FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD. LONDONPRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE. [Illustration: Map] FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD ON TWO TRAVELLERS FROM THE OLD IN THE AUTUMN OF 1858. LONDONLONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. 1859 TO I. L. T. * * * * * MY DEAR LITTLE GIRL, I dedicate this little book to you; the letters it contains were meantto let you know how your father and I and your brother William fared ina rapid journey, during the autumn of last year, through part of Canadaand the United States, and are here presented to you in another formmore likely to ensure their preservation. You are not yet old enough fully to understand them, but the time will, I trust, come when it will give you pleasure to read them. I can safelysay they were written without any intention of going beyond yourself andour own family circle; but some friends have persuaded me to publishthem, for which I ought, I suppose, to ask your pardon, as the lettershave become your property. The reason which has made your father and me consent to this is, that wescarcely think that travellers in general have done justice to our goodbrothers in America. We do not mean to say that _we_ have accomplishedthis, or that others have not fairly described what they have seen; butdifferent impressions of a country are made on persons who see it underdifferent aspects, and who travel under different circumstances. When William, for example, was separated from us he found the treatmenthe received very unlike what it was while he travelled in our company;and as many bachelors pass through the country and record theirexperience, it is not surprising if some of them describe things verydifferently to what we do. The way to arrive at truth in this, as in all other cases, is to hearwhat every one has to say, and to compare one account with another; andif these letters to you help others to understand better the nature andcharacter of the country and the people of America, my object in makingthem public will be attained. With some few alterations, the letters are left just as you receivedthem, for I have been anxious not to alter in any way what I have toldyou of my First Impressions. When, therefore, I have had reason tochange my opinions, I have thought it better to subjoin a foot-note; andin this way, too, I have sometimes added a few things which I forgot atthe time to mention in the letters themselves. There is only one thing more to tell you, which is, that though I wroteand signed all the letters myself many parts are of your father'sdictating. I leave you and others to judge which these are. Without hishelp I never could have sent you such full accounts of the engine of theNewport steamer, or of our journey across the Alleghanies and other suchsubjects; and you will, I know, like the letters all the better for hishaving taken a part in them. Believe me ever, Your affectionate Mother. June, 1859. CONTENTS. LETTER I. Voyage. --Arrival at New York. --Burning of Quarantine Buildings. --CableRejoicings. --Description of the Town Page 1 LETTER II. West Point. --Steamer to Newport. --Newport. --Bishop Berkeley. --Bathing. --Arrival at Boston 9 LETTER III. Journey to Boston. --Boston. --Prison. --Hospital. --Springfield. --Albany. --Trenton Falls. --Journey to Niagara. --Niagara 28 LETTER IV. Niagara. --Maid of the Mist. --Arrival at Toronto. --Toronto. --ThousandIslands. --Rapids of the St. Lawrence. --Montreal. --Victoria Bridge 58 LETTER V. Journey from Montreal to Quebec. --Quebec. --Falls of Montmorency. --Island Pond. --White Mountains. --Portland. --Return to Boston. --HarvardUniversity. --Newhaven. --Yale University. --Return to New York 76 LETTER VI. Destruction of the Crystal Palace. --Philadelphia. --Cemetery. --GirardCollege. --Baltimore. --American Liturgy. --Return to Philadelphia. --Penitentiary. --Return to New York 97 LETTER VII. William's Departure. --Greenwood Cemetery. --Journey to Washington. --Arrangements for our Journey to the Far West. --Topsy 108 LETTER VIII. Washington. --Baptist Class-Meeting. --Public Buildings. --Venus byDaylight. --Baltimore and Ohio Railway. --Wheeling. --Arrivalat Columbus 119 LETTER IX. Journey from Wheeling to Columbus. --Fire in the Mountains. --Mr. Tyson's Stories. --Columbus. --Penitentiary. --Capitol--GovernorChase. --Charitable Institutions. --Arrival at Cincinnati 168 LETTER X. Cincinnati. --Mr. Longworth. --German Population. --"Over theRhine. "--Environs of Cincinnati. --Gardens. --Fruits. --CommonSchools. --Journey to St. Louis 202 LETTER XI. St. Louis. --Jefferson City. --Return to St. Louis. --Alton. --Springfield. --Fires on the Prairies. --Chicago--Granaries. --PackingHouses. --Lake Michigan. --Arrival at Indianapolis 224 LETTER XII. Indianapolis. --Louisville. --Louisville and Portland Canal. --Portland. --The Pacific Steamer. --Journey to Lexington. --Ashland. --Slave Pens at Lexington. --Return to Cincinnati. --PennsylvaniaCentral Railway. --Return to New York 239 LETTER XIII. New York. --Astor Library. --Cooper Institute. --Bible House. --Dr. Rae. --Dr. Tyng. --Tarrytown. --Albany. --Sleighing. --Final Return toBoston. --Halifax. --Voyage Home. --Conclusion 279 * * * * * FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD. * * * * * LETTER I. VOYAGE. --ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. --BURNING OF QUARANTINE BUILDINGS. --CABLE REJOICINGS. --DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN. New York, September 3, 1858. We landed here yesterday afternoon, at about six o'clock, after a veryprosperous voyage; and, as the Southampton mail goes to-morrow, I mustbegin this letter to you to-night. I had fully intended writing to youdaily during the voyage, but I was quite laid up for the first week withviolent sea sickness, living upon water-gruel and chicken-broth. Ibelieve I was the greatest sufferer in this respect on board; but thedoctor was most attentive, and a change in the weather came to myrelief on Sunday, --not that we had any rough weather, but there wasrather more motion than suited me at first. Papa and William were well throughout the voyage, eating and drinkingand walking on deck all day. Our companions were chiefly Americans, andmany of them were very agreeable and intelligent. Amongst the number Imay mention the poet Bryant, who was returning home with his wife anddaughter after a long visit to Europe; but they, too, have suffered muchfrom sea sickness, and, as this is a great bar to all intercourse, I hadnot as much with them as I could have wished. The north coast of Ireland delighted us much on our first Sunday. Wepassed green hills and high cliffs on our left, while we could see thedistant outline of the Mull of Cantire, in Scotland, on our right. Wehad no service on that Sunday, but on the one following we had twoservices, which were read by the doctor; and we had two good sermonsfrom two dissenting ministers. The second was preached by a Wesleyanfrom Nova Scotia, who was familiar with my father's name there. He was agood and superior man, and we had some interesting conversations withhim. We saw no icebergs, which disappointed me much; but we passed a fewwhales last Tuesday, spouting up their graceful fountains in thedistance. One came very near the ship, and we had a distinct view of itsenormous body. We had a good deal of fog when off Newfoundland, whichobliged us to use the fog-whistle frequently; and a most dismal soundinginstrument it is. The fog prevented our having any communication withCape Race, from whence a boat would otherwise have come off to receivethe latest news from England, and our arrival would have beentelegraphed to New York. The coast of Long Island came in sight yesterday, and our excitement wasnaturally great as we approached the American shore. Before rounding Sandy Hook, which forms the entrance on one side to thebay of New York, we ran along the eastern coast of Long Island, whichpresents nothing very remarkable in appearance, although the prettylittle bright town of Rockaway, with its white houses studded along thebeach, and glittering in the sun, gave a pleasing impression of thecountry. This was greatly increased when, running up the bay, we came towhat are called the Narrows, and had Staten Island on our left and LongIsland on the right. The former, something like the Isle of Wight inappearance, is a thickly-wooded hill covered with pretty countryvillas, and the Americans were unceasing in their demands for admirationof the scenery. [1] Before entering the Narrows, indeed shortly after passing Sandy Hook, alittle boat with a yellow flag came from the quarantine station to seeif we were free from yellow fever and other disorders. There were manyships from the West Indies performing quarantine, but we were happilyexempted, being all well on board. It was getting dark when we reachedthe wharf; and, after taking leave of our passenger friends, we landed, and proceeded to an adjoining custom-house, where, through the influenceof one of our fellow-passengers, our boxes were not opened, but it was ascene of great bustle and confusion. After much delay we were at lengthhoisted into a wonderful old coach, apparently of the date of QueenAnne. We made a struggle with the driver not to take in more than ourown party. Up, however, others mounted, and on we drove into aferry-boat, which steamed us, carriage and all, across the harbour, forwe had landed from the ship on the New Jersey side. After reaching NewYork by means of this ferry-boat, we still had to drive along aconsiderable part of Broadway, and finally reached this comfortablehotel--the Brevoort House--at about eight o'clock. The master of the hotel shook hands with papa on entering, and againthis morning treated him with the same republican familiarity. The hotelis very quiet, and not a specimen of the large kind, which we intendseeing later. We had fortunately secured rooms beforehand, as the townis very full, owing to the rejoicings at the successful laying of thecable, and many of our fellow-passengers were obliged to get lodgingswhere they could. We found that Lord Napier was in the hotel, so we sent our letters tohim, and had a long visit from him this morning. Two topics seem at present to occupy the minds of everybody here; one, the successful laying of the cable, the other the burning of thequarantine buildings on Staten Island. We were quite unconscious, whenpassing the spot yesterday, that the whole of these buildings had beendestroyed on the preceding night by an incendiary mob; for such we muststyle the miscreants, although they comprised a large portion, it issaid, of the influential inhabitants of the place. The alleged reasonwas that the Quarantine establishment was a nuisance, and the residentshad for months been boasting of their intention to destroy the obnoxiousbuildings. The miserable inmates would have perished in the flames, hadnot some, more charitable than the rest, dragged them from their beds. The Yellow Fever Hospital is destroyed, and the houses of the physiciansand health officers are burnt to the ground. At the very same moment NewYork itself was the scene of the splendid festivities in honour of thesuccessful laying of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable, to which we havealluded. We came in for the _finale_ of these yesterday, when the streets werestill much decorated. In Trinity Church we saw these decorationsundisturbed: the floral ornaments in front of the altar were moreremarkable, however, for their profusion than for their good taste. On atemporary screen, consisting of three pointed gothic arches, stood across of considerable dimensions, the screen and cross being togetherabout fifty feet high. The columns supporting the arches, the archesthemselves, and all the lines of construction, were heavily coveredwith fir, box, holly, and other evergreens, so as to completely hide alltrace of the wooden frame. The columns and arches of the church werealso decorated with wreaths and garlands of flowers. On a panel on the temporary structure already mentioned was theinscription, "GLORY BE TO GOD ON HIGH, AND ON EARTH PEACE, GOOD WILLTOWARDS MEN, " all done in letters of flowers of different colours; thecross itself being covered with white roses and lilies. In the streetswere all sorts of devices, a very conspicuous one being the cable slungbetween two rocks, and Queen Victoria and the President standing, looking very much astonished at each other from either side. Theabsurdity of all this was, that the cable had really by this time cometo grief: at least, on the morning after our landing, an unsuccessfulattempt was made to transmit the news of our arrival to our friends inEngland. It was rather absurd to see the credit the Americans took tothemselves for the success, such as it was, of the undertaking. Besides seeing all this, we have to-day driven and walked about the towna good deal, and admire it much. It is very Parisian in the appearanceof its high houses, covered with large bright letterings; and the shopsare very large and much gayer looking on the outside than ours; but, onexamination, we were disappointed with their contents. The streets seembadly paved, and are consequently noisy, and there are few finebuildings or sights of any kind; but the dwelling-houses are notunfrequently built of white marble, and are all handsome andsubstantial. In our drive to-day we were much struck with the generalappearance of the streets and avenues, as the streets which run parallelto Broadway are called. The weather has been sultry, but with a gooddeal of wind; and the ladies must think it hot, as most of them appearat breakfast in high dresses with short sleeves, and walk about in thisattire with a slight black lace mantle over their shoulders, their nakedelbows showing through. We go to-morrow to West Point, on the HudsonRiver, to spend Sunday, and return here on Monday, on which day Williamleaves us to make a tour in the White Mountains, and he is to join us atBoston on Monday week. You must consider this as the first chapter of my Journal, which I hopenow to continue regularly. FOOTNOTE: [1] The admiration thus claimed for the scenery was sometimes soextravagant as to make us look for a continuance of it, a reproach ofthis kind being so often made against the Americans; but we are bound toadd this note, to say that we very seldom met afterwards with anythingof the kind, and the expressions used on this occasion were hardly, after all, more than the real beauty of the scenery warranted. LETTER II. WEST POINT. --STEAMER TO NEWPORT. --NEWPORT. --BISHOP BERKELEY. --BATHING. --ARRIVAL AT BOSTON. Brevoort House, 5th Avenue, New York, 8th Sept. , 1858. My letter to you of the 3rd instant gave you an account of our voyage, and of our first impressions of this city. In the afternoon of the 4th, William went by steamboat to West Point, on the river Hudson, and wewent by railway. This was our first experience of an American Railway, and it certainly bore no comparison in comfort either to our own, or tothose we have been so familiar with on the Continent. The carriages areabout forty feet long, without any distinction of first and secondclasses: the benches, with low backs, carrying each two people, arearranged along the two sides, with a passage down the middle. Theconsequence is, that one may be brought into close contact with people, who, at home, would be in a third-class carriage. There are two otherserious drawbacks in a long journey; the one being that there is norest for the head, and therefore no possible way of sleepingcomfortably; the other, that owing to the long range of windows oneither side, the unhappy traveller may be exposed to a thorough draught, without any way of escape, unless by closing the window at his side, ifhe is fortunate enough to have a seat which places it within his reach. Another serious objection is the noise, which is so great as to makeconversation most laborious. They are painstaking in their care of theluggage, for besides pasting on labels, each article has a numberedcheck attached to it, a duplicate of which is given to the owner; timeis saved in giving up the tickets, which is done without stoppage, therebeing a free passage from one end of the train to the other. Thisenables not only ticket-takers, but sellers of newspapers and railwayguides, to pass up and down the carriages; iced water is also offeredgratis. The road to Garrison, where we had to cross the river, runs along theleft bank of the Hudson, a distance of fifty miles, close to the water'sedge nearly the whole way, and we were much struck by the magnificenceof the scenery. The river, generally from two to three miles in breadth, winds between ranges of rocks and hills, mostly covered with wood, andsometimes rising to a height of 800 feet. Owing to the windings and theislands, the river frequently takes the appearance of a lake; while theclearness of the atmosphere, and the colouring of the sunset, added tothe beauty of the scene. We travelled at the rate of twenty miles anhour, and arrived in darkness at Garrison. Here we crossed the river ina ferry-boat to West Point, and found William, who had come at the samespeed in the steamer. The hotel being full, we accepted the offer ofrooms made us by Mr. Osborn, an American friend of papa's, at a littlecottage close to the hotel. Mr. And Mrs. Osborn and their two childrenhad passed some weeks there, and said they frequently thus receivedover-flowings from the hotel, and but for their hospitality on thisoccasion, we should have been houseless for the night. This cottagebelonged to the landlord of the hotel, and there being no cookingaccommodation in it, we all took our meals in the public dining-room. The hotel itself is a very spacious building, with a wide verandah ateach end. We found an endless variety of cakes spread for tea, which didnot exactly suit our appetites, but we made the best of it, and thenwent into the public drawing-room, where we found all the guests of thehotel assembled, and the room brilliantly lighted. Here balls, or asthey call them "hops, " take place three or four times a week. The sceneis thoroughly foreign, more German than French. The ladies' hoops areextravagant in circumference; the colouring of their dresses is violentand heavy; and there is scarcely a man to be seen without moustachios, abeard, a straw hat, and a cigar. West Point is the Sandhurst of theUnited States, and is also the nearest summer rendezvous of thefashionables of New York. It is beautifully situated on the heightsabove the river, and the Military Academy, about ten minutes' drive fromthe hotel, commands a most splendid view of the Hudson, and the hills oneither side. We went to the chapel on Sunday the 5th, where we joined, for the firsttime, in the service in America. It differs but little from our own, andwas followed by a not very striking sermon. The Holy Communion wasafterwards administered, and it was a comfort to us to join in it onthis our first Sunday in America. The cadets filled the centre of thechapel, and are a very good-looking set of youths, wearing a prettyuniform, the jacket being pale grey with large silver buttons. We dinedat four o'clock at the _table d'hôte_, in a room capable of holdingabout four hundred. We sat next to the landlord, who carved at one ofthe long tables. The dinner was remarkably well cooked in the Frenchstyle, but most deficient in quantity, and we rose from table nearly ashungry as we sat down. Some of the ladies appeared at dinner in eveningdresses, with short sleeves (made _very_ short) and low bodies, a tullepelerine being stretched tight over their bare necks. In some cases thehair was dressed with large ornamental pins and artificial flowers, asfor an evening party. We met them out walking later in the evening, withlight shawls or visites on their shoulders, no bonnets, and large fansin their hands. This toilette was fully accounted for by the heat, thethermometer being at 80° in the shade. Many of the younger women werevery pretty, and pleasing in their manners. We left West Point early on Monday morning, the 6th, taking thesteamboat back to New York, leaving William to pursue his journey to theWhite Mountains and Montreal alone, and we are to meet him again atBoston next week. The steamboat was well worth seeing, being a wonderfulfloating house or palace, three stories high, almost consisting of twoor three large saloons, much gilt and decorated, and hung with printsand filled with passengers. The machinery rises in the centre of thevessel, as high nearly as the funnel. We went at the rate of twentymiles an hour. We again enjoyed the beauties of the river, and couldthis time see both sides, which we were unable to do on the railway, bywhich means too we saw many pretty towns and villas which we had missedon Saturday. We were back at the hotel by twelve o'clock, and are tomake our next move to-morrow afternoon to Newport, a sea-bathing place, a little way north of this. We are doing this at the strongrecommendation of Lord Napier, who says, at this time of the yearNewport is worth seeing, as giving a better idea of an Americanwatering-place than Saratoga, where the season is now drawing to aclose. We have now become more familiar with this place, and I think arebeginning to feel the total want of interest of any sort beyond ageneral admiration of the handsome wide streets and well-built houses. The Brevoort House is in the fifth avenue, which, in point of fashion, answers to Belgrave Square with us, and consists of a long line ofhouses of large dimensions. A friend, who accompanied us in our driveyesterday evening, pointed out many of the best of them as belonging tobutton-makers, makers of sarsaparilla, and rich parvenus, who have risenfrom the shop counter. He took us to his own house in this line, whichwas moderate in size, and prettily fitted up. He is a collector ofpictures, and has one very fine oil painting of a splendid range ofmountainous scenery, in the Andes. It is by Church, a rising youngAmerican, whose view of the Falls of Niagara was exhibited this year inLondon. We have made frequent use of the omnibus here; the fares arehalf the price of the London ones, and the carriages are very clean andsuperior in every way to ours. Great trust is shown in the honesty ofthe passengers, there being no one to receive payment at the door, but anotice within directs the money to be paid to the driver, which is donethrough a hole in the roof, and he presents his fingers to receive it, without apparently knowing how many passengers have entered. Wefrequently meet woolly-headed negroes in our walks, and they seem toform a large proportion of the servants, both male and female, and ofporters and the like. We are disappointed in the fruit. The peaches arecheap, and in great quantities, but they are very inferior to ours inflavour, and the melons are also tasteless. The water-melons are cut inlong slices and sold in the streets, and the people eat them as theywalk along. The great luxury of the place is ice, which travels aboutthe streets in carts, the blocks being three or four feet thick, and aglass of iced water is the first thing placed on the table at each meal. The cookery at this hotel is French, and first rate. We have had a fewdishes that are new to us. The corn-bread and whaffles are cakes madeprincipally of Indian-corn; and the Okra-vegetable, which was to us new, is cut into slices to flavour soup. Lima beans are very good; we havealso had yams, and yesterday tasted the Cincinnati champagne, which wethought very poor stuff. _Fillmore House, Newport, Rhode Island, September 13th. _--We left NewYork on Thursday afternoon, and embarked in a Brobdingnagian steamboat, which it would not be very easy to describe. The cabin is on the upperdeck, so that at either end you can walk out on to the stern or bow ofthe vessel; it is about eleven feet high, and most splendidly fitted upand lighted at night with four ormolu lustres, each having eight largeglobe lights. We paced the length of the cabin and made it 115 paces, sothat walking nine times up and down made a nice walk of a mile. Theengine of the steamboat in America rises far above the deck in thecentre of the vessel, so this formed an obstruction to our seeing thewhole length, unless on each side of the engine, where a broad and clearpassage allowed a full view from end to end; but instead of taking awayfrom the fine effect, the engine-room added greatly thereto, for it wasdivided from the cabin, on one side, by a huge sheet of plate glass, through which the most minute workings of the engines could be seen. There was in front a large clock, and dials of every description, toshow the atmospheric pressure, the number of revolutions of the wheel, &c. This latter dial was a most beautiful piece of mechanism. Its faceshowed six digits, so that the number of revolutions could be shown upto 999, 999. The series of course began with 000, 001, and at the end ofthe first turn the _nothings_ remained, and the 1 changed first into 2, then into 3, &c. , till at the end of the tenth revolution the two lastdigits changed together, and it stood at 000, 010, and at the 1, 012threvolution it stood at 001, 012. To go back to the saloon itself; the walls and ceiling were very muchcarved, gilt, and ornamented with engravings which, though not equal toour Albert Durers, or Raphael Morghens at home, were respectable modernperformances, and gave a drawing-room look to the place. The carpet wasgorgeous in colour, and very pretty in design, and the arm-chairs, ofwhich 120 were fixtures ranged round the wall, besides quantitiesdispersed about the room, were uniform in make, and very comfortable. They were covered with French woven tapestry, very similar to thespecimens we bought at Pau. There were no sofas, which was doubtlesswise, as they might have been turned to sleeping purposes. Littlepassages having windows at the end, ran out of the saloon, each openinginto little state cabins on either side, containing two berths each, aslarge as those on board the Africa, and much more airy; but thewonderful part was below stairs. Under the after-part of the saloon wasthe general sleeping cabin for the ladies who could not afford to payfor state cabins, of which, however, there were nearly a hundred. Ourmaid slept in this ladies' cabin, and her berth was No. 306, but howmany more berths there may have been here we cannot tell. This must haveoccupied about a quarter of the space underneath the upper saloon. Theremaining three quarters of the space constituted the gentlemen'ssleeping cabin, and this was a marvellous sight. The berths are rangedin four tiers, forming the sides of the cabin, which was at leastfourteen feet high; and as these partook of the curve of the vessel, theline of berths did the same, so as not to be quite one over the other. There were muslin curtains in front of the berths, forming, when drawn, a wall of light floating drapery along each side of the cabin, and thiscurved appearance of the wall was very pretty; but the prettiest effectwas when the supper tables were laid out and the room brilliantlylighted up. Two long tables stretched the whole length, on which wereplaced alternately bouquets and trash of the sweet-cake kind, though thepeaches, water-melons, and ices were very good, and as we had luckilydined at New York, _we_ were satisfied. The waiters were all niggers, grinning from ear to ear, white jacketed, active, and clever, aboutforty strong. The stewardesses, also of African origin, wore hoops ofextravagant dimensions, and open bodies in front, displaying dark brownnecks many of them lighted up by a necklace or diamond cross, rivallingVenus herself if she were black. They were really fearful objects tocontemplate, for there was a look of display about them which read one asevere lesson on female vanity, so frightful did they appear, and yetrigged out like modern beauties. It was the most lovely afternoonconceivable, and we stayed on deck, sometimes on the bow and sometimeson the stern of the vessel, till long after dark. We preferred the bow, as there was no awning there, and the air was more fresh andinvigorating. The passage through Long Island Sound was like a river studded on bothsides with villas and green lawns, something like the Thames betweenKingston and Hampton, but much wider, and with higher background, andaltogether on a larger scale. When, owing to the darkness, we lost sightof these, they were replaced by lighthouses constantly recurring. Thishuge Leviathan, considerably longer than the Africa, proceeded at therate of about eighteen miles an hour, going half-speed only, on accountof the darkness of the night. The full speed was twenty-four miles anhour, and remember this was not a high-pressure engine. After proceedingthrough this narrow channel for about 120 miles, we again entered theAtlantic, but speedily reached the narrow inlet which extends up to thisplace. You may wonder at our having been able to make such minuteobservations upon the saloon, &c. ; but having tried our state cabin, andnot relishing it, we paced up and down the saloon, and occupied by turnsmost of its 120 chairs, till three o'clock in the morning brought us tothe end of our voyage. There was no real objection to the cabin, beyondthe feeling that it was not worth while to undress and lie down for soshort a time; besides which, papa was in one of his fidgetty states, which he could only relieve by exercise. But how now to describe Newport? Papa is looking out of the window, andfacing it is an avenue of trees running between two lawns of grass asgreen as any to be seen in England, though certainly the grass iscoarser than at home. In these lawns stand houses of every shape andform, and we, being _au troisième_ have a distant view of the sea, whichlooks like the Mediterranean studded with ships. As this place (theBrighton of New York) stands on a small island, this sea view isdiscernible from all sides of the house. We walked yesterday a long wayround the cliffs, which are covered with houses far superior to theaverage villas in England, the buildings being of a brilliant white andsometimes stone colour, and of elaborate architecture, with colonnades, verandahs, balconies, bay windows of every shape and variety, and allbuilt of wood. The churches are some of them very beautiful, both Gothicand Grecian. A Gothic one to which we went yesterday afternoon, washigh, high, high in its decorations, but not in the least in thedoctrine we heard, which was thoroughly sound on "God so loved theworld, " &c. The fittings up were very simple, and the exterior of thechurch remarkable for the grace and simplicity of its outline; forbeing, like the houses, built entirely of wood, elaborate carving cannotbe indulged in. The church which we went to in the morning offered a great contrast tothis, the interior being fitted up with high old-fashioned pews, likemany a village church at home; but besides this, a further interestattached to Trinity Church, as being the one in which Dean Berkeley usedto preach, and from its remaining unaltered in its internal appearancefrom what it was in his days. The pulpit is still the same, and there isstill in the church the organ which he presented to it, at least theoriginal case of English oak is there, and part of the works are thesame, though some pipes have lately been added. Independently of TrinityChurch, the town of Newport has many associations connected with BishopBerkeley's memory, the place where he lived, and where he wrote his"Minute Philosopher" being still pointed out, as well as the spot on thebeach where he used to sit and meditate. The most striking buildings, however, are the hotels, one of which, the "Ocean House, " is the largestbuilding of the kind we have ever seen. It has very much the appearanceof the huge convents one sees in Italy, and, standing on the top of thecliffs, it has a most remarkable effect. There are some very goodstreets, but the greatest part of the town consists of detached housesstanding in gardens. There are very few stone buildings of any kind. Thehotel we are in is not the largest, but is considered the best, and inthe height of the season the place must be very gay. The next, perhaps the greatest, feature here is the bathing. There arethree beaches formed round a succession of points, the whole forming alovely drive on dry hard sand; and such a sun as we gazed upon yesterdaysetting over these distant sands passes description. On the first ofthese beaches are ranged more than a hundred bathing machines at about ahundred yards above high-water mark, looking like sentry boxes on alarge scale, with fine dry sand between them and the sea. We went downon Saturday to see the bathing, which is here quite a public affair; andhaving fixed our eyes on a machine about a dozen yards off, we saw twodamsels enter it, while a young gentleman, who accompanied them wentinto an adjoining one. In a few minutes he came out attired in hisbathing dress and knocked at the ladies' door. As the damsels wereapparently not ready, he went into the water to wait their coming, andin due time they sallied forth dressed in thick red baize trowsers and ashort dress of the same colour and material, drawn in at the waist by agirdle. The gentleman's toilet was coloured trowsers and a tight flanneljacket without sleeves. He wore no hat, but the ladies had on very_piquante_ straw hats trimmed with velvet, very like the Nice ones, topreserve them from a _coup de soleil_. They joined each other in thewater, where they amused themselves together for a long time; agentleman friend's presence on these occasions is essential, from theAtlantic surf being sometimes very heavy; but the young gentleman inquestion did not enact the part of Mr. Jacob, of Cromer, not beingprofessional. The number of bathers is generally very great, though nowthe season being nearly over there are not many, but there were stillenough to let us judge of the fun that is said to go on. There are few guests in this house now. A "hop" was attempted on Fridayevening in the entrance hall, but the unhappy musicians exertedthemselves in playing the Lancers' Quadrilles and all sorts of uglyjerking polkas without success, although an attempt at one quadrille, wewere told, was made after we had retired for the night. The _tabled'hôte_ toilettes here now are much quieter than they were at Westpoint, there being but two short sleevers yesterday at our two o'clock dinner. There is a large and handsome public drawing-room, where we can rock inrocking chairs (even the bed-rooms have them), or pass an hour in theevening. We are waited on at dinner by twelve _darkies_, as the niggersare called, marshalled by a head waiter as tall as papa and as black ashis hat. A black thumb on your plate, as he hands it to you, is _not_pleasant. The housemaids are also niggeresses, and usually go about incoloured cotton sun bonnets. I now leave off, as we start for Boston inan hour. _Boston, 14th September, 1858. _--We reached this yesterday, and werelooking for William all the evening, but were disappointed at hisnon-appearance. He arrived here, however, at three this morning by thesteamer, and is now recounting his adventures; he enjoyed himself verymuch, and looks all the better for his trip. I ought to tell you of a few Yankee expressions, but I believe the most_racy_ of them are used by the young men whom we do not come across: "Iguess" is as common as "I think" in England. In directing you on anyroad or street, they tell you always to go "right away. " If you do notfeel very well, and think you are headachy, and that perhaps the weatheris the cause, you are told you are "under the weather this morning. " Anexcellent expression we think; so truly describing the state papa isoften in when in dear old England. Then when you ask for information onany subject, the answer is frequently, "I can't say, sir, for I am not_posted up_ on that subject. " I asked an American gentleman, who waswalking with us last night, not to walk quite so fast, and he answered, "Oh, I understand; you do not like that Yankee hitch. " "Yankee" is noterm of offence among themselves. Our friend certainly made use of thelast expression as a quotation, but said it was a common one. They will"fix you a little ginger in your tea, if you wish it;" and they all, ladies and gentlemen, say, Sir, and Ma'am, at every sentence, and allthrough the conversation, giving a most common style to all they say;although papa declares it is Grandisonian, and that they have retainedgood manners, from which we have fallen off. I reserve my description of the journey here, and of this town, for mynext letter. LETTER III. JOURNEY TO BOSTON. --BOSTON. --PRISON. --HOSPITAL. --SPRINGFIELD. --ALBANY. --TRENTON FALLS. --JOURNEY TO NIAGARA. --NIAGARA. Delavan House, Albany, Sept. 15th, 1858. I find it at present impossible to keep up my letter to you from day today, but I am so afraid of arrears accumulating upon me that I shallbegin this to-night, though it is late and we are to start earlyto-morrow. My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Boston, but Ihave not yet described to you our delightful journey there. We left Newport with our friends, Mr. And Miss Morgan, at two o'clock onthe 13th, and embarked in a small steamer, which took us up theNarragansett Bay to the interesting manufacturing town of Providence. Wewere about two hours on the steamer, and kept pace with the railway carswhich were running on the shores parallel to us, and also going toProvidence. The shores were very pretty, green and sloping, and dottedwith bright and clean white wooden houses and churches. We passed thepretty-looking town of Bristol on our right. The day was lovely, brilliant and cool, with a delightfully bracing wind caused by our ownspeed through the water. The boat brought us to Providence in time only to walk quickly to therailway, but we had an opportunity of getting a glance at the place. Itis one of the oldest towns in America, dating as far back as 1635; butits original importance is much gone off, Boston, which is in somerespects more conveniently situated, having carried off much of itstrade. It is most beautifully situated on the Narragansett Bay, theupper end of which is quite encircled by the town, the city risingbeyond it on a rather abrupt hill. Among the manufactories which stillexist here, those for jewellery are very numerous. We were now to try the railway for the second time in America, andhaving been told that the noise of the Hudson River line was caused bythe reverberation of the rocks, and was peculiar to that railway, wehoped for better things on this, our second journey. We found, however, to our disappointment, that there was scarcely any improvement as toquiet; and as papa _would_ eat a dinner instead of a luncheon atNewport, this and the noise together soon worried his poor head into aheadache. We were confirmed in our dislike of the cars and railways, which have many serious faults. The one window over which papa and I(sitting together) were able to exercise entire control, opened like allothers by pushing it _up_. A consequence of this arrangement is that theshoulder next to it is in danger of many a rheumatic twinge, being soexposed to cold; whereas, if the window opened the reverse way, aircould be let in without the shoulder being thus exposed. I forgot in mydescription of the cars, to tell you that the seats are all reversible, enabling four persons to sit in pairs facing each other, and also iftheir opposite neighbours are amiably disposed, enabling each pair torest their feet on the opposite seat, and if the opposite seat is empty, the repose across from seat to seat can be still more complete; but itis an odious contrivance, and neither repose nor rest can be thought ofin these most uncomfortable carriages. Our seats faced the front door, and were close to it, which was very desirable as the air is clearer atthat end, and not so loaded with the impurities of so large a mass ofall classes as at the other end. We made various purchases as we wentalong. First came the ticket man, then cheap periodicals, then applesand pears, common bon-bons, and corn pop, of which I am trying to keepa specimen to send you. It is a kind of corn which is roasted on thefire, and in so doing, makes a _popping_ noise, whence its name. It ispleasant to nibble. Then came iced water, highly necessary after the drycorn pop, and finally about twenty good and well-chosen books. Papabought the Life of Stephenson. But if we had room to grumble about discomforts within, we could onlyadmire unceasingly without the very lovely road along which we wererapidly passing. The country consisted of undulating hills and slopes, prettily wooded, while bright white wooden houses and churches rapidlysucceeded each other; the tall, sharp, white church spire contrastingbeautifully with the dark back-ground of trees. It was delightful to seeall the houses and cottages looking trim and neat, and in perfect orderand repair. There was no such thing as dilapidation or poverty apparent, and the necessary repairs being so easily made, and the paint-brushreadily available, all looked in the most perfect order. We could dolittle else than admire the scenery, and arrived at Boston at about sixo'clock; the last few minutes of the journey being over a long woodenbridge or viaduct, which connects the mainland with the peninsula onwhich Boston is built. We found rooms ready for us at Tremont House. Itis an enormous hotel, but the passages are close, and the rooms small. They were otherwise, however, very luxurious, for I had a smalldressing-room out of my bedroom in which was a warm bath and a plentifulsupply of hot and cold water laid on, besides other conveniences. The next morning we found Lord and Lady Radstock in the breakfast-room;and papa accompanied Lord Radstock to see an hospital and prison. The prison was the jail in which prisoners are detained before theirtrial, as well as when the duration of their imprisonment is not to bevery long. Nothing, by papa's description, can exceed the excellency ofthe arrangements as far as the airiness and cleanliness of the cells, and even the comforts of the prisoners, are concerned, but the system isone of strict solitary confinement. Papa and Lord R. Were surprised tofind that some unhappy persons, who were kept there merely in thecharacter of witnesses, were subject to the same rigorous treatment. Lord R. Remarked, that he would take good care not to see any offencecommitted while in this country, but the jailor replied, "Oh, it wouldbe quite enough if any one declared you saw it. " The hospital appears to be a model of what such an establishment oughtto be. The wards are large, and, like the prison cells, very airy andclean, but with a great contrast in the character of the inmates forwhose benefit they are provided. The great space which can usually beallotted, in a country like this, to institutions of this description, may perhaps give this hospital an advantage over one situated in thecentre of a large city like London; though the semi-insular position ofBoston must render space there comparatively valuable; but even thiscannot take away from the merit of the people in showing such attentionto the comforts of the needy sick. But what papa was most pleased with, was the provision made, on the plan which has been often tried inLondon, but never with the success it deserves, of an hospital, or homefor the better classes of the sick. In the Boston hospital, patients arereceived who pay various sums up to ten dollars a week, for which theycan have a comfortable room to themselves, and the best medical advicewhich the town affords. Papa and Lord R. Were shown over thisinstitution by Dr. Shaw, who was particularly attentive and obliging inanswering all their questions. We have since been exploring the town, and are quite delighted with it. It has none of the stiff regularity of New York, and the dwellinghouses have an air of respectable quiet comfort which is much wanted inthat city of wealth and display. The "stores" too are far moreattractive than in New York, though their way of asking you to describeexactly what you want before they show you anything, except what isdisplayed, reminded me much of France. The city is altogether veryforeign-looking in its appearance, and we are glad to think we are toreturn and make a better acquaintance with it later in the month. Thereis a delightful "common, " as they call it, or park, which is well kept, and much prized by the inhabitants. Some beautiful elm trees in it arethe largest we have seen in this country. Around one side are the bestdwelling houses, some of which are really magnificent. The hotel, whichis a very large one, has some beautiful public sitting rooms, greatlylarger than those at the Brevoort House at New York, which is much morequiet in this respect; but these large rooms form an agreeable adjunctto an hotel, as they are in general well filled by the guests in thehouse, and yet sufficiently large to let each party have their ownlittle coterie. The character of the inhabitants for honesty seems to be called inquestion by the hotel-keepers, for all over these hotels there arealarming notices to beware of hotel thieves (probably Englishpickpockets); and in Boston we were not only told to lock our doors, butnot to leave the key on the outside _at any time_, for fear it should bestolen. _Trenton Falls, Sept. 16th. _--We left Boston on Tuesday afternoon, andgot as far as Springfield, a town beautifully situated on the riverConnecticut, and celebrated for a government institution of greatimportance, where they make and store up fire-arms. It is just 100 milesfrom Boston, and the railway runs through a beautifully wooded countrythe whole way, which made the journey appear a very short one. Thevillages we passed had the same character as those between Providenceand Boston, and were, like them, built altogether of wood, generallypainted white, but occasionally varied by stone-colour, and sometimes bya warm red or maroon colour picked out with white. Springfield lay on our way to Albany, and as we had heard much of thebeauty of the place, we were not deterred from sleeping there by beingtold that a great annual horse-fair was to be held there, but to securerooms we telegraphed for them the day before. At the telegraph stationthey took upon themselves to say, there was no room at the establishedhotels, but that a new one on the "European plan" had been opened theday before, where we could be taken in; at this we greatly rejoiced, butto our dismay on arriving, we found its existence ignored by every one, and we were almost in despair when we bethought ourselves to go to thetelegraph office, where we were directed to a small new _cabaret_, whoseonly merit was that we, being its first occupants, found everything mostperfectly fresh and clean; but having been only opened that day, and thetown being very full, everything was in disorder, and there were but twobedrooms for papa, myself, William, and Thrower. [2] It became an anxiousquestion how to appropriate them, as there was but one bed in one of therooms, and two in the other. However, it was finally arranged, that papaand William should sleep in the double-bedded room, and Thrower and Itogether in the single bed. We called Thrower a _lady_ of the party, andmade her dine with us, for had they known she was only a "help, " shemight probably have fared badly. After getting some dinner, at which the people are never at a loss inAmerica, any more than in France, we sallied forth to see the town, andwere exceedingly pleased with its appearance. Nothing could be brighteror fresher than it looked, and the flags and streamers across thestreet, and general lighting up, were foreign-looking and picturesque. Although the town is but small compared with those we had just left, theshops were spacious and well filled, and the things in them of a goodquality. Hearing that there was a meeting at the City Hall, we went toit, little expecting to find such a splendid room. In order to reach it, we had to pass through a corridor, where the names of the officers ofthe corporation were painted over doors on each side, and were struckwith amazement, when, at the end of this, we entered a hall, as lightand bright-looking as St. James' Hall in London, and though not perhapsso large, still of considerable dimensions, and well proportioned. Thewalls were stone-colour, and the wood-work of the roof and lightgalleries were buff, picked out with the brightest scarlet. On aplatform at one end of the room were seated the Mayor of Springfield, and many guests whom he introduced one by one to the audience in shortspeeches. These worthies delivered harangues on the subject of horsesand their uses; and the speeches were really very respectable, and nottoo long, but were delivered in general with a strong nasal twang. There were persons from all parts of America; Ohio, Carolina, &c. &c. We made out our night tolerably well, and next morning went to look atthe arsenal, and depôt of arms, and were shown over the place by aperson connected with the establishment, who was most civil and obligingin explaining the nature of all we saw. The view from the tower was mostlovely. The panorama was encircled by high hills, clothed with wood; andthe town, and many villages and churches, all of dazzling whiteness, layscattered before the eye. We drove next to the Horse Fair, which wasvery well arranged. There was a circus of half a mile, forming a widecarriage road, on which horses were ridden or driven, to show off theirmerits. The quickest trotted at the rate of twenty miles an hour. Whenthe horses were driven in pairs, the driver held a rein in each hand. There was a platform at one end filled with well-conducted people, and ajudge's seat near it. The horses in single-harness went faster even thanthose in pairs: one horse, called Ethan Allen, performing abouttwenty-four miles an hour; though Edward may arrive nearer than this"about, " by calculating at the rate of two minutes and thirty-sevenseconds, in which it went twice round this circle. The owner of thishorse has refused $15, 000 or 3000_l. _ for it. It is said to be thefastest horse in America, and a beautiful animal, but most of the horseswere very fine. The people seemed to enjoy themselves much, and allappeared most quiet and decorous, but the whole population surprised usin this respect. We have seen but one drunken man since we landed. Evenin our new cabaret, the opening of which might have given occasion for acarousal, every thing was most orderly. Our landlord, however, seemedvery full of the importance of his position, and could think and talk ofnothing but of this said cabaret. Their phraseology, is often very odd. In the evening, he said, "Now, will you like your dinner _right away_?"As we walked along the streets, and tried to get a room elsewhere, a mansaid, smacking his hands together, "No, they are already _threbled_ inevery room. " But I must now tell you of our journey from Springfield to Albany: thedistance between the two is exactly 100 miles; Boston being 200 fromAlbany. We left Springfield by train at twelve o'clock, and reachedPittsfield, a distance of fifty miles, at half-past two. This part ofthe road presented a succession of beautiful views. Your sisters willremember that part of the road near Chaudes Fontaines, where it runsthrough the valley, and crosses the Vesdre every five minutes. If theycan imagine this part of it extended for fifty miles, and on a muchlarger scale, they may form some notion of what we saw. The railwaycrossed the river at least thirty times, so we had it on the right handand left hand alternately, as on that little bit in Belgium. The river, called the Westfield, was very rapid in places, and the water, whendeep, almost of a rich coffee colour. At Pittsfield we got on to theplateau which separates the Connecticut River and the Hudson. The plainis elevated more than 1000 feet above the sea. We then began rapidly todescend. The country was still as pretty as before, but more open, withhills in the back-ground, for till we reached Pittsfield these wereclose to us, and beautifully wooded to the top. At Pittsfield, in thecentre of the town, there is a very large elm tree, the elm being thegreat tree of the country, but this surpassed all its neighbours, itsheight being 120 feet, and the stem 90 feet before any branches sprangfrom it. We reached Albany at five o'clock; and a most beautiful town it is. Thegreat street, as well as one at right angles to it leading up to theCapitol, is wider, I think, than any street we ever saw; and the shopson both sides are very splendid. The hotel is very large and good; but, alas! instead of our dear darkies at Newport, we had some twentypale-faced damsels to wait at table, all dressed alike in pink cottons, their bare necks much displayed in front, with large white collars, twolittle frills to form the short sleeves, large, bare, clean, white arms, and short white aprons not reaching to the knees. They had no caps, andsuch a circumference of hoops! quite Yankeeish in their style; and mostcareless, flirtatious-looking and impertinent in their manners. We werequite disgusted with them; and even papa could not defend any one ofthem. We were naturally very badly waited upon; they sailingmajestically about the room instead of rushing to get what we wanted, asthe niggers at Newport did. Men-servants answered the bed-room bells, and brought our hot water; the ladies being employed only as waiters. This morning the fine weather we had hitherto enjoyed began to fail us, as it rained in torrents. Notwithstanding this, we started at half-pastseven; passing through what in sunshine must be a lovely country, toUtica on the New York Central Railway, and thence by a branch railway offifteen miles to Trenton Falls. The country was much more cultivatedthan any we have yet seen. There were large fields of Indian corn, andmany of another kind, called broom corn, being grown only to makebrooms. We passed many fields of a brilliant orange-red pumpkin, which, when cooked, looks something like mashed turnips, and is called squash:it is very delicate and nice. But beautiful as the country was, even inthe rain, we soon found out that we had left New England and itsbright-looking wooden houses. The material of which the houses are builtremains the same; but instead of being painted, and looking trim andneat as in New England, they consisted of the natural unpainted wood;though twelve hours of pouring rain may have made them moremelancholy-looking than usual; for they were all of a dingy brown, andhad a look bordering on poverty and dilapidation in some instances, towhich we were quite unaccustomed. On reaching this place we found the hotel was closed for the season; butrooms had been secured in a very fair country inn, where we had atolerable dinner. We were glad to see the rain gradually cease; and thepromise of a fine afternoon caused us to sally out as soon after dinneras we could to see the falls. These are very beautiful: they are formedby a tributary of the Mohawk River, along the banks of which (of theMohawk itself I mean) our railway this morning passed for about fortymiles. The Erie Canal, a most celebrated work, is carried along theother bank of the river; so that, during all this distance, the river, the railway, and the canal were running parallel to each other, and nota pistol shot across the three. [3] We had been warned by some Swissfriends at Newport against carelessness and rashness in walking alongthe narrow ledge cut in the face of the rock, so we took a guide andfound the pass very slippery from the heavy rain. The amiable youngguide took possession of me, and for a time I got on tolerably well, clinging to the chain which in places was fastened against the face ofthe rock; but as the path narrowed, my head began to spin, and as theguide discouraged me, under these circumstances, from going any further, I turned back with Thrower and regained _dry land_, while the rest ofthe party were accomplishing their difficult task. They returned muchsooner than we expected, delighted with all they had seen, though papasaid I was right not to have pursued the narrow ledge. He then took methrough a delightful wood to the head of the falls, where a seat in alittle summer-house enabled me to enjoy the lovely scene. The rivertakes three leaps over rocks, the highest about 40 feet; though in twomiles the descent is 312 feet. Beautifully wooded rocks rise up oneither side; and the sunshine this afternoon lighting up the wet leavesadded to the beauty of the scene. We scrambled down from thesummer-house to the bed of the river, and walked on to the foot of theupper fall; which, though not so high as the others, was very pretty. Inreturning home we had glimpses of the falls through the trees. Many ofthe firs and maples are of a great height, rising an immense way withoutany branches, reminding us of the oaks at Fontainebleau. We had to change our damp clothes on our return to the inn; and afterpartaking of tea-cakes, stewed pears, and honey, I am now sitting in thepublic room in my white dressing-gown. This toilette, I have no doubt, is thought quite _en régle_, for white dresses are much worn in America;and the company here this evening is not very refined or capable ofappreciating the points in which mine may be deficient. There is dancingat the great hotel every night in the season; but that is now over. Somesad accidents have happened here, by falls over the precipice into theriver. The last occurred this year, when a young boy of eight, a twinson of a family staying here, from New York, was drowned: but theseaccidents, we are told, generally happen in the safest places fromcarelessness. We go on, to-morrow, probably to Rochester, where thereare some pretty small falls; and on Saturday, the 17th, we hope to reachNiagara, from whence this letter is to be posted for England. A nigger, and our guide of this afternoon, have just seated themselvesin the corner of the drawing room where I am writing, and are playing, one the fiddle, and the other the guitar. Perhaps they are trying to getup a "hop, " later, but there do not seem materials enough for it, andtheir tune is at present squeaky--jerky--with an attempt at an adagio. The nigger is now playing "Comin' thro' the Rye, " with much expression, both of face and fiddle! Oh, such, squeaks! I wish Louisa heard them. Here come the variations with accompaniment of guitar. --Later. --Thenigger is now singing plaintive love ditties! _International Hotel, Niagara Falls, September 18th. _--We had gone fromthe station at Trenton to Trenton Falls in a close, lumbering, heavycoach, which is of very ordinary use in America. But yesterday morningwe went over the same ground in an omnibus, which allowed us to see thegreat beauty of the country to perfection; and, although we hadoccasional heavy showers, the day was, on the whole, much morepropitious for travelling, as the atmosphere was very clear, and thesandy dust was laid. We returned to Utica, or "Utikay, " as they call it, and, having an hour to spare, went and saw the State Lunatic Asylum; butthere was not much to remark upon it, although everything, as seemsgenerally the case in this country, was very orderly and well kept. The building, however, was not seen to advantage, as a very largeportion of it was burnt down last year, and the new buildings were notentirely finished. The gentleman who showed us round was very attentive, and gave us a report of the establishment, which shows how creditablyevery one acted in the trying emergency of the fire. He gave us, also, two numbers of a little periodical, which is written and published bythe inmates. We left Utica soon after eleven, and came on to Syracuse, through awell wooded and better cultivated country than we have yet passed. Theaspect of the country is varied by fields of Indian corn, and tracts ofburnt and charred stumps of trees, the remains of burnt forests. Thesestumps are left for some time to rot in the ground, and a few tallerstems, without branches, are left standing, giving the whole a forlornappearance but for the thought that the land will soon be cultivated andreturn a great produce; were it not for this, one would regret the lossof the trees, which are turned everywhere here to good account. Thehouses and cottages are all wood. The hurdles, used everywhere insteadof hedges, are wood. The floorings of both the large and small stationsare wood, worn to shreds, sometimes, by the tramp of feet. The engineburns wood. The forests are burnt to get rid of the wood. Long andenormous stacks of wood line the road continually, and often obstructthe view. All this made our journey to Syracuse, though interesting, much tamer than on the preceding days. An accident happened to theboiler, which detained us at _Rome_, but, as we were luckily near thestation, we soon got another engine. On the whole, one travels withquite as great a feeling of security as in England. From Syracuse to Rochester there are two roads, one short and direct, and another, which, by taking a southern direction, passes throughAuburn, Cayuga, Geneva, and Canandaigua. We were well repaid by takingthe longer route, as the road went round the heads of the lakes, and inone case, indeed, crossed the head of the lake where these beautifullittle towns are situated. The views of all these lakes, but especiallyof lake Cayuga, and of lake Seneca on which Geneva is situated, are verylovely. They stretch "right away" between high banks, varying from twoto five miles apart, each forming a beautiful vista, closed up bydistant blue hills at the further end. These lakes vary from thirty toforty miles in length, and by means of steamboats form an easycommunication, though a more tedious one than the railways, between thisand the southern part of the State of New York. We had a capitalcicerone to explain all that we saw as we went along, in a Yankee, whotold us he was "raised" in these parts, though he lived in "Virginny. "He looked like a small farmer, but had a countenance of the keenestintelligence. He told papa, before he had spoken five minutes with him, that it was quite right a person of his intelligence should come to thiscountry. When we came to Auburn, he quoted "'Sweet Auburn, loveliestvillage of the plain;' a beautiful poem, sir, written by Goldsmith, oneof your own poets. " We told him we thought of going to St. Paul, beyondthe Mississippi, when he said, "Oh yes! that's a new country--that's a_cold_ country too. If you are there in the winter, it will make you_snap_. " At Rochester we stopped for an hour to dine. We had intended to sleepthere, but none of us being tired, we changed our plan in order to comeon here last night. During this hour we went to see the Falls of theGenessee, which in some respects surpassed Trenton, as the river is verybroad, and falls in one sheet, from a height of ninety-six feet, over aperpendicular wall of rock. We dined, and then papa and I took a rapidwalk to the post office, to post a letter to Alfred O. , at Toronto. Thestreets, as usual, were very wide, with spacious "stores" running veryfar back, as they all seem to do in America. I asked when the letterwould reach Toronto, and the man answered, "It ought to do so to-morrow, but it is uncertain when it will. " Papa asked our guide from the hotelwhere he was "raised, " (papa is getting quite a Yankee), to which hereplied, "in Ireland. " I slept, wonderful to say, through part of ourjourney here, in one of those most uncomfortable cars, but woke up aswe approached the station. The night was splendid (we had seen the cometat Rochester), and the moon was so bright as to make it almost as lightas day; you may imagine our excitement when we saw, in the distance, rising above the trees, a light cloud of mist from the Falls ofNiagara. ? _Clifton House, September 18th. _--Papa got into a melancholy mood at theInternational Hotel yesterday evening, on account of the hotel being anenormous one, and like a huge barrack; half of it we suspect is shut up, for they gave us small room _au second_, though they acknowledged theymade up four hundred beds, and had only one hundred guests in the house. The dining room was about one hundred and fifty feet long, and the hotelwas half in darkness from the lateness of the hour, and had no view ofthe Falls; so papa got more and more miserable, and I could only comforthim by reminding him we could be off to this hotel early in the morning;for as it is the fashion to try first one side for the view, and thenthe other, there was no offence in going from the United States to ourown English possessions. On this he cheered up and we went out, and thefirst sight we got of this glorious river was at about eleven o'clock, when he insisted upon my passing over the bridge to Goat Island. It wasthe most lovely moonlight night conceivable, and the beams lit up thecrests of the foaming waves as they came boiling over the rapids. It wasa glorious sight, though I was rather frightened, not knowing whatperils might be in store for us. To-day we made out our move to the Canada side, and are most comfortablylodged. Before coming to this hotel, we took a long drive down theriver, on the American side. We got out of the carriage to see theDevil's Hole, a deep ravine, often full of water, but now dry. We stoodon a high precipice, and had a grand view of the river. The _river_ isgenerally passed over in silence in all descriptions of Niagara, and yetit is one of the most lovely parts of the scene. Its colour after it hasleft the Falls, and proceeds on its rapid way, full of life andanimation, to Lake Ontario, is a most tender sea green. We drove onabout six miles, and then crossed a slight suspension bridge (_the_suspension bridge being a ponderous structure for the railroad trains topass over); but the one by which we crossed looked like a spider's-web;and the view midway, whether we looked up or down, was the finestspecimen of river scenery I ever beheld. We then turned up the stream, and came by the English side to a most wonderful whirlpool, formed bythe river making a rapid bend, and proceeding in a course at rightangles to the one it had been previously pursuing; but the violence ofthe stream had caused it to proceed a long way first in the originaldirection; and it was evidently not till it had scooped, or hollowedout, a large basin, that it was forced to yield to the barrier that wasopposed to it. This is the sort of bend it takes. [Illustration: Whirlpool] After dinner we went to deliver a letter which papa had brought for Mr. Street, who has a house above the Falls. He was not at home; but we wentthrough the grounds and over a suspension bridge he has built to connecta large island, also his property, with the mainland. There are, infact, not one but many islands, into which one large one has probably, in the course of time, become divided by the raging torrent. It is justabove the Horse-Shoe Fall, in the midst of the most boisterous part ofthe rapids; and it was quite sublime on looking up the river to see thehorizon formed at a considerable level above our heads by the mass offoaming water. But now for the Falls! * * * * * You must fill up this blank with your imagination, for no words canconvey any idea of the scene. They far surpass anything we could havebelieved of them. This, however, I write after a thorough study of themfrom various points of view; for when we first caught a glimpse, in ourdrive to-day, of the Fall on the American side, it disappointed us; butfrom the verandah of this hotel, on which our bed-room windows open, wehad the first astounding view of the two Falls, with Goat Islanddividing them; and that sight baffles all description. The Horse-ShoeFall is magnificent. The curve is so graceful and beautiful; and themist so mysterious, rising, as it does, from the depths below, andpresenting the appearance of a moving veil as it glides past, whetheryielding to every breath of wind, or, as now, when driven quickly by agale; then the height of the clouds of light white mist rising above thetrees; and, above all, the delicate emerald green where the curve itselftakes place: all these elements of beauty combined, fill the mind withwonder, when contemplating so glorious a work of God's hand; so simple, and yet so striking and magnificent. We can gaze at the whole all dayand all night, if we please, from our own windows. The moon being nearlyfull, is a _great_ addition to the beauty of the scene. I havefrequently risen from my seat while writing this, to look first at therapids above the American Fall, lit up and shining like the brightestsilver; then at the moon on the mist, illuminating first one part of itand then another. I must proceed with my description of our doings (if Ican) on Monday, before leaving this for Toronto, which we are to do onMonday afternoon; but this must be posted here, and I should like tofinish my description of Niagara in this letter. We met a real Indianto-day. He had somewhat of a Chinese cast of countenance. Perhaps weshall see more of them. It is said that some of the black waiters inthis hotel are escaped slaves, having come to English ground for safety. _September 19th. _--This being Sunday, we went to a chapel in a villageof native Indians of the Tuscarrara tribe. The chapel was about halffilled with these poor Indians and half with visitors like ourselves. They have had a missionary among them for about fifty years, and it isto be hoped that former missionaries talked more sense to them, andtaught them better truths, than the one we heard to-day. His sermon wasboth long and tedious, and was interpreted into the Tuscarrara languagesentence by sentence as the preacher, who was a Presbyterian, deliveredit. The burden of it was their ingratitude, not to God, but to theGovernment of the United States, which had devoted an untold number ofdollars for their conversion; and he ended by a threat that thisgenerosity on their part would be withdrawn if they did not alter theirwicked course of life. As we were there for half an hour before theservice began, we had an opportunity of conversing with many of thesepoor people, who seemed little to deserve this severe censure, for manyof them had evidently come from a distance, having brought their foodwith them, and the people seemed of a quiet and harmless disposition. Few of them seemed to understand English, and these only the men, as thewomen professed, at least, not to understand papa when he tried to talkto them. They had all of them remarkably piercing and intelligent blackeyes, but were not otherwise good looking. There were two little babiesin their mothers' arms, one in a bright yellow dress. The women worehandkerchiefs tied over their heads, except one or two who wore roundhats and feathers. Some in hoops and crinolines! All wore beadnecklaces. They are the makers of the well-known mohair and bark andbeadwork. In the churchyard were many tombstones with Englishinscriptions. The following is the copy we made of one:-- "SEKWARIHTHICH-DEA WM. CHEW, GRAND SACHEM OF THE TUSCARRARA NATION OF INDIANS, WHO DIED DEC. 16, 1857, In the 61st year of his age. The memory of his many virtues will be embalmed in the hearts of his people, and posterity will speak of his praise. He was a good man, and a just. He held the office of Grand Sachem 30 years, and was Missionary Interpreter 29 years. " After chapel we returned to the American side of the Fall, where the_table d'hôte_ dinner was later than at the Clifton Hotel, which we hadmissed. While waiting for dinner, we went again to Goat Island, and hadsome splendid views of the Falls, the day being magnificent beyond alldescription. Papa and William afterwards took a long walk to get a newview of the whirlpool. Papa has made me dreadfully anxious all day bygoing too close to the edges of the precipices; and as the rock is verybrittle and easily crumbles off, and as his feet often trip in walking, you may suppose the agonies I have been in; at last I began to wishmyself and him safe in the streets of Toronto. I was not the leastfrightened for myself, but it was trying to see him always looking over, and about to lean against old crazy wooden balustrades that William saidmust have given way from sheer rottenness with any weight upon them. This is _such_ a night, not a single cloud; the clearest possible skyand the moon shining brightly, as it did over the two Falls the firstnight we were here. Papa calls me every minute--"Oh come, do come, thisminute; I do not believe you have ever yet seen the Falls!!!" To-morrowwe have one remaining expedition, --to go in a small steamer called the"Maid of the Mist, " which pokes her nose into the two Falls about sixtimes a day. The passengers are put into waterproof dresses. This I hopeto describe to you to-morrow, and shall despatch my letter beforestarting for Toronto. FOOTNOTES: [2] My English maid. [3] The Erie Canal is one of the three great means of communicationwhich existed previous to the introduction of railways between theEastern States and those that lie to the west of the Alleghanies; theother two being the Pennsylvania and the Baltimore and Ohio Canals. Sections of these great works are shown on the map. LETTER IV. NIAGARA. --MAID OF THE MIST. --ARRIVAL AT TORONTO. --TORONTO. --THOUSAND ISLANDS. --RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. --MONTREAL. --VICTORIA BRIDGE. Clifton Hotel, Falls of Niagara, Sept. 20th, 1858. I intended to have wound up the description of Niagara in the letter Idespatched to you two hours ago, but we returned home from ourexpedition this morning only five minutes before the post hour forEngland, so that our packet had to be hastily closed. We had rather a chapter of accidents this morning, but all has endedwell. We went out immediately after breakfast, the weather beingsplendid, though there was a high wind, and finding the mist drivingvery hard, we decided on going over to the opposite shore across thesuspension bridge, rather than be ferried over to the steamer in a smallopen boat, which can never, I imagine, be very pleasant in such a nearneighbourhood to the two Falls. William, however, remained on this side, preferring the ferry, and we were to meet on the opposite bank and taketo the little steamer; but though our drive took half-an-hour and hisrow five minutes, he was not at the place of rendezvous when, wearrived, nor did he appear after we had waited for him some time. Papathen went in a sort of open car down an inclined plane, contrived tosave the fatigue of a long stair. On getting to the bottom he sawnothing of William, and in walking on the wet planks he slipped down andfell on his side, and cut his face and bruised his eye; he says his eyewas within a hair's breadth of being put out by the sharp corner of arock. He walked up the long stair, being too giddy after his fall toattempt the car, and he felt very headachy and unwell in consequence allthe morning. At last William made his appearance. There had been noferryman for a long time, and when he came he knew so little how tomanage the boat, that had not William rowed they would have been downthe river and over the rapids! At last we all four (Thrower included), started down the inclined plane to the steamer, and were warned bypapa's tumble to take care of our footing. It might easily be made amore pleasant landing-place than it is by means of their everlastingwood. We got on to the "Maid of the Mist, " and were made to take off ourbonnets and hats, and put on a sort of waterproof capuchin cloak andhood, and up we went on deck. In one moment we were drenched; the deckwas a running sea, and the mist drove upon us much harder than pouringrain. I went there with a cold, and if it gets no worse, shall thinkfresh water is as innocuous as salt. It was quite a question whether thething was worth doing: the day was probably unfavourable, as the mistdrove on us instead of the other way, but some parts were very fine. Wereturned to the same landing-place, as they most stupidly have none onthis side; so up we went again in the open cars, and on landing we hadour photographs done twice with views of the Falls as a background. Theywere very well and rapidly done. We then drove William towards the Caveof the Winds, which is a passage behind what looks from these windows amere thread of a waterfall, but is really a very considerable one. Ladies, however, perform this feat as well as gentlemen, but they haveentirely to change their dress--it is like walking through a greatshower-bath to a _cul de sac_ in the rock. Circular rainbows are seenhere, and William saw two; he seemed to be standing on one which made aperfect circle round him. A certificate was given him of his havingaccomplished this feat. While he was doing this we bought a few thingsmade by the Indians and the Shakers, and then met William, and hurriedhome in time only to sign and despatch our letters to England. We thendined, and I am now obliged suddenly to stop short in writing, as mydespatch-box must be packed, for we leave this at half-past four forToronto. _Rossin House, Toronto, Sept. 21st. _--Our journey here yesterday was notthrough as pretty a country as usual, and this part of Canada strikes usas much tamer than anything we have yet seen in America. We changedtrains at Hamilton and remained there nearly an hour. Sir Allan McNabhas a country house in the neighbourhood, said to be a very pretty one, and we shall probably go in the train to-morrow to see him. Therailroad, for some time towards the end of our journey yesterday, ranalong the shore of Lake Ontario. The sky was pure and clear, with themoon shining brightly on the waters of the quiet lake. It was difficultto believe that the immense expanse of water was not salt. It looked solike the sea, especially when within a few miles of Toronto we saw tinywaves and minute pebbles and sand, which gave it an appearance of aminiature sea beach. Had I not been on a railway when I saw these smallpebbles, I should have picked up some for you, and I think you wouldhave valued them as much as your cornelians at Cromer. I searched forthem later, and never came up with such a pretty pebbly beach again. _Montreal, Sept. 25th. _--Unhappily this sheet has been packed up bymistake for some days, and I have not been able to go on with myjournal, but I resume it this evening, for it must be despatched to youthe day after to-morrow. We passed the 22nd and 23rd at Toronto, and had much pleasure there inseeing a great deal of the Alfred O. 's, and their very nice children, and it was quite touching to see the pleasure our visit gave them. Wehad the sorrow, however, of parting from William, who left us on themorning of the 23rd for the Far West. He went with Mr. Latham and Mr. Kilburn, and it was a very great comfort to us that he had such pleasantcompanions, instead of travelling such a distance alone. We had an earlyvisit at Toronto from Mr. And Mrs. W. , friends of the O. 's: they beggedus so earnestly to remain over the 23rd to dine with them, that weconsented to do so. Toronto is a most melancholy-looking place. It hassuffered in the "crisis, " and the consequence is that wide streets seemto have been begun but never finished, giving the town a very disastrouslook. There is one wide handsome street with good shops, and our hotelwas an enormous one; but when this is said, there is little more to addabout it, for it looks otherwise very forlorn, and altogether the townis the least inviting one we have yet seen in our travels. In the course of our drive we had an opportunity of seeing the interiorsof some of the houses, many of which display considerable wealth; therooms being large, and filled with ornaments of every sort. The ladiesdress magnificently; a handsome coral brooch is often worn, and isalmost an infallible sign, both here and in the United States, of a tourto Italy having been accomplished; indeed I can feel nearly as certainthat the wearer has travelled so far, by seeing her collar fastened withit, as if she told me the fact, and many such journeys must have beenperformed, judging by the number of coral brooches we see. We did little the first day but drive about the streets. We drank tea atthe A. O. 's, and the next day they took us to see one very beautifulsight; the New University, which is in course of building, and is themost beautiful structure we have seen in America. Indeed it is the onlyone which makes the least attempt at Mediæval architecture, and is avery correct specimen of the twelfth century. The funds for buildingthis university arise out of the misappropriation (by secularising them)of the clergy reserves; the lands appropriated to the college givingthem possession of funds to the amount of about three hundred thousandpounds. Of this the building, it is supposed, will absorb about onehundred and twenty thousand pounds, and they propose to lay out a largesum to increase an already very good library, which is rich in works onnatural history and English topography. Dr. McCaul, who is the presidentof the college, is a brother of the preacher in London. We dined at the W. 's on the evening of the 23rd. Their house is verylarge, having been lately added to, and the town being very busy, preparing for an Agricultural Meeting, the upholsterer had not time toput down the carpets or put up the curtains, and the night being cold, we felt a little twinge of what a Canadian winter is; but thedrawing-rooms were exceedingly pretty, --the walls being very lightstucco, with ornaments in relief, and they were brilliantly lighted. Wewere eighteen at dinner, the party including the O. 's, the Mayor, Dr. And Mrs. McCaul, and Sir Allan McNab, who had come from hiscountry-place to meet us. The dinner was as well appointed, in allrespects, as if it had taken place in London. In the evening Mrs. W. Sang "Where the bee sucks" most beautifully. Papa encored it, and wasquite delighted at hearing so favourite a song so well sung. Themayoress also sang, and so did another lady. The furniture of the roomswas of American oak and black walnut, which are favourite woods; but wedid not much admire them. When we were leaving, Mrs. W. Showed us herbed-room, which was really splendid, --so spacious, and so beautifullyfurnished; there was a bath-room near it, and other bed-rooms also oflarge dimensions. We drove back to our hotel in the moonlight, so brightand clear that it was difficult not to suppose it daylight, except thatthe planets were so brilliant. We took leave that night of the O. 's, as we had to make an early startnext day, and were very sorry to part from them. On the 24th, we wereoff at eight in the morning by train to Kingston, arriving there earlyin the afternoon. It is the best sleeping-place between Toronto andMontreal. The road was uninteresting, though at times we came upon thebroad waters of the lake, which varied the scenery. We had an excellentdinner at the station, and I ought to mention, that as we weretravelling on the Grand Trunk Railway, and on English soil, we hadfirst class carriages; there being both first and second class on thisline, but varying only in the softness of the seats. There was no otherdifference from other lines. Kingston is a prosperous little town on the borders of the lake, and thehotel quite a small country inn. We drove out to see the Penitentiary, or prison, for the whole of the Two Canadas, --a most massive stonestructure. I never was within prison-walls before, so that I cannotcompare it with others; but, though papa had much admired the prison atBoston, he preferred the principle of giving the prisoners work inpublic (which is the case at Kingston), to the solitary system atBoston. We saw the men hard at work making furniture, and in theblacksmith's forge, and making an enormous quantity of boots; they workten hours a day in total silence, and all had a subdued look; but wewere glad to think they had employment, and could see each other. Theirfood is excellent, --a good meat diet, and the best bread. Thesleeping-places seemed to us dreadful little solitary dens, though theman who showed us over them said they were better than they would havehad on board ship. There were sixty female prisoners employed in makingthe men's clothes, but these we were not allowed to see. One lady ispermitted to visit them, in order to give them religious instruction, but they do not otherwise see the visitors to the prison. There areprisoners of all religious denominations, a good many being RomanCatholics; and there are chaplains to suit their creeds, and morning andevening prayers. We walked back to Kingston, and on the walls observed notices of ameeting to be held in the town that evening, to remonstrate against thework done by the prisoners, which is said to injure trade; but, as wewere to make a very early start in the morning, we did not go to it. We were called at half-past four to be ready for the boat which startedat six for Montreal. It was a rainy morning, and I awoke in a ratherdepressed state of mind, with the prospect before me of having todescend the rapids of the St. Lawrence in the steamer; and as thecaptain of our vessel in crossing the Atlantic had said, he was not alittle nervous at going down them, I thought I might be so too. We hadfirst, however, to go through the Thousand Islands, which sounds veryromantic, but turned out rather a failure. There are in reality about1, 400 of these islands, where the river St. Lawrence issues from LakeOntario. The morning was unpropitious, it being very rainy, and this, nodoubt, helped to give them a dismal appearance. They are of all formsand sizes, some three miles long, and some hardly appearing above thewater. The disappointment to us was their flatness, and their all beingalike in their general aspect, being covered with light wood. When thisis lit up by the sun, they are probably very pretty, as we experiencedlater in the day, which turned out to be a most brilliant one. Theislands are generally uninhabited, except by wild ducks, deer, foxes, raccoons, squirrels, musk-rats, and minxes, and also by partridges inabundance. We have tasted the wild duck, which is very good. About one o'clock in the day we lost sight of the islands, except a few, which occasionally are scattered along the river; we had no longerhowever to thread our way among them, as we had done earlier in the day. Dinner was at two, but we were not much disposed to go down, for we hadjust passed one rapid, and were coming to the finest of all, the Cedars;but they turned out to be by no means alarming to an unpractised eye. The water is much disturbed, and full of small crests of waves. Therewere four men at the wheel, besides four at the tiller, and they had nodoubt to keep a sharp look out; we stood on deck, and received a goodsea in our faces, and were much excited by the scene. The longest rapidoccupied us about twenty minutes, being nine miles long. It is calledthe Long Sault. The banks on either side continued flat; we stoppedoccasionally at pretty little villages to take in passengers or wood, but these stoppages told much against our progress, and the days nowbeing short, we were informed that the vessel could not reach Montrealthat night. There is a rapid a few miles above Montreal, which is themost dangerous of them all, and cannot be passed in the dark. The boat, therefore, stopped at La Chine for the night, and we had our choice ofsleeping on board or landing and taking the train for eight miles toMontreal; and as we had seen all the rest of the rapids, and did notfeel much disposed for the pleasure of a night in a small cabin, wedecided on landing. We had tea first, with plenty of cold meat on thetable, and the fare was excellent on board, with no extra charge for it. Before landing we had a most magnificent sunset. The sun sank at thestern of the vessel; and the sky remained for an hour after in the mostexquisite shades of colouring, from clear blue, shading to a pale green, and then to a most glorious golden colour. The water was of the deepestblue, and the great width of the noble river added to the grandeur ofthe scene. The Canadian evenings and nights are surpassingly beautiful. The atmosphere is so light, and the colouring of the sunset and thebright light of the moon are beyond all description. We madeacquaintance with a couple of Yankees on board, who amused us much. Theywere a young couple, travelling, they said, for pleasure. They looked ofthe middle class, and were an amusing specimen of Yankee vulgarity. Thelady's expression for admiration was "ullegant:" the dinner was"ullegant, " the sunset was "ullegant, " and so was the moonrise, and sowere the corn-cakes and corn-pops _fixed_ by herself or her mother. Shewas delighted with the bead bracelet I was making, and I gave her apattern of the beads. She was astonished to find that the English madethe electric cable. She and her husband mean to go to England andScotland in two years. I was obliged to prepare her for bad hotels andthick atmosphere, at both of which she seemed astonished. She was alsomuch surprised that she would not find Negro waiters in London. Theyremained on board for the night; and on meeting her in the streetyesterday, she assured us the last rapid was "ullegant, " and that we hadmissed much in not seeing it. We arrived at Montreal at eight o'clock on the evening of the 24th, andwalked a little about the town. The moon was so bright that colourscould be clearly distinguished. We yesterday spent many hours on theVictoria bridge which is building here across the river in connectionwith the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a most wonderful work, and I mustrefer you to an interesting article in the last _Edinburgh Review_ for afull account of it. Papa had letters to the chief officials of therailway, which procured us the advantage of being shown the work inevery detail by Mr. Hodges (an Englishman), who has undertaken thesuperintendence of it--the plans having been given him by Stephenson. The expense will be enormous--about a million and a quarter sterling;almost all raised in England. The great difficulties to be contendedwith are:--the width of the river--it being two miles wide at thispoint; its rapidity--the current running at the rate of seven miles anhour; and the enormous masses of ice which accumulate in the river inthe winter; rising as high sometimes as the houses on either side, andthen bursting their bounds and covering the road. The stone piers arebuilt with a view to resist as much as possible this pressure; and agreat number of them are finished, and have never yet received ascratch from the ice, which is satisfactory. Their profile is of thisform. And this knife-like edge cuts the ice through as it passes downthe river, enabling the blocks to divide at the piers and pass under thebridge on each side. The piers are built of limestone, in blocks varyingfrom eight to ten feet high: but in sinking a foundation for them, springs are frequently met with under some large boulders in the bed ofthe river, and this causes great delay, as the water has to be pumpedout before the building can proceed. The bridge will be an iron tubularone; the tubes come out from Birkenhead in pieces, and are rivetedtogether here. We first rowed across the river with Mr. Hodges in asix-oared boat; and the day being warm and very fine, we enjoyed itmuch. This gave us some idea of the breadth of the river and of thelength of the bridge, of which it is impossible to judge when seenfore-shortened from the shore. [Illustration: Bridge piers] We then mounted the bridge and were astonished at the magnitude of thework. There is an immense forest of woodwork underneath most of it atpresent, but they are glad to clear this away as fast as the progress ofthe upper work admits, as if left till winter the force of the ice cutsthrough these enormous beams as if they were straw. We could onlyproceed across two piers at the end furthest from the town, but here wehad a very fine view of Montreal, lying at the foot of the hill fromwhich it takes its name. It has many large churches, the largest beingthe Roman Catholic cathedral, and the tin roofs of the houses andchurches glittered in the sun and gave a brilliant effect. We returnedto the boat and rowed again across the river below the bridge, and here, owing to the strength of the current our boat had to pursue a mostzig-zag path, pulling up under the eddy of each buttress, but ourboatmen knew well what they were about, as they are in the habit oftaking Mr. Hodges daily to the bridge and it was very pretty to hear thewarning of _doucement! doucement!_ from the helmsman as we approachedany peril. Mr. H. Said that without the familiarity they had with theriver, the boat would in an instant be carried down the stream and outof all control. The French language is much more spoken than theEnglish, there being a large body of French Roman Catholic Canadianshere and at Quebec. I say this to account for the _doucement_; but mustnow leave this wonderful bridge, and tell you that after seeing it wedrove to the Bishop of Montreal's. We found him and Mrs. Fulford athome, and sat some time with them, and they asked us to drink tea withthem, which we did. There was no one there but ourselves, and we passedan agreeable evening with them, and came home by moonlight with thecomet also beaming on us. _September 27th. _--We went yesterday morning to a small church in thesuburbs where the bishop preached. We found Lord and Lady Radstock inthe hotel, and papa walked with him in the afternoon, and endeavoured tolearn something of the Christian Young Men's Association here. Theyfound the secretary at home, and from him learnt that the revivals ofreligion here have lately been of a satisfactory nature, and that thereis a great deal of religious feeling at work among the middle classes. Iforgot to mention that on Saturday we met a long procession of nunsgoing to the church of Notre Dame, which gave the place a very foreignlook. We went into the church for a few minutes. It was very large, partof it was well filled, and a French sermon going on. There are a goodmany convents here, and I shall try to visit one. The Jesuits are saidto be very busy. We hear French constantly spoken in the streets. Wewent to church again yesterday evening, when the bishop preached on thetext, "Demas hath forsaken me. " To-day we took Lord and Lady Radstock to Mr. Hodges, who promised toshow them over the bridge, and since that papa and I have had a pleasantdrive round the mountain. From one part we had a good view of the Ottawariver, celebrated by Moore, who wrote his Canadian boat song in a canoeon the rapids of that river. The town of Ottawa has been named by theQueen as the seat of Government; but after consulting her on thesubject, the inhabitants seem disinclined to take her advice. The viewswere very pretty, and the day warm and pleasant. As we drove wefrequently saw on the walls, large placards with a single text in Frenchor English, an evidence of the work of the revival going on here. Wewound up our visit to Montreal by buying some furs, this being the bestplace to get them: they are to be shipped from here in a sailing vessel, and therefore will not reach London for some time, but notice will besent of their coming; so be on the look out for them some day. We areoff this afternoon for Quebec, where we hope to find some good news fromyou all. So adieu, my dear child. LETTER V. JOURNEY FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. --QUEBEC. --FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. --ISLAND POND. --WHITE MOUNTAINS. --PORTLAND. --RETURN TO BOSTON. --HARVARD UNIVERSITY. --NEWHAVEN. --YALE UNIVERSITY. --RETURN TO NEW YORK. Portland Maine, Sept. 29th, 1858. I closed my last letter to you at Montreal, since which we have beentravelling so much that I have had no time for writing till to-night. Imust now, therefore, endeavour to resume the thread of my narrative, though it is a little perplexing to do so after going over so muchground as we have done lately in a short space of time. We left Montreal early in the afternoon of the 27th, in company with Mr. And Mrs. Bailey. He is one of the managers of the Grand Trunk Railway, and came with us as far as Quebec, as a sort of guard of honour orescort, papa having been specially commended to the care of the_employés_ on this line. Both he and his wife are English. We crossedthe St. Lawrence in a steam-ferry to join the railway, and as long asit was light we had a most delightful journey through a highlycultivated country, covered with small farms, which came in quicksuccession on both sides of the road. These farms are all the propertyof French Canadians, and on each one there is a wooden dwelling-house, with barns and out-houses attached to it, and the land runs down fromthe front of the tenement to the railroad. There is no hedge to be seenanywhere, and these long strips of fields looked very like allotmentlands in England, though on a larger scale. These proprietors have beenpossessors of the soil from the time of the first settlement of theFrench in Canada, and the farms have suffered from the subdivision ofproperty consequent on the French law of succession. They are so closetogether that, when seen at a distance, the houses look like acontinuous line of street as far as the eye can reach, but we soon lostsight of them in the obscurity occasioned by forests and the approach ofnight. We passed many log huts, which, though very rude, do not seemuncomfortable dwellings. We saw little of the country as we approached Quebec, and were consciousonly of crossing the Chaudière river and of going along its banks forsome way, and afterwards along those of the St. Lawrence, till wereached Point Levi, opposite Quebec. Here we got into a steamer to crossthe river, and from the steamer we had a grand view of the citadel andtown of Quebec, the tin spires shining jointly with the moon and thecomet; for we beg to say we do not require telescopes of high power, aswe see by the papers you do in England, to detect the latter luminary, which really does look here almost as if it added to the light of thenight. Papa and I differ greatly as to the length of its tail. I say itlooks two yards long, but papa says it is difficult to tell this, butthat it is really about a degree and a half in length, or about sixdiameters of the moon. The nucleus is larger and brighter than any starin the Great Bear, and these are all bright here to a degree of whichyou can form no idea. The planets look as large as fourpenny-pieces. Papa has made me reduce them to this estimate, as I originally said aslarge as sixpences; but he questions altogether my appreciation of thesize of the heavenly bodies, which do all seem wonderfully large to myeyes. On reaching the north side of the river, on which Quebec stands, we gotinto an omnibus and drove up streets of a most tremendous ascent; it wasreally quite alarming, as the pavement was in the most dreadful state, and the omnibus, which was very rickety, was crammed with passengers. Next morning we got up very early, and papa went out before breakfast toinquire for the letters which we expected to receive from England, butwhich had not yet arrived. After an early breakfast we went in an open carriage to the Falls ofMontmorency, and I think I never had a more lovely drive. We passedthrough several most prosperous-looking villages, and between farmhouses so closely adjoining each other as to give the appearance of along suburb to the city. At Beauport, about half-way between Quebec andMontmorency, there is a splendid Roman Catholic church, which would docredit to any country. The inhabitants here and at Quebec generally areentirely French Canadians, and the driver here, as at Montreal, wasquite in the Coharé[4] style for intelligence and respectableappearance. The falls of Montmorency are a little way off the road, andthe approach to the top of the fall down a flight of wooden stairs isvery easy. The river here descends in one great fall of 250 feet, and asthe river is 60 feet wide, the proportion between the height and thebreadth of the fall seems nearly perfect. It falls almost into the St. Lawrence, as it tumbles over the very bank of the latter river, and theview up and down the glorious St. Lawrence is here very beautiful. Wewere elevated so far above the bottom of the chasm that the sprayapparently rose up only a short way, but it really does rise upwards of150 feet, and in winter it freezes and forms a cone of ice exceeding 100feet in height, which is said to present a most wonderful appearance. Returning to Quebec we had a splendid view of the town. The fortress onCape Diamond seemed to jut out into the river, along the banks of which, and rising to a great height above it, the town lay in all its glory. The tops of the houses and the spires of the churches are covered withtin, and from the dryness of the atmosphere it looks as fresh andpolished as if just put up. The sun was shining splendidly, and theeffect was almost dazzling. This and the richness of the interveningcountry produced an impression which it would be difficult to effacefrom the memory. The citadel, I should think, is hardly as high as thecastles of Edinburgh or Stirling, but in this country everything (evento the heavenly bodies!!!) is on such a scale that it is not easy todraw comparisons. The guide book, however, says that the rock rises 350feet perpendicularly from the river, so that by looking at some of yourbooks of reference, you may find out which is the highest. The approachis from the town behind, by a zig-zag road, and the fortifications seemvery formidable and considerable, though papa says greatly inferior toGibraltar, or to Malta, which it more strongly resembles as a work ofart. Mr. Baily procured us an order for admission, so that we went to thehighest point, and the view up and down the river was truly magnificent. A little below the town it is divided by an island of considerable size, and as the river takes a bend here, it is rather difficult to make outits exact course. The town is situated at the junction of the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles, and as the latter forms a large bay orestuary at the confluence, the whole has a very lake-like appearance. We left the citadel at the gate opposite the one at which we entered, and getting out upon the plains of Abraham, saw the monument erected onthe spot where Wolfe fell; close to it is an old well from which waterwas brought to him to relieve his thirst after he had received hismortal wound. Another monument is erected within the citadel, in whatis called the Governor's Garden. This is raised to the joint memories ofWolfe and the French general, Montcalm, who was also mortally wounded inthe same action. From the plains of Abraham there is a beautiful view upthe river, and here, as on the other side of the town, the country at adistance is studded with farm houses. In a circuit we made of two orthree miles in the vicinity of the town, we passed a number of reallysplendid villas belonging to English residents, but with this exceptionall seemed much more French than English, excepting that in _la vieilleFrance_ we never saw such order, cleanliness, and comfort, nor couldthese be well surpassed in any country. The small farmers here live entirely upon the produce of their farms;they knit their own stockings, and weave their own grey coarse cloth. Welooked into several of their houses, and the extreme cleanliness ofevery little corner of their dwellings was wonderful. The children seemvery healthy and robust-looking. The whole population talk French. Thecrosses by the roadside proclaim them to be Roman Catholics, and theextensive convents in the town tend doubtless to the promotion of thetemporal comforts of the poorer inhabitants. The principal church wasrichly decorated with gilding up to the roof, and the gold, from thedryness of the climate, was as bright as if newly laid on. The extreme clearness of the air of Canada contributed, no doubt, greatly to the beauty of everything we saw, though we found the coldthat accompanied it rather sharper than we liked. Mrs. Baily told methat it is a curious sight to see the market in the winter, everythingbeing sold in a frozen state. The vegetables are dug up in the beginningof winter, and are kept in cellars and from thence brought to market. Amonth's consumption can be bought at a time, without the provisionsspoiling, as all remains frozen till it is cooked. The sheep and pigsare seen standing, as if alive, but in a thoroughly frozen state. Thewinter lasts from November till April. Sleighing is the universal andonly mode of travelling. The sleighs, which are very gay, are coveredwith bells, and the travellers in them are usually clothed in expensivefurs. Pic-nics are carried on in the winter, to arrange which committeesare formed, each member inviting his friends till the parties oftennumber 100. They then hire a large room for dancing, and the guestsdress themselves in their ball dresses, and then envelope themselves intheir furs, and start at six in the evening for their ball, frequentlydriving in their sleighs for several miles by moonlight to the place ofrendezvous. Open sleighs are almost always used for evening parties, andapparently without any risk, although the evening dress is put on beforestarting. There is great danger without care of being frost-bittenduring a Canadian winter, but it must be a very gay and pretty sight tosee sleighs everywhere, and all seem to enjoy the winter much, thoughthe cold is very intense. We left Quebec early in the afternoon of the 28th, having called at thepost-office on our way to the train, and got our English letters. We nowpassed during the day what we missed seeing the night before, on ourapproach to Quebec. In crossing the Chaudière we could see the placewhere this large river plunges over a perpendicular rock 130 feet high, and the river being here very broad, the falls must be very fine, butthough we passed close above them, we could only distinguish thedifference of level between the top and the bottom, and see the cloud ofspray rising above the whole. The road till night-fall passed chieflythrough forest lands. The stations were good, though sometimes verysmall, and at one of the smallest the station-master was the son of anEnglish clergyman. At Richmond we parted company with the Bailys and got on to IslandPond, where we slept at a large and most comfortable hotel. FromRichmond the road passes through a very pretty country, but its beautieswere lost upon us, as the night was very dark and there was no moon. This also caused us to miss seeing the beauties of Island Pond on ourarrival there, but we were fully repaid by the sight which greeted oureyes in the morning, when we looked out of our window. The Americanscertainly have grand notions of things, this Island Pond being a lake ofconsiderable dimensions studded with beautiful islands, and surroundedon all sides by finely wooded hills, up which the heavy mist rose halfway, presenting the appearance we have so often seen in Switzerland, ofhills apparently rising out of a frozen ocean. The mist too, coveringthe surface of the water, gave it a snow-like look, and altogether thesight was very lovely. The road from this to Gorham was mostinteresting, being down the course of the Androscoggan river through avery wide valley, with high hills on both sides. We left the train at the Alpine House at Gorham, to take a peep at theWhite Mountains. We were kept waiting some little time at Gorham, whilethe wheels of the _buggy_, that was to take us to the foot of MountWashington, were being examined. This vehicle was a sort ofdouble-bodied pony chair, of a very rickety description, the front seatbeing contrived to turn over, so as to make more room for those at theback to get in and out, the consequence was that it was always disposed, even with papa's weight upon it, to turn over, and throw him upon thehorses' tails. Thrower and I sat behind, and papa and the driver in thefront, and I held on tightly by the back, which had the double advantageof keeping me in, and of preventing his tumbling out. We had two capitalhorses, and were driven for eight miles by the side of a mountaintorrent called by the unromantic name of the Peabody River. The woodsthrough which we passed were extremely pretty, and the torrent was ourcompanion throughout the drive. The road was of the roughest possibledescription, over large boulders and up and down hills. The only wonderwas, that we were not tossed out of our carriage and into the torrent. The leaves were beginning to turn, and some of the foliage was extremelybeautiful, particularly that of the moosewood, the large leaf of whichturns to a rich mulberry colour. We picked several of them to dry. On reaching the Glen House, we found ourselves in front of a very largehotel, standing in an amphitheatre of mountains. These are called bythe names of the presidents, Washington, Monroe, Adams, Jefferson, andMadison. Washington is 6500 feet high, and seven others, which form acontinuous line of peaks, are higher than Ben Nevis. Although snow hasfallen this year, they seem free from snow just now, but they all have awhite appearance from the greyish stone of which they are formed, andhence the name of the White Mountains. We went a short way up the ascentto Mount Washington, and judging from this beginning, the road up themountain must be very beautiful. For two-thirds of the height they arecovered with splendid forest trees. When, at this season, the leaves arechanging in places to a deep crimson, the effect is very fine. The upperpart of these mountains seems to consist of barren rocks. We returnedand dined at the Alpine House. Both papa and I were seriously frightenedin our walks, especially at the Glen House, by encountering threesavage-looking bears. Luckily before we had shouted for help, wediscovered they were chained, but the first being exactly in a path wewere trying to walk along, really alarmed us. We left Gorham for Portland at about four o'clock. The road the greaterpart of the way is perfectly beautiful. It continued along the courseof the Androscoggan, with the White Mountains on one side, and with arange, which to our eyes appeared quite as high, on the other. When weleft the river, the road was diversified by passing several large lakes, one of which, called Bryant's Pond, resembled Island Pond in beauty. _October 1st. _--We got up betimes yesterday to see Portland, which itwas too late to do to any purpose on the evening of our arrival. Papadelivered his letter to Mr. Miller, the agent here of the Grand TrunkRailway, and he accompanied us on the heights, from which we were ableto look down upon the town and its noble harbour--the finest in theUnited States. As it is here that the Leviathan is destined to come ifshe ever does cross the Atlantic, they have, at a great expense, made awharf to receive her. The harbour is entirely land-locked and studdedwith islands. The day was very fine, but not so clear as the day before, or we should have seen the White Mountains, which are clearly visiblefrom this, although sixty miles distant in a right line. The city isvery beautiful, and, like all the New England towns, most clean and wellconditioned. Each street is embellished by avenues of elm trees of alarger size than we have yet seen in America, with the exception ofthose in the park of Boston. We had here an opportunity of witnessing a very pretty sight, which wasthe exercising of the Fire Companies, of which there are nine in thistown. Each Company had an engine as clean and bright as if it had justcome out of the maker's hands, and the firemen attached to them weredressed in uniforms, each of a different colour. Long ropes werefastened to these engines, by which the men drew them along. To eachengine there was also attached a brigade of men, wearing helmets, andfire-proof dresses. They seemed altogether a fine body of men. We didnot wait to see the result of the trial, as to which engine could pumpfurthest, which, with a reward of $100 to be given to the successfulengine, was the object of their practising. These Fire Companies seem tobe a great "Institution" everywhere in the United States, the troop atNew York having figured greatly in the Cable rejoicings. The companiesof different towns are in the habit of paying visits to each other, whengreat fêtes take place, and much good-fellowship is shown. Fires arevery frequent in the great towns, but the means of extinguishing themmust be great in proportion, judging from what we have seen here. Thesecompanies are said to be very well organised, and as they act as apolice also, very little pilfering takes place. Mr. Miller afterwardstook us to a part of the suburbs to show us some very pretty villas, with gardens more cared for than any we have yet seen. We left Portland in the afternoon. There are two railways from Portlandto Boston, and we selected the lower or sea-coast road. The country wasnot very pretty, the shore being flat, but as we approached the seaportsof Portsmouth, Newburyport, and Salem, the views improved, especially inthe neighbourhood of Portsmouth, which stands on a neck of land juttingfar into the sea. There was a great deal of hay standing on meadowswhich were flooded by the sea water; to protect the stacks, they werebuilt upon platforms supported by stone pillars, which had a curiouseffect. The crops seemed very abundant, for the stacks were large andclose together and spread over a wide area. The quality of this saltedhay is said to be good, and the animals like it very much. We got to Boston late last night, and to-day papa paid a long visit toJudge Curtis, and we went afterwards on a railway, drawn by horses, tosee the famous Harvard University, in the town of Cambridge, which liesabout four miles to the west of Boston. When Mr. Jared Sparkes, thelate president, was in England, papa, at Mr. Morgan's request, gave himletters to Cambridge, and upon the strength of this we called on him andwere most graciously received by Mrs. Sparkes, who entertained us tillMr. Sparkes returned from Boston. He is a very pleasing and intelligentman; before parting they gave us letters to Professor Silliman, of thesister University of Yale, at New Haven. We met here too Mr. And Mrs. Stevens, who accompanied us back to Boston, and loaded us withintroductions to the same place. The town of Cambridge occupies a good deal of ground, for the so-calledstreets are avenues of beautiful trees, with villas interspersed betweenthem. In an open space in the centre of the town, there is a mostmagnificent tree, called the Washington Elm, noted, not only for itssize, but for its being historically connected with Washington. There isa large library belonging to the college; and the college is in everyway very flourishing; but as we mean to return here again, we did notthink it worth while now to see it in detail. [5] _October 2nd. _--Papa went last night to a meeting, which is held everynight for prayer, at the Young Men's Christian Association, and wasextremely pleased with what he saw and heard. He was there for half anhour before the prayers began. These lasted from nine till ten. Papa wasplaced in the seat of honour, in a chair beside the President, and wasasked by him to address the meeting; but he got out of it by saying thathe came to listen and not to speak, and added only a few words on thegreat interest with which these revivals in America were looked upon inEngland. He was very much interested with the whole of the proceedings, which were conducted with extreme moderation and right feeling. To-day we made an early start, and at first went over the ground whichwe travelled when we left Boston for Niagara; but instead of leaving theConnecticut river at Springfield, as we did on that occasion, wefollowed its course to Hartford, and finally came on to New Haven, fromwhich place I am now writing. We arrived at two o'clock, and, after getting some food, called onProfessor Silliman, who took us over the University, and showed us themuseum, where there are some wonderful foot-prints on slabs of rock, which have been found in this country. There is also here one of thelargest meteoric stones that is known. In the library there are manybooks which were given to it by Bishop Berkeley, whose memory seems asmuch respected here as it is at Newport. _October 3rd. _--Professor Silliman called on us this morning at teno'clock, and brought with him Mr. Sheffield, an influential person inthis neighbourhood, and a great patron of the University. As Mr. Sheffield was an Episcopalian, he took us to his church, where we hearda most striking sermon, and afterwards received the Communion. Thenumber of communicants was very large. We are very much struck at seeinghow well Sunday is observed in America. There are about thirty churchesin New Haven, and they are all, we are told, well filled. These churchesare of various denominations; but there seems a total want of anythinglike a parochial system. Papa went afterwards to the College chapel, or rather church, where theyoung men attached to the University were assembled in the body of thebuilding. Papa was in the gallery, which is appropriated to theProfessors and their families. There are no less than forty-oneProfessors at Yale, including those of theology, law, and medicine, which are all studied here. The sciences take greatly the lead over the classics. When we remarkedto Professor Silliman how great the proportion of scientific Professorsseemed to be, he said the practical education which was given in thiscountry, rendered this more necessary than in England, where men havemore time and leisure for literary pursuits. This is no doubt the case, and in this country the devotion of every one's time and talents tomoney-making is much to be regretted, for it is the non-existence of ahighly educated class that tends to keep down the general tone ofsociety here, by not affording any standard to look up to. It is curiouswhat a depressing effect is caused in our minds by the equality we seeevery where around us; it is very similar to what we lately felt when onthe shores of their vast lakes, --tideless, and therefore lifeless, whencompared to the sea with its ever-varying heights. If I may carry thisidea further, I might say there is another point of resemblance betweenthe physical and moral features of the country, inasmuch as when thewaters of these lakes of theirs are stirred up and agitated by storms, they are both more noisy and more dangerous than those of the realocean. New Haven is considered to be the most beautiful town in America, and itis marvellously beautiful. The elm is a very fine tree on thiscontinent. It is of a peculiar kind, rising to a great height beforeany branches shoot out, thus producing large overhanging branches like acandelabrum. It is common in all American towns, but this is called bypre-eminence the City of Elms. There are broad avenues in everydirection, the branches of the trees meeting across and forming shadywalks on the hottest day. The shops, relatively to the size of the town, are as good as any wehave seen in the larger cities. Next to the booksellers' shops, or bookstores as they call them, the most striking, if they are not the moststriking of all, are the chemists' shops, which abound here aselsewhere. They are of enormous size, and are kept in perfect order, though the marvel is lessened when the variety of their contents isconsidered, this being of a very miscellaneous description, chieflyperfumery, at all events not restricted to drugs. Hat stores and bootstores are very numerous, and labels of "Misses' Hats" and "Gents' Pantsfixed to patterns, " are put up in the windows. In the afternoon Professor Silliman took papa a long walk in thecountry, and geologised him among basaltic rocks of great beauty; and inpassing through the woods, they made a grand collection of red leaves. Ihad, during this walk, been deposited with Mrs. Silliman, and weremained and drank tea with them. The professor's father, alsoProfessor Silliman, a most energetic gentleman, upwards of eighty yearsold, came to meet us, as did Professor Dana and one or two others, including the gentleman who preached to the boys. I cannot get papa totell me how he preached, and must draw my own conclusion from hissilence. He will only admit that the pew was very comfortable and thecushion soft, and as he was kept awake all last night by mosquitoes, theinference to be drawn is not difficult. I have since been employed inarranging my leaves in a blotting-book, which I got at Boston for thatpurpose, and as it is late must close this for to-night. _New York, October 4th. _--We left New Haven this morning and arrivedhere this afternoon. The intermediate country along the northern shoreof Long Island Sound is very interesting. We crossed a great many riverswhich in England would be deemed large ones, at the mouths of which werepretty villages, but we passed so rapidly that we had scarcely time todo more than catch a glimpse of them. As the mail leaves to-morrow, Imust conclude this. FOOTNOTES: [4] Our driver, some years ago, at Pau. [5] We, unfortunately, never had an opportunity of returning toCambridge. LETTER VI. DESTRUCTION OF THE CRYSTAL PALACE. --PHILADELPHIA. --CEMETERY. --GIRARD COLLEGE. --BALTIMORE. --AMERICAN LITURGY. --RETURN TO PHILADELPHIA. --PENITENTIARY. --RETURN TO NEW YORK. New York, 12th Oct. 1858. We have seen comparatively so little since I last wrote to you, that Ihave hesitated about sending by this mail any account of our travels;but I believe, upon the whole, it may be as well to give you an accountof our movements up to this time. My last letter would tell you of our arrival at this place. The eveningwas so fine, that papa and I were induced to go to the Crystal Palace. Although very inferior to ours at Sydenham, it was interesting as beingfilled with an immense variety of farming implements, which had beenbrought together for the great annual agricultural show. There were alsolarge collections of sewing machines, hydraulic presses, and steamengines, besides collections of smaller articles, watches, jewellery, &c. ; and a great many statues, including the original models ofThorwaldsen's colossal group of our Saviour and the Apostles. The placewas brilliantly lighted up, and the effect was very striking. Next day papa was returning home and saw a dense cloud of smoke hangingover the town; and on approaching the spot, found the poor palace andall its contents a thing of the past; one minaret only being left of thebuilding. The whole had been consumed by fire in _ten minutes_; so rapidwas the progress of the flames from the time of their first burstingout, that in that short space of time the dome had fallen in; andwonderful to say, though there were more than 2000 people, chiefly womenand children, in the building when the alarm was given, the whole ofthem escaped uninjured. We waited on in New York till Friday the 8th, vainly hoping to heartidings of William; although by a letter received from him a day or twobefore, he said he should probably be at Baltimore on Saturday. Withthis uncertainty hanging over his plans, we determined on going there;and on Friday night got as far as Philadelphia by the Camden and AmboyRailway, through a country far from pretty, compared with what we havebeen accustomed to. Philadelphia is situated between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, atabout six miles above the junction of the two rivers. In order to reachthe town we had to cross the Delaware, which we did in a steamer of hugeproportions. It was getting dark when we landed at Philadelphia; and wewere much struck with the large and broad streets and well-lightedshops. It is said of New York, that the winding lanes and streets in theold part of the town, originated in the projectors of the city havingdecided to build their first houses along paths which had beenestablished by the cattle when turned into the woods. The projectors ofPhiladelphia have certainly avoided this error, if error it was; forthere the streets throughout the city are as regular as the squares of achess board, which a map of the city much resembles. The streets extendfrom one river to the other. We got up next morning betimes; and as it is our intention to see thetown more thoroughly hereafter, we took advantage of a lovely day (butwhat day is not here beautiful) to see a cemetery situated upon a bendof the Schuylkill. It is very extensive; for they have so much elbowroom in this country that they can afford to have things on a largescale; and everything here partook of this feature. The plots of groundallotted to each family were capacious squares, ornamented with flowers, surrounded by white marble balustrades, and large enough to containseparate tombstones, often inside walks, and sometimes even ironarm-chairs and sofas. The monuments were all of white marble, of whichmaterial there seems here to be a great abundance, and none of them wereoffensive in their style, but on the contrary were in general in thatgood taste, which the Americans in some way or other, how we cannot makeout, contrive to possess. We went afterwards to see the famous Girard College, for the educationof orphan boys. Mr. Girard bequeathed two millions of dollars to foundit, and his executors have built a massive marble palace, quiteunsuited, it struck us, to the purpose for which it was intended; andthe education we are told, is unsuited likewise to the station in lifeof the boys who are brought up in it. As in most public institutions forthe purposes of education in this country, no direct religiousinstruction is given. This does not seem in general to proceed from anywant of appreciation of its importance, but is owing to the difficulty, where there is no predominant creed, of giving instruction in any: butin the case of the Girard institution, even this excuse for theomission cannot be made, for a stipulation was imposed by Mr. Girard inhis will, that no minister of any denomination should ever enter itswalls, even as a visitor, though this, we understand is not carried out. For the first time in America we met here with a most taciturn official, and could learn much less than we wished of the manner in which theinstitution is managed. On Saturday the 9th, being the same afternoon, we went on to Baltimore, and were perplexed at not finding letters from William; but to our greatrelief he made his appearance in the evening, much pleased with histravels. The country from Philadelphia to Baltimore, like that which we passedthrough on the preceding day, is much less interesting than the countryto the north of New York; but a grand feature of the road we travelledwas the Susquehanna River, which is here very broad, and which wecrossed in a large steamer, leaving the train we were in, and joininganother which was in readiness on the other side. The point at which wecrossed the river, was at the spot where it falls into the Chesapeake. The shores of this beautiful bay are profusely indented with arms orestuaries, the heads of which, as well as the mouths of severaltributary rivers, we repeatedly crossed on long bridges: this affordeda great variety in the scenery, and much enlivened the last part of ourjourney. Next day being Sunday, we heard an admirable sermon from Dr. Cox. Thechurch in which he preached was a large and handsome one, and theservice was well performed. In describing the service at West Point, Imentioned that it differed in some respects from our own. We have nowhad frequent opportunities of becoming acquainted with the Americanliturgy; and, as it will interest some of you at home, I may as welltell you a little in what those differences consist, with which we weremost forcibly struck. Some alterations were of course rendered necessary by the establishmentof a republic, but these seem to have been confined as far as possibleto what the occasion called for. I think, however, in spite of theirrepublicanism, they might have retained the Scriptural expression, "Kingof Kings, and Lord of Lords, " instead of changing it to the inflated, "High and Mighty Ruler of the Universe. " This reminded us of the doubtraised by some, when Queen Victoria came to the throne, if the wordsought not then to have been changed to "King of Queens. " It is pleasing, however, to observe how small the variations in general are, if indeedthere be any, which are at variance with either the doctrine or thediscipline of the Church of England. We are so much accustomed to the opening sentences of our own Liturgy, "When the wicked man turneth away from the wickedness that he hathcommitted, " &c. , that their opening words startled us at first; buttheir two or three initiatory sentences are well selected to begin theservice; the first being, "The Lord is in his holy temple: let all theearth keep silence before him. " Some of the alterations are improvements rather than blemishes, for theconstant repetitions in our service are avoided. The Lord's prayer isless frequently repeated, and the collect for the day, when it has to beread in the Communion Service, is omitted where it first occurs with us. A little more freedom of choice, too, is allowed to the minister inseveral parts of the service. For example: the Apostle's Creed or theNicene Creed may be substituted for each other, as the latter is notused in the office for the Communion; and instead of reading the Psalteras divided into days in the daily service, some very good selectionsfrom the Psalms are made, which may be substituted either on the weekdays, or on Sundays. The daily Lessons are shortened, and yet all theportions read by us, out of the Canonical Scriptures, are retained, which is managed by omitting all the Lessons taken from the Apocrypha. The second lessons on Sundays are specially appointed as well as thefirst, and not made to depend, as with us, on the day of the month. The Commination Service for Ash Wednesday is omitted, only the twoprayers at the end being retained; these are read after the Litany. TheAthanasian Creed is never used. Some of the verbal alterations, however, grated harshly on our ears. They are of course obliged to pray for the President, but instead of thepetition to "grant him in health and wealth long to live, " they havesubstituted the word "prosperity" for the good old Saxon "wealth, " forfear, apparently, of being misunderstood by it to mean dollars. Theyseem too, to have a remarkable aversion to all _them thats_, alwayssubstituting the words _those who_. But the peculiarity which pleased usmost in the American service, was that, instead of the few words ofintercession introduced into our Litany, "especially those for whom ourprayers are desired, " there are distinct and very beautiful prayers forthe different circumstances under which the prayers of the congregationmay be asked; as for example in sickness, or affliction, or going tosea, &c. There is, also, a special form of prayer for the visitation ofprisoners, and one of thanksgiving after the harvest, also offices forthe consecration of churches, and for the institution of ministers tochurches; and some excellent forms of prayers authorised by the churchto be used in families. These seem the chief alterations, excepting thatthe Communion Service differs very much from ours; the oblation andinvocation, which I believe are used in the Scotch service, beingintroduced into theirs. To the whole is added, in their prayer books, amost excellent selection of psalms and hymns, in which one is glad torecognise almost all those which we admire most in our own hymn books. But, after this long digression, to return to my journal. After theservice, Mr. Morgan, who had accompanied us to Baltimore with hisdaughter, introduced us to Dr. Cox, and we were invited by him to returnon Thursday to a great missionary meeting, which is to be held inBaltimore; but this, I am afraid, we shall hardly accomplish. In goingand returning from church, we saw a good deal of the city. It is builtupon slopes and terraces, which gives it a most picturesque appearance. It is indeed generally reputed to be the most beautiful city in theUnited States, and from the number of monuments it contains, it has beencalled the "Monumental City. " The principal structure of this kind isthe Washington monument, situated on a large open area, and upwards oftwo hundred feet high. It is entirely constructed of white marble, andhas a colossal statue of Washington on the top. The town is built on thebanks of the Patapsco, about fourteen miles from where its flows intothe Chesapeake. It is navigable here for large ships, and presents oneof those enormous expanses of water, which form a constant subject ofdispute between papa and William, as to whether they are rivers, lakes, or estuaries. Large as the expanse of water is, the distance from thesea is at least 200 miles, and the water is quite fresh. We returned yesterday with William to Philadelphia, and went to see thefamous water-works, which supply the town with water from theSchuylkill. The water is thrown up by forcing-pumps to large reservoirsabove; the surrounding grounds are very pretty, and the whole is madeinto a fashionable promenade, which commands a fine view of the city. Weafterwards went to the penitentiary, which has a world-wide renown fromits being the model of many which have been built in England andelsewhere. The solitary system is maintained, the prisoners never beingallowed to see each other, nor could we see them. One poor man had beenin confinement sixteen years out of twenty, to which he had beencondemned. Any one remembering Dickens's account of this prison, mustshudder at the recollection of it, and it was sad to feel oneself in themidst of a place of such sorrow. When here a few days ago, we had leftour letters of introduction for Mr. Starr. He called to-day, and gavePapa some interesting information about the revivals. He takes greatinterest in the young _gamins_, whom I have described as "pedlering" inthe railway cars, selling newspapers and cheap periodicals; they are anumerous class, and often sharp little fellows. Mr. Starr takes muchpains in trying to improve their moral and religious characters. But Ihave no time at present for more. We returned to New York to-day, andare passing our last evening with William, who is to sail earlyto-morrow, and will be the bearer of this letter. LETTER VII. WILLIAM'S DEPARTURE. --GREENWOOD CEMETERY. --JOURNEY TO WASHINGTON. --ARRANGEMENTS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE FAR WEST. --TOPSY. Washington, 16th Oct. 1858. I closed my last letter to you on the 12th, and gave it to William totake to you. On the following day we bade him a sorrowful farewell, madeall the more melancholy by the day being very rainy, which prevented ourseeing him on board. We so very rarely see rain, that when it comes itis most depressing to our spirits, without any additional cause forlamentation; but it never lasts beyond a day, and is always succeeded bya renewal of most brilliant weather. To console ourselves next day, although papa said it was an odd sourceof consolation, we went to see the Greenwood Cemetery, which is one ofthe four remaining sights of New York, the fifth, the Crystal Palace, being, as I wrote to you, burnt down. The cemetery, however, proved agreat "_sell_, " as William would have called it; for it is not to becompared to the one at Philadelphia; and instead of the beautiful whitemarble, surrounding each family plot, we found grey stone, or, stillmore commonly, a cast iron rail. Moreover, it had to be reached by anendless series of steamer-ferries and tramways, which, though they didnot consume much money (under 1_s. _ a head), occupied a great deal moretime than the thing was worth. The excursion, however, gave us anopportunity of seeing the town of Brooklyn, which, though insignificant, in point of size, as compared with New York, has nearly as manyinhabitants as either Boston or Baltimore, and numbers more than twicethose in the town from which I now write. We left New York yesterday, end slept at Philadelphia. When we wentthere last week, the first thirty miles of our route was across the Bayof New York, in a steamer, and, on our return, we came the whole way byrail; but there is a third line, which we took on this occasion, calledthe New Jersey Line, by which we went as far as Burlington by rail, andthence a distance of nineteen miles in a steamboat down the Delaware. Itwas splendid moonlight, and the town of Philadelphia, which stretchesalong the banks of the river for nearly five miles, was well lighted, and the river being crowded with ships, the whole effect was verypretty. It is marvellous how well they manage these huge steam-boats. They comenoiselessly up to the pier without the least shock in touching it, andit is almost impossible to know when one has left the boat and reached_terra firma_, so close do they bring the vessel up to the wharf. Thewhole process is directed by a man at the wheel, and regulated by soundof bell. There is a perfect absence of all yells, and cries, and strongexpressions, so common in a French steamer, and not unfrequent in anEnglish one. We arrived too late at Philadelphia to be able to do much that evening, and this morning, we started early for Baltimore, _en route_ for thisplace. We had two very pleasant and communicative fellow-travellers, onea coal merchant, who resides at Wilmington, the capital of Delaware, theother a Quaker, a retired merchant from Philadelphia, who gave us a gooddeal of information about some of the institutions and charities of thatplace. He stood up much for the Girard College, and justified theenormous cost of the building, by saying it was meant as a monument tothe founder. He made a very good defence of the solitary system, which Imentioned in my last as existing in the penitentiary, and we werebeginning to think him a very wise "Friend, " when he broke out on themerits of Phonography, which, by his account, seems to have made muchprogress in America, and he has asked us to call on Mr. Pitman, theirgreat authority on that subject, at Cincinnati. The old gentleman's namewas Sharpless, and it deserves to be recorded in this journal, he beingthe only American we have heard take anything like a high tone upon thesubject of slavery. He gave us the names of some books upon the subject, which we, in the innocence of our hearts, have been asking for inBaltimore and here, forgetting that we are now in those states where itforms a happy (?) feature in their domestic institutions. As we were about to part, the old gentleman addressed us both, andturning to me, said, "I must tell thee how well it was in thee to comeout to this country with thy husband, and not to let him come alone. Aman should never allow himself to be separated from a good wife, andthou doest well, both of thee, to keep together. " To which complimentaryspeech I replied, that I had made it the one stipulation in giving myconsent to papa's crossing the ocean that I should accompany him; and Iconfessed that I little thought at the time that I should be taken atmy word, or that our berths would be engaged the following day; buthoped rather, by such stipulation, to prevent his going altogether. Iadded that if all went well with our family at home, as I trusted itwould, I had no reason to do otherwise than be very glad I had come. Wearrived here at last. The Americans are very proud of their country. But, oh! it would do them all good to see this blessed Washington, whichfew of them do, except their Senators and Members of Congress, andothers connected with government. Well may Dickens term it "the city ofmagnificent intentions. " Such ambitious aspirings to make a great city!Such streets marked out; twice or three times the width of PortlandPlace! and scarcely anything completed, with the exception of somepublic buildings, which, to do them justice, are not only on amagnificent scale, but very beautiful. I shall, however, delay myaccount of Washington till we have seen more of it, as we stay here tillMonday afternoon, when we return to Baltimore so as to allow us to makea start for the West on Tuesday. We are to travel quite _en prince_, over the Ohio and Baltimorerailroad, one of the most wonderful of all American railways. At NewYork we had introductions given us to request the officials of thisline to allow us to travel on the engine, or on the cowcatcher if wepreferred it! either of which would undoubtedly have given us a fairopportunity of viewing the scenery; but papa saw to-day, at Baltimore, the managing director, who has arranged for the principal engineer to gowith us, and he is to take us in the director's car, which we are tohave to ourselves, and this gentleman, Mr. Tyson, is to let us stopwhenever we have a fancy to do so. We are to go fast or slow as we mayprefer. We are to start on Tuesday morning, at the tail of the expresstrain, and we have only to give the signal when our car will bedetached. There are only two or three trains daily for passengers; butthere are goods' and extra trains for various purposes, which areconstantly running at different speeds on the road. It is by reattachingourselves to any of these, that we can, when we like, effect all this, and have an opportunity of seeing, in the most leisurely manner, andwithout any detriment to the other passengers, the various parts of theroad that may be worth exploring. The line is very beautiful, and I hopeMr. Tyson will be prepared for my frequently stopping him when I seetrees, with their splendid red leaves that I may wish particularly togather. We are to take our food in this carriage, if necessary, andhave beds made up in it, so as to make us quite independent of inns, andwe may pass as many days as we like upon the road. We are to do thisbecause, though some of the hotels are good, we may not find them at theexact places where we wish to stop. Papa has no connection with thisroad, and it must be American appreciation of his virtues which has ledthe officials to deal with us in this luxurious way. On Tuesday the 19th inst. , therefore, we make our real start for theWest, and shall probably the first night reach Harper's Ferry, a placewhich President Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia, " which you willfind in papa's library, said, was "one of the most stupendous scenes innature, and well worth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness;" andthis was written when these voyages were not so easily accomplished asthey are now. But this railway has opened up scenery which was not knownto Jefferson, and is said far to surpass, in beauty, even thiscelebrated Harper's Ferry; but of this we shall soon be able to judgefor ourselves. _October 18th. _--This must be posted to-day before we lionise thisplace, so I shall reserve all I have to say about Washington till mynext, and shall fill up this page with a description of a real live"Topsy" slave, with whom we have made acquaintance here. She isfourteen, the property of an old Miss D. We noticed her yesterdaystanding about in the passage, and asked her if she belonged to thehotel, and she said no, that she belonged to Miss D. We said, quiteseriously, as we now always do to blacks and whites of the lower orders, "Where were you raised?" The creature answered us quietly, "InVirginny. " She is a full, well grown girl, with a large bushy crop ofwool on her head; a pleasant, large, round intelligent face, that isalmost pretty. The young niggers have very little of the real negro castof countenance, and the little boys and girls about the streets arereally pretty, and almost loveable looking; while the elders, especiallythe females, are hideous to behold, and are only to be tolerated, inpoint of looks, when they wear coloured turbans. When I see one adornedin a bonnet at the back of her head, with a profusion, inside, of thebrightest artificial flowers, a bright vulgar shawl and dress, and anenormous hoop, with very narrow petticoats, I always wish to rush home, light a large bonfire, and throw into the flames every article ofornamental dress that I possess. But to return to dear Topsy. We asked her if she were a slave, feelingvery backward to put so trying a question to her; but she answered withthe utmost simplicity, that she was, just as if we had asked her if shewere from France or Germany. In reply to our questions, she said thather father and mother were slaves; that she has several younger brothersand sisters; that Miss D. Is very rich. "'Spect she has above a hundredslaves;" and that she is very kind to them all. "Can you read?" "No;Miss D. Has often tried to teach me, but I never could learn. 'Spect Iam too large to learn now. " We lectured her about this, and gave her SirEdward Parry's favourite advice, to "try again. " I then asked her if shewent to church. "No, never. " "Does Miss D. ?" "Mighty seldom. " "Do youknow who made you?" "Yes, God. " "Do you ever pray?" "No, never; used to, long ago; but, " with a most sanctimonious drawl, "feel such a burdenlike, when I try to kneel down, that I can't. " This was such agratuitous imitation of what she must have heard the _goody_[6] niggerssay, that I felt sorely disposed to give her young black ears a soundboxing, for supposing such a piece of acting could impose upon us. However, leaving the dark ears alone, I urged the duty of prayer uponher, as strongly and simply as I could, and made her promise to kneeldown every night and morning and pray. She had heard of Christ, andrepeated some text (again a quotation, no doubt, from the _goody_niggers) about his death; but she did not know, on further examination, who He is, nor what death He died. She said Miss D. Read to them all, every Sunday; but probably not in a very instructive manner. She saidher name was Almira. I gave her Miss Marsh's "Light for the Line, " whichhappened to be the only book I had by me which was at all suitable, andtold her to get it read to her, and that I was sorry I had nothing elseto give her; but I shall try this morning to get her an alphabet, inorder to encourage her to make another attempt to learn to read. Atparting last night, I spoke as solemnly as I could to her, and told herwe should probably never meet again in this world, but that we should besure to meet hereafter, at the judgment seat of God, and I entreated herto remember the advice I had given her. As we do not know Miss D. , who is a very deaf old lady, staying here, like ourselves, for a day or two, our conferences with young Topsy havebeen necessarily very short, and constantly interrupted by Miss D. 'scoming past us, and wanting her; but we should like very much to buyAlmira, and bring her home to make a nursery maid of her, and teach herall she ought to know, and "'spect" after all she is not "too large" tolearn, poor young slave! It was pleasant, in our first colloquy of thekind, to talk to such an innocent specimen of a slave. I mean innocent, as respects her ignorance of the horrors of slavery, of which sheevidently had not even the faintest idea. I asked her what she did forMiss D. ? "Dresses her, does her room, and _fixes her up_ altogether. "The real, original Topsy is no doubt a most correctly drawn character, judging by this specimen. And now adieu; you shall have a furtherchapter on Washington next time. FOOTNOTE: [6] I have tried, in vain, to alter this word, which is one coined athome, and used by the family, but cannot find a substitute for it. Lest, however, it be misunderstood, I must explain that it is applied inreference to the truly good and pious among our friends; as the word"saints, " ought to be, had not that term been unhappily associated withthe ridiculous, and a false pretension to religion. LETTER VIII. WASHINGTON. --BAPTIST CLASS-MEETING. --PUBLIC BUILDINGS. --VENUS BY DAYLIGHT. --BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILWAY. --WHEELING. --ARRIVAL AT COLUMBUS. Washington, 18th Oct. 1858. I despatched my last to you the day before yesterday, and now must giveyou an account of our employments yesterday (Sunday, 17th instant). Themorning was very hot, and very lovely, with a clear blue sky, and Iwished that impertinent young lady, Emily, could see what sort ofweather we have here, and how her good wishes for us are accomplished, beyond anything she can suppose; for we can barely support the heat inthe middle of the day. The weather being so lovely, we set off to a church in Georgetown, asuburb of Washington, where many of the foreign ministers live, and avery pretty suburb it is; but when we got there, papa's head began toache so much, that we thought it best to return to a church nearer thehotel, so that if he became worse, he might leave the church, and walkhome. We were able, however, to sit out the service, and heard a verydull sermon from a young missionary, who was to sail, two daysafterwards, with his wife, from Baltimore, for Africa; his sermon wasgreatly taken from Livingstone's book, and he spoke more stronglyagainst slavery than we should have looked for in a slave state. Afterthe sermon, papa and I went to him, and we asked him a little aboutwhere he was going, &c. &c. He scarcely seemed to know, acknowledged hewas but little acquainted with the work he had before him, and, finally, when papa put a piece of gold into his hand, he looked at it, and askedwhether it was for himself or the Mission. We answered with some degreeof inward surprise, that it was for any useful object connected with it, and we took leave of him, wishing him God-speed, but lamenting that amore efficient man was not going out. Papa became much more head-achy during the day. Mr. Erskine called tosee if we wanted anything, and strongly advised my going to a negrochapel in the evening, and hearing one of the blacks preach. They aremostly Methodists, that is Wesleyans, or Baptists. He said I should hearthem singing as I passed the doors, and could go in. Poor papa, by thistime, was fit for nothing except to remain quiet, so Thrower and I setout in the evening, and found, not without some difficulty, an upperroom, brilliantly lighted, over a grocer's warehouse. We went up twopairs of stairs, and I did so in fear and trembling, remembering whatthe odour is when a large dining-room is filled with black waiters: asort of sickly, sour smell pervades the room, that makes one hate thethought, either of dinner, or of the poor niggers themselves. It seemsit is inherent in their skin; to my surprise and satisfaction, however, we found nothing of the kind in this room, the windows of which had beenwell opened beforehand. It was a large, whitewashed apartment, halffilled with blacks. We were the only whites present; there were benches across the room, leaving a passage up the middle, the men and women occupying differentsides. A pulpit was at the further end of the room, and in front of itstood a black preaching. He was in the middle of his sermon when we camein, so we did not hear the text, and sat down quietly at some distancefrom him, so as to be able to get out and go home to poor papa wheneverwe wished; a nigger came forward, and invited us to go further up theroom, which we declined. The sermon went on for some time; it describedthe happiness felt by God's true children: and how they would cling toeach other in persecution. The preacher encouraged them all in the pathof holiness, and explained the Gospel means of salvation with greatclearness, and really with admirably chosen words; there was a littleaction but not too much; and there were no vulgarities. The discoursewas at least equal to the sermons of many of our dissenting ministers, and appeared to come from the lips of an educated gentleman, althoughwith a black skin. He finished, and an old negro rose, and gave out thetext:--"And seeing the multitudes, He went up into a mountain, " &c. Hisvoice at first was faint, and I could not hear what were the variousjokes he cut which produced loud laughter, so we advanced a little. Heafterwards became more serious. His address was quite distinct from histext, being an earnest and very well delivered exhortation to theconverted to grow in grace; at the end of every period he repeated histext as a _refrain_. At first, I observed among the dark ladies a few suppressed murmurs ofapprobation, but as his discourse proceeded, these were turned intogroans; and when he quoted a text, or said anything more than usuallyimpressive, there was a regular rocking and swaying of the figure amongthem, while one or two repeated aloud the last words of his text. Whilehe was preaching, a tall thin young woman, in deep mourning, came in, and room was made for her to sit down next to a very fat negress, whom Ihad observed at our own church in the morning. The latter passed her armround the shoulder of this young woman, as they sat together, and Iobserved that at various solemn passages of the old man's address, theybegan to rock their bodies, gently at first, but afterwards more andmore violently, till at last they got into a way of rocking themselvesquite forward off their seat, and then on it again, the fat womancuddling up the thin one more and more closely to her. There seemed asort of mesmeric influence between the two, occasioning in both similartwistings and contortions of the body, shakings of the head, lookingsupward, lookings downward, and louder words of exclamation andapprobation. This was not continuous in its violence, though there wasgenerally _some_ movement between them; but the violence of it came onin fits, and was the effect of the old man's words. It was very curiousthat whenever he repeated the text (a far from exciting one, I thought), the agitation became most violent. The other women continued to murmurapplause, and one woman in advance of the others (a very frightful one)looked upwards, and frequently smiled a heavenly (?) smile. I sat ratherbehind most of them, and on the side where the men were, so that unlesswhen the women turned round, I could scarcely see their faces. After atime the old man commented upon the succeeding verses of the Chapter asfar as the words, "Blessed are the poor in spirit, " &c. , and here heceased, almost abruptly; a hymn was immediately given out by the firstpreacher, and was sung most loudly and vigorously by most of thecongregation. The men's voices were very loud, but they all sang true, and with great spirit and energy. There were no musical instruments, andthey sat while singing. The hymns seemed very stirring, but I am sorry Icannot give you the words of any of them, as there were no books, andthey sung at first from memory, though in some of the after hymns thepreacher gave them out by two lines at a time. This being, as I was afterwards told, a Baptist class-meeting, the firstman invited any brother or sister to tell the others "how the Lord haddealt with him, " or "what He had done for his soul. " (I quote hiswords. ) Whereupon a tall well-dressed young negro rose from his seat, and standing up, told us that he had been a great sinner, and that hehad, through many difficulties, learnt to serve God. He spoke ofpersecutions from within in the struggles of a sinful nature and ofgreat and bitter ones from without. He did not describe what these hadbeen: but told us that the victory had been his. His language, andchoice of expressions, were always good, though at times there was alittle of the peculiar negro pronunciation. At all descriptions of thecontest having been in his favour, the women swayed their bodies; andwhen he, and others after him, asserted to those around that what he hadfelt could not have been from Satan, and therefore must have been fromGod, there was great agitation, especially in my two friends, and grinsand murmurs from the others. The men listened quietly, sometimesgrinning with delight, and sometimes leaning their heads forward ontheir hands, as if meditating. A few of the men who sat at the upper endof the room leant their heads against the wall, and _might_ have beenasleep. After this young man's "experience" was ended, came another singing ofhymns, and then another invitation for more "experiences;" when a tall, fat, important-looking man rose: his figure reminded one of a fat, burlyLondon butler; and his account of himself was somewhat extravagant. "Heart was hard as stone; a great sinner; was standing in an orchard;couldn't love God or pray; seemed as if a great light came from the sky;got behind a tree; the light came nearer; seemed as if drawing me, " &c. &c. ; ending in the happy circumstance of _his_ complete conversion; andhe sat down, his discourse producing the same agitating effects, and ofan increasing kind on all the women, specially on my fat and thinfriends. Then came another hymn, and another invitation; which wasfollowed by the preacher's going up to a young negress and speaking afew words to her in a whisper; whereupon he told us, that a youngperson, who had been wonderfully "dealt with by the Lord, " was about togive an account of herself. The young girl, of about twenty, black, butpleasing-looking, advanced, and standing straight up before thepreacher, repeated to him her experience almost as if it were a lessonshe had learnt by heart. There was a cadence, or sort of chant, in herdelivery; but with the most perfect quietness of manner. She had been, she said, a great sinner; and she then gave an account of herself atmuch greater length than the others. In speaking of the difficultiesthat had met her in her spiritual path, there was a very musical andtouching mournfulness in her voice that made her an object of greatinterest. The men, at least, seemed to think so; for they all becamemost lively, grinned gloriously, their splendid white teeth contrastingwith their dark skins; my two friends became nearly frantic, the one inmourning especially, when shaken by the agitation of her fat friend, writhed her body in all directions. They both began shouting, "Glory!Glory!" with a loud voice; and finally the younger one fell forward onher face, in a sort of trance. After a time she got back upon her seat;but I never witnessed such a state of excitement, except once, yearsago, when I saw a young woman in an epileptic fit. All this wasevidently in a sort of small camp-meeting style. August is the month forthese meetings when out of doors; but this was a minor one. The woman infront grinned, and even laughed outright, having great hollows ordimples in her cheeks. The young girl was really interesting, soperfectly calm and so modest; never looking to the right or left. Shesaid she felt ashamed to appear before them all, but that she should notbe ashamed to appear before God: and whenever interrupted, she resumedthe thread of her narrative with the utmost composure. She ended after atime, but remained standing before the preacher, who was seated, andwho proceeded to examine her as to whether she thought she was _really_converted to God. Her answers were faint, as if from fatigue andexhaustion, her narrative having been a very long one; but still therewas a quiet, unfaltering decision in her replies, which were given withmuch humility of manner. I could not help sometimes doubting whether thewhole thing was really unprepared and extemporaneous, or whether shemight not have learnt her lesson and repeated it by rote, or whether, inshort, it might not have been a piece of acting. This impression lastedonly for a moment, for there was such an artless and modest manner inthe young girl, that I could not fail on the whole to give her thefullest credit for sincerity, and was angry only with her black malefriends for requiring from her such a display of herself and herfeelings in a public congregation; which made me feel much for the younggirl throughout. After various warnings that she would meet withdifficulties, that she was joining a "plain set of old Baptist saints, "&c. , she said she wished and desired to do so. The preacher then asked, almost in the words of the Liturgy, "Wilt thou be baptized?" and sheanswered, "I will. " Whereupon he asked the congregation to show by theirhands if they approved of her being baptized; and there being asufficient show of hands, she was told she was duly elected as acandidate for baptism; when another hymn being struck up in the samevociferous style as before, we rose and left the assembly, not liking tobe longer absent from papa. We came out upon the lovely, calm, moonlightnight, so sweet, so exquisitely heavenly; and I felt how differentlynature looked without, to those distressing sights of bodily agitationand contortion we had witnessed within. I thought of the poor youngnegro girl's quiet testimony, and gentle voice and manner, and wonderedif _she_, too, would learn in time to become uproarious, and shout, "Glory! Glory!" The probability is, that she will become like herneighbours; for I can tell you later other stories about the necessitythese poor nigger women seem to be under to shout "Glory!" I was glad tohave seen this specimen of the camp-meeting style. Although I have felt it scarcely possible to describe the scene withouta certain mixture of the ludicrous, no feeling of irreverence crossed mymind at the time. On the contrary, my sympathies were greatly drawn outtowards these our poor fellow-creatures; and there was something mostinstructive in the sight of them there assembled to enjoy those highestblessings--blessings of which no man could rob them. Religion seemed tobe to them not a mere sentiment or feeling, but a real tangiblepossession; and one could read, in their appreciation of it, a lesson toone's own heart of its power to lift man above all earthly sorrow, privation, and degradation into an upper world, as it were, even herebelow, of "joy and peace in believing. " To-day, after posting our letters for England, papa went to GeneralCass, Secretary of State for the United States, and delivered his letterof introduction from Mr. Dallas, the American Minister in London. He hada long and interesting interview with him. We went afterwards to the Capitol, and all over it, under the guidanceof our coachman, a very intelligent and civil Irishman. We were quitetaken by surprise at what we saw; for not only is the building itself, which is of white marble, a very fine one, but the internal fittings, or"fixings, " as they perpetually call them here, show a degree of tastefor which before leaving England we had not given the Americans credit. Two wings are now being added to the original building, and are nearlycompleted; and a new and higher dome than the original one is beingbuilt over the centre. The wings are destined to be occupied, one by theSenate, and the other by the House of Representatives: in fact, theHouse of Representatives already make use of their wing; but the Senatewill still hold another session in the old Senate House, as the Senatorshave not yet quite decided upon their "fixings. " The new chamber is, however, sufficiently advanced to enable us to form a judgment of whatit will be; and although, perhaps, inferior in beauty to that of theHouse of Representatives, it is in very good taste: but the room wherethe Representatives meet is really most beautiful. The seats are rangedin semi-circles, with desks before each, in much the same manner as inParis; which gives a more dignified appearance than the arrangement ofthe seats in our House of Commons. The floors throughout a great part ofthe building are in very good tesselated work, made by Minton, inEngland; as the tiles made in this country do not preserve their colourlike the English ones. The ceilings of some of the passages arebeautifully decorated; and one of the committee rooms, appropriated toagricultural matters, is remarkably well painted in fresco; all thesubjects have allusion to agricultural pursuits. In the centre of thebuilding, round the circular part, under the dome, are some veryindifferent pictures, representing subjects connected with the historyof America, beginning with the landing of Columbus. Two out of the eightrepresented incidents in the war of independence; one being thesurrender of Lord Cornwallis, who seemed very sorry for himself. Theview from the Capitol is fine; the gardens round it are kept in goodorder, and there being a great deal of maple in the woods, the rednessof the leaf gave a brilliant effect to the scene. From the Capitol we went to the Patent Office, in which are contained anendless variety of models. It is immediately opposite the Post Office, and both are splendid buildings of white marble. The Post Office isstill unfinished, but it will be of great size. The Patent-Office is anenormous square building. The four sides, which are uniform, have largeflights of stairs on the outside, leading to porticos of Corinthianpillars. We entered the building, and went into a large apartment, wherewe were lost in contemplation of the numerous models, which we admiredexceedingly, though the shortness of the time we had to devote to themprevented our examining them as minutely as they seemed to deserve. Papa, indeed, was disposed to be off when we had gone through this room, as we had still much to do, and he professed his belief that we musthave seen the whole. I, having my wits more about me, could not conceivehow this could well be the case, seeing we had only looked at one out offour sides. There is no one in these places to show them to strangers, so we asked a respectable-looking person if there were any more rooms, when he replied, "Oh, yes! you have only been looking at the _rejected_models. " Whereupon we entered on the second side of the square; but, toconfess the truth, the rejected and accepted ones seemed to us much of apiece, and we were not sorry, on arriving at the third side, to find itshut up and apparently empty, so we beat a retreat. We were told atBaltimore that the collection was a very fine one, and doubtless it maybe very interesting to a person competent to judge of the details; butthe models, besides being shut up in glass-cases, and consequently veryinaccessible, were generally on too small a scale to be comprehended byordinary observers, and in this respect, the collection was of much lessinterest to us than the exhibition we had lately seen in the unfortunateCrystal Palace at New York, where the models exhibited were of the fullsize of the machines meant to be used, and consequently almostintelligible to an unprofessional person. Besides what may be strictlyconsidered models, there were in the rooms some objects more suited toan ordinary museum. Such were various autographs, and many relics ofWashington; and a case containing locks of the hair of all thepresidents, from the time of Washington downwards. When mentioning our visit to General Cass, I omitted to state themagnificence of the Treasury, which adjoins his official residence; anenormous structure, also of white marble. We counted thirty pillars infront, of the Ionic order, besides three more recently added on a wing, these three pillars of great height being cut out of single blocks ofmarble. We passed this building again in going from the Patent-Office toLord Napier's, where we had an appointment with Mr. Erskine. The noble mansion of England's representative is a cube of brick-workpainted dark-brown, equal in size, and very much resembling inappearance, our own D. P. H. ; but standing in a melancholy street, without the appendages of green-house, conservatory, and gate, as inthat choice London mansion. The Honourable Secretary's apartment wasdownstairs in the area, and the convenience of its proximity to thekitchen, with the thermometer at 85° in the shade, as it was to-day, wasdoubtless duly appreciated by him, he having just arrived from Turin. Wefound him waiting for us, and he accompanied us to the President'sresidence, called the White House. It is a handsome but unpretendingbuilding, not like its neighbours, of marble, but painted to look likestone; the public reception-rooms are alone shown, but a good-naturedservant let us see the private rooms, and took us out on a sort ofterrace behind, where we had a lovely view of the Potomac. The house issituated in a large garden, opposite to which, on the other side of theroad, is a handsome, and well-kept square. The house has no pretensionsabout it, but would be considered a handsome country house in England;and the inside is quite in keeping, and well furnished. The furniture isalways renewed when a new President takes possession; and as this is thecase every four years, it cannot well become shabby. In a line directly opposite the back of the house, and closing up theview at the end of the gardens, stands the monument which is beingerected to Washington. This, when finished, is to be a circularcolonnaded building, 250 feet in diameter, and 100 feet high, from whichis to spring an obelisk 70 feet wide at the base, and 500 feet high, sothat, when completed, the whole will be as high as if our monument inLondon were placed on the top of St. Paul's. At present nothing but itsugly shaft is built, which has anything but a picturesque appearance, and it is apparently likely to remain in this condition, as it is notallowed to be touched by any but native republican hands, here a ratherscarce commodity. It is being built of white stone, one of the manykinds found in this country. By the by, we omitted to state, indescribing the Capitol, that the balustrades of the staircases, and agood deal of ornamental work about the building, are of marble, from aquarry lately discovered in Tennessee, of a beautiful darkish lilacground, richly grained with a shade of its own colour; it is veryvaluable, costing seven dollars per cubic foot. From the President's house we went to the Observatory, which, thoughunpretending in its external appearance, is said to be the finest in theworld next to the one at St. Petersburgh; so at least says theWashington Guide Book, for I like to give our authority for what weourselves should not have supposed to be the case. Mr. Erskineintroduced himself, and then us, to Lieutenant Maury, who is at thehead of it, and is well known as a writer on meteorological subjects. Heis a most agreeable man, and we talked much about the comet, meteoricstones, &c. ; we asked him what he thought of Professor Silliman's notionabout the comet's tail being an electric phenomenon, but he seemed tothink little was known on the subject. He said this comet had never beenseen before, and might never return again, as its path seemed parabolic, and not elliptical; but he said that what was peculiarly remarkableabout it was the extreme agitation observed in the tail, and even in thenucleus, the motion appearing to be vibratory. With regard to meteoricstones, he said the one we saw at New Haven, though of such a prodigioussize, being 200 lbs. Heavier than the one in the British Museum, was afragment only of a larger stone. We asked permission to go to the top ofthe observatory, and at a hint from papa, I expressed the great desire Ihad to see Venus by daylight, through the great telescope; whereupon, hesent for Professor B----, and asked him to take us up to theobservatory, and to direct the great telescope to Venus. We mountedaccordingly, and I was somewhat alarmed when the whole room in which wewere placed, began to revolve upon its axis. Setting the telescope takes some minutes, and the Professor ejected usfrom the room at the top of the building on to a balcony, from which wehad a most lovely view of the neighbouring country. By means of a verygood small telescope placed on a swivel, we could see most distinctlythe Military Retreat (the Chelsea of America), beautifully situated upona high hill about three miles off. We saw also through this telescopethe Smithsonian Institute, which we were glad to be able to study inthis way in detail, as we found we should not have time to go to it. Itis a very large building of the architecture of the twelfth century, andthe only attempt at Mediæval architecture which we have seen in theUnited States. The view of the Potomac and of the hill and buildings of George Town wasvery extensive and remarkable; but before we had feasted our eyessufficiently on it, we were summoned to see one of the most lovelysights I ever witnessed. Though it was mid-day, and the sun was shiningmost brilliantly, we saw the exquisitely sharp crescent of Venus in thepale sky, and about half the apparent size of the moon. The object-glassof the instrument was divided into squares, and she passed rapidlyacross the field of the telescope, sailing, as it were, in ether; by theslightest motion of a tangent-screw of great length, we were able tobring her back as often as we liked, to the centre of the field. Thismechanical process might, however, have been rendered unnecessary, hadthe machinery attached to the instrument been wound up; for when this isthe case, if the telescope is directed to any star or point in theheavens, it continues to point to it for the whole twenty-four hours insuccession, the machine revolving round in the plane to which it is set. The instrument is a very powerful one, and, like the smaller one welooked through before, was made by Fraunhofer, a famous optician atMunich. There are some other very wonderful instruments which we had nottime to see, as we had to make desperate haste to get some dinner, andbe off by the late train to Baltimore. But before I take leave of thissubject, I must return for a minute or two to that most perfectly lovelycreature Venus. She was a true crescent; we could imagine we saw thejagged edge of the inner side of the crescent, but the transition fromthe planet to the delicate sky was so gradual, that as far as this inneredge was concerned, this was probably only imagination. Her colouringon this jagged side was of the most transparent silvery hue. The outeredge was very sharply defined against the sky, and her colour shaded offon this side to a pale golden yellow with a red or pink tint in it; thisbeing the side she was presenting to the sun. No words can express herbeauty. She is the planet that I told you lately looked so very large. On our way to the station, and in our drives about the town, we had anopportunity of seeing the City of Washington. The town was originallylaid out by Washington himself, and divided off into streets, or ratherwide avenues, which are crossed by other streets of great breadth; butthough the streets are named, in many of them no houses are yet built, and those that are have a mean appearance, owing to their being unsuitedin height to the great width of the streets, which are in many cases, Ishould think, three times the width of Portland Place, and long inproportion. Notwithstanding, therefore, the beauty of the publicbuildings, the town greatly disappointed us. On our arrival at Baltimore this evening, Mr. Garrett, the principaldirector of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, called upon us and broughtwith him Mr. Henry Tyson, the chief engineer, or as he is called, themaster of machinery of the road, whom he was kind enough to appoint togo with us as far as Wheeling, the western terminus of the line. This is the most remarkable railway in America for the greatness of theundertaking and the difficulties encountered in passing the Alleghanies, which the projectors of the road could only do by crossing the range ata height of 2700 feet, a project that most people looked upon asvisionary. We are to start to-morrow morning at eight o'clock. _Wheeling, Oct. 21st. _--We have accomplished the great feat of passingthe Alleghanies, and Mr. Tyson has proved a Cicerone of unequalledexcellence, from his great attention to us, added to his knowledge ofthe country, and his talents, which are of no ordinary kind. He is theengineer who has invented, or at least constructed on a new plan, thelocomotives which are used upon this road: but besides being a veryclever engineer, he is remarkably well read in general literature, andhas a wonderful memory for poetry and a great knowledge of botany. [Illustration: Plan of Directors' car] Though Mr. Garrett talked of the directors' car, we presumed it was onlya common carriage such as we had been accustomed to, but appropriated totheir use; instead of this we found a beautiful car, forty feet long byeight wide, of which the accompanying diagram shows a plan drawn toscale. Outside: painted maroon, highly varnished with Canada balsam: thepanels picked out with dark blue. Inside: painted pure white, alsovarnished. Ceiling the same, divided into small narrow panels, withexcellent ventilators at each end. Round the car there were twenty-twowindows, not shown in the plan, and three brilliant lamps in thesitting-room and hall, and one in the bed-room; these were lighted whenpassing through the tunnels. There were three hooks in the wall servingfor hat pegs, and at the same time to support two flags for signals. Alarge map of the mountain pass from Cumberland to Wheeling hung over thesofa opposite the table. The table was covered with green baizestretched tightly over it. On the table were placed a largeblotting-book, ink, and pens, three or four daily newspapers which werechanged each day, the yearly report of the railway, a peculiartime-table book, containing rules for the guidance of the station men, times of freight and passenger trains meeting and passing each other, &c. Papa has these. The sofas are covered with a pretty green Brusselscarpet (small pattern) quilted like a mattress with green buttons, chairs covered with corded wollen stuff, not a speck or spot of ink orsmut on anything. A neat carpet, not a speck or spot on it, a sheet oftin under and all round the stove. Pantry cupboard containing knives andforks, spoons, and mugs. Bed-room berths much higher and wider than in aship. Red coloured cotton quilts, with a shawl pattern, two pillows toeach bed, pillowcases of brilliant whiteness, sofa bed larger and longerthan a German bed. White Venetian blinds occupied the places usuallyfilled by the door panels and window shutters. Green Brussels carpetlike the cover of the sofa; three chairs to match. The windows in thesitting-room had grey holland curtains running on wires with very neatlittle narrow strips of leather, and a black button to fasten them, anda button and well made button-hole below to keep them from blowing aboutwhen the window is open. Looking-glass in neat gilt frame, hung over asemicircular console in the bed-room, another near the washhandstand, where a towel also hangs. Two drawers for clothes, &c. Under berths. Table-cloth for meals, light drab varnished cloth, imitating leather, very clean and pretty, china plates, and two metal plates in case ofbreakages. Luncheon consisted of excellent cold corned beef, tongue, bread and butter, Bass's ale, beer, whiskey, champagne, all Mr. Tyson's. We supplied cold fowls, bread, and claret. The door at the end opens ona sort of platform or balcony, surrounded by a strong high iron railing, with the rails wide enough apart to admit a man to climb up between theminto the car, which the workmen always do to speak to Mr. Tyson. Usualstep entrance at the other end. The platform can hold three arm chairseasily, and we three sat there yesterday evening, talking and admiringthe view. The door was always open and we were in and out constantly. Thrower and Gaspar, a capital German man-servant, sat in the hall. Carpet swept by Gaspar after dinner to remove crumbs. I wear neitherbonnet nor shawl, but sit at the table and work, make mems. , dry redleaves, and learn their names from Mr. Tyson. Papa is always movingabout, and calling me out constantly to admire the view from thebalcony. Yesterday on the lower ground it was much too hot in themiddle of the day to be there, and we were glad to be within the car, and to shade the glare of the sun by means of our pretty grey curtains, though it was cooler on the mountain. But I must begin to describe our road more methodically. As we wished toget over the early part of it as expeditiously as possible, we startedby the mail train at 8. 30. It will be impossible to describe at lengthall the pretty places we passed, respecting each of which Mr. Tyson hadalways something to say. Soon after leaving the Washington junction, wecame to a sweet spot called Ellicott's Mills, where he had spent hisboyhood, and where every rock was familiar to him. The family ofEllicotts, who had resided there from the settlement of the country, were his mother's relations, and by his father's side he was descendedfrom Lord Brooke, who was likewise one of the original settlers, theWarwick branch of the family having remained in England. We first came in sight of the Blue Ridge at about forty miles fromBaltimore. During the greater part of this distance we had beenfollowing up the Patapaco river; but soon after this, at the Point ofRocks, we came upon the Potomac. Here the Baltimore and Ohio canal, awork of prodigious magnitude, and the railway run side by side betweenthe river and very high cliffs, though the space apparently could affordroom only for one of them. We reached Harper's Ferry a little aftertwelve, and the view is certainly splendid. Mr. Tyson had madearrangements to give the passengers a little extra time for dinner, thathe might take us to see the view from the heights above withoutmaterially detaining the train; but the sun was so powerful that we wereglad to limit our walk in order to see a little in detail the bridgeover which we had just passed in the railway cars. It is a verywonderful work, but not so remarkable for its length as for its peculiarstructure, the two ends of it being curved in opposite directions, assuming the form of the letter S. It passes not only over the river butover the canal, and before it reaches the western bank of the river itmakes a fork, one road going straight on, and the other, which we wentupon, forming the second bend of the S. The curves in the railway are very sharp, and a speed of thirty-fivemiles an hour is kept up in going round those which have a radius of 600feet. This, and repeatedly recurring ascents of a very steep grade, require engines which unite great power with precision in themovements, and these are admirably combined in Mr. Tyson's engines;which, moreover, have the advantage of entirely consuming their ownsmoke, and we had neither sparks nor cinders to contend with. The commonrate of travelling, where the road is level, is forty miles an hour, andat this rate each engine will take eighteen cars with 2600 passengers. The difficulties they have to contend with on this road are greatlyincreased by the snow drifts in winter. Mr. Tyson told us that on oneoccasion the snow had accumulated in one night, by drifts, to fourteenfeet in the cuts, and it required ten freight engines of 200-horse powereach, or 2000-horse power altogether, to clear it away. Three hundredmen were employed, and the wind being bitterly cold, hardly any escapedbeing frost-bitten. One of the tenders was completely crushed up by theforce applied; and in the middle of the night, with the snow stilldriving, and in a piercing wind, they had to clear away the wreck:nineteen engines, called snow ploughs, are kept solely to clear away thesnow. At five o'clock we reached Cumberland, where we slept. After dinner wewalked out in the most lovely night possible to see the town, and themoon being nearly full, we saw the valley as distinctly almost as bydaylight. There is a great gap here in the mountain, which forms aprominent feature in the landscape, and a church on the summit of a highhill rendered the picture almost perfect. We here saw the comet for thelast time. Next morning, the 20th October, we started early, in order to be able totake the mountain pass more leisurely, attached ourselves at 6. 15 to theexpress train, and reached Piedmont at 7. 30. During this part of ourjourney we continued to follow up the Potomac, but here we left it tofollow up the Savage river, and for seventeen miles continued to ascendto Altamont, where we attained the summit level of 2700 feet above thesea. We cast ourselves off from the express at Piedmont, and afterwardstacked ourselves on to a train which left Piedmont at eight o'clock, andgot to Altamont at 9. 45; these seventeen miles occupied an hour andthree quarters, the grade for eleven miles out of the seventeen being116 feet per mile. It is almost impossible to describe the beauty of the scenery here. Theroad goes in a zig-zag the whole way. We passed several substantialviaducts across the Savage river, often at a great height above thevalley, and on many occasions, when the road made one of its rapidturns, a vista of many miles up the gorges was obtained. Of course the greatest skill is required in driving the engine up whatis called the "Mountain Division. " We mounted on the locomotive, to havea more perfect view of the ascent. This locomotive is very different toan English one, as the place where the driver sits is enclosed on threesides with glass, so as to shelter him and those with him from theweather. Mr. Tyson thought it necessary to drive a small part of the wayhimself; but after that, he resigned his position, as will be seen bythe following certificate, to one equally qualified for an emergency, though hitherto his peculiar talent in that line had not been developed. "Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Machinery Department. "Baltimore, Oct. 21st, 1858. "This is to certify that Mr. A. T. Has occupied the position of 'Locomotive Engineer, ' on the _Mountain Division_ (3rd) of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. "The term of his occupation has been characterised by a close attention to his duties, and consequent freedom from accidents. (Signed) "HENRY TYSON, "Master of Machinery, "Baltimore and Ohio R. R. Co. " Papa, in fact, drove the engine a considerable way up the steepest partof the ascent, and as the driver must command an uninterrupted view ofthe road before him, he had a capital opportunity of seeing the country. Thrower and I sat on a seat behind him; but he alone had the full view, as the chimney of the engine rather obstructed ours in front, though oneach side we saw perfectly. The whistle of the engine, when so close toour ears, was splendid, or perhaps you would have said, terrific. From Altamont to Cranberry Summit, where the descent begins, there is acomparatively level country, called the Glades, which are beautifulnatural meadows undulating and well cultivated, with high ranges ofmountains, generally at no great distance from the road, but varying agood deal in this respect, so as sometimes to leave a considerable plainbetween it and the range. From these glades numerous valleys diverge, and, in looking down these, splendid vistas are obtained. The verdureeven now is very bright, and the streams, which are everywhere to beseen, are remarkably clear and pure; so that although the interest ofthe road was less absorbing than when we were ascending the mountains, it was still very great. From Cranberry Summit the distant views to thewestward were quite magnificent. We now entered on what is called the "Cheat River Region, " and thedescent to Grafton (a distance of thirty miles) is even more beautifulthan the ascent to Altamont. To give you some slight idea of the natureof the road and of the scenery, I enclose a photograph of one of thebridges over the Cheat River. This is called the Tray Run Viaduct, andit is 640 feet long; the masonry is seventy-eight feet high, and theiron-work above that is eighty feet. The road here is about sevenhundred feet above the river, which runs in the valley below. Thisriver, the Cheat, is a dark, rapid, mountain stream, the waters of whichare almost of a coffee-colour, owing, it is said, to its rising inforests of laurel and black spruce, with which the high lands hereabound. We passed hereabouts many curious-looking log houses, a photograph ofone of which we enclose. [7] You will observe the man with a cradle byhis side, and his whip, gun, bottle, jar, &c. , also the chimney, whichis a remarkable structure, consisting of a barrel above a heap ofstones, showing the resources of the West. Before reaching Grafton, we passed the Great Kingwood tunnel, which ismuch thought of in America, being 4100 feet in length, though it isgreatly beat by many of our tunnels in England; but tunnels are rare inAmerica, as the roads generally run through the valleys. We reached Grafton at four o'clock, and had a lovely afternoon toexplore the beauties of the neighbourhood. We went into a number ofcottages and log-huts, and were delighted with the people; but thedetails of our Grafton visit must be given to you _vivâ voce_ on ourreturn. The night was brilliant, and it was one o'clock in the morningbefore we took our last look of the moonlit valley, and of the riverswhich here joined their streams almost under the windows of our rooms. We may mention that in this day's journey, we passed the source of theMonongahela, the chief branch of what afterwards becomes the Ohio. It ishere a tiny little clear stream, winding through the glades we havespoken of. On Thursday morning, though it was past one before we went to bed, I wasup at six, as soon as it was light, to make a sketch from our bed-roomwindow, which will give you hereafter some notion of the scene, thoughneither description nor drawing can convey any real idea of it. Afterbreakfast, papa and I and Thrower went up a tolerably steep hill to thecottage of three old ladies, whose characters I had an opportunity ofstudying while papa went on with the guide to the Great National orState Turnpike Road, or "Pike Road" as they called it, which used to bethe connecting link between Washington and Southern Virginia. Thoughmuch disused it is still well kept up. After going along it for somedistance, papa struck up to the top of a high hill, from whence he had amagnificent view of the valleys on both sides of the ridge he was on, and he was surprised to find what large tracts of cultivated ground werevisible, while to those below there seemed nothing but forest-coveredmountains, but between these he could see extensive glades, where everypatch was turned to account. This we afterwards saw from other parts ofthe road. While papa was taking his hasty walk, Thrower and I sat down in thelog-hut where these three old spinster sisters had lived all theirlives. They were quite characters, and cultivated their land entirelywith their own hands; though, when we asked their ages, two of them saidthey were "in fifty, " and one "in sixty;" they were most intelligent andagreeable, and two looked very healthy; but the third had just had asevere illness, and looked very ill. One was scraping the Indian corngrains off the cob, using another cob to assist her in the work; wewatched the beautifully-productive plant, and admired its growth. Theircottage or hut looked quite comfortable, and there were substantial logstables and farm-buildings adjoining. When the weather permitted, theygot down the hill to Grafton to the Methodist meeting. There is noEpiscopal church there yet, excepting a Roman Catholic one, to whichthey will not go, though they speak with thankfulness of the kindnessthey have received from the priest. They said their father used to tell them to read their Bible, do theirduty, and learn their way to heaven, and this they wished to do. Theywere honest, straightforward good women, and _ladies_ in their minds, though great curiosities to look at. This walk, and our subsequent explorings in Grafton, occupied the wholeforenoon, the temptation to pick the red leaves and shake the trees forhickory nuts being very great, and having greatly prolonged the timewhich our walk occupied. But the village itself, for it is no more, though, having a mayor, it calls itself a city, had great objects ofinterest, and is a curious instance of what a railway will do inAmerica to _make_ a town; for it scarcely had any existence three yearsago, and is now full of artificers and others employed in the railwayworks, all fully occupied, and earning excellent wages. The people marry so early that the place was almost overflowing withchildren, who certainly bore evidence in their looks to the healthinessof the climate. This being a slave state, there was a sprinkling of a black population;and among the slaves we were shocked by observing a little girl, withlong red ringlets and a skin exquisitely fair, and yet of the proscribedrace, which made the institution appear more revolting in our eyes thananything we have yet seen. The cook at the hotel was a noble-lookingblack, tall and well-made, and so famous for his skill at omelettes, that we begged him to give us a lesson on the subject, which hewillingly did. I asked him if he were a slave, and he replied, making mea low bow, "No, ma'am, I belong to myself. " The little red-haired girlwas a slave of the mistress of the hotel. We again linked ourselves on to a train which came up at about oneo'clock, and at Benton's Ferry, about twenty miles from Grafton, wecrossed the Monongahela, over a viaduct 650 feet long; the iron bridge, which consists of three arches of 200 feet span each, being the longestiron bridge in America. Though the water was not very deep, owing to arecent drought, it was curious to see the little stream of yesterdaychanged into an already considerable river, almost beating any we canboast of in England. We now began to wind our way down the ravine called Buffalo Creek, whichwe passed at Fairmont, over a suspension bridge 1000 feet long. The roadstill continued very beautiful, and was so all the way to this place, Wheeling, which we reached at about six o'clock. The last eleven mileswas up the banks of the _real_ Ohio, for the Monongahela, after we lastleft it, takes a long course northward, and after being joined atPittsburg by the Alleghany, a river as large as itself, the two togetherthere, form the Ohio. From Pittsburg to where we first saw it, it hadcome south more than 100 miles, and at Wheeling it is so broad and deepas to be covered with magnificent steamers; there were five in front ofour hotel window, and most singular-looking they were, with their onehuge wheel behind, scarcely touching the water, and their two tallfunnels in front. They tower up to a great height, and are certainlythe most splendid-looking steamers we ever saw. We here left our valued friend Mr. Tyson, who after calling on us at thehotel in the evening, was to return at ten o'clock to Baltimore. Wecertainly never enjoyed a journey more. He is the most entertaining manyou can imagine, full of anecdotes and good stories; and, as we havesaid before, with such a marvellous memory, that he could repeat wholepassages of poetry by heart. His knowledge too of botany was delightful, for there was not a plant or weed we passed of which he could not onlytell the botanical and common name, but its history and use. He hastravelled much, having been employed in mining business in the Brazils. He has also been in the West Indies, in England, Scotland, and Ireland, and on the Continent of Europe. We had a pleasing variety in occasional visitors to the car; for notonly the work-people on the road, as I have said, got up behind to speakto Mr. Tyson, and were always received by him in the most friendlymanner, being men of high calibre in point of intelligence, but we hadat different times a Dr. Orr, a physician and director of the railway, who was on the engine with us to set our bones, if papa had capsized usand the doctor had escaped; also a Dr. Gerbard, a German surgeon, witha scar on his cheek from a duel at college in his youth. Dr. Orr wasaccompanied by a lady, with whom I conversed a good deal, and found shewas the owner of many slaves; but I must write you a chapter on slaveryanother time. All the last day of our journey from Grafton to Wheeling, was through Virginia, and the rural population were chiefly slaves. Thetwo doctors I have mentioned were our visitors yesterday. To-day, we hadthroughout with us Mr. Rennie (Mr. Tyson's assistant), and also MajorBarry, an agent of the Company, and an officer in the United Statesservice, who in the last Indian war captured with his own hand, BlackHawk, the great Indian Chief, in Illinois. He is an Irishman by birth, and had been in our service at the battle of Waterloo, but he left theBritish army, and entered the United States service in 1818. He was veryintelligent and agreeable. Our last visitor was Colonel Moore, also anagent of the company; a most gentleman-like man. This will show you whata superior set of men are employed on American railways. Among the men who spoke to us as we stood on our balcony, was adelightful character, a nigger. I heard Mr. Tyson look over and say, "Jerry, why did you not tell me you were going to get married?" Up cameJerry, looking the very picture of a happy bridegroom, having beenmarried the evening before to a dark widow considerably older thanhimself. He was quite a "get up" in his dress, with boots of aglistening blackness. He answered, "I sent you an invitation, Mr. Tyson, and left it at your office. " He was nothing daunted by his interestingposition in life, and had a week's holiday in honour of the event. Hewas, to use his own expression, a "'sponsible nigger, " though he wasactually only cleaner up, and carpet sweeper in the office, negroesnever being allowed to have any charge in the working of the line, or amore "'sponsible" station than that connected with the office work, though in that they are often confidentially employed in carrying moneyto the bank, &c. _Columbus, Friday 22nd. _--It began to rain last night, and continued topour to-day till ten o'clock, so that we had no opportunity of seeingmuch of the town of Wheeling, but our rooms looked on to the Ohio, andwere within a stone's throw of it. Another great steamer had come up inthe night, so there were _six_ now lying in front of the windows, looking like so many line-of-battle ships. We found that Jerry and his lady slept at our hotel, and I sent for themnext morning to speak to us. She was smartly dressed in a dark silk, with a richly embroidered collar and pocket handkerchief, which shecarefully displayed, and a large brooch. He wore a turn-down collar tohis shirt, of the most fashionable cut; the shirt itself had a pale bluepattern on it, and a diamond (?) shirt pin, the shirt having a frill _enjabot_. His face was shining and glistening with cleanliness andhappiness, and she looked up to him as if she were very proud of heryoung husband. He said he was very happy, and I complimented her on herdress, and asked her if she had bought much for the occasion, and sheadmitted that she had. I asked her where they went to church (allniggers are great worshippers somewhere, and generally are Methodists);and he said he went to the "Methodist Church, " that his wife was amember, and I encouraged him to continue going regularly. He said he hadmarried her for the purpose of doing so, and evidently looked up to heras a teacher in these matters. They said they could both read printedcharacters, but not writing, and that they read their Bibles. I askedhim if there were any other cars on the line like Mr. Tyson's, and hesaid, "Yes, several, miss. " "Are they handsomer than his?" "Some are, they are all different in their fancy principle. " He told us, of his ownaccord, that they had both been slaves. He bought his freedom for fivehundred dollars. They both had been kindly treated as slaves, but hesaid, not only the hickory stick, but the "raw hide, " was frequentlyused by unkind masters and mistresses; and, on my asking him whetherslaves had any redress in such cases, he said their free friends may tryto get some redress for them, but it does no good. This was _his_testimony on the subject, and I shall give you the testimony of everyone as I gather it for you to put together, that you may be able to formyour own deductions. Mr. Tyson had told us they _had_ redress, though heis an enemy to the "institution" of slavery, as it is here called, butstill maintains, what is no doubt the case, that they are oftener muchhappier in America than the free negro. Indeed he told us a well-treatedslave will look down on a freeman, and say, "_Ah! yes, he's only somepoor free trash. He's a poor white free trash. _" It was curious tonotice Jerry's sayings, only some of which I can remember. Mr. Tysonlooked down the line from the balcony yesterday, and said, to Jerry, whohad got out of a passenger car for a minute, "Jerry, do you see thetrain coming?" "Yes, sir; it blowed right up there;" meaning it hadwhistled. I will write to you more at large ere long about slavery, whenI have not topics pressing on time and pen. We left our hotel this morning at eight o'clock, and even in the omnibusnoticed the improved and very intelligent appearance of the men. Theyanswered us quickly, cheerfully, and to the purpose; many wore largepicturesque felt hats of various forms. It is true that, on starting, wewere still in Virginia, of which Wheeling is one of the largest towns;but the bulk of our fellow-passengers were evidently from the West; theyare chiefly descendants of the New Englanders, and partake of theircharacter, with the exception of the nasal twang, which is worse in NewEngland than anywhere else in America, and we are now losing the soundof it. The omnibus made a grand circuit of the town to pick uppassengers, and thus gave us the only opportunity we had of seeingsomething of it. It rained in torrents, and this probably made it lookmore dismal than usual, but it certainly is much less picturesque andmore English-looking than any town we have yet seen. The coal and iron, which constitute its chief trade, give it a very dirty appearance; butits natural situation, stretching along the banks of the Ohio, which arehere very high on both sides, is very beautiful. The omnibus at lastcrossed the river by a very fine suspension bridge, and, having left theslave states behind us, we found ourselves in the free State of Ohio. On the opposite side of the river we entered the cars of the OhioCentral Railroad, but alas! we had no Mr. Tyson, and no sofas or tablesor balconies, and were again simple members of the public, destined toenjoy all the tortures of the common cars. These however were infirst-rate style, with velvet seats, and prettily painted, withbrilliant white panelled ceilings; and we here fell in again, to my nosmall comfort, with the venders of fruit and literature, or "pedlaring, "as it is called, which forms a pleasant break in the tedium of a longjourney. I have been often told the reverse, but the literature sold inthis way is, as far as we have seen, rather creditable than otherwise tothe country, being generally of an instructive and useful character. Many works published quite recently in England, could be bought eitherin the cars or at the stores; and some of the better class of Englishnovels are reprinted in America, and sold at the rate of two or threeshillings a volume. The daily newspapers, sold on the railways, arenumerous; but these, with very few exceptions, are quite unworthy of thecountry. In general there are no articles worth reading, for they arefilled with foolish and trashy anecdotes, written, apparently, bypenny-a-liners of the lowest order of ability. The magazines, and someof the weekly illustrated papers, are a degree better, but a great dealof the wit in these is reproduced from "Punch. " The first eighty-two miles to Zanesville were through a pretty and hillycountry. The hills were as usual covered with woods of every hue, sothat though the scenery was inferior to what we had been passing throughfor the last few days, it was still very beautiful. Zanesville, which isa considerable town, is situated on the Muskingham river. This finebroad stream must add considerably to the waters of the Ohio, into whichit falls soon after leaving Zanesville. At Zanesville, after partaking of an excellent dinner, we were joined byan intelligent woman, returning home, with her little baby of ten weeksold, from a visit she had just been making to her mother. Her own homeis in Missouri, and her husband being the owner of a farm of 500 acres, she was able to give us a good deal of information about the state ofagriculture in the Far West. I learnt much from her on various subjects, and was much surprised at the quick sharp answers she gave to all myquestions. She was well dressed, something in the style of the Englishlady's maid, was evidently well to do, and was travelling night and daywith her merry little baby. She possesses one slave of fourteen, forwhom she gave four hundred dollars, whom she has had from infancy; shebrings her up as her own, and this black girl is now taking care of herother children in her absence. I asked, "What do the slaves eat?""Everything: corn-bread, that's the most. " Papa said, "It is a greatshame making Missouri a slave state. " _Woman. _ "Ah yes; keeps it back. " _Self. _ "Have you good health?"--many parts being said to be unhealthy. _Woman. _ A quick nod. "First-rate. " _Self. _ "Did your mother give you the hickory stick?" _Woman. _ "No: the switch:--raised me on the rod of correction. " _Self. _ "Had your husband the farm before you married?" _Woman. _ "His father had 'entered it, ' and he gave my husband money, andmy mother gave me money, and then we married and 'entered it'ourselves. " All these answers came out with the utmost quickness and intelligence. She is an Irish Roman Catholic, her mother having brought her as a babyfrom Ireland, her husband is also Irish; but they are now Americans ofthe Far West in their manner and singular intelligence, beating even theclever Irish in this respect. I said: "Do you pray much to the Virgin Mary in your part of America?" _Woman. _ "No: don't notice her much. " _Self. _ "I am glad of that. " _Woman. _ "We respect her as the mother of God. " She said the corn on the road-side we were then passing was far inferiorto western produce, that it ought to be much taller, and that if it wereso, the ear would be much larger and fuller. Our English wheat is nevercalled corn, but simply wheat; and the other varieties oats, rye, &c. , are called by their different names, but the generic term _corn_, inAmerica, always means Indian corn. It is necessary to know this in orderto prevent confusion in conversation. This woman's name was MargaretM. ; she was twenty-seven years of age, but looked younger; her husband, James M. , was thirty-six. I asked her whether he was tall or short. "Oh tall, of course. Iwouldn't have had a poor short man. " So we looked at papa, and laughed, and said our tastes were the same. She was a most agreeable companion. She noticed that I was reading a novel by the author of "John Halifax, "which I had bought, the whole three volumes, for 1_s. _ 6_d. _, and said, "Ah! that's the sort of reading I like. That's a novel; but my priesttells me not to read that kind, that it fills me with silly thoughts;but to read something to make me more intelligent. " I thought thereseemed no deficiency in this respect, but agreed that the advice wasgood, and said that I had bought this for cheapness, and for beingportable, it being in the pamphlet form; and that I was so interruptedwith looking at the lovely scenery when travelling, that I could nottake in anything deeper. We wished each other good bye, and she wished me a happy meeting againwith our children. And now papa says this must be closed, and itcertainly has attained to no mean length, so I will not begin anothersheet, and hope you will not be wearied with this long chapter. FOOTNOTE: [7] These photographs cannot be reproduced here, which I regret, as theywere very well done. LETTER IX. JOURNEY FROM WHEELING TO COLUMBUS. --FIRE IN THE MOUNTAINS. --MR. TYSON'S STORIES. --COLUMBUS. --PENITENTIARY. --CAPITOL. --GOVERNOR CHASE. --CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. --ARRIVAL AT CINCINNATI. Columbus, Oct. 23rd, 1858. The letter which I sent you from this place this morning will have toldyou of our arrival here, but it was closed in such haste that I omittedmany things which I ought to have mentioned. It, moreover, carried usonly to Zanesville, and I ought to have told you that the view continuedvery pretty all the way to this place, and the day having cleared up atnoon, we had a brilliant evening to explore this town. Before describing Columbus, however, I shall go back to some omissionsof a still older date; for I ought to have told you of a grand sight wesaw the day we passed the Alleghany Ridge. On the preceding evening Mr. Tyson received a telegraphic message to say that an extensive fire wasraging in the forest; it is supposed to have been caused by some peopleshooting in the woods. It must have been a grand sight to thepassengers by the train from which we had separated, and which went onduring the night through the scene of the conflagration, for the firewas much more extensive than those which are constantly taking place, and which are passed by unheeded, --unhonoured with a telegraphic notice. When we passed by the place next morning it was still burningvigorously, but the daylight rendered the flames almost imperceptible. It was curious, however, to see the volumes of smoke, which we firstperceived in a hollow. The fire was then travelling down the side of themountain; and long after we passed the immediate spot we saw the firewinding about the mountains, spreading greatly, in the direction of thewind and making its way even against it, though it was blowing withconsiderable violence. The people in the neighbourhood were busilyemployed in trying to save their hayricks from destruction. Mr. Tysonsaid they would probably succeed in this, though the whole of the forestwas likely to be burnt, as the fire would wind about among the mountainsand pass from one to another for perhaps two months, unless a heavy rainput it out. This we hope has been the case, as it poured in torrents allthe following night when we were at Wheeling. Another circumstance we ought to have mentioned was our passing througha very long tunnel, called the Board Tree Tunnel, about 340 miles fromBaltimore. This tunnel, after having fallen in, has only been repairedwithin the last two months. The history of this catastrophe, and of themode of remedying it, forms quite an incident in the history of therailway, and shows with what resolution difficulties in this country areovercome. To reopen the tunnel it was clear would be a work of time, soMr. Tyson resolved to run a new temporary railway for three miles overthe mountain which had been tunnelled, and this was accomplished by 3000men in ten days. We saw the place where this road had passed, and thezig-zag line by which the mountain was crossed. The road seemspositively to overhang the precipice, and reminded me of a mountain passin Switzerland--as, indeed, the whole of the road here does. Mr. Tysonhimself drove the first train over, and he said his heart was in hismouth when, having got to the top, he saw the descent before him, andthe engine and train on a precipice where the least _contretemps_ wouldhave plunged the whole into the abyss below; but happily all went right, and till within the last two months this temporary road has been used. It was really quite frightful to look up and think a train could passover such a place, the grade being 420 feet in a mile, or 1 in 121/2; butyou will one day be able to form some idea of it, as a photograph wastaken, and Mr. Tyson will give us a copy of it. This is certainly awonderful country for great enterprises, and the Pennsylvania CentralRailway, by which we contemplate recrossing the Alleghanies, is in somerespects a still more remarkable undertaking, though the height at whichthe mountains are crossed on that line is not so great as that on theBaltimore and Ohio line, which, as I told you in my last, is at anelevation of 2700 feet. It was long supposed that such a feat could notbe surpassed, but Mr. Tyson says that, encouraged by this, a railway nowcrosses the Tyrolean Alps at a somewhat higher level. To return, however, to the Board Tree Tunnel: Mr. Tyson told us that thedifficulty of restoring it to a safe condition was so great as almost todishearten him till he had arched it completely over from one end to theother with solid stone masonry, which has rendered the recurrence of theaccident impossible; but the disheartening circumstance, while the workwas in progress, was the danger to which the men employed in the workwere exposed, from the constant falling in of the roof. During itsprogress no less than forty-five men were killed, and about 400 severelywounded. They were chiefly Roman Catholics, and were it not for theencouragement given by an energetic Roman Catholic priest, he hardlythinks the men would have continued the work. The doctor, too, whoattended the wounded, and whom we saw at breakfast at Grafton, was alsomost devoted to them. It was quite touching to hear the tender-heartedway in which Mr. Tyson spoke of the poor sufferers, for he wasconstantly there, and often saw them go in to almost certain death. Hementioned one poor widow to whom he had just sent three hundred dollarsas a gift from the railway. Before leaving the subject of Mr. Tyson, I must tell you one or two ofhis good stories. I had been telling him of the negro meeting, which Idescribed to you in my last. In it I told you how the negroes had criedout "glory! glory!" from which it appears it is almost impossible thatthey can refrain. In corroboration of this he told us of a nigger womanwho was sold from a Baptist to a Presbyterian family. In general slavesadopt, at once, the habits and doctrines of their new owners; but thispoor woman could not restrain herself, and greatly disturbed thePresbyterian congregation, by shouting out "glory! glory!" in themiddle of the service. Next morning the minister sent for her andrebuked her for this unseemly interruption of his sermon; but she saiddoggedly, "Can't help it, sir; I'm all full of glory; must shout itout. " Many of his amusing stories were about Irish labourers employed onthe road. One of these, whose duty it was to show a light at the stationas the train passed, failed one night to do so, and was seen asleep. Theman who drove the engine threw a cinder at him as he passed, to awakehim; but, instead of hitting him, the cinder broke his lamp glass. Allthis was told to Mr. Tyson, and also that the man was very angry at hislamp being broken. When Mr. T. Went down the line next day, he stoppedto lecture him, and the following colloquy ensued:-- _Mr. Tyson. _ "Well, your lamp was broke, I hear, yesterday. " _Irishman. _ "O, yes sir;" (terrified out of his life at the scolding hefeared was coming, for he saw that Mr. Tyson knew all about it;) "but Iforgive the blackguards intirely, sir, I _quite_ forgive them. " Mr. T. Kept his counsel, said nothing more, and the lamp has neverfailed since; but half the merit of this story depended on Mr. Tyson'sway of telling it. He was deliciously graphic also, and full of wittysayings of his own. When, for example, I showed him my photograph ofyour little brother, he exclaimed, "Well, he _is_ a fine fellow; HEdon't mind if corn is five dollars a bushel. " I think you will allappreciate this as a perfect description of the unconcern of a healthyintelligent-looking child, unconscious of the anxieties of those abouthim; but I must reserve his other good sayings and stories till we meet. To-day we have been most busily employed, for Mr. Garrett, our railwayfriend at Baltimore, not only did us the good service of sending us bythe car under Mr. Tyson's auspices, but gave us letters of introductionboth to this place and to Cincinnati; and his letters here to Mr. Neiland Mr. Dennison have been of great use to us, as one or the other ofthem has been in attendance upon us since 11 o'clock this morning, together with a very pleasing person, a widow, niece of Mr. Neil, andthey have shown us the town in first-rate style. Columbus is built on the banks of the Sciota, about 90 miles from thepoint where it falls into the Ohio. It is the capital of the State, andits streets, like those of Washington, have been laid out with a view toits becoming one day a town of importance; but as the preparations forthis, though on a considerable scale, are not so great as atWashington, the non-completion of the plan in its full extent producesno disagreeable effect. In fact, the streets where finished arecompletely so, and the unfinished parts consist of an extension ofthese, in the shape of long avenues of trees. In the principal streetsthe houses are not continuous, but in detached villas, and, judging bythe one in which Mr. Neil lives, appear to be very comfortableresidences. He and his niece called upon us yesterday evening, and, although he is an elderly gentleman, he was here by appointment thismorning at half-past 8, and took papa to call on Mr. Dennison, when theyarranged together the programme for the day. At 11 o'clock Mr. Dennison called, and took us to the Penitentiary, where nearly 700 prisoners are confined. I think he said 695, althoughit will hold the full number of 700 if need be. For the credit of thesex, I must say that only ten out of the whole are females. These tenare lodged each in a small room, for it can scarcely be called a cell, very well furnished, and opening into a large sitting-room, of whichthey all have the unrestrained use, although the presence of a matronputs a restraint on their tongues. They were employed in needlework. Thecells of the men are arranged in tiers, and are certainly verydifferent looking habitations to those of the women, and greatlyinferior in size and airiness to the cells at Philadelphia, where, inaddition to the grating in front of the cell, there was a door behindleading into a small enclosure or court. Here the only opening in thecell is by a door into a long gallery, and the cells were much smallerthan either at Philadelphia or at Kingston; but the prisoners onlyinhabit these cells at night, the solitary system not being adopted orapproved of here. The silent system, however, is practised here as at Kingston, and theprisoners are employed in large workshops, chiefly in makingagricultural instruments, hoops for casks, saddles, carpenters' tools, and even rocking horses and toys, which must be rather heart-breakingwork for those who have children. The men have certain tasks allottedthem, and when the day's work is done, may devote the rest of their timeto working on their own account, which most of them do; the chief wardentold us that he had lately paid a man, on his leaving the prison, ahundred and twenty-five dollars for extra work done in this way. Thewarden told us that the men, when discharged, were always strongly urgedto return to their own homes instead of seeking to retrieve theircharacters elsewhere, and that their doing so was generally attendedwith a better result than when they went to a new place and had no checkon their proceedings. This does away with the chief argument of ourquaker friend at Philadelphia, in favour of the solitary system, whichwas, that the prisoner's return to his friends became more easy, whennone of them knew that he had been in prison, of which they could notwell be ignorant if he had mixed with other prisoners in a public jail. It must be borne in mind, however, that the great demand in this countryfor work renders it much more easy for a person so circumstanced toobtain employment, even with a damaged character, than in England, whereour ticket-of-leave men find this almost impossible. There is also, weare told, a kinder feeling towards prisoners here on their leaving thejail than in England, and this saves them from the want and consequenttemptation to which our English ticket-of-leave men are exposed; theresult is that a much less proportion of those released in America arere-committed for new offences. We visited the workshops, and afterwards went into a large court to seethe men defile in gangs, and march into their dining hall, in which weafterwards saw them assembled at dinner, and a capital savoury dinnerit seemed to be. They have as much bread as they choose to eat, and meattwice a day; their drink is water, except when the doctor orders itotherwise. There are chaplains, called here Moral Instructors, who visitthem and perform the service in the chapel, and evening schools areprovided, at which the chaplains attend to teach reading, writing, andarithmetic. A library of books of general information is provided forthe prisoner's use, and to each a Bible is given, and they are allowedto buy sound and useful books. They have each a gas lamp in their cell, which enables them to read there when their work is done, and they areallowed to see their friends in the presence of an officer. Sixty of theprisoners were Negroes, which is a large proportion when compared withthe total numbers of the white and black population, especially as theblacks are often let off, owing to the leniency of the committingmagistrates who have compassion on their inferior intelligence; and itis owing, it is said, to a like leniency that there are so few females, though certainly not for the same reason. There are a large number ofIrish in the prison. Our next visit, still under Mr. Dennison's escort, was to the Capitol orState House, a very fine building of white limestone. The façade is morethan 300 feet long, and the height nearly 160 feet to the top of thedome. This however has not yet been completed. The architecture isGrecian. Here, as at Washington, are Halls for the Senate and House ofRepresentatives, in equally good taste and somewhat similarly arranged. Mr. Dennison, who had once been a member of the Senate, was repudiatingthe accounts so commonly given of the behaviour of the senators, whenMr. Niel came in, and over-hearing what he was saying, begged to remarkthat when they "went to work" they usually divested themselves of theircoats without substituting any senatorial garment in its place; andputting his legs on the desk before the chair, he declared that such wasthe usual posture in which they listened to the oratory of the place. [8] We afterwards went through the apartments appropriated to the Treasurerand Auditor of the State, the two chief officers of the Government, which are very capacious and well fitted up--and we were speciallyintroduced to both these functionaries; Mr. Neil, who is somewhat of awag, was rather jocose with them, and high as their position here is, they very cordially retaliated on him. We next went to thoseappropriated to the Governor of the State, General Chase, in order thatwe might be introduced to him, but he was out, which we regretted. He isa candidate to succeed Mr. Buchanan as President. The remainder of thebuilding was occupied by numerous committee-rooms, by the courts of law, the judges' apartments, a law library, and a beautiful room intended fora general library, but in which the collection of books at present isvery small. On the whole the building and its contents are verycreditable to this, the largest and wealthiest of the States in theWest, considering that forty years ago the country here was a wildforest region where no tree had been cut down. _25th October. _--We have seen Columbus well, and it has much to attractattention. On Saturday we went from the Capitol to the Lunatic Asylum, but excepting in its being more pleasingly arranged than the one atUtica, there was nothing very striking in its appearance. The galleriesin which the patients were walking were prettily decorated with flowerscut out in paper, giving it a very gay appearance; and when thepatients become desponding, they have a dance in the great hall, torevive them. The matron who went round with us said that the men andwomen conduct themselves on these occasions with perfect propriety. Themen and women are otherwise so entirely separated in this Asylum thatpapa went round to the men's wards with the doctor, while I was takenround by the matron to those appropriated to the women. We thought it apleasant, cheerful-looking place, considering the melancholy object towhich it is devoted. The next sight we saw was, the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb: beingSaturday, we could not see the mode of tuition, but we have gone throughit this morning, and yesterday we attended the afternoon service there, so that in our three visits we have been able to form a pretty good ideaof the system carried out. They have an alphabet by which they can spellwords, which they do by using one hand only. They speak thus withconsiderable rapidity, but this method is confined almost entirely toexpress proper names and words of uncommon use, as the wholeconversation is carried on in general by signs, and it was mostbeautiful to see the graceful manner in which the matron spoke to them. As this system of signs does not represent words, but _things_ and_ideas_, it has the great advantage of being universally understood whentaught, and as the same system is adopted in several countries ofEurope, in Norway and Sweden for example, a Norwegian and American childcan converse easily together without either knowing a syllable of theother's language. It seems quite as rapid as talking. We were present at the afternoon sermon, which lasted about half anhour, the subject being that of Simeon in the Temple, and except toexpress Simeon's name, there was no use at all made of the fingers. Dr. Stone, the principal, had preached in the morning on the subject ofDaniel's interpretation of Nebuchadnezzar's dream, and when we went, thechildren were being examined on the subject of this lecture. We _saw_ anumber of questions asked, but in this case the words were spelled inorder that Dr. Stone, who was teaching them, might be satisfied thatthey understood the full meaning of the question in its grammaticalsense, as well as its general signification, and the answers were allwritten down on large black boards. They wrote with prodigious rapidityin large distinct writing--and the answers, which were all different andshowed they were not got up by rote, were in most cases very good. Thiswas being done by the eldest class, and some of the elder boys and girlsseemed full of intelligence. We saw minutely only what was going on inthis and in the youngest class, which was no less remarkable, considering that some of the children had not been more than two orthree months in the Asylum, and when they came there had no idea ofeither reading or writing. When I say the youngest class, it is not with reference to the age ofthe pupils, but to the recent period of their admission, for some ofthem were as old in years as in the first class, while others were veryyoung; one of them, a very pretty little Jewish girl with sparklingintelligent eyes, was indeed a mere child. We had on Sunday seen thislittle girl being taught her lesson, which consisted of the simplewords, "I must be kind, " and it was very pretty to see the way in whichthe notion of kindness was conveyed by signs. This morning she waswriting this on the slate, and she afterwards wrote in a very neathandwriting a number of short words--cat, dog, horse, &c. --which weredictated to her by signs which were of so simple a nature that we couldunderstand many of them; a goat, for example, was represented by thefingers being stuck on each side of the head as horns, and then by theman drawing his hand down from his chin to indicate the beard. They thusbecame acquainted by signs with almost every object in the firstinstance, and are led on by degrees to complex ideas of every kind. Dr. Stone says that the use of signs is known in England, but he believes isnever practised to any extent, and certainly not in giving religiousinstruction. No attempt is made here, as in England, to teach them toarticulate, as he considered the attempt to do this to be a greatmistake, it being a painful effort to the child, which never leads toany good practical result. In some cases where deafness has beenaccidentally brought on after children have learned to speak, it is thenas far as possible kept up; but even then the effort, as we saw, wasvery painful. Our next visit was to the Blind Institution, but here there was nothingvery remarkable, though owing to the children not being in school we sawthe Institution very imperfectly. Raised characters are used here, as Ibelieve everywhere else; one little girl who was called up read andpronounced very well; we also heard some of them sing and play for aconsiderable time. The bulk of the children, or rather young people, forthey keep them here till they are one or two and twenty, were walkingabout the gardens invariably in pairs, which seems an excellentpreservative against accidents: this they do of their own accord. We next went to the Idiot Asylum, but the children being, as usual onSaturday, out of doors, we merely took a general look at the place, andreturned there this morning to see the system pursued for them more indetail. Dr. Patterson, the superintendent, is a man of wonderful energy;and two young women and a matron, the two young teachers especially, must be exemplary characters, for they appear to devote themselves totheir work with an energy and kindness which is perfectly marvellous, considering the apparently hopeless task they are engaged in. However, when taken young, from six to seven years of age, the capabilities ofthese poor children for improvement seem in general great, unless theinfirmity is occasioned by epileptic fits, when the cure is consideredalmost hopeless. We were entertained by a story told by Dr. Patterson ofa boy brought to him by the Mayor of C. , who told him it was a bad case, but that he would be satisfied if he could fit him to be a missionary. Dr. P. Replied that he could not answer for that, but that he could atall events fit him to be Mayor of C. The great means resorted to for improvement is constant occupation, changed every quarter of an hour through out the day. By this meanstheir physical power at night is nearly exhausted, and they invariablysleep well; where no greater improvement is arrived at, they can in allcases gain cleanly habits, and get entirely rid of that repulsiveappearance which an idiot left to himself is almost sure at last toacquire. Active exercises are what they resort to in the first instance;they have a large school-room fitted up with ladders and gymnasticapparatus of all kinds. We saw little boys, who shortly before werescarcely able to stand alone, climbing places which made me tremble fortheir safety, but it was curious to observe with what caution they didit. When we entered the room the youngest class were all standing round apiano, at which one of the teachers was playing, whilst she and theother teacher were leading them on in singing a cheerful song, and itwas really quite touching to hear and see them; they sang very fairly, not worse than children usually do at that age. After a quarter of anhour of this they went through their Calisthenic exercises, marching inperfect time, clapping their hands, and going through differentgestures with great accuracy, and these poor children a very few monthsago had hardly any control over their actions. Another thing taught is, to distinguish colour and form--for whichpurpose they have cards cut out into circles, squares, and octagons--andother marked shapes, of every variety and shade of colour. Five or sixof these of different sorts were spread on the table, and a largeunsorted pack was placed before a little boy five or six years old, andit was quite interesting to see him proceed to sort them by placing eachone on the top of the counterpart which had been placed at first on thetable. As there were many more kinds in the pack than those spread outon the table, when he came to a new one he first placed it in contactwith the others to see if it suited, and after going round them all andseeing that none were the same, he appeared puzzled, and at last set itdown in a place by itself. Although there was a certain degree ofvacancy in the expression of the child, it seemed quite to brighten upat each successive step, and the occupation was evidently a source ofconsiderable enjoyment to him. This little fellow had been a very shorttime in the Asylum, and when admitted had not the slightest idea ofform, colour, or size. Another mode adopted is, to take little blocks of wood of differentsizes and forms, which the child is required to fit into correspondingholes cut out in a board. All this is for the least advanced pupils. They learn afterwards to read and write, and some of the very littleones traced lines upon a board as well as most children could do withall their senses about them. The elder ones could write short words andread easy books; they are taught to read by having short words like cow, dog, ox, printed on cards, and are then shown by a picture what thewords represent, and they are not taught their letters or to spell wordstill they begin to learn to write; the elementary books thereforeconsist chiefly of words representing ideas quite independently of theletters of which the words are formed. Many, however, can never fullyobtain the power of speech, and that without any physical defect intheir organs, and without the accompaniment of deafness, for they hearperfectly. In these instances to teach them to speak is very difficult, and sometimes hopeless. The poor little boy whom we saw sorting hiscards, was one of those cases in which no articulate sound had ever beenuttered, or could be produced by any teaching. At the same time thedevelopment of his head, and that of many others, was almost perfectand quite a beau ideal of what a head should be. I forgot in speaking of the deaf and dumb to mention that their cryingand laughter were quite like those of other children, and it appears tobe the same with the idiots, even though they cannot speak. There wasamong the idiots one boy in irons to support his legs, which wereotherwise quite without power, and he seemed under this treatment to berapidly improving. They all have meat twice a day, and great care istaken to feed them generously. The only other sight in Columbus is theMedical College, which, however, we had no time to go over. We must, however, except the Governor's house, not forgetting its inmates, Governor Chase himself, and his interesting daughter. We had beenintroduced to the Governor by Mr. Dennison, after missing him onSaturday at the Capitol, and he most kindly asked us to drink tea andspend the evening with him, apologising for time not permitting hisdaughter to call upon us. He is Governor of the State of Ohio, an officethat is held for two years. He is a first-rate man in talent andcharacter, --a strong abolitionist, and a thorough gentleman in hisappearance--showing that the active and adventurous habits of hisnation are quite consistent with the highest polish and refinement. Heis deeply involved in the politics of his country, and, as I saidbefore, is a candidate for the next presidentship. His strong views onthe question of slavery will probably be a bar to his success, butunfortunately another hindrance may be that very high social characterfor which he is so remarkable. To judge at least by the treatment ofsuch men as Henry Clay, and others of his stamp, it would appear as ifreal merit were a hindrance rather than a help to the attainment of thehighest offices in America. [9] The Governor's house looked externally something like an English rectorystanding in a little garden, and we were at first shown into a smallsitting-room. It seems the fashion all over America, as it is abroad, toleave the space open in the middle of the room, and the chairs and sofasarranged round the walls, but there is always a good carpet of livelycolours or a matting in summer, and not the bare floor so constantlyseen in France and Germany. The little gathering consisted of theGovernor, his two daughters (his only children), his niece, and hissister, Mr. Dennison, and Mr. Barnay, a clever New York lawyer, withwhom we had crossed the Atlantic. But if the Governor recommendedhimself to us as a gentleman, what am I to say of his daughter? Papa hasgone out and has left her description to me, whereas he could give amuch more lively one, as he at once lost his heart to her. Her figure istall and slight, but at the same time beautifully rounded; her neck longand graceful, with a sweet pretty brunette face. I seldom have seen suchlovely eyes and dark eyelashes; she has rich dark hair in greatprofusion, but her style and dress were of the utmost simplicity andgrace, and I almost forgave papa for at once falling in love with her. Her father has been three times a widower, though not older-looking thanpapa, and with good reason he worships his daughter. She has been at thehead of her father's house for the last six months, and the _naïve_importance she attached to her office gave an additional attraction toher manners. While we sat talking in the little room the Governor handedme a white and red rose as being the last of the season. He had placedthem ready for me in a glass, and I have dried them as a memorial ofthat pleasant evening. We soon went into the dining-room, where tea andcoffee were laid out on a light oak table, with an excellent _compôte_of apples, a silver basket full of sweet cakes, of which the Americansare very fond: bread--alas! always cut in slices whether at the hotelsor in private, fresh butter, --an improvement on the usual salt butter ofthe country, and served, as it generally is, in silver perforated dishesto allow of the water from the ice to drain through, and a large tureenof cream toast. This is also a common dish, being simply slices of toastsoaked in milk or cream and served hot. It often appears at the hotels, but there it is milk toast, and is not so good. I thought the creamtoast excellent, and a great improvement on our bread and milk inEngland, but papa did not like it. The Governor and his fair daughterpresided at the table, the Governor first saying grace very reverently, and we had a very pleasant repast. After this we were conducted to the drawing-room. Such a _bijou_ of aroom! The size was about twenty feet by eighteen, and the walls andceiling, including doors, window-frames, and shutters--there were nocurtains, might have been all made of the purest white china. It is amost peculiar and desirable varnish which is used on their wood-workthat gives this effect. Mr. Tyson told us that it is made of Canadabalsam, and that it comes therefore from our own territory, so that itis very stupid of Cubitt and others not to make use of it. The effect islike what the white wood-work of our drawing-room was when it was firstfinished, and you may imagine the appearance of the whole room beingdone with this fine white polish everywhere. We see it in all the hotelsand railway carriages, so that it cannot be expensive. The windows werepointed, and the shutters were made to slide into the walls. They wereshut on that evening, and were made, as they often are, with a smallpiece of Venetian blind-work let into them, also painted white. If wehad called in the morning we should probably have found the room innearly total darkness, as we found to be the case at Mr. Neil's, for thedear Americans seem too much afraid of their sun. There was a whitemarble table in the centre of this drawing-room, and the room was welllighted with gas. The only ornament was a most lovely ideal head inmarble by Power, the sculptor of the Greek slave. The simplicity andbeauty of the room could not be surpassed, and we spent a mostinteresting evening. The father and daughter we found to be full of intelligence andknowledge of our best authors, though neither of them has ever been inEngland. Miss Chase is much interested in a new conservatory, took meover it, and gave me several very pretty things to dry. I shallendeavour to get cuttings or seeds of them. I was generous enough toallow papa afterwards to go over the conservatory alone with her. She islonging to come and see England, but her father is too busy at presentto leave the country. She expressed such sorrow not to know more of us, that we promised to call this morning after our "asylum" work was done, when she showed us over the house, which is very pretty, and nicelyarranged throughout. I think I have nothing more to say of Columbus, except that we heard twosermons and _saw_ one on Sunday; for, besides the morning sermon at theEpiscopal Church, and the _sign_ one to the deaf and dumb, we looked inat another where a negro was preaching to his fellow niggers with greatenergy and life; but the ladies were quiet, and restrained their agoniesand their "glory. " _Cincinnati, Oct. 27th. _--We left Columbus at forty minutes past twelveyesterday. Mr. Dennison and Mr. Neil's son met us at the station, andMr. Neil gave me some dried red leaves he had promised me, which havekept their colour tolerably well. Mr. D. Is president of the railroadon which we were about to travel, and wished to give us free tickets tothis place, but papa declined with many thanks. Papa has no sort ofclaim or connection with this railway, and I only mention thecircumstance to show the extreme kindness and liberality of thesegentlemen, who knew nothing of us, and probably had never heard ournames until they had received letters of introduction about us fromothers, who were themselves equally strangers to us a few days ago. Theyintroduced us to the freight agent of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, who travelled with us, as did also a clever handsome widow. She seemedto be well connected, being related to General Cass and other people ofnote. She reminds me a little of Mrs. B. In style and manner, and it ispleasant to have some one to talk to, for we do not find people ingeneral communicative in travelling, though papa says the fault may beours. There was nothing particularly pretty on the road, as the trees are, Igrieve to say, losing their leaves in this neighbourhood; but onapproaching this great city, "the Queen of the West, " we came again onthe Ohio. The water is now very low, but the bed of the river shows howgreat its width is when full; and even now there is a perfect navy ofsplendid steamers floating on its waters, many of which we saw as ourtrain drove through the suburban streets of the city. Unhappily the rainpoured down upon us as we got into the omnibus, but we were soonconsoled by finding ourselves in this most magnificent hotel, the finestI have yet seen. The drawing room, is I should think, unsurpassed inbeauty by any hotel anywhere, and I shall endeavour to make a drawing ofit before I leave. The hotel at Columbus was tolerably large, as you maysuppose, when I tell you that our dining room there was about ninetyfeet by thirty. This one, however, has two dining rooms of at leastequal dimensions, which together can dine 1000 persons, and it makes up600 beds. We sat in the drawing room yesterday evening, for we could notreconcile ourselves to leave it, even to write this journal. There werevarious ladies and gentlemen laughing and talking together, but noevening dresses, and nothing of any importance to remark about them. Oneyoung lady only was rather grandly dressed in a drab silk; sheafterwards sat down to the piano, and began the usual American jingle, for I cannot call it music; and I have since been told she was thedaughter of the master of the house. "Egalité" is certainly the order ofthe day here, and this young lady was treated quite on an equality withthe other ladies in the room. The food is excellent, and we are verythankful to have so luxurious a resting place if we are at all detainedhere. We have several friends in the hotel, who are here to meet papa onbusiness. This morning we have had a visit from Mr. Mitchell, the astronomer, andauthor of the work on Astronomy, which I remember reading with pleasurejust before I left England. His daughter is to call on me and drive usout, and we are to pay a visit to his observatory. We went thisafternoon to leave some letters, which Mr. Dennison had given us for Mr. Rufus King and Mr. Lars Anderson. We found Mrs. King at home; herhusband is much devoted to educational subjects and to the fine arts. There were some very good pictures and engravings in the drawing room, and amongst the latter two of Sir Robert Strange's performances. Wefound both Mr. And Mrs. Anderson at home; they live in a splendid house, but as it was getting dark we could not see the details. We sent in ourcards with our letter, and the room being full of people, Mr. Andersonintroduced papa to each one separately, and me as Mrs. S----. As theseguests went out others came in, and fresh introductions took place, butstill always Mr. T---- and Mrs. S----, and he so addressed me during thevisit. As we were going away papa said that he was making some strangemistake about my name, but he insisted upon it that we had so announcedit; and on looking at our cards I found the card of a very vulgar ladyat New York, which I had given by mistake as my own. As we were leaving the room, a very amiable and pleasing person asked meif I would not call upon Mr. Longworth, the most celebrated character inthis country, who she said was her father and the father of Mrs. Anderson. I said that we had letters to him from Mr. Jared Sparks, andthat we had meant to call on him the next day, but she said we hadbetter return with her then. We accordingly accompanied her through Mr. Anderson's garden, and through an adjoining one which led to herfather's house, likewise a very large one, though not presenting such anarchitectural appearance as Mr. Anderson's. The old gentleman soon madehis appearance, and afterwards Mrs. Longworth. They were a mostvenerable couple, who had a twelve-month ago celebrated their goldenmarriage, or fiftieth anniversary of their wedding day. We were invitedto stay and drink tea, which we did, and met a large assemblage ofchildren and grand-children; a great-grand-child who had been presentat the golden wedding, was in its nursery. Mr. Longworth, among other things remarkable about him, is theproprietor of the vineyards from which the sparkling champagne isproduced, known, from the name of the grape, as the sparkling Catawba;but he seems no less remarkable from the immense extent of hisstrawberry beds, which cover, I think he said, 60 acres of ground. Hetold us the number of bushels of fruit they daily produce in the season;but the number is legion, and I dare not set it down from memory. Heshowed papa a book he had written about his grapes and strawberries, andis very incredulous as to any in the world being better than his. Thisled to a discussion upon the relative size of trees and plants on thetwo sides of the Atlantic; and in speaking of the Indian corn, he tellsus he has seen it standing, in Ohio, eighteen feet high, and he says ithas been known, in Kentucky, to reach as high as twenty-five feet, andthe ear eighteen inches long. The old gentleman is a diminutive-looking person, with a coat so shabbythat one would be tempted to offer him a sixpence if we met him in thestreets; indeed a story is told of a stranger, who, going into hisgarden, and being shown round it by Mr. Longworth, gave him a dollar, which the latter good-humouredly put into his pocket, and it was nottill he was asked to go into the house that the stranger discovered himto be the owner. [10] He is, however, delightfully vivacious, and full ofagricultural hobbies. His wife is a very pleasing, primitive-lookingperson. We tasted at their house some of the ham for which this city, called by the wits Porkopolis, is so remarkable. The maple sugar is usedin curing it, and improves the flavour very much. _October 28th. _--I must bring this letter to a rapid close, for it mustbe posted a day earlier than we expected. We intend to start in two daysfor St. Louis, and there I will finish my account of Cincinnati. To-daywe have seen a great many schools, which have given us considerableinsight into the state of education in America. My next letter willprobably bring us to our most western point, though we have not yetquite settled whether we shall go to the Falls of St. Anthony, or toChicago. Papa says I must close, and I must obey. FOOTNOTES: [8] Though this description of the Senate was meant as a good-humouredsatire on the absence of etiquette in their assemblies, it is probablyno very exaggerated account of what is sometimes seen there; but itwould be most unfair to draw any conclusion from this as to thebehaviour in general society of well-educated gentlemen in America, there being as much real courtesy among these as is found in any othercountry, though certainly not always accompanied by the refinements ofpolished society in Europe. [9] It is not meant here to obtrude special views of politics, or tomaintain that democratic principles have naturally this tendency; but itmay help to explain why so little is heard or known in England of thebetter class of Americans. Their unobtrusive mode of life entirelyaccounts for this, and it is to be regretted that it is the noisydemagogue who forms the type of the American as known to the generalityof the European public. [10] I should not have taken the liberty of printing this account of Mr. Longworth were he not, in a manner, a public character, well knownthroughout the length and breadth of the land, and his eccentricitiesare as familiar to every one at Cincinnati as his goodness of heart. Inspeaking, too, of his family, it is most gratifying to be able to recordthe patriarchal way in which we found him and Mrs. Longworth, surroundedby their descendants to the third generation. If any apology is required, the same excuse--of his being a well-knownpublic character--may be made for saying so much of Governor Chase andof his family. LETTER X. CINCINNATI. --MR. LONGWORTH. --GERMAN POPULATION---"OVER THE RHINE. "--ENVIRONS OF CINCINNATI. --GARDENS. --FRUITS. --COMMON SCHOOLS. --JOURNEY TO ST. LOUIS. Vincennes, Indiana, Nov. 1st, 1858. My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Cincinnati, and ourpassing the evening at Mr. Longworth's on the following day. Next day, Wednesday the 27th, Mrs. Anderson, Mr. Longworth's daughter, called andasked us to spend that evening also at her mother's house. She took meout in her carriage in the morning to see some of the best shops, whichwere equal to some of our best London ones in extent and in the value ofthe goods; and in the course of the day we called at Monsieur Raschig's;he not being at home, we made an appointment to call there late in theevening. The party at the Longworths was confined to the members of their largefamily, all of whom are very agreeable. There were two marrieddaughters, Mrs. Flagg and Mrs. Anderson, and the grandson and hiswife, Mr. And Mrs. Stettinius; and we also saw the littlegreat-grand-daughter, who is a pretty child of eighteen months. Thedining-room not being long enough to accommodate us all at tea, thetable was placed diagonally across the room, and it was surprising tosee Mrs. Longworth pouring out tea and coffee for the whole party asvigorously as if she were eighteen years old, her age being seventy-two. She is remarkably pretty, with a fair complexion, and a very attractiveand gentle manner and face. We had quails and Cincinnati hams, also oysters served in threedifferent ways--stewed, fried in butter, and in their natural state, buttaken out of their shells and served _en masse_ in a large dish. Ourfriends were astonished that we did not like these famous oysters oftheirs in any form, which we did not, they being very huge in size andstrong in flavour. We said, too, we did not like making two bites of anoyster; they pitied our want of taste, and lamented over our miserablysmall ones in England. After tea we saw some sea-weed and autumnalleaves beautifully dried and preserved by Mrs. Flagg, and we alsolooked over an illustrated poem on the subject of Mr. And Mrs. Longworth's golden wedding, the poem being the composition of Mr. Flagg. Towards ten o'clock a table was laid out in the drawing-room with theirCatawba champagne, which was handed round in tumblers, followed by pilesof Vanilla ice a foot and a half high. There were two of these towers ofBabel on the table, and each person was given a supply that would haveserved for half a dozen in England; the cream however is so light inthis country that a great deal more can be taken of it than in England;ices are extremely good and cheap all over America; even in very smalltowns they are to be had as good as in the large ones. Water ices orfruit ices are rare; they are almost always of Vanilla cream. In summera stewed peach is sometimes added. We left the Longworths that evening in a down pour of rain, so that papaonly got out for a minute at the door of Miss Raschig's uncle, and askedhim to breakfast with us next morning. He accordingly came; we found hima most quick, lively, and excellent man, full of intelligence, and hereceived us with the warmth and ardour of an old friend, having duringthe twenty-five years he has been in America scarcely ever seen any onewho knew any of his relatives. He is a Lutheran minister, and has alarge congregation of Germans. He said a good deal had been going onduring the revivals at Cincinnati, and he thought the feeling shown wasof a satisfactory kind; there had been preaching in tents opposite hischurch. The part of the town where he resides beyond the Miami Canal, whichdivides it into two portions, is known by the name of "Over the Rhine, "and is inhabited almost entirely by Germans, of whom there are no lessthan 60, 000 in the town. Mr. Raschig's own family consists of nine sonsand one daughter, the youngest child being a fortnight old. We went tosee them before we left the place, and found the mother as excellent andagreeable as himself, with her fine little baby in her arms. She saidthat boys were much easier disposed of than girls in this country, andtheir three eldest sons are already getting their livelihood, the eldestof all being married. We saw the third son, a very intelligent youth, who is a teacher in one of the schools in the town, and the daughter, apleasing girl of fourteen, sung to us. She promises to have a goodvoice, though it will never equal her cousin's. On the evening of the 28th we went by invitation to Mr. And Mrs. King's. He is a lawyer, and they are connected by marriage with theNeils of Columbus and with the Longworths. The Andersons were there, andwe again had a liberal supply of ices. The following evening, the 29th, we went to the Andersons, where there was a large party consisting ofthe Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, with whom, by thebye, I had dined that day at the hotel, there being ten gentlemen andmyself, the only lady, at table. The party at the Andersons was also anassemblage of some of the beau monde of Cincinnati. The ladies were alldressed in high silk dresses remarkably well made, and looking as ifthey all had come straight from Paris. I never saw a large party ofprettier or better chosen toilettes. The dresses were generally of richbrocaded silk, but there was nothing to criticise, and all were inperfect taste. We assembled in a long drawing-room carpeted, andsufficiently supplied with chairs, but there being neither tables norcurtains, the room had rather a bare appearance, though it was welllighted and looked brilliant. Towards ten o'clock we were handed intothe dining-room, where there was a standing supper of oysters, --the"institution" of oysters as they justly call it, --hot quails, ham, ices, and most copious supplies of their beloved Catawba champagne, which wedo not love, for it tastes, to our uninitiated palates, little betterthan cider. It was served in a large red punch-bowl of Bohemian glass inthe form of Catawba cobbler, which I thought improved it; but betweenthe wine and the quails, which, from over hospitable kindness, wereforced on poor papa, he awoke the next morning with a bad headache, anddid not get rid of it all day. The weather during our stay at Cincinnati was so wet that, with theexception of a drive which Mr. Anderson took us to some little distanceon the heights above, and a long visit which we paid to the school underMr. King's auspices, we had little out-door work to occupy us. I once, however, and papa twice, crossed the Ohio in a steamboat, and took awalk in the opposite slave state of Kentucky. The view thence of thetown and its fleet of steamboats is very striking. The opposite hills, with the observatory perched on the highest summit, were very fine. Mr. Anderson one day took us a long drive to the top of these hills; thewhole country, especially near a village called Clifton, about six milesfrom the town, is studded with villas. We drove through the grounds oftwo which overlooked splendid views of the neighbouring country; each ofthem being situated at the end of a sort of natural terrace projectinginto the valley, and thus commanding a panoramic view all round. The grounds attached to these villas are of considerable extent, butnothing has surprised us more than the poverty of the gardens inAmerica. It may, however, be accounted for by the difficulty and expenseof obtaining labour in this country, and by the consequent facility withwhich men who show any talent, and are really industrious, can advancethemselves. A scientific gardener, therefore, if any such there be, would not long remain in that capacity. One of the houses had a reallyfine-looking conservatory attached to it, but, like others we have seenin the course of our travels, it was almost entirely given up to rockeryand ferns. This is a degree better than when the owners indulge instatuary. We were made by the driver on another occasion to stop at agarden ornamented in this way, but certainly Hiram Power's talents hadnot been called into request, and the statues were of the mostcommon-place order. It is not only in their gardens, however, but in the general ornamentalcultivation of their grounds, that the Americans are deficient, foreven at Newport, where we greatly admired, as I think I mentioned, thegreenness of the grass, it was coarse in quality, and bore no sort ofresemblance to a well-trimmed English lawn. Nor have we ever seen anyfruit, with the exception of their apples, to compare to ours inEngland. These are certainly very fine. I hardly know the weight of anEnglish apple, but at Columbus we got some which were brought from theborders of Lake Erie which are called the twenty-ounce apple. The one weate weighed about sixteen ounces, and measured thirteen inches round. They are said to weigh sometimes as much as twenty-seven ounces. It iswhat they call a "fall, " meaning an autumnal, apple. [11] Next to their apples their pears deserve notice; but, though better thanours, they are not superior to those produced in France. The quantity offruit, however, is certainly great, for the peaches are standard andgrown in orchards; but they are quite uncultivated, and the greater partthat we met with were hardly fit to eat. They are, notwithstanding, very proud of their fruit, especially of these said peaches and of theirgrapes, which, to our minds, were just as objectionable productions. There is one kind called the Isabella, which we thought mostdisagreeable to eat, for the moment the skin is broken by the teeth andthe grape squeezed the whole inner part pops out in a solid mass intothe mouth. We are past the season of wild flowers; but these must makethe country very beautiful in the early spring, to judge from theprofusion of rhododendron and other shrubs, which were most luxuriant, especially where we crossed the Alleghanies and along the banks of theConnecticut. To return, however, to our drive. After visiting these villas we passed a great number of charitableinstitutions for the relief of the poor, who are remarkably well lookedafter in this country. One of these institutions was the Reformatory, alarge building, where young boys are sent at whatever age they may provedelinquents, and are kept and well educated till they are twenty-one. But the grand mode in which the state provides against crime of allkinds is the system of education for all classes. I have said we went under Mr. King's guidance to see the common schoolsof Cincinnati. These are divided into three classes, called thedistrict schools, the intermediate schools, and the high schools; wewent through each grade, and were much pleased with the proficiency ofthe pupils. The examinations they went through in mental arithmetic werevery remarkable, and the questions put to the boys of the intermediateclass, who were generally from eleven to thirteen years old, wereanswered in a very creditable manner. In the high school, the teaching is carried on till the pupils reach theage of sixteen or seventeen, and even eighteen, after which they eitherleave school altogether or go to college. They are generally thechildren of artisans or mechanics, but boys of all ranks are admitted, and are moved on from one grade to another. The schools are entirelyfree, and girls are admitted as well as boys, and in about equalnumbers. The girls and boys are taught, for the most part, in separaterooms, but repeat their lessons and are examined together, so that thereis a constant passing in and out from one class-room to another, butstill great order is preserved. This assembling together, however, oflarge numbers of boys and girls, for so considerable a portion of theday, did not strike us as so desirable as it is there said to be. Theadvocates of the system say it refines the rough manners of the boys;but it is more than questionable if the characters of the girls areimproved by it, and if the practice, in its general results, can bebeneficial. The subjects taught to both boys and girls are invariably the same; andit was curious to hear girls translating Cicero into excellent English, and parsing most complicated sentences, just like the boys, and veryoften in better style, for they often answered when the boys could not. They seemed chiefly girls from sixteen to eighteen. They answered, also, most difficult questions in logic, and they learn a good deal ofastronomy, chemistry, &c. , and have beautiful laboratories andinstruments. Music is also taught in a very scientific way, so as toafford a knowledge of the transpositions of the keys, but in spite ofthis, their music and singing are very American. German and French arealso taught in the schools when required. The teachers, both men and women, have very good salaries; the youngestwomen beginning with 60_l. _ and rising to 120_l. _ a year, while themen's salaries rise up to 260_l. _ a year, and that in the intermediateor second class schools. This style of education may appear too advancedfor girls in their rank of life, but in this country, where they getdispersed, and may attain a good position in a distant district, thetone thus given by education to the people, is of great importance. Theeducating of the females in this way must give them great powers, andopen to them a field of great usefulness in becoming teachers themselveshereafter. The education given is altogether secular, and they professto try and govern "by appeals to the nobler principles of their nature, "as we gather from a report which was put into our hands at leaving. This is but a weak basis for a sound education, and I cannot but thinkits insufficiency is even here practically, and perhaps unconsciously, acknowledged; for, though no direct religious instruction is professedlygiven, a religious tone is nevertheless attempted to be conveyed in thelessons. At the opening of the school, a portion of the Bible is readdaily in each class; and the pupils are allowed to read such versions ofthe Scriptures as their parents may prefer, but no marginal readings areallowed, nor may any comments be made by the teachers. [12] We left Cincinnati this morning in the car appropriated to the use ofthe Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, on which line we aretravelling. It is neatly fitted up with little "state" rooms, with sofasall round. There were four of these, besides a general saloon in themiddle; but the whole was greatly inferior to the elegance of Mr. Tyson's car on the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. Our party consisted ofabout thirty persons, of whom four were judges, and about a third of thenumber were ladies, accompanying their liege lords, and chiefly asked inhonour of me, to prevent my being "an unprotected female" among such ahost of gentlemen. An ordinary car was attached to that of theDirectors, for the use of any smokers of the party. We left Cincinnatiat half-past eight, and reached this place, Vincennes, where we are tosleep, at about six o'clock. The road was very pretty, though the leaveswere nearly all off the trees; the forms of the trees were, however, lovely, and it was quite a new description of country to us, theclearings being recent and still very rough in appearance, and thelog-houses, in most places, of a most primitive kind. Vincennes, wherewe are to sleep, is an old town of French origin, prettily situated onthe river Wabash, which we can see from our windows. _St. Louis, November 4th. _--We came on here on the 2nd instant, and soonafter leaving Vincennes found ourselves in a prairie, but it was nottill after sixty miles that we got to the Grand Prairie, which wetraversed for about sixty more. The vastness, however, of this prairie, consists in its length from north to south, in which it stretchesthrough nearly the whole length of the State. These prairies areenormous plains of country, covered, at this time, by a long browngrass, in which are the seed-vessels and remains of innumerable flowers, which are said to be most lovely in their form and colour in the spring. It was disappointing only to see the dark remains of what must have beensuch a rich parterre of flowers. One of our party, Colonel Reilly, ofTexas, who had seen our Crystal Palace gardens at Sydenham, in fullflower, said that they reminded him of the prairies in the spring. Theground is so level, that the woods on the horizon had the effect thatthe first sight of the dark line of land has at sea. In many places nearthe road on each side, small farms were established, and good-sizedfields of Indian corn were growing; and wherever there was a railwaystation, a town, or even a "city" with one or two churches, and anhotel, besides grocery stores and wooden buildings of various kinds, were in progress in this immense wilderness. The rain poured down incessantly, giving the country a melancholy andforlorn appearance. Towards the latter part of our journey, we descendedinto and traversed the great valley of the Mississippi. We passedseveral coal-mines, and here, where the vein of coal is eight feetthick, the land, including the coal, may be bought for one pound anacre. The country soon assumed the appearance of a great swamp, and ismost unhealthy, being full of fever and ague. At length our train stopped, and we were ushered into omnibuses ofenormous length, drawn by four horses, and two of these caterpillar-likelooking vehicles were driven on to the steam-ferry, and in thisunromantic way we steamed across the great Father of Waters, and a mostunpoetic and unromantic river it appeared to be. There is nothing inits width here to strike the eye or the imagination, though its depth isvery great, and it has risen ten feet within the last week. But itappeared to us ugly and inconsiderable after the wide, rapid, clear, andmagnificent St. Lawrence. We were driven through a sea of mud and mireto this large and comfortable hotel, and were shortly afterwards seatedat table with the rest of our party. I forgot to mention that, at Vincennes, seven sportsmen had been out allday, before we arrived, to procure game for us, and were muchdisappointed at not being able to get us any prairie hens, which are ahumble imitation of grouse, though Americans are pleased to considerthem better than that best of birds; but "comparisons are odious, " andthe prairie-hens are very praiseworthy and good in their way. We had, however, abundance of venison and quails, and the same fare met us here, with large libations of champagne. The owner of our hotel at Cincinnatitravelled with us, and looked as much like a gentleman as the rest ofthe party; and we have been joined here in our private drawing-room bythe landlord and landlady of this hotel. Not knowing at first who theywere, papa turned round to the former, and asked him if he knew St. Louis, and had been long here, to which our friend replied, "Yes, sir;I have lived here eighteen years, and am the master of this hotel. "Yesterday our dinner was even better than on the day of our arrival, closing with four or five omelettes soufflées, worthy of Paris, and thesame number of pyramids of Vanilla ice. So much for the progress ofcivilisation across the Mississippi. We paddled about in the muddy streets yesterday, and looked in at theshop-windows. We found even here plenty of hoop petticoats, and oftempting-looking bookseller's shops. Our hotel is close to theCourt-house, a handsome building of limestone, with a portico and acupola in process of building, being a humble imitation of the one atWashington. Yesterday evening, one or two of the gentlemen amused usafter dinner with some nigger songs, ending, I suppose out of complimentto us, with "God save the Queen. " I studied the toilette of one of ourparty this morning--the only young unmarried lady among us. I had oftenseen the same sort of dress at the hotels, but never such a goodspecimen as this. It is called here the French morning robe or wrapper, and this one was made of crimson merino, with a wide shawl borderinghalf-way up the depth of the skirt. The skirt is quite open in front, displaying a white petticoat with an embroidered bordering. The body ofthe wrapper was formed in the old-fashioned way, with a neck-piece, withtrimmings of narrow shawl borderings; there was no collar at all, thecrimson merino coming against the neck without any break of even a frillof white. The sleeves were very large, of the latest fashion, with whiteunder sleeves, and the waist was very short, confined with a red band ofmerino. These dresses are very common in the morning, and are, Ibelieve, thought to be very elegant. They are frequently made like this, of some violent coloured merino, and often of silk, with trimmings ofanother coloured ribbon. Having digressed so far from my account of St. Louis, I will go back fora few minutes to Cincinnati, to describe the grand fire-engines we sawthere, with horses all ready harnessed. One particular engine, in whichthe water was forced up by steam, could have its steam up and be readyfor action in three minutes from its time of starting, and long, therefore, in all probability before it reached the place where itsservices were required. These engines all had stags' horns placed in aprominent position in front, as a sign of swiftness, and on thisparticular one there was printed under the horns, "Sure Thing, 287feet, " meaning that it could throw the water that height. Another hadon it, "243 feet. Beat that!" the Americans being very laconic in alltheir public communications. The regular plan on which most of theAmerican towns are built and the division into wards, give greatfacilities for showing where a fire takes place; balls are shown fromthe top of a high tower to direct the engines where to go, the number ofballs pointing out the ward where the fire exists. Another grand invention, which we found here as well as everywhere else, is their sewing machine. These sewing machines wearied us very much whenwe landed at New York, for they seemed to be the one idea of the wholecountry; and I am afraid we formed some secret intentions to havenothing to do with them. I had seen them in a shop window in the City, in London, but knowing nothing of their merits, almost settled in my ownmind they had none. At last I found how blind I had been, and whatwonderful machines they are. There are numbers of them of variousdegrees of excellence. They are so rapid in their work, that if a dresswithout flounces is tacked together, it can be made easily by themachine in a morning: a lady here showed me how the machine is used; shetold me it is so fascinating that she should like to sit at it all day. She works for her family, consisting of a husband and nine sons, andtakes the greatest pleasure in making all their under clothing; andworking as she does, not very constantly, she can easily do as much assix sempstresses, while the machine, constantly worked, could do as muchas twelve. The work is most true and beautiful and rapid, and themachine must be an invaluable aid where there is a large family. It ismuch used also by tailors and shoemakers, for it can be used with allqualities of materials, whether fine or thick. The price of one is from15_l. _ to 25_l. _ It requires a little practice to work at it, but mostAmerican ladies who have large families possess one, and dressmakers usethem a great deal. _November 4th. _--To return to this town of mud and mire, we have beennearly up to our knees in both to-day, and went on board one of thelarge steamers, but found it was not nearly so grandly fitted up as theone in which we went from New York to Newport. There is an enormousfleet of steamers here, but the Mississippi still looked most dingy, muddy, and melancholy. We were given tickets this evening, to hear arecitation by a poet named Saxe, of a poem of his own, on the Press, andwe soon found ourselves in an enormous hall about 100 feet by 80, nearly filled by a very intelligent-looking audience. A man near us toldus that Mr. Saxe had a European reputation, which made us feel muchashamed of our ignorance, in never having heard of him before, and, unhappily, we came away no wiser than we went as regards the merits ofhis poetry; for though our seats were near him, there was somethingeither in the form of the hall, or in the nature of his voice andpronunciation, which made us unable to hear what he said. There werebursts of laughter and applause at times from the audience, but we tookthe first opportunity of leaving. As we walked home, we passed a brilliantly-lighted confectioner's shop, where we each had an ice, but they were too sweet, and after eating andcriticising them, we came to another confectioner's, when papa insistedupon going in, and ordered two more ices, which were very good. We werepresented here with filtered water, the usual drinking water in thistown being something of the colour of dingy lemonade, though its tasteis good. We purpose going to-morrow. .. . I turn to ask papa where--and he shakeshis head, and says he does not know. On my pressing for a more distinctanswer, he says, "Up the Missouri at all events. " This sounds vague, but I believe before night we shall be on our way to Chicago, and shallthus have taken leave of the "far west. " And now I must take my leave ofyou for the present, though I fear this is but a dull chapter of thejournal. FOOTNOTES: [11] As an instance of the ingenious devices used to save labour in thiscountry, we may mention a machine for paring apples, which we bought inthe streets at Boston for twenty cents, or about 10_d. _ English. Byturning a handle it can perform, simultaneously, the operations ofpeeling the apple, cutting out the core, and slicing it. [12] For fear that we may have misinterpreted what is said above, wethink it advisable, as the matter is a most important one, and one thatmay interest others, to extract from the report the passage on whichthese observations were founded; for it is not a clear specimen ofAmerican composition, and might, therefore, easily become a subject ofmisrepresentation:-- "The Opening Exercises in every Department shall commence by the readingof a portion of the Bible, by or under the direction of the teacher, andappropriate singing by the pupils. "The pupils of the Common Schools may read such version of the SacredScriptures as their parents or guardians may prefer, provided that suchpreference of any version except the one now in use be communicated bythe parents or guardians to the Principal Teachers, and that no notes ormarginal readings be read in the school, or comments made by theTeachers on the text of any version that is or may be introduced. " LETTER XI. ST. LOUIS. --JEFFERSON CITY. --RETURN TO ST. LOUIS. --ALTON. --SPRINGFIELD. --FIRES ON THE PRAIRIES. --CHICAGO. --GRANARIES. --PACKING HOUSES. --LAKE MICHIGAN. --ARRIVAL AT INDIANAPOLIS. Jefferson City, on the Missouri, Nov. 6th, 1858. Here we are really in the Far West, more than 150 miles from thejunction of the Missouri with the Mississippi, though still 2950 fromthe source of this great-grandfather of waters--for I can give it a noless venerable name. We first caught sight of it, or struck the river, as the phrase is here, about 98 miles below this city, and for a longtime we followed its banks so closely, that we could at any point havethrown a stone from the car into the river. At Hermann, a little Germansettlement on its banks, we stopped and had an excellent dinner, but itwas so late before we left St. Louis, that we passed the greater part ofwhat seemed very pretty scenery in the dark, so that I shall defer anyfurther description of it till we return over the ground on Monday. We were most unfortunate in our weather during our stay at St. Louis, and I had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the neighbourhood, which we hear much extolled, but respecting which we are rathersceptical. The only drive we took, was to a new park being made outsidethe town, called Lafayette Park, which gave us anything but a pleasantimpression of the _entourage_ of St. Louis; we must admit, however, thata very short distance by railway brought us into a very pretty country, and no doubt the dismal weather and bad roads made our drive verydifferent to what it might have been on a fine day. Still, with theimpression fresh in our memory of our drive in the neighbourhood ofCincinnati in much the same sort of weather, we are compelled to thinkthat the country about the Queen of the West and the banks of the Ohiogreatly surpasses in beauty St. Louis and the muddy river which has sogreat a reputation in the world. _Springfield, Illinois, November 9th. _--Although our damp disagreeableweather has not left us, we have contrived to see a good deal ofJefferson City. We made a dash a short way up the Missouri in asteamboat, and landed and took a walk on the northern side of theriver, and as we exchanged a mud for a sandy soil, it was lessdisagreeable than on the south side. The northern shore, which from theopposite side seemed hilly and well wooded, is very pretty, but onlanding the hills had receded to a distance, and we found a considerableplain between them and the river. Up to the water's edge, however, thecountry is well wooded. On the spot where we landed we saw a large tree, at least ten feet in diameter, burnt almost to its centre, and its finehead destroyed by fire; and on asking some bystanders if any one hadintended to burn it down, they said, "Oh, no, some one has merely made afire there to warm himself;" a strong proof of the little value put hereon fine timber. The view of Jefferson City from the opposite bank, looking down theriver, is very striking. Being the capital of the state of Missouri, there was the usual Capitol or state-house, and, unlike most others thatwe have seen, the building with its large dome was completed. It is afine edifice of white stone, standing at a great height above the river, on what is here called a bluff, namely, a rock rising perpendicularlyfrom the water's edge. The principal part of the town is built along theheights, but the ground slopes in places, and the houses are thencarried down to the river side. The railway runs under the cliff, andcan be seen winding along up and down the river, for some distance eachway; it has not yet been carried much further, as this is the last largetown to which railways in the west reach; but, as its name, the PacificRailway, implies, it is intended ultimately to be carried "right away"west till it joins the ocean. We went on Sunday to the Episcopal church. There was the Communion service, and a very good sermon on the subjectof that ordinance. We yesterday returned to St. Louis, and after a brief halt came on here. As our journey back to St. Louis was in the daytime, we had anopportunity of seeing the very interesting country which we passed onSaturday in the dark. The most remarkable feature of the road wascrossing the Osage within 200 or 300 yards of its confluence with theMissouri. It is about 1, 200 feet broad, and we saw in it one of thosebeautiful steamboats which give so much character here to the rivers. The Osage is navigable for these large boats for 200 miles above thisplace. We passed various other rivers, among others the Gasconade, at aspot memorable for a terrible catastrophe which happened on the day ofthe opening of the railway, when the first bridge which crossed it gaveway as the train was passing, and nine out of thirteen cars wereprecipitated into the bed of the river; thirty people, chiefly leadingcharacters of St. Louis, were killed, and many hundreds desperatelyhurt. We have little more to say of St. Louis, as the museum was the onlypublic building we visited. The great curiosity there is the largestknown specimen of the mastodon. It is almost entire from the tip of itsnose to the tip of its tail, and measures ninety-six feet in length. Weleft St. Louis, and were glad to escape for a time at least out of aslave state. The "institution" was brought more prominently before usthere than it has yet been, as St. Louis is the first town where we haveseen it proclaimed in gold letters on a large board in the street, "Negroes bought and sold here. " In the papers, also, yesterday, we sawan advertisement of a "fine young man" to be sold, to pay a debt. We took our departure in the Alton steamboat, in order to see the firsttwenty-four miles of the Upper Mississippi, and the junction of thatriver and the Missouri, which takes place about six miles below Alton;both rivers, however, are very tame and monotonous, and it was only aswe were reaching Alton, that the banks of the Mississippi assumedanything like height. Alton itself stands very high, and as it wasgetting dark when we arrived, the lights along the hills had a fineeffect. We are told it is a pretty town, but it was dark when we landed, and we had to hurry into the train that brought us to this place. Thesteamboat in which we went up the river was a very fine one, but not atall fitted up in the sumptuous manner of our Newport boat. Papa pacedthe cabin, and made it 276 feet long, beyond which there was an outsidesmoking cabin, and then the forecastle. Springfield is in the midst of the Grand Prairie, and, as we are not toleave it till the afternoon, we have been exploring the town, and, asfar as we could, the prairie which comes close up to it; but the momentthe plank pavement ceased, it was hopeless to get further, owing to thedreadfully muddy state of the road. This mud must be a great drawback toresiding in a prairie town, as the streets are rendered impassable forpedestrians, unless at the plank crossings. On our way back to thehotel, we accosted a man standing at his door, whose strong Scotchaccent, in reply to a question, told us at once where he came from. Heasked us into his house, and gave us a good deal of information aboutthe state of the country. He was originally a blacksmith at Inverary, and had after that pursued his calling in a very humble way in Fife andin Edinburgh, and came out here penniless twenty-six years ago, whenthere were only a few huts in the place; but he has turned his trade tobetter account here, for he lives in a comfortable house, and has_$_50, 000, or 10, 000_l. _ invested in the country. He seemed very pleasedto see us, and talked of the Duke of Argyle's family, as well as of theDurhams, Bethunes, Anstruthers, &c. Having lived when in Fife, at Largo, he seemed quite familiar with the Durhams, with the General's littlewife, and with Sir Philip's adventures, from the time of the loss of theRoyal George downwards. This is the capital of Illinois, and the state-house here, too, isfinished, and is a fine building. The governor has a state residence, which is really a large and handsome building, but is altogethersurpassed by the private residence of an ex-governor, who lives in asumptuous house, to judge from its external accompaniments ofconservatory, &c. ; it is nearly opposite our Scotch friend's abode, butthe ex-governor dealt in "lumber" instead of iron, and from being achopper of wood, has raised himself to his present position. _Chicago, Nov. 10th. _--We did not reach Chicago last night till 12o'clock, our train, for the first time since we have been in America, having failed to reach its destination at the proper time; but the delayof two hours on this occasion was fairly accounted for by the bad stateof the rails, owing to the late rains. Before it became dark we saw oneor two wonderful specimens of towns growing up in this wilderness ofprairie. The houses, always of wood and painted white, are neat, clean, and well-built. There is, generally, a good-looking hotel, andinvariably a church, and often several of these, for although one wouldprobably contain all the inhabitants, yet they are usually of manydenominations, and then each one has its own church. About twenty orthirty miles from Chicago, we saw a very extensive tract of prairie onfire, which quite illuminated the sky, and, as the night was very dark, showed distinctly the distant trees and houses, clearly defining theiroutline against the horizon. On the other side of us, there was asmaller fire, but so close as to allow us to see the flames travellingalong the surface of the ground. These fires are very common; we saw noless than five that night in the course of our journey. We have been busily employed to-day in going over Chicago. The streetsare wide and fine, but partake too abundantly of prairie mud to makewalking agreeable: some of the shops are very large; a bookseller'sshop, to which papa and I made our way, professes to be the largest inthe world, and it is certainly one of the best supplied I ever saw withall kinds of children's books. From the bookseller's we went to papa'sbankers, Messrs. Swift and Co. ; Mr. Swift took us to the top of theCourt-house, a wonderful achievement for me, but well worth the trouble, as the view of the town was very surprising. We went afterwards to callon William's friend, Mr. Wilkins, the consul, where we met LordRadstock. Mr. Wilkins kindly took us to see Mr. Sturge's great granary;there are several of these in the town, but this, and a neighbouringone, capable of holding between them four or five million bushels ofcorn, are the two largest. The grain is brought into the warehouse, without leaving the railway, the rails running into the building. It isthen carried to the top of the warehouse "in bulk, " by means of hollowcylinders arranged on an endless chain. The warehouse is built by theside of the river, so that the vessels which are to carry the corn toEngland or elsewhere, come close under the walls, and the grain isdischarged into the vessels by means of large wooden pipes or troughs, through which it is shot at once into the hold. Mr. Wilkins has seen80, 000 bushels discharged in this manner, in one day. We afterwards drove about six miles into the country, through oceans ofmud, to see one of the great slaughter and packing-houses. I did notventure out of the carriage, but the proprietor took Mr. Wilkins, LordRadstock, and papa through every part of the building. In a yard belowwere a prodigious number of immense oxen, and the first process was tosee one of these brought into the inside of the building by means of awindlass; which drew it along by a rope attached to its horns andpassing through a ring on the floor. The beast, by means of men belabouring it from behind, and this ropedragging it in front, was brought in and its head drawn down towards thering, when a man with a sledge-hammer felled it instantaneously to theground; and without a struggle it was turned over on its back by theside of eight or ten of its predecessors who had just shared the samefate, and were already undergoing the various processes to which theyhad afterwards to be subjected. The first of these was to rip up andremove the intestines of the poor beast, and it was then skinned andcut lengthways into two parts, when the still reeking body was hung upto cool. The immense room was hung with some hundreds of carcases ofthese huge animals thus skinned and cleft in two. The process, from thetime the animal leaves the yard alive till the time it is split and hungup in two pieces, occupied less than a quarter of an hour. At the end oftwo days they are dismembered, salted, packed in casks, the best partsto be shipped to England, and the inferior parts to be eaten by the freeand enlightened citizens of this great continent. The greater number ofthese beasts come from Texas, and have splendid horns, sometimes threefeet long. The next thing they saw was the somewhat similar treatment of the poorpigs; but these are animals, of which for size there is nothing similarto be seen in England, excepting, perhaps, at the cattle show. At least, one which papa saw hanging up weighed 400 lbs. , and looked like a youngelephant. In the yard below there was a vast herd of these, 1500 havingarrived by railway the night before; the number killed and cut up dailyaverages about 500. It takes a very few minutes only from the time thepig leaves the pen to its being hung up, preparatory to its being cut upand salted. They first get a knock on the head like the more noblebeasts already mentioned; they are then stuck, in order to be thoroughlybled; after this they are plunged headlong into a long trough of boilingwater, in which they lie side by side in a quiescent state, verydifferent to the one they were in a few minutes before, when they werequarrelling in a most unmannerly manner in the yard below. From thistrough the one first put in is, by a most ingenious machine, taken upfrom underneath, and tossed over into an empty trough, where in lessthan a minute he is entirely denuded of his bristles, and passed over tobe cleft and hung up. The trough holds about eight or ten thus lyingside by side, and the moment one is taken out at one end, another is putin at the other, and they thus all float through the length of thetrough, and are taken out in order; but so rapid is the process, that noone pig is long in; in fact, the whole business occupies only a very fewminutes per pig. Every part is turned to account, the mass of bristlesbeing converted into tooth brushes, &c. In the huge larder, in the storynext above the oxen, there were about 1500 unhappy pigs hung up to cool, before being cut up, salted, packed, and sent off. There are severalestablishments of this nature in Chicago, but only one of equal extentto the one papa saw. About 400, 000 pigs are shipped every year fromChicago. I do not know the total number of cattle, but this house aloneslaughters and sends away 10, 000. There were places on an enormous scalefor preparing tallow and lard, and there were many other details equallysurprising, which I have not now time to describe; but papa says thatthe smells were most offensive, and that it was altogether a veryhorrible sight, and it was one I was well pleased to escape. Among the other wonders of Chicago, I must do honour to its hotel, whichI should say was as good as any we have yet seen in America. TheseAmerican hotels are certainly marvellous "institutions, " though we weregetting beyond the limits of the good ones when we reached JeffersonCity. That, however, at St. Louis is a very fair sample of a good one. _Indianapolis, Nov. 11th. _--We arrived here late this afternoon, andhave not been able as yet to see anything of the town, I shall thereforedefer a description of it to my next. The road from Chicago was notwithout its interest, though we are becoming very tired of the prairies. At first starting we went for many miles along the borders of LakeMichigan, which we again came upon at a very remarkable spot, Michigancity, about sixty miles from Chicago. Along the first part of the lake, in the neighbourhood of Chicago, the shore consists of fine sand, instrips of considerable width, and flat like an ordinary sea beach; butat Michigan city the deep sand reached to a considerable distanceinland, and then rose into high dunes, precisely like those on theFrench coast. As we had to wait an hour there, papa and I scrambled upone of these, and although below there was deep loose sand, yet above itwas hard and solid, and bound together with little shrubs like theFrench dunes. The view of the lake from the top was very pretty, andboundless towards the north, we being at the southern extremity. Ipicked up a few stones on the beach as a memorial of this splendid lake. We were very much tempted, when at Chicago, to see more of it, and to goto Milwaukee and Madison, but we were strongly advised by Mr. Wilkinsnot to go further north at this season. The wreaths of snow which duringthe night have fallen in patches along the road, and greeted our eyesthis morning, confirmed us in the wisdom of this advice, and we are nowbending our steps once more towards the south. We are still here in themidst of prairie, but more wooded than in our journey of Tuesday. Wecrossed to-day, at Lafayette, the Wabash, which we had crossedpreviously at Vincennes, and here, as there, it is a very noble river. This must end my journal for the present. LETTER XII. INDIANAPOLIS. --LOUISVILLE. --LOUISVILLE AND PORTLAND CANAL. --PORTLAND. --THE PACIFIC STEAMER. --JOURNEY TO LEXINGTON. --ASHLAND. --SLAVE PENS AT LEXINGTON. --RETURN TO CINCINNATI. --PENNSYLVANIA CENTRAL RAILWAY. --RETURN TO NEW YORK. Lexington, Kentucky, Nov. 13th, 1858. My last letter was closed at Indianapolis, but despatched fromLouisville. On the morning after I wrote we had time, before startingfor Louisville, to take a walk through the principal streets ofIndianapolis. The Capitol or state-house is the only remarkablebuilding; and here, as in most other towns in America, we were struck bythe breadth of the streets. In the centre of Indianapolis there is alarge square, from which the four principal streets diverge, and fromthe centre of this, down these streets, there are views of the distantcountry which on all sides bounds the prospect. This has a fine effect, but all these capital cities of states have an unfinished appearance:great cities have been planned, but the plans have never beenadequately carried out. The fact is, they have all a political, and nota commercial origin, and they want the stimulus of commercial enterpriseto render them flourishing towns, or to give them the finishedappearance of cities of much more recent date, such as Chicago andothers. We left Indianapolis at about half-past ten, and reached Jeffersonville, on the north side of the Ohio at four. The country at first was entirelyprairie, but became a good deal wooded as we journeyed south. It is muchmore peopled than the wide tracts which we have been lately traversing, for neat towns with white wooden houses and white wooden churches heresucceeded each other at very short distances; we crossed several largerivers, tributaries of the Wabash; one, the White river, was ofconsiderable size, and the banks were very prettily wooded. AtJeffersonville we got into a grand omnibus with four splendid whitehorses, and drove rapidly down a steepish hill, straight on board thesteamboat which was to carry us across the Ohio. The horses went asquietly as on dry land, and had to make a circuit on the deck, as wewere immediately followed by another similar equipage, four in hand, forwhich ours had to make room. This was followed by two large baggagewaggons and a private vehicle; and all these carriages were on one sideof the engine-room. At the other end there was space for as many more, had there been any need for it; and all this on a tiny little steamboatcompared with the Leviathans that were lying in the river. On reaching Louisville we were comfortably established in a largehandsome hotel. As there was still daylight, we took a walk through theprincipal streets, and found ourselves, as usual, in a bookseller'sshop; for not only are these favourite lounges of papa's, but wegenerally find the booksellers intelligent and civil people, from whomwe can learn what is best worth seeing in the town. The one atLouisville lauded very much the pork packing establishments in thistown, and said those at Chicago, and even those of Cincinnati, are notto be compared with them; but without better statistics we must leavethis question undecided, for papa saw quite enough at Chicago to deterhim from wishing to go through the same sight at Louisville; we, however, availed ourselves of the address he gave us of the largestslave-dealer, and went to-day to see a slave-pen. We have lately been reading a most harrowing work, called the"Autobiography of a Female Slave, " whose experience was entirelyconfined to Kentucky--indeed, to Louisville and the adjoining countrywithin a few miles of the Ohio. She describes Kentucky as offering theworst specimen of a slave's life, and gives a horrid account of thebarbarity of the masters, and of the almost diabolical character of theslave-dealers, and of those who hold subordinate situations under them. We were hardly prepared, therefore, on reaching this pen to be received, in the absence of the master, by a good-looking coloured housekeeper, with a face as full of kindness and benevolence as one could wish tosee, but "the pen" had yesterday been cleared out, with the exception ofone woman with her six little children, the youngest only a year old, and two young brothers, neither of whom the dealer had sold, as he hadbeen unable to find a purchaser who would take them without separatingthem, and he was determined not to sell them till he could. In the caseboth of the woman and of the two boys, their sale to the dealer had beencaused by the bankruptcy of the owner. The woman had a husband, buthaving a different master, he retained his place, and his masterpromised that when his wife got a new home he would send him to joinher. No doubt this separation of families is a crying evil, and perhaps thegreatest practical one, as respects hardship, to which the system isnecessarily subject; but certainly, from what we have seen and heardto-day, it does not seem to be harshly done, and pains are taken toavoid it: the woman said she had been always kindly treated, and therewas not the slightest difficulty made by the dark duenna to ourconversing with the slaves as freely as we liked, and she left us withthe whole group. The woman took us to see her baby, and we found it in alarge and well ventilated room, and she said they had always as much andas good food as they could wish. She said she was forty-five years old, and had ten children living, but the four eldest were grown up. Theeldest of those she had with her was a little girl of about thirteen;she said, in answer to a question from papa, that the children had madea great piece of work at parting with their father, but the womanherself seemed quite cheerful and satisfied with her prospects. On our journey here there were a great many slaves in the car with us, coming to pass their Sunday at Lexington. They seemed exceedingly merry, and one, whom papa sat next, said he had accumulated $950, and that whenhe got $1900, he would be able to purchase his freedom. He said hismaster was a rich man, having $300, 000, and that he was very welltreated; but that some masters did behave very badly to their slaves, and often beat them whether they deserved it or not. From the specimenwe had of those in the cars, they seemed well-conditioned men, and allpaid the same fare that we did, and were treated with quite as muchattention. They seem to get some sort of extra wages from their mastersbesides their food and raiment, out of which they can lay by if they areprovident, so as to be able to purchase their freedom in time; but theydo not seem always to care about this, as one man here has $4000, whichwould much more than suffice to buy his freedom; but he prefersremaining a slave. We shall probably see a good deal more of thecondition of the slaves within the next few days, so I shall say no moreupon the subject at present, excepting that all this does not alter theview which we cannot help taking of the vileness of the institution, though it certainly does not appear so very cruel in practice as it isoften represented to be by the anti-slavery party. There are only two great sights to be seen at Louisville. One, thefamous artesian well, 2086 feet deep, bored to reach a horrid sulphurspring, which is, however, a very strong one as there are upwards of 200grains of sulphates of soda and magnesia in each gallon of water, andupwards of 700 grains of chlorides of sulphur and magnesia. There is afountain over the well, in which the water rises 200 feet, but whetherby external pressure or by the natural force of the water, the deponentsayeth not. It comes out in all sorts of forms, sometimes imitatingflowers, and sometimes a shower of snow, on which the negro who showedit to us expatiated with great delight. When I said there were only twosights to see, I alluded to this well, and to the magnificent steamvessel, the "Pacific, " which was lying at Portland, about three milesdown the Ohio, below the Falls; but I forgot altogether the Fallsthemselves, and the splendid canal described in papa's book, throughwhich vessels are obliged to pass to get round them, which I ought notto pass without some notice. The river here is upwards of a mile wide, but the falls are most insignificant; and though the Guide Bookdescribes them as "picturesque in appearance, " and that the islands givethe Ohio here "the appearance of a great many broken rivers of foam, making their way over the falls, while the fine islands add greatly tothe beauty of the scene;" neither papa with his spectacles, nor I withmy keen optics, could see more than a ripple on the surface of thewater. These falls, however, are sufficient to prevent vessels of anygreat burden ascending or descending beyond this point of the river, andhence the necessity of the canal: but this splendid work, about whichpapa's interest was very great, in consequence of what he had writtenabout it, proved as great a disappointment as the falls themselves. Itmust, however, have been a work of great difficulty, as it is cutthrough a solid bed of rock. [13] The locks are sufficiently capaciousto allow of the passage of steamers 180 feet long by 40 feet in breadth, one of which we saw in the lock, and there were three others waiting topass through. These, to our eyes, seemed large and beautiful vessels; but they werealtogether eclipsed and their beauty forgotten, when we found ourselveson board the "Pacific. " This vessel was to sail in the evening, and isone of the most splendid steamers on the river; certainly nothing couldexceed her comfort, infinitely beyond that of the Newport boat, as thesaloon was one long room, unbroken by steam-engine or anything else, toobstruct the view from one end to the other. Brilliant fires wereburning in two large open stoves, at equal distances from either end, and little tables were set all down the middle of the room, at whichparties of six each could sit and dine comfortably. The vessel wasupwards of 300 feet long, the cabin alone being about that length. Oneach side of the cabin were large, comfortable sleeping berths, and onthe deck below, adjoining the servants' room, was a sweet littlenursery, containing, besides the beds and usual washing apparatus, fouror five pretty little rocking-chairs, for the children. We were shownover the kitchen, and everything looked so complete and comfortable thatwe longed to go down in her to New Orleans, whither she is bound, andwhich she will reach in six days. Everything was exquisitely clean, theroof and sides of the cabin being of that beautiful white varnish paintwhich I have before described, which always looks so pure and lovely. There was not much ornament, but all was in good taste. On leaving the "Pacific, " we drove to the inn at Portland. TheKentuckians are a fine tall race of men; but, tall as they are ingeneral, the landlord, Mr. Jim Porter, surpassed them all in height, standing 7 feet 9 inches without his shoes. This is the same individualof whom Dickens gave an amusing account in his American notes fifteenyears ago. We left Louisville at two o'clock, and came on to Lexington thisafternoon. The country is much more like England than anything we haveyet seen, being chiefly pasture land. The grass is that known here, andvery celebrated as the "blue grass" of Kentucky; though why or whereforeit is so called we cannot discover. It is of prodigiously strong growth, sometimes attaining two feet in height; but it is generally kept low, either by cropping or cutting, and is cut sometimes five times a year. The stock raised upon it is said to be very fine, and the animals arevery large and fine looking; but either from the meat not being keptlong enough, or from some cause which we cannot assign, the beef, whenbrought to table, is very inferior to the good roast beef of OldEngland. The road from Louisville to this place is pretty throughout, and seemedquite lovely as we approached Frankfort, though it was getting too darkas we passed that town to appreciate its beauties thoroughly. For somemiles before reaching it, the road passes through a hilly country, withbeautiful rounded knolls at a very short distance. The town is situatedon the Kentucky river, the most beautiful, perhaps, in America. Incrossing the long bridge, we had a fine view down its steep banks, withthe lights of the town close on its margin. The state Capitol which wepassed, is close to the railway, and is a marble building, with ahandsome portico. We were very sorry not to have stopped to passto-morrow, Sunday, at this place, but we were anxious to reachLexington, in order to get our letters. We have no great prospects here, as the hotel, excepting the one at Jefferson City, is the worst we havefound in America. We had hardly set foot in it, when General LeslieCombe called upon us, having been on the look-out for our arrival. Heclaimed cousin-ship, having married a Miss T----, but we must leave itto Uncle Harry to determine to which branch of the T---- family she canclaim kindred. _November 15th. _--The weather has been unpropitious, and instead ofstarting to explore the Upper Kentucky, which we had meant to do, we arereturning this afternoon to Cincinnati. We have, however, been able tosee all the sights here that are worth seeing, besides having beenedified yesterday by a nigger sermon, remarkable, even among niggersermons, for the wonderful stentorian powers of the preacher. The greatobject of interest here is Ashland, so called from the ash timber withwhich the place abounds. This was the residence of Henry Clay, the greatAmerican statesman. General Combe gave us a letter of introduction toMr. James B. Clay, his eldest son, who is the present proprietor of the"location. " The house is very prettily "fixed up, " to use anotherAmerican phrase; but we were disappointed with the 200 acres of park, which Lord Morpeth, who passed a week at Ashland, is said to extol asbeing like an English one. We saw nothing, either of the "locustcypress, cedar, and other rare trees, with the rose, the jasmine, andthe ivy, clambering about them, " which the handbook beautifullydescribes. The fact is, the Americans, as I have before observed, havenot the slightest idea of a garden; and on papa's venturing to insinuatethis to Mr. Clay, he admitted it, and ascribed it to its undoubtedcause, the expense of labour in this country. From Ashland we went to what is really a Kentucky sight, the FairGround. On an eminence at about a mile from the town, surrounded bybeautiful green pastures, there stands a large amphitheatre, capable ofholding conveniently 12, 000 spectators. In the centre is a large grassarea, where the annual cattle show is held, and when filled it must be aremarkable sight. From this we went to the Cemetery, which, like allothers in this country, is neatly laid out, and kept in very good order. The grave-stones and monuments are invariably of beautiful white marble, with the single exception of a very lofty monument which is being raisedto the memory of Mr. Clay. It is not yet finished, but to judge eitherfrom what has been accomplished, or from a drawing papa saw of it on alarge scale, in a shop window, it is not likely to prove pretty, andthe yellowish stone of which it is being built, contrasts badly with thewhite marble about it. We went next to see a very large pen, in which there were about fortynegroes for sale; they had within the last few days, sold about 100, whohad travelled by railway chained together. Those we saw, were dividedinto groups, and we went through a variety of rooms in which they weredomiciled, and were allowed to converse freely with them all. This isone of the largest slave markets in the United States, and is the greatplace from which the South is supplied. There are, in this place, fiveof these pens where slaves are kept on sale, and, judging from this one, they are very clean and comfortable. But these pens give one a much morerevolting idea of the institution than seeing the slaves in regularservice. There was one family of a man and his wife and four littlechildren, the price of "the lot" being _$_3500, or 700_l. _ sterling, butneither the man nor the woman seemed to care much whether they were soldtogether or not. There was one poor girl of eighteen, with a littlechild of nine weeks old, who was sold, and she was to set off to-nightwith her baby, for a place in the State. The slave-dealer himself was acivil, well-spoken man, at least to us, and spoke quite freely of hiscalling, but we thought he spoke harshly to the poor negroes, especiallyto the man with the wife and four children. It appears he had bought theman separately from the woman and children, in order to bring themtogether, but the man had attempted to run away, and told us in excusehe did not like leaving his clothes behind him; whereupon papa asked himif he cared more for his clothes than his wife, and gave him a lectureon his domestic duties. The dealer said they sometimes are muchdistressed when separated from their wives, or husband and children, butthat it was an exception when this was so. One can hardly credit this, but so far as it is true it is one of the worst features of slavery thatit can thus deaden all natural feelings of affection. We have spoken agood deal to the slaves here, and they seem anxious to obtain theirfreedom. The brother of one of the waiters at our hotel had twice beenswindled by his master of the money he had saved to purchase hisfreedom. I spoke to the housemaid at our hotel, also a slave, whoshuddered with horror when she described the miseries occasioned by theseparation of relations. She had been sold several times, and wasseparated from her husband by being sold away from him. She said thepoor negroes are generally taken out of their beds in the middle of thenight, when sold to the slave-dealers, as there is a sense of shameabout transacting this trade in the day-time. From what the slaves toldus, they are, no doubt, frequently treated with great severity by themasters, though not always, as they sometimes fall into the hands ofkind people; but though they may have been many years in one family, they never know from hour to hour what may be their fate, as the usualcause for parting with slaves is, the master falling into difficulties, when he sells them to raise money, or to pay his debts. The waiter toldus, he would rather starve as a freeman than remain a slave, and saidthis with much feeling and energy. _Cincinnati, Nov. 15th_, 9 P. M. --We arrived here again this evening atabout seven o'clock. The road, the whole way from Lexington, 100 miles, is very pretty, following the course of the Licking for a long way, withhigh steep banks on both sides, sometimes rising into high hills, butopening occasionally into wide valleys, with distant views of greatbeauty. In many places the trees here have still their red, or ratherbrown leaves, which formed a strange contrast with the thick snowcovering their branches and the ground beneath. The snow storm lastnight, of which we had but the tail at Lexington, was very heavyfurther north, and the snow on the ground lighted up by the moon, enabled us to see and enjoy the beauty of the scenery as we approachedCovington, at which place we embarked on board the steamboat to crossthe Ohio. I omitted, when we were here before, to mention that in ourSunday walk at Covington, when we first crossed over to Kentucky, wewitnessed on the banks of the river a baptism by immersion, though theattending crowd was so large that we could not distinctly see what wasgoing on. We are told, that on these occasions, the minister takes thecandidate for baptism so far into the river, that they are frequentlydrowned. I forget if I mentioned before that Covington is builtimmediately opposite Cincinnati, at the junction of the Ohio and theLicking, which is here a considerable river, about 100 yards wide, andnavigable for steamboats sixty miles further up. The streets ofCovington are all laid out in a direct line with the correspondingstreets in Cincinnati, and as the streets on both sides mount up thehills on which the towns are built, the effect is very pretty, especially at night, when the line of lamps, interrupted only by theriver, appears of immense length. When the river is frozen over, thestreets of the two cities may be said to form but one, as carts andcarriages can then pass uninterruptedly from the streets of Cincinnati, to those on the opposite side, and _vice versâ_. This snow storm, whichhas made us beat a rapid retreat from the cold and draughty hotels inKentucky, makes us feel very glad to be back in this comfortable hotel. _Pittsburgh, Nov. 17th. _--Lord Radstock made his appearance atCincinnati yesterday, having come from Louisville in a steamer. The daywas very bright and beautiful, though intensely cold; and as papa wasvery anxious to show Lord Radstock the view of Clifton from the heightsabove, we hired a carriage and went there. We were, however, somewhatdisappointed, for the trees were entirely stripped of the beautifulfoliage which clothed them when we saw them three weeks ago, and wereladen with snow, with which the ground also was deeply covered; andalthough the effect was still pretty, this gave a harshness to thescene, the details being brought out too much in relief. The same causedetracted, no doubt, from the beauty of the scenery we passed through today on our way here, and greatly spoilt the appearance of the hillswhich surround Pittsburgh. But I must not anticipate a description of our journey here, but firsttell you of our further proceedings at Cincinnati. Lord Radstock is muchinterested in reformatories and houses of refuge, and we were glad tovisit with him the one situated at about three miles from the town, theexterior only of which we had seen in our drive with Mr. Anderson. Thebuilding is very large and capacious, having cost 2700_l. _ It is capableof holding 200 boys and 80 girls, and the complement of boys isgenerally filled up; but there are seldom above 60 girls. The wholeestablishment seems admirably conducted. The boys and girls are keptapart, and each one has a very nice, clean bed-room, arranged in prisonfashion, and opening on to long galleries; but with nothing to give theidea of a cell, so perfectly light and airy is each room. There is anhospital for the boys and one for the girls, large and well ventilatedrooms; that of the girls is beautifully cheerful, with six or eight niceclean beds; but it says a good deal for the attention paid to theirhealth, that out of the whole number of boys and girls, there was onlyone boy on the sick list, and he did not appear to have much amiss withhim. This is somewhat surprising, as the rooms in which they work areheated by warm water, to a temperature which we should have thought mustbe very prejudicial to their health, but with this exception, they haveevery advantage. A large playground, a very large chapel, where theymeet for prayers and reading the Bible, the boys below, and the girls ina gallery, and large airy schoolrooms. The children are admitted fromthe age of 7 up to 16, and the boys are usually kept till 21, and thegirls till they are 18. The girls are taught needlework and householdwork, or rather are employed in this way, independently of two hours anda half daily instruction in the school, and the boys are brought up to avariety of trades, either as tailors, shoemakers, workers of variousarticles in wire, or the like. The proceeds of their work go in part topay the expenses of the establishment, but the cost is, with this smallexception, defrayed by the town, and amounts to about 20_l. _ annuallyfor each boy. These poor children are generally sent there by themagistrates on conviction of some crime or misdemeanour, but are oftensent by parents when they have troublesome or refractory children, andthe result is, in most cases, very satisfactory. They all seemed veryhappy, and the whole had much more the appearance of a large school, than of anything partaking of the character of a prison. Having calledin the afternoon and taken leave of the Longworths, Andersons, andothers, who had shown us so much kindness when we were last here, westarted at half-past ten at night for this place. As we were already acquainted with the first part of the road toColumbus, we thought we should not lose much by this plan, and we wishedbesides to try the sleeping cars, which has not proved altogether asuccessful experiment as far as papa is concerned, for he had verylittle sleep, and is very headachy to-day in consequence. Thrower, too, was quite knocked up by it; my powers of sleeping at all times andplaces prevented my suffering in the same way, and I found thesesleeping cars very comfortable. They are ingeniously contrived to belike an ordinary car by day; but by means of cushions spread between theseats and a flat board let down half way from the ceiling, two tiers ofvery comfortable beds are made on each side of the car, with a passagebetween. The whole looks so like a cabin of a ship, that it is difficultnot to imagine oneself on board a steamboat. Twenty-four beds, eachlarge enough to hold two persons, can be made up in the cars, and thestrange jumble of ladies and gentlemen all huddled together was ratherludicrous, and caused peals of laughter from some of the laughter-lovingAmerican damsels. The cots are provided with pillows and warm quiltedcounter-panes and curtains, which are all neatly packed away under theseats in the daytime. The resemblance to the steamboat in papa'shalf-waking moments seemed too much for his brain to be quite clear onthe subject of where he was. Thrower, who had shared my couch, got up_sea sick_ at about four in the morning, the motion of the carriage notsuiting her while in a recumbent position, and retired to a seat at oneend of the carriage. As we neared Columbus, papa became very restless, and made a descent from over my head, declaring the heat wasintolerable. "Where, " said I, "is your cloth cap?" "Oh!" he answered, "Ihave thrown that away long ago; that's gone to the fishes. " He said hehad so tossed himself about, that he did not think he had a button lefton his coat; things were not, however, quite so bad as this, and onfinding my couch too cold for him, I at last succeeded in making yourdear restless fidgetty papa mount up again to his own place, where, tomy comfort, and no doubt to his own also, he soon fell asleep. I got upat five and sat by poor Thrower, and watched the lights of the risingsun on hills, valleys, and rivers for an hour; when in came theconductor, and thrusting his lamp into the face of the sleepers, andgiving them a shake, told them to get up, a quarter of an hour beingallowed them for breakfast. In one second the whole place was alive;down came gentlemen without their boots, and ladies with their nightcaps, and in a few minutes all were busily employed in the inn, breakfasting. I had said we did not care about missing the first part ofthe road which we had seen before; but the joint light of a brilliantfull moon and the snow on the hills, made us see the dear old Ohio andthe bold Kentucky banks as clearly, almost, as if it had been daylight, till we retired to our beds; and, even then, I could not help lyingawake to view the glorious scene out of my cabin window. When we got up this morning we were entering a new country, and for manymiles went along a beautiful valley of one of the tributaries of theOhio. We again fell in with the Ohio at Steubenville, having traced thetributary down to its mouth. Our road then lay along the bank of theOhio for about seventy miles, and anything more perfect in river sceneryit would be difficult to imagine. Many large tributaries fell into it, the mouths of which we crossed over long bridges, and from these bridgeshad long vistas up their valleys. For about thirty miles we had the boldbanks of Virginia opposite to us; but, after that, we quitted the stateof Ohio, and for forty miles the course of the river was through thestate of Pennsylvania. A number of steamboats enlivened the scene, withtheir huge stern wheels making a great commotion in the water. The rivertoo was studded with islands, and the continuous bend, the river takingone prolonged curve from Steubenville to Pittsburg, added greatly to thebeauty of the scene. On approaching Pittsburg we crossed the Alleghany, which is a fine broad stream. The Monongahela, which here meets it, is astill finer one, and the two together, after their junction, constitutethe noble river which then, for the first time, takes the name of theOhio, or, as it is most appropriately called by the French, "La bellerivière"--for anything more beautiful than the seventy miles of it whichwe saw to-day it would be difficult to imagine. We are lodged here at a very comfortable hotel, facing the Alleghanyriver. The town forms a triangle, situated between this river and theMonongahela, and after dinner, having arrived here early, we took a walkfrom the hotel, across the town, until we arrived at the latter river. The opposite bank here is of great height, and we crossed a bridge, 1500feet long, with the magnanimous intention of going to the top of thehill to see the magnificent prospect which the summit is said toafford. But our strength, and breath, and courage failed us before wehad ascended a third of the height, although there is a good carriageroad up and in good condition, from the hard frost which still prevails. The view, however, even at that height, was very fine, although it wasgreatly marred by the smoky atmosphere which hangs over the city. Afterrecrossing the bridge we went to the point forming the apex of thetriangle, to see the confluence of the two rivers, and, as we could fromthere look up both rivers and down the Ohio, the view is veryremarkable. The town itself disappointed us; but, perhaps, we expectedmore than we ought reasonably to have done from a great and dirtymanufacturing town. _Harrisburgh, Nov. 18th. _--We started this morning by the six o'clocktrain in order to see the wonderful Pennsylvania railroad by daylight. It is the great rival of the Baltimore and Ohio railway, on which wetravelled with Mr. Tyson, and we were rather anxious to have anopportunity of comparing the two, which, having now seen them both, wefeel competent to do. The great change which nature presents now, towhat it did when the leaves were in full foliage, may make us underratethe beauties of the road we passed over to-day, but, notwithstandingthis, we think there can be no doubt that the Baltimore and Ohio, takenas a whole, is by far the most picturesque and beautiful. The length ofthe two roads is very nearly the same; but, while the whole of theBaltimore and Ohio was beautiful, one side of the mountain being as muchso as the other, the first part of the road to-day, till we reached thesummit level, was very much of the same character as many other mountainregions we have passed. For many miles the road followed the course ofthe Conemaugh, crossing and recrossing the river, but without any verystriking feature. But the moment we had passed through a tunnel, 3612feet long, and began the descent of 2200 feet, on the eastern side ofthe Alleghany chain, the scene quite baffled description. The summitlevel of the Baltimore and Ohio is 500 feet higher; but the descentoccupies a distance of seventeen miles, while the descent to-day waseffected in eleven, so that, with all our partiality for the Baltimoreand Ohio, it must be confessed there is nothing on it so wonderful andsublime as this. One curve was quite appalling, and it was rendered moreso by the slow rate at which the train moved--not more, I should think, than at the rate of two miles an hour--certainly not nearly so fast aswe could have walked, so that we had full leisure to contemplate thechasm into which we should have been plunged headlong had the slightestslip of the wheels occurred. How they can ever venture to pass it atnight is quite surprising. The curve is like a horse shoe, and goesround the face of a rock which has been cut away to make room for theroad. Another superiority in the road we travelled to-day is the muchgreater height of the surrounding mountains, and the extent of thedistant views;--but the greater height of the mountains had theattendant disadvantage of the trees being chiefly pines, instead of thelovely forest trees, of every description, which adorned the hillsamongst which we travelled in Maryland and Virginia, by the Baltimoreand Ohio railway. I must, however, do justice here to the eastern side of the mountains. For more than 100 miles we closely followed the course of the Juniata, from its source to where it ends its career by falling, quite amagnificent river, into the Susquehanna, about twenty-two miles abovethis place. After the junction, the noble Susquehanna was our companionfor that distance, this town being situated upon it. The source of theJuniata is seen very soon after passing Altamont, and perhaps we weremore disposed to do justice to the beauty of the river, from the happyframe of body and mind we were in, owing to the excellent dinner we hadjust partaken of at that place, consisting of roast beef, roast turkey, apple tart, cranberry preserve, and a most superlative CharlotteRusse--pretty good fare for an hotel in a mountain pass! No wine orstimulants of any kind were allowed, or what the consequence might havebeen on papa's restless state of mind it would be difficult to say; asit was, I counted that he rose from his seat to look at the view fromthe other side of the car, thirty times in the space of an hour and ahalf, making a move, therefore, upon an average, of once in every threeminutes; and this he afterwards continued to do as often as the roadcrossed the river. I foolishly, at first, partook of his locomotivepropensities, but my exhausted frame soon gave way, so that he declaresI only saw one half of its beauties, namely, the half on the side whereI was seated; but this half was ample to satisfy any reasonable mortal. I am at a loss to imagine what our fellow-travellers could have thoughtof him, as they lounged on their seats, and scarcely ever condescendedto look out of window. We arrived here, not the least tired with our long journey, though itoccupied twelve hours, and were so fresh afterwards, that we startedafter tea, this being the great annual Thanksgiving-day, to the nearestplace of worship we could find, which turned out to be a Baptist"Church, " as it is called here, where we heard a most admirable sermon, and felt we had reason to offer up our thanks with as much earnestnessas any one of the congregation, for having been spared to make thisjourney to the Far West, and to have returned to civilised life, withoutencountering a single difficulty or drawback of any kind. I may as wellstate, that this Thanksgiving-day was established by the Puritans, andis still kept up throughout the whole of the United States, its objectbeing to return thanks for the blessings of the year, and moreespecially for the harvest. There are services in all the churches, andwe much regretted not finding out till late yesterday, that this was theday set apart for it, for had we known this, we should not havetravelled to-day; but once on our journey, with the fear of snowaccumulating in the mountains, we were afraid of stopping on the road, and we were very glad to be able to attend the service this evening. There is something very beautiful, I think, in thus setting apart oneday in the year for such a purpose, and it is interesting too, as beinga relic left by the Puritans. _November 19th. _--We are quite charmed with this place, which is a rareexception to all the other capitals we have seen, inasmuch as more hasnot been undertaken than has been carried out; in fact, it has much morethe appearance of a village than of a large city. The beauty of theriver surpasses all description. It is a mile wide, and bends gracefullytowards the direction of the mountains through the gorge from which itissues forth in its course towards Chesapeake Bay, and here, where thehills recede to a distance, it expands into a great width, and its faceis covered with islands. The only drawback to its being a grand river isits shallowness, and want of adaptation, therefore, to the purpose ofnavigation. There are no splendid steamboats to be seen here as on theOhio, which make one feel that river, at the distance of more than 2000miles from the sea, to be a noble highway of commerce, linking togetherwith a common interest distant portions of this vast continent. In theSusquehanna, one feels that there is nothing but its beauty to admire, but this _is_ perfect. Two bridges connect the town with the opposite shore, each of them beingabout a mile long. The weather is so piercingly cold, that we did notventure across, but we took a long walk up the banks, of the river. Thetown of Harrisburgh is very small, consisting of only three or fourstreets parallel to the river, intersected by about a dozen others atright angles to it. The centre one of these is a fine broad street, closed in at the further end by the Capitol. This is a handsome, butunpretending building of red brick, adorned by a portico, and, as usual, surmounted by a dome. On entering at the top of a flight of stairs, there is a circular area, covered in by the dome. Out of this, on oneside, is a very neat Senate House, and on the opposite side is the Houseof Representatives. The State library, a very good one, is upstairs. Theflight of stairs up to this, which is continued up to the dome, is wideand handsome, and of such easy ascent, that I ventured up to the top, inorder to take a bird's-eye view of the scenery we so much enjoyed below. We were very well repaid for the trouble, especially as the gallery wasglazed, so that we could see the view without being exposed to thecutting wind which was blowing outside. The houses here are generally of brick, painted a deep red colour, which, not being in too great masses, and picked out with a good deal ofwhite, has a very good effect. Some few houses, however, especiallytowards the outskirts of the town, were of wood, painted white. Weyesterday passed many villages and towns of these pretty houses, butwith the snow lying around them, scarcely whiter than the housesthemselves, they had a very chilly appearance, and looked far lesstempting than the houses of this description in New England when wefirst saw them, each in its pretty clean lawn, and surrounded by alovely foliage. To return to this town--and, as a climax to itsperfection, it has, out and out, the most comfortable hotel we have seenin America. It is quite a bijou, with a very pretty façade, and, beingnew last year, everything is in the best style. The ground floor, as isgenerally the case in this country, consists, like the Hôtel du Louvrein Paris, of good shops, which gives a gayer appearance to the wholethan if it were one mass of dwelling rooms. We find it so comfortablethat, instead of going on this afternoon to Philadelphia, we mean toremain here to-night, and to go on to-morrow to New York. _New York, Nov. 22nd. _--We took one more walk at Harrisburgh, beforestarting on Saturday. The morning was lovely, and from the hill abovethe town, which we had time to reach, the view was very beautiful. But, of all the picturesque things that I have lately seen, I think the scenewhich presented itself this morning, when I opened our bedroom shuttersat six o'clock, was the most striking. The night, on which I had lookedout before going to bed, was clear and most beautiful; but a few starsnow only remained as the day had begun to dawn, and the east wasreddened by the approaching sunrise. Below the window was a very largemarket-place, lighted up and crowded with buyers and sellers. The womenall had on the usual bonnet worn by the lower classes in thiscountry, --a sun-bonnet, made of coloured cotton, with a very deepcurtain hanging down the back. They wore besides warm cloaks andcoloured shawls, and the men large wide-awakes. I have already describedthe brilliantly red houses, and the day being sufficiently advanced tobring out the colour very conspicuously, I think I never saw a prettieror busier scene, nor one which I could have wished more to have drawn, but there was no time even to attempt it. After leaving Harrisburgh our road lay for some miles along the courseof the Susquehanna, and papa, who had bought a copy of Gertrude ofWyoming, made me read it aloud to him, to the great astonishment of ourfellow-travellers and at the expense of my lungs, the noise of a railwaycarriage in America not being much suited for such an occupation. Theriver presented a succession of rich scenery, being most picturesquelystudded with islands. We were quite sorry to take leave of it; but afterthese few miles of great beauty, the road made a dash across the countryto Philadelphia. Papa, during the whole of the morning, had been mostwonderfully obtuse in his geography, and was altogether perplexed when, before reaching Philadelphia, we came to the margin of the river we hadto cross to reach that town. He had been quite mystified all the morningat Harrisburg, and at fault as to the direction in which the river wasrunning, and as to whether the streets we were in were at right anglesor parallel to it. This state of confusion became still worse when wegot into the carriage, as he had miscalculated on which side, afterleaving the town, we should first see the river, and had placed me onthe left side of the car, when it suddenly appeared, in all its glory, on the right. He almost lost his temper, we all know how irritable he_can_ become, and exclaimed impatiently, --"Well, are we now on this sideof the river or the other?" but his puzzle at Philadelphia was from theriver which we then came upon, being the Schuylkill, while he thoughtwe had got, in some mysterious way, to the Delaware, on the _west_ bankof which the town is situated, as well as on the _east_ of theSchuylkill. The discovery of the river it really was of course solvedthe puzzle; but for a long time he insisted that the steamboat we wereto embark upon, later in the day, on the Delaware, must be the one wenow saw, and it was all the passengers could do to persuade him to sitstill. He exclaimed, "But why not stay on this side, instead of crossingthe river to cross back again to take the cars?" It was altogether aludicrous state of confusion that poor Papa was in; but it ended, notonly in our crossing the river, but in our traversing the whole town ofPhiladelphia, at its very centre, in the railway cars, going throughbeautiful streets and squares; and, as we went at a slow pace, we had acapital view of the shops and of the town, which was looking very cleanand brilliant, the day being fine and frosty. We made no stay at Philadelphia, but at length taking the cars on theeast side of the Delaware, we proceeded in them to South Amboy; where, embarking again, we had a fine run of twenty-four miles between StatenIsland and the coast of New Jersey, and reached this place in time fordinner. We regretted thus turning our backs on Philadelphia, andBaltimore, and Washington, without seeing more of them; but the time wehave spent in the west has exceeded what we had counted on this part ofour journey occupying, and we are anxious to get home to you all. On our railway and on the steamer, we had with us a body of the firemenof Philadelphia, who were on their way to pay to their brother-firemenhere one of those complimentary visits we have spoken of. There was loudcheering from their cars as we left Philadelphia, and as we passedthrough the different towns on the road, which was well responded to bythe bystanders who had collected to witness the sight. The men weredressed in a most picturesque uniform, and had a good brass band, whichplayed during the whole time that we were on board the steamer. Onlanding, there were bonfires on the quay, and rockets let off in honourof their arrival; but, though the crowd was great, we had not theslightest difficulty in landing, for all these matters are carried onwith the greatest order in this country, which is the more remarkable, as the people have very excitable natures. Late at night, when we weregoing to bed, a company of firemen crossed this street with lights andtorches, with a band playing, and dragging a fire-engine covered withlamps; forming quite a moving blaze of light. We yesterday spent our first Sunday in New York, having hitherto beenalways away on that day; and we heard a wonderfully impressive andadmirable sermon from Dr. Tyng. The church in which he preached was ofvery large dimensions, but his voice penetrated it throughout; he stoodon a small platform instead of a pulpit, with a low desk in front, sothat his whole figure could be seen. He had a good deal of action, butit was in very good taste, and the matter of his sermon was beyond allpraise. The text was from the latter part of Col. I. 17, "And by Him allthings consist. " In the afternoon we heard a good, but not so striking asermon, from Dr. Bedell; and it was suggested to us to go in the eveningto the Opera-house to hear a great Presbyterian preacher, Mr. Alexander;but this we did not feel disposed to do. The Opera-house is being madeuse of, as our Exeter Hall is, for Special Services. I think I may as well fill up the rest of this sheet by describing thearrangements of American hotels. There are frequently two entrances, onefor ladies and the other for gentlemen. That for the ladies leads by aprivate staircase to the ladies' drawing-room; and the gentlemen'sentrance opens upon what is called the office. Whether there areseparate entrances or not, the gentleman is at once conducted to theoffice, which is usually crowded with spitters and smokers; and there heenters his name in the travellers' book. This done, the waiter shows himto the drawing-room, where the lady has been requested, in the meantime, to wait, and they are then taken, often through long and wide passages, to their bedrooms. A private drawing-room may be had by paying extra forit; but the custom is to do without one, and to make use of the ladies'drawing-room, which is always a pretty room, and often a very handsomeone. In it are invariably to be found a piano, at which the ladiesfrequently perpetrate most dreadful music; a marble table, in the centreof which always stand a silver tray and silver tankard and gobletscontaining iced water, a rocking chair, besides other easy-chairs andsofas, and a Bible. It is a rare thing not to find a Bible, the gift ofa Society, in every bedroom and drawing-room in the hotel. The bedroomsnever have bed-curtains, and sometimes no window-curtains; but thewindows usually have Venetian or solid shutters. The dining-hall is a spacious apartment, often 80 or sometimes 100 feetlong, and in some large hotels there are two of these, one used forrailway travellers, and the other for the regular guests. The meals arealways at a _table-d'hôte_, with printed bills of fare; the dishes arenot handed round, as in Germany, but the guests are required to look atthe bill of fare and name their dishes, which does not seem a good plan, as one's inclination is always to see how the dish looks before orderingit. Everything comes as soon as asked for, and there is a great choiceof dishes. There is very little wine drunk at table, but to every hotelthere is appended a bar, where, we are told, the gentlemen make amendsfor their moderation at table by discussing gin sling, sherry cobbler, &c. ; but of course I know nothing of this, excepting from hearsay. Theutmost extent of Papa's excesses on the rare occasions when he went intothese bars, was to get a glass of Saratoga water; but he has failed togive me any description of what he saw. The breakfasts are going onusually from seven till nine. The general dinner-hour is one; but thereis sometimes a choice of two hours, one and three. Tea, consisting oftea, coffee, and sweet cakes and preserves, takes place at six; andthere is a cold meat supper at nine. Meals are charged extra if taken inprivate. It is a good plan in travelling never to reserve oneself atthe end of the day's journey for the hotel dinner, as there is a chanceof arriving after it is over, when the alternative is to go without; therailway dinners are quite as good, find often better, than those at thehotel. The use of the ladies' drawing-room is restricted to ladies andgentlemen accompanying them; no single gentleman, is allowed to sit init unless invited by a lady; but there is a separate reading-room forgentlemen, supplied with newspapers, and there is generally another roomreserved for smoking, but the accommodation in these rooms is, ingeneral, very inferior to those set apart for the ladies. In the hall ofthe hotel there is frequently a counter for the sale of newspapers, books, and periodicals, and all hotels have a barber's shop, which is amarvellous part of the establishment. The fixed charge at the hotels isgenerally from 8s. To 10s. Per day for each person. We have just settled to sail for England on the 1st December, so I shallhave only one more journal letter to write to you, and shall be myselfthe bearer of it. FOOTNOTE: [13] The account referred to was written as far back as 1839, and is somuch more accurate a description of the Falls, and of the canal, thanthat given in the Railway Guide, that I must here extract it. "The falls of the Ohio are occasioned by an irregular ledge of rockstretching across the river. They are only perceptible at low water, thewhole descent being but twenty-two feet, while the difference of levelbetween the highest and lowest stages of the water is about sixty feet. When the river is full, they present, therefore, no serious obstructionto the navigation. To obviate the inconvenience, however, at low water, a canal, called the Louisville and Portland Canal, has been constructedround the falls, which is deserving of notice, as being, perhaps, themost important work of the kind ever undertaken. The cross section ofthe canal is 200 feet at the top of the bank, 50 feet at the bottom, and42 feet deep, making its capacity about fifteen times greater than thatcontemplated for the Erie Canal after its enlargement is completed: itssides are sloping and paved with stone. The guard lock contains 21, 775perches of masonry, being equal to that of fifteen locks on the New YorkCanals; and three others contain 12, 300 perches. This canal is capableof admitting steamboats of the largest class. It is scarcely two milesin length; but, considering the quantity of mason work, and thedifficulty of excavating earth and rock from so great a depth, togetherwith the contingencies attending its construction, from the fluctuationsin the depth of the river, it is probably no over-statement when it issaid, that the work in it is equal to that of seventy or seventy-fivemiles of an ordinary canal. " LETTER XIII. NEW YORK--ASTOR LIBRARY. --COOPER INSTITUTE. --BIBLE HOUSE. --DR. RAE--DR. TYNG. --TARRYTOWN. --ALBANY. --SLEIGHING--FINAL RETURN TO BOSTON. --HALIFAX. --VOYAGE HOME. --CONCLUSION. Albany, Nov. 27th, 1858. My last letter was despatched to you on the 23rd inst. ;--that evening wedined at Mr. Aspinwall's. He has a handsome house in New York, and alarge picture gallery, and as we wished to see this by daylight, wecalled on him after breakfast on the following morning, and had anopportunity of examining the pictures, many of which are very good, especially some by early Dutch masters. Mr. Aspinwall afterwards took us to the Astor Library. This library wasfounded by the munificence of the late Mr. Astor, a very rich merchant, who bequeathed a large sum of money for the purpose. It is remarkablywell arranged and pretty, and capable of containing about 300, 000volumes. Mr. Cogswell, the librarian, showed us some of the mostvaluable books. He was acquainted with Papa's name, as he had boughthis book in London for the library, and appeared familiar with itscontents. He said he valued it as filling up a gap in the financialhistory of America that was not supplied by any work in this country. Mr. Aspinwall took us afterwards to the Cooper Institute, founded by Mr. Peter Cooper, another very eminent citizen of New York, who has donethis good deed in his lifetime. He happened to be there, and as Mr. Aspinwall introduced us to him, he showed us round the building himself. He is a rich ironmonger, and an eccentric man. The building has cost100, 000_l. _; it is intended for public lectures and for a school ofdesign. At the time we were there, some specimens of drawings, penmanship, &c. , by the scholars of the Free Schools in New York werebeing exhibited, and were, in general, very creditable performances. Wewent to the top of the building, and, the weather being remarkably clearand fine, we had a good view of the town and of the surrounding country. Anything like country, however, can only be seen on one side across theHudson, although, on the opposite side of New York Bay, Staten Islandcan be seen stretching "right away" to the south; but the wonderfulsight is the immense city itself, extending for miles in a northerndirection. We rather crowded into this last day all the sights that we had hithertoomitted to see at New York; for we went also to the Bible House, a verylarge building near the Cooper Institute. In this Bible House not onlyare copies of the Bible sold, as in our corresponding institution inLondon, but the whole process of printing, making up, and binding theBible is carried on. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by theestablishment is very great, amounting, during the last year, to712, 045. During that period there were 250, 000 Bibles printed and381, 000 Testaments, besides 500 books for the blind printed in raisedtypes, making a total of 631, 500 volumes; and this, owing to a scarcityof funds, arising out of the late pecuniary pressure, is a decrease fromthe year before of 110, 000 volumes, so that it was from the store inhand that the excess of the volumes issued above the number printed wastaken. These Bibles and Testaments are in every language, and in everyform and size. The machinery is worked by steam, and the immensebuilding is warmed from the same source. Some idea of its extent may beconceived by the fact that there are twelve miles of pipes used in thiswarming process. [14] After this hard day's work we dined at Mr. Russell's, to meet Dr. Rae, the Arctic traveller, and in the evening we went to the GeographicalSociety to hear a lecture on his last northern expedition, when hegained all the information known respecting poor Sir John Franklin, insearch of whom he had been sent by the British Government. He showed usmany relics of that unfortunate party, consisting of spoons, watch-cases, &c. ; the lecture was very interesting, especially withregard to the origin and transportation of boulders. He produced anenormous head of a deer, which had a curious horn in front between thetwo side ones; this is a common appendage to the antlers of the deer ofthat region. He told us an amusing anecdote of his having been presentwhen Professor Owen was lecturing on this strange appearance, anddescribed the wisdom of this provision, to enable the animal to clearits way in the snow in search of its food below it; but Dr. Rae was ableentirely to overset this theory, by stating that the whole hornyappendages of this deer are always shed before any snow makes itsappearance on the ground. At dinner we met Mr. Rutherford, who begged us to go after the lectureto see his observatory, in which, he said, he had the best and largesttelescope in America, not excepting the one at Washington; we wenttherefore to see it, though the lecture was not over till half-past ten, and were repaid by a sight of Jupiter, and his belts and satellites: butthough the telescope was larger than the one at Washington, being of thesame focal length, and having an object glass nearly two inches wider, it did not strike us as being so clear and good an instrument. It isundoubtedly, however, a very fine one, and entirely of American make. Much as we have had to record this day, there was more jumbled into it;but instead of going to see the last sight I have to record, it obtrudeditself upon us at every turn. This was a military procession, flagsflying, &c. , to commemorate the evacuation of the town of New York bythe British, after the first war of Independence. A great dinner isalways given on this day by the members of the Order of Cincinnati, andPapa was asked to go to it, but our engagement to Mr. Russell preventedhis accepting the invitation. I think the only further thing of interest which I have to record aboutour visit this time to New York, was our calling on Dr. Tyng; he is amost interesting person, and talked much about revivals and slavery. Hesaid there was undoubtedly a greater degree of serious feeling graduallyspreading in New York, especially among the artisans and labouringclasses; but he could see nothing of that work of the Spirit on thelarge scale which others speak of, and he thinks the nature and extentof the revivals have been over-estimated. With regard to slavery, Dr. Tyng is a very good judge, as, for the firstsix years of his ministry, he had a considerable parish in the slavestate of Maryland, extending over a large tract of plantation lands, cultivated entirely by slaves. The slave population in this parish wasabout 8000, and he says the treatment of the slaves was almost all thatcould be desired for their temporal comfort, as far as good clothing, good food, and kind treatment went, and he had known but very few casesof slaves being ill-treated or even flogged during his six years'residence there: still no one can condemn more strongly than he does thewhole system, as lowering and degrading the moral tone, both of thewhite and the black population. As I shall probably have no occasion to allude again to slavery, as therest of our short stay on this continent will now be among the freestates, I may say I have seen nothing to lessen, and everything toconfirm, the strong impression I have always entertained respecting it. Besides what we have seen, we have read as much as we could on thesubject, and must record a little book called "Aunt Sally, or the Crossthe Way to Freedom, " as being the most faithful account of the evils ofslavery we have met with. It is the story of a female slave's life, andis said to be strictly true and devoid of all exaggeration, and it is amost touching account of the power of religion in her case, in upholdingher through a long life of trials and degradation. [15] On Friday, the 26th instant, we took our final leave of New York. Weleft it by the Hudson River Railway, the same by which we went to WestPoint two days after our arrival in America, and it was curious tocontrast our feelings on getting into the cars now with those which weexperienced when we first set our foot into them; we thought at firstthat we never could encounter a long journey in them, and dreaded allsorts of disasters. Yet now, independently of steamboat travelling, wehave travelled altogether in railways over more than 5500 miles, and itis somewhat singular that in the great number of separate journeys wehave taken, we have only on one occasion been late on arriving at ourdestination, which was on reaching Chicago. The train was then two hourslate in a journey of 281 miles, and that not owing to any accident, butsolely to the slippery state of the rails, after a heavy rain, whichrendered caution necessary. The only hitch from accident (if it wasone), was for five minutes at Rome, on the New York Central Railway, when we were delayed for that time, on account of what William told uswas "something wrong with the engine. " We have only 200 miles left totravel between this and Boston, and we have great reason to be thankfulfor having performed so long a journey not only in perfect safety, butwithout any anxiety, and scarcely any fatigue. [16] One marked improvement in the eastern over the western railways, is inthe gentlemen's special accomplishment of spitting being much lessactive in the east, owing to their chewing tobacco less vigorously. Inthe west it is dreadful to see and hear how this habit goes on duringthe whole day, not out of window, but on the floors of the cars andomnibuses, and all over the hall and passages of the hotels. But to return to our journey from New York on the Hudson. It was abeautiful day, and the scenery quite lovely. We had only twenty-sevenmiles to go to Mr. Bartlett's, to whom we had brought letters fromEngland, and who asked us to pass the first night of our journey at hiscountry place near Tarrytown. On arriving at the station there, he droveus to his house, which stands on an eminence three miles higher up theriver. The river here is rather more than three miles in width, but theatmosphere was so clear that every house on the opposite bank could bedistinctly seen, and the opposite shore is so high, that we could hardlyimagine the river to be as wide as it is. The view from the house isperfectly magnificent. The eye takes in a distance of thirty miles upand down the river, there being here a long reach, having almost theappearance of a lake, the river above and below not being more than froma mile to a mile and a half in width. Immediately opposite Tarrytown isthe town of Nyach, which is connected with Tarrytown by a steam ferry. In passing from Tarrytown to Mr. Bartlett's house, we drove through theSleepy Hollow, the scene of one of Washington Irving's tales, and passedthe old Dutch church, which is mentioned by him in the legend, as theplace of sanctuary where Ichabod took refuge. In fact, the whole sceneryis classic ground here; and Mr. Irving himself, who has rendered it so, lives only two miles off, at Sunnyside. After giving us some luncheon, Mr. Bartlett took Papa a walk up a highhill behind the house, the view from which he describes as perfectlyenchanting; but it would be difficult for anything to surpass the oneseen from the house, combining every possible feature of wood, hill, dale, and water; but if I cannot describe this, it would be equallyimpossible to describe the perfect taste and beauty of the house itself. The chief features are the carving of the wooden staircase, thechimney-pieces in the library and dining-room, and of the book-cases inthe library. The carpet of the drawing-room was Aubusson tapestry, andthe furniture was entirely from French patterns or imported from Paris, where it was made on purpose for the different rooms; every part of thehouse, including the bed-rooms, was filled with choice engravings. Onebed-room specially struck us, the paper and chintz furniture of whichwere exactly of the same pattern of roses on a white ground, and theeffect was beautiful; but there were many others in equally good taste, all with French papers. Hot and cold water were laid on in the rooms, and hot air likewise, though not so as to be in the least oppressive. Mrs. Bartlett's bed-room and dressing-room were the climax of all. Thewoodwork throughout the house was varied in every story: there was blackoak, red pine, and white pine, all of very fine grain; the hall wascovered with encaustic tiles from Minton's; the offices were in keeping, dairy, laundry, &c. Papa went over the farm and gardens, which were inthe same exquisite order; and there were greenhouses and hothouses, which looked at a distance like a little Crystal Palace. Mrs. Bartlettis a very amiable person, but a great invalid, and seldom leaves herroom. This morning we proceeded on our way to this place; before getting intothe train at twelve o'clock, we drove over to Sunnyside; but, alas! Mr. Irving was out, and we could only walk about his grounds, and peep in athis study window. As this brought us to Tarrytown sooner than we countedupon, I had time to climb up one of the hills, and much enjoyed theview, although it was not so extensive as the one Papa saw yesterday. Aswe got northward, on our way to Albany, the snow, which had almostdisappeared at Tarrytown, became very deep, the land was covered with awhite garment, and the river partially with a coating of ice. At Hudson, opposite the Catskill mountains, we, for the first time, saw sledging, sledges having there taken the place of the usual carriages which cometo meet the train. There were many carts, also, and an omnibus, all onsledges, and the whole had a singularly wintry appearance. We are housed again at the Delavan House, and find the twenty-fourdamsels have donned long sleeves to their gowns, which are now of darkcotton instead of pink; but their hoops are as large, and their faces asimpudent as ever, forcing Papa to restrain his grin, particularly whenthey stand in double file on each side of the table, all in the samepose, with their arms crossed before them, when we enter thedining-room. We are glad to find ourselves again here, for this hotel bears away thepalm from all others we have seen in America, with the exception of thatat Harrisburgh, which can alone compare with it in the general beauty ofthe rooms. To describe, for instance, the bedroom in which we are nowsitting. The room is about twenty-four feet square, having two largewindows looking to the street, and a mirror and handsome marbleconsol-table between them. The windows have very handsome gilt cornices, with tamboured muslin curtains, and others of a blue and gold coloureddamask; there are two large sofas, and four small chairs of dark walnutwood, carved and covered with the same material as the curtains, and asmaller chair with a tapestry seat--also a large rocking-chair coveredwith Utrecht velvet. The bed is of prettily carved black walnut, thewash-hand-stand the same, with marble slab; there is a very handsomeBrussels carpet, a large round table, at which I am now writing, a veryhandsome bronze and ormolu lustre, with six gaslights, and two ormolucandelabra on the chimney-piece. The chimney-piece is of white marble, and over it is a most gorgeously carved mirror. The room is aboutfourteen feet high; the ceiling slightly alcoved and painted inmedallions of flowers on a blue ground, with a great deal of very wellpainted and gilt moulding, which Papa at first thought was really inrelief. The paper is a white ground, with a gold pattern, and a colouredborder above, and below, and at the angles of the room; the door leadsinto a very fine wide passage, and there are two others, each leadinginto an adjoining room, all painted pure white; so is theskirting-board; and the door handles are white porcelain. Thrower'sroom, next ours, is much the same, but of about half the size. There areVenetian blinds to the windows, not made to draw up, but folding likeshutters, and divided into several small panels. Our two windows lookinto a broad cheerful street, in which the snow is lying deep, and thewhole scene is enlivened, every now and then, by the sleighs and theirmerry bells as they pass along. _Nov. 29th. _--Yesterday the morning was very brilliant. Being desirousof seeing a Shaker village, and the nature of their service, we hadordered a vehicle over night to be ready at nine o'clock, when a sleighmade its appearance at the door, with skins of fur and every applianceto keep us warm. These sleighs are most elegant machines, and this onehad a hood, though this is not a common appendage. It was drawn by apair of horses, the driver standing in front. The road was, at first, upa steep hill, but the horses seemed as if they had no weight behindthem. On reaching the high land the view, looking back upon the river, was very pretty. The whole country was deeply covered with snow, and inmany places, where it had drifted, it had the appearance of large waves, of which the crests curled gracefully over, and looked as if they hadbeen frozen in the act of curling: some of these crests or waves werefour or five feet above the level of the road. We were about an hourreaching the village, and were much disappointed to find the gate at theentrance closed, and a painted board hung on it, to announce there wouldbe no meeting that day. Nothing could exceed the apparent order anddecorum of the place; but we could not effect a closer approach, thoughour driver tried hard to gain admittance for us. We therefore returnedto Albany, but took a different road home, and enjoyed our sleighingmuch; and the cheerful sound of the bells round our horses' necks wasquite enlivening; still, in spite of our wraps, we must confess that wewere not sorry when it was over. On our return to the town we entered achurch and heard the end of a sermon. It was a large Baptist church; butwe were rather late, for we were told, by a boy at the door, that "thetext had been on about forty minutes;" but, to judge from the sample wehad of the discourse, we were probably no great losers. The church was ahandsome building, but we were chiefly attracted by the followingnotice, in large letters, at the entrance. UNION PRAYER MEETING DAILY IN THIS CHURCH, FROM TWELVE TO ONE O'CLOCK. "Come in, if only for a few moments; all are welcome. " After leaving the church we walked towards the Capitol, which issituated at the end of a very wide street, State Street, and, as thisstreet rises by a tolerably steep ascent from the river, there is anextensive view over the river and the adjacent country from the plateauon which the Capitol stands. There are two very handsome buildingsadjoining, of fine white stone, with Greek porticoes; but the Capitolitself, which is a considerably older building than the others, is ofred brick. We had not time to explore further, for a heavy snow stormcame on, which lasted for the rest of the day. _Boston, Nov. 30th. _--Yesterday morning we started early for thisplace, and the journey occupied the whole day. We had travelled thisroad before when the country was rich in its summer clothing, and thecontrast was very strange as we saw it to-day. The heavy fall of snowthe night before had covered not only the ground but the trees of theforests and the ponds and lakes, which were all frozen over. TheConnecticut, however, glided calmly along, though it too was frozen overabove the places where falls in the river obstructed the current. Wepassed several of these, which had a curious appearance, long andmassive icicles hanging along the whole crest of the fall, and curiouslyintermingling with the water which was pouring over the rocks. Thebeautiful New England villages were as white as ever, the white snowscarcely detracting from the purity of the whiteness of the buildings. It was a splendid day, without a cloud in the sky, and the sun shiningon the snow gave it a most brilliant and sparkling appearance. To-day we have been chiefly engaged in shopping; but we contrived, besides, to see the public Library and Athenæum, as well as the Hospitaland Prison, which Papa went over with Lord Radstock when we were firsthere, both of which fully bear out the account he gave me of them. Wefeel quite sad to think that this is our last day in America, for wehave enjoyed ourselves much; Papa has, indeed, up till late thisevening, been engaged in business; but you are not to suppose from thisthat he has never had any relaxation; I am most thankful to say, on thecontrary, that much of our time has been a holiday, and I trust hishealth has much benefited by our travels. But, whatever our regrets maybe at leaving this interesting country, I need scarcely say with whatdelight we look forward to a return home to our dear children, where, Itrust, a fortnight hence, to find you all well and prospering. Weembark, at nine to-morrow morning, in the "Canada" for Liverpool, whereI shall hope to add a few lines to this on landing. _December 11th, off Cape Clear. _--As it may be late to-morrow before weland, and we may not have time to write from Liverpool, I shall closethis now, or at all events only add a line from that place. Barring asevere gale of wind, our voyage has been tolerably prosperous since weleft Halifax; but I must not anticipate, as I wish to say a little moreabout Boston, for I omitted in my last day's Journal to mention theadmirable arrangement on the Western Railway, by which we came fromAlbany, as regards checking the luggage. This practice, as I havealready told you, is universal, but, generally speaking, one of the_employés_ of the Packet Express Company takes charge of the checksbefore the passengers leave the cars, and for a trifling charge theluggage is delivered at any hotel the passenger may direct; where thisis not done, the checks are usually given to the conductor of theomnibus, of which almost every hotel sends its own to the station. Butthis latter practice leads to much noise, each conductor shouting outthe name of his hotel, as is done at Boulogne and elsewhere on thearrival of the packets. On gliding into the spacious station at Bostonwe were prepared to encounter this struggle, our checks not having beengiven up in the car; but, to our surprise, there was a total absence ofthis noisy scene, and on looking out we saw along the platform a rangeof beautiful gothic recesses, over each of which was written the name ofan hotel, and we had only to walk along till we came to "Tremont House, "when, without a word passing, we slipped into the hand of a manstationed within, the checks for our baggage, he simply indicating "No. 2" as the omnibus we were to get into. Walking to the end of theplatform, we found a complete row of omnibuses, all consecutivelynumbered, and marched in silence to No. 2, which in a minute or twodrove off with us and the other passengers destined for the TremontHouse; we found this, as before, a very comfortable hotel, and ourluggage was there within a few minutes after our arrival. Before quitting the subject of the American hotels, we ought to statethat, from what we hear, unhappy single gentlemen meet with a verydifferent fate to that of persons travelling in company with ladies. Onepoor friend greatly bewailed his lot after he had left his wife atToronto; on presenting himself at the "office" of the hotel he used tobe eyed most suspiciously, especially when they saw his rough drabcoloured travelling dress, for the criterion of a genteel American is ablack coat and velvet collar. He was accordingly sent in general to agarret, and other travellers have told us the same; one on board thesteamers quite confirmed this account, and told us he considered it apiece of great luxury when he had a gaslight in his room. He made thisremark on our reading to him the account I have given of our room inAlbany and its splendid six-light candelabra. But to go on with our adventures: we embarked on board the steamer at 9A. M. On Wednesday, the 1st December. The view of the harbour of Boston, formed by a variety of islands, was most beautiful, in spite of the deepsnow which covered them. The day was brilliantly sunny, but intenselycold, and it continued bitterly cold till we reached Halifax on Thursdaynight. The Boston steamers always touch at that place, and the liabilityto detention by fogs in making the harbour, renders this passage often adisagreeable one in the foggy season; but when the weather is as cold asnow, it is invariably clear, and we steered up the beautiful harbour ofHalifax with no interruption but that caused by the closing in of theday, rendering it necessary to slacken our speed as we neared the town. It was dark when we arrived, but having two hours to spare, we took awalk, and after passing through the town-gate, saw what we could of theplace, respecting which I felt great interest, from my father havingbeen Chief-justice there many years; his picture by West, of which wehave a copy in D. P. H. By West himself, is at the Court House; but ofcourse we could not see it so late at night; and, in fact, could only goto one or two shops to make some purchases as memorials of the place. Itbegan to snow hard before we returned on board, and the cold was sointense, though less so since the snow began, that the upper part ofthe harbour above where we stopped was frozen over. We took Sir Fenwick Williams, of Kars, and a great many other officers, on board at Halifax, and sailed again at midnight. Next day the intensecold returned, and a severe north-wester made it almost impossible tokeep on deck. Every wave that dashed over us, left its traces behind ina sheet of ice spread over the deck, and in the icicles which werehanging along the bulwarks, and formed a fringe to the boats which werehanging inside the ship; one poor passenger, with a splendid beard, toldus he found it quite hard and stiff, and we could have told him how muchwe admired the icicles which were hanging to it. The thermometer, however, was only at 15°, it being the wind that made it so intenselycold. I did not get on deck, for, owing to the coating of ice, walkingon it became a service of some danger; and I did my best to keep Papafrom going up, though he often insisted on doing so, to enjoy the beautyof the scene. The captain says that it is sometimes most trying to be onthis coast in winter, as the thermometer, instead of being 15° abovezero as it was then, is often 15° below, when the ropes and everythingbecome frozen. This cold lasted till Monday, when we were clear of "thebanks, " and fairly launched into the wide Atlantic. The wind continuedto blow strongly from the north-west, with a considerable amount of sea, which put an end to my even thinking of going on deck, but Papapersevered, and every day passed many hours there, walking up and downand enjoying it much, especially as it was daily getting warmer. Iwished much I could have accompanied him, but by this time I wascompletely prostrated by sea-sickness. The weather, though blowy, continued very fine till Tuesday at fouro'clock, when Papa came down and told me to prepare for a gale; anominous black cloud had shown itself in the north-west horizon; thiswould not of itself have created much sensation, had it not beenaccompanied by an extraordinary fall in the barometer; it had, in fact, been falling for twenty-four hours, for at noon on Monday it stoodrather above 30, and at midnight was as low as 29·55, which, in theselatitudes, is a great fall. But on Tuesday, at nine A. M. , it had fallento 28·80, when it began rapidly to sink, till at half-past three itstood at 28·40, showing a fall of more than an inch and a half since thepreceding day at noon. It seems that this is almost unprecedented, sothat when the little black cloud appeared, every sail was taken in, andthe main topmast and fore top-gallantmast lowered down on deck, and thiswas not done a bit too soon, for by half-past four, it blew a hurricane. The captain told a naval officer on board, that he had thought ofputting the ship's head towards the gale, to let it blow past, but onfurther consideration, he put her right before it, though at the expenseof losing a good deal of ground, as it made us go four points out of ourcourse. Papa, who was on deck, said it was most magnificent to hear thefierce wind tearing past the vessel, and to see the ship not swaying inthe least one way or another, but driving forwards with the mastsperpendicular, as if irresistibly impelled through the water, withoutappearing to feel the waves. But alas, alas, this absence of motion, which was a paradise to me, lasted but some twenty minutes, while thefury of the blast continued. We ran before the gale for the next fourhours, when it sufficiently moderated to enable us to resume our propercourse. The gale continued, however, till four next morning, and such a night Inever passed. The doctor said, neither he nor any officer in the shipcould sleep, and next morning the poor stewardess and our peculiar cabinboy mournfully deplored their fate, the former being forced to confessthat, though for years accustomed to the sea, she had been desperatelysick. In fact no one had ever known the vessel to roll before as she didthis night, and the sounds were horrible. The effect of one sea, inparticular, striking the ship was appalling, from the perfect stillnesswhich followed it. The vessel seemed quite to stagger under the blow andto be paralysed by it, so that several seconds must have elapsed beforethe heavy rolling recommenced. This, and the creaking and groaning ofthe vessel, had something solemn about it; but some minor sounds wereneither so grand nor so philosophically borne by either Papa or myself. One of the most persevering of these arose from my carelessness inhaving forgotten to bolt the door of a cupboard which I made use of, inour cabin, the consequence of which was that, with every lurch of thevessel, the door gave a violent slam, and our lamp having been put outat midnight, as it invariably was, we were in total darkness, andwithout the means of ascertaining whether the irritating noiseproceeded, as we suspected, from the cupboard door, or from one of thedoors having been left open in the passage adjoining our cabin. It wouldhave been dangerous to have got up in the dark, and with a violentlurching of the vessel, to discover the real cause of this wearisomenoise. I had a strong feeling of self-reproach in my own mind at havingbrought such a calamity on poor Papa, when it could have been avoided ifI had been a little more careful before going to bed. On, therefore, the noise went, for the rest of that night, with greatregularity--slam--slam--slam--defying every attempt to obtain even fiveminutes of sleep. With the first gleam of dawn I plainly saw that ourown peccant door was the cause, and I was able by that time, with somecaution, to rise and secure the bolt, and thus relieve ourselves, andprobably our neighbours, from the weary sound. Sleep, however, on my part was, under any circumstances, out of thequestion, for I was under great anxiety lest Papa should be pitched outof his berth, as he slept in the one above mine. Before retiring for thenight I had consulted the surgeon on the subject, having heard that asteward had been once thrown out of his berth in this vessel undersimilar circumstances. The surgeon assured me that he had never heard ofsuch an accident, and Papa reminded me that his height would save himfrom such a calamity, for the berths being only six feet long he could, by stretching himself out to his full length, wedge himself in and holdon by his head and heels, and so, in fact, he did; but many passed thenight on the floors in their cabin, particularly the children, who hadnot the advantage of being six feet three. Next morning the surgeon saidhe would not himself have slept where Papa did, and I suspect few of theupper berths were occupied. So much for the value of a medical opinion! I was very sorry I could not go on deck on either of the following days, for though the gale had abated, the wind continued sufficiently strongto keep up a splendid sea. Papa, however, says that it was more theforce of the wind when the gale first began, than the height of the seathat was remarkable, as the gale did not last long enough to get up a_proper_ sea, though what that would have been I cannot imagine, as theeffects, such as they were, were sufficiently serious for me. Sincethen, things have gone on prosperously, but we have only to-night comein sight of the lights on Cape Clear. The sea mercifully is somewhatsmoother, and has allowed me to write this long story; and I am going tobed with a fairer prospect of sleep than I have had for the last fewnights. _Sunday night, Sept. 12th. _--The wind got up again in the night, and hasdelayed us much, so that we are still outside the bar of the Mersey:for some hours it has been doubtful whether we should land to-night inOld England, or pass another night on board. The uncertainty of our fatehas caused an evening of singular excitement, owing to several of thepassengers going perpetually on deck and bringing down news, either thatwe were in the act of crossing the bar, or that we had crossed it, orthat all this was wrong and that we were still outside. As often as itwas announced, and that with the most positive assertion, that we shouldland to-night, there was great joy and glee among all the passengers, excepting ourselves and a few others who had visions of a late CustomHouse examination in a dark and dismal night with pouring rain, and aconviction that landing before morning would not bring us to London anysooner than doing so early to-morrow, and so we secretly hoped all thetime that we were neither on nor over the bar. Betting, as usual, beganon the subject, and the excitement was still at its height when officialinformation was brought to us that we neither had attempted nor meant toattempt to cross the bar till five o'clock to-morrow morning. We havetherefore easily made up our minds to what I fear is a disappointment tomany. We trust now to have a quiet night, for we are lying-to, and areas still as at anchor, and hope on awaking to-morrow morning, to findourselves in the dock at Liverpool; in which case we shall rush up by anearly train to London. Here, therefore, ends our Journal; but before closing it, I must add afew lines to say what cause we have had to feel deeply thankful for allthe mercies that have followed us by land and by sea. We have travelleda distance of nearly 6000 miles, in a country where accidents frequentlyoccur, both on the railways and in steam-boats, and have never for onemoment been exposed to peril, or experienced one feeling of anxiety. Wehave met everywhere with great attention, kindness, and hospitality, andhave been preserved in perfect health. Besides our land and riverjourneys, we have made two long voyages across the wide Atlantic, and inthe midst of a tempest, which was a very severe one, the Hand of Godprotected us and preserved us from danger, and, better still, kept ourminds in peace and confidence, and in remembrance that He who ruleth thewaves, could guide and succour us in every time of need, so that even Ifelt no fear; Papa has had more experience of storms at sea, and wasless likely to feel any, but his confidence, too, was in knowing that wewere under Divine protection, and that our part was to TRUST; and inthis we had our reward. In thus enumerating the many subjects of thankfulness during our absencefrom home, I must reckon as one of the chief of our blessings, thecomfort we have experienced in so constantly receiving the very bestaccounts of you all; and when we think of the many thousands of milesthat have separated us, we may indeed feel full of gratitude that, neither on one side of the ocean nor the other, have we had any reasonfor anxiety concerning each other. In a few hours more, we shall, Itrust, have the joy and gladness of seeing all your dear faces again, and be rejoicing together over our safe return from our interesting anddelightful expedition to the NEW WORLD. FOOTNOTES: [14] The issues of the British and Foreign Bible Society during the sameperiod were 1, 517, 858; but the circulation of the American Bible Societyis almost entirely limited to the American continent, and for theirforeign Missions, while a large portion of ours goes to supply theColonies. [15] Aunt Sally is a real person still living at Detroit on LakeMichigan, with her son, the Rev. Isaac Williams, who is the ministerthere of the Methodist church. [16] We must admit that our experience differs greatly from that ofmany; and, looking at the statistics of railway travelling, accidents dooccur with frightful frequency. In a report recently published by thePhiladelphia and Reading Railway, the accidents which occurred on thatline alone in 1855, amounted to no less than 179 in a year, and this ona line where there is no great press of traffic. In these accidents, 619cars were broken, 29 people killed, and 7 wounded. Things are since alittle improved; as, last year, 1858, there were only 26 cases of killedand wounded, and, the Report adds, as if consolatory to the feelings ofthe natives, "of these 18 were strangers. " THE END. LONDONPRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE. * * * * * A CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE PUBLISHED BY LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, AND ROBERTS 39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. * * * * * CLASSIFIED INDEX +Agriculture and Rural Affairs. + Bayldon on Valuing Rents, &c. 5Cecil's Stud Farm 8Hoskyns's Talpa 11Loudon's Agriculture 14Low's Elements of Agriculture 14Morton on Landed Estates 17 +Arts, Manufactures, and Architecture. + Bourne on the Screw Propeller 6Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 " Organic Chemistry 6Chevreul on Colour 8Cresy's Civil Engineering 8Fairbairn's Information for Engineers 9Gwilt's Encyclopædia of Architecture 10Harford's Plates from M. Angelo 10Humphreys's _Parables_ Illuminated 12Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art 12, 13 " Commonplace-Book 13Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther 10Loudon's Rural Architecture 14Mac Dougall's Campaigns of Hannibal 15 " Theory of War 15Moseley's Engineering 17Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19Scoffern on Projectiles, &c. 20Scrivenor on the Iron Trade 20Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club 6Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. 23 +Biography. + Arago's Lives of Scientific Men 5Brialmont's Wellington 6Bunsen's Hippolytus 7Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials 9Gleig's Essays 10Green's Princesses of England 10Harford's Life of Michael Angelo 10Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13Maunder's Biographical Treasury 15Mountain's (Col. ) Memoirs 17Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs 18Russell's Memoirs of Moore 16 " (Dr. ) Life of Mezzofanti 20SchimmelPenninck's (Mrs. ) Life 20Southey's Life of Wesley 21 " Life and Correspondence 21Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22Strickland's Queens of England 22Sydney Smith's Memoirs 21Symonds's (Admiral) Memoirs 22Taylor's Loyola 22 " Wesley 22Uwins's Memoirs and Letters 23Waterton's Autobiography and Essays 34 +Books of General Utility. + Acton's Bread-Book 5 " Cookery-Book 5Black's Treatise on Brewing 6Cabinet Gazetteer 7 " Lawyer 7Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9Gilbart's Logic for the Million 10Hints on Etiquette 11How to Nurse Sick Children 12Hudson's Executor's Guide 12 " on Making Wills 12Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 13Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13Loudon's Lady's Country Companion 14Maunder's Treasury of Knowledge 15 " Biographical Treasury 15 " Geographical Treasury 16 " Scientific Treasury 15 " Treasury of History 16 " Natural History 16Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18Pocket and the Stud 10Pycroft's English Reading 19Reece's Medical Guide 19Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19Roget's English Thesaurus 20Rowton's Debater 20Short Whist 21Thomson's Interest Tables 22Webster's Domestic Economy 24West on Children's Diseases 24Willich's Popular Tables 24Wilmot's Blackstone 24 +Botany and Gardening. + Hassall's British Freshwater Algæ 11Hooker's British Flora 11 " Guide to Kew Gardens 11 " " " Kew Museum 11Lindley's Introduction to Botany 14 " Theory of Horticulture 14Loudon's Hortus Britannicus 14 " Amateur Gardener 14 " Trees and Shrubs 14 " Gardening 14 " Plants 14Pereira's Materia Medica 18Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide 19Wilson's British Mosses 24 +Chronology. + Blair's Chronological Tables 6Brewer's Historical Atlas 6Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 7Calendars of English State Papers 7Haydn's Beatson's Index 11Jaquemet's Chronology 13 " Abridged Chronology 13 +Commerce and Mercantile Affairs. + Gilbart's Treatise on Banking 10Lorimer's Young Master Mariner 14Macleod's Banking 15M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation 15Murray on French Finance 18Scrivenor on the Iron Trade 20Thomson's Interest Tables 22Tooke's History of Prices 22 +Criticism, History, and Memoirs. + Blair's Chron. And Historical Tables 6Brewer's Historical Atlas 6Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 7 " Hippolytus 7Calendars of English State Papers 7Capgrave's Illustrious Henries 8Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus 8Chronicles and Memorials of England 8Connolly's Sappers and Miners 8Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8Crowe's History of France 9Fischer's Francis Bacon 9Gleig's Essays 10Gurney's Historical Sketches 10Hayward's Essays 11Herschel's Essays and Addresses 11Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 13Kemble's Anglo-Saxons 13Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays 14 " History of England 14 " Speeches 14Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 15 " History of England 15M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15Maunder's Treasury of History 16Merivale's History of Rome 16 " Roman Republic 16Milner's Church History 16Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. 16Mure's Greek Literature 17Normanby's Year of Revolution 18Perry's Franks 18Raikes's Journal 19Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review 20Roget's English Thesaurus 20Schmitz's History of Greece 20Southey's Doctor 21Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 " Lectures on French History 22Sydney Smith's Works 21 " Lectures 21 " Memoirs 21Taylor's Loyola 22 " Wesley 22Thirlwall's History of Greece 22Thomas's Historical Notes 27Townsend's State Trials 22Turner's Anglo-Saxons 23 " Middle Ages 23 " Sacred History of the World 23Uwins's Memoirs and Letters 23Vehse's Austrian Court 23Wade's England's Greatness 24Young's Christ of History 24 +Geography and Atlases. + Brewer's Historical Atlas 6Butler's Geography and Atlases 7Cabinet Gazetteer 7Johnston's General Gazetteer 13M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 16Maunder's Treasury of Geography 16Murray's Encyclopædia of Geography 17Sharp's British Gazetteer 21 +Juvenile Books. + Amy Herbert 20Cleve Hall 20Earl's Daughter (The) 20Experience of Life 20Gertrude 20Howitt's Boy's Country Book 12 " (Mary) Children's Year 12Ivors 20Katharine Ashton 20Laneton Parsonage 20Margaret Percival 20Pycroft's Collegian's Guide 19 +Medicine, Surgery, &c. + Brodie's Psychological Inquiries 7Bull's Hints to Mothers 6 " Management of Children 6Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9Holland's Mental Physiology 11 " Medical Notes and Reflections 11How to Nurse Sick Children 12Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 13Pereira's Materia Medica 18Reece's Medical Guide 19Richardson's Cold-water Cure 19Spencer's Principles of Psychology 21West on Diseases of Infancy 24 +Miscellaneous Literature. + Bacon's (Lord) Works 5Defence of _Eclipse of Faith_ 9Eclipse of Faith 9Greathed's Letters from Delhi 10Greyson's Select Correspondence 10Gurney's Evening Recreations 10Hassall's Adulterations Detected, &c. 11Haydn's Book of Dignities 11Holland's Mental Physiology 11Hooker's Kew Guides 11Howitt's Rural Life of England 12 " Visits to Remarkable Places 12Jameson's Commonplace-Book 13Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 13Last of the Old Squires 18Letters of a Betrothed 13Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays 14 " Speeches 14Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 15Martineau's Miscellanies 15Pycroft's English Reading 19Raikes on the Indian Revolt 19Rees's Siege of Lucknow 19Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19Rowton's Debater 20Seaward's Narrative of his Shipwreck 20Sir Roger De Coverley 21Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works 21Southey's Doctor, &c. 21Spencer's Essays 21Stephen's Essays 22Stow's Training System 22Thomson's Laws of Thought 22Tighe and Davis's Windsor 22Townsend's State Trials 22Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon 24 " Latin Gradus 24Zumpt's Latin Grammar 24 +Natural History in general. + Catlow's Popular Conchology 8Ephemera's Book of the Salmon 9Garratt's Marvels of Instinct 10Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica 10Kirby and Spence's Entomology 13Lee's Elements of Natural History 13Maunder's Natural History 16Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist 19Turton's Shells of the British Islands 23Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 23Waterton's Essays on Natural History 24Youatt's The Dog 24 " The Horse 24 +One-Volume Encyclopædias and Dictionaries. + Blaine's Rural Sports 6Brande's Science, Literature, and Art 6Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8Cresy's Civil Engineering 8Gwilt's Architecture 10Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 13Loudon's Agriculture 14 " Rural Architecture 14 " Gardening 14 " Plants 14 " Trees and Shrubs 14M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15 " Dictionary of Commerce 15Murray's Encyclopædia of Geography 17Sharp's British Gazetteer 21Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. 23Webster's Domestic Economy 24 +Religious and Moral Works. + Amy Herbert 20Bloomfield's Greek Testament 6Calvert's Wife's Manual 8Cleve Hall 20Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8Cotton's Instructions in Christianity 8Dale's Domestic Liturgy 9Defence of _Eclipse of Faith_ 9Earl's Daughter (The) 20Eclipse of Faith 9Englishman's Greek Concordance 9 " Heb. & Chald. Concord. 9Experience (The) of Life 20Gertrude 20Harrison's Light of the Forge 10Horne's Introduction to Scriptures 11 " Abridgment of ditto 11Huc's Christianity in China 12Humphrey's _Parables_ Illuminated 12Ivors, by the Author of _Amy Herbert_ 20Jameson's Saints and Martyrs 12 " Monastic Legends 13 " Legends of the Madonna 13 " on Female Employment 13Jeremy Taylor's Works 13Katharine Ashton 21Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther 10Laneton Parsonage 20Letters to my Unknown Friends 13 " on Happiness 13Lyra Germanica 7Maguire's Rome 15Margaret Percival 20Martineau's Christian Life 15 " Hymns 15 " Studies of Christianity 15Merivale's Christian Records 16Milner's Church of Christ 26Moore on the Use of the Body 26 " " Soul and Body 26 " 's Man and his Motives 26Morning Clouds 17Neale's Closing Scene 18Pattison's Earth and Word 18Powell's Christianity without Judaism 19Readings for Lent 20 " Confirmation 20Riddle's Household Prayers 19Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Testament 20Saints our Example 20Sermon in the Mount 20Sinclair's Journey of Life 21Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy 21 " (G. V. ) Assyrian Prophecies 21 " (G. ) Wesleyan Methodism 21 " (J. ) Shipwreck of St. Paul 21Southey's Life of Wesley 21Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22Taylor's Loyola 22 " Wesley 22Theologia Germanica 7Thumb Bible (The) 22Turner's Sacred History 23Young's Christ of History 24 " Mystery 24 +Poetry and the Drama. + Aikin's (Dr. ) British Poets 5Arnold's Merope 5 " Poems 5Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works 5Calvert's Wife's Manual 8Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated 10Horace, edited by Yonge 24L. E. L. 's Poetical Works 13Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis 14Lyra Germanica 7Macaulay's Laws of Ancient Rome 14MacDonald's Within and Without 15 " Poems 14Montgomery's Poetical Works 26Moore's Poetical Works 26 " Selections (illustrated) 26 " Lalla Rookh 17 " Irish Melodies 17 " National Melodies 17 " Sacred Songs (with Music) 17 " Songs and Ballads 16Reade's Poetical Works 19Shakspeare, by Bowdler 20Southey's Poetical Works 21Thomson's Seasons, illustrated 22 +Political Economy & Statistics. + Macleod's Political Economy 15M'Culloch's Geog. Statist. &c. Dict. 15 " Dictionary of Commerce 15Willich's Popular Tables 21 +The Sciences in general and Mathematics. + Arago's Meteorological Essays 5 " Popular Astronomy 5Bourne on the Screw Propeller 6 " 's Catechism of Steam-Engine 6Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual 6Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 " Lectures on Organic Chemistry 6Cresy's Civil Engineering 8Delabeche's Geology of Cornwall, &c. 9De la Rive's Electricity 9Grove's Correlation of Physical Forces 10Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy 11Holland's Mental Physiology 11Humboldt's Aspects of Nature 12 " Cosmos 12Hunt on Light 12Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13Marcet's (Mrs. ) Conversations 15Morell's Elements of Psychology 17Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 17Ogilvie's Master-Builder's Plan 18Owen's Lectures on Comp. 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The department of Travels contains some account of eight of theprincipal countries of Europe, as well as Travels in four districts ofAfrica, in four of America, and in three of Asia. Madame Pfeiffer's_First Journey round the World_ is included, and a general account ofthe _Australian Colonies_. In Biography and History will be found LordMacaulay's Biographical Sketches of _Warren Hastings, Clive, Pitt, Walpole, Bacon, _ and others, besides Memoirs of _Wellington, Turenne, F. Arago, _ &c. , an Essay on the Life and Genius of _Thomas Fuller_, withSelections from his Writings, by Mr. Henry Rogers; and a history of the_Leipsic Campaign_, by Mr. Gleig, --which is the only separate account ofthis remarkable campaign. Works of Fiction did not come within the planof the TRAVELLER'S LIBRARY, but the _Confessions of a Working Man_, bySouvestre, which is indeed a fiction founded on fact, has been included, and has been read with unusual interest by many of the working classes, for whose use it is especially recommended. Dumas's story of the _Maitred'Armes_, though in form a work of fiction, gives a striking picture ofan episode in the history of Russia. Amongst the works on Science andNatural Philosophy, a general view of Creation is embodied in Dr. Kemp's_Natural History of Creation_, and in his _Indications of Instinct_remarkable facts in natural history are collected. Dr. Wilson hascontributed a popular account of the _Electric Telegraph_. In thevolumes on the _Coal-Fields_, and on the Tin and other Mining Districtsof _Cornwall_, is given an account of the mineral wealth of England, thehabits and manners of the miners, and the scenery of the surroundingcountry. It only remains to add, that among the Miscellaneous Works area Selection of the best Writings of the Rev. Sydney Smith, LordCarlisle's _Lectures and Addresses_, an account of _Mormonism_, by theRev. W. J. Conybeare, an exposition of _Railway_ management andmismanagement by Mr. Herbert Spencer, an account of the Origin andPractice of _Printing_, by Mr. Stark; and an account of _London_, by Mr. M'Culloch--To be had, in _complete Sets only_, at £5. 5s. Per Set, boundin cloth and lettered. *** _The Traveller's Library_ may also behad as originally issued in 102 parts, 1s. Each, forming 50 vols. 2s. 6d. Each; or any separate parts or volumes. +Sharon Turner's Sacred History of the World+, Philosophicallyconsidered, in a Series of Letters to a Son. 3 vols. Post 8vo. 31s. 6d. +Sharon Turner's History of England during the Middle Ages;+ Comprisingthe Reigns from the Norman Conquest to the Accession of Henry VIII. 4vols. 8vo. 50s. +Sharon Turner's History of the Anglo-Saxons+, from the Earliest Periodto the Norman Conquest. 3 vols. 36s. +Dr. Turton's Manual of the Land and Fresh-Water Shells of GreatBritain. + With Figures of each of the kinds. New Edition, with Additionsby Dr. J. E. GREY, F. R. S. , &c. , Keeper of the Zoological Collection inthe British Museum. Crown 8vo. With 12 coloured Plates, price 15s. Cloth. +Dr. Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines:+ Containing aclear Exposition of their Principles and Practice. Fourth Edition, muchenlarged. With nearly 1, 600 Woodcuts. 2 vols. 8vo. 60s. +Uwins. --Memoir of Thomas Uwins. + R. A. By Mrs. UWINS. With Letters tohis Brothers during Seven Years spent in Italy; and Correspondence withthe late Sir Thomas Lawrence, Sir C. L. Eastlake, A. E. Chalon, R. A. , and other distinguished persons. 2 vols. Post 8vo. +Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology. + Translated from the Second DutchEdition by the Rev. WILLIAM CLARK, M. D. , F. R. S. , Professor of Anatomy inthe University of Cambridge; with additional References by the Author. 2vols. 8vo. With 24 Plates of Figures, price 60s. Cloth; or separately, VOL. I. _Invertebrata_, 30s. , and VOL. II. _Vertebrata_, 30s. +Vehse. --Memoirs of the Court, Aristocracy, and Diplomacy of Austria. +By Dr. E. VEHSE. Translated from the German by FRANZ DEMMLER. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 21s. +Von Tempsky. --Mitla;+ or, Incidents and Personal Adventures on aJourney in Mexico, Guatemala, and Salvador in the Years 1853 to 1855:With Observations on the Modes of Life in those Countries. By G. F. VONTEMPSKY. With numerous Illustrations. 8vo. 18s. +Wade. --England's Greatness:+ Its Rise and Progress In Government, Laws, Religion, and Social Life; Agriculture, Commerce, and Manufactures;Science, Literature and Arts, from the Earliest Period to the Peace ofParis. By JOHN WADE, Author of the _Cabinet Lawyer_, &c. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. +Wanderings in the Land of Ham. + By a DAUGHTER of JAPHET. Post 8vo. 8s. 6d. +Waterton. --Essays on Natural History, chiefly Ornithology. + By C. WATERTON, Esq. With an Autobiography of the Author, and Views of WaltonHall. 2 vols. Fcp. 8vo. 5s. Each. +Waterton's Essays on Natural History. + THIRD SERIES; with aContinuation of the Autobiography, and a Portrait of the Author. Fcp. 8vo. 6s. +Webster and Parkes's Encyclopædia of Domestic Economy;+ comprising suchsubjects as are most immediately connected with House-keeping: viz. TheConstruction of Domestic Edifices, with the Modes of Warming, Ventilating, and Lighting them--A description of the various Articles ofFurniture, with the Nature of their Materials--Duties of Servants--&c. With nearly 1, 000 Woodcuts. 8vo. 50s. +Weld. --Vacations in Ireland. + By CHARLES RICHARD WELD, Barrister-at-Law. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. +Weld. --A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada. + By C. R. WELD, Barrister. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. +West. --Lectures on the Diseases of Infancy and Childhood. + By CHARLESWEST, M. D. , Physician to the Hospital for Sick Children;Physician-Accoucheur to, and Lecturer on Midwifery at, St. Bartholomew'sHospital. 8vo. 14s. +Willich's Popular Tables for ascertaining the Value of Lifehold, Leasehold, and Church Property, Renewal Fines, &c. + With numerousadditional Tables--Chemical, Astronomical, Trigonometrical, Common andHyperbolic Logarithms; Constants, Squares, Cubes, Roots, Reciprocals, &c. Fourth Edition. Post 8vo. 10s. +Wilmot's Abridgment of Blackstone's Commentaries on the Laws ofEngland+, in a series of Letters from a Father to his Daughter. 12mo. 6s. 6d. +Wilson's Bryologia Britannica:+ Containing the Mosses of Great Britainand Ireland systematically arranged and described according to theMethod of _Bruch_ and _Schimper_; with 61 illustrative Plates. Being aNew Edition, enlarged and altered, of the _Muscologia Britannica_ ofMessrs. Hooker and Taylor. 8vo. 42s. ; or, with the Plates coloured, price £4. 4s. +Yonge. --- A New English-Greek Lexicon:+ Containing all the Greek Wordsused by Writers of good authority. By C. D. YONGE, B. A. _SecondEdition_, revised. Post 4to. 21s. +Yonge's New Latin Gradus:+ Containing Every Word used by the Poets ofgood authority. For the use of Eton, Westminster, Winchester, Harrow, and Rugby Schools; King's College, London; and Marlborough College. _Fifth Edition_. Post 8vo. 9s. ; or, with APPENDIX of _Epithets_, 12s. +Yonge's School Edition of Horace. +--Horace, with, concise English Notesfor Schools and Students. By the Rev. J. E. YONGE, King's College, Cambridge; Assistant Master at Eton. PART I. _Odes_ and _Epodes_, 12mo. 3s. ; PART II. _Satires_ and _Epistles_, 3s. 6d. +Youatt--The Horse. + By William Youatt. With a Treatise of Draught. NewEdition, with numerous Wood Engravings, from Designs by William Harvey. (Messrs. LONGMAN and Co. 's Edition should be ordered. ) 8vo. 10s. +Youatt. --The Dog. + By William Youatt. A New Edition; with numerousEngravings, from Designs by W. Harvey. 8vo. 6s. +Young. --The Christ of History:+ An Argument grounded in the Facts ofHis Life on Earth. By JOHN YOUNG, LL. D. Second Edition. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. +Young. --The Mystery;+ or, Evil and God. By JOHN YOUNG, LL. D. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. +Zumpt's Grammar of the Latin Language. + Translated and adapted for theuse of English Students by Dr. L. SCHMITZ, F. R. S. E. : With numerousAdditions and Corrections by the Author and Translator. 8vo. 14s. * * * * * DOMENECH'S MISSIONARY TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Just published, in One Volume, 8vo. With Map, price 10s. 6d. Cloth, MISSIONARY ADVENTURES IN TEXAS AND MEXICO: A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF SIX YEARS' SOJOURN IN THOSE REGIONS. By the Abbé DOMENECH. Translated from the French under the author's superintendence. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. "The chequered and perilous existence of a Catholic missionaryconsecrating himself to the cure of souls in the wilds of Texas andWestern America, his physical and moral struggles, are here portrayedwith a vivid truthfulness well calculated to arrest the sympathy of ourreaders. .. . This book requires no further recommendation from as thanthe analysis here given. Since the perusal of Livingstone's Africa, wehave read no traveller's journal with more instruction and pleasure. Itis eminently suggestive, too. " LEADER. "Domenech's tone throughout is one of profound conviction; and thehardships which he encountered, and which he relates with so muchsimplicity and modesty as to enforce belief, are proof that he took hismission to heart. In the two journeys he performed to America--journeysthat would have supplied a diffuse book-maker with matter for manyvolumes, the Abbé was almost every day exposed to dangers of hislife--sometimes from the climate, sometimes from the privations to whichhe was subjected, now from the rough character of the country heconstantly compelled to traverse in his spiritual journeys, anon fromthe violence of colonists or Indians. .. . It will be seen that readerswho expect an infinity of enjoyment from these missionary adventureswill not be disappointed. " DAILY TELEGRAPH. "The good and brave young Abbé Domenech, whose personal narrative we mayat once say we have found more readable and more informing than a dozenvolumes of ordinary adventure, is not unworthy to be named with Huc inthe annals of missionary enterprise; and we know not how to give himhigher praise. We speak of personal characteristics, and in these--inthe qualifications for a life of self-denying severity, not exercisedunder the protecting shadow of a cloister, but in hourly conflict withdanger and necessity--the one looks to us like a younger brother inlikeness to the other. His account of Texas, its physical geography, itsearlier and later history, its populations, settled and nomad, and ofthe history and customs of the Indian tribes and their forms ofreligious worship, is concisely full and clear; and now that the newdestiny of these regions is beginning to unfold itself, we recommend toparticular attention the few pages in which all that is worth knowingabout their past and present condition is summed up. .. . To us, the pagesin which the Abbé Domenech confesses the trials and sorrows of his ownheart are the most interesting of his book. They bear the stamp of aperfect and most touching sincerity; and, as we read them, we are moreand more impressed with the truth which they convey to all churches andall sects. It has been well said, that Heaven is a character before itis a place. The lesson which this personal narrative of a poormissionary teaches, stems to us to be that religion is a life before itis a dogma. " SATURDAY REVIEW. * * * * * London: LONGMAN, BROWN, and CO. , Paternoster Row.