MYSTERIES

OF

BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED:

BEING A COMPLETE

ANALYSIS OF THE WHOLE SUBJECT;

CONSISTING OF

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF BEES, DIRECTIONS FOR OBTAINING THE GREATESTAMOUNT OF PURE SURPLUS HONEY WITH THE LEAST POSSIBLEEXPENSE, REMEDIES FOR LOSSES GIVEN, AND THE SCIENCE OF"LUCK" FULLY ILLUSTRATED--THE RESULT OF MORETHAN TWENTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE INEXTENSIVE APIARIES. 

BY M. QUINBY, PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPER. 

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER152 FULTON STREET. 1853. 

Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1853, byM. QUINBY, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United Statesfor the Southern District of New York. 

E. O. JENKINS, PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER, 114 NASSAU STREET, N. YORK. 

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

BRIEF HISTORY. 

Three kinds of Bees, 9Queen described, 9Description and Duty of Workers, 10Description of Drones, 11Most Brood in Spring, 11Their Industry, 12

CHAPTER II. 

HIVES. 

Hives to be thoroughly made, 13Different opinions about them, 14The Author has no Patent to recommend, 14Speculators supported long enough, 15Prefix of Patent a bad recommendation, 15Ignorance of affairs and committees, 15Opposition to simplicity, 16By gaining one point produce another evil, 16First Delusion, 17Chamber Hive, 17Mrs. Griffith's Hive, 18Weeks' Improvement, 18Inclined Bottom-Boards do not throw out all the worms, 19Objections to suspended hives, 19See bees often, 20Hall's Patent, 21Jones's Patent, 21An Experiment, 21Reason of failure in dividing hive, 22Cause of starving in such hives, 23Advantages of the changeable hive considered, 24Variation of these hives, 25Expense in constructing changeable hives, 25The surplus honey will contain bee-bread, 26Description of Cutting's changeable hive, 26First objection cost of construction, 28Hives can be made with less expense, 29Old breeding cells will last a long time, 29Cells larger than necessary at first, 30Expense of renewing combs, 30Best to use old combs as long as they will last, 31Method for Pruning when necessary, 31Tools for Pruning, 32Use of Tobacco Smoke, 33Further objections to a sectional hive, 34Non-Swarmers, 35Contrast of profit, 35Principle of swarming not understood, 36Not to be depended upon, 37Hives not always full before swarming, 37Size of hives needed, 37An Experiment, 37Bees do not increase if full after the first year in same hive, 38Gillmore's system doubted, 39Utility of moth-proof hives doubted, 39Instincts of the bee always the same, 40Profit the object, 41Common hive recommended, 42Size Important, 42Small hives most liable to accidents, 42Apt to deceive, 43Unprofitable if too large, 43Correct size between two extremes, 43Size for warm latitudes, 44Larger hives more safe for long Winters or backward Spring, 442, 000 inches safe for this section, 45Kind of Wood, width of Board, &c. , 46Shape of little consequence, 46Directions for making hives, 47Size of cap and boxes, 48Miner's Hive, 48Directions for making holes, 49A Suggestion, 50Glass boxes preferred, 51Glass boxes--how made, 51Guide-combs necessary, 52Wood Boxes, 53Cover for Hives, 54Jars and Tumblers--how prepared, 54Perfect Observatory Hive described, 55One like Common Hive preferred, 56What may be seen, 56Directions for making Glass Hive, 57Plate for Hive, 61

CHAPTER III. 

BREEDING. 

Imperfectly Understood, 62Good stocks seldom without brood, 63How small stocks commence, 64Different with larger ones, 65How Pollen is stored in the breeding season, 65Operation of Laying, and the Eggs described, 66Time from the Egg to the perfect Bee, 67Rough treatment of the young Bee, 67Guess-work, 68Terms applied to young Bees, 69Discrepancy in time in rearing brood as given by Huber, 70The number of Eggs deposited by the Queen guessed at, 71A test for the presence of a Queen, 73When Drones are reared, 74When Queens, 74Liability of being destroyed, 76Drones destroyed when honey is scarce, 77Old Queen leaves with the first swarm, 78A young Queen takes the place of her mother in the old stock, 79Other Theories, 80Subject not understood, 80Necessity for further observation, 84Two sides of the question, 85

CHAPTER IV. 

BEE PASTURAGE. 

Substitute for Pollen, 88Manner of packing it, 89Alder yields the first, 89Fruit Flowers important in good weather, 91Red Raspberry a favorite, 91Catnip, Mother-wort and Hoarhound, are sought after, 92Singular fatality attendant on Silkweed, 93Large yield from Basswood, 96Garden Flowers unimportant, 97Honey-dew, 97Singular Secretion, 98Secretions of the Aphis, 98Advantages of Buckwheat, 101Amount of honey collected from it, 101Do Bees injure the crop? 102Are not Bees an advantage to vegetation? 103A test for the presence of Queen doubted, 106An extra quantity of Pollen not always detrimental, 107What combs are generally free from Bee-bread, 108Manner of packing stores, 108Philosophy in filling a cell with honey, 109Long cells sometimes turned upward, 110Is a dry or wet season best for honey? 111How many Stocks should be kept, 112Three principal sources of honey, 112

CHAPTER V. 

WAX. 

Is Pollen converted into Wax? 115How is it obtained? 115Huber's account of a commencement of comb, 117Best time to witness comb-making, 118Manner of working Wax, 119Are crooked Combs a disadvantage? 120Uncertainty in weight of Bees, 122Some wax wasted, 124Water necessary in Comb-making, 124Remarks, 126

CHAPTER VI. 

PROPOLIS. 

What used for, 128Is it an elaborate or natural substance? 129Huber's Opinion, 129Further Proof, 129Remarks, 132

CHAPTER VII. 

THE APIARY. 

Its location, 132Decide Early, 133Bees mark their location on leaving the hive, 134Changing stand attended with loss, 134Can be taken some distance, 135Danger of setting Stocks too close, 135Space between Hives, 136Small Matters, 136Economy, 137Cheap arrangement of stands, 138Canal Bottom-board discarded, 139Some advantage in being near the earth, 139Utility of Bee-Houses doubted, 141

CHAPTER VIII. 

ROBBERIES. 

Not properly understood, 142Improper Remedies, 143Difficulty in deciding, 144Weak families in most danger, 144Their Battles, 145Bad policy to raise in Hives, 146Indications of Robbers, 146A Duty, 147A Test, 147Robbing usually commences on a warm day, 148Remedies, 149Common Opinion, 149A case in point, 149Further Directions, 150Common cause of commencing, 151Spring the worst time, 152No necessity to have Bees plundered in the fall, 153

CHAPTER IX. 

FEEDING BEES. 

Should be a last resort, 154Care needed, 154Apparent contradiction when feeding causes starvation, 155How long it will do to wait before feeding, 156Directions for feeding, 157Whole Families may desert the Hive, 158Objections to general feeding, 159Arrangement for feeding, 159Feeding to induce early swarms, 161What may be fed, 162Is candied honey injurious? 162

CHAPTER X. 

DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 

Some in the best Stocks, 164How Found, 165A tool for their destruction, 165Mistaken Conclusions, 167Objections to suspended Bottom-board, 167Advantage of the Hive close to the board, 168Objection Answered, 169Insufficiency of inclined Bottom-board 169A Moth can go where Bees can, 170Trap to catch Worms, 170Box for Wren, 171

CHAPTER XI. 

PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 

Advantage of the Patent Vender, 172Time of putting on--Rule, 172Making holes after the Hive is full, 174Advantage of proper arrangement, 174Directions for boring holes in full Stock, 176To be taken off when filled, 177Time taken to fill a box, 178When to take off boxes part full, 178Tobacco Smoke preferred to Slides, 178Manner of disposing of the Bees in the boxes, 179Bees disposed to carry away honey, 179Not disposed to sting, 180Rule, 181

CHAPTER XII. 

SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 

Two things to be prevented, 181Apt to be deceived about the Worms, 182Their progress described, 182A Solution offered, 183Method of killing Worms in boxes, 185Freezing destroys them, 186Objection to using Boxes before the Hive is full, 187

CHAPTER XIII. 

SWARMING. 

Time to expect them, 187All Bee-Keepers should understand it as it is, 188Means of understanding it, 188Inverting a stock rather formidable at first, 189Requisites before preparation of Queen's cells, 189State of Queen-cell when used, 190State when swarms issue, 190Clustering outside not always to be depended upon, 191Examinations--the result, 191Remarks, 192Conflicting Theories, 192Both Old and Young leave with swarms, 192Cause of the Queen's inability to fly suggested, 193Evidence of the Old Queen's leaving, 193Mr. Weeks's Theory not satisfactory, 194Particular directions for testing the matter, 196Empty Hives to be ready, 197Bottom-boards for hiving, 197Description of swarm issuing, 198Manner of hiving can be varied, 199Usual Methods, 199When out of reach, 200When they cannot be shaken off, 202All should be made to enter, 203Should be taken to the stand immediately, 203Protection from the Sun necessary, 203Clustering Bushes, 204How swarms are generally managed that leave for the woods, 205Nothing but Bees needed in a Hive, 206Seldom go off without clustering, 207Do swarms choose a location before swarming? 207Means of arresting a swarm, 208Some Compulsion, 208How far will they go in search of honey? 209Two or more swarms liable to unite, 211Disadvantage, 211Can often be prevented, 212Indications of swarming inside the Hive, 212Preventing a swarm issuing for a time, 213To prevent swarms uniting with those already hived, 213When two have united--the method of separating, 214No danger of a sting by the Queen, 215Some precautions in hiving two swarms together, 216How to find Queen when two strangers are together, 217Boxes for double swarms immediately, 218Returning a part to the old stock, 218Method of uniting, 219When care is necessary, 219Swarm-Catcher, 220Swarms sometimes return, 222Repetition prevented, 222Liability to enter wrong stocks, 223First issues generally choose fair weather, 224After Swarms, 225Their Size, 225Time after the first, 225Piping of the Queen, 225May always be heard before and after swarm, 226Time of continuance varies, 226Time between second and third issues, 227Not always to be depended upon, 227A Rule for the time of these issues, 228When it is useless to expect more swarms, 229Plurality of Queens destroyed, 229The Manner, 230Theory doubted, 231After-swarms different in appearance from the first, when about to issue, 232Time of day, weather, &c. , 233Swarms necessary to be seen, 233Returning after-swarms to the old stock, 235When they should be returned, 235Method of doing it, 235More care needed by After-swarms when hived, 237Two may be united, 237

CHAPTER XIV. 

LOSS OF QUEENS. 

Of swarms that lose their Queen, 238A suggestion and an answer, 239A disputed question, 240A multitude of Drones needed, 241The Queen liable to be lost in her excursions, 243The time when it occurs, 243Indications of the loss, 244The Result, 245Age of Bees indicated, 246Necessity of care, 246Remedy, 247Mark the date of swarms on the Hive, 248Obtaining a Queen from worker brood, 249They are poor dependence, 249

CHAPTER XV. 

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 

Principles should be understood, 252Some Experiments, 253The result unsatisfactory, 253Further Experiments, 254A successful method, 256Advantages of this method, 257Artificial swarms only safe near the swarming season, 259Sometimes hazardous, 259Some Objections, 259Natural and artificial swarms equally prosperous, 260This matter too often delayed, 261Is the age of the Queen important? 261

CHAPTER XVI. 

PRUNING. 

Different opinions as to time, 262Another time preferred, 263Should not be delayed, 263Objection to Pruning, 264Stocks pruned now are better for winter, 265

CHAPTER XVII. 

DISEASED BROOD. 

Not generally understood, 266My own experience, 267Description of Disease, 267The cause uncertain, 268Remedial Experiments, 268Public inquiry and answers, 268Answers not satisfactory, 270A cause suggested, 270Reasons for the opinion, 272Cause of its spreading, 273Not easily detected at first, 274Symptoms to be observed, 274Scalding the honey to destroy the poison for feeding, 275When to examine stocks that have swarmed, 275Care in selecting stock-hives for winter, 276Accusations not always right, 276

CHAPTER XVIII. 

IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 

Their means of defence, 277Time of greatest Irritability, 278Proper Conduct, 278How to proceed when attacked, 279A person's breath offensive, and other causes, 279Their manner of attack, 279Smoker described, 280Effect of Tobacco Smoke, 281Sting described, 282Does its loss prove fatal? 283Means of protection, 284Remedies for stings, 285

CHAPTER XIX. 

ENEMIES OF BEES. 

Are they all guilty? 286Rats and Mice, 287Are all the Birds guilty? 288King-bird--one word in his favor, 288Cat-bird acquitted, 289Toad got clear, 290Wasps and Hornets not favored, 290Ants--a word in their favor, 291Spider condemned, 292Wax-Moth unrivalled for mischief, 293Indications of their presence, 296Management, 296Care in turning over Hives, 297Other symptoms of Worms, 298When they grow larger than usual, 299Time of Growth, 299Time of Transformation, 300Freezing destroys Worms, Cocoon, and Moth, 300How they pass the Winter, 301Stocks more liable to be destroyed last of Summer, 301When Bees are safe, 302Means to destroy them, 302Making them drunk and their execution by Chickens, 303

CHAPTER XX. 

MELTING DOWN OF COMBS. 

The Cause, 304Effects, 304First Indications, 305Prevention, 305

CHAPTER XXI. 

FALL MANAGEMENT. 

First care, 307Strong Stocks disposed to plunder, 307Bees Changeable, 308Requisites for good Stocks, 308Great disadvantage of killing the Bees, 309Section of country may make a difference in what poor stocks need, 309When Bees are needed, 310Caution, 311Principal Difficulty, 311How Avoided, 311Advantages of making one good stock from two poor ones, 312Two families together will not consume as much as if separate, 312An Experiment, 312Season for operating, 313The Fumigator, 314Directions for uniting two families, 315Uniting with Tobacco Smoke, 317Condition of Stocks in 1851, 318How they were managed, 318Cause of their superior Thrift, 319Swarms partly filled pay better than to cut out the honey, 320Advantages in transferring, 320Another method of uniting two families, 321Uniting Comb and Honey as well as Bees, 322When feeding should be done for Stock Hives, 323

CHAPTER XXII. 

WINTERING BEES. 

Different methods have been adopted, 325The idea of Bees not freezing has led to errors in practice, 326Appearance of Bees in cold weather, 326How part of the swarm is frozen, 327How a small family may all freeze, 327Frost and Ice sometimes smother Bees, 328Frost and Ice in a Hive accounted for, 329The effect of Ice or Frost on Bees and Comb, 330Frost may cause starvation, 330Other Difficulties, 330Further Illustrations, 332Accumulation of Fæces described by some writers as a disease, 336The Author's remedy, 337Buying Bees, 337Experiments of the Author to get rid of the Frost, 338Success in this matter, 338Bees when in the house should be kept perfectly dark, 339A room made for wintering Bees, 339Manner of stowing away Hives, 340Temperature of room, 341Too much Honey may sometimes be stored, 342Management of room towards Spring, 342Time for setting out Bees, 343Not too many stocks taken out at once, 343Families may be equalized, 344Snow need not always prevent carrying out Bees, 344Does not Analogy prove that Bees should be kept warm in Winter? 345The next best place for wintering Bees, 346Evils of wintering in the open air considered, 347But little risk with good stocks, 348Effect of keeping second-rate stocks out of the sun, 348Effects of Snow considered, 349Stocks to be protected on some occasions, 350Do the Bees eat more when allowed to come out occasionally in Winter? 352

CHAPTER XXIII. 

SAGACITY OF BEES. 

Are not Bees directed alone by instinct? 353What they do with Propolis, 353Mending broken Combs, 354Making passages to every part of their Combs, 355

CHAPTER XXIV. 

STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. 

Methods of removing Combs from the Hive, 357Different modes of straining Honey, 358Getting out Wax--different methods, 360

CHAPTER XXV. 

PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 

Why the word luck is applied to Bees, 362Rule in taking Bees for a share, 364A man may sell his "luck, " 364First-rate stocks recommended to begin with, 365Old stocks are good as any if healthy, 365Caution respecting diseased brood, 366Result of ignorance in purchasing, 366Size of Hives important, 367How large Hives can be made smaller, 368Moderate weather best to remove Bees, 369Preparations for transporting Bees, 370Securing Bees in the Hive, 370Best Conveyance, 370Hive to be inverted, 371Conclusion, 372

PREFACE. 

Before the reader decides that an apology is necessary for theintroduction of another work on bees into the presence of those alreadybefore the public, it is hoped that he will have the patience toexamine the contents of this. 

The writer of the following pages commenced beekeeping in 1828, withoutany knowledge of the business to assist him, save a few directionsabout hiving, smoking them with sulphur, &c. Nearly all the informationto be had was so mingled with erroneous whims and notions, that itrequired a long experience to separate essential and consistent points. It was _impossible_ to procure a work that gave the informationnecessary for practice. From that time to the present, no sufficientguide for the inexperienced has appeared. European works, republishedhere, are of but little value. Weeks, Townley, Miner, and others, writers of this country, within a few years, have given us treatises, valuable to some extent, but have entirely neglected several chapters, very important and essential to the beginner. Keeping bees _has_ been, and is now, by the majority, deemed a hazardous enterprise. The ravagesof the moth had been so great, and loss so frequent, that but littleattention was given to the subject for a long time. Mr. Weeks lost hisentire stock three times in fifteen years. But soon after the discoverywas promulgated, that honey could be taken from a stock withoutdestroying the bees, an additional attention was manifest, increasingto a rage in many places. It seems to be easily understood, that_profit_ must attend success, in this branch of the farmer's stock;inasmuch as the "bees work for nothing and find themselves. " Thisinterest in bees should be encouraged to continue till enough are keptto collect all the honey now wasted; which, compared with the presentcollections, would be more than a thousand pounds to one. But tosucceed, that is the difficulty. Some eighteen years since, after apropitious season, an aged and esteemed friend said to me, "It is notto be expected that you will have such luck always; you must expectthey will run out after a time. I have always noticed, when people havefirst-rate luck for a time, that the bees generally take a turn, andare gone in a few years. "

I am not sure but, to the above remarks, may be traced the cause of mysubsequent success. It stimulated me to observation and inquiry. I soonfound that good seasons were the "lucky" ones, and that many lost in anadverse season, all they had before gained. Also, that strong familieswere the only ones on which I could depend for protection against themoth. This induced the effort to ascertain causes tending to diminishthe size of families, and the application of remedies. Whether successhas attended my efforts or not, the reader can judge, after a perusalof the work. 

It is time that the word "_luck_, " as applied to beekeeping, wasdiscarded. The prevailing opinion, that bees will prosper for oneperson more than another, under the same circumstances, is fallacious. As well might it be applied to the mechanic and farmer. The careless, ignorant farmer, might occasionally succeed in raising a crop with apoor fence; but would be liable, at any time, to lose it by trespassingcattle. He might have suitable soil in the beginning, but withoutknowledge, for the proper application of manures, it might fail toproduce; unless a _chance_ application _happened_ to be right. 

But with the _intelligent_ farmer the case is different: fences inorder, manures judiciously applied, and with propitious seasons, hemakes a sure thing of it. Call him "_lucky_" if you please; it is hisknowledge, and care, that render him so. So with bee-keeping, thecareful man is the "lucky" one. There can be no effect without apreceding cause. If you lose a stock of bees, there is a cause orcauses producing it, just as certain as the failure of a crop with theunthrifty farmer, can be traced to a poor fence, or unfruitful soil. You may rest assured, that a rail is off your fence of managementsomewhere, or the proper applications have not been made. In relationto bees, these things may not be quite so apparent, yet neverthelesstrue. Why is there so much more uncertainty in apiarian science thanother farming operations? It must be attributed to the fact, that amongthe thousands who are engaged in, and have studied agriculture, perhapsnot more than one has given his energies to the nature and habits ofbees. If knowledge is elicited in the same ratio, we ought to have athousand times more light on one subject than the other, and stillthere are some things, even in agriculture, that may yet be learned. 

It is supposed, by many, that we already have all the knowledge thatthe subject of _bees_ affords. This is not surprising; a person thatwas never furnished with a full treatise, might arrive at suchconclusions. Unless his own experience goes deeper, he can have nomeans of judging what is yet behind. 

In conversation relative to this work, with a person of considerablescientific attainments, he remarked, "You do not want to give thenatural history of bees at all; that is already sufficientlyunderstood. " And how is it understood; as Huber gives it, or inaccordance with some of our own writers? If we take Huber as a guide, we find many points recently contradicted. If we compare authors of ourday, we find them contradicting each other. One recommends a peculiarlyconstructed hive, as just the thing adapted to their nature andinstincts. If a single point is in accordance with their nature, helabors to twist all the others to his purpose, although it may involvea fundamental principle impossible to reconcile. Some one else succeedsin another point, and proceeds to recommend something altogetherdifferent. False and contradictory assertions are made either throughignorance, or interest. Interest may blind the judgment, and spurioushistory may deceive. 

It is folly to expect success in bee-keeping for any length of time, without a correct knowledge of their nature and instincts; and this weshall never obtain by the course hitherto pursued. As much of theirlabor is performed in the dark, and difficult to be observed, it hasgiven rise to conjecture and false reasoning, leading to falseconclusions. 

When _I_ say a thing _is so_, or say it is _not so_, what evidence hasthe reader that it is proved or demonstrated? _My_ mere assertions arenot expected to be taken in preference to another's; of such proof, wehave more than enough. Most people have not the time, patience, orability, to set down quietly with close observation, and investigatethe subject thoroughly. Hence it has been found easier to receive errorfor truth, than to make the exertion necessary to confute it; the moreso, because there is no guide to direct the investigation. I shall, therefore, pursue a different course; and for every _assertion_endeavor to give a test, that the reader may apply and satisfy himself, and trust to no one. As for theories, I shall try to keep them separatefrom facts, and offer such evidence as I have, either for or againstthem. If the reader has further proof that presents the matter inanother light, of course he will exercise the right to a difference ofopinion. 

I could give a set of rules for practice, and be very brief, but thiswould be unsatisfactory. When we are told a thing _must be done_, mostof us, like the "inquisitive Yankee, " have a desire to know _why_ it isnecessary; and then like to know _how_ to do it. This gives usconfidence that we are right. Hence, I shall endeavor to give thepractical part, in as close connection with the natural history, thatdictates it, as possible. 

This work will contain several chapters entirely new to the public: theresult of my own experience, that will be of the utmost value to allwho desire to realize the greatest possible advantages from their bees. 

The additions to chapters already partially discussed by others, willcontain much original matter not to be found elsewhere. When manystocks are kept, the chapter on "Loss of Queens, " alone, will, withattention, save to any one, not in the secret, enough in one season tobe worth more in value than many times the cost of this work. The samemight be said of those on diseased brood, artificial swarms, winteringbees, and many others. 

If such a work could have been placed in my hands twenty years ago, Ishould have realized hundreds of dollars by the information. Butinstead of this, my course has been, first to suffer a loss, and thenfind out the remedy, or preventive; from which the reader may beexempt, as I can confidently recommend these directions. 

Another new feature will be found in the duties of each season beingkept by itself, commencing with the spring and ending with the wintermanagement. 

In my anxiety to be understood by all classes of readers, I am awarethat I have made the elegant construction and arrangement of sentencesof secondary importance; therefore justly liable to criticism. But tothe reader, whose object is information on this subject, it can be ofbut little consequence. 

CHAPTER I. 

A BRIEF HISTORY. 

THREE KINDS OF BEES. 

Every prosperous swarm, or family of bees, must contain one queen, several thousand workers, and, part of the year, a few hundred drones. 

[Illustration: QUEEN. ] [Illustration: WORKER. ] [Illustration: DRONE. ]

QUEEN DESCRIBED. 

The queen is the mother of the entire family; her duty appears to beonly to deposit eggs in the cells. Her abdomen has its full size veryabruptly where it joins the trunk or body, and then gradually tapers toa point. She is longer than either the drones or workers, but her size, in other respects, is a medium between the two. In shape she resemblesthe worker more than the drone; and, like the worker, has a sting, butwill not use it for anything below royalty. She is nearly destitute ofdown, or hairs; a very little may be seen about her head and trunk. This gives her a dark, shining appearance, on the upper side--some arenearly black. Her legs are somewhat longer than those of a worker; thetwo posterior ones, and the under surface, are often of a bright coppercolor. In some of them a yellow stripe nearly encircles the abdomen atthe joints, and meets on the back. Her wings are about the same as theworkers, but as her abdomen is much longer, they only reach abouttwo-thirds the length of it. For the first few days after leaving thecell, her size is much less than after she has assumed her maternalduties. She seldom, perhaps never, leaves the hive, except when leadinga swarm, and when but a few days old, to meet the drones, in the air, for the purpose of fecundation. The manner of the queen's impregnationis yet a disputed point, and probably never witnessed by any one. Themajority of close observers, I believe, are of opinion that the dronesare the males, and that sexual connection takes place in the air, [1]performing their amours while on the wing, like the humble-bee and someother insects. It appears that one impregnation is operative during herlife, as old queens are not afterwards seen coming out for that purpose. 

 [1] The objectors to this hypothesis will be generally found among those who are unable to give a more plausible elucidation. Those who oppose the fact that one bee is the mother of the whole family, will probably be in the same class. 

DESCRIPTION AND DUTY OF WORKERS. 

As all labor devolves on the workers, they are provided with a sack, orbag, for honey. Basket-like cavities are on their legs, where they packthe pollen of flowers into little pellets, convenient to bring home. They are also provided with a sting, and a virulent poison, althoughthey will not use it abroad when unmolested, but, if attacked, willgenerally defend themselves sufficient to escape. They range the fieldsfor honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct combs, prepare food, nursethe young, bring water for the use of the community, obtain propolis toseal up all crevices about the hive, stand guard, and keep outintruders, robbers, &c. , &c. 

DESCRIPTION OF DRONES. 

When the family is large and honey abundant, a brood of drones isreared; the number, probably, depends on the yield of honey, and sizeof the swarm, more than anything else. As honey becomes scarce, theyare destroyed. Their bodies are large and rather clumsy, covered withshort hairs or bristles. Their abdomen terminates very abruptly, without the symmetry of the queen or worker. Their buzzing, when on thewing, is louder, and altogether different from the others. They seem tobe of the least value of any in the hive. Perhaps not more than one ina thousand is ever called upon to perform the duty for which they weredesigned. Yet they assist, on some occasions, to keep up the animalheat necessary in the old hive after a swarm has left. 

MOST BROOD IN SPRING. 

In spring and first of summer, when nearly all the combs are empty, andfood abundant, they rear brood more extensively than at any otherperiod, (towards fall more combs are filled with honey, giving lessroom for brood. ) The hive soon becomes crowded with bees, and royalcells are constructed, in which the queen deposits her eggs. When someof these young queens are advanced sufficiently to be sealed over, theold one, and the greater part of her subjects, leave for a newlocation, (termed swarming. ) They soon collect in a cluster, and, ifput into an empty hive, commence anew their labors; constructing combs, rearing brood, and storing honey, to be abandoned on the succeedingyear for another tenement. One in a hundred may do it the same season, if the hive is filled and crowded again in time to warrant it. Onlylarge early swarms do this. 

THEIR INDUSTRY. 

Industry belongs to their nature. When the flowers yield honey, and theweather is fine, they need no impulse from man to perform their part. When their tenement is supplied with all things necessary to reachanother spring, or their store-house full, and no necessity or room foran addition, and we supply them with more space, they assiduously toilto fill it up. Rather than to waste time in idleness, during abounteous yield of honey, they have been known to deposit their surplusin combs outside the hive, or under the stand. This natural industrioushabit lies at the foundation of all the advantages in bee-keeping;consequently our hives must be constructed with this end in view; andat the same time not interfere with other points of their nature; butthis subject will be discussed in the next chapter. Those peculiartraits in their nature, mentioned in this, will be more fully discussedin different parts of this work, as they appear to be called for, andwhere proof will be offered to sustain the positions here assumed, which as yet are nothing more than mere assertions. 

CHAPTER II. 

HIVES. 

HIVES TO BE THOROUGHLY MADE. 

Hives should be constructed of good materials, boards of goodthickness, free from flaws and cracks, well fitted and thoroughlynailed. 

The time of making them is not very particular, providing it is done inseason. It certainly should not be put off till the swarming period, tobe made as wanted, because if they are to be painted; it should be doneas long as possible before, as the rank smell of oil and paint, justapplied, might be offensive to the bees. 

But what kind of hive shall be made?

In answer, some less than a thousand forms have been given. Theadvantages of bee-keeping depend as much upon the construction ofhives, as any one thing; yet there is no subject pertaining to them onwhich there is such a variety of opinions, and I have but little hopesof reconciling all these conflicting views, opinions, prejudices, andinterests. 

DIFFERENT OPINIONS ABOUT THEM. 

One is in favor of the old box, and the cruel practice of killing thebees to obtain the honey, as the only means to obtain "luck;" "they aresure to run out if they meddle with them. " Another will rush to theopposite extreme, and advocate all the extravagant fancies of theitinerant patent-vender, as the _ne plus ultra_ of all hives, whenperhaps it would be worth more for fire-wood than the apiary. 

THE AUTHOR HAS NO PATENT TO RECOMMEND. 

To remove from the mind of the reader all apprehension that I am aboutcondemning one patent to recommend another, I would say in thebeginning, that I have _no patent to praise, no interest in deceiving_, and I hope no prejudices to influence me, in advocating or condemning_any_ system. I wish to make bee-keeping plain, simple, economical, andprofitable; so that when we sum up the profit "it shall not be found inthe other pocket. "

It is a principle recognized by our statute, that no person is suitableas a Juror, who is biased either by interest or prejudice. Now whetherI am the impartial Jurist, is not for me to say: but I wish to discussthe subject fairly. I hope some few will be enabled to see their owninterest: at any rate, dismiss prejudice, as far as possible, while weexamine wherein _one class_ in community is unprofitable tobee-keepers. 

SPECULATORS SUPPORTED LONG ENOUGH. 

We have faithfully supported a host of speculators on our business fora long time; often not caring one straw about our success, afterpocketing the fee of successful "humbuggery. " One is no sooner gone, than we are beset by another, with something altogether different, andof course the acme of perfection. 

PREFIX OF PATENT A BAD RECOMMENDATION. 

This has been done until the very prefix of patent, or premium, attached to a hive, renders it almost certain that there must besomething deleterious to the apiarian; either in expense ofconstruction or intricate and perplexing in management, requiring anengineer to manage, and a skilful architect to construct. 

What does the American savage, who without difficulty can track thepanther or wolf, know of the principles of chemistry? What does theChemist know of following a track in the forest, when nothing butwithered leaves can guide him? Each understands principles, the_minutiæ_ of which the other never dreamed. 

IGNORANCE OF OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES. 

Thus it appears to be with granting patents and premiums, if we takewhat has been patented and praised by our committees and officers asimprovements in bee-culture. These men may be capable, intelligent, andwell fitted for their sphere, but in bee matters, about as capable ofjudging, as the Hottentot would be of the merits of an intricatesteam-engine. Knowledge and experience are the only qualificationscompetent to decide. 

OPPOSITION TO SIMPLICITY. 

I am aware that among the thousands whose direct interest is opposed tomy simple, plain manner of getting along, many will be ready to contendwith me for every departure from their patent, improved or premiumhives, as the case may be. 

BY GAINING ONE POINT, PRODUCE ANOTHER EVIL. 

I think it will be an easy matter to show that every departure fromsimplicity to gain _one_ point, is attended in another by acorrespondent evil, that often exceeds the advantage gained. That wehave made vast improvements in art and science, and in every departmentof human affairs, no one will deny; consequently, it is assumed we mustcorrespondingly improve in a bee-hive; forgetting that nature has fixedlimits to the instinct of the bee, beyond which she will not go!

It will be necessary to point out the advantages and objections tothese pretended improvements, and then we will see if we cannot avoidthe objections, _and retain the advantages, without the expense_, by asimple addition to the common hive; because if we expect to encouragebee-keeping, they must have better success than a neighbor of mine, whoexpended fifty dollars for bees and a patent, and lost all in threeyears! Most bee-keepers are farmers; very few are engineers sufficientto work them successfully. I would say to all such as do not understandthe nature of bees, adhere to simplicity until you do, and then I amquite sure you will have no desire for a change. 

FIRST DELUSION. 

Probably the first delusion in the patent line originated with theidea, that to obtain surplus honey, it was absolutely necessary to havea chamber hive. To get rid of the depredations of mice, the suspendedhive was contrived. The inclined bottom-board was then added to throwout the worms. To prevent the combs from sliding down, the lower endwas contracted. 

The principle of bees rearing queens from worker-eggs when destitute, gave rise to the dividing hive in several forms. Comb, when usedseveral years, becomes thickened and black, and needs changing; hencethe changeable hives, Non-swarmers have been introduced to save riskand trouble. Moth-proof hives to prevent the ravages of worms, &c. , &c. 

CHAMBER HIVE. 

The chamber hive is made with two apartments; the lower and largest isfor the permanent residence of the bees, the upper or chamber for theboxes. Its merits are these: the chamber affords all the protectionnecessary for glass boxes; considered as a cover, it is never lost. Itsdemerits are inconvenience in handling; it occupies more room if put inthe house in the winter; if glass boxes are used, only one end can beseen, and this may be full when the other may hold some pounds yet, andwe cannot possibly know until it is taken out. I know we are told toreturn such boxes when not full "and the bees will soon finish them, "but this will depend on the yield of honey at the time; if abundant, itwill be filled; if not, they will be very likely to take a hint, andremove below what there is in the box; whereas if the chamber wasseparate from the hive, and was not a chamber but a loose cap to coverthe boxes, it could be raised at any time without disturbing a singlebee, and the precise time of the boxes being filled ascertained, (thatis, when they are of glass. )

MRS. GRIFFITH'S HIVE. 

Mrs. Griffith, of New Jersey, is said to have invented the suspendedchamber hive with the inclined bottom-board. One would suppose this wassufficiently inconvenient to use, and difficult and expensive toconstruct. 

WEEKS' IMPROVEMENT. 

Yet Mr. Weeks makes an alteration, calls it an improvement, the expenseis but a trifle more; it is sufficient to be sanctioned by a patent. From front to rear, the bottom is about three inches narrower than thetop, somewhat wedge-shape; it has the merit to prevent the combs fromslipping down, when they _happen_ to be made, to have the edgessupported. The objections are, that filth from the bees will not fallas readily to the bottom as if every side was perpendicular, and theextra trouble in constructing. 

INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARDS DO NOT THROW OUT ALL THE WORMS. 

Inclined bottom-boards form the basis of one or two patents, said to begood to roll out the worms. I can imagine a pea rolling off such aboard; but a worm is not often found in a rolling condition. Most of usknow, that when a worm drops from the combs, it is like the spider, with a thread attached above. The only way that I can imagine one to bethrown out by these boards, is to have it dead when it strikes it, orso cold that it cannot spin a thread, and wind to shake the board, tillit rolls off. The objections to these boards are coupled with thesuspended hive, with which they are usually connected. 

OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED HIVES. 

All suspended hives _must be objectionable_ to any one who wishes toknow the _true_ condition of his bees at all times. Only think of thetrouble of unhooking the bottom-board, and getting down on your back, or twisting your neck till your head is dizzy, to look up among thecombs, and then see nothing satisfactory for want of light; or to liftthe hive from its supporters, and turn it over. The operation is tooformidable for an indolent man, or one that has much other business. The examination would very probably be put off till quite sure it woulddo no longer, and sometimes a few days after that, when you will veryoften find your bees past remedy. 

SEE BEES OFTEN. 

"_See your bees often_, " is a choice recipe, --it is worth five hundreddollars at interest, even when you have but few stocks. How necessarythen that we have every facility for a close and minute inspection. Howmuch easier to turn up a hive that simply rests on a stand. Sometimesit is necessary to turn the hive, even bottom up, and let the rays ofthe sun directly among the combs, to see _all_ the particulars. By thisclose inspection, I have often ascertained the cause of somedifficulty, and provided a remedy, thus saving a good many that in ashort time would have been lost; yet, with a little help, were asvaluable as any by another year. 

HALL'S PATENT. 

Mr. Hall has added a lower section to his hive, about four inches deep, with two boards inside, like the roof of a house, to discharge theworms, &c. ; but as these boards would interfere with close inspection, they are objectionable. Several other variations of inclinedbottom-boards and suspended hives have been contrived, to obtain apatent, but the objections offered will apply to most of them. I shallnot weary the reader by noticing in detail _every_ hive that has beenpatented; I think if I notice the _principles of each kind_, it willtest his patience sufficiently. 

JONES' PATENT. 

Jones' dividing hive was probably suggested by this instinctiveprinciple of the bee, viz. : when a stock by any accident loses itsqueen, and the combs contain eggs or very young larvæ, they will rearanother. Now if a hive is constructed so as to divide the brood-combs, it would seem quite certain that the half without a queen, would raiseone; and we could multiply our stocks without swarms, the trouble ofhiving, and risk of their going to the woods, &c. 

AN EXPERIMENT. 

Several years ago, I thought I had obtained a principle that wouldrevolutionize the whole system of bee management. In 1840 I constructedsuch hives, and put in the bees to test by actual experiment, theutility of what seemed so very plausible in theory. It would appearthat this principle suggested the same idea to Mr. Jones; perhaps withthis difference: I think he did not wait to test the plan thoroughly, before obtaining his patent in '42. One vender of rights asserted that63 stocks were made from one in three years; but somehow a great manythat obtained the rights, failed in their expectations. From myexperiments, I think I could guess at some of the reasons. 

Mr. A. --"Well, what are the reasons? give us your experience, if youplease, I am interested; I had the right for such a hive, and had a lotmade to order, that cost more money in the end than I shall ever payagain for anything about bees. "

Do not be too hasty, friend, I think I can instruct you to keep bees onprinciples in accordance with their nature, which is very simple, sothat if you can be induced to try again, we will have the _hives_ costbut little, at any rate. 

REASONS OF FAILURE IN DIVIDING HIVES. 

The greatest difficulty with dividing hives, appeared to be here. Itmust be constructed with a partition or division to keep the combs ineach apartment separate; otherwise, we make tearing work in thedivision. When bees are first put into such hives, unless the swarm isvery large, and honey abundant, one apartment will be filled to thebottom before a commencement is made in the other. 

Mr. A. --"What difference can that make? It is necessary to have thehive full; if it cannot be all filled at once, why let them fill part. "

The difference is this. The first combs built by a swarm are for brood, and store-combs afterwards, as needed; one apartment will be nearlyfilled with all brood-combs, and the other with store-combs and honey. Now in the two kinds of cells there is a great difference; those forbreeding are near half an inch in length, while those for storing aresometimes two inches or more; totally unfit for breeding; until thebees cut them off to the proper length, which they will not do, unlesscompelled for want of room, consequently this side of store-combs isbut little used for brood. When such hive is divided, the chances arenot more than one in four, that this apartment will have any young beesof the proper age from which to raise a queen; if not, and the oldqueen is in the part with the brood-comb, where she will be ninety-ninetimes in a hundred, one half of the hive is lost for want of a queen. 

Mr. A. --"Ah! I think I now understand how I lost one-half of nearlyevery hive I divided. I also lost some of them in the winter; there wasplenty of bees as well as honey; can you tell the cause of this?"

I will guess that they starved. 

Mr. A. --"Starved! why, I said there was plenty of honey. "

I understood it, but nevertheless feel quite sure. 

Mr. A. --"I would like to see that made plain; I can't understand howthey could starve when there was honey!"

CAUSE OF STARVING IN SUCH HIVES. 

I said one apartment would be filled with brood-combs; this will beoccupied, at least partially, with brood as long as the yield of honeylasts; consequently, there will be but little room for storing here, but the other side may be full throughout. The bees will take up theirwinter quarters among the brood-combs. Now suppose the honey in thisapartment is all exhausted during a severe turn of cold weather, whatcan the bees do? If one should leave the mass and go among the frostycombs for a supply, its fate would be as certain as starvation. Withoutfrequent intervals of warm weather to melt all frost on the combs, andallow the bees to go into the other apartment for honey, they _must_starve. 

The cost of construction is another objection to this hive, as thelabor bestowed on one is more than would finish two, that would be muchbetter. 

ADVANTAGES OF THE CHANGEABLE HIVE CONSIDERED. 

The value of changeable hives is based upon the followingprinciple:--Each young bee when it first hatches from the egg, isneither more nor less than a worm; when it receives the necessary food, the bees seal it over; it will then spin a cocoon, or line its cellwith a coating of silk, less in thickness than the thinnest paper: thisremains after the bee leaves it. It is evident, therefore, that after afew hundreds have been reared in a cell, and each one has left itscocoon, that such cell must be somewhat diminished, although thethickness of a dozen cocoons could not be measured; and this old cellneeds removing, that the bees may replace it with a new one. But howshall it be done? This is a feat for the display of ingenuity. A commonman might go about it in a very sensible, simple manner, might possiblyturn the hive over, and cut out the old combs when necessary, withoutknowing perhaps that the patent-vender could _sell_ a receipt to do thething _scientifically_, the benefit of which would be many times on theprinciple of a surgeon cutting off your head, to get a good chance totie a small artery according to system; or would show you a roundaboutway of half a dozen miles to accomplish what the same number of rodswould do. Had we not ocular demonstration of the fact, we could notsuppose so many variations for the same end could be invented. But ifwe reward ingenuity, it will be stimulated to great exertions. Perhapsif we describe the merits of one or two of this class, the utility ofthis principle may be comprehended. 

VARIATION OF THESE HIVES. 

First, then, the sectional hive of various patterns has been patented;it consists generally of about three boxes, one above another; the topof each has one large hole, or several small ones, or cross-bars, aboutan inch wide, and half an inch apart; these holes or spaces allowingthe bees to pass from one box to the other. When all are full, theupper one is removed, and an empty one put under the bottom; in thisway all are changed, and the combs renewed in three years; very easilyand quietly done. This is as far as a patent-vender wishes the subjectinvestigated; and some of his customers have not gone beyond thispoint. As an offset for these advantages, we will first look at thecost of such hive. 

EXPENSE IN CONSTRUCTING CHANGEABLE HIVES. 

It is as much work to construct each separate section, as a commonhive; consequently, it is three times the expense to begin with. It isobjectionable for wintering bees, on the same principle as the dividinghive. I object to it on another point: our surplus honey will never bepure, as each section must be used for breeding, and every cell soused, will contain cocoons corresponding to the number of bees raised. 

SURPLUS HONEY WILL CONTAIN BEE-BREAD. 

Also pollen, or bee-bread, is always stored in the vicinity of theyoung brood; some of this will remain mixed with the honey, to pleasethe palate with its _exquisite flavor_. The majority will probablyprefer all surplus honey stored in pure comb, where it will be withproper management. 

I will here give a full description of a hive on this principle, as Ihave the description from one of its advocates, in the DollarNewspaper, Philadelphia: called Cutting's Patent Changeable Hive. 

DESCRIPTION OF CUTTING'S CHANGEABLE HIVE. 

"The size of the changeable hive most used in this section, has anoutside shell, made of inch boards, about two feet high and sixteen anda half inches square, with a door hung in the rear. On the inside arethree boxes or drawers, which will hold about one thousand cubic incheseach, and when filled with honey, usually weigh about thirty-fivepounds, which is a sufficient amount of honey to winter a large swarm. The sides of these drawers are made of boards, about half an inchthick; the tops and bottoms of the lower drawers and ends of the upperdrawers should be three-fourths of an inch, and the drawers should befourteen inches high, fourteen inches from front to rear, and six andthree-fourths inches wide. Two of these drawers stand side by side, with the third placed flatwise upon the two, with a free communicationfrom one drawer to another, by means of thirty three-fourth inch holeson the side of each drawer, and twenty-four in the bottom of the upperdrawer, and holes in the top and bottom of the lower drawers, tocorrespond, and slides to cut off the communication when occasion mayrequire. Thus we see our hive may be one hive, with communicationsufficiently free throughout, or we may have three hives combined. Thedrawers have tubes made in them, (for the bees to pass and repass), which are made to go through the front side of the hive. The back-sideof the drawers are doors, with glass set in them. These drawers set upfrom the bottom of the hive, and rest on pieces of wood, closely fittedin such a way, as to make a space under the drawers for the _dirt_, _dead bees_, and _water_, which collect in the bottom of hives inwinter; between the drawers and the outside is an air space of aboutone-third of an inch. 

These hives, when well made and painted, will last many years, andthose doing much in the business will find it an advantage to have afew extra drawers. Having given you some idea of the construction ofthe changeable hive, I will proceed to notice some of the mostimportant reasons why I prefer this hive to any I have yet seen. Firstbecause the hive, being constructed upon the changeable principle, sothat by taking out a full drawer, and placing an empty one in itsstead, our comb is always kept new, wherefore, the size of the bee ispreserved, and kept in a more healthy, or prosperous state, orcondition, than when obliged to remain and continue to breed, in theold comb, when the cells have become small. Secondly, because small, late swarms may be easily united. Thirdly, because large swarms may beeasily divided. Fourthly, because however late a swarm may come off, itmay be easily supplied with honey for the winter, by taking from a fullhive a surplus drawer, and placing it in the hive of the late swarm. Fifthly, because a column of air between the drawers and the outside ofthe hive is a non-conductor of both heat and cold, preventing themelting of the comb, and securing the bees against frost and cold. "

Now here is a full description of perhaps as good a hive as any of itsclass; it is given for the benefit of those who wish to go milesinstead of rods; they may know the road, especially as they can havethe privilege by paying for it: for myself, I had rather beexcused, --why, reading the description has nearly exhausted mypatience; what should I do if I attempted to make one?

FIRST OBJECTION, COST OF CONSTRUCTION. 

The first obstacle in the way (after the right is obtained) is theconstruction. Let's see; we want inch boards to make the shell, three-quarter inch boards for the tops and bottoms of drawers, halfinch for sides, hinges to hang a door, glass for back of drawers, tubesfor the egress of the bees, and slides to cut off communication. Itwill be necessary to get a mechanic, and a workman too. Those 108 holesthat must be bored, _must match_, or it is of no use to make them. Butfew farmers would have the tools requisite, a still less number theskill and patience to do it. What the cost might be by the time a hivewas ready to receive the bees, I could not say; but guess it might besome three or four dollars. 

HIVES CAN BE MADE WITH LESS EXPENSE. 

The one I shall recommend, without paint, will not cost, or need not, over 37-1/2 cents, with cover, etc. Now, if we wish hives for ornament, it is well enough to expend something for the purpose; but it is wellnot to refine too much, as there are limits which, if passed, willrender it unfit for bees. Therefore, when profit is an object, theextra expense will or ought to be made up by the bees, in return for anexpensive domicil. But will they do it? The merits of the one underconsideration are fully given. "First, by taking out a full drawer andputting in an empty one in its stead, the combs are always kept new, and cells of full size. " Now this fear of bees becoming dwarfs inconsequence of being reared in cells too small, has done more mischiefamong the bees, and their owners' pockets, than if the fact had neverbeen thought, or heard of. 

OLD BREEDING CELLS WILL LAST A LONG TIME. 

These old cells do not need renewing half as often as has beenrepresented. It is the interest of these patent-venders to sell rights;this interest either blinds their eyes as to facts, or lulls theinternal monitor of right, while acquisitiveness is gratified. The samecells can be used for breeding six or eight years, perhaps longer, andno one can tell the difference by the size of the bees; I have twostocks now in their tenth year without renewal of comb. A neighbor ofmine kept a stock twelve years in the same combs; it proved asprosperous as any. I have heard of their lasting twenty, and aminclined to believe it. 

CELLS LARGER THAN NECESSARY AT FIRST. 

The bees seem to make a provision for this emergency, the sheets ofcomb are farther apart than actually necessary at first, the diameterof the cell is also a little larger than the size of the young beerequires. _Of this we are certain_--great many young bees _can_ beraised in a cell, and not be diminished in size, sufficient to bedetected. The bottom fills up faster than at the sides, and as they doso, the bees add a little to the length, until the ends of these cellson two parallel combs approximate too close to allow the bees to passfreely; before which time it is unnecessary to remove comb for beingold. 

EXPENSE OF RENEWING COMBS. 

One important item should be considered in this matter, by those whoare so eager for new combs. It is doubtful whether one in 500 everthought of the expense of renewing comb. I find it estimated by onewriter, [2] that twenty-five lbs. Of honey was consumed in elaboratingabout half lb. Wax. This without doubt is an over estimate, but no onewill deny that some is used. 

 [2] See Appendix of Cottage Bee-keeper, page 118. 

BEST TO USE OLD COMBS AS LONG AS THEY WILL ANSWER. 

I am satisfied of this much, from actual experience, that every timethe bees have to renew their brood-combs in a hive, they would makefrom ten to twenty-five lbs. In boxes, hence I infer that their timecan be more profitably employed than in constructing brood-combs _everyyear_. I would also suggest that when combs have been once used forbreeding it is the best use they can be applied to, after that, as thecocoons render it unfit for much else than a little wax. 

METHOD FOR PRUNING WHEN NECESSARY. 

But when the combs do actually need removing, I prefer the followingmethod of pruning, to driving the bees out entirely, as has beenrecommended. It can be done in about an hour. As we are comparing themerits of different methods of getting rid of old combs, I shall givemine here, notwithstanding it may seem a little out of place. 

The best time is a little before night. The first movement is to blowunder the hive some tobacco smoke (the best means of charming them Iever found); the bees, deprived of all disposition to sting, retreat upamong the combs to get away from the smoke; now raise the hive from thestand and carefully turn it bottom upwards, avoiding any jar, as someof the bees that were in the top when the smoke was introduced, and didnot get a taste, will now come to the bottom to ascertain the cause ofthe disturbance; these should receive a share, and they willimmediately return to the top, perfectly satisfied. When so many beesare in the hive, as to be in the way in pruning, (which if there is notit is not worth it, ) get an empty hive the size of the old one, and setit over, stopping the holes; now strike the lower hive with a hammer orstick, lightly and rapidly, five or ten minutes, when nearly all thebees will be in the upper hive, and set that on the stand. There beingnow nothing in the way, except a few scattering bees, that I will_warrant not to sting, unless you pinch or get them fast_. 

[Illustration: TOOLS FOR CUTTING OUT COMB. ]

The broad one is very readily made from a piece of an old scythe, about18 inches long, by any blacksmith, by simply taking off the back, andforming a shank for a handle at the heel. The end should be ground allon one side, and square across like a carpenter's chisel. This is forcutting down the sides of the hive; the level will keep it close thewhole length, when you wish to remove all the combs; it being squareinstead of pointed or rounded, no difficulty will be found in guidingit, --it being very thin; no combs are mashed by crowding. 

The other tool is for cutting off combs at the top or any other place. It is merely a rod of steel three-eighths of an inch diameter, abouttwo feet long, with a thin blade at right angles, one and a half incheslong, and a quarter inch wide, both edges sharp, upper side bevelled, bottom flat, &c. You will find these tools very convenient; be sure andget them by all means, the cost cannot be compared to the advantages. 

Now with the tools just described, proceed to remove the brood-combsfrom the centre of the hive. The combs near the top and outside areused but little for breeding, and are generally filled with honey;these should be left as a good start for refilling, but take out allthat is necessary, while you are about it; then reverse the hives, putting the one containing the bees under the other; by the nextmorning all are up; now put it on the stand, and this job is donewithout one cent extra expense for a patent to help you, and the beesare much better off for the honey left, which has to be taken away withall patent plans that I have seen, and this, as has been remarked, isnot worth much, occupied as it is with a few cocoons and bee-bread. Itis worth much more to the bees, and they will give us pure comb andhoney for it. 

USE OF TOBACCO SMOKE. 

"I would not do it for fifty dollars, the bees would sting me todeath. " Stop a moment, if you never tried the efficacy of tobaccosmoke, you know nothing of a powerful agent; this is the grand secretof success; without it, I admit it would be somewhat hazardous; butwith it, I have done it time after time without receiving a singlesting, and no protection whatever, for either hands or face. 

But is there no difficulty with our sectional or changeable hive, whenthis feat is to be performed? The combs will be made in the two drawerssimilar to the dividing hive, brood-combs in one side, and store-combsin the other. We wish to remove the one with brood-combs of course, (asthat is the one where the combs are thick and bad, &c. ) Where will thequeen be? With the brood-comb, where her duty is most likely to be;well, this is the one we want, and we take it out. How is she to getback? She must go back, or we have three chances in four of losing thestock; but her majesty will remain perfectly easy, as well as some ofthe workers, wherever you put the drawer. 

FURTHER OBJECTIONS TO A SECTIONAL HIVE. 

I can see no other way but to break the box, look her up, and help thehelpless thing home, (the chances of being stung may be here too. ) Now, for a time at least, they must use the other drawer for breeding, wheremost of the cells are unfit. There is altogether too great a proportionof drone-cells; these, as well as the other size, will nearly all bemuch too long, and will have to be cut off to the proper length, awaste of wax as well as labor. Another thing might be set down perdisadvantage of Mr. Cutting's hive; the job of getting a swarm intosuch hive, at first, I fancy would not be desirable to many. Now, whenwe strike the balance, putting expense, difficulties, and perplexitieson one side, and simplicity and economy on the other, it appears like a"great cry for little wool. " But stop a moment, four other advantagesare enumerated in its favor: second, third, and fourth are borrowedfrom the common hive, or are all available here when required. Butfifthly, allows a "column of air between the drawers and outside of thehive, is a non-conductor of heat and cold, " &c. This is an advantagenot possessed by the common hive; neither does the common hive offersuch advantages to the moth, by affording such snug quarters for wormsto spin their cocoons, when they cannot be destroyed withoutconsiderable trouble. 

NON-SWARMERS. 

Here I will endeavor to be brief; I feel anxious to get through withthis disagreeable part, where every word I say will clash withsomebody's interest or prejudice. The merits of this hive are to obtainsurplus honey with but little trouble, which often succeeds insatisfying people of its utility. The principal objection is found onthe score of profit. Suppose we start with one, call it worth fivedollars in the beginning, at the end of ten years it is worth no more, very likely not as much, (the chances of its failing, short of thattime, we will not take into the account;) we might get annually, sayfive dollars worth of surplus honey, amounting to fifty dollars. 

CONTRAST OF PROFIT. 

The swarming hive, we suppose, will throw off one swarm annually, andmake us one dollar's worth of surplus honey, (we will not reckon thatyielded by the first swarm, which is often more than that from the oldstocks, ) about one third of the average in good seasons. The secondyear there will be two to do the same; take this rate for ten years, wehave 512 stocks, either of them worth as much as the non-swarmer, andabout a thousand dollars worth of surplus honey. Call these stocksworth five dollars each, which makes $2, 560, all added together willmake the snug little sum of about $3, 500, against $55. It is not to beexpected that any of us will realize profits to this extent, but it isa forcible illustration of the advantages of the swarming hive over thenon-swarmer. 

PRINCIPLE OF SWARMING NOT UNDERSTOOD. 

But many of these non-swarmers, 'tis said, can be changed to swarmersto suit the convenience of the apiarian--Colton's is one. It isasserted that it can be made to swarm within two days at any time, merely by taking off the six boxes or drawers that are very ingeniouslyattached; as this contracts the room, the bees are forced out. Now Iwill candidly confess that I could never get this thing to work at all. Of this I am quite positive, that he (Mr. Colton) is either ignorant ofthe necessary and regular preparations that bees make before swarming, or supposes others are. Mr. Weeks has advocated the same principle: hesays, "There is no queen in any stage of existence, in the old stock, immediately after the first swarm leaves it. " I have examined thismatter till I am satisfied I risk but little in the bold assertion, that not one stock in fifty will cast a swarm short of a week aftercommencing preparations. This opinion will be adopted by whoever willtake the trouble to investigate for themselves. (The chapter onswarming will give the necessary instructions for examining this point, if you wish. )

NOT TO BE DEPENDED UPON. 

Further, these non-swarmers are not always to be depended upon as such. They will sometimes throw off swarms when there is abundant room in thehive as well as in the boxes. 

HIVES NOT ALWAYS FULL BEFORE SWARMING. 

I know Weeks, Colton, Miner and others, tell us the hive _must be full_before we need expect a swarm; but experience is against them. Bees dosometimes cast a swarm before filling the hive. From close observation, I find when a hive is very large, say 4, 000 cubic inches, and is filledwith comb, the first season, that such seldom swarm except in very goodyears. 

SIZE OF HIVES NEEDED. 

But if such hive is only half full, or 2, 000 inches, it is very commonfor them to swarm without adding any new comb; proving veryconclusively that a hive that size, is sufficient for all their wantsin the breeding season. When about 1, 200 inches only had been filledthe first year, I have known them to add combs until they had filledabout 1, 800, and then cast a swarm, proving also that a little lessthan 2, 000 will do for breeding. I have tested the principle of givingroom to prevent swarming, a little further. 

AN EXPERIMENT. 

In the spring of '47, I placed under five full hives, containing 2, 000solid or cubic inches, as many empty ones, the same size, without thetop. I had a swarm from each; but two had added any new comb, and thesebut little. If these hives had been filled to the bottom with comb inthe spring, it is very doubtful whether either of them would haveswarmed. The only place we can put a good stock and not expect it toswarm in good seasons, is inside a building, where it is perfectlydark, and even here a few have been known to do it. If we could manageto get _a very large hive_ filled with combs, it would perhaps be asgood a preventive as any. All the bees that could be reared in oneseason, would have sufficient room in the combs ready made for theirlabors, and there would be no necessity for their emigration. "But whatbecomes of all the bees raised in the course of several years?" To thisquestion I shall not probably be able to give a satisfactory answer atpresent. 

BEES DO NOT INCREASE, IF FULL, AFTER THE FIRST YEAR, IN SAME HIVE. 

I only will notice the fact, that the bees somehow disappear, and thereis no more at the end of five years than at the end of one. A stock ofbees may contain 6, 000 the first of May, and raise 20, 000 in the courseof the year; by the first of the next May, as a general thing, not onemore will be found, even when no swarm had issued. 

GILLMORE'S SYSTEM DOUBTED. 

Now this fact is not known by a recent patentee from the State ofMaine, (else he supposes others do not, ) as he recommends placing beesin a house, and empty hives in connection with the one containing bees, and in a few years all will be full. He has discovered a mixture tofeed bees, (to be noticed hereafter); this may account for an unusualquantity being stored by an ordinary sized family. He said anotherthing, that is, each of these added hives would contain a queen! Thiswould seem to explain away the first difficulty of the continuedincrease of bees, and so it would if it did not get into anotherequally erroneous; one error never made another true. This idea of beesraising a queen, merely because they have a side box to the main hive, is contrary to all my experience, and to the experience of all writers(except himself) that I have consulted. If the principle is correct, why not sometimes raise a queen in a box on the top or side for us? Inever discovered a single instance, where two perfect queens werequietly about their duties in connection with one hive. The deadlyhostility of queens is known to all observing apiarians. Not having theleast faith in the principle, I will leave it. 

UTILITY OF MOTH-PROOF HIVES DOUBTED. 

As for moth-proof hives, I have but little to say, as I have not theleast faith in one of them. When I come to speak of that insect, I willshow, I think, conclusively, that no place where bees are allowed toenter is safe from them. 

Several other _perfect hives_ might be mentioned; yet I believe that Ihave noticed the principles of each. Have I not said enough? Such asare not satisfied now would not be if I filled a volume. Our view ofthings is the result of a thousand various causes; the most powerful isinterest, or prejudice. 

It is said that in Europe, the same ingenuity is displayed in twistingand torturing the bee, to adapt her natural instinct to unnaturaltenements; tenements invented not because the bee needs them, butbecause this is a means available for a little change. "Patent men"have found the people generally too ignorant of apiarian science. Butlet us hope that their days of prosperity in this line are aboutnumbered. 

INSTINCTS OF THE BEE ALWAYS THE SAME. 

Let us fully understand that the nature of the bee, when viewed underany condition, climate, or circumstance, is the same. Instincts firstimplanted by the hand of the Creator, have passed through millions ofgenerations, unimpaired, to the present day, and will continueunchanged through all future time, till the last bee passes from theearth. We may, we have, to gratify acquisitiveness, forced them tolabor under every disadvantage; yes, we have compelled them tosacrifice their industry, prosperity, and even their lives have beenyielded, but never their instincts. We may destroy life, but cannotimprove or take from their nature. The laws that govern them are fixedand immutable as the Universe. 

Spring returns to its annual task; dissolves the frost, warms into lifenature's dormant powers. Flowers with a smile of joy, expand theirdelicate petals in grateful thanks, while the stamens sustain upontheir tapering points the anthers covered with the fertilizing pollen, and the pistil springs from a cup of liquid nectar, imparting to eachpassing breeze delicious fragrance, inviting the bee as with a thousandtongues to the sumptuous banquet. She does not need an artificialstimulus from man, as an inducement to partake of the feast; withouthis aid or assistance she visits each wasting cup of sweetness, andsecures the tiny drop, while the superabundant farina, dislodged fromthe nodding anthers, covers her body, to be brushed together andkneaded into bread. All she requires at the hands of man, is a suitablestorehouse for her treasures. In good seasons, her nature Will promptthe gathering for her own use an over supply. This surplus man mayappropriate to his own use, without detriment to his bees, providinghis management is in accordance with their nature. 

PROFIT THE OBJECT. 

To give the bees all necessary advantages, and obtain the greatestpossible amount of profit, with the least possible expense, has been mystudy for years. I might keep a few stocks for amusement, even if itwas attended with no dollar and cent profit, but the number would be_very small_; I will honestly confess then, that _profit_ is theactuating principle with me. I have a strong suspicion that themajority of readers have similar motives. I am sure, then, that all ofus with these views, will consider it a pity, when a stock producesfive dollars worth of surplus honey, to be obliged to pay three or fourof it for patent and other useless fixings. 

COMMON HIVE RECOMMENDED. 

I would not exchange the hive I have used for the last ten years forany patent I ever saw, if furnished gratis. I will guarantee that itaffords means to obtain surplus honey, as much in quantity and in anyway which fancy may dictate, whether in wood or glass, and what is morethan all, it shall cost nothing for the privilege of using. 

SIZE IMPORTANT. 

After deciding what kind of hive we want, the next important point isthe size. Dr. Bevan, an English author, recommends a size "eleven andthree-eighths inches square, by nine deep in the clear, " making onlyabout 1, 200 inches, and so few pounds necessary to winter the bees, that when I read it, I found myself wondering if the English inch andpound were the same as ours. 

SMALL HIVES MORE LIABLE TO ACCIDENTS. 

At all events, I think it too small for our Yankee bees in any place. We must remember, that the queen needs room for all her eggs, and thebees need space to store their winter provisions; for reasons beforegiven, this should be in one apartment. When this is too small, theconsequences will be, their winter supply of food is liable to run out. The swarms from such will be smaller and the stock much more liable toaccidents, which soon finish them off. 

APT TO DECEIVE. 

Yet I can imagine how one can be deceived by such a small hive, andrecommend it strongly; especially if patented. Suppose you locate alarge swarm in a hive near the size of Dr. Bevan's; the bees wouldoccupy nearly all the room with brood-combs; now if you put on boxes, and as soon as filled put on empty ones, the amount of surplus honeywould be great; very satisfactory for the first summer, but in a yearor two your little hive is gone. This result will be in proportion aswe enlarge our hives, until we arrive at the opposite extreme. 

UNPROFITABLE IF TOO LARGE. 

If too large, more honey will be stored than is required for theirwinter use. It is evident a portion might have been taken, if it hadbeen stored in boxes. The swarms will not be proportionably large whenthey do issue, which is seldom--but there is this advantage, they lasta long time, and are but little profit in surplus honey, or swarms. 

CORRECT SIZE BETWEEN TWO EXTREMES. 

Between the two extremes, like most other cases, is found the correctplace. A hive twelve inches square, each way, inside, has beenrecommended as the correct size. Here are 1, 728 cubic inches. This, Ithink, is sufficient for many places, as the queen probably has all theroom necessary for depositing her eggs; and as the swarms are morenumerous, and nearly as large as from hives much larger; also, there isroom for honey sufficient to carry the bees through the winter, atleast, in many sections south of 40 degrees latitude, where the winteris somewhat short. 

SIZE FOR WARM LATITUDES. 

This size will also do in this latitude (42 degrees, ) in some seasons, but not at all in others. [3] Not one swarm in fifty will consumetwenty-five lbs. Of honey through the winter, that is, from the last of_September_ to the first of April, (six months). The average loss inthat time is about eighteen lbs. ; but the critical time is later; aboutthe last of May, or first of June, in many places. 

 [3] When Mr. Miner wrote his manual recommending this size, 1, 728 inches, for all situations, it should be remembered he lived on Long Island. Since removing to Oneida County in this State, either his own experience or _some other cause_ has changed his views, as he now recommends my size, viz. , 2, 000 inches. 

LARGER HIVE MORE SAFE FOR LONG WINTERS OR BACKWARD SPRING. 

About the first of April they commence collecting pollen and rearingtheir young; by the middle of May all good stocks will occupy nearly, if not quite all, their brood-combs for that purpose, but _little honeyis obtained_ before fruit blossoms appear; when these are gone, no moreof any amount is obtained until clover appears, which is some ten dayslater. (I am speaking now particularly of this section; I am aware itis very different in other places, where different flowers exist. ) Nowif this season of fruit flowers should be accompanied by high winds, orcold rainy weather, but little honey is obtained; and our bees have anumerous brood on hand that _must be fed_. In this emergency, if nohoney is on hand of the previous year, a famine ensues; they destroytheir drones, perhaps some of their brood, and for aught I know put theold bees on short allowance. This I do know, that the whole family hasactually starved at this season; sometimes in small hives. This ofcourse depends on the season; when favorable, nothing of the kindoccurs. Prudence therefore dictates the necessity of a provision forthis emergency, by making the hive a little larger for northernlatitudes, as a little more honey will be stored to take them throughthis critical period. From a series of experiments closely observed. 

2, 000 INCHES SAFE FOR THIS SECTION. 

I am satisfied that 2, 000 inches in the clear, is the proper size forsafety in this section, and consequently, profit. On an average, swarmsfrom this size are as large as any. 

The dimensions should be uniform in all cases, whatever size is decidedon. It is folly to accommodate each swarm with a hive corresponding insize; a very small family this year, may be very large next, and a verylarge one, very small, &c. A queen belonging to a small swarm will becapable of depositing as many eggs, as another belonging to a barrelfull. A small family able to get through the winter and spring, may beexpected by another year to be as numerous as any. 

KIND OF WOOD, WIDTH OF BOARD, ETC. 

Of the kinds of wood for hives, pine is preferable, still other kindswill do; I have no faith in bees liking one kind better than another, and less likely to leave on that account. Hemlock is cheaper, and usedto a great extent; when _perfectly sound_ is as good as anything, butis very liable to split, even after the bees have been in them sometime. It should be used only when better wood cannot be obtained. Basswood when used for hives should _always be painted_, and then will bevery liable to warp from the moisture arising from the bees inside. When not painted outside, and allowed to get wet, if only for a fewhours, so much moisture is absorbed that it will bend outward, andcleave from the combs and crack them. A few days of dry weather willrelieve the outside of water, and the inside kept moist by the bees, the bending will be reversed, and the combs pressed inward, keeping thebees fixing that which will not "stay fixed. " Perhaps there is wood assuitable or better than pine, but it is not as common. 

SHAPE OF NO CONSEQUENCE. 

Boards should be selected, if possible, that will be the proper widthto make the hive about square, of the right size. Say twelve inchessquare, inside, by fourteen deep. I prefer this shape to any other, yetit is not all important. I have had some ten inches square by twenty inlength; they were awkward looking, but that was all, I could discoverno difference in their prosperity. Also, I have had them twelve inchesdeep by thirteen square, with the same result. Hence, if we avoidextremes, and give the required room, the shape can make but littledifference. 

It has been recommended to plane the boards for hives, "inside andout;" but bees, when first put into such hive, find much difficulty inholding fast until they get their combs started, hence this trouble isworse than useless. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HIVES. 

If hives are not desired of the cheapest possible construction, theoutside may be planed and painted; but it is doubtful whether stricteconomy would demand it. Yet a painted hive appears so much better, that it ought to be done, especially as the paint adds almost enough toits durability to pay the expense. The color may be whatever fancydictates; the moth will not probably be attracted by one color morethan another. White is affected the least by the sun in hot weather. Lime is put on as white-wash, annually, by many, as a protectionagainst insects. 

When hives are not painted, the grain should never be crosswise, havingthe width of boards form the height; not that the bees would have anydislike to such, but nails will not hold firmly, they draw out in a fewyears. The size, shape, materials, and manner of putting together, arenow sufficiently understood, for what I want. Sticks half an inch indiameter, should cross each way through the centre, to help support thecombs. A hole about an inch diameter in the front side, half way to thetop, is a great convenience for the bees to enter when coming homeheavy laden. 

It now remains to make the top, cover, and boxes, (the bottom-boardwill be described in another chapter. ) The tops should be all alike;boards fifteen inches square are just the right size; three-fourths ofan inch is the best thickness, (inch will do;) plane the upper side, rabbet out around the edge of the upper side one inch wide, andthree-eighths deep; this will leave the top inside the rabbeting, justthirteen inches. 

SIZE OF CAP AND BOXES. 

A box for a cover or cap, that size inside, will fit any hive. Theheight of this box should be seven inches. Of course other sizes willdo, but it is best to commence with one that we can adhere touniformly, and no vexations arise by covers not fitting exactly, &c. Ithink this size is as near correct as we shall be likely to get; wewant all the room in the boxes that the majority of our stocks demandfor storing in a yield of honey, [4] at the same time not benecessitated to give too much of the room in the height. They willcommence work in a box five inches high, much sooner than one seven oreight. To give the requisite room, and have the boxes less than fiveinches high, would require more than thirteen inches on the top, thiswould make the hive too much out of shape; it would appear top-heavy. 

 [4] I have added a side box occasionally, but it has seldom paid me for the trouble. 

MINER'S HIVE. 

Miner's Equilateral Hive has a cap somewhat smaller than this indiameter; consequently, if we have the requisite room, it must be inits height. But by making the cap of his a little larger, and a fewtrifling alterations, it would do very well for a patent. And if anyone _must_ have a patent hive, my advice is to get that; it costs buttwo dollars for the right of using, and is nearer what we want forbees, than any I ever saw. I prefer rabbeting around the edge of thetop, instead of nailing on a thin board the size of the inside of thecover, with room for a slide under it; it affords too nice a place forworms to spin their cocoons. Also, without the rabbeting water may getunder the cap, and pass along the top till a hole lets it among thebees. As for slides, I do not approve of them at all; in shutting offcommunication, it is almost certain to crush a few bees. This makesthem irritable for a week; they are unnecessary for me, at least. Wewill now finish the hive. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HOLES. 

After the top is got out as directed, strike a line through the centre, three and a quarter inches from this, make another on each side, nowmeasure on one of the last lines, two and a half inches for the firsthole, two inches for the next, and so on till five are marked on this, and the same number on the other side, ten in all; these holes shouldbe about an inch diameter, a pattern three and a quarter inches wide, and thirteen in length, with places for holes marked on it, will savetime when many are made. When this top is nailed on, the hive is ready. A less number of holes is often used, and one is thought by some to besufficient; experience has satisfied me that the more room bees have toenter boxes, the less reluctance is manifested in commencing their workin them; but here is another extreme to be avoided: when the holes aremuch larger, or more of them, or even one very large one, the queen isvery apt to go into the boxes and deposit her eggs, which renders thecomb tough, dark, &c. , also bee-bread is stored near the brood. Dr. Bevan's and Miner's cross-bar hives are objectionable on this account, they offer too free access to the boxes; we want all the room that willanswer, and no more. 

A SUGGESTION. 

Mr. Miner's cross-bar hive is intended to make the bees construct allstraight combs, and probably will do it. But the disadvantage ofbee-bread and brood in the boxes will not be made up by straight combs. 

For the benefit of those who have been made to believe straight combs_all important_, and perhaps have purchased the right to make the hive, and had some constructed, and have found bee-bread in their surplushoney, I would suggest an improvement, (that is, if it is thought thestraight combs will pay. If you have not the right for the cross-barhive, and you wish to use it, I would say, buy the right, and removeall grounds of complaint with him. ) Put in the bars and hive your beesas he directs. After all the combs are started, instead of setting theopen bottom boxes (which are also unsuitable for sending to market)directly on the bars as he recommends, take off the cloth, and withscrews fasten on a top with ten holes, that I have just described; andthen you will have the straight combs, and surplus honey in the boxespure. 

GLASS BOXES PREFERRED. 

Having told how I make a hive, I will now give some reasons forpreferring a particular kind of boxes. I have taken great quantities ofhoney to market, put up in every style, such as tumblers, glass jars, glass boxes, wooden boxes with glass ends, and boxes all wood. I havefound the square glass boxes the most profitable; the honey in suchappears to the best possible advantage, so much so, that the majorityof purchasers prefer paying for the box at the same rate as the honey, than the wood box, and have the tare allowed. This rate of sellingboxes always pays the cost, while we get nothing for the wood. Anotheradvantage in this kind of boxes is, while being filled, the progresscan be watched, and the time they are finished known precisely, whenthey should be taken off, as every day they remain after that, soilsthe purity of the combs. 

GLASS BOXES--HOW TO MAKE. 

_Directions for making. _--Select half-inch boards of pine or other softlight wood, cut the length twelve and three-quarters inches, width sixand three-eighths inches, dress down the thickness to three-eighths orless, two pieces for a box, top and bottom, in the bottom bore fiveholes throughout the centre to match with those in the top of the hive, (the pattern used in marking the top of hives is just the one to markthese). Next, get out the corner posts, five-eighths of an inch square, and five inches in length; with a saw, thick enough to fit the glass, cut a channel length-wise on two sides, one-fourth of an inch deep, one-eighth from the corner, for the glass. A small lath nail througheach corner of the bottom into the posts will hold them; it is nowready for the glass--10×12 is the right size to get--have them cutthrough the centre the longest way for the sides, and they are right, and again the other way, five and five-eighths long for the ends. Thesecan now be slipped into the channels of the posts, and the top nailedon like the bottom, and the box is ready. 

GUIDE-COMBS NECESSARY. 

It will be found a great advantage, previous to nailing on the top, tostick fast to it some pieces of guide-combs in the direction you wishthe bees to work. They are also an inducement for them to commenceseveral days sooner, than if they had to start combs for themselves;[5]a piece an inch square will do; it is well to start every comb you wantin the box; two inches apart is about the right distance to look well. To make these pieces hold fast, melt one edge by the fire, or candle, or melt some bees-wax, and dip one edge in that, and apply it beforecooling; with a little practice you can make them stick withoutdifficulty. For a supply of such combs, save all empty, clean, whitepieces you can, when removing combs from a hive. 

 [5] A line of bees-wax made with a guide-plate, or other means, is found to be of but little use. 

If you have any way superior to this for making glass boxes, so muchthe better, make them so by all means: "The best way is as good asany. " I give my method to be used only when better is not convenient. If you sell honey, I think you will find it an advantage to have glassboxes made in some way. Two of this size when full weigh 25 lbs. Ifpreferred, four boxes six and three-eighths inches square, can be usedfor a hive instead of two; the expense of making is a little more forthe same number of lbs. , yet, when it is in market, a few customerswill prefer this size. 

WOOD BOXES. 

For home consumption, the wood-box will answer equally well for allpurposes of obtaining the honey, but will give no chance to watch theprogress of the bees, unless a glass is inserted for the purpose, andthen it will need a door to keep it dark, or a cover over the wholelike the one for glass boxes, may be put on. Wood boxes are generallymade with open bottom, and set on the top of the hive. A passage forthe bees out of the box to the open air is unnecessary, and worse thanuseless. They like to store their honey as far from the entrance aspossible. Unless crowded for room, they will not store much there whensuch entrances are made. 

Whether we intend to consume our surplus honey or not, it is as well tohave the hives and covers made in a manner that we can use glass, whenwe are likely to have some to spare. I am not sure, but it would pay tomake hives in this way, even if glass boxes were never used; therabbeting prevents light as well as water from passing under the cover;imagine a box set on a plain board nailed on for a top, without therabbeting; the warping or bending admits the light and water, especially when hives are out in the weather, (and I shall notrecommend any other way of keeping them. )

COVER FOR HIVES. 

I have termed the cap or box a cover; but this should also be coveredwith a board laid on, if nothing else. A good roof for each hive can bemade by fastening two boards together like the roof of a building; letit be about 18 by 24 inches; it being loose, can be changed inaccordance with the season; in spring, let the sun strike the hive; butin hot weather let the longest end project over the south side, &c. Youcan ornament this hive, if you choose, by mouldings or dentals, underthe top, where it projects over the body of the hive, also the cap canhave the top projected a little and receive the same addition. 

JARS AND TUMBLERS--HOW PREPARED. 

When jars, tumblers, or other vessels, that are all glass, are used, itis _absolutely necessary_ to fasten as many pieces of combs as you wishmade, in the top, for a beginning, or fasten a piece of wood there; asthey seldom commence building on glass, without a start. 

Some of you may have seen paraded at our fairs, or in the public partsof some of our cities, hives containing tumblers, some of them neatlyfilled, others empty, and this meagre sentence written upon them, _notto be filled_! Pretending to govern the bees, as the juggler sometimesdoes his tricks, by mysterious incantations! I once encountered anagent of this humbug, and modestly suggested to him that I had acounter charm: that I could put a tumbler on his hive and it would befilled if the others were, however much he might forbid it by writtencharms! He saw at a glance how the matter stood; I was not the customerhe wanted, and intimated that the show was only intended for theextreme verdancy of most visitors. It no doubt assisted in displayinghis profound knowledge in bee management, which he wished to establish, as he had a little work on the subject to sell, also hives, and bees. The reader no doubt will guess as I did, the reason that those tumblerswere not filled, was because no combs were put in for a start. 

PERFECT OBSERVATORY HIVE DESCRIBED. 

There are many things pertaining to bees that cannot be properlyexamined and understood, without a glass hive of some sort. Yet aperfect observatory hive containing but one comb, is not a perfect hivefor the bees. We can see very well what the bees are doing, but it isnot a tenement they would choose if left to themselves. It forces themto labor in an unnatural manner, is unsuitable for wintering bees, andotherwise but little profit. If the satisfaction of witnessing some oftheir operations more perfectly than in glass hives of another kindwill not pay, it is doubtful if we get it. I will describe as brieflyas possible. Two frames or sashes about two and a half feet square, containing glass, are so fastened together as to leave room for onlyone comb between them, about an inch and three-fourths apart. A comb ofthis size will not support itself by the top and edges; hence, it isnecessary to put in numerous cross-bars to assist in supporting it. Outside the glass are doors to keep the whole dark, to be opened whenwe wish to inspect proceedings. Under the bottom is a board or frame, to keep it in an upright position, &c. Probably but few will be inducedto make one. I will therefore describe another; a hive that I thinkwill pay better. 

ONE LIKE COMMON HIVE PREFERRED. 

If we expect to know what bees are doing in ordinary hives, we musthave one similar in every respect, in size, shape, number of bees, &c. The construction of royal cells will be watched by most observers withthe greatest interest; now these are generally on one edge of thecombs. The bees leave a space half an inch or more between the edges ofthe combs and one side of the hive, near half the length of it, apparently for no other purpose but to have room for these cells, asthe other edges of the same combs are generally attached to the hive atthe bottom. 

WHAT MAY BE SEEN. 

Now instead of having one piece or pane of glass in the side of severalhives, I would recommend having one or more with glass on every side;because we might have it on three sides, and not the fourth; and thismight contain all the queen cells, and we should miss an importantsight. There are many other things to be witnessed in such a hive. Thequeen may be often seen depositing her eggs! We may see the workersdetach the scales of wax from their abdomen, and apply them to thecombs during the process of construction, see them deposit pollen fromtheir legs, store their honey, feed the queen, each other, their youngbrood, seal over cells containing brood, honey, &c. It is furtheruseful as a guide for putting boxes on other hives, (that is, if it isa good one, which it should be); we can easily ascertain whether ourbees are gaining or losing. 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING GLASS HIVE. 

My method of making them is as follows: The top is like those for otherhives, fifteen inches square, adapted to boxes and cover. This hive wewant to be as profitable as any, giving us surplus honey, and swarmslike others. Four posts are then got out, two inches square, andthirteen in length; care should be taken to have the ends perfectlysquare. 

A frame is then to be made, just fourteen inches square outside, forthe bottom; the pieces are one inch thick, by two in width, halvedtogether at the corners. A guage-mark is then made around the underside of the top, half an inch from the edge, a post is then set insideof each corner of this mark, and thoroughly nailed, the bottom isnailed on with the posts even with the outside corners. Four pieces aninch thick, and an inch and a half wide, are fitted between the posts, even with the guage-mark on the top. Sixteen strips, about one quarterby half an inch, are got out, eight to be ten, and eight twelve incheslong. 

A gauge-mark one inch from posts, bottom, &c. , is the place to nailthese strips; very small nails or tacks will hold them. The panes ofglass are to rest against them, which are held in their places by smallpieces of tin, or brads. The doors are the size of the glass, 10×12, about three-fourths of an inch thick; these doors are cut a little tooshort, and the pieces, to prevent warping, are nailed on the ends;these are hung to a post on one side, and secured by a button on theother. On two opposite sides inside the posts, half way up, two strips, half an inch by three quarters, are nailed, with holes in them for thecross-sticks; one way is enough if you have guide-combs for a start, like those recommended for boxes, so that the sheets will be at rightangles with them; otherwise, let the sticks cross both ways, aboutthree each way will be needed, as the glass at the edges is not so gooda support as wood. 

The cap can be made of half inch boards; the top to project over likethe hive, or let it be a little more than half an inch, it will admit aheavier moulding, which should surround it here, as well as at the topof the hive, or if it is prefered, dentals can be used, and lookequally well--when no ornament is wanted, omit it. But painting seemsnecessary for such hives, to prevent warping, and the swelling of thedoors in wet weather; these want to open and shut without rubbing orsticking, otherwise we disturb the bees every time a door is stirred. Putty should not be used to hold the glass, as the bees in the courseof a few years will cover it with propolis; it is then necessary totake it out, and scrape, clean, and return it, when, if fastened withputty, it would be difficult; cold weather is the time for thisoperation. I am aware that a hive can be more substantially made thanthe one here described; but I have endeavored to make one as cheap aspossible, and if properly made, will answer. The cost will be much lessthan many patents, and the satisfaction much more, at least, with many. When our hive contains a swarm of bees, and they are thoroughly inoperation, we must not let them pass out at the bottom on every side, as they are frequently allowed to do from other hives; because, shouldone come out a little excited in consequence of a slight jar, accidentally given the hive, on opening the door or some other way, andshould find our face within a foot of their house, peering in thewindow among their works, it would be very likely to give us _a gentlehint_ that it was a mark of low breeding, that we were not wanted thereat all, and that it was none of our business what they were doing. Toprevent this as far as possible, a bottom-board, somewhat differentfrom the common one, is needed. Four posts of chestnut or other lastingwood, about two inches square, are driven into the earth in the form ofa square, far enough apart to come under the corners of thebottom-board, (fifteen inches, ) and high enough for convenience whenlooking into the hive. The ends of these posts are to be perfectlylevel, and to which the bottom is to be nailed fast. As the hive is tosit perfectly close to the board, a passage must be made through it, aswell as means for ventilation in hot weather, without raising the hivefor that purpose. It requires a board about fifteen inches square, planed smooth, the ends clamped to prevent warping or splitting; aportion of the centre is taken out, say six inches by ten, and wirecloth nailed over, four-ounce tacks will hold it, fasten it just enoughto keep the bees from getting through; very likely it will want to betaken off occasionally and cleaned from the propolis that will bespread over it. It is easiest done in freezing weather. 

Take an edge in each hand, and rock the wires a few times out ofsquare, and it will readily crumble and fall out. In warm weather itmust be scalded or burnt off. To close this space, a moving slide isfixed in grooves under-side, fastened to the posts or board. The slideis to be moved in accordance with the weather, when cold, close it, when hot, withdraw it, and give the bees as much air as possible, without raising the hive, the whole of such space is as muchventilation as ordinary hives raised an inch. (Wire cloth is needed forother purposes, it is best to procure some, even at considerabletrouble and expense. ) On the side of the board intended for the front, two inches from the edge of the wire cloth, a passage is cut for thebees, three-eights of an inch wide, by eleven in length. "But how isthe bees to get to this place, so inconvenient, something is needed toassist them?" Certainly, Sir; an alighting board, eleven inches wide, and about two feet long, (not planed), is placed at an angle offorty-five degrees, between the two front posts of your stand, theupper end passing under the bottom, far enough back; to be just evenwith the back-side of the passage for the bees. The bees alight on thisboard, and walk up into the hive without difficulty. When the bees areat work pretty freely, and a door of this hive is opened, those thatare about departing will be very likely to get on the glass, instead ofthrough the opening at the bottom; seeing the light through the glass, they endeavor to escape by the nearest route. When so many gather hereas to prevent a good view, and you wish to observe further, shut thedoor a moment and they will leave through their own passage, when youcan open your door again, for a short time. After the hive is filledwith combs, the number attracted to the glass on opening a door will bemuch less. 

The plate on the preceding page represents a glass hive, cover, andstand. The common hive can be made equally ornamental, if you choose;this kind of stand is unnecessary for them. I use such as arerecommended on page 138. 

CHAPTER III. 

BREEDING. 

IMPERFECTLY UNDERSTOOD. 

The time that bees commence raising their young brood is butimperfectly understood by most people. Many persons that have kept themfor years, have bestowed so little attention on this point, that theyare unable to tell at what time they commence, how they progress, orwhen they cease. A kind of an idea that one swarm, and occasionally twoor three, are reared sometime in June, or fore part of summer, is aboutthe extent of their reflections on the subject. Whether the dronesdeposit the eggs, or that a portion of the workers are females, andeach raise a young one or two, or whether the "king bee" is the chapfor laying eggs, is a matter beyond their ability to answer. It is buta few years since, that a correspondent of a Journal of Agriculturedenied the existence of a queen bee, giving the best reasons he had, nodoubt, that is, he had never seen one. But bee-keepers of this classare so few, it is unnecessary to waste time to convince them; sufficeit to say, that a queen exists with every prosperous swarm, and allapiarians with much pretensions to science, acknowledge the fact, also, that she is the mother of the whole family. 

The period at which they commence depositing eggs probably depends onthe strength of the colony, amount of honey on hand, &c. , and not thetime they commence gathering food. 

GOOD STOCK SELDOM WITHOUT BROOD. 

I once removed the bees from a hive on the tenth of January, and foundbrood amounting to about five hundred, sealed over, and others in everystage of growth down to the egg. 

This hive had been in the house, and kept warm; it will doubtless besupposed that being kept warm was the cause; but this is not a solitaryinstance. A neighbor lost a hive the fourteenth February, in weathercold enough to seal the entrance with ice, and smother the bees. Iassisted to remove the combs, and found young brood in abundance, fromthe perfect bee, through all stages of growth. This stock had been inthe cold all winter. I have further noticed, when sweeping out thelitter under the hives early in spring, say the first of March, thatyoung bees would often be found under the best stocks. Hence it appearsthere is but little time, and perhaps none, when our best stocks haveno broods. Yet stocks, when very weak, do not commence till warmweather. It seems that a certain degree of warmth is necessary toperfect the brood, which a small family cannot generate. 

HOW SMALL STOCKS COMMENCE. 

The first eggs are deposited in the centre of the cluster of bees, in asmall family; it may not be in the centre of the hive in _all_ cases;but the middle of the cluster is the warmest place, wherever located. Here the queen will first commence; a few cells, or a space not largerthan a dollar, is first used, those exactly opposite on the same combare next occupied. If the warmth of the hive will allow, whether mildweather produces it, or the family be large enough to generate thatwhich is artificial, appears to make no difference; she will then takethe next combs exactly corresponding with the first commencement butnot quite as large a place is used as in the first comb. The circle ofeggs in the first is then enlarged, and more are added in the next, &c. , continuing to spread to the next combs, keeping the distance tothe outside of the circle of eggs, to the centre or place of beginning, about equal on all sides, until they occupy the outside comb. Longbefore the outside comb is occupied, the first eggs deposited arematured, and the queen will return to the centre, and use these cellsagain, but is not so particular this time to fill so many in such exactorder as at first. This is the general process of small or medium sizedfamilies. I have removed the bees from such, in all stages of breeding, and always found their proceedings as described. 

DIFFERENT WITH LARGER ONES. 

But with very large families, their proceedings are different: as anypart of the cluster of bees is warm enough for breeding, there is lessnecessity for economizing heat, and having all the eggs confined to onesmall spot, some unoccupied cells will be found among the brood; a fewwill contain honey and bee-bread. 

HOW POLLEN IS STORED IN THE BREEDING SEASON. 

But in the height of the breeding season, a circle of cells nearly allbee-bread, an inch or two wide, will border the sheets of combcontaining brood. As bee-bread is probably the principal food of theyoung bee, it is thus very convenient. 

When pollen is abundant, and the swarm is in prosperous condition, theysoon reach the outside sheets of comb with the brood. At this period, when the hive is about full, and the queen is forced to the outsidecombs to find a place for her eggs, it is interesting to witnessoperations in a glass hive. I have seen her several times during oneday, on the same piece of comb (next the glass). The light has noimmediate effect on her "Highness, " as she will quietly continue abouther duty, not the least embarrassed by curious eyes at the window. Before depositing an egg, she enters the cell head first, probably toascertain if it is in proper condition to receive it; as a cell partfilled with bee-bread or honey is never used. If the area of combs issmall, or the family is small, and cannot protect a large space withthe necessary heat, she will often deposit two, and sometimes three, inone cell (the supernumeraries I suppose are removed by the workers). But under prosperous circumstances, with a hive of suitable size, &c. , this emergency is avoided. 

OPERATION OF LAYING AND THE EGGS DESCRIBED. 

When a cell is in a condition to receive the egg, on withdrawing herhead she immediately curves her abdomen, and inserts it a few seconds. After leaving it, an egg may be seen attached by one end to the bottom;about the sixteenth of an inch in length, slightly curved, very small, nearly uniform the whole length, abruptly rounded at the ends, semi-transparent, and covered with a very thin and extremely delicatecoat, often breaking with the slightest touch. 

After the egg has been about three days in the cell, a small white wormmay be seen coiled in the bottom, surrounded with a milky-likesubstance, which is its food, without doubt. How this food is prepared, is merely guess-work. The hypothesis of its being chiefly composed ofpollen, I have no objection to; as it is sufficiently proved by thequantities that accumulate in hives that lose their queen, and rear nobrood (that is, when a requisite number of workers are so left). Theworkers may be seen entering the cell every few minutes, probably, tosupply this food. [6]

 [6] When the comb in our glass hive is new, and white, these operations can be seen more distinctly than when very old and dark. 

TIME FROM THE EGG TO THE PERFECT BEE. 

In about six days it is sealed over with a convex waxen lid. It is nowhidden from our sight for about twelve days, when it bites off thecover, and comes forth a perfect bee. The period from the egg to theperfect bee varies from twenty to twenty-four days; average abouttwenty-two for workers, twenty-four for drones. The temperature of thehive will vary some with the atmosphere; it is also governed by thenumber of bees. A low temperature probably retards the development, while a high one facilitates it. You may have seen accounts of theassiduous attentions given to the young bee when it first emerges fromthe cell: 'tis said they "lick it all over, feed it with honey, " &c. , desperately pleased with their new acquisition. 

ROUGH TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG BEE. 

Now, if you expect to see anything of this, you must watch a littlecloser than I have. I have seen hundreds when biting their way out. Instead of care or notice, they often receive rather rough treatment:the workers, intent on other matters, will sometimes come in contactwith one part way out the cell, with force sufficient to almostdislocate its neck; yet they do not stop to see if any harm is done, orbeg pardon. The little sufferer, after this rude lesson, scrambles backas soon as possible out of the way; enlarges the prison door a little, and attempts again, with perhaps the same success: a dozen trials areoften made before they succeed. When it does actually leave, it seemslike a stranger in a multitude, with no friend to counsel, or mother todirect. It wanders about uncared for and unheeded, and rarely finds onesufficiently benevolent to bestow even the necessaries of life; butdoes sometimes. It is _generally_ forced to learn the important lessonof looking out for itself, the day it leaves the cradle. A cellcontaining honey is sought for, where its immediate wants are allsupplied. 

GUESS WORK. 

The time before it is ready to leave the hive for honey, I might guesswould be two or three days. Others have said "it would leave _the dayit left the cell_;" but I guess they guess at this point. They tell us, too, that after the bees seal over the cells containing the larvæ, "they immediately commence spinning their cocoons, which takes justabout thirty-six hours. " I think it very likely; but when I admit it, Icannot imagine how it was ascertained;--the faculty of looking througha mill-stone I do not possess, and it requires about the same opticalpenetration to look into one of these cells after it is sealed over, asit is all perfect darkness. Suppose we drive away the bees and open thecell, to give us a look at the interior: the little insect stops itslabor in a moment, probably from the effect of air and light. I nevercould detect one in its labor. Suppose we open these cells every hourafter sealing; can we tell anything about their progress by theappearance of these cocoons, or even tell when they are finished? Thethickness of a dozen would not exceed common writing paper. When asubject is obscure, or difficult to ascertain, like this, why not tellus how they found out the particulars; and if they were guessed at, behonest, and say so? When the bee leaves the cell, a cocoon remains, andthat is about all we _know_ about it. 

TERMS APPLIED TO YOUNG BEES. 

The young bee, when it first leaves the egg, is termed grub, maggot, worm, or larva; from this state it changes to the shape of the perfectbee, which is said to be three days after finishing the cocoon; fromthe time of this change, till it is ready to leave the cell, the termsnymph, pupa, and chrysalis, are applied. The lid of the drone's cell israther more convex than that of the worker's, and when removed by theyoung bee to work its way out, is left nearly perfect; being cut offaround the edges, a good coat or lining of silk keeps it whole; whilethe covering of the worker's cell is mostly wax, and is pretty well cutto pieces by the time the bee gets out. The covering to the queen'scell is like the drone's, but larger in diameter, and thicker, beinglined with a little more silk. 

DISCREPANCY IN TIME IN REARING BROOD AS GIVEN BY HUBER. 

We are told by most writers, the period of time necessary to perfectfrom the egg, the three different kinds of bees. Huber leads the way, and the rest, _supposing him to be right_, repeat in substance hisaccount as follows: That the whole time necessary to perfect a queenfrom the egg is sixteen days, the worker twenty, and the dronetwenty-four days; Huber (as quoted by Harpers) gives the time of eachstage of development belonging to each kind of bee; but is ratherunfortunate in arithmetic; the items, or stages, when added together, "do not prove, " as the school-boys say; that is, he gains time bymaking his bee by degrees. He says, first, of the worker, "It remainsthree days in the egg, five in the grub state, it is thirty-six hoursin spinning its cocoon; in three days it changes to a nymph, passes sixin that form, and then comes forth a perfect bee. " How do the items add?

 The egg, 3 days. Grub, 5 " Spinning cocoon, 1-1/2 " Changing to a nymph, 3 " In that form, 6 " ------- 18-1/2 days. 

One and a half days short. We will next see how the figures with theroyal insect match; recollect sixteen days are all she has allowed;then, of the different stages, "three days in the egg, is five a worm, when the bees close its cell, and it immediately begins its cocoon, which is finished in twenty-four hours. During eleven days, and evensixteen hours of the twelfth, it remains in a state of complete repose. Its transformation into a nymph then takes place, in which state fourdays and part of the fifth are passed. " Now let us add the items:

 The egg, 3 days. A worm, 5 " Spinning a cocoon, (24 hours), 1 " Reposes eleven days and 16 hours, 11-2/3 " A nymph four days, and part of the fifth, 4-1/3 " ------- 25 days. 

Now, reader, what do you make of such palpable blundering guess-work? Adifference of nine days--the merest school-boy ought to know better!Can we rely on such history? Does it not prove the necessity of goingover the whole ground, applying a test to every assertion, and arevision of the whole matter throughout? My object is not to findfault, but to get at _facts_. When I see such guess-work as the abovepublished to the world, in this enlightened age, gravely told to therising generation, as a portion of natural history, I feel it a dutynot to resist the inclination to expose the absurdity. 

THE NUMBER OF EGGS DEPOSITED BY THE QUEEN GUESSED AT. 

The number of eggs that a queen will deposit is often another point ofguess-work. When the estimate does not exceed 200 per diem, I have noreason to dispute it; the number will probably fall short in somecases, and exceed it in others. Some writers suppose that this number"would never produce a swarm, as the bees that are lost daily amountto, or even exceed that number, " and give us instead from eight hundredto four thousand eggs in a day, from one queen. The only way to testthe matter accurately, is by actually counting, in an observatory hive, or in one with sufficient empty combs to hold _all the eggs_ she willdeposit for a few days, when, by removing the bees, and countingcarefully, we might ascertain, and yet several would have to beexamined, before we could get at the average. The nearest I ever cameto knowing anything about it happened as follows: A swarm left, and thequeen from some cause was unable to cluster with it, and was found, after some trouble, in the grass a few rods off. She was put in thehive with the swarm about 11 o'clock, A. M. ; the next morning, atsunrise, I found on the bottom-board, among the scales of wax, 118 eggsthat had been discharged in that time. Probably a few escaped notice, as the color is the same as wax scales; also, they might already havehad combs containing some. I have several times found a few the nextmorning, under swarms hived the day previous, but never over thirty, except in this one instance. The reason of this queen not being able tofly well might have been an unusual burden of eggs. Perhaps it would beas well to mention here, that in all cases where eggs are found in thisway, that they must be first swarms which are accompanied by the oldqueens. 

Schirach estimates "the eggs a single female will lay, from 70, 000 to100, 000 in a season. " Reaumer and Huber do not estimate so high. Another writer estimates 90, 000, in three months. Let the number be asit may, probably thousands are never perfected. During the springmonths, in medium and small families, where the bees can protect withanimal heat but a few combs, I have often found cells containing aplurality of eggs, two, three, and occasionally four, in a single cell. These supernumeraries must be removed, and frequently may be foundamongst the dust on the bottom-board. 

A TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF A QUEEN. 

If you have a hive that you suspect has lost a queen at this season, her presence can be ascertained nine times in ten by this method. Sweepoff the board clean, and look the next day or two after for these eggs. Take care that ants, or mice, have no chance to get them; they mightdeceive you, being as fond of eggs for breakfast as anyone. [7] When oneor more is found, or any immature bees, it is sufficient, no furtherproof of the presence of a queen is needed. 

 [7] It is said that the bees will devour these eggs also. 

Another portion of eggs is wasted whenever a supply of their foodfails; if we remove the bees from a stock during a scarcity, when thehive is light, we will be very likely to find hundreds of eggs in thecells, and but very few advancing from that stage towards maturity. Ihave thus found it in the fall, in July, and sometimes the first ofJune, or at any time when maturing the brood would be likely to exhausttheir stores, to endanger the family's supply. Now, instead of thefertility of the queen being greater in spring and first of summer thanat other times, (as we are often told), I would suggest the probabilitythat a greater abundance of food at this season, and a greater numberof empty cells, may be the reason of the greater number of beesmatured. 

WHEN DRONES ARE REARED. 

Whenever the hive is well supplied with honey, and plenty of bees, aportion of eggs are deposited in the drone-cells, which three or fourdays more are necessary to mature than the worker. 

WHEN QUEENS ARE REARED. 

Also, when the combs become crowded with bees, and honey plenty, thepreparations for young queens commence: as the first step towardsswarming, from one to twenty royal cells are begun; when about halfcompleted, the queen (if all continues favorable) will deposit eggs inthem, these will be glued fast by one end like those for the workers;there is no doubt but they are precisely the same kind of eggs thatproduce other bees. When hatched, the little worm will be supplied witha superabundance of food; at least, it appears so from the fact, that afew times I have found a quantity remaining in the cell after the queenhad left. The consistence of this food is about like cream, the colorsome lighter, or just tinged with yellow. If it was thin like water, oreven honey, I cannot imagine how it could be made to stay in the upperend of an inverted cell of that size in such quantities as are put in, as the bees often fill it near half full. Sometimes a cell of this kindwill contain this food, and no worm to feed upon it. I _guessed_ thebees had compounded more than their present necessities required, andthat they stored it there to have it ready, also, that being there allmight know it was for royalty. 

[Illustration: PLATE OF THE THREE KINDS OF CELLS. ]

The taste is said to be "more pungent" than food given to the worker, and the difference in food changes the bee from a worker to a queen. Ihave nothing to say against this hypothesis; it may be so, or the youngbee being obliged to stand on its head may effect it, or both causescombined may effect the change. I never tasted this food, or found anytest to apply. 

The preceding plate represents a piece of comb containing all thedifferent cells--those at the left hand the size for drones. In thecentre are few that appear sealed over, others nearly covered, othersthe larva in different stages of growth, as well as the eggs. _Fig. 1_represents a queen's cell just commenced. They are usually started thusfar the first season, very frequently when the hive is only half ortwo-thirds full. _Fig. 2_ is a cell sufficiently advanced to receivethe egg. _Fig. 3_ one finished, the stage when the first swarm leaves. _Fig. 4_ when a queen has been perfected and left. _Fig. 5_ is a cellwhere its occupant has been destroyed by a rival, and removed by theworkers. It will be perceived that each finished queen's cell containsas much wax as fifty made for the workers. 

LIABILITY OF BEING DESTROYED. 

In any stage from the egg to maturity these royal insects are liable tobe destroyed;--if honey fails from any cause sufficient to make theexistence of a swarm any way hazardous, the preparations are abandoned, and these young queens destroyed; (I would here request the reader notto condemn me for telling more than I can prove, until he has had thewhole story; in the swarming season, I will give further particulars. )

DRONES DESTROYED WHEN HONEY IS SCARCE. 

When an occurrence like the above happens, the drones next fall victimsto the failure of honey. A brief existence only is theirs; such as areperfect, are destroyed without mercy; those in the chrysalis state areoften dragged out, and sacrificed to the necessities of the family. Such as are allowed to hatch, instead of being fed and protected asthey would be if honey was abundant, are allowed, while yet weak fromthe effects of hunger, to wander from the hive, and fall to the earthby hundreds. These effects attend only a scarcity in the early part ofthe season. The massacre of July and September is quite different. Thedrones then have age and strength--an effort is apparently first madeby the workers to drive them out without proceeding to extremes; theyare harassed sometimes for several days; the workers feigning only tosting, or else they cannot, as I never succeeded in seeing but very fewdispatched in that way; yet there is evidence proving beyond doubt thatthe sting is used. Hundreds will often be collected together in acompact body at the bottom of the hive; this mutual protectionaffording a few hours' respite from their tormentors, who do not ceaseto worry them. In a few days they are gone, and it is a hard matter totell what has become of them, at least the majority. If the hive inSeptember is well supplied with honey, a portion of the drones have alonger lease of life given them; I have seen them as late as December. In some seasons, when the best hives are poorly supplied with stores, the ensuing spring the bees will rear no drones, until the flowersyield a good supply. I have known one or two years in which no dronesappeared before the last of June; at other times, thousands are maturedby the first of May. 

OLD QUEEN LEAVES WITH THE FIRST SWARM. 

The old queen leaves with the first swarm; as soon as cells are readyin the new hive she will deposit her eggs in them, at first forworkers; the number perfected will correspond with the supply of honeyand size of the swarm. When the supply fails before leaving the oldstock, she remains _there_, and continues laying throughout the season;but the bees matured after the 20th of July (in this section) are notmore than sufficient to keep the number good. As many die, or are lostduring their excursions, as the young ones will replace; in fact, theyoften lose rather than gain; so that by the next spring, a hive thathas cast no swarm, is no better for a stock than one from which a swarmhas issued. We are apt to be deceived by bees clustering outside, towards the latter end of the season, and suppose it hardly possiblefor them all to get in, when it may be caused by hot weather, fullstores, &c. 

A YOUNG QUEEN TAKES THE PLACE OF HER MOTHER IN THE OLD STOCK. 

In ordinary circumstances, when a swarm has left a stock, the oldest ofthe young queens is ready to emerge from her cell in about eight ornine days; if no second swarm is sent out, she will take her mother'splace, and begin to lay eggs in about ten days, or a little less. Twoor three weeks is the only time throughout the whole season, but whateggs can be found in all prosperous hives. Whenever a copious yield ofhoney occurs, drones are reared; as it becomes scarce, they aredestroyed. 

The relative number of drones and workers that exist when they are mostnumerous, doubtless depends on the size of the hive, whether one inten, or one in thirty. 

When a swarm is first hived, the first cells are the size for working;if the hive be very small, and bees numerous, it may be filled beforethey are fully aware of it, and but few drone-cells constructed;consequently, but few can be raised; whereas if the hive be large, longbefore it is full, considerable honey will be stored. Cells for storinghoney are usually the size for drones; these will be made as soon asthe requisite number for workers is provided. An abundant yield ofhoney during the process of filling a large hive, would therefore causea great proportion of these cells to be built--the amount ofdrone-brood being governed by the same cause, is a strong argumentagainst large hives, as affording room for too many of these cells, where an unnecessary number of drones will be reared, causing a uselessexpenditure of honey, &c. 

OTHER THEORIES. 

Theories differing materially from the foregoing, are advanced bynearly all writers. One says, "In spring the queen lays about 2, 000eggs of males, resumes it again in August, but during the rest of theintervals she exclusively lays worker eggs. The queen must be at leasteleven months old before she begins to lay the eggs of males. " Mr. Townley makes the same assertion. Dr. Bevan says, "the great laying ofdrone eggs usually commences about the end of April. " Another authorrepeats about the same, and appears to have investigated farther, as hehas found out that the eggs for the two kinds of bees are germinatedseparately, and the queen knows when each kind is ready, as well as theworkers, &c. Now, I beg leave to differ a little from these authors. Either there exists no difference in the eggs germinated, and any, orall will produce drones or workers, just as they happen to be depositedand fed; or else the periods of laying drone eggs are much morefrequent than any writer with which I am acquainted has been willing toallow. 

SUBJECT NOT UNDERSTOOD. 

I am not anxious to establish a new theory, but to get at facts. If wepretend to understand natural history, it is important that we have itcorrect; and if we do not understand it, say so, and leave it open forfurther investigation. It is my opinion that we _know_ but very littleabout this point. I wish to induce closer observation, and wouldrecommend no _positive_ decision, until all the facts that will applyhave been examined. Whether these drone-egg theories have been toohastily adopted, the reader can decide; I shall offer a few more facts, somewhat difficult to reconcile with them. 

First, in relation to the queen being "eleven months old" before layingdrone eggs. We _all_ agree, I believe, that the old queen goes with thefirst swarm, and a young one remains in the old stock. Now suppose thefirst swarm leaves in June, and the old stock yet contains a numerousfamily. The flowers of buckwheat in August yield a bountiful harvest ofhoney. This old stock rears a large brood of drones. Is it not provedin this case that the queen was but two months old, instead of eleven?We further agree that young queens accompany second or after-swarms. When these happen to be large and prosperous, they never fail to rear abrood of drones at this season. What is the age of these? I apprehendthat this eleven months theory originated in sections where there areno crops of buckwheat raised, or in small quantities. Clover generallyfails in August, and May, or June, of another year comes round, beforethere is a sufficient yield to produce the brood. With theseobservations _only_, how very rational to conclude that it must be alaw of their nature, instead of being governed by the yield of honey, and size of the family? If the periods of drone egg laying are limitedto only two or three, it would seem that all queens ought to be readywith this kind of egg, about the same period of the season, but how arethe facts?

I would like to inquire what becomes of the first series of drone eggs, the last of April, or the first of May, when the stocks are poorlysupplied with honey, or when a family is small and but little honeythrough the summer? No drone brood is matured in these cases. It is notpretended that the queen has any control over the germination of theseeggs, yet somehow she has them ready whenever the situation of the hivewill warrant it. Two stocks may have an equal number of bees the firstof May; one may have forty pounds of honey, the other four pounds; thelatter cannot afford to rear a drone, while the other will havehundreds. Let two stocks have but four pounds each at any time insummer when honey is scarce, now feed one of them plentifully, and abrood of drones is sure to appear, while the other will not produceone. Whenever stocks are well stored with honey, and full of bees, thefirst of May will find drone-cells containing brood. If the flowerscontinue to yield a full supply, these cells may be examined every weekfrom that period till the first swarm leaves, and I will engage thatdrone brood may be found in all stages from the egg to maturity; andthe worker brood the same. In twenty-four days after the first swarmleaves, the last drone eggs left by the old queen will be just aboutmatured. When transferring bees from old to new hives, I generally doit about twenty-one or twenty-two days after the first swarm, (this isthe time to avoid destroying the worker-brood; the particulars will begiven in another place. ) I have transferred a great many, and _neverfailed_ to find a few drones about ready to leave the combs. Whetherthe swarm had left the last of May, or middle of July, there was nodifference, they were on hand. 

A very early swarm in good seasons, will often fill the hive, and sendout an issue in from four to six weeks: the usual amount of drone-broodmay be found in these cases. The following circumstance would appear toindicate that all the eggs are alike, and if they are laid indrone-cells, the bees give the proper food and make drones; if inworker-cells, workers, just as they make a queen from a worker-egg, when put in a royal cell. 

In a glass hive, one sheet of comb next the glass, and parallel withit, was full size; about three-quarters of this sheet was worker-cells, the remainder drone-cells. The family had been rather small, but nowhad increased to a full swarm; a few drones had matured in the middleof the hive. It was about the middle of June, 1850, when I discoveredthe bees on this outside sheet, preparing it, as I thought, for brood, by cutting off the cells to the proper length. They had been used forstoring honey, and were much too long, being about an inch and a halfdeep. In a day or two after I saw a few eggs in both worker anddrone-cells; four or five days afterwards, on opening the door, I foundher "majesty" engaged in depositing eggs in the drone cells. Nearlyevery one already contained an egg; most of these she examined, but didnot use them; six or eight, it appeared, were all that were unoccupied;in each of these she immediately deposited an egg. She continued tosearch for more empty cells, and in doing so, she got on the part ofthe comb containing worker-cells, where she found a dozen or moreempty, in each of which, she laid one. The whole time perhaps thirtyminutes. Query? Was her series of drone eggs exhausted just at thistime? If so, it would appear that she was not aware of it, because sheexamined several drone-cells after laying the last one there, beforeleaving that part of the comb, and acted exactly as if she would haveused them had they not been pre-occupied. Did the worker-cells receivesome eggs that would have produced drones, but for the circumstance ofbeing deposited in worker-cells? I know we are told that an egg may betransferred from a worker-cell to one for drones, or an egg taken froma drone-cell and deposited in a worker-cell; that the exchange willmake no difference, the bee will be just what the first deposit wouldhave made it. How the knowledge for this assertion was obtained, we arenot informed, at least of the practical part. That an egg was everdetached from the bottom of one cell safely and successfully depositedin another, without breaking or injuring it in some manner, to make thebees refuse it, permit me at present to doubt. 

NECESSITY FOR FURTHER OBSERVATION. 

Cannot some experiments, practicable to all, be instituted that willthrow more light on this subject? The old hypothesis of limitingdrone-egg laying to two or three periods, is evidently at fault. 

TWO SIDES OF THE QUESTION. 

If we suppose that the eggs are all alike, and the subsequent treatmentmakes either workers, drones, or queens, and look to analogy forsupport, we shall find much against, as well as for it. For instance, we find in almost every department of animated nature, that the sex ofthe germ of a future being is decided before being separated from theparent, as the eggs of fowls, &c. Another fact, some queens (averagingone in sixty or eighty) deposit eggs that produce only drones, [8]whether in worker or drone-cells, proving that sex is decided in thiscase beyond controversy. Hence it would appear reasonable, if sex wasdecided by the ovaries of the queen, in one case, it would be inanother. 

 [8] I have had several such. It made no difference whether the eggs were in the worker-cells or drone-cells, the brood was all drones. When in the worker-cells, (and the majority was there, ) they required to be lengthened about one-third. In an occurrence of this kind, the colony of workers will rapidly diminish in number, until too few are left to protect the combs from the moth. It occurs most frequently in spring, but I once had a case the last of summer. The first indications are an unusual number of caps, or covers of cells, being under and about the hive; the workers, instead of increasing, grow less in number. When you fear this state of things, make a thorough examination, blow under the hive some tobacco smoke, as directed in pruning, invert the hive, part the combs till you can see the brood; if the worker-cells contain drones, they are readily perceived, as they project beyond the usual even surface, being very irregular, here and there a few, or perhaps but one sticking out. The worker-brood, when in their own cells, form nearly an even surface; so of the drones. The only remedy that I have found is to destroy this queen, and substitute another, which can be obtained in the swarming season, or in the fall, better than at other times. To find the queen, paralyze with puff-ball, &c. For directions see fall management. 

To allow the bees the power of making three kinds of bees from one kindof eggs, which would be virtually constituting a third sex, an anomalynot often found. The drones being males, and workers imperfect femaleswith generative organs undeveloped, renders the anomaly of the thirdsex unnecessary. On the other side it might be said in reply: That iffood and treatment would create or produce organs of generation in thefemale, by making an egg destined for a worker into a queen, (a factwhich all apiarians admit, ) why not food and treatment make the drone?Is the difficulty of developing _one_ kind of sexual organs greaterthan another?

Respecting the anomaly of the eggs of some queens producing onlydrones, the question might be asked, Is this more of an anomaly thanthat of ordinary queens which are said to germinate eggs in distinctseries? It is all out of the usual line. Other animals or insectsusually produce the sexes promiscuously. As we are ignorant of causesdeciding sex in any case, we must acknowledge mystery to belong to bothsides of the question here. The stumbling-block of more than two sexes, which seems so necessary to make plain, is no greater here than withsome species of ants, that have, as we are told, king, queen, soldierand laborer. Four distinct and differently formed bodies, all belongingto one nest, and descended from one mother. Whether there are fourdistinct kinds of eggs producing them, or the power is given to theworkers to develop such as are wanted, from one kind, we cannot say. Ifwe make two kinds of eggs, it helps the matter but very little. Thereis still an anomaly. There is but one perfect female in a nest togerminate eggs, and the myriads produced (being over 80, 000 intwenty-four hours, according to some historians) shows that thefecundity of our queen-bee is not a parallel case by any means. And yetthey are similar, by having their offspring provided for without aneffort of their own. 

I shall leave this matter for the present, hoping that _somethingconclusive_ may occur in the course of my experiments, or those ofothers. At present I am inclined to think that the eggs are all alike, but am not fully satisfied. 

I am aware that this matter is of but little value or interest to many, but myself and a few others have "Yankee inquisitiveness" pretty welldeveloped, and would like to _know_ how it _was_ managed. 

As for workers proving occasionally fertile, I have but little to say. After years of close observation directed to this point, I have beenunable to discover anything to establish this opinion. Neither have Ifound the black bees described by some authors. It is true that in themiddle or latter part of summer a portion will be much darker thanothers, and perhaps rather smaller, and some of them with their wingssomewhat worn, probably the result of continued labor, peculiar food, or some incidental circumstance. 

I have a few times found a humble-bee under the hive, that had entered, and not finding his way out readily, was speedily shorn of hisbeautiful "locks, " and consequently his strength--that is, everyparticle of hair, down, feathers, bristles, or whatever he had beencovered with, was completely removed by the bees, who had no regard forhis beautiful alternating stripes of yellow and brown; which left himthe very picture of darkness. 

CHAPTER IV. 

BEE PASTURAGE. 

In some seasons the earth is covered with snow much later than others. When this occurs, a greater number of warm days are necessary to meltit, and start the flowers, than otherwise. 

SUBSTITUTE FOR POLLEN. 

During these warm days, while waiting for the flowers, the bees areanxious to do something. It is then interesting to watch them, and seewhat will be used as substitutes for pollen and honey. At such times, Ihave seen hundreds engaged on a heap of sawdust, gathering the minuteparticles into little pellets on their legs, seeming quite pleased withthe acquisition. Rotten wood, when crumbled into powder, and dry, isalso collected. Flour, when scattered near the hive, I have known to betaken up in considerable quantities. Some apiarians have fed it totheir bees at this season, and consider it a great advantage; I havenot tested it sufficient to give an opinion. A substitute for honey issap from a few kinds of trees, yet it all amounts to but very little. All these unnatural sources are abandoned when the flowers appear. 

MANNER OF PACKING IT. 

The particular manner of obtaining pollen has been witnessed by butvery few persons, as it is generally brushed from their bodies andpacked on their legs, while on the wing, thereby preventing a fairchance to inspect operations. When collecting only pollen they alighton the flowers, passing rapidly over the stamens, detaching a portionof the dust, which lodges on most parts of them, to be brushed togetherand packed into pellets when again on the wing. Thus they keepalternately flying and alighting until a load is obtained, when theyimmediately return to the hive; each bee bringing several loads in aday. Honey, as it is collected, is deposited in the abdomen, and keptout of sight till stored in the hive. 

ALDER YIELDS THE FIRST. 

The first material gathered from flowers is pollen. Candle-alder(_Alnus Rubra_)[9] yields the first supply. The time of floweringvaries from the 10th of March to the 20th of April. The amount affordedis also variable. Cold, freezing weather frequently destroys a greatportion of these flowers after they are out. These staminate flowersare nearly perfected the season previous, and a few warm days in springwill bring them out, even before any leaves appear. When the weathercontinues fine, great quantities of farina are secured. 

 [9] The botanical names are from Wood's Class-Book. 

The time that bees commence their labors does not govern the time ofswarming by any means; this matter depends on the weather through Apriland May. These remarks apply particularly to this section, GreenCounty, New York, in latitude about 42 degrees. In other places manydifferent trees, shrubs, and herbs, may be found yielding honey andpollen that scarcely exist here, producing far different results. 

Our swamps produce several varieties of willow, (salix, ) that put outtheir blossoms very irregularly. Some of these bushes are a monthearlier than others, and some of the buds on the same bush are a weekor two later than the rest. These also afford only pollen, but are muchmore dependence than alder, as a turn of cold weather cannot at anytime destroy more than a small part. Next comes the aspen, (_PopulusTremuloides_); of this we have more than is necessary for any purpose. It is not a particular favorite with the bees, as but few, comparatively, visit it. It is followed very soon by an abundance ofthe red maple (_Acer Rubrum_), that suits them better, but this, likethe others, is often lost by freezing. The first honey obtained of anyaccount is from the golden willow (_Salix Vitellina_); it yields nopollen, and is seldom injured by frost. Gooseberries, currants, cherries, pear and peach trees, add a share of both honey and pollen. Sugar maple (_Acer Saccharinum_) now throws out its ten thousand silkentassels, beautiful as gold. Strawberries modestly open their petals ininvitation, but, like "obscure virtues, " are often neglected for themore conspicuous Dandelion, and the showy appearance and flagrantblossoms of the apple-trees, which now open their stores, offering totheir acceptance a real harvest. 

FRUIT FLOWERS IMPORTANT IN GOOD WEATHER. 

In good weather, sometimes a gain of twenty lbs. Is added to theirstores, during this period of apple-tree blossoms. But we are seldomfortunate enough to have good weather all through this period, it beingrainy, cloudy, cool, or windy, which is very detrimental. Sometimes afrost at this time destroys all, and the gain of our bees is reversed, that is, they are lighter at the end than at the beginning of theseflowers. Yet this is the season that decides their prosperity for thesummer, whether they do _first rate_ or otherwise. If good weather now, we expect our first swarms about the first of June; if not, nosubsequent yield of honey will make up for this deficiency. We now havea time of several days, from ten to fourteen, in which but few flowersexist. If our hives are poorly supplied when this scarcity occurs, itwill so disarrange their plans for swarming, that no preparations areagain made much before July, and sometimes not at all. In sectionswhere the wild cherry (_Cerasus Seratina_) abounds, the flowers of thiswill appear and fill this time of scarcity, which this section annuallypresents. 

RED RASPBERRY A FAVORITE. 

The red raspberry (_Rubus Strigosus_) next presents the stamens as themost conspicuous part of the flower, soliciting the embrace of the bee, by pouring out bounteous libations more prized by our industriousinsect than wine. For several weeks they are allowed to partake of thisexquisite beverage; it is secreted at all hours and in all kinds ofweather. When the morning is warm we often hear their cheerful hummingamong the leaves and flowers of this shrub, ere the sun appears abovethe horizon. The gentle shower, sufficient to induce man to seek ashelter, is often unheeded by the bee when luxuriating among theseflowers; even white clover, important as it is in furnishing thegreatest part of their stores, at this season, would be neglected ifthere was only a full supply of this. Clover begins to blossom with theraspberry, and continues longer. We have an insufficient supply (inthis section) in most seasons. Red clover probably secretes as muchhoney as the white, but the tube of the corolla being longer, the beeappears to be unable to reach it. Yet I have seen a few at work evenhere but it appeared like slow business. Sorrel, (_Rumex Acetosella_)the pest of many farmers, is brought under contribution, and furnishesthe precious dust in any quantity. Morning is the only part of the dayappropriated to its collection. 

CATNIP, MOTHER-WORT, AND HOARHOUND ARE SOUGHT AFTER. 

Catnip, (_Nepeta Cataria_, ) Mother-wort, (_Leonurus Cardiaca_, ) andHoarhound, (_Marrubium Vulgare_, ) about the middle of June, put forththeir flowers, rich in sweetness, and like the Raspberry, the beesvisit them at all hours and in nearly all kinds of weather. They lastfrom four to six weeks; the catnip I have known to last twelve in a fewinstances, yielding honey during the whole time. Ox-eye daisy, (_Leucanthemum Vulgare_, ) that beautiful and splendid flower, inpasture and meadow, and worth but little in either, also contains somehoney. The flower is compound, and each little floret containsparticles so minute, that the task of obtaining a load is very tedious. It is only visited when the more copious honey-yielding flowers arescarce. Snap-dragon, (_Linaria Vulgaris_, ) with its nauseous andsickening odor, troubling the farmer with its vile presence, is made tobestow the only good thing about it, except its beauty, upon ourinsect. The flower is large and tubular, and the bee to reach the honeymust enter it; to see the bee almost disappear within the folds of thecorolla, one would think that it was about being swallowed, when thehideous mouth was gaping to receive it; but unharmed, soon it emergesfrom the yellow prison, covered with dust; this is not brushed intopellets on its legs, like the pollen from some other flowers, but apart adheres to its back between the wings, which it is apparentlyunable to remove, as it remains there sometimes for months, making acluster outside the hive, appear quite speckled. Bush honey-suckle(_Diervilla Trifida_) is another particular favorite. 

SINGULAR FATALITY ATTENDANT ON SILKWEED. 

Silkweed (_Asclepias Cornuti_) is also another honey-yieldingperennial, but a singular fatality attends many bees while gatheringit, that I never yet saw noticed. I had observed during the period thisplant was in bloom, that a number of the bees belonging to swarms, before the hive was full, were unable to ascend the sides to the comb;there would be sometimes thirty or more at the bottom in the morning. On searching for the cause, I found from one to ten thin yellow scales, attached to their feet, triangular, or somewhat wedge shape, in sizeabout the twentieth part of an inch. On the longest point or angle, wasa black thread-like point, from a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch inlength; on this stem was either hooks, barbs, or a glutinous matter, that firmly adhered to each foot or claw of the bee, rendering ituseless as far as climbing the sides of the hive was concerned. I foundalso among bees clustered outside of full hives, this ornamentattached, but to them it appeared no inconvenience. Among the scales ofwax and waste matter that accumulates about the swarms to the amount ofa handful, I found a great many of these scales, which the bees hadworked from their feet. The question then arose, were these scales aforeign substance, accidentally entangled in their claws, or was itsomething formed there by nature, or _rather_ an unnatural appendage?It was soon decided. From the number of bees carrying it, I wassatisfied that if it was the product of any flower, it belonged to aspecies somewhat abundant. I set about a close examination of all suchas were then in bloom. I found the flowers of the Silkweed, (orMilkweed, as some call it, ) sometimes holding a dead bee by the foot, secured by this appendage. Both sepals and petals of this flower arere-curved, that is, turned backward towards the stem, forming fiveacute angles, or notches, just the thing for a trap for a bee with_strings_ of _beads_ on its toes; when at work they are very liable toslip a foot into one of these notches; the flower being thick and firm, holds it fast; pulling only draws it deeper into the wedge-like cavity. The bee must either perish or break loose; their instincts fail them inthis emergency; they know nothing about getting it out by a gentle pullthe other way. I never saw one do it except by accident. By examiningthe buds of this plant just before opening, I found this fatalappendage, by which great numbers of our bees are lost. [10] When Ipoint out a loss among our bees, I would like to give a remedy; buthere I am at a loss, unless all these plants are destroyed, and this isimpracticable in many places. After all I am not sure but honey enoughis obtained by such bees as do escape, to counterbalance what we lose. This would depend on the amount of honey yielded by other flowers atthe same time. 

 [10] In Wood's Class-book of Botany, "Order CII. , " in a plate showing the parts of this plant, it is thus described: "Fig. 11, a pair of pollen masses suspended from the glands at an angle of the antheridium, " &c. 

 One, when reading this simple botanical description, and seeing the plate, or the Botanist with his glasses, when he minutely inspects the parts, would not suspect anything fatal to bees about it. 

Whitewood (_Liriodendron Tulipifera_) yields something eagerly soughtfor by the bees, but whether honey, or pollen, or both, I have neverbeen able to ascertain. All the flowers of this kind, with us, are toohigh. It is very scarce, as well as Basswood, (_Tilia Americana_, )--thatin some places is abundant, and yields honey clear and transparent aswater, superior in appearance, but inferior in flavor to clover; italso appears much thinner when first collected. 

LARGE YIELD FROM BASSWOOD. 

During the time this tree is in bloom, a period of two or three weeksin many sections, astonishing quantities are obtained. A person onceassured me that he had known "ten pounds collected by one swarm in aday, by weighing the hive in the morning and again at evening. " I havesome doubt of the statement, and think half the amount would be a goodday's work; but I had but a small chance to know, as only a few trees, as a specimen, grow in this section. I have weighed hives duringseasons of apple-tree blossoms and buckwheat, the two best yields ofhoney we have, and three and a half pounds was the best for one daythat I ever had. Sumach, (_Rhus Glabra_, ) in some sections, affordsconsiderable honey. Mustard (_Sinapis Nigra_) is also a great favorite. 

I have now mentioned most of the honey-producing trees and plants thatcome on before the middle of July. The course of these flowers istermed the first yield. In sections where there are no crops ofbuckwheat, it constitutes the only full one. Other flowers continue tobloom till cold weather. Where white clover is abundant and the fieldsare used for pasture, it will continue to throw out fresh flowers, sometimes, throughout the summer; yet the bees consume about all theycollect in rearing their brood, &c. Thus it appears in some sectionssix or eight weeks is about all the time they have to provide forwinter. 

GARDEN FLOWERS UNIMPORTANT. 

In passing along I have not mentioned garden flowers, because theamount obtained here is a small item, compared to the forest andfields--especially ornamental flowers. It is true that the Hollyhock, (_Altha Rosea_, ) Mallows, (_Malva Rotundifolia_) and many others yieldhoney, but what does it amount to? A person expecting his hives to befilled from such a source would very likely be disappointed, especiallywhen many are kept together. 

HONEY-DEW. 

Honey-dew is said to be a source from whence large collections are madein some places. When or where it appears or disappears is more than Ican tell. I have seen the accounts of it, but accounts I have learnedto doubt until I find something corroborative in my own experience. Ifind too many errors copied merely because they happen to be in companywith several truths. Huber discovered many important truths, and hasgiven them to the world; too many writers take it for granted when twopoints of his are true, the third _must be also_. It is no proof thatthere is no such article merely because I never discovered it. In themany fruitless endeavors that I have made to get a view of thissubstance, it may be I have lacked close observation; or possibly thereis none showered upon this region; or I may have failed to bring myimagination to assist me to convert common dew into the real article. 

SINGULAR SECRETION. 

I once discovered bees collecting a secretion unconnected with flowers;but was not honey-dew, as it has been described. I was passing a bushof Witch-hazel, (_Hamamelis Virginiana_, ) and was arrested by anunusual humming of bees. At first I supposed that a swarm was about me, yet it was late in the season, (it being about the 25th July. ) On closeinspection, I found the bush contained numerous warty excrescences, thesize and shape of a hickory-nut. These proved to be only a shell--theinside lined with thousands of minute insects, a species of aphis. These appeared to be engaged sucking the juices, and discharging aclear, transparent fluid. Near the stem was an orifice about an eighthof an inch in diameter, out of which this liquid would gradually exude. So eager were the bees for this secretion, that several would crowdaround one orifice at a time, each endeavoring to thrust the otheraway. This occurred several years ago, and I never have been able tofind anything like it since; neither have I learned whether it iscommon in other sections. 

SECRETIONS OF THE APHIS. 

The liquid ejected by the aphis, (plant louse, ) when feeding or suckingthe juices of tender leaves, and received by the ants that are alwaysin attendance, is something like it; but in this case the bees were inattendance instead of ants. 

This mode of elaborating honey, although not generally collected bybees, perhaps may not be too much out of place here. Also, it mayfurnish a clue to the cause or substantiate some theory of honey-dew. 

These insects (_Aphis_) have been very appropriately termed "ants'cows, " as they are regarded by them with the most tender care andsolicitude. In July or August, when the majority of the leaves of ourapple trees are matured, there is often a few sprouts or suckers aboutthe bottom or trunk, that continue growing and putting out freshleaves. On the under side of these, you will find the _aphis_ byhundreds, of all sizes, from those just hatched to the perfect insectwith wings. All appear to be engaged in sucking the bitter juice fromthe tender leaf and stalk. The ants are among them by scores. (They areoften accused by the careless observer of the injury, instead of the_aphis_. ) Occasionally there will issue from their abdomen a small, transparent globule, which the ant is ever ready to receive. When aload is obtained it descends to the nest; others may be seen going andreturning continually. Many other kinds of trees, shrubs and plants areused by the ants as "cow pasture, " and most kinds of ants are engagedin this dairy business. [11] Would the bees attend on the _aphis_ forthis secretion, (for it appears to be honey, ) if the ant was not therefirst? Or if there were no ants or bees, would this secretion bedischarged, and falling on the leaves below them, be honey-dew? If theywere situated on some lofty trees, and it lodged on the leaves of smallbushes near the earth, it would, with some authors. 

 [11] The history of insects, as published by Harpers, gives more particulars on this interesting subject. 

These questions I shall not answer, at present. As for theory, I shallprobably have enough before I get through, where I hope the subject maybe more interesting. [12]

 [12] Since the foregoing was written, I have made some further observations on this subject. In August, 1852, I noticed, on passing under some willow trees, (_Salix Vitellina_, ) that leaves, grass, and stones, were covered with a wet or shining substance. On looking among the branches, I found nearly all the smallest were covered with a species of large black _aphis_, apparently engaged in sucking the juices, and occasionally discharging a minute drop of a transparent liquid. I _guessed_ this might be the honey-dew. As this was early in the morning, I resolved to visit this place again, as soon as the sun got up far enough to start out the bees, and see if they collected any of it. On my return I found not only bees in hundreds, but ants, hornets, and wasps. Some were on the branches with the _aphis_, others on the leaves and larger branches. Some of them were even on the stones and grass under the trees, collecting it. 

We will now return to the flowers, and see what few there are yet toappear, after the middle of July. The button-ball bush (_CephalanthusOccidentalis_) is now much frequented for honey. Also, our vines, melons, cucumbers, squashes, and pumpkins. The latter are visited onlyin the morning, and honey is the only thing obtained; notwithstandingthe bee is covered with farina, it is not kneaded into pellets on itslegs. I have seen it stated that bees never get honey early in themorning, but pollen instead. Now it is not best always to take ourword, who pretend to know all about it, but look for yourselves intosome of these matters. Take a look some warm morning, when the pumpkinsare in bloom, and see whether it is honey or pollen they are in questof. Also please make an observation when they are at work on the redraspberry, motherwort, or catnip; you will thus ascertain a fact soeasily, that you will wonder any one with the least pretension toapiarian science could be ignorant of it. I mention this, not becauseit is of much importance in itself, but to show the fallibility of usall, as we sometimes copy the mistaken assertions of others. 

ADVANTAGES OF BUCKWHEAT. 

Under some circumstances, clover will continue to bloom through thispart of the season; also, a few other flowers; but I find by weighing, a loss from one to six pounds, between the 20th July and the 10th ofAugust, when the flowers of buckwheat begin to yield honey, whichgenerally proves a second harvest. In many places it is their maindependence for surplus honey. It is considered by many an inferiorquality. The color, when separated from comb, resembles molasses ofmedium shade. The taste is more pungent than clover honey; it isparticularly prized on that account by some, and disliked by others forthe same reason. In the same temperature it is a little thicker thanother honey, and is sooner candied. 

AMOUNT OF HONEY COLLECTED FROM IT. 

Swarms issuing as late as the 15th July, when they commence onbuckwheat, sometimes contain not over five pounds of stores, and yetmake good stocks for winter, whereas, without this yield, they mightnot live through October. It fails about once in ten years. I haveknown a swarm to gain in one week sixteen pounds, and construct comb tostore it at the same time. At another time I had a swarm issue the 18thAugust, that obtained thirty pounds in about eighteen days. But suchbuckwheat swarms, in ordinary seasons, seldom get over fifteen pounds. The flowers last from three to five weeks. The time of sowing the grainvaries in different sections, from the 10th of June to the 20th July. Farmers wish to give it just time to ripen before frost, as the yieldof grain is considered better, but as the time of frost is a matter ofguess-work, some will sow several days earlier than others. Whenever anabundant crop of this grain is realized, a proportionate quantity ofhoney is obtained. 

DO BEES INJURE THE CROP?

Many people contend that bees are an injury to this crop, by takingaway the substance that would be formed into grain. The best reasonsfor this opinion that I have obtained are these: "I believe it, andhave thought so a long time. " "It is reasonable if a portion of thisplant is taken away by the bees, there must be a less quantity ofmaterial left for the formation of seed, &c. " Most of us have learnedthat a person's opinion is not the strongest kind of proof, unless hecan exhibit substantial reasons for it. Are the above reasonssatisfactory? How are the facts? The flowers expand, and a set ofvessels pour into the cup or nectary a minute portion of honey. I amnot aware that any one contends that the plant has another set ofvessels prepared to again absorb this honey and convert it into grain. But strong testimony proves very plainly that it never again enters thestalk or flower, but evaporates like water. We all know that animalmatter when putrid will be dissolved into particles small enough tofloat in the atmosphere, too minute for the naked eye. When passing offin this way this real flesh and blood would escape notice perhapsaltogether, and never be detected, were it not for the olfactories, which on some occasions notify us of its presence very forcibly. Inpassing a field of buckwheat in bloom, by the same means we are assuredof the presence of honey in the air. Now what is the difference whetherthis honey passes off in the air, or is collected by the bees? If anydifference, the advantage appears to be in favor of the bees gettingit, for the reason that it thus answers another important end in theeconomy of nature, consistent with her provisions in ten thousanddifferent ways of adapting means to ends. Most breeders of domesticanimals are aware of the deteriorating qualities induced by in-and-inbreeding; a change of breed is found necessary for perfection, &c. 

ARE NOT BEES AN ADVANTAGE TO VEGETATION?

Vegetable physiology seems to indicate a similar necessity in thatdepartment. The stamens and pistils of flowers answer the differentorgans of the two sexes in animals. The pistil is connected with theovaries, the stamens furnish the pollen that must come in contact withthe pistil; in other words, it _must be impregnated_ by this dust fromthe stamens, or no fruit will be produced. Now if it be necessary tochange the breed, or essential that the pollen produced by the stamensof one flower shall fertilize the pistil of another, to preventbarrenness, what should we contrive better than the arrangement alreadymade by Him who knew the necessity and planned it accordingly? And itworks so admirably, that we can hardly avoid the conclusion _that beeswere intended for this important purpose_! It is thus planned! Theirwants and their food shall consist of honey and pollen; each flowersecretes but little, just enough to attract the bee; nothing like afull load is obtained from one; were it thus, the end in view would notbe answered; but a hundred or more flowers are often visited in oneexcursion; the pollen obtained from the first may fertilize many, previous to the bees' returning to the hive; thus a field of buckwheatmay be kept in health and vigor in its future productions. A field ofwheat produces long slender stalks that yield to the influence of thebreeze, and one ear is made to bestow its pollen on a neighboring earseveral feet distant, thereby effecting just what bees do forbuckwheat. Corn, from its manner of growth, the upright stalk bearingthe stamens some feet above the pistils, on the ears below, seems toneed no agency of bees; the superabundant pollen from the tassel iswafted by the winds rods from the producing stalk, and there does itsoffice of fertilizing a distant ear, as is proved by differentvarieties mixing at some distance. But how is it with our vinestrailing on the earth, a part of these flowers producing stamens, theother only pistils? Now it _is absolutely essential_ that pollen fromthe staminate flowers shall be introduced into the pistillate toproduce fruit; because if a failure occurs in this matter the germ willwither and die. Here we have the agent ready for our purpose; theseflowers are visited by the bee promiscuously; no pollen (as was said)is kneaded into pellets, (particularly that from pumpkins, ) but itadheres to every part of their body, rendering it next to impossiblefor a bee thus covered with dust to enter the pistillated flowerwithout fulfilling the important duty designed, and leave a portion ofthe fertilizing dust in its proper place. Hence it is reasonablyinferred by many, that if it was not for this agent among our vines, the uncertainty of a crop from non-fertilization would render thecultivation of them a useless task. 

When the aphis is located on the stalk or leaf of a plant it isfurnished with means to pierce the surface and extract the juicesessential to the formation of the plant, thereby preventing vigorousgrowth and a full development. This idea is too apt to be associatedwith the bee when she visits the flower, as if she was armed with aspear, to pierce bark or stem and rob it of its nourishment. Her realstructure is lost sight of, or perhaps never known; her slenderbrush-like tongue folded closely under her neck, and seldom seen exceptwhen in use, is not fitted to pierce the most delicate substance; allthat it can be used for is to sweep or lick up the nectar as it exudesfrom the pores of the flower, secreted, it would seem, for no otherpurpose but to attract her--while there she obtains nothing but whatnature has provided for her and given her the means of obtaining, andthe most delicate petal receives no injury. 

During an excursion the bee seldom visits more than a single species offlower; were it otherwise, and all kinds of flowers were visitedpromiscuously, by fertilizing one species with the pollen from another, the vegetable kingdom would be very likely to get into confusion. Writers, when noticing the peculiarity of instinct governing the beehere, cannot be content always, but must add other marvels. They followthis trait into the hive, and make her store every kind by itselfthere. Relative to honey it is not an easy matter to be positive; butpollen is of a variety of colors, generally yellow, yet sometimespale-green, and reddish or dark-brown. Now I think a little patientinspection would have satisfied any one that two kinds _are_ sometimespacked in one cell, and prevented the assertion to the contrary. I willadmit that two colors are seldom found packed together, but sometimeswill be. I have thus found it, and it has entirely ruined that theoryfor me. 

A TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF QUEEN DOUBTED. 

It is further asserted that if a hive loses its queen "no pollen iscollected. " Also, "that such quantities are sometimes collected, andfill so many cells, that too little room is left for brood, and thestock rapidly dwindles away in consequence. " The first of theseassertions has been given as a test to decide whether the hive containsa queen or not. Now my bees have such a habit of doing things wrongthat the above is no test whatever. It is made to appear very well intheory, but wants the truth in practice. I will say what I have knownon this point, and perhaps clear up the difficulty of a stockcontaining an unusual quantity of bee-bread with the honey, and insteadof being the cause of its having but few bees, it is the effect. Stocksand sometimes swarms lose their queen in the swarming season, (theparticulars will be given in another place, ) when, instead of remainingidle, the usual quantity of both _pollen and honey is collected_(unless the family is very small). There being no larvæ to consume thebread, the consequence is, more than half the breeding cells willcontain it; they will be packed about two-thirds full, and finished outwith honey. I have known a large family left under such circumstances, and about all the cells in the hive would be occupied. Whereas, in astock containing a queen and rearing brood, _a portion of the combswill be used for this purpose until the flowers fail_, and then suchcomb will be found empty. 

AN EXTRA QUANTITY OF POLLEN NOT ALWAYS DETRIMENTAL. 

To test whether this extra quantity of bee-bread was so _very_detrimental, I have introduced into such hive in the fall a family witha queen and wintered them in it, and watched their prosperity anotheryear, and never found them less profitable on that account. I am sowell satisfied of this, that whenever I now have a hive in such asituation, it is a rule to introduce a swarm. 

It is calculated, I believe, generally, that when medium-sized hivesare full, about seven-eighths of the cells are made the proper diameterfor raising the workers, the remainder for drones, except a few forqueens. Here is one circumstance I do not remember to have seenmentioned, and that is, bee-bread is generally packed exclusively inthe worker cells. I would say always; but I would do better to becareful, especially as I find my bees doing things so differently fromsome others. I might as well remark here, that when taking combs from ahive filled with honey, if such pieces were selected as contained onlythe large or drone cells, but little risk of bee-bread would occur; ofthe other combs, the outside sheets and the corners of the others nearthe top are the next best. The sheets of comb used principally forraising workers, and the cells next those so used, for an inch or twoin width, are nearly all packed with pollen, and much of it willremain, when the breeding season is past. Smaller portions are found inthe worker cells in nearly all parts of the hive; even the boxes willsometimes contain a little. 

MANNER OF PACKING STORES. 

In a glass hive, the bees may be seen depositing their load of pollen;the legs holding the pellets are thrust into the cell, (not theirheads), and a motion like rubbing them together is made for a halfminute, when they are withdrawn, and the two little loaves of bread maybe seen at the bottom. This bee appears to take no farther care aboutthem, but another will soon come along, and enter the cell head first, and pack it close; this cell is filled about two-thirds of its lengthin this way, and when sealed over a little honey is used to fill itout. 

PHILOSOPHY IN FILLING A CELL WITH HONEY. 

To witness the operation of depositing honey, a glass hive or box isrequisite; the edges of the combs will be attached to the glass--whenhoney is abundant, most of these cells next the glass will containsome. Now is the time to see the operation, glass forming one side ofsuch as are in contact, &c. The bee may be seen to enter the cell tillit reaches the bottom; with its tongue, the first particle isdeposited, and brushed into the corners or angles, carefully excludingall the air from behind it--as it is filled, that next the sides of thecell is kept in advance of the centre. The bee does not put its tonguein the centre and pour out its load there, but carefully brushes thesides as it fills, excluding every particle of air, and keeps thesurface concave instead of convex. This is just as a philosopher wouldsay it should be. If it was filled at once and no care taken to attachit to the sides, why, the external air would never keep it there, whichit does effectually when of ordinary length. When the cell is aboutone-fourth of an inch deep they often commence filling it, and as it islengthened they add to it, keeping it within an eighth of an inch ofthe end; it is never quite full till nearly sealed over, and often notthen. In cells of the worker size, the sealing seldom touches thehoney. But in the size for drones the case is different; the honey onthe end touches the sealing, about half the diameter on the lower side;it is kept in the same shape while being filled; but being somewhatlarger, the atmospheric pressure is less effectual in keeping the honeyin its place; consequently, when they commence sealing these cells theybegin on the lower side and finish at the top. 

LONG CELLS SOMETIMES TURNED UPWARD. 

When storing honey in boxes, cells of this size are usually muchlonger, in which case they are crooked, the ends turning upward, sometimes half an inch or more; this, of course, will prevent the honeyfrom running, but if the box is taken off and turned over before suchcells are sealed, they are very sure to spill most of their contents. The cells in the breeding apartment, of ordinary length, will hold thehoney well enough as long as horizontal; but turn the hive on its side, and bring the open end downward, in hot weather, or break out a pieceand hold it in that position, the air will not sustain it in them, butwill, in the size suitable for workers. 

When the hive is fully supplied with bees and honey, (unless destituteof a queen, ) I never examined one, winter or summer, but it had anumber of unsealed cells containing honey, as well as pollen; it is sowhen they have stored fifty pounds in boxes, even when so crowded forroom as to store honey outside or under the bottom-board; ever havingsome cells open for a ready supply. 

Young swarms seem unwilling to construct combs faster than needed foruse; it would appear, at first thought, to be a lack of economy. Whenno honey is to be obtained and nothing to do, then it would seem to bea fine chance for getting ready for a yield; but this is not _their_way of doing business; whether they cannot spare the honey alreadycollected to elaborate the wax, or whether they find it more difficultto keep the worms from a large quantity of comb, I shall not decide. Ofthis I am satisfied, that it is better arranged by their instincts, than we could do it. Large swarms, when first located, if honey isabundant, will extend their combs from top to bottom in a little morethan two weeks; but such hive is not yet full; some sheets of comb maycontain honey throughout their whole length, and not a cell be sealedover; but, however, they generally find time to finish up within a fewinches of the lower end as they proceed. Whenever unfinished cellscontain honey, it will generally be removed soon after the flowersfail, and used before that which is sealed; and the cells will remainempty till another year. 

IS A DRY OR WET SEASON BEST FOR HONEY?

The inquiry is often made, "What kind of season is best for bees, wetor dry?" This point I have watched very closely, and have found that amedium between the two extremes produces most honey. When farmers beginto express fears of a drought, then is the time (if in the season offlowers) that most honey is obtained; but if dry weather passes theselimits, the quantity is greatly diminished. Of the two extremes, perhaps very wet is the worst. 

HOW MANY STOCKS SHOULD BE KEPT. 

"What number of stocks can there be kept in one place?" is anotherquestion often asked. This is like Mr. A. Asking farmer B. How manycattle could be pastured in a lot of ten acres. Farmer B. Would firstwish to know how much pasture said lot would produce, before he couldbegin to answer; since one lot of that size might produce ten times asmuch as the other. So with bees, one apiary of two hundred stocks mightfind honey in abundance for all, and another of forty might almoststarve. Like the cattle, it depends on pasture. 

THREE PRINCIPAL SOURCES OF HONEY. 

There are three principal sources of honey, viz. :--clover, basswood, and buckwheat. But clover is the only universal dependance; as that isalmost everywhere, to some extent, in the country. Buckwheat in someplaces is the main source; in others, basswood, which is of briefduration. Where all three are abundant, there is the true El Dorado ofthe apiarian! With plenty of clover and buckwheat, it is nearly aswell. Even with clover alone, enormous quantities of honey areobtained. I have said what was our dependence in this section. I willfurther say that within a circle of three or four miles, there are keptabout three hundred stocks. I have had for several years, threeapiaries about two miles apart, averaging in spring a little more thanfifty in each. When a good season for clover occurs, as many more wouldprobably do equally well, but in some other seasons I have had toomany; on an average nearly right. When clover furnishes too littlehoney for the number, buckwheat usually supplies more than iscollected. Of surplus honey, the proportion is about fifteen pounds ofbuckwheat to one of clover. I have now been speaking of large apiaries. There can hardly be a section of country found, that man can procurehis living, but what a few stocks would thrive, even if there were nodependence on the sources just mentioned. There will be somehoney-yielding flowers in nearly all places. The evil of over-stockingis of short duration, and will work its own cure speedily. Somejudgment is required here as well as in other matters. 

Another question of some interest, is the distance that a bee willtravel in search of honey in flowers--it is evident that it will befarther than they will go to plunder a stock. I have heard of theirbeing found seven miles from home. It was said they ascertained, bysprinkling flour on them as they left the hive in the morning, and thensaw the same bees that distance away. When we consider the chances offinding a bee even one mile from the hive thus marked, it appears likea "poor look;" and then pollen the color of flour might deceive us. Itis difficult to prove that bees go even two miles. Let us say we guessat it, for the present. 

CHAPTER V. 

WAX. 

The careless, unreflecting observer, when seeing the bees enter thehive with a pellet of pollen on each of their posterior legs, is veryapt to conclude that it must be material for comb, as it appears unlikehoney. So little regard is paid to the matter by many people, that theyare unable to imagine any other use for it. Others suppose that it willchange from that to honey, after being stored a time in the hive, andwonder at the curious phenomenon; but when asked how long a time mustelapse before it takes place, they cannot tell exactly, but they "havefound cells where it began to change, as a portion near the outer endof the cell had become honey, and no doubt the remainder would intime. " It has been remarked that cells were only filled abouttwo-thirds full of this, and finished with honey; now when any onefinds a cell filled to the brim with pollen, and no honey, suchreasoning will apply better. If this was the case, by examining atdifferent periods through the summer, we certainly should find somecells before the change had commenced, instead of their always being injust this stage of transition. 

IS POLLEN CONVERTED INTO WAX?

As for pollen being converted into wax or comb, a simple question willshow its fallacy. Do not the bees belonging to a hive that is full ofcombs, and no more wax for that purpose needed, bring home as much andoften more pollen than one half full? Any person who has watched twosuch hives five minutes when busily engaged at work, can answer. It isevident, then, that pollen is for something else besides wax. 

HOW IS IT OBTAINED?

The inquiry is now made, "Where do they get it from, if not frompollen?" I might with propriety answer, they don't get it at all. "Stop, there, if you please; if you expect us to credit you, you mustnot give us too much absurdity. " Well, let me ask a question. Docattle when grazing actually obtain flesh, bone, &c. , or only thematerials from which these parts are secreted? As to the production ofwax, I believe all close observers (that I have found) agree that it isa secretion natural only to the bee. With the ox, fruit, grain, orgrass may be converted into tallow; with the bee, honey and syrup madeof sugar may be converted into wax. These are probably the only twosubstances yet discovered from which they extract it. Some writers havepretended that pollen is also used, but they have failed to prove thatthe old bees consume it at any time; which they must in this case if itis converted into wax. From experiments related by Huber, either ofthese substances, mixed with a little water, is all sufficient for itsproduction. From experiments of my own, I am satisfied that he iscorrect. The experiment is tried by shutting up a swarm when firsthived; feeding them with honey--a few of the bees will probably havesome pollen, though not enough to make a comb three inches square, yetit is something--and to be certain, time must be given them to exhaustit. In three or four days take out the bees and remove the combs;inclose them again, and feed with honey as before. Repeat the process, until satisfied that no pollen is needed in the composition of wax. Huber removed the combs "five times, " with the same result at everytrial. Whenever bees are _confined_ in hot weather, _air and water areabsolutely necessary_. 

We will now describe the first appearance of wax, and how it isproduced. When a swarm of bees is about leaving the parent stock, three-fourths or more of them will fill their sacks with honey. Whenlocated in their new home, of course no cells exist to hold it; it mustremain in the stomach or sack for several hours. The consequence is, that thin white scales of wax the sixteenth of an inch in diameter, somewhat circular, are formed between the rings of the abdomen, underside. With the claws of one of their hind legs one of these is detachedand conveyed to the mouth, and there pinched with their forceps orteeth, until one edge is worked somewhat rough; it is then applied tothe comb being constructed, or to the roof of the hive. The firstrudiments of comb are often applied within the first half hour afterthe swarm is hived. In the history of insects before noticed, is aminute account of the first foundation of combs, somewhat amusing, ifnot instructive. 

HUBER'S ACCOUNT OF A COMMENCEMENT OF COMB. 

Huber, it is said, "having provided a hive with honey and water, it wasresorted to in crowds by bees, who, having satisfied their appetite, returned to the hive. They formed festoons, remained motionless fortwenty-four hours, and after a time scales of wax appeared. An adequatesupply of wax for the construction of a comb having been elaborated, one of them disengaged itself from the centre of the group, andclearing a space about an inch in diameter, at the top of the hive, applied the pincers of one of its legs to its side, detached a scale ofwax, and immediately began to mince it with the tongue. During theoperation, this organ was made to assume every variety of shape;sometimes it appeared like a trowel, then flattened like a spatula, andat other times like a pencil, ending in a point. The scale, moistenedwith a frothy liquid, became glutinous, and was drawn out like ariband. This bee then attached all the wax it could concoct to thevault of the hive, and went its way. A second now succeeded, and didthe like; a third followed, but owing to some blunder did not put thewax in the same line with its predecessor; upon which another bee, apparently sensible of the defect, removed the displaced wax, andcarrying it to the former heap, deposited it there, exactly in theorder and direction pointed out. " Now I have some objections to make tothis account. First, in the usual course of swarming, it is unnecessaryto provide the honey and water, as they come laden with honey from theparent stock. Next, to form festoons and remain motionless twenty-fourhours to concoct the wax, is not the way they generally manage affairs. They either swallow the honey before leaving home long enough to havethe wax ready, or less time than twenty-four hours is needed to produceit. I have frequently found lumps, half the size of a pin's head, attached to the branch of a tree where they had clustered, when theyhad not been there over twenty-five minutes. I have had occasion a fewtimes to change the swarm to another tenement, an hour or two afterbeing hived, and found places on the top nearly covered with wax. Howit was managed to see a bee quit the "group, " is more than I cancomprehend; and then the tongue to be the only instrument used to mouldthe scale of wax, is another difficulty; to witness the whole processminutely in this stage of comb-making has never been my good fortune, and I am sometimes inclined to doubt the success of others. I have hadglass hives, and put swarms in them, and always found the firstrudiments of comb so entirely covered with bees as to prevent my seeinganything. 

BEST TIME TO WITNESS COMB-MAKING. 

The only time when I have witnessed the process with any degree ofsatisfaction is when the combs approach the glass, and but few bees inthe way; then, by watching patiently a few minutes, some part of theprocess may be seen. 

MANNER OF WORKING WAX. 

Transferring the swarms to different hives from one to forty-eighthours after being hived, will show their progress. I have found thatwax is attached to the top of the hive at first promiscuously, that is, without the least order, until some of the blocks or lumps aresufficiently advanced for them to begin cells. The scales of wax arewelded on the edge quite thick, without regard to the shape of thecell, then an excavation is made on one side for the bottom of a cell, and two others on the opposite side; the division between them exactlyopposite the centre of the first. When this piece is an inch or two inlength, two other pieces at equal distances on each side are commenced. If the swarm is large, and honey abundant, it is common for two piecesof comb to be started at one time on different parts of the top; thesheets in the two places are often at right angles, or any other way, just as chance happens to give direction. The little lumps that areplaced at random at first are all removed as they advance. 

While the combs are in progress, the edges are always kept much thethickest, and the base of the cell is worked down to the properthickness with their teeth, and polished smooth as glass. The ends ofthe cell also, as they lengthen them, will always be found much thickerthan any other part of it when finished. 

When two combs approach each other in the middle of the hive at nearlyright angles, an edge of comb is left there; but when an obtuse angle, the edges are generally joined, making a sheet of crooked comb. It isevident where the two combs join, there must be some irregular cellsunfit for rearing brood. 

CROOKED COMBS A DISADVANTAGE. 

These few irregular cells have been considered a great disadvantage. Itis thought, or pretended, that there is a vast difference between theprosperity of a stock with straight combs and one with crooked ones. Toavoid them, or cause the bees to make them all straight, has given riseto much contrivance, as if a few such cells could effect much. Supposethere were a dozen sheets of comb in a hive, and each one had a row ormore of such irregular cells from top to bottom, what proportion wouldthey hold to those that were perfect? Perhaps not one in a thousand. Hence we infer that in a hive of the proper size, the difference inamount of brood never could be perceived. This is the only differenceit can make, because such cells can be used for storing honey as wellas others. But sometimes there will be corners and spaces not wideenough for two combs, and too wide for one of the proper thickness forbreeding. As bees use all their room economically, and generally at thebest advantage, a thick comb will be the result. It is said they neveruse such thick combs for breeding. How are the facts? I have just sucha space in a glass hive; one comb two inches thick. How is it managed?Towards fall this sheet is filled with honey; the cells outside arelengthened until there is just room for a bee to pass between them andthe glass, when they are sealed over. In spring these long cells areall cut down (except at the top and upper corners) to the proper lengthfor breeding, and used for this purpose. This has been done for fiveyears in succession. 

I will grant that there is a little waste room in such spaces, for partof the year. It amounts to but little, as it is only outside. They arenecessitated to make such combs, because the inside combs, if built ina breeding apartment, however crooked one may be, the next one willgenerally match it, the right distance from it. But when they are builtexpressly for storing honey, in such as are made in boxes, the rightdistance is not so well preserved; hence it is not recommended tocompel bees to use such storing apartment for breeding. But suppose weshould compel a swarm to labor under these disadvantages, I should notapprehend such disastrous results, (providing they have a properproportion of worker cells, ) as no swarms, or even no surplus honey, ashas been represented. Imagine a hive filled with combs that are all toothick, and room wasted when cut down, to the amount of one-fourth ofall that is in the hive. Now here are combs enough left to maturethree-fourths as many bees as in an ordinary hive, where all are right. We can now suppose a good swarm will bring home the same amount ofhoney as though it belonged to other hives; only three-fourths as muchcan be fed to the brood, and stored in the hive; and the result oughtto be, that we get a quarter more surplus honey in boxes. Even if weget no swarm, I cannot see how our surplus honey can be less, as inthis case there would be more bees at all times than in a hive that hadbeen reduced by swarming. 

Does experience substantiate the theory that stocks with crooked combsare as profitable as when they are straight? When combs are builtexpressly for breeding, I could never discover any difference. Anyperson can easily test it by a little observation; not by taking asolitary instance of only one hive, because some other cause mightproduce the result. Take a half-dozen at least with straight combs, andas many with them crooked; have them all alike in other respects, andcarefully watch the result. I think you will have but little interestwhich way the combs are made, providing _they are made_, as far asprofit is concerned. It is true, it would gratify order to have themall straight, and if it was not attended with more trouble than theresult would pay for, it would be well to have them so. 

In ordinary circumstances, when a swarm is first hived, they set aboutcomb-making immediately; yet sometimes they will remain two days, andnot make a particle. I have known them to swarm out and cluster in theusual way, and when rehived, commence at once. This seems to prove thatthey can retain the wax, or prevent secreting it, till wanted. Thisseldom occurs. 

UNCERTAINTY IN WEIGHT OF BEES. 

A large swarm will probably carry with them some five or six pounds ofhoney from the parent stock. I only guess at this, because I amuncertain what the bees weigh exactly. "I can tell you, " some oneexclaims, "I saw some weighed, --so many weigh just eight ounces. " Areyou sure there was nothing but bees weighed? Was there no honey, bee-bread, fæces, or other substance, that might deceive you? "Can'tsay; I never thought of that!" Now it is important, if we weigh bees toknow _their_ weight, to be sure we weigh nothing else. It is evident, that if five thousand weigh three pounds, when nothing is in theirsacks, they would weigh, when filled with honey, several pounds more. Hence, the fallacy of judging of the size of a swarm by weight, as oneswarm might issue with half the honey of another. Perhaps eight pounds, for large swarms, might be an average for bees and honey. This honey, whatever it amounts to, cannot be stored till combs are constructed tohold it. This principle holds good till the hive is full. That is, whenever they have more honey than the combs will hold, if there isroom in the hive, they construct more. But they seem to go no fartherthan this in comb-making. However large the swarm may be, thiscompulsion appears necessary to fill the hive. Drone-cells are seldommade in the top of the hive, but a part are generally joined on theworker-cells, a little distance from the top; others near the bottom. There seems to be no rule about the number of such cells. Some hiveswill contain twice the number of others. It may depend on the yield ofhoney at the time; when very plenty, more drone-cells, &c. If the hivebe very large, no doubt an unprofitable number would be constructed. Where the large and small cells join, there will be some cells ofirregular shape; some with four or five angles; the distance from oneangle to the other is also varied. Even where two combs of cells thesame size join, making a straight comb, they are not always perfect. 

SOME WAX WASTED. 

When constructing comb, they are constantly wasting wax, eitheraccidentally or voluntarily. The next morning after a swarm is located, the scales may be found, and will continue to increase as long as theyare working it; the quantity often amounts to a handful or more. It isthe best test of comb-making that I can give. Clean off the board andlook the next morning, you will find the scales in proportion to theirprogress. Some will be nearly round as at first; others more or lessworked up, and a part will be like fine saw-dust. 

Huber and some others have divided the working bees into differentclasses, denominating some wax-workers, others nurses, and pollengatherers, &c. It may be partially true, but how it was found out isthe mystery. 

The angles in the cells used for brood, are gradually filled, and aftera time become round, both at the ends and sides. 

WATER NECESSARY TO COMB-MAKING. 

Whenever bees are engaged making comb, a supply of water is absolutelynecessary. Some think it requisite in rearing brood. It may be neededfor that, or it may be required for both purposes; but yet I havedoubts if a particle is given to the young bee, besides what the honeycontains. June, and first part of July, and most part of August (theseason of buckwheat, ) are periods of extensive comb-making; they thenuse most water; breeding is carried on from March till October, and asextensively in May, perhaps more so, than in August, yet not a tenthpart of the water is used in May. 

I have known stocks repeatedly to mature brood from the egg to theperfect bee, when shut in a dark room for months, when it wasimpossible to obtain a drop; also stocks that stand in the cold, (ifgood, ) will mature some brood whether the bees can leave the hive ornot. These facts prove that some are reared without water. As they getsufficient honey to require more comb to store it, they will at thesame time have a brood; and it is easy to guess they need it for broodas comb, without a little investigation. This much is certain, thatthey use water at such times for some purpose, and when no pond, brook, spring, or other source is within convenient distance, the apiarianwould find it economy to place some within their reach, as it wouldsave much valuable time, if they would otherwise have to go a greatdistance, when they might be more profitably employed; it alwayshappens in a season of honey. It should be so situated that the beesmay obtain it without jeopardizing their lives;--a barrel or pail hassides so steep that a great many will slip off and drown. A trough madevery shallow, with a good broad strip around the edge to afford analighting place, should be provided. The middle should contain a float, or a handful of shavings spread in the water with a few small stoneslaid on them to prevent their being blown away when the water is out, is very convenient. A tin dish an inch or so in depth, will do verywell. The quantity needed may be ascertained by what is used--only givethem enough, and change it daily. I have no trouble of this kind, asthere is a stream of water within a few rods of the hives; but I havean opportunity to witness something of the number engaged in carryingit. Thousands may be seen (in June and August) filling their sacks, while a continual stream is on the wing, going and returning. 

REMARKS. 

The exact and uniform size of their cells is perhaps as great a mysteryas anything pertaining to them; yet, we find the second wonder beforewe are done with the first. In building comb, they have no square orcompass as a guide; no master mechanic takes the lead, measuring andmarking for the workmen; each individual among them is a finishedmechanic! No time is lost as an apprentice, no service given in returnfor instruction! Each is accomplished from birth! All are alike; whatone begins, a dozen may help to finish! A specimen of their work showsitself to be from the hands of master workmen, and may be taken as amodel of perfection! He, who arranged the universe, was theirinstructor. Yes, a profound geometrician planned the first cell, andknowing what would be their wants, implanted in the sensorium of thefirst bee, all things pertaining to their welfare; the impress thengiven, is yet retained unimpaired! They need no lectures on domesticeconomy to tell them, by using the base of one set of cells on one sideof their combs, for the base of those on the opposite, will save bothlabor and wax; no mathematician that a pyramidal base, just threeangles, with just such an inclination, will be the exact shape needed, and consume much less wax than round or square--that the base of onecell of three angles, would form a part of the base of three othercells on the opposite side of the comb--that each of the six sides ofone cell forms one side of six others around it--that these angles andthese only would answer their ends. 

"The bees appear, " says Reaumer, "to have a problem to solve, whichwould puzzle many a mathematician. A quantity of matter being given, itis required to form out of it cells, which shall be equal, and similar, and of a determinate size, but the largest possible with relation tothe quantity of matter employed, while they shall occupy the leastpossible space!"

How little does the epicure heed, when feasting on the fruits of theirindustry, that each morsel tasted must destroy the most perfectspecimens of workmanship! that in a moment he can demolish what it hastaken hours, yes days, perhaps weeks, of assiduous toil and labor, forthe bees to accomplish!

CHAPTER VI. 

PROPOLIS. 

WHAT USED FOR. 

This substance is first used to solder up all the cracks, flaws, andirregularities about the hive. A coat is then spread over the insidethroughout; when the hive is full, and many bees cluster outside, thelatter part of summer, a coat of it is also spread there. An additionalcoat it seems is annually applied, as old hives will be coated with athickness proportionate to its age, providing it has been occupied witha strong family. Huber has said it was also used to strengthen thecells when first made, by mixing it with the wax. If it was theirpractice at that time, the practice has been abandoned by our bees to agreat extent. I have made examinations when comb was first made, whenit contained eggs, and when it contained larvæ, and have never beenable to find anything other than pure wax composing it. After a youngbee has matured in a cell, the coating or cocoon that it leaves is of adark color, somewhat resembling it, and may have given rise to thesupposition. How the article is obtained, appears to be the mystery. This is a subject about which apiarians have failed to agree. A fewcontend that it is an elaborated substance; while others assert it tobe a resinous gum, exuding from certain trees, and collected by thebees like pollen. It differs materially from wax, being more tenacious, and when it gets a little age, much harder. 

IS IT AN ELABORATE OR NATURAL SUBSTANCE?

No modern observer has ever been able to detect the bees in the act ofgathering it. 

HUBER'S OPINION. 

Huber tells us, that "near the outlet of one of his hives, he placedsome of the branches of the poplar, which exuded a transparent juice, the color of garnet. Several workers were soon seen perched upon thesebranches, --having detached some of this resinous gum, they formed itinto pellets, and deposited them in the baskets of their thighs; thusloaded, they flew to the hive, where some of their fellow-laborersinstantly came to assist them in detaching this viscid substance fromtheir baskets. " Some of our modern apiarians have doubted this accountof Huber's. Now, in the absence of anything positive on this subject, Iam inclined to adopt this theory; that it is a resin or gum produced bytrees. (I cannot say that I am exactly satisfied with the story ofbringing the "branches and laying them by the hive, " &c. ) That beesgather it in its natural state, is in accordance with my ownobservation. 

FURTHER PROOF. 

Our first swarms that issue in May, or first of June, seldom use muchof the article pure for soldering and plastering; but instead, acomposition, the most of which is wax. I have noticed at this season, when old pieces of boards that had been used for hives, were left inthe sun, that this old propolis would become soft in the middle of theday. Here I have frequently seen the bees at work, packing it upontheir legs; it was detached in small particles, and the process ofpacking was seen distinctly, as the bee did not fly during theoperation, as in the case of packing pollen. It is asserted that whenbees need it they always have it, indicating that they can elaborate itlike wax. I can see no reason why they do not need it in June as muchas August; yet, in the latter month, they use more than a hundred timesthe quantity. At this time, they manifest no disposition to gather anyfrom the old boards, &c. It would seem they prefer the article new, which they now have in abundance. Boxes filled in June contain but verylittle, sometimes none. Why not, if they have enough of it? but whenfilled in August, they always have the corners, and sometimes the topand sides, lined with a good coat. Cracks, large enough for bees topass through, are sometimes completely filled with it. In this season, a little before sunset of some fair day, I have frequently seen thebees enter the hive with what I supposed to be the pure article ontheir legs, like pollen, except the surface, which would be smooth andglossy; the color much lighter than when it gets age. I have also seenthem through the glass inside, when they seemed unable to dislodge itthemselves, like pollen, and were continually running around amongthose engaged in soldering and plastering; when one required a little, it seized hold of the pellet with its teeth or forceps, and detached aportion. The whole lump will not cleave off at once; but firmly adheresto the leg; from its tenacity, perhaps a string an inch long will beformed in separating, the piece obtained is immediately applied totheir work, and the bee is ready to supply another with a portion; itdoubtless gets rid of its load in this way; it is difficult to watch ittill it is freed from the whole, as it is soon lost among its fellows. Now if this substance is not found in its natural state, how does ithappen that they pack it on their legs just as they do when getting itfrom a board of an old hive, or pollen, when collected? They never takethe trouble to pack the wax there, when elaborated. Do not thesecircumstances strongly favor the idea of its being a vegetablesubstance? Perhaps the reason of its being collected at this season ingreater abundance, may be found in the fact, that the buds of trees andshrubs are now generally formed. Many kinds are protected from rain andfrost, by a kind of gum or resinous coating. It may be found in manyspecies of Populus, particularly the balsam poplar, (_PopulusBalsamifera_) and the Balm of Gilead, (_Populus Candicans_). By boilingthe buds of these trees, an aromatic resin or gum may be obtained, (used sometimes for making salve;) the odor is very similar to thatemitted by propolis, when first gathered by the bees, or by heating itafterwards. In the absence of facts, we are apt to substitute theory. This appears to me to be very plausible. Yet I am ready to yield it assoon as facts decide differently. Perhaps not one bee in a thousand isengaged in collecting this substance--there being so few may be onereason why they are not often detected, yet few as they are, a few ofus should set about close observation; something certain might decide. Apiarian science is sadly neglected; a large amount of error is mixedup with truth, that patient, scrutinizing investigation must separate. 

REMARKS. 

I feel anxious to get to the practical part of this work, which I hopewill interest some readers who care but little about the naturalhistory. I shall begin with spring, and will now endeavor to mix moreof the practical with it, as we proceed to the end of the year. Inorder to illustrate some points of practice, I may have occasion torepeat some things already mentioned. 

CHAPTER VII. 

THE APIARY. 

ITS LOCATION. 

In the location of the apiary, one important consideration is, that itis convenient to watch in the swarming season; that the bees may beseen at any time from a door or window, when a swarm rises, without thetrouble of taking many steps to accomplish it; because if much troubleis to be taken, it is too often neglected. Also, if possible, the hivesshould stand where the wind will have but little effect, especiallyfrom the northwest. If no hills or building offer a protection, aclose, high board fence should be put up for the purpose. It is economyto do it--bees enough may be saved to pay the expense. During the firstspring months, the stocks contain fewer bees than at any other season. It is then that a numerous family is important, for the purpose ofcreating animal heat to rear the brood, if for nothing else. One bee isof more consequence now than a half dozen in midsummer. When the hivestands in a bleak place, the bees returning with heavy loads, in a highwind, are frequently unable to strike the hive, and are blown to theground; become chilled, and die. A chilly south wind is equally fatal, but not so frequent. When protected from winds, the hives may front anypoint you choose; east or south is generally preferred. A location nearponds, lakes, large rivers, &c. , will be attended with some loss. Hardwinds will fatigue the bees when on the wing, often causing them toalight in the water; where it is impossible to rise again until waftedashore, and then, unless in very warm weather, they are so chilled asto be past the effort. I do not mention this to discourage any one fromkeeping them, when so situated, because some few must keep them thus ornot at all. I am so situated myself. There is a pond of four acres, some twelve rods off. In spring, during high winds, a great many may befound drowned, and driven on shore. Although we cannot miss so few froma stock, it is nevertheless a loss as far as it goes. 

DECIDE EARLY. 

Whatever location is chosen, it should be decided upon as early in thespring as possible; because, when the chilling winds of winter haveceased for a day, and the sun, unobstructed, is sending his first warmrays to a frozen earth, the bees that have been inactive for months, feel the cheering influence, and come forth to enjoy the balmy air. Asthey come from their door, they pause a moment to rub their eyes, whichhave long been obscured in darkness. 

BEES MARK THEIR LOCATION ON LEAVING THE HIVE. 

They rise on the wing, but do not leave in a direct line, butimmediately turn their heads towards the entrance of their tenement, describing a circle of only a few inches at first, but enlarge as theyrecede, until an area of several rods have been _viewed and marked_. 

CHANGING STAND ATTENDED WITH LOSS. 

After a few excursions, when surrounding objects have become familiar, this precaution is not taken, and they leave in a direct line for theirdestination, and return by their way-marks without difficulty. Man withhis reason is guided on the same principles. There are a great manypeople who suppose the bee knows its hive by a kind of instinct, or isattracted towards it, like the steel to the magnet. At least, they actas if they did; as they often move their bees a few rods, or feet, after the location is thus marked, and what is the consequence? Thestocks are materially injured by loss of bees, and sometimes entirelyruined. Let us trace the cause. As I remarked, the bees have marked thelocation. They leave the hive without any precaution, as surroundingobjects are familiar. They return to their old stand and find no home. If there is more than one stock, and the removal has been from four totwenty feet, some of the bees may find a hive, but just as liable toenter the wrong one as the right. Probably they would not go overtwenty feet, and very likely not that, unless the new situation wasvery conspicuous. If a person had but one stock, very likely the losswould be less, as every bee finding a hive, would be sure to be home, and none killed, as is generally the case when a few enter a strangehive. 

CAN BE TAKEN SOME DISTANCE. 

When bees are taken beyond their knowledge of country, some two milesor more, the case seems to be somewhat different, but not alwayswithout loss, especially if many hives are set too close. They leavethe hive of course without knowing that the situation has been changed;perhaps get a few feet before strange objects warn them of the fact. When they return, the immediate vicinity is strange, and they oftenenter their neighbors' domicil. 

DANGER OF SETTING STOCKS TOO CLOSE. 

A case in point occurred in the spring of '49. I sold over twentystocks to one person. He had constructed a bee-house, and hisarrangement brought the hives within four inches of each other. Theresult was, he entirely lost several stocks; some of them were thebest; others were materially injured, yet he had a few made better bythe addition of bees from other hives; (sometimes a stock will allowstrange bees to unite with them, but it is seldom, unless a largenumber enters--it is safest to keep each family by itself, underordinary circumstances). These stocks, before they were moved, had beencollecting pollen, and had their location well marked. Had they beenplaced six feet apart, instead of four inches, he probably would nothave lost any, or even two feet might have saved them. I have oftenmoved them at this season, and placed them at three feet distance, andhad no bad results. 

Facts like the foregoing, satisfied me long since that stocks shouldoccupy their situation for the summer, as early as possible in thespring, at least before they mark the location; or if they must bemoved after that, let it be nothing short of a mile and a half, andplenty of room between the hives. 

SPACE BETWEEN HIVES. 

As regards the distance between hives generally, I would say let it beas great as convenience will allow. Want of room makes it necessarysometimes to set them close; where such necessity exists, if the hiveswere dissimilar in color, some dark, others light, alternately, itwould greatly assist the bees in knowing their own hive. But it shouldbe borne in mind, that whenever economy of space dictates less than twofeet, there are often bees enough lost by entering the wrong hive, which, if saved, would pay the rent of a small addition to a garden, orbee-yard. I have several other reasons to offer for giving plenty ofroom between hives, which will be mentioned hereafter. 

SMALL MATTERS. 

The reader who is accustomed to doing things on gigantic principles, will consider this long "yarn" about saving a few bees in spring, arather small affair, and so it is; yet small matters must be attendedto if we succeed; "a small leak will sink a ship. " A grain of wheat isa small matter; 'tis only in the aggregate that its importance ismanifest. The bee is small, the load of honey brought home by it isstill less, and the quantity secreted in the nectary of each flower, yet _more minute_. The patient bee visits each, and obtains but a tinymorsel; by perseverance a load is obtained, and deposited in the hive;it is only by the accumulation of such loads that we find an objectworthy our notice: here is a lesson; look to little things, and themanner in which they are multiplied, and preserved. It is much betterto save our bees than waste them, and wait for others to be raised; "apenny saved is worth two-pence earned. " If a stock is lost by smallmeans, a corresponding effort is only necessary to save it. Thistrifling care is sometimes neglected through indolence. But I hope forbetter things generally; I am willing to believe it is thoroughignorance, not knowing what kind of care is necessary--how, when, andwhere to bestow it. This is what now appears to be my duty to tell. Youwill now sufficiently understand the cause of loss on this point;therefore, let it be a rule to have all ready in spring, before thebees leave their hives--the stands, bee-house, etc. , and not changethem. 

ECONOMY. 

If we keep bees for ornament, it would be well to build a bee-house, paint the hives, &c. ; but as I expect the majority of readers will beinterested in the profit of the thing, I will say that the bees willnot pay a cent towards extra expenses; they will not do a whit morelabor in a painted house, than if it was thatched with straw. Whenprofit is the only object, economy would dictate that labor shall bebestowed only where there will be a remuneration. 

CHEAP ARRANGEMENT OF STANDS. 

So many kinds of bee-houses and stands have been recommended--all sodifferent from what I prefer, that I perhaps ought to feel somehesitancy in offering one so cheap and simple; but as profit is myobject, I shall offer no other apology. I have fifteen years'experience to prove its efficacy, and have no fears on this score inrecommending it. I make stands in this way: a board about fifteeninches wide is cut off two feet long; a piece of chestnut or otherwood, two inches square, is nailed on each end; this raises the boardjust two inches from the earth, and will project in front of the hivesome ten inches, making it admirably convenient for the bees to alightbefore entering the hive, (when the grass and weeds are kept down, which is but little trouble). A separate piece for each hive is betterthan to have several on a bench together, as there can then be nocommunication by bees running to and fro. Also we are apt to give moreroom between them; and a board or plank will make a stand for as manystocks when cut in pieces, as if left whole; (and it ought to makemore). 

CANAL BOTTOM-BOARD DISCARDED. 

I used what is termed a canal bottom-board, until I found out it didnot pay expense, and have now discarded it, and succeed just as well. It is generally recommended as a preventive of robberies, and keepingout the moth. It may prevent one hive in fifty from being robbed; butas for keeping out the moth, it is about as good an assistant for it ascan be contrived. It is a place of great convenience for the worms tospin their cocoons, and some ingenuity of the apiarian is requisite toget at them. 

SOME ADVANTAGE IN BEING NEAR THE EARTH. 

I am aware that I go counter to most apiarians, in recommending thestands so near the earth; less than two or three feet between the beesand the earth, it is said, will not answer any way. Mr. Miner is verypositive on this point, in his Manual. I ventured to suggest to him, that there was more against it in theory, than in practice, and gavehim my experience. In less than two years from that time I visited him, and found his bees close to the earth. Experience is worth a dozentheories; in fact, it is the only test to be depended upon. I shall noturge the adoption of any rule, that I have not proved by my ownpractice. The objection raised, is dampness from the earth, when toonear; I am unable to perceive the least bad effect. Now let us compareadvantages and disadvantages a little farther. One hive or a row ofhives suspended, or standing on a bench, two or three feet from theearth, when approached by the bees on a chilly afternoon, (and we havemany such in spring, ) towards evening, even if there is not much wind, they are very apt to miss the hive and bottom, and fall to the ground, so benumbed with cold, as to be unable to rise again, and by the nextmorning are "no use" whatever. On the other hand, if they are near theearth, with a board as described, there is no _possibility_ of theiralighting under the hive, and if they should come short, and get on theground, they can always creep, long after they are too cold to fly, andare able, and often do enter the hive without the necessity of usingtheir wings. 

Enough may be saved in one spring, from a few hives, in this way, tomake a good swarm, which taken from several is not perceived; yet, asmuch profit from them might be realized, as if they were a swarm bythemselves. A little contrivance is all that is needed to save them. Tosuch as _must_ and _will_ have them up away from the earth, I wouldsay, do suggest some plan to save this portion of your best and mostwilling servants; have an alighting board project in front of the hiveat least one foot, or a board long enough to reach from the bottom ofthe hive to the ground, that they may get on that, and crawl up to thehive. Do you want the inducement? Examine minutely the earth about yourhives, towards sunset, some day in April, when the day has been fair, with some wind, and chilly towards night, and you will be astonished atthe numbers that perish. Most of them will be loaded with pollen, proving them martyrs to their own industry and your negligence. When Isee a bench three feet high and no wider than the bottom of the hive, perhaps a little less, and no place for the bees to enter but at thebottom, and as many hives crowded on as it will hold, I no longerwonder that "bee-keeping is all in luck;" the wonder is how they keepthem at all. Yet it proves that, with proper management, it is not sovery precarious after all. 

The necessary protection from the weather, for stocks, is a subjectthat I have taken some pains to ascertain; the result has been, thatthe cheapest covering is just as good as any; something to keep therain and rays of the sun from the top, is all sufficient. Covers foreach hive, like the bottom-board, should be separate, and some largerthan the top. 

UTILITY OF BEE-HOUSES DOUBTED. 

I have used bee-houses, but they will not pay, and are also discarded. They are objectionable on account of preventing a free circulation ofair; also, it is difficult to construct them, so that the sun maystrike the hives both in the morning and afternoon; which in spring isvery essential. If they front the south, the middle of the day is theonly time when the sun can reach all the hives at once; this is justwhen they need it least; and in hot weather, sometimes injurious bymelting the combs. But when the hives stand far enough apart, on myplan, it is very easily arranged to have the sun strike the hive in themorning and afternoon, and shaded from ten o'clock, till two or three, in hot weather. 

Notwithstanding our prodigality in building a splendid bee-house, wethink of economy when we come to put our hives in, and get them _tooclose_. "Can't afford to build a house, and give them so much room, nohow. "

CHAPTER VIII. 

ROBBERIES. 

Robbing is another source of occasional loss to the apiarian. It isfrequent in spring, and at any time in warm weather when honey isscarce. It is very annoying, and sometimes gets neighbors incontention, when perhaps neither is to blame, farther than ignorance ofthe matter. 

NOT PROPERLY UNDERSTOOD. 

A person keeping many hives must expect to be accountable for alllosses in his neighborhood, whether they are lost by mismanagement orwant of management. Many people suppose, if one person has but onestock, and another has ten, that the ten will combine for plunderingthe one. There are no facts, showing any communication betweendifferent families of the same apiary, that I can discover. It is true, when one family finds another weak and defenceless, possessingtreasure, they have no conscientious scruples about carrying off thelast particle. The hurry and bustle attending it seldom escape thenotice of the other families; and when one hive has been robbed in anapiary, perhaps two-thirds of the other families, sometimes all, haveparticipated in the plunder. One family, if it be large, is just aslikely, and more so, to find a weak one among the ten, and commenceplundering, as the other way. 

IMPROPER REMEDIES. 

Notwithstanding it is common to hear remarks like this, "I had a_first-rate_ hive of bees, " (when the fact was he had not lookedparticularly at his bees for a month, to know whether it was so or not, and if he had, very likely would not know, ) "and Mr. A. 's bees began torob them. I tried every thing to stop it; I moved them around inseveral places to prevent their finding the hive. It did no good; thefirst I knew they were all gone--bees, honey, and all! The bees alljoined the robbers. " Now the fact is, that not one _good_ stock of beesin fifty, will ever be robbed, if let alone; that is, if the entranceis properly protected. This moving the hive was enough to ruin anystock; bees were lost at every change, until nothing was left but honeyto tempt the robbers; whereas, if left on its stand, it might haveescaped. 

A great many remedies have been given me gratis, which, had one-halfbeen followed, would have ruined them. The fact is, with many people, the remedies are often the cause of the disease. The most fatal is, tomove them a few rods; another, to close the hive entirely, (very liableto smother them); or, break out some comb and set the honey to running. There are some charms that affect them but little any way. Probablythere are but few bee-keepers able to tell at once, _when bees arebeing robbed_. It requires the closest scrutinizing observation todecide. 

DIFFICULTY IN DECIDING. 

There is nothing about the apiary more difficult to determine, nothingmore likely than to be deceived. It is generally supposed, when anumber are outside fighting, that it is conclusive that they are alsorobbing, which is seldom the case. On the contrary, a show ofresistance indicates a strong colony, and that they are disposed todefend their treasures. I no longer have any fears for a stock that hascourage to repel an attack. 

WEAK FAMILIES IN MOST DANGER. 

It is weak families, that show no resistance, where we find the mostdanger. In seasons of scarcity, all _good_ stocks maintain or keepsentinels about the entrance, whose duty it appears to be to examineevery bee that attempts to enter. If it is a member of the community, it is allowed to pass; if not, it is examined on the spot. It wouldseem that a password was requisite for admittance, for no sooner does astranger-bee endeavor to get in, than it is known. If without necessarycredentials, there is evidence enough against it. Each bee is aqualified jurist, judge, and executioner. There is no delay; no waitingfor witnesses for defence. The more a bee attempts to escape, the morelikely it will be to receive a sting, unless it succeeds. How strangebees are known, would be nothing but theory, if I should attempt toexplain. Let it suffice that they are known. 

THEIR BATTLES. 

I will here describe some of their battles. I have in the springfrequently seen the whole front side of the hive covered with thecombatants, (but for such hives I have no fears; they are able todefend themselves. ) Several will surround one stranger; one or two willbite its legs, another the wings; another will make a feint ofstinging, while another is ready to take what honey it has, whenworried sufficient to make it willing. It is sometimes allowed to goafter yielding all its honey, but at others, is dispatched with asting, which is almost instantly fatal. A bee is killed sooner by asting, than by any other means, except crushing. Sometimes a leg willtremble, for a minute; the legs are drawn close to the body; theabdomen contracts to half its usual size, unless filled with honey. Ihave known a pint accidentally to enter a neighboring stock, and bekilled in five minutes. The only places the sting will penetrate a beeare the joints of the abdomen, legs, the neck, &c. I have occasionallyseen one bee drag about the dead body of its victim, being unable towithdraw its sting from a joint in the leg. During the fight, if it beto keep off those in search of plunder, a few bees may be seen buzzingaround in search of a place unguarded to enter the hive. If such isfound, it alights and enters in a moment. At other times, when about toenter, it meets a soldier on duty, and is on the wing again in aninstant. But another time it may be more unfortunate, and be nabbed bya policeman, when it must either break away, or suffer the penalty ofinsect justice, which is generally of the utmost severity. 

BAD POLICY TO RAISE THE HIVES. 

A great many apiarians raise their hives an inch from the board earlyin spring. They seem to disregard the chance it gives robbers to enteron every side. It is like setting the door of your own house open, totempt the thief, and then complain of depravity. 

Let it be understood, then, that all good stocks, under ordinarycircumstances, will take care of themselves. Nature has provided meansof defence, with instinct to direct its use. Non-resistance may do forhighly cultivated intellect in man, but not here. 

INDICATIONS OF ROBBERS. 

We will now notice the appearance about a weak hive that makes noresistance, and show the result to be a total loss of the stock, without timely interference. Each robber, when leaving the hive, instead of flying in a direct line to its home, will turn its headtowards the hive to mark the spot, that it may know where to return foranother load, in the same manner that they do when leaving their hivein the spring. The first time the young bees leave home, they marktheir location, by the same process. A few of these begin to hatch fromthe cells very early; in all good stocks, often before the weather iswarm enough for _any to leave the hive_. Consequently, it cannot be tooearly for them at any time in spring. These young bees, about themiddle of each fair day, or a little later, take a turn of flying outvery thickly for a short time. The inexperienced observer would be verylikely to suppose such stock very prosperous, from the number ofinhabitants in motion. This unusual bustle is the first indication offoul play, and should be regarded with suspicion; yet it is notconclusive. 

A DUTY. 

It is the duty of every bee-keeper, who expects to succeed, to knowwhich his weak stocks are; an examination some cool morning, can bemade by turning the hive bottom up, and letting the sun among thecombs. The number of inhabitants in them is easily seen. When weak, close the entrance, till there is just room for one bee to pass atonce. The first real pleasant days, at any time before honey isobtained plentifully, a little after noon, look out for them tocommence robbing. Whenever a weak stock is taken with what appears tobe a fit of unusual industry, it is quite certain they are eitherrobbers or young bees; the difficulty is to decide which. Their motionsare alike, but there is a little difference in color--the young beesare a shade lighter; the abdomen of the robbers, when filled withhoney, is a little larger. It requires close, patient observation, todecide this point, and when you have watched close enough to detectthis difference, you can decide without trouble. 

A TEST. 

But while you are learning this nice distinction, your bees may beruined. We will, therefore, give some other means of protection. 

Bees, when they have been stealing a sack of honey from a neighboringhive, will generally run several inches from the entrance beforeflying: kill some of these; if filled with honey, they are robbers;because it is very suspicious, to be filled with honey when leaving thehive; or sprinkle some flour on them as they come out, and have someone watch by the others to see if they enter. Another way is lesstrouble, but will take longer, before they are checked, if robbing. Visit them again in the course of half an hour or more, after the youngbees have had time to get back, (if it should happen to be them); butif the bustle continues or increases, it is time to interfere. When theentrance has been contracted as directed, close it entirely till nearsunset. When it has been left without, it should now be done, (givingroom for only one bee at a time). This will allow all that belong tothe hive to get in, and others to get out, and materially retard theprogress of the robbers. 

ROBBING USUALLY COMMENCES ON A WARM DAY. 

Unless it should be cool, they will continue their operations tillevening. Very often some are unable to get home in the dark, and arelost. This, by the way, is another good test of robbing. Visit thehives every warm evening. They _commence_ depredations on the warmestdays; seldom otherwise. If any are at work when honest laborers shouldbe at home, they need attention. 

REMEDIES. 

As for remedies, I have tried several. The least trouble is to removethe weak hive in the morning to the cellar, or some dark, cool place, for a few days, until at least two or three warm days have passed, thatthey may abandon the search. The robbers will then probably attack thestock on the next stand. Contract the entrance of this in accordancewith the number of bees that are to pass. If strong, no danger need beapprehended; they may fight, and even kill some; perhaps a littlechastisement is necessary, to a sense of their duty. 

COMMON OPINION. 

There is an opinion prevalent that robbers often go to a neighboringstock, kill off the bees first, and then take possession of thetreasures. To corroborate this matter, I have never yet discovered onefact, although I have watched very closely. Whenever bees have had alltheir stores taken, at a period when nothing was to be had in theflowers, it is evident they must starve, and last but a day or twobefore they are gone. This would naturally give rise to the suppositionthat they were either killed, or gone with the robbers. 

A CASE IN POINT. 

I have a case in point. Having been from home a couple of days, Ifound, on my return, a swarm of medium strength, that had beencarelessly exposed, had been plundered of about fifteen pounds ofhoney, every particle they had. [13] About the usual number of bees wereamong the combs, to all appearance, very disconsolate. I at onceremoved them to the cellar, and fed them for a few days. The other beesgave over looking for more plunder, in the meantime. It was thenreturned to the stand, entrance nearly closed, as directed, &c. In ashort time it made a valuable stock; but had I left it twenty-fourhours longer, it probably would not have been worth a straw. 

 [13] It occurred the last of July. 

FURTHER DIRECTIONS. 

When a stock has been removed, if the next stand contains a weak, instead of a strong one, it is best to take that in also; to bereturned to the stand as soon as the robbers will allow it. If a secondattack is made, put them in again, or if practicable, remove them amile or two out of their knowledge of country; they would then lose notime from labor. Where but few stocks are kept, and not more than oneor two stocks are engaged, sprinkle a little flour on them as theyleave, to ascertain which the robbers are; then reverse the hives, putting the weak one in the place of the strong, and the strong one inthe place of the weak one. The weak stock will generally become thestrongest, and put a stop to their operations; but this method is oftenimpracticable in a large apiary; because several stocks are usuallyengaged, very soon after one commences, and a dozen may be robbing one. Another method is, when you are _sure_ a stock is being robbed, take atime when there are as many plunderers inside as you can get, and closethe hive at once, (wire-cloth, or something to admit air, and at thesame time confine the bees, is necessary;) carry in, as beforedirected, for two or three days, when they may be set out. The strangebees thus enclosed will join the weak family, and will be as eager todefend what is now _their_ treasure, as they were before to carry itoff. This principle of forgetting home and uniting with others, after alapse of a few days, (writers say, twenty-four hours is sufficient forthem to forget home) can be recommended in this case. It succeeds aboutfour times in five, when a proper number is enclosed. Weak stocks arestrengthened in this way very easily; and the bees being taken from anumber of hives, are hardly missed. The difficulty is, to know whenthere are enough to be about equal, to what belongs to the weak stock;if too few are enclosed, they are surely destroyed. 

COMMON CAUSE OF COMMENCING. 

After all, bees being robbed is like being destroyed by worms; a kindof secondary matter; that is, not one strong stock in a hundred willever be attacked and plundered on the first onset. Bees must be firsttempted, and rendered furious by a weak hive; a dish of refuse honeyset near them is sometimes sufficient to set them at work, also wherethey have been fed and not had a full supply. After they have oncecommenced, it takes an astonishing quantity to satiate their appetite. They seem to be perfectly intoxicated, and regardless of danger; theyventure on to certain destruction! I have known a few instances wheregood stocks by this means were reduced, until they in turn fell a preyto others. I have for several years kept about one hundred stocks awayfrom home, where I could not see them much, to prevent robbing. Yet Inever lost a stock by this cause. I simply keep the entrance closed, except a passage for the bees at work during spring. It is true I havelost a few stocks, when the other bees took the honey, but they wouldhave been lost any way. 

SPRING THE WORST TIME. 

As I before remarked in the commencement of this chapter, bees willplunder and fight at any time through the summer, when honey cannot becollected; but _spring_ is the only time that such desperate andpersevering efforts are made to obtain it. It is the only time theapiarian can be excused for having his hives plundered, or letting themstand in a situation for it. We then often have families reduced inwinter and spring, from various causes, and when protected through thisseason, generally make good stocks. It is then we wish them to formsteady, industrious habits, and not live by plunder. Prevention isbetter than cure; evil propensities should be checked in the beginning. The bee, like man, when this disposition has been indulged for a time, it is hard breaking the habit; a severe chastisement is the only cure;they too go on the principle of much wanting more. 

NO NECESSITY TO HAVE THE BEES PLUNDERED IN THE FALL. 

The apiarian having his bees plundered in the fall, is not fit to havecharge of them; their efforts are seldom as strong as in spring, (unless there is a general scarcity, ) the weak hives are usually bettersupplied with bees, and consequently a less number is exposed; but yet, when there are some very weak families, these should be taken away assoon as the flowers fail, or strengthened with bees from another hive. Particulars in fall management. 

I have sometimes made my swarms equal, early in spring, by thefollowing method, and I have also failed. Bees, when wintered togetherin a room, will seldom quarrel when first set out. When one stock hasan over supply of bees, and another a very few, the next day or twoafter being out, I change the weak one to the stand of the strong one, (as mentioned a page or two back, ) and all bees that have marked thelocation return to that place. The failure is, when too many leave thestrong stock, making that the weak one, when nothing is gained. If itcould be done when they had been out of the house just long enough forthe proper number to have marked the location, success would be quitecertain. But before an exchange of this kind is made, it would be well, if possible; to ascertain what is the cause of a stock being weak; ifit is from the loss of a queen, (which is sometimes the case, ) we onlymake the matter worse by the operation. To ascertain whether the queenbe present, do not depend on the bees carrying in pollen; as mostwriters assert they will not, when the queen is gone; because I have_known_ them do it so many times without, that I can assure the readeragain, it is no test whatever. The test given in chapter III. Page 73, is always certain. 

CHAPTER IX. 

FEEDING. 

SHOULD BE A LAST RESORT. 

Feeding bees in spring is sometimes absolutely necessary; but inordinary seasons and circumstances, it is somewhat doubtful if it isthe surest road to success, for the apiarian to attempt wintering anystock so poorly supplied with honey, that he feels satisfied will needfeeding in the spring or before. I will recommend in another place (infall management) what I consider a better disposition of such lightfamilies. But as some stocks are either robbed, or from some othercause, consume more honey than we expect, a little trouble and care maysave a loss. Also bees are often fed at this season to promote earlyswarming, and filling boxes with surplus honey. 

CARE NEEDED. 

Considerable care is requisite, and but few know how to manage itproperly. Honey fed to bees, is almost certain to get up quarrels amongthem. Sometimes strong stocks scent the honey given to weak ones, andcarry it off as fast as supplied. 

APPARENT CONTRADICTION WHEN FEEDING CAUSING STARVATION. 

It is possible that feeding a stock of bees in spring, may cause themto starve! whereas, if let alone, they might escape. Notwithstandingthis looks like a contradiction, I think it appears reasonable. Whenever the supply of honey is short, probably not more than one eggin twenty which the queen deposits, will be matured--their means notallowing the young brood to be fed. This appears from the fact thatseveral eggs may be found in one cell. I transferred over twenty stocksin March, 1852--most of the cells occupied with eggs contained aplurality; two, three, and even four, were found in one cell; it isevident that all could not be perfected. Also, the fact of these eggsbeing at this season on the bottom-board. Now suppose you give such astock two or three pounds of honey, and they are encouraged to feed alarge brood, and your supply fails before they are half grown. What arethey to do? destroy the brood and lose all they have fed, or draw ontheir old stores for a small quantity to help them in this emergency, and trust to chance for themselves? The latter alternative willprobably be adopted, and then, without a timely intervention offavorable weather, the bees starve. The same effect is sometimesproduced by the changes of the weather; a week or two may be very fineand bring out the flowers in abundance--a sudden change, perhaps frost, may destroy all for a few days. This makes it necessary to useconsiderable vigilance, as these turns of cold weather (when theyoccur) make it unsafe, till white clover appears; but if the spring isfavorable, there is but little danger, unless they are robbed. If youtake the necessary care about worms, you will know which are light, andwhich heavy, unless your hives are suspended; even then, it is a dutyto know their true condition, in this respect. This is anotheradvantage of the _simple_ hive; merely raising one edge to destroyworms, tells you something about the honey on hand. To be very exact, the hive should be weighed when ready for the bees, and the weightmarked on it; by weighing at any time after, tells at once within a fewpounds of what honey there is on hand. Some allowance must be made forthe age of the combs, the quantity of brood, &c. It is wrong to beginto feed without being prepared to continue to do so, as the supply mustbe kept up till honey is abundant. 

HOW LONG IT WILL DO TO WAIT BEFORE FEEDING. 

If it is wished to wait as long as possible, and not lose the bees, atest will be necessary to decide how long it will do to delay feeding. In this case, _strict attention will be necessary; they will needexamination every morning_. If a light tap on the hive is answered b; abrisk, lively buzzing, they are not suffering yet; but if no answer isreturned to your inquiry, it indicates a want of strength. Extremedestitution destroys all disposition to repel an attack. Sometimes apart of the bees will be too weak to remain among the combs, and willbe lying on the bottom, and some few outside. If the weather is cool, they appear to be lifeless; yet they can be revived, and now _must hefed_. 

DIRECTIONS FOR FEEDING. 

Those among the combs may be able to move, though feebly. When this isthe condition of things, invert the hive, gather up all the scatteredbees, and put them in. Get some honey; if candied, heat it till itdissolves; comb honey is not so good without mashing; if no honey is tobe had, brown sugar may be taken instead; add a little water, and boilit till about the consistence of honey, and skim it; when cool enough, pour a quantity among the combs, directly on the bees; cover the bottomof the hive with a cloth, securing it firmly, and bring to the fire towarm up. In two or three hours they will be revived, and may bereturned to the stand, providing the honey given is all taken up; on noaccount let any honey run out around the bottom. The necessity of adaily visit to the hives is apparent from the fact, that if left overfor one day, in the situation just described, it will be too late torevive them. At night, if you have a box cover, such as I haverecommended, you may open the holes in the top of the hive; fill asmall baking dish with honey or syrup, and set it on the top; put insome shavings to keep the bees from drowning, or a float may be used ifyou choose; it should be made of some very light wood, very thin, andfull of holes or narrow channels, made with a saw. At the commencementof feeding, a few drops should be scattered on the top of the hive andtrailed to the side of the dish, to teach them the way; after feeding afew times, they will know the road. When the weather is warm enough forthem to take it during the night, it is best to feed at evening, --fromfour to eight ounces daily, is sufficient. If the family is very small, what honey is left in the morning may attract other bees; it is thenbest to take it out, or carry the hive in the house to a dark room, sufficiently warm, and feed them enough to last several days, and thenreturn them to the stand; keeping a good lookout that they are notplundered, and again in a starving condition, until flowers producehoney sufficient. 

WHOLE FAMILIES MAY DESERT THE HIVE. 

When you have the means to keep up a supply of food, and time requisiteto make feeding secure, perhaps it would not be advisable to wait tillthe last extremity before feeding, as a small family will sometimesentirely desert the hive, when destitute, if it occurs before they havemuch brood. In these cases, they issue precisely as a swarm; afterflying a long time, they either return, or unite with some other stock. If they return, they need attention immediately. You may be certainthere is something wrong, let the desertion take place when it may; inspring it may be destitution, or mouldy combs; at other times thepresence of worms, diseased brood, &c. By whatever cause it isproduced, ascertain it, and apply the remedy. 

OBJECTIONS TO GENERAL FEEDING. 

I have known it recommended, and practised by some apiarians, to feedbees all at once in the open air, in a large trough; but whoeverrealizes much profit by this method, will be very fortunate, as everystock in the neighborhood will soon scent it out, and carry off a goodshare, and nearly every stock at home will be in contention, and greatnumbers killed; the moment the honey is out, their attention isdirected to other stocks. Another objection to this general feeding is, that some stocks are not necessitated at all, while others need it; butthe strongest stock is pretty sure to get the most. NOW, as I cannotafford to divide with my neighbors in this way of feeding, and Isuppose but few will be found who are willing to do it, I will give mymethod, which, when once arranged, is but little trouble. 

ARRANGEMENT FOR FEEDING. 

I got a tinman to make some dishes, two inches deep, 10×12 inchessquare, and perpendicular sides. A board was then got out, fifteeninches wide, and two feet long; two inches from one end, a hole is cutout the longest way, just the size of the dish, so that it will set injust even with the upper side of the board; a good fit should be made, so that no bees can get in around it; cleats should be nailed on theunder side of the board, some over an inch thick, to prevent crowdingthe dish out. This is to go directly under the hive, but it is notready yet, because if such dish is filled with honey under a hive, thebees would drown; if a float is put on to keep them out, it will settleto the bottom when the honey is out, and the bees cannot creep up thesides of tin very easily. Another thing, there is nothing to preventthe bees from making their combs to the bottom of this dish, two inchesbelow the bottom of the hive; these things are to be prevented. Get outtwo pieces of half-inch board, ten inches long, one to be two incheswide, the other one and a half inches. With a coarse or thick saw, cutchannels in the side of the strips, one-fourth inch deep, three-eighthsor half an inch apart, crosswise the whole length. You will then want anumber corresponding to the places sawed, of very thin shingles, orstrips, say one-eighth of an inch thick, and one and three-fourthswide, and nine and a half long; these are to stand edgewise in thedish; the first two are to hold them in the channels at the ends. Thenarrow one needs a block one-half inch square, nailed on each end; onthe edge, a strip of wire cloth is then nailed on, making the wholewidth just two inches. This is now put in the dish, wire cloth at thebottom, two inches from one end; two pins to act as braces will keep itthere; the other wide one is placed against the other end, and presseddown even with the top of the dish. The thin pieces are now slippedinto the channels even with the top; it is now ready to go under thehive to be fed. Let the two-inch space project out on the back side ofthe hive. A narrow board should be provided, some more than two incheswide, to cover it. Let the hive stand close on this board; the hole inthe side is sufficient for the passage of bees at work, till very hotweather. Thus you see that the hive covers all but the space behind, which the board covers, and not a strange bee can get at the honey, without entering the hole at the side, and passing through among thebees belonging to the hive, which they will not often do; if the familyis numerous, it makes it as safe as feeding on the top; with thisadvantage, there are no bees in the way to interfere while pouring inthe food. When the bees are to be fed, raise the board at the back andpour in the honey; the wire-cloth in the bottom prevents all bees fromentering this space, at the same time will let the honey pass throughdirectly under the bees, which will take it up quicker than from anyother place that I can put it; they will work all night even when theweather is quite cool. This board and feeder can be taken out when donefeeding, and put away till wanted again; if left under through thesummer, it affords the worms a place rather too convenient to spintheir cocoons, where they are not easily destroyed. 

FEEDING TO INDUCE EARLY SWARMS. 

If the object in feeding is to induce early swarms, of course the beststocks should be chosen for the purpose; but some care is necessary notto give too much, and fill the combs with honey, that ought to befilled with brood, and thereby defeat your object; one pound per day isenough, perhaps too much. The quantity obtained from flowers is apartial guide; when plenty, feed less; when scarce, more. Begin as soonas you can make them take it up in spring, and continue in accordancewith the weather, till white clover blossoms, or swarms issue. Anotherobject in feeding bees at this period, is to have the store combs allfilled with inferior honey, so that when clover appears, (which yieldsour best honey, ) there is no room except in the boxes to store it, which are now put on, and rapidly filled. When this last object isalone wished for, it is not much matter how much is given at a time, providing it is all taken up through the night; it will then take notime in day-light, when they might work on flowers; also, the beeswould have no trouble in repelling any attempt of others to get at it. 

WHAT MAY BE FED. 

Inferior honey may be used for this purpose; Southern or West India isgood, and costs but little. Even molasses sugar mixed with it will do;but they do not relish it so well when fed without the honey. I haveusually taken about equal quantities of each, adding a pint of water toten pounds of this mixture, and making it as hot as it will bearwithout boiling over, and skimming it. 

IS CANDIED HONEY INJURIOUS?

There has an idea been advanced, that candied honey is injurious tobees, even said to be fatal. I never could discover any thing further, than it was a perfect waste, while in this state. When boiled, and alittle water added, it appears to be just as good as any. Nearly everystock will have more or less of it on hand at this season; but as warmweather approaches, and the bees increase to warm the hive, it seems toget liquified, from this cause alone. The bees, when compelled to usehoney from these cells, thus candied, waste a large portion; a part isliquid, and the rest is grained like sugar, which may be seen on thebottom-board, as the bees work it out very often. Another object infeeding bees, is to give inferior honey, mixed with sugar and flavoredto suit the taste, to the bees, and let them store it in boxes formarket. Now, I have no faith in honey undergoing any chemical change inthe stomach of the bee, [14] and cannot recommend this as the honestcourse. Neither do I think it would be very profitable, feeding to thisextent, under any circumstances. I have a few times had some boxesnearly finished and fit for market at the end of the honey season; alittle more added would make them answer. I have then fed a few poundsof good honey, but always found that several pounds had to be given thebees to get one in the boxes. 

 [14] Mr. Gillman's patent for feeding bees, is based on the principle of a chemical change. It is said that the food he gives to the bees, when poured into the cells, becomes honey of the first quality. This appears extremely mysterious; for it is well understood that when a bee has filled its sack it will go to the hive, deposit its load, and return immediately for more; and will continue its labor throughout the day, or until the supply fails; each load occupying but few minutes. The time in going from the feeder to the hive is so short that a change so important is not at all probable. The nature of bees seems to be to _collect_ honey, not _make_ it; hence we find, when bees are gathering from clover, they store quite a different article than when from buckwheat, --or when we feed West India honey, in quantities sufficient to have it stored _pure_ in the boxes, we find that it has lost none of its bad taste in passing through the sacks of our northern bees. 

 It appears most probable that, if Southern honey and cheap sugar form the basis of his food, (which it is said to, ) that it is flavored with something to disguise the disagreeable qualities of the compound. Should this be the secret, it would seem like a waste to feed it to bees--a portion would be given to the brood, and possibly the old bees might not always refrain from sipping a little of the tempting nectar. Why not, when the compound was ready, --instead of wasting it by this process, --put it directly in market? Or, is it necessary to have it in the combs to help psychologize the consumer into the belief that it is honey of a pure quality?

CHAPTER X. 

DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. 

I shall not give a full history of the moth in this chapter, as springis not the time they are most destructive. It will be further noticedunder the head of Enemies of Bees. But as this is a duty belonging tospring, a partial history seems necessary. 

As soon as the bees commence their labors, the worms are generallyready to begin theirs. 

SOME IN THE BEST STOCKS. 

You will probably find some in your best stocks; but don't befrightened; this is not the season when they often destroy your stocks, yet they injure them some. 

HOW FOUND. 

In the morning, when cool, raise the hive, and you will find them onthe board. You must not suppose that these chaps are bred outside thehive, got their growth, and are now on their way among the bees, butthe reverse. They are _bred in the hive_, and most of them are on theway out, and this is the precise time to arrest them and bring them tojustice for their crimes. 

A TOOL FOR THEIR DESTRUCTION. 

I have used a simple tool, made in a few minutes, and very convenientin this business. Any one can make it. Get a piece of narrow hoop-iron, (steel would be better, ) three-fourth inch wide, five inches long;taper from one side three inches from the end to a point; then grindeach edge sharp; make three or four holes through the wide end, toadmit small nails through it in the handle, which should be about twofeet long and about half an inch square. Armed with this weapon, youcan proceed. Raise the hive on one edge, and with the point of yoursword you may pick a worm out of the closest corner, and easily scrapeall from under the hive with it. Now, _be sure and dispatch every one_;not that the "little victim" will itself, personally, do much mischief;but through its descendants the mischief is to be apprehended. Verylikely half of all you find will have finished their course ofdestruction, among the combs, and have voluntarily left them for aplace to spin their cocoons. They are worried by the bees, if they arenumerous, until satisfied that it is no safe place among them to make ashroud and remain helpless two or three weeks. Accordingly, when theyget their growth they leave, get on the board on the bottom, becomechilled and helpless in the morning, but again active by the middle ofthe day. Now, if they are merely thrown on the earth, a place therewill be selected, if no better is found, for transformation; and a mothperfected ten feet from the hive is just as capable of depositing fivehundred eggs in your hive, as if she had never left it. 

Several generations are matured in the course of one summer:consequently, one destroyed at this season, may prevent the existenceof thousands before the summer is over. 

This is another subject of theoretical reasoning, and imposition, (atleast in my opinion. ) I wish the reader to judge for himself; get ridof whims and prejudice, and look at the subject candidly and fair; andif there is no corroborative testimony comes up to confirm any positionthat I assume, I shall not complain if my assertions fare no betterthan some others. Only defer judgment till you _know_ for yourself. 

Bees have ever received my especial regard and attention; and myenthusiasm may blind my judgment. I may be prejudiced, but will not bewilfully wrong. I have found so many theories utterly false, whencarried out in practice, that I can depend on no one's hypothesis, however plausible, without facts in practice to support it. No oneshould be fully credited without a test. To return to our subject. 

MISTAKEN CONCLUSIONS. 

It is supposed by many, when these worms are found on the board, theyget there by accident, having dropped from the combs above. They seemnot to understand that the worm generally travels on safe principles;that is, he attaches a thread to whatever he travels over. To besatisfied on this point, I have many times carefully detached hisfoot-hold, when on the side of the hive or other place, where he wouldfall a few inches, and always found him with a thread fast at the placehe left, to enable him to regain his position if he chose. Is it notprobable, then, that whenever he leaves the combs for the bottom-board, he can readily ascend again? No doubt he often does, to be driven downagain by the bees. Now, what I wish to get at by all this preamble, issimply this: that all our trouble and worrying to prevent the wormsfrom again ascending to the combs--by wire hooks, wire pins, screws, nails, turned pins, clam-shells, blocks of wood, &c. , is perfectnonsense, when half or more of them would not harm the bees any more ifthey did, and might as well go there as any where else. Besides, theseuseless "fixins" are very often a positive injury to the bees. 

OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED BOTTOM-BOARD. 

Suppose, if you please, that the worm has no thread attached above, andyour board is far enough from the bottom of the hive to prevent hisreaching it. Of course, he can't get up; but how are your bees to doany better? The worm can reach as high as they can. The bee can fly up, you think; so it will, sometimes; but will try a dozen times first toget up without, and when it does, it is a very bad position to startfrom, being a smooth board. In hot weather it does better. Did you everwatch by a hive thus raised, in April or May, towards night, when itwas a little cool, and see the industrious little insects arrive with aload as heavy as they could possibly carry, all chilly, and nearly outof breath, scarcely able to reach home, and there witness their vainattempts to get among their fellows above them? If you never witnessedthis, I wish you would take some pains for it, and when you find themgiving up in despair, when too chilly to fly, and perishing after manyfruitless attempts for life, I think, if you possess sympathy, benevolence, or even selfishness, you will be induced to do as Idid--discard at once wire hooks and all else from under the hive in thespring, and give the bees, when they do get home with a load, undersuch circumstances, what they richly deserve, and that is, _protection_. 

ADVANTAGE OF THE HIVE CLOSE TO THE BOARD. 

An inch hole in the side of the hive, a few inches from the bottom, asa passage for the bees, is needed, as I shall recommend letting thehive close to the board; it is essential on account of robbing; also, it is necessary to confine as much as possible the animal heat, in mosthives, during the season the bees are engaged in rearing young brood;and warmth is necessary to hatch the eggs, and develop the larvæ; weall know that when the hive is close, less heat will pass off than ifraised an inch. 

OBJECTION ANSWERED. 

You object to this, and tell me, "the worms will get between the bottomof the hive and the board. " Well, I think they will, and what then? WhyI expect if you intend to succeed, that you will get them out, andcrush their heads; if you cannot give as much attention as this, betternot keep them, or let some one have the care of them that will. I am aswilling to find a worm under the edge of the hive, and dispatch it, asto have it creep into some place out of sight, and change to the moth. I once trimmed off the bottom of my hives to a thin edge, so they didnot have this place for their cocoons, but now prefer to have themsquare. _All profit_ is seldom obtained with anything. If you plant afield with corn, you do not expect that the whole work for the crop isfinished. Neither should you expect when you set up a stock of bees, that a full yield will be realized without something more. If you areremunerated by keeping the weeds from your corn, be assured it isequally profitable to weed out your bees. 

INSUFFICIENCY OF INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARD. 

Now do not be deceived in this matter, and through indolence be inducedto get those hives with descending bottom-boards, to throw out theworms as they fall, and hope by that means to get rid of the trouble;(I have already, in another chapter, expressed doubts of this). But wewill _now_ suppose such descending bottom-boards capable of throwingevery worm that touches it "heels over head" to the ground; what havewe gained? His neck is not broken, nor any other _bone_ of his body! Asif nothing extraordinary had happened, he quietly gathers himself up, and looks about for snug quarters; he cares not a fig for the hive now;he gormandized on the combs until satisfied, before he left them, andis glad to get away from the bees any how. A place large enough for acocoon is easily found, and when he again becomes desirous of visitingthe hives, it is not to satisfy his own wants, but to accommodate hisprogeny; he is then furnished with wings ample to carry him to anyheight that you choose to put your bees. 

A MOTH CAN GO WHERE BEES CAN. 

A hive that is proof against the moth, is yet to be constructed. Wefrequently hear of them, but when they come to be tested, somehow theseworms get where the bees are. When your hives become so full of bees, that they cover the board in a cool morning, the worms will be seldomfound there, except under the edge of the hive. 

TRAP TO CATCH WORMS. 

You may now raise it, but you may still catch the worms by laying underthe bees a narrow shingle, a stick of elder split in two lengthwise, and the pith scraped out, or anything else that will afford themprotection from the bees, and where they may spin their cocoons. Theseshould be removed every few days, and the worms destroyed, and the trapput back. Do not neglect it till they change to the moth, and you havenothing but to remove the empty cocoon. 

BOX FOR WREN. 

If you would take the trouble to put up a cage or two for the wren tonest in, he would be a valuable assistant in this department of yourlabor. He would be on the lookout when you were away, and many worms, while looking up a hiding-place in some corner, would be relieved fromall further trouble by being deposited in his crop. The cage for himneed not be more than four inches square; it may be fastened near aspossible to the bees; to a post, tree, or side of some building a fewfeet high. I have seen the skull of some animal (horse or ox) used, andis very convenient for them, the cavity for the brains being used forthe nest. A person once told me the wren would not build in one that hehad put up. On examination, the stake to support it was found driveninto the only entrance. I mention this to show how little some peopleunderstand what they do. It is sometimes well enough to know why athing is to be done, as to know it _must_ be done. I could tell you todo a great many things, but then you would like to know _why_, then_how_ to do it. Now if this prolixity is unnecessary for you, anothermay need it. You must remember I am endeavoring to teach some few tokeep bees, who are not over supplied with ingenuity. 

CHAPTER XI. 

PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 

Putting on boxes may be considered a duty intermediate between springand summer management. I cannot recommend putting them on as early asthe last of April, or first of May, in ordinary circumstances. It ispossible to find a case that it would be best. But before the hive isfull of bees it is generally useless, very likely a disadvantage, byallowing a portion of animal heat to escape that is needed in the hiveto mature the brood. Also, moisture may accumulate until the insidemoulds, &c. Some experience and judgment is necessary to know aboutwhat time boxes are needed. That boxes _are needed_ at the properseason, I think I shall not need an argument to convince any one, inthe present day. Bee-keepers have generally discarded the barbarouspractice of killing the bees to obtain the honey. Many of them havelearned that a good swarm will store sufficient honey for winter, besides several dollars worth as profit in boxes. 

ADVANTAGE OF THE PATENT VENDER. 

Here is where the patent vender has taken the advantage of our ignorance, by pretending that no other hive but _his ever obtained such quantities, or so pure in quality_. 

TIME OF PUTTING ON--RULE. 

It is probable a great many readers will need the necessary observationto tell precisely when the hive is full of honey; it may be full ofbees, and not of honey. And yet the only rule that I can give to begenerally applied, is, when the bees begin to be crowded out, but a dayor two before would be just the right time, that is, when they areobtaining honey--(for it should be remembered that they do not alwaysget honey when beginning to cluster out). This guide will do in placeof a better one, which close observation and experience only can give. By observing a glass hive attentively, in those cells that touch theglass on the edge of the combs, whenever honey is being deposited hereabundantly, it is quite evident that the flowers are yielding it justthen, and other stocks are obtaining it also. Now is the time, if anycluster out, to put on the boxes. When boxes are made as I haverecommended, that is, the size containing 360 solid inches, it isadvisable to put on only one at first; when this is full either of beesor honey, and yet bees are crowded outside, the other can be added. This is before swarming; too much room might retard the swarming a fewdays, but if crowded outside, it indicates want of room, and the boxescan make but little difference. It is better to have one box wellfilled than two half full, which might be the case if the bees were notnumerous. The object of putting on boxes before swarming, is to employa portion of the bees, that otherwise would remain idly clusteringoutside two or three weeks, as they often do, while preparing the youngqueens for swarming. But when all the bees can be profitably engaged inthe body of the hive, more room is unnecessary. 

MAKING HOLES AFTER THE HIVE IS FULL. 

Whenever it is required to put boxes on a hive that has no holesthrough the top, it need not prevent your getting a few pounds of thepurest honey that may be had, just as well as to have a portion of thebees idle. I always endeavor to ascertain in what direction the sheetsof comb are made, and then mark off the row of holes on the top, atright angles with them. 

ADVANTAGE OF PROPER ARRANGEMENT. 

Two inches being nearly the right distance, each one will be so madethat a bee arriving at the top of the hive between any two sheets willbe able to find a passage into the box, without the task of a longsearch for it; which I can imagine to be the case when only one holefor a passage is made, or when the row of holes is parallel with thecombs. A hive might contain eight or ten sheets of comb, and a beedesirous of entering the box might go up between any two, many times, before it found the passage. It has been urged that every bee soonlearns all passages and places about the hive, and consequently willknow the direct road to the box. This may be true, but when werecollect that all within the hive is perfect darkness--that this pathmust be found by the sense of feeling alone--that this sense must beits guide in all its future travels--that perhaps a thousand or twoyoung workers are added every week, and these have to learn by the samemeans--it would seem, if we studied our own interest, we would givethem all the facility possible for entering the boxes. What way so easyfor them as to have a passage, when they get to the top, between eachcomb? That bees do not know all roads about the hive, can be partiallyproved by opening the door of a glass hive. Most of the bees aboutleaving, instead of going to the bottom for their exit, where they havedeparted many times, seem to know nothing of the way, but vainly try toget out through the glass, whenever light is admitted. 

I am so well convinced of this, that I take some pains to accommodatethem with a passage between each comb; they will then at least lose notime by mistakes between the wrong combs, crowding and elbowing theirway back through a dense mass of bees which impede every step, untilagain at the top perhaps between the same combs, perhaps right, perhapsfarther off than at first; when I suppose they try it again; as boxesare filled sometimes under just such circumstances. 

To assist them as much as possible, when new hives are used for swarms, I wait till the hive is nearly filled before making the holes toascertain the direction of the combs. We all know it is uncertain whichway the combs will be built, when the swarm is put in, unlessguide-combs are used. [15] When holes are made before the bees are putin, guide-combs as directed for boxes should be put in; (of course theyshould cross at right angles the row of holes). 

 [15] Perhaps Miner's cross-bar hive would do it. 

DIRECTIONS FOR BORING HOLES IN FULL STOCKS. 

_To make holes in the top after the combs are made_, --Mark out the topas directed for making hives and boxes. A centre bit or an auger bitwith a lip or barb is best, as that cuts down a little faster than thechip is taken out, leaving it smooth; when nearly through, a pointedknife can cut the remainder of the chip loose, and it can be taken out;if it is between the combs, it is well; if directly over the centre ofone, it is a little better; with the knife take out a piece as large asa walnut; even if honey is in it, no harm will be done. The bees willthen have a passage through from either side of the comb. 

After you have opened one hole, very likely the bees will want to seewhat is going on over head, and walk out to reconnoitre. To preventtheir interference, use some tobacco-smoke, and send them down out ofyour way, till your hole is finished. Now lay over this a small stoneor block of wood, and make the others in the same way. When all aredone, blow in some smoke as you uncover them, and put on your box. Thisprocess is not half so formidable as it appears; I have in this waybored hundreds. You will remember my hives are not as high as manyothers keep them, they are in about as convenient a position as I canget them. This method saves me the trouble of sticking the guide-combsin my hives; also, the necessity of covering or stopping the holes. Dr. Bevan and some others have made a cross-bar hive, instead of nailing ona top in the usual way; a half-inch board of the right length is cutinto strips, some over an inch wide, and half an inch apart, across thetop. It is plain that in such a hive a bee can pass into the boxwhenever it arrives at the top, without difficulty. I will here repeatthe objection to allowing too much room, to pass into the boxes, thatyou may see the disadvantages of the extremes of too little and toomuch room. In these cross-bar hives, the animal heat rises into the boxfrom the main hive, making it as warm as below; the queen goes up withthe bees, and finding it warm and convenient for breeding, deposits hereggs; and young brood as well as honey is found there. When we think itfull, it is then indispensable to return it, if taken off, till theyhatch, (otherwise they spoil it by moulding), which makes the combsdark, tough, &c. Another objection to such open tops is, that openbottom boxes must be used, which are not half as neat for market. 

TO BE TAKEN OFF WHEN FILLED. 

This advantage attends glass boxes: while being filled, the progresscan be watched till finished, when they should be taken off to preservethe purity of the combs. Every day the bees are allowed to run overthem, renders them darker. Consequently, when our bees are a long timefilling a box, it is not as purely white as when filled expeditiously. 

TIME TAKEN TO FILL A BOX. 

Two weeks is the shortest time I ever had any filled and finished. This, of course, depends on the yield of honey, and size of the swarm;three or four weeks are usually taken for the purpose. I have beforesaid that the first yield of honey nearly fails in this section, usually about the 20th of July; there are some variations, later orearlier, according to the season. In other places it may be much later. 

WHEN TO TAKE OFF BOXES PART FULL. 

It can be ascertained by occasionally raising the cover to your glassboxes. When no more is being added, all boxes that are worth thetrouble should be taken off; if left longer the comb gets darker, andsuch cells of honey as are not sealed over, (and sometimes the majorityare such, ) the bees generally remove down into the hive. 

TOBACCO SMOKE PREFERRED TO SLIDES. 

When boxes are to be taken off, if a slide of tin, zinc, &c. , is usedto close the holes, some of the bees are apt to be crushed, others willfind themselves minus a head, leg, or abdomen, and all of them beirritable for several days. A little tobacco smoke is preferable, as itkeeps all quiet. Just raise the box to be taken off sufficient to puffunder it some smoke, and the bees will leave the vicinity of the holesin an instant; the box can then be removed, and another put on ifnecessary, without exciting their anger in the least. 

MANNER OF DISPOSING OF THE BEES IN THE BOXES. 

Arouse the bees by striking the box lightly four or five times. If allthe cells are finished, and honey is still obtained, turn the boxbottom up, near the hive from which it was taken, so that the bees canenter it without flying; by this means you can save several young bees, that have never left the hive and marked the location, and a few otherstoo weak to fly, but will follow the others into the hive; (such arelost when we are obliged to carry them at a distance. ) Boxes can betaken off either in the morning or evening; if in the morning, it maystand several hours when the sun is not too hot, but on no account letit stand in the sun in the middle of the day, as the combs will melt. The bees will all leave, sometimes in an hour; at others they will notbe out in three. They may be taken off at evening and stand tillmorning, in fair weather; if not too cool, they are generally all out;but here is some risk of the moth finding it and depositing her eggs;perhaps one in fifty may be thus found. 

BEES DISPOSED TO CARRY AWAY HONEY. 

When boxes are taken off at the end of the honey season, a differentmethod of getting rid of the bees must be adopted, or we lose ourhoney. Unless the combs are all finished, we lose some then any way, asmost of the bees fill themselves before leaving; they carry it home andreturn for more immediately, and take it all, if not prevented. It hasbeen recommended to take it to some dark room with a small opening tolet the bees out; in the course of the day they will sometimes allleave; but this method I have found unsafe, as they sometimes find theway back. When a large number of boxes are to be managed, a moreexpeditious mode is, to have a large box with close joints, or an emptyhogshead, or a few barrels with one head out, set in some convenientplace; put the boxes in, one above another, but not in a manner to stopthe holes; over the top throw a sheet of one thickness, a thin one isbest, as it will let through more light. The bees will leave the boxes, creep to the top, and get on the sheet; take this off and turn it overa few times; in this way all may be got rid of without the possibilityof carrying off much honey. All that know the way will return to thehive, but a few young ones are lost. 

NOT DISPOSED TO STING. 

They seldom offer to sting during this part of the operation, even whenthe box is taken off without tobacco smoke, and carried away from thehive; after a little time, the bees finding themselves away from home, lose all animosity. 

As honey becomes scarce, less brood is reared; a great many cells thatthey occupied are soon empty; also, several cells that contained honeyhave been drained, and used to mature the portion of brood just startedat the time of the failure. We can now understand, or think we do, whyour best stocks that are very heavy, that but a few days before werecrowded for room and storing in boxes, are now eager for honey to storein the hive; as there is abundant room for several pounds. They willquickly remove to the hive the contents of any box left exposed; oreven risk their lives by entering a neighboring hive for it; afterbeing allowed to make a beginning, under such circumstances. 

RULE. 

During a yield of honey, take off boxes as fast as they are filled, andput on empty ones. At the end of the season take all off. Not one stockin a hundred will starve that has worked in boxes, that is, when thehive is the proper size, and full before adding the boxes, unlessrobbed or other casualty. 

CHAPTER XII. 

SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. 

TWO THINGS TO BE PREVENTED. 

When the boxes are free from the bees, two things are to be prevented, if we wish to save our honey till cold weather. One is to keep out theworms, the other to prevent souring. The last may be new to many, butsome few of us have had it caused by dampness in warm weather. Thecombs become covered with moisture, a portion of the honey becomes thinlike water, and instead of the saccharine qualities we have the acid. Remedy: keep perfectly dry and cool, if you can, but dry at any rate. 

APT TO BE DECEIVED ABOUT THE WORMS. 

But the worms, you can surely keep them out, you think, since you canseal up the boxes perfectly close, preventing the moth or even thesmallest ant from entering! Yes, you may do this effectually, but theworms will often be there somehow, unless in a very low temperature, such as a very cool cellar, or in house, and then you have dampness toguard against. I have a little experience in this matter that spoilsyour theory entirely. I have taken off glass jars, and watched themtill the bees were all out, and was _certain the moth did not comenear_ them, then immediately sealed them up; absolutely preventingaccess afterwards, (I could do this with a jar more effectually than abox which is made of several pieces, ) I then felt quite sure that I wasahead, and should have no trouble with the worms, as had often been thecase before. I was sadly mistaken. 

THEIR PROGRESS DESCRIBED. 

In a few days, I could see at first a little white dust, like flour, onthe side of the combs, and on the bottom of the jar. As the worms grewlarger, this dust was coarser. By looking closely at the combs, a smallwhite thread-like line was first perceptible, enlarging as the wormprogressed. 

When combs are filled with honey, they go only on the surface, eatingnothing but the sealing of the cells; seldom penetrating to the centre, without an empty cell to give the chance. Disgusting as they seem tobe, they dislike being daubed with honey. _Wax, and not honey, is theirfood. _

The reader would like to know how these worms came in the jars, when, to all appearance, it _was a physical impossibility_. I would like totell positively, but cannot. But I will guess, if you will allow it. Iwill first premise, that I do not suppose they are generatedspontaneously! Their being found there, then, would indicate some agentor means not readily perceived. 

A SOLUTION OFFERED. 

The hypothesis that I offer is original and new, and therefore open forcriticism; if there is a better way to account for the mystery, I wouldbe glad to know it. 

From the first of June till late in the fall, the moth may be foundaround our hives, active at night, but still in the day. The onlyobject probably is to find a suitable place to deposit its eggs, thatthe young may have food; if no proper and convenient place is found, why, I suppose it will take up with such as it _can_ find; their eggs_must_ be deposited somewhere, it may be in the cracks in the hive, inthe dust at the bottom, or outside, as near the entrance as they dareapproach. The bees running over them may get one or more of these eggsattached to their feet or bodies, and carry it among the combs, whereit may be left to hatch. It is not at all probable that the moth everpassed through the hive among the bees, to deposit her eggs in the jarsbefore mentioned. Had these jars been left on the hive, not a wormwould have ever defaced a comb; because, when the bees are numerous, each worm as soon as it commences its work of destruction will beremoved, that is, when it works on the surface, as in the boxes ofhoney--in breeding combs, they get in the centre and are more difficultto remove. By taking off these jars and removing the bees, it gave allthe eggs that happened to be there a fair chance. Many writers findingthe combs undisturbed when left on the hive till cold weather, recommend that as the only safe way, preferring to have the combs alittle darker, than the risk of being destroyed by the worms. But Iobject to dark combs, and leaving the boxes will effectually preventempty ones taking their places, which are necessary to get all theprofits. I will offer a few more remarks in favor of my theory, andthen give my remedy for the worms. I have found in all hives where thebees have been removed in warm weather, say between the middle of Juneand September, (and it has been a great many, ) moth eggs enough amongthe combs to destroy them in a very short time, unless kept in a verycool place; this result has been uniform. Any person doubting this, mayremove the bees from a hive that is full of combs in July or August;and close it to prevent the _possibility_ of a moth entering, set itaway in a temperature ranging from sixty to ninety, and if there arenot worms enough to satisfy him that this is correct, he will havebetter success than I ever did. Yet, no such result will follow, whenthe bees are left among the combs, unless the swarm be very small; thenthe injury done will be in proportion. A strong stock may have as manymoth eggs among the combs as a weak one, yet one will be scarcelyinjured, while the other may be nearly or quite destroyed. 

Now, if this theory be correct, and the bees do actually carry theseeggs among the combs, is there not a great deal of lost labor in tryingto construct a moth-proof hive? The moth, or rather the worms, are everpresent to devour the combs, whenever the bees have left them in thisseason. 

METHOD OF KILLING WORMS IN BOXES. 

Now, whether you are satisfied or not with the foregoing, we willproceed with the remedy. Perhaps you may find one box in ten that willhave no worms about it, others may contain from one to twenty when theyhave been off a week or more. All the eggs should have a chance tohatch, which in cool weather may be three weeks. They should bewatched, that no worms get large enough to injure the combs much, before they are destroyed. Get a close barrel or box that will excludethe air as much as possible; in this put the boxes, with the holes orbottom open. In one corner leave a place for a cup or dish of somekind, to hold some sulphur matches while burning. (They are made bydipping paper or rags in melted sulphur. ) When all is ready, ignite thematches, and cover close for several hours. A little care is requiredto have it just right: if too little is used, the worms are not killed;if too much, it gives the combs a green color. A little experience willsoon enable you to judge. If the worms are not killed on the firsttrial, another dose must be administered. Much less sulphur will adhereto paper or rags, if it is very hot, when dipped, than when just abovethe temperature necessary to melt it; this should be considered, aswell as the number of boxes to be smoked, size of the vessel used insmoking them, &c. 

Whether this gas from burning sulphur will destroy the eggs of the mothbefore the worm appears, I have not tested sufficiently to decide; butI do know that it is an effectual quietus for the larvæ!

FREEZING DESTROYS THEM. 

Boxes taken off at the end of warm weather, and exposed in a freezingsituation through the winter, appear to have all the worms as well aseggs for them destroyed by the cold; consequently, all boxes soexposed, may be kept any length of time; the only care being necessary, to shut out the moth effectually. But don't forget to look out for allcombs from which the bees have been removed in warm weather. I prefertaking off all boxes at the end of the first yield of honey, even whenI expect to put them on again for buckwheat honey. The bees at thisseason collect a great abundance of propolis, which they spread overthe inside of the boxes as well as hive; in some instances it is spreadon the glass so thick as to prevent the quality of honey being seen. There is no necessity for boxes on a hive at any season when there isno yield of honey to fill them. Sometimes even in a yield of buckwheathoney, a stock may contain too few bees to fill boxes, but just a fewmay go into them and put on the propolis; this should not be allowed, as it makes it look bad when used another year. At this season, (August) some old stocks may be full of combs, and but few bees, butswarms when they have got the hive full in time, are very sure to havebees enough to go into the boxes to work. I have known them to do so inthree weeks after being hived. 

OBJECTION TO USING BOXES BEFORE THE HIVE IS FULL. 

Some put on boxes at the time of hiving the bees. In such cases the boxis often filled first, and nearly as often will contain brood. Iconsider it no advantage, and often a damage to do so; as I want thehive full any way--and then if they have time let them into boxes, although it may be buckwheat, instead of clover honey that we get. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

SWARMING. 

TIME TO EXPECT THEM. 

The season for regular swarms in this section, I have known to commencethe 15th of May, and in some seasons the 1st of July. The end is aboutthe 15th of the latter month, with some exceptions. I have had one aslate as the 21st; also a few buckwheat swarms between the 12th and 25thof August. 

The subject now before us is one of thrilling interest. To the apiarianthe prospect of an increase of stocks is sufficient to create someinterest, even when the phenomenon of swarming would fail to awaken it. But to the naturalist this season has charms that the indifferentbeholder can never realize. 

ALL BEE-KEEPERS SHOULD UNDERSTAND IT AS IT IS. 

As a guide in many cases, it is important that the practical apiarianshould understand this matter _as it is_, and not as said to be by manyauthors. I shall be under the necessity of differing from nearly all inmany points. 

MEANS OF UNDERSTANDING IT. 

This is another case of "when doctors disagree, who shall decide?" You, reader, are just the person. There is no need of a doctor at all inthis matter. I will endeavor to give a test for most of my assertions. To make this subject as plain as possible in this place, I may repeatsome things said before. The facts related have come under my ownobservation. I have probably taken more pains than most bee-keepers, tounderstand this matter to the bottom _from the beginning_, (I mean thebottom of the cells). But few apiarians have made the number ofexaminations that I have to get at the _modus operandi_ of swarming. Perhaps I ought not to expect full credit for veracity, when I assurethe reader that I have inverted more than one hundred stocks to get apeep at the royal cells, some of them near a dozen times in one summer. I have inverted them frequently for the purpose of obtaining cells. Butgenerally to see when such cells are being made, when they containeggs, when these eggs are sufficiently matured for swarming, orabandoned and destroyed, &c. 

By these signs I predict with certainty (almost) when to expect swarms, and when to cease looking for them. 

INVERTING A STOCK RATHER FORMIDABLE AT FIRST. 

To a person that has never inverted a hive full of bees, even tooverflowing, or never has seen it done, it appears like a greatundertaking, as well as the probability of ruining the stock! But afterthe first trial, the magnitude of the performance is greatlydiminished, and will grow less with every repetition of the feat, untilthere is not the least dread attending it. Without tobacco smoke Ihardly think it practicable, but with it, there is not the leastdifficulty. It would be very unsatisfactory to turn over a hive andnothing to drive the bees away from the very places on the combs thatyou wish particularly to inspect. The smoke is just the thing to do it!As for the bad effects of such overturning and smoking, I neverdiscovered any. 

REQUISITES BEFORE PREPARATION OF QUEEN'S CELLS. 

I have found the process for all regular swarms something like this:before they commence, two or three things are requisite. The combs mustbe crowded with bees; they must contain a numerous brood advancing fromthe egg to maturity; the bees must be obtaining honey either by beingfed or from flowers. Being crowded with bees in a scarce time of honeyis insufficient to bring out the swarm, neither is an abundancesufficient, without the bees and the brood. The period that all theserequisites happen together, and remain long enough, will vary withdifferent stocks, and many times do not happen at all through theseason, with some. 

These causes then appear to produce a few queen-cells, generally begunbefore the hive is filled, (sometimes when only half full, but usuallyremain as rudiments till the next year, when the foregoing conditionsof the stock may require their use). 

STATE OF QUEEN'S CELL WHEN USED. 

They are about half finished, when they receive the eggs; as these eggshatch into larvæ, others are begun, and receive eggs at differentperiods for several days later. The number of such cells seem to begoverned by the prosperity of the bees: when the family is numerous, and the yield of honey abundant, they may amount to twenty, at othertimes perhaps not more than two or three; although several such cellsmay remain empty. I have already said that a failure, (or even apartial one), in the yield of honey at any time from the depositing ofroyal eggs till the sealing of the cells, (which is about ten days), would be likely to bring about their destruction. Even after beingsealed, I have found a few instances where they were destroyed. 

STATE WHEN SWARMS ISSUE. 

But when there is nothing precarious about the honey, the sealing ofthese cells is the time to expect the first swarm, which will generallyissue the first fair day after one or more are finished. I never misseda prediction for a swarm 48 hours, when I have judged from these signs, in a prosperous season. When there is a partial failure of honey, theswarm sometimes will wait several days after finishing them. 

CLUSTERING OUTSIDE NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON. 

The clustering out of the bees I find but a poor criterion to judgefrom, further than full hives do swarm--many such do not. 

EXAMINATIONS--THE RESULT. 

I will detail a few circumstances, that have led to these conclusions. Some years ago the honey began to fail, when only about one third of mygood stocks had cast swarms; and all at once, the issues began to "befew and far between. " I had previously examined, and found they hadgone into preparations pretty extensively; by having not onlyconstructed cells, but occupied them with royal eggs and larvæ. Now Iexamined again, and found five out of six had destroyed them, (at thesame time the bees clustered out extensively). This put an end to allhopes of swarms here. Some few had finished their cells, and these, Ihad some hopes, would send out the swarms; but the dry weather causedsome misgivings. After waiting three or four days and none coming, Ifound these sealed cells destroyed also, and had no more swarms thatseason. Subsequent observations have fully confirmed these things. Oneseason some of the hives commenced preparations at two differentperiods, and then abandoned them without swarming at all, through thesummer. The first time it was the last of May, the next in July. 

REMARKS. 

The failure of honey was the cause, without any doubt. And who shallsay, these bees were not wise in their conduct? What prudent man wouldemigrate with a family, if the prospect of a famine was plainlyindicated, when, by remaining at home, there was enough, at least forthe present? Who can help but admire this wise and beautifularrangement? The combs must contain brood; the bees must find honeyduring the rearing of the queens. If a swarm were to issue the momentof obtaining honey, the consequence might be fatal, as there would notbe a numerous brood to hatch out, and replenish the old stock with beessufficient to keep out the worms. Were they to issue at any time, assoon as the bees had increased enough in numbers to spare a swarm, without regard to the yield of honey, they might starve. 

CONFLICTING THEORIES. 

I find many theories conflicting with these views, which appear to callfor some remarks. It is generally supposed that a young queen must bematured to issue with the swarms, and the old one with the old bees arepermanent residents of the old hive. 

BOTH OLD AND YOUNG LEAVE WITH SWARMS. 

It is probable that no rule governs the issue of workers. Old and youngcome out promiscuously. That old bees come out may be known sometimes, by so many leaving, that not a quarter as many will be left, ascommenced work in the spring. That young bees leave, any one may besatisfied on seeing a swarm issue; a great many too young and weak tofly will drop down in front of the hive, having come out now for thefirst time, and perhaps some of them had not been out of the cell anhour; these very young bees are known by the color. 

CAUSE OF THE QUEEN'S INABILITY TO FLY SUGGESTED. 

The old queen often gets down in the same way; but I would assignanother cause for her inability to fly; that is, I would suggest it tobe her burden of eggs. 

EVIDENCE OF THE OLD QUEEN'S LEAVING. 

That the old queen does leave with the first swarm is indicated byseveral things: one is, eggs may often be found on the board the nextmorning; another, when the first swarm has left, and before any ofthese royal cells hatch, the bees may be driven out and no queen willbe found, or you may drive out the bees at the end of three weeks, andthe brood of workers will be about all hatched, the drone brood notquite as near. The combs may also contain some eggs, and perhaps somevery young larvæ, that have been deposited by the young queen, whichbegins to lay usually sixteen or eighteen days after the first swarm. This shows a cessation of laying eggs for about two weeks. First swarmswill have eggs in the cells as soon as they are made to hold them, which is often within 24 hours after being hived; occasionally a newpiece of comb will fall down, and, if the cells are deep enough, theyare almost certain to contain eggs. I could add other proof, but theattentive observer will discover it himself. 

MR. WEEKS' THEORY NOT SATISFACTORY. 

Mr. J. M. Weeks, in his work on bees, says, "Two causes and two onlycan be assigned why bees ever swarm: the first, the crowded state ofthe hive; the second, to avoid the battle of the queens. " The firstcause producing first swarms, the other second, third, &c. Mr. Colton'spatent hive, it is said, can be made to swarm "at any time within twodays, " merely for want of room. By removing the six boxes attached toit, the bees are compelled to crowd into the main body of the hive, andswarm out in consequence. Now, if merely crowding the hive with bees isthe only cause of first swarms, how is it that half or more of minerefused to swarm, when a great many, for want of room, were crowdedoutside for weeks, and great numbers maturing every day to crowd themstill more? To me the reason is plain, that some of thebefore-mentioned requisites were wanting. Mr. Weeks further says, whenthe first swarm has left, "not a single queen, in any stage ofminority, is left in the old hive; the bees, destitute of a queen, setabout constructing several royal cells, take larvæ or eggs and put inthem, and feed with royal jelly, and in a few days have a queen. "Although I had not had much experience at the time of getting his work, I had some doubts, because I found that all hives that became full andbegan to run over, did not swarm, and some others swarmed before beingquite full; it seemed as if something like a preparation beforehand wasrequisite. I knew of no means, for a long time, that would decide_positively_; when it occurred to me, if I examined the old stockimmediately after the first swarm had left, I should find somepreparations if there were any; a thing so simple and easy that I feltsomewhat mortified not to have thought of it before. The first stock Ilooked at revealed the secret. I examined it the evening of the daythat a swarm had left; I was gratified by finding two finished cells onthe lower edges of the combs; other cells were in different stages ofprogression, from those containing an egg to the full developed larva. Several more hives showed the same result. I now got bold enough toexamine some previous to swarming, as I have already explained. 

MR. MINER NOT CORRECT. 

Mr. T. B. Miner, in his work, has allowed the preparation of queencells previous to swarming, but he has put off the time of the swarmissuing eight or nine days too long. That is, he has the young queenmatured so that she commences piping first, which does not occur morethan one time in fifty. 

Now I think it more than probable that many readers will have somedoubts in regard to my statements about this swarming matter. Yet Ithink I can give directions sufficiently particular that they mayremove them themselves. They should bear in mind that they have noright to be _positive_ on any subject without an investigation. 

PARTICULAR DIRECTIONS FOR TESTING THE MATTER. 

I will now give more minute directions for an examination. Full hivesrequire a little more care than those containing fewer bees. Don't letthe crowded state of the hive, even if some are outside, deter you fromgratifying a laudable curiosity, (such hives are most likely to possessthese cells. ) Let the satisfaction of ascertaining a few facts foryourselves stimulate you to this exertion, the risk is not much; what Ihave done you may do. This is better than to rely on any man's "_ipsedixit_. " I do it without any protection whatever for face or hands;but, if you have too much fear of stings, a veil to protect the facemay be put on, but do without it, if you can find the courage, as youwill want a good view. The best time is, when most of the bees are outat work near the middle of the day; but then the bees from the otherhives are sometimes cross, and interfere. On that account I prefermorning or evening, although there are more bees to be smoked out ofthe way. If you are accustomed to smoking tobacco, you will find a pipejust the thing for making a smoke here; if not, vide a description ofan apparatus in chap. 18th, p. 281. When you are ready to proceed, somesmoke must be blown under the hive before you touch it; then raise thefront side a few inches, and blow in some more; now carefully lift thehive from the stand, avoiding any jar, as this would arouse theiranger; turn it bottom upwards; also, be careful all the time not tobreathe among them. More smoke will now make them crowd among the combsout of your way while you examine. It is very common for the bees toset up a buzzing, and rush up the sides of the hive, but a little smokewill drive them back; get them out of the way as much as possible, andlook on the edges of the combs for the queens' cells, where most ofthem are. If the hive is fully supplied with honey, they will be nearthe bottom, if not, farther up among the combs; in some hives theycannot be seen even where they exist. Yet they may be found in four outof five, by a thorough search. I have found nine within two inches ofthe bottom, some on the extreme ends of the comb. I would here give acaution about turning over hives with very new combs, before they areattached to the sides of the hive, as they are apt to bend over. 

EMPTY HIVES TO BE READY. 

We will now suppose that some of your stocks are ready to cast theirswarms: we will also presume that your empty hives for the reception ofswarms are ready before this period; to prepare a hive after the swarmhas issued is bad management; negligence here argues negligenceelsewhere; it is one of the premonitions of "bad luck. "

BOTTOM-BOARDS FOR HIVING. 

You will want also a number of bottom-boards, expressly for hiving; geta board a little larger than the bottom of the hive, nail strips acrossthe ends on the under side to prevent warping; in the middle cut out aspace five or six inches square, and cover with wire cloth. These arefor your large swarms in very hot weather, to be used for four or fivedays. They are much safer than to raise the hive an inch or more forventilation. They are also essential for many other occasions. I wouldnot do without them, even if the expense was ten times what it is. 

DESCRIPTION OF SWARM ISSUING. 

When the day is fair and not too much wind, first swarms generallyissue from ten o'clock till three; if you are on the lookout, the firstoutside indication of a swarm, will be an unusual number of bees aroundthe entrance, from one to sixty minutes before they start. The utmostconfusion seems to prevail, bees running about in every direction; theentrance apparently closed with the mass of bees, (perhaps oneexception in twenty, ) presently a column from the interior forces apassage to the open air; they come rushing out by hundreds, allvibrating their wings as they march out; and when a few inches from theentrance, rise in the air; some run up the side of the hive, others tothe edge of the bottom-board. If you have seen the old queen comerushing out the first one, and the rest following her, as we are oftentold she does, you have seen what I never did in a first swarm! Secondand third swarms conduct themselves quite differently. I have seen theold queen issue a few times, but not till half the swarm was out. 

The bees when first rising from the hive, describe circles of but fewfeet, but as they recede, they spread over an area of several rods. Their movement are much slower than usual, in a few minutes thousandsmay be seen revolving in every possible direction! A swarm may be seenand heard, at a distance, where fifty hives, ordinarily at work, wouldnot be noticed! When about out of the hive, or soon after, some branchof a tree or bush is usually selected on which to cluster. In less thanhalf a minute after the spot is indicated, even when the bees arespread over an acre, they are gathered in the immediate vicinity, andall cluster in a body from five to ten minutes after leaving the hive. They should now be hived immediately, as they show impatience if leftlong, especially in the sun; also, if another stock should send out aswarm while they were hanging there, they would be quite sure to mixtogether. 

MANNER OF HIVING CAN BE VARIED. 

It makes but little difference what way they are put in the hive, providing they are all made to go in. Proceed as is most convenient; anold table or bench is very good to keep them out of the grass if thereshould happen to be any; if there is not much in the way, lay yourbottom-board on the ground, make it level, set your hive on it, andraise one edge an inch or more to give the bees a chance to enter. 

USUAL METHOD. 

Cut off the branch with the bees, if it can be done as well as not, andshake it in front of the hive, a portion will discover it, and will atonce commence a vibration of their wings; this, I suppose, is a callfor the others. A knowledge of a new home being found seems to becommunicated in this way, as it is kept up until all are in. A greatmany are apt to stop about the entrance, thereby nearly or quiteclosing it, and preventing others going in, when they will gather onthe outside. You can expedite the matter with a stick or quill, bygently pushing them away; and another portion will enter. When gentlemeans will not induce them to go in, in a reasonable time, and theyappear obstinate, a little water sprinkled on them will facilitateoperations greatly, when nothing else will. (Be careful and not over-dothe matter, by using too much water, they can be so wet as not to moveat all. )

When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to cut off, placeyour bottom-board as near as convenient; on it lay two sticks about aninch in diameter, of the same length: try the hive, and see that all isright; then turn it bottom up, directly under the main part of thecluster; if you have an assistant, let him jar the branch sufficientlyto detach the bees; most of them will fall directly into the hive. Ifno assistant is at hand it is unnecessary to wait, (I have done it ahundred times without help); with the bottom of the hive strike theunder side of the branch hard enough to dislodge them, then turn it onthe board; the sticks will prevent the bottom crushing many bees. 

WHEN OUT OF REACH. 

I have gone up a ladder fifteen feet, got the bees in the hive in thisway, and backed down without difficulty. After putting the hive in itsplace, sometimes a part will go back; in that case, a small branch fullof leaves should be held directly under and close to them, and as manyjarred on it as possible. Hold this still, and shake the other toprevent their clustering there; you will soon have them all collected, ready to bring down, and put by the hive. A handle basket or large tinpan may be taken up the ladder instead of the hive, when they can bereadily emptied before it. But very few will fly out in coming down. Ifyou succeed in getting nearly all the bees in the first effort, and butfew are left, merely shaking the branch will be sufficient to preventtheir holding fast, and will turn their attention to those below, wherethose which have already found a hive will be doing their best to callthem. When the hive is first turned over, most of the bees fall on theboard and rush out, but as soon as it is realized that a home is found, a buzzing commences inside; this quickly communicates the fact to thoseoutside, which immediately turn about, facing the hive and hum inconcert, while marching in. 

Another plan may be adopted, even if fifteen feet high; when the branchis not too large, and there is not too much in the way below it. Haveready two or three light poles of suitable length; select such as havea branch at the upper end, large enough to hold a two-bushel basket. This is raised directly under the swarm; with another pole, the beesare all dislodged, and fall into the basket, and are quickly let down. Now, if you have got about all, throw a sheet over for a few moments, to prevent their escape. They soon become quiet, and may be hivedwithout many going back to the branch, as they do, when attempting tohive them immediately. 

I often have them begin to cluster near the ground, very convenientlyfor hiving. In such a case, I do not wait for all to collect, but assoon as such place is indicated, I get the board and hive ready. When aquart or so are gathered, shake them in a hive, and set it up; theswarm will now go to that, instead of the branch, especially if thelatter is shaken a little. Where many stocks are kept, it is advisableto be as expeditious as possible. A swarm will thus hive itself muchsooner than when it is allowed to cluster. 

WHEN THEY CANNOT BE SHAKEN OFF. 

Swarms will sometimes get in places where it is impossible to jar themoff, or cut off a branch, such as the trunk of a tree, or a large limbnear it. In which case place the hive near, as first directed; take alarge tin dipper, a vessel most convenient for the purpose, and dip itfull of bees; with one hand turn back the hive; with the other throwthe bees into it; some of them will discover that a home is provided, and set up the call for the rest, (by the vibration of their wings), and the remainder may be emptied in front of the hive as you dip themoff. I have known a few instances when the first dipper full all ranout, and joined the others without making the discovery that they werein a hive, but this is seldom the case. When you get the queen in, there is no trouble with the remainder, even if there are many left; assoon as they ascertain that the queen is no longer among them, it maybe known by their uneasy movements, and they will soon leave, and jointhose in the hive; but if the queen is yet on the tree, and but a dozenwith her, they will leave the hive and cluster again. 

ALL SHOULD BE MADE TO ENTER. 

In all cases be sure to get them all to enter; a cluster outside of itmay contain the queen, unconscious of a home so near; and the probableconsequence might be, she would leave for a miserable one in the woods. 

SHOULD BE TAKEN TO THE STAND IMMEDIATELY. 

When all are in, except a few that will be flying, let the hive downclose to the board; take hold of this and carry it at once to the standthey are to occupy, and raise the front edge half an inch; let the backrest on the board; this will give them means to re-ascend, if theychance to drop, which large swarms often do in hot weather. If thebottom is an inch or more from the board when the bees fall, there isnothing to prevent their rushing out on every side--their means ofgetting up again are bad--if the queen comes out with the rush, thereare some chances for their leaving. 

PROTECTION FROM THE SUN NECESSARY. 

Another thing is very important; _swarms should be protected from thesun for several days, in hot weather_, from nine o'clock till three orfour; and then if the heat is very oppressive, and the bees clusteroutside, sprinkle them with water and drive them in; and by wetting thehive occasionally, it will carry off a large portion of the heat, andmake it much more comfortable. 

CLUSTERING BUSHES. 

If there are no large trees in the vicinity of your apiary, all thebetter, as there will then be no danger of your swarms lighting onthem; but all bee-keepers are not so fortunate, myself being one of thenumber. In such a place it is necessary to provide something for themto cluster on; get some bushes six or eight feet high (hemlock ispreferable); cut off the ends of the branches, except a few near thetop: secure the whole with strings to prevent swaying in ordinarywinds; make a hole in the earth deep enough to hold them, and largeenough to be lifted out easily. The bees will be likely to cluster onsome of these; they can then be raised out, and the bees hived withoutdifficulty. A bunch of dry mullein tops tied together on the end of apole, makes a very good place for clustering; it so nearly resembles aswarm that the bees themselves appear to be sometimes deceived. I havefrequently known them leave a branch where they had begun to cluster, and settle on this when held near. 

The motives for immediately removing the swarm to the stand are, thatthey are generally more convenient to watch in case they are disposedto leave; also many bees can be saved. All that leave the hive, markthe location the same as in spring; several hundreds will probablyleave the first day; a few may leave several times; when removed atnight, such will return to the stand of the previous day, and generallyare lost; whereas, if they are carried at once to a permanent stand, this loss is avoided. 

Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old stock, whichthose that return from the swarm the next day will not always do. Thetime for moving them now is no more than at another. It is unnecessaryto object, and say, that "it will take too long to wait for the bees toget in;" this will not do. I shall insist on your getting all the beesto enter before leaving any way. I consider this an essential featurein the management. I will not say that my directions will _always_prevent their going to the woods, but this I do say, that out of thehundreds that I have hived, not one has ever left. It is possibleproper management has had no influence in my success, yet somethinglike an opinion of this kind has been indulged for a long time. 

HOW SWARMS ARE GENERALLY MANAGED THAT LEAVE FOR THE WOODS. 

Some of my neighboring bee-keepers lose a quarter or half of theirswarms by flight, and how do they manage? When the word is given out, "Bees swarming, " a tin-horn, tin-pan, bells, or anything to make a"horrible din, " is seized upon in the hurry of the moment, and as muchnoise made as possible, to _make_ them cluster; (which they naturallywould do without the music, at least all mine have. This probably gaverise to the opinion of one old lady, who _knew_ "drumming on a pan didgood, for she had tried it. ") Very often a hive is to be constructed, or an old one unfit to use any way, needs some sticks across, orsomething to take time. When the hive is obtained, it must be washedwith something nice to make the bees like it; a little honey must bedaubed on the inside; sugar and water, molasses and water, salt andwater, or salt and water rubbed on with hickory leaves, "is the bestthing in the world;" several other things are just as good, and someare better. Even whisky, that bane of man, has been offered them as abribe to stay, and sometimes they are persuaded and go to work. 

NOTHING BUT BEES NEEDED IN A HIVE. 

Now I cannot say positively that these things do harm, yet I am quitesure they do no good, as nothing but bees is needed in a hive. Is itreasonable to suppose they are fond of all the "knick-knacks" giventhem? I have never used any, and could not possibly have done better. Iam careful to have the hive sweet and clean, and not too smooth inside;an old hive that has been used before is scalded and scraped. 

But to the manner they get the bees in, after the hive is ready. Atable is set out, and a cloth spread on it; sticks are put on to raisethe hive an inch or more: if they succeed in getting the swarm even onthe outside of the hive it is left; if they go in, it is well; if theygo off, why hope for "better luck next time. " The hive is leftunsheltered in the hot sun and when there is no wind, the heat is sooninsupportable, or at least very oppressive; the bees hang in loosestrings, instead of a compact body, as when kept cool; they are veryapt to fall, and when they do, will rush out from every side: if thequeen chances to drop with them, they _may_ "step out. " Two thirds ofall the bees that go to the woods are managed in this, or a similarmanner, and may it not be said, they are fairly driven off?

SELDOM GO OFF WITHOUT CLUSTERING. 

Perhaps one swarm in three hundred will depart for the woods withoutfirst clustering. I have had three times that number, not one of whichhas ever left me thus. Yet I have evidence not to be disputed that somewill do it. Three instances have occurred near me that satisfied me ofthe fact. Two were lost, the other was followed to a tree, half a mileoff; I assisted in cutting the tree, and hiving them. The cavity wherethey entered was very small, and contained old comb, made by a swarm ayear or two previous, which had probably starved, as there was toolittle room for storing sufficient honey for winter. This swarm, whenhived and carried home, remained perfectly contented. 

DO SWARMS CHOOSE A LOCATION BEFORE SWARMING?

The inquiry is often made, Do all swarms have a place looked out beforeleaving the parent stock? The answer to this must ever be guess-work. Icould offer some circumstances indicating the affirmative verystrongly, and as much for the negative; and will let it pass at that. Yet I think if bees are properly cared for, that ninety-nine swarms ina hundred will prefer a good clean hive to a rotten tree in the woods. 

MEANS OF ARRESTING A SWARM. 

I have had three swarms that were exceptions to general rules, givingme some trouble by swarming out after being hived; the third and fourthtime they left, I threw water among them, causing quite a shower; whenmy pail-full was out, I used earth; they went but a short distance, andclustered in the usual way. Now were these bees intending to leave, andhad their designs frustrated by the water and earth? I am not quite assure as the old lady, who _knew_ that "drumming on a tin-pan did good, "but I am inclined to think it had some effect. I have heard of severalinstances where swarms were apparently stopped, by having earth thrownamong them, while passing over a field where men were at work. We knowthey dislike being wet, as we see them hastening home on the approachof a shower; or we can at any time drive them in the hive by sprinklingthem with water. Throwing water in the swarm is a kind of imitationshower, and earth is something like it. Whether useful or not, theseswarms leaving the hive was rather suspicious, and I should try itagain under similar circumstances. 

SOME COMPULSION. 

After getting them in the hive for the fourth time, I resolved not tobe baffled or have much more such trouble, and perhaps go to the woodsat last, thereby setting a bad example. I put under the hive thewire-cloth bottom-board, opened two or three holes on the top, andcovered these also with wire-cloth, (this was to let the aircirculate); a quantity of honey and water was given them and they werethen carried to the cellar, and kept prisoners four days, except halfan hour before sunset; when too late to leave for a journey, I set themout to provide a few necessaries, and then returned them to the cellar. In four days, when _honey enough_ is given them, a good swarm will halffill an ordinary hive with combs. Some of the first eggs deposited willbe about hatching into larvæ, all of which would seem like too much toleave. I now set them out, and gave them liberty; shading the hive, &c. , as before directed. They all proved faithful and industrious, prospering like others. If their design was for a distant location, they put a good face on the matter in the end. 

HOW FAR WILL THEY GO IN SEARCH OF A HOME?

How far they will travel in search of a home, is also uncertain. I haveheard of their going seven miles, but could not learn how the fact wasproved. I have no experience of my own in this matter, but will relatea circumstance that happened near me a few years since. A neighbor wasploughing, when a swarm passed over him; being near the earth, he"pelted them heartily" with the loose dirt he had ploughed up, whichseemed to bring them up, or rather down, as they clustered on a verylow bush; they were hived, and gave no further trouble. A man livingsome three miles from this neighbor, on that day hived a swarm abouteleven o'clock, and left them to warm up in the sun as described a pageor two back; about three o'clock their stock of patience was probablyexhausted, when they resolved to seek a better shelter. They put off ina great hurry, not even waiting to thank their owner for the spread onhis table, and the sweet-scented "yarbs" and good things with which hehad rubbed their hive. They gave him no notice whatever of theirintention to "quit, " until they were moving! With all their goods readypacked, they were soon under way, accompanied by their owner withmusic; but whether they marched with martial precision, keeping time, is uncertain. In this case the bees took the lead; the man with histin-pan music kept the rear, and was soon at a respectful distance. They were either not in a mood, just then, to be charmed by melodioussounds, or their business was too urgent to allow them to stop andlisten! Their means of locomotion being superior to his, he gave up indespair, out of breath, after following about a mile. Another person, about the same time in the day, saw a swarm moving in the samedirection of the first; he also followed them till compelled to yieldto their greater travelling facilities. A third discovered their flightand attempted a race, but like the others soon came out behind. Thebefore-mentioned neighbor saw them, and thought of the fresh earth thathe had ploughed up, which he threw among them till they stopped. Howmuch farther they would have gone, if any, would be guessing. That itwas the same swarm that started three miles away, appears almostcertain; the direction was the same as seen by all, until they werestopped; the time in the day also exactly corresponded. 

We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. There will be someemergencies to provide for, and some exceptions to notice. 

TWO OR MORE SWARMS LIABLE TO UNITE. 

If we expect to keep many stocks, the chances are that two or more mayissue at one time; and when they do, they nearly always clustertogether (I once knew an instance where only three stocks were kept;they all swarmed and clustered together). It is plain that the greaterthe number of stocks, the more such chances are multiplied. 

DISADVANTAGE. 

One first swarm, if of the usual size, will contain bees enough forprofit, yet two such will work together without quarrelling, and willstore about one-third more than either would alone; that is, if eachsingle swarm would get 50 lbs. , the two together would not get over 70lbs. , perhaps less. Here, then, is a loss of 30 lbs. , besides one ofthe swarms is about lost for another year; because such double swarmsare not generally any better the next spring as a stock, and often notas good as a single one. You will therefore see the advantage ofkeeping the first swarms separate. 

CAN OFTEN BE PREVENTED. 

"Prevention is better than cure. " We can, if we keep a good lookout, often prevent more than one issuing at a time. This depends on ourknowledge of indications, in a great measure. I have said that beforestarting to fly off, they were about the entrance in great numbers;there may be one exception in twenty, where the first indications willbe a column of bees rushing from the hive. To take this matter a littlefarther from the surface, we will take a peep at the interior; that is, if our hives contain glass boxes, such as have been recommended. It isan advantage to know which are about to cast their swarms, as longbeforehand as possible. 

INDICATIONS OF SWARMING INSIDE THE HIVE. 

These glass boxes are usually filled with bees; before leaving they maybe seen in commotion, long before any unusual stir is visible outside, sometimes for near an hour. The same may be noticed in a glass hive. Now, in good weather, when we have reason to expect many swarms, it isour duty to watch closely, especially when the weather has beenunfavorable for several days previous. A number of stocks may havefinished their queen-cells during the bad weather, and be ready to comeout within the first hour of sunshine that occurs in the middle of theday. We must expect some such occurrences, and in large apiaries thereis apt to be trouble, unless you take some precautions. If you havetaken no care (which but few will), by previous examinations, to knowwhich are ready, as soon as one has started or commenced flying, lookat all the rest that are in condition to swarm; or, what is muchbetter, look before any have started. Even if nothing unusual is seenabout the entrance, raise the cover to the boxes. If the bees in themare all quiet as usual, no swarm need be immediately apprehended, andyou will probably have time to hive one or two first. 

PREVENTING A SWARM ISSUING FOR A TIME. 

But should you discover the bees running to and fro in great commotion, although there may be but few about the entrance, you should lose notime in sprinkling those outside with water from a watering-pot, orother means. They will immediately enter the hive to avoid the supposedshower. In half an hour they will be ready to start again, in whichtime the others may be secured. I have had, in one apiary, twelve hivesall ready in one day, and did actually swarm; several of which wouldhave started at once, had they not been kept back with water, allowingonly one at a time, thus keeping them separate. They had been kept backby the clouds, which broke away about noon. 

TO PREVENT SWARMS UNITING WITH THOSE ALREADY HIVED. 

When any of the subsequent swarms were disposed to unite with thosealready hived, a sheet was thrown over to keep them out. I had four socovered at once. An assistant, in such cases, is very important; onecan watch symptoms and keep them back, while the other hives theswarms. 

Occasionally, when ready for a swarm and waiting for one to start, twomay do so at once. Whenever a part have got on the wing, I neversucceeded in stopping the issue: consequently I have found it uselesstrying to drive or coax them back in such cases. To succeed, the meansmust be used in season, before any of the swarm leaves. 

WHEN TWO HAVE UNITED, THE METHOD OF SEPARATING. 

Two or more swarms will cluster together, and not quarrel, if put inone hive; I have already told you the disadvantages. Unless business isvery urgent, your time cannot be better employed than in dividing them. First, it is necessary to provide a good stock of patience, as it maybe a short job, or it may be a long one. Get two empty hives, anddivide the bees as nearly equal as possible. It is generally the bestway to spread a sheet on the ground, and shake the bees in the centre, and set the hives each side of the mass, their edges raised to allowthe bees to enter; if too many are disposed to enter one hive, set itfarther off. If they cluster in a situation where they cannot be got tothe earth in a body, they must be dipped off as before directed, but, in this case, putting a dipper full in each hive alternately, until allare in. They should be made to hurry some in going in; keep theentrance clear, and stir them up often; or sprinkle a very little wateron them, as they should not be allowed to stop their humming until allare in. We have one chance in two of getting a queen in each. The twohives should now be placed twenty feet apart; if there is a queen ineach, the bees in both will remain quiet, and the work is done; but ifnot, the bees in the one destitute will soon manifest it by runningabout in all directions, and, when the queen cannot be found, willleave for the other hive, where there are probably two, a few going ata time. Now there are two or three methods of separating these queens;one is, to empty the bees out and proceed as before, a kind of chancegame, that may succeed at the next trial, and may have to be repeated. Another way is, that, as soon as it is ascertained which is without aqueen, before many bees leave, spread down a sheet; set this hive onit, and tie the corners over the top to secure the bees for thepresent, turn the hive on its side for the present to give them air; orit may be let down on a wire cloth bottom-board and the hole in theside stopped, and this would be less likely to smother the bees, if itcould be secured to the bottom, and have the hive lie on its side; whenthis division is secured, get another hive, and jar out those with thequeens; let them enter as before, and then set them apart, &c. , watching the result; if the queens are not yet separate, it will beknown by the same appearances. The process must be continued tillseparate, or the number with the queens may be easily looked over, andone of them found; indeed, a sharp lookout should be kept up from thebeginning, and the queens caught, if possible. 

NO DANGER OF A STING BY THE QUEEN. 

No danger of her sting need be apprehended, as she will not demeanherself to use that for a common foe; she must have a _royal_antagonist. When successful in obtaining one, it is sufficient; put herin a tumbler or some safe place; then put your bees in two hives, placethem as directed, and you will soon learn where your queen is needed. After all is done, the two hives should not be nearer than twenty feet, at least the first day; perhaps forty would be still better. When twoswarms are mixed, and then separated, it is evident that a portion ofeach swarm must be in both hives. A queen in each must of course be astranger to at least a part of the bees; these might, if their ownmother was too near, discover her, and leave the stranger for an oldacquaintance, and, in the act of going, call or attract the whole withthem, including the queen. I have known a few instances of the kind. 

SOME PRECAUTIONS IN HIVING TWO SWARMS TOGETHER. 

If you are disposed to separate them, but are afraid to work among themto this extent in the middle of the day, or if there is danger of moreissuing, to mix with them, and add to your perplexity, of which youalready have enough, then you can hive them as a single swarm; but, instead of a bottom-board, invert an empty hive and set the one withthe swarm on this, and insert a wedge between them, for ventilation. Asmany bees are liable to drop down, in this case the lower hive willcatch them, and there is less danger of leaving. Let them remain tillnear sunset, when another course may be taken to find a queen, thoughby that time one is sometimes killed; yet it is well to know the fact. Take them to some place out of the sun, as a less number will flyduring the operation. 

HOW TO FIND QUEEN, WHEN TWO STRANGERS ARE TOGETHER. 

First, look into the lower hive for a dead queen, and, if none is foundthere, look thoroughly, as far as possible, for a little compactcluster of bees, the size of a hen's egg, that may be rolled aboutwithout separating. Secure this cluster in a tumbler; it is quite sureone of the queens is a prisoner in the middle;[16] should two be seen, get both. Then divide the bees, and give the one destitute, a queen;or, if you have two, one to each, as the case may be. It would be wellfirst to see if the queen was alive, by removing the bees from abouther. But should you find nothing of the kind, spread a sheet on theground, shake the bees on one end of it, and set the hive on the other;they will immediately begin a march for the hive. You may now see thecluster, and may not; but they will spread out in marching, and give agood chance to see her majesty, when a tumbler is the most convenientthing to set over her. No matter if a few bees are shut up with her, there is no risk, then, in your eagerness to get the queen, of takinghold of a worker or two. A piece of window-glass can be slipped under, and you have her safe, and by this time you will know what is to bedone next. This operation could not well be done in the middle of theday, or in the sun, as too many bees would be flying, and greatlyinterfere. 

 [16] All stranger queens, introduced into a stock or swarm, are secured and detained in this manner by the workers, but whether _they_ dispatch them, or this is a means adopted to incite them to a deadly conflict, writers do not agree, and I shall not attempt a decision, as I never saw the bees voluntarily release a queen thus confined. But I have seen queens, when no bees interfered, rush together in a fatal rencounter, and one of them was soon left a fallen victim of the contest. 'Tis said it _never_ happens that both are killed in these battles, --perhaps not. As I never saw _quite all_ of these royal combats, of course I cannot decide. 

Should you fail in finding a queen, and cannot succeed in making adivision in consequence, or should you resolve, from want of time, patience or energy, to let them remain together in the beginning, it isunnecessary to get a hive any larger than usual for two swarms; theywill certainly find room by cold weather: if more than two, they_should_ be divided by all means; it will be a disadvantage for anotheryear. For the first four days, when two large swarms are together, itis necessary to keep an inverted hive under them, but much longer itwould not do, as they might extend their combs into the lower hive. 

BOXES FOR DOUBLE SWARMS IMMEDIATELY. 

It should then be taken out, and boxes immediately put on, which shouldbe changed for empty ones, as fast as they are filled. Yet, this extrahoney is not quite as much advantage as increase of stocks; when thatis an object, I will recommend another disposition. 

RETURNING A PART TO THE OLD STOCK. 

Separate one-third or more of the two swarms, being sure there is noqueen with this part, (by the test given of setting them at a distance)and then return them to one of the old stocks; they will immediatelyenter without contention, and issue again in about nine days, or assoon as a young queen is matured to go with them. There may be anexception to this, of one in twenty. I would have recommended thiscourse in all cases of the kind, but there will be a loss of time forthe bees in the old stock; because they are apt to be rather idle, evenwhen they might labor in the boxes; and here there is a loss of someeight or ten days. The collections of a good swarm may be estimated atleast one pound a day, (often two or three. ) A swarm that just fillsthe hive, would make at least ten pounds box-honey, if it could havebeen located ten days earlier. Still another method may be adopted whenyou have a very small swarm, one that is not likely to fill the hive, and has not been hived more than two or three days. A third of your twoswarms may be put in with that; taking care, as before, not to let youronly queen go with them. 

METHOD OF UNITING. 

The manner of doing it is very simple; get them in a hive as beforedirected, and jar them out in front of the one you wish them to enter, or invert it, setting the other over, and let them run up. 

WHEN CARE IS NECESSARY. 

Except on the day of swarming, care is necessary not to introduce asmall number with a large swarm; they are liable to be destroyed. Thedanger is much greater than to put together about an equal number, or alarge number put in with a few. The day that swarms issue, they willgenerally mix peaceably, but in proportion as time intervenes betweenthe issues, so will be the liability to quarrel. Yet, I have united twofamilies of about equal numbers in the fall and spring, and, with a fewexceptions, have had no difficulty. 

SWARM-CATCHER. 

There is another method of keeping swarms separate, contrived and usedby a Mr. Loucks, of Herkimer Co. , N. Y. He calls it a swarm-catcher; hehas a half dozen of them, and says he would not do without for oneseason, for fifty dollars, as he has a large apiary. I made one as nearas I could from seeing his, without taking the exact measure. I got outfour light posts four and half feet long, one inch square; then twelvepieces of one-quarter inch stuff, four inches wide; the four for thetop twelve inches long, for the bottom two were fourteen inches long, and two were twenty. These were thoroughly nailed on the ends of theposts, making it into an upright frame, the other four pieces werenailed around the middle, which made the frame firmer. I made a framefor the top, of four pieces, each an inch and a half in width, and halfinch thick, halved at the ends and nailed together, and fastened byhinges to one side of the top, and a catch to hold it shut. The wholewas now covered with very thin cloth to admit the light, but not soopen as to let the bees through, (Mr. Loucks used cloth made forcheese-strainers. ) I now had a covered frame four and half feet high, 12 inches square at the top, at the bottom 14 by 20, with a door or lidat the top, to let out the bees. On each side of the bottom I tacked apiece of common muslin, near a yard in length. When a swarm is ready toissue, the bottom of this frame is set up before the hive, one edge ofthe bottom rests on the bottom-board, the other against the side of thehive; the top sets off from the hive at an angle of about 45 degrees, under which a brace is set to hold it. The muslin at the bottom is towrap around the hive at the side to prevent the escape of the bees. Theswarm rushes into this without any hesitation. 

When done coming out, the muslin at the bottom is drawn over it, andthe frame is set in an upright position, and allowed to stand a fewminutes for the bees to get quiet in the top. It is now to be laid onits side, the door opened, and the bees hived. In the few trials that Ihave given it, I succeeded without difficulty. But I would remark, thatstocks from which swarms are caught in this way, must not be raised atthe back side, as a part of the swarm would issue there, and not getinto the net. Mr. Loucks had his hive directly on the board; and hetold me he kept them so through the season: the only places of entrancewas a sprout out of the bottom of the front side, about three incheswide by half inch deep, and a hole in the side a few inches up. Youwill thus perceive that stocks from which swarms are hived in this waymust be prepared for it previously. Also, it will be no use to suchbee-keepers as depend on seeing their swarms in the air. It will bebeneficial only in large apiaries, where several swarms are liable toissue at once; the swarming indications well understood, and theapiarian on the lookout. 

SWARMS SOMETIMES RETURN. 

Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes return to the oldstock. Mr. Miner gives a cause for this, very ingenious, and romantic, but unfortunately there are but few facts to sustain this hypothesis, (at least I have not discovered them. ) There are other causes thatappear to me more reasonable; the most common is the inability of theold queen to fly, on account of her burden of eggs, old age, orsomething else. I have sometimes, after the swarm had returned foundthe queen near the stock, and put her back, and the next day she wouldcome out again, and fly without difficulty, (perhaps she had dischargedsome of her eggs. )

Their returning is more frequent in windy weather, or when the sun ispartially obscured by clouds. About three-fourths of them will notre-issue until a young queen is matured, eight or ten days afterwards;and a few, not at all. But when the queen returns with the swarm, theyusually come out again the next day, or day after, and some not tillthe third or fourth. I have known two instances where they issued againthe same day. 

REPETITION PREVENTED. 

Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four days insuccession, but this I generally remedy, as it is often owing to someinability of the queen, and she may be frequently found while the swarmis leaving outside the hive, unable to fly. In such cases it is onlynecessary to have a tumbler ready, and watch for her; and as soon asshe appears, secure her, get the empty hive for the swarm, a sheet, andput down a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The swarm is sure tocome back; the first bees that alight on the hive will set up the call;as soon as this is perceived, lose no time in setting the old stock onthe board, and throwing the sheet over it to keep out the bees. Put thenew one in its place on the stand, and the queen in it; in a fewminutes the swarm will be in the _new_ hive, when it can be removed, and the old one replaced. This I have done many times. But should theswarm begin to cluster in a convenient place, when you have so caughtthe queen, by being expeditious she may be put with the swarm, beforethey have missed her and may be hived in the usual way. 

LIABILITY TO ENTER WRONG STOCKS. 

In all cases, whether you set a new hive in place of the old one ornot, whenever a swarm returns, if other stocks stand close on eachside, they are quite sure to receive a portion of the bees--probably afew hundreds; these are certain to be massacred. To prevent which, itis necessary to throw sheets over them until the swarm has gathered ontheir own hive. This is another reason for plenty of room betweenstocks. Should no queen be discovered during their issue, or return, she should be sought for in the vicinity of the hive, and put back iffound, and the swarm will be likely to issue several days earlier, thanto wait for a young queen. 

When the old queen is actually lost, and the bees have returned to waitfor a young one, it is often ready to leave one or two days short ofthe time required for second swarms. Whether a greater number of beesin the old stock creating more animal heat, matures the chrysalis inless time than a stock thinned by casting a swarm, or some other cause, I cannot say. I mention it because I have known it to occur frequently, but not invariably. A swarm flying, unaccompanied by a queen, isscattered more than usual. 

FIRST ISSUES GENERALLY CHOOSE FAIR WEATHER. 

First swarms are commonly more particular as to weather than afterswarms. They have several days from which to choose, after these royalcells are ready, and before the queens are matured; and they usuallytake a fair one. But here again are exceptions. I once had two firstswarms issue in a wind that kept every branch of tree and bush inagitation to such a degree that it was impossible to find any suchplace to cluster. I expected their return to the old hive; but herewere more exceptions. After repeating a fruitless attempt at thebranches, they gave it up, and came down amongst the grass on "terrafirma. " This occurred after several days of rainy weather. The next daybeing pleasant, twelve issued; almost proving that the wind thepreceding day kept back a part. I also knew one to issue in a shower, that beat many of them to the ground before they could cluster. In thiscase the shower was sudden, the sun shone almost up to the time itbegan to rain. About this time the swarm started when it seemed theywere unwilling to turn about. 

AFTER SWARMS. 

After swarms are second and third issues (or all after the first) froma stock; and quite a different affair from the first, as also are somefirst swarms, when the old queen has been lost, being led out by youngqueens. 

THEIR SIZE. 

Second swarms are usually half as large as the first, the third half aslarge as the second, the fourth still less; with some variations. Igive general features, noticing only the exceptions that occur mostfrequently; others sometimes happen, but so seldom that mentioning themis deemed unnecessary. 

TIME AFTER THE FIRST. 

Whenever the first swarm in a prosperous season _was not kept back byfoul weather_, the first of the young queens in the old stock is readyto emerge in about eight days. We will suppose the first swarm issuedon Sunday; a week from the next Tuesday will be usually as soon as thesecond one need be expected. 

PIPING OF THE QUEEN. 

On the Monday evening previous, or on Tuesday morning, by putting yourear close to the hive, and listening attentively five minutes, you willhear a distinct piping noise, like the word _peep, peep_, utteredseveral times in succession, and then an interval of silence; two ormore may be often heard at the same time; that of one will be shrilland fine, of another hoarse, short and quick. This piping is easilyheard by _any_ one not actually deaf, and not the least danger of itsbeing taken for any humming; in fact, it is not to be mistaken foranything else _but piping_, even when you hear it for the first time. These notes can probably never be heard except when the hive contains aplurality of queens. 

MAY ALWAYS BE HEARD BEFORE AND AFTER SWARM. 

I _never failed to hear it_, previous to a second swarm, or any afterthe first, whenever I listened; and whenever I have listened and notheard it at the proper time, I never knew a second swarm to issue!

TIME OF CONTINUANCE VARIES. 

The time of commencing will be later than this rule in some stocks, ifthe weather is cool, or not many bees left; it may be ten or twelvedays. I once found it fourteen before I heard it. Also the swarm maynot issue in two or three days after you hear it. The longer the swarmdelays, the louder will be the piping; I have heard it distinctlytwenty feet, by listening attentively when I knew one was thus engaged;but at first it is rather faint. By putting your ear against the hiveit may be heard even in the middle of the day, or at any time beforeissuing. The length of time it may be heard beforehand seems to begoverned again by the yield of honey; when abundant it is common forthem to issue the next day; but when somewhat scarce, they will be muchlonger--very often three or four days. In these cases third swarmsseldom occur. 

TIME BETWEEN SECOND AND THIRD ISSUES. 

Piping for third swarms (when they issue) may usually be heard theevening after the second has left, though one day commonly intervenesbetween their issues. 

Here my experience is at variance with many writers, who give severaldays between the second and third. I do not recollect an instance ofmore than three days between, but many in less, several the next, andone the same day of the second! I had an instance of a swarm losing itsqueen (the old one) on its first sally, and returned to wait for theyoung ones; when they were ready, an uncommon number of bees werepresent; three swarms issued in three days! On the fourth, another cameout and returned; the fifth day it left; making four regular swarms infive days. On the eighth, the fifth swarm left! Although I never hadfive swarms from a stock before, yet I expected this, from the fact ofhearing the piping on the next evening after the fourth one had left. The piping had continued in this hive from the evening previous to thefirst swarm till the last one had left. 

NOT ALWAYS TO BE DEPENDED UPON. 

One stock in fifteen may commence piping, yet send out no swarm. Thebees will change their minds about coming out, and kill their queens, or allow the eldest one of them to destroy the others, or some otherway, as they do not always swarm in such circumstances. But when thepiping continues over twenty-four hours, I never knew _but onefailure_! I have known a few (two or three) to commence this piping, while I supposed the old queen was yet present, and had not left thehive, on account of bad weather, but a swarm issued soon after. Also, three instances where I supposed the old queen lost, from some othercause than leading out a swarm, and the stock reared some young ones tosupply her place. It occurred in or near the swarming season, and oneor two issues was the consequence. One case was three weeks in advanceof the season, and the swarm was about half the usual size. When aswarm has been out, and returned at the last of the swarming season, itis much more probable to re-issue, than if it depended on an old queenfor a leader, that had not been out. Such will sometimes be a week orten days later than others. Once I had the first swarm kept back by wetweather, and the second came out on the fifth day after; several otherinstances on the seventh and eighth; and one as late as the sixteenth, after the first. 

A RULE FOR THE TIME OF THESE ISSUES. 

This may be put down as a rule, that all after swarms _must_ be out bythe eighteenth day from the first. I never found an exception, unlessthe following may be considered so: When a swarm left the middle ofMay, and another the first of July, seven weeks after, but two cases ofthis kind have come up, and these I consider rather in the light offirst swarms, as they leave under the same circumstances, leaving thecombs in the old stock filled with brood, queen-cells finished, &c. Astock may cast swarms in June, and a buckwheat swarm in August, on thesame principle. 

WHEN IT IS USELESS TO EXPECT MORE SWARMS. 

Therefore, bee-keepers having but few stocks, will find it unnecessaryto watch their bees when the last of the first swarms came out sixteenor eighteen days before. Much trouble may be thus saved byunderstanding this matter. During my early days in beekeeping, I wishedfor the greatest possible increase of stocks. I had some that had castthe first swarm, and soon after clustered out again. I vainly watchedthem for weeks and months, expecting another swarm. But had Iunderstood the _modus operandi_, as the reader may now understand it, Ishould have been through with all my anxiety, as well as watching, in afortnight. As it was, it lasted two months. I found no one to give meany light on this subject, or even tell me when the swarming season wasover, and I came very near watching all summer!

PLURALITY OF QUEENS DESTROYED. 

When the bees, queens, or all together, decide that no more swarms areto issue, the plurality of queens is destroyed, and but one is left. Itis probable that the oldest and strongest queen dispatches the others, generally while in the cells. 

I once had some artificial queens reared, as an experiment, from commoneggs, on the top of a hive, in a small glass box, where there was roomfor but one comb, which allowed me to see all particulars. 

THE MANNER. 

After the first queen was matured, and had left her cell, I caught herwithin six hours, taking advantage of her younger sisters, which wereyet sealed up, and of course could offer no resistance. She first madean opening that would allow her to reach the abdomen of her competitor(probably this is the most vulnerable). As soon as this wassufficiently large to admit her body, she thrust it in, inflicting thefatal sting. This was then left for another, that soon shared the samefate. If quick and spiteful movements are any indications of hatred, itwas manifested here very plainly. The bees enlarged the orifice anddragged out the now dead queens. 

Now, if I should say that all queens were dispatched in this way, merely because I witnessed it in this case, it would be carrying outthe principle I am endeavoring to avoid: that is, judging all casesfrom one or two solitary facts. As it is, it is somewhat confirmatoryof what some others have said. I will suppose, then, until furtherevidence contradicts it, that the first perfect queen leaving her cell, makes it her business to destroy all rivals in their cradle, as soon asit is decided that no more swarms shall issue. By keeping grass, weeds, &c. , away from about the stock, these dead queens, as they are broughtout, may be frequently found. Such as are removed during the night maybe often found on the floor-board in the morning. I have found a dozenby one stock. Should the stock send out but one swarm, they may befound about the time, or a little before you would listen for thepiping. But should after swarms come out, they will, or may be foundthe next morning after it is decided that no more are to issue. It isvery seldom that all the queens reared are needed. They make it a rule, as far as they have control, to go on safe principles, by having alittle more than just enough. When several such bodies are thrown out, and no piping is heard, no further swarming need be expected. Butshould you hear the piping a day or two after finding a dead queen, youmay yet look for the swarm. 

THEORY DOUBTED. 

It is stated that when the bees decide an after swarm shall issue, thefirst queen matured is not allowed to leave her cell, but kept aprisoner there, and fed until wanted to go forth with the swarm. Thismay be true in some cases (though not satisfactorily proved), but I amquite sure it is not in all. 

When she is confined to her cell, how does she ascertain the presenceof others? By leaving the cell, this knowledge is easily obtained. Huber says she does, and is "enraged at the existence of others, andendeavors to destroy them while yet in the cell, which the workers willnot allow; this is so irritating to her majesty that she utters thispeculiar sound. " Also second and third swarms may contain severalqueens, frequently two, three, and four; even six at one time come out. If these had to bite their way out, after the workers had decided itwas time to start (for it _must be they_ decide it when the queens areshut up), they would hardly be in season. 

AFTER SWARMS DIFFERENT IN APPEARANCE FROM THE FIRST WHEN ABOUT TOISSUE. 

Another thing, when after swarms start, the appearance about theentrance is altogether different from first ones, unless there is anunusual number of bees. I have said that for a little time beforehand, that such were in an apparent tumult, &c. But after swarms seldom giveany such notice. One or more of the young queens may sometimes be seento run out, and back, several times in a few minutes, in a perfectfrenzy; sometimes fly a short distance, and return before the swarmwill get started (which she could not do if confined). The workers seemmore reluctant about leaving than in first swarms, when a motherinstead of a sister is leader. Even after the swarm is in motion, shemay return and enter the hive a moment. No doubt she finds it necessaryto animate or induce as many as possible to leave with her. A personwatching the issue of a second swarm under these circumstances, for thefirst time, and finding the queen leaving first, would very likely_guess_ all must be alike. Perhaps the next one would be different; thefirst thing seen might be the swarm leaving, and no queen discovered atall. But to return to the imprisonment of the queens. I have one otherfact in objection. I once saw a queen running about in a glass hive, while they were piping for a second swarm. She was near the glass, appeared agitated, stopping occasionally to vibrate her wings, whichwas simultaneous with the piping, and seemed to make it. The workersappeared to take but little notice of her. The next day the swarm left. Here was one instance, at least, of her not being confined till thetime of leaving, making an exception, if not a rule. Let this matter beas it may, I admit it makes but little difference to the practicalapiarian, either way; but to the reader whose interest is the naturalhistory of the bee, the truth is important. 

TIME OF DAY, WEATHER, ETC. 

These after swarms are not very particular about the weather; heavywinds, a few clouds, and sometimes a slight sprinkling of rain, willnot _always_ deter them. Neither are they very precise about the timeof day. I have known them in a warm morning to issue before seveno'clock, and after five P. M. These things should be understood;because, when after swarms are expected (of which the piping will givewarning), it is necessary to watch them in weather, and at times whenfirst ones would not venture to leave. 

SWARMS NECESSARY TO BE SEEN. 

It is essential that you see them, that you may know where theycluster, otherwise it might be difficult to find them. They are apt togo farther from the parent stock than others; sometimes fifty rods, andthen settle in two places, perhaps that distance apart, in some high orinconvenient place to get at. (Let me not be misunderstood: I do notsay they all do so, or even the majority; but I wish to say that agreater portion of these swarms do so than of the first. ) If theycluster in two places, a queen may be in each, and they will remain, and when you have hived one part you may think you have all. If onecluster is without a queen, they will join the other if near; but whendistant, will be very likely to return to the old stock soon, unlessput together. I had a swarm light in two places, in exactly oppositedirections from the stock. In one, a good swarm had clustered; in theother, some less than a pint. The small part had one or more queens, the other none. It was perceived at once by their movements. Now, if weprovide a hive for a swarm, and get a few to set up the call orbuzzing, they will not leave till that is stopped. There is generallyno difficulty to start it. The surest way is to jar a portion or alldirectly into the hive. It takes a few minutes to get composed, andmiss the queen. In my case I got them in the hive, and before theymissed the queen, carried them to the small cluster, which I got in adipper and emptied in front of the hive; they entered, and all werepeaceable. You will therefore see the necessity of watching suchswarms, to see if there is no separation, if nothing else. 

RETURNING AFTER SWARMS TO THE OLD STOCK. 

Much has been said about returning all after swarms to the old stock;the advantages of which will depend on the time of issuing; whetherlate or early, the yield of honey, etc. It would be unusual to havemany after swarms without a liberal yield of honey, for the time being;but to tell of its continuance is the question to be answered. Second, and even third swarms, if early in the season, and the honey continuesplentiful, may be hived, and these, together with the old stock, willprosper. Here the apiarian needs a little judgment and experience toguide him. 

WHEN THEY SHOULD BE RETURNED. 

It is always best, if possible, to have good strong families. Whenafter swarms are late it is safest to return them, as the old stockwill need them to replenish the hive, and prepare for winter. Also aless number of worms will infest it, when well provided with bees; andthe chances of box honey are greater. 

METHOD OF DOING IT. 

But the process of returning such requires some little patience andperseverance. I have said there may be a dozen young queens in the oldstock. Now suppose one, two, or more leave with the swarm, and youreturn the whole together, there is nothing to prevent their leadingout the swarm again the next day. Therefore it is policy to keep thequeens back. The least trouble is to hive in the usual way, and letthem stand till the next morning. It will save you the trouble oflooking for more than one, if there should be more, for all but thatare destroyed by that time. There is a chance, also, for the old stockto decide that no more should issue, and allow all but one to be slainthere. When this is the case, and you find the one with the swarm, youwill have no further trouble by their re-issuing. They should bereturned as soon as the next morning, otherwise they might not agree, even when put in the old home. To return them, and find a queen easily, get a wide board a few feet long; let one end rest on the ground, theother near the entrance, that they may enter the hive without flying;then shake out the swarm on the lower end of the board; but few willfly, but soon commence running up towards the hive; the first one thatdiscovers the entrance will set up the call for the others. If they donot discover it, which is the case sometimes, scatter some of them nearit, and they will soon commence marching up, when you should look outfor, and secure the queen, as they spread and give a good chance. Byapplying your ear to the hive, the piping will tell you if they are toissue again. It is evident, if you follow these directions, that theswarm cannot issue many times before their stock of royalty will beexhausted; and when but one queen remains the piping will cease, and nofurther trouble will be had. To prevent these after swarms, somewriters recommend turning over the hive and cutting out all the royalcells but one. This I have found impracticable with a great manystocks. Some of the cells are too near the top to be seen, consequentlythis cannot always be depended upon. As for a rule about returning, itis somewhat difficult to give one. If I should say, return all such asissue after the 20th of June, the variation in the season might be twoor three weeks, even in the same latitude; i. E. , the course of flowersthat had bloomed by that date in one season might, another year, require two weeks more to bring out. Also, the 20th of June, inlatitude of New York City, is as late as the 4th of July in many placesfurther north. I once had a second swarm on the 11th of July, thatwintered well, having nearly filled the hive. Yet, in some seasons, thefirst swarms, of the last of June, have failed to get enough. Insections where much buckwheat is raised, late swarms do more towardsfilling their hives than where there is none. 

MORE CARE NEEDED BY AFTER SWARMS WHEN HIVED. 

Should it be thought best to hive after swarms, and risk the chances, they should receive a little extra attention after the first week ortwo, to destroy the worms; a little timely care may preventconsiderable injury. They are apt to construct more combs in proportionto the number of bees, than others; consequently, such combs cannot beproperly covered and protected. The moth has an opportunity to deposither eggs on them, and, sometimes, entirely destroy them. 

TWO MAY BE UNITED. 

Whenever these swarms issue near enough together, it is best to unitethem. I have said second swarms were generally half as large as thefirst. By this rule, two second swarms would contain as many bees as afirst one, and four of the third, or one of the second issue, and twoof the third, &c. If the first and second are of the ordinary size, Ithink it advisable always to return the third. But in large apiaries itis common for them to issue without any previous warning, just when afirst one is leaving, and crowd themselves into their company, andseeming to be as much at home as though they were equally respectable. 

Whenever the hives containing our swarms are full or very near it, theboxes should be put on without delay, unless the season of honey is sonearly gone as to make it unnecessary. 

I have found it an advantage to hive a few of these very small swarms, on purpose to preserve queens, to supply some old stocks that sometimeslose their own at the extreme end of the swarming season. The cases tobe mentioned at the last of the next chapter. I try and save one forabout every twenty stocks that have swarmed. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

LOSS OF QUEENS. 

OF SWARMS THAT LOSE THEIR QUEEN. 

Swarms that lose their queen the first few hours after being hived, generally return to the parent stock; with the exception that theysometimes unite with some other. If much time has elapsed before theloss, they remain, unless standing on the same bench with another. On aseparate stand they continue their labor, but a large swarm diminishesrapidly, and seldom fills an ordinary-sized hive. One singularcircumstance attends a swarm that is constructing combs without aqueen. I have never seen it noticed by any one, and may not always bethe case, but _every_ instance that has come under my notice, I have sofound it. That is, four-fifths of the combs are drone-cells; why theythus construct them is another subject for speculation, from which Iwill endeavor in this instance to refrain. 

A SUGGESTION AND AN ANSWER. 

It has been suggested as a profitable speculation, "to hive a largeswarm without a queen, and give them a piece of brood-comb containingeggs, to rear one, and then as soon as it is matured, deprive them ofit, giving them another piece of comb, and continue it throughout thesummer, putting on boxes for surplus honey. The bees having no youngbrood to consume any honey, no time will be lost, or taken to nursethem, and as a consequence they will be enabled to store largequantities of surplus honey. "

This appears very plausible, and to a person without experiencesomewhat conclusive. If success depended on some animal whose lease oflife was a little longer, it would answer better to calculate in thisway. But as a bee seldom sees the anniversary of its birthday, and mostof them perish the first few months of their existence, it is badeconomy. It will be found that the largest amount of our surplus honeyis obtained from our prolific stocks. Therefore it is all-importantthat every swarm and stock has a queen to repair this constant loss. 

A DISPUTED QUESTION. 

We now approach another disputed point in natural history, relative tothe queen leaving at any time except when leading out a swarm. Mostwriters say that the young queen leaves the hive, and meets herparamour, the drone, on the wing. Others deny this _positively_, havingwatched a whole summer without seeing her highness leave. Consequentlythey have arrived at the very plausible and apparently consistentconclusion, that nature never intended it to be so, since it musthappen at a time when the existence of the whole family dependsentirely on the life of the queen. The stock at such times contains noeggs or larvæ, from which to rear another, if she should be lost. "Thechances at such times of being devoured by birds, blown away by thewinds, and other casualties, are too many, and it is not probable theCreator would have so arranged it. " But facts are stubborn things; theywill not yield one jot to favor the most "finely-spun hypothesis;" theyare most provokingly obstinate, many times. When man, without thenecessary observation, takes a survey through animated nature, andfinds with scarcely an exception that male and female are about equalin number, he is ready, and often does conclude that one bee amongthousands cannot be the only one capable of reproduction or depositingeggs. Why, the idea is preposterous! And yet only a little observationwill upset this very consistent and analogous reasoning. So it appearsto be with the excursions of the young queens. I was compelled, thoughreluctantly, to admit that they leave the hive. That their purpose isto meet the drones, I cannot at present contradict. Also, that, whenthe queen is once impregnated, it is operative for life, (yet it isanother anomaly), as I never detected her coming out again for thatpurpose. What then is the use of the ten thousand drones that neverfulfil this important duty? It seems, indeed, like a useless waste oflabor and honey, for each stock to rear some twelve or fifteen hundred, when perhaps but one, sometimes not any of the whole number is of anyuse. If the risk is great in the queen's leaving, we find it arrangedadmirably in its not being too frequent. 

A MULTITUDE OF DRONES NEEDED. 

Instinct teaches the bee to make the matters left to them as nearly_sure_ as possible. When they want one queen, they raise half a dozen. If one drone or only half a dozen were reared, the chances of the queenmeeting one in the air would be very much reduced. But when a thousandare in the air instead of one, the chances are a thousand timesmultiplied. If a stock casts a swarm, there is a young queen to beimpregnated, and be got safely back, or the stock is lost. Every timeshe leaves, there is a chance of her being lost, (one in fifteen). Ifthe number of drones was any less than it is, the queen would have torepeat her excursions in proportion, before successful. As it is, somehave to leave several times. The chances and consequences are so great, that on the whole no doubt but it is better to rear a thousandunnecessarily, than to lack one just in time of need. Therefore let usendeavor to be content with the present arrangement, inasmuch as wecould not better it, and probably had we been consulted, would have sofixed "the thing, that it would not go at all. "

But what is the use of the drones in hives that do not swarm, and donot intend it, situated in a large room or very large hives? Suchcircumstances seldom produce swarms, yet as regular as the return ofsummer, a brood of drones appear. What are they for? Suppose the oldqueen in such hive dies, leaving eggs or young larvæ, and a young queenis reared to supply her place. How is she to be impregnated without thedrones? Perhaps they are taught that whenever they can afford it, theyshould have some on hand to be ready for an emergency. I have alreadysaid when bees are numerous, and honey abundant, they never fail toprovide them. I once put a swarm in a glass hive. The queen was acripple, having lost one of her posterior legs; in two months after shewas replaced by one young and perfect. Here was an instance of dronesbeing needed, when no intention of swarming was indicated; the hive wasbut little more than half full. 

THE QUEEN LIABLE TO BE LOST IN HER EXCURSIONS. 

This excursion of the queen, whenever I have witnessed it, always tookplace a little after the middle of the day, when the drones were out inthe greatest numbers. At such times I have seen them leave amid rathermore commotion than usual among the workers. I have watched theirreturn, which varied from three minutes to half an hour, and seen themhover around their own hive, apparently in doubt whether they belongedin that, or the next; in a few instances they have actually settled onthe neighboring hive, and would have there perished, but for myassistance in putting them right. 

THE TIME WHEN IT OCCURS. 

Thus we see that queens are lost on these occasions from some cause, and part of them by entering the wrong hive, perhaps most of them; ifso, it is another good reason for not packing stocks too close. Thehives are very often nearly alike in color and appearance. The queencoming out for the first time in her life, is no doubt confused by thissimilarity. 

The number of such losses in a season has varied: one year the averagewas one in nine, another it was one in thirteen, and another one intwenty. The time from the first swarm also varies from twelve to twentydays. The inexperienced reader should not forget that it is the oldstocks which have cast swarms, where these accidents happen; the oldqueen having left with the first swarm. Also all after swarms areliable to the same loss. I would suggest that these have abundant roomgiven between the hives; if it is necessary to pack close, let it bethe first swarms, where the old queen has no occasion to leave. Havingnever seen this matter fully discussed, I wish to be somewhatparticular, and flatter myself that I shall be able to direct thecareful apiarian how to save a few stocks and swarms annually, that is, if he keeps many. A few years ago, I wrote an article for the AlbanyCultivator. A subscriber of that paper told me a year afterwards thathe saved two stocks the next summer by the information; they were worthat least five dollars each, enough to pay for his paper ten years ormore. 

When a stock casts but one swarm, the queen having no competitors tointerfere with her movements, will leave in about fourteen days, if theweather is fair; but should an after swarm leave, the oldest of theyoung queens will probably go with that, of course: then, it must belater before the next is ready: it may be twenty days, or even more;those with after swarms will vary from one to six. It _always must_occur when no eggs or larvæ exist, and no means left to repair thisloss; a loss it is, and a serious one; the bees are in as much troubleas their owner, and a great deal more, they seeming to understand theconsequences, and he, if he knows nothing of the matter, has notrouble. Should he now, for the first time, learn the nature of it, hewill at the same time understand the remedy. 

INDICATIONS OF THE LOSS. 

The next morning after a loss of this kind has occurred, andoccasionally at evening, the bees may be seen running about in thegreatest consternation, outside, to and fro on the sides. Some will flyoff a short distance and return; one will run to another, and then toanother, still in hopes, no doubt, of finding their lost sovereign! Aneighboring hive close by, on the same bench, will probably receive aportion, which will seldom resist an accession under suchcircumstances. All this will be going on while other hives are quiet. Towards the middle of the day, this confusion will be less marked; butthe next morning it will be exhibited again, though not so plainly, andcease after the third, when they become apparently reconciled to theirfate. 

They will continue their labors as usual, bringing in pollen and honey. Here I am obliged to differ with writers who tell us that all laborwill now cease. I hope the reader will not be deceived by supposingthat because the bees are bringing in pollen, that they _must_ have aqueen; I can assure you it is not always the case. 

THE RESULT. 

The number of bees will gradually decrease, and be all gone by theearly part of winter, leaving a good supply of honey, and an extraquantity of bee-bread, as before mentioned, because there has been noyoung brood to consume it. This is the case when a large family wasleft at the time of the loss. When but few bees are left, it is verydifferent; the combs are unprotected by a covering of bees; the mothdeposits her eggs on them, and the worms soon finish up the whole. Yetthe bees from the other stocks will generally first remove the honey. 

AGE OF BEES INDICATED. 

Hundreds of bee-keepers lose some of their stocks in this way, and canassign no reasonable cause. "Why, " say they, "there wasn't twenty beesin the hive; it was all full of honey, " or worms, as the case may be. "Only a short time before, it was full of bees; I got three good swarmsfrom it, and it always had been first rate, but all at once the beeswere gone. I don't understand it!" Such bee-keepers cannot understandhow rapidly a family of bees diminish, when there is no queen toreplenish with young this mortality of the old ones. I doubt whetherthe largest and best family possibly could be made to exist six months, without a queen for their renewal, except, perhaps, through the winter. 

When standing close on one bench, they are gone sooner than if onseparate stands, as they often join a neighboring hive when they canwalk to it. 

NECESSITY OF CARE. 

As this tumult cannot be seen but a few days at most, it is well--yes, it is necessary--to make it a duty to glance at the hives at thisperiod after swarming, _every morning_; a glance is sufficient to tellyou of the fact. Remember to reckon from the date of the first issue;this occurs when the first royal cells are sealed over, and is the bestcriterion as to when the queen will leave. If the first swarm issue andreturn, it can make no difference; reckon from their first issuing. 

REMEDY. 

When you discover a loss, first ascertain if there is any after swarmto be expected from another stock, (by listening for the piping); ifso, wait till it issues, and obtain a queen from that for your stock;even if there is but one, take it, and let the bees return; they wouldbe likely to come out again the next day; if not, it is very often nogreat loss. 

Should no such swarm be indicated, go to a stock that has cast a firstswarm within a week; smoke it and turn it over, as before directed, find a royal cell, and with a broad knife cut it out, being careful notto injure it. This must now be secured in the other hive in its naturalposition, the lower end free from any obstacle, that would interferewith the queen leaving it. It will make but little difference whetherat the top or bottom, providing it is secure from falling. 

I generally introduce it through a hole in the top, taking care to findone that will allow the cell to pass down between two combs. It beinglargest at the upper end, the combs each side will sustain it, andleave the lower end free. In a few hours the bees will secure itpermanently to the combs with wax. This operation cannot be performedin a chamber hive, as it is impossible to see the arrangement of thecombs through the holes. To put it in at the bottom is some moretrouble; the difficulty is, to fasten it, and prevent it resting on theend. I have done it as follows: Get an _old_ thick piece of dry combsome three inches square; cut out an inch of the middle. At rightangles with this, in one edge in the centre, make another to intersectit, just the size of the cell, and have the lower end reach into theopening. This comb will keep it in the right position, and may rest onthe floor-board. It can now be put in the hive, cutting out a piece ofcomb to make room for it if necessary. 

Soon after such cell is introduced, the bees are quiet. In a few daysit hatches, and they have a queen as perfect as if it had been one oftheir own rearing. This queen of course will be necessitated to leavethe hive, and will be just as liable to be lost, but no more so thanothers, and must be watched the same. It is unnecessary to look for acell in a stock that has cast its first swarm more than a week before, as they are generally destroyed by that time, (sometimes short of it, )unless they intend to send out an after swarm. 

MARK THE DATE OF SWARMS ON THE HIVE. 

Should you have so many stocks that you cannot remember the date ofeach swarm without difficulty, it is a good plan to mark the date onone side or corner of the hive, as it issues. You can then tell at oncewhere to look for a cell when wanted. 

It will sometimes happen that a queen may be lost at the extreme end ofthe swarming season, when no other stock contains such cells. I thenlook around for the poorest stock or swarm that I have on hand, onethat I can afford to sacrifice, if it possesses a queen, to save theone that has sustained this loss; this is not often the case, but issometimes. I have a few times put just bees enough with the queen tokeep her in a box, and kept them for this purpose, as was mentioned inthe last chapter. When introduced, the bees are generally killed, butthe queen is preserved. 

OBTAINING A QUEEN FROM WORKER BROOD. 

There is yet another method to be adopted, and that is, to obtain apiece of brood-comb containing workers' eggs, or larvæ very young. Youwill generally find it without much trouble, in a young swarm that ismaking combs; the lower ends usually contain eggs; take a piece fromone of the middle sheets, two or three inches long, (you will probablyuse smoke by this time without telling). Invert the hive that is toreceive it, put the piece edgewise between the combs, if you can spreadthem apart enough for the purpose; they will hold it there, and thenthere will be ample room to make the cells. They will nearly alwaysrear several queens. I have counted nine several times, which were allthey had room for. But yet I have very little confidence in suchqueens, they are almost certain to be lost. 

THEY ARE POOR DEPENDENCE. 

Therefore I would recommend getting a royal cell whenever it ispractical. There is yet another advantage; you will have a queen readyto lay eggs two or three weeks earlier, than when they are compelled tocommence with the egg. I have put such piece of brood-comb in a smallglass box on the top of the hive instead of the bottom, because it wasless trouble, but in this case the eggs were all removed in a shorttime; whether a queen was reared in the hive or not I cannot say; butthis I know, I never obtained a prolific queen, after repeatedexperiments in this way. 

It would appear that I have been more unfortunate with queens reared inthis way, than most experimenters. I have no difficulty to get themformed to all appearance perfect, but lose them afterwards. Now whetherthis arose from some lack of physical development, by taking grubs toofar advanced to make a perfect change, or whether they were reared solate in the season, that most of the drones were destroyed, and thequeen to meet one had to repeat her excursions till lost, I am yetunable to _fully_ determine. To test the first of these questions, Ihave a few times removed all the larvæ from the comb; leaving nothingbut eggs, that all the food given them might be "royal pap, " from thecommencement, and had no better success so far. Yet occasionallyprolific queens have been reared when I could account for their originin no other way but from worker eggs. But you will find they are not tobe depended upon generally. 

Sometimes, after all our endeavors, a stock or two will remaindestitute of a queen. These, if they escape the worms, will generallystore honey enough in this section to winter a good family. This willhave to be introduced, of course, from another hive, containing aqueen; but this belongs to Fall management. 

As respects the time that elapses from the impregnation of the queentill the commencement of egg laying, I cannot tell, but guess it mightbe about two or three days. I have driven out the bees twenty-one daysafter the first swarm, when no second swarm had issued--the young queencame out on the fourteenth day. I found eggs and some very young larvæ. When it is remembered that eggs remain three days before they hatch, itshows that the first of these must have been deposited some four orfive days. When writers tell us the exact time to an hour (46 or 48)from impregnation to laying, I am willing to admit the thing in thiscase, but feel just as if I would like to ask how they managed to findout the fact; by what sign they knew when a queen returned from anexcursion, whether she had been successful or not, in her amours; or, whether another effort would have to be made; and then, how theymanaged to know exactly when the first egg was laid. 

Occasionally a queen is lost at other than the swarming season, averaging about one in forty. It is most frequent in spring; at leastit is generally discovered then. The queen may die in the winter, andthe bees not give us any indications till they come out in spring. (Occasionally they may all desert the hive, and join another. ) If weexpect to ascertain when a queen is lost at this season, we must noticethem just before dark on the first warm days--because the mornings areapt to be too cool for any bees to be outside--any unusual stir, orcommotion, similar to what has been described, shows the loss. This isthe worst time in the year to provide the remedy, unless there shouldhappen to be some very poor stock containing a queen, that we mightlose any way--then it might be advisable to sacrifice it to save theother, especially if the last contained all the requisites of a goodstock except a queen. Some eight or ten, that I have managed in thisway, have given me full satisfaction. I have at other times let them gotill the swarming season, and then procured a queen, or introduced asmall swarm; at which time they are so reduced as to be worth butlittle, even when not affected by the worms. To obviate this loss inthis way, it might be an advantage to transfer the bees to the nextstock, if it was not too full already; or the bees of the next stock tothis. Let the age and condition of the combs, quantity of stores, &c. , decide. 

CHAPTER XV. 

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 

PRINCIPLES SHOULD BE UNDERSTOOD. 

Artificial swarms can be made with safety at the proper season. To thebee-keeper who wishes to increase his stocks, it will be an advantageto understand some of the principles. I have had some little experiencethat has led to different conclusions from those of some others. I haveseen it stated, and found the assertion repeated by nearly everywriter, that "whenever bees were deprived of their queen, if they onlypossessed eggs or young larvæ, they would not fail to rear another, "&c. There are numerous instances of their doing this, but it is not tobe depended upon, especially when left in a hive full of combs, as thefollowing experiments tend to prove. 

SOME EXPERIMENTS. 

Several years since I had a few stocks well supplied with bees, andevery indication of swarming present, such as clustering out, &c. , butthey pertinaciously adhered to the old stock, through the wholeswarming season! Others apparently not as well supplied with bees threwoff swarms. I had but few stocks, and was very anxious to increase thenumber; but these were provokingly indifferent to my wishes. Taking theassertions of these authors for facts, I reasoned thus: In allprobability there are eggs enough in each of those stocks. Why notdrive out a portion of the bees, with the old queen, and leave about asmany as if a swarm had issued? Those left will then raise a queen, andcontinue the old stock, and I shall have six instead of the three, thathave been so obstinate. Accordingly, I divided each, examined and foundeggs and larvæ. Of course all _must be right_. Now, thought I, mystocks can be doubled at least annually. If they do not swarm, I candrive them. 

THE RESULT UNSATISFACTORY. 

My swarms prospered, the old stocks seemed industrious, bringing inpollen in abundance, which to me at _that_ time, was conclusive thatthey had a queen, or soon would have. I continued to watch them withmuch interest, but somehow, after a few weeks, there did not seem to bequite as many bees; a few days later, I was quite _sure_ there was not. I examined the combs, and behold there was not a cell containing ayoung bee of any age, not even an egg in any one of these old stocks. My visionary anticipations of future success speedily retrograded aboutthis time. 

I had, it is true, my new swarms in condition to winter, although notquite full; but the old ones were not, and nothing was gained. I hadsome honey, a great deal of bee-bread and old black comb. Had I letthem alone, and put on boxes, I should have probably obtainedtwenty-five or thirty pounds of pure honey from each, worth five timesas much as what I did get; besides, the old stocks, even with the oldcomb, would have been better supplied with both honey and bees;altogether much better, as stocks for wintering. Here was aconsiderable loss, merely by not understanding the matter. 

I carefully looked the bees over, and ascertained to a certainty thatneither of them had a queen. I smothered what few there was left in thefall. I then knew of no better way. I had been told that the barbaroususe of fire and brimstone was part of the "luck;" that a morebenevolent system would cause the bees "to run out, " &c. 

FURTHER EXPERIMENTS. 

Subsequent to these experiments, I thought perhaps the jarring of thehives in driving might have some effect on the bees, and prevent theirrearing a queen. This idea suggested the dividing hive, when thedivision could be made quietly; but success was yet uncertain. I wastold to confine the bees in the old stock twenty-four hours or more, after driving out a swarm; this I tried, with no better results. Again, I drove out the swarm, looked out the queen, and returned her to theold stock, compelling the new swarm to raise one. To be certain theydid so, I constructed a small box about four inches square, by two inthickness; the sides glass. In this I put the piece of brood-combcontaining eggs and larvæ, and then put it on the hive containing theswarm, having holes for communication, a cover to keep it dark, &c. They were very sure to rear queens, but from some cause were lost afterthey were matured. 

Now, if others have been more successful in these experiments thanmyself, it indicates that some favorable circumstances attended themthat did not me. I have not the least doubt but the result will befavorable sometimes. Yet from the foregoing, I became satisfied thatnot one of these methods could be relied upon. Instead of constructinga queen's cell, and then removing the egg or larva to it from anothercell, I always found that the cell containing such egg or larva waschanged from the horizontal to the perpendicular; such cells as were inthe way below were cut off, probably using the material in forming onefor royalty, which, when finished, contains as much material as fiftyor a hundred others. 

My experiments did not end here. I can now make artificial swarms, andsucceed nine times in ten with the first effort, and the reader can aseasily do the same. It must be in the swarming season, or as soon asthe first regular swarm issues. You want some finished royal cells thatany stock having cast a swarm will furnish, (unless in rare instances, where they are too far up among the combs to be seen. )

A SUCCESSFUL METHOD. 

When you are all ready, take a stock that can spare a swarm; if beesare on the outside, raise the hive on wedges, and drive them in with alittle water, and disturb them gently with a stick. Now smoke andinvert it, setting the empty hive over. If the two hives are of onesize, and have been made by a workman, there will be no chance for thebees to escape, except the holes in the side; these you will stop; (nomatter about a sheet tied around it. ) With a light hammer or stick, strike the hive a few times lightly, and then let it remain fiveminutes. This is very essential, because most of the bees, if allowedthe opportunity, will fill themselves with honey after suchdisturbance. 

All regular swarms go forth so laden. A supply is necessary when badweather follows soon after. It is also used in forming wax, a verynecessary article in a new hive. The amount of honey carried out of astock by a good swarm, together with the weight of the bees (which isnot much), will vary from five to eight pounds. 

This, allowing time for the bees to fill their sacks, and supplying theold stock with a royal cell, I believe is entirely original: theimportance of which the reader can judge. 

ADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD. 

It is very plain that a queen from such finished cell must be ready todeposit eggs several days sooner than by any other method that we canadopt. It is also clear that if we have a dozen queens depositing eggsby the 10th of June, that our bees are increasing faster, on the whole, than if but half that number are engaged in it for a month later. Thereis yet another advantage. The sooner a young queen can take the placeof the old one in maternal duties, the less time will be lost inbreeding, the more bees there will be to defend the combs from themoth, and the surest guaranty for surplus honey. 

When the bees have filled their sacks, proceed to drive them into theupper hive by striking the lower one rapidly from five to ten minutes. A loud humming will mark their first movement. When you think half ortwo-thirds are out, raise the hive and inspect progress. They are notat all disposed to sting in this stage of proceeding, even when theyescape outside. If full of honey, they are seldom provoked toresentment. The only care will be not to crush too many that getbetween the edges of the hives. The loud buzzing is no sign of anger. If your swarm is not large enough, continue to drive till it is. Whendone, the new hive should be set on the stand of the old one. A fewminutes will decide whether you have the queen with the swarm, as theyremain quiet: otherwise uneasy, and run about, when it will benecessary to drive again. 

If both hives are one color, set the old one two feet in front; but ifof different colors, a little more. I prefer this position to settingthe old stock on one side, even when there is room; yet it can make butlittle difference. Should you set it on one side, let the distance beless. When the old stock is taken much farther than this rule, all thebees that have marked the location (and all the old ones will have doneso) will go back to the old stand, and none but young bees that havenever left home will remain. The same will be the case with the newswarm if moved off. It will not do to depend on the old queen keepingthem, as she does when they swarm out naturally. This has been myexperience. Try it, reader, and be satisfied, by putting either of thehives fifteen or twenty feet distant. 

Before you turn over the old stock, look among the combs as far aspossible for queens' cells; if any contain eggs or larvæ, you maysafely risk their rearing a queen; but otherwise wait till nextmorning, or at least twenty-four hours, then go to a stock that hascast a swarm, and obtain a finished royal cell, as before directed, andintroduce it. You will have a queen here as soon as if it had been leftin the original hive, and no risk of an after swarm, because there isbut one. But when there are young queens in the cells at the time ofdriving, after swarms may issue. Should a queen-cell be introducedimmediately, it is more liable to be destroyed than after waitingtwenty-four hours; and then is not always safe. After it has had timeto hatch, (which is about eight days after being sealed), cut it out, and examine it: if the lower end is open, it indicates that a perfectqueen has left it, and all is safe; but if it is mutilated or open atthe side, it is probable that the queen was destroyed before maturity, in which case, another cell will have to be given them. 

ARTIFICIAL SWARMS ONLY SAFE NEAR THE SWARMING SEASON. 

By what I have said about artificial swarms, it would appear that it isunsafe at any time but the swarming season; that is my opinion. It maydo a little in advance or a little after, providing royal cells can behad. By feeding as directed, (in Chapter IX. ) you may induce a stock tosend out a swarm some days in advance of the regular season, therebygiving you a chance for these cells somewhat early. 

SOMETIMES HAZARDOUS. 

To make such swarms at any time when the bees are destroying drones, would be extremely hazardous, not only on account of the young queenbeing impregnated, but their massacre denotes a scarcity of honey. Therefore I would advise never to make swarms, or drive out bees atsuch periods, when it can be avoided, without spare honey is on hand tofeed them. 

SOME OBJECTIONS. 

It has been argued by some, and with much reason, that "nature is thebest guide, and it is better to let the bees have their own way aboutswarming--if honey is abundant, and the stock is in condition to sparea swarm, their own instincts will teach them to construct royal cells;if it fails before they are ready, and the royal brood is destroyed, itis because the existence of the swarm would be precarious, and it isbest not to issue. " I will grant that in many instances it is better. The chance is better for surplus honey; the stock is quite sure to bein condition to winter; and some judgment is required to tell when astock can spare a swarm. 

But yet, we are sometimes anxious to increase our stocks to the utmostthat safety will allow, and often have some that can spare a swarm aswell as not, but refuse to leave; perhaps commence preparations, and ina few days abandon them. Now it is evident that as long as manycontinue such preparation, that honey is sufficiently abundant to putthe safety of the swarm beyond hazard; some stocks will swarm whilethese others just as good, (that had abandoned it before) and have notnow begun again, to be in time before a partial failure of honey, andsome may not have commenced in season. 

NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL SWARMS EQUALLY PROSPEROUS. 

I can see no difference in artificial or natural swarms of equal size, at the same time. By taking the matter in time into our own hands, withthe rules given, we make a sure thing of it, that is, we are sure toget the swarms, when if left to the bees it would be uncertain, and nogreater risk afterwards than with natural issues. 

THIS MATTER TOO OFTEN DELAYED. 

I am aware that this matter will be apt to be put off too long; "waitand see if they don't swarm, " will be the motto of too many, and whenthe season is over, drive them. Perhaps a good swarm has set outsidethe hive, all through the best of the honey season, and done nothing, while they could have half filled a hive; but this is all lost now, aswell as the best chances for getting cells. Let me impress thenecessity of doing it in season, when it will pay. If you intend tohave a swarm from every stock that can spare one, begin when naturepoints out the proper time, which is, when the regular ones begin toissue. It must, indeed, be a poor season when there are none. 

IS THE AGE OF THE QUEEN IMPORTANT?

There is another object effected in this way, considered by someapiarians as very important. It is the change of the queens in the oldstock. A young queen is thought to be "much more prolific than an oldone. " They even recommend keeping none "over two or three years old, "and give directions how they may be renewed. But as I have been unableto discover any difference in relation to the age in this respect, Ishall not at present take much time to discuss it. It is well enough, when we can take our choice without trouble, to preserve a young queen. When we consider that there are but few queens but what will depositthree times as many eggs in a season as are matured, it looks as if itwould hardly pay to take much trouble to change them. At what time thequeen becomes barren from old age, I presume has never yet been fullydetermined. 

A friend of mine has had a stock in a large room eight years, that hasnever swarmed, and is still prosperous! I think it very probable thatthis queen will gradually decay, and possibly become barren, some weeksbefore she dies; if so, this stock will soon die off. A few such caseswill probably occur in swarming hives, perhaps one in fifty, butgenerally such old and feeble queens are lost when they leave with theswarm, especially in windy weather. As long as they are able to go withthe swarm, and sometimes when they are not, I have found themsufficiently prolific for all purposes. I would rather risk theirfecundity, and hive the swarm, than to allow the bees to return to theparent stock, and wait eight or nine days for a young queen to mature. A great many will remain idle, even if there is room to work in theboxes. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

PRUNING. 

Notwithstanding I have given the method of pruning in the chapter onhives, (page 23, Chapter II. ) it will be necessary to give the tyro inbee-culture a few more particulars. The season for doing it is ofimportance. 

DIFFERENT OPINIONS AS TO TIME. 

The month of March has been recommended by several; others preferApril, August, or September. Here, as usual, I shall have to differfrom them all, preferring still another period, for which I offer myreasons, supposing, of course, that the reader is conscious of afreeman's privilege, that is, to adopt whatever method he thinksproper, on this, as on any other point. 

ANOTHER TIME PREFERRED. 

There is but one period from February till October, when prosperousstocks are free from young brood in the combs. If combs are taken outwhen occupied, there must be a loss of all the young bees they contain;which may be avoided. The old queen leaves with the first swarm; allthe eggs she leaves in the worker-cells will be matured in abouttwenty-one days, consequently this is the time to clear out the oldcombs with the least waste. A few drones will be found in the cells, that would require a few days more to hatch, but these are of noaccount. Also a few very young larvæ and some eggs may be sometimesfound, the product of the young queen; these few must be wasted, but asthe bees have expended no labor upon them as yet, it is better tosacrifice these than the greater number left by her mother, which haveconsumed their portion of food; the bees have sealed them up, and nowonly require the necessary time to mature, to make a valuable additionto the stock. 

SHOULD NOT BE DELAYED. 

Should this operation be put off for a time much longer than threeweeks, the young queen will so fill the combs again as to make it aserious loss. Therefore, I wish to urge strongly attention to thispoint at the proper season. If you think it unimportant to mark thedate of your first swarms for the purposes mentioned in another place, it will be found very convenient here, for those that need pruning. 

It is also recommended by some, to take only a part, say one-third orhalf, in a season; thereby taking two or three years to renew thecombs. This is advisable only when the family is very small. As thisspace made by pruning cannot be filled without wax and labor, oursurplus honey will be proportionate to its extent. Now suppose we takeout half the old combs, and get half a yield of box honey this year, and the same next, or make a full operation of it and get none thisyear, and a full one next. What is the difference? There is none inpoint of honey, but some in trouble, and that is in favor of a fulloperation at once. We have to go through with about the same trouble toget one-third or half as to take the whole. 

OBJECTION TO PRUNING. 

The objection to this mode of renewing combs generally, will be thefear of getting stung. But I can assure you there is but little danger, not as much as to walk among the hives in a warm day. Only begin right, use the smoke, and work carefully, without pinching them, and you willescape unhurt generally. 

STOCKS PRUNED NOW ARE BETTER FOR WINTER. 

Besides the advantage of saving a large brood by pruning at thisseason, such stocks will usually refill before fall, and are muchbetter for wintering, which is not the case when it is done later. Wemust of necessity then waste the brood, and have a large spaceunoccupied with combs through the winter. But few combs can then bemade, and those few must be at the expense of their winter stores, unless we resort to feeding. 

These objections apply with greater force to pruning in March or April. The loss of brood is of much more consequence now, than in mid-summer, or even later, and a space to be filled with combs is a seriousdisadvantage. It is important that the bees should devote their wholeattention now to rearing brood, and be ready to cast their swarms asearly as possible. One _early_ swarm is worth two late ones. Suppose astock, instead of collecting food and nursing its young, is compelledto expend its honey and labor in secreting wax and constructing combsbefore it can proceed with breeding advantageously, it _must ofnecessity_ be some weeks later. 

Further, I have always found it best to have the bees out of the way, during this operation. It will be found much more difficult to drivethe bees out of a hive in the cool weather of March or April, than insummer, as they seem unwilling to shift their warm quarters and go intoa cold hive. 

It is presumed the reader will bear in mind the disadvantages alreadygiven of too frequently renewing combs; the little value of combs forstoring honey, _for our use_, after being once used for breeding; thenecessity of the bees using them as long as they possibly will answer;and not compel them to be filling the hive, when they might be storinghoney of the purest quality in boxes, &c. 

Vide remarks on this subject on page 22, Chapter II. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

DISEASED BROOD. 

This, like many other chapters in this work, is probably new, as I, never saw one thus headed. A few newspaper discussions are about allthat have yet appeared on this subject. 

NOT GENERALLY UNDERSTOOD. 

This disease is probably of recent origin. Mr. Miner, it appears, knewnothing of it until he moved from Long Island to Oneida County, in thisState. Mr. Weeks, in a communication to the N. E. Farmer, says, "Sincethe potato rot commenced, I have lost one-fourth of my stocks annually, by this disease;" at the same time adds his fears, that "this race ofinsects will become extinct from this cause, if not arrested. " (PerhapsI ought to mention, that he speaks of it as attacking the "chrysalis"instead of the larva; but as every thing else about it agrees exactly, there is but little, doubt of its being all one thing. )

MY OWN EXPERIENCE. 

My first experience will probably go back to a date beyond many others;it is almost twenty years since the first case was noticed. I had keptbees but four or five years when I discovered it in one of my beststocks; in fact, it was No. 1 in May and first of June. It cast noswarm through the summer; and now, instead of being crowded with bees, it contained but very few; so few, that I dared not attempt to winterit. What was the matter? I had then never dreamed of ascertaining thecondition of a stock while there were bees in the way, but was like theunskilful physician who is obliged to wait for the death of hispatient, that he may dissect and discover the cause. I accordinglyconsigned what few bees there were to the "brimstone pit. "

DESCRIPTION OF DISEASE. 

A "_post mortem_" examination revealed the following circumstances:Nine-tenths of the breeding-cells were found to contain young bees inthe larva state, stretched out at full length, sealed over, dead, black, putrid, and emitting a disagreeable stench. Now here was onelink in the chain of cause and effect. I learned why there was ascarcity of bees in the hive. What should have constituted theirincrease, had died in the cells; none of them were removed, consequently but few cells, where any bees could be matured, were left. 

THE CAUSE UNCERTAIN. 

But when I attempted the next link in the chain (to wit) What causedthe death of this brood just at this stage of development? I wasobliged to stop. Not the least satisfaction could be obtained. Allinquiries among the bee-keepers of my acquaintance were met withprofound ignorance. They had "never heard of it!" No work on bees thatI consulted ever mentioned it. 

Subsequently, I had more stocks in the same situation. I found, whenever the disease existed to any extent, that the few bees maturedwere insufficient to replace those that were lost; that the colonyrapidly declined, and _never afterwards cast a swarm_!

REMEDIAL EXPERIMENTS. 

As for remedies, I tried pruning out all those combs containing brood, leaving only such as contained honey, and let the bees construct newfor breeding. It was "no use, " these new combs were invariably filledwith diseased brood! The only thing effectual was to drive out thebees, into an empty hive. In this way, when done in season, I generallysucceeded in rearing a healthy stock. But here was a loss of allsurplus honey, and a swarm or two that might have been obtained from ahealthy one. 

PUBLIC INQUIRY AND ANSWERS. 

I had so many cases of the kind, that I became somewhat alarmed, andmade inquiry through the Cultivator, (an agricultural paper, ) as to acause, and remedy, offering a "reward for one that would not fail whenthoroughly tested, " &c. Mr. Weeks, in answer, said, "that cold weatherin spring chilling the brood was the cause. " (This was several yearsprior to his article in the N. E. Farmer. ) Another gentleman said, "deadbees and filth that accumulated during winter, when suffered to remainin the spring, was the cause. " A few years after, another correspondentappeared in the Cultivator, giving particulars of his experience, proving very conclusively to himself and many others, that cold was thecause. Having mislaid the paper containing his article, I will endeavorto quote correctly from memory. He had "three swarms issue in one day;the weather during the day changed from very hot to the other extreme, producing frost in many places the next morning. These swarms had leftbut few bees in the old stocks, and the cold forced them up among thecombs for mutual warmth; the brood near the bottom, thus left withoutbees to protect it with animal heat, became chilled, and theconsequence was diseased larvæ. " He then reasoned thus: "If the eggs ofa fowl, at any time near the end of incubation, become chilled from anycause, it stops all further development. Bees are developed bycontinued heat, on the same principle, and a chill produces the sameeffect, &c. ; afterwards, other swarms issued under precisely similarcircumstances; but these old stocks were covered with a blanket throughthe night, which enabled the bees to keep at the bottom of the hive. Ina few days, enough were hatched to render this trouble unnecessary. These last remained healthy. " He further says, that "last spring wasthe first time I ever knew them to become diseased before swarming hadthinned the population. The weather was remarkably pleasant throughApril. The bees obtained great quantities of pollen and honey, and bythis means extended their brood further than usual at this season. Subsequent chilly weather in May, caused the bees to desert a portionof brood, which were destroyed by the chill. "

Now this is reasoning from cause to effect very consistently. 

ANSWERS NOT SATISFACTORY. 

Had I no experience further than this, I should, perhaps, restsatisfied as to the cause, and should endeavor to apply the remedy. Several other writers have appeared in different papers, on thissubject, and nearly all who assign a cause have given this one as themost probable. Now I have known the chrysalis in a few stocks to bechilled and destroyed by a sudden turn of cold weather, yet these wereremoved by the bees soon after, and the stocks remained healthy. To methe cause assigned appears inadequate to produce _all_ the results withthe larvæ. After close, patient observation of fifteen years, I havenever yet been wholly satisfied that any one instance among my bees, was thus produced. 

A CAUSE SUGGESTED. 

We are all familiar to some extent with the contagious diseases of thehuman family, such as small-pox, whooping-cough, and measles, and theirrapid spread from a given point, &c. We must also admit that some causeor causes, adequate to the effect, must have produced the first case. To contagion, then, I would attribute the spread of this disease of ourbees, at least nineteen cases in twenty. I will admit, if you please, that one stock in twenty or fifty may be somewhat affected by a chillto a small extent. It is only a portion of the brood that is indanger--only such as have been sealed over, and before they haveprogressed to the chrysalis state, are attacked. How many then canthere be in a hive at any one time, in just the right stage ofdevelopment to receive the fatal chill? Of course there will be some;but they should be confined to the cells near the bottom, where thebees had left them exposed. These should be all; and these few wouldnever seriously damage the stock. Why then does this disease, whenthoroughly started, spread so rapidly throughout all the combs in thehive? Will it be said that the chill is repeated every few days throughthe summer? Or will it be admitted that something else may continue it?

I think there must be other causes, besides the chill, even to startit, in most cases. As our practice will be in accordance with the viewwe take of this matter, and the result of our course will be somewhatimportant, I will give some of the reasons that have led to thisconclusion. 

REASONS FOR THE OPINION. 

For instance, I had all the bees of a good swarm leave the hive inMarch; after flying a time, they united with another good stock, makingdouble the usual number of bees at this season; enough to keep thebrood sufficiently warm at any time; if other stocks with half or aquarter of the number could. By the middle of June, the bees were muchreduced, and had not cast a swarm. It was examined, and the brood wasfound badly diseased. My best and most populous stocks, in spring, arejust as liable, and I might add more so, than smaller or weakerfamilies. I have had two large swarms unite, and were hived together, that were diseased the next autumn. These cases prove strongly, if notconclusively, that animal heat is not the only requisite. The fact thatwhen I had pruned out all affected comb from a diseased stock, and lefthoney in the top and outside pieces, and the bees constructed new forbreeding, and the brood in such were invariably affected, though only afew at first, and increasing as the combs were extended; led me tosuppose that it was a contagious disease, and the virus was containedin the honey. Some of it had been left in these stocks, and veryprobably the bees had fed it to the brood. To test this principle stillfurther, I drove all the bees from such diseased stocks, strained thehoney, and fed it to several young healthy swarms soon after beinghived. When examined a few weeks after, every one, without anexception, had caught the contagion. 

Here then is a clue to the cause of this disease spreading, whether wehave its origin or not. We will now see if we can trace it through, ifthere is any consistency in its transfer from one stock to another. 

CAUSE OF ITS SPREADING. 

Suppose one stock has caught the infection, but a small portion of thebrood is dead. In the heat of the hive, it soon becomes putrid; othercells adjoining with larvæ of the right age are soon in the samecondition. All the breeding combs in the hive become one putrid mass, with an exception, perhaps, of one in ten, twenty or a hundred, thatmay perfect a bee. Thus the increase of bees is not enough to replacethe old ones that are continually dying off. It is plain, therefore, that this stock _must_ soon dwindle down to a very small family. Nowlet a scarcity of honey occur in the fields, this poor stock cannot beproperly guarded, and is easily plundered of its contents by theothers. Honey is taken that is in close proximity to dead bodies, corrupting by thousands, creating a pestilential vapor, of which it hasprobably absorbed a portion. The seeds of destruction are by this meanscarried into healthy stocks. In a short time, these in turn fallvictims to the scourge; and soon dwindle away, when some other strongstock is able to carry off _their_ stores; and only stop, perhaps, atthe last stock! The moth is ever ready with her burden of eggs, whichshe now without hindrance deposits directly on the combs. In a shorttime the worms finish up the whole business, and are judged guilty ofthe whole charge; merely because they are found carrying out effectsthat speedily follow such causes. 

Let the reader who doubts this theory, simply strain out honey, vitiated in this way, and feed it to a few stocks or swarms, that arehealthy; and if they escape, communicate the fact to the public. Butshould he become satisfied that such honey is poison to his bees, hewill with me, and all others interested, wish to stop this growingevil. 

NOT EASILY DETECTED AT FIRST. 

It is very difficult to detect the first hundred or two that die in astock. But when nine-tenths of the breeding cells hold putrid larvæ, there is but very little trouble in making out a correct diagnosis. Thebees are few and inactive. When passing the hive our olfactories aresaluted with a nauseous effluvia, arising from this corrupting mass. Now, if we wish, or expect to escape, the most severe penalty, ourneglect must never allow this extent of progression before such a stockis removed. Therefore, we must watch symptoms--ascertain the presenceof the disease _at the earliest moment possible_. 

SYMPTOMS TO BE OBSERVED. 

As no part of the breeding season is exempt, the stocks should becarefully observed during spring, and fore part of summer, relative toincrease of bees. When one or more is much behind others in thisrespect, make an examination immediately. (I would here urge again theconvenience of the simple, common hive, over those more complicated, orsuspended, and difficult to turn over. In one case we might make anexamination in season; in the other, too much trouble and difficultymight cause it to be put off too long. ) The hive must be inverted, andthe bees smoked out of the way. Our attention is to be directed to thebreeding cells; with a sharp-pointed knife, proceed to cut off the endsof some of them that appear to be the oldest; bearing in mind thatyoung bees are always white, until some time after they take thechrysalis state. Therefore, if a larva is found of a dark color, it isdead! Should a dozen such be found, the stock should be condemned atonce, and all the bees driven into an empty hive. (The directions forthis have been given, see page 31. ) If honey should be scarce, at thetime, they should be fed. 

SCALDING THE HONEY TO DESTROY THE POISON FOR FEEDING. 

The honey from the old hive may be used, if you will only first destroythe virus. This, I have ascertained, may be done by scalding: add ahalf-pint of water to about ten lbs. ; stir it well, and heat it to theboiling point, and carefully remove all the scum. 

Stocks in which the disease has not progressed too far, will generallyswarm. 

WHEN TO EXAMINE STOCKS THAT HAVE SWARMED. 

Three weeks from the first swarm, will be the time to examine them. Imake it a rule to inspect all my stocks at this period. It is easilydone now, as about all the healthy brood (except drones) should bematured in that time. By perseverance in these rules, I allow no stocksto dwindle away until they are plundered by others. If all my neighborswere equally careful, this disease would probably soon disappear. Thisis like one careless farmer allowing a noxious weed to mature seeds, tobe wafted by winds on the lands of a careful neighbor, who must fortifyhis mind to continual vigilance, or endure the injury of a foul pest. So with the successful apiarian; in sections where the disease hasappeared (it has not in all), he must be continually on the watch; itis the price of success. 

CARE IN SELECTING STOCK HIVES FOR WINTER. 

Again, after the breeding season is over, in the fall, _every stockshould be thoroughly inspected, and all diseased ones condemned forstock hives_. It is better to do it, even if it should take the lastone. It would pay much better to procure others instead, that arehealthy. 

Persons wishing to eat the honey from such hives, will experience nobad effects from it, if they are careful to remove all the dead brood, as they take it out of the hive. 

The greatest distance that I ever knew bees to go, and plunder adefenceless stock of its contents, was three-fourths of a mile. Verylikely they would go farther on some occasions, but not often. 

ACCUSATIONS NOT ALWAYS RIGHT. 

Careless bee-keepers, when their hives are thus robbed, feel regret, orare more often vexed at somebody--at the result of their carelessness. The person, keeping most bees in a neighborhood, must expect to beaccountable for all effects of their ignorance, mismanagement, orcarelessness, and consequent "bad luck;" when all the honey thusobtained, probably carries with it more mischief than can be eradicatedin a twelvemonth, thereby giving the real cause of complaint to theother party. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

IRRITABILITY OF BEES. 

Keeping bees good-natured, offers a pretty fair subject for ridicule:it seems rather too absurd to teach _a bee_ anything! Nevertheless, itis worth while to think of it a little. Most of us know that byinjudicious training, horses, cattle, dogs, &c. , may be renderedextremely vicious. If there is no perceptible analogy between these andbees, experience proves that they may be made ten times more irritablethan they naturally would be. 

THEIR MEANS OF DEFENCE. 

Nature has armed them with means to defend their stores, and providedthem with combativeness sufficient to use them when necessary. Thiscould not be bettered. If they were powerless to repel an enemy, thereare a thousand lazy depredators, man not excepted, who would prey uponthe fruits of their industry, leaving them to starve. Had it been soarranged, this industrious insect would probably have long since beenextinct. 

TIME OF GREATEST IRRITABILITY. 

The season of their greatest caution, in this section, is August, during the flowers of buckwheat. It is then their stores are greatest. As soon as a stock is pretty well supplied with this world's goods, like some bipeds, they become very haughty, proud, aristocratic, andinsolent. A great many things are construed into insults, that in theirdays of adversity would pass unnoticed; but now it is becoming andproper for their honor to show a "just resentment. " It behooves us, therefore, to ascertain what are considered insults. 

PROPER CONDUCT. 

First, all quick motions, such as running, striking, &c. , about them, are noticed. If our movements among them are slow, cautious, humble, and respectful, we are often let to pass unmolested, having manifesteda becoming deportment. Yet the exhalations from some persons appearvery offensive, as they attack them much sooner than others; though Iapprehend there is not so great a difference as many suppose. Wheneveran attack is made, and a sting follows, the venom thus imparted to theair, if by only one, is perceived by others at some distance, whichwill immediately approach the scene, and more stings are likely tofollow than if the first had not been. 

HOW TO PROCEED WHEN ATTACKED. 

Striking them down renders them ten times more furious. Not in theleast daunted, they return to the attack. Not the least show of fear isperceived. Even after losing their sting, they obstinately refuse todesist. It is much the best way to walk as quietly as possible to theshelter of some bush, or to the house. They will seldom go inside ofthe door. 

A PERSON'S BREATH OFFENSIVE, AND OTHER CAUSES. 

The breath of a person inside the hive, or among them, when clusteredoutside, is considered in the tribunals of their insect wisdom as thegreatest indignity. A sudden jar, sometimes made by carelessly turningup the hive, is another. After being once thoroughly irritated in thisway, they remember it for weeks, and are continually on the alert; themoment the hive is touched, they are ready to salute a person's face. When slides of tin or zinc are used to cut off the communicationbetween the hives and boxes, some of the bees are apt to be crushed orcut in two. This they remember, and retaliate, as occasion offers; andit may be when quietly walking in the apiary. 

THEIR MANNER OF ATTACK. 

I must disagree with any one who says we always have warning beforebeing stung. I have been stung _a few times_ myself. Two-thirds of themwere received without the least notice--the first intimation was the"blow. " At other times, when fully determined on vengeance, I have hadthem strike my hat and remain a moment endeavoring to effect theirobject. In this case, I have warning to hold down my face to protect itfrom the next attempt, which is quite sure to follow. As they flyhorizontally, the face held in that position is not so liable to beattacked. When they are not so thoroughly charged with anger, theyoften approach in merely a threatening attitude, buzzing around veryprovokingly for several minutes in close proximity to our ears andface, apparently to ascertain our intentions. If nothing hostile ordispleasing is perceived, they will generally leave; but should a quickmotion or offensive breath offend them, the dreaded result is almostsure to follow. Too many people are apt to take these threateningmanifestations as positive intentions to sting. When these things canbe quietly endured, and at the same time leave their vicinity, itgenerally ends peaceably. They never make an attack while away fromtheir home in quest of honey, or on their return, until they haveentered the hive. It is only in the hive and its vicinity that weexpect to meet this irascible temperament, which should not be allowed, or at least may be subdued in a great measure, if not entirely, bydoing things in a quiet manner, and, by the use of tobacco smoke. Anyperson having the care of bees should go armed with this powerfulweapon. As bees are not much affected with smoke, while flying in theair, but will have their own way, we must take them in the hive as theplace to teach _them_ a proper deportment!

Those who are accustomed to smoking will find a pipe or segar veryconvenient here. But such as are not would do better, perhaps, not tolearn a bad habit. I will therefore give a simple substitute. 

SMOKER DESCRIBED. 

Get a tube of tin about five-eighths of an inch diameter, five or sixinches in length; make stoppers of wood to fit both ends, two and ahalf or three inches long; with your nail-gimlet make a hole throughthem lengthwise: when put together it should be about ten inches. Theends may be tapered. On one end leave a notch, that it may be held withthe teeth, which is the most convenient way, as you will often want touse both hands: it is also always ready, without any trouble to blowthrough, and also to keep the tobacco burning. When ready to operate, fill the tube with tobacco, ignite it, and put in the stoppers; byblowing through it you keep the tobacco burning while the smoke issuesat the other end. 

EFFECT OF TOBACCO SMOKE. 

We can now subdue these combative propensities, or render themharmless; turn their anger to submission, and make them yield theirtreasures to the hands of the spoiler without an effort of resistance!When once overpowered, they seem to lose all knowledge of theirstrength, and no slave can be more submissive! After the effects of thesmoke have passed off, their former animosity will return. Should anyresentment be shown on raising a hive, blow in the smoke; theyimmediately retreat, "begging pardon. " After a few times, they learn"it's no use, " and allow an inspection. If you wish to take off a box, raise it just enough to blow under the smoke; there is no trouble; youcan replace it with another; the bees are kept out of the way with alittle more smoke, _and no anger created about it to be remembered_. Those in the box are all submission; they can be carried away andhandled as you please, without a possibility of getting them irritated, until they once more get home, and then are much more "amiable" than ifthe box had been taken without the smoke. They seem to forget, or donot realize anything of the transaction. When bees are to betransferred to a new hive, it is unnecessary to be so very particularabout the escape of a single bee; no fears need be entertained of suchas get out. In driving, the loud humming indicates their submission;the upper hive can then be safely raised at any time. After being thusdriven out, they may be pushed about with impunity, and still be quiet!In short, by using smoke on all occasions where they would be likely tobe disturbed without it by our meddling with them, it has a tendency tokeep dormant their combative propensities. When these have never beenaroused, there is much less danger from their attacks while walking orlooking among them. Any one wishing further proof, I would recommendthe experiment of managing one year with smoke, and the next without. 

STING DESCRIBED. 

Their sting, as it appears to the naked eye, is but a tiny instrumentof war; so small, indeed, that its wound would pass unheeded by all thelarger animals, if it was not for the poison introduced at the sameinstant. It has been described as being "composed of three parts, asheath and two darts. Both the darts are furnished with small points orbarbs like a fishhook, " that hold it when introduced into the flesh;the bee being compelled to leave it behind. 

DOES ITS LOSS PROVE FATAL?

It is said "to the bee itself this mutilation proves fatal. " This lastis another assertion for fact, so often repeated, that perhaps we mightas well admit it; seeing the difficulty we should have in disprovingit. Only think of the impossibility of keeping our eye, for fiveminutes, on a bee that is flying about, after it has left its sting. Yet there are some persons so very particular about what they receiveas facts, that they would require this very unreasonable thing ofwatching a bee till it died, before they could be _positively sure_that the loss of its sting caused its death. (It is much easier toguess. ) They might even take analogy, and say that other insectspossess so little sensation that they have been known to recover aftermuch more extensive mutilation--that beetles have lived for monthsunder circumstances that would have instantly killed some of the higheranimals--that spiders often reproduce a leg, even lobsters can replacea lost claw, &c. I have put off describing any protection against theirattacks, because I wish to get up a little more courage in our doingsamong them. Yet it is folly to expect all will manage successfullywithout something for defence. 

MEANS OF PROTECTION. 

The face and hands are most exposed; for the latter, thick woollenmittens or gloves are best; the sting is generally left when thrustinto a leather glove. For the face procure one and a half yards of thinmuslin or calico, sew the ends together, the upper end gathered on astring small enough to prevent it slipping over the head when put on. An arm-hole is to be cut out on each side; below is another string togather it close to the body. As I do not expect you to work in thedark, we will have a place cut out in front, and a piece of coarse laceinserted; that which will just prevent a bee from passing, is best, asit gives us a better chance to see. To keep it from falling against theface, a wire is bent around and sewed fast. Any person that knows howto put on a shirt will manage this. When thus equipped, and othergarments of proper thickness, the most timid ought not to hesitate toventure among them, when necessary. I cannot avoid cautioning you againto beware of irritating your bees, until this protection is necessary, as it is a rather bad state of things. With this on, you cannotconveniently use any smoke. To put this on and off is considerabletrouble, and every time you go among them, if you have to resort tothis, I fear some necessary duties will be neglected. Whenever apartial protection will do, I would recommend a handkerchief; it isalways at hand, and can be put on in a moment; throw it over the head, letting the ends fall around the neck and shoulders, covering all butthe face. The hat can come on over it. As for the face, whenever a beecomes around in a menacing attitude, hold it down--unless he stings atthe first onset, there is not much risk. 

REMEDIES FOR STINGS. 

Concerning the remedies for stings, it is a hard matter to tell whichis the best. There is so much difference in the effect in differentindividuals, and the different parts of the body, as well as the depththe sting reaches, that a great variety of remedies are recommended. 

A person is slightly stung, and applies something as an antidote; theeffect of the sting is trifling, as perhaps it would have been withoutanything, and the medicine is forthwith extolled as a sovereign remedy. I have been thus deceived; when slightly stung applied what I thoughtcured in one case, when in the next the sting might have penetrateddeeper, or in some other place, and the remedy would seem to have noeffect. For the last few years, I have not made any applicationwhatever for myself, and the effect is no worse, nor even as bad asformerly. (This, I am told, is because the system is hardened, and nowcan resist or throw off the effects. ) Among the remedies recommended, are saleratus and water, salt and water, soft-soap mixed with salt, araw onion cut in two and one-half applied, mud or clay mixed pretty wetand changed often, tobacco wet and rubbed thoroughly to get at thestrength, and cold water constantly applied. To cure the smart, theapplication of tobacco is strongly urged, and cold water is spoken ofwith equal favor to prevent the swelling. 

When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt and water is said willprevent serious consequences. 

Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, I suppose it isunnecessary to say that the sting should be pulled out as soon aspracticable. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

ENEMIES OF BEES. 

Among the enemies of bees, there are included rats, mice, birds, toads, and insects. 

ARE THEY ALL GUILTY?

But some of these are probably clear of any actual mischief. I stronglysuspect that the spirit of destructiveness with many people isaltogether too active. There are some farmers, with this principlepredominant, so short-sighted, that if it was in their power they woulddestroy a whole class of birds, because some of them had picked a fewcherries, or dug out a few hills of corn, when, at the same time, theyare indebted to their activity in devouring worms, insects, &c. , thatwould otherwise have destroyed entire crops! It will be well, therefore, before condemnation, to see if on the whole we are to begainers or losers by an indiscriminate slaughter, without judge orjury. 

RATS AND MICE. 

Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in cold weather. Theentrances of all hives standing out are too small to admit a rat. It isonly when in the house that much damage need be apprehended. Theyappear to be fond of honey, and when it is accessible will eat severalpounds in a short time. 

Mice will often enter the hive when standing on the bench, and makeextensive depredations. Sometimes, after eating a space in the combs, they will there make their nest. The animal heat created by the beeswill make a snug, warm place for winter quarters. There are two kinds:one the common class, belonging to the house; the other called"deer-mouse"--the under side perfectly white, the back much lighterthan the other kind. The latter seems to be particularly fond of thebees, while the first appears to relish the honey. Whether they takebees that are alive, or only such as are already dead, I cannot say. Only a part of the bee is eaten; and if we take the fragments left tojudge of the number consumed, the circumstance will go some ways toprove the sacrifice of quite a number. Whether bees or honey is wasted, a little care to prevent their depredations is well worthy of bestowal. As rats and mice have so long since been condemned and sentenced forbeing a universal plague, and without a redeeming trait, I will saynothing in their favor, and am perfectly willing they shall be hangedtill dead. 

ARE ALL THE BIRDS GUILTY?

But for some of the birds accused of preying upon bees, I would say aword. 

KING-BIRD--ONE WORD IN HIS FAVOR. 

The king-bird stands at the head of the list of depredators! With afair trial he will be found guilty, though not so heinously criminal asmany suppose. I think we shall find him guilty of taking only thedrones. In the afternoon of a fair day he may be seen perched upon somedry branch of a shrub or tree near the apiary, watching for hisvictims, occasionally darting to seize them. I have shot him down andexamined his crop, after seeing him devour a goodly number; but inevery instance the bees were so crushed to pieces, that it wasimpossible to distinguish workers from drones. We are told of greatnumbers of workers being counted. It may be so, or it may be thusrepresented by a spice of prejudice. I have found the brutalgratification of taking life so strong with some, that a naturalantipathy is allowed to take the place of justice, and a proper defenceis not allowed in such cases where the suffering party has not thepower to enforce it. If he was satisfied with workers as well asdrones, why does he not visit the apiary long before noon, and fill hiscrop with them? But instead, he waits till afternoon for the drones;and if none are flying, he watches quietly till one appears, althoughworkers may be out by hundreds continually. If the question is asked, how they tell the difference in the two kinds of bees, I might suggestthat _instinct_ has taught most animals the proper kind of food, andmight direct the birds in this case. If it was not sufficient, a littleexperience in catching bees provided with stings, might impart theimportant difference, in one or two lessons. I once had a chicken thatknew the difference by some means, and would stand by the hive anddevour every drone, the moment it touched the board, while the workerswould pass by him in scores untouched!

Now, whether this taking the drones is a disadvantage or otherwise, would depend entirely upon circumstances. If honey was a little scarce, the less we had of them the better; it would also save the bees sometrouble in dispatching them. It is probably a matter of so littlemoment to our bees, that it will not pay for powder to shoot them. 

Martins, and a kind of swallows, are said to be guilty of taking beeson some occasions; but as they pursue them on the wing (if they do), the same remarks will apply as to the king-bird. 

CAT-BIRD ACQUITTED. 

The cat-bird also comes in for a share of censure. It is said "theywill get right down by the hive, and pick up bees by the hundred. " Yet, right in the face of this charge, I am disposed to acquit him. With theclosest observation, I find him about the hive, picking up _only_ youngand immature bees, such as are removed from the combs and thrown out. They may be seen as soon as the first rays of light make objectsvisible about the apiary, looking for their morning supply, as well asfrequent visits during the day. Should an unlucky worm be in sight justthen, while looking up a place for spinning a cocoon, or a mothreposing on some corner of the hive, their fate is at once decided. Before destroying this bird, it would be well to judge by actualobservation as to facts; otherwise we might "destroy a friend insteadof a foe. "

TOAD GOT CLEAR. 

A toad is discovered near the hives, and forthwith he is executed as abee-eater. "He ought to be killed for his looks, if nothing else!" Heis thus often sacrificed _really_ on account of his appearance, whilepretending he is a villain. It is true his "feathers" will not vie inbrilliancy with the plumage of the humming-bird, and do not gratifyideality--therefore he is dispatched. The next week the complaint ismade that the little bugs, that he might have destroyed, "have eaten upall the little cucumbers and cabbages. " His food is probably smallinsects. Whoever has seen him swallow bees, must have watched closerthan I ever did. 

WASPS AND HORNETS NOT FAVORED. 

As for the frequent visits of the black-wasp in the sunny days ofspring, but little can be said in their favor--they seem to have noother object but to tease and irritate the bees. I never could discoverthat they entered the hive for the purpose of plunder. They havefrequent battles with the bees, but I never saw any bees devoured orcarried off, nor even killed. After the first of June they are seldomtroublesome. The yellow wasp or hornet, that is around in autumn, is ofbut little account; their object is honey, which they take when theycan get it, but are not apt to enter the hive among the bees. 

ANTS--A WORD IN THEIR FAVOR. 

Ants come in for a share of condemnation. This little industriousinsect shall have my endeavors for a fair hearing; I think I canunderstand why they are so frequently accused of robbing bees. Manybee-keepers are wholly ignorant, most of the time, of the realcondition of their stocks. Many causes independent of ants, induce areduction of population. Suppose the bees are so reduced as to leavethe combs unprotected, and the ants enter and appropriate some of thehoney to themselves, and should the owner come along just then and seethem engaged, "Ha! you are the rascals that have destroyed my bees, "without a thought of looking for causes, beyond present appearances. They are often unjustly accused by the farmer of injuring the growth ofhis little trees, by causing the tender leaves to curl and wither. Inquiries are often made in some of the agricultural papers for meansto destroy them, merely because they are found on them; when the realcause of the mischief is with the plant louse, (aphis) that is upon theleaves or stalk in hundreds, robbing them of their important juices, and secreting a fluid greatly prized by the ants. By destroying thelice, you remove all the attraction of the ants. The peculiar habits ofthe small black ants, probably give rise to a suspicion of mischief inthis way. They live in communities of thousands--their nests areusually in old walls, in old timber, under stones, and in the earth. From their nests a string may be traced sometimes for rods, goingafter, and returning laden with food. During a spell of wet weather, such as would make the earth and many other places too damp and coldfor a nest, they look out for better quarters. The top or chamber ofour bee-hives affords shelter from rain. The animal heat from the beesrenders it perfectly comfortable. How then can we blame them forchoosing such a location, so completely answering all their wants? Aslong as the bees are not disturbed, we can put up with it better. Butthe careless observer having discovered their train to and fro fromtheir nest on the hive, exclaims: "Why, I have seen them going in acontinual stream to the hive after honey;" when a little scrutiny intothe matter would show that only the nest was on the top of the hive, and they were going somewhere else for food; not one to be seenentering the hive among the bees for honey, (at least I never coulddetect it. )

When honey is unprotected by bees, or boxes of it placed where they canhave access, as a natural consequence, they will carry off some; but itis easily secured. 

SPIDER CONDEMNED. 

Spiders are a source of considerable annoyance to the apiarian, as wellas to the bees; not so much on account of the number of bees consumed, as their habit of spinning a web about the hive, that will occasionallytake a moth, and will probably entangle fifty bees the whilst. They areeither in fear of the bees, or they are not relished as food;particularly, as a bee caught in the morning is frequently untouchedduring the day. This web is often exactly before the entrance, entangling the bees as they go out and return; irritating and hinderingthem considerably. They often escape after repeated struggles. I haveremoved a web from the same place every morning, for a week, that wasrenewed at night with astonishing perseverance! I can generally lookout his hiding-place, which is in some corner near by, and dispatchhim. His redeeming qualities are few, and are more than balanced by theevil, as far as I have discovered. Their sagacity in some instanceswill find a place of concealment not easily discovered. At the approachof cold weather, the box or chamber of the hive being a little warmerthan other places, will attract a great many there to deposit theireggs. Little piles of webbing or silk may be seen attached to the topof the hive, or sides of boxes. These contain eggs for the next year'sbrood. This is the time to destroy them and save trouble for thefuture. 

If we combine into one phalanx all the depredators yet named, andcompare their ability for mischief with the wax moth, we shall findtheir powers of destruction but a small item! Of the moth itself wewould have nothing to fear were it not for her progeny, that consist ofa hundred or a thousand vile worms, whose food is principally wax orcomb. 

As the instinct of the flesh-fly directs her to a putrid carcass todeposit her eggs, that her offspring may have their proper food, so themoth seeks the hive containing combs, and where its natural food is athand to furnish a supply. During the day a rusty brown miller, with itswings wrapped close around the body, may be often seen lying perfectlymotionless on the side of the hive on one corner, or the under edge ofthe top, where it projects over--they are more frequent at the cornersthan anywhere else, one-third of their length projecting beyond it;appearing much like a sliver on the edge of a board that is somewhatweather-beaten. Their color so closely resembles old wood, that I haveno doubt their enemies are often deceived, and let them escape withtheir lives. As soon as daylight shuts out the view, and no danger oftheir movements being discovered by their enemies, they throw off theirinactivity, and commence searching for a place to deposit their eggs, and woe to the stock that has not bees sufficient to drive them fromthe comb. Although their larvæ has a skin that the bee cannot piercewith its sting, in most cases, it is not so with the moth, and of thisfact they seem to be aware, for whenever a bee approaches they dartaway with speed ten times greater than that of any bee, disposed tofollow! They enter the hive and dodge out in a moment, having eitherencountered a bee, or fear they may do so. Now it needs no argument toprove that when all our stocks are well protected, that it must be apoor chance to deposit eggs, on the combs of such hives, where theirinstinct has taught them is the proper place. But they _must_ leavethem somewhere. When driven from all the combs within, the next bestplace is the cracks and flaws about the hive, that are lined withpropolis; and the dust and chips that fall on the floor-board of ayoung swarm not full will be used. This last material is mostly wax, and answers very well instead of comb. The eggs will here hatch and theworms sometimes ascend to the combs; hence the necessity of keeping thebottom brushed off clean. It will prevent those that are on the bottomfrom going up; also the bees from taking up any eggs, if this shouldhappen to be the method. I can conceive of no other way by which theyget among the combs of a populous stock; where they are often detected, having been deposited by some means. A worm lodged in the comb, makeshis way to the centre, and then eats a passage as he proceeds, liningit with a shroud of silk, gradually enlarging it, as he increases insize. (When combs are filled with honey, they work on the surface, eating only the sealing. ) In very weak families this silken passagewayis left untouched, --but removed by all the stronger ones. I have foundit asserted that "the worms would be all immediately destroyed by thebees, were it not for a kind of dread in touching them until compelledto by necessity. " As the facts which led to this conclusion are notgiven, and I can find none confirming it, perhaps I shall be excused ifI have no faith. On the contrary, I find to all appearance aninstinctive antipathy to all such intruders, and are removedimmediately when possessing the power. 

When a worm is in a comb filled with brood, its passage being in thecentre, it is not at first discovered. The bees, to get it out, mustbite away half the thickness, removing the brood in one or two rows ofcells, sometimes for several inches. This will account for so manyimmature bees found on the bottom board at morning, in the spring; aswell as in stocks and swarms but partially protected after the swarmingseason. 

INDICATIONS OF THEIR PRESENCE. 

Sometimes a half dozen young bees, nearly mature, will be removedalive, all webbed together, fastened by legs, wings, &c. All theirefforts for breaking loose prove unavailing. Also others that areseparate may be seen running about with their wings mutilated, or partof their legs eaten off, or tied together! These generally are thefirst symptoms of worms in our stock at this season. Althoughunfavorable, it might be worse. It shows that the bees are notdiscouraged yet, --that when finding the worms present, have sufficientenergy left to make an effort to rid themselves of the nuisance. 

MANAGEMENT. 

Should the apiarian now give them a little assistance for a few days, they will soon be in a prosperous condition. The hive should befrequently raised, and everything brushed out clean. If it is a newswarm half full, that presents these indications, it should be turnedover a few times, perhaps once a week, till the worms are mastered; andthe corners below the bees examined for the cocoons, that will veryoften be found there, and are easily detached and destroyed. In turningover a hive part full, in warm weather, you should first observe theposition of the combs, and let the edges rest against the side of thehive, otherwise they might bend over and break loose when the hive wasagain set up, (by simply making a pencil mark across the top in thedirection of the combs, you may know any time after first looking). 

CARE IN TURNING OVER HIVES. 

When a hive is full of combs, the edges are usually attached sufficientto steady them, and it is of less consequence which way it is turned, yet in very warm weather the honey will run out of drone cells ifperpendicular. 

In _very_ small swarms, hundreds of the young brood may be frequentlyseen with their heads out of the cells, endeavoring to escape, but arefirmly held inside by these webs. I have known a few instances in suchcircumstances, where it appeared as if the bees had cut off the wholesheet of comb and let it drop, thereby ridding themselves of allfurther trouble (or would be rid of it, if their owner only did hispart by taking out what fell down. )

OTHER SYMPTOMS OF WORMS. 

But when the bees make no effort to dislodge the enemy or his works inold stocks, the case is somewhat desperate! Instead of the foregoingsymptoms we must look for something entirely different. But few youngbees will be found. In their place we may find the fæces of the wormsdropped on the board. During winter and spring the bees, in biting offthe covering of cells to get at the honey, drop chips closelyresembling it. To detect the difference and distinguish one from theother requires a little close inspection. The color of the fæces varieswith the comb on which they feed, from white to brown and black. Thesize of these grains will be in proportion to the worm--from a merespeck to nearly as large as a pin-head: shape cylindrical, with obtuseends: length about twice its diameter. By the quantity we can judge ofthe number. If the hive is full of combs the lower ends may appearperfect, while the middle or upper part is sometimes a mat of webs!

Whenever our stocks have become reduced from over-swarming or othercause, this is the next effect in succession that we must expect. Hereis another important reason that we know the _actual_ condition of ourbees at all times; we can then detect the worms very soon after theycommence. In some instances we might save the stock by breaking outmost of the combs, leaving just enough to be covered by the bees. Whensuccess attends this operation, it _must_ be done before the worms haveprogressed to a thorough lodgment. When the stock is weak, andappearances indicate the presence of many, it is generally the safest, and will be the least trouble in the end, to drive out the bees at onceand secure the honey and wax. The bees when put into a new hive _may_do a little, but if they should do nothing, it would be no worse. Itcannot be as bad any way as to have left them in the old hive till theworms had destroyed all and matured a thousand or two moths in additionto those otherwise produced, thereby multiplying the chances of damageto other stocks a thousand-fold. It is probably remembered that I saidwhen bees are removed from a hive in warm weather, if it was notinfested with worms at the time, it soon would be, unless smoked withsulphur. 

WHEN THEY GROW LARGER THAN USUAL. 

In a hive thus left without bees to interfere, the worms will increaseto one-half or two-thirds larger than where their right to the combs isdisputed. In one case they often have their growth, and actually windup in their cocoon when less than an inch in length: in the other theywill quietly fatten till they are an inch and a half long and as largeas a pipe-stem. 

TIME OF GROWTH. 

When first hatched from the egg, it requires very close inspection tosee them with the naked eye. The rapidity of growth depends on thetemperature in which they are, as much or more than their good living. A few days in hot weather might develop the full-grown worm, while in alower temperature it would require weeks and even months in some cases, perhaps from fall till spring. 

TIME OF TRANSFORMATION. 

The worm, after spinning its cocoon, soon changes to a chrysalis, andremains inactive for several days, when it makes an opening in one endand crawls out. The time taken for this transformation is also governedby the temperature, although I think but few ever pass the winter inthis state. It is a rare thing to find a moth before the end of May, and not many till the middle of June; but after this time they are morenumerous till the end of the season. 

FREEZING DESTROYS WORMS, COCOON AND MOTH. 

It is pretty well demonstrated that the moth, its eggs, larvæ andchrysalis cannot pass the winter without warmth of some kind to preventtheir freezing to death. The following facts indicate this. I havetaken all the bees out of a hive in the fall, and without disturbingthe comb or honey, put it in a cold chamber where it could freezethoroughly. In the following March bees were again introduced, and whennot on a bench with some other stock that had worms, not a singleinstance in forty cases has ever produced a worm before the middle ofJune, or until the eggs of some moth matured in another hive has hadtime to hatch. I have sometimes, instead of putting bees in these inMarch, kept them till June for swarms, perfectly free from anyappearance of worms!

HOW THEY PASS THE WINTER. 

But it is altogether a different thing with our hives in which bees arewintered; they are seldom or never entirely exempt! Perhaps it isimpossible to winter bees without preserving some eggs of the moth or afew worms at the same time. The perfect moth perhaps never survives thewinter; the only place that the chrysalis would be safe, I think mustbe in the vicinity of the bees--and a good stock will never allow itthere--but eggs, it would appear, are suffered to remain. In the fall, at the approach of cold weather, the bees are apt to leave the ends ofthe combs exposed; the moth can now enter and deposit her eggs directlyupon them; these, together with what are carried in by means beforesuggested, are enough to prevent losing the breed. The warmth generatedby the bees will keep these eggs from freezing and preserve theirvitality. When warm weather approaches in the spring, those nearest thebees are probably hatched first, and commence depredations and areremoved by the bees. As the bees increase and occupy more comb, moreare warmed up and hatched. In this way, even a small family of beeswill hatch, and get rid of all the eggs that happen to be in theircombs, and not be destroyed. This is the time that the apiarian may beof service in destroying the worms, as the bees get them on the floor. 

STOCKS MORE LIABLE TO BE DESTROYED LAST OF SUMMER. 

But in July and August it is different in this respect; a single mothmay enter the hive when exposed, and deposit her whole burden ofseveral hundred eggs, as in the other case, but the heat from the beesis now unnecessary to hatch them. The weather at this season will makeany part of the hive warm enough to set her whole brood at work atonce, and in three weeks all may be destroyed! This, and the fact thatmore moths exist now than before, may account for the greater number ofstocks being destroyed at this season. Yet it is considered extremelybad management to allow honey or combs to be devoured by thisdisgusting creature. A little care to know the condition of the stocks_is necessary_ to prevent their getting the start. These duties shouldbe fully considered before we take the responsibility of the care ofbees. 

WHEN BEES ARE SAFE. 

The only condition when we can rest and feel safe is when _we know allour stocks are full of bees_. Even the "moth-proof" hive containingcombs will be scented out by the moth, when there are no bees to guardit. An argument to show that a moth can enter where a bee can go isunnecessary, and a little observation, I think, will prove that hereggs sometimes go where she is not allowed. 

MEANS TO DESTROY THEM. 

At this season, (July and August), it is a good plan to put a fewpieces of old dry combs near the hives, in a box, or other place, as adecoy, where the moth may have access. She will deposit a great many ofher eggs here, instead of the hive, and can be easily destroyed. As wecannot always have our bees in a situation to feel safe, it will bewell to adopt some of the means recommended to diminish the number ofmoths. First destroy all the worms that can be found at any time, particularly in spring; second, all cocoons that can be got at. A greatmany worms can be enticed to web up, under a trap of elder, &c. , whenit is an easy matter to dispatch them. Thirdly, destroy all the mothspossible that can be seen about the hive. They are very much like theflea, "when you put your finger on him he is not there;" a careful moveis necessary to crush him at once, otherwise he darts away at the leastdisturbance. Probably the most expeditious mode is to make them drunk. 

MAKING THEM DRUNK, AND THEIR EXECUTION BY CHICKENS. 

Mix with water just enough molasses and vinegar to make it palatable;this is to be put in white saucers or other dishes, and set among thehives at night. Like nobler beings, if not wiser, when once they havetasted the fatal beverage, they seem to lose all power to leave thefascinating cup; but give way to appetite and excitement till a fatalstep plunges them into destruction! The next morning finds them yetwallowing in filth, weak and feeble. Whether they would recover fromthe effects of their carousal if lifted out of the mire, and carefullynursed like other specimens of creation, I never ascertained. With butlittle trouble a chicken or two will learn to be on hand, and greedilydevour every one. Hundreds are caught in this way, although many otherkinds besides the bee-moth will be mixed with them. This drink may beused till dried up, occasionally adding a little water; perhaps it isbetter after fermenting. This recipe appeared some years ago in somepaper; I have forgotten where. Salt has been recommended to prevent themischief of the worms, as well as a benefit to the bees. I used itpretty extensively for several years, as I thought without muchbenefit, and got tired. I then tried salting a part, and let the restdo entirely without, and found no difference in their prosperity. Sincethen, some ten years ago, I abandoned its use altogether, and succeedjust as well. 

CHAPTER XX. 

MELTING DOWN OF COMBS. 

THE CAUSE. 

When extreme hot weather occurs immediately after the bees have beengathering from a plentiful harvest for two or three weeks, or evenduring the yield, the wax composing new combs is very liable to besoftened, till they break loose from their fastenings and settle to thebottom. 

EFFECTS. 

Sometimes the injury is trifling, only a piece or two slipping down; atother times the whole contents fall in a confused and broken mass, theweight pressing out the honey, and besmearing the bees, which in thatsituation creep out, and away, from the hive in every direction. 

I once had some new stocks ruined, and several others injured by hotweather, in this way, about the first of September, immediately afterthe flowers of buckwheat. The bees, or most of them, being covered withhoney, together with what ran out of the hive, at once attracted beesfrom the others to the spot, which carried off the entire contents in afew hours. This was an uncommon occurrence; I have known but one seasonin twenty-five years when it occurred after the failure of honey in theflowers. It usually happens during a plenteous yield, and then otherstocks are not apt to be troublesome. 

FIRST INDICATIONS. 

The first indications of such an accident will be, the bees outside inclusters, when the hive is perhaps only half or two-thirds full, andthe honey running out from the bottom, (this is when part has fallen. )

PREVENTION. 

To prevent such occurrences as far as possible, ventilate by raisingthe hives on little blocks at the corners, and _effectually protectthem from the sun_; and if necessary, wet the outside with _cold_water. At the time of losing those before mentioned, I kept all therest of the young swarms wet through the middle of the day, and I haveno doubt but I saved several by this means. I had some trouble withsuch as had only a piece or two come down, and started just honeyenough to attract other bees. It was not safe to close the hive toprevent the robbers, as this would have made the heat still greater, and been certain destruction. 

The best protection I found, was to put around the bottom of the hive afew stems of asparagus; this gave a free circulation of air, and at thesame time, made it very difficult for the robbers to approach theentrance, without first creeping through this hedge and encounteringsome bees that belonged to the hive; which, with this assistance, wereenabled to defend themselves till all wasting honey was taken up. 

When the hive is nearly full, and but one or two sheets come down, thelower edge will rest on the floor, and the other combs will keep it inan upright position, until the bees fasten it again. It is generally aswell to leave such pieces as they are. If the hive is but half full orlittle more, and such pieces are not kept perpendicular by theremaining combs, they are apt to be broken and crushed badly, byfalling so far; and most of the honey will be wasted. To save this, itwill be necessary to remove it, (unless a dish can be made to catchit). Be careful not to turn the hive on its side, and break theremaining combs, if any are left. Such combs as contain brood and butlittle honey, might be left for the brood to mature. Should the bees beable to take the honey or not waste much, it might be advisable toleave it, till the contents were taken up; it would greatly assist infilling up. But these broken pieces should be removed before theyinterfere with the combs extending to the bottom. A part of the beesare generally destroyed, but the majority will escape; even such as arecovered with honey, (if they are not crushed) will clean it off andsoon be in working order, when others do not interfere officiously, assisting to remove it. A good yield of honey is the best protectionagainst this disposition to pillage. After the first year combs becomethicker, and are not so liable to give way. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

FALL MANAGEMENT. 

FIRST CARE. 

When the flowers fail at the end of the season, the first thingnecessary is to ascertain which are the weakest stocks, and all thatcannot defend themselves should either be removed or reinforced. Thestrength of all stocks is pretty thoroughly tested within a few daysafter a failure of honey. Should any be found with too few bees fordefence, they are quite sure to be plundered. Hence the necessity ofaction in season, that we may secure the contents in advance of therobbers. 

STRONG STOCKS DISPOSED TO PLUNDER. 

Strong stocks, that during a yield have occupied every cell with broodand honey, when it fails, will soon have empty cells left by the youngbees, hatching. These empty cells, without honey to fill them, appearto be a source of much uneasiness. Although such hive and caps may bewell stored, I have ever found them to be the worst in the apiary, muchmore disposed to plunder, than weaker ones with half the honey. As weakstocks cannot be bettered now, it is best to remove them at once, andput the temptation out of the way. Carelessness is but a sorry excuse, for letting bees establish this habit of dishonesty. Should any stocksbe weak from disease, the consequences would be even more disastrousthan bad habits; the reasons why such impure honey should not go intothrifty stocks, have already been given. If we want the least possibletrouble with our bees, none but the best should be selected for winter. But what constitutes a good stock, seems to be but partiallyunderstood; if we judge from the number lost annually, too many arecareless, or ignorant in the selection; supposing, perhaps, because astock has been good one winter and swarmed well, it must of course beright; the mistake is often fatal. 

BEES CHANGEABLE. 

Bees are so changeable, especially in the summer and swarming season, that we can seldom be certain what they are, by what they have been. Itis safest, therefore, _to know what they are now_. 

REQUISITES FOR GOOD STOCKS. 

The proper requisites for a good stock are a full hive of proper shapeand size, (viz. , 2, 000 inches, ) well stored with honey; a large familyof bees, and in a healthy condition, which must be ascertained byactual inspection. The age is not important till over eight years old. Stocks possessing these points, can be wintered with but littletrouble. But it cannot be expected that all will be in this condition. Many bee-keepers will wish to increase their stocks and keep all thatis practicable, by supplying any deficiency. I shall endeavor to makeit appear profitable to do so, until bees enough are kept in thecountry, to get all the honey that is now wasted. 

All can understand why it is a loss to have bees eat honey part of thewinter and then die--that the honey consumed might have beensaved--that it makes no great difference to the bees whether they arekilled in the fall or sacrificed in the winter. I am not an advocatefor fire and brimstone as the reward of all unfortunate stocks, andshall recommend it only when its use will make it no worse. We will seehow far it can be dispensed with. 

GREAT DISADVANTAGE OF KILLING THE BEES. 

Those rustic bee-keepers who are in the habit of making their hivesvery large, such as will hold from 100 to 140 lbs. , and killing thebees in the fall, and sending the honey to market, will probablycontinue the use of sulphur, unless we can convince them of the greateradvantage of making the hive smaller and have fifty or eighty lbs. Ofthis honey in boxes which will sell for more than can be realized fortheir larger hive full, and at the same time, save their bees for astock-hive, making a better return in the long run, than one hundreddollars at interest. When hives are made the proper size, the honeywill not be an object sufficient to pay for destroying the bees. 

SECTION OF COUNTRY MAY MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN WHAT POOR STOCKS NEED. 

The kind of requisite to be supplied to our deficient stocks, willprobably depend on the section of country. Where the principal sourceis clover and basswood, it will fail partially, at least, before theend of warm weather. 

Some poor or medium stocks will continue to rear brood too extensivelyfor their means, and exhaust their winter stores in consequence; suchwill need a supply of honey. But where great quantities of buckwheatare sown, cold weather follows almost immediately after this yield, andstops the breeding. Consequently a scarcity of bees is more frequentthan honey. There are exceptions, of course; I am speaking of thesecases generally. My experience has mostly been in a section where thiscrop is raised, and will say that there is not more than one season inten, but that the honey will be in proportion with the bees the firstof September; that is, if there are bees enough, there will be honeyenough. 

WHEN BEES ARE NEEDED. 

I have frequently had stocks with stores amply sufficient to carry agood family through the winter, and yet too few bees to last tillJanuary, or even to defend themselves from the robbers. Hence I am inthe habit of supplying bees oftener than honey. 

I usually have some few hives with too little honey, as well as too fewbees. Now it is very plain if the bees of one or more of this classwere united with the first successfully, we should have a respectablefamily. I have made additions to stocks in this way that provedfirst-rate. 

CAUTION. 

Whenever we make additions in this manner, it would be well first toascertain what was the cause of a scarcity of bees; if it wasover-swarming or loss of queen, it is well enough--but if from disease, reject them, unless the bees are to be transferred the next spring, andthen, when too many cells are occupied with dead brood, as the beescannot be successfully wintered. 

PRINCIPAL DIFFICULTY. 

The greatest difficulty in uniting two families or more in this manner, is where they have to be taken from different places in the sameapiary; where the locations have been marked. It is sufficiently shownthat bees return to the old stand. 

To prevent these results, it has been recommended "to set an empty hivewith some pieces of comb, fastened in the top in the place of the oneremoved, to catch the bees that go back to the old stand, and removethem at night for a few times, when they remain. " This should be doneonly when we cannot do better; it is considerable trouble; besidesthis, we do not always succeed to our satisfaction. 

HOW AVOIDED. 

I like the plan of bringing them a mile or more for this purpose, andhave no after trouble about it. Two neighbors being that distanceapart, each having stocks in this condition might exchange bees, makingthe benefit mutual. I have done so, and considered myself well paid forthe trouble. But latterly I have had several apiaries away from home, and now manage without difficulty. 

ADVANTAGES OF MAKING ONE GOOD STOCK FROM TWO POOR ONES. 

This making one good stock out of two poor ones, cannot be too highlyrecommended; aside from its advantages, it relieves us from alldisagreeable feelings in taking life, that we can with but littletrouble preserve. 

TWO FAMILIES TOGETHER WILL NOT CONSUME AS MUCH AS IF SEPARATE. 

Even when a stock already contains bees enough to make it safe forwinter, another of the same number of bees may be added, and _theconsumption of honey will not be five lbs. More than one swarm wouldconsume alone_. If they should be wintered in the cold, the differencemight not be one pound. Why more bees do not consume a proportionatequantity of honey, (which the experience of others as well as myselfhas thoroughly proved), is a mystery, unless the greater number of beescreates more animal heat, and being warm, eat less, is a solution, (which if it is, is a strong reason for keeping bees warm in winter. )

AN EXPERIMENT. 

Notwithstanding all this, I cannot recommend making a _good_ stockbetter by adding the bees from another good one as a source of profit. I tried it a few times. I had purchased some large hives for market, and wished to dispose of the bees without sulphur, and try theexperiment of uniting two or more. The next spring when they commencedwork such double stocks promised much; but when the swarming seasonarrived, the single swarms, such as were good and had just about beesenough, were in the best condition, in ordinary seasons. Whether thiswas owing to the circumstance of there being already bees enough thatwere beginning to crowd and interfere with each other's labors, andless brood raised in consequence, or to some other reason, I cannotsay. I have often noticed, (as others have), that stocks which havecast no swarms, are no better the next spring than others. The samecause might operate in both cases. Therefore it would appearunnecessary to unite two or more _good swarms_, unless it is to spareour feelings in destroying the bees. The two extremes may generally beavoided, and not have too many or too few bees. 

SEASON FOR OPERATING. 

The season for operating is, generally, when all the brood has maturedand left the cells. The exceptions are when there are not bees enoughto protect the stores; it may then be necessary, immediately after thefailure of honey. 

Col. H. K. Oliver, of Salem, Mass. , is said to be the inventor of thefumigator, an instrument to burn fungus (_puff-ball_). By the aid ofthis the smoke is blown in the hive, paralyzing the bees in a fewminutes; when they fall to the bottom, apparently dead, but willrecover in a few minutes, on receiving fresh air. 

THE FUMIGATOR. 

I am indebted to a communication from J. M. Weeks, published on page151 of the Cultivator for 1841, for this method. The description of thefumigator that I constructed will vary a trifle from his, but willretain the principle. I obtained a tin tube four inches long, and twoin diameter. Next, I made a stopper of soft wood, three inches long, toexactly fit one end of the tube when driven in half an inch, andsecured it by little nails driven through the tin. Through the centreof this stopper I made a hole one-fourth of an inch in diameter. Toprevent this hole filling up, the end in the tube was covered over withwire cloth, made a little convex. The end of this stopper was cut downto about half an inch, tapering it from the tin. For the other end asimilar piece of wood is fitted, though a little longer, and not to befastened, as it must be taken out for every operation. The outer end ofthis is cut down into a shape to be taken into the mouth, or attachedto the pipe of a bellows. (I fitted them in the turning lathe, buthave seen them fixed very nicely without. ) It could all be made of tin;but then it is necessary to use solder, which is liable to melt andcause leaks. 

[Illustration: FUMIGATOR. ]

"The puff-balls must not be too much injured by remaining in theweather, and should be picked, if possible, just before they are ripeand burst open. When not thoroughly dry, put them in the oven after thebread is out. " When used, the cuticle or rind must be carefullyremoved; ignite it by a lamp or coal (it will not blaze in burning), blow it, and get it thoroughly started, before putting it in the tube. Put in the stopper, and blow through it; if it smokes well, you areready to proceed. When it does not burn freely, unstop and shake itout. The dry air is much better than moist breath at the commencement. 

DIRECTIONS FOR UNITING TWO FAMILIES. 

The hive to receive the bees is inverted, the other set over it rightend up, all crevices stopped to prevent the escape of the smoke. Nowinsert the end of the fumigator into a hole in the side of the hive(which if not made before will need to be now); blow into the otherend, this forces the smoke into the hive; in two minutes you may hearthe bees begin to fall. Both hives should be smoked; the upper one themost, as we want all the bees out of that. The other only needs enoughto make the scent of the bees similar to those introduced. At the endof eight or ten minutes, the upper hive may be raised, and any beessticking between the combs brushed down with a quill. The two queens inthis case are of course together; one will be destroyed, and nodifficulty arise. But if either of them is a young one, and you havebeen convinced by some "bee-doctor" that such are much more prolific, and happen to know which hive contains her, and wish that one to bepreserved, you can do so by varying the process a little. Instead ofinverting one hive, set them both on a cloth right side up, and smokethe bees; the queens are easily found, while they are all paralyzed;then put the bees all together. The hive should now have a thin clothtied over the bottom, to prevent the escape of the bees. Before theyare fully recovered, they seem rather bewildered, and some of them getaway. Set the hive right end up, and raise it an inch; the bees drop onthe cloth, and fresh air passing under soon revives them. In fromtwelve to twenty-four hours, they may be let out. 

Families put together in this way will seldom quarrel (not more thanone in twenty), but remain together, defending themselves againstintruders as one swarm. 

I once had a stock nearly destitute of bees, with abundant stores forwintering a large family. I had let it down on the floor-board, and wason the lookout for an attack. The other bees soon discovered thisweakness, and commenced carrying off the honey. I had brought home aswarm to reinforce them only the day before, and immediately unitedthem by means of the fumigator. The next morning I let them out, allowing them to issue only at the hole in the side of the hive. It wasamusing to witness the apparent consternation of the robbers that wereon hand for more plunder; they had been there only the day before, andhad been allowed to enter and depart without even being questioned. Butlo! a change had come over the matter. Instead of open doors and a freepassage, the first bee that touched the hive was seized and very rudelyhandled, and at last dispatched with a sting. A few others receivingsimilar treatment, they began to exercise a little caution, then triedto find admission on the back side, and other places; and attempted oneor two others on either side, perhaps thinking they were mistaken inthe hive; but these being strong, repulsed them, and they finally gaveit up. I mention this to show how easy it is, with a little care, toprevent robberies at this season. Too many complaints are made aboutbees being robbed; it is very disagreeable. Suppose that _none wereplundered through carelessness_; this complaint would soon be a rarething. 

UNITING WITH TOBACCO SMOKE. 

By the use of tobacco smoke, bees may be united with nearly the samesuccess. First, smoke the two to be united, thoroughly; disturb themand smoke again, that all may become partially drunk, and acquire thesame scent. Then invert both hives, and with your pruning tools, cutthe combs down on the sides of the hive, and across the top, and takeout one comb at a time with the bees on it, and brush them with a quillinto the other hive; they immediately go down among the combs, withoutonce thinking it necessary to sting you. When done, the bees are to beconfined, the same as in the other method. I do not like this method aswell as the first, and do not resort to it when I can get thepuff-ball. The bees are more liable to disagree, and it compels me totake out the comb, which I do not always like to do at the time. Toavoid it, I have tried to drive them, but when the hive is only partfull of combs, or contains but few bees, it is a slow job; and more soin cool weather. 

CONDITION OF STOCKS IN 1851. 

The latter part of the summer of 1851 was very dry and cold; the yieldof buckwheat honey was not a tenth of the usual quantity; theconsequence was, that none but early swarms had sufficient honey forwinter; twenty-five pounds is required to make it _safe_ in thissection. I had over thirty young swarms with less than that quantity. Feeding for winter I avoid when I can; they would not winter as theywere; and yet I made the most of them good stocks for the next summerby the following plan. 

HOW THEY WERE MANAGED. 

I had about twenty old stocks with diseased brood, and but few bees, yet _honey enough_. Now this honey appears healthy enough for the oldbees, and fatal only to the young brood. 

I transferred the bees of these new swarms to the old stocks with blackcomb and diseased brood. The bees were thus wintered on honey of butlittle account any way, and all that was in the others, new andhealthy, was saved. These new hives were set in a cold dry place forwinter; _right end up_, to prevent much of the honey from dripping outof the cells; some will leak then, but not as much as when the hive isbottom up. Honey that runs out, when the hive is bottom up, will soakinto the wood at the base of the combs; this will have a tendency toloosen the fastenings, and render them liable to fall, &c. 

The next March the bees were again transferred from the old to the newhives. My method is as follows: As the combs in the hive to receive thebees are rather cold, I set them by the fire, or in a warm room, forseveral hours previous. I take a warm room before a window, and as somefew bees fly off, they will collect there. The new hive is turnedbottom up on the floor; the old one on a bench by the side of it, having smoked the bees to keep them quiet. One comb at a time is takenout, and the bees brushed into the new hive; (a little smoke will keepthem there). When through, I get the few on the window, and tie over acloth to confine them, and keep them warm for a few hours longer. Paralyzing with puff-ball will answer instead, but they do not alwaysall fall out of the combs when the hive is filled to the bottom, and itis possible that if a few were left, the queen might be one. Also avery few bees are worth saving at this season, and the combs might haveto be broken out at last, for this purpose. 

When a good-sized family is put in a hive containing fifteen or twentypounds of honey, and near half full of clean new comb, they are aboutas sure to fill up and cast a swarm, as another that is full and haswintered a swarm. 

CAUSE OF THEIR SUPERIOR THRIFT. 

One cause of superior thrift may be found in the circumstance, that allmoth eggs and worms are frozen to death, and the bees are not troubledwith a single worm before June. No young bees have to be removed towork them out. Nearly every young bee that is fed and sealed up, comesforth perfect, and of course makes a vast difference in the increase. 

SWARMS PARTLY FILLED PAY BETTER THAN TO CUT OUT THE HONEY. 

Any person wishing to increase his stocks to the utmost, will find thisplan of saving all part-filled hives, of much more advantage than tobreak it out for sale. Suppose you have an old stock that needspruning, and have neglected it, or it has refused to swarm, and giveyou a chance without destroying too much brood. You can let it be, andput on the boxes; perhaps get twenty-five pounds of cap honey; and thenwinter the bees as described, and in the spring transfer them to thenew combs. Again, if there is no stocks to be transferred in thespring, keep them till the swarming season. If a swarm put into anempty hive would just fill it, the same swarm put into one containingfifteen pounds of honey, it seems plain, would make that number ofpounds in boxes. The advantage is, in the comparative value of box orcap honey over that stored in the hive; the difference being fromthirty to a hundred per cent. 

ADVANTAGES IN TRANSFERRING. 

I would now like to show the advantages I derived in transferring thetwenty swarms before mentioned. We will suppose that each family, fromthe first of October till April, consumed twenty pounds of honey. Thatin the centre combs, where there is most bee-bread, &c. , is eatenfirst; if any is left, it is at the top and outside. If I had attemptedto take out and strain this twenty pounds in the fall, it would havebeen so mixed with dead brood, and bee-bread, that I probably shouldhave rejected most of it. The remainder, when strained, might have beenfive pounds, not more. The market price for it is about ten cents perpound; amount fifty cents. We will say the new hive kept through thewinter to receive the bees in the spring contained fifteen pounds; thiswould also have averaged about ten cents per pound, amounting to $1. 50. All that a stock of this kind costs me appears to be just $2. 00, andworth at least $5. 00. The advantage in changing twenty would be $60. 00. The labor of transferring will offset against the trouble of straining, preparing, and the expense of getting the honey to market. 

ANOTHER METHOD OF UNITING TWO FAMILIES. 

I have occasionally adopted yet another method of making a good stockfrom two poor ones, which the reader may prefer. When all your oldstocks have been reinforced that need it, and you still have someswarms with too few bees and too little honey for safety as they are, two or more can be united. The fact, which has been thoroughly tested, that two families of bees, when united and wintered in one hive, willconsume but little, if any more, than each of them would separately, isa very important principle in this matter. If each family should havefifteen pounds of honey, they would consume it all, and probably starveat last, after eating thirty pounds. But if the contents of both werein one hive, it would be amply sufficient, and some to spare in thespring. 

UNITING COMB AND HONEY AS WELL AS BEES. 

The process of uniting them is simple. Smoke both the stocks or swarmsthoroughly, and turn them over. Choose the one with the straightestcombs, or the one nearest full, to receive the contents of the other;trim off the points of the combs to make them square across, and thisone is ready; remove the sticks from the other, and with your toolstake out the combs with the bees on as before directed, one at a time, and carefully set them on the edges of the other; if the shape willadmit it, let the edges match; if not, let them cross. Small bits ofwood or rolls of paper will be needed between them, to preserve theright distance. When both hives are of one size, the transferred combswill exactly fit, if you are careful to place them as they were before. You will now want to know, "what is to prevent these combs from fallingout when the hive is turned over?" This hive is to remain bottom up insome dark place for some time, or till spring. (See method of winteringbees. ) The bees will immediately join these combs fast; the hive beinginverted, the honey in these combs will be consumed first; and when thehive is again set out in spring, it will be a rare occurrence for anypieces to drop out. Should any pieces project beyond the bottom of thehive, they may be trimmed off even after they are fastened, any timebefore setting out. An additional cross-stick may pass under the bottomof the combs, to assist in holding them, if you desire. You willprobably never discover any difference in the subsequent prosperity inconsequence of the joining or crossing of the combs in the middle. Ihave had them in this way, when they were among the most prosperous ofmy stocks. As this operation is to be put off till November, it will bean advantage in another way; that is, families of the same apiary canbe united, and will mostly forget the old location by spring, and nodifficulty arise by returning to the old stand, etc. 

WHEN FEEDING SHOULD BE DONE FOR STOCK HIVES. 

In some sections of country the _honey_ is more frequently wanting thanbees, or comb, and some seasons in this; in such cases, it will befound an advantage to feed, until enough is stored for winter. Thisshould be done in September or October. But if they lack comb as wellas honey, and you wish to try feeding, (which I seldom do lately, ) itshould be done if possible in warm weather, as they cannot work combsto advantage in the cold. While feeding bees, it requires a great dealof caution to prevent others from scenting the honey, and theircontentions about it. The safest place is on the top of the hive, witha good cap over; but they will not work quite as fast, especially ifthe weather is cool. The next best place is under the bottom in themanner described in Chapter IX. 

Setting out honey to feed all at once, I condemn wholly. Thesedisadvantages attend it: strong stocks that do not need an ounce, willget two or three pounds, while those weaker ones, needing it more, willnot get one. Nearly every stock, in a short time, will be fighting. Probably the first bee that comes home with a load, will inform anumber of its fellows that a treasure is close at hand. A number willsally out immediately, without waiting for particular directions forfinding it; and mistaking other hives for the place, alight there, areseized and probably dispatched. As soon as the honey given them isgone, the tumult is greatly increased, and great numbers are destroyed. If any of your neighbors near you have bees, you must expect to dividewith them. 

If the honey to be fed is in the comb, and your hives are not full, andthey are to be wintered in the house, bottom up, it may be done at anytime through the winter, merely by laying pieces with honey on those inthe hive. The bees readily remove the contents into their own combs;when empty, remove them and put in more until they have a full supply. They will join such pieces of comb to their own; yet there will be noharm in breaking them loose. The principal objection to feeding in thisway, will be found in the tendency to make them uneasy and disposed toleave the hive, when we want them as quiet as possible, A thin muslincloth, or other means, will be necessary to confine them to the hive. 

I have now given directions to avoid killing any family of bees worthsaving, if we choose. 

When such as need feeding have been fed, and all weak families madestrong by additions, etc. , but little more fall work is needed in theapiary. It is only when you have weak stocks, unfit to winter, that itis necessary to be on the lookout every warm day to prevent pillage. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

WINTERING BEES. 

There is almost as much diversity of opinion with respect to winteringbees as in the construction of hives, and about as difficult toreconcile. 

DIFFERENT METHODS HAVE BEEN ADOPTED. 

One will tell you to keep them warm, another to keep them cold; to keepthem in the sun, out of the sun, bury them in the ground, put them inthe cellar, the chamber, wood-house, and other places, and no places atall; that is, to let them remain as they are, without any attention. Here are plans enough to drive the inexperienced into despair. Yet Ihave no doubt but that bees have been sometimes successfully winteredby all these contradictory methods. That some of these methods aresuperior to others, needs no argument to illustrate. But what method_is best_, is our province to inquire. Let us endeavor to examine thesubject without prejudice to bias our judgment. 

THE IDEA OF BEES NOT FREEZING HAS LED TO ERRORS IN PRACTICE. 

By close observation we shall probably discover that the assertion sooften repeated, that bees have never frozen except when without honey, has led to an erroneous practice. 

APPEARANCE OF BEES IN COLD WEATHER. 

We will first endeavor to examine the condition of a stock left tonature, without any care, and see if it affords any hints for ourguidance, when to assist and protect with artificial means. 

Warmth being the first requisite, a family of bees at the approach ofcold weather crowd together in a globular form, into a compasscorresponding to the degree of cold; when at zero it is much less thanat thirty above. Those on the outside of this cluster are somewhatstiffened with cold; while those inside are as brisk and lively as insummer. In severe weather every possible space within their circle isoccupied; even each cell not containing pollen or honey will hold abee. Suppose this cluster is sufficiently compact for mutual warmth, with the mercury at 40, and a sudden change brings it down to zero, ina few hours, this body of bees, like most other things, speedilycontracts by the cold. The bees on the outside, being already chilled, a portion of them that does not keep up with the shrinking mass, isleft exposed at a distance from their fellows, and receive but littlebenefit of the warmth generated there; they part with their vitality, and are lost. 

HOW PART OF THE SWARM IS FROZEN. 

A good family will form a ball or circle about eight inches indiameter, generally about equal every way, and must occupy the spacesbetween four or five combs. As combs must separate them into divisions, the two outer ones are smallest, and most exposed of any; these areoften found frozen to death in severe weather. Should evidence bewanting from other sources to show that bees will freeze to death, theabove would seem to furnish it. It is said, "that in Poland bees arewintered in a semi-torpid state, in consequence of the extreme cold. "We must either doubt the correctness of this relation, or suppose thebee of that country a different insect from ours--a kind of semi-wasp, that will live through the winter, and eat little or nothing. Thereader can have no difficulty in deciding which is the most probable, whether _bees are bees_ throughout the world, endowed with the samefaculties and instincts, or that the facts as they are, are notprecisely given, especially when we see what our own apiarians tell usabout their never freezing. 

Here I might use strong language in contradiction; but as I am awarethat such a course is not always the most convincing, I prefer the testof close observation. If bees will freeze, it is important to know it, and in what circumstances. 

HOW A SMALL FAMILY MAY ALL FREEZE. 

Suppose a quart of bees were put in a box or hive where all the cellswere filled and lengthened out with honey; the spaces between the combswould be about one-fourth of an inch--only room for one thickness ofbees to spread through. The combs would perhaps be one and a half ortwo inches thick. All the warmth that could be generated then, would beby one course or layer of bees, an inch and a half apart. Althoughevery bee would have food in abundance without changing its position, the first turn of severe weather would probably destroy the whole. This, it may be said, "is an unnatural situation. " I will admit that itis; the case was only supposed for illustration. I know that theirwinter quarters are among the brood combs, where the hatching of thebrood leaves most of the cells empty; and the space between the combsis half an inch; a wise and beautiful arrangement; as ten times thenumber of bees can pack themselves within a circle of six inches, ascan in the other case; and in consequence the same number of bees cansecure much more animal heat, and endure the cold much better; but a_small_ family, even here, will often be found frozen, as well asstarving. 

FROST AND ICE SOMETIMES SMOTHER BEES. 

Besides freezing, there are other facts to be observed in stocks whichstand in the cold. If we examine the interior of a hive containing amedium-sized swarm, on the first severely cold morning, except in theimmediate vicinity of the bees, we shall find the combs and sides ofthe hive covered with a white frost. In the middle of the day, or assoon as the temperature is slightly raised, this begins to melt, --firstnext to the bees, then at the sides. A succession of cold nights willprevent the evaporation of this moisture; and this process of freezingand thawing, at the end of a week or two, will form icicles sometimesas large as a man's finger, attached to the combs and the sides of thehive. When the bottom of the hive is close to the floor, it forms asealing around the edges, perfectly air-tight, and your bees aresmothered. I have frequently heard bee-keepers say in these cases, "Thestorm blew in, and formed ice all round the bottom, and froze my beesto death. " Others that have had their bees in a cold room, finding themthus, "could not see how the water and ice could get there any way;were quite sure it was not there when carried in, " &c. Probably theynever dreamed of its being accounted for philosophically, and toanalyze anything pertaining to bees would be rather small business. Butwhat way can it be accounted for?

FROST AND ICE IN A HIVE ACCOUNTED FOR. 

Physiologists tell us "that innumerable pores in the cuticle of thehuman body are continually throwing off waste or worn out matter; thatevery exhalation of air carries with it a portion of water from thesystem, in warm weather unperceived, but will be condensed intoparticles large enough to be seen in a cold atmosphere. " Now, ifanalogy be allowed here, we will say the bee throws of waste matter andwater in the same way. Its food being liquid, nearly all will beexhaled--in moderate weather it will pass off, but in the cold it iscondensed--the particles lodge on the combs in form of frost, andaccumulate as long as the weather is very severe, a portion melting inthe day, and freezing again at night. 

THE EFFECT OF ICE OR FROST ON BEES AND COMB. 

When the bees are not smothered, this water in the hive is the sourceof other mischief. The combs are quite certain to mould. The watermould or dampness on the honey renders it thin, and unhealthy for thebees, causing dysentery, or the accumulation of fæces that they areunable to retain. When the hive contains a very large family, or a verysmall one, there will be less frost on the combs, --the animal heat ofthe first will drive it off; in the latter there will be but littleexhaled. 

FROST MAY CAUSE STARVATION. 

This frost is frequently the cause of medium or small families starvingin cold weather, even when there is plenty of honey in the hive. Suppose all the honey in the immediate vicinity of the cluster of beesis exhausted, and, the combs in every direction from them are coveredwith frost; if a bee should leave the mass and venture among them for asupply, its fate would be as certain as starvation. And without timelyintervention of warmer weather, they _must_ perish!

OTHER DIFFICULTIES. 

Should they escape starving, there is another difficulty oftenattending them in continued cold weather. I said that small familiesexhaled but little. Let us see if we can explain the effect. 

There is not sufficient animal heat generated to exhale the aqueousportion of their food. The philosophy that explains why a man in warmblood and in profuse perspiration would throw off or exhale moremoisture than in a quiet state, will illustrate this. The bees in thesecircumstances must retain the water with the excrementitious part, which soon distends their bodies to the utmost, rendering them unableto endure it long. Their cleanly habits, that ordinarily save the combsfrom being soiled, is not a sure protection now, and they are compelledto leave the mass very often in the severest weather, to expel thisunnatural accumulation of fæces. It is frequently discharged evenbefore leaving the comb, but most of it at the entrance; also somescattered on the front side of the hive, and a short distance from it. In a moderately warm day, more bees will issue from a hive in thiscondition than from others; it appears that a part of them are unableto discharge their burden--their weight prevents their flying--they getdown and are lost. When cold weather is too long continued, they cannotwait for warm days to leave, but continue to come out at any time; andnot one of such can then return. The cluster inside the hive is thusreduced in numbers till they are unable to generate heat sufficient tokeep from freezing. With the indications attendant upon such losses, myown observation has made me somewhat familiar, as the followingconversation will illustrate. 

FURTHER ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A neighbor who wished to purchase some stock hives in the fall, requested my assistance in selecting them. We applied to a perfectstranger; his bees had passed the previous winter in the open air. Ifound on looking among them that he had lost some of them from thiscause, as the excrement was yet about the entrance of one oldweather-beaten hive, that was now occupied by a young swarm, and wasabout half filled with combs. 

I saw at once what had been the matter, and felt quite confident that Icould give its owner a correct history of it. "Sir, " said I, "you havebeen unfortunate with the bees that were in this hive last winter; Ithink I can give you some particulars respecting it. "

"Ah, what makes you think so? I would like to hear you guess; toencourage you, I will admit that there has been something ratherpeculiar about it. "

"One year ago you considered that a good stock-hive; it was well filledwith honey, a good family of bees, and two or three years old or more. You had as much confidence in its wintering as any other; but duringthe cold weather, somehow, the bees unaccountably disappeared, leavingbut a very few, and they were found frozen to death. You discovered ittowards spring, on a warm day. When you removed the combs, you probablynoticed a great many spots of excrement deposited on them, as well ason the sides of the hive, particularly near the entrance. Also one-halfor more of the breeding cells contained dead brood, in a putrid state;and this summer you have used the old hive for a new swarm. "

"You are right, sir, in every particular. Now, I would like to knowwhat gave you the idea of my losing the bees in that hive? I can seenothing peculiar about that old hive, more than this one, " pointing toanother that also contained a new swarm. "You will greatly oblige me ifyou will point out the signs particularly. "

"I will do so with pleasure" (feeling quite willing to give him theimpression that I was "posted up" on this subject, notwithstanding itsavored strongly of boasting). 

I then directed his attention to the entrance in the side of the hive, where the bees had discharged their fæces, on the moment they issued, until it was near the eighth of an inch thick, and two or three inchesbroad; that yet remained, and just began to cleave off. "You see thisbrown substance around this hole in the hive?"

"Yes, it is bee-glue (_propolis_); it is very common on old hives. "

"I think not; if you will examine it closely, you will perceive it isnot so hard and bright; it already begins to crumble; bee-glue is notaffected by the weather for years. "

"Just so, but what is it, and what has that to do with yourguess-work?"

"It is the excrement of the bees. In consequence of a great many cellscontaining dead brood, which the bees could not enter, they were unableto pack themselves close enough to secure sufficient animal heat toexhale or drive off the water in their food, it was therefore retainedin their bodies till they were distended beyond endurance--they wereunable to wait for a warm day--necessity compelled them to issue dailyduring the coldest weather, discharging their fæces the moment ofpassing the entrance, and part of them before. They were immediatelychilled, and could not return; the quantity left about this entranceshows that a great many must have come out. That they came out in coldweather is proved by its being left on the hive, because in warmweather they _leave_ the hive for this purpose. "

"This is a new idea; at present it seems to be correct; I will think itover. But how did you know that it was not a new swarm; that it waswell filled?"

"When looking under it just now, I saw that combs of a dark color hadbeen attached to the sides near the bottom, below where those are atpresent; this indicates that it had been full, and the dark color thatit was not new. Also, a swarm early and large enough to fill such ahive the first season, would not be very likely to be affected by thecold in this way. "

"Why not? I think this hive was crowded with bees as much as any of mynew swarms. "

"I have no doubt they appeared so; but we are very liable to bedeceived in such cases, by the dead brood in the combs. Amoderate-sized family in such a hive will make more show than somelarger ones that have empty cells to creep into, and can pack closer. "

"But how did you know about the dead brood?"

"Because old stocks are thus often reduced and lost. "

"What were the indications of its being filled with honey?"

"Combs are seldom attached to the side of the hive farther down thanthey are filled with honey. In this hive the combs had been attached tothe bottom, consequently must have been full. Another thing, unless thefamily is very much reduced, the hive is generally well stored, evenwhen diseased. "

"Why did you suppose it was near spring before I discovered it?"

"I took the chances of guessing. The majority of bee-keepers, you know, are rather careless, and when they have fixed their bees for winter, seldom give them much more attention, till they begin to fly out in thespring. "

"But what should I have done had I discovered the bees coming out?"

"As it was affected with dead brood, it was but little use to doanything; you would have lost it eventually. But if it had been a stockotherwise healthy, and was affected in this way only because it was asmall family, or the severity of the weather, you could have taken itto a warm room, and turned it bottom up; the animal heat would thenconvert the most of the water contained in their food into vapor; thatwould rise from the hive, and the bees could retain the excrementitiousportion without difficulty till spring. "

"I suppose you must get along without losing many through the winter, if I may judge by your confident explanations. "

"I can assure you I have but little fear on this head. If I can havethe privilege of selecting proper stocks, I will engage not to lose onein a hundred. "

"How do you manage? I would be glad to obtain a method in which I couldfeel as perfectly safe as you appear to. "

"The first important requisite is to have all good ones to start with. Enough weak families are united together till they are strong, or someother disposition made of them. " I then gave him an outline of mymethod of wintering, which I can confidently recommend to the reader. 

ACCUMULATION OF FÆCES DESCRIBED BY SOME WRITERS AS A DISEASE. 

This accumulation of fæces is considered by many writers as adisease--a kind of dysentery. It is described as affecting them towardsspring, and several remedies are given. Now if what I have beendescribing is not the dysentery, why I must think I never had a case ofit; but I shall still persist in guessing it to be the same, andsuppose that inattention with many must be the reason that it is notdiscovered in cold weather, at the time that it takes place. Somestocks may be badly affected, yet not lost entirely, when moderateweather will stop its progress. When a remedy is applied in the spring, long after the cause ceases to operate, it would be singular if it wasnot effectual. I have no doubt but some have taken the naturaldischarge of fæces, that always takes place in spring when the beesleave the hive, for a disease. Others, when looking for a cause fordiseased brood, and found the combs and hive somewhat besmeared, haveassigned this as sufficient; but according to my view, have reversedit, giving the effect before the cause. 

THE AUTHOR'S REMEDY. 

For a time, I supposed that this moisture on the combs gradually mixedwith the honey, making it thin, and that the bees eating so much waterwith their food, would affect them as described. Some experiments thatfollowed, induced me to assign cold as the cause, as I always found, when I put them where it was sufficiently warm, that an immediate curewas the result, or at least, it enabled them to retain their fæces tillset out in the spring. 

BURYING BEES. 

Burying bees in the earth below the frost, has been recommended as asuperior method of wintering, for small families. I have known itconfidently asserted, that they would lose nothing in weight, and nobees would die. I found, in testing it, that a medium quantity of honeysufficed, and but very few were lost, perhaps less than by any othermethod. Yet the combs were mouldy, and unfit for further use. There wasno escape for the vapor and dampness of the earth. This did not satisfyme; it only cured "one disease by instituting another. " I saved thebees, (and perhaps some honey), but the combs were spoiled. 

EXPERIMENTS OF THE AUTHOR TO GET RID OF THE FROST. 

I wished to keep them warm, and save the bees as well as honey, and atthe same time, get rid of the moisture. I found that a large familyexpelled it much better than small ones; and if all were put togetherin a close room, the animal heat from a large number combined, would bean advantage to the weak ones, at least, --this proved of some benefit. Yet I found on the sides of a glass hive, that large drops of waterwould stand for weeks. 

SUCCESS IN THIS MATTER. 

The following suggestion then came to my relief. If this hive wasbottom up, what would prevent all this vapor as it arises from the beesfrom passing off? (It always rises when warm, if permitted. ) The hivewas inverted; in a few hours the glass was dry. 

This was so perfectly simple, that I wondered I had not thought of itbefore, and wondered still more that some one of the many intelligentapiarians had never discovered it. I immediately inverted every hive inthe room, and kept them in this way till spring; when the combs wereperfectly bright, not a particle of mould to be seen, and was wellsatisfied with the result of my experiment. Although I was fearful thatmore bees would leave the hives when inverted, than if right side up, yet the result showed no difference. I had now tried both methods, andhad some means of judging. 

BEES WHEN IN THE HOUSE SHOULD BE KEPT PERFECTLY DARK. 

When not kept perfectly dark, a few would leave the hives in eithercase. I have found it much better to make the room dark to keep thebees in the hive, than to tie over them a thin muslin cloth, as thatprevents a free passage of the vapor, and a great number of full stockswere not at all satisfied in confinement; and were continuallyworrying, and biting at the cloth, till they had made several holesthrough it for passages out. Thus the little good was attended by anevil, as an offset. Even wire cloth put over to confine them, whichwould be effectual, would not save bees enough to pay expense. I havethus wintered them for the last ten years, and am extremely doubtful ifa better way can be found. [17] For several years I made use of a smallbed-room in the house, made perfectly dark, in which I put about 100stocks. It was lathed and plastered, and no air admitted, except whatmight come through the floor. It was single, and laid rather close, though not matched. 

 [17] I was so well pleased with my success, especially with small families, that I detailed the most important points in a communication to the Dollar Newspaper, Philadelphia, published November, 1848. 

A ROOM MADE FOR WINTERING BEES. 

In the fall of 1849 I built a room for this purpose; the frame waseight by sixteen feet square, and seven high, without any windows. Agood coat of plaster was put on the inside, a space of four inchesbetween the siding and lath was filled with saw-dust; under the bottomI constructed a passage for the admission of air, from the north side;another over head for its exit, to be closed and opened at pleasure, inmoderate weather, to give them fresh air, but closed when cold, and soarranged as to exclude all the light. 

A partition was extended across near the centre. This was to preventdisturbing the whole by letting in light when carrying them out in thespring. By closing the door of this partition, those in one room onlyneed be disturbed at once. 

MANNER OF STOWING AWAY BEES. 

Shelves to receive the hives were arranged in tiers one above theother; they were loose, to be taken down and put up at pleasure. Suppose we begin at the back end: the first row is turned directly onthe floor, a shelf is then put across a few inches above them, andfilled, and then another shelf, still above, when we again begin on thefloor, and continue thus till the room is full; or if the room is notto be filled, the shelves may be fixed around the sides of the room intwo or three courses. This last arrangement will make it veryconvenient to inspect them at any time through the winter, yet theyshould be disturbed as little as possible. The manner of stowing eachone is to open the holes in the top, then lay down two square sticks, such as are made by splitting a board, of suitable length, into piecesabout an inch wide. The hive is inverted on these; it gives a freecirculation through the hive, and carries off all the moisture as fastas generated. 

TEMPERATURE OF ROOM. 

The temperature of such a room will vary according to the number andstrength of the stocks put in; 100 or more would be very sure to keepit above the freezing point at all times. Putting a very few into sucha room, and depending on the bees to make it warm enough, would be ofdoubtful utility. If these means will not keep the proper temperature, probably some other method would be better. All full stocks would dowell enough, as they would almost any way. Yet I shall recommendhousing them whenever practicable. If the number of stocks is few, letthe room be proportionably small. [18] It is the smallest families thatare most trouble: if they are too cold, it may be known by bees leavingthe hive in cold weather, and spots of excrement on the combs; theyshould then have some additional protection; close part or all of theholes in the top, cover the open bottom partially or wholly, andconfine to the hive as much as possible the animal heat; when thesemeans fail, it may be necessary to take them to a warm room, during thecoldest weather. 

 [18] As an additional proof that this method of inverting hives in the house for winter is valuable, I would say that Mr. Miner, author of the American Bee-Keeper's Manual, seems fully to appreciate it. In. The fall of 1850, I communicated to him this method; giving my reasons for preferring it to the cold method recommended in his Manual. The trial of one winter, it appears, satisfied him of its superiority, so much so that within a year from that time he published an essay recommending it; but advised confining the bees with muslin, &c. 

TOO MUCH HONEY MAY SOMETIMES BE STORED. 

After the flowers fail, and all the brood has matured and left thecombs, it sometimes happens that a stock has an opportunity ofplundering, and rapidly filling all those cells that had been occupiedwith brood during the yield of honey, and which then effectuallyprevents their storing in them. This, then, prevents close packing, which is all-important for warmth. Although a large family, as muchcare is needed as with the smaller ones. Also such as are affected withdiseased brood should receive extra attention for the same reason. 

Some bee-keepers are unwilling to risk the bold measure of invertingthe hive, but content themselves by merely opening the holes in thetop; this is better than no ventilation, but not so effectual, as allof the moisture cannot escape. There are some who cannot divestthemselves of the idea, that if the hive is turned over, the bees mustalso stand on their heads all winter!

Rats and mice, when they find their way into such room, are less boldwith their mischief than if the hive is in its natural position. 

MANAGEMENT OF ROOM TOWARDS SPRING. 

A few warm days will often occur, towards spring, before we can get ourbees out. In these cases, a bushel or two of snow or ice pounded upshould be spread on the floor; it will absorb and carry off as it meltsmuch of the heat, that is now unnecessary, and will keep them quietmuch longer than without it; (provision for getting rid of this watershould be made when putting down the floor. )

TIME FOR SETTING OUT BEES. 

The time for carrying out bees is generally in March, but some seasonslater. A warm pleasant day is the best, and one quite cold, better thanone only _moderately_ warm. 

After their long confinement, the light attracts them out at once, (unless very cold air prevents), and if the rays of a warm sun do notkeep them active, they will soon be chilled and lost. 

Some bee-keepers take out their stocks at evening. If we could bealways sure of having the next day a fair one, it would probably be thebest time; but should it be only moderate, or cloudy, it would beattended with considerable loss--or if the next day should be quitecold, but few would leave, and then the only risk would be to get _agood day_, before one that was just warm enough to make them leave thehive, but not quite enough to enable them to return. 

NOT TOO MANY STOCKS TAKEN OUT AT ONCE. 

When too many are taken out at once, the rush from all the hives is somuch like a swarm, that it appears to confuse them. Some of the stocksby this means will get more bees than actually belong to them, whileothers are proportionably short, which is unprofitable, and to equalizethem is some trouble; yet it may be done. Being all wintered in oneroom, the scent or the means of distinguishing their own family fromstrangers, becomes so much alike, that they mix together withoutcontention. 

FAMILIES MAY BE EQUALIZED. 

By taking advantage of this immediately, or before the scent has againchanged, and each hive has something peculiar to _itself_, you canchange the stands of very weak and very strong families. 

To prevent, as far as possible, some of these bad effects, I preferwaiting for a fair day to begin, and then not until the day has becomesufficiently warm to make it safe from chill. 

SNOW NEED NOT ALWAYS PREVENT CARRYING OUT BEES. 

I am not particular about the snow being gone--if it has only lain longenough to have melted a part of it, it is "terra firma" to a bee, andanswers equally well as the bare earth. When the day is right, aboutten o'clock I put out twelve or fifteen, taking care that each hiveoccupies its old stand, at the same time endeavoring to take such aswill be as far apart as possible; (to make this convenient, they shouldbe carried in in the manner that you wish them to come out. ) When therush from these hives is over, and the majority of the bees has goneback, I set out as many more about twelve o'clock, and when the daycontinues fair, another lot about two. In the morning, while cool, Imove from the back to the first apartment, about as many as I wish toset out in a day, except a few at the last. 

To do this in the middle of the day, while warm, would induce a goodmany bees to leave the hive, while the light was admitted, and whichwould be lost. It will be supposed generally that their longconfinement makes them thus impatient to get out; but I have frequentlyreturned stocks during a cold turn of weather after they had been out, and always found such equally as anxious to come out, as those whichhad been confined throughout the winter; without the airings, I havekept them thus confined, for five months, without difficulty! Theimportant requisites are, sufficient warmth and perfect darkness. 

DOES NOT ANALOGY PROVE THAT BEES SHOULD BE KEPT WARM IN WINTER?

Opposition to this method of wintering will arise with those who havealways thought that bees must be kept cold; "the colder the better. " Iwould suggest for their consideration the possibility of some analogybetween bees and some of the warm-blooded animals--the horse, ox, andsheep, for instance, that require a constant supply of food, that theymay generate as much caloric as is thrown off on the cold air. Thisseems to be regulated by the degree of cold, else why do they refusethe large quantity of tempting provender in the warm days of spring, and greedily devour it in the pelting storm? The fact is pretty welldemonstrated, that the quantity of food needed for the same conditionin spring, is much less when protected from the inclemency of theweather, than when exposed to the severe cold. The bee, unlike thewasp, when once penetrated with frost, is dead--_their temperature mustbe kept considerably above the freezing point, and to do this, food isrequired_. Now if the bees are governed by the same laws, and cold aircarries off more heat than warm, and their source of renewing it is inthe consumption of honey in proportion to the degree of cold, commonsense would say, keep them warm as possible. As a certain degree ofheat is necessary in all stocks, it may take about such a quantity ofhoney to produce it, and this may explain why a small family requiresabout the same amount of food as others that are very large. 

THE NEXT BEST PLACE FOR WINTERING BEES. 

A _dry_, warm cellar is the next best place for wintering them; theapiarian having one perfectly dark, with room to spare, will find it avery good place, in the absence of a room above ground. If a largenumber was put in, some means of ventilation should be contrived forwarm turns of weather. I know an apiarian, who by my suggestion haswintered from sixty to eighty stocks in this way, for the last sixyears, with perfect success, not having lost one. Another has winteredthirty with equal safety. 

As for burying them in the earth, I have not the least doubt, if a dryplace should be selected, the hive inverted, and surrounded with hay, straw, or some substance to absorb the moisture, and protected from therain, at the top of the covering, that perfect success would attend theexperiment. But this is only theory; when I tried the experiment ofburying, and had the combs mould, the hives ware right side up. 

EVILS OF WINTERINGS IN THE OPEN AIR CONSIDERED. 

As a great many bee-keepers will find it inconvenient, or be unable toavail themselves of my method of wintering, it will be well enough tosee how far the evils of the open air, which we have already glancedat, may be successfully avoided. I am told by those who have triedwintering them in straw hives, that in this respect they are much saferthan those made of boards; probably the straw will absorb the moisture. But as these hives are more trouble to construct, and their shape willprevent the use of suitable boxes for surplus honey, this one advantagewill hardly balance the loss. They are said also to be more liable toinjury from the moth. We want a hive that will unite advantageously asmany points as possible. 

It should be remembered that bees always need air, especially in thecold. [19] With this in view, we will try to dispose of the vapor orfrost. If the hive is raised sufficient to let it out, it will let inthe mice; to prevent which, it should be raised only about one-fourthof an inch. The hole in the side should be nearly covered with wirecloth to keep out the mice; but give a passage for the bees; otherwisethey collect here, endeavoring to get out, and remain till chilled, andthus perish by hundreds. The boxes on the top must be removed, but notthe cap or cover; the holes all opened, to let the vapor pass up intothe chamber; if this is made with perfectly close joints, so that noair escapes, it should be raised a very little; otherwise not. Themoisture will condense on the sides and top, when it melts will followthe sides to the bottom, and pass out; the rabbeting around the top ofthe hive will prevent its getting to the holes, and down among thebees. It will be easily comprehended, that a hole between each twocombs at the top, (as mentioned in the subject of putting on theboxes, ) will ventilate the hive much better than where there is but oneor two, or where there is a row of several, and all are between twocombs. 

 [19] It is presumed that the inexperienced will soon learn to distinguish such bees, as die from old age or natural causes, from those affected by the cold. 

BUT LITTLE RISK WITH GOOD STOCKS. 

All _good stocks_ may be wintered in this way, with but little risk inmost situations. Whether in the bleak north-wind, buried in asnow-bank, or situated warm and pleasant, it will make no greatdifference. The mice cannot enter; the holes give them air, and carryoff moisture, &c. But second-rate stocks are not equally safe in coldsituations. 

EFFECT OF KEEPING SECOND-RATE STOCKS OUT OF THE SUN. 

It has been strongly urged, without regard to the strength of thestock, to keep them all out of the sun; because an occasional warm daywould call out the bees, when they get on the snow, and perish; this isa loss, to be sure, but there is such a thing as inducing a greater oneby endeavoring to avoid this. I have said in another place that secondrate or poor stocks might occasionally starve, with plenty of stores inthe hive, on account of frosty combs. If the hive is kept from the sun, in the cold, the periods of temperate weather might not occur as often, as the bees would exhaust the honey within their circle or cluster. Buton the contrary, when the sun can strike the hive, it warms up thebees, and melts the frost more frequently. The bees may then go amongtheir stores and obtain a supply, generally, as often as needed. Weseldom have a winter without sunny days enough for this purpose; butshould such an one occur, stocks of this class should be brought into awarm room, once in four or five days, for a few hours at a time, togive them a chance to get at the honey. Stocks much below second-ratecannot be wintered successfully in this climate; the only place forthem is the warm room. I have known bees thoroughly covered in asnow-drift, and their owner was at considerable trouble to shovel thesnow away, fearing it would smother them. This is unnecessary, whenprotected from the mice and ventilated as just directed; a snow-bank isabout as comfortable a place as they can have, except in the house. When examined a short time after being so covered, the snow for a spaceof about four inches on every side of the hive is found melted, andnone but quite poor stocks would be likely to suffer with thisprotection. A little snow around the bottom, without a vent in the sideof the hive, might smother them. 

EFFECTS OF SNOW CONSIDERED. 

As for bees getting on the snow, I apprehend that not many more arelost there, than on the frozen earth; that is, in the same kind ofweather. I have seen them chilled, and lost on the ground by hundreds, when a casual observer would not have noticed them; whereas, had theybeen on the snow, at the distance of several rods, every bee would havebeen conspicuous. Snow is not to be dreaded as much as chilly air. Suppose a hive stands in the sun throughout the winter, and bees areallowed to leave when they choose, and a portion are lost on the snow, and that it was possible to number all that were lost by gettingchilled, throughout the season, on the bare earth--the proportion (inmy opinion) lost on the snow would not be one in twenty. A person thathas not closely observed during damp or chilly weather, in April, May, or even the summer months, has no adequate conception of the number. Yet, I do not wish to be understood that it is of no consequence whatare lost on the snow, by any means. On the contrary, a great many arelost, that might be saved with proper care. But I would like to impressthe fact, that frozen earth is not safe without warm air, any more thansnow, when crusted, or a little hard. Even when snow is melting, it issolid footing for a bee; they can and do rise from it, with the sameease as from the earth. Bees that perish on snow in thesecircumstances, would be likely to be lost if there was none. 

STOCKS TO BE PROTECTED ON SOME OCCASIONS. 

The worst time for them to leave the hive is immediately after a newsnow has fallen, because if they light on it then, it does not sustaintheir weight; and they soon work themselves down out of the rays of thesun, and perish. Should it clear off pleasant, after a storm of thiskind, a little attention will probably be remunerated. Also, when theweather is moderately warm, and not sufficiently so to be safe, theyshould be kept in, whether snow is on the ground or otherwise. 

For this purpose, a wide board should be set up before the hive toprotect it from the sun, at least above the entrance in the side. Butif it grows sufficiently warm so that bees leave the hive when soshaded, it is a fair test by which to tell when it will do to let themhave a good chance to sally out freely, except in cases of a new snow, when it is advisable to confine them to the hive. The hive might be letdown on the floor-board, and the wire-cloth cover the passage in theside, and made dark for the present; raising the hive at night again, as before. I have known hundreds of stocks wintered successfullywithout any such care being taken, and the bees allowed to come outwhenever they chose to do so. Their subsequent health and prosperityproving that it is not altogether ruinous. It has been recommended toenclose the whole hive by a large box set over it, and made perfectlydark, with means for ventilation, &c. (A snow-bank would answer equallywell, if not better. ) For large families it would do well enough, aswould also other methods. But I would much rather take the chances ofletting them all stand in the sun, and issue as they please, than tohave the warmth of the sun entirely excluded from the moderate-sizedfamilies. I never knew a whole stock lost by this cause alone. [20] Yet, I have known a great many starved, merely because the sun was notallowed to melt the frost on the combs, and give them a chance to getat their stores. 

 [20] Vide other causes of loss, a few pages back. 

DO THE BEES EAT MORE WHEN ALLOWED TO COME OUT OCCASIONALLY IN WINTER?

Besides the loss of bees on the snow when standing in the sun, andtaking an airing occasionally, there are some economical bee-keeperswho urge this disadvantage, "that every time bees come out in winterthey discharge their excrement, and eat more honey in consequence ofthe vacant room. " What a ridiculous absurdity it would be to apply thisprinciple to the horse, whose health, strength, and vital heat issustained by the assimilation of food! and the farmer is not to befound who would think of saving his provender by the same means. Thatbees are supported in cold weather on the same principle is indicatedstrongly, if not conclusively. 

Is it not better (if what has been said on the subject of winteringbees is correct) to keep our bees warm and comfortable whenpracticable, as a means of saving honey?

To winter bees in the best manner, considerable care is required. Whenever you are disposed to neglect them, you should bear in mind thatone early swarm is worth two late ones; their condition in spring willoften decide this point. Like a team of cattle or horses when wellwintered, they are ready for a good season's work, but when poorlywintered have to recruit a long time before they are worth much. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

SAGACITY OF BEES. 

ARE NOT BEES DIRECTED ALONE BY INSTINCT?

On this subject I have but little to say, as I have failed to discoveranything uncommonly remarkable, separate and distinct in one swarm, that another would not exhibit. I have found one swarm guided alone byinstinct, doing just what another would under the same circumstances. 

Writers, not contented with the astonishing results of instinct, withtheir love of the marvellous, must add a good share of reason to theirother faculties, --"an adaptation of means to ends, that reason alonecould produce. " It is very true, without close inspection, andcomparing the results of different swarms in similar cases, one mightarrive at such conclusion. It is difficult, as all will admit, "to tellwhere instinct ends, and reason begins. " Instances of sagacity, likethe following, have been mentioned. "When the weather is warm, and theheat inside is somewhat oppressive, a number of bees may be seenstationed around the entrance, vibrating their wings. Those inside willturn their heads towards the passage, while those outside will turntheirs the other way. A constant agitation of air is thus created, thereby ventilating the hive more effectually. " _All full stocks dothis in hot weather. _

WHAT THEY DO WITH PROPOLIS. 

"A snail had entered the hive and fixed itself against the glass side. The bees, unable to penetrate it with their stings, the cunningeconomists fixed it immovably, by cementing merely the edge of theorifice of the shell to the glass with resin, (propolis), and thus itbecame a prisoner for life. " Now the instinct that prompts thegathering of propolis in August, and filling every crack, flaw, orinequality about the hive, would cement the edges of the snail-shell tothe glass, and a small stone, block of wood, chip, or any substancethat they are unable to remove, would be fastened with it in the samemanner. The edges or bottom of the hive, when in close proximity to thebottom, is joined to it with this substance. Whatever the obstacle maybe, it is pretty sure to receive a coating of this. The stoppers forthe holes at the top are held in their places on the same principle;and the unaccountable sagacity that once fastened a little door, mightpossibly be nothing more than the same instinct. 

Another principle, I think, will be found to be universal with them, instead of sagacious reasoning. 

Whenever the combs in a hive have been broken, or when combs have beenadded, as was mentioned in the chapter on fall management, the firstduty of the bees appears to be to fasten them as they are; when theedges are near the side of the hive, or two combs in contact, a portionof wax is detached and used for joining them together, or to the side. 

MENDING BROKEN COMBS. 

Where two combs do not touch, and yet are close together, a small baris constructed from one to the other, preventing any nearer approach. (This may be illustrated by turning the hive a few inches from theperpendicular after being filled with combs in warm weather. )

MAKING PASSAGES TO EVERY PART OF THEIR COMBS. 

Should nearly all the combs in the hive become detached from any cause, and lie on the bottom in one "grand smash of ruin, " their first stepsare, as just described, pillars from one to the other to keep them asthey are. In a few days, in warm weather, they will have made passagesby biting away combs where they are in contact, throughout every partof the mass; little columns of wax below, supporting the combsabove, --irregular, to be sure, but as well as circumstances admit. Nota single piece can be removed without breaking it from the others, andthe whole will be firmly cemented together. A piece of comb filled withhoney, and sealed up, may be put in a glass box with the ends of thesecells so sealed, touching the glass. The principle of allowing no partof their tenement to be in a situation inaccessible, is soonmanifested. They immediately bite off the ends of the cells, remove thehoney that is in the way, and make a passage next to the glass, leavinga few bars from it to the comb, to steady and keep it in its position. A single sheet of comb lying flat on the bottom-board of a populousswarm is cut away under side, for a passage in every direction, numerous little pillars of wax being left for its support. How anyperson in the habit of watching their proceedings, with any degree ofattention, could come at the conclusion that the bees raised such combby mechanical means and then put under the props for its support, issomewhat singular. Their efforts united for such a purpose likereasonable beings, I never witnessed. 

These things, considered as the effect of instinct, are none the lesswonderful on that account. I am not sure but the display of wisdom iseven greater than if the power of planning their own operations hadbeen given them. 

I have mentioned these, to show that a course of action called forth bythe peculiar situation of one family, would be copied by another in asimilar emergency, without being aware of its ever being done before. Were I engaged in a work of fiction, I might let fancy reign andendeavor to amuse, but this is not the object. Let us endeavor then tobe content with truth, and not murmur with its reality. When we take asurvey of the astonishing regularity with which they construct theircombs without a teacher, and remember that the waxen material is formedin the rings of their body, that for the first time in life, without anexperienced leader's direction, they apply a claw to detach it, thatthey go forth to the fields and gather stores unbidden by a tyrant'smandate, and throughout the whole cycle of their operations, one lawand power governs. Whoever would seek mind as the directing power, mustlook beyond the sensorium of the bee for the source of all we behold inthem!

CHAPTER XXIV. 

STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. 

When about to remove the contents of a hive, I have never found itnecessary to use all the precautions often recommended to prevent theaccess of bees. I have seen it stated that a room in which there was achimney open, would be unsuitable, as the bees would scent the honey, and thus find their way down into the room. I never was thus troubledby their perpendicular travelling. It is true, if the day was warm, anda door or window was standing open, the bees would find their way induring a scarcity of honey. But with doors and windows closed nodifficulty need be apprehended. 

METHODS OF REMOVING COMBS FROM THE HIVE. 

The most convenient way to remove combs from the hive is to take offone of its sides, but this is apt to split the boards, if it wasproperly nailed, and injure it for subsequent use. With tools such ashave been described, it may be done very nicely, and leave the hivewhole. The chisel should have the bevel all on one side, like thoseused by carpenters. When you commence, turn the flat side next theboard of the hive, and the bevel crowded by the combs will follow itclose the whole length; with the other tool they are cut across thetop, and readily lifted out. If preferred, they may be cut across nearthe centre and take out half a sheet at a time; this is sometimesnecessary on account of the cross-sticks. 

DIFFERENT METHODS OF STRAINING HONEY. 

Such combs as are taken from the middle or vicinity of brood-cells, aregenerally unfit for the table; such should be strained. There areseveral methods of doing it. One is, to mash the comb and put it in abag, and hang it over some vessel to catch the honey as it drains out. This will do very well for small quantities in warm weather, or in thefall before there is any of it candied. Another method is to put suchcombs into a colander, and set this over a pan, and introduce it intoan oven after the bread is out. This melts the combs. The honey and aportion of the wax run out together. The wax rises to the top and coolsin a cake. It is somewhat liable to burn, and requires some care. Manyprefer this method, as there is less taste of bee-bread, no cellscontaining it being disturbed, but all the honey is not certain todrain out without stirring it. If disposed, two qualities may be made, by keeping the first separate. Another method is merely to break thecombs finely, and put them into a colander, and allow the honey todrain out without much heat, and afterwards skim off the smallparticles that rise to the top, or when very particular, pass the honeythrough a cloth, or piece of lace. But for large quantities, a moreexpeditious mode is to have a can and strainer, made for the purpose, where fifty pounds or more can be worked out at once. The can is madeof tin, twelve or fourteen inches deep, by about ten or twelvediameter, with handles on each side at the top, for lifting it. Thestrainer is just enough smaller to go down inside the can; the heightmay be considerably less, providing there are handles on each side topass out at the top; the bottom is perforated with holes like acolander, combs are put into this, and the whole set into a kettle ofboiling water, and heated without any risk of burning, until all thewax is melted, (which may be ascertained by stirring it, ) when it maybe taken out. All the wax, bee-bread, &c. , will rise in a few minutes. The strainer can now be raised out of the top and set on a frame forthe purpose, or by merely tipping it slightly on one side it will reston the top of the can. It might be left to cool before raising thestrainer, were it not liable to stick to the sides of the can; thehoney would be full as pure, and separate nearly as clean from the waxand bee-bread, &c. When raised out before cooling, the contents shouldbe repeatedly stirred, or considerable honey will remain. Two qualitiesmay be made by keeping the first that runs through separate from thelast, (as stirring it works out the bee-bread). Even a third qualitymaybe obtained by adding a little water, and repeating the process. This is worth but little. By boiling out the water, without burning, and removing the scum, it will do to feed bees. By adding water untilit will just bear a potato, boiling and skimming, and letting itferment, it will make metheglin, or by letting the fermentation proceedit will make vinegar. Honey that has been heated thoroughly, will notcandy as readily as when strained without heat. A little water may beadded to prevent its getting too hard; but should it get so in coldweather, it can at any time be warmed, and water added until it is ofthe right consistence. 

GETTING OUT WAX--DIFFERENT METHODS. 

Several methods have been adopted for separating the wax. I never foundany means of getting out the _whole_. Yet I suppose I came as near itas any one. Some recommend heating it in an oven, similar to the methodof straining honey through the colander, but I have found it to wastemore than when melted with water. A better way for small quantities, isto half fill a coarse stout bag with refuse comb and a fewcobble-stones to sink it, and boil it in a kettle of water, pressingand turning it frequently till the wax ceases to rise. When thecontents of the bag are emptied, by squeezing a handful, the particlesof wax may be seen, and you may thereby judge of the quantity thrownaway. For large quantities the foregoing process is rather tedious. Itcan be facilitated by having two levers four or five feet long andabout four inches wide, and fastened at the lower end by a stronghinge. The combs are put into a kettle of boiling water, and will meltalmost immediately; it is then put into the bag, and taken between thelevers in a wash-tub or other large vessel and pressed, the contents ofthe bag shaken, and turned, several times during the process, and ifneed be returned to the boiling water and squeezed again. The wax, witha little water, is now to be remelted and strained again through finercloth, into vessels that will mould it into the desired shape. As thesediment settles to the bottom of the wax when melted, a portion may bedipped off nearly pure without straining. 

Wax in cool weather may be whitened in a short time in the sun, but itmust be in very thin flakes; it is readily obtained in this shape byhaving a very thin board or shingle, which should be first thoroughlywet, and then dipped into pure melted wax; enough will adhere to makeit the desired thickness, and will cool instantly on being withdrawn. Draw a knife along the edges, and it will readily cleave off. Exposedto the sun in a window or on the snow, it will become perfectly white, when it can be made into cakes for market, where it commands a muchhigher price than the yellow. It is said there is a chemical processthat whitens it readily, but I am not acquainted with it. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 

If the reader has no bees, and yet has had interest or patience tofollow me thus far, it is presumptive evidence that he would possessthe requisite perseverance to take charge of them. It would be well, however, to remember the anxieties, perplexities, and time necessary totake the proper care, as well as the advantages and profit. 

But if you are disposed to try the experiment, very likely somedirections for a commencement would be acceptable. 

WHY THE WORD LUCK IS APPLIED TO BEES. 

There has been so much uncertainty in stock of this kind, that the word_luck_ has been made to express too much. Some have been successful, while others have failed entirely; this has suggested the idea that_luck_ depended on the manner that the stocks were obtained; and hereagain there seems to be a variety of opinions, as is the case always, when a thing is guessed at. One will assert that the "fickle dame" ischarmed into favor by stealing a stock or two to begin with, andreturning them after a start. Another, (a little more conscientious, perhaps) that you must take them without _liberty_, to be sure, butleave an equivalent in money on the stand. Another, that the only wayto get up an effectual charm, is to exchange sheep for them; and stillanother says, that _bees must always be a gift_. I have had all thesemethods offered me gratis, with gravity, suitable to make animpression. And, finally, there has yet another method been found out, and that is, when you want a few stocks of bees go and buy them, yes, and pay for them too, in dollars and cents, or take them for a share ofthe increase for a time, if it suits your pecuniary resources best. Andyou need not depend on any _charm_ or mystic power for your success--ifyou do, I cannot avoid the unfavorable prediction of a failure. It istrue that a few have accidentally prospered for a few years; I sayaccidentally, because when they have no true principles of management, it must be the result of accident. It is a saying with some, that "oneman can't have luck but few years at once, " and others none at all, although he tries the whole routine of charms. Nearly twenty years ago, when my respected neighbor predicted a "turn in my luck, because it wasalways so, " I could not understand the force of this reasoning, unlessit belonged to the nature of bees to deteriorate, and consequently runout. I at once determined to ascertain this point. I could understandhow a farmer would often fail to raise a crop, if he depended on chanceor luck for success, instead of fixed natural principles. It waspossible that bees might be similar. I found that in good seasons themajority of people had luck, but in poor seasons, the reverse, and whentwo or three occurred in succession, then was the time to lose theirluck. It was evident, then, if I could pass in safety the poor seasonsby any means, I should do well enough in good ones. [21] The result hasgiven me but little reason to complain. My advice therefore is, thatreliance should be placed on proper management, instead of luck, arising from the manner the first stock was obtained. Should any onefeel disposed to make you a present of a stock or two of bees, I wouldadvise you to accept the offer and be thankful, discarding allapprehension of a failure on that account. Or if any one is willing youshould take some on shares, this is a cheap way to get a start, and youhave no risk of loss in the old stock. Yet if bees prosper, theinterest on the money that stocks cost is a mere trifle in comparisonto the value of increase, and you have the same trouble. On the otherhand, the owner of bees can afford to take care of a few hives more, for half the profits, which he has to give if another takes them; thisis apt to be the case, especially, with such as have no faith in charms. 

 [21] There are sections of country where the difference in seasons is less than in this. 

RULE IN TAKING BEES FOR A SHARE. 

The rule generally adopted for taking bees is this. One or more stocksare taken for a term of years, the person taking them finding hives, boxes, and bestowing whatsoever care is necessary, and returning theold stocks to the owner with half the increase and profits. 

A MAN MAY SELL HIS "LUCK. "

There are yet a few persons who refuse to sell a stock of bees, becauseit is "bad luck. " There is often some grounds for this notion. It mightarise under the following circumstances. Suppose a person has a halfdozen hives, three extra good, the others of the opposite extreme. Hesells for the sake of the better price his three best; there is butlittle doubt but his best "luck" would go too! But should his poorestbe taken, the result would be different, without doubt. 

But there are cases where an apiarian has more stocks than he wishes tokeep. (It has been the case with myself frequently. ) Persons wishing tosell, are the proper ones of which to buy. Purchasers seldom want anybut first-rate stocks, they are generally cheapest in the end. There isusually a difference of about a dollar in the spring and fall prices, and five and six dollars are common charges. I have known them sell atauction at eight, but in some sections they are less. 

FIRST-RATE STOCKS RECOMMENDED TO BEGIN WITH. 

For a beginning then, I would recommend purchasing none but first-ratestocks; it will make but little difference in the risk, whether youobtain them in the spring, or fall, if you have read my remarks onwinter management with attention; I have already said the requisitesfor a good stock for winter, were a numerous family and plenty ofhoney, and that the cluster of bees should extend through nearly allthe combs, &c. To avoid as far as possible diseased brood, find anapiary where it has never made its appearance, to make purchases. Thereare some who have lost bees by it, and yet are totally ignorant of thecause. It would be well, therefore, to inquire if any stocks have beenlost, and then for the cause--be careful that secondary are notmistaken for primary causes. 

OLD STOCKS ARE GOOD AS ANY, IF HEALTHY. 

When it appears that all are exempt, (by a thorough examination, if notsatisfied without, ) you need not object to stocks two or three yearsold; they are just as good as any, sometimes better, (providing theyhave swarmed the season previous, according to one author; because suchalways have young queens, which are more prolific than old ones, thatwill be in all first swarms). 

Old stocks are as prosperous as any, as long as they are healthy, yetthey are more liable to become diseased. 

CAUTION RESPECTING DISEASED BROOD. 

When no apiary from which to purchase can be found, but where thedisease _has made_ its appearance, and you are necessitated to purchasefrom such, or not at all, you cannot be too cautious about it. It wouldbe safest in this case to take none but young swarms, as it is not socommon for them to be affected the first season, yet they are notalways exempt. But here, again, you may not be allowed to take allyoung stocks; in which case let the weather be pretty cold, the beeswill be further up among the combs, and give a chance to inspect thecombs. At this season, say not earlier than November, all the healthybrood will be hatched. Sometimes, a few young bees may be left thathave their mature shape, and probably had been chilled by sudden coldweather--these are not the result of disease, the bees will remove themthe next season, and no bad results follow. In warm weather asatisfactory inspection can be had no other way, but by the use oftobacco smoke. Be particular to reject all that are affected with thedisease in the least; better do without, than take such to begin with. (A full description has been given of this disease in another place. )

RESULT OF IGNORANCE IN PURCHASING. 

A neighbor purchased thirteen stock-hives; six were old ones, theothers swarms of the last season. As the old hives were heavy, he ofcourse thought them good; either he knew nothing of the disease, ortook no trouble to examine; five of the six old ones were badlyaffected. Four were lost outright, except the honey; the fifth lastedthrough the winter, and then had to be transferred. He had flatteredhimself that they were obtained very cheaply, but when he made out whathis good ones cost, he found no great reason, in this respect, forcongratulation. 

SIZES OF HIVES IMPORTANT. 

Another point is worthy of consideration: endeavor to get hives as nearthe right size as possible, _viz. _, 2, 000 cubic inches; better toolarge than too small. If too large, they may be cut off, leaving themthe proper size. But yet, it often makes an ungainly shape, being toolarge square for the height. As the shape probably makes no differencein the prosperity of the bees, the appearance is the principalobjection, after being cut off. 

An acquaintance had purchased a lot of bees in very large hives, andcalled on me to know what to do with them, as he feared such would notswarm well in consequence; I told him it would be doubtful, unless hecut them off to the right size. 

"Cut 'em off! how can that be done? there is bees in 'em. "

"So I expected, but it can be done nearly as well as if empty. "

"But don't you get stung dreadfully?"

"Not often: if it is to be done in warm weather, I smoke them wellbefore I begin; _in very cold weather_ is the best time, then it isunnecessary; simply turn the hive bottom up, mark off the proper size, and with a sharp saw take it off without trouble. "

"Some are filled with combs; you don't cut off such, do you?"

"Certainly; I consider all the room for combs in a hive over 2, 000inches as worse than lost. "

"What will you ask to cut mine off? If I could see it done once, Imight do it next time. "

"The charge will be light; but if you intend to keep bees, you shouldlearn to do everything pertaining to them, and not be dependent on anyone; I did it before I ever saw or heard of its being done. " I thengave him full directions how to manage, but could not persuade him toundertake. 

HOW LARGE HIVES CAN BE MADE SMALLER. 

A short time after, I attended, on a cold day, with a sharp saw, square, &c. I found his hives fourteen inches square inside, andeighteen deep, holding about 3, 500 inches. Of this square, a littlemore than ten inches in height, would make just the right size. To workconvenient, I inverted the hive on a barrel, set on end, marked thelength, and sawed it off, without a bee leaving. It was very cold, (mercury at 6 deg. ) The bees came to the edges of the combs, but thecold drove them back. In a short time I had taken off six; four whendone were just about full; the other two were so when I began, but theywere marked and sawed like the rest; when the combs were attached, theywere severed with a knife, and the piece of the hive thus loose, wasraised off, leaving several inches of the combs projecting out of thehive. I now cut off the first comb, even with the bottom of the hive. On the next comb there were a few bees; with a quill these were brusheddown into the hive; this piece was then removed, and the bees on theother side of it were brushed down also. In this way all others wereremoved, and left the hive just full. The other full hive, after it wassawed on each side, a small wire was drawn through, parallel with thesheets, and severed all the combs at once; each piece was taken out, and the bees that were clustered on them brushed back; removing theloose part of the hive, was the last thing to be done. This last methodwas preferred to the other by my employer; yet it was all performed tohis satisfaction, no sting or other difficulty about it, except thetrouble of warming fingers rather frequently. Tobacco smoke would havekept them quiet during the operation, nearly as well. If preferred, ahive may stand right side up while sawing it. 

MODERATE WEATHER BEST TO REMOVE BEES. 

In transporting your bees, avoid if possible the two extremes of verycold, or very warm weather. In the latter the combs are so nearlymelted, that the weight of the honey will bend them, bursting thecells, spilling the honey, and besmearing the bees. In very coldweather, the combs are brittle, and easily detached from the sides ofthe hive. When necessitated to move them in very cold weather, theyshould be put up an hour or so before starting. The agitation of thebees after being disturbed will create considerable heat; a portion ofthis will be imparted to the combs, and add to their strength. 

PREPARATIONS FOR TRANSPORTING BEES. 

To prepare for moving them, pieces of thin muslin about half a yardsquare is as good as anything, secured by carpet tacks. 

SECURING BEES IN THE HIVE. 

The hive is inverted, and the cloth put over, neatly folded, andfastened with a tack at the corners, and another in the middle. Thetack is crowed in about two-thirds of its length, it then presents thehead convenient to pull out. If the bees are to go a great distance, and require to be shut up several days, the muslin will be hardlysufficient, as they would probably bite their way out. Something moresubstantial would then be required. Take a board the size of thebottom, cut out a place in the middle, and cover with wire cloth, (likethe one recommended for hiving, ) and fasten it with tacks. This boardis to be nailed on the hive. After the nails are driven, with thehammer start it off about the eighth of an inch; it will admit a littleair around the sides as well as the middle, quite necessary for heavystocks. But very small families might be safe without the wire cloth;air enough would pass between the hive and board, except in warmweather. New combs break easier than old. 

BEST CONVEYANCE. 

Probably the best conveyance is a wagon with elliptic springs. But awagon without springs is bad, especially for young stocks. Yet I haveknown them moved safely in this way, but it required some care inpacking with hay, or straw, under and around them, and careful driving. Good sleighing will answer very well, and by some thought to be thebest time. 

HIVE TO BE INVERTED. 

Whatever conveyance is employed, the hive should be inverted. The combswill then all rest closely on the top, and are less liable to breakthan when right end up, because then the whole weight of the combs mustdepend upon the fastenings at the top and sides for support, and areeasily detached and fall. When moving bees, so reversed, they willcreep upward; in stocks part full, they will often nearly all leave thecombs, and get upon the covering. In a short time after being set up, they will return, except in very cold weather, when a few willsometimes freeze; consequently a warm room is required to put them infor a short time. 

After carrying them a few miles, the disposition to sting is generallygone, yet there are a few exceptions. In moderate weather, when beesare confined, they manifest a persevering determination to find theirway out, particularly after being moved, and somewhat disturbed. I haveknown them to bite holes through muslin in three days. The samedifficulty is often attendant on attempting to confine them to the hiveby muslin when in the house in the winter, except when kept in a coldsituation. Should any combs become broken, or detached from theirfastenings, in hives not full, by moving or other accident, renderingthem liable to fall when set up, the hive may remain inverted on thestand till warm weather, if necessary, and the bees have again fastenedthem, which they do soon after commencing work in the spring. If theyare so badly broken that they bend over, rolls of paper may be putbetween them to preserve the proper distance till secured. When theycommence making new combs, or before, it is time to turn the right endup. While the hive is inverted, it is essential that a hole is in theside, through which the bees may work. A board should fit close overthe bottom, and covered, to effectually prevent any water from gettingamong the bees, &c. 

CONCLUSION. 

In conclusion I would say, that the apiarian who has followed meattentively, and has added nothing of value to his stock ofinformation, possesses an enviable experience that all should strive toobtain. 

It has been said that "three out of five who commence an apiary mustfail;" but let us suppose it is through ignorance or inattention, andnot inherent with the bees. To the beginner then I would say, --if youexpect to succeed in obtaining one of the most delectable of sweets foryour own consumption, or the profit in dollars and cents, you will findsomething more requisite than merely holding the dish to obtain theporridge. "SEE YOUR BEES OFTEN, " and know at all times their actualcondition. This one recipe is worth more than all others that can begiven; it is at the head of the class of duties; _all others beginhere_. Even the grand secret of successfully combating the worms, --KEEPYOUR BEES STRONG, must take its rise at this point. With the abovemotto acted upon, carried out fully, and with perseverance, you cannotwell fail to realize all reasonable expectations. Avoid over-anxietyfor a rapid increase in stocks; try and be satisfied with one goodswarm from a stock annually, your chances are better than with more; donot anticipate the golden harvest too soon. You will probably benecessitated to discard some of the _extravagant_ reports of profitsfrom the apiary. Yet you will find one stock trebling, perhapsquadrupling its price or value in products, while the one beside itdoes nothing. In some seasons particularly favorable your stockscollectively will yield a return of one or two hundred per cent. --inothers, hardly make a return for trouble. The proper estimate can bemade only after a number of years, when, if they have been judiciouslymanaged, and your ideas have not been too extravagant, you will befully satisfied. I have known a single stock in one season to producemore than twenty dollars in swarms and honey, and ninety stocks toproduce over nine hundred dollars, when a few of the number added not afarthing to the amount. I do not wish to hold out inducements for anyone to commence bee-keeping, and end it in disgust and disappointment. But I would encourage all suitable persons to try their skill in beemanagement. I say suitable persons, because there are many, very many, not qualified for the charge. The careless, inattentive man, who leaveshis bees unnoticed from October till May, will be likely to complain ofill success. 

Whoever cannot find time to give his bees the needed care, but canspend an hour each day obtaining gossip at the neighborhood tavern, isunfit for this business. But he who has a home, and finds hisaffections beginning to be divided between that and his companions ofthe bar-room, and wishes to withdraw his interest from unprofitableassociates, and yet has nothing of sufficient power to break the bond, to what can he apply with a better prospect of success, than to engagein keeping bees? They make ample returns for each little care. Pecuniary advantages are not all that may be gained--a great manypoints concerning their natural history are yet in the dark, and manyare disputed. Would it not be a source of satisfaction to be able tocontribute a few more facts to this interesting subject, adding to thescience, and holding a share in the general fund? Supposing all themysteries pertaining to their economy discovered and elucidated, precluding all chance of further additions, would the study be dry andmonotonous? On the contrary, the verification witnessed by ourselveswould be so fascinating and instructive, that we cannot avoid pityingthe condition of that man who finds gratification only in the gross andsensual. It has been remarked, that "he who cannot find in this andother branches of natural history a salutary exercise for his mentalfaculties, inducing a habit of observation and reflection, a pleasureso easily obtained, unalloyed by any debasing mixture--tending toexpand and harmonize his mind, and elevate it to conceptions of themajestic, sublime, serene, and beautiful arrangements instituted by theGod of nature, must possess an organization sadly deficient, or besurrounded by circumstances indeed lamentable. " I would recommend thestudy of the honey-bee as one best calculated to awaken the interest ofthe indifferent. What can arrest the attention like theirstructure--their diligence in collecting stores for the future--theirsecretion of wax and moulding it into structures with a mathematicalprecision astonishing the profoundest philosophers--their maternal andfraternal affection in regarding the mother's every want, and assiduouscare in nursing her offspring to maturity--their unaccountable displayof instinct in emergencies or accidents, filling the beholder withwonder and amazement? The mind thus contemplating such astonishingoperations, cannot well avoid looking beyond these results to theirdivine Author. Therefore let every mind that perceives one ray of lightfrom nature's mysterious transactions, and is capable of receiving theleast enjoyment therefrom, pursue the path still inviting onward in thepursuit. Every new acquisition will bring an additional satisfaction, and assist in the next attempt, which will be commenced with a renewedand constantly increasing zest; and will arise from the contemplation awiser, better, and a nobler being, far superior to those who have neversoared beyond the gratifications of the mere animal, grovelling in thedark. Is there, in the whole circle of nature's exhaustless storehouse, any one science more inviting than this? What more exalting andrefining, and at the same time making a return in profits as apecuniary reward?

What would be the result in the aggregate of all the honey produced inthe flowers of the United States annually? Suppose we estimate theproductions of one acre to be one pound of honey, which is but a smallpart of the real product in most places; yet, as a great many acres arecovered with water and forest, [22] this estimate is probably enough forthe average. This State (New York) contains 47, 000 square miles; 640acres in a square mile will multiply into a little more than30, 000, 000, and each acre producing its pound of honey, we have thegrand result of 30, 000, 000 lbs. Of honey. If we add the States ofPennsylvania, Ohio and Michigan, we have an amount of over 126, 000, 000lbs. What it might be by including all the States, those disposed mayascertain. Enough for our purpose is made clear, and that is, a smallitem only of an enormous amount is now secured. 

 [22] It should not be forgotten that forest trees are valuable, especially when there is basswood, or even maple. 

 * * * * *

BOOKS PUBLISHED BYJ. M. SAXTON, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER, 152 FULTON STREET, NEW YORK, Suitable for

School, Town, Agricultural and Private Libraries. 

 * * *

FOR SALE BY

A. S. BARNES & CO. , Corner of Dutch and John-streets, NEW YORK. 

 * * *

The American Farm Book; The American Farm Book; or, a Compend of American Agriculture, being a Practical Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roots, Fruits, Cotton, Tobacco, Sugar-Cane, Rice, and every staple product of the United States; with the best methods of Planting, Cultivating, and Preparation for Market. Illustrated by more than 100 engravings. By R. L. Allen. 

American Poultry Yard; The American Poultry Yard; comprising the Origin, History and Description of the different Breeds of Domestic Poultry, with complete directions for their Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Fattening, and Preparation for Market; including specific directions for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of the Principal Diseases to which they are subject; drawn from authentic sources and personal observation. Illustrated with numerous engravings. By D. J. Browne. 

The Diseases of Domestic Animals; Being a History and Description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, Poultry, and Farm Dogs, with Directions for their Management, Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and Preparation for a profitable Market; also, their Diseases and Remedies; together with full Directions for the Management of the Dairy, and the Comparative Economy and Advantages of Working Animals, the Horse, Mule, Oxen, &c. By R. L. Allen. 

American Bee Keeper's Manual; Being a Practical Treatise on the History and Domestic Economy of the Honey Bee, embracing a full illustration of the whole subject, with the most approved methods of Managing this Insect, through every branch of its Culture, the result of many years' experience. Illustrated with many engravings. By T. B. Miner. 

The Modern Stair Builder's Guide; Being a Plain, Practical System of Hand Railing, embracing all its necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by Twenty-two Steel Engravings; together with the Use of the most important Principles of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. 

Prize Essay on Manures. An Essay on Manures, submitted to the Trustees of the Massachusetts Society for Promoting Agriculture, for their Premium. By Samuel L. Dana. 

American Bird Fancier. Considered with reference to the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management, &c, of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with engravings. By D. J. Browne. Cloth, 50 cts. ; mail edition, paper, 25 cts. 

American Architect. The American Architect; comprising Original Designs of cheap Country and Village Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans, and Directions, and an estimate of the Cost of each Design By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second Series quarto, bound in 2 vols. , sheep. $6. Mail edition, paper, $5. 

Domestic Medicine. Gunn's Domestic Medicine; or, Poor Man's Friend in the Hours of Affliction, Pain, and Sickness. Raymond's new revised edition, improved and enlarged by John C. Gunn 8vo. Sheep. $3. 

Saxton's American Farmer's Almanac for 1852. Per 100, $3. 

Family Kitchen Gardener. Containing Plain and Accurate descriptions of all the Different Species and Varieties of Culinary Vegetables; with their Botanical, English, French, and German names, alphabetically arranged, and the best mode of cultivating them in the garden, or under glass; also, Descriptions and Character of the most Select Fruits, their Management Propagation, &c. By Robert Buist, author of the American Flower Garden Directory, &c. , cloth or sheep, 75 cts. ; mail edition, paper, 50 cts. 

Practical Agriculture. Being a Treatise on the General Relations which Science bears to Agriculture Delivered before the New York State Agricultural Society, by James F. W. Johnston, F. R. S. S. S. And K. , Professor of Agricultural Chemistry in Durham University, and author of Lectures on Agricultural Chemistry, with Notes and Explanations by an American Farmer. Cloth, 75 cts. ; mail edition, paper, 50 cts. 

Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology. By J. F. W. Johnston, M. A. , F. R. S. 50 cts. 

Youatt and Martin on Cattle: Being a Treatise on their Breeds, Management, and Diseases: comprising a full History of the Various Races; their Origin, Breeding, and Merits; their capacity for Beef and Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. L. Martin. The whole forming a complete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 illustrations. Edited by Ambrose Stevens. $1 25. 

Youatt on the Horse. Youatt on the Structure and Diseases of the Horse, with their Remedies. Also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Breakers, Smiths, &c. Edited by W. C. Spooner, M. R. C. V. S. With an account of the Breeds in the United States, by Henry S. Randall. $1 25. 

Youatt on Sheep: Their Breed, Management, and Diseases, with illustrative engravings; to which are added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in the United States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia. By Wm. Youatt. 75 cts. 

Hoare on the Grape Vine. A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation Of the Grape Vine on open Walls, with a Descriptive Account of an improved method of Planting and Managing the Roots of Grape Vines. By Clement Hoare. With an Appendix on the Cultivation of the same in the United States. 50 cts. 

The American Agriculturist: Being a Collection of Original Articles on the Various Subjects connected with the Farm, in ten vols. 8vo. , containing nearly four thousand pages. $10. 

Johnston's Agricultural Chemistry. Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geology to Agriculture. New edition with an Appendix. $1 25. 

Stephens' Book of the Farm. A Complete Guide to the Farmer, Steward, Plowman, Cattleman, Shepherd, Field-Worker, and Dairy Maid. By Henry Stephens. With Four Hundred and Fifty Illustrations; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, &c. , by J. S. Skinner. Really one of the best books for a Farmer to possess. Cloth, $4; leather, $4 50. 

The Complete Farmer and American Gardener, Rural Economist, and New American Gardener, containing a Compendious Epitome of the most Important Branches of Agricultural and Rural Economy; with Practical Directions on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables; including Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By Thomas G. Fessenden 2 vols. In one. $1 25. 

Allen's Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape $1 25. 

Brandy and Salt, A Remedy for various Internal as well as External Diseases, Inflammation and Local Injuries. By Rev. Samuel Fenton. 12-1/2 cts. 

Southern Agriculture. Comprising Essays on the Cultivation of Corn, Hemp, Tobacco, Wheat, &c. $1. 

The Cottage and Farm Bee Keeper: A Practical Work, by a Country Curate. 50 cts. 

A Book for Every Boy in the Country. Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French, and adapted to General Use, by F. G. Skinner. 25 cts. 

Rural Architecture; Comprising Farm Houses, Cottages, Carriage Houses, Sheep and Dove Cotes, Pigeries, Barns, &c. &c. By Lewis F. Allen. $1 25. 

The American Muck Book. The American Muck Book; treating of the Nature, Properties, Sources, History, and Operations of all the principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common Use, with Specific Directions for their Preservation, and Application to the Soil and to Crops; drawn from Authentic Sources. Actual Experience, and Personal Observation, as Combined with the leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture. By J. D. Browne. $1 25

Youatt on the Pig. A Treatise on the Breeds, Management, and Medical Treatment of Swine; with direction for Salting Pork, Curing Bacon and Hams. By Wm. Youatt, R. S. Illustrated with engravings drawn from life. 60 cts. 

Youatt on the Dog. By Wm. Youatt, Splendidly illustrated. Edited, with Additions, by E. J. Lewis, M. D. $1 50. 

The Poultry Book. By John C. Bennett, M. D. 84 cts. 

The American Poulterer's Companion, With illustrations. By C. N. Bement. $1. 

American Poultry Book. By Micajah Cock. 38 cts. 

The Rose Culturist. A Practical Treatise on its Cultivation and Management. 50 cts. 

A Practical Treatise on Honey Bees, Their Management, &c. By Edward Townley. 50 cts. 

The American Fruit Book. By S. W. Cole. 50 cts. 

The American Veterinarian. By S. W. Cole. 50 cts. 

The Gardener's Text Book. By Peter Adam Schenck. 50 cts. 

The American Gardener. By William Cobbett. 50 cts. 

The Farmer's Land Measurer. By James Pedder. 50 cts. 

New England Fruit Book. By John M. Ives. 56 cts. 

Practical Treatise on Fruits, Adapted to New England Culture. By George Jaques 50 cts. 

Farmer and Emigrant's Hand Book. A Guide to Clearing the Forest and Prairie Land, &c, &c. By Josiah T. Marshall. $1. 

Farmer's Barn Book. By Youatt, Clater, Skinner and Mills. $1 25. 

Hind's Farriery and Stud Book. Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1. 

Mason's Farrier and Stud Book. Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1 25. 

Stewart's Stable Economy. A Treatise on the Management of Horses. Edited by A. B. Allen. $1. 

Sugar Planter's Manual. By W. S. Evans, M. D. $1 25. 

Treatise on Hothouses and Ventilation. By R. B. Suckara. $1 25. 

Ornamental and Domestic Poultry. By Rev. Edmund Saul Dixon, A. M. With Large Additions by J. J. Kerr, M. D. With illustrations $1. 

Canfield on Sheep, Their Breeds Management, Structure, and Diseases. With Illustrative Engravings and an Appendix Edited by H. J. Canfield. $1. 

Book of Flowers, In which are described the various Hardy Herbaceous Perennials, Annuals, Shrubby Plants and Evergreen Trees desirable for Ornamental Purposes. By Jos. Breck. 75 cts. 

Experimental Researches on the Food of Animals, The Fattening of Cattle, and Remarks on the Food of Man. By Robert Dundas Thompson, M. D. 75 cts. 

The American Flower Garden Companion, Revised and enlarged. By Edward Sayres. 75 cts. 

The Farmer's Treasure. A Treatise on the Nature and Value of Manures, and Productive Farming. By F. Faulkner and Joseph A. Smith. 75 cts. 

The Practical Farrier. By Richard Mason. 75 cts. 

The American Farrier. By Barnum. 75 cts. 

Principles of Practical Gardening. By Geo. W. Johnston, Esq. $1 25. 

Buchannan on the Grape. 50 cents. 

Spooner on the Grape. The Cultivation of American Grape Vines, and making of Wine. By Alden Spooner. 38 cts. 

The Young Gardener's Assistant. By Thomas Bridgeman. $1 50. 

The Florist's Guide. By Thos. Bridgeman. 50 cts. 

The Kitchen Gardener's Instructor. By Bridgeman. 50 cts. 

The Fruit Cultivator's Manual. By Bridgeman. 50 cts. 

The Horse, Its Habits, Diseases and Management, in the Stable and on the Road, &c. 25 cts. 

The Fruit, Flower, and Kitchen Garden. By Patrick Neill, LL. D. , F. R. S. , adapted to the United States. $1 25. 

Ladies' Companion to the Flower Garden. By Mrs. Loudon. Edited by A. J. Downing. $1 25. 

The Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. By A. J. Downing. $ 1 50. Do. Do. Do. Do. Colored. 15 00. 

Dictionary of Modern Gardening. By Geo. W. Johnston. Edited by David Landreth. $1 50. 

The Rose Fancier's Manual. By Mrs. Gore. $1 50. 

Parsons on the Rose. The Rose: its History, Poetry, Culture, and Classification. By S. B. Parsons. $1 50. 

Hovey's Fruits of America. Containing richly colored Figures and full Descriptions of all the Choicest Varieties cultivated in the United States, in 12 numbers. $12. 

History, Treatment and Diseases of the Horse, With a Treatise on Draught, and Copious Index. $2. 

Rural Economy, n its Relations with Chemistry, Physics, and Meteorology. By J. B. Boussingault. Translated, &c, by George Law. $1. 

Liebig's Agricultural Chemistry. Edited by Lyon Playfair, Ph. D, F. G. S. , and William Gregory, M. D. , P. R. S. E. $1. 

The Modern System of Farriery, As Practised at the Present Time at the Royal Veterinary College, and from Twenty Years' Practice of the Author, George Skevington, M. R. V. C. $5. 

Ewbank's Hydraulics: A Descriptive and Historical Account of Hydraulic and other Machines for Raising Water. $2 50. 

The Fruit Garden. By P. Barry. $1 25. 

The American Fruit Culturist; Containing Directions for the Culture of Fruit Trees in the Nursery, Orchard, and Garden. By John J. Thomas. $1 25

The Rose Manual. By Robert Buist. 75 cts. 

The Plants of Boston and Vicinity. By Jacob Bigelow, M. D. , $1 50

The Indian Meal Book; Comprising the best Receipts for the Preparation of that Article. By Miss Leslie. 25 cts. 

The Horse's Foot, And How to Keep it Sound. By William Miles. 25 cts. 

Catechism of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology. By J. F. W. Johnston. 25 cts. 

Chemistry Applied to Agriculture. By Le Count Chaptal. 50 cts. 

British Husbandry. Three Vols. And Supplement. $5. 

Loudon's Arboretum. Eight Vols. $25. 

Loudon on Gardening. Loudon's Encyclopedia of Gardening. $10

Loudon on Agriculture. Loudon's Encyclopedia of Agriculture. $10. 

Loudon on Trees, &c. Loudon's Encyclopedia of Trees, Shrub, &c. 

Loudon on Plants, &c. Loudon's Encyclopedia of Plants, &c. 

The Farmer's Library. Two vols. 8vo. English. $5. 

The Farmer's Dictionary. By D. P. Gardner. $1 50. 

Practical Treatise on the Grape Vine. By J. Fisk Allen. Boards, $1. 

Practical Treatise on the Veterinary Art. By J. Bridden. 75 cts. 

Sheep Husbandry. By Henry S. Randall. $1 50. 

Agricultural Chemistry. By Justus Liebig. Cloth, $1; cheap edition, 25 cts. 

Animal Chemistry. By J. Liebig. Cloth, 50 cts. ; cheap ed. Paper, 25 cts. 

Liebig's Complete Works, In one vol. 8vo. $1. 

Cottage and Farm Houses. By A. J. Downing. $2. 

Country Houses. By A. J. Downing. $4. 

Sportsman's Library. By T. B. Johnson. English edition. $5. 

Landscape Gardening. By A. J. Downing. $3 50. 

Cottage Residences. By A. J. Downing. $2. 

Chaptal's Agricultural Chemistry, With Notes. $1. 

American Husbandry. By Gaylord and Tucker. $1. 

Gardeners Dictionary. By Geo. Don, F. L. S. 4 vols. , quarto, $10. 

Journal of Agriculture. Edited by John S. Skinner. 3 vols. $6. 

Downing's Horticulturist. Half morocco. Per Vol. Yearly Vols. $3 75. Do. Do. Half yearly " 2 00. 

The Complete Produce Reckoner, Showing the Value by Pound or Bushel. By R. Robbins. 75 cts. 

The American Shepherd. By L. A. Morrill. $1. 

The Principles of Agriculture. By Albert D. Thaer. $2 50. 

Lectures to Farmers on Agricultural Chemistry. By Alexander Petzholdts. 75 cts. 

The Complete Farrier. By John C. Knowlson. 25 cts. 

The Complete Cow Doctor. By J. C. Knowlson. 15 cts. 

Milch Cows. By Guenon. 38 cts. 

A Home for All; Or a New, Cheap, and Superior mode of Building, By O. S. Fowler. 50 cts. 

The Poultry Breeder. By George F. Burnham. 25 cts. 

The American Fowl Breeder. 25 cts. 

The Farmer's Companion. By Judge Buel. 75 cts. 

The Farmer's Instructor. By Judge Buel. $1. 

European Agriculture, From Personal Observation. By Henry Coleman. 2 vols. $5 00. Do. Do. Do. 1 vol. 4 00. 

The Gardener and Florist. 25 cts. 

The Honey Bee. By Bevan. 31 cts. 

Elements of Practical Agriculture. By John P. Norton. 50 cts. 

Rogers' Scientific Agriculture. 75 cts. 

Mills' Sportsman's Library. $1. 

Stable Talk and Table Talk. $1. 

Hawker and Porter on Shooting. $2 75. 

Field Sports. By Frank Forrester. 2 vols. $4

Fish and Fishing. By Frank Forrester. $2 50. 

The American Angler's Guide. By J. J. Brown. $1 50. 

Johnson's Farmer's Encyclopedia. Edited by G. Emerson, M. D. $4. 

Scientific and Practical Agriculture. By Alonzo Gray. 75 cts. 

Theory and Practice of Agriculture. By A. Partridge. 12 cts. 

Armstrong on Agriculture. 50 cts. 

Hovey's Magazine of Horticulture. Published monthly. Per annum $2

Downing' Horticulturist. Published monthly. Per annum $3

Gilpin's Landscape Gardening. English edition. $2 50. 

The Gardener's Calendar. By M. Mahon. $3 50. 

Agriculture for Schools. By Rev. J. L. Blake, D. D. $1. 

Text Book of Agriculture. By Davis. 50 cts. 

The American Agriculturist and Farmer's Cabinet. Published monthly. Per annum $1. 

Weeks on the Honey Bee. 

Cottages and Cottage Life. By Elliott. $2 25. 

Chemical Analysis. By Fresinus and Bullock. $1. 

Applied Chemistry. By A. Parnell. $1. 

The Vegetable Kingdom, Or Handbook of Plants. By L. D. Chapin. $1 25. 

The Muck Manual. A new edition. By Samuel L. Dana. $1. 

Youatt on the Horse. Edited by J. S. Skinner. $1 50. 

Clater's Farrier. 50 cts. 

The Dog and Sportsman. By J. S. Skinner. 50 cts. 

The Bird Keeper's Manual. 50 cts. 

The American Herd Book. By Lewis F. Allen. $

The American Orchardist. By J. Kenrick. 75 cts. 

Blacklock's Treatise on Sheep. 50 cts. 

Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden. By G. Lindley. $1 50. 

The Trees of America. By D. J. Brown. $4 50. 

American Flower Garden Directory. By Robert Buist. $1 25. 

The American Cattle Doctor. By G. H. Dodd. 1 vol. $1. 

Maury's Navigation. A New Theoretical and Practical Treatise on Navigation, in which the Auxiliary Branches of Mathematics and Astronomy are treated of, and the Theory and most simple Methods of Finding Time, Latitude, and Longitude, by Chronometers, Lunar Observations, Single and Double Altitudes, are taught. Third edition, enlarged and improved. By M. F. Maury, Lieut. U. S. Navy. 8vo. Sheep, library style. $3 50. 

Works of Thomas Dick. The Works of Thomas Dick, LL. D. 10 vols. , in 5, 12mo. Embellished by a Portrait of the Author, from an engraving on steel, and illustrated by woodcuts representing more than 500 different objects. Neat half muslin binding, $3 25; morocco backs, $4. 

Compendium of English Literature. A Compendium of English Literature, chronologically arranged, from Sir John Mandeville (14th century) to William Cowper (close of the 18th century); consisting of Biographical Sketches of the Authors, choice selections from their works; with Notes explanatory and illustrative, and directing to the best editions, and to various criticisms. Designed as a text-book to the higher classes in Schools and Academies, as well as for private reading. By Charles D. Cleveland. $1 50. 

An Elementary Treatise on Statics. By Gaspard Monge. With a Biographical Notice of the Author. Translated from the French by Woods Baker, A. M. , of the U. S. Coast Survey. $1 25. 

Harrison on the English Language. The Rise, Progress and present Structure of the English Language, by the Rev. Matthew Harrison, A. M. , Rector of Church Oakley, Hants. And Late Fellow of Queen's College, Oxford. $1. 

The Progressive Farmer. By J. A. Nash. 50 cents. 

The American Florist's Guide. 75 cents. 

Agricultural Dynamics. By J. J. Thomas. 

 * * * * *

THE AMERICAN BEE-KEEPER'S MANUAL. 

BY T. B. MINER. 

350 pp. 12mo. 35 ENGRAVINGS. PRICE $1. 

PUBLISHED BY C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON ST. , N. Y. 

 * * *

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

"The most complete work on the Bee and Bee-keeping we have yetseen. "--_N. Y. Tribune. _

"Mr. Miner has handled this subject in a masterly manner. "--_N. Y. TrueSun. _

"He has written a work of the most fascinating interest. "--_N. Y. SundayDispatch. _

"It will interest the general reader. It is indeed a charmingvolume. "--_Commercial Advertiser. _

"This is a truly valuable work, and very interesting. "--_Morning Star. _

"It is decidedly the best work we have ever seen. "--_Boston DailyMail. _

"Mr. Miner has performed his task with signal ability. "--_ScientificAmerican. _

"It does high credit to the observation and intelligence of theauthor. "--_Christian Intelligencer. _

"This is the most comprehensive and valuable work on the Honey-bee thathas ever come under our notice. "--_Journal of Commerce. _

"To appreciate the value of the honey-bee one must get this book andread it attentively. "--_Noah's Messenger. _

"We like it for its independent tone, and the amount of practicalinformation that it contains. "--_Literary World. _

"We have been greatly edified and entertained by this book, from whichthe reader will collect a great deal of excellent information. "--_TheIndependent. _

"This is probably the most complete manual of the kind ever published. It will richly repay the general reader, too, by the variety ofinteresting facts it contains. "--_Boston Traveller. _

"It is a most excellent and useful treatise, and happily supplies avacuum that had long existed. "--_Boston Times. _

"This volume has all the charm of a romance and admirably displays thehabits of this insect. "--_Organ. _

"This volume is what it pretends to be, (more than can be said of manyworks) and all who want a full and thorough history of the nature andmanagement of the bee should have it in their possession. "--_ScientificAmerican. _

"It is neatly printed, well illustrated and clearly written andcontains a great deal of practical information. "--_Mirror. _

"This work probably contains better instructions in regard to bees thanany which have ever appeared. "--_Sun. _

"The practical directions are the result of evident experience, andbeing plainly and concisely stated, are excellent, It is so much betterthan can be obtained elsewhere that we commend it to favor. "--_N. Y. Evangelist. _

"It is an excellent book and the best published on thesubject. "--_Boston Olive Branch. _

 * * * * *

ILLUSTRATED TREATISE ON DOMESTIC ANIMALS, Being a history and description of the Horse, Mule, Cattle, SheepSwine, Poultry, and Farm Dogs; with Directions for their Management, Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and preparation for a profitablemarket. Also, their Diseases and Remedies; together with FullDirections for the Management of the Dairy, and the Comparative Economyand Advantages of Working Animals, the Horse, Mule, Oxen, &c. , by R. L. ALLEN, _Author of "Compend of American Agriculture"_ &c. 

The above work contains more than 40 Engravings and Portraits ofImproved Animals illustrative of the different breeds and varioussubjects treated in it. 

The most minute as well as general principles for Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and Management of all Domestic Animals, are hereingiven, to produce the utmost marketable value for the food andattention bestowed on them; as well as to prevent disease, and save theimmense losses which annually occur from this source. It can be sent byMail, in Cloth Binding, for 75 Cents--Paper, 50 Cents. Published by C. M. SAXTON, 152 Fulton St. New York. For sale by all the Booksellersthroughout the country. 

Agents wanted for _every county_ in every state. Address, _post paid_, the Publisher. 

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 

The Compactness yet completeness will make it a favorite withagriculturists. --_Chronicle, Philadelphia. _

Its greatest worth is, as a complete farrier, showing the diseases ofanimals, their treatment, and cure. --_Far. & Mec. _

The portion which relates to the dairy alone, is worth the cost of thebook. --_Worcester Transcript. _

It is every way adapted to be serviceable in every household which hasdomestic animals. --_D. Adv. ; Newark. _

We believe it a complete guide for the farmer and dairyman in thepurchase, care, and use of animals. --_Jeffersonian. _

Here is a work which should be in the hands of every farmer. -_-HighlandCourier. _

We can confidently recommend this work as a very instructive one tothose engaged in farming, raising stock, or husbandry. --_NorthamptonCourier. _

The author is a practical farmer and stockbreeder, and is able to vouchfor the correctness of the remedies for diseases of Domestic Animals, as well as the best mode of managing them. --_Huron, O. Reflector. _

It costs but _seventy-five cents_, and cannot fail to be worth _tentimes_ that amount to any farmer. --_Summit S. C. Beacon. _

It is the best of that character we have yet seen; no farmer should bewithout it--_Democrat, Carlisle, Pa. _

This is just such a book as every owner of stock should be possessedof. --_Easton Md. Star. _

Here is a book which all--those who follow the plow, and those whodirect it--can read to profit. It is a library of knowledge, presentingthe latest improvements and discoveries, on all the topics treated of;and illustrated by a great variety of cuts. The "Allens, " one of whomis the author of the work before us, are quite famous in their especial_role_, so that what proceeds from them may be confidently credited atall events. The present book is a most interesting and instructive one, and must meet with a great sale. --_Sciota Gazette. _

This work, to the farmer and stock raiser, will be useful, instructive, and profitable, enabling them to improve the breed of their stock, preserve them from sickness, and cure them when infected withdisease. --_Herald, Morrisville, Pa. _

The time has gone by when farmers can expect to _succeed_ withoutgiving some attention to Book Farming, and we trust they begin to seeit for themselves. We should like to hear that this work was in thehands of every farmer in the county. --_Mercury, Potsdam, N. Y. _

The title page of this work gives a good idea of its scope and intent. It is a comprehensive summary of farm operations, and will prove veryacceptable to the great mass of our farming population. We are informedthat 3, 000 copies of this work have been sold since the first ofJanuary. It is well printed and profusely illustrated--_N. Y. Tribune. _

It is furnished with numerous illustrating cuts, and will form acomplete "vade mecum" for The agriculturist, convenient for reference, and to be relied on when consulted---_Baltimore American. _

This is a practical book by a practical man, and will serve extensivepractical ends. It is a companion which every farmer will feel that hecannot well be without. --_N. Y. Observer. _

We cheerfully recommend this work to farmers. --_Signal, Juliett, Ill. _

We anticipate an extensive sale for this work--_Ohio Cultivator. _

This work ought to be in the hands of every planter. --_N. O. Delta. _

The author is a gentleman of fine attainments, and who ranks as one ofthe most accomplished writers on agricultural subjects in thecountry. --_Ala. Planter. _

Many a valuable animal is lost, every year, for want of the knowledgehere conveyed. --_Eagle Brattleboro, Vt. _

The author (Mr. Allen), is a practical man, and everything from hispen, on subjects connected with agriculture and cattle breeding, isvaluable to those who prefer matter of fact to mere theory--_MaineFarmer. _

 * * * * *

_Published by C. M. Saxton. _

 * * *

AMERICAN MUCK BOOK, Treating of the Nature, Properties, Sources, Operations, &c. 

OF ALL THE PRINCIPAL FERTILIZERS AND MANURES IN COMMON USE, WITHSPECIFIC DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR

PREPARATION, PRESERVATION, AND APPLICATION

to Soil and Crops; with the leading principles of Practical andScientific Agriculture, &c. , &c. By D. J. Browne. 420 pp. 12mo. Price$1. 

 * * *

Opinions of the Press. 

"The Muck Book contains a great deal of valuable matter. This has beendrawn from a large number of the best authorities on the subjectsindicated in the title; the numerous analyses of plants and manures areparticularly valuable, and are not to be found in any other singletreatise. Those who wish to advance towards perfection in the saving, manufacturing, and judging of the comparative value of manures, and inapplying them with the least possible waste to crops, will find in thisbook a vast magazine of suggestions and advice, worth many times itscost and the labor of perusal. "--_Albany Cultivator. _

"The title 'Muck Book' inadequately describes the character of thework; for it treats of all kinds of fertilizers, animal, vegetable andmineral, and in a style to instruct without perplexing. The manner inwhich the various manures operate, and the means whereby any requireddeficiency in the soil can be supplied, are plainly given; and noneneed waste a horn-pith or an old shoe, as many do, for want ofknowledge how to turn it to advantage. 

"We recommend the work to intelligent and inquiring farmers, who desireto make everything tell in the manure heap, and who would keep theirsoil in good heart. "--_Journal of Agriculture. _

"From an attentive examination of the pages of this book, I have cometo the conclusion that it is one of the best works extant, on theprinciples of scientific agriculture, and the best compendium of ourmost recent knowledge of the nature of manures and their adaptation toparticular soils and crops. "--_N. E. Farmer. _

"Mr. Browne was, we believe, bred and educated a practical farmerhimself, and having a general knowledge of geology, chemistry, &c. , andextensive personal knowledge of farming, gardening, &c, in almost everysoil and climate, having been for five years a traveller and residentin America, Europe, Western Africa, and the West Indies, hisobservation and experience combined, would render him eminentlyqualified for the task. This he has accomplished with credit tohimself, and no doubt the result will prove it highly advantageous tothe farming community. It is just such a work as is needed by everyagriculturist, and the very neat and excellent style in which theenterprising publisher has issued it, will we are very sure commend itto every friend of the farming interest in the country. "--_N. Y. Farmerand Mechanic. _

"This is a well-written work of over four hundred pages, printed andbound in the usual handsome and permanent style of Mr. Saxton. Theimportance to every farmer and horticulturist of the great subject ofwhich it treats cannot fail to make this work invaluable to the libraryof every man who tills the soil. One feature of this work which pleasesus, and which will make it universally acceptable is, that the subjectsare treated in such a manner as to be easily understood by the 'workingfarmer, ' who knows little or nothing of chemical science and learnedtechnicalities. With such a work as this in his hands, the farmer isenabled to reclaim his lands, impoverished by his own or his ancestors'mismanagement, and realize abundant crops where nothing would grow toreward his toil in the ordinary mode of culture. "--_PhrenologicalJournal. _

_The following is from. Dr. C. T. Jackson, of Boston, the bestAgricultural Chemist in the United States_:

 BOSTON, NOVEMBER 6th, 1851. 

 DEAR SIR: I have the pleasure of acknowledging the receipt of a copy of the "American Muck Book, " recently published by you, and edited by Mr. D. Jay Browne. 

 From an attentive examination of the pages of this book, I have come to the conclusion that it is one of the best works extant, on the principles of scientific agriculture, and the best compendium of our most recent knowledge of the nature of manures and their adaptation to particular soils and crops. It cannot be expected that a single volume could possibly contain the whole sum of chemical knowledge applicable to the science of agriculture; but, on looking over the closely-printed and compact tables of analyses, and the abundant formulas, which this publication contains, I could not fail to be surprised at the industry manifested in preparing it. I was also gratified to find it so well adapted to the American system of husbandry, and so practical, in its character. Its copious and accurate index adds not a little to its value. 

 I shall certainly recommend it to my agricultural friends as a very useful book, and one necessary to every scientific farmer. 

 I am, respectfully, your ob't servant, CHARLES T. JACKSON, State Assayist, &c. , &c. 

 To C. M. SAXTON, Esq. , New York. 

 * * * * *

THE

AMERICAN FARM BOOK, OR

COMPEND OF AMERICAN AGRICULTURE

CONTAINING A CONCISE AND PLAINLY-WRITTEN EXPOSITION OF DUTIES PERTAININGTO THE CULTIVATION OF THE EARTH, THE MANAGEMENT OF THE FARM, &C. , &C. , ON PRACTICAL SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLES. 

BY R. L. ALLEN. 

_The cheapest and most valuable book for a farmer ever printed; beinga complete guide, both practical and scientific, for the_

MANAGEMENT OF THE FARM. 

 * * *

Besides the varied practical knowledge which this book imparts, andwhich is indispensable to the proper management of every department ofagriculture, it gives the elements of other information highlynecessary to a successful farmer, as History, Geology, Chemistry, Botany, Physiology, and Mechanics. These branches of knowledge aregiven as applicable to agricultural pursuits, and when properlyunderstood will essentially aid and assist the farmer. In fact, aknowledge of these sciences is a sure key to wealth for anyagriculturist. It gives the modes of preparation, and the effects ofall kinds of manures; the origin, texture, divisions, and descriptionof every variety of soil; the economy of sowing, reaping, and mowing, irrigation, and draining; cultivation of the grasses, clovers, grains, and roots; _Southern_ and miscellaneous products, as cotton, hemp, flax, the sugar cane, rice, tobacco, hops, madder, woad, &c. ; therearing of fruit--apples, pears, peaches, plums, grapes, &c. ; farmbuildings, hedges, &c. ; with the best methods of planting, cultivating, and preparation for market. Illustrated by 100 engravings. 

The reader can form some idea of the above work, from the fact that ittreats of 800 _different subjects_ important to a farmer. It contains354 pages, and is beautifully bound in cloth, suitable for a library. _Price only One Dollar. _

NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 

The author has been one of the most able contributors to theagricultural press for the last ten years; aside from this, he is apractical farmer and stock-breeder, and consequently knows from his ownexperience what he is writing about. --_Commercial Advertiser. _

This work is by a gentleman of known experience; the work isexceedingly cheap, and the farmer will find it a valuable book ofreference. --_N. Y. Express. _

It is in fact a brief encyclopedia on the subjects treated, and thefarmer will find appropriate Information on almost any subject comingwithin his reach. --_N. Y. Observer. _

Here is a book for the million, precisely what its title indicates. Compassed within its pages, the reader will find the subject of soils, manures, crops, and animals, treated in a style easily comprehended. --_N. Y. Spirit of the Times. _

This work is what might be expected from one so well qualified for theundertaking. --_Boston Cultivator. _

Why shall not every good farmer economise his muscles by storing hismind? We hope this book will find its way into many family and schoollibraries. --_N. Y. Tribune. _

We think that Mr. Allen's volume, the basis of which is good practicalfarming, as practised by the best cultivators in the United States, with an intelligent reference to those principles of science which lieat the root of all successful practice, is likely to be of as muck ormore real service to us, than any work on agriculture yet issued fromthe press, and we gladly commend it to the perusal of every one of ourreaders engaged in the cultivation of the land. --_Horticulturist. _

 * * * * *

THE

FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER;

CONTAINING

PLAIN AND ACCURATE DESCRIPTIONS

OF ALL THE

DIFFERENT SPECIES AND VARIETIES

OF

CULINARY VEGETABLES:

BY ROBERT BUIST, AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY, ROSE MANUAL, ETC. 

 * * *

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET, ALSO, STRINGER & TOWNSEND, H. LONG & BROTHER, W. F. BURGESS, DEWITT & DAVENPORT, WILSON & CO. , DEXTER &BROTHER, BOSTON: REDDING & CO. PHILADELPHIA:W. B. ZIMMER, LINDSAY & BLAKISTON. 

 * * * * *

THE

AMERICAN BIRD FANCIER;

CONSIDERED WITH REFERENCE TO THEBREEDING, REARING, FEEDING, MANAGEMENT, AND PECULIARITIESOF

CAGE AND HOUSE BIRDS. 

Illustrated with Engravings

BY D. J. BROWNE, AUTHOR OF THE SYLVA AMERICANA, THE AMERICAN POULTRY YARD, ETC. 

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET. 

ALSO, STRINGER & TOWNSEND, H. LONG & BROTHER, W. F. BURGESS, DEWITT & DAVENPORT, WILSON & CO. , DEXTER & BROTHERPHILADELPHIA: W. B. ZIEBER, LINDSAY & BLAKISTON. BOSTON: REDDING & CO. 

 * * * * *

LECTURES

ON THE

GENERAL RELATIONS WHICH SCIENCE

BEARS TO

PRACTICAL AGRICULTURE, DELIVERED BEFORE THE

NEW-YORK STATE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. 

BY

JAMES F. W. JOHNSTON, F. R. S. S. L. & E. 

WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS

 * * *

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, AGRICULTURAL BOOKSELLER. 

 * * * * *

AN

ESSAY ON MANURES, SUBMITTED TO THE TRUSTEES OF

THE MASSACHUSETTS SOCIETY

FOR

PROMOTING AGRICULTURE, FOR THEIR PREMIUM. 

BY SAMUEL L. DANA. 

_From the New York Observer:_

ESSAY ON MANURES. By SAMUEL L. DANA

This Essay contains much useful information for the practical farmer, ina small compass, in reference to the nature and management of manuresimmediately under his control; the knowledge and practice of which willamply compensate for the expense of ascertaining its value. 

 * * *

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET. 

ALSO, STRINGER & TOWNSEND, H. LONG & BROTHER, W. F. BURGESS, DEWITT & DAVENPORT, WILSON & CO. , DEXTER &BROTHER. BOSTON: REDDING & CO. PHILADELPHIA:W. B. ZIEBER, LINDSAY & BLAKISTON. 

 * * * * *

A PRACTICAL TREATISE

ON THE

CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE VINE

ON OPEN WALLS. 

WITH A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF AN

IMPROVED METHOD OF PLANTING AND MANAGING

THE

ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES. 

BY CLEMENT HOARE

TO WHICH IS ADDED, AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING

REMARKS ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE VINE IN

THE UNITED STATES. 

 * * *

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET.