KATHAY: A CRUISE IN THE CHINA SEAS. 

 BY W. HASTINGS MACAULAY. 

 "Coelum, non animum, mutant, Qui trans mare currunt. "

 NEW-YORK: G. P. PUTNAM & CO. , 10 PARK PLACE. M. DCCC. LII. 

 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by G. P. PUTNAM & COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New-York. 

 JOHN F. TROW, PRINTER, 49 Ann-Street. 

 Dedication TO MRS. JANE G. SPROSTON, BALTIMORE. 

ESTEEMED AND RESPECTED MADAM:

I have presumed to address this work to you, more to prove the truth ofits motto, than from any hope that it may be intrinsically worthy ofyour acceptance. 

Connected with a noble profession by ties at once sad and dear, I haveconsidered that a narration of events seen in its service--howeverunworthily set down, might not be uninteresting to you; and feelingassured that your prayers and kind wishes have followed us through"changing skies, " as we have sped across "distant seas, "--upon our safereturn, I am truly happy in being able to imitate the custom of marinersof more sunny climes, and to place this offering of affection upon thealtar of Gratitude. 

 THE AUTHOR. 

CONTENTS. 

 PAGE

 CHAPTER I. 

 Set Sail--Sea-sickness--Get a good offing--Sail ho!--Islets of St. Paul--Shipwreck there--Sufferings--Crossing the Line--Fernando Noronha--Fire--Remarkable peak--Arrival at Rio--Disappointment--Beauties of the harbor--Ashore at last--Village of San Domingo--Flying trip to city--Yellow fever--All hands up anchor--Sugarloaf Mountain--Off for the Cape 9

 CHAPTER II. 

 Telling Tales out of School--Double the Cape--The Flying Dutchman--Albatross and Cape pigeons--Catching the albatross--The man who ate the albatross--Superstition of sailors--Man overboard--Lying to--Accident--Death-- The sailor's grave 20

 CHAPTER III. 

 Island of St. Paul--Steering for Java Head--Land ho!-- Christmas Island--Straits of Sunda--A Beautiful Scene-- Sentimental Simile--Come to anchor--Anger Point--Village of Anger--On shore in Java--Perfume of the East--Banyan tree--The governor and Dutch hotel keeper--Welcome at an inn--Attack on Anger Fort--Dutch officers' prowess, and French!--The Javanese--Chinaman--Mosque--Mahomet-- Bazaar--Watering place 26

 CHAPTER IV. 

 China Sea--Anchor off Macào--Canton River--Whampoa--Trip to Canton--The San-pan--Pagodas--Lob Creek--Salt junks-- Description of a Junk--Mandarin, or search boats--Pirates-- Crowded state of River at Canton--Land at Factory Stairs-- Visit Vice-Consul--New China Street--A Cow-House--Wonders of Canton--Factory gardens--Water parties--Buddhist temples, and holy pigs--Dock-yard at Whampoa--American missionary at Newtown--Bethel, and its pastor--Fourth of July--Back to Macào--The Typa--The Barrier 33

 CHAPTER V. 

 Passage ashore--A-ti--The Praya--Forts--Governor's Road-- Description of Macào--Murder of Amaral--Manoeuvring of Seu and his triumph--A new Governor--His death--Council of Government--View from Guia Fort--Marques's garden--Camoen's grotto--Epitaph and doggerel written there--A beautiful spot--Stealing fire from the gods--Fate of Prometheus 44

 CHAPTER VI. 

 Up the Canton River again--Bay of Canton--Bocca Tigris-- Forts at the Bogue--Their construction--Conduct of Chinese when attacked--The Feast of Lanterns--The Rebellion--Paddy fields and mosquitoes--Back to Typa--Pleasant times--Blowing up of a frigate! 54

 CHAPTER VII. 

 Visit Hong-Kong--A beautiful morning--Harbor of Hong-Kong --Settlement of Victoria--Line-of-battle ship Hastings-- Forecastle logic--An arrival from the Northern Seas--Her B. M. S. Herald--Salutes--Description of Victoria--Club House--Health of Hong-Kong--Death vacancies--Feasting and fêtes--Ball--Pic-Nic--Departure from Hong-Kong 63

 CHAPTER VIII. 

 China--Limited opportunities--The Chinese nation compared with others--Its antiquity--Magnitude of territory and practicability of laws--Supposed origin of the Chinese --Fables of their early writers--Explanation of their exaggerations--Foundation of the Empire--Chinese traditions compared with sacred history--Similarity of events--Wise men of the East--Introduction of Buddhism--Arts and sciences-- The magnetic Needle--Discovery of Gunpowder--Origin of the name--China--Che-Hwang-te, King of Tsin--Parallel between him and Napoleon--Religion--Confucius--The Taouists-- Buddhism--A Buddhist's idea of Heaven 70

 CHAPTER IX. 

 Christmas and the New Year in Macào--Removal of remains of Da Cunha--The dead give place to the quick--Chinese manner of fishing--A new principle in hydraulics--Inspection of Macào Militia--An ancient cemetery--Arrival of the new Governor, Cardoza--Underway for Manilla--Fetch up at Hong-Kong--Another start--Island of Luconia--Bay of Manilla--Earthquake--Discovery and settlement of the Philippines--Description of Manilla--The Calzada--A puppet-show 81

 CHAPTER X. 

 Drive to the Balsa--Meaning of the word--A mob of women --Nora Creena--Magic, slipper--Description of the drive --Ferryman of the females--Decline the office--The suburbs --A la Balsa--Manilla, intra murales--The Mole by Moonlight --Friend in a fit--Circo Olympico--Scenes in the Circle 90

 CHAPTER XI. 

 An early drive--Visit to Churches--The Cathedral-- Description--Reflections--Church of the Binondo Quarter --The dead child--Baptism--Life's entrances and exit-- Ceremony of taking the veil--Poor Maraquita--An episode --Don Cæsar de Bazan--Interior of the convent--Interview with the Lady Superior--Interchange of compliments-- Spanish courtesy--An admission 99

 CHAPTER XII. 

 Fabrico del Tobago--Manufacture of the cheroot-- Description of the process--Female operatives--Gigantic effects--Midshipman attacked--A delightful Evening--Boat ahoy--Disappointed in trip to Lagunade Bay--Funcion Familia--Madame Theodore--The Calçada again--Margarita --Teatro Binondo--Teatro Tagalo de Tondo--Espana--Anecdote of an Englishman--Farewell to Manilla--Out to Sea 105

 CHAPTER XIII. 

 Anchor in harbor of Hong-Kong--Hastings and Herald both off--Advantage of newspapers--A first-rate notice--The Press of Victoria--The Friend of China--Its pugnacity-- Advertising sheets--Description of Island--Rain-- Character of Chinese inhabitants 114

 CHAPTER XIV. 

 Hong-Kong--Object of its settlement--Its service as an opium dépôt--Views of the opium trade--Its history-- Considered the cause and object of the war--Treaty of Nankin--Opium trade fixed on China 121

 CHAPTER XV. 

 Trip to Macào--Disappointed in getting ashore--Mail arrived--Get no letters--Expression of sentiments--Causes and effects--Overland mail--Idea of a route--Happy Valley --Chase of Pirates--_A Poisson d'Avril_--Into the Typa again--Arrival of consort--Late dates--Catholic fête-- Depart for Shanghae--The Yang-tse-Kiang--Improvement in the appearance of the country--Better race of men--Banks of the Woo-sung 127

 CHAPTER XVI. 

 Shanghae--Immense number of junks--Foreign residences-- Novelty of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of beggars-- Undertakers--Price of coffins--Decline trading-- Description of city--Stagnant pools--Tea gardens--Sweet site--The Taoutae--Advantages of Shanghae--Departure-- Ship ashore!--Sensation 135

 CHAPTER XVII. 

 Amoy--Its trade--Cause of decay--Infanticide--Manner of destroying female infants--China woman's confession-- Environs--British and American cemeteries--The fatal rock--Koo-lung-Seu--Chinese gunnery--Chinese Customs-- Marriage--Death--Manner of mourning--Pagoda of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan 142

 CHAPTER XVIII. 

 Formosa--Description of the island--Its productions--Coal mines--Metals--The Dutch possessions--Their expulsion-- Proper policy of civilized powers 148

 CHAPTER XIX. 

 Leave Amoy--Arrive in Macào Roads--Live ashore--Well guarded--Night calls--Ventriloquist at Typa Fort-- Ordered on board--Up to Whampoa--Clipper Ships--Over to Hong-Kong--Coronation day--Independence day-- Hurried on board--The mail--Ty-foongs 154

 CHAPTER XX. 

 Ty-foong passed--Pleasant season--Theatrical exhibition --The Macàense--Philharmonic Society--Italian Opera-- Awaiting orders for home--Thoughts of home and friends --Idea suggested by the setting sun--Poetry--Maladie de Pays--Its effects upon the Swiss--A remedy--My own experience, and manner of Cure 161

 CHAPTER XXI. 

 Haul up all standing--Boat races--Interest in the sport-- Excitement general--Arrangements--Jockeyism--Regatta-- Preparations--The start--The race--The result--Launch and first cutter--Race described con-amore--Suggestion of an old salt--Satan and sailors 166

 CHAPTER XXII. 

 Effects of the race--Suppers and their effects--The stuff that dreams are made of--A scrape in the Typa--Again at Whampoa 172

 CHAPTER XXIII. 

 Anson's Bay--Hong-Kong again--P. & O. Company's hulk takes fire--Escape of captain's wife--Toong-Koo Bay--Piracy-- Fire at Macào--Wolf again at Whampoa--Amateur theatricals at Canton--Melancholy musings 177

 CHAPTER XXIV. 

 Commodore arrives at last--Preparations for a start--Delay --Washington's Birthday--The clipper Challenge--Prisoners from her--Homeward bound!--Reflections on leaving--Case of small-pox--Second visit to Anger 184

 CHAPTER XXV. 

 No mosquitoes at Anger--The land of the East--A sketch-- Advantages of Anger--Dolce-far-niente--Island of Java-- Batavia--Bantam--Comparison between Anger and Singapore 189

 CHAPTER XXVI. 

 Pass through Sunda Strait--H. B. M. S. Rattler--Catch the trades--A learned opinion on diaries--Extracts from diary --Isle of France--Its romance--Bourbon--Mauritius--Cape of Good Hope--Description--Trouble in getting in--Table Bay and Mountain 194

 CHAPTER XXVII. 

 Land at Cape Town--Hotels and widows--Drive to Constantia --Description of drive--Price of wine--Manumission of slaves--Seasons at the Cape--The town through a microscope, &c. &c. 200

 CHAPTER XXVIII. 

 Settlement of Cape Town--Its productions--The Kaffir war-- Latest dispatches--Cause of the rebellion--Description of the Kaffir by the traveller--Opinion of him by the resident --Authority of prominent men--Observatory, &c. 208

 CHAPTER XXIX. 

 A death on board--Our freight--Extracts from diary--St. Helena and Napoleon--The trades--Poetical idea of a starry telegraph--Good sailing 217

 CHAPTER XXX. 

 Classic ground--Hispaniola--Romance of the western waters --Extracts from diary--On a wind--Newsboats wanted--The Bermudas--Target practice 222

 CHAPTER XXXI. 

 The Gulf Stream--Darby's theory--Its ingenuity--The coasts of America--John Cabot, the Venetian--"_Terra primum visa_"--Completion of cruise--Conclusion 226

KATHAY. 

CHAPTER I. 

 Set Sail--Sea-sickness--Get a good offing--Sail ho!--Islets of St. Paul--Shipwreck there--Sufferings--Crossing the Line--Fernando Noronha--Fire--Remarkable peak--Arrival at Rio--Disappointment--Beauties of the harbor--Ashore at last--Village of San Domingo--Flying trip to city--Yellow fever--All hands up anchor--Sugarloaf Mountain--Off for the Cape. 

Immediately after noon, upon the 29th day of January, 1850, we east offfrom the wharf at the Navy Yard in Charlestown, Massachusetts, and withthe pilot on board, proceeded to sea. But little time was allowed tosend our adieus, for he soon left us, bearing with him some hastyscrawls, to the illegibility of one of which a very good friend of thewriter can testify. Our commander was very anxious to commence hiscruise, and having been delayed nearly one month for officers, put offupon it as soon as the last gentleman had reported. 

That bugbear to all landsmen, --sea-sickness, --gave me but littleannoyance, although some of the crew appeared to suffer greatly from itseffects. 

Having a favorable wind we soon made a good offing, a very desirablething at that season of the year, and indeed one which no sailor objectsto on any coast, when outward bound; a fresh, favoring breeze and plentyof sea room being his most fervent prayer. 

Our first destination was Rio, and towards it we bent our course. A fewdays out, and the novelty of our situation having worn off, pleasingremembrances of persons, localities, and particular events which hadoccurred during our sojourn in Boston, became less frequent, and prettyallusions to "again standing upon the deck, " poetical petitions to thedark blue Ocean, praying it, in the language of Byron, to "roll on, "gradually gave way to growlings, when old _Neptune_, as if in answer, drove his chariot over its surface, and working its waters into a yeastyfoam, disturbed, at the same time, both our equilibrium and equanimity. 

But little occurred to destroy the usual monotony of a sea voyage. Atlong intervals "_sail ho_!" would be called out by the lookout on theforetopsail yard, and after a time our eyes would be greeted from thedeck with the sight of another white-winged wanderer like ourself, steering for his distant port. Then would come conjecture as to whitherhe might be bound, and sailor-like reflections upon his rig, qualitiesof sailing, and the judgment of the skipper in the selection of hiscourse. 

Our reckoning, and the change of temperature both of air and water, soon announced that we were approaching that equatorial divider of ourglobe, called "_the Line_, " and in about one degree of latitude aboveit (1° 16' N. ) we made the islets of Saint Paul, a barren pile ofrocks of about one mile and a half in length, and of inconsiderablebreadth, standing solitarily and desolately here in mid ocean. Madetheir longitude by the mean of three chronometers; observation 29° 19'57'' west; about one degree different from the longitude in which theywere laid down in our chart; an error which should be corrected. 

It was here that a few years ago a Dutch East Indiaman was wrecked, andof nearly two hundred souls but three or four were saved, and these weretaken off after remaining upon the rocks some twelve days, withoutnourishment and exposed to all the horrors of starvation. Worse yet thanthat, deprived of shelter from a vertical sun, without water to restorethe fluids which his fierce rays extracted from their parching bodies. An immense number of birds were flying over and around these jaggedpeaks, and who knows how greatly these may have added to the torture ofthe shipwrecked crew, when failing nature denied the power to protectthemselves. 

 "Ah who can tell The looks men cast on famished men; The thoughts that came up there. "

In the morning watch of the twenty-sixth of February, we "crossed theline" in longitude 29° 56' 50'' west, with such light breezes, that atmeridian we had logged but 30' south. We escaped the usual visit of old_Neptune_ upon entering the threshold of his dominions, --and as it wasearly morning, suppose the "Old Salt" was calmly reposing in the armsof _Amphitrite_. Seriously, I consider this custom of performingpractical jokes in the character of Neptune, as "one more honored in thebreach than the observance, " and that no officer should endanger thediscipline of his ship by allowing such unmannerly pranks as we read ofhaving been performed, and where the initiated have paid the penaltywith broken bones, sometimes with life. 

At 5. 45. A. M. Of the same day, the island of Fernando Noronha was madefrom the mast head, and as it gradually loomed to the vision, from thedeck, its remarkable peak began to assume various shapes, mostlyresolving themselves into the semblance of a high tower. It is on thenorth side of the island, and is called "the Pyramid;" is said toelevate its rocky proportions from the midst of a beautiful grove to theheight of about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. Near itssummit there is a station, from which a lookout can have supervisionover the entire island, and the sea for many leagues on every pointsurrounding it. 

The island of Fernando Noronha we found in latitude 3° 51' 04'' south, and longitude 32° 27' 15'' west. It was at one time much resorted to bywhalers for provisions and water, although the scarcity of the latter atcertain seasons, does not render it at all times desirable for thispurpose. It is about seven miles long, and from two to three in breadth. 

Noronha was at one time used by the Brazilian government as a place oftransportation for criminals, principally those exiled for treason, andoffenders against the state, and is said to contain some beautifulscenery; also to produce magnificent fruit. But we were not to lingerthere, and soon its peak, becoming more and more indistinct, sinkingslowly, lost its proportions beneath the horizon. 

The first day of what would have been called spring in our own beautifulland, was ushered in by an alarm of fire. The officers and the differentmesses were nearly all at breakfast when the signal for such an accidentwas given, and were not slow in obeying its summons; in less than aminute every one was at his station, when the smoke was discoveredissuing from the galley funnel forward, into which a lazy cook, whoseduty it was to have it properly cleaned every morning, had inserted somestraw for the purpose of performing his duty more expeditiously andeffectually; and indeed he had nearly succeeded in getting rid of italtogether, had it not been for the promptness of a forecastle man, whoseizing a bucket of water, opportunely standing near him on thetopgallant forecastle, dashed it down the funnel, preventing the flamesfrom communicating with the foresail, and thus probably saved the ship. 

Of all the numerous accidents to which a man-of-war is so peculiarlyliable, that of destruction by fire is most likely to occur, andrequires the strictest discipline to guard against; for this areestablished certain hours for smoking, and a stated period at night forthe extinguishing of all lights; so that after ten o'clock the peopledship speeds on her way, over the dark bosom of the heaving billows, withonly the light in the binnacle to show her course upon the illuminatedcard, and the well-secured lamp in the cabin, by which her commander, anxious and unsleeping, traces her track along the corrected chart. 

Upon the tenth day of March, Sunday, at seven bells in the last dogwatch, we came to anchor in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, off the townknown generally by the name of the river, but originally called SanSebastian. After forty days at sea, the exact time made by the firstvoyageur, Noah, we were as anxious as he might be supposed to have been, to escape from his menagerie; for take it as you will, you will findEmerson's "Experience" to agree with yours in this respect, however youmay differ from him in others, when he states in his essay with thattitle (which essay, par parenthesis, I was compelled to swallow inhospital for want of better mental aliment), that, "Every ship is aromantic object, except the one you sail in, --embark, and the romancequits your vessel, and hangs on every other sail in the horizon. "

After, as I have said, this period of probation, in a vessel crowdedalmost to the extent of Noah's, and whose crew bore some resemblance tohis, if one might judge from the _growls_ on board--the prospect of atrip to the shore, fresh provender and iced drinks was delicious, especially as the Hotel of Pharoux had been so repeatedly extolledduring the passage as a horn of plenty, abounding in delicacies, and ourmouths had been so often made to water upon many a "banyan day, " by theluscious descriptions of those who had on former occasions the happinessto have indulged therein. But alas! for human hopes and expectations;

 "L'homme propose, et Dieu dispose!"

For early on the next morning, after getting out the boats, and makingother preparations for a visit to Rio, an order came from our commodoreon that station, forbidding us to land, or to hold communication withthe shore, on account of the prevalence of the yellow fever, thenepidemic there. So here we lay, only a few cables' length from the Ilhada Cobras, with all the tropical plants and fruit almost within reach, and tantalizing us with their perfume, --the domes, palaces and publicbuildings of a gay capital (unvisited by many), rising picturesquelybefore us, and yet forbidden. We thought of Tantalus, and his fate, ofPrometheus and the rock--of--of Adam and his expulsion, and must ownthat in our first feelings of disappointment, we made but a partialexcuse for our primal progenitor, and great great grandmother, as werepeated those expressive lines of the poet, so early engraved upon ourmemory--

 "In Adam's fall We sinnéd all. "

But trying as was our situation, we were in a measure compensated forour disappointment by the beauty of this unrivalled harbor; and todescribe it fully, I must be allowed to revert to the period when thecoast of Brazil was first made, with its bold outlines developing newbeauties as we approached. Indications of land had been noticed early inthe morning of the day of our arrival, and shortly the numerous mountainpeaks for which this coast is celebrated, filled the horizon before uslike a line of dark clouds. As the distance was diminished, peak afterpeak stood out in bold relief against the blue sky, and we were soonenabled to make out the False Sugarloaf, Corcovado, Lord Hood's Nose, and The Tops--so called by sailors, from their resemblance to thoseparts of a ship. The light breeze, under which we carriedstudding-sails, and all the canvas that would draw, gradually wafted ustowards the mouth of the river, yet so gently did we glide along thatnot one feature of the scene was lost; but it was not until we hadpassed the islands that screen its front, that its full magnificence wasdeveloped, and then, as by the drawing aside of a curtain, the harbor ofRio de Janeiro was displayed, --a magnificent basin surrounded byinnumerable hills, which were dotted with beautiful villas. 

Under a spanking breeze, which suddenly sprung up, we dashed on nearlyto the base of Sugarloaf Mountain, and then stood over boldly to thefort Santa Cruz, from which we were hailed, and as the short twilighthad given way to deeper shadows, were signalized by blue lights, continued by an opposite fortification, until they were noticed at thestation on Signal Hill behind the city. Onward we sped, through a fleetof vessels, our craft threading her way, "like a thing of life, " obeyingthe master's steady commands, creating no little sensation, as shedarted amongst them, inclining to the right or left, or pressing boldly, straight ahead, to the repeated orders of "starboard, " "port, " or"steady there, so, " and causing the different craft to run up theirsignal lights quite hastily. "Stand by, " "let go the anchor, " and thereshe lay as if taking rest after a long journey. 

On viewing the scene from the deck by the early light of the nextmorning's dawn, I could compare it with nothing but the paintingdisplayed in a theatre, and the quiet that reigned in that still hour, added greatly to the effect. The background of mountains piercing theclouds; the foreground being formed by the town itself with its housesof various hues, and picturesque styles of architecture, ascending themountain's side, and villas, and country seats aiding the perspective, whilst the island of Cobras served as a side scene. 

Around us stretched for leagues this splendid harbor, upon whose broadbosom lay vessels of every nation (and which appeared capable of bearingthe fleets of the world), fringed by hills whose verdure seemed undying, over which were spread the beautiful trees of a tropical clime. 

An opportunity at last occurred of setting foot upon terra firma oncemore, which was as gladly embraced--permission having been granted tovisit the shore opposite to Rio, where is the village of San Domingo andthe Praya Grande; with several officers we were pulled in the secondcutter to intercept one of those graceful lateen rigged boats, called"felloas, " which are seen in such numbers flitting in every directionover these beautiful waters. As soon as we were landed at the village, there ensued an amusing scene in paying for our passage. The sum of two"dumps" (about four cents in the currency of the United States), each, being demanded, we placed our quotas as nearly as we could make them, inthe hands of one of the party, who acted as spokesman, who tendered thecommandante of the felloa one of our silver coins, much greater invalue than the aggregate sum of our passage money, --which wasindignantly refused by the tawny Brazilian, who was immediately assailedby each member of the party who had any pretensions to language otherthan his own; from which babel we were but too happy to escape, learning, however, when we were overtaken by the linguists, that theyhad fairly talked "the old fellow" down, and compelled him to take moremoney than (even allowing for difference of currency) he had demanded. 

To a person who has never visited tropical countries, a landing uponthis part of the Empire of Brazil, must be productive of much pleasure. At times, it is true, the heat is oppressive, but then the delightfulsea-breeze setting in at regular hours, amply compensates for theinconvenience of the "terrales, " the term applied to the wind whichblows off the land. 

We wished much to have enjoyed the society of the opposite city, but thefell destroyer held his revels there, and we could only manage a stolenvisit to it by night in one of the swift felloas from Praya Grande, having to make a hasty flight on board ship early the nextmorning--gaining but little information by our trip, excepting theassurance that those who had promised so fairly for Mons. Pharoux wereindeed true prophets. 

The call of "all hands up anchor, " awakened us on the morning of the18th of March, and before all hands were on deck, we were being towedout of the harbor by one of the small steamers, to undertake the longestpart of our cruise. The view was then as fine as could be imagined; wewere near the outlet, but Corcovado, Sugarloaf, The Forts, and townwere all in sight, and we had but to turn our eyes from one magnificentsight, to have them greeted by another. I was much struck by theappearance of Sugarloaf Mountain as we passed; it is of great height, and the reader will readily understand the peculiarity which gives itsname. At the time a cloud encircled its brow, within a short distance ofthe summit, yet leaving its peak plainly visible, as if a wreath hadbeen cast over it, and had rested in that position. But soon Rio, andits beauties had faded in the distance, and we were steering our lonelycourse for the Cape. 

CHAPTER II. 

 Telling Tales out of School--Double the Cape--The Flying Dutchman--Albatross and Cape Pigeons--Catching the Albatross --The Man who Ate the Albatross--Superstition of Sailors--Man Overboard--Lying to--Accident--Death--The Sailor's Grave. 

It is very difficult to find incidents on board of a man-of-war whichyou can feel justified in setting before the public; for be it known, inregard to the "secrets of _this_ prison-house, " that "such unwontedblazon may not be. " Now, on board a merchantman, a person might, ifafflicted with _Cacoethes Scribendi_, detail the peculiarities of theskipper, and any little accident which may have befallen him; such asthe admixture of briny fluid, which Father Neptune may have chosen toinfuse into his glass of sherry, by sending an envoy, in the shape of awave, across the poop, who dropped his credentials as he passed over theunclosed skylight: the numerous evils which befell the mate: the jokesof Jones: the puns of Smith, or the sallies of Sandy. But here we areforbidden to walk shodden over sacred ground and details of the cruisemust be confined to generalities; otherwise the travels of thecelebrated Gulliver would be eclipsed, Baron Munchausen lose his claimto veracity, and the shade of the venerable Miller slink back to itsoriginal punishment. 

A strong northerly wind drove us along the coast of Brazil a littlefarther south than was our intention to have steered; but upon itschanging, we mended our course, and soon doubled the Cape of Good Hope, without any incident worthy of notice, --not even seeing the FlyingDutchman; and if I except the white-winged albatross which followed inour wake, and the graceful Cape pigeon that strove to emulate our speed, I may say that, to all appearance, we were alone upon the ocean, --themoving centre of one vast dial of water enlarging its circumference aswe advanced. But here I must be allowed to notice the occurrence of oneof those coincidences which serve to keep alive those smouldering firesof superstition, which Education and Experience have done so much toquench. It had been the practice to fish (?) for the friendly andcompanionable albatross with a line towed astern, to which a hook wasattached, baited with a piece of pork. Now many had been the protestsmade against these proceedings by some of our most stanch and fearlessmen. They prophesied in substance, if not in words, that

 "It was not, nor could it come to good. "

Yet these prophecies were disregarded, and notwithstanding their solemnmurmuring and ominous shakings of the head, the sport was continued; andmany a wondering albatross was bitten, when he took a bite at thetreacherous pork; until one day, after numbers had been taken, one ofthe messes determined to have a sea-pie, of which the body of one ofthese birds should be the component part. If force could have been usedto prevent the consummation of this deed, that mess had not dined thatday: but as the crew on board of a man-of-war have no other recourse butto report their grievances to the first lieutenant, and that not beingdeemed advisable in such a case, these men were allowed to eat thealbatross. Now I do not pretend to identify the captor of the bird, norwas I able to point out the person who ate the greater portion of himwhen transformed into a pie; but it so happened that the next morning, about seven bells, the ship was alarmed by the cry of "A man overboard!"This is an appalling sound at any time; but when the ship is making tenknots, with a heavy sea on, the chances for a fellow-creature's fate, make the moment one of dreadful anxiety, and especially to thecommander, one of fearful responsibility; as to save one life, that often or more must be risked. Ready for the occasion, ours neverhesitated. The ship was put about at once, and as her headway wasreduced, a boat prepared for lowering, volunteers to the rescue calledaway, and the boat at once so crowded as to make it necessary to ordermen out of her before she could be let down. She had barely touched thewater, when the men gave way; but now came the difficulty, which way tosteer? Our velocity had been so great as to leave the poor fellow milesastern; and as every one had been engaged at his station in wearingship, the bearings of the place where he was struggling for dear lifehad become confused. Twenty voices shouted out "Pull there!" "Pullhere!" and as many hands pointed to as many different directions. Ourcommander, who had carefully scanned the surrounding waters, and hadshown the greatest solicitude for the fate of the poor fellow, combinedwith that steady coolness so necessary in such moments, orderingsilence, made a signal for the boat to pull towards a spot where anumber of albatross were hovering. The midshipman in the boat at lastcomprehending the signal, pulled as directed; and then, after hoistingin what appeared to be the life-buoy, which had been let go on the firstalarm, headed for the ship. To lessen the distance, in such a heavyswell, the ship also approached the boat; and as she bent her headgracefully towards that which she had so long sustained at her side, Icould hardly divest my mind of the idea that she was possessed ofinstinct, and sought with maternal eagerness her tiny child, which hadstrayed upon the ocean. As the boat approached, from the forecastle theman's form could be distinguished;--he was saved! Soon he was handedover the side, given over to the surgeon to resuscitate, and the nextday was about, and attending to his duty. And now for the connection ofthe albatross with this accident. One of his messmates declared mostsolemnly that he had seen an albatross sweeping over the topgallantforecastle whenever this man--who had feasted upon one of his kind--hadappeared upon it; and that at the very moment of his disappearance, (hefell from the head, ) this same identical bird had made a swoop, andcarried him overboard! Then, the men in the boat also affirmed, thatwhen they reached the drowning man, two albatross were holding him up bythe hair, whilst others, circling round his head, pecked wickedly at hisface; thus retaliating upon one who had devoured their species, bypicking his bones in return. But if the truth must be told, howeverdisposed the birds may have been, they were the means used by DivineProvidence to prolong the sailor's life; for they not only sustainedhim, as they would have done any other desirable object, by pecking atit, but also directed us where to send the boat to his assistance. Sothe man who ate, escaped the more prolonged punishment of him who

 ----"shot the albatross. "

To show how these matters are managed on board a man-of-war, I give thereport of the affair: "At 7h. 30m. , J. D. (O. S. ) fell overboard; hoveto; lowered a boat; wore ship, and picked him up. At 8, wore, and stoodupon our course. " If a man had slipped upon the pavement, and you hadassisted him to rise by extending your hand, the fact could hardly havebeen explained in fewer words. But it is this indifference to danger, and the casualties of his calling, that makes up the efficiency of thesailor. 

On the twenty-third day of April we were obliged to lay to in lat. 38°26' south, and longitude 45° 34' 47'' east, by chronometer, and on partsof the first, third, and fourth days of May had to undergo the sameoperation. This was by no means pleasant, as, owing to the weight of ourbattery, we rolled very much; and as we could not close the portsentirely, for fear of carrying them away, had a constant flow of wateracross the deck, sometimes very difficult to bear up against. 

On the tenth of May, at about 5 P. M. , all hands were called to reeftopsails, and a forecastle man, who was hurrying aloft to assist hiscompanions on the foreyard, fell from only a few rattlings above thesheerpole upon the deck, and injured himself so severely as to causehis death early the next morning. Poor fellow!

 "Nor wife, nor children, more shall he behold, Nor friends, nor sacred home. "

His remains were committed to the deep, at meridian of the same day; andmany a manly fellow among his messmates and the crew added a briny dropto the wave

 ----which bore him away, And wept in compassion for him. 

The ship, as if loth to leave the spot, lingered there; for it fellcalm, and by the next meridian we had logged but seven miles. 

CHAPTER III. 

 Island of St. Paul--Steering for Java Head--Land ho!--Christmas Island--Straits of Sunda--A Beautiful Scene--Sentimental Simile--Come to Anchor--Anger Point--Village of Anger--On Shore in Java--Perfume of the East--Banyan Tree--The Governor and Dutch Hotel Keeper--Welcome at an Inn--Attack on Anger Fort-- Dutch Officers' prowess, and French!--The Javanese--Chinaman-- Mosque--Mahomet--Bazaar--Watering Place. 

To make the island of Saint Paul in the Indian Ocean, became now ourprincipal object, but baffling and adverse winds delayed us. At lastduring a stormy night the longitude of this island was obtained, and westeered as well as we were able for Java Head and the Straits of Sunda. Upon the twenty-fifth day of May at ten minutes past four, P. M. , thewelcome cry of "Land ho!" was heard at the mast head, which was found tobe Christmas Island, and which we also passed in the night too late tomake any observations. 

We were, however, more certain now of the correctness of our position, and when, at daylight on the 27th, Trower's and Clapp's islands weremade, felt sure of soon seeing Java Head, and in a short time this longlooked for landmark greeted our eyes. Here we entered the Straits formedby the approximation of the islands of Java and Sumatra, and called theStraits of Sunda. 

The night of our entrance was one of some anxiety, and between thisfeeling and the excitement of making land after a long and boisterouspassage, caused a pretty general watch to be kept by idlers and all. 

It was in the morning watch--Prince's Island had been safely passed, andthe principal dangers of the passage overcome, when seated upon theforeyard a scene of beauty opened upon my eyes, which it may be longbefore they are greeted with again. We were heading up the Straits, andfrom my position the highlands of both islands were in sight. Themorning air was soft and balmy, and came laden with sweet odors, as ifAurora had lingered to inhale them upon the "Spice island. "

We were being wafted along almost imperceptibly, with but so slight anundulation as scarcely to be felt. To the eastward rose a high peak onSumatra, around which the sky was rosy with the day god's first beams. The gentle waters around us were still in shadow, with sufficient light, however, upon their surface to enable the eye to take in their expanse, and to distinguish objects upon them. In the distance, and approaching, was a brig looking like a tiny toy, with British colors at her gaff, beating out of the Straits. As the sun, climbing still higher the sideof the obstructing mountain, diffused his gladdening light over thismagnificent scene, the idea struck me, and call it sentimental if youwill, that it was like the first blush suffusing the face of a fairyoung bride, ere the full glad assurance of her happiness comes in allits power to convert it into a bright, beaming smile. So did these rosyrays overspread the face of nature, and enliven every feature. 

On the twenty-ninth of May, came to anchor at Anger Point off thevillage of Anger (pronounced Anjier), a Dutch settlement. Of course thedesire to get on shore was general after being over seventy days onship-board, and my feet were among the first of those which touched thesoil of Java. 

What struck me first as we approached the shore, was that remarkableperfume which every one notices as peculiar to the East. 

A magnificent banyan tree, which literally spreads itself over thelanding, next became an object of attraction; of its exact spread orheight I was not informed, but the natives muster in numbers under itsbranches, and the Dutch Governor uses it to display the signal of hisauthority--the flag of his nation. 

The governor of this district, whose pardon I must crave for allowinghis name just now to slip from my memory, has, here at Anger, a veryfine house and extensive grounds kept in admirable order, and appearedto enjoy himself in this out-of-the-way place, but as he possessed ayoung, pretty, and interesting companion, in the shape of a little wife, had a perfect right to do so, especially being

 "Monarch of all he surveyed. "

Whilst his next door neighbor, Mr. Van-Sy Something or other, having ahouse nearly as comfortable, used it as a hotel, if hotel that can becalled, in which you have permission to wait upon yourself, and arecharged extravagantly for the privilege, whilst its proprietor pays his_devoirs_ (_devours_?) to his bottle of Schnapps, from which his lipsare seldom removed, excepting to receive his pipe, and to sputter outsome delectable Dutch. Thought of Wm. Shenstone's "Warmest Welcome atan Inn, " and wished the poet had been compelled to "put up" with thissame Dutchman as a species of "poetical justice, " for placing thepurchased pleasures of a _public house_ before the sacred and free giftsof home. 

There is a fort here in good repair and kept in excellent order, and Iwas informed that a short time previous to our arrival it had beenattacked by the natives, who were repulsed with great slaughter. Theattack was fierce and vigorous, but as the Malays were not possessed offire-arms, and made the assault with only their naked creeses, they wereeasily repulsed. Was told of the tremendous execution done by one gun inthrowing grape amongst them, but I felt a little inclined to doubt itsefficiency upon examining its bore. 

The attacking Malays were not those of the immediate vicinity, whoseprowess, from their appearance, I should be inclined to doubt, but camefrom the mountains, an unconquered people, who continually make war uponthe invaders of their soil. I was greatly amused by the recital of hispart in the affair, by a non-commissioned officer, who informed me thathe was born a Belgian, and gave his story in broken French, broken inwords as well as grammar, for he had been imbibing something strongerthan water. It appeared that his valiant self and two others equallybrave--one a Frenchman, the other a Prussian--had been selected to serveas a picket, or _avante garde_, as he termed it, some distance from thefort, at a place called the "Barrier. " When at midnight they heard theapproach of the enemy. "Je mette mon fusil à mon bras, " he said; "et àle Francais je di, Prenez--garde! A le Prusse"--hesitating--"Prenezgarde! aussi, et nous faissons un grande detour, --et--et, nouseschappons. Et voila, monsieur, " he continued, pointing to the stripesupon his arm, "Je suis sous officier donc. Je suis caporal de lagarde, --le meme comme Napoleon, --le petit Caporal. " With a hearty laughwe bade "le petit Caporal" bon nuit, and returned to our hotel, askingourselves what need there could be for the Philosopher's Stone, whilstthere existed such a talisman as Conceit?

The Javanese are called Malays, whilst the inhabitants of theneighboring island of Sumatra also claim the same appellation. Fromtheir rules for government, their religion, and other distinctive marks, I would consider them connected with the Arabian race. 

Polygamy is permitted amongst them, and they are allowed to possesswives according to their means. Ouseman, our compradore, and a rajah, told me he had three, all living peaceably together at his house. Thinkof that, ye of the Caucasian race, who, with more means, find itdifficult to get along with one, and in a colder climate too!

Came upon a Chinaman here, a real Fa-qui, tail, costume and all, and foraught I know may have seen the individual before, for he informed methat he had been to the United States--"America" he called them--and hadsojourned in Boston, and this too with as strict regard to the memory ofLindley Murray, and in as good English as we have heard from many adenizen of that second Athens. He also proved that he had profited byhis residence abroad, for he cheated us entirely to our satisfaction, and with such a grace as almost to make us fear he was robbing himself, and only exchanged his articles for our coin, out of respect for ourcountry. These Chinese are truly said to be an imitative people. 

They have a place of worship here, called a Mosque, where I was told theProphet was worshipped. Hearing, one night, a great noise within itssacred precincts, I ventured in, --not without many mutterings ofdissatisfaction from the Malays assembled at its threshold, --and lookedupon a large room dimly lighted, without any visible presence of theProphet, although a large chair was raised in the centre of it for himto rest upon, and a parcel of half-clad wretches were grovelling aroundits feet, with cries piteous enough to have brought him down even fromthe lap of the most beautiful of his dark-eyed houris, had he one-halfof that humanity for which his worshippers gave him credit. I was toldthat these were sick persons, and their friends, praying for relief:--avery commendable thing in a place where there were none but commissionedsurgeons, provided Mahomet has as much skill in medicine now, as hepossessed over these gentlemen in his methods of amputation when hepractised here below. 

Visited the market-place, called Bazaar. Found all kinds of tropicalfruits in great abundance: cocoanuts, bananas, plantains, mangusteens, &c. &c. , and what proved its general use, at every stall, largequantities of the betel-nut were exposed for sale. This nut is used forits exhilarating properties, and is chewed as is tobacco; but whetherits juice is swallowed, I cannot say. It blackens the teeth, and mustprove very efficacious in destroying the enamel. Indeed, from thepractice they have of filing their teeth across, and the use of thisacid, it is a wonder that any thing should remain but blackened stumps. 

Watered ship here, from a reservoir, supplied by an aqueduct from themountains, a distance of some leagues. The water is good, and the supplyappears sufficient, although I cannot commend the construction of thechannel through which it is brought. It is of stone, and stuccoed, raised about two feet from the level of the road, and open at the top. During a short walk along this road, I saw numbers of Malay women usingits waters for the purpose of ablution; and I could not count the numberof the various reptiles of this prolific clime, who, lured by theirdeceitful flow, had met a watery death. 

To show the economy of its construction, I may state, that it is broughtacross a small stream, through bamboo troughs, so loosely attached thatsufficient water is wasted in its passage to turn a small mill in Yankeeland. 

The first day of June weighed anchor, and stood up the Straits; and abusy time, too, we had in getting through. It was "Let go the anchor!""Furl sails!" "All hands up anchor!" "Make sail!" for several days. Atlast, this channel and the Straits of Gaspar being passed, we enteredsafely the China Sea. 

CHAPTER IV. 

 China Sea--Anchor off Macào--Canton River--Whampoa--Trip to Canton--The San-pan--Pagodas--Lob Creek--Salt Junks--Description of a Junk--Mandarin, or Search Boats--Pirates--Crowded state of River at Canton--Land at Factory Stairs--Visit Vice-Consul--New China Street--A Cow-House--Wonders of Canton--Factory Gardens-- Water Parties--Buddhist Temples, and Holy Pigs--Dock-yard at Whampoa--American Missionary at Newtown--Bethel, and its Pastor --Fourth of July--Back to Macào--The Typa--The Barrier. 

The southwest monsoon wafted us quietly and quickly over the China Sea, and upon the nineteenth of June we came to anchor off Macào, in theouter roads. Not finding the flag-ship there, as was expected, aftertaking in some provisions from the naval depôt, weighed anchor, andproceeded up the Canton River to Whampoa, where we moored ship in the"American Reach" to undergo necessary repairs. Whilst these were goingon, I procured a "fast boat, " and went up to Canton, about nine milesabove that part of the "Reach" in which we lay. 

These boats--the "San-pan, " or boat of this country--are used expresslyfor the conveyance of passengers and their effects, and are keptscrupulously clean for that purpose. They pull from three to six oars, according to their size. The oarsmen are all seated forwards, whilst awoman, generally with a child fastened to her back, both propels andsteers with a long oar from the stern, which she manages with greatdexterity, appearing to work harder, and with better effect, than herlazy lord, (who has generally the bow oar, ) at the same time keeping abright lookout ahead, and giving warning in her guttural chant of anyobstruction. 

Passed two Pagodas, each of nine stories, and made a romantic cut-off, via Lob Creek. Soon we came upon a large number of junks at anchor, withhuge manilla cables, --one of which our interpreter pointed out as "SaltJunk. " We had seen enough of that during our passage out, but this kindof junk interested us; for a more clumsy piece of naval architecturecould hardly have been invented to annoy the eye of a sailor. With herperpendicular masts of one stick, no bowsprit, only an opening where itshould be, to receive an anchor, made of part of a crooked tree; poopsticking up like a game fowl's tail, and immense red and white eyespainted on each bow:--for the Chinese sailor says: "No have eyes, howcan see? no can see, how can walkee?"--make such a picture of a thing tofloat in, and wherewith to transport worldly effects, that the questionnaturally arises, What would be the probable per centage a Chineseunderwriter would demand as premium to insure in such a bottom? Indeed, I must do the memory of the patriarch Noah the justice to believe, thathis craft was put together with a better adaptation to the principles offlotation than this, or it would never have lived through that gale offorty days and forty nights, logged in the Good Book. 

Soon, however, we came across some better-looking specimens, which wewere told were the "Mandarin, " or "Search Boats, " belonging to theChinese Customs. Their models appeared better adapted to "make walkee, "and, in addition to sails, they had double banks of oars. 

At what I took to be the Navy Yard, saw some English hulls, which hadbeen built upon, and which, in spite of all this eccentric peoplecould do to change their appearance, still looked ship-shaped. Therewere also some sharp-looking junks being built, which I was told wereto be fitted out against the pirates; but, if what I afterwardslearned be true, they were more likely to become piratical craftthemselves; for it was reported that the person to whose charge theywere to have been consigned had been extensively engaged in thatbusiness himself, until he was interfered with by the English, whobroke up his fleet; and that now he had humbugged the Chinesegovernment into giving him another. At least, so ran the rumor. 

As we approached the Factories, it seemed almost impossible to make ourway through the immense number of boats and other craft which appearedto play hide-and-seek amongst the larger junks moored in every directionin the stream; but, thanks to the skill of our female pilot, we avoidedall collision, and brought up safely at the Factory stairs. It wasexcessively hot; and as we walked across the Factory Gardens to theConsulate, the effects of the sun upon the clean glossy walks waspainful to the eyes. 

After paying our respects to the Vice-Consul, took a short turn up NewChina Street to make a few necessary purchases, and then threaded ourway back to Acow's Hotel, --facetiously termed by one of the party whohad the remembrances of dainty spreads at the "Astor" and "Irving House"in his mind, "a cow house!"

Here we had "tiffin, "--Anglice, lunch, --and then disposed ourselves aswell as we could for comfort and cool air, neither of which did weobtain; nor what our parched throats so loudly called for, --cool water. Acow had no ice; so our only recourse was to procure bottles of "aeratedwater, "--we called it "Pop, " in our ignorance, and to send them wheretruth is said to reside, --the bottom of a well. 

As the sun declined, walked out to view the wonders of Canton; andalthough it was Sunday, found the streets thronged with coolies carryingheavy burdens of merchandise, slung on bamboos resting on theirshoulders, plying backwards and forwards on their different errands, ina jog trot, with a loud grunt;--the grunt as much to relieve them, as togive warning to those in their way. Passed through different streets inthe neighborhood of the Factories, all composed of shops, from whichlong-tailed Chinamen rushed out, chinchinning, and soliciting ourcustom. These streets have a great similarity, and a description of onewould answer for all. With the exception of some that are devoted to thesale of particular articles, as the Street of Tailors, and CuriosityStreet, they differ only in the appearance of the article exposed forsale. They are quite narrow and used only by pedestrians. The onlyquadruped I recollect seeing in them was a diminutive jackass, standingbefore a shop in "Old China Street. " How he came there, or for whatpurpose, I could not determine. It may have been out of compliment tothe "Foreign Devils, " that his long ears were exhibited; but if hisposition was illusive, in one relation it failed; for, despite theseappendages, the beast _did not enter_ the shop. 

The gardens I found the most attractive. They are in front of thedifferent factories, and over them floats the flag of the nation, opposite its respective consulate. They cover several acres, and arewell laid out, planted with every variety of tree and shrub, and arekept in admirable order. Formerly, I understood, there had been apartition wall between the English and American portions, but this hadlately been removed, as I hope may be all causes of division between thetwo governments. 

Towards evening these gardens are frequented by nearly all of theEuropean population, who stroll about to enjoy the breezes from thewater after the heat of the day. 

A number of Parsees are daily to be seen, with their long, white, andscrupulously clean linen surtouts, turbans, or else bugshaped caps, widetrousers, just appearing beneath their white coats (an improvement onthe Bloomer costume, I thought), and shoes pointed at the toes withpieces of some kind of metal, turned up, after the fashion of what theboys call "high dutch" in skates, at home. 

Witnessed the worship of one of this strange sect, and his devotions tohis fire god in his setting, appeared as sincere, at least, as those ofmany, who consider themselves more favored in being able to look"through nature, up to nature's God. "

A Fanqui, or foreigner, finds himself much circumscribed in hisperegrinations about Canton. With the few narrow streets abovementioned, and the open space in front of the factories, he must fainbe content; but upon the water his way is more open, and the Europeanand American residents avail themselves of the broad river to launchand sail their most beautiful boats, as also to use the hong boats, san-pans, fast, and flower-boats, fitted up in every style of luxury. In these, after the business of the day is over, and the heat of thesun abated, parties pass their evenings, in smoking segars andconversation. 

Across the river are some Buddhist temples, in which shaven priests arealmost continually engaged in "chin chinnings, " and where are kept someholy pigs in a state of continual surfeit. The very last animal I shouldthink of holding sacred. 

There are some gardens in the suburbs of Canton, said to be worthy of avisit, but these I had no opportunity to see. 

After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's, " I returned to theship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the headof the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown, " where a large ship, thePrince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard wasat that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am notmisinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Everything necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr. C. Was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock. 

Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the mostconvenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vesselswere here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals anddepartures of ships give it a cheerful aspect. 

The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contactwith the "outside barbarian, " as much as is Canton, by its walls. It istrue, you may be allowed to pass its gates, but run a risk of beinghustled and pelted out of their vicinity. 

Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "oldtown, " which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both ofthese places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops, all the "same same, " as in Canton. 

Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a residentat Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was makingarrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to hisvocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engagedwith several Chinese, the principal men of the village, to whom he wasexhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. Itwas a very superior instrument, and an excellent method of conveying tounpractised minds, many things, which otherwise must have remainedmysteries to them. The motion of the earth, for instance, illustrated bya ship rising above the horizon--the sidereal system, and the eclipsesof the moon. He describes the population of this vicinity as being verydense, and ignorant. Their belief resembles the ancient mythology, forthey have their Jupiter Tonans, or "thunder god, " and other deitiessimilar to those worshipped by the more classical heathen of Rome andGreece. He has succeeded in partially disabusing the minds of some, butfinds it requires great efforts to eradicate ideas so stronglyimplanted. May he have success in his disinterested labors! I shouldhave earlier mentioned that Mr. Bonny speaks the Chinese language, andappears to convey his ideas with much fluency. 

There is a bethel, or floating "seaman's chapel, " anchored in the"Reach, " which was presided over by the Rev. George Loomis, whom I hadthe pleasure to hear deliver an excellent discourse from the text: "Andby one man sin entered into the world, and death by sin. " In the courseof his remarks he made a beautiful and touching allusion to the deathsof those two great men, Sir Robert Peel and General Taylor, the news ofwhich had just reached us by mail. 

Was pleased to see a numerous and attentive audience of shipmasters andseamen, and from the frank and pleasing address of Mr. L. Cannot doubtbut that he will have great success with this class of men. 

The bethel was in itself a very neat affair. The place devoted to publicworship being about fifty feet by thirty, prepared with admirableadaptation for that purpose, and well ventilated. It contained, besidesapartments for the pastor, a fine reading room, where a number offoreign papers were regularly filed, and a good library kept. Its roofwas flat, and above this was another covering of matting which formed afine sheltered promenade. Indeed, a building could hardly have beenplanned ashore, comprising more commodious, convenient, or comfortablequarters, and I am indebted to its cool retreat for the remembrance ofmany an hour passed pleasantly. 

The Anniversary of our National Independence came round whilst we lay inWhampoa. It was recognized with due honor. The ship dressed with flags, and a national salute fired at meridian. A dinner was given to theofficers by the American shipmasters and residents of the "Reach, " whichpassed off very pleasantly. The usual quantity of champagne andpatriotism expended. Toasts proposed and drank, and the fact generallyconceded that the United States were the greatest states on the face ofthe globe, and the "United Staters" the greatest people. 

Our repairs completed we unmoored, and commenced to back and fill downthe river until we had cleared the shipping, and then taking advantageof the tide, got into the bay and headed for Macào. Found the flagshipat anchor in the outer roads, and after saluting and communicating withthe Commodore, went into the Typa, and moored there. 

The Typa is an anchorage inside the harbor, and is so called from anisland which protects it from the sea. It has from four to four and ahalf fathoms water, and of course cannot be entered by very largevessels. Although in former times the largest sized East-Indiamen havegone in. They are now forced, if stopping at Macào, to anchor outside, abreast the town, and some four or five miles off. 

Hong-Shan river, or the Broadway, commences here, and is a kind of acut-off, navigated by junks from Canton to Macào. 

The city of Macào, called first by the Portuguese, Port da Macao, fromthe name of a Chinese idol found there, is called Gaou, or Ou-moon bythe Chinese, and occupies the southernmost point of the island ofHeang-Shan. 

After the discovery of the passage to the East Indies around the Cape ofGood Hope, by De Gama, who landed on the Malabar Coast in 1498, thePortuguese continued to navigate these seas, and were allowed by theChinese a shelter on this point. In the year 1550, having obtained afoothold, by degrees they built themselves stone houses and forts, andcommenced the foundation of a city. 

About this time, they had established a profitable commerce with Japan, China, and the Eastern Islands, and this settlement became the centre ofan extensive trade, which increased until Macào grew into a place ofconsiderable importance. 

The Chinese government, however, in granting this favor to thePortuguese fenced it around with their usual caution, and placed manyrestrictions upon them. The point upon which Macào stands, is almostseparated from the Island, the connection being an Isthmus of aboutthree hundred feet; across which, about three miles from the Praya, awall is built through which is a gateway, guarded by Chinese soldiers, and beyond which the Portuguese were not allowed to pass; and theirmunicipal government was restricted to the barrier. It was placed therein 1573. 

When we were there the guard had been removed, and a part of the wallthrown down; the Governor Amaral having broken through more _barriers_than this, previous to his murder--of which, anon. 

CHAPTER V. 

 Passage Ashore--A-ti--The Praya--Forts--Governor's Road-- Description of Macào--Murder of Amaral--Manoeuvring of Seu and his Triumph--A new Governor--His Death--Council of Government--View from Guia Fort--Marques' Garden--Camoen's Grotto--Epitaph and Doggerel written there--A Beautiful Spot--Stealing Fire from the Gods--Fate of Prometheus. 

Leaving the Typa in a fast boat, we were soon opposite the town, when wewere obliged to re-embark on board one of a fleet of Tanka boats, whichput out from the shore as soon as our buttons were discovered. Tankameans eggboat; they resemble an eggshell divided longitudinally, and arepeculiar to Macào, the shoalness of the water preventing a landing inlarger vessels. Were captured by A-ti, a laughing Chinese nymph, with asplendid set of the whitest teeth, and landed safely on the Praya, afterpurchasing our ransom with a Spanish coin, in value twenty-five cents. 

The Praya is a fine promenade, extending in a semi-circle along theentire front of the city. On each of its points is a fortification, andat its right extremity the Plaza. On the part which winds past thePlaza, are placed stone seats, which are of a nature to retain much ofthe caloric dispensed by the sun during the hot days in summer. 

This walk is well paved, with a stanch sea wall to protect it from thewaves, which come in with considerable force, especially in the Typhoonseason. It commands a view of the neighboring islands, the Typa andouter roads. 

Back of the town, and overlooking it, is a hill, on which is placed anextensive work, called Fort Monte, which not only commands the town butthe approaches from its rear. 

From beyond the Campo gate, a fine, smooth, and well graded carriageway extends to the "Barrier;" and to the right of the "Gate, " on aneminence, stands a well placed fort having guns bearing upon theBarrier. 

There appear, indeed, to be forts wherever one can be stuck, and thewonder in regard to some of them is, how they ever got the guns intothem, so inaccessible do they seem. 

On the Governor's road, about three fourths of a mile from the town, isa fine garden, belonging to a French Abbè. It is arranged with muchtaste: in its centre was a small mosque-like temple, whilst at eachcorner of the enclosure were towers of the same style. The road is thefavorite promenade and drive, and upon it, at the season when we werethere, were to be seen some very fine equipages, principally belongingto persons from Hong-Kong and Canton. 

Macào, like other Portuguese towns, has many churches and its quantum ofpriests. The cathedral is the best looking building, although not solarge as some of the others. It had lately been repaired, and bothinternally and externally presented a gay and gaudy appearance, instrong contrast with the decayed condition of the houses surrounding it. 

There is the ruin of the church of "Mater Dei, " which had been destroyedby fire, the entire front of which still stands, covered with carving, a majestic monument of the pride and power of Rome. 

The other churches, although their interiors are kept in some repair forthe purpose of worship, have crumbling and mouldering walls, provingthat "_Tempus, edax rerum_" has not spared them, and in the absence ofrejuvenating art, still uses his remorseless tooth upon the softeningstone. 

Indeed, what strikes the stranger most sadly and forcibly as he sauntersthrough the streets, is the universal evidence of decay. It ismelancholy to see buildings, which must once have been magnificent, slowly sinking into rain. The mind cannot help picturing thesebuildings, brilliant with beauty, and resounding with festivity, whenMacào was the depôt for the trade with China, with a fleet of allnations filling its harbor, and its storehouses teeming with the richmerchandise of the East. 

But British perseverance, and Yankee enterprise, have asserted thesupremacy of the Anglo-Saxon race, and the vessels, which formerly madethis their port after their voyage around the Cape, now discharge andreceive their cargoes at Whampoa and Hong-Kong, whilst only occasionallythe masts of a man of war, or of some straggling merchantman, are to beseen in the harbor of Macào. 

The murder of Amaral in 1849, is said to have produced a prejudicialeffect upon the interests of Macào, but I cannot see how that could haveinfluenced it in this manner, as the difficulty had not extended to openwar, and a Chinaman would have been willing to trade if he found itprofitable, even should such have been the case; and had the Portugueseartillery been echoing amongst the rocky hills of Ou-moon, you wouldhave found him seeking the almighty dollar

 "Even at the cannon's mouth. "

The particulars of the Governor's murder, as I could obtain them, arethese: Ioao Maria Ferreira do Amaral, Governor of the provinces ofMacào, Timor, and Solor, was assassinated near the "Barrier, " on the 22dday of August, 1849. It appeared by the confession of Chang-asin, aliasChou-asin, that an acquaintance of his, named Shing-Chi-liang, onaccount of the Governor having made roads without the Campo gates, bywhich the _graves of his ancestors were destroyed_, was so enragedthereat, that he determined to murder him in order to satisfy hisrevenge. For the purpose of assisting in this design he hired twoChinese, Ko-Ahong and Li-Apau, and charged Chou-asin, together with twoother Chinamen, Chou-ayan and Chen-afat, to act as guards to preventpeople from approaching. To this they all agreed, and hearing that theGovernor would go out on that day for recreation, proceeded to waylayhim. 

Towards evening, when it was twilight, Shing-Chi-liang seeing Amaral, the Governor, approach on horseback, went up to him under the pretencethat he had a petition to hand him, saying that he had a complaint toprefer, and whilst Amaral was stretching out his hand to receive thepaper, Shing-Chi-liang drew a sharp knife he had concealed in the handleof his umbrella, and commenced stabbing him in the arm and shoulder, until he fell from his horse, when Shing-Chi-liang immediately cut offhis head and hand, and they all ran, each his own way. Chou-ayan andChen-afat were killed in an engagement with the English, having, withhimself, fled to Hiang-Kang, a seaport, from whence they went over tothe pirates, and he was afterwards seized by the Chinese government andtaken to Canton, where, after making this confession, he prayed formercy. 

A long and not very amicable correspondence was held by a PortugueseCouncil of Government, formed at Macào upon Amaral's death, and Seu, Governor-General at Canton, in which the Council demanded the head andhand of their murdered Governor, and Seu required in return threeChinese soldiers, (arrested by the Portuguese authorities at the Barriergate after the murder, and detained in prison at Macào, as accessory tothe deed, ) as an exchange for the remains of the Governor. The Councildenounced this demand as infamous, denied the soldiers, and put thequestion to Seu, if he intended to keep possession of these mutilatedremains of a brave man, cowardly slain, because he is conscious ofhaving acquired them by means which, in his judgment, give him a rightto traffic with them, regardless of constituting himself by this act aparticipator in the crime which gave them into his possession; alsoadding, that, protesting against his conduct, they would hold himresponsible for the assassination of the Most Excellent Governor Amaral, and for the retention of his hand and head, which they would make knownto the world by means of a manifesto. 

Seu answered, that the murderer of Amaral, Shing-Chi-liang, had beenapprehended, tried, sentenced, and executed. 

That in consequence of his confession, the place where the head and handhad been buried was discovered, and that a deputed officer had been sentto deliver them up, but the council still detaining the three soldiersapprehended at the Barrier, the officer did not dare to take uponhimself the responsibility, and concludes his dispatch, with trueChinese sententiousness, in these words: "Here is the cause of the delayand of this confusion. All things should be managed with reflection, andin a proper way. Obstinacy cannot bring affairs to a conclusion, " &c. , &c. 

Upon the 29th of the November succeeding, the Council published theirmanifesto, in which Seu and the Chinese authorities are accused ofconnivance in the murder of Amaral. This, Seu, who is evidently not tobe written down, answers by accounting for the disposal of the murdererof the Governor, and his accomplices, and sends the confession ofChou-asin. Matters remained in this position until the 24th of Decemberof the same year, when the Macào Council sent the three Chineseprisoners to Seu, and assuming that these men, on duty at the time atthe Barrier, were at least cognizant of the murder of Amaral, demandtheir trial, informing Seu at the same time, that in placing them in hishands, they hold him responsible for them. When Seu had obtained thesemen, after some delay, he sends the head and hand, which were deliveredto a commission appointed by the Council to receive them, on board aLorcha, off the Praya Grande. They were conveyed to the cathedral, andafter funeral service had been performed, placed in consecrated groundwith solemn ceremony. Thus His Excellency Governor-General Sen gainedhis point. What became of the three Chinamen I did not learn, butsuppose they were allowed to escape. 

A new governor was commissioned and sent out in the Portuguese corvetteDon Joas Primero. Pedro Alexandrino da Cunha, captain in the royal navy, reached Macào on the second of May, 1850, and immediately assumed thereins of government. 

It was now supposed that something more efficacious than writing wouldbe resorted to; but he died very suddenly on the sixth of Julyfollowing, within about one month before the anniversary of theassassination of his predecessor. A singular coincidence. 

Some have been bold enough to assert that his sudden demise was to beattributed to the effects of poison administered by Chinese servants, bribed by their government, but I think that the report of his deathfrom cholera is correct. 

After the death of Da Cunha, the administration of government devolvedagain upon the "Council, " of which D. Jeronimo Joze de Matta, Bishop ofthe Province, was the head, assisted by a Chief Justice, Mayor, Judge, Procurator, and Fiscal. 

This was not very popular, as what government can be, to a decliningpeople, who will not exert themselves, but complain to Hercules, withoutputting their own shoulders to the wheel. 

The walks in the neighborhood of Macào are pleasant, and the viewsvery fine; among the best are those from Penha hill on the southernpoint of the peninsula, and Guia fort on its northern side. From thelatter position the entire possessions of this Portuguese province canbe comprised at a glance, and Macào lies beneath you a miniature city, with pigmies moving along the Praya and its principal streets. Thisfort, from its commanding position, is used as a telegraphic station, and news of any unusual event is communicated to the town by signals. 

From its elevated ramparts the eye takes in the course of the Hong-shan, or "Broadway;" Casa Branca; Ilha Verda; Camoen's grotto; the Barrier andBarrier forts; the harbors, both inner and outer; the Lapa hills, andnumerous islands, as far as it can reach. 

Camoen's grotto is situated on an eminence within the grounds of aPortuguese gentleman, Senhor L. Marques, which, without the attractionwhich would draw one to the poet's place of meditation, are themselveswell worthy of a visit. 

I went there in company with some Peruvian gentlemen, and was at firstdoubtful of the propriety of trespassing upon private property, but myscruples being overcome by my curiosity, and the assurance of one of thePeruvians that his acquaintance with the Senhor Marques would be asufficient passport, we proceeded. 

Upon passing his mansion, and sending up our cards, learned from aCoolie of the absence of its master, and entered unhesitatingly upon hisgrounds. Descending a few steps we came to a splendid aviary placed inthe centre of the avenue. It was about fifteen feet in diameter andtwenty in height, and contained quite a variety of beautiful birds. 

The grounds are very extensive, covering entirely one of the hills uponwhich Macào is built, and are well laid out in broad smooth avenuesfringed with rare trees and shrubs, but

 "Each walk was green as is the mantled pool For want of human travel. "

After walking some distance, had to ascend a path, which leading alonga dividing wall, brought us over the roofs of the Chinese houses inthe town below, and reminded us of the position of "Le diable boiteux"of Le Sage, although I doubted if we could have gained as muchinformation as that personage did, had we possessed his powers. Fromthis part of the garden is a fine view of the inner harbor and thePraya Manduco. Still ascending, upon the highest point found Camoen'sgrotto. It had originally been an arched rock, but part of the archgiving way, has been walled into a square enclosure, in which apedestal of corresponding proportions has been placed which sustains abust of the great Portuguese poet. Upon tablets set in the four sidesof the pedestal are inscribed appropriate verses from his poem--theLusiad; whilst in another place upon a stone set in the rock, is anepitaph in the French language, but the most appropriate sentiment wasexpressed in this couplet pencilled on the side of the grotto:

 "Sad poet! 'twas thy fate, alas, to be Not less the child of fame than misery. "

Another poet degenerated into doggerel, and desecrated the spot by thefollowing impromptu, which, as he had the delicacy not to scribble onCamoen's Cave, I transcribe for his benefit. 

 "Oh, clear Camoens! what a time you had Bounding 'the Cape' to write the Lusiad: But you got fame, and I should have some too, For didn't I come round the Cape as well as you? So, if you now in glowing numbers shine, Did I not _right_ (?) when twice I've crossed the Line? But keep your laurels, poet, any how Your song is sad--'twas _written at Macào_. "

The spot was well chosen for meditation, and imagination carried me backto the time when the exiled child of genius was seated here, and "gaveto airy nothing a local habitation and a name. "

Returning, as we passed a house occupied by a Chinaman who hadsupervision of the grounds, one of the party lighted his cheroot from ajoss stick burning before the Chinaman's joss, and was reminded of acertain Prometheus, who in olden times was said to have filched firefrom the heathen deities, but for a nobler purpose, and having beenconvicted of this flaming larceny, had for his punishment "the Vultureand the Rock, " which fate I deprecated for my friend; although should heremain long in this climate, I could not answer for the state of hisliver. 

Poor fellow! little did I then think so soon to hear of his death. A fewmonths after he was murdered in a revolt of Coolies on board a ship inwhich he was returning to Peru. 

CHAPTER VI. 

 Up the Canton River again--Bay of Canton--Bocca Tigris--Forts at the Bogue--Their Construction--Conduct of Chinese when Attacked--The Feast of Lanterns--the Rebellion--Paddy Fields and Mosquitoes--Back to Typa--Pleasant Times--Blowing up of a Frigate!

A rebellion had broken out in the province adjoining that of Kwang-tung;and as the insurgents had made rapid advances towards the capital, ourconsul there thought our presence in the neighborhood might provebeneficial to American interests. It was again, "All hands up anchor, "to proceed up the Canton River, and away we steered, past the toweringisland of Lin-tin, towards the Bocca Tigris. 

Macào may be said to be situated in the Bay of Canton; for these are allislands until you pass through the "Bogue. "

Bocca Tigris was the name given to the eastern channel of the entranceto the Pearl, or Canton River, --a near translation of the Chinese nameHoo-tow-mun (Tiger's Head Passage). The pilots call it Foo-mun. 

There is a fort on Anunghoy Point, and two others on the western channelon the North Wang-tong island; also the office of Hoppo, Collector ofCustoms, where pilots are forced to show their "chops. "

There are also quite a number of Chinese forts in the neighborhood ofthe "Bogue;" but they did not appear to be manned, although quite anumber of old rusty guns were sticking through their embrasures. 

Some of these forts are very extensive; that is, their walls enclose aconsiderable area; but they are badly constructed as places of defence, having a greater part of their interior exposed, which cannot be helped, as their walls mostly run up the sides of steep hills, in which noexcavations have been made. They present, however, quite a picturesqueappearance, and add greatly to the effect of this otherwiseuninteresting part of the river. 

Many amusing tales are told of the conduct of their defenders when theBritish vessels attacked them; and how, when a shell was thrown intothem, the Chinamen scattered in every direction, through their ports, and every other available means of exit, exclaiming, "Ei-yah, how canmake shoot two time?"

Went up again to Canton, to the Consulate, and learned there that therebels had not advanced much farther, having stopped to plunder, whilstSeu, the Governor-General, was preparing a large force to oppose them. Found great preparations making for a festival, which my duties did notallow me to see, but which those who witnessed it described as trulymagnificent. They called it the Feast of Lanterns. From what I saw haveno doubt but that it must have been so at night, when the immense numberof chandeliers, candelabra, lanterns, and other arrangements for makingan illumination, were lighted. 

There were also images as large as life stuck over the gates ofdifferent streets, and upon platforms crossing them, with paintings ofmovable figures strung across them, Sing-Song houses, &c. &c. If you addto this an immense multitude of fantastically-dressed Chinamen, eachcarrying a lighted lantern richly ornamented, the coup d'oeil will bebetter imagined than I can describe. 

The celebration was kept up three nights, and the crowd assembled wasimmense; so great, indeed, that those who were enabled to gratify theircuriosity did so with much wear and tear of clothing, and considerableloss of buttons. 

In the meanwhile the valiant Seu had started to chastise the insolentdisturbers of the peace of the "Central Flowery Land;" and beingdetermined to expedite his work, took with him a high and learned judge, to condemn the vagabonds, and doubtless executioners to dispose of them. 

We remained in Whampoa Reach, awaiting the issue, amidst the delightfulodors of decaying paddy fields, and lulled to rest by the harmoniousmusic of myriads of mosquitoes. 

During this grand convulsion of the Chinese empire, it was delightful tonotice the regularity with which our Chinese compradore, Ayooke, supplied the ship with provisions, and how little he appeared to know orcare about the matter. I thought him then a great philosopher, butchanged my opinion when I learned that these affairs are of commonoccurrence in the Chinese empire, especially at the commencement of anew reign, and that the authorities know as well how to manage them, aspolice officers to put down a row in Ann Street, Boston; and evenbetter, for they have a _golden_ remedy, which long experience hastaught them how to apply. 

After remaining one month at Whampoa, and a large proportion of the crewgetting on the sick-list, we were at length allowed to leave for our oldanchorage in the Typa, where we learned that the puissant Sen, hisgenerals, and his judges, had quenched the revolt, and the misguidedwretches, whom he had in pity spared, were sorrowfully retracing theirsteps. But one thing I noticed in his extended and flowery report, thatquite a number of his officers were degraded, and heavy fines imposedupon them for alleged misconduct; thus proving in China, as throughoutthe world, that the larger fish consume the smaller fry, and increasegreatly in consequence. 

Found the change of position very agreeable, the fine bracing air fromthe sea acting like a charm upon the invalids, and driving away thosewandering minstrels, the mosquitoes. Besides, there was the daily tripon shore in the "fast boat, " available to those whose duties would allowit. The pleasant walk along the "Praya, " or on the Governor's Road, andthe generally delightful sail off to the ship at nine o'clock, on someof those beautiful moonlight evenings, when with but a gentle breeze towaft us smoothly over the placid waters, we could recline in ourcommodious boat, and puffing the mild cheroot (a privilege not the lessvalued because it was later than the regulations permitted smoking onboard), we looked upon those gentle beams, and thought kindly of thosefriends _beneath our feet_, upon whom they might fall to-morrow, "windand weather permitting, " and a sweet face would glisten upon us fromthe undulating wave, and "Boat a-hoy!" from the watchful quartermasterwould bring us back to reality and the ship; overboard would go ourmagical cheroot, over the side our imaginative self, and having dulyreported the important fact of our return on board, down we would divethrough the steerage hatch, to conjure up again in dreams the dear facewe saw in the moonlighted wave. 

Our anchorage in the Typa was the same we had occupied on our firstvisit, and was very eligible, being protected by Typa island from thesea. Upon the point of this island nearest to us stood a fort, namedafter the island; and a little more than a cable's length from ourmoorings lay the Portuguese frigate Donna Maria Segunda, of thirty-eightguns, commanded by Captain Francisco d'Assis e Silva. 

Affairs had been pursuing their usual routine, when upon the evening ofthe twenty-eighth of October a boat boarded us from the frigate, undercharge of an officer, who brought an invitation from Captain D'Assis tojoin with him on the twenty-ninth in the celebration of the birthday ofthe King Consort of Portugal, upon which occasion it was his intentionto dress his ship, and fire a national salute at meridian. Of course, anassent was given; and accordingly at eight o'clock the next morning, every thing having been previously prepared, we broke stops with thefrigate, and thus bedecked, both vessels made a gallant show. 

We had dressed perpendicularly, whilst she had her flags fore and aft, running up to her flying jib-boom from the water, and down to the gaffon her mizzen. The frigate had been newly painted, and looked upon thisoccasion exceedingly well, her neat appearance being the subject ofgeneral remark. 

We lay thus, side by side, until meridian, when she fired a well-timedsalute, in which we joined; and every thing remained quiet, until abouttwenty minutes past two, when a report was heard resembling thedischarge of a whole broadside of double-shotted guns, and a shockcommunicated as though we had received their contents. 

The water was forced through the air-ports, splashed over the spar-deck, and dashed down the hatches. The first and general impression was, thatthe frigate had fired into us. On rushing upon deck, nothing could bedistinguished, for we were completely enveloped in a dense cloud offlame and smoke. For a minute or two nothing could be determined. Atlength an old quartermaster sung out, "The frigate has blown up!" Iascended the poop, and looking towards her moorings, saw all thatremained of the "Donna Maria Segunda, "--a part of her stern-frame, justabove water, and burning. Where once had pointed her tall spars, soproudly decked with the flags of all nations, no trace remained. She wasthe most complete wreck that could be imagined. The water was coveredfor acres with her fragments, and her masts and spars were shivered tosplinters. 

Our boats were instantly alongside the wreck, and took from it, andpicked out of the water, ten persons in all, of whom two were Chinamen. Amongst these was the young officer who had boarded us the previousevening, with the invitation to join in the celebration, --a fine-lookingman. He had been drawn from under the capstan, which had been blownaft, was horribly mutilated, and had doubtless nearly all his bonesbroken, besides sustaining internal injuries. He died like a hero uponour quarter-deck, without a groan. 

The crew of the Donna Maria was said to have been composed of twohundred and forty souls; but there were some sick in the hospital atMacào, and a few absent on leave and duty. They had, however, someChinese on board, not mustered as the crew, carpenters, and otherartisans, and some prisoners from a French bark, the "Chili. " I considerthe number killed by this catastrophe may be fairly set down as twohundred!

The commandant, d'Assis, perished with his vessel. His body was foundtwo days after, dragging astern, he having been blown through the sternport, and caught in a sail. His remains were carried to Macào, andburied with military honors, our officers assisting at the ceremony. Hisson, a young Aspirante, or Midshipman, was ashore at the time. Alieutenant was in charge of the "Typa Fort, " and the surgeon in Macào, at their hospital. The other officers were principally on board thefrigate. 

Our commander, with others, had received an invitation to dine on board, but the time had been fortunately postponed. 

At the precise moment of the explosion on board the "Donna Maria, " wewere probably as near as it would have been possible to have been in ourrelative moorings, lying broadside on, but a little astern of her; ourstarboard battery could have been brought to bear a point forward of thebeam; and this very proximity was doubtless the cause of our escapingserious injury. Two of her heavy guns passed entirely over us, clearingour royal masts, and falling into the water about twenty feet on ourport beam. Our main deck awning was spotted, as if a shower of blood hadpassed over it. Some shot, pieces of lead, fragments of spars, and thebrains and entrails of the sufferers were lodged in the tops, and otherparts of our ship. The gig was stove, but her keeper escaped withoutinjury; another boat-keeper was not so fortunate, an iron bolt strikinghim on the knee, and maiming him for life. 

A gun carriage was thrown past us into the fort, breaking through theroof, and falling directly in the place where an officer had been seatedwriting, but a few moments before. 

After the explosion a number of smaller ones took place, and then theremains of the ill-fated frigate burned to the water's edge. 

Her magazine was said to have contained eighteen thousand pounds ofpowder. Three hundred barrels of sixty pounds each, for which orderscame out a few days later, to be stowed in the magazine in Macào, andthe frigate to proceed to Lisbon. 

The disaster was attributed to design. The gunner was said to have firedthe magazine for revenge. 

It was said that only a few days previous, he had been severelyreprimanded by the Captain, for some neglect of duty, and that theCaptain had pulled his beard. 

Afterwards he told his messmates that he could not survive such anindignity, that he was an old man, and had not long to live, but when hedied, others should die too. 

This is the way the Portuguese account for the loss of the vessel andher crew. 

Out of all those picked up, but one survived! Our own escape can only beattributed to the protecting hand of that Providence, without whoseknowledge not even the smallest sparrow can fall to the groundunnoticed. 

CHAPTER VII. 

 Visit Hong-Kong--A beautiful Morning--Harbor of Hong-Kong --Settlement of Victoria--Line-of-battle ship Hastings-- Forecastle logic--An arrival from the Northern Seas--Her B. M. S. Herald--Salutes--Description of Victoria--Club House--Health of Hong-Kong--Death vacancies--Feasting and Fêtes--Ball--Pic-Nic--Departure from Hong-Kong. 

A visit to Hong-Kong had been some time in contemplation, andaccordingly on Friday afternoon, twenty-ninth of November, we unmoored, and at three o'clock on Saturday morning, weighed the remaining anchor, and drifted with the ebb towards the entrance of the Typa, but stickingfast on a mud bank, had to wait for the next tide, which luckily bore usoff on the afternoon of the same day, when we got out and underway. 

Upon one of the most beautiful mornings I had ever seen in this climate, Sunday, the first of December, we were approaching Hong-Kong harbor, with easy tacks, and came to anchor off the town at noon. 

The harbor is a very fine one, having sufficient depth to float vesselsof the largest size, which is indicated by its color, being of abeautiful blue, and forming a strong contrast to that of the Typa, andthe waters around Macào, which are discolored by the debouchment of theCanton river. 

It is very wide, and commodious, and completely locked by islands, making, I should think, a safe anchorage in the Tyfoong season. 

Hong-Kong is also an island, and was ceded to the British by treaty withthe Chinese. The settlement on it was called Victoria, but is generallyknown by the name of Hong-Kong; in fact, I believe you would puzzle somepersons if you should call it by the former name. It extends over muchground, and a towering mountain in its rear, upon the base of which aportion of the town is built, has quite a romantic appearance. 

Found in harbor Her British Majesty's line-of-battle ship Hastings, bearing the flag of Admiral Austen, and a number of merchantmen of allnations. One, which lay near us, with the Peruvian flag at her gaff, hadpainted upon her stern, "Iowa, of San Francisco, " and I overheard aconversation between two of the men, on the subject of the apparentanomaly. A forecastleman, addressing a petty officer, inquired how shecould hail from San Francisco, then belonging to the United States, andfly the Peruvian flag. "Why, look ye, you nincompoop, " was the reply, "can't there be more'n one Jack Jones on the purser's books, andwherefore shouldn't there be more than one San Francisco in the chart ofthe world? Doesn't it stand to reason, seeing it's a saint's name, andthey're all Catholics along that coast, that they should have a SaintFrancisco in Peru?"

This reasoning appeared conclusive, as the subject was dropped. Butafterwards I learned that she had been purchased in California, and in afew days her nation was made known, by the word Callao filling theplace of that of the Golden City on her stern: although her ownerappeared to regret that he had been forced to change her flag, as, Iunderstood, he thought he could have done better in an American bottom. 

Upon the afternoon of the day of our arrival, H. B. M. Ship Herald camein from the North Seas, on her return, having been six years out fromEngland. No news of Sir John Franklin. Found her officers a fine, gentlemanly set, in excellent health and spirits, and apparently glad ofa chance of thawing out. 

On Monday saluted the Governor, twenty-one guns, which was returned fromthe "Murray Battery, " a field work on shore, gun for gun. Afterwardsgave the Admiral a salute of thirteen guns, returned by the "Hastings"with fifteen. This appears to be a British Admiral's salute, althoughwe, having no such rank in our service, are not allowed to give him moreguns than we give to our highest naval officer, viz. , a Commodore. Itmay be all correct and proper, considering we have no correspondingrank, but if our government would only view the matter in a properlight, and lay aside petty prejudice, it would put our navy officersupon a par with those of other nations, and by giving them a rank, ifonly in name, entitle them to the same honors!

What are these officers but representatives of our government abroad, and how are foreign nations to judge of us, but through the weight theseofficers bear? Appearances and display go a great way withsemi-civilized nations!

But I tread upon ground I had intended to avoid, and must step back to amore neutral point--my narrative. 

After saluting, official visits were paid to the Governor and Admiral, and I took an opportunity to view the settlement. 

There is a striking difference between Macào and Victoria. Here themerchants are princes, and dwell in princely edifices; here is life inthe streets, and people move about as if they had an object, and thestranger says at once, "Ah! here is civilization!"

It is true he may not witness the evidence that caused an observingtraveller to make such an exclamation upon coming to a gallows; but thatproof may not be wanting that human nature requires restraint in all itsphases, he will see patrols of policemen with loaded clubs, and Sepoys, having a carbine, or small rifle slung across their shoulders, paradingin great profusion. 

Another difference will be remarked between this place and Macào, whichis, whilst Macào presents its best features in approaching it fromseawards, Victoria makes but little show from the water, and if a personwere only to have seen it from the harbor, he would set it down as avery inconsiderable place. It is only when you land, and after walkingup one of the narrow slips, you pass through a gate into the "Queen'sRoad, " that any thing can be seen of the town. It is true, as I havebefore stated, that some fine houses may be noticed on the base of themountain, but upon this road, the principal portion of the town isbuilt, and that cannot be seen from the water, owing to the houses beingbuilt down to its edge, having their entrances from the "Road. "

This avenue is wide, and well graded, having a fine carriage way and_banquettes_ for pedestrians on either side. 

The houses are mostly built of a beautiful light-colored granite, andare of an imposing style of architecture. For a distance of nearly twomiles along this principal thoroughfare, you come, every few rods, uponsome public or private building that would do credit to any city. Thereare large, commodious barracks, hospitals, ordnance storehouses, interspersed with the dwellings of merchants, all built of thissolid-looking building material. 

But the pride of the colony should be its club-house, which is thefinest looking building in the place of its style. It is very extensive, and built of blocks of granite, with a splendid front, a façadesupported by a number of large granite pillars; and its interiorarrangements correspond with its external appearance. 

Ascending by steps from the street, you enter, from a wide portico, which extends along the entire front, upon a large open hall, in whichare entrances to different apartments--billiard rooms, writing, smoking, and general reception rooms, and the superintendent's apartments. Twowide flights of stairs bring you to the upper story, or _au premiér_ asthe French would call it. 

Here are a suite of rooms, extending along the whole front, in which arenewspapers from all parts of the world, materials and tables forwriting, and all kinds of couches, divans, &c. , for lounging. You canstep from these rooms upon a magnificent balcony, corresponding with theporch below, where you can enjoy such refreshments as you may bepleased to order, _al fresco_ if you choose. 

Another large apartment is used as a restaurant, and in another place isa fine library. Upon the floor above are sleeping apartments, baths, &c. , and the attic furnishes rooms for coolies and attendants. 

Through the attention of our consul, we had the entrée and use of thisdesirable place, and never did tired traveller enjoy the friendlywelcome of an inn, after a weary journey, more than I did this hall ofease. Like the dove, I had found a resting-place from the waste ofwaters, and loth, very loth was I to return to my home upon the deep. 

With all its attractions, however, Victoria will never become adesirable place of residence, on account of its insalubrity. Macào hasvery much the advantage over it in this respect, as indeed in everyother, where natural causes are considered; and never was the differencebetween races so apparent as in the position and condition of these twosettlements in China. 

It cannot but be sickly in Hong-Kong in the summer season, and withoutentering into explanations of the cause, I merely state the fact, thatduring the summer of 1850, more than one-third of Her Majesty'sfifty-ninth regiment were cut off by diseases incident to the climate. And the remark of an officer attached to Her Majesty's service, that itwas a fine place for _death vacancies_, has more truth than poetry init, I trow. 

We were fêted and feasted here to our heart's content. Among those whowere most forward to do us honor, I must mention our own Consul, andMr. Burd, Consul of the Swedish government. These gentlemen, who did usso much good, need hardly blush for this publicity of their deeds. 

The officers of the Hastings gave a grand ball, to which our officerswere invited, whilst the "Heralds" proved by their kind attentions thattheir cruise in the hyperborean regions of the North, had in nowisechilled the warm current of their hearts. 

A pic-nic had been gotten up for the eighteenth of December, but thearrival of the mail on that day prevented many from attending, whowould otherwise have been glad to have explored the island in pleasantcompany. As we only waited for our letters, as soon as they werereceived we were forced to bid a reluctant adieu to hospitableHong-Kong. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

 China--Limited opportunities--The Chinese nation compared with others--Its antiquity--Magnitude of territory and practicability of laws--Supposed origin of the Chinese-- Fables of their early writers--Explanation of their exaggerations--Foundation of the Empire--Chinese traditions compared with sacred history--Similarity of events--Wise men of the East--Introduction of Buddhism--Arts and Sciences-- The Magnetic Needle--Discovery of Gunpowder--Origin of the name--China--Che-Hwang-te, King of Tsin--Parallel between him and Napoleon--Religion--Confucius--The Taouists-- Buddhism--A Buddhist's idea of Heaven. 

A chapter descriptive of China may not inappropriately fill up a period, during which I was ill and convalescent at Macào; although, for a personsituated as I was, the attempt to describe the character of a people, covering such an extensive portion of the globe (having only had a peepat them through a few of their outermost ports, and these considerablyEuropeanized), is somewhat like the efforts of one to give an idea ofSaint Peter's at Rome, after a single glimpse through its portals. 

However, I may venture to speak of these people from what I have seen, fully aware that plenty of more potential pens, held by persons who havelived longer among them, and penetrated their country to a greaterextent than I shall ever be able to do, have given their peculiaritiesto the public. 

Another difficulty prevents a better knowledge of their forms andsystems, and that is ignorance of their language, and the disposition ofthose with whom one can communicate to mislead and misinform theinquirer. For much as their interests may lead them to pretend to it, they really have but little respect for the "outside barbarian. "

The Chinese are, not only numerically but comparatively, a great people, and their government (the oldest now known) a marvel and a wonder. As anation, they have consistently carried on their system, whilst othercongregations of people, arising successively upon the sea of Time, havespent their force and dashed their sparkling particles upon the shoresof Oblivion. They, like the ocean, though occasionally vexed by stormsand convulsions, still cover the expanse allotted to them. 

The Egyptian, who held the Jew captive, became himself a slave. The"people of God, " who broke through and displaced the nations of theplain, vainly opposing their passage to the promised land, themselves atlast dispersed, sought refuge throughout the world; when the "Holy City"Jerusalem became in turn a prey to the Roman. And Rome, the mistress ofthe world! Rome, too, was blotted from the list of nations. 

An empire, which, extending from ninety-eight to one hundred andtwenty-three degrees of east longitude, and eighteen to forty-two northlatitude; bounded on the north by Russia and Siberia, on the east by thegreat Pacific Ocean; south by the islands (many of them independentpowers) which fill the China Sea, and disconnect it from the IndianOcean; and westward by the independent Tartar nations, covering withits dependent provinces an area of five millions of square miles, ofwhich only about one-fourth is included within the geographical limitsof China proper, governs, at the present time, a population of fourhundred millions of souls (a proportion of one-third of the estimatedinhabitants of the globe), with a code of laws which has been handeddown from the earliest ages of which we have a knowledge. 

Situated on a continent, supposed to have been selected by the Creatoras the spot on which to place the first of the human race; upon which, as is told in holy writ, at the Divine command, light first burst uponthe world, it is singular that this part of Asia should so long haveremained in darkness, and that even now conjecture loses itself insearching for the origin of this peculiar people. 

If we take the first book of the Pentateuch for our guide, we must cometo the conclusion, that in the confusion of tongues at the building ofBabel, when the Lord said, as is described in the eleventh chapter ofthat book, "Let us go down and there confound their language, so thatthey may not understand one another's speech;" "and from thence the Lorddid scatter them abroad upon the face of the earth;" that this nationformed a portion of those presumptuous builders, who, in theirmigrations, settled down upon the banks of the Yellow River, and theremultiplying, gradually peopled this vast surface. 

Their early traditions, indeed, appear to extend beyond the period ofthe flood, and from these the "dark idolater of chance, " who wouldrejoice to prove that "Book of Books" a splendid fable, draws hisdeductions. But how he fails. The learned men of China, those held inthe greatest repute amongst a people where such a reputation is noteasily obtained, themselves admit, that the history of their empire inits infancy, is, for the most part, apocryphal, and that the myths ofthese early writers are only to be considered as such, and are not toaffect its chronology. 

Indeed, the character of the language, when it refers to superiorpowers, has such a tendency to exaggeration, as to afford greatfacilities to those who would construe it to suit this particularpurpose. [1]

The Chinese historians speak of their Celestial Emperor, who reignedforty-five thousand years! They also name a Terrestrial Emperor, whosereign extended eighteen thousand years! And they had, in addition, aHuman Emperor, who occupied the throne for the same period, insuccession. There is then their fabulous period, which commences withthe creation of man, when Pwan-Koo (First Man) was produced. Afterwhich the Celestial Emperor, Teen-Hwang-She, "Imperial Heaven, "settled the years, taking eighteen thousand years to perform thistask. Succeeded by Te-Hwang-She, "Royal Earth, "--who is said to havedevoted the same period to fix the months. After Royal Earth comesJin-Hwang-She, --"Sovereign Man, "--who divided the land, and wasforty-five thousand years about it. 

Following the string of their traditions, we come down to two thousandthree hundred and fifty-six years before Christ, when was founded thefirst dynasty, --that of Te-yaou, --according to their chronology, Heabeing Emperor, or Chief, as De Guignes rationally supposes. This isabout the time of the dispersion of the human family, and, I think, theproper date for the birth of this nation. Let that be as it may, thereis a great similarity between their traditions and our sacred record. Their first man was produced by superior power, and was placed over theinferior animals. 

In the reign of Te-yaou there was an account of a great flood. Shortlyafter, wine was discovered, and its intoxicating effects found out inthe reign of Fohi, who answers the description of Noah. Then came aprince noted for his fondness for hunting, who was contemporary withNimrod. And there was a seven years' drought, like that described inGenesis, ch. Xli. 

Another singular coincidence in their chronology, which I may be allowedto refer to before dismissing this part of the subject, is the fact setdown by one of their historians, that in the fifty-fifth year of theforty-fifth cycle, the Emperor Ming-te, in about the tenth year of hisreign, sent messengers to look for "_the holy man of the West_. " Nowthis period corresponds with the commencement of the Christian era: andallowing for discrepancies unavoidable in such a calculation, could itnot have been possible that a faint glimmering of the "Star ofBethlehem" had crossed this monarch's vision, and that, but for theirdilatory footsteps, these ambassadors of the Chinese Emperor might haveknelt by the side of those other "wise men of the East, " who were guidedby its beams to the cradle of the infant Saviour? Certain it is, thatBuddhism was introduced into China about that time, and that this rulerfelt the need of a holy man, as if by inspiration!

The Chinese appear rapidly to have progressed in the arts, and to havebeen foremost in all those inventions, which in their application haveconduced so much to the amelioration and welfare of the human race. Eleven hundred and eight years before we commence to count our era(B. C. 1108, ) the unerring magnet that points so steadily to the pole, was discovered by this ingenious people; and who may say what otherprogress may have been made in science and literature up to B. C. 220, when the cruel and ambitious Che-Hwang-te, who, having finished theGreat Wall, and wishing to date the foundation of his empire from hisreign, collected and burned all such records as he could obtain, anddestroyed by a cruel death the wise men within his dominions. [2]

Since then, at a very early part of the Christian era, they are known tohave made a representative of money in the shape of paper, [3] and astamp duty was imposed upon the sale of lands (A. D. 369). Shortlyafter, learning became much cherished; literary men rose to dignitiesand honor, and colleges were endowed in different parts of the empire. 

Types had been invented some time in the early part of the ninthcentury, [4] and the art of book-binding was known as early as A. D. 750. [5] The application of Gunpowder as a projectile was made in 1225;and the invention of the Loom is dated a few years later. 

The name, China, is derived from 'Tsin; and it became known by this nameto the other nations of the world through the ambition of Che-Hwang-te, before mentioned, who assumed the title of King of 'Tsin; and who, if hewas cruel, appears to have been also able and talented. He not onlyenlarged and extended the empire, but what was gained to it heconsolidated and strengthened. The Great Wall was not the only monumentof his reign. Splendid roads afforded facilities for trade, which hegreatly encouraged. Overflown lands were redeemed, and stagnant andunwholesome marshes became, by the magic of his mind, fertile andhealthy plains. His capital was enlarged and beautified, and employmentgiven by his great works to thousands who else had starved. As he wasthe greatest, so was he the last of his dynasty; for it ended in thedeath of his son, but a short time after his own demise, and a newdynasty, --that of Han, --was erected upon its ruins; thus destroyingplans for the furtherance of which much blood had been shed. 

There is a strong parallel between the life and fate of this monarch andthat of the Emperor Napoleon. Both of humble origin, [6] each madehimself a NAME, and from each a name descended to his country. Under theinfluence of that insanity of great minds, --Ambition, --each filled theworld with his reflected glory, and each failed in his dearest and mostcherished wish, the perpetuation of his name through his offspring. Muchgood did either do, but in the prosecution of the plans of each, muchinnocent blood was spilled. They both were great! Was either good?

The name of Kathay, or Cathay, was applied to this country by ancientwriters, among whom was Marco Polo, a Venetian, who was about the firstwho penetrated its boundaries. I have assumed it, therefore, as a title, as much from its antiquity as for its euphony. 

When one would speak of the religious institutions of China, he isindeed in the position of the person named in the commencement of thischapter. There appears to be three systems of religions, viz. , that ofConfucius, the system of Laou-tze, and that of Buddha. But when youattempt to find out his belief, a Chinaman is very apt to confound youwith a part of each doctrine, and it is only by much sifting that youcan come at his real sentiments. The superior men of China affect thedoctrines of the two first-named philosophers, whilst the dark andambiguous creed of Buddha obtains with the lower classes. 

The system of Confucius is well known to the general reader. It is anexcellent code of morals. He advocates a control over the passions, anda proper management of the affections, and comes as near as he can tothe rule laid down in the New Testament, "to do to others, as we wouldhave others do unto us. " His virtues are benevolence, righteousness, _politeness_, (!) wisdom and truth. Filial piety is inculcated as thefirst and primary duty. In fact, he considers it the foundation of all;and teaches that ancestors are to be worshipped after death, and theirslightest command obeyed throughout life. He advocates subjection tosuperiors, and contentment with our lot, but appears to have no idea ofretribution beyond this life; and although in his works the existence ofa superior power is admitted, and he even says, in one instance, "Imperial Heaven has no kindred to serve, and will only assist Virtue, "yet a favorite maxim of his, "Respect the gods, but keep them at adistance, " proves that he considered the superior influences as havingbut little affinity with man. 

The religion of Laou-tze comes next for our consideration. Its followersare called Taouists, from the word Taou, --Reason, --the activeprinciple, --eternal reason. Its founder lived about the same time asConfucius, who is said to have had an interview with him. Confuciusdescribes Laou-tze as resembling the dragon, and received from him alecture, in which he accuses him of worldly-mindedness and vanity, andconcludes by telling him to make the best of it he can. He is calledthe "Venerable Philosopher, " and is said to have appeared thrice uponearth; in one instance as Lavu-Tan, when he honored Confucius with avisit; another time as Laou-Keun, "The venerable Prince. "

He has left some good maxims, but his religion is tinged with error, andis filled with superstition. I have hardly time, and it would bescarcely worth while, to describe the peculiar tenets he inculcates; buthe allows extensive powers to evil and malignant spirits, and thepriests make great use of their supposed influence. The belief thatghosts will return to haunt and disturb the places in which the spirithas left the body, causes many a poor believer of this doctrine to becast out, and deserted by its disciples in the agonies of death!

The doctrines of Buddha, from their prevalence in India, are generallyknown to the reading public. Buddhism is the basest kind of idolatry, and its rites are debasing and revolting. The worshipper is to infusehimself into Buddha by a constant repetition of his name, andcontinually thinking of him. 

The Buddhists sacrifice to their ancestors, and feed the hungry ghosts. They also furnish them with clothing, and other necessaries, by shapingthe article required from paper, and destroying it by fire. In thismanner houses, and household utensils, money, and even slaves, areremitted to such ghosts as are thought to need them. 

I have only space within the limits assigned to this chapter to give adescription of heaven, copied from a Buddhistic work, before I leave thesubject to continue the incidents of the cruise. 

"The land of Heaven--Buddha's--is perfect gold. Its gardens and palacesare adorned with gems. They are encircled with rows of trees, andborders of net-work. There are lovely birds, of sparkling plumage andexquisite notes. The great god O-lo-han; the goddess of Mercy; theunnumbered Buddhas; the host of demigods, and the sages of heaven andearth, will all be assembled on that sacred spot. But in that sacredkingdom there are _no women_; (!) for the women who will live in thatcountry are first changed _into men_. The inhabitants are produced fromthe Lotus flower, and have pure and fragrant bodies, fair andwell-formed countenances, with hearts full of wisdom, and free fromvexation. They are without pain or sickness, and never become old. Thisis the Paradise of the West; and the way to obtain it the most simpleimaginable, depending on one sentence, O-me-to-fuh. Amida Buddha!"

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: One of the causes which have led the Chinese themselvesinto great errors with regard to the ancient state of their country, isthe having given to their ancient characters the acceptations which theydid not acquire until later times. 

The characters which are now translated by the words emperor, province, city, palace, meant no more in former times than the chief of a tribe, adistrict, a camp, a house. These simple meanings did not flatter theirvanity sufficiently, and they therefore preferred employing terms whichwould represent their ancestors as rich and powerful, and their empirevast and flourishing in the _first year_ of its foundation as if _bymagic_. --M. DE GUIGNES' LITTERA. ]

[Footnote 2: This presumption was overruled by an all-wise Providence, by the subsequent discovery of some books of Confucius in repairing anold house. --MONTGOMERY MARTIN. ]

[Footnote 3: Anno Domini 297. ]

[Footnote 4: Anno Domini 924. ]

[Footnote 5: The Chinese made paper about 350 years before Christ; andConfucius, about a century before, wrote his admirable maxims on abamboo, with a stylus. ]

[Footnote 6: The mother of Che-Hwang-te had been a concubine of amerchant of Ho-nan. ]

CHAPTER IX. 

 Christmas and the New Year in Macào--Removal of remains of Da Cunha--The Dead give place to the Quick--Chinese manner of Fishing--A new principle in Hydraulics--Inspection of Macào Militia--An ancient Cemetery--Arrival of the new Governor, Cardoza--Under way for Manilla--Fetch up at Hong-Kong--Another Start--Island of Luconia--Bay of Manilla--Earthquake--Discovery and Settlement of the Philippines--Description of Manilla--The Calzada--A puppet-show. 

Christmas was passed by me a valetudinarian at Macào, the ship havingleft me there, in hospital, on her passage from Hong-Kong to Whampoa. 

On Christmas eve I visited the different churches, all Roman Catholic ofcourse. They were brilliantly illuminated, and filled principally withfemales, who knelt upon the bare floors whilst services, suitable forthe occasion, were performed. All the churches were opened, and in thatof San Augustinho heard some pretty good singing by boys. The old yearwas allowed to pass out and the new year come in without much _eclât_ atMacào, indeed they are a dull set--the Macànese, and if the Chinese hadany courage they could soon dislodge them. 

Upon the 2d of January the removal of the remains of ex-Governor DaCunha, from the government house to the church of San Francisco, tookplace. The corpse was accompanied by the troops and clergy; and thedead Governor vacated in favor of a living one soon expected fromLisbon. 

In my walks outside of the town, along the beach, I noticed someChinamen fishing: their net was very extensive and staked down on thebeach, to its sides were attached ropes which led to a temporary shedupon a rock, where they were fastened to an axle having treadles, whicha Chinaman, by applying his feet, made revolve, and by this meanselevated and depressed the net at pleasure. Saw also a new principle inhydraulics, the object to which it was applied being to fill a sluice toirrigate a vegetable garden from a reservoir, and the _modus operandi_was this: two Chinamen, standing _vis-à-vis_, held the ends of tworopes, each fastened to the upper and lower parts of a bucket, byslackening which they dipped the bucket into a well, and then by haulingin tautened it, and communicating a swinging motion to the bucket by thesame process, discharged its contents into the drain. 

Witnessed an inspection drill of the Macào Militia. They were out inconsiderable numbers, and were clothed in a neat dark green uniform, butdid not appear very perfect in the manual. It struck me that theseyouths did not take much pride in their position as privates, especiallywhen several of the garrison troops were looking on, and when they weredismissed, those who had no servants to carry their muskets, used themas walking-sticks on returning home. 

Strolling about one afternoon, I came upon an old graveyard on the topof a barren hill, off from the Governor's road, about two miles from theCampo gate. The stones were all flat and weather-worn; the inscriptionsof many were indistinct, and would have baffled the skill of OldMortality to decipher. Upon one I found the date 1767. None as late asthe present century; some were in German, others had the English text. 

This burial-place did not appear to have ever been inclosed, nor had itbeen used for the purpose of sepulture for nearly one century. Thatquaint ditty came into my head, and I naturally used its words as Ilooked upon these tombs:

 "Oh where are those who lived and talked A hundred years ago?"

And where will be those who breathe and walk one hundred years hence?

After three days hard work, the ship was got out of the Typa, and on the29th of January (the anniversary of our departure from the UnitedStates, ) got under way with the intention of steering for Manilla, butadverse winds and strong tides forced us to put into Hong-Kong, where wefound it convenient to lay in additional stores. 

Before we left Macào, the Portuguese corvette Don Joao Primero, hadlanded the new Governor, Cordoza. 

On the morning of the 1st of February got under way, and stood out ofthe harbor of Hong-Kong--destination, Manilla. 

In this month commences the Chinese new year, and our departure deprivedus of an opportunity of witnessing its celebration, which is curious andworth seeing. It is perhaps the only general holiday the Chinese have:they devote it to feasting and hilarity, drinking sam-chu, andgambling; and as the fourth commandment is not considered in theirreligion, it is the only period when a cessation from labor occurs amongthem, and they appear to make the most of it, for they dispose of anything at a low rate for a coin, previous to its advent, and the Coolieswill appropriate every thing they can lay their hands on to promote itsgratification. 

Made the Island of Luconia, the principal of the Philippine group, onthe 5th of February, in the morning watch, and employed that day inrunning down its coast. Stood off and on the entrance of the Bay ofManilla that night, and early the next morning passed El Corregidor, andstood up the bay with a fair wind, coming to anchor off the town aboutsix bells, eleven o'clock, P. M. 

The Bay of Manilla is magnificent in its proportions, but there are nostriking objects surrounding it as at Rio. The water is generally boldand its navigation easy, yet there is a bar, or shallow spit projectinginto it about twenty miles from its mouth, upon which a brig, which hadbeen ahead of us, struck as we came up, thus proving that there are_striking_ objects _in_ the bay, at least. 

Upon the morning after our arrival, a "tremblor, " or shock from anearthquake, was felt on shore. They said it was the most severe onesustained for many years. No damage was done that I could learn, andthey do not appear to dread them much, having an outlet for thesesulphureous quakers in an extensive volcano. 

"The celebrated and ever loyal city of Manilla, " as it is called in themost grandiliquose of languages, is one of the oldest Europeansettlements in the East, and it has well deserved its name. It is thecapital of Luconia, or Luzon, and is situated in about lat. 14° 30' N. And 121° E. Long. 

Luconia, as I have before stated, being the principal island of thePhilippines, gives this singular group a character throughout the world. 

These islands were first discovered by that celebrated, but unfortunatenavigator, Magellan, [7] in whose honor a column is erected in Manilla, who did not survive long enough to enjoy the fruits of his skill andperseverance, having been killed at the island of Matan in 1521. 

After the death of Magellan, and the defeat of his expedition, two moreattempts were made, which also failed. A fourth expedition, undercommand of Villalobos, sent by Mendoza, then Governor of New Spain, in1542, succeeded in reaching the islands, when was given to them the nameof Philippines, in honor of Philip the Second, Prince of Asturias; butVillalobos dying, it was broken up, and the few Spaniards that survived, returned home disheartened. 

It remained to Segaspi to establish permanently the Spanish power uponthese islands, and in 1565 he planted successfully that flag uponLuconia, and became its first Governor. By a judicious policy the goodwill of its inhabitants was secured, and the successful attempts ofpriests in converting the credulous natives to Catholicism, cemented aconquest for Spain, the least stained of any in her sanguinary history. 

In 1571 Manilla was formed into a city with a municipal government, butit was not until 1795 that its charter received the royal seal, and onlyin 1638 that it obtained the privileges of the other royal cities ofSpain. 

"The ever loyal city" is supposed to be that portion inclosed by walls, but the suburbs are most interesting to a stranger. 

The semi-circular space called "Manilla, " contains the dwellings of thefull-fed drowsy officials, whilst surrounding it is a busy, activebuzzing hive. The change from the bustle of the Binondo quarter to thedull torpor _intra murales_, strikes you at once. 

Leaving the ship in one of her boats, we were pulled up the Pasig, ariver which runs through the town, and connects Laguna de Bay with theBay of Manilla, and is here between two and three hundred yards wide, protected by an extensive Mole, which projects some distance into theBay, upon the extremity of which is a light-house. 

A short distance from its entrance was the Hotel of San Fernando, situated upon its left bank, which we reached about noon, and findingthe heat oppressive, gladly availed ourselves of the protection of itsroof, and the refreshment of a shower bath, which no one can appreciatemore than a person who has been confined on board a man of war, with"one wide water all around" him, and but few chances to use it. 

Took dinner at the hotel, and having thus refreshed and fortified theinner man, hired a "piscante" (a carriage to contain two persons), anddrove, through the suburbs, out to the Calçada, to reach which, had tocross a magnificent, but ancient bridge over the Pasig. 

The Calçada is the fashionable drive, and the meaning of the word is acauseway, or raised road; it extends along the walls of the city, andits centre, as well as each of its sides, is planted with fine floweringtrees. A space is left between the double row of trees in the centre, inwhich are placed mounted guards, in showy uniforms, and mounted onsplendid horses, to preserve order, and prevent collision of carriages, which are not permitted to pass out of a line, but must enter the passeofrom the city at the left, and are obliged to follow each other at aslow pace and return upon the opposite side in the same order; the dutyof the patrol being to see that no carriage leaves its place in theline. 

This part of the road forms the chord of a semi-circle, whilst acontinuation, not planted, is the segment, which turning round the wallsof the city extends along the beach of the bay, giving a fine view ofthe shipping in the roads. 

From the Calçada branch roads, leading to different points on thisbeautiful island, and these drives are truly magnificent. The roadsare natural, and smooth as the most carefully kept lawn, your carriagerolls along them with so even a motion, and the scenery through whichyou drive is of such an oriental character, and the produce soluxuriant and rare, its fragrance so sweet, that one leans back in hiseasy-going piscante, totally forgetful of every thing but the presentenjoyment, and almost realizing the ideas of fairy land which fancywove

 "In Life's young day. "

On the evening of our first day in Manilla, after returning from ourdrive, directed the "cochero" to take us to the theatre; he accordinglydrove us to the Carillo quarter, and to the theatre of that name. Wereadmitted on the payment of two reals each, and seated ourselves, patiently awaiting the withdrawing of a curtain, upon which wasdelineated an uncouth figure and accompaniment, supposed to representthe "divine Apollo" and his lyre. 

The building was of bamboo, and, covered with leaves from the same tree, was cool and well ventilated. 

About fifty persons composed the audience, and these were principallycivilized Indians of the Tagalo tribe, a fine-looking race. They wereremarkably well behaved, and listened with much attention and apparentpleasure, to some most execrable music, elicited by scraping "thehair of the horse over the entrails of a cat, " to wit: fiddling!which, ceasing at last, at a given signal, up rose the curtain, and with it Apollo took flight, and ascended to the clouds. Theperformance commenced, and lo! we found we had been beguiled into apuppet-show!--the actors being of pasteboard, and, although managedvery well, we soon tired of them, and retracing our road to the hotel, took a shower bath, and turned in. 

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 7: Fernando Magelhaens, generally called as in the text, wasthe first who attempted the circumnavigation of the globe. He was aPortuguese by birth, and sailed from the port of St. Lucar, in Spain, with an expedition of five vessels, under the auspices of Charles V. , onthe 20th of September, 1519. But one of his vessels effected its object, the Vitoria, under Sebastian del Cano, which reached St. Lucar, the 6thof September, 1522, with but eighteen survivors, who made a pilgrimagebarefooted to the Saints for their safe return. He gave his name tothose Straits, through which he reached the East, a few years after hisfellow-countryman, De Gama, had passed around the Cape of Good Hope. ]

CHAPTER X. 

 Drive to the Balsa--Meaning of the word--A Mob of Women--Nora Creena--Magic, slipper--Description of the drive--Ferryman of the Females--Decline the office--The Suburbs--A la Balsa-- Manilla, intra murales--The Mole by Moonlight--Friend in a fit--Circo Olympico--Scenes in the Circle. 

Up betimes upon the morning of our second day on shore, for a drive tothe Balsa. The word, in English, means pool or raft, and the road overwhich we drove led to a ferry over a stream, which you cross to reachthe romantic village of Maraquino. 

Met crowds of native women coming in from that neighborhood to commencetheir work at the tobacco factory. Had heard of _miles_ of girls atLowell, greeting with smiles the noble father of the system which gavethem employment, the honorable and the honest Henry Clay, but had neveranticipated meeting with so many of the sex, within a mile, in theselatitudes. 

The crowd was so great as to materially affect our progress. We hadoften to haul up to allow them to pass, and when our cochero receivedthe order "_ander_" it was coupled with the caution "_despacho_" that hemight drive carefully for fear of injuring some of them. 

Did not count, but suppose there could not have been less than twothousand women in this mob; but, alas! though some were young, but fewwere beautiful, and, as they shuffled along, in their short jackets, andthe ungainly _sciar_ wrapped around their nether extremities, they madea display of charms by no means attractive. Their style of dressdiffering from Nora Creena's in this, that whilst her gown was

 "Flowing free as mountain breezes, "

their substitute for that portion of woman's apparel appeared as if thestrongest kind of a "mountain breeze" had wrapped it tightly round theirforms, and continued to keep them enveloped in its Laocoon-like folds;and although "_every beauty_" was not left exactly "_free_" yet therecould be no disputing the evidence of _sinking_ and _swelling_ sosweetly described by the poet, as the peculiar charm exhibited in thecostume of his admired Nora. They were generally barefooted, and thosewhose feet were clad, had them covered with that wonderful slipper, which barely covers the extremity of the foot, and is kept in its placeby the adhesion of the smallest toe to its neighbor. 

Getting clear, at length, of this crowd of feminines, "presto" was theword, and away we bowled along one of the most beautiful roads I haveever seen. The foliage was luxuriant, the air of the early morning cooland refreshing, and filled with fragrance. The road (a natural one) evenas a bowling green. 

A drive of about one hour brought us to the river. I forget its name; itis a small stream flowing into the Bay of Manilla at Cavitè, where wefound the float formed of bamboo, which is drawn across by _ropes_ (?)made of the same material. By this means that immense concourse ofwomen had been transported, and great as is my devotion and subjectionto their charms, should have declined the office of ferryman, after themorning's rencontre. 

A sudden shower prevented our making a long stay at this romantic spot, and also interfered with a contemplated visit to a manufactory ofManilla cordage in the neighborhood. 

Breakfast was awaiting our return at the hotel, at half-past nine, and this dispatched, spent some time expecting a permit to visit the"Fabrica del Tobago, " in which being disappointed, made our cocherodrive us through the suburbs. As I have before stated, these form theprincipal part of the town, and are of considerable extent, but thehouses in them are generally constructed of bamboo. 

There are a number built of stone, but many of them were in adilapidated condition. 

In the after part of the day drove again to the Calçada, where we spentthe evening passing up and down, and occasionally slipping out of placein the line when we could escape the vigilant eye of the guard, toenable us to pass the equipage and to see the face of "some gay beauty, "the exquisite shape of whose neck and shoulders had tempted us to riskfine and imprisonment for the sake of a "front view. "

After a refreshing sleep, which was superinduced by a glorious showerbath, and made doubly delicious by the remembrance of the glances of thebeauties of the Prado, which, like fire-flies, flitted through ourdreams, started again upon the Balsa road with an intention of visitingthe "Rope factory, " from seeing which the rain deterred us yesterday. 

Our command to the cochero upon his mounting, was _a la Balsa_, trustingto be able to direct him on the way, but as we depended somewhat uponthe fellow's knowledge of the proper place to turn off, found ourselvesagain disappointed, for the confounded postillion either could not orwould not find the road, and out to the ferry again he drove us, inspite of my teeth, and all the Spanish I could get through them. Irather thought he made ignorance a plea for unwillingness, until Iafterwards learned that these men, the cocheros, who are a class _suigeneris_, being of the Indian race, understand but little more of theSpanish language than what they pick up at hotels, in the way of theirprofession--their own tongue being the Tagalo, of which tribe they aregenerally natives. My vanity somewhat soothed by this information, afterbreakfasting drove within the walls of the city, and entered the "cityof Manilla, " little more now than a citadel for the surroundingpopulation. These walls are in themselves thick and massive, and cover aconsiderable space in their foundation, although the area which theyinclose is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them thehouses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs, and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean;but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was theonly thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being atthe hour when the Señoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, andmy object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a futureoccasion saw it to more advantage. 

I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts. 

_Monday, the eighteenth of February. _--Returned on board from anothertrip to the shore, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights, that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the bestplan is to detail them, seriatim. 

Left the ship on Saturday morning, in the ten o'clock boat, and reachingthe hotel, remained there until dinner, occupying time in reading andtaking a bath. After dinner drove out to the Calçada, around it to thefront of the city and the mole; walked upon the mole for an hour ormore, when the moon rose. It was full and bright; never had seen suchsplendid moonlight. Had a sentimental friend with me, upon whom itoperated powerfully. He remarked, "What a treat it would be to have byyour side, in such a scene, one whom you loved, and who could love you!"

Finding the fit strong upon him, made the cochero drive off the Pradodirectly, and take us to the "Circo Olympico"--its opening night. Paidsix reals each for admission and had our money's worth. 

The performers were all Indians, excepting the proprietor, who washimself a native of _la belle France_. The horses were "_native_" if notto "the _manner_ born. " Nice little nags, these ponies of Manilla. TheFrenchman had trained the _menage_, both Indians and horses, andpromised the enlightened public a treat such as had never been offeredbefore. His place was well arranged, and we had tickets stamped _a lapremiere lunette_--to the dress circle. In it were several very tastilydressed and rather handsome ladies--brunettes of course. The performancehad commenced before we entered, and at that time the act in progresswas that of jumping and turning somersets over a poor and patientquadruped of the equine species. There was no clown in "propriapersona, " but a poor _Mestizo_ supplied the place of one, for being sounfortunate as to make some awkward leaps at the commencement, andshowing some concern at his failure, whenever his turn came, he was sureto be greeted with laughter and applause. The audience had elected himclown, nem. Con. --thus proving the truth of the axiom, "Some men have greatness thrust upon them. "

To vary the scene, the manner of leaping was changed, and two men wereplaced upon the beast in a reversed position, which my sentimentalfriend, now becoming facetious, thought very peculiar; they were soon, however, both sprawling in the tan amidst screams of laughter, havingbeen knocked off by this bungling individual. 

This over, the music commenced. Such music! During the uproar an_attaché_ of the establishment appeared all bespangled, with animplement such as haymakers use in the happy harvest time, with which hedescribed eccentric circles round the ring, stepping gingerly backwardsat each swoop. At this my sentimental friend became witty, and sellinghimself to Josephus Millerius Senior, inquired in a whisper if that actmight not have been set down in the bills as "The Rake's Progress. " Hadno hopes for him now, but in a shaved head, low diet, and the _WaterCure_. 

The proprietor stepped gracefully forth upon the smoothed tan toannounce the grand scene--an act of riding two horses by himself, and ayoung lady--her first appearance in any ring! Indeed it appeared to bethe first essay of all the performers. 

With a grand flourish of the entire band, consisting of trombone, riddleand drum, two small Manilla ponies made their _entrée_, accompanied byattendants enough to have borne them on bodily. Señor y Señioritafollowed hand in hand, and introduced themselves, in character, with agraceful bow, a modest curtsy, and the disengaged hand on his heart, onthe part of the gentleman as a token for both. 

The lady was assisted to mount the inside pony, when the gentlemanleaped lightly upon the off one. He was at first seated, as indeed wasthe female performer. At a sudden burst from the band, he started fromhis seat, _a la cavalier_, and bounding into the air, alighted upon thebacks of the horses, a leg upon each. The lady was expected to havefollowed this graceful action, but its effect appeared to astonish thebeasts, and the off steed, as mischievous a Mustang as ever munched at amanger, suspicious of a design to make him carry double, commencedcurveting, and disturbed the equilibrium of the lady considerably. Thenhe seemed determined upon a separation "a vinculo, " and spreading out, placed the gentleman in an awkward predicament, forcing him to make astride like a pair of compasses in measuring a hemisphere, andstretching his tight and light-blue pantaloons to the very extent oftheir elasticity, a quantity of chalk from the saddle, marking the partwhich had come in contact with it. The disorganizing pony, after beingwell flogged, was forced back into his original position by his numerousattendants--_vi et armis_--and assisted in describing a semi-circle, with a few deviations, when suddenly stopping at the place of entrance, he caused the gentleman to perform an involuntary back somerset, andsaluted him with a shower of kicks in his descent. But the undauntedFrenchman was soon upon his legs and the pony's back again, and thencommenced a combat in which all the performers joined. The horses werewhipped by the attendants, and kicked, plunged, and reared on theirpart. The proprietor expostulated with his lady co-actor, whom hethreatened and coaxed in turn, but who evidently had a strong desire todiscontinue the act; and it was amusing to watch the varying expressionof his countenance, as, with frowning brow, and clenched hands, and sucha grimace as a Frenchman only can produce, he menaced the lady, and "thepassing smile his features wore, " when he turned round deprecatingly tothe audience. 

At last, a compromise having been effected, the horses were gottenfairly under way, and had attained considerable headway, but broachingto, the Señora was dismounted, and regaining her feet, made an exit withmore speed than grace, and the performance was announced--concluded. Butupon taking a peep, after the audience had retired, I saw one of theponies, mounted by a Manilla man, running the gauntlet of four longwhips around the ring, and felt certain his rider could not have enjoyedmuch pleasure from the act, for every now and then he caught a lashintended for the horse, and if the other naughty pony had to come in fora like portion, expect he had another rider. 

CHAPTER XI. 

 An early drive--Visit to Churches--The Cathedral--Description --Reflections--Church of the Binondo Quarter--The Dead Child --Baptism--Life's Entrances and Exit--Ceremony of taking the Veil--Poor Maraquita--An Episode--Don Cæsar de Bazan--Interior of the Convent--Interview with the Lady Superior--Interchange of compliments--Spanish Courtesy--An admission. 

Sunday morning, took an early drive upon one of the beautiful roads thatpenetrate the interior of this fruitful island, and returned with a keenappetite for breakfast; this dispatched, drove with a party to visit thechurches. 

Went first within the walls to the Cathedral. Mass was over, and theywere about to close the church. Had an opportunity, however, to obtain ahasty look at its interior. 

It is very spacious and very grand, the roof supported by pillars abouttwelve feet in thickness. No galleries. 

The principal altar was quite imposing, and upon it, plate ofconsiderable value was exposed. 

There are also other altars, and a number of chapels inclosed. 

A full length figure of our Saviour, after His Descent from the Cross, is extended in a glass case beneath one of the altars, exciting gratefulemotion for that love which caused Him to lay down His life for man, butnot a proper subject, in my opinion, for exhibition. 

The divine mission of Christ, its object, His self-humiliation, denials, struggles, sufferings and sacrifice, cannot be too often presented toour minds, nor too eloquently told. His Gospel cannot lose byrepetition, and His life should be our grand exemplar! But the image ofthe Incarnate Godhead should never be associated with the waxen figureof a revolting corpse, nor should the hand of the creature, howeverskilful, attempt the presentment of the Great Creator. If Christ tookupon Himself to become man, after He had performed His mission, and laidaside the form which He had assumed in which to perform the work ofeternity, His carnal attributes should be swallowed up in the glory ofHis Being, and the mind should be taught to look up from the humiliationof the grave, and follow, with awe, the hand that rent the vail of theTemple in twain, up to the mercy seat, whence he ascended to plead forhis murderers!

There was here an altar, on which the representation of a vine, withclusters of grapes was very elaborately cut, also a statue of anapostle, in wood, very naturally carved, and a conspicuous object. 

Entered another church, outside the walls, in the Binondo Quarter. Thiswas not so large as the Cathedral, nor as imposing, but it was crowdedwith worshippers, principally Indians of the Tagalo tribe. They were inevery posture of devotion, telling their beads, and praying withapparent fervor. Indeed they appeared very zealous converts. 

At the entrance to this church of the Binondo was exposed the corpse ofa child of about seven or eight years. It was fantastically dressed andlaid out upon a litter. To the left of this "_memento mori_" whichappeared to produce but little effect, were quite a number of matrons, holding very young infants in their arms, awaiting their turn forbaptism; on some of these baby's heads they had placed wigs!

It was a strange sight, and one in which the entrances and the exits ofthe stage of life were exhibited--that dead child, flanked by thosenewly breathing infants!

Had been told that the ceremony of taking the veil would come off thatafternoon at a convent within the city walls, but the information wasreceived too late, for, after hastening to the house of our hospitablefriends, with whom we drove at once to the convent, found the ceremonyover. The vicinity of the convent was all astir, and we saw a number ofladies, and heard some good music from a fine band, which, although theairs were gay, must, we thought, have had a mournful sound in the earsof the poor renouncing soul, henceforth to be immured within thosegloomy walls. But no one appeared to care for her, all was life andgayety without, one would have thought some marriage fête was beingcelebrated, that those joy notes sounded for the binding of the holiestand dearest tie, had he not known their melody jarred upon heart-stringsrudely severed, and ties for ever broken. But she was married, yes, _married_ to the church! Poor Maraquita, thy fate was melancholy, andthy story a sad one, but one too often told of the warm-eyed andpassionate maidens of this "land of the sun. "

She had loved, her family opposed. Her lover was beneath her incondition, yet she loved him still the dearer. In these countries, fora daughter to _think_ of mating without consent of priests and parents, is sacrilege. She was guilty of it, her proud and haughty motherhad destined Maraquita to be the bride of a wealthy grandee of oldSpain--had disposed of those affections, no longer in Maraquita's powerto give, for they had already been transferred with all the othertreasures of a young and loving heart, to the keeping of a dark-eyedyouth of Manilla. He had been rudely repulsed by her parents, but oftenwould the cautious twang of his guitar bring her to a midnightinterview. These clandestine meetings were interrupted. Her dark-eyedlover no longer came, and she was told she would never see him more. Amarriage with the Don was urged, she resisted--the alternative was aconvent! In pity she implored a short delay, and then convinced that herlover had suffered from her cruel parents' jealousy, gave the vows ofher broken heart to the church. And that music is her requiem, and histoo! For after those vows had been pronounced, and the black veil hadshut out hope for ever, a haggard youth was released from confinement, of whose few and ill-starred years the turbid waters of the Pasig soonwashed away all trace. 

Poor Maraquita! Poor Carlos! I know not whose fate the most to deplore--

 "The one to end in madness, Both in misery. "

With the narrator of this sad tale of passion and despair, I dropped atear to their memory, thinking how truly the poet of all time haswritten--

 "The course of true love never did run smooth. "

The foregoing was not related at the time, but afterwards, by a youngSpanish gentleman, who had taken some pains to enable us to witness theceremony. I had hardly expected to hear a serious story from his lips, for his appearance was reckless and gay, and I had associated him in mymind with the character of Don Cæsar de Bazan, as I had seen itillustrated. 

He introduced us further into the convent than I would have venturedupon my own responsibility--appeared at home with all the prieststowards whom his manner conveyed but little reverence--and inquiring ifwe had any desire to see the nuns, went up to an opening in which therewas a revolving frame, and asked for the Lady Superior. The lady mothersoon presented her round and not unhandsome form at a door to the right, and in choice Italian demanded our business. With much _nonchalance_ DonC. Expressed a desire to pay his respects to the ladies under hercharge, especially to the one just admitted. His coolness somewhatdisconcerted the supreme lady Abbess, to whom such a request had neverbefore been preferred, I warrant, and her black eyes sparkled withscarcely a _holy_ fire, as she answered this time in Spanish, and in thetone of dignity which that language can convey so well, "That the nunswere in their place, and the new one did not receive company, especiallythat of such gay cavaliers, " and intimated that in attending to theirduties they set an example which would be well followed by thosecavaliers. 

Don Cæsar, his _sang froid_ still retaining its temperature, with thegrave courtesy of a true Spaniard, bowing almost to the floor, toldher, "Heaven was the proper place for angels such as her noble self andher illustrious daughters, " and wishing the whole family a pleasantjourney thither, commended them to God. "Adios!" and the door was closeda little hastily. 

After this interchange of compliments, Don Cæsar took us to his father'shouse, within the walls near the convent, where he gave us introductionsto his sisters, cousins, and other ladies, all under the excitement ofthe event of the day. 

The old gentleman placed, with the usual Spanish compliment, his house, and all that it contained in our hands. And when I state, that likeJephtha, he "had a daughter who was passing fair, " my sensations can beimagined, and it may be understood how small a portion of the "Casa, "with this appurtenance, would have satisfied me. 

CHAPTER XII. 

 Fabrico del Tobago--Manufacture of the Cheroot--Description of the process--Female Operatives--Gigantic effects--Midshipman attacked--A delightful Evening--Boat ahoy--Disappointed in trip to Lagunade Bay--Funcion Familia--Madame Theodore--The Calçada again--Margarita--Teatro Binondo--Teatro Tagalo de Tondo-- Espana--Anecdote of an Englishman--Farewell to Manilla--Out to Sea. 

The greatest curiosity of Manilla is its Tobacco Manufactory, or ratherthe Segar Factory, for it is only into segars that the tobacco is madehere. It is a government monopoly, and the revenue from it is verygreat. 

I forget the number of segars said to be made daily, but there arebetween eight and nine thousand women employed solely for that purpose, and giving the small average of twelve segars to each, there would beover one hundred thousand produced per diem; and yet the government isunable to meet the demand for them, having, as I learned, orders monthsahead. 

The article manufactured is called the Cheroot, and is made in twodifferent styles--one called _Cortada_, from having both ends cut; theother, Havana, being twisted at one end like the Cuban segar. They havebut lately commenced to make them in this fashion, and these are put upprincipally for the California market, where doubtless they are disposedof as the real Habana. 

Cheroots, in any shape, are worth in Manilla about eight dollars per M. , subject, I believe, to a small export duty, which more than covers theexpense for boxes, labels, and packing, so that supposing each woman tomake the number stated above, and the whole force to be employed, wehave the immense sum of eight hundred thousand dollars worth of segarsfrom this mammoth Tobaccary per diem. Each operative receives one real aday, but there are others not enumerated in this class, such as malelaborers, overseers, inspectors, accountants, book-keepers, &c. , whoreceive from twelve to thirty dollars per mensem, so that two thousanddollars daily is not a large estimate of wages paid out by thisestablishment. 

The interior is divided into sections, of which there are nine or ten. In each section from eight hundred to one thousand women are engaged. Atthe head of each sectional division are rooms for inspection, where arestationed persons to examine the segars, who return those which do notcome up to a certain standard. Of those that pass the test a sample isplaced, after being marked and numbered, in a glass case suspended inthe apartment. 

Every morning a certain quantity of tobacco is given to each person, andwater is measured out sufficient to dampen it. The operatives are heldaccountable for the material. Out of the number of hanks of the leaf somany segars are to be produced, and if the water is used for any otherthan the specified purpose, no more can be procured. They are said toresort to many ingenious expedients to eke out the allowance. From eightto ten women are employed together, squatted at a low table; and thereare double rows of these tables, leaving a space to pass through thecentre of the room. At each table the entire process of making thecheroot is performed. The leaf is untwisted from the form into which itis fashioned by the grower, spread out and dampened. For the purpose offlattening these leaves they are supplied with stones, with which, andtheir tongues, an incessant and most infernal clatter is kept up. One ofthe party selects and arranges the tobacco, another fills the segar andhands it to her neighbor, who rolls it into shape and passes it to thenext person, who cuts it, and it is thus quickly transferred from handto hand, until the care-dispelling cheroot is perfected and prepared forinspection. As each is completed, it is dropped into a basket placed atthe end of the table nearest the passage way, from which the cherootsare taken and tied up into bundles. The Cortada into bunches of ten. TheHavanas always in bundles of twenty-five. 

The factory, as may be supposed, is very extensive, and covers aconsiderable area. The delineations of it upon the Manilla segar boxes, though rude, are tolerably good illustrations, and will convey some ideaof the appearance of the building externally. But a visit within itswalls is necessary to a realization of its importance. 

I am ignorant of the name and title of the Narcotian saint who has thehonor to preside over these operations, but they have images of severalstuck up in niches at the entrance to the different sections; and if thesense of smelling in their originals, be equal to that of _hearing_, which has been attributed to them, there floats about them sufficient ofthe aroma of tobacco to gratify the nostrils of the most inveteratesnuff-taker that ever was canonized. 

My companion on this visit was the young gentleman who slid into thesentimentals, as I have recorded, upon the moonlighted mole. He wasborn and _raised_ (as they say) in the West; nor did he discredithis _raising_, being in the proportion of every thing native to thatextensive country, and six feet three or four inches in height. It wasamusing to notice the sensation he created as he strode through thedifferent apartments. As he approached, the clatter of both tongues andstones ceased, and hundreds of eyes would be upraised to scan histowering proportions. They have pretty black eyes, those Tagalo girls, and exuberant crops of jet black hair too; but it is coarse, and freelyanointed with that pungent unguent, cocoanut oil! "Mira! El Gigantè!"would be ejaculated in Spanish, whilst no less sonorous notes ofadmiration would be issued in the Tagalo dialect. 

Two Spanish soldiers accompanied us as a guard, and I doubt not butthat their presence prevented these unsophisticated damsels from layingviolent hands upon my virtuous friend. Indeed, I was told of an Englishmidshipman, who, with the usual assurance of his order, disdaining theprotection of a soldier, ventured alone into the midst of the femaleIndian army, which, relying upon its numerical strength, and eitherprompted by curiosity, or feeling inclined to resent such boldintrusion, surrounded him and handled him so roughly, that he wasobliged to "ignominiously cry for quarter;" and was only released afterthe loss of his uniform jacket and some other articles of male attire. Of course, we witnessed no demonstration of this kind, and I do notvouch for the truth of the "yarn"--telling it only "as 'twas told tome. "

From the segar factory to the bath, which, with a change of garments, found necessary to remove the taint of tobacco obtained by remaining solong amidst such quantities of it. Then a siesta, and after drove todine with our kind friends who procured permits for our admission to the"Fabrica del Tobago. " After dinner to spend the evening with a Spanishfamily related to our mercurial friend, Don Cæsar de Bazan. Had dancing, polkas and mazourkas being especial favorites; singing also, and musicfrom La Norma and Sonnambula, exquisitely performed. At eleven o'clockwere forced to tear ourselves away from as delightful a party as it hadbeen our lot to enjoy since we had left our native land, and pulling offin a rocking banca to exchange the soft and liquid notes of beautifulSeñoras, for the gruff salute of the sentry. 

Had been strongly pressed to make one of a party to Laguna de Bay, butcoming on shore found the day for our departure fixed, and as the partycould not be expected to return by that time, were reluctantly compelledto decline. 

Found, however, invitations awaiting us for a "Funcion Familia" thatevening, which accepted. Determining to make the most of the time thatremained, procured a "piscanté" and drove through the suburbs. In the"Escolta"--principal street--found the establishment of Madame Theodore, a fine-looking Mestizo woman, who sells peña dresses, etc. , and has asplendid assortment. She is said to be very wealthy, and though stillyoung--a widow, and is doing a very large business. Of course she hasplenty of suitors, and is a _match_ for them all; for she appears tohave attained perfection in the art of managing men. Should a college ofwomen ever want a professor, she deserves a degree of Mistress of Arts, and would admirably fill the Chair of Coquetry. 

Dined again with our kind friends, and then took a last drive upon theCalçada. Backwards and forwards along this beautiful _paseo_ we went, the moon lending her enchantment, and the different bands filling theair with ravishing strains, odorous plants of the tropics lading it withperfumes, and the dark-eyed Señoras reclining in their luxuriouscalesas, gave as good an idea of a paradise of Mahomet's order as onecould wish. Lingered here as long as we could, and then off to the"Funcion, " where spent a delightful evening. This was a family dancingparty, such as the French describe by the words "_Soirée dansante_. " Atit met several of the ladies we had seen on Sunday, after poor Maraquitahad taken the veil. Were very kindly received, and warmly greeted by thesunny smile and speaking eyes of Señora Margarita. The ladies dancedwith much grace, and entered into the spirit of the thing as if theyenjoyed it. They were in different costumes, and saw here the onlygraceful exhibition of the _Jaceto_ and _Sciar_. Many of them had nocovering to their beautiful little feet, excepting that magical slippernamed before, which they managed to admiration, never allowing it tolose its position, or to touch the floor at any other part but the toe, to which it adhered with singular tenacity, through the most difficultsteps of the whirling waltz or puzzling polka. 

The lovely daughter of the Don--Margarita, however, was dressed in thelatest Parisian fashion, and looked like an--angel, I was going towrite, but the recollection of that "lurking devil" in her eye stayedthe perjury of my pen. She looked a real bona fide woman, and a specimenof the race I shall be well enough satisfied with, until I am assuredbeyond a doubt that angels _are_ feminine, of which there is no proof ineither sacred or profane history (all the illustrations I have ever seenproving the contrary)--and I can get as close to them as I was to SeñoraMargarita. 

_February 22d. _--Birthday of the immortal Washington. The day appointedfor sailing was fast approaching, and had to make all speed to getthrough various engagements in Manilla. Having been informed that anopera would be performed on our last evening, and opera being a specialdelight, went ashore for the purpose of attending, but on arriving atthe theatre found the opera had been postponed on account of the _primotenore_ being afflicted with "boils. " Had often known _broils_ to havebeen the cause of disappointment to the lovers of "Ernani" and otherrapturous representative music, but here the _artiste_ had gotten hotblood into him, instead of getting into hot water; and thinking of thepatient man of Uz, I sympathized with him; for, _par parenthèse_, theseeruptions of the skin are exceedingly sore in this climate, as you mayfind out if you but come to the East Indies and eat mangoes. 

A comedy had been substituted, called El lindo Diego, the part of whichwe saw was well performed. A disagreeable feature, however, was in theposition of the prompter, who was placed in the centre of thefootlights, and kept up a continuous recitation of the play in amonotonous tone, which greatly marred the effect. 

The _Teatro Binondo_, where I saw this, is a very comfortable place, with good accommodations, splendid box for the Governor, fine airysaloons, and extensive verandahs. The price for admission wasmoderate--sixty-two and a half cents in United States currency. 

Adjourned, after witnessing a dance between the acts, with castanets, to another place of amusement, the _Teatro Tagalo de Tonda_ (wherethe performance was in the Indian tongue), which is of a less imposingstyle, but where they get along very well. 

After stopping here a short time, drove with Don Cæsar to his residencein the country, about three miles; and in both going and returning werehailed every square by a sentry, who will permit no one to pass withouta response. The watchword that night was _España_, which I was compelledto repeat so often that I heartily wished them all _in Spain_, and feltvery much inclined to send them all thither, or to some other warmclimate, but that Don C. Cautioned me not to trifle with thesepunctilious privates: as on one occasion an Englishman, annoyed as I hadbeen, having answered the fiftieth hail disrespectfully, in his ownlanguage, was marched off to the Calaboose, where he was detained allnight, and only released the next morning upon the payment of a heavyfine, with the hint that the next time he insulted a Spanish soldier, it would be better to use some language he did not understand. I, however, got back safely to the "San Fernando, " calling out continually, _Presto_, to the cochero, and _España_, to the sentries, and turned in. Next morning settled up accounts, and found the item for carriage hireconsiderable, averaging three dollars a day! Bidding adieu to Manilla, embarked in a banca--Manilla boat--and came on board ship. 

At meridian a salute was fired in honor of the day, the smoke from whichhad hardly cleared away before the anchor was tripped, and withstudding-sails set, we were standing down the bay, with a fine leadingwind. Passed the island of Corregidor, at its entrance, about sunset;and before midnight had made some fifty miles of an offing. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

 Anchor in Harbor of Hong-Kong--Hastings and Herald both off --Advantage of Newspapers--A First-rate notice--The Press of Victoria--The Friend of China--Its pugnacity--Advertising Sheets--Description of Island--Rain--Character of Chinese Inhabitants. 

Our passage to Hong-Kong was unmarked by any incident worthy of especialnotice; and we reached that harbor safely upon the second of March, andcame to anchor. Found every thing in about the same condition as whenwe left, and a large fleet of merchantmen in port; but missed the"Hastings" from her moorings, as also the "Herald. " They both hadsailed during our absence: the Hastings' to be roasted by the hotsun of Bombay; the Herald's to a warm greeting in their native isle. 

Missed the officers of these vessels very much; for a kindly feeling hadsprung up amongst us, and interchanges of courtesies had made usfriends. But thus it is in this roving life; and it may be best that theacquaintance thus stumbled upon remains but long enough to please, andis gone before the gloss of novelty is rubbed off, --before familiaritydeadens or destroys its first impression. 

There is one thing connected with this colony which adds greatly to itsinterest to a person coming from a country where "the art preservativeof all arts" sends the rays of knowledge throughout the entire lengthand breadth, to all classes and conditions, illuminating as well thesquatter's hut, as the patrician's hall. I allude to the existence ofnewspapers. Only a person who has been accustomed to them, as we are inthe United States, can appreciate the deprivation of this mental food, when placed beyond its reach, on a foreign station like this, where apaper some three months after its publication is seized upon with thegreatest delight; and news, which at home has long lost its name, isdevoured with avidity, and discussed as a dainty. How true is it, thatwe can only appreciate our blessings by their loss. Why, with all thearts lending their aid; with steam, with electricity, with the painter'sskill, condensed by the most powerful intellects; with midnight toil, and daily effort to produce that "map of busy life, " which is diurnally, almost hourly, spread out before us, and for a consideration, too, whichin many instances is not equivalent to the cost of the material uponwhich it is sketched: with the lightning harmlessly conducting along thepliant wire, stretched from one end of the continent to the other, thoughts which have annihilated time: with another element, which hasnearly obliterated space, they are spread over its face; and by anotherapplication of the same magic power are wafted hundreds and hundreds ofmiles, and thrown upon your lap, damp and reeking, ere yet the processhas had time to dry. If Faust was supposed to have been assisted by theEvil One, what would his persecutors have said, had they been shown apicture like this? What would they have said? Why, that even Satanhimself possessed not such power, and denied that to the devil, which isnow accomplished by a poor _devil_ of a printer! And yet how often do wethrow aside the teeming sheet, placed as regularly before us as ourbreakfast, and declaring it indifferent, petulantly begrudge itspublisher the poor penny of its price. Let the grumbler be stationed inthese Chinese waters for two years and upwards, and when he has beendeprived a greater part of that time of the "Sun, " that awaited hispleasure to shine, the "Herald, " ushering in the morn at his bidding, the "Times, " that never grew old, and the "News, " expressly awaiting hisperusal, --let him, I say, after perusing papers that have reached him inMarch, '51, bearing the date of the past Christmas, pick up a paper outhere, even if it be a colonial one, upon the day of its publication, andhe will sing, _Io Triumphe_, as I did. 

There are two newspapers printed in Victoria (Hong-Kong), and both ofthese, I believe, are bi-weekly. One is called the "Friend of China, andHong-Kong Gazette;" the other, "The China Mail. " The latter is thegovernment organ, and has the colonial printing. The former isindependent, and slashes away right and left, sparing neither friend norfoe, and its columns are always open to complaining correspondents. SirGeo. Bonham, the Governor, often got severely handled; and eitherbecause the government laid itself open to attack, or the editor hadsome cause for pique, it appeared to be continually "pitching into" it. Its articles were bold and forcibly expressed, and from their tenorwould suppose it exposed itself to prosecution for libel, but understoodit had steered clear of the Courts that far. Its editor shows a greatdeal of industry and perseverance in its management. His Marine List isfull and complete. Not only does he give the arrivals and departures ofshipping at Hong-Kong, but at all the other ports in China waters; alsoa full and corrected list of all vessels at Whampoa, Shanghae, andMacào, and publishes all the information that can be obtained of theextensive commerce of this part of the East, such as statistics ofimports and exports, &c. , &c. His is the ungracious task to reformabuses; perhaps, like Hamlet, he thinks "the times are out of joint, "and he "was born to set them right. " Or it may be that he is influencedby the same motive as the Irishman, who, upon the eve of a presidentialelection in the United States, was asked to cast his vote for the partywhich aspired to place their candidate upon the chair, after ousting theincumbent. Pat's first inquiry was, if it was _aginst_ the governmentthey wanted him to vote; and being told it was, assented, upon theprinciple that he always went against the government. 

In addition to these there are several advertising sheets, which aredistributed _gratis_, and exhibit the extensive trade carried on by themerchants of the colony and Canton. Even these are interesting, proving, as they do, the indomitable perseverance of the race, and bringing uppleasant remembrances by their familiar diction. 

The island of Hong-Kong, the original word in the Chinese isHoong-Keang, which means "Red Harbor, " is in about lat. 22° 17' 00''North, long. 114° East, and is one of the Ladrones, a group of rockyislands which dot this part of Canton Bay. In length it is about eightmiles, its greatest breadth not more than four, and it is separatedfrom the mainland by an arm of the sea, called the Lyemoon Passage, inwhich are several smaller islands, which vary its width, and makeadmirable hiding places for the pirates, whose existence has given tothis Archipelago its distinctive title of Ladrone. In fact the Strait isnamed after a celebrated pirate who once commanded there. 

Upon the northern side of this island of Hong-Kong, is the settlementcalled Victoria, which, as I have before stated, is generally known bythe name of the island, and a reference to it is made in a former page. 

This island is mountainous, but contains many extensive valleys--nonevery remarkable for fertility. 

The mountains are formed of a species of granite, the greater part ofwhich is of a crumbling nature, and through them runs a stratum of a redsandy formation, which, I suppose, geologists would call "poecilitic. "There are occasionally to be found solid boulders of this material, which has been used for building. But it is to be remarked that thegranite found in that state is generally detached from the largermasses, which appear to be in a state of decomposition, the particlesfrom which, washed down by the heavy summer rains, are said to addgreatly to the fatality occasioned by the decimating properties of anIndian sun. 

That old lady who asserted that "it never rains but it pours, " wouldhave been furnished with corroborative proofs had she witnessed some ofthe pluvial exhibitions at Hong-Kong. It really does pour on suchoccasions there. Talk of the deluge, when the windows of heaven weresaid to have been opened! Why if that venerable dame could have seenthe descent of these torrents, she would have thought that allobstructing barriers of the blue empyrean had been removed, and thesurcharged clouds suddenly overturned, and have come to the conclusionthat forty days of such outpouring would leave no resting-place, evenupon the lofty peak of Victoria mountain. 

They call the period from June to October the rainy season, but I havewitnessed extensive showers in nearly all the intermediate months. Theseare sudden and overwhelming. Instances are related of Coolies havingbeen caught in currents rushing down the mountain, and drowned withoutthe possibility of assistance. 

In the years 1845 and '6, from July to January, within a period of sixmonths, _ten feet of rain_ was measured by an ombrometer, having fallenat Hong-Kong. 

The island came into possession of Great Britain in 1842 by cession, buthad been occupied on the 26th of January of the previous year, inconsequence of a treaty which was afterwards rejected by the Emperor. Great inducements were held out to Chinese to settle in Victoria by theBritish government. They were guaranteed all their rights andprivileges, and allowed freedom in their religious rites, and permittedto follow their own customs. These inducements, however, appeared tohave but little effect upon the Chinese. They distrusted the "outsidebarbarians, " and it was to the interest of the Mandarins to preventemigration to the new settlement. At present much of the distrust hasworn away, and many have taken advantage of the opening made bythriving trade; still it must be admitted that the majority of Chinamento be found in Hong-Kong, are of the nature of those patriots who leave"their country for their country's good, " and the numbers seen in thechain gangs, show the manner in which they best serve the State. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

 Hong-Kong--Object of its Settlement--Its service as an Opium Depot--Views of the Opium Trade--Its History--Considered the cause and object of the War--Treaty of Nankin--Opium Trade fixed on China. 

The principal advantage possessed by Hong-Kong--I shall designate thesettlement henceforth by the name assigned to it by common consent--isthe facility its position affords for carrying on the trade in opium, which deleterious drug will continue to be introduced into China, inspite of the strongest imperial edicts, and the severest denouncementsof punishment against its consumers, so infatuated are its users, and sogoverned by the spirit of avarice its introducers. 

After the celebrated destruction of all he could get possession of, byCommissioner Lin, in June, 1839, which operated somewhat like theFrenchman's revenge upon the bank, in destroying the bill for which hehad been refused specie, not only having to be paid for by the Chinese, after an expensive war, but causing other imports of the drug to supplyits place; the English, naturally seeking a safe and suitable spot for adépôt, arranged so as to make its cession an article in a treaty withHigh Commissioner Keshen, in January, 1841, which, although it wasabrogated, and hostilities resumed, made but little difference in thedestinies of Hong-Kong, for it is well known that wherever that nationplants its foot, the marks of it are not easily obliterated. There canbe little doubt but that this was what gave the barren island moreimportance in their eyes, than the more healthy and fertile Chousan. 

The cession made, their great desire to procure an emigration of Chineseto this point, proved a wish for consumers and distributors, and thestationing at once of receiving ships in the Red Harbor, disclosed theirobject. 

In answer to orders, from Bombay and Calcutta came numerous vesselswhich here deposited their poisonous cargoes, and returning for anotherfreight, left it to be distributed by swift-sailing and armed clippers, throughout the dominions of an empire whose laws they had signed asolemn compact to respect, which laws made its delivery contraband. 

"But, " will exclaim some, "these were not the acts of the BritishGovernment. The crown lends no aid to such a traffic. " Indeed! then letus say that it is the act of the people of a colony under the fosteringcare of that crown, with the representative of the Queen directing itsaffairs. To his lordship's knowledge, I will not say to his profit, butcertainly to the pecuniary benefit of the colony, and against the mostrepeated protests of the Chinese Government are these imports andexports allowed and countenanced, until even good men of their own kindhave called out in their midst--_proh pudor_!

"Have not the colonists a right to import a drug, which is legally anarticle of import, allowed by the crown?" No! not for the avowed purposeof distributing it amongst a people, whose government protests againstits introduction; for no opium dealer will pretend to assert that it isfor consumption by the inhabitants of Hong-Kong, or foreign residents ofCanton, but must admit that it is brought expressly for transhipment tothe coasts of China, at no port of which would it be admitted upon thepayment of any duty; in fact, it is contraband! As good a right has theFrenchman to land his Bordeaux brandy upon a part of the English coast, to evade the customs. Aye! if you come to that, a better right; for uponthe payment of a duty its admission is not denied; but this article isconsidered so baneful to China, that no premium is thought equivalent tothe injury sustained by its introduction. 

The argument advanced by interested persons, that supposing they did notprosecute the trade, others would reap its advantages, bears its fallacyupon its face. For it is not permitted to us to profit by doing evil, for the reason that the possibility of performing the wicked act is inthe hands of others. 

The first opium known in China was grown in small quantities in one ofits own provinces, that of Yunnam, which was used medicinally. Itbelonged to the East India Company first to introduce it into the empireas a luxury; for we have an account of the importation of a number ofchests in one of its vessels from Bengal in 1773. Shortly after otherEnglish merchants entered in the trade, and two vessels were stationedas receiving ships, near Macào. By degrees these opium dépôts wereextended to Whampoa, Lintin, Cap-sing-Moon, and other suitable places, until its consumption began to attract the notice of the Chinesegovernment; and in the year 1800 its importation was prohibited by aspecial Imperial edict, and measures were taken to prevent its usethroughout the provinces. But the habit had become too strong to becontrolled, and its consumption increased, despite the severestpenalties. Death, transportation, confiscation of property, could notdeter those upon whom the sight of its daily operations had no effect;and the immense profits realized in the sale caused those engaged in thetraffic to incur all risks. 

From the southern, it spread to the northern and eastern coasts. Receiving vessels were stationed at Amoy, Fuh-Choo, Namoa, and Woosung, with fast clippers to supply them from the principal dépôt at Hong-Kong;and opium was smuggled almost within the precincts of the ImperialPalace. 

The government did all in its power to prevent its introduction andsale, but its efforts were fruitless, until Commissioner Lin was sent toCanton, empowered by the Emperor himself. By prompt and vigorousmeasures, he succeeded in obtaining possession of two thousand twohundred and eighty-three chests, which he publicly destroyed, and whichact was the cause of the rupture between England and China, justlycalled the Opium War. This war was continued with much success by theEnglish, and a great deal of intriguing on the part of the Chinese, until, on the twenty-ninth of August, 1842, after the British forces hadpossessed themselves of nearly all the important towns on the coast, and penetrated the Chinese empire as far as Nankin, a treaty wasconcluded between the two nations on board H. B. M. Ship Cornwallis, which was to take effect from that date, after being signed and sealedby the Plenipotentiaries of the respective parties. By this treaty, fiveports in China were to be opened to British subjects for residence andtrade. These are Canton, Amoy, Fuh-Choo, Ning-po, and Shanghae: sixmillions of dollars paid as the value of the opium destroyed by Lin: thesystem of Co-Hong abolished, and three millions paid for losses by theHong merchants to British subjects; twelve millions to defray theexpenses of the war; and the island of Hong-Kong ceded for ever to theBritish government. By the cession of this island, all future attemptsof the Chinese government to prevent the introduction of opium arefrustrated. Previously, those who dealt in this article were confined tothe insecure dépôt of a receiving vessel, liable to attack, fire, andwreck. Now they possess an island capable of a strong defence, where theopium can be imported in any quantity, under the protection of theEnglish flag, and from whence it can be exported at leisure to any pointin China. Certainly, by the acquisition of Hong-Kong the British havesecured this trade; and henceforth the "flowing poison" must spread fromhence over the length and breadth of the "Central Flowery Land, " unlessthe Celestials, with one consent, should abandon its use, --a thingalmost impossible to a people once brought under its influence. 

It has been urged by Chinese of much shrewdness, that its importation asa drug should be allowed under a heavy duty, and that the governmentthus secure a profit from the evil; but a former Emperor declared hecould never receive a revenue from the misery of his people, and thepresent government still perseveringly opposes its use. 

CHAPTER XV. 

 Trip to Macào--Disappointed in getting ashore--Mail arrived-- Get no Letters--Expression of Sentiments--Causes and Effects --Overland Mail--Idea of a Route--Happy Valley--Chase of Pirates--_A Poisson d'Avril_--Into the Typa again--Arrival of Consort--Late Dates--Catholic Fête--Depart for Shanghae--The Yang-tse-Kiang--Improvement in the appearance of the Country --Better race of Men--Banks of the Woo-sung. 

Took a trip over to Macào, for a supply of provisions, our dépôt beingthere, and having these on board, back again to Hong-Kong. Did not getashore at Macào, which was somewhat of a disappointment, as I had somekind friends there whom I wished much to see, and from whom the cruiseto Manilla had made the separation longer than usual. 

Upon the eighteenth of March the Mail Steamer came into Hong-Kong, withthe overland mail. I had been anxiously expecting its arrival, withletters for myself, but was disappointed, and gave expression to myfeelings in this wise:

 No news from home! My weary heart Beats sadly in its prison cage, And 'gainst its bars, with bound and start, A wearing, useless war doth wage. Alone, alone! Its feeble song Finds no responsive, answering tone; And it hath sung in silence long, And long, alas! may sing alone. Oh, for a sound across the main, A note affection knows so well; That it might dream of heaven again, That peace again with it might dwell; And joy delayed, at last may come, In cheerful, happy news from home. 

After this felt somewhat relieved; for the mind is like the body, andmental, as well as physical suffering, must have vent. A twinge of atooth brings forth a groan; a twitch of the heart-strings producespoetry in me: have only to hope the poetry may not have the effect ofthe toothache upon the reader. 

The overland mail is brought across the desert by the Isthmus of Suez, and reaches Hong-Kong in about forty-five days from England, and bringsdates from the United States in from 60 to 70 days, depending upon thejunction of the Atlantic steamers. Letters by it can either be sent viaSouthampton, England, or Marseilles, France; the latter is consideredthe swiftest route, the former the most secure. 

Monsoons in the China Sea affect its transit on that end of the line, and letters have been known to have reached Hong-Kong from New-Yorkduring a favorable monsoon within 60 days. 

Since the acquisition of California, our government possesses a muchspeedier route, and would find it greatly to her interest to establish aline by any of the overland routes across the Isthmus of Darien, andfrom thence by steam to Shanghae, or even Hong-Kong in China; and I donot despair of seeing the time when letters will be delivered in theseports within forty days, from the Atlantic cities. Our growing interestsin this section of the globe demand attention and some arrangement ofthis kind. 

Remained moored in the harbor of Hong-Kong until the second day ofApril, visiting the town occasionally, and strolling over the hills forexercise. 

They have some very fine roads for drives, cut at a considerable expensethrough hills and boulders of granite. The "Victoria Road" leads out, about four miles to a place called East Point, and upon it, about twomiles from the town, is a fine race-course. This course has been gottenup by subscription, and is situated in a large and beautiful valley, called "Happy Valley. " It is well named, if beauty can confer happiness, and it certainly is a principal ingredient, for has not a poet said

 "A thing of beauty is a joy forever. "

Here are held periodical races, and the sport is much enjoyed, as italways is by Englishmen. No climate is too hot, none too cold to preventit, and these trials of speed are characteristic of the nation. TheSpaniard will have his bull-fight, the Mexican pits his cocks, but JohnBull selects the noblest of quadrupeds, and infuses into him his ownemulation for superiority. 

Upon the evening of the 31st of March, had a little excitement todestroy the monotony of a life on shipboard. A report was circulatedthat a band of pirates had smuggled themselves on board the P. & O. Company's steamer "Hong-Kong, " which had left that day for Canton. 

These boats are in the habit of taking Chinese passengers at one dollara head, a very low rate, and as such, it was said a number ofdesperadoes, armed, had embarked in her. 

H. B. M. Screw propeller "Reynard, " immediately got up steam, thirty menand officers from our ship were transferred to the little Americansteamer "Spark, " and both vessels started in hot pursuit. 

The Reynard stopped at the Bogue, and her boats proceeded to scour thosewaters, whilst the Spark proceeded up the Canton river. She had not farto go, however, for about midnight the return steamer was hailed, whichreported having passed the "Hong-Kong, " all right. So both vesselsreturned to Hong-Kong, upon the morning of the first of April. 

But although the coincidence was ominous, they could not truly be saidto have caught a "_poisson d'avril_, " for there was doubtless a designagainst the steamer, which had on board a large amount of treasure, andsome of these Chinamen were afterwards tried and condemned at Hong-Kong, for the attempt. Want of unanimity or some other cause having defeatedtheir purpose. 

Upon the second of April, left for Macào, there to await the arrival ofour consort. Tried to get into our old anchorage in the Typa, and stuckupon the mud-bank again, where we remained until the fourth morning, kedging, hauling and warping, when succeeded in getting afloat bypumping out the water, and transferring shot, &c. , into a lorcha. Afterreaching the anchorage, hoisted the Portuguese flag, and fired a saluteof 21 guns in honor of the birthday of the Queen of Portugal. 

Upon the 8th instant, our consort arrived, and anchored in the outerroads; by her I received old newspapers, and a letter seven months andseventeen days after date. 

Had been ashore several times in Macào, but found little to interest meuntil the evening before Good Friday, when there was a general turn outof the inhabitants, and all the churches were brilliantly illuminated, and the altars decked with flowers. Crowds went from one church to thenext, and the principal object appeared to be that of visiting each andevery church, a continuous stream being kept up between them. 

Upon Good Friday the tragedy of the death of our Saviour was performedat the cathedral. After the crucifixion, the body was removed from thecross, and carried upon a bier, through the different streets in solemnprocession. First came the host with its usual attendants, then followedthe "accursed tree" with the bloody garment of Christ upon it. After itcame ten beautiful children, personating angels; then was borne a waxenimage to represent the corpse, followed by the virgin mother, andimmediately succeeding the two other Marys. The bishop and suite werenext, then the troops of the garrison, with arms reversed, and mournfulmusic; the rear being brought up by male citizens in mourning dressesand heads uncovered. In this line of march the procession moved throughthe principal streets, and back to the cathedral, where the body wasplaced in the tomb with solemn ceremony. 

On the first day of the week the resurrection was celebrated withappropriate joyful demonstration. At night, maskers went about thestreets, stopping at intervals to have a dance, and entering houses, where after going through a performance, they would partake ofrefreshments. 

Left Macào for Shanghae on the 25th of April, to beat up the China Seaagainst a strong N. E. Monsoon. In this passage our craft behavedremarkably well, and although quite wet, held her own, and diligentlyploughed her way through all difficulties, amongst not the leastobstructing was a heavy head sea, which made her very uncomfortable, also greatly impeded her progress. 

Made the islands off the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang on the 12th of May, and came to anchor in the river that night. Found the current verystrong, and the wind being ahead, had to await a change of tide. 

Weighed anchor with the first setting in of the flood, and got abouteight miles up the river, when had to let it go again. Thus we continueduntil the 14th, when had worked our way into the Woo-Sung or Shanghaeriver, where, although the breeze was favorable, the water shoaled sosuddenly, that we were forced to come to, just above the village ofWoo-Sung. The Woo-Sung river empties into the Yang-tse-Kiang about 40miles from its confluence with the ocean, and the city of Shanghae issituated upon the Woo-Sung, about three leagues above its junction withthe Yang-tse-Kiang, which is one of the largest rivers in China, andwashes the walls of the city of Nankin, formerly the southern capital ofthe Empire. 

Nankin is laid down in latitude 32° 5' N. , longitude 119° E. , and isabout 50 leagues from the ocean. 

The meaning of the words Yang-tse-Kiang, is, Child of the Ocean, or moreliterally, "Son of the Sea;" it is about two thousand five hundred milesin length, and its breadth and capacity entitle it to the classificationof the third river of the world. [8]

As we ascended the Woo-Sung, found a marked difference in the face ofthe country. Our former stations in China had been amongst the rockyhills of the southern Archipelago, which scarcely allowed the smallestshrub to take root upon their barren sides, and the sight of trees hadbecome rare to us. But here, upon either side, was stretched out abeautiful green plain, giving evidence of the most industriouscultivation, protected from encroachments of the river by strong andbroad levees. Substantial, comfortable farm-houses meeting the eye inevery direction, supplied the places of the insecure huts of thefishermen. Fruit trees were abundant, and the general aspect gaveevidence of a genial soil, aiding the efforts of the providenthusbandman. 

The men, too, whom we could see at work beyond the embankments, were ofa larger stature, and had a more healthy appearance than their southernbrethren. Their complexions were of a lighter hue, and here, for thefirst time, I saw a Chinaman with rosy cheeks. 

The invigorating effects of a northern climate were fully proven in theappearance of these people. They seemed to enjoy the roughest health, and were free from that care-worn look of the Chinese about Canton. Theywere clad more entirely than these also, and wore more of woollen in thematerial of their garments. Chow-chow appeared more abundant, and thechildren were the fattest little rascals I have ever seen. But I cannotcommend them for cleanliness, and must admit that their countrymennearer the sea make a better use of that cleansing element, --possiblybecause it was spread before them in larger quantities. 

It was in the spring-time, in the "merrie month of May, " when weapproached Shanghae; every thing was in bloom. There had been the usualspring rains, and the weather had settled down to that delightfultemperature, which has such a cheering effect upon the spirits. And aswe dodged the tides in the winding Woo-Sung, spots would be descriedwhich brought to mind some similar scenes at home: these would bepointed out. Another would find a resemblance in some grove, plantation, or clump of trees; and thus its banks were made sacred, and our Laresand Penates jostled the household gods that presided there. 

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 8: An English tourist, who found himself upon theYang-tse-Kiang, compared it with the Thames, admitting its superiority. I, as a Yankee, compare it with my own Mississippi; and place it next inrank to the "Father of waters, " to which stream it hears someresemblance. ]

CHAPTER XVI. 

 Shanghae--Immense number of Junks--Foreign Residences--Novelty of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of Beggars--Undertakers --Price of Coffins--Decline Trading--Description of City --Stagnant Pools--Tea Gardens--Sweet Site--The Taoutae-- Advantages of Shanghae--Departure--Ship Ashore!--Sensation. 

Shanghae is situated in about 30° 26' N. Latitude; longitude 120° 48'East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one milebelow its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As weapproached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts, belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all wecould see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from ourposition. 

Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get onshore, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the firstopportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some ofthem present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter seasoncompelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, whichwas a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southerncoast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon ascene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pass through a lineof beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, toexcite the pity of the passer-by. 

In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins areplaced above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed, when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood arenumerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from thenumbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one ofthese "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundreddollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering _that_ anegotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends. "

Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid, shallow ditch before the walls. 

Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinesetowns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed anumber of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinkingstreams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with theother properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens, where the tea wasdispensed by the cup; and when a Chinaman called for a cup, it wasperhaps in the same spirit that some of our country men demand a"smaller" of brandy, rum, or gin, though the Celestial certainly imbibesthe least noxious potion. One of these gardens formed the centre of astagnant pool, and was reached by bridges from different points. Afantastic-looking temple appeared the rendezvous, and upon the whole theeffect would have been pleasing, but for that sickly green water. 

Visited several shops, and made a few purchases of "_curios_" and wasthen perfectly satisfied to get out of such a filthy hole. 

The day after his arrival, our commander and suite paid an officialvisit to the Taoutae, --Lead man of the district, --and was well received. The Chinese who held this office had been an old Hong merchant atCanton. He gave the entertainment in the European style; and from havingconsorted so much with "Fankwies, " in his former capacity, he was quiteat home; but you may depend upon it, it is always with much reluctancethat these Celestial citizens of the Central Flowery Land dispense withany of their customs in our favor; and when they do condescend to layaside their chop-sticks, and use the knife and fork, there is policy init. What was the object in this instance, further than to honor a nationwhere "gold grows, " I did not ascertain. But we have undoubtedly risengreatly in their estimation since the acquisition of California, and theappearance of our magnificent clipper ships in their waters. 

The day following His Excellency, the Taoutae, sent on board numerouspresents, amongst which were some early fruit, sweetmeats, and two veryfine sheep. These latter, of the celebrated Shanghae breed, were thefinest specimens I have seen for a long time; and the most strikingpeculiarity about them was the preponderance of fat to their caudalextremities, the tail of each being of an entirely different formationfrom that of the European breed; and I can compare it to nothing betterthan an immense woolly mop, "in the place where the _tail_ ought togrow. " I do not know if any of these sheep have ever been imported intothe United States, or whether they would endure the voyage, butunderstood the stock is not considered equal to our own. These certainlywere covered with heavy coats of wool: of its quality I was unable tojudge, having confined my examination entirely to what lay beneath, which I can unhesitatingly pronounce to be as good mutton as I had evereaten. 

A very short stay, and an attack of sickness, prevented me fromexploring much of Shanghae, or its environs, and I learned there are athousand things worth seeing. 

The Chinese call this province the Paradise of China, and if I am notmistaken, the word has this signification when interpreted: and theyhave a proverb, which runs in this wise: "See Shanghae, and die. " I camevery near acting up to their advice, for after seeing what is previouslywritten, I was taken seriously ill; so that, had our stay beenprolonged, I would have been unable to have gone on shore, unless, indeed, in one of their fancy coffins!

Learned, however, from one of the officers of Her Majesty's brig"Contest, " who had been stationed here some time, that the climate isdelightful to those who are able to withstand the cold of the winters;that the features of the country have not been misstated, but are equalto any representation made; that game is at all times abundant, especially in autumn, when fine sport is to be obtained by those whohandle "mantons" with even moderate skill; furthermore, the followers ofquaint old Isaac, the ancient angler, need but a tithe of his art totempt the piscatory tribe from their native element. But he did affirmthat in midsummer, the mercury in the tube scarcely ever gets below100° Fahrenheit, and the action of the sun's rays upon the stagnantwater before-named, gives such an intimation to the nostrils of thestate of the atmosphere, as to render the use of the eudiometerunnecessary. 

Got under way from our moorings early in the morning of Monday the 19th, and dropped down with the tide; getting out of the Woo-Sung, anchored inthe Yang-tse-Kiang, on the 20th, passed Saddle Island, and dismissingthe pilot, headed for Amoy, at which port we were to look in on ourreturn. 

We had proceeded along pretty well until the morning of the 27th, whenabout three o'clock in the morning watch, as I was lying awake in myapartment, heard the officer of the deck give the order for tackingship--"Ready about"--and after the boatswain's pipe to "Stations. ""Ready, ready, " when she received a shock, as from the concussion of aheavy sea, then another, and another, which soon convinced me that theship was ashore. This was certainly unpleasant, as I had no doubt butthat we were at that time twenty miles from land, and the idea of acoral reef in that position, was premonitory of a salt-water bath. Before the call of "All hands save ship, " was given, I was upon deck, and found that she had grounded upon a bank on the northern coast of theisland of Formosa, having been swept by an unusual current over thirtymiles in the course of twelve hours, an event altogether unlooked for, and which would have baffled the skill of the most experiencednavigator; our chart, upon examination, also proving to be incorrect. Luckily it was ebb tide when she went on, and after getting out all theboats, and lightening the ship by throwing overboard shot and startingwater, she was got off, after having been aground about eight hours, andthumping terribly. 

It was the first time I had ever felt the effects of a heavy sea upon aship ashore, and never wish to experience them again. 

With our armament and stores we were probably as heavily laden as amerchant vessel of greater tonnage would have been with cargo, but beingmore strongly built, were of course better able to withstand the shocks. 

Every time she struck, the top-gallant masts would sway like saplings, and the ship tremble throughout her whole frame, indeed, a homely remarkof one of her crew was very expressive of her condition: "Why the oldship has got the hiccups, " and her motions were truly resembling thoseof a human being in convulsive throes. 

Notwithstanding we got off so easily, yet our situation had in it muchof peril, and we were at one time in some danger. 

The inhabitants of this part of Formosa are savages, some say cannibals. They had gathered in great numbers on the beach, some two or threethousands, and appeared divided into different clans, awaiting ourbreaking up. Had we fallen into their hands, defenceless, there was butlittle chance of escaping, so greatly did they outnumber our crew. 

As it was, we got off barely in time, for it commenced to "blow greatguns" about the time we got afloat, which created such a sea as wouldsoon have knocked us to pieces, and even before we had way on, the surfwas beating so violently upon the beach, as to have precluded allpossibility of reaching the shore in an armed body. 

Under double-reefed topsails we beat over to Amoy, and the next morningmade the entrance to that port, but had to stand off and on the wholeday and night, the sea being so high as to make it dangerous to attemptto enter the harbor. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

 Amoy--Its Trade--Cause of Decay--Infanticide--Manner of destroying Female Infants--China Woman's Confession-- Environs--British and American Cemeteries--The Fatal Rock--Koo-lung-Seu--Chinese Gunnery--Chinese Customs-- Marriage--Death--Manner of Mourning--Pagoda of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan. 

On the morning of the 29th of May, came into the port of Amoy andanchored. Communicated with our Consul, who stated that our commerce wasvery small at that point, and although it is connected with the teadistrict, but five American vessels had entered the port for the pasttwo years. 

Of all the "five ports, " Amoy appears to have the least foreign trade, and notwithstanding its contiguity to the region of China, in which itsprincipal article of export is produced, enjoys but little commerce. 

This is in a measure to be attributed to the difficulty of entering itsbay at all seasons, but is mainly caused by the apathy and lack ofenterprise of its inhabitants. They appear to be less disposed to tradewith foreigners than any other Chinese we visited, and in their shopswere perfectly indifferent whether we became purchasers or not, using noexertions to effect sales. This was so opposite to what we had alwaysfound to be a prominent feature of Chinese character as to exciteremark. In Canton, Macào, and Shanghae, they had pressed their waresupon us, but in Amoy you might examine the contents of a shop, withoutbeing importuned to purchase a single article. 

The principal trade appeared to be in opium. There were two receivingships in the bay, and from the general appearance of the people, wouldbe led to suppose that a great deal of it was smoked by them, and thisaccounted for their apathy and want of energy. 

It must end so, that this opium trade will be the ruin of China, for inits use it not only enervates the people, but it is procured by drainingthe country of the precious metals, and it may be fairly stated, thatfor every ounce of opium brought into the country, nearly its weight inSycee silver has been extracted. 

The town of Amoy presents the same features as Shanghae, and otherChinese cities: streets narrow and filthy, and dirt abundant, an equalnumber of offensive smells pervade the atmosphere, and as manydisgusting sights offend the eye; beggars, to be sure, are not so commonas at Shanghae, but the inhabitants have a squalid look, as if _too lazyto beg_. Infanticide--or if I may be allowed to coin a word for thispeculiar kind of child murder on account of its being confined entirelyto the female sex--"Puellacide" is said to prevail to a greater extentin this region than even in Canton itself. Whilst sons are considered anhonor, and their growth looked upon as a matter of profit, the givingbirth to a daughter is proportionably a disgrace, and the rearing of ita disadvantage, consequently the female infant is generally allowed buta few moments existence in "this breathing world, " and is usuallystrangled by the hands of its unnatural mother immediately upon itsbirth. The manner in which this act is said to be performed, is byfilling up the mouth of the babe with rice, and holding its nostrilsclosed with the hand until suffocation is produced. 

It is hard to suppose that a mother can thus act towards her offspring, but it is known to be too true, and it may be a better fate than isreserved for many of the sex whose lives have been spared, for souseless an incumbrance are females considered in the families of thelower orders, and so little regard have their parents for them, thateven before they grow up, they are often sold for the worst purposes. 

A Chinese woman, who had been converted to Christianity, confessed, thatin her ignorance, she had destroyed _seven_ of her own infants, femalesof course, not considering the custom of her country, at that time, acrime. 

Although there is but little to interest one in the town of Amoy, thereare several pleasant places in its vicinity. Yet every where appearedthe evidence of "decay's effacing fingers. " On the opposite side of thebay was once a flourishing site, which previous to the attack of theEnglish had been the residence of the wealthier citizens, mandarins, etc. When the British troops invested this place, they occupied thesebuildings as barracks; and being withdrawn after the treaty, left themin a ruinous condition. They have not been used since, and the largegardens, evidently at one time cultivated with much taste, have now runto waste. In these were romantic grottoes, in which are curiously carvedresting-places, cut out of the rock. 

The English burial ground is in this neighborhood; it is a small place, and walled in. The mortality amongst the troops was very great duringthe occupancy of this place, and this area is said to contain over aregiment of soldiers. 

The American cemetery is more prepossessing in appearance. It issituated in a picturesque valley, full of beautiful trees, and did notcontain many graves. From it there is a fine view of the bay andislands, and the city of Amoy. 

In crossing the bay on our return, there was pointed out a singularlyshaped rock in height about thirty feet, with a narrow base, andswelling out as it ascended, in appearance similar to a boy's top. TheChinese have a startling prophecy connected with it, which is, that whenit shall fall, the present dynasty of China will also decline; remindingone of the Latin saying, "When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall. " ButRome has fallen, and the Coliseum still stands! Will the parallel holdgood between this rock and China? The island of Koo-lung-Seu, when theBritish made the attack upon Amoy, appears to have been well fortified, but the Chinese committed a great error in the _training_ of their guns, or rather in placing them so as to have been unable to take any otherrange than point blank! Here is a fort mounting upwards of fifty guns oflarge calibre, which would have commanded the bay, but the embrasuresare so small as barely to admit the muzzle of the gun, the breech ofwhich was imbedded in the earth. These were soon silenced, as may wellbe supposed, by the attacking squadron taking a position beyond theirrange, and training their own batteries to bear upon the Chinesegunners within, who kept blazing away into the unresisting air, whilstthe British riddled the fort at leisure. The mandarin in charge, aTartar, who would not be caught, drowned himself. 

From Mr. Bradley, our intelligent Consul at Amoy, who appears to havedevoted much time to the study of the Chinese and their customs, obtained a great deal of information respecting them. 

In regard to marriages, he stated, that when a Chinaman considershimself rich enough to take a wife, he informs the object of his choice_by letter_, which is usually a sheet of paper some five or six feet inlength; this is shown to her parents, and if the match is thought aproper one, she is allowed to make known her compliance in a_billet-doux_ of equal proportions. After this interchange, the fatherof the selected fair calls upon the proposing party to arrangepreliminaries, amongst not the least important of which is the paymentof a sum of money agreed upon between them; this fund is _supposed_ tobe for the furnishing of the bride. 

The happy day is then appointed, and when it arrives a plentiful supplyof edibles flows in from the friends of both families to the house ofthe bridegroom; from whence are dispatched a number of his friends tocarry the bride to her future home; by these she is borne along in asedan chair, closely veiled, accompanied by music, and is received byher future "lord and _master_" seated in state, and surrounded by thetablets of his ancestors; then for the _first_ time in his life he_beholds the face_ of the woman of his choice!

The marriage being consummated, three days succeeding are devoted tofestivities. 

When a woman has been so unfortunate as to become a widow, especiallywithout male issue, she testifies her grief in every imaginable manner, filling the air with her lamentations, tearing her loosened hair, andgiving all the demonstrations of the deepest sorrow. At each meal foodis placed at the accustomed seat, and the absentee is entreated toreturn and partake in the most endearing terms. This is continued for aseason, when, as if tired of entreaty so unavailingly lavished, and inthe true spirit of her sex, the widow changes her tune, and commences toabuse the "dear departed. " For one year this practice is kept up, afterthat, twice a month for three years; then only upon the anniversary ofhis death. Have not been apprised of any success having attended theseapplications, or whether the applicants were sincere in theirexpressions; but am rather inclined to doubt the sincerity of themourner, excepting in cases where male issue is desired, and then theirgrief has a selfish motive. 

There was an instance in a Chinese house opposite the Consulate, where awoman, who had been deprived of her partner by death, a short timepreviously, was calling him to breakfast, and deprecating his delay inno measured terms. 

The Pagoda, or tower of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan, is a conspicuous object nearAmoy. It is one thousand seven hundred and twenty-eight feet above thelevel of the sea, and an excellent mark for vessels making the harbor. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

 Formosa--Description of the Island--Its productions--Coal Mines--Metals--The Dutch Possessions--Their Expulsion--Proper policy of Civilized Powers. 

The island of Formosa--from going on which we so narrowly escaped--isdestined from its position and importance, to become, at a time not longfuture, a place of considerable trade for both Europeans and Americans, as it is now indeed with the Chinese of the neighboring provinces ofFo-Kien and Che-Kiang on the main land. 

As its name implies, it is a "beautiful" island, especially on itssouthern extremity, which has been described as a fruitful garden, producing delicious fruits and grain of every description, and exportingvast quantities of rice, sugar, tobacco, and camphor. 

The Chinese call it Te-wan; it extends between the degrees of twenty andtwenty-six north latitude, is about fifty miles wide, and is separatedfrom the province of Foo-Kien, of which it is a dependency, by a channelof from eighty to ninety miles in breadth. 

It is equidistant from Japan and the Philippine Islands, being about onehundred and fifty miles from each, and appears to have been placeddirectly in the highway of commerce. 

As yet it has been but little explored, and of its harbors, with theexception of Kelung, not much is known. This harbor is on its northernextremity, in latitude 25° 9' north of Greenwich, by a late observation. There is a good anchorage here for vessels drawing not over sixteenfeet, and water and supplies can be obtained from the town, whichcontains about two thousand inhabitants, said to be very civil andobliging. They are principally engaged in fishing and the cultivation ofthe land, which is set down as luxuriant in the extreme. 

Coal is said to be very abundant in this neighborhood, and manyexcavations have been made in the surrounding hills, some of them havingbeen tunnelled over forty feet, and a distinct stratum exhibited ofabout four feet thick, hard and easily detached, lying between blue softshale and sandstone. The quality of this coal was described by a personwho visited the mines, to be very good, heavy, easily detached, ignitingreadily, and burning with a bituminous gassy flame, leaving a very smallquantity of ashes of a reddish white color. From specimens which Ihave seen, do not suppose it equal to the English Cannel or our ownPittsburgh; but have known coal of a not much superior quality to havebeen produced from the first workings of mines in the valley of theOhio, and who can say but that much better veins exist, of which theseare but the openings?

In this however does not consist entirely the mineral wealth of thisprolific island, and in the range of mountains which run through itscentre is found gold and silver, iron ore and copper. Whilst in thevalleys at their feet, the labors of the husbandman are bountifullyrewarded in extensive crops of sugar and rice, so easily produced fromthe luxuriant soil of a southern latitude. 

The Pang-hoo or Pescadore Islands, which lie between it and theprovince of Foo-Kien, compose with Formosa, one Foo, or departmentof that province, and are subject to its Foo-yuen or Governor. Thesedependencies are divided into six districts, five of which are withinthe limits of Formosa, the sixth comprising the Pescadore Islands. 

But although the Chinese government asserts supremacy over Formosa, andsubjects its inhabitants to tribute, yet amongst the aborigines areseveral tribes, which it has never been able to subdue, and who as yetsuccessfully dispute its authority, overrun the peaceably disposeddistricts, and prevent this extensive island from being more thoroughlyexplored, and its vast resources fully developed. It was upon theirinhospitable shore that we came near being cast, and from their tendermercies made so narrow an escape. 

In the year 1624, the Dutch, being then powerful at sea, made an attackupon the Portuguese settlement at Macào; from which being repulsed, their Admiral sought refuge on Formosa, and taking possession of thePescadore Islands, attacked Chinese junks, trading in those waters, andplundering them, disposed of their cargoes on the neighboring island ofJapan. 

By permission from the reigning dynasty of China, then tottering to itsfall, they were allowed to establish a factory on the S. W. Coast ofFormosa, where they erected a fort, which they named Fort Zealand. This settlement became quite flourishing, from the fact that thedisturbances on the main land drove numbers of the more peaceablydisposed Chinese to the security of this new retreat on the beautifulisland. 

A number of Spaniards from Manilla, noting the advantageous position ofthe island, attempted a settlement on its northern side, but it was soonbroken up by the Dutch, who drove them away, and held undisputed swayover it until 1644, when the Tartars conquered China, who naturallybecoming jealous of this band of foreigners so near their shores, madearrangements with the celebrated Coxinga--son of him who had beeneducated by the Portuguese and baptized Nicholas--to repair to Formosa, and root out this growing power. 

Having, by professions of peace, induced the Dutch Admiral sent for itsprotection to withdraw his forces and return to Batavia, he approachedthe settlement with a large force, and landing, was immediately joinedby his countrymen the Chinese who had emigrated thither. With theseadded to his command, Coxinga demanded Formosa from the Dutch, requiringthem to depart at once or "hoist the red flag, " that is, prepare tofight. This they did, and after sustaining a siege of nine months, surrendered the fort, and were allowed to proceed to Java. 

Had they conciliated the Chinese, who had come to live amongst them, they might have had their support, and retained possession of theisland, but by barbarous treatment they had alienated them, so thatCoxinga found in them willing allies. 

Since the expulsion of the Dutch, there has been no attempt atsettlement on this desirable island by any European power; which, whenits fertility and position are considered, is somewhat remarkable. As Ihave before stated, its productions are distributed by Chinese junks, ofwhich between two and three hundred are engaged in carrying rice to theneighboring provinces, and nearly one hundred are said to be employed intransporting the article of sugar alone to one single port in China, that of Tein-tsin. The trade between it and Canton is also said to beconsiderable, camphor being the principal export thence. 

But if gain will not induce civilized powers to occupy this as yetundeveloped island, the cause of humanity should interest some suchmaritime nation as England or America, to at least chastise thosebarbarous savages who overrun its eastern shores; it is from these thatmany a peaceful mariner, coasting them in trading voyages, having beencaught in those dreadful Typhoons which ravage those seas, and thrownhelpless into their hands, has met with a cruel and torturing death, andfrom the fact of numberless shipwrecks along that coast, of which nosurvivors have remained, it is but fair to judge that the hapless crewshave only escaped the angry waters, to meet a more violent end on theseinhospitable shores. An instance occurred in the crew of the "Larpent, "an English merchant vessel, which went ashore here, about the time wepassed the island, of which but four escaped, and these by a miracle. They saw their unfortunate shipmates lanced, and decapitated, andthemselves, being hotly pursued, escaped in their boat, and landing at apoint unobserved, were, whilst pushing their way to the interior, captured and sold as slaves, from which condition they were released bya chief from another part of the island, and put on board the"Antelope, " an opium clipper, which brought them to Shanghae. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

 Leave Amoy--Arrive in Macào Roads--Live ashore--Well guarded --Night calls--Ventriloquist at Typa Fort--Ordered on board --Up to Whampoa--Clipper Ships--Over to Hong-Kong--Coronation day--Independence day--Hurried on board--The mail--Ty-foongs. 

Came to anchor in Macào Roads on the 4th of June, having made thepassage to Shanghae and back in just forty days, including stoppagethere, at Amoy, and delay from getting aground on Formosa. 

Left Amoy on the 31st of May, and ran down the coast with favoringbreezes, nothing worth noting having occurred since our departure fromthe latter port. 

Went ashore on the first opportunity, and found there awaiting ourarrival several letters and packages of newspapers, which had reached byoverland mail during our absence. This was indeed a treat, and repaid usfor all the inconveniences of our voyage. A good piece of news also wasreceived, to wit, that there was a probability of our leaving thestation for home in the fall. 

Suffering still from sickness, I was allowed to take up my lodgings onshore, and duly installed myself in apartments No. 7, Senate Square, where I witnessed the Governor's daily visit to the Senate house, andthe relieving of the guard; but as all situations have their drawbacks, was greatly annoyed by the unearthly noises made by the sentries duringthe night. Not a person could pass, but he was hailed, and every halfhour I was awakened by the guard yelling out some unintelligible words, which were caught up in every direction, in the most discordant tones, until echo herself grew hoarse and disgusted with the repetition. I waswell guarded to be sure, but could have dispensed with the attention, and would have bargained for less honor, with an equal diminution ofnoise!

The Portuguese lay great stress upon these night calls; and at the Typafort, where we lay, which but two or three soldiers garrison, it wassaid they had a ventriloquist, who sent the word _Alerto_, with variouschanges, throughout the works. 

After one week's residence _en grand seigneur_, was obliged to give upmy _casa_, and repair on board. Orders being to go up to Whampoa, aboutthe confounded insurrection. 

On the seventeenth of June, came to anchor in the "Reach" again, andfound every thing as usual there, the standing joke of the Chinesehaving taken Canton not being realized. 

Saw there some of the first of those Yankee clippers that have sincealmost monopolized the China carrying trade. The "Sea Serpent, " boundfor the United States, passed close to us, and a magnificent specimen ofnaval architecture she was. She excited a strong yearning for home, andgladly would I have exchanged on board of her. 

These clippers, I then noted, were to effect a change in East Indiamen, such as would have been hooted at ten years ago. Then, speed was asecondary consideration, and capacity for carrying deemed the _sine quanon_. Now, speed is the object; and it has been proved, that in makingquick trips, with a lesser cargo, in suitable seasons, the advantage isgreater than in freighting larger vessels, that in consequence of theirgreater capacity sail slower. 

The anniversary of our arrival in China came round whilst we lay atWhampoa, and I celebrated it by a trip to Canton, to make an officialcall upon our Chargé d'Affaires, and returned the same day. 

Our only amusements here were strolling over the hills, and saunteringthrough Bamboo and Newtown--the novelty of which places having sometime worn off--and passing away the evening at the bowling alleys, and billiard room, where prices were high and refreshments execrable. However, here we got exercise even at a high rate; and this exercise isconsidered so desirable, that persons from Canton--a distance of tenmiles--resort to this place. 

From Whampoa departed for Hong-Kong, where found a number of oldfriends. We arrived there upon Coronation day, which was beingcelebrated with all honor. The Queen--God bless her!--was toasted, andthe healths of the King consort, and all the royal family drunk. In theevening, the devotion of her loyal subjects was expended in a brilliantdisplay of fireworks, which was untimely quenched by a sudden shower. 

Celebrated our own "Independence day" for the second time in China, whilst we lay in the harbor of Hong-Kong; and H. B. M. FrigateCleopatra, and brig Lily, were dressed, and fired national salutes withus;--a pretty compliment, and as it should be. An editor in Hong-Kongmade it the subject of unseemly remark, but am confident he had not thecountenance of one of his subscribers. A dinner was given in honor ofthe occasion at our Consul's. It was a splendid affair, several ladyresidents of Hong-Kong gracing the board with their presence. Thegentlemen kept it up long after they had retired, and the union of theStates was cemented, --representatives from nearly all beingpresent, --amongst the hours

 "Ayont the twal. "

We lay at anchor off Hong-Kong until the eleventh of July, when receivedorders to proceed over to Macào, and join our consort there. I was outof the ship when the orders came, and of course knew nothing about them;had spent the evening on board H. M. S. S. Minden, where I occupied thestate-room of an absent officer, an acquaintance. The next morning, whilst breakfasting, my attention was directed, through the port, tosome unusual movement on board our ship; such as a boat being dispatchedto the Cleopatra, sending aloft topgallant yards, and unshipping thecompanion ladder. This last movement was decisive. Sailing orders mustbe on: and bringing my meal to a hasty conclusion, got on board to findthe messenger shipped, and all hands heaving away at the capstan. Soonwe had sail on, and I did not get on board a minute too soon to secure apassage to Macào. 

After reaching that port, and concluding the business for which we hadbeen summoned, received permission to exchange our rolling and pitchingin the outer roads, for the snug and quiet anchorage in the Typa; andour old pleasant trips to the shore were again resumed: rambles alongthe Governor's Road, and over the hills, filling up the afternoons of"liberty days, " and suppers at "Frank's"--Hotel--at night addingconsiderably to the amount of monthly mess bills. 

The arrival of the mail was always an event with us; and thismonth--August--it reached Macào unusually early, having been receivedon the eighth day: just fifty-eight days from New-York. I do not knowwhat we would have done without this mail, the anticipation of itsarrival keeping our minds occupied, and the business of answeringletters and mailing them filling up the monthly intervals. We closedour correspondence in the last week of the month, expecting dates fromhome during the first week of the next. 

Whilst we lay in the Typa had strong indications of a Ty-foong, but itpassed over with some bad weather, high winds, and squalls. Feltperfectly secure at our anchorage, but used the precaution of bendingthe sheet-cables, sending down yards, and housing topgallant-masts. Asit was, had considerable of a blow, and the Ty-foong ravaged the coastsin our vicinity. 

The Ty-foong of the East is synonymous with the hurricane or tornado ofthe West Indies, as the monsoon may be said to assimilate with thetrade-winds of the opposite hemisphere; but this "strong wind" blowswith even more violence, and has a circular motion. Ships have had theirmasts bodily twisted out of them, and many, more unfortunate, have beeningulfed in the maelstrom created by its fury. From its veering sosuddenly to every point of the compass, the usual precautions againstordinary gales afford but little protection. A heavy, boding swellprecedes, to give notice of the dreaded Ty-foong. The aquatic birds, with natural instinct, take wing and fly before its approach; whilst onshore the air is filled with insects in constant motion. So indicative, indeed, is this flight of insects, that the Chinese call them Ty-foongBugs. 

The inhabitants predicate the recursion of these storms by numerousother signs, and are prompt to take every precaution to avoid theireffects. At Macào, upon this occasion, the proprietors of the "Tanka"and "pull away" boats drew them on shore, some distance from thelanding, and close to the houses. In these, the boat folk, men, women, and children, stowed themselves away, prepared to weather the Ty-foong. The walls of the dwellings on the Praya forming a good lee, they lashedtheir boats as well as they were able, and secured the bamboo coverings. Not a boatman could be prevailed upon to launch his craft for love ormoney. Some of them, indeed, from the habit of their profession, wouldsay, "Suppose have give ten, twelve dollar, so;" but if you appeared foran instant to incline to their extortionate demand, they would at oncechange their tune, and shaking both head and tail, --please to rememberthat Chinese boatmen _have_ tails to their heads, --cry out, withdeprecatory gestures, "Ei-yah! how can make walkee? my tinkee cancatchee too muchee Ti-fung!" and then slide back beneath their bambooshelter, with a decisive "No can!"

The season when Ty-foongs generally prevail in these latitudes, --andit is only within a few degrees upon these coasts that they rage, --isbetween July and October, inclusive of those months. They form aserious impediment to the navigation of the China Sea, almost amountingto its obstruction at this period; for the inducement must be great toencounter such a risk. H. B. M. Ship Hastings experienced a severe onelate in October, and the new American clipper ship "Witchcraft, " cameinto Victoria harbor on the third of December, 1851, having encountereda strong Tyfoong in 142° east, which carried away all her topmasts, andjib-boom, narrowly escaping going down. Both these vessels were caughtunexpectedly, neither expecting to find Ty-foongs in the latitudes inwhich they were at that season of the year. 

CHAPTER XX. 

 Ty-foong passed--Pleasant Season--Theatrical Exhibition--The Macàense--Philharmonic Society--Italian Opera--Awaiting Orders for Home--Thoughts of Home and Friends--Idea suggested by the Setting Sun--Poetry--Maladie de Pays--Its effects upon the Swiss--A Remedy--My own Experience--And manner of Cure. 

The symptoms of the Ty-foong having passed over, and all fears of itsrecurrence at an end, time went pleasantly by at Macào. The temperaturewas most delightful, this season being certainly the most agreeable inthis part of China, a number of foreign residents from Canton andHong-Kong adding to its gayety. 

The Portuguese officers, aided by the citizens, got up for ouramusement a theatrical exhibition, at the old rooms formerly occupiedby the Philharmonic Society. The representations were very good, andthe accommodations for the audience excellent. Saw the _elité_ of Macàoat these performances, and must say the Macàense are not without agoodly share of female beauty, although it is not apparent upon alloccasions, for the decline of the place has affected the finances ofthe families, and their pride will not allow them to exhibit theirpoverty upon common occasions, not that there was any evidence of ithere, for the ladies were all richly as well as tastily dressed. 

It is perhaps not generally known that opera once flourished in Macào. An Italian company, who had carried their "sweet voices" around theworld, once made these walls vocal with the music of Donnizetti, Bellini, and others of their great maestros, and "Lucia di Lammermoor"lamented her lost love, and the amiable Amina sobbed forth hersomnambulic sorrows for her false lover, upon these very boards. 

The performance given upon this occasion was not in opera, but dramatic, something about the troubles of a Jew--not _le Juif Errant_--althoughthis member of his tribe was off and on sufficiently to have given him aclaim to this title. 

An interval, filled up by promenading to some pretty good music, wassucceeded by a funny farce, which sent the audience laughing to theirbeds. 

We awaited here the arrival of the Commodore, whom we had heard was tobring us our release, and send us home immediately upon his reaching thestation. Had not a full view of the part of the horizon from which theflagship might be expected to emerge, but many were the glasses directedto the mouth of the Typa, from which a glimpse of the ocean could begained, and the quarter-masters of each watch were repeatedly ordered tokeep a good look-out. The fact was, we were getting tired of China, anddespite all the kind favors showered upon us, longed for home:

 "Breathes there a man with soul so dead, Who never to himself has said: This is my own--my native land!"

And thoughts of home and dear ones there, would intrude, and strongdesires once more to tread the soil of that loved native land, and topress the hands of early and long-tried friends, could not be entirelyrepressed, although not altogether just to "those we had here. "

But we had been now nearly two years absent. Two years on shipboard is along, a very long time--try it if you doubt--and had seen nearly allthat was worthy of observation within our reach. Seas of immense extentrolled between us and our homes, and the circumference of the globe hadto be traversed ere we could expect to meet our friends. No wonder thenthat we so ardently desired to be allowed to point our prow towards theWest, or watching the retiring beams of the setting sun, envied that orbthe privilege that action gave, of kissing eyelids and gazing into eyes, on which we were wont to gaze "lang syne, " nor under the influence ofsuch thoughts that we should give them vent in this manner:

 "Farewell, my love, the evening gun Has boomed in echo o'er the sea; My soul goes with that sinking sun, Which sheds its rising beams on thee. 

 "May it bring to thee peace and joy, Tho' here, it care and darkness leaves; For gloomy thoughts my soul employ, Which now no light from thine receives. 

 "Oh, for one old accustomed smile! That dark eye's glance of lustrous light; But these are distant many a mile, And I can only sigh--Good Night!

 "Good night, my love, whilst darkness lowers Around our lone and silent bark, Morning smiles sweetly on thy bowers, And greeting, upwards flies the lark. 

 "Thou art the sun that glads my way, Thine _eye_ the beam of life to me, Thy _smile_ can turn my night to day, As upwards speeds _my soul_ to thee. "

I have before explained the causes which operated upon me to producesuch effects as above, and hope the reader, if ever he or she shouldhave been afflicted in either of the ways I have mentioned, will atleast tolerate the method of alleviation. 

This "_maladie-de-pays_" is a horrible sensation, worse thansea-sickness, I ween, and I can fully sympathize with the poor Swiss, who are said to have fallen victims to it in the armies of Napoleon. Heshould have allowed pens, ink, and any quantity of writing paper; theymight have relieved their minds by _scribbling_. Music is also said tobe a capital cure, although the "_Ranz des Vaches_" did not succeed; butI judge from the cheerful countenances of those of their countrymen whoare in the habit of parading our streets with a hand organ and monkey, and enlivening us with the air of

 "Arouse thee, arouse thee, my merry Swiss boy. "

For myself I have only experienced the malady twice. The firstattack occurred, when with a heart rather more tender than at thepresent writing, I was left amongst a parcel of strange inquisitiveboys, at a boarding-school in the country, at what then appeared tomy unsophisticated mind away "'tother side of yonder;"--I shallnever forget, although I may laugh at it now, the feeling of utterdesolateness that came over me, or how low sank my little heart, even to the very soles of my stockings, when the Dominie, whose facewas fast forgetting the smiles it had worn in my good parents'presence, inquired in a tone half hypocritical, half ironical: "Whatdoes the young gentleman want now?" and I blubberingly answered, "I--want--to--go--go--home. " I recovered from that attack with theaid of counter irritation by the application of birch, and emollientsin the shape of scribbling verses to the metre of "dulce--dulcedomum. " The effects of the second are now before the reader, fromwhich I opine he is the greatest sufferer, and this is dispersed bymusic, for the "retreat" has just been beaten, and I shall turn in. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

 Haul up all standing--Boat Races--Interest in the sport-- Excitement general--Arrangements--Jockeyism--Regatta-- Preparations--The Start--The Race--The Result--Launch and First Cutter--Race described con-amore--Suggestion of an Old Salt--Satan and Sailors. 

But I must cease my digressions, lest my sickness become epidemic, andextend to my readers, in which event I should fear they would not be "athome" to me. To continue:

To fill up the time, and give some relaxation to the men, had boat racesbetween the different crews in the "Typa. "

It was surprising to see with what interest the sailors entered into thesport, and the excitement produced by the contests; bets ran highamongst them, and Tattersalls, previous to the great St. Leger Stake, could not produce a greater scene of excitement than did our top-gallantforecastle and forward gangways, during the preparations for a race; theclaims of different candidates for an oar would be carefully canvassed, and the coxswains became, for the nonce, men of vast importance, forupon their _ipse dixit_ in selecting the crews, the success of the boatswas thought mainly to depend. Then the non-combatants had their favoriteboats and men, and their suggestions would be strongly urged. 

The enthusiasm even extended to the officers, and produced an excitementas deep, if not so loud, upon the quarter deck and poop. Sums wereraised amongst them, and set up as prizes for the crew of the winningboat, and suppers on shore, and segars in hand, hung upon the success ofthe second or third cutters--the first cutter and the launch. 

Every plan known to experienced boatmen was resorted to; everyunnecessary impediment that could offer the slightest obstructionremoved; the bottoms of the boats, after having been well scraped, were_secretly greased_, and the pintals of the rudder carefully oiled, theweight of the oars well calculated, and the trim of the boats arrangedby placing breakers of water fore, aft, or amidships, as it was thoughttheir weight might be required to give a proper balance. 

The oars, too, were carefully overhauled, scraped, pointed, and newlyleathered; the rowlocks, in which they were to be placed, arranged, andnothing that skill or experience could suggest, was neglected to securesuccess. 

_Preparation for the race. _--The hour big with fate to the crews of thesecond and third cutters approached. One bell in the afternoon watch hadbeen struck, and preparations commenced. The respective crews havingtaken the lightest kind of a dinner, divested themselves of allunnecessary clothing, tied handkerchiefs around their heads, and makingtheir belts taut around their bodies, stood by, ready for a call. Theboats, their oars all in, and extra ones secured handily to thegunwales, in case of accident, with a coxswain in each, lay at either ofthe booms, --second cutter on starboard, third on the port side; and thearrangement was that they should both lay upon their oars and await thesignal, which was to be the dropping of a handkerchief by the umpire, who was first to see that neither had the advantage. A few minutesbefore two bells, the boatswain's mate piped away the crews, and theydescended into their respective boats by the booms. 

_The start. _--After being seated, and having peaked their oars by way ofa salute, the order was given to "let fall;" splash went their oars intothe water, and anxiety was depicted upon every countenance. "Take yourstations"--"Back your oars, third cutters"--"Steady there, secondcutters, " were the orders given and repeated with only an alteration inthe titles of the boats, as the crew of each with a natural impulsestrove to prevent the other from stealing a length upon them; from thisimpatience it was found impossible to make their position exactlyrelative; but at last the handkerchief was dropped, and off they shotwith the velocity of arrows from a bow, the second cutter having theadvantage of half a length in the start. 

_The race. _--The distance to be rowed was one mile and a half to astake boat, round that, and back. The prize, a bag containing sixty-fourdollars, suspended from an oar in the stake boat. The second cutterhaving the start, kept the distance open between her and her competitor(now extended a full length), which pulled up steadily in her wake; thecoxswain of the leading boat dexterously anticipating all his pursuer'sefforts to pass, and keeping him dead in his wake until they had shotover half the distance between the ship and the stake boat, when, by adesperate effort, the third cutter appeared to leap bodily out of thewater, her oars quivering like the wings of a bird, from the impulsegiven by those muscular arms. Side by side, their oars almostoverlapping, they dashed like the wind towards the prize. Now came thetug--a single tarpauling would at one moment have covered them both andretained its position, so steadily did they pull; it was apparently atie, when an unusual movement was observed on board the third cutter. 

_The result_--This was caused by the breaking of the bow oar, whichsnapping short off, dropped into the water, and fouled the starboardoars; not an instant was spent in shipping another, but the advantagehad been lost. The second cutter, with her full power, shot ahead, rounded the stake boat and led the way back; her opponent recoveringfrom the accident, and following so closely, that the two appeared likeone boat of unusual length as they approached; but the struggle wasunequal. Two third cutters, unable to stand the additional labor, gaveout. The flag was hauled down from the fore as the second cutter passedthe line, and the third, contending to the last, came in about threeboats' lengths astern. 

The next race was between the launch and the first cutter; the launch, aheavy boat, called by sailors the "Purser's Gig, " pulling sixteen oars;first cutter, a fast craft, with a crack crew, pulling just eight. Thiswas _the_ race of the Regatta, and excited much interest. Various werethe opinions as to the result, and to use a phrase of the turf, "betswere even;" not that any serious amounts of money were risked, for thatwould have been "_contra bonos mores_;" but several suppers and sundryboxes of segars hung on the balance. 

Both the boats were put in capital order, and the crews of both weresanguine of success. The launchers depended upon the power theypossessed in a double bank of oars; the first cutters upon the qualitiesand lightness of their boat. Impelled by these hopes, they started. Ihappened to be in the launch; we took the lead after a fair start, andled the cutter around the stake boat, a distance of more than a mile;but that which had given the launch a great advantage on the firststretch, proved a serious drawback on her return, the prevalence of avery high wind, which increasing, kicked up a tremendous sea, andcausing her to roll and pitch, very much deadened her headway. Graduallythe first cutter crawled up; gallantly the launchers contested the spacethey had gained. "Give way, lads! give way, they're gaining on us!" andthe oars bent like willows in the hands of the hardy launchers; but invain this expenditure of strength; one half of it was lost in a heavylurch, which sent the starboard oars glancing in the sunbeams, drippingsalt tears from their blades into the exulting wave, and nearlyunseating the men. Like the Giselle, the agile cutter skips alongside. "Pull steadily now, men!" "Pull with a will!" It is vain; side by sidewe plunge, but the cutter evidently gains; a glimpse of blue sky isapparent at the back of her steerer; it increases; the slanting beams ofthe setting sun shines full in our eyes. It is noticed by thecrew--sailors are superstitious, and their hopes sink with the sun; "Butit will rise again! Give way, boys, give way! we'll beat them yet!"Again they put forth all their power, and the bow oars nearly touch. Butthe wind increases, the sea rises, a heavy swell knocks us back from thevantage we had gained. The third cutter, buoyant as a cork, perches aninstant on the crest of a wave, and then rushes down its opposite sidewith a cheer from its crew. The race _was_ to the swift, but "the battlewas not to the strong;" the "Purser's Gig" was distanced. 

But, if the launch had been beaten, its crew were not conquered, and thecoxswain, old Andrews, captain of the forecastle, who, with a pickedcrew, would have undertaken to have pulled the boat across his ownmaelstrom, offered his whack--the sum to his credit on the purser'sbooks, on his discharge, --against a plug of tobacco, --upon the issue, inmoderately smooth water; whilst I, with others, had not lost confidencein the strong arms that impelled the "purser's gig;" although I did notincline to make one of her crew in a contest in which old A. Proposed tobeat the devil, on his own lake of fiery brimstone, with his favoritelaunch; but A. Was excited by the race, and had got a tot of a mixturewhich assimilated to that "_fire water_, " and forgot that his boat wasnot framed of asbestos; besides, I fear he held his satanic majestyslightly in contempt from the nautical notion that he possesses powerover sailors no more within his dominions. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

 Effects of the Race--Suppers and their effects--The stuff that Dreams are made of--A Scrape in the Typa--Again at Whampoa. 

Some suppers had to be ordered, and somebody had to eat them. Suppersare _spiritless_ affairs without wine--nay! I deny the softimpeachment, --no _pun is meant_! And wine came forth at the bidding. Some one observes, "You _can call_ spirits from the vasty deep! But _will_ they come?"

Let him but whisper the name of one "familiar" of any shade, complexion, or color within the corridors of Francisco Diaz's mansion for thirstymen, in Macào; and lo! it appears!

His house is haunted; there are _bottle imps_ therein. Suppers wereeaten at which epicures had not lingered; wine gulped down which would_not_ have inspired Anacreon, and segars smoked that Sir Walter Raleigh_might have_ relished! Apropos of segars--I should have saidcheroots--Manillas scent the Indian air, Havanas have few lips to greetthem in the East. Cheroots, then; who is there amongst the masculinedwellers of the land of "_musquitoes_ and myrtle, " that affects not thegentle cheroot? soft in its fragrance as the sigh of love! cheering inits effects as the presence of woman in the hour of pain! seducing inits influence as the eye of beauty! And whence gains the cheroot itsmagical properties? Look back, if you please, to chapter twelfth of thismoving tale, and there you have it fully explained. It comes from the_hand_ of woman! the same that presented the apple to Adam, and thepitcher to Abraham, who in falling or fainting, in laughing or weeping, still infuses the sweetness and acidity that makes the lemonade of life, and in mixing the ingredients "gives it all its flavor!"

"Let the toast be dear woman!" "Hallo, old fellow, thought you wereasleep. Had something of a nightmare, eh? Been mumbling away as if thesupper didn't agree with you. " "Well, your toast, with all the honors, and then to bed. " "Agreed. "

"Let us go on board ship, " proposed a seasoned mate, "the fast boatshoves off at ten. " "Agreed, agreed again, " was chorused round thetable, and "one bottle more" of sparkling champagne being called for, "success to the launch" was drank, and then a majority of the partysought the boat, gained the ship, and turned in. "Let the toast be dearwoman, " danced through my brain upon sparkling beams of champagne, andthe vibration of the nettles in the clews of my hammock plainly said orsung--

 "The wine that is mellowed by woman's bright eye, Outrivals the nectar of Jove. "

And I had a dream, which _was_ "all a dream. " With Byron in his waking"Dream, " "I saw two beings in the hue of youth, " and like his lovers, they _were_ "standing upon a hill, " and "both were young, and one was_beautiful_. " I do not know how in fitting words to tell my dream. Butas it was similar to his, oh that I could with his language, withoutthe imputation of plagiarism, set down what crossed my sleeping mind. Besides, I have a dread of offending some readers in thesetranscendental times, when lectures on mysterious subjects are given tomarried ladies _only_, whose faces would tingle at the mere mention ofone of those English classics, from whose fount flowed "the well ofEnglish undefiled. " But to my dream. It was the age of early manhood, boyhood still lingering on the face of a being who filled my mind untilit formed a part of myself. The being described as _beautiful_, ohbeautiful as an angel was she! was by his side. Love, full, passionatelove, brimmed over in her dark black eye, darker, more dazzling than thegazelle's, which was reflected back from his dark orbs, which took theirbrightest brilliancy from hers. Over her cheek the rosy god had spreadhis crimson mantle, and in the dimples of her chin the mischievous boyhad found a lurking-place. They walked and talked, and in what phrase?Truly they knew not themselves! and yet each word, each glance, eachtouch, had a meaning perfectly intelligible. Time passed, but what wastime to them, they saw nothing of his beard, heard not the rustling ofhis ancient wings, his scythe was hidden. The heavens are overcast, thunder rolls above them, and the lightning's glare makes the blackfringes of the heavy cloud more funereal. A shadow, heavy, dense, _material_, interposes, and the boy seeks for his fair companion--butshe is gone: "Got to see the hammocks up! six bells, come turn out, ""rouse and bitt, " "show a leg in a purser's stocking. " "Zounds, how hesleeps, " "where, where, oh where is my hammock boy?" who appeared at mycall, and whom I wished at the gangway, that I might have slept on. Butturn out I must now--and so turned out my dream. 

Other races were upon the _tapis_. The launchers, like brave old Taylor, would not stay beaten, and demanded another trial; they offered tooppose any thing, from the Captain's gig, down to the dingui--they evenwanted to challenge the boats of the whole squadron, and old A. , thecoxswain, in the true spirit of Rhoderick Dhu, exclaimed, "Come one, come all, " but the regatta was put a stop to, by orders to get out ofthe Typa, and the men commenced "mud-larking, " as they termed it. TheTypa is filling up so rapidly that we never could get out _now_ withouta _scrape_, and the senior officer perhaps thought it better we shouldmove before we had formed a bar with our beef bones. 

So out of the Typa again we got, poised our wings in the outer harbor, and took flight for Whampoa again, and settled down in our old restingplace in the "Reach, " on the 11th of October. From here I took anothertrip to Canton, made a few purchases, as I then supposed it would be ourlast opportunity. Heard there of an extensive fire which had raged nearthe factories, in which over five hundred houses had been destroyed. Afire in Canton is a serious affair, and from the ideas of fatalismwhich the Chinese entertain, is much dreaded by foreign residents. 

Our stay at Whampoa was not marked by any incidents worth noticing, andit is only to keep up the chronological character of my journal, thatthe trip is introduced. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

 Anson's Bay--Hong-Kong again--P. & O. Company's hulk takes fire--Escape of Captain's wife--Toong-Koo Bay--Piracy--Fire at Macào--Wolf again at Whampoa--Amateur Theatricals at Canton--Melancholy musings. 

From Whampoa, came down the river to Anson's Bay and anchored; here heldcommunication with our consort, which went up to the "Reach" to take ourplace. 

Anson's Bay is just outside of the Bogue, and from our anchorage had afine view of the Forts, some eight or nine being in sight. Tiger Islandwas also conspicuous, and the formation of a tiger's head quiteapparent. 

From Anson's Bay took our departure for Hong-Kong, where moored ship onthe 19th October. 

On the 20th, at about 5 P. M. , the Peninsular and Oriental Company'shulk "Fort William, " used for storing coal and opium, took fire andburned until 10 o'clock that night, when the fire was got under. Ourcrew assisted, with buckets from the ship, nearly all of which theymanaged to lose. The Captain's wife, who lived on board the hulk, had anarrow escape, having to be lowered out of the stern ports. 

From Hong-Kong over to Macào, where obtained permission to go intoToong-Koo Bay for the purpose of calking, preparatory to our long voyagehome, upon which we now hoped to be ordered daily; the rolling in theRoads preventing the possibility of effecting it at Macào. 

Toong-Koo Bay is in the Cap-sing-moon passage, and about thirty milesfrom Hong-Kong. The British fleet rendezvoused here during the war withChina. 

Were anchored near Sam-sah Island, where tents were pitched and the sickplaced in them. Every morning one watch was permitted to go on shore towash their clothes, &c. , until relieved by the other watch, so thatthere was always a little colony on the island. It was otherwiseuninhabited. 

Strolling over the island, came upon the ruins of a house and some humanbones, and ascending a hill had a splendid view of the bay andsurrounding islands. These appeared innumerable, like icebergs in theAntarctic circle, cutting up the bay into intricate channels, and asbarren, if not as cold, as those ice islands. Pirates are plentiful inthis neighborhood, and one morning, at daylight, Afouke, our fastboatman, brought on board two Chinamen, whom he had picked up swimming. They were badly wounded, and stated that about three o'clock thatmorning, as they were fishing, they were boarded by pirates, who threwfire-balls amongst them, burning them badly, and forcing them to leapinto the water to save their fives, and then took possession of theirboats. These waters are infested with pirates, who ostensibly pursue theavocation of fishermen, until an opportunity opens to catch men. TheEnglish navy did a great deal towards extirpating them, until theirgovernment took away the "head money, " and now but few expeditions arefitted out; although doubtless the junior officers are as anxious forthe service as ever. 

The calking completed, reported ourselves at Macào; but no Commodoreappearing, and our coppers being worn out, went over to Hong-Kong to getthem repaired. Here we got a mail and news from home which was cheering, and increased our desire to start. 

Went through a round of dinners at Hong-Kong, exchanging civilities withofficers and citizens, but began to get tired of this kind of thing;like the schoolboy, _wanted to go home_!

At this time the government of Macào changed again, Cardozo beingrecalled, and Gruimaraens, commander of the corvette "Don Jooa, "superseding him, his _ex_-Excellency departed for Lisbon in the returnmail steamer, not much regretted, I understood. 

A powder boat laying almost under our bows was robbed, the powderremoved, and its keeper carried away, without exciting any attention; sosilently was the act performed. 

As we were leaving for Macào, the clipper ship Witchcraft came in, disabled, as I have recorded in a previous chapter. 

Whilst at Macào, this time, a very extensive fire occurred, amongstChina houses near the Bazaar. About thirty were destroyed, and a greatmany goods. A silk merchant's loss was considerable. So frightened wasthe fellow, that he removed his goods into a house that was afterwardsburned, his own shop escaping; literally "jumping out of the frying-paninto the fire. "

On the nineteenth of December, ordered again to Whampoa, to relieve ourconsort, and protect American interests from that imaginary wolf, therebellion. Christmas day passed by there gloomily, and the new yearcommenced unprofitably. 

Went up to Canton, to witness a theatrical performance, by amateurs, and was delighted. The room was well fitted up, and the appointmentsexcellent. The play was, "The Schoolfellows, "--a beautiful little drama, by Douglas Jerrold, I believe; and it was admirably cast. Mr. Murray asTom Drops--a good-hearted, liquor-loving _vaut-rien_--was inimitable. Hewas waiter and hostler to a village inn; and the scene in which he, uponwine being called for by a customer, produces, condemns, and consumes, abottle of the "_black seal_" was the perfection of acting, the differentphases of ebriety were well portrayed, and in the course of the play, additional red patches appeared upon his face, to show the effects ofhis habits. 

Box and Cox was the after-piece; and Mr. Clavering as _Mrs. _ Bouncer, was the very beau-ideal of a landlady, "fair, fat, and forty. " Theprologue was excellent, and well delivered, and the amateur company hadjust reason to be proud of their performance. 

Having been favored with a copy of the opening address, I transcribe it. Of course, it loses much from the effect given by its composer in itsdelivery. 

 "Fair ladies, and kind friends, who deign to smile On our attempt an hour to beguile, I'm hither by the actors sent, to pray A gentle judgment on a first Essay. They bid me state, their novel situation Has set their hearts in such strange perturbation, They dare not raise the curtain till they've pleaded First, for the pardon will be so much needed. I'm shocked to say, it sounds so of the oddest, Our ladies want much practice to look modest; The rough, strong voice, ill suits with feelings tender, And 'tis such work to make their waists look slender! As for the men, the case is little better; Some, of the dialogue scarce know a letter: All unacquainted with each classic rule, We feel we've need enough to go to school; And trembling stand, afraid to come before ye, And of the Schoolfellows to tell the story. Yet need this be? I see no critic here; No surly newspaper have we to fear; Our scenery may be bad, but this is certain, Bright decorations are before the curtain, Under whose influence, you may well believe, We do not sigh for Stanfield, grieve for Grieve! Yet not too far to carry innovation, And to comply with settled regulation, Prompter we have, our memories to ease; But our best prompter is, the wish to please. Then kindly say, to stumblers in their part, What they have _got_, was surely got _by heart_; And each, surrounded by his friends, so stands, He will meet nought but kindness at their hands. "

The Stanfield and Grieve, upon whose names the happy alliteration ismade, are supposed to be celebrated English scene painters. But althoughthe scenery meets with disparagement in the prologue, yet it was verysuperior; and the interior of the old schoolhouse, with the names of theboys cut into the oaken pannels of the door, and on which Jasper pointsout to Horace their initials intertwined, was a perfect picture. 

Having gone thus far, I cannot omit a notice of Mr. Benjamin Sears'impersonation of the aged schoolmaster, Cedar. The dignity andsimplicity of the character combined, was rendered by him in such amanner as almost to bring back those forgotten tears, drawn forth inolden times by that masterpiece of acting of Harry Placide's, inGrandfather Whitehead. 

"Our Ladies, " who required so much practice "to _look_ modest, " hadbecome perfect in that requisite before the upraising of the curtain;and the young gentlemen cast in those characters sustained them withmuch tact, and knowledge of the demeanor of well-bred ladies: so muchso, indeed, that after they had got through their parts, they wereadded, still in character, to the galaxy of "decorations before thecurtain;" and the only _faux pas_ I noticed was by "Marion, " who, inbeing led to her seat in the dress circle, was about to take anunladylike step ever an obstruction, which her (?) innate modestychecked with the impulse. 

After the performance, all the characters attended a fancy dress ball intheir stage costume; and the pseudo ladies found partners in everydance, and won many hearts by their grace and beauty. 

Had also a performance in the "Reach, " by the crew of H. B. M. SteamerSalamander. The larboard side of the forecastle was allotted to them;and they gave a drama "adapted to their stage, " by one of their numbercalled the "Smuggler, " which they produced with good effect. Theperformance was, as they gave out, "under the distinguished patronageof the American and Her Majesty's officers. "

But in spite of all these distractions, our delay was barelysupportable; and watching the course of the muddy river, the followinglament was penned:

 Oh! swiftly flows thy dusky tide, Dark river, onward to the sea; And little doth thy current bide The thousand things that float on thee!

 From off thy shore a weed is cast-- Swiftly, in thy resistless sway, In eddying currents, sweeping past, 'Tis borne, unheeded, far away. 

 Like thine, the sweeping tide of Time, Rolls onward ever to the shore Of that uncertain, unknown clime, From which it may return no more;

 And on its flow, my brittle life Drops down, uncared for, to _that_ sea, Where, 'midst the dark waves' stormy strife, It soon shall sink, and cease to be. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

 Commodore arrives at last--Preparations for a Start--Delay --Washington's Birthday--The Clipper Challenge--Prisoners from her--Homeward Bound!--Reflections on Leaving--Case of Small-Pox--Second visit to Anger. 

The flag-ship being now daily expected, we unmoored, and came down toMacào, awaiting her arrival in the outer Roads. Lay there, rolling, withoccasional trips on shore, until the fourth of February, when theCommodore's broad pendant hove in sight. He anchored in the roads: andafter we had reported, ordered us, by signal, to accompany him toHong-Kong. Here we anchored, and remained until the squadron were allassembled, when we were ordered back to Macào, to take in provisions forthe voyage home, and remove the invalids from the hospital. Thisaccomplished, we returned again to the rendezvous, to receive our finalorders, which were to relieve us from duty on the station, and send ushome!

Were delayed by the investigation of a mutiny on board the Americanclipper ship Challenge, the ringleaders being then in custody in theHong-Kong jail, and the case before the United States Consul. 

Washington's birthday came round again whilst we remained in the harborof Hong-Kong, and was celebrated by our squadron, the guns of whichmade quite a noise in the ears of the descendants of those who had oncedenounced him as a rebel. 

Took an opportunity to look at the "Challenge. " She is an immensevessel, 243 feet long, with 43 feet beam, and over 2, 000 tons burthen, but so beautifully proportioned as not to appear above 1, 200. Her sparsare immense, and she spreads a _cloud_ of canvas. Depend upon it, shewill not belie her name, but with any kind of a chance, is destined tomake a voyage, which she may confidently _challenge_ the navies of theworld to beat!

On the twenty-fifth of February, the prisoners from the Challenge weresent on board, six in number; and at 6 bells P. M. Got up anchor, andfired a parting salute, which was returned by the Commodore, gun forgun. Exchanged cheers with the squadron, made an evolution in theharbor, by way of "salaam, " and then stood out, with studding-sails set, homeward bound!

There is a sort of unexpressed concern, a kind of shock, that sets one'sheart ajar at leaving even the most unpleasant people and places, saysone who ought to know, for he had travelled much, and I could not helpagreeing with him, as we took our departure: There was but little toregret in leaving China. I had formed few ties there. The places andpeople (with but few exceptions), if not unpleasant, were at leastindifferent. Yet I must admit this unexpressed and inexpressibleconcern, as our vessel glided out of the harbor of Hong-Kong, towardshome. 

But we had a long passage before us, and much water to sail through, ere we reached our homes. The China and the Java seas had to betraversed ere the Straits of Sunda gave us a passage to the IndianOcean, whose bosom we had to plough until the southern point of Africapassed, the Atlantic could be pressed by our keel;--and then not theOcean of our hemisphere: for many degrees of longitude must be tracked, before we could set them down as West; and the imaginary "Line" dividedus from the Northern Ocean, in which lay our port. 

Took our departure from the "Ladrone Islands" at 8 o'clock on the nightof the twenty-fifth, and the next day at meridian, we had made 128 mileson a S. S. West course. Weather fine; beautiful, easy sailing, with thewind abeam. 

On the twenty-seventh, wind hauled ahead, and we only got eighty-eightmiles out of the ship in the last twenty-four hours; and for the lasttwo days of February had a dead beat--a thing altogether unlooked for inthe China Sea at this season. 

On Thursday, eleventh of March, --sea time, --at meridian, we werethirteen miles south of the Line, in long. 107° 22' 55'' east; being thethird time of our "crossing" it. A few days previous to this a case ofsmall-pox had broken out, one of the prisoners having contracted thedisease in Hong-Kong, where it had been raging to some extent. This wasrather a serious matter in a small and crowded ship at sea; but he, being placed in the lee quarter boat, and a strong N. E. Monsoon thenprevailing, after a while recovered, no contagion having beencommunicated to the ship's company. 

The Island of Saint Barbe was passed on the morning of the last date. Itis a beautiful island, uninhabited, and as near the line as can be. 

On St. Patrick's day, 17th. March, came to anchor at Anger, where westopped for a supply of water and wood. I have described this place inan earlier chapter, and on landing found the town without much change. The Banyan tree still there, with the Dutch flag above it, and thestring of half clad Malays on their usual walk between it and theBazaar. The former mansion of the Governor had been destroyed by fire, and a new Governor had been installed, who occupied the house formerlyused as a hotel. He was absent on official duty, but his Secretary didthe honors of reception. 

Naturally looking round for our old friend, the Dutch landlord, foundhim in a smaller house, his only customer; had expected to have heardthat he had fallen a victim to his love for "schnapps, " but here he wasas blooming as ever, and as much addicted to his nationalliquor--certainly gin appeared to have agreed with him. 

Took possession of his quarters at once, and ordered a supper, of whichsome _slap-jacks_ was the only dish eatable. Composed ourselves for thenight, on a mattress hauled from his own bed, with expectation of a morecomfortable breakfast, which, with the addition of eggs, and theomission of slap-jacks, was a fac-simile of the evening meal. 

There was one thing peculiar about the eggs, which I would recommend beintroduced into the United States, viz. , to have the date of the time inwhich they were laid marked upon the shell, as he had, only proposingthat the marker be sworn as to the correctness of the date; in whichcase the Dutchman would have perjured himself, I fear. 

Had a splendid bath, by favor of the Secretary, in the Governor'sbath-house, which was large enough to swim in, and constantly suppliedwith fresh water by the same aqueduct that brings it to the shipping. Our compradore gave us a treat of mangusteens, delicious fruit, and thenthe cornet being hoisted at the fore, the signal for sailing, repairedon board, having spent twenty-four hours very pleasantly again at Anger. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

 No Musquitoes at Anger--The Land of the East--A Sketch-- Advantages of Anger--Dolce-far-Niente--Island of Java-- Batavia--Bantam--Comparison between Anger and Singapore. 

A peculiarity about Anger is, that there are no musquitoes there, andvery few of the noxious vermin that destroy the romance of tropicalclimes. It does very well in poetry, to pen, in pretty phrase, the queryof your acquaintance with the

 "Land of the orange and myrtle;"

but they are more than _poetically_ "emblems of _deeds_ that are done intheir clime, " and gastric derangement from the former fruit, withcutaneous affections from the sweet-scented vine, are not the onlyproofs of a change in the properties of the Garden of Eden. "Latetanguis in herba, " of the most inviting natural lawn, and of its gayestflowers, truly has the poet said, "the trail of the serpent is over themall. " The East is called the "land of the sun, " and justly too, for hereigns supreme there, and if you defy his power, soon brings you to yoursenses, or rather deprives you of them, by a _coup de soleil_. Evadinghis beams you seek the covert of a grateful shade, where the spreadingpalm, with parasol-like leaves, forms romantic shelter, the cocoa-nutin its triple cluster hanging invitingly in its crotch; away high upupon its straight and graceful stem, birds of magnificent plumage areflitting from tree to tree, making the grove vocal with their notes;monkeys, mischievous, but not considered dangerous, dance overhead uponthe boughs, and with comic antics provoke a smile. With gentle breezeswafting perfumes such as Gouraud never was gladdened with in his mosthappy ambrosial dreams, and glimpses of the blue sky, seen partiallythrough the waving foliage, which gently moves with a composing sound, reminding you that "Heaven is above all, " you close your eyes, about tosink into the arms of the "twin sister" of that mysterious deity, whobears you thither, when--wiss-s-rattle, crack--down comes a cocoa-nut, denting the ground within two inches from whence you had just jerkedyour happy head, which had it hit would have transferred you from thearms of one "twin" to the other; and a malicious monkey scampers offchattering and grinning, as if he had performed a feat worthy of hisprototype--man!

"Oh know you the land of the orange and myrtle?" where the Thug crawlscautiously with his strangling cord, and the tiger welcomes you with hisfeline fangs!

But Anger--please pronounce it softly, as if written thus, Anjeer--Angeris not so bad as described in the foregoing sketch; as I have stated, there are no musquitoes there, and you are not much troubled with thosebumping, buzzing bugs, who "put out the light, and then put out _their_light. " Lizards crawl over the walls and ceilings, but they areharmless, and catch flies. I do not know how it is, and it may bethought a strange taste, but I rather affection the lizard. His frugalhabits, his unobtrusive manners, and that cunning blink of his brightblack eyes, have taken away that aversion which is a natural sentimenttowards that species of animals "which crawl upon the belly;" and uponthe whole, must confess I consider him, despite his ugly tail, a veryproper _domestic_ animal; more so than many other gluttonous pets. 

Tigers, it is true, are said to prowl about at night, seeking somethingto devour, but I never encountered one, else I might not have been hereto write about them. Crocodiles infest the stream that winds around andabout the Malay houses. But they do not appear to hold them in dread, for I have seen men, women, children and crocodiles in the same water, and at the same time. That they, the crocodiles, are not converts toMalthus, is pretty apparent, from the number of _tender_ infants theypermit to be added to the census of the Malay population. 

Upon the whole, there was something about Anger peculiarly pleasingto me; whether that it had been the "first of Eastern lands" I hadtrodden upon, or there could have been any thing conducive to the"dolce-far-niente" feeling in its atmosphere, but I felt as if Icould have laid back and smoked segars in Mynheer's porch for theremainder of my days--

 "The world forgetting, by the world forgot. "

Don't know how long the feeling would have lasted had I indulged it _adlibitum_; but I certainly did enjoy the few hours passed there in akind of dreamy abstraction, which approached the pleasure of theopium-eater's reverie. 

The Island of Java, sometimes called "Great, " on account of Balie havingonce been called by the same name, is nearly five hundred miles inlength, and a place of considerable importance in the commercial world;that part of it occupied by the Dutch, producing coffee, rice, and"straits produce. " Batavia, the principal settlement, is a city ofconsiderable importance, only about sixty miles by land from Anger, acommunication being kept up by post between the two places. It isdescribed as a very populous and beautiful city, but of a climate, atcertain seasons, deadly to Europeans. The Governor-General of the Dutchpossessions in the East Indies, resides at Batavia, and it is the dépôtof the Dutch trade. It is well known that the English possessedthemselves of this place after the provinces had declared war againstGreat Britain, and lost more men during its short occupancy, by disease, than by the casualties of war. Bantam is also neighboring to Anger, withwhich a post route is also kept up; it was once a place of considerableimportance, but has fallen into decay, Batavia obtaining its trade, andrising upon its ruins. 

Anger itself, from its advantageous position in the Straits of Sunda, with an enterprising population, might become a place of considerableimportance, and rival in time its neighbor, Sincapore, in the Straits ofMalacca. It is now the stopping place for nearly every vessel passingthrough these Straits for water and provisions, and there is nothing toprevent its becoming an emporium for the products of this fertileIsland, excepting the short-sighted policy of the Dutch, who wishing tocentre all the trade at Batavia, force the merchantmen to a sickly cityfor the pepper, coffee, rice, &c. , raised upon it. Nothing is allowed tobe exported from Anger, and when we wished to procure some coffee foruse on board ship, found it only could be obtained in an underhandmanner. If the English when they took possession of the island, had butmade a settlement and retained this point, they would have found itgreatly to their advantage, even more profitable than Sincapore. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

 Pass through Sunda Strait--H. B. M. S. Rattler--Catch the Trades--A learned opinion on Diaries--Extracts from Diary--Isle of France--Its Romance--Bourbon--Mauritius-- Cape of Good Hope--Description--Trouble in getting in-- Table Bay and Mountain. 

In passing through the Straits, after leaving Anger, H. B. M. Screwpropeller "Rattler" went up on her way to China. Did not envy herofficers, nor feel at all inclined to exchange with them. 

Ran out of the Straits with a fine leading wind, taking our departurefrom Java-Head at early daylight on the morning of the 19th of March;struck the "trades" at once, and held them to the 28th, when had made1550 miles. 

The distance run, by log, from Hong-Kong to Anger, was just nineteenhundred forty-five and three-fourth miles, making us at that timeexactly three thousand four hundred and ninety-six on our way home. Thiswas done in a little over thirty days, including stoppage. 

The learned Baron of Verulam has said: "It is a strange thing in seavoyages, when there is nothing to be seen but sea and sky, that menshould make diaries, and omit them in land travel, as if chance werefitter to be registered than observation. " Now I have made my diary, both at sea and on shore, and copy from it:

_At Sea, Sunday, April 11th, 1852. _--Have now run down to the southwardof the Island of Madagascar, and are in the same longitude, havingpassed the Isle of France, or the "Mauritius, " and Bourbon safely. Hurricanes prevail off these islands, but we have only had one smallblow. Last Sunday caught a shark, about seven feet and a half long. Some of the men ate part of him. 

Beautiful "Isle of France, " degraded into Mauritius by the Dutch inhonor of their Stadtholder Maurice, but made celebrated by the pen ofBernardin St. Pierre, as the scene of the life, loves and "fate of Pauland Virginia, and consecrated by their tomb!" Creative power of genius, thus to constitute an insignificant island, far, far away amongst thedistant waves of the Indian Ocean, a shrine to which pilgrims shallresort in honor of true and young and ill-starred love!

Bourbon, too, the Island of Rëunion--happy nomenclature--has alsopleasant associations connected with its name. 

Madagascar, however, from its importance, is worthy of a passing notice. It is one of the largest islands known. It covers, in the Indian Ocean, the spaces between latitudes 12° and 25° degrees south, and thelongitudes 43° and 51° east of London; at a close calculation, has beenfound to fill up a superficies of over two hundred thousand squaremiles;--equal in extent to the Pyrenean peninsula, composed of Spain andPortugal. It has been but little explored; but treaties have been madewith its reigning powers by both Great Britain and the United States. 

_Monday, April 19th. _--At sea, in latitude 35° 13', about one degreesouth of the Cape. Have been prevented from making entries in diary byrough weather, and heartily joined the schoolmaster in his wish, that"if Britannia _ruled_ the waves, she would bring them more parallel tothe '_Line_!'"

_Sunday, April 25th, 1852. _--Are now off the Cape of Good Hope, calledby its discoverer, Diaz, Cabo Tormentoso, or the Tormenting Cape, fromthe storms he encountered in its latitude. And well was it named, too, in our case; for here we are, with a wind right in our teeth, trying tobeat up to Table Bay, and chasseeing to the Cape, as if to a stationarypartner. 

Just sixty days from China, and have run by reckoning seven thousand onehundred and forty-five miles, --our course giving us five thousand onehundred and ninety-four and one-half miles from Anger. 

On Friday night last, while becalmed off Cape Algulhas, caught a numberof very fine fish on the Algulhas banks. One kind was called "CapeSalmon;" another species was known at Cape Town by the name of "KingClip. "

On last Sunday, had made our calculations to be in Cape Town on theensuing Tuesday, from the fine wind we had; but if we get in by nextTuesday, shall consider ourselves fortunate. Can appreciate thesituation of Mynheer Vanderdecken now, and his anxiety to forwardletters by passing vessels. Shall take advantage of the steamer forEngland, at Cape Town, to forward some myself; which have hopes will bemore fortunate in reaching their destination than the dispatches of theFlying Dutchman, passing there, as they will, through the Colonial PostOffice. 

The Cape of Good Hope is not the most extreme point of Southern Africa, the before-mentioned Algulhas extending farther into the Southern Ocean. Cape Town is to the westward of the Cape, upon an indentation calledTable Bay. But I will now resume my diary, as we are approaching a placeproper for it to be kept, according to the learned Lord Bacon. The nextdate is, _Southern Atlantic Ocean, May 3d, 1852. _--Since last entry have beeninto Table Bay, for water, and have been on shore at Cape Town. Are now, as above, in latitude 30° 24' south, with the wind dead aft, heading upthe Atlantic for home: and from our last departure, begin to say atlast, "We're homeward bound!"

On Monday last, April 26th, came to anchor in Table Bay about 5 P. M. , having spent that and the previous day in trying to get in. 

The approach to Cape Town is interesting; Table Mountain, with itsextensive flat top, forming a prominent feature. 

Before you round the point, which shuts in the anchorage, and excludes aview of the town, leaving only the heavy brow of this mountain visible, you pass along a coast composed of a long sloping hill in theproportions of a lion _couchant_. It extends eastwardly and westwardly, and the "Lion's Head" is first seen as you approach from the eastward. Upon the mount called thus, is a large rock, very similar in appearanceto the outlines of a sculptured lion, of the Egyptian style of carving. The hill gradually diminishing, makes a good representation of the maneand hinder parts of a reposing lion; on what is distinguished as "theRump, " is a signal station: along the part forming the flanks aredistributed beautiful country-seats: rounding "the Rump, " the town isvisible, with Table Bay, and shipping. 

Table Bay in itself is not very imposing; is a bad roadstead, andvessels intending to make any stay at the colony, go round to Simon'sBay, which is a safe roadstead within the larger one called False Bay. Numerous windmills along the shore are remarkable objects, and prove thescarcity of water to grind the corn. It is a feature in the economy ofSouthern Africa, that streams, which are torrents at one season, becomealmost dry beds in the other. 

Table Mountain, with the well laid out town at its base, flanked by"Devil's Peak" and "Lion's Head, " makes a majestic, natural frame to abeautiful landscape. This singular mountain, before whose nobleproportions the works of man sink into insignificance, --his dwellingsappearing, from its summit, mere ant-hills, --is 3, 582 feet above thelevel of the ocean; and for one thousand or more feet from its topdescends on the north-east side perpendicularly, whilst the flatappearance of its lengthened surface completes the resemblance to thepiece of furniture from which it receives its _soubriquet_. 

The long even line, cutting the sky at right angles, was very pretty tolook at while I was there. But a few weeks after, when Æolus spreads"the cloth, " and invites the winds to a feast, then let the mariner, whose vessel may be caught in the bay beneath, beware. Forth from theirrevels they rush over its precipitous sides, and ships become theirplay-things, and man their prey!

CHAPTER XXVII. 

 Land at Cape Town--Hotels and Widows--Drive to Constantia --Description of Drive--Price of Wine--Manumission of Slaves--Seasons at the Cape--The Town through a Microscope, &c. &c. 

Landed at Cape Town on a fine jetty, which projects some distance intothe bay. This, with another about a mile above, are the only landingplaces. Stopped at "Parke's Hotel, " at its head. This is kept by awidow lady, and a spruce dandy of a mulatto superintends its internalarrangements in the capacity of steward. There are two otherhotels, --"The Masonic, " and "Welch's, "--and a club-house. I believe allthe houses of entertainment here have widows at their head--SamWeller's injunction needed here--"Parke's" I know to be; "Welch's, " Ithink, is; and two "Widows, " at least in name, being man and wife withthat appellation, spread forth the good things at "The Masonic;" and Ihave heard there are no _bereavements_ there. 

After a fine bath, --my first care in every port, --took a stroll throughthe town. There is at the head of the street, on which the hotel wassituated, a splendid wide avenue, planted with rows of majestic oaks, their branches meeting overhead. This extends over one mile; on one sideof it is the Governor's Palace and grounds, cut off from vulgar feet bya moat, or walled ditch, and accessible by a small drawbridge from theavenue. Opposite is a Botanical Garden. 

With a party from the ship, hired a splendid barouche and team, anddrove out to "Constantia, " about thirteen miles, where the wine is made. It is a most beautiful drive, lined on either side by Englishcountry-houses, with surrounding grounds, intersected by broad avenues, smooth roads and walks, with green lawns spreading out around them, covered with close-clipped oak trees. 

The drive was rather dusty, which somewhat detracted from its pleasure;but a shower of rain opportunely coming up, made the return moreagreeable. 

Passed through a number of villages, among them Wynberg, --a nourishing, pretty place. Saw a great number of school-houses and churches; buttaverns, "licensed to sell spirituous liquors, " as appeared upon theirsigns, were most numerous on this road. A small chapel was being built, which, from its dimensions, supposed to be of the _established_ church, and no increase of congregation expected. 

Visited the Vinery of S. Van Renen & Co. , High Constantia. Was wellreceived, although the coachman drove us to the wrong place; and wehanded him a letter addressed to a Mr. Colyin, a neighbor, thinking itto be his place. 

The grape season was over: wine had been all pressed and stowed away. They gather the grape in March, but it is allowed to become almost araisin on the stem before it is plucked. Tasted these wines; found themsweet and luscious, too much so for my palate. This peculiar flavor iscaused by the condition of the grape when pressed. 

 _Prices of Constantia in Cask. _

 _Copied from a Table on the Card of S. Van Renen & Co. _

 19 Gallons. 10 Gallons. 5 Gallons. 

 Pontac Constantia, £14 £8 £5

 Frontignac " 10 6 4

 White " 9 5 3

 Red " 9 5 3

M. Van Renen, whom we found on the premises, after exhibiting thedifferent wines, took us over the place, and showed us a collection ofthe different aborigines of South Africa, in statuary. There wereKaffirs, Hottentots, Fingoes, Betjouanas, and Boschmen. M. V. Deprecatedthe abolition of slavery as a great injury to the agriculturists andvine-growers of the colony. They can get no one to perform anycontinuous labor, and whilst at one time his establishment kept eightyable-bodied men at work, would find it difficult to get three now whomthey could depend upon. Living in a climate where clothing beyond thedemands of decency is scarcely needed, and where the products of laborfor two days will support the careless negro for one week, naturallyimprovident, he takes no heed for the morrow, and becomes lazy, idle, and intemperate; and when he can be persuaded to work, with the prospectof high wages, wherewith to purchase that necessary stimulus which hasalready nearly deprived him of his capacities, as soon as he can obtainthem he rushes to the grog shop, from whence he may not be expected toreturn until his wants compel him again to his intermittent labor. 

The colonists, especially the agricultural part of them, complainbitterly of hasty legislation in depriving them of slave labor. They hadoffered to submit to a gradual manumission, so that by degrees theymight be able to supply the place of the negro operatives, but theEnglish government would set them free at once, and the result has beeninjurious to the freedman and ruinous to the farmer. Was told that landcould be purchased about Constantia at the low rate of _one shilling theacre_, altogether owing to the inability to procure labor to cultivateit; and to bring about this state of things here and elsewhere, some£20, 060, 000 was expended!

Returning from Constantia, our spanking team of four well proportionediron grays, attracted considerable attention. It ought to have, for theexpense of its hire was two pounds ten shillings. Stopped at the "CrownInn, " upon the road, for refreshments, and on handing a ragged littleurchin a shilling for his voluntary service of standing at the door ofour barouche, on starting off were saluted by a hiss for our generosity. A greater _douceur_ was expected from the drivers of such a magnificentturnout. 

The road, a greater part of it, was a turnpike, very even and smooth;paid toll, one shilling. Drove through an avenue of large oak trees, their topmost branches meeting overhead, to the extent of one fourth ofa mile, forming a fine shade in summer. The seasons, of which there arebut two, winter and summer, are reversed in Southern Africa; July beinga cool month, and Christmas coming in _midsummer_ at the Cape. 

Returned to dinner at the hotel at seven o'clock, and ate some splendidCape mutton. The caudal arrangements of the sheep at the Cape bear agreat similarity to those at Shanghae. 

After supper set out for a walk, in which were disappointed by a shower. It rains only in the winter season here, but heavy dews in the summermake up this deficiency of nature's nourishment, and the colony iscarpeted with herbage of the most delicious fragrance, so that the pathsof the colonists may then be said to be strewn with flowers. 

The winters at the Cape are extremely mild; no snow falls there; and ifat night ice is formed, it does not long withstand the rays of the sun. The season corresponds in its general features with our autumn. In theinterior the winters are said to be more severe, and streams aresometimes frozen over. 

Although it was the first winter month, in M. Van Renen's orange groveat Constantia, the trees were so laden with the Hesperian fruit, thattheir limbs were bent to the ground and many broken. Saw there also, pomegranates, liquots, rose apples, and a variety of tropical fruits, some ready to pluck, others in different stages of ripening. 

Up betimes the next morning for a walk through Cape Town. Streets wideand clean, principally paved or macadamized. No banquettes; porchesproject in front of the houses, covering the _trottoir_, and pedestriansare forced into the middle of the street. That Hibernian must have beenan emigrant to Cape Town, who remarked that "the middle of the streetwas the _best side_ of the way. "

The houses, however, present a fine appearance externally; they areusually about three stories in height, and being stuccoed, are paintedin imitation of free-stone. Their tops are flat, to which theiroccupants repair to spend the remainder of the evening after their latedinners. There is a freshness about the place which is quite revivingafter many days at sea, and was particularly pleasant to us, who hadseen nothing but filthy Chinese towns for two years and upwards;Hong-Kong having been the nearest approach to a civilized community wehad visited during the cruise, and even there the "long-tailed pig-eyedCelestial" predominated. 

The parade ground is an extensive oblong space running along the strand, with a ditch dividing it from Strand-street. It has a border of a doublerow of fine flowering trees, and must be a delightful place for a strollon a summer evening. 

The Commercial Exchange and Library rooms are upon it, fronting theprincipal street; and back of the Exchange is a rough brick and mortarpillar to mark the spot where Sir J. Herschell, the astronomer, made hisobservations. 

Near the parade ground, and facing it, are the barracks, _manned_ atthat time by women, their husbands, the soldiers, having been shippedoff to Kaffir land. By the way; a terrible accident had occurred a fewweeks before our arrival, to her Britannic Majesty's steamer Berkenhead, employed in transporting troops up the coast, to the war. She struckupon "Point Danger, " and going down almost immediately, four out offive hundred of those on board were drowned. 

I was told that only about eighty men had been left to garrison thetown, and that a panic had lately been gotten up, from fears of a risingof the colored population. The lazy negroes, whom England, in hermistaken philanthropy, had liberated, not being compelled to work, choseto rob and steal. 

The Custom-house, an unpretending building, with the letters andnumerals G. IV. R. Over its portals, is also on Strand-street, frontingthe "Parade. "

Early on the last morning ashore took a walk to the new market on theoutskirts of the town, where the wholesale farmers bring their produceby teams drawn by from ten to fifteen yoke of oxen. These animals arethe most suitable beasts for draught I have ever seen. With theirlong legs they get over the ground nearly as fast as a horse, in awalk, and, when required, go off in a fine, easy, and not ungracefultrot. They bring in immense loads, and come a great distance, overmountainous ways. The wagons they draw resemble those known as theConestoga, on many of which noticed a projection astern somethinglike a poop, serving as a sleeping cabin for the owners and drivers. In meeting these teams on the road, one at first imagines them to bea drove of beeves, but is soon undeceived by the crack of thelash--"long as the maintop-bowline"--striking against the side of alagging bullock. 

The new market is walled in, with gateways at either side to admit theseteams, which, when they enter, and the wagon has been placed in a linewith others, are outspanned, that is, detached; and form an immense herdin front of the wagons, the line of which, with the wall of the marketplace, make a complete _corral_. 

The reason why I call these farmers wholesale, is, that all the producebrought by them is disposed of by lot to the highest bidders, accordingto "rise and fall" by auctioneers, who regularly attend for thispurpose. 

Met a number of this gentry hurrying to their duties on my return, having been too early to witness the auction. Hucksters receive theirsupplies in this manner, which they retail to the citizens--an extratax, I should suppose, upon the honest burghers, from whose pockets musteventually be drawn the amount paid as commission to the auctioneers. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

 Settlement of Cape Town--Its productions--The Kaffir War --Latest dispatches--Cause of the Rebellion--Description of the Kaffir by the Traveller--Opinion of him by the Resident--Authority of prominent men--Observatory, &c. 

Within larger limits I would willingly indulge in a more extendeddescription of Southern Africa, which is set down by geographers as the"Cape Region;" but as each day now diminishes our cruise, so does eachchapter deprive me of space for digression, and I must confine myself tothe Cape Colony, or more properly speaking, to Cape Town and itsenvirons. 

The town is in latitude 33° 55' 30'' south, and as the Observatory hasbeen decided to be in longitude 18° 29', and is distant three miles anda quarter from the town, due east, it would be placed 18° 25' 45'' eastlongitude. 

The Cape of Good Hope, which is _not_ the extremity of Southern Africa, as some geographers have it--"Lagullas" protruding further into theIndian Ocean--was discovered by Bartholomew Diaz in 1486, who gave itthe name of the "Tormenting Cape, " as previously stated, which wasafterwards changed into its present title by the far-seeing Emanuel, andthe hopes he then entertained of his navigators reaching the rich shoresof the far "Inde, " were made good by Vasco de Gama, eleven years afterits discovery. The Dutch made their settlement here in 1652, of whichthey were deprived by the English in 1795, who afterwards restored it tothem by treaty at Amiens, in 1802. Eventually it was ceded to GreatBritain in 1815. The colony is quite extensive, and would be veryproductive but for numerous local causes which impede its growth. One ofthese has been named in the system of labor; but the most importantimpediment is want of unanimity amongst the settlers themselves. TheDutchman clinging to his ancient customs and habits, which are anabomination in the eyes of the Englishman; and the natives having beenonce subjected to the tender mercies of the white man, not understandingthe use of freedom, or the benefits of self-government, live literallyfrom "hand to mouth, " in constant dread of recapture, and being forced, under the eyes of intelligent masters, to properly support themselves. 

But even with these drawbacks the colony may be said to be flourishing, and when the Kaffir war is ended, and the Kat River rebellion put down, numerous fertile valleys will be open to the squatter, and contributefrom their luxuriant bosoms bountiful supplies of wealth to the colony. 

The principal productions of the Cape are grain of all kinds, and thegrapes from which the Constantia wines are made. The specimen of wheatwhich I saw, was certainly superior to any I had ever seen in the UnitedStates, and an intelligent merchant there informed me that it isconsidered the best in the world. From the number of pounds he said itwould weigh to a bushel, and its clean large grain, should think it themost profitable to the grower. 

When we were at the Cape, the Kaffir war was dragging its slow lengthalong. The troops had been pushed into Kaffraria, and the latest newsfrom the scene of operations appeared in the Government Gazette, published by authority on the 22d April, 1852. Dispatches had beenreceived from camp up to the 4th of that month. Major-General the Hon. George Cathcart, with the local rank of Lieutenant-General, havingsuperseded Sir Harry G. W. Smith, was in command. The campaign was onthe Kei, and Lieutenant-Colonel Eyre, 73d regiment, following a spoor ofcattle, had captured 1, 220 head of Gaika cattle, mostly cows, andfifteen horses. 

He had several skirmishes with the enemy, who came forth in considerablenumbers to protect their herds. Major Armstrong's passage of the Kei, and charge, is spoken of in warm terms of commendation. In this affairthe Kaffirs numbered about 500, of whom 100 were mounted. The gallantMajor's command, including himself, was 100; with these he crossed theriver under a heavy fire, and dispersed five times his number. 

A general order had been published at head-quarters, King William'sTown, dated 6th April, 1852, in which the Commander-in-Chiefcongratulates the army on the prospect of a speedy termination of thewar, and states that the troops then occupied every stronghold in theAmatolas, and it was impossible the enemy could retain a footing, soclosely was he pursued in every direction. Notwithstanding this cheeringannouncement, I fear this Kaffir war will resemble in its pursuance andgeneral features our Florida campaigns, although the officers engaged init will receive more credit than our own; and if their duties arearduous in chasing the Hottentots over mountains, and through ruggeddefiles, yet they have the advantage of a healthy field of operations, and can bivouac on the mountain ridge, or amongst the green valleys, whilst our troops had to seek their damp beds amidst the miasmaticeverglades, or more pestiferous marsh. Again, the Kaffirs dooccasionally make a stand, and some very severe actions have taken placebetween them and the British troops. 

This war was caused by a rebellion of a portion of the Hottentots of theKat River settlement, at Fort Beaufort, and the Theopolis Missionaryestablishment, in Albany. It is supposed to have originated because ofthe application of stringent vagrant laws, and from apprehensions ofbeing again forced into slavery. It is carried on on the easternfrontier of the country. The above are the surmised causes, but thereare thought to have been other motives. A representative from one of theeastern districts, stated in his place in the Legislative Council, thathe considered the rebellion to be a _national movement_, that all thedocuments found in the rebel camps were exhortations to stand up in thedefence of their nation. "General Orders" had been found which had beenscattered over a country 500 miles in extent, and these call upon thecolored men to unite and drive the white men into the sea, "of whichthey are the scum. "

Sir Andrew Stockenstrom, from the Kat River settlement, called therebellion "a Riddle, " and the Hon. John Montague, Secretary toGovernment, ascribes the hostile feelings of the Hottentots, to an ideathat they are to be made slaves. One gentleman asks in relation to thesubject: "What do we know of the rebellion? Why it was only the otherday that an officer of the Government was brought to Cape Town, aprisoner for rebellion!"

A commission, appointed by her Majesty the Queen, consisting of MajorHogge and Mr. Owen, had not then commenced their investigations. 

There were some Kaffirs in Cape Town, sent in as witnesses, but did notsee them. The following is Barrow's description of this people: "Theyare tall, robust, and muscular, and distinguished by a peculiar firmnessof carriage. Some of them were six feet ten inches, and so elegantlyproportioned that they would not have disgraced the pedestal of theFarnese Hercules. " Further on, he states: "The natives of Kaffraria, iftaken collectively, are perhaps superior, in point of figure, to theinhabitants of any other country on earth; they are indeed exempt frommany of those causes which, in civilized society, tend to debilitate andimpede the growth of the human body. Their diet is perfectly simple, their exercise conducive to health, and the air they breathe salubrious. Strangers to the licentious appetites which frequently proceed from adepraved imagination, they cheerfully receive the bounteous gifts ofnature, and when night sways her ebon sceptre o'er the scene, 'Sweetly composed the weary shepherd lies, Though through the woods terrific winds resound, Though rattling thunder shakes the vaulted skies, Or vivid lightning runs along the ground. '"

After that read the opinions held of them in Cape Town. I make theextracts from the published debates of the Legislative Council of thecolony, in assembly there. The Secretary to Government says: "We havebefore us the most remarkable fact, that hundreds of these people on thefrontier, who had lived with the farmers, many of them ten or twelve, and even a greater number of years, suddenly, and without the _smallestprovocation_, turned round and murdered them, or turned them out oftheir houses with hardly a rag upon them, destroyed their property, andwalked over to the enemy. " Hardly a man who speaks of them, that doesnot complain of their pilfering propensities; the farmers grievously asregards their sheep. 

There were at one time some 800 rebels at Fort Hare; a great number wereallowed to depart. Some 3 or 400 were thrown into a regiment and armed;50 only of the 800 were convicted. This black regiment became sodangerous, after all the confidence bestowed upon them, that theirofficers would not go out with them, fearing more to be shot by theirown men than the enemy. Shortly after they were found sending ammunitionin large quantities to the rebels, and had to be disbanded. One of themembers of the Council contended that the Kaffir and the Hottentot (theyappeared, indeed, to make little distinction between them) are not to bepurchased with favors, or conciliated by constitutional privileges; inhis own forcible language, "I feel that no man of experience with regardto the Kaffir and Hottentot, will come to such a conclusion. Like thewild fox, they may, indeed, accept your favors and concessions, but itis only to await a more favorable opportunity of seizing their prey. "

Mr. Godlonton, from those provinces, asserted that _idleness_ had beenthe bane and ruin of the colored classes of the colony, and in theeastern provinces has led to rebellion, anarchy, robbery, and murder. 

To prove that I have not made my assertions in a previous page, inregard to the condition of the colored population, and the littlebenefit conferred upon them by emancipation, hastily and withoutauthority, I quote the opinions of many of the best informed men of thecolony, which have the greater weight as coming from persons whosepositions placed them above the power of petty prejudices. 

A Mr. Stegman gives in evidence that a portion of the Hottentots whowent from Cape Town, were in communication with the rebels in the field, and at one time hesitated whether they should use their arms againstthem, or her Majesty's troops. 

Mr. Cock stated, in debate, that within his own knowledge, there was ageneral fear of the colored races in the eastern districts of the CapeColony, and he fears that the seeds of disaffection, if not rebellion, are deeply sown within their breasts, and that, if they saw anyprobability that her Majesty's troops would be subdued, they would atonce go over to the rebels; and after asking what has brought this stateof things about--what led to the war on the frontier--the desolation ofsome of the finest districts--desecration of their homesteads, and thespilling of the best blood of the colonists--attributes it to the wantof a firm and efficient government. 

In relation to the Hottentots enrolled in the Western provinces, it isstated that when they went into the field under Colonel Mackinnon, andwere attacked near the Amatola, they were saved from destruction by theinterposition of the seventy-third regiment. 

A gentleman, who is called a "native foreigner, " thus expresses himself:"I know the Hottentot character well, as well as any man in the colony. I am a colonist born, and I believe from my soul, that it will be themost _dangerous_ experiment ever made to allow these men to vote under afranchise amounting to universal suffrage. "

The Secretary of Government stated: "We had nearly a rebellion here (atCape Town), amongst the same class of colored people as those at theEast, and although the panic had partially subsided, the hostiledisposition of that class against the whites had assuredly not. " So muchfor the fidelity of, and the confidence reposed in, the colored classesof the Cape Colony. 

The population of the Cape is heterogeneous; composed of Dutch, English, French, Germans, Malays, Hottentots, emancipated Slaves, Betjouanas, Fingoes, and others coming under the name of native foreigners; which, Itake it, means the same as the West India word "_creole_"--one born ofEuropean parents in a colony. The Dutch, as being the earliest settlers, are most numerous, of those laying claims to white blood; but all thepower is in the hands of the English, of course, who are tooquick-witted for the phlegmatic "Boer, " the term they apply to theHollander. After the French and Germans, a small proportion, and the fewMalays now left, comes the Hottentot--the Aborigine. With them areenumerated the other colored races, as having the mark of degradationstamped by the Almighty upon the first-born of mankind. The "emancipatedslaves, " having, with a few exceptions, originally sprung from thatrace, have been but little raised in the scale of humanity, during theirterm of servitude to the Dutch. 

Wished much to have visited the celebrated Observatory, but understoodits interior had been destroyed by fire, a few weeks before. There aremany constellations seen at the Cape not visible elsewhere. 

Was disappointed also in examining the Library; I wanted to overhaul thecelebrated Cape Records, said to be interesting. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

 A Death on board--Our Freight--Extracts from Diary--St. Helena and Napoleon--The Trades--Poetical idea of a starry Telegraph--Good Sailing. 

One of the invalids, whom we were bringing home from the squadron, diedand was buried at Cape Town. Poor fellow, he was never destined to seehis native land again. His disease, consumption, with the usual tendencyof that complaint, made rapid advances as we drew near land. He hadresigned himself to die, and his repeated wish was that we might reachthe Cape before he should breathe his last; that he might feel assuredof resting in consecrated ground. He was of the Catholic faith, and hadhis wish, for a priest of his religion attended his remains to theirlast resting-place, where the seagull swoops, on the shores of the"stormy Cape. "

On leaving the Cape, our ship presented the appearance of a vesselengaged by naturalists to bring home specimens; and the botanicaldepartment was represented by boxes containing specimens of sugar-caneplaced in the quarter, stern boats, and on the poop. Monkeys, belongingto the men, made a menagerie on the booms. Others of the genus _simia_were stationed in the tops; an aviary composed of cockatoos, Capeparrots, Java sparrows, minas, &c. , was dispersed through differentmesses; whilst indigenous animals, such as rats, mice, cockroaches andants, had their appropriate haunts. 

_Fifth of May. _--"Rolling down to St. Helena, " as the sailors' song hasit. Have passed the latitude of _Angra Pequena_, on the African coast, where Martin Diaz the Portuguese navigator erected a cross, and gave itthe additional title of Santa Cruz. This emblem is said to have beenlately overthrown by an English merchant captain. I can imagine theGoth, bloated with beer, and vomiting forth strange oaths!

_May the 10th. _--Still heading for St. Helena, which calculate on makingwithin three days. Have caught the "trades, " but indeed have had windsanswering their purpose ever since we left the Cape, having had themgenerally aft. 

On the 13th of May at 10 h. 30 m. Made the loom of the Island of St. Helena, bearing N. N. E. Per compass, passed it about thirty miles towindward, just twelve days and a half from the Cape, within the averagepassage. 

Helena, lone hermit of the ocean, saddened by the memory of Napoleon, its involuntary hermit. But the dead lion no longer reposes there; hisremains have been transferred to one of his own splendid monuments inunfaithful but now penitent Paris; and the spirit of prophecy must haveprompted the pen of Byron to write, long before the event took place--

 "France shall yet demand his bones!"

_May 19th. _--In latitude 8° 50' south, 19° 33' west longitude, approaching the line; have had fine trades; now getting light; weatherwarm, and fine; for the last few days summer clothing in demand. 

_Sunday, 23d of May. _--Trade wind still holds on; three sail in sight;one passed across our bows bound to the southward and westward, andshowed Dutch colors. 

_Thursday, 27th May, 1852. _--Crossed the line last night in aboutlongitude 34° west; are now in the northern Atlantic, and fairly in ourown hemisphere; have hit the same day of the month to cross it, inreturning; going out the 26th of February, 1850, and coming back the26th of May, 1852. What has passed in the interval! Is it not faithfullyrecorded on these pages?

Are now looking out for the N. E. Trades, and have symptoms of soongetting them. With luck shall make our port within a month from presentdate. 

_Tuesday, June 1st. _--Within this month expected to be detached; for thelast few days have encountered calms and squalls, line weather, and havenot made much progress; got no observation yesterday; last night at halfpast eleven the master took a lunar, which put us in 3° 17' northlatitude. Whilst writing have struck a fine breeze, which we hope willsoon carry us out of the _doldrums_. 

_Third of June. _--Latitude 7° 1' north; have caught the trades at last;after coquetting for several days, these winds, so constant when caught, have consented to fill our sails, and we are now careering along, knocking off hourly nine knots of the distance which divides us from ourhomes. It is pleasant sailing, too, in these trades, and when you oncestrike them, you feel secure of their continuance up to a certainparallel. All you have to do is to set your sails, studding-sails, royals, moonsails and sky-scrapers, if you carry them; keep them full, and let your vessel go dancing along, day after day, without handling abrace. Seamanship may take a spell below, for your ship will almost_sail herself_!

Saw the northern or polar star last night for the first time, a fewdegrees above the horizon, peeping at us with its twinkling eye, as muchas to say, welcome home! Hailed it as a link connecting us with ournative land. How many eyes of persons dear to us, look upon that star, when they think of us. Its appearance suggests the following idea:

 If to yon glittering, gleaming star, Our thoughts might wing their rapid flight, To meet in that bright orb, afar; Thoughts that are sent towards us to-night: How happy thitherward to speed, Soul meeting soul, above the wave; From earth, and earth's dark passions freed, And--oh! what _postage_ it would _save_!

_Saturday, June 5th, 1852. _--Latitude 20° 43' N. , longitude 47° 40' W. Yesterday knocked off two hundred and forty miles, averaging ten milesper hour; best run yet; only about 2200 miles distant to-day; made twohundred and twenty-four miles the last twenty-four hours. 

_Sixth of June. _--Twelve o'clock just reported, and latitude 15° 14', and have run two hundred and twenty-two miles since meridian yesterday;making six hundred and eighty-six miles in three days, an average oftwo hundred and twenty-eight and two third miles per diem. Have passedthe Windward Islands; are getting anxious now, and even if we do makegood runs, yet this practice of killing time by half hours (the bell isstruck every half hour), is becoming tedious, as we draw near home. 

CHAPTER XXX. 

 Classic Ground--Hispaniola--Romance of the Western Waters --Extracts from Diary--On a Wind--Newsboats wanted--The Bermudas--Target practice. 

We are now upon what might be called with poetical license, "classicground. " Over these seas the small caravels of Columbus sought the land, which had appeared to him in dreams, which we can now hardly look uponas less than inspired. To-day, the eighth of June, we are in thelatitude of the south side of Cuba, along the shores of which hecoasted, mistaking them for Cipango, beyond which he was to reach themagnificent country of Kathay, as described in the glowing pages ofMarco Polo, and Mandeville. 

We have passed the parallel of the Isle of St. Domingo, his beloved andheart-breaking Hispaniola. How blackened now its history, and howinapposite its name! Obliquely we run past the Lucayan Isles, lookingout almost as anxiously as he did for the "promised land. " But howopposite our situations! We, with all the certain aids of science andexperience, steer for a well-known country; whilst he, thinking to makethe far distant land from which we now return, his own mind his chart, his inspiration his guide, pointed his prow to uncertain ports inunknown seas. 

Talk of the Mediterranean, its Islands and its romance, why there ismore of the wonderful and romantic connected with the first voyages tothe western Archipelago, and the continent of America, than is comprisedin the history of the travel-stained Levant. 

Would you have the story of the Argonauts, enlarged and improved, followthe track of any of those Portuguese, Spanish, or even Englishadventurers in search of gold, to these lands, and amongst these keys, and see how the expedition for the "golden fleece" dwindles intoinsignificance. But what does my poor pen with what our own wizard ofthe west, Washington Irving, has made immortal? Turn to the pages of hisColumbus, but not before you have laid aside these. 

_Tuesday, June 8th. _--Each day decreases our distance, and we were, atmeridian, but 1600 miles from our port. The 20th is put down as the timeof our arrival now. Have been busy in preparing things for debarkation. A barque came near running into us the night before last. To-day saw twosail, a bark and brig. Sea-weed is floating by; like ourselves, returning to the Gulf from strange seas. 

_Thursday, June 10th. _--Lat. 24° 21' north. Made 218 miles the lasttwenty-four hours: about 180 the day previous, which leaves only 1200miles to run, and going nine knots. Trade still strong. 

_Friday, June 11th. _--Passed an English barque bound to the eastward. She showed her longitude on a black board. Did not hail. Showed ourlongitude, still keeping on. She was a degree out of her reckoning. 

At meridian had made 225 miles, and were in lat. 26° 47'; long. 63° 15'west. Ten days more ought to bring us in easily. 

_Sunday, June 13th. _--Lost the trades yesterday, in lat. 28° 44', long. 65° 42'; and from nine and ten knots, have come down to three and four. Made only 176 miles yesterday. To-day nearly calm; made but 80 milessince meridian yesterday. Most beautiful weather; could not be morepleasant, only have no wind. Are now in the "horse latitudes, " butcannot complain; the trade has pushed us along bravely, and served uswell. Only 720 miles from our port at meridian. 

_June 14th. _--On coming on deck this morning, found the wind had comeout nearly dead ahead, and the ship barely heading her course under atopsail breeze, with her yards braced sharp. 

It is a pretty sight, or rather Would be a pleasant thing, as theEpicurean Lucretius expresses it, "to stand upon the shore, and to seeships tossed at sea. " At least I imagined so this morning, with ourcraft "upon a wind, " whilst standing in the weather gangway, andwatching her plunge and curvet, held up to her course by the helm, as asteed by a curb, obeying its rider; but I did not think the motion asagreeable as that derived from equestrian exercise. Motion quitedisagreeable; and I made strange work at dotting i's and crossing t's. Hyphens also will connect words more closely than intended, --confoundingtoo all compound terms. Showed our colors to a brig standing to thesouthward and eastward. Impossible to speak a vessel just now; but if wecould only have gotten near one yesterday, might have communicated byboat, obtained newspapers, and learned the nominations, and generalstate of the country. By this time, two poor men, pitted against eachother for the Presidency, have doubtless been made out more miserablecharacters than their most intimate acquaintance ever supposed them tobe. And if either were elected, with the charges brought against himfully proved, it would be a disgrace to the Republic!

Twelve o'clock, and latitude just reported 30° 24'--the parallel ofNew-Orleans; longitude 68° 01'. Are getting past the Bermudas, --asusual, the "still vexed Bermoothes, " though what continues to keepBermoothes out of temper I cannot imagine. 

_Tuesday, June 15th. _--Longitude, by chronometer, 70° 47' west; latitudeobserved, 32° 12' north: are barely making a northwest course, with awesterly variation. Have the wind steady at northeast by east. Thismakes it quite cold, and flannels and thick coats are comfortable. 

_June 16th. _--In turning out this morning at four bells, found it quitecalm; and on looking at the log slate, found that the wind had gone downwithin the past hour. Took advantage of the calm to practice at atarget. Fired both batteries, --very good shooting; but the targetescaped until the last shot, which knocked off the bull's eye, anddismounted the gun. 

Whilst exercising, a clipper ship passed at some distance from us, boundto southward and eastward. 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

 The Gulf Stream--Darby's Theory--Its ingenuity--The Coasts of America--John Cabot, the Venetian--"_Terra Primum Visa_"--Completion of Cruise--Conclusion. 

_Thursday, June 17th. _--Have at last got amongst the variable winds, forwe struck a breeze yesterday immediately after exercising, and wentpitching along at the rate of eight knots before dark. Sea quite rough. This morning calm again. Have touched the edge of the Gulf Stream, judging from the temperature of the water, and general appearance of theweather. Darby's theory of this current is so learned and philosophical, that I may be excused giving place to it here. In his theme, The Earth, he touches upon this phenomena, and explains it thus: "The earth turnsround upon its axis once in twenty-four hours, and consequently fifteendegrees of its meridians revolve hourly; therefore, by multiplying thebreadth of any number of degrees of longitude by fifteen, we have thehourly motion of that part of the earth's surface round the axis; as, for example, in lat. 45°, a degree of long. Is 48-3/4 English mileswide, within a trifling fraction. From these elements, it results thatparticles of matter on lat. 45° on the surface of the earth, revolveabout 630 miles hourly: this is nearly the mean motion, as the maximumat the equator is a fraction less than 1, 040 miles hourly, anddecreasing along the meridians, until it becomes 0 at either pole. "

From this hypothesis he reasons that atmospheric and oceanic masses aremoved along with the decumbent nucleus with a velocity decreasing fromthe equator to the poles; and if the least retardation operates on theatmospheric and oceanic waters, a counter-current will be formed, flowing with the greatest rapidity where the retardation is greatest. This, he says, occurs along the equator, where the horary motion is atits maximum; and thus the tropic current is formed. This currentreceives volume and velocity from another cause, which is thusexplained: "Immediately under the sun, or where the beams of thatluminary are direct, a vacuum is produced, into which the circumambientair rushes; and as this vacuity is carried westward along the equator, upwards of 1, 035 miles hourly, an atmospheric current follows, which, acting on the ocean waters, impels them westward, and adds force andmass to the tropic current. In the Atlantic Ocean, from the peculiarstructure of its shores, a very remarkable phenomenon--the GulfStream--is produced. South America, in form an immense triangle, isbased on the Pacific, and protrudes its perpendicular angle into theAtlantic at south latitude 6°. This salient point is Cape St. Roque, from which the continent extends to the northwest, crosses the equator, and stretches beyond the northern tropic, forming in the Gulf of Mexicoan immense reservoir. Here the continent again turns at right angles, and continues northeast into the northern polar circle. The very deepindenting of the American Continent in the Gulf of Mexico, and the longline of coast from its recesses into the southern section of the torridzone, is in a peculiar manner calculated to produce that very reflux, which constitutes the largest whirlpool on the globe. "

Much more does this ingenious writer advance, but my limits prevent itsinsertion here, and the subject is not exactly in accordance with thetenor of my task. Suffice it for the present, that upon this day, the18th of June, we have passed over this equatorial current, and are nowheading for our native shores, and are in the waters made classic by theglorious endeavors of the early navigators. Strange is it that of allthose who sought this coast, the name of John Cabot, the firstadventurer who landed upon it, should be so seldom mentioned: andHistory, called by a philosopher a Splendid Lie, should prove its titleto mendacity, by giving all the glory of the land, "_primum visa_" tohis son, Sebastian. To John Cabot, a Venetian, then a merchant ofBristol, England, in the reign of the Seventh Henry, is all the honor tobe ascribed of setting the first European foot upon the then desertwilds that now bloom, the Garden of the United States; and if a namemust be derived from the discoverer, without reference to its euphony, to descend as a patronymic, by such a rule, we should be calledCabotians, instead of Yankees, United Staters, or by the Vespucian titleof Americans. 

But to Columbus attaches all the fame of the original idea of navigatingthe Western Seas, and if he did not set foot upon the shores towardswhich we are now sailing, his voyage incited others to undertake whatperhaps would never otherwise have been dreamed of, and the tropicswould long after have remained painted in their imaginations as a circleof fire in which the Salamander sported. About a year after the Genoesehad returned from his first voyage--I quote from an Italian, Tiraboschi--the merchant of Bristol appears to have embraced the ideathat new lands might be discovered in the North West, and a passage toIndia might be brought to light by this course. And, in answer to hisapplication, on the 5th of March, 1495, King Henry the Seventh granted acommission to John Cabot and his three sons, Louis, Sebastian, andSanchez. And on the 24th of June, 1497, he discovered that part of thisContinent, which he called "_Terra primum Visa_" nearly a year previousto the discovery of the country south of the Isthmus of Darien. But, _satis superque_, we have had almost enough of ships and the sea. Ourprow is directed towards our own loved shores; the southern gales waftus propitiously on them; with each swell of the ocean, our bosoms heavein unison, our hearts leap forwards with our gallant barque, over everyobstructing wave:

 "Bend, bend, ye lithe and quivering spars, Point home my country's stripes and stars. "

It is evening, and yon setting sun, whose course we have tracked fromthe lonely anchorage in the Typa, down the China Seas, across the IndianOcean, and over the wide expanse of the Atlantic, sinks slowly to nightbehind the mountains of our own broad and beautiful land. They gild thespire of an ancient village church, beneath which, in the days that areno more, our youthful ears drank in the kindly teachings of thegray-headed and venerable man, now forming one of the congregation thatsleeps beneath the green sod surrounding it. They gild, with a goldentint, the attic windows of an old homestead, behind the small panes ofwhich, there came to us once, more golden, but equally unsubstantial, visions, when our hearts, untravelled, sank to slumbers light and sweet. Ere its next setting, have hopes that the telegraph wires will conveythither the glad news of our safe return. 

We have taken a pilot on board; the chain cables are ranged forward oneither gangway, bent to the anchors, ready for letting go; the changingcolor of the water denotes soundings, and every thing indicates we shallsoon be in. 

Patient reader, my Cruise is completed. Its preparation has beguiled meof many a monotonous hour at sea. If either at sea or on shore it be, inthis manner beneficial to you, I shall be satisfied. We must part. I bidyou adieu, with a feeling towards you as if you had been my _compagnondu voyage_; and fervently wish that your Cruise of Life may be overplacid seas, to pleasant ports, and always in company with kind andgenerous friends. 

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Transcriber's Notes:

Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words preserved. (ahoy, a-hoy;cocoanut, cocoa-nut; flagship, flag-ship; Lintin, Lin-tin; lookout, look-out; northeast, north-east; shipboard, ship-board; topgallant, top-gallant; Tyfoong, Ty-foong; Woosung, Woo-sung)

Pg. 58, name d'Assis is also rendered as D'Assis in other instances onthe same and subsequent pages. Original text preserved in allinstances. 

Pg. 65, "allthough" changed to "although" (although her owner appearedto)

Pg. 84, unusual spelling "grandiliquose" retained. 

Pg. 119, "afterterwards" changed to "afterwards". (treaty which wasafterwards)

Pg. 127, "fom" changed to "from". (No news from home!)

Pg. 137, "o" changed to "of". (much reluctance that these Celestialcitizens of)

Pg. 165, "unshophisticated" changed to "unsophisticated". (appeared tomy unsophisticated)

Pg. 168, "supended" changed to "suspended". (suspended from an oar)

Pg. 179, name of corvette "Don Jooa", is spelled "Don Joao" on page 83. Original text preserved in both instances. 

Pg. 191, "unobstrusive" changed to "obtrusive". (his unobstrusivemanners)

Pg. 196, unmatched doublequote marks in block of quoted speech: "ifBritannia . .. To the "_Line_!". To avoid ambiguity, this has beenchanged to "if Britannia . .. To the '_Line_!'". 

Pg. 214, paragraph ending with '. .. Robbery and murder. ' In theoriginal text this paragraph ended with a doublequote mark indicatingthat some portion of the paragraph was quoted speech. However anopening doublequote mark was missing and it was not clear where thequoted speech began. Perhaps the quote speech began after 'assertedthat' but there is no way of being sure. Hence, the closing doublequotemark has been removed from the paragraph. 

Pg. 223, "af" changed to "of". (the story of the Argonauts)