MEMOIR OF THE PROPOSED TERRITORY OF ARIZONA. BY SYLVESTER MOWRY, U. S. A. , DELEGATE ELECT. WASHINGTON: HENRY POLKINHORN, PRINTER. 1857. "The NEW TERRITORY of ARIZONA, better known as the GADSDEN PURCHASE, lies between the thirty-first and thirty-third parallels of latitude, and is bounded on the north by the Gila River, which separates it fromthe territory of New Mexico; on the east by the Rio Bravo del Norte, (Rio Grande), which separates it from Texas; on the south by Chihuahuaand Sonora, Mexican provinces; and on the west by the Colorado River ofthe West, which separates it from Upper and Lower California. Thisgreat region is six hundred miles long by about fifty miles wide, andembraces an area of about thirty thousand square miles. It was acquiredby purchase from Mexico, during the mission of General Gadsden, at acost of ten millions of dollars. In the original treaty, as negotiatedby General Gadsden, a more southern boundary than the one adopted bythe Senate of the United States in confirming the treaty, was concededby Santa Anna. The line at present is irregular in its course, and cutsoff from our Territory the head of the Santa Cruz river and valley, theSonoita valley, the San Bernardino valley, the whole course of theColorado river from a point twenty miles below the mouth of the Gilariver, and, worse than all, the control of the head of the Gulf ofCalifornia, and the rich and extensive valley of Lake Guzman, besides alarge and extremely valuable silver region, well known both to Mexicansand Americans--the planchas de la Platte. General Gadsden's lineincluded nearly all the territory south of the Gila river to thethirty-first parallel of latitude--all the advantages abovementioned--gave us the mouth of the Colorado river, and probably a portnear the head of the gulf at Adair's Bay. We have no accurate survey ofthe west coast of the Gulf of California, but I am strongly of opinionthat the original line conceded by Mexico would have thrown a portionof the gulf into American hands, by cutting off an arm of it extendingeast and north from the main body of water. A port on the gulf is ofgreat and immediate necessity to our Pacific possessions. Of thishereafter. The proposed boundaries, of the Territory of Arizona, are the 34thparallel of latitude, with New Mexico on the north, from the 103dmeridian west to the Colorado; Texas on the east; Texas, and theMexican provinces of New Mexico and Sonora on the south; and Californiaon the west. The new Territory would thus contain within its bordersthe three largest rivers on the Continent, west of the Mississippi--theRio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the west, and embrace 90, 000 squaremiles. The Gadsden purchase is attached by act of Congress to the Territory ofNew Mexico. At the time of its acquisition there was scarcely anypopulation except a few scattering Mexicans in the Mesilla valley, andat the old town of Tucson, in the centre of the territory. The ApacheIndian, superior in strength to the Mexican, had gradually extirpatedevery trace of civilization, and roamed uninterrupted and unmolested, sole possessor of what was once a thriving and populous Spanishprovince. Except the report of Col. A. B. Gray, there is scarcely anything inprint with reference to the early history of Arizona, beyond the scantybut valuable notes of Major Emory and Hon. John R. Bartlett, in theirreports, and in the appendix to Wilson's late book, "Mexico and itsReligion. " To this last I beg to refer any reader who desires accurateinformation respecting the Northern Mexican provinces, presented in astraightforward common-sense style. In the possession of the writer of these notes is a map drawn in 1757, just one hundred years ago, presented by the Society of Jesuits to theKing of Spain. The original of this map is now in the archives of theMexican Government. It was copied, with the notes relating to theTerritory, and to Sonora, Chihuahua, and Sinaloa, by Capt. C. P. Stone, late of the United States Army. The map bears the inscription, "Cartelevee par la Societe des Jesuites, dediee au Roi d'Espagne en 1757. " The copy of the map and the accompanying notes are certified asaccurate by the officer of the Mexican Government in charge of thearchives. My information, therefore, upon the early history of this comparativelyunknown domain, is accurate and reliable. As early as 1687, a Jesuitmissionary from the province of Sonora, which, in its southern portion, bore already the impress of Spanish civilization, descended the valleyof Santa Cruz river to the Gila. Passing down the Gila to its mouth, after exploring the country, he retraced his steps, penetrated thecountry north of the Gila river for some distance, and ascended theSalinas or Salt river, and other northern branches of the Gila. Theexplorations of this energetic priest did not stop here. Proceedingeast, he explored the valley of the San Pedro and its branches, thencealong the Gila to the Mimbres, and probably to the Rio Grande and theMesilla valley. Filled with the enthusiasm of his sect, he procuredauthority from the head of the order in Mexico, and establishedmissions and settlements at every available point. In a report to thegovernment of the viceroy of Spain, made during the early settlement ofthe province, I find the following language: "A scientific explorationof Sonora, with reference to mineralogy, along with the introduction offamilies, will lead to a discovery of gold and silver so marvellousthat the result will be such as has never yet been seen in the world. " The reports of the immense mineral wealth of the new country, made bythe Jesuits, induced a rapid settlement. There are laid down on the mapbefore me more than forty towns and villages. Many of these were ofconsiderable size. There were a few north of the Gila, and several onthe lower Gila, near the Colorado. The Santa Cruz and its tributaryvalleys teemed with an agricultural and mining population. Thousands ofenterprising Spaniards cultivated the rich valley of the San Pedro, andscattered settlements flourished at every suitable stream and spring atthe foot of the mountains towards the Rio Grande. The notes before mesay: "All these settlements and missions were founded in fertilevalleys, and by streams and springs, which produced luxuriant crops ofwheat, corn, and beans, and in many parts grapes and other foreignfruits were cultivated. " In the western part of the Territory were the missions of St. Pierre, St. Paul, St. Matthias, St. Simond, St. Francisco, Merci, the ranchesof Eau Cheri, Eau de la Lune, and others; on the Santa Cruz themissions of San Xavier del Bac, Santiago, San Cayetano, and SanPhilipe, the towns of Tueson, Tubac, Reges, San Augusta, and manyothers. San Xavier del Bac is still in existence. It is a missionchurch of great size and beauty, magnificently ornamented within; fortythousand dollars in solid silver served to adorn the altar. Upon theSan Pedro river were the missions of St. Mark, San Salvadore, SanPantaleon, Santa Cruz, and the towns of Quiduria, Rosario, Eugenia, Victoria, and San Fernando--the latter at the mouth--with many more. Tothe east some small settlements were found on the Valle del Sauz, onthe Mimbres, at the copper mines north of the Mimbres, and to the souththe immense grazing and stock-raising establishment of San Bernardino, where since have been raised hundreds of thousands of cattle andhorses. The Indians in the vicinity of the missions were reduced firstto obedience by the Jesuits, and then to slavery by the Spaniards. The notes referred to above contain the names and localities of morethan a hundred silver and gold mines which were worked with greatsuccess by the Spaniards. The survey of the Jesuit priest about 1687was repeated in 1710 with renewed discoveries, and consequent accessionof population. From this time up to 1757 the conquest and settlement ofthe country was prosecuted with vigor, both by the Jesuits' Society andSpanish government. The missions and settlements were repeatedly destroyed by the Apaches, and the priests and settlers massacred or driven off. As often werethey re-established. The Indians at length, thoroughly aroused by thecruelties of the Spaniards, by whom they were deprived of theirliberty, forced to labor in the silver mines with inadequate food, andbarbarously treated, finally rose, joined with tribes who had neverbeen subdued, and gradually drove out or massacred their oppressors. Asuperior civilization disappeared before their devastating career, andto day there is scarcely a trace of it left, except scarcely visibleruins, evidence everywhere, of extensive and hastily-deserted miningoperations, and the tradition of the country. The mission of San Xavierdel Bac, and the old towns of Tueson and Tubac, are the most prominentof these remains. The labors of the Jesuits to civilize the Indians arestill evident in the mission Indians, the Papagos and Pimas, who livein villages, cultivate crops of corn and wheat, and who, in theChristian and human elements of good faith and charity, are, to say theleast, in no way inferior to the Mexicans. After the massacre of fourof Crabbe's unfortunate party near Sonoita by the Mexicans, the PapagoIndians buried carefully the bodies to which Mexican inhumanity haddenied this last charitable office. It is a curious and suggestive factthat the latitude of places upon Gila, Santa Cruz, and San Pedro, determined by the Jesuits about 1750, has lately been verified by theobservations of Park Michler, and Emory. The instruments used by theJesuits were constructed by them, the lenses being made from pebbles. From 1757 down to 1820, the Spaniards and Mexicans continued to workmany valuable mines near Barbacora, and the notes in my possessionspeak of many silver mines, most of which contained a percentage ofgold. "The San Pedro gold mine in 1748 was worked with extraordinarysuccess. " Among the mines anciently worked, as laid down in theauthorities heretofore referred to, were the Dolores, San Antonio, CasaGordo, Cabrisa, San Juan Batista, Santa Anna, (which was worked to thedepth of one hundred and twenty yards, ) Rosario, Cata de Agua, Guadaloupe, Connilla, Prieta, Santa Catarina, Guzopa, Huratano, Arpa, Descuhidara, Nacosare, Arguage, Churinababi, Huacal, Pinal, and a greatnumber of others which it would only be tedious to mention. The most celebrated modern localities are Arivaca, (also ancientlyfamous as Aribac, ) Sopori, the Arizona mountains, the Santa Rita range, the Cerro Colorado, the entire vicinity of Tubac, the Del Ajo, orArizona copper mine, the Gadsonia copper mine, and the Gila rivercopper mines. These last are situated directly upon the Gila, onlytwenty-five miles from its mouth. The writer assures the public thatthere is no room for doubt as to the authenticity of these statements, or the immense resources of the new Territory in silver, copper, andprobably gold. As late as 1820, the Mina Cobre de la Plata, (silvercopper mines, ) near Fort Webster, north of the Gila, were worked togreat advantage; and so rich was the ore that it paid fortransportation on muleback more than a thousand miles to the city ofMexico. Every exploration within the past few years has confirmed thestatements of the ancient records. The testimony of living Mexicans, and the tradition of the country, all tend to the same end. Col. A. B. Gray, Col. Emory, Lt. Michler, Lt. Parke, the Hon. John R. Bartlett, late of the United States Boundary Commission, all agree in thestatement that the Territory has immense resources in silver andcopper. Col. Emory says in his report: "On account of the Gold Mania in California I kept the search for goldand other precious metals as much out of view as possible, scarcelyallowing it to be a matter of conversation, much less of actual search. Yet, enough was ascertained to convince us that the whole region wasteeming with the precious metals. We everywhere saw the remains ofmining operations, conducted by the Spaniards, and more recently by theMexicans. " The report enumerates at considerable length the various localitiesexamined by Col. Emory's party, and others, of which there could be nodoubt. In view of these authorities, it is hoped that those who will notbelieve upon any evidence, will be content in their own incredulity. The most authentic reports of these immense mineral resources have beenused as authorities against their existence. The authors of thesedenials either have never read what they pretend to quote, or think noone else has. The Hon. T. Butler King, who was the first to reveal toan incredulous public the wonders of the California gold mines, has hadthe singular good fortune to be also among the first to publish correctand authentic information relating to the silver treasures of Arizona. His report upon the resources of the new Territory has all the charm tothe reader that his California report had, and its brilliantpredictions will be as fully realized. To Gray and Emory is the countrymost indebted for the earliest and most important discoveries. The agricultural resources of Arizona, are sufficient to sustain alarge mining population, and afford abundant supplies for the greatimmigration which will follow the development of its mineral resources. The whole valley of the Gila, more than four hundred miles in length, can be made with proper exertion to yield plentiful crops. The PimosIndians, who live in villages on the Gila, one hundred and seventymiles from its mouth, raise large crops of cotton, wheat, and corn, andhave for years supplied the thousands of emigrants who traverse theTerritory en route to California. These Indians manufacture theircotton into blankets of fine texture and beautiful pattern, whichcommand a high price. They also grind their corn and wheat, and makebread. In fact, the Pimos realize in their everyday life something ofour ideas of Aztec civilization. A town will probably grow up justabove the Pimos villages, as there is a rich back country, and thestreams afford a valuable water power for running mills. The valley of the Santa Cruz traverses the territory from South toNorth, sinking near the town of Tueson, and probably finding its way tothe Gila, as a subterranean stream. This valley, of the richest land, is about one hundred miles long, in many places of great width, and hason each side of it many rich valleys of limited extent, watered bystreams from the mountains, which flow into the Santa Cruz. The valleysand Ranches of Arivaca, Sopori, Calabazas, and Tueson, are those atpresent most thickly settled. These produce all the fruits known to aSouthern clime--grapes, wheat, corn, and cotton in great abundance. TheSan Pedro river and valley is also one of great richness, and isreported by Lieut. Parke as capable of sustaining a large population. The Valle de Sauz, still farther East, more limited than the San Pedroor Santa Cruz, can be made available for a considerable population. TheMimbres River also can, by a small outlay, be made to irrigate a largesurface and supply a moderate settlement. The various springs laid downby Gray, Emory, Parke, and Bartlett, will all afford water for smallsettlements, and their supply can be much increased by a judiciousoutlay of money. The Rio Grande valley is very rich, and in places ofgreat width. The Mesilla valley already contains a population of aboutfive thousand souls, and there is ample room for many more. If, as proposed, the Northern boundary of the Arizona Territory shouldenclose the Northern branches of the Gila, an agricultural region willbe opened to settlement sufficient in itself to sustain the populationof an immense agricultural State. Col. Bonneville, who is now at thehead of a large force exploring this region, writes to the Secretary ofWar that it is the finest country he has ever seen, "valleys capable ofsustaining a population of twenty thousand each, teeming at every stepwith evidences of an immense population long ago-and an ancient andsuperior civilization. " The Hon. John R. Bartlett says of the"Salinas, " one of the Northern branches of the Gila, that it alone willsupply food for a great State. It must be recollected, in thisconnection, that the great mineral wealth of Arizona will call for andamply repay for the redemption and expensive cultivation of all theavailable lands, and that irrigation produces immensely greater cropsthan the other method of planting. Throughout the whole of Utah, irrigation has been resorted to with the greatest success. The soil inUtah, in no place that the writer saw it, could in any way be comparedto that of the bottom lands of Arizona. Captain Whipple in his valuable report of exploration for the PacificRailroad, published by order of Congress, crossed the upper part of theregion alluded to, and which is watered by the Rio Verde and Salinas. He fully sustains me in my remarks on those rich valleys. "We are in the pleasantest region we have seen since leaving theChoctaw country. Here are clear rivulets, with fertile valleys andforest trees. The wide belt of country that borders the Black Forest, and probably extends along the Rio Verde to the Salinas and Gila, bearsevery indication of being able to support a large agricultural andpastoral population. The valley of the Rio Verde is magnificentlywooded with furs and oaks, affording excellent timber. Ancient ruinsare said by trappers to be scattered over its whole length to theconfluence with the Salinas. We, therefore, seem to have skirted theboundary of a country once populous, and worthy of becoming so again. Besides the advantages already enumerated, the mountains in thisvicinity bear indications of mineral wealth. Vol. 3, p. 93. " The notes before referred to, in the possession of the writer, speak ofgreat farming and grazing establishments scattered over the whole faceof the Territory, between 1610 and 1800, which produced abundant cropsof cereals, fruits, and grapes. These statements are confirmed by thetestimony of Major Emory and his report, where he enumerates several ofthe most extensive--by Gray, Bartlett, Parke, and Col. Bonneville. Manyof the Ranches, deserted by the Mexicans on account of the ApacheIndians, have upon them large, well-built adobe houses which must havecost the builders thousands of dollars. Many of these have beenoccupied under squatter titles by emigrants within the last few years. Of others, only the ruins remain, having been destroyed by thedepredations of the Indians, or by the heavy rains of the succeedingyears. The greater portion of these lands on the Santa Cruz and San Pedro arecovered by Mexican titles--and many of these again by squatter claims. It is absolutely necessary that Congress should by some wise and speedylegislation settle, upon some definite basis, the land titles ofArizona. Until this is done, disorder and anarchy will reign supremeover the country. The present condition of California is in a greatdegree to be attributed to the want of any title to the most valuablereal property in the State, and the millions which have been spent infruitless litigation should teach a lesson of great practical value. Let those Spanish grants and Mexican titles which have been occupied ingood faith be affirmed in the most expeditious and economical manner tothe claimants, and they will immediately pass into American hands, andbecome productive. The remainder of the country should then be thrownopen to settlers. No better code of mining law exists than the Spanish, adopted in the Senate bill introduced by the late General Rusk, andpassed at the last session of Congress. A judicious and liberaldonation law, giving to the actual settler a homestead, and to theenterprising miner and "prospector" a fair security for the fruit ofhis labors, will at once make of Arizona a popular, thriving andwealthy State, affording new markets for the productions of ourAtlantic States, and yielding annually millions in silver and copper. In addition to the produce of Arizona, the immediate vicinity of theagricultural region of Sonora affords an abundant market for allnecessary supplies, including sugar, which is manufactured by theMexicans in great quantities from the cane. Guyamas, which one day willbe ours, is one of the largest ports for the export of flour on thePacific coast north of Chili. She also exports several millions insilver annually, which finds its way direct to the English market. Under an intelligent system, the Sonora mines would yield a hundredmillions a year, and the supply is inexhaustible. If any reader doubtsthis statement, refer him to the statistics of Humboldt, Ward, andWilson, most unquestioned and valuable authorities. Both Humboldt andWard note the fact that the silver deposites grow richer as they aretraced farther North. There can be no doubt that the most extensive andvaluable mines, both of pure silver and silver mixed with copper andlead, are within the limits of Arizona. The yield of the silver mines of Mexico, as computed by Ward andHumboldt from the actual official returns to the Government, from theconquest to 1803, amounts to the enormous sum of $2, 027, 955, 000, ormore than two BILLIONS Of dollars. Again, Ward says: "I am aware thatmany of the statements in this and the preceding books respecting themineral riches of the North of New Spain, (Sonora, including the'Gadsden Purchase, ' Chihuahua, and Durango, ) will be thoughtexaggerated. THEY ARE NOT SO; they will be confirmed by every futurereport, and in after years, the public, FAMILIARIZED WITH facts whichare only questioned because they are new, will wonder at its presentincredulity, and regret the loss of advantages which may not always bewithin its reach. " Of the present mining operations in the Territory of Arizona, the mostconsiderable, in point of labor performed and results, is "The ArizonaCopper Mining Co. " This company is incorporated by the CaliforniaLegislature, with a capital of one million of dollars. The President isMajor Robert Allen, U. S. A. The mines are old, and very celebrated inMexico under the name of El-Ajo. This company, at an expense of$100, 000, have supplied their mines with an abundance of water, extracted several hundred tons of ore, and erected buildings, smeltingfurnaces, and other appliances to facilitate their operations. Theyemploy about one hundred men, mostly Mexican miners. Their supplies ofbreadstuffs and beef are obtained by contract from Sonora. These minesare situated one hundred and thirty miles from the mouth of the GilaRiver, and about sixty miles south of it. The ore varies in richnessfrom thirty to sixty per cent, and the proceeds of some sales in Londonwere quoted as being the highest prices ever paid for ore in thatmarket. A portion of this mine is owned by English capitalists, and itis without doubt one of the most valuable in the world. The profits maybe easily calculated, when it is known that the ore costs delivered inSwansea, England, not exceeding $125 per ton, and is worth from $200 to$375 per ton. Of course these profits will be greatly increased whenthe company is in a position to smelt its ores at the mine. The SonoraExploring and Mining Company was organized in 1856, with a capital oftwo million dollars ($2, 000, 000). Its principal office is inCincinnati, Ohio, and its seat of operations at Tubac, in the SantaCruz valley. This company is managed in its mining operations by Chas. D. Poston, Esq. , a gentleman of much experience on the Pacific coast, and of great energy of character. The Rancho of Arivaca, containing several valuable silver mines, andseventeen thousand acres of valuable land, has been purchased by thiscompany. It has also acquired the titles to a number of other valuablemines of galena ore, and copper containing silver and gold. Hitherto, the exertions of the company have been directed principally toexplorations and cleaning out the old mines, but they have at presentabove ground, ready for smelting, several thousand dollars worth oftheir ores. Prof. Booth, U. S. Assayer, as well as other distinguishedauthorities, have, after thorough experiment, given to the companycertificates of the great richness of the ores already shipped to theeast. The annual report of the Sonora Mining Co. Is full of interest tothe general reader. The Sopori mine is another very valuable property. It is owned by Messrs. Douglass, Aldrich, and another. Want of capitalhas prevented the extensive development of this mine. It affords itsproprietors a handsome profit, worked in the smallest and cheapestmanner. The vein is of great size, has been traced several rods inlength, and pays about one dollar to the pound of ore. The writer hasexamined specimens from the "Sopori, " taken at random, and so rich isthe ore that the native silver can be cut out of it with a penknife, asout of a Mexican dollar. Undoubtedly the Sopori mine is destined toyield hundreds of millions. It is a peculiarity of the ores in thisdistrict that they run near the surface, making mining of comparativesmall cost. The Sopori mine is surrounded by a fine country, wellwatered and wooded. The "Gadsonia Copper Mining Co. , " after taking outa few tons of exceedingly rich ore--averaging over eighty percent. --was obliged to suspend operations on account of the cost oftransportation. When the Territory shall be organized and capitalprotected by law, these mines will be worked to advantage. "The GilaRiver Copper Mines" are more favorably situated than any other yetopened, being directly on the Gila River, only twenty-five miles fromits mouth. The ores can be taken from the mine, immediately shippedupon flat boats or a light draft steamer, and transported down theColorado River to the head of the Gulf of California, when they can betranshipped to England at small cost. Upwards of twenty veins of copperore have been opened, and the assays give results varying from 30 to 70per cent. These mines are owned by Messrs. Hooper, Hinton, Halstead, and another. Several thousand dollars have been already expended inprospecting and opening veins, and it was anticipated by theproprietors that the first cargo would be shipped to Swansea, England, this year. Smelting works will eventually be built at the mines, or at ColoradoCity, opposite Fort Yuma, and the profits of this company must be verygreat. The vicinity of the Colorado, and the abundance of wood andwater, give the proprietors facilities for conducting their operationsat small cost. Silver mining is also carried on in the vicinity of Mesilla Valley, andnear the Rio Grande. Many other mining operations are constantly beingcommenced; but the depredations of the Apache Indians have almostentirely snatched success from the hard-working miner, who, besideslosing his all, is often massacred in some ferocious manner. No protection, either civil or military, is extended over the greaterportion of Arizona. This checks the development of all herresources--not only to her own injury, but that of California and theAtlantic States--by withholding a market for their productions, and thebullion which she is fully able to supply to an extent corresponding tothe labor employed in obtaining it. A. B. Gray, Esq. , late U. S. Surveyor under the treaty of GuadalupeHidalgo, for running the Mexican Boundary, and subsequently ExploringEngineer and Surveyor of the Southern Pacific Railroad, has probablyseen more of the proposed Territory of Arizona than any other person, his statements in reference to that region, embodied in a report to theHon. , the Secretary of the Interior, from actual field reconnoissancessix years ago, will be read with much interest, particularly as sincethen, repeated developments in that country have proved the correctnessof his judgment; his opinions are, therefore, of much importance, asexpressed in his able report. It will be recollected that this was thenMexican Territory. Colonel Gray says: "The public, I think have been misled by misrepresentations made inregard to the resources of the region of country lying along the Gilaand upon the line proposed for a railroad at or near the parallel of 32degrees north latitude. That portion of country east of the Rio GrandeI can say but little of from personal observation, having been over butapart of the ground near the eastern division in Texas, and that in thevicinity of El Paso. At both these points, however, a fine countryexists. Upon the Gila river grows cotton of the most superior kind. Itsnature is not unlike that of the celebrated Sea Island cotton, possessing an equally fine texture, and, if anything, more of a silkyfibre. The samples I procured at the Indian villages, from the rudelycultivated fields of the Pimas and Maricopas, have been spoken of as anextraordinary quality. Wheat, corn, and tobacco, together with beans, melons, etc. , grow likewise upon the banks and in the valleys borderingthe Gila and its tributaries. The sugar cane, too, I believe, will befound to thrive in this section of the country west of the Rio SanPedro. A sort of candied preserve and molasses, expressed from thefruit of the cereus giganteus and agave Americana was found by ourparty in 1851, as we passed through the Pinal Llano camps and among theGila tribes, to be most acceptable. The candied preserve was a mostexcellent substitute for sugar. It is true that there are extensivewastes to be encountered west of the Rio Grande, yet they are notdeserts of sand, but plains covered at certain seasons of the year withluxuriant grass, exhibiting green spots and springs not very remotefrom each other at all times. There is sufficient water in the Gila andits branches for all the purposes of irrigation when it is wanted, thestreams being high during the season most needed. The Rio Salado, atributary of the Gila, is a bold and far more beautiful river than theGila itself, and, from the old ruins now seen there, must have hadformerly a large settlement upon its banks. "To many persons merelytravelling or emigrating across the country, with but one object inview, and that the reaching their destination on the Pacific, thecountry would generally present a barren aspect. But it will berecollected that the most productive fields in California, beforeAmerican enterprise introduced the plough, and a different mode ofcultivation from that of the natives of the country, presented somewhatsimilar appearance. Many believed, at first, from the cold and sterilelook of the hills, and the parched appearance of the fields andvalleys, over which the starving coyote is often seen prowling insearch of something to subsist on, that California could never becomean agricultural district, but must depend upon her other resources forgreatness, and trust to distant regions for the necessaries of liferequired for her increased population. It was natural enough, too, thatthis impression should be created in those accustomed to a differentState of things, and particularly when it is considered that the veryseason of blossom and bloom of our Atlantic States was the winter ofCalifornia; but these same fields and hills have a very differentappearance in January, February, and March, clothed as they are in thebrightest verdure and no one now will pretend to say that Californiadoes not possess within herself great agricultural as well as mineralwealth. This, I believe, will some day be the case with the countryfrom the Rio Grande to the Gulf of California, adjacent to the Gila. Senate Ex. Doc. No. 55, 33rd Congress, 2nd Session. " * * * * * * * * In speaking of the resources of this region for a railroad, in the samereport, Gray says: "The valley of Mesilla, extending from about twelve miles above thetrue boundary of the treaty to the parallel of 32 degrees 22 minutesnorth latitude, lies wholly within the disputed district, and is, forits extent, one of the most beautiful and fertile along the wholecourse of the Rio Grande. The town of Mesilla, only a few years old, contains several thousand people, and is a prosperous little place. Itwas not settled until after the cession of this territory to us by thetreaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo. Portions of the valley are highlycultivated, and produce the grains and fruits of our most thrivingStates. In connexion with the land on the east side of the river, thevalley of the Messilla is capable of sustaining a considerablepopulation. It is situated centrally with regard to a large district ofcountry of lesser agricultural capacity. The section of the Rio Grandein the vicinity of El Paso and the valley of Mesilla, is proverbial forthe production of fine vegetables and fruits. Indeed, about El Paso, itis a complete garden with flourishing vineyards, equalling inexcellence those of the most celebrated grape growing countries. "By a judicious disposition of military stations along this line, onlya few troops would be required to protect the great northern frontierof Sonora and Chihuahua, and enable us to carry out the 11th article ofour late treaty with Mexico more effectually, and at the same timeprevent any depredations which the Indians might be disposed to commiton the road. Soon after, the settlement of the country would make thepresence of the military unnecessary, either for the safety of arailway of the security of the frontier. The strong holds of theApaches, and their pathway to Mexico, would be cut off. "A wagon road established from the Gulf of California would enablesupplies to be transported along this line at one-half of the presentcost. The saving of one-third or more distance, through a comparativelyunsettled country, in transportation is an important consideration inthe construction of a railway, more especially when men and materials, to a great extent, must be brought from very remote points. Thenavigation of the Gulf of California is said to be very good. Thetrade-winds from the northwest, encountering the highlands of thepeninsula of Lower California, and forming a counter current under itslee, enable sailing vessels to proceed advantageously along that coast. Returning, by keeping on the eastern aide, or along the shore ofSonora, they could avail themselves of the prevailing winds, whichregain their usual direction after sweeping across the wide expanse ofwater. The trade of the Gulf, with its pearl fisheries and otherresources, would be speedily developed. * * * * * * * * "The advantages of such a thoroughfare are obvious. Five years wouldhardly elapse before inestimable benefits would be realized; and, should war threaten our Pacific possessions, a few days would sufficeto send from the Mississippi valley an army that would defy any forcethat the most formidable power could array against us. The fine cottonregion of the Gila, the rich copper, silver, and gold mines of NewMexico and Sonora would be at once developed, bringing a vast districtof country into cultivation which now presents a fruitless waste, owingto Indian depredations and the absence of means of communication andprotection. Mexico has tried for a century past to insure safety to herinhabitants in this region, but notwithstanding the expense she hasincurred in keeping up her garrisons, she has failed to afford themprotection. "The deserted appearance of the country from El Paso to the Colorado isno criterion by which to judge of its value. The beautiful valley ofSan Xavier, or Santa Cruz, some two years ago when I passed through it, was entirely deserted. The once thriving towns of Tumacacori and Tubachad not the sign of a living soul about them except the recent moccasintrack of the Apaches. The orchards and vineyards of the once highlycultivated fields and gardens bore the marks of gradual decay anddestruction. The ranchos of Calabazas, of San Bernardino, and numerousother places on this frontier, presented the same melancholy aspect, the result of the inability of Mexico to protect this portion ofterritory from the inroads of the savages. There are now but a fewsettlements throughout this district of country, but were it protectedby a power that could and would defend it, what is now a waste in thehands of the savages might become a thriving country, with safetyinsured to its inhabitants. " Senate Ex. Doc. No. 55, 33rd Congress, 2ndSess. I quote the following language of Gray, from subsequent explorationsmade by him, three years after his first expedition, and contained inhis report to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. It was chieflyfrom the discoveries made by Gray, in this adventurous expedition, through regions unknown for many years past, between the Rio Grande andGulf of California, together with the Gadsden Treaty, that inducedparties at great expense to emigrate there, and commence working thevast mineral deposites, such as the Arabac silver mines, the Ajo coppermountain, and others, but which, through lack of proper protection andmeans of communication, have been greatly retarded in their development. After crossing the dividing ridge of the continent west of the RioGrande, Gray thus alludes to the country: "There were large haciendas and fine cattle ranches in thisneighborhood, until a war of extermination was declared by the Apachesagainst the Mexicans. Remains of the old San Pedro ranch are seen atthis day; also the "Tres Alamos;" and the ruins of the hacienda ofBabacomeri, whose walls and towers are still standing. These were amongthe wealthiest of Sonora in horses, cattle, sheep, etc. , but it hasbeen many years since. It is a fine grazing region, with wild cattleand mustangs constantly seen roaming over the plains. The district fromSan Pedro to Santa Cruz valley, nearly due west from our presentcrossing (latitude 31 degrees 34 minutes), will be to the Pacific slopewhat the region of Fort Chadbourne, in Texas, will be to the Atlantic. The mountains and hills are covered with splendid timber of the largestsize, and for all purposes; and the valleys are full of springs, andthe finest grass. To Tubac, a town in the valley of Santa Cruz, it is69 miles. This is by following the San Pedro about a league, passingover a few insignificant spurs, and ascending the Rio Babacomeri;thence continuing westward by a gradual rise over delightful plains tothe divide between that and the Sonoita or Clover creek, and along thelatter, until it loses itself in the porous earth, a mile from theSanta Cruz river, and by the broad valley of that stream to Tubac. " * * * * * * * * Of the line of Gray's exploration from the Rio San Pedro, he says: "It passes through the most desirable region, with the hills andmountains for forty miles, containing inexhaustible quantities oftimber. We noticed tall cedar and oaks of every description; one kindmore interesting than the others, being a white oak from twenty toforty feet in the body. Pine and spruce, with superior white ash andwalnut, were found, and the most gigantic cotton-woods, particularly onthe Sonoita. * * * * "The mountains in the neighborhood are filled withminerals, and the precious metals are said to abound. The famousPlanchas de Plata and Arizona silver mines, which the Count Raouset deBoulbon attempted to take possession of, are in this section ofcountry, not many miles below the present limits, and at several of theold ranchos and deserted mining villages which we visited, were foundthe argentiferous galena ore and gold. The Sierra Santa Rita runs alongto the east of the Santa Cruz valley, and forms a part of thisinteresting region. It is very high and bold, filled with fertilevalleys and flowing rivulets, and covered with a dense growth oftimber. I saw much of this district, when here in 1851, on the surveyof the boundary. " * * * * * * * * The country bordering immediately the head of the Gulf of California, through which Gray was probably the first to penetrate, lies adjacentto the proposed Arizona Territory, but not a part of the same, being aportion of the State of Sonora. He thus describes that section: "The Indians represent rich Placers existing throughout this region, and large numbers of them had lately come in with considerablequantities of the dust. They were trading it for trifles to theMexicans. I got some specimens of it which was the same as theCalifornia Gold. This was not the time of year (June) for them to workthe mines, but in the fall, after the rain has commenced. The greatestdrawback to the profitable working of the Placers of this district, isthe scarcity of water. If artesian wells succeed, there is little doubtthat it will create an important change. West from Tuseon and Tubac, towards the Gulf of California, the country presents more theappearance of a barren waste or desert than any district I have seen. It nevertheless has occasional oases, with fine grazing lands aboutthem, and the mountains, which are more broken and detached, havedistinct marks of volcanic origin. The ranges though short, havegenerally the same parallel direction as those further east. It is thecountry of the Papago Indians, a peaceful and friendly tribe, extendingdown to the Gulf coast, where they are mixed up somewhat with theCocopas of the Colorado. From Sonoita I explored to the Gulf shore, near the mouth of Adair Bay. It was 62 miles, following a dry arroyamost of the way, and the point at which I struck the Gulf was inlatitude 31 degrees 36 minutes 34 minutes. The "Bay" is about 15 milesacross, and from all I could learn, 15 miles long, and represented ashaving four fathoms of water. It is completely encircled by a range ofsand hills, reaching north-west to the Colorado river and south-east asfar as the eye could discover. These "sables" are probably eighty orninety miles in extent, by five to ten broad. "Notwithstanding it appears to be the most desolate and forlorn-lookingspot for eighty miles around the head of the Gulf, the sand hillslooking like a terrible desert, nature seems even here, where no rainhad fallen for eight months, to have provided for the sustenance ofman, one of the most nutritious and palatable vegetables. "East of the Tinaja Alta or high tank range, lie the famous Sierras delAjo, now United States territory. These mountains derive their namefrom the vast deposits of red oxide and green carbonate of copper foundabout them, and which the Indians have made use of to paint (ajo)themselves with. The mines are unquestionably of great value, and mustbecome important, more particularly from their being situated in theneighborhood of the contemplated railway. The tall Cereus Giganteus andAgave Americana are found in abundance. From the latter plant thenatives make the pulque, mezcal and agua-diente; and the petahaya orcereus, produces a fruit from which is made a very pleasant preserve. At the Pimo and Maricopa villages are found wheat, corn, tobaco, andcotton, besides melons, pumpkins, beans, etc. The nature of the soilfor great distances in the Gila valley is of a reddish loam; some partscoated with a beautiful crystallization of salt, a quarter to half aninch thick. This seems to be more particularly the case below theMaricopa villages and toward the Rio Salado. The cotton, of which Iprocured specimens, though cultivated by the Indians in the mostprimitive manner, exhibited a texture not unlike the celebrated SeaIsland cotton. Its fibre is exceedingly soft and silky, but not of thelongest staple. Large tracts of land on the Gila and in other portionsof this district, appear to possess the same properties of soil; andwhere, I have no doubt, the finest cotton will soon be extensivelyraised and brought to its highest state of perfection by propercultivation. " The climate is thus referred to by Gray: "One of the most favorable features upon the route in the vicinity ofthe 32nd degree proposed for the Pacific railway is, its accessibilityat all times, admitting of labor being performed in the open air ateach season. The nature of the climate through Texas to the Rio Grandehas already been referred to, and from thence to the Santa Cruz valleyhalf way to the Colorado, over the elevated plateau of the SierraMadra, it is equally salubrious and temperate. The rainy season fallsin the summer months, and but seldom is snow seen even upon themountain tops. Towards the Colorado river it is much drier and moretorrid, but by no means unhealthy; nor does it prevent out door workthe whole of the day during the heated term of summer. "The great riches of the country, however, are a total waste at thepresent time, but which the Pacific railroad will at once develop, andmake to itself the foundation of a vast revenue. I refer to itsmetallic wealth, the silver, gold, and copper mines that abound inalmost every mountain and valley, between the Rio Grande and the Gulfof California. "The ores of Chihuahua and Sonora [now Arizona. S. M. ] are chieflysulphuret (lead or iron), or native silver in porphyritic or stratifiedlimestone rocks passing at greater depths into igneous rocks. Fromloose piles lying upon the surface and evidently picked over, Iprocured specimens of silver and copper. Three samples representingpoints on the line of our exploration about equi-distant from eachother, viz. : the Rio Grande, the neighborhood of Tubac, and within 90miles of the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, were submittedto Dr. I. K. Chilton, of New York, for analysis. He found in one sampleof lead ore (argentiferous galena), by fire assay 71 per cent. Of lead, and the "LEAD YIELDED SILVER EQUIVALENT to 128 ounces, 1 dwt. To theton" (of 2000 pounds). "In another, he found the lead obtained from it to yield silver in theproportion of 72 ounces 5 dwts. To the ton or 2000 pounds. "The copper specimen was the red oxide, and yielded as follows: Copper, . . . . . . . . . . . . 71. 80 Iron, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7. 84 Oxygen, . . . . . . . . . . . . 12. 34 Silicia, Alumina, . . 8. 02 ------ 100 parts. "The Papagos and Pimas Indians, by proper management, might be madevery useful, in working upon the road where there is not much rockexcavation. They are unlike the Indians of Texas, or the Apaches, living in villages and cultivating the soil, besides manufacturingblankets, baskets, pottery, etc. Quiet and peaceable, they have nofears except from their enemies, the Apaches, and are very industrious, much more so than the lower order of Mexicans, and live far morecomfortably. It is astonishing with what precision they construct theiracequias--irrigating canals--some of them, the acequias madre, of verylarge size, and without the use of levelling apparatus, but simply bythe eye. Their gardens and farms too are regularly ditched and fencedoff into rectangles and circles, with hedges and trees planted as ifdone by more enlightened people. " The population of the new Territory of Arizona is at present not farfrom eight thousand, and is rapidly increasing. The Mesilla Valley andthe Rio Grande are probably the most thickly populated, containingabout five thousand people. A majority of the Mesilla inhabitants areMexicans, but they will be controlled by the American residents, whosenumber and influence is constantly on the increase. The Santa CruzValley, in which are situated the towns of Tueson, Tubac, Tumacacari, and the mining settlement of Sopori and others, is, next to Mesilla, the most thickly settled. Tueson was formerly a town of three thousandinhabitants; but the majority have been driven off by the ApacheIndians. It is fast becoming a thriving American town, and will beforelong be a place of more importance than ever before. Real estate isalready held at high rates, and the erection of buildings shows thatAmerican energy is about to change the face of the last half century. Tubac had been completely deserted by the Mexicans. It has beenreoccupied by the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company, and now boasts apopulation of several hundred. The Calabazas valley is also fastfilling up with an American population, and another year will see thewhole centre of the Territory dotted with settlements. Many of the fineclaims on the San Pedro River have already been located by emigrantsunder the general pre-emption law, but until protection is afforded tothe settlers, but little progress will be made in agriculturalpursuits. The Apache Indian regards the soil as his own, and havingexpelled the Spanish and Mexican invader, he feels little inclinationto submit to the American. A small settlement of Americans is growingup at Colorado city, opposite Fort Yuma, at the junction of the Gilaand Colorado rivers. This point is destined to be one of greatcommercial and pecuniary importance. Situated at the present head ofnavigation, at the point where the overland mail route crosses theColorado, and where the Southern Pacific Railroad must bridge thestream, it is a necessary stopping place for all travel across thecountry. Here are transhipped all the ores coming from the Territory, which find their way to market down the Colorado to the Gulf ofCalifornia, thence by steamer or sailing vessel to their destination. Here all supplies of merchandise for the Territory are landed, and fromthis point forwarded to their various owners. A thriving commerce hasalready sprung up between Arizona and San Francisco. In almost anydaily paper in San Francisco may be seen vessels advertised for themouth of the Colorado. Two steamers find active employment intransporting government stores from the head of the Gulf of Californiato Fort Yuma, and goods to Colorado city for the merchants of Tueson, Tubac, Calabazas, and for the mining companies. Should the explorationof the Upper Colorado by Lieutenant Ives, United States Army, now inprogress, prove successful, Colorado city will become still moreimportant, as the surplus products of the rich valleys of New Mexico, Utah, and California to the north, will all find a market down theColorado. Property in this new city is held at high rates, and by thelast San Francisco News Letter is quoted at an advance. The populationof Arizona Territory has much increased within a few months byemigration from California. The massacre of Henry A. Crabbe and hisparty by the Mexicans at Cavorca created a desire for revengethroughout all California. Companies have been formed, and largeparties are settling in Arizona, near the Mexican line, with theulterior object of overrunning Sonora, and revenging the tragedy inwhich was shed some of the best blood of the State. The appropriationby the last Congress of two hundred thousand dollars for theconstruction of a wagon road from El Paso to Fort Yuma, and the twomail contracts, semi-monthly and semi-weekly, which involve anexpenditure of nine hundred thousand dollars per annum, will affordemployment to a host of people, and draw at once to the neighborhood ofthe route an active and energetic population. The new wagon and mailroute traverses the Territory of Arizona throughout its entire length. Along the mail route, at intervals, military posts will be established. These and the necessary grazing stations will create points aroundwhich settlements will at once grow up, and the country, now bare, willshow everywhere thriving villages. The Southern Pacific Railroad, whichwill be built because it is necessary to the country, will find its wayeasily through Arizona. It is no exaggeration to say that the mining companies, in their owninterest, will be forced to subscribe enough to the stock of thecompany to insure its success. The Arizona Copper Mining Company is nowpaying $100 per ton for the transportation of its ores from the minesto Colorado city. One year's freight money at this rate would buildmany miles of the road. The silver mining companies will be only tooglad to get their ores to market at so cheap a rate, as theirproportion of the subscription to the railroad. Iron and coal are bothfound in the Territory, --the former especially in great abundance. Texas has guaranteed the road to El Paso, by her generous legislation;Arizona will build it, with her mineral wealth, to Fort Yuma, theeastern boundary of California, and California will do the rest. Thefirst terminus of the Southern Pacific Railroad will doubt less be onthe Gulf of California, at the Island of Tiburon, or more probablyGuyamas. A steam ferry across the Gulf, a short railroad across thepeninsula of Lower California to a secure harbor on the Pacific, (wherea steamer will take passengers and freight in four days to SanFrancisco, ) is the most natural course of this route. In view of thisprobability, all the available points for such a terminus on the Gulfhave been, or are in progress of being, secured by capitalists, eitherby obtaining grants from the Mexican Government, or by purchase fromprivate individuals. Already Guyamas is owned in great part by Englishand American capitalists. A port on the Gulf of California is necessaryto our Pacific possessions, and must be ours sooner or later. Thelonger it is delayed, the worse for American progress on the Pacific. Arizona needs it at once, as a depot for the export of her ores, andfor the import of goods for the supply of her population. The Mormon war has closed for years the great emigrant road toCalifornia and Oregon, over the South Pass and Salt Lake valley, leaving open only the route along the 32d parallel of latitude, throughArizona. This route is by far the most practicable at all seasons ofthe year, and the closing of the South Pass route by the Mormondifficulty is an additional and urgent argument in favor of the earlyorganization of this Territory. Fifty thousand souls will move towardsthe Pacific early in the spring, if the route is opened to a securepassage. The present condition of Arizona Territory is deplorable in theextreme. Throughout the whole country there is no redress for crimes orcivil injuries--no courts, no law, no magistrates. The Territory of NewMexico, to which it is attached by an act of Congress, affords itneither protection nor sustenance. The following extracts from lettersreceived by the writer tell the story of the necessity for early actionon the part of Congress, in urgent terms. TUBAC, GADSDEN PURCHASE, August 15, 1857. Affairs in the Territory have not improved. A party of Americans (ourcountrymen) had made an "excursion" into Sonora, captured a train ofmules, and killed several Mexicans. Upon their return to the Territorywith their ill-gotten booty, the citizens formed a company and took theproperty away from them, and returned it to the owners in Magdalena, [atown of Sonora--Ed. ] and delivered the robbers up to Major Steen, commanding first dragoons, to be held in custody until Courts should beorganized. They have again been turned loose upon the community. Injustice to Major Fitzgerald I must say he was in favor of retainingthem in custody, and has generally maintained favoring law and order inthe Territory, but as he is only second in command he has no absoluteauthority. We have no remedy but to follow the example so wide spread in theUnion, and form a "Vigilance Committee"--contrary to all good morals, law, order, and society. Can you do nothing to induce the government toestablish authority and law in this country, and avert this unhappyalternative? It is not desired by any good citizens, and tends to anarchy andmobocracy, causing disloyalty in our own citizens and bringing thereproach of foreigners upon our republican institutions. It isimpossible to progress in developing the resources of the country underthis state of affairs. The greatest objection the capitalists of SanFrancisco have to aiding me in the development of silver mines, is theinsecurity of property, want of protection from government, and generaldistrust of fair and honest legislation. They have no confidence that the guarantees of the GADSDEN TREATY willbe respected by the United States, in regard to land titles under theMexican government. The silver ore brought to San Francisco from our mines, has been testedby a dozen different officers, in as many different ways, and no resultfalls BELOW FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS PER TON OF ORE. Senator Gwin goes on to Washington soon, and will corroborate mystatements. He has a piece of the silver, the first smelted in SanFrancisco, showing $8, 735 20--EIGHT THOUSAND SEVEN HUNDRED ANDTHIRTY-FIVE 20-100 DOLLARS PER TON OF ORE. Mr. Dunbar is getting thepetition to Congress signed--and moving in the affairs of the Territoryin connection with Mr. Ehrenberg and our friends--but the governmentcame near "crushing us out" by sending a Custom House Collector toconsume and destroy what little we had saved from the Apaches. Cannothing be done to rid us of a Custom House? It is no protection. TheTerritory (as yet) produces nothing but minerals--and we have to payduty upon every article of consumption. This is a very onerous tax uponour first feeble efforts to develop the resources of this remote andunprotected country. Very truly yours, C. D. Poston. To Lieut. Mowry, U. S. A. , Washington, D. C. "We are living without the protection of law or the ameliorations ofsociety. New Mexico affords us no protection. We have not even receivedan order for election. Every one goes armed to the teeth, and adifficulty is sure to prove fatal. In this state of affairs it isimpossible to hold a convention. " Tueson, Oct. 1, 1857. We are pleased to hear that the prospect for Arizona is so bright. Ifyou should succeed in getting a separate organization for Arizona, youwill lay the people under many obligations to you. You have no doubtreceived many petitions for Congress, and also your certificate ofelection as delegate for this purchase. You received the entire vote;there was no difference of opinion among the voters. Your ob't serv't, J. A. Douglas. Lt. Mowry, U. S. A. Tucson, Oct. 25, 1857. I send you the last petition from the Territory. The work is now inyour hands, and we say, God speed it. G. H. Oury. Tueson, Arizona Territory, Oct. 17, 1857. Every thing begins to look up in the Territory notwithstanding thedifficulties we labor under. The Indians the other day came withineight hundred yards of Fort Buchanan and remained some time, and whenthey left carried off with them all the horses and mules in the valleyfor six or eight miles below. Try your hand in this matter of ourTerritory, and see if some change cannot be wrought to some benefit--weneed it greatly. Very truly yours, G. H. Oury. Tueson, Oct. 2, 1857. We have heard from Mesilla and they fully concur with us in all we havedone, showing that you are the person chosen to act for them and torepresent their interest in this matter. The people here are very muchelated at the turn things are taking, and every one seems to be highlypleased with the course you have pursued. An election was held on thefirst Monday in September, at which you received all the votes given, and a certificate of your election, signed by the judges and clerks, has been forwarded to you. The country is being settled very fast, andthere is somewhat of a stir to obtain cultivated lands. The landsalready under cultivation are now fifty per cent. Higher than a shorttime back. The great misfortune we labor under is want of protection. Thousands and thousands of acres of land, as rich and fertile as any onthe face of the globe, lie idle and useless because they are notprotected from the Apaches. We want only one thing besides theTerritorial organization, and that is PROTECTION. Very truly yours, S. Warner. Oct. 8, 1857. The guerilla warfare on the Sonora frontier continues with increasedaggravation. We look for the happiest result from the exploration ofthis interesting region of the Colorado, about to be explored by Lieut. Ives, U. S. A. The ores from the Heintzelman mine took the premium atthe mechanics' fair in San Francisco, just closed, where the ores fromCalifornia and the western coast were on exhibition. So, Arizona leadsCalifornia, the great mineral State. All we need is good government and honest, liberal legislation to makeArizona equal in production of precious metals, if not exceed, California. Yours truly, C. D. Poston. Lt. Mowry, U. S. A. Fort Yuma, June 2, 1857. News has just come in from the Arizona which represent an awful stateof affairs. During the time Mr. Belknap was below at Sonora it wasunsafe for him to go out unless accompanied by his friend, DonGaudaloupe Orosco, and even then it was very dangerous. No news fromSonora nor even an arrival for the last twenty days. God knows what isgoing on; though of one thing we are certain--no American, never mindwhatsoever he may be, can go into Sonora, with or without a passport. Very sincerely yours, P. R. Brady. Aug. 5, 1850. The condition of the purchase has been extremely bad since theunfortunate and injudicious expedition of Crabbe into Sonora, and atthe present time is but little better than a field of guerilla warfare, robbery and plunder. The exasperated state of feeling between the Mexicans and Americansprevents intercourse and commerce, upon which the Territory isdependent. Americans are afraid to venture into Sonora for supplies, and Mexicans afraid to venture over the line. Americans who had nothingto do with the fillibustering invasion have been treated badly inSonora and driven out of the country, and Mexicans coming into thepurchase with supplies and animals have been robbed and plundered bythe returned fillibusters. The Americans in the Territory are by no means harmonious on thesesubjects--some in favor of filibustering and others opposed to it; somein favor of murdering and robbing Mexicans wherever found, and othersopposed to it. It results that we are in a state of anarchy, and there is nogovernment, no protection to life, property, or business; no law and noself-respect or morality among the people. We are living in a perfectstate of nature, without the restraining influence of civil or militarylaw, or the amelioration of society. There have not been many conflicts and murders, because every man goesarmed to the teeth, and a difficulty is always fatal on one side or theother. In the midst of all this, the Government has blessed us with acustom house at Calabazos to collect duties upon the necessaries oflife which, by chance and "running the gauntlet, " we may get fromSonora. God send that we had been left alone with the Apaches. We should havebeen a thousand times better off in every respect. In this state of affairs it is scarcely to be expected that the peoplewill meet together in a convention; there was no arrangement for thatpurpose up to the time of my leaving, and none could be made. We have never had any orders of election from Santa Fe, nor heard ofany convention. Yours truly, C. D. Poston. Major Fitzgerald, U. S. A. , whose long experience on the Pacific coastmakes his opinion very valuable, in a letter dated Fort Buchanan, Arizona, Sept. 17th, 1854, says: "The citizens of this country are very desirous of a territorialorganization, with its courts, &c. Murders are committed and stock isstolen by white men with impunity. There is no court nearer than theRio Grande (300 miles) to take cognizance of crime. Some few of theemigrants of this year have remained in the Santa Cruz valley. Morewould have done so, no doubt, if they had not started from the Statesoriginally with stock for the California market. The country around us is now beautiful. It has been raining almostdaily since the 1st of July, and the vegetation is most luxuriant. Manyof the Mexican citizens come over the line for purposes of trade, bringing flour, fruit, and leather. If there was no custom house atCalabazas, these articles could be had very cheaply. We have very excellent gardens, and plenty of vegetables. There is saidto be a good deal of cultivable land on the upper Gila, and if aterritory is created, it should embrace this. This would also include alarge part of the Colorado valley above the junction of the Gila. Thatyou may succeed in your wishes with regard to Arizona, is the sinceredesire of Your friend and obliged serv't, E. H. Fitzgerald. " Lt. Mowry, U. S. A. A subsequent letter from Major Fitzgerald dated Oct. 1st, says Tuesoncontains rising five hundred inhabitants, the remainder of the SantaCruz altogether enough to make considerable over a thousand, independent of the population towards and upon the Gila and Colorado, of which he remarks, "You know more than I. " "There is not a doubt but that upon thelocation of the mail route, there will be a considerable emigration tothis country, and if a portion of Sonora be organized, large numberswill come both from the East and West. The country is an excellent onefor stock of all kinds, of which there were great numbers where theApaches were gathered under the wing of the Catholic church. Thevalleys of Santa Cruz, San Pedro, and Upper Gila, and also that ofMessilla, contain large bodies of productive lands, and all the cerealsgrow luxuriantly therein. THAT THERE IS MUCH SILVER IN THE TERRITORYTHERE IS NO DOUBT, but it requires capital to develop it. As yet butlittle progress has been made in mining. Evidences of old works areseen on many of the water courses, but operations have not yet beenrecommenced, except at Arizona, Sopori, and Ariaola, principallybecause the country is very partially settled, and it is not safe to beat any distance from the mass of the population, and the troops. Copperore is found in many localities, but little gold is yet discovered. Ifthe road from El Paso to Fort Yuma be located by Parke's route, as manysuppose, A FINE COUNTRY WILL BE OPENED on the Gila and Lower San Pedro, which will produce ample supplies. The Territory presents nodifficulties of importance to the successful establishment of the road. Frequent stations and PROPER PROTECTION ARE ONLY REQUISITE TO ENSURESUCCESS AS COMPLETELY AS THE MOST SANGUINE ANTICIPATE. Should Sonora, or even a portion of it be organized, this will be one of the mostpleasant localities of our country. A delightful climate, plenty offine fruit, facility of supply by a port on the Pacific, semi-weeklymails from the east and west, --are only some of the attractions whichit would possess. Sonora is quiet. Many of the wealthy men there are in favor ofannexation, it is said, but they have to keep silent on the subject forfear of noisy patriots, who would proclaim them traitors at once, ifthey made a parade of their inclinations. The San Antonio and San Deigomail passes through Tueson once a fortnight, and seems to have met withno important obstacle yet. A drove of mules accompanies it, which areharnessed in turn. When regular stations are established its speed willbe much increased. My last letter was not written with a view of theuse being made of it you mentioned, yet if it answers a good purpose, Ihave no objection. It was but a careless note, but its contents weretruths, nevertheless. " (This note demonstrated the facility of supplyfor the Territory from the Pacific. ) "Most truly your friend, (Signed, ) E. H. Fitzgerald. " Tubac, Gadsden's Purchase, 22d Oct. , 1857. "We have of late been seriously annoyed by the Apaches. Nearly all theanimals belonging to the citizens residing around Fort Buchanan havebeen driven off by the Apaches. They are very impudent, and committheir depredations in broad day-light, talk to the people while theyare driving off the animals, and always escape without being molested. The other day they came within 800 yards of the Fort and looked downupon it. In order to bring them to terms the Government ought to enlist 1000Pinos and Papagos to accompany the military. Indians are the onlypersons who can successfully traverse these mountains and hunt up theirhiding places. If this is not done, they will surely break up oursettlements here. Forts ought to be established in the very heart ofthe Apache country, in the places fit, and used by them forcultivation. If this is done we will soon bring them to terms. Until now, our mining establishments have not been molested by them, and we are going on in high glee. This is undoubtedly the richestsilver mining country in the world. If the United States will make justand liberal laws for us; give us protection; remove those trifling andunprofitable custom houses on the frontier, at least for 5 or 6 years;procure us a transit through Sonora to Guaymas, and hasten along therail-road to California, this will indeed be a prosperous country, andwill astonish the world with its production of silver and copper. Butwith such terrible obstacles as those mentioned above and the greatlength of transit to transport goods over the roads which we have totake at present, progress only is possible for such as find mines ofthe extraordinary and incredible richness of the Heintzelman vein. Ifthe present promises of few of these mines are realized, by workingthem on a scale commensurate with their extent and richness, I have nodoubt but that they will equal in production the whole silver exportsof Mexico. I think an appropriation ought to be made to sink artesian wellsthrough the Papagos country, between San Xavier and the lower Gila. This route cuts off about 100 miles from the best route via the Pinosvillages. It is laid down on my map, as a rail-road route, now at theoffice of the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company, at Cincinnati, Ohio. The country consists of a succession of plains and isolated mountainridges, none of which need to be crossed. In fact it is a dead level toFort Yuma, and, in consequence, no grading is necessary. There isscarcity of water, but the soil in general is excellent and grassabounds all along the line, while the mountains teem with minerals ofthe richest description. The oxides and the sulphurets of copper arethe most beautiful and richest in the world. Silver undoubtedly existsof equal richness. All the foothills contain gold, but I hardly think it will be extractedby the whites, as the localities are devoid of water, and they are notprobably rich enough to pay without sluicing on an extensive scale. " I am, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, Herman Ehrenberg. To Lieut. S. Mowry, U. S. A. , Delegate elect from Arizona, Washington, D. C. The only comment the writer has to make upon these statements is, thattwo years' residence among and acquaintance with the people of Arizona, has convinced him of their absolute truth. At the last session ofCongress a petition was presented, praying for a separate Territorialorganization. The necessity for some legislation was admitted by bothSenate and House; and bills creating a separate judicial district andland offices, passed both Houses, but owing to some minor differencesand the lateness of the session, the bills failed to become a law. With an increased population and prolonged grievances, the people ofArizona are again about to present themselves as supplicants for thatright inherent in the American heart--the right of self-government--andof protection under the law. Their petition sets forth in brief, plainterms, their situation and necessities, and prays simply for aseparation from New Mexico and a Territorial organization under thename of Arizona. As a matter of necessity for the successful carriageof the mail across the country, this Territorial organization isimperative. No contract for labor or supplies can be enforced in thepresent condition of the country. Courts of law must be established, with officers to enforce their mandates, or the contractors will beutterly unable to carry out their contract. The great necessity of a safe and speedy overland communication withthe Pacific, has directed public attention to the organization ofArizona as a separate Territory, and the desired legislation hasreceived the unanimous endorsement of the press of the whole country. Petitions with thousands of signatures from leading citizens of themajority of the states of the Union, will be presented to Congressasking for the immediate organization of the new Territory as the bestmeans to at once open a highway to the Pacific; and so important hasthis view of the question been deemed as to call from the President ofthe United States a recommendation in his message to Congress. Noopposition has been made to the most just prayer of the people ofArizona, and it is believed that none will be made, unless it comesfrom New Mexico. It must be born in mind that the Gadsden Purchase wasnot originally an integral part of New Mexico; that it was acquiredyears after the treaty of Gaudaloupe Hidalgo, and was only attached tothe territory of New Mexico as a temporary expedient. It must also beremembered that the Gadsden Purchase, with the portion of New Mexicowhich it is proposed to include within the limits of the territory ofArizona, is separated from New Mexico proper by natural boundaries;that it derives no benefit from the present connection, and that anyopposition to the desired legislation arises from the Mexicanpopulation, which fears the influence of a large American emigration. Moreover, that New Mexico contains upwards of 200, 000 square miles, andthat its organic act provides for its partition; showing clearly thatCongress anticipated, at no remote day, the settlement of the countryby an American population, and its erection into several territoriesand states. The only effect of the present connection of Arizona withNew Mexico is to crush out the voice and sentiment of the Americanpeople in the territory; and years of emigration, under presentauspices, would not serve to counterbalance or equal the influence ofthe 60, 000 Mexican residents of New Mexico. New Mexico has neverencouraged American population. She is thoroughly Mexican in sentiment, and desires to remain so. As a matter of State policy, the organization of Arizona is of thefirst importance. Situated between New Mexico and Sonora, it ispossible now to make it a thoroughly American State, which willconstantly exert its influence in both directions, to nationalize theother two. New Mexico is at present thoroughly Mexican in its characterand vote. Sonora, if we acquire it at once, will be the same. Byseparating Arizona from it, and encouraging an American emigration, itwill become "the leaven which shall leaven the whole lump. " By allowingit to remain attached to New Mexico, or by attaching it to Sonora whenacquired, the American influence will be swallowed up in the greatpreponderance of the Mexican vote. The Apache Indian is preparingSonora for the rule of a higher civilization than the Mexican. In thepast half century, the Mexican element has disappeared from what is nowcalled Arizona, before the devastating career of the Apache. It isevery day retreating further South, leaving to us, when it is ripe forour possession, the territory without the population. The incentives to emigration to Arizona, in addition to the charm whichthe discovery of mineral wealth carries to every mind, are very great. The writer, in an extended tour through the Southern States, found manypeople, mostly young men of moderate means, ready and anxious toemigrate. The movement is still stronger in Southwestern States, andalready many a train of wagons is on its way. It will have no end foryears, for so mild and healthy is the climate that emigration ispracticable at all seasons. Snow never lies on the soil, and frost isalmost unknown. The contracts already authorized by Congress involvethe expenditure of six millions of dollars in the next six years; thetroops in the Territory will cost as much more. Here is enough money inhard sub-treasury coin, to draw a large population, independent ofother considerations. All ready in many places the enterprisingmerchant exposes his stock of goods only two months from San Francisco, but he does it with the prayer that the Apache may pass him by, and toooften he sees his hard-earned profits disappear before the Indian'ssuccessful foray. The establishment of a firm government in Arizona will extend theprotection of the United States over American citizens resident in theadjoining Mexican provinces. This protection is most urgently demanded. Englishmen in Sonora enjoy not only perfect immunity in the pursuit ofbusiness, but also encouragement. Americans are robbed openly byMexican officials, insulted, thrown into prison, and sometimes put todeath. No redress is ever demanded or received. This state of thingshas so long existed that the name of American has become a byword and areproach in northern Mexico, and the people of that frontier believethat we have neither the power nor the inclination to protect our owncitizens. The influence of a Territorial government, with the tide ofAmerican emigration which will surely follow it, must entirely changethe tone and temper of these Mexican States. The population of Arizona to-day, exceeds that of Washington Territory, and is far greater than was that of Minnesota, Kansas or Nebraska, atthe time of their organization. An election for a Delegate has beenheld, at which several hundred votes were polled, and the writerreturned without opposition. The unsettled and dangerous condition ofthe country prevented a convention being held, but letters have beenreceived from all parts of the Territory, expressing a heartyconcurrence in the election on the part of those unable to vote, and anearnest desire for the Territorial organization. A number of gentlemen at present in Washington, can testify from actualobservation, to the truth of the statements here made in reference toArizona--among them I am permitted to name General Anderson, late U. S. Senator from Tennessee, who almost alone, with rare perseverance andcourage, explored, in 1850, the whole length of the Territory, MajorHeintzelman, U. S. A. , whose long station at Fort Yuma made himacquainted with the resources of the country, and who has shown at oncehis intelligence and foresight and his faith in the prospective wealthof the silver region, by large investments of capital, Col. A. B. Gray, late U. S. Surveyor of the Mexican Boundary line, I. Smith McMicken, Esq. , whose residence for many years on the Mexican frontier hasentitled his opinion to some weight, and A. H. Campbell, Esq. , Superintendent of Wagon Roads, whose information is full and reliable. To these names it may not be improper to add that of the writer, whohas for two years past, while residing at the junction of the Gila andColorado Rivers, made the new Territory and its resources, an object ofconstant observation and study, and whose experience on the Pacificcoast, and in the frontier Territories, and on the route across thecontinent, during the past five years, has enabled him to speakunderstandingly of the capabilities and necessities of a new country, and of a frontier people. In five years a great State may be built upon this remote frontier, anda population gathered, such as will, when we make further acquisitionof territory, spread at once over it, diffusing national sentiment andextending the area of American principles. Aside from these considerations, justice and humanity, imperativelydemand that Congress shall bear and at once answer the prayer of thepeople of Arizona for protection. If these considerations fail, thenthey offer INTEREST; for the organization of the Territory is theguarantee of a supply of silver, which will create as great arevolution in the commercial world as has the gold of California. Arizona will be known as the silver State, and the prediction ofHumboldt, that the balance between gold and silver, destroyed by theCalifornia discoveries, would one day be restored, will be made good, from the resources of the Gadsden purchase. TO THE SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES IN CONGRESS ASSEMBLED: The undersigned, your humble petitioners, citizens of the UnitedStates, and residents of the Territory known as the Gadsden Purchase, respectfully represent: That since the annexation of their Territory to the United States, theyhave been totally unprotected from Indian depredations and civil crimes. That the protection of the Mexican Government has been with drawn, andthat it has not been replaced by any visible protection from the UnitedStates. That the annexation of the Purchase to New Mexico, carried with it noprotection for life or property. That the present force of United States troops, four companies ofdragoons, reduced by desertion and death to about one half, is entirelyinadequate to protect us against the depredations of the Apaches. That many of your petitioners have expended their time and means inopening and prospecting rich mines of Copper and Silver, and have beendriven from them by the Indians--losing their all, and also manyvaluable lives. That the Territory is immensely rich in minerals, especially Silver andCopper; and, as your petitioners most firmly believe, the developmentof these mines will make a change in the currency of the world, onlyequalled by that caused by the gold mines of California. That a great part of the Territory, between the Rio Grande and Tueson, is susceptible of cultivation and will support a large agriculturalpopulation. That this portion of the Territory is in the hands of the Apaches, anduseless, unless redeemed from their grasp and protected to the farmer. That the highways of the Territory are stained with the blood ofcitizens of the United States, shed by Indians and by public marauders, who commit their crimes in open day, knowing there is no law torestrain and no magistrate to arrest them. That this Territory, under a separate organization, would attract alarge population and become immediately developed: and, that itsisolation--its large Indian population--its proximity to asemi-civilized Mexican province, and its peculiar and wonderfulresources, demand protection from the Government more emphatically thanany other territory yet recognised. That our soil has been stained with the blood of American citizens, shed by Mexican hands, in an armed invasion of our Territory nearSonoita, and that there is no civil magistrate or officer here to evenprotest against such an outrage. That throughout their whole Territory, from the Rio Grande to the RioColorado, six hundred miles, there is no Court of Record, and noredress except that inefficiently administered in a Justice's Court, for civil injuries or crimes. That the population of the Territory is much greater than was that ofKansas or Nebraska or Washington Territory, at the time of theirorganization, and that it is steadily increasing, and will, under theinfluence of the Road and Mail Bills of the last Congress, be greatlyaugmented. That there are no post routes or mail facilities throughout theTerritory, and that finally, we are cut off from all the comforts ofcivilization--and that we claim, as a right, that protection which theUnited States should everywhere extend to her humblest citizen. Wherefore your petitioners humbly pray that the Gadsden Purchase may beseparated from New Mexico and erected into a separate Territory underthe name of Arizona, with such boundaries as may seem proper to yourhonorable bodies, and that such other legislation may be made as shallbe best calculated to place us on the same footing as our morefortunate brethren of Kansas, Nebraska, Minnesota, Oregon andWashington, that we may be enabled to build up a prosperous andthriving State, and to nourish on this extreme frontier a healthynational sentiment. And we, as in duty bound, will ever pray. [Signed by more than five hundred resident voters. ]