FROM YAUCO TO LAS MARIAS

A Recent Campaign in Puerto Rico by the Independent Regular Brigadeunder the command of BRIG. GENERAL SCHWAN

by

KARL STEPHEN HERRMAN

[Illustration: Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U. S. Volunteers. ]

TO ROBERT SMITH COBB

MY BROTHER LORD IN CERTAIN ISLES OF FRIENDSHIP AND OWNER OF PRECIOUS CARGOIN MY SHIP OF DREAMS

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I

The Independent Regular Brigade

Place of meeting--Forces comprised by the command--Why we were not like theVolunteers--Characteristics of the professional soldier--Sketches of themore important officers--What we were ordered to do. 

CHAPTER II

The First Day's March

Disposition of our column--The road to Sabana Grande--The infantrymen'sburden--Wayside hospitality--Hard tack and repartee--Into camp and underblankets--Arrival of Macomb's troop--A smoke-talk. 

CHAPTER III

The People of Puerto Rico

Their attitude toward the invading Americans--The proclamation of GeneralMiles--Justice and the private soldier--Depravity of the native masses--Menand women of the better class--Local attributes of life--A hint to theweary. 

CHAPTER IV

The Second Day Begins

We march to San German--Removal of the sick from the ambulances--Anapproaching Spanish force--Our scouts and their leader--Concerning SeñorFijardo--Visible effects of imminent battle--Something about the town ofSan German. 

CHAPTER V

The Engagement at Hormigueros

Topography of the battlefield--Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanishskirmishers--Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe--GeneralSchwan reaches the firing line--The main body arrives and joins inthe fray--Subsequent manoeuvres of our column--The Spanish retreat--Acomputation of losses. 

CHAPTER VI

The Second Day Ends

A personal résumé of the fight--Lack of melodramatic accompaniments--A lostchance of glory--Another neglected opportunity--A glimpse of the flag--Oncemore into camp. 

CHAPTER VII

The Occupation of Mayaguez

We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girland the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags andtatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--TheFirst Kentucky Volunteers. 

CHAPTER VIII

The Engagement at Las Marias

Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy--Finaldetermination upon pursuit--Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets forth--Discoveryof Spanish troops near Las Marias--A one-sided encounter--Unwelcomenotification of truce--The rest of the brigade comes up--Feeding theprisoners--Our disappointment. 

CHAPTER IX

The Territory Won

General Schwan returns to Mayaguez--Business and pleasure--A customwe abolished--Extent of the district captured by our brigade--Aguadilla--Facilities for transportation--Labor and thelaborer--The cost of living--Rents and real estate--Skilled workmen--A wordabout investments. 

CHAPTER X

The End of the Campaign

Arrival of the mail-steamer--The soldier-boy and his letters--The greaterpart of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez--Agriculture in PuertoRico--Material result of our campaign--A farewell order--General Schwandeparts for the United States. 

A Brief Sketch of the Life of Brigadier-General Schwan

APPENDIX

THE ILLUSTRATIONS

Theodore Schwan, Brigadier-General U. S. VolunteersStatue of Columbus, MayaguezAmerican Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th of AugustThe Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous for Runaway LoversPlaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in BackgroundSpanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias to MayaguezPlaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the New Flag's Advent, under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and their PupilsThe Plaza of San German on Market-dayLower Quarter of MayaguezA Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, MayaguezPositions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish at HormiguerosRailroad from Mayaguez to AguadillaThe Theatre, MayaguezCustom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan as Brigade HeadquartersRoad from Mayaguez to AñascoLower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, MayaguezGuenar Bridge, MayaguezUpper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, MayaguezThe Town of Sabana GrandeWitch River, near Cabo RojoAmerican Camp at MayaguezPlaza Mercado, MayaguezMouth of the Mayaguez RiverA Bit of YaucoWooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen the German Man-of-war "Geier""Eleventh of August" StreetThe Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at HormiguerosThe Military Hospital, MayaguezPart of the Village of MaricaoInfantry Barracks, MayaguezThe Rosario River, near HormiguerosA Street in San GermanTobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), MayaguezThe Plaza Principal in Mayaguez looking toward the ChurchA Ruined Church along our Line of MarchA Puerto Rican LaundryWatering the Artillery Horses at YaucoA Native Bull-teamOn the Road to LaresThe Best Outfit in our Wagon Train"Promenade of the Fleas" in YaucoWhen only One Man gets a LetterThe "Weary Travellers' Spring, " near AñascoA Crude Sugar Mill near Las MariasA very Popular SpotTwo Knights and a Pawn

INTRODUCTION

I have ventured to set down in this place the following bald and briefitems of our recent history, not because I doubt an already existing commonknowledge of their substance, but simply because they serve to illuminateand give finish to the succeeding narrative. 

Major-General Miles sailed from Guantanamo, Cuba, on the 21st of July, 1898; and landed at Guanica, Puerto Rico, on the 25th of the same month. The troops sailing with him numbered 3, 554 officers and men, mainlycomposed of volunteers from Massachusetts, Illinois, and the Districtof Columbia, with a complement of regulars in five batteries of lightartillery, thirty-four privates from the battalion of engineers, anddetachments of recruits, signal, and hospital corps. 

On August 1st he was re-enforced by General Schwan's brigade of the FourthArmy Corps and part of General Wilson's division of the First Corps, raising his numerical strength to 9, 641 officers and men. The Spanishforces in Puerto Rico at that time numbered some 18, 000, about evenlydivided between regulars and volunteers, and scattered advantageously over3, 700 square miles of territory. By the end of August the American strengthhad nearly doubled. 

In the brief campaign that followed, a large part of the island wascaptured by the United States forces, and the positions of all the Spanishgarrisons, except that at San Juan, were made untenable. There werealtogether six engagements, --at Guanica Road, Guayamo (2), Coamo, Hormigueros, Aibonito, and Las Marias, --with a total loss to the Spaniardsof about 450 killed and wounded, while the American casualties of the samenature amounted to 43. 

General Miles, in his scheme of operations, intended that three columnsof our troops--each composed of infantry, cavalry, artillery, and theiradjuncts--should march through the eastern, western, and central parts ofthe island, respectively, diverging at Ponce and coalescing before SanJuan. The entire success of this plan was prevented only by the arrival ofthe order to suspend hostilities, on the 13th of August. 

The column marching east--known as the First Division, First ArmyCorps--was commanded by Major-General James H. Wilson, and took part inthree engagements. The column sent through the interior--known as theProvisional Division--was commanded by Brigadier-General Guy V. Henry, andmet no opposition of moment. 

The third column, called the Independent Regular Brigade, and directedto proceed through the western section of the island, was commanded byBrigadier-General Theodore Schwan, and had two engagements with theAlphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores. 

It is the story of General Schwan's campaign that I am about to relate. 

CHAPTER I

The Independent Regular Brigade

_Place of meeting_--_Forces comprised by the command_--_Why we werenot like the Volunteers_--_Characteristics of the professionalsoldier_--_Sketches of the more important officers_--_What we were orderedto do_. 

Yauco, the place selected by General Miles as a rendezvous for the troopsof the Independent Regular Brigade, is a town of about 15, 000 inhabitants, and some six miles distant from Guanica. It is connected both by rail andwagon-road with Ponce, the largest city on the island, and is noted for itsSpanish proclivities, fine climate, excellent running water, and setting ofmountains--luxuriantly green throughout the year. 

Here were assembled on the evening of Aug. 8, 1898, all the forces assignedto General Schwan, with the exception of Troop "A, " Fifth Cavalry, whichdid not appear until some thirty hours later. The command was composed ofthe Eleventh Infantry, Light Battery "D" of the Fifth Artillery, LightBattery "C" of the Third Artillery, and the troop of cavalry alreadymentioned, --all regulars, and as resolute and picturesque a set of men asever wore the uniform of war. 

 * * * * *

Because we had no Volunteers with us, we were not granted even one littleword-spattering newspaper scribe, and so relinquished at the outset anyfugitive hopes of glory that otherwise might have been entertained. We wereout for business, --hard marching, hard living, hard fighting, --and theopening vista was fringed with gore. We were none of us the darlings of anyparticular State, nor the precious offspring of a peripatetic statesmanwith a practised pull. We were at no time decimated by disease throughignorant or insubordinate disregard of the primary principles of hygiene. We didn't write long wailing letters home because we were obliged to sleepon the damp ground, and had neither hot rolls, chocolate, nor marmalade forbreakfast. We were ragged, hungry, tough, and faithful. In other words, wewere regular army men, and, most distinctly, _not_ Volunteers. 

[Illustration: Statue of Columbus, Mayaguez. ]

There is a personality peculiar to the professional soldier, even thoughhe be but a half-fledged recruit, that defies analysis and bafflesdescription. He is of course built from the same clay as his brother of theVolunteers; but the latter is a tin god, and the former is a devil. Yet thedifference does not spring from anything more fundamental than environment, and therein lies the solace of the other fellow. Putting aside all odiouscomparisons and limiting myself to a view of the regular army man as I knowhim, I can simply say that in the eight months during which I underwentin his company hard knocks and privations without number I could not havefound a more truly satisfactory comrade and friend. He doesn't, on theaverage, know much about books; nor did he ever hear of the EtruscanInscriptions or the Pyramidal Policy of the Ancient Egyptians. He takes agrim delight in smashing the English language into microscopic atoms at asingle blow. He is more fond of women, horses, and prize-fighting than isgood for him. He will steal when he is hungry, lie to save his skin, cursemost terribly on trifling provocation, and spend, to his last sou markee, his hard-won wage on adulterated drink. 

 "He's a devil an' a ostrich an' a orphan-child in one. "

But he will stand his ground in action while there is ground to stand on;he will throw his life away at a moment's notice for the flag, or a chosencomrade, or a worthless girl; he will march and starve and thirst worldwithout end if he has a leader who holds his confidence; and he is, on thewhole, a rather fine specimen of the true American--being usually Irish orGerman. 

[Illustration: American Cavalry entering Mayaguez on the 11th ofAugust. ]

Our brigade commander, General Theodore Schwan--silent, upright, tall, and spare--was regarded with affection and respect by every one whocame into personal contact with him, officer and man alike. He was shrewd, clever, and distinguished, but never too busy or elevated to listen to thehumblest soldier from the ranks, and from first to last a gentleman. Of hisstaff it is the highest praise to say that they were in every way worthy oftheir chief. Bluff Captain Davison, gruff Captain Hutcheson, studious MajorRoot, saturnine Major Egan, wounded Lieutenant Byron, patient LieutenantPoore, dashing Captain Elkins, and courteous Lieutenant Summerlin, I saluteyou all in the most military manner of the soldier dismounted! You were myfriends in need, you lent me money, you gave me fatherly counsel and passesof freedom to the shimmering tropic dawn--and I shall not forget. 

At the head of the Eleventh Infantry was Colonel I. D. DeRussy, who, withhis ministerial drawl and dry wit, was a sharp contrast to his blunt, impetuous, and fiery second in command, Lieutenant-Colonel Burke. But, sofar as I am aware, perpetual harmony reigned between them; and both werebeloved by their men. The battalion of artillery was commanded by CaptainFrank Thorp of Light Battery "D, " my own outfit. He was best known in theranks as "Side-wheeler, " from a peculiarity of gait, and, though well onin years, was at all times gallant, courageous, and capable. A stiffdisciplinarian, he kept his guardhouse well filled from week to week; buthe was as quick to reward as punish, when warranted by circumstances. Itis worthy of note that although he took each day enough medicine to lay anordinary man on his back, or in an early grave, yet he was well and fitfrom start to finish. 

Captain Macomb of the Fifth Cavalry is not an easy man to describe in coldink. Handsome, stalwart, and grave; black-haired, black-eyed, a scarf ofyellow knotted at his throat, --he was Custer without the vanity or Lancelotdevoid a Guinevere. 

[Illustration: The Public Fountain in Aguadilla, a Favorite Rendezvous forRunaway Lovers. ]

When he clattered through the many quaint little towns abutting on our lineof march, he was followed by a billow of sighs from behind the half-closedlattices, though I dare say he knew nothing about it; for indeed he wasno heart-breaker, but a true soldier. I recommend him to either RudyardKipling or Richard Harding Davis. 

Said General Miles, in a letter of instruction to General Schwan under dateof August 6, 1898:--

"You will drive out or capture all Spanish troops in the western portionof Puerto Rico. You will take all necessary precautions and exercise greatcare against being surprised or ambushed by the enemy, and will make themovement as rapidly as possible, at the same time exercising your bestjudgment in the care of your command, to accomplish the object of yourexpedition. "

And this programme we were now ready to carry out. 

CHAPTER II

The First Day's March

_Disposition of our column_--_The road to Sabana Grande_--_Theinfantrymen's burden_--_Wayside hospitality_--_Hard tack andrepartee_--_Into camp and under blankets_--_Arrival of Macomb's troop_--_Asmoke-talk. _

[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. Town Hall in background. ]

The disposition and arrangement of our forces on the first day's march canbest be shown by the following document:--

HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), CAMP AT YAUCO, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 8, 1898. 

GENERAL ORDERS No. 13. 

This command will move out on the road to Sabana Grande at ten o'clocktomorrow morning. It will observe the following rules and order of march:--

1. Macomb's troop of cavalry will act as a screen, and will march about twomiles in advance of the point of the advance-guard. The extent of the frontto be covered by, and the disposition of the cavalry, will depend uponthe nature of the country, and will be left to the judgment of the troopcommander. He will communicate freely by means of orderlies with thecommander of the advance-guard, who will at once transmit all messages tothe commanding general. Three mounted orderlies to be furnished by thetroop, will march with the advance-guard. 

2. Two companies of infantry, one platoon of artillery, and two Gatlingguns will constitute the advance-guard. A pioneer detachment, consisting ofone non-commissioned officer and eight men, to be carefully selected fromthe advance-guard, will march with the reserve, and will be under thedirection of the engineer officer of the brigade. The requisite toolswill be carried on a cart. Upon arriving in camp, the advance-guard willimmediately establish the outpost. 

3. The main body will consist of nine companies of infantry, one batteryand two platoons of artillery, and two Gatling guns. 

4. The trains following the main body will be under the direction of thebrigade quartermaster, and their order of march will be:--

 Hospital train. Ammunition column. Supply and baggage wagons. 

The rear-guard will be composed of one company of infantry. A detachmentfrom it will protect exposed flanks of the train. If horses can be procuredfor them, the commanders of the advance and rear guards will be mounted. 

The above disposition for each day's march will be conformed to, unlessotherwise ordered. 

By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. 

GROTE HUTCHESON, _Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General. _

[Illustration: Spanish Prisoners who were brought from Las Marias toMayaguez. ]

As Captain Macomb's cavalry had not arrived at the hour appointed for ourstart, we set off without him. And in fact there was little need of hisservices on that day, our march being through a section of the islandalready cleared of Spanish troops, and exceedingly slow and wearisome, besides. 

The route from Yauco to Sabana Grande lies for some two miles along thelevel and creditable road leading to Guanica, suddenly going off at rightangles just beyond a picturesque sugar-mill into as uneven, crooked, andhilly a highway as can well be imagined. 

I cannot tell you in adequate language just how the tropical sun punishesthe unacclimated Northerner, especially if he be a foot-soldier trampingalong in a blinding dust, parched of throat, empty of belly, and loadeddown with a pack that would make a quartermaster's mule to fake theglanders. If you have been there, it needs no words of mine to galvanizeyour memory; and, if you have not, you cannot understand. This matter ofthe soldier's pack and what to do with it became a subject of seriousconsideration during the recent war, in both Cuba and Puerto Rico. On themarch, in the charge or pursuit or retreat, it is a senseless, clogging, spirit-shackling incubus, a rank absurdity, and an utter impossibility. Asa result, after three days of active campaign the infantryman is seen gaylystalking along with no burden save his rifle, ammunition-belt, and a wispof gray blanket, which seems to me to be a fatuous and footless conditionof affairs that might well be quickly remedied for the benefit of allconcerned. 

[Illustration: Plaza Principal, Mayaguez. A Public Celebration of the NewFlag's Advent, under the Auspices of the Local School-teachers and theirPupils. ]

As we passed the occasional little hacienda, set in its grove of cocoanutpalms or orange-trees, dusky and wrinkled women came forth from the doors, bearing upon their heads huge jars, from which we filled our ever-parchedcanteens with cool, sweet water. They also brought us mangoes and othernative fruits, and queer cigars of most abominable flavor. Because we wereforbidden to eat of the fruit, we stuffed ourselves with it, and looked formore. From time to time a weary or sick soldier would lay himself down bythe roadside, to be picked up later on by an ambulance; but, as the daywore on, the intervals of rest grew longer and more frequent. We had butone opportunity to water the sweating horses of the artillery, and then itwas a painful matter of buckets. We munched hard-tack for our noonday meal, and made merry over it, talking of the day when we should go home and feaston beans and beefsteak and countless other things of which the heathenwot not. We were intensely voluble or silent by turns, and invented newnicknames for each other, which were so apt, spite of being touched withbitterness, that they stuck forevermore. And never, so far as I canremember, did any one mention the "Maine" or Cuba Libre. 

At last, shortly after sunset, we descended a long, steep hillside, andwent into camp in the valley of the Rio Grande, just without the gates of asmall town, uninteresting in character, and Sabana Grande by name. We hadmarched only twelve miles, but were hungry, limp, and ugly. So, havingcrammed down a hasty supper of nothing in particular, we made short shiftof absent tents, and, pulling our blankets to our chins, lay face upwardto the stars that made us homesick, and slept the sleep of tired littlechildren. 

I was wakened in the middle of the night by a distant jangle of sabres andrattle of hooves. Seeing our officer of the day, Lieutenant R. E. Callan, standing not far away and looming gigantic against the sky, I asked him themeaning of the noise; and he replied that it was Captain Macomb's troopof cavalry just coming in. I lit my pipe and talked for a while with thelieutenant of other things than war--Maude Adams and John Drew, football, ambition, and books--till finally he went away to make his rounds. My pipewent out, and I dreamed of stranger happenings than my longest thoughtscould fashion in the glare of day. And, when I woke again, reveille wassoaring from post to post. 

[Illustration: The Plaza of San German on Market-day. ]

CHAPTER III

The People of Puerto Rico

_Their attitude toward the invading Americans_--_The proclamation ofGeneral Miles_--_justice and the private soldier_--_Depravity of thenative masses_--_Men and women of the better class_--_Local attributes oflife_--_A hint to the weary. _

Before proceeding further with the story of our advance, it may interestyou to know what manner of people we found the Puerto Ricans to be, and howthey behaved toward us who came to them as dogs of war. 

When we were first on the island, there is no doubt that the mass of thepopulation regarded us with acute distrust, if not with dislike and fear. But the prompt measures taken by General Miles to disabuse their minds ofany preconceived ideas of ensuing rape, robbery, or desecration, didmuch to soothe the more ignorant and childish of the natives, while theintelligent and educated class needed no further assurance than thatcontained in the proclamation issued by the commanding general from Ponceon the 28th of July, which was as follows:--

TO THE INHABITANTS OF PUERTO RICO:

In the prosecution of the war against the kingdom of Spain by the peopleof the United States, in the cause of liberty, justice, and humanity, itsmilitary forces have come to occupy the island of Puerto Rico. They comebearing the banner of freedom, inspired by a noble purpose to seek theenemies of our country and yours, and to destroy or capture all who are inarmed resistance. They bring you the fostering arm of a free people, whosegreatest power is in its justice and humanity to all those living withinits fold. Hence the first effect of this occupation will be the immediaterelease from your former relations, and it is hoped a cheerful acceptanceof the government of the United States. The chief object of the Americanmilitary forces will be to overthrow the armed authority of Spain, and togive the people of your beautiful island the largest measure of libertyconsistent with this occupation. We have not come to make war upon thepeople of a country that for centuries has been oppressed, but, on thecontrary, to bring you protection, not only to yourselves, but to yourproperty; to promote your prosperity, and bestow upon you the immunitiesand blessings of the liberal institutions of our government. It is not ourpurpose to interfere with any existing laws and customs that are wholesomeand beneficial to your people so long as they conform to the rules ofmilitary administration of order and justice. This is not a war ofdevastation, but one to give all within the control of its military andnaval forces the advantages and blessings of enlightened civilization. 

NELSON A. MILES, _Major-General, Commanding United States Army_. 

[Illustration: Lower Quarter of Mayaguez. ]

The promises set forth in this document were kept to the letter. Indeed, Justice sat up so straight for the people of Puerto Rico that she oftentoppled over backward and crushed the American soldier. To steal anything, from a kiss to a cow, was almost a capital offence; while houses andchurches might have been lined with gold and jasper, or infected with thesmall-pox, so stringently were we kept out of them--at least during thehostile period. 

This was all a mighty good thing for somebody, no doubt, but it detractedin large chunks from the glamour of war for the soldier-boy; and I fearthat the majority of us felt hurt, if not sorely cheated. Nor is it atall certain that the average inhabitant of Puerto Rico is worth coddling, protection, prosperity, "and the immunities and blessings" accorded him byhis new rulers. A thick, stout cudgel or a bright, sharp axe will be moreeffective than honeyed words in helping him cheerfully to assimilate newideas; though no one will believe it here at home until the hurrah is allover and some of the truth gets into general circulation. 

[Illustration: A Mid-section of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez. ]

About one-sixth of the population in this island--the educated class, andchiefly of pure Spanish blood--can be set down as valuable acquisitions toour citizenship and the peer, if not the superior, of most Americans inchivalry, domesticity, fidelity, and culture. Of the rest, perhaps one-halfcan be moulded by a firm hand into something approaching decency; but theremainder are going to give us a great deal of trouble. They are ignorant, filthy, untruthful, lazy, treacherous, murderous, brutal, and black Spainhas kept her hand at their throats for many weary years, and the only thingthat has saved them from being throttled is the powerful influence intheir discipline effected by the Roman Catholic Church. When our zealousmissionaries have succeeded in leading them into the confines of othercreeds, we shall have all the excitement we want in Puerto Rico, and thepart of our army stationed there will have no lack of exercise. 

Despite a common belief to the contrary, the color-line is drawn asrigidly in Puerto Rico as it is in Kentucky. The people having nothing butCastilian blood in their veins are as proud as Virtue; and, while politicsand business see a certain mingling of skin-colors, the mixture ceases toexist across the threshold of home. No true Spaniard would permit himselfto sing of his "coal-black lady" or his "cute little yallar gal"; and, ifhe did, he would be ostracized. 

The women are all very pretty or extremely ugly, and never simply plain. The girls of the better class are brought up from babyhood under a constantsurveillance that knows no laxity until after marriage, and does notaltogether cease even then. The growing bud is taught to play the piano orguitar, to embroider, to sing a little, to dance a little less, to speakand read French, to powder her face with art, and to walk like a veryqueen. She is usually married before she is seventeen, especially if herfather has money; and, until the day of her death, she never sees a modernnewspaper, never goes slumming, and never soils her gentle hands with workof any degree. She is apt to love her husband devotedly, and does not thinkher career fitly rounded until she is a mother. 

[Illustration: Positions occupied by Spanish Soldiers in the Skirmish atHormigueros. ]

The men of the same social footing are not so interesting--to me; but, nevertheless, they possess many characteristics which claim attention anddeserve applause. They are never drunkards or wife-beaters; they don't dragtheir business to the dinner-table and bed; they are not given to profanespeech; and they show greater interest in a sonnet than in the price ofpork. 

Life for both sexes and all grades in Puerto Rico is a rose, a kiss, anda cigarette; song, laughter, and mañana. The island is, unequivocally, aParadise; and, if I remember rightly, dwellers in Paradise are not expectedto labor. These people amply fulfill the expectation. 

If you are sick of the worry and fret and jar of contemporaneous life hereat home, if you care for wide, sweet blue sky, eternal flowers, crystalfountains, and gypsy music, then there is no better place for you to gothan to Puerto Rico. Take a bicycle and ride from Ponce around the islandor straight across to San Juan. You will find the roads, when there areroads, superlatively excellent--particularly, if you do not mind anoccasional hill or sharp and sudden shower of rain. The larger cities allhave comfortable hotels; and, if you can afford to stay a month in Ponce, Mayaguez, and San Juan, you will bring back fragrant memories that willlast you many years, or else you will send for your household gods and notcome back at all. And, if you don't ride a bicycle, you will be able to getjust as much pleasure from the toy railroad or wee horses when you travelabout from place to place, while the expense in either case will bemarvellously small. 

[Illustration: Railroad from Mayaguez to Aguadilla. ]

CHAPTER IV

The Second Day Begins

_We march to San German_--_Removal of the sick from the ambulances_--_Anapproaching Spanish force_--_Our scouts and their leader_--_ConcerningSeñor Fijardo_--_Visible effects of imminent battle_--_Something about thetown of San German_. 

At eight o'clock in the morning on the 10th of August General Schwan'sbrigade broke camp at Sabana Grande, and moved out on the road to SanGerman. The order of march differed from that of the day before only in thepresence of the troop of cavalry; and, the command being well rested, suchprogress was made that the advance-guard reached the western side of SanGerman by noon--a good ten miles. The main body halted at the same hourjust outside the eastern entrance to the town, preparing a makeshift meal;and at this point the sick, both on their own account and to make room inthe already crowded ambulances, were transferred to a private hospital. 

Before quitting San German, word was brought to the commanding generalthat the entire Mayaguez garrison--some 1, 362 men, chiefly regulars--wasmarching in our direction, and would contest our advance. This information, which proved to be correct, was at once communicated to the cavalry andadvance-guard, with orders to proceed with the greatest care, and to reducesomewhat the distances ordinarily separating the different parts of thecolumn. 

Our source of information at this and other important times was a smallbody of native scouts, numbering from 6 to 11 men and commanded by LugoVina, a swarthy, wizened little Puerto Rican, who looked like General Gomezand was taciturn as an Indian. He was considered by General Schwan to bea man of great character and force. These scouts were well mounted, andaccompanied the brigade during its entire march, rendering most importantand efficient service. Three of them were arrested as spies by Spanishofficials between Las Marias and Mayaguez, and narrowly escaped being shot. Eventually, they suffered nothing worse than imprisonment for severalmonths at San Juan; and, when the Evacuation Commission arranged for theirrelease, the United States reimbursed them to the full extent of theirwages for the period of their captivity. 

[Illustration: The Theatre, Mayaguez. ]

For the position of "alcade" or Mayor of the city of Mayaguez GeneralSchwan had a most difficult task. 

Someone thoroughly acquainted with the country and its people was wantedand the selection fell to a prosperous planter residing within thejurisdiction of Mayaguez--who had been--while not properly speaking, ascout--was yet of considerable service to General Schwan as an interpreterand guide up to the taking of Mayaguez. And because he had in addition beenexceedingly useful to our government before the actual breaking out of thewar, it was the wish of General Miles to confer upon him some suitablereward immediately hostilities were suspended. General Schwan was preparedto make this appointment, but so strong an opposition to the plan sprangspontaneously from the inhabitants of the municipality most interested thatthe appointment was held up. 

After a careful consideration of all the remonstrances and the strenuousdenial by the candidate of all and every allegation and his desire thatthe promised honor be conferred upon him at once and without delay, it wasdecided by General Schwan that in the face of so much opposition there wasnothing to do but to leave the residents of Mayaguez to decide the questionfor themselves which they did in a most emphatic manner by refusing toendorse the planter as a possibility, and presenting the name of SeñorSantiago Palmer as an acceptable party. 

This latter gentleman subsequently received the appointment, which wassatisfactory to all concerned. 

 * * * * *

The news that we were about to meet the Spanish forces face to face spreadrapidly among the men in the ranks, and aroused more enthusiasm thanterrapin and champagne could have done. Nobody any longer complained of theheat; and, when it began to shower by fits and starts, nobody complained ofthat, either. There were no more stragglers casting a windward eye to anempty ambulance, nor growls because we pressed forward so rapidly. 

[Illustration: Custom-house at Mayaguez occupied by General Schwan asBrigade Headquarters. ]

On that particular afternoon I was with the advance-guard; and, when we hadlearned what we might expect before sunset, I studied the men about me witha lively curiosity as to what effect the probability of immediate actionwould have upon their visible emotions. 

Most of them, in our platoon of artillery at least, were boys, or littlemore than boys, and almost without exception recruits of less than sixmonths' standing. It might have been expected that some degree ofgravity would have crept over them in the nearness of such unpleasantpossibilities; but never were they more gay and care-free, to allappearance. Old jests already worn to shreds before we left the transportat Guanica were once more revived, and capered with new life. Good-naturedirony flew from lip to lip in fantastic speculation as to probablepromotions in case all the officers should be killed at the first go-off. The horses were told, individually and with great tenderness, just whatevery man expected of them in the approaching crisis. And no comrade gaveanother any instructions regarding mother or the girl at home, if he wereto bite the dust. For my own part, I found my mind so busy in going overthe cadences of a waltz I had danced with Somebody months before that Icould not bring myself to consider anything else but the beauty of itsrefrain--or was it Her eyes?--try as I might. And, besides, it is notprofitable to shake hands with the devil until you are within reach of hisclaw. 

[Illustration: Road from Mayaguez to Añasco. ]

The wagon-road leading from San German, over which we were now marching, follows the valley of the Rio Grande, whose flats, varying in width from afew hundred to a thousand yards, extend on each side to a chain of hills. On either hand, in the immediate distance, are fields of sugar-cane, bounded wherever they touch the road by wire fences. 

San German, the city through which we had just passed, is a place of nearly10, 000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction numbering 30, 600. It has threevery fine markets, a charity hospital, a seminary, good school buildings, theatre, and casino. There is a railroad in construction, a post-office andtelegraph station. It is situated on a long, uneven hill, at the foot ofwhich lies the beautiful valley of the Juanjibos and Boqueròn Rivers, which is made a veritable garden of enchantment by the orange, lemon, and tamarind trees, together with various other plants, growing there inabundance. The town was founded in 1511 by Captain Miguel Toro, and hasborne the title of city since 1877. The principal streets are called Lunaand Comercio. Its chief plaza is of notable size, its church is quiteregular in architecture, though of old construction, and the barracks ofthe infantry and civil guard merit mention. Finally, it may be said thatits citizens have held a distinguished record for bravery and patriotismever since their decisive victory over the English forces in 1743. 

[Illustration: Lower End of the Calle de Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez. ]

CHAPTER V

The Engagement at Hormigueros

_Topography of the battlefield_--_Macomb's cavalry fired into by Spanishskirmishers_--_Our advance-guard comes into contact with the foe_--_GeneralSchwan reaches the firing line_--_The main body arrives and joins in thefray_--_Subsequent manoeuvres of our column_--_The Spanish retreat_--_Acomputation of losses_. 

The ensuing account of our fight with the Alphonso XIII Regiment ofCazadores, on the 10th of August, is taken bodily from the official reportmade by General Schwan to Major-General Miles under date of August 21:--

At a distance of about seven miles from Mayaguez the Rio Rosario, comingfrom the east, parallels the road for nearly a mile, and empties into theRio Grande just south of Hormigueros. A sugar-mill stands just off the roadto the left; and a wagon-road branches off to the right, lined with hedgeand brush, and, crossing the Rosario on an iron bridge, leads to the hamletof Hormigueros, which is located on a side hill 1, 500 yards from the mainroad. The ground to the south of Hormigueros is covered with banana grovesand cane fields. At about 600 yards from where the Hormigueros road leavesthe main road the latter crosses the Rio Grande on a wooden bridge. Justbeyond this bridge the road to Cabo Rojo branches off to the south. Fromthis point, for nearly a mile, the main road passes through very low, flatground, cut up with deep furrows, which extend to the hills on the leftand the river on the right, and contain considerable water from recentrains.... To resume the narrative of the day's events, near a point on themain road where it is flanked by sugar-mills our cavalry was fired into, though without effect, by the enemy's scouts, who were concealed behind ahedge lining the Hormigueros road. They were easily dispersed. The infantryand advance-guard having passed this point, the cavalry took the latterroad, and, crossing the Rosario, turned westward, and advanced under coverof the railroad embankment until--taking every opportunity to damage theenemy by its fire action--it reached a position beyond the covered woodenbridge. 

[Illustration: Guenar Bridge, Mayaguez. ]

The brigade commander had left San German at the head of the main body. When he heard the firing in his front, he sent word to commanding officersto advance without further halt, and to keep their commands closed up. Similar orders were sent to the train. He was informed and approved ofthe route taken by the cavalry before reaching the bridge. He crossed thelatter about half-past three o'clock, being at that time about 500 yards inadvance of the main body. 

[Illustration: Upper End of the Calle Mendez-Vigo, Mayaguez. ]

A staff officer, who had been sent ahead to select camp, reported at thistime the ground west of the Cabo Rojo road as suitable for this purpose;but owing to the suspected proximity of the enemy, whose position had notyet been determined, it was decided to push ahead and beyond the ironbridge. This, despite the fact that the men had now marched 13 miles andwere very tired. Once in possession of the bridge and the high ground tothe north of it, the command would occupy a strong position, whichwould make it hard to check its advance on Mayaguez. Accordingly, theadvance-guard, under Captain Hoyt, moved forward, deploying its advanceparty as skirmishers and its supports into a line of squads. In thisformation it continued until it had approached the bridge within about 400yards. At this juncture the enemy opened fire, at first individual fire. The firing aimed at the advance-guard accelerated the march of the EleventhInfantry, which ... Reported to the brigade commander, whose staff hadalready commenced the demolition of the wire fences enclosing the road. About the time that the brigade commander caused the deployment oftwo companies to re-enforce the advance-guard, --Major Gilbraith incommand, --the enemy, from his position in the hills to the right front, fired volleys at the main body through the interval separating the infantryadvance-guard from the cavalry, wounding a number of men, also an officerand several horses of the brigade staff. Meanwhile the artillery battalion, under the authority of the brigade commander, had taken up a positionto the left of the road. As the powder used by the enemy was absolutelysmokeless, and his position being, moreover, for the most part screened bythe trees along the Rio Grande, the question of the exact direction to begiven Major Gilbraith's detachment, and to the lines of battle about to beformed from the main column, became a most perplexing one. Luckily, thisuncertainty did not last long, those of the enemy's bullets that struck theground near us solving the problem. Some slight confusion was caused bya premature and hurried deployment of the remaining companies, whichinterfered somewhat with the brigade commander's intention of forming twoadditional lines, one to support the fighting line and the other to actas a reserve, or as the changing conditions of the combat might renderexpedient. But under his supervision this defective formation was soonrectified, three companies being placed on the right and four companies onthe left of the road, the former, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, movingforward in support of Major Gilbraith, and the latter being held back for atime. Major Gilbraith and Colonel Burke's troops, being unable to cross thecreek, passed over the bridge that spans it by the left flank, the former'scompanies having previously occupied a sheltered place in a ditch parallelto and to the right of the main road. About this time the advance-guard, one of the companies of which (Penrose's) had previously held for a shorttime a knoll on the left of the road, moved forward and crossed the ironbridge, the advance sections of the companies being led by LieutenantsAlexander and Wells, respectively. After ... A time the entireadvance-guard, including the two Gatling guns, was concentrated on theright of the railroad. It dislodged the enemy, and with the cavalry troopto the right, --the troop had arrived about this time, after doing effectiveservice in threatening the enemy's flank, --and with the companies of MajorGilbraith pushed forward in the centre, took up a position on the northernline of hills. Here they were rejoined by the infantry and by two piecesof artillery under First Lieutenant Archibald Campbell, which the brigadecommander had ordered forward, and which by their fire added to thediscomfiture of the enemy. The two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis, with the advance, did good work, at first in a place near the creek wherethe gunners had a good view of the enemy, and later on at the variouspositions of the advance-guard. The two guns from the main body were alsooperated from the crest of the hill during the latter stage of the combat. 

[Illustration: The Town of Sabana Grande. ]

The affair ended about six o'clock; and the troops, including all theartillery, bivouacked on or near the position occupied by the enemy. Thewagon train afterward went into park between the railroad and the RioGrande, near enough to enable the men to get what was necessary for theircomfort during the night. Before darkness set in, Captain Macomb with histroop was directed to make an effort to capture a railway train in plainsight from the hill occupied by the command; but the train got under waybefore he could reach it. It also escaped some shots that were fired at itby the artillery. Although it had now become quite dark, the captain pickedup a few prisoners, including a wounded lieutenant. 

The difficulty in locating the enemy, and hence in giving proper directionto the attack formations, has already been alluded to. Another cause ofanxiety during the earlier stage of the fight were the reports that came tothe brigade commander from different parts of the field, through officers, that the enemy was getting around our right (or left) flank, andendeavoring to capture our train. There may have been some foundation forthese reports; but, if so, the flanking parties were probably small, anddeterred from pursuing their design by our steady advance. It may be addedthat the train was well guarded. 

[Illustration: Witch River, near Cabo Rojo. ]

Our loss embraced 1 enlisted man killed and 1 officer and 15 men wounded. All the wounded, the surgeons say, will recover. The enemy's loss cannot bedefinitely ascertained, but it is estimated at 15 killed alone. It probablydid not fall short of 50 in killed and wounded. 

The command continued its march at an early hour the following morning, theadvance-guard and the main body proceeding slowly and with great caution. This extra care was unnecessary. Those of the enemy's forces that were heldin reserve (some of them not far from the city) had fled precipitately assoon as they realized the extent of their defeat. 

In connection with the foregoing report I consider the subjoined documentas being of interest:--

 HEADQUARTERS UNITED STATES MILITARY EXPEDITION IN CAMP AT MAYAGUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 12, 1898. 

 GENERAL ORDERS No. 14. 

The brigadier-general commanding desires to convey to the officers andsoldiers of his command his thanks for their excellent conduct in theengagement they had on the 10th instant, near the town of Hormigueros, withthe Spanish forces in that vicinity. Concealed in a strong position, theypoured a murderous fire into our troops about to go into camp after afatiguing march. Had the disposition of the cavalry screen and of theadvance-guard--which latter included both infantry and artillery--been lessperfect, or had the command been deficient in discipline or other soldierlyqualities, such an attack might have proved disastrous. As it was, it waspromptly and gallantly repulsed, the repulse resulting in the enemy'sprecipitate evacuation of the city of Mayaguez, though it had been placedin a state of defence. 

[Illustration: American Camp at Mayaguez. ]

The major-general commanding the army has been pleased to commend thetroops for their gallant action on this occasion, --a fact which it affordsthe brigade commander genuine satisfaction to announce. 

By command of Brigadier-General Schwan. 

GROTE HUTCHESON, _Captain and Assistant Adjutant-General. _

CHAPTER VI

The Second Day Ends

_A personal résumé of the fight_--_Lack of melodramatic accompaniments_--_Alost chance of glory_--_Another neglected opportunity_--_A glimpse of theflag_--_Once more into camp_. 

At the risk of being considered tautological, I cannot refrain fromdevoting another chapter to the Hormigueros fight: first, because it was myinitial experience under fire; and, second, because there are more thingsin a soldier's memory than are set forth in the official report of hiscommanding general. 

[Illustration: Plaza Mercado, Mayaguez. ]

Our advance-guard, after leaving San German, marched rapidly along thelevel road leading to Mayaguez until about three o'clock in the afternoon. As the head of our column came into view, the country people living alongthe route gathered their most precious possessions into huge bundles, andhurried away across the fields, --a sure sign that we were approaching theenemy's position. At the hour mentioned we were suddenly set upon by ablinding shower, and a halt was made for about fifteen minutes, when, thefury of the downpour having somewhat abated, we once more began to moveahead. The cavalry had gone off on a side road for some purpose not knownto me, and the infantry was deployed in long lines to the right and left, while the artillery brought up the rear at an interval of about a hundredyards. At half-past three the skirmishers came to the Rio Rosario, but, being unable to ford it, were called back to the road and started acrossthe iron bridge, already described by General Schwan. It was at this momentthat the Spanish forces opened fire, concealed in a dense undergrowth about500 yards in our front. 

All jammed together as we were, it would seem that we might have beenabsolutely slaughtered by the leaden hail which was poured in upon us; andthe only explanation of our marvellous immunity probably lies in the factthat the enemy were surprisingly bad shots. Bullets whistled by our heads, or kicked up the dirt at our feet; but, though the pop of rifles made up acontinuous sound like the opening of a hundred thousand beer-bottles, not avestige of smoke rose in the clear air, not a patch of hostile uniform wasto be seen. 

For some reason our infantry did not at once reply to the Spanishfusillade; and during this brief interval two men and two horses werewounded in the platoon of artillery which stood idly just behind thefoot-soldiers, --too close, in fact, to be of any service, and in the wayof everybody. Then the two Gatling guns under Lieutenant Maginnis went offinto the field at our right, where they began to speak for themselves; andGatling guns in action have a mighty cheerful effect upon your nerves, if they happen to be on your side of the fracas. Next, an order from thegeneral sent the artillery galloping to the rear for about an eighth of amile, where, after a short detour to the left and a mad race across swampy, ditch-dug fields, it took up a temporary position on a convenient knoll. The main body of our command had meanwhile arrived, and got into the rowwithout ceremony, the firing now being heavy on both sides. My memoryserves me with no clear impression of the sequence of events after thisperiod. 

[Illustration: Mouth of the Mayaguez River. ]

During the first hour of our fighting all the powder used by us was assmokeless as that of the foe, and again and again the remark was passedthat this did not seem like the real business of war. In other respectsas well there were few of the accompaniments that we conjure up in ourstay-at-home imagination of battle scenes. There was a little galloping ofhooves, not long sustained; an occasional sharp cry of command or sharperoath; an intermittent rumble and jar from the infrequently moved artillery, not yet in action; and perhaps a groan or two from the wounded. But, evenwhen the field-rifles began to boom and shroud the landscape in driftingsmoke, the make-believe aspect of the affair did not in any degreediminish. There were no clouds of dust, no heaps of slain, no cheers, nodesperate charges, and not even a glimpse of the stars and stripes. Awayto our right we could see crowds of spectators on the elevated platformsurrounding the Sanctuary of Montserrate; and I remember thinking it waswell no admission fee had been charged for the spectacle upon which theygazed, else they would have murmured themselves defrauded. 

[Illustration: A Bit of Yauco. ]

My own most thrilling moments came about in this way: The platoon ofartillery to which I belonged had, as already related, decided that itsposition directly behind the hotly beset infantry was untenable, andconsequently fell back at speed, for some distance. Standing at the head ofthe first piece, with all my faculties engrossed by the scene before me, Idid not hear the order which should have sent me scampering to my seat onthe limber-chest, and so suddenly found myself alone, with my comradesmounted and away in full career. A glance about me disclosed the fact thatno other living thing was standing up within a radius of five hundredyards. I was a conspicuous mark for the eager slayers in the adjacentunderbrush; and I ought, of course, to rejoin my section as quickly aspossible. So I ran. It occurred to me that here was my chance to show whatI was made of. I would stop running, fill and light my pipe, and stalk ina leisurely manner down the white road, thus winning, perhaps, commentand applause from high places. I say all this occurred to me; but I alsohappened to recollect the story told of the survivor of Bull Run, whoreplied to a sneering criticism anent the Federal retreat from that famousfield by the sententious rejoinder that "all them as didn't run was thereyet, "--and I felt that I could fully appreciate the point. So I continuedto sprint as fast as I could, leaving the bubble Reputation for otherseekers, or for myself upon some other day and field. I was not afraid, andI was simply doing my duty; but I sometimes think that I may have neglectedthe flood-tide of opportunity, and I often wonder why, in melodramaticcrises, a man's mind is not always able to control his legs. 

I was not alone in the disregard of romantic possibilities. Later in theafternoon I saw a wounded private propped up against a fence, and bleedingcopiously from a bullet-hole that extended through both cheeks. His eyeswere closed, and he was making queer noises in his throat. As I happened tobe idle at the instant, I stepped to his side, and inquired compassionatelyif I could do anything for him. He opened his eyes with a jerk, spat fortha couple of teeth, and replied: "If you'll tell me how the beginning of'Sweet Marie' goes, I'll give you a piece of my face for a souvenir. I'vebeen trying to get that blame tune straight for the last fifteen minutes, but keep getting off my trolley. " And he laughed a ghastly laugh. I staredat him in amazement, and then, seeing that he was not delirious, strodemoodily away. What that man ought to have said was, "How goes the fight?"or "A drop of water, for God's sake"; but it is the painful truth that hedidn't. 

[Illustration: Wooden Dock at Mayaguez. In the Offing can be seen theGerman Man-of-war "Geier. "]

A striking feature of the engagement was the thoroughly matter-of-factmanner in which both officers and men went about their work. There was nostrutting, no posing, no shirking, but an evident intention on the partof all concerned, from General Schwan down, to do whatever had to be donewithout unnecessary fuss and feathers, promptly and well. I have seen farmore excitement displayed on an ordinary drill-ground at home, in thepiping times of peace. 

A sudden appearance of the flag just after the trumpets had sounded "ceasefiring" brought moisture to the eyes of many a toughened veteran; but eventhen, with victory still glowing in our grasp, there was not the ghost of acheer. We were simply more tired and hungry than usual, and until mattershad been straightened out for the night had no time for sentiment. And, when we finally went into camp on the very field where we had just ceasedfighting, we found our chief interest centred in hot coffee, crisphard-tack, and comfortable blankets. We had begun to realize that we mighthave lain stiffer and starker that night but for the whim of chance, andwere silent with the clacking tongue. 

 * * * * *

Hormigueros, the village which gave its name to this engagement, is a placeof about 3, 000 inhabitants, whose houses cluster about the base of themountain crowned by the Sanctuary of Montserrate. This church is visited byan endless stream of pilgrims, and many wild legends are told concerningit. 

[Illustration: "Eleventh of August" Street. ]

CHAPTER VII

The Occupation of Mayaguez

_We enter the city in triumph--An enthusiastic reception--A pretty girland the star-spangled banner--Other memorable incidents--Our rags andtatters--A description of Mayaguez--We pitch our tents in a swamp--TheFirst Kentucky Volunteers. _

As early as half-past eight on the following morning--August 11--our scoutsentered the city of Mayaguez, some three or four miles distant from ourcamp of the night before. About an hour later Captain Macomb marched histroop through the streets, accompanied by the brigade headquarters staff. Many prominent citizens greeted General Schwan at the Casa del Rey, anddeclared themselves subject to his orders. 

At eleven o'clock the entire brigade entered Mayaguez, with the generalriding at its head, colors flying, and band playing. 

We had been through this triumphal entry business several times before; butI, for one, never grew tired of it. It was for all the world like being inthe procession of a great circus. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, androof-tops were packed with wide-eyed humanity, of all ages and conditions, hues, sizes, and degrees of beauty. At every street corner, and in everysquare, great crowds of the lower classes rent the air with vivas andbravos, regulating their enthusiasm by the size of the guns that swung pastthem. It is easy enough for some grades of mankind to cheer with frenzy theappearance of a victor, no matter who he be; and a Chinese host wouldhave been received with just as much acclaim as we were, had they come asconquering heroes. The houses of the aristocrats sent us no demonstrationof feeling one way or the other, with a single startling and highlydramatic exception. We had turned from the Calle Mirasol into the CalleCandalaria, and the head of the column had almost reached the PlazaPrincipal. The band had just crashed into "The Stars and Stripes Forever. "Suddenly the crowd on an upper balcony of a stately house to the left wasseen to sway violently; and a moment later a beautiful young girl, tearsstreaming from her eyes, leant far out over the rail, and waved a crudelymade Old Glory over the ragged ranks below. For a breath we were struckdumb by this apparition. Then every hat came off; and for the first timethat day we split the heavens with a cheer, --lustily and long. The outbreakwas infectious, and from every side the clamor swelled and burst till itseemed as if the universe had vaulted into mad tumult at the touch of agirl's hand. Her name was Catalina Palmer, and she has since married anAmerican lieutenant. But that, as Kipling would say, is another story. 

[Illustration: The Officers of the Alphonso XIII Regiment of Cazadores, taken a few days before the Fight with the American Troops at Hormigueros. ]

At one corner a richly dressed old woman threw handful after handfulof small silver coins among us. In several places we trod upon greatquantities of flowers thrown in our path by peasant girls. The flags ofEngland, Germany, France, and Italy, were everywhere to be seen. Thequaintly uniformed corps of firemen turned out in splendor to do us honor, and we saluted with grave dignity the immense statue of Columbus standingin the centre of the town. By those who entered Mayaguez that day none ofthese things will ever be forgotten. 

From a spectacular point of view I am inclined to believe that Kiralfywould have regarded us with scorn and derision, though Jack Falstaffmight have been better pleased. We were gaunt, bronzed, and dishevelled, unshaven, dirty, and tattered. Toes protruded from shoes, our hats werefull of holes, our trousers hardly deserved the name, and we limpeddisgracefully. It was the popular impression in Puerto Rico that everyAmerican soldier was a full-fledged millionaire, but even they expressedsome disappointment at our evident disregard for the external superfluitiesof elegance. But, when you stop to consider it, we did not go to theAntilles to make love to the pretty girls. We were quite sufficientlyclothed and fed to march through tropical underbrush, take several cities, and put our more gaudily equipped enemies to ignominious flight. And thatis what we were there for. 

[Illustration: The Military Hospital, Mayaguez. ]

In the early part of the afternoon we went into camp about a mile and ahalf outside the city lines, and the main body remained here until August13. The camping-ground was a bad one, lying as it did in a bowl formed by acircle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approachingabsolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, wegrudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsivewilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germby way of interlude. 

On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having onboard the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward werequartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on wecame to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missedthem sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of theregular brigade had not been paid for three months. 

 * * * * *

Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico, --aplace of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms. Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughingsea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historicalassociations have been accumulating ever since. 

It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25, 000, the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that atSan Juan, --102 miles distant, --and is an open roadstead formed by twoprojecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, andexports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in largequantities, --principally, with the exception of coffee, to the UnitedStates. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are threemanufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate isexcellent, the temperature never exceeding 90° F. 

[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao. ]

The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla, and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. Ithas a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, threebridges, a handsome market, --the best on the island, constructed entirelyof iron and stone, at a cost of 70, 000 pesos, --a slaughter-house, atheatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation, and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was foundedin 1760, and given the title of city in 1877. 

A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected bytwo pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively. The sands ofthis river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be hadfrom the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are noless than 37 streets and 4 squares, --the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, andTeatro, --all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance, --the Plazadel Teatro, --a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigois one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. Itstretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifullyclean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of richmerchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, betweenthe theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigothat there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico, --a little maid ofsixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms. 

The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers andmagnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is agood stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey, built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. Theinfantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modernconstruction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it isvery capacious. 

And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war. 

[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez. ]

CHAPTER VIII

The Engagement at Las Marias

_Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy_--_Finaldetermination upon pursuit_--_Lieutenant-Colonel Burke setsforth_--_Discovery of Spanish troops near Las Marias_--_A one-sidedencounter_--_Unwelcome notification of truce_--_The rest of the brigadecomes up_--_Feeding the prisoners_--_Our disappointment_. 

HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS), MAYACUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 22, 1898. 

GENERAL J. C. GILMORE, Headquarters of the Army, Ponce, P. R. 

_Sir_, --... Detachments from the cavalry troop went out (from Mayaguez) inthe afternoon of the 11th on both roads leading to Lares; but the left handor westerly of these roads was followed only a short distance, information, thought to be reliable, having been received to the effect that the bulk ofthe enemy's force had taken the more easterly road, on which the town ofMaricao is situated. This part of the force was reported as making fairheadway, having only a pack-train as transportation. Reports also came tobrigade headquarters that Spanish troops in large numbers, coming fromdifferent places, --including Aguadilla and Pepino, --were concentrating toattack my command. While not impressed with the accuracy of these reports, I had the outposts strengthened, and placed a field officer in charge ofthem. A party from the outposts, sent to reconnoitre the Las Marias road, brought word on the afternoon of the 12th that the rear-guard of theSpanish was still within five miles of Mayaguez, and proceeding slowly. 

[Illustration: The Rosario River, near Hormigueros. ]

I immediately determined to pursue and, if possible, to capture or destroythis force, and at first resolved to move out with the entire command. On reflection, however, I realized that there were objections to such acourse. The city and surrounding country were in an unsettled and excitedstate, the latter swarming with guerillas, deserters, and bushwackers. Ihad no accurate knowledge of the spirit, strength, and location of theenemy's forces, supposed to be within easy reach of Mayaguez. Then, too, the rest of my command, already worn down by the exhausting marches andoperations beginning on the 9th, had been seriously broken in upon byheavy outpost duty and drenching rains, which latter had made their camp averitable mud-hole. Furthermore, the road to Lares, except for the firsteight miles out, was said to be all but impassable for wheeled vehicles;and this reminded me that the major-general commanding had intimated thatI might have to go to Lares by way of Aguadilla. I therefore concludedto despatch a reconnoissance in force, under Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, Eleventh Infantry, to harass the enemy and to retard its progress in everyway. The detachment was made up of six companies of infantry and oneplatoon each of cavalry and artillery, and started at ten o'clock A. M. OnAugust 12. It was given ample transportation for its three days' rationsand the infantrymen's packs. It was therefore as mobile as it could bemade without a pack-train. Hindered by excessive heat, followed by heavyshowers, it marched only to a point where the two roads, above mentioned, are joined by a cross-road, --or about nine miles. I did not hear fromColonel Burke during the night, as I had hoped to; and the remainder of mycommand had its wagons packed, and was preparing to pull out on the morningof the 13th, when a courier came to me from him with a report of thedifficulties that had retarded his progress, and of the presence of aSpanish force near Las Marias, variously estimated at from 1, 200 to 2, 500. This force, the colonel said, had taken up a defensive position; and he wasmoving toward it... 

Respectfully submitted, THEODORE SCHWAN, _Brigadier-General Commanding_. 

[Illustration: A Street in San German. ]

MAYAGUEZ, PUERTO RICO, Aug. 16. 

_My dear Gilmore_, --Availing myself of the first breathing-spell I have hadfor some time, I wish in this informal way and in advance of my regularreport to say a few words to the general and yourself regarding our lastSaturday's work (August 13). 

As soon as the result of the Hormigueros fight became known inMayaguez--about nine o'clock on the 10th--Colonel Soto, the commander, "pulled up stakes. " That the Spanish troops left in the greatest hurry thecondition of their barracks abundantly evidenced. Our advance-guard foundthe city entirely clear of the Spanish, and I ordered my cavalry to keepin touch with them. The cavalry took the right-hand road of the two roadsleading to Lares, over which some of the Spanish troops had actually gone;and in the evening the troop commander reported that they were betweenseven and ten miles off, and still retreating. My command was thoroughlytired. No one without witnessing it can conceive the distress an infantrysoldier suffers while marching in this hot climate, in a deep column, weighted down as he is even without his pack; and some rest seemed actuallyimperative. But the next morning I found that the main body of theSpanish had taken the westerly (or left hand) road to Lares, and early onFriday--there being many other things to engage the attention of myself andtroops--I started Burke out in pursuit, with about 700 men, all told. Iovertook him Saturday morning about three and one-half miles north ofLas Marias. His infantry had pulled his guns over roads that were almostperpendicular. His troops were exchanging shots at long range across a deepvalley with the retreating Spaniards, most of whom had forded (losing a lotof men, who were drowned) a deep and rapid river known in that countryas the Rio Prieto. Our fire had already demoralized the thoroughlydisheartened and half-famished Spanish soldiers; and their rear-guard, atleast, was also disorganized and hiding in the hills. 

[Illustration: Tobacco Plantation (cutting leaves), Mayaguez. ]

A company of infantry I had sent out brought in, about ten o'clock in theevening, forty odd prisoners, a number of pack-animals, etc. Our men werethoroughly worn out by the day's work. Early the next morning I had fourcompanies of infantry, the cavalry, and two guns ready to resume thepursuit. And there cannot be the shadow of a doubt that, had I had fivemore hours, I should have taken Lares; for that the flying Spaniards hadprepared to abandon it at once I have the most reliable information. Butat this particular juncture the notice that hostilities would be suspendedcame to me. No troops ever "suspended" with worse grace. We had given theSpanish no peace, and had taken all the starch out of them. The colonel andlieutenant-colonel had surrendered. Their troops were utterly demoralizedand disintegrated. It seemed a pity to deprive us of the full fruits of avictory for which we had labored so hard; but of course we had to bow tothe inevitable. Please let the general read this. 

Faithfully your friend, THEO. SCHWAN. 

The part of our command left under Colonel DeRussy set out on the morningof the 13th to join the rest of the column, whose movements you havealready followed in the preceding documents. The last detachment found itno less difficult to make headway than had the first; and on the morning ofthe 14th the entire brigade was so broken up and strung out that its headand tail were a good nine miles apart. So much trouble had been experiencedin getting the artillery up the incredibly steep mountain-sides that noone had been able to give assistance or even thought to the hopelesslyembarrassed wagon-train, and consequently we were practically without foodfor over twenty-four hours. When at last something to eat did come ploddingalong, we were obliged to put up with half-rations in order that our littlecollection of recently acquired prisoners might be fed. At a conservativeestimate, those prisoners must have been the hungriest lot of men that everlaid down their arms. There were less than sixty of them, and they drewrations for about 1, 200. However, they were fed; and we had the consolationof realizing that victory, like some other things of less familiaracquaintance, is its own reward. By noon on the 14th, everything was oncemore in order; and I have not yet ceased to wonder how those in authoritymanaged to erase so quickly the chaos of the night before. 

[Illustration: The Plaza Principal in Mayaguez, looking toward the Church. ]

The engagement at Las Marias, while not particularly momentous in itself, was note-worthy as being the last between our forces and those of Spainduring the recent war. I do not believe that the knowledge of thisfact--even had we possessed it at the time--would have materially consoledus for the disappointment we felt in being obliged to stop shooting justwhen we had learned to do it so beautifully; but, still, it is something tohave been in at the finish. 

CHAPTER IX

The Territory Won

_General Schwan returns to Mayaguez_--_Business and pleasure_--_A customwe abolished_--_Extent of the district captured by our brigade_--_Aguadllla_--_Facilities for transportation_--_Labor andthe laborer_--_The cost of living_--_Rents and real estate_--_Skilledworkmen_--_A word about investments_. 

On August 16, in obedience to orders from Army Headquarters, General Schwanleft the bulk of his troops in the positions they had respectively occupiedat the time of the receipt of the truce, and, accompanied by the artillery, returned to Mayaguez. The people of this city had not yet recovered fromthe ferment into which they had been thrown by our advent, and went aboutin a state of tremulous titillation, expecting I know not what. At anyrate, it did not seem to arrive; and after a day or two had passed withoutany sign of fell intent upon our part the merchants allowed themselves tobe coaxed back into their places of business. The cafés were once morethronged. Semi-weekly concerts were given in the Plaza Principal by theband of the Eleventh Infantry and the Banda del Bomberos, in alternation. Balls, dinner-parties, and flirtations resumed their interrupted course, gathering new zest and brilliancy from the foreign element within thegates. All the Americans began to study Spanish, and all the Puerto Ricansto study English, without particularly gratifying results on either side. Cocking-mains, local games of chance, and more hectic immoralities were setforth for the delectation of the private soldiers; while I have personalknowledge of at least one quasi-clandestine bullfight, that may be bestdescribed as a furtive fizzle. 

Strict measures were taken by the brigade commander to preventanything resembling disorderly conduct among his men, and though theselaurel-crowned heroes, under the influence of a wonderfully cheap rum, wereseized at odd moments with an evident desire to start the war all overagain, there was not much difficulty encountered in maintaining a degree ofdecorum that was highly satisfactory. 

The sanitation of the municipality was rigorously inquired into, andregulated; but it is only justice to the residents of Mayaguez to say thatlittle reform was necessary in this regard, as the current statistics ofmortality and disease amply proved. Of the few changes made, however, onemay be specifically mentioned. 

[Illustration: A Ruined Church along our Line of March. ]

[Illustration: A Puerto Rican Laundry. ]

It was the custom whenever a peasant died to carry the corpse to thecemetery in a coffin hired at transient rates, and then, having dumped thedeceased into a shallow grave, to return what is facetiously known as the"wooden overcoat" to its original owner, for further service. This was badenough, considering the danger of infection thus engendered; but much worseremains behind. It seems that the plot of ground reserved for dead pauperswas very circumscribed. So it had become necessary to bury four or fivebodies in the same hole, the last one in being perhaps no more than sixinches from the light of day. And, as if this state of affairs were notalready sufficiently horrible, we found that the congestion was sometimesstill further relieved by a wholesale emptying of graves, the bones thusremoved being thrown into some adjacent corner above ground, where they layundisturbed in the hot sunshine and smelt to heaven. This ghastly practicewas summarily stopped. 

 * * * * *

If you will take a map of Puerto Rico and cut off the western section bydrawing a line from Guanica through Lares to Camuy, you will see at oncethe extent of the territory brought under American control by GeneralSchwan. The principal towns of this section, in addition to those alreadydescribed, are Aguadilla, Maricao, Añasco, Cabo Rojo, Lares, and LasMarias; but none of these places are important enough to call for detailednotice, with the possible exception of the first-named. This city, Aguadilla, while it has a population of only 5, 500, is notable as being themost picturesque town on the entire island. It is the capital and port ofthe surrounding district; and, though the climate is hot, it is remarkablyhealthful. The site is a stretch of shore facing Mona Channel, betweenCape Borinquen and the Rio Culebrinas. Directly behind rises the steepgreen-crested Jaicoa Mountain, its slopes covered with orange, lemon, andpalm trees in bewildering profusion; while half-way to the summit theregushes forth a fairylike, crystal stream, which flows directly through thetown before emptying into the bay. An antique church and a little fort of11 guns, called Conception, add to the scenic beauty of the picture, whenviewed from the sea. Tourists will probably spoil this lovely town beforethe end of another decade, but at present it is a quivering page ofromance. 

[Illustration: On the Road to Lares. ]

[Illustration: The Best Outfit in our Wagon Train. ]

Of the facilities for transportation in this part of Puerto Rico, it maybe said that they are either extremely good or extremely bad. The formercondition prevails generally in the valleys, and the latter among the hillstoward the interior. There are several interrupted lines of railroad, andburros are used to a considerable extent by the inland planters; but farthe greater part of communication and carriage is accomplished by way ofthe sea. 

Labor here, as elsewhere in the tropics, is to be had very cheaply, but isuncertain, sluggish, and dishonest. A man for plantation work can be hiredfor almost nothing a day, but he will not earn even that unless he isdriven at the point of a machete. The local peon desires to toil no longerthan is necessary to obtain the bare wherewithal to fill his belly. Thenhe dreams away the remainder of the day, smoking the eternal cigarette;perhaps rousing himself sufficiently to pick the strings of a guitar in thecool of the evening--and this, at least, the beggar does well. He is notat all ambitious to improve his condition, and he will never be any betterthan he is to-day. Probably he will be much worse. He will cut throats andburn haciendas all the gay year round if he is not allowed to gang his aingait. We are going to reform him, of course; but--the day will come whenwe shall be ashamed to look Spain in the face. In Cuba this man's brotherswere known as "patriots"; which meant that they were soldiers when therewas any work to be done, and laborers when fighting was on hand. In myopinion, they are vicious beasts. 

The cost of living naturally hinges upon the price of labor; and so onemay eat and drink in Puerto Rico for a trifle more than a song. Fruit andvegetables are cheap and plentiful, though flour is so costly as to bealmost a luxury; while the meats are neither low in price nor good inquality. Excellent fowls are to be had for very little money. Milk is dearand dangerous; butter is only known as it appears in cans from Denmark; andall the other dairy products are of the meanest description. Still, one canlive with pleasure and comfort upon the many peculiarly native articles ofsubsistence in common use. 

[Illustration: "Promenade of the Fleas" in Yauco. ]

[Illustration: When only One Man gets a Letter. ]

Rents are low, but satisfactory houses are seldom to be had when they arewanted. 

There is always room in the hotels of the larger towns; and, until one canbuild for himself, a hotel offers a very pleasant substitute--at a slightlyincreased expense. Land, for building purposes, or in an unimproved state, can be leased for a sum that is almost nominal, except in a few highlyfavored localities. Purchasers of land are more than likely to findthemselves immediately embroiled in a lawsuit over the title. If no flawexists in your title, then it does exist in one that was drawn up a hundredyears ago; and in either case the result is the same--you lose. 

Skilled workmen in any branch of industry will not find a good field fortheir abilities in Puerto Rico, at least not for a few years to come. Ifthere were any demand for their services, --which there isn't, --they wouldnot be able to command anything approaching the standard of wages usual inthe United States. 

To the investor, dairy farms, ice-plants, transportation schemes, andbar-rooms offer tempting possibilities, --I reserve agriculture for separateconsideration, --but it cannot be too forcibly emphasized that plenty ofmoney, good-health, patience, and a smattering of the Spanish language areabsolutely indispensable requisites to the foreigner trying to do businesson this island. 

[Illustration: The "Weary Travellers' Spring, " near Añasco. ]

[Illustration: A Crude Sugar Mill near Las Marias. ]

CHAPTER X

The End of the Campaign

_Arrival of the mail-steamer_--_The soldier-boy and his letters_--_Thegreater part of the brigade is quartered in Mayaguez_--_Agriculturein Puerto Rico_--_Material result of our campaign_--_A farewellorder_--_General Schwan departs for the United States_. 

On the 19th of August a steamer came into the harbor, bringing us a mail, the first we had received since the beginning of July. If the people whowrote those letters could have seen the happiness they wrought upon theirdistant boys, I am sure they would have been surprised and touched. Againand again we read the simple news of home, --the cat was dead, or littlesister had the mumps, or father had built a new fence around the backpasture, --and wars and kings and presidents faded into forgetfulness beforethe heart to heart talks that had come from over-seas. 

I don't suppose there is anybody that knows the value of a letter betterthan a soldier does. A few blotted lines from his mother or sister orsweetheart are meat and drink and fine raiment for his soul. He feels braveagain and good again and--homesick again. He makes life a burden for thewhole camp until he has borrowed or stolen a scrap of paper and a stubbypencil wherewith to make reply. He sits down in some convenient spot, withemotion fairly oozing from every pore, and for a solid hour he wrestleswith his tools and vocabulary. The result probably does not altogetherplease him. He feels that he has said too much about his lack of socks, the toughness of his fare, the flatness of his purse. All the love andtenderness he meant to set down have somehow refused to leave him, even indescription. But he knows he will be massacred if he goes howling for morepaper; and so he sends off what he has written, counting the weary daysuntil his answer comes. The man who first invented writing was, withoutdoubt, the greatest man that ever lived. 

[Illustration: A very Popular Spot. ]

[Illustration: Two Knights and a Pawn. ]

On August 25 it was decided to bring all but four companies of the brigadeinto quarters at Mayaguez, chiefly because a great deal of sickness hadbegun to spring up in the outlying camps. This was accordingly done. 

 * * * * *

Scientific agriculture and prosperity have long been regarded as almostsynonymous terms in Puerto Rico. 

The provincial government established and maintained an experimentalstation at Rio Piedras, for the purpose of promoting a technical knowledgeof the native soil-products; and the results of this step have provedinvaluable. The recent director of the station, Señor Fernando Lopez Tuero, wrote, while in office, several monographs on tropical agriculture; which Ihave been at some pains to translate in my search for absolutely reliableinformation relating to that subject. Señor Tuero is considered, to be ahigh and conservative authority by those of his compatriots who are bestable to judge; and I feel confident that the following estimates arenearly, if not entirely, correct:--

The chief agricultural products of the island are cotton, rice, cacao, corn, cocoanuts, pepper, bananas, tobacco, vegetable dyes, coffee, sugar, pineapples, and vanilla. Of all these I shall only pause to deal here withthe last four. 

Coffee and sugar are regarded by the Puerto Ricans as their most valuablecrops. The first takes six years to come into full bearing, and during thistime will cost an expense of about 162 pesos an acre, with a return in thelast year of 86 pesos an acre, --a net deficit for the full period of 76pesos. Afterward the expense should be about 66 pesos an acre, and thereturn 90 pesos. Sugar requires a heavy investment at the start. Aplantation of 250 acres, together with the necessary buildings andmachinery, will call for about 52, 500 pesos. The total cost of a crop, frombeginning to end, should be 152 pesos an acre, and the return about 170. 

A pineapple plantation, for the investor of limited means, ought to proveprofitable and encouraging. The first year of cultivation will produce acrop, at a final cost of 40 pesos an acre, including the land-rent. Thereturn is put down at 200 pesos, leaving a gorgeous net profit of 160pesos. It would seem perhaps that under such circumstances it is odd thatthere is not a more general raising of this fruit by the local planters;but the reason for an apparent neglect of a golden opportunity lies inthe difficulties heretofore encountered in finding swift and adequatetransportation from field to market. With this handicap removed there islittle doubt that pineapple-growing will become a tempting industry. 

The vanilla bean, however, is king-pin of the list in the claim of profitto be derived from its culture. It is said that the yearly cost of raisingthe crop will be 94 pesos an acre, chiefly for manure and irrigation. Andthe annual return for every acre is figured at 652 pesos, --a net profitthat is fairly dazzling. 

While all these details--which I have digressed so many times to give--donot properly form a part of the story of our campaign, yet it is byno means unusual for one who has put his hand into a grab-bag to lookcarefully and well at the prize withdrawn. And that is what I have beendoing. 

The material result of General Schwan's campaign may be briefly summarizedthus: He marched his command ninety-two miles in eight days; fought twosuccessful engagements; expelled the Spanish forces from the entire westernpart of Puerto Rico; captured and occupied nine towns; and took 362prisoners, including Colonel Villeneuve, a lieutenant-colonel, and fourother regular officers. In addition he seized 450 stands of arms, 145, 000rounds of ammunition, and ten thousand dollars in silver coin. His loss was1 killed and 16 wounded against a total of 20 killed and 50 wounded on theside of the enemy. 

On August 27 the general issued a farewell order to his brigade, from whichI briefly quote:--

"On relinquishing his command to return to the United States, thebrigadier-general commanding desires to congratulate, and to return hisheartfelt thanks to, the officers and soldiers of the regular brigade fortheir achievements and excellent conduct during the last eighteen days.... Our troops have continued to hold their advanced positions and outpostsuntil now, when, peace being assured, all but a small fraction have beenbrought to comparatively comfortable barracks near this city. The hardshipsendured on the march and at these outposts have been great.... But thesehardships have been cheerfully borne by officers and men. Not a murmur hasbeen heard, despite the fact that nearly one-fourth of the strength of mostorganizations is on sick-report, their ailments being directly caused bythe exposure incident to this campaign. 

"Less than three weeks have been occupied by the campaign, yet a bond ofsympathy between officers and soldiers has been established that years ofpeace could not have engendered. "

On the following morning, accompanied by Lieutenant G. T. Summerlin, hisaide-de-camp, General Schwan left Mayaguez for Ponce, where he boarded thetransport "Chester, " and returned to the United States. 

The campaign of the Independent Regular Brigade was thus brought to anofficial end. 

A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE LIFE OF BRIGADIER-GENERAL SCHWAN. 

Theodore Schwan was born in Germany, July 9, 1841. He received his earliereducation in the preparatory schools of his native land, but came to theUnited States when he was about sixteen years old. He enlisted as aprivate in the Tenth Infantry on June 12, 1857; and served successfullyas corporal, sergeant, first sergeant, and quartermaster-sergeant untilOctober 31, 1863, when he received his commission. He was made a firstlieutenant, Tenth Infantry, April 9, 1864; regimental quartermaster inDecember, 1864; a captain, March 14, 1866; a major, Eleventh Infantry, and assistant adjutant-general, July 6, 1886; a lieutenant-colonel andassistant adjutant-general, February 19, 1897; a colonel and assistantadjutant-general, May 18, 1898. Two weeks before his last promotion inthe regular army he was appointed brigadier-general of volunteers, and inaccordance with the Act of Congress, approved March 2, 1899, he will retainthat rank until July 1, 1901. He was brevetted several times during theWar of the Rebellion, and his whole military career, covering a period offorty-two years, is absolutely devoid of blemish. 

APPENDIX

I

The following officers received distinguished mention in General Schwan'sreports, for service rendered under fire during the campaign in westernPuerto Rico:--

 Lieutenant-Colonel Burke, Eleventh Infantry. [A] Major Gilbreath, Eleventh Infantry. Captain P. M. B. Travis, Eleventh Infantry. Captain R. W. Hoyt, Eleventh Infantry. Captain A. L. Myer, Eleventh Infantry. Captain Penrose, Eleventh Infantry. Captain Macomb, Fifth Cavalry. Acting Assistant Surgeon Savage. Lieutenant Odon Gurvoits, Eleventh Infantry. Lieutenant T. F. Maginnis, Eleventh Infantry. Lieutenant Alexander, Eleventh Infantry. Lieutenant Wells, Eleventh Infantry. Lieutenant W. S. Valentine, Fifth Cavalry. Lieutenant Rogers F. Gardner, Third Artillery. 

[Footnote A: Died of apoplexy on August 22, 1898, while in camp near LasMarias. ]

In addition to those named above, special and valuable efficiency wasdisplayed by Major E. A. Root, engineer; Major H. H. Benham, ordnance; MajorEgan, brigade-surgeon; Captain Buchanan, Collector-of-the-Port at Mayaguez;Captain Davison, brigade-quartermaster; Captain Hutcheson, assistantadjutant-general; and Captain Elkins, [A] Lieutenant Byron, and LieutenantSummerlin, aides-de-camp. 

[Footnote A: Wounded at battle of Hormigueros. ]

II

In connection with the present writer's expressed opinion regarding therelative practical value of regulars and volunteers in modern warfare, thefollowing excerpt from the Chicago _Record_ of November 3, 1898, is worthreading. 

Captain Avid Wester, the Swedish officer who accompanied the American armyin Cuba, in order to study the war, has just returned to Sweden. Duringhis stay in Gothenburg he was interviewed, and he seems now to have a moresympathetic view of the Americans--the volunteers excepted--than formerreports indicated. Captain Wester greatly praised the treatment he hadreceived from all the American officers, and the bravery of the Americansin the regular army. "Of the 18, 000 men under the command of GeneralShafter, " he says, "only 4, 000 were volunteers or militiamen; the restconsisted of regulars, which had had an average service of six years on theborders of the Indian territory. They were very good and well-disciplinedsoldiers, who went into battle with complete disregard of death. Themilitia regiments, however, could not be got within range of the Spanishbullets, and all the stories about the heroism of volunteers are untrue. The only volunteers who distinguished themselves were the 'rough riders, 'who, in spite of their name, fought on foot, but these men were not amilitia regiment. The troop consisted of cowboys and adventurers, who caredneither for life nor death, but rushed blindly into battle. Brave fellowswithal. " After praising the bravery of the Spaniards and the accuracy oftheir fire, Captain Wester expresses the belief that with modern rifles inuse it is of the greatest importance to have well-trained soldiers, whoin the heat of battle retain their coolness and listen to their officers'directions and commands, --in a word, soldiers who retain good firingdiscipline. This, he says, cannot be expected of men with short time oftraining, on whom the din of battle often has so paralyzing an effect thatthe soldier can neither hear nor see. 

III

The question concerning the quality of the beef served as a ration to ourtroops during the recent war--in Cuba and Puerto Rico, and aboard thetransports--has already been pretty thoroughly answered, one way or theother. Yet, though the topic is worn nearly threadbare and admittedly hasnothing in particular to do with General Schwan's campaign, I venture tomake, in this place, a personal contribution to the discussion in the formof an extract from a letter, written by me from Mayaguez on September 15, 1898. 

Our rations [on the transport "Comanche"] consisted of hard tack, coffee, canned baked-beans, canned tomatoes, and canned "roast beef. " Before wearrived at Key West the baked-beans had all been eaten and the water in thetanks had gone rotten--we carried no condenser--so that we were reduced tothe rather monotonous diet of tomatoes for breakfast, tomatoes and cannedroast beef for dinner, and tomatoes again for supper; with a full allowanceof coffee and hard tack at all three meals. 

Anybody will be able to understand that we were pretty hungry at the end ofthe second day. We were thirsty too--I paid as much as fifty cents for aglass of ice-water from the cabin--but I will skip the mass of details. Wehad seen the piles of neat cans, labelled "roast beef, " stacked up on thedock at Port Tampa, and we were impatient for the first mess-call thatmade us acquainted with the contents of those cans. I regret that I cannotadequately describe to you the appearance of the stuff. I will simply saythat it looked filthy, was covered with a sort of slime, and emitted anauseous odor. It was very hard to even gaze at it and remain unmoved, but we did more than that--we tried to eat it. I managed to swallow threemouthfuls and immediately became wretchedly sick. The example seemed to bepopular. 

On the succeeding day we were each given an unopened can of the meat, whichwas supposed to last us for twenty-four hours. Most of the men threw theirportions overboard at once; a few packed away the "corpse"--as we alreadycalled it--for purposes of trade with the unsophisticated Cubans; and Ikept my can as a souvenir. I did not, however, keep it long; for, chancingto drop it upon the deck, the contents exploded with a distinct report, startling me not a little and covering my person with the débris. At thetime I thought this experience was going to be altogether unique, but Idiscovered afterward that the same thing happened in a great many otherinstances. 

Having abandoned the beef, we were forced to subsist on hard tack andtomatoes for the rest of the voyage, and hailed with joy our anchorage atDaiquiri. But we were too previous. During our ten days' stay in Cuba wefound the "corpse" still waiting for us in the mess, and we carried theghastly burden along when we finally steamed away for Puerto Rico. 

We landed at Guanica on the 25th of July, which meant that we had beenhalf-starved for twenty-two days. We had forgotten the "Maine" and wouldhave greeted Weyler himself with a glad sweet smile, had he come bearing inhis hands food fit for a human being. Once more disembarked, we lost sightof the canned roast beef for good--save at extremely rare intervals whileon the march. We found no difficulty in eating the beef obtained fromPuerto Rican steers, although it was tough and bloodless; and we receivedsalt pork often enough to furnish variety. 

After the cessation of hostilities we began to get American beef instead ofthe native article, and, while it was by no means so impossible a food asits canned cousin, it certainly could not be called delicious. It smelledbadly before it was cooked, was rigid and stringy when served, and had arank taste, like--well like nothing else on earth. Our sick-list doubled atthis time. 

IV

A list of the killed and wounded on the American side, at the battle nearHormigueros, Puerto Rico, on the 10th of August, 1898. 

_Killed_. 

Fred Fenneberg, private in Company "D, " Eleventh Infantry. 

_Wounded_. 

Lieutenant J. C. Byron, Eighth United States Cavalry, R. D. C. 

John Bruning, corporal in Light Battery "D, " Fifth Artillery. 

George Curtis, private in Light Battery "D, " Fifth Artillery. 

Samuel G. Frye, private in Light Battery "D, " Fifth Artillery. 

Willard H. Wheeler, sergeant in Company "A, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Joseph P. Ryan, corporal in Company "A, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Arthur Sparks, private in Company "C, " Eleventh Infantry. 

John L. Johnson, corporal in Company "D, " Eleventh Infantry. 

J. A. Sanders, private in Company "D, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Harry E. Arrick, private in Company "E, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Henry Gerrick, private in Company "E, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Paul F. Mitzkie, private in Company "E, " Eleventh Infantry. 

William Rossiter, private in Company "G, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Lemuel P. Cobb, private in Company "I, " Eleventh Infantry. 

D. J. Graves, private in Company "M, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Amos Wilkie, corporal in Company "M, " Eleventh Infantry. 

_Injured_. 

Frank Muller, private in Company "E, " Eleventh Infantry. 

Augustus H. Ryan, private in Company "F, " Eleventh Infantry.