NARRATIVEOF THEVOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, PERFORMED BYCAPTAIN JAMES COOK. WITH ANACCOUNT OF HIS LIFEDURING THE PREVIOUS AND INTERVENING PERIODS. BY A. KIPPIS, D. D. , F. R. S. , & S. A. TO THE KING. SIR, I esteem myself highly honoured in being permitted to dedicate andpresent my Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain James Cook toyour Majesty. It was owing to your Majesty's royal patronage andbounty, that this illustrious navigator was enabled to execute thosevast undertakings, and to make those extraordinary discoveries, whichhave contributed so much to the reputation of the British empire, andhave reflected such peculiar glory on your Majesty's reign. Withoutyour Majesty's munificence and encouragement, the world would haveremained destitute of that immense light which has been thrown ongeography, navigation, and the most important sciences. To yourMajesty, therefore, a work like the present is with particularpropriety addressed. It is impossible, on this occasion, to avoid extending my thoughts tothe other noble instances in which your Majesty's liberal protectionof science and literature has been displayed. Your Majesty began yourreign in a career so glorious to princes: and wonderful has been theincrease of knowledge and taste in this country. The improvements inphilosophical science, and particularly in astronomy; the exertions ofexperimental and chemical inquiry, the advancement of natural history, the progress and perfection of the polite arts, and the valuablecompositions that have been produced in every department of learning, have corresponded with your Majesty's gracious wishes andencouragement, and have rendered the name of Britain famous in everyquarter of the globe. If there be any persons who, in these respects, would depreciate the present times, in comparison with those whichhave preceded them, it may safely be asserted, that such persons havenot duly attended to the history of literature. The course of mystudies has enabled me to speak with some confidence on the subject;and to say, that your majesty's reign is eminently distinguished byone of the greatest glories that can belong to a monarch. Knowledge and virtue constitute the chief happiness of a nation: andit is devoutly to be wished that the virtue of this country were equalto its knowledge. If it be not so, this does not arise from the wantof an illustrious example in the person of your Majesty, and that ofyour royal Consort. The pattern which is set by the King and Queen ofGreat Britain, of those qualities which are the truest ornaments andfelicities of life, affords a strong incitement to the imitation ofthe same excellencies; and cannot fail of contributing to the moreextensive prevalence of that moral conduct on which the welfare ofsociety so greatly depends. That your Majesty may possess every felicity in your royal Person andFamily, and enjoy a long and prosperous reign, over an enlightened, afree, and a happy people, is the sincere and ardent prayer of, SIR, Your Majesty's most faithful, and most obedient, subject and servant, ANDREW KIPPIS. London, _June_ 31, 1788. PREFACE. Although I have often appeared before the public as a writer, I neverdid it with so much diffidence and anxiety as on the present occasion. This arises from the peculiar nature of the work in which I have nowengaged. A Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain Cook mustprincipally consist of the voyages and discoveries he made, and thedifficulties and dangers to which he was exposed. The privateincidents concerning him, though collected with the utmost diligence, can never compare, either in number or importance, with his publictransactions. His public transactions are the things that mark theman, that display his mind and his character; and, therefore they arethe grand objects to which the attention of his biographer must bedirected. However, the right conduct of this business is a point of nosmall difficulty and embarrassment. The question will frequentlyarise, How far the detail should be extended? There is a danger, onthe one hand, of being carried to an undue length, and of enlarging, more than is needful, on facts which may be thought alreadysufficiently known; and, on the other hand, of giving such a jejuneaccount, and such a slight enumeration of important events, as shalldisappoint the wishes and expectations of the reader. Of the twoextremes, the last seems to be that which should most be avoided; for, unless what Captain Cook performed, and what he encountered, berelated somewhat at large, his Life and Actions would be imperfectlyrepresented to the world. The proper medium appears to be, to bringforward the things in which he was personally concerned, and to passslightly over other matters. Even here it is scarcely possible, norwould it be desirable, to avoid the introduction of some of the moststriking circumstances which relate to the new countries andinhabitants that were visited by our great navigator, since theseconstitute a part of the knowledge and benefit derived from hisundertakings. Whether I have been so happy as to preserve the duemedium, I presume not to determine. I have been anxious to do it, without always being able fully to satisfy my own mind that I havesucceeded; on which account I shall not be surprised if differentopinions should be formed on the subject. In that case, all that I canoffer in my own defence will be, that I have acted to the best of myjudgment. At any rate I flatter myself with the hope of havingpresented to the public a work not wholly uninteresting orunentertaining. Those who are best acquainted with Captain Cook'sexpeditions, may be pleased with reviewing them in a more compendiousform, and with having his actions placed in a closer point of view, inconsequence of their being divested of the minute nautical, and otherdetails, which were essentially necessary in the voyages at large. Asto those persons, if there be any, who have hitherto obtained but animperfect knowledge of what was done and discovered by thisillustrious man, they will not be offended with the length of thefollowing narrative. In various respects, new information will be found in the presentperformance; and other things, which were less perfectly known before, are set in a clearer and fuller light. This, I trust, will appear inthe first, third, fifth, and seventh chapters. It may be observed, likewise, that the fresh matter now communicated is of the mostauthentic kind, and derived from the most respectable sources. Myobligations of this nature are, indeed, very great, and call for mywarmest gratitude. The dates and facts relative to Captain Cook'sdifferent promotions are taken from the books of the Admiralty, by thedirections of the noble lord who is at the head of that Board, and thefavour of Mr. Stephens. I embrace with pleasure this opportunity ofmentioning, that, in the course of my life, I have experienced, inseveral instances, Lord Howe's condescending and favourable attention. To Mr. Stephens I am indebted for other communications besides thosewhich concern the times of Captain Cook's preferments, and for hisgeneral readiness in forwarding the design of the present work. TheEarl of Sandwich, the great patron of our navigator, and the principalmover in his mighty undertakings, has honoured me with some importantinformation concerning him, especially with regard to thecircumstances which preceded his last voyage. To Sir Hugh Palliser'szeal for the memory of his friend I stand particularly obliged. From alarge communication, with which he was so good as to favour me, I havederived very material intelligence, as will appear in the course ofthe narrative, and especially in the first chapter. In the samechapter are some facts which I received from Admiral Graves, throughthe hands of the Rev. Dr. Douglas, now Bishop of Carlisle (whoseadmirable Introduction to the Voyage to the Pacific Ocean must be ofthe most essential service to every writer of the Life of CaptainCook). The Captain's amiable and worthy Widow, who is held in justesteem by all his friends, has given me an account of several domesticcircumstances. I should be deficient in gratitude, were I here to omitthe name of Mr. Samwell: for though what is inserted from him in thiswork has already been laid before the public, it should be remembered, that through the interposition of our common friend, the Rev. Mr. Gregory, it was originally written for my use, and freely consigned tomy disposal; and that it was at my particular instance and requestthat it was separately printed. My obligations to other gentlemen willbe mentioned in their proper places. But my acknowledgments are, above all, due to Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society, for the interest he has taken in thepresent publication. It was in consequence of his advice, that it wasgiven to the world in the form which it now bears; and his assistancehas been invariable through every part of the undertaking. To him theinspection of the whole has been submitted and to him it is owing, that the work is, in many respects, far more complete than it wouldotherwise have been. The exertions of zeal and friendship, I have beenso happy as to experience from him in writing the account of CaptainCook, have corresponded with that ardour which Sir Joseph Banks isalways ready to display in promoting whatever he judges to besubservient to the cause of science and literature. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Account of Captain Cook previous to his first Voyage roundthe World CHAP. II. Narrative of Captain Cook's first Voyage round the World inthe years 1768, 1769, 1770, and 1771 CHAP. III. Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his firstand second Voyage CHAP. IV. Narrative of Captain Cook's second Voyage round the World inthe years 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775 CHAP. V. Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his secondand third Voyage CHAP. VI. Narrative of Captain Cook's third Voyage in the years 1776, 1777, 1778, and 1779, to the Period of his Death CHAP. VII. Character of Captain Cook. --Effects of hisVoyages. --Testimonies of Applause. --Commemorations of hisServices. --Regard paid to his Family. --Conclusion APPENDIX COOK'S VOYAGES. CHAPTER I. Account of Captain Cook, previous to his first Voyage round the World. Captain James Cook had no claim to distinction on account of thelustre of his birth, or the dignity of his ancestors. His father, James Cook, who from his dialect is supposed to have been aNorthumbrian, was in the humble station of a servant in husbandry, andmarried a woman of the same rank with himself, whose Christian namewas Grace. Both of them were noted in their neighbourhood for theirhonesty, sobriety, and diligence. They first lived at a village calledMorton, and then removed to Marton, another village in theNorth-riding of Yorkshire, situated in the high road from Gisborough, in Cleveland, to Stockton upon Tees, in the county of Durham, at thedistance of six miles from each of these towns. At Morton, CaptainCook was born, on the 27th of October, 1728;[1] and, agreeably to thecustom of the vicar of the parish, whose practice it was to baptizeinfants soon after their birth, he was baptized on the 3rd of Novemberfollowing. He was one of nine children, all of whom are now dead, excepting a daughter, who married a fisherman at Redcar. The firstrudiments of young Cook's education were received by him at Marton, where he was taught to read by dame Walker, the schoolmistress of thevillage. When he was eight years of age, his father, in consequence ofthe character he had obtained for industry, frugality, and skill inhusbandry, had a little promotion bestowed upon him, which was that ofbeing appointed head-servant, or hind, [2] to a farm belonging to thelate Thomas Skottow, Esq. Called Airy Holme, near Great Ayton. To thisplace, therefore, he removed with his family;[3] and his son James, atMr. Skottow's expense, was put to a day-school in Ayton, where he wasinstructed in writing, and in a few of the first rules of arithmetic. [Footnote 1: The mud house in which Captain Cook drew his first breath is pulled down, and no vestiges of it are now remaining. ] [Footnote 2: This is the name which, in that part of the country, is given to the head-servant, or bailiff, of a farm. ] [Footnote 3: Mr. Cook, senior, spent the close of his life with his daughter, at Redcar, and is supposed to have been about eighty-five years of age when he died. ] Before he was thirteen years of age, he was bound an apprentice to Mr. William Sanderson, a haberdasher, or shopkeeper, at Straiths, aconsiderable fishing town, about ten miles north of Whitby. Thisemployment, however, was very unsuitable to young Cook's disposition. The sea was the object of his inclination; and his passion for itcould not avoid being strengthened by the situation of the town inwhich he was placed, and the manner of life of the persons with whomhe must frequently converse. Some disagreement having happened betweenhim and his master, he obtained his discharge, and soon after boundhimself for seven years to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, of Whitby, Quakers by religious profession, and principal owners of the shipFreelove, and of another vessel, both of which were constantlyemployed in the coal trade. The greatest part of his apprenticeshipwas spent on board the Freelove. After he was out of his time, hecontinued to serve in the coal and other branches of trade (thoughchiefly in the former) in the capacity of a common sailor; till, atlength, he was raised to be mate of one of Mr. John Walker's ships. During this period it is not recollected that he exhibited anythingvery peculiar, either in his abilities or his conduct; though therecan be no doubt but that he had gained a considerable degree ofknowledge in the practical part of navigation, and that his attentiveand sagacious mind was laying up a store of observations, which wouldbe useful to him in future life. In the spring of the year 1755, when hostilities broke out betweenEngland and France, and there was a hot press for seamen, Mr. Cookhappened to be in the river Thames with the ship to which he belonged. At first he concealed himself, to avoid being pressed; but reflecting, that it might be difficult, notwithstanding all his vigilance, toelude discovery or escape pursuit, he determined, upon fartherconsideration, to enter voluntarily into his majesty's service, and totake his future fortune in the royal navy. Perhaps he had some presagein his own mind, that by his activity and exertions he might riseconsiderably above his present situation. Accordingly, he went to arendezvous at Wapping, and entered with an officer of the Eagle man ofwar, a ship of sixty guns, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer. Tothis ship Captain (afterward Sir Hugh) Palliser was appointed, in themonth of October, 1755; and when he took the command, found in herJames Cook, whom he soon distinguished to be an able, active, anddiligent seaman. All the officers spoke highly in his favour, and theCaptain was so well pleased with his behaviour, that he gave him everyencouragement which lay in his power. In the course of some time, Captain Palliser received a letter fromMr. Osbaldeston, then member of Parliament for Scarborough, acquainting him that several neighbours of his had solicited him towrite in favour of one Cook, on board the captain's ship. They hadheard that Captain Palliser had taken notice of him, and theyrequested, if he thought Cook deserving of it, that he would point outin what manner Mr. Osbaldeston might best contribute his assistancetowards forwarding the young man's promotion. The captain, in hisreply, did justice to Cook's merit; but, as he had been only a shorttime in the navy, informed Mr. Osbaldeston that he could not bepromoted as a commission officer. A master's warrant, Captain Palliseradded, might perhaps be procured for Mr. Cook, by which he would beraised to a station that he was well qualified to discharge withability and credit. Such a warrant he obtained on the 10th of May, 1759, for the Grampussloop; but the proper master having unexpectedly returned to her, theappointment did not take place. Four days after he was made master ofthe Garland; when, upon inquiry, it was found, that he could not joinher, as the ship had already sailed. On the next day, the 15th of May, he was appointed to the Mercury. These quick and successiveappointments shew that his interest was strong, and that the intentionto serve him was real and effectual. The destination of the Mercury was to North America, where she joinedthe fleet under the command of Sir Charles Saunders, which, inconjunction with the land forces under General Wolfe, was engaged inthe famous siege of Quebec. During that siege, a difficult anddangerous service was necessary to be performed. This was to take thesoundings in the channel of the river St. Lawrence, between the islandof Orleans and the north shore, directly in the front of the Frenchfortified camp at Montmorency and Beauport, in order to enable theadmiral to place ships against the enemy's batteries, and to cover ourarmy on a general attack, which the heroic Wolfe intended to make onthe camp. Captain Palliser, in consequence of his acquaintance withMr. Cook's sagacity and resolution, recommended him to the service;and he performed it in the most complete manner. In this business hewas employed during the night-time, for several nights together. Atlength he was discovered by the enemy, who collected a great number ofIndians and canoes, in a wood near the waterside, which were launchedin the night, for the purpose of surrounding him, and cutting him off. On this occasion, he had a very narrow escape. He was obliged to runfor it, and pushed on shore on the island of Orleans, near the guardof the English hospital. Some of the Indians entered at the stern ofthe boat, as Mr. Cook leaped out at the bow; and the boat, which was abarge belonging to one of the ships of war, was carried away intriumph. However, he furnished the admiral with as correct andcomplete a draught of the channel and soundings as could have beenmade after our countrymen were in possession of Quebec. Sir HughPalliser had good reason to believe, that before this time Mr. Cookhad scarcely ever used a pencil, and that he knew nothing of drawing. But such was his capacity, that he speedily made himself master ofevery object to which he applied his attention. Another important service was performed by Mr. Cook while the fleetcontinued in the river of St. Lawrence. The navigation of that riveris exceedingly difficult and hazardous. It was particularly so to theEnglish, who were then in a great measure strangers to this part ofNorth America, and who had no chart, on the correctness of which theycould depend. It was therefore ordered by the admiral, that Mr. Cookshould be employed to survey those parts of the river, below Quebec, which navigators had experienced to be attended with peculiardifficulty and danger; and he executed the business with the samediligence and skill of which he had already afforded so happy aspecimen. When he had finished the undertaking, his chart of the riverSt. Lawrence was published, with soundings, and directions for sailingin that river. Of the accuracy and utility of this chart, it issufficient to say, that it hath never since been found necessary topublish any other. One, which has appeared in France, is only a copyof our author's, on a reduced scale. After the expedition at Quebec, Mr. Cook, by warrant from LordColvill, was appointed, on the 22d of September, 1759, master of theNorthumberland man of war, the ship in which his lordship staid, inthe following winter, as commodore, with the command of a squadron atHalifax. In this station, Mr. Cook's behaviour did not fail to gainhim the esteem and friendship of his commander. During the leisure, which the season of winter afforded him, he employed his time in theacquisition of such knowledge as eminently qualified him for futureservice. It was at Halifax that he first read Euclid, and appliedhimself to the study of astronomy and other branches of science. Thebooks of which he had the assistance were few in number: but hisindustry enabled him to supply many defects, and to make a progressfar superior to what could be expected from the advantages he enjoyed. While Mr. Cook was master of the Northumberland under Lord Colvill, that ship came to Newfoundland in September, 1762, to assist in therecapture of the island from the French, by the forces under thecommand of Lieutenant-colonel Amherst. When the island was recovered, the English fleet staid some days at Placentia, in order to put it ina more complete state of defence. During this time Mr. Cook manifesteda diligence in surveying the harbour and heights of the place, whicharrested the notice of Captain (now Admiral) Graves, commander of theAntelope, and governor of Newfoundland. The governor was hence inducedto ask Cook a variety of questions, from the answers to which he wasled to entertain a very favourable opinion of his abilities. Thisopinion was increased, the more he saw of Mr. Cook's conduct; who, wherever they went, continued to display the most unremittingattention to every object that related to the knowledge of the coast, and was calculated to facilitate the practice of navigation. Theesteem which Captain Graves had conceived for him was confirmed by thetestimonies to his character, that were given by all the officersunder whom he served. In the latter end of 1762, Mr. Cook returned to England; and, on the21st of December, in the same year married, at Barking in Essex, MissElizabeth Batts, an amiable and deserving woman, who was justlyentitled to and enjoyed his tenderest regard and affection. But hisstation in life, and the high duties to which he was called, did notpermit him to partake of matrimonial felicity, without many and verylong interruptions. Early in the year 1763, after the peace with France and Spain wasconcluded, it was determined that Captain Graves should go out again, as governor of Newfoundland As the country was very valuable in acommercial view, and had been an object of great contention betweenthe English and the French, the captain obtained an establishment forthe survey of its coasts; which, however, he procured with somedifficulty, because the matter was not sufficiently understood bygovernment at home. In considering the execution of the plan, Mr. Cookappeared to Captain Graves to be a proper person for the purpose; andproposals were made to him, to which, notwithstanding his recentmarriage, he readily and prudently acceded. Accordingly, he went outwith the Captain as surveyor; and was first employed to surveyMiquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded by the treaty to theFrench, who, by order of administration, were to take possession ofthem at a certain period, even though the English commander should nothappen to be arrived in the country. When Captain Graves had reachedthat part of the world, he found there the governor who had been sentfrom France (Mons. D'Anjac), with all the settlers and his own family, on board a frigate and some transports. It was contrived, however, tokeep them in that disagreeable situation for a whole month, which wasthe time taken by Mr. Cook to complete his survey. When the businesswas finished, the French were put into possession of the two islands, and left in the quiet enjoyment of them, with every profession ofcivility. At the end of the season, Mr. Cook returned to England, but did notlong continue at home. In the beginning of the year 1764, his old andconstant friend and patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, was appointed governorand commodore of Newfoundland and Labradore; upon which occasion hewas glad to take Mr. Cook with him, in the same capacity that he hadsustained under Captain Graves. Indeed, no man could have been foundwho was better qualified for finishing the design which had been begunin the preceding year. The charts of the coasts, in that part of NorthAmerica were very erroneous; and it was highly necessary to the tradeand navigation of his majesty's subjects, that new ones should beformed, which would be more correct and useful. Accordingly, under theorders of Commodore Palliser, Mr. Cook was appointed on the 18th ofApril, 1764, marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labradore; and he hada vessel, the Grenville schooner, to attend him for that purpose. Howwell he executed his commission is known to every man acquainted withnavigation. The charts which he afterward published of the differentsurveys he had made, reflected great credit on his abilities andcharacter, and the utility of them is universally acknowledged. It isunderstood, that, so far as Newfoundland is concerned they were ofconsiderable service to the king's ministers, in settling the terms ofthe last peace. Mr. Cook explored the inland parts of this island in amuch completer manner than had ever been done before. By penetratingfurther into the middle of the country than any man had hithertoattempted, he discovered several large lakes, which are indicated uponthe general chart. In these services Mr. Cook appears to have beenemployed, with the intervals of occasionally returning to England forthe winter season, till the year 1767, which was the last time that hewent out upon his station of marine surveyor of Newfoundland. It mustnot be omitted, that, while he occupied this post, he had anopportunity of exhibiting to the Royal Society a proof of his progressin the study of astronomy. A short paper was written by him, andinserted in the fifty-seventh volume of the PhilosophicalTransactions, entitled, 'An Observation of an Eclipse of the Sun atthe Island of Newfoundland, August 5, 1766, with the Longitude of theplace of Observation deduced from it. ' The observation was made at oneof the Burgeo islands, near Cape Ray, in latitude 47° 36' 19", on thesouth-west extremity of Newfoundland. Mr. Cook's paper having beencommunicated by Dr. Bevis to Mr. Witchell, the latter gentlemancompared it with an observation at Oxford, by the Rev. Mr. Hornsby, onthe same eclipse, and thence computed the difference of longituderespecting the places of observation, making due allowance for theeffect of parallax, and the prolate spheroidal figure of the earth. Itappears from the Transactions that our navigator had already obtainedthe character of being an able mathematician. CHAPTER II. Narrative of Captain Cook's first voyage round the world. There is scarcely any thing from which the natural curiosity of manreceives a higher gratification, than from the accounts of distantcountries and nations. Nor is it curiosity only that is gratified bysuch accounts; for the sphere of human knowledge is hereby enlarged, and various objects are brought into view, an acquaintance with whichgreatly contributes to the improvement of life and the benefit of theworld. With regard to information of this kind, the moderns haveeminently the advantage over the ancients. The ancients could neitherpursue their enquiries with the same accuracy, nor carry them on tothe same extent. Travelling by land was much more inconvenient anddangerous than it hath been in later times; and, as navigation wasprincipally confined to coasting, it must necessarily have beencircumscribed within very narrow limits. The invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent and enterprisingspirit of several able men, was followed by wonderful discoveries. Vasco di Gama doubled the Cape of Good Hope; and a new way being thusfound out to the East Indies, the countries to that part of the earthbecame more accurately and extensively known. Another world wasdiscovered by Columbus; and, at length, Magalhaens accomplished thearduous and hitherto unattempted task of sailing round the globe. Atdifferent periods he was succeeded by other circumnavigators, of whomit is no part of the present narrative to give an account. The spirit of discovery, which was so vigorous during the latter endof the fifteenth and through the whole of the sixteenth century, began, soon after the commencement of the seventeenth century, todecline. Great navigations were only occasionally undertaken, and morefrom the immediate views of avarice or war, than from any noble andgenerous principles. But of late years they have been revived, withthe enlarged and benevolent design of promoting the happiness of thehuman species. A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of George the Second, during which two voyages were performed; the first under the commandof Captain Middleton, and the next under the direction of CaptainsSmith and More, in order to discover a northwest passage throughHudson's Bay. It was reserved, however, for the glory of the presentreign to carry the spirit of discovery to its height, and to conductit on the noblest principles; not for the purposes of covetuousness orambition; not to plunder or destroy the inhabitants of newly-exploredcountries; but to improve their condition, to instruct them in thearts of life, and to extend the boundaries of science. No sooner was peace restored, in 1763, than these laudable designsengaged his majesty's patronage; and two voyages round the world hadbeen undertaken before Mr. Cook set out on his first command. Theconductors of these voyages were the Captains Byron, Wallis, andCarteret, [4] by whom several discoveries were made, which contributed, in no small degree, to increase the knowledge of geography andnavigation. Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent outappears to have had a principal reference to a particular object inthe South Atlantic, the direct track they were obliged to hold, ontheir way homeward by the East Indies, prevented them from doing somuch as might otherwise have been expected towards giving the world acomplete view of that immense expanse of ocean, which the SouthPacific comprehends. [Footnote 4: The Captains Wallis and Carteret went out together upon the same expedition; but the vessels they commanded having accidentally parted company, they proceeded and returned by a different route. Hence their voyages are distinctly related by Dr. Hawkesworth. ] Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had returned to GreatBritain, another voyage was resolved upon, for which the improvementof astronomical science afforded the immediate occasion. It havingbeen calculated by astronomers, that a transit of Venus over the Sun'sdisk would happen in 1769, it was judged that the best place forobserving it would be in some part of the South Sea, either at theMarquesas, or at one of those islands which Tasman had calledAmsterdam; Rotterdam, and Middleburg, and which are now better knownunder the appellation of the Friendly Islands. This being a matter ofeminent consequence in astronomy, and which excited the attention offoreign nations as well as of our own, the affair was taken up by theRoyal Society, with the zeal which has always been displayed by thatlearned body for the advancement of every branch of philosophicalscience. Accordingly, a long memorial was addressed to his majesty, dated February the 15th, 1768, representing the great importance ofthe object, together with the regard which had been paid to it by theprincipal courts of Europe; and entreating, among other things that avessel might be ordered, at the expense of government, for theconveyance of suitable persons, to make the observation of the transitof Venus, at one of the places before mentioned. This memorial havingbeen laid before the king by the Earl of Shelburne (now the Marquessof Lansdown), one of the principal secretaries of state; his majestygraciously signified his pleasure to the lords commissioners of theAdmiralty, that they should provide a ship for carrying over suchobservers as the Royal Society should judge proper to send to theSouth Seas; and, on the 3rd of April, Mr. Stephens informed thesociety that a bark had been taken up for tire purpose. The gentlemen who had originally been fixed upon to take the directionof the expedition, was Alexander Dalrymple, Esq. An eminent member ofthe Royal Society, and who, besides possessing an accurate knowledgeof astronomy, had distinguished himself by his inquiries into thegeography of the Southern Oceans, and by the collection he hadpublished of several voyages to those parts of the world. Mr. Dalrymple being sensible of the difficulty, or rather of theimpossibility, of carrying a ship through unknown seas, the crew ofwhich were not subject to the military discipline of his majesty'snavy, he made it the condition of his going, that he should have abrevet commission, as captain of the vessel, in the same manner assuch a commission had been granted to Dr. Halley, in his voyage ofdiscovery. To this demand Sir Edward Hawke, who was then at the headof the Admiralty, and who possessed more of the spirit of hisprofession than either of education or science, absolutely refused toaccede. He said, at the board, that his conscience would not allow himto trust any ship of his majesty's to a person who had not regularlybeen bred a seaman. On being further pressed upon the subject, SirEdward declared, that he would suffer his right hand to be cut offbefore he would sign any such commission. In this he was, in somedegree, justified by the mutinous behaviour of Halley's crew, whorefused to acknowledge the legal authority of their commander, andinvolved him in a dispute which was attended with perniciousconsequences. Mr. Dalrymple, on the other hand, was equally steady inrequiring a compliance with the terms he had proposed. Such was thestate of things, when Mr. Stephens, secretary to the Admiralty, whosediscrimination of the numerous characters, with which by his stationhe is conversant, reflects as much credit on his understanding, as hisupright and able conduct does on the office he has filled for so manyyears, and under so many administrations, with honour to himself andadvantage to the public, observed to the board, that since Sir EdwardHawke and Mr. Dalrymple were equally inflexible, no method remainedbut that of finding out another person capable of the service. Heknew, he said, a Mr. Cook, who had been employed as marine surveyor ofNewfoundland, who had been regularly educated in the navy, in which hewas a master, and whom he judged to be fully qualified for thedirection of the present undertaking. Mr. Stephens, at the same time, recommended it to the board, to take the opinion of Sir Hugh Palliser, who had lately been governor of Newfoundland, and was intimatelyacquainted with Cook's character. Sir Hugh rejoiced in the opportunityof serving his friend. He strengthened Mr. Stephen's recommendation tothe utmost of his power; and added many things in Mr. Cook's favour, arising from the particular knowledge which he had of his abilitiesand merit. Accordingly, Mr. Cook was appointed to the command of theexpedition by the lords of the Admiralty; and, on this occasion, hewas promoted to the rank of a lieutenant in the royal navy, hiscommission bearing date on the 25th of May, 1768. When the appointment had taken place, the first object was to providea vessel adapted to the purposes of the voyage. This business wascommitted to Sir Hugh Palliser; who took Lieutenant Cook to hisassistance, and they examined together a great number of the shipswhich then lay in the river Thames. At length they fixed upon one, ofthree hundred and seventy tons, to which was given the name of theEndeavour. While preparations were making for Lieutenant Cook's expedition, Captain Wallis returned from his voyage round the world. The Earl ofMorton, president of the Royal Society, had recommended it to thisgentleman, on his going out, to fix upon a proper place for observingthe transit of Venus. He kept, accordingly, the object in view: andhaving discovered, in the course of his enterprise, an island calledby him George's Island, but which has since been found to bear thename of Otaheite, he judged that Port Royal harbour in this islandwould afford an eligible situation for the purpose. Having, immediately on his return to England, signified his opinion to theEarl of Morton, the captain's idea was adopted by the society, and ananswer conformable to it was sent to the commissioners of theAdmiralty, who had applied for directions to what place the observers, should be sent. Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr. Bradley at the royal observatory at Greenwich, was united byLieutenant Cook in conducting the astronomical part of the voyage;and, soon after their appointment, they received ample instructions, from the council of the Royal Society, with regard to the method ofcarrying on their inquiries. The lieutenant was also accompanied byJoseph Banks, Esq. (now Sir Joseph Banks, Bart. ) and Dr. Solander, who, in the prime of life, and the first of them at great expense tohimself, quitted all the gratifications of polished society, andengaged in a very tedious, fatiguing, and hazardous navigation, withthe laudable views of acquiring knowledge in general, of promotingnatural knowledge in particular, and of contributing something to theimprovement and the happiness of the rude inhabitants of the earth. Though it was the principal, it was not the sole object of LieutenantCook's voyage to observe the transit of Venus. A more accurateexamination of the Pacific Ocean was committed to him, although insubserviency to his main design; and, when his chief business wasaccomplished, he was directed to proceed in making farther discoveriesin the great Southern Seas. The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship consisted of eighty-fourpersons besides the commander. Her victualling was for eighteenmonths; and there was put on board of her ten carriage and ten swivelguns, together with an ample store of ammunition and othernecessaries. On the 25th of May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was appointed, by the lordsof the Admiralty, to the command of the Endeavour, in consequence ofwhich he went on board on the 27th, and took charge of the ship. Shethen lay in the bason in Deptford-yard, where she continued to lietill she was completely fitted for sea. On the 30th of July she saileddown the river, and on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound. The wind becoming fair on the 26th of that month, our navigators gotunder sail, and on the 13th of September anchored in Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. While Lieutenant Cook and his company were in this island, they weretreated with the utmost kindness and liberality by Mr. Cheap, theEnglish consul there, and one of the most considerable merchants inthe town of Funchiale. He insisted upon their taking possession of hishouse, and furnished them with every possible accommodation duringtheir stay at Madeira. They received, likewise, great marks ofattention and civility from Dr. Thomas Heberden, the principalphysician of the island, and brother to the excellent and learned Dr. William Heberden of London. Dr. Thomas Heberden afforded all theassistance in his power to Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander in theirbotanical inquiries. It was not solely from the English that the lieutenant and his friendsexperienced a kind reception. The fathers of the Franciscan conventdisplayed a liberality of sentiment towards them, which might not havebeen expected from Portuguese friars; and, in a visit which they paidto a convent of nuns, the ladies expressed a particular pleasure atseeing them. At this visit the good nuns gave an amusing proof of theprogress they had made to the cultivation of their understandings. Having heard that there were great philosophers among the Englishgentlemen, they asked them a variety of questions; one of which was, when it would thunder; and another, whether a spring of fresh water, which was much wanted, was any where to be found within the walls ofthe convent. Eminent as our philosophers were, they were puzzled bythese questions. Lieutenant Cook, having laid in a fresh stock of beef, water, andwine, set sail from the island of Madeira, in the night of the 18th ofSeptember, and proceeded on his voyage. By the 7th of November severalarticles of the ship's provisions began to fall short; for whichreason, the lieutenant determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. Thisplace he preferred to any other port in Brazil or to Falkland'sIslands, because he could there be better supplied with what hewanted, and had no doubt of meeting with a friendly reception. During the run between Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook andthe gentlemen in the Endeavour had an opportunity of determining aphilosophical question. On the evening of the 29th of October, theyobserved that luminous appearance of the sea which has so often beenmentioned by navigators, and which has been ascribed to such a varietyof causes. Flashes of light appeared to be emitted, exactly resemblingthose of lightning, though without being so considerable; and such wasthe frequency of them, that sometimes eight or ten were visible almostat the same moment. It was the opinion of Mr. Cook and the othergentlemen, that these flashes proceeded from some luminous animal; andtheir opinion was confirmed by experiment. At Rio de Janeiro, in the port of which Lieutenant Cook came to ananchor on the 13th of November, he did not meet with the politereception that, perhaps, he had too sanguinely expected. His stay wasspent in continual altercations, with the viceroy, who appeared not alittle jealous of the designs of the English: nor were all theattempts of the lieutenant to set the matter right, capable ofproducing any effect. The viceroy was by no means distinguished eitherby his knowledge or his love of science; and the grand object of Mr. Cook's expedition was quite beyond his comprehension. When he was toldthat the English were bound to the southward, by the order of hisBritannic majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over theSun, an astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navigation, hecould form no other conception of the matter, than that it was thepassing of the North star through the South Pole. During the whole of the contest with the viceroy, Lieutenant Cookbehaved with equal spirit and discretion. A supply of water and othernecessaries could not be refused him, and those were gotten on boardby the 1st of December. On that day the lieutenant sent to the viceroyfor a pilot to carry the Endeavour to sea; but the wind preventing theship from getting out, she was obliged to continue some time longer inthe harbour. A Spanish packet having arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the2d of December, with dispatches from Buenos Ayres for Spain, thecommander, Don Antonio de Monte Negro y Velasco, offered, with greatpoliteness, to convey the letters of the English to Europe. Thisfavour Lieutenant Cook accepted, and gave Don Antonio a packet for thesecretary of the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers thathad passed between himself and the Viceroy. He left, also, duplicateswith the viceroy, that he might forward them, if he thought proper, toLisbon. On the 5th of December, it being a dead calm, our navigators weighedanchor, and towed down the Bay; but, to their great astonishment, twoshots were fired at them; when they had gotten abreast of Santa Cruz, the principal fortification of the harbour. Lieutenant Cookimmediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to demand, the reason ofthis conduct; the answer to which was, that the commandant hadreceived no order from the viceroy to let the ship pass; and that, without such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go below thefort. It now became necessary to send to the viceroy, to inquire whythe order had not been given; and his behaviour appeared the moreextraordinary, as notice had been transmitted to him of the departureof the English, and he had thought proper to write a polite letter toMr. Cook, wishing him a good voyage. The lieutenant's messenger soonreturned, with the information that the order had been written severaldays, and that its not having been sent had arisen from someunaccountable negligence. It was not till the 7th of December that theEndeavour got under sail. In the account which Lieutenant Cook has given of Rio de Janeiro, andthe country round it, one circumstance is recorded, which cannot beotherwise than very painful to humanity. It is the horrid expense oflife at which the gold mines are wrought. No less than forty thousandNegroes are annually imported for this purpose, on the king ofPortugal's account; and the English were credibly informed, that, inthe year 1766, this number fell so short, that twenty thousand morewere drafted from the town of Rio. From Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook pursued his voyage, and, on the14th of January, 1769, entered the Strait of Le Maire, at which timethe tide drove the ship out with so much violence, and raised such asea off Cape St. Diego, that she frequently pitched, so that thebowsprit was under water. On the next day, the lieutenant anchored, first before a small cove, which was understood to be Port Maurice, and afterward in the Bay of Good Success. While the Endeavour was inthis station, happened the memorable adventure of Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer, together with their attendants and servants, and two seamen, inascending a mountain to search for plants. In this expedition theywere all of them exposed to the utmost extremity of danger and ofcold; Dr. Solander was seized with a torpor which had nearly provedfatal to his life; and two black servants actually died. When thegentlemen had, at length, on the second day of their adventure, gottenback to the ship, they congratulated each other on their safety, witha joy that can only be felt by those who have experienced equalperils; and Mr. Cook was relieved from a very painful anxiety. It wasa dreadful testimony of the severity of the climate, that this eventtook place when it was the midst of summer in that part of the world, and at the close of a day, the beginning of which was as mild andwarm, as the month of May usually is in England. In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieutenant Cook and hisingenious associates had an opportunity of gaining a considerabledegree of acquaintance with the inhabitants of the adjoining country. Here it was that they saw human nature to its lowest form. The nativesappeared to be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the moststupid, of the children of men. Their lives are spent in wanderingabout the dreary wastes that surround them; and their dwellings are noother than wretched hovels of sticks and grass, which not only admitthe wind, but the snow and the rain. They are almost naked, and sodevoid are they of every convenience which is furnished by the rudestart, that they have not so much as an implement to dress their food. Nevertheless, they seemed to have no wish for acquiring more than theypossessed; nor did any thing that was offered them by the Englishappear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. Aconclusion is hence drawn by Dr. Hawkesworth, that these people may beupon a level with ourselves, in respect to the happiness they enjoy. This, however, is a position which ought not hastily to be admitted. It is, indeed, a beautiful circumstance, in the order of DivineProvidence, that the rudest inhabitants of the earth, and those whoare situated in the most unfavourable climates, should not be sensibleof their disadvantages. But still it must be allowed, that theirhappiness is greatly inferior, both in kind and degree, to thatintellectual, social, and moral felicity, which is capable of beingattained in a highly cultivated state of society. In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the determination of the bestpassage from the Atlantic is a point of peculiar importance. It iswell known what prodigious difficulties were experienced in thisrespect by former navigators. The doubling of Cape Horn, inparticular, was so much dreaded, that, to the general opinion, it wasfar more eligible to pass through the Strait of Magalhaens. LieutenantCook hath fully ascertained the erroneousness of this opinion. He wasbut three-and-thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego, from the east entrance of the Strait of Le Maire, till he had advancedabout twelve degrees to the westward, and three and a half to thenorthward of the Strait of Magalhaens; and, during this time, the shipscarcely received any damage. Whereas, if he had come into the PacificOcean by that passage, he would not have been able to accomplish it inless than three months; besides which, his people would have beenfatigued, and the anchors, cables, sails, and rigging of the vesselmuch injured. By the course he pursued, none of these inconvenienceswere suffered. In short, Lieutenant Cook, by his own example indoubling Cape Horn, by his accurate ascertainment of the latitude andlongitude of the places he came to, and by his instructions to futurevoyagers, performed the most essential services to this part ofnavigation. It was on the 26th of January that the Endeavour took herdeparture from Cape Horn; and it appeared; that, from that time to the1st of March, during a run of six hundred and sixty leagues, there wasno current which affected the ship. Hence it was highly probable thatour navigators had been near no land of any considerable extent, currents being always found when land is not remote. In the prosecution of Lieutenant Cook's voyage from Cape Horn toOtaheite, several islands were discovered, to which the names weregiven of Lagoon Island, Thrump-cap, Bow Island, The Groups, BirdIsland, and Chain Island. It appeared that most of these islands wereinhabited; and the verdure, and groves of palm-trees, which werevisible upon some of them, gave them the aspect of a terrestrialparadise to men who, excepting the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, had seen nothing for a long time but sky and water. On the 11th of April, the Endeavour arrived in sight of Otaheite, andon the 13th she came to an anchor in Port Royal Bay, which is calledMATAVIA by the natives. As the stay of the English in the island wasnot likely to be very short, and much depended on the manner in whichtraffic should be carried on with the inhabitants, Lieutenant Cook, with great good sense and humanity, drew up a set of regulations forthe behaviour of his people, and gave it in command that they shouldpunctually be observed. [5] [Footnote 5: The rules were as follow: '1. To endeavour, by every fair means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives: and to treat them with all imaginable humanity. 2. A proper person or persons will be appointed to trade with the natives for all manner of provisions, fruit, and other productions of the earth; and no officer or seaman, or other person belonging to, the ship excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade, or offer to trade, for any sort of provision, fruit, or other productions of the earth, unless they have leave so to do. 3. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend to the same; and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms, or working tools or suffers them to be stolen, the full value therefore will be charged against his pay, according to the custom of the navy in such cases, and he shall receive such further punishment as the nature of the offence may deserve. 4. The same penalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's stores of what nature soever. 5. No sort of iron, or any thing that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful or necessary articles, are to be given in exchange for any thing but provision. J. COOK. '] One of the first things that occupied the lieutenant's attention, after his arrival at Otaheite, was to prepare for the execution of hisgrand commission. For this purpose, as, in an excursion to thewestward, he had not found any more convenient harbour than that inwhich the Endeavour lay, he determined to go on shore and fix uponsome spot, commanded by the guns of the ship, where he might throw upa small fort for defence, and get every thing ready for making theastronomical observations. Accordingly, he took a party of men, andlanded, being accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green. They soon fixed upon a place very proper for their design, and whichwas at a considerable distance from any habitation of the natives. While the gentlemen were marking out the ground which they intended tooccupy, and seeing a small tent erected, that belonged to Mr. Banks, agreat number of the people of the country gathered gradually aroundthem, but with no hostile appearance, as there was not among theIndians a single weapon of any kind. Mr. Cook, however, intimated thatnone of them were to come within the line he had drawn excepting one, who appeared to be a chief, and Owhaw, a native who had attachedhimself to the English, both in Captain Wallis's expedition and in thepresent voyage. The lieutenant endeavoured to make these two personsunderstand, that the ground, which had been marked out, was onlywanted to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then itwould be quitted. Whether his meaning was comprehended or not, hecould not certainly determine; but the people behaved with a deferenceand respect that could scarcely have been expected, and which werehighly pleasing. They sat down without the circle, peaceably anduninterruptedly attending to the progress of the business, which wasupwards of two hours in completing. This matter being finished, and Mr. Cook having appointed thirteenmarines and a petty officer to guard the tent, he and the gentlemenwith him set out upon a little excursion into the woods of thecountry. They had not, however, gone far, before they were broughtback by a very disagreeable event. One of the Indians, who remainedabout the tent after the lieutenant and his friends had left it, watched an opportunity of taking the sentry at unawares, and snatchedaway his musket. Upon this, the petty officer who commanded the party, and who was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. With equal wantof consideration, and, perhaps with equal inhumanity, the menimmediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flyingcrowd, who consisted of more than a hundred. It being observed, thatthe thief did not fall, he was pursued, and shot dead. From subsequentinformation it happily appeared, that none of the natives besides wereeither killed or wounded. Lieutenant Cook, who was highly displeased with the conduct of thepetty officer, used every method in his power to dispel the terrorsand apprehensions of the Indians, but not immediately with effect. Thenext morning but few of the inhabitants were seen upon the beach, andnot one of them came off to the shill. What added particularly to theregret of the English was, that even Owhaw, who had hitherto been soconstant in his attachment, and who the day before had been remarkablyactive in endeavouring to renew the peace which had been broken, didnot now make his appearance. In the evening, however, when thelieutenant went on shore with only a boat's crew and some of thegentlemen, between thirty and forty of the natives gathered aroundthem, and trafficked with them, in a friendly manner, for cocoa nutsand other fruit. On the 17th, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green set up a tent onshore, and spentthe night there, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satelliteof Jupiter; but they met with a disappointment, in consequence of theweather's becoming cloudy. The next day, the lieutenant, with as manyof his people as could possibly be spared from the ship, began toerect the fort. While the English were employed in this business, manyof the Indians were so far from hindering, that they voluntarilyassisted them, and with great alacrity brought the pickets and facinesfrom the wood where they had been cut. Indeed, so scrupulous had Mr. Cook been of invading their property, that every stake which was usedwas purchased, and not a tree was cut down till their consent hadfirst been obtained. On the 26th, the lieutenant mounted six swivel guns upon the fort; onwhich occasion he saw, with concern, that the natives were alarmed andterrified. Some fishermen, who lived upon the point, removed to agreater distance; and Owhaw informed the English by signs, of hisexpectation that in four days they would fire their great guns. The lieutenant, on the succeeding day, gave a striking proof of hisregard to justice, and of his care to preserve the inhabitants frominjury and violence, by the punishment he inflicted on the butcher ofthe Endeavour, who was accused of having threatened, or attempted thelife of a woman, that was the wife of Tubourai Tamaide, a chief, remarkable for his attachment to our navigators. The butcher wanted topurchase of her a stone hatchet for a nail. To this bargain sheabsolutely refused to accede; upon which the fellow catched up thehatchet, and threw down the nail; threatening, at the same time, thatif she made any resistance, he would cut her throat with areaping-hook which he had in his hand. The charge was so fully provedin the presence of Mr. Banks, and the butcher had so little to say inexculpation of himself, that not the least doubt remained of hisguilt. The affair being reported by Mr. Banks to Lieutenant Cook, hetook an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with others of thenatives, were on board the ship, to call up the offender, and, afterrecapitulating the accusation and the proof of it, to give orders forhis immediate punishment. While the butcher was stripped, and tied upto the rigging, the Indians preserved a fixed attention, and waitedfor the event in silent suspense. But as soon as the first stroke wasinflicted, such was the humanity of these people, that they interferedwith great agitation, and earnestly entreated that the rest of thepunishment might be remitted. To this, however, the lieutenant, forvarious reasons, could not grant his consent; and when they found thattheir intercessions were ineffectual, they manifested their compassionby tears. On the 1st of May, the observatory was set up, and the astronomicalquadrant, together with some other instruments, was taken on shore. When, on the next morning, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green landed for thepurpose of fixing the quadrant in a situation for use, to theirinexpressible surprise and concern it was not to be found. It had beendeposited in a tent reserved for the lieutenant's use, where no onehad slept; it had never been taken out of the packing case, and thewhole was of considerable weight: none of the other instruments weremissing; and a sentinel had been posted the whole night within fiveyards of the tent. These circumstances induced a suspicion that therobbery might have been committed by some of our own people, whohaving seen a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might imaginethat it contained nails, or other articles for traffic with thenatives. The most diligent search, therefore, was made, and a largereward was offered for the finding of the quadrant, but with no degreeof success. In this exigency, Mr. Banks was of eminent service. Asthis gentleman had more influence over the Indians than any otherperson on board the Endeavour, and as there could be little doubt ofthe quadrant's having been conveyed away by some of the natives, hedetermined to go in search of it into the woods; and it was recoveredin consequence of his judicious and spirited exertions. The pleasurewith which it was brought back was equal to the importance of theevent; for the grand object of the voyage could not otherwise havebeen accomplished. Another embarrassment, though not of so serious a nature, wasoccasioned, on the very same day, by one of our officers havinginadvertently taken into custody Tootahah, a chief, who had connectedhimself in the most friendly manner with the English. Lieutenant Cook, who had given express orders that none of the Indians should beconfined, and who, therefore, was equally surprised and concerned atthis transaction; instantly set Tootahah at liberty. So strongly hadthis Indian been possessed with the notion that it was intended to puthim to death, that he could not be persuaded to the contrary till hewas led out of the fort. His joy at his deliverance was so great, thatit displayed itself in a liberality which our people were veryunwilling to partake of, from a consciousness that on this occasionthey had no claim to the reception of favours. The impression, however, of the confinement of the chief operated with such force uponthe minds of the natives, that few of them appeared; and the marketwas so ill supplied that the English were in want of necessaries. Atlength, by the prudent exertions of Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, andDr. Solander, the friendship of Tootahah was completely recovered, andthe reconciliation worked upon the Indians like a charm; for it was nosooner known that he had gone voluntarily on board the Endeavour, thanbread-fruit, cocoa nuts, and other provisions, were brought to thefort in great plenty. The lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen had hitherto, with alaudable discretion, bartered only beads for the articles of food nowmentioned. But the market becoming slack, they were obliged for thefirst time, on the 8th of May, to bring out their nails; and such wasthe effect of this new commodity, that one of the smallest size, whichwas about four inches long, procured twenty cocoa nuts, andbread-fruit in proportion. It was not till the 10th of the month that our voyagers learned thatthe Indian name of the island was OTAHEITE, by which name it hathsince been always distinguished. On Sunday the 14th, an instance was exhibited of the inattention ofthe natives to our modes of religion. The lieutenant had directed, that divine service should be performed at the fort; and he wasdesirous that some of the principal Indians should be present. Mr. Banks secured the attendance of Tuobourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occasion to some inquiries on their part, and to some instruction in return. During the whole service, they veryattentively observed Mr. Banks's behaviour, and stood, sat, orkneeled, as they saw him do; and they appeared to be sensible, that itwas a serious and important employment in which the English wereengaged. But when the worship was ended, neither of them asked anyquestions, nor would they attend to any explanations which wereattempted to be given of what had been performed. As the day approached for executing the grand purpose of the voyage, Lieutenant Cook determined, in consequence of some hints which he hadreceived from the Earl of Morton, to send out two parties, to observethe transit of Venus from other situations. By this means he hoped, that the success of the observation would be secured, if there shouldhappen to be any failure at Otaheite. Accordingly, on Thursday the 1stof June, he dispatched Mr. Gore in the long boat to Eimeo, aneighbouring island, together with Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing, agentleman belonging to Mr. Banks. They were furnished by Mr. Greenwith proper instruments. Mr. Banks himself chose to go upon thisexpedition, in which he was accompanied by Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio, and by others of the natives. Early the next morning, the lieutenantsent Mr. Hicks, in the pinnace, with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Pickersgill, and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, ordering them to fix uponsome convenient spot to the eastward, at a distance from the principalobservatory, where they also might employ the instruments they wereprovided with for observing the transit. The anxiety for such weather as would be favourable to the success ofthe experiment, was powerfully felt by all the parties concerned. Theycould not sleep in peace the preceding night: but their apprehensionswere happily removed by the sun's rising, on the morning of the 3d ofJune, without a cloud. The weather continued with equal clearnessthrough the whole of the day; so that the observation was successivelymade in every quarter. At the fort where Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Green, and Dr. Solander were stationed, the whole passage of the planet Venusover the sun's disk was observed with great advantage. The magnifyingpower of Dr. Solander's telescope was superior to that of those whichbelonged to the lieutenant and to Mr. Green. They all saw anatmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet; which muchdisturbed the times of the contact, and especially of the internalones; and, in their accounts of these times, they differed from eachother in a greater degree than might have been expected. According toMr. Green, _Morning. _ The first external contact, or first appearance h. Min. Sec. Of Venus on the sun, was . . . . . . . . . . . 9 25 42 The first internal contact, or total immersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 44 4 _Afternoon. _ The second internal contact, or beginning of the emersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 14 8 The second external contact, or total emersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 32 10 The latitude of the observatory was found to be 17° 29' 15"; and the longitude 149° 32' 30" west of Greenwich. A more particular account of this great astronomical event, theproviding for the accurate observation of which reflects so muchhonour on his majesty's munificent patronage of science, may be seenin the sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions. The pleasure which Lieutenant Cook and his friends derived, fromhaving thus successfully accomplished the first grand object of thevoyage, was not a little abated by the conduct of some of the ship'scompany, who, while the attention of the officers was engrossed by thetransit of Venus, broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole aquantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight. This was an evil of a public and serious nature; for these nails, ifinjudiciously circulated among the Indians, would be productive ofirreparable injury to the English, by reducing the value of iron, their staple commodity. One of the thieves, from whom only seven nailswere recovered, was detected; but though the punishment of two dozenlashes was inflicted upon him, he would not impeach any of hisaccomplices. Upon account of the absence of the two parties who had been sent outto observe the transit, the king's birthday was celebrated on the 5th, instead of the 4th of June; and the festivity of the day must havebeen greatly heightened by the happy success with which his majesty'sliberality had been crowned. On the 12th, Lieutenant Cook was again reduced to the necessity ofexercising the severity of discipline. Complaint having been made tohim, by certain of the natives, that two of the seamen had taken fromthem several bows and arrows, and some strings of platted hair, andthe charge being fully supported, he punished each of the criminalswith two dozen of lashes. On the same day it was discovered, that Otaheite, like other countriesin a certain period of society, has its bards and its minstrels. Mr. Banks, in his morning's walk, had met with a number of natives, whoappeared, upon inquiry, to be travelling musicians; and, having, learned where they were to be at night, all the gentlemen of theEndeavour repaired to the place. The band consisted of two flutes andthree drums; and the drummers accompanied the music with their voices. To the surprise of the English gentlemen, they found that themselveswere generally the subject of the song, which was unpremeditated. These minstrels were continually going about from place to place; andthey were rewarded, by the master of the house and the audience, withsuch things as they wanted. The repeated thefts which were committed by the inhabitants ofOtaheite brought our voyagers into frequent difficulties, and itrequired all the wisdom of Lieutenant Cook to conduct himself in aproper manner. His sentiments on the subject displayed the liberalityof his mind. He thought it of consequence to put an end, if possibleto thievish practices at once, by doing something that should engagethe natives in general to prevent them, from a regard to their commoninterest. Strict orders had been given by him, that they should notbe fired upon, even when they were detected in attempting to steal anyof the English property. For this the lieutenant had many reasons. Thecommon sentinels were in no degree fit to be entrusted with a power oflife and death; neither did Mr. Cook think that the thefts committedby the Otaheitans deserved so severe a punishment. They were not bornunder the law of England; nor was it one of the conditions under whichthey claimed the benefits of civil society, that their lives should beforfeited, unless they abstained from theft. As the lieutenant was notwilling that the natives should be exposed to fire-arms loaded withshot, neither did he approve of firing only with powder, which, ifrepeatedly found to be harmless, would at length be despised. At atime when a considerable robbery had been committed, an accidentfurnished him with what he hoped would be a happy expedient forpreventing future attempts of the same kind. Above twenty of thesailing canoes of the inhabitants came in with a supply of fish. Uponthese Lieutenant Cook immediately seized, and, having brought theminto the river behind the fort, gave notice, that unless the thingswhich had been stolen were returned, the canoes should be burnt. Thismenace, without designing to put it into execution, he ventured topublish, from a full conviction that, as restitution was thus made acommon cause, the stolen goods would all of them speedily be broughtback. In this, however, he was mistaken. An iron coal-rake, indeed, was restored; upon which, great solicitation was made for the releaseof the canoes; but he still insisted on his original condition. Whenthe next day came, he was much surprised to find that nothing furtherhad been returned; and, as the people were in the utmost distress forthe fish, which would in a short time be spoiled, he was reduced tothe disagreeable alternative, either of releasing the canoes contraryto what he had solemnly and publicly declared, or of detaining them, to the great damage of those who were innocent. As a temporaryexpedient, he permitted the natives to take the fish, but stilldetained the canoes. So far was this measure from being attended withadvantage, that it was productive of new confusion and injury; for asit was not easy at once to distinguish to what particular persons theseveral lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered by those whohad no right to any part of their cargo. At length, most pressinginstances being still made for the restoration of the canoes, andLieutenant Cook having reason to believe, either that the things forwhich he detained them were not in the island, or that those whosuffered by their detention were absolutely incapable of prevailingupon the thieves to relinquish their booty, he determined, though notimmediately, to comply with the solicitations of the natives. Ourcommander was, however, not a little mortified at the ill success ofhis project. About the same time, another accident occurred, which, notwithstandingall the caution of our principal voyagers, was very near embroilingthem with the Indians. The lieutenant having sent a boat on shore toget ballast for the ship, the officer, not immediately finding stonessuitable to the purpose, began to pull down some part of an enclosurein which the inhabitants had deposited the bones of their dead. Thisaction a number of the natives violently opposed; and a messenger camedown to the tents, to acquaint the gentlemen that no such thing wouldbe suffered. Mr. Banks directly repaired to the place, and soon put anamicable end to the contest, by sending the boat's crew to the river, where a sufficient quantity of stones might be gathered without apossibility of giving offence. These Indians appeared to be much morealarmed at any injury which they apprehended to be done to the deadthan to the living. This was the only measure in which they venturedto oppose the English: and the only insult that was ever offered toany individual belonging to the Endeavour was upon a similar occasion. It should undoubtedly be the concern of all voyagers, to abstain fromwantonly offending the religious prejudices of the people among whomthey come. To extend the knowledge of navigation and the sphere of discovery, objects which we need not say that Lieutenant Cook kept alwayssteadily in view, he set out, in the pinnace, on the 26th of June, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the island; duringwhich the lieutenant and his companions were thrown into great alarm, by the apprehended loss of the boat. By this expedition Mr. Cookobtained an acquaintance with the several districts of Otaheite, thechiefs who presided over them, and a variety of curious circumstancesrespecting the manners and customs of the inhabitants. On the 1st ofJuly, he got back to the fort at Matavai, having found the circuit ofthe island, including the two peninsulas of which it consisted, to beabout thirty leagues. The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by an expedition of Mr. Banks's to trace the river up the valley from which it issues, andexamine how far its banks were inhabited. During this excursion hediscerned many traces of subterraneous fire. The stones, like those ofMadeira, displayed evident tokens of having been burnt; and the veryclay upon the hills had the same appearance. Another valuable employment of Mr. Banks was the planting of a greatquantity of the seeds of watermelons, oranges, lemons, limes, andother plants and trees, which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. Forthese he prepared ground on each side of the fort, and selected asmany varieties of soil as could be found. He gave, also, liberally ofthese seeds to the natives, and planted many of them in the woods. Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his departure. On the 7th ofJuly, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates andpalisadoes of the fortification; and it was continued to be dismantledduring the two following days. Our commander and the rest of thegentlemen were in hopes that they should quit Otaheite without givingor receiving any further offence; but in this respect they wereunfortunately disappointed. The lieutenant had prudently overlooked adispute of a smaller nature between a couple of foreign seamen andsome of the Indians, when he was immediately involved in a quarrel, which lie greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out of hispower to avoid. In the middle of the night, between the 8th and the9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, wentprivately from the fort. As they were not to be found in the morning, Mr. Cook was apprehensive that they intended to stay behind; but, being unwilling to endanger the harmony and goodwill which at presentsubsisted between our people, and the natives, he determined to wait aday for the chance of the men's return. As, to the great concern ofthe lieutenant, the marines were not come back on the morning of thetenth, inquiry was made after them of the Indians, who acknowledgedthat each of them had taken a wife, and had resolved to becomeinhabitants of the country. After some deliberation, two of thenatives undertook to conduct such persons to, the place of thedeserters' retreat, as Mr. Cook should think proper to send; and, accordingly, he dispatched with the guides a petty officer and thecorporal of the marines. As it was of the utmost importance to recoverthe men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated to several of thechiefs who were in the fort with the women, among whom were TubouraiTargaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be to leave it tillthe fugitives were returned; and the lieutenant had the pleasure ofobserving, that they received the intimation with very littleindications of alarm, and with assurances, that his people should besecured and sent back as soon as possible. While this transaction tookplace at the fort, our commander sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace tofetch Tootahah on board the ship. Mr. Cook had reason to expect, ifthe Indian guides proved faithful, that the deserters, and those whowent in search of them, would return before the evening. Beingdisappointed, his suspicions increased, and thinking it not safe, whenthe night approached, to let the persons whom he had detained ashostages continue at the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, and some others, to be taken on board the Endeavour; a circumstancewhich excited so general an alarm, that several of them, andespecially the women, expressed their apprehensions with great emotionand many tears. Webb, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some ofthe natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty officer andcorporal, would not be restored till Tootahah should be set atliberty. Lieutenant Cook now found that the tables were turned uponhim: but, having proceeded too far to retreat, he immediatelydispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, torescue the prisoners. Tootahah was, at the same time, informed, thatit behoved him to send some of his people with them, for the purposeof affording them effectual assistance. With this injunction hereadily complied, and the prisoners were restored without the leastopposition. On the next day they were brought back to the ship, uponwhich the chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus ended anaffair which had given the lieutenant a great deal of trouble andconcern. It appears, however, that the measure which he pursued wasthe result of an absolute necessity; since it was only by the seizureof the chiefs that he could have recovered his men. Love was theseducer of the two marines. So strong was the attachment which theyhad formed to a couple of girls, that it was their design to concealthemselves till the ship had sailed, and to take up their residence inthe island. Tupia was one of the natives who had so particularly devoted himselfto the English, that he had scarcely ever been absent from them duringthe whole of their stay at Otaheite. He had been Oberea's firstminister, while she was in the height of her power; and he was alsochief priest of the country. To his knowledge of the religiousprinciples and ceremonies of the Indians, he added great experience innavigation, and a particular acquaintance with the number andsituation of the neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed adesire to go with our navigators, and when they were ready to depart, he came on board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, andentreated that he might be permitted to proceed with them on theirvoyage. To have such a person in the Endeavour, was desirable on manyaccounts; and therefore, Lieutenant Cook gladly acceded to hisproposal. On the 13th of July, the English weighed anchor: and as soon as theship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and weptwith a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something verystriking and tender. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with atruly admirable firmness and resolution; for, though he wept, theeffort he made to conceal his tears concurred, with them, to do himhonour. The stay of our voyagers at Otaheite was three months, the greaterpart of which time was spent in the most cordial friendship with theinhabitants, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offices. That anydifferences should happen was greatly regretted on the part ofLieutenant Cook and his friends, who were studious to avoid them asmuch as possible. The principal causes of them resulted from thepeculiar situation and circumstances of the English and the Indians, and especially from the disposition of the latter to theft. Theeffects of this disposition could not always be submitted to orprevented. It was happy, however, that there was only a singleinstance in which the differences that arose were attended with anyfatal consequence; and by that accident the lieutenant was instructedto take the most effectual measures for the future prevention ofsimilar events. He had nothing so much at heart, as that in no casethe intercourse of his people with the natives should be productive ofbloodshed. The traffic with the inhabitants for provisions and refreshments, which was chiefly under the management of Mr. Banks, was carried onwith as much order as in any well regulated market in Europe. Axes, hatchets, spikes, large nails, looking-glasses, knives, and beads, were found to be the best articles to deal in; and for some of these, every thing which the inhabitants possessed might be procured. Theywere, indeed, fond of fine linen cloth, whether white or printed; butan axe worth half-a-crown would fetch more than a piece of cloth ofthe value of twenty shillings. It would deviate from the plan of this narrative, to enter into aminute account of the nature, productions, inhabitants, customs, andmanners of the countries which were discovered or visited by Mr. Cook;or to give a particular detail of every nautical, geographical, andastronomical observation. It will be sufficient here to take notice, that our commander did not depart from Otaheite without accumulating astore of information and instruction for the enlargement of knowledgeand the benefit of navigation. While the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage under an easy sail, Tupiainformed Lieutenant Cook, that, at four of the neighbouring islands, which he distinguished by the names of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, andBolabola, hogs, fowls and other refreshments, which had latterly beensparingly supplied at Otaheite, might be procured in great plenty. Thelieutenant, however, was desirous of first examining an island thatlay to the northward, and was called Tethuroa. Accordingly, he camenear it; but having found it to be only a small low island and beingtold, at the same time, that it had no settled inhabitants, hedetermined to drop any further examination of it, and to go in searchof Huaheine and Ulietea, which were described to be well peopled, andas large as Otaheite. On the 15th of July, the weather being hazy, with light breezes andcalms succeeding each other, so that no land could be seen, and littleway was made, Tupia afforded an amusing proof, that, in the exerciseof his priestly character, he knew how to unite some degree of artwith his superstition. He often prayed for a wind to his god Tane, andas often boasted of his success. This, indeed, he took a mosteffectual method to secure; for he never began his address to hisdivinity, till he perceived the breeze to be so near, that he knew itmust approach the ship before his supplication could well be broughtto a conclusion. The Endeavour, on the 16th, being close in with the north-west part ofHuaheine, some canoes soon came off, in one of which was the king ofthe island and his wife. At first the people seemed afraid; but, uponseeing Tupia, their apprehensions were in part dispersed, and, atlength, in consequence of frequent and earnestly repeated assurancesof friendship, their majesties, and several others, ventured on boardthe ship. Their astonishment at every thing which was shewn them wasvery great; and yet their curiosity did not extend to any objects butwhat were particularly pointed out to their notice. When they hadbecome more familiar, Mr. Cook was given to understand, that the kingwas called Oree, and that he proposed as a mark of amity, their makingan exchange of their names. To this our commander readily consented;and, during the remainder of their being together, the lieutenant wasOree, and his majesty was Cookee. In the afternoon, the Endeavourhaving come to an anchor, in a small but excellent harbour on the westside of the island, the name of which was Owharre, Mr. Cook, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse, Tupia, and thenatives who had been on board ever since the morning, immediately wenton shore. The English gentlemen repeated their excursions on the twofollowing days; in the course of which they found that the people ofHuaheine had a very near resemblance to those of Otaheite, in person, dress language, and every other circumstance; and that the productionsof the country were exactly similar. In trafficking with our people, the inhabitants of Huaheine displayeda caution and hesitation which rendered the dealing with them slow andtedious. On the 19th, therefore, the English were obliged to bring outsome hatchets, which it was at first hoped there would be no occasionfor, in an island that had never before been visited by any European. These procured three very large hogs; and as it was proposed to sailin the afternoon, Oree and several others came on board to take theirleave. To the king Mr. Cook gave a small pewter plate, on which wasstamped this inscription; 'His Britannic Majesty's ship Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook, commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine. ' Amongother presents made to Oree, were some medals or counters, resemblingthe coin of England, and struck in the year 1761; all of which, andparticularly the plate he promised carefully and inviolably topreserve. This the lieutenant thought to be as lasting a testimony asany he could well provide, that the English had first discovered theisland; and having dismissed his visitors, who were highly pleasedwith the treatment they had met with, he sailed for Ulietea, in a goodharbour of which he anchored the next day. Tupia had expressed his apprehension, that our navigators, if theylanded upon the island, would be exposed to the attacks of the men ofBolabola, whom he represented as having lately conquered it, and ofwhom he entertained a very formidable idea. This, however, did notdeter Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the other gentlemen, fromgoing immediately on shore. Tupia, who was of the party, introducedthem by performing some ceremonies which he had practised before atHuaheine. After this the lieutenant hoisted an English jack, and inthe name of his Britannic majesty, took possession of Ulietea, and thethree neighbouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola all of whichwere in sight. On the 21st, the master was despatched in the longboat, to examine thecoast of the south part of the island; and one of the mates was sentin the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay. At the sametime Lieutenant Cook went himself in the pinnace, to survey that partof Ulietea which lies to the north. Mr. Banks likewise, and thegentlemen again went on shore, and employed themselves in trading withthe natives, and in examining the productions and curiosities of thecountry; but they saw nothing worthy of notice, excepting some humanjaw-bones, which, like scalps among the Indians of North America, weretrophies of war, and had probably been hung up, by the warriors ofBolabola, as a memorial of their conquest. The weather being hazy on the 22d and 23d, with strong gales, thelieutenant did not venture to put to sea; but, on the 24th, though thewind continued to be variable, he got under sail, and plied to thenorthward within the reef, purposing to get out at a wider openingthan that by which he had entered the harbour. However, in doing this, he was in imminent danger of striking on the rock. The master, who byhis order had kept continually sounding in the chains, suddenly calledout, 'two fathom. ' Though our commander knew that the ship drew atleast fourteen feet, and consequently that the shoal could notpossibly be under her keel, he was, nevertheless, justly alarmed. Happily, the master was either mistaken, or the Endeavour went alongthe edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of theseislands, are as steep as a wall. After a tedious navigation of some days, during which several smallislands were seen, and the longboat landed at Otaha, Lieutenant Cookreturned to Ulietea, but to a different part of it from that which hehad visited before. In a harbour, belonging to the west side of theisland, he came to an anchor on the 1st of August. This measure wasnecessary, in order to stop a leak which the ship had sprung in thepowder-room, and to take in more ballast, as she was found too lightto carry sail upon a wind. The place where the Endeavour was securedwas conveniently situated for the lieutenant's purpose of obtainingballast and water. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the gentlemen who went on shore this day, spent their time much to their satisfaction. The reception they metwas respectful in the highest degree, and the behaviour of the Indiansto the English indicated a fear of them, mixed with a confidence thatthey had no propensity to commit any kind of injury. In an intercoursewhich the lieutenant and his friends carried on, for several days, with the inhabitants of this part of the island, it appeared that theterrors which Tupia had expressed of the Bolabola conquerors werewholly groundless. Even Opoony, the formidable king of Bolabola, treated our navigators with respect. Being at Ulietea on the 5th ofAugust, he sent Mr. Cook a present of three hogs, some fowls, andseveral pieces of cloth, of uncommon length, together with aconsiderable quantity of plaintains, cocoa-nuts, and otherrefreshments. This present was accompanied with a message, that, onthe next day, he intended to pay our commander a visit. Accordingly, on the 6th, the lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen all staid athome, in expectation of this important visitor; who did not, however, make his appearance, but sent three very pretty girls as hismessengers, to demand something in return for his present. In theafternoon, as the great king would not go to the English, the Englishdetermined to go to the great king. From the account which had beengiven of him, as lord of the Bolabola men, who were the conquerors ofUlietea, and the terror of all the other islands, Lieutenant Cook andhis companions expected to see a young and vigorous chief, with anintelligent countenance, and the marks of an enterprising spirit;instead of which they found a feeble wretch, withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid, that he scarcelyappeared to be possessed even of a common degree of understanding. Otaha being the principal place of Opoony's residence, he went withour navigators to that island on the next day; and they were in hopesof deriving some advantage from his influence, in obtaining suchprovision as they wanted. In this respect, however, they weredisappointed; for, though they had presented him with an axe, as aninducement to him to encourage his subjects in dealing with them theywere obliged to leave him without having procured a single article. The time which the carpenters had taken up in stopping the leak of theship having detained our voyagers longer at Ulietea than they wouldotherwise have staid, Lieutenant Cook determined to give up the designof going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to bedifficult of access. The principal islands, about which the Englishhad now spent somewhat more than three weeks, were six in number;Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua. As they liecontigious to each other, the lieutenant gave them the generalappellation of the Society Islands; but did not think proper todistinguish them separately by any other names than those by whichthey were called by the natives. On the 9th of August, the leak of the vessel having been stopped, andthe fresh stock that had been purchased being brought on board, ourcommander took the opportunity of a breeze which sprang up at east, and sailed out of the harbour. As he was sailing away, Tupia stronglyurged him to fire a shot towards Bolabola; and, though that island wasat seven leagues distance, the lieutenant obliged him by complyingwith his request. Tupia's views probably were, to display a mark ofhis resentment, and to shew the power of his new allies. Our voyagers pursued their course, without meeting with any eventworthy of notice, till the 13th, when land was discovered, bearingsouth-east, and which Tupia informed them to be an island calledOheteroa. On the next day, Mr. Cook sent Mr. Gore, one of hislieutenants, in the pinnace, with orders, that he should endeavour toget onshore, and learn from the natives, whether there was anchoragein a bay then in sight, and what land lay further to the southward. Mr. Gore was accompanied in this expedition by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solanderand Tupia, who used every method, but in vain, to conciliate the mindsof the inhabitants, and to engage them in a friendly intercourse. As, upon making the circuit of the island, neither harbour nor anchoragecould be found upon it, and at the same time, the disposition of thepeople was so hostile, that landing would be rendered impracticablewithout bloodshed, Mr. Cook determined, with equal wisdom andhumanity, not to attempt it, having no motive that could justify therisk of life. From Tupia our navigators learned, that there were various islandslying at different distances and in different directions fromOheteroa, between the south and the north-west; and that to thenorth-east there was an island called Manua, Bird Island. This herepresented as being at the distance of three days' sail; but heseemed most desirous that Lieutenant Cook should proceed to thewestward, and described several islands in that situation, which hesaid he had visited. It appeared from his description of them, thatthese were probably Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, which werediscovered by Captain Wallis. The furthest island that Tupia knew ofto the southward, lay, he said, at the distance of about two days'sail from Oheteroa, and was called Moutou. But he added, that hisfather had informed him of there being islands still more to thesouth. Upon the whole, our commander determined to stand southward insearch of a continent, and to lose no time in attempting to discoverany other islands, than such as he might happen to fall in with duringhis course. On the 15th of August, our voyagers sailed from Oheteroa; and, on the25th of the same month was celebrated the anniversary of theirdeparture from England. The comet was seen on the 30th. It was alittle above the horizon, in the eastern part of the heavens, at onein the morning; and at about half an hour after four it passed themeridian, and its tail subtended an angle of forty-two degrees. Tupia, who was among others that observed the comet, instantly cried out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Bolabola, theywould attack the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would be obliged toendeavour to preserve their lives by fleeing with the utmostprecipitation to the mountains. On the 6th of October land was discovered, which appeared to be large. When, on the next day, it was more distinctly visible, it assumed astill larger appearance, and displayed four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, above all which was a chain of mountains ofan enormous height. This land naturally became the subject of mucheager conversation; and the general opinion of the gentlemen on boardthe Endeavour was, that they had found the _Terra australisincognita_. In fact, it was a part of New Zealand, where the firstadventures the English met with were very unpleasant, on account ofthe hostile disposition of the inhabitants. Lieutenant Cook having anchored, on the 8th, in a bay, at the entranceof a small river, went on shore in the evening, with the pinnace andyawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and attended with aparty of men. Being desirous of conversing with some natives, whom hehad observed on the opposite side of the river from that on which hehad landed, he ordered the yawl in, to carry himself and hiscompanions over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When they camenear the place where the Indians were assembled, the latter all ranaway; and the gentlemen having left four boys to take care of theyawl, walked up to several huts, which were about two or three hundredyards from the water-side. They had not gone very far, when four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and, running up toattack the boat, would certainly have cut her off, if they had notbeen discovered by the people in the pinnace, who called to the boysto drop down the stream. The boys instantly obeyed; but being closelypursued by the natives, the cockswain of the pinnace, to whom thecharge of the boats was committed, fired a musket over their heads. Atthis they stopped and looked around them; but their alarm speedilysubsiding, they brandished their lances in a threatening manner, andin a few minutes renewed the pursuit. The firing of a second musketover their heads did not draw from them any kind of notice. At lastone of them having lifted up his spear to dart it at the boat, anotherpiece was fired, by which he was shot dead. At the fall of theirassociate, the three remaining Indians stood for awhile motionless, and seemed petrified with astonishment. No sooner had they recoveredthemselves, than they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which, however, they were obliged to leave, that it might not retardtheir flight. Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who had straggled to alittle distance from each other, were drawn together upon the reportof the first musket, and returned speedily to the boat, in whichhaving crossed the river, they soon beheld the Indian lying dead uponthe ground. After their return to the ship, they could hear the peopleon shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone ofvoice. Notwithstanding this disaster, the lieutenant being desirous ofestablishing an intercourse with the natives, ordered, on thefollowing day, three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, andproceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, and Tupia. About fifty of the inhabitants seemedto wait for their landing, having seated themselves upon the ground, on the opposite side of the river. This being regarded as a sign offear, Mr. Cook, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, advancedtowards them; but they had not gone many paces before all the Indiansstarted up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a smallweapon of green talk. Though Tupia called to them in the language ofOtaheite, they only answered by flourishing their weapons, and makingsigns for the gentlemen to depart. On a musket being fired wide ofthem, they desisted from their threats; and our commander, who hadprudently retreated till the marines could be landed, again advancedtowards them, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, to whom werenow added Mr. Green and Mr. Monkhouse. Tupia was a second timedirected to speak to them, and it was perceived with great pleasurethat he was perfectly understood, his and their language being thesame, excepting only in a diversity of dialect. He informed them thatour voyagers only wanted provision and water, in exchange for iron, the properties of which he explained as far as he was able. Though thenatives seemed willing to trade, Tupia was sensible, during the courseof his conversation with them, that their intentions were unfriendly;and of this he repeatedly warned the English gentlemen. At length, twenty or thirty of the Indians were induced to cross the river, uponwhich presents were made them of iron and beads. On these theyappeared to set little value and particularly on the iron, not havingthe least conception of its use, so that nothing was obtained inreturn excepting a few feathers. Their arms, indeed, they offered toexchange for those of our voyagers, and this being refused, they madevarious attempts to snatch them out of their hands. Tupia was nowinstructed to acquaint the Indians, that our gentlemen would beobliged to kill them, if they proceeded to any further violence;notwithstanding which, one of them, while Mr. Green happened to turnabout, seized his hanger, and retired to a little distance, with ashout of exultation. The others, at the same time, began to beextremely insolent, and more of the natives were seen coming to jointhem from the opposite side of the river. It being, therefore, necessary to repress them, Mr. Banks fired, with small shot, at thedistance of about fifteen yards, upon the man who had taken thehanger. Though he was struck, he did not return the hanger, butcontinued to wave it round his head, while he slowly made his retreat. Mr. Monkhouse then fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. So far, however, were the Indians from being sufficiently terrified, that the main body of them, who, upon the first discharge, had retiredto a rock in the middle of the river, began to return, and it was withno small difficulty that Mr. Monkhouse secured the hanger. The wholenumber of them continuing to advance, three of the English partydischarged their pieces at them, loaded only with small shot, uponwhich they swam back for the shore, and it appeared, upon theirlanding, that two or three of them were wounded. While they retiredslowly up the country, Lieutenant Cook and his companions re-embarkedin their boats. As the lieutenant had unhappily experienced that nothing, at thisplace, could be done with these people and found that the water in theriver was salt, he proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay insearch of fresh water. Beside this, he had formed a design ofsurprising some of the natives, and taking them on board, that, bykind treatment and presents he might obtain their friendship, andrender them the instruments of establishing for him an amicableintercourse with their countrymen. While, upon account of a dangeroussurf which every where beat upon the shore, the boats were preventedfrom landing, our commander saw two canoes coming in from the sea, oneunder sail, and the other worked with paddles. This he thought to be afavourable opportunity for executing his purpose. Accordingly, theboats were disposed in such a manner as appeared most likely to besuccessful in intercepting the canoes. Notwithstanding this, theIndians in the canoe which was paddled exerted themselves with so muchvigour, at the first apprehension of danger, that they escaped to thenearest land. The other canoe sailed on without discerning theEnglish, till she was in the midst of them; but no sooner had shediscovered them, than the people on board struck their sail, and pliedtheir paddles so briskly, as to outrun the boat by which they werepursued. Being within hearing, Tupia called to them to come alongside, with assurances that they should not in any degree be hurt or injured. They trusted, however, more to their own paddles than to Tupia'spromises, and continued to flee from our navigators with all theirpower. Mr. Cook, as the least exceptionable expedient of accomplishinghis design, ordered a musket to be fired over their heads. This, hehoped, would either make them surrender or leap into the water, but itproduced a contrary effect. The Indians, who were seven in number, immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight. When, therefore, the boat came up, they began to attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons; and they carried it onwith so much vigour and violence, that the English thought themselvesobliged to fire upon them in their own defence; the consequence ofwhich was, that four were unhappily killed. The other three, who wereboys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water, and endeavoured to make their escape;but being with some difficulty overpowered by our people, they werebrought into the boat. It is impossible to reflect upon this part of Lieutenant Cook'sconduct with any degree of satisfaction. He, himself, upon a calmreview, did not approve of it; and he was sensible that it would becensured by the feelings of every reader of humanity. It is probablethat his mind was so far irritated by the disagreeable precedingevents of this unfortunate day, and by the unexpected violence of theIndians in the canoe, as to lose somewhat of that self-possession, bywhich his character in general was eminently distinguished. Candour, however, requires, that I should relate what he hath offered inextenuation, not in defence, of the transaction; and this shall bedone in his own words. "These people certainly did not deserve deathfor not choosing to confide in my promises, or not consenting to comeon board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger. But thenature of my service required me to obtain a knowledge of theircountry, which I could no otherwise effect, than by forcing my wayinto it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission through theconfidence and goodwill of the people. I had already tried the powerof presents without effect; and I was now prompted, by my desire toavoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the onlymethod left of convincing them, that we intended them no harm, and hadit in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and though in thecontest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory mighthave been complete without so great an expense of life; yet in suchsituations, when the command to fire has been given, no man canrestrain its excess, or prescribe its effect. " Our voyagers were successful in conciliating the minds of the threeboys, to which Tupia particularly contributed. When their fears wereallayed, and their cheerfulness returned, they sang a song with adegree of taste, that surprised the English gentlemen. The tune, likethose of our psalms, was solemn and slow, containing many notes andsemitones. Some further attempts were made to establish an intercourse with thenatives, and Mr. Cook and his friends, on the 10th, went on shore forthat purpose; but being unsuccessful in their endeavours, theyresolved to re-embark lest their stay should embroil them in anotherquarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. On the next day thelieutenant weighed anchor, and stood away from this unfortunate andinhospitable place. As it had not afforded a single article that waswanted excepting wood, he gave it the name of Poverty Bay. By theinhabitants it is called Taoneroa, or Long Sand. I shall not regularlypursue the course of our commander round New Zealand. In this coursehe spent nearly six months, and made large additions to the knowledgeof navigation and geography. By making almost the whole circuit of NewZealand, he ascertained it to be two islands, with a strength ofevidence which no prejudice could gainsay or resist. He obtainedlikewise a full acquaintance with the inhabitants of the differentparts of the country, with regard to whom it was clearly proved, thatthey are eaters of human flesh. Omitting a number of minutecircumstances, I shall only select a few things which mark Mr. Cook'spersonal conduct, and relate to his intercourse with the natives. The good usage the three boys had met with, and the friendly andgenerous manner in which they were dismissed to their own homes, hadsome effect in softening the dispositions of the neighbouring Indians. Several of them, who had come on board while the ship lay becalmed inthe afternoon, manifested every sign of friendship, and cordiallyinvited the English to go back to their old bay, or to a cove whichwas not quite so far off. But Lieutenant Cook chose rather toprosecute his discoveries, having reason to hope that he should find abetter harbour than any he had yet seen. While the ship was, hauling round to the south end of a small island, which the lieutenant had named Portland, from its very greatresemblance to Portland in the British Channel, she suddenly fell intoshoal water and broken ground. The soundings were never twice thesame, jumping at once from seven fathom to eleven. However, they werealways seven fathom or more; and in a short time the Endeavour gotclear of danger, and again sailed in deep water. While the ship was inapparent distress, the inhabitants of the islands, who in vast numberssat on its white cliffs, and could not avoid perceiving someappearance of confusion on board, and some irregularity in the workingof the vessel, were desirous of taking advantage of her criticalsituation. Accordingly, five canoes full of men, and well armed, wereput off with the utmost expedition; and they came so near, and shewedso hostile a disposition by shouting, brandishing their lances, andusing threatening gestures, that the lieutenant was in pain for hissmall boat, which was still employed in sounding. By a musket which heordered to be fired over them, they were rather provoked thanintimidated. The firing of a four pounder loaded with grape shot, though purposely discharged wide of them, produced a better effect. Upon the report of the piece the Indians all rose up and shouted; butinstead of continuing the chase, they collected themselves together, and, after a short consultation, went quietly away. On the 14th of October, Lieutenant Cook having hoisted out his pinnaceand long boat to search for water, just as they were about to set off, several boats full of the New Zealand people were seen coming from theshore. After some time five of these boats, having on board betweeneighty and ninety men, made towards the ship; and four more followedat no great distance, as if to sustain the attack. When the first fivehad gotten within about a hundred yards of the Endeavour, they beganto sing their war song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for anengagement. As the lieutenant was extremely desirous of avoiding theunhappy necessity of using fire-arms against the natives, Tupia wasordered to acquaint them that our voyagers had weapons which, likethunder, would destroy them in a moment; that they would immediatelyconvince them of their power by directing their effect so that theyshould not be hurt; but that if they persisted in any hostile attempt, they would be exposed to the direct attack of these formidableweapons. A four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was then fired wideof them; and this expedient was fortunately attended with success. Thereport, the flash, and above all the shot, which spread very far inthe water, terrified the Indians to such a degree, that they began topaddle away with all their might. At the instance, however, of Tupia, the people of one of the boats were induced to lay aside their arms, and to come under the stern of the Endeavour; in consequence of whichthey received a variety of presents. On the next day a circumstance occurred, which shewed how ready one ofthe inhabitants of New Zealand was to take an advantage of ournavigators. In a large armed canoe, which came boldly alongside of theship, was a man who had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat likethat of a bear. Mr. Cook being desirous of knowing to what animal itoriginally belonged, offered the Indian for it a piece of red baize. With this bargain he seemed to be greatly pleased, immediately pullingoff the skin, and holding it up in the boat. He would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in his possesssion; and as theircould be no transfer of property if equal caution should be exercisedon both sides, the lieutenant ordered the baize to be delivered intohis hands. Upon this, instead of sending up the skin, he began withamazing coolness to pack up both that and the cloth, which he hadreceived as the purchase of it, in a basket: nor did he pay the leastregard to Mr. Cook's demand or remonstrances, but soon after put offfrom the English vessel. Our commander was too generous to revengethis insult by any act of severity. During the course of a traffic which was carrying on for some fish, little Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was placed among others over the ship'sside; to hand up what was purchased. While he was thus employed, oneof the New Zealanders, watching his opportunity, suddenly seized himand dragged him into a canoe. Two of the natives then held him down inthe fore part of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled heroff with all possible celerity. An action so violent rendered itindispensably necessary that the marines, who were in arms upon thedeck, should be ordered to fire. Though the shot was directed to thatpart of the canoe which was furthest from the boy, and somewhat wideof her, it being thought favourable rather to miss the rowers than torun the hazard of hurting Tayeto, it happened that one man dropped. This occasioned the Indians to quit their hold of the youth, whoinstantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship. In themeanwhile, the largest of the canoes pulled round and followed him;and till some muskets and a great gun were fired at her, did notdesist from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat waslowered, and the poor boy was taken up unhurt. Some of the gentlemen, who with their glasses traced the canoes to shore, agreed in assertingthat they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to beeither dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds. While, on the 18th, the Endeavour lay abreast of a peninsula withinPortland Island, called Terakako, two of the natives, who were judgedto be chiefs, placed an extraordinary degree of confidence in Mr. Cook. They were so well pleased with the kindness which had been shownthem in a visit to the ship, that they determined not to go on shoretill the next morning. This was a circumstance by no means agreeableto the lieutenant, and he remonstrated against it; but as theypersisted in their resolution, he agreed to comply with it, providedtheir servants were also taken on board, and their canoe hoisted intothe ship. The countenance of one of these two chiefs was the most openand ingenuous that our commander had ever seen, so that he soon gaveup every suspicion of his entertaining any sinister design. When theguests were put on shore the next morning, they expressed somesurprise at seeing themselves so far from their habitations. On Monday the 23rd, while the ship was in Tagadoo Bay, Lieutenant Cookwent on shore to examine the watering-place, and found every thingagreeable to his wishes. The boat landed in the cove, without theleast serf; the water was excellent, and conveniently situated: therewas plenty of wood close to the high water mark, and the dispositionof the people was as favourable in all respects as could be desired. Early the next morning, our commander sent Lieutenant Gore tosuperintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with asufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the marines as aguard. Soon after he went on shore himself, and continued there duringthe whole day. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had landed on the sameday, found in their walks several things worthy of notice. As theywere advancing in some of the valleys, the hills on each side of whichwere very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of anextraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock perforated through itswhole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern, opening directly to the sea. This aperture was seventy-five feet long, twenty-seven broad, and five and forty feet high, commanding a view ofthe bay and the hills on the other side, which were seen through it;and opening at once upon the view, produced an effect far superior toany of the contrivances of art. When on the 28th the gentlemen of the Endeavour went on shore upon anisland which lies to the left hand of the entrance of Tolaga Bay, theysaw there the largest canoe they had yet met with; her length beingsixty-eight feet and a half, her breadth five feet, and her heightthree feet six inches. In the same island was a larger house than anythey had hitherto seen; but it was in an unfinished state, and full ofchips. While the ship was in Hicks's Bay, the inhabitants of the adjoiningcoast were found to be very hostile. This gave much uneasiness to ournavigators, and was indeed contrary to their expectation; for they hadhoped that the report of their power and clemency had spread to agreater extent. At day-break, on the 1st of November, they counted noless than five and forty canoes that were coming from the shoretowards the Endeavour; and these were followed by several more fromanother place. Some of the Indians traded fairly; but others of themtook what was handed down to them without making any return, and addedderision to fraud. The insolence of one of them was very remarkable. Some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, this man without anyceremony untied it, and put it up in his bundle. Being immediatelycalled to, and required to return it, instead of doing so, he let hiscanoe drop astern, and laughed at the English. A musket which wasfired over his head, did not put a stop to his mirth. From a secondmusket, which was loaded with small shot, he shrunk a little, when theshot struck him upon his back; but be regarded it no more than one ofour men would have done the stroke of a rattan, and continued withgreat composure to pack up the linen which he hard stolen. All thecanoes now dropped astern, and set up their song of defiance, whichlasted till they were at about four hundred yards' distance from theship. As they did not appear to have a design of attacking ourvoyagers, Lieutenant Cook was unwilling to do them any hurt; and yethe thought that their going off in a bravado might have a bad effectwhen it should be reported on shore. To convince them therefore, thatthey were still in his power, though far beyond the reach of anymissile weapon with which they were acquainted, he ordered a fourpounder to be fired in such a manner as to pass near them. As the shothappened to strike the water, and to rise several times at a greatdistance beyond the canoes, the Indians were so much terrified, thatwithout once looking behind them, they paddled away as fast as theywere able. In standing westward from a small island called Mowtohora, theEndeavour suddenly shoaled her water front seventeen to ten fathom. Asthe lieutenant knew that she was not far off from some small islandsand rocks, which lead been seen before it was dark, and which he hadintended to have passed that evening, he thought it more prudent totack, and to spend the night under Mowtohora, where he was certainthat there was no danger. It was happy for himself, and for all ourvoyagers, that he formed this resolution. In the morning theydiscovered ahead of them several rocks, some of which were level withthe surface of the water, and some below it; and the striking againstwhich could not in the hour of darkness, have been avoided. In passingbetween these rocks and the main, the ship had only from ten to sevenfathom water. While Mr. Cook was near an island which he called the Mayor, theinhabitants of the neighbouring coast displayed many instances ofhostility, and, in their traffic with our navigators, committedvarious acts of fraud and robbery. As the lieutenant intended tocontinue in the place five or six days, in order to make anobservation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary forthe prevention of future mischief, to convince these people that theEnglish were not to be ill treated with impunity. Accordingly, somesmall shot were fired at a thief of uncommon insolence, and a musketball was discharged through the bottom of his boat. Upon this it waspaddled to about a hundred yards' distance; and to the surprise of Mr. Cook and his friends, the Indians in the other canoes took not theleast notice of their wounded companion, though he bled very much, butreturned to the ship, and continued to trade with the most perfectindifference and unconcern. For a considerable time they dealt fairly. At last, however, one of them thought fit to move off with twodifferent pieces of cloth which had been given for the same weapon. When he had gotten to such a distance, that he thought himself secureof his prizes, a musket was fired after him, which fortunately struckthe boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes in her side. This excited such an alarm, that not only the people who were shot at, but all the rest of the canoes, made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of superiority, our commander ordered a round shotto be fired over them, and not a boat stopped till they got to land. After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, Lieutenant Cook wenton shore, with Mr. Green, and proper instruments, to observe thetransit of Mercury. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of the party. Theweather had for some time been very thick, with much rain; but thisday proved so favourable, that not a cloud intervened during the wholetransit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, Mr. Cook being employed in taking the Sun's altitude to ascertain thetime. While the gentlemen were thus engaged on shore, they were alarmed bythe firing of a great gun from the ship: and on their return receivedthe following account of the transaction from Mr. Gore, the secondlieutenant, who had been left commanding officer on board. During thecarrying on of a trade with some small canoes, two very large onescame up full of men. In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons, all of whom were armed with pikes, stones, and darts, and assumed theappearance of a hostile intention. However, after a little time theybegan to traffic, some of them offering their arms, and one of them asquare piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called_haabow_. Mr. Gore having agreed for it, sent down the price, which was a piece of British cloth, and expected his purchase. But assoon as the Indian had gotten Mr. Gore's cloth in his possession, herefused to part with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon beingthreatened for his fraud, he and his companions began to sing theirwar song in defiance, and shook their paddles. Though their insolencedid not proceed to an attack, and only defied Mr. Gore to take anyremedy in his power, he was so provoked, that he levelled a musket, loaded with ball, at the offender, while he was holding the cloth inhis hand, and shot him dead. When the Indian fell, all the canoes putoff to some distance, but continued to keep together in such a mannerthat it was apprehended they might still meditate an attack. To securetherefore a safe passage for the boat of the Endeavour, which waswanted on shore, a round shot was fired with so much effect overtheir heads, as to make them all flee with the utmost precipitation. It was matter of regret to Lieutenant Cook that Mr. Gore had not, inthe case of the offending Indian, tried the experiment of a few smallshot, which had been successful in former instances of robbery. On Friday, the 10th, our commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks and theother gentlemen, went with two boats, to examine a large river thatempties itself into the head of Mercury Bay. As the situation theywere now in abounded with conveniences, the lieutenant has taken careto point them out, for the benefit of future navigators. If anyoccasion should ever render it necessary for a ship either to winterhere, or to stay for a considerable length of time, tents might bebuilt on a high point or peninsula in this place, upon groundsufficiently spacious for the purpose; and they might easily be madeimpregnable to the whole force of the country. Indeed the most skilfulengineer in Europe could not choose a situation better adapted toenable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. Amongother accommodations which the Endeavour's company met with in MercuryBay, they derived an agreeable refreshment from some oyster beds, which they had fortunately discovered. The oysters, which were as goodas ever came from Colchester, and about the same size, were soplentiful, that not the boat only, but the ship itself, might havebeen loaded in one tide. On Wednesday, the 15th, Lieutenant Cook sailed out of Mercury Bay. This name has been given to it, on account of the observation whichhad there been made of the transit of that planet over the sun. Theriver where oysters had been so plentifully found, he called OysterRiver. There is another river, at the head of the Bay, which is thebest and safest place for a ship that wants to stay any length oftime. From the number of mangroves about it, the lieutenant named itMangrove River. In several parts of Mercury Bay, our voyagers saw, thrown upon the shore, great quantities of iron sand, which is broughtdown by every little rivulet of freshwater that finds its way from thecountry. This is a demonstration, that there is ore of that metal notfar inland; and yet none of the inhabitants of New Zealand, who hadyet been seen, knew the use of iron, or set upon it the least degreeof value. They had all of them preferred the most worthless anduseless trifle not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. Before the Endeavour left the bay, the ship's name and that of thecommander were cut upon one of the trees near the watering place, together with the date of the year and month when our navigators werethere. Besides this, Mr. Cook, after displaying the English colourstook formal possession of the place in the name of his BritannicMajesty, King George the Third. In the range from Mercury Bay, several canoes, on the 18th, put offfrom different places, and advanced towards the Endeavour. When two ofthem, in which there might be about sixty men, came within the reachof the human voice, the Indians sung their war song, but seeing thatlittle notice was taken of them, they threw a few stones at theEnglish, and then rowed off towards the shore. In a short time, however, they returned, as if with a fixed resolution to provoke ourvoyagers to a battle, animating themselves by their song as they haddone before. Tupia, without any directions from the gentlemen of theEndeavour, began to expostulate with the natives, and told them thatour people had weapons which could destroy them in a moment. Theiranswer to this expostulation was, in their own language, 'Come onshore, and we will kill you all. '--'Well, ' replied Tupia, 'but whyshould you molest us while we are at sea? As we do not wish to fight, we shall not accept your challenge to come on shore; and here there isno pretence for a quarrel, the sea being no more your property thanthe ship. ' This eloquence, which greatly surprised Lieutenant Cook andhis friends, as they had not suggested to Tupia any of the argumentshe made use of, produced no effect upon the minds of the Indians, whosoon renewed their attack. The oratory of a musket, which was firedthrough one of their boats, quelled their courage, and sent theminstantly away. While our commander was in the Bay of Islands, he had a favourableopportunity of examining the interior part of the country and itsproduce. At daybreak, therefore on the 30th of the month, he set outin the pinnace and long-boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, and found the inlet, at which they entered, end in a river, about nine miles above the ship. Up this river, to which was given thename of the Thames, they proceeded till near noon, when they werefourteen miles within its entrance. As the gentlemen then found theface of the country to continue nearly the same, without anyalteration in the course of the stream, and had no hope of tracing itto its source, they landed on the west side, to take a view of thelofty trees which every where adorned its banks. The trees were of akind which they had seen before, both in Poverty Bay, and Hawke's Bay, though only at a distance. They had not walked a hundred yards intothe woods, when they met with one of the trees, which, at the heightof six feet above the ground, was nineteen feet eight inches in thegirt. Lieutenant Cook, having a quadrant with him, measured its heightfrom the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-ninefeet. It was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little inproportion to its height; so that, in the lieutenant's judgment, theremust have been three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in itexclusive of the branches. As the party advanced, they saw many othertrees, which were still larger. A young one they cut down, the wood ofwhich was heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would makethe finest plank in the world. The carpenter of the ship, who was withthe party, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, which is lightened by tapping. If it should appear, that some suchmethod would be successful in lightening these trees, they would thenfurnish masts superior to those of any country in Europe. As the woodwas swampy, the gentlemen could not range far; but they found manystout trees of other kinds, with which they were totally unacquainted, and specimens of which they brought away. On the 22d, another instance occurred in which the commanding officerleft on board did not know how to exercise his power with the goodsense and moderation of Mr. Cook. While some of the natives were inthe ship below with Mr. Banks, a young man, who was upon the deck, stole a half minute glass, and was detected just as he was carrying itoff. Mr. Hicks, in his indignation against the offender, was pleasedto order that he should be punished, by giving him twelve lashes witha cat o' nine tails. When the other Indians, who were on board, sawhim seized for the purpose, they attempted to rescue him; and beingresisted, they called for their arms, which were handed from thecanoes. At the same time, the people of one of the canoes attempted tocome up the side of the Endeavour. The tumult having called up Mr. Banks and Tupia, the natives ran to the latter, and solicited hisinterposition. All, however, which he could do, as Mr. Hicks continuedinexorable, was to assure them, that nothing was intended against thelife of their companion, and that it was necessary that he shouldsuffer some punishment for his offence. With this explanation theyappeared to be satisfied; and when the punishment had been inflicted, an old man among the spectators, who was supposed to be the criminal'sfather, gave him a severe beating, and sent him down into his canoe. Notwithstanding this, the Indians were far from being reconciled tothe treatment which their countryman had received. Their cheerfulconfidence was gone; and though they promised, at their departure, toreturn with some fish, the English saw them no more. On the 29th of November, Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, andothers with them, were in a situation somewhat critical and alarming. Having landed upon an island in the neighbourhood of Cape Bret, theywere in a few minutes surrounded by two or three hundred people. Though the Indians were all armed, they came on in so confused andstraggling a manner, that it did not appear that any injury wasintended by them; and the English gentlemen were determined thathostilities should not begin on their part. At first the nativescontinued quiet; but their weapons were held ready to strike, and theyseemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While the lieutenantand his friends remained in a state of suspense, another party ofIndians came up; and the boldness of the whole body being increased bythe augmentation of their numbers, they began the dance and song, which are their preludes to a battle. An attempt, that was made by anumber of them, to seize the two boats which had brought our voyagersto land, appeared to be the signal for a general attack. It now becamenecessary for Mr. Cook to exert himself with vigour Accordingly, hedischarged his musket, which was loaded with small shot, at one of theforwardest of the assailants, and Mr. Banks, and two of our men, firedimmediately afterwards. Though this made the natives fall back in someconfusion, nevertheless, one of the chiefs, who was at the distance ofabout twenty yards, had the courage to rally them, and, calling loudlyto his companions, led them on to the charge. Dr. Solander instantlydischarged his piece at this champion, who, upon feeling the shot, stopped short, and then ran away with the rest of his countrymen. Still, however, they did not disperse, but got upon rising ground, andseemed only to want some leader of resolution to renew their assault. As they were now gotten beyond the reach of small shot, the Englishfired with ball, none of which taking place, the Indians continuedtogether in a body. While our people were in this doubtful situation, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the ship, from which a muchgreater number of natives were seen than could be discovered on shore, brought her broad side to bear, and entirely dispersed them, by firinga few shot over their heads. In this skirmish, only two of them werehurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost; a case whichwould not have happened if Lieutenant Cook had not restrained his men, who either from fear or the love of mischief, shewed as muchimpatience to destroy the Indians, as a sportsman to kill his game. Such was the difference between the disposition of the common seamenand marines, and that of their humane and judicious commander. On the same day Mr. Cook displayed a very exemplary act of discipline. Some of the ship's people, who when the natives were to be punishedfor a fraud, assumed the inexorable justice of a Lycurgus, thought fitto break into one of their plantations, and to dig up a quantity ofpotatoes. For this the lieutenant ordered each of them to receivetwelve lashes, after which two of them were discharged. But the third, in a singular strain of morality, insisted upon it, that it was nocrime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian plantation. The methodtaken by our commander to refute his casuistry, was to send him backto his confinement, and not, permit him to be released, till he hadbeen punished with six lashes more. The Endeavour, on the 5th of December, was in the most imminent hazardof being wrecked. At four o'clock in the morning of that day ourvoyagers weighed, with a light breeze; but it being variable withfrequent calms, they made little way. From that time till theafternoon they kept turning out of the bay, and about ten at nightwere suddenly becalmed, so that the ship could neither wear norexactly keep her station. The tide or current setting strong, shedrove toward land so fast; that before any measures could be taken forher security, she was within a cable's length of the breakers. Thoughour people had thirteen fathom water, the ground was so foul, thatthey did not dare to drop their anchor. In this crisis the pinnacebeing immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, and the mensensible of their danger, exerted themselves to the utmost, a faintbreeze sprang up off the land, and our navigators perceived, withunspeakable joy, that the vessel made headway. So near was she to theshore, that Tupia, who was ignorant of the hair's breadth escape thecompany had experienced, was at this very time conversing with theIndians upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar of the breakers. Mr. Cook and his friends nowthought that all danger was over; but about an hour afterwards, justas the man in the chains had cried 'seventeen fathom, ' the shipstruck. The shock threw them into the utmost consternation: and almostinstantly the man in the chains cried out 'five fathom. ' By this time, the rock on which the ship had struck being to the windward, she wentoff without having received the least damage; and the water very soondeepening to twenty fathoms, she again sailed in security. The inhabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to be far morenumerous than in any other part of New Zealand which Lieutenant Cookhad hitherto visited. It did not appear that they were united underone head; and, though their towns were fortified, they seemed to livetogether in perfect amity. The Endeavour on the 9th of December, lying becalmed in Doubtless Bay, an opportunity was taken to inquire of the natives concerning theircountry; and our navigators learned from them, by the help of Tupia, that at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, at a placecalled Moore-Whennua, the land would take a short turn to thesouthward, and thence extend no more to the west. This place theEnglish gentlemen concluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, andwhich had been named by him Cape Maria van Diemen. The lieutenant, finding the inhabitants so intelligent, inquired further, if they knewof any country besides their own. To this they answered, that they hadnever visited any other; but that their ancestors had told them, thatthere was a country of great extent, to the north-west by north, ornorth-north west, called Ulimaroa, to which some people had sailed ina very large canoe; and that only a part of them had returned, whoreported, that, after a passage of a month, they had seen a countrywhere the people eat hogs. On the 30th of December, our navigators saw the land, which theyjudged to be Cape Maria van Diemen, and which corresponded with theaccount that had been given of it by the Indians. The next day, fromthe appearance of Mount Camel, they had a demonstration that, wherethey now were, the breadth of New Zealand could not be more than twoor three miles from sea to sea. During this part of the navigation, two particulars occurred which are very remarkable. In latitude 35° S. And in the midst of summer, Lieutenant Cook met with a gale of wind, which, from its strength and continuance, was such as he had scarcelyever been in before: and he was three weeks in getting ten leagues tothe westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues; for at thistime being the 1st of January, 1770, it was so long since he hadpassed Cape Bret. While the gale lasted, our voyagers ware happily ata considerable distance from the land; since, otherwise, it was highlyprobable that they would never have returned to relate theiradventures. The shore at Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the English had arrived onthe 14th of January, seemed to form several bays, into one of whichthe lieutenant proposed to carry the ship, which was now become veryfoul, in order to careen her, to repair some defects, and to obtain arecruit of wood and water. At day-break, the next morning, he stood infor an inlet, and at eight got within the entrance. At nine o'clock, there being little wind, and what there was being variable, theEndeavour was carried by the tide or current within two cables' lengthof the north-west shore where she had fifty-four fathom water. By thehelp, of the boats she was gotten clear; and about two, our peopleanchored in a very safe and convenient cove. Soon after, Mr. Cook, with most of the gentlemen, landed upon the coast, where they found afine stream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest plenty. Indeed the land, in this part of the country, was one forest, of vastextent. As the gentlemen had brought the seine with them, it washauled once or twice; and with such success, that different sorts offish were caught amounting nearly to three hundred weight. The equaldistribution of these among the ship's company, furnished them with avery agreeable refreshment. When Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and some others, landed on the 16th, they met with an Indian family, among whom theyfound horrid and indisputable proofs of the custom of eating humanflesh. Not to resume so disagreeable a subject, it may here beobserved once for all, that evidences of the same custom appeared onvarious occasions. On the next day a delightful object engaged the attention of ourvoyagers. The ship lying at the distance of somewhat less than aquarter of a mile from the shore, they were awakened by the singing ofan incredible number of birds, who seemed to strain their throats inemulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely superior toany they had ever heard of the same kind, and seemed to be like smallbells, most exquisitely tuned. It is probable, that the distance, andthe water between, might be of no small advantage to the sound. Uponinquiry, the gentlemen were informed, that the birds here always beganto sing about two hours after midnight; and that, continuing theirmusic till sunrise, they were silent the rest of the day. In this lastrespect they resembled the nightingales of our own country. On the 18th, Lieutenant Cook went out in the pinnace to take a view ofthe bay in which the ship was now at anchor; and found it to be ofgreat extent, consisting of numberless small harbours and coves, inevery direction. The lieutenant confined his excursion to the westernside, and the coast where he landed being an impenetrable forest, nothing could be seen worthy of notice. As our commander and hisfriends were returning, they saw a single man in a canoe fishing:rowing up to him, to their great surprise, he took not the leastnotice of them; and even when they were alongside of him, continued tofollow his occupation, without adverting to them any more than if theyhad been invisible. This behaviour was not, however the result eitherof sullenness or stupidity; for upon being requested to draw up hisnet, that it might be examined, he readily complied. He shewedlikewise to our people his mode of fishing, which was simple andingenious. When, on the 19th, the armourer's forge was set up, and all hands onboard were busy in careening, and in other necessary operations aboutthe vessel, some Indians, who had brought plenty of fish, exchangedthem for nails, of which they had now begun to perceive the use andvalue. This may be considered as one instance in which they wereenlightened and benefited by their intercourse with our navigators. While, on the 22d, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander employed themselves inbotanizing near the beach, our commander, taking a seaman with him, ascended one of the hills of the country. Upon reaching its summit, hefound the view of the inlet, the head of which he had a little beforein vain attempted to discover in the pinnace, intercepted by hillsstill higher than that on which he stood, and which were renderedinaccessible by impenetrable woods. He was, however, amply rewardedfor his labour; for he saw the sea on the eastern side of the country, and a passage leading from it to that on the west, a little to theeastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship lay. The mainland, which was on the south-east side of this inlet, appeared to be anarrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the south-westside of the strait. On the opposite side, the land trended away eastas far as the eye could reach; and to the south-east there wasdiscerned an opening to the sea, which washes the eastern coast. Thelieutenant saw also, on the east side of the inlet, some islands whichhe had before taken to be part of the main land. In returning to theship, he examined the harbours and coves that lie behind the islandswhich he had seen from the hills. The next day was employed by him infurther surveys and discoveries. During a visit to the Indians, on the 24th, Tupia being of the party, they were observed to be continually talking of guns and shootingpeople. For this subject of their conversation, the English gentlemencould not at all account. But, after perplexing themselves withvarious conjectures, they at length learned, that, on the 21st, one ofour officers, under the pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up toa hippah, or village, on the coast. When he had done so, two or threecanoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested that an attackwas intended, in consequence of which three muskets were fired, onewith small shot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who retired withthe utmost precipitation. It is highly probable, that they had comeout with friendly intentions, for such intentions were expressed bytheir behaviour, both before and afterwards. This action of theofficer exhibited a fresh instance, how little some of the peopleunder Lieutenant Cook had imbibed of the wise, discreet, and humanespirit of their commander. On the morning of the 26th, the lieutenant went again out in the boat, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and entered one of the bays, whichlie on the east side of the inlet, in order to obtain another sight ofthe strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. Havinglanded, for this purpose, at a convenient place, they climbed a hillof very considerable height, from which they had a full view of thestrait, with the land on the opposite shore, which they judged to beabout four leagues distant. As it was hazy in the horizon, they couldnot see far to the south-east; but Mr. Cook saw enough to determinehim to search the passage with the ship as soon as he should put tosea. The gentlemen found, on the top of the hill, a parcel of loosestones, with which they erected a pyramid, and left in it some musketballs, small shot, beads, and such other things, which they happenedto have about them, as were likely to stand the test of time. These, not being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European, whoshould come to the place and pull it down, that natives of Europe hadbeen there before. After this, the lieutenant and his friends went toa town of which the Indians had informed them, and which, like onethey had already seen, was built upon a small island or rock, sodifficult of access, that they gratified their curiosity at the riskof their lives. Here, as had been the case in former visits to theinhabitants of that part of the country near which the ship now lay, they were received with open arms, carried through the whole of theplace, and shown all that it contained. The town consisted of betweeneighty and a hundred houses, and had only one fighting stage. Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, happened to have with them a fewnails and ribands, and some paper, with which the people were sohighly gratified, that when the gentlemen went away, they filled theEnglish boat with dried fish, of which it appeared that they had laidup large quantities. A report was spread, that one of the men, that had been so rashlyfired upon by the officer who had visited the hippah, under thepretence of fishing, was dead of his wounds. But, on the 29th, thelieutenant had the great consolation of discovering that this reportwas groundless. On the same day he went again on shore, upon thewestern point of the inlet, and, from a hill of considerable height, had a view of the coast to the north-west. The furthest land he couldsee, in that quarter, was an island at the distance of about tenleagues, lying not far from the main. Between this island and theplace were he stood, he discovered, close under the shore, severalother islands, forming many bays, in which there appeared to be goodanchorage for shipping. After he had set off the different points forhis survey, he erected another pile of stones, in which he left apiece of silver coin, with some musket balls and beads, and a fragmentof an old pendant flying at the top. On the 30th of January, the ceremony was performed of giving name tothe inlet where our voyagers now lay, and of erecting a memorial ofthe visit which they had made to this place. The carpenter havingprepared two posts for the purpose, our commander ordered them to beinscribed with the ship's name, and the dates of the year and themonth. One of these he set up at the watering place, hoisting theunion-flag upon the top of it; and the other he carried over to theisland that lies nearest the sea, and which is called by the nativesMotuara. He went first, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and Tupia, to theneighbouring village, or hippah, where he met with an old man, who hadmaintained a friendly intercourse with the English. To this old man, and several Indians besides, the lieutenant, by means of Tupia, explained his design, which, he informed them, was to erect a markupon the island, in order to shew to any other ship, which shouldhappen to come thither, that our navigators had been there before. Tothis the inhabitants readily consented, and promised that they wouldnever pull it down. He then gave something to every one present, andto the old man a silver threepence, and some spike-nails, with theking's broad arrow cut deep upon them. These were things which Mr. Cook thought were the most likely to be long preserved. After this, heconveyed the post to the highest part of the island; and, having fixedit firmly in the ground, hoisted upon it the union flag, and honouredthe inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound. At the same time, be took formal possession of this and the adjacent country, in thename and for the use of his Majesty King George the Third. Theceremony was concluded by the gentlemen's drinking a bottle of wine toher majesty's health; and the bottle being given to the old man, whohad attended them up the hill, he was highly delighted with hispresent. A philosopher, perhaps might inquire on what ground Lieutenant Cookcould take formal possession of this part of New Zealand, in the nameand _for the use_ of the King of Great Britain, when the countrywas already inhabited, and of course belonged to those by whom it wasoccupied, and whose ancestors might have resided in it for manypreceding ages. To this the best answer seems to be, that thelieutenant, in the ceremony performed by him, had no reference to theoriginal inhabitants, or any intention to deprive them of theirnatural rights, but only to preclude the claims of future Europeannavigators, who, under the auspices and for the benefit of theirrespective states or kingdoms, might form pretensions, to which theywere not entitled by prior discovery. On the 31st, our voyagers having completed their wooding, and filledtheir water casks, Mr. Cook sent out two parties, one to cut and makebrooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening there was a stronggale from the north-west, with such a heavy rain, that the little wildmusicians on shore suspended their song, which till now had beenconstantly heard during the night with a pleasure that it wasimpossible to lose without regret. The gale, on the 1st of February, increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the high land, one ofwhich broke the hawser, that had been fastened to the shore, andinduced the necessity of letting go another anchor. Though, towardsmidnight, the gale became more moderate, the rain continued with somuch violence, that the brook, which supplied the ship with water, overflowed its banks; in consequence of which ten small casks, thathad been filled the day before, were carried away, and, notwithstanding the most diligent search for them, could not berecovered. The Endeavour, on Monday the 5th, got under sail; but the wind soonfailing, our commander was obliged again to come to anchor, a littleabove Motuara. As he was desirous of making still further inquiries, whether any memory of Tasman had been preserved in New Zealand, hedirected Tupia to ask of the old man before mentioned, who had come onboard to take his leave of the English gentlemen, whether he had everheard that such a vessel as theirs had before visited the country. Tothis he replied in the negative; but said, that his ancestors had toldhim, that there once had arrived a small vessel from a distant land, called Ulimaroa, in which were four men, who upon their reaching theshore were all killed. On being asked where this country lay, hepointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa, Lieutenant Cook had heardsomething before, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who said, that it had been visited by their ancestors. Tupia had also someconfused traditionary notions concerning it; but no certain conclusioncould be drawn either from his account or that of the old Indian. Soon after the ship came to anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had gone on shore to see if any gleanings of naturalknowledge remained, fell in, by accident, with the most agreeableIndian family they had yet seen, and which afforded them a betteropportunity of remarking the personal subordination among the natives, than had before offered. The whole behaviour of this family wasaffable, obliging, and unsuspicious. It was matter of sincere regretto the two gentlemen, that they had not sooner met with these people, as a better acquaintance with the manners and disposition of theinhabitants of the country might hence have been obtained in a day, than had been acquired during the whole stay of the English upon thecoast. When, on the 6th of February, Lieutenant Cook had gotten out of thesound, he stood over to the eastward, in order to get the strait wellopen before the tide of ebb approached. At seven in the evening, twosmall islands, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the south-east head ofQueen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, at the distance of about fourmiles. It was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, theEndeavour, in a very short time, was carried by the rapidity of thestream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almostperpendicularly out of the sea. The danger increased every moment, andthere was but one expedient to prevent the ship's being dashed topieces, the success of which a few moments would determine. She wasnow within little more than a cable's length of the rock, and hadabove seventy-five fathom water. But, upon dropping an anchor, andveering above one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, she was happilybrought up. This, however would not have saved our navigators, if thetide, which set south by east, had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its direction to the south-east, and carried them beyond thefirst point. In this situation they were not above two cables' lengthfrom the rocks; and here they remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the south-east, after the rate of at least five miles anhour from a little after seven till midnight, when the tide abated, and the vessel began to heave. By three in the morning, a light breezeat north-west having sprung up, our voyagers sailed for the easternshore; though they made but little way, in consequence of the tidebeing against them. The wind, however, having afterwards freshened, and come to north and north-east, with this, and the tide of ebb, theywere in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the strait, and then stood away for the southernmost land they had in prospect. There appeared, over this land, a mountain of stupendous height, whichwas covered with snow. The narrowest part of the strait, through whichthe Endeavour had been driven with such rapidity, lies between CapeTierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo; thedistance between which our commander judged to be four or fiveleagues. Notwithstanding the difficulties arising from this tide, nowits strength is known, the strait may be passed without danger. Some of the officers started a notion, that Eaheinomauwe was not anisland, and that the land might stretch away to the south-east, frombetween Cape Turnagain and Cape Palliser, there being a space ofbetween twelve and fifteen leagues which had not yet been seen. ThoughLieutenant Cook, from what he had observed the first time hediscovered the strait, and from many other concurrent circumstances, had the strongest conviction that they were mistaken, he, nevertheless, resolved to leave no possibility of doubt with respectto an object of so much importance. For this purpose he gave such adirection to the navigation of the ship, as would most effectuallytend to determine the matter. After a course of two days he called theofficers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not nowsatisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. To this question theyreadily answered in the affirmative; and all doubts being removed, thelieutenant proceeded to farther researches. During Mr. Cook's long and minute examination of the coast of NewZealand, he gave names to the bays, capes, promontories, islands, andrivers, and other places which were seen or visited by him; exceptingin those cases where their original appellations were learned from thenatives. The names he fixed upon were either derived from certaincharacteristic or adventitious circumstances, or were conferred inhonour of his friends and acquaintance, chiefly those of the navalline. Such of the readers of the present work as desire to beparticularly informed concerning them, will naturally have recourse tothe indications of them in the several maps on which they aredescribed. The ascertaining of New Zealand to be an island did not concludeLieutenant Cook's examination of the nature, situation, and extent ofthe country. After this, he completed his circumnavigation, by rangingfrom Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern coast of Poenammoo, round Cape South, and back to the western entrance of the strait behad passed, and which was very properly named Cook's Strait. Thisrange, which commenced on the 9th of February, I shall not minutelyand regularly pursue; but content myself, as in the former course, with mentioning such circumstances as are more directly adapted to myimmediate design. In the afternoon of the 14th, when Mr. Banks was out in the boat ashooting, our voyagers saw, with their glasses, four double canoes putoff from the shore towards him, having on board fifty-seven men. Thelieutenant, being alarmed for the safety of his friend, immediatelyordered signals to be made for his return; but he was prevented fromseeing them by the situation of the gun with regard to the ship. However, it was soon with pleasure observed, that his boat was inmotion; and he was taken on board before the Indians, who perhaps hadnot discerned him, came up. Their attention seemed to be wholly fixedupon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast of her, and thenstopped, gazing at the English with a look of vacant astonishment. Tupia in vain exerted his eloquence to prevail upon them to make anearer approach. After surveying our navigators some time, they leftthem, and made towards the shore. The gentlemen could not helpremarking, on this occasion, the different dispositions and behaviourof the different inhabitants of the country, at the first sight of theEndeavour. The people now seen kept aloof with a mixture of timidityand wonder; others had immediately commenced hostilities; the man whowas found fishing alone in his canoe appeared to regard our voyagersas totally unworthy of notice; and some had come on board almostwithout invitation, and with an air of perfect confidence and goodwill. From the conduct of the last visitors, Lieutenant Cook gave theland from which they had put off, and which had the appearance of anisland, the name of Lookers-on. When an island, which lies about five leagues from the coast ofTovy-Poenammoo, and which was named Banks's Island, was firstdiscovered in the direction of south by west, some persons on boardwere of opinion, that they saw land bearing south-south-east, andsouth-east by east. Our commander, who was himself upon the deck atthe time, told them that in his judgment it was no more than a cloud, which, as the sun rose, would dissipate and vanish. Being, howeverdetermined to leave no subject for disputation which experiment couldremove, he ordered the ship to steer in the direction which thesupposed country was said to bear. Having gone in this direction eightand twenty miles, without discovering any signs of land, the Endeavourresumed her intended course to the southward, it being the particularview of the lieutenant to ascertain whether Poenammoo was an island ora continent. In passing some rocks on the 9th of March, in the night, it appearedin the morning that the ship had been in the most imminent danger. Herescape was indeed critical in the highest degree. To these rocks, therefore, which, from their situation, are so well adapted to catchunwary strangers, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Traps. On the same dayhe reached a point of land which he called the South Cape, and whichhe supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, the southern extremityof the country. In sailing, on Wednesday the 14th, the Endeavour passed a small narrowopening in the land, where there seemed to be a very safe andconvenient harbour, formed by an island which lay eastward in themiddle of the opening. On the land, behind the opening, are mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow, that appeared to haverecently fallen. Indeed our voyagers for two days past, had found theweather extremely cold. On each side the entrance of the opening, theland rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a stupendous height. For this reason Lieutenant Cook did not choose to carry the ship intothe harbour. He was sensible that no wind could blow there but rightin or right out: and he did not think it by any means advisable to putinto a place whence he could not have gotten out, but with a wind, which, experience had taught him did not blow more than one day in amonth. Sagacious as this determination of our commander was, it didnot give universal satisfaction. He acted in it contrary to theopinion of some persons on board, who expressed in strong terms theirdesire of coming to harbour; not sufficiently considering, thatpresent convenience ought not to be purchased at the expense ofincurring great future disadvantages. By the 27th of March, Mr. Cook had circumnavigated the whole countryof Tovy-Poenammoo, and arrived within sight of the island formerlymentioned, which lies at the distance of nine leagues from theentrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having at this time thirty tonsof empty water-casks on board, it was necessary to fill them before hefinally proceeded on his voyage. For this purpose he hauled round theisland, and entered a bay, situated between that and Queen Charlotte'sSound, and to which the name was given of Admiralty Bay. The business of wooding and watering having been completed on the30th, and the ship being ready for the sea, the point now to bedetermined was, what rout should be pursued in returning home, thatwould be of most advantage to the public service. Upon this subjectthe lieutenant thought proper to take the opinion of his officers. Hehad himself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that wouldhave enabled him to determine, whether there is or is not a southerncontinent. But against this scheme it was a sufficient objection, thatour navigators must have kept in a high southern latitude, in the verydepth of winter, and in a vessel which was not thought to be in acondition fit for the undertaking. The same reason was urged withstill greater force, against their proceeding directly for the Cape ofGood Hope, because no discovery of moment could be expected in thatrout. It was therefore resolved that they should return by the EastIndies; and that, with this view, they should steer westward, tillthey should fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and thenfollow the direction of that coast to the northward, till they shouldarrive at its northern extremity. If that should be foundimpracticable, it was further resolved, that they should endeavour tofall in with the land, or islands, said to have been discovered byQuiros. In the six months which Lieutenant Cook had spent in the examinationof New Zealand, he made very large additions to the knowledge ofgeography and navigation. That country was first discovered in theyear 1642, by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navigator. He traversed theeastern coast from latitude 34° 43', and entered the strait now calledCook's Strait; but being attacked by the natives soon after he came toan anchor, in the place which he named Murderer's Bay, he never wenton shore. Nevertheless, he assumed a kind of claim of the country, bycalling it Staaten Land, or the Land of the States, in honour of theStates General. It is now usually distinguished in maps and charts bythe name of New Zealand. The whole of the country, excepting that partof the coast which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship, continued from his time, to the voyage of the Endeavour, altogetherunknown. By many persons it has been supposed to constitute a part ofa southern continent; but it was now ascertained by Mr. Cook toconsist of two large islands, divided from each other by a strait orpassage, which is about four or five leagues broad. These islands aresituated between the latitudes of 34° and 48° south, and between thelongitudes of 181° and 194° west; a matter which Mr. Green determinedwith uncommon exactness, from innumerable observations of the sun andmoon, and one of the transits of Mercury. The northernmost of theseislands is called by the natives Eaheinomauwe, and the southernmostTovy, or Tavai Poenammoo. It is not, however, certain, whether thewhole southern island, or only part of it, is comprehended under thelatter name. Tovy Poenammoo is principally a mountainous, and to all appearance abarren country. The only inhabitants and signs of inhabitants thatwere discovered upon all the islands, were the people whom ourvoyagers saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, some that came off to themunder the snowy mountains, and several fires which were discerned tothe west of Cape Saunders. Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance. Though it is not only hilly but mountainous, even the hills andmountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet ofwater. The soil in these valleys and in the plains, many of which arenot overgrown with wood, is in general light, but fertile. It was theopinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, as well as of the othergentlemen on board, that all kinds of European grain, plants, andfruit would flourish here in the utmost luxuriance. There is reason toconclude, from the vegetables which our navigators found inEaheinomauwe, that the winters are milder than those in England; andthe summer was experienced not to be hotter, though it was moreequally warm. If this country, therefore, should be settled by peoplefrom Europe, they might, with a little industry, very soon be suppliedin great abundance, not merely with the necessaries, but even with theluxuries of life. In Eaheinomauwe there are no quadrupeds but dogs and rats. At least, no other were seen by our voyagers; and the rats are so scarce thatthey wholly escaped the notice of many on board. Of birds the speciesare not numerous; and of these no one kind, excepting perhaps thegannet, is exactly the same with those of Europe. Insects are not ingreater plenty than birds. The sea makes abundant recompense for thisscarcity of animals upon the land. Every creek swarms with fish, whichare not only wholesome, but equally delicious with those in our partof the world. The Endeavour seldom anchored in any station, or with alight gale passed any place, that did not afford enough, with hook andline, to serve the whole ship's company. If the seine were made use ofit seldom failed of producing a still more ample supply. The highestluxury of this kind, with which the English were gratified was thelobster, or sea cray-fish. Among the vegetable productions of thecountry, the trees claim a principal place; there being forests ofvast extent full of the straightest, the cleanest, and the largesttimber Mr. Cook and his friends had ever seen. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were gratified by the novelty, if not by the variety of theplants. Out of about four hundred species, there were not many whichhad hitherto been described by botanists. There is one plant thatserves the natives instead of hemp and flax, and which excels all thatare applied to the same purposes in other countries. If the settling of New Zealand should ever be deemed an objectdeserving the attention of Great Britain, our commander thought thatthe best place for establishing a colony would either be on the banksof the Thames, or in the territory adjoining to the Bay of Islands. Each of these places possess the advantage of an excellent harbour. Bymeans of the river, settlements might be extended, and a communicationestablished with the inland parts of the country. Vessels mightlikewise be built of the fine timber which is every where to be metwith, at very little trouble and expense. But I am in danger of forgetting myself, and of running into a detailwhich may be thought rather to exceed the intentions of the presentnarrative. It is difficult to restrain the pen, when such a variety ofcurious and entertaining matter lies before it; and I must entreat theindulgence of my readers while I mention two or three furtherparticulars. One circumstance peculiarly worthy of notice, is theperfect and uninterrupted health of the inhabitants of New Zealand. Inall the visits made to their towns, where old and young, men andwomen, crowded about our voyagers, they never observed a single personwho appeared to have any bodily complaint; nor among the numbers thatwere seen naked, was once perceived the slightest eruption upon theskin, or the least mark which indicated that such an eruption had, formerly existed. Another proof of the health of these people is thefacility with which the wounds they at any time receive are healed. Inthe man who had been shot with a musket ball through the fleshy partof his arm, the wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair away of being perfectly healed, that if Mr. Cook had not known that noapplication had been made to it, he declared that he certainly shouldhave inquired, with a very interested curiosity, after the vulneraryherbs and surgical art of the country. An additional evidence of humannature's being untainted with disease in New Zealand, is the greatnumber of old men with whom it abounds. Many of them, by the loss oftheir hair and teeth, appeared to be very ancient and yet none of themwere decrepid. Although they were not equal to the young in muscularstrength, they did not come in the least behind them with regard tocheerfulness and vivacity. Water, as far as our navigators coulddiscover, is the universal and only liquor of the New Zealanders. Itis greatly to be wished, that their happiness in this respect maynever be destroyed by such a connexion with the European nations, asshall introduce that fondness for spirituous liquors, which hath beenso fatal to the Indians of North America. From the observations which Lieutenant Cook and his friends made onthe people of New Zealand, and from the similitude which was discernedbetween them and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, a strongproof arose, that both of them had one common origin; and this proofwas rendered indubitable by the conformity of their language. WhenTupia addressed himself to the natives of Eaheinomauwe and Poenammoo, he was perfectly understood. Indeed it did not appear that thelanguage of Otaheite differed more from that of New Zealand, than thelanguage of the two islands into which it is divided, did from eachother. Hitherto the navigation of Lieutenant Cook had been unfavourable tothe notion of a southern continent; having swept away at leastthree-fourths of the positions upon which that notion had beenfounded. The track of the Endeavour had demonstrated, that the landseen by Tasman, Juan Fernandes, Hermite, the commander of a Dutchsquadron, Quiros, and Roggewein, was not, as they had supposed, partof such a continent. It had also totally destroyed the theoreticalarguments in favour of a southern continent, which had been drawn fromthe necessity of it to preserve an equilibrium between the twohemispheres. As, however, Mr. Cook's discoveries, so far as he hadalready proceeded, extended only to the northward of forty degrees, south latitude, he could not therefore give an opinion concerning whatland might lie farther to the southward. This was a matter, therefore, which he earnestly wished to be examined; and to him at length wasreserved the honour, as we shall hereafter see, of putting a final endto the question. On Saturday the 31st of March, our commander sailed from Cape Farewellin New Zealand, and pursued his voyage to the westward. New Holland, or as it is now called, New South Wales, came in sight on the 19th ofApril; and on the 28th of that month the ship anchored in Botany Bay. On the preceding day, in consequence of its falling calm when thevessel was not more than a mile and a half from the shore and withinsome breakers, our navigators had been in a very disagreeablesituation; but happily a light breeze had sprung from the land, andcarried them out of danger. In the afternoon the boats were manned; and Lieutenant Cook and hisfriends, having Tupia of their party, set out from the Endeavour. Theyintended to land where they had seen some Indians, and began to hope, that as these Indians had paid no regard to the ship when she cameinto the bay, they would be as inattentive to the advances of theEnglish towards the shore. In this, however, the gentlemen weredisappointed: for as soon as they approached the rocks, two of the mencame down upon them to dispute their landing, and the rest ran away. These champions, who were armed with lances about ten feet long, called to our navigators in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonantlanguage, of which even Tupia did not understand a single word. At thesame time, they brandished their weapons, and seemed resolved todefend their coast to the utmost, though they were but two to forty. The lieutenant, who could not but admire their courage, and who wasunwilling that hostilities should commence with such inequality offorce on their side, ordered his boat to lie upon her oars. He and theother gentlemen then parlied with them by signs; and to obtain theirgood-will, he threw them nails, beads, and several trifles besides, with which they appeared to be well pleased. After this our commanderendeavoured to make them understand that he wanted water, andattempted to convince them by all the methods in his power, that hehad no injurious designs against them. Being willing to interpret thewaving of their hands as an invitation to proceed, the boat put in tothe shore; but no sooner was this perceived, than it was opposed bythe two Indians, one of whom seemed to be a youth about nineteen ortwenty years old, and the other a man of middle age. The only measurenow left for Mr. Cook was to fire a musket between them which beingdone, the youngest of them brought a bundle of lances on the rock, butrecollecting himself in an instant he snatched them up again in greathaste. A stone was then thrown at the English, upon which thelieutenant ordered a musket to be fired with small shot. This struckthe eldest upon the legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses, which was at about a hundred yards distance. Mr. Cook, who now hopedthat the contest was over, instantly landed with his party; but theyhad scarcely quitted the boat when the Indian returned, having onlyleft the rocks to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon ashe came up, he and his comrade threw each of them a lance in the midstof our people, but happily without hurting a single person. At thefiring of a third musket, one of the two men darted another lance, andthen both of them ran away. After this the gentlemen repaired to thehuts, and threw into the house where the children were, some beads, ribbons, pieces of cloth, and other presents. These they hoped wouldprocure them the good will of the inhabitants. When, however, thelieutenant and his companions returned the next day, they had themortification of finding that the beads and ribbons, which they hadleft the night before, had not been removed from their places, andthat not an Indian was to be seen. Several of the natives of the country came in sight on the 30th, butthey could not be engaged to begin an intercourse with our people. They approached within a certain distance of them, and, after shoutingseveral times, went back into the woods. Having done this once more, Mr. Cook followed them himself, alone and unarmed, a considerable wayalong the shore, but without prevailing upon them to stop. On the 1st of May, he resolved to make an excursion into the country. Accordingly, our commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and seven others, all of them properly accoutred for the expedition, set out, andrepaired first to the huts near the watering-place, whither some ofthe Indians continued every day to resort. Though the little presentswhich had been left there before had not yet been taken away, ourgentlemen added others of still greater value, consisting of cloth, beads, combs, and looking-glasses. After this they went up into thecountry, the face of which is finely diversified by wood and lawn. Thesoil they found to be either swamp or light sand. [6] [Footnote 6: In a part of the country that was afterwards examined, the soil was found to be much richer; being a deep black mould, which the lieutenant thought very fit for the production of grain of any kind. ] In cultivating the ground, there would be no obstruction from thetrees, which are tall, straight, and without underwood, and stand at asufficient distance from each other. Between the trees, the land isabundantly covered with grass. Our voyagers saw many houses of theinhabitants, but met with only one of the people, who ran away as soonas he discovered the English. At every place where they went they leftpresents, hoping that at length they might procure the confidence andgood will of the Indians. They perceived some traces of animals; andthe trees over their heads abounded with birds of various kinds, amongwhich were many of exquisite beauty. Loriquets and cockatoos, inparticular, were so numerous, that they flew in flocks of severalscores together. While the lieutenant and his friends were upon this excursion, Mr. Gore, who had been sent out in the morning to dredge for oysters, having performed that service, dismissed his boat, and taking amidshipman with him, set out to join the waterers by land. In his way, he fell in with a body of two and twenty Indians, who followed him, and were often at no greater distance than that of twenty yards. Whenhe perceived them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon whichthey likewise stopped; and when he went on again, they continued theirpursuit. But though they were all armed with lances, they did notattack Mr. Gore; so that he and the midshipman got in safety to thewatering-place. When the natives came in sight of the main body of theEnglish, they halted at about the distance of a quarter of a mile, andstood still. By this Mr. Monkhouse and two or three of the watererswere encouraged to march up to them; but seeing the Indians keep theirground, they were seized with a sudden fear which is not uncommon tothe rash and foolhardy, and made a hasty retreat. This step increasedthe danger which it was intended to avoid. Four of the Indiansimmediately ran forwards, and discharged their lances at thefugitives, with such force that they went beyond them. Our peoplerecovering their spirits, stopped to collect the lances, upon whichthe natives, in their turn, began to retire. At this time Mr. Cookcame up, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia; and being desirousof convincing the Indians that they were neither afraid of them, nordesigned to do them any injury, they advanced towards them, endeavouring, by signs of expostulation and entreaty, to engage themto an intercourse but without effect. From the boldness which the natives discovered on the first landing ofour voyagers, and the terror that afterward seized them at the sightof the English, it appears that they were sufficiently intimidated byour fire-arms. There was not indeed, the least reason to believe thatany of them had been much hurt by the small shot which had been firedat them when they attacked our people on their coming out of the boat. Nevertheless, they had probably seen from their lurking places, theeffects which the muskets had upon birds. Tupia, who was become a goodmarksman, frequently strayed abroad to shoot parrots; and while he wasthus employed, he once met with nine Indians, who, as soon as theyperceived that he saw them, ran from him, in great alarm andconfusion. While on the 3rd of May, Mr. Banks was gathering plants near thewatering-place, Lieutenant Cook went with Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse, to the head of the bay, for the purpose of examining thatpart of the country, and of making further attempts to form someconnexions with the natives. In this excursion they acquiredadditional knowledge concerning the nature of the soil, and itscapacities for cultivation, but had no success in their endeavours toengage the inhabitants in coming to a friendly intercourse. Severalparties, that were sent into the country, on the next day, with thesame view, were equally unsuccessful. In the afternoon our commanderhimself, with a number of attendants, made an excursion to the northshore, which he found to be without wood, and to resemble in somedegree, our moors in England. The surface of the ground was, however, covered with a thin brush of plants, rising to about the height of theknee. Near the coast, the hills are low, but there are others behindthem, which gradually ascend to a considerable distance, and areintersected with marshes and morasses. Among the articles of fishwhich, at different times were caught, were large stingrays. One ofthem, when his entrails were taken out, weighed three hundred andthirty-six pounds. It was upon account of the great quantity of plants which Mr. Banksand Dr. Solander collected in this place, that Lieutenant Cook wasinduced to give it the name of Botany Bay. It is situated in thelatitude of 34° south, and in the longitude of 208° 37' west; andaffords a capacious, safe, and convenient shelter for shipping. TheEndeavour anchored near the south shore, about a mile within theentrance, for the convenience of sailing with a southerly wind, andbecause the lieutenant thought it the best situation for watering. Butafterward he found a very fine stream on the north shore, where was asandy cove, in which a ship might lie almost land-locked, and procurewood and water to the greatest abundance. Though wood is every whereplentiful our commander saw only two species of it that could beconsidered as timber. Not only the inhabitants who were firstdiscovered, but all who afterward came in sight, were entirely naked. Of their mode of life, our voyagers could know but little, as not theleast connexion could be formed with them; but it did not appear thatthey were numerous, or that they lived in societies. They seemed, likeother animals, to be scattered about along the coast, and in thewoods. Not a single article was touched by them of all that were leftat their huts, or at the places which they frequented; so little sensehad they of those small conveniences and ornaments, which aregenerally very alluring to the uncivilized tribes of the globe. DuringMr. Cook's stay at this place, he caused the English colours to bedisplayed every day on shore, and took care that the ship's name, andthe date of the year, should be inscribed upon one of the trees nearthe watering-place. At day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May, our navigators sailed fromBotany Bay; and as they proceeded on their voyage, the lieutenant gavethe names that are indicated upon the map to the bays, capes, points, and remarkable hills which successively appeared in sight. On the14th, as the Endeavour advanced to the northward, being then inlatitude 30° 22' south, and longitude 206° 39' west, the landgradually increased in height, so that it may be called a hillycountry. Between this latitude and Botany Bay, it exhibits a pleasingvariety of ridges, hills, valleys and plains, all clothed with wood, of the same appearance with that which has been mentioned before. Theland near the shore is in general low and sandy, excepting the points, which are rocky, and over many of which are high hills, that, at theirfirst rising out of the water, have the semblance of islands. On thenext day, the vessel being about a league from the shore, our voyagersdiscovered smoke in many places, and having recourse to their glasses, they saw about twenty of the natives, who had each of them a largebundle upon his back. The bundles our people conjectured to be palmleaves for covering the houses of the Indians, and continued toobserve them above an hour, during which they walked upon the beach, and up a path that led over a hill of gentle ascent. It wasremarkable, that not one of them was seen to stop and look towards theEndeavour. They marched along without the least apparent emotioneither of curiosity or surprise, though it was impossible that theyshould not have discerned the ship, by some casual glance, as theywent along the shore, and though she must have been the moststupendous and unaccountable object they had ever beheld. While on the 17th, our navigators were in a bay, to which LieutenantCook had given the name of Moreton's Bay, and at a place were the landwas not at that time visible, some on board, having observed that thesea looked paler than usual, were of opinion that the bottom of thebay opened into a river. The lieutenant was sensible that there was noreal ground for this supposition. As the Endeavour had herethirty-four fathom water, and a fine sandy bottom, these circumstancesalone were sufficient to produce the change which had been noticed inthe colour of the sea. Nor was it by any means necessary, to suppose ariver, in order to account for the land at the bottom of the bay notbeing visible. If the land there was as low as it had been experiencedto be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would be impossible tosee it from the station of the ship. Our commander would, however, have brought the matter to the test of experiments, if the wind hadbeen favourable to such a purpose. Should any future navigator bedisposed to determine the question, whether there is or is not a riverin this place, Mr. Cook has taken care to leave the best directionsfor finding its situation. On the 22nd, as our voyagers were pursuing their course from Harvey'sBay, they discovered with their glasses that the land was covered withpalm-nut trees, which they had not seen from the time of their leavingthe islands within the tropic. They saw also two men walking along theshore, who paid them as little attention, as they had met with onformer occasions. At eight o'clock in the evening of this day, theship came to an anchor in five fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. Earlyin the morning of the next day, the lieutenant, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, Tupia, and a party of men, went on shore in order to examine the country. The wind blew fresh, and the weather was so cold, that being at a considerable distancefrom land, they took their cloaks as a necessary equipment for thevoyage. When they landed, they found a channel leading into a largelagoon. Both the channel and the lagoon were examined by our commanderwith his usual accuracy. There is in the place a small river of freshwater, and room for a few ships to lie in great security. Near thelagoon grows the true mangrove, such as exists in the West Indiaislands, and the first of the kind that had been yet met with by ournavigators. Among the shoals and sand banks of the coast, they sawmany large birds, and some in particular of the same kind which theyhad seen in Botany Bay. These they judged to be pelicans, but theywere so shy as never to come within reach of a musket. On the shorewas found a species of the bustard, one of which was shot that wasequal in size to a turkey, weighing seventeen pounds and a half. Allthe gentlemen agreed that this was the best bird they had eaten sincethey left England; and in honour of it they called the inlet BustardBay. Upon the mud banks, and under the mangroves, were innumerableoysters of various kinds, and among others the hammer oyster, with alarge proportion of small pearl oysters. If in deeper water thereshould be equal plenty of such oysters at their full growth, Mr. Cookwas of opinion that a pearl fishery might be established here to verygreat advantage. The people who were left on board the ship asserted, that, while thegentlemen were in the woods, about twenty of the natives came down tothe beach, abreast of the Endeavour, and, after having looked at herfor some time, went away. Not a single Indian was seen by thegentlemen themselves, though they found various proofs, in smoke, fires, and the fragments of recent meals, that the country wasinhabited. The place seemed to be much trodden, and yet not a house, or the remains of a house, could be discerned. Hence the lieutenantand his friends were disposed to believe, that the people weredestitute of dwellings, as well as of clothes; and that like the othercommoner of nature, they spent their nights in the open air. Tupiahimself was struck with their apparently unhappy condition; andshaking his head, with an air of superiority and compassion, said thatthey were taata enos, 'poor wretches. ' On the 25th, our voyagers, at the distance of one mile from the land, were abreast of a point, which Mr. Cook found to lie directly underthe tropic of Capricorn; and for this reason he called it CapeCapricorn. In the night of the next day, when the ship had anchored ata place which was distant four leagues from Cape Capricorn, the tiderose and fell near seven feet; and the flood set to the westward, andthe ebb to the eastward. This circumstance was just the reverse ofwhat had been experienced when the Endeavour was at anchor to theeastward of Bustard Bay. While our people were under sail, on the 26th, and were surroundedwith islands, which lay at different distance from the main land, theysuddenly fell into three fathom of water. Upon this the lieutenantanchored, and sent away the master to sound a channel, which laybetween the northernmost island and the main. Though the channelappeared to have a considerable breadth, our commander suspected it tobe shallow, and such was in fact the case. The master reported, at hisreturn, that he had only two fathom and a half in many places; andwhere the vessel lay at anchor, she had only sixteen feet, which wasnot two feet more than she drew. Mr. Banks who, while the master wassounding the channel, tried to fish from the cabin window with hookand line, was successful in catching two sort of crabs, both of themsuch as our navigators had not seen before. One of them was adornedwith a most beautiful blue, in every respect equal to the ultramarine. With this blue all his claws and joints are deeply tinged; while theunder part of him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that tocolour and brightness it bore an exact resemblance to the white of oldchina. The other crab was also marked, though somewhat more sparingly, with the ultramarine on his joints and his toes; and on his back werethree brown spots of a singular appearance. Early the next morning, Lieutenant Cook, having found the passagebetween the Islands, sailed to the northward, and, on the evening ofthe succeeding day, anchored at about two miles distance from themain. At this time a great number of islands, lying a long way withoutthe ship, were in sight. On the 29th, the lieutenant sent away themaster with two boats to sound the entrance of an inlet, which lay tothe west, and into which he intended to go with the vessel, that hemight wait a few days for the moon's increase, and have an opportunityof examining the country. As the tide was observed to ebb and flowconsiderably, when the Endeavour had anchored within the inlet, ourcommander judged it to be a river, that might run pretty far up intoland. Thinking that this might afford a commodious situation forlaying the ship ashore, and cleaning her bottom, he landed with themaster, in search of a proper place for the purpose. He wasaccompanied in the excursion by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and theyfound walking exceedingly troublesome, in consequence of the ground'sbeing covered with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharpand bearded. Whenever these seeds stuck into their clothes, whichhappened at every step, they worked forward by means of the beard, till they got at the flesh. Another disagreeable circumstance was, that the gentlemen were incessantly tormented with the stings of acloud of musquitos. They soon met with several places where the shipmight conveniently be laid ashore; but were much disappointed in notbeing able to find any fresh water. In proceeding up the country theyfound gum trees, the gum upon which existed only to very smallquantities. Gum trees of a similar kind and as little productive, hadoccurred in other parts of the coast of New South Wales. Upon thebranches of the trees were ants' nests, made of clay as big as abushel. The ants themselves, by which the nests were inhabited, weresmall, and their bodies white. Upon another species of the gum trees, was found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and, having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe in which it had beencontained. Notwithstanding this, the parts in which these insects, toan amazing number, had formed a lodgment, bore leaves and flowers, andappeared to be entirely in a flourishing state. Butterflies were foundin such multitudes, that the account of them seems almost to beincredible. The air was so crowded with them, for the space of threeor four acres, that millions might be seen in every direction; and thebranches and twigs of the trees were at the same time covered withothers that were not upon the wing. A small fish a of singular kindwas likewise met with in this place. Its size was about that of aminnow, and it had two very strong breast-fins. It was found in placeswhich were quite dry, and where it might be supposed that it had beenleft by the tide; and yet it did not appear to have become languidfrom that circumstance: for when it was approached, it leaped away asnimbly as a frog. Indeed it did not seem to prefer water to land. Though the curiosity of Mr. Cook and his friends was gratified by thesight of these various objects, they were disappointed in theattainment of their main purpose, the discovery of fresh water; and asecond excursion, which was made by them on the afternoon of the sameday, was equally unsuccessful. The failure of the lieutenant's hopesdetermined him to make but a short stay in the place. Having, however, observed from an eminence, that the inlet penetrated a considerableway into the country, he formed a resolution of tracing it in themorning. Accordingly, at sunrise, on Wednesday the 30th of May, hewent on shore, and took a view of the coast and the islands that lieoff it with their bearings. For this purpose he had with him anazimuth compass; but he found, that the needle differed veryconsiderably in its position, even to thirty degrees; the variationbeing in some places more, in others less. Once the needle varied fromitself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. Mr. Cook having taken up some of the loose stones which lay upon theground, applied them to the needle, but they produced no effect;whence he concluded that in the hills there was iron ore, traces ofwhich he had remarked both here and in the neighbouring parts. Afterhe had made his observations upon the hill, he proceeded with Dr. Solander up the inlet. He set out with the first of the flood, and hadadvanced above eight leagues, long before it was high-water. Thebreadth of the inlet, thus far, was from two to five miles, upon adirection south-west by south; but here it opened every way, andformed a large lake, which to the north-west communicated with thesea. Our commander not only saw the sea in this direction, but foundthe tide of flood coming strongly in from that point. He observed, also, an arm of this lake extending to the eastward. Hence he thoughtit not improbable, that it might communicate with the sea in thebottom of the bay, which lies to the westward of the Cape, that on thechart is designated by the name of Cape Townshend. On the south sideof the lake is a ridge of hills which the lieutenant was desirous ofclimbing. As, however, it was high water, and the day was far spent;and as the weather, in particular, was dark and rainy, he was afraidof being bewildered among the shoals in the night, and therefore wasobliged to give up his inclination, and to make the best of his way tothe ship. Two people only were seen by him, who followed the boatalong the shore a good way at some distance; but he could notprudently wait for them, as the tide ran strongly in his favour. Several fires in one direction, and smoke in another, exhibitedfarther proofs of the country's being in a certain degree inhabited. While Mr. Cook, with Dr. Solander, was tracing the inlet, Mr. Banksand a party with him engaged in a separate excursion, in which theyhad not proceeded far within land, before their course was obstructedby a swamp, covered with mangroves. This, however, they determined topass; and having done it with great difficulty, they came up to aplace where there had been four small fires, near to which lay someshells and bones of fish, that had been roasted. Heaps of grass werealso found lying together, on which four or five people appeared tohave slept. Mr. Gore, in another place, observed the track of a largeanimal. Some bustards were likewise seen, but not any other bird, excepting a few beautiful loriquets, of the same kind with those whichhad been noticed in Botany Bay. The country in general, in this partof New South Wales, appeared sandy and barren, and destitute of theaccommodations which could fit it for being possessed by settledinhabitants. From the ill success that attended the searching forfresh water, Lieutenant Cook called the inlet in which the ship layThirsty Sound. No refreshment of any other sort was here procured byour voyagers. Our commander, not having a single inducement to stay longer in thisplace, weighed anchor in the morning of the 31st and put to sea. Inthe prosecution of the voyage, when the Endeavour was close under CapeUpstart, the variation of the needle, at sunset, on the 4th of June, was 9° east, and at sunrise the next day, it was no more that 5° 35'. Hence the lieutenant concluded, that it had been influenced by ironore, or by some other magnetical matter contained under the surface ofthe earth. In the afternoon of the 7th our navigators saw upon one ofthe islands what had the appearance of cocoa-nut trees; and as fewnuts would at this time have been very acceptable, Mr. Cook sentLieutenant Hicks ashore, to see if he could procure any refreshment. He was accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and in the eveningthe gentlemen returned, with an account that what had been taken forcocoa-nut trees were a small kind of cabbage-palm, and that, exceptingabout fourteen or fifteen plants, nothing could be obtained which wasworth bringing away. On the 8th, when the Endeavour was in the midstof a cluster of small islands, our voyagers discerned with theirglasses, upon one of the nearest of these islands, about thirty of thenatives, men, women, and children, all standing together, and lookingwith great attention at the ship. This was the first instance ofcuriosity that had been observed among the people of the country. Thepresent Indian spectators were entirely naked. Their hair was short, and their complexion the same with that of such of the inhabitants ashad been seen before. In navigating the coast of New South Wales, where the sea in all partsconceals shoals, which suddenly project from the shore, and rocks, that rise abruptly like a pyramid from the bottom, our commander hadhitherto conducted his vessel in safety, for an extent of two andtwenty degrees of latitude, being more than one thousand three hundredmiles. But, on the 10th of June, as he was pursuing his course from abay to which he had given the name of Trinity Bay, the Endeavour fellinto a situation, as critical and dangerous, as any that is recorded inthe history of navigation; a history which abounds with perilousadventures, and almost miraculous escapes. Our voyagers were now nearthe latitude assigned to the islands that were discovered by Quiros, and which, without sufficient reason, some geographers have thoughtproper to join to this land. The ship had the advantage of a finebreeze, and a clear moonlight night; and in standing off from six tillnear nine o'clock, she had deepened her water from fourteen totwenty-one fathom. But while our navigators were at supper, itsuddenly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, within the compass of a few minutes. Mr. Cook immediately orderedevery man to his station, and all was ready to put about and come toan anchor, when deep water being met with again at the next cast ofthe lead, it was concluded that the vessel had gone over the tail ofthe shoals which had been seen at sun-set, and that the danger was nowover. The idea of security was confirmed by the water's continuing todeepen to twenty and twenty-one fathom, so that the gentlemen left thedeck in great tranquillity, and went to bed. However, a little beforeeleven, the water shoaled at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, andbefore the lead could be cast again, the ship struck, and remainedimmoveable, excepting so far as she was influenced by the heaving ofthe surge, that beat her against the crags of the rock upon which shelay. A few moments brought every person upon deck, with countenancessuited to the horrors of the situation. As our people knew, from thebreeze which they had in the evening, that they could not be very nearthe shore, there was too much reason to conclude, that they were on arock of coral, which, on account of the sharpness of its points, andthe roughness of its surface, is more fatal than any other. Onexamining the depth of water round the ship, it was speedilydiscovered that the misfortune of our voyagers was equal to theirapprehensions. The vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow therewere from three to four fathom, and in others not so many feet ofwater. To complete the scene of distress, it appeared from the lightof the moon, that the sheathing boards from the bottom of the shipwere floating away all around her, and at last her false keel; so thatevery moment was making way for the whole company's being swallowed upby the rushing in of the sea. There was now no chance but to lightenher, and the opportunity had unhappily been lost of doing it to thebest advantage; for, as the Endeavour had gone ashore just at highwater, and by this time it had considerably fallen, she would, whenlightened, be but in the same situation as at first. The onlyalleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed, thevessel settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with somuch violence. Our people had, indeed, some hope from the next tide, though it was doubtful whether the ship would hold together so long, especially as the rock kept grating part of her bottom with such forceas to be heard in the fore store-room. No effort, however, wasremitted from despair of success. That no time might be lost, thewater was immediately started in the hold, and pumped up; six guns, being all that were upon the deck, a quantity of iron and stoneballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and a variety, of things besides, were thrown overboard with the utmost expedition. Every one exerted himself not only without murmuring and discontent, but even with an alacrity which almost approached to cheerfulness. Sosensible, at the same time, were the men of the awfulness of theirsituation, that not an oath was heard among them, the detestable habitof profane swearing being instantly subdued by the dread of incurringguilt when a speedy death was in view. When Lieutenant Cook and all the people about him were thus employed, the opening of the morning of the 11th of June presented them with afuller prospect of their danger. The land was seen by them at abouteight leagues distance, without any island in the intermediate spaceupon which, if the ship had gong to pieces, they might have been setashore by the boats, and carried thence by different turns to themain. Gradually, however, the wind died away, and, early in theforenoon, it became a dead calm; a circumstance this, peculiarly happyin the order of Divine Providence; for if it had blown hard, thevessel must inevitably have been destroyed. High water being expectedat eleven in the morning, and every thing being made ready to heaveher off if she should float; to the inexpressible surprise and concernof our navigators, so much did the day tide fall short of that of thenight, that though they had lightened the ship nearly fifty ton, shedid not float by a foot and a half. Hence it became necessary tolighten her still more, and every thing was thrown overboard thatcould possibly be spared. Hitherto the Endeavour had not admitted muchwater; but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, that she couldscarcely be kept free, though two pumps were incessantly worked. Therewere now no hopes but from the tide at midnight; to prepare for takingthe advantage of which the most vigorous efforts were exerted. Aboutfive o'clock in the afternoon the tide began to rise, but, at the sametime, the leak increased to a most alarming degree. Two more pumps, therefore, were manned, one of which unhappily would not work. Threepumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted. Nevertheless, the leak had gained so considerably upon her, that itwas imagined that she must go to the bottom, as soon as she ceased tobe supported by the rock. It was, indeed, a dreadful circumstance toour commander and his people, that they were obliged to anticipate thefloating of the vessel, not as an earnest of their deliverance, but asan event which probably would precipitate their destruction. They knewthat their boats were not capable of carrying the whole of them onshore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, all commandand subordination being at an end, a contest for preference might beexpected, which would increase even the horrors of shipwreck, and turntheir rage against each other. Some of them were sensible that if theyshould escape to the main land, they were likely to suffer more uponthe whole, than those who would be left on board to perish in thewaves. The latter would only be exposed to instant death; whereas theformer, when they got on shore, would have no lasting or effectualdefence against the natives, in a part of the country where even netsand fire-arms could scarcely furnish them with food. But supposingthat they should find the means of subsistence; how horrible must betheir state, to be condemned to languish out the remainder of theirlives in a desolate wilderness without the possession or hope ofdomestic comfort; and to be cut off from all commerce with mankind, excepting that of the naked savages, who prowl the desert, and whoperhaps are some of the most rude and uncivilized inhabitants of theearth. The dreadful moment which was to determine the fate of our voyagersnow drew on; and every one saw, in the countenances of his companions, the picture of his own sensations. Not, however, giving way todespair, the lieutenant ordered the capstan and windlass to be mannedwith as many hands as could be spared from the pumps, and the shiphaving floated about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the grandeffort was made, and she was heaved into deep water. It was no smallconsolation to find, that she did not now admit of more water than shehad done when upon the rock. By the gaining, indeed, of the leak uponthe pumps, three feet and nine inches of water were in the hold;notwithstanding which, the men did not relinquish their labour. Thusthey held the water as it were at bay: but having endured excessivefatigue of body, and agitation of mind, for more than twenty-fourhours, and all this being attended with little hope of final success, they began, at length, to flag. None of them could work at the pumpabove five or six minutes together, after which, being totallyexhausted they threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream ofwater, between three or four inches deep, was running over it from thepumps. When those who succeeded them had worked their time, and intheir turn were exhausted, they threw themselves down in the samemanner and the others started up again, to renew their labour. Whilethus they were employed in relieving each other, an accident was verynearly putting an immediate end to all their efforts. The plankingwhich lines the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, between which andthe outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches. Fromthis ceiling only, the man who had hitherto attended the well hadtaken the depth of the water, and had given the measure accordingly. But, upon his being relieved, the person who came in his room reckonedthe depth to the outside planking which had the appearance of theleak's having gained upon the pumps eighteen inches in a few minutes. The mistake, however, was soon detected; and the accident, which inits commencement was very formidable to them, became, in fact, highlyadvantageous. Such was the joy which every man felt at finding hissituation better than his fears had suggested, that it operated withwonderful energy, and seemed to possess him with a strong persuasionthat scarcely any real danger remained. New confidence and new hopeinspired fresh vigour; and the efforts of the men were exerted with somuch alacrity and spirit, that before eight o'clock in the morning thepumps had gained considerably upon the leak. All the conversation nowturned upon carrying the ship into some harbour, as a thing not to bedoubted; and as hands could be spared from the pumps, they wereemployed in getting up the anchors. It being found impossible to savethe little bower anchor, it was cut away at a whole cable, and thecable of the stream anchor was lost among the rocks; but in thesituation of our people, these were trifles which scarcely attractedtheir notice. The fore topmast and fore yard were next erected, andthere being a breeze from the sea, the Endeavour, at eleven o'clock, got once more under sail, and stood for the land. Notwithstanding these favourable circumstances, our voyagers werestill very far from being in a state of safety. It was not possiblelong to continue the labour by which the pumps had been made to gainupon the leak; and as the exact place of it could not be discovered, there was no hope of stopping it within. At this crisis, Mr. Monkhouse, one of the midshipmen, came to Lieutenant Cook, andproposed an expedient he had once seen used on board a merchant ship, which had sprung a leak that admitted more than four feet water in anhour, and which by this means had been safely brought from Virginia toLondon. To Mr. Monkhouse, therefore, the care of the expedient, whichis called forthering the ship, was, with proper assistance, committed;and his method of proceeding was as follows. He took a lower studdingsail, and having mixed together a large quantity of oakum and wool, hestitched it down as lightly as possible, in handfuls upon the sail, and spread over it the dung of the sheep of the vessel, and etherfilth. The sail being thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship'sbottom by ropes, which kept it extended. When it came under the leak, the suction that carried in the water, carried in with it the oakumand wool from the surface of the sail. In other parts the water wasnot sufficiently agitated to wash off the oakum and the wool. Thesuccess of the expedient was answerable to the warmest expectations;for hereby the leak was so far reduced, that, instead of gaining uponthree pumps, it was easily kept under with one. Here was such a newsource of confidence and comfort, that our people could scarcely haveexpressed more joy, if they had been already in port. It had latelybeen the utmost object of their hope, to run the ship ashore in someharbour, either of an island or the main, and to build a vessel out ofher materials, to carry them to the East Indies. Nothing, however, wasnow thought of but to range along the coast in search of a convenientplace to repair the damage the Endeavour had sustained, and then toprosecute the voyage upon the same plan as if no impediment hadhappened. In justice and gratitude to the ship's company, and thegentlemen on board, Mr. Cook has recorded, that although in the midstof their distress all of them seemed to have a just sense of theirdanger, no man gave way to passionate exclamations, or franticgestures. 'Every one appeared to have the perfect possession of hismind, and every one exerted himself to the utmost, with a quiet andpatient perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence ofterror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair. ' Though the lieutenanthath said nothing of himself, it is well known that his own composure, fortitude, and activity, were equal to the greatness of the occasion. To complete the history of this wonderful preservation, it isnecessary to bring forward a circumstance, which could not bediscovered till the ship was laid down to be repaired. It was thenfound, that one of her holes, which was large enough to have sunk ournavigators, if they had had eight pumps instead of four, and had beenable to keep them incessantly going, was in a great measure filled upby a fragment of the rock, upon which the Endeavour had struck. Tothis singular event, therefore, it was owing, that the water did notpour in with a violence, which must speedily have involved theEndeavour and all her company in inevitable destruction. Hitherto none of the names, by which our commander had distinguishedthe several parts of the country seen by him, were memorials ofdistress. But the anxiety and danger, which he and his people had nowexperienced, induced him to call the point in sight, which lay to thenorthward, Cape Tribulation. The next object, after this event, was to look out for a harbour, where the defects of the ship might be repaired, and the vessel putinto proper order for future navigation. On the 14th, a small harbourwas happily discovered, which was excellently adapted to the purpose. It was, indeed, remarkable, that, during the whole course of thevoyage, our people had seen no place which, in their presentcircumstances, could have afforded them the same relief. They couldnot, however, immediately get into it; and in the midst of all theirjoy for their unexpected deliverance, they had not forgotten thatthere was nothing but a lock of wool between them and destruction. At this time, the scurvy, with many formidable symptoms, began to makeits appearance among our navigators. Tupia, in particular, was sogrievously affected with the disease, that all the remedies prescribedby the surgeon could not retard its progress. Mr. Green, theastronomer, was also upon the decline. These and other circumstancesembittered the delay which prevented our commander and his companionsfrom getting on shore. In the morning of the 17th, though the wind wasstill fresh, the lieutenant ventured to weigh, and to put in for theharbour, the entrance into which was by a very narrow channel. Inmaking the attempt, the ship was twice run aground. At the first timeshe went off without any trouble, but the second time, she stuck fast. Nevertheless, by proper exertions, in conjunction with the rising ofthe tide, she floated about one o'clock in the afternoon, and was soonwarped into the harbour. The succeeding day was employed in erectingtwo tents, in landing the provisions and stores, and in making everypreparation for repairing the damages which the Endeavour hadsustained. In the meanwhile, Mr. Cook, who had ascended one of thehighest hills that overlooked the harbour was by no means entertainedwith a comfortable prospect; the low land near the river being whollyoverrun with mangroves, among which the salt water flows at everytide, and the high land appearing to be altogether stony and barren. Mr. Banks also took a walk up the country, and met with the frames ofseveral old Indian houses, and places where the natives, though notrecently, had dressed shell fish. The boat, which had this day beendispatched to haul the seine, with a view of procuring some fish forthe refreshment of the sick, returned without success. Tupia was morefortunate. Having employed himself in angling, and lived entirely uponwhat he caught, he recovered in a surprising degree. Mr. Green, to theregret of his friends, exhibited no symptoms of returning health. On the 19th, Mr. Banks crossed the river, to take a farther view ofthe country; which he found to consist principally of sand hills. SomeIndian houses were seen by him, that appeared to have been very latelyinhabited; and in his walk be met with large flocks of pigeons andcrows. The pigeons were exceedingly beautiful. Of these he shotseveral; but the crows, which were exactly like those in England, wereso shy, that they never came within the reach of his gun. It was not till the 22nd, that the tide so far left the Endeavour, asto give our people an opportunity of examining her leak. In the placewhere it was found, the rocks had made their way through four planks, and even into the timbers. Three more planks were greatly damaged, andthere was something very extraordinary in the appearance of thebreaches. Not a splinter was to be seen, but all was as smooth as ifthe whole had been cut away by an instrument. It was a peculiarlyhappy circumstance, that the timbers were here very close, sinceotherwise the ship could not possibly have been saved. Now also it wasthat the fragment of rock was discovered, which, by sticking in theleak of the vessel had been such a providential instrument of herpreservation. On the same day, some of the people who had been sent to shoot pigeonsfor the sick, and who had discovered many Indian houses, and a finestream of fresh water reported at their return, that they had seen ananimal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, of a mouse colour, and extremely swift. As the lieutenant was walking, on the morning ofthe 24th, at a little distance from the ship, he had an opportunity ofseeing an animal of the same kind. From the description he gave of it, and from an imperfect view which occurred to Mr. Banks, the lattergentleman was of opinion that its species was hitherto unknown. The position of the vessel, while she was refitting for sea, was verynear depriving the world of that botanical knowledge, which Mr. Bankshad procured at the expense of so much labour, and such variousperils. For the greater security of the curious collection of plantswhich he had made during the whole voyage, he had removed them intothe bread room. This room is in the after part of the ship, the headof which, for the purpose of repairing her, was laid much higher thanthe stern. No one having thought of the danger to which thiscircumstance might expose the plants, they were found to be underwater. However, by the exercise of unremitting care and attention, thelarger part of them were restored to a state of preservation. On the 29th of June, at two o'clock in the morning Mr. Cook, inconjunction with Mr. Green, observed an emersion of Jupiter's firstsatellite. The time here was 2h 18' 53", which gave the longitude ofthe place at 214° 42' 30" west: its latitude is 15° 26' south. Thenext morning the lieutenant sent some of the young gentlemen to take aplan of the harbour, whilst he himself ascended a hill, that he mightgain a full prospect of the sea: and it was a prospect which presentedhim with a lively view of the difficulties of his situation. To hisgreat concern he saw innumerable sand-banks and shoals, lying in everydirection of the coast. Some of them extended as far as he coulddiscern with his glass, and many of them did but just rise abovewater. To the northward there was an appearance of a passage, and thiswas the only direction to which our commander could hope to get clear, in the prosecution of his voyage; for, as the wind blew constantlyfrom the south-east, to return by the southward would have beenextremely difficult, if not absolutely impossible. On this, and thepreceding day, our people had been very successful in hauling theseine. The supply of fish was so great, that the lieutenant was nowable to distribute two pounds and a half to each man. A quantity ofgreens having likewise been gathered, he ordered them to be boiledwith peas. Hence an excellent mess was produced, which, in conjunctionwith the fish, afforded an unspeakable refreshment to the whole of theship's company. Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant Cook sent themaster out of the harbour, in the pinnace, to sound about the shoals, and to search for a channel to the northward. A second attempt, whichwas made this day, to heave off the ship, was as unsuccessful as aformer one had been. The next day the master returned, and reportedthat he had found a passage out to sea, between the shoals. On one ofthese shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dryat low water, he had landed, and found there cockles, of so enormous asize, that a single cockle was more than two men could eat. At thesame place he met with a great variety of other shell fish, andbrought back with him a plentiful supply for the use of his fellowvoyagers. At high water, this day, another effort was made to floatthe ship, which happily succeeded; but it being found, that she hadsprung a plank between decks, it became necessary to lay her ashore asecond time. The lieutenant, being anxious to attain a perfectknowledge of the state of the vessel, got one of the carpenters crew, a man in whom he could confide, to dive on the fifth to her bottom, that he might examine the place where the sheathing had been rubbedoff. His report, which was, that three streaks of the sheathing, abouteight feet long, were wanting, and that the main plank had been alittle rubbed, was perfectly agreeable to the account that had beengiven before by the master and others, who had made the sameexamination; and our commander had the consolation of finding, that, in the opinion of the carpenter, this matter would be of littleconsequence. The other damage, therefore, being repaired, the ship wasagain floated at high water, and all hands were employed in taking thestores on board, and in putting her into a condition for proceeding onher voyage. To the harbour in which she was refitted for the sea, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Endeavour River. On the morning of the 6th, Mr. Banks accompanied by Lieutenant Gore, and three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view ofspending a few days in examining the country. In this expeditionnothing escaped his notice, which related either to the naturalhistory or the inhabitants of the places he visited. Though he metwith undoubted proofs, that several of the natives were at no greatdistance, none of them came within sight. Having found, upon thewhole, that the country did not promise much advantage from a farthersearch, he and his party re-embarked in their boat, and returned, onthe 8th, to the ship. During their excursion, they had slept upon theground in perfect security, and without once reflecting upon thedanger they would have incurred, if, in that situation, they had beendiscovered by the Indians. Lieutenant cook had not been satisfied with the account which themaster had given of his having traced a passage between the shoals, into the sea. He sent him out, therefore, a second time, upon the samebusiness; and, on his return, he made a different report. Having beenseven leagues out at sea, the master was now of opinion, that therewas no such passage as he had before imagined. His expedition, however, though in this respect unsuccessful, was not wholly withoutits advantage. On the very rock where he had seen the large cockles, he met with a great number of turtle; and though he had no better aninstrument than a boat hook, three of them were caught, which togetherweighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds. An attempt, which, byorder of the lieutenant, was made the next morning to obtain some moreturtle, failed, through the misconduct of the same officer, who hadbeen so fortunate on the preceding day. Hitherto the natives of this part of the country had eagerly avoidedholding any intercourse with our people: but at length their minds, through the good management of Mr. Cook, became more favourablydisposed. Four of them having appeared, on the 10th, in a small canoe, and seeming to be busily employed in striking fish, some of the shipscompany were for going over to them in a boat. This, however, thelieutenant would not permit, repeated experience having convinced himthat it was more likely to prevent than to procure an interview. Hedetermined to pursue a contrary method, and to try what could be doneby letting them alone, and not appearing to make them, in the leastdegree, the objects of his notice. So successful was this plan, thatafter some preparatory intercourse, they came alongside the ship, without expressing any fear or distrust. The conference was carriedon, by signs, with the utmost cordiality till dinner time, when, beinginvited by our people to go with them and partake of their provision, they declined it, and went away in their canoe. One of these Indianswas somewhat above the middle age; the three others were young. Theirstatue was of the common size, but their limbs were remarkably small. The colour of their skin was a dark chocolate. Their hair was black, but not woolly; and their features were far from being disagreeable. They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white. The tonesof their voices were soft and musical, and there was a flexibility intheir organs of speech, which enabled them to repeat with greatfacility many of the words pronounced by the English. On the next morning, our voyagers had another visit from four of thenatives. Three of them were the same who had appeared the day before, but the fourth was a stranger, to whom his companions gave the name ofYaparico. He was distinguished by a very peculiar ornament. This wasthe bone of a bird nearly as thick as a man's finger, and five or sixinches long, which he had thrust into a hole, made in the gristle thatdivides the nostrils. An instance of the like kind, and only one, hadbeen seen in New Zealand. It was found, however, that among all thesepeople the same part of the nose was perforated; that they had holesin their ears; and that they had bracelets, made of plaited hair, uponthe upper part of their arms. Thus the love of ornament takes placeamong them though they are absolutely destitute of apparel. Three Indians, on the 12th, ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were sowell pleased with their reception, that one of them went with hiscanoe to fetch two others, who had never been seen by the English. Onhis return, he introduced the strangers by name, a ceremony which wasnever omitted upon such occasions. From a father acquaintance with thenatives, it was found, that the colour of their skins was not so darkas had at first been apprehended, and that all of them were remarkablyclean-limbed, and extremely active and nimble. Their language appearedto be more harsh than that of the islanders to the South Sea. On the 14th, Mr. Gore had the good fortune to kill one of the animalsbefore mentioned, and which had been the subject of much speculation. It is called by the natives Kanguroo; and when dressed proved mostexcellent meat. Indeed, our navigators might now be said to faresumptuously every day; for they had turtle in great plenty, and it wasagreed that these were far superior to any which our people had evertasted in England. This the gentlemen justly imputed to their beingeaten fresh from the sea, before their natural fat had been wasted, ortheir juices changed, by the situation and diet they are exposed towhen kept in tubs. Most of the turtle here caught were of the kindcalled green turtle, and their weight was from two to three hundredpounds. In the morning of the 16th, while the men were engaged in their usualemployment of getting the ship ready for the sea, our commanderclimbed one of the heights on the north side of the river, andobtained from it an extensive view of the inland country, which hefound agreeably diversified by hills, valleys, and large plains, thatin many places were richly covered with wood. This evening, thelieutenant and Mr. Green observed an emersion of the first satelliteof Jupiter, which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude. The observationtaken on the 29th of June had given 214° 48' 30"; and the mean was214° 48' 7-1/2", being the longitude of the place west of Greenwich. On the 17th, Mr. Cook sent the master and one of the mates in thepinnace, to search for a channel northward; after which, accompaniedby Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, he went into the woods on the otherside of the water. In this excursion, the gentlemen had a fartheropportunity of improving that acquaintance with the Indians, who bydegrees became so familiar, that several of them the next day venturedon board the ship. There the lieutenant left them, apparently muchentertained, that he might go with Mr. Banks to take a farther surveyof the country, and especially to indulge an anxious curiosity theyhad of looking round about them upon the sea; of which they earnestlywished, but scarcely dared to hope, that they might obtain afavourable and encouraging prospect. When, after having walked alongthe shore seven or eight miles to the northward, they ascended a veryhigh hill, the view which presented itself to them inspired nothingbut melancholy apprehensions. In every direction they saw rocks andshoals without number; and there appeared to be no passage out to sea, but through the winding channels between them, the navigation of whichcould not be accomplished without the utmost degree of difficulty anddanger. The spirits of the two gentlemen were not raised by thisexcursion. On the 19th, our voyagers were visited by ten of the natives: and sixor seven more were seen at a distance, chiefly women, who were asnaked as the male inhabitants of the country. There being at that timea number of turtles on the deck of the ship, the Indians who came onboard were determined to get one of them; and expressed greatdisappointment and anger, when our people refused to comply with theirwishes. Several attempts were made by them to secure what they wantedby force; but all their efforts proving unsuccessful, they suddenlyleaped into their canoe in a transport of rage, and paddled towardsthe shore. The lieutenant, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of theship's crew, immediately went into the boat, and got ashore, wheremany of the English were engaged in various employments. As soon asthe natives reached the land, they seized their arms, which had beenlaid up in a tree, and having snatched a brand from under apitch-kettle that was boiling, made a circuit to the windward of thefew things our people had on shore, and with surprising quickness anddexterity set on fire to the grass in that way. The grass, which wasas dry as stubble, and five or six feet high, burned with surprisingfury; and a tent of Mr. Banks's would have been destroyed if thatgentleman had not immediately got some of the men to save it, byhauling it down upon the beach. Every part of the smith's forge thatwould burn was consumed. This transaction was followed by another ofthe same nature. In spite of threats and entreaties, the Indians wentto a different place, where several of the Endeavour's crew werewashing, and where the seine, the other nets, and a large quantity oflinen were laid out to dry, and again set fire to the grass. Theaudacity of this fresh attack rendered it necessary that a musket, loaded with small shot, should be discharged at one of them; who beingwounded at the distance of about forty yards they all betookthemselves to flight. In the last instance the fire was extinguishedbefore it had made any considerable progress; but where it had firstbegan, it spread far into the woods. The natives being still in sight, Mr. Cook, to convince them that they had not yet gotten out of hisreach, fired a musket, charged with ball, abreast of them among themangroves, upon which they quickened their pace, and were soon out ofview. It was now expected that they would have given our navigators nofarther trouble; but in a little time their voices were heard in thewoods, and it was perceived that they came nearer and nearer. Thelieutenant, therefore, together with Mr. Banks, and three or four morepersons, set out to meet them; and the result of the interview, inconsequence of the prudent and lenient conduct of our commander andhis friends, was a complete reconciliation. Soon after the Indianswent away, the woods were seen to be on fire at the distance of abouttwo miles. This accident, if it had happened a little sooner, mighthave produced dreadful effects; for the powder had been but a few dayson board, and it was not many hours that the store tents, with all thevaluable things contained in it had been removed. From the fury withwhich the grass would burn in this hot climate, and the difficulty ofextinguishing the fire, our voyagers determined never to exposethemselves to the like danger, but to clear the ground around them, ifever again they should be under the necessity of pitching their tentsin such a situation. In the evening of this day, when every thing was gotten on board theship, and she was nearly ready for sailing, the master returned withthe disagreeable account that there was no passage for her to thenorthward. The next morning, the lieutenant himself sounded and buoyedthe bar. At this time, all the hills for many miles round were onfire, and the appearance they assumed at night was eminently strikingand splendid. In an excursion which was made by Mr. Banks, on the 23rd, to gatherplants, he found the greatest part of the cloth that had been given tothe Indians lying in a heap together. This, as well as the trinketswhich had been bestowed upon them, they probably regarded as uselesslumber. Indeed, they seemed to set little value on any thing possessedby our people, excepting their turtle, and that was a commodity whichcould not be spared. As Lieutenant Cook was prevented by blowing weather from attempting toget out to sea, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander seized another opportunity, on the 24th, of pursuing their botanical researches. Having traversedthe woods the greater part of the day, without success, as they werereturning through a deep valley they discovered lying upon the groundseveral marking nuts, anacardiam orientale. Animated with the hope ofmeeting the tree that bore them, a tree which perhaps no Europeanbotanist had ever seen, they sought for it with great diligence andlabour, but to no purpose. While Mr. Banks was again gleaning thecountry, on the 26th, to enlarge his treasure of natural history, hehad the good fortune to take an animal of the oppossum tribe, togetherwith two young ones. It was a female, and though not exactly of thesame species, much resembled the remarkable animal which Mons. DeBuffon hath described by the name of phalanger. On the morning of the 29th, the weather becoming calm, and a lightbreeze having sprung up by land, Lieutenant Cook sent a boat to seewhat water was upon the bar, and all things were made ready forputting to sea. But, on the return of the boat, the officer reported, that there were only thirteen feet of water on the bar. As the shipdrew thirteen feet six inches, and the sea-breeze set in again in theevening, all hope of sailing on that day was given up. The weatherbeing more moderate on the 31st, the lieutenant had thoughts of tryingto warp the vessel out of the harbour; but upon going out himself tothe boat, he found, that the wind still blew so fresh, that it wouldnot be proper to make the attempt. A disagreeable piece ofintelligence occured on the succeeding day. The carpenter, who hadexamined the pumps, reported, that they were all of them in a state ofdecay. One of them was so rotten, that, when hoisted up, it dropped topieces, and the rest were not in a much better condition. The chiefconfidence, therefore, of our navigators was now in the soundness ofthe ship; and it was a happy circumstance, that she did not admit morethan one inch of water in an hour. Early on the 3rd of August, another unsuccessful attempt was made towarp the vessel out of the harbour but in the morning of the next daythe efforts of our voyagers were more prosperous, and the Endeavourgot once more under sail with a light air from the land, which soondied away, and was followed by sea-breezes from south-east by south. With these breezes the ship stood off to sea, east by north, havingthe pinnace ahead, which was ordered to keep sounding withoutintermission. A little before noon the lieutenant anchored in fifteenfathom water, with a sandy bottom, the reason of which was, that hedid not think it safe to run in among the shoals, till, by taking aview of them from the mast-head at low water, he might be able to formsome judgment which way it would be proper for him to steer. This wasa matter of nice and arduous determination. As yet Mr. Cook was indoubt, whether he should beat back to the southward, round all theshoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or the northward: nor was itpossible to say, whether each of these courses might not be attendedwith equal difficulty and danger. The impartiality and humanity of Lieutenant Cook's conduct in thedistribution of provisions ought not to pass unnoticed. Whateverturtle or other fish were caught, they were always equally dividedamong the whole ship's crew, the meanest person on board having thesame share with the lieutenant himself. He hath justly observed, thatthis is a rule which every commander will find it his interest tofollow, in a voyage of a similiar nature. Great difficulties occured in the navigation from the Endeavour river. On the 5th of August, the lieutenant had not kept his course long, before shoals were discovered in every quarter, which obliged him, asnight approached, to come to an anchor. In the morning of the 6ththere was so strong a gale, that our voyagers were prevented fromweighing. When it was low water, Mr. Cook, with several of hisofficers, kept a look-out at the mast head, to see if any passagecould be discovered between the shoals. Nothing, however, was in view, excepting breakers, which extended from the south round by the east asfar as to the north-west, and reached out to sea, beyond the sight ofany of the gentlemen. It did not appear that these breakers werecaused by one continued shoal, but by several, which lay detached fromeach other. On that which was farthest to the eastward, the sea brokevery high, so that the lieutenant was induced to think, that it wasthe outermost shoal. He was now convinced, that there was no passageto sea, but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals; and, at thesame time, he was wholly at a loss what course to steer, when theweather should permit the vessel to sail. The master's opinion was, that our navigators should beat back the way they came; but as thewind blew strongly, and almost without intermission, from thatquarter, this would have been an endless labour: and yet, if a passagecould not be found to the northward, there was no other alternative. Amidst these anxious deliberations, the gale increased, and continued, with little remission, till the morning of the 10th, when the weatherbecoming more moderate, our commander weighed, and stood in for theland. He had now come to a final determination of seeking a passagealong the shore to the northward. In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour proceeded in hercourse, and at noon came between the farthermost headland that lay insight, and three islands which were four or five leagues to the northof it, out at sea. Here our navigators thought they saw a clearopening before them, and began to hope that they were once more out ofdanger. Of this hope, however, they were soon deprived; on whichaccount, the lieutenant gave to the headland the name of CapeFlattery. After he had steered some time along the shore, for what wasbelieved to be the open channel, the petty officer at the mast-headcried aloud, that he saw land ahead, which extended quite round to thethree islands, and that between the ship and them there was a largereef. Mr. Cook, upon this, ran up the mast-head himself, and plainlydiscerned the reef, which was so far to the windward, that it couldnot be weathered. As to the land which the petty officer had supposedto be the main, our commander was of opinion, that it was only acluster of small islands. The master, and some others, who went up themast-head after the lieutenant, were entirely of a different opinion. All of them were positive that the land in sight did not consist ofislands, but that it was a part of the main: and they rendered theirreport still more alarming, by adding, that they saw breakers aroundthem on every side. In a situation so critical and doubtful, Mr. Cookthought proper to come to an anchor, under a high point which heimmediately ascended, that he might have a farther view of the sea andthe country. The prospect he had from this place, which he calledPoint Look-out, clearly confirmed him in his former opinion; thejustness of which displayed one of the numerous instances, wherein itwas manifest, how much he exceeded the people about him in sagacity ofhis judgment concerning matters of navigation. The lieutenant, being anxious to discover more distinctly thesituation of the shoals, and the channel between them, determined tovisit the northernmost and largest of the three islands beforementioned; which, from its height and its lying five leagues out tosea, was peculiarly adapted to his purpose. Accordingly, in companywith Mr. Banks, whose fortitude and curiosity stimulated him to take ashare in every undertaking, he set out in the pinnace, on the morningof the 11th, upon this expedition. He sent, at the same time, themaster in the yawl, to sound between the low islands and the mainland. About one o'clock, the gentlemen reached the place of theirdestination, and immediately, with a mixture of hope and fear, proportioned to the importance of the business, and the uncertainty ofthe event, ascended the highest hill they could find. When thelieutenant took a survey of the prospect around him, he discovered, onthe outside of the islands, and at the distance of two or threeleagues from them, a reef of rocks, upon which the sea broke in adreadful surf, and which extended farther than his sight could reach. Hence, however, he collected, that there was no shoals beyond them;and, as he perceived several breaks or openings in the reef, and deepwater between that and the islands, he entertained hopes of gettingwithout the rocks. But though he saw reason to indulge, in somedegree, this expectation, the haziness of the weather prevented himfrom obtaining that satisfactory intelligence which he ardentlydesired. He determined, therefore, by staying all night upon theisland, to try whether the next day would not afford him a moredistinct and comprehensive prospect. Accordingly, the gentlemen tookup their lodging under the shelter of a bush, which grew upon thebeach. Not many hours were devoted by them to sleep; for, at three inthe morning, Mr. Cook mounted the hill a second time, but had themortification of finding the weather much more hazy than it had beenon the preceding day. He had early sent the pinnace, with one of themates, to sound between the island and the reefs, and to examine whatappeared to be a channel through them. The mate, in consequence of itsblowing hard, did not dare to venture into the channel, which hereported to be very narrow. Nevertheless, our commander, who judged, from the description of the place, that it had been seen todisadvantage, was not discouraged by this account. While the lieutenant was engaged in his survey, Mr. Banks, alwaysattentive to the great object of natural history, collected someplants which he had never met with before. No animals were perceivedupon the place, excepting lizards, for which reason the gentlemen gaveit the name of Lizard Island. In their return to the ship, they landedon a low sandy island that had trees upon it, and which abounded withan incredible number of birds, principally sea-fowl. Here they foundthe nest of an eagle, and the nest of some other bird, of what speciesthey could not distinguish; but it must certainly be one of thelargest kinds that exist. This was apparent from the enormous size ofthe nest, which was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no lessthan six and twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inchesin height. The spot which the gentlemen were now upon they calledEagle Island. When Lieutenant Cook got on board he entered into a very seriousdeliberation concerning the course he should pursue. After consideringwhat he had seen himself and the master's report, he was of opinion, that by keeping in with the main land, he should run the risk of beinglocked in by the great reef, and of being compelled at last to returnback in search of another passage. By the delay that would hence beoccasioned, our navigators would almost certainly be prevented fromgetting in time to the East Indies, which was a matter of the utmostimportance, and indeed of absolute necessity; for they had now notmuch more than three months' provision on board, at short allowance. The judgment the lieutenant had formed together with the facts andappearances on which it was grounded, he stated to his officers, bywhom it was unanimously agreed, that the best thing they could dowould be to quit the coast entirely, till they could approach it againwith less danger. In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour, early in the morningof the 13th, got under sail, and successfully passed through one ofthe channels or openings in the outer reef, which Mr. Cook had seenfrom the island. When the ship had gotten without the breakers, therewas no ground within one hundred and fifty fathom, and our peoplefound a large sea rolling in upon them from the south-east. This was acertain sign that neither land nor shoals were near them in thatdirection. So happy a change in the situation of our voyagers was sensibly feltin every breast, and was visible in every countenance. They had beenlittle less than three months in a state that perpetually threatenedthem with destruction. Frequently had they passed their nights atanchor within hearing of the surge, that broke over the shoals androcks; and they knew, that, if by any accident the anchors should nothold against an almost continual tempest, they must in a few minutesinevitably perish. They had sailed three hundred and sixty leagues, without once, even for a moment, having a man out of the chainsheaving the lead. This was a circumstance which perhaps never hadhappened to any other vessel. But now our navigators found themselvesin an open sea with deep water; and the joy they experienced wasproportioned to their late danger, and their present security. Nevertheless, the very waves, which proved by their swell that ourpeople had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced them, at the sametime, that they could not put a confidence in the ship equal to whatthey had done before she struck. So far were the leaks widened by theblows she received from the waves, that she admitted no less than nineinches of water in an hour. If the company had not been lately in somuch more imminent danger, this fact, considering the state of thepumps, and the navigation which was still in view, would have been amatter of very serious concern. The passage or channel, through which the Endeavour passed into theopen sea beyond the reef, lies in latitude 14° 32' south. It mayalways be known by the three high islands within it, to which, onaccount of the use they may be of in guiding the way of futurevoyagers, our commander gave the appellation of the islands ofDirection. It was not a long time that our navigators enjoyed the satisfaction ofbeing free from the alarm of danger. As they were pursuing theircourse in the night of the 15th, they sounded frequently, but had nobottom with one hundred and forty fathom, nor any ground with the samelength of line. Nevertheless, at four in the morning of the 16th, theyplainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw itfoaming to a vast height, at not more than the distance of mile. Thewaves, which rolled in upon the reef, carried the vessel towards itwith great rapidity; and, at the same time, our people could reach noground with an anchor, and had not a breath of wind for the sail. In asituation so dreadful, there was no resource but in the boats; andmost unhappily, the pinnace was under repair. By the help, however, ofthe long-boat and the yawl, which were sent ahead to tow, the ship'shead was got round to the northward, a circumstance which might delay, if it could not prevent destruction. This was not effected till sixo'clock, and our voyagers were not then a hundred yards from the rock, upon which the same billow had washed the side of the vessel broke toa tremendous height, the very next time it rose. There was only, therefore, a dreary valley between the English and destruction; avalley no wider than the base of one wave, while the sea under themwas unfathomable. The carpenter, in the meanwhile, having hastilypatched up the pinnace, she was hoisted out, and sent ahead to tow inaid of the other boats. But all these efforts would have beenineffectual, if a light air of wind had not sprung up, just at thecrisis of our people's fate. It was so light an air, that at any othertime it would not have been observed: but it was sufficient to turnthe scale in favour of our navigators; and in conjunction with theassistance which was afforded by the boats, it gave the ship aperceptible motion obliquely from the reef. The hopes of the companynow revived: but in less than ten minutes a dead calm succeeded, andthe vessel was again driven towards the breakers, which were not atthe distance of two hundred yards. However, before the ground was lostwhich had already been gained, the same light breeze returned, andlasted ten minutes more. During this time a small opening about aquarter of a mile distant, was discovered in the reef; upon which Mr. Cook immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reportedthat its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but thatwithin it there was smooth water. This discovery presented theprospect of a possibility of escape, by pushing the vessel through theopening. Accordingly, the attempt was made, but it failed of success;for when our people, by the joint assistance of their boats and thebreeze, had reached the opening, they found that it had become highwater; and, to their great surprise, they met the tide of ebb runningout like a mill-stream. In direct contrariety to their expectations, some advantage was gained by this event. Though it was impossible togo through the opening, the stream, which prevented the Endeavour fromdoing it, carried her out about a quarter of a mile; and the boatswere so much assisted in towing her by the tide of ebb, that at noonshe had gained the distance of nearly two miles. However, there wasyet too much reason to despair of deliverance. For even if the breeze, which had now died away, had revived, our navigators were stillembayed in the reef: and the tide of ebb being spent, the tide offlood, notwithstanding their utmost efforts, drove the ship back againinto her former perilous situation. Happily, about this time, anotheropening was perceived, nearly a mile to the westward. Our commanderimmediately sent Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, to examine it; andin the meanwhile the Endeavour struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining, and sometimes losing ground. During this severeservice, every man did his duty with as much calmness and regularityas if no danger had been near. At length Mr. Hicks returned with theintelligence, that the opening, though narrow and hazardous, wascapable of being passed. The bare possibility of passing it wasencouragement sufficient to make the attempt; and indeed all dangerwas less to be dreaded by our people, than that of continuing in theirpresent situation. A light breeze having fortunately sprung up, this, in conjunction with the aid of the boats, and the very tide of floodthat would otherwise have been their destruction, enabled them toenter the opening, through which they were hurried with amazingrapidity. Such was the force of the torrent by which they were carriedalong, that they were kept from driving against either side of thechannel, which in breadth was not more than a quarter of a mile. Whilethey were shooting this gulf, their soundings were remarkablyirregular, varying from thirty to seven fathom, and the ground atbottom was foul. As soon as our navigators had gotten within the reef, they came to ananchor; and their joy was exceedingly great, at having regained asituation, which, three days before, they had quitted with the utmostpleasure and transport. Rocks and shoals, which are always dangerousto the mariner, even when they are previously known and marked, arepeculiarly dangerous in seas which have never been navigated before;and in this part of the globe they are more perilous than in anyother. Here they consist of reefs of coral rock, which rise like awall almost perpendicularly out of the deep, and are always overflowedat high water. Here, too, the enormous waves of the vast southernocean, meeting with so abrupt a resistance, break, with inconceivableviolence, in a surf which cannot be produced by any rocks or storms inthe northern hemisphere. A crazy ship, shortness of provision, and awant of every necessary, greatly increased the danger to our presentvoyagers of navigating in this ocean. Nevertheless, such is the ardourof the human mind, and so flattering is the distinction of a firstdiscoverer, that Lieutenant Cook and his companions cheerfullyencountered every peril, and submitted to every inconvenience. Theychose rather to incur the charge of imprudence and temerity, than toleave a country unexplored which they had discovered, or to afford theleast colour for its being said, that they were deficient inperseverance and fortitude. It scarcely needs to be added, that it wasthe high and magnanimous spirit of our commander, in particular, whichinspired his people with so much resolution and vigour. The lieutenant, having now gotten within the reef, determined, whatever might be the consequence, to keep the main land on board, inhis future route to the northward. His reason for this determinationwas, that, if he had gone without the reef again, he might have beencarried by it so far from the coast, as to prevent his being able toascertain whether this country did, or did not, join to New Guinea; aquestion which he had fixed upon resolving, from the first moment thathe had come within sight of land. To the opening through which theEndeavour had passed, our commander, with a proper sense of gratitudeto the Supreme Being, gave the name of Providential Channel. In themorning of the 17th, the boats had been sent out, to see whatrefreshments could be procured; and returned in the afternoon with twohundred and forty pounds of the meat of shell fish, chiefly ofcockles. Some of the cockles were as much as two men could move, andcontained twenty pounds of good meat. Mr. Banks, who had gone out inhis little boat, accompanied by Dr. Solander, brought back a varietyof curious shells, and many species of corals. In the prosecution of the voyage, our people, on the 19th, wereencompassed on every side with rocks and shoals: but, as they hadlately been exposed to much greater danger, and these objects were nowbecome familiar, they began to regard them comparatively with littleconcern. On the 21st, there being two points in view, between whichour navigators could see no land, they conceived hopes of having atlast found a passage into the Indian Sea. Mr. Cook, however, that hemight be able to determine the matter with greater certainty, resolvedto land upon an island, which lies at the south-east point of thepassage. Accordingly, he went into the boat, with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. As they were getting toshore, some of the natives seemed inclined to oppose their landing, but soon walked leisurely away. The gentlemen immediately climbed thehighest hill, from which no land could be seen between the south-westand west-south-west; so that the lieutenant had not the least doubt offinding a channel, through which he could pass to New Guinea. As hewas now about to quit the coast of New Holland, which he had tracedfrom latitude thirty-eight to this place, and which he was certain noEuropean had ever seen before, he once more hoisted English colours. He had, indeed, already taken possession of several particular partsof the country. But he now took possession of the whole eastern coast, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it, from latitude 38° to latitude 10°-1/2' south, in right of His MajestyKing George the Third, and by the name of New South Wales. The partythen fired three volleys of small arms, which were answered by thesame number from the ship. When the gentlemen had performed thisceremony upon the island, which they called Possession Island, theyre-embarked in their boat, and, in consequence of a rapid ebb tide, had a very difficult and tedious return to the vessel. On the 23rd, the wind had come round the south-west; and though it wasbut a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by a swell from the samequarter, which, in conjunction with other circumstances, confirmed Mr. Cook in his opinion, that he had arrived to the northern extremity ofNew Holland, and that he had now an open sea to the westward. Thesecircumstances afforded him peculiar satisfaction, not only because thedangers and fatigues of the voyage were drawing to a conclusion, butbecause it could no longer be doubted whether New Holland and NewGuinea were two separate islands. The north-east entrance of thestrait lies in the latitude of 10° 39' south, and in the longitude of218° 36' west; and the passage is formed by the main land, and by acongeries of islands, the north-west, called by the lieutenant thePrince of Wales's Islands, and which may probably extend as far as toNew Guinea. Their difference is very great, both in height andcircuit, and many seemed to be well covered with herbage and wood: norwas there any doubt of their being inhabited. Our commander waspersuaded, that among these islands as good passages might be found, as that through which the vessel came, and the access to which mightbe less perilous. The determination of this matter he would not haveleft to future navigators, if he had been less harassed by danger andfatigue and had possessed a ship in better condition for the purpose. To the channel through which he passed, he gave the name of EndeavourStraits. New Holland, or, as the eastern part of it was called by LieutenantCook, New South Wales, is the largest country in the known world, which does not bear the name of a continent. The length of coast alongwhich our people sailed, when reduced to a strait line, was no lessthan twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amounting nearly to twothousand miles. In fact the square surface of the island is much morethan equal to the whole of Europe. We may observe, with regard to thenatives, that their number bears no proportion to the extent of theirterritory. So many as thirty of them had never been seen together butonce, and that was at Botany Bay. Even when they appeared determinedto engage the English, they could not muster above fourteen or fifteenfighting men: and it was manifest, that their sheds and houses did notlie so close together, as to be capable of accommodating a largerparty. Indeed our navigators saw only the sea-coast on the easternside; between which and the western shore there is an immense track ofland, that is wholly unexplored. But it is evident, from the totallyuncultivated state of the country which was seen by our people, thatthis immense tract must either be altogether desolate, or at leastmore thinly inhabited than the parts which were visited. Of traffic, the natives had no idea, nor could any be communicated to them. Thethings which were given them they received, but did not appear tounderstand the signs of the English requiring a return. There was noreason to believe that they eat animal food raw. As they have novessel in which water can be boiled, they either broil their meat uponthe coals, or bake in a hole by the help of hot stones, agreeably tothe custom of the inhabitants of the South Sea islands. Fire isproduced by them with great facility, and they spread it in asurprising manner. For producing it, they take two pieces of softwood, one of which is a stick about eight or nine inches long, whilethe other piece is flat. The stick they shape into an obtuse point atone end, and pressing it upon the flat wood, turn it nimbly by holdingit between both their hands. In doing this, they often shift theirhands up, and then move them down, with a view of increasing thepressure as much as possible. By this process they obtain fire in lessthan two minutes, and from the smallest spark they carry it to anyheight or extent with great speed and dexterity. It was not possible, considering the limited intercourse which ournavigators had with the natives of New South Wales that much could belearned with regard to their language. Nevertheless, as this is anobject of no small curiosity to the learned, and is indeed of peculiarimportance in searching into the origin of the various nations thathave been discovered, Mr. Cook and his friends took some pains tocollect such a specimen of it as might, in a certain degree, answerthe purpose. Our commander did not quit the country without makingsuch observations, relative to the currents and tides upon the coast, as, while they increase the general knowledge of navigation, may be ofservice to future voyagers. The irregularity of the tides is an objectworthy of notice. From the coast of New South Wales, the lieutenant steered on the 23rdof August, for the coast of New Guinea, and on the 25th, fell upon adangerous shoal. The ship was in six fathom, but scarcely two werefound, upon sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable'slength. This shoal was of such an extent, reaching from the east roundby the north and west to the south-west, that there was no method forthe vessel to get clear of it, but by her going back the way in whichshe came. Here was another hair's breadth escape; for it was nearlyhigh water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which if the ship hadstruck, must very soon have bulged her. So dangerous was hersituation, that, if her direction had been half a cable's length more, either to the right or left, she must have struck before the signalfor the shoal could have been made. It had been Lieutenant Cook's intention to steer north-west till hehad made the south coast of New Guinea, and it was his purpose totouch upon it, if that could be found practicable. But in consequenceof the shoals he met with, he altered his course, in the hope offinding a clearer channel, and deeper water. His hope was agreeablyverified; for by noon, on the 26th, the depth of water was graduallyincreased to seventeen fathom. On the 28th, our voyagers found the seato be in many places covered with a brown scum, such as the sailorsusually called spawn. When the lieutenant first saw it he was alarmed, fearing, that the ship was again among shoals; but the depth of water, upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it was in otherplaces. The same appearance had been observed upon the coasts ofBrazil and New Holland, in which cases it was at no great distancefrom the shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the scum, butcould not determine what it was, any farther then as they saw reasonto suppose that it belonged to the vegetable kingdom. The sailors, upon meeting with more of it, gave up the notion of its being spawn, and finding a new name for it, called it sea sawdust. At day break, on the 3rd of September, our navigators came in sight ofNew Guinea, and stood in for it, with a fresh gale, till nine o'clock, when they brought to, being in three fathom water and within aboutthree or four miles of land. Upon this the pinnace was hoisted, andthe lieutenant set off from the ship with the boat's crew, accompaniedby Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks's servants, being in alltwelve persons, well armed. As soon as they came ashore, theydiscovered the prints of human feet, which could not long have beenimpressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, that the natives wereat no great distance, and there being a thick wood which reached towithin a hundred yards of the water, the gentlemen thought itnecessary to proceed with caution, lest their retreat to the boatshould be cut off. When they had walked some way along the skirts ofthe wood, they came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, at the fruit ofwhich they looked very wishfully; but not thinking it safe to climb, they were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. After theyhad advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indiansrushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, and, as they ran towardsthe English, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flewon one side of him, and burned exactly like gunpowder though withoutmaking any report. The two other natives having at the same instantdischarged their arrows, the lieutenant and his party were under thenecessity of firing, first with small shot, and a second time withball. Upon this, the three Indians ran away with great agility. As Mr. Cook had no disposition forcibly to invade this country, either togratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and wasconvinced that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, he and hiscompanions returned with all expedition towards their boat. When theywere aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives, who had come down tothe shore in aid of their countrymen and whose number now amounted tobetween sixty and a hundred. Their appearance was much the same asthat of the New Hollanders; they nearly resembled them in stature, andin having their hair short and cropped. Like them, also, they wereabsolutely naked but the colour of their skin did not seem quite sodark, which, however, might be owing to their being less dirty. Whilethe English gentlemen were viewing them, they were shouting defiance, and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. Our peoplecould not imagine what these fires were, or what purposes they wereintended to answer. Those who discharged them had in their hands ashort piece of stick, which they swung sideways from them, andimmediately there issued fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of amusket, and of as short a duration. The men on board the ship, whoobserved this surprising phenomenon, were so far deceived by it, as tobelieve that the Indians had fire-arms. To the persons in the boat, ithad the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report. The place where this transaction happened lies in the latitude of 6°15' south, and is about sixty-five leagues to the north-east of PortSaint Augustine, or Walche Caep, and is near what is called in thecharts C. De la Colta de St. Bonaventura. In every part of the coast, the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and herbage. Thecocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain-tree, flourish here inthe highest perfection; besides which, the country abounds with mostof the trees, shrubs, and plants, that are common to the South Seaislands, New Zealand, and New Holland. Soon after Mr. Cook and his party had returned to the ship, ourvoyagers made sail to the westward, the lieutenant having resolved tospend no more time upon this coast; a resolution which was greatly tothe satisfaction of a very considerable majority of his people. Someof the officers indeed were particularly urgent that a number of menmight be sent ashore, to cut down cocoa-nut trees for the sake oftheir fruit. This, however, our commander absolutely refused, asequally unjust and cruel. It was morally certain, from the precedingbehaviour of the natives, that if their property had been invaded, they would have made a vigorous effort to defend it; in which case, the lives of many of them must have been sacrificed; and perhaps, too, several of the English would have fallen in the contest. The necessityof a quarrel with the Indians would have been regretted by thelieutenant, even if he had been impelled to it by a want of thenecessaries of life; but to engage in it for the transientgratification that would arise from obtaining two or three hundredgreen cocoa-nuts, appeared in his view highly criminal. The samecalamity, at least with regard to the natives, would probably haveoccurred, if he had sought for any other place on the coast, to thenorthward and westward, where the ship might have lain so near theshore, as to cover his people with the guns when they had landed. Besides, there was cause to believe, that before such a place couldhave been found, our navigators would have been carried so far to thewestward, as to be obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side ofJava. This, in Mr. Cook's opinion, would not have been so safe apassage, as that to the south of Java, through the strait of Sunda, Another reason for his making the best of his way to Batavia, was theleakiness of the vessel, which rendered it doubtful, whether it wouldnot be necessary to heave her down when she arrived at that port. Ourcommander's resolution was farther confirmed by the consideration, that no discovery could be expected in seas which had already beennavigated, and where the coasts had been sufficiently described bothby Spanish and Dutch geographers, and especially by the latter. Theonly merit claimed by the lieutenant, in this part of his voyage, wasthe having established it as a fact beyond all controversy, that NewHolland and New Guinea are two distinct countries. Without staying, therefore, on the coast of New Guinea, the Endeavour, on the same day, directed her course to the westward, in pursuingwhich, Mr. Cook had an opportunity of rectifying the errors of formernavigators. Very early in the morning of the 6th of September, ourvoyagers passed a small island, which lay to the north-north-west; andat day-break they discovered another low island, extending from thatquarter to north-north-east. Upon the last island, which appeared tobe of considerable extent, the lieutenant would have landed to examineits produce, if the wind had not blown so fresh, as to render hisdesign impracticable. Unless these two islands belong to the Arrouislands, they have no place in the charts; and if they do belong tothe Arrou islands, they are laid down at too great a distance from NewGuinea. Some other land which was seen this day ought, by its distancefrom New Guinea, to have been part of the Arrou islands; but if anydependance can be placed on former charts, it lies a degree farther tothe south. On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude 9° 30' south, and longitude229° 34' west, our people ought to have been in sight of the WeaselIsles, which, in the charts, are laid down at the distance of twentyor twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland. But as ourcommander saw nothing of them, he concluded that they must have beenplaced erroneously. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it isconsidered, that not only these islands, but the coast which boundsthis sea, have been explored at different times, and by differentpersons, who had not all the requisites for keeping accurate journalswhich are now possessed; and whose various discoveries have beendelineated upon charts by others, perhaps at the distance of more thana century after such discoveries had been made. In pursuing their course, our navigators passed the islands of Timor, Timor-lavet, Rotte, and Seman. While they were near the two latterislands, they observed, about ten o'clock at night, on the 16th of themonth, a phenomenon in the heavens, which in many particularsresembled the Aurora Borealis, though in others it was very different. It consisted of a dull reddish light, which reached about twentydegrees above the horizon; and though its extent, at times, variedmuch, it never comprehended less than eight or ten points of thecompass. Through, and out of the general appearance, there passed raysof light of a brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed, nearly in the same manner as those of the Aurora Borealis, butentirely without the tremulous or vibratory motion which is seen inthat phenomenon. The body of this light bore south-south-east from theship, and continued, without any diminution of its brightness, tilltwelve o'clock, and probably a longer time, as the gentlemen wereprevented from observing it farther, by their retiring to sleep. By the 16th, Lieutenant Cook had gotten clear of all the islands whichhad then been laid down in the maps as situated between Timor andJava, and did not expect to meet with any other in that quarter. Butthe next morning an island was seen bearing west-south-west, and atfirst he believed that he had made a new discovery. As soon as ourvoyagers had come close in with the north side of it, they had thepleasing prospect of houses and cocoa-nut trees, and of what stillmore agreeably surprised them, numerous flocks of sheep. Many of thepeople on board were at this time in a bad state of health, and nosmall number of them had been dissatisfied with the lieutenant for nothaving touched at Timor. He readily embraced, therefore, theopportunity of landing at a place which appeared so well calculated tosupply the necessities of the company, and to remove both the sicknessand the discontent which had spread among them. This place proved tobe the island of Savu, where a settlement had lately been made by theDutch. The great design of our commander was to obtain provisions, which, after some difficulty, and some jealousy on the part of Mr. Lange, theDutch resident, were procured. These provisions were nine buffaloes, six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, many dozens of eggs, some cocoa-nuts, a few limes, a little garlic, and several hundredgallons of palm syrup. In obtaining these refreshments at a reasonableprice, the English were not a little assisted by an old Indian, whoappeared to be a person of considerable authority under the king ofthe country. The lieutenant and his friends were one day veryhospitably entertained by the king himself, though the royal etiquettedid not permit his majesty to partake of the banquet. So little in general, had the island of Savu been known, that Mr. Cookhad never seen a map or chart in which it is clearly or accuratelylaid down. The middle of it lies in about the latitude of 10° 35'south, and longitude 237° 30' west; and from the ship it presented aprospect, than which nothing can be more beautiful. This prospect, from the verdure and culture of the country, from the hills, richlyclothed, which rise in a gentle and regular ascent, and from thestateliness and beauty of the trees, is delightful to a degree thatcan scarcely be conceived by the most lively imagination. With regardto the productions and natives of the island, the account which ournavigators were enabled to give of them, and which is copious andentertaining, was, in a great measure, derived from the information ofMr. Lange. An extraordinary relation is given of the morals of the people of thisisland, and which if true, must fill every virtuous mind withpleasure. Their characters and conduct are represented asirreproachable, even upon the principles of Christianity. Though noman is permitted to have more than one wife, an illicit commercebetween the sexes is scarcely known among them. Instances of theft arevery rare; and so far are they from revenging a supposed injury bymurder, that when any difference arises between them they immediately, and implicitly refer it to the determination of their king. They willnot so much as make it the subject of private debate, lest they shouldhence be provoked to resentment and ill will. Their delicacy andcleanliness are suited to the purity of their morals. From thespecimen which is given of the language of Savu, it appears to havesome affinity with that of the South Sea islands. Many of the wordsare exactly the same, and the terms of numbers are derived from thesame origin. On the 21st of September, our navigators got under sail, and havingpursued their voyage till the 1st of October, on that day they camewithin sight of the island of Java. During their course from Savu, Lieutenant Cook allowed twenty minutes a-day for the westerly current, which he concluded must run strong at this time, especially on thecoast of Java; and accordingly, he found that this allowance wasexactly equivalent to the effect of the current upon the ship. Suchwas the sagacity of our commander's judgment in whatever related tonavigation. On the 2nd, two Dutch ships being seen to lie off Anger Point, thelieutenant sent Mr. Hicks on board one of them to inquire newsconcerning England, from which our people had so long been absent. Mr. Hicks brought back the agreeable intelligence, that the Swallow, commanded by Captain Cateret, had been at Batavia two years before. Inthe morning of the 5th, a prow came alongside of the Endeavour, with aDutch officer, who sent down to Mr. Cook a printed paper in English, duplicates of which he had in other languages. This paper wasregularly signed, in the name of the governor and council of theIndies, by their secretary, and contained nine questions, very illexpressed, two of which only the lieutenant thought proper to answer. These were what regarded the nation and name of his vessel, andwhither she was bound. On the 9th, our voyagers stood in for Bataviaroad, where they found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two Englishprivate traders, and a number of Dutch ships. Immediately a boat cameon board the Endeavour, and the officer who commanded having inquiredwho our people were, and whence they came, instantly returned withsuch answers as were given him. In the mean time Mr. Cook sent alieutenant ashore, to acquaint the governor of his arrival, and tomake an apology for not having saluted; a ceremony he had judgedbetter to omit; as he could only make use of three guns, excepting theswivels, which he was of opinion would not be heard. It being universally agreed, that the ship could not safely proceed toEurope without an examination of her bottom, our commander determinedto apply for leave to heave her down at Batavia; and for this purposehe drew up a request in writing, which, after he had waited first uponthe governor-general, and then upon the council, was readily compliedwith, and he was told, that he should have every thing he wanted. In the evening of the 10th, there was a dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, during which the mainmast of one of the DutchEast Indiamen was split, and carried away by the deck; and themaintop-mast and topgallant-mast were shivered to pieces. The strokewas probably directed by an iron spindle, which was at the maintopgallantmast head. As this ship lay very near the Endeavour, she couldscarcely have avoided sharing the same fate, had it not been for theconducting chain, which fortunately had been just gotten up, and whichconveyed the lightning over the side of the vessel. But though sheescaped the lightning, the explosion shook her like an earthquake; andthe chain at the same time appeared like a line of fire. Mr. Cook hasembraced this occasion of earnestly recommending similar chains toevery ship; and hath expressed his hope that all who read hisnarrative will be warned against having an iron spindle at themast-head. The English gentlemen had taken up their lodging and boarding at anhotel, or kind of inn, kept by the order of government. Here they metwith those impositions, in point of expense and treatment, which aretoo common to admit of much surprise. It was not long, however, thatthey submitted to ill usage. By a farther acquaintance with the mannerof dealing with their host, and by spirited remonstrances, theyprocured a better furnished table. Mr. Banks, in a few days, hired asmall house for himself and his party; and as soon as he was settledin his new habitation, sent for Tupia, who bad hitherto continued onboard on account of sickness. When he quitted the ship, and after hecame into the boat, he was exceedingly lifeless and dejected; but nosooner did he enter the town, than he appeared to be inspired withanother soul. A scene so entirely new and extraordinary filled himwith amazement. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and amultiplicity of other objects, rushing upon him at once, produced aneffect similar to what is ascribed to enchantment. His boy, Tayeto, expressed his wonder and delight in a still more rapturous manner. Hedanced along the streets in a kind of extacy, examining every objectwith a restless and eager curiosity, which was excited and gratifiedevery moment. Tupia's attention was particularly excited by thevarious dresses of the passing multitude; and when he was informed, that at Batavia every one wore the dress of his own country, heexpressed his desire of appearing in the garb of Otabeite. Accordingly, South Sea cloth being sent for from the ship, he equippedhimself with great expedition and dexterity. Lieutenant Cook imagined that at Batavia he should find it easy totake up what money he might want for repairing and refitting, theEndeavour; but in this he was mistaken. No private person could befound who had ability and inclination to furnish the sum which wasnecessary. In this exigency, the lieutenant had recourse by a writtenrequest, to the governor, from whom he obtained an order for beingsupplied out of the Dutch company's treasury. When our voyagers had been only nine days at Batavia, they began tofeel the fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after hisfirst flow of spirits had subsided, grew every day worse and worse;and Tayeto was seized with an inflamation upon his lungs. Mr. Banksand Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and in a little time almostevery person both on board and on shore, was sick. The distress of ourpeople was indeed very great and the prospect before them discouragingin the highest degree. Tupia, being desirous of breathing a freer airthan among the numerous houses that obstructed it ashore, had a tenterected for him on Cooper's island, to which he was accompanied by Mr. Banks, who attended this poor Indian with the greatest humanity, tillhe was rendered incapable of doing it, by the violent increase of hisown disorder. On the 5th of November. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon ofthe ship, a sensible, skilful man, whose loss was not a littleaggravated by the situation of the English, fell the first sacrificeto this fatal country. Tayeto died on the 9th, and Tupia, who lovedhim with the tenderness of a parent, sunk at once after the loss ofthe boy, and survived him only a few days. The disorders of Mr. Banksand Dr. Solander grew to such a height, that the physician declaredthey had no chance of preserving their lives but by removing into thecountry. Accordingly, a house was hired for them at the distance ofabout two miles from the town; where, in consequence of enjoying apurer air, and being better nursed by two Malayan women, whom they hadbought, they recovered by slow degrees. At length, Lieutenant Cook washimself taken ill; and out of the whole ship's company, not more thanten were able to do duty. In the midst of these distresses, our commander was diligently andvigorously attentive to the repair of his vessel. When her bottom cameto be examined, she was found to be in a worse condition than had beenapprehended. Her false keel and main keel were both of them greatlyinjured; a large quantity of the sheathing was torn off; and amongseveral planks which were much damaged, two of them, and the half of athird, were so worn for the length of six feet, that they were notabove the eighth part of an inch in thickness; and here the worms hadmade way quite into the timbers. In this state the Endeavour hadsailed many hundred leagues, in a quarter of the globe wherenavigation is dangerous in the highest degree. It was happy for ourvoyagers, that they were ignorant of their perilous situation; for itmust have deeply affected them, to have known, that a considerablepart of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe, and that all their lives depended upon so slight and fragile a barrierbetween them and the unfathomable ocean. The repair of the Endeavour was carried on very much to Mr. Cook'ssatisfaction. In justice to the Dutch officers and workmen, he hathdeclared, that in his opinion, there is not a marine yard in theworld, where a ship can be laid with more convenience, safety, anddispatch, or repaired with greater diligence and skill. He wasparticularly pleased with the manner of heaving down by two masts, andgives it a decided preference to the method which had hitherto beenpractised by the English. The lieutenant was not one of those on whomthe bigotry could be charged of adhering to old customs, in oppositionto the dictates of reason and experience. By the 8th of December, the Endeavour was perfectly refitted. Fromthat time to the 24th, our people were employed in completing herstock of water, provisions, and stores, in erecting some new pumps, and in various other necessary operations. All this business wouldhave been effected much sooner, if it had not been retarded by thegeneral sickness of the men. In the afternoon of the 24th, our commander took leave of the governorof Batavia, and of several other gentlemen belonging to the place, with whom he had formed connexions, and to whom he had been greatlyobliged for their civilities and assistance. In the meanwhile, anaccident intervened, which might have been attended with disagreableeffects. A seaman, who had run away from one of the Dutch ships in theroad, entered on board the Endeavour. Upon his being reclaimed, as asubject of Holland, Mr. Cook, who was on shore, declared, that if theman appeared to be a Dutchman, he should certainly be delivered up. When however, the order was carried to Mr. Hicks, who commanded onboard, he refused to surrender the seaman, alleging, that he was asubject of great Britain, born in Ireland. In this conduct, Mr. Hicksacted in perfect conformity to the lieutenant's intention anddirections. The captain of the Dutch vessel, in the next place, by amessage from the governor-general, demanded the man as a subject ofDenmark. To this Mr. Cook replied, that there must be some mistake inthe general's message, since he would never demand of him a Danishseaman, whose only crime was that of preferring the English to theDutch service. At the same time the lieutenant added, that to strewthe sincerity of his desire to avoid disputes, if the man was a Dane, he should be delivered up as a courtesy; but that, if he appeared tobe an English subject, he should be kept at all events. Soon after, aletter was brought from Mr. Hicks, containing indubitable proofs thatthe seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic majesty. Thisletter Mr. Cook sent to the governor, with an assurance to hisexcellency, that he would not part with the man on any terms. Aconduct so firm and decisive produced the desired effect, no morebeing heard of the affair. In the evening of the 25th, our commander went on board, together withMr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen who had resided constantly onshore. The gentlemen, though considerably better, were far from beingperfectly recovered. As this time, the sick persons in the shipamounted to forty, and the rest of the company were in a very feeblecondition. It was remarkable, that every individual had been illexcepting the sailmaker, who was an old man between seventy and eightyyears of age, and who was drunk every day during the residence of ourpeople at Batavia. Three seamen and Mr. Green's servant died, besidesthe surgeon, Tupia, and Tayeto. Tupia did not entirely fall asacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, and putrid air of the country. As he had been accustomed from his birth, to subsist chiefly uponvegetable food, and particularly on ripe fruit, he soon contracted thedisorders which are incident to a sea life, and would probably havesunk under them before the voyage of the English could have beencompleted, even if they had not been obliged to go to Batavia to refittheir vessel. Our navigators did not stay at this place without gaining an extensiveacquaintance with the productions of the country, and the manners andcustoms of the inhabitants. The information which was obtained onthese heads, will be found to constitute a very valuable addition towhat was heretofore known upon the subject. On Thursday the 27th of December, the Endeavour stood out to sea; andon the 5th of January, 1771, she came to an anchor, under thesouth-east side of Prince's Island. The design of this was to obtain arecruit of wood and water, and to procure some refreshments for thesick, many of whom had become much worse than they were when they leftBatavia. As soon as the vessel was secured, the lieutenant, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore, and were conducted by some Indiansthey met with to a person who was represented to be the king of thecountry. After exchanging a few compliments with his majesty, thegentlemen proceeded to business, but could not immediately come to asettlement with him in respect to the price of turtle. They were moresuccessful in their search of a watering-place, having found waterconveniently situated, and which they had reason to believe wouldprove good. As they were going off, some of the natives sold themthree turtle, under a promise that the king should not be informed ofthe transaction. On the next day a traffic was established with the Indians, upon suchterms as were offered by the English; so that by night our people hadplenty of turtle. The three which had been purchased the eveningbefore were in the mean time dressed for the ship's company, who, excepting on the preceding day, had not, for nearly the space of fourmonths, been once served with salt provisions. Mr. Banks, in theevening, paid his respects to the king at his palace, which wassituated in the middle of a rice field. His majesty was busilyemployed in dressing his own supper; but this did not prevent him fromreceiving his visitant in a very gracious manner. During the followingdays the commerce with the natives for provisions was continued; inthe course of which they brought down to the trading place, not only aquantity of turtle, but fowls, fish, monkeys, small deer, and somevegetables. On the evening of the 11th, when Mr. Cook went on shore to see howthose of his people conducted their business, who were employed inwooding and watering, he was informed that an axe had been stolen. Asit was a matter of consequence to prevent others from being encouragedto commit thefts of the like kind, he resolved not to pass over theoffence, but to insist upon redress from the king. Accordingly, aftersome altercation, his majesty promised that the axe should be restoredin the morning, and the promise was faithfully performed. On the 15th, our commander weighed, and stood out for sea. Prince'sIsland, where he lay about ten days, was formerly much frequented bythe India ships of many nations, and especially those of England, butit had lately been forsaken, on account of the supposed badness of itswater. This supposition, however, arose from a want of duly examiningthe brook by which the water is supplied. It is, indeed, brackish atthe lower part of the brook, but higher up it will be found excellent. The lieutenant, therefore, was clearly of opinion, that Prince'sIsland is a more eligible place for ships to touch at, than either atNorth Island or New Bay; from neither of which places any considerablequantity, of other refreshments can be procured. As the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, theseeds of disease, which had been received at Batavia, appeared withthe most threatening symptoms, and reduced our navigators to a verymelancholy situation. The ship was, in fact, nothing better than anhospital, in which those who could go about were not sufficient for adue attendance upon those who were sick. Lest the water which had beentaken in at Prince's island should have had any share in adding to thedisorder of the men, the lieutenant ordered it to be purified withlime; and, as a farther remedy against infection, he directed all theparts of the vessel between the decks to be washed with vinegar. Themalady had taken too deep root to be speedily eradicated. Mr. Bankswas reduced so low by it, that for some time there was no hope of hislife; and so fatal was the disease to many others, that almost everynight a dead body was committed to the sea. There were buried, in thecourse of about six weeks, Mr. Sporing, a gentleman who was one of Mr. Banks's assistants; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr. Green, the astronomer; the boatswain, the carpenter, and his mate; Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, another midshipman, the old jolly sailmakerand his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, twoof the carpenter's crew, and nine seamen. In all, the loss amounted tothree and twenty persons, besides the seven who died at Batavia. It isprobable that these calamitous events, which could not fail of makinga powerful impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, might giveoccasion to his turning his thoughts more zealously to those methodsof preserving the health of seamen, which he afterwards pursued withsuch remarkable success. On Friday the 15th of March, the Endeavour arrived off the Cape ofGood Hope; and as soon as she was brought to an anchor, our commanderwaited upon the governor, from whom be received assurances that heshould be furnished with every supply which the country could afford. His first care was to provide a proper place for the sick, whosenumber was not small; and a house was speedily found, where it wasagreed that they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of twoshillings a day for each person. The run from Java Head to the Cape of Good Hope did not furnish manysubjects of remark, that could be of any great use to future voyagers. Such observations, however, as occurred to him, the lieutenant hasbeen careful to record, not being willing to omit the leastcircumstance that may contribute to the safety and facility ofnavigation. The lieutenant, having lain at the Cape to recover the sick, toprocure stores, and to refit his vessel, till the 14th of April, thenstood out of the bay, and proceeded on his voyage homeward. In themorning of the 29th, he crossed his first meridian, havingcircumnavigated the globe in the direction from east to west. Theconsequence of which was, that he lost a day, an allowance for whichhad been made at Batavia. On the 1st of May be arrived at St Helena, where he staid till the 4th to refresh; during which time Mr. Banksemployed himself in making the complete circuit of the island, and invisiting the places most worthy of observation. The manner in which slaves are described as being treated in thisisland, must be mentioned with indignation. According to ourcommander's representation, while every kind of labour is performed bythem, they are not furnished either with horses or with any of thevarious machines which art has invented to facilitate their task. Carts might conveniently be used in some parts, and where the groundis too steep for them, wheelbarrows might be employed to greatadvantage; and yet there is not a wheelbarrow in the whole island. Though every thing which is conveyed from place to place is done byslaves alone, they have not the simple convenience of a porter's knot, but carry their burden upon their heads. They appeared to be amiserable race, worn out by the united operation of excessive labourand ill usage; and Mr. Cook was sorry to observe, and to say, thatinstances of wanton cruelty were much more frequent among hiscountrymen at St. Helena, than among the Dutch, who are generallyreproached with want of humanity, both at Batavia and the Cape of GoodHope. It is impossible for a feeling mind to avoid being concernedthat such an account should be given of the conduct of any who areentitled to the name of Britons. The lieutenant's reproof, if just, hath, it may be hoped, long before this reached the place, andproduced some good effect. [7] If slavery, that disgrace to religion, to humanity, and, I will add, to sound policy, must still becontinued, every thing ought to be done which can tend to soften itshorrors. [Footnote 7: Near the conclusion of Captain Cook's second voyage, there is the following short note. 'In the account given of St. Helena, in the narrative of my former voyage, I find some mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton cruelty over their slaves; and they have had wheel carriages and porters' knots for many years. ' This note I insert with pleasure. Nevertheless, I cannot think that the lieutenant could have given so strong a representation of things, if, at the time in which it was written, it had been wholly without foundation. ] When our commander departed from St. Helena, on the 4th, it was incompany with the Portland man-of-war, and twelve Indiamen. With thisfleet he continued to sail till the 10th, when, perceiving that theEndeavour proceeded much more heavily than any of the other vessels, and that she was not likely to get home so soon as the rest, he made asignal to speak with the Portland. Upon this captain Elliot himselfcame on board, and Mr. Cook delivered to him the common log-books ofhis ship, and the journals of some of the officers. The Endeavour, however, kept in company with the fleet till the morning of the 23rd, at which time there was not a single vessel in sight. On that day diedMr. Hicks, and in the evening his body was committed to the sea, withthe usual ceremonies. Mr. Charles Clerke, a young man extremely wellqualified for the station, and whose name will hereafter frequentlyoccur, received an order from Mr. Cook to act as lieutenant in Mr. Hicks's room. The rigging and sails of the ship were now become so bad, thatsomething was continually giving way. Nevertheless, our commanderpursued his course in safety; and on the 10th of June, land, whichproved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the boy whohad first seen New Zealand. On the 11th, the lieutenant ran up thechannel. At six the next morning he passed Beachy Head; and in theafternoon of the same day, he came to an anchor in the Downs, and wenton shore at Deal. Thus ended Mr. Cook's first voyage round the world, in which he hadgone through so many dangers, explored so many countries, andexhibited the strongest proofs of his possessing an eminentlysagacious and active mind; a mind that was equal to every perilousenterprise, and to the boldest and most successful efforts ofnavigation and discovery. CHAPTER. III. Account of Captain Cook during the period between his first and secondVoyage. The manner in which Lieutenant Cook had performed his circumnavigationof the globe justly entitled him to the protection of government andthe favour of his sovereign. Accordingly, he was promoted to be acommander in his majesty's navy, by commission bearing date on the29th of August, 1771. Mr. Cook, on this occasion, from a certainconsciousness of his own merit, wished to have been appointed a postcaptain. But the Earl of Sandwich, who was now at the head of theAdmiralty board, though he had the greatest regard for our navigator, could not concede to his request, because a compliance with it wouldhave been inconsistent with the order of the naval service. Thedifference was in point of rank only, and not of advantage. Acommander has the same pay as a post captain, and his authority is thesame when he is in actual employment. The distinction is a necessarystep in the progress to the higher honours of the profession. It cannot be doubted, but that the president and council of the RoyalSociety were highly satisfied with the manner in which the transit ofVenus had been observed. The papers of Mr. Cook and Mr. Green relativeto this subject, were put into the hands of the astronomer royal, tobe by him digested, and that he might deduce from them the importantconsequences to science which resulted from the observation. This wasdone by him with an accuracy and ability becoming his high knowledgeand character. On the 21st of May, 1772, Captain Cook communicated tothe Royal Society, in a letter addressed to Dr. Maskelyne, an 'Accountof the flowing of the tides in the South Sea, as observed on board hisMajesty's Bark, the Endeavour. ' The reputation our navigator had acquired by his late voyage wasdeservedly great; and the desire of the public, to be acquainted withthe new scenes and new objects which were now brought to light, wasardently excited. It is not surprising, therefore, that differentattempts were made to satisfy the general curiosity. There soonappeared a publication, entitled, 'A Journal of a voyage round theWorld. ' This was the production of some person who had been upon theexpedition; and though his account was dry and imperfect, it served, in a certain degree, to relieve the eagerness of inquiry. The journalof Sidney Parkinson, draftsman to Sir Joseph Banks, to whom itbelonged by ample purchase, was likewise printed, from a copysurreptitiously obtained; but an injunction from the Court of Chanceryfor some time prevented its appearance. This work, though dishonestlygiven to the world, was recommended by plates. But it was Dr. Hawkesworth's account of Lieutenant Cook's voyage which completelygratified the public curiosity. This account, which was written byauthority, was drawn up from the journal of the lieutenant, and thepapers of Sir Joseph Banks; and, besides the merit of the composition, derived an extraordinary advantage from the number and excellence ofits charts and engravings, which were furnished at the expense ofgovernment. The large price given by the booksellers for this work, and the avidity with which it was read, displayed, in the strongestlight, the anxiety of the nation to be fully informed in every thingthat belonged to the late navigation and discoveries. Captain Cook, during his voyage, had sailed over the Pacific Ocean inmany of those latitudes, in which a southern continent had beenexpected to lie. He had ascertained, that neither New Zealand nor NewHolland were parts of such a continent. But the general questionconcerning its existence had not been determined by him, nor did he goout for that purpose, though some of the reasons on which the notionof it had been adopted were dispelled in the course of his navigation. It is well known how fondly the idea of a _Terra Australisincognita_ had for nearly two centuries been entertained. Manyplausible philosophical arguments have been urged in its support, andmany facts alleged in its favour. The writer of this narrative fullyremembers how much his imagination was captivated, in the more earlypart of his life, with the hypothesis of a southern continent. He hasoften dwelt upon it with rapture, and been highly delighted with theauthors who contended for its existence, and displayed the mightyconsequences which would result from its being discovered. Though hisknowledge was infinitely exceeded by that of some able men who paid aparticular attention to the subject, he did not come behind them inthe sanguineness of his hopes and expectation. Every thing, however, which relates to science must be separated from fancy, and brought tothe test of experiment: and here was an experiment richly deserving tobe tried. The object, indeed, was of peculiar magnitude, and worthy tobe pursued by a great prince, and a great nation. Happily, the period was arrived in Britain for the execution of themost important scientific designs. A regard to matters of this kind, though so honourable to crowned heads, had heretofore been too muchneglected even by some of the best of our princes. Our presentsovereign had already distinguished his reign by his patronage ofscience and literature, but the beginnings which had hitherto beenmade were only the pledges of future munificence. With respect to theobject now in view, the gracious dispositions of his majesty wereardently seconded by the noble lord who had been placed at the head ofthe board of admiralty. The Earl of Sandwich was possessed of a mind, which was capable of comprehending and encouraging the most enlargedviews and schemes with regard to navigation and discovery. Accordingly, it was by his particular recommendation that a resolutionwas formed for the appointment of an expedition, finally to determinethe question concerning the existence of a southern continent. Quirosseems to have been the first person, who had any idea that such acontinent existed, and he was the first that was sent out for the solepurpose of ascertaining the fact. He did not succeed in the attempt;and the attempts of various navigators down to the present century, were equally unsuccessful. When the design of accomplishing this great object was resolved upon, it did not admit of any hesitation by whom it was to be carried intoexecution. No person was esteemed equally qualified with Captain Cook, for conducting an enterprise, the view of which was to give the utmostpossible extent to the geography of the globe, and the knowledge ofnavigation. For the greater advantage of the undertaking, it wasdetermined that two ship should be employed; and much attention waspaid to the choice of them, and to their equipment for the service. After mature deliberation by the navy board, during which particularregard was had to the captain's wisdom and experience, it was agreed, that no vessels were so proper for discoveries in distant unknownparts, as those which were constructed like the Endeavour. Thisopinion concurring with that of the Earl of Sandwich, the admiraltycame to a resolution that two ships should be provided of a similarconstruction. Accordingly, two vessels, both of which had been builtat Whitby, by the same person who built the Endeavour, were purchasedof Captain William Hammond, of Hull. They were about fourteen orsixteen months old at the time when they were bought, and in CaptainCook's judgment, were as well adapted to the intended service as ifthey had been expressly constructed for that purpose. The largest ofthe two, which consisted of four hundred and sixty-two tons burden, was named the Resolution. To the other, which was three hundred andthirty-six tons burden, was given the name of the Adventure. On the28th of November, 1771, Captain Cook was appointed to the command ofthe former; and, about the same time, Mr. Tobias Furneaux was promotedto the command of the latter. The complement of the Resolution, including officers and men, was fixed at a hundred and twelve persons;and that of the Adventure, at eighty one. In the equipment of theseships, every circumstance was attended to that could contribute to thecomfort and success of the voyage. They were fitted in the mostcomplete manner, and supplied with every extraordinary article whichwas suggested to be necessary or useful. Lord Sandwich, whose zeal wasindefatigable upon this occasion, visited the vessels from time totime, to be assured that the whole equipment was agreeable to hiswishes, and to the satisfaction of those who were to engage in theexpedition. Nor were the navy and victualling boards wanting inprocuring for the ships the very best of stores and provisions, withsome alterations in the species of them, that were adapted to thenature of the enterprise; besides which, there was an ample supply ofantiscorbutic articles, such as malt, sour krout, salted cabbage, portable broth saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and inspissatedjuice of wort and beer. No less attention was paid to the cause of science in general, theadmiralty engaged Mr. William Hodges, an excellent landscape painter, to embark in the voyage, in order to make drawings and paintings ofsuch objects, as could not so well be comprehended from writtendescription. Mr. John Reinhold Forster and his son were fixed upon toexplore and collect the natural history of the countries which mightbe visited, and an ample sum was granted by parliament for thepurpose. That nothing might be wanting to accomplish the scientificviews of the expedition, the board of longitude agreed with Mr. William Wales and Mr. William Bayley, to make astronomicalobservations. Mr. Wales was stationed in the Resolution, and Mr. Bayley in the Adventure. By the same board they were furnished withthe best of instruments, and particularly with four time-pieces, threeconstructed by Arnold, and one by Mr. Kendal, on Mr. Harrison'sprinciples. Though Captain Cook had been appointed to the command of theResolution on the 28th of November 1771, such were the preparationsnecessary for so long and important a voyage, and the impedimentswhich occasionally and unavoidably occurred, that the ship did notsail from Deptford till the 9th of April following, nor did she leaveLong Reach till the 10th of May. In plying down the river, it wasfound necessary to put into Sheerness, in order to make somealterations in her upper works. These the officers of the yard weredirected immediately to take in hand; and Lord Sandwich and Sir HughPalliser came down to see them executed in the most effectual manner. The ship being again completed for sea by the 22d of June, CaptainCook on that day sailed from Sheerness, and, on the 3d of July, joinedthe Adventures in Plymouth Sound. Lord Sandwich, in his return from avisit to the dock-yards, having met the Resolution on the precedingevening, his lordship and Sir Hugh Palliser gave the last mark oftheir great attention to the object of the voyage, by coming on board, to assure themselves, that every thing was done which was agreeable toour commander's wishes, and that his vessel was equipped entirely tohis satisfaction. At Plymouth, Captain Cook received his instructions; with regard towhich, without entering into a minute detail of them, it is sufficientto say, that he was sent out upon the most enlarged plan of discovery, that is known in the history of navigation. He was instructed not onlyto circumnavigate the whole globe, but to circumnavigate it in highsouthern latitudes, making such traverses, from time to time, intoevery corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as mightfinally and effectually resolve the much agitated question about theexistence of a southern continent, in any part of the southernhemisphere, to which access could be had by the efforts of the boldestand most skilful navigators. CHAPTER IV. Narrative of Captain Cook's second Voyage round the World. On the 13th of July, Captain Cook sailed from Plymouth, and on the29th of the same month anchored in Funchiale Road, in the island ofMadeira. Having obtained a supply of water, wine, and othernecessaries at that island, he left it on the 1st of August, andsailed to the southward. As he proceeded in his voyage, he made threepuncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt; and the liquorproduced was very brisk and drinkable. The heat of the weather, andthe agitation of the ship, had hitherto withstood all the endeavoursof our people to prevent this juice from being in a high state offermentation. If it could be kept from fermenting, it would be a mostvaluable article at sea. The captain, having found that his stock of water would not last tothe Cape of Good Hope, without putting his men to a scanty allowance, resolved to stop at St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verd islands, for asupply. At Port Praya, in this island, he anchored on the 10th ofAugust, and by the 14th had completed his water, and procured someother refreshments; upon which he set sail and prosecuted his course. He embraced the occasion, which his touching at St. Jago afforded him, of giving such a delineation and description of Port Praya, and of thesupplies there to be obtained, as might be of service to futurenavigators. On the 20th of the month, the rain poured down upon our voyagers, notin drops but in streams; and the wind at the same time being variableand rough, the people were obliged to attend so constantly upon thedecks, that few of them escaped being completely soaked. Thiscircumstance is mentioned, to show the method that was taken byCaptain Cook to preserve his men from the evil consequences of the wetto which they had been exposed. He had every thing to fear from therain, which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. But toguard against this effect, he pursued some hints that had beensuggested to him by Sir Hugh Palliser and Captain Campbell, and tookcare that the ship should be aired and dried with fires made betweenthe decks, and that the damp places of the vessel should be smoked;beside which the people were ordered to air their bedding and to washand dry their clothes, whenever there was an opportunity. The resultof these precautions was, that there was not one sick person on boardthe Resolution. Captain Cook, on the 8th of September, crossed the line in thelongitude of 8° west, and proceeded, without meeting anythingremarkable, till the 11th of October. When at 6h. 24m. 12s. By Mr. Kendal's watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed; soon afterwhich the gentlemen prepared to observe the end of the eclipse. Theobservers were, the captain himself, and Mr. Forster, Mr. Wales, Mr. Pickersgill, Mr. Gilbert, and Mr. Harvey. Our commander had been informed, before he left England, that hesailed at an improper season of the year, and that he should meet withmuch calm weather, near and under the line. But though such weathermay happen in some years, it is not always, or even generally to beexpected. So far was it from being the case with Captain Cook, that hehad a brisk south-west wind in those very latitudes where the calmshad been predicted: nor was he exposed to any of the tornadoes, whichare so much spoken of by other navigators. On the 29th of the month, between eight and nine o'clock at night, when our voyagers were nearthe Cape of Good Hope, the whole sea, within the compass of theirsight, became at once, as it were, illuminated. The captain had beenformerly convinced, by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, that suchappearances in the ocean were occasioned by insects. Mr. Forster, however, seemed disposed to adopt a different opinion. To determinethe question, our commander ordered some buckets of water to be drawnup from alongside the ship, which were found full of an innumerablequantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin'shead, and quite transparent. Though no life was perceived in them, there could be no doubt of their being living animals, when in theirown proper element: and Mr. Forster became now well satisfied thatthey were the cause of the sea's illumination. On the 30th, the Resolution and Adventure anchored in Table Bay; soonafter which Captain Cook went on shore, and, accompanied by CaptainFurneaux, and the two Mr. Forsters, waited on Baron Plettenberg, thegovernor of the Cape of Good Hope, who received the gentlemen withgreat politeness, and promised them every assistance the place couldafford. From him our commander learned, that two French ships from theMauritius, about eight months before, had discovered land in thelatitude of 48° south, along which they sailed forty miles, till theycame to a bay, into which they were upon the point of entering, whenthey were driven off, and separated in a hard gale of wind. Previouslyto this misfortune, they had lost some of their boats and people, thathad been sent to sound the bay. Captain Cook was also informed byBaron Plettenberg, that in the month of March, two other ships fromthe island of Mauritius, had touched at the Cape in their way to theSouth Pacific Ocean; where they were going to make discoveries, underthe command of M. Marion. From the healthy condition of the crews, both of the Resolution andAdventure, it was imagined by the captain that his stay at the Capewould be very short. But the necessity of waiting till the requisiteprovisions could be prepared and collected, kept him more than threeweeks at this place; which time was improved by him in ordering boththe ships to be caulked and painted, and in taking care that, in everyrespect, their condition should be as good as when they left England. On the 22d of November, our commander sailed from the Cape of GoodHope, and proceeded on his voyage, in search of a southern continent. Having gotten clear of the land, he directed his course for CapeCircumcision; and, judging that cold weather would soon approach, heordered slops to be served to such of the people as were in want ofthem, and gave to each man the fear-nought jacket and trowsers allowedby the admiralty. On the 29th, the wind, which was west-north-west, increased to a storm, that continued, with some few intervals ofmoderate weather, till the 6th of December. By this gale, which wasattended with hail and rain, and which blew at times with suchviolence that the ships could carry no sails, our voyagers were drivenfar to the eastward of their intended course, and no hopes were leftto the captain of reaching Cape Circumcision. A still greatermisfortune was the loss of the principal part of the live stock onboard, consisting of sheep, hogs, and geese. At the same time, thesudden transition from warm mild weather, to weather which wasextremely cold and wet, was so severely felt by our people, that itwas necessary to make some addition to their allowance of spirits, bygiving each of them a dram on particular occasions. Our navigators, on the 10th of December, began to meet with islands ofice. One of these islands was so much concealed from them by thehaziness of the weather, accompanied with snow and sleet, that theywere steering directly towards it, and did not see it till it was at aless distance than that of a mile. Captain Cook judged it to be aboutfifty feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at the top, and its sides rose in a perpendicular direction, against which the seabroke to a great height. The weather continuing to be hazy, thecaptain, on account of the ice islands, was obliged to proceed withthe utmost caution. Six of them were passed on the 12th, some of whichwere nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high; nevertheless, such were the force and height of the waves, that the sea broke quiteover them. Hence was exhibited a view, that for a few moments waspleasing to the eye; but the pleasure was soon swallowed up in thehorror which seized upon the mind, from the prospect of danger. For ifa ship should be so unfortunate as to get on the weather side of oneof these islands, she would be dashed to pieces in a moment. The vessels, on the 14th, were stopped by an immense field of low ice, to which no end could be seen, either to the east, west, or south. Indifferent parts of this field were islands or hills of ice, like thosewhich our voyagers had found floating in the sea, and twenty of whichhad presented themselves to view the day before. Some of the people onboard imagined that they saw land over the ice, and Captain Cookhimself at first entertained the same sentiment. But upon morenarrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances theymade when seen through the haze, he was induced to change his opinion. On the 18th, though in the morning our navigators had been quiteimbayed, they were, notwithstanding, at length enabled to get clear ofthe field of ice. They were, however, at the same time, carried inamong the ice islands, which perpetually succeeded one another; whichwere almost equally dangerous; and the avoiding of which was a matterof the greatest difficulty. But perilous as it is to sail in a thickfog, among these floating rocks, as our commander properly calledthem; this is preferable to the being entangled with immense fields ofice under the same circumstances. In this latter case the great dangerto be apprehended, is the getting fast in the ice; a situation whichwould be alarming in the highest degree. It had been a generally received opinion, that such ice as hath nowbeen described, is formed in bays and rivers. Agreeably to thissupposition, our voyagers were led to believe that land was not fardistant, and that it lay to the southward behind the ice. As, therefore, they had sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of theice, without finding a passage to the south, Captain Cook determinedto run thirty or forty leagues to the east, and afterward to endeavourto get to the southward. If, in this attempt, he met with no land orother impediment, his design was to stretch behind the ice, and thusto bring the matter to a decision. The weather, at this time, affectedthe senses with a feeling of cold much greater than that which waspointed out by the thermometer, so that the whole crew complained. Inorder the better to enable them to sustain the severity of the cold, the Captain directed the sleeves of their jackets to be lengthenedwith baize; and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, strengthened with canvass. These precautions greatly contributed totheir comfort and advantage. It is worthy of observation, thatalthough the weather was as sharp, on the 25th of December, as mighthave been expected, in the same month of the year, in any part ofEngland, this was the middle of summer with our navigators. Some ofthe people now appearing to have symptoms of the scurvy, fresh wortwas given them every day, prepared under the direction of thesurgeons, from the malt which had been provided for the purpose. By the 29th, it became sufficiently ascertained, from the course ourcommander had pursued, that the field of ice, along which the shipshad sailed, did not join to any land as had been conjectured. At thistime, Captain Cook came to a resolution, provided he met with noimpediment, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision. While he was prosecuting this design, a gale arose, on the 31st, whichbrought with it such a sea, as rendered it very dangerous for thevessels to remain among the ice; and the danger was increased bydiscovering an immense field to the north, which extended farther thanthe eye could reach. As our voyagers were not above two or three milesfrom this field, and were surrounded by loose ice, there was no timeto deliberate. They hauled to the South; and though they happily gotclear, it was not till the ships had received several hard knocks fromthe loose pieces, which were of the largest kind. On Friday, the 1stof January, 1773, the gale abated; and on the next day, in theafternoon, our people had the felicity of enjoying the sight of themoon, the face of which had not been seen by them but once since theyhad departed from the Cape of Good Hope. Hence a judgment may beformed of the sort of weather they had been exposed to, from the timeof their leaving that place. The present opportunity was eagerlyseized, for making several observations of the sun and moon. Captain Cook was now nearly in the same longitude which is assigned toCape Circumcision, and about ninety-five leagues to the south of thelatitude in which it is said to lie. At the same time the weather wasso clear, that land might have been seen at the distance of fourteenor fifteen leagues. He concluded it, therefore, to be very probable, that what Bouvet took for land was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field ice. Our present navigators had naturallybeen led into a similar mistake. The conjecture, that such ice as hadlately been seen was joined to land, was a very plausible one, thoughnot founded on fact. Upon the whole, there was good reason to believe, that no land was to be met with, under this meridian, between thelatitude of fifty-five and fifty-nine, where some had been supposed toexist. Amidst the obstructions Captain Cook was exposed to, from the iceislands which perpetually succeeded each other, he derived oneadvantage from them, and that was, a supply of fresh water. Though themelting and stowing away of the ice takes up some time, and is, indeed, rather tedious, this method of watering is otherwise the mostexpeditious our commander had ever known. The water produced wasperfectly sweet and well tasted. Upon the ice islands, penguins, albatrosses, and other birds were frequently seen. It had hithertobeen the received opinion, that such birds never go far from land, andthat the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. That thisopinion is not well founded, at least where ice islands exist, was nowevinced by multiplied experience. By Sunday the 17th of January, Captain Cook reached the latitude of67° 15' south, when he could advance no farther. At this time the icewas entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent from east towest-south-west, without the least appearance of any opening. Thecaptain, therefore, thought it no longer prudent to persevere insailing southward; especially as the summer was already half spent, and there was little reason to hope that it would be found practicableget round the ice. Having taken this resolution, he determined toproceed directly in search of the land which had lately beendiscovered by the French; and as, in pursuing his purpose, the weatherwas clear at intervals, he spread the ships abreast four miles fromeach other, in order the better to investigate any thing that mightlie in their way. On the 1st of February our voyagers were in thelatitude of 48° 30' south, and in longitude 58° 7' east, nearly in themeridian of the island of St. Mauritius. This was the situation inwhich the land said to have been discovered by the French was to beexpected; but as no signs of it had appeared, our commander bore awayto the east. Captain Furneaux, on the same day, informed Captain Cook, that he had just seen a large float of sea, or rock weed, and about itseveral of the birds called divers. These were certain signs of thevicinity of land, though whether it lay to the east or west could notpossibly be known. Our commander, therefore, formed the design ofproceeding in his present latitude four or five degrees of longitudeto the west of the meridian he was now in, and then to pursue hisresearches eastward. The west and north-west winds, which hadcontinued for some days, prevented him from carrying this purpose intoexecution. However, he was convinced from the perpetual high sea hehad lately met with, that there could be no great extent of land tothe west. While Captain Cook, on the next day, was steering eastward, CaptainFurneaux told him that he thought the land was to the north-west ofthem; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth, when thewind blew in that direction. This observation was by no meansconformable to the remarks which had been made by our commanderhimself. Nevertheless, such was his readiness to attend to everysuggestion, that he resolved to clear up the point, if the wind wouldadmit of his getting to the west in any reasonable time. The wind, byveering to the north, did admit of his pursuing the search; and theresult of it was, his conviction that if any land was near, it couldonly be an island of no considerable extent. Captain Cook and his philosophical friends, while they were traversingthis part, of the southern ocean, paid particular attention to thevariation of the compass, which they found to be from 27° 50' to 30°26' west. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4', was thenearest the truth, as it coincided with the variation observed onboard the Adventure. One unaccountable circumstance is worthy ofnotice, though it did not now occur for the first time. It is, thatwhen the sun was on the starboard of the ship, the variation was theleast; and when on the larboard side, the greatest. On the 8th, our commander, in consequence of no signals having beenanswered by the Adventure, had reason to apprehend that a separationhad taken place. After waiting two days, during which guns were keptdischarging, and false fires were burned in the night, the fact wasconfirmed; so that the Resolution was obliged to proceed alone in hervoyage. As she pursued her course, penguins and other birds, from timeto time, appeared in great numbers; the meeting with which gave ournavigators some hopes of finding land, and occasioned variousspeculations with regard to its situation. Experience, however, convinced them, that no stress was to be laid on such hopes. They wereso often deceived, that they could no longer look upon any of theoceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of thevicinity of land. In the morning of the 17th, between midnight and three o'clock, lightswere seen in the heavens, similar to those which are known in thenorthern hemisphere, by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cookhad never heard that an Aurora Australis had been seen before. Theofficer of the watch observed, that it sometimes broke out in spiralrays, and in a circular form; at which time, its light was verystrong, and its appearance beautiful. It was not perceived to have anyparticular direction. On the contrary, at various times, it wasconspicuous in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its lightthroughout the whole atmosphere. On the 20th, our navigators imagined that they saw land to thesouth-west. Their conviction of its real existence was so strong, thatthey had no doubt of the matter; and accordingly they endeavoured towork up to it, in doing which the weather was favourable to theirpurpose. However what had been taken for land proved only to beclouds, that in the evening entirely disappeared, and left a clearhorizon, in which nothing could be discerned but ice islands. At nightthe Aurora Australis was again seen, and the appearance it assumed wasvery brilliant and luminous. It first discovered itself in the east, and in a short time spread over the whole heavens. In the night of the 23rd, when the ship was in latitude 61° 52' south, and longitude 95° 2' east, the weather being exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, our voyagers were on every sidesurrounded with danger. In such a situation it was natural for them towish for daylight: but daylight, when it came, served only to increasetheir apprehensions, by exhibiting those huge mountains of ice totheir view, which the darkness had prevented them from seeing. Theseunfavourable circumstances, at so advanced a season of the year, discouraged Captain Cook from putting into execution a resolution hehad formed, of once more crossing the antarctic circle. Accordingly, early in the morning of the 24th, he stood to the north, with a veryhard gale, and a very high sea, which made great destruction among theice islands. But so far was this incident from being of any advantageto our navigators, that it greatly increased the number of pieces theyhad to avoid. The large pieces, which broke from the ice islands, werefound to be much more dangerous than the islands themselves. While thelatter rose so high out of the water, that they could generally beseen, unless the weather was very thick and hazy, before our peoplenearly approached them, the others could not be discerned, in thenight, till they were under the ship's bows. These dangers, however, were now become so familiar to the captain and his company, that theapprehensions they caused were never of long duration; and acompensation was, in some degree, made for them, by the seasonablesupplies of fresh water, which the ice islands afforded, and by theirvery romantic appearance. The foaming and dashing of the waves intothe curious holes and caverns which were formed in many of themgreatly heightened the scene; and the whole exhibited a view, that atonce filled the mind with admiration and horror, and could only bedescribed by the hand of an able painter. In sailing from the 25th to the 28th, the wind was accompanied with alarge hollow sea, which rendered Captain Cook certain, that no land, of any considerable extent, could lie within a hundred or a hundredand fifty leagues from east to south-west. Though this was still thesummer season in that part of the world, and the weather was becomesomewhat warmer than it had been before, yet such were the effects ofthe cold, that a sow having farrowed nine pigs in the morning, all ofthem, notwithstanding the utmost care to prevent it, were killedbefore four o'clock in the afternoon. From the same cause, the captainhimself and several of his people had their fingers and toeschilblained. For some days afterward, the cold considerably abated;but still it could not be said that there was summer weather, according to our commander's ideas of summer in the northernhemisphere, as far as sixty degrees of latitude, which was nearly asfar as he had then been. As he proceeded on his voyage, from the 28th of February to the 11thof March, he had ample reason to conclude, from the swell of the seaand other circumstances, that there could be no land to the south, butwhat must lie at a great distance. The weather having been clear on the 13th and 14th, Mr. Wales had anopportunity of getting some observations of the sun and moon; theresults of which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58° 22'south, gave 136° 22' east longitude. Mr. Kendal's and Mr. Arnold'swatches gave each of them 134° 42'; and this was the first and onlytime in which they had pointed out the same longitude, since the shipshad departed from England. The greatest difference, however, betweenthem, since our voyagers had left the Cape, had not much exceeded twodegrees. From the moderate, and what might almost be called pleasant weather, which had occurred for two or three days, Captain Cook began to wishthat he had been a few degrees of latitude farther south; and he waseven tempted to incline his course that way. But he soon met withweather which convinced him that he had proceeded full far enough; andthat the time was approaching when these seas could not be navigatedwithout enduring intense cold. As he advanced in his course, he becameperfectly assured, from repeated proofs, that he had left no landbehind him in the direction of west-south-west; and that no land layto the south on this side sixty degrees of latitude. He came, therefore, to a resolution, on the 17th, to quit the high southernlatitudes, and to proceed to New Zealand, with a view of looking forthe Adventure, and of refreshing his people. He had, also, somethoughts, and even a desire, of visiting the east coast of VanDieman's Land, in order to satisfy himself whether it joined the coastof New South Wales. The wind however, not permitting him to executethis part of his design, he shaped his course for New Zealand, insight of which he arrived on the 25th, and where he came to anchor onthe day following, in Dusky Bay. He had now been a hundred andseventeen days at sea, during which time he had sailed three thousandsix hundred and sixty-leagues without having once come within sight ofland. After so long a voyage, in a high southern latitude, it mightreasonably have been expected, that many of Captain Cook's peoplewould be ill of the scurvy. This, however, was not the case. Sosalutary were the effects of the sweet wort, and several articles ofprovision, and especially of the frequent airing and sweetening of theship, that there was only one man on board who could be said to bemuch afflicted with the disease; and even in that man, it was chieflyoccasioned by a bad habit of body, and a complication of otherdisorders. As our commander did not like the place in which he had anchored, hesent Lieutenant Pickersgill over to the south-east side of the bay, insearch of a better; and the lieutenant succeeded in finding a harbourthat was in every respect desirable. In the meanwhile, thefishing-boat was very successful; returning with fish sufficient forthe whole crew's supper and in the morning of the next day, as manywere caught as served for dinner. Hence were derived certain hopes ofbeing plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did the shores andwoods appear more destitute of wild fowl; so that our people had theprospect of enjoying, with ease, what, in their situation, might becalled the luxuries of life. These agreeable circumstances determinedCaptain Cook to stay some time in the bay, in order to examine itthoroughly; as no one had ever landed before on any of the southernparts of New Zealand. On the 27th, the ship entered Pickersgill Harbour; for so it wascalled, from the name of the gentleman by whom it had first beendiscovered. Here wood, for fuel and other purposes, was immediately athand; and a fine stream of fresh water was not above a hundred yardsfrom the stern of the vessel. Our voyagers, being thus advantageouslysituated, began vigorously to prepare for their necessary occupationsby clearing places in the woods, in order to set up the astronomer'sobservatory, and the forge for the iron work, and to erect tents forthe sailmakers and coopers. They applied themselves, also, to thebrewing of beer from the branches or leaves of a tree, which greatlyresembled the American black spruce. Captain Cook was persuaded, fromthe knowledge which he had of this tree, and from the similarity itbore to the spruce, that, with the addition of inspissated juice ofwort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome liquor, and supplythe want of vegetables, of which the country was destitute. Itappeared, by the event, that he was not mistaken in his judgment. Several of the natives were seen on the 28th, who took little noticeof the English, and were very shy of access; and the captain did notchoose to force an intercourse with them, as he had been instructed, by former experience, that the best method of obtaining was to leavetime and place to themselves. While our commander continued in hispresent situation, he took every opportunity of examining the bay. Ashe was prosecuting his survey of it, on the 6th of April, hisattention was directed to the north side, where he discovered a finecapacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-water river. On thewest side are several beautiful cascades; and the shores are so steepthat water might directly be conveyed from them into the ship. Fourteen ducks, besides, other birds, having been shot in this place, he gave it the name of Duck Cove. When he was returning in theevening, he met with three of the natives, one man and two women, whose fears he soon dissipated, and whom he engaged in a conversation, that was little understood on either side. The youngest of the womenhad a volubility of tongue that could not be exceeded; and sheentertained Captain Cook, and the gentlemen who accompanied him with adance. By degrees, our commander obtained the good will and confidence of theIndians. His presents, however, were at first received with muchindifference, hatchets and spike-nails excepted. At a visit, on the12th, from a family of the natives, the captain, perceiving theyapproached the ship with great caution, met them in a boat, which hequitted when he came near them, and went into their canoe. After all, he could not prevail upon them to go on board the Resolution; but atlength they put on shore in a little creek, and seating themselvesabreast the English vessel, entered into familiar conversation withseveral of the officers and seamen; in which they paid a much greaterregard to some, whom they probably mistook for females, than toothers. So well indeed, were they now reconciled to our voyagers, thatthey took up their quarters nearly within the distance of a hundredyards from the ship's watering place. Captain Cook, in his interviewwith them, had caused the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum tobeat. The two former they heard with apparent insensibility; but thelatter excited in them a certain degree of attention. On the 18th, a chief, with whom some connexions had already beenformed, was induced, together with his daughter, to come on board theResolution. Previously to his doing it, he presented the captain witha piece of cloth and a green talk hatchet. He gave also a piece ofcloth to Mr. Forster; and the girl gave another to Mr. Hodges. Thoughthis custom of making presents, before any are received, is commonwith the natives of the South Sea isles, our commander had never tillnow seen it practised in New Zealand. Another thing performed by thechief before he went on board was the taking of a small green branchin his hand, with which he struck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. This manner, as it were, of making peaceis likewise prevalent among all the nations of the South Seas. Whenthe chief was carried into the cabin, he viewed every part of it withsome degree of surprise; but it was not possible to fix his attentionto any one object for a single moment. The works of art appeared tohim in the same light as those of nature, and were equally distantfrom his powers of comprehension. He and his daughter seemed to be themost struck with the number of the decks, and other parts of the ship. As Captain Cook proceeded in examining Dusky Bay, he occasionally metwith some few more of the natives, with regard to whom he used everymode of conciliation. On the 20th the chief and his family, who hadbeen more intimate with our navigators than any of the rest of theIndians, went away, and never returned again. This was the moreextraordinary, as in all his visits he had been gratified withpresents. From different persons, he had gotten nine or ten hatchets, and three or four times that number of large spike nails, besides avariety of other articles. So far as these things might be deemedriches in New Zealand, he was undoubtedly become by far the mostwealthy man in the whole country. One employment of our voyagers, while in Dusky Bay, consisted in sealhunting, an animal which was found serviceable for three purposes. Theskins were made use of for rigging, the fat afforded oil for thelamps, and the flesh was eaten. On the 24th, the captain, having fivegeese remaining of those he had brought with him from the Cape of GoodHope, went and left them at a place to which he gave the name of GooseCove. This place he fixed upon for two reasons; first, because therewere no inhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, because here wasthe greatest supply of proper food; so that he had no doubt of theirbreeding, hoped that in time they might spread over the whole country, to its eminent advantage. Some days afterward, when everythingbelonging to the ship had been removed from the shore, he set fire tothe top-wood in order to dry a piece of ground, which he dug up, andsowed with several sorts of garden seeds. The soil, indeed, was notsuch as to promise much success to the planter; but it was the bestthat could be discovered. The 25th of April was the eighth fair day our people had successivelyenjoyed; and there was reason to believe that such a circumstance wasvery uncommon in the place where they now lay, and at that season ofthe year. This favourable weather afforded them the opportunity ofmore speedily completing their wood and water, and of putting the shipinto a condition for sea. On the evening of the 25th, it began torain; and the weather was afterwards extremely variable, being, attimes, in a high degree wet, cold, and stormy. Nothing, however, prevented Captain Cook from prosecuting, with his usual sagacity anddiligence, his search into every part of Dusky Bay; and, as there arefew places in New Zealand where necessary refreshments may be soplentifully obtained, as in this bay, he hath taken care to give sucha description of it, and of the adjacent country, as may be of serviceto succeeding navigators. Although this country lies far remote fromwhat is now the trading part of the world, yet, as he justly observes, we can by no means tell what use future ages may derive from thediscoveries made in the present. The various anchoring places are delineated on our commander's chart, and the most convenient of them he has particularly described. Notonly about Dusky Bay, but through all the southern part of the westerncoast of Tavai-poenammo, the country is exceedingly mountainous. Aprospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with; for, inland, there are only to be seen the summits of mountains of a tremendousheight, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, excepting where they are covered with snow. But the land which borderson the sea-coast is thickly clothed with wood almost down to thewater's edge; and this is the case with regard to all the adjoiningislands. The trees are of various kinds, and are fit for almost everypossible use. Excepting in the river Thames, Captain Cook had notfound finer timber in all New Zealand; the most considerable speciesof which is the spruce tree; for that name he had given it, from thesimilarity of its foliage to the American spruce, though the wood ismore ponderous, and bears a greater resemblance to the pitch pine. Many of these trees are so large, that they would be able to furnishmainmasts for fifty-gun ships. Amidst the variety of aromatic treesand shrubs which this part of New Zealand produced, there was nonewhich bore fruit fit to be eaten. The country was not found sodestitute of quadrupeds as was formerly imagined. As Dusky Bay presented many advantages to our navigators, so it wasattended with some disagreeable circumstances. There were greatnumbers of small black sandflies, which were troublesome to a degreethat our commander had never experienced before. Another evil arosefrom the continual quantity of rain that occurred in the bay. Thismight, indeed, in part proceed from the season of the year: but it isprobable that the country must at all times be subject to much wetweather, in consequence of the vast height and vicinity of themountains. It was remarkable that the rain, though our people wereperpetually exposed to it, was not productive of any evilconsequences. On the contrary, such of the men as were sick andcomplaining when they entered the bay, recovered daily, and the wholecrew soon became strong and vigorous. So happy a circumstance couldonly be attributed to the healthiness of the place, and the freshprovisions it afforded; among which the beer was a very materialarticle. The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are of the same race with the othernatives of New Zealand, speak the same language, and adhere nearly tothe same customs. Their mode of life appears to be a wandering one;and though they are few in number, no traces were remarked of theirfamilies being connected together In any close bonds of union orfriendship. While the Resolution lay in the bay, Mr. Wales made a variety ofscientific observations relative to latitude and longitude, thevariation of the compass, and the diversity of the tides. When Captain Cook left Dusky Bay, he directed his course for QueenCharlotte's Sound, where he expected to find the Adventure. This wason the 11th of May, and nothing remarkable occurred till the 17th, when the wind at once flattened to a calm, the sky became suddenlyobscured by dark dense clouds, and there was every prognostication ofa tempest. Soon after, six waterspouts were seen, four of which roseand spent themselves between the ship and the land; the fifth was at aconsiderable distance, on the other side of the vessel; and the sixth, the progressive motion of which was not in a straight, but in acrooked line, passed within fifty yards of the stern of theResolution, without producing any evil effect. As the captain had beeninformed that the firing of a gun would dissipate waterspouts, he wassorry that he had not tried the experiment. But, though he was nearenough, and had a gun ready for the purpose, his mind was so deeplyengaged in viewing these extraordinary meteors, that he forgot to givethe necessary directions. On the next day, the Resolution came within sight of Queen Charlotte'sSound, where Captain Cook had the satisfaction of discovering theAdventure; and both ships felt uncommon joy at thus meeting againafter an absence of fourteen weeks. As the events which happened toCaptain Furneaux, during the separation of the two vessels, do notfall within the immediate design of the present narrative, it may besufficient to observe, that he had an opportunity of examining, withsomewhat more accuracy than had hitherto been done, Van Dieman's Land, and his opinion was, that there are no straits between this land andNew Holland, but a very deep bay. He met, likewise, with fartherproofs, that the natives of New Zealand are eaters of human flesh. The morning after Captain Cook's arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, he went himself, at daybreak, to look for scurvy-grass, celery, andother vegetables; and he had the good fortune to return with aboatload, in a very short space of time. Having found, that asufficient quantity of these articles might be obtained for the crewsof both the ships, he gave orders that they should be boiled withwheat and portable broth, every day for breakfast; and with pease andbroth for dinner. Experience had taught him, that the vegetables nowmentioned, when thus dressed, are extremely beneficial to seamen, inremoving the various scorbutic complaints to which they are subject. Our commander had entertained a desire of visiting Van Dieman's Land, in order to inform himself whether it made a part of New Holland. Butas this point had been, in a great measure, cleared up by CaptainFurneaux, he came to a resolution to continue his researches to theeast, between the latitudes of 41° and 46°; and he directedaccordingly, that the ships should be gotten ready for putting to seaas soon as possible. On the 20th, he sent on shore the only ewe andram that remained of those which, with the intention of leaving themin this country, he had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. Soon afterhe visited several gardens, that by order of captain Furneaux had beenmade and planted with various articles; all of which were in such aflourishing state, that, if duly attended to, they promised to be ofgreat utility to the natives. The next day, Captain Cook himself setsome men to work to form a garden on Long Island, which he stockedwith different seeds, and particularly with the roots of turnips, carrots, parsnips, and potatoes. These were the vegetables that wouldbe of the most real use to the Indians, and of these it was easy togive them an idea, by comparing them with such roots as theythemselves knew. On the 22nd, Captain Cook received the unpleasantintelligence, that the ewe and ram, which with so much care andtrouble he had brought to this place, were both of them found dead. Itwas supposed that they had eaten some poisonous plant; and by thisaccident all the captain's hopes of stocking New Zealand with a breedof sheep were instantly blasted. The intercourse which our great navigator had with the inhabitants ofthe country, during this his second visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was of a friendly nature. Two or three families took up their abodenear the ships, and employed themselves daily in fishing, and insupplying the English with the fruits of their labour. No smalladvantage hence accrued to our people, who were by no means suchexpert fishers as the natives, nor were any of our methods of fishingequal to theirs. Thus, in almost every state of society, particulararts of life are carried to perfection; and there is something whichthe most polished nations may learn from the most barbarous. On the 2nd of June, when the Resolution and Adventure were almostready to put to sea, Captain Cook sent on shore, on the east side ofthe sound, two goats, a male and female; and Captain Furneaux left, near Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows. The gentlemen hadlittle doubt but that the country would, in time, be stocked withthese animals, provided they were not destroyed by the Indians beforethey became wild. Afterwards there would be no danger; and as thenatives knew nothing of their being left behind, it was hoped that itmight be some time before they would be discovered. It is remarkable that, during Captain Cook's second visit to CharlotteSound, he was not able to recollect the face of any one person whom hehad seen there three years before. Nor did it once appear, that even asingle Indian had the least knowledge of our commander, or of any ofour people who had been with him in his last voyage. Hence he thoughtit highly probable, that the greatest part of the natives whoinhabited this sound to the beginning of the year 1770, had eithersince been driven out of it, or had removed, of their own accord, tosome other situation. Not one-third of the inhabitants were there now, that had been seen at that time. Their strong hold on the point ofMotuara was deserted, and in every part of the sound many forsakenhabitations were discovered. In the captain's opinion, there was notany reason to believe, that the place had ever been very populous. From comparing the two voyages together, it may be collected that theIndians of Eahei-nomauwe are in somewhat of a more improved state ofsociety than those of Tavai-poenammo. Part of the 4th of June was employed by Captain Cook in visiting achief and a whole tribe of the natives, consisting of between ninetyand a hundred persons, including men, women and children. After thecaptain had distributed some presents among these people, and shewn tothe chief the gardens which had been made, he returned on board, andspent the remainder of the day in the celebration of his royalmaster's nativity. Captain Furneaux and all his officers were invitedupon the occasion; and the seamen were enabled, by a double allowance, to partake of the general joy. As some might think it an extraordinary step in our commander, toproceed in discoveries so far south as forty-six degrees of latitudein the very depth of winter, he has recorded his motives for this partof his conduct. Winter, he acknowledges, is by no means favourable fordiscoveries. Nevertheless, it appeared to him to be necessary thatsomething should be done in that season, in order to lessen the workin which he was engaged; and lest he should not be able to finish thediscovery of the southern part of the south Pacific Ocean in theensuing summer. Besides, if he should discover any land in his routeto the east, he would be ready to begin to explore it, as soon as everthe season should be favourable. Independently of all theseconsiderations, he had little to fear; having two good ships wellprovided, and both the crews being healthy. Where then could he betteremploy his time? If he did nothing more, he was at least in hopes ofbeing enabled to point out to posterity, that these seas may benavigated, and that it is practicable to pursue discoveries even inthe depth of winter. Such was the ardour of our navigator forprosecuting the ends of his voyage, in circumstances which would haveinduced most men to act a more cautious part! During Captain Cook's stay in the sound, he had observed, that thesecond visit to this country had not mended the morals of the nativesof either sex. He had always looked upon the females of New Zealand asmore chaste than the generality of Indian women. Whatever favours afew of them might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, suchintercourse usually took place in a private manner, and did not appearto be encouraged by the men. But now the captain was told, that themale Indians were the chief promoters of this shameful traffic, andthat, for a spikenail, or any other thing they valued, they wouldoblige the women to prostitute themselves, whether it were agreeableor contrary to their inclinations. At the same time no regard was paidto the privacy which decency required. The account of this fact mustbe read with concern by every wellwisher to the good order andhappiness of society, even without adverting to considerations of ahigher nature. On the 7th of June, Captain Cook put to sea from Queen Charlotte'sSound, with the Adventure in company. I shall omit the nautical partof the route from New Zealand to Otaheite, which continued till the15th of August; and shall only select such circumstances as are moreimmediately suitable to the design of the present narrative. It wasfound, on the 29th of July, that the crew of the Adventure were in asickly state. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men wererendered incapable of duty by the scurvy and flux. At this time, nomore than three men were on the sick list on board the Resolution; andonly one of these was attacked with the scurvy. Some others, however, began to discover the symptoms of it; and, accordingly, recourse washad to wort, marmalade of carrots, and the rob of lemons and oranges, with the usual success. Captain Cook could not account for the prevalence of the scurvy beingso much greater in the Adventure than in the Resolution, unless it wasowing to the crew of the former being more scorbutic when they arrivedin New Zealand than the crew of the latter, and to their eating few orno vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. This arosepartly from their want of knowing the right sorts, and partly from thedislike which seamen have to the introduction of a new diet. Theiraversion to any unusual change of food is so great, that it can onlybe overcome by the steady and persevering example and authority of acommander. Many of Captain Cook's people, officers as well as commonsailors, disliked the boiling of celery, scurvy-grass, and othergreens with pease and wheat; and by some the provision, thus prepared, was refused to be eaten. But, as this had no effect on the captain'sconduct, their prejudice gradually subsided: they began to like theirdiet as much as the rest of their companions; and, at length, therewas hardly a man in the ship who did not attribute the freedom of thecrew from the scurvy, to the beer and vegetables which had been madeuse of at New Zealand. Henceforward, whenever the seamen came to aplace where vegetables could be obtained, our commander seldom foundit necessary to order them to be gathered; and, if they were scarce, happy was the person who could lay hold on them first. On the 1st of August, when the ships were in the latitude of 25° 1', and the longitude of 130° 6' west, they were nearly in the samesituation with that which is assigned by Captain Carteret forPitcairn's Island, discovered by him in 1767. For this island, therefore, our voyagers diligently looked; but saw nothing. Accordingto the longitude in which he had placed it, Captain Cook must havepassed it fifteen leagues to the west. But as this was uncertain, hedid not think it prudent to lose any time in searching for it, as thesickly state of the Adventure's people required as speedy an arrivalas possible at a place of refreshment. A sight of it, however, wouldhave been of use in verifying or correcting, not only the longitude ofPitcairn's Island, but of the others discovered by Captain Carteret inthat neighbourhood. It is a diminution of the value of thatgentleman's voyage, that his longitude was not confirmed byastronomical observations, and that hence it was liable to errors, thecorrection of which was out of his power. As Captain Cook had now gotten to the northward of Captain Carteret'stracks, he no longer entertained any hopes of discovering a continent. Islands were all that he could expect to find, until he returned againto the south. In this and his former voyage, he had crossed the oceanin the latitude of 40° and upwards, without meeting any thing whichcould, in the least, induce him to believe that he should attain thegreat object of his pursuit. Every circumstance concurred to convincehim, that, between the meridian of America and New Zealand, there isno southern continent; and that there is no continent farther to thesouth, unless in a very high latitude. This, however; was a point tooimportant to be left to opinions and conjectures. It was to bedetermined by facts; and the ascertainment of it was appointed, by ourcommander, for the employment of the ensuing summer. It was the 6th of August before the ships had the advantage of thetrade wind. This they got at southeast, being at that time in thelatitude of 19° 36' south, and the longitude of 131° 32' west. AsCaptain Cook had obtained the south east trade wind, he directed hiscourse to the west-north-west; not only with a view of keeping in withthe strength of the wind, but also to get to the north of the islandsdiscovered in his former voyage, that he might have a chance ofmeeting with any other islands which might lie in the way. It was inthe track which had been pursued by M. De Bougainville that ourcommander now proceeded. He was sorry that he could not spare time tosail to the north of this track; but at present, on account of thesickly state of the Adventure's crew, the arriving at a place whererefreshments could be procured was an object superior to that ofdiscovery. To four of the islands which were passed by Captain Cook, he gave the names of Resolution Island, Doubtful Island, FurneauxIsland, and Adventure Island. They are supposed to be the same thatwere seen by M. De Bougainville; and these with several others, whichconstitute a cluster of low and half-drowned isles, that gentlemandistinguished by the appellation of the Dangerous Archipelago. Thesmoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced our navigators, that theywere surrounded by them, and that it was highly necessary to proceedwith the utmost caution, especially in the night. Early in the morning, on the 15th of August, the ships came withinsight of Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, which had been discovered byCaptain Wallis. Soon after, Captain Cook acquainted Captain Furneaux, that it was his intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near thesouth-east end of Otaheite, for the purpose of procuring whatrefreshments he could from that part of the island, before he wentdown to Matavai. At six to the evening the island was seen bearingwest; and our people continued to advance towards it till midnight, when they brought to, till four o'clock in the morning; after which, they sailed in for the land with a fine breeze at east. At day-break, they found themselves within the distance of half a league from thereef; and, at the same time, the breeze began to fail them, and was atlast succeeded by a calm. It now became necessary for the boats to behoisted out, in order to tow off the ships; but all the efforts of ourvoyagers, to keep them from being carried near the reef, wereinsufficient for the purpose. As the calm continued, the situation ofthe vessels became still more dangerous. Captain Cook, however, entertained hopes of getting round the western point of the reef andinto the bay. But, about two o'clock in the afternoon, when he camebefore an opening or break of the reef, through which he had flatteredhimself that he might get with the ships, he found, on sending toexamine it, that there was not a sufficient depth of water. Nevertheless, this opening caused such an indraught of the tide offlood through it, as was very near proving fatal to the Resolution;for as soon as the vessels got into the stream, they were carriedtowards the reef with great impetuosity. The moment the captainperceived this, he ordered one of the warping machines, which was heldin readiness, to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms ofrope; but it did not produce the least effect: and our navigators hadnow in prospect the horrors of shipwreck. They were not more than twocables' length from the breakers; and, though it was the only probablemethod which was left of saving the ships, they could find no bottomto anchor. An anchor, however, they did drop; but before it took hold, and brought them up, the Resolution was in less than three fathomwater and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under herstern in a dreadful surf, and threatened her crew every moment withdestruction. Happily the Adventure brought up without striking. Presently, the Resolution's people carried out two kedge-anchors, withhawsers to each; and these found ground a little without the bower. Byheaving upon them, and cutting away the bower anchor, the ship wasgotten afloat, where Captain Cook and his men lay for some time in thegreatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedges wouldcome home, or the hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length, thetide ceased to act in the same direction: upon which the captainordered all the boats to try to tow off the vessel. Having found thisto be practicable, the two kedges were hove up; and at that moment alight air came off from the land, by which the boats were so muchassisted, that the Resolution soon got clear of all danger. Ourcommander then ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure; butbefore they reached her, she was under sail with the land breeze, andin a little time joined her companion, leaving behind her threeanchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were neverrecovered. Thus were our voyagers once more safe at sea, afternarrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island, at which, but afew days before, they had most ardently wished to arrive. It was apeculiarly happy circumstance, that the calm continued, after bringingthe ships into so dangerous a state; for if the sea breeze, as isusually the ease, had set, in, the Resolution must inevitably havebeen lost, and probably the Adventure likewise. During the time inwhich the English were in this critical situation, a number of thenatives were either on board or near the vessel in their canoes. Nevertheless, they seemed to be insensible of our people's danger, shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when the ships werestriking; and they went away a little before sunset, quiteunconcerned. Though most of them knew Captain Cook again, and manyinquired for Mr. Banks and others who had been with the captainbefore, it was remarkable that not one of them asked for Tupia. On the 17th the Resolution and Adventure anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, immediately upon which they were crowded with the inhabitants of thecountry, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other roots, which were exchanged for nails and beads. Tosome, who called themselves chiefs, our commander made presents ofshirts, axes, and several articles besides, in return for which theypromised to bring him hogs and fowls; a promise which they did notperform, and which, as might be judged from their conduct, they hadnever had the least intention of performing. In the afternoon of thesame day, Captain Cook landed in company with Captain Furneaux, forthe purpose of viewing the watering-place, and of sounding thedisposition of the natives. The article of water, which was now muchwanted on board, he found might conveniently he obtained, and theinhabitants behaved with great civility. Notwithstanding thiscivility, nothing was brought to market, the next day, but fruit androots, though it was said that many hogs were seen about the houses inthe neighbourhood. The cry was, that they belonged to Waheatoua, theearee de hi, or king; who had not yet appeared, nor indeed, any otherchief of note. Among the Indians that came on board the Resolution, and no small number of whom did not scruple to call themselves earees, there was one of this sort, who had been entertained in the cabin mostof the day, and to all of whose friends Captain Cook had madepresents, as well as liberally to himself. At length, however, he wascaught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them outof the quarter gallery. Various complaints of the like nature being, at the same time, made against the natives who were on deck, ourcommander turned them all out of the ship. His cabin guest was veryrapid in his retreat; and the captain was so exasperated at hisbehaviour, that after the earee had gotten to some distance from theResolution, he fired two muskets over his head, by which he was soterrified that he quitted his canoe and took to the water. CaptainCook then sent a boat to take the canoe; but when the boat approachedthe shore, the people on land began to pelt her with stones. Thecaptain, therefore, being in some pain for her safety, as she wasunarmed, went himself in another boat to protect her, and ordered agreat gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast, which madeall the Indians retire from the shore, and he was suffered to bringaway two canoes without the least show of opposition. In a few hourspeace was restored, and the canoes were returned to the first personwho came for them. It was not till the evening of this day, that any one inquired afterTupia, and then the inquiry was made by only two or three of thenatives. When they learned the cause of his death, they were perfectlysatisfied; nor did it appear to our commander that they would havefelt a moment's uneasiness, if Tupia's decease had proceeded from anyother cause than sickness. They were as little concerned aboutAotourou, the man who had gone away with M. De Bougainville. But theywere continually asking for Mr. Banks, and for several others who hadaccompanied Captain Cook in his former voyage. Since that voyage, very considerable changes had happened in thecountry. Toutaha, the regent of the great peninsula of Otaheite, hadbeen killed, in a battle which was fought between the two kingdomsabout five months before the Resolution's arrival; and Otto was nowthe reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of theprincipal friends to the English, had fallen in this battle, togetherwith a large number of the common people. A peace subsisted, atpresent, between the two grand divisions of the island. On the 20th, one of the natives carried off a musket belonging to theguard onshore. Captain Cook, who was himself a witness of thetransaction, sent out some of his people after him; but this wouldhave been to very little purpose, if the thief had not beenintercepted by several of his own countrymen, who pursued himvoluntarily, knocked him down, and returned the musket to the English. This act of justice prevented our commander from being placed in adisagreeable situation. If the natives had not given their immediateassistance, it would scarcely have been in his power to have recoveredthe musket, by any gentle means whatever; and if he had been obligedto have recourse to other methods, he was sure of loosing more thanten times its value. The fraud of one, who appeared as a chief, is, perhaps, not unworthyof notice. This man, in a visit to Captain Cook, presented him with aquantity of fruit; among which were a number of cocoa-nuts, that hadalready been exhausted of their liquor by our people, and afterwardsthrown overboard. These the chief had picked up, and tied so artfullyin bundles, that at first the deception was not perceived. When he wasinformed of it, without betraying the least emotion, and affecting atotal ignorance of the matter, he opened two or three of the nutshimself, signified that he was satisfied of the fact, and then went onshore and sent off a quantity of plantains and bananas. The ingenuityand the impudence of fraud are not solely the production of polishedsociety. Captain Cook, on the 23rd, had an interview with Waheatoua, the resultof which was that our navigators obtained this day as much pork asfurnished a meal to the crews of both the vessels. In the captain'slast voyage, Waheatoua, who was then little more than a boy, wascalled Tearee; but having succeeded to his father's authority, he hadassumed his father's name. The fruits that were procured at Oaiti-piha Bay contributed greatly tothe recovery of the sick people belonging to the Adventure. Many ofthem, who had been so ill as to be incapable of moving withoutassistance, were, in the compass of a few days, so far recovered thatthey were able to walk about of themselves. When the Resolutionentered the bay, she had but one scorbutic man on board. A marine, whohad long been sick; and who died the second day after her arrival, ofa complication of disorders, had not the least mixture of the scurvy. On the 24th, the ships put to sea, and arrived the next evening inMatavia Bay. Before they could come to an anchor, the decks werecrowded with the natives, many of whom Captain Cook knew, and by mostof whom he was well remembered. Among a large multitude of people, whowere collected together upon the shore, was Otoo, the king of theisland. Our commander paid him a visit on the following day, atOparree, the place of his residence; and found him to be a fine, personable, well-made man, six feet high, and about thirty years ofage. The qualities of his mind were not correspondent to his externalappearance: for when Captain Cook endeavoured to obtain from him thepromise of a visit on board, he acknowledged that he was afraid of theguns, and, indeed, manifested in all his actions that he was a princeof a timorous disposition. Upon the captain's return from Oparree, he found the tents, and theastronomer's observatories, set up, on the same spot from which thetransit of Venus had been observed in 1769. The sick, being twenty innumber from the Adventure, and one from the Resolution, all of whomwere ill of the scurvy, he ordered to be landed; and he appointed aguard of marines on shore, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. On the 27th, Otoo was prevailed upon, with some degree of reluctance, to pay our commander a visit. He came attended with a numerous train, and brought with him fruits, a hog, two large fish, and a quantity ofcloth: for which he and all his retinue were gratified with suitablepresents. When Captain Cook conveyed his guests to land, he was met bya venerable lady, the mother of the late Toutaha, who seized him byboth hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha tiyono toutee matty Toutaha_; that is, 'Toutaha, your friend, or thefriend of Cook, is dead. ' He was so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for him to have refrained frommingling his tears with hers, had not Otoo, who was displeased withthe interview, taken him from her. It was with difficulty that thecaptain could obtain permission to see her again, when he gave her anaxe and some other articles. Captain Furneaux, at this time presentedthe king with two fine goats, which, if no accident befell them, mightbe expected to multiply. Several days had passed in a friendly intercourse with the natives, and in the procuring provisions, when, in the evening of the 30th, thegentlemen on board the Resolution were alarmed with the cry of murder, and with a great noise on shore, near the bottom of the bay, and at adistance from the English encampment. Upon this, Captain Cook, whosuspected that some of his own men were concerned in the affair, immediately dispatched an armed boat, to know the cause of thedisturbance, and to bring off such of his people as should be found inthe place. He sent also, to the Adventure, and to the post on shore, to learn who were missing: for none but those who were upon duty wereabsent from the Resolution. The boats speedily returned with threemarines and a seaman. Some others, likewise, were taken, belonging tothe Adventure; and all of them being put under confinement, ourcommander, the next morning, ordered them to be punished according totheir deserts. He did not find that any mischief had been done, andthe men would confess nothing. Some liberties which they had takenwith the women had probably given occasion to the disturbance. Towhatever cause it was owing, the natives were so much alarmed, thatthey fled from their habitations in the dead of night, and the alarmwas spread many miles along the coast. In the morning, when CaptainCook went to visit Otoo, by appointment, he found he had removed, orrather fled, to a great distance from the usual place of his abode. After arriving where he was, it was some hours before the captaincould be admitted to the sight of him; and then he complained of theriot of the preceding evening. The sick being nearly recovered, the water completed, and thenecessary repairs of the ships finished, Captain Cook determined toput to sea without delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, heordered every thing to be removed from the shore, and the vessels tobe unmoored, in which employment his people were engaged the greaterpart of the day. In the afternoon of the same day, LieutenantPickersgill returned from Attahourou, to which place he had been sentby the captain, for the purpose of procuring some hogs that had beenpromised. In this expedition, the lieutenant had seen the celebratedOberea, who has been so much the object of poetical fancy. Hersituation was very humble compared with what it had formerly been. Shewas not only altered much for the worse in her person, but appeared tobe poor, and of little or no consequence or authority in the island. In the evening, a favourable wind having sprung up, our commander putto sea; on which occasion he was obliged to dismiss his Otaheitefriends sooner than they wished to depart; but well satisfied with hiskind and liberal treatment. From Matavai Bay, Captain Cook directed his course for the island ofHuaheine, where he intended to touch. This island he reached the nextday, and, early in the morning of the 3rd of September, made sail forthe harbour of Owharre, in which he soon came to an anchor. TheAdventure, not happening to turn into the harbour with equal facility, got ashore on the north side of the channel; but, by the timelyassistance which Captain Cook had previously provided, in case such anaccident should occur, she was gotten off again, without receiving anydamage. As soon as both the ships were in safety, our commander;together with Captain Furneaux, landed upon the island, and wasreceived by the natives with the utmost cordiality. A tradeimmediately commenced; so that our navigators had a fair prospect ofbeing plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls, which, to peoplein their situation, was a very desirable circumstance. On, the 4th, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party, toward the south end of the isle. Another trading party was also senton shore near the ships, which party Captain Cook attended himself, tosee that the business was properly conducted at the first setting out, this being a point of no small importance. Every thing being settledto his mind, he went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and Mr. Forster, to pay a visit to his old friend Oree, the chief of theisland. This visit was preceded by many preparatory ceremonies. Amongother things the chief sent to our commander the inscription engravedon a small piece of pewter, which he had left with him in July, 1761. It was in the bag that Captain Cook had made for it, together with apiece of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, which had been putin at the same time; whence it was evident what particular care hadbeen taken of the whole. After the previous ceremonies had beendischarged, the captain wanted to go to the king, but he was informedthat the king would come to him. Accordingly, Oree went up to ourcommander, and fell on his neck, and embraced him; nor was it aceremonious embrace, for the tears which trickled down the venerableold man's cheeks sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart. Thepresents, which Captain Cook made to the chief on this occasion, consisted of the most valuable articles he had; for he regarded him asa father. Oree, in return, gave the captain a hog, and a quantity ofcloth, promising that all the wants of the English should be supplied;and it was a promise to which he faithfully adhered. Indeed, hecarried his kindness to Captain Cook so far, as not to fail sendinghim every day, for his table, a plentiful supply of the very best ofready-dressed fruits and roots. Hitherto, all things had gone on in the most agreeable manner; but onMonday, the 6th, several circumstances occurred, which rendered it anunpleasant and troublesome day. When our commander went to thetrading-place, he was informed that one of the inhabitants had behavedwith remarkable insolence. The man was completely equipped in the warhabit, had a club in each hand, and seemed bent upon mischief. CaptainCook took, therefore, the clubs from him, broke them before his eyes, and with some difficulty compelled him to retire. About the same time, Mr. Sparrman, who had imprudently gone out alone to botanize, wasassaulted by two men, who stripped him of every thing which he hadabout him, excepting his trowsers, and struck him again and again withhis own hanger, though happily without doing him any harm. When theyhad accomplished their purpose, they made off; after which another ofthe natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted himto the trading place, where the inhabitants, in a large number, wereassembled. The instant that Mr. Sparrman appeared in the condition nowdescribed, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. Captain Cook, having recalled a few of the Indians, and convinced them that heshould take no step to injure those who were innocent, went to Oree tocomplain of the outrage. When the chief had heard the whole affairrelated, he wept aloud, and many other of the inhabitants did thesame. After the first transports of his grief had subsided, he beganto expostulate with his people, telling them (for so his language wasunderstood by the English) how well Captain Cook had treated them bothin this and his former voyage, and how base it was in them to commitsuch actions. He then took a minute account of the things of which Mr. Sparrman had been robbed, and, after having promised to use his utmostendeavours for the recovery of them, desired to go into the captain'sboat. At this, the natives, apprehensive doubtless for the safety oftheir prince, expressed the utmost alarm, and used every argument todissuade him from so rash a measure. All their remonstrances, however, were in vain. He hastened into the boat; and as soon as they saw thattheir beloved chief was wholly in our commander's power, they set up agreat outcry. Indeed, their grief was inexpressible; they prayed, entreated nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat; and every facewas bedewed with tears. Even Captain Cook himself was so moved bytheir distress, that he united his entreaties with theirs, but all tono purpose. Oree insisted upon the captain's coming into the boat, which was no sooner done, than he ordered it to be put off. His sisterwas the only person among the Indians who behaved with a becomingmagnanimity on this occasion; for, with a spirit equal to that of herroyal brother, she alone did not oppose his going. It was his design, in coming into the boat of the English, to proceed with them in searchof the robbers. Accordingly, he went with Captain Cook, as far as itwas convenient, by water, when they landed, entered the country, andtravelled same miles inland; in doing which the chief led the way, andinquired after the criminals of every person whom he saw. In thissearch he would have gone to the very extremity of the island, if ourcommander, who did not think the object worthy of so laborious apursuit, had not refused to proceed any farther. Besides, as heintended to sail the next morning, and all manner of trade was stoppedin consequence of the alarm of the natives, it became the morenecessary for him to return, that he might restore things to theirformer state. It was with great reluctance that Ores was prevailedupon to discontinue the search, and to content himself with sending, at Captain Cook's request, some of his people for the things which hadbeen carried off. When he and the captain had gotten back to the boat, they found there the chief's sister, and several other persons, whohad travelled by land to the place. The English gentlemen immediatelystepped into their boat, in order to return on board, without so muchas asking Oree to accompany them; notwithstanding which, he insistedupon doing it; nor could the opposition and entreaties of those whowere about him induce him to desist from his purpose. His sisterfollowed his example, uninfluenced, on this occasion, by thesupplications and tears of her daughter. Captain Cook amply rewardedthe chief and his sister for the confidence they had placed in him;and, after dinner, conveyed them both on shore, where some hundreds ofpeople waited to receive them, many of whom embraced Oree with tearsof joy. All was now peace and gladness: the inhabitants crowded infrom every part, with such a plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, andvegetable productions, that the English presently filled two boats;and the chief himself presented the captain with a large hog, and aquantity of fruit. Mr. Sparrman's hanger the only thing of value whichhe had lost, was brought back, together with part of his coat; and ournavigators were told, that the remaining articles should be restoredthe next day. Some things which had been stolen from a party ofofficers, who had gone out a shooting, were returned in like manner. The transactions of this day have been the more particularly related, as they shew the high opinion which the chief had formed of ourcommander, and the unreserved confidence that he placed in hisintegrity and honour. Oree had entered into a solemn friendship withCaptain Cook, according to all the forms which were customary in thecountry; and he seemed to think, that this friendship could not bebroken by the act of any other persons. It is justly observed by thecaptain, that another chief may never be found, who, under similarcircumstances, will act in the same manner. Oree, indeed, had nothingto fear: for it was not our commander's intention to hurt a hair ofhis head, or to detain him a moment longer than was agreeable to hisown desire. But of this how could he and his people be assured? Theywere not ignorant, that when he was once in Captain Cook's power, thewhole force of the island would not be sufficient to recover him, andthat they must have complied with any demands, however great, for hisransom. The apprehensions, therefore, of the inhabitants, for theirchief's and their own safety, had a reasonable foundation. Early on the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, the captain went topay his farewell visit to Oree, and took with him such presents as hadnot only a fancied value, but a real utility. He left, also, with thechief the inscription plate, that had been before in his possession, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved these words:'Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ships, Resolution andAdventure, September, 1773. ' These plates, together with some medals, were put up in a bag; of which Oree promised to take care, and toproduce them to the first ship or ships that should arrive at theisland. Having, in return, given a hog to Captain Cook, and loaded hisboat with fruit, they took leave of each other, when the good oldchief embraced our commander with tears in his eyes. Nothing wasmentioned, at this interview, concerning the remainder of Mr. Sparrman's property. As it was early in the morning, the captainjudged that it had not been brought in, and he was not willing tospeak of it to Oree, lest he should give him pain about things whichthere had not been time to recover. The robbers having soon afterwardbeen taken, Oree came on board again, to request that our commanderwould go on shore, either to punish them, or to be present at theirpunishment; but this not being convenient to him, he left them to thecorrection of their own chief. It was from the island of Huaheine thatCaptain Furneaux received into his ship a young man named Omai, anative of Ulietea, of whom so much hath since been known and written. This choice Captain Cook at first disapproved; as thinking that theyouth was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of the SocietyIslands; being inferior to many of them in birth and acquired rank, and not having any peculiar advantage in point of shape, figure, orcomplexion. The captain afterward found reason to be better satisfiedwith Omai's having accompanied our navigators, to England. During the short stay of the vessels at Huaheine, our people were verysuccessful in obtaining supplies of provisions. No less than threehundred hogs, besides fowls and fruit, were procured; and had theships continued longer at the place, the quantity might have beengreatly increased. Such was the fertility of this small island, thatnone of these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, butappeared to be as plentiful as ever. From Huaheine our navigators sailed for Ulietea; where, trade wascarried on in the usual manner, and a most friendly intercourserenewed between Captain Cook and Oree, the chief of the island. HereTupia was inquired after with particular eagerness, and the inquirerswere perfectly satisfied with the account which was given of theoccasion of that Indian's decease. On the morning of the 15th, the English were surprised at finding thatnone of the inhabitants of Ulietea came off to the ships, as hadhitherto been customary. As two men belonging to the Adventure hadstayed on shore all night, contrary to orders, Captain Cook's firstconjectures were, that the natives had stripped them, and were afraidof the revenge which would be taken of the insult. This, however, wasnot the case. The men had been treated with great civility, and couldassign no cause for the precipitate flight of the Indians. All thatthe captain could learn was, that several were killed and otherswounded, by the guns of the English This information alarmed him forthe safety of some of our people, who had been sent out in two boatsto the island of Otaha. He determined, therefore, it possible, to seethe chief himself. When he came up to him, Oree threw his arms aroundour commander's neck, and burst into tears; in which he wasaccompanied by all the women, and some of the men; so that thelamentations became general. Astonishment alone kept Captain Cook fromjoining in their grief. At last, the whole which he could collect fromhis inquiries was, that the natives had been alarmed on account of theabsence of the English boats, and imagined that the captain, upon thesupposition of the desertion of his men, would use violent means forthe recovery of his loss. When the matter was explained, it wasacknowledged that not a single inhabitant, or a single Englishman, hadbeen hurt. This groundless consternation displayed in a strong lightthe timorous disposition of the people of the Society islands. Our navigators were as successful in procuring provisions at Ulieteaas they had been at Huaheine. Captain Cook judged that the number ofhogs obtained amounted to four hundred or upwards: many of them, indeed, were only roasters, while others exceeded a hundred pounds inweight; but the general run was from forty to sixty. A larger quantitywas offered than the ships could contain; so that our countrymen wereenabled to proceed on their voyage with no small degree of comfort andadvantage. Our commander, by his second visit to the Society islands, gained afarther knowledge of their general state, and of the customs of theinhabitants. It appeared, that a Spanish ship had been lately atOtaheite, and the natives complained, that a disease had beencommunicated to them by the people of this vessel which according totheir account affected the head, the throat, and the stomach, and atlength ended in death. With regard to a certain disorder, the effectsof which have so fatally been felt in the latter ages of the world, Captain Cook's inquiries could not absolutely determine whether it wasknown to the islanders before they were visited by the Europeans. Ifit was of recent origin, the introduction of it was, without adissentient voice, ascribed to the voyage of M. De Bougainville. One thing which our commander was solicitous to ascertain, was, whether human sacrifices constituted a part of the religious customsof these people, The man of whom he had made his inquiries, andseveral other natives took some pains to explain the matter; but, fromour people's ignorance of the language of the country, theirexplication could not be understood. Captain Cook afterwards learnedfrom Omai that the inhabitants of the Society islands offer humansacrifices to the Supreme Being. What relates to funeral ceremoniesexcepted, all the knowledge he could obtain concerning their religionwas very imperfect and defective. The captain had an opportunity, in this voyage of rectifying the greatinjustice which had been done to the women of Otaheite and theneighbouring isles. They had been represented as ready, withoutexception to grant the last favour to any man who would come up totheir price: but our commander found that this was by no means thecase. The favours both of the married women and of the unmarried, ofthe better sort, were as difficult to be obtained in the Societyislands as in any other country whatever. Even with respect to theunmarried females of the lower class, the charge was notindiscriminately true. There were many of these who would not admit ofindecent familiarities. The setting this subject in a proper lightmust be considered as one of the agreeable effects of Captain Cook'ssecond voyage. Every enlightened mind will rejoice at what conduces tothe honour of human nature in general, and of the female sex inparticular. Chastity is so eminently the glory of that sex, and, indeed, is so essentially connected with the good order of society, that it must be a satisfaction to reflect, that there is no country, however ignorant or barbarous, in which this virtue is not regarded asan object of moral obligation. This voyage enabled our commander to gain some farther knowledgeconcerning the geography of the Society isles; and he found it highlyprobable, that Otaheite is of greater extent than he had computed itin his former estimation. The astronomers did not neglect to set uptheir observatories, and to make observations suited to their purpose. On the 17th of September, Captain Cook sailed from Ulietea, directinghis course to the west, with an inclination to the south. Land wasdiscovered on the 23rd of the month, to which he gave the name ofHarvey's Island. On the 1st of October, he reached the island ofMiddleburg. While he was looking about for a landing place, twocanoes, each of them conducted by two or three men, came boldlyalongside the ship, and some of the people entered it withouthesitation. This mark of confidence inspired our commander with sogood an opinion of the inhabitants, that he determined, if possible, to pay them a visit, which he did the next day. Scarcely had thevessels gotten to an anchor, before they were surrounded by a greatnumber of canoes, full of the natives, who brought with them cloth, and various curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, and suchother articles as were adapted to their fancy. Among those who came onboard, was a chief, named Tioony, whose friendship Captain Cookimmediately gained by proper presents, consisting principally of ahatchet and some spike-nails. A party of our navigators, with thecaptain at the head of them having embarked in two boats, proceeded tothe shore, where they found an immense crowd of people, who welcomedthem to the island with loud acclamations. There was not so much as astick, or any other weapon, in the hands of a single native, sopacific were their dispositions and intentions. They seemed to be moredesirous of giving than receiving; and many of them, who could notapproach near to the boats, threw into them, over the heads of others, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking orwaiting for anything in return. The whole day was spent by ournavigators in the most agreeable manner. When they returned on boardin the evening, every one expressed how much he was delighted with thecountry, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, whoseemed to vie with each other in their endeavours to give pleasure toour people. All this conduct appeared to be the result of the mostpure good nature, perhaps without being accompanied with muchsentiment or feeling; for when Captain Cook signified to the chief hisintention of quitting the island, he did not seem to be in the leastmoved. Among other articles presented by the captain to Tioony, heleft him an assortment of garden seeds, which, if properly used, mightbe of great future benefit to the country. From Middleburg, the ships sailed down to Amsterdam, the natives ofwhich island were equally ready with those of the former place tomaintain a friendly intercourse with the English. Like the people ofMiddleburg, they brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, andsuch other articles as could be of little service; and for these ourseamen were so simple as to barter away their clothes. To put a stop, therefore to so injurious a traffic, and to obtain the necessaryrefreshments, the captain gave orders, that no sort of curiositiesshould be purchased by any person whatever. This injunction producedthe desired effect. When the inhabitants saw that the English woulddeal with them for nothing but eatables, they brought off bananas andcocoa-nuts in abundance, together with some fowls and pigs; all ofwhich they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth. Even a fewold rags were sufficient for the purchase of a pig or a fowl. The method of carrying on trade being settled, and proper officershaving been appointed to prevent disputes, our commander's next objectwas to obtain as complete a knowledge as possible of the island ofAmsterdam. In this he was much facilitated by a friendship which hehad formed with Attago, one of the chiefs of the country. Captain Cookwas struck with admiration, when he surveyed the beauty andcultivation of the island. He thought himself transported into themost fertile plains of Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground. The roads occupied no larger a space than was absolutely necessary, and the fences did not take up above four inches each. Even such asmall portion of ground was not wholly lost; for many of the fencesthemselves contained useful trees or plants. The scene was every wherethe same; and nature, assisted by a little art, no where assumes amore splendid appearance than in this island. Friendly as were the natives of Amsterdam, they were not entirely freefrom the thievish disposition which had so often been remarked in theislanders of the Southern Ocean. The instances, however, of this kind, which occurred, were not of such a nature as to produce anyextraordinary degree of trouble, or to involve our people in a quarrelwith the inhabitants. Captain Cook's introduction to the king of the island afforded a scenesomewhat remarkable. His majesty was seated with so much sullen andstupid gravity, that the captain took him for an idiot, whom theIndians, from some superstitious reasons, were ready to worship. Whenour commander saluted and spoke to him, he neither answered, nor tookthe least notice of him; nor did he alter a single feature of hiscountenance. Even the presents which were made to him could not inducehim to resign a bit of his gravity, or to speak one word, or to turnhis head either to the right hand or to the left. As he was in theprime of life, it was possible that a false sense of dignity mightengage him to assume so solemn a stupidity of appearance. In thehistory of mankind, instances might probably be found which wouldconfirm this supposition. It is observable, that the two islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam areguarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks, which extend out fromthe shore about one hundred fathoms. On this reef the force of the seais spent before it reaches the land. The same, indeed, is, to a greatmeasure, the situation of all the tropical isles which our commanderhad seen in that part of the globe; and hence arises an evidence ofthe wisdom and goodness of Providence; as by such a provision, naturehas effectually secured them from the encroachments of the sea, thoughmany of them are mere points, when compared with the vast ocean bywhich they are surrounded. In Amsterdam, Mr. Forster not only found the same plants that are atOtaheite and the neighbouring islands, but several others, which arenot to be met with in those places. Captain Cook took care, by aproper assortment of garden-seeds and pulse, to increase the vegetablestock of the inhabitants. Hogs and fowls were the only domestic animals that were seen in theseislands. The former are of the same sort with those which have beenmet with in other parts of the Southern Ocean; but the latter are farsuperior, being as large as any in Europe, and equal, if notpreferable, with respect to the goodness of their flesh. Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans. Their colouris that of a lightish copper, and with a greater uniformity thanoccurs among the natives of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some ofthe English gentlemen were of opinion, that the inhabitants ofMiddleburg and Amsterdam were a much handsomer race; while others withwhom Captain Cook concurred, maintained a contrary sentiment. Howeverthis may be, their shape is good, their features regular, and they areactive, brisk, and lively. The women, in particular, are the merriestcreatures our commander had ever met with: and, provided any personseemed pleased with them, they would keep chattering by his sidewithout the least invitation, or considering whether they wereunderstood. They appeared in general to be modest, though there wereseveral amongst them of a different character. As there were yet onboard some complaints of a certain disorder, the captain took allpossible care to prevent its communication. Our navigators werefrequently entertained by the women with songs, and this in a mannerwhich was by no means disagreeable. They had a method of keeping timeby snapping their fingers. Their music was harmonious as well as theirvoices, and there was a considerable degree of compass in their notes. A singular custom was found to prevail in these islands. The greaterpart of the people were observed to have lost one or both of theirlittle fingers; and this was not peculiar to rank, age, or sex; norwas the amputation restricted to any specific period of life. Ournavigators endeavoured in vain to discover the reason of soextraordinary a practice. A very extensive knowledge of the language of Middleburg and Amsterdamcould not be obtained during the short stay which was made there bythe English. However, the more they inquired into it, the more theyfound that it was, in general, the same with that which is spoken atOtaheite and the Society isles. The difference is not greater thanwhat frequently occurs betwixt the most northern and western parts ofEngland. On the 7th of October, Captain Cook proceeded on his voyage. Hisintention was to sail directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound, in NewZealand, for the purpose of taking in wood and water, after which hewas to pursue his discoveries to the south and the east. The day afterhe quitted Amsterdam, he passed the island of Pilstart; an islandwhich had been discovered by Tasman. On the 21st, he made the land of New Zealand, at the distance of eightor ten leagues from Table Cape. As our commander was very desirous ofleaving in the country such an assortment of animals and vegetables asmight greatly contribute to the future benefit of the inhabitants, oneof the first things which he did was to give to a chief, who had comeoff in a canoe, two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks, together with a quantity of seeds, The seeds were of the most usefulkind; such as wheat, french and kidney beans, pease, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams. The man to whom these severalarticles were presented, though he was much more enraptured with aspike-nail half the length of his arm, promised, however, to take careof them, and in particular, not to kill any of the animals. If headhered to his promise, they would be sufficient, in a due course oftime, to stock the whole island. It was the 3rd of November before Captain Cook brought the Resolutioninto Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. He had been beating aboutthe island from the 21st of October, during which time his vessel wasexposed to a variety of tempestuous weather. In one instance he hadbeen driven off the land by a furious storm, which lasted two days, and which would have been dangerous in the highest degree, had it notfortunately happened that it was fair overhead, and that there was noreason to be apprehensive of a lee-shore. In the course of the badweather which succeeded this storm, the Adventure was separated fromthe Resolution, and was never seen or heard of through the wholeremainder of the voyage. The first object of our commander's attention, after his arrival inQueen Charlotte's Sound, was to provide for the repair of his ship, which had suffered in various respects, and especially in her sailsand rigging. Another matter which called for his notice was the stateof the bread belonging to the vessel, and he had the mortification offinding, that a large quantity of it was damaged. To repair this lossin the best manner he was able, he ordered all the casks to be opened, the bread to be picked, and such parcels of it to be baked, in thecopper oven, as could by that means be recovered. Notwithstanding thiscare, four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds were foundtotally unfit for use; and about three thousand pounds more could onlybe eaten by people in the situation of our navigators. Captain Cook was early in his inquiries concerning the animals whichhad been left at New Zealand, in the former part of his voyage. He sawthe youngest of the two sows that Captain Furneaux had put on shore inCannibal Cove. She was in good condition, and very tame. The boar andother sow, if our commander was rightly informed, were taken away andseparated, but not killed. He was told that the two goats, which hehad landed up the Sound, had been destroyed by a rascally native ofthe name of Goubiah; so that the captain had the grief of discoveringthat all his benevolent endeavours to stock the country with usefulanimals were likely to be frustrated by the very people whom he wasanxious to serve. The gardens had met with a better fate. Every thingin them, excepting potatoes, the inhabitants had left entirely tonature, who had so well performed her part, that most of the articleswere in a flourishing condition. Notwithstanding the inattention and folly of the New Zealanders, Captain Cook still continued his zeal for their benefit. To theinhabitants who resided at the Cove, he gave a boar, a young sow, twococks, and two hens, which had been brought from the Society islands. At the bottom of the West Bay, he ordered to be landed without theknowledge of the Indians, four hogs, being three sows and one boar, together with cocks and two hens. They were carried a little way intothe woods, and as much food was left them as would serve them for tenor twelve days; which was done to prevent their coming down to theshore in search of sustenance, and by that means being discovered bythe natives. The captain was desirous of replacing the two goats whichGoubiah was understood to have killed, by leaving behind him the onlytwo that yet remained in his possession. But he had the misfortune, soon after his arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound to lose the ram; andthis in a manner for which it was not easy to assign the cause. Whether it was owing to any thing he had eaten, or to his being stungwith nettles, which were very plentiful in the place, he was seizedwith fits that bordered upon madness. In one of these fits, he wassupposed to have run into the sea, and to have been drowned: and thusevery method, which our commander had taken to stock the country withsheep and goats, proved ineffectual. He hoped to be more successfulwith respect to the boars and sows and the cocks and hens, which heleft in the island. While the boatswain, one day, and a party of men, were employed incutting broom, some of them stole several things from a private hut ofthe natives, in which was deposited most of the treasures they hadreceived from the English as well as property of their own. Complaintbeing made by the Indians to Captain Cook, and a particular man of theboatswain's party having been pointed out to the captain, as theperson who had committed the theft, he ordered him to be punished intheir presence. With this they went away seemingly satisfied, althoughthey did not recover any of the articles which they had lost. It wasalways a maxim with our commander, to punish the least crimes whichany of his people were guilty of with regard to uncivilized nations. Their robbing us with impunity he by no means considered as a reasonfor our treating them in the same manner. Addicted as the NewZealanders were, in a certain degree, to stealing, a disposition whichmust have been very much increased by the novelty and allurement ofthe objects presented to their view; they had, nevertheless, wheninjured themselves, such a sense of justice as to apply to CaptainCook for redress. The best method, in his opinion, of preserving agood understanding with the inhabitants of countries in this state ofsociety, is, first, to convince them of the superiority we have overthem in consequence of our fire arms, and then to be always upon ourguard. Such a conduct, united with strict honesty and gentletreatment, will convince them, that it is their interest not todisturb us, and prevent them from forming any general plan of attack. In this second visit of our navigators to New Zealand, they met withindubitable evidence that the natives were eaters of human flesh. Theproofs of this fact had a most powerful influence on the mind ofOedidee, a youth of Bolabola, whom Captain Cook had brought in theResolution from Ulietea. He was so affected, that he became perfectlymotionless, and exhibited such a picture of horror, that it would havebeen impossible for art to describe that passion with half the forcewith which it appeared in his countenance. When he was roused fromthis state by some of the English, he burst into tears; continued toweep and scold by turns; told the New Zealanders that they were vilemen; and assured them, that he would not be any longer their friend. He would not so much as permit them to come near him; and he refusedto accept or even to touch, the knife by which some human flesh hadbeen cut off. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the abominablecustom; and our commander has justly remarked, that it was anindignation worthy to be imitated by every rational being. The conductof this young man, upon the present occasion, strongly points out thedifference which had taken place, in the progress of civilization, between the inhabitants of the Society islands and those of NewZealand. It was our commander's firm opinion, that the only humanflesh which was eaten by these people was that of their enemies, whohad been slain in battle. During the stay of our voyagers in Queen Charlotte's Sound, they wereplentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a veryeasy rate; and, besides the vegetables afforded by their own gardens, they every where found plenty of scurvy-grass and celery. TheseCaptain Cook ordered to be dressed every day for all his hands. By theattention which he paid to his men in the article of provisions, theyhad for three months lived principally on a fresh diet, and, at thistime, there was not a sick or corbutic person on board. The morning before the captain sailed, he wrote a memorandum, containing such information as he thought necessary for CaptainFurneaux, in case he should put into the sound. This memorandum wasburied in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden; and in sucha manner, that it could not avoid being discovered, if either CaptainFurneaux, or any other European, should chance to arrive at the cove. Our commander did not leave New Zealand without making such remarks onthe coast between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser as may be ofservice to future navigators. It being now the unanimous opinion thatthe Adventure was no where upon the island, Captain Cook gave up allexpectations of seeing her any more during the voyage. Thiscircumstance, however, did not discourage him from fully exploring thesouthern parts of the Pacific ocean, in the doing of which he intendedto employ the whole of the ensuing season. When he quitted the coast, he had the satisfaction to find that not a man of the crew wasdejected, or thought that the dangers, they had yet to go through, were to the least augmented by their being alone. Such was theconfidence they placed in their commander, that they were as ready toproceed cheerfully to the south, or wherever he might lead them, as ifthe Adventure, or even a larger number of ships had been in company. On the 26th of November, Captain Cook sailed from New Zealand insearch of a continent, and steered to the south, inclining to theeast. Some days after this, our navigators reckoned themselves to beantipodes to their friends in London, and consequently were at asgreat a distance from them as possible. The first ice island was seenon the 12th of December, farther south than the first ice which hadbeen met with after leaving the Cape of Good Hope in the precedingyear. In the progress of the voyage, ice islands continually occurred, and the navigation became more and more difficult and dangerous. Whenour people were in the latitude of 67° 5' south, they all at once gotwithin such a cluster of these islands, together with a large quantityof loose pieces, that to keep clear of them was a matter of the utmostdifficulty. On the 22nd of the month, the Resolution was in thehighest latitude she had yet reached; and circumstances now became sounfavourable, that our commander thought of returning more to thenorth. Here there was no probability of finding any land, or apossibility of getting farther south. To have proceeded, therefore, tothe east in this latitude, must have been improper, not only onaccount of the ice, but because a vast space of sea to the north musthave been left unexplored, in which there might lie a large tract ofcountry. It was only by visiting those parts, that it could bedetermined whether such a supposition was well founded. As ournavigators advanced to the north-east on the 24th, the ice islandsincreased so fast upon them, that, at noon, they could see nearly ahundred around them, besides an immense number of small pieces. Inthis situation they spent Christmas-day, much in the same manner asthey had done in the former year. Happily our people had continualday-light, and clear weather for had it been as foggy as it was onsome preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have saved themfrom being dashed to pieces. While the Resolution was in the high latitudes many of her companywere attacked with a slight fever, occasioned by colds. The disorder, however, yielded to the simplest remedies, and was generally removedin a few days. On the 5th of January, 1774, the ship not being then inmuch more than fifty degrees of latitude, there were only one or twopersons on the sick list. After Captain Cook, agreeably to his late resolution, had traversed alarge extent of ocean, without discovering land, he again directed hiscourse to the southward. By the 30th of the month, throughobstructions and difficulties, which, from their similar nature tothose already mentioned, it would be tedious to repeat, he reached tothe seventy-first degree of latitude. Thus far had he gone: but tohave proceeded farther would have been the height of folly andmadness. It would have been exposing himself, his men, and his ship tothe utmost danger, and perhaps to destruction, without the leastprospect of advantage. The captain was of opinion, as indeed were mostof the gentlemen on board, that the ice now in sight extended quite tothe pole, or might join to some land, to which it might be fixed fromthe earliest time. If, however, there be such land, it can afford nobetter retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. Though our commander had notonly the ambition of going farther than any one had done before, butof proceeding as far as it was possible for man to go, he was the lessdissatisfied with the interruption he now met with, as it shortenedthe dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of thesouthern polar regions. In fact he was impelled by inevitablenecessity to tack, and stand back to the north. The determination which Captain Cook now formed was to spend theensuing winter within the tropic, if he met with no employment beforehe came there. He was well satisfied, that no continent was to befound in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south, as to bewholly inaccessible on account of ice. If there existed a continent inthe southern Atlantic Ocean, he was sensible that he could not exploreit, without having the whole summer before them. Upon a supposition, on the other hand, that there is no land there he might undoubtedlyhave reached the Cape of Good Hope by April. In that case, he wouldhave put an end to the finding of a continent; which was indeed thefirst object of the voyage. But this could not satisfy the extensiveand magnanimous mind of our commander. He had a good ship, expresslysent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and was not in want either ofstores or of provisions. In such circumstances, to have quitted thisSouthern Pacific Ocean, would, he thought, have been betraying notonly a want of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing it to havebeen so well explored, that nothing farther could be done. Although hehad proved that there was no continent but what must lie far to thesouth, there remained, nevertheless, room for very large islands inplaces wholly unexamined. Many, likewise, of those which had formerlybeen discovered had been but imperfectly explored, and theirsituations were as imperfectly known. He was also pursuaded, that hiscontinuing some time longer in this sea would be productive ofimprovements in navigation and geography, as well as in othersciences. In consequence of these views, it was Captain Cook's intention firstto go in search of the land said to have been discovered by JuanFernandez, in the last century. If he should fail in finding thisland, he proposed to direct his course in quest of Easter Island orDavis's Land, the situation of which was known with so littlecertainty, that none of the attempts lately made for its discovery hadbeen successful. He next intended to get within the tropic, and thento proceed to the west, touching at, and settling the situations ofsuch islands, as he might meet with till he arrived at Otaheite, whereit was necessary for him to stop, to look for the Adventure. It wasalso in his contemplation to run as far west as the Tierra Austral delEspiritu Santo, which was discovered by Quiros, and to which M. DeBougainville has given the name of the Great Cyclades. From this land, it was the captain's plan to steer to the south, and so back to theeast, between the latitudes of fifty and sixty. In the execution ofthis plan, it was his purpose, if possible, to attain the length ofCape Horn in the ensuing November, when he should have the best partof the summer before him, to explore the southern part of the AtlanticOcean. Great as was this design, our commander thought it capable ofbeing carried into execution; and when he communicated it to hisofficers, he had the satisfaction of finding that it received theirzealous and cheerful concurrence. They displayed the utmost readinessfor executing, in the most effectual manner, every measure he thoughtproper to adopt. With such good examples to direct them, the seamenwere always obedient and alert; and on the present occasion, so farwere they from wishing the voyage to be concluded, that they rejoicedat the prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soonenjoying the benefits of a milder climate. In pursuing his course to the north, Captain Cook became well assured, that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such was ever made, couldbe nothing more than a small island. At this time, the captain wasattacked by a bilious colic, the violence of which confined him to hisbed. The management of the ship, upon this occasion, was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her entirely to hiscommander's satisfaction. It was several days before the mostdangerous symptoms of Captain Cook's disorder were removed; duringwhich time, Mr. Patten the surgeon, in attending upon him, manifestednot only the skilfulness of a physician, but the tenderness of anurse. When the captain began to recover, a favourite dog, belongingto Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to his tender stomach. There was noother fresh meat whatever on board, and he could eat not only of thebroth which was made of it, but of the flesh itself, when there wasnothing else that he was capable of tasting. Thus did he derivenourishment and strength from food, which to most people in Europe, would have been in the highest degree disgusting, and productive ofsickness. The necessity of the case overcame every feeling of dislike. On the 11th of March, our navigators came within sight of EasterIsland, or Davis's Land; their transactions at which place were of toolittle moment to deserve a particular recital. The inhabitants are, ingeneral, a slender race. In colour, features, and language, they bearsuch an affinity to the people of the more western isles, that therecan be no doubt of their having been descended from one commonoriginal. It is indeed extraordinary, that the same nation should havespread themselves to so wide an extent, as to take in almost a fourthpart of the circumference of the globe. With regard to the dispositionof the natives of Easter Island, it is friendly and hospitable; butthey are as much addicted to stealing, as any of their neighbours. Theisland itself hath so little to recommend it, that no nation need tocontend for the honour of its discovery. So sparing has nature been ofher favours to this spot, that there is in it no safe anchorage, nowood for fuel, no fresh water worth taking on board. The mostremarkable objects in the country are some surprising giganticstatues, which were first seen by Roggewein. It was with pleasure that our commander quitted a place, which couldafford such slender accommodations to voyagers, and directed hiscourse for the Marquesas Islands. He had not been long at sea, beforehe was again attacked by his bilious disorder. The attack, however, was not so violent as the former one had been. He had reason tobelieve, that the return of his disease was owing to his havingexposed and fatigued himself too much at Easter Island. On the 6th and 7th of April, our navigators came within sight of fourislands, which they knew to be the Marquesas. To one of them, whichwas a new discovery, Captain Cook gave the name of Hood's Island, after that of the young gentleman by whom it was first seen. As soonas the ship was brought to an anchor in Madre de Dios, or ResolutionBay, in the Island of St. Christina, a traffic commenced, in thecourse of which the natives would frequently keep our goods, withoutmaking any return. At last the captain was obliged to fire amusket-ball over one man, who had several times treated the English inthis manner. This produced only a temporary effect. Too many of theIndians having come on board, our commander, who was going into a boatto find a convenient place for mooring the ship, said to the officers, "You must look well after these people or they will certainly carryoff something or other. " Scarcely had he gotten into the boat, when hewas informed, that they had stolen an iron stanchion from the oppositegangway, and were carrying it off. Upon this he ordered his men tofire over the canoe, till he could get round in the boat, but not tokill any one. Such, however, was the noise made by the natives, thatthe order was not heard; and the unhappy thief was killed at the firstshot. All the Indians having retired with precipitation, inconsequence of this unfortunate accident, Captain Cook followed theminto the bay, prevailed upon some of them to come alongside his boat, and, by suitable presents, so far conciliated their minds, that theirfears seemed to be in a great measure allayed. The death of theircountryman did not cure them of their thievish disposition; but, atlength, it was somewhat restrained by their conviction, that nodistance secured them from the reach of our muskets. Several smallerinstances of their talent at stealing, the captain thought proper tooverlook. The provisions obtained at St. Christina were yams, plantains, breadfruit, a few cocoa-nuts, fowls, and small pigs. For a time, thetrade was carried on upon reasonable terms: but the market was at lastruined by the indiscretion of some young gentlemen, who gave away inexchange various articles which the inhabitants had not seen before, and which captivated their fancy above nails, or more useful irontools. One of the gentleman had given for a pig a very large quantityof red feathers, which he had gotten at Amsterdam. The effect of thiswas particularly fatal. It was not possible to support the trade, inthe manner in which it was now begun, even for a single day. When, therefore, our commander found that he was not likely to be supplied, on any conditions, with sufficient refreshments, and that the islandwas neither very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor foraffording the necessary repairs of the ship, he determined to proceedimmediately to some other place, where the wants of his people couldbe effectually relieved. After having been nineteen weeks at sea, andhaving lived all that time upon salt diet, a change in their foodcould not avoid being peculiarly desirable: and yet, on their arrivalat St. Christina, it could scarcely be asserted that a single man wassick; and there were but a few who had the least complaint of anykind. 'This, ' says Captain Cook, 'was undoubtedly owing to the manyantiscorbutic articles we had on board, and to the great attention ofthe surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in time. ' It mayjustly be added, that this was likewise owing to the singular care ofthe captain himself, and to the exertions of his authority, inenforcing the excellent regulations which his wisdom and humanity hadadopted. The chief reason for our commander's touching at the MarquesasIslands, was to fix their situation; that being the only circumstancein which the nautical account of them, given in Mr. Dalrymple'scollection, is deficient. It was farther desirable to settle thispoint, as it would lead to a more accurate knowledge of Mendana'sother discoveries. Accordingly, Captain Cook has marked the situationof the Marquesas with his usual correctness. He has also taken care todescribe the particular cove in Resolution Bay, in the island of St. Christina, which is most convenient for obtaining wood and water. It is remarkable, with respect to the inhabitants of the MarquesasIslands, that collectively taken, they are, without exception thefinest race of people in this sea. Perhaps they surpass all othernations in symmetry of form, and regularity of features. It is plain, however, from the affinity of their language to that of Otaheite andthe Society Isles, that they are of the same origin. Of this affinitythe English were fully sensible, though they could not converse withthem; but Oedidee was capable of doing it tolerably well. From the Marquesas, Captain Cook steered for Otaheite, with a view offalling in with some of the islands discovered by former navigators, and especially by the Dutch, the situation of which had not beenaccurately determined. In the course of the voyage, he passed a numberof low islots, connected together by reefs of coral rocks. One of theislands, on which Lieutenant Cooper went on shore, with two boats wellarmed, was called by the natives Tiookea. It had been discovered andvisited by Captain Byron. The inhabitants of Tiookea are of a muchdarker colour than those of the higher islands, and appeared to bemore fierce in their dispositions. This may be owing to their mannerof gaining their subsistence, which is chiefly from the sea, and totheir being much exposed to the sun and the weather. Our voyagersobserved, that they were stout well-made men, and that they had markedon their bodies the figure of a fish, which was a good emblem of theirprofession. Besides passing by St. George's Islands, which had been so named byCaptain Byron, our commander made the discovery of four others. Thesehe called Palliser's Isles, in honour of his particular friend, SirHugh Palliser. The inhabitants seemed to be the same sort of people asthose of Tiookea, and, like them, were armed with long pikes. CaptainCook could not determine with any degree of certainty, whether thegroup of isles he had lately seen, were, or were not, any of thosethat had been discovered by the Dutch navigators. This was owing tothe neglect of recording, with sufficient accuracy, the situation oftheir discoveries. Our commander, hath, in general, observed withregard to this part of the ocean, that, from the latitude of twentydown to fourteen or twelve, and from the meridian of a hundred andthirty-eight to a hundred and forty-eight or a hundred and fifty west, it is so strewed with low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed withtoo much caution. On the 22nd of April, Captain Cook reached the Island of Otaheite, andanchored in Matavia Bay. As his chief reason for putting in at thisplace was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity of ascertaining the errorOf the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate ofgoing, the first object was to land the instruments, and to erecttents for the reception of a guard, and such other people, as it wasnecessary to have on shore. Sick there were none; for the refreshmentswhich had been obtained at the Marquesas had removed every complaintof that kind. From the quantity of provisions, which, contrary to expectation, ourcommander now found at Otaheite, he determined to make a longer stayin the island than he had at first intended. Accordingly, he tookmeasures for the repairs of the ship, which the high southernlatitudes had rendered indispensably necessary. During Captain Cook's stay at Otaheite, he maintained a most friendlyconnexion with the inhabitants; and a continual interchange of visitswas preserved between him and Otoo, Towha, and other chiefs of thecountry. His traffic with them was greatly facilitated by his havingfortunately brought with him some red parrot feathers from the islandof Amsterdam. These were jewels of high value in the eyes of theOtaheitans. The captain's stock in trade was by this time greatlyexhausted; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, he would havefound it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessaryrefreshments. Among other entertainments which our commander and the rest of theEnglish gentlemen met with at Otaheite, one was a grand naval review. The vessels of war consisted of a hundred and sixty large doublecanoes, well equipped, manned, and armed. They were decorated withflags and streamers; and the chiefs, together with all those who wereon the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits. The wholefleet made a noble appearance; such as our voyagers had never seenbefore in this sea, or could ever have expected. Besides the vesselsof war, there were a hundred and seventy sail of smaller doublecanoes, which seemed to be designed for transports and victuallers. Upon each of them was a little house; and they were rigged with mastand sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cookguessed, that there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred andsixty men in the whole fleet. He was not able to obtain fullinformation concerning the design of this armament. Notwithstanding the agreeable intercourse that was, in general, maintained between our commander and the people of Otaheite, circumstances occasionally happened, which called for peculiarexertions of his prudence and resolution. One of the natives, who hadattempted to steal a water-cask from the watering-place, was caught inthe fact, sent on board, and put in irons. In this situation, he wasseen by King Otoo, and other chiefs. Captain Cook having made known tothem the crime of their countryman, Otoo entreated that he might beset at liberty. This the captain however refused, alleging, that sincehe punished his own people, when they committed the least offenceagainst Otoo's, it was but just that this man should also be punished. As Captain Cook knew that Otoo would not punish him, he resolved to doit himself. Accordingly, he directed the criminal to be carried onshore to the tents, and having himself followed, with the chiefs andother Otaheitans, he ordered the guard out, under arms, and commandedthe man to be tied up to a post. Otoo again solicited the culprit'srelease, and in this he was seconded by his sister, but in vain. Thecaptain expostulated with him on the conduct of the man, and of theIndians in general; telling him, that neither he nor any of the ship'scompany, took the smallest matter of property from them without firstpaying for it; enumerating the articles which the English had given inexchange for such and such things; and urging, that it was wrong inthem to steal from those who were their friends. He added, that thepunishing of the guilty person would be the means of saving the livesof several of Otoo's people, by deterring them from committing crimesof the like nature, and thus preventing them from the danger of beingshot to death, which would certainly happen, at one time or other, ifthey persisted in their robberies. With these arguments the kingappeared to be satisfied, and only desired that the man might not bekilled. Captain Cook then directed, that the crowd, which was verygreat, should be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence ofthem all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with acat-o'-nine-tails. This punishment the man sustained with greatfirmness, after which he was set at liberty. When the natives weregoing away, Towha called them back, and, with much gracefulness ofaction, addressed them in a speech of nearly half an hour in length, the design of which was to condemn their present conduct, and torecommend a different one for the future. To make a farther impressionupon the minds of the inhabitants, our commander ordered his marinesto go through their exercises, and to load and fire in volleys withball. As they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is more easy toconceive than to describe the amazement which possessed the Indiansduring the whole time, and especially those of them who had not seenany thing of the kind before. The judicious will discern, with regard to this narrative, that itthrows peculiar light on Captain Cook's character. Nor is it anuncurious circumstance in the history of human society, that astranger should thus exercise jurisdiction over the natives of acountry, in the presence of the prince of that country, without hisauthority, and even contrary to his solicitations. Another disagreeable altercation with the inhabitants of Otaheitearose from the negligence of one of the English sentinels on shore. Having either slept or quitted his post, an Indian seized theopportunity of carrying off his musket. When any extraordinary theftwas committed, it immediately excited such an alarm among the nativesin general, from their fear of Captain Cook's resentment, that theyfled from their habitations, and a stop was put to the traffic forprovisions. On the present occasion, the captain had no small degreeof trouble; but, by his prudent conduct, the musket was recovered, peace restored, and commerce again opened. In the differences whichhappened with the several people he met with in his voyages, it was arule with him, never to touch the least article of their property, anyfarther than to detain their canoes for a while, when it becameabsolutely necessary. He always chose the most mild and equitablemethods of bringing them to reason; and in this he not only succeeded, but frequently put things upon a better footing than if no contentionhad taken place. During this visit to Otaheite, fruit and other refreshments wereobtained in great plenty. The relief arising from them was the moreagreeable and salutary, as the bread of the ship was in a badcondition. Though the biscuit had been aired and picked at NewZealand, it was now in such a state of decay, that it was necessaryfor it to undergo another airing and cleaning, in which much of it wasfound wholly rotten, and unfit to be eaten. This decay was judged tobe owing to the ice our navigators had frequently taken in, when tothe southward, which made the hold of the vessel cold and damp, and tothe great heat that succeeded when they came to the north. Whateverwas the cause, the loss was so considerable, that the men were put toa scanty allowance in this article, with the additional mortification, of the bread's being bad as could be used. Two goats, that had been given by Captain Furneaux to Otoo, in theformer part of the voyage, seemed to promise fair for answering thepurposes for which they were left upon the island. The ewe, soonafter, had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to bealmost ready to propagate. At the same time, the old ewe was againwith kid. The people were very fond of them, and they were inexcellent condition. From these circumstances, Captain cookentertained a hope, that, in a course of years they would multiply somuch, as to be extended over all the isles of the Southern Ocean. Thelike success did not attend the sheep which had been left in thecountry. These speedily died, one excepted, which was said to be yetalive. Our navigators also furnished the natives with cats, havinggiven away no less than twenty at Otaheite, besides some which hadbeen made presents of at Ulietea and Huaheine. With regard to the number of the inhabitants of Otaheite, ourcommander collected, from comparing several facts together, that, including women and children, there could not be less, in the wholeisland, than two hundred and four thousand. This number, at firstsight, exceeded his belief. But when he came to reflect on the vastswarms of people that appeared whereever he went, he was convinced, that the estimate was agreeable to truth. Such was the friendly treatment which our voyagers met with atOtaheite, that one of the gunner's mates was induced to form a planfor remaining in the country. As he knew that he could not execute hisscheme with success, while the Resolution continued in Matavai Bay, hetook the opportunity, when she was ready to quit it, and the sailswere set for the purpose, to slip overboard. Being a good swimmer, hehad no doubt of getting safe to a canoe, which was at some distanceready to receive him; for his design was concerted with the natives, and had even been encouraged by Otoo. However, he was discoveredbefore he had gotten clear of the ship, and a boat being presentlyhoisted out, he was taken up, and brought back to the vessel. When ourcommander reflected on this man's situation, he did not think him veryculpable, or his desire of staying in the island so extraordinary, asmight at first view be imagined. He was a native of Ireland, and hadsailed in the Dutch service. Captain Cook, on his return from hisformer voyage, had picked him up at Batavia, and had kept him in hisemployment ever since. It did not appear, that he had either friendsor connexions, which could bind him to any particular part of theworld. All nations being alike to him, where could he be more happythan at Otaheite? Here, in one of the finest climates of the globe, hecould enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, inease and plenty. The captain seems to think, that if the man hadapplied to him in time, he might have given his consent to hisremaining in the country. On the 15th of May, Captain Cook anchored in O'Wharre Harbour, in theisland of Huaheine. He was immediately visited by his friend Oree, andthe same agreeable intercourse subsisted between the captain and thisgood old chief, which had formerly taken place. Red feathers were nothere in such estimation as they had been at Otaheite; the natives ofHuaheine having the good sense to give a preference to the more usefularticles of nails and axes. During the stay of our voyagers in theisland, some alarms were occasioned by the thievish disposition ofseveral of the inhabitants; but matters subsided without any materialconsequences. A solemn march, which our commander made through part ofthe country, at the head of forty-eight men, tended to impress theIndians with a sense of his power and authority. In fact, theirattempts at stealing had been too much invited by the indiscretion ofsome of the English, who unguardedly separated themselves in thewoods, for the purpose of killing birds; and who managed their musketsso unskillfully, as to render them less formidable in the eyes of thenatives. I cannot persuade myself to omit a dramatic entertainment, at whichseveral of the gentlemen belonging to the Resolution attended oneevening. The piece represented a girl as running away with ournavigators from Otaheite; and the story was partly founded in truth;for a young woman had taken a passage in the ship, down to Ulietea. She happened to be present at the representation of her ownadventures; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with greatdifficulty that she could be prevailed upon by the English gentlemento see the play out, or to refrain from tears while it was acting. Thepiece concluded with the reception which she was supposed to meet withfrom her friends at her return; and it was a reception that was by nomeans favourable. As these people, when they see occasion, can addlittle extempore pieces to their entertainments, it is reasonable toimagine, that the representation now described was intended as asatire against the girl, and to discourage others from following hersteps. Such is the sense which they entertain of the propriety offemale decorum. During Captain Cook's stay at Huaheine, breadfruit, cocoa-nuts, andother vegetable productions, were procured in abundance, but not asufficiency of hogs to supply the daily expense of the ship. This waspartly owing to a want of proper articles for traffic. The captain wasobliged, therefore, to set the smiths at work to make different sortsof nails, iron tools, and instruments, in order to enable him toobtain refreshments at the islands he was yet to visit, and to supporthis credit and influence among the natives. When our commander was ready to sail from Huaheine, Oree was the lastman that went out of the vessel. At parting, Captain Cook told him, that they should meet each other no more; at which he wept and said, 'Let your sons come, we will treat them well. ' At Ulietea, to which the captain next directed his course, the eventsthat occurred were nearly similar to those which have already beenrelated. He had always been received by the people of this island inthe most hospitable manner, and they were justly entitled to everything which it was in his power to grant. They expressed the deepestconcern at his departure, and were continually importuning him toreturn. Oree the chief, and his wife and daughter, but especially thetwo latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. Their grief was soexcessive, that it might, perhaps, be doubted whether it was entirelysincere and unaffected; but our commander was of opinion that it wasreal. At length, when he was ready to sail, they took a mostaffectionate leave. Oree's last request to Captain Cook was, that hewould return; and when he could not obtain a promise to that effect, he asked the name of his burying-place. To this strange question thecaptain answered, without hesitation, that it was Stepney; that beingthe parish in which he lived when in London. Mr. Forster, to whom thesame question was proposed, replied with greater wisdom andrecollection, that no man, who used the sea, could say where he shouldbe buried. As our commander could not promise, or even then suppose, that moreEnglish ships would be sent to the southern isles, Oedidee, who for somany months had been the faithful companion of our navigators, choseto remain in his native country. But he left them with a regret fullydemonstrative of his esteem and affection, nor could any thing havetorn him from them, but the fear of never returning. When Oree pressedso ardently Captain Cook's return, he sometimes gave such answers, asleft room for hope. At these answers Oedidee would eagerly catch, takehim on one side, and ask him over again. The captain declares, that hehad not words to describe the anguish which appeared in this youngman's breast, when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst intotears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Oedidee was a youth of goodparts, and of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition; but as he wasalmost wholly ignorant of the religion, government, manners, customs, and traditions of his countrymen, and the neighbouring islands, nomaterial knowledge could have been collected from him, had ourcommander brought him away. He would, however, in every respect, havebeen a better specimen of the nation than Omai. When Captain Cook first came to these islands, he had some thoughts ofvisiting Tupia's famous Bolabola. But having obtained a plentifulsupply of refreshments, and the route he had in view allowing him notime to spare, he laid this design aside, and directed his course tothe west. Thus did he take his leave, as he then thought, for ever, ofthese happy isles, on which benevolent nature has spread her luxuriantsweets with a lavish hand; and in which the natives, copying thebounty of Providence, are equally liberal; being ready to contributeplentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators. [8] [Footnote 8: From Mr. Wales's observations it appeared, that during five mouths, in which the watch had passed through the extremes of heat and cold, it went better in the cold than in the hot climates. ] On the 6th of June, the day after our voyagers left Ulietea, they sawland, which they found to be a low reef island, about four leagues incompass, and of a circular form. This was Howe Island, which had beendiscovered by Captain Wallis. Nothing remarkable occurred from tillsday to the 16th, when land was again seen. It was another reef island;and being a new discovery, Captain Cook gave it the name of PalmerstonIsland, in honour to Lord Palmerston. On the 20th, fresh landappeared, which was perceived to be inhabited. This induced ourcommander to go on shore with a party of gentlemen; but the nativeswere found to be fierce and untractable. All endeavours to bring themto a parley were to no purpose; for they came on with the ferocity ofwild boars, and instantly threw their darts. Two or three musketsdischarged in the air, did not prevent one of them from advancingstill farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a spear, whichpassed close over Captain Cook's shoulder. The courage of this man hadnearly cost him his life. When he threw his spear, he was not fivepaces from the captain, who had resolved to shoot him for his ownpreservation. It happened, however, that his musket missed fire; acircumstance on which he afterward reflected with pleasure. When hejoined his party, and tried his musket in the air, it went offperfectly well. This island, from the disposition and behaviour of thenatives, with whom no intercourse could be established, and from whomno benefit could be received, was called by our commander SavageIsland. It is about eleven leagues in circuit; is of a round form andgood height: and has deep waters close to its shores. Among its otherdisadvantages, it is not furnished with a harbour. In pursuing his course to the west-south-west, Captain Cook passed bya number of small islands, and, on the 26th, anchored on the northside of Anamocka, or Rotterdam. A traffic immediately commenced withthe natives, who brought what provisions they had, being chiefly yamsand shaddocks, which they exchanged for nails, beads, and other smallarticles. Here, as in many former cases, the captain was put to sometrouble, on account of the thievish disposition of the inhabitants. Asthey had gotten possession of an adze and two muskets, he found itnecessary to exert himself with peculiar vigour, in order to obligethem to make a restitution. For this purpose, he commanded all themarines to be armed, and sent on shore; and the result of this measurewas, that the things which had been stolen were restored. In thecontest, Captain Cook was under the necessity of firing some smallshot at a native, who had distinguished himself by his resistance. Hiscountrymen afterward reported that he was dead; but he was onlywounded, and that not in a dangerous manner. Though his sufferingswere the effects of his own misbehaviour the captain endeavoured tosoften them by making him a present, and directing his wounds to bedressed by the surgeon of the ship. The first time that our commander landed at Anamocka, an old ladypresented him with a girl, and gave him to understand that she was athis service. Miss, who had previously been instructed, wanted aspikenail or a shirt, neither of which he had to give her; and heflattered himself, that by making the two women sensible of hispoverty, he should easily get clear of their importunities. In this, however, he was mistaken. The favours of the young lady were offeredupon credit; and on his declining the proposal, the old woman began toargue with him, and then to abuse him. As far as he could collect fromher countenance and her actions, the design of her speech was both toridicule and reproach him, for refusing to entertain so fine a youngwoman. Indeed the girl was by no means destitute of beauty; butCaptain Cook found it more easy to withstand her allurements than theabuses of the ancient matron, and therefore hastened into his boat. While the captain was on shore at Anamocka, he got the names of twentyislands, which lie between the north-west and north-east. Some of themwere in sight; and two of them, which are most to the west, areremarkable on account of their great height. These are Amattafoa andOghao. From a continual column of smoke which was seen daily ascendingfrom the middle of Amattafoa, it was judged that there was a volcanoin that island. Anamocka was first discovered by Tasman, and by him was namedRotterdam. It is of a triangular form, and each side extends aboutthree and a half or four miles. From the north-west to the south ofthe island, round by the east and north, it is encompassed by a numberof small isles, sand-banks, and breakers. An end could not be seen totheir extent to the north, and they may possibly reach as far to thesouth as Amsterdam or Tongataboo. Together with Middleburg, or Eaoowe, and Pilsart, these form a group, containing about three degrees oflatitude, and two of longitude. To this group Captain Cook had giventhe name of the Friendly Isles, or Archipelago, from the firm allianceand friendship which seemed to subsist among their inhabitants, andfrom their courteous behaviour to strangers. The same group mayperhaps be extended much farther, even down to Boscawen and Keppel'sIsles, which were discovered by Captain Wallis, and lie nearly in thesame meridian. Whilst our commander was at Anamocka, he was particularly assiduous toprevent the introduction of a certain disorder. As some of his peoplebrought with them the remains of this disease from the Society Isles, he prohibited them from having any female intercourse, and he hadreason to believe that his endeavours were successful. The productions of Rotterdam, and the persons, manners, and customs ofits inhabitants, are similar to those of Amsterdam. It is not, howeverequally plentiful in its fruits, nor is every part of it in so high astate of cultivation. Neither hath it arisen to the same degree ofwealth, with regard to cloth, matting, ornaments, and other articleswhich constitute the chief riches of the islanders of the SouthernOcean. Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discovered land onthe 1st of July; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a smallisland, to which, on account of the number of turtle that were seenupon the coast, Captain Cook gave the name of Turtle Isle. On the16th, high land was seen bearing south-west, which no one doubted tobe the Australis del Espirito Santo of Quiros, and which is called byM. De Bougainville the Great Cyclades. After exploring the coast forsome days, the captain came to an anchor, in a harbour in the islandof Mallicollo. One of his first objects was to commence a friendlyintercourse with the natives; but, while he was thus employed, anaccident occurred, which threw all into confusion, though in the endit was rather advantageous than hurtful to the English. A fellow in acanoe, having been refused admittance into one of our boats, bent hisbow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boatkeeper. Some of hiscountrymen having prevented his doing it that instant, time was givento acquaint our commander with the transaction, who immediately ranupon deck. At this minute, the Indian had directed his bow to theboatkeeper; but upon being called to by Captain Cook, he pointed it athim. Happily, the captain had a musket in his hand loaded with smallshot, and gave him the contents. By this however, he was onlystaggered for a moment; for he still held his bow in the attitude ofshooting. A second discharge of the same nature made him drop it, andobliged him, together with the other natives who were in the canoe, topaddle off with all possible celerity. At this time, some of theinhabitants began to shoot arrows from another quarter. A musketdischarged in the air had no effect upon them, but no sooner was afour-pound ball shot over their heads than they fled in the utmostconfusion. A few hours after these transactions, the English put off in twoboats, and landed in the face of four or five hundred people, who wereassembled on the shore and who, though they were all armed with bowsand arrows, clubs, and spears, made not the least opposition. On thecontrary, when they saw Captain Cook advance with nothing but a greenbranch in his hand, one of them, who appeared to be a chief, givinghis bow and arrows to another, met the captain in the water, bearingalso a green branch. These being mutually exchanged in token offriendship, the chief led our commander to the crowd, to whom heimmediately distributed presents. The marines, in the mean time, weredrawn up on the beach. Captain Cook then acquainted the Indians, bysigns, that he wanted wood; and in the same manner permission wasgranted him to cut down the trees. Much traffic could not be carried on with these people, because theyset no value on nails, or iron tools, or, indeed, on any articleswhich our navigators could furnish. In such exchanges as they didmake, and which were principally of arrows for pieces of cloth, theydistinguished themselves by their honesty. When the ship had begun tosail from the island, and they might easily, in consequence of theircanoes dropping astern, have avoided delivering the things they hadbeen paid for, they used their utmost efforts to get up with her, thatthey might discharge their obligations. One man, in particular, followed the Resolution, a considerable time, and did not reach hertill the object which brought him was forgotten. As soon as he camealongside the vessel, he held up the thing which had been purchased;and, though several of the crew offered to buy it, he insisted upondelivering it to the person to whom it had been sold. That person, notknowing him again, would have given something in return; but this herefused, and shewed him what he had before received. There was only asingle instance in which the natives took, or even attempted to take, any thing from our voyagers, by any means whatever; and in that caserestitution was immediately made, without trouble and withoutaltercation. The inhabitants of Mallicollo, in general, are the most ugly and illproportioned people that Captain Cook had ever seen, and are in everyrespect different from all the nations which had been met with in theSouthern Ocean. They are a very dark-coloured, and rather a diminutiverace, with long heads, flat faces, and countenances, which have someresemblance to that of the monkey. Their hair, which is mostlyblack or brown, is short and curly; but not altogether so soft andwoolly as that of a negro. The difference of this people from any whomour commander had yet visited, appeared not only in their persons buttheir language. Of about eighty words, which were collected by Mr. Forster, scarcely one was found to bear any affinity to the languagespoken in any country or island hitherto described. It was observed byCaptain Cook, that the natives could pronounce most of the Englishwords with great ease. They had not so much as a name for a dog, andknew nothing of that animal; for which reason the captain left them adog and a bitch; and as they were very fond of them, it was highlyprobable that the breed would be fostered and increased. To the harbour, in which our commander anchored, while he lay atMallicollo, he gave the name of Port Sandwich. It has many advantages, with regard to depth of water, shelter from winds, and lying so nearthe shore as to be a cover to those of a ship's company who may becarrying on any necessary operations at land. Soon after our navigators had gotten to sea, which was on the 23rd ofJuly, they discovered three or four small islands, that before hadappeared to be connected. At this time the Resolution was not far fromthe Isle of Ambrym, the Isle of Paoom, and the Isle of Apee. On thenext morning, several more islands were discovered, lying off thesouth-east point of Apee, and constituting a group, which Captain Cookcalled Shepherd's isles, in honour of his learned and valuable friend, Dr. Shepherd, Plumian professor of Astronomy at Cambridge. The shipwas this day in some danger. It suddenly fell calm, and our voyagerswere left to the mercy of the current, close by the isles, where nosounding could be found with a line of a hundred and eighty fathoms. The lands or islands, which lay around the vessel in every direction, were so numerous, that they could not be counted. At this crisis abreeze sprung up, which happily relieved the captain and his companyfrom the anxiety the calm had occasioned. Amidst the number of islands, that were continually seen by ournavigators, there was only one on which no inhabitants were discerned. This consisted chiefly of a remarkable peaked rock, which was onlyaccessible to birds, and which obtained the name of the Monument. In the farther course of the ship to the southward, our navigatorsdrew near to certain lands, which they found to consist of one largeisland, the southern and western extremities of which extended beyondtheir sight. Three or four smaller ones lay off its north side. To thetwo principal of these Captain Cook gave the name of Montagu andHinchinbrook; and the large island he named Sandwich, in honour of hisnoble patron, the Earl of Sandwich. This island, which was spottedwith woods and lawns, agreeably diversified over the whole surface, and which had a gentle slope from the hills down to the sea-coastexhibited a most beautiful and delightful prospect. The examination ofit was not, however, so much an object with our commander as toproceed to the south, in order to find the southern extremity of theArchipelago. Pursuing his discoveries, Captain Cook came in sight of an island, which was afterwards known to be called by the natives Erromango. After coasting it for three days, he brought his vessel to anchor in abay there, on the 3rd of August. The next day, he went with two boatsto examine the coast, and to look for a proper landing-place, that hemight obtain a supply of wood and water. At this time, the inhabitantsbegan to assemble on the shore, and by signs to invite our people toland. Their behaviour was apparently so friendly, that the captain wascharmed with it; and the only thing which could give him the leastsuspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, and bows and arrows. He did not, therefore, remit his vigilance; butkept his eye continually upon the chief, watching his looks, as wellas his actions. It soon was evident that the intentions of the Indianswere totally hostile. They made a violent attempt to sieze upon one ofthe boats; and though, on our commander's pointing a musket at them, they in some measure desisted, yet they returned in an instant, seemingly determined to carry their design into execution. At the headof the party was the chief; while others, who could not come at theboat, stood behind with darts, stones, and bows and arrows in hand, ready to support their countrymen. As signs and threats had no effect, the safety of Captain Cook and his people became the only object ofconsideration; and yet he was unwilling to fire on the multitude. Heresolved, therefore, to make the chief alone the victim of his owntreachery, and accordingly aimed his musket at him; but at thiscritical moment it missed fire. This circumstance encouraged thenatives to despise our weapons, and to shew the superiority of theirown, by throwing stones and darts and by shooting arrows. Hence itbecame absolutely necessary for the captain to give orders to his mento fire upon the assailants. The first discharge threw them intoconfusion; but a second was scarcely sufficient to drive them off thebeach. In consequence of this skirmish, four of the Indians lay, toall appearance, dead on the shore. However, two of them were afterwardperceived to crawl into the bushes; and it was happy for these peoplethat not half of the muskets of the English would go off, sinceotherwise many more must have fallen. The inhabitants were, at length, so terrified as to make no farther appearance; and two oars which hadbeen lost in the conflict, were left standing up against the bushes. It was observed of these islanders, that they seemed of a differentrace from those of Mallicollo, and that they spoke a differentlanguage. They are of a middle size, with a good shape and tolerablefeatures. Their colour is very dark; and their aspect is not mended bya custom they have of painting their faces, some with black, andothers with red pigment. As to their hair, it is curly and crisp, andsomewhat woolly. The few women who were seen, and who appeared to beugly, wore a kind of petticoat, made either of palm leaves, or a plantsimilar in its nature; but the men, like those of Mallicollo, werealmost entirely naked. On account of the treacherous behaviour of theinhabitants of Erromango, Captain Cook called a promontory, orpeninsula, near which the skirmish happened, _Traitor's Head_. From this place the captain sailed for an island which had beendiscovered before, at a distance, and at which, on account of hiswanting a large quantity of wood and water, he was resolved to makesome stay. At first the natives were disposed to be very hostile butour commander, with equal wisdom and humanity contrived to terrifythem, without danger to their lives. This was principally effected byfiring a few great guns, at which they were so much alarmed, asafterwards to be brought to tolerable order. Among these islanders, many were inclined to be on friendly terms with our navigators, andespecially the old people; whilst most of the younger were daring andinsolent, and obliged the English to keep to their arms. It wasnatural enough, that age should be prudent and cautious, and youthbold and impetuous; and yet this distinction, with regard to thebehaviour of the various nations which had been visited by CaptainCook, had not occurred before. The island, where the captain now stayed, was found upon inquiry to becalled, by the inhabitants, Tanna; and three others in itsneighbourhood, and which could be seen from it, were distinguished bythe names of Immer, Erronan or Footoona and Annatom. From such information of the natives, as our commander could see noreason to doubt, it appeared, that circumcision was practised amongthem, and that they were eaters of human flesh. Concerning the lattersubject, he should never have thought of asking them a singlequestion, if they had not introduced it themselves, by inquiringwhether the English had the same custom. It hath been argued, thatnecessity alone could be the origin of this horrid practice. But asthe people of Tanna are possessed of fine pork and fowls, togetherwith an abundance of roots and fruits, the plea of necessity cannot beurged in their behalf. In fact, no instance was seen of their eatinghuman flesh; and, therefore, there might, perhaps, be some reason tohesitate, in pronouncing them to be cannibals. By degrees the inhabitants grew so courteous and civil, as to permitthe English gentlemen to ramble about in the skirts of the woods, andto shoot in them, without affording them the least molestation, orshewing any dislike. One day, some boys of the island having gottenbehind thickets, and thrown two or three stones at our people, whowere cutting wood, they were fired at by the petty officers on duty. Captain Cook, who was then on shore, was alarmed at the report of themuskets; and, when he was informed of the cause, was much displeasedthat so wanton a use should be made of our fire-arms. Proper measureswere taken by him to prevent such conduct for the future. In the island of Tanna was a volcano, which sometimes made a dreadfulnoise, and, at each explosion, which happened every three or fourminutes, threw up fire and smoke in prodigious columns. At one time, great stones were seen high in the air. At the foot of the hill wereseveral hot springs; and on the side of it Mr. Forster found someplaces whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks orfissures of the earth. A thermometer that was placed in a little holemade in one of them, and which in the open air stood only at eighty, rose to a hundred and seventy. In another instance, the mercury roseto a hundred and ninety-one. Our commander, being desirous of gettinga nearer and good view of the volcano, set out with a party for thatpurpose. But the gentlemen met with so many obstructions from theinhabitants, who were jealous of their penetrating far into thecountry, that they thought proper to return. It is observable, with respect to the volcano of Tanna, that it is noton the ridge of the hill to which it belongs, but on its side. Nor isthat hill the highest in the country, for there are others near it ofmore than double its height. It was in moist and wet weather that thevolcano was most violent. When our commander was ready to sail from Tanna, an event happened, which gave him much concern. Just as our people were getting some logsinto the boat, four or five of the natives stepped forward to see whatthey were doing. In consequence of the Indians not being allowed tocome within certain limits, the sentinel ordered them back, upon whichthey readily complied. At this time, Captain Cook, who had his eyesfixed upon them, observed the sentry present his piece to the men. Thecaptain was going to reprove him for his action, when, to hisinexpressible astonishment, the sentry fired. An attack, so causelessand extraordinary, naturally threw the natives into great confusion. Most of them fled, and it was with difficulty that our commander couldprevail upon a few of them to remain. As they ran off, he perceivedone of them to fall, who was immediately lifted up by two others, whotook him into the water, washed his wound, and then led him off. Thewounded person not being carried far, Captain Cook sent for thesurgeon of the ship, and accompanied him to the man, whom they foundexpiring. The rascal that had fired pretended that an Indian had laidan arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him: so that heapprehended himself to be in danger. This, however, was no more thanwhat the islanders had always done, to shew that they were armed aswell as our voyagers. What rendered, the present incident the moreunfortunate was, that it was not the man who bent the bow, but one whostood near him, that was shot by the sentry. The harbour where the captain anchored, during his stay at Tanna, wascalled by him Port Resolution, after the name of the ship, she beingthe first vessel by which it was ever entered. It is no more than alittle creek, three quarters of a mile in length, and about half thatspace in breadth. No place can exceed it in its convenience for takingin wood and water, which are both close to the shore. The inhabitantof the island, with whom our commander had the most frequent andfriendly connexions, was named Paowang. Very little trade could be carried on with the people of Tanna. Theyhad not the least knowledge of iron; and consequently nails, tools, and other articles made of that metal, and which are so greedilysought for in the more eastern isles, were here of no consideration. Cloth could be of no service to persons who go naked. Among the productions of the island, there is reason to believe thatthe nutmeg-tree might be mentioned. This is collected from thecircumstance of Mr. Forster's having shot a pigeon, in the craw ofwhich a wild nut-meg was discovered. However, though he took somepains to find the tree, his endeavours were not attended with success. It was at first thought by our navigators, that the inhabitants ofTanna were a race between the natives of the Friendly Islands andthose of Mallicollo; but by a short acquaintance with them they wereconvinced, that they had little or no affinity to either, excepting intheir hair. Some few men, women, and children, were seen, whose hairresembled that of the English. With regard, however, to these persons, it was obvious, that they were of another nation; and it wasunderstood that they came from Erronan. Two languages were found to bespoken in Tanna. One of them, which appeared to have been introducedfrom Erronan, is nearly, if not exactly, the same with that of theFriendly islands. The other, which is the proper language of thecountry, and which is judged to be peculiar to Tanna, Erromango, andAnnatom, is different from any that had hitherto been met with by ourvoyagers. The people of Tanna, are of the middle size, and for the most partslender. There are few tall or stout men among them. In general, theyhave good feature and agreeable countenances. Like all the tropicalrace, they are active and nimble; and seem to excel in the use ofarms, but not to be fond of labour. With respect to the management oftheir weapons, Mr. Wales hath made an observation so honourable toHomer, that were I to omit it, I should not be forgiven by myclassical readers. 'I must confess, ' says Mr. Wales. 'I have oftenbeen led to think the feats which Homer represents his heroes asperforming with their spears, a little too much of the marvellous tobe admitted into an heroic poem; I mean when confined within thestrait stays of Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate for him asMr. Pope, acknowledges them to be surprising. But since I have seenwhat these people can do with their wooden spears, and them badlypointed, and not of a hard nature, I have not the least exception toany one passage in that great poet on this account. But if I see fewerexceptions, I can find infinitely more beauties in him; as he has. Ithink, scarcely an action, circumstance, or description of any kindwhatever, relating to a spear, which I have not seen and recognizedamong these people; as their whirling motion, and whistling noise, asthey fly; their quivering motion, as they stick in the ground whenthey fall; their meditating their aim, when they are going to throw;and their shaking them in their hand, as they go along. ' On the 20th of August, Captain Cook sailed from Tanna, and employedall the remainder of the month in a farther examination of the islandsaround him. He had now finished his survey of the whole Archipelago, and had gained a knowledge of it, infinitely superior to what had everbeen attained before. The northern islands of this Archipelago werefirst discovered in 1606, by that eminent navigator Quiros, whoconsidered them as part of the Southern continent, which, at thattime, and till very lately, was supposed to exist. M. De Bougainvillewas the next person by whom they were visited, in 1768. Thisgentleman, however, besides landing in the Isle of Lepers, only madethe discovery, that the country was not connected, but composed ofislands, which he called the Great Cyclades. Captain Cook, besidesascertaining the situation and extent of these islands, added to themseveral new ones, which had hitherto been unknown, and explored thewhole. He thought, therefore, that he had obtained a right to namethem; and accordingly he bestowed upon them the appellation of the_New Hebrides_. His title to this honour will not be disputed inany part of Europe, and certainly not by so enlightened and liberal apeople as the French nation. The season of the year now rendered it necessary for our commander toreturn to the south, while he had yet some time to explore any land hemight meet with between the New Hebrides and New Zealand; at whichlast place he intended to touch, that he might refresh his people, andrenew his stock of wood and water for another southern course. Withthis view, he sailed on the 1st of September, and on the 4th land wasdiscovered; in a harbour belonging to which the Resolution came to ananchor the next day. The design of Captain Cook was not only to visitthe country, but to have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of thesun, which was soon to happen. An intercourse immediately commencedwith the inhabitants, who, during the whole of the captain's stay, behaved in a very civil and friendly manner. In return, he wassolicitous to render them every service in his power. To Teabooma thechief, he sent among other articles, a dog and a bitch, both young, but nearly full grown. It was some time before Teabooma could believethat the two animals were intended for him; but when he was convincedof it, he was lost in an excess of joy. Another, and still morevaluable present, was that of a young boar and sow; which, on accountof the absence of the chief when they were brought to land, werereceived with great hesitation and ceremony. The last time that our commander went on shore at this place, heordered an inscription to be cut on a large tree, setting forth thename of the ship, the date of the year, and other circumstances, whichtestified that the English were the first discoverers of the country. This he had before done, wherever such a ceremony seemed necessary. How the island was called by the natives, our voyagers could neverlearn: and therefore, Captain Cook gave it the name of New Caledonia. The inhabitants are strong, robust, active, and well made. With regardto the origin of the nation, the captain judged them to be a racebetween the people of Tanna and the Friendly Isles; or between thoseof Tanna and the New Zealanders; or all three. Their language is insome respects a mixture of them all. In their disposition they arecourteous and obliging; and they are not in the least addicted topilfering, which is more than can be asserted concerning any othernation in this sea. The women of New Caledonia, and those likewise of Tanna, were found tobe much chaster than the females of the more eastern islands. Ourcommander never heard that the least favour was obtained from them byany one of his company. Sometimes, indeed, the women would exercise alittle coquetry, but they went no farther. The botanists of the ship did not here complain for want ofemployment. They were diligent in their researches, and their labourswere amply rewarded. Every day brought some new accession to botanicalknowledge, or that of other branches of natural history. Every thing being ready to put to sea, Captain Cook weighed anchor onthe 13th of September, with the purpose of examining the coast of NewCaledonia. In pursuing this object, by which he was enabled to addgreatly to nautical and geographical knowledge, the Resolution wasmore than once in danger of being lost, and particularly, in the nightof the 28th of the month, she had a narrow escape. Our navigators, onthis occasion, were much alarmed; and daylight shewed that their fearshad not been ill founded. Indeed, breakers had been continually undertheir lee, and at a small distance from them; so that they were in themost imminent danger. 'We owed our safety, ' says the captain, 'to theinterposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very briskmanner in which the ship was managed. ' Our commander now began to be tired of a coast which he could nolonger explore but at the risk of losing the vessel, and ruining thewhole voyage. He determined, however, not to leave it, till he knew ofwhat kind some groves of trees were, which, by their uncommonappearance, had occasioned much speculation, and had been mistaken, byseveral of the gentlemen, for bisaltes. Captain Cook was the moresolicitous to ascertain the point, as these trees appeared to be of asort, which might be useful to shipping, and had not been seen anywhere, but in the southern parts of New Caledonia. They proved to be aspecies of spruce pine, very proper for spars, which were then wanted. The discovery was valuable, as, excepting New Zealand, there was notan island known, in the South Pacific Ocean, where the ship couldsupply herself with a mast or yard, to whatever distress she might bereduced. It was the opinion of the carpenter of the Resolution, whowas a mastmaker as well as a shipwright, that very good masts might bemade from the trees in question. The wood of them, which is white, close-grained, tough, and light, is well adapted to that purpose. Oneof the small islands where the trees were found, was called by thecaptain the Isle of Pines. To another, on account of its affordingsufficient employment to the botanists, during the little time theystayed upon it, he gave the name of Botany Isle. Captain Cook now took into serious consideration what was farther tobe done. He had pretty well determined the extent of the south-westcoast of New Caledonia, and would gladly have proceeded to a moreaccurate survey of the whole, had he not been deterred, not only bythe dangers he must encounter, but by the time required for theundertaking, and which he could not possibly spare. Indeed, when heconsidered the vast ocean he had to explore to the south; the stateand condition of the ship; the near approach of summer; and that anymaterial accident might detain him in this sea even for another year, he did not think it advisable to make New Caledonia any longer theobject of his attention. But though he was thus obliged, by necessity, for the first time, to leave a coast which he had discovered, beforeit was fully surveyed, he did not quit it till he had ascertained theextent of the country, and proved, that, excepting New Zealand, it wasperhaps the largest island in the Southern Pacific Ocean. As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia, land wasdiscovered, which on a nearer approach, was found to be an island, ofgood height, and five leagues in circuit. Captain Cook named itNorfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It wasuninhabited; and the first persons that ever set foot on it wereunquestionably our English navigators. Various trees and plants wereobserved that are common at New Zealand; and, in particular, the flaxplant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of thatcountry. The chief produce of the island is a kind of spruce pine, exceedingly straight and tall, which grows in great abundance. Such isthe size of many of the trees, that, breast high, they are as thick astwo men can fathom. Among the vegetables of the place, thepalm-cabbage afforded both a wholesome and palatable refreshment; and, indeed, proved the most agreeable repast that our people had for aconsiderable time enjoyed. In addition to this gratification, they hadthe pleasure of procuring some excellent fish. From Norfolk Isle, our commander steered for New Zealand, it being hisintention to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, that he might refreshhis crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southernlatitudes. On the 18th of October, he anchored before Ship Cove inthat sound; and the first thing he did, after landing, was to look forthe bottle he had left on the shore, in which was a memorandum. It wastaken away; and it soon appeared, from indubitable circumstances, thatthe Adventure had been in the cove after it was quitted by theResolution. Upon visiting the gardens which had been formed at Motuara, they werefound almost in a state of nature, having been wholly neglected by theinhabitants. Many, however, of the articles were in a flourishingcondition and shewed how well they liked the soil in which they wereplanted. It was several days before any of the natives made theirappearance; but when they did so, and recognised Captain Cook and hisfriends, joy succeeded to fear. They hurried in numbers out of thewoods, and embraced the English over and over again, leaping andskipping about like madmen. Amidst all this extravagance of joy, theywere careful to preserve the honour of their females; for they wouldnot permit some women, who were seen at a distance, to cone near ourpeople. The captain's whole intercourse with the New Zealanders, during this his third visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was peaceableand friendly; and one of them, a man apparently of consequence, whosename was Pedro, presented him with a staff of honour, such as thechiefs generally carry. In return, our commander dressed Pedro, whohad a fine person, and a good presence, in a suit of old clothes, ofwhich he was not a little proud. Captain Cook still continued his solicitude to stock the island withuseful animals; and accordingly, in addition to what he had formerlydone, he ordered two pigs a boar and sow, to be put on shore. Therewas reason to believe, that some of the cocks and hens which hadformerly been left here still existed. None of them, indeed, wereseen; but a hen's egg was found, which had not been long laid. Mr. Wales had now an opportunity of completing his observations withregard to Queen Charlotte's Sound, so as to ascertain its latitude andlongitude with the utmost accuracy. In the captain's former voyagethere had been an error in this respect. Such were Mr. Wales'sabilities and assiduity, that the same correctness was maintained byhim, in determining the situation of all the other places which werevisited by our navigators. On the 10th of November, Captain Cook took his departure from NewZealand, in farther pursuit of his great object, the determination ofthe question concerning the existence of a southern continent. Havingsailed till the 27th, in different degrees of latitude, extending from43 to 55° 48' south, he gave up all hopes of finding any more land inthis ocean. He came, therefore, to the resolution of steering directlyfor the west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, with a view ofcoasting the south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to theStrait Le Maire. As the world had hitherto obtained but a veryimperfect knowledge of this shore, the captain thought that the fullsurvey of it would be more advantageous, both to navigation andgeography, than any thing he could expect to find in a higherlatitude. In the prosecution of his voyage, our commander, on the 17th ofDecember, reached the west coast of Terra del Fuego; and havingcontinued to range it till the 20th, he came to an anchor in a placeto which he afterwards gave the name of Christmas Sound. Through thewhole course of his various navigations, he had never seen so desolatea coast. It seems to be entirely composed of rocky mountains, withoutthe least appearance of vegetation. These mountains terminate tohorrible precipices, the craggy summits of which spire up to a vastheight; so that scarcely any thing in nature can appear with a morebarren and savage aspect, than the whole of the country. The run which Captain Cook had made directly across the ocean in ahigh southern latitude, was believed by him to be the first of thekind that had ever been carried into execution. He was, therefore, somewhat particular in remarking every circumstance which seemed to bein the least material. However, he could not but observe, that he hadnever made a passage any where, of such length, or even of a muchshorter extent, in which so few things occurred, that were of aninteresting nature. Excepting the variation of the compass, he knew ofnothing else that was worthy of notice. The captain had now done withthe Southern Pacific Ocean; and he had explored it in such a manner, that it would be impossible for any one to think that more could beperformed in a single voyage, towards obtaining that end, than hadactually been accomplished. Barren and dreary as the land is about Christmas Sound, it was notwholly destitute of some accomodations, which could not fail of beingagreeable to our navigators. Near every harbour they found fresh waterand wood for fuel. The country abounds like-wise with wild fowl, andparticularly with geese; which afforded a refreshment to the wholecrew, that was the more acceptable on account of the approachingfestival. Had not Providence thus happily provided for them, theirChristmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork. Some Madeira wine, the only article of provision that was mended by keeping, was stillleft. This in conjunction with the geese, which were cooked in everyvariety of method, enabled our people to celebrate Christmas ascheerfully as perhaps was done by their friends in England. The inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, Captain Cook found to be of thesame nation that he had formerly seen in Success Bay; and the samewhom M. De Bougainville has distinguished by the name of Pecharas. They are a little ugly, half-starved, beardless race, and go almostnaked. It is their own fault that they are no better clothed, naturehaving furnished them with ample materials for that purpose. By liningtheir seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds;by making the cloaks themselves larger; and by applying the samematerials to different parts of clothing, they might render theirdress much more warm and comfortable. But while they are doomed toexist in one of the most inhospitable climates in the globe, they havenot sagacity enough to avail themselves of those means of adding tothe conveniences of life, which Providence has put into their power. In short, the captain, after having been a witness to so manyvarieties of the human race, hath pronounced, that, of all the nationshe had seen, the Pecharas are _the most wretched_. Notwithstanding the barrenness of the country, it abounds with avariety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to thebotanists of the Resolution. 'Almost every plant, ' says Mr. Forster, 'which we gathered on the rocks, was new to us, and some species wereremarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their smell. On the 28th of December, our commander sailed from Christmas Sound, and proceeded on his voyage, round Cape Horn, through Strait le Maire, to Staten Land. This famous Cape was passed by him on the next day, when he entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. In some charts Cape Hornis laid down as belonging to a small island; but this was neitherconfirmed, nor could it be contradicted by our navigators; for severalbreakers appeared in the coast, both to the east and west of it, andthe hazy weather rendered every object very indistinct. Though thesummits of some of the hills were rocky, the sides and valleys seemedcovered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts. In ranging Staten Island, a good port was found, situated threeleagues to the westward of St. John, and in a northern direction. Uponaccount of the day on which the discovery of this port was made (beingthe 1st of January), Captain Cook gave it the name of New Year'sHarbour. The knowledge of it may be of service to future navigators. Indeed, it would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, orround Cape Horn, if its situation would permit them to put to sea withan easterly and northerly wind. But this inconvenience is not of greatconsequence, since these winds are seldom known to be of longduration. The captain, however, has declared that if he were on avoyage round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or water, or any thing which might make it necessary to put into port, he wouldnot approach the land at all. By keeping out at sea the currents wouldbe avoided, which, he was satisfied, would lose their force at ten ortwelve leagues from land, and be totally without influence at agreater distance. The extent of Terra del Fuego, and consequently that of the Straits ofMagalhaens, our commander ascertained to be less than has been laiddown by the generality of navigators. Nor was the coast, upon thewhole, found to be so dangerous as has often been represented. Theweather, at the same time, was remarkably temperate. In one of the little isles near Staten Land, and which had been calledby Captain Cook, New Year's Isles, there was observed a harmonybetween the different animals of the place, which is too curious to beomitted. It seemed as if they had entered into a league not to disturbeach other's tranquillity. The greater part of the sea-coast isoccupied by the sea-lions; the sea-bears take up their abode in theisle; the shags are posted in the highest cliffs; the penguins fixtheir quarters where there is the most easy communication to and fromthe sea; and the rest of the birds choose more retired places. Allthese animals were occasionally seen to mix together, like domesticcattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molestthe other. Nay, the captain had often observed the eagles and vulturessitting on the hills among the shags, while none of the latter, whether old or young, appeared to be in the least disturbed at theirpresence. It may be asked, then, how do these birds of prey live? Thisquestion our commander hath answered, by supposing that they feed onthe carcasses of seals and birds which die by various causes. It isprobable, from the immense quantity of animals with which this isleabounds, that such carcasses exist in great numbers. From Staten island, Captain Cook sailed, on the 4th of January, with aview, in the first place, of discovering that extensive coast, laiddown by Mr. Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the gulf of St. Sebastian: In order to have all other parts before him, the captaindesigned to make the western point of that gulf. As he had some doubtof the existence of such a coast, this appeared to him the best routefor determining the matter, and for exploring the southern part ofthis ocean. When he came to the situations assigned to the differentpoints of the gulf of St. Sebastian, neither land nor any unequivocalsigns of land were discovered. On the contrary, it was evident, thatthere could not be any extensive tract of country in the directionwhich had been supposed. Proceeding in his voyage, land was seen on the 14th, which was atfirst mistaken for an island of ice. It was in a manner wholly coveredwith snow. From the person by whom it was first discovered, itobtained the name of Wallis's Island. It is a high rock, of no greatextent, near to which are some rocky islets. Another island, of alarger compass, on account of the vast number of birds which were uponit, was called Bird Isle. A more extensive range of country had beenseen for some time which Captain Cook reached on the 17th, and wherehe landed, on the same day, in three different places. The head of thebay, in which he came to shore, was terminated by particular icecliffs, of considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off, and floating out to sea; and while our navigators were in the bay, agreat fall happened, which made a noise like a cannon. No less savageand horrible were the inner parts of the country. The wild rocksraised their summits till they were lost in the clouds, and thevalleys lay covered with everlasting snow. There was not a tree to beseen, or a shrub found, that was even big enough to make a tooth-pick. The only vegetation, that was met with, was a coarse strong-bladedgrass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, whichsprang from the rocks. When our commander landed in the bay, he displayed the Englishcolours; and, under a discharge of small arms, took possession of thecountry in his majesty's name. It was not, however, a discovery whichwas ever likely to be productive of any considerable benefit. In hisreturn to the ship, Captain Cook brought with him a quantity of sealsand penguins, which were an acceptable present to the crew; not fromthe want of provisions, which were plentiful in every kind, but from achange of diet. Any sort of fresh meat was preferred by most on boardto salt. The captain himself was now, for the first time, tired of thesalted meats of the ship; and though the flesh of the penguins couldscarcely vie with bullock's liver, its freshness was sufficient torender it comparatively agreeable to the palate. To the bay in whichhe had been, he gave, the name of Possession Bay. The land in which this bay lies, was at first judged by our navigatorsto be part of a great continent. But, upon coasting round the wholecountry, it was proved to a demonstration that it was only an islandof seventy leagues in circuit. In honour of his majesty, Captain Cookcalled it the Isle of Georgia. It could scarcely have been thought, that an island of no greater extent than this, situated between thelatitude of fifty-four and fifty-five, should, in a manner, be whollycovered, many fathoms deep, with frozen snow, in the height of summer. The sides and summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow andice; and an incredible quantity lay in the valleys. So immense was thequantity that our commander did not think that it could he the produceof the island. Some land, therefore, which he had seen at a distance, induced him to believe, that it might belong to an extensive tract, and gave him hopes of discovering a continent. In this respect, however, he was disappointed; but the disappointment did not sit heavyupon him; since, to judge of the bulk by the apprehended sample, itwould not have been worth the discovery. It was remarkable, that ourvoyagers did not see a river, or a stream of fresh water, on the wholecoast of the Isle of Georgia. Captain Cook judged it to be highlyprobable, that there are no perennial springs in the country; and thatthe interior parts, in consequence of their being much elevated, neverenjoy heat enough to melt the snow in sufficient quantities to producea river or stream of water. In sailing round the island, ournavigators were almost continually involved in a thick mist; so that, for any thing they knew to the contrary, they might be surrounded withdangerous rocks. The captain on the 25th of the month, steered from the Isle ofGeorgia, and, on the 27th, computed that he was in latitude sixty, south. Farther than this he did not intend to go, unless some certainsigns of soon meeting with land should be discovered. There was now along hollow swell from the west, which was a strong indication that noland was to be met with in that direction; and hence arose anadditional proof of what has already been remarked, that the extensivecoast laid down in Mr. Dalrymple's chart of the ocean between Africaand America and the Gulf of St. Sebastian, doth not exist. Not tomention the various islands which were seen in the prosecution of thevoyage, and the names that were given to them, I shall only advert toa few of the more material circumstances. On an elevated coast, whichappeared in sight upon the 31st; our commander bestowed theappellation of the Southern Thule. The reason of his giving it thisname was, that it is the most southern land that had ever yet beendiscovered. It is everywhere covered with snow; and displays a surfaceof vast height. On this day our voyagers were in no small danger froma great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore, and threatenedto carry them on the most horrible coast in the world. Happily, thediscovery of a point to the north, beyond which no land could be seen, relieved them from their apprehensions. To the more distinguishedtracts of country, which were discovered from the 31st of January tothe 6th of February, Captain Cook gave the names of Cape Bristol, CapeMontagu, Saunder's Isle, Candlemas Isles, and Sandwich's Land. Thelast is either a group of islands, or else a point of the continent. For that there is a tract of land near the pole, which is the sourceof most of the ice that is spread over this vast Southern Ocean, wasthe captain's firm opinion. He also thought it probable, that thisland must extend farthest to the north, where it is opposite to theSouthern Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Ice had always been found by himfarther to the north in these oceans, than any where else, and this hejudged could not be the case, if there were not land of considerableextent to the south. However, the greatest part of this southerncontinent, if it actually exists, must lie within the polar circle, where the sea is so encumbered with ice, that the land is renderedinaccessible. So great is the risk which is run, in examining a coastin these unknown and icy seas, that our commander, with a modest andwell grounded boldness, could assert, that no man would ever venturefarther than he had done; and that the lands which may lie to thesouth will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow storms, intense cold, and every thing besides, that can render navigation dangerous, must beencountered; all which difficulties are greatly heightened by theinexpressibly horrid aspect of the country. It is a country doomed bynature never once to feet the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lieburied in everlasting snow and ice. Whatever ports there may be on thecoast, they are almost entirely covered with frozen snow of a vastthickness. If however, any one of them should be so far open as toinvite a ship into it, she would run the risk of being fixed there forever, or of coming out in an ice island. To this it may be added, thatthe islands and floats on the coast, the great falls from the icecliffs in the port, or a heavy snow storm, attended with a sharpfrost, might be equally fatal. Nothing could exceed the inclination of Captain Cook, if it had beenpracticable, to penetrate farther to the south: but difficulties likethese were not to be surmounted. If he had risked all that had beendone during the voyage, for the sake of discovering and exploring acoast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no endwhatever, or have been of the least use either to navigation orgeography, or indeed to any other science, he would justly have beencharged with inexcusable temerity. He determined, therefore, to alterhis course to the east, and to sail in quest of Bouvet's Land, theexistence of which was yet to be settled. Accordingly, this was theprincipal object of his pursuit, from the 6th to the 22nd of themonth. By that day he had run down thirteen degrees of longitude, inthe very latitude assigned for Bouvet's Land. No such land, however, was discovered; nor did any proofs occur of the existence of CapeCircumcision. Our commander was at this time no more than two degreesof longitude from the route he had taken to the south, when be leftthe Cape of Good Hope. It would, therefore, have been to no purpose toproceed any farther to the east in this parallel. But being desirousof determining the question concerning some land that was supposed tohave been seen more to the south, he directed his course for thesituation in which the discovery of it might be expected. Two dayswere spent by him in this pursuit, to no effectual purpose. Afterhaving run over the place where the land was imagined to lie, withoutmeeting with the least signs of any, it became certain that the iceislands had deceived our navigators, as well as Mr. Bouvet. Captain Cook had row made the circuit of the southern ocean in a highlatitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the leastroom for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near thepole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting thetropical sea, he had not only settled the situation of some olddiscoveries, but made many new ones; and, indeed, even in that part, had left little more to be accomplished. The intention of the voyagehad, in every respect, been fully answered, and the southernhemisphere sufficiently explored. A final end was hereby put to thesearching after a southern continent, which, for nearly two centuriespast had occasionally engrossed the attention of some of the maritimepowers, and had been urged with great ardour by philosophers andgeographers in different ages. The great purpose of his navigation round the globe being thuscompleted, the captain began to direct his views towards England. Hehad, indeed, some thoughts of protracting his course a little longer, for the sake of revisiting the place where the French discovery issaid to be situated. But, upon mature deliberation, he determined tolay aside his intention. He considered, that if this discovery hadreally been made, the end would be as fully answered, as if it hadbeen done by himself. It could only be an island; and, if a judgmentmight be formed from the degree of cold which our voyagers hadexperienced in that latitude, it could not be a fertile one. Besides, our commander would hereby have been kept two months longer at sea, and that in a tempestuous latitude, with which the ship was not in acondition to struggle. Her sails and rigging were so much worn, thatsomething was giving way every hour; and there was nothing left, either to repair or to replace them. The provisions of the vessel werein such a state of decay, that they afforded little nourishment, andthe company had been long without refreshments. Indeed, the crew wereyet healthy, and would cheerfully have gone wherever the captain hadjudged it proper to lead them; but he was fearful, lest the scurvyshould lay hold of them, at a time, when none of the remedies wereleft by which it could be removed. He thought, likewise, that it wouldhave been cruel in him to have continued the fatigues and hardshipsthey were perpetually exposed to, longer than was absolutelynecessary. Throughout the whole voyage, they had merited by theirbehaviour every indulgence which it was in his power to bestow. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they had shewn that nodifficulties or dangers which came in their way were incapable ofbeing surmounted; nor had their activity, courage, and cheerfulnessbeen in the least abated by the separation from them of their consortthe Adventure. From all these considerations, which were evidently the dictates ofwisdom and humanity, Captain Cook was induced to spend no longer timein searching for the French discoveries, but to steer for the Cape ofGood Hope. He determined, however, to direct his course in such amanner, as to look for the Isles of Denia and Marseveen, which arelaid down in Dr. Halley's variation chart. After sailing in the properlatitudes from the 25th of February to the 13th of March, no suchislands were discovered. Nothing, indeed, had been seen that couldencourage our voyagers to persevere in a search after them; and muchtime could not now be spared, either for the purpose of finding them, or of proving their non-existence. Every one on board was for goodreasons impatient to get into port. The captain, therefore, could nolonger avoid yielding to the general wishes, and resolving to proceedto the Cape without further delay. Soon after our commander had come to this determination, he demandedof the officers and petty officers, in pursuance of his instructions, the log books and journals they had kept; which were delivered to himaccordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. Heenjoined them also, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they hadbeen, till they were permitted to do so by their lordships; aninjunction, a compliance with which might probably be renderedsomewhat difficult, from the natural tendency there is in men, torelate the extraordinary enterprises and adventures wherein they havebeen concerned. As the Resolution approached towards the Cape of Good Hope, she fellin first with a Dutch East Indiaman from Bengal, commanded by CaptainBosch; and next with an English Indiaman, being the True Briton, fromChina, of which Captain Broadly was the commander. Mr. Bosch veryobligingly offered to our navigators sugar, arrack, and whatever hehad to spare; and Captain Broadly, with the most ready generosity, sent them fresh provisions, tea, and various articles which could notfail of being peculiarly acceptable to people in their situation. Evena parcel of old news-papers furnished no slight gratification topersons who had so long been deprived of obtaining any intelligenceconcerning their country and the state of Europe. From these vesselsCaptain Cook received some information with regard to what hadhappened to the Adventure after her separation from the Resolution. On Wednesday, the 22nd of March, [9] he anchored in Table Bay; where hefound several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, an English EastIndiaman, bound directly for England, under the command of CaptainNewte. By this gentleman he sent a copy of the preceding part of hisjournal, some charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty. [Footnote 9: With our navigators who had sailed round the world, it was Wednesday, the 22nd of March; but at the Cape of Good Hope it was Tuesday the 21st. ] During the circumnavigation of the globe, from the period of ourcommander's leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his return to it again, he had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues. This was an extentof voyage nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference ofthe earth, and which had never been accomplished before, by any ship, in the same compass of duration. In such a case, it could not be amatter of surprise, that the rigging and sails of the Resolutionshould be essentially damaged, and even worn out, and yet, in all thisgreat run, which had been made in every latitude between nine andseventy-one, she did not spring either lowmast, topmast, lower ortopsail yard; nor did she so much as break a lower or topmast shroud. These happy circumstances were owing to the good properties of thevessel, and the singular care and abilities of her officers. On the remainder of the voyage it is not necessary to enlarge. Thoughit was conducted with the same attention to navigation and geography, and with the same sagacity in marking whatever was worthy ofobservation, nevertheless, as it was not employed in traversingunknown seas, or in discovering countries that had not been heard ofbefore, it may be sufficient briefly to mention the places at whichCaptain Cook touched before his arrival in England. The repairs of theship having been completed, and the necessary stores gotten on board, together with a fresh supply of provisions and water, he left the Capeof Good Hope on the 27th of April, and reached the Island of St. Helena on the 15th of May. Here he staid till the 21st, when he sailedfor the Island of Ascension, where he anchored on the 28th. From thisplace he directed his course, on the 31st, for the Island of Fernandode Noronha, at which he arrived on the 9th of June. In the progress of the voyage, our commander made an experiment uponthe still for procuring fresh water; and the result of the trial was, that the invention is useful upon the whole, but that to trustentirely to it would by no means be advisable. Indeed, provided thereis not a scarcity of fuel, and the coppers are good, as much water maybe obtained as will support life; but no efforts will be able toprocure a quantity sufficient for the preservation of health, especially in hot climates. Captain Cook was convinced by experience, that nothing contributes more to the health of seamen, than havingplenty of water. On the 14th of July, the captain came to anchor in the Bay of Fayal, one of the Azores islands. His sole design in stopping here was togive Mr. Wales an opportunity of finding the rate of the watch, thathereby he might be enabled to fix the longitude of these island withthe greater degree of certainty. No sooner, therefore, had ourcommander anchored, than he sent an officer to wait on the Englishconsul, and to acquaint the governor with the arrival of ournavigators, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to makeobservations on shore, for the purpose now mentioned. Mr. Dent, whothen acted as consul, not only obtained this permission, butaccommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden, to setup his instruments. This object being accomplished, Captain Cook proceeded on the 19th, with all expedition for England. On the 30th of the same month, heanchored at Spithead, and landed at Portsmouth; having been absentfrom Great Britain three years and eighteen days, in which time, andunder all changes of climate, he had lost but four men, and only oneof them by sickness. CHAPTER V. Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his Second Voyageand his Voyage to the Pacific Ocean. The able manner in which Captain Cook had conducted the precedingvoyage, the discoveries he had made, and his complete determination ofthe grand point he had been sent to ascertain, justly and powerfullyrecommended him to the protection and encouragement of all those whohad patronized the undertaking. No alterations had occurred, duringhis absence, in the presidency of the admiralty department. The noblelord, whose extensive views had taken such a lead in the plans ofnavigation and discovery, still continued at the head of that board;and it could not be otherwise than a high satisfaction to him, that soextraordinary a degree of success had attended his designs for theenlargement of science. His lordship lust no time in representingCaptain Cook's merits to the king; nor did his majesty stand in needof solicitations to shew favour to a man, who had so eminentlyfulfilled his royal and munificent intentions. Accordingly ournavigator, on the 9th of August, was raised to the rank of a postcaptain. Three days afterwards, he received a more distinguished andsubstantial mark of the approbation of government: for he was thenappointed a captain in Greenwich Hospital; a situation which wasintended to afford him a pleasing and honourable reward for hisillustrious labours and services. It will easily be supposed, that the lovers of science would, ingeneral, be peculiarly attentive to the effects resulting from CaptainCook's discoveries. The additions he had made to the knowledge ofgeography, navigation, and astronomy, and the new views he had openedof the diversified state of human life and manners, could not avoidcommanding their esteem, and exciting their admiration. With manypersons of philosophic literature he was in the habits of intimacy andfriendship; he was particularly acquainted with Sir John Pringle, atthat time president of the Royal Society. It was natural, therefore, that his scientific friends should wish him to become a member of thislearned body; the consequence of which was, that, in the latter end ofthe year 1775, he was proposed as a candidate for election. On the29th of February, 1776, he was unanimously chosen; and he was admittedon the 7th of March. That same evening, a paper was read, which he hadaddressed to Sir John Pringle, containing an account of the method hehad taken to preserve the health of the crew of his majesty's ship theResolution, during her voyage round the world. Another paper, at therequest of the president, was communicated by him on the 18th ofApril. Relative to the tides in the South Seas. The tides particularlyconsidered were those in the Endeavour River, on the east coast of NewHolland. A still greater honour was in reserve for Captain Cook, than theelection of him to be a common member of the Royal Society. It wasresolved by Sir John Pringle and the council of the society, to bestowupon him the estimable prize of the gold medal, for the bestexperimental paper, of the year; and no determination could be foundedto greater wisdom and justice. If Captain Cook had made no importantdiscoveries, if he had not determined the question concerning asouthern continent, his name would have been entitled to immortality, on account of his humane attention to, and his unparalleled success inpreserving the lives and health of his seamen. He had good reason, upon this head, to assume the pleasurable, butmodest language, with which he has concluded his narrative of hissecond navigation round the globe: 'Whatever, ' says he, 'may be thepublic judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, andwithout claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that Ican, conclude this account with an observation, which facts enable usto make, that our having discovered the possibility of preservinghealth among a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, insuch varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships andfatigues, will make this voyage remarkable, in the opinion of everybenevolent person, when the disputes about the southern continentshall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgmentof philosophers. ' It was the custom, of Sir John Pringle, at the delivery of Sir GodfreyCopley's annual medal, to give an elaborate discourse, containing thehistory of that part of science for the improvement of which the medalwas conferred. Upon the present occasion, the president had a subjectto enlarge upon, which was perfectly congenial to his disposition andstudies. His own life had been much employed in pointing out the meanswhich tended not only to cure, but to prevent, the diseases ofmankind; and, therefore, it was with peculiar pleasure and affectionthat he celebrated the conduct of his friend, who, by precautionsequally wise and simple, had rendered the circumnavigation of theglobe, so far as health is concerned, quite a harmless undertaking. Towards the beginning of his discourse, Sir John justly asks, 'Whatinquiry can be so useful as that which hath for its object the savingthe lives of men? and when shall we find one more successful than thatbefore us? Here, ' adds the president, 'are no vain boastings of theempiric, nor ingenious and delusive theories of the dogmatist; but aconcise and artless, and an incontested relation of the means bywhich, under divine favour, Captain Cook, with a company of a hundredand eighteen men, performed a voyage of three years and eighteen days, throughout all the climates, from fifty-two degrees north toseventy-one degrees south, with the loss of only one man by sickness. I would now inquire. ' proceeds Sir John Pringle, 'of the mostconversant to the study of bills of mortality, whether, in the mosthealthful climate, and in the best condition of life, they have everfound so small a number of deaths within that space of time? How greatand agreeable then must our surprise be, after perusing the historiesof long navigations in former days, when so many perished by marinediseases, to find the air of the sea acquitted of all malignity; and, in fine, that a voyage round the world may be undertaken with lessdanger, perhaps, to health, than a common tour in Europe!' In the progress of his discourse; the president recounted the dreadfulcalamities and destruction the scurvy had heretofore brought uponmariners in voyages of great length; after which he pointed out atlarge, and illustrated with his own observations, the methods pursuedby Captain Cook for preserving the health of his men. In conclusion, Sir John remarked, that the Royal Society never more cordially or moremeritoriously bestowed the gold medal, that faithful symbol of theiresteem and affection. 'For if, ' says he, 'Rome decreed the civic crownto him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths are due tothat man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in yourtransactions the means by which Britain may now, on the most distantvoyages, preserve numbers of her intrepid sons, her _mariners_;who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire of their country!'[10] [Footnote 10: Sir John Pringle's Six Discourses, p. 145-147, 199. --It cannot but be acceptable to insert here Captain Cook's enumeration of the several causes to which, under the care of Providence, the uncommon good state of health, experienced by his people, was owing. I shall not trespass upon the reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were found the most useful. 'We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made _sweet wort_. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms of the scurvy, and also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder, this was given, from one to two or three pints a day each man; or in such proportion as the surgeon found necessary, which sometimes amounted to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best antiscorbutic sea medicines yet discovered; and if used in time, will, with proper attention to other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from making any great progress for a considerable while. But I am not altogether of opinion that it will cure it at sea. '_Sour krout_, of which we had a large quantity; is not only a wholesome vegetable food, but in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic; and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man, when at sea, twice a week, or oftener, as was thought necessary. '_Portable broth_ was another great article of which we had a large supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their pease, three days in the week; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, ever morning for breakfast; and also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several nourishing and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have done. '_Rob of lemon and orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not without. The surgeon made use of it in many cases with great success. 'Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with _sugar_ in the room of _oil_, and with _wheat_ for a part of our _oatmeal_; and were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very good antiscorbutic; whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied with), I am of opinion, has the contrary effect. 'But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years' experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was to be governed. 'The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather, as if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally dry clothes to shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to expose them as little to wet weather as possible. 'Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, clothes, &c. Constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired with fires; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with gunpowder, mixed with vinegar and water. I had also, frequently, a fire made in an iron pot at the bottom of the well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this, and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great attention cannot he paid; the least neglect occasions a putrid and disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove. 'Proper attention was paid to the ships coppers, so that they were kept constantly clean. 'The fat, which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never suffered to be given to the people; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. 'I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we did not want it. Because I look upon fresh water from the shore to be more wholesome than that which has been kept some time on board a ship. Of this essential article we were never at an allowance, but had always plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general cannot, indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with such advantages in this respect, as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into very high latitudes. But the hardships and dangers, inseparable from that situation, were in some degree compensated by the singular felicity we enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an ocean strewed with ice. 'We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty of nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of any kind could be met with, by every means in my power; and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my example and authority; but the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind soon became so obvious, that I had little occasion to recommend the one to exert the other. ' In a letter which Captain Cook wrote to Sir John Pringle, just before he embarked on his last voyage, dated Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776, he expressed himself as follows: 'I entirely agree with you, that the dearness of the rob of lemons and of oranges will hinder them from being furnished in large quantities. But I do not think this so necessary; for, though they may assist other things, I have no great opinion of them alone. Nor have I a higher opinion of vinegar. My people had it very sparingly during the late voyage, and, towards the latter part none at all; and yet we experienced no ill effect from the want of it. The custom of washing the inside of the ship with vinegar, I seldom observed; thinking that fire and smoke answered the purpose much better. '] One circumstance alone was wanting to complete the pleasure andcelebrity arising from the assignment of Sir Godfrey Copley's medal. Captain Cook was not himself present, to hear the discourse of thepresident, and to receive the honour conferred upon him. Some monthsbefore the anniversary of St. Andrew's day, he had sailed on his lastexpedition. The medal, therefore, was delivered into the hands of Mrs. Cook, whose satisfaction at being intrusted with so valuable a pledgeof her husband's reputation cannot be questioned. Neither can it bedoubted, but that the captain, before his departure from England, wasfully apprized of the mark of distinction which was intended for himby the Royal Society. Captain Cook, after the conclusion of his second voyage, was calledupon to appear in the world in the character of an author. In theaccount that was published, by authority, of his formercircumnavigation of the globe, as well as of those which had beenperformed by the Captains Byron, Cateret, and Wallis, it was thoughtrequisite to procure the assistance of a professed literary man, whosebusiness it should be to draw up a narrative from the several journalsof these commanders. Accordingly, Dr. Hawkesworth, as is universallyknown, was employed for the purpose. In the present case, it was notesteemed necessary to have recourse to such an expedient. Captain Cookwas justly regarded as sufficiently qualified to relate his own story. His journal only required to be divided into chapters, and perhaps tobe amended by a few verbal corrections. It is not speakingextravagantly to say, that in point of composition, his history of hisvoyage reflects upon him no small degree of credit. His style isnatural, clear, and manly; being well adapted to the subject and tohis own character: and it is possible that a pen of more studiedelegance would not have given any additional advantage to thenarration. It was not till some time after Captain Cook's leavingEngland that the work was published; but, in the meanwhile, thesuperintendence of it was undertaken by his learned and valuablefriend, Dr. Douglas, whose late promotion to the mitre hath affordedpleasure to every literary man, of every denomination. When the Voyageappeared it came recommended by the accuracy and excellence of itscharts, and by a great variety of engravings, from the curious andbeautiful drawings of Mr. Hodges. This work was followed by thepublication of the original astronomical observations, which had beenmade by Mr. Wales in the Resolution, and by Mr. Bayley in theAdventure. It was at the expense of the commissioners of longitudethat these observations were made, and it was by their order that theywere printed. The book of Mr. Wales and Mr. Bayley displays, in thestrongest light, the scientific use and value of Captain Cook'svoyage. Some of the circumstances which have now been mentioned havedesignedly been brought forward more early in point of time thanshould otherwise have been done, in order to prevent any interruptionin the course of the subsequent narrative. Though Captain Cook was expected to, sit down in repose, after histoils and labours, the design of farther discoveries was not laidaside. The illusion, indeed of a _Terra Australis incognita_, toany purposes of commerce, colonization, and utility, had beendispelled: but there was another grand question which remained to bedetermined; and that was the practicability of a northern passage tothe Pacific Ocean. It had long been a favourite object with navigators, and particularlywith the English, to discover a shorter, a more commodious, and a moreprofitable course of sailing to Japan and China, and, indeed, to theEast Indies in general, than by making the tedious circuit of the Capeof Good Hope. To find a western passage round North America had beenattempted by several bold adventurers, from Frobisher's first voyage, in 1576, to those of James and of Fox, in 1631. By these expeditions alarge addition was made to the knowledge of the northern extent ofAmerica, and Hudson's and Baffin's Bays were discovered. But thewished-for passage, on that side, into the Pacific Ocean, was stillunattained. Nor were the various attempts of our countrymen, and ofthe Dutch, to find such a passage, by sailing round the north of Asia, in an eastern direction, attended with better success. Wood's failurein 1676, appears to have concluded the long list of unfortunateexpeditions in that century. The discovery, if not absolutelydespaired of, had been unsuccessful in such a number of instances, that it ceased for many years, to be an object of pursuit. The question was again revived in the present century. Mr. Dobbs, awarm advocate for the probability of a north-west passage throughHudson's Bay, once more recalled the attention of this country to thatundertaking. In consequence of the spirit by him excited, CaptainMiddleton was sent out by government, in 1741, and Captains Smith andMore, in 1746. But though an act of Parliament had been passed, whichsecured a reward of twenty thousand pounds to the discovery of apassage, the accomplishment of this favourite object continued at asgreat a distance as ever. To ascertain a matter of such importance and magnitude in navigation, was reserved to be another glory of his present majesty's reign. Theidea was peculiarly suited to the enlightened mind of the noble lordat the head of the admiralty, and he adopted it with ardour. Preparatory to the execution of the design, Lord Mulgrave sailed withtwo ships, to determine how far navigation was practicable towards thenorth pole. In this expedition, his lordship met with the sameinsuperable difficulties which had been experienced by formervoyagers. Nevertheless, the expectation of opening a communicationbetween the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, by a northerly course, wasnot abandoned; and it was resolved that a voyage should be undertakenfor that purpose. For the conduct of an enterprise, the operations of which wereintended to be so new, so extensive, and so various, it was evidentthat great ability, skill, and experience were indispensablynecessary. That Captain Cook was of all men the best qualified forcarrying it into execution was a matter that could not be called inquestion. But, however ardently it might be wished that he would takeupon him the command of the service, no one (not even his friend andpatron Lord Sandwich himself) presumed to solicit him upon thesubject. The benefits he had already conferred on science andnavigation, and the labours and dangers he had gone through were somany and great, that it was not deemed reasonable to ask him to engagein fresh perils. At the same time, nothing could be more natural, thanto consult him upon every thing relative to the business; and hisadvice was particularly requested with regard to the properest personfor conducting the voyage. To determine this point, the captain, SirHugh Palliser, and Mr. Stephens, were invited to Lord Sandwich's todinner. Here, besides taking into consideration what officer should berecommended to his majesty for accomplishing the purposes in view, many things were said concerning the nature of the design. Itsgrandeur and dignity, the consequences of it to navigation andscience, and the completion it would give to the whole system ofdiscoveries, were enlarged upon in the course of the conversation. Captain Cook was so fired with the contemplation and representation ofthe object, that he started up, and declared, that he himself wouldundertake the direction of the enterprise. It is easy to suppose, withwhat pleasure the noble lord, and the other gentlemen, received aproposal, which was so agreeable to their secret wishes, and whichthey thought of the highest importance towards attaining the ends ofthe voyage. No time was lost by the Earl of Sandwich, in laying thematter before the king; and Captain Cook was appointed to the commandof the expedition, on the 10th of February, 1776. At the same time, itwas agreed that on his return to England, he should be restored to hissituation at Greenwich; and, if no vacancy occurred during theinterval, the officer who succeeded him was to resign in his favour. The command and the direction of the enterprise being thus happilysettled, it became an object of great importance to determine whatmight be the best course that could be given to the voyage. All formernavigators round the globe had returned to Europe by the Cape of GoodHope. But to Captain Cook the arduous task was now assigned, ofattempting it by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia andAmerica; and the adoption of this resolution was, I believe, theresult of his own reflections upon the subject. The usual plan, therefore, of discovery was reversed; so that instead of a passagefrom the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the formerwas to be tried. Whatever openings or inlets there might be on theeast side of America, that lie in a direction which could afford anyhopes of a passage, it was wisely foreseen, that the ultimate successof the expedition would depend upon there being an open sea betweenthe west side of that continent and the extremities of Asia. Accordingly Captain Cook was ordered to proceed into the PacificOcean, through the chain of the new islands which had been visited byhim in the southern tropic. After having crossed the equator into thenorthern parts of that ocean, he was then to hold such a course asmight probably fix many interesting points in geography, and produceintermediate discoveries, in his progress northward to the principalscene of his operations. With regard to his grand object, it wasdetermined, for the wisest reasons, and after the most maturedeliberation and inquiry, that upon his arrival on the coast of NewAlbion, he should proceed northward as far as the latitude of 65°, andnot lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any otheraccount, until he had gotten into that latitude. To give every possible encouragement to the prosecution of the greatdesign in view, the motives of interest were added to the obligationsof duty. In the act of parliament which passed in 1745, the reward oftwenty thousand pounds had been only held out to the ships_belonging to any of his majesty's subjects_, while his majesty'sown ships were excluded. Another, and more capital defect in this actwas, that it confined the reward to such ships alone as shoulddiscover a passage though Hudson's Bay. By a new law, which passed in1776, both these deficiencies were effectually remedied. It was nowenacted, --'That if any ship, belonging to any of his majesty'ssubjects, or _to his majesty_, shall find out, and sail throughany passage by sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans; in _anydirection_, or parallel of the northern hemisphere, to thenorthward of the 52° of northern latitude, the owners of such ships, if belonging to any of his majesty's subject, or _the commander, officers, and seamen of such ship belonging to his majesty_, shallreceive, as a reward for such discovery, the sum of twenty thousandpounds. ' That every thing might be done which could facilitate the success ofthe grand expedition, Lieutenant Pickersgill was sent out, in 1776, with directions to explore the coast of Baffin's Bay; and in the nextyear, Lieutenant Young was commissioned not only to examine thewestern parts of that bay, but to endeavour to find a passage on thatside, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Nothing was performed byeither of these gentlemen that promoted the purposes of Captain Cook'svoyage. Two vessels were fixed upon by government for the intended service;the Resolution and the Discovery. The command of the former was givento Captain Cook, and of the other to Captain Clerke. To the Resolutionwas assigned the same complement of officers and men which she hadduring her preceding voyage; and the only difference in theestablishment of the Discovery from that of the Adventure, was in thesingle instance of her having no marine officer on board. From the time of the two ships being put into commission, the greatestdegree of attention and zeal, was exerted by the Earl of Sandwich andthe rest of the board of admiralty, to have them equipped in the mostcomplete manner. Both the vessels were supplied with as much of everynecessary article as could conveniently be stowed, and with the bestof each kind that could be procured. Whatever, likewise, theexperience of the former voyages had shewn to be of any utility inpreserving the health of seamen, was provided in large abundance. Thatsome permanent benefit might be conveyed to the inhabitants ofOtaheite, and of the other islands of the Pacific Ocean, whom ournavigators might happen to visit, it was graciously commanded by hismajesty, that an assortment of useful animals should be carried out tothose countries. Accordingly, a bull, two cows with their calves, andseveral sheep, with hay and corn for their subsistence, were taken onboard; and it was intended to add other serviceable animals to these, when Captain Cook should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. With thesame benevolent purposes, the captain was furnished with a sufficientquantity, of such of our European garden seeds, as could not fail ofbeing a valuable present to the newly discovered islands, by addingfresh supplies of food to their own vegetable productions. By order ofthe board of admiralty, many articles besides were delivered to ourcommander, which were calculated, in various ways, to improve thecondition of the natives of the other hemisphere. Still farther topromote a friendly intercourse with them, and to carry on a trafficthat might be profitable on both sides, an ample assortment wasprovided of iron tools and trinkets. An attention no less humane wasextended to the wants of our own people. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for the crews of the two ships;and nothing was denied to our navigators that could be supposed to bein the least conducive to their health, or even to their convenience. It was not to these things only, that the extraordinary care of LordSandwich, and of the other gentlemen at the head of the navaldepartment, was confined. They were equally solicitous to afford everyassistance that was calculated to render the expedition of publicutility. Several astronomical and nautical instruments were entrusted, by the board of longitude, to Captain Cook, and Mr. King his secondlieutenant; who had undertaken to make the necessary observations, during the voyage, for the improvement of astronomy and navigation. Itwas originally intended that a professed observator should be sent outin the Resolution; but the scientific abilities of the captain and hislieutenant rendered the appointment of such a person absolutelyunnecessary. The case was somewhat different with regard to theDiscovery. Mr. William Bayley, who had already given satisfactoryproofs of his skill and diligence as an observator, while he wasemployed in Captain Furneaux's ship, during the late voyage wasengaged a second time in that capacity, and appointed to sail on boardCaptain Clerke's vessel. The department of natural history wasassigned to Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who was aswilling, as he was well qualified, to describe every thing in thatbranch of science which should occur worthy of notice. From theremarks of this gentleman, Captain Cook had derived considerableassistance in his last navigation; especially with regard to the verycopious vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, and the comparativespecimen of the languages of the other islands which had then beenvisited. There were several young men among our commander's seaofficers, who, under his direction, could be usefully employed inconstructing charts, in taking views of the coasts and headlands nearwhich our voyagers might pass, and in drawing plans of the bays andharbours in which they should anchor. Without a constant attention tothis object the captain was sensible, that his discoveries could notbe rendered profitable to future navigators. That he might go out withevery help, which could serve to make the result of the voyageentertaining to the generality of readers, as well as instructive tothe sailor and the scholar. Mr. Webber was fixed upon, and engaged toembark in the Resolution, for the express purpose of supplying theunavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by enabling our peopleto preserve and to bring home, such drawings of the most memorablescenes of their transactions, as could only be executed by a professedand skilful artist. As the last mark of the extraordinary attention which the Earl ofSandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the board of admiralty haduniformly shewn to the preparations for the expedition, they went downto Long Reach, and paid a visit to the ships, on the 8th of June, toexamine whether everything was completed conformably to theirintentions and orders, and to the satisfaction of all who were toembark in the voyage. His lordship and the rest of the admiraltyboard, together with several noblemen and gentlemen of theiracquaintance, honoured Captain Cook, on that day, with their companyat dinner. Both upon their coming on board, and their going ashore, they were saluted with seventeen guns, and with three cheers. As the ships were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands, it hadbeen determined not to omit the only opportunity which might everoffer of carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, heleft London, on the 24th of June, in company with Captain Cook; and itwas with a mixture of regret and satisfaction that he took hisdeparture. When England, and those who during the stay, had honouredhim with their protection or friendship, were spoken of, his spiritswere sensibly affected, and it was with difficulty that he couldrefrain from tears. But his eyes began to sparkle with joy, as soon asever the conversation was turned to his own islands. The goodtreatment he received in England had made a deep impression upon hismind; and he entertained the highest ideas of the country and of thepeople. Nevertheless, the pleasing prospect he had before him ofreturning home, loaded with what, he well knew, would there beesteemed invaluable treasures, and the flattering hope, which thepossession of these afforded him, of attaining a distinguishedsuperiority among his countrymen, were considerations which operated, by degrees, to suppress every uneasy sensation. By the time he hadgotten on board the ship, he appeared to be quite happy. His majesty had furnished Omai with an ample provision of everyarticle which our English navigators, during their former intercoursewith Otaheite and the Society Islands, had observed to be in anyestimation there, either as useful or ornamental. Many presents, likewise, of the same nature, had been made him by Lord Sandwich, SirJoseph Banks, and several other gentlemen and ladies of hisacquaintance. In short, both during his residence in England, and athis departure from it, no method had been neglected, which could becalculated to render him the instrument of conveying to theinhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean, the most exaltedideas of the greatness and generosity of the British nation. CHAPTER VI. Narrative of Captain Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, to the Periodof his Death. Every preparation for the voyage being completed, Captain Cookreceived an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Discoveryunder his command. Having, accordingly, given the proper directions toCaptain Clerke, he sailed from the Nore to the Downs, on the 25th ofJune. On the 30th of the same month, he anchored in Plymouth Sound, where the Discovery was already arrived. It was the 8th day of Julybefore our commander received his instructions for the voyage; and atthe same time, he was ordered to proceed with the Resolution, to theCape of Good Hope. Captain Clerke, who was detained in London, by someunavoidable circumstances, was to follow as soon as he should join hisship. In the evening of the 12th, Captain Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound, and pursued his course down the Channel. It was very early that hebegan his judicious operations for preserving the health of his crew:for, on the 17th, the ship was smoked between the decks withgunpowder, and the spare sails were well aired. On the 30th, the moonbeing totally eclipsed, the captain observed it with a nighttelescope. He had not, on this occasion, an opportunity of making manyobservations. The reason was, that the moon was hidden behind theclouds the greater part of the time; and this was particularly thecase, when the beginning and the end of total darkness, and the end ofthe eclipse, happened. It being found, that there was not hay and corn sufficient for thesubsistence of the stock of animals on board, till the arrival of ourpeople at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Cook determined to touch atTeneriffe. This island he thought better adapted to the purposes ofprocuring these articles, and other refreshments, than Madeira. On the1st of August, he anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, and immediatelydispatched an officer to the governor, who, with the utmostpoliteness, granted everything which our commander requested. Were a judgment to be formed from the appearance of the country in theneighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe isso barren a spot, as to be insufficient for the maintenance even ofits own inhabitants. It was proved, however, by the ample supplieswhich our navigators received, that the islanders had enough to sparefor visitors. The necessary articles of refreshment were procured atsuch moderate prices, as to confirm Captain Cook in his opinion, thatTeneriffe is a more eligible place than Madeira, for ships to touchat, which are bound on long voyages. Indeed, the wine of the latterisland is far superior to that of the former; but then it can only bepurchased by a sum of money proportionably larger. During the short stay which the captain made at Teneriffe, hecontinued with great assiduity his astronomical observations; and Mr. Anderson has not a little contributed to the farther knowledge of thecountry, by his remarks on its general state, its natural appearances, its productions, and its inhabitants. He learned, from a sensible andwell informed gentleman, who resided in the island, that a shrub iscommon there, which agrees exactly with the description given byTournefort and Linnaeus, of the _tea shrub_, as growing in Chinaand Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and every year is rooted out inlarge quantities from the vineyards. The Spaniards, however, sometimesuse it as tea, and ascribe to it all the qualities of that which isimported from China. They give it also the name of tea, and say thatit was found in the country when the islands were first discovered. Another botanical curiosity is called the _impregnated lemon_;which is a perfect and distinct lemon enclosed within another, anddiffering from the outer one only in being a little more globular. The air and climate of Teneriffe are, in general, remarkablyhealthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in pulmonarycomplaints. This the gentleman before mentioned endeavoured to accountfor, from its being always in a person's power to procure a differenttemperature of the air, by residing at different heights in theisland. He expressed, therefore, his surprise that the physicians ofEngland should never have thought of sending their consumptivepatients to Teneriffe, instead of Nice or Lisbon. Although it is not understood that there is any great similaritybetween the manners of the English and those of the Spaniards, it wasobservable, that the difference between them was very little perceivedby Omai. He only said, that the Spaniards did not appear to be sofriendly as the English; and that, in their persons, they approachedto some resemblance of his own countrymen. On the 4th, Captain Cook sailed from Teneriffe, and proceeded on hisvoyage. Such was his attention, both to the discipline and the healthof his company, that twice in the space of five days, he exercisedthem at great guns and small arms, and cleared and smoked the shipbelow decks. On the evening of the 10th, when the Resolution was at asmall distance from the island of Bonavista, she ran so close upon anumber of sunken rocks, that she did but just weather the breakers. The situation of our voyagers, for a few minutes, was very alarming. In this situation the captain, with the intrepid coolness whichdistinguished his character, did not choose to sound, as that, withoutany possibility of lessening, might have heightened the danger. While our commander was near the Cape de Verde Islands, he had anopportunity of correcting an assertion of Mr. Nicholson with regard tothe manner of sailing by those islands, which, if implicitly trustedto, might prove of dangerous consequence. On the 13th, our navigatorsarrived before Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago; but as theDiscovery was not there, and little water had been expended in thepassage from Teneriffe, Captain Cook did not think proper to go in;but stood to the southward. In the course of the voyage, between the latitudes of 12° and 7°north, the weather was generally dark and gloomy. The rains werefrequent, and accompanied with that close and sultry weather, whichtoo often brings on sickness in this passage. At such a time, theworst consequences are to be apprehended: and commanders of shipscannot be too much upon their guard. It is necessary for them topurify the air between decks with fire and smoke, and to oblige theirpeople to dry their clothes at every opportunity. The constantobservance of these precautions on board the Resolution was attendedwith such success, that the captain had now fewer sick men than oneither of his former voyages. This was the more remarkable, as, inconsequence of the seams of the vessel having opened so wide, as toadmit the rain when it fell, there was scarcely a man who could liedry in his bed; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven outof their cabins by the water that came through the sides. When settledweather returned, the caulkers were employed in repairing thesedefects, by caulking the decks and inside weather-works of the ship;for the humanity of our commander would not trust the workmen over thesides, while the Resolution was at sea. On the 1st of September, our navigators crossed the equator. While, onthe 8th, Captain Cook was near the eastern coast of Brazil, he was atconsiderable pains to settle its longitude, which, till some betterastronomical observations are made on shore in that country, heconcluded to be thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-six degreeswest, at most. As our people proceeded on their voyage, they frequently saw, in thenight, those luminous marine animals, which have formerly beenmentioned and described. Some of them appeared to be considerablylarger than any which the captain had met with before; and sometimesthey were so numerous, that hundreds of them were visible at the samemoment. On the 18th of October, the Resolution came to an anchor in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope; and the usual compliments having been paidto Baron Plettenberg the governor, Captain Cook immediately appliedhimself to his customary operations. Nothing remarkable occurred tillthe evening of the 31st, when a tempest arose from the south-east, which lasted three days, and which was so violent that the Resolutionwas the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without draggingher anchors. The effects of the storm were sensibly felt by our peopleon shore; for their tents and observatory were torn to pieces, andtheir astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. Onthe 3rd of November, the tempest ceased, and the next day the Englishwere enabled to resume their different employments. It was not till the 10th of the month, that Captain Cook had thesatisfaction of seeing the Discovery arrive in the bay, and effect herjunction with the Resolution. She had sailed from England on the 1stof August, and would have reached the Cape of Good Hope a week sooner, if she had not been driven from the coast by the late storm. Everyassistance was immediately given to put her into a proper conditionfor proceeding on the voyage. While the necessary preparations for the future navigation wascompleting, a disaster happened with regard to the cattle which hadbeen carried out in the Resolution. They had been conveyed on shorefor the purpose of grazing. The bull, and two cows, with their calves, had been sent to graze along with some other cattle: but Captain Cookwas advised to keep the sheep, which were sixteen in number, close tothe tents, where they were penned up every evening. During the nightpreceding the 14th, some dogs having gotten in among them, forced themout of the pen, killed four, and dispersed the rest. Six of them wererecovered the next day; but the two rams and two of the finest ewes inthe whole flock, were amongst those which were missing. BaronPlettenberg being at this time in the country, our commander appliedto Mr. Hemmy, the lieutenant-governor, and to the fiscal, for redress;and both these gentlemen promised to use their endeavours for therecovery of the lost sheep. It is the boast of the Dutch, that thepolice at the Cape is so carefully executed, that it is scarcelypossible for a slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of thecountry, to effectuate his escape. Nevertheless, Captain Cook's sheepevaded all the vigilance of the fiscal's officers and people. Atlength, after much trouble and expense, by employing some of themeanest and lowest scoundrels in the place, he recovered all but thetwo ewes, of which he never could hear the least tidings. Thecharacter given of the fellows to whom the captain was obliged to haverecourse, by the person who recommended their being applied to, was, that for a ducatoon they would cut their master's throat, burn thehouse over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the ashes. During the stay of our voyagers at the Cape, some of the officers, accompanied by Mr. Anderson, made a short excursion into theneighbouring country. This gentleman, as usual, was very diligent inrecording every thing which appeared to him worthy of observation. Hisremarks, however, in the present case, will be deemed of littleconsequence, compared with the full, accurate, and curious account ofthe Cape of Good Hope, with which Dr. Sparrman hath lately favouredthe literary world. With respect to Captain Cook, besides the unavoidable care which layupon him, in providing his ships with whatever was requisite for thecommodious and successful prosecution of the voyage, his attention waseminently directed to scientific objects. He was anxious to ascertainthe currents, the variations of the compass, and the latitude andlongitude of the places to which he came. The observations which hecollected, and recorded in his journal, while he was at the Cape ofGood Hope, will be esteemed of the greatest importance by judiciousnavigators. After the disaster which had happened to the sheep, it may well besupposed that our commander did not long trust on shore those whichremained. Accordingly, he gave orders to have them, and the othercattle, conveyed on board as fast as possible. He made an addition, also, to the original stock, by the purchase of two young bulls, twoheifers, two young stallions, two mares, two rams, several ewes andgoats, and some rabbits and poultry. All these animals were intendedfor New Zealand. Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands; and, indeed, for any other places in the course of the voyage, where the leaving ofany of them might be of service to posterity. In the supplies which were provided at the Cape, Captain Cook paid aparticular regard to the nature and extent of his undertaking. As itwas impossible to tell when or where he might meet with a place, whichcould so amply contribute to his necessities, he thought proper to layin such a store of provisions for both ships, as would be sufficientto last them for two years and upwards. Our commander having given a copy of his instructions to CaptainClerke, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of aseparation, weighed from Table Bay on the 30th of November, though itwas not till the 3rd of December that he got clear of the land. On the6th the ships passed through several spots of water, nearly of a redcolour. When some of this was taken up, it was found to contain alarge quantity of small animals, of a reddish hue, and which themicroscope discovered to resemble a cray-fish. As our navigatorspursued their course to the south-east, a very strong gale, which theyhad from the westward, was followed by a mountainous sea, inconsequence of which the Resolution rolled and tumbled so much, thatthe cattle on board were preserved with the utmost difficulty. Soonafter, several of the goats, especially the males, together with somesheep, died, notwithstanding, all the care to prevent it, that wasexercised by our people. This misfortune was chiefly owing to thecoldness of the weather, which now began to be felt in the mostsensible manner. On the 12th, land was seen, which, upon a nearer approach, was foundto consist of two islands. That which lies most to the south, and isthe largest, was judged by Captain Cook to be about fifteen leagues incircuit. The northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and thetwo islands are at the distance of five leagues from each other. Asthe ships passed through the channel between them, our voyagers couldnot discover with the assistance of their best glasses, either tree orshrub on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore, and their surface is for the most part composed of barren mountains, the summits and sides of which were covered with snow. These twoislands, together with four others which lie from nine to twelvedegrees of longitude more to the east, and nearly in the samelatitude, had been discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet, French navigators, in January, 1772, on their passage, in two shipsfrom the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Islands. As no names hadbeen assigned to them in a chart of the Southern Ocean, which CaptainCrozet communicated to Captain Cook in 1775, our commanderdistinguished the two larger ones by calling them Prince Edward'sIslands, after his majesty's fourth son. To the other four, with aview of commemorating the discoverers, he gave the name of Marion'sand Crozet's Islands. Though it was now the middle of summer in this hemisphere, the weatherwas not less severe than what is generally met with in England in thevery depth of winter. Instead however, of being discouraged by thiscircumstance, the captain shaped his course in such a manner, as topass to the southward of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, that he mightget into the latitude of land which had been discovered by M. DeKerguelen, another French navigator. It was part of our commander'sinstructions to examine whether a good harbour might not here befound. As our voyagers, on the 24th, were steering to the eastward, a fogclearing up a little, which had involved them for some time, and whichhad rendered their navigation both tedious and dangerous, land wasseen, bearing south-south-east. Upon a nearer approach, it was foundto be an island of considerable height, and about three leagues incircuit. Another island, of the same magnitude, was soon afterdiscovered, and in a short space a third, besides some smaller ones. At times, as the fog broke away, there was the appearance of land overthe small islands, and Captain Cook entertained thoughts of steeringfor it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, he foundthat, so long as the weather continued foggy this would be a perilousattempt. For if there should be no passage, or if our people shouldmeet with any sudden danger, there was such a prodigious sea, breakingon all the shores in a frightful surf, that it would have beenimpossible for the vessels to be gotten off. At the same time, thecaptain saw another island; and as he did not know how many more mightsucceed, he judged it prudent, in order to avoid getting entangledamong unknown lands in a thick fog, to wait for clearer weather. The island last mentioned is a high round rock, which was namedBligh's Cap. Our commander had received some very slight informationconcerning it at Teneriffe, and his sagacity in tracing it was such, as immediately led him to determine, that it was the same that M. DeKerguelen had called the Isle of Rendezvous. His reason for giving itthat name is not very apparent; for nothing can rendezvous upon it butfowls of the air, it being certainly inaccessible to every otheranimal. The weather beginning to clear up, Captain Cook steered in forthe land, of which a faint view had been obtained in the morning. Thiswas Kerguelen's land. No sooner had our navigators gotten off CapeFrançois, then they observed the coast to the southward, to be muchindented by projecting points and bays; from which circumstance theywere sure of finding a good harbour. Accordingly, such a harbour wasspeedily discovered, in which the ships came to an anchor on the 25th, being Christmas-day. Upon landing, our commander found the shorealmost entirely covered with penguins and other birds, and with seals. The latter, which were not numerous, having been unaccustomed tovisitors, were so insensible of fear, that as many as were wanted forthe purpose of making use of their fat or blubber, were killed withoutdifficulty. Fresh water was so plentiful, that every gully afforded alarge stream; but not a single tree or shrub, or the least sign of it, could be met with, and but very little herbage of any sort. BeforeCaptain Cook returned to his ship, he ascended the first ridge ofrocks, that rise in a kind of amphitheatre, above one another, inhopes of obtaining a view of the country; in which, however, he wasdisappointed: for, previously to his reaching the top, there came onso thick a fog, that he could scarcely find his way down again. In theevening, the seine was hauled at the head of the harbour, but onlyhalf a dozen small fish were caught. As no better success attended atrial which was made the next day with hook and line, the onlyresource for fresh provision was in birds, the store of which wasinexhaustible. The people having wrought hard for two days, and nearly completedtheir water the captain allowed them the 27th, as a day of rest, tocelebrate Christmas. Many of them, in consequence of this indulgence, went on shore, and made excursions, in different directions, into thecountry which they found barren and desolate in the highest degree. One of them in his ramble, discovered, and brought to our commander, in the evening, a quart bottle, fastened with some wire to aprojecting rock on the north side of the harbour. This bottlecontained a piece of parchment, on which was written the followinginscription: _Ludovico XV. Galliarum rege et d. De Boynes regi a Secretis ad Res maritimas annis 1772 et 1773. _ It was clear, from this inscription, that our English navigators werenot the first who had been in the place. As a memorial of our people'shaving touched at the same harbour, Captain Cook wrote, as follows, onthe other side of the parchment: _Naves Resolution et Discovery de Rege Magnae Britanniae, Decembris, 1776. _ He then put it again into the bottle, together with a silver twopennypiece of 1772. Having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leadencap, he placed it, the next morning in a pile of stones, erected forthe purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour, and near to the place where it was first found. In this position itcannot escape the notice of any European, whom accident or design maybring into the port. Here the captain displayed the British flag, andnamed the place Christmas Harbour, from our voyagers having arrived init on that festival. After our commander had finished the business of the inscription, hewent in his boat round the harbour, to examine what the shoreafforded. His more particular object was to look for drift-wood; buthe did not find a single piece throughout the whole extent of theplace. On the same day, accompanied by Mr. King, his secondlieutenant, he went upon Cape François, with the hope, that, from thiselevation, he might obtain a view of the sea-coast, and of theadjoining islands. But when he had gotten up, he found, that everydistant object below him was obscured in a thick fog. The land on thesame plain, or of a greater height, was sufficiently visible, andappeared naked and desolate in the highest degree; some hills to thesouthward excepted, which were covered with snow. On the 29th, Captain Cook departed from Christmas Harbour, andproceeded to range along the coast, with a view of discovering itsposition and extent. In pursuing his course he met with severalpromontories and bays, together with a peninsula, all of which he hasdescribed and named, chiefly in honour of his various friends. Suchwas the danger of the navigation, that the ships had more than once avery narrow escape. On the same day, another harbour was discovered, in which the vessels came to an anchor for one night. Here thecaptain, Mr. Gore, and Mr. Bayley went on shore to examine thecountry, which they found, if possible, more barren and desolate thanthe land that lies about Christmas Harbour: and yet, if the leastfertility were any where to be expected, it ought to have existed inthis place, which is completely sheltered from the bleak andpredominating southerly and westerly winds. Our commander observed, with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle ofany sort; and that, if he left any, they must inevitably perish. Finding no encouragement to continue his researches, he weighed anchorand put to sea on the 30th, having given to the harbour the name ofPort Palliser. On the same day, he came to a point, which proved to bethe very eastern extremity of Kerguelen's Land. In a large bay, nearthis point, there was a prodigious quantity of sea-weed, some of whichis of a most extraordinary length. It seemed to be the same kind ofvegetable production that Sir Joseph Banks had formerly distinguishedby the appellation of _fucus giganteus_. Although the stem is notmuch thicker than a man's hand, Captain Cook thought himself wellwarranted to say, that part of it grows to the length of sixty fathomsand upward. The result of the examination of Kerguelen's Land was, that thequantity of latitude which it occupies doth not much exceed one degreeand a quarter. Its extent, from east to west, still remains undecided. At its first discovery, it was probably supposed to belong to asouthern continent; but, in fact, it is an island, and that of nogreat extent. If our commander had not been unwilling to deprive M. Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name, he would have beendisposed, from its sterility, to call it the Island of Desolation. It should here be mentioned, that M. De Kerguelen made two visits tothe coast of this country; one in 1772 and another in 1773. With thefirst of these voyages Captain Cook had only a very slightacquaintance; and to the second he was totally a stranger; so that hescarcely had any opportunity of comparing his own discoveries withthose of the French navigator. M. De Kerguelen was peculiarlyunfortunate, in having done but little to complete what he had begun;for though he discovered a new land, he could not, in two expeditionsto it, once bring his ships to an anchor upon any part of its coasts. Captain Cook had either fewer difficulties to struggle with, or wasmore successful in surmounting them. During the short time in which our voyagers lay in Christmas Harbour, Mr. Anderson lost no opportunity of searching the country in everydirection. Perhaps no place, hitherto discovered, under the sameparellel of latitude, affords so scanty a field for a naturalhistorian. All that could be known in the space of time allotted him, and probably all that will ever be worthy to be known, was collectedby this gentleman. A verdure, which had been seen at a little distancefrom the shore, gave our people the flattering expectation of meetingwith a variety of herbage: but in this they were greatly deceived. Onlanding, it was perceived, that the lively colour which had imposedupon them, was occasioned only by one small plant, not unlike somesorts of _saxifrage_. It grows in large spreading tufts aconsiderable way up the hills. The whole catalogue of plants does notexceed sixteen or eighteen, including several kinds of moss, and abeautiful species of lichen, which rises higher up from the rocks thanthe rest of the vegetable productions. There is not the appearance ofa shrub in the whole country. Nature has been somewhat more bountifulin furnishing it with animals; though, strictly speaking, they are notinhabitants of the place, being all of the marine kind. In general, the land is only used by them for breeding, and as a resting place. Ofthese animals the most considerable are seals; being of that sortwhich is called the ursine seal. The birds, which have already beenmentioned as very numerous, chiefly consist of penguins, ducks, petrels, albatrosses, shags, gulls, and sea swallows. Penguins, whichare far superior in number to the rest are of three kinds, one ofwhich had never been seen by any of our voyagers before. The rocks, orfoundations of the hills are principally composed of that dark blueand very hard stone, which seems to be one of the most universalproductions of nature. Nothing was discovered that had the leastappearance of ore or metal. From this desolate coast Captain Cook took his departure on the 31st, intending, agreeably to his instructions, to touch next at NewZealand; that he might obtain a recruit of water, take in wood, andmake hay for the cattle. Their number was now considerably diminished;for two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of thegoats, had died while our navigators where employed in exploringKerguelen's Land. For some time they had fresh gales, and tolerablyclear weather. But on the 3rd of January, 1777, the wind veered to thenorth, where it continued eight days, and was attended with so thick afog, that the ships ran above three hundred leagues in the dark. Occasionally the weather would clear up, and give our people a sightof the sun; but this happened very seldom, and was always of shortcontinuance. However, amidst all the darkness produced by the fog, thevessels, though they seldom saw each other, were so fortunate, inconsequence of frequently firing guns as signals, that they did notlose company. On the 12th, the northerly winds ended in a calm. Thiswas succeeded, in a little time, by a wind from the southward, whichbrought on a rain that continued for twenty-four hours. At the end ofthe rain, the wind freshened, and veering to the west and north-west, was followed by fair and clear weather. Nothing very remarkable occurred to our voyagers till the 24th, whenthey discovered the coast of Van Dieman's Land; and, on the 26th, theships came to an anchor in Adventure Bay. Captain Cook, as soon as hehad anchored, ordered the boats to be hoisted out; in one of which hewent himself, to look for the most commodious place for obtaining thenecessary supplies. Wood and water were found in abundance, and inplaces sufficiently convenient; but grass, which was most wanted, wasscarce, and, at the same time, very coarse. Necessity, however, obliged our people to take up with such as could be procured. On the 28th, the English who were employed in cutting wood, wereagreeably surprised with a visit from some of the natives. Theyconsisted of eight men and a boy, who approached our voyagers not onlywithout fear, but with the most perfect confidence and freedom. Therewas only a single person among them who had any thing which bore theleast appearance of a weapon, and that was no more than a stick abouttwo feet long, and pointed at one end. These people were quite naked, and wore no kind of ornaments; unless some large punctures, or ridges, raised in different parts of their bodies, either in straight orcurved lines, may be considered in that light. Most of them had theirhair and beards smeared with a red ointment: and the faces of some ofthem were painted with the same composition. Every present whichCaptain Cook made them they received without the least appearance ofsatisfaction. Of bread and elephant fish, which were offered them, they refused to taste, but shewed that they were fond of birds, as anarticle of food. Two pigs, which the captain had brought on shore, having come within their reach, they seized them by the ears, as a dogwould have done, and would have carried them off immediately, apparently with no other intention than to kill them. Our commanderbeing desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of theIndians had in his hands, he signified, by signs, his wishes to thatpurpose. His intimations so far succeeded, that one of them set up apiece of wood as a mark, and threw at it at the distance of abouttwenty yards. There was but little reason to commend his dexterity;for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide from his object. Omai, to convince the natives how much our weapons were superior totheirs, then fired his musket at the mark by which they were sogreatly terrified, that, notwithstanding all the endeavours of theEnglish to quiet their minds, they ran instantly into the woods. After the retreat of the Indians, Captain Cook, judging that theirfears would prevent their remaining near enough to observe whatpassed, ordered the two pigs, being a boar and sow, to be carriedabout a mile within the head of the bay, and saw them left there, bythe side of a fresh water brook. It was, at first, his benevolentintention to make an additional present to Van Dieman's Land, of ayoung bull and cow, together with some sheep and goats. But, uponreflection, he laid aside this design; being persuaded that thenatives would destroy them, from, their incapacity of entering intohis views with regard to the improvement of their country. As pigs areanimals which soon become wild, and are fond of the thickest cover ofthe woods, there was the greater probability of their being preserved. For the accommodation of the other cattle, an open place must havebeen chosen; in which situation they could not possibly have beenconcealed many days. On the 29th, about twenty of the inhabitants, men and boys, joinedCaptain Cook and such of his people as had landed with him, withoutmanifesting the least sign of fear or distrust. It was remarkable, that one of the Indians was conspicuously deformed; nor was he moredistinguished by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of hisgestures, and the humour of his speeches, which had the appearance ofbeing intended for the entertainment of our voyagers. Unfortunately, the language in which he spake to them was wholly unintelligible. Toeach of the present group the captain gave a string of beads and amedal, which they seemed to receive with some satisfaction. On iron, and iron tools, they appeared to set no value. There was reason tobelieve, that they were even ignorant of fish-hooks; and yet it isdifficult to suppose, that a people who inhabit a sea-coast, and whowere not observed to derive any part of their sustenance from theproductions of the ground, should be unacquainted with some mode ofcatching fish. However, they were never seen to be thus employed; norwas any canoe or vessel discovered by which they could go upon thewater. Though they had rejected the kind of fish which had beenoffered them, it was evident that shell fish made a part of theirfood. After Captain Cook had left the shore, several women and children madetheir appearance, and were introduced to Lieutenant King by some ofthe men that attended them. These females (a kanguroo skin excepted, which was tied over their shoulders, and seemed to be intended tosupport their infants) were as naked and as black as the men, and hadtheir bodies marked with scars in the same manner. Many of thechildren had fine features, and were thought to be pretty; but a lessfavourable report was made of the women, and especially of those whowere advanced in years. Some of the gentlemen, however, belonging tothe Discovery, as our commander was informed, paid their addresses andmade liberal offers of presents, which were rejected with greatdisdain. It is certain that this gallantry was not very agreeable tothe men: for an elderly man, as soon as he observed it, ordered thewomen to retire. The order was obeyed; but, on the part of some of thefemales, with the appearance of a little reluctance. On the present occasion, Captain Cook made some proper and pertinentreflections, which I shall deliver in his own words. 'This conduct, 'says he, 'of Europeans among savages, to their women, is highlyblamable; as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be attendedwith consequences fatal to the success of the common enterprise, andto the whole body of adventures, without advancing the private purposeof the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. Ibelieve it has generally been found, amongst uncivilized people, thatwhere the women are easy of access, the men are the first to offerthem to strangers; and that, where this is not the case, neither theallurements of presents, nor the opportunity of privacy will be likelyto have the desired effect. This observation, I am sure, will holdgood throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Whythen should men act so absurd a part, as to risk their own safety, andthat of all their companions, in pursuit of a gratification, whichthey have no probability of obtaining?' While our navigators were at Van Dieman's Land, they were successfulin obtaining a plentiful crop of grass for their cattle, and such aswas far more excellent than what they had met with at their firstgoing on shore. The quantity collected was judged by the captain to besufficient to last till his arrival in New-Zealand. Van Dieman's Land had been visited twice before. That name had beengiven it by Tasman, who discovered it in 1642; from which time it hadescaped all notice of European navigators, till Captain Furneauxtouched at it, in 1773. It is well known that it is the southern pointof New Holland, which is by far the largest island in the world;indeed, so large an island, as almost to deserve the appellation of acontinent. While Captain Cook was at this country, he neglected nothing whichcould promote the knowledge of science and navigation. Here, as everywhere else, he settled the latitude and longitude of places; markedthe variations of the compass, and recorded the nature of the tides. He corrected, likewise, an error of Captain Furneaux, with respect tothe situation of Maria's Islands; on which subject he hath candidlyremarked, that his own idea is not the result of a more faithful, butmerely of a second, examination. Mr. Anderson, during the few days in which the ships remained inAdventure Bay, exerted his usual diligence in collecting as full anaccount as could be obtained, in so short a period of time, of thenatural productions and the inhabitants of the country. Little can besaid concerning either the personal activity or genius of the natives. The first, they do not seem to possess in any remarkable degree; and, to all appearance, they have less of the last, than even thehalf-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. Their not expressingthat surprise which might have been expected, from their seeing men somuch unlike themselves, and things to which they had hitherto beenutter strangers; their indifference for the presents of our people, and their general inattention, were sufficient testimonies that theywere not endued with any acuteness of understanding. What the ancientpoets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees is realizedat Van Dieman's Land. Some wretched constructions of sticks, coveredwith bark, and which did not deserve the name of huts, were indeedfound near the shore; but these seemed only to have been erected fortemporary purposes. The most comfortable habitations of the nativeswere afforded by the largest trees. These had their trunks hollowedout by fire, to the height of six or seven feet; and there was roomenough in them for three or four persons to sit round a hearth, madeof clay. At the same time, these places of shelter are durable; forthe people take care to leave one side of the tree sound, which issufficient to keep it in luxuriant growth. The inhabitants of VanDieman's Land are undoubtedly from the same stock with those of thenorthern parts of New Holland. Their language, indeed, appeared to bedifferent; but how far the difference extended, our voyagers could nothave an opportunity of determining. With regard to the New Hollandersin general, there is reason to suppose that they originally came fromthe same place with all the Indians of the South Sea. On the 30th of January, 1777, Captain Cook sailed from Adventure Bay, and on the 12th of February came to an anchor at his old station ofQueen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand. Being unwilling to lose anytime, he commenced his operations that very afternoon. By his order, several of the empty water casks were immediately landed, and a placewas begun to be cleared for setting up the two observatories, and theerection of tents, to accommodate a guard, and the rest of thecompany, whose business might require them to remain on shore. Ournavigators had not long been at anchor, before a number of canoes, filled with natives, came alongside of the ships. However, very few ofthem would venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, asthe captain was well known to them all, and they could not beinsensible how liberally he had behaved to them on former occasions. There was one man in particular, whom he had treated with remarkablekindness, during the whole of his last stay in this place; and yet, neither professions of friendship, nor presents, could prevail uponhim to enter the Resolution. There was a real cause for this shyness on the part of the NewZealanders. A dreadful event had happened to some of CaptainFurneaux's crew, while he lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, after he hadfinally separated from Captain Cook, in the former voyage. Ten men, who had been sent out in the large cutter to gather wild greens, forthe ship's company, were killed in a skirmish with the natives. Whatwas the cause of the quarrel could not be ascertained, as not one ofthe company survived to relate the story. Lieutenant Burney, who wasordered to go in search of them, found only some fragments of theirbodies, from which it appeared that they had been converted into thefood of the inhabitants. It was the remembrance of this event, and thefear of its being revenged, which now rendered the New Zealanders sofearful of entering the English vessels. From the conversation ofOmai, who was on board the Adventure when the melancholy affairhappened, they knew that it could not be unknown to Captain Cook. Thecaptain, therefore, judged it necessary to use every endeavour toassure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he shouldnot disturb them on account of the catastrophe. It was most probablyin consequence of this assurance, that they soon laid aside all mannerof restraint and distrust. In the meanwhile, the operations for refitting the ships, and forobtaining provisions were carried on with great vigour, for theprotection of the party on shore, our commander appointed a guard often marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen; with whom Mr. King, and two or three petty officers, constantly remained. A boat was neversent to a considerable distance without being armed, or without beingunder the direction of such officers as might be depended upon, andwho were well acquainted with the natives. In Captain Cook's formervisits to this country, he had never made use of such precautions; norwas he now convinced of their absolute necessity. But, after thetragical fate of the crew of the Adventure's boat in this sound, andof Captain Marion du Fresne, and some of his people, in the Bay ofIslands (in 1772), it was impossible to free our navigators from allapprehensions of experiencing a similar calamity. Whatever suspicions the inhabitants might at first entertain, thattheir acts of barbarity would be revenged, they very speedily becameso perfectly easy upon the subject, as to take up their residenceclose to our voyagers; and the advantage of their coming to live withthe English was not inconsiderable. Every day, when the weather wouldpermit, some of them went out to catch fish, and our people generallyobtained, by exchanges, a good share of the produce of their labours, in addition to the supply which was afforded by our own nets andlines. Nor was there a deficiency of vegetable refreshments; to whichwas united sprucebeer for drink; so that if the seeds of the scurvyhad been contracted by any of the crew, they would speedily have beenremoved by such a regimen. The fact, however, was, that there was onlytwo invalids upon the sick lists in both ships. Curiosities, fish, and women, were the articles of commerce suppliedby the New Zealanders. The two first always came to a good market; butthe latter did not happen, at this time, to be an acceptablecommodity. Our seamen had conceived a dislike to these people, andwere either unwilling or afraid to associate with them; the goodeffect of which was, that our commander knew no instance of a man'squitting his station, to go to the habitations of the Indians. Aconnexion with women it was out of Captain Cook's power to prevent;but he never encouraged it, and always was fearful of itsconsequences. Many, indeed, are of opinion, that such an intercourseis a great security among savages. But if this should ever be the casewith those who remain and settle among them, it is generally otherwisewith respect to travellers and transient visitors. In such a situationas was that of our navigators, a connexion with the women of thenatives, betrays more men than it saves. 'What else, ' says thecaptain, 'can reasonably be expected, since all their views areselfish without the least mixture of regard or attachment? My ownexperience, at least, which hath been pretty extensive, hath notpointed out to me one instance to the contrary. ' Amongst the persons who occasionally visited the English, was a chiefof the name of Kahoora, who, as Captain Cook was informed, had headedthe party that cutoff Captain Furneaux's people, and had himselfkilled Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. This man our commander wasstrongly solicited to put to death, even by some of the natives; andOmai was perfectly eager and violent upon the subject. To thesesolicitations the captain paid not the least degree of attention. Heeven admired Kahoora's courage, and was not a little pleased with theconfidence with which he had put himself into his power. Kahoora hadplaced his whole safety in the declarations that Captain Cook haduniformly made to the New Zealanders; which were that he had alwaysbeen a friend to them all, and would continue to be so, unless theygave him cause to act otherwise; that as to their inhuman treatment ofour people, he should think no more of it, the transaction havinghappened long ago, and when he was not present; but that, if ever theymade a second attempt of the same kind, they might rest assured offeeling the weight of his resentment. While our commander on the 16th, was making an excursion for thepurposes of collecting food for his cattle, he embraced theopportunity to inquire, as accurately as possible, into thecircumstances which had attended the melancholy fate of ourcountrymen. Omai was his interpreter on this occasion. The result ofthe inquiry was, that the quarrel first took its rise from somethefts, in the commission of which the natives were detected; thatthere was no premeditated plan of bloodshed; and that if these theftshad not, unfortunately, been too hastily resented, no mischief wouldhave happened. Kahoora's greatest enemies, and even the very men thathad most earnestly solicited his destruction, confessed, at the sametime, that he had no intention of quarrelling with Captain Furneaux'speople, and much less of killing any of them, till the fray hadactually commenced. Captain Cook continued in this his last visit to New Zealand, thesolicitude he had formerly shewn to be of some essential futureservice to the country. To one chief he gave two goats, a male andfemale, with a kid; and to another two pigs, a boar and a sow. Although he had obtained a promise from both these chiefs, that theywould not kill the animals which had been presented to them, he couldnot venture to place any great reliance upon their assurances. It washis full intention, on his present arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, to have left not only goats and hogs, but sheep, together with a youngbull and two heifers. The accomplishment, however, of this resolutiondepended either upon his finding a chief, who was powerful enough toprotect and keep the cattle, or upon his meeting with a place wherethere might be a probability of their being concealed from those whowould ignorantly attempt to destroy them. Neither of thesecircumstances happened to be conformable to his wishes. At differenttimes he had left to New Zealand ten or a dozen hogs, besides thosewhich had been put on shore by Captain Furneaux. It will, therefore, be a little extraordinary, if this race of animals should not increaseand be preserved, either in a wild or a domestic state, or in both. Our commander was informed, that Tiratou, a popular chief among thenatives, had a number of cocks and hens, and one sow, in his separatepossession. With regard to the gardens which had formerly been plantedthough they had almost entirely been neglected, and some of themdestroyed, they were not wholly unproductive. They were found tocontain cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, mustard, and afew potatoes. The potatoes, which had first been brought from the Capeof Good Hope, were greatly meliorated by change of soil; and, withproper cultivation, would be superior to those produced in most othercountries. A great addition of knowledge was obtained, during this voyage, withrespect to the productions of New Zealand, and the manners and thecustoms of its inhabitants. The zeal of Captain Cook upon the subjectwas admirably seconded by the sedulous diligence of Mr. Anderson, whoomitted no opportunity of collecting every kind and degree ofinformation. I shall only so far trespass on the patience of myreaders, as to mention a few circumstances tending to delineate thecharacter of the natives. They seemed to be a people perfectlysatisfied with the little they already possess; nor are theyremarkably curious either in their observations or their inquiries. New objects are so far from striking them with such a degree ofsurprise as might naturally be expected, that they scarcely fix theirattention even for a moment. In the arts with which they areacquainted, they shew as much ingenuity, both in invention andexecution, as any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances. Without the least use of those tools which are formed of metal, theymake every thing that is necessary to procure their subsistence, clothing, and military weapons; and all this is done by them with aneatness, a strength, and a convenience, that are well adapted to theaccomplishment of the several purposes they have in view. No peoplecan have a quicker sense of an injury done to them than the NewZealanders, or be more ready to resent it; and yet they want onecharacteristic of true bravery; for they will take an opportunity ofbeing insolent, when they think that there is no danger of their beingpunished. From the number of their weapons, and their dexterity inusing them, it appears, that war is their principal profession. Indeed, their public contentions are so frequent, or rather soperpetual, that they must live under continual apprehensions of beingdestroyed by each other. From their horrid custom of eating the fleshof their enemies, not only without reluctance, but with peculiarsatisfaction, it would be natural to suppose that they must bedestitute of every humane feeling, even with regard to their ownparty. This, however, is not the case; for they lament the loss oftheir friends with a violence of expression which argues the mosttender remembrance of them. At a very early age the children areinitiated into all the practices, whether good or bad, of theirfathers; so that a boy or girl, when only nine or ten years old, canperform the motions, and imitate the frightful gestures, by which themore aged are accustomed to inspire their enemies with terror. Theycan keep likewise the strictest time in their song; and it is withsome degree of melody that they sing the traditions of theirforefathers, their actions in war, and other subjects. The militaryachievements of their ancestors, the New Zealanders celebrate with thehighest pleasure, and spend much of their time in diversions of thissort, and in playing upon a musical instrument, which partakes of thenature of a flute. With respect to their language, it is far frombeing harsh or disagreeable, though the pronunciation of it isfrequently guttural; nor, if we may judge from the melody of somekinds of their songs, is it destitute of those qualities, which fit itto be associated with music. Of its identity with the languages of theother islands throughout the South Sea, fresh proofs were exhibitedduring the present voyage. At the request of Omai, Captain Cook consented to take with him twoyouths from New Zealand. That they might not quit their native countryunder any deluding ideas of visiting it again, the captain took careto inform their parents, in the strongest terms, that they would neverreturn. This declaration seemed, however, to make no kind ofimpression. The father of the youngest had resigned him with anindifference, which he would scarcely have shewn at parting with hisdog, and even stripped the boy of the little clothing he possessed, delivering him quite naked into the hands of our voyagers. This wasnot the case with the mother of the other youth. She took her leave ofhim with all the marks of tender affection that might be expectedbetween a parent and a child on such an occasion; but she soon resumedher cheerfulness, and went away wholly unconcerned. On the 25th of the month, Captain Cook stood out of Queen Charlotte'sSound, and by the 27th got clear of New Zealand. No sooner had theships lost sight of the land, than the two young adventurers from thatcountry, one of whom was nearly eighteen years of age, and the otherabout ten, began deeply to repent of the step they had taken. It wasthe experience of the sea-sickness, which gave this turn to theirreflections; and all the soothing encouragement the English couldthink of, was but of a little avail. They wept, both in public and inprivate, and made their lamentation in a kind of song, that seemed tobe expressive of the praises of their country and people, from whichthey were to be separated for ever. In this disposition they continuedfor many days: but as their sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult oftheir minds subsided, the fits of lamentation became less and lessfrequent, and at length entirely ceased. By degrees, their nativecountry and their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be asfirmly attached to our navigators, as if they had been born inEngland. In the prosecution of the voyage, Captain Cook met with unfavourablewinds; and it was not till the 29th of March that land was discovered. It was found to be an inhabited island, the name of which, as waslearned from two of the natives, who came off in a canoe, is Mangeea. Our commander examined the coast with his boats, and had a shortintercourse with some of the inhabitants. Not being able to find aproper harbour for bringing the ships to an anchorage, he was obliged, to leave the country unvisited, though it seemed capable of supplyingall the wants of our voyagers. The island of Mangeea is full fiveleagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height. It has, upon the whole, a pleasing aspect, and might be made a beautiful spotby cultivation. The inhabitants, who appeared to be both numerous andwell fed, seemed to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas inthe beauty of their persons; and the resemblance, as far as could bejudged in so short a compass of time, takes place, with respect totheir general disposition and character. From the coast of Mangeea our commander sailed in the afternoon of the30th, and on the next day land was again seen, within four leagues ofwhich the ships arrived on the 1st of April. Our people could thenpronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extentwith that which had so lately been left. Some of the natives speedilyput off in their canoes, and three of them were pursuaded to come onboard the Resolution; on which occasion, their whole behaviour markedthat they were quite at their ease, and felt no kind of apprehensionthat they should be detained, or ill used. In a visit from severalothers of the inhabitants, they manifested a dread of approaching nearthe cows and horses: nor could they form the least conception of theirnature. But the sheep and goats did not, in their opinion, surpass thelimits of their ideas; for they gave our navigators to understand thatthey knew them to be birds. As there is not the most distantresemblance between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal, this maybe thought to be almost an incredible example of human ignorance. Butit should be remembered, that, excepting hogs, dogs, and birds, thesepeople were strangers to the existence of any other land animals. In a farther intercourse with the natives, who had brought a hog, together with some plantains and cocoanuts, they demanded a dog fromour voyagers, and refused every thing besides which was offered inexchange. One of the gentlemen on board happened to have a dog and abitch which were great nuisances in the ship; and these he might nowhave disposed of in a manner that would have been of real futureutility to the island. But he had no such views in making them thecompanions of his voyage. Omai, however, with a goodnature thatreflects honour upon him, parted with a favourite dog which he hadbrought from England; and with this acquisition the people departedhighly satisfied. On the 3rd of April, Captain Cook dispatched Mr. Gore, with threeboats, to endeavour to get upon the island. Mr. Gore himself, Omai, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney were the only persons that landed. Thetransactions of the day, of which Mr. Anderson, drew up an ingeniousand entertaining account, added to the stock of knowledge gained byour navigators, but did not accomplish Captain Cook's principalobject. Nothing was procured by the gentlemen, from the island, thatsupplied the wants of the ships. In this expedition, Omai displayedthat turn of exaggeration, with which travellers have so frequentlybeen charged. Being asked by the natives concerning the English, theirships, their country, and the arms they made use of, his answers werenot a little marvellous. He told these people, that our country hadships as large as their islands; on board which were instruments ofwar (describing our guns) of such dimensions, that several personsmight sit within them. At the same time, he assured the inhabitants, that one of these guns was sufficient to crush their whole island at asingle shot. Though he was obliged to acknowledge that the guns onboard the vessels upon their coast were but small, he contrived by anexplosion of gunpowder, to inspire them with a formidable idea oftheir nature and effect. It is probable, that this representation of, things contributed to the preservation of the gentlemen, in theirenterprise on shore; for a strong disposition to retain them had beenshewn by the natives. It seemed destined that this day should give Omai more occasions thanone of bearing a principal part in its transactions. The island, though never visited by Europeans before, happened to have otherstrangers residing in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's havingattended on the expedition, that a circumstance so curious came to theknowledge of the English. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, when he found, among the crowd which had assembled there, three of hisown countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. That, at the distanceof about two hundred leagues from those islands, an immense unknownocean intervening, with the wretched boats their inhabitants are knownto make use of, and fit only for a passage where sight of land isscarcely ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, so accidentallyvisited, should occur, may well be regarded as one of those unexpectedsituations with which the writers of feigned adventures love tosurprise their readers. When events of this kind really happen incommon life, they deserve to be recorded for their singularity. It mayeasily be supposed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction thisinterview of Omai with his countrymen was attended. Twelve yearsbefore, about twenty persons in number, of both sexes, had embarked onboard a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island ofUlietea. A violent storm having arisen, which drove them out of theircourse, and their provisions being very scanty, they sufferedincredible hardships, and the greatest part of them perished by famineand fatigue. Four men only survived when the boat overset, and thenthe destruction of this small remnant appeared to be inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the side of the vessel, which theycontinued to do for some days, when they were providentially broughtwithin sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent outcanoes and brought them on shore. The three men who now survived, expressed a strong sense of the kind treatment they had received; andso well satisfied were they with their present situation, that theyrefused an offer which was made them of being conveyed to their nativecountry. A very important instruction may be derived from thepreceding narrative. It will serve to explain, better than a thousandconjectures of speculative reasoners, how the detached parts of theearth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, thoughlying remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other, mayhave originally been peopled. Similar adventures have occurred in thehistory of navigation and shipwrecks. The island on which Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderson, Mr. Burney, and Omai, hadlanded is called Wateeoo by the natives, and is a beautiful spot, having a surface composed of hills and plains, which are covered witha verdure rendered extremely pleasant by the diversity of its hues. Its inhabitants are very numerous; and many of the young men wereperfect models in shape; besides which, they had complexions asdelicate as those of the women, and appeared to be equally amiable intheir dispositions. In their manners, their general habits of life, and their religious ceremonies and opinions, these islanders have anear resemblance to the people of Otaheite and its neighbouring isles;and their language was well understood, both by Omai and the two NewZealanders. The next place visited by Captain Cook was a small island, calledWennooa-ette, or Otakootaia, to which Mr. Gore was sent, at the headof a party who procured about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship, andsome grass, together with a quantity of the leaves and branches ofyoung trees, for the cattle. Though, at this time, no inhabitants werefound in Wennooa-ette, yet, as there remained indubitable marks of itsbeing, at least, occasionally frequented, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, andseveral nails, to the full value of what had been taken away. On the 5th, our commander directed his course for Harvey's Island, which was only at the distance of fifteen leagues, and where he hopedto procure some refreshments. This island had been discovered by him, in 1773, during his last voyage, when no traces were discerned of itshaving any inhabitants. It was now experienced to be well peopled, andby a race of men who appeared to differ much, both in person anddisposition, from the natives of Wateeoo. Their behaviour wasdisorderly and clamorous; their colour was of a deeper cast; andseveral of them had a fierce and rugged aspect. It was remarkable, that not one of them had adopted the practice, so generally prevalentamong the people of the southern Ocean, of puncturing or_tatooing_ their bodies. But notwithstanding this singularity, the most unequivocal proofs were exhibited of their having the samecommon origin; and their language, in particular, approached stillnearer to the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangea. Noanchorage for the ships being found in Harvey's island, Captain Cookquitted it without delay. The captain being thus disappointed at all the islands he had metwith, since his leaving New Zealand, and his progress havingunavoidably been retarded by unfavourable winds, and other unforeseencircumstances, it became impossible to think of doing any thing thisyear in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which hewas still at so great a distance, though the season for his operationsthere was already begun. In this situation, it was absolutelynecessary, in the first place, to pursue such measures as were mostlikely to preserve the cattle that were on board. A still more capitalobject was to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that hemight the better be enabled to prosecute his discoveries to the north, which could not now be commenced till a year later than was originallyintended. If he had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply ofwater, and of grass, at any of the islands he had lately visited, itwas his purpose to have stood back to the south, till he had met witha westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this, withoutsuch a supply, would have been the loss of all the cattle; while atthe same time, not a single advantage would have been gained, withregard to the grand ends of the voyage. He determined, therefore, tobeat away for the Friendly Islands, where he was sure of beingabundantly provided. In pursuing his course, agreeably to this resolution, our commander, on the 14th, reached Palmerston Island, where, and at a neighbouringislet, both of which were uninhabited, some little relief wasobtained. The boats soon procured a load of scurvy-grass and youngcocoa-nut trees, which was a feast for the cattle; and the same feast, with the addition of palm cabbage, and the tender branches of the_wharra_ tree, was continued for several days. On the 16th, Omai, being on shore with the captain, caught with a scoop-net, in a veryshort time, as much fish as served the whole party for dinner, besidessending a quantity to both the ships. Birds, too, and particularlymen-of-war and tropic birds, were plentifully obtained; so that ournavigators had sumptuous entertainment. Omai acted as cook upon theoccasion. The fish and the birds he dressed with heated stones, afterthe manner of his country; and performed the operation with adexterity and good humour which were greatly to his credit. From theislet before mentioned, twelve hundred cocoa-nuts were procured, whichbeing equally divided among the crew, were of great use to them, bothon account of the juice and the kernel. There is no water in theislets which are comprehended under the name of Palmerston Island. Ifthat article could be obtained, and good anchorage could beaccomplished within the reef, Captain Cook would prefer this island toany of the uninhabited ones, for the mere purpose of refreshment. Thequantity of fish that might be caught would be sufficient; and aship's company could roam about unmolested by the petulance of theinhabitants. Different opinions have been entertained concerning the formation ofthe low islands in the great ocean. From the observations which ourcommander now made, he was convinced, that such islands are formedfrom shoals, or coral banks, and, consequently, that they are alwaysincreasing. After leaving Palmerston's Island, Captain Cook steered to the west, with a view of making the best of his way to Annamooka. During hiscourse, the showers were so copious, that our navigators saved aconsiderable quantity of water. Finding that a greater supply could beobtained by the rain in one hour, than could be gotten by distillationin a month, the captain laid aside the still as a thing which wasattended with more trouble than profit. At this time, the united heatand moisture of the weather, in addition to the impossibility ofkeeping the ships dry, threatened to be noxious to the health of ourpeople. It was however, remarkable, that neither the constant use ofsalt food, nor the vicissitudes of climate, were productive of anyevil effects. Though the only material refreshment our voyagers hadreceived, since their leaving the Cape of Good Hope, was that whichthey had procured at New Zealand, there was not, as yet, a single sickperson on board. This happy situation of things was undoubtedly owingto the unremitting attention of our commander, in seeing that nocircumstance was neglected, which could contribute to the preservationof the health of his company. On the 28th of April, Captain Cook touched at the Island of Komango;and, on the 1st of May, he arrived at Annamooka. The station he tookwas the very same which he had occupied when he visited the countrythree years before; and it was probably almost in the same place whereTasman, the first discoverer of this and some of the neighbouringislands, anchored in 1643. A friendly intercourse was immediatelyopened with the natives, and every thing was settled to the captain'ssatisfaction. He received the greatest civilities from Toobou, thechief of Annamooka; and Taipa, a chief from the Island of Komango, attached himself to the English in so extraordinary a manner, that, inorder to be near them in the night, as well as in the day, he had ahouse brought on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and placedclose to the shed, which was occupied by our party on shore. On the6th our commander was visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whosename was Feenou, and who was falsely represented, by Taipa, to be theking of all the Friendly Isles. The only interruption to the harmonywhich subsisted between our people and the natives of Annamooka arosefrom the thievish disposition of many of the inhabitants. Theyafforded frequent opportunities of remarking, how expert they were inthe business of stealing. Even some of the chiefs did not think theprofession unbecoming their dignity. One of them was detected incarrying a bolt out of the ship, concealed under his clothes; forwhich Captain Cook sentenced him to have a dozen lashes, and kept himconfined till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this act ofjustice, our navigators were no longer troubled with thieves of rank:but their servants, or slaves, were still employed in the dirty work;and upon them a flogging seemed to make no greater impression that itwould have done upon the mainmast. When any of them happened to becaught in the act, so far were their masters from interceding in theirfavour, that they often advised our gentlemen to kill them. This, however, being a punishment too severe to be inflicted, they generallyescaped without being punished at all; for of the shame, as well as ofthe pain of corporal chastisement, they appeared to be equallyinsensible. At length, Captain Clerke invented a mode of treatment, which was thought to be productive of some good effect. He put thethieves into the hands of the barber, and completely shaved theirheads. In consequence of this operation, they became objects ofridicule to their own countrymen; and our people, by keeping them at adistance, were enabled to deprive them of future opportunities for arepetition of their rogueries. The island of Annamooka being exhausted of its articles of food, Captain Cook proposed, on the 11th, to proceed directly forTongataboo. From this resolution, however, he was diverted, at theinstance of Feenou, who warmly recommended in preference to it, anisland, or rather a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to thenorth-east. There, he assured our voyagers, they could be plentifullysupplied with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; and heenforced his advice by engaging to attend them thither in person. Accordingly, Hapaee was made choice of for the next station; and theexamination of it became an object with the captain, as it had neverbeen visited by any European ships. On the 17th, our commander arrived at Hapaee, where he met with a mostfriendly reception from the inhabitants, and from Earoupa, the chiefof the island. During the whole stay of our navigators, the time wasspent in a reciprocation of presents, civilities, and solemnities. Onthe part of the natives were displayed single combats with clubs, wrestling and boxing-matches, female combatants, dances performed bymen, and night entertainments of singing and dancing. The English, onthe other hand, gave pleasure to the Indians by exercising themarines, and excited their astonishment by the exhibition offireworks. After curiosity had, on both sides, been sufficientlygratified, Captain Cook applied himself to the examination of Hapaee, Lefooga, and other neighbouring islands. As the ships were returning, on the 31st, from these islands to Annamooka, the Resolution was verynear running full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa, surrounded with breakers. It fortunately happened, that the men hadjust been ordered upon deck to put the vessel about, and were most ofthem at their stations; so that the necessary movements were executednot only with judgment, but also with alertness. This alone saved theship and her company from destruction. 'Such hazardous situations, 'says the captain, 'are the unavoidable companions of the man who goesupon a voyage of discovery. ' During our commander's expedition to Hapaee, he was introduced toPoulaho, the real king of the Friendly Isles; in whose presence itinstantly appeared how groundless had been Feenou's pretensions tothat character. Feenou, however, was a chief of great note andinfluence. By Poulaho Captain Cook was invited to pass over toTongataboo, which request he complied with after he had touched, fortwo or three days, at Annamooka. In the passage, the Resolution wasinsensibly drawn upon a large flat, on which lay innumerable coralrocks of different depths below the surface of the water. Notwithstanding all the care and attention of our people to keep herclear of them, they could not prevent her from striking on one ofthese rocks. The same event happened to the Discovery; but fortunatelyneither of the ships stuck fast or received any damage. On the 10th of June, Captain Cook arrived at Tongataboo, where theking was waiting for him upon the beach, and immediately conducted himto a small, but neat house, which, he was told, was at his service, during his stay in the island. The house was situated a little withinthe skirts of the woods, and had a fine large area before it; so thata more agreeable spot could not have been provided. Our commander'sarrival at Tongataboo was followed by a succession of entertainmentssimilar to those which had occurred at Hapaee, though somewhatdiversified in circumstances, and exhibited with additional splendour. The pleasure, however, of the visit was occasionally interrupted bythe thieveries of many of the inhabitants. Nothing could prevent theirplundering our voyagers, in every quarter; and they did it in the mostdaring and insolent manner. There was scarcely any thing which theydid not attempt to steal; and yet, as the crowd was always great, thecaptain would not permit the sentinels to fire, lest the innocentshould suffer with the guilty. Captain Cook, on the 19th, made a distribution of the animals which hehad selected as presents for the principal men of the island. ToPoulaho, the king, he gave a young English bull and cow, together withthree goats; to Mareewagee, a chief of consequence, a Cape ram and twoewes; and to Feenou a horse and a mare. He likewise left in the islanda young boar and three young sows of the English breed; and tworabbits, a buck and a doe. Omai, at the same time, was instructed torepresent the importance of these animals, and to explain, as far ashe was capable of doing it, the manner in which they should bepreserved and treated. Even the generosity of the captain was notwithout its inconveniences. It soon appeared that some weredissatisfied with the allotment of the animals; for, next morning, twokids and two Turkey-cocks were missing. As our commander could notsuppose, that this was an accidental loss, he determined to have themagain. The first step he took was to seize on three canoes thathappened to be alongside the ships; after which he went on shore, andhaving found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, heimmediately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand, thatthey must remain under restraint, till not only the kid and theturkeys, but the rest of the things which, at different times, hadbeen stolen from our voyagers, should be restored. This bold step ofCaptain Cook was attended with a very good effect. Some of thearticles which had been lost were instantly brought back, and suchgood assurances were given with regard to the remainder, that, in theafternoon, the chiefs were released. It was a happy circumstance, withrespect to this transaction, that it did not abate the futureconfidence of Poulaho and his friends in the captain's kind andgenerous treatment. On the 5th of July was an eclipse of the sun, which, however, inconsequence of unfavourable weather, was very imperfectly observed. Happily, the disappointment was of little consequence, as thelongitude was more than sufficiently determined by lunar observations. Captain Cook sailed from Tongataboo on the 10th, and, two days after, came to anchor at the island of Middleburg, or Eooa, as it is calledby the inhabitants. Here he was immediately visited by Taoofa, thechief, with whom he had formerly been acquainted. The intercourse nowrenewed was friendly in the highest degree, both with Taoofa and therest of the natives; and our commander endeavoured to meliorate theircondition by planting a pineapple and sowing the seeds of melons, andother vegetables, in the chief's plantation. To this he was encouragedby a proof that his past endeavours had not been wholly unsuccessful. He had, one day, served up to him at his dinner, a dish of turnips, being the produce of the seeds which he had left at Eooa in his lastvoyage. The stay which Captain Cook made at the Friendly Islands was betweentwo and three months; during which time, some accidental differenceexcepted, there subsisted the utmost cordiality between the Englishand the natives. These differences were never attended with any fatalconsequences; which happy circumstance was principally owing to theunremitting attention of the captain, who directed all his measureswith a view to the prevention of such quarrels, as would be injuriouseither to the inhabitants or to his own people. So long as ournavigators staid at the islands, they expended very little of theirsea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the produce of thecountry, and carrying away with them a quantity of refreshments, sufficient to last till their arrival at another station, where theycould depend upon a fresh supply. It was a singular pleasure to ourcommander, that he possessed an opportunity of adding to the happinessof these good Indians, by the useful animals which he left among them. Upon the whole, the advantages of having landed at the FriendlyIslands were very great; and Captain Cook reflected upon it withpeculiar satisfaction, that these advantages were obtained withoutretarding, for a single moment, the prosecution of the great object ofhis voyage; the season for proceeding to the north having beenpreviously lost. Besides the immediate benefits which both the natives and the Englishderived from their mutual intercourse on the present occasion, such alarge addition was now made to the geographical knowledge of this partof the Pacific Ocean, as may render no small service to futurenavigators. Under the denomination of the Friendly Islands must beincluded not only the group of Hapaee, but all those islands that havebeen discovered nearly under the same meridian, to the north, as wellas some others, which, though they have never hitherto been seen byany European voyagers, are under the dominion of Tongataboo. From theinformation which our commander received, it appears, that thisarchipelago is very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islandswere reckoned up by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves toascertain their number; and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high orhilly, and thirty-five of them large. Concerning the size of thethirty-two which were unexplored, it can only be mentioned, that theymust be larger than Annamooka, which was ranked amongst the smallerisles. Several, indeed, of those which belong to this latterdenomination, are mere spots, without inhabitants. Captain Cook hadnot the least doubt but that Prince William's Islands, discovered andso named by Tasman, were comprehended in the list furnished by thenatives. He had also good authority for believing that Keppel's andBoscawen's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries to 1765, wereincluded in the same list; and that they were under the sovereign ofTongataboo, which is the grand seat of government. It must be left tofuture navigators to extend the geography of this part of the SouthPacific Ocean, by ascertaining the exact situation and size of nearlya hundred islands, in the neighbourhood, which our commander had noopportunity of exploring. During the present visit to the Friendly Islands, large additions weremade to the knowledge which was obtained, in the last voyage, of thenatural history and productions of the country, and the manners andcustoms of its inhabitants. Though it does not fall within the plan ofthis narrative to enter into a detail of the particulars recorded, Icannot help taking notice of the explanation which Captain Cook hasgiven of the thievish disposition of the natives. It is an explanationwhich reflects honour upon his sagacity, humanity, and candour andtherefore I shall relate it in his own words: 'The only defect, ' sayshe, 'sullying their character, that we know of, is a propensity tothieving; to which we found those of all ages, and both sexes, addicted, and to an uncommon degree. It should, however, beconsidered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct seemed toexist merely with respect to us; for, in their general intercoursewith one another, I had reason to be of opinion, that thefts do nothappen more frequently (perhaps less so) than in other countries, thedishonest practices of whose worthless individuals are not supposed toauthorize any indiscriminate censure on the whole body of the people. Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor nativesof the Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the glare ofobjects, equally new to them as they were captivating. Stealing, amongthe civilized nations of the world, may well be considered as denotinga character deeply stained with moral turpitude: with avarice, unrestrained by the known rules of right; and with profligacy, producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it. But at the Friendly and other islands which we visited, the thefts, sofrequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along withus, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They seemed toarise solely from an intense curiosity or desire to possess somethingwhich they had not been accustomed to before, and belonging to a sortof people so different from themselves. And, perhaps, if it werepossible, that a set of beings, seemingly, as superior in ourjudgment, as we are in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might bedoubted, whether our natural regard to justice would be able torestrain many from falling into the same error. That I have assignedthe true motive for their propensity to this practice, appears fromtheir stealing every thing indiscriminately at first sight, beforethey could have the least conception of converting their prize to anyone useful purpose. But, I believe, with us, no person would forfeithis reputation, or expose himself to punishment, without knowing, beforehand, how to employ the stolen goods. Upon the whole, thepilfering disposition of these islanders, though certainlydisagreeable and troublesome to strangers, was the means of affordingus some information as to the quickness of their intellects. ' With respect to the religion of these Indians, Mr. Anderson maintains, that they have very proper sentiments concerning the immateriality andimmortality of the soul; and thinks himself sufficiently authorized toassert, that they do not worship any thing which is the work of theirown hands, or any visible part of the creation. The language of theFriendly Islands has the greatest imaginable conformity with that ofNew Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea. Several hundreds of the words ofit were collected by Mr. Anderson; and amongst these, are terms thatexpress numbers reaching to a hundred thousand. Beyond this limit theynever went, and probably were not able to go farther; for it wasobserved, that when they had gotten thus far, they commonly used aword which expresses an indefinite number. On the 17th of July, our commander took his final leave of theFriendly Islands, and resumed his voyage. An eclipse was observed inthe night between the 20th and the 21st; and on the 8th of August landwas discovered. Some of the inhabitants, who came off in canoes, seemed earnestly to invite our people to go on shore; but Captain Cookdid not think proper to run the risk of losing the advantage of a fairwind, for the sake of examining an island which appeared to be oflittle consequence. Its name, as was learned from the natives, whospake the Otaheite language, is Toobonai. Pursuing his course, the captain reached Otaheite on the 12th, andsteered for Oheitepeha Bay, with an intention to anchor there, inorder to draw what refreshments he could from the south-east part ofthe island, before he went down to Matavai. Omai's first receptionamongst his countrymen was not entirely of a flattering nature. Thoughseveral persons came on board who knew him, and one of them was hisbrother-in-law, there was nothing remarkably tender or striking intheir meeting. An interview which Omai had, on the 13th, with hissister, was agreeable to the feelings of nature; for their meeting wasmarked with expressions of tender affection, more easy to be conceivedthan described. In a visit, likewise, which he received from an aunt, the old lady threw herself at his feet, and plentifully bedewed themwith tears of joy. Captain Cook was informed by the natives, that, since he was last atthe island, in 1774, two ships had been twice in Oheitepeha Bay, andhad left animals in the country. These, on farther inquiry, were foundto be hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and a ram. That the vessels whichhad visited Otaheite were Spanish, was plain from an inscription thatwas cut upon a wooden cross, standing at some distance from the frontof a house which had been occupied by the strangers. On the transversepart of the cross was inscribed, _Christus vincit. _ And on the perpendicular part, _Carolus III. Imperat. 1774. _ Our commander took this occasion to preserve the memory of the priorvisits of the English, by inscribing, on the other side of the post, _Georgius tertius Rex. Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777. _ Whatever might be the intentions of the Spaniards in their visit tothe island, it ought to be remembered to their honour, that theybehaved so well to the inhabitants, as always to be spoken of in thestrongest expressions of esteem and veneration. Captain Cook had at this time an important affair to settle. As heknew that he could now be furnished with a plentiful supply ofcocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an excellent and wholesomebeverage, he was desirous of prevailing upon his people to consent totheir being abridged, during their stay at Otaheite and theneighbouring islands, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix withwater. But as this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigningsome reason for it, might occasion a general murmur, he thought itmost prudent to assemble the ship's company, and to make known to themthe design of the voyage, and the extent of the future operations. Toanimate them in undertaking with cheerfulness and perseverance whatlay before them he took notice of the rewards offered by parliament, to such of his majesty's subjects as should first discover acommunication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, in anydirection whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and also to such asshould first penetrate beyond the eighty-ninth degree of northernlatitude. The captain made no doubt, he told them, that he should findthem willing to co-operate with him in attempting as far as might bepossible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that, to give the best chance of success, it would be necessary to observethe utmost economy in the expenditure of the stores and provisions, particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting asupply any where, after leaving these islands. He strengthened hisargument by reminding them, that, in consequence of the opportunity'shaving been lost of getting to the north this summer, the voyage mustlast at least a year longer than had originally been supposed. Heentreated them to consider the various obstructions and difficultiesthey might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships they wouldendure, if it should be found necessary to put them to shortallowance, of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. For thesevery substantial reasons, he submitted to them, whether it would notbe better to be prudent in time, and, rather than to incur the hazardof having no spirits left, when such a cordial would most be wanted, to consent to give up their grog now, when so excellent a liquor asthat of cocoa-nuts could be substituted in its place. In conclusion, our commander left the determination of the matter entirely to theirown choice. This speech which certainly partook much of the nature of trueeloquence, if a discourse admirably calculated for persuasion beentitled to that character, produced its full effect on the generousminds of English seamen. Captain Cook had the satisfaction of findingthat his proposal did not remain a single moment under consideration;being unanimously and immediately approved of, without the leastobjection. By our commander's order, Captain Clerke made the sameproposal to his people, to which they, likewise, agreed. Accordingly, grog was no longer served, excepting on Saturday nights; when thecompanies of both ships had a full allowance of it, that they mightdrink the healths of their friends in England. On the 24th, Captain Cook quitted the south-east part of Otaheite, andresumed his old station in Matavia Bay. Immediately upon his arrival, he was visited by Otoo, the king of the whole island, and their formerfriendship was renewed; a friendship which was continued withoutinterruption, and cemented by a perpetual succession of civilities, good offices, and entertainments. One of our commander's first objectswas to dispose of all the European animals which were in the ships. Accordingly, he conveyed to Oparre, Otoo's place of residence, apeacock and hen; a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, adrake and four ducks. The geese and ducks began to breed before ournavigators left their present station. There were already, at Otoo's, several goats, and the Spanish bull; which was one of the finestanimals of the kind that was ever seen. To the bull Captain Cook sentthe three cows he had on board, together with a bull of his own; toall which were added the horse and mare, and the sheep that had stillremained in the vessels. The captain found himself lightened of a very heavy burden, in havingdisposed of these passengers. It is not easy to conceive the troubleand vexation, which had attended the conveyance of this living cargo, through such various hazards, and to so immense a distance. But thesatisfaction which our commander felt, in having been so fortunate asto fulfil his majesty's humane designs, in sending such valuableanimals, to supply the wants of the two worthy nations, afforded himan ample recompense for the many anxious hours he had passed, beforethis subordinate object of his voyage could be carried into execution. At this time a war was on the point of breaking out, between theinhabitants of Eimeo and those of Otaheite; and by the latter CaptainCook was requested to take a part in their favour. With this request, however, though enforced by frequent and urgent solicitations, thecaptain, according to his usual wisdom, refused to comply. He alleged, that, as he was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and thepeople of Eimeo had never offended him, he could not think himself atliberty to engage in hostilities against them. With these reasons Otooand most of the chiefs appeared to be satisfied; but one of them, Towha, was so highly displeased, that our commander never afterwardrecovered his friendship. Upon the present occasion, Captain Cook had full and undeniable proof, that the offering of human sacrifices forms a part of the religiousinstitutions of Otaheite. Indeed, he was a witness to a solemnity ofthis kind; the process of which he has particularly described, and hasrelated it with the just sentiments of indignation and abhorrence. Theunhappy victim, who was now offered to the object of worship, seemedto be a middle-aged man, and was said to be one of the lowest class ofthe people. But the captain could not learn, after all his inquiries, whether the wretch had been fixed upon on account of his havingcommitted any crime which was supposed to be deserving of death. It iscertain, that a choice is generally, made either of such guiltypersons for the sacrifices, or of common low fellows, who stroll aboutfrom place to place, without any visible methods of obtaining anhonest subsistence. Those who are devoted to suffer, are neverapprised of their fate, till the blow is given, that puts an end totheir being. Whenever, upon any particular emergency, one of the greatchiefs considers a human sacrifice to be necessary, he pitches uponthe victim, and then orders him to be suddenly fallen upon and killed, either with clubs or stones. Although it should be supposed, that nomore than one person is ever devoted to destruction on any singleoccasion, at Otaheite, it will still be found that these occurrencesare so frequent, as to cause a shocking waste of the human race; forour commander counted no less than forty-nine skulls of formervictims, lying before the Morai, where he had seen another added tothe number. It was apparent, from the freshness of these skulls, thatno great length of time had elapsed since the wretches to whom theybelonged had been offered upon the altar of blood. There is reason to fear, that this custom is as extensive as it ishorrid. It is highly probable that it prevails throughout the widelydiffused islands of the Pacific Ocean; and Captain Cook had particularevidence of its subsisting at the Friendly Islands. To what an extentthe practice of human sacrifices was carried in the ancient world, isnot unknown to the learned. Scarcely any nation was free from it in acertain state of society; and, as religious reformation is one of thelast efforts of the human mind, the practice may be continued, evenwhen the manners are otherwise far removed from savage life. It mayhave been a long time before civilization has made such a progress asto deprive superstition of its cruelty, and to divert it frombarbarous rites to ceremonies which, though foolish enough, arecomparatively mild, gentle and innocent. On the 5th of September, an accident happened, which, though slight initself, was of some consequence from the situation of things. A youngram of the Cape breed, which had been lambed and brought up with greatcare on board the ship, as killed by a dog. Desirous as Captain Cookwas of propagating so useful a race among the Society Islands, theloss of a ram was a serious misfortune. It was the only one he had ofthat breed; and of the English breed a single ram was all thatremained. Captain Cook and Captain Clerke, on the 14th, mounted on horseback, and took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the great surprise of alarge number of the natives, who attended upon the occasion, and gazedupon the gentlemen with as much astonishment as if they bad beenCentaurs. What the two captains had begun was afterward repeated everyday, by one and another of our people; notwithstanding which, thecuriosity of the Otaheitans still continued unabated. They wereexceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the usewhich was made of them. Not all the novelties put together, whichEuropean visitors had carried amongst the inhabitants, inspired themwith so high an idea of the greatness of distant nations. Though Captain Cook would not take a part in the quarrels between theislands, he was ready to protect his particular friends, when indanger of being injured. Towha, who commanded the expedition againstEimeo, had been obliged to submit to a disgraceful accommodation. Being full of resentment, on account of his not having been properlysupported, he was said to have threatened, that, as soon as thecaptain should leave the island, he would join his forces to those ofTiaraboo, and attack Otoo, at Matavai or Oparre. This induced ourcommander to declare, in the most public manner, that he wasdetermined to espouse the interest of his friend, against any suchcombination; and that, whoever presumed to assault him, should feelthe weight of his heavy displeasure, when he returned again toOtaheite. Captain Cook's declaration had probably the desired effect;for, if Towha had formed hostile intentions, no more was heard of thematter. The manner in which our commander was freed from a rheumaticcomplaint, that consisted of a pain extending from the hip to thefoot, deserves to be recorded. Otoo's mother, his three sisters, andeight other women went on board, for the express purpose ofundertaking the cure of his disorder. He accepted of their friendlyoffer, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submittedhimself to their directions. Being desired to lay himself down amongstthem, then, as many of them as could get round him began to squeezehim with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly in thepart where the pain was lodged till they made his bones crack, and hisflesh became a perfect mummy. After undergoing this discipline about aquarter of an hour, he was glad to be released from the women. Theoperation, however gave him immediate relief; so that he wasencouraged to submit to another rubbing down before he went to bed;the consequence of which was, that he was tolerably easy all thesucceeding night. His female physicians repeated their prescriptionthe next morning, and again in the evening; after which his pains wereentirely removed, and the cure was perfected. This operation, which iscalled _romee_, is universally practised among these islanders;being sometimes, performed by the men, but more generally by thewomen. Captain Cook, who now had come to the resolution of departing soonfrom Otaheite, accompanied, on the 27th, Otoo to Oparre, and examinedthe cattle and poultry, which he had consigned to his friend's care atthat place. Everything was in a promising way, and properly attended. The captain procured from Otoo four goats; two of which he designed toleave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced; and the othertwo he proposed to reserve for the use of any islands he might chanceto meet with in his passage to the north. On the next day, Oleo cameon board, and informed our commander that he had gotten a canoe, whichhe desired him to carry home, as a present to the Earee rahie noPretane. This, he said, was the only thing he could send which wasworthy of his majesty's, acceptance. Captain Cook was not a littlepleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude; and the more, asthe thought was entirely his own. Not one of our people had given himthe least hint concerning it; and it shewed, that he was fullysensible to whom he stood indebted for the most valueable presentsthat he had received. As the canoe was too large to be taken on board, the captain could only thank him for his good intentions; but it wouldhave given him a much greater satisfaction, if his present could havebeen accepted. During this visit of our voyagers to Otaheite, such a cordialfriendship and confidence subsisted between them and the natives, asnever once to be interrupted by any untoward accident. Our commanderhad made the chiefs fully sensible, that it was their interest totreat with him on fair and equitable terms, and to keep their peoplefrom plundering or stealing. So great was Otoo's attachment to theEnglish, that he seemed pleased with the idea of their having apermanent settlement at Matavai; not considering, that from that timehe would be deprived of his kingdom, and the inhabitants of theirliberties. Captain Cook had too much gratitude and regard for theseislanders, to wish that such an event should ever take place. Thoughour occasional visits may, in some respects, have been of advantage tothe natives, he was afraid that a durable establishment among them, conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations haveunfortunately been, would give them just cause to lament that they hadbeen discovered by our navigators. It is not, indeed, likely that ameasure of this kind should at any time seriously be adopted, becauseit cannot serve either the, purposes of public ambition, or privateavarice; and, without such inducements, the captain has ventured topronounce that it will never be undertaken. From Otaheite our voyagers sailed, on the 30th, to Eimeo, where theycame to an anchor on the same day. At this island the transactionswhich happened were, for the most part, very unpleasant. A goat, whichwas stolen, was recovered without any extraordinary difficulty, andone of the thieves was, at the same time, surrendered; being the firstinstance of the kind that our commander had met with in his connexionswith the Society Islands. The stealing of another goat was attendedwith an uncommon degree of perplexity and trouble. As the recovery ofit was a matter of no small importance, Captain Cook was determined toeffect this at any rate; and accordingly he made an expedition acrossthe island, in the course of which he set fire to six or eight houses, and burned a number of war canoes. At last, in consequence of aperemptory message to Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, that not a singlecanoe should be left in the country, or an end be put to the contest, unless the animal in his possession should be restored, the goat wasbrought back. This quarrel was as much regretted on the part of thecaptain, as it could be on that of the natives. It grieved him toreflect, that, after refusing the pressing solicitations of hisfriends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of this island, he shouldfind himself so speedily reduced to the necessity of engaging, inhostilities against its inhabitants; and in such hostilities as, perhaps, had been more injurious to them than Towha's expedition. On the 11th of October, the ships departed from Eimeo, and the nextday arrived at Owharre harbour, on the west side of Huaheine. Thegrand business of our commander at this island was the settlement ofOmai. In order to obtain the consent of the chiefs of the island, theaffair was conducted with great solemnity. Omai dressed himself veryproperly on the occasion; brought with him a suitable assortment ofpresents; went through a variety of religious ceremonies; and made aspeech, the topics of which had been dictated to him by our commander. The result of the negotiation was, that a spot of ground was assignedhim, the extent of which, along the shore of the harbour was about twohundred yards; and its depth to the foot of the hill somewhat more. Aproportionable part of the hill was included in the grant. Thisbusiness having been adjusted in a satisfactory manner, the carpentersof both ships were employed in building a small house for Omai, inwhich he might secure his European commodities. At the same time, someof the English made a garden for his use, in which they plantedshaddocks, vines, pineapples, melons, and the seeds of several othervegetable articles. All of these Captain Cook bad the satisfaction ofseeing in a flourishing state before he left the island. At Huaheine, Omai found a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law, bywhom he was received with great regard and tenderness. But thoughthese people were faithful and affectionate in their attachment tohim, the captain discovered, with concern, that they were of toolittle consequence in the island to be capable of rendering him anypositive service. They had not either authority or influence toprotect his person or property; and, in such a situation, there wasreason to apprehend, that he might be in danger of being stripped ofall his possessions, as soon as he should cease to be supported by thepower of the English. To prevent this evil, if possible, our commanderadvised him to conciliate the favour and engage the patronage andprotection of two or three of the principal chiefs, by a properdistribution of some of his moveables; with which advice he prudentlycomplied. Captain Cook, however, did not entirely trust to theoperations of gratitude, but had recourse to the more forcible motiveof intimidation. With this view, he took every opportunity ofsignifying to the inhabitants, that it was his intention to return tothe island again, after being absent the usual time; and that, if hedid not find Omai in the same state of security in which he left him, all those whom he should then discover to have been his enemies shouldfeel the weight of his resentment. As the natives had now formed anopinion that their country would be visited by the ships of England atstated periods, there was ground to hope, that this threateningdeclaration would produce no inconsiderable effect. When Omai's house was nearly finished, and many of his moveables werecarried ashore, a box of toys excited the admiration of the multitudein a much higher degree than articles of a more useful nature. Withregard to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, glasses, and the whole train of domestic accommodations, which in ourestimation are so necessary and important, scarcely any one of hiscountrymen would condescend to look upon them. Omai himself, beingsensible that these pieces of English furniture would be of no greatconsequence in his present situation, wisely sold a number of them, among the people of the ships, for hatchets, and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and wouldgive him a more distinguished superiority over those with whom he wasto pass the remainder of his days. Omai's family, when he settled at Huaheine, consisted of eight or tenpersons, if that can be called a family to which a single female didnot as yet belong, nor was likely to belong, unless its master shouldbecome less volatile. There was nothing in his present temper whichseemed likely to dispose him to look out for a wife; and, perhaps, itis to be apprehended, that his residence in England had notcontributed to improve his taste for the sober felicity of a domesticunion with some woman of his own country. The European weapons of Omai consisted of a musket, bayonet, andcarteuch box; a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or threeswords or cutlasses. With the possession of these warlike implements, he was highly delighted; and it was only to gratify his eager desirefor them that Captain Cook was induced to make him such presents. Thecaptain would otherwise have thought it happier for him to be withoutfire-arms, or any European weapons, lest an imprudent use of them (andprudence was not his most distinguished talent) should rather increasehis dangers than establish his superiority. Though it was no smallsatisfaction to our commander to reflect, that he had brought Omaisafe back to the very spot from which he had been taken, thissatisfaction was, nevertheless, somewhat diminished by theconsideration, that his situation might now be less desirable than itwas before his connexion with the English. It was to be feared, thatthe advantages which he had derived from his visit to England wouldplace him in a more hazardous state, with respect to his personalsafety. Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were overbalancedby his good nature and his gratitude. He had a tolerable share ofunderstanding, but it was not accompanied with application andperseverance; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and inmost instances imperfect: nor was he a man of much observation. Hewould not, therefore, be able to introduce many of the arts andcustoms of England among his countrymen, or greatly to improve thoseto which they have long been habituated. Captain Cook, however, wasconfident, that he would endeavour to bring to perfection the fruitsand vegetables which had been planted in his garden. This of itselfwould be no small acquisition to the natives. But the greatest benefitwhich these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels, will bein the animals that are left upon them; and which, had it not been forhis coming to England, they might probably never have obtained. Whenthese multiply, of which Captain Cook thought there was little reasonto doubt, Otaheite and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, any country in the known world, for plenty of provisions. Before our commander sailed from Huaheine, he had the followinginscription cut on the outside of Omai's house: _Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. Naves { { Discovery, Car. Clerk, Pr. _ On the same day, Omai took his final leave of our navigators, in doingwhich, he bade farewell to all the officers in a very affectionatemanner. He sustained himself with a manly resolution, till he came toCaptain Cook, when his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed; andhe continued to weep all the time that the boat was conveying him toshore. Not again to resume the subject I shall here mention, that whenthe captain was at Ulietea, a fortnight after this event, Omai senttwo men with the satisfactory intelligence, that he remainedundisturbed by the people of Huaheine, and that every thing succeededwell with him, excepting in the loss of his goat, which had died inkidding. This intelligence was accompanied with a request, thatanother goat might be given him, together with two axes. Ourcommander, esteeming himself happy in having an additional opportunityof serving him, dispatched the messengers back with the axes and acouple of kids, male and female, which were spared for him out of theDiscovery. The fate of the two youths, who had been brought from New Zealand, must not be forgotten. As they were extremely desirous of continuingwith our people, Captain Cook would have carried them to England withhim, if there had appeared the most distant probability of their everbeing restored to their own country. Tiarooa, the eldest of them, wasa very well disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and acapacity of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully convincedof the inferiority of New Zealand to these islands, and resignedhimself, though not without some degree of reluctance, to end hisdays, in ease and plenty, in Huaheine. The other had formed so strongan attachment to our navigators, that it was necessary to take him outof the ship, and carry him ashore by force. This necessity was themore painful as he was a witty, smart boy: and, on that account, agreat favourite on board. Both these youths became a part of Omai'sfamily. Whilst our voyagers were at Huaheine, the atrocious conduct of oneparticular thief occasioned so much trouble, that the captain punishedhim more severely than he had ever done any culprit before. Besideshaving his head and beard shaved, he ordered both his ears to be cutoff, and then dismissed him. It can scarcely be reflected upon withoutregret, that our commander should have been compelled to such an actof severity. On the 3rd of November, the ships came to an anchor in the harbour ofOhamaneno, in the island of Ulietea. The observatories being set up onthe 6th, and the necessary instruments having been carried on shore, the two following days were employed in making astronomicalobservations. In the night between the 12th and 13th, John Harrison, amarine, who was sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with himhis arms and accoutrements. Captain Cook exerted himself on thisoccasion, with his usual vigour. He went himself in pursuit of thedeserter, who, after some evasion on the part of the inhabitants, wassurrendered. He was found sitting between two women, with the musketlying before him; and all the defence he was able to make was, that hehad been enticed away by the natives. As this account was probably thetruth, and as it appeared besides, that he had remained upon his posttill within ten minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved, the punishment which the captain inflicted upon him was not verysevere. Some days after, a still more troublesome affair happened, of the samenature. On the morning of the 24th, the captain was informed that amidshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, weremissing; and it soon appeared, that they had gone away in a canoe inthe preceding evening, and had now reached the other end of theisland. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire ofremaining at these islands, it was evident, that he and his companionhad gone off with that intention. Though Captain Clerke immediatelyset out in quest of them with two armed boats, and a party of marines, his expedition proved fruitless, the natives having amused him thewhole day with false intelligence. The next morning an account wasbrought that the deserters were at Otaha. As they were not the onlypersons in the ships who wished to spend their days at these favouriteislands, it became necessary for the purpose of preventing any fartherdesertion, to recover them at all events. Captain Cook, therefore, inorder to convince the inhabitants that he was in earnest, resolved togo after the fugitives himself; to which measure he was determined, from having observed, in repeated instances, that the natives hadseldom offered to deceive him with false information. Agreeably to this resolution, the captain set out, the next morning, with two armed boats, being accompanied by Oree, the chief of Ulietea, and proceeded immediately to Otaha. But when he had gotten to theplace where the deserters were expected to be found, he was acquaintedthat they were gone over to Bolabola. Thither our commander did notthink proper to follow them having determined to pursue anothermeasure, which he judged would more effectually answer his purpose. This measure was to put the chief's son, daughter, and son-in-law, into confinement, and to detain them till the fugitives should berestored. As to Oree, he was informed, that he was at liberty to leavethe ship whenever he pleased, and to take such methods as he esteemedbest calculated to get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, hisfriends should be released; if not, that Captain Cook was resolved tocarry them away with him. The captain added, that the chief's ownconduct, as well as that of many of his people, in assisting therunaways to escape, and in enticing others to follow them, wouldjustify any step that could be taken to put a stop to suchproceedings. In consequence of this explanation of our commander'sviews and intentions, Oree zealously exerted himself to recover thedeserters, for which purpose he dispatched a canoe to Bolabola, with amessage to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, acquainting him withwhat had happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives andsend them back. The messenger, who was no less a person than thefather of Pootoe, Oree's son-in-law, came, before he set out, toCaptain Cook, to receive his commands; which were, not to returnwithout the runaways, and to inform Opoony, that, if they had leftBolabola, he must dispatch canoes in pursuit of them, till they shouldfinally be restored. These vigorous measures were, at length, successful. On the 28th the deserters were brought back; and, as soonas they were on board, the three prisoners were released. Ourcommander would not have acted so resolutely on the present occasion, had he not been peculiarly solicitous to save the son of a brotherofficer from being lost to his country. While this affair was in suspense, some of the natives, from theiranxiety on account of the confinement of the chief's relations, hadformed a design of a very serious nature; which was no less than toseize upon the persons of Captain Clerke and Captain Cook. With regardto Captain Clerke, they made no secret of speaking of their scheme, the day after it was discovered. But their first and grand plan ofoperations was to lay hold of Captain Cook. It was his custom tobathe, every evening, in fresh water; in doing which he frequentlywent alone, and always without arms. As the inhabitants expected himto go, as usual, on the evening of the 26th, they had determined atthat time to make him a prisoner. But he had thought it prudent, afterconfining Oree's family, to avoid putting himself in their power; andhad cautioned Captain Clerke, and the officers, not to venturethemselves far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon, thechief asked Captain Cook, three several times, if he would not go tothe bathing-place; and when he found, at last, that the captain couldnot be prevailed upon, he went off, with all his people. He wasapprehensive, without doubt, that the design was discovered; though nosuspicion of it was then entertained by our commander, who imagined, that the natives were seized with some sudden fright, from which, asusual, they would quickly recover. On one occasion, Captain Clerke andMr. Gore were in particular danger. A party of the inhabitants, armedwith clubs, advanced against them; and their safety was principallyowing to Captain Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which heonce fired. The discovery of the conspiracy, especially so far asrespected Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, was made by a girl, whom one ofthe officers had brought from Huaheine. On this account, those whowere charged with the execution of the design were so greatly offendedwith her, that they threatened to take away her life, as soon as ournavigators should leave the island: but proper methods were pursuedfor her security. It was a happy circumstance that the affair wasbrought to light; since such a scheme could not have been carried intoeffect, without being, in its consequences, productive of muchdistress and calamity to the natives. Whilst Captain Cook was at Ulietea, he was visited by his old friendOree, who, in the former voyages, was chief, or rather regent, ofHuaheine. Notwithstanding his now being, in some degree, reduced tothe rank of a private person he still preserved his consequence; neverappeared without a numerous body of attendants; and was alwaysprovided with such presents, as indicated his wealth, and were highlyacceptable. The last of the Society Islands to which our commander sailed wasBolabola, where he arrived on the 8th of December. His chief view inpassing over to this island was to procure from its monarch, Opoony, an anchor which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite, andwhich had been conveyed to Bolabola. It was not from a want of anchorsthat Captain Cook was desirous of making the purchase, but to convertthe iron of which it consisted into a fresh assortment of tradingarticles, these being now very much exhausted. The captain succeededin his negotiation, and amply rewarded Opoony for giving up theanchor. Whilst our commander was at Bolabola, he received an account of thosemilitary expeditions of the people of this country, which he had heardmuch of in each of his three voyages, and which had ended in thecomplete conquest of Ulietea and Otaha. The Bolabola men, inconsequence of these enterprises, where in the highest reputation fortheir valour; and, indeed, were deemed so invincible, as to be theobjects of terror to all the neighbouring islands. It was an additionto their fame, that their country was of such small extent, being notmore than eight leagues in compass, and not half so large as Ulietea. Captain Cook continued to the last his zeal for furnishing the nativesof the South Sea with useful animals. At Bolabola, where there wasalready a ram, which had originally been left by the Spaniards atOtaheite, he carried ashore an ewe, that had been brought from theCape of Good Hope; and he rejoiced in the prospect of laying afoundation, by this present, for a breed of sheep in the island. Heleft also at Ulietea, under the care of Oree, an English boar and sow, and two goats. It may, therefore, be regarded as certain, that notonly Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands, will, in a few years, have their race of hogs considerably improved; and it is probable, that they will be stocked with all the valuable animals, which havebeen transported thither by their European visitors. When this shallbe accomplished, no part of the world will equal these islands, in thevariety and abundance of the refreshments which they will be able toafford to navigators; nor did the captain know any place that excelledthem, even in their present state. It is an observation of great importance, that the future felicity ofthe inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society Islands, will not alittle depend on their continuing to be visited from Europe. Ourcommander could not avoid expressing it as his real opinion, that itwould have been far better for these poor people, never to have knownour superiority in the accommodations and arts which render lifecomfortable, than after once knowing it, to be again left andabandoned to their original incapacity of improvement. If theintercourse between them and us should wholly be discontinued, theycannot be restored to that happy mediocrity, in which they livedbefore they were first discovered. It seemed to Captain Cook, that itwas become, in a manner, incumbent upon the Europeans to visit theseislands once in three or four years, in order to supply the nativeswith those conveniences which we have introduced among them, and forwhich we have given them a predilection. Perhaps they may heavily feelthe want of such occasional supplies, when it may be too late to goback to their old and less perfect contrivances; contrivances whichthey now despise, and which they have discontinued since theintroduction of ours. It is, indeed, to be apprehended, that by thetime that the iron tools, of which they had become possessed, are wornout, they will have almost lost the knowledge of their own. In thislast voyage of our commander, a stone hatchet was as rare a thingamong the inhabitants as an iron one was eight years before; and achisel of bone or stone was not to be seen. Spike nails had succeededin their place; and of spike nails the natives were weak enough toimagine that they had gotten an inexhaustible store. Of all ourcommodities, axes, and hatchets remained the most unrivalled; and theymust ever be held in the highest estimation through the whole of theislands. Iron tools are so strikingly useful, and are now become sonecessary to the comfortable existence of the inhabitants, that, should they cease to receive supplies of them, their situation, inconsequence of their neither possessing the materials, nor beingtrained up to the art of fabricating them, would be renderedcompletely miserable. It is impossible to reflect upon thisrepresentation of things without strong feelings of sympathy andconcern. Sincerely is it to be wished, that such may be the order ofevents, and such the intercourse carried on with the southernislanders, that, instead of finally suffering by their acquaintancewith us, they may rise to a higher state of civilization, andpermanently enjoy blessings far superior to what they had heretoforeknown. Amidst the various subordinate employments which engaged the attentionof Captain Cook and his associates, the great objects of their dutywere never forgotten. No opportunity was lost of making astronomicaland nautical observations; the consequence of which was, that thelatitude and longitude of the places where the ships anchored, thevariations of the compass, the dips of the needle, and the state ofthe tides, were ascertained with an accuracy that forms a valuableaddition to philosophical science, and will be of eminent service tofuture navigators. Our commander was now going to take his final departure from Otaheiteand the Society Islands. Frequently as they had been visited, it mighthave been imagined, that their religious, political, and domesticregulations, manners and customs, must, by this time, be thoroughlyunderstood. A great accession of knowledge was undoubtedly gained inthe present voyage; and yet it was confessed, both by Captain Cook andMr. Anderson, that their accounts of things were still imperfect invarious respects; and that they continued strangers to many of themost important institutions which prevail among the natives. There wasone part of the character of several of these people, on which thewell regulated mind of the captain would not permit him to enlarge. 'Too much, ' says he, 'seems to have been already known, and publishedin our former relations, about some of the modes of life, that madeOtaheite, so agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and if Icould now add any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines ofwhich have been already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should stillhave hesitated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view oflicentious manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whoseinformation I write. From Mr. Anderson's account of the Otaheitans, it appears, that theirreligious system is extensive, and, in various instances, singular. They do not seem to pay respect to one God as possessing pre-eminence, but believe in a plurality of divinities, all of whom are supposed tobe very powerful. In different parts of the island, and in theneighbouring islands, the inhabitants choose those deities for theobjects of their worship, who, they think, are most likely to protectthem, and to supply all their wants. If, however, they aredisappointed in their expectations, they deem it no impiety to changetheir divinity, by having recourse to another, whom they hope to findmore propitious and successful. In general, their notions concerningDeity are extravagantly absurd. With regard to the soul, they believeit, according to Mr. Anderson, to be both immaterial and immortal; buthe acknowledges, that they are far from entertaining those sublimeexpectations of future happiness which the Christian revelationaffords, and which even reason alone, duly exercised might teach us toexpect. Although seventeen months had elapsed since Captain Cook's departurefrom England, during which time he had not, upon the whole, beenunprofitably employed, he was sensible that, with respect to theprincipal object of his instructions, it was now only the commencementof his voyage and that, therefore, his attention was to be called anewto every circumstance which might contribute towards the safety of hispeople, and the ultimate success of the expedition. Accordingly, hehad examined into the state of the provisions, whilst he was at theSociety Islands, and, as soon as he had left them, and had gottenbeyond the extent of his former discoveries, he ordered a survey to betaken of all the boatswain's and carpenters stores which were in theships, that he might be fully informed of their quantity andcondition; and, by that means, know how to use them to the greatestadvantage. It was on the 8th of December, the very day on which he had touchedthere, that our commander sailed from Bolabola. In the night betweenthe 22nd and 23rd, he crossed the line, in the longitude of 203° 15'east; and on the 24th land was discovered, which was found to be oneof those low uninhabited islands, that are so frequent in this ocean. Here our voyagers were successful in catching a large quantity ofturtle, which supplied them with an agreeable refreshment; and here, on the 28th, an eclipse of the sun was observed by Mr. Bayley, Mr. King, and Captain Cook. On account of the season of the year, thecaptain called the land where he now was, and which he judged to beabout fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, Christmas Island. Byhis order, several cocoa-nuts and yams were planted, and some melonseeds sown in proper places; and a bottle was left, containing thisinscription: _Georgius Tertius, Rex. 31 Decembris, 1777. { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. Naves { { Discovery. Car. Clerke, Pr. _ On the 2nd of January, 1778, the ships resumed their course to thenorthward, and though several evidences occurred of the vicinity ofland, none was discovered till the 18th, when an island made itsappearance, bearing north-east by east. Soon after, more land wasseen, lying towards the north, and entirely detached from the former. The succeeding day was distinguished by the discovery of a thirdisland in the direction of west-north-west, and as far distant as theeye could reach. In steering towards the second island, our voyagershad some doubt whether the land before them was inhabited; but thismatter was speedily cleared up, by the putting off of some canoes fromthe shore, containing from three to six men each. Upon their approach, the English were agreeably surprised to find, that they spoke thelanguage of Otaheite, and of the other countries which had lately beenvisited. These people were at first fearful of going on board; butwhen, on the 20th, some of them took courage, and ventured to do it, they expressed an astonishment, on entering the ship, which CaptainCook had never experienced in the natives of any place during thewhole course of his several voyages. Their eyes continually flew fromobject to object; and, by the wildness of their looks and gestures, they fully manifested their entire ignorance with relation to everything they saw, and strongly marked to our navigators, that, till thistime, they had never been visited by Europeans, or been acquaintedwith any of our commodities, excepting iron. Even with respect toiron, it was evident that they had only heard of it, or at most, hadknown it in some small quantity, brought to them at a distant period;for all they understood concerning it was, that it was a substancemuch better adapted to the purpose of cutting, or boring of holes, than any thing their own country produced. Their ceremonies onentering the ship, their gestures and motions, and their manner ofsinging, were similar to those which our voyagers had been accustomedto see in the places lately visited. There was, likewise, a farthercircumstance in which these people perfectly resembled the otherislanders: and that was, in their endeavouring to steal whatever camewithin their reach; or rather to take it openly, as what would eithernot be resented or not hindered. The English soon convinced them oftheir mistake, by keeping such a watchful eye over them that theyafterwards were obliged to be less active in appropriating tothemselves every object that struck upon their fancy and excited thedesire of possession. One order given by Captain Cook at this island was that none of theboats' crews should be permitted to go on shore; the reason of whichwas, that he might do every thing in his power to prevent theimportation of a fatal disease, which unhappily had already beencommunicated in other places. With the same view, he directed that allfemale visitors should be excluded from the ships. Another necessaryprecaution, taken by the captain, was a strict injunction, that noperson known to be capable of propagating disorder should be sent uponduty out of the vessels. Thus zealous was the humanity of ourcommander, to prevent an irreparable injury from being done to thenatives. There are men who glory in their shame, and who do not carehow much evil they communicate. Of this there was an instance atTongataboo, in the gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed onshore to manage the trade for that ship; and who, though he was wellacquainted with his own situation, continued to have connexions withdifferent women. His companions expostulated with him without effect, till Captain Clerke, hearing of the dangerous irregularity of hisconduct ordered him on board. If I knew the rascal's name, I wouldhang it up, as far as lies in my power, to everlasting infamy. Mr. Williamson being sent with the boats to search for water, andattempting to land, the inhabitants came down in such numbers, andwere so violent in their endeavours to seize upon the oars, muskets, and, in short, every thing they could lay hold of, that he was obligedto fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circumstance wasnot known to Captain Cook till after he had left the island; so thatall his measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. When the ships were brought to an anchor, our commander went on shore;and, at the very instant of his doing it, the collected body of thenatives all fell flat upon their faces, and continued in that humbleposture, till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise. Other ceremonies followed; and the next day a trade was set on footfor hogs and potatoes, which the people of the island gave in exchangefor nails and pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. Sofar was any obstruction from being met with in watering, that, on thecontrary, the inhabitants assisted our men in rolling the casks to andfrom the pool; and readily performed whatever was required. Affairs thus going on to the captain's satisfaction, he made anexcursion into the country, accompanied by Mr. Anderson and Mr. Webber, the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with thepen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, whatever mightoccur worthy of observation. In this excursion, the gentlemen, amongother objects that called for their attention, found a _Morai_. On the return of our commander, he had the pleasure of finding that abrisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots was carrying on with thegreatest good order, and without any attempt to cheat, or steal, onthe part of the natives. The rapacious disposition they at firstdisplayed was entirely corrected by their conviction that it could notbe exercised with impunity. Among the articles which they brought tobarter, the most remarkable was a particular sort of cloak and cap, that might be reckoned elegant, even in countries where dress iseminently the object of attention. The cloak was richly adorned withred and yellow feathers, which in themselves were highly beautiful, and the newness and freshness of which added not a little to theirbeauty. On the 22nd, a circumstance occurred, which gave the English room tosuspect that the people of the island are eaters of human flesh. Not, however, to rest the belief of the existence of so horrid a practiceon the foundation of suspicion only, Captain Cook was anxious toinquire into the truth of the fact, the result of which was its beingfully confirmed. An old man, in particular, who was asked upon thesubject, answered in the affirmative, and seemed to laugh at thesimplicity of such a question. His answer was equally affirmative on arepetition of the inquiry; and he added, that the flesh of men wasexcellent food, or, as he expressed it, "savoury eating". It isunderstood that enemies slain in battle are the sole objects of thisabominable custom. The island, at which our voyagers had now touched, was called Atooi bythe natives. Near it was another island, named Oneeheow, where ourcommander came to an anchor on the 29th of the month. The inhabitantswere found to resemble those of Atooi in their dispositions, manners, and customs; and proofs, too convincing, appeared that the horridbanquet of human flesh is here as much relished, amidst plenty, as itis in New Zealand. From a desire of benefiting these people byfurnishing them with additional articles of food, the captain leftthem a ram goat and two ewes, a boar and sow pig of the English breed, and the seeds of melons, pumpkins and onions. These benevolentpresents would have been made to Atooi, the larger island, had not ournavigators been unexpectedly driven from it by stress of weather. Though the soil of Oneeheow seemed in general poor it was observable, that the ground was covered with shrubs and plants, some of whichperfumed the air with a more delicious fragrancy than what CaptainCook had met with at any other of the countries that had been visitedby him in this part of the world. It is a curious circumstance, with regard to the islands in thePacific Ocean which the late European voyages have added to thegeography of the globe, that they have generally been found to lie ingroups, or clusters. The single intermediate islands, which have asyet been discovered, are few in proportion to the others; though thereare probably many more of them that are still unknown, and may serveas steps, by which the several clusters are to some degree connectedtogether. Of the archipelago now first visited, there were five onlywith which our commander became at this time acquainted. The names ofthese, as given by the natives, were Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. To the whole group Captain Cook gave theappellation of Sandwich Islands, in honour of his great friend andpatron, the Earl of Sandwich. Concerning the island of Atooi, which is the largest of the five, andwhich was the principal scene of the captain's operations, hecollected, in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, a considerable degree ofinformation. The land, as to its general appearance, does not in theleast resemble any of the islands that our voyagers had hithertovisited within the tropic, on the south side of the equator; exceptingso far as regards its hills near the centre, which slope gentlytowards the sea. Hogs, dogs, and fowls, were the only tame or domesticanimals that were to be found; and these were of the same kind withthose which exist in the countries of the South Pacific Ocean. Amongthe inhabitants (who are of a middle stature, and firmly made), thereis a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of bothsexes, than our commander had observed in most other places. Theyappeared to be blessed with a frank and cheerful disposition; and, inCaptain Cook's opinion, they are equally free from the fickle levitywhich distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate castdiscernable amongst many of those at Tongataboo. It is a very pleasingcircumstance in their character, that they pay a particular attentionto their women, and readily lend assistance to their wives in thetender offices of maternal duty. On all occasions, they seemed to bedeeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority; beingalike strangers to the preposterous pride of the more polishedJapanese, and of the ruder Greenlander. Contrary to the generalpractice of the countries that had hitherto been discovered in thePacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Islands have not their earsperforated; nor have they the least idea of wearing ornaments in them, though, in other respects, they are sufficiently fond of adorningtheir persons. In every thing manufactured by them, there is anuncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity; and the elegant form andpolish of some of their fishing-hooks could not be exceeded by anyEuropean artist, even if he should add all his knowledge in design tothe number and convenience of his tools. From what was seen of theiragriculture, sufficient proofs were afforded, that they are notnovices in that art; and that the quantity and goodness of theirvegetable productions may as much be attributed to skilful culture, asto natural fertility of soil. Amidst all the resemblances between thenatives of Atooi, and those of Otaheite, the coincidence of theirlanguages was the most striking; being almost word for word the same. Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered by the Spaniards at an earlyperiod, they would undoubtedly have taken advantage of so excellent asituation, and have made use of them as refreshing places, for theirships, which sail annually from Acapulca for Manilla. Happy, too, would it have been for Lord Anson, if he had known that there existeda group of islands, half way between America and Tinian, where all hiswants could effectually have been supplied, and the differenthardships to which he was exposed have been avoided. On the second of February, our navigators pursued their course to thenorthward, in doing which the incidents they met with were almostentirely of a nautical kind. The long looked-for coast of New Albionwas seen on the 7th of March, the ships being then in the latitude of44° 33' north, and in the longitude of 235° 20' east. As the vesselsranged along the west side of America, Captain Cook gave names toseveral capes and headlands which appeared in sight. At length, on the29th, the captain came to an anchor at an inlet, where the appearanceof the country differed much from what had been seen before; beingfull of mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow; whilethe valleys between them, and the grounds on the sea-coast, high aswell as low, were covered, to a considerable breadth, was high, straight trees, which formed a beautiful prospect, as of one vastforest. It was immediately found, that the coast was inhabited; andthere soon came off to the Resolution three canoes, containingeighteen of the natives; who could not, however, be prevailed upon toventure themselves on board. Notwithstanding this, they displayed apeaceable disposition; shewed great readiness to part with any thingthey had, in exchange for what was offered them; and expressed astronger desire for iron than for any other of our commercialarticles, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of thatmetal. From these favourable circumstances, our voyagers had reason tohope, that they should find this a comfortable station to supply alltheir wants, and to make them forget the hardships and delays whichthey had experienced during a constant succession of adverse winds, and boisterous weather, almost ever since their arrival upon the coastof America. The ships having happily found an excellent inlet, the coasts of whichappeared to be inhabited by a race of people who were disposed tomaintain a friendly intercourse with strangers, Captain Cook's firstobject was to search for a commodious harbour; and he had littletrouble in discovering what he wanted. A trade having immediatelycommenced, the articles which the inhabitants offered for sale werethe skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, polecats, martins; and, in particular, of the sea-otters. Tothese were added, besides the skins in their native shape, garmentsmade of them; another sort of clothing, formed from the bark of atree; and various different pieces of workmanship. But of all thearticles brought to market, the most extraordinary were human skulls, and hands not yet quite stripped of their flesh; some of which hadevident marks of their having been upon the fire. The things, whichthe natives took in exchange for their commodities, were knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, orany kind of metal. Glass beads did not strike their imaginations; andcloth of every sort they rejected. Though commerce, in general, wascarried on with mutual honesty, there were some among these people whowere as much inclined to thievery as the islanders in the SouthernOcean. They were, at the same time, far more dangerous thieves; for, possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from atackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the moment that thebacks of the English were turned. The dexterity with which theyconducted their operations of this nature, frequently eluded the mostcautious vigilance. Some slighter instances of deception, in the wayof traffic, Captain Cook thought it better to bear with, than to makethem the foundation of a quarrel; and to this he was the ratherdetermined, as the English articles were now reduced to objects of atrifling nature. In the progress of the commerce, the natives woulddeal for nothing but metal; and, at length, brass was so eagerlysought for, in preference to iron, that, before our navigators quittedthe place, scarcely a bit of it was left in the ships, excepting whatbelonged to the necessary instruments. Whole suits of clothes werestripped of every button: bureaus were deprived of their furniture;copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and whatever of the likekind could be found, all went to wreck; so that these Americans becamepossessors of a greater medley and variety of things from our people, than any other nation that had been visited in the course of thevoyage. Of all the uncivilized tribes which our commander had met with in hisseveral navigations, he never found any who had such strict notions oftheir having a right to the exclusive property of everything whichtheir country produces, as the inhabitants of the sound where he wasnow stationed. At first, they wanted to be paid for the wood and waterthat were carried on board; and had the captain been upon the spot, when these demands were made, he would certainly have complied withthem; but the workmen, in his absence, maintained a different opinion, and refused to submit to any such claims. When some grass, whichappeared to be of no use to the natives, was wanted to be cut, as foodfor the few goats and sheep which still remained on board, theyinsisted that it should be purchased, and were very unreasonable intheir terms; notwithstanding which Captain Cook consented to gratifythem, as far as he was able. It was always a sacred rule with him, never to take any of the property of the people whom he visited, without making them an ample compensation. The grand operation of our navigators, to their present station, wasto put the ships into a complete repair for the prosecution of theexpedition. While this business was carrying on, our commander tookthe opportunity of examining every part of the sound; in the course ofwhich he gained a farther knowledge of the inhabitants, who ingeneral, received him with great civility. In one instance he met witha surly chief, who could not be softened with presents, though hecondesended to accept of them. The females of the place over which hepresided shewed a more agreeable disposition; for some of the youngwomen expeditiously dressed themselves in their best apparel, and, assembling in a body, welcomed the English to their village, byjoining in a song, which was far from being harsh or dissagreeable. Onanother occasion, the captain was entertained with singing. Beingvisited by a number of strangers, on the 22nd of April, as theyadvanced towards the ships, they all stood up in their canoes, andbegan to sing. Some of their songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow, and others in a quicker time; and their notes wereaccompanied with the most regular motions of their hands; or withbeating in concert, with their paddles, on the sides of their canoes;to which were added other very expressive gestures. At the end of eachsong, they continued silent for a few moments, and then began again, sometimes pronouncing the word _Hooee!_ forcibly as a chorus. Among the natives of the country, there was one chief who attachedhimself to our commander in a particular manner. Captain Cook having, at parting, bestowed upon him a small present, received, in return, abeaver skin, of much greater value. This called upon the captain tomake some addition to his present, with which the chief was so muchpleased, that he insisted on our commander's acceptance of thebeaver-skin cloak which he then wore; and of which he was particularlyfond. Admiring this instance of generosity, and desirous that heshould not suffer by his friendship, the captain gave him a newbroad-sword, with a brass hilt; the possession of which rendered himcompletely happy. On Captain Cook's first arrival in this inlet, he had honoured it withthe name of King George's Sound; but he afterward found that it iscalled Nootka by the natives. During his stay in the place, hedisplayed his usual sagacity and diligence, in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, in collecting every thing that could be learned concerningthe neighbouring country and its inhabitants; and the account isinteresting, as it exhibits a picture of productions, people, andmanners very different from what had occurred in the Southern Ocean. Ican only, as on former occasions, slightly advert to a few of the moreleading circumstances. The climate, so far as our navigators hadexperience of it, was found to be in an eminent degree milder thanthat on the east coast of America, in the same parallel of latitude:and it was remarkable, that the thermometer, even in the night, neverfell lower than 42°; while in the day it frequently rose to 60°. Withregard to trees, those of which the woods are chiefly composed, arethe Canadian pine, the white cypress and the wild pine, with two orthree different sorts of pine that are less common. In the othervegetable productions there appeared but little variety: but it is tobe considered, that, at so early a season, several might not yet havesprung up; and that many more might be concealed from our voyagers, inconsequence of the narrow sphere of their researches. Of the landanimals, the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The seaanimals, which were seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, andseals. Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the differentspecies, but very scarce as to numbers; and the few which are to bemet with are so shy, that, in all probability, they are continuallyharassed by the natives; either to eat them as food, or to getpossession of their feathers, which are used as ornaments. Fish aremore plentiful in quantity than birds, but were not found in any greatvariety; and yet, from several circumstances, there was reason tobelieve, that the variety is considerably increased at certainseasons. The only animals that were observed of the reptile kind weresnakes and water-lizards; but the insect tribe seemed to be morenumerous. With respect to the inhabitants of the country, their persons aregenerally under the common stature; but not slender in proportion, being usually pretty full or plump, though without being muscular. From their bringing to sale human skulls and bones, it may justly beinferred, that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutalcruelty; notwithstanding which, it does not follow, that they are tobe reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity: for thecircumstance now mentioned only marks a general agreement of characterwith that of almost every tribe of uncivilized men, in every age, andin every part of the globe. Our navigators had no reason to complainof the disposition of the natives, who appeared to be a docilecourteous, good-natured people; rather phlegmatic in the usual cast oftheir tempers, but quick in resenting what they apprehend to be aninjury, and easily permitting their anger to subside. Their otherpassions, and especially their curiosity, seemed to lie in somemeasure dormant; one cause of which may be found in the indolencethat, for the most part, is prevalent amongst them. The chiefemployments of the men are those of fishing, and of killing land orsea animals, for the sustenance of their families; while the women areoccupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, or inother domestic offices. It must be mentioned to their honour, thatthey were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmostdecorum; justly deserving all commendation, for a bashfulness andmodesty becoming their sex: and this was the more meritorious in them, as the male inhabitants discovered no sense of shame. In theirmanufactures and mechanic arts, these people have arrived to a greaterdegree of extent and ingenuity, both with regard to the design and theexecution, than could have been expected from their naturaldisposition, and the little progress to which they have arrived ingeneral civilization. Their dexterity, in particular, with respect toworks of wood, must principally be ascribe to the assistance theyreceive from iron tools, which are in universal use amongst them, andin the application of which they are very dexterous. Whence they havederived their knowledge of iron was a matter of speculation withCaptain Cook. The most probable opinion is, that this and other metalsmay have been introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, and thussuccessively have been conveyed across the continent, from tribe totribe. Nor is it unreasonable to suppose, that those metals maysometimes be brought, in the same manner, from the north-western partsof Mexico. [11] The language of Nootka is by no means harsh ordisagreeable; for it abounds, upon the whole, rather with what may becalled labial and dental, than with guttural sounds. A largevocabulary of it was collected by Mr. Anderson. [Footnote 11: Two silver spoons of a construction similar to what may sometimes be seen in Flemish pictures of still life, were procured here by Mr. Gore, who bought them from a native, who wore them, tied together with a leather thong, as an ornament round his neck. Mr. Gore gave the spoons to Sir Joseph Banks. ] Whilst Captain Cook was at Nootka Sound, great attention was paid byhim, as usual, to astronomical and nautical subjects. The observationswhich he had an opportunity of making were, indeed, so numerous, as toform a very considerable addition to geographical and philosophicalscience. On the 26th, the repairs of the ships having been completed, everything was ready for the captain's departure. When, in the afternoon ofthat day, the vessels were upon the point of sailing, the mercury inthe barometer fell unusually low; and there was every other presage ofan approaching storm, which might reasonably be expected to come fromthe southward. This circumstance induced our commander in some degreeto hesitate, and especially as night was at hand, whether he shouldventure to sail, or wait till the next morning. But his anxiousimpatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing thepresent opportunity of getting out of the sound, made a greaterimpression upon his mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger. He determined, therefore, to put to sea at all events; and accordinglycarried his design into execution that evening. He was not deceived inhis expectations of a storm. Scarcely were the vessels out of thesound before the wind increased to a strong gale, with squalls andrain, accompanied by so dark a sky, that the length of the ships couldnot be seen. Happily the wind took a direction that blew ournavigators from the coast; and though, on the 27th, the tempest roseto a perfect hurricane, and the Resolution sprang a leak, no materialdamage ensued. In the prosecution of the voyage to the north, and back again to theSandwich Islands, the facts that occurred were chiefly of a nauticalkind. Minutely to record these is not the purpose of the present work, and indeed would extend it to an unreasonable length. From this long and important navigation, I can only select some fewincidents, that may be accommodated to the taste and expectations ofthe generality of readers. One thing it is not improper here to observe; which is, that thecaptain, in his passage along the coast of America, kept at a distancefrom that coast, whenever the wind blew strongly upon it, and sailedon till he could approach it again with safety. Hence several greatgaps were left unexplored, and particularly between the latitudes of50° and 55°. The exact situation, for instance, of the supposedStraits of Anian was not ascertained. Every one who is acquainted withthe character of our commander will be sensible, that if he had livedto return again to the north in 1779. He would have endeavoured toexplore the parts which had been left unexamined. The first place at which Captain Cook landed, after his departure fromNootka Sound, was at an island, of eleven or twelve leagues in length, the south-west point of which lies in the latitude of 59° 49' north, and the longitude of 216° 58' east. Here, on the 11th of May, at thefoot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, he left abottle, with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of theships, and the date of the discovery. Together with the bottle, heenclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his majesty's coin, which hadbeen struck in 1772. These, with many others, had been given him bythe Reverend Dr. Kaye, the present Dean of Lincoln; and our commander, as a mark of his esteem and regard for that learned and respectablegentleman, named the island, after him, Kaye's island. At an inlet, where the ships came to an anchor, on the 12th, and towhich Captain Cook gave the appellation of Prince William's Sound, hehad an opportunity not only of stopping the leak which the Resolutionhad sprung in the late storm, and of prosecuting his nautical andgeographical discoveries, but of making considerable additions to hisknowledge of the inhabitants of the American coast. From everyobservation which was made concerning the persons of the natives ofthis part of the coast, it appeared, that they had a strikingresemblance to those of the Esquimaux and Greenlanders. Their canoes, their weapons, and their instruments for fishing and hunting, arelikewise exactly the same, in point of materials and construction, that are used in Greenland. The animals in the neighbourhood of PrinceWilliam's Sound are, in general, similar to those which are found atNootka. One of the most beautiful skins here offered for sale, was, however, that of a small animal, which seemed to be peculiar to theplace. Mr. Anderson was inclined to think that it is the animal whichis described by Mr. Pennant, under the name of the _casan_marmot. Among the birds seen in this country, were the white-headedeagle; the shag; and the _alcedo_, or great king-fisher, thecolours of which were very fine and bright. The humming-bird, also, came frequently and flew about the ship, while at anchor; but it canscarcely be supposed, that it can be able to subsist here during theseverity of winter. Waterfowl, upon the whole, are in considerableplenty; and there is a species of diver, about the size of apartridge, which seems peculiar to the place. Torsk and halibut werealmost the only kinds of fish that were obtained by our voyagers. Vegetables, of any sort, were few in number; and the trees werechiefly the Canadian and spruce pine, some of which were of aconsiderable height and thickness. The beads and iron, that were foundamong the people of the coast, must undoubtedly have been derived fromsome civilized nation; and yet there was ample reason to believe thatour English navigators were the first Europeans with whom the nativeshad ever held a direct communication. From what quarter, then, hadthey gotten our manufactures? Most probably, through the interventionof the more inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the settlements onthe Canadian lakes. This, indeed, must certainly have been the case, if iron was known, amongst the inhabitants of this part of theAmerican coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, andbefore there was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka. From what was seen of Prince William's Sound, Captain Cook judged thatit occupied, at least, a degree and a half of latitude, and two oflongitude, exclusively of the arms or branches, the extent of which isnot known. Some days after leaving this sound our navigators came to an inlet, from which great things were expected. Hopes were stronglyentertained, that it would be found to communicate either with the seato the north, or with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the east; andaccordingly it became the object of very accurate and seriousexamination. The captain was soon persuaded that the expectationsformed from it were groundless; notwithstanding which, he persisted inthe search of a passage, more, indeed, to satisfy other people, thanto confirm his own opinion. In consequence of a complete investigationof the inlet, indubitable marks occurred of its being a river. Thisriver, without seeing the least appearance of its source, was tracedby our voyagers, as high as the latitude of 61° 34', and the longitudeof 210°, being seventy leagues from its entrance. During the course ofthe navigation, on the first of June, Lieutenant King was ordered onshore, to display the royal flag, and to take possession of thecountry in his majesty's name. The lieutenant, at the same time, buried in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of English coin, of the year 1772, and a paper, on which the names of the ships wereinscribed, and the date of the present discovery. The great river nowdiscovered, promises to vie with the most considerable ones alreadyknown; and, by itself and its branches, lies open to a very extensiveinland communication. If, therefore, the knowledge of it should be offuture service, the time which was spent in exploring it ought theless to be regretted. But to Captain Cook, who had a much greaterobject in view, the delay that was hence occasioned was a real loss, because the season was advancing apace. It was, however, asatisfaction to him to reflect, that if he had not examined this veryconsiderable inlet, it would have been assumed, by speculativefabricators of geography, as a fact, that there was a passage throughit to the North Sea, or to Baffin's or Hudson's Bay. Perhaps, too, itwould have been marked, on future maps of the world, with greaterprecision, and more, certain signs of reality, than the invisible, because imaginary, Straits of de Fuca and de Fonte. In describing theinlet, our commander had left a blank which was not filled up with anyparticular name; and, therefore, the Earl of Sandwich directed, withthe greatest propriety, that it should be called Cook's River. All the natives who were met with, during the examination of thisriver, appeared, from every mark of resemblance, to be of the samenation with the inhabitants of Prince Willam's Sound; but from thepeople of Nootka, or King George's Sound, they essentially differed, both in their persons and their language. The only things which wereseen among them, that were not of their own manufacture, were a fewglass beads, the iron points of their spears, and knives of the samemetal. Whencesoever these articles might be derived, it was evident, that they had never had any immediate intercourse with the Russians;since, if that had been the case, our voyagers would scarcely havefound them clothed in such valuable skins as those of the sea-otter. Avery beneficial fur-trade might undoubtedly be carried on with theinhabitants of this vast coast. But without a practicable northernpassage, the situation is too remote to render it probable, that GreatBritain should hence ever derive any material advantage; though it isimpossible to say with certainty, how far the spirit of commerce, forwhich the English nation is so eminently distinguished, may extend. The most valuable, or rather the only valuable skins, which CaptainCook saw on the west side of America, were those of the sea-otter; foras to the skins of all the other animals of the country, andespecially of the foxes and martins, they seemed to be of an inferiorquality. It was on the 6th of June that our navigators got clear of Cook'sRiver. Proceeding in the course of their discoveries, when they weresailing, on the 19th, amidst the group of islands, which were called, by Beering, Schumagin's Islands, Captain Clerke fired three guns, andbrought to, expressing by the proper signals, that he wished to speakwith Captain Cook. At this our commander was not a little alarmed; andas no apparent danger had been remarked in the passage through thechannel where the vessels now were, it was apprehended, that someaccident, such as springing a leak, must have happened. On CaptainClerke's coming on board the Resolution, he related that several ofthe natives had followed his ship; that one of them had made manysigns, taking off his cap, and bowing after the manner of Europeans;and that, at length, he had fastened to a rope, which was handed downto him, a small thin wooden case or box. Having delivered his parcelsafe, and spoken something, accompanied with more signs, the canoesdropped astern, and left the Discovery. On opening the box, a piece ofpaper was found, folded up carefully, upon which something waswritten, that was reasonably supposed to be in the Russian language. To the paper was prefixed the date 1778, and in the body of the notethere was a reference to the year 1776. Although no person on boardwas learned enough to decipher the alphabet of the writer, hisnumerals sufficiently marked, that others had preceded our voyagers invisiting this dreary part of the globe; and the prospect of soonmeeting with men, who were united to them in ties somewhat closer thanthose of our common nature, and who were not strangers to the arts andcommerce of civilized life, could not but afford a sensiblesatisfaction to people who, for such a length of time, had beenconversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the NorthAmerican continent. Captain Clerke was, at first, of opinion that someRussians had been shipwrecked; but no such idea occurred to CaptainCook. He rather thought, that the paper contained a note ofinformation, left by some Russian traders, to be delivered to the nextof their countrymen who should arrive; and that the natives, seeingthe English pass, and supposing them to be Russians, had resolved tobring off the note. Accordingly, our commander pursued his voyage, without inquiring farther into the matter. On the 21st, amongst some hills, on the main land, that towered abovethe clouds to a most amazing height, one was discovered to have avolcano, which continually threw up vast columns of black smoke. Itdoth not stand far from the coast; and it lies in the latitude of 54°48', and the longitude of 195° 45'. The mountain was renderedremarkable by its figure, which is a complete cone, and the volcano isat the very summit. While, in the afternoon of the same day, during acalm of three hours the English were fishing with great success forhalibuts, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to them from anisland in the neighbourhood. On approaching the ship, he took off hiscap, and bowed, as the native had done, who had visited the Discoverya day or two before. From the acquired politeness of these people, aswell as from the note already mentioned, it was evident that theRussians must have a communication and traffic with them; and of thisa fresh proof occurred in the present visitor; for he wore a pair ofgreen cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, or stuff, under thegut-shirt or frock of his own country. In the prosecution of the voyage, on the 26th, there was so thick afog, that our navigators could not see a hundred yards before them;notwithstanding which, as the weather was moderate, the captain didnot intermit his course. At length, however, being alarmed at thesound of breakers on one side of the ship, he immediately brought herto, and came to anchor; and the Discovery, by his order, did the same. A few hours after, the fog having in some degree cleared away, itappeared, that both the vessels had escaped a very imminent danger. Providence, in the dark, had conducted them between rocks which ourcommander would not have ventured to pass through in a clear day, andhad conveyed them to an anchoring place, as good as he could possiblyhave fixed upon, had the choice been entirely at his option. On the 27th, our voyagers reached an island, that is known by the nameof Oonalashka; the inhabitants of which behaved with a degree ofpoliteness uncommon to savage tribes. A young man, who had overset hiscanoe, being obliged by this accident to come on board the ship, wentdown into Captain Cook's cabin, upon the first invitation, withoutexpressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes beingwet, the captain gave him others, in which he dressed himself with asmuch ease as any Englishman could have done. From the behaviour ofthis youth, and that of some of the rest of the natives, it wasevident, that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and toseveral of their customs. There was something, however, in the Englishships, that greatly excited their attention; for such as could notcome off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look atthem. In one instance it was apparent, that the inhabitants were sofar from having made any progress in politeness, that they were stillimmersed in the most savage manners. For as our commander was walkingalong the shore, on the 29th, he met with a group of them, of bothsexes, who were seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting of rawfish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish, as persons incivilized life would experience from a turbot, served up in therichest sauce. Soon after the vessels had come to an anchor atOonalashka, a native of the island brought on board such another noteas had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to Captain Cook;but, as it was written in the Russian language, and could be of no useto the English, though it might be of consequence to others, thecaptain returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a fewpresents; for which he expressed his thanks by making several low bowsas he retired. On the 2nd of July, our voyagers put to sea from Oonalashka; and, pursuing their course of navigation and discovery, came, on the 16th, within sight of a promontory, near which our commander orderedLieutenant Williamson to land, that he might see what direction thecoast took beyond it, and what the country produced. Accordingly, Mr. Williamson went on shore, and reported, on his return, that, havinglanded on the point, and climbed the highest hill, he found that thefarthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. At the sametime, he took possession of the country in his majesty's name, andleft a bottle, in which was enclosed a piece of paper, containing aninscription of the names of the ships, together with the date of thediscovery. To the promontory he gave the name of Cape Newenham. Theland, as far as Mr. Williamson could see, produces neither tree norshrub; but the lower grounds were not destitute of grass, and of someother plants, very few of which were in flower. When our navigators, on the 3rd of August, had advanced to thelatitude of 62° 34', a great loss was sustained by them in the deathof Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who had been lingeringunder a consumption for more than twelve months. He was a young man ofa cultivated understanding and agreeable manners, and was well skilledin his own profession; besides which, he had acquired a considerabledegree of knowledge in other branches of science. How useful anassistant he was to Captain Cook, hath often appeared in the presentnarrative. Had his life been spared, the public would undoubtedly havereceived from him such communications, on various parts of the naturalhistory of the several places that had been visited, as would justlyhave entitled him to very high commendation. The proofs of hisabilities that now remain, will hand down the name of Anderson, inconjunction with that of Cook, to posterity. Soon after he hadbreathed his last, land having been seen at a distance, which wassupposed to be an island, our commander honoured it with theappellation of Anderson's Island. The next day he removed Mr. Law, thesurgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. Samwell, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon ofthe Discovery. On the 9th, Captain Cook came to an anchor under a point of land, towhich he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales, and which isremarkable by being the most western extremity of America hithertoexplored. This extremity is distant from the eastern Cape of Siberiaonly thirteen leagues: and thus our commander had the glory ofascertaining the vicinity of the two continents, which had only beenconjectured from the reports of the neighbouring Asiatic inhabitants, and the imperfect observations of the Russian navigators. Resuming his course on the 10th, Captain Cook anchored in a bay, theland of which was at first supposed to be part of the island ofAlaschka, which is laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map. But, from thefigure of the coast, from the situation of the opposite shore ofAmerica, and from the longitude, the captain soon began to think, thatit was more probably the country of the Tschutski, on the easternextremity of Asia, which had been explored by Beering in 1728. In theresult it appeared, that this was in fact the case. Our commanderbecame fully satisfied in the farther progress of his voyage, that Mr. Staehlin's map must be erroneous; and he had the honour of restoringthe American continent to that space which the geographer nowmentioned had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka. From the Bay of St. Lawrence, belonging to the country of theTschutski, our navigators steered, on the 11th, to the east, in orderto get nearer to the coast of America. After that, proceeding to thenorth, they reached, on the 17th, the latitude of 70° 33'. On thisday, a brightness was perceived in the northern horizon, like thatwhich is reflected from ice, and is commonly called the _blink_. This was at first but little noticed, from a supposition that therewas no probability of meeting with ice so soon: and yet the sharpnessof the air, and the gloominess of the weather, had, for two or threedays past, seemed to indicate a sudden change. In about an hour'stime, the sight of a large field of ice left Captain Cook no longer indoubt with regard to the cause of the brightness of the horizon. Theships, in the same afternoon, being then in the latitude of 70° 41', were close to the edge of the ice, and not able to stand on anyfarther. On the 18th, when the vessels were in the latitude of 70°44', the ice on the side of them was as compact as a wall, and wasjudged to be at least ten or twelve feet in height. Farther to thenorth, it appeared to be much higher. Its surface was extremelyrugged, and in different places there were seen upon it pools ofwater. A prodigious number of sea-horses lay upon the ice; and some ofthem, on the nineteenth, were procured for food, there being at thistime a want of fresh provisions. When the animals were brought to thevessels, it was no small disappointment to many of the seamen, who hadfeasted their eyes for several days with the prospect of eating them, to find that they were not sea-cows, as they had supposed, butsea-horses. The disappointment would not have been occasioned, or thedifference known, had there not happened to be one or two sailors onboard who had been in Greenland, and who declared what these animalswere, and that it never was customary to eat of them. Such, however, was the anxiety for a change of diet, as to overcome this prejudice. Our voyagers lived upon the sea-horses as long as they lasted; andthere were few who did not prefer them to the salt meat. Captain Cook continued, to the 29th, to traverse the Icy Sea beyondBeering's Strait, in various directions, and through numberlessobstructions and difficulties. Every day the ice increased, so as topreclude all hopes of attaining, at least during the present year thegrand object of the voyage. Indeed, the season was now so faradvanced, and the time in which the frost was expected to set in wasso near at hand, that it would have been totally inconsistent withprudence, to have made any farther attempts, till the next summer, atfinding a passage into the Atlantic. The attention, therefore, of ourcommander was now directed to other important and necessary concerns. It was of great consequence to meet with a place where our navigatorsmight be supplied with wood and water. But the point which principallyoccupied the captain's thoughts was, how he should spend the winter, so as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, atthe same time, to be in a condition to return to the north, in farthersearch of a passage, in the ensuing summer. Before Captain Cook proceeded far to the south, he employed aconsiderable time in examining the sea and coasts in the neighbourhoodof Beering's Strait, both on the side of Asia and America. In thisexamination, he ascertained the accuracy of Beering, so far as hewent; demonstrated the errors with which Staehlin's map of the NewNorthern Archipelago abounds; and made large additions to thegeographical knowledge of this part of the world. 'It reflects, ' asMr. Coxe justly observes, 'the highest honour even on the Britishname, that our great navigator extended his discoveries much fartherin one expedition, and at so great a distance from the point of hisdeparture, than the Russians accomplished in a long series of years, and in parts belonging or contiguous to their own empire. ' On the 2nd of October, our voyagers came within sight of the island ofOonalashka, and anchored the next day in Samganoodha harbour. Here thefirst concern was to put the ships under the necessary repair; and, while the carpenters were employed in this business, one third of thepeople had permission, by turns, to go and collect the berries withwhich the island abounds, and, which, though now beginning to be in astate of decay, did not a little contribute, in conjunction withspruce-beer, effectually to eradicate every seed of the scurvy, thatmight exist in either of the vessels. Such a supply of fish waslikewise procured, as not only served for present consumption, butafforded a quantity to be carried out to sea; so that hence aconsiderable saving was made of the provisions of the ships, which wasat this time an object of no small importance. Captain Cook, on the 8th, received by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named Derramoushk, a very singular present, which was that of a ryeloaf, or rather a pie in the form of a loaf, for it enclosed somesalmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present forCaptain Clerke, and a note for each of the two captains, written in acharacter which none on board could understand. It was natural tosuppose, that the presents came from some Russians in theneighbourhood; and therefore a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter, were sent to these unknown friends in return; it being rightly judged, that such articles would be more acceptable than any thing besideswhich it was in the power of our navigators to bestow. CorporalLediard of the marines, [12] an intelligent man, was, at the same time, directed to accompany Derramoushk, for the purpose of gaining fartherinformation; and with orders, if he met with any Russians, that heshould endeavour to make them understand that our voyagers wereEnglishmen, and the friends and allies of their nation. On the 10ththe corporal returned with three. Russian seamen, or furriers, who, with several others, resided at Egoochshac, where they had adwellinghouse, some storehouses, [12] and a sloop of about thirty tonsburden. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel;another of them wrote a very good hand, and was acquainted withfigures: and all of them were sensible and well behaved persons, whowere ready to give Captain Cook every possible degree of information. The great difficulty, in the reception and communication ofintelligence, arose from the want of an interpreter. On the 14th, aRussian landed at Oonalashka, whose name was Erasim Gregorioff SinIsmyloff, and who was the principal person among his countrymen inthis and the neighbouring islands. Besides the intelligence which ourcommander derived from his conversations with Ismyloff, and which werecarried on by signs, assisted by figures and other characters, heobtained from him the sight of two charts, and was permitted to copythem. Both of them were manuscripts, and bore every mark ofauthenticity. The first included the Penshinskian Sea; the coast ofTartary, down to the latitude of 41°; the Curil Islands and thepeninsula of Kamtschatka. But it was the second chart that was themost interesting to Captain Cook; for it comprehended all thediscoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of Kamtschatka, towards America; which, however, exclusively of the voyages of Beeringand Tscherikoff, amounted to little or nothing. Indeed, all the peoplewith whom the captain conversed at Oonalashka, agreed in assuring him, over and over again, that they knew of no other islands, besides thosewhich were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had everseen any part of the continent of America to the northward, exceptingthat which lies opposite to the country of the Tschutskis. [Footnote 12: This Corporal Lediard is an extraordinary man, something of whose history cannot fail of being entertaining to my readers. In the winter of 1768, he set out on the singular undertaking of walking across the continent of America; for the accomplishment of which purpose, he determined to travel by the way of Siberia, and to procure a passage from that country to the opposite American coast. Being an American by birth, and having; no means of raising the money necessary for his expenses, a subscription was raised for him by Sir Joseph Banks, and some other gentlemen, accounting, in the whole to a little more than fifty pounds. Vith this sum he proceeded to Hamburgh, frum which place he went to Copenhagen, and thence to Petersburgh, where he arrived in the beginning of March, 1787. In his journey from Copenhagen to Petersburgh, finding that the gulf of Bothnia was not frozen over, he was obliged to walk round the whole of it, by Tornæo. At Petersburgh he staid till the 21st of May, when he obtained leave to accompany a convoy of military stores, which at that time was proceeding to Mr. Bilious, who had been his shipmate in Captain Cook's voyage, and who was then employed by the Empress of Russia, for the purpose of making discoveries in Siberia, and on the north-west coast of America. With this convoy Mr. Lediard set out, and in August reached the city of Irkutsk in Siberia. After that, he proceeded to the town of Yakutsk, where he met with Captain Billings. From this place he went back to Irkutsh, to spend a part of the winter; proposing, in the spring, to return to Yakutsk, in order to proceed in the summer to Okotsk. Hitherto, Mr. Lediard had gone on prosperously, and flattered himself with the hopes of succeeding in his undertaking. But. In January last (1788), in consequence of an express from the empress, he was arrested, and, to half an hour's time, carried away, under the guard of two soldiers and an officer, in a post sledge, for Moscow, without his clothes, money, and papers. From Moscow he was conveyed to the city of Moialoff in White Russia, and thence to the town of Tolochin in Poland. There he was informed, that her majesty's orders were, that he was never to enter her dominions again without her express permission. During all this time, he suffered the greatest hardships, from sickness, fatigue, and want of rest; so that he was almost reduced to a skeleton. From Tolochin he made his way to Konigsberg; having had, as he says, a miserable journey, in a miserable country, in a miserable season, in miserable health, and a miserable purse; and. Disappointed of his darling enterprise. Mr. Lediard informs Sir Joseph Banks, to whom he sent, from time to time, a full account of his transactions, that, though he had been retarded in his pursuits by malice, he had not travelled totally in vain; his observations to Asia being, perhaps, as complete as a longer visit would have rendered them. From his last letter it appears, that he proposed to return, as speedily as possible, from Konigsberg to England. ] When, on the 21st, Mr. Ismyloff took his final leave of the Englishnavigators, our commander intrusted to his care a letter to the lordscommissioners of the admiralty, in which was enclosed a chart of allthe northern coasts the captain had visited. It was expected, thatthere would be an opportunity of sending this letter, in the ensuingspring, to Kamtschatka or Okotsk, and that it would reach Petersburghduring the following winter. Mr. Ismyloff, who faithfully andsuccessfully discharged the trust our commander had reposed in him, seemed to possess abilities, that might entitle him to a higherstation in life than that which he occupied. He had a considerableknowledge of astronomy, and was acquainted with the most usefulbranches of the mathematics. Captain Cook made him a present of anHadley's octant; and, though it was probably the first he had everseen, he understood, in a very short time, the various uses to whichthat instrument can be applied. While the ships lay at Oonalashka, our voyagers did not neglect tomake a diligent inquiry into the productions of the island, and thegeneral manners of the inhabitants. On these, as being in a greatmeasure similar to objects which have already been noticed, it is notnecessary to enlarge. There is one circumstance, however, sohonourable to the natives, that it must not be omitted. They are, toall appearance, the most peaceable and inoffensive people ourcommander had ever met with; and, with respect to honesty, they mightserve as a pattern to countries that are in the highest state ofcivilization. A doubt is suggested, whether this disposition may nothave been the consequence of their present subjection to the Russians. From the affinity which was found to subsist between the dialects ofthe Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of the inhabitants ofNorton's Sound and Oonalashka, there is strong reason to believe, thatall these nations are of the same extraction; and, if that be thecase, the existence of a northern communication of some kind, by sea, between the west of America and the east side, through Baffin's Bay, can scarcely be doubted; which communication, nevertheless, mayeffectually be shut up against ships, by ice and other impediments. While the vessels lay in Samganoodha harbour, Captain Cook exerted hisusual diligence in making nautical and astronomical observations. Allthings, on the 26th, having been gotten ready for his departure, heput to sea on that day, and sailed for the Sandwich Islands; it beinghis intention to spend a few months there, and then to direct hiscourse to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour to reach that country by themiddle of May, in the ensuing summer. On the 26th of November, when the ships had proceeded southward tillthey came to the latitude of 20° 55', land was discovered, whichproved to be an island of the name of Mowee, that had not hithertobeen visited. It is one of the group of the Sandwich Islands. As itwas of the last importance to procure a supply of provisions at theseislands, and experience had taught our commander, that he could havehad no chance of succeeding in his object, if it were left to everyman's discretion to traffic for what he pleased, and in what manner hepleased; the captain published an order, prohibiting all persons fromtrading, excepting such as should be appointed by himself and CaptainClerke. Even these persons were enjoined to trade only for provisionsand refreshments. While our navigators lay off Mowee, which was forsome days, a friendly intercourse was maintained with the inhabitants. Another island was discovered on the 30th, which is called by thenatives Owhyhee. As it appeared to be of greater extent and importancethan any of the islands which had yet been visited in this part of theworld, Captain Cook spent nearly seven weeks in sailing round, andexamining its coast. Whilst he was thus employed, the inhabitants cameoff, from time to time, in their canoes, and readily engaged intraffic with our voyagers. In the conduct of this business, thebehaviour of the islanders was more entirely free from suspicion andreserve than our commander had ever yet experienced. Noteven thepeople of Otaheite itself, with whom he had been so intimately andrepeatedly connected, had displayed such a full confidence in theintegrity and good treatment of the English. Among the articles procured from the natives, was a quantity ofsugarcane. Upon a trial, Captain Cook found that a strong decoction ofit produced a very palatable beer; on which account, he ordered somemore to be brewed, for general use. When, however, the barrel wasbroached, not one of the crew would taste of the liquor. As thecaptain had no motive in preparing this beverage, but that of sparingthe rum and other spirits for a colder climate, he did not exerteither authority or persuasion to prevail upon the men to change theirresolution; for he knew, that there was no danger of the scurvy, solong as a plentiful supply could be obtained of different vegetables. Nevertheless, that he might not be disappointed in his views, he gaveorders that no grog should be served in the ships; and he himself, together with the officers, continued to make use of the sugarcanebeer, which was much improved by the addition of a few hops, thatchanced to be still on board. There could be no reasonable doubt ofits being a very wholesome liquor; and yet the inconsiderate crewalleged that it would be injurious to their health. No people are moreaverse to every kind of innovation than seamen, and their prejudicesare extremely difficult to be conquered. It was, however, by actingcontrary to these prejudices, and by various deviations fromestablished practice, that Captain Cook had been enabled to preservehis men from that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which, perhaps, hasdestroyed more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than havefallen by the enemy in military expeditions. As the captain was pursuing his examination of the coast of Owhyhee, it having fallen calm at one o'clock in the morning of the 19th ofDecember, the Resolution was left to the mercy of a north-easterlyswell, which impelled her fast towards the land; so that, long beforedaybreak, lights were seen from the land, which was not more than aleague distant. The night, at the same time, was dark, with thunder, lightning and rain. As soon as it was light, a dreadful surf, withinhalf a league of the vessel, appeared breaking from the shore; and itwas evident, that our navigators had been in the most periloussituation: nor was the danger yet over; for to consequence of theveering of the wind, they were but just able to keep their distancefrom the coast. What rendered their situation more alarming was, thata rope of the main topsail having given way, this occasioned the sailto be rent in two. In the same manner, the two topgallant sails gaveway, though they were not half worn out. However, a favourableopportunity was seized of getting others to the yards; and theResolution again proceeded in safety. On the 16th of January, 1779, canoes arrived in such numbers from allparts, that there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs, and otherproductions of the islands. It was a satisfactory proof of theirfriendly intentions, that there was not a single person amongst themwho had with him a weapon of any kind; trade and curiosity aloneappearing to be the motives which actuated their conduct. Among suchmultitudes, however, as, at times, were on board, it will not bedeemed surprising, that some should betray a thievish disposition. Oneof them took out of the Resolution a boat's rudder; and made off withit so speedily, that it could not be recovered. Captain Cook judgedthis to be a favourable opportunity of shewing to these people the useof fire-arms; and accordingly he ordered two or three muskets, and asmany four-pounders, to be fired over the canoe, which carried off therudder. It not being intended that any of the shot should take effect, the surrounding multitude of the natives seemed to be more surprisedthan terrified. Mr. Bligh, having been sent to examine a neighbouring bay, reported, on his return, that it had good anchorage and fresh water, and that itwas in an accessible situation. Into this bay, therefore the captainresolved to carry the ships, in order to refit, and to obtain everyrefreshment which the place could afford. As night approached, thegreater part of the Indians retired on shore; but numbers of themrequested permission to sleep on board; in which request, curiosity(at least with regard to several of them) was not their sole motive;for it was found, the next morning, that various things were missing;on which account our commander determined not to entertain so manypersons on board another night. On the 17th, the ships came to an anchor in the bay which had beenexamined by Mr. Bligh, and which is called Karakakooa by theinhabitants. At this time, the vessels continued to be much crowdedwith natives and were surrounded with a multitude of canoes. CaptainCook, in the whole course of his voyages, had never seen so numerous abody of people assembled in one place. For besides those who had comeoff to the English in their canoes, all the shore of the bay wascovered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round theships like shoals of fish. Our navigators could not avoid beinggreatly impressed with the singularity of this scene; and perhapsthere were few on board that now lamented the want of success whichhad attended the endeavours of getting homeward, the last summer, by anorthern passage. 'To this disappointment, ' says the captain, 'we owedour having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and toenrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though the last, seemed, inmany respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made byEuropeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. ' Such is the sentence that concludes our commander's journal: and thesatisfaction with which this sentence appears to have been written, cannot fail of striking the mind of every reader. Little did CaptainCook then imagine, that a discovery which promised to add no smallhonour to his name, and to be productive of very agreeableconsequences, should be so fatal in the result. Little did he think, that the island of Owhyhee was destined to be the last scene of hisexploits, and the cause of his destruction. The reception which the captain met with from the natives, on hisproceeding to anchor in Karakakooa Bay, was flattering in the highestdegree. They came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, andexpressed their joy by singing and shouting, and by exhibiting avariety of wild and extravagant gestures. Pareea, a young man of greatauthority, and Kaneena, another chief, had already attached themselvesto our commander, and were very useful in keeping their countrymenfrom being troublesome. During the long cruise of our navigators off the island of Owhyhee, the inhabitants had almost universally behaved with great fairness andhonesty in their dealings, and had not shewn the slightest propensityto theft: and this was a fact the more extraordinary, as those withwhom our people had hitherto maintained any intercourse, were of thelowest rank, being either servants or fishermen. But, after thearrival of the Resolution and Discovery in Karakakooa Bay, the casewas greatly altered. The immense crowd of islanders that blocked upevery part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunities ofpilfering without risk of detection; but held out, even if they shouldbe detected, a prospect of escaping with impunity, from thesuperiority of their numbers to that of the English. Anothercircumstance, to which the alteration in the conduct of the nativesmight be ascribed, arose from the presence and encouragement of theirchiefs, into whose possession the booty might be traced, and whomthere was reason to suspect of being the instigators of thedepredations that were committed. Soon after the Resolution had gotten into her station, Pareea andKaneena brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who wasrepresented as being a priest, and as having, in his early youth, beena distinguished warrior. In the evening, Captain Cook attended by Mr. Bayley and Mr. King, accompanied Koah on shore. Upon this occasion, the captain was received with very peculiar and extraordinaryceremonies; with ceremonies that indicated the highest respect on thepart of the natives, and which, indeed, seemed to fall little short ofadoration. One of the principal objects that engaged our commander's attention atOwhyhee, was the salting of hogs for sea-store; in which his successwas far more complete than had been attained in any former attempt ofthe same kind. It doth not appear, that experiments relative to thissubject had been made by the navigators of any nation before CaptainCook. His first trials were in 1774, during his second voyage roundthe world; when his success, though very imperfect, was nevertheless, sufficient to encourage his farther efforts, in a matter of so muchimportance. As the present voyage was likely to be protracted a yearbeyond the time for which the ships were victualled, he was under anecessity of providing, by some such method, for the subsistence ofthe crews, or of relinquishing the prosecution of his discoveries. Accordingly, he lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts; and theevent answered his most sanguine expectations. Captain King broughthome with him some of the pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee inJanuary, 1779; and, upon its being tasted by several persons inEngland about Christmas, 1780, it was found to be perfectly sound andwholesome. It seemed to be destined, that in every instance CaptainCook should excel all who had gone before him, in promoting thepurposes of navigation. On the 26th, the captain had his first interview with Terreeoboo, theking of the island. The meeting was conducted with a variety ofceremonies, among which, the custom of making an exchange of names, which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean is the strongestpledge of friendship, was observed. When the formalities of theinterview were over, our commander carried Terreeoboo, and as manychiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. They werereceived, on this occasion, with every mark of respect that could beshown them; and, in return for a beautiful and splendid featheredcloak which the king had bestowed on Captain Cook, the captain put alinen shirt on his majesty, and girt his own hanger round him. In the progress of the intercourse which was maintained between ourvoyagers and the natives, the quiet and inoffensive behaviour of thelatter took away every apprehension of danger; so that the Englishtrusted themselves among them at all times, and in all situations. Theinstances of kindness and civility which our people experienced fromthem were so numerous, that they could not easily be recounted. Asociety of priests, in particular, displayed a generosity andmunificence, of which no equal example had hitherto been given: forthey furnished a constant supply of hogs and vegetables to ournavigators, without ever demanding a return, or even hinting at it inthe most distant manner. All this was said to be done at the expenseof a great man among them, who was at the head of their body, whosename was Kaoo, and who on other occasions manifested his attachment tothe English. There was not always so much reason to be satisfied withthe conduct of the warrior chiefs, or earees, as with that of thepriests. Indeed, the satisfaction that was derived from the usualgentleness and hospitality of the inhabitants, was frequentlyinterrupted by the propensity of many of them to stealing; and thiscircumstance was the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged ourcommander and the other officers to have recourse to acts of severity, which they would willingly have avoided, if the necessity of the casehad not absolutely called for them. Though the kind and liberal behaviour of the natives continued withoutremission, Terreeoboo, and his chiefs, began at length to be veryinquisitive about the time in which our voyagers were to take theirdeparture. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is considered, that, during sixteen days in which the English had been in the bay ofKarakakooa, they had made an enormous consumption of hogs andvegetables. It did not appear, however, that Terreeoboo had any otherin view in his inquiries, than a desire of making sufficientpreparation for dismissing our navigators with presents, suitable tothe respect and kindness towards them which he had always displayed. For, on his being informed, that they were to leave the island in aday or two, it was observed, that a kind of proclamation wasimmediately made through the villages, inquiring the people to bringin their hogs and vegetables, for the king to present to theorono, [13] on his quitting the country. Accordingly, on the 3rd ofFebruary, being the day preceding the time which had been fixed forthe sailing of the ships, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and Mr. Kingto attend him to the place where Kaoo resided. On their arrival, theyfound the ground covered with parcels of cloth, at a small distancefrom which lay an immense quantity of vegetables; and near them was alarge herd of hogs. At the close of the visit, the greater part of thecloth, and the whole of the hogs and vegetables, were given byTerreeoboo to the captain and Mr. King; who were astonished at thevalue and magnificence of the present; for it far exceeded every thingof the kind which they had seen either at the Friendly or SocietyIslands. Mr. King had in so high a degree conciliated the affections, and gained the esteem, of the inhabitants of Owhyhee, that, withoffers of the most flattering nature, he was strongly solicited toremain in the country. Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed Mr. King to be, with a formal request, that hemight be left behind. To avoid giving a positive refusal to an offerwhich was so kindly intended, the captain told them that he could notpart with Mr. King at that time, but that, on his return to the islandin the next year, he would endeavour to settle the matter to theirsatisfaction. [Footnote 13: Orono was a title of high honour, which had been bestowed on Captain Cook] Early on the 4th, the ships sailed out of Karakakooa Bay, beingfollowed by a large number of canoes. It was our commander's design, before he visited the other islands, to finish the survey of Owhyhee, in hopes of meeting with a road better sheltered than the bay he hadjust left. In case of not succeeding in this respect, he purposed totake a view of the south-east part of Mowee, where he was informedthat he should find an excellent harbour. The circumstances which brought Captain Cook back to Karakakooa Bay, and the unhappy consequences that followed, I shall give from Mr. Samwell's narrative of his death. This narrative was, in the mostobliging manner, communicated to me in manuscript, by Mr. Samwell, with entire liberty to make such use of it as I should judge proper. Upon a perusal of it, its importance struck me in so strong a light, that I wished to have it separately laid before the world. Accordingly, with Mr. Samwell's concurrence, I procured itspublication, that, if any objections should be made to it, I might beable to notice them in my own work. As the narrative hath continuedfor more than two years unimpeached and uncontradicted, I esteemmyself fully authorized to insert it in this place, as containing themost complete and authentic account of the melancholy catastrophe, which, at Owhyhee, befell our illustrious navigator and commander. 'On the 6th, we were overtaken by a gale of wind; and the next night, the Resolution had the misfortune of springing the head of herforemast, in such a dangerous manner, that Captain Cook was obliged toreturn to Keragegooah, [14] in order to have it repaired; for we couldfind no other convenient harbour on the island. The same gale hadoccasioned much distress among some canoes, that had paid us a visitfrom the shore. One of them, with two men and a child on board, waspicked up by the Resolution, and rescued from destruction; the men, having toiled hard all night, in attempting to reach the land, were somuch exhausted, that they could hardly mount the ship's side. Whenthey got upon the quarter-deck, they burst into tears, and seemed muchaffected with the dangerous situation from which they had escaped; butthe little child appeared lively and cheerful. One of the Resolution'sboats was also so fortunate as to save a man and two women, whosecanoe had been upset by the violence of the waves. They were broughton board, and, with the others, partook of the kindness and humanityof Captain Cook. [Footnote 14: It is proper to take notice, that Mr. Samwell spells the names of several persons and places differently from what is dune in the history of the voyage. For instance, Karakakooa he calls Ke, rag, e, goo, all, Terreeoboo Kariopoo, Kowrowa Kavaroah, Kaneecab areea Kaneekapo, herei, Maiha maiha Ka, mea, mea. ] 'On the morning of Wednesday, the 10th, we were within a few miles ofthe harbour; and were soon joined by several canoes, in which appearedmany of our old acquaintances, who seemed to have come to welcome usback. Among them was Coo, aha, a priest: he had brought a small pig, and some cocoa-nuts in his hand, which, after having chanted a fewsentences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, andhastened on board the Resolution, to perform the same friendlyceremonies before Captain Cook. Having but light winds all that day, we could not gain the harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the firstrank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board theDiscovery. His name was Ka, mea, mea: he was dressed in a very richfeathered cloak, which he seemed to have brought for sale, but wouldpart with it for nothing except iron daggers. These the chiefs, sometime before our departure, had preferred to every other article; for, having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools, theybegan to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kameamea procurednine daggers for his cloak; and, being pleased with his reception, heand his attendants slept on board that night. 'In the morning of the 11th of February, the ships anchored again inKeragegooah Bay, and preparation was immediately made for landing theResolution's foremast. We were visited but by few of the Indians, because there were but few in the bay. On our departure, thosebelonging to other parts had repaired to their several habitations, and were again to collect from various quarters, before we couldexpect to be surrounded by such multitudes as we had once seen in thatharbour. In the afternoon, I walked about a mile into the country, tovisit an Indian friend, who had, a few days before, come near twentymiles, in a small canoe, to see me, while the ship lay becalmed. Asthe canoe had not left us long before a gale of wind came on. I wasalarmed for the consequence: however, I had the pleasure to find, thatmy friend had escaped unhurt, though not without some difficulties. Itake notice of this short excursion, merely because it afforded me anopportunity of observing, that there appeared no change in thedisposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw nothing that couldinduce me to think, that they were displeased with our return, orjealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, thatabundant good nature, which had always characterized them, seemedstill to glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance. 'The next day, February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo, bythe chiefs: a solemnity, it seems, that was requisite to be observed, before Kariopoo, the king, paid his first visit to Captain Cook, afterhis return. He waited upon him the same day, on board the Resolution, attended by a large train, some of which bore the presents designedfor Captain Cook; who received him in his usual friendly manner, andgave him several articles in return. This amicable ceremony beingsettled, the taboo was disolved; matters went on in the usual train;and the next day, February the 13th we were visited by the natives ingreat numbers: the Resolution's mast was landed, and the astronomicalobservatories erected on their former situation. I landed, withanother gentleman, at the town of Kavaroah, where we found a greatnumber of canoes, just arrived from different parts of the island, andthe Indians busy in constructing temporary huts on the beach, fortheir residence during the stay of the ships. On our return on boardthe Discovery, we learned, that an Indian had been detected instealing the armourer's tongs from the forge, for which he received apretty severe flogging, and was sent out of the ship. Notwithstandingthe example made of this man, in the afternoon another had theaudacity to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, withwhich he jumped overboard and swam for the shore. The master and amidshipman were instantly dispatched after him, in the small cutter. The Indian, seeing himself pursued, made for a canoe; his countrymentook him on board, and paddled as swift as they could towards theshore; we fired several muskets at them, but to no effect, for theysoon got out of the reach of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs, whowas at that time on board the Discovery, understanding what hadhappened, immediately went ashore, promising to bring back the stolengoods. Our boat was so far distanced, in chasing the canoe which hadtaken the thief on board, that he had time to make his escape into thecountry. Captain Cook, who was then ashore, endeavoured to intercepthis landing; but it seems, that he was led out of the way by some ofthe natives, who had officiously intruded themselves as guides. As themaster was approaching near the landing place, he was met by some ofthe Indians in a canoe: they had brought back the tongs and chisel, together with another article, that we had not missed, which happenedto be the lid of the water cask. Having recovered these things, he wasreturning on board, when he was met by the Resolution's pinnace, withfive men in her, who, without any orders, had come from theobservatories to his assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced hethought himself strong enough to insist upon having the thief, or thecanoe which took him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view heturned back; and having found the canoe on the beach, he was preparingto launch it into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, andinsisted upon his not taking it away, as it was his property. Theofficer not regarding him, the chief seized upon him, pinioned hisarms behind, and held him by the hair of his head; on which one of thesailors struck him with an oar; Pareah instantly quitted the officer, snatched the oar out of the man's hand, and snapped it in two acrosshis knee. At length the multitude began to attack our people withstones. They made some resistance, but were soon overpowered, andobliged to swim for safety to the small cutter, which lay farther outthan the pinnace. The officers, not being expert swimmers, retreatedto a small rock in the water, where they were closely pursued by theIndians. One man darted a broken oar at the master; but his footslipping at the time, he missed him, which fortunately saved thatofficer's life. At last, Pareah interfered, and put an end to theirviolence. The gentlemen, knowing that his presence was their onlydefence against the fury of the natives, entreated him to stay withthem, till they could get off in the boats; but that he refused, andleft them. The master went to seek assistance from the party at theobservatories; but the midshipman chose to remain in the pinnace. Hewas very rudely treated by the mob, who plundered the boat of everything that was loose on board, and then began to knock her to pieces, for the sake of the iron work; but Pareah fortunately returned in timeto prevent her destruction. He had met the other gentleman on his wayto the observatories, and suspecting his errand, had forced him toreturn. He dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen toreturn on board; they represented, that all the oars had been takenout of the boat on which he brought some of them back, and thegentlemen were glad to get off without farther molestation. They hadnot proceeded far, before they were overtaken by Pareah, in a canoe:he delivered the midshipman's cap, which had been taken from him inthe scuffle, joined noses with them, in token of reconciliation, andwas anxious to know, if Captain Cook would kill him for what hadhappened. They assured him of the contrary, and made signs offriendship to him in return. He then left them, and paddled over tothe town of Kavaroah, and that was the last time we ever saw him. Captain Cook returned on board soon after, much displeased with thewhole of this disagreeable business; and the same night sent alieutenant on board the Discovery to learn the particulars of it, asit had originated in that ship. 'It was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry and confusionattending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always been on termsparticularly friendly with us) came from the spot where it happened, with a hog to sell on board the Discovery: it was of an extraordinarylarge size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger of an unusuallength. He pointed to us, that it must be as long as his arm. CaptainClerke not having one of that length, told him he would get, one madefor him by the morning; with which being satisfied, he left the hog, and went ashore without making any stay with us. It will not bealtogether foreign to the subject, to mention a circumstance, thathappened to-day on board the Resolution. An Indian chief asked CaptainCook, at his table, if he was a Tata Toa; which means a fighting man, or a soldier. Being answered in the affirmative, he desired to see hiswounds. Captain Cook held out his right hand, which had a scar uponit, dividing the thumb from the finger, the whole length of themetacarpal bones. The Indian, being thus convinced of his being a Toa, put the same question to another gentleman present, but be happened tohave none of those distinguishing marks; the chief then said, that hehimself was a Toa, and shewed the scars of some wounds he had receivedin battle. Those who were on duty at the observatories, weredisturbed, during the night, with shrill and melancholy sounds, issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be thelamentations of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might havefilled their minds with apprehension for the safety of their husbands;but, be that as it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels withunusual awe and terror. 'To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians, in the night, took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoyof one of her anchors: they had carried her off so quietly that we didnot miss her till the morning, Sunday, February the 14th. CaptainClerke lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cook to acquaint him withthe accident: he returned on board, with orders for the launch andsmall cutter, to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, andlie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoesthat might attempt to get out; and, if he found it necessary, to fireupon them. At the same time, the third lieutenant of the Resolution, with the launch and small cutter, was sent on the same service, to theopposite point of the bay; and the master was dispatched in the largecutter, in pursuit of a double canoe, already under sail, making thebest of her way out of the harbour. He soon came up with her, and byfiring a few muskets, drove her on shore, and the Indians left her:this happened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who bore the title ofOrono. He was on board himself, and it would have been fortunate, ifour people had secured him, for his person was held as sacred as thatof the king. During this time, Captain Cook was preparing to go ashorehimself, at the town of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person ofKariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to anotherpart of the island, out of our reach. This appeared the most effectualstep that could be taken, on the present occasion, for the recovery ofthe boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued, in similarcases, at other islands in these seas, and it had always been attendedwith the desired success: in fact, it would be difficult to point outany other mode of proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attainthe object in view; we had reason to suppose, that the king and hisattendants had fled when the alarm was first given: in that case, itwas Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes which werehauled upon the beach. He left the ship about seven o'clock, attendedby the lieutenant of marines, a serjeant, corporal, and seven privatemen: the pinnace's crew were also armed, and under the command of Mr. Roberts. As they rowed towards the shore, Captain Cook ordered thelaunch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in order toassist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy of notice; for itclearly shews, that he was not unapprehensive of meeting withresistance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary preparationfor the safety of himself and his people. I will venture to say, that, from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not one, beside himself, who judged that such precaution was absolutelyrequisite: so little did his conduct, on the occasion, bear the marksof rashness, or a precipitate self-confidence! He landed, with themarines, at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah: the Indiansimmediately flocked round, as usual, and shewed him the customarymarks of respect, by prostrating themselves before him. --There were nosigns of hostilities, or much alarm among them. Captain Cook, however, did not seem willing to trust to appearances; but was particularlyattentive to the disposition of the marines, and to have them keptclear of the crowd. He first inquired for the king's sons, two youthswho were much attached to him, and generally his companions on board. Messengers being sent for them, they soon came to him, and informinghim, that their father was asleep, at a house not far from them, heaccompanied them thither, and took the marines along with them. As hepassed along, the natives every where prostrated themselves beforehim, and seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had alwaysshown to his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom wasKanynah, and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in order, according to their usual custom; and, being ignorant of his intentionin coming on shore, frequently asked him, if he wanted any hogs, orother provisions: he told them that he did not, and that his businesswas to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he ordered some ofthe Indians to go in, and inform Kariopoo, that he waited without tospeak with him. They came out two or three times, and instead ofreturning any answer from the king, presented some pieces of red clothto him, which made Captain Cook suspect that he was not in the house;he therefore desired the lieutenant of marines to go in. Thelieutenant found the old man just awaked from sleep and seeminglyalarmed at the message; but he came out without hesitation. CaptainCook took him by the hand, and in a friendly manner asked him to go onboard, to which he very readily consented. Thus far matters appearedin a favourable train, and the natives did not seem much alarmed orapprehensive of hostility on our side; at which Captain Cook expressedhimself a little surprised, saying, that as the inhabitants of thattown appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, he should not molestthem, but that he must get the king on board. Kariopoo sat down beforehis door, and was surrounded by a great crowd: Kanynah and his brotherwere both very active in keeping order among them. In a little time, however, the Indians were observed arming themselves with long spears, clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, which they use asarmour. This hostile appearance increased, and became more alarming, on the arrival of two men in a canoe from the opposite side of thebay, with the news of a chief, called Kareemoo, having been killed byone of the Discovery's boats. In their passage across, they had alsodelivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that information, the women, who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfasts, andconversing familiarly with our people in the boats, retired, and aconfused murmur spread through the crowd. An old priest came toCaptain Cook, with a cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held out to himas a present, at the same time singing very loud. He was often desiredto be silent, but in vain: he continued importunate and troublesome, and there was no such thing as getting rid of him or his noise: itseemed as if he meant to divert their attention from his countrymen, who were growing more tumultuous, and arming themselves in everyquarter. Captain Cook, being at the same time surrounded by a greatcrowd, thought his situation rather hazardous: he therefore orderedthe lieutenant of marines to march his small party to the waterside, where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore: the Indiansreadily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interruptthem. The distance they had to go might be about fifty or sixty yards;Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompaniedhim very willingly: he was attended by his wife, two sons, and severalchiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savagenoise. Keowa, the youngest son, went directly into the pinnace, expecting his father to follow: but just as he arrived at thewaterside, his wife threw her arms about his neck, and, with theassistance of two chiefs, forced him to sit down by the side of adouble canoe. Captain Cook expostulated with them, but to no purpose:they would not suffer the king to proceed, telling him, that he wouldbe put to death if he went on board the ship. Kariopoo, whose conductseemed entirely resigned to the will of others, hung down his head, and appeared much distressed. 'While the king was in this situation, a chief, well known to us, ofthe name of Coho, was observed lurking near, with an iron dagger, partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly with the intention ofstabbing Captain Cook, or the lieutenant of marines. The latterproposed to fire at him, but Captain Cook would not permit it. Cohoclosing upon them, obliged the officer to strike him with his piece, which made him retire. Another Indian laid hold of the sergeant'smusket, and endeavoured to wrench it from him, but was prevented bythe lieutenant's making a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing the tumultincrease, and the Indians growing more daring and resolute, observed, that if he were to take the king off by force, he could not do itwithout sacrificing the lives of many of his people. He then paused alittle, and was on the point of giving his orders to re-embark, when aman threw a stone at him; which he returned with a discharge of smallshot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded). The man, having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt: hebrandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, whobeing still unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing withball, knocked him down with his musket. He expostulated strongly withthe most forward of the crowd, upon their turbulent behaviour. He hadgiven up all thoughts of getting the king on board, as it appearedimpracticable; and his care was then only to act on the defensive, andto secure a safe embarkation for his small party, which was closelypressed by a body of several thousand people. Keowa, the king's son, who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on hearing the first firing, was, at his own entreaty, put on shore again; for even at that timeMr. Roberts, who commanded her, did not apprehend that Captain Cook'sperson was in any danger: otherwise he would have detained the prince, which, no doubt, would have been a great check on the Indians. One manwas observed, behind a double canoe, in the action of darting hisspear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him in his owndefence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward inthe tumult: the serjeant observing that he had missed the man he aimedat, received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. Bythis time, the impetuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed; theyfell back in a body, and seemed staggered; but being pushed on bythose behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley ofstones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned itwith a general discharge of musketry, which was instantly followed bya fire from the boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express hisastonishment: he waved his hand to the boats, called to them to ceasefiring, and to come nearer in to receive the marines. Mr. Robertsimmediately brought the pinnace as close to the shore as he could, without grounding, notwithstanding the showers of stones that fellamong the people: but ---- the lieutenant, who commanded in thelaunch, instead of pulling in to the assistance of Captain Cook, withdrew his boat farther off, at the moment that every thing seems tohave depended upon the timely exertions of those in the boats. By hisown account, he mistook the signal, but be that as it may, thiscircumstance appears to me, to have decided the fatal turn of theaffair, and to have removed every chance which remained with CaptainCook, of escaping with his life. The business of saving the marinesout of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon thepinnace; which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were, ina great measure, prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving whatassistance they otherwise might have done, to Captain Cook; so that heseems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted theassistance of both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For, notwithstanding that they kept up a fire on the crowd, from thesituation to which they removed in that boat, the fatal confusionwhich ensued on her being withdrawn, to say the least of it, must haveprevented the full effect that the prompt co-operation of the twoboats, according to Captain Cook's orders, must have had, towards thepreservation of himself and his people. [15] At that time, it was tothe boats alone that Captain Cook had to look for his safety; for, when the marines had fired, the Indians rushed among them, and forcedthem into the water, where four of them were killed: their lieutenantwas wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the pinnace. Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock: as observedmaking for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the back of hishead, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his musket under theother arm. An Indian was seen following him, but with caution andtimidity; for he stopped once or twice, as if undetermined to proceed. At last he advanced upon him unawares, and with a large club, orcommon stake, gave him a blow on the back of the head, and thenprecipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have stunned CaptainCook: he staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand and one knee, and dropped his musket. As he was rising, and before he could recoverhis feet, another Indian stabbed him in the back of the neck with aniron dagger. He then fell into a bit of water about knee deep, whereothers crowded upon him, and endeavoured to keep him under: butstruggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and castinghis look towards the pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. Though theboat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet from thecrowded and confused state of the crew, it seems, it was not in theirpower to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in deeperwater: he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and beingalmost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, and wasendeavouring to support himself by it, when a savage gave him a blowwith a club, and he was seen alive no more. They hauled him uplifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a savage pleasure inusing every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out ofeach other's hands, to have the horrid satisfaction of piercing thefallen victim of their barbarous rage. [Footnote 15: I have been informed on the best authority, that in the opinion of Captain Philips, who commanded the marines, and whose judgment must be of the greatest weight, it is extremely doubtful whether any thing could successfully have been done to preserve the life of Captain Cook, even if no mistake had been committed on the part of the launch. ] 'I need make no reflection on the great loss we suffered on thisoccasion, or attempt to describe what we felt. It is enough, to say, that no man was ever more beloved or admired: and it is truly painfulto reflect that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want ofbeing properly supported; a fate, singularly to be lamented, as havingfallen to his lot, who had ever been conspicuous for his care of thoseunder his command, and who seemed, to the last, to pay as muchattention to their preservation, as to that of his own life. 'If any thing could have added to the shame and indignationuniversally felt on this occasion, it was to find, that his remainshad been deserted, and left exposed on the beach, although they mighthave been brought off. It appears, from the information of four orfive midshipmen, who arrived on the spot at the conclusion of thefatal business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted bythe Indians, who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, anddispersed through the town: so that there seemed no great obstacle toprevent the recovery of Captain Cook's body; but the lieutenantreturned on board without making the attempt. It is unnecessary todwell longer on this painful subject, and to relate the complaints andcensures that fell on the conduct of the lieutenant. It will besufficient to observe that they were so loud as to oblige CaptainClerke publicly to notice them, and to take the depositions of hisaccusers down in writing. The captains bad state of health andapproaching dissolution, it is supposed, induced him to destroy thesepapers a short time before his death. 'It is a painful task to be obliged to notice circumstances which seemto reflect upon the character of any man. A strict regard to truth, however, compelled me to the insertion of these facts, which I haveoffered merely as facts, without presuming to connect with them anycomment of my own: esteeming it the part of a faithful historian, "toextenuate nothing, nor set down aught in malice. " 'The fatal accident happened at eight o'clock in the morning, about anhour after Captain Cook landed. It did not seem that the king, or hissons, were witnesses to it: but it is supposed, that they withdrew inthe midst of the tumult. The principal actors were the other chiefs, many of them the king's relations and attendants; the man who stabbedhim with the dagger was called Nooah. I happened to be the only onewho recollected his person, from having on a former occasion mentionedhis name in the journal I kept. I was induced to take particularnotice of him, more from his personal appearance than any otherconsideration, though he was of high rank, and a near relation of theking: he was stout and tall, with a fierce look and demeanour, and onewho united in his figure the two qualities of strength and agility, ina greater degree than ever I remembered to have seen before in anyother man. His age might be about thirty, and by the white scurf onhis skin, and his sore eyes, he appeared to be a hard drinker of kava. He was a constant companion of the king, with whom I first saw him, when he paid a visit to Captain Clerke. The chief who first struckCaptain Cook with the club, was called Karimano, craha, but I did notknow him by his name. These circumstances I learned of honestKaireekea, the priest; who added, that they were both held in greatesteem on account of that action: neither of them came near usafterward. When the boats left the shore, the Indians carried away thedead body of Captain Cook and those of the marines, to the risingground, at the back of the town, where we could plainly see them withour glasses from the ships. 'This most melancholy accident appears to have been altogetherunexpected and unforeseen, as well on the part of the natives asourselves. I never saw sufficient reason to induce me to believe, thatthere was any thing of design, or a preconcerted plan on their side, or that they purposely sought to quarrel with us: thieving, which gaverise to the whole, they were equally guilty of in our first and secondvisits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happenedbetween us: their petty thefts were generally overlooked, butsometimes slightly punished: the boat, which they at last ventured totake away, was an object of no small magnitude to people in oursituation, who could not possibly replace her, and therefore notslightly to be given up. We had no other chance of recovering her, butby getting the person of the king into our possession: on ourattempting to do that, the natives became alarmed for his safety, andnaturally opposed those whom they deemed his enemies. In the suddenconflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable misfortune of losing ourexcellent commander, in the manner already related. It is in thislight the affair has always appeared to me, as entirely accidental, and not in the least, owing to any previous offence received, orjealousy of our second visit entertained by the natives. 'Pareah seems to have been the principal instrument in bringing aboutthis fatal disaster. We learned afterward, that it was he who hademployed some people to steal the boat: the king did not seem to beprivy to it, or even apprized of what had happened, till Captain Cooklanded. 'It was generally remarked, that, at first, the Indians shewed greatresolution in facing our fire-arms; but it was entirely owing toignorance of their effect. They thought that their thick mats woulddefend them from a ball as well as from a stone; but being soonconvinced of their error, yet still at a loss to account how suchexecution was done among them, they had recourse to a stratagem, which, though it answered no other purpose, served to shew theiringenuity and quickness of invention. Observing the flashes of themuskets, they naturally concluded, that water would counteract theireffect, and therefore, very sagaciously dipped their mats, or armour, in the sea, just as they came on to face our people: but finding thislast resource to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beachentirely clear. It was an object they never neglected, even at thegreatest hazard, to carry off their slain; a custom, probably owing tothe barbarity with which they treat the dead body of an enemy, and thetrophies they make of his bones. ' In consequence of this barbarity of disposition, the whole remains ofCaptain Cook could not be recovered. For, though every exertion wasmade for that purpose; though negotiations and threatenings werealternately employed, little more than the principal part of his bones(and that with great difficulty) could be procured. By the possessionof them, our navigators were enabled to perform the last offices totheir eminent and unfortunate commander. The bones, having been putinto a coffin, and the service being read over them, were committed tothe deep, on the 21st, with the usual military honours. What were thefeelings of the companies of both the ships, on this occasion, must beleft to the world to conceive; for those who were present, know, thatit is not in the power of any pen to express them. A promotion of officers followed the decease of Captain Cook. CaptainClerke having succeeded of course to the command of the expedition, removed on board the Resolution. By him Mr. Gore was appointed captainof the Discovery, and the rest of the lieutenants obtained an additionof rank, in their proper order. Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who had beenin the last as well as the present voyage, was promoted to the vacantlieutenancy. Not long after Captain Cook's death, an event occurred in Europe, which had a particular relation to the voyage of our navigator, andwhich was so honourable to himself, and to the great nation from whomit proceeded, that it is no small pleasure to me to be able to lay thetransaction somewhat at large before my readers. What I refer to is, the letter which was issued, on the 19th of March, 1779, by Mr. Sartine secretary of the marine department at Paris, and sent to allthe commanders of French ships. The rescript was as follows: 'CaptainCook, who sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, on board the Resolution, in company with the Discovery, Captain Clerke, in order to make somediscoveries on the coasts, islands, and seas of Japan and California, being on the point of returning to Europe; and such discoveries beingof general utility to all nations, it is the king's pleasure, thatCaptain Cook shall be treated as a commander of a neutral and alliedpower, and, that all captains of armed vessels, &c. Who may meet thatfamous navigator, shall make him acquainted with the king's orders onthis behalf, but, at the same time, let him know, that on his part hemust refrain from hostilities. ' By the Marquis of Condorcet we areinformed, that this measure originated in the liberal and enlightenedmind of that excellent citizen and statesman, M. Turgot. 'When war, 'says the marquis, 'was declared between France and England, M. Turgotsaw how honourable it would be to the French nation, that the vesselof Captain Cook should be treated with respect at sea. He composed amemorial, in which he proved, that honour, reason, and even interest, dictated this act of respect for humanity; and it was in consequenceof this memorial, the author of which was unknown during his life, that an order was given not to treat as an enemy the common benefactorof every European nation. ' Whilst great praise is due to M. Turgot, for having suggested theadoption of a measure which hath contributed so much to the reputationof the French government, it must not be forgotten, that the firstthought of such a plan of conduct was probably owing to Dr. BenjaminFranklin. Thus much, at least, is certain, that this eminentphilosopher, when ambassador at Paris from the United States ofAmerica, preceded the court of France in issuing a similarrequisition; a copy Of which cannot fail of being acceptable to thereader. 'To all Captains and Commanders of armed Ships acting by Commissionfrom the Congress of the United States of America, now in war withGreat Britain. 'Gentlemen, 'A ship having been fitted out from England before the commencement ofthis war, to make discoveries of new countries in unknown seas, underthe conduct of that most celebrated navigator and discoverer, CaptainCook; an undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase ofgeographical knowledge facilitates the communication between distantnations, in the exchange of useful products and manufactures, and theextension of arts, whereby the common enjoyments of human life aremultiplied and augmented, and science of other kinds increased, to thebenefit of mankind in general--This is therefore most earnestly torecommend to every one of you, that in case the said ship, which isnow expected to be soon in the European seas on her return, shouldhappen to fall into your hands, you would not consider her as anenemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects contained inher, nor obstruct her immediate return to England, by detaining her, or sending her into any other part of Europe, or to America; but thatyou would treat the said Captain Cook and his people with all civilityand kindness, affording them, as common friends to mankind, all theassistance in your power, which they may happen to stand in need of. In so doing you will not only gratify the generosity of your owndispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the approbationof the Congress, and your other American owners. 'I have the honour to be, Gentlemen, 'Your most obedient, humble servant, B. FRANKLIN, 'Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United States, atthe Court of France. At Passy, near Paris, the 10th day of March, 1779. ' It is observable that, as Dr. Franklin acted on his own authority, hecould only _earnestly recommend_ to the commanders of Americanarmed vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy; and it issomewhat remarkable, that he mentions no more than one ship; CaptainClerke not being noticed in the requisition. In the confidence whichthe doctor expressed, with respect to the approbation of Congress, hehappened to be mistaken. As the members of that assembly, at leastwith regard to the greater part of them, were, not possessed of mindsequally enlightened with that of their ambassador, he was notsupported by his masters in this noble act of humanity, of love toscience, and of liberal policy. The orders he had given were instantlyreversed; and it was directed by Congress, that especial care shouldbe taken to seize Captain Cook, if an opportunity of doing itoccurred. All this preceeded from a false notion, that it would beinjurious to the United States for the English to obtain a knowledgeof the opposite coast of America. The conduct of the court of Spain was regulated by similar principlesof jealousy. It was apprehended by that court, that there was reasonto be cautious of granting, too easily, an indulgence to Captain Cook;since it was not certain what mischiefs might ensue to the Spaniardsfrom a northern passage to their American dominions. M. De Belluga, aSpanish gentleman and officer, of a liberal and philosophical turn ofmind, and who was a member of the Royal Society of London, endeavouredto prevail upon the Count of Florida Blanca, and M. D'Almodaver, togrant an order of protection to the Resolution and Discovery; and heflattered himself, that the ministers of the King of Spain would beprevailed upon to prefer the cause of science to the partial views ofinterest: but the Spanish government was not capable of rising to soenlarged and magnanimous a plan of policy. To the French nation alone, therefore, was reserved the honour of setting an example of wisdom andhumanity, which, I trust, will not hereafter be so uncommon to thehistory of mankind. The progress of the voyage, after the decease of Captain Cook, dothnot fall within the design of the present narrative. [16] [Footnote 16: The particulars of the voyage, after the death of Captain Cook, of which it did not fall under Dr. Kippis's plan to give a narrative, will be found in the Appendix. ] CHAPTER VII. Character of Captain Cook. --Effects of his Voyages. --Testimonies ofApplause. --Commemorations of his Services--Regard paid to hisFamily. --Conclusion. From the relation that has been given of Captain Cook's course oflife, and of the important events in which he was engaged, my readerscannot be strangers to his general character. This, therefore, mightbe left to be collected from his actions, which are the bestexhibitions of the great qualities of his mind. But, perhaps, were Inot to endeavour to afford a summary view of him in these respects, Imight be thought to fail in that duty which I owe to the public on thepresent occasion. It cannot, I think, be denied, that genius belonged to Captain Cook inan eminent degree. By genius, I do not here understand imaginationmerely, or that power of culling the flowers of fancy which poetry, delights in; but an inventive mind; a mind full of resources; and, which, by its own native vigour, can suggest noble objects of pursuitand the most effectual methods of attaining them. This faculty waspossessed by our navigator in its full energy, as is evident from theuncommon sagacity and penetration which be discovered in a vastvariety of critical and difficult situations. To genius Captain Cook added application, without which nothing veryvaluable or permanent can be accomplished, even by the brightestcapacity. For an unremitting attention to whatever related to hisprofession, he was distinguished in early life. In every affair thatwas undertaken by him, his assiduity was without interruption, andwithout abatement. Whereever he came, he suffered nothing, which wasfit for a seaman to know or to practise, to pass unnoticed, or toescape his diligence. The genius and application of Captain Cook were followed by a largeextent of knowledge; a knowledge which, besides a consummateacquaintance with navigation, comprehended a number of other sciences. In this respect the ardour of his mind rose above the disadvantages ofa very confined education. His progress in the different branches ofthe mathematics, and particularly in astronomy, became so eminent, that, at length, he was able to take the lead in making the necessaryobservations of this kind, in the course of his voyages. He attainedlikewise to such a degree of proficiency in general learning, and theart of composition, as to be able to express himself with a manlyclearness and propriety, and to become respectable as the narrator, aswell as the performer, of great actions. Another thing, strikingly conspicuous in Captain Cook, was theperseverance with which he pursued the noble objects to which his lifewas devoted. This, indeed, was a most distinguished feature in hischaracter: in this he scarcely ever had an equal, and never asuperior. Nothing could divert him from the points he aimed at; and hepersisted in the prosecution of them, through difficulties andobstructions, which would have deterred minds of very considerablestrength and firmness. What enabled him to persevere in all his mighty undertakings was theinvincible fortitude of his spirits. Of this, instances without numberoccur in the accounts of his expeditions; two of which I shall takethe liberty of retailing to the attention of my readers. The first is, the undaunted magnanimity with which he prosecuted his discoveriesalong the whole southeast coast of New Holland. Surrounded as he waswith the greatest possible dangers, arising from the perpetualsuccession of rocks, shoals, and breakers, and having a ship that wasalmost shaken to pieces by repeated perils, his vigorous mind had aregard to nothing but what he thought was required of him by his dutyto the public. It will not be easy to find, in the history ofnavigation, a parallel example of courageous exertion. The othercircumstance I would refer to, is the boldness with which, in hissecond voyage after he left the Cape of Good Hope, he pushed forwardinto unknown seas, and penetrated through innumerable mountains andislands of ice, in the search of a southern continent. It was likelaunching into chaos: all was obscurity, all was darkness before him;and no event can be compared with it, excepting the sailing ofMagelhaens, from the straits which bear his name into the PacificOcean. The fortitude of Captain Cook, being founded upon reason, and not uponinstinct, was not an impetuous valour, but accompanied with completeself-possession. He was master of himself on every trying occasion, and seemed to be the more calm and collected, the greater was theexigence of the case. In the most perilous situations, when ourcommander had given the proper directions concerning what was to bedone while he went to rest, he could sleep, during the hours he hadallotted to himself, with perfect composure and soundness. Nothingcould be a surer indication of an elevated mind; of a mind that wasentirely satisfied with itself, and the measures it had taken. To all these great qualities Captain Cook added the most amiablevirtues. That it was impossible for any one to excel him in humanity, is apparent from his treatment of his men through all his voyages, andfrom his behaviour to the natives of the countries which werediscovered by him. The health, the convenience, and, as far as itcould be admitted, the enjoyment of the seamen, were the constantobjects of his attention; and he was anxiously solicitous toameliorate the condition of the inhabitants of the several islands andplaces which he visited. With regard to their thieveries, he candidlyapologized for, and overlooked many offences which others would havesharply punished; and when he was laid under an indispensablenecessity of proceeding to any acts of severity, he never exertedthem without feeling much reluctance and concern. In the private relations of life, Captain Cook was entitled to highcommendation. He was excellent as a husband and a father, and sincereand steady in his friendships: and to this it may be added, that hepossessed that general sobriety and virtue of character, which willalways be found to constitute the best security and ornament of everyother moral qualification. With the greatest benevolence and humanity of disposition, CaptainCook was occasionally subject to a hastiness of temper. This, whichhas been exaggerated by the few (and they are indeed few) who areunfavourable to his memory, is acknowledged by his friends. It ismentioned both by Captain King and Mr. Samwell, in their delineationsof his character. Mr. Hayley, in one of his poems, calls him the_mild Cook_; but, perhaps, that is not the happiest epithet whichcould have been applied to him. Mere mildness can scarcely beconsidered as the most prominent and distinctive feature in the mindof a man, whose powers of understanding and of action were so strongand elevated, who had such immense difficulties to struggle with, andwho must frequently have been called to the firmest exertions ofauthority and command. Lastly, Captain Cook was distinguished by a property which is almostuniversally the concomitant of truly great men, and that is, asimplicity of manners. In conversation he was unaffected andunassuming; rather backward in pushing discourse; but obliging andcommunicative in his answers to those who addressed him for thepurposes of information. It was not possible that, in a mindconstituted like his, such a paltry quality as vanity could find anexistence. In this imperfect delineation of Captain Cook's character, I havespoken of him in a manner which is fully justified by the whole courseof his life and actions, and which is perfectly agreeable to thesentiments of those who were the most nearly connected with him in thehabits of intimacy and friendship. The pictures which some of themhave drawn of him, though they have already been presented to thepublic, cannot here with propriety be omitted. Captain King hasexpressed himself concerning him in the following terms: 'Theconstitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, and capable ofundergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, withoutdifficulty, the coarsest and most ungrateful food:--Great was theindifference with which he submitted to every kind of self-denial. Thequalities of his mind were of the same hardy vigorous kind with thoseof his body. His understanding was strong and perspicacious. Hisjudgment, in whatever related to the services he was engaged in, quickand sure. His designs were bold and manly; and both in the conception, and in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great originalgenius. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with anadmirable presence of mind in the moment of danger. His temper mightperhaps have been justly blamed, as subject to hastiness and passion, had not these been disarmed by a disposition the most benevolent andhumane. 'Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but its mostdistinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance in thepursuit of his object, which was not only superior to the oppositionof dangers, and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from thewant of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages inwhich he was engaged, his eagerness and activity were never in theleast abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment:even those intervals of recreation, which sometimes unavoidablyoccurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that persons whohave experienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse, weresubmitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could notbe employed in making a farther provision for the more effectualprosecution of his designs. ' 'The character of Captain Cook, ' says Mr. Samwell, 'will be bestexemplified by the services he has performed, which are universallyknown, and have ranked his name above that of any navigator of ancientor of modern times. Nature had endowed him with a mind vigorous andcomprehensive, which in his riper years he had cultivated with careand industry. His general knowledge was extensive and various: in thatof his own profession he was unequalled. With a clear judgment, strongmasculine sense, and the most determined resolution; with a geniuspeculiarly turned for enterprise, he pursued his object with unshakenperseverance:--vigilant and active in an eminent degree:--cool andintrepid among dangers; patient and firm under difficulties anddistress; fertile in expedients; great and original in all hisdesigns; active and resolved in carrying them into execution. Thesequalities rendered him the animating spirit of the expedition: inevery situation he stood unrivalled and alone; on him all eyes wereturned; he was our leading star, which, at its setting, left usinvolved in darkness and despair. 'His constitution was strong, his mode of living temperate. --He was amodest man, and rather bashful; of an agreeable lively conversation, sensible and intelligent. In his temper he was somewhat hasty, but ofa disposition the most friendly, benevolent, and humane. His personwas about six feet high, and, though a good looking man, he was plainboth in address and appearance. His head was small; his hair, whichwas a dark brown, he wore tied behind. His face was full ofexpression; his nose exceedingly well shaped; his eyes, which weresmall and of a brown cast, were quick and piercing; his eyebrowsprominent, which gave his countenance altogether an air of austerity. 'He was beloved by his people, who looked up to him as to a father, and obeyed his commands with alacrity. The confidence we placed in himwas unremitting; our admiration of his great talents, unbounded; ouresteem for his good qualities, affectionate and sincere. ---- 'He was remarkably distinguished for the activity of his mind: it wasthat which enabled him to pay an unwearied attention to every objectof the service. The strict economy he observed in the expenditure ofthe ship's stores, and the unremitting care he employed for thepreservation of the health of his people, were the causes that enabledhim to prosecute discoveries in remote parts of the globe, for such alength of time, as had been deemed impracticable by former navigators. The method he discovered for preserving the health of seamen in longvoyages will transmit his name to posterity as the friend andbenefactor of mankind: the success which attended it afforded thistruly great man more satisfaction than the distinguished fame thatattended his discoveries. 'England has been unanimous in her tribute of applause to his virtues, and all Europe has borne testimony to his merit. There is hardly acorner of the earth, however remote and savage, that will not longremember his benevolence and humanity. The grateful Indian, in time tocome, pointing to the herds grazing his fertile plains, will relate tohis children how the first stock of them was introduced into thecountry; and the name of Cook will be remembered among those benignspirits, whom they worship as the source of every good, and thefountain of every blessing. ' At the conclusion of the Introduction to the Voyage to the PacificOcean is an eulogium on Captain Cook, drawn up by one of his ownprofession, of whom it is said, that he is not more distinguished bythe elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. Thoughthis excellent eulogium must be known to many, and perhaps to most ofmy readers, they will not be displeased at having the greater part ofit brought to their recollection. 'Captain James Cook possessed, ' says the writer, 'in an eminentdegree, all the qualifications requisite for his profession and greatundertakings; together with the amiable and worthy qualities of thebest men. 'Cool and deliberate in judging: sagacious in determining: active inexecuting: steady and persevering in enterprising, from vigilance andunremitting caution: unsubdued by labour, difficulties, anddisappointments: fertile in expedients: never wanting presence ofmind; always possessing himself, and the full use of a soundunderstanding. 'Mild, just, but exact in discipline: he was a father to his people, who were attached to him from affection, and obedient from confidence. 'His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, rendered him so entirelymaster of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, and the most dangerous navigations became easy, and almost safe, underhis direction. 'By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of hisship's company, he discovered and introduced a system for thepreservation of the health of seamen in long voyages, which has provedwonderfully efficacious. 'The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind ingeneral; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that respectsuseful accomplishments, that honours science, and loves the benevolentand amiable affections of the heart. It is still more to be deploredby this country, which may justly boast of having produced a manhitherto unequalled for nautical talents; and that sorrow is fartheraggravated by the reflection, that his country was deprived of thisornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might havebeen dreaded, but from whom it was not deserved. For, actuated alwaysby the most attentive care and tender compassion for the savages ingeneral, this excellent man was ever assiduously endeavouring, by kindtreatment, to dissipate their fears, and court their friendship;overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interposing, at the hazard of his life, to protect them from the sudden resentmentof his own injured people. ---- 'Traveller! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great masterin his profession; whose skill and labours have enlarged naturalphilosophy; have extended nautical science; and have disclosed thelong concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty to theformation of this globe, and, at the same time, the arrogance ofmortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the lawsby which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond alldoubt, that the same great Being who created the universe by his_fiat_, by the same ordained our earth to keep a just poise, without a corresponding southern continent, and it does so. _Hestretches out the north over the empty place, and hangeth the earthupon nothing, _ Job XXVI. 7. 'If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary man havenot discovered a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated andunknown before. They have made us acquainted with islands, people, andproductions of which we had, no conception. And if he has not been sofortunate as Americus, to give his name to a continent, hispretensions to such a distinction remain unrivalled; and he will berevered while there remains a page of his own modest account of hisvoyages, and as long as mariners and geographers shall be instructed, by his new map of the southern hemisphere, to trace the variouscourses and discoveries he has made. 'If public services merit public acknowledgments, if the man, whoadorned and raised the fame of his country, is deserving of honours, then Captain Cook deserves to have a monument raised to his memory bya generous and grateful nation. "Virtutis uberrimum alimentum est honos. " Val. Maximus, lib. Ii. Cap. 6. ' The last character I shall here insert of Captain Cook comes from alearned writer, who, in consequence of some disagreements which areunderstood to have subsisted between him and our great navigator, cannot be suspected of intending to celebrate him in the language offlattery. Dr. Reinhold Forster, having given a short account of thecaptain's death, adds as follows: 'Thus fell this truly glorious andjustly admired navigator. If we consider his extreme abilities bothnatural and acquired, the firmness and constancy of his mind, histruly paternal care for the crew intrusted to him, the amiable mannerwith which he knew how to gain the friendship of all the savage anduncultivated nations, and even his conduct towards his friends andacquaintance, we must acknowledge him to have been one of the greatestmen of his age, and that reason justifies the tear which friendshippays to his memory. ' After such an encomium on Captain Cook, lessregard may justly be paid to the deductions from it, which are addedby Dr. Forster. What he hath said concerning the captain's temperseems to have received a tincture of exaggeration, from prejudice andpersonal animosity; and the Doctor's insinuation, that our navigatorobstructed Lieutenant Pickersgill's promotion, is, I have good reasonto believe, wholly groundless. There is another error which must notpass unnoticed. Dr. Forster puts in his caveat against giving the nameof Cook's Straits to the Straits between Asia and America, discoveredby Beering. But if the Doctor had read the Voyage to the PacificOcean, published by authority, he would have seen, that there was nodesign of robbing Beering of the honour to which he was entitled. From a survey of Captain Cook's character, it is natural to extend ourreflections to the effects of the several expeditions in which he wasengaged. These, indeed, must have largely appeared in the generalhistory of his Life; and they have finely been displayed by Dr. Douglas, in his admirable Introduction to the Voyage to the PacificOcean. Under the conduct of so able a guide, I shall subjoin a shortview of the subject. It must, however, be observed, that, with regard to the threeprincipal consequences of our great navigator's transactions, I havenothing further to offer. These are, his having dispelled the illusionof a _Terra Australis Incognita_; his demonstration of theimpracticability of a northern passage from the Pacific to theAtlantic Ocean; and his having established a sure method of preservingthe health of seamen in the longest voyages, and through every varietyof latitude and climate. Concerning each of these capital objects, Ihave already so fully spoken, that it is not in my power to add to theimpression of their importance, and of Captain Cook's merits inrelation to them, which, I trust, is firmly fixed on the mind of everyreader. It is justly remarked, by Dr. Douglas, that one great advantageaccruing to the world from our late surveys of the globe, is, thatthey have confuted fanciful theories, too likely to give birth toimpracticable undertakings. The ingenious reveries of speculativephilosophers, which have so long amused the learned, and raised themost sanguine expectations, are now obliged to submit, perhaps withreluctance, to the sober dictates of truth and experience. Nor will itbe only by discouraging future unprofitable searches, that the latevoyages will be of service to mankind, but also by lessening thedangers and distresses formerly experienced in those seas which arewithin the actual line of commerce and navigation. From the Britishdiscoveries many commercial improvements may be expected to arise inour own times: but, in future ages, such improvements may be extendedto a degree, of which, at present, we have no conception. In the longchain of causes and effects, no one can tell how widely andbeneficially the mutual intercourse of the various inhabitants of theearth may hereafter be carried on, in consequence of the means offacilitating it, which have been explored and pointed out by CaptainCook. The interests of science, as well as of commerce, stand highlyindebted to this illustrious navigator. That a knowledge of the globeon which we live is a very desirable object, no one can call inquestion. This is an object which, while it is ardently pursued by themost enlightened philosophers, is sought for with avidity, even bythose whose studies do not carry them beyond the lowest rudiments oflearning. It need not be said what gratification Captain Cook hathprovided for the world in this respect. Before the voyages of thepresent reign took place, nearly half the surface of the earth washidden in obscurity and confusion. From the discoveries of ournavigator, geography has assumed a new face, and become, in a greatmeasure, a new science; having attained to such a completion, as toleave only some less important parts of the globe to be explored byfuture voyagers. [17] [Footnote 17: Lieutenant Roberts's admirable chart will set this matter in the strongest light. ] Happily for the advancement of knowledge, acquisitions cannot beobtained in any one branch, without leading to acquisitions in otherbranches, of equal, and perhaps of superior consequence. New oceanscannot be traversed, or new countries visited, without presentingfresh objects of speculation and inquiry, and carrying the practice, as well as the theory, of philosophy to a higher degree of perfection. _Nautical astronomy_, in particular, was in its infancy, when thelate voyages were first undertaken; but, during the prosecution ofthem, and especially in Captain Cook's last expedition, even many ofthe petty officers could observe the distance of the moon from thesun, or a star, the most delicate of all observations, with sufficientaccuracy. As for the officers of superior rank, they would have feltthemselves ashamed to have it thought that they did not know how toobserve for, and compute the time at sea; though such a thing had, alittle before, scarcely been heard of among seamen. Nay, first-ratephilosophers had doubted the possibility of doing it with theexactness that could be wished. It must, however, be remembered, thata large share of praise is due to the Board of Longitude, for theproficiency of the gentlemen of the navy in taking observations atsea. In consequence of the attention of that board to this importantobject, liberal rewards have been given to mathematicians forperfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating calculations; andartists have been amply encouraged in the construction of instrumentsand watches, much more accurately and completely adapted to thepurposes of navigation than formerly existed. It is needless to mention what a quantity of additional informationhas been gained with respect to the rise and times of the flowing ofthe tides; the direction and force of currents at sea; and the causeand nature of the polarity of the needle, and the theory of itsvariations. Natural knowledge has been increased by experiments on theeffects of gravity in different and very distant places; and fromCaptain Cook's having penetrated so far into the Southern Ocean, it isnow ascertained, that the phenomenon, usually called the _AuroraBorealis_, is not peculiar to high northern latitudes, but belongsequally to all cold climates, whether they be north or south. Amidst the different branches of science that have been promoted bythe late expeditions, there is none, perhaps, that stands so highlyindebted to them as the science of botany. At least twelve hundred newplants have been added to the known system; and large accessions ofintelligence have accrued with regard to every other part of naturalhistory. This point has already been evinced by the writings of Dr. Sparrman, of the two Forsters, father and son, and of Mr. Pennant; andthis point will illustriously be manifested, when the great work ofSir Joseph Banks shall be accomplished, and given to the world. It is not to the enlargement of natural knowledge only, that theeffects arising from Captain Cook's voyages are to be confined. Another important object of study has been opened by them; and thatis, the study of human nature, in situations various, interesting, anduncommon. The islands visited in the centre of the south PacificOcean, and the principal scenes of the operations of our discoverers, were untrodden ground. As the inhabitants, so far as could beobserved, had continued, from their original settlement unmixed withany different tribe; as they had been left entirely to their ownpowers for every art of life, and to their own remote traditions forevery political or religious custom or institution; as they wereuninformed by science, and unimproved by education, they could not butafford many subjects of speculation to an inquisitive andphilosophical mind. Hence may be collected a variety of importantfacts with respect to the state of man; with respect to hisattainments and deficiences, his virtue and vices, his employments anddiversions, his feelings, manners, and customs, in a certain period ofsociety. Even the curiosities which have been brought from thediscovered islands, and which enrich the British Museum, and the lateSir Ashton Lever's repository, may be considered as a valuableacquisition to this country; as supplying no small fund of informationand entertainment. Few inquiries are more interesting than those which relate to themigrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled theearth. It was known in general, that the Asiatic nation, calledMalayans, possessed, in former times, much the greatest trade in theIndies; and that they frequented, with their merchant ships, not onlyall the coasts of Asia, but ventured over even to the coasts ofAfrica, and particularly to the great island of Madagascar. But that, from Madagascar to the Marquesas and Easter Island, that is, nearlyfrom the east side of Africa, till we approach towards the west sideof America, a space including above half the circumference of theglobe, the same nation of the oriental world should have made theirsettlements, and founded colonies throughout almost every intermediatestage of this immense tract, in islands at amazing distances from themother continent, and the natives of which were ignorant of eachother's existence--is an historical fact, that, before Captain Cook'svoyages, could be but very imperfectly known. He it is who hathdiscovered a vast number of new spots of land lurking in the bosom ofthe South Pacific Ocean, all the inhabitants of which display strikingevidences of their having derived their descent from one commonAsiatic original. Nor is this apparent solely from a similarity ofcustoms and institutions, but is established by a proof which conveysirresistible conviction to the mind, and that is, the affinity oflanguage. The collections that have been made of the words which areused in the widely diffused islands and countries that have latelybeen visited cannot fail, in the hands of such men as a Bryant and aMarsden, to throw much light on the origin of nations, and thepeopling of the globe. --From Mr. Marsden, in particular, who hasdevoted his attention, time, and study to this curious subject, theliterary world may hereafter expect to be highly instructed andentertained. There is another family of the earth, concerning which new informationhas been derived from the voyages of our British navigators. That theEsquimaux, who had hitherto only been found seated on the coasts ofLabradore and Hudson's Bay, agreed with the Greenlanders in everycircumstance of customs, manners, and language, which coulddemonstrate an original identity of nation, had already beenascertained. But that the same tribe now actually inhabit the islandsand coasts on the west side of North America, opposite Kamtschatka, was a discovery, the completion of which was reserved for CaptainCook. From his account it appears that these people have extendedtheir migrations to Norton Sound, Oonalashka, and Prince William'sSound; that is, to nearly the distance of fifteen hundred leagues fromtheir stations in Greenland, and the coast of Labradore. Nor does thiscurious fact rest merely on the evidence arising from similitude ofmanners: for it stands confirmed by a table of words, exhibiting suchan affinity of language as will remove every doubt from the mind ofthe most scrupulous inquirer. Other questions there are, of a very important nature, the solution ofwhich will now be rendered more easy than hath heretofore beenapprehended. From the full confirmation of the vicinity of the twocontinents of Asia and America, it can no longer be represented asridiculous to believe, that the former furnished inhabitants to thelatter. By the facts recently discovered, a credibility is added tothe Mosaic account of the peopling of the earth. That account will, Idoubt not, stand the test of the most learned and rigorousinvestigation. Indeed, I have long been convinced, after the closestmeditation of which I am capable, that sound philosophy and genuinerevelation never militate against each other. The rational friends ofreligion are so far from dreading the spirit of inquiry, that theywish for nothing more than a candid, calm, and impartial examinationof the subject according to all the lights which the improved reasonand the enlarged science of man can afford. One great effect of the voyages made under the conduct of Captain Cookis their having excited a zeal for similar undertakings. Other princesand other nations are engaged in expeditions of navigation anddiscovery. By order of the French government, Mess. De la Perouse andde Langle sailed from Brest, in August, 1785, in the frigates Boussoleand Astroloobe, on an enterprise, the express purpose of which was theimprovement of geography, astronomy, natural history, and philosophy, and to collect accounts of customs and manners. For the more effectualprosecution of the design, several gentlemen were appointed to go outupon the voyage, who were known to excel in different departments ofscience and literature. Mr. Dagelet went as astronomer; M. De laMartinière, P. Recevour, and M. De la Fresne, as naturalists; and theChevalier de Lamanon and M. Monges, junior, as natural philosophers. The officers of the Boussole were men of the best information, and thefirmest resolution: and the crew contained a number of artificers invarious kinds of mechanic employments. Marine watches, and otherinstruments, were provided; and M. Dagelet was particularly directedto make observations with M. Condamine's invariable pendulum, todetermine the differences in gravity, and to ascertain the trueproportion of the equatorial to the polar diameter of the earth. Fromsome accounts which have already been received of these voyages, itappears, that they have explored the coast of California; haveadjusted the situation of more than fifty places, almost whollyunknown; and have visited Owhyhee, and the rest of the SandwichIslands. When the expedition shall be completed, the whole result ofit will doubtless be laid before the public. [18] [Footnote 18: An account of this voyage during the years 1785, 1786, 1787, and 1788, has been published in France, from papers transmitted at different times by La Perouse; but nothing since the year 1788 has been received relative to the progress of the voyage, or the fate of the voyagers, who are all supposed to have perished by shipwreck. ] Although Captain Cook has made such vast discoveries in the NorthernOcean, on and between the east of Asia and the west coast of America, Mr. Coxe has well shewn that there is still room for a fartherinvestigation of that part of the world. Accordingly, the object hasbeen taken up by the Empress of Russia, who has committed the conductof the enterprise to Captain Billings, an Englishman in her majesty'sservice. As Captain Billings was with Captain Cook in his last voyage, he may reasonably be supposed to be properly qualified for thebusiness he has undertaken. The design, with the execution of which heis entrusted, appears to be very extensive and important; and, if itshould be crowned with success, cannot fail of making considerableadditions to the knowledge of geography and navigation. There is one event at home, which has evidently resulted from CaptainCook's discoveries, and which, therefore, must not be omitted. What Irefer to is the settlement at Botany Bay. With the general policy ofthis measure the present narrative has not any concern. The plan, Idoubt not, has been adopted with the best intentions, after thematurest deliberation, and perhaps with consummate wisdom. One evidentadvantage arising from it is, that it will effectually prevent anumber of unhappy wretches from returning to their former scenes oftemptations and guilt, and may open to them the means of industrioussubsistence and moral reformation. If it be wisely and prudently begunand conducted, who can tell what beneficial consequences may springfrom it, in future ages? Immortal Rome is said to have risen from therefuse of mankind. While we are considering the advantages the _discoverers_ havederived from the late navigations, a question naturally occurs, whichis, What benefits have hence accrued to the _discovered_? Itwould be a source of the highest pleasure to be able to answer thequestion to complete satisfaction. But it must be acknowledged, thatthe subject is not wholly free from doubts and difficulties; and thesedoubts and difficulties might be enlarged upon, and exaggerated, by animagination which is rather disposed to contemplate and represent thedark than the luminous aspect of human affairs. In one respect, Mr. Samwell has endeavoured to shew, that the natives of the latelyexplored parts of the world, and especially so far as relates to theSandwich Islands, were not injured by our people; and it was theconstant solicitude and care of Captain Cook, that evil might not becommunicated in any one place to which he came. If he was universallysuccessful, the good which, in various cases, he was instrumental inproducing, will be reflected upon with the more peculiar satisfaction. There is an essential difference between the voyages that have latelybeen undertaken, and many which have been carried on in former times. None of my readers can be ignorant of the horrid cruelties that wereexercised by the conquerors of Mexico and Peru; cruelties which cannever be remembered, without blushing for religion and human nature. But to undertake expeditions with a design of civilizing the world, and meliorating its condition, is a noble object. The recesses of theglobe were investigated by Captain Cook, not to enlarge privatedominion, but to promote general knowledge; the new tribes of theearth were visited as friends; and an acquaintance with theirexistence was sought for, in order to bring them within the pale ofthe offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfectstate of society. Such were the benevolent views which our navigatorwas commissioned by his majesty to carry into execution; and there isreason to hope that they will not be wholly unsuccessful. From thelong continued intercourse with the natives of the Friendly, Society, and Sandwich Islands, some rays of light must have darted on theirinfant minds. The uncommon objects which have been presented to theirobservation, and excited their surprise, will naturally tend toenlarge their stock of ideas, and to furnish new materials for theexercise of their reasonable faculties. It is no small addition totheir comforts of life, and their immediate enjoyments, that will bederived from the introduction of our useful animals and vegetables;and if the only benefit they should ever receive from the visits ofthe English should be the having obtained fresh means of subsistence, that must be considered as a great acquisition. But may not our hopes be extended to still nobler objects? Theconnexion which has been opened with these remote inhabitants of theworld is the first step toward their improvement; and consequences mayflow from it, which are far beyond our present conceptions. Perhaps, our late voyages may be the means appointed by Providence, ofspreading, in due time, the blessings of civilization among thenumerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean, and preparing them forholding an honourable rank among the nations of the earth. Therecannot be a more laudable attempt, than that of endeavouring to rescuemillions of our fellow-creatures from that state of humiliation inwhich they now exist. Nothing can more essentially contribute to theattainment of this great end, than a wise and rational introduction ofthe Christian religion; an introduction of it in its genuinesimplicity; as holding out the worship of one God, inculcating thepurest morality, and promising eternal life as the reward ofobedience. These are views of things which are adapted to generalcomprehension, and calculated to produce the noblest effects. Considering the eminent abilities displayed by Captain Cook, and themighty actions performed by him, it is not surprising that his memoryshould be held in the highest estimation, both at home and abroad. Perhaps, indeed, greater honour is paid to his name abroad than athome. Foreigners, I am informed, look up to him with an admirationwhich is not equalled in this country. A remarkable proof of itoccurs, in the eulogy of our navigator, by Michael Angelo Gianetti, which was read at the royal Florentine academy, on the 9th of June, 1785, and published at Florence, in the same year. Not having seen it, I am deprived of the power of doing justice to its merit. If I am notmistaken in my recollection, one of the French literary academies hasproposed a prize for the best eulogium on Captain Cook; and there canbe no doubt but that several candidates will appear upon the occasion, and exert the whole force of their eloquence on so interesting asubject. To the applauses of our navigator, which have already been inserted, Icannot avoid adding some poetical testimonies concerning him. Thefirst I shall produce is from a foreign poet, M. L'Abbé Lisle. Thisgentleman has concluded his 'Les Jardins' with an encomium on CaptainCook, of which the following lines are a translation: "Give, give me flowers: with garlands of renown Those glorious exiles' brows my hands shall crown, Who nobly sought on distant coasts to find, Or thither bore those arts that bless mankind: Thee chief, brave Cook, o'er whom, to nature dear, With Britain, Gallia drops the pitying tear. To foreign climes and rude, where nought before Announced our vessels but their cannons' roar, Far other gifts thy better mind decreed, The sheep, the heifer, and the stately steed; The plough, and all thy country's arts; the crimes Atoning thus of earlier savage times. With peace each land thy bark was wont to hail, And tears and blessings fill'd thy parting sail. Receive a stranger's praise; nor, Britain, thou Forbid these wreaths to grace thy Hero's brow, Nor scorn the tribute of a foreign song, For Virtue's sons to every land belong: And shall the Gallic Muse disdain to pay The meed of worth, when Louis leads the way? But what avail'd, that twice thou daredst to try The frost-bound sea, and twice the burning sky, That by winds, waves, and every realm revered, Safe, only safe, thy sacred vessel steer'd; That war for thee forgot its dire commands The world's great friend, ah! bleeds by savage hands. " There have not been wanting elegant writers of our own country, whohave embraced with pleasure the opportunities that have offered ofpaying a tribute of praise to Captain Cook. The ingenious and amiableMiss Hannah More has lately seized an occasion of celebrating thehumane intentions of the captain's discoveries. "Had those advent'rous spirits, who explore Through ocean's trackless wastes, the far-sought shore Whether of wealth insatiate, or of power, Conquerors who waste, or ruffians who devour: Had these possess'd, O Cook! thy gentle mind, Thy love of arts, thy love of humankind; Had these pursu'd thy mild and lib'ral plan, _Discoverers_ had not been a curse to man! Then, bless'd Philanthropy! thy social hands Had link'd dissever'd worlds in brothers' bands; Careless, if colour, or if clime divide; Then lov'd and loving, man had liv'd, and died. " Soon after the account arrived in England of Captain Cook's decease, two poems were published in celebration of his memory; one of whichwas an Ode, by a Mr. Fitzgerald, of Gray's Inn. But the first, both inorder of time and of merit, was an Elegy, by Miss Seward, whosepoetical talents have been displayed in many beautiful instances tothe public. This lady, in the beginning of her poem, has admirablyrepresented the principal of humanity by which the captain wasactuated in his undertakings. "Ye, who ere while for Cook's illustrious brow Pluck'd the green laurel and the oaken bough, Hung the gay garlands on the trophied oars, And pour'd his fame along a thousand shores. Strike the slow death-bell!--weave the sacred verse, And strew the cypress o'er his honour'd hearse; In sad procession wander round the shrine, And weep him mortal, whom ye sung divine! "Say first, what Pow'r inspir'd his dauntless breast With scorn of danger, and inglorious rest, To quit imperial London's gorgeous plains, Where, rob'd in thousand tints, bright Pleasure reigns! What Pow'r inspir'd his dauntless breast to brave The scorch'd Equator, and th' Antarctic wave? Climes, where fierce suns in cloudless ardours shine, And pour the dazzling deluge round the Line; The realms of frost, where icy mountains rise, 'Mid the pale summer of the polar skies?-- _It was Humanity!_--on coasts unknown, The shiv'ring natives of the frozen zone, And the swart Indian, as he faintly strays 'Where Cancer reddens in the solar blaze, ' She bade him seek;--on each inclement shore Plant the rich seeds of her exhaustless store; Unite the savage hearts, and hostile hands, In the firm compact of her gentle bands; Strew her soft comforts o'er the barren plain, Sing her sweet lays, and consecrate her fane. "_It was Humanity!_--O Nymph divine! I see thy light step print the burning Line! There thy bright eye the dubious pilot guides, The faint oar struggling with the scalding tides-- On as thou lead'st the bold, the glorious prow, Mild, and more mild, the sloping sunbeams glow; Now weak and pale the lessen'd lustres play, As round th' horizon rolls the timid day; Barb'd with the sleeted snow, the driving hail, Rush the fierce arrows of the polar gale; And through the dim, unvaried, ling'ring hours, Wide o'er the waves incumbent horror lours. " Captain Cook's endeavours to serve the inhabitants of New Zealand, bythe vegetables and animals he left among them, are thus described: "To these the hero leads his living store, And pours new wonders on th' uncultur'd shore; The silky fleece, fair fruit, and golden grain; And future herds and harvests bless the plain, O'er the green soil his kids exulting play, And sounds his clarion loud the bird of day; The downy goose her ruffled bosom laves, Trims her white wing, and wantons in the waves; Stern moves the bull along th' affrighted shores, And countless nations tremble as he roars. " I shall only add the pathetic and animated conclusion of this finepoem: "But ah!--aloft on Albion's rocky steep, That frowns incumbent o'er the boiling deep, Solicitous, and sad, a softer form Eyes the lone flood, and deprecates the storm. -- Ill fated matron!--for, alas! in vain Thy eager glances wander o'er the main! Tis the vex'd billows, that insurgent rave, Their white foam silvers yonder distant wave, Tis not his sails! thy husband comes no more! His bones now whiten an accursed shore!-- Retire, --for hark! the seagull shrieking soars, The lurid atmosphere portentous lours; Night's sullen spirit groans in every gale, And o'er the waters draws the darkling veil, Sighs in thy hair, and chills thy throbbing breast-- Go wretched mourner!--weep thy griefs to rest! "Yet, though through life is lost each fond delight, Though set thy earthly sun in dreary night, Oh! raise thy thoughts to yonder starry plain, And own thy sorrow selfish, weak, and vain: Since, while Britannia, to his virtues just, Twines the bright wreath, and rears th' immortal bust; While on each wind of heaven his fame shall rise, In endless incense to the smiling skies; _The attendant Power_, that bade his sails expand, And waft her blessings to each barren land, Now raptur'd bears him to th' immortal plains, Where Mercy hails him with congenial strains; Where soars, on Joy's white plume, his spirit free, And angels choir him, while he waits for _Thee_. " Captain Cook's discoveries, among other effects, have opened newscenes for a poetical fancy to range in, and presented new images tothe selection of genius and taste. The morals, in particular, of theinhabitants of the South Sea Islands, afford a fine subject for theexercise of a plaintive Muse. Such a Muse hath seized upon thesubject; and, at the same time, has added another wreath to the memoryof our navigator. I refer to a lady, who hath already, in manypassages of her 'Peru, ' in her 'Ode on the Peace. ' and, above all, inher 'Irregular Fragment, ' amply proved to the world, that shepossesses not only the talent of elegant and harmonious versification, but the spirit of true poetry. The poem, which I have now the pleasureof giving for the first time to the public, and which was written atmy request, will be found in the Appendix. It is some what remarkable, that female poets have hitherto been the chief celebrators of CaptainCook in this country. Perhaps a subject which would furnish materialsfor as rich a production as Camoen's Lusiad, and which would adorn thepen of a Hayley or a Cowper, may hereafter call forth the genius ofsome poet of the stronger sex. The Royal Society of London could not lose such a member of their bodyas Captain Cook, without being anxious to honour his name and memoryby a particular mark of respect. Accordingly, it was resolved to dothis by a medal; and a voluntary subscription was opened for thepurpose. To such of the fellows of the society as subscribed twentyguineas, a gold medal was appropriated: silver medals were assigned tothose who contributed a smaller sum; and to each of the other membersone in bronze was given. The subscribers of twenty guineas were, SirJoseph Banks, president; the Prince of Anspach, the Duke of Montague, Lord Mulgrave and Mr. Cavendish, Mr. Peachy, Mr. Perrin, Mr. Poli, andMr. Shuttleworth. Many designs, as might be expected, were proposed onthe occasion. The medal which was actually struck contains, on oneside, the head of Captain Cook in profile, and round it, JAC. COOKOCEANI INVESTIGATOR ACERRIMUS; and on the exergue, REG. SOC. LOND. SOCIO SUO. On the reverse is a representation of Britannia holding aglobe. Round her is inscribed NIL INTENTATUM NOSTRI LIQUERE: and onthe exergue, AUSPICIIS GEORGII III. Of the gold medals which were struck on this occasion, one waspresented to His Majesty, another to the Queen, and a third to thePrince of Wales. Two were sent abroad: the first to the French king onaccount of the protection he had granted to the ships under thecommand of Captain Cook; and a second to the Empress of Russia, inwhose dominions the same ships had been received and treated withevery degree of friendship and kindness. Both these presents werehighly acceptable to the great personages to whom they weretransmitted. The French king expressed his satisfaction in a veryhandsome letter to the Royal Society, signed by himself, andundersigned by the Marquis de Vergennes; and the Empress of Russiacommissioned Count Osterman to signify to Mr. Fitzherbert the senseshe entertained of the value of the present, and that she had causedit to be forthwith deposited in the Museum of the Imperial Academy ofSciences. As a farther testimony of the pleasure she derived from it, the Empress presented to the Royal Society a large and beautiful goldmedal, containing on one side the effigies of herself, and on thereverse a representation of the statue of Peter the Great. After the general assignment of the medals (which took place in thespring of the year 1784), there being a surplus of money stillremaining, the president and council resolved, that an additionalnumber should be struck off in gold, to be disposed of as presents toMrs. Cook, the Earl of Sandwich, Dr. Benjamin Franklin, Dr. Cooke, provost of King's College, Cambridge, and Mr. Planta. About the sametime it was agreed, that Mr. Aubert should be allowed to have a goldmedal of Captain Cook, on his paying for the gold, and the expense ofstriking it: in consideration of his intention to present it to theKing of Poland. During the two visits of the Resolution and Discovery at Kamtschatka, it was from Colonel Behm, the commandant of that province, that theships, and the officers and men belonging to them, had received everykind of assistance which it was in his power to bestow. His liberaland hospitable behaviour to the English navigators is related at largein Captain King's Voyage. Such was the sense entertained of it by theLords of the Admiralty, that they determined to make a present to thecolonel, of a magnificent piece of plate, with an inscriptionexpressive of his humane and generous disposition and conduct. Theelegant pen of Dr. Cooke was employed in drawing up the inscription, which, after it had been subjected to the opinion and correction ofsome gentlemen of the first eminence in classical taste, was asfollows: 'VIRO EGREGIO MANGO DE BEHM; qui Imperatricis Augustissimae Catherinæauspiciis, summaque animi benignitate, saeva, quibus praeerat, Kamtschatkae littora, navibus nautisque Britannicis, hospita praebuit;eosque, in terminis, si qui essent Imperio Russico frustra, explorandis, mala multa perpessos, iterata, vice excepit, refecit, recreavit, et commeatu omni cumulate auctos dimisit; REI NAVALISBRITANNICAE SEPTEMVIRI in aliquam benevolentiae tam insignis memoriam, amicissimo, gratissimoque animo, suo, patriaeque nomine, D. D. D. M. DCC. LXXXI. ' Sir Hugh Palliser, who through life manifested an invariable regardand friendship for Captain Cook, has displayed a signal instance, since the Captain's decease, of the affection and esteem in which heholds his memory. At his estate in Buckinghamshire Sir Hugh hathconstructed a small building, on which he has erected a pillar, containing the fine character of our great navigator that is given atthe end of the Introduction to the last Voyage, and the principal partof which has been inserted in the present work. This character wasdrawn up by a most respectable gentleman, who has long been at thehead of the naval profession, the honourable Admiral Forbes, admiralof the fleet, and general of marines; to whom Captain Cook was onlyknown by his eminent merit and his extraordinary actions. Amidst the numerous testimonies of regard that have been paid toCaptain Cook's merits and memory, the important object of providingfor his family hath not been forgotten. Soon after the intelligencearrived of his unfortunate decease, this matter was taken up by thelords of the Admiralty, with a zeal and an effect, which the followingauthentic document will fully display: 'At the Court at St. James's, the 2nd of February, 1780; '(L. S. ) 'Present, 'The KING's Most Excellent Majesty in Council. 'Whereas there was this day read, at the Board, a memorial from theRight Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated the27th of last month, in the words following: viz. 'Having received an authentic account of the death of that great Navigator, Captain James Cook, who has had the honour of being employed by Your Majesty, in three different voyages, for the discovery of unknown countries in the most distant parts of the globe; we think it our duty humbly to represent to Your Majesty, that this meritorious officer, after having received from Your Majesty's gracious benevolence, as a reward for his public services in two successful circumnavigations, a comfortable and honourable retreat, where he might have lived many years to benefit his family, he voluntarily relinquished that ease and emolument to undertake another of these voyages of discovery, in which the life of a commander, who does his duty, must always be particularly exposed, and in which, in the execution of that duty, he fell, leaving his family, whom his public spirit had led him to abandon, as a legacy to his country. We do therefore humbly propose, that Your Majesty will be graciously pleased to order a pension of two hundred pounds a year to be settled on the widow, and twenty-five pounds a year upon each of the three sons of the said Captain James Cook, and that the same be placed on the ordinary estimate of the navy. 'His Majesty, taking the said memorial into his Royal consideration, was pleased, with the advice of His Privy Council, to order, as it ishereby ordered, that a pension of two hundred pounds a year be settledon the widow, and twenty-five pounds a year upon each of the threesons of the said Captain James Cook, and that the same be placed onthe ordinary estimate of His Majesty's navy; and the LordsCommissioners of the Admiralty are to give the necessary directionsherein accordingly. W. FAWKENER. ' The preceding memorial to the king was signed by the Earl of Sandwich. Mr. Buller, the Earl of Lisburne, Mr. Penton, Lord Mulgrave, and Mr. Mann; and the several officers of the Board of Admiralty seconded theardour of their superiors, by the speed and generosity with which hismajesty's royal grant to Captain Cook's widow and children passedthrough the usual forms. Another occasion was afterwards seized of conferring a substantialbenefit on the captain's family. The charts and plates belonging tothe Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, were provided at the expense ofgovernment; the consequence of which was, that a large profit accruedfrom the sale of the publication. Of this profit, half was consigned, in trust, to Sir Hugh Palliser and Mr. Stephens, to be applied to theuse of Mrs. Cook, during her natural life, and afterwards to bedivided between her children. Honour as well as emolument, hath graciously been conferred by hismajesty upon the descendants of Captain Cook. On the 3rd of September, 1785, a coat of arms was granted to the family, of which a descriptionwill be given below. [19] [Footnote 19: Azure, between the two polar stars Or, a sphere on the plane of the meridian, north pole elevated, circles of latitude for every ten degrees, and of longitude for every fifteen, shewing the Pacific Ocean between sixty and two hundred and forty west, bounded on one side by America, on the other by Asia and New Holland, in memory of the discoveries made by him in that ocean, so very far beyond all former navigators. His track thereon is marked with red lines. And for crest, on a wreath of the colours, is an arm imbowed, vested in the uniform of a captain of the royal navy. In the hand is the union jack, on a staff Proper. The arm is encircled by a wreath of palm and laurel. ] Our navigator had six children; James, Nathaniel, Elizabeth, Joseph, George, and Hugh. Of these, Joseph and George died soon after theirbirth, and Elizabeth in the fifth year of her age. James, the eldestson, who was born at St. Paul's, Shadwell, on the 13th of October, 1763. Is now a lieutenant in his majesty's navy. In a letter, writtenby Admiral Sir Richard Hughes, in 1785, from Grenada, to Mrs. Cook, heis spoken of in terms of high approbation. Nathaniel, who was born onthe 14th of December, 1764, at Mile-End Old Town, was brought uplikewise in the naval service, and was unfortunately lost on board hismajesty's ship Thunderer, Commodore Walsingham, in the hurricane whichhappened at Jamaica, on the 3rd of October, 1730. He is said to havebeen a most promising youth. Hugh, the youngest, was born on the 22ndof May, 1776; and was so called after the name of his father's greatfriend, Sir Hugh Palliser. It hath often been mentioned, in terms of no small regret, that amonument hath not yet been erected to the memory of Captain Cook, inWestminster Abbey. The wish and the hope of such a monument are hinted at in the close ofDr. Douglas's Introduction to the government edition of the lastvoyage; and the same sentiment is expressed by the author of theEulogium, at the end of that Introduction. Sir Hugh Palliser has alsospoken to the like purpose, in a communication I received from him. Itwould certainly redound to the honour of the nation, to order amagnificent memorial of the abilities and services of our illustriousnavigator; on which account, a tribute of that kind may be regarded asa desirable thing. But a monument in Westminster Abbey would be oflittle consequence to the reputation of Captain Cook. His fame standsupon a wider base, and will survive the comparatively perishingmaterials of brass, or stone, or marble. The name of Cook will be heldin honour, and recited with applause, so long as the records of humanevents shall continue in the earth; nor is it possible to say, whatmay be the influence and rewards, which, in other worlds, shall befound to attend upon eminent examples of wisdom and of virtue. APPENDIX. After the death of Captain Cook, and the events immediately succeedingit, Captain Clerke, upon whom the command of the expedition haddevolved, proceeded from Owhyhee, and coasted several of the otherislands of the group. The ships anchored at Atooi to procure water; indoing this our voyagers experienced some interruption from thenatives, and a slight conflict took place, in which one of theislanders was wounded by a musket-shot. They were here told, that, attheir preceding visit, they had left a disorder amongst the women, ofwhich several persons of both sexes had died; and as there was not theslightest appearance of the disorder amongst the natives, at the firstarrival of the vessels, there is too much reason to believe that someof the crew were the authors of that irreparable mischief. Atooi wasin a state of internal warfare; the quarrel had arisen about the goatsCaptain Cook had left at Oneeheow the year before, the property ofwhich was contested by two different chiefs. The goats, which hadincreased to the number of six, and would probably in a few years havestocked all these islands, were destroyed in the contest. Our voyagers left the Sandwich Islands finally on the 15th of March:and stood to the south-west, in hopes of falling in with the island ofModoopapappa, which they were told by the natives lay in thatdirection, about five hours' sail from Taohora; but though the twovessels stretched asunder several miles, they did not discover it. Itis possible it might have been passed in the night, as the islandersdescribed it to be small, sandy, and almost even with the surface ofthe sea. The harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in Awatska Bay, wasappointed for the next rendezvous of the two vessels, in case ofseparation. In the course of their navigation towards Kamtschatka, they traversed that part of the Northern Pacific, in which someislands and lands were laid down in the charts, such as the island ofReia de Plata in De l'Isle's chart, and the land said to have beenseen by John de Gama, in a voyage from China to New Spain, firstdelineated in a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, in 1649; but though at sundry times they had various indications ofland, they discovered none, and those islands and lands must thereforeeither be of trifling extent, or wholly imaginary. A leak, under the larboard bow of the Resolution, which had kept thepeople almost constantly at the pumps, ever since their leaving theSandwich Islands, occasioned a great alarm on the 13th of April. Thewater, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a sufficientvent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in amoment deluged the whole space between decks. The coals would verysoon choke up a pump, and the number of bulky materials that werewashed out of the gunner's store room, and which, by the ship'smotion, were tossed violently from side to side, rendered itimpracticable to bale the water out. No other method was thereforeleft, than to cut a hole through the bulk-head, that separated thecoal-hole from the fore-hold. As soon as the passage was made, thegreatest part of the water was emptied into the well: but the leak wasnow so much increased, that it was necessary to keep one half of thepeople constantly pumping and baling, till the noon of the 15th. On the 23rd, at six in the morning, on the fog clearing away, the landof Kamtschatka appeared, in mountains covered with snow. The weatherwas most severe: the ship appeared to be a complete mass of ice, andthe shrouds were so incrusted with it, as to measure in circumferencemore than double their usual size. The crews suffered very severelyfrom the cold, particularly from having lately left the tropicalclimates; and, but for the foresight and care of their officers, wouldindeed have been in a deplorable state. It was natural to expect, thattheir experience, during their voyage to the north the year before, would have made them sensible of the necessity of paying someattention to their clothing; as it was generally known in both ships, that they were to make another voyage towards the pole; but, with thethoughtlessness of infants, upon their return to a warm climate, theirfur jackets and the rest of their cold-country clothes, were kickedabout the decks, as things of no value. They were of course picked upby the officers, and being put into casks, were, in due season, restored to their owners. On the 25th, when off the entrance of Awatska Bay, the Resolution lostsight of the Discovery, and on the 28th entered the Bay. The officersof the Resolution examined every corner of it, with their glasses, insearch of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, which they had conceivedto be a place of some strength and consideration. At length theydiscovered, on a narrow point of land a few miserable loghouses, andsome conical huts raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty, which, from the situation, they were under the necessity of concludingto be Petropaulowska. 'However, ' says Captain King, 'in justice to thegenerous and hospitable treatment we found here, I shall beg leave toanticipate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him that ourdisappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a serious nature;for, in this wretched extremity of the earth, situated beyond everything that we conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and, asit were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricadoed with ice, and covered with summer snow, in a poor miserable port, far inferiorto the meanest of our fishing-towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a greatness of mind, an elevation of sentiment, which wouldhave done honour to any nation or climate. ' In the morning of the 29th, Captain, then Lieutenant King was sent onshore; and after experiencing much difficulty from the broken ice thatextended nearly half a mile, across which he was obliged to make thebest of his way on foot, was received by the commander of the garrisonat the head of his men consisting of about thirty soldiers. They hadnot seen the ship the preceding day, nor indeed that morning, till theboats were pretty near the ice. Much panic ensued; the garrison wasput under arms, and two field piece placed at the entrance of thecommander's house. All, however, soon wore a friendly aspect, andnothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality of the officer, aserjeant, who commanded in the ostrog, and at whose house they wereentertained. He furnished Lieutenant King, who bad fallen in betweenthe disjointed ice, with a complete suit of clothes of his own; thedinner that was served up consisted of four courses; but theconversation, from the want of an interpreter, no other language beingunderstood there but Russian and Kamtschatdale, was confined to a fewbows and other signs of mutual respect. The serjeant sent of anexpress to Bolcheretsk, where the governor of the province usuallyresided, and whence he had to look for orders what to do, as to theprocurement of the supplies of provisions, and naval stores, which ourpeople wanted. On their return, a sledge drawn by five dogs, with a driver, wasprovided for each of the party. The sailors were highly delighted withthis mode of conveyance, and, what diverted them most was, that thetwo boat-hooks which they had brought, had also a sledge tothemselves. On the 1st of May, the Discovery entered the bay. On the day after, early in the morning, an answer was received from Bolcheretsk. Thedispatches had been sent off on the 29th, about noon, by a sledgedrawn by dogs, so that they were only a little more than three daysand a half in performing a journey of two hundred and seventy miles;Bolcheretsk being about one hundred and thirty-five rules from St. Peter and St. Paul. As the whole stock of live cattle which the country about the baycould afford, amounted only to two heifers, Captain Clerke found itnecessary to send to Bolcheretsk, and Captain Gore and Lieutenant Kingwere fixed on for the excursion. They proceeded by boats up theAwatska river, then across part of the country in sledges, and thendown the Bolchoireka in canoes. Major Behm, the governor of Kamtschatka, received them, not only withthe utmost politeness, but with the most engaging cordiality; and allthe principal people of the town vied with each other who should shewthe most civility to strangers from the other extremity of the globe. A list of the naval stores, the number of cattle, and the quantity offlour wanted by the navigators, was given to Major Behm, who insistedupon supplying all their wants; and when they desired to be madeacquainted with the price of the articles, with which they were to besupplied, and proposed, that Captain Clerke should give bills to theamount on the Victualling-office in London, the major positivelyrefused, and whenever it was afterward urged, stopped them short bysaying, he was certain he could not oblige his mistress, the empress, more than in giving every assistance in his power to her good friendsand allies, the English; and that it would be a particularsatisfaction to her, to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in suchservices; that he could not therefore act so contrary to the characterof his empress, as to accept of any bills; but that, to accommodatethe matter, he would take a bare attestatation of the particulars withwhich we might be furnished, and that this he would transmit to hiscourt, as a certificate of having performed his duty. The town of Bolcheretsk consists of several rows of low buildings, barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, a good looking church, and a court-room, with a great number of balagans (summer habitations)belonging to the Kamtschatdales, at the end of the town. Theinhabitants amount to between five and six hundred. It would exceed the bounds to which this sketch must necessarily beconfined, to enumerate one half of the instances of civility andattention which Major Behm, his lady, the officers of the garrison, and the inhabitants of the town bestowed upon the English travellers. One generous present cannot, however, be passed over in silence, bothbecause it consisted of the greatest part of their small store of thearticle, and because it called forth from the British seamen acorresponding generosity. Being informed of the privations the sailorshad suffered from the want of tobacco, Major Behm sent four bags ofit, weighing upwards of one hundred pounds each, which he begged mightbe presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under hiscommand, to our sailors. When the seamen were told of it, the crews ofboth ships desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grogmight be stopped, and their allowance of spirits, presented, on theirpart, to the garrison of Bolcheretsk, as they had reason to conclude, that brandy was scarce in the country and would be very acceptable, since the soldiers on shore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. When it is considered how much the sailors would feel from thestoppage of their allowance of grog, and that this offer would deprivethem of it during the inclement season they had to expect on theirensuing expedition to the north, the sacrifice must be looked upon asgenerous and extraordinary; and, that they might not suffer by it, Captain Clerke substituted, in the room of the very small quantity themajor could be prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. When the party returned to Petropaulowska, Major Behm accompaniedthem, and visited the ships. He had resigned the command ofKamtschatka, and was in a short time to return to St. Petersburgh; ournavigators therefore committed to his care dispatches for England, with the journals and charts of the voyage so far. They got about twenty head of cattle, about nine thousand weight ofrye flour, and a variety of other provisions and refreshments here, especially fish, with which they were absolutely overpowered fromevery quarter; and, having completed their water, they weighed anchoron the 13th of June, and on the 16th cleared the bay. The volcano, situated to the north of the harbour, was in a state of eruption atthe time. On the 5th of July, our navigators passed through Beering's Straits, having run along the Asiatic coast; they then stretched over to thatof America, with a view of exploring it between the latitudes of 68°and 69°. But in this attempt they were disappointed, being stopped, onthe 7th, by a large and compact field of ice connected with the land. On the 9th, they had sailed nearly forty leagues to the westward, along the edge of the ice, without seeing any opening, and hadtherefore no prospect of advancing farther north. --Until the 27th, however, they continued to seek a passage, first on the American, andthen on the Asiatic side; but were never able to penetrate farthernorth than 70° 33', which was five leagues short of the point to whichthey had advanced the season before. At one time, in attempting to penetrate to the northwestward, theDiscovery was in a very dangerous situation. She became so entangledby several large pieces of ice, that her way was stopped, andimmediately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside foremost onthe edge of a considerable body of ice, and having at the same time anopen sea to windward the surf caused her to strike violently upon it. This mass at length either so far moved or broke, as to set them atliberty to make another trial to escape; but, before the ship gatheredway enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward onanother fragment; and the swell making it unsafe to lie to windward, and finding no chance of getting clear, they pushed into a smallopening, furled their sails, and made fast with ice-hooks. A change ofwind, however, taking place in the afternoon, the ice began toseparate, and, setting all their sails, they forced a passage throughit. The vessel had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing from herbows, and became very leaky from the strokes she received when shefell on the edge of the ice. In these high latitudes, our navigators killed several sea-horses, andalso two white bears; the flesh of the latter afforded a few excellentmeals of fresh meat. It had indeed a strong fishy taste, but was inevery respect superior to that of the sea-horse, which nevertheless, the sailors were again persuaded, without much difficulty, to preferto their salted provisions. Finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearerapproach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, Captain Clerke at length determined to lose no more time in thepursuit of what seemed utterly unattainable, and to sail for AwatskaBay, to repair their damages, and before the winter should set in, toexplore the coast of Japan on their way towards Europe. To the greatjoy, therefore, of every individual on board both ships, they turnedtheir faces towards home; and the delight and satisfaction theyexperienced on the occasion, notwithstanding the tedious voyage theyhad to make, and the immense distance they had to run, were as freelyentertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if they had been alreadyin sight of the land's End. On the 31st, they repassed Beering's Straits. With respect to thepracticability of a north-east or north-west passage into the PacificOcean, through those straits, from the result of their attempts itappears, that the north of the straits is clearer of ice in Augustthan in July, and perhaps in a part of September it may be still morefree. But, after the equinox, the days shorten so fast, that nofarther thaw can be expected, and so great an effect cannot rationallybe allowed to the warm weather in the first half of September as toimagine it capable of dispersing the ice from the most northern partsof the American coast. But admitting this to be possible, it would bemadness to attempt to run from the Icy Cape to the known parts ofBaffin's Bay (a distance of four hundred and twenty leagues) in soshort a time as that passage can be supposed to remain open. Upon theAsiatic side, there appears still less probability of success; for, though Deshneff, a Russian navigator, about a century and a half ago, passed round the north-east point of Asia, no voyager has yet beenable to double Cape Taimura beyond the mouth of the Lena, whichstretches to the 78° of latitude. Captain Clerke's health now rapidly declined, and, on the 17th ofAugust he was no longer able to get out of his bed. On the 21st, theymade the coast of Kamtschatka; and on the following day, at nine inthe morning. Captain Clerke died. [19] His disease was a consumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and of which hehad lingered during the whole voyage. [Footnote 19: Captain Clerke departed this life in the thirty-eighthyear of his age. He was brought up to the navy from his earliestyouth, and had been in several actions during the war which began in1756. In the action between the Bellona and the Courageux, beingstationed in the mizen-top, he was carried over-board with the mast;but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was a midshipmanin the Dolphin, commanded by Captain Byron, in her voyage round theworld: after which he served on the American station. In 1768, he madehis second voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, as master's mate:and, in consequence of the death of Mr. Hicks, which happened on the23rd of May, 1771, he returned home a lieutenant. His thirdcircumnavigation of the globe was in the Resolution, of which he wasappointed the second lieutenant; and he continued in that situationtill his return in 1775; soon after which he was promoted to the rankof master and commander. In what capacity he sailed with Captain Cookin this last expedition, need not be added. The consumption, of whichCaptain Clerke died, had evidently commenced before he left England, and he lingered under it during the whole voyage. Though his verygradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends, nevertheless, they derived some consolation from the equanimity withwhich he bore his disorder, from the constant flow of good spiritsmaintained by him to his latest hour, and from his submitting to hisfate with cheerful resignation. 'It was, however, impossible, ' saysMr. King, 'not to feel a more than common degree of compassion for aperson, whose life had been a continued scene of those difficultiesand hardships, to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and underwhich he at last sunk. ' _King's Voyage_, p. 280, 281. ] On the 24th, the vessels anchored in the harbour of St Peter, and St. Paul, where the gentlemen on board were received by their Russianfriends, with the same cordiality as before. Captain Gore, upon whomthe command of the expedition now devolved, removed himself to theResolution, and appointed Mr. King to the command of the Discovery. Hesent off an express to the commander at Bolcheretsk, in which herequested to have sixteen head of black cattle. The eruption of thevolcano, which had taken place at the time of the late departure ofthe vessels from Awatska, had done no damage, notwithstanding stoneshad fallen at the ostrog of the size of a goose's egg. Attempts were now made to repair, as far as was practicable, thedamage the Discovery had sustained in the ice, and in removing thesheathing, eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be so veryrotten as to make it necessary to shift it. The carpenters were senton shore in search of a tree large enough for the purpose: luckilythey found a birch, which was the only one of sufficient size in thewhole neighbourhood of the bay. The crews were employed in variousnecessary occupations: amongst which, four men were set apart to haulthe seine for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and ofexcellent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, they salted down near a hogshead a day. The seahorse blubber, withwhich they had stored themselves, during their expedition to thenorth, was boiled down for oil, now become a necessary article, theircandles having been long since all used. The body of Captain Clerke was interred on Sunday the 29th, with allthe solemnity and honours they could bestow, under a tree, in thevalley on the north side of the harbour; a spot, which the priest ofParatounea said, would be, as near as he could guess, in the centre ofthe new church intended to be erected. On the 3rd of September, arrived an ensign from Bolcheretsk, with aletter from Captain Shmalelf, the present commander, who promised thecattle required and that he would himself pay them a visit immediatelyon the arrival of a sloop, which was daily expected from Okotzk. On the morning of the 10th, a Russian galliot, from Okotzk, was towedinto the harbour. She had been thirty-five days on her passage, andhad been seen from the lighthouse a fortnight before, beating uptowards the mouth of the bay. There were fifty soldiers in her, withtheir wives and children, and several other passengers; asub-lieutenant, who came in her, now took the command of the garrison, and from some cause or other, which the English could not learn, theirold friend, the serjeant, the late commander of the place, fell intodisgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the company of hisown officers. From the galliot, our navigators got a small quantity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine, and a hundred and forty skins of flour, containing13, 782 lbs. English. The Hospodin Ivaskin from Verchnei had been desired by Mayor Behm toattend the English officers on their return to the harbour, in orderto be their interpreter. He now came. He was an exile; and was of aconsiderable family in Russia; his father was a general, and hehimself, after having received his education partly in France andpartly in Germany, had been page to the Empress Elizabeth, and ensignin her guards. At the age of sixteen, he was _knowted_, had hisnose slit, and was banished, first to Siberia, end afterward toKamtschatka, where he had lived thirty-one years. He bore in his wholefigure the strongest marks of old age, though he had scarcely reachedhis fifty-fourth year. No one there knew the cause of his banishment, but they took it for granted, that it must have been for somethingvery atrocious, as two or three of the commanders of Kamtschatka, hadin vain endeavoured to get him recalled since the present empress'sreign. For the first twenty years he had not tasted bread, nor beenallowed subsistence of any kind, but had lived during that periodamong the Kamtschatdales, on what his own activity and toil in thechase could procure him. Afterward, he had a small pension grantedhim. This Major Behm by his intercession had caused to be increased toone hundred roubles a year, which is the common pay of an ensign inall parts of the empress's dominions, except in this province, wherethe pay of all the officers is double. This gentleman joined Captains Gore and King on a bear-hunting partyon the 17th, for two days; in which, first from the party being toolarge, and the unavoidable noise that was the consequence of it, andnext, from the unfavourable weather after they separated, they werewholly unsuccessful. On the 22nd, the anniversary of his majesty's coronation, and whenthey were sitting down to as handsome a feast as their situation wouldadmit of, in honour of the day, the arrival of Captain Shmalelf fromBolcheretsk was announced. He partook of their festivities, and setoff on his return on the 25th. Before his departure, he reinstated theserjeant in the command of the place, and took with him thesub-lieutenant who had superseded him. Captain King accompaniedCaptain Shmalelf to the entrance of Awatska river, and on Sunday, the26th, attended him to church at Paratounea. The church is of wood, andby far the best building in the country round about the bay. It isornamented by many paintings, particularly with two pictures of St. Peter and St. Paul, presented by Beering, and which, in the realrichness of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first ofEuropean performances; for all the principal parts of it are made ofthick plates of solid silver, fastened to the canvass, and fashionedinto the various foldings of the robes. The next day another hunting party was set on foot, under thedirection of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebratedbear-hunter. The produce was a female bear, beyond the common size, which they shot in the water, and found dead the next morning in theplace to which she had been watched. The mode of hunting these animalsby the natives is as follows: When they come to the ground frequentedby the bears, their first step is to look for their tracks: these arefound in the greatest numbers leading from the woods down to thelakes, and among the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of thewater. The place of ambuscade being determined on, the hunters nextfix in the ground the crutches upon which their firelocks are made torest, pointing them in the direction they mean to shoot. This done, they kneel, or lie down, and, with their bear-spears by their side, wait for the game. These precautions, which are chiefly taken in orderto make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highlyexpedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear inKamtschatka, that the price of a bear will not purchase more of itthan is sufficient to load a musket four or five times; and, what ismore material, if the bear be not rendered incapable of pursuit by thefirst shot, the consequences are often fatal. He immediately makestowards the place whence the noise and smoke issue, and attacks hisadversaries with great fury. It is impossible for them to reload, asthe animal is seldom at more than twelve or fifteen yards' distancewhen he is fired at: so that, if he does not fall, they immediatelyput themselves in a posture to receive him upon their spears, andtheir safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab as hefirst comes upon them. If he parries the thrust (which bears, by theextraordinary strength and agility of their paws, are often enabled todo) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the conflict becomesvery unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alonesuffice to pay the forfeit. On the 1st of October, the cattle arrived from Verchnei, and the 3rd, being the nameday of the empress, Captain Gore invited the priest ofParatounea, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner, and an entertainmentwas also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison, for the_toions_ of Paratounea and Petropaulowska, and for the bettersort of the Kamtschatdale inhabitants. The rest of the natives ofevery description were invited to partake with the ships' companies, who had a pound of good fat beef served up to each man, and whatremained of their spirits was made into grog, and divided amongstthem. On the 5th, our navigators received from Bolcheretsk a fresh presentof tea, sugar, and tobacco. They were ready for sea, but the weatherprevented them from leaving the bay till the 9th. Just before theyweighed anchor, the drummer of the marines belonging to the Discoverydeserted, having been last seen with a Kamtschatdale woman, to whomhis messmates knew he had been much attached, and who had often beenobserved persuading him to stay behind. This man had been long uselessto them, from a swelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, butthis made them the more unwilling to leave him behind, to become aburden both to the Russians and himself. Some of the sailors weretherefore sent to a well-known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him and his woman. On the return of the party withthe deserter, the vessels weighed, and came out of the bay. Awatska Bay has within its mouth a noble basin of twenty-five miles incircuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the west, Rakoweena to the east, and the small one of St. Peter and St. Paul tothe north. The last mentioned is a most convenient little harbour. Itwill hold with ease half-a-dozen ships moored head and stern, and isfit for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side is formed by alow sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the ostrog is built. Thedeepest water within is seven fathoms, and in every part over a muddybottom. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour. The commerce of this country, as far as regards the exports, isentirely confined to furs and carried on by a company of merchantsinstituted by the empress. Besides these, there are many inferiortraders (particularly Cossacks) scattered through the country. Formerly this commerce was altogether carried on by barter, but latelyevery article is bought and sold for ready money only. Our sailorsbrought a great number of furs with them from the coast of America, and were both astonished and delighted with the quantity of silver themerchants paid down for them; but on finding neither ginshops toresort to, nor tobacco, nor any thing else that they cared for, to behad for money, the roubles soon became troublesome companions, andoften to be seen kicked about the decks. The articles of importation are principally European, several likewisecome from Siberia, Bucharea, the Calmucks, and China. They consist ofcourse woollen and linen cloths, yarn stockings, bonnets and gloves, thin Persian silks, cottons and nankeens, handkerchiefs, brass andcopper pans, iron stoves, files, guns, powder and shot, hardware, looking-glasses, flour, sugar, tanned hides, &c. Though the merchantshave a large profit upon these important goods, they have still alarger upon the furs of Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which isthe great market for them. The best sea-otter skins sell generally inKamtschatka for about thirty roubles each. The Chinese merchant atKiachta purchases them at more than double that price, and sells themagain at Pekin at a great advance, whence a farther profitable tradeis made with some of them to Japan. If, therefore, a skin is worththirty roubles in Kamtchatka, to be transported first to Okotzk, thence by land to Kiachta, a distance of 1364 miles; thence to Pekin, 760 miles more; and after that to be conveyed to Japan, what aprodigiously advantageous trade might be carried on direct to Japan, which is about a fortnight or three weeks' sail from Kamtschatka! It was now resolved, in consequence of the latitude given by theinstructions of the Board of Admiralty, to run along the Kuriles, andto survey the eastern coasts of the Japanese islands, previous toreturning homewards; and Captain Gore gave orders for Macao to be theplace of rendezvous in case of separation. They coasted along the peninsula of Kamtschatka with variable weather, and on the 12th, at six in the afternoon, they saw, from the masthead, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of the peninsula. Thispoint of land, which is a low flat cape, formed a marked object in thegeography of the eastern coast of Asia, and by an accurate observationand several good angles, they determined its precise situation to bein latitude 51° 0', and longitude 156° 45'. At the same time they sawtoo the first of the Kurile islands, called Shoomsha, and on the nextday they saw the second, Paramousir; the latter is the largest of theKuriles subject to Russia; but the gale increasing from the west, theywere never able to approach it nearer than to observe its generalaspect, which was very high land, almost entirely covered with snow;and to ascertain its situation; which was found to be 10' westlongitude from Lopatka, and its latitude 50° 46' at the north, and 49°58' at the south end. On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily from the westward, they were obliged to stand to the southward, and were consequentlyhindered from seeing any more of the Kurile islands. In the situationthey then found themselves, they were almost surrounded by thesupposed discoveries of former navigators. To the southward andsouth-west were placed, in the French charts, a group of five islands, called the three Sisters, Zellany, and Zunasher. They were about tenleagues, according to the same maps, to the westward of the land of DeGama; and as the Company's Land, Staten Island, and the famous land ofJesso, were also supposed to lie nearly in the same direction, thiscourse was deemed to deserve the preference, and they hauled round tothe westward, the wind having shifted to the north. A succession ofgales, however, and now and then a storm, that reduced them to theircourses, drove them too much to the southward, prevented them fromfalling in even with the southernmost of the Kurile islands, andobliged them at last to give up all further thoughts of discovery tothe north of Japan. On the 22nd, the gale having abated, they let out the reefs of thetopsails and made more sail. At noon they were in latitude 40° 58', and longitude 148° 17', and two small land birds being taken on board, plainly indicated they could not be any great distance from the land;they therefore hauled up to the west-north-west, in which directionthe southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and said to be inhabited byhairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty leagues. They sawseveral other signs of land; but, on the 24th, the wind shifted to thenorth, and blew a fresh gale, so that they finally gave up all furthersearch for islands to the north of Japan, and shaped their coursewest-south-west, for the north part of that island. On the 26th, at daybreak, they descried high land to the westward, which proved to be Japan. The country consisted of a double range ofmountains; it abounded with wood, and had a pleasing variety of hillsand dales. They saw the smoke of several towns, and many houses nearthe shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations. They stood off andon, according as the weather permitted them, till the 28th in theafternoon, when they lost sight of the land, and from its breaking offso suddenly, they conjectured that what they had before seen was acluster of islands, lying off the main land of Japan. The next daythey saw land again, eleven leagues to the southward. The coastappeared straight and unbroken; towards the sea it was low, but rosegradually into hills of a moderate height, whose tops were tolerablyeven, and covered with wood. At nine o'clock, the wind shifting to the southward, they tacked andstood off to the east, and soon after they saw a vessel close in withthe land, standing along shore to the northward, and another in theoffing, coming down before the wind. Objects of any kind, belonging toa country so famous and yet so little known, excited a generalcuriosity, and every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, togaze at them. The vessel to windward passed ahead of them at thedistance of about half a mile. It would have been easy to have spokenwith her; but perceiving, by her manoeuvres, that she was muchfrightened, Captain Gore was not willing to augment her terrors, andthinking that they should have many better opportunities ofcommunicating with the Japanese, suffered her to go off withoutinterruption. There appeared to be about six men on board, and, according to the best conjectures that could be formed, the vessel wasabout forty tons burden. She had but one mast, on which was hoisted asquare sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which workedforward. Halfway down the sail came three pieces of black cloth, atequal distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each endthan in the midship, and from her appearance and form she did notappear to be able to sail otherwise than large. Soon after the wind increased so much, that our navigators werereduced to their courses; and the sea ran as high as any one on boardever remembered to have seen it. If the Japenese vessels are, asKaempfer describes them, open in the stern, it would not have beenpossible for those they saw to have survived the fury of the storm;but as the appearance of the weather, all the preceding part of theday, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops had, notwithstanding, stood far out to sea, it was concluded they were perfectly capable ofbearing a gale of wind. Our navigators were blown off the land by this gale, but on the 30ththey saw it again, at the distance of about fifteen leagues, appearingin detached parts, but it could not be determined whether they weresmall islands, or parts of Japan. On the 1st of November, they saw a number of Japanese vessels close inwith the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and othersstanding along shore. They discovered to the westward a remarkablyhigh mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. As this was themost remarkable hill on the coast, they wished to have settled itssituation exactly; but only having had a single view, they wereobliged to be contented with such accuracy as their circumstanceswould allow. Its latitude was reckoned to be 35° 20', and its longitude 140° 26'. As the Dutch charts made the coast of Japan extend about ten leaguesto the south-west of White Paint (supposed to be the southernmost landthen in sight) our navigators stood off to the eastward, to weatherthe point. At midnight they again tacked, expecting to fall in withthe land to the southward, but were surprised to find, in the morning, that during eight hours, in which they supposed they had made a courseof nine leagues to the south-west, they had in reality been carriedeight leagues in a direction diametrically opposite. Whence theycalculated that the current had set to the north-east by north, at therate of at least five miles an hour. On the 3rd of November, they were again blown off the land by a heavygale, and found themselves upwards of fifty leagues off, whichcircumstances, together with the extraordinary effect of the currentsthey had experienced, the late season of the year, the unsettled stateof the weather, and the little likelihood of any change for thebetter, made Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, andproceed in the voyage for China. On the 4th and 5th, our navigators, continuing their course to thesouth-east, passed great quantities of pumice-stone. These stonesappeared to have been thrown into the sea by eruptions of variousdates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quitebare. On the 13th, they had a most violent gale from the northward. In themorning of the 13th, the wind, shifting to the north-west, broughtwith it fair weather; but, though they were, at that time, nearly inthe situation given to the island of San Juan, they saw no appearanceof land. They continued to pass much pumice-stone; indeed theprodigious quantities of that substance which floated in the sea, between Japan and the Bashee Islands, seemed to indicate that somegreat volcanic convulsion must have happened in that part of thePacific Ocean. On the 14th, they discovered two islands, and on the next day a third;but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without somedanger, from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on hiscourse to the westward. The middle island is about five miles long;the south point is a high barren hill, presenting an evident volcaniccrater. The earth, rock, or sand, for it was not easy to distinguishof which its surface was composed, exhibited various colours, and aconsiderable part was conjectured to be sulphur, and some of theofficers on board the Resolution thought they saw steams rising fromthe top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain Gore gave itthe name of _Sulphur Island_. A long narrow neck of land connectsthe hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into acircumference of three or four leagues, and is of moderate height. Thenorth and south islands appeared to be single mountains of aconsiderable height. Sulphur Island is in the latitude 24° 48', longitude 141° 12'. The north island in latitude 25° 14', longitude141° 10', and the south island in latitude 24° 22', and longitude 141°20'. Hence our navigators proceeded for the Bashee Islands, hoping toprocure at them such a supply of refreshment as would help to shortentheir stay at Macao; but Captain Gore, being guided by the opinions ofCommodore and Captain Wallis, as to the situation of these islands, which differ materially from Dampier's, they were foiled in theirendeavours to find them, although, in the day time, the ships spreadtwo or three leagues from each other, and in the night, when under aneasy sail. On the 27th, being in longitude 118° 30', and having got to thewestward of the Bashees, according to Mr. Byron's account, ournavigators hauled their wind to the north west, hoping to weather thePrata shoals but at four in the morning of the 28th, the breakers wereclose under their lee; at daylight they saw the island of Prata, andfinding they could not weather the shoal, ran to leeward of it. Asthey passed the south side, they saw two remarkable patches on theedge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. On the south-west sideof the reef, and near the south end of the island, they thought theysaw openings in the reefs which promised safe anchorage. In the forenoon of the 29th, they passed several Chinese fishingboats; and the sea was covered with wrecks of boats that had beenlost, as they conjectured, in the late boisterous weather. They werein latitude 22° 1', having run 110 miles since the preceding noon. On the 30th, they ran along the Lema Islands, and got a Chinese piloton board. In obedience to the instruction given to Captain Cook by theAdmiralty, the captains now required of the officers and men of bothships to give up their journals, and what other papers they had totheir possession relative to the voyage, which was cheerfully compliedwith; and at nine o'clock in the evening of the following day, theyanchored three leagues from Macao. Here, upon sending on shore to negotiate for supplies of provisions, &c. They first received intelligence of the occurrences in Europe, during the protracted period of their absence. On the 4th of December, they stood into the Typa, and moored with the stream-anchor and cableto the westward. Captain King was sent up to Canton to expedite the supplies that werewanted, and experienced every possible assistance from thesupercargoes and gentlemen of the Company's factory there. Thepurchase of the provisions and store wanted was completed on the 26th, and the whole stock was sent down on the following day by a vesselwhich Captain Gore had engaged for the purpose. Twenty sea-otter skinswere sold at Canton, by Captain King, for eight hundred dollars. Atthe ships a brisk trade was carried on in the same article, by bothofficers and seamen. The sea-otter skins every day rose in value, anda few prime skins, which were clean and well preserved, were sold forone hundred and twenty dollars each. The whole amount of the value, inspecie and goods, that was got for the furs in both ships, did notfall short of two thousand pounds sterling, and it was generallysupposed, that at least two-thirds of the quantity originally obtainedfrom the Americans were spoiled or worn out, or had been given away orsold at Kamtschatka. In consequence hereof, the rage with which theseamen were possessed to return to Cook' River, and by another cargoof skins to make their fortunes, was, at one time, not far short ofmutiny. The numerous voyages that have since been undertaken for theprosecution of the trade here suggested, have rendered it familiar tothe merchants both of Britain and of America; and, though it has notlatterly been productive of advantages equal to those which wererealized by the first adventurers, is still a branch of commerce thatis successfully pursued. The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for theirsea-otter skins, produced a very whimsical change in the dress of thecrews. On their arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the raggedappearance both of the younger officers and seamen; almost the wholeof their original stock of European clothes having been long worn out, or patched up with skins, or the various manufactures they had metwith in the course of their discoveries. These were now again mixedand eked out with the gaudiest silks and cottons of China. On the 11th of January, two seamen belonging to the Resolution ran offwith a six oared cutter, and were never after heard of. It wassupposed that they had been seduced by the prevailing notion of makinga fortune by returning to the fur islands. On account of the war between England and America, with France andSpain as her allies, of which they received intelligence at Canton, they put themselves in the best posture of defence, the Resolutionmounting sixteen guns, and the Discovery ten. They had reason, however, to believe, from the generosity of their enemies, that theseprecautions were superfluous: being informed that instructions hadbeen found on board all the French ships of war captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of falling in with the ships thatsailed under the command of Captain Cook, to suffer them to proceedwithout molestation; and the same orders were also said to have beengiven by the American Congress to the vessels employed in theirservice. In return for these liberal concessions, Captain Goreresolved to refrain from availing himself of any opportunities ofcapture, and to preserve throughout the remainder of the voyage, thestrictest neutrality. On the 12th of January, 1780, our navigators got under sail fromMacao; on the 19th, they saw Pulo Sapata, and on the 20th, descriedPulo Condore, and anchored in the harbour at the south-west end of theisland. The town is situated at the east end, and here they procuredeight buffaloes, with other refreshments. From the untractableness andprodigious strength of the buffaloes, it was both a tedious anddifficult operation to get them on board. The method of conductingthem was by passing ropes through their nostrils and round theirhorns; but, having been once enraged at the sight of our men, theybecame so furious that they sometimes broke the trees to which theywere often under the necessity of being tied; sometimes they toreasunder the cartilage of the nostril through which the ropes ran, andgot loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of the men to recoverthem would have been ineffectual, without the assistance of some youngboys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whoselittle management their rage was soon appeased. A circumstancerespecting these animals, which was thought no less singular thantheir gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, affection for, littlechildren, was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, before they became the tamest of all creatures. Captain King kept twoof them, a male and a female, for a considerable time, which becamegreat favourites with the sailors; and thinking that a breed ofanimals of such strength and size, some of them weighing when dressed, seven hundred pounds, would be a valuable acquisition, intended tohave brought them with him to England, but his intention wasfrustrated by an incurable hurt which one of them received at sea. Our navigators remained here till the 28th of January, when theyunmoored and proceeded on their homeward voyage, passing through theStraits of Banea, and of Sunda, without any occurrence worthy ofparticular remark. They saw two or three Dutch ships in the Straits ofSunda. They watered at Prince's Island at the entrance of the Straits, and got a supply of fowls and turtle there. From the time of their entering the Straits of Banea, they began toexperience the powerful effects of the pestilential climate, andmalignant putrid fevers, with obstinate coughs and dysenteries, prevailed amongst the crews, happily, however, without one fataltermination. On the 18th of February they left the Straits of Sunda; in the nightbetween the 25th and 26th, they experienced a most violent storm, during which almost every sail they had bent was split to rags, andthe next day they were obliged to bend their last suit of sails, andto knot and splice the rigging, their cordage being all expended. On the 7th of April they saw the land of Africa, and on the 9th, theyfell in with an English East India packet, that had left Table Baythree days before. On the evening of the 12th, they dropped anchor inFalse Bay, and the next morning stood into Simon's Bay. Having completed their victualling, and furnished themselves with thenecessary supply of naval stores, our navigators sailed out of the bayon the 9th of May. On the 12th of June, they passed the equator forthe fourth time during the voyage. On the 12th of August they made thewestern coast of Ireland, and, after a fruitless attempt to put intoPort Galway, they were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer tothe northward; and, on the 26th of August, both ships came to ananchor in Stromness, in the Orkneys, whence Captain King wasdispatched by Captain Gore, to acquaint the board of Admiralty withtheir arrival. On the first of October, the ships arrived safe at theNore, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. THE MORAI. AN ODE. BY MISS HELEN MARIA WILLIAMS. Fair Otaheite, fondly bless'd By him, who long was doom'd to brave The fury of the polar wave, That fiercely mounts the frozen rock Where the harsh sea bird rears her nest, And learns the raging surge to mock-- There, Night, that loves eternal storm. Deep and lengthen'd darkness throws, And untried Danger's doubtful form Its half seen horror shews! While Nature, with a look so wild, Leans on the cliffs in chaos piled; That here, the awed, astonish'd mind Forgets, in that o'erwhelming hour, When her rude hands the storms unbind, In all the madness of her power; That she who spreads the savage gloom, That _she_ can dress in melting grace, In sportive Summer's lavish bloom, The awful terrors of her face; And wear the sweet perennial smile That charms in Otaheite's isle. Yet, amid her fragrant bowers. Where Spring, whose dewy fingers strew O'er other lands some fleeting flowers, Lives, in blossoms ever new; Whence arose that shriek of pain? Whence the tear that flows in vain?-- Death! thy unrelenting hand Tears some transient human band-- Eternity! rich plant that blows Beneath a brighter, happier sky. Time is a fading branch, that grows On thy pure stem, and blooms to die. What art thou, Death?--terrific shade. In unpierced gloom array'd! Oft will daring Fancy stray Far in the central wastes, where Night Divides no cheering hour with Day, And unnamed horrors meet her sight; There thy form she dimly sees, And round the shape unfinish'd throws All her frantic vision shews When numbing fears her spirit freeze-- But can mortal voice declare If Fancy paints thee as thou art? Thy aspect may a terror wear Her pencil never shall impart; The eye that once on thee shall gaze, No more its stiffen'd orb can raise; The lips that could thy power reveal, Shall lasting silence instant seal-- In vain the icy hand we fold, In vain the breast with tears we steep, The heart, that shared each pang, is cold, The vacant eye no more can weep. Yet from the shore where Ganges rolls His wave beneath the torrid ray, To Earth's chill verge, where o'er the poles Fall the last beams of lingering day. For ever sacred are the dead? Sweet Fancy comes in Sorrow's aid, And bids the mourner lightly tread Where the insensate clay is laid: Bids partial gloom the sod invest By the mouldering relics press'd; Then lavish strews, with sad delight, What'er her consecrating power Reveres of herb, or fruit, or flower, And fondly weaves the various rite. See! o'er Otaheite's plain Moves the long, funereal train; Slow the pallid corse they bear, Oft they breathe the solemn prayer: Where the ocean bathes the land, Thrice, and thrice, with pious hand, The priest, when high the billow springs, From the wave unsullied, flings Waters pure, that, sprinkled near, Sanctify the hallow'd bier: But never may one drop profane The relics with forbidden stain! Now around the funeral shrine, Led in mystic mazes, twine Garlands, where the plantain weaves With the palm's luxuriant leaves; And o'er each sacred knot is spread The plant devoted to the dead. Five pale moons with trembling light Shall gaze upon the lengthen'd rite; Shall see distracted Beauty tear The tresses of her flowing hair: Those shining locks, no longer dear, She wildly scatters o'er the bier; And careless gives the frequent wound That bathes in precious blood the ground. When along the western sky, Day's reflected colours die, And Twilight rules the doubtful hour Ere slow-paced Night resumes her power; Mark the cloud that lingers still Darkly on the hanging hill! There the disembodied mind Hears, upon the hollow wind, In unequal cadence thrown, Sorrow's oft repeated moan:-- Still some human passions sway The spirit late immersed in clay; Still the faithful sigh is dear, Still beloved the fruitless tear! Five waning moons, with wandering light, Have pass'd the shadowy bound of night, And mingled their departing ray With the soft fires of early day: Let the last sad rite be paid Grateful to the conscious shade: Let the priest, with pious care. Now the wasted relics bear Where the Morai's awful gloom Shrouds the venerable tomb; Let the plantain lift its head, Cherish'd emblem of the dead; Slow and solemn, o'er the grave, Let the twisted plumage wave, Symbol hallow'd, and divine, Of the god who guards the shrine. Hark!--that shriek of strange despair Never shall disturb the air. Never, never shall it rise But for Nature's broken ties!-- Bright crescent! that with lucid smiles Gild'st the Morai's lofty pile, Whose broad lines of shadow throw A gloomy horror far below; Witness, O recording Moon! All the rites are duly done; Be the faithful tribute o'er, The hovering spirit asks no more! Mortals, cease the pile to tread, Leave, to silence, leave the dead. But where may she who loves to stray Mid shadows of funereal gloom, And courts the sadness of the tomb, Where may she seek the proud Morai, Whose dear memorial points the place Where fell the friend of human race? Ye lonely isles! on ocean's bound Ye bloom'd through time's long flight unknown, Till Cook the untract'd billow pass'd, Till he along the surges cast Philanthropy's connecting zone, And spread her lovliest blessings round. Not like that murderous band he came, Who stain'd with blood the new found West Nor as, with unrelenting breast, From Britain's free enlighten'd land, Her sons now seek Angola's strand, Each tie most sacred to unbind, To load with chains a brother's frame, And plunge a dagger in the mind; Mock the sharp anguish bleeding there Of Nature in her last despair! Great Cook! Ambition's lofty flame, So oft directed to destroy, Led _thee_ to circle with thy name, The smile of Love, and Hope, and Joy! Those fires, that lend the dangerous blaze The devious comet trails afar, Might form the pure benignant rays That gild the morning's gentle star-- Sure, where the Hero's ashes rest, The nations late emerg'd from night Still base--with love's unwearied care That spot in lavish flowers is dress'd, And fancy's dear inventive rite Still paid with fond observance there! Ah no!--around his fatal grave, No lavish flowers were ever strew'd No votive gifts were ever laid-- His blood a savage shore bedew'd! His mangled limbs, one hasty prayer, One pious tear by friendship, paid, Were cast upon the raging wave; Deep in the wild abyss he lies. Far from the cherish'd scene of home; Far, far from Her whose faithful sighs A husband's trackless course pursue; Whose tender fancy loves to roam With _him_ o'er lands and oceans new; And gilds with Hope's deluding form The gloomy pathway of the storm. Yet, Cook! immortal wreaths are thine! While Albion's grateful toil shall raise The marble tomb, the trophied bust, For ages faithful to its trust; While, eager to record thy praise, She bids the Muse of History twine The chaplet of undying fame, And tell each polish'd land thy worth: The ruder natives of the earth Shall oft repeat thy honour'd name; While infants catch the frequent sound, And learn to lisp the oral tale; Whose fond remembrance shall prevail Till Time has reach'd his destin'd bound. THE END.