This file was produced from images generously made available by theBibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica. Bnf. Fr. )

[Illustration: HARAR FROM THE COFFE STREAM]

FIRST FOOTSTEPS IN EAST AFRICA; OR, AN EXPLORATION OF HARAR. 

BYRICHARD F. BURTON

TOTHE HONORABLEJAMES GRANT LUMSDEN, MEMBER OF COUNCIL, ETC. ETC. BOMBAY. 

I have ventured, my dear Lumsden, to address you in, and inscribe to you, these pages. Within your hospitable walls my project of African travel wasmatured, in the fond hope of submitting, on return, to your friendlycriticism, the record of adventures in which you took so warm an interest. Dis aliter visum! Still I would prove that my thoughts are with you, andthus request you to accept with your wonted _bonhommie_ this feeble tokenof a sincere good will. 

PREFACE. 

Averse to writing, as well as to reading, diffuse Prolegomena, the authorfinds himself compelled to relate, at some length, the circumstances whichled to the subject of these pages. 

In May 1849, the late Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Malcolm, formerlySuperintendent of the Indian Navy, in conjunction with Mr. William JohnHamilton, then President of the Royal Geographical Society of GreatBritain, solicited the permission of the Court of Directors of theHonorable East India Company to ascertain the productive resources of theunknown Somali Country in East Africa. [1] The answer returned, was to thefollowing effect:--

"If a fit and proper person volunteer to travel in the Somali Country, hegoes as a private traveller, the Government giving no more protection tohim than they would to an individual totally unconnected with the service. They will allow the officer who obtains permission to go, during hisabsence on the expedition to retain all the pay and allowances he may beenjoying when leave was granted: they will supply him with all theinstruments required, afford him a passage going and returning, and paythe actual expenses of the journey. "

The project lay dormant until March 1850, when Sir Charles Malcolm andCaptain Smyth, President of the Royal Geographical Society of GreatBritain, waited upon the chairman of the Court of Directors of theHonorable East India Company. He informed them that if they would draw upa statement of what was required, and specify how it could be carried intoeffect, the document should be forwarded to the Governor-General of India, with a recommendation that, should no objection arise, either from expenseor other causes, a fit person should be permitted to explore the SomaliCountry. 

Sir Charles Malcolm then offered the charge of the expedition to Dr. Carter of Bombay, an officer favourably known to the Indian world by hisservices on board the "Palinurus" brig whilst employed upon the maritimesurvey of Eastern Arabia. Dr. Carter at once acceded to the terms proposedby those from whom the project emanated; but his principal object being tocompare the geology and botany of the Somali Country with the results ofhis Arabian travels, he volunteered to traverse only that part of EasternAfrica which lies north of a line drawn from Berberah to Ras Hafun, --infact, the maritime mountains of the Somal. His health not permitting himto be left on shore, he required a cruizer to convey him from place toplace, and to preserve his store of presents and provisions. By this meanshe hoped to land at the most interesting points and to penetrate here andthere from sixty to eighty miles inland, across the region which heundertook to explore. 

On the 17th of August, 1850, Sir Charles Malcolm wrote to Dr. Carter inthese terms:--"I have communicated with the President of the RoyalGeographical Society and others: the feeling is, that though much valuableinformation could no doubt be gained by skirting the coast (as youpropose) both in geology and botany, yet that it does not fulfil theprimary and great object of the London Geographical Society, which was, and still is, to have the interior explored. " The Vice-Admiral, however, proceeded to say that, under the circumstances of the case, Dr. Carter'splans were approved of, and asked him to confer immediately with CommodoreLushington; then Commander in Chief of the Indian Navy. 

In May, 1851, Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Malcolm died: geographers andtravellers lost in him an influential and an energetic friend. During theten years of his superintendence over the Indian Navy that service rose, despite the incubus of profound peace, to the highest distinction. Hefreely permitted the officers under his command to undertake the task ofgeographical discovery, retaining their rank, pay, and batta, whilst theactual expenses of their journeys were defrayed by contingent bills. Allpapers and reports submitted to the local government were favourablyreceived, and the successful traveller looked forward to distinction andadvancement. 

During the decade which elapsed between 1828 and 1838, "officers of theIndian Navy journeyed, as the phrase is, _with their lives in theirhands_, through the wildest districts of the East. Of these we name thelate Commander J. A. Young, Lieutenants Wellsted, Wyburd, Wood, andChristopher, retired Commander Ormsby, the present Capt. H. B. Lynch C. B. , Commanders Felix Jones and W. C. Barker, Lieutenants Cruttenden andWhitelock. Their researches extended from the banks of the Bosphorus tothe shores of India. Of the vast, the immeasurable value of suchservices, " to quote the words of the Quarterly Review (No. Cxxix. Dec. 1839), "which able officers thus employed, are in the mean time renderingto science, to commerce, to their country, and to the whole civilizedworld, we need say nothing:--nothing we could say would be too much. "

"In five years, the admirable maps of that coral-bound gulf--the Red Sea--were complete: the terrors of the navigation had given place to theconfidence inspired by excellent surveys. In 1829 the Thetis of ten guns, under Commander Robert Moresby, convoyed the first coal ship up the RedSea, of the coasts of which this skilful and enterprising seaman made acursory survey, from which emanated the subsequent trigonometricaloperations which form our present maps. Two ships were employed, the'Benares' and 'Palinurus, ' the former under Commander Elwon, the latterunder Commander Moresby. It remained, however, for the latter officer tocomplete the work. Some idea may be formed of the perils these officersand men went through, when we state the 'Benares' was forty-two timesaground. 

"Robert Moresby, the genius of the Red Sea, conducted also the survey ofthe Maldive Islands and groups known as the Chagos Archipelago. Henarrowly escaped being a victim to the deleterious climate of his station, and only left it when no longer capable of working. A host of young andardent officers, --Christopher, Young, Powell, Campbell, Jones, Barker, andothers, --ably seconded him: death was busy amongst them for months and soparalyzed by disease were the living, that the anchors could scarcely beraised for a retreat to the coast of India. Renovated by a three months'stay, occasionally in port, where they were strengthened by additionalnumbers, the undaunted remnants from time to time returned to their task;and in 1837, gave to the world a knowledge of those singular groups whichheretofore--though within 150 miles of our coasts--had been a mysteryhidden within the dangers that environed them. The beautiful maps of theRed Sea, drafted by the late Commodore Carless [2], then a lieutenant, will ever remain permanent monuments of Indian Naval Science, and thedaring of its officers and men. Those of the Maldive and Chagos groups, executed by Commander then Acting Lieutenant Felix Jones, were, we hear, of such a high order, that they were deemed worthy of special inspectionby the Queen. "

"While these enlightening operations were in progress, there were othersof this profession, no less distinguished, employed on similardiscoveries. The coast of Mekran westward from Scinde, was little known, but it soon found a place in the hydrographical offices of India, underCaptain, then Lieutenant, Stafford Haines, and his staff, who were engagedon it. The journey to the Oxus, made by Lieut. Wood, Sir. A. Burnes'scompanion in his Lahore and Afghan missions, is a page of history whichmay not be opened to us again in our own times; while in Lieut. Carless'sdrafts of the channels of the Indus, we trace those designs, that thesword of Sir Charles Napier only was destined to reveal. "

"The ten years prior to that of 1839 were those of fitful repose, such asgenerally precedes some great outbreak. The repose afforded ample leisurefor research, and the shores of the island of Socotra, with the southcoast of Arabia, were carefully delineated. Besides the excellent maps ofthese regions, we are indebted to the survey for that unique work on Oman, by the late Lieut. Wellsted of this service, and for valuable notices fromthe pen of Lieut. Cruttenden. [3]

"Besides the works we have enumerated, there were others of the samenature, but on a smaller scale, in operation at the same period around ourown coasts. The Gulf of Cambay, and the dangerous sands known as theMolucca Banks, were explored and faithfully mapped by Captain RichardEthersey, assisted by Lieutenant (now Commander) Fell. Bombay Harbour wasdelineated again on a grand scale by Capt. R. Cogan, assisted by Lieut. Peters, now both dead; and the ink of the Maldive charts had scarcelydried, when the labours of those employed were demanded of the IndianGovernment by Her Majesty's authorities at Ceylon, to undertaketrigonometrical surveys of that Island, and the dangerous and shallowgulfs on either side of the neck of sand connecting it with India. Theywere the present Captains F. F. Powell, and Richard Ethersey, in theSchooner 'Royal Tiger' and 'Shannon, ' assisted by Lieut. (now Commander)Felix Jones, and the late Lieut. Wilmot Christopher, who fell in actionbefore Mooltan. The first of these officers had charge of one of thetenders under Lieut. Powell, and the latter another under Lieut. Ethersey. The maps of the Pamban Pass and the Straits of Manaar were by the hand ofLieut. Felix Jones, who was the draftsman also on this survey: they speakfor themselves. " [4]

In 1838 Sir Charles Malcolm was succeeded by Sir Robert Oliver, an "oldofficer of the old school"--a strict disciplinarian, a faithful and honestservant of Government, but a violent, limited, and prejudiced man. Hewanted "sailors, " individuals conversant with ropes and rigging, andsteeped in knowledge of shot and shakings, he loved the "rule of thumb, "he hated "literary razors, " and he viewed science with the profoundestcontempt. About twenty surveys were ordered to be discontinued as aninauguratory measure, causing the loss of many thousand pounds, independent of such contingencies as the "Memnon. " [5] Batta was withheldfrom the few officers who obtained leave, and the life of weary labour onboard ship was systematically made monotonous and uncomfortable:--in localphrase it was described as "many stripes and no stars. " Few measures wereomitted to heighten the shock of contrast. No notice was taken of papersforwarded to Government, and the man who attempted to distinguish himselfby higher views than quarter-deck duties, found himself marked out for theangry Commodore's red-hot displeasure. No place was allowed for charts andplans: valuable original surveys, of which no duplicates existed, laytossed amongst the brick and mortar with which the Marine Office was beingrebuilt. No instruments were provided for ships, even a barometer was notsupplied in one case, although duly indented for during five years. WhilstSir Charles Malcolm ruled the Bombay dockyards, the British name rose highin the Indian, African, and Arabian seas. Each vessel had its presents--guns, pistols, and powder, Abbas, crimson cloth and shawls, watches, telescopes, and similar articles--with a suitable stock of which everyofficer visiting the interior on leave was supplied. An order from SirRobert Oliver withdrew presents as well as instruments: with themdisappeared the just idea of our faith and greatness as a nationentertained by the maritime races, who formerly looked forward to thearrival of our cruizers. Thus the Indian navy was crushed by neglect androutine into a mere transport service, remarkable for little beyondconstant quarrels between sea-lieutenants and land-lieutenants, sailor-officers and soldier-officers, their "passengers. " And thus resulted thatdearth of enterprise--alluded to _ex cathedra_ by a late President of theRoyal Geographical Society of Great Britain--which now characterisesWestern India erst so celebrated for ardour in adventure. 

To return to the subject of East African discovery. Commodore Lushingtonand Dr. Carter met in order to concert some measures for forwarding theplans of a Somali Expedition. It was resolved to associate three persons, Drs. Carter and Stocks, and an officer of the Indian navy: a vessel wasalso warned for service on the coast of Africa. This took place in thebeginning of 1851: presently Commodore Lushington resigned his command, and the project fell to the ground. 

The author of these pages, after his return from El Hajaz to Bombay, conceived the idea of reviving the Somali Expedition: he proposed to startin the spring of 1854, and accompanied by two officers, to penetrate _via_Harar and Gananah to Zanzibar. His plans were favourably received by theRight Hon. Lord Elphinstone, the enlightened governor of the colony, andby the local authorities, amongst whom the name of James Grant Lumsden, then Member of Council, will ever suggest the liveliest feelings ofgratitude and affection. But it being judged necessary to refer once morefor permission to the Court of Directors, an official letter bearing datethe 28th April 1854 was forwarded from Bombay with a warm recommendation. Lieut. Herne of the 1st Bombay European Regiment of Fusileers, an officerskilful in surveying, photography, and mechanics, together with thewriter, obtained leave, pending the reference, and a free passage to Adenin Arabia. On the 23rd August a favourable reply was despatched by theCourt of Directors. 

Meanwhile the most painful of events had modified the original plan. Thethird member of the Expedition, Assistant Surgeon J. Ellerton Stocks, whose brilliant attainments as a botanist, whose long and enterprisingjourneys, and whose eminently practical bent of mind had twice recommendedhim for the honors and trials of African exploration, died suddenly in theprime of life. Deeply did his friends lament him for many reasons: auniversal favourite, he left in the social circle a void never to befilled up, and they mourned the more that Fate had not granted him thetime, as it had given him the will and the power, to trace a deeper andmore enduring mark upon the iron tablets of Fame. 

No longer hoping to carry out his first project, the writer determined tomake the geography and commerce of the Somali country his principalobjects. He therefore applied to the Bombay Government for the assistanceof Lieut. William Stroyan, I. N. , an officer distinguished by his surveyson the coast of Western India, in Sindh, and on the Panjab Rivers. It wasnot without difficulty that such valuable services were spared for thedeadly purpose of penetrating into Eastern Africa. All obstacles, however, were removed by their ceaseless and energetic efforts, who had fosteredthe author's plans, and early in the autumn of 1854, Lieut. Stroyanreceived leave to join the Expedition. At the same time, Lieut. J. H. Speke, of the 46th Regiment Bengal N. I. , who had spent many yearscollecting the Fauna of Thibet and the Himalayan mountains, volunteered toshare the hardships of African exploration. 

In October 1854, the writer and his companions received at Aden in Arabiathe sanction of the Court of Directors. It was his intention to march in abody, using Berberah as a base of operations, westwards to Harar, andthence in a south-easterly direction towards Zanzibar. 

But the voice of society at Aden was loud against the expedition. Therough manners, the fierce looks, and the insolent threats of the Somal--the effects of our too peaceful rule--had pre-possessed the timid colonyat the "Eye of Yemen" with an idea of extreme danger. The Anglo-Saxonspirit suffers, it has been observed, from confinement within any butwooden walls, and the European degenerates rapidly, as do his bull-dogs, his game-cocks, and other pugnacious animals, in the hot, enervating, andunhealthy climates of the East. The writer and his comrades wererepresented to be men deliberately going to their death, and the Somal atAden were not slow in imitating the example of their rulers. The savageshad heard of the costly Shoa Mission, its 300 camels and 50 mules, andthey longed for another rehearsal of the drama: according to them a vastoutlay was absolutely necessary, every village must be feasted, everychief propitiated with magnificent presents, and dollars must be dealt outby handfuls. The Political Resident refused to countenance the schemeproposed, and his objection necessitated a further change of plans. 

Accordingly, Lieut. Herne was directed to proceed, after the opening ofthe annual fair-season, to Berberah, where no danger was apprehended. Itwas judged that the residence of this officer upon the coast would producea friendly feeling on the part of the Somal, and, as indeed afterwardsproved to be the case, would facilitate the writer's egress from Harar, byterrifying the ruler for the fate of his caravans. [6] Lieut. Herne, whoon the 1st of January 1855, was joined by Lieut. Stroyan, resided on theAfrican coast from November to April; he inquired into the commerce, thecaravan lines, and the state of the slave trade, visited the maritimemountains, sketched all the places of interest, and made a variety ofmeteorological and other observations as a prelude to extensive research. 

Lieut. Speke was directed to land at Bunder Guray, a small harbour in the"Arz el Aman, " or "Land of Safety, " as the windward Somal style theircountry. His aim was to trace the celebrated Wady Nogal, noting itswatershed and other peculiarities, to purchase horses and camels for thefuture use of the Expedition, and to collect specimens of the reddishearth which, according to the older African travellers, denotes thepresence of gold dust. [7] Lieut. Speke started on the 23rd October 1854, and returned, after about three months, to Aden. He had failed, throughthe rapacity and treachery of his guide, to reach the Wady Nogal. But hehad penetrated beyond the maritime chain of hills, and his journal(condensed in the Appendix) proves that he had collected some novel andimportant information. 

Meanwhile the author, assuming the disguise of an Arab merchant, preparedto visit the forbidden city of Harar. He left Aden on the 29th of October1854, arrived at the capital of the ancient Hadiyah Empire on the 3rdJanuary 1855, and on the 9th of the ensuing February returned in safety toArabia, with the view of purchasing stores and provisions for a second anda longer journey. [8] What unforeseen circumstance cut short the career ofthe proposed Expedition, the Postscript of the present volume will show. 

The following pages contain the writer's diary, kept daring his march toand from Harar. It must be borne in mind that the region traversed on thisoccasion was previously known only by the vague reports of nativetravellers. All the Abyssinian discoverers had traversed the Dankali andother northern tribes: the land of the Somal was still a _terraincognita_. Harar, moreover, had never been visited, and few are thecities of the world which in the present age, when men hurry about theearth, have not opened their gates to European adventure. The ancientmetropolis of a once mighty race, the only permanent settlement in EasternAfrica, the reported seat of Moslem learning, a walled city of stonehouses, possessing its independent chief, its peculiar population, itsunknown language, and its own coinage, the emporium of the coffee trade, the head-quarters of slavery, the birth-place of the Kat plant, [9] andthe great manufactory of cotton-cloths, amply, it appeared, deserved thetrouble of exploration. That the writer was successful in his attempt, thefollowing pages will prove. Unfortunately it was found impossible to useany instruments except a pocket compass, a watch, and a portablethermometer more remarkable for convenience than correctness. But the waywas thus paved for scientific observation: shortly after the author'sdeparture from Harar, the Amir or chief wrote to the Acting PoliticalResident at Aden, earnestly begging to be supplied with a "Frankphysician, " and offering protection to any European who might be persuadedto visit his dominions. 

The Appendix contains the following papers connected with the movements ofthe expedition in the winter of 1854. 

1. The diary and observations made by Lieut. Speke, when attempting toreach the Wady Nogal. 

2. A sketch of the grammar, and a vocabulary of the Harari tongue. Thisdialect is little known to European linguists: the only notices of ithitherto published are in Salt's Abyssinia, Appendix I. P. 6-10. ; by BalbiAtlas Ethnogr. Tab. Xxxix. No. 297. ; Kielmaier, Ausland, 1840, No. 76. ;and Dr. Beke (Philological Journal, April 25. 1845. )

3. Meteorological observations in the cold season of 1854-55 by Lieuts. Herne, Stroyan, and the Author. 

4. A brief description of certain peculiar customs, noticed in Nubia, byBrown and Werne under the name of fibulation. 

5. The conclusion is a condensed account of an attempt to reach Harar fromAnkobar. [10] On the 14th October 1841, Major Sir William CornwallisHarris (then Captain in the Bombay Engineers), Chief of the Mission sentfrom India to the King of Shoa, advised Lieut. W. Barker, I. N. , whoseservices were imperatively required by Sir Robert Oliver, to return fromAbyssinia _via_ Harar, "over a road hitherto untrodden by Europeans. " AsHis Majesty Sahalah Selassie had offered friendly letters to the MoslemAmir, Capt. Harris had "no doubt of the success of the enterprise. "Although the adventurous explorer was prevented by the idle fears of theBedouin Somal and the rapacity of his guides from visiting the city, hispages, as a narrative of travel, will amply reward perusal. They have beenintroduced into this volume mainly with the view of putting the reader inpossession of all that has hitherto been written and not published, uponthe subject of Harar. [11] For the same reason the author has nothesitated to enrich his pages with observations drawn from LieutenantsCruttenden and Rigby. The former printed in the Transactions of the BombayGeographical Society two excellent papers: one headed a "Report on theMijjertheyn Tribe of Somallies inhabiting the district forming the NorthEast Point of Africa;" secondly, a "Memoir on the Western or Edoor Tribes, inhabiting the Somali coast of North East Africa; with the SouthernBranches of the family of Darood, resident on the banks of the WebbeShebayli, commonly called the River Webbe. " Lieut. C. P. Rigby, 16thRegiment Bombay N. I. , published, also in the Transactions of theGeographical Society of Bombay, an "Outline of the Somali Language, withVocabulary, " which supplied a great lacuna in the dialects of EasternAfrica. 

A perusal of the following pages will convince the reader that theextensive country of the Somal is by no means destitute of capabilities. Though partially desert, and thinly populated, it possesses valuablearticles of traffic, and its harbours export the produce of the Gurague, Abyssinian, Galla, and other inland races. The natives of the country areessentially commercial: they have lapsed into barbarism by reason of theirpolitical condition--the rude equality of the Hottentots, --but they appearto contain material for a moral regeneration. As subjects they offer afavourable contrast to their kindred, the Arabs of El Yemen, a raceuntameable as the wolf, and which, subjugated in turn by Abyssinian, Persian, Egyptian, and Turk, has ever preserved an indomitable spirit offreedom, and eventually succeeded in skaking off the yoke of foreigndominion. For half a generation we have been masters of Aden, fillingSouthern Arabia with our calicos and rupees--what is the present state ofaffairs there? We are dared by the Bedouins to come forth from behind ourstone walls and fight like men in the plain, --British _proteges_ areslaughtered within the range of our guns, --our allies' villages have beenburned in sight of Aden, --our deserters are welcomed and our fugitivefelons protected, --our supplies are cut off, and the garrison is reducedto extreme distress, at the word of a half-naked bandit, --the miscreantBhagi who murdered Capt. Mylne in cold blood still roams the hillsunpunished, --gross insults are the sole acknowledgments of our peacefulovertures, --the British flag has been fired upon without return, ourcruizers being ordered to act only on the defensive, --and our forbearanceto attack is universally asserted and believed to arise from merecowardice. Such is, and such will be, the character of the Arab!

The Sublime Porte still preserves her possessions in the Tahamah, and theregions conterminous to Yemen, by the stringent measures with whichMohammed Ali of Egypt opened the robber-haunted Suez road. Whenever a Turkor a traveller is murdered, a few squadrons of Irregular Cavalry areordered out; they are not too nice upon the subject of retaliation, andrarely refuse to burn a village or two, or to lay waste the crops near thescene of outrage. 

A civilized people, like ourselves, objects to such measures for manyreasons, of which none is more feeble than the fear of perpetuating ablood feud with the Arabs. Our present relations with them are a "verypretty quarrel, " and moreover one which time must strengthen, cannotefface. By a just, wholesome, and unsparing severity we may inspire theBedouin with fear instead of contempt: the veriest visionary would deridethe attempt to animate him with a higher sentiment. 

"Peace, " observes a modern sage, "is the dream of the wise, war is thehistory of man. " To indulge in such dreams is but questionable wisdom. Itwas not a "peace-policy" which gave the Portuguese a seaboard extendingfrom Cape Non to Macao. By no peace policy the Osmanlis of a past agepushed their victorious arms from the deserts of Tartary to Aden, toDelhi, to Algiers, and to the gates of Vienna. It was no peace policywhich made the Russians seat themselves upon the shores of the Black, theBaltic, and the Caspian seas: gaining in the space of 150 years, and, despite war, retaining, a territory greater than England and Franceunited. No peace policy enabled the French to absorb region after regionin Northern Africa, till the Mediterranean appears doomed to sink into aGallic lake. The English of a former generation were celebrated forgaining ground in both hemispheres: their broad lands were not won by apeace policy, which, however, in this our day, has on two distinctoccasions well nigh lost for them the "gem of the British Empire"--India. The philanthropist and the political economist may fondly hope, by outcryagainst "territorial aggrandizement, " by advocating a compact frontier, byabandoning colonies, and by cultivating "equilibrium, " to retain our rankamongst the great nations of the world. Never! The facts of history provenothing more conclusively than this: a race either progresses orretrogrades, either increases or diminishes: the children of Time, liketheir sire, cannot stand still. 

The occupation of the port of Berberah has been advised for many reasons. 

In the first place, Berberah is the true key of the Red Sea, the centre ofEast African traffic, and the only safe place for shipping upon thewestern Erythroean shore, from Suez to Guardafui. Backed by lands capableof cultivation, and by hills covered with pine and other valuable trees, enjoying a comparatively temperate climate, with a regular although thinmonsoon, this harbour has been coveted by many a foreign conqueror. Circumstances have thrown it as it were into our arms, and, if we refusethe chance, another and a rival nation will not be so blind. 

Secondly, we are bound to protect the lives of British subjects upon thiscoast. In A. D. 1825 the crew of the "Mary Ann" brig was treacherouslymurdered by the Somal. The consequence of a summary and exemplarypunishment [12] was that in August 1843, when the H. E. I. C. 's war-steamer"Memnon" was stranded at Ras Assayr near Cape Guardafui, no outrage wasattempted by the barbarians, upon whose barren shores our seamen remainedfor months labouring at the wreck. In A. D. 1855 the Somal, havingforgotten the old lesson, renewed their practices of pillaging andmurdering strangers. It is then evident that this people cannot be trustedwithout supervision, and equally certain that vessels are ever liable tobe cast ashore in this part of the Red Sea. But a year ago the Frenchsteam corvette, "Le Caiman, " was lost within sight of Zayla; the BedouinSomal, principally Eesa, assembled a fanatic host, which was, however, dispersed before blood had been drawn, by the exertion of the governor andhis guards. It remains for us, therefore, to provide against suchcontingencies. Were one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's vesselscast by any accident upon this inhospitable shore, in the present state ofaffairs the lives of the passengers, and the cargo, would be placed inimminent peril. 

In advocating the establishment of an armed post at Berberah no stress islaid upon the subject of slavery. To cut off that traffic the possessionof the great export harbour is by no means necessary. Whenever a Britishcruizer shall receive positive and _bona fide_ orders to search nativecraft, and to sell as prizes all that have slaves on board, the trade willreceive a death-blow. 

Certain measures have been taken during the last annual fair to punish theoutrage perpetrated by the Somal at Berberah in A. D. 1855. The writer onhis return to Aden proposed that the several clans implicated in theoffence should at once be expelled from British dominions. Thispreliminary was carried out by the Acting Political Resident at Aden. Moreover, it was judged advisable to blockade the Somali coast, fromSiyaro to Zayla, not concluded, until, in the first place, Lieut. Stroyan's murderer, and the ruffian who attempted to spear Lieut. Speke incold blood, should be given up [13]; and secondly, that due compensationfor all losses should be made by the plunderers. The former condition wasapproved by the Right Honorable the Governor-General of India, who, however, objected, it is said, to the money-demand. [14] At present theH. E. I. C. 's cruizers "Mahi, " and "Elphinstone, " are blockading the harbourof Berberah, the Somal have offered 15, 000 dollars' indemnity, and theypretend, as usual, that the murderer has been slain by his tribe. 

To conclude. The writer has had the satisfaction of receiving from hiscomrades assurances that they are willing to accompany him once more intask of African Exploration. The plans of the Frank are now publicly knownto the Somali. Should the loss of life, however valuable, be an obstacleto prosecuting them, he must fall in the esteem of the races around him. On the contrary, should he, after duly chastising the offenders, carry outthe original plan, he will command the respect of the people, and wipe outthe memory of a temporary reverse. At no distant period the project will, it is hoped, be revived. Nothing is required but permission to renew theattempt--an indulgence which will not be refused by a Government raised byenergy, enterprise, and perseverance from the ranks of merchant society tonational wealth and imperial grandeur. 

14. St. James's Square, 10th February, 1856. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] It occupies the whole of the Eastern Horn, extending from the north ofBab el Mandeb to several degrees south of Cape Guardafui. In the formerdirection it is bounded by the Dankali and the Ittoo Gallas; in the latterby the Sawahil or Negrotic regions; the Red Sea is its eastern limit, andwestward it stretches to within a few miles of Harar. 

[2] In A. D. 1838, Lieut. Carless surveyed the seaboard of the Somalicountry, from Ras Hafun to Burnt Island; unfortunately his labours wereallowed by Sir Charles Malcolm's successor to lie five years in theobscurity of MS. Meanwhile the steam frigate "Memnon, " Capt. Powellcommanding, was lost at Ras Assayr; a Norie's chart, an antiquateddocument, with an error of from fifteen to twenty miles, being the onlymap of reference on board. Thus the Indian Government, by the dilatorinessand prejudices of its Superintendent of Marine, sustained an unjustifiableloss of at least 50, 000_l. _

[3] In A. D. 1836-38, Lieut. Cruttenden published descriptions of travel, which will be alluded to in a subsequent part of this preface. 

[4] This "hasty sketch of the scientific labours of the Indian navy, " isextracted from an able anonymous pamphlet, unpromisingly headed"Grievances and Present Condition of our Indian Officers. "

[5] In A. D. 1848, the late Mr. Joseph Hume called in the House of Commonsfor a return of all Indian surveys carried on during the ten previousyears. The result proved that no less than a score had been suddenly"broken up, " by order of Sir Robert Oliver. 

[6] This plan was successfully adopted by Messrs. Antoine and Arnauldd'Abbadie, when travelling in dangerous parts of Abyssinia and theadjacent countries. 

[7] In A. D. 1660, Vermuyden found gold at Gambia always on naked andbarren hills embedded in a reddish earth. 

[8] The writer has not unfrequently been blamed by the critics of Indianpapers, for venturing into such dangerous lands with an outfit nearly1500_l. _ in value. In the Somali, as in other countries of Eastern Africa, travellers must carry not only the means of purchasing passage, but alsothe very necessaries of life. Money being unknown, such bulky articles ascotton-cloth, tobacco, and beads are necessary to provide meat and milk, and he who would eat bread must load his camels with grain. The Somal ofcourse exaggerate the cost of travelling; every chief, however, may demanda small present, and every pauper, as will be seen in the following pages, expects to be fed. 

[9] It is described at length in Chap. III. 

[10] The author hoped to insert Lieut. Berne's journal, kept at Berberah, and the different places of note in its vicinity; as yet, however, thepaper has not been received. 

[11] Harar has frequently been described by hearsay; the following are theprincipal authorities:--

Rochet (Second Voyage Dans le Pays des Adels, &c. Paris, 1846. ), page 263. 

Sir. W. Cornwallis Harris (Highlands of AEthiopia, vol. I. Ch. 43. Etpassim). 

Cruttenden (Transactions of the Bombay Geological Society A. D. 1848). 

Barker (Report of the probable Position of Harar. Vol. Xii. RoyalGeographical Society). 

M'Queen (Geographical Memoirs of Abyssinia, prefixed to Journals of Rev. Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf). 

Christopher (Journal whilst commanding the H. C. 's brig "Tigris, " on theEast Coast of Africa). 

Of these by far the most correct account is that of Lieut. Cruttenden. 

[12] In A. D. 1825, the Government of Bombay received intelligence that abrig from the Mauritius had been seized, plundered, and broken up nearBerberah, and that part of her crew had been barbarously murdered by theSomali. The "Elphinstone" sloop of war (Capt. Greer commanding) was sentto blockade the coast; when her guns opened fire, the people fled withtheir wives and children, and the spot where a horseman was killed by acannon ball is still shown on the plain near the town. Through theintervention of El Hajj Sharmarkay, the survivors were recovered; theSomal bound themselves to abstain from future attacks upon Englishvessels, and also to refund by annual instalments the full amount ofplundered property. For the purpose of enforcing the latter stipulation itwas resolved that a vessel of war should remain upon the coast until thewhole was liquidated. When attempts at evasion occurred, the traffic wasstopped by sending all craft outside the guard-ship, and forbiddingintercourse with the shore. The "Coote" (Capt. Pepper commanding), the"Palinurus" and the "Tigris, " in turn with the "Elphinstone, " maintainedthe blockade through the trading seasons till 1833. About 6000_l. _ wererecovered, and the people were strongly impressed with the fact that wehad both the will and the means to keep their plundering propensitieswithin bounds. 

[13] The writer advised that these men should be hung upon the spot wherethe outrage was committed, that the bodies should be burned and the ashescast into the sea, lest by any means the murderers might become martyrs. This precaution should invariably be adopted when Moslems assassinateInfidels. 

[14] The reason of the objection is not apparent. A savage people isimperfectly punished by a few deaths: the fine is the only true way toproduce a lasting impression upon their heads and hearts. Moreover, it isthe custom of India and the East generally, and is in reality the onlysafeguard of a traveller's property. 

[Illustration: Map to illustrate LIEUT. BURTON'S Route to HARAR _from aSketch by the late Lieut. W. Stroyan, Indian Navy. _]

[Illustration: BERBERAH]

CONTENTS. 

PREFACE

CHAPTER I. Departure from Aden

CHAP. II. Life in Zayla

CHAP. III. Excursions near Zayla

CHAP. IV. The Somal, their Origin and Peculiarities

CHAP. V. From Zayla to the Hills

CHAP. VI. From the Zayla Hills to the Marar Prairie

CHAP. VII. From the Marar Prairie to Harar

CHAP. VIII. Ten Days at Harar

CHAP. IX. A Ride to Berberah

CHAP. X. Berberah and its Environs

POSTSCRIPT

APPENDICES

LIST OF PLATES. 

Harar, from the Coffe StreamMap of BerberahRoute to HararThe HammalCostume of HararH. H. Ahmed Bin Abibakr, Amir of Harar

[Illustration]

CHAPTER I. 

DEPARTURE FROM ADEN. 

I doubt not there are many who ignore the fact that in Eastern Africa, scarcely three hundred miles distant from Aden, there is a counterpart ofill-famed Timbuctoo in the Far West. The more adventurous Abyssiniantravellers, Salt and Stuart, Krapf and Isenberg, Barker and Rochet, --notto mention divers Roman Catholic Missioners, --attempted Harar, butattempted it in vain. The bigoted ruler and barbarous people threateneddeath to the Infidel who ventured within their walls; some negro Merlinhaving, it is said, read Decline and Fall in the first footsteps of theFrank. [1] Of all foreigners the English were, of course, the most hatedand dreaded; at Harar slavery still holds its head-quarters, and the oldDragon well knows what to expect from the hand of St. George. Thus thevarious travellers who appeared in beaver and black coats became persuadedthat the city was inaccessible, and Europeans ceased to trouble themselvesabout Harar. 

It is, therefore, a point of honor with me, dear L. , to utilise my titleof Haji by entering the city, visiting the ruler, and returning in safety, after breaking the guardian spell. 

The most auspicious day in the Moslem year for beginning a journey is, doubtless, the 6th of the month Safar [2], on which, quoth the Prophet, ElIslam emerged from obscurity. Yet even at Aden we could not availourselves of this lucky time: our delays and difficulties were a fitprelude for a journey amongst those "Blameless Ethiopians, " with whom noless a personage than august Jove can dine and depart. [3]

On Sunday, the 29th October, 1854, our manifold impediments werepronounced complete. Friend S. Threw the slipper of blessing at my back, and about 4 P. M. Embarking from Maala Bunder, we shook out our "muslin, "and sailed down the fiery harbour. Passing the guard-boat, we deliveredour permit; before venturing into the open sea we repeated the Fatihah-prayer in honor of the Shaykh Majid, inventor of the mariners' compass[4], and evening saw us dancing on the bright clear tide, whose "magicwaves, " however, murmured after another fashion the siren song whichcharmed the senses of the old Arabian voyagers. [5]

Suddenly every trace of civilisation fell from my companions as if it hadbeen a garment. At Aden, shaven and beturbaned, Arab fashion, now theythrew off all dress save the loin cloth, and appeared in their darkmorocco. Mohammed filled his mouth with a mixture of coarse Surat tobaccoand ashes, --the latter article intended, like the Anglo-Indian soldier'schili in his arrack, to "make it bite. " Guled uncovered his head, a memberwhich in Africa is certainly made to go bare, and buttered himself with anunguent redolent of sheep's tail; and Ismail, the rais or captain of our"foyst, " [6] the Sahalah, applied himself to puffing his nicotiana out ofa goat's shank-bone. Our crew, consisting of seventy-one men and boys, prepared, as evening fell, a mess of Jowari grain [7] and grease, therecipe of which I spare you, and it was despatched in a style that wouldhave done credit to Kafirs as regards gobbling, bolting, smearing lips, licking fingers, and using ankles as napkins. Then with a light easterlybreeze and the ominous cliffs of Little Aden still in sight, we spread ourmats on deck and prepared to sleep under the moon. [8]

My companions, however, felt, without perhaps comprehending, the jovialityarising from a return to Nature. Every man was forthwith nicknamed, andpitiless was the raillery upon the venerable subjects of long and short, fat and thin. One sang a war-song, another a love-song, a third some songof the sea, whilst the fourth, an Eesa youth, with the villanousexpression of face common to his tribe, gave us a rain measure, such asmen chaunt during wet weather. All these effusions were _naive_ andamusing: none, however, could bear English translation without an amountof omission which would change their nature. Each effort of minstrelsy wasaccompanied by roars of laughter, and led to much manual pleasantry. Allswore that they had never spent, intellectually speaking, a more charming_soiree_, and pitied me for being unable to enter thoroughly into thespirit of the dialogue. Truly it is not only the polished European, as wassaid of a certain travelling notability, that lapses with facility intopristine barbarism. 

I will now introduce you to my companions. The managing man is oneMohammed Mahmud [9], generally called El Hammal or the porter: he is aHavildar or sergeant in the Aden police, and was entertained for me byLieut. Dansey, an officer who unfortunately was not "confirmed" in apolitical appointment at Aden. The Hammal is a bull-necked, round-headedfellow of lymphatic temperament, with a lamp-black skin, regular features, and a pulpy figure, --two rarities amongst his countrymen, who compare himto a Banyan. An orphan in early youth, and becoming, to use his ownphrase, sick of milk, he ran away from his tribe, the Habr Gerhajis, andengaged himself as a coaltrimmer with the slaves on board an Indian war-steamer. After rising in rank to the command of the crew, he becameservant and interpreter to travellers, visited distant lands--Egypt andCalcutta--and finally settled as a Feringhee policeman. He cannot read orwrite, but he has all the knowledge to be acquired by fifteen or twentyyears, hard "knocking about:" he can make a long speech, and, although henever prays, a longer prayer; he is an excellent mimic, and delights hisauditors by imitations and descriptions of Indian ceremony, Egyptiandancing, Arab vehemence, Persian abuse, European vivacity, and Turkishinsolence. With prodigious inventiveness, and a habit of perpetualintrigue, acquired in his travels, he might be called a "knowing" man, butfor the truly Somali weakness of showing in his countenance all thatpasses through his mind. This people can hide nothing: the blank eye, thecontracting brow, the opening nostril and the tremulous lip, betray, despite themselves, their innermost thoughts. 

The second servant, whom I bring before you is Guled, another policeman atAden. He is a youth of good family, belonging to the Ismail Arrah, theroyal clan of the great Habr Gerhajis tribe. His father was a man ofproperty, and his brethren near Berberah, are wealthy Bedouins: yet he ranaway from his native country when seven or eight years old, and became aservant in the house of a butter merchant at Mocha. Thence he went toAden, where he began with private service, and ended his career in thepolice. He is one of those long, live skeletons, common amongst the Somal:his shoulders are parallel with his ears, his ribs are straight as amummy's, his face has not an ounce of flesh upon it, and his featuressuggest the idea of some lank bird: we call him Long Guled, to which hereplies with the Yemen saying "Length is Honor, even in Wood. " He is braveenough, because he rushes into danger without reflection; his greatdefects are weakness of body and nervousness of temperament, leading intimes of peril to the trembling of hands, the dropping of caps, and themismanagement of bullets: besides which, he cannot bear hunger, thirst, orcold. 

The third is one Abdy Abokr, also of the Habr Gerhajis, a personage whom, from, his smattering of learning and his prodigious rascality, we call theMulla "End of Time. " [10] He is a man about forty, very old-looking forhis age, with small, deep-set cunning eyes, placed close together, a hooknose, a thin beard, a bulging brow, scattered teeth, [11] and a shortscant figure, remarkable only for length of back. His gait is stealthy, like a cat's, and he has a villanous grin. This worthy never prays, andcan neither read nor write; but he knows a chapter or two of the Koran, recites audibly a long Ratib or task, morning and evening [12], whence, together with his store of hashed Hadis (tradition), he derives the titleof Widad or hedge-priest. His tongue, primed with the satirical sayings ofAbn Zayd el Helali, and Humayd ibn Mansur [13], is the terror of men uponwhom repartee imposes. His father was a wealthy shipowner in his day; but, cursed with Abdy and another son, the old man has lost all his property, his children have deserted him, and he now depends entirely upon thecharity of the Zayla chief. The "End of Time" has squandered considerablesums in travelling far and wide from Harar to Cutch, he has managedeverywhere to perpetrate some peculiar villany. He is a pleasantcompanion, and piques himself upon that power of quotation which in theEast makes a polite man. If we be disposed to hurry, he insinuates that"Patience is of Heaven, Haste of Hell. " When roughly addressed, heremarks, --

 "There are cures for the hurts of lead and steel, But the wounds of the tongue--they never heal!"

If a grain of rice adhere to our beards, he says, smilingly, "the gazelleis in the garden;" to which we reply "we will hunt her with the five. "[14] Despite these merits, I hesitated to engage him, till assured by thegovernor of Zayla that he was to be looked upon as a son, and, moreover, that he would bear with him one of those state secrets to an influentialchief which in this country are never committed to paper. I found him anadmirable buffoon, skilful in filling pipes and smoking them; _au reste_, an individual of "many words and little work, " infinite intrigue, cowardice, cupidity, and endowed with a truly evil tongue. 

The morning sun rose hot upon us, showing Mayyum and Zubah, the giantstaples of the "Gate under the Pleiades. " [15] Shortly afterwards, we camein sight of the Barr el Ajam (barbarian land), as the Somal call theircountry [16], a low glaring flat of yellow sand, desert and heat-reeking, tenanted by the Eesa, and a meet habitat for savages. Such to us, atleast, appeared the land of Adel. [17] At midday we descried the Ras elBir, --Headland of the Well, --the promontory which terminates the boldTajurrah range, under which lie the sleeping waters of the Maiden's Sea. [18] During the day we rigged out an awning, and sat in the shade smokingand chatting merrily, for the weather was not much hotter than on Englishsummer seas. Some of the crew tried praying; but prostrations are noteasily made on board ship, and El Islam, as Umar shrewdly suspected, wasnot made for a seafaring race. At length the big red sun sank slowlybehind the curtain of sky-blue rock, where lies the not yet "combusted"village of Tajurrah. [19] We lay down to rest with the light of day, andhad the satisfaction of closing our eyes upon a fair though captiousbreeze. 

On the morning of the 31st October, we entered the Zayla Creek, whichgives so much trouble to native craft. We passed, on the right, the lowisland of Masha, belonging to the "City of the Slave Merchant, "--Tajurrah, --and on the left two similar patches of seagirt sand, calledAybat and Saad el Din. These places supply Zayla, in the Kharif or hotseason [20], with thousands of gulls' eggs, --a great luxury. At noon wesighted our destination. Zayla is the normal African port, --a strip ofsulphur-yellow sand, with a deep blue dome above, and a foreground of thedarkest indigo. The buildings, raised by refraction, rose high, andapparently from the bosom of the deep. After hearing the worst accounts ofit, I was pleasantly disappointed by the spectacle of white-washed housesand minarets, peering above a long low line of brown wall, flanked withround towers. 

As we slowly threaded the intricate coral reefs of the port, a bark camescudding up to us; it tacked, and the crew proceeded to give news inroaring tones. Friendship between the Amir of Harar and the governor ofZayla had been broken; the road through the Eesa Somal had been closed bythe murder of Masud, a favourite slave and adopted son of Sharmarkay; allstrangers had been expelled the city for some misconduct by the Hararchief; moreover, small-pox was raging there with such violence that theGalla peasantry would allow neither ingress nor egress. [21] I had thepleasure of reflecting for some time, dear L. , upon the amount ofresponsibility incurred by using the phrase "I will;" and the onlyconsolation that suggested itself was the stale assurance that

 "Things at the worst most surely mend. "

No craft larger than a canoe can ride near Zayla. After bumping once ortwice against the coral reefs, it was considered advisable for our goodship, the Sahalat, to cast anchor. My companions caused me to dress, putme with my pipe and other necessaries into a cock-boat, and, wadingthrough the water, shoved it to shore. Lastly, at Bab el Sahil, theSeaward or Northern Gate, they proceeded to array themselves in thebravery of clean Tobes and long daggers strapped round the waist; each manalso slung his targe to his left arm, and in his right hand grasped lanceand javelin. At the gate we were received by a tall black spearman with a"Ho there! to the governor;" and a crowd of idlers gathered to inspect thestrangers. Marshalled by the warder, we traversed the dusty roads--streetsthey could not be called--of the old Arab town, ran the gauntlet of agaping mob, and finally entering a mat door, found ourselves in thepresence of the governor. 

I had met Sharmarkay at Aden, where he received from the authoritiesstrong injunctions concerning my personal safety: the character of aMoslem merchant, however, requiring us to appear strangers, anintroduction by our master of ceremonies, the Hammal, followed myentrance. Sharmarkay was living in an apartment by no means splendid, preferring an Arish or kind of cow-house, --as the Anglo-Indian Nabobs dothe bungalow

 "with mat half hung, The walls of plaster and the floors of * * * *, "

--to all his substantial double-storied houses. The ground was wet andcomfortless; a part of the reed walls was lined with cots bearingmattresses and silk-covered pillows, a cross between a divan and a couch:the only ornaments were a few weapons, and a necklace of gaudy beadssuspended near the door. I was placed upon the principal seat: on theright were the governor and the Hammal; whilst the lowest portion of theroom was occupied by Mohammed Sharmarkay, the son and heir. The rest ofthe company squatted upon chairs, or rather stools, of peculiarconstruction. Nothing could be duller than this _assemblee_: pipes andcoffee are here unknown; and there is nothing in the East to actsubstitute for them. [22]

The governor of Zayla, El Hajj Sharmarkay bin Ali Salih, is rather aremarkable man. He is sixteenth, according to his own account, in descentfrom Ishak el Hazrami [23], the saintly founder of the great Gerhajis andAwal tribes. His enemies derive him from a less illustrious stock; and thefairness of his complexion favours the report that his grandfather Salihwas an Abyssinian slave. Originally the Nacoda or captain of a nativecraft, he has raised himself, chiefly by British influence, to thechieftainship of his tribe. [24] As early as May, 1825, he received fromCaptain Bagnold, then our resident at Mocha, a testimonial and a reward, for a severe sword wound in the left arm, received whilst defending thelives of English seamen. [25] He afterwards went to Bombay, where he wastreated with consideration; and about fifteen years ago he succeeded theSayyid Mohammed el Barr as governor of Zayla and its dependencies, underthe Ottoman Pasha in Western Arabia. 

The Hajj Sharmarkay in his youth was a man of Valour: he could not read orwrite; but he carried in battle four spears [26], and his sword-cut wasrecognisable. He is now a man about sixty years old, at least six feet twoinches in stature, large-limbed, and raw-boned: his leanness is hidden bylong wide robes. He shaves his head and upper lip Shafei-fashion, and hisbeard is represented by a ragged tuft of red-stained hair on each side ofhis chin. A visit to Aden and a doctor cost him one eye, and the other isnow white with age. His dress is that of an Arab, and he always carrieswith him a broad-bladed, silver-hilted sword. Despite his years, he is astrong, active, and energetic man, ever looking to the "main chance. " Withone foot in the grave, he meditates nothing but the conquest of Harar andBerberah, which, making him master of the seaboard, would soon extend hispower as in days of old even to Abyssinia. [27] To hear his projects, youwould fancy them the offspring of a brain in the prime of youth: in orderto carry them out he would even assist in suppressing the profitableslave-trade. [28]

After half an hour's visit I was led by the Hajj through the streets ofZayla [29], to one of his substantial houses of coralline and mudplastered over with glaring whitewash. The ground floor is a kind ofwarehouse full of bales and boxes, scales and buyers. A flight of steepsteps leads into a long room with shutters to exclude the light, flooredwith tamped earth, full of "evening flyers" [30], and destitute offurniture. Parallel to it are three smaller apartments; and above is aterraced roof, where they who fear not the dew and the land-breeze sleep. [31] I found a room duly prepared; the ground was spread with mats, andcushions against the walls denoted the Divan: for me was placed a Kursi orcot, covered with fine Persian rugs and gaudy silk and satin pillows. TheHajj installed us with ceremony, and insisted, despite my remonstrances, upon occupying the floor whilst I sat on the raised seat. After usheringin supper, he considerately remarked that travelling is fatiguing, andleft us to sleep. 

The well-known sounds of El Islam returned from memory. Again themelodious chant of the Muezzin, --no evening bell can compare with it forsolemnity and beauty, --and in the neighbouring mosque, the loudly intonedAmin and Allaho Akbar, --far superior to any organ, --rang in my ear. Theevening gun of camp was represented by the Nakkarah, or kettle-drum, sounded about seven P. M. At the southern gate; and at ten a seconddrumming warned the paterfamilias that it was time for home, and thieves, and lovers, --that it was the hour for bastinado. Nightfall was ushered inby the song, the dance, and the marriage festival, --here no permission isrequired for "native music in the lines, "--and muffled figures flittedmysteriously through the dark alleys. 

 * * * * *

After a peep through the open window, I fell asleep, feeling once more athome. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] "A tradition exists, " says Lieut. Cruttenden, "amongst the people ofHarar, that the prosperity of their city depends upon the exclusion of alltravellers not of the Moslem faith, and all Christians are speciallyinterdicted. " These freaks of interdiction are common to African rulers, who on occasions of war, famine or pestilence, struck with somesuperstitious fear, close their gates to strangers. 

[2] The 6th of Safar in 1864 corresponds with our 28th October. The Hadisis [Arabic] "when the 6th of Safar went forth, my faith from the cloudcame forth. "

[3] The Abyssinian law of detaining guests, --Pedro Covilhao the firstPortuguese envoy (A. D. 1499) lived and died a prisoner there, --appears tohave been the Christian modification of the old Ethiopic rite ofsacrificing strangers. 

[4] It would be wonderful if Orientals omitted to romance about the originof such an invention as the Dayrah or compass. Shaykh Majid is said tohave been a Syrian saint, to whom Allah gave the power of looking uponearth, as though it were a ball in his hand. Most Moslems agree inassigning this origin to the Dayrah, and the Fatihah in honor of the holyman, is still repeated by the pious mariner. 

Easterns do not "box the compass" after our fashion: with them each pointhas its own name, generally derived from some prominent star on thehorizon. Of these I subjoin a list as in use amongst the Somal, hopingthat it may be useful to Oriental students. The names in hyphens are thosegiven in a paper on the nautical instrument of the Arabs by Jas. Prinseps(Journal of the As. Soc. , December 1836). The learned secretary appearsnot to have heard the legend of Shaykh Majid, for he alludes to the"Majidi Kitab" or Oriental Ephemeris, without any explanation. 

North Jah [Arabic] East Matla [Arabic]N. By E. Farjad [Arabic] E. By S. Jauza [Arabic] (or [Arabic]) E. S. E. Tir [Arabic]N. N. E. Naash [Arabic] S. E. By E. Iklil [Arabic]N. E. By E. Nakab [Arabic] S. E. Akrab [Arabic]N. E. Ayyuk [Arabic] S. E. By S. Himarayn [Arabic]N. E. By E. Waki [Arabic] S. S. E. Suhayl [Arabic]E. N. E. Sumak [Arabic] S. By E. Suntubar [Arabic]E. By N. Surayya [Arabic] (or [Arabic])

The south is called El Kutb ([Arabic]) and the west El Maghib ([Arabic]). The western points are named like the eastern. North-east, for instance isAyyuk el Matlai; north-west, Ayyuk el Maghibi. Finally, the Dayrah Jahi iswhen the magnetic needle points due north. The Dayrah Farjadi (more commonin these regions), is when the bar is fixed under Farjad, to allow forvariation, which at Berberah is about 4° 50' west. 

[5] The curious reader will find in the Herodotus of the Arabs, ElMasudi's "Meadows of gold and mines of gems, " a strange tale of the blindbillows and the singing waves of Berberah and Jofuni (Cape Guardafui, theclassical Aromata). 

[6] "Foyst" and "buss, " are the names applied by old travellers to thehalf-decked vessels of these seas. 

[7] Holcus Sorghum, the common grain of Africa and Arabia: the Somali callit Hirad; the people of Yemen, Taam. 

[8] The Somal being a people of less nervous temperament than the Arabsand Indians, do not fear the moonlight. 

[9] The first name is that of the individual, as the Christian name withus, the second is that of the father; in the Somali country, as in India, they are not connected by the Arab "bin"--son of. 

[10] Abdy is an abbreviation of Abdullah; Abokr, a corruption of Abubekr. The "End of Time" alludes to the prophesied corruption of the Moslempriesthood in the last epoch of the world. 

[11] This peculiarity is not uncommon amongst the Somal; it is consideredby them a sign of warm temperament. 

[12] The Moslem should first recite the Farz prayers, or those ordered inthe Koran; secondly, the Sunnat or practice of the Prophet; and thirdlythe Nafilah or Supererogatory. The Ratib or self-imposed task is the lastof all; our Mulla placed it first, because he could chaunt it upon hismule within hearing of the people. 

[13] Two modern poets and wits well known in Yemen. 

[14] That is to say, "we will remove it with the five fingers. " These areeuphuisms to avoid speaking broadly and openly of that venerable feature, the beard. 

[15] Bab el Mandeb is called as above by Humayd from its astronomicalposition. Jebel Mayyum is in Africa, Jebel Zubah or Muayyin, celebrated asthe last resting-place of a great saint, Shaykh Said, is in Arabia. 

[16] Ajam properly means all nations not Arab. In Egypt and Central Asiait is now confined to Persians. On the west of the Red Sea, it isinvariably used to denote the Somali country: thence Bruce draws the Greekand Latin name of the coast, Azamia, and De Sacy derives the word "Ajan, "which in our maps is applied to the inner regions of the Eastern Horn. Soin Africa, El Sham, which properly means Damascus and Syria, is applied toEl Hejaz. 

[17] Adel, according to M. Krapf, derived its name from the Ad Ali, atribe of the Afar or Danakil nation, erroneously used by Arab synecdochefor the whole race. Mr. Johnston (Travels in Southern Abyssinia, ch. 1. )more correctly derives it from Adule, a city which, as proved by themonument which bears its name, existed in the days of Ptolemy Euergetes(B. C. 247-222), had its own dynasty, and boasted of a conqueror whoovercame the Troglodytes, Sabaeans, Homerites, &c. , and pushed hisconquests as far as the frontier of Egypt. Mr. Johnston, however, incorrectly translates Barr el Ajam "land of fire, " and seems to confoundAvalites and Adulis. 

[18] Bahr el Banatin, the Bay of Tajurrah. 

[19] A certain German missionary, well known in this part of the world, exasperated by the seizure of a few dollars and a claim to the _droitd'aubaine_, advised the authorities of Aden to threaten the "combustion"of Tajurrah. The measure would have been equally unjust and unwise. Atraveller, even a layman, is bound to put up peaceably with such trifles;and to threaten "combustion" without being prepared to carry out thethreat is the readiest way to secure contempt. 

[20] The Kharif in most parts of the Oriental world corresponds with ourautumn. In Eastern Africa it invariably signifies the hot season precedingthe monsoon rains. 

[21] The circumstances of Masud's murder were truly African. The slavecaravans from Abyssinia to Tajurrah were usually escorted by the RerGuleni, a clan of the great Eesa tribe, and they monopolised the profitsof the road. Summoned to share their gains with their kinsmen generally, they refused upon which the other clans rose about August, 1854, and cutoff the road. A large caravan was travelling down in two bodies, each ofnearly 300 slaves; the Eesa attacked the first division, carried off thewives and female slaves, whom they sold for ten dollars a head, andsavagely mutilated upwards of 100 wretched boys. This event caused theTajurrah line to be permanently closed. The Rer Guleni in wrath, at oncemurdered Masud, a peaceful traveller, because Inna Handun, his Abban orprotector, was of the party who had attacked their proteges: they cameupon him suddenly as he was purchasing some article, and stabbed him inthe back, before he could defend himself. 

[22] In Zayla there is not a single coffee-house. The settled Somal carelittle for the Arab beverage, and the Bedouins' reasons for avoiding itare not bad. "If we drink coffee once, " say they, "we shall want it again, and then where are we to get it?" The Abyssinian Christians, probably todistinguish themselves from Moslems, object to coffee as well as totobacco. The Gallas, on the other hand, eat it: the powdered bean is mixedwith butter, and on forays a lump about the size of a billiard-ball ispreferred to a substantial meal. 

[23] The following genealogical table was given to me by MohammedSharmarkay:--

 1. Ishak (ibn Ahmed ibn Abdillah). 2. Gerhajis (his eldest son). 3. Said (the eldest son; Daud being the second). 4. Arrah, (also the eldest; Ili, _i. E. _ Ali, being the second). 5. Musa (the third son: the eldest was Ismail; then, in succession, Ishak, Misa, Mikahil, Gambah, Dandan, &c. ) 6. Ibrahim. 7. Fikih (_i. E. _ Fakih. ) 8. Adan (_i. E. _ Adam. ) 9. Mohammed. 10. Hamid. 11. Jibril (_i. E. _ Jibrail). 12. Ali. 13. Awaz. 14. Salih. 15. Ali. 16. Sharmarkay. 

The last is a peculiarly Somali name, meaning "one who sees no harm. "--Shar-ma-arkay. 

[24] Not the hereditary chieftainship of the Habr Gerhajis, which belongsto a particular clan. 

[25] The following is a copy of the document:--

"This Testimonial, together with an Honorary Dress, is presented by theBritish Resident at Mocha to Nagoda Shurmakey Ally Sumaulley, in token ofesteem and regard for his humane and gallant conduct at the Port ofBurburra, on the coast of Africa, April 10. 1825, in saving the lives ofCaptain William Lingard, chief officer of the Brig Mary Anne, when thatvessel was attacked and plundered by the natives. The said Nagoda istherefore strongly recommended to the notice and good offices of Europeansin general, but particularly so to all English gentlemen visiting theseseas. "

[26] Two spears being the usual number: the difficulty of three or fourwould mainly consist in their management during action. 

[27] In July, 1855, the Hajj Sharmarkay was deposed by the Turkish Pashaof Hodaydah, ostensibly for failing to keep some road open, or, accordingto others, for assisting to plunder a caravan belonging to the Dankalitribe. It was reported that he had been made a prisoner, and the PoliticalResident at Aden saw the propriety of politely asking the Turkishauthorities to "be easy" upon the old man. In consequence of thisrepresentation, he was afterwards allowed, on paying a fine of 3000dollars, to retire to Aden. 

I deeply regret that the Hajj should have lost his government. He has everclung to the English party, even in sore temptation. A few years ago, thelate M. Rochet (soi-disant d'Hericourt), French agent at Jeddah, payingtreble its value, bought from Mohammed Sharmarkay, in the absence of theHajj, a large stone house, in order to secure a footing at Zayla. The oldman broke off the bargain on his return, knowing how easily an Agencybecomes a Fort, and preferring a considerable loss to the presence ofdangerous friends. 

[28] During my residence at Zayla few slaves were imported, owing to themain road having been closed. In former years the market was abundantlystocked; the numbers annually shipped to Mocha, Hodaydah, Jeddah, andBerberah, varied from 600 to 1000. The Hajj received as duty one gold"Kirsh, " or about three fourths of a dollar, per head. 

[29] Zayla, called Audal or Auzal by the Somal, is a town about the sizeof Suez, built for 3000 or 4000 inhabitants, and containing a dozen largewhitewashed stone houses, and upwards of 200 Arish or thatched huts, eachsurrounded by a fence of wattle and matting. The situation is a low andlevel spit of sand, which high tides make almost an island. There is noHarbour: a vessel of 250 tons cannot approach within a mile of thelanding-place; the open roadstead is exposed to the terrible north wind, and when gales blow from the west and south, it is almost unapproachable. Every ebb leaves a sandy flat, extending half a mile seaward from thetown; the reefy anchorage is difficult of entrance after sunset, and thecoralline bottom renders wading painful. 

The shape of this once celebrated town is a tolerably regularparallelogram, of which the long sides run from east to west. The walls, without guns or embrasures, are built, like the houses, of corallinerubble and mud, in places dilapidated. There are five gates. The Bab elSahil and the Bab el Jadd (a new postern) open upon the sea from thenorthern wall. At the Ashurbara, in the southern part of the enceinte, theBedouins encamp, and above it the governor holds his Durbar. The Bab Abdel Kadir derives its name from a saint buried outside and eastward of thecity, and the Bab el Saghir is pierced in the western wall. 

The public edifices are six mosques, including the Jami, or cathedral, forFriday prayer: these buildings have queer little crenelles on whitewashedwalls, and a kind of elevated summer-house to represent the minaret. Nearone of them are remains of a circular Turkish Munar, manifestly of modernconstruction. There is no Mahkamah or Kazi's court; that dignitarytransacts business at his own house, and the Festival prayers are recitednear the Saint's Tomb outside the eastern gate. The northeast angle of thetown is occupied by a large graveyard with the usual deleteriousconsequences. 

The climate of Zayla is cooler than that of Aden, and, the site being openall around, it is not so unhealthy. Much spare room is enclosed by thetown walls: evaporation and Nature's scavengers act succedanea forsewerage. 

Zayla commands the adjacent harbour of Tajurrah, and is by position thenorthern port of Aussa (the ancient capital of Adel), of Harar, and ofsouthern Abyssinia: the feuds of the rulers have, however, transferred themain trade to Berberah. It sends caravans northwards to the Dankali, andsouth-westwards, through the Eesa and Gudabirsi tribes as far as Efat andGurague. It is visited by Cafilas from Abyssinia, and the different racesof Bedouins, extending from the hills to the seaboard. The exports arevaluable--slaves, ivory, hides, honey, antelope horns, clarified butter, and gums: the coast abounds in sponge, coral, and small pearls, which Arabdivers collect in the fair season. In the harbour I found about twentynative craft, large and small: of these, ten belonged to the governor. They trade with Berberah, Arabia, and Western India, and are navigated by"Rajput" or Hindu pilots. 

Provisions at Zayla are cheap; a family of six persons live well for about30_l. _ per annum. The general food is mutton: a large sheep costs onedollar, a small one half the price; camels' meat, beef, and in winter kid, abound. Fish is rare, and fowls are not commonly eaten. Holcus, when dear, sells at forty pounds per dollar, at seventy pounds when cheap. It isusually levigated with slab and roller, and made into sour cakes. Some, however, prefer the Arab form "balilah, " boiled and mixed with ghee. Wheatand rice are imported: the price varies from forty to sixty pounds theRiyal or dollar. Of the former grain the people make a sweet cake calledSabaya, resembling the Fatirah of Egypt: a favourite dish also is"harisah"--flesh, rice flour, and boiled wheat, all finely pounded andmixed together. Milk is not procurable during the hot weather; after rainevery house is full of it; the Bedouins bring it in skins and sell it fora nominal sum. 

Besides a large floating population, Zayla contains about 1500 souls. Theyare comparatively a fine race of people, and suffer from little but feverand an occasional ophthalmia. Their greatest hardship is the want of thepure element: the Hissi or well, is about four miles distant from thetown, and all the pits within the walls supply brackish or bitter water, fit only for external use. This is probably the reason why vegetables areunknown, and why a horse, a mule, or even a dog, is not to be found in theplace. 

[30] "Fid-mer, " or the evening flyer, is the Somali name for a bat. Theselittle animals are not disturbed in houses, because they keep off fliesand mosquitoes, the plagues of the Somali country. Flies abound in thevery jungles wherever cows have been, and settle in swarms upon thetraveller. Before the monsoon their bite is painful, especially that ofthe small green species; and there is a red variety called "Diksi as, "whose venom, according to the people, causes them to vomit. The latterabounds in Gulays and the hill ranges of the Berberah country: it isinnocuous during the cold season. The mosquito bites bring on, accordingto the same authority, deadly fevers: the superstition probably arisesfrom the fact that mosquitoes and fevers become formidable about the sametime. 

[31] Such a building at Zayla would cost at most 500 dollars. At Aden, 2000 rupees, or nearly double the sum, would be paid for a matted shed, which excludes neither sun, nor wind, nor rain. 

CHAP. II. 

LIFE IN ZAYLA. 

I will not weary you, dear L. , with descriptions of twenty-six quiet, similar, uninteresting days, --days of sleep, and pipes, and coffee, --spentat Zayla, whilst a route was traced out, guides were propitiated, camelswere bought, mules sent for, and all the wearisome preliminaries ofAfrican travel were gone through. But a _journee_ in the Somali countrymay be a novelty to you: its events shall be succinctly depicted. 

With earliest dawn we arise, thankful to escape from mosquitoes and closeair. We repair to the terrace where devotions are supposed to beperformed, and busy ourselves in watching our neighbours. Two inparticular engage my attention: sisters by different mothers. The daughterof an Indian woman is a young person of fast propensities, --her chocolate-coloured skin, long hair, and parrot-like profile [1] are much admired bythe _elegants_ of Zayla; and she coquettes by combing, dancing, singing, and slapping the slave-girls, whenever an adorer may be looking. We sober-minded men, seeing her, quote the well-known lines--

 "Without justice a king is a cloud without rain; Without goodness a sage is a field without fruit; Without manners a youth is a bridleless horse; Without lore an old man is a waterless wady; Without modesty woman is bread without salt. "

The other is a matron of Abyssinian descent, as her skin, scarcely darkerthan a gipsy's, her long and bright blue fillet, and her gaudily fringeddress, denote. She tattoos her face [2]: a livid line extends from herfront hair to the tip of her nose; between her eyebrows is an ornamentresembling a _fleur-de-lis_, and various beauty-spots adorn the corners ofher mouth and the flats of her countenance. She passes her daysuperintending the slave-girls, and weaving mats [3], the worsted work ofthis part of the world. We soon made acquaintance, as far as an exchangeof salams. I regret, however, to say that there was some scandal about mycharming neighbour; and that more than once she was detected makingsignals to distant persons with her hands. [4]

At 6 A. M. We descend to breakfast, which usually consists of sour graincakes and roast mutton--at this hour a fine trial of health and cleanlyliving. A napkin is passed under my chin, as if I were a small child, anda sound scolding is administered when appetite appears deficient. Visitorsare always asked to join us: we squat on the uncarpeted floor, round acircular stool, eat hard, and never stop to drink. The appetite of Africaastonishes us; we dispose of six ounces here for every one in Arabia, --probably the effect of sweet water, after the briny produce of the "Eye ofYemen. " We conclude this early breakfast with coffee and pipes, andgenerally return, after it, to the work of sleep. 

Then, provided with some sanctified Arabic book, I prepare for thereception of visitors. They come in by dozens, --no man having apparentlyany business to occupy him, --doff their slippers at the door, enterwrapped up in their Tobes or togas [5], and deposit their spears, point-upwards, in the corner; those who have swords--the mark of respectabilityin Eastern Africa--place them at their feet. They shake the full hand (Iwas reproved for offering the fingers only); and when politely disposed, the inferior wraps his fist in the hem of his garment. They have nothingcorresponding with the European idea of manners: they degrade all ceremonyby the epithet Shughl el banat, or "girls' work, " and pique themselvesupon downrightness of manner, --a favourite mask, by the by, for savagecunning to assume. But they are equally free from affectation, shyness, and vulgarity; and, after all, no manners are preferable to bad manners. 

Sometimes we are visited at this hour by Mohammed Sharmarkay, eldest sonof the old governor. He is in age about thirty, a fine tall figure, slender but well knit, beardless and of light complexion, with large eyes, and a length of neck which a lady might covet. His only detracting featureis a slight projection of the oral region, that unmistakable proof ofAfrican blood. His movements have the grace of strength and suppleness: heis a good jumper, runs well, throws the spear admirably, and is atolerable shot. Having received a liberal education at Mocha, he is held alearned man by his fellow-countrymen. Like his father he despisespresents, looking higher; with some trouble I persuaded him to accept acommon map of Asia, and a revolver. His chief interest was concentrated inbooks: he borrowed my Abu Kasim to copy [6], and was never tired oftalking about the religious sciences: he had weakened his eyes by hardreading, and a couple of blisters were sufficient to win his gratitude. Mohammed is now the eldest son [7]; he appears determined to keep up thefamily name, having already married ten wives: the issue, however, twoinfant sons, were murdered by the Eesa Bedouins. Whenever he meets hisfather in the morning, he kisses his hand, and receives a salute upon theforehead. He aspires to the government of Zayla, and looks forward morereasonably than the Hajj to the day when the possession of Berberah willpour gold into his coffers. He shows none of his father's "softness:" headvocates the bastinado, and, to keep his people at a distance, he hasmarried an Arab wife, who allows no adult to enter the doors. The Somal, Spaniard-like, remark, "He is one of ourselves, though a little richer;"but when times change and luck returns, they are not unlikely to findthemselves mistaken. 

Amongst other visitors, we have the Amir el Bahr, or Port Captain, and theNakib el Askar (_Commandant de place_), Mohammed Umar el Hamumi. This isone of those Hazramaut adventurers so common in all the countriesbordering upon Arabia: they are the Swiss of the East, a people equallybrave and hardy, frugal and faithful, as long as pay is regular. Feared bythe soft Indians and Africans for their hardness and determination, thecommon proverb concerning them is, "If you meet a viper and a Hazrami, spare the viper. " Natives of a poor and rugged region, they wander far andwide, preferring every country to their own; and it is generally said thatthe sun rises not upon a land that does not contain a man from Hazramaut. [8] This commander of an army of forty men [9] often read out to us fromthe Kitab el Anwar (the Book of Lights) the tale of Abu Jahl, that Judasof El Islam made ridiculous. Sometimes comes the Sayyid Mohammed el Barr, a stout personage, formerly governor of Zayla, and still highly respectedby the people on acount of his pure pedigree. With him is the Fakih Adan, a savan of ignoble origin. [10] When they appear the conversation becomesintensely intellectual; sometimes we dispute religion, sometimes politics, at others history and other humanities. Yet it is not easy to talk historywith a people who confound Miriam and Mary, or politics to those whoseonly idea of a king is a robber on a large scale, or religion to men whomeasure excellence by forbidden meats, or geography to those who representthe earth in this guise. Yet, though few of our ideas are in common, thereare many words; the verbosity of these anti-Laconic oriental dialects [11]renders at least half the subject intelligible to the most oppositethinkers. When the society is wholly Somal, I write Arabic, copy someuseful book, or extract from it, as Bentley advised, what is fit to quote. When Arabs are present, I usually read out a tale from "The Thousand andOne Nights, " that wonderful work, so often translated, so much turnedover, and so little understood at home. The most familiar of books inEngland, next to the Bible, it is one of the least known, the reason beingthat about one fifth is utterly unfit for translation; and the mostsanguine orientalist would not dare to render literally more than threequarters of the remainder. Consequently, the reader loses the contrast, --the very essence of the book, --between its brilliancy and dulness, itsmoral putrefaction, and such pearls as

 "Cast the seed of good works on the least fit soil. Good is never wasted, however it may be laid out. "

And in a page or two after such divine sentiment, the ladies of Bagdad sitin the porter's lap, and indulge in a facetiousness which would havekilled Pietro Aretino before his time. 

[Illustration]

Often I am visited by the Topchi-Bashi, or master of the ordnance, --half adozen honeycombed guns, --a wild fellow, Bashi Buzuk in the Hejaz andcommandant of artillery at Zayla. He shaves my head on Fridays, and onother days tells me wild stories about his service in the Holy Land; howKurdi Usman slew his son-in-law, Ibn Rumi, and how Turkcheh Bilmez wouldhave murdered Mohammed Ali in his bed. [12] Sometimes the room is filledwith Arabs, Sayyids, merchants, and others settled in the place: I sawnothing amongst them to justify the oft-quoted saw, "Koraysh pride andZayla's boastfulness. " More generally the assembly is one of the Somal, who talk in their own tongue, laugh, yell, stretch their legs, and lielike cattle upon the floor, smoking the common Hukkah, which stands in thecentre, industriously cleaning their teeth with sticks, and eating snufflike Swedes. Meanwhile, I occupy the Kursi or couch, sometimes mutteringfrom a book to excite respect, or reading aloud for general information, or telling fortunes by palmistry, or drawing out a horoscope. 

It argues "peculiarity, " I own, to enjoy such a life. In the first place, there is no woman's society: El Islam seems purposely to have loosened theties between the sexes in order to strengthen the bonds which connect manand man. [13] Secondly, your house is by no means your castle. You mustopen your doors to your friend at all hours; if when inside it suit him tosing, sing he will; and until you learn solitude in a crowd, or the art ofconcentration, you are apt to become _ennuye_ and irritable. You mustabandon your prejudices, and for a time cast off all Europeanprepossessions in favour of Indian politeness, Persian polish, Arabcourtesy, or Turkish dignity. 

 "They are as free as Nature e'er made man;"

and he who objects to having his head shaved in public, to seeing hisfriends combing their locks in his sitting-room, to having his propertyunceremoniously handled, or to being addressed familiarly by a perfectstranger, had better avoid Somaliland. 

You will doubtless, dear L. , convict me, by my own sentiments, of being an"amateur barbarian. " You must, however, remember that I visited Africafresh from Aden, with its dull routine of meaningless parades and tiresomecourts martial, where society is broken by ridiculous distinctions ofstaff-men and regimental-men, Madras-men and Bombay-men, "European"officers, and "black" officers; where literature is confined to acquiringthe art of explaining yourself in the jargons of half-naked savages; wherethe business of life is comprised in ignoble official squabbles, dislikes, disapprobations, and "references to superior authority;" where socialintercourse is crushed by "gup, " gossip, and the scandal of small colonialcircles; where--pleasant predicament for those who really love women'ssociety!--it is scarcely possible to address fair dame, preserving at thesame time her reputation and your own, and if seen with her twice, all"camp" will swear it is an "affair;" where, briefly, the march of mind isat a dead halt, and the march of matter is in double quick time to thehospital or sick-quarters. Then the fatal struggle for Name, and thepainful necessity of doing the most with the smallest materials for areputation! In Europe there are a thousand grades of celebrity, fromstatesmanship to taxidermy; all, therefore, co-exist without rivalry. Whereas, in these small colonies, there is but one fame, and as that leadsdirectly to rupees and rank, no man willingly accords it to his neighbour. And, finally, such semi-civilised life abounds in a weary ceremoniousness. It is highly improper to smoke outside your bungalow. You shall pay yourvisits at 11 A. M. , when the glass stands at 120°. You shall be generallyshunned if you omit your waistcoat, no matter what the weather be. And ifyou venture to object to these Median laws, --as I am now doing, --youelicit a chorus of disapproval, and acquire some evil name. 

About 11 A. M. , when the fresh water arrives from the Hissi or wells, theHajj sends us dinner, mutton stews, of exceeding greasiness, boiled rice, maize cakes, sometimes fish, and generally curds or milk. We all sit rounda primitive form of the Round Table, and I doubt that King Arthur'sknights ever proved doughtier trenchermen than do my companions. We thenrise to pipes and coffee, after which, excluding visitors, my attendantsapply themselves to a siesta, I to my journal and studies. 

At 2 P. M. There is a loud clamour at the door: if it be not opened intime, we are asked if we have a Nazarene inside. Enters a crowd ofvisitors, anxious to pass the afternoon. We proceed with a copy of theforenoon till the sun declines, when it is time to escape the flies, torepair to the terrace for fresh air, or to dress for a walk. Generally ourdirection is through the town eastwards, to a plain of dilapidated gravesand salt sand, peopled only by land-crabs. At the extremity near the seais a little mosque of wattle-work: we sit there under the shade, and playa rude form of draughts, called Shantarah, or at Shahh, a modification ofthe former. [14] More often, eschewing these effeminacies, we shoot at amark, throw the javelin, leap, or engage in some gymnastic exercise. Thefavourite Somali weapons are the spear, dagger, and war-club; the bow andpoisoned arrows are peculiar to the servile class, who know

 "the dreadful art To taint with deadly drugs the barbed dart;"

and the people despise, at the same time that they fear firearms, declaring them to be cowardly weapons [15] with which the poltroon canslay the bravest. 

The Somali spear is a form of the Cape Assegai. A long, thin, pliant andknotty shaft of the Dibi, Diktab, and Makari trees, is dried, polished, and greased with rancid butter: it is generally of a dull yellow colour, and sometimes bound, as in Arabia, with brass wire for ornament. Care isapplied to make the rod straight, or the missile flies crooked: it isgarnished with an iron button at the head, and a long thin tapering headof coarse bad iron [16], made at Berberah and other places by the Tomal. The length of the shaft may be four feet eight inches; the blade variesfrom twenty to twenty-six inches, and the whole weapon is about seven feetlong. Some polish the entire spear-head, others only its socket or ferule;commonly, however, it is all blackened by heating it to redness, andrubbing it with cow's horn. In the towns, one of these weapons is carried;on a journey and in battle two, as amongst the Tibboos, --a small javelinfor throwing and a large spear reserved for the thrust. Some warriorsespecially amongst the Eesa, prefer a coarse heavy lance, which neverleaves the hand. The Somali spear is held in various ways: generally thethumb and forefinger grasp the third nearest to the head, and the shaftresting upon the palm is made to quiver. In action, the javelin is rarelythrown at a greater distance than six or seven feet, and the heavierweapon is used for "jobbing. " Stripped to his waist, the thrower runsforward with all the action of a Kafir, whilst the attacked bounds aboutand crouches to receive it upon the round targe, which it cannot pierce. He then returns the compliment, at the same time endeavouring to break theweapon thrown at him by jumping and stamping upon it. The harmlessmissiles being exhausted, both combatants draw their daggers, grapple withthe left hand, and with the right dig hard and swift at each other's necksand shoulders. When matters come to this point, the duel is soon decided, and the victor, howling his slogan, pushes away from his front the dyingenemy, and rushes off to find another opponent. A puerile weapon duringthe day, when a steady man can easily avoid it, the spear is terrible innight attacks or in the "bush, " whence it can be hurled unseen. Forpractice, we plant a pair of slippers upright in the ground, at thedistance of twelve yards, and a skilful spearman hits the mark once inevery three throws. 

The Somali dagger is an iron blade about eighteen inches long by two inbreadth, pointed and sharp at both edges. The handle is of buffalo orother horn, with a double scoop to fit the grasp; and at the hilt is aconical ornament of zinc. It is worn strapped round the waist by a thongsewed to the sheath, and long enough to encircle the body twice: the pointis to the right, and the handle projects on the left. When in town, theSomal wear their daggers under the Tobe: in battle, the strap is girt overthe cloth to prevent the latter being lost. They always stab from above:this is as it should be, a thrust with a short weapon "underhand" may bestopped, if the adversary have strength enough to hold the stabber'sforearm. The thrust is parried with the shield, and a wound is rarelymortal except in the back: from the great length of the blade, the leastmovement of the man attacked causes it to fall upon the shoulder-blade. 

The "Budd, " or Somali club, resembles the Kafir "Tonga. " It is a knobstickabout a cubit long, made of some hard wood: the head is rounded on theinside, and the outside is cut to an edge. In quarrels, it is considered aharmless weapon, and is often thrown at the opponent and wielded viciouslyenough where the spear point would carefully be directed at the buckler. The Gashan or shield is a round targe about eighteen inches in diameter;some of the Bedouins make it much larger. Rhinoceros' skin being rare, theusual material is common bull's hide, or, preferably, that of the Oryx, called by the Arabs Waal, and by the Somal, Baid. These shields areprettily cut, and are always protected when new with a covering ofcanvass. The boss in the centre easily turns a spear, and the strongestthrow has very little effect even upon the thinnest portion. When notused, the Gashan is slung upon the left forearm: during battle, thehandle, which is in the middle, is grasped by the left hand, and held outat a distance from the body. 

We are sometimes joined in our exercises by the Arab mercenaries, who arefar more skilful than the Somal. The latter are unacquainted with thesword, and cannot defend themselves against it with the targe; they knowlittle of dagger practice, and were beaten at their own weapon, thejavelin, by the children of Bir Hamid. Though unable to jump for thehonour of the turban, I soon acquired the reputation of being thestrongest man in Zayla: this is perhaps the easiest way of winning respectfrom a barbarous people, who honour body, and degrade mind to merecunning. 

When tired of exercise we proceed round the walls to the Ashurbara orSouthern Gate. Here boys play at "hockey" with sticks and stonesenergetically as in England: they are fine manly specimens of the race, but noisy and impudent, like all young savages. At two years of age theyhold out the right hand for sweetmeats, and if refused become insolent. The citizens amuse themselves with the ball [17], at which they playroughly as Scotch linkers: they are divided into two parties, bachelorsand married men; accidents often occur, and no player wears any but thescantiest clothing, otherwise he would retire from the conflict in rags. The victors sing and dance about the town for hours, brandishing theirspears, shouting their slogans, boasting of ideal victories, --theAbyssinian Donfatu, or war-vaunt, --and advancing in death-triumph withfrantic gestures: a battle won would be celebrated with less circumstancein Europe. This is the effect of no occupation--the _primum mobile_ of theIndian prince's kite-flying and all the puerilities of the pompous East. 

We usually find an encampment of Bedouins outside the gate. Their tentsare worse than any gipsy's, low, smoky, and of the rudest construction. These people are a spectacle of savageness. Their huge heads of shockhair, dyed red and dripping with butter, are garnished with a Firin, orlong three-pronged comb, a stick, which acts as scratcher when the ownerdoes not wish to grease his fingers, and sometimes with the ominousostrich feather, showing that the wearer has "killed his man:" a soiledand ragged cotton cloth covers their shoulders, and a similar article iswrapped round their loins. [18] All wear coarse sandals, and appear in thebravery of targe, spear, and dagger. Some of the women would be pretty didthey not resemble the men in their scowling, Satanic expression ofcountenance: they are decidedly _en deshabille, _ but a black skin alwaysappears a garb. The cantonment is surrounded by asses, camels, and a troopof naked Flibertigibbets, who dance and jump in astonishment whenever theysee me: "The white man! the white man!" they shriek; "run away, run away, or we shall be eaten!" [19] On one occasion, however, my _amour propre_was decidedly flattered by the attentions of a small black girl, apparently four or five years old, who followed me through the streetsejaculating "Wa Wanaksan!"--"0 fine!" The Bedouins, despite their fiercescowls, appear good-natured; the women flock out of the huts to stare andlaugh, the men to look and wonder. I happened once to remark, "Lo, we comeforth to look at them and they look at us; we gaze at their complexion andthey gaze at ours!" A Bedouin who understood Arabic translated this speechto the others, and it excited great merriment. In the mining counties ofcivilised England, where the "genial brickbat" is thrown at the passingstranger, or in enlightened Scotland, where hair a few inches too long ora pair of mustachios justifies "mobbing, " it would have been impossiblefor me to have mingled as I did with these wild people. 

We must return before sunset, when the gates are locked and the keys arecarried to the Hajj, a vain precaution, when a donkey could clear half adozen places in the town wall. The call to evening prayer sounds as weenter: none of my companions pray [20], but all when asked reply in thephrase which an Englishman hates, "Inshallah Bukra"--"if Allah please, to-morrow!"--and they have the decency not to appear in public at the hoursof devotion. The Somal, like most Africans, are of a somewhat irreverentturn of mind. [21] When reproached with gambling, and asked why theypersist in the forbidden pleasure, they simply answer "Because we like. "One night, encamped amongst the Eesa, I was disturbed by a female voiceindulging in the loudest lamentations: an elderly lady, it appears, wassuffering from tooth-ache, and the refrain of her groans was, "O Allah, may thy teeth ache like mine! O Allah, may thy gums be sore as mine are!"A well-known and characteristic tale is told of the Gerad Hirsi, now chiefof the Berteri tribe. Once meeting a party of unarmed pilgrims, he askedthem why they had left their weapons at home: they replied in the usualphrase, "Nahnu mutawakkilin"--"we are trusters (in Allah). " That evening, having feasted them hospitably, the chief returned hurriedly to the hut, declaring that his soothsayer ordered him at once to sacrifice a pilgrim, and begging the horror-struck auditors to choose the victim. They castlots and gave over one of their number: the Gerad placed him in anotherhut, dyed his dagger with sheep's blood, and returned to say that he musthave a second life. The unhappy pilgrims rose _en masse_, and fled sowildly that the chief, with all the cavalry of the desert, founddifficulty in recovering them. He dismissed them with liberal presents, and not a few jibes about their trustfulness. The wilder Bedouins willinquire where Allah is to be found: when asked the object of the question, they reply, "If the Eesa could but catch him they would spear him upon thespot, --who but he lays waste their homes and kills their cattle andwives?" Yet, conjoined to this truly savage incapability of conceiving theidea of a Supreme Being, they believe in the most ridiculousexaggerations: many will not affront a common pilgrim, for fear of beingkilled by a glance or a word. 

Our supper, also provided by the hospitable Hajj, is the counterpart ofthe midday dinner. After it we repair to the roof, to enjoy the prospectof the far Tajurrah hills and the white moonbeams sleeping upon the nearersea. The evening star hangs like a diamond upon the still horizon: aroundthe moon a pink zone of light mist, shading off into turquoise blue, and adelicate green like chrysopraz, invests the heavens with a peculiar charm. The scene is truly suggestive: behind us, purpling in the night-air andsilvered by the radiance from above, lie the wolds and mountains tenantedby the fiercest of savages; their shadowy mysterious forms exciting vaguealarms in the traveller's breast. Sweet as the harp of David, the night-breeze and the music of the water come up from the sea; but the ripple andthe rustling sound alternate with the hyena's laugh, the jackal's cry, andthe wild dog's lengthened howl. 

Or, the weather becoming cold, we remain below, and Mohammed Umar returnsto read out more "Book of Lights, " or some pathetic ode. I will quote infree translation the following production of the celebrated poet Abd elRahman el Burai, as a perfect specimen of melancholy Arab imagery:

 "No exile is the banished to the latter end of earth, The exile is the banished to the coffin and the tomb

 "He hath claims on the dwellers in the places of their birth Who wandereth the world, for he lacketh him a home. 

 "Then, blamer, blame me not, were my heart within thy breast, The sigh would take the place of thy laughter and thy scorn. 

 "Let me weep for the sin that debars my soul of rest, The tear may yet avail, --all in vain I may not mourn! [22]

 "Woe! woe to thee, Flesh!--with a purer spirit now The death-day were a hope, and the judgment-hour a joy!

 "One morn I woke in pain, with a pallor on my brow, As though the dreaded Angel were descending to destroy:

 "They brought to me a leech, saying, 'Heal him lest he die!' On that day, by Allah, were his drugs a poor deceit!

 "They stripped me and bathed me, and closed the glazing eye, And dispersed unto prayers, and to haggle for my sheet. 

 "The prayers without a bow [23] they prayed over me that day, Brought nigh to me the bier, and disposed me within. 

 "Four bare upon their shoulders this tenement of clay, Friend and kinsmen in procession bore the dust of friend and kin. 

 "They threw upon me mould of the tomb and went their way-- A guest, 'twould seem, had flitted from the dwellings of the tribe!

 "My gold and my treasures each a share they bore away, Without thanks, without praise, with a jest and with a jibe. 

 "My gold and my treasures each his share they bore away, On me they left the weight!--with me they left the sin!

 "That night within the grave without hoard or child I lay, No spouse, no friend were there, no comrade and no kin. 

 "The wife of my youth, soon another husband found-- A stranger sat at home on the hearthstone of my sire. 

 "My son became a slave, though not purchased nor bound, The hireling of a stranger, who begrudged him his hire. 

 "Such, alas, is human life! such the horror of his death! Man grows like a grass, like a god he sees no end. 

 "Be wise, then, ere too late, brother! praise with every breath The hand that can chastise, the arm that can defend:

 "And bless thou the Prophet, the averter of our ills, While the lightning flasheth bright o'er the ocean and the hills. "

At this hour my companions become imaginative and superstitious. OneSalimayn, a black slave from the Sawahil [24], now secretary to the Hajj, reads our fortunes in the rosary. The "fal" [25], as it is called, acts aprominent part in Somali life. Some men are celebrated for accuracy ofprediction; and in times of danger, when the human mind is ever open tothe "fooleries of faith, " perpetual reference is made to their art. Theworldly wise Salimayn, I observed, never sent away a questioner with anill-omened reply, but he also regularly insisted upon the efficacy ofsacrifice and almsgiving, which, as they would assuredly be neglected, afforded him an excuse in case of accident. Then we had a recital of thetales common to Africa, and perhaps to all the world. In modern France, asin ancient Italy, "versipelles" become wolves and hide themselves in thewoods: in Persia they change themselves into bears, and in Bornou and Shoaassume the shapes of lions, hyenas, and leopards. [26] The origin of thismetamorphic superstition is easily traceable, like man's fetisism ordemonology, to his fears: a Bedouin, for instance, becomes dreadful by thereputation of sorcery: bears and hyenas are equally terrible; and the twoobjects of horror are easily connected. Curious to say, individuals havingthis power were pointed out to me, and people pretended to discover it intheir countenances: at Zayla I was shown a Bedouin, by name Farih Badaun, who notably became a hyena at times, for the purpose of tasting humanblood. [27] About forty years ago, three brothers, Kayna, Fardayna, andSollan, were killed on Gulays near Berberah for the crime ofmetamorphosis. The charge is usually substantiated either by the bestialtail remaining appended to a part of the human shape which the owner hasforgotten to rub against the magic tree, or by some peculiar wound whichthe beast received and the man retained. Kindred to this superstition isthe belief that many of the Bedouins have learned the languages of birdsand beasts. Another widely diffused fancy is that of the Aksar [28], whichin this pastoral land becomes a kind of wood: wonderful tales are told ofbattered milk-pails which, by means of some peg accidentally cut in thejungle, have been found full of silver, or have acquired the qualities ofcornucopiae. It is supposed that a red heifer always breaks her fast uponthe wonderful plant, consequently much time and trouble have been expendedby the Somal in watching the morning proceedings of red heifers. At othertimes we hear fearful tales of old women who, like the Jigar Khwar ofPersia, feed upon man's liver: they are fond of destroying young children;even adults are not ashamed of defending themselves with talismans. Inthis country the crone is called Bidaa or Kumayyo, words signifying awitch: the worst is she that destroys her own progeny. No wound is visiblein this vampyre's victim: generally he names his witch, and his friendsbeat her to death unless she heal him: many are thus martyred; and inSomali land scant notice is taken of such a peccadillo as murdering an oldwoman. The sex indeed has by no means a good name: here, as elsewhere, those who degrade it are the first to abuse it for degradation. At Zaylaalmost all quarrels are connected with women; the old bewitch in one way, the young in another, and both are equally maligned. "Wit in a woman, "exclaims one man, "is a habit of running away in a dromedary. " "Allah, "declares another, "made woman of a crooked bone; he who would straightenher, breaketh her. " Perhaps, however, by these generalisms of abuse thesex gains: they prevent personal and individual details; and no society ofFrench gentlemen avoids mentioning in public the name of a woman morescrupulously than do the misogynist Moslems. 

After a conversazione of two hours my visitors depart, and we lose notime--for we must rise at cockcrow--in spreading our mats round the commonroom. You would admire the Somali pillow [29], a dwarf pedestal of carvedwood, with a curve upon which the greasy poll and its elaborate _frisure_repose. Like the Abyssinian article, it resembles the head-rest of ancientEgypt in all points, except that it is not worked with Typhons and otherhorrors to drive away dreadful dreams. Sometimes the sound of thekettledrum, the song, and the clapping of hands, summon us at a later hourthan usual to a dance. The performance is complicated, and, as usual withthe trivialities easily learned in early youth, it is uncommonly difficultto a stranger. Each dance has its own song and measure, and, contrary tothe custom of El Islam, the sexes perform together. They begin by clappingthe hands and stamping where they stand; to this succeed advancing, retiring, wheeling about, jumping about, and the other peculiarities ofthe Jim Crow school. The principal measures are those of Ugadayn andBatar; these again are divided and subdivided;--I fancy that thedescription of Dileho, Jibwhayn, and Hobala would be as entertaining andinstructive to you, dear L. , as Polka, Gavotte, and Mazurka would be to aSomali. 

On Friday--our Sunday--a drunken crier goes about the town, threateningthe bastinado to all who neglect their five prayers. At half-past eleven akettledrum sounds a summons to the Jami or Cathedral. It is an old barnrudely plastered with whitewash; posts or columns of artless masonrysupport the low roof, and the smallness of the windows, or rather air-holes, renders its dreary length unpleasantly hot. There is no pulpit; theonly ornament is a rude representation of the Meccan Mosque, nailed like apothouse print to the wall; and the sole articles of furniture are raggedmats and old boxes, containing tattered chapters of the Koran in greasybindings. I enter with a servant carrying a prayer carpet, encounter thestare of 300 pair of eyes, belonging to parallel rows of squatters, recitethe customary two-bow prayer in honor of the mosque, placing sword androsary before me, and then, taking up a Koran, read the Cow Chapter (No. 18. ) loud and twangingly. At the Zohr or mid-day hour, the Muezzin insidethe mosque, standing before the Khatib or preacher, repeats the call toprayer, which the congregation, sitting upon their shins and feet, intoneafter him. This ended, all present stand up, and recite every man forhimself, a two-bow prayer of Sunnat or Example, concluding with theblessing on the Prophet and the Salam over each shoulder to all brotherBelievers. The Khatib then ascends his hole in the wall, which serves forpulpit, and thence addresses us with "The peace be upon you, and the mercyof Allah, and his benediction;" to which we respond through the Muezzin, "And upon you be peace, and Allah's mercy!" After sundry other religiousformulas and their replies, concluding with a second call to prayer, ourpreacher rises, and in the voice with which Sir Hudibras was wont

 "To blaspheme custard through the nose, "

preaches El Waaz [30], or the advice-sermon. He sits down for a fewminutes, and then, rising again, recites El Naat, or the Praise of theProphet and his Companions. These are the two heads into which the Moslemdiscourse is divided; unfortunately, however, there is no application. Ourpreacher, who is also Kazi or Judge, makes several blunders in his Arabic, and he reads his sermons, a thing never done in El Islam, except by the_modice docti_. The discourse over, our clerk, who is, if possible, worsethan the curate, repeats the form of call termed El Ikamah; then enteringthe Mihrab or niche, he recites the two-bow Friday litany, with, and infront of, the congregation. I remarked no peculiarity in the style ofpraying, except that all followed the practice of the Shafeis in ElYemen, --raising the hands for a moment, instead of letting them dependalong the thighs, between the Rukaat or bow and the Sujdah or prostration. This public prayer concluded, many people leave the mosque; a few remainfor more prolonged devotions. 

There is a queer kind of family likeness between this scene and that of avillage church, in some quiet nook of rural England. Old Sharmarkay, thesquire, attended by his son, takes his place close to the pulpit; andalthough the _Honoratiores_ have no padded and cushioned pews, theycomport themselves very much as if they had. Recognitions of the mostdistant description are allowed before the service commences: lookingaround is strictly forbidden during prayers; but all do not regard theprohibition, especially when a new moustache enters. Leaving the church, men shake hands, stand for a moment to exchange friendly gossip, oraddress a few words to the preacher, and then walk home to dinner. Thereare many salient points of difference. No bonnets appear in public: thesquire, after prayers, gives alms to the poor, and departs escorted by twodozen matchlock-men, who perseveringly fire their shotted guns. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] This style of profile--highly oval, with the chin and brow receding--is very conspicuous in Eastern Africa, where the face, slightlyprognathous, projects below the nose. 

[2] Gall-nuts form the base of the tattooing dye. It is worked in with aneedle, when it becomes permanent: applied with a pen, it requires to berenewed about once a fortnight. 

[3] Mats are the staple manufacture in Eastern, as in many parts ofWestern, Africa. The material is sometimes Daum or other palm: there are, however, many plants in more common use; they are made of every variety inshape and colour, and are dyed red, black, and yellow, --madder fromTajurrah and alum being the matter principally used. 

[4] When woman addresses woman she always uses her voice. 

[5] The Tobe, or Abyssinian "Quarry, " is the general garment of Africafrom Zayla to Bornou. In the Somali country it is a cotton sheet eightcubits long, and two breadths sewn together. An article of various uses, like the Highland plaid, it is worn in many ways; sometimes the right armis bared; in cold weather the whole person is muffled up, and in summer itis allowed to full below the waist. Generally it is passed behind theback, rests upon the left shoulder, is carried forward over the breast, surrounds the body, and ends hanging on the left shoulder, where itdisplays a gaudy silk fringe of red and yellow. This is the man's Tobe. The woman's dress is of similar material, but differently worn: the edgesare knotted generally over the right, sometimes over the left shoulder; itis girdled round the waist, below which hangs a lappet, which in coldweather can be brought like a hood over the head. Though highly becoming, and picturesque as the Roman toga, the Somali Tobe is by no means the mostdecorous of dresses: women in the towns often prefer the Arab costume, --ashort-sleeved robe extending to the knee, and a Futah or loin-clothunderneath. 

As regards the word Tobe, it signifies, in Arabic, a garment generally:the Somal call it "Maro, " and the half Tobe a "Shukkah. "

[6] Abu Kasim of Gaza, a well known commentator upon Abu Shujaa ofIsfahan, who wrote a text-book of the Shafei school. 

[7] The Hajj had seven sons, three of whom died in infancy. Ali andMahmud, the latter a fine young man, fell victims to small pox: Mohammedis now the eldest, and the youngest is a child called Ahmed, left foreducation at Mocha. The Hajj has also two daughters, married to BedouinSomal. 

[8] It is related that a Hazrami, flying from his fellow-countrymen, reached a town upon the confines of China. He was about to take refuge ina mosque, but entering, he stumbled over the threshold. "Ya Amud el Din"--"0 Pillar of the Faith!" exclaimed a voice from the darkness, calling uponthe patron saint of Hazramaut to save a Moslem from falling. "May thePillar of the Faith break thy head, " exclaimed the unpatriotic traveller, at once rising to resume his vain peregrinations. 

[9] Mercenaries from Mocha, Hazramaut, and Bir Hamid near Aden: they arearmed with matchlock, sword, and dagger; and each receives from thegovernor a monthly stipend of two dollars and a half. 

[10] The system of caste, which prevails in El Yemen, though not in thenorthern parts of Arabia, is general throughout the Somali country. Theprincipal families of outcasts are the following. 

The Yebir correspond with the Dushan of Southern Arabia: the males areusually jesters to the chiefs, and both sexes take certain parts atfestivals, marriages, and circumcisions. The number is said to be small, amounting to about 100 families in the northern Somali country. 

The Tomal or Handad, the blacksmiths, originally of Aydur race, havebecome vile by intermarriage with serviles. They mast now wed maidens oftheir own class, and live apart from the community: their magicalpractices are feared by the people, --the connection of wits and witchcraftis obvious, --and all private quarrels are traced to them. It has beenobserved that the blacksmith has ever been looked upon with awe bybarbarians on the same principle that made Vulcan a deity. In Abyssiniaall artisans are Budah, sorcerers, especially the blacksmith, and he is asocial outcast as among the Somal; even in El Hejaz, a land, unlike Yemen, opposed to distinctions amongst Moslems, the Khalawiyah, who work inmetal, are considered vile. Throughout the rest of El Islam the blacksmithis respected as treading in the path of David, the father of the craft. 

The word "Tomal, " opposed to Somal, is indigenous. "Handad "is palpably acorruption of the Arabic "Haddad, " ironworker. 

The Midgan, "one-hand, " corresponds with the Khadim of Yemen: he is calledKami or "archer" by the Arabs. There are three distinct tribes of thispeople, who are numerous in the Somali country: the best genealogistscannot trace their origin, though some are silly enough to derive them, like the Akhdam, from Shimr. All, however, agree in expelling the Midganfrom the gentle blood of Somali land, and his position has been comparedto that of Freedman amongst the Romans. These people take service underthe different chiefs, who sometimes entertain great numbers to aid inforays and frays; they do not, however, confine themselves to one craft. Many Midgans employ themselves in hunting and agriculture. Instead ofspear and shield, they carry bows and a quiver full of diminutive arrows, barbed and poisoned with the Waba, --a weapon used from Faizoghli to theCape of Good Hope. Like the Veddah of Ceylon, the Midgan is a poor shot, and scarcely strong enough to draw his stiff bow. He is accused ofmaliciousness; and the twanging of his string will put to flight a wholevillage. The poison is greatly feared: it causes, say the people, the hairand nails to drop off, and kills a man in half an hour. The only treatmentknown is instant excision of the part; and this is done the morefrequently, because here, as in other parts of Africa, such _stigmates_are deemed ornamental. 

In appearance the Midgan is dark and somewhat stunted; he is known to thepeople by peculiarities of countenance and accent. 

[11] The reason why Europeans fail to explain their thoughts to Orientalsgenerally is that they transfer the Laconism of Western to Easterntongues. We for instance say, "Fetch the book I gave you last night. " Thisin Hindostani, to choose a well-known tongue, must be smothered with wordsthus: "What book was by me given to you yesterday by night, that bookbringing to me, come!"

[12] I have alluded to these subjects in a previous work upon the subjectof Meccah and El Medinah. 

[13] This is one of the stock complaints against the Moslem scheme. Yet isit not practically the case with ourselves? In European society, the bestare generally those who prefer the companionship of their own sex; the"ladies' man" and the woman who avoids women are rarely choice specimens. 

[14] The Shantarah board is thus made, with twenty-five points technicallycalled houses. [Illustration] The players have twelve counters a piece, and each places two at a time upon any of the unoccupied angles, till allexcept the centre are filled up. The player who did not begin the gamemust now move a man; his object is to inclose one of his adversary'sbetween two of his own, in which case he removes it, and is entitled tocontinue moving till he can no longer take. It is a game of some skill, and perpetual practice enables the Somal to play it as the Persians dobackgammon, with great art and little reflection. The game is calledKurkabod when, as in our draughts, the piece passing over one of theadversary's takes it. 

Shahh is another favourite game. The board is made thus, [Illustration]and the pieces as at Shantarah are twelve in number. The object is toplace three men in line, --as the German Muhle and the Afghan "Kitar, "--when any one of the adversary's pieces may be removed. 

Children usually prefer the game called indifferently Togantog andSaddikiya. A double line of five or six holes is made in the ground, fourcounters are placed in each, and when in the course of play four men meetin the same hole, one of the adversary's is removed. It resembles theBornou game, played with beans and holes in the sand. Citizens and themore civilised are fond of "Bakkis, " which, as its name denotes, is acorruption of the well-known Indian Pachisi. None but the travelled knowchess, and the Damal (draughts) and Tavola (backgammon) of the Turks. 

[15] The same objection against "villanous saltpetre" was made byourselves in times of old: the French knights called gunpowder the Graveof Honor. This is natural enough, the bravest weapon being generally theshortest--that which places a man hand to hand with his opponent. Some ofthe Kafir tribes have discontinued throwing the Assegai, and enter battlewielding it as a pike. Usually, also, the shorter the weapon is, the morefatal are the conflicts in which it is employed. The old French "Briquet, "the Afghan "Charay, " and the Goorka "Kukkri, " exemplify this fact in thehistory of arms. 

[16] In the latter point it differs from the Assegai, which is worked bythe Kafirs to the finest temper. 

[17] It is called by the Arabs Kubabah, by the Somal Goasa. Johnston(Travels in Southern Abyssinia, chap. 8. ) has described the game; he errs, however, in supposing it peculiar to the Dankali tribes. 

[18] This is in fact the pilgrim dress of El Islam; its wide diffusion tothe eastward, as well as west of the Red Sea, proves its antiquity as apopular dress. 

[19] I often regretted having neglected the precaution of a bottle ofwalnut juice, --a white colour is decidedly too conspicuous in this part ofthe East. 

[20] The strict rule of the Moslem faith is this: if a man neglect topray, he is solemnly warned to repent. Should he simply refuse, without, however, disbelieving in prayer, he is to be put to death, and receiveMoslem burial; in the other contingency, he is not bathed, prayed for, orinterred in holy ground. This severe order, however, lies in generalabeyance. 

[21] "Tuarick grandiloquence, " says Richardson (vol. I. P. 207. ), "savoursof blasphemy, e. G. The lands, rocks, and mountains of Ghat do not belongto God but to the Azghar. " Equally irreverent are the Kafirs of the Cape. They have proved themselves good men in wit as well as war; yet, like theold Greenlanders and some of the Burmese tribes, they are apparentlyunable to believe in the existence of the Supreme. A favourite question tothe missionaries was this, "Is your God white or black?" If the European, startled by the question, hesitated for a moment, they would leave himwith open signs of disgust at having been made the victims of a hoax. 

The assertion generally passes current that the idea of an OmnipotentBeing is familiar to all people, even the most barbarous. My limitedexperience argues the contrary. Savages begin with fetisism and demon-worship, they proceed to physiolatry (the religion of the Vedas) andSabaeism: the deity is the last and highest pinnacle of the spiritualtemple, not placed there except by a comparatively civilised race of highdevelopment, which leads them to study and speculate upon cosmical andpsychical themes. This progression is admirably wrought out in ProfessorMax Muller's "Rig Veda Sanhita. "

[22] The Moslem corpse is partly sentient in the tomb, reminding thereader of Tennyson:

 "I thought the dead had peace, but it is not so; To have no peace in the grave, is that not sad?"

[23] The prayers for the dead have no Rukaat or bow as in other orisons. 

[24] The general Moslem name for the African coast from the Somaliseaboard southwards to the Mozambique, inhabited by negrotic races. 

[25] The Moslem rosary consists of ninety-nine beads divided into sets ofthirty-three each by some peculiar sign, as a bit of red coral. [Illustration] The consulter, beginning at a chance place, counts up tothe mark: if the number of beads be odd, he sets down a single dot, ifeven, two. This is done four times, when a figure is produced as in themargin. Of these there are sixteen, each having its peculiar name andproperties. The art is merely Geomancy in its rudest shape; a mode ofvaticination which, from its wide diffusion, must be of high antiquity. The Arabs call it El Baml, and ascribe its present form to the Imam Jaafarel Sadik; amongst them it is a ponderous study, connected as usual withastrology. Napoleon's "Book of Fate" is a specimen of the old Easternsuperstition presented to Europe in a modern and simple form. 

[26] In this country, as in Western and Southern Africa, the leopard, notthe wolf, is the shepherd's scourge. 

[27] Popular superstition in Abyssinia attributes the same power to theFelashas or Jews. 

[28] Our Elixir, a corruption of the Arabic El Iksir. 

[29] In the Somali tongue its name is Barki: they make a stool of similarshape, and call it Barjimo. 

[30] Specimens of these discourses have been given by Mr. Lane, Mod. Egypt, chap. 3. It is useless to offer others, as all bear the closestresemblance. 

CHAP. III. 

EXCURSIONS NEAR ZAYLA. 

We determined on the 9th of November to visit the island of Saad el Din, the larger of the two patches of ground which lie about two miles north ofthe town. Reaching our destination, after an hour's lively sail, we passedthrough a thick belt of underwood tenanted by swarms of midges, with adamp chill air crying fever, and a fetor of decayed vegetation smellingdeath. To this succeeded a barren flat of silt and sand, white with saltand ragged with salsolaceous stubble, reeking with heat, and covered withold vegetation. Here, says local tradition, was the ancient site of Zayla[1], built by Arabs from Yemen. The legend runs that when Saad el Din wasbesieged and slain by David, King of Ethiopia, the wells dried up and theisland sank. Something doubtless occurred which rendered a removaladvisable: the sons of the Moslem hero fled to Ahmed bin El Ashraf, Princeof Senaa, offering their allegiance if he would build fortifications forthem and aid them against the Christians of Abyssinia. The consequence wasa walled circuit upon the present site of Zayla: of its old localityalmost may be said "periere ruinae. "

During my stay with Sharmarkay I made many inquiries about historicalworks, and the Kazi; Mohammed Khatib, a Harar man of the Hawiyah tribe, was at last persuaded to send his Daftar, or office papers, for myinspection. They formed a kind of parish register of births, deaths, marriages, divorces, and manumissions. From them it appeared that in A. H. 1081 (A. D. 1670-71) the Shanabila Sayyids were Kazis of Zayla and retainedthe office for 138 years. It passed two generations ago into the hands ofMohammed Musa, a Hawiyah, and the present Kazi is his nephew. 

The origin of Zayla, or, as it is locally called, "Audal, " is lost in thefogs of Phoenician fable. The Avalites [2] of the Periplus and Pliny, itwas in earliest ages dependent upon the kingdom of Axum. [3] About theseventh century, when the Southern Arabs penetrated into the heart ofAbyssinia [4], it became the great factory of the eastern coast, and roseto its height of splendour. Taki el Din Makrizi [5] includes under thename of Zayla, a territory of forty-three days' march by forty, anddivides it into seven great provinces, speaking about fifty languages, andruled by Amirs, subject to the Hati (Hatze) of Abyssinia. 

In the fourteenth century it became celebrated by its wars with the kingsof Abyssinia: sustaining severe defeats the Moslems retired upon theirharbour, which, after an obstinate defence fell into the hands of theChristians. The land was laid waste, the mosques were converted intochurches, and the Abyssinians returned to their mountains laden withbooty. About A. D. 1400, Saad el Din, the heroic prince of Zayla, wasbesieged in his city by the Hatze David the Second: slain by a spear-thrust, he left his people powerless in the hands of their enemies, tillhis sons, Sabr el Din, Ali, Mansur, and Jemal el Din retrieved the causeof El Islam. 

Ibn Batuta, a voyager of the fourteenth century, thus describes the place:"I then went from Aden by sea, and after four days came to the city ofZayla. This is a settlement, of the Berbers [6], a people of Sudan, of theShafia sect. Their country is a desert of two months' extent; the firstpart is termed Zayla, the last Makdashu. The greatest number of theinhabitants, however, are of the Rafizah sect. [7] Their food is mostlycamels' flesh and fish. [8] The stench of the country is extreme, as isalso its filth, from the stink of the fish and the blood of camels whichare slaughtered in its streets. "

About A. D. 1500 the Turks conquered Yemen, and the lawless Janissaries, "who lived upon the very bowels of commerce" [9], drove the peaceable Arabmerchants to the opposite shore. The trade of India, flying from the sameenemy, took refuge in Adel, amongst its partners. [10] The Turks ofArabia, though they were blind to the cause, were sensible of the greatinflux of wealth into the opposite kingdoms. They took possession, therefore, of Zayla, which they made a den of thieves, established therewhat they called a custom-house [11], and, by means of that post andgalleys cruising in the narrow straits of Bab el Mandeb, they laid theIndian trade to Adel under heavy contributions that might indemnify themfor the great desertion their violence and injustice had occasioned inArabia. 

This step threatened the very existence both of Adel and Abyssinia; andconsidering the vigorous government of the one, and the weak politics andprejudices of the other, it is more than probable that the Turks wouldhave subdued both, had they not in India, their chief object, met thePortuguese, strongly established. 

Bartema, travelling in A. D. 1503, treats in his 15th chapter of "Zeila inAEthiopia and the great fruitlessness thereof, and of certain strangebeasts seen there. "

"In this city is great frequentation of merchandise, as in a most famousmart. There is marvellous abundance of gold and iron, and an innumerablenumber of black slaves sold for small prices; these are taken in War bythe Mahomedans out of AEthiopia, of the kingdom of Presbyter Johannes, orPreciosus Johannes, which some also call the king of Jacobins or Abyssins, being a Christian; and are carried away from thence into Persia, ArabiaFelix, Babylonia of Nilus or Alcair, and Meccah. In this city justice andgood laws are observed. [12] . . . It hath an innumerable multitude ofmerchants; the walls are greatly decayed, and the haven rude anddespicable. The King or Sultan of the city is a Mahomedan, andentertaineth in wages a great multitude of footmen and horsemen. They aregreatly given to war, and wear only one loose single vesture: they are ofdark ash colour, inclining to black. "

In July 1516 Zayla was taken, and the town burned by a Portuguesearmament, under Lopez Suarez Alberguiera. When the Turks were compelledto retire from Southern Arabia, it became subject to the Prince of Senaa, who gave it in perpetuity to the family of a Senaani merchant. 

The kingdom of Yemen falling into decay, Zayla passed under the authorityof the Sherif of Mocha, who, though receiving no part of the revenue, hadyet the power of displacing the Governor. By him it was farmed out to theHajj Sharmarkay, who paid annually to Sayyid Mohammed el Barr, at Mocha, the sum of 750 crowns, and reserved all that he could collect above thatsum for himself. In A. D. 1848 Zayla was taken from the family El Barr, andfarmed out to Sharmarkay by the Turkish Governor of Mocha and Hodaydah. 

The extant remains at Saad el Din are principally those of water-courses, rude lines of coralline, stretching across the plain towards wells, nowlost [13], and diminutive tanks, made apparently to collect rain water. One of these latter is a work of some art--a long sunken vault, with apointed arch projecting a few feet above the surface of the ground;outside it is of rough stone, the interior is carefully coated with finelime, and from the roof long stalactites depend. Near it is a cemetery:the graves are, for the most part, provided with large slabs of closeblack basalt, planted in the ground edgeways, and in the shape of a smalloblong. The material was most probably brought from the mountains nearTajurrah: at another part of the island I found it in the shape of agigantic mill-stone, half imbedded in the loose sand. Near the cemetery weobserved a mound of rough stones surrounding an upright pole; this is thetomb of Shaykh Saad el Din, formerly the hero, now the favourite patronsaint of Zayla, --still popularly venerated, as was proved by the remainsof votive banquets, broken bones, dried garbage, and stones blackened bythe fire. 

After wandering through the island, which contained not a human being savea party of Somal boatmen, cutting firewood for Aden, and having massacreda number of large fishing hawks and small sea-birds, to astonish thenatives, our companions, we returned to the landing-place. Here an awninghad been spread; the goat destined for our dinner--I have long sinceconquered all dislike, dear L. , to seeing dinner perambulating--had beenboiled and disposed in hunches upon small mountains of rice, and jars ofsweet water stood in the air to cool. After feeding, regardless ofQuartana and her weird sisterhood, we all lay down for siesta in the lightsea-breeze. Our slumbers were heavy, as the Zayla people say is ever thecase at Saad el Din, and the sun had declined low ere we awoke. The tidewas out, and we waded a quarter of a mile to the boat, amongst giant crabswho showed grisly claws, sharp coralline, and sea-weed so thick as tobecome almost a mat. You must believe me when I tell you that in theshallower parts the sun was painfully hot, even to my well tried feet. Wepicked up a few specimens of fine sponge, and coral, white and red, which, if collected, might be valuable to Zayla, and, our pic-nic concluded, wereturned home. 

On the 14th November we left the town to meet a caravan of the Danakil[14], and to visit the tomb of the great saint Abu Zarbay. The formerapproached in a straggling line of asses, and about fifty camels laidenwith cows' hides, ivories and one Abyssinian slave-girl. The men were wildas ourang-outangs, and the women fit only to flog cattle: their animalswere small, meagre-looking, and loosely made; the asses of the Bedouins, however, are far superior to those of Zayla, and the camels are, comparatively speaking, well bred. [15] In a few minutes the beasts wereunloaded, the Gurgis or wigwams pitched, and all was prepared for repose. A caravan so extensive being an unusual event, --small parties carryingonly grain come in once or twice a week, --the citizens abandoned eventheir favourite game of ball, with an eye to speculation. We stood at"Government House, " over the Ashurbara Gate, to see the Bedouins, and wequizzed (as Town men might denounce a tie or scoff at a boot) the hugeround shields and the uncouth spears of these provincials. Presently theyentered the streets, where we witnessed their frantic dance in presence ofthe Hajj and other authorities. This is the wild men's way of expressingtheir satisfaction that Fate has enabled them to convoy the caravanthrough all the dangers of the desert. 

The Shaykh Ibrahim Abu Zarbay [16] lies under a whitewashed dome close tothe Ashurbara Gate of Zayla: an inscription cut in wood over the doorwayinforms us that the building dates from A. H. 1155=AD. 1741-2. It is nowdilapidated, the lintel is falling in, the walls are decaying, and thecupola, which is rudely built, with primitive gradients, --each stepsupported as in Cashmere and other parts of India, by wooden beams, --threatens the heads of the pious. The building is divided into twocompartments, forming a Mosque and a Mazar or place of pious visitation:in the latter are five tombs, the two largest covered with common chintzstuff of glaring colours. Ibrahim was one of the forty-four Hazrami saintswho landed at Berberah, sat in solemn conclave upon Auliya Kumbo or HolyHill, and thence dispersed far and wide for the purpose of propagandism. He travelled to Harar about A. D. 1430 [17], converted many to El Islam, and left there an honored memory. His name is immortalised in El Yemen bythe introduction of El Kat. [17]

Tired of the town, I persuaded the Hajj to send me with an escort to theHissi or well. At daybreak I set out with four Arab matchlock-men, andtaking a direction nearly due west, waded and walked over an alluvialplain flooded by every high tide. On our way we passed lines of donkeysand camels carrying water-skins from the town; they were under guard likeourselves, and the sturdy dames that drove them indulged in many a loudjoke at our expense. After walking about four miles we arrived at what iscalled the Takhushshah--the sandy bed of a torrent nearly a mile broad[19], covered with a thin coat of caked mud: in the centre is a line ofpits from three to four feet deep, with turbid water at the bottom. Aroundthem were several frame-works of four upright sticks connected byhorizontal bars, and on these were stretched goats'-skins, forming thecattle-trough of the Somali country. About the wells stood troops ofcamels, whose Eesa proprietors scowled fiercely at us, and stalked overthe plain with their long, heavy spears: for protection against thesepeople, the citizens have erected a kind of round tower, with a ladder fora staircase. Near it are some large tamarisks and the wild henna of theSomali country, which supplies a sweet-smelling flower, but is valuelessas a dye. A thick hedge of thorn-trees surrounds the only cultivatedground near Zayla: as Ibn Said declared in old times, "the people have nogardens, and know nothing of fruits. " The variety and the luxuriance ofgrowth, however, prove that industry is the sole desideratum. I remarkedthe castor-plant, --no one knows its name or nature [20], --the Rayhan orBasil, the Kadi, a species of aloe, whose strongly scented flowers theArabs of Yemen are fond of wearing in their turbans. [21] Of vegetables, there were cucumbers, egg-plants, and the edible hibiscus; the only fruitwas a small kind of water-melon. 

After enjoying a walk through the garden and a bath at the well, Istarted, gun in hand, towards the jungly plain that stretches towards thesea. It abounds in hares, and in a large description of spur-fowl [22];the beautiful little sand antelope, scarcely bigger than an English rabbit[23], bounded over the bushes, its thin legs being scarcely perceptibleduring the spring. I was afraid to fire with ball, the place being full ofBedouins' huts, herds, and dogs, and the vicinity of man made the animalstoo wild for small shot. In revenge, I did considerable havoc amongst thespur-fowl, who proved equally good for sport and the pot, besides knockingover a number of old crows, whose gall the Arab soldiers wanted forcollyrium. [24] Beyond us lay Warabalay or Hyaenas' hill [25]: we did notvisit it, as all its tenants had been driven away by the migration of theNomads. 

Returning, we breakfasted in the garden, and rain coming on, we walked outto enjoy the Oriental luxury of a wetting. Ali Iskandar, an old Arabmercenary, afforded us infinite amusement: a little opium made him halfcrazy, when his sarcastic pleasantries never ceased. We then brought outthe guns, and being joined by the other escort, proceeded to a trial ofskill. The Arabs planted a bone about 200 paces from us, --a long distancefor a people who seldom fire beyond fifty yards;--moreover, the wind blewthe flash strongly in their faces. Some shot two or three dozen times wideof the mark and were derided accordingly: one man hit the bone; he at oncestopped practice, as the wise in such matters will do, and shook handswith all the party. He afterwards showed that his success on this occasionhad been accidental; but he was a staunch old sportsman, remarkable, asthe Arab Bedouins generally are, for his skill and perseverance instalking. Having no rifle, I remained a spectator. My revolvers excitedabundant attention, though none would be persuaded to touch them. Thelargest, which fitted with a stock became an excellent carbine, was atonce named Abu Sittah (the Father of Six) and the Shaytan or Devil: thepocket pistol became the Malunah or Accursed, and the distance to which itcarried ball made every man wonder. The Arabs had antiquated matchlocks, mostly worn away to paper thinness at the mouth: as usual they fired withthe right elbow raised to the level of the ear, and the left hand graspingthe barrel, where with us the breech would be. Hassan Turki had one ofthose fine old Shishkhanah rifles formerly made at Damascus and Senaa: itcarried a two-ounce ball with perfect correctness, but was so badlymounted in its block-butt, shaped like a Dutch cheese, that it alwaysrequired a rest. 

On our return home we met a party of Eesa girls, who derided my colour anddoubted the fact of my being a Moslem. The Arabs declared me to be aShaykh of Shaykhs, and translated to the prettiest of the party animpromptu proposal of marriage. She showed but little coyness, and statedher price to be an Audulli or necklace [26], a couple of Tobes, --she askedone too many--a few handfuls of beads, [27] and a small present for herpapa. She promised, naively enough, to call next day and inspect thegoods: the publicity of the town did not deter her, but the shamefacednessof my two companions prevented our meeting again. Arrived at Zayla after asunny walk, the Arab escort loaded their guns, formed a line for me topass along, fired a salute, and entered to coffee and sweetmeats. 

On the 24th of November I had an opportunity of seeing what a timid peopleare these Somal of the towns, who, as has been well remarked, are, likethe settled Arabs, the worst specimens of their race. Three Eesa Bedouinsappeared before the southern gate, slaughtered a cow, buried its head, andsent for permission to visit one of their number who had been imprisonedby the Hajj for the murder of his son Masud. The place was at once throwninto confusion, the gates were locked, and the walls manned with Arabmatchlock men: my three followers armed themselves, and I was summoned tothe fray. Some declared that the Bedouins were "doing" [28] the town;others that they were the van of a giant host coming to ravish, sack, andslay: it turned out that these Bedouins had preceded their comrades, whowere bringing in, as the price of blood [29], an Abyssinian slave, sevencamels, seven cows, a white mule, and a small black mare. The prisoner wasvisited by his brother, who volunteered to share his confinement, and themeeting was described as most pathetic: partly from mental organisationand partly from the peculiarities of society, the only real tieacknowledged by these people is that which connects male kinsmen. TheHajj, after speaking big, had the weakness to let the murderer departalive: this measure, like peace-policy in general, is the best and surestway to encourage bloodshed and mutilation. But a few months before, anEesa Bedouin enticed out of the gates a boy about fifteen, and slaughteredhim for the sake of wearing the feather. His relations were directed toreceive the Diyat or blood fine, and the wretch was allowed to departunhurt--a silly clemency!

You must not suppose, dear L. , that I yielded myself willingly to theweary necessity of a month at Zayla. But how explain to you the obstaclesthrown in our way by African indolence, petty intrigue, and interminablesuspicion? Four months before leaving Aden I had taken the precaution ofmeeting the Hajj, requesting him to select for us an Abban [30], orprotector, and to provide camels and mules; two months before starting Ihad advanced to him the money required in a country where nothing can bedone without a whole or partial prepayment. The protector was to beprocured anywhere, the cattle at Tajurrah, scarcely a day's sail fromZayla: when I arrived nothing was forthcoming. I at once begged thegovernor to exert himself: he politely promised to start a messenger thathour, and he delayed doing so for ten days. An easterly wind set in andgave the crew an excuse for wasting another fortnight. [31] Travellers arean irritable genus: I stormed and fretted at the delays to showearnestness of purpose. All the effect was a paroxysm of talking. The Hajjand his son treated me, like a spoilt child, to a double allowance of foodand milk: they warned me that the small-pox was depopulating Harar, thatthe road swarmed with brigands, and that the Amir or prince was certaindestruction, --I contented myself with determining that both were trueOriental hyperbolists, and fell into more frequent fits of passion. Theold man could not comprehend my secret. "If the English, " he privatelyremarked, "wish to take Harar, let them send me 500 soldiers; if not, Ican give all information concerning it. " When convinced of mydetermination to travel, he applied his mind to calculating the benefitwhich might be derived from the event, and, as the following pages willshow, he was not without success. 

Towards the end of November, four camels were procured, an Abban wasengaged, we hired two women cooks and a fourth servant; my baggage wasreformed, the cloth and tobacco being sewn up in matting, and made to fitthe camels' sides [32]; sandals were cut out for walking, letters werewritten, messages of dreary length, --too important to be set down in blackand white, --were solemnly entrusted to us, palavers were held, and affairsbegan to wear the semblance of departure. The Hajj strongly recommended usto one of the principal families of the Gudabirsi tribe, who would pass uson to their brother-in-law Adan, the Gerad or prince of the Girhi; and he, in due time, to his kinsman the Amir of Harar. The chain was commenced byplacing us under the protection of one Raghe, a petty Eesa chief of theMummasan clan. By the good aid of the Hajj and our sweetmeats, he waspersuaded, for the moderate consideration of ten Tobes [33], to accompanyus to the frontier of his clan, distant about fifty miles, to introduce usto the Gudabirsi, and to provide us with three men as servants, and asuitable escort, a score or so, in dangerous places. He began, with us inan extravagant manner, declaring that nothing but "name" induced him toundertake the perilous task; that he had left his flocks and herds at aseason of uncommon risk, and that all his relations must receive a certainhonorarium. But having paid at least three pounds for a few days of hissociety, we declined such liberality, and my companions, I believe, declared that it would be "next time:"--on all such occasions I make apoint of leaving the room, since for one thing given at least five arepromised on oath. Raghe warned us seriously to prepare for dangers anddisasters, and this seemed to be the general opinion of Zayla, whose timidcitizens determined that we were tired of our lives. The cold had driventhe Nomads from the hills to the warm maritime Plains [34], we shouldtherefore traverse a populous region; and, as the End of Time aptlyobserved, "Man eats you up, the Desert does not. " Moreover this year theAyyal Nuh Ismail, a clan of the Habr Awal tribe, is "out, " and has beensuccessful against the Eesa, who generally are the better men. They sweepthe country in Kaum or Commandos [35], numbering from twenty to twohundred troopers, armed with assegai, dagger, and shield, and carrying awater skin and dried meat for a three days' ride, sufficient to scour thelength of the low land. The honest fellows are not so anxious to plunderas to ennoble themselves by taking life: every man hangs to his saddle bowan ostrich [36] feather, --emblem of truth, --and the moment his javelin hasdrawn blood, he sticks it into his tufty pole with as much satisfaction aswe feel when attaching a medal to our shell-jackets. It is by no meansnecessary to slay the foe in fair combat: Spartan-like, treachery ispreferred to stand-up fighting; and you may measure their ideas of honor, by the fact that women are murdered in cold blood, as by the Amazulus, with the hope that the unborn child may prove a male. The hero carrieshome the trophy of his prowess [37], and his wife, springing from hertent, utters a long shrill scream of joy, a preliminary to boasting of herman's valour, and bitterly taunting the other possessors of _noirsfaineants_: the derided ladies abuse their lords with peculiar virulence, and the lords fall into paroxysms of envy, hatred, and malice. During myshort stay at Zayla six or seven murders were committed close to thewalls: the Abban brought news, a few hours before our departure, that twoEesas had been slaughtered by the Habr Awal. The Eesa and Dankali alsohave a blood feud, which causes perpetual loss of life. But a short timeago six men of these two tribes were travelling together, when suddenlythe last but one received from the hindermost a deadly spear thrust in theback. The wounded man had the presence of mind to plunge his dagger in theside of the wayfarer who preceded him, thus dying, as the people say, incompany. One of these events throws the country into confusion, for the_vendetta_ is rancorous and bloody, as in ancient Germany or in modernCorsica. Our Abban enlarged upon the unpleasant necessity of travellingall night towards the hills, and lying _perdu_ during the day. The mostdangerous times are dawn and evening tide: the troopers spare their horsesduring the heat, and themselves during the dew-fall. Whenever, in thedesert, --where, says the proverb, all men are enemies--you sight a fellowcreature from afar, you wave the right arm violently up and down, shouting "War Joga! War Joga!"--stand still! stand still! If they halt, you send a parliamentary to within speaking distance. Should they advance[38], you fire, taking especial care not to miss; when two saddles areemptied, the rest are sure to decamp. 

I had given the Abban orders to be in readiness, --my patience beingthoroughly exhausted, --on Sunday, the 26th of November, and determined towalk the whole way, rather than waste another day waiting for cattle. Asthe case had become hopeless, a vessel was descried standing straight fromTajurrah, and, suddenly as could happen in the Arabian Nights, four finemules, saddled and bridled, Abyssinian fashion, appeared at the door. [39]

FOOTNOTES

[1] Brace describes Zayla as "a small island, on the very coast of Adel. "To reconcile discrepancy, he adopts the usual clumsy expedient ofsupposing two cities of the same name, one situated seven degrees south ofthe other. Salt corrects the error, but does not seem to have heard of oldZayla's insular position. 

[2] The inhabitants were termed Avalitae, and the Bay "Sinus Avaliticus. "Some modern travellers have confounded it with Adule or Adulis, the portof Axum, founded by fugitive Egyptian slaves. The latter, however, liesfurther north: D'Anville places it at Arkiko, Salt at Zula (or Azule), near the head of Annesley Bay. 

[3] The Arabs were probably the earliest colonists of this coast. Even theSawahil people retain a tradition that their forefathers originated in thesouth of Arabia. 

[4] To the present day the district of Gozi is peopled by Mohammedanscalled Arablet, "whose progenitors, " according to Harris, "are said bytradition to have been left there prior to the reign of Nagasi, first Kingof Shoa. Hossain, Wahabit, and Abdool Kurreem, generals probably detachedfrom the victorious army of Graan (Mohammed Gragne), are represented tohave come from Mecca, and to have taken possession of the country, --thelegend assigning to the first of these warriors as his capital, thepopulous village of Medina, which is conspicuous on a cone among themountains, shortly after entering the valley of Robi. "

[5] Historia Regum Islamiticorum in Abyssinia, Lugd. Bat. 1790. [6] Theaffinity between the Somal and the Berbers of Northern Africa, and theirdescent from Canaan, son of Ham, has been learnedly advanced and refutedby several Moslem authors. The theory appears to have arisen from amistake; Berberah, the great emporium of the Somali country, beingconfounded with the Berbers of Nubia. 

[7] Probably Zaidi from Yemen. At present the people of Zayla are allorthodox Sunnites. 

[8] Fish, as will be seen in these pages, is no longer a favourite articleof diet. 

[9] Bruce, book 8. 

[10] Hence the origin of the trade between Africa and Cutch, whichcontinues uninterrupted to the present time. Adel, Arabia, and India, asBruce remarks, were three partners in one trade, who mutually exportedtheir produce to Europe, Asia, and Africa, at that time the whole knownworld. 

[11] The Turks, under a show of protecting commerce, established theseposts in their different ports. But they soon made it appear that the endproposed was only to ascertain who were the subjects from whom they couldlevy the most enormous extortions. Jeddah, Zebid, and Mocha, the places ofconsequence nearest to Abyssinia on the Arabian coast, Suakin, a seaporttown on the very barriers of Abyssinia, in the immediate way of theircaravan to Cairo on the African side, were each under the command of aTurkish Pasha and garrisoned by Turkish troops sent thither fromConstantinople by the emperors Selim and Sulayman. 

[12] Bartema's account of its productions is as follows: "The soil bearethwheat and hath abundance of flesh and divers other commodious things. Ithath also oil, not of olives, but of some other thing, I know not what. There is also plenty of honey and wax; there are likewise certain sheephaving their tails of the weight of sixteen pounds, and exceeding fat; thehead and neck are black, and all the rest white. There are also sheepaltogether white, and having tails of a cubit long, and hanging down likea great cluster of grapes, and have also great laps of skin hanging downfrom their throats, as have bulls and oxen, hanging down almost to theground. There are also certain kind with horns like unto harts' horns;these are wild, and when they be taken are given to the Sultan of thatcity as a kingly present. I saw there also certain kind having only onehorn in the midst of the forehead, as hath the unicorn, and about a spanof length, but the horn bendeth backward: they are of bright shining redcolour. But they that have harts' horns are inclining to black colour. Living is there good and cheap. "

[13] The people have a tradition that a well of sweet water exists unseenin some part of the island. When Saad el Din was besieged in Zayla by theHatze David, the host of El Islam suffered severely for the want of thefresh element. 

[14] The singular is Dankali, the plural Danakil: both words are Arabic, the vernacular name being "Afar" or "Afer, " the Somali "Afarnimun. " Theword is pronounced like the Latin "Afer, " an African. 

[15] Occasionally at Zayla--where all animals are expensive--Dankalicamels may be bought: though small, they resist hardship and fatiguebetter than the other kinds. A fair price would be about ten dollars. TheSomal divide their animals into two kinds, Gel Ad and Ayyun. The former isof white colour, loose and weak, but valuable, I was told by Lieut. Speke, in districts where little water is found: the Ayyun is darker andstronger; its price averages about a quarter more than the Gel Ad. 

To the Arabian traveller nothing can be more annoying than these Somalicamels. They must be fed four hours during the day, otherwise they cannotmarch. They die from change of food or sudden removal to another country. Their backs are ever being galled, and, with all precautions, a month'smarch lays them up for three times that period. They are never used forriding, except in cases of sickness or accidents. 

The Somali ass is generally speaking a miserable animal. Lieut. Speke, however, reports that on the windward coast it is not to be despised. AtHarar I found a tolerable breed, superior in appearance but inferior insize to the thoroughbred little animals at Aden. They are never ridden;their principal duty is that of carrying water-skins to and from thewalls. 

[16] He is generally called Abu Zerbin, more rarely Abu Zarbayn, and AbuZarbay. I have preferred the latter orthography upon the authority of theShaykh Jami, most learned of the Somal. 

[17] In the same year (A. D. 1429-30) the Shaykh el Shazili, buried under adome at Mocha, introduced coffee into Arabia. 

[18] The following is an extract from the Pharmaceutical Journal, vol. Xii. No. V. Nov. 1. 1852. Notes upon the drugs observed at Aden Arabia, byJames Vaughan, Esq. , M. R. C. S. E. , Assist. Surg. , B. A. , Civil and Port. Surg. , Aden, Arabia. 

"Kat [Arabic], the name of a drug which is brought into Aden from theinterior, and largely used, especially by the Arabs, as a pleasurableexcitant. It is generally imported in small camel-loads, consisting of anumber of parcels, each containing about forty slender twigs with theleaves attached, and carefully wrapped so as to prevent as much aspossible exposure to the atmosphere. The leaves form the edible part, andthese, when chewed, are said to produce great hilarity of spirits, and anagreeable state of wakefulness. Some estimate may be formed of the strongpredilection which the Arabs have for this drug from the quantity used inAden alone, which averages about 280 camel-loads annually. The marketprice is one and a quarter rupees per parcel, and the exclusive privilegeof selling it is farmed by the government for 1500 rupees per year. Forskal found the plant growing on the mountains of Yemen, and hasenumerated it as a new genus in the class Pentandria, under the name ofCatha. He notices two species, and distinguishes them as _Catha edulis_and _Catha spinosa_. According to his account it is cultivated on the sameground as coffee, and is planted from cuttings. Besides the effects abovestated, the Arabs, he tells us, believe the land where it grows to besecure from the inroads of plague; and that a twig of the Kat carried inthe bosom is a certain safeguard against infection. The learned botanistobserves, with respect to these supposed virtues, 'Gustus foliorum tamenvirtutem tantam indicare non videtur. ' Like coffee, Kat, from itsacknowledged stimulating effects, has been a fertile theme for theexercise of Mahomedan casuistry, and names of renown are ranged on bothsides of the question, whether the use of Kat does or does not contravenethe injunction of the Koran, Thou shalt not drink wine or anythingintoxicating. The succeeding notes, borrowed chiefly from De Sacy'sresearches, may be deemed worthy of insertion here. 

"Sheikh Abdool Kader Ansari Jezeri, a learned Mahomedan author, in histreatise on the use of coffee, quotes the following from the writings ofFakr ood Deen Mekki:--'It is said that the first who introduced coffee wasthe illustrious saint Aboo Abdallah Mahomed Dhabhani ibn Said; but we havelearned by the testimony of many persons that the use of coffee in Yemen, its origin, and first introduction into that country are due to thelearned All Shadeli ibn Omar, one of the disciples of the learned doctorNasr ood Deen, who is regarded as one of the chiefs among the orderShadeli, and whose worth attests the high degree of spirituality to whichthey had attained. Previous to that time they made coffee of the vegetablesubstance called Cafta, which is the same as the leaf known under the nameof Kat, and not of Boon (the coffee berry) nor any preparation of Boon. The use of this beverage extended in course of time as far as Aden, but inthe days of Mahomed Dhabhani the vegetable substance from which it wasprepared disappeared from Aden. Then it was that the Sheik advised thosewho had become his disciples to try the drink made from the Boon, whichwas found to produce the same effect as the Kat, inducing sleeplessness, and that it was attended with less expense and trouble. The use of coffeehas been kept up from that time to the present. '

"D'Herbelot states that the beverage called Calmat al Catiat or Caftah, was prohibited in Yemen in consequence of its effects upon the brain. Onthe other hand a synod of learned Mussulmans is said to have decreed thatas beverages of Kat and Cafta do not impair the health or impede theobservance of religious duties, but only increase hilarity and good-humour, it was lawful to use them, as also the drink made from the boon orcoffee-berry. I am not aware that Kat is used in Aden in any other waythan for mastication. From what I have heard, however, I believe that adecoction resembling tea is made from the leaf by the Arabs in theinterior; and one who is well acquainted with our familiar beverageassures me that the effects are not unlike those produced by strong greentea, with this advantage in favour of Kat, that the excitement is alwaysof a pleasing and agreeable kind. [Note: "Mr. Vaughan has transmitted twospecimens called Tubbare Kat and Muktaree Kat, from the districts in whichthey are produced: the latter fetches the lower price. Catha edulis_Forsk. _, Nat. Ord. Celastraceae, is figured in Dr. Lindley's VegetableKingdom, p. 588. (London, 1846). But there is a still more completerepresentation of the plant under the name of Catha Forskalii _Richard_, in a work published under the auspices of the French government, entitled, 'Voyage en Abyssinie execute pendant les annees 1839-43, par unecommission scientifique composee de MM. Theophile Lefebvre, Lieut. DuVaisseau, A. Petit et Martin-Dillon, docteurs medecins, naturalistes duMuseum, Vignaud dessinateur. ' The botanical portion of this work, by M. Achille Richard, is regarded either as a distinct publication under thetitle of Tentamen Florae Abyssinicae, or as a part of the Voyage enAbyssinie. M. Richard enters into some of the particulars relative to thesynonyms of the plant, from which it appears that Vahl referred Forskal'sgenus Catha to the Linnaean genus Celastrus, changing the name of Cathaedulis to Celastrus edulis. Hochstetter applied the name of Celastrusedulis to an Abyssinian species (Celastrus obscurus _Richard_), which heimagined identical with Forskal's Catha edulis, while of the real Cathaedulis _Forsk. _, he formed a new genus and species, under the name ofTrigonotheca serrata _Hochs_. Nat. Ord. Hippocrateaceae. I quote thefollowing references from the Tentamen Florae Abyssinicae, vol. I. P. 134. :'Catha Forskalii _Nob. _ Catha No. 4. Forsk. Loc. Cit, (Flor. AEgypt. Arab. P. 63. ) Trigonotheca serrata _Hochs. _ in pl. Schimp. Abyss. Sect. Ii, No. 649. Celastrus edulis _Vahl, Ecl. _ 1. 21. ' Although In the FloraAEgyptiaco-Arabica of Forskal no specific name is applied to the Catha atp. 63, it is enumerated as Catha edulis at p. 107. The reference toCelastrus edulis is not contained in the Eclogae Americanae of Vahl, but inthe author's Symbolae Botanicae (Hanulae, 1790, fol. ) pars i. P. 21. (DanielHanbury signed. )]

[19] This is probably the "River of Zayla, " alluded to by Ibn Said andothers. Like all similar features in the low country, it is a mere surfacedrain. 

[20] In the upper country I found a large variety growing wild in theFiumaras. The Bedouins named it Buamado, but ignored its virtues. 

[21] This ornament is called Musbgur. 

[22] A large brown bird with black legs, not unlike the domestic fowl. TheArabs call it Dijajat el Barr, (the wild hen): the Somal "digarin, " a wordalso applied to the Guinea fowl, which it resembles in its short strongfight and habit of running. Owing to the Bedouin prejudice against eatingbirds, it is found in large coveys all over the country. 

[23] It has been described by Salt and others. The Somal call it Sagaro, the Arabs Ghezalah: it is found throughout the land generally in pairs, and is fond of ravines under the hills, beds of torrents, and patches ofdesert vegetation. It is easily killed by a single pellet of shot strikingthe neck. The Somal catch it by a loop of strong twine hung round a gap ina circuit of thorn hedge, or they run it down on foot, an operationrequiring half a day on account of its fleetness, which enables it toescape the jackal and wild dog. When caught it utters piercing cries. SomeBedouins do not eat the flesh: generally, however, it is considered adelicacy, and the skulls and bones of these little animals lie strewedaround the kraals. 

[24] The Somal hold the destruction of the "Tuka" next in religious meritto that of the snake. They have a tradition that the crow, originallywhite, became black for his sins. When the Prophet and Abubekr wereconcealed in the cave, the pigeon hid there from their pursuers: the crow, on the contrary, sat screaming "ghar! ghar!" (the cave! the cave!) uponwhich Mohammed ordered him into eternal mourning, and ever to repeat thetraitorous words. 

There are several species of crows in this part of Africa. Besides thelarge-beaked bird of the Harar Hills, I found the common European variety, with, however, the breast feathers white tipped in small semicircles asfar as the abdomen. The little "king-crow" of India is common: its brightred eye and purplish plume render it a conspicuous object as it perchesupon the tall camel's back or clings to waving plants. 

[25] The Waraba or Durwa is, according to Mr. Blyth, the distinguishednaturalist, now Curator of the Asiatic Society's Museum at Calcutta, theCanis pictus seu venaticus (Lycaon pictus or Wilde Honde of the CapeBoers). It seems to be the Chien Sauvage or Cynhyene (Cynhyaena venatica)of the French traveller M. Delegorgue, who in his "Voyage dans l'AfriqueAustrale, " minutely and diffusely describes it. Mr. Gordon Cummingsupposes it to form the connecting link between the wolf and the hyaena. This animal swarms throughout the Somali country, prowls about the campsall night, dogs travellers, and devours every thing he can find, at timespulling down children and camels, and when violently pressed by hunger, men. The Somal declare the Waraba to be a hermaphrodite; so the ancientssupposed the hyaena to be of both sexes, an error arising from the peculiarappearance of an orifice situated near two glands which secrete anunctuous fluid. 

[26] Men wear for ornament round the neck a bright red leather thong, uponwhich are strung in front two square bits of true or imitation amber orhoney stone: this "Mekkawi, " however, is seldom seen amongst the Bedouins. The Audulli or woman's necklace is a more elaborate affair of amber, glassbeads, generally coloured, and coral: every matron who can afford it, possesses at least one of these ornaments. Both sexes carry round thenecks or hang above the right elbow, a talisman against danger anddisease, either in a silver box or more generally sewn up in a small caseof red morocco. The Bedouins are fond of attaching a tooth-stick to theneck thong. 

[27] Beads are useful in the Somali country as presents, and to pay fortrifling purchases: like tobacco they serve for small change. The kindpreferred by women and children is the "binnur, " large and small whiteporcelain: the others are the red, white, green, and spotted twistedbeads, round and oblong. Before entering a district the traveller shouldascertain what may be the especial variety. Some kind are greedily soughtfor in one place, and in another rejected with disdain. 

[28] The Somali word "Fal" properly means "to do;" "to bewitch, " is itssecondary sense. 

[29] The price of blood in the Somali country is the highest sanctioned byEl Islam. It must be remembered that amongst the pagan Arabs, the Korayah"diyat, " was twenty she-camels. Abd el Muttaleb, grandfather of Mohammed, sacrificed 100 animals to ransom the life of his son, forfeited by a rashvow, and from that time the greater became the legal number. The Somalusually demand 100 she-camels, or 300 sheep and a few cows; here, as inArabia, the sum is made up by all the near relations of the slayer; 30 ofthe animals may be aged, and 30 under age, but the rest must be sound andgood. Many tribes take less, --from strangers 100 sheep, a cow, and acamel;--but after the equivalent is paid, the murderer or one of his clan, contrary to the spirit of El Islam, is generally killed by the kindred ortribe of the slain. When blood is shed in the same tribe, the fullreparation, if accepted by the relatives, is always exacted; this servesthe purpose of preventing fratricidal strife, for in such a nation ofmurderers, only the Diyat prevents the taking of life. 

Blood money, however, is seldom accepted unless the murdered man has beenslain with a lawful weapon. Those who kill with the Dankaleh, a poisonousjuice rubbed upon meat, are always put to death by the members of theirown tribe. 

[30] The Abban or protector of the Somali country is the Mogasa of theGallas, the Akh of El Hejaz, the Ghafir of the Sinaitic Peninsula, and theRabia of Eastern Arabia. It must be observed, however, that the worddenotes the protege as well as the protector; In the latter sense it isthe polite address to a Somali, as Ya Abbaneh, O Protectress, would be tohis wife. 

The Abban acts at once as broker, escort, agent, and interpreter, and theinstitution may be considered the earliest form of transit dues. In allsales he receives a certain percentage, his food and lodging are providedat the expense of his employer, and he not unfrequently exacts smallpresents from his kindred. In return he is bound to arrange alldifferences, and even to fight the battles of his client against hisfellow-countrymen. Should the Abban be slain, his tribe is bound to takeup the cause and to make good the losses of their protege. El Taabanah, the office, being one of "name, " the eastern synonym for our honour, aswell as of lucre, causes frequent quarrels, which become exceedinglyrancorous. 

According to the laws of the country, the Abban is master of the life andproperty of his client. The traveller's success will depend mainly uponhis selection: if inferior in rank, the protector can neither forward nordefend him; if timid, he will impede advance; and if avaricious, he will, by means of his relatives, effectually stop the journey by absorbing themeans of prosecuting it. The best precaution against disappointment wouldbe the registering Abbans at Aden; every donkey-boy will offer himself asa protector, but only the chiefs of tribes should be provided withcertificates. During my last visit to Africa, I proposed that Englishofficers visiting the country should be provided with servants notprotectors, the former, however, to be paid like the latter; all thepeople recognised the propriety of the step. 

In the following pages occur manifold details concerning the complicatedsubject, El Taabanah. 

[31] Future travellers would do well either to send before them a trustyservant with orders to buy cattle; or, what would be better, though alittle more expensive, to take with them from Aden all the animalsrequired. 

[32] The Somal use as camel saddles the mats which compose their huts;these lying loose upon the animal's back, cause, by slipping backwards andforwards, the loss of many a precious hour, and in wet weather become halfa load. The more civilised make up of canvass or "gunny bags" stuffed withhay and provided with cross bars, a rude packsaddle, which is admirablycalculated to gall the animal's back. Future travellers would do well topurchase camel-saddles at Aden, where they are cheap and well made. 

[33] He received four cloths of Cutch canvass, and six others of coarseAmerican sheeting. At Zayla these articles are double the Aden value, which would be about thirteen rupees or twenty-six shillings; in the bushthe price is quadrupled. Before leaving us the Abban received at leastdouble the original hire. Besides small presents of cloth, dates, tobaccoand rice to his friends, he had six cubits of Sauda Wilayati or Englishindigo-dyed calico for women's fillets, and two of Sauda Kashshi, a Cutchimitation, a Shukkah or half Tobe for his daughter, and a sheep forhimself, together with a large bundle of tobacco. 

[34] When the pastures are exhausted and the monsoon sets in, the Bedouinsreturn to their cool mountains; like the Iliyat of Persia, they have theirregular Kishlakh and Yaylakh. 

[35] "Kaum" is the Arabic, "All" the Somali, term for these raids. 

[36] Amongst the old Egyptians the ostrich feather was the symbol oftruth. The Somal call it "Bal, " the Arabs "Rish;" it is universally usedhere as the sign and symbol of victory. Generally the white feather onlyis stuck in the hair; the Eesa are not particular in using black when theycan procure no other. All the clans wear it in the back hair, but each hasits own rules; some make it a standard decoration, others discard it afterthe first few days. The learned have an aversion to the custom, stigmatising it as pagan and idolatrous; the vulgar look upon it as thehighest mark of honor. 

[37] This is an ancient practice in Asia as well as in Africa. TheEgyptian temples show heaps of trophies placed before the monarchs as eyesor heads were presented in Persia. Thus in 1 Sam. Xviii. 25. , David bringsthe spoils of 200 Philistines, and shows them in full tale to the king, that he might be the king's son-in-law. Any work upon the subject ofAbyssinia (Bruce, book 7. Chap, 8. ), or the late Afghan war, will provethat the custom of mutilation, opposed as it is both to Christianity andEl Islam, is still practised in the case of hated enemies and infidels;and De Bey remarks of the Cape Kafirs, "victores caesis excidunt [Greek:_tu aidoui_], quae exsiccata regi afferunt. "

[38] When attacking cattle, the plundering party endeavour with shoots andnoise to disperse the herds, whilst the assailants huddle them together, and attempt to face the danger in parties. 

[39] For the cheapest I paid twenty-three, for the dearest twenty-sixdollars, besides a Riyal upon each, under the names of custom dues andcarriage. The Hajj had doubtless exaggerated the price, but all were goodanimals, and the traveller has no right to complain, except when he paysdear for a bad article. 

CHAP. IV. 

THE SOMAL, THEIR ORIGIN AND PECULIARITIES. 

Before leaving Zayla, I must not neglect a short description of itsinhabitants, and the remarkable Somal races around it. 

Eastern Africa, like Arabia, presents a population composed of threemarkedly distinct races. 

1. The Aborigines or Hamites, such as the Negro Sawahili, the Bushmen, Hottentots, and other races, having such physiological peculiarities asthe steatopyge, the tablier, and other developments described, in 1815, bythe great Cuvier. 

2. The almost pure Caucasian of the northern regions, west of Egypt: theirimmigration comes within the range of comparatively modern history. 

3. The half-castes in Eastern Africa are represented principally by theAbyssinians, Gallas, Somals, and Kafirs. The first-named people derivetheir descent from Menelek, son of Solomon by the Queen of Sheba: it isevident from their features and figures, --too well known to requiredescription, --that they are descended from Semitic as well as Hamiticprogenitors. [1] About the origin of the Gallas there is a diversity ofopinion. [2] Some declare them to be Meccan Arabs, who settled on thewestern coast of the Red Sea at a remote epoch: according to theAbyssinians, however, and there is little to find fault with in theirtheory, the Gallas are descended from a princess of their nation, who wasgiven in marriage to a slave from the country south of Gurague. She bareseven sons, who became mighty robbers and founders of tribes: theirprogenitors obtained the name of Gallas, after the river Gala, in Gurague, where they gained a decisive victory our their kinsmen the Abyssins. [3] Avariety of ethnologic and physiological reasons, --into which space andsubject prevent my entering, --argue the Kafirs of the Cape to be anorthern people, pushed southwards by some, to us, as yet, unknown cause. The origin of the Somal is a matter of modern history. 

"Barbarah" (Berberah) [4], according to the Kamus, is "a well known townin El Maghrib, and a race located between El Zanj--Zanzibar and theNegrotic coast--and El Habash [5]: they are descended from the Himyarchiefs Sanhaj ([Arabic]) and Sumamah ([Arabic]), and they arrived at theepoch of the conquest of Africa by the king Afrikus (Scipio Africanus?). "A few details upon the subject of mutilation and excision prove these tohave been the progenitors of the Somal [6], who are nothing but a slice ofthe great Galla nation Islamised and Semiticised by repeated immigrationsfrom Arabia. In the Kamus we also read that Samal ([Arabic]) is the nameof the father of a tribe, so called because he _thrust out_ ([Arabic], _samala_) his brother's eye. [7] The Shaykh Jami, a celebratedgenealogist, informed me that in A. H. 666 = A. D. 1266-7, the Sayyid Yusufel Baghdadi visited the port of Siyaro near Berberah, then occupied by aninfidel magician, who passed through mountains by the power of hisgramarye: the saint summoned to his aid Mohammed bin Tunis el Siddiki, ofBayt el Fakih in Arabia, and by their united prayers a hill closed uponthe pagan. Deformed by fable, the foundation of the tale is fact: thenumerous descendants of the holy men still pay an annual fine, by way ofblood-money to the family of the infidel chief. The last and mostimportant Arab immigration took place about fifteen generations or 450years ago, when the Sherif Ishak bin Ahmed [8] left his native countryHazramaut, and, with forty-four saints, before mentioned, landed onMakhar, --the windward coast extending from Karam Harbour to CapeGuardafui. At the town of Met, near Burnt Island, where his tomb stillexists, he became the father of all the gentle blood and the only certaindescent in the Somali country: by Magaden, a free woman, he had Gerhajis, Awal, and Arab; and by a slave or slaves, Jailah, Sambur, and Rambad. Hence the great clans, Habr Gerhajis and Awal, who prefer the matronymic--Habr signifying a mother, --since, according to their dictum, no man knowswho may be his sire. [9] These increased and multiplied by connection andaffiliation to such an extent that about 300 years ago they drove theirprogenitors, the Galla, from Berberah, and gradually encroached upon them, till they intrenched themselves in the Highlands of Harar. 

The old and pagan genealogies still known to the Somal, are Dirr, Aydur, Darud, and, according to some, Hawiyah. Dirr and Aydur, of whom nothing iscertainly known but the name [10], are the progenitors of the northernSomal, the Eesa, Gudabirsi, Ishak, and Bursuk tribes. Darud Jabarti [11]bin Ismail bin Akil (or Ukayl) is supposed by his descendants to have beena noble Arab from El Hejaz, who, obliged to flee his country, was wreckedon the north-east coast of Africa, where he married a daughter of theHawiyah tribe: rival races declare him to have been a Galla slave, who, stealing the Prophet's slippers [12], was dismissed with the words, Inna-_tarad_-na-hu (verily we have rejected him): hence his name Tarud([Arabic]) or Darud, the Rejected. [13] The etymological part of the storyis, doubtless, fabulous; it expresses, however, the popular belief thatthe founder of the eastward or windward tribes, now extending over theseaboard from Bunder Jedid to Ras Hafun, and southward from the sea to theWebbes [14], was a man of ignoble origin. The children of Darud are nowdivided into two great bodies: "Harti" is the family name of theDulbahanta, Ogadayn, Warsangali and Mijjarthayn, who call themselves sonsof Harti bin Kombo bin Kabl Ullah bin Darud: the other Darud tribes notincluded under that appellation are the Girhi, Berteri, Marayhan, andBahabr Ali. The Hawiyah are doubtless of ancient and pagan origin; theycall all Somal except themselves Hashiyah, and thus claim to be equivalentto the rest of the nation. Some attempt, as usual, to establish a holyorigin, deriving themselves like the Shaykhash from the Caliph Abubekr:the antiquity, and consequently the Pagan origin of the Hawiyah are provedby its present widely scattered state; it is a powerful tribe in theMijjarthayn country, and yet is found in the hills of Harar. 

The Somal, therefore, by their own traditions, as well as their stronglymarked physical peculiarities, their customs, and their geographicalposition, may be determined to be a half-caste tribe, an offshoot of thegreat Galla race, approximated, like the originally Negro-Egyptian, to theCaucasian type by a steady influx of pure Asiatic blood. 

In personal appearance the race is not unprepossessing. The crinal hair ishard and wiry, growing, like that of a half-caste West Indian, in stiffringlets which sprout in tufts from the scalp, and, attaining a moderatelength, which they rarely surpass, bang down. A few elders, savans, andthe wealthy, who can afford the luxury of a turban, shave the head. Moregenerally, each filament is duly picked out with the comb or a woodenscratcher like a knitting-needle, and the mass made to resemble a child's"pudding, " an old bob-wig, a mop, a counsellor's peruke, or an old-fashioned coachman's wig, --there are a hundred ways of dressing the head. The Bedouins, true specimens of the "greasy African race, " wear locksdripping with rancid butter, and accuse their citizen brethren of beingmore like birds than men. The colouring matter of the hair, naturally abluish-black, is removed by a mixture of quicklime and water, or in thedesert by a _lessive_ of ashes [15]: this makes it a dull yellowish-white, which is converted into red permanently by henna, temporarily by ochreishearth kneaded with water. The ridiculous Somali peruke of crimsonedsheepskin, --almost as barbarous an article as the Welsh, --is apparently aforeign invention: I rarely saw one in the low country, although the hilltribes about Harar sometimes wear a black or white "scratch-wig. " The headis rather long than round, and generally of the amiable variety, it isgracefully put on the shoulders, belongs equally to Africa and Arabia, andwould be exceedingly weak but for the beauty of the brow. As far as themouth, the face, with the exception of high cheek-bones, is good; thecontour of the forehead ennobles it; the eyes are large and well-formed, and the upper features are frequently handsome and expressive. The jaw, however, is almost invariably prognathous and African; the broad, turned-out lips betray approximation to the Negro; and the chin projects to thedetriment of the facial angle. The beard is represented by a few tufts; itis rare to see anything equal to even the Arab development: the long andample eyebrows admired by the people are uncommon, and the mustachios areshort and thin, often twisted outwards in two dwarf curls. The mouth iscoarse as well as thick-lipped; the teeth rarely project as in the Negro, but they are not good; the habit of perpetually chewing coarse Surattobacco stains them [16], the gums become black and mottled, and the useof ashes with the quid discolours the lips. The skin, amongst the tribesinhabiting the hot regions, is smooth, black, and glossy; as the altitudeincreases it becomes lighter, and about Harar it is generally of a _cafeau lait_ colour. The Bedouins are fond of raising beauty marks in theshape of ghastly seams, and the thickness of the epidermis favours thesize of these _stigmates_. The male figure is tall and somewhat ungainly. In only one instance I observed an approach to the steatopyge, making theshape to resemble the letter S; but the shoulders are high, the trunk isstraight, the thighs fall off, the shin bones bow slightly forwards, andthe feet, like the hands, are coarse, large, and flat. Yet with theirhair, of a light straw colour, decked with the light waving feather, andtheir coal-black complexions set off by that most graceful of garments theclean white Tobe [17], the contrasts are decidedly effective. 

In mind the Somal are peculiar as in body. They are a people of mostsusceptible character, and withal uncommonly hard to please. They dislikethe Arabs, fear and abhor the Turks, have a horror of Franks, and despiseall other Asiatics who with them come under the general name of Hindi(Indians). The latter are abused on all occasions for cowardice, and awant of generosity, which has given rise to the following piquant epigram:

 "Ask not from the Hindi thy want: Impossible that the Hindi can be generous! Had there been one liberal man in El Hind, Allah had raised up a prophet in El Hind!"

They have all the levity and instability of the Negro character; light-minded as the Abyssinians, --described by Gobat as constant in nothing butinconstancy, --soft, merry, and affectionate souls, they pass without anyapparent transition into a state of fury, when they are capable ofterrible atrocities. At Aden they appear happier than in their nativecountry. There I have often seen a man clapping his hands and dancing, childlike, alone to relieve the exuberance of his spirits: here theybecome, as the Mongols and other pastoral people, a melancholy race, whowill sit for hours upon a bank gazing at the moon, or croning some oldditty under the trees. This state is doubtless increased by the perpetualpresence of danger and the uncertainty of life, which make them think ofother things but dancing and singing. Much learning seems to make themmad; like the half-crazy Fakihs of the Sahara in Northern Africa, theWidad, or priest, is generally unfitted for the affairs of this world, andthe Hafiz or Koran-reciter, is almost idiotic. As regards courage, theyare no exception to the generality of savage races. They have none of therecklessness standing in lieu of creed which characterises the civilisedman. In their great battles a score is considered a heavy loss; usuallythey will run after the fall of half a dozen: amongst a Kraal full ofbraves who boast a hundred murders, not a single maimed or wounded manwill be seen, whereas in an Arabian camp half the male population willbear the marks of lead and steel. The bravest will shirk fighting if hehas forgotten his shield: the sight of a lion and the sound of a gunelicit screams of terror, and their Kaum or forays much resemble the styleof tactics rendered obsolete by the Great Turenne, when the tactician'schief aim was not to fall in with his enemy. Yet they are by no meansdeficient in the wily valour of wild men: two or three will murder asleeper bravely enough; and when the passions of rival tribes, betweenwhom there has been a blood feud for ages, are violently excited, theywill use with asperity the dagger and spear. Their massacres are fearful. In February, 1847, a small sept, the Ayyal Tunis, being expelled fromBerberah, settled at the roadstead of Bulhar, where a few merchants, principally Indian and Arab, joined them. The men were in the habit ofleaving their women and children, sick and aged, at the encampment inland, whilst, descending to the beach, they carried on their trade. One day, asthey were thus employed, unsuspicious of danger, a foraging party of about2500 Eesas attacked the camp: men, women, and children wereindiscriminately put to the spear, and the plunderers returned to theirvillages in safety, laden with an immense amount of booty. At present, aman armed with a revolver would be a terror to the country; the day, however, will come when the matchlock will supersede the assegai, and thenthe harmless spearman in his strong mountains will become, like the Arab, a formidable foe. Travelling among the Bedouins, I found them kind andhospitable. A pinch of snuff or a handful of tobacco sufficed to win everyheart, and a few yards of coarse cotton cloth supplied all our wants, Iwas petted like a child, forced to drink milk and to eat mutton; girlswere offered to me in marriage; the people begged me to settle amongstthem, to head their predatory expeditions, free them from lions, and killtheir elephants; and often a man has exclaimed in pitying accents, "Whathath brought thee, delicate as thou art, to sit with us on the cowhide inthis cold under a tree?" Of course they were beggars, princes and paupers, lairds and loons, being all equally unfortunate; the Arabs have named thecountry Bilad Wa Issi, --the "Land of Give me Something;"--but their wantswere easily satisfied, and the open hand always made a friend. 

The Somal hold mainly to the Shafei school of El Islam: their principalpeculiarity is that of not reciting prayers over the dead even in thetowns. The marriage ceremony is simple: the price of the bride and thefeast being duly arranged, the formula is recited by some priest orpilgrim. I have often been requested to officiate on these occasions, andthe End of Time has done it by irreverently reciting the Fatihah over thehappy pair. [18] The Somal, as usual amongst the heterogeneous massamalgamated by El Islam, have a diversity of superstitions attesting theirPagan origin. Such for instance are their oaths by stones, their reverenceof cairns and holy trees, and their ordeals of fire and water, the Bolungoof Western Africa. A man accused of murder or theft walks down a trenchfull of live charcoal and about a spear's length, or he draws out of theflames a smith's anvil heated to redness: some prefer picking four or fivecowries from a large pot full of boiling water. The member used is at oncerolled up in the intestines of a sheep and not inspected for a whole day. They have traditionary seers called Tawuli, like the Greegree-men ofWestern Africa, who, by inspecting the fat and bones of slaughteredcattle, "do medicine, " predict rains, battles, and diseases of animals. This class is of both sexes: they never pray or bathe, and are thereforeconsidered always impure; thus, being feared, they are greatly respectedby the vulgar. Their predictions are delivered in a rude rhyme, often putfor importance into the mouth of some deceased seer. During the threemonths called Rajalo [19] the Koran is not read over graves, and nomarriage ever takes place. The reason of this peculiarity is stated to beimitation of their ancestor Ishak, who happened not to contract amatrimonial alliance at such epoch: it is, however, a manifest remnant ofthe Pagan's auspicious and inauspicious months. Thus they sacrifice she-camels in the month Sabuh, and keep holy with feasts and bonfires theDubshid or New Year's Day. [20] At certain unlucky periods when the moonis in ill-omened Asterisms those who die are placed in bundles of mattingupon a tree, the idea being that if buried a loss would result to thetribe. [21]

Though superstitious, the Somal are not bigoted like the Arabs, with theexception of those who, wishing to become learned, visit Yemen or ElHejaz, and catch the complaint. Nominal Mohammedans, El Islam hangs solightly upon them, that apparently they care little for making it bindingupon others. 

The Somali language is no longer unknown to Europe. It is strange that adialect which has no written character should so abound in poetry andeloquence. There are thousands of songs, some local, others general, uponall conceivable subjects, such as camel loading, drawing water, andelephant hunting; every man of education knows a variety of them. Therhyme is imperfect, being generally formed by the syllable "ay"(pronounced as in our word "hay"), which gives the verse a monotonousregularity; but, assisted by a tolerably regular alliteration and cadence, it can never be mistaken for prose, even without the song which invariablyaccompanies it. The country teems with "poets, poetasters, poetitos, andpoetaccios:" every man has his recognised position in literature asaccurately defined as though he had been reviewed in a century ofmagazines, --the fine ear of this people [22] causing them to take thegreatest pleasure in harmonious sounds and poetical expressions, whereas afalse quantity or a prosaic phrase excite their violent indignation. Manyof these compositions are so idiomatic that Arabs settled for yearsamongst the Somal cannot understand them, though perfectly acquainted withthe conversational style. Every chief in the country must have a panegyricto be sung by his clan, and the great patronise light literature bykeeping a poet. The amatory is of course the favourite theme: sometimes itappears in dialogue, the rudest form, we are told, of the Drama. Thesubjects are frequently pastoral: the lover for instance invites hismistress to walk with him towards the well in Lahelo, the Arcadia of theland; he compares her legs to the tall straight Libi tree, and imprecatesthe direst curses on her head if she refuse to drink with him the milk ofhis favourite camel. There are a few celebrated ethical compositions, inwhich the father lavishes upon his son all the treasures of Somali goodadvice, long as the somniferous sermons of Mentor to the insipid son ofUlysses. Sometimes a black Tyrtaeus breaks into a wild lament for the lossof warriors or territory; he taunts the clan with cowardice, reminds themof their slain kindred, better men than themselves, whose spirits cannotrest unavenged in their gory graves, and urges a furious onslaught uponthe exulting victor. 

And now, dear L. , I will attempt to gratify your just curiosity concerning_the_ sex in Eastern Africa. 

The Somali matron is distinguished--externally--from the maiden by afillet of blue network or indigo-dyed cotton, which, covering the head andcontaining the hair, hangs down to the neck. Virgins wear their lockslong, parted in the middle, and plaited in a multitude of hard thinpigtails: on certain festivals they twine flowers and plaster the headlike Kafir women with a red ochre, --the _coiffure_ has the merit oforiginality. With massive rounded features, large flat craniums, long bigeyes, broad brows, heavy chins, rich brown complexions, and round faces, they greatly resemble the stony beauties of Egypt--the models of the landere Persia, Greece, and Rome reformed the profile and bleached the skin. They are of the Venus Kallipyga order of beauty: the feature is scarcelyever seen amongst young girls, but after the first child it becomesremarkable to a stranger. The Arabs have not failed to make it a matter ofjibe. 

 "'Tis a wonderful fact that your hips swell Like boiled rice or a skin blown out, "

sings a satirical Yemeni: the Somal retort by comparing the lank haunchesof their neighbours to those of tadpoles or young frogs. One of theirpeculiar charms is a soft, low, and plaintive voice, derived from theirAfrican progenitors. Always an excellent thing in woman, here it has anundefinable charm. I have often lain awake for hours listening to theconversation of the Bedouin girls, whose accents sounded in my ears ratherlike music than mere utterance. 

In muscular strength and endurance the women of the Somal are far superiorto their lords: at home they are engaged all day in domestic affairs, andtending the cattle; on journeys their manifold duties are to load anddrive the camels, to look after the ropes, and, if necessary, to makethem; to pitch the hut, to bring water and firewood, and to cook. Bothsexes are equally temperate from necessity; the mead and the millet-beer, so common among the Abyssinians and the Danakil, are entirely unknown tothe Somal of the plains. As regards their morals, I regret to say that thetraveller does not find them in the golden state which Teetotal doctrineslead him to expect. After much wandering, we are almost tempted to believethe bad doctrine that morality is a matter of geography; that nations andraces have, like individuals, a pet vice, and that by restraining one youonly exasperate another. As a general rule Somali women prefer_amourettes_ with strangers, following the well-known Arab proverb, "Thenew comer filleth the eye. " In cases of scandal, the woman's triberevenges its honour upon the man. Should a wife disappear with a fellow-clansman, and her husband accord divorce, no penal measures are taken, butshe suffers in reputation, and her female friends do not spare her. Generally, the Somali women are of cold temperament, the result ofartificial as well as natural causes: like the Kafirs, they are veryprolific, but peculiarly bad mothers, neither loved nor respected by theirchildren. The fair sex lasts longer in Eastern Africa than in India andArabia: at thirty, however, charms are on the wane, and when old age comeson they are no exceptions to the hideous decrepitude of the East. 

The Somal, when they can afford it, marry between the ages of fifteen andtwenty. Connections between tribes are common, and entitle the stranger toimmunity from the blood-feud: men of family refuse, however, to allythemselves with the servile castes. Contrary to the Arab custom, none ofthese people will marry cousins; at the same time a man will give hisdaughter to his uncle, and take to wife, like the Jews and Gallas, abrother's relict. Some clans, the Habr Yunis for instance, refuse maidensof the same or even of a consanguineous family. This is probably apolitical device to preserve nationality and provide against a commonenemy. The bride, as usual in the East, is rarely consulted, but frequent_tete a tetes_ at the well and in the bush when tending cattle effectuallyobviate this inconvenience: her relatives settle the marriage portion, which varies from a cloth and a bead necklace to fifty sheep or thirtydollars, and dowries are unknown. In the towns marriage ceremonies arecelebrated with feasting and music. On first entering the nuptial hut, thebridegroom draws forth his horsewhip and inflicts memorable chastisementupon the fair person of his bride, with the view of taming any lurkingpropensity to shrewishness. [23] This is carrying out with a will the Arabproverb, "The slave girl from her capture, the wife from her wedding. "

During the space of a week the spouse remains with his espoused, scarcelyever venturing out of the hut; his friends avoid him, and no lesser eventthan a plundering party or dollars to gain, would justify any intrusion. If the correctness of the wife be doubted, the husband on the morningafter marriage digs a hole before his door and veils it with matting, orhe rends the skirt of his Tobe, or he tears open some new hut-covering:this disgraces the woman's family. Polygamy is indispensable in a countrywhere children are the principal wealth. [24] The chiefs, arrived atmanhood, immediately marry four wives: they divorce the old andunfruitful, and, as amongst the Kafirs, allow themselves an unlimitednumber in peculiar cases, especially when many of the sons have fallen. Daughters, as usual in Oriental countries, do not "count" as part of thefamily: they are, however, utilised by the father, who disposes of them tothose who can increase his wealth and importance. Divorce is exceedinglycommon, for the men are liable to sudden fits of disgust. There is littleceremony in contracting marriage with any but maidens. I have heard a manpropose after half an hour's acquaintance, and the fair one's reply wasgenerally the question direct concerning "settlements. " Old men frequentlymarry young girls, but then the portion is high and the _menage a trois_common. 

The Somal know none of the exaggerated and chivalrous ideas by whichpassion becomes refined affection amongst the Arab Bedouins and the sonsof civilisation, nor did I ever hear of an African abandoning the spearand the sex to become a Darwaysh. Their "Hudhudu, " however, reminds thetraveller of the Abyssinian "eye-love, " the Afghan's "Namzad-bazi, " andthe Semite's "Ishkuzri, " which for want of a better expression wetranslate "Platonic love. " [25] This meeting of the sexes, however, isallowed in Africa by male relatives; in Arabia and Central Asia itprovokes their direst indignation. Curious to say, throughout the Somalicountry, kissing is entirely unknown. 

Children are carried on their mothers' backs or laid sprawling upon theground for the first two years [26]: they are circumcised at the age ofseven or eight, provided with a small spear, and allowed to run aboutnaked till the age of puberty. They learn by conversation, not books, eatas much as they can beg, borrow and steal, and grow up healthy, strong, and well proportioned according to their race. 

As in El Islam generally, so here, a man cannot make a will. The propertyof the deceased is divided amongst his children, --the daughters receivinga small portion, if any of it. When a man dies without issue, his goodsand chattels are seized upon by his nearest male relatives; one of themgenerally marries the widow, or she is sent back to her family. Relicts, as a rule, receive no legacies. 

You will have remarked, dear L. , that the people of Zayla are by no meansindustrious. They depend for support upon the Desert: the Bedouin becomesthe Nazil or guest of the townsman, and he is bound to receive a littletobacco, a few beads, a bit of coarse cotton cloth, or, on greatoccasions, a penny looking-glass and a cheap German razor, in return forhis slaves, ivories, hides, gums, milk, and grain. Any violation of thetie is severely punished by the Governor, and it can be dissolved only bythe formula of triple divorce: of course the wild men are hopelesslycheated [27], and their citizen brethren live in plenty and indolence. After the early breakfast, the male portion of the community leave theirhouses on business, that is to say, to chat, visit, and _flaner_ about thestreets and mosques. [28] They return to dinner and the siesta, afterwhich they issue forth again, and do not come home till night. Friday isalways an idle day, festivals are frequent, and there is no work duringweddings and mournings. The women begin after dawn to plait mats andsuperintend the slaves, who are sprinkling the house with water, grindinggrain for breakfast, cooking, and breaking up firewood: to judge, however, from the amount of chatting and laughter, there appears to be far lesswork than play. 

In these small places it is easy to observe the mechanism of a governmentwhich, _en grand_, becomes that of Delhi, Teheran, and Constantinople. TheGovernor farms the place from the Porte: he may do what he pleases as longas he pays his rent with punctuality and provides presents and _douceurs_for the Pasha of Mocha. He punishes the petty offences of theft, quarrels, and arson by fines, the bastinado, the stocks, or confinement in an Arishor thatch-hut: the latter is a severe penalty, as the prisoner mustprovide himself with food. In cases of murder, he either refers to Mochaor he carries out the Kisas--lex talionis--by delivering the slayer to therelatives of the slain. The Kazi has the administration of the Shariat orreligious law: he cannot, however, pronounce sentence without theGovernor's permission; and generally his powers are confined to questionsof divorce, alimony, manumission, the wound-mulct, and similar cases whichcome within Koranic jurisdiction. Thus the religious code is ancillary andoften opposed to "El Jabr, "--"the tyranny, "--the popular designation ofwhat we call Civil Law. [29] Yet is El Jabr, despite its name, generallypreferred by the worldly wise. The Governor contents himself with amoderate bribe, the Kazi is insatiable: the former may possibly allow youto escape unplundered, the latter assuredly will not. This I believe to bethe history of religious jurisdiction in most parts of the world. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] Eusebius declares that the Abyssinians migrated from Asia to Africawhilst the Hebrews were in Egypt (circ. A. M. 2345); and Syncellus placesthe event about the age of the Judges. 

[2] Moslems, ever fond of philological fable, thus derive the word Galla. When Ullabu, the chief, was summoned by Mohammed to Islamise, themessenger returned to report that "he said _no_, "--Kal la pronounced Galla, --which impious refusal, said the Prophet, should from that time becomethe name of the race. 

[3] Others have derived them from Metcha, Karaiyo, and Tulema, three sonsof an AEthiopian Emperor by a female slave. They have, according to sometravellers, a prophecy that one day they will march to the east and north, and conquer the inheritance of their Jewish ancestors. Mr. Johnstonasserts that the word Galla is "merely another form of _Calla_, which inthe ancient Persian, Sanscrit, Celtic, and their modern derivativelanguages, under modified, but not changed terms, is expressive ofblackness. " The Gallas, however, are not a black people. 

[4] The Aden stone has been supposed to name the "Berbers, " who must havebeen Gallas from the vicinity of Berberah. A certain amount of doubt stillhangs on the interpretation: the Rev. Mr. Forster and Dr. Bird being theprincipal contrasts. 

 _Rev. Mr. Forster. _ _Dr. Bird_

 "We assailed with cries of "He, the Syrian philosopher hatred and rage the Abyssinians in Abadan, Bishop of and Berbers. Cape Aden, who inscribed this in the desert, blesses the "We rode forth wrathfully institution of the faith. " against this refuse of mankind. "

[5] This word is generally translated Abyssinia; oriental geographers, however, use it in a more extended sense. The Turks have held possessionsin "Habash, " in Abyssinia never. 

[6] The same words are repeated in the Infak el Maysur fl Tarikh bilad elTakrur (Appendix to Denham and Clapperton's Travels, No. Xii. ), againconfounding the Berbers and the Somal. Afrikus, according to that author, was a king of Yemen who expelled the Berbers from Syria!

[7] The learned Somal invariably spell their national name with an initialSin, and disregard the derivation from Saumal ([Arabic]), which wouldallude to the hardihood of the wild people. An intelligent moderntraveller derives "Somali" from the Abyssinian "Soumahe" or heathens, andasserts that it corresponds with the Arabic word Kafir or unbeliever, thename by which Edrisi, the Arabian geographer, knew and described theinhabitants of the Affah (Afar) coast, to the east of the Straits of Babel Mandeb. Such derivation is, however, unadvisable. 

[8] According to others he was the son of Abdullah. The writtengenealogies of the Somal were, it is said, stolen by the Sherifs of Yemen, who feared to leave with the wild people documents that prove the nobilityof their descent. 

[9] The salient doubt suggested by this genealogy is the barbarous natureof the names. A noble Arab would not call his children Gerhajis, Awal, andRambad. 

[10] Lieut. Cruttenden applies the term Edoor (Aydur) to the descendantsof Ishak, the children of Gerhajis, Awal, and Jailah. His informants andmine differ, therefore, _toto coelo_. According to some, Dirr was thefather of Aydur; others make Dirr (it has been written Tir and Durr) tohave been the name of the Galla family into which Shaykh Ishak married. 

[11] Some travellers make Jabarti or Ghiberti to signify "slaves" from theAbyssinian Guebra; others "Strong in the Faith" (El Islam). Bruce appliesit to the Moslems of Abyssinia: it is still used, though rarely, by theSomal, who in these times generally designate by it the Sawahili or NegroMoslems. 

[12] The same scandalous story is told of the venerable patron saint ofAden, the Sherif Haydrus. 

[13] Darud bin Ismail's tomb is near the Yubbay Tug in the windwardmountains; an account of it will be found in Lieut. Speke's diary. 

[14] The two rivers Shebayli and Juba. 

[15] Curious to any this mixture does not destroy the hair; it would soonrender a European bald. Some of the Somal have applied it to their beards;the result has been the breaking and falling off of the filaments. 

[16] Few Somal except the citizens smoke, on account of the expense, all, however, use the Takhzinah or quid. 

[17] The best description of the dress is that of Fenelon: "Leurs habitssont aises a faire, car en ce doux climat on ne porte qu'une pieced'etoffe fine et legere, qui n'est point taillee, et que chacun met alongs plis autour de son corps pour la modestie; lui donnant la formequ'il veut. "

[18] Equivalent to reading out the Church Catechism at an English wedding. 

[19] Certain months of the lunar year. In 1854, the third Rajalo, corresponding with Rabia the Second, began on the 21st of December. 

[20] The word literally means, "lighting of fire. " It corresponds with theNayruz of Yemen, a palpable derivation, as the word itself proves, fromthe old Guebre conquerors. In Arabia New Year's Day is called Ras elSanah, and is not celebrated by any peculiar solemnities. The ancientreligion of the Afar coast was Sabaeism, probably derived from the Berbersor shepherds, --according to Bruce the first faith of the East, and theonly religion of Eastern Africa. The Somal still retain a tradition thatthe "Furs, " or ancient Guebres, once ruled the land. 

[21] Their names also are generally derived from their Pagan ancestors: alist of the most common may be interesting to ethnologists. Men are calledRirash, Igah, Beuh, Fahi, Samattar, Farih, Madar, Raghe, Dubayr, Irik, Diddar, Awalah, and Alyan. Women's names are Aybla, Ayyo, Aurala, Ambar, Zahabo, Ashkaro, Alka, Asoba, Gelo, Gobe, Mayran and Samaweda. 

[22] It is proved by the facility with which they pick up languages, Western us well as Eastern, by mere ear and memory. 

[23] So the old Muscovites, we are told, always began married life with asound flogging. 

[24] I would not advise polygamy amongst highly civilised races, where thesexes are nearly equal, and where reproduction becomes a minor duty. Monogamy is the growth of civilisation: a plurality of wives is thenatural condition of man in thinly populated countries, where he who hasthe largest family is the greatest benefactor of his kind. 

[25] The old French term "la petite oie" explains it better. Some trace ofthe custom may be found in the Kafir's Slambuka or Schlabonka, for adescription of which I must refer to the traveller Delegorgue. 

[26] The Somal ignore the Kafir custom during lactation. 

[27] The citizens have learned the Asiatic art of bargaining under acloth. Both parties sit opposite each other, holding hands: if the littlefinger for instance be clasped, it means 6, 60, or 600 dollars, accordingto the value of the article for sale; if the ring finger, 7, 70, or 700, and so on. 

[28] So, according to M. Krapf, the Suaheli of Eastern Africa wastes hismorning hours in running from house to house, to his friends or superiors, _ku amkia_ (as he calls it), to make his morning salutations. A worse thanAsiatic idleness is the curse of this part of the world. 

[29] Diwan el Jabr, for instance, is a civil court, opposed to theMahkamah or the Kazi's tribunal. 

CHAP. V. 

FROM ZAYLA TO THE HILLS. 

Two routes connect Zayla with Harar; the south-western or direct linenumbers ten long or twenty short stages [1]: the first eight through theEesa country, and the last two among the Nole Gallas, who own the rule of"Waday, " a Makad or chief of Christian persuasion. The Hajj objected tothis way, on account of his recent blood-feud with the Rer Guleni. Hepreferred for me the more winding road which passes south, along thecoast, through the Eesa Bedouins dependent upon Zayla, to the nearesthills, and thence strikes south-westwards among the Gudabirsi and GirhiSomal, who extend within sight of Harar. I cannot but suspect that inselecting this route the good Sharmarkay served another purpose besides mysafety. Petty feuds between the chiefs had long "closed the path, " andperhaps the Somal were not unwilling that British cloth and tobacco shouldre-open it. 

Early in the morning of the 27th of November, 1854, the mules and all theparaphernalia of travel stood ready at the door. The five camels wereforced to kneel, growling angrily the while, by repeated jerks at thehalter: their forelegs were duly tied or stood upon till they had shiftedthemselves into a comfortable position, and their noses were held down bythe bystanders whenever, grasshopper-like, they attempted to spring up. Whilst spreading the saddle-mats, our women, to charm away remembrance ofchafed hump and bruised sides, sang with vigor the "Song of Travel":

 "0 caravan-men, we deceive ye not, we have laden the camels! Old women on the journey are kenned by their sleeping I (0 camel) can'st sniff the cock-boat and the sea? Allah guard thee from the Mikahil and their Midgans!" [2]

As they arose from squat it was always necessary to adjust their littlemountains of small packages by violently "heaving up" one side, --anoperation never failing to elicit a vicious grunt, a curve of the neck, and an attempt to bite. One camel was especially savage; it is said thaton his return to Zayla, he broke a Bedouin girl's neck. Another, adiminutive but hardy little brute of Dankali breed, conducted himself souproariously that he at once obtained the name of El Harami, or theRuffian. 

About 3 P. M. , accompanied by the Hajj, his amiable son Mohammed, and aparty of Arab matchlockmen, who escorted me as a token of especialrespect, I issued from the Ashurbara Gate, through the usual staringcrowds, and took the way of the wilderness. After half a mile's march, weexchanged affectionate adieus, received much prudent advice about keepingwatch and ward at night, recited the Fatihah with upraised palms, and withmany promises to write frequently and to meet soon, shook hands andparted. The soldiers gave me a last volley, to which I replied with the"Father of Six. "

You see, dear L. , how travelling maketh man _banal_. It is the naturalconsequence of being forced to find, in every corner where Fate drops youfor a month, a "friend of the soul, " and a "moon-faced beauty. " WithOrientals generally, you _must_ be on extreme terms, as in Hibernia, either an angel of light or, that failing, a goblin damned. In East Africaespecially, English phlegm, shyness, or pride, will bar every heart andraise every hand against you [3], whereas what M. Rochet calls "a certain_rondeur_ of manner" is a specific for winning affection. You should walkup to your man, clasp his fist, pat his back, speak some unintelligiblewords to him, --if, as is the plan of prudence, you ignore the language, --laugh a loud guffaw, sit by his side, and begin pipes and coffee. He thenproceeds to utilise you, to beg in one country for your interest, and inanother for your tobacco. You gently but decidedly thrust that subject outof the way, and choose what is most interesting to yourself. As might beexpected, he will at times revert to his own concerns; your superiorobstinacy will oppose effectual passive resistance to all such efforts; bydegrees the episodes diminish in frequency and duration; at last theycease altogether. The man is now your own. 

You will bear in mind, if you please, that I am a Moslem merchant, acharacter not to be confounded with the notable individuals seen on'Change. Mercator in the East is a compound of tradesman, divine, and T. G. Usually of gentle birth, he is everywhere welcomed and respected; andhe bears in his mind and manner that, if Allah please, he may become primeminister a month after he has sold you a yard of cloth. Commerce appearsto be an accident, not an essential, with him; yet he is by no meansdeficient in acumen. He is a grave and reverend signior, with rosary inhand and Koran on lip, is generally a pilgrim, talks at dreary lengthabout Holy Places, writes a pretty hand, has read and can recite muchpoetry, is master of his religion, demeans himself with respectability, isperfect in all points of ceremony and politeness, and feels equally athome whether sultan or slave sit upon his counter. He has a wife andchildren in his own country, where he intends to spend the remnant of hisdays; but "the world is uncertain"--"Fate descends, and man's eye seeth itnot"--"the earth is a charnel house"; briefly, his many wise old saws givehim a kind of theoretical consciousness that his bones may moulder inother places but his father-land. 

To describe my little caravan. Foremost struts Raghe, our Eesa guide, inall the bravery of Abbanship. He is bareheaded and clothed in Tobe andslippers: a long, heavy, horn-hilted dagger is strapped round his waist, outside his dress; in his right hand he grasps a ponderous wire-boundspear, which he uses as a staff, and the left forearm supports a roundtarge of battered hide. Being a man of education, he bears on one shouldera Musalla or prayer carpet of tanned leather, the article used throughoutthe Somali country; slung over the other is a Wesi or wicker bottlecontaining water for religious ablution. He is accompanied by some men whocarry a little stock of town goods and drive a camel colt, which by the bythey manage to lose before midnight. 

My other attendants must now be introduced to you, as they are to be forthe next two months companions of our journey. 

First in the list are the fair Samaweda Yusuf, and Aybla Farih [4], buxomdames about thirty years old, who presently secured the classicalnicknames of Shehrazade, and Deenarzade. They look each like three averagewomen rolled into one, and emphatically belong to that race for which thearticle of feminine attire called, I believe, a "bussle" would be quitesuperfluous. Wonderful, truly, is their endurance of fatigue! During themarch they carry pipe and tobacco, lead and flog the camels, adjust theburdens, and will never be induced to ride, in sickness or in health. Atthe halt they unload the cattle, dispose the parcels in a semicircle, pitch over them the Gurgi or mat tent, cook our food, boil tea and coffee, and make themselves generally useful. They bivouack outside our abode, modesty not permitting the sexes to mingle, and in the severest cold wearno clothing but a head fillet and an old Tobe. They have curious softvoices, which contrast agreeably with the harsh organs of the males. Atfirst they were ashamed to see me; but that feeling soon wore off, andpresently they enlivened the way with pleasantries far more naive thanrefined. To relieve their greatest fatigue, nothing seems necessary butthe "Jogsi:" [5] they lie at full length, prone, stand upon each other'sbacks trampling and kneading with the toes, and rise like giants muchrefreshed. Always attendant upon these dames is Yusuf, a Zayla lad who, being one-eyed, was pitilessly named by my companions the "Kalendar;" heprays frequently, is strict in his morals, and has conceived, like Mrs. Brownrigg, so exalted an idea of discipline, that, but for our influence, he certainly would have beaten the two female 'prentices to death. Theyhate him therefore, and he knows it. 

Immediately behind Raghe and his party walk Shehrazade and Deenarzade, theformer leading the head camel, the latter using my chibouque stick as astaff. She has been at Aden, and sorely suspects me; her little black eyesnever meet mine; and frequently, with affected confusion, she turns hersable cheek the clean contrary way. Strung together by their tails, andsoundly beaten when disposed to lag, the five camels pace steadily alongunder their burdens, --bales of Wilayati or American sheeting, Duwwarah orCutch canvass, with indigo-dyed stuff slung along the animals' sides, andneatly sewn up in a case of matting to keep off dust and rain, --a cow'shide, which serves as a couch, covering the whole. They carry a load of"Mushakkar" (bad Mocha dates) for the Somal, with a parcel of betterquality for ourselves, and a half hundredweight of coarse Surat tobacco[6]; besides which we have a box of beads, and another of trinkets, mosaic-gold earrings, necklaces, watches, and similar nick-nacks. Ourprivate provisions are represented by about 300 lbs. Of rice, --here thetraveller's staff of life, --a large pot full of "Kawurmeh" [7], dates, salt [8], clarified butter, tea, coffee, sugar, a box of biscuits in caseof famine, "Halwa" or Arab sweetmeats to be used when driving hardbargains, and a little turmeric for seasoning. A simple _batterie decuisine_, and sundry skins full of potable water [9], dangle from chancerope-ends; and last, but not the least important, is a heavy box [10] ofammunition sufficient for a three months' sporting tour. [11] In the rearof the caravan trudges a Bedouin woman driving a donkey, --the proper"tail" in these regions, where camels start if followed by a horse ormule. An ill-fated sheep, a parting present from the Hajj, races andfrisks about the Cafilah. It became so tame that the Somal received anorder not to "cut" it; one day, however, I found myself dining, and thatpet lamb was the _menu_. 

By the side of the camels ride my three attendants, the pink of Somalifashion. Their frizzled wigs are radiant with grease; their Tobes aresplendidly white, with borders dazzlingly red; their new shields arecovered with canvass cloth; and their two spears, poised over the rightshoulder, are freshly scraped, oiled, blackened, and polished. They haveadded my spare rifle, and guns to the camel-load; such weapons are wellenough at Aden, in Somali-land men would deride the outlandish tool! Itold them that in my country women use bows and arrows, moreover thatlancers are generally considered a corps of non-combatants; in vain! theyadhered as strongly--so mighty a thing is prejudice--to their partialityfor bows, arrows, and lances. Their horsemanship is peculiar, they balancethemselves upon little Abyssinian saddles, extending the leg and raisingthe heel in the Louis Quinze style of equitation, and the stirrup is aniron ring admitting only the big toe. I follow them mounting a fine whitemule, which, with its gaudily _galonne_ Arab pad and wrapper cloth, has acertain dignity of look; a double-barrelled gun lies across my lap; and arude pair of holsters, the work of Hasan Turki, contains my Colt's six-shooters. 

Marching in this order, which was to serve as a model, we travelled duesouth along the coast, over a hard, stoneless, and alluvial plain, heredry, there muddy (where the tide reaches), across boggy creeks, broadwater-courses, and warty flats of black mould powdered with nitrous salt, and bristling with the salsolaceous vegetation familiar to the Arabvoyager. Such is the general formation of the plain between the mountainsand the sea, whose breadth, in a direct line, may measure from forty-fiveto forty-eight miles. Near the first zone of hills, or sub-Ghauts, itproduces a thicker vegetation; thorns and acacias of different kindsappear in clumps; and ground broken with ridges and ravines announces thejunction. After the monsoon this plain is covered with rich grass. Atother seasons it affords but a scanty supply of an "aqueous matter"resembling bilgewater. The land belongs to the Mummasan clan of the Eesa:how these "Kurrah-jog" or "sun-dwellers, " as the Bedouins are called bythe burgher Somal, can exist here in summer, is a mystery. My arms werepeeled even in the month of December; and my companions, panting with theheat, like the Atlantes of Herodotus, poured forth reproaches upon therising sun. The townspeople, when forced to hurry across it in the hotterseason, cover themselves during the day with Tobes wetted every half hourin sea water; yet they are sometimes killed by the fatal thirst which theSimum engenders. Even the Bedouins are now longing for rain; a few weeks'drought destroys half their herds. 

Early in the afternoon our Abban and a woman halted for a few minutes, performed their ablutions, and prayed with a certain display: satisfiedapparently, with the result, they never repeated the exercise. Aboutsunset we passed, on the right, clumps of trees overgrowing a water called"Warabod", the Hyena's Well; this is the first Marhalah or halting-placeusually made by travellers to the interior. Hence there is a direct pathleading south-south-west, by six short marches, to the hills. Our Abban, however, was determined that we should not so easily escape his kraal. Half an hour afterwards we passed by the second station, "Hangagarri", awell near the sea: frequent lights twinkling through the darkening airinformed us that we were in the midst of the Eesa. At 8 P. M. We reached"Gagab", the third Marhalah, where the camels, casting themselves upon theground, imperatively demanded a halt. Raghe was urgent for an advance, declaring that already he could sight the watchfires of his Rer or tribe[12]; but the animals carried the point against him. They were presentlyunloaded and turned out to graze, and the lariats of the mules, who areaddicted to running away, were fastened to stones for want of pegs [13]. Then, lighting a fire, we sat down to a homely supper of dates. 

The air was fresh and clear; and the night breeze was delicious after thesteamy breath of day. The weary confinement of walls made the splendidexpanse a luxury to the sight, whilst the tumbling of the surf upon thenear shore, and the music of the jackal, predisposed to sweet sleep. Wenow felt that at length the die was cast. Placing my pistols by my side, with my rifle butt for a pillow, and its barrel as a bed-fellow, I soughtrepose with none of that apprehension which even the most stout-heartedtraveller knows before the start. It is the difference between fancy andreality, between anxiety and certainty: to men gifted with any imaginativepowers the anticipation must ever be worse than the event. Thus ithappens, that he who feels a thrill of fear before engaging in a peril, exchanges it for a throb of exultation when he finds himself hand to handwith the danger. 

The "End of Time" volunteered to keep watch that night. When the earlydawn glimmered he aroused us, and blew up the smouldering fire, whilst ourwomen proceeded to load the camels. We pursued our way over hard alluvialsoil to sand, and thence passed into a growth of stiff yellow grass notunlike a stubble in English September. Day broke upon a Somali Arcadia, whose sole flaws were salt water and Simum. Whistling shepherds [14]carried in their arms the younglings of the herds, or, spear in hand, drove to pasture long regular lines of camels, that waved their vulture-like heads, and arched their necks to bite in play their neighbours'faces, humps, and hind thighs. They were led by a patriarch, to whosethroat hung a Kor or wooden bell, the preventive for straggling; and mostof them were followed (for winter is the breeding season) by colts inevery stage of infancy. [15] Patches of sheep, with snowy skins and jettyfaces, flocked the yellow plain; and herds of goats resembling deer weredriven by hide-clad children to the bush. Women, in similar attire, accompanied them, some chewing the inner bark of trees, others spinningyarns of a white creeper called Sagsug for ropes and tent-mats. The boyscarried shepherds' crooks [16], and bore their watering pails [17], foolscap fashion, upon their heads. Sometimes they led the ram, aroundwhose neck a cord of white leather was bound for luck; at other times theyfrisked with the dog, an animal by no means contemptible in the eyes ofthe Bedouins. [18] As they advanced, the graceful little sand antelopebounded away over the bushes; and above them, soaring high in thecloudless skies, were flights of vultures and huge percnopters, unerringindicators of man's habitation in Somali-land. [19]

A net-work of paths showed that we were approaching a populous place; andpresently men swarmed forth from their hive-shaped tents, testifying theirsatisfaction at our arrival, the hostile Habr Awal having threatened to"eat them up. " We rode cautiously, as is customary, amongst the yeaningshe-camels, who are injured by a sudden start, and about 8 A. M. Arrived atour guide's kraal, the fourth station, called "Gudingaras, " or the lowplace where the Garas tree grows. The encampment lay south-east (165°) of, and about twenty miles from, Zayla. 

Raghe disappeared, and the Bedouins flocked out to gaze upon us as weapproached the kraal. Meanwhile Shehrazade and Deenarzade fetched tent-sticks from the village, disposed our luggage so as to form a wall, riggedout a wigwam, spread our beds in the shade, and called aloud for sweet andsour milk. I heard frequently muttered by the red-headed spearmen, theominous term "Faranj" [20]; and although there was no danger, it wasdeemed advisable to make an impression without delay. Presently they beganto deride our weapons: the Hammal requested them to put up one of theirshields as a mark; they laughed aloud but shirked compliance. At last alarge brown, bare-necked vulture settled on the ground at twenty paces'distance. The Somal hate the "Gurgur", because he kills the dying anddevours the dead on the battle-field: a bullet put through the bird's bodycaused a cry of wonder, and some ran after the lead as it span whistlingover the ridge. Then loading with swan-shot, which these Bedouins hadnever seen, I knocked over a second vulture flying. Fresh screams followedthe marvellous feat; the women exclaimed "Lo! he bringeth down the birdsfrom heaven;" and one old man, putting his forefinger in his mouth, praised Allah and prayed to be defended from such a calamity. The effectwas such that I determined always to cany a barrel loaded with shot as thebest answer for all who might object to "Faranj. "

We spent our day in the hut after the normal manner, with a crowd ofwoolly-headed Bedouins squatting perseveringly opposite our quarters, spear in hand, with eyes fixed upon every gesture. Before noon the door-mat was let down, --a precaution also adopted whenever box or package wasopened, --we drank milk and ate rice with "a kitchen" of Kawurmah. Aboutmidday the crowd retired to sleep; my companions followed their example, and I took the opportunity of sketching and jotting down notes. [21] Earlyin the afternoon the Bedouins returned, and resumed their mute form ofpleading for tobacco: each man, as he received a handful, rose slowly fromhis hams and went his way. The senior who disliked the gun was importunatefor a charm to cure his sick camel: having obtained it, he blessed us in aset speech, which lasted at least half an hour, and concluded withspitting upon the whole party for good luck. [22] It is always well toencourage these Nestors; they are regarded with the greatest reverence bythe tribes, who believe that

 "old experience doth attain To something like prophetic strain;"

and they can either do great good or cause much petty annoyance. 

In the evening I took my gun, and, accompanied by the End of Time, wentout to search for venison: the plain, however, was full of men and cattle, and its hidden denizens had migrated. During our walk we visited the tombof an Eesa brave. It was about ten feet long, heaped up with granitepebbles, bits of black basalt, and stones of calcareous lime: two uprightslabs denoted the position of the head and feet, and upon these hung thedeceased's milk-pails, much the worse for sun and wind. Round the gravewas a thin fence of thorns: opposite the single narrow entrance, werethree blocks of stone planted in line, and showing the number of enemiesslain by the brave. [23] Beyond these trophies, a thorn roofing, supportedby four bare poles, served to shade the relatives, when they meet to sit, feast, weep, and pray. 

The Bedouin funerals and tombs are equally simple. They have no favouritecemeteries as in Sindh and other Moslem and pastoral lands: men are buriedwhere they die, and the rarity of the graves scattered about the countryexcited my astonishment. The corpse is soon interred. These people, likemost barbarians, have a horror of death and all that reminds them of it:on several occasions I have been begged to throw away a hut-stick, thathad been used to dig a grave. The bier is a rude framework of poles boundwith ropes of hide. Some tie up the body and plant it in a sittingposture, to save themselves the trouble of excavating deep: this perhapsmay account for the circular tombs seen in many parts of the country. Usually the corpse is thrust into a long hole, covered with wood andmatting, and heaped over with earth and thorns, half-protected by an ovalmass of loose stones, and abandoned to the jackals and hyenas. 

We halted a day at Gudingaras, wishing to see the migration of a tribe. Before dawn, on the 30th November, the Somali Stentor proclaimed from theridge-top, "Fetch your camels!--Load your goods!--We march!" About 8 A. M. We started in the rear. The spectacle was novel to me. Some 150 spearmen, assisted by their families, were driving before them divisions which, intotal, might amount to 200 cows, 7000 camels, and 11, 000 or 12, 000 sheepand goats. Only three wore the Bal or feather, which denotes the brave;several, however, had the other decoration--an ivory armlet. [24] Assistedby the boys, whose heads were shaved in a cristated fashion trulyridiculous, and large pariah dogs with bushy tails, they drove the beastsand carried the colts, belaboured runaway calves, and held up the hindlegs of struggling sheep. The sick, of whom there were many, --dysenterybeing at the time prevalent, --were carried upon camels with their legsprotruding in front from under the hide-cover. Many of the dromedariesshowed the Habr Awal brand [25]: laden with hutting materials and domesticfurniture, they were led by the maidens: the matrons, followed, bearingtheir progeny upon their backs, bundled in the shoulder-lappets of clothor hide. The smaller girls, who, in addition to the boys' crest, wore acirclet of curly hair round the head, carried the weakling lambs and kids, or aided their mammas in transporting the baby. Apparently in great fearof the "All" or Commando, the Bedouins anxiously inquired if I had my"fire" with me [26], and begged us to take the post of honour--the van. Asour little party pricked forward, the camels started in alarm, and we weresurprised to find that this tribe did not know the difference betweenhorses and mules. Whenever the boys lost time in sport or quarrel, theywere threatened by their fathers with the jaws of that ogre, the whitestranger; and the women exclaimed, as they saw us approach, "Here comesthe old man who knows knowledge!" [27]

Having skirted the sea for two hours, I rode off with the End of Time toinspect the Dihh Silil [28], a fiumara which runs from the western hillsnorth-eastwards to the sea. Its course is marked by a long line ofgraceful tamarisks, whose vivid green looked doubly bright set off bytawny stubble and amethyst-blue sky. These freshets are the Edens of Adel. The banks are charmingly wooded with acacias of many varieties, somethorned like the fabled Zakkum, others parachute-shaped, and planted inimpenetrable thickets: huge white creepers, snake-shaped, enclasp gianttrees, or connect with their cordage the higher boughs, or depend likecables from the lower branches to the ground. Luxuriant parasites abound:here they form domes of flashing green, there they surround with verduredecayed trunks, and not unfrequently cluster into sylvan bowers, underwhich--grateful sight!--appears succulent grass. From the thinner thornsthe bell-shaped nests of the Loxia depend, waving in the breeze, and thewood resounds with the cries of bright-winged choristers. The torrent-bedsare of the clearest and finest white sand, glittering with gold-colouredmica, and varied with nodules of clear and milky quartz, red porphyry, andgranites of many hues. Sometimes the centre is occupied by an islet oftorn trees and stones rolled in heaps, supporting a clump of thick jujubeor tall acacia, whilst the lower parts of the beds are overgrown with longlines of lively green colocynth. [29] Here are usually the wells, surrounded by heaps of thorns, from which the leaves have been browsedoff, and dwarf sticks that support the water-hide. When the flocks andherds are absent, troops of gazelles may be seen daintily pacing theyielding surface; snake trails streak the sand, and at night the fiercerkind of animals, lions, leopards, and elephants, take their turn. InSomali-land the well is no place of social meeting; no man lingers to chatnear it, no woman visits it, and the traveller fears to pitch hut wheretorrents descend, and where enemies, human and bestial, meet. 

We sat under a tree watching the tribe defile across the water-course:then remounting, after a ride of two miles, we reached a ground calledKuranyali [30], upon which the wigwams of the Nomads were already rising. The parched and treeless stubble lies about eight miles from and 145° S. E. Of Gudingaras; both places are supplied by Angagarri, a well near the sea, which is so distant that cattle, to return before nightfall, must startearly in the morning. 

My attendants had pitched the Gurgi or hut: the Hammal and Long Guledwere, however, sulky on account of my absence, and the Kalendar appeareddisposed to be mutinous. The End of Time, who never lost an opportunity tomake mischief, whispered in my ear, "Despise thy wife, thy son, and thyservant, or they despise thee!" The old saw was not wanted, however, toprocure for them a sound scolding. Nothing is worse for the Easterntraveller than the habit of "sending to Coventry:"--it does away with allmanner of discipline. 

We halted that day at Kuranyali, preparing water and milk for two longmarches over the desert to the hills. Being near the shore, the air wascloudy, although men prayed for a shower in vain: about midday thepleasant seabreeze fanned our cheeks, and the plain was thronged with tallpillars of white sand. [31]

The heat forbade egress, and our Wigwam was crowded with hungry visitors. Raghe, urged thereto by his tribe, became importunate, now for tobacco, then for rice, now for dates, then for provisions in general. No wonderthat the Prophet made his Paradise for the Poor a mere place of eating anddrinking. The half-famished Bedouins, Somal or Arab, think of nothingbeyond the stomach, --their dreams know no higher vision of bliss than mererepletion. A single article of diet, milk or flesh, palling upon man'spalate, they will greedily suck the stones of eaten dates: yet, Abyssinianlike, they are squeamish and fastidious as regards food. They despise theexcellent fish with which Nature has so plentifully stocked their seas. [32] "Speak not to me with that mouth which eateth fish!" is a favouriteinsult amongst the Bedouins. If you touch a bird or a fowl of anydescription, you will be despised even by the starving beggar. You mustnot eat marrow or the flesh about the sheep's thigh-bone, especially whentravelling, and the kidneys are called a woman's dish. None but theNorthern Somal will touch the hares which abound in the country, and manyrefuse the sand antelope and other kinds of game, not asserting that themeat is unlawful, but simply alleging a disgust. Those who chew coffeeberries are careful not to place an even number in their mouths, andcamel's milk is never heated, for fear of bewitching the animal. [33] TheSomali, however, differs in one point from his kinsman the Arab: thelatter prides himself upon his temperance; the former, like the NorthAmerican Indian, measures manhood by appetite. A "Son of the Somal" istaught, as soon as his teeth are cut, to devour two pounds of the toughestmutton, and ask for more: if his powers of deglutition fail, he is deridedas degenerate. 

On the next day (Friday, 1st Dec. ) we informed the Abban that we intendedstarting early in the afternoon, and therefore warned him to hold himselfand his escort, together with the water and milk necessary for our march, in readiness. He promised compliance and disappeared. About 3 P. M. TheBedouins, armed as usual with spear and shield, began to gather round thehut, and--nothing in this country can be done without that terrible"palaver!"--the speechifying presently commenced. Raghe, in a lengthyharangue hoped that the tribe would afford us all the necessary suppliesand assist us in the arduous undertaking. His words elicited no hear!hear!--there was an evident unwillingness on the part of the wild men tolet us, or rather our cloth and tobacco, depart. One remarked, with surlyemphasis, that he had "seen no good and eaten no Bori [34] from thatcaravan, why should he aid it?" When we asked the applauding hearers whatthey had done for us, they rejoined by inquiring whose the land was?Another, smitten by the fair Shehrazade's bulky charms, had proposedmatrimony, and offered as dowry a milch camel: she "temporised, " notdaring to return a positive refusal, and the suitor betrayed a certainHibernian _velleite_ to consider consent an unimportant part of theceremony. The mules had been sent to the well, with orders to returnbefore noon: at 4 P. M. They were not visible. I then left the hut, and, sitting on a cow's-hide in the sun, ordered my men to begin loading, despite the remonstrances of the Abban and the interference of about fiftyBedouins. As we persisted, they waxed surlier, and declared that all whichwas ours became theirs, to whom the land belonged: we did not deny theclaim, but simply threatened sorcery-death, by wild beasts and foragingparties, to their "camels, children, and women. " This brought them totheir senses, the usual effect of such threats; and presently arose thesenior who had spat upon us for luck's sake. With his toothless jaws hemumbled a vehement speech, and warned the tribe that it was not good todetain such strangers: they lent ready ears to the words of Nestor, saying, "Let us obey him, he is near his end!" The mules arrived, but whenI looked for the escort, none was forthcoming. At Zayla it was agreed thattwenty men should protect us across the desert, which is the very passageof plunder; now, however, five or six paupers offered to accompany us fora few miles. We politely declined troubling them, but insisted upon theattendance of our Abban and three of his kindred: as some of the Bedouinsstill opposed us, our aged friend once more arose, and by copious abusefinally silenced them. We took leave of him with many thanks and handfulsof tobacco, in return for which he blessed us with fervour. Then, mountingour mules, we set out, followed for at least a mile by a long tail ofhowling boys, who, ignorant of clothing, except a string of white beadsround the neck, but armed with dwarf spears, bows, and arrows, showed allthe impudence of baboons. They derided the End of Time's equitation till Ifeared a scene;--sailor-like, he prided himself upon gracefulhorsemanship, and the imps were touching his tenderest point. 

Hitherto, for the Abban's convenience, we had skirted the sea, far out ofthe direct road: now we were to strike south-westwards into the interior. At 6 P. M. We started across a "Goban" [35] which eternal summer gildswith a dull ochreish yellow, towards a thin blue strip of hill on the farhorizon. The Somal have no superstitious dread of night and its horrors, like Arabs and Abyssinians: our Abban, however, showed a wholesome mundanefear of plundering parties, scorpions, and snakes. [36] I had been carefulto fasten round my ankles the twists of black wool called by the ArabsZaal [37], and universally used in Yemen; a stock of garlic and opium, here held to be specifics, fortified the courage of the party, whose fearswere not wholly ideal, for, in the course of the night, Shehrazade nearlytrod upon a viper. 

At first the plain was a network of holes, the habitations of the Jir Ad[38], a field rat with ruddy back and white belly, the Mullah or Parson, asmooth-skinned lizard, and the Dabagalla, a ground squirrel with abrilliant and glossy coat. As it became dark arose a cheerful moon, exciting the howlings of the hyenas, the barkings of their attendantjackals [39], and the chattered oaths of the Hidinhitu bird. [40] Dottedhere and there over the misty landscape, appeared dark clumps of a treecalled "Kullan, " a thorn with an edible berry not unlike the jujube, andbanks of silvery mist veiled the far horizon from the sight. 

We marched rapidly and in silence, stopping every quarter of an hour toraise the camels' loads as they slipped on one side. I had now anopportunity of seeing how feeble a race is the Somal. My companions on theline of march wondered at my being able to carry a gun; they couldscarcely support, even whilst riding, the weight of their spears, andpreferred sitting upon them to spare their shoulders. At times they wereobliged to walk because the saddles cut them, then they remounted becausetheir legs were tired; briefly, an English boy of fourteen would haveshown more bottom than the sturdiest. This cannot arise from poor diet, for the citizens, who live generously, are yet weaker than the Bedouins;it is a peculiarity of race. When fatigued they become reckless andimpatient of thirst: on this occasion, though want of water stared us inthe face, one skin of the three was allowed to fall upon the road andburst, and the second's contents were drunk before we halted. 

At 11 P. M. , after marching twelve miles in direct line, we bivouacked uponthe plain. The night breeze from the hills had set in, and my attendantschattered with cold: Long Guled in particular became stiff as a mummy. Raghe was clamorous against a fire, which might betray our whereabouts inthe "Bush Inn. " But after such a march the pipe was a necessity, and thepoint was carried against him. 

After a sound sleep under the moon, we rose at 5 A. M. And loaded thecamels. It was a raw morning. A large nimbus rising from the east obscuredthe sun, the line of blue sea was raised like a ridge by refraction, andthe hills, towards which we were journeying, now showed distinct falls andfolds. Troops of Dera or gazelles, herding like goats, stood, stared atus, turned their white tails, faced away, broke into a long trot, andbounded over the plain as we approached. A few ostriches appeared, butthey were too shy even for bullet. [41] At 8 P. M. We crossed one of thenumerous drains which intersect this desert--"Biya Hablod, " or the Girls'Water, a fiumara running from south-west to east and north-east. Althoughdry, it abounded in the Marer, a tree bearing yellowish red berries fullof viscous juice like green gum, --edible but not nice, --and the brightervegetation showed that water was near the surface. About two hoursafterwards, as the sun became oppressive, we unloaded in a water-course, called by my companions Adad or the Acacia Gum [42]: the distance wasabout twenty-five miles, and the direction S. W. 225° of Kuranyali. 

We spread our couches of cowhide in the midst of a green mass of tamariskunder a tall Kud tree, a bright-leaved thorn, with balls of golden gumclinging to its boughs, dry berries scattered in its shade, and armies ofants marching to and from its trunk. All slept upon the soft white sand, with arms under their hands, for our spoor across the desert was nowunmistakeable. At midday rice was boiled for us by the indefatigablewomen, and at 3 P. M. We resumed our march towards the hills, which hadexchanged their shadowy blue for a coat of pronounced brown. Journeyingonwards, we reached the Barragid fiumara, and presently exchanged theplain for rolling ground covered with the remains of an extinct race, andprobably alluded to by El Makrizi when he records that the Moslems of Adelhad erected, throughout the country, a vast number of mosques andoratories for Friday and festival prayers. Places of worship appeared inthe shape of parallelograms, unhewed stones piled upon the ground, with asemicircular niche in the direction of Meccah. The tombs, different fromthe heaped form now in fashion, closely resembled the older erections inthe island of Saad El Din, near Zayla--oblong slabs planted deep in thesoil. We also observed frequent hollow rings of rough blocks, circlesmeasuring about a cubit in diameter: I had not time to excavate them, andthe End of Time could only inform me that they belonged to the "Awwalin, "or olden inhabitants. 

At 7 P. M. , as evening was closing in, we came upon the fresh trail of alarge Habr Awal cavalcade. The celebrated footprint seen by RobinsonCrusoe affected him not more powerfully than did this "daaseh" mycompanions. The voice of song suddenly became mute. The women drove thecamels hurriedly, and all huddled together, except Raghe, who kept well tothe front ready for a run. Whistling with anger, I asked my attendantswhat had slain them: the End of Time, in a hollow voice, replied, "Verily, 0 pilgrim, whoso seeth the track, seeth the foe!" and he quoted in tonesof terror those dreary lines--

 "Man is but a handful of dust, And life is a violent storm. "

We certainly were a small party to contend against 200 horsemen, --nine menand two women: moreover all except the Hammal and Long Guled wouldinfallibly have fled at the first charge. 

Presently we sighted the trails of sheep and goats, showing the proximityof a village: their freshness was ascertained by my companions after aneager scrutiny in the moon's bright beams. About half an hour afterwards, rough ravines with sharp and thorny descents warned us that we hadexchanged the dangerous plain for a place of safety where horsemen rarelyventure. Raghe, not admiring the "open, " hurried us onward, in hope ofreaching some kraal. At 8 P. M. , however, seeing the poor women lamed withthorns, and the camels casting themselves upon the ground, I resolved tohalt. Despite all objections, we lighted a fire, finished our store of badmilk--the water had long ago been exhausted--and lay down in the cold, clear air, covering ourselves with hides and holding our weapons. 

At 6 A. M. We resumed our ride over rough stony ground, the thorns tearingour feet and naked legs, and the camels slipping over the rounded waste ofdrift pebbles. The Bedouins, with ears applied to the earth, listened fora village, but heard none. Suddenly we saw two strangers, and presently wecame upon an Eesa kraal. It was situated in a deep ravine, called Damal, backed by a broad and hollow Fiumara at the foot of the hills, runningfrom west to east, and surrounded by lofty trees, upon which brown kites, black vultures, and percnopters like flakes of snow were mewing. We hadmarched over a winding path about eleven miles from, and in a south-westdirection (205°) of, Adad. Painful thoughts suggested themselves: inconsequence of wandering southwards, only six had been taken off thirtystages by the labours of seven days. 

As usual in Eastern Africa, we did not enter the kraal uninvited, butunloosed and pitched the wigwam under a tree outside. Presently the eldersappeared bringing, with soft speeches, sweet water, new milk, fat sheepand goats, for which they demanded a Tobe of Cutch canvass. We passed withthem a quiet luxurious day of coffee and pipes, fresh cream and roastedmutton: after the plain-heats we enjoyed the cool breeze of the hills, thecloudy sky, and the verdure of the glades, made doubly green by comparisonwith the parched stubbles below. 

The Eesa, here mixed with the Gudabirsi, have little power: we found thempoor and proportionally importunate. The men, wild-looking as open mouths, staring eyes, and tangled hair could make them, gazed with extremeeagerness upon my scarlet blanket: for very shame they did not beg it, butthe inviting texture was pulled and fingered by the greasy multitude. Weclosed the hut whenever a valuable was produced, but eager eyes peepedthrough every cranny, till the End of Time ejaculated "Praised be Allah!"[43] and quoted the Arab saying, "Show not the Somal thy door, and if hefind it, block it up!" The women and children were clad in chocolate-coloured hides, fringed at the tops: to gratify them I shot a few hawks, and was rewarded with loud exclamations, --"Allah preserve thy hand!"--"Maythy skill never fail thee before the foe!" A crone seeing me smoke, inquired if the fire did not burn: I handed my pipe, which nearly chokedher, and she ran away from a steaming kettle, thinking it a weapon. As mycompanions observed, there was not a "Miskal of sense in a Maund ofheads:" yet the people looked upon my sun-burnt skin with a favour theydenied to the "lime-white face. "

I was anxious to proceed in the afternoon, but Raghe had arrived at thefrontier of his tribe: he had blood to settle amongst the Gudabirsi, andwithout a protector he could not enter their lands. At night we sleptarmed on account of the lions that infest the hills, and our huts weresurrounded with a thorn fence--a precaution here first adopted, and neverafterwards neglected. Early on the morning of the 4th of December heavyclouds rolled down from the mountains, and a Scotch mist deepened into ashower: our new Abban had not arrived, and the hut-mats, saturated withrain, had become too heavy for the camels to carry. 

In the forenoon the Eesa kraal, loading their Asses [44], set out towardsthe plain. This migration presented no new features, except that severalsick and decrepid were barbarously left behind, for lions and hyaenas todevour. [45] To deceive "warhawks" who might be on the lookout, themigrators set fire to logs of wood and masses of sheep's earth, which, even in rain, will smoke and smoulder for weeks. 

About midday arrived the two Gudabirsi who intended escorting us to thevillage of our Abbans. The elder, Rirash, was a black-skinned, wild-looking fellow, with a shock head of hair and a deep scowl which beliedhis good temper and warm heart: the other was a dun-faced youth betrothedto Raghe's daughter. They both belonged to the Mahadasan clan, andcommenced operations by an obstinate attempt to lead us far out of our wayeastwards. The pretext was the defenceless state of their flocks andherds, the real reason an itching for cloth and tobacco. We resistedmanfully this time, nerved by the memory of wasted days, and, despitetheir declarations of Absi [46], we determined upon making westward forthe hills. 

At 2 P. M. The caravan started along the Fiumara course in rear of thedeserted kraal, and after an hour's ascent Rirash informed us that a wellwas near. The Hammal and I, taking two water skins, urged our mules overstones and thorny ground: presently we arrived at a rocky ravine, where, surrounded by brambles, rude walls, and tough frame works, lay the wells--three or four holes sunk ten feet deep in the limestone. Whilst we bathedin the sulphureous spring, which at once discolored my silver ring, Rirash, baling up the water in his shield, filled the bags and bound themto the saddles. In haste we rejoined the caravan, which we found aboutsunset, halted by the vain fears of the guides. The ridge upon which theystood was a mass of old mosques and groves, showing that in former days athick population tenanted these hills: from the summit appeared distantherds of kine and white flocks scattered like patches of mountain quartz. Riding in advance, we traversed the stony ridge, fell into another ravine, and soon saw signs of human life. A shepherd descried us from afar and ranaway reckless of property; causing the End of Time to roll his head withdignity, and to ejaculate, "Of a truth said the Prophet of Allah, 'fear isdivided. '" Presently we fell in with a village, from which the peoplerushed out, some exclaiming, "Lo! let us look at the kings!" others, "Come, see the white man, he is governor of Zayla!" I objected to suchdignity, principally on account of its price: my companions, however, wereinexorable; they would be Salatin--kings--and my colour was against claimsto low degree. This fairness, and the Arab dress, made me at differenttimes the ruler of Aden, the chief of Zayla, the Hajj's son, a boy, an oldwoman, a man painted white, a warrior in silver armour, a merchant, apilgrim, a hedgepriest, Ahmed the Indian, a Turk, an Egyptian, aFrenchman, a Banyan, a sherif, and lastly a Calamity sent down from heavento weary out the lives of the Somal: every kraal had some conjecture ofits own, and each fresh theory was received by my companions with roars oflaughter. 

As the Gudabirsi pursued us with shouts for tobacco and cries of wonder, Idispersed them with a gun-shot: the women and children fled precipitatelyfrom the horrid sound, and the men, covering their heads with theirshields, threw themselves face foremost upon the ground. Pursuing theFiumara course, we passed a number of kraals, whose inhabitants wereequally vociferous: out of one came a Zayla man, who informed us that theGudabirsi Abbans, to whom we bore Sharmarkay's letter of introduction, were encamped within three days' march. It was reported, however, that aquarrel had broken out between them and the Gerad Adan, their brother-in-law; no pleasant news!--in Africa, under such circumstances, it iscustomary for friends to detain, and for foes to oppose, the traveller. Werode stoutly on, till the air darkened and the moon tipped the distanthill peaks with a dim mysterious light. I then called a halt: we unloadedon the banks of the Darkaynlay fiumara, so called from a tree whichcontains a fiery milk, fenced ourselves in, --taking care to avoid beingtrampled upon by startled camels during our sleep, by securing them in aseparate but neighbouring inclosure, --spread our couches, ate our frugalsuppers, and lost no time in falling asleep. We had travelled five hoursthat day, but the path was winding, and our progress in a straight linewas at most eight miles. 

And now, dear L. , being about to quit the land of the Eesa, I will sketchthe tribe. 

The Eesa, probably the most powerful branch of the Somali nation, extendsnorthwards to the Wayma family of the Dankali; southwards to theGudabirsi, and midway between Zayla and Berberah; eastwards it is boundedby the sea, and westwards by the Gallas around Harar. It derives itselffrom Dirr and Aydur, without, however, knowing aught beyond the ancestralnames, and is twitted with paganism by its enemies. This tribe, said tonumber 100, 000 shields, is divided into numerous clans [47]: these againsplit up into minor septs [48] which plunder, and sometimes murder, oneanother in time of peace. 

A fierce and turbulent race of republicans, the Eesa own nominalallegiance to a Ugaz or chief residing in the Hadagali hills. He isgenerally called "Roblay"--Prince Rainy, --the name or rather title beingone of good omen, for a drought here, like a dinner in Europe, justifiesthe change of a dynasty. Every kraal has its Oddai (shaikh or head man, )after whose name the settlement, as in Sindh and other pastoral lands, iscalled. He is obeyed only when his orders suit the taste of King Demos, isalways superior to his fellows in wealth of cattle, sometimes in talentand eloquence, and in deliberations he is assisted by the Wail or Akill--the Peetzo-council of Southern Africa--Elders obeyed on account of theirage. Despite, however, this apparatus of rule, the Bedouins have lost noneof the characteristics recorded in the Periplus: they are still"uncivilised and under no restraint. " Every freeborn man holds himselfequal to his ruler, and allows no royalties or prerogatives to abridge hisbirthright of liberty. [49] Yet I have observed, that with all theirpassion for independence, the Somal, when subject to strict rule as atZayla and Harar, are both apt to discipline and subservient to command. 

In character, the Eesa are childish and docile, cunning, and deficient injudgment, kind and fickle, good-humoured and irascible, warm-hearted, andinfamous for cruelty and treachery. Even the protector will slay hisprotege, and citizens married to Eesa girls send their wives to buy goatsand sheep from, but will not trust themselves amongst, their connexions. "Traitorous as an Eesa, " is a proverb at Zayla, where the people tell youthat these Bedouins with the left hand offer a bowl of milk, and stab withthe right. "Conscience, " I may observe, does not exist in Eastern Africa, and "Repentance" expresses regret for missed opportunities of mortalcrime. Robbery constitutes an honorable man: murder--the more atrociousthe midnight crime the better--makes the hero. Honor consists in takinghuman life: hyaena-like, the Bedouins cannot be trusted where blood may beshed: Glory is the having done all manner of harm. Yet the Eesa have theirgood points: they are not noted liars, and will rarely perjure themselves:they look down upon petty pilfering without violence, and they aregenerous and hospitable compared with the other Somal. Personally, I hadno reason to complain of them. They were importunate beggars, but a pinchof snuff or a handful of tobacco always made us friends: they begged me tosettle amongst them, they offered me sundry wives and, --the SomaliBedouin, unlike the Arab, readily affiliates strangers to his tribe--theydeclared that after a few days' residence, I should become one ofthemselves. 

In appearance, the Eesa are distinguished from other Somal by blackness, ugliness of feature, and premature baldness of the temples; they alsoshave, or rather scrape off with their daggers, the hair high up the napeof the neck. The locks are dyed dun, frizzled, and greased; the Widads orlearned men remove them, and none but paupers leave them in their naturalstate; the mustachios are clipped close, the straggling whisker iscarefully plucked, and the pile--erroneously considered impure--is removedeither by vellication, or by passing the limbs through the fire. The eyesof the Bedouins, also, are less prominent than those of the citizens: thebrow projects in pent-house fashion, and the organ, exposed to brightlight, and accustomed to gaze at distant objects, acquires moreconcentration and power. I have seen amongst them handsome profiles, andsome of the girls have fine figures with piquant if not pretty features. 

Flocks and herds form the true wealth of the Eesa. According to them, sheep and goats are of silver, and the cow of gold: they compare camels tothe rock, and believe, like most Moslems, the horse to have been createdfrom the wind. Their diet depends upon the season. In hot weather, whenforage and milk dry up, the flocks are slaughtered, and supply excellentmutton; during the monsoon men become fat, by drinking all day long theproduce of their cattle. In the latter article of diet, the Eesa aredelicate and curious: they prefer cow's milk, then the goat's, and lastlythe ewe's, which the Arab loves best: the first is drunk fresh, and thetwo latter clotted, whilst the camel's is slightly soured. The townspeopleuse camel's milk medicinally: according to the Bedouins, he who lives onthis beverage, and eats the meat for forty-four consecutive days, acquiresthe animal's strength. It has perhaps less "body" than any other milk, andis deliciously sweet shortly after foaling: presently it loses flavour, and nothing can be more nauseous than the produce of an old camel. TheSomal have a name for cream--"Laben"--but they make no use of the article, churning it with the rest of the milk. They have no buffaloes, shudder atthe Tartar idea of mare's-milk, like the Arabs hold the name Labban [50] adisgrace, and make it a point of honor not to draw supplies from theircattle during the day. 

The life led by these wild people is necessarily monotonous. They rest butlittle--from 11 P. M. Till dawn--and never sleep in the bush, for fear ofplundering parties, Few begin the day with prayer as Moslems should: forthe most part they apply themselves to counting and milking their cattle. The animals, all of which have names [51], come when called to the pail, and supply the family with a morning meal. Then the warriors, graspingtheir spears, and sometimes the young women armed only with staves, drivetheir herds to pasture: the matrons and children, spinning or rope-making, tend the flocks, and the kraal is abandoned to the very young, the old, and the sick. The herdsmen wander about, watching the cattle and tastingnothing but the pure element or a pinch of coarse tobacco. Sometimes theyplay at Shahh, Shantarah, and other games, of which they are passionatelyfond: with a board formed of lines traced in the sand, and bits of drywood or camel's earth acting pieces, they spend hour after hour, everylooker-on vociferating his opinion, and catching at the men, tillapparently the two players are those least interested in the game. Or, todrive off sleep, they sit whistling to their flocks, or they perform uponthe Forimo, a reed pipe generally made at Harar, which has a plaintivesound uncommonly pleasing. [52] In the evening, the kraal again resoundswith lowing and bleating: the camel's milk is all drunk, the cow's andgoat's reserved for butter and ghee, which the women prepare; the numbersare once more counted, and the animals are carefully penned up for thenight. This simple life is varied by an occasional birth and marriage, dance and foray, disease and murder. Their maladies are few and simple[53]; death generally comes by the spear, and the Bedouin is naturallylong-lived. I have seen Macrobians hale and strong, preserving theirpowers and faculties in spite of eighty and ninety years. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] By this route the Mukattib or courier travels on foot from Zayla toHarar in five days at the most. The Somal reckon their journeys by theGedi or march, the Arab "Hamleh, " which varies from four to five hours. They begin before dawn and halt at about 11 A. M. , the time of the morningmeal. When a second march is made they load at 3 P. M. And advance tilldark; thus fifteen miles would be the average of fast travelling. Inplaces of danger they will cover twenty-six or twenty-seven miles ofground without halting to eat or rest: nothing less, however, than regardfor "dear life" can engender such activity. Generally two or three hours'work per diem is considered sufficient; and, where provisions abound, halts are long and frequent. 

[2] The Mikahil is a clan of the Habr Awal tribe living near Berberah, andcelebrated for their bloodthirsty and butchering propensities. Many of theMidgan or serviles (a term explained in Chap. II. ) are domesticatedamongst them. 

[3] So the Abyssinian chief informed M. Krapf that he loved the French, but could not endure us--simply the effect of manner. 

[4] The first is the name of the individual; the second is that of herfather. 

[5] This delicate operation is called by the Arabs Daasah (whence the"Dosch ceremony" at Cairo). It is used over most parts of the Easternworld as a remedy for sickness and fatigue, and is generally preferred toTakbis or Dugmo, the common style of shampooing, which, say many Easterns, loosens the skin. 

[6] The Somal, from habit, enjoy no other variety; they even showeddisgust at my Latakia. Tobacco is grown in some places by the Gudabirsiand other tribes; bat it is rare and bad. Without this article it would beimpossible to progress in East Africa; every man asks for a handful, andmany will not return milk for what they expect to receive as a gift. Theirimportunity reminds the traveller of the Galloway beggars some generationsago:--"They are for the most part great chewers of tobacco, and are soaddicted to it, that they will ask for a piece thereof from a stranger ashe is riding on his way; and therefore let not a traveller want an ounceor two of roll tobacco in his pocket, and for an inch or two thereof heneed not fear the want of a guide by day or night. "

[7] Flesh boiled in large slices, sun-dried, broken to pieces and fried inghee. 

[8] The Bahr Assal or Salt Lake, near Tajurrah, annually sends into theinterior thousands of little matted parcels containing this necessary. Inland, the Bedouins will rub a piece upon the tongue before eating, orpass about a lump, as the Dutch did with sugar in the last war; at Harar adonkey-load is the price of a slave; and the Abyssinians say of a_millionaire_ "he eateth salt. "

[9] The element found upon the maritime plain is salt or brackish. Thereis nothing concerning which the African traveller should be so particularas water; bitter with nitre, and full of organic matter, it causes allthose dysenteric diseases which have made research in this part of theworld a Upas tree to the discoverer. Pocket filters are invaluable. Thewater of wells should be boiled and passed through charcoal; and even thenit might be mixed to a good purpose with a few drops of proof spirit. TheSomal generally carry their store in large wickerwork pails. I preferredskins, as more portable and less likely to taint the water. 

[10] Here, as in Arabia, boxes should be avoided, the Bedouins alwaysbelieve them to contain treasures. Day after day I have been obliged todisplay the contents to crowds of savages, who amused themselves bylifting up the case with loud cries of "hoo! hoo!! hoo!!!" (the popularexclamation of astonishment), and by speculating upon the probable amountof dollars contained therein. 

[11] The following list of my expenses may perhaps be useful to futuretravellers. It must be observed that, had the whole outfit been purchasedat Aden, a considerable saving would have resulted:--

 Cos. Rs. Passage money from Aden to Zayla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Presents at Zayla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Price of four mules with saddles and bridles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Price of four camels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Provisions (tobacco, rice, dates &c. ) for three months. . . . . . 428 Price of 150 Tobes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 Nine pieces of indigo-dyed cotton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Minor expenses (cowhides for camels, mats for tents, presents to Arabs, a box of beads, three handsome Abyssinian Tobes bought for chiefs). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Expenses at Berberah, and passage back to Aden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 ---- Total Cos. Rs. 1490 = L149 ====

[12] I shall frequently use Somali terms, not to display my scantyknowledge of the dialect, but because they perchance may prove serviceableto my successors. 

[13] The Somal always "side-line" their horses and mules with stout stiffleathern thongs provided with loops and wooden buttons; we found them uponthe whole safer than lariats or tethers. 

[14] Arabs hate "El Sifr" or whistling, which they hold to be the chit-chat of the Jinns. Some say that the musician's mouth is not to bepurified for forty days; others that Satan, touching a man's person, causes him to produce the offensive sound. The Hejazis objected toBurckhardt that he could not help talking to devils, and walking about theroom like an unquiet spirit. The Somali has no such prejudice. Like theKafir of the Cape, he passes his day whistling to his flocks and herds;moreover, he makes signals by changing the note, and is skilful inimitating the song of birds. 

[15] In this country camels foal either in the Gugi (monsoon), or duringthe cold season immediately after the autumnal rains. 

[16] The shepherd's staff is a straight stick about six feet long, with acrook at one end, and at the other a fork to act as a rake. 

[17] These utensils will be described in a future chapter. 

[18] The settled Somal have a holy horror of dogs, and, Wahhabi-like, treat man's faithful slave most cruelly. The wild people are more humane;they pay two ewes for a good colley, and demand a two-year-old sheep as"diyat" or blood-money for the animal, if killed. 

[19] Vultures and percnopters lie upon the wing waiting for the garbage ofthe kraals; consequently they are rare near the cow-villages, whereanimals are not often killed. 

[20] They apply this term to all but themselves; an Indian trader who hadtravelled to Harar, complained to me that he had always been called aFrank by the Bedouins in consequence of his wearing Shalwar or drawers. 

[21] Generally it is not dangerous to write before these Bedouins, as theyonly suspect account-keeping, and none but the educated recognise asketch. The traveller, however, must be on his guard: in the remotestvillages he will meet Somal who have returned to savage life aftervisiting the Sea-board, Arabia, and possibly India or Egypt. 

[22] I have often observed this ceremony performed upon a new turban orother article of attire; possibly it may be intended as a mark ofcontempt, assumed to blind the evil eye. 

[23] Such is the general form of the Somali grave. Sometimes two stumps ofwood take the place of the upright stones at the head and foot, and aroundone grave I counted twenty trophies. 

[24] Some braves wear above the right elbow an ivory armlet called Fol orAj: in the south this denotes the elephant-slayer. Other Eesa clans asserttheir warriorhood by small disks of white stone, fashioned like rings, andfitted upon the little finger of the left hand. Others bind a bit of redcloth round the brow. 

[25] It is sufficient for a Bedouin to look at the general appearance ofan animal; he at once recognises the breed. Each clan, however, in thispart of Eastern Africa has its own mark. 

[26] They found no better word than "fire" to denote my gun. 

[27] "Oddai", an old man, corresponds with the Arab Shaykh in etymology. The Somal, however, give the name to men of all ages after marriage. 

[28] The "Dihh" is the Arab "Wady", --a fiumara or freshet. "Webbe" (Obbay, Abbai, &c. ) is a large river; "Durdur", a running stream. 

[29] I saw these Dihhs only in the dry season; at times the torrent mustbe violent, cutting ten or twelve feet deep into the plain. 

[30] The name is derived from Kuranyo, an ant: it means the "place ofants, " and is so called from the abundance of a tree which attracts them. 

[31] The Arabs call these pillars "Devils, " the Somal "Sigo. "

[32] The Cape Kafirs have the same prejudice against fish, comparing itsflesh, to that of serpents. In some points their squeamishness resemblesthat of the Somal: he, for instance, who tastes the Rhinoceros Simus is atonce dubbed "Om Fogazan" or outcast. 

[33] This superstition may have arisen from the peculiarity that thecamel's milk, however fresh, if placed upon the fire, breaks like somecows' milk. 

[34] "Bori" in Southern Arabia popularly means a water-pipe: here it isused for tobacco. 

[35] "Goban" is the low maritime plain lying below the "Bor" or Ghauts, and opposed to Ogu, the table-land above. "Ban" is an elevated grassyprairie, where few trees grow; "Dir, " a small jungle, called Haija by theArabs; and Khain is a forest or thick bush. "Bor, " is a mountain, rock, orhill: a stony precipice is called "Jar, " and the high clay banks of aravine "Gebi. "

[36] Snakes are rare in the cities, but abound in the wilds of EasternAfrica, and are dangerous to night travellers, though seldom seen by day. To kill a serpent is considered by the Bedouins almost as meritorious asto slay an Infidel. The Somal have many names for the reptile tribe. TheSubhanyo, a kind of whipsnake, and a large yellow rock snake called Got, are little feared. The Abesi (in Arabic el Hayyeh, --the Cobra) is sovenomous that it kills the camel; the Mas or Hanash, and a long blacksnake called Jilbis, are considered equally dangerous. Serpents are inSomali-land the subject of many superstitions. One horn of the Cerastes, for instance, contains a deadly poison: the other, pounded and drawnacross the eye, makes man a seer and reveals to him the treasures of theearth. There is a flying snake which hoards precious stones, and isattended by a hundred guards: a Somali horseman once, it is said, carriedaway a jewel; he was pursued by a reptile army, and although he escaped tohis tribe, the importunity of the former proprietors was so great that theplunder was eventually restored to them. Centipedes are little feared;their venom leads to inconveniences more ridiculous than dangerous. Scorpions, especially the large yellow variety, are formidable in hotweather: I can speak of the sting from experience. The first symptom is asensation of nausea, and the pain shoots up after a few minutes to thegroin, causing a swelling accompanied by burning and throbbing, which lastabout twelve hours. The Somal bandage above the wound and wait patientlytill the effect subsides. 

[37] These are tightened in case of accident, and act as superiorligatures. I should, however, advise every traveller in these regions toprovide himself with a pneumatic pump, and not to place his trust in Zaal, garlic, or opium. 

[38] The grey rat is called by the Somal "Baradublay:" in Eastern Africait is a minor plague, after India and Arabia, where, neglecting to sleepin boots, I have sometimes been lamed for a week by their venomous bites. 

[39] In this country the jackal attends not upon the lion, but the Waraba. His morning cry is taken as an omen of good or evil according to the note. 

[40] Of this bird, a red and long-legged plover, the Somal tell thefollowing legend. Originally her diet was meat, and her society birds ofprey: one night, however, her companions having devoured all theprovisions whilst she slept, she swore never to fly with friends, never toeat flesh, and never to rest during the hours of darkness. When she seesanything in the dark she repeat her oaths, and, according to the Somal, keeps careful watch all night. There is a larger variety of this bird, which, purblind daring daytime, rises from under the traveller's feet withloud cries. The Somal have superstitions similar to that above noticedabout several kinds of birds. When the cry of the "Galu" (so called fromhis note Gal! Gal! come in! come in!) is heard over a kraal, the peoplesay, "Let us leave this place, the Galu hath spoken!" At night they listenfor the Fin, also an ill-omened bird: when a man declares "the Fin did notsleep last night, " it is considered advisable to shift ground. 

[41] Throughout this country ostriches are exceedingly wild: the Rev. Mr. Erhardt, of the Mombas Mission, informs me that they are equally sofarther south. The Somal stalk them during the day with camels, and killthem with poisoned arrows. It is said that about 3 P. M. The birds leavetheir feeding places, and traverse long distances to roost: the peopleassert that they are blind at night, and rise up under the pursuer's feet. 

[42] Several Acacias afford gums, which the Bedouins eat greedily tostrengthen themselves. The town's people declare that the food producesnothing but flatulence. 

[43] "Subhan' Allah!" an exclamation of pettishness or displeasure. 

[44] The hills not abounding in camels, like the maritime regions, assesbecome the principal means of transport. 

[45] This barbarous practice is generally carried out in cases of small-pox where contagion is feared. 

[46] Fear--danger; it is a word which haunts the traveller in Somali-land. 

[47] The Somali Tol or Tul corresponds with the Arabic Kabilah, a tribe:under it is the Kola or Jilib (Ar. Fakhizah), a clan. "Gob, " is synonymouswith the Arabic Kabail, "men of family, " opposed to "Gum, " the caste-less. In the following pages I shall speak of the Somali _nation_, the Eesatribe, the Rer Musa _clan_, and the Rer Galan _sept_, though by no meanssure that such verbal gradation is generally recognised. 

[48] The Eesa, for instance, are divided into--

 1. Rer Wardik (the royal clan). 6. Rer Hurroni. 2. Rer Abdullah. 7. Rer Urwena. 3. Rer Musa. 8. Rer Furlabah. 4. Rer Mummasan. 9. Rer Gada. 5. Rer Guleni. 10. Rer Ali Addah. 

These are again subdivided: the Rer Musa (numbering half the Eesa), splitup, for instance, into--

 1. Rer Galan. 4. Rer Dubbah. 2. Rer Harlah. 5. Rer Kul. 3. Rer Gadishah. 6. Rer Gedi. 

[49] Traces of this turbulent equality may be found amongst the slavishKafirs in general meetings of the tribe, on the occasion of harvest home, when the chief who at other times destroys hundreds by a gesture, isabused and treated with contempt by the youngest warrior. 

[50] "Milk-seller. "

[51] For instance, Anfarr, the "Spotted;" Tarren, "Wheat-flour;" &c. &c. 

[52] It is used by the northern people, the Abyssinians, Gallas, Adail, Eesa and Gudabirsi; the southern Somal ignore it. 

[53] The most dangerous disease is small-pox, which history traces toEastern Abyssinia, where it still becomes at times a violent epidemic, sweeping off its thousands. The patient, if a man of note, is placed uponthe sand, and fed with rice or millet bread till he recovers or dies. Thechicken-pox kills many infants; they are treated by bathing in the freshblood of a sheep, covered with the skin, and exposed to the sun. Smoke andglare, dirt and flies, cold winds and naked extremities, cause ophthalmia, especially in the hills; this disease rarely blinds any save the citizens, and no remedy is known. Dysentery is cured by rice and sour milk, patientsalso drink clarified cows' butter; and in bad cases the stomach iscauterized, fire and disease, according to the Somal, never coexisting. Haemorroids, when dry, are reduced by a stick used as a bougie and allowedto remain in loco all night. Sometimes the part affected is cupped with ahorn and knife, or a leech performs excision. The diet is camels' orgoats' flesh and milk; clarified butter and Bussorab dates--rice andmutton are carefully avoided. For a certain local disease, they use sennaor colocynth, anoint the body with sulphur boiled in ghee, and expose itto the sun, or they leave the patient all night in the dew;--abstinenceand perspiration generally effect a cure. For the minor form, theafflicted drink the melted fat of a sheep's tail. Consumption is a familycomplaint, and therefore considered incurable; to use the Somaliexpression, they address the patient with "Allah, have mercy upon thee!"not with "Allah cure thee!"

There are leeches who have secret simples for curing wounds. Generally theblood is squeezed out, the place is washed with water, the lips are sewnup and a dressing of astringent leaves is applied. They have splints forfractures, and they can reduce dislocations. A medical friend at Adenpartially dislocated his knee, which half-a-dozen of the faculty insistedupon treating as a sprain. Of all his tortures none was more severe thanthat inflicted by my Somali visitors. They would look at him, distinguishthe complaint, ask him how long he had been invalided, and hearing thereply--four months--would break into exclamations of wonder. "In ourcountry, " they cried, "when a man falls, two pull his body and two hislegs, then they tie sticks round it, give him plenty of camel's milk, andhe is well in a month;" a speech which made friend S. Groan in spirit. 

Firing and clarified butter are the farrier's panaceas. Camels are curedby sheep's head broth, asses by chopping one ear, mules by cutting off thetail, and horses by ghee or a drench of melted fat. 

CHAP. VI. 

FROM THE ZAYLA HILLS TO THE MARAR PRAIRIE. 

I have now, dear L. , quitted the maritime plain or first zone, to enterthe Ghauts, that threshold of the Ethiopian highlands which, beginning atTajurrah, sweeps in semicircle round the bay of Zayla, and falls aboutBerberah into the range of mountains which fringes the bold Somali coast. This chain has been inhabited, within History's memory, by three distinctraces, --the Gallas, the ancient Moslems of Adel, and by the modern Somal. As usual, however, in the East, it has no general vernacular name. [1]

The aspect of these Ghauts is picturesque. The primitive base consists ofmicaceous granite, with veins of porphyry and dykes of the purest whitequartz: above lie strata of sandstone and lime, here dun, there yellow, orof a dull grey, often curiously contorted and washed clear of vegetablesoil by the heavy monsoon. On these heights, which are mostly conoid withrounded tops, joined by ridges and saddlebacks, various kinds of Acaciacast a pallid and sickly green, like the olive tree upon the hills ofProvence. They are barren in the cold season, and the Nomads migrate tothe plains: when the monsoon covers them with rich pastures, the peoplerevisit their deserted kraals. The Kloofs or ravines are the mostremarkable features of this country: in some places the sides riseperpendicularly, like gigantic walls, the breadth varying from one hundredyards to half a mile; in others cliffs and scaurs, sapped at theirfoundations, encumber the bed, and not unfrequently a broad band of whitesand stretches between two fringes of emerald green, delightful to lookupon after the bare and ghastly basalt of Southern Arabia. The Jujubegrows to a height already betraying signs of African luxuriance: throughits foliage flit birds, gaudy-coloured as kingfishers, of vivid red, yellow, and changing-green. I remarked a long-tailed jay called Gobiyan orFat [2], russet-hued ringdoves, the modest honey-bird, corn quails, canary-coloured finches, sparrows gay as those of Surinam, humming-birdswith a plume of metallic lustre, and especially a white-eyed kind ofmaina, called by the Somal, Shimbir Load or the cow-bird. The Armo-creeper[3], with large fleshy leaves, pale green, red, or crimson, and clustersof bright berries like purple grapes, forms a conspicuous ornament in thevalleys. There is a great variety of the Cactus tribe, some growing to theheight of thirty and thirty-five feet: of these one was particularlypointed out to me. The vulgar Somal call it Guraato, the more learnedShajarat el Zakkum: it is the mandrake of these regions, and the roundexcrescences upon the summits of its fleshy arms are supposed to resemblemen's heads and faces. On Tuesday the 5th December we arose at 6 A. M. , after a night so dewy that our clothes were drenched, and we began toascend the Wady Darkaynlay, which winds from east to south. After anhour's march appeared a small cairn of rough stones, called Siyaro, orMazar [4], to which each person, in token of honor, added his quotum. TheAbban opined that Auliya or holy men had sat there, but the End of Timemore sagaciously conjectured that it was the site of some Galla idol orsuperstitious rite. Presently we came upon the hills of the White Ant [5], a characteristic feature in this part of Africa. Here the land has theappearance of a Turkish cemetery on a grand scale: there it seems like acity in ruins: in some places the pillars are truncated into a resemblanceto bee-hives, in others they cluster together, suggesting the idea of aportico; whilst many of them, veiled by trees, and overrun with gaycreepers, look like the remains of sylvan altars. Generally the hills areconical, and vary in height from four to twelve feet: they are counted byhundreds, and the Somal account for the number by declaring that theinsects abandon their home when dry, and commence building another. Theolder erections are worn away, by wind and rain, to a thin tapering spire, and are frequently hollowed and arched beneath by rats and groundsquirrels. The substance, fine yellow mud, glued by the secretions of theant, is hard to break: it is pierced, sieve-like, by a network of tinyshafts. I saw these hills for the first time in the Wady Darkaynlay: inthe interior they are larger and longer than near the maritime regions. 

We travelled up the Fiumara in a southerly direction till 8 A. M. , when theguides led us away from the bed. They anticipated meeting Gudabirsis:pallid with fear, they also trembled with cold and hunger. Anxiousconsultations were held. One man, Ali--surnamed "Doso, " because he didnothing but eat, drink, and stand over the fire--determined to leave us:as, however, he had received a Tobe for pay, we put a veto upon thatproceeding. After a march of two hours, over ground so winding that we hadnot covered more than three miles, our guides halted under a tree, near adeserted kraal, at a place called El Armo, the "Armo-creeper water, " ormore facetiously Dabadalashay: from Damal it bore S. W. 190°. One of ourBedouins, mounting a mule, rode forward to gather intelligence, and bringback a skin full of water. I asked the End of Time what they expected tohear: he replied with the proverb "News liveth!" The Somali Bedouins havea passion for knowing how the world wags. In some of the more desertregions the whole population of a village will follow the wanderer. Notraveller ever passes a kraal without planting spear in the ground, anddemanding answers to a lengthened string of queries: rather than missintelligence he will inquire of a woman. Thus it is that news fliesthrough the country. Among the wild Gudabirsi the Russian war was a topicof interest, and at Harar I heard of a violent storm, which had damagedthe shipping in Bombay Harbour, but a few weeks after the event. 

The Bedouin returned with an empty skin but a full budget. I will offeryou, dear L. , a specimen of the "palaver" [6] which is supposed to provethe aphorism that all barbarians are orators. Demosthenes leisurelydismounts, advances, stands for a moment cross-legged--the favouriteposture in this region--supporting each hand with a spear planted in theground: thence he slips to squat, looks around, ejects saliva, shifts hisquid to behind his ear, places his weapons before him, takes up a bit ofstick, and traces lines which he carefully smooths away--it being ill-omened to mark the earth. The listeners sit gravely in a semicircle upontheir heels, with their spears, from whose bright heads flashes a ring oftroubled light, planted upright, and look stedfastly on his countenanceover the upper edges of their shields with eyes apparently planted, likethose of the Blemmyes, in their breasts. When the moment for delivery iscome, the head man inquires, "What is the news?" The informant wouldcommunicate the important fact that he has been to the well: he proceedsas follows, noting emphasis by raising his voice, at times about sixnotes, and often violently striking at the ground in front. 

"It is good news, if Allah please!"

"Wa Sidda!"--Even so! respond the listeners, intoning or rather groaningthe response. 

"I mounted mule this morning:"

"Even so!"

"I departed from ye riding. "

"Even so!"

"_There_" (with a scream and pointing out the direction with a stick). 

"Even so!"

"_There_ I went. "

"Even so!"

"I threaded the wood. "

"Even so!"

"I traversed the sands. "

"Even so!"

"I feared nothing. "

"Even so!"

"At last I came upon cattle tracks. "

"Hoo! hoo!! hoo!!!" (an ominous pause follows this exclamation ofastonishment. )

"They were fresh. "

"Even so!"

"So were the earths. "

"Even so!"

"I distinguished the feet of women. "

"Even so!"

"But there were no camels. "

"Even so!"

"At last I saw sticks"--

"Even so!"

"Stones"--

"Even so!"

"Water"--

"Even so!"

"A well!!!"

Then follows the palaver, wherein, as occasionally happens further West, he distinguishes himself who can rivet the attention of the audience forat least an hour without saying anything in particular. The advantage of_their_ circumlocution, however, is that by considering a subject in everypossible light and phase as regards its cause and effect, antecedents, actualities, and consequences, they are prepared for any emergency which, without the palaver, might come upon them unawares. 

Although the thermometer showed summer heat, the air was cloudy and rawblasts poured down from the mountains. At half past 3 P. M. Our camels werelazily loaded, and we followed the course of the Fiumara, which runs tothe W. And S. W. After half an hour's progress, we arrived at the gully inwhich are the wells, and the guides halted because they descried half-a-dozen youths and boys bathing and washing their Tobes. All, cattle as wellas men, were sadly thirsty: many of us had been chewing pebbles during themorning, yet, afraid of demands for tobacco, the Bedouins would havepursued the march without water had I not forced them to halt. We foundthree holes in the sand; one was dry, a second foul, and the thirdcontained a scanty supply of the pure element from twenty to twenty-fivefeet below the surface. A youth stood in the water and filled a wicker-pail, which he tossed to a companion perched against the side half way up:the latter in his turn hove it to a third, who catching it at the brink, threw the contents, by this time half wasted, into the skin cattle trough. We halted about half an hour to refresh man and beast, and then resumedour way up the Wady, quitting it where a short cut avoids the frequentwindings of the bed. This operation saved but little time; the ground wasstony, the rough ascents fatigued the camels, and our legs and feet werelacerated by the spear-like thorns. Here, the ground was overgrown withaloes [7], sometimes six feet high with pink and "pale Pomona green"leaves, bending in the line of beauty towards the ground, graceful in formas the capitals of Corinthian columns, and crowned with gay-colouredbells, but barbarously supplied with woody thorns and strong serratededges. There the Hig, an aloetic plant with a point so hard and sharp thathorses cannot cross ground where it grows, stood in bunches like thelargest and stiffest of rushes. [8] Senna sprang spontaneously on thebanks, and the gigantic Ushr or Asclepias shed its bloom upon the stonesand pebbles of the bed. My attendants occupied themselves with gatheringthe edible pod of an Acacia called Kura [9], whilst I observed the view. Frequent ant-hills gave an appearance of habitation to a desert stillcovered with the mosques and tombs of old Adel; and the shape of thecountry had gradually changed, basins and broad slopes now replacing thethickly crowded conoid peaks of the lower regions. 

As the sun sank towards the west, Long Guled complained bitterly of theraw breeze from the hills. We passed many villages, distinguished by thebarking of dogs and the bleating of flocks, on their way to the field: theunhappy Raghe, however, who had now become our _protege_, would neitherventure into a settlement, nor bivouac amongst the lions. He hurried usforwards till we arrived at a hollow called Gud, "the Hole, " whichsupplied us with the protection of a deserted kraal, where our camels, half-starved and knocked-up by an eight miles' march, were speedilyunloaded. Whilst pitching the tent, we were visited by some Gudabirsi, whoattempted to seize our Abban, alleging that he owed them a cow. We replieddoughtily, that he was under our sandals: as they continued to speak in ahigh tone, a pistol was discharged over their heads, after which theycringed like dogs. A blazing fire, a warm supper, dry beds, broad jests, and funny stories, soon restored the flagging spirits of our party. Towards night the moon dispersed the thick mists which, gathering intoclouds, threatened rain, and the cold sensibly diminished: there waslittle dew, and we should have slept comfortably had not our hungry mules, hobbled as they were, hopped about the kraal and fought till dawn. 

On the 6th December, we arose late to avoid the cold morning air, and at 7A. M. Set out over rough ground, hoping to ascend the Ghauts that day. After creeping about two miles, the camels, unable to proceed, threwthemselves upon the earth, and we unwillingly called a halt at Jiyaf, abasin below the Dobo [10] fiumara. Here, white flocks dotting the hills, and the scavengers of the air warned us that we were in the vicinity ofvillages. Our wigwam was soon full of fair-faced Gudabirsi, mostly Loajira[11] or cow-herd boys, who, according to the custom of their class, woretheir Tobes bound scarf-like round their necks. They begged us to visittheir village, and offered a heifer for each lion shot on Mount Libahlay:unhappily we could not afford time. These youths were followed by men andwomen bringing milk, sheep, and goats, for which, grass being rare, theyasked exorbitant prices, --eighteen cubits of Cutch canvass for a lamb, andtwo of blue cotton for a bottle of ghee. Amongst them was the first reallypretty face seen by me in the Somali country. The head was well formed, and gracefully placed upon a long thin neck and narrow shoulders; thehair, brow, and nose were unexceptionable, there was an arch look in theeyes of jet and pearl, and a suspicion of African protuberance about thelips, which gave the countenance an exceeding _naivete_. Her skin was awarm, rich nut-brown, an especial charm in these regions, and hermovements had that grace which suggests perfect symmetry of limb. The poorgirl's costume, a coif for the back hair, a cloth imperfectly covering thebosom, and a petticoat of hides, made no great mystery of forms: equallyrude were her ornaments; an armlet and pewter earrings, the work of someblacksmith, a necklace of white porcelain beads, and sundry talismans incases of tarnished and blackened leather. As a tribute to her prettiness Igave her some cloth, tobacco, and a bit of salt, which was rapidlybecoming valuable; her husband stood by, and, although the preference wasmarked, he displayed neither anger nor jealousy. She showed her gratitudeby bringing us milk, and by assisting us to start next morning. In theevening we hired three fresh camels [12] to carry our goods up the ascent, and killed some antelopes which, in a stew, were not contemptible. The Endof Time insisted upon firing a gun to frighten away the lions, who makenight hideous with their growls, but never put in an appearance. 

The morning cold greatly increased, and we did not start till 8 A. M. Afterhalf an hour's march up the bed of a fiumara, leading apparently to a _culde sac_ of lofty rocks in the hills, we quitted it for a rude zig-zagwinding along its left side, amongst bushes, thorn trees, and huge rocks. The walls of the opposite bank were strikingly perpendicular; in someplaces stratified, in others solid and polished by the course of streamand cascade. The principal material was a granite, so coarse, that thecomposing mica, quartz, and felspar separated into detached pieces aslarge as a man's thumb; micaceous grit, which glittered in the sunbeams, and various sandstones, abounded. The road caused us some trouble; thecamels' loads were always slipping from their mats; I found it necessaryto dismount from my mule, and, sitting down, we were stung by the largeblack ants which infest these hills. [13]

About half way up, we passed two cairns, and added to them our mite likegood Somal. After two hours of hard work the summit of this primitive passwas attained, and sixty minutes more saw us on the plateau above thehills, --the second zone of East Africa. Behind us lay the plains, of whichwe vainly sought a view: the broken ground at the foot of the mountains isbroad, and mists veiled the reeking expanse of the low country. [14] Theplateau in front of us was a wide extent of rolling ground, risingslightly towards the west; its colour was brown with a threadbare coat ofverdure, and at the bottom of each rugged slope ran a stony water-coursetrending from south-west to north-east. The mass of tangled aloes, raggedthorn, and prim-looking poison trees, [15] must once have been populous;tombs and houses of the early Moslems covered with ruins the hills andridges. 

About noon, we arrived at a spot called the Kafir's Grave. It is a squareenceinte of rude stones about one hundred yards each side; and legends saythat one Misr, a Galla chief, when dying, ordered the place to be filledseven times with she-camels destined for his Ahan or funeral feast. Thisis the fourth stage upon the direct road from Zayla to Harar: we hadwasted ten days, and the want of grass and water made us anxious about ouranimals. The camels could scarcely walk, and my mule's spine rose highbeneath the Arab pad:--such are the effects of Jilal [16], the worst oftravelling seasons in Eastern Africa. 

At 1 P. M. We unloaded under a sycamore tree, called, after a Gallachieftain [17], "Halimalah, " and giving its name to the surroundingvalley. This ancient of the forest is more than half decayed, several hugelimbs lie stretched upon the ground, whence, for reverence, no one removesthem: upon the trunk, or rather trunks, for its bifurcates, are marksdeeply cut by a former race, and Time has hollowed in the larger stem anarbour capable of containing half-a-dozen men. This holy tree was, according to the Somal, a place of prayer for the infidel, and its ancienthonors are not departed. Here, probably to commemorate the westwardprogress of the tribe, the Gudabirsi Ugaz or chief has the white canvassturban bound about his brows, and hence rides forth to witness theequestrian games in the Harawwah Valley. As everyone who passes by, visitsthe Halimalah tree, foraging parties of the Northern Eesa and the JibrilAbokr (a clan of the Habr Awal) frequently meet, and the traveller wendshis way in fear and trembling. 

The thermometer showed an altitude of 3, 350 feet: under the tree's coolshade, the climate reminded me of Southern Italy in winter. I found abutter-cup, and heard a wood-pecker [18] tapping on the hollow trunk, areminiscence of English glades. The Abban and his men urged an advance inthe afternoon. But my health had suffered from the bad water of the coast, and the camels were faint with fatigue: we therefore dismissed the hiredbeasts, carried our property into a deserted kraal, and, lighting a fire, prepared to "make all snug" for the night. The Bedouins, chattering withcold, stood closer to the comfortable blaze than ever did pater familiasin England: they smoked their faces, toasted their hands, broiled theirbacks with intense enjoyment, and waved their legs to and fro through theflame to singe away the pile, which at this season grows long. The End ofTime, who was surly, compared them to demons, and quoted the Arab'ssaying:--"Allah never bless smooth man, or hairy woman!" On the 8th ofDecember, at 8 A. M. , we travelled slowly up the Halimalah Valley, whoseclayey surface glistened with mica and quartz pebbles from the hills. Allthe trees are thorny except the Sycamore and the Asclepias. The Gub, orJujube, grows luxuriantly in thickets: its dried wood is used by women tofumigate their hair [19]: the Kedi, a tree like the porcupine, --allspikes, --supplies the Bedouins with hatchet-handles. I was shown the Abolwith its edible gum, and a kind of Acacia, here called Galol. Its barkdyes cloth a dull red, and the thorn issues from a bulb which, when youngand soft, is eaten by the Somal, when old it becomes woody, and hard as anut. At 9 A. M. We crossed the Lesser Abbaso, a Fiumara with high banks ofstiff clay and filled with large rolled stones: issuing from it, wetraversed a thorny path over ascending ground between higher hills, andcovered with large boulders and step-like layers of grit. Here appearedseveral Gudabirsi tombs, heaps of stones or pebbles, surrounded by a fenceof thorns, or an enceinte of loose blocks: in the latter, slabs are usedto make such houses as children would build in play, to denote the numberof establishments left by the deceased. The new grave is known by theconical milk-pails surmounting the stick at the head of the corpse, uponthe neighbouring tree is thrown the mat which bore the dead man to hislast home, and hard by are the blackened stones upon which his funeralfeast was cooked. At 11 A. M. We reached the Greater Abbaso, a Fiumaraabout 100 yards wide, fringed with lovely verdure and full of the antelopecalled Gurnuk: its watershed was, as usual in this region, from west andsouth-west to east and north-east. About noon we halted, having travelledeight miles from the Holy Tree. 

At half past three reloading we followed the course of the Abbaso Valley, the most beautiful spot we had yet seen. The presence of mankind, however, was denoted by the cut branches of thorn encumbering the bed: we remarkedtoo, the tracks of lions pursued by hunters, and the frequent streaks ofserpents, sometimes five inches in diameter. Towards evening, our partyclosed up in fear, thinking that they saw spears glancing through thetrees: I treated their alarm lightly, but the next day proved that it wasnot wholly imaginary. At sunset we met a shepherd who swore upon the stone[20] to bring us milk in exchange for tobacco, and presently, after a fivemiles' march, we halted in a deserted kraal on the left bank of a Fiumara. Clouds gathered black upon the hill tops, and a comfortless blast, threatening rain, warned us not to delay pitching the Gurgi. A large firewas lighted, and several guns were discharged to frighten away the lionsthat infest this place. Twice during the night our camels started up andrushed round their thorn ring in alarm. 

 * * * * *

Late in the morning of Saturday, the 9th December, I set out, accompaniedby Rirash and the End of Time, to visit some ruins a little way distantfrom the direct road. After an hour's ride we turned away from the AbbasoFiumara and entered a basin among the hills distant about sixteen milesfrom the Holy Tree. This is the site of Darbiyah Kola, --Kola's Fort, --socalled from its Galla queen. It is said that this city and its neighbourAububah fought like certain cats in Kilkenny till both were "eaten up:"the Gudabirsi fix the event at the period when their forefathers stillinhabited Bulhar on the coast, --about 300 years ago. If the date becorrect, the substantial ruins have fought a stern fight with time. Remnants of houses cumber the soil, and the carefully built wells arefilled with rubbish: the palace was pointed out to me with its walls ofstone and clay intersected by layers of woodwork. The mosque is a largeroofless building containing twelve square pillars of rude masonry, andthe Mihrab, or prayer niche, is denoted by a circular arch of tolerableconstruction. But the voice of the Muezzin is hushed for ever, andcreepers now twine around the ruined fane. The scene was still and drearyas the grave; for a mile and a half in length all was ruins--ruins--ruins. 

Leaving this dead city, we rode towards the south-west between two ruggedhills of which the loftiest summit is called Wanauli. As usual they arerich in thorns: the tall "Wadi" affords a gum useful to cloth-dyers, andthe leaves of the lofty Wumba are considered, after the Daum-palm, thebest material for mats. On the ground appeared the blue flowers of the"Man" or "Himbah, " a shrub resembling a potatoe: it bears a gay yellowapple full of brown seeds which is not eaten by the Somal. My companionsmade me taste some of the Karir berries, which in color and flavorresemble red currants: the leaves are used as a dressing to ulcers. Topping the ridge we stood for a few minutes to observe the view beforeus. Beneath our feet lay a long grassy plain-the sight must have gladdenedthe hearts of our starving mules!--and for the first time in Africa horsesappeared grazing free amongst the bushes. A little further off lay theAylonda valley studded with graves, and dark with verdure. Beyond itstretched the Wady Harawwah, a long gloomy hollow in the general level. The background was a bold sweep of blue hill, the second gradient of theHarar line, and on its summit closing the western horizon lay a goldenstreak--the Marar Prairie. Already I felt at the end of my journey. Aboutnoon, reaching a kraal, whence but that morning our Gudabirsi Abbans haddriven off their kine, we sat under a tree and with a pistol reportedarrival. Presently the elders came out and welcomed their old acquaintancethe End of Time as a distinguished guest. He eagerly inquired about thereported quarrel between the Abbans and their brother-in-law the GeradAdan. When, assured that it was the offspring of Somali imagination, herolled his head, and with dignity remarked, "What man shutteth to us, thatAllah openeth!" We complimented each other gravely upon the purity of ourintentions, --amongst Moslems a condition of success, --and not despisingsecond causes, lost no time in sending a horseman for the Abbans. Presently some warriors came out and inquired if we were of the Caravanthat was travelling last evening up a valley with laden camels. On ouranswering in the affirmative, they laughingly declared that a commando oftwelve horsemen had followed us with the intention of a sham-attack. Thisis favourite sport with the Bedouin. When however the traveller showsfright, the feint is apt to turn out a fact. On one occasion a party ofArab merchants, not understanding the "fun of the thing, " shot two Somal:the tribe had the justice to acquit the strangers, mulcting them, however, a few yards of cloth for the families of the deceased. In reply I fired apistol unexpectedly over the heads of my new hosts, and improved theoccasion of their terror by deprecating any practical facetiousness infuture. 

We passed the day under a tree: the camels escorted by my two attendants, and the women, did not arrive till sunset, having occupied about eighthours in marching as many miles. Fearing lions, we pitched inside thekraal, despite crying children, scolding wives, cattle rushing about, barking dogs, flies and ticks, filth and confinement. 

I will now attempt a description of a village in Eastern Africa. 

The Rer or Kraal [21] is a line of scattered huts on plains where thornsare rare, beast of prey scarce, and raids not expected. In the hills it issurrounded by a strong fence to prevent cattle straying: this, wheredanger induces caution, is doubled and trebled. Yet the lion willsometimes break through it, and the leopard clears it, prey in mouth witha bound. The abattis has usually four entrances which are choked up withheaps of bushes at night. The interior space is partitioned off by dwarfhedges into rings, which contain and separate the different species ofcattle. Sometimes there is an outer compartment adjoining the exteriorfence, set apart for the camels; usually they are placed in the centre ofthe kraal. Horses being most valuable are side-lined and tethered close tothe owner's hut, and rude bowers of brush and fire wood protect theweaklings of the flocks from the heat of the sun and the inclement nightbreeze. 

At intervals around and inside the outer abattis are built the Gurgi orwigwams--hemispheric huts like old bee-hives about five feet high by sixin diameter: they are even smaller in the warm regions, but they increasein size as the elevation of the country renders climate less genial. Thematerial is a framework of "Digo, " or sticks bent and hardened in thefire: to build the hut, these are planted in the ground, tied togetherwith cords, and covered with mats of two different kinds: the Aus composedof small bundles of grass neatly joined, is hard and smooth; the Kibid hasa long pile and is used as couch as well as roof. The single entrance infront is provided with one of these articles which serves as a curtain;hides are spread upon the top during the monsoon, and little heaps ofearth are sometimes raised outside to keep out wind and rain. 

The furniture is simple as the building. Three stones and a hole form thefireplace, near which sleep the children, kids, and lambs: there being nochimney, the interior is black with soot. The cow-skin couches aresuspended during the day, like arms and other articles which suffer fromrats and white ants, by loops of cord to the sides. The principalornaments are basket-work bottles, gaily adorned with beads, cowris, andstained leather. Pottery being here unknown, the Bedouins twist the fibresof a root into various shapes, and make them water-tight with the powderedbark of another tree. [22] The Han is a large wicker-work bucket, mountedin a framework of sticks, and used to contain water on journeys. The Guraf(a word derived from the Arabic "Ghurfah") is a conical-shaped vessel, used to bale out the contents of a well. The Del, or milk pail, is shapedlike two cones joined at the base by lateral thongs, the upper and smallerhalf acting as cup and cover. And finally the Wesi, or water bottle, contains the traveller's store for drinking and religious ablution. 

When the kraal is to be removed, the huts and furniture are placed uponthe camels, and the hedges and earth are sometimes set on fire, to purifythe place and deceive enemies, Throughout the country black circles ofcinders or thorn diversify the hill sides, and show an extensivepopulation. Travellers always seek deserted kraals for security ofencampment. As they swarm with vermin by night and flies by day [23], Ifrequently made strong objections to these favourite localities: theutmost conceded to me was a fresh enclosure added by a smaller hedge tothe outside abattis of the more populous cow-kraals. 

On the 10th December we halted: the bad water, the noon-day sun of 107°, and the cold mornings--51° being the average--had seriously affected myhealth. All the population flocked to see me, darkening the hut withnodding wigs and staring faces: and, --the Gudabirsi are polite knaves, --apologised for the intrusion. Men, women, and children appeared in crowds, bringing milk and ghee, meat and water, several of the elders rememberedhaving seen me at Berberah [24], and the blear-eyed maidens, who were inno wise shy, insisted upon admiring the white stranger. 

Feeling somewhat restored by repose, I started the next day, "with a tailon" to inspect the ruins of Aububah. After a rough ride over stony groundwe arrived at a grassy hollow, near a line of hills, and dismounted tovisit the Shaykh Aububah's remains. He rests under a little conical domeof brick, clay and wood, similar in construction to that of Zayla: it isfalling to pieces, and the adjoining mosque, long roofless, is overgrownwith trees, that rustle melancholy sounds in the light joyous breeze. Creeping in by a dwarf door or rather hole, my Gudabirsi guides showed mea bright object forming the key of the arch: as it shone they suspectedsilver, and the End of Time whispered a sacrilegious plan for purloiningit. Inside the vault were three graves apparently empty, and upon the darksunken floor lay several rounded stones, resembling cannon balls, and usedas weights by the more civilised Somal. Thence we proceeded to the battle-field, a broad sheet of sandstone, apparently dinted by the hoofs of mulesand horses: on this ground, which, according to my guides, was in oldendays soft and yielding, took place the great action between Aububah andDarbiyah Kola. A second mosque was found with walls in tolerable repair, but, like the rest of the place, roofless. Long Guled ascended the brokenstaircase of a small square minaret, and delivered a most ignorant andBedouin-like Azan or call to prayer. Passing by the shells of houses, weconcluded our morning's work with a visit to the large graveyard. Apparently it did not contain the bones of Moslems: long lines of stonespointed westward, and one tomb was covered with a coating of hard mortar, in whose sculptured edge my benighted friends detected magicalinscriptions. I heard of another city called Ahammed in the neighbouringhills, but did not visit it. These are all remains of Galla settlements, which the ignorance and exaggeration of the Somal fill with "writings" andsplendid edifices. 

Returning home we found that our Gudabirsi Bedouins had at length obeyedthe summons. The six sons of a noted chief, Ali Addah or White Ali, bythree different mothers, Beuh, Igah, Khayri, Nur, Ismail and Yunis, alladvanced towards me as I dismounted, gave the hand of friendship, andwelcomed me to their homes. With the exception of the first-named, a hard-featured man at least forty years old, the brothers were good-lookingyouths, with clear brown skins, regular features, and graceful figures. They entered the Gurgi when invited, but refused to eat, saying, that theycame for honor not for food. The Hajj Sharmarkay's introductory letter wasread aloud to their extreme delight, and at their solicitation, I perusedit a second and a third time; then having dismissed with sundry smallpresents, the two Abbans Raghe and Rirash, I wrote a flattering account ofthem to the Hajj, and entrusted it to certain citizens who were returningin caravan Zayla-wards, after a commercial tour in the interior. 

Before they departed, there was a feast after the Homeric fashion. A sheepwas "cut, " disembowelled, dismembered, tossed into one of our hugecaldrons, and devoured within the hour: the almost live food [25] waswashed down with huge draughts of milk. The feasters resembledWordsworth's cows, "forty feeding like one:" in the left hand they heldthe meat to their teeth, and cut off the slice in possession with longdaggers perilously close, were their noses longer and their mouths lessobtrusive. During the dinner I escaped from the place of flies, andretired to a favourite tree. Here the End of Time, seeing me still inpain, insisted upon trying a Somali medicine. He cut two pieces of drywood, scooped a hole in the shorter, and sharpened the longer, appliedpoint to socket, which he sprinkled with a little sand, placed his footupon the "female stick, " and rubbed the other between his palms till smokeand char appeared. He then cauterized my stomach vigorously in sixdifferent places, quoting a tradition, "the End of Physic is Fire. "

On Tuesday the 12th December, I vainly requested the two sons of WhiteAli, who had constituted themselves our guides, to mount their horses:they feared to fatigue the valuable animals at a season when grass is rareand dry. I was disappointed by seeing the boasted "Faras" [26] of theSomal, in the shape of ponies hardly thirteen hands high. The head ispretty, the eyes are well opened, and the ears are small; the form also isgood, but the original Arab breed has degenerated in the new climate. Theyare soft, docile, and--like all other animals in this part of the world--timid: the habit of climbing rocks makes them sure-footed, and they showthe remains of blood when forced to fatigue. The Gudabirsi will seldomsell these horses, the great safeguard against their conterminous tribes, the Eesa and Girhi, who are all infantry: a village seldom contains morethan six or eight, and the lowest value would be ten cows or twenty Tobes. [27] Careful of his beast when at rest, the Somali Bedouin in the saddleis rough and cruel: whatever beauty the animal may possess in youth, completely disappears before the fifth year, and few are without spavin, or sprained back-sinews. In some parts of the country [28], "to rideviolently to your hut two or three times before finally dismounting, isconsidered a great compliment, and the same ceremony is observed onleaving. Springing into the saddle (if he has one), with the aid of hisspear, the Somali cavalier first endeavours to infuse a little spirit intohis half-starved hack, by persuading him to accomplish a few plunges andcapers: then, his heels raining a hurricane of blows against the animal'sribs, and occasionally using his spear-point as a spur, away he gallops, and after a short circuit, in which he endeavours to show himself to thebest advantage, returns to his starting point at full speed, when theheavy Arab bit brings up the blown horse with a shock that half breaks hisjaw and fills his mouth with blood. The affection of the true Arab for hishorse is proverbial: the cruelty of the Somal to his, may, I think, beconsidered equally so. " The Bedouins practise horse-racing, and run forbets, which are contested with ardor: on solemn occasions, they have rudeequestrian games, in which they display themselves and their animals. TheGudabirsi, and indeed most of the Somal, sit loosely upon their horses. Their saddle is a demi-pique, a high-backed wooden frame, like theEgyptian fellah's: two light splinters leave a clear space for the spine, and the tree is tightly bound with wet thongs: a sheepskin shabracque isloosely spread over it, and the dwarf iron stirrup admits only the bigtoe, as these people fear a stirrup which, if the horse fall, wouldentangle the foot. Their bits are cruelly severe; a solid iron ring, as inthe Arab bridle, embracing the lower jaw, takes the place of a curb chain. Some of the head-stalls, made at Berberah, are prettily made of cutleather and bright steel ornaments like diminutive quoits. The whip is ahard hide handle, plated with zinc, and armed with a single short broadthong. 

With the two sons of White Ali and the End of Time, at 8 A. M. , on the 12thDecember, I rode forward, leaving the jaded camels in charge of mycompanions and the women. We crossed the plain in a south-westerlydirection, and after traversing rolling ground, we came to a ridge, whichcommanded an extensive view. Behind lay the Wanauli Hills, already purplein the distance. On our left was a mass of cones, each dignified by itsown name; no one, it is said, can ascend them, which probably means thatit would be a fatiguing walk. Here are the visitation-places of threecelebrated saints, Amud, Sau and Shaykh Sharlagamadi, or the "Hidden fromEvil, " To the north-west I was shown some blue peaks tenanted by the EesaSomal. In front, backed by the dark hills of Harar, lay the Harawwahvalley. The breadth is about fifteen miles: it runs from south-west tonorth-east, between the Highlands of the Girhi and the rolling ground ofthe Gudabirsi Somal, as far, it is said, as the Dankali country. Of oldthis luxuriant waste belonged to the former tribe; about twelve years agoit was taken from them by the Gudabirsi, who carried off at the same timethirty cows, forty camels, and between three and four hundred sheep andgoats. 

Large herds tended by spearmen and grazing about the bush, warned us thatwe were approaching the kraal in which the sons of White Ali were camped;at half-past 10 A. M. , after riding eight miles, we reached the place whichoccupies the lower slope of the Northern Hills that enclose the Harawwahvalley. We spread our hides under a tree, and were soon surrounded byBedouins, who brought milk, sun-dried beef, ghee and honey in one of thepainted wooden bowls exported from Cutch. After breakfast, at which theEnd of Time distinguished himself by dipping his meat into honey, we wentout gun in hand towards the bush. It swarmed with sand-antelope andGurnuk: the ground-squirrels haunted every ant-hill, hoopoos and spur-fowls paced among the thickets, in the trees we heard the frequent cry ofthe Gobiyan and the bird facetiously termed from its cry "Dobo-dogon-guswen, " and the bright-coloured hawk, the Abodi or Bakiyyah [29], lay onwing high in the cloudless air. 

When tired of killing we returned to our cow-hides, and sat inconversation with the Bedouins. They boasted of the skill with which theyused the shield, and seemed not to understand the efficiency of a sword-parry: to illustrate the novel idea I gave a stick to the best man, provided myself in the same way, and allowed him to cut at me. Afterrepeated failures he received a sounding blow upon the least bony portionof his person: the crowd laughed long and loud, and the pretending"knight-at-arms" retired in confusion. 

Darkness fell, but no caravan appeared: it had been delayed by a runawaymule, --perhaps by the desire to restrain my vagrant propensities, --and didnot arrive till midnight. My hosts cleared a Gurgi for our reception, brought us milk, and extended their hospitality to the full limits of evensavage complaisance. 

Expecting to march on the 13th December soon after dawn, I summoned Beuhand his brethren to the hut, reminding him that the Hajj had promised mean escort without delay to the village of the Gerad Adan. To my instancesthey replied that, although they were most anxious to oblige, the arrivalof Mudeh the eldest son rendered a consultation necessary; and retiring tothe woods, sat in palaver from 8 A. M. To past noon. At last they came to aresolution which could not be shaken. They would not trust one of theirnumber in the Gerad's country; a horseman, however, should carry a letterinviting the Girhi chief to visit his brothers-in-law. I was assured thatAdan would not drink water before mounting to meet us: but, fear isreciprocal, there was evidently bad blood between them, and already aknowledge of Somali customs caused me to suspect the result of ourmission. However, a letter was written reminding the Gerad of "the wordspoken under the tree, " and containing, in case of recusance, a threat tocut off the salt well at which his cows are periodically driven to drink. Then came the bargain for safe conduct. After much haggling, especially onthe part of the handsome Igah, they agreed to receive twenty Tobes, threebundles of tobacco, and fourteen cubits of indigo-dyed cotton. In additionto this I offered as a bribe one of my handsome Abyssinian shirts with afine silk fringe made at Aden, to be received by the man Beuh on the dayof entering the Gerad's village. 

I arose early in the next morning, having been promised by the Abbansgrand sport in the Harawwah Valley. The Somal had already divided theelephants' spoils: they were to claim the hero's feather, I was to receivetwo thirds of the ivory--nothing remained to be done but the killing. After sundry pretences and prayers for delay, Beuh saddled his hack, theHammal mounted one mule, a stout-hearted Bedouin called Fahi took asecond, and we started to find the herds. The End of Time lagged in therear: the reflection that a mule cannot outrun an elephant, made him lookso ineffably miserable, that I sent him back to the kraal. "Dost thoubelieve me to be a coward, 0 Pilgrim?" thereupon exclaimed the Mullah, waxing bold in the very joy of his heart. "Of a truth I do!" was my reply. Nothing abashed, he hammered his mule with heel, and departed ejaculating, "What hath man but a single life? and he who throweth it away, what is hebut a fool?" Then we advanced with cocked guns, Beuh singing, Boanerges-like, the Song of the Elephant. 

In the Somali country, as amongst the Kafirs, after murdering a man orboy, the death of an elephant is considered _the_ act of heroism: mosttribes wear for it the hair-feather and the ivory bracelet. Some hunters, like the Bushmen of the Cape [30], kill the Titan of the forests withbarbed darts carrying Waba-poison. The general way of hunting resemblesthat of the Abyssinian Agageers described by Bruce. One man mounts a whitepony, and galloping before the elephant, induces him, as he readily does, --firearms being unknown, --to charge and "chivy. " The rider directs hiscourse along, and close to, some bush, where a comrade is concealed; andthe latter, as the animal passes at speed, cuts the back sinew of the hindleg, where in the human subject the tendon Achilles would be, with asharp, broad and heavy knife. [31] This wound at first occasions littleinconvenience: presently the elephant, fancying, it is supposed, that athorn has stuck in his foot, stamps violently, and rubs the scratch tillthe sinew is fairly divided. The animal, thus disabled, is left to perishwretchedly of hunger and thirst: the tail, as amongst the Kafirs, is cutoff to serve as trophy, and the ivories are removed when loosened bydecomposition. In this part of Africa the elephant is never tamed. [32]

For six hours we rode the breadth of the Harawwah Valley: it was coveredwith wild vegetation, and surface-drains, that carry off the surplus ofthe hills enclosing it. In some places the torrent beds had cut twentyfeet into the soil. The banks were fringed with milk-bush and Asclepias, the Armo-creeper, a variety of thorns, and especially the yellow-berriedJujube: here numberless birds followed bright-winged butterflies, and the"Shaykhs of the Blind, " as the people call the black fly, settled inswarms upon our hands and faces as we rode by. The higher ground wasovergrown with a kind of cactus, which here becomes a tree, forming shadyavenues. Its quadrangular fleshy branches of emerald green, sometimesforty feet high, support upon their summits large round bunches of abright crimson berry: when the plantation is close, domes of extremebeauty appear scattered over the surface of the country. This "Hassadin"abounds in burning milk, and the Somal look downwards when passing underits branches: the elephant is said to love it, and in many places thetrees were torn to pieces by hungry trunks. The nearest approaches to gamewere the last year's earths; likely places, however, shady trees and greenthorns near water, were by no means uncommon. When we reached the valley'ssouthern wall, Beuh informed us that we might ride all day, if we pleased, with the same result. At Zayla I had been informed that elephants are"thick as sand" in Harawwah: even the Gudabirsi, when at a distance, declared that they fed there like sheep, and, after our failure, sworethat they killed thirty but last year. The animals were probably in thehigh Harirah Valley, and would be driven downwards by the cold at a laterperiod: some future Gordon Cumming may therefore succeed where the HajjAbdullah notably failed. 

On the 15th December I persuaded the valiant Beuh, with his two brothersand his bluff cousin Fahi, to cross the valley with us, After recovering amule which had strayed five miles back to the well, and composing sundryquarrels between Shehrazade, whose swains had detained her from camel-loading, and the Kalendar whose one eye flashed with indignation at herconduct, we set out in a southerly direction. An hour's march brought usto an open space surrounded by thin thorn forest: in the centre is anancient grave, about which are performed the equestrian games when theturban of the Ugaz has been bound under the Holy Tree. Shepherds issuedfrom the bush to stare at us as we passed, and stretched forth the handfor "Bori:" the maidens tripped forwards exclaiming, "Come, girls, let uslook at this prodigy!" and they never withheld an answer if civillyaddressed. Many of them were grown up, and not a few were old maids, theresult of the tribe's isolation; for here, as in Somaliland generally, theunion of cousins is abhorred. The ground of the valley is a stiff clay, sprinkled with pebbles of primitive formation: the hills are mere rocks, and the torrent banks with strata of small stones, showed a watermarkvarying from ten to fifteen feet in height: in these Fiumaras we sawfrequent traces of the Edler-game, deer and hog. At 1 P. M. Our camels andmules were watered at wells in a broad wady called Jannah-Gaban or theLittle Garden; its course, I was told, lies northwards through theHarawwah Valley to the Odla and Waruf, two depressions in the Waymacountry near Tajurrah. About half an hour afterwards we arrived at adeserted sheepfold distant six miles from our last station. Afterunloading we repaired to a neighbouring well, and found the water so hardthat it raised lumps like nettle stings in the bather's skin. The onlyremedy for the evil is an unguent of oil or butter, a precaution whichshould never be neglected by the African traveller. At first the sensationof grease annoys, after a few days it is forgotten, and at last the "patof butter" is expected as pleasantly as the pipe or the cup of coffee. Itprevents the skin from chaps and sores, obviates the evil effects of heat, cold, and wet, and neutralises the Proteus-like malaria poison. The Somalnever fail to anoint themselves when they can afford ghee, and the Bedouinis at the summit of his bliss, when sitting in the blazing sun, or, --heatacts upon these people as upon serpents, --with his back opposite a roaringfire, he is being smeared, rubbed, and kneaded by a companion. 

My guides, fearing lions and hyenas, would pass the night inside a foulsheepfold: I was not without difficulty persuaded to join them. At eightnext morning we set out through an uninteresting thorn-bush towards one ofthose Tetes or isolated hills which form admirable bench-marks in theSomali country. "Koralay, " a terra corresponding with our Saddle-back, exactly describes its shape: pommel and crupper, in the shape of two hugegranite boulders, were all complete, and between them was a depression fora seat. As day advanced the temperature changed from 50° to a maximum of121°. After marching about five miles, we halted in a broad watercoursecalled Gallajab, the "Plentiful Water": there we bathed, and dined on anexcellent camel which had broken its leg by falling from a bank. 

Resuming our march at 5 P. M. , we travelled over ascending ground whichmust be most fertile after rain: formerly it belonged to the Girhi, andthe Gudabirsi boasted loudly of their conquest. After an hour's march wereached the base of Koralay, upon whose lower slopes appeared a pair ofthe antelopes called Alakud [33]: they are tame, easily shot, and eagerlyeaten by the Bedouins. Another hour of slow travelling brought us to abroad Fiumara with high banks of stiff clay thickly wooded and showing awater-mark eighteen feet above the sand. The guides named these wellsAgjogsi, probably a generic term signifying that water is standing closeby. Crossing the Fiumara we ascended a hill, and found upon the summit alarge kraal alive with heads of kine. The inhabitants flocked out to stareat us and the women uttered cries of wonder. I advanced towards theprettiest, and fired my rifle by way of salute over her head. The peopledelighted, exclaimed, Mod! Mod!--"Honor to thee!"--and we replied withshouts of Kulliban--"May Heaven aid ye!" [34] At 5 P. M. , after five miles'march, the camels were unloaded in a deserted kraal whose high fencedenoted danger of wild beasts. The cowherds bade us beware of lions: but aday before a girl had been dragged out of her hut, and Moslem burial couldbe given to only one of her legs. A Bedouin named Uddao, whom we hired asmule-keeper, was ordered to spend the night singing, and, as is customarywith Somali watchmen, to address and answer himself dialogue-wise with adifferent voice, in order to persuade thieves that several men are on thealert. He was a spectacle of wildness as he sat before the blazing fire, --his joy by day, his companion and protector in the shades, the only stepmade by him in advance of his brethren the Cynocephali. 

We were detained four days at Agjogsi by the nonappearance of the GeradAdan: this delay gave me an opportunity of ascending to the summit ofKoralay the Saddleback, which lay about a mile north of our encampment. Aswe threaded the rocks and hollows of the side we came upon dens strewedwith cows' bones, and proving by a fresh taint that the tenants had latelyquitted them. In this country the lion is seldom seen unless surprisedasleep in his lair of thicket: during my journey, although at times theroaring was heard all night, I saw but one. The people have a superstitionthat the king of beasts will not attack a single traveller, because such aperson, they say, slew the mother of all the lions: except in darkness orduring violent storms, which excite the fiercer carnivors, he is a timidanimal, much less feared by the people than the angry and agile leopard. Unable to run with rapidity when pressed by hunger, he pursues a party oftravellers stealthily as a cat, and, arrived within distance, springs, strikes down the hindermost, and carries him away to the bush. 

From the summit of Koralay, we had a fair view of the surrounding country. At least forty kraals, many of them deserted, lay within the range ofsight. On all sides except the north-west and south-east was a mass ofsombre rock and granite hill: the course of the valleys between theseveral ranges was denoted by a lively green, and the plains scattered inpatches over the landscape shone with dull yellow, the effect of clay andstubble, whilst a light mist encased the prospect in a circlet of blue andsilver. Here the End of Time conceived the jocose idea of crowning me kingof the country. With loud cries of Buh! Buh! Buh! he showered leaves of agum tree and a little water from a prayer bottle over my head, and thenwith all solemnity bound on the turban. [35] It is perhaps fortunate thatthis facetiousness was not witnessed: a crowd of Bedouins assembled belowthe hill, suspecting as usual some magical practices, and, had they knownthe truth, our journey might have ended abruptly. Descending, I foundporcupines' quills in abundance [36], and shot a rock pigeon called Elal-jog--the "Dweller at wells. " At the foot a "Baune" or Hyrax Abyssinicus, resembling the Coney of Palestine [37], was observed at its favouritepastime of sunning itself upon the rocks. 

On the evening of the 20th December the mounted messenger returned, aftera six hours' hard ride, bringing back unopened the letter addressed by meto the Gerad, and a private message from their sister to the sons of WhiteAli, advising them not to advance. Ensued terrible palavers. It appearedthat the Gerad was upon the point of mounting horse, when his subjectsswore him to remain and settle a dispute with the Amir of Harar. OurAbbans, however, withdrew their hired camels, positively refuse toaccompany us, and Beuh privily informed the End of Time that I hadacquired through the land the evil reputation of killing everything, froman elephant to a bird in the air. One of the younger brethren, indeed, declared that we were forerunners of good, and that if the Gerad harmed ahair of our heads, he would slaughter every Girhi under the sun. We had, however, learned properly to appreciate such vaunts, and the End of Timedrily answered that their sayings were honey but their doings myrrh. Beinga low-caste and a shameless tribe, they did not reply to our reproaches. At last, a manoeuvre was successful: Beuh and his brethren, who squattedlike sulky children in different places, were dismissed with thanks, --weproposed placing ourselves under the safeguard of Gerad Hirsi, the Berterichief. This would have thrown the protection-price, originally intendedfor their brother-in-law, into the hands of a rival, and had the effect ofaltering their resolve. Presently we were visited by two Widad or hedge-priests, Ao Samattar and Ao Nur [38], both half-witted fellows, but activeand kindhearted. The former wore a dirty turban, the latter a Zebid cap, awicker-work calotte, composed of the palm leaf's mid-rib: they carrieddressed goatskins, as prayer carpets, over their right shoulders dangledhuge wooden ink bottles with Lauh or wooden tablets for writing talismans[39], and from the left hung a greasy bag, containing a tattered copy ofthe Koran and a small MS. Of prayers. They read tolerably, but did notunderstand Arabic, and I presented them with cheap Bombay lithographs ofthe Holy Book. The number of these idlers increased as we approachedHarar, the Alma Mater of Somali land:--the people seldom listen to theiradvice, but on this occasion Ao Samattar succeeded in persuading thevaliant Beuh that the danger was visionary. Soon afterwards rode up to ourkraal three cavaliers, who proved to be sons of Adam, the future Ugaz ofthe Gudabirsi tribe: this chief had fully recognized the benefits ofreopening to commerce a highway closed by their petty feuds, and sent tosay that, in consequence of his esteem for the Hajj Sharmarkay, if thesons of White Ali feared to escort us, he in person would do the deed. Thereupon Beuh became a "Gesi" or hero, as the End of Time ironicallycalled him: he sent back his brethren with their horses and camels, andvalorously prepared to act as our escort. I tauntingly asked him what henow thought of the danger. For all reply he repeated the words, with whichthe Bedouins--who, like the Arabs, have a holy horror of towns--had beendinning daily into my ears, "They will spoil that white skin of thine atHarar!"

At 3 P. M. , on the 21st December, we started in a westerly directionthrough a gap in the hills, and presently turned to the south-west, overrapidly rising ground, thickly inhabited, and covered with flocks andherds. About 5 P. M. , after marching two miles, we raised our wigwamoutside a populous kraal, a sheep was provided by the hospitality of AoSamattar, and we sat deep into the night enjoying a genial blaze. 

Early the next morning we had hoped to advance: water, however, waswanting, and a small caravan was slowly gathering;--these details delayedus till 4 P. M. Our line lay westward, over rising ground, towards aconspicuous conical hill called Konti. Nothing could be worse for camelsthan the rough ridges at the foot of the mountain, full of thickets, cutby deep Fiumaras, and abounding in dangerous watercourses: the burdensslipped now backwards then forwards, sometimes the load was almost draggedoff by thorns, and at last we were obliged to leave one animal to followslowly in the rear. After creeping on two miles, we bivouacked in adeserted cow-kraal, --_sub dio_, as it was warm under the hills. Thatevening our party was increased by a Gudabirsi maiden in search of ahusband: she was surlily received by Shehrazade and Deenarzade, but weinsisted upon her being fed, and superintended the operation. Her style ofeating was peculiar; she licked up the rice from the hollow of her hand. Next morning she was carried away in our absence, greatly against herwill, by some kinsmen who had followed her. 

And now, bidding adieu to the Gudabirsi, I will briefly sketch the tribe. 

The Gudabirsi, or Gudabursi, derive themselves from Dir and Aydur, thusclaiming affinity with the Eesa: others declare their tribe to be anoffshoot from the Bahgoba clan of the Habr Awal, originally settled nearJebel Almis, and Bulhar, on the sea-shore. The Somal unhesitatinglystigmatize them as a bastard and ignoble race: a noted genealogist onceinformed me, that they were little better than Midgans or serviles. Theirancestors' mother, it is said, could not name the father of her child:some proposed to slay it, others advocated its preservation, saying, "Perhaps we shall increase by it!" Hence the name of the tribe. [40]

The Gudabirsi are such inveterate liars that I could fix for them nonumber between 3000 and 10, 000. They own the rough and rolling grounddiversified with thorny hill and grassy vale, above the first or seawardrange of mountains; and they have extended their lands by conquest towardsHarar, being now bounded in that direction by the Marar Prairie. As usual, they are subdivided into a multitude of clans. [41]

In appearance the Gudabirsi are decidedly superior to their limitrophesthe Eesa. I have seen handsome faces amongst the men as well as the women. Some approach closely to the Caucasian type: one old man, with olive-coloured skin, bald brow, and white hair curling round his temples, andocciput, exactly resembled an Anglo-Indian veteran. Generally, however, the prognathous mouth betrays an African origin, and chewing tobacco mixedwith ashes stains the teeth, blackens the gums, and mottles the lips. Thecomplexion is the Abyssinian _cafe au lait_, contrasting strongly with thesooty skins of the coast; and the hair, plentifully anointed with rancidbutter, hangs from the head in lank corkscrews the colour of a Russianpointer's coat. The figure is rather squat, but broad and well set. 

The Gudabirsi are as turbulent and unmanageable, though not sobloodthirsty, as the Eesa. Their late chief, Ugaz Roblay of the BaitSamattar sept, left children who could not hold their own: the turban wasat once claimed by a rival branch, the Rer Abdillah, and a civil warensued. The lovers of legitimacy will rejoice to hear that when I left thecountry, Galla, son of the former Prince Rainy, was likely to come to hisown again. 

The stranger's life is comparatively safe amongst this tribe: as long ashe feeds and fees them, he may even walk about unarmed. They are, however, liars even amongst the Somal, Bobadils amongst boasters, inveteratethieves, and importunate beggars. The smooth-spoken fellows seldom betrayemotion except when cloth or tobacco is concerned; "dissimulation is asnatural to them as breathing, " and I have called one of their chiefs "dog"without exciting his indignation. 

The commerce of these wild regions is at present in a depressed state:were the road safe, traffic with the coast would be considerable. Theprofit on hides, for instance, at Aden, would be at least cent. Per cent. :the way, however, is dangerous, and detention is frequent, consequentlythe gain will not remunerate for risk and loss of time. No operation canbe undertaken in a hurry, consequently demand cannot readily be supplied. What Laing applies to Western, may be repeated of Eastern Africa: "theendeavour to accelerate an undertaking is almost certain to occasion itsfailure. " Nowhere is patience more wanted, in order to perform perfectwork. The wealth of the Gudabirsi consists principally in cattle, peltries, hides, gums, and ghee. The asses are dun-coloured, small, andweak; the camels large, loose, and lazy; the cows are pretty animals, withsmall humps, long horns, resembling the Damara cattle, and in the grazingseason with plump, well-rounded limbs; there is also a bigger breed, notunlike that of Tuscany. The standard is the Tobe of coarse canvass; worthabout three shillings at Aden, here it doubles in value. The price of agood camel varies from six to eight cloths; one Tobe buys a two-year-oldheifer, three, a cow between three and four years old. A ewe costs half acloth: the goat, although the flesh is according to the Somal nutritive, whilst "mutton is disease, " is a little cheaper than the sheep. Hides andpeltries are usually collected at and exported from Harar; on the coastthey are rubbed over with salt, and in this state carried to Aden. Cows'skins fetch a quarter of a dollar, or about one shilling in cloth, and twodollars are the extreme price for the Kurjah or score of goats' skins. Thepeople of the interior have a rude way of tanning [42]; they macerate thehide, dress, and stain it of a deep calf-skin colour with the bark of atree called Jirmah, and lastly the leather is softened with the hand. Theprincipal gum is the Adad, or Acacia Arabica: foreign merchants purchaseit for about half a dollar per Farasilah of twenty pounds: cow's andsheep's butter may fetch a dollar's worth of cloth for the measure ofthirty-two pounds. This great article of commerce is good and pure in thecountry, whereas at Berberah, the Habr Awal adulterate it, previous toexportation, with melted sheep's tails. 

The principal wants of the country which we have traversed are coarsecotton cloth, Surat tobacco, beads, and indigo-dyed stuffs for women'scoifs. The people would also be grateful for any improvement in theirbreed of horses, and when at Aden I thought of taking with me some oldArab stallions as presents to chiefs. Fortunately the project fell to theground: a strange horse of unusual size or beauty, in these regions, wouldbe stolen at the end of the first march. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] Every hill and peak, ravine and valley, will be known by some strikingepithet: as Borad, the White Hill; Libahlay, the Lions' Mountain; and soforth. 

[2] The Arabs call it Kakatua, and consider it a species of parrot. Thename Cacatoes, is given by the Cape Boers, according to Delegorgue, to theColiphymus Concolor. The Gobiyan resembles in shape and flight our magpie, it has a crest and a brown coat with patches of white, and a noisy notelike a frog. It is very cunning and seldom affords a second shot. 

[3] The berries of the Armo are eaten by children, and its leaves, whichnever dry up, by the people in times of famine; they must be boiled or theacrid juice would excoriate the mouth. 

[4] Siyaro is the Somali corruption of the Arabic Ziyarat, which, synonymous with Mazar, means a place of pious visitation. 

[5] The Somal call the insect Abor, and its hill Dundumo. 

[6] The corrupted Portuguese word used by African travellers; in theWestern regions it is called Kelder, and the Arabs term it "Kalam. "

[7] Three species of the Dar or Aloe grow everywhere in the higher regionsof the Somali country. The first is called Dar Main, the inside of itspeeled leaf is chewed when water cannot be procured. The Dar Murodi orElephant's aloe is larger and useless: the Dar Digwen or Long-earedresembles that of Socotra. 

[8] The Hig is called "Salab" by the Arabs, who use its long tough fibrefor ropes. Patches of this plant situated on moist ground at the foot ofhills, are favourite places with sand antelope, spur-fowl and other game. 

[9] The Darnel or pod has a sweetish taste, not unlike that of a witheredpea; pounded and mixed with milk or ghee, it is relished by the Bedouinswhen vegetable food is scarce. 

[10] Dobo in the Somali tongue signifies mud or clay. 

[11] The Loajira (from "Loh, " a cow) is a neatherd; the "Geljira" is theman who drives camels. 

[12] For these we paid twenty-four oubits of canvass, and two of bluecotton; equivalent to about three shillings. 

[13] The natives call them Jana; they are about three-fourths of an inchlong, and armed with stings that prick like thorns and burn violently fora few minutes. 

[14] Near Berberah, where the descents are more rapid, such panoramas arecommon. 

[15] This is the celebrated Waba, which produces the Somali Wabayo, apoison applied to darts and arrows. It is a round stiff evergreen, notunlike a bay, seldom taller than twenty feet, affecting hill sides andtorrent banks, growing in clumps that look black by the side of theAcacias; thornless, with a laurel-coloured leaf, which cattle will nottouch, unless forced by famine, pretty bunches of pinkish white flowers, and edible berries black and ripening to red. The bark is thin, the woodyellow, compact, exceedingly tough and hard, the root somewhat likeliquorice; the latter is prepared by trituration and other processes, andthe produce is a poison in substance and colour resembling pitch. 

Travellers have erroneously supposed the arrow poison of Eastern Africa tobe the sap of a Euphorbium. The following "observations accompanying asubstance procured near Aden, and used by the Somalis to poison theirarrows, " by F. S. Arnott, Esq. , M. D. , will be read with interest. 

"In February 1853, Dr. Arnott had forwarded to him a watery extractprepared from the root of a tree, described as 'Wabie, ' a toxicodendronfrom the Somali country on the Habr Gerhajis range of the Gooliesmountains. The tree grows to the height of twenty feet. The poison isobtained by boiling the root in water, until it attains the consistency ofan inspissated juice. When cool the barb of the arrow is anointed with thejuice, which, is regarded as a virulent poison, and it renders a woundtainted therewith incurable. Dr. Arnott was informed that death usuallytook place within an hour; that the hairs and nails dropped off afterdeath, and it was believed that the application of heat assisted itspoisonous qualities. He could not, however ascertain the quantity made useof by the Somalis, and doubted if the point of an arrow would convey asufficient quantity to produce such immediate effects. He had tested itspowers in some other experiments, besides the ones detailed, and althoughit failed in several instances, yet he was led to the conclusion that itwas a very powerful narcotic irritant poison. He had not, however, observed the local effect said to be produced upon the point ofinsertion. "

"The following trials were described:--

"1. A little was inserted into the inside of the ear of a sickly sheep, and death occurred in two hours. 

"2. A little was inserted into, the inside of the ear of a healthy sheep, and death occurred in two hours, preceded by convulsions. 

"3. Five grains were given to a dog; vomiting took place after an hour, and death in three or four hours. 

"4. One grain was swallowed by a fowl, but no effect produced. 

"5. Three grains were given to a sheep, but without producing any effect. 

"6. A small quantity was inserted into the ear and shoulder of a dog, butno effect was produced. 

"7. Upon the same dog two days after, the same quantity was inserted intothe thigh; death occurred in less than two hours. 

"8. Seven grains were given to a sheep without any effect whatever. 

"9. To a dog five grains were administered, but it was rejected byvomiting; this was again repeated on the following day, with the sameresult. On the same day four grains were inserted into a wound upon thesame dog; it produced violent effects in ten, and death in thirty-five, minutes. 

"10. To a sheep two grains in solution were given without any effect beingproduced. The post-mortem appearances observed were, absence of all tracesof inflammation, collapse of the lungs, and distension of the cavities ofthe heart. "

Further experiments of the Somali arrow poison by B. Haines, M. B. , assistant surgeon (from Transactions of the Medical and Physical Societyof Bombay. No. 2. New series 1853-1854. )

"Having while at Ahmednuggur received from the secretary a small quantityof Somali arrow poison, alluded to by Mr. Vaughan in his notes on articlesof the Materia Medica, and published in the last volume of the Society'sTransactions, and called 'Wabie, ' the following experiments were made withit:--

"September 17th. 1. A small healthy rabbit was taken, and the skin overthe hip being divided, a piece of the poisonous extract about the size ofa corn of wheat was inserted into the cellular tissue beneath: thirtyminutes afterwards, seems disinclined to move, breathing quicker, passed **: one hour, again passed * * * followed by * * *; has eaten a little: onehour and a half, appears quite to have recovered from his uneasiness, andhas become as lively as before. (This rabbit was made use of three daysafterwards for the third experiment. )

"2. A full-grown rabbit. Some of the poison being dissolved in water aportion of the solution corresponding to about fifteen grains was injectedinto an opening in the peritoneum, so large a quantity being used, inconsequence of the apparent absence of effect in the former case: fiveminutes, he appears to be in pain, squeaking occasionally; slightconvulsive retractions of the head and neck begin to take place, passed asmall quantity of * *: ten minutes, the spasms are becoming more frequent, but are neither violent nor prolonged, respiration scarcely perceptible;he now fell on his side: twelve minutes, several severe generalconvulsions came on, and at the end of another minute he was quite dead, the pulsation being for the last minute quite imperceptible. The chest wasinstantly opened, but there was no movement of the heart whatever. 

"September 20th. 3. The rabbit used for the first experiment was taken andan attempt was made to inject a little filtered solution into the jugularrein, which failed from the large size of the nozzle of the syringe; agood deal of blood was lost. A portion of the solution corresponding toabout two grains and a half of the poison was then injected into a smallopening made in the pleura. Nine minutes afterwards: symptoms preciselyresembling those in number two began to appear. Fourteen minutes:convulsions more violent; fell on his side. Sixteen minutes, died. 

"4. A portion of the poison, as much as could be applied, was smeared overthe square iron head of an arrow, and allowed to dry. The arrow was thenshot into the buttock of a goat with sufficient force to carry the headout of sight; twenty minutes afterwards, no effect whatever havingfollowed, the arrow was extracted. The poison had become softened and waswiped completely off two of the sides, and partly off the two other sides. The animal appeared to suffer very little pain from the wound; he was keptfor a fortnight, and then died, but not apparently from any causeconnected with the wound. In fact he was previously diseased. Unfortunately the seat of the wound was not then examined, but a few dayspreviously it appeared to have healed of itself. In the rabbit of theformer experiment, three days after the insertion of the poison in thewound, the latter was closed with a dry coagulum and presented no marks ofinflammation around it. 

"5. Two good-sized village dogs being secured, to each after severalhours' fasting, were given about five grains enveloped in meat. Thesmaller one chewed it a long time, and frothed much at the mouth. Heappeared to swallow very little of it, but the larger one ate the whole upwithout difficulty. After more than two hours no effect whatever beingperceptible in either animal, they were shot to get rid of them. Theseexperiments, though not altogether complete, certainly establish the factthat it is a poison of no very great activity. The quantity made use of inthe second experiment was too great to allow a fair deduction to be madeas to its properties. When a fourth to a sixth of the quantity wasemployed in the third experiment the same effects followed, but withrather less rapidity; death resulting in the one case in ten, in the otherin sixteen minutes, although the death in the latter case was perhapshastened by the loss of blood. The symptoms more resemble those producedby nux vomica than by any other agent. No apparent drowsiness, spasms, slight at first, beginning in the neck, increasing in intensity, extendingover the whole body, and finally stopping respiration and with it theaction of the heart. Experiments first and fourth show that a moderatequantity, such as may be introduced on the point of an arrow, produced nosensible effect either on a goat or a rabbit, and it could scarcely besupposed that it would have more on a man than on the latter animal; andthe fifth experiment proves that a full dose taken into the stomachproduces no result within a reasonable time. 

"The extract appeared to have been very carelessly prepared. It containedmuch earthy matter, and even small stones, and a large proportion of whatseemed to be oxidized extractive matter also was left undisturbed when itwas treated with water: probably it was not a good specimen. It seems, however, to keep well, and shows no disposition to become mouldy. "

[16] The Somal divide their year into four seasons:--

1. Gugi (monsoon, from "Gug, " rain) begins in April, is violent for forty-four days and subsides in August. Many roads may be traversed at thisseason, which are death in times of drought; the country becomes "Barwako"(in Arabic Rakha, a place of plenty, ) forage and water abound, the air istemperate, and the light showers enliven the traveller. 

2. Haga is the hot season after the monsoon, and corresponding with ourautumn: the country suffers from the Fora, a violent dusty Simum, which isallayed by a fall of rain called Karan. 

3. Dair, the beginning of the cold season, opens the sea to shipping. Therain which then falls is called Dairti or Hais: it comes with a west-south-west wind from the hills of Harar. 

4. Jilal is the dry season from December to April. The country thenbecomes Abar (in Arabic Jahr, ) a place of famine: the Nomads migrate tothe low plains, where pasture is procurable. Some reckon as a fifth seasonKalil, or the heats between Jilal and the monsoon. 

[17] According to Bruce this tree flourishes everywhere on the low hotplains between, the Red Sea and the Abyssinian hills. The Gallas revere itand plant it over sacerdotal graves. It suggests the Fetiss trees ofWestern Africa, and the Hiero-Sykaminon of Egypt. 

[18] There are two species of this bird, both called by the Somal, "Daudaulay" from their tapping. 

[19] The limbs are perfumed with the "Hedi, " and "Karanli, " products ofthe Ugadayn or southern country. 

[20] This great oath suggests the litholatry of the Arabs, derived fromthe Abyssinian and Galla Sabaeans; it is regarded by the Eesa and GudabirsiBedouins as even more binding than the popular religious adjurations. Whena suspected person denies his guilt, the judge places a stone before him, saying "Tabo!" (feel!); the liar will seldom dare to touch it. Sometimes aSomali will take up a stone and say "Dagaha, " (it is a stone, ) he may thengenerally be believed. 

[21] Kariyah is the Arabic word. 

[22] In the northern country the water-proofing matter is, according totravellers, the juice of the Quolquol, a species of Euphorbium. 

[23] The flies are always most troublesome where cows have been; kraals ofgoats and camels are comparatively free from the nuisance. 

[24] Some years ago a French lady landed at Berberah: her white face, according to the End of Time, made every man hate his wife and every wifehate herself. I know not who the fair dame was: her charms and black silkdress, however, have made a lasting impression upon the Somali heart; fromthe coast to Harar she is still remembered with rapture. 

[25] The Abyssinian Brindo of omophagean fame is not eaten by the Somal, who always boil, broil, or sun-dry their flesh. They have, however, noidea of keeping it, whereas the more civilised citizens of Harar hangtheir meat till tender. 

[26] Whilst other animals have indigenous names, the horse throughout theSomali country retains the Arab appellation "Faras. " This proves that theSomal, like their progenitors the Gallas, originally had no cavalry. TheGudabirsi tribe has but lately mounted itself by making purchases of theHabr Gerhajis and the Habr Awal herds. 

[27] The milch cow is here worth two Tobes, or about six shillings. 

[28] Particularly amongst the windward tribes visited by Lieut. Cruttenden, from whom I borrow this description. 

[29] This beautiful bird, with a black and crimson plume, and wings linedwith silver, soars high and seldom descends except at night: its shynessprevented my shooting a specimen. The Abodi devours small deer and birds:the female lays a single egg in a large loose nest on the summit of a talltree, and she abandons her home when the hand of man has violated it. TheSomal have many superstitions connected with this hawk: if it touch achild the latter dies, unless protected by the talismanic virtues of the"Hajar Abodi, " a stone found in the bird's body. As it frequently swoopsupon children carrying meat, the belief has doubtlessly frequentlyfulfilled itself. 

[30] The Bushman creeps close to the beast and wounds it in the leg orstomach with a diminutive dart covered with a couch of black poison: if adrop of blood appear, death results from the almost unfelt wound. 

[31] So the Veddahs of Ceylon are said to have destroyed the elephant byshooting a tiny arrow into the sole of the foot. The Kafirs attack it inbodies armed with sharp and broad-head "Omkondo" or assegais: at last, onefinds the opportunity of cutting deep into the hind back sinew, and sodisables the animal. 

[32] The traveller Delegorgue asserts that the Boers induce the youngelephant to accompany them, by rubbing upon its trunk the hand wetted withthe perspiration of the huntsman's brow, and that the calf, deceived bythe similarity of smell, believes that it is with its dam. The fact is, that the orphan elephant, like the bison, follows man because it fears tobe left alone. 

[33] An antelope, about five hands high with small horns, which inhabitsthe high ranges of the mountains, generally in couples, resembles the muskdeer, and is by no means shy, seldom flying till close pressed; whenrunning it hops awkwardly upon the toes and never goes far. 

[34] These are solemn words used in the equestrian games of the Somal. 

[35] Sometimes milk is poured over the head, as gold and silver in theNuzzeranah of India. These ceremonies are usually performed by low-castemen; the free-born object to act in them. 

[36] The Somal call it Hiddik or Anukub; the quills are used as headscratchers, and are exported to Aden for sale. 

[37] I It appears to be the Ashkoko of the Amharas, identified by Brucewith the Saphan of the Hebrews. This coney lives in chinks and holes ofrocks: it was never seen by me on the plains. The Arabs eat it, the Somalgenerally do not. 

[38] The prefix appears to be a kind of title appropriated by saints anddivines. 

[39] These charms are washed off and drunk by the people: an economicalproceeding where paper is scarce. 

[40] "Birsan" in Somali, meaning to increase. 

[41] The Ayyal Yunis, the principal clan, contains four septs viz. :--

 1. Jibril Yunis. 3. Ali Yunis. 2. Nur Yunis. 4. Adan Yunis. 

The other chief clans are--

 1. Mikahil Dera. 7. Basannah. 2. Rer Ugaz. 8. Bahabr Hasan. 3. Jibrain. 9. Abdillah Mikahil. 4. Rer Mohammed Asa. 10. Hasan Mikahil. 5. Musa Fin. 11. Eyah Mikahil 6. Rer Abokr. 12. Hasan Waraba. 

[42] The best prayer-skins are made at Ogadayn; there they cost abouthalf-a-dollar each. 

CHAP. VII. 

FROM THE MARAR PRAIRIE TO HARAR. 

Early on the 23rd December assembled the Caravan, which we were destinedto escort across the Marar Prairie. Upon this neutral ground the Eesa, Berteri, and Habr Awal meet to rob and plunder unhappy travellers. TheSomal shuddered at the sight of a wayfarer, who rushed into our encampment_in cuerpo_, having barely run away with his life. Not that our caravancarried much to lose, --a few hides and pots of clarified butter, to beexchanged for the Holcus grain of the Girhi cultivators, --still thesmallest contributions are thankfully received by these plunderers. Ourmaterial consisted of four or five half-starved camels, about fiftydonkeys with ears cropped as a mark, and their eternal accompaniments inSomali land, old women. The latter seemed to be selected for age, hideousness, and strength: all day they bore their babes smothered inhides upon their backs, and they carried heavy burdens apparently withoutfatigue. Amongst them was a Bedouin widow, known by her "Wer, " a strip ofthe inner bark of a tree tied round the greasy fillet. [1] We wereaccompanied by three Widads, provided with all the instruments of theircraft, and uncommonly tiresome companions. They recited Koran _a tort et atravers_: at every moment they proposed Fatihahs, the name of Allah wasperpetually upon their lips, and they discussed questions of divinity, like Gil Blas and his friends, with a violence bordering upon frenzy. Oneof them was celebrated for his skill in the "Fal, " or Omens: he wasconstantly consulted by my companions, and informed them that we hadnought to fear except from wild beasts. The prediction was a good hit: Imust own, however, that it was not communicated to me before fulfilment. 

At half past six A. M. We began our march over rough and rising ground, anetwork of thorns and water-courses, and presently entered a stony gapbetween two ranges of hills. On our right was a conical peak, bearing theremains of buildings upon its summit. Here, said Abtidon, a wild Gudabirsihired to look after our mules, rests the venerable Shaykh Samawai. Of old, a number of wells existed in the gaps between the hills: these havedisappeared with those who drank of them. 

Presently we entered the Barr or Prairie of Marar, one of the long stripsof plain which diversify the Somali country. Its breadth, bounded on theeast by the rolling ground over which we had passed, on the west byGurays, a range of cones offshooting from the highlands of Harar, is abouttwenty-seven miles. The general course is north and south: in the formerdirection, it belongs to the Eesa: in the latter may be seen the peaks ofKadau and Madir, the property of the Habr Awal tribes; and along theseranges it extends, I was told, towards Ogadayn. The surface of the plainis gently rolling ground; the black earth, filled with the holes of smallbeasts, would be most productive, and the outer coat is an expanse oftall, waving, sunburnt grass, so unbroken, that from a distance itresembles the nap of yellow velvet. In the frequent Wadys, which carry offthe surplus rain of the hills, scrub and thorn trees grow in densethickets, and the grass is temptingly green. Yet the land lies fallow:water and fuel are scarce at a distance from the hills, and the wildestBedouins dare not front the danger of foraging parties, the fatal heats ofday, and the killing colds of night. On the edges of the plain, however, are frequent vestiges of deserted kraals. 

About mid-day, we crossed a depression in the centre, where Acaciassupplied us with gum for luncheon, and sheltered flocks of antelope. Iendeavoured to shoot the white-tailed Sig, and the large dun Oryx; but the_brouhaha_ of the Caravan prevented execution. Shortly afterwards we cameupon patches of holcus, which had grown wild, from seeds scattered bytravellers. This was the first sight of grain that gladdened my eyes sinceI left Bombay: the grave of the First Murderer never knew a Triptolemus[2], and Zayla is a barren flat of sand. My companions eagerly devouredthe pith of this African "sweet cane, " despite its ill reputation forcausing fever. I followed their example, and found it almost as good asbad sugar. The Bedouins loaded their spare asses with the bitter gourd, called Ubbah; externally it resembles the water melon, and becomes, whenshaped, dried, and smoked, the wickerwork of the Somal, and the pottery ofmore civilized people. 

Towards evening, as the setting sun sank slowly behind the distant westernhills, the colour of the Prairie changed from glaring yellow to a goldenhue, mantled with a purple flush inexpressibly lovely. The animals of thewaste began to appear. Shy lynxes [3] and jackals fattened by many sheep'stails [4], warned my companions that fierce beasts were nigh, ominousanecdotes were whispered, and I was told that a caravan had lately lostnine asses by lions. As night came on, the Bedouin Kafilah, being lightlyloaded, preceded us, and our tired camels lagged far behind. We wereriding in rear to prevent straggling, when suddenly my mule, thehindermost, pricked his ears uneasily, and attempted to turn his head. Looking backwards, I distinguished the form of a large animal following uswith quick and stealthy strides. My companions would not fire, thinking itwas a man: at last a rifle-ball, pinging through the air--the moon was tooyoung for correct shooting--put to flight a huge lion. The terror excitedby this sort of an adventure was comical to look upon: the valiant Beuh, who, according to himself, had made his _preuves_ in a score of foughtenfields, threw his arms in the air, wildly shouting Libah! Libah!!--thelion! the lion!!--and nothing else was talked of that evening. 

The ghostly western hills seemed to recede as we advanced over the endlessrolling plain. Presently the ground became broken and stony, the mulesstumbled in deep holes, and the camels could scarcely crawl along. As weadvanced our Widads, who, poor devils! had been "roasted" by the women allday on account of their poverty, began to recite the Koran with might, ingratitude for having escaped many perils. Night deepening, our attentionwas rivetted by a strange spectacle; a broad sheet of bright blaze, reminding me of Hanno's fiery river, swept apparently down a hill, and, according to my companions, threatened the whole prairie. These accidentsare common: a huntsman burns a tree for honey, or cooks his food in thedry grass, the wind rises and the flames spread far and wide. On thisoccasion no accident occurred; the hills, however, smoked like a Solfatarafor two days. 

About 9 P. M. We heard voices, and I was told to discharge my rifle lestthe kraal be closed to us; in due time we reached a long, low, dark lineof sixty or seventy huts, disposed in a circle, so as to form a fence, with a few bushes--thorns being hereabouts rare--in the gaps between theabodes. The people, a mixture of Girhi and Gudabirsi Bedouins, swarmed outto gratify their curiosity, but we were in no humour for longconversations. Our luggage was speedily disposed in a heap near the kraal, the mules and camels were tethered for the night, then, supperless andshivering with cold, we crept under our mats and fell asleep. That day wehad ridden nearly fifteen hours; our halting place lay about thirty milesfrom, and 240° south-west of, Koralay. 

After another delay, and a second vain message to the Gerad Adan, aboutnoon appeared that dignitary's sixth wife, sister to the valiant Beuh. Herarrival disconcerted my companions, who were too proud to be protected bya woman. "Dahabo, " however, relieved their anxiety by informing us thatthe Gerad had sent his eldest son Sherwa, as escort. This princess was agipsy-looking dame, coarsely dressed, about thirty years old, with a gayleer, a jaunty demeanour, and the reputation of being "fast;" she showedlittle shame-facedness when I saluted her, and received with noisy joy theappropriate present of a new and handsome Tobe. About 4 P. M. Returned oursecond messenger, bearing with him a reproving message from the Gerad, fornot visiting him without delay; in token of sincerity, he forwarded hisbaton, a knobstick about two feet long, painted in rings of Cutch colours, red, black, and yellow alternately, and garnished on the summit with aball of similar material. 

At dawn on the 26th December, mounted upon a little pony, came Sherwa, heir presumptive to the Gerad Adan's knobstick. His father had sent him tous three days before, but he feared the Gudabirsi as much as the Gudabirsifeared him, and he probably hung about our camp till certain that it wassafe to enter. We received him politely, and he in acknowledgmentpositively declared that Beuh should not return before eating honey in hiscottage. Our Abban's heroism now became infectious. Even the End of Time, whose hot valour had long since fallen below zero, was inspired by theoccasion, and recited, as usual with him in places and at times of extremesafety, the Arabs' warrior lines--

 "I have crossed the steed since my eyes saw light, I have fronted death till he feared my sight, And the cleaving of helm, and the riving of mail Were the dreams of my youth, --are my manhood's delight. "

As we had finished loading, a mule's bridle was missed. Sherwa orderedinstant restitution to his father's stranger, on the ground that all theproperty now belonged to the Gerad; and we, by no means idle, fiercelythreatened to bewitch the kraal. The article was presently found hard by, on a hedge. This was the first and last case of theft which occurred to usin the Somali country;--I have travelled through most civilised lands, andhave lost more. 

At 8 A. M. We marched towards the north-west, along the southern base ofthe Gurays hills, and soon arrived at the skirt of the prairie, where awell-trodden path warned us that we were about to quit the desert. Afteradvancing six miles in line we turned to the right, and recited a Fatihahover the heap of rough stones, where, shadowed by venerable trees, lie theremains of the great Shaykh Abd el Malik. A little beyond this spot, risessuddenly from the plain a mass of castellated rock, the subject of many awild superstition. Caravans always encamp beneath it, as whoso sleeps uponthe summit loses his senses to evil spirits. At some future day Harar willbe destroyed, and "Jannah Siri" will become a flourishing town. Weascended it, and found no life but hawks, coneys, an owl [5], and agraceful species of black eagle [6]; there were many traces of buildings, walls, ruined houses, and wells, whilst the sides and summit were tuftedwith venerable sycamores. This act was an imprudence; the Bedouins at oncedeclared that we were "prospecting" for a fort, and the evil reportpreceded us to Harar. 

After a mile's march from Jannah Siri, we crossed a ridge of risingground, and suddenly, as though by magic, the scene shifted. 

Before us lay a little Alp; the second step of the Ethiopian Highland. Around were high and jagged hills, their sides black with the Saj [7] andSomali pine [8], and their upper brows veiled with a thin growth ofcactus. Beneath was a deep valley, in the midst of which ran a serpentineof shining waters, the gladdest spectacle we had yet witnessed: further infront, masses of hill rose abruptly from shady valleys, encircled on thefar horizon by a straight blue line of ground, resembling a distant sea. Behind us glared the desert: we had now reached the outskirts ofcivilization, where man, abandoning his flocks and herds, settles, cultivates, and attends to the comforts of life. 

The fields are either terraces upon the hill slopes or the sides ofvalleys, divided by flowery hedges with lanes between, not unlike those ofrustic England; and on a nearer approach the daisy, the thistle, and thesweet briar pleasantly affected my European eyes. The villages are nolonger moveable: the Kraal and wigwam are replaced by the Gambisa or bell-shaped hut of Middle Africa [9], circular cottages of holcus wattle, Covered with coarse dab and surmounted by a stiff, conical, thatch roof, above which appears the central supporting post, crowned with a gourd orostrich egg. [10] Strong abbatis of thorns protects these settlements, which stud the hills in all directions: near most of them are clumps oftall trees, to the southern sides of which are hung, like birdcages, longcylinders of matting, the hives of these regions. Yellow crops of holcusrewarded the peasant's toil: in some places the long stems tied in bunchesbelow the ears as piled muskets, stood ready for the reaper; in others, the barer ground showed that the task was done. The boys sat perched uponreed platforms [11] in the trees, and with loud shouts drove away thievingbirds, whilst their fathers cut the crop with diminutive sickles, orthrashed heaps of straw with rude flails [12], or winnowed grain bytossing it with a flat wooden shovel against the wind. The women huskedthe pineapple-formed heads in mortars composed of a hollowed trunk [13], smeared the threshing floor with cow-dung and water to defend it frominsects, piled the holcus heads into neat yellow heaps, spanned andcrossed by streaks of various colours, brick-red and brownish-purple [14], and stacked the Karbi or straw, which was surrounded like the grain withthorn, as a defence against the wild hog. All seemed to consider it alabour of love: the harvest-home song sounded pleasantly to our ears, and, contrasting with the silent desert, the hum of man's habitation was amusic. 

Descending the steep slope, we reposed, after a seven miles' march, on thebanks of a bright rivulet, which bisects the Kobbo or valley: it runs, according to my guides, from the north towards Ogadayn, and the directionis significant, --about Harar I found neither hill nor stream trending fromeast to west. The people of the Kutti [15] flocked out to gaze upon us:they were unarmed, and did not, like the Bedouins, receive us with criesof "Bori. " During the halt, we bathed in the waters, upon whose banks werea multitude of huge Mantidae, pink and tender green. Returning to thecamels, I shot a kind of crow, afterwards frequently seen. [16] It isabout three times the size of our English bird, of a bluish-black with asnow-white poll, and a beak of unnatural proportions: the quantity of leadwhich it carried off surprised me. A number of Widads assembled to greetus, and some Habr Awal, who were returning with a caravan, gave us thesalam, and called my people cousins. "Verily, " remarked the Hammal, "amongst friends we cut one another's throats; amongst enemies we becomesons of uncles!"

At 3 P. M. We pursued our way over rising ground, dotted with graniteblocks fantastically piled, and everywhere in sight of fields and villagesand flowing water. A furious wind was blowing, and the End of Time quotedthe Somali proverb, "heat hurts, but cold kills:" the camels were sofatigued, and the air became so raw [17], that after an hour and a half'smarch we planted our wigwams near a village distant about seven miles fromthe Gurays Hills. Till late at night we were kept awake by the crazyWidads: Ao Samattar had proposed the casuistical question, "Is it lawfulto pray upon a mountain when a plain is at hand?" Some took the _pro_, others the _contra_, and the wordy battle raged with uncommon fury. 

On Wednesday morning at half past seven we started down hill towards"Wilensi, " a small table-mountain, at the foot of which we expected tofind the Gerad Adan awaiting us in one of his many houses, crossed afertile valley, and ascended another steep slope by a bad and stony road. Passing the home of Sherwa, who vainly offered hospitality, we toiledonwards, and after a mile and a half's march, which occupied at least twohours, our wayworn beasts arrived at the Gerad's village. On inquiry, itproved that the chief, who was engaged in selecting two horses and twohundred cows, the price of blood claimed by the Amir of Harar, for themurder of a citizen, had that day removed to Sagharrah, anothersettlement. 

As we entered the long straggling village of Wilensi, our party wasdivided by the Gerad's two wives. The Hammal, the Kalendar, Shehrazade, and Deenarzade, remained with Beuh and his sister in her Gurgi, whilstLong Guled, the End of Time, and I were conducted to the cottage of theGerad's prettiest wife, Sudiyah. She was a tall woman, with a lightcomplexion, handsomely dressed in a large Harar Tobe, with silverearrings, and the kind of necklace called Jilbah or Kardas. [18] TheGeradah (princess) at once ordered our hides to be spread in a comfortablepart of the hut, and then supplied us with food--boiled beef, pumpkin, andJowari cakes. During the short time spent in that Gambisa, I had anopportunity, dear L. , of seeing the manners and customs of the settledSomal. 

The interior of the cottage is simple. Entering the door, a single plankwith pins for hinges fitted into sockets above and below the lintel--infact, as artless a contrivance as ever seen in Spain or Corsica--you finda space, divided by dwarf walls of wattle and dab into three compartments, for the men, women, and cattle. The horses and cows, tethered at night onthe left of the door, fill the cottage with the wherewithal to pass many a_nuit blanche_: the wives lie on the right, near a large fireplace ofstones and raised clay, and the males occupy the most comfortable part, opposite to and farthest from the entrance. The thatched ceiling shinesjetty with smoke, which when intolerable is allowed to escape by adiminutive window: this seldom happens, for smoke, like grease and dirt, keeping man warm, is enjoyed by savages. Equally simply is the furniture:the stem of a tree, with branches hacked into pegs, supports the shields, the assegais are planted against the wall, and divers bits of wood, projecting from the sides and the central roof-tree of the cottage, arehung with clothes and other articles that attract white ants. Gourdssmoked inside, and coffee cups of coarse black Harar pottery, with deepwooden platters, and prettily carved spoons of the same material, composethe household supellex. The inmates are the Geradah and her baby, Siddik aGalla serf, the slave girls and sundry Somal: thus we hear at all timesthree languages [19] spoken within the walls. 

Long before dawn the goodwife rises, wakens her handmaidens, lights thefire, and prepares for the Afur or morning meal. The quern is here unknown[20]. A flat, smooth, oval slab, weighing about fifteen pounds, and astone roller six inches in diameter, worked with both hands, and theweight of the body kneeling ungracefully upon it on "all fours, " are usedto triturate the holcus grain. At times water must be sprinkled over themeal, until a finely powdered paste is ready for the oven: thus severalhours' labour is required to prepare a few pounds of bread. About 6 A. M. There appears a substantial breakfast of roast beef and mutton, withscones of Jowari grain, the whole drenched in broth. Of the men fewperform any ablutions, but all use the tooth stick before sitting down toeat. After the meal some squat in the sun, others transact business, anddrive their cattle to the bush till 11 A. M. , the dinner hour. There is novariety in the repasts, which are always flesh and holcus: these peopledespise fowls, and consider vegetables food for cattle. During the daythere is no privacy; men, women, and children enter in crowds, and willnot be driven away by the Geradah, who inquires screamingly if they cometo stare at a baboon. My kettle especially excites their surprise; someopine that it is an ostrich, others, a serpent: Sudiyah, however, soondiscovered its use, and begged irresistibly for the unique article. Throughout the day her slave girls are busied in grinding, cooking, andquarrelling with dissonant voices: the men have little occupation beyondchewing tobacco, chatting, and having their wigs frizzled by aprofessional coiffeur. In the evening the horses and cattle return home tobe milked and stabled: this operation concluded, all apply themselves tosupper with a will. They sleep but little, and sit deep into the nighttrimming the fire, and conversing merrily over their cups of Farshu ormillet beer. [21] I tried this mixture several times, and found itdetestable: the taste is sour, and it flies directly to the head, inconsequence of being mixed with some poisonous bark. It is served up ingourd bottles upon a basket of holcus heads, and strained through apledget of cotton, fixed across the narrow mouth, into cups of the sameprimitive material: the drinkers sit around their liquor, and theirhilarity argues its intoxicating properties. In the morning they arisewith headaches and heavy eyes; but these symptoms, which we, anindustrious race, deprecate, are not disliked by the Somal--they promotesleep and give something to occupy the vacant mind. I usually slumberthrough the noise except when Ambar, a half-caste Somal, returning from atrip to Harar, astounds us with his _contes bleus_, or wild Abtidon howlsforth some lay like this:--

 I. "'Tis joyesse all in Eesa's home! The fatted oxen bleed, And slave girls range the pails of milk, And strain the golden mead. 

 II. "'Tis joyesse all in Eesa's home! This day the Chieftain's pride Shall join the song, the dance, the feast, And bear away a bride. 

 III. "'He cometh not!' the father cried, Smiting with spear the wall; 'And yet he sent the ghostly man, Yestre'en before the fall!'

 IV. "'He cometh not!' the mother said, A tear stood in her eye; 'He cometh not, I dread, I dread, And yet I know not why. '

 V. "'He cometh not!' the maiden thought, Yet in her glance was light, Soft as the flash in summer's eve Where sky and earth unite. 

 VI. "The virgins, deck'd with tress and flower, Danced in the purple shade, And not a soul, perchance, but wished Herself the chosen maid. 

 VII. "The guests in groups sat gathering Where sunbeams warmed the air, Some laughed the feasters' laugh, and some Wore the bent brow of care. 

 VIII. "'Tis he!--'tis he!"--all anxious peer, Towards the distant lea; A courser feebly nears the throng-- Ah! 'tis his steed they see. 

 IX. "The grief cry bursts from every lip, Fear sits on every brow, There's blood upon the courser's flank!-- Blood on the saddle bow!

 X. "'Tis he!--'tis he!'--all arm and run Towards the Marar Plain, Where a dark horseman rides the waste With dust-cloud for a train. 

 XI. "The horseman reins his foam-fleckt steed, Leans on his broken spear, Wipes his damp brow, and faint begins To tell a tale of fear. 

 XII. "'Where is my son?'--'Go seek him there, Far on the Marar Plain, Where vultures and hyaenas hold Their orgies o'er the slain. 

 XIII. "'We took our arms, we saddled horse, We rode the East countrie, And drove the flocks, and harried herds Betwixt the hills and sea. 

 XIV. "'We drove the flock across the hill, The herd across the wold-- The poorest spearboy had returned That day, a man of gold. 

 XV. "'Bat Awal's children mann'd the vale Where sweet the Arman flowers, Their archers from each bush and tree Rained shafts in venomed showers. 

 XVI. "'Full fifty warriors bold and true Fell as becomes the brave; And whom the arrow spared, the spear Reaped for the ravening grave. 

 XVII. "'Friend of my youth! shall I remain When ye are gone before?' He drew the wood from out his side, And loosed the crimson gore. 

 XVIII. "Falling, he raised his broken spear, Thrice wav'd it o'er his head, Thrice raised the warrior's cry 'revenge!'-- His soul was with the dead. 

 XIX. "Now, one by one, the wounded braves Homeward were seen to wend, Each holding on his saddle bow A dead or dying friend. 

 XX. "Two galliards bore the Eesa's son, The corpse was stark and bare-- Low moaned the maid, the mother smote Her breast in mute despair. 

 XXI. "The father bent him o'er the dead, The wounds were all before; Again his brow, in sorrow clad, The garb of gladness wore. 

 XXII. "'Ho! sit ye down, nor mourn for me, ' Unto the guests he cried; 'My son a warrior's life hath lived, A warrior's death hath died. 

 XXIII. "'His wedding and his funeral feast Are one, so Fate hath said; Death bore him from the brides of earth The brides of Heaven to wed. '

 XXIV. "They drew their knives, they sat them down, And fed as warriors feed; The flesh of sheep and beeves they ate, And quaffed the golden mead. 

 XXV. "And Eesa sat between the prayers Until the fall of day, When rose the guests and grasped their spears, And each man went his way. 

 XXVI. "But in the morn arose the cry, For mortal spirit flown; The father's mighty heart had burst With woe he might not own. 

 XXVII. "On the high crest of yonder hill, They buried sire and son, Grant, Allah! grant them Paradise-- Gentles, my task is done!"

 * * * * *

Immediately after our arrival at Wilensi we sent Yusuf Dera, the Gerad'ssecond son, to summon his father. I had to compose many disputes betweenthe Hammal and the End of Time: the latter was swelling with importance;he was now accredited ambassador from the Hajj to the Girhi chief, consequently he aimed at commanding the Caravan. We then made preparationsfor departure, in case of the Gerad being unable to escort us. Shehrazadeand Deenarzade, hearing that the small-pox raged at Harar, and fearing fortheir charms, begged hard to be left behind: the Kalendar was directed, despite his manly objections, to remain in charge of these dainty dames. The valiant Beuh was dressed in the grand Tobe promised to him; as noconsideration would induce him towards the city, he was dismissed withsmall presents, and an old Girhi Bedouin, generally known as Said Wal, orMad Said, was chosen as our escort. Camels being unable to travel overthese rough mountain paths, our weary brutes were placed for rest andpasture under the surveillance of Sherwa: and not wishing the trouble anddelay of hiring asses, the only transport in this country, certainmoreover that our goods were safer here than nearer Harar, we selected themost necessary objects, and packed them in a pair of small leathernsaddlebags which could be carried by a single mule. 

All these dispositions duly made, at 10 A. M. On the 29th December wemounted our animals, and, guided by Mad Said, trotted round the northernside of the Wilensi table-mountain down a lane fenced with fragrant dogroses. Then began the descent of a steep rocky hill, the wall of a woodychasm, through whose gloomy depths the shrunken stream of a large Fiumarawound like a thread of silver. The path would be safe to nought lesssurefooted than a mule: we rode slowly over rolling stones, steps ofmicaceous grit, and through thorny bush for about half an hour. In theplain below appeared a village of the Gerad's Midgans, who came out to seeus pass, and followed the strangers to some distance. One happening tosay, "Of what use is his gun?--before he could fetch fire, I should putthis arrow through him!" I discharged a barrel over their heads, andderided the convulsions of terror caused by the unexpected sound. 

Passing onwards we entered a continuation of the Wady Harirah. It is along valley choked with dense vegetation, through which meandered a lineof water brightly gilt by the sun's rays: my Somal remarked that were theelephants now infesting it destroyed, rice, the favourite luxury, might begrown upon its banks in abundance. Our road lay under clumps of shadytrees, over rocky watercourses, through avenues of tall cactus, and down_tranchees_ worn by man eight and ten feet below stiff banks of rich redclay. On every side appeared deep clefts, ravines, and earth cracks, all, at this season, dry. The unarmed cultivators thronged from the frequentsettlements to stare, and my Somal, being no longer in their own country, laid aside for guns their ridiculous spears. On the way passing AoSamattar's village, the worthy fellow made us halt whilst he went to fetcha large bowl of sour milk. About noon the fresh western breeze obscuredthe fierce sun with clouds, and we watered our mules in a mountain streamwhich crossed our path thrice within as many hundred yards. After sixmiles' ride reaching the valley's head, we began the descent of a ruggedpass by a rough and rocky path. The scenery around us was remarkable. Thehill sides were well wooded, and black with pine: their summits were baredof earth by the heavy monsoon which spreads the valleys with rich soil; inmany places the beds of waterfalls shone like sheets of metal upon theblack rock; villages surrounded by fields and fences studded the country, and the distance was a mass of purple peak and blue table in longvanishing succession. Ascending the valley's opposite wall, we found theremains of primaeval forests, --little glades which had escaped the axe, --they resounded with the cries of pintados and cynocephali. [22] Had theyellow crops of Holcus been wheat, I might have fancied myself once moreriding in the pleasant neighbourhood of Tuscan Sienna. 

At 4 P. M. , after accomplishing fifteen miles on rough ground, we sightedSagharrah, a snug high-fenced village of eight or nine huts nestlingagainst a hill side with trees above, and below a fertile grain-valley. Presently Mad Said pointed out to us the Gerad Adan, who, attended by alittle party, was returning homewards: we fired our guns as a salute, hehowever hurried on to receive us with due ceremony in his cottage. Dismounting at the door we shook hands with him, were led through the idlemob into a smoky closet contrived against the inside wall, and wereregaled with wheaten bread steeped in honey and rancid butter. The hostleft us to eat, and soon afterwards returned:--I looked with attention ata man upon whom so much then depended. 

Adan bin Kaushan was in appearance a strong wiry Bedouin, --beforeobtaining from me a turban he wore his bushy hair dyed dun, --about forty-five years old, at least six feet high, with decided features, a trickysmile, and an uncertain eye. In character he proved to be one of thosecunning idiots so peculiarly difficult to deal with. Ambitious and wildwith greed of gain, he was withal so fickle that his head appeared everchanging its contents; he could not sit quiet for half an hour, and thisphysical restlessness was an outward sign of the uneasy inner man. Thoughreputed brave, his treachery has won him a permanent ill fame. Some yearsago he betrothed a daughter to the eldest son of Gerad Hirsi of theBerteri tribe, and then, contrary to Somali laws of honor, married her toMahommed Waiz of the Jibril Abokr. This led to a feud, in which thedisappointed suitor was slain. Adan was celebrated for polygamy even inEastern Africa: by means of his five sons and dozen daughters, he hassucceeded in making extensive connexions [23], and his sister, the Gisti[24] Fatimah, was married to Abubakr, father of the present Amir. Yet theGerad would walk into a crocodile's mouth as willingly as within the wallsof Harar. His main reason for receiving us politely was an ephemeral fancyfor building a fort, to control the country's trade, and rival or overawethe city. Still did he not neglect the main chance: whatever he saw heasked for; and, after receiving a sword, a Koran, a turban, an Arabwaistcoat of gaudy satin, about seventy Tobes, and a similar proportion ofindigo-dyed stuff, he privily complained to me that the Hammal had givenhim but twelve cloths. A list of his wants will best explain the man. Hebegged me to bring him from Berberah a silver-hilted sword and some soap, 1000 dollars, two sets of silver bracelets, twenty guns with powder andshot, snuff, a scarlet cloth coat embroidered with gold, some poison thatwould not fail, and any other little article of luxury which might besupposed to suit him. In return he was to present us with horses, mules, slaves, ivory, and other valuables: he forgot, however, to do so before wedeparted. 

The Gerad Adan was powerful, being the head of a tribe of cultivators, notsplit up, like the Bedouins, into independent clans, and he thus exercisesa direct influence upon the conterminous races. [25] The Girhi or"Giraffes" inhabiting these hills are, like most of the other settledSomal, a derivation from Darud, and descended from Kombo. Despite theunmerciful persecutions of the Gallas, they gradually migrated westwardsfrom Makhar, their original nest, now number 5000 shields, possess about180 villages, and are accounted the power paramount. Though friendly withthe Habr Awal, the Girhi seldom descend, unless compelled by want ofpasture, into the plains. 

The other inhabitants of these hills are the Gallas and the Somali clansof Berteri, Bursuk, Shaykhash, Hawiyah, Usbayhan, Marayhan, and Abaskul. 

The Gallas [26] about Harar are divided into four several clans, separating as usual into a multitude of septs. The Alo extend westwardsfrom the city: the Nole inhabit the land to the east and north-east, abouttwo days' journey between the Eesa Somal, and Harar: on the south, aresituated the Babuli and the Jarsa at Wilensi, Sagharrah, and Kondura, --places described in these pages. 

The Berteri, who occupy the Gurays Range, south of, and limitrophe to, theGallas, and thence extend eastward to the Jigjiga hills, are estimated at3000 shields. [27] Of Darud origin, they own allegiance to the GeradHirsi, and were, when I visited the country, on bad terms with the Girhi. The chief's family has, for several generations, been connected with theAmirs of Harar, and the caravan's route to and from Berberah lying throughhis country, makes him a useful friend and a dangerous foe. About theGerad Hirsi different reports were rife: some described him as cruel, violent, and avaricious; others spoke of him as a godly and a prayerfulperson: all, however, agreed that he _had_ sowed wild oats. In token ofrepentance, he was fond of feeding Widads, and the Shaykh Jami of Hararwas a frequent guest at his kraal. 

The Bursuk number about 5000 shields, own no chief, and in 1854 were atwar with the Girhi, the Berteri, and especially the Gallas. In thiscountry, the feuds differ from those of the plains: the hill-men fight forthree days, as the End of Time phrased it, and make peace for three days. The maritime clans are not so abrupt in their changes; moreover they claimblood-money, a thing here unknown. 

The Shaykhash, or "Reverend" as the term means, are the only Somal of themountains not derived from Dir and Darud. Claiming descent from the CaliphAbubakr, they assert that ten generations ago, one Ao Khutab bin FakihUmar crossed over from El Hejaz, and settled in Eastern Africa with hissix sons, Umar the greater, Umar the less, two Abdillahs, Ahmed, andlastly Siddik. This priestly tribe is dispersed, like that of Levi, amongst its brethren, and has spread from Efat to Ogadayn. Its principalsub-families are, Ao Umar, the elder, and Bah Dumma, the junior, branch. 

The Hawiyah has been noticed in a previous chapter. Of the Usbayhan I sawbut few individuals: they informed me that their tribe numbered fortyvillages, and about 1000 shields; that they had no chief of their ownrace, but owned the rule of the Girhi and Berteri Gerads. Their principalclans are the Rer Yusuf, Rer Said, Rer Abokr, and Yusuf Liyo. 

In the Eastern Horn of Africa, and at Ogadayn, the Marayhan is a powerfultribe, here it is un-consequential, and affiliated to the Girhi. TheAbaskul also lies scattered over the Harar hills, and owns the Gerad Adanas its chief. This tribe numbers fourteen villages, and between 400 and500 shields, and is divided into the Rer Yusuf, the Jibrailah, and theWarra Dig:--the latter clan is said to be of Galla extraction. 

On the morning after my arrival at Sagharrah I felt too ill to rise, andwas treated with unaffected kindness by all the establishment. The Geradsent to Harar for millet beer, Ao Samattar went to the gardens in searchof Kat, the sons Yusuf Dera and a dwarf [28] insisted upon firing me withsuch ardour, that no refusal could avail: and Khayrah the wife, with herdaughters, two tall dark, smiling, and well-favoured girls of thirteen andfifteen, sacrificed a sheep as my Fida, or Expiatory offering. Even theGalla Christians, who flocked to see the stranger, wept for the evil fatewhich had brought him so far from his fatherland, to die under a tree. Nothing, indeed, would have been easier than such operation: all requiredwas the turning face to the wall, for four or five days. But to expire ofan ignoble colic!--the thing was not to be thought of, and a firmresolution to live on sometimes, methinks, effects its object. 

On the 1st January, 1855, feeling stronger, I clothed myself in my Arabbest, and asked a palaver with the Gerad. We retired to a safe placebehind the village, where I read with pomposity the Hajj Sharmarkay'sletter. The chief appeared much pleased by our having preferred hiscountry to that of the Eesa: he at once opened the subject of the newfort, and informed me that I was the builder, as his eldest daughter hadjust dreamed that the stranger would settle in the land. Having discussedthe project to the Gerad's satisfaction, we brought out the guns and shota few birds for the benefit of the vulgar. Whilst engaged in thisoccupation, appeared a party of five strangers, and three mules withornamented Morocco saddles, bridles, bells, and brass neck ornaments, after the fashion of Harar. Two of these men, Haji Umar, and Nur Ambar, were citizens: the others, Ali Hasan, Husayn Araleh, and Haji Mohammed, were Somal of the Habr Awal tribe, high in the Amir's confidence. They hadbeen sent to settle with Adan the weighty matter of Blood-money. Aftersitting with us almost half an hour, during which they exchanged gravesalutations with my attendants, inspected our asses with portentouscountenances, and asked me a few questions concerning my business in thoseparts, they went privily to the Gerad, told him that the Arab was not onewho bought and sold, that he had no design but to spy out the wealth ofthe land, and that the whole party should be sent prisoners in their handsto Harar. The chief curtly replied that we were his friends, and badethem, "throw far those words. " Disappointed in their designs, they startedlate in the afternoon, driving off their 200 cows, and falsely promisingto present our salams to the Amir. 

It became evident that some decided step must be taken. The Geradconfessed fear of his Harari kinsman, and owned that he had lost all hisvillages in the immediate neighbourhood of the city. I asked him point-blank to escort us: he as frankly replied that it was impossible. Therequest was lowered, --we begged him to accompany us as far as thefrontier: he professed inability to do so, but promised to send his eldestson, Sherwa. 

Nothing then remained, dear L. , but _payer d'audace_, and, throwing allforethought to the dogs, to rely upon what has made many a small mangreat, the good star. I addressed my companions in a set speech, advisinga mount without delay. They suggested a letter to the Amir, requestingpermission to enter his city: this device was rejected for two reasons. Inthe first place, had a refusal been returned, our journey was cut short, and our labours stultified. Secondly, the End of Time had whispered thatmy two companions were plotting to prevent the letter reaching itsdestination. He had charged his own sin upon their shoulders: the Hammaland Long Guled were incapable of such treachery. But our hedge-priest wasthoroughly terrified; "a coward body after a', " his face brightened whenordered to remain with the Gerad at Sagharrah, and though openly tauntedwith poltroonery, he had not the decency to object. My companions werethen informed that hitherto our acts had been those of old women, notsoldiers, and that something savouring of manliness must be done before wecould return. They saw my determination to start alone, if necessary, andto do them justice, they at once arose. This was the more courageous inthem, as alarmists had done their worst: but a day before, some travellingSomali had advised them, as they valued dear life, not to accompany thatTurk to Harar. Once in the saddle, they shook off sad thoughts, declaringthat if they were slain, I should pay their blood-money, and if theyescaped, that their reward was in my hands. When in some danger, theHammal especially behaved with a sturdiness which produced the mostbeneficial results. Yet they were true Easterns. Wearied by delay atHarar, I employed myself in meditating flight; they drily declared thatafter-wit serves no good purpose: whilst I considered the possibility ofescape, they looked only at the prospect of being dragged back withpinioned arms by the Amir's guard. Such is generally the effect of thevulgar Moslems' blind fatalism. 

I then wrote an English letter [29] from the Political Agent at Aden tothe Amir of Harar, proposing to deliver it in person, and throw off mydisguise. Two reasons influenced me in adopting this "neck or nothing"plan. All the races amongst whom my travels lay, hold him nidering whohides his origin in places of danger; and secondly, my white face hadconverted me into a Turk, a nation more hated and suspected than anyEuropeans, without our _prestige_. Before leaving Sagharrah, I entrustedto the End of Time a few lines addressed to Lieut. Herne at Berberah, directing him how to act in case of necessity. Our baggage was againdecimated: the greater part was left with Adan, and an ass carried onlywhat was absolutely necessary, --a change of clothes, a book or two, a fewbiscuits, ammunition, and a little tobacco. My Girhi escort consisted ofSherwa, the Bedouin Abtidon, and Mad Said mounted on the End of Time'smule. 

At 10 A. M. On the 2nd January, all the villagers assembled, and recitedthe Fatihah, consoling us with the information that we were dead men. Bythe worst of foot-paths, we ascended the rough and stony hill behindSagharrah, through bush and burn and over ridges of rock. At the summitwas a village, where Sherwa halted, declaring that he dared not advance: aswordsman, however, was sent on to guard us through the Galla Pass. Afteran hour's ride, we reached the foot of a tall Table-mountain calledKondura, where our road, a goat-path rough with rocks or fallen trees, andhere and there arched over with giant creepers, was reduced to a narrowledge, with a forest above and a forest below. I could not but admire thebeauty of this Valombrosa, which reminded me of scenes whilome enjoyed infair Touraine. High up on our left rose the perpendicular walls of themisty hill, fringed with tufted pine, and on the right the shrub-cladfolds fell into a deep valley. The cool wind whistled and sunbeams likegolden shafts darted through tall shady trees--

 Bearded with moss, and in garments green--

the ground was clothed with dank grass, and around the trunks grewthistles, daisies, and blue flowers which at a distance might well passfor violets. 

Presently we were summarily stopped by half a dozen Gallas attending uponone Rabah, the Chief who owns the Pass. [30] This is the African style oftoll-taking: the "pike" appears in the form of a plump of spearmen, andthe gate is a pair of lances thrown across the road. Not without trouble, for they feared to depart from the _mos majorum_, we persuaded them thatthe ass carried no merchandise. Then rounding Kondura's northern flank, weentered the Amir's territory: about thirty miles distant, and separated bya series of blue valleys, lay a dark speck upon a tawny sheet of stubble--Harar. 

Having paused for a moment to savour success, we began the descent. Theground was a slippery black soil--mist ever settles upon Kondura--andfrequent springs oozing from the rock formed beds of black mire. A fewhuge Birbisa trees, the remnant of a forest still thick around themountain's neck, marked out the road: they were branchy from stem tostern, and many had a girth of from twenty to twenty-five feet. [31]

After an hour's ride amongst thistles, whose flowers of a bright redlikeworsted were not less than a child's head, we watered our mules at a rillbelow the slope. Then remounting, we urged over hill and dale, where Gallapeasants were threshing and storing their grain with loud songs of joy;they were easily distinguished by their African features, mere caricaturesof the Somal, whose type has been Arabized by repeated immigrations fromYemen and Hadramaut. Late in the afternoon, having gained ten miles in astraight direction, we passed through a hedge of plantains, defending thewindward side of Gafra, a village of Midgans who collect the Gerad Adan'sgrain. They shouted delight on recognising their old friend, Mad Said, ledus to an empty Gambisa, swept and cleaned it, lighted a fire, turned ourmules into a field to graze, and went forth to seek food. Their hospitablethoughts, however, were marred by the two citizens of Harar, who privatelythreatened them with the Amir's wrath, if they dared to feed that Turk. 

As evening drew on, came a message from our enemies, the Habr Awal, whooffered, if we would wait till sunrise, to enter the city in our train. The Gerad Adan had counselled me not to provoke these men; so, contrary tothe advice of my two companions, I returned a polite answer, purportingthat we would expect them till eight o'clock the next morning. 

At 7 P. M. , on the 3rd January, we heard that the treacherous Habr Awal haddriven away their cows shortly after midnight. Seeing their hostileintentions, I left my journal, sketches, and other books in charge of anold Midgan, with directions that they should be forwarded to the GeradAdan, and determined to carry nothing but our arms and a few presents forthe Amir. We saddled our mules, mounted and rode hurriedly along the edgeof a picturesque chasm of tender pink granite, here and there obscured byluxuriant vegetation. In the centre, fringed with bright banks a shallowrill, called Doghlah, now brawls in tiny cascades, then whirls throughhuge boulders towards the Erar River. Presently, descending by a ladder ofrock scarcely safe even for mules, we followed the course of the burn, andemerging into the valley beneath, we pricked forwards rapidly, for day waswearing on, and we did not wish the Habr Awal to precede us. 

About noon we crossed the Erar River. The bed is about one hundred yardsbroad, and a thin sheet of clear, cool, and sweet water, covered withcrystal the greater part of the sand. According to my guides, its course, like that of the hills, is southerly towards the Webbe of Ogadayn [32]:none, however, could satisfy my curiosity concerning the course of theonly perennial stream which exists between Harar and the coast. 

In the lower valley, a mass of waving holcus, we met a multitude of Gallapeasants coming from the city market with new potlids and the empty gourdswhich had contained their butter, ghee, and milk: all wondered aloud atthe Turk, concerning whom they had heard many horrors. As we commencedanother ascent appeared a Harar Grandee mounted upon a handsomelycaparisoned mule and attended by seven servants who carried gourds andskins of grain. He was a pale-faced senior with a white beard, dressed ina fine Tobe and a snowy turban with scarlet edges: he carried no shield, but an Abyssinian broadsword was slung over his left shoulder. Weexchanged courteous salutations, and as I was thirsty he ordered a footmanto fill a cup with water. Half way up the hill appeared the 200 Girhicows, but those traitors, the Habr Awal, had hurried onwards. Upon thesummit was pointed out to me the village of Elaoda: in former times it wasa wealthy place belonging to the Gerad Adan. 

At 2 P. M. We fell into a narrow fenced lane and halted for a few minutesnear a spreading tree, under which sat women selling ghee and unspuncotton. About two miles distant on the crest of a hill, stood the city, --the end of my present travel, --a long sombre line, strikingly contrastingwith the white-washed towns of the East. The spectacle, materiallyspeaking, was a disappointment: nothing conspicuous appeared but two greyminarets of rude shape: many would have grudged exposing three lives towin so paltry a prize. But of all that have attempted, none ever succeededin entering that pile of stones: the thorough-bred traveller, dear L. , will understand my exultation, although my two companions exchangedglances of wonder. 

Spurring our mules we advanced at a long trot, when Mad Said stopped us torecite a Fatihah in honor of Ao Umar Siyad and Ao Rahmah, two great saintswho repose under a clump of trees near the road. The soil on both sides ofthe path is rich and red: masses of plantains, limes, and pomegranatesdenote the gardens, which are defended by a bleached cow's skull, stuckupon a short stick [33] and between them are plantations of coffee, bastard saffron, and the graceful Kat. About half a mile eastward of thetown appears a burn called Jalah or the Coffee Water: the crowd crossingit did not prevent my companions bathing, and whilst they donned cleanTobes I retired to the wayside, and sketched the town. 

These operations over, we resumed our way up a rough _tranchee_ ridgedwith stone and hedged with tall cactus. This ascends to an open plain. Onthe right lie the holcus fields, which reach to the town wall: the left isa heap of rude cemetery, and in front are the dark defences of Harar, withgroups of citizens loitering about the large gateway, and sitting in chatnear the ruined tomb of Ao Abdal. We arrived at 3 P. M. , after riding aboutfive hours, which were required to accomplish twenty miles in a straightdirection. [34]

Advancing to the gate, Mad Said accosted a warder, known by his long wandof office, and sent our salams to the Amir, saying that we came from Aden, and requested the honor of audience. Whilst he sped upon his errand, wesat at the foot of a round bastion, and were scrutinised, derided, andcatechized by the curious of both sexes, especially by that conventionallytermed the fair. The three Habr Awal presently approached and scowlinglyinquired why we had not apprised them of our intention to enter the city. It was now "war to the knife"--we did not deign a reply. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] It is worn for a year, during which modest women will not marry. Sometribes confine the symbol to widowhood, others extend it to all malerelations; a strip of white cotton, or even a white fillet, instead of theusual blue cloth, is used by the more civilized. 

[2] Cain is said to repose under Jebel Shamsan at Aden--an appropriatesepulchre. 

[3] This beast, called by the Somal Jambel, closely resembles the Sindhspecies. It is generally found in the plains and prairies. 

[4] In the Somali country, as in Kafirland, the Duwao or jackal ispeculiarly bold and fierce. Disdaining garbage, he carries off lambs andkids, and fastens upon a favourite _friandise_, the sheep's tail; thevictim runs away in terror, and unless the jackal be driven off by dogs, leaves a delicate piece of fat behind it. 

[5] The Somal call the owl "Shimbir libah"--the lion bird. 

[6] The plume was dark, chequered with white, but the bird was so wildthat no specimen could be procured. 

[7] The Arabs apply this term to tea. 

[8] The Dayyib of the Somal, and the Sinaubar of the Arabs; its line ofgrowth is hereabouts an altitude of 5000 feet. 

[9] Travellers in Central Africa describe exactly similar buildings, bell-shaped huts, the materials of which are stakes, clay and reed, conical atthe top, and looking like well-thatched corn-stacks. 

[10] Amongst the Fellatahs of Western Africa, only the royal huts aresurmounted by the ostrich's egg. 

[11] These platforms are found even amongst the races inhabiting theregions watered by the Niger. 

[12] Charred sticks about six feet long and curved at the handle. 

[13] Equally simple are the other implements. The plough, which in EasternAfrica has passed the limits of Egypt, is still the crooked tree of allprimitive people, drawn by oxen; and the hoe is a wooden blade insertedinto a knobbed handle. 

[14] It is afterwards stored in deep dry holes, which are carefullycovered to keep out rats and insects; thus the grain is preservedundamaged for three or four years. 

[15] This word is applied to the cultivated districts, the granaries ofSomali land. 

[16] "The huge raven with gibbous or inflated beak and white nape, " writesMr. Blyth, "is the corvus crassirostris of Ruppell, and, together with anearly similar Cape species, is referred to the genus Corvultur ofLeason. "

[17] In these hills it is said sometimes to freeze; I never saw ice. 

[18] It is a string of little silver bells and other ornaments made by theArabs at Berberah. 

[19] Harari, Somali and Galla, besides Arabic, and other more civilizeddialects. 

[20] The Negroes of Senegal and the Hottentots use wooden mortars. AtNatal and amongst the Amazulu Kafirs, the work is done with slabs androllers like those described above. 

[21] In the Eastern World this well-known fermentation is generally called"Buzab, " whence the old German word "busen" and our "booze. " The additionof a dose of garlic converts it into an emetic. 

[22] The Somal will not kill these plundering brutes, like the WesternAfricans believing them to be enchanted men. 

[23] Some years ago Adan plundered one of Sharmarkay's caravans; repentingthe action, he offered in marriage a daughter, who, however, died beforenuptials. 

[24] Gisti is a "princess" in Harari, equivalent to the Somali Geradah. 

[25] They are, however, divided into clans, of which the following are theprincipal:--

 1. Bahawiyah, the race which supplies the Gerads. 2. Abu Tunis (divided into ten septs). 3. Rer Ibrahim (similarly divided). 4. Jibril. 5. Bakasiyya. 6. Rer Muhmud. 7. Musa Dar. 8. Rer Auro. 9. Rer Walembo. 10. Rer Khalid. 

[26] I do not describe these people, the task having already beenperformed by many abler pens than mine. 

[27] They are divided into the Bah Ambaro (the chief's family) and theShaykhashed. 

[28] The only specimen of stunted humanity seen by me in the Somalicountry. He was about eighteen years old, and looked ten. 

[29] At first I thought of writing it in Arabic; but having no seal, a_sine qua non_ in an Eastern letter, and reflecting upon the consequencesof detection or even suspicion, it appeared more politic to come boldlyforward as a European. 

[30] It belongs, I was informed, to two clans of Gallas, who year by yearin turn monopolise the profits. 

[31] Of this tree are made the substantial doors, the basins and theporringers of Harar. 

[32] The Webbe Shebayli or Haines River. 

[33] This scarecrow is probably a talisman. In the Saharah, according toRichardson, the skull of an ass averts the evil eye from gardens. 

[34] The following is a table of our stations, directions, anddistances:--

 Miles1. From Zayla to Gudingaras S. E. 165° 192. To Kuranyali 145° 83. To Adad 225° 254. To Damal 205° 115. To El Arno 190° 116. To Jiyaf 202° 107. To Halimalah (the Holy Tree about half way) 192° 7 -- 91 miles. 8. To Aububah 245° 219. To Koralay 165° 2510. To Harar 260° 65 -- 111 miles. --- Total statute miles 202

[Illustration: COSTUMES OF HARAR]

CHAP. VIII. 

TEN DAYS AT HARAR. 

After waiting half an hour at the gate, we were told by the returnedwarder to pass the threshold, and remounting guided our mules along themain street, a narrow up-hill lane, with rocks cropping out from a surfacemore irregular than a Perote pavement. Long Guled had given his animalinto the hands of our two Bedouins: they did not appear till after ouraudience, when they informed us that the people at the entrance hadadvised them to escape with the beasts, an evil fate having been preparedfor the proprietors. 

Arrived within a hundred yards of the gate of holcus-stalks, which opensinto the courtyard of this African St. James, our guide, a blear-eyed, surly-faced, angry-voiced fellow, made signs--none of us understanding hisHarari--to dismount. We did so. He then began to trot, and roared outapparently that we must do the same. [1] We looked at one another, theHammal swore that he would perish foully rather than obey, and--conceive, dear L. , the idea of a petticoated pilgrim venerable as to beard andturban breaking into a long "double!"--I expressed much the samesentiment. Leading our mules leisurely, in spite of the guide's wrath, weentered the gate, strode down the yard, and were placed under a tree inits left corner, close to a low building of rough stone, which theclanking of frequent fetters argued to be a state-prison. 

This part of the court was crowded with Gallas, some lounging about, others squatting in the shade under the palace walls. The chiefs wereknown by their zinc armlets, composed of thin spiral circlets, closelyjoined, and extending in mass from the wrist almost to the elbow: allappeared to enjoy peculiar privileges, --they carried their long spears, wore their sandals, and walked leisurely about the royal precincts. Adelay of half an hour, during which state-affairs were being transactedwithin, gave me time to inspect a place of which so many and suchdifferent accounts are current. The palace itself is, as Clappertondescribes the Fellatah Sultan's state-hall, a mere shed, a long, single-storied, windowless barn of rough stone and reddish clay, with no otherinsignia but a thin coat of whitewash over the door. This is the royal andvizierial distinction at Harar, where no lesser man may stucco the wallsof his house. The courtyard was about eighty yards long by thirty inbreadth, irregularly shaped, and surrounded by low buildings: in thecentre, opposite the outer entrance, was a circle of masonry against whichwere propped divers doors. [2]

Presently the blear-eyed guide with the angry voice returned from within, released us from the importunities of certain forward and inquisitiveyouth, and motioned us to doff our slippers at a stone step, or ratherline, about twelve feet distant from the palace-wall. We grumbled that wewere not entering a mosque, but in vain. Then ensued a long dispute, intongues mutually unintelligible, about giving up our weapons: by dint ofobstinacy we retained our daggers and my revolver. The guide raised a doorcurtain, suggested a bow, and I stood in the presence of the dreadedchief. 

The Amir, or, as he styles himself, the Sultan Ahmad bin Sultan Abibakr, sat in a dark room with whitewashed walls, to which hung--significantdecorations--rusty matchlocks and polished fetters. His appearance wasthat of a little Indian Rajah, an etiolated youth twenty-four or twenty-five years old, plain and thin-bearded, with a yellow complexion, wrinkledbrows and protruding eyes. His dress was a flowing robe of crimson cloth, edged with snowy fur, and a narrow white turban tightly twisted round atall conical cap of red velvet, like the old Turkish headgear of ourpainters. His throne was a common Indian Kursi, or raised cot, about fivefeet long, with back and sides supported by a dwarf railing: being aninvalid he rested his elbow upon a pillow, under which appeared the hiltof a Cutch sabre. Ranged in double line, perpendicular to the Amir, stoodthe "court, " his cousins and nearest relations, with right arms baredafter fashion of Abyssinia. 

I entered the room with a loud "Peace be upon ye!" to which H. H. Replyinggraciously, and extending a hand, bony and yellow as a kite's claw, snapped his thumb and middle finger. Two chamberlains stepping forward, held my forearms, and assisted me to bend low over the fingers, whichhowever I did not kiss, being naturally averse to performing thatoperation upon any but a woman's hand. My two servants then took theirturn: in this case, after the back was saluted, the palm was presented fora repetition. [3] These preliminaries concluded, we were led to and seatedupon a mat in front of the Amir, who directed towards us a frowning browand an inquisitive eye. 

Some inquiries were made about the chief's health: he shook his headcaptiously, and inquired our errand. I drew from my pocket my own letter:it was carried by a chamberlain, with hands veiled in his Tobe, to theAmir, who after a brief glance laid it upon the couch, and demandedfurther explanation. I then represented in Arabic that we had come fromAden, bearing the compliments of our Daulah or governor, and that we hadentered Harar to see the light of H. H. 's countenance: this informationconcluded with a little speech, describing the changes of Political Agentsin Arabia, and alluding to the friendship formerly existing between theEnglish and the deceased chief Abubakr. 

The Amir smiled graciously. 

This smile I must own, dear L. , was a relief. We had been prepared for theworst, and the aspect of affairs in the palace was by no means reassuring. 

Whispering to his Treasurer, a little ugly man with a badly shaven head, coarse features, pug nose, angry eyes, and stubby beard, the Amir made asign for us to retire. The _baise main_ was repeated, and we backed out ofthe audience-shed in high favour. According to grandiloquent Bruce, "theCourt of London and that of Abyssinia are, in their principles, one:" theloiterers in the Harar palace yard, who had before regarded us with cut-throat looks, now smiled as though they loved us. Marshalled by the guard, we issued from the precincts, and after walking a hundred yards enteredthe Amir's second palace, which we were told to consider our home. Therewe found the Bedouins, who, scarcely believing that we had escaped alive, grinned in the joy of their hearts, and we were at once provided from thechief's kitchen with a dish of Shabta, holcus cakes soaked in sour milk, and thickly powdered with red pepper, the salt of this inland region. 

When we had eaten, the treasurer reappeared, bearing the Amir's command, that we should call upon his Wazir, the Gerad Mohammed. Resuming ourperegrinations, we entered an abode distinguished by its external streakof chunam, and in a small room on the ground floor, cleanly white-washedand adorned, like an old English kitchen, with varnished wooden porringersof various sizes, we found a venerable old man whose benevolentcountenance belied the reports current about him in Somali-land. [4] Halfrising, although his wrinkled brow showed suffering, he seated me by hisside upon the carpeted masonry-bench, where lay the implements of hiscraft, reeds, inkstands and whitewashed boards for paper, politelywelcomed me, and gravely stroking his cotton-coloured beard, desired myobject in good Arabic. 

I replied almost in the words used to the Amir, adding however somedetails how in the old day one Madar Farih had been charged by the lateSultan Abubakr with a present to the governor of Aden, and that it was thewish of our people to reestablish friendly relations and commercialintercourse with Harar. 

"Khayr inshallah!--it is well if Allah please!" ejaculated the Gerad: Ithen bent over his hand, and took leave. 

Returning we inquired anxiously of the treasurer about my servants' armswhich had not been returned, and were assured that they had been placed inthe safest of store-houses, the palace. I then sent a common six-barrelledrevolver as a present to the Amir, explaining its use to the bearer, andwe prepared to make ourselves as comfortable as possible. The interior ofour new house was a clean room, with plain walls, and a floor of tampedearth; opposite the entrance were two broad steps of masonry, raised abouttwo feet, and a yard above the ground, and covered with, hard matting. Icontrived to make upon the higher ledge a bed with the cushions which mycompanions used as shabracques, and, after seeing the mules fed andtethered, lay down to rest worn out by fatigue and profoundly impressedwith the _poesie_ of our position. I was under the roof of a bigotedprince whose least word was death; amongst a people who detest foreigners;the only European that had ever passed over their inhospitable threshold, and the fated instrument of their future downfall. 

 * * * * *

I now proceed to a description of unknown Harar. 

The ancient capital of Hadiyah, called by the citizens "Harar Gay, " [5] bythe Somal "Adari, " by the Gallas "Adaray" and by the Arabs and ourselves"Harar, " [6] lies, according to my dead reckoning, 220° S. W. Of, and 175statute miles from, Zayla--257° W. Of, and 219 miles distant from, Berberah. This would place it in 9° 20' N. Lat. And 42° 17' E. Long. Thethermometer showed an altitude of about 5, 500 feet above the level of thesea. [7] Its site is the slope of an hill which falls gently from west toeast. On the eastern side are cultivated fields; westwards a terracedridge is laid out in orchards; northwards is a detached eminence coveredwith tombs; and to the south, the city declines into a low valley bisectedby a mountain burn. This irregular position is well sheltered from highwinds, especially on the northern side, by the range of which Kondura isthe lofty apex; hence, as the Persian poet sings of a heaven-favouredcity, --

 "Its heat is not hot, nor its cold, cold. "

During my short residence the air reminded me of Tuscany. On the afternoonof the 11th January there was thunder accompanied by rain: frequentshowers fell on the 12th, and the morning of the 13th was clear; but, aswe crossed the mountains, black clouds obscured the heavens. The monsoonis heavy during one summer month; before it begins the crops are planted, and they are reaped in December and January. At other seasons the air isdry, mild, and equable. 

The province of Hadiyah is mentioned by Makrizi as one of the sevenmembers of the Zayla Empire [8], founded by Arab invaders, who in the 7thcentury of our aera conquered and colonised the low tract between the RedSea and the Highlands. Moslem Harar exercised a pernicious influence uponthe fortunes of Christian Abyssinia. [9]

The allegiance claimed by the AEthiopian Emperors from the Adel--theDankali and ancient Somal--was evaded at a remote period, and theintractable Moslems were propitiated with rich presents, when they thoughtproper to visit the Christian court. The Abyssinians supplied the Adelwith slaves, the latter returned the value in rock-salt, commercialintercourse united their interests, and from war resulted injury to bothpeople. Nevertheless the fanatic lowlanders, propense to pillage andproselytizing, burned the Christian churches, massacred the infidels, andtortured the priests, until they provoked a blood feud of uncommonasperity. 

In the 14th century (A. D. 1312-1342) Amda Sion, Emperor of AEthiopia, taunted by Amano, King of Hadiyah, as a monarch fit only to take care ofwomen, overran and plundered the Lowlands from Tegulet to the Red Sea. TheAmharas were commanded to spare nothing that drew the breath of life: tofulfil a prophecy which foretold the fall of El Islam, they perpetratedevery kind of enormity. 

Peace followed the death of Amda Sion. In the reign of Zara Yakub [10](A. D. 1434-1468), the flame of war was again fanned in Hadiyah by a Zaylaprincess who was slighted by the AEthiopian monarch on account of thelength of her fore-teeth: the hostilities which ensued were not, however, of an important nature. Boeda Mariana, the next occupant of the throne, passed his life in a constant struggle for supremacy over the Adel: on hisdeath-bed he caused himself to be so placed that his face looked towardsthose lowlands, upon whose subjugation the energies of ten years had beenvainly expended. 

At the close of the 15th century, Mahfuz, a bigoted Moslem, inflicted adeadly blow upon Abyssinia. Vowing that he would annually spend the fortydays of Lent amongst his infidel neighbours, when, weakened by rigorousfasts, they were less capable of bearing arms, for thirty successive yearshe burned churches and monasteries, slew without mercy every male thatfell in his way, and driving off the women and children, he sold some tostrange slavers, and presented others to the Sherifs of Mecca. He boughtover Za Salasah, commander in chief of the Emperor's body guard, andcaused the assassination of Alexander (A. D. 1478-1495) at the ancientcapital Tegulet. Naud, the successor, obtained some transient advantagesover the Moslems. During the earlier reign of the next emperor, David III. Son of Naud [11], who being but eleven years old when called to thethrone, was placed under the guardianship of his mother the Iteghe Helena, new combatants and new instruments of warfare appeared on both sides inthe field. 

After the conquest of Egypt and Arabia by Selim I. (A. D. 1516) [12] thecaravans of Abyssinian pilgrims travelling to Jerusalem were attacked, theold were butchered and the young were swept into slavery. Many Arabianmerchants fled from Turkish violence and injustice, to the opposite coastof Africa, whereupon the Ottomans took possession from Aden of Zayla, andnot only laid the Indian trade under heavy contributions by means of theirwar-galleys, but threatened the total destruction of Abyssinia. They aidedand encouraged Mahfuz to continue his depredations, whilst the Sherif ofMeccah gave him command of Zayla, the key of the upper country, andpresented him with the green banner of a Crusader. 

On the other hand, the great Albuquerque at the same time (A. D. 1508-1515)was viceroy of India, and to him the Iteghe Helena applied for aid. Herambassador arrived at Goa, "bearing a fragment of wood belonging to thetrue cross on which Christ died, " which relic had been sent as a token offriendship to her brother Emanuel by the empress of AEthiopia. The overturewas followed by the arrival at Masawwah of an embassy from the king ofPortugal. Too proud, however, to await foreign aid, David at the age ofsixteen took the field in person against the Moslems. 

During the battle that ensued, Mahfuz, the Goliath of the Unbelievers, wasslain in single combat by Gabriel Andreas, a soldier of tried valour, whohad assumed the monastic life in consequence of having lost the tip of histongue for treasonable freedom of speech: the green standard was captured, and 12, 000 Moslems fell. David followed up his success by invading thelowlands, and, in defiance, struck his spear through the door of the kingof Adel. 

Harar was a mere mass of Bedouin villages during the reign of MohammedGragne, the "left-handed" Attila of Adel. [13] Supplied with Arabmercenaries from Mocha, and by the Turks of Yemen with a body ofJanissaries and a train of artillery, he burst into Efat and Fatigar. InA. D. 1528 he took possession of Shoa, overran Amhara, burned the churchesand carried away an immense booty. The next campaign enabled him to winterat Begmeder: in the following year he hunted the Emperor David throughTigre to the borders of Senaar, gave battle to the Christians on the banksof the Nile, and with his own hand killed the monk Gabriel, then an oldman. Reinforced by Gideon and Judith, king and queen of the Samen Jews, and aided by a violent famine which prostrated what had escaped the spear, he perpetrated every manner of atrocity, captured and burned Axum, destroyed the princes of the royal blood on the mountain of Amba Geshe[14], and slew in A. D. 1540, David, third of his name and last emperor ofAEthiopia who displayed the magnificence of "King of Kings. "

Claudius, the successor to the tottering throne, sent as his ambassador toEurope, one John Bermudez, a Portuguese, who had been detained inAbyssinia, and promised, it is said, submission to the Pontiff of Rome, and the cession of the third of his dominions in return forreinforcements. By order of John III. , Don Stephen and Don Christopher, sons of Don Vasco de Gama, cruised up the Red Sea with a powerfulflotilla, and the younger brother, landing at Masawwah with 400musqueteers, slew Nur the governor and sent his head to Gondar, where theIteghe Sabel Wenghel received it as an omen of good fortune. Thence thePortuguese general imprudently marched in the monsoon season, and was soonconfronted upon the plain of Ballut by Mohammed Gragne at the head of10, 000 spearmen and a host of cavalry. On the other side stood a rabblerout of Abyssinians, and a little band of 350 Portuguese heroes headed bythe most chivalrous soldier of a chivalrous age. 

According to Father Jerome Lobo [15], who heard the events from an eye-witness, a conference took place between the two captains. Mohammed, encamped in a commanding position, sent a message to Don Christopherinforming him that the treacherous Abyssinians had imposed upon the kingof Portugal, and that in compassion of his opponent's youth, he would givehim and his men free passage and supplies to their own country. TheChristian presented the Moslem ambassador with a rich robe, and returnedthis gallant answer, that "he and his fellow-soldiers were come with anintention to drive Mohammed out of these countries which he had wrongfullyusurped; that his present design was, instead of returning back the way hecame, as Mohammed advised, to open himself a passage through the countryof his enemies; that Mohammed should rather think of determining whetherhe would fight or yield up his ill-gotten territories than of prescribingmeasures to him; that he put his whole confidence in the omnipotence ofGod, and the justice of his cause; and that to show how full a sense hehad of Mohammed's kindness, he took the liberty of presenting him with alooking-glass and a pair of pincers. "

The answer and the present so provoked the Adel Monarch that he arose fromtable to attack the little troop of Portuguese, posted upon the declivityof a hill near a wood. Above them stood the Abyssinians, who resolved toremain quiet spectators of the battle, and to declare themselves on theside favoured by victory. 

Mohammed began the assault with only ten horsemen, against whom an equalnumber of Portuguese were detached: these fired with so much exactnessthat nine of the Moors fell and the king was wounded in the leg by Peterde Sa. In the melee which ensued, the Moslems, dismayed by their firstfailure, were soon broken by the Portuguese muskets and artillery. Mohammed preserved his life with difficulty, he however rallied his men, and entrenched himself at a strong place called Membret (Mamrat), intending to winter there and await succour. 

The Portuguese, more desirous of glory than wealth, pursued their enemies, hoping to cut them entirely off: finding, however, the camp impregnable, they entrenched themselves on a hill over against it. Their little hostdiminished day by day, their friends at Masawwah could not reinforce them, they knew not how to procure provisions, and could not depend upon theirAbyssinian allies. Yet memorious of their countrymen's great deeds, anddepending upon divine protection, they made no doubt of surmounting alldifficulties. 

Mohammed on his part was not idle. He solicited the assistance of theMoslem princes, and by inflaming their religious zeal, obtained areinforcement of 2000 musqueteers from the Arabs, and a train of artilleryfrom the Turks of Yemen. Animated by these succours, he marched out of histrenches to enter those of the Portuguese, who received him with theutmost bravery, destroyed many of his men, and made frequent sallies, not, however, without sustaining considerable losses. 

Don Christopher had already one arm broken and a knee shattered by amusket shot. Valour was at length oppressed by superiority of numbers: theenemy entered the camp, and put the Christians to the spear. ThePortuguese general escaped the slaughter with ten men, and retreated to awood, where they were discovered by a detachment of the enemy. [16]Mohammed, overjoyed to see his most formidable enemy in his power, orderedDon Christopher to take care of a wounded uncle and nephew, telling himthat he should answer for their lives, and upon their death, taxed himwith having hastened it. The Portuguese roundly replied that he was cometo destroy Moslems, not to save them. Enraged at this language, Mohammedplaced a stone upon his captive's head, and exposed him to the insults ofthe soldiery, who inflicted upon him various tortures which he bore withthe resolution of a martyr. At length, when offered a return to India asthe price of apostacy, the hero's spirit took fire. He answered with thehighest indignation, that nothing could make him forsake his HeavenlyMaster to follow an "imposter, " and continued in the severest terms tovilify the "false Prophet, " till Mahommed struck off his head. [17] Thebody was divided into quarters and sent to different places [18], but theCatholics gathered their martyr's remains and interred them. Every Moorwho passed by threw a stone upon the grave, and raised in time such a heapthat Father Lobo found difficulty in removing it to exhume the relics. Heconcludes with a pardonable superstition: "There is a tradition in thecountry, that in the place where Don Christopher's head fell, a fountainsprang up of wonderful virtue, which cured many diseases, otherwise pastremedy. "

Mohammed Gragne improved his victory by chasing the young Claudius overAbyssinia, where nothing opposed the progress of his arms. At last the fewPortuguese survivors repaired to the Christian emperor, who was persuadedto march an army against the King of Adel. Resolved to revenge theirgeneral, the musqueteers demanded the post opposite Mohammed, and directedall their efforts against the part where the Moslem Attila stood. Hisfellow religionists still relate that when Gragne fell in action, his wifeTalwambara [19], the heroic daughter of Mahfuz, to prevent the destructionand dispersion of the host of Islam, buried the corpse privately, andcaused a slave to personate the prince until a retreat to safe landsenabled her to discover the stratagem to the nobles. [20]

Father Lobo tells a different tale. According to him, Peter Leon, amarksman of low stature, but passing valiant, who had been servant to DonChristopher, singled the Adel king out of the crowd, and shot him in thehead as he was encouraging his men. Mohammed was followed by his enemytill he fell down dead: the Portuguese then alighting from his horse, cutoff one of his ears and rejoined his fellow-countrymen. The Moslems weredefeated with great slaughter, and an Abyssinian chief finding Gragne'scorpse upon the ground, presented the head to the Negush or Emperor, claiming the honor of having slain his country's deadliest foe. Havingwitnessed in silence this impudence, Peter asked whether the king had butone ear, and produced the other from his pocket to the confusion of theAbyssinian. 

Thus perished, after fourteen years' uninterrupted fighting, the Africanhero, who dashed to pieces the structure of 2500 years. Like the"Kardillan" of the Holy Land, Mohammed Gragne is still the subject of manya wild and grisly legend. And to the present day the people of Shoa retainan inherited dread of the lowland Moslems. 

Mohammed was succeeded on the throne of Adel by the Amir Nur, son ofMajid, and, according to some, brother to the "Left-handed. " He proposedmarriage to Talwambara, who accepted him on condition that he should laythe head of the Emperor Claudius at her feet. In A. D. 1559, he sent amessage of defiance to the Negush, who, having saved Abyssinia almost by amiracle, was rebuilding on Debra Work, the "Golden Mount, " a celebratedshrine which had been burned by the Moslems. Claudius, despising theeclipses, evil prophecies, and portents which accompanied his enemy'sprogress, accepted the challenge. On the 22nd March 1559, the armies wereupon the point of engaging, when the high priest of Debra Libanos, hastening into the presence of the Negush, declared that in a vision, Gabriel had ordered him to dissuade the Emperor of AEthiopia fromneedlessly risking life. The superstitious Abyssinians fled, leavingClaudius supported by a handful of Portuguese, who were soon slain aroundhim, and he fell covered with wounds. The Amir Nur cut off his head, andlaid it at the feet of Talwambara, who, in observance of her pledge, became his wife. This Amazon suspended the trophy by its hair to thebranch of a tree opposite her abode, that her eyes might be gladdened bythe sight: after hanging two years, it was purchased by an Armenianmerchant, who interred it in the Sepulchre of St. Claudius at Antioch. Thename of the Christian hero who won every action save that in which heperished, has been enrolled in the voluminous catalogue of Abyssiniansaints, where it occupies a conspicuous place as the destroyer of Mohammedthe Left-handed. 

The Amir Nur has also been canonized by his countrymen, who have buriedtheir favourite "Wali" under a little dome near the Jami Mosque at Harar. Shortly after his decisive victory over the Christians, he surrounded thecity with its present wall, --a circumstance now invested with the garb ofMoslem fable. The warrior used to hold frequent conversations with ElKhizr: on one occasion, when sitting upon a rock, still called GayHumburti--Harar's Navel--he begged that some Sherif might be brought fromMeccah, to aid him in building a permanent city. By the use of the "GreatName" the vagrant prophet instantly summoned from Arabia the Sherif Yunis, his son Fakr el Din, and a descendant from the Ansar or Auxiliaries of theProphet: they settled at Harar, which throve by the blessing of theirpresence. From this tradition we may gather that the city was restored, asit was first founded and colonized, by hungry Arabs. 

The Sherifs continued to rule with some interruptions until but a fewgenerations ago, when the present family rose to power. According toBruce, they are Jabartis, who, having intermarried with Sayyid women, claim a noble origin. They derive themselves from the Caliph Abubakr, orfrom Akil, son of Abu Talib, and brother of Ali. The Ulema, althoughlacking boldness to make the assertion, evidently believe them to be ofGalla or pagan extraction. 

The present city of Harar is about one mile long by half that breadth. Anirregular wall, lately repaired [21], but ignorant of cannon, is piercedwith five large gates [22], and supported by oval towers of artlessconstruction. The material of the houses and defences are rough stones, the granites and sandstones of the hills, cemented, like the ancient Gallacities, with clay. The only large building is the Jami or Cathedral, along barn of poverty-stricken appearance, with broken-down gates, and twowhite-washed minarets of truncated conoid shape. They were built byTurkish architects from Mocha and Hodaydah: one of them lately fell, andhas been replaced by an inferior effort of Harari art. There are a fewtrees in the city, but it contains none of those gardens which give toEastern settlements that pleasant view of town and country combined. Thestreets are narrow lanes, up hill and down dale, strewed with giganticrubbish-heaps, upon which repose packs of mangy or one-eyed dogs, and eventhe best are encumbered with rocks and stones. The habitations are mostlylong, flat-roofed sheds, double storied, with doors composed of a singleplank, and holes for windows pierced high above the ground, and decoratedwith miserable wood-work: the principal houses have separate apartmentsfor the women, and stand at the bottom of large court-yards closed bygates of Holcus stalks. The poorest classes inhabit "Gambisa, " thethatched cottages of the hill-cultivators. The city abounds in mosques, plain buildings without minarets, and in graveyards stuffed with tombs, --oblong troughs formed by long slabs planted edgeways in the ground. I needscarcely say that Harar is proud of her learning, sanctity, and holy dead. The principal saint buried in the city is Shaykh Umar Abadir El Bakri, originally from Jeddah, and now the patron of Harar: he lies under alittle dome in the southern quarter of the city, near the Bisidimo Gate. 

The ancient capital of Hadiyah shares with Zebid in Yemen, the reputationof being an Alma Mater, and inundates the surrounding districts with poorscholars and crazy "Widads. " Where knowledge leads to nothing, saysphilosophic Volney, nothing is done to acquire it, and the mind remains ina state of barbarism. There are no establishments for learning, noendowments, as generally in the East, and apparently no encouragement tostudents: books also are rare and costly. None but the religious sciencesare cultivated. The chief Ulema are the Kabir [23] Khalil, the KabirYunis, and the Shaykh Jami: the two former scarcely ever quit theirhouses, devoting all their time to study and tuition: the latter is aSomali who takes an active part in politics. 

These professors teach Moslem literature through the medium of Harari, apeculiar dialect confined within the walls. Like the Somali and othertongues in this part of Eastern Africa, it appears to be partly Arabic inetymology and grammar: the Semitic scion being grafted upon an indigenousroot: the frequent recurrence of the guttural _kh_ renders it harsh andunpleasant, and it contains no literature except songs and tales, whichare written in the modern Naskhi character. I would willingly have studiedit deeply, but circumstances prevented:--the explorer too frequently mustrest satisfied with descrying from his Pisgah the Promised Land ofKnowledge, which another more fortunate is destined to conquer. At Zayla, the Hajj sent to me an Abyssinian slave who was cunning in languages: buthe, to use the popular phrase, "showed his right ear with his left hand. "Inside Harar, we were so closely watched that it was found impossible toput pen to paper. Escaped, however, to Wilensi, I hastily collected thegrammatical forms and a vocabulary, which will correct the popularassertion that "the language is Arabic: it has an affinity with theAmharic. " [24]

Harar has not only its own tongue, unintelligible to any save thecitizens; even its little population of about 8000 souls is a distinctrace. The Somal say of the city that it is a Paradise inhabited by asses:certainly the exterior of the people is highly unprepossessing. Amongstthe men, I did not see a handsome face: their features are coarse anddebauched; many of them squint, others have lost an eye by small-pox, andthey are disfigured by scrofula and other diseases: the bad expression oftheir countenances justifies the proverb, "Hard as the heart of Harar. "Generally the complexion is a yellowish brown, the beard short, stubby anduntractable as the hair, and the hands and wrists, feet and ancles, arelarge and ill-made. The stature is moderate-sized, some of the elders showthe "pudding sides" and the pulpy stomachs of Banyans, whilst others arelank and bony as Arabs or Jews. Their voices are loud and rude. They dressis a mixture of Arab and Abyssinian. They shave the head, and clip themustachios and imperial close, like the Shafei of Yemen. Many arebareheaded, some wear a cap, generally the embroidered Indian work, or thecommon cotton Takiyah of Egypt: a few affect white turbans of the fineHarar work, loosely twisted over the ears. The body-garment is the Tobe, worn flowing as in the Somali country or girt with the dagger-strap roundthe waist: the richer classes bind under it a Futah or loin-cloth, and thedignitaries have wide Arab drawers of white calico. Coarse leathernsandals, a rosary and a tooth-stick rendered perpetually necessary by thehabit of chewing tobacco, complete the costume: and arms being forbiddenin the streets, the citizens carry wands five or six feet long. 

The women, who, owing probably to the number of female slaves, are muchthe more numerous, appear beautiful by contrast with their lords. Theyhave small heads, regular profiles, straight noses, large eyes, mouthsapproaching the Caucasian type, and light yellow complexions. Dress, however, here is a disguise to charms. A long, wide, cotton shirt, withshort arms as in the Arab's Aba, indigo-dyed or chocolate-coloured, andornamented with a triangle of scarlet before and behind--the base on theshoulder and the apex at the waist--is girt round the middle with a sashof white cotton crimson-edged. Women of the upper class, when leaving thehouse, throw a blue sheet over the head, which, however, is rarely veiled. The front and back hair parted in the centre is gathered into two largebunches below the ears, and covered with dark blue muslin or network, whose ends meet under the chin. This coiffure is bound round the head atthe junction of scalp and skin by a black satin ribbon which varies inbreadth according to the wearer's means: some adorn the gear with largegilt pins, others twine in it a Taj or thin wreath of sweet-smellingcreeper. The virgins collect their locks, which are generally wavy notwiry, and grow long as well as thick, into a knot tied _a la Diane_ behindthe head: a curtain of short close plaits escaping from the bunch, fallsupon the shoulders, not ungracefully. Silver ornaments are worn only bypersons of rank. The ear is decorated with Somali rings or red coralbeads, the neck with necklaces of the same material, and the fore-armswith six or seven of the broad circles of buffalo and other dark hornsprepared in Western India. Finally, stars are tattooed upon the bosom, theeyebrows are lengthened with dyes, the eyes fringed with Kohl, and thehands and feet stained with henna. 

The female voice is harsh and screaming, especially when heard after thedelicate organs of the Somal. The fair sex is occupied at home spinningcotton thread for weaving Tobes, sashes, and turbans; carrying theirprogeny perched upon their backs, they bring water from the wells in largegourds borne on the head; work in the gardens, and--the men considering, like the Abyssinians, such work a disgrace--sit and sell in the longstreet which here represents the Eastern bazar. Chewing tobacco enablesthem to pass much of their time, and the rich diligently anoint themselveswith ghee, whilst the poorer classes use remnants of fat from the lamps. Their freedom of manners renders a public flogging occasionallyindispensable. Before the operation begins, a few gourds full of coldwater are poured over their heads and shoulders, after which a single-thonged whip is applied with vigour. [25]

Both sexes are celebrated for laxity of morals. High and low indulgefreely in intoxicating drinks, beer, and mead. The Amir has establishedstrict patrols, who unmercifully bastinado those caught in the streetsafter a certain hour. They are extremely bigoted, especially againstChristians, the effect of their Abyssinian wars, and are fond of"Jihading" with the Gallas, over whom they boast many a victory. I haveseen a letter addressed by the late Amir to the Hajj Sharmarkay, in whichhe boasts of having slain a thousand infidels, and, by way of bathos, begsfor a few pounds of English gunpowder. The Harari hold foreigners inespecial hate and contempt, and divide them into two orders, Arabs andSomal. [26] The latter, though nearly one third of the population, or 2500souls, are, to use their own phrase, cheap as dust: their natural timidityis increased by the show of pomp and power, whilst the word "prison" givesthem the horrors. 

The other inhabitants are about 3000 Bedouins, who "come and go. " Up tothe city gates the country is peopled by the Gallas. This unruly racerequires to be propitiated by presents of cloth; as many as 600 Tobes areannually distributed amongst them by the Amir. Lately, when the smallpox, spreading from the city, destroyed many of their number, the relations ofthe deceased demanded and received blood-money: they might easily capturethe place, but they preserve it for their own convenience. These Gallasare tolerably brave, avoid matchlock balls by throwing themselves upon theground when they see the flash, ride well, use the spear skilfully, andalthough of a proverbially bad breed, are favourably spoken of by thecitizens. The Somal find no difficulty in travelling amongst them. Irepeatedly heard at Zayla and at Harar that traders had visited the farWest, traversing for seven months a country of pagans wearing goldenbracelets [27], till they reached the Salt Sea, upon which Franks sail inships. [28] At Wilensi, one Mohammed, a Shaykhash, gave me his itineraryof fifteen stages to the sources of the Abbay or Blue Nile: he confirmedthe vulgar Somali report that the Hawash and the Webbe Shebayli both takerise in the same range of well wooded mountains which gives birth to theriver of Egypt. 

The government of Harar is the Amir. These petty princes have a habit ofkilling and imprisoning all those who are suspected of aspiring to thethrone. [29] Ahmed's greatgrandfather died in jail, and his fathernarrowly escaped the same fate. When the present Amir ascended the thronehe was ordered, it is said, by the Makad or chief of the Nole Gallas, torelease his prisoners, or to mount his horse and leave the city. Three ofhis cousins, however, were, when I visited Harar, in confinement: one ofthem since that time died, and has been buried in his fetters. The Somaldeclare that the state-dungeon of Harar is beneath the palace, and that hewho once enters it, lives with unkempt beard and untrimmed nails until theday when death sets him free. 

The Amir Ahmed's health is infirm. Some attribute his weakness to a fallfrom a horse, others declare him to have been poisoned by one of hiswives. [30] I judged him consumptive. Shortly after my departure he wasupon the point of death, and he afterwards sent for a physician to Aden. He has four wives. No. 1. Is the daughter of the Gerad Hirsi; No. 2. ASayyid woman of Harar; No. 3. An emancipated slave girl; and No. 4. Adaughter of Gerad Abd el Majid, one of his nobles. He has two sons, whowill probably never ascend the throne; one is an infant, the other is aboy now about five years old. 

[Illustration]

The Amir Ahmed succeeded his father about three years ago. His rule issevere if not just, and it has all the _prestige_ of secresy. As theAmharas say, the "belly of the Master is not known:" even the GeradMohammed, though summoned to council at all times, in sickness as inhealth, dares not offer uncalled-for advice, and the queen dowager, theGisti Fatimah, was threatened with fetters if she persisted ininterference. Ahmed's principal occupations are spying his many stalwartcousins, indulging in vain fears of the English, the Turks, and the HajjSharmarkay, and amassing treasure by commerce and escheats. He judgescivil and religious causes in person, but he allows them with littleinterference to be settled by the Kazi, Abd el Rahman bin Umar el Harari:the latter, though a highly respectable person, is seldom troubled; rapiddecision being the general predilection. The punishments, when money formsno part of them, are mostly according to Koranic code. The murderer isplaced in the market street, blindfolded, and bound hand and foot; thenearest of kin to the deceased then strikes his neck with a sharp andheavy butcher's knife, and the corpse is given over to the relations forMoslem burial. If the blow prove ineffectual a pardon is generallygranted. When a citizen draws dagger upon another or commits any pettyoffence, he is bastinadoed in a peculiar manner: two men ply theirhorsewhips upon his back and breast, and the prince, in whose presence thepunishment is carried out, gives the order to stop. Theft is visited withamputation of the hand. The prison is the award of state offenders: it isterrible, because the captive is heavily ironed, lies in a filthy dungeon, and receives no food but what he can obtain from his own family, --seldomliberal under such circumstances, --buy or beg from his guards. Fines andconfiscations, as usual in the East, are favourite punishments with theruler. I met at Wilensi an old Harari, whose gardens and property had allbeen escheated, because his son fled from justice, after slaying a man. The Amir is said to have large hoards of silver, coffee, and ivory: myattendant the Hammal was once admitted into the inner palace, where he sawhuge boxes of ancient fashion supposed to contain dollars. The only speciecurrent in Harar is a diminutive brass piece called Mahallak [31]--hand-worked and almost as artless a medium as a modern Italian coin. It bearson one side the words:

 [Arabic] (Zaribat el Harar, the coinage of Harar. )

On the reverse is the date, A. H. 1248. The Amir pitilessly punishes allthose who pass in the city any other coin. 

The Amir Ahmed is alive to the fact that some state should hedge in aprince. Neither weapons nor rosaries are allowed in his presence; achamberlain's robe acts as spittoon; whenever anything is given to ortaken from him his hand must be kissed; even on horseback two attendantsfan him with the hems of their garments. Except when engaged on theHaronic visits which he, like his father [32], pays to the streets andbyways at night, he is always surrounded by a strong body guard. He ridesto mosque escorted by a dozen horsemen, and a score of footmen with gunsand whips precede him: by his side walks an officer shading him with ahuge and heavily fringed red satin umbrella, --from India to Abyssinia thesign of princely dignity. Even at his prayers two or three chosenmatchlockmen stand over him with lighted fusees. When he rides forth inpublic, he is escorted by a party of fifty men: the running footmen cracktheir whips and shout "Let! Let!" (Go! Go!) and the citizens avoid stripesby retreating into the nearest house, or running into another street. 

The army of Harar is not imposing. There are between forty and fiftymatchlockmen of Arab origin, long settled in the place, and commanded by aveteran Maghrebi. They receive for pay one dollar's worth of holcus perannum, a quantity sufficient to afford five or six loaves a day: theluxuries of life must be provided by the exercise of some peaceful craft. Including slaves, the total of armed men may be two hundred: of these onecarries a Somali or Galla spear, another a dagger, and a third a sword, which is generally the old German cavalry blade. Cannon of small calibreis supposed to be concealed in the palace, but none probably knows theiruse. The city may contain thirty horses, of which a dozen are royalproperty: they are miserable ponies, but well trained to the rocks andhills. The Galla Bedouins would oppose an invader with a strong force ofspearmen, the approaches to the city are difficult and dangerous, but itis commanded from the north and west, and the walls would crumble at thetouch of a six-pounder. Three hundred Arabs and two gallopper guns wouldtake Harar in an hour. 

Harar is essentially a commercial town: its citizens live, like those ofZayla, by systematically defrauding the Galla Bedouins, and the Amir hasmade it a penal offence to buy by weight and scale. He receives, asoctroi, from eight to fifteen cubits of Cutch canvass for every donkey-load passing the gates, consequently the beast is so burdened that it mustbe supported by the drivers. Cultivators are taxed ten per cent. , thegeneral and easy rate of this part of Africa, but they pay in kind, whichconsiderably increases the Government share. The greatest merchant maybring to Harar 50_l. _ worth of goods, and he who has 20_l. _ of capital isconsidered a wealthy man. The citizens seem to have a more than Asiaticapathy, even in pursuit of gain. When we entered, a caravan was to set outfor Zayla on the morrow; after ten days, hardly one half of its number hadmustered. The four marches from the city eastward are rarely made under afortnight, and the average rate of their Kafilahs is not so high even asthat of the Somal. 

The principal exports from Harar are slaves, ivory, coffee, tobacco, Wars(safflower or bastard saffron), Tobes and woven cottons, mules, holcus, wheat, "Karanji, " a kind of bread used by travellers, ghee, honey, gums(principally mastic and myrrh), and finally sheep's fat and tallows of allsorts. The imports are American sheeting, and other cottons, white anddyed, muslins, red shawls, silks, brass, sheet copper, cutlery (generallythe cheap German), Birmingham trinkets, beads and coral, dates, rice, andloaf sugar, gunpowder, paper, and the various other wants of a city in thewild. 

Harar is still, as of old [33], the great "half way house" for slaves fromZangaro, Gurague, and the Galla tribes, Alo and others [34]: Abyssiniansand Amharas, the most valued [35], have become rare since the King of Shoaprohibited the exportation. Women vary in value from 100 to 400 Ashrafis, boys from 9 to 150: the worst are kept for domestic purposes, the best aredriven and exported by the Western Arabs [36] or by the subjects of H. H. The Imam of Muscat, in exchange for rice and dates. I need scarcely saythat commerce would thrive on the decline of slavery: whilst the Felateasor man-razzias are allowed to continue, it is vain to expect industry inthe land. 

Ivory at Harar amongst the Kafirs is a royal monopoly, and the Amircarries on the one-sided system of trade, common to African monarchs. Elephants abound in Jarjar, the Erar forest, and in the Harirah and othervalleys, where they resort during the hot season, in cold descending tothe lower regions. The Gallas hunt the animals and receive for the spoil alittle cloth: the Amir sends his ivory to Berberah, and sells it by meansof a Wakil or agent. The smallest kind is called "Ruba Aj"(Quarter Ivory), the better description "Nuss Aj"(Half Ivory), whilst" Aj, " the best kind, fetches from thirty-two to forty dollars per Farasilah of 27 Arab pounds. [36]

The coffee of Harar is too well known in the markets of Europe to requiredescription: it grows in the gardens about the town, in greater quantitiesamongst the Western Gallas, and in perfection at Jarjar, a district ofabout seven days' journey from Harar on the Efat road. It is said that theAmir withholds this valuable article, fearing to glut the Berberah market:he has also forbidden the Harash, or coffee cultivators, to travel lestthe art of tending the tree be lost. When I visited Harar, the price perparcel of twenty-seven pounds was a quarter of a dollar, and the hire of acamel carrying twelve parcels to Berberah was five dollars: the profit didnot repay labour and risk. 

The tobacco of Harar is of a light yellow color, with good flavour, andmight be advantageously mixed with Syrian and other growths. The Alo, orWestern Gallas, the principal cultivators, plant it with the holcus, andreap it about five months afterwards. It is cocked for a fortnight, thewoody part is removed, and the leaf is packed in sacks for transportationto Berberah. At Harar, men prefer it for chewing as well as smoking: womengenerally use Surat tobacco. It is bought, like all similar articles, bythe eye, and about seventy pounds are to be had for a dollar. 

The Wars or Safflower is cultivated in considerable quantities around thecity: an abundance is grown in the lands of the Gallas. It is sown whenthe heavy rains have ceased, and is gathered about two months afterwards. This article, together with slaves, forms the staple commerce betweenBerberah and Muscat. In Arabia, men dye with it their cotton shirts, womenand children use it to stain the skin a bright yellow; besides the purposeof a cosmetic, it also serves as a preservative against cold. When Wars ischeap at Harar, a pound may be bought for a quarter of a dollar. 

The Tobes and sashes of Harar are considered equal to the celebratedcloths of Shoa: hand-woven, they as far surpass, in beauty and durability, the vapid produce of European manufactories, as the perfect hand of manexcels the finest machinery. On the windward coast, one of these garmentsis considered a handsome present for a chief. The Harari Tobe consists ofa double length of eleven cubits by two in breadth, with a border ofbright scarlet, and the average value of a good article, even in the city, is eight dollars. They are made of the fine long-stapled cotton, whichgrows plentifully upon these hills, and are soft as silk, whilst theirwarmth admirably adapts them for winter wear. The thread is spun by womenwith two wooden pins: the loom is worked by both sexes. 

Three caravans leave Harar every year for the Berberah market. The firststarts early in January, laden with coffee, Tobes, Wars, ghee, gums, andother articles to be bartered for cottons, silks, shawls, and Surattobacco. The second sets out in February. The principal caravan, conveyingslaves, mules, and other valuable articles, enters Berberah a few daysbefore the close of the season: it numbers about 3000 souls, and iscommanded by one of the Amir's principal officers, who enjoys the title ofEbi or leader. Any or all of these kafilahs might be stopped by spendingfour or five hundred dollars amongst the Jibril Abokr tribe, or even by asloop of war at the emporium. "He who commands at Berberah, holds thebeard of Harar in his hand, " is a saying which I heard even within thecity walls. 

The furniture of a house at Harar is simple, --a few skins, and in rarecases a Persian rug, stools, coarse mats, and Somali pillows, woodenspoons, and porringers shaped with a hatchet, finished with a knife, stained red, and brightly polished. The gourd is a conspicuous article;smoked inside and fitted with a cover of the same material, it serves ascup, bottle, pipe, and water-skin: a coarse and heavy kind of pottery, ofblack or brown clay, is used by some of the citizens. 

The inhabitants of Harar live well. The best meat, as in Abyssinia, isbeef: it rather resembled, however, in the dry season when I ate it, thelean and stringy sirloins of Old England in Hogarth's days. A hundred andtwenty chickens, or sixty-six full-grown fowls, may be purchased for adollar, and the citizens do not, like the Somal, consider them carrion. Goat's flesh is good, and the black-faced Berberah sheep, after the rains, is, here as elsewhere, delicious. The staff of life is holcus. Fruit growsalmost wild, but it is not prized as an article of food; the plantains arecoarse and bad, grapes seldom come to maturity; although the brabflourishes in every ravine, and the palm becomes a lofty tree, it has notbeen taught to fructify, and the citizens do not know how to dress, preserve, or pickle their limes and citrons. No vegetables but gourds areknown. From the cane, which thrives upon these hills, a little sugar ismade: the honey, of which, as the Abyssinians say, "the land stinks, " isthe general sweetener. The condiment of East Africa, is red pepper. 

 * * * * *

To resume, dear L. , the thread of our adventures at Harar. 

Immediately after arrival, we were called upon by the Arabs, a strangemixture. One, the Haji Mukhtar, was a Maghrebi from Fez: an expatriationof forty years had changed his hissing Arabic as little as his "rockyface. " This worthy had a coffee-garden assigned to him, as commander ofthe Amir's body-guard: he introduced himself to us, however, as amerchant, which led us to look upon him as a spy. Another, Haji Hasan, wasa thorough-bred Persian: he seemed to know everybody, and was on terms ofbosom friendship with half the world from Cairo to Calcutta, Moslem, Christian and Pagan. Amongst the rest was a boy from Meccah, a Muscat man, a native of Suez, and a citizen of Damascus: the others were Arabs fromYemen. All were most civil to us at first; but, afterwards, when ourinterviews with the Amir ceased, they took alarm, and prudently cut us. 

The Arabs were succeeded by the Somal, amongst whom the Hammal and LongGuled found relatives, friends, and acquaintances, who readily recognisedthem as government servants at Aden. These visitors at first came in fearand trembling with visions of the Harar jail: they desired my men toreturn the visit by night, and made frequent excuses for apparent want ofhospitality. Their apprehensions, however, soon vanished: presently theybegan to prepare entertainments, and, as we were without money, theywillingly supplied us with certain comforts of life. Our three Habr Awalenemies, seeing the tide of fortune settling in our favour, changed theirtactics: they threw the past upon their two Harari companions, andproposed themselves as Abbans on our return to Berberah. This offer waspolitely staved off; in the first place we were already provided withprotectors, and secondly these men belonged to the Ayyal Shirdon, a clanmost hostile to the Habr Gerhajis. They did not fail to do us all the harmin their power, but again my good star triumphed. 

After a day's repose, we were summoned by the Treasurer, early in theforenoon, to wait upon the Gerad Mohammed. Sword in hand, and followed bythe Hammal and Long Guled, I walked to the "palace, " and entering a littleground-floor-room on the right of and close to the audience-hall, foundthe minister sitting upon a large dais covered with Persian carpets. Hewas surrounded by six of his brother Gerads or councillors, two of them inturbans, the rest with bare and shaven heads: their Tobes, as is customaryon such occasions of ceremony, were allowed to fall beneath the waist. Thelower part of the hovel was covered with dependents, amongst whom my Somaltook their seats: it seemed to be customs' time, for names were beingregistered, and money changed hands. The Grandees were eating Kat, or asit is here called "Jat. " [37] One of the party prepared for the PrimeMinister the tenderest twigs of the tree, plucking off the points of eventhe softest leaves. Another pounded the plant with a little water in awooden mortar: of this paste, called "El Madkuk, " a bit was handed to eachperson, who, rolling it into a ball, dropped it into his mouth. All attimes, as is the custom, drank cold water from a smoked gourd, and seemedto dwell upon the sweet and pleasant draught. I could not but remark thefine flavour of the plant after the coarser quality grown in Yemen. Europeans perceive but little effect from it--friend S. And I once triedin vain a strong infusion--the Arabs, however, unaccustomed to stimulantsand narcotics, declare that, like opium eaters, they cannot live withoutthe excitement. It seems to produce in them a manner of dreamy enjoyment, which, exaggerated by time and distance, may have given rise to thatsplendid myth the Lotos, and the Lotophagi. It is held by the Ulema hereas in Arabia, "Akl el Salikin, " or the Food of the Pious, and literatiremark that it has the singular properties of enlivening the imagination, clearing the ideas, cheering the heart, diminishing sleep, and taking theplace of food. The people of Harar eat it every day from 9 A. M. Till nearnoon, when they dine and afterwards indulge in something stronger, --millet-beer and mead. 

The Gerad, after polite inquiries, seated me by his right hand upon theDais, where I ate Kat and fingered my rosary, whilst he transacted thebusiness of the day. Then one of the elders took from a little recess inthe wall a large book, and uncovering it, began to recite a long Dua orBlessing upon the Prophet: at the end of each period all present intonedthe response, "Allah bless our Lord Mohammed with his Progeny and hisCompanions, one and all!" This exercise lasting half an hour afforded methe opportunity, --much desired, --of making an impression. The reader, misled by a marginal reference, happened to say, "angels, Men, and Genii:"the Gerad took the book and found written, "Men, Angels, and Genii. "Opinions were divided as to the order of beings, when I explained thathuman nature, which amongst Moslems is _not_ a little lower than theangelic, ranked highest, because of it were created prophets, apostles, and saints, whereas the other is but a "Wasitah" or connection between theCreator and his creatures. My theology won general approbation and a fewkinder glances from the elders. 

Prayer concluded, a chamberlain whispered the Gerad, who arose, depositedhis black coral rosary, took up an inkstand, donned a white "Badan" orsleeveless Arab cloak over his cotton shirt, shuffled off the Dais intohis slippers, and disappeared. Presently we were summoned to an interviewwith the Amir: this time I was allowed to approach the outer door withcovered feet. Entering ceremoniously as before, I was motioned by thePrince to sit near the Gerad, who occupied a Persian rug on the ground tothe right of the throne: my two attendants squatted upon the humbler matsin front and at a greater distance. After sundry inquiries about thechanges that had taken place at Aden, the letter was suddenly produced bythe Amir, who looked upon it suspiciously and bade me explain itscontents. I was then asked by the Gerad whether it was my intention to buyand sell at Harar: the reply was, "We are no buyers nor sellers [38]; wehave become your guests to pay our respects to the Amir--whom may Allahpreserve!--and that the friendship between the two powers may endure. "This appearing satisfactory, I added, in lively remembrance of theproverbial delays of Africa, where two or three months may elapse before aletter is answered or a verbal message delivered, that perhaps the Princewould be pleased to dismiss us soon, as the air of Harar was too dry forme, and my attendants were in danger of the small-pox, then raging in thetown. The Amir, who was chary of words, bent towards the Gerad, whobriefly ejaculated, "The reply will be vouchsafed:" with thisunsatisfactory answer the interview ended. 

Shortly after arrival, I sent my Salam to one of the Ulema, Shaykh Jami ofthe Berteri Somal: he accepted the excuse of ill health, and at once cameto see me. This personage appeared in the form of a little black man agedabout forty, deeply pitted by small-pox, with a protruding brow, a tuftybeard and rather delicate features: his hands and feet were remarkablysmall. Married to a descendant of the Sherif Yunis, he had acquired greatreputation as an Alim or Savan, a peace-policy-man, and an ardent Moslem. Though an imperfect Arabic scholar, he proved remarkably well read in thereligious sciences, and even the Meccans had, it was said, paid him therespect of kissing his hand during his pilgrimage. In his secondcharacter, his success was not remarkable, the principal results being aspear-thrust in the head, and being generally told to read his books andleave men alone. Yet he is always doing good "lillah, " that is to say, gratis and for Allah's sake: his pugnacity and bluntness--the prerogativesof the "peaceful"--gave him some authority over the Amir, and he has oftenbeen employed on political missions amongst the different chiefs. Nor hashis ardour for propagandism been thoroughly gratified. He commenced histravels with an intention of winning the crown of glory without delay, bymurdering the British Resident at Aden [39]: struck, however, with theorder and justice of our rule, he changed his intentions and offered ElIslam to the officer, who received it so urbanely, that the simple Easternrepenting having intended to cut the Kafir's throat, began to prayfervently for his conversion. Since that time he has made it a point ofduty to attempt every infidel: I never heard, however, that he succeededwith a soul. 

The Shaykh's first visit did not end well. He informed me that the oldUsmanlis conquered Stamboul in the days of Umar. I imprudently objected tothe date, and he revenged himself for the injury done to his fame by thefavourite ecclesiastical process of privily damning me for a heretic, anda worse than heathen. Moreover he had sent me a kind of ritual which I hadperused in an hour and returned to him: this prepossessed the Shaykhstrongly against me, lightly "skimming" books being a form of idleness asyet unknown to the ponderous East. Our days at Harar were monotonousenough. In the morning we looked to the mules, drove out the cats--asgreat a nuisance here as at Aden--and ate for breakfast lumps of boiledbeef with peppered holcus-scones. We were kindly looked upon by oneSultan, a sick and decrepid Eunuch, who having served five Amirs, wasallowed to remain in the palace. To appearance he was mad: he wore uponhis poll a motley scratch wig, half white and half black, like Day andNight in masquerades. But his conduct was sane. At dawn he sent us badplantains, wheaten crusts, and cups of unpalatable coffee-tea [40], and, assisted by a crone more decrepid than himself, prepared for me his water-pipe, a gourd fitted with two reeds and a tile of baked clay by way ofbowl: now he "knagged" at the slave girls, who were slow to work, thenburst into a fury because some visitor ate Kat without offering it to him, or crossed the royal threshold in sandal or slipper. The other inmates ofthe house were Galla slave-girls, a great nuisance, especially oneBerille, an unlovely maid, whose shrill voice and shameless manners were asad scandal to pilgrims and pious Moslems. 

About 8 A. M. The Somal sent us gifts of citrons, plantains, sugar-cane, limes, wheaten bread, and stewed fowls. At the same time the house becamefull of visitors, Harari and others, most of them pretexting inquiriesafter old Sultan's health. Noon was generally followed by a littlesolitude, the people retiring to dinner and siesta: we were then againprovided with bread and beef from the Amir's kitchen. In the afternoon thehouse again filled, and the visitors dispersed only for supper. Beforesunset we were careful to visit the mules tethered in the court-yard;being half starved they often attempted to desert. [41]

It was harvest home at Harar, a circumstance which worked us much annoy. In the mornings the Amir, attended by forty or fifty guards, rode to ahill north of the city, where he inspected his Galla reapers andthreshers, and these men were feasted every evening at our quarters withflesh, beer, and mead. [42] The strong drinks caused many a wordy war, andwe made a point of exhorting the pagans, with poor success I own, to purerlives. 

We spent our _soiree_ alternately bepreaching the Gallas, "chaffing" MadSaid, who, despite his seventy years, was a hale old Bedouin, with a saltand sullen repartee, and quarrelling with the slave-girls. Berille theloud-lunged, or Aminah the pert, would insist upon extinguishing the fat-fed lamp long ere bed-time, or would enter the room singing, laughing, dancing, and clapping a measure with their palms, when, stoutly aided byold Sultan, who shrieked like a hyaena on these occasions, we ejected herin extreme indignation. All then was silence without: not so--alas!--within. Mad Said snored fearfully, and Abtidon chatted half the night withsome Bedouin friend, who had dropped in to supper. On our hard couches wedid not enjoy either the _noctes_ or the _coenoe deorum_. 

The even tenor of such days was varied by a perpetual reference to therosary, consulting soothsayers, and listening to reports and rumoursbrought to us by the Somal in such profusion that we all sighed for adiscontinuance. The Gerad Mohammed, excited by the Habr Awal, was curiousin his inquiries concerning me: the astute Senior had heard of our leavingthe End of Time with the Gerad Adan, and his mind fell into the fancy thatwe were transacting some business for the Hajj Sharmarkay, the popularbugbear of Harar. Our fate was probably decided by the arrival of a youthof the Ayyal Gedid clan, who reported that three brothers had landed inthe Somali country, that two of them were anxiously awaiting at Berberahthe return of the third from Harar, and that, though dressed like Moslems, they were really Englishmen in government employ. Visions of cutting offcaravans began to assume a hard and palpable form: the Habr Awal ceasedintriguing, and the Gerad Mohammed resolved to adopt the _suaviter inmodo_ whilst dealing with his dangerous guest. 

Some days after his first visit, the Shaykh Jami, sending for the Hammal, informed him of an intended trip from Harar: my follower suggested that wemight well escort him. The good Shaykh at once offered to apply for leavefrom the Gerad Mohammed; not, however, finding the minister at home, heasked us to meet him at the palace on the morrow, about the time of Kat-eating. 

We had so often been disappointed in our hopes of a final "lay-public, "that on this occasion much was not expected. However, about 6 A. M. , wewere all summoned, and entering the Gerad's levee-room were, as usual, courteously received. I had distinguished his complaint, --chronicbronchitis, --and resolving to make a final impression, related to him allits symptoms, and promised, on reaching Aden, to send the differentremedies employed by ourselves. He clung to the hope of escaping hissufferings, whilst the attendant courtiers looked on approvingly, andbegged me to lose no time. Presently the Gerad was sent for by the Amir, and after a few minutes I followed him, on this occasion, alone. Ensued along conversation about the state of Aden, of Zayla, of Berberah, and ofStamboul. The chief put a variety of questions about Arabia, and everyobject there: the answer was that the necessity of commerce confined us tothe gloomy rock. He used some obliging expressions about desiring ourfriendship, and having considerable respect for a people who built, heunderstood, large ships. I took the opportunity of praising Harar incautious phrase, and especially of regretting that its coffee was notbetter known amongst the Franks. The small wizen-faced man smiled, asMoslems say, the smile of Umar [43]: seeing his brow relax for the firsttime, I told him that, being now restored to health, we requested hiscommands for Aden. He signified consent with a nod, and the Gerad, withmany compliments, gave me a letter addressed to the Political Resident, and requested me to take charge of a mule as a present. I then arose, recited a short prayer, the gist of which was that the Amir's days andreign might be long in the land, and that the faces of his foes might beblackened here and hereafter, bent over his hand and retired. Returning tothe Gerad's levee-hut, I saw by the countenances of my two attendants thatthey were not a little anxious about the interview, and comforted themwith the whispered word "Achha"--"all right!"

Presently appeared the Gerad, accompanied by two men, who brought myservants' arms, and the revolver which I had sent to the prince. This wasa _contretemps_. It was clearly impossible to take back the present, besides which, I suspected some finesse to discover my feelings towardshim: the other course would ensure delay. I told the Gerad that the weaponwas intended especially to preserve the Amir's life, and for furthereffect, snapped caps in rapid succession to the infinite terror of theaugust company. The minister returned to his master, and soon brought backthe information that after a day or two another mule should be given tome. With suitable acknowledgments we arose, blessed the Gerad, bade adieuto the assembly, and departed joyful, the Hammal in his glee speakingbroken English, even in the Amir's courtyard. 

Returning home, we found the good Shaykh Jami, to whom we communicated thenews with many thanks for his friendly aid. I did my best to smooth histemper about Turkish history, and succeeded. Becoming communicative, heinformed me that the original object, of his visit was the offer of goodoffices, he having been informed that, in the town was a man who broughtdown the birds from heaven, and the citizens having been thrown into greatexcitement by the probable intentions of such a personage. Whilst he satwith us, Kabir Khalil, one of the principal Ulema, and one Haji Abdullah, a Shaykh of distinguished fame who had been dreaming dreams in our favour, sent their salams. This is one of the many occasions in which, during along residence in the East, I have had reason to be grateful to thelearned, whose influence over the people when unbiassed by bigotry isdecidedly for good. That evening there was great joy amongst the Somal, who had been alarmed for the safety of my companions: they brought thempresents of Harari Tobes, and a feast of fowls, limes, and wheaten breadfor the stranger. 

On the 11th of January I was sent for by the Gerad and received the secondmule. At noon we were visited by the Shaykh Jami, who, after a longdiscourse upon the subject of Sufiism [44], invited me to inspect hisbooks. When midday prayer was concluded we walked to his house, whichoccupies the very centre of the city: in its courtyard is "Gay Humburti, "the historic rock upon which Saint Nur held converse with the ProphetKhizr. The Shaykh, after seating us in a room about ten feet square, andlined with scholars and dusty tomes, began reading out a treatise upon thegenealogies of the Grand Masters, and showed me in half a dozen tracts thetenets of the different schools. The only valuable MS. In the place was afine old copy of the Koran; the Kamus and the Sihah were there [45], butby no means remarkable for beauty or correctness. Books at Harar aremostly antiques, copyists being exceedingly rare, and the square massivecharacter is more like Cufic with diacritical points, than the gracefulmodern Naskhi. I could not, however, but admire the bindings: no Easterncountry save Persia surpasses them in strength and appearance. After somedesultory conversation the Shaykh ushered us into an inner room, or rathera dark closet partitioned off from the study, and ranged us around theusual dish of boiled beef, holcus bread, and red pepper. After returningto the study we sat for a few minutes, --Easterns rarely remain long afterdinner, --and took leave, saying that we must call upon the Gerad Mohammed. 

Nothing worthy of mention occurred during our final visit to the minister. He begged me not to forget his remedies when we reached Aden: I told himthat without further loss of time we would start on the morrow, Friday, after prayers, and he simply ejaculated, "It is well, if Allah please!"Scarcely had we returned home, when the clouds, which had been gatheringsince noon, began to discharge heavy showers, and a few loud thunder-clapsto reverberate amongst the hills. We passed that evening surrounded by theSomal, who charged us with letters and many messages to Berberah. Ourintention was to mount early on Friday morning. When we awoke, however, amule had strayed and was not brought back for some hours. Before noonShaykh Jami called upon us, informed us that he would travel on the mostauspicious day--Monday--and exhorted us to patience, deprecating departureupon Friday, the Sabbath. Then he arose to take leave, blessed us at somelength, prayed that we might be borne upon the wings of safety, againadvised Monday, and promised at all events to meet us at Wilensi. 

I fear that the Shaykh's counsel was on this occasion likely to bedisregarded. We had been absent from our goods and chattels a wholefortnight: the people of Harar are famously fickle; we knew not what themorrow might bring forth from the Amir's mind--in fact, all these Africancities are prisons on a large scale, into which you enter by your ownwill, and, as the significant proverb says, you leave by another's. However, when the mosque prayers ended, a heavy shower and the stormyaspect of the sky preached patience more effectually than did the divine:we carefully tethered our mules, and unwillingly deferred our departuretill next morning. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] The Ashantees at customs' time run across the royal threshold toescape being seized and sacrificed; possibly the trace of the pagan riteis still preserved by Moslem Harar, where it is now held a mark of respectand always exacted from the citizens. 

[2] I afterwards learned that when a man neglects a summons his door isremoved to the royal court-yard on the first day; on the second, it isconfiscated. The door is a valuable and venerable article in this part ofAfrica. According to Bruce, Ptolemy Euergetes engraved it upon the AxumObelisk for the benefit of his newly conquered AEthiopian subjects, to whomit had been unknown. 

[3] In Abyssinia, according to the Lord of Geesh, this is a mark of royalfamiliarity and confidence. 

[4] About seven years ago the Hajj Sharmarkay of Zayla chose as his agentat Harar, one of the Amir's officers, a certain Hajj Jamitay. When thisman died Sharmarkay demanded an account from his sons; at Berberah theypromised to give it, but returning to Harar they were persuaded, it isbelieved, by the Gerad Mohammed, to forget their word. Upon thisSharmarkay's friends and relations, incited by one Husayn, a Somali whohad lived many years at Harar in the Amir's favour, wrote an insultingletter to the Gerad, beginning with, "No peace be upon thee, and noblessings of Allah, thou butcher! son of a butcher &c. &c. !" andconcluding with a threat to pinion him in the market-place as a warning tomen. Husayn carried the letter, which at first excited general terror;when, however, the attack did not take place, the Amir Abubakr imprisonedthe imprudent Somali till he died. Sharmarkay by way of reprisalspersuaded Alu, son of Sahlah Salaseh, king of Shoa, to seize about threehundred Harari citizens living in his dominions and to keep them two yearsin durance. 

The Amir Abubakr is said on his deathbed to have warned his son againstthe Gerad. When Ahmad reported his father's decease to Zayla, the HajjSharmarkay ordered a grand Maulid or Mass in honour of the departed. Sincethat time, however, there has been little intercourse and no cordialitybetween them. 

[5] Thus M. Isenberg (Preface to Ambaric Grammar, p. Iv. ) calls the cityHarrar or Ararge. 

[6] "Harar, " is not an uncommon name in this part of Eastern Africa:according to some, the city is so called from a kind of tree, according toothers, from the valley below it. 

[7] I say _about_: we were compelled to boil our thermometers at Wilensi, not venturing upon such operation within the city. 

[8] The other six were Efat, Arabini, Duaro, Sharka, Bali and Darah. 

[9] A circumstantial account of the Jihad or Moslem crusades is, I amtold, given in the Fath el Habashah, unfortunately a rare work. The Amirof Harar had but one volume, and the other is to be found at Mocha orHudaydah. 

[10] This prince built "Debra Berhan, " the "Hill of glory, " a churchdedicated to the Virgin Mary at Gondar. 

[11] A prince of many titles: he is generally called Wanag Suggad, "fearedamongst the lions, " because he spent the latter years of his life in thewild. 

[12] Yemen submitted to Sulayman Pasha in A. D. 1538. 

[13] "Gragne, " or in the Somali dialect "Guray, " means a left-handed man;Father Lobo errs in translating it "the Lame. "

[14] This exploit has been erroneously attributed to Nur, the successor ofMohammed. 

[15] This reverend Jesuit was commissioned in A. D. 1622, by the Count deVidigueira, Viceroy of the Indies, to discover where his relative DonChristopher was buried, and to procure some of the relics. Assisted by theson in law of the Abyssinian Emperor, Lobo marched with an army throughthe Gallas, found the martyr's teeth and lower jaw, his arms and a pictureof the Holy Virgin which he always carried about him. The precious remainswere forwarded to Goa. 

I love the style of this old father, so unjustly depreciated by ourwriters, and called ignorant peasant and liar by Bruce, because he claimedfor his fellow countrymen the honor of having discovered the CoyFountains. The Nemesis who never sleeps punished Bruce by the justest ofretributions. His pompous and inflated style, his uncommon arrogance, andover-weening vanity, his affectation of pedantry, his many errors andmisrepresentations, aroused against him a spirit which embittered the lastyears of his life. It is now the fashion to laud Bruce, and to pity hismisfortunes. I cannot but think that he deserved them. 

[16] Bruce, followed by most of our modern authors, relates acircumstantial and romantic story of the betrayal of Don Christopher byhis mistress, a Turkish lady of uncommon beauty, who had been madeprisoner. 

The more truth-like pages of Father Lobo record no such silly scandalagainst the memory of the "brave and holy Portuguese. " Those who are wellread in the works of the earlier eastern travellers will remember theirhorror of "handling heathens after that fashion. " And amongst those whofought for the faith an _affaire de coeur_ with a pretty pagan was held tobe a sin as deadly as heresy or magic. 

[17] Romantic writers relate that Mohammed decapitated the Christian withhis left hand. 

[18] Others assert, in direct contradiction to Father Lobo, that the bodywas sent to different parts of Arabia, and the head to Constantinople. 

[19] Bruce, followed by later authorities, writes this name Del Wumbarea. 

[20] Talwambara, according to the Christians, after her husband's death, and her army's defeat, threw herself into the wilds of Atbara, andrecovered her son Ali Gerad by releasing Prince Menas, the brother of theAbyssinian emperor, who in David's reign had been carried prisoner toAdel. 

The historian will admire these two widely different accounts of the left-handed hero's death. Upon the whole he will prefer the Moslem's traditionfrom the air of truth pervading it, and the various improbabilities whichappear in the more detailed story of the Christians. 

[21] Formerly the Waraba, creeping through the holes in the wall, renderedthe streets dangerous at night. They are now destroyed by opening thegates in the evening, enticing in the animals by slaughtering cattle, andclosing the doors upon them, when they are safely speared. 

[22] The following are the names of the gates in Harari and Somali:

_Eastward. _ Argob Bari (Bar in Amharic is a gate, _e. G. _ Ankobar, the gateof Anko, a Galla Queen, and Argob is the name of a Galla clan living inthis quarter), by the Somal called Erar. 

_North. _ Asum Bari (the gate of Axum), in Somali, Faldano or the Zaylaentrance. 

_West. _ Asmadim Bari or Hamaraisa. 

_South. _ Badro Bari or Bab Bida. 

_South East. _ Sukutal Bari or Bisidimo. 

At all times these gates are carefully guarded; in the evening the keysare taken to the Amir, after which no one can leave the city till dawn. 

[23] Kabir in Arabic means great, and is usually applied to the Almighty;here it is a title given to the principal professors of religious science. 

[24] This is equivalent to saying that the language of the Basqueprovinces is French with an affinity to English. 

[25] When ladies are bastinadoed in more modest Persia, their hands arepassed through a hole in a tent wall, and fastened for the infliction to aFalakah or pole outside. 

[26] The hate dates from old times. Abd el Karim, uncle to the late AmirAbubakr, sent for sixty or seventy Arab mercenaries under Haydar Assal theAuliki, to save him against the Gallas. The matchlockmen failing inammunition, lost twenty of their number in battle and retired to the town, where the Gallas, after capturing Abd el Karim, and his brother Abd elRahman, seized the throne, and, aided by the citizens, attempted tomassacre the strangers. These, however, defended themselves gallantly, andwould have crowned the son of Abd el Rahman, had he not in fear declinedthe dignity; they then drew their pay, and marched with all the honors ofwar to Zayla. 

Shortly before our arrival, the dozen of petty Arab pedlars at Harar, treacherous intriguers, like all their dangerous race, had been plottingagainst the Amir. One morning when they least expected it, their chief wasthrown into a prison which proved his grave, and the rest were informedthat any stranger found in the city should lose his head. After wanderingsome months among the neighbouring villages, they were allowed to returnand live under surveillance. No one at Harar dared to speak of this event, and we were cautioned not to indulge our curiosity. 

[27] This agrees with the Hon. R. Curzon's belief in Central African"diggings. " The traveller once saw an individual descending the Nile witha store of nuggets, bracelets, and gold rings similar to those used asmoney by the ancient Egyptians. 

[28] M. Krapf relates a tale current in Abyssinia; namely, that there is aremnant of the slave trade between Guineh (the Guinea coast) and Shoa. Connexion between the east and west formerly existed: in the time of Johnthe Second, the Portuguese on the river Zaire in Congo learned theexistence of the Abyssinian church. Travellers in Western Africa assertthat Fakihs or priests, when performing the pilgrimage pass from theFellatah country through Abyssinia to the coast of the Red Sea. And it haslately been proved that a caravan line is open from the Zanzibar coast toBenguela. 

[29] All male collaterals of the royal family, however, are not imprisonedby law, as was formerly the case at Shoa. 

[30] This is a mere superstition; none but the most credulous can believethat a man ever lives after an Eastern dose. 

[31] The name and coin are Abyssinian. According to Bruce, 20 Mahallaks are worth 1 Grush. 12 Grush " " 1 Miskal. 4 Miskal " " 1 Wakiyah (ounce). 

At Harar twenty-two plantains (the only small change) = one Mahallak, twenty-two Mahallaks = one Ashrafi (now a nominal coin, ) and three Ashrafi= one dollar. 

Lieut. Cruttenden remarks, "The Ashrafi stamped at the Harar mint is acoin peculiar to the place. It is of silver and the twenty-second part ofa dollar. The only specimen I have been able to procure bore the date of910 of the Hagira, with the name of the Amir on one side, and, on itsreverse, 'La Ilaha ill 'Allah. '" This traveller adds in a note, "the valueof the Ashrafi changes with each successive ruler. In the reign of EmirAbd el Shukoor, some 200 years ago, it was of gold. " At present theAshrafi, as I have said above, is a fictitious medium used in accounts. 

[32] An old story is told of the Amir Abubakr, that during one of hisnocturnal excursions, he heard three of his subjects talking treason, andcoveting his food, his wife, and his throne. He sent for them nextmorning, filled the first with good things, and bastinadoed him for noteating more, flogged the second severely for being unable to describe thedifference between his own wife and the princess, and put the third todeath. 

[33] El Makrizi informs us that in his day Hadiyah supplied the East withblack Eunuchs, although the infamous trade was expressly forbidden by theEmperor of Abyssinia. 

[33] The Arusi Gallas are generally driven direct from Ugadayn toBerberah. 

[34] "If you want a brother (in arms), " says the Eastern proverb, "buy aNubian, if you would be rich, an Abyssinian, and if you require an ass, aSawahili (negro). " Formerly a small load of salt bought a boy in SouthernAbyssinia, many of them, however, died on their way to the coast. 

[35] The Firman lately issued by the Sultan and forwarded to the Pasha ofJeddah for the Kaimakan and the Kazi of Mecca, has lately caused a kind ofrevolution in Western Arabia. The Ulema and the inhabitants denounced therescript as opposed to the Koran, and forced the magistrate to takesanctuary. The Kaimakan came to his assistance with Turkish troops, thelatter, however, were soon pressed back into their fort. At this time, theSherif Abd el Muttalib arrived at Meccah, from Taif, and almostsimultaneously Reshid Pasha came from Constantinople with orders to seizehim, send him to the capital, and appoint the Sherif Nazir to act untilthe nomination of a successor, the state prisoner Mohammed bin Aun. 

The tumult redoubled. The people attributing the rescript to the Englishand French Consuls of Jeddah, insisted upon pulling down their flags. ThePasha took them under his protection, and on the 14th January, 1856, the"Queen" steamer was despatched from Bombay, with orders to assist thegovernment and to suppress the contest. 

[36] This weight, as usual in the East, varies at every port. At Aden theFarasilah is 27 lbs. , at Zayla 20 lbs. , and at Berberah 35 lbs. 

[37] See Chap. Iii. El Makrizi, describing the kingdom of Zayla, uses theHarari not the Arabic term; he remarks that it is unknown to Egypt andSyria, and compares its leaf to that of the orange. 

[38] In conversational Arabic "we" is used without affectation for "I. "

[39] The Shaykh himself gave me this information. As a rule it is mostimprudent for Europeans holding high official positions in these barbarousregions, to live as they do, unarmed and unattended. The appearance ofutter security may impose, where strong motives for assassination arewanting. At the same time the practice has occasioned many losses whichsingly, to use an Indian statesman's phrase, would have "dimmed avictory. "

[40] In the best coffee countries, Harar and Yemen, the berry is reservedfor exportation. The Southern Arabs use for economy and health--the beanbeing considered heating--the Kishr or follicle. This in Harar is awoman's drink. The men considering the berry too dry and heating for theirarid atmosphere, toast the leaf on a girdle, pound it and prepare aninfusion which they declare to be most wholesome, but which certainlysuggests weak senna. The boiled coffee-leaf has been tried and approved ofin England; we omit, however, to toast it. 

[41] In Harar a horse or a mule is never lost, whereas an ass strayingfrom home is rarely seen again. 

[42] This is the Abyssinian "Tej, " a word so strange to European organs, that some authors write it "Zatsh. " At Harar it is made of honey dissolvedin about fifteen parts of hot water, strained and fermented for seven dayswith the bark of a tree called Kudidah; when the operation is to behurried, the vessel is placed near the fire. Ignorant Africa can ferment, not distil, yet it must be owned she is skilful in her rude art. Everytraveller has praised the honey-wine of the Highlands, and some have notscrupled to prefer it to champagne. It exhilarates, excites and acts as anaphrodisiac; the consequence is, that at Harar all men, pagans and sages, priests and rulers, drink it. 

[43] The Caliph Umar is said to have smiled once and wept once. The smilewas caused by the recollection of his having eaten his paste-gods in thedays of ignorance. The tear was shed in remembrance of having buriedalive, as was customary amongst the Pagan Arabs, his infant daughter, who, whilst he placed her in the grave, with her little hands beat the dust offhis beard and garment. 

[44] The Eastern parent of Free-Masonry. 

[45] Two celebrated Arabic dictionaries. 

CHAP. IX. 

A RIDE TO BERBERAH. 

Long before dawn on Saturday, the 13th January, the mules were saddled, bridled, and charged with our scanty luggage. After a hasty breakfast weshook hands with old Sultan the Eunuch, mounted and pricked through thedesert streets. Suddenly my weakness and sickness left me--so potent adrug is joy!--and, as we passed the gates loudly salaming to the warders, who were crouching over the fire inside, a weight of care and anxiety fellfrom me like a cloak of lead. 

Yet, dear L. , I had time, on the top of my mule for musing upon howmelancholy a thing is success. Whilst failure inspirits a man, attainmentreads the sad prosy lesson that all our glories

 "Are shadows, not substantial things. "

Truly said the sayer, "disappointment is the salt of life"--a salutarybitter which strengthens the mind for fresh exertion, and gives a doublevalue to the prize. 

This shade of melancholy soon passed away. The morning was beautiful. Acloudless sky, then untarnished by sun, tinged with reflected blue themist-crowns of the distant peaks and the smoke wreaths hanging round thesleeping villages, and the air was a cordial after the rank atmosphere ofthe town. The dew hung in large diamonds from the coffee trees, the spur-fowl crew blithely in the bushes by the way-side:--briefly, never did theface of Nature appear to me so truly lovely. 

We hurried forwards, unwilling to lose time and fearing the sun of theErar valley. With arms cocked, a precaution against the possibility ofGalla spears in ambuscade, we crossed the river, entered the yawning chasmand ascended the steep path. My companions were in the highest spirits, nothing interfered with the general joy, but the villain Abtidon, wholoudly boasted in a road crowded with market people, that the mule whichhe was riding had been given to us by the Amir as a Jizyah or tribute. TheHammal, direfully wrath, threatened to shoot him upon the spot, and it wasnot without difficulty that I calmed the storm. 

Passing Gafra we ascertained from the Midgans that the Gerad Adan had sentfor my books and stored them in his own cottage. We made in a direct linefor Kondura. At one P. M. We safely threaded the Galla's pass, and about anhour afterwards we exclaimed "Alhamdulillah" at the sight of Sagharrah andthe distant Marar Prairie. Entering the village we discharged our fire-arms: the women received us with the Masharrad or joy-cry, and as I passedthe enclosure the Geradah Khayrah performed the "Fola" by throwing over mesome handfuls of toasted grain. [1] The men gave cordial _poignees demains_, some danced with joy to see us return alive; they had heard of ourbeing imprisoned, bastinadoed, slaughtered; they swore that the Gerad wasraising an army to rescue or revenge us--in fact, had we been theirkinsmen more excitement could not have been displayed. Lastly, in truehumility, crept forward the End of Time, who, as he kissed my hand, wasupon the point of tears: he had been half-starved, despite his dignity asSharmarkay's Mercury, and had spent his weary nights and days reciting thechapter Y. S. And fumbling the rosary for omens. The Gerad, he declared, would have given him a sheep and one of his daughters to wife, temporarily, but Sherwa had interfered, he had hindered the course of hissire's generosity: "Cursed be he, " exclaimed the End of Time, "who withdirty feet defiles the pure water of the stream!"

We entered the smoky cottage. The Gerad and his sons were at Wilensisettling the weighty matter of a caravan which had been plundered by theUsbayhan tribe--in their absence the good Khayrah and her daughters didthe duties of hospitality by cooking rice and a couple of fowls. Apleasant evening was spent in recounting our perils as travellers will do, and complimenting one another upon the power of our star. 

At eight the next morning we rode to Wilensi. As we approached it all thewayfarers and villagers inquired Hibernically if we were the party thathad been put to death by the Amir of Harar. Loud congratulations andshouts of joy awaited our arrival. The Kalendar was in a paroxysm ofdelight: both Shehrazade and Deenarzade were affected with giggling andwhat might be blushing. We reviewed our property and found that the One-eyed had been a faithful steward, so faithful indeed, that he had wellnigh starved the two women. Presently appeared the Gerad and his sonsbringing with them my books; the former was at once invested with a gaudyAbyssinian Tobe of many colours, in which he sallied forth from thecottage the admired of all admirers. The pretty wife Sudiyah and the goodKhayrah were made happy by sundry gifts of huge Birmingham ear-rings, brooches and bracelets, scissors, needles, and thread. The evening asusual ended in a feast. 

"We halted a week at Wilensi to feed, --in truth my companions had beenfaring lentenly at Harar, --and to lay in stock and strength for the longdesert march before us. A Somali was despatched to the city under ordersto load an ass with onions, tobacco, spices, wooden platters, and Karanji[2], which our penniless condition had prevented our purchasing. I spentthe time collecting a vocabulary of the Harari tongue under the auspicesof Mad Said and All the poet, a Somali educated at the Alma Mater. He wasa small black man, long-headed and long-backed, with remarkably prominenteyes, a bulging brow, nose pertly turned up, and lean jaws almostunconscious of beard. He knew the Arabic, Somali, Galla, and Hararilanguages, and his acuteness was such, that I found no difficulty in whatusually proves the hardest task, --extracting the grammatical forms. "Apoet, the son of a Poet, " to use his own phrase, he evinced a Horatianrespect for the beverage which bards love, and his discourse, whenever itstrayed from the line of grammar, savoured of over reverence for thegoddess whom Pagans associated with Bacchus and Ceres. He was also apatriot and a Tyrtaeus. No clan ever attacked his Girhis without smartingunder terrible sarcasms, and his sneers at the young warriors for want ofardour in resisting Gudabirsi encroachments, were quoted as models of the"withering. " Stimulated by the present of a Tobe, he composed a song inhonor of the pilgrim: I will offer a literal translation of the exordium, though sentient of the fact that modesty shrinks from such quotations. 

 "Formerly, my sire and self held ourselves songsters: Only to day, however, I really begin to sing. At the order of Abdullah, Allah sent, my tongue is loosed, The son of the Kuraysh by a thousand generations, He hath visited Audal, and Sahil and Adari [3]; A hundred of his ships float on the sea; His intellect, " &c. &c. &c. 

When not engaged with Ali the Poet I amused myself by consoling Mad Said, who was deeply afflicted, his son having received an ugly stab in theshoulder. Thinking, perhaps, that the Senior anticipated some evil resultsfrom the wound, I attempted to remove the impression. "Alas, 0 Hajj!"groaned the old man, "it is not that!--how can the boy be _my boy_, I whohave ever given instead of receiving stabs?" nor would he be comforted, onaccount of the youth's progeniture. At other times we summoned the headsof the clans and proceeded to write down their genealogies. This alwaysled to a scene beginning with piano, but rapidly rising to the strepitoso. Each tribe and clan wished to rank first, none would be even second, --whatwas to be done? When excitement was at its height, the paper and pencilwere torn out of my hand, stubby beards were pitilessly pulled, anddaggers half started from their sheaths. These quarrels were, however, easily composed, and always passed off in storms of abuse, laughter, andderision. 

With the end of the week's repose came Shaykh Jami, the Berteri, equippedas a traveller with sword, praying-skin, and water-bottle. This bustlinglittle divine, whose hobby it was to make every man's business his own, was accompanied by his brother, in nowise so prayerful a person, and byfour burly, black-looking Widads, of whose birth, learning, piety, andvirtues he spoke in terms eloquent. I gave them a supper of rice, ghee, and dates in my hut, and with much difficulty excused myself on plea ofill health from a Samrah or night's entertainment--the chaunting someserious book from evening even to the small hours. The Shaykh informed methat his peaceful errand on that occasion was to determine a claim ofblood-money amongst the neighbouring Bedouins. The case was rich in Somalimanners. One man gave medicine to another who happened to die about amonth afterwards: the father of the deceased at once charged the medicinerwith poisoning, and demanded the customary fine. Mad Said grumbled certaindisrespectful expressions about the propriety of divines confiningthemselves to prayers and the Koran, whilst the Gerad Adan, afterlistening to the Shaykh's violent denunciation of the Somali doctrine, "Fire, but not shame!" [4] conducted his head-scratcher, and with slysarcasm declared that he had been Islamized afresh that day. 

On Sunday, the 21st of January, our messenger returned from Harar, bringing with him supplies for the road: my vocabulary was finished, andas nothing delayed us at Wilensi, I determined to set out the next day. When the rumour went abroad every inhabitant of the village flocked to ourhut, with the view of seeing what he could beg or borrow: we were soonobliged to close it, with peremptory orders that none be admitted but theShaykh Jami. The divine appeared in the afternoon accompanied by all theincurables of the country side: after hearing the tale of the blood-money, I determined that talismans were the best and safest of medicines in thosemountains. The Shaykh at first doubted their efficacy. But when my diplomaas a master Sufi was exhibited, a new light broke upon him and hisattendant Widads. "Verily he hath declared himself this day!" whisperedeach to his neighbour, still sorely mystified. Shaykh Jami carefullyinspected the document, raised it reverently to his forehead, and mutteredsome prayers: he then in humble phrase begged a copy, and required from me"Ijazah" or permission to act as master. The former request was grantedwithout hesitation, about the latter I preferred to temporize: he thenowned himself my pupil, and received, as a well-merited acknowledgment ofhis services, a pencil and a silk turban. 

The morning fixed for our departure came; no one, however, seemed ready tomove. The Hammal, who but the night before had been full of ardour andactivity, now hung back; we had no coffee, no water-bags, and Deenarzadehad gone to buy gourds in some distant village. This was truly African:twenty-six days had not sufficed to do the work of a single watch! Noservants had been procured for us by the Gerad, although he had promised ahundred whenever required. Long Guled had imprudently lent his dagger tothe smooth-tongued Yusuf Dera, who hearing of the departure, naturallyabsconded. And, at the last moment, one Abdy Aman, who had engaged himselfat Harar as guide to Berberah for the sum of ten dollars, asked a score. 

A display of energy was clearly necessary. I sent the Gerad withdirections to bring the camels at once, and ordered the Hammal to pulldown the huts. Abdy Aman was told to go to Harar--or the other place--LongGuled was promised another dagger at Berberah; a message was leftdirecting Deenarzade to follow, and the word was given to load. 

By dint of shouting and rough language, the caravan was ready at 9 A. M. The Gerad Adan and his ragged tail leading, we skirted the eastern side ofWilensi, and our heavily laden camels descended with pain the rough andstony slope of the wide Kloof dividing it from the Marar Prairie. At 1P. M. The chief summoned us to halt: we pushed on, however, withoutregarding him. Presently, Long Guled and the End of Time were missing;contrary to express orders they had returned to seek the dagger. To ensurediscipline, on this occasion I must have blown out the long youth'sbrains, which were, he declared, addled by the loss of his weapon: theremedy appeared worse than the disease. 

Attended only by the Hammal, I entered with pleasure the Marar Prairie. Invain the Gerad entreated us not to venture upon a place swarming withlions; vainly he promised to kill sheep and oxen for a feast;--we tookabrupt leave of him, and drove away the camels. 

Journeying slowly over the skirt of the plain, when rejoined by thetruants, we met a party of travellers, who, as usual, stopped to inquirethe news. Their chief, mounted upon an old mule, proved to be Madar Farih, a Somali well known at Aden. He consented to accompany us as far as thehalting place, expressed astonishment at our escaping Harar, and gave usintelligence which my companions judged grave. The Gerad Hirsi of theBerteri, amongst whom Madar had been living, was incensed with us forleaving the direct road. Report informed him, moreover, that we had given600 dollars and various valuables to the Gerad Adan, --Why then had he beenneglected? Madar sensibly advised us to push forward that night, and to'ware the bush, whence Midgans might use their poisoned arrows. 

We alighted at the village formerly beneath Gurays, now shifted to a shortdistance from those hills. Presently appeared Deenarzade, hung round withgourds and swelling with hurt feelings: she was accompanied by Dahabo, sister of the valiant Beuh, who, having for ever parted from her gracelesshusband, the Gerad, was returning under our escort to the Gurgi of herfamily. Then came Yusuf Dera with a smiling countenance and smoothmanners, bringing the stolen dagger and many excuses for the mistake; hewas accompanied by a knot of kinsmen deputed by the Gerad as usual for nogood purpose. That worthy had been informed that his Berteri rival offereda hundred cows for our persons, dead or alive: he pathetically asked myattendants "Do you love your pilgrim?" and suggested that if they did so, they might as well send him a little more cloth, upon the receipt of whichhe would escort us with fifty horsemen. 

My Somal lent a willing ear to a speech which smelt of falsehood a mileoff: they sat down to debate; the subject was important, and for threemortal hours did that palaver endure. I proposed proceeding at once. Theydeclared that the camels could not walk, and that the cold of the prairiewas death to man. Pointing to a caravan of grain-carriers that awaited ourescort, I then spoke of starting next morning. Still they hesitated. Atlength darkness came on, and knowing it to be a mere waste of time todebate over night about dangers to be faced next day, I ate my dates anddrank my milk, and lay down to enjoy tranquil sleep in the deep silence ofthe desert. 

The morning of the 23rd of January found my companions as usual in a stateof faint-heartedness. The Hammal was deputed to obtain permission forfetching the Gerad and all the Gerad's men. This was positively refused. Icould not, however, object to sending sundry Tobes to the cunning idiot, in order to back up a verbal request for the escort. Thereupon Yusuf Dera, Madar Farih, and the other worthies took leave, promising to despatch thetroop before noon: I saw them depart with pleasure, feeling that we hadbade adieu to the Girhis. The greatest danger we had run was from theGerad Adan, a fact of which I was not aware till some time after my returnto Berberah: he had always been plotting an _avanie_ which, if attempted, would have cost him dear, but at the same time would certainly have provedfatal to us. 

Noon arrived, but no cavalry. My companions had promised that ifdisappointed they would start before nightfall and march till morning. Butwhen the camels were sent for, one, as usual if delay was judgedadvisable, had strayed: they went in search of him, so as to give time forpreparation to the caravan. I then had a sharp explanation with my men, and told them in conclusion that it was my determination to cross thePrairie alone, if necessary, on the morrow. 

That night heavy clouds rolled down from the Gurays Hills, and veiled thesky with a deeper gloom. Presently came a thin streak of blue lightningand a roar of thunder, which dispersed like flies the mob of gazers fromaround my Gurgi; then rain streamed through our hut as though we had beendwelling under a system of cullenders. Deenarzade declared herself too illto move; Shehrazade swore that she would not work: briefly, that night wasby no means pleasantly spent. 

At dawn, on the 24th, we started across the Marar Prairie with a caravanof about twenty men and thirty women, driving camels, carrying grain, asses, and a few sheep. The long straggling line gave a "wide berth" tothe doughty Hirsi and his Berteris, whose camp-fires were clearly visiblein the morning grey. The air was raw; piles of purple cloud settled uponthe hills, whence cold and damp gusts swept the plain; sometimes we had ashower, at others a Scotch mist, which did not fail to penetrate our thinraiment. My people trembled, and their teeth chattered as though they werewalking upon ice. In our slow course we passed herds of quagga andgazelles, but the animals were wild, and both men and mules were unequalto the task of stalking them. About midday we closed up, for our pathwound through the valley wooded with Acacia, --fittest place for anambuscade of archers. We dined in the saddle on huge lumps of sun-driedbeef, and bits of gum gathered from the trees. 

Having at length crossed the prairie without accident, the caravan peopleshook our hands, congratulated one another, and declared that they owedtheir lives to us. About an hour after sunset we arrived at Abtidon'shome, a large kraal at the foot of the Konti cone: fear of lions drove mypeople into the enclosure, where we passed a night of scratching. I wasnow haunted by the dread of a certain complaint for which sulphur is saidto be a specific. This is the pest of the inner parts of Somali-land; thepeople declare it to arise from flies and fleas: the European would deriveit from the deficiency, or rather the impossibility, of ablutions. 

"Allah help the Goer, but the Return is Rolling:" this adage was ever uponthe End of Time's tongue, yet my fate was apparently an exception to thegeneral rule. On the 25th January, we were delayed by the weakness of thecamels, which had been half starved in the Girhi mountains. And as we wereabout to enter the lands of the Habr Awal [5], then at blood feud with mymen, all Habr Gerhajis, probably a week would elapse before we couldprovide ourselves with a fit and proper protector. Already I had beendelayed ten days after the appointed time, my comrades at Berberah wouldbe apprehensive of accidents, and although starting from Wilensi we hadresolved to reach the coast within the fortnight, a month's march was inclear prospect. 

Whilst thus chewing the cud of bitter thought where thought was of scantavail, suddenly appeared the valiant Beuh, sent to visit us by Dahabo hisgay sister. He informed us that a guide was in the neighbourhood, and thenews gave me an idea. I proposed that he should escort the women, camels, and baggage under command of the Kalendar to Zayla, whilst we, mountingour mules and carrying only our arms and provisions for four days, mightpush through the lands of the Habr Awal. After some demur all consented. 

It was not without apprehension that I pocketed all my remainingprovisions, five biscuits, a few limes, and sundry lumps of sugar. Anydelay or accident to our mules would starve us; in the first place, wewere about to traverse a desert, and secondly where Habr Awal were, theywould not sell meat or milk to Habr Gerhajis. My attendants providedthemselves with a small provision of sun-dried beef, grain, andsweetmeats: only one water-bottle, however, was found amongst the wholeparty. We arose at dawn after a wet night on the 26th January, but we didnot start till 7 A. M. , the reason being that all the party, the Kalendar, Shehrazade and Deenarzade, claimed and would have his and her several anddistinct palaver. 

Having taken leave of our friends and property [6], we spurred our mules, and guided by Beuh, rode through cloud and mist towards Koralay theSaddle-back hill. After an hour's trot over rugged ground falling into theHarawwah valley, we came to a Gudabirsi village, where my companionshalted to inquire the news, also to distend their stomachs with milk. Thence we advanced slowly, as the broken path required, through thicketsof wild henna to the kraal occupied by Beuh's family. At a distance wewere descried by an old acquaintance, Fahi, who straightways began todance like a little Polyphemus, his shock-wig waving in the air: plentifulpotations of milk again delayed my companions, who were now laying in afour days' stock. 

Remounting, we resumed our journey over a mass of rock and thicket, watered our mules at holes in a Fiumara, and made our way to a villagebelonging to the Ugaz or chief of the Gudabirsi tribe. He was a middle-aged man of ordinary presence, and he did not neglect to hold out his handfor a gift which we could not but refuse. Halting for about an hour, wepersuaded a guide, by the offer of five dollars and a pair of cloths, toaccompany us. "Dubayr"--the Donkey--who belonged to the Bahgobo clan ofthe Habr Awal, was a "long Lankin, " unable, like all these Bedouins, toendure fatigue. He could not ride, the saddle cut him, and he found hismule restive; lately married, he was incapacitated for walking, and hesuffered sadly from thirst. The Donkey little knew, when he promised toshow Berberah on the third day, what he had bound himself to perform:after the second march he was induced, only by the promise of a largepresent, and one continual talk of food, to proceed, and often he threwhis lengthy form upon the ground, groaning that his supreme hour was athand. In the land which we were to traverse every man's spear would beagainst us. By way of precaution, we ordered our protector to choosedesert roads and carefully to avoid all kraals. At first, notunderstanding our reasons, and ever hankering after milk, he could notpass a thorn fence without eyeing it wistfully. On the next day, however, he became more tractable, and before reaching Berberah he showed himself, in consequence of some old blood feud, more anxious even than ourselves toavoid villages. 

Remounting, under the guidance of the Donkey, we resumed our east-wardcourse. He was communicative even for a Somali, and began by pointing out, on the right of the road, the ruins of a stone-building, called, ascustomary in these countries, a fort. Beyond it we came to a kraal, whenceall the inhabitants issued with shouts and cries for tobacco. Threeo'clock P. M. Brought us to a broad Fiumara choked with the thickest andmost tangled vegetation: we were shown some curious old Galla wells, deepholes about twenty feet in diameter, excavated in the rock; some were dry, others overgrown with huge creepers, and one only supplied us withtolerable water. The Gudabirsi tribe received them from the Girhi in lieuof blood-money: beyond this watercourse, the ground belongs to the RerYunis Jibril, a powerful clan of the Habr Awal, and the hills are thicklystudded with thorn-fence and kraal. 

Without returning the salutations of the Bedouins, who loudly summoned usto stop and give them the news, we trotted forwards in search of adeserted sheep-fold. At sunset we passed, upon an eminence on our left, the ruins of an ancient settlement, called after its patron Saint, AoBarhe: and both sides of the mountain road were flanked by tracts ofprairie-land, beautifully purpling in the evening air. After a ride ofthirty-five miles, we arrived at a large fold, where, by removing theinner thorn-fences, we found fresh grass for our starving beasts. Thenight was raw and windy, and thick mists deepened into a drizzle, whichdid not quench our thirst, but easily drenched the saddle cloths, our onlybedding. In one sense, however, the foul weather was propitious to us. Ourtrack might easily have been followed by some enterprising son of YunisJibril; these tracts of thorny bush are favourite places for cattlelifting; moreover the fire was kept blazing all night, yet our mules werenot stolen. 

We shook off our slumbers before dawn on the 27th. I remarked near ourresting-place, one of those detached heaps of rock, common enough in theSomali country: at one extremity a huge block projects upwards, andsuggests the idea of a gigantic canine tooth. The Donkey declared that thesummit still bears traces of building, and related the legend connectedwith Moga Medir. [7] There, in times of old, dwelt a Galla maiden whoseeye could distinguish a plundering party at the distance of five days'march. The enemies of her tribe, after sustaining heavy losses, hit uponthe expedient of an attack, not _en chemise_, but with their heads muffledin bundles of hay. When Moga, the maiden, informed her sire and clan thata prairie was on its way towards the hill, they deemed her mad; themanoeuvre succeeded, and the unhappy seer lost her life. The legendinterested me by its wide diffusion. The history of Zarka, the blue-eyedwitch of the Jadis tribe, who seized Yemamah by her gramarye, and ourScotch tale of Birnam wood's march, are Asiatic and European facsimiles ofAfrican "Moga's Tooth. "

At 7 A. M. We started through the mist, and trotted eastwards in search ofa well. The guide had deceived us: the day before he had promised water atevery half mile; he afterwards owned with groans that we should not drinkbefore nightfall. These people seem to lie involuntarily: the habit ofuntruth with them becomes a second nature. They deceive without object fordeceit, and the only way of obtaining from them correct information is toinquire, receive the answer, and determine it to be diametrically opposedto fact. 

I will not trouble you, dear L. , with descriptions of the uniform anduninteresting scenery through which we rode, --horrid hills upon whichwithered aloes brandished their spears, plains apparently rained upon by ashower of stones, and rolling ground abounding only with thorns like the"wait-a-bits" of Kafir land, created to tear man's skin or clothes. Ourtoil was rendered doubly toilsome by the Eastern travellers' dread--thedemon of Thirst rode like Care behind us. For twenty-four hours we did nottaste water, the sun parched our brains, the mirage mocked us at everyturn, and the effect was a species of monomania. As I jogged along witheyes closed against the fiery air, no image unconnected with the wantsuggested itself. Water ever lay before me--water lying deep in the shadywell--water in streams bubbling icy from the rock--water in pellucid lakesinviting me to plunge and revel in their treasures. Now an Indian cloudwas showering upon me fluid more precious than molten pearl, then aninvisible hand offered a bowl for which the mortal part would gladly havebartered years of life. Then--drear contrast!--I opened my eyes to a heat-reeking plain, and a sky of that eternal metallic blue so lovely topainter and poet, so blank and deathlike to us, whose [Greek _kalon_] wastempest, rain-storm, and the huge purple nimbus. I tried to talk--it wasin vain, to sing in vain, vainly to think; every idea was bound up in onesubject, water. [8]

As the sun sank into the East we descended the wide Gogaysa valley. Withunspeakable delight we saw in the distance a patch of lively green: ouranimals scented the blessing from afar, they raised their drooping ears, and started with us at a canter, till, turning a corner, we suddenlysighted sundry little wells. To spring from the saddle, to race with ourmules, who now feared not the crumbling sides of the pits, to throwourselves into the muddy pools, to drink a long slow draught, and to dashthe water over our burning faces, took less time to do than to recount. Acalmer inspection showed a necessity for caution;--the surface was alivewith tadpoles and insects: prudence, however, had little power at thattime, we drank, and drank, and then drank again. As our mules had fallenwith avidity upon the grass, I proposed to pass a few hours near the well. My companions, however, pleading the old fear of lions, led the way to adeserted kraal upon a neighbouring hill. We had marched about thirty mileseastward, and had entered a safe country belonging to the Bahgoba, ourguide's clan. 

At sunrise on the 28th of January, the Donkey, whose limbs refused towork, was lifted into the saddle, declaring that the white man must havebeen sent from heaven, as a special curse upon the children of Ishak. Westarted, after filling the water-bottle, down the Gogaysa valley. Ourmules were becoming foot-sore, and the saddles had already galled theirbacks; we were therefore compelled to the additional mortification oftravelling at snail's pace over the dreary hills, and through theuninteresting bush. 

About noon we entered Wady Danan, or "The Sour, " a deep chasm in therocks; the centre is a winding sandy watercourse, here and there grassywith tall rushes, and affording at every half mile a plentiful supply ofsweet water. The walls of the ravine are steep and rugged, and the thornyjungle clustering at the sides gives a wild appearance to the scene. Traces of animals, quagga and gazelle, every where abounded: not beinghowever, in "Dianic humour, " and unwilling to apprise Bedouins of ourvicinity, I did not fire a shot. As we advanced large trees freshly barkedand more tender plants torn up by the roots, showed the late passage of aherd of elephants: my mule, though the bravest of our beasts, was in astate of terror all the way. The little grey honey-bird [9] tempted us towander with all his art: now he sat upon the nearest tree chirping hisinvitation to a feast, then he preceded us with short jerking flights topoint out the path. My people, however, despite the fondness for honeyinherent in the Somali palate [10], would not follow him, deciding thaton, this occasion his motives for inviting us were not of the purest. 

Emerging from the valley, we urged on our animals over comparatively levelground, in the fallacious hope of seeing the sea that night. The treesbecame rarer as we advanced and the surface metallic. In spots the pathled over ironstone that resembled slag. In other places the soil wasochre-coloured [11]: the cattle lick it, probably on account of thealuminous matter with which it is mixed. Everywhere the surface was burntup by the sun, and withered from want of rain. Towards evening we entereda broad slope called by the Somal Dihh Murodi, or Murodilay, theElephants' Valley. Crossing its breadth from west to east, we traversedtwo Fiumaras, the nearer "Hamar, " the further "Las Dorhhay, " or theTamarisk waterholes. They were similar in appearance, the usual Wady about100 yards wide, pearly sand lined with borders of leek green, pitted withdry wells around which lay heaps of withered thorns and a herd of gazellestripping gracefully over the quartz carpet. 

After spanning the valley we began to ascend the lower slopes of a highrange, whose folds formed like a curtain the bold background of the view. This is the landward face of the Ghauts, over which we were to pass beforesighting the sea. Masses of cold grey cloud rolled from the table-formedsummit, we were presently shrouded in mist, and as we advanced, rain beganto fall. The light of day vanishing, we again descended into a Fiumarawith a tortuous and rocky bed, the main drain of the landward mountainside. My companions, now half-starved, --they had lived through three dayson a handful of dates and sweetmeats, --devoured with avidity the wildJujube berries that strewed the stones. The guide had preceded us: when wecame up with him, he was found seated upon a grassy bank on the edge ofthe rugged torrent bed. We sprang in pleased astonishment from the saddle, dire had been the anticipations that our mules, --one of them alreadyrequired driving with the spear, --would, after another night ofstarvation, leave us to carry their loads upon our own hacks. The cause ofthe phenomenon soon revealed itself. In the rock was a hole about two feetwide, whence a crystal sheet welled over the Fiumara bank, forming aparadise for frog and tadpole. This "Ga'angal" is considered by the Somala "fairies' well:" all, however, that the Donkey could inform me was, thatwhen the Nomads settle in the valley, the water sinks deep below theearth--a knot which methinks might be unravelled without the interpositionof a god. The same authority declared it to be the work of the "oldancient" Arabs. 

The mules fell hungrily upon the succulent grass, and we, with the mostfrugal of suppers, prepared to pass the rainy night. Presently, however, the doves and Katas [12], the only birds here requiring water, approachedin flights, and fearing to drink, fluttered around us with shrill cries. They suggested to my companions the possibility of being visited in sleepby more formidable beasts, and even man: after a short halt, an advancewas proposed; and this was an offer which, on principle, I never refused. We remounted our mules, now refreshed and in good spirits, and began toascend the stony face of the Eastern hill through a thick mist, deepeningthe darkness. As we reached the bleak summit, a heavy shower gave mycompanions a pretext to stop: they readily found a deserted thorn fence, in which we passed a wet night. That day we had travelled at least thirty-five miles without seeing the face of man: the country was parched to acinder for want of water, and all the Nomads had migrated to the plains. 

The morning of the 29th January was unusually fine: the last night's rainhung in masses of mist about the hill-sides, and the rapid evaporationclothed the clear background with deep blue. We began the day by ascendinga steep goat-track: it led to a sandy Fiumara, overgrown with Jujubes andother thorns, abounding in water, and showing in the rocky sides, cavernsfit for a race of Troglodytes. Pursuing the path over a stony valley lyingbetween parallel ranges of hill, we halted at about 10 A. M. In a largepatch of grass-land, the produce of the rain, which for some days past hadbeen fertilising the hill-tops. Whilst our beasts grazed greedily, we satunder a bush, and saw far beneath us the low country which separates theGhauts from the sea. Through an avenue in the rolling nimbus, we couldtrace the long courses of Fiumaras, and below, where mist did not obstructthe sight, the tawny plains, cut with watercourses glistening white, shonein their eternal summer. 

Shortly after 10 A. M. , we resumed our march, and began the descent of theGhauts by a ravine to which the guide gave the name of 'Kadar. ' No sandywatercourse, the 'Pass' of this barbarous land, here facilitates thetravellers' advance: the rapid slope of the hill presents a succession ofblocks and boulders piled one upon the other in rugged steps, apparentlyimpossible to a laden camel. This ravine, the Splugen of Somaliland, ledus, after an hour's ride, to the Wady Duntu, a gigantic mountain-cleftformed by the violent action of torrents. The chasm winds abruptly betweenlofty walls of syenite and pink granite, glittering with flaky mica, andstreaked with dykes and veins of snowy quartz: the strata of thesandstones that here and there projected into the bed were wonderfullytwisted around a central nucleus, as green boughs might be bent about atree. Above, the hill-tops towered in the air, here denuded of vegetablesoil by the heavy monsoon, there clothed from base to brow with gum trees, whose verdure was delicious to behold. The channel was now sandy, thenflagged with limestone in slippery sheets, or horrid with rough boulders:at times the path was clear and easy; at others, a precipice of twenty orthirty feet, which must be a little cataract after rain, forced us tofight our way through the obstinate thorns that defended some spur ofragged hill. As the noontide heat, concentrated in this funnel, began toaffect man and beast, we found a granite block, under whose shady browclear water, oozing from the sand, formed a natural bath, and sat therefor a while to enjoy the spectacle and the atmosphere, perfumed, as inpart of Persia and Northern Arabia, by the aromatic shrubs of the desert. 

After a short half-hour, we remounted and pursued our way down the Duntuchasm. As we advanced, the hills shrank in size, the bed became morelevel, and the walls of rock, gradually widening out, sank into the plain. Brisk and elastic above, the air, here soft, damp, and tepid, and the sunburning with a more malignant heat, convinced us that we stood once morebelow the Ghauts. For two hours we urged our mules in a south-eastdirection down the broad and winding Fiumara, taking care to inspect everywell, but finding them all full of dry sand. Then turning eastwards, wecrossed a plain called by the Donkey "Battaladayti Taranay"--the Flats ofTaranay--an exact representation of the maritime regions about Zayla. Herds of camels and flocks of milky sheep browsing amongst thorny Acaciaand the tufted Kulan, suggested pleasing visions to starving travellers, and for the first time after three days of hard riding, we saw the face ofman. The shepherds, Mikahil of the Habr Awal tribe, all fled as weapproached: at last one was bold enough to stand and deliver the news. Mycompanions were refreshed by good reports: there had been few murders, andthe sea-board was tolerably clear of our doughty enemies, the Ayyal Ahmed. We pricked over the undulating growth of parched grass, shaping ourcourse for Jebel Almis, to sailors the chief landmark of this coast, andfor a certain thin blue stripe on the far horizon, upon which we gazedwith gladdened eyes. 

Our road lay between low brown hills of lime and sandstone, the Sub-Ghautsforming a scattered line between the maritime mountains and the sea. Presently the path was choked by dense scrub of the Arman Acacia: itsyellow blossoms scented the air, but hardly made amends for the injuriesof a thorn nearly two inches long, and tipped with a wooden point sharp asa needle. Emerging, towards evening, from this bush, we saw large herds ofcamels, and called their guardians to come and meet us. For all reply theyran like ostriches to the nearest rocks, tittering the cry of alarm, andwhen we drew near each man implored us to harry his neighbour's cattle. Throughout our wanderings in Somaliland this had never occurred: itimpressed me strongly with the disturbed state of the regions inhabited bythe Habr Awal. After some time we persuaded a Bedouin who, with franticgestures, was screaming and flogging his camels, to listen: reassured byour oaths, he declared himself to be a Bahgoba, and promised to show us avillage of the Ayyal Gedid. The Hammal, who had married a daughter of thisclan, and had constituted his father-in-law my protector at Berberah, madesure of a hospitable reception: "To-night we shall sleep under cover anddrink milk, " quoth one hungry man to another, who straightways rejoined, "And we shall eat mutton!"

After dark we arrived at a kraal, we unsaddled our mules and sat down nearit, indulging in Epicurean anticipations. Opposite us, by the door of ahut, was a group of men who observed our arrival, but did not advance orsalute us. Impatient, I fired a pistol, when a gruff voice asked why wedisturbed the camels that were being milked. "We have fallen upon theAyyal Shirdon"--our bitterest enemies--whispered the End of Time. The samevoice then demanded in angrier accents, "Of what tribe be ye?" We boldlyanswered, "Of the Habr Gerhajis. " Thereupon ensued a war of words. TheAyyal Shirdon inquired what we wanted, where we had been, and how wedared, seeing that peace had not been concluded between the tribes, toenter their lands. We replied civilly as our disappointment would permit, but apparently gained little by soft words. The inhospitable Bedouinsdeclared our arrival to be in the seventeenth house of Geomancy--an adventprobable as the Greek Kalends--and rudely insisted upon knowing what hadtaken us to Harar. At last, a warrior, armed with two spears, came to meetus, and bending down recognized the End of Time: after a few shortsentences he turned on his heel and retired. I then directed Long Guled toapproach the group, and say that a traveller was at their doors ready andwilling to give tobacco in exchange for a draught of milk. They refusedpoint-blank, and spoke of fighting: we at once made ready with ourweapons, and showing the plain, bade them come on and receive a "bellyfull. " During the lull which followed this obliging proposal we saddledour mules and rode off, in the grimmest of humours, loudly cursing thecraven churls who knew not the value of a guest. 

We visited successively three villages of the Ayyal Gedid: the Hammalfailed to obtain even a drop of water from his connexions, and was tauntedaccordingly. He explained their inhospitality by the fact that all thewarriors being at Berberah, the villages contained nothing but women, children, servants, and flocks. The Donkey when strictly questioneddeclared that no well nearer than Bulhar was to be found: as men and muleswere faint with thirst, I determined to push forward to water that night. Many times the animals were stopped, a mute hint that they could go nofurther: I spurred onwards, and the rest, as on such occasions they hadnow learned to do, followed without a word. Our path lay across a plaincalled Banka Hadla, intersected in many places by deep watercourses, andthinly strewed with Kulan clumps. The moon arose, but cast a cloud-veiledand uncertain light: our path, moreover, was not clear, as the guide, wornout by fatigue, tottered on far in the rear. 

About midnight we heard--delightful sound!--the murmur of the distant sea. Revived by the music, we pushed on more cheerily. At last the Donkeypreceded us, and about 3 A. M. We found, in a Fiumara, some holes whichsupplied us with bitter water, truly delicious after fifteen hours ofthirst. Repeated draughts of the element, which the late rains hadrendered potable, relieved our pain, and hard by we found a place wherecoarse stubbly grass saved our mules from starvation. Then rain coming on, we coiled ourselves under the saddle cloths, and, reckless alike of AyyalAhmed and Ayyal Shirdon, slept like the dead. 

At dawn on the 30th January, I arose and inspected the site of Bulhar. Itwas then deserted, a huge heap of bleached bones being the only objectsuggestive of a settlement. This, at different times, has been a thrivingplace, owing to its roadstead, and the feuds of Berberah: it was generallya village of Gurgis, with some stone-houses built by Arabs. The coast, however, is open and havenless, and the Shimal wind, feared even at theGreat Port, here rages with resistless violence. Yet the place reviveswhen plundering parties render the plain unsafe: the timid merchants hereembark their goods and persons, whilst their camels are marched round thebay. 

Mounting at 6 A. M. We started slowly along the sea coast, and frequentlyhalted on the bushy Fiumara-cut plain. About noon we bathed in the sea, and sat on the sands for a while, my people praying for permission to passthe kraals of their enemies, the Ayyal Ahmed, by night. This, their lastrequest, was graciously granted: to say sooth, rapid travelling was nowimpossible; the spear failed to urge on one mule, and the Hammal wasobliged to flog before him another wretched animal. We then traversed analluvial plain, lately flooded, where slippery mud doubled the fatigue ofour cattle; and, at 3 P. M. , again halted on a patch of grass below therocky spur of Dabasenis, a hill half way between Bulhar and Berberah. Onthe summit I was shown an object that makes travellers shudder, a thorn-tree, under which the Habr Gerhajis [13] and their friends of the EesaMusa sit, vulture-like, on the look-out for plunder and murder. Advancinganother mile, we came to some wells, where we were obliged to rest ouranimals. Having there finished our last mouthful of food, we remounted, and following the plain eastward, prepared for a long night-march. 

As the light of day waned we passed on the right hand a table-formed hill, apparently a detached fragment of the sub-Ghauts or coast range. This spotis celebrated in local legends as "Auliya Kumbo, " the Mount of Saints, where the forty-four Arab Santons sat in solemn conclave before dispersingover the Somali country to preach El Islam. It lies about six hours ofhard walking from Berberah. 

At midnight we skirted Bulho Faranji, the Franks' Watering-place [14], astrip of ground thickly covered with trees. Abounding in grass and water, it has been the site of a village: when we passed it, however, all wasdesert. By the moon's light we descried, as we silently skirted the sea, the kraals and folds of our foe the Ayyal Ahmed, and at times we coulddistinguish the lowing of their cattle: my companions chuckled hugely atthe success of their manoeuvre, and perhaps not without reason. AtBerberah we were afterwards informed that a shepherd in the bush hadwitnessed and reported our having passed, when the Ayyal Ahmed cursed thestar that had enabled us to slip unhurt through their hands. 

Our mules could scarcely walk: after every bow-shot they rolled upon theground and were raised only by the whip. A last halt was called whenarrived within four miles of Berberah: the End of Time and Long Guled, completely worn out, fell fast asleep upon the stones. Of all the partythe Hammal alone retained strength and spirits: the sturdy fellow talked, sang, and shouted, and, whilst the others could scarcely sit their mules, he danced his war-dance and brandished his spear. I was delighted with his"pluck. "

Now a long dark line appears upon the sandy horizon--it grows moredistinct in the shades of night--the silhouettes of shipping appearagainst sea and sky. A cry of joy bursts from every mouth: cheer, boys, cheer, our toils here touch their end!

The End of Time first listened to the small still voice of Caution. Hewhispered anxiously to make no noise lest enemies might arise, that myother attendants had protectors at Berberah, but that he, the hated andfeared, as the _locum tenens_ of Sharmarkay, --the great _bete noire_, --depended wholly upon my defence. The Donkey led us slowly and cautiouslyround the southern quarter of the sleeping town, through bone heaps andjackals tearing their unsavoury prey: at last he marched straight into thequarter appropriated to the Ayyal Gedid our protectors. Anxiously Iinquired if my comrades had left Berberah, and heard with delight thatthey awaited me there. It was then 2 A. M. And we had marched at leastforty miles. The Somal, when in fear of forays, drive laden camels overthis distance in about ten hours. 

I dismounted at the huts where my comrades were living. A glad welcome, adish of rice, and a glass of strong waters--pardon dear L. , these details--made amends for past privations and fatigue. The servants and thewretched mules were duly provided for, and I fell asleep, conscious ofhaving performed a feat which, like a certain ride to York, will live inlocal annals for many and many a year. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] It is an Arab as well as a Somali ceremony to throw a little Kaliyahor Salul (toasted grain) over the honored traveller when he enters hut ortent. 

[2] Bread made of holcus grain dried and broken into bits; it is throwninto broth or hot water, and thus readily supplies the traveller with awholesome _panade_. 

[3] The Somal invariably call Berberah the "Sahil, " (meaning in Arabic thesea-shore, ) as Zayla with them is "Audal, " and Harar "Adari. "

[4] "Al Nar wa la al Ar, " an Arabic maxim, somewhat more forcible than our"death rather than dishonor. "

[5] This is the second great division of the Somal people, the father ofthe tribe being Awal, the cadet of Ishak el Hazrami. 

The Habr Awal occupy the coast from Zayla and Siyaro to the landsbordering upon the Berteri tribe. They own the rule of a Gerad, whoexercises merely a nominal authority. The late chief's name was "Bon, " hedied about four years ago, but his children have not yet received theturban. The royal race is the Ayyal Abdillah, a powerful clan extendingfrom the Dabasanis Hills to near Jigjiga, skirting the Marar Prairie. 

The Habr Awal are divided into a multitude of clans: of these I shallspecify only the principal, the subject of the maritime Somal beingalready familiar to our countrymen. The Esa Musa inhabit part of themountains south of Berberah. The Mikahil tenant the lowlands on the coastfrom Berberah to Siyaro. Two large clans, the Ayyal Yunis and the AyyalAhmed, have established themselves in Berberah and at Bulhar. Besidesthese are the Ayyal Abdillah Saad, the Ayyal Geraato, who live amongst theAyyal Yunis, --the Bahgobo and the Ayyal Hamed. 

[6] My property arrived safe at Aden after about two months. The mule leftunder the Kalendar's charge never appeared, and the camels are, I believe, still grazing among the Eesa. The fair Shehrazade, having amassed a littlefortune, lost no time in changing her condition, an example followed indue time by Deenarzade. And the Kalendar, after a visit to Aden, returnedto electrify his Zayla friends with long and terrible tales of travel. 

[7] "Moga's eye-tooth. "

[8] As a rule, twelve hours without water in the desert during hotweather, kill a man. I never suffered severely from thirst but on thisoccasion; probably it was in consequence of being at the time but in weakhealth. 

[9] I have never shot this feathered friend of man, although frequentopportunities presented themselves. He appears to be the Cuculus Indicator(le Coucou Indicateur) and the Om-Shlanvo of the Kafirs; the Somal callhim Maris. Described by Father Lobo and Bruce, he is treated as a myth byLe Vaillant; M. Wiedman makes him cry "Shirt! Shirt! Shirt!" Dr. Sparrman"Tcherr! Tcherr!" Mr. Delegorgue "Chir! Chir! Chir!" His note suggested tome the shrill chirrup of a sparrow, and his appearance that of agreenfinch. 

Buffon has repeated what a traveller had related, namely, that the honey-bird is a little traitor who conducts men into ambuscades prepared by wildbeasts. The Lion-Slayer in S. Africa asserts it to be the belief ofHottentots and the interior tribes, that the bird often lures the unwarypursuer to danger, sometimes guiding him to the midday retreat of agrizzly lion, or bringing him suddenly upon the den of the crouchingpanther. M. Delegorgue observes that the feeble bird probably seeks aid inremoving carrion for the purpose of picking up flies and worms; he acquitshim of malice prepense, believing that where the prey is, therecarnivorous beasts may be met. 

The Somal, however, carry their superstition still farther. The honey-birdis never trusted by them; he leads, they say, either to the lions' den orthe snakes' hiding-place, and often guides his victim into the jaws of theKaum or plundering party. 

[10] The Somal have several kinds of honey. The Donyale or wasp-honey, isscanty and bad; it is found in trees and obtained by smoking and cuttingthe branch. The Malab Shinni or bee-honey, is either white, red or brown;the first is considered the most delicate in flavour. 

[11] The Somal call it Arrah As. 

[12] The sand-grouse of Egypt and Arabia, the rock-pigeon of Sindh and thesurrounding countries. 

[13] The Habr Gerhajis, or eldest branch of the sons of Ishak (generallyincluding the children of "Arab"), inhabit the Ghauts behind Berberah, whence they extend for several days' march towards Ogadayn, the southernregion. This tribe is divided into a multitude of clans. The Ismail Arrahsupply the Sultan, a nominal chief like the Eesa Ugaz; they extend fromMakhar to the south of Gulays, number about 15, 000 shields and aresubdivided into three septs. The Musa Arrah hold the land between Gulaysand the seats of the Mijjarthayn and Warsangeli tribes on the windwardcoast. The Ishak Arrah count 5000 or 6000 shields, and inhabit the GulaysRange. The other sons of Arrah (the fourth in descent from Ishak), namely, Mikahil, Gambah, Daudan, and others, also became founders of small clans. The Ayyal Daud, facetiously called "Idagallah" or earth-burrowers, andsprung from the second son of Gerhajis, claim the country south of theHabr Awal, reckon about 4000 shields, and are divided into 11 or 12 septs. 

As has been noticed, the Habr Gerhajis have a perpetual blood feud withthe Habr Awal, and, even at Aden, they have fought out their quarrels withclubs and stones. Yet as cousins they willingly unite against a commonenemy, the Eesa for instance, and become the best of friends. 

[14] So called from the Mary Anne brig, here plundered in 1825. 

CHAP. X. 

BERBERAH AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

It is interesting to compare the earliest with the latest account of thegreat emporium of Eastern Africa. 

Bartema, writing in the sixteenth century "of Barbara and the Island ofEthiope, " offers the following brief description:--"After that thetempests were appeased, we gave wind to our sails, and in short timearrived at an island named Barbara, the prince whereof is a Mahometan. [1]The island is not great but fruitful and well peopled: it hath abundanceof flesh. The inhabitants are of colour inclining to black. All theirriches is in herds of cattle. "

Lieut. Cruttenden of the I. N. , writing in 1848, thus describes theplace:--"The annual fair is one of the most interesting sights on thecoast, if only from the fact of many different and distant tribes beingdrawn together for a short time, to be again scattered in all directions. Before the towers of Berbera were built [2], the place from April to theearly part of October was utterly deserted, not even a fisherman beingfound there; but no sooner did the season change, than the inland tribescommenced moving down towards the coast, and preparing their huts fortheir expected visitors. Small craft from the ports of Yemen, anxious tohave an opportunity of purchasing before vessels from the gulf couldarrive, hastened across, followed about a fortnight to three weeks laterby their larger brethren from Muscat, Soor, and Ras el Khyma, and thevaluably freighted Bagalas [3] from Bahrein, Bussorah, and Graen. Lastly, the fat and wealthy Banian traders from Porebunder, Mandavie, and Bombay, rolled across in their clumsy Kotias [3], and with a formidable row ofempty ghee jars slung over the quarters of their vessels, elbowedthemselves into a permanent position in the front tier of craft in theharbour, and by their superior capital, cunning, and influence soondistanced all competitors. "

"During the height of the fair, Berbera is a perfect Babel, in confusionas in languages: no chief is acknowledged, and the customs of bygone daysare the laws of the place. Disputes between the inland tribes daily arise, and are settled by the spear and dagger, the combatants retiring to thebeach at a short distance from the town, in order that they may notdisturb the trade. Long strings of camels are arriving and departing dayand night, escorted generally by women alone, until at a distance from thetown; and an occasional group of dusky and travel-worn children marks thearrival of the slave Cafila from Hurrur and Efat. "

"At Berbera, the Gurague and Hurrur slave merchant meets his correspondentfrom Bussorah, Bagdad, or Bunder Abbas; and the savage Gidrbeersi(Gudabirsi), with his head tastefully ornamented with a scarlet sheepskinin lieu of a wig, is seen peacefully bartering his ostrich feathers andgums with the smooth-spoken Banian from Porebunder, who prudently livingon board his ark, and locking up his puggree [4], which would infalliblybe knocked off the instant he was seen wearing it, exhibits but a smallportion of his wares at a time, under a miserable mat spread on thebeach. "

"By the end of March the fair is nearly at a close, and craft of allkinds, deeply laden, and sailing generally in parties of three and four, commence their homeward journey. The Soori boats are generally the last toleave, and by the first week in April, Berbera is again deserted, nothingbeing left to mark the site of a town lately containing 20, 000inhabitants, beyond bones of slaughtered camels and sheep, and theframework of a few huts, which is carefully piled on the beach inreadiness for the ensuing year. Beasts of prey now take the opportunity toapproach the sea: lions are commonly seen at the town well during the hotweather; and in April last year, but a week after the fair had ended, Iobserved three ostriches quietly walking on the beach. " [5]

Of the origin of Berberah little is known. El Firuzabadi derives it, withgreat probability, from two Himyar chiefs of Southern Arabia. [6] AboutA. D. 522 the troops of Anushirwan expelled the Abyssinians from Yemen, andre-established there a Himyari prince under vassalage of the PersianMonarch. Tradition asserts the port to have been occupied in turns by theFurs [7], the Arabs, the Turks, the Gallas, and the Somal. And its futurefortunes are likely to be as varied as the past. 

The present decadence of Berberah is caused by petty internal feuds. Gerhajis the eldest son of Ishak el Hazrami, seized the mountain ranges ofGulays and Wagar lying about forty miles behind the coast, whilst Awal, the cadet, established himself and his descendants upon the lowlands fromBerberah to Zayla. Both these powerful tribes assert a claim to thecustoms and profits of the port on the grounds that they jointly conqueredit from the Gallas. [8] The Habr Awal, however, being in possession, wouldmonopolize the right: a blood feud rages, and the commerce of the placesuffers from the dissensions of the owners. 

Moreover the Habr Awal tribe is not without internal feuds. Two kindredsepts, the Ayyal Yunis Nuh and the Ayyal Ahmed Nuh [9], establishedthemselves originally at Berberah. The former, though the more numerous, admitted the latter for some years to a participation of profits, but whenAden, occupied by the British, rendered the trade valuable, they drove outthe weaker sept, and declared themselves sole "Abbans" to strangers duringthe fair. A war ensued. The sons of Yunis obtained aid of the Mijjarthayntribe. The sons of Ahmed called in the Habr Gerhajis, especially the MusaArrah clan, to which the Hajj Sharmarkay belongs, and, with hisassistance, defeated and drove out the Ayyal Yunis. These, flying fromBerberah, settled at the haven of Bulhar, and by their old connection withthe Indian and other foreign traders, succeeded in drawing off aconsiderable amount of traffic. But the roadstead was insecure: manyvessels were lost, and in 1847 the Eesa Somal slaughtered the women andchildren of the new-comers, compelling them to sue the Ayyal Ahmed forpeace. Though the feud thus ended, the fact of its having had existenceensures bad blood: amongst these savages treaties are of no avail, and theslightest provocation on either side becomes a signal for renewedhostilities. 

 * * * * *

After this dry disquisition we will return, dear L. , to my doings atBerberah. 

Great fatigue is seldom followed by long sleep. Soon after sunrise Iawoke, hearing loud voices proceeding from a mass of black face and tawnywig, that blocked up the doorway, pressing forward to see their newstranger. The Berberah people had been informed by the Donkey of ourhaving ridden from the Girhi hills in five days: they swore that not onlythe thing was impossible, but moreover that we had never sighted Harar. Having undergone the usual catechising with credit, I left the thatchedhat in which my comrades were living, and proceeded to inspect myattendants and cattle. The former smiled blandly: they had acquittedthemselves of their trust, they had outwitted the Ayyal Ahmed, who wouldbe furious thereat, they had filled themselves with dates, rice, andsugared tea--another potent element of moral satisfaction--and theytrusted that a few days would show them their wives and families. The Endof Time's brow, however, betrayed an _arriere pensee_; once more hiscowardice crept forth, and he anxiously whispered that his existencedepended upon my protection. The poor mules were by no means so easilyrestored. Their backs, cut to the bone by the saddles, stood up like thoseof angry cats, their heads drooped sadly, and their hams showed red marksof the spear-point. Directing them to be washed in the sea, dressed withcold-water bandages, and copiously fed, I proceeded to inspect theBerberah Plain. 

The "Mother of the Poor, " as the Arabs call the place, in positionresembles Zayla. The town, --if such name can be given to what is now awretched clump of dirty mat-huts, --is situated on the northern edge ofalluvial ground, sloping almost imperceptibly from the base of theSouthern hills. The rapacity of these short-sighted savages has contractedits dimensions to about one sixth of its former extent: for nearly a milearound, the now desert land is strewed with bits of glass and brokenpottery. Their ignorance has chosen the worst position: _Mos Majorum_ isthe Somali code, where father built there son builds, and there shallgrandson build. To the S. And E. Lies a saline sand-flat, partiallyoverflowed by high tides: here are the wells of bitter water, and thefilth and garbage make the spot truly offensive. Northwards the sea-strandhas become a huge cemetery, crowded with graves whose dimensions explainthe Somali legend that once there were giants in the land: traditionassigns to it the name of Bunder Abbas. Westward, close up to the town, runs the creek which forms the wealth of Berberah. A long strip of sandand limestone--the general formation of the coast--defends its length fromthe northern gales, the breadth is about three quarters of a mile, and thedepth varies from six to fifteen fathoms near the Ras or Spit at whichships anchor before putting out to sea. 

Behind the town, and distant about seven miles, lie the Sub-Ghauts, a boldbackground of lime and sandstone. Through a broad gap called Duss Malablay[10] appear in fine weather the granite walls of Wagar and Gulays, whosealtitude by aneroid was found to be 5700 feet above the level of the sea. [11] On the eastward the Berberah plain is bounded by the hills of Siyaro, and westwards the heights of Dabasenis limit the prospect. [12]

It was with astonishment that I reflected upon the impolicy of havingpreferred Aden to this place. 

The Emporium of Eastern Africa has a salubrious climate [13], abundance ofsweet water--a luxury to be "fully appreciated only after a residence atAden" [14]--a mild monsoon, a fine open country, an excellent harbour, anda soil highly productive. It is the meeting-place of commerce, has fewrivals, and with half the sums lavished in Arabia upon engineer follies ofstone and lime, the environs might at this time have been covered withhouses, gardens, and trees. 

The Eye of Yemen, to quote Carlyle, is a "mountain of misery toweringsheer up like a bleak Pisgah, with outlooks only into desolation, sand, salt water, and despair. " The camp is in a "Devil's Punchbowl, " stiflinglyhot during nine months of the year, and subject to alternations ofsandstorm and Simum, "without either seed, water, or trees, " as IbnBatutah described it 500 years ago, unproductive for want of rain, --not asparrow can exist there, nor will a crow thrive, [15]--and essentiallyunhealthy. [156] Our loss in operatives is only equalled by our waste ofrupees; and the general wish of Western India is, that the extinct sea offire would, Vesuvius-like, once more convert this dismal cape into aliving crater. 

After a day's rest--physical not spiritual, for the Somal were as usualdisputing violently about the Abbanship [17]--I went with my comrades tovisit an interesting ruin near the town. On the way we were shown pits ofcoarse sulphur and alum mixed with sand; in the low lands senna andcolocynth were growing wild. After walking a mile south-south-east, frompresent Berberah to a rise in the plain, we found the remains of a smallbuilding about eight yards square divided into two compartments. It isapparently a Mosque: one portion, the sole of which is raised, showstraces of the prayer niche; the other might have contained the tomb ofsome saint now obsolete, or might have been a fort to protect aneighbouring tank. The walls are of rubble masonry and mud, revetted witha coating of cement hard as stone, and mixed with small round pebbles. [18] Near it is a shallow reservoir of stone and lime, about five yards byten, proved by the aqueduct, part of which still remains, to be a tank ofsupply. Removing the upper slabs, we found the interior lined with adeposit of sulphate of lime and choked with fine drift sand; the breadthis about fifteen inches and the depth nine. After following it fifty yardstoward the hills, we lost the trace; the loose stones had probably beenremoved for graves, and the soil may have buried the firmer portion. 

Mounting our mules we then rode in a south-south-east direction towardsthe Dubar Hills, The surface of the ground, apparently level, rises about100 feet per mile. In most parts a soft sand overlying hard loam, likework _en pise_, limestone and coralline; it shows evidences of inundation:water-worn stones of a lime almost as compact as marble, pieces of quartz, selenite, basalt, granite, and syenite in nodules are everywhere sprinkledover the surface. [19] Here and there torrents from the hills had cutchannels five or six feet below the level, and a thicker vegetationdenoted the lines of bed. The growth of wild plants, scanty near thecoast, became more luxuriant as we approached the hills; the Arman Acaciaflourished, the Kulan tree grew in clumps, and the Tamarisk formed hereand there a dense thicket. Except a few shy antelope, [20] we saw no game. 

A ride of seven or eight miles led us to the dry bed of a watercourseovergrown with bright green rushes, and known to the people as Dubar Wena, or Great Dubar. This strip of ground, about half a mile long, collects thedrainage of the hills above it: numerous Las or Pits, in the centre of thebed, four or five feet deep, abundantly supply the flocks and herds. Although the surface of the ground, where dry, was white with impurenitre, the water tasted tolerably sweet. Advancing half a mile over thesouthern shoulder of a coarse and shelly mass of limestone, we found theother rushy swamp, called Dubar Yirr or Little Dubar. A spring of warm andbitter water flowed from the hill over the surface to a distance of 400 or500 yards, where it was absorbed by the soil. The temperature of thesources immediately under the hill was 106° Fahr. , the thermometerstanding at 80° in the air, and the aneroid gave an altitude of 728 feetabove the sea. 

The rocks behind these springs were covered with ruins of mosques andhouses. We visited a little tower commanding the source; it was built insteps, the hill being cut away to form the two lower rooms, and the secondstory showed three compartments. The material was rubble and the formresembled Galla buildings; we found, however, fine mortar mixed withcoarse gravel, bits of glass bottles and blue glazed pottery, articles nowunknown to this part of Africa. On the summit of the highest peak ourguides pointed out remains of another fort similar to the old Turkishwatchtowers at Aden. 

About three quarters of a mile from the Little Dubar, we found the head ofthe Berberah Aqueduct. Thrown across a watercourse apparently of lowlevel, it is here more substantially built than near the beach, andprobably served as a force pipe until the water found a fall. We tracedthe line to a distance of ten yards, where it disappeared beneath thesoil, and saw nothing resembling a supply-tank except an irregularlyshaped natural pool. [21]

A few days afterwards, accompanied by Lieut. Herne, I rode out to inspectthe Biyu Gora or Night-running Water. After advancing about ten miles in asouth-east direction from Berberah, we entered rough and broken ground, and suddenly came upon a Fiumara about 250 yards broad. The banks werefringed with Brab and Tamarisk, the Daum palm and green rushes: a clearsparkling and shallow stream bisected the sandy bed, and smaller brancheswandered over the surface. This river, the main drain of the Ghauts andSub-Ghauts, derives its name from the increased volume of the watersduring night: evaporation by day causes the absorption of about a hundredyards. We found its temperature 73° Fahr. (in the air 78°), and our peopledug holes in the sand instead of drinking from the stream, a proof thatthey feared leeches. [22] The taste of the water was bitter and nauseous. [23]

Following the course of the Biyu Gora through two low parallel ranges ofconglomerate, we entered a narrow gorge, in which lime and sandstoneabound. The dip of the strata is about 45° west, the strike north andsouth. Water springs from under every stone, drops copiously from theshelves of rock, oozes out of the sand, and bubbles up from the mould. Thetemperature is exceedingly variable: in some places the water is icy cold, in others, the thermometer shows 68° Fahr. , in others, 101°--the maximum, when we visited it, being 126°. The colours are equally diverse. Here, thepolished surface of the sandstone is covered with a hoar of salt andnitre. [24] There, where the stream does not flow, are pools dyedgreenish-black or rust-red by iron sediment. The gorge's sides are a vividred: a peculiar creeper hangs from the rocks, and water trickles down itsmetallic leaves. The upper cliffs are crowned with tufts of the dragon's-blood tree. 

Leaving our mules with an attendant, we began to climb the rough and rockygorge which, as the breadth diminishes, becomes exceedingly picturesque. In one part, the side of a limestone hill hundreds of feet in height, hasslipped into the chasm, half filling it with gigantic boulders: throughthese the noisy stream whirls, now falling in small cascades, then glidingover slabs of sheet rock: here it cute grooved channels and deep basinsclean and sharp as artificial baths in the sandstone, there it flowsquietly down a bed of pure sparkling sand. The high hills above are of atawny yellow: the huge boulders, grisly white, bear upon their summits thedrift wood of the last year's inundation. During the monsoon, when afurious torrent sweeps down from the Wagar Hills, this chasm must afford acuriously wild spectacle. 

Returning from a toilsome climb, we found some of the Ayyal Ahmed buildingnear the spot where Biyu Gora is absorbed, the usual small stone tower. The fact had excited attention at Berberah; the erection was intended tostore grain, but the suspicious savages, the Eesa Musa, and Mikahil, whohold the land, saw in it an attempt to threaten their liberties. On ourway home we passed through some extensive cemeteries: the tombs were ingood preservation; there was nothing peculiar in their construction, yetthe Somal were positive that they belonged to a race preceding their own. Near them were some ruins of kilns, --comparatively modern, for bits ofcharcoal were mixed with broken pieces of pottery, --and the oblong traceryof a dwelling-house divided into several compartments: its material wasthe sun-dried brick of Central Asia, here a rarity. 

After visiting these ruins there was little to detain me at Berberah. Thetown had become intolerable, the heat under a mat hut was extreme, thewind and dust were almost as bad as Aden, and the dirt perhaps even worse. As usual we had not a moment's privacy, Arabs as well as the Somalassuming the right of walking in, sitting down, looking hard, chattingwith one another, and departing. Before the voyage, however, I was calledupon to compose a difficulty upon the subject of Abbanship. The Hammal hadnaturally constituted his father-in-law, one Burhale Nuh, of the AyyalGedid, protector to Lieut. Herne and myself. Burhale had proved himself arascal: he had been insolent as well as dishonest, and had thrown frequentobstacles in his employer's way; yet custom does not permit the Abban tobe put away like a wife, and the Hammal's services entitled him to thefullest consideration. On the other hand Jami Hasan, a chief and a doughtyman of the Ayyal Ahmed, had met me at Aden early in 1854, and had receivedfrom me a ring in token of Abbanship. During my absence at Harar, he hadtaken charge of Lieut. Stroyan. On the very morning of my arrival he cameto the hut, sat down spear in hand, produced the ring and claimed mypromise. In vain I objected that the token had been given when a previoustrip was intended, and that the Hammal must not be disappointed: Jamireplied that once an Abban always an Abban, that he hated the Hammal andall his tribe, and that he would enter into no partnership with BurhaleNuh:--to complicate matters, Lieut. Stroyan spoke highly of his courageand conduct. Presently he insisted rudely upon removing his _protege_ toanother part of the town: this passed the limits of our patience, anddecided the case against him. 

For some days discord raged between the rivals. At last it was settledthat I should choose my own Abban in presence of a general council of theElders. The chiefs took their places upon the shore, each with hisfollowers forming a distinct semicircle, and all squatting with shield andspear planted upright in the ground. When sent for, I entered the circlesword in hand, and sat down awaiting their pleasure. After much murmuringhad subsided, Jami asked in a loud voice, "Who is thy protector?" Thereply was, "Burhale Nuh!" Knowing, however, how little laconism is prizedby an East-African audience, I did not fail to follow up this answer withan Arabic speech of the dimensions of an average sermon, and thenshouldering my blade left the circle abruptly. The effect was success. Ourwild friends sat from afternoon till sunset: as we finished supper one ofthem came in with the glad tidings of a "peace conference. " Jami had askedBurhale to swear that he intended no personal offence in taking away a_protege_ pledged to himself: Burhale had sworn, and once more the olivewaved over the braves of Berberah. 

On the 5th February 1855, taking leave of my comrades, I went on board ElKasab or the Reed--such was the ill-omened name of our cranky craft--tothe undisguised satisfaction of the Hammal, Long Guled, and the End ofTime, who could scarcely believe in their departure from Berberah withsound skins. [25] Coasting with a light breeze, early after noon on thenext day we arrived at Siyaro, a noted watering-place for shipping, aboutnineteen miles east of the emporium. The roadstead is open to the north, but a bluff buttress of limestone rock defends it from the north-eastgales. Upon a barren strip of sand lies the material of the town; twohouses of stone and mud, one yet unfinished, the other completed aboutthirty years ago by Farih Binni, a Mikahil chief. 

Some dozen Bedouin spearmen, Mikahil of a neighbouring kraal, squattedlike a line of crows upon the shore to receive us as we waded from thevessel. They demanded money in too authoritative a tone before allowing usto visit the wells, which form their principal wealth. Resolved not torisk a quarrel so near Berberah, I was returning to moralise upon the fateof Burckhardt--after a successful pilgrimage refused admittance to Aaron'stomb at Sinai--when a Bedouin ran to tell us that we might wander where wepleased. He excused himself and his companions by pleading necessity, andhis leanness lent conviction to the plea. 

The larger well lies close to the eastern wall of the dwelling-house: itis about eighteen feet deep, one third sunk through ground, the other twothirds through limestone, and at the bottom is a small supply of sweetclear water, Near it I observed some ruined tanks, built with fine mortarlike that of the Berberah ruins. The other well lies about half a mile tothe westward of the former: it is also dug in the limestone rock. A fewyards to the north-east of the building is the Furzeh or custom-house, whose pristine simplicity tempts me to describe it:--a square of groundsurrounded by a dwarf rubble enclosure, and provided with a proportionalmosque, a tabular block of coralline niched in the direction of Meccah. Ona little eminence of rock to the westward, rise ruined walls, said by mycompanions to have been built by a Frank, who bought land from the Mikahiland settled on this dismal strand. 

Taking leave of the Bedouins; whose hearts were gladdened by a few smallpresents, we resumed our voyage eastwards along the coast. Next morning, we passed two broken pyramids of dark rock called Dubada Gumbar Madu--theTwo Black Hills. After a tedious day's sail, twenty miles in twenty-fourhours, the Captain of El Kasab landed us in a creek west of Aynterad. Afew sheep-boats lay at anchor in this "back-bay, " as usual when the sea isheavy at the roadstead; and the crews informed us that a body of Bedouinswas marching to attack the village. Abdy Mohammed Diban, proprietor of theAynterad Fort, having constituted me his protector, and remained atBerberah, I armed my men, and ordering the Captain of the "Reed" to bringhis vessel round at early dawn, walked hurriedly over the three miles thatseparated us from the place. Arrived at the fort, we found that Abdy'sslaves knew nothing of the reported attack. They received me, however, hospitably, and brought a supper of their only provision, vile dates anddried meat. Unwilling to diminish the scanty store, the Hammal and I butdipped our hands in the dish: Long Guled and the End of Time, however, soon cleared the platters, while abusing roundly the unpalatable food. After supper, a dispute arose between the Hammal and one of the Habr TulJailah, the tribe to whom the land belongs. The Bedouin, not liking mylooks, proposed to put his spear into me. The Hammal objected that if themeasure were carried out, he would return the compliment in kind. Ensued along dispute, and the listeners laughed heartily at the utter indifferencewith which I gave ear. When it concluded, amicably as may be expected, theslaves spread a carpet upon a coarse Berberah couch, and having againvented their hilarity in a roar of laughter, left me to sleep. 

We had eaten at least one sheep per diem, and mutton baked in the ship'soven is delicious to the Somali mouth. Remained on board another dinner, acircumstance which possibly influenced the weak mind of the Captain of the"Reed. " Awaking at dawn, I went out, expecting to find the vessel withinstone's throw: it was nowhere visible. About 8 A. M. , it appeared in sight, a mere speck upon the sea-horizon, and whilst it approached, I inspectedthe settlement. 

Aynterad, an inconsiderable place lying east-north-east of, and aboutforty miles from, Berberah, is a favourite roadstead principally onaccount of its water, which rivals that of Siyaro. The anchorage is bad:the Shimal or north wind sweeps long lines of heavy wave into the openbay, and the bottom is a mass of rock and sand-reef. The fifty sunburntand windsoiled huts which compose the settlement, are built upon a bank ofsand overlying the normal limestone: at the time when I visited it, themale population had emigrated _en masse_ to Berberah. It is principallysupported by the slave trade, the Arabs preferring to ship their purchasesat some distance from the chief emporium. [26] Lieut. Herne, when hevisited it, found a considerable amount of "black bullion" in the market. 

The fort of Aynterad, erected thirty years ago by Mohammed Diban, is astone and mud house square and flat-roofed, with high windows, an attemptat crenelles, and, for some reason intelligible only to its own Vitruvius, but a single bastion at the northern angle. There is no well, and the massof huts cluster close to the walls. The five guns here deposited bySharmarkay when expelled from Berberah, stand on the ground outside thefort, which is scarcely calculated to bear heavy carronades: they areunprovided with balls, but that is a trifle where pebbles abound. Moreover, Abdy's slaves are well armed with matchlock and pistol, and theBedouin Tul Jailah [27] find the spear ineffectual against stone walls. The garrison has frequently been blockaded by its troublesome neighbours, whose prowess, however, never extended beyond preliminaries. 

To allay my impatience, that morning I was invited into several huts forthe purpose of drinking sour milk. A malicious joy filled my soul, asabout noon, the Machiavellian Captain of the "Reed" managed to castanchor, after driving his crazy craft through a sea which the violentShimal was flinging in hollow curves foam-fringed upon the strand. I stoodon the shore making signs for a canoe. My desires were disregarded, aslong as decency admitted. At last, about 1 P. M. , I found myself upon thequarter-deck. 

"Dawwir el farman, "--shift the yard!--I shouted with a voice of thunder. 

The answer was a general hubbub. "He surely will not sail in a sea likethis?" asked the trembling Captain of my companions. 

"He will!" sententiously quoth the Hammal, with a Burleigh nod. 

"It blows wind--" remonstrated the Rais. 

"And if it blew fire?" asked the Hammal with the air _goguenard_, meaningthat from the calamity of Frankish obstinacy there was no refuge. 

A kind of death-wail arose, during which, to hide untimely laughter, Iretreated to a large drawer, in the stern of the vessel, called a cabin. There my ears could distinguish the loud entreaties of the crew vainlyurging my attendants to propose a day's delay. Then one of the garrison, accompanied by the Captain who shook as with fever, resolved to actforlorn hope, and bring a _feu d'enfer_ of phrases to bear upon theFrank's hard brain. Scarcely, however, had the head of the sentence beendelivered, before he was playfully upraised by his bushy hair and a handlesomewhat more substantial, carried out of the cabin, and thrown, like abag of biscuit, on the deck. 

The case was hopeless. All strangers plunged into the sea, --the popularway of landing in East Africa, --the anchor was weighed, the ton of sailshaken out, and the "Reed" began to dip and rise in the yeasty sealaboriously as an alderman dancing a polka. 

For the first time in my life I had the satisfaction of seeing the Somalunable to eat--unable to eat mutton. In sea-sickness and needless terror, the captain, crew, and passengers abandoned to us all the baked sheep, which we three, not being believers in the Evil Eye, ate from head totrotters with especial pleasure. That night the waves broke over us. TheEnd of Time occupied himself in roaring certain orisons, which are reputedto calm stormy seas: he desisted only when Long Guled pointed out that awilder gust seemed to follow as in derision each more emphatic period. TheCaptain, a noted reprobate, renowned on shore for his knowledge of eroticverse and admiration of the fair sex, prayed with fervour: he was joinedby several of the crew, who apparently found the charm of novelty in theedifying exercise. About midnight a Sultan el Bahr or Sea-king--a speciesof whale--appeared close to our counter; and as these animals are infamousfor upsetting vessels in waggishness, the sight elicited a yell of terrorand a chorus of religious exclamations. 

On the morning of Friday, the 9th February 1855, we hove in sight of JebelShamsan, the loftiest peak of the Aden Crater. And ere evening fell, I hadthe pleasure of seeing the faces of friends and comrades once more. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] I cannot guess why Bartema decided "Barbara" to be an island, exceptthat he used "insula" in the sense of "peninsula. " The town is at veryhigh tides flooded round, but the old traveller manifestly speaks of thecountry. 

[2] These are the four martello towers erected, upon the spot where thetown of huts generally stands, by the Hajj Sharmarkay, who garrisoned themwith thirty Arab and Negro matchlockmen. They are now in ruins, havingbeen dismantled by orders from Aden. 

[3] The former is an Arab craft, the latter belongs to the Northern Coastsof Western India. 

[4] A turban. 

[5] The wild animals have now almost entirely disappeared. As willafterwards be shown, the fair since 1848 has diminished to one third itsformer dimensions. 

[6] This subject has been fully discussed in Chap. IV. 

[7] The old Persians. 

[8] Especially the sea-board Habr Gerbajis clans, --the Musa Arrah, the AliSaid, and the Saad Yunis--are interested in asserting their claims. 

[9] Yunis and Ahmed were brothers, children of Nuh, the ninth in descentfrom Ishak el Hazrami. The former had four sons, Hosh Yunis, Gedid Yunis, Mahmud Yunis, and Shirdon Yunis; their descendants are all known as theAyyal or progeny of Yunis. The Ayyal Ahmed Nuh hold the land immediatelybehind the town, and towards the Ghauts, blend with the Eesa Musa. TheMikahil claim the Eastern country from Siyaro to Illanti, a wooded valleyaffording good water and bad anchorage to wind-bound vessels. 

[10] In the centre of the gap is a detached rock called Daga Malablay. 

[11] It was measured by Lt. Herne, who remarks of this range that "cold inwinter, as the presence of the pine-tree proves, and cooled in summer bythe Monsoon, abounding in game from a spur fowl to an elephant; this hillwould make an admirable Sanitarium. " Unfortunately Gulays is tenanted bythe Habr Gerhajis, and Wagar by the Eesa Musa, treacherous races. 

[12] This part of Somali land is a sandy plain, thinly covered with thornsand bounded by two ranges, the Ghauts and Sub-Ghauts. The latter ormaritime mountains begin at Tajurrah, and extend to Karam (long. 46° E. ), where they break into detached groups; the distance from the coast variesfrom 6 to 15 miles, the height from 2000 to 3000 feet, and the surface isbarren, the rock being denuded of soil by rain. The Ghauts lie from 8 to40 miles from the sea, they average from 4000 to 6000 feet, are thicklycovered with gum-arabic and frankincense trees, the wild fig and theSomali pine, and form the seaward wall of the great table-land of theinterior. The Northern or maritime face is precipitous, the summit istabular and slopes gently southwards. The general direction is E. By N. And W. By S. , there are, however, some spurs at the three hills termed"Ourat, " which project towards the north. Each portion of the plainbetween these ranges has some local name, such as the "Shimberali Valley"extending westwards from the detached hill Dimoli, to Gauli, Dinanjir andGularkar. Intersected with Fiumaras which roll torrents during themonsoon, they are covered with a scrub of thorns, wild fig, aloe, anddifferent kinds of Cactus. 

[13] The climate of Berberah is cool during the winter, and though the sunis at all times burning, the atmosphere, as in Somali land generally, ishealthy. In the dry season the plain is subject to great heats, but lyingopen to the north, the sea-breeze is strong and regular. In the monsoonthe air is cloudy, light showers frequently fall, and occasionally heavystorms come up from the southern hills. 

[14] I quote Lieut. Cruttenden. The Berberah water has acquired a bad namebecause the people confine themselves to digging holes three or four feetdeep in the sand, about half-a-mile from high-water mark. They arereconciled to it by its beneficial effects, especially after and before ajourney. Good water, however, can be procured in any of the Fiumarasintersecting the plain; when the Hajj Sharmarkay's towers commanded thetown wells, the people sank pits in low ground a few hundred yardsdistant, and procured a purer beverage. The Banyans, who are particularabout their potations, drink the sweet produce of Siyaro, a roadsteadabout nineteen miles eastward of Berberah. 

[15] The experiment was tried by an officer who brought from Bombay abatch of sparrows and crows. The former died, scorbutic I presume; thelatter lingered through an unhappy life, and to judge from the absence ofyoung, refused to entail their miseries upon posterity. 

[16] The climate of Aden, it may be observed, has a reputation forsalubrity which it does not deserve. The returns of deaths prove it to behealthy for the European soldier as London, and there are many who havebuilt their belief upon the sandy soil of statistics. But it is thepractice of every sensible medical man to hurry his patients out of Aden;they die elsewhere, --some I believe recover, --and thus the deaths causedby the crater are attributed statistically to Bombay or the Red Sea. 

Aden is for Asiatics a hot-bed of scurry and ulcer. Of the former diseasemy own corps, I am informed, had in hospital at one time 200 cases abovethe usual amount of sickness; this arises from the brackish water, thewant of vegetables, and lastly the cachexy induced by an utter absence ofchange, diversion, and excitement. The ulcer is a disease endemic inSouthern Arabia; it is frequently fatal, especially to the poorer classesof operatives, when worn out by privation, hardship, and fatigue. 

[17] The Abban is now the pest of Berberah. Before vessels have castanchor, or indeed have rounded the Spit, a crowd of Somal, eager as hotel-touters, may be seen running along the strand. They swim off, and thefirst who arrives on board inquires the name of the Abban; if there benone he touches the captain or one of the crew and constitutes himselfprotector. For merchandise sent forward, the man who conveys it becomesanswerable. 

The system of dues has become complicated. Formerly, the standard of valueat Berberah was two cubits of the blue cotton-stuff called Sauda; this isnow converted into four pice of specie. Dollars form the principalcurrency; rupees are taken at a discount. Traders pay according to degree, the lowest being one per cent. , taken from Muscat and Suri merchants. Theshopkeeper provides food for his Abban, and presents him at the close ofthe season with a Tobe, a pair of sandals, and half-a-dozen dollars. Wealthy Banyans and Mehmans give food and raiment, and before departurefrom 50 to 200 dollars. This class, however, derives large profits; theywill lend a few dollars to the Bedouin at the end of the Fair, oncondition of receiving cent. Per cent. , at the opening of the next season. Travellers not transacting business must feed the protector, but cannotproperly be forced to pay him. Of course the Somal take every advantage ofEuropeans. Mr. Angelo, a merchant from Zanzibar, resided two months atBulhar; his broker of the Ayyal Gedid tribe, and an Arab who accompaniedhim, extracted, it is said, 3000 dollars. As a rule the Abban claims oneper cent. On sales and purchases, and two dollars per head of slaves. Foreach bale of cloth, half-a-dollar in coin is taken; on gums and coffee theduty is one pound in twenty-seven. Cowhides pay half-a-dollar each, sheepand goat's skins four pice, and ghee about one per cent. 

Lieut. Herne calculates that the total money dues during the Fair-seasonamount to 2000 dollars, and that, in the present reduced state ofBerberah, not more than 10, 000_l. _ worth of merchandize is sold. Thisestimate the natives of the place declare to be considerably under themark. 

[18] The similarity between the Persian "Gach" and this cement, which isfound in many ruins about Berberah, has been remarked by other travellers. 

[19] The following note by Dr. Carter of Bombay will be interesting toIndian geologists. 

"Of the collection of geological specimens and fossils from Berberah abovementioned, Lieut. Burton states that the latter are found on the plain ofBerberah, and the former in the following order between the sea and thesummits of mountains (600 feet high), above it--that is, the ridgeimmediate behind Berberah. 

"1. Country along the coast consists of a coralline limestone, (tertiaryformation, ) with drifts of sand, &c. 2. Sub-Ghauts and lower ranges (say2000 feet high), of sandstone capped with limestone, the formerpreponderating. 3. Above the Ghauts a plateau of primitive rocks mixedwith sandstone, granite, syenite, mica schiste, quartz rock, micaceousgrit, &c. 

"The fawn-coloured fossils from his coralline limestone are evidently thesame as those of the tertiary formation along the south-east coast ofArabia, and therefore the same as those of Cutch; and it is exceedinglyinteresting to find that among the blue-coloured fossils which areaccompanied by specimens of the blue shale, composing the beds from whichthey have been weathered out, are species of Terebratula Belemnites, identical with those figured in Grant's Geology of Cutch; thus enabling usto extend those beds of the Jurassic formation which exist in Cutch, andalong the south-eastern coast of Arabia, across to Africa. "

[20] These animals are tolerably tame in the morning, as day advancestheir apprehension of man increases. 

[21] Lieut. Cruttenden in considering what nation could have constructed, and at what period the commerce of Berberah warranted, so costly anundertaking, is disposed to attribute it to the Persian conquerors of Adenin the days of Anushirwan. He remarks that the trade carried on in the RedSea was then great, the ancient emporia of Hisn Ghorab and Aden prosperousand wealthy, and Berberah doubtless exported, as it does now, ivory, gums, and ostrich feathers. But though all the maritime Somali country aboundsin traditions of the Furs or ancient Persians, none of the buildings nearBerberah justify our assigning to them, in a country of monsoon rain andhigh winds, an antiquity of 1300 years. 

The Somal assert that ten generations ago their ancestors drove out theGallas from Berberah, and attribute these works to the ancient Pagans. That nation of savages, however, was never capable of constructing ascientific aqueduct. I therefore prefer attributing these remains atBerberah to the Ottomans, who, after the conquest of Aden by SulaymanPacha in A. D. 1538, held Yemen for about 100 years, and as auxiliaries ofthe King of Adel, penetrated as far as Abyssinia. Traces of theirarchitecture are found at Zayla and Harar, and according to tradition, they possessed at Berberah a settlement called, after its founder, BunderAbbas. 

[22] Here, as elsewhere in Somali land, the leech is of the horse-variety. It might be worth while to attempt breeding a more useful species afterthe manner recommended by Capt. R. Johnston, the Sub-Assistant CommissaryGeneral in Sindh (10th April, 1845). In these streams leeches must alwaysbe suspected; inadvertently swallowed, they fix upon the inner coat of thestomach, and in Northern Africa have caused, it is said, some deaths amongthe French soldiers. 

[23] Yet we observed frogs and a small species of fish. 

[24] Either this or the sulphate of magnesia, formed by the decompositionof limestone, may account for the bitterness of the water. 

[25] They had been in some danger: a treacherous murder perpetrated a fewdays before our arrival had caused all the Habr Gerbajis to fly from thetown and assemble 5000 men at Bulhar for battle and murder. Thisproceeding irritated the Habr Awal, and certainly, but for our presence, the strangers would have been scurvily treated by their "cousins. "

[26] Of all the slave-dealers on this coast, the Arabs are the mostunscrupulous. In 1855, one Mohammed of Muscat, a shipowner, who, moreover, constantly visits Aden, bought within sight of our flag a free-born Arabgirl of the Yafai tribe, from the Akarib of Bir Hamid, and sold her atBerberah to a compatriot. Such a crime merits severe punishment; even theAbyssinians visit with hanging the Christian convicted of selling a fellowreligionist. The Arab slaver generally marries his properly as a ruse, andarrived at Muscat or Bushire, divorces and sells them. Free Somali womenhave not unfrequently met with this fate. 

[27] The Habr Tul Jailah (mother of the tribe of Jailah) descendants ofIshak el Hazrami by a slave girl, inhabit the land eastward of Berberah. Their principal settlements after Aynterad are the three small ports ofKaram, Unkor, and Hays. The former, according to Lieut. Cruttenden, is"the most important from its possessing a tolerable harbour, and from itsbeing the nearest point from Aden, the course to which place is N. N. W. , --consequently the wind is fair, and the boats laden with sheep for theAden market pass but one night at sea, whilst those from Berberah aregenerally three. What greatly enhances the value of Kurrum (Karam), however, is its proximity to the country of the Dulbahanteh, who approachwithin four days of Kurrum, and who therefore naturally have their chieftrade through that port. The Ahl Tusuf, a branch of the Habertel Jahleh, at present hold possession of Kurrum, and between them and the tribes towindward there exists a most bitter and irreconcileable feud, theconsequence of sundry murders perpetrated about five years since atKurrum, and which hitherto have not been avenged. The small ports ofEnterad, Unkor, Heis, and Rukudah are not worthy of mention, with theexception of the first-named place, which has a trade with Aden in sheep. "

POSTSCRIPT. 

On Saturday, the 7th April 1855, the H. E. I. Company's Schooner "Mahi, "Lieut. King, I. N. , commanding, entered the harbour of Berberah, where herguns roared forth a parting salute to the "Somali Expedition. "

The Emporium of East Africa was at the time of my landing, in a state ofconfusion. But a day before, the great Harar caravan, numbering 3000souls, and as many cattle, had entered for the purpose of laying in theusual eight months' supplies, and purchase, barter, and exchange weretransacted in most hurried and unbusiness-like manner. All day, and duringthe greater part of night, the town rang with the voices of buyer andseller: to specify no other articles of traffic, 500 slaves of both sexeswere in the market. [1] Long lines of laden and unladen camels were to beseen pacing the glaring yellow shore; rumours of plundering parties attimes brought swarms of spear-men, bounding and yelling like wild beasts, from the town; already small parties of travellers had broken ground fortheir return journey; and the foul heap of mat hovels, to which thiscelebrated mart had been reduced, was steadily shrinking in dimensions. 

Our little party consisted of forty-two souls. At Aden I had appliedofficially for some well-trained Somali policemen, but as an increase ofthat establishment had been urged upon the home authorities, my requestwas refused. We were fain to content ourselves with a dozen recruits ofvarious races, Egyptian, Nubian, Arab and Negro, whom we armed with sabresand flint muskets. The other members of the expedition were our privateservants, and about a score of Somal under our rival protectors Jami Hasanand Burhale Nuh. The Ras or Captain of the Kafilah was one Mahmud of theMijjarthayn, better known at Aden as El Balyuz or the Envoy: he had thereputation of being a shrewd manager, thoroughly acquainted with thehabits and customs, as well as the geography, of Somaliland. 

Our camp was pitched near the site of the proposed Agency, upon a rockyridge within musket-shot of the southern extremity of the creek, and aboutthree quarters of a mile distant from the town. This position had beenselected for the benefit of the "Mahi's" guns. Political exigenciesrequired the "Mahi" to relieve the "Elphinstone, " then blockading theseaboard of our old Arab foe, the Fazli chief; she was unable to remainupon the coast, and superintend our departure, a measure which I hadstrongly urged. Our tents were pitched in one line: Lieut. Stroyan's wason the extreme right, about a dozen paces distant was the "Rowtie" [2]occupied by Lieut. Herne and myself, and at a similar distance on the leftof the camp was that in which Lieut. Speke slept. The baggage was placedbetween the two latter, the camels were tethered in front upon a sandy bedbeneath the ridge our camping-ground, and in rear stood the horses andmules. During day-time all were on the alert: at night two sentries wereposted, regularly relieved, and visited at times by the Ras and ourselves. 

I had little reason to complain of my reception at Berberah. The chiefsappeared dissatisfied with the confinement of one Mohammed Sammattar, theAbban who accompanied Lieut. Speke to the Eastern country: they listened, however, with respectful attention to a letter in which the PoliticalResident at Aden enjoined them to treat us with consideration andhospitality. 

There had been petty disputes with Burhale Nuh, and the elders of the EesaMusa tribe, touching the hire of horse-keepers and camel-drivers: suchevents, however, are not worthy to excite attention in Africa. My friendat Harar, the Shaykh Jami, had repeatedly called upon us, ate bread andsalt, recommended us to his fellow countrymen, and used my intervention inpersuading avaricious ship-owners to transport, gratis, pauper pilgrims toArabia. The people, after seeing the deaths of a few elephants, graduallylowered their loud boasts and brawling claims: they assisted us in digginga well, offered their services as guides and camel-drivers, and in somecases insisted upon encamping near us for protection. Briefly, we saw nogrounds of apprehension. During thirty years, not an Englishman of themany that had visited it had been molested at Berberah, and apparentlythere was as little to fear in it as within the fortifications of Aden. [3]

Under these favourable circumstances we might have set out at once towardsthe interior. Our camels, fifty-six in number, had been purchased [4], andthe Ogadayn Caravan was desirous of our escort. But we wished to witnessthe close of the Berberah fair, and we expected instruments and othernecessaries by the mid-April mail from Europe. [5]

About 8 P. M. , on the 9th April, a shower, accompanied by thunder andlightning, came up from the southern hills, where rain had been fallingfor some days, and gave notice that the Gugi or Somali monsoon had begun. This was the signal for the Bedouins to migrate to the Plateau above thehills. [6] Throughout the town the mats were stripped from theirframeworks of stick and pole [7], the camels were laden, and thousands oftravellers lined the roads. The next day Berberah was almost desertedexcept by the pilgrims who intended to take ship, and by merchants, who, fearful of plundering parties, awaited the first favourable hour forsetting sail. Our protectors, Jami and Burhale, receiving permission toaccompany their families and flocks, left us in charge of their sons andrelations. On the 15th April the last vessel sailed out of the creek, andour little party remained in undisputed possession of the place. 

Three days afterwards, about noon, an Aynterad craft _en route_ from Adenentered the solitary harbour freighted with about a dozen Somal desirousof accompanying us towards Ogadayn, the southern region. She would havesailed that evening; fortunately, however, I had ordered our people tofeast her commander and crew with rice and the irresistible dates. 

At sunset on the same day we were startled by a discharge of musketrybehind the tents: the cause proved to be three horsemen, over whose headsour guard had fired in case they might be a foraging party. I reprimandedour people sharply for this act of folly, ordering them in future toreserve their fire, and when necessary to shoot into, not above, a crowd. After this we proceeded to catechise the strangers, suspecting them to bescouts, the usual forerunners of a Somali raid: the reply was so plausiblethat even the Balyuz, with all his acuteness, was deceived. The Bedouinshad forged a report that their ancient enemy the Hajj Sharmarkay wasawaiting with four ships at the neighbouring port, Siyaro, the opportunityof seizing Berberah whilst deserted, and of re-erecting his forts therefor the third time. Our visitors swore by the divorce-oath, --the mostsolemn which the religious know, --that a vessel entering the creek at suchunusual season, they had been sent to ascertain whether it had beenfreighted with materials for building, and concluded by laughingly askingif we feared danger from the tribe of our own protectors. Believing them, we posted as usual two sentries for the night, and retired to rest in ourwonted security. 

Between 2 and 3 A. M. Of the 19th April I was suddenly aroused by theBalyuz, who cried aloud that the enemy was upon us. [8] Hearing a rush ofmen like a stormy wind, I sprang up, called for my sabre, and sent Lieut. Herne to ascertain the force of the foray. Armed with a "Colt, " he went tothe rear and left of the camp, the direction of danger, collected some ofthe guard, --others having already disappeared, --and fired two shots intothe assailants. Then finding himself alone, he turned hastily towards thetent; in so doing he was tripped up by the ropes, and as he arose, aSomali appeared in the act of striking at him with a club. Lieut. Hernefired, floored the man, and rejoining me, declared that the enemy was ingreat force and the guard nowhere. Meanwhile, I had aroused Lieuts. Stroyan and Speke, who were sleeping in the extreme right and left tents. The former, it is presumed, arose to defend himself, but, as the sequelshows, we never saw him alive. [9] Lieut. Speke, awakened by the report offirearms, but supposing it the normal false alarm, --a warning toplunderers, --he remained where he was: presently hearing clubs rattlingupon his tent, and feet shuffling around, he ran to my Rowtie, which weprepared to defend as long as possible. 

The enemy swarmed like hornets with shouts and screams intending toterrify, and proving that overwhelming odds were against us: it was by nomeans easy to avoid in the shades of night the jobbing of javelins, andthe long heavy daggers thrown at our legs from under and through theopening of the tent. We three remained together: Lieut. Herne knelt by myright, on my left was Lieut. Speke guarding the entrance, I stood in thecentre, having nothing but a sabre. The revolvers were used by mycompanions with deadly effect: unfortunately there was but one pair. Whenthe fire was exhausted, Lieut. Herne went to search for his powder-horn, and that failing, to find some spears usually tied to the tent-pole. Whilst thus engaged, he saw a man breaking into the rear of our Rowtie, and came back to inform me of the circumstance. 

At this time, about five minutes after the beginning of the affray, thetent had been almost beaten down, an Arab custom with which we were allfamiliar, and had we been entangled in its folds, we should have beenspeared with unpleasant facility. I gave the word for escape, and salliedout, closely followed by Lieut. Herne, with Lieut. Speke in the rear. Theprospect was not agreeable. About twenty men were kneeling and crouchingat the tent entrance, whilst many dusk figures stood further off, or ranabout shouting the war-cry, or with shouts and blows drove away ourcamels. Among the enemy were many of our friends and attendants: the coastbeing open to them, they naturally ran away, firing a few useless shotsand receiving a modicum of flesh wounds. 

After breaking through the mob at the tent entrance, imagining that I sawthe form of Lieut. Stroyan lying upon the sand, I cut my way towards itamongst a dozen Somal, whose war-clubs worked without mercy, whilst theBalyuz, who was violently pushing me out of the fray, rendered the strokesof my sabre uncertain. This individual was cool and collected: thoughincapacitated by a sore right-thumb from using the spear, he did not shundanger, and passed unhurt through the midst of the enemy: his efforts, however, only illustrated the venerable adage, "defend me from myfriends. " I turned to cut him down: he cried out in alarm; the well-knownvoice caused an instant's hesitation: at that moment a spearman steppedforward, left his javelin in my mouth, and retired before he could bepunished. Escaping as by a miracle, I sought some support: many of ourSomal and servants lurking in the darkness offered to advance, but "tailedoff" to a man as we approached the foe. Presently the Balyuz reappeared, and led me towards the place where he believed my three comrades had takenrefuge. I followed him, sending the only man that showed presence of mind, one Golab of the Yusuf tribe, to bring back the Aynterad craft from theSpit into the centre of the harbour [10]. Again losing the Balyuz in thedarkness, I spent the interval before dawn wandering in search of mycomrades, and lying down when overpowered with faintness and pain: as theday broke, with my remaining strength I reached the head of the creek, wascarried into the vessel, and persuaded the crew to arm themselves andvisit the scene of our disasters. 

Meanwhile, Lieut. Herne, who had closely followed me, fell back, using thebutt-end of his discharged sixshooter upon the hard heads around him: inso doing he came upon a dozen men, who though they loudly vociferated, "Kill the Franks who are killing the Somal!" allowed him to passuninjured. 

He then sought his comrades in the empty huts of the town, and at earlydawn was joined by the Balyuz, who was similarly employed. When day brokehe sent a Negro to stop the native craft, which was apparently sailing outof the harbour, and in due time came on board. With the exception ofsundry stiff blows with the war-club, Lieut. Herne had the fortune toescape unhurt. 

On the other hand, Lieut. Speke's escape was in every way wonderful. Sallying from the tent he levelled his "Dean and Adams" close to anassailant's breast. The pistol refused to revolve. A sharp blow of a war-club upon the chest felled our comrade, who was in the rear and unseen. When he fell, two or three men sprang upon him, pinioned his hands behind, felt him for concealed weapons, --an operation to which he submitted insome alarm, --and led him towards the rear, as he supposed to beslaughtered. There, Lieut. Speke, who could scarcely breathe from the painof the blow, asked a captor to tie his hands before, instead of behind, and begged a drop of water to relieve his excruciating thirst. The savagedefended him against a number of the Somal who came up threatening andbrandishing their spears, he brought a cloth for the wounded man to lieupon, and lost no time in procuring a draught of water. 

Lieut. Speke remained upon the ground till dawn. During the interval hewitnessed the war-dance of the savages--a scene striking in the extreme. The tallest and largest warriors marched in a ring round the tents andbooty, singing, with the deepest and most solemn tones, the song ofthanksgiving. At a little distance the grey uncertain light disclosed fouror five men, lying desperately hurt, whilst their kinsmen kneaded theirlimbs, poured water upon their wounds, and placed lumps of dates in theirstiffening hands. [11] As day broke, the division of plunder caused angrypassions to rise. The dead and dying were abandoned. One party made a rushupon the cattle, and with shouts and yells drove them off towards thewild, some loaded themselves with goods, others fought over pieces ofcloth, which they tore with hand and dagger, whilst the disappointed, vociferating with rage, struck at one another and brandished their spears. More than once during these scenes, a panic seized them; they moved off ina body to some distance; and there is little doubt that had our guardstruck one blow, we might still have won the day. 

Lieut. Speke's captor went to seek his own portion of the spoil, when aSomal came up and asked in Hindostani, what business the Frank had intheir country, and added that he would kill him if a Christian, but sparethe life of a brother Moslem. The wounded man replied that he was going toZanzibar, that he was still a Nazarene, and therefore that the work hadbetter be done at once:--the savage laughed and passed on. He wassucceeded by a second, who, equally compassionate, whirled a sword roundhis head, twice pretended to strike, but returned to the plunder withoutdoing damage. Presently came another manner of assailant. Lieut. Speke, who had extricated his hands, caught the spear levelled at his breast, butreceived at the same moment a blow from a club which, paralyzing his arm, caused him to lose his hold. In defending his heart from a succession ofthrusts, he received severe wounds on the back of his hand, his rightshoulder, and his left thigh. Pausing a little, the wretch crossed to theother side, and suddenly passed his spear clean through the right leg ofthe wounded man: the latter "smelling death, " then leapt up, and takingadvantage of his assailant's terror, rushed headlong towards the sea. Looking behind, he avoided the javelin hurled at his back, and had thegood fortune to run, without further accident, the gauntlet of a score ofmissiles. When pursuit was discontinued, he sat down faint from loss ofblood upon a sandhill. Recovering strength by a few minutes' rest, hestaggered on to the town, where some old women directed him to us. Then, pursuing his way, he fell in with the party sent to seek him, and by theiraid reached the craft, having walked and run at least three miles, afterreceiving eleven wounds, two of which had pierced his thighs. A touchinglesson how difficult it is to kill a man in sound health! [12]

When the three survivors had reached the craft, Yusuf, the captain, armedhis men with muskets and spears, landed them near the camp, andascertained that the enemy, expecting a fresh attack, had fled, carryingaway our cloth, tobacco, swords, and other weapons. [13] The corpse ofLieut. Stroyan was then brought on board. Our lamented comrade was alreadystark and cold. A spear had traversed his heart, another had pierced hisabdomen, and a frightful gash, apparently of a sword, had opened the upperpart of his forehead: the body had been bruised with war-clubs, and thethighs showed marks of violence after death. This was the severestaffliction that befell us. We had lived together like brothers: Lieut. Stroyan was a universal favourite, and his sterling qualities of manlycourage, physical endurance, and steady perseverance had augured for him abright career, thus prematurely cut off. Truly melancholy to us was thecontrast between the evening when he sat with us full of life and spirits, and the morning when we saw amongst us a livid corpse. 

We had hoped to preserve the remains of our friend for interment at Aden. But so rapid were the effects of exposure, that we were compelled mostreluctantly, on the morning of the 20th April, to commit them to the deep, Lieut. Herne reading the funeral service. 

Then with heavy hearts we set sail for the near Arabian shore, and, aftera tedious two days, carried to our friends the news of unexpecteddisaster. 

FOOTNOTES

[1] The Fair-season of 1864-56 began on the 16th November, and may be saidto have broken up on the 15th April. 

The principal caravans which visit Berberah are from Harar the Western, and Ogadayn, the Southern region: they collect the produce of the numerousintermediate tribes of the Somal. The former has been described in thepreceding pages. The following remarks upon the subject of the Ogadayncaravan are the result of Lieuts. Stroyan and Herne's observations atBerberah. 

"Large caravans from Ogadayn descend to the coast at the beginning and theend of the Fair-season. They bring slaves from the Arusa country, cattlein great quantities, gums of sorts, clarified butter, ivory, ostrichfeathers, and rhinoceros horns to be made into handles for weapons. Theseare bartered for coarse cotton cloth of three kinds, for English andAmerican sheeting in pieces of seventy-five, sixty-six, sixty-two, andforty-eight yards, black and indigo-dyed calicos in lengths of sixteenyards, nets or fillets worn by the married women, iron and steel in smallbars, lead and zinc, beads of various kinds, especially white porcelainand speckled glass, dates and rice. "

The Ayyal Ahmed and Ayyal Yunis classes of the Habr Awal Somal haveconstituted themselves Abbans or brokers to the Ogadayn Caravans, and therapacity of the patron has produced a due development of roguery in theclient. The principal trader of this coast is the Banyan from Aden findCutch, facetiously termed by the Somal their "Milch-cows. " The Africancheats by mismeasuring the bad cotton cloth, and the Indian by falselyweighing the coffee, ivory, ostrich feathers and other valuable articleswhich he receives in return. Dollars and even rupees are now preferred tothe double breadth of eight cubits which constitutes the well known"Tobe. "

[2] A Sepoy's tent, pent-house shaped, supported by a single transverseand two upright poles and open at one of the long ends. 

[3] Since returning I have been informed, however, by the celebratedAbyssinian traveller M. Antoine d'Abbadie, that in no part of the wildcountries which he visited was his life so much perilled as at Berberah. 

[4] Lieut. Speke had landed at Karam harbour on the 24th of March, incompany with the Ras, in order to purchase camels. For the Ayyun or bestdescription he paid seven dollars and a half; the Gel Ad (white camels)cost on an average four. In five days he had collected twenty-six, thenumber required, and he then marched overland from Karam to Berberah. 

I had taken the precaution of detaching Lieut. Speke to Karam in livelyremembrance of my detention for want of carriage at Zayla, and inconsequence of a report raised by the Somal of Aden that a sufficientnumber of camels was not procurable at Berberah. This proved false. Lieuts. Stroyan and Herne found no difficulty whatever in purchasinganimals at the moderate price of five dollars and three quarters a head:for the same sum they could have bought any reasonable number. Futuretravellers, however, would do well not to rely solely upon Berberah for asupply of this necessary, especially at seasons when the place is notcrowded with caravans. 

[5] The Elders of the Habr Awal, I have since been informed, falselyasserted that they repeatedly urged us, with warnings of danger, to leaveBerberah at the end of the fair, but that we positively refusedcompliance, for other reasons. The facts of the case are those stated inthe text. 

[6] They prefer travelling during the monsoon, on account of the abundanceof water. 

[7] The framework is allowed to remain for use next Fair-season. 

[8] The attacking party, it appears, was 350 strong; 12 of the Mikahil, 15of the Habr Gerhajis, and the rest Eesa Musa. One Ao Ali wore, it is said, the ostrich feather for the murder of Lieut. Stroyan. 

[9] Mohammed, his Indian servant, stated that rising at my summons he hadrushed to his tent, armed himself with a revolver, and fired six timesupon his assassins. Unhappily, however, Mohammed did not see his masterfall, and as he was foremost amongst the fugitives, scant importanceattaches to his evidence. 

[10] At this season native craft quitting Berberah make for the Spit latein the evening, cast anchor there, and set sail with the land breezebefore dawn. Our lives hung upon a thread. Had the vessel departed, as sheintended, the night before the attack, nothing could have saved us fromdestruction. 

[11] The Somal place dates in the hands of the fallen to ascertain theextent of injury: he who cannot eat that delicacy is justly decided to be_in articulo_. 

[12] In less than a month after receiving such injuries, Lieut. Speke wason his way to England: he has never felt the least inconvenience from thewounds, which closed up like cuts in Indian-rubber. 

[13] They had despised the heavy sacks of grain, the books, broken boxes, injured instruments, and a variety of articles which they did notunderstand. We spent that day at Berberah, bringing off our property, andfiring guns to recall six servants who were missing. They did not appear, having lost no time in starting for Karam and Aynterad, whence they madetheir way in safety to Aden. On the evening of the 19th of April, unableto remove the heavier effects, and anxious to return with the leastpossible delay, I ordered them to be set on fire. 

APPENDIX I. 

DIARY AND OBSERVATIONSMADE BY LIEUTENANT SPEKE, WHEN ATTEMPTING TO REACH THE WADY NOGAL. 

DIARY. 

On the 28th October, 1854, Lieutenant Speke arrived at Kurayat, a smallvillage near Las Kuray (Goree Bunder), in the country called by the Somal"Makhar, " or the eastern maritime region. During the period of threemonths and a half he was enabled to make a short excursion above thecoast-mountains, visiting the Warsingali, the Dulbahanta, and the HabrGerhajis tribes, and penetrating into a region unknown to Europeans. Thebad conduct of his Abban, and the warlike state of the country, preventedhis reaching the "Wady Nogal, " which, under more favourable circumstancesand with more ample leisure than our plans allowed him, he conceives to bea work of little difficulty and no danger. He has brought back with himample notices of the region visited, and has been enabled to make avaluable collection of the Fauna, which have been forwarded to the Curatorof the Royal As. Society's Museum, Calcutta. On the 15th February, 1855, Lieutenant Speke revisited Kurayat, and there embarked for Aden. 

Before proceeding to Lieutenant Speke's Journal, it may be useful to givea brief and general account of the region explored. 

The portion of the Somali country visited by Lieutenant Speke may bedivided into a Maritime Plain, a Range of Mountains, and an elevatedPlateau. 

The Maritime Plain, at the points visited by Lieutenant Speke, is a sandytract overlying limestone, level to the foot of the hills, and varyingfrom half a mile to two miles in breadth. Water is not everywhereprocurable. At the village of Las Kuray, there is an old and well builtwell, about twelve feet deep, producing an abundant and excellent supply. It appears that the people have no implements, and are too barbarous to becapable of so simple an engineering operation as digging. The vegetationpresents the usual appearance of salsolaceous plants thinly scattered overthe surface, with here and there a stunted growth of Arman or Acacia. Thewatershed is of course from south to north, and the rain from the hills iscarried off by a number of Fiumaras or freshets, with broad shallow beds, denoting that much of the monsoon rain falling in the mountains is thereabsorbed, and that little finds its way to the sea. At this season (thedry weather) the plain is thinly inhabited; there are no villages excepton the sea-shore, and even these were found by the traveller almostentirely deserted, mostly women occupying the houses, whilst the men wereabsent, trading and tending cattle in the hills. The harbours are, generally speaking, open and shallow road-steads, where ships find noprotection; there is, however, one place (Las Galwayta), where, it issaid, deep water extends to the shore. 

Meteorological observations show a moderate temperature, clear air, and aregular north-easterly wind. It is probable that, unlike the BerberahPlain, the monsoon rain here falls in considerable quantities. This landbelongs in part to the Warsingali. Westwards of Las Galwayta, which is thefrontier, the Habr Gerhajis lay claim to the coast. The two tribes, asusual in that unhappy land, are on terms of "Dam" or blood-feud; yet theyintermarry. 

The animals observed were, the Waraba, a dark-coloured cynhyena, with atail partly white, a grey jackal, and three different kinds of antelopes. Besides gulls, butcher birds, and a description of sparrow, no birds werefound on the Maritime Plain. 

The Range of Mountains is that long line which fringes the Somali coastfrom Tajurrah to Ras Jerd Hafun (Cape Guardafui). In the portion visitedby Lieutenant Speke it is composed principally of limestones, some white, others brownish, and full of fossil shells. The seaward face is a gradualslope, yet as usual more abrupt than the landward side, especially in theupper regions. Steep irregular ravines divide the several masses of hill. The range was thinly covered with Acacia scrub in the lower folds. Theupper portion was thickly clad with acacia and other thorns, and upon thesummit, the Somali pine tree observed by me near Harar, and by LieutenantHerne at Gulays, first appeared. Rain had freshly fallen. 

The animal creation was represented by the leopard, hyena, rhinoceros, Waraba, four kinds of antelopes, hares and rats, tailless and long-tailed. It is poor in sea birds (specimens of those collected have been forwardedto the As. Society's Museum), and but one description of snake wasobserved. These hills belong partly to the Warsingali, and partly to theHabr Gerhajis. The frontier is in some places denoted by piles of roughstones. As usual, violations of territorial right form the rule, not theexception, and trespass is sure to be followed by a "war. " The meteorologyof these hills is peculiar. The temperature appears to be but little lowerthan the plain: the wind was north-easterly; and both monsoons bring heavyrains. 

At Yafir, on the summit of the hill, Lieutenant Speke's thermometer showedan altitude of about 7500 feet. The people of the country do not know whatice means. Water is very scarce in these hills, except during the monsoon:it is found in springs which are far apart; and in the lower slopescollected rain water is the sole resource. This scarcity renders thehabits of the people peculiarly filthy. 

After descending about 2000 feet from the crest of the mountains to thesouthern fall, Lieutenant Speke entered upon the platform which forms thecountry of the Eastern Somal. He is persuaded that the watershed of thisextensive tract is from N. W. To S. E. , contrary to the opinion ofLieutenant Cruttenden, who, from information derived from the Somal, determined the slope to be due south. "Nogal" appears, according toLieutenant Speke, to be the name of a tract of land occupied by theWarsingali, the Mijjarthayn, and the northern clan of the Dulbahantas, asBohodlay in Haud is inhabited by the southern. Nogal is a sterile table-land, here and there thinly grown with thorns, perfectly useless foragriculture, and, unless it possess some mineral wealth, valueless. Thesoil is white and stony, whereas Haud or Ogadayn is a deep red, and isdescribed as having some extensive jungles. Between the two lies a largewatercourse, called "Tuk Der, " or the Long River. It is dry during thecold season, but during the rains forms a flood, tending towards theEastern Ocean. This probably is the line which in our maps is put down as"Wady Nogal, a very fertile and beautiful valley. "

The surface of the plateau is about 4100 feet above the level of the sea:it is a space of rolling ground, stony and white with broken limestone. Water is found in pools, and in widely scattered springs: it is veryscarce, and in a district near and south of the hills Lieutenant Speke wasstopped by want of this necessary. The climate appeared to our travellerdelightful In some places the glass fell at 6 A. M. To 25°, yet at noon onthe same day the mercury rose to 76°. The wind was always N. E. , sometimesgentle, and occasionally blowing strongly but without dust. The rainymonsoon must break here with violence, and the heat be fearful in the hotseason. The principal vegetation of this plateau was Acacia, scarce andstunted; in some places under the hills and in the watercourses thesetrees are numerous and well grown. On the other hand, extensive tractstowards the south are almost barren. The natives speak of Malmal (myrrh)and the Luban (incense) trees. The wild animals are principally antelopes;there are also ostriches, onagers, Waraba, lions (reported to exist), jackals, and vermin. The bustard and florikan appear here. The Nomadspossess large flocks of sheep, the camels, cows, and goats being chieflyfound at this season on the seaward side of the hills, where forage isprocurable. The horses were stunted tattoos, tolerably well-bred, but softfor want of proper food. It is said that the country abounds in horses, but Lieutenant Speke "doubts the fact. " The eastern portion of the plateauvisited by our traveller belongs to the Warsingali, the western to theDulbahantas: the former tribe extends to the S. E. , whilst the latterpossess the lands lying about the Tuk Der, the Nogal, and Haud. These twotribes are at present on bad terms, owing to a murder which led to abattle: the quarrel has been allowed to rest till lately, when it wasrevived at a fitting opportunity. But there is no hostility between theSouthern Dulbahantas and the Warsingali, on the old principle that "anenemy's enemy is a friend. "

On the 21st October, 1854, Lieutenant Speke, from the effects of a stiffeasterly wind and a heavy sea, made by mistake the harbour of Rakudah. This place has been occupied by the Rer Dud, descendants of Sambur, son ofIshak. It is said to consist of an small fort, and two or three huts ofmatting, lately re-erected. About two years ago the settlement was laidwaste by the rightful owners of the soil, the Musa Abokr, a sub-family ofthe Habr Tal Jailah. 

_22nd October_. --Without landing, Lieutenant Speke coasted along to BunderHais, where he went on shore. Hais is a harbour belonging to the MusaAbokr. It contains a "fort, " a single-storied, flat-roofed, stone and mudhouse, about 20 feet square, one of those artless constructions to whichonly Somal could attach importance. There are neither muskets nor cannonamong the braves of Hais. The "town" consists of half a dozen mud huts, mostly skeletons. The anchoring ground is shallow, but partly protected bya spur of hill, and the sea abounds in fish. Four Buggaloes (native craft)were anchored here, waiting for a cargo of Dumbah sheep and clarifiedbutter, the staple produce of the place. Hais exports to Aden, Mocha, andother parts of Arabia; it also manufactures mats, with the leaves of theDaum palm and other trees. Lieutenant Speke was well received by one Ali, the Agil, or petty chief of the place: he presented two sheep to thetraveller. On the way from Bunder Jedid to Las Kuray, Lieutenant Spekeremarks that Las Galwayta would be a favourable site for a Somalisettlement. The water is deep even close to the shore, and there is aneasy ascent from it to the summit of the mountains. The consequence isthat it is coveted by the Warsingali, who are opposed by the presentproprietors, the Habr Gerhajis. The Sultan of the former family resistsany settlement for fear of dividing and weakening their force; it is toofar from their pastures, and they have not men enough for both purposes. 

_28th October_. --Lieutenant Speke landed at Kurayat, near Las Kuray, andsent a messenger to summon the chief, Mohammed Ali, Gerad or Prince of theWarsingali tribe. 

During a halt of twenty-one days, the traveller had an opportunity ofbeing initiated into the mysteries of Somali medicine and money hiding. The people have but two cures for disease, one the actual cautery, theother a purgative, by means of melted sheep's-tail, followed by such adraught of camel's milk that the stomach, having escaped the danger ofbursting, is suddenly and completely relieved. It is here the custom ofthe wealthy to bury their hoards, and to reveal the secret only when atthe point of death. Lieutenant Speke went to a place where it is said arich man had deposited a considerable sum, and described his "cache" asbeing "on a path in a direct line between two trees as far as the arms canreach with a stick. " The hoarder died between forty and fifty years ago, and his children have been prevented by the rocky nature of the ground, and their forgetting to ask which was the right side of the tree, fromsucceeding in anything beyond turning up the stones. 

Las Kuray is an open roadstead for native craft. The town is consideredone of the principal strongholds of the coast. There are three large andsix small "forts, " similar in construction to those of Hais; all areoccupied by merchants, and are said to belong to the Sultan. The mass ofhuts may be between twenty and thirty in number. They are mattedbuildings, long and flat-roofed; half a dozen families inhabit the samehouse, which is portioned off for such accommodation. Public buildingsthere are none, and no wall protects the place. It is in the territory ofthe Warsingali, and owns the rule of the Gerad or Prince, who sometimeslives here, and at other times inhabits the Jungle. Las Kuray exportsgums, Dumbah sheep, and guano, the latter considered valuable, and sent toMakalla in Arabia, to manure the date plantations. 

Four miles westward of Las Kuray is Kurayat, also called Little Kuray. Itresembles the other settlement, and is not worth description. LieutenantSpeke here occupied a fort or stone house belong to his Abban; finding thepeople very suspicious, he did not enter Las Kuray for prudential motives. There the Sultan has no habitation; when he visited the place he lodged inthe house of a Nacoda or ship-captain. 

Lieutenant Speke was delayed at Kurayat by the pretext of want of cattle;in reality to be plundered. The Sultan, who inhabits the Jungle, did notmake his appearance till repeatedly summoned. About the tenth day the oldman arrived on foot, attended by a dozen followers; he was carefullyplaced in the centre of a double line bristling with spears, and marchedpast to his own fort. Lieutenant Speke posted his servants with orders tofire a salute of small firearms. The consequence was that the evening wasspent in prayers. 

During Lieutenant Speke's first visit to the Sultan, who received himsquatting on the ground outside the house in which he lodged, with hisguards about him, the dignitary showed great trepidation, but returnedsalams with politeness. < He is described as a fine-looking man, betweenforty-eight and fifty years of age; he was dressed in an old and dirtyTobe, had no turban, and appeared unarmed. He had consulted the claims of"dignity" by keeping the traveller waiting ten days whilst he journeyedtwenty miles. Before showing himself he had privily held a Durbar at LasKuray; it was attended by the Agils of the tribe, by Mohammed Samattar(Lieutenant Speke's Abban), and the people generally. Here the questionwas debated whether the traveller was to be permitted to see the country. The voice of the multitude was as usual _contra_, fearing to admit a wolfinto the fold. It was silenced however by the Sultan, who thought fit tofavour the English, and by the Abban, who settled the question, sayingthat he, as the Sultan's subject, was answerable for all that mighthappen, and that the chief might believe him or not;--"how could suchJungle-folk know anything?"

On the morning of the 8th November the Sultan returned Lieutenant Speke'svisit. The traveller took the occasion of "opening his desire to visit theWarsingali country and the lands on the road to Berberah, keeping inlandabout 200 miles, more or less according to circumstances, and passingthrough the Dulbahantas. " To this the Sultan replied, that "as far as hisdominions extended the traveller was perfectly at liberty to go where heliked; but as for visiting the Dulbahantas, he could not hear of orcountenance it. " Mahmud Ali, Gerad or Prince of the southern Dulbahantas, was too far away for communication, and Mohammed Ali Gerad, the nearestchief, had only ruled seven or eight years; his power therefore was notgreat. Moreover, these two were at war; the former having captured, it issaid, 2000 horses, 400 camels, and a great number of goats and sheep, besides wounding a man. During the visit, which lasted from 8 A. M. To 2P. M. , the Sultan refused nothing but permission to cross the frontier, fearing, he said, lest an accident should embroil him with our Government. Lieutenant Speke gave them to understand that he visited their country, not as a servant of the Company, but merely as a traveller wishing to seesport. This of course raised a laugh; it was completely beyond theircomprehension. They assured him, however, that he had nothing to apprehendin the Warsingali country, where the Sultan's order was like that of theEnglish. The Abban then dismissed the Sultan to Las Kuray, fearing theappetites of his followers; and the guard, on departure, demanded a clotheach by way of honorarium. This was duly refused, and they departed indiscontent. The people frequently alluded to two grand grievances. In thefirst place they complained of an interference on the part of ourGovernment, in consequence of a quarrel which took place seven years agoat Aden, between them and the Habr Tal Jailah tribe of Karam. ThePolitical Resident, it is said, seized three vessels belonging to theWarsingali, who had captured one of the ships belonging to their enemies;the former had command of the sea, but since that event they have beenreduced to a secondary rank. This grievance appears to be based on solidgrounds. Secondly, they complained of the corruption of their brethren byintercourse with a civilised people, especially by visiting Aden: theremedy for this evil lies in their own hands, but desire of gain woulddoubtless defeat any moral sanitary measure which their Elders coulddevise. They instanced the state of depravity into which the Somal aboutBerberah had fallen, and prided themselves highly upon their respect forthe rights of _meum_ and _tuum_, so completely disregarded by the WesternStates. But this virtue may arise from the severity of theirchastisements; mutilation of the hand being the usual award to theft. Moreover Lieutenant Speke's Journal does not impress the reader highlywith their honesty. And lastly, I have found the Habr Awal at Berberah, onthe whole, a more respectable race than the Warsingali. 

Lieutenant Speke's delay at Kurayat was caused by want of carriage. Hejustly remarks that "every one in this country appeals to precedent"; thetraveller, therefore, should carefully ascertain the price of everything, and adhere to it, as those who follow him twenty years afterwards will becharged the same. One of the principal obstacles to Lieutenant Speke'sprogress was the large sum given to the natives by an officer who visitedthis coast some years ago. Future travellers should send before them atrusty Warsingali to the Sultan, with a letter specifying the necessaryarrangements, a measure which would save trouble and annoyance to bothparties. 

On the 10th of November the Sultan came early to Lieutenant Speke's house. He received a present of cloth worth about forty rupees. After comparinghis forearm with every other man's and ascertaining the mean, he measuredand re-measured each piece, an operation which lasted several hours. Aflint gun was presented to him, evidently the first he had ever handled;he could scarcely bring it up to his shoulder, and persisted in shuttingthe wrong eye. Then he began as usual to beg for more cloth, powder, andlead. By his assistance Lieutenant Speke bought eight camels, inferioranimals, at rather a high price, from 10 to 16-1/2 cloths (equivalent todollars) per head. It is the custom for the Sultan, or in his absence, foran Agil to receive a tithe of the price; and it is his part to see thatthe traveller is not overcharged. He appears to have discharged his dutyvery inefficiently, a dollar a day being charged for the hire of a singledonkey. Lieutenant Speke regrets that he did not bring dollars or rupees, cloth on the coast being now at a discount. 

After the usual troubles and vexations of a first move in Africa, on the16th of November, 1854, Lieutenant Speke marched about three miles alongthe coast, and pitched at a well close to Las Kuray. He was obliged toleave about a quarter of his baggage behind, finding it impossible withhis means to hire donkeys, the best conveyance across the mountains, wherecamels must be very lightly laden. The Sultan could not change, he said, the route settled by a former Sahib. He appears, though famed for honestyand justice, to have taken a partial view of Lieutenant Speke's property. When the traveller complained of his Abban, the reply was, "This is thecustom of the country, I can see no fault; all you bring is the Abban's, and he can do what he likes with it. "

The next day was passed unpleasantly enough in the open air, to force amarch, and the Sultan and his party stuck to the date-bag, demanding to befed as servants till rations were served out to them. 

_18th November_. --About 2 A. M. The camels (eleven in number) were lightlyloaded, portions of the luggage being sent back to Kurayat till morecarriage could be procured. The caravan crossed the plain southwards, andafter about two miles' march entered a deep stony watercourse windingthrough the barren hills. After five miles' progress over rough ground, Lieutenant Speke unloaded under a tree early in the afternoon near somepools of sweet rain water collected in natural basins of limestone dottingthe watercourse. The place is called Iskodubuk; the name of thewatercourse is Duktura. The Sultan and the Abban were both left behind toescort the baggage from Las Kuray to Kurayat. They promised to rejoinLieutenant Speke before nightfall; the former appeared after five, thelatter after ten, days. The Sultan sent his son Abdallah, a youth of aboutfifteen years old, who proved so troublesome that Lieutenant Speke wasforced repeatedly to dismiss him: still the lad would not leave thecaravan till it reached the Dulbahanta frontier. And the Abban delayed aNegro servant, Lieutenant Speke's gun-bearer, trying by many offers andpromises to seduce him from service. 

_19th November_. --At dawn the camels were brought in; they had beenfeeding at large all night, which proves the safety of the country. Afterthree hours' work at loading, the caravan started up the watercourse. Theroad was rugged; at times the watercourse was blocked up with boulders, which compelled the travellers temporarily to leave it. With a littlecutting away of projecting rocks, which are of soft stone, the road mightbe made tolerably easy. Scattered and stunted Acacias, fringed with freshgreen foliage, relieved the eye; all else was barren rock. After marchingabout two miles the traveller was obliged to halt by the Sultan; amessenger arrived with the order. The halting-place is called Damalay. Itis in the bed of the watercourse, stagnating rain, foul-looking but sweet, lying close by. As in all other parts of this Fiumara, the bed was dottedwith a bright green tree, sometimes four feet high, resembling a willow. Lieutenant Speke spread his mat in the shade, and spent the rest of theday at his diary and in conversation with the natives. 

The next day was also spent at Damalay. The interpreter, Mohammed Ahmed, aSomali of the Warsingali tribe, and all the people, refused positively toadvance. Lieutenant Speke started on foot to Las Kuray in search of theAbban: he was followed at some distance by the Somal, and the whole partyreturned on hearing a report that the chief and the Abban were on the way. The traveller seems on this occasion to have formed a very low estimate ofthe people. He stopped their food until they promised to start the nextday. 

_21st November_. --The caravan marched at gun-fire, and, after a mile, leftthe watercourse, and ascended by a rough camel-path a buttress of hillleading to the ridge of the mountains. The ascent was not steep, but thecamels were so bad that they could scarcely be induced to advance. Thecountry was of a more pleasant aspect, a shower of rain having latelyfallen. At this height the trees grow thicker and finer, the stones arehidden by grass and heather, and the air becomes somewhat cooler. After asix miles' march Lieutenant Speke encamped at a place called Adhai. Sweetwater was found within a mile's walk;--the first spring from which ourtraveller drank. Here he pitched a tent. 

At Adhai Lieutenant Speke was detained nine days by the non-appearance ofhis "Protector" and the refusal of his followers to march without him. Thecamels were sent back with the greatest difficulty to fetch the portion ofthe baggage left behind. On the 24th Lieutenant Speke sent his Hindostaniservant to Las Kuray, with orders to bring up the baggage. "Imam" startedalone and on foot, not being permitted to ride a pony hired by thetraveller: he reported that there is a much better road for laden camelsfrom the coast to the crest of the hills. Though unprotected, he met withno difficulty, and returned two days afterwards, having seen the baggage_en route_. During Lieutenant Speke's detention, the Somal battened on hisprovisions, seeing that his two servants were absent, and that no oneguarded the bags. Half the rice had been changed at Las Kuray for aninferior description. The camel drivers refused their rations because alltheir friends (thirty in number) were not fed. The Sultan's son taughtthem to win the day by emptying and hiding the water-skins, by threateningto kill the servants if they fetched water, and by refusing to do work. During the discussion, which appears to have been lively, the eldest ofthe Sultan's four sons, Mohammed Aul, appeared from Las Kuray. He seems tohave taken a friendly part, stopped the discussion, and sent away theyoung prince as a nuisance. Unfortunately, however, the latter reappearedimmediately that the date bags were opened, and Mohammed Aul stayed onlytwo days in Lieutenant Speke's neighbourhood. On the 28th November theAbban appeared. The Sultan then forced upon Lieutenant Speke his brotherHasan as a second Abban, although this proceeding is contrary to thecustom of the country. The new burden, however, after vain attempts atextortion, soon disappeared, carrying away with him a gun. 

For tanning water-skins the Somal here always use, when they can procureit, a rugged bark with a smooth epidermis of a reddish tinge, a pleasantaromatic odour, and a strong astringent flavour. They call it Mohur:powdered and sprinkled dry on a wound, it acts as a styptic. Here wasobserved an aloe-formed plant, with a strong and woody thorn on the top. It is called Haskul or Hig; the fibres are beaten out with sticks orstones, rotted in water, and then made into cord. In other parts the youngbark of the acacia is used; it is first charred on one side, then reducedto fibre by mastication, and lastly twisted into the semblance of a rope. 

From a little manuscript belonging to the Abban, Lieutenant Speke learnedthat about 440 years ago (A. D. 1413), one Darud bin Ismail, unable to livewith his elder brother at Mecca, fled with a few followers to theseshores. In those days the land was ruled, they say, by a Christian chiefcalled Kin, whose Wazir, Wharrah, was the terror of all men. Darudcollected around him, probably by proselytising, a strong party: hegradually increased his power, and ended by expelling the owners of thecountry, who fled to the N. W. As far as Abyssinia. Darud, by an Asyridamsel, had a son called Kabl Ullah, whose son Harti had, as progeny, Warsingali, Dulbahanta, and Mijjarthayn. These three divided the countryinto as many portions, which, though great territorial changes have takenplace, to this day bear their respective owners' names. 

Of this I have to observe, that universal tradition represents the Somalto be a people of half-caste origin, African and Arabian; moreover, thatthey expelled the Gallas from the coast, until the latter took refuge inthe hills of Harar. The Gallas are a people partly Moslem, partlyChristian, and partly Pagan; this may account for the tradition aboverecorded. Most Somal, however, declare "Darud" to be a man of ignobleorigin, and do not derive him from the Holy City. Some declare he wasdriven from Arabia for theft. Of course each tribe exaggerates its ownnobility with as reckless a defiance of truth as their neighboursdepreciate it. But I have made a rule always to doubt what semi-barbarianswrite. Writing is the great source of historical confusion, becausefalsehoods accumulate in books, persons are confounded, and fictionsassume, as in the mythologic genealogies of India, Persia, Greece, andRome, a regular and systematic form. On the other hand, oral tradition ismore trustworthy; witness the annals and genealogies preserved in verse bythe Bhats of Cutch, the Arab Nassab, and the Bards of Belochistan. 

_30th November_. --The Sultan took leave of Lieutenant Speke, and thelatter prepared to march in company with the Abban, the interpreter, theSultan's two sons, and a large party. By throwing the tent down andsitting in the sun he managed to effect a move. In the evening the camelsstarted from Adhai up a gradual ascent along a strong path. The way wascovered with bush, jungle, and trees. The frankincense, it is said, abounded; gum trees of various kinds were found; and the travellerremarked a single stunted sycamore growing out of a rock. I found the treein all the upper regions of the Somali country, and abundant in the HararHills. After two miles' march the caravan halted at Habal Ishawalay, onthe northern side of the mountains, within three miles of the crest. Thehalting-ground was tolerably level, and not distant from the waters ofAdhai, the only spring in the vicinity. The travellers slept in a desertedKraal, surrounded by a stout fence of Acacia thorns heaped up to keep outthe leopards and hyenas. During the heat Lieutenant Speke sat under atree. Here he remained three days; the first in order to bring up part ofhis baggage which had been left behind; the second to send on a portion tothe next halting-place; and the third in consequence of the Abban'sresolution to procure Ghee or clarified butter. The Sultan could notresist the opportunity of extorting something by a final visit--for agoat, killed and eaten by the camel-drivers contrary to Lieutenant Speke'sorders, a dollar was demanded. 

_4th December_, 1854. --About dawn the caravan was loaded, and thenproceeded along a tolerably level pathway through a thick growth of thorntrees towards a bluff hill. The steep was reached about 9 A. M. , and thecamels toiled up the ascent by a stony way, dropping their loads for wantof ropes, and stumbling on their road. The summit, about 500 yardsdistant, was reached in an hour. At Yafir, on the crest of the mountains, the caravan halted two hours for refreshment. Lieutenant Speke describesthe spot in the enthusiastic language of all travellers who have visitedthe Seaward Range of the Somali Hills. It appears, however, that it isdestitute of water. About noon the camels were again loaded, and thecaravan proceeded across the mountains by a winding road over level groundfor four miles. This point commanded an extensive view of the SouthernPlateau. In that direction the mountains drop in steps or terraces, andare almost bare; as in other parts rough and flat topped piles of stones, reminding the traveller of the Tartar Cairns, were observed. I remarkedthe same in the Northern Somali country; and in both places the peoplegave a similar account of them, namely, that they are the work of anearlier race, probably the Gallas. Some of them are certainly tombs, forhuman bones are turned up; in others empty chambers are discovered; and ina few are found earthern and large copper pots. Lieutenant Speke on oneoccasion saw an excavated mound propped up inside by pieces of timber, andapparently built without inlet. It was opened about six years ago by aWarsingali, in order to bury his wife, when a bar of metal (afterwardsproved by an Arab to be gold) and a gold ring, similar to what is worn bywomen in the nose, were discovered. In other places the natives find, itis said, women's bracelets, beads, and similar articles still used by theGallas. 

After nightfall the caravan arrived at Mukur, a halting-place in thesouthern declivity of the hills. Here Lieutenant Speke remarked that thelarge watercourse in which he halted becomes a torrent during the rains, carrying off the drainage towards the eastern coast. He had marched thatday seventeen miles, when the party made a Kraal with a few bushes. Waterwas found within a mile in a rocky basin; it was fetid and full ofanimalculae. Here appeared an old woman driving sheep and goats into LasKuray, a circumstance which shows that the country is by no meansdangerous. 

After one day's halt at Mukur to refresh the camels, on the 6th DecemberLieutenant Speke started at about 10 A. M. Across the last spur of thehills, and presently entered a depression dividing the hills from thePlateau. Here the country was stony and white-coloured, with watercoursesfull of rounded stones. The Jujube and Acacias were here observed to be ona large scale, especially in the lowest ground. After five miles thetraveller halted at a shallow watercourse, and at about half a miledistant found sweet but dirty water in a deep hole in the rock. The nameof this station was Karrah. 

_8th December_. --Early in the morning the caravan moved on to Rhat, adistance of eight miles: it arrived at about noon. The road lay throughthe depression at the foot of the hills. In the patches of heatherFlorikan was found. The Jujube-tree was very large. In the rains thiscountry is a grassy belt, running from west to east, along a deep andnarrow watercourse, called Rhat Tug, or the Fiumara of Rhat, which flowseastward towards the ocean. At this season, having been "eaten up, " theland was almost entirely deserted; the Kraals lay desolate, the herdsmenhad driven off their cows to the hills, and the horses had been senttowards the Mijjarthayn country. A few camels and donkeys were seen:considering that their breeding is left to chance, the blood is notcontemptible. The sheep and goats are small, and their coats, as usual inthese hot countries, remain short. Lieutenant Speke was informed that, owing to want of rain, and it being the breeding season, the inland andNomad Warsingali live entirely on flesh, one meal serving for three days. This was a sad change of affairs from what took place six weeks before thetraveller's arrival, when there had been a fall of rain, and the peoplespent their time revelling on milk, and sleeping all day under the shadeof the trees--the Somali idea of perfect happiness. 

On the 9th December Lieutenant Speke, halting at Rhat, visited one of"Kin's" cities, now ruined by time, and changed by the Somal havingconverted it into a cemetery. The remains were of stone and mud, as usualin this part of the world. The houses are built in an economical manner;one straight wall, nearly 30 feet long, runs down the centre, and issupported by a number of lateral chambers facing opposite ways, _e. G. _

[2 Illustrations]

This appears to compose the village, and suggests a convent or amonastery. To the west, and about fifty yards distant, are ruins of stoneand good white mortar, probably procured by burning the limestone rock. The annexed ground plan will give an idea of these interesting remains, which are said to be those of a Christian house of worship. In some partsthe walls are still 10 feet high, and they show an extent of civilisationnow completely beyond the Warsingali. It may be remarked of them that thedirection of the niche, as well as the disposition of the building, woulddenote a Moslem mosque. At the same time it must be remembered that thechurches of the Eastern Christians are almost always made to frontJerusalem, and the Gallas being a Moslem and Christian race, the sectswould borrow their architecture from each other. The people assert theseruins to be those of Nazarenes. Yet in the Jid Ali valley of theDulbahantas Lieutenant Speke found similar remains, which the nativesdeclared to be one of their forefathers' mosques; the plan and thedirection were the same as those now described. Nothing, however, iseasier than to convert St. Sophia into the Aya Sufiyyah mosque. Moreover, at Jid Ali, the traveller found it still the custom of the people to erecta Mala, or cross of stone or wood covered with plaster, at the head andfoot of every tomb. 

[Illustration]

The Dulbahantas, when asked about these crosses, said it was their custom, derived from sire and grandsire. This again would argue that a Christianpeople once inhabited these now benighted lands. 

North of the building now described is a cemetery, in which the Somalstill bury their dead. Here Lieutenant Speke also observed crosses, but hewas prevented by the superstition of the people from examining them. 

On an eminence S. W. Of, and about seventy yards from the main building, are the isolated remains of another erection, said by the people to be afort. The foundation is level with the ground, and shows two compartmentsopening into each other. 

[Illustration]

Rhat was the most southerly point reached by Lieutenant Speke. He placesit about thirty miles distant from the coast, and at the entrance of theGreat Plateau. Here he was obliged to turn westward, because at thatseason of the year the country to the southward is desolate for want ofrain--a warning to future visitors. During the monsoon this part of theland is preferred by the people: grass grows, and there would be noobstacle to travellers. 

Before quitting Rhat, the Abban and the interpreter went to the length ofordering Lieutenant Speke not to fire a gun. This detained him a wholeday. 

_11th December_. --Early in the morning, Lieutenant Speke started in awesterly direction, still within sight of the mountains, where notobstructed by the inequalities of the ground. The line taken was over anelevated flat, in places covered with the roots of parched up grass; hereit was barren, and there appeared a few Acacias. The view to the south wasshortened by rolling ground: hollow basins, sometimes fifteen miles broad, succeed each other; each sends forth from its centre a watercourse todrain off the water eastward. The face of the country, however, is veryirregular, and consequently description is imperfect. This day ostrichesand antelopes were observed in considerable numbers. After marching tenmiles the caravan halted at Barham, where they found a spring of clear andbrackish water from the limestone rock, and flowing about 600 yards down adeep rocky channel, in parts lined with fine Acacias. A Kraal was foundhere, and the traveller passed a comfortable night. 

_12th December_. --About 9 A. M. The caravan started, and threaded a valley, which, if blessed with a fair supply of water, would be very fertile. Whilst everything else is burned up by the sun on the high ground, anutritious weed, called Buskallay, fattens the sheep and goats. Wherever, therefore, a spring is found, men flock to the place and fence themselvesin a Kraal. About half-way the travellers reached Darud bin Ismail's tomb, a parallelogram of loose stones about one foot high, of a battered andignoble appearance; at one extremity stood a large sloping stone, with alittle mortar still clinging to it. No outer fence surrounded the tomb, which might easily be passed by unnoticed: no honors were paid to thememory of the first founder of the tribe, and the Somal did not evenrecite a Fatihah over his dust. After marching about twelve miles, thecaravan encamped at Labbahdilay, in the bed of a little watercourse whichruns into the Yubbay Tug. Here they found a small pool of bad rain water. They made a rude fence to keep out the wild beasts, and in it passed thenight. 

_13th December_. --The Somal showed superior activity in marching threesuccessive days; the reason appears to be that the Abban was progressingtowards his home. At sunrise the camels were loaded, and at 8 A. M. Thecaravan started up a valley along the left bank of a watercourse calledthe Yubbay Tug. This was out of the line, but the depth of theperpendicular sides prevented any attempt at crossing it. The people ofthe country have made a peculiar use of this feature of ground. During thelast war, ten or eleven years ago, between the Warsingali and theDulbahantas, the latter sent a large foraging party over the frontier. TheWarsingali stationed a strong force at the head of the watercourse toprevent its being turned, and exposed their flocks and herds on theeastern bank to tantalise the hungry enemy. The Dulbahantas, unable tocross the chasm, and unwilling, like all Somali heroes even in theirwrath, to come to blows with the foe, retired in huge disgust. Aftermarching five miles, the caravan halted, the Abban declaring that he andthe Sultan's younger son must go forward to feel the way; in other words, to visit his home. His pretext was a good one. In countries where postalarrangements do not exist, intelligence flies quicker than on the wings ofpaper. Many evil rumours had preceded Lieutenant Speke, and the inlandtribe professed, it was reported, to despise a people who can onlythreaten the coast. The Dulbahantas had been quarrelling amongstthemselves for the last thirteen years, and were now determined to settlethe dispute by a battle. Formerly they were all under one head; but oneAli Harram, an Akil or minor chief, determined to make his son, MohammedAli, Gerad or Prince of the clans inhabiting the northern provinces. Afterfive years' intrigue the son was proclaimed, and carried on the warscaused by his father, declaring an intention to fight to the last. He has, however, been successfully opposed by Mahmud Ali, the rightful chief ofthe Dulbahanta family; the southern clans of Haud and beyond the Nogalbeing more numerous and more powerful than the northern divisions. Nomerchant, Arab or other, thinks of penetrating into this country, principally on account of the expense. Lieutenant Speke is of opinion thathis cloth and rice would easily have stopped the war for a time: theDulbahantas threatened and blustered, but allowed themselves easily to bepacified. 

It is illustrative of the customs of this people that, when theDulbahantas had their hands engaged, and left their rear unprotected, under the impression that no enemies were behind, the Warsingali instantlyremembered that one of their number had been murdered by the other racemany years ago. The blood-money had been paid, and peace had beenconcluded, but the opportunity was too tempting to be resisted. 

The Yubbay Tug watercourse begins abruptly, being as broad and deep at thehead as it is in the trunk. When Lieutenant Speke visited it, it was dry;there was but a thin growth of trees in it, showing that water does notlong remain there. Immediately north of it lies a woody belt, running upto the foot of the mountains, and there bifurcating along the base. Southwards, the Yubbay is said to extend to a considerable distance, butSomali ideas of distance are peculiar, and absorption is a powerful agentin these latitudes. 

Till the 21st December Lieutenant Speke was delayed at the Yubbay Tug. Hisropes had been stolen by discharged camel-men, and he was unable toreplace them. 

On the 15th December one of the Midgan or Serviles was tried for stealingvenison from one of his fellows. The Sultan, before his departure, hadcommissioned three of Lieutenant Speke's attendants to act as judges incase of such emergency: on this occasion the interpreter was on theWoolsack, and he sensibly fined the criminal two sheep to be eaten on theroad. From inquiries, I have no doubt that these Midgan are actuallyreduced by famine at times to live on a food which human nature abhors. Inthe northern part of the Somali country I never heard of cannibalism, although the Servile tribes will eat birds and other articles of fooddisdained by Somal of gentle blood. Lieutenant Speke complains of thescarcity and the quality of the water, "which resembles the mixturecommonly known as black draught. " Yet it appears not to injure health; andthe only disease found endemic is an ophthalmia, said to returnperiodically every three years. The animals have learned to use sparinglywhat elsewhere is a daily necessary; camels are watered twice a month, sheep thrice, and horses every two or three days. No wild beasts or birds, except the rock pigeon and duck, ever drink except when rain falls. 

The pickaxe and spade belonging to the traveller were greatly desired; inone place water was found, but more generally the people preferred diggingfor honey in the rocks. Of the inhabitants we find it recorded that, likeall Nomads, they are idle to the last degree, contenting themselves withtanned skins for dress and miserable huts for lodging. Changing ground forthe flocks and herds is a work of little trouble; one camel and a donkeycarry all the goods and chattels, including water, wife, and baby. Milk inall stages (but never polluted by fire), wild honey, and flesh, are theironly diet; some old men have never tasted grain. Armed with spear andshield, they are in perpetual dread of an attack. It is not strange thatunder such circumstances the population should be thin and scattered; theytalk of thousands going to war, but the wary traveller suspects grossexaggeration. They preserve the abominable Galla practice of murderingpregnant women in hopes of mutilating a male foetus. 

On the 20th December Lieutenant Speke was informed by the Sultan's sonthat the Dulbahantas would not permit him to enter their country. As afavour, however, they would allow him to pass towards the home of theAbban, who, having married a Dulbahanta girl was naturalised amongst them. 

_21st December_. --Early in the morning Lieutenant Speke, accompanied bythe interpreter, the Sultan's son, one servant, and two or three men tolead a pair of camels, started eastward. The rest of the animals (nine innumber) were left behind in charge of Imam, a Hindostani boy, and six orseven men under him, The reason for this step was that Husayn Haji, anAgil of the Dulbahantas and a connection of the Abban, demanded, as solecondition for permitting Lieutenant Speke to visit "Jid Ali, " that thetraveller should give up all his property. Before leaving the valley, heobserved a hillock glistening white: it appears from its salt, bittertaste, to have been some kind of nitrate efflorescing from the ground. Thecaravan marched about a mile across the deep valley of Yubbay Tug, andascended its right side by a beaten track: they then emerged from a thinjungle in the lower grounds to the stony hills which compose the country. Here the line pursued was apparently parallel to the mountains borderingupon the sea: between the two ridges was a depression, in which lay asmall watercourse. The road ran along bleak undulating ground, with beltsof Acacia in the hollows: here and there appeared a sycamore tree. On theroad two springs were observed, both of bitter water, one deep below thesurface, the other close to the ground; patches of green grass grew aroundthem. Having entered the Dulbahanta frontier, the caravan unloaded in theevening, after a march of thirteen miles, at a depression called Ali. Nowater was found there. 

_22nd December_. --Early in the morning the traveller started westward, from Ali, wishing that night to make Jid Ali, about eighteen milesdistant. After marching thirteen miles over the same monotonous country asbefore, Lieutenant Speke was stopped by Husayn Haji, the Agil, whodeclared that Guled Ali, another Agil, was opposed to his progress. Aftera long conversation, Lieutenant Speke reasoned him into compliance; butthat night they were obliged to halt at Birhamir, within five miles of JidAli. The traveller was offered as many horses as he wanted, and a freepassage to Berberah, if he would take part in the battle preparing betweenthe two rival clans of Dulbahantas: he refused, on plea of having otherengagements. But whenever the question of penetrating the country wasstarted, there came the same dry answer: "No beggar had even attempted tovisit them--what, then, did the Englishman want?" The Abban's mother cameout from her hut, which was by the wayside, and with many terrorsendeavoured to stop the traveller. 

_23rd December_. --Next morning the Abban appeared, and, by his sorrowfulsurprise at seeing Lieutenant Speke across the frontier, showed that heonly had made the difficulty. The caravan started early, and, travellingfive miles over stony ground, reached the Jid Ali valley. This is a longbelt of fertile soil, running perpendicular to the seaward range; itbegins opposite Bunder Jedid, at a gap in the mountains through which thesea is, they say, visible. In breadth, at the part first visited byLieutenant Speke, it is about two miles: it runs southward, and duringrain probably extends to about twenty miles inland. Near the head of thevalley is a spring of bitter water, absorbed by the soil after a quarterof a mile's course: in the monsoon, however, a considerable torrent mustflow down this depression. Ducks and snipe are found here. The valleyshows, even at this season, extensive patches of grass, large acaciatrees, bushes, and many different kinds of thorns: it is the most woodedlowland seen by Lieutenant Speke. Already the Nomads are here changingtheir habits; two small enclosures have been cultivated by an oldDulbahanta, who had studied agriculture during a pilgrimage to Meccah. TheJowari grows luxuriantly, with stalks 8 and 9 feet high, and this firsteffort had well rewarded the enterpriser. Lieutenant Speke lent the slaveFarhan, to show the art of digging; for this he received the present of agoat. I may here remark that everywhere in the Somali country the peopleare prepared to cultivate grain, and only want some one to take theinitiative. As yet they have nothing but their hands to dig with. A fewscattered huts were observed near Jid Ali, the grass not being yetsufficiently abundant to support collected herds. 

Lieutenant Speke was delayed nineteen days at Jid Ali by various pretexts. The roads were reported closed. The cloth and provisions were exhausted. Five horses must be bought from the Abban for thirty dollars a head (theywere worth one fourth that sum), as presents. The first European thatvisited the Western Country had stopped rain for six months, and the Somalfeared for the next monsoon. All the people would flock in, demanding atleast what the Warsingali had received; otherwise they threatened thetraveller's life. On the 26th of December Lieutenant Speke moved threemiles up the valley to some distance from water, the crowd beingtroublesome, and preventing his servants eating. On the 31st of Decemberall the baggage was brought up from near Abi: one of the camels, beingupon the point of death, was killed and devoured. It was impossible tokeep the Abban from his home, which was distant about four miles: numerousmessages were sent in vain, but Lieutenant Speke drew him from his hut by"sitting in Dhurna, " or dunning him into compliance. At last arose aviolent altercation. All the Warsingali and Dulbahanta servants were takenaway, water was stopped, the cattle were cast loose, and the traveller wastold to arm and defend himself and his two men:--they would all be slainthat night and the Abban would abandon them to the consequences of theirobstinacy. They were not killed, however, and about an hour afterwards theSomal reappeared, declaring that they had no intention of deserting. 

_11th January_, 1855. --About 10 A. M. The caravan started without the Abbanacross the head of the Jid Ali valley. The land was flat, abounding inAcacia, and showing signs of sun parched grass cropped close by thecattle. After a five miles' march the travellers came to a place calledBiyu Hablay; they unloaded under a tree and made a Kraal. Water wasdistant. Around were some courses, ending abruptly in the soft absorbingground. Here the traveller was met by two Dulbahantas, who demanded hisright to enter their lands, and insinuated that a force was gathering tooppose him. They went away, however, after a short time, threatening withsmiles to come again. Lieutenant Speke was also informed that the SouthernDulbahanta tribes had been defeated with loss by the northern clans, andthat his journey would be interrupted by them. Here the traveller remarkedhow willing are the Somal to study: as usual in this country, any man whoreads the Koran and can write out a verset upon a board is an object ofenvy. The people are fanatic. They rebuked the interpreter for not prayingregularly, for eating from a Christian's cooking pot, and for cuttingdeer's throats low down (to serve as specimens); they also did not approveof the traveller's throwing date stones into the fire. As usual, they arefearful boasters. Their ancestors turned Christians out of the country. They despise guns. They consider the Frank formidable only behind walls:they are ready to fight it out in the plain, and they would gallop aroundcannon so that not a shot would tell. Vain words to conceal the hearts ofhares! Lieutenant Speke justly remarks that, on account of the rough wayin which they are brought up, the Somal would become excellent policemen;they should, however, be separated from their own people, and doubtlessthe second generation might be trained into courage. 

At Biyu Hablay Lieutenant Speke, finding time as well as means deficient, dropped all idea of marching to Berberah. He wished to attempt a north-western route to Hais, but the Rer Hamaturwa (a clan of the Habr Gerhajiswho occupy the mountain) positively refused passage. Permission wasaccorded by that clan to march due north upon Bunder Jedid, where, however, the traveller feared that no vessel might be found. As a lastresource he determined to turn to the north-east, and, by a new roadthrough the Habr Gerhajis, to make Las Kuray. 

_18th January_. --The Abban again returned from his home, and accompaniedLieutenant Speke on his first march to the north-east. Early in themorning the caravan started over the ground before described: on thisoccasion, however, it traversed the belt of jungle at the foot of themountains. After a march of six miles they halted at "Mirhiddo, " under atree on elevated ground, in a mere desert, no water being nearer than thespring of Jid Ali. The Abban took the opportunity of Lieutenant Spekegoing out specimen-hunting to return home, contrary to orders, and he didnot reappear till the traveller walked back and induced him to march. Herea second camel, being "in articulo, " was cut up and greedily devoured. 

_21st January_. --The Abban appeared in the morning, and the caravanstarted about noon, over the stony ground at the foot of the hills. Aftera mile's march, the "Protector" again disappeared, in open defiance oforders. That day's work was about ten miles. The caravan halted, late atnight, in the bed of a watercourse, called Hanfallal. Lieutenant Spekevisited the spring, which is of extraordinary sweetness for the Warsingalicountry: it flows from a cleft in the rock broad enough to admit a man'sbody, and about 60 feet deep. 

_23rd January_. --Lieutenant Speke was about to set out under the guidanceof Awado, the Abban's mother, when her graceless son reappeared. At noonthe caravan travelled along a rough road, over the lower spurs of themountains: they went five miles, and it was evening when they unloaded ina watercourse a little distance up the hills, at a place called Dallmalay. The bed was about 150 yards broad, full of jungle, and showed signs of astrong deep stream during the monsoon. The travellers made up a Kraal, butfound no water there. 

_24th January_. --Early in the morning the caravan started, and ascended bya path over the hills. The way was bare of verdure, but easy: here a camelunable to walk, though unloaded, was left behind. One of LieutenantSpeke's discharged camel-men, a Warsingali, being refused passage by theHabr Gerhajis, on account of some previous quarrel, found a stray camel, and carried it off to his home amongst the Dulbahantas. He afterwardsappeared at Las Kuray, having taken the road by which the travellersentered the country. Having marched eleven miles, the caravan arrived inthe evening at Gobamiray, a flat on the crest of the mountains. Here againthick jungle appeared, and the traveller stood over more on the seawardside. Water was distant. 

On arriving, the camels were seized by the Urus Sugay, a clan of the HabrGerhajis. The poor wretches pretended to show fight, and asked if theywere considered a nation of women, that their country was to be enteredwithout permission. Next morning they volunteered to act as escort. 

_25th January_. --Loading was forbidden by the valiant sons of HabrGerhajis; but as they were few in number, and the Warsingali clan wasnear, it went on without interruption. This day, like the latter, wascloudy; heavy showers fell for some hours, and the grass was springing up. Rain had lasted for some time, and had not improved the road. This fall iscalled by the people "Dairti:" it is confined to the hills, whereas theGugi or monsoon is general over the plateau. 

About noon the caravan marched, late, because the Abban's two horses hadstrayed. These animals belonged to a relation of the "Protector, " whocalled them his own, and wished as a civility to sell the garrons at thehighest possible price to his client. The caravan marched down a tortuousand difficult road, descending about four miles. It unloaded as eveningdrew near, and the travellers found at Gambagahh a good dormitory, a cavewhich kept out the rain. Water was standing close by in a pool. The wholeway was a thick jungle of bush and thorn. 

_26th January_. --The Somal insisted upon halting to eat, and the caravandid not start before noon. The road was tolerable and the descent oblique. The jungle was thick and the clouds thicker; rain fell heavily as usual inthe afternoon. Five cloths were given to the Habr Gerhajis as a bribe forpassage. After a march of six miles the caravan halted at a place calledMinan. Here they again found a cave which protected them from the rain. Water was abundant in the hollows of the rock. 

_27th January_. --Early in the morning the caravan set out, and descendedthe hill obliquely by a tolerable road. They passed a number of thorntrees, bearing a gum called Falafala or Luban Meyti, a kind offrankincense: it is thrown upon the fire, and the women are in the habitof standing over it. After travelling six miles the travellers unloaded atHundurgal, on the bank of a watercourse leading to Las Galwayta: somepools of rain-water were observed in the rocky hollows of the bed. 

_28th January_. --At about 9 A. M. The caravan crossed one of the lowerridges of the mountains by a tolerable road. Lieutenant Speke had precededhis camels, and was sitting down to rest, when he was startled by hearingthe rapid discharge of a revolver. His valiant Abban, either in real or inpretended terror of the Habr Gerhajis had fired the pistol as a warning. It had the effect of collecting a number of Bedouins to stare at thetravellers, and cogitate on what they could obtain: they offered, however, no opposition. 

At midday the caravan reached a broad and deep Fiumara, which contained aspring of good sweet water flowing towards the sea. Here they halted forrefreshment. Again advancing, they traversed another ridge, and, after amarch of twelve miles, arrived in the evening at another littlewatercourse on the Maritime Plain. That day was clear and warm, the rainbeing confined to the upper ranges. The name of the halting-place wasFarjeh. 

_29th January_. --The caravan marched over the plain into Kurayat, orLittle Las Kuray, where Lieutenant Speke, after a detention of upwards ofa fortnight, took boat, and after five days' sail arrived at Aden, where Iwas expecting him. He was charged forty dollars--five times the propersum--for a place in a loaded Buggalow: from Aden to Bombay thirty-fivedollars is the hire of the whole cabin. This was the last act of theAbban, who is now by the just orders of the acting Political Resident, Aden, expiating his divers offences in the Station Jail. 

CONCLUSION. 

Lieutenant Speke has passed through three large tribes, the Warsingali, the Dulbahanta, and the Habr Gerhajis. 

The Warsingali have a Sultan or Chief, whose orders are obeyed after afashion by all the clans save one, the Bihidur. He cannot demand theattendance of a subject even to protect the country, and has no power toraise recruits; consequently increase of territory is never contemplatedin this part of the Somali country. In case of murder, theft, or disputebetween different tribes, the aggrieved consult the Sultan, who, assembling the elders, deputes them to feel the inclinations of the"public. " The people prefer revenging themselves by violence, as every manthereby hopes to gain something. The war ends when the enemy has morespears than cattle left--most frequently, however, by mutual consent, whenboth are tired of riding the country. Expeditions seldom meet one another, this retiring as that advances, and he is deemed a brave who can lift afew head of cattle and return home in safety. The commissariat departmentis rudely organised: at the trysting-place, generally some water, thepeople assemble on a day fixed by the Sultan, and slaughter sheep: eachperson provides himself by hanging some dried meat upon his pony. It issaid that on many occasions men have passed upwards of a week with noother sustenance than water. This extensive branch of the Somal is dividedinto eighteen principal clans, viz. :

1. Rer Gerad (the royal family). 2. Rer Fatih. 3. Rer Abdullah. 4. Rer Bihidur. 5. Bohogay Salabay. 6. Adan Yakub. 7. Gerad Umar. 8. Gerad Yusuf. 9. Gerad Liban. 10. Nuh Umar. 11. Adan Said. 12. Rer Haji. 13. Dubbays. 14. Warlabah. 15. Bayabarhay. 16. Rer Yasif. 17. Hindudub. 18. Rer Garwayna. 

The Northern Dulbahantas are suffering greatly from intestine war. Theyare even less tractable than the Warsingali. Their Sultan is a ruler onlyin name; no one respects his person or consults him in matters ofimportance: their Gerad was in the vicinity of the traveller; but evasiveanswers were returned (probably in consequence of the Abban'smachinations) to every inquiry. The elders and men of substance settlelocal matters, and all have a voice in everything that concerns thegeneral weal: such for instance as the transit of a traveller. LieutenantSpeke saw two tribes, the Mahmud Gerad and Rer Ali Nalay. The latter issubdivided into six septs. 

The Habr Gerhajis, here scattered and cut up, have little power. Theirroyal family resides near Berberah, but no one as yet wears the turban;and even when investiture takes place, a ruler's authority will not extendto Makhar. Three clans of this tribe inhabit this part of the Somalicountry, viz. , Bah Gummaron, Rer Hamturwa, and Urus Sugay. 

I venture to submit a few remarks upon the subject of the preceding diary. 

It is evident from the perusal of these pages that though the travellersuffered from the system of black-mail to which the inhospitable Somal ofMakhar subject all strangers, though he was delayed, persecuted by his"protector, " and threatened with war, danger, and destruction, his lifewas never in real peril. Some allowance must also be made for the peopleof the country. Lieutenant Speke was of course recognised as a servant ofGovernment; and savages cannot believe that a man wastes his rice andcloth to collect dead beasts and to ascertain the direction of streams. Hewas known to be a Christian; he is ignorant of the Moslem faith; and, mostfatal to his enterprise, he was limited in time. Not knowing either theArabic or the Somali tongue, he was forced to communicate with the peoplethrough the medium of his dishonest interpreter and Abban. 

I have permitted myself to comment upon the system of interference pursuedby the former authorities of Aden towards the inhabitants of the Somalicoast. A partial intermeddling with the quarrels of these people isunwise. We have the whole line completely in our power. An armed cruiser, by a complete blockade, would compel the inhabitants to comply with anyrequisitions. But either our intervention should be complete, --either weshould constitute ourselves sole judges of all disputes, or we shouldsedulously turn a deaf ear to their complaints. The former I not onlyunderstand to be deprecated by our rulers, but I also hold it to beimprudent. Nothing is more dangerous than to influence in any way thesavage balance of power between these tribes: by throwing our weight onone side we may do them incalculable mischief. The Somal, like the ArabBedouins, live in a highly artificial though an apparently artless stateof political relations; and the imperfect attempt of strangers tointerfere would be turned to the worst account by the designing adventurerand the turbulent spirit who expects to rise by means of anarchy andconfusion. Hitherto our partial intervention between the Habr Awal ofBerberah and the Habr Gerhajis of Zayla has been fraught with evils tothem, and consequently to us. 

But it is a rapidly prevailing custom for merchants and travellers toengage an Abban or Protector, not on the African coast, as was formerlycase, but at Aden. It is clearly advantageous to encourage this practice, since it gives us a right in case of fraud or violence to punish the Abbanas he deserves. 

Lastly, we cannot expect great things without some establishment atBerberah. Were a British agent settled there, he could easily select themost influential and respectable men, to be provided with a certificateentitling them to the honor and emolument of protecting strangers. Nothingwould tend more surely than this measure to open up the new country tocommerce and civilisation. And it must not be inferred, from a perusal ofthe foregoing pages, that the land is valueless. Lieutenant Speke saw buta small portion of it, and that, too, during the dead season. Its exportsspeak for themselves: guano, valuable gums, hides, peltries, mats, clarified butter, honey, and Dumbah sheep. From the ruins and thetraditions of the country, it is clear that a more civilised race onceheld these now savage shores, and the disposition of the people does notdiscourage the hope entertained by every Englishman--that of raising hisfellow man in the scale of civilisation. 

Camp, Aden, March, 1855. 

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS

_Made by Lieutenant Speke, during his Experimental Tour in Eastern Africa, portions of Warsingali, Dulbahanta, &c. _

 Date. | 6 A. M. | Noon. | 3 P. M. | Meteorological Notices. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1854. Oct. 29. 70° 87° *112° Wind from the N. E. Strong. (*Exposed " 30. 70 87 85 Ditto. To sun. ) " 31. 68 88 85 Ditto. Nov. 1. 67 88 82 Ditto. (These observations from " 2. 62 86 85 Ditto. The 29th Oct. To the 7th " 3. 59 86 " Nov. , were taken in the " 4. 65 86 84 Ditto. Tent. ) " 5. 65 88 -- Ditto. " 6. 63 88 86 Ditto. " 7. 74 90 88 Cloudy in the morning. " 8. 66 83 88 Wind strong from the N. E. (In open " 9. 64 84 82 Ditto. Air, but not exposed " 10. 69 84 82 Ditto. To the sun. ) " 11. 70 84 82 Ditto. " 12. 68 83 82 " 13. 64 85 82 " 14. 77 82 82 " 15. 70 83 83 " 16. 72 83 82 " 17. 62 110 104 In open air exposed to sun. " 18. 62 95 96 " 19. 62 102 95 All these observations were taken " 20. -- 98 103 during the N. E. Monsoon, when the " 21. " " " wind comes from that quarter. It " 22. 59 74 77 generally makes its appearance " 23. 56 81 75 about half-past 9 A. M. " 24. 59 78 82 " 25. 58 78 79 " 26. 60 74 75 " 27. 59 82 77 " 28. 59 82 72 " 29. 59 -- 80 " 30. 61 82 80 Dec. 1. 52 78 86 " 2. 50 86 89 " 3. " " " " 4. -- 69 " " 5. 54 84 84 " 6. -- 97 98 " 7. 52 -- 89 " 8. 52 95 100 " 9. 38 90 94 " 10. 42 92 91 " 11. 42 " " " 12. 45 73 " " 13. 40 81 82 " 14. 25 76 82 " 15. 33 80 82 " 16. 47 91 89 " 17. 36 84 90 " 18. 34 82 84 " 19. 54 78 84 " 20. 52 77 83 " 31. -- 89 88

 1855. Jan. 1. 40 98 98 In open air exposed to the sun. " 2. 43 84 88 All these observations were taken " 3. 34 84 86 during the N. E. Monsoon, when " 4. 32 86 84 the wind comes from that quarter; " 5. 28 96 87 generally making its appearance at " 6. 34 92 94 about half-past 9 A. M. " 7. 39 91 80 " 8. 39 95 " " 9. 40 81 " " 10. 55 -- 72 " 11. 50 91 90 " 12. 53 87 90 " 13. 51 94 94 " 14. 39 84 95 " 16. 40 81 87 " 17. 46 78 81 " 18. 42 86 88 " 19. 44 82 83 " 20. 40 " " " 21. 38 87 93 " 22. 50 91 84 " 23. 52 86 98 " 24. 52 -- 62 On the north or sea face of the " 25. 51 79 66 Warsangali Hills, during 24th, " 26. 58 65 63 25th, and 26th, had rain and heavy " 27. 58 " " clouds daring the day: blowing " 30. 72 82 82 off towards the evening. " 31. 71 88 93 From the 27th to the 7th theFeb. 1. 67 96 80 observations were taken at the sea. " 2. 74 89 80 " 3. 68 87 88 " 4. 68 89 " " 5. 68 84 83 " 6. 72 88 " On the 7th observations were taken " 7. 68 83 " in tent. --------------------------------------------------------------------------

 | Govern. | | | Therm. ! Therm. | Feet. | boiled. | |-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1854Nov. 1st. At Las Guray 212° 88° 0000 22nd. At Adhai 204. 25 81 4577 30th. At Habal Ishawalay 203 58 5052Dec. 4th. At Yafir, top of range 200. 25 69 6704 5th. At Mukur, on plateau 205. 5 67 3660 7th. At Rhat Tug, on plateau 206. 5 62 3077 15th. At Yubbay Tug, on plateau 204 62 4498 Government boiling therm. Broke here. Common therm. Out of bazar boiled at sea level 209° Thermometer 76 1855 Com. Ther. Jan. 1st. At Jid Alli, on plateau 202° 62 3884 12th. At Biyu Hablay 201. 62 4 449--------------------------------------------------------------------------

APPENDIX II. 

GRAMMATICAL OUTLINE AND VOCABULARY

HARARI LANGUAGE. 

[Editor's note: This appendix was omitted because of the large number ofArabic characters it contains, which makes it impossible to reproduceaccurately following PG standards. ]

APPENDIX III

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS IN THE COLD SEASON OF 1854-5, BYLIEUTENANTS HERNE, STROYAN, AND BURTON. 

[Editor's note: This appendix contains tables of numbers that are too wideto be reproduced accurately following PG standards. ]

APPENDIX IV. 

It has been found necessary to omit this Appendix. 

[Editor's note: This appendix, written in Latin by Burton, containeddescriptions of sexual customs among certain tribes. It was removed by thepublisher of the book, who apparently considered it to be too _risque_ forthe Victorian public. ]

APPENDIX V. 

A CONDENSED ACCOUNT OF AN ATTEMPT TO REACH HARAR FROM ANKOBAR. 

The author is Lieutenant, now Commander, WILLIAM BARKER of the IndianNavy, one of the travellers who accompanied Sir William Cornwallis, thenCaptain, Harris on his mission to the court of Shoa. His services beingrequired by the Bombay Government, he was directed by Captain Harris, onOctober 14th, 1841, to repair to the coast via Harar, by a road "hithertountrodden by Europeans. " These pages will reward perusal as a narrative ofadventure, especially as they admirably show what obstacles the suspiciouscharacters and the vain terrors of the Bedouins have thrown in the way ofenergy and enterprise. 

"Aden, February 28, 1842. 

"Shortly after I had closed my last communication to Captain Harris of theBombay Engineers on special duty at the Court of Shoa (14. Jan. 1842), areport arrived at Allio Amba that Demetrius, an Albanian who had been forten years resident in the Kingdom of Shoa, and who had left it forTajoorah, accompanied by "Johannes, " another Albanian, by three Arabs, formerly servants of the Embassy, and by several slaves, had been murderedby the Bedoos (Bedouins) near Murroo. This caused a panic among myservants. I allayed it with difficulty, but my interpreter declared hisfinal intention of deserting me, as the Hurruri caravan had threatened tokill him if he persisted in accompanying me. Before proceeding farther itmay be as well to mention that I had with me four servants, one a merelad, six mules and nine asses to carry my luggage and provisions. 

"I had now made every arrangement, having, as the Wallasena Mahomed Abugassuggested, purchased a fine horse and a Tobe for my protector and guide, Datah Mahomed of the clan Seedy Habroo, a subtribe of the Debeneh. It wastoo late to recede: accordingly at an early hour on Saturday, the 15thJanuary, 1842, I commenced packing, and about 8 A. M. Took my departurefrom the village of Allio Amba. I had spent there a weary three months, and left it with that mixture of pleasure and regret felt only by thosewho traverse unknown and inhospitable regions. I had made many friends, who accompanied me for some distance on the road, and took leave of mewith a deep feeling which assured me of their sympathy. Many endeavouredto dissuade me from the journey, but my lot was cast. 

"About five miles from Allio, I met the nephew of the Wallasena, whoaccompanied me to Farri, furnished me with a house there, and ordered mymules and asses to be taken care of. Shortly after my arrival the guide, an old man, made his appearance and seemed much pleased by my punctuality. 

"At noon, on Sunday the 16th, the Wallasena arrived, and sent over hiscompliments, with a present of five loaves of bread. I called upon him inthe evening, and reminded him of the letter he had promised me; he orderedit to be prepared, taking for copy the letter which the king (SahalaSalassah of Shoa) had given to me. 

"My guide having again promised to forward me in safety, the Wallasenapresented him with a spear, a shield, and a Tobe, together with the horseand the cloth which I had purchased for him. About noon on Monday the17th, we quitted Farri with a slave-caravan bound for Tajoorah. I wasacquainted with many of these people, the Wallasena also recommended mestrongly to the care of Mahomed ibn Buraitoo and Dorranu ibn Kamil. Weproceeded to Datharal, the Wallasena and his nephew having escorted me asfar as Denehmelli, where they took leave. I found the Caffilah to consistof fifteen Tajoorians, and about fifty camels laden with provisions forthe road, fifty male and about twenty female slaves, mostly children fromeight to ten years of age. My guide had with him five camels laden withgrain, two men and two women. 

"The Ras el Caffilah (chief of the caravan) was one Ibrahim ibn Boorantoo, who it appears had been chief of the embassy caravan, although Essakh(Ishak) gave out that he was. It is certain that this man always gaveorders for pitching the camp and for loading; but we being unaware of thefact that he was Ras el Caffilah, he had not received presents on thearrival of the Embassy at Shoa. Whilst unloading the camels, the followingconversation took place. 'Ya Kabtan!' (0 Captain) said he addressing mewith a sneer, 'where are you going to?--do you think the Bedoos will letyou pass through their country? We shall see! Now I will tell you!--youFeringis have treated me very ill!--you loaded Essakh and others withpresents, but never gave me anything. I have, as it were, a knife in mystomach which is continually cutting me--this knife you have placed there!But, inshallah! it is now my turn! I will be equal with you!--you think ofgoing to Hurrur--we shall see!' I replied, 'You know me not! It is true Iwas ignorant that you were Ras el Caffilah on our way to Shoa. You say youhave a knife cutting your inside--I can remove that knife! Those who treatme well, now that I am returning to my country, shall be rewarded; for, the Lord be praised! there I have the means of repaying my friends, but inShoa I am a beggar. Those that treat me ill shall also receive theirreward. '

"My mules, being frightened at the sight of the camels, were exceedinglyrestive; one of them strayed and was brought back by Deeni ibn Hamed, ayoung man who was indebted to me for some medicines and a trifling presentwhich he had received from the embassy. Ibrahim, the Ras el Caffilah, seeing him lead it back, called out, 'So you also have become servant tothe Kafir (infidel)!' At the same time Datah Mahomed, the guide, addressedto me some remark which he asked Ibrahim to explain; the latter replied ina sarcastic manner in Arabic, a language with which I am unacquainted. [1]This determined hostility on the part of the Ras el Caffilah wasparticularly distressing to me, as I feared he would do me much mischief. I therefore determined to gain him over to my interests, and accordingly, taking Deeni on one side, I promised him a handsome present if he wouldtake an opportunity of explaining to Ibrahim that he should be wellrewarded if he behaved properly, and at the same time that if he actedbadly, that a line or two sent to Aden would do him harm. I also beggedhim to act as my interpreter as long as we were together, and hecheerfully agreed to do so. 

"We were on the point of resuming our journey on Tuesday the 18th, when itwas found that the mule of the el Caffilah had strayed. After his conducton the preceding evening, he was ashamed to come to me, but he deputed oneof the caravan people to request the loan of one of my mules to go inquest of his. I gave him one readily. We were detained that day as themissing animal was not brought back till late. Notwithstanding mycivility, I observed him in close conversation with Datah Mahomed, aboutthe rich presents which the Feringis had given to Essakh and others, and Ifrequently observed him pointing to my luggage in an expressive manner. Towards evening the guide came to me and said, 'My son! I am an old man, my teeth are bad, I cannot eat this parched grain--I see you eat bread. Now we are friends, you must give me some of it!' I replied that severaltimes after preparing for the journey, I had been disappointed and at laststarted on a short notice--that I was but scantily supplied withprovisions, and had a long journey before me: notwithstanding which I wasperfectly willing that he should share with me what I had as long as itlasted, and that as he was a great chief, I expected that he would furnishme with a fresh supply on arriving at his country. He then said, 'it iswell! but why did you not buy me a mule instead of a horse?' My reply wasthat I had supposed that the latter would be more acceptable to him. Idivided the night into three watches: my servants kept the first andmiddle, and I myself the morning. 

"We quitted Dattenab, the frontier station, at about 7 o'clock A. M. , onWednesday the 19th. The country at this season presented a more livelyappearance than when we travelled over it before, grass being abundant: onthe trees by the roadside was much gum Acacia, which the Caffilah peoplecollected as they passed. I was pleased to remark that Ibrahim was theonly person ill-disposed towards me, the rest of the travellers were civiland respectful. At noon we halted under some trees by the wayside. Presently we were accosted by six Bedoos of the Woemah tribe who weretravelling from Keelulho to Shoa: they informed us that Demetrius had beenplundered and stripped by the Takyle tribe, that one Arab and three maleslaves had been slain, and that another Arab had fled on horseback to theEtoh (Ittu) Gallas, whence nothing more had been heard of him: the rest ofthe party were living under the protection of Shaykh Omar Buttoo of theTakyle. The Bedoos added that plunderers were lying in wait on the banksof the river Howash for the white people that were about to leave Shoa. The Ras el Caffilah communicated to me this intelligence, and concluded bysaying: 'Now, if you wish to return, I will take you back, but if you sayforward, let us proceed!' I answered, 'Let us proceed!' I must own thatthe intelligence pleased me not; two of my servants were for returning, but they were persuaded to go on to the next station, where we would beguided by circumstances. About 2 o'clock P. M. We again proceeded, after along "Cullam" or talk, which ended in Datah Mahomed sending for assistanceto a neighbouring tribe. During a conversation with the Ras el Caffilah, Ifound out that the Bedoos were lying in wait, not for the white people, but for our caravan. It came out that these Bedouins had had the worst ofa quarrel with the last Caffilah from Tajoorah: they then threatened toattack it in force on its return. The Ras el Caffilah was assured that aslong as we journeyed together, I should consider his enemies my enemies, and that being well supplied with firearms, I would assist him on alloccasions. This offer pleased him, and we became more friendly. We passedseveral deserted villages of the Bedoos, who had retired for want of watertowards the Wadys, and about 7 o'clock P. M. Halted at the lake Leadoo. 

"On the morning of Thursday the 20th, Datah Mahomed came to me anddelivered himself though Deeni as follows: 'My son! our father theWallasena entrusted you to my care, we feasted together in Gouchoo--youare to me as the son of my house! Yesterday I heard that the Bedoos werewaiting to kill, but fear not, for I have sent to the Seedy Habroo forsome soldiers, who will be here soon. Now these soldiers are sent for onyour account; they will want much cloth, but you are a sensible person, and will of course pay them well. They will accompany us beyond theHowash!' I replied, ' It is true, the Wallasena entrusted me to your care. He also told me that you were a great chief, and could forward me on myjourney. I therefore did not prepare a large supply of cloth--a longjourney is before me--what can be spared shall be freely given, but youmust tell the soldiers that I have but little. You are now my father!'

"Scarcely had I ceased when the soldiers, fine stout-looking savages, armed with spear, shield, and crease, mustering about twenty-five, madetheir appearance. It was then 10 A. M. The word was given to load thecamels, and we soon moved forward. I found my worthy protector exceedinglygood-natured and civil, dragging on my asses and leading my mules. Nearthe Howash we passed several villages, in which I could not but remark thegreat proportion of children. At about 3 P. M. We forded the river, whichwas waist-deep, and on the banks of which were at least 3000 head ofhorned cattle. Seeing no signs of the expected enemy, we journeyed on till5 P. M. , when we halted at the south-eastern extremity of the Howash Plain, about one mile to the eastward of a small pool of water. 

"At daylight on Friday the 21st it was discovered that Datah Mahomed'shorse had disappeared. This was entirely his fault; my servants hadbrought it back when it strayed during the night, but he said, 'Let itfeed, it will not run away!' When I condoled with him on the loss of sonoble an animal, he replied, 'I know very well who has taken it: one of mycousins asked me for it yesterday, and because I refused to give it he hasstolen it; never mind, Inshallah! I will steal some of his camels. ' Aftera 'Cullam' about what was to be given to our worthy protectors, it wassettled that I should contribute three cloths and the Caffilah ten;receiving these, they departed much satisfied. Having filled our water-skins, we resumed our march a little before noon. Several herds ofantelope and wild asses appeared on the way. At 7 P. M. We halted nearHano. Prevented from lighting a fire for fear of the Galla, I was obligedto content myself with some parched grain, of which I had prepared a largesupply. 

"At sunrise on the 22nd we resumed our journey, the weather becoming warmand the grass scanty. At noon we halted near Shaykh Othman. I was glad tofind that Deeni had succeeded in converting the Ras el Caffilah from anavowed enemy to a staunch friend, at least outwardly so; he has now becomeas civil and obliging as he was before the contrary. There being no waterat this station, I desired my servant Adam not to make any bread, contenting myself with the same fare as that of the preceding evening. This displeasing Datah Mahomed, some misunderstanding arose, which, fromtheir ignorance of each other's language, might, but for the interferenceof the Ras el Caffilah and Deeni, have led to serious results. Anexplanation ensued, which ended in Datah Mahomed seizing me by the beard, hugging and embracing me in a manner truly unpleasant. I then desired Adamto make him some bread and coffee, and harmony was once more restored. This little disturbance convinced me that if once left among these savageswithout any interpreter, that I should be placed in a very dangeroussituation. The Ras el Caffilah also told me that unless he saw that theroad was clear for me to Hurrur, and that there was no danger to beapprehended, that he could not think of leaving me, but should take mewith him to Tajoorah. He continued, 'You know not the Emir of Hurrur: whenhe hears of your approach he will cause you to be waylaid by the Galla. Why not come with me to Tajoorah? If you fear being in want of provisionswe have plenty, and you shall share all we have!' I was much surprised atthis change of conduct on the part of the Ras el Caffilah, and by way ofencouraging him to continue friendly, spared not to flatter him, saying itwas true I did not know him before, but now I saw he was a man ofexcellent disposition. At three P. M. We again moved forward. Grass becamemore abundant; in some places it was luxuriant and yet green. We halted ateight P. M. The night was cold with a heavy dew, and there being no fuel, Iagain contented myself with parched grain. 

"At daylight on the 23rd we resumed our march. Datah Mahomed asked for twomules, that he and his friend might ride forward to prepare for myreception at his village. I lent him the animals, but after a few minuteshe returned to say that I had given him the two worst, and he would not gotill I dismounted and gave him the mule which I was riding. About noon wearrived at the lake Toor Erain Murroo, where the Bedouins were in greatnumbers watering their flocks and herds, at least 3000 head of hornedcattle and sheep innumerable. Datah Mahomed, on my arrival, invited me tobe seated under the shade of a spreading tree, and having introduced me tohis people as his guest and the friend of the Wallasena, immediatelyordered some milk, which was brought in a huge bowl fresh and warm fromthe cow; my servants were similarly provided. During the night Adam shot afox, which greatly astonished the Bedouins, and gave them even more dreadof our fire-arms. Hearing that Demetrius and his party, who had beenplundered of everything, were living at a village not far distant, Ioffered to pay the Ras el Caffilah any expense he might be put to if hewould permit them to accompany our caravan to Tajoorah. He said that hehad no objection to their joining the Caffilah, but that he had beeninformed their wish was to return to Shoa. I had a long conversation withthe Ras, who begged of me not to go to Hurrur; 'for, ' he said, 'it is wellknown that the Hurruri caravan remained behind solely on your account. Youwill therefore enter the town, should you by good fortune arrive there atall, under unfavourable circumstances. I am sure that the Emir [2], whomay receive you kindly, will eventually do you much mischief, besideswhich these Bedouins will plunder you of all your property. ' The otherpeople of the caravan, who are all my friends, also spoke in the samestrain. This being noted as a bad halting place, all kept watch with usduring the night. 

"The mules and camels having had their morning feed, we set out at about10 A. M. On Monday the 24th for the village of Datah Mahomed, he havinginvited the Caffilah's people and ourselves to partake of his hospitalityand be present at his marriage festivities. The place is situated abouthalf a mile to the E. N. E. Of the lake; it consists of about sixty huts, surrounded by a thorn fence with separate enclosures for the cattle. Thehuts are formed of curved sticks, with their ends fastened in the ground, covered with mats, in shape approaching to oval, about five feet high, fifteen feet long, and eight broad. Arrived at the village, we found theelders seated under the shade of a venerable Acacia feasting; six bullockswere immediately slaughtered for the Caffilah and ourselves. At sunset acamel was brought out in front of the building and killed--the Bedoos areextremely fond of this meat. In the evening I had a long conversation withDatah Mahomed, who said, 'My son! you have as yet given me nothing. TheWallasena gave me everything. My horse has been stolen--I want a mule andmuch cloth. ' Deeni replied for me that the mules were presents from theking (Sahala Salassah) to the Governor of Aden: this the old man would notbelieve. I told him that I had given him the horse and Tobe, but heexclaimed, 'No, no! my son; the Wallasena is our father; he told me thathe had given them to me, and also that you would give me great things whenyou arrived at my village. My son! the Wallasena would not lie. ' Datah wasthen called away. 

"Early on the morning of Tuesday the 25th, Datah Mahomed invited me andthe elders of the Caffilah to his hut, where he supplied us liberally withmilk; clarified butter was then handed round, and the Tajoorians anointedtheir bodies. After we had left his hut, he came to me, and in presence ofthe Ras el Caffilah and Deeni said, 'You see I have treated you with greathonour, you must give me a mule and plenty of cloth, as all my people wantcloth. You have given me nothing as yet!' Seeing that I became ratherangry, and declared solemnly that I had given him the horse and Tobe, hesmiled and said, 'I know that, but I want a mule, my horse has beenstolen. '--I replied that I would see about it. He then asked for all myblue cloth and my Arab 'Camblee' (blanket). My portmanteau being ratherthe worse for wear--its upper leather was torn--he thrust in his fingers, and said, with a most avaricious grin, 'What have you here?' I immediatelyarose and exclaimed, 'You are not my father; the Wallasena told me youwould treat me kindly; this is not doing so. ' He begged pardon and said, 'Do not be frightened, my son; I will take nothing from you but what yougive me freely. You think I am a bad man; people have been telling you illthings about me. I am now an old man, and have given up such child's workas plundering people. ' It became, however, necessary to inquire of DatahMahomed what were his intentions with regard to myself. I found that I hadbeen deceived at Shoa; there it was asserted that he lived at Errur andwas brother to Bedar, one of the most powerful chiefs of the Adel, insteadof which it proved that he was not so highly connected, and that hevisited Errur only occasionally. Datah told me that his marriage feastwould last seven days, after which he would forward me to Doomi, where weshould find Bedar, who would send me either to Tajoorah or to Hurrur, ashe saw fit. 

"I now perceived that all hope of reaching Hurrur was at an end. Vexed anddisappointed at having suffered so much in vain, I was obliged to resignthe idea of going there for the following reasons: The Mission treasurywas at so low an ebb that I had left Shoa with only three German crowns, and the prospect of meeting on the road Mahomed Ali in charge of thesecond division of the Embassy and the presents, who could have suppliedme with money. The constant demands of Datah Mahomed for tobacco, forcloth, in fact for everything he saw, would become ten times more annoyingwere I left with him without an interpreter. The Tajoorians, also, oneall, begged me not to remain, saying, 'Think not of your property, butonly of your and your servants' lives. Come with us to Tajoorah; we willtravel quick, and you shall share our provisions. ' At last I consented tothis new arrangement, and Datah Mahomed made no objection. Thisindividual, however, did not leave me till he had extorted from me my bestmule, all my Tobes (eight in number), and three others, which I borrowedfrom the caravan people. He departed about midnight, saying that he wouldtake away his mule in the morning. 

"At 4 A. M. On the 26th I was disturbed by Datah Mahomed, who took away hismule, and then asked for more cloth, which was resolutely refused. He thenbegged for my 'Camblee, ' which, as it was my only covering, I would notpart with, and checked him by desiring him to strip me if he wished it. Hethen left me and returned in about an hour, with a particular friend whohad come a long way expressly to see me. I acknowledged the honour, anddeeply regretted that I had only words to pay for it, he himself havingreceived my last Tobe. 'However, ' I continued, seeing the old man's browdarken, 'I will endeavour to borrow one from the Caffilah people. ' Deenibrought me one, which was rejected as inferior. I then said, 'You see mydress--that cloth is better than what I wear--but here; take my turban. 'This had the desired effect; the cloth was accepted. At length DatahMahomed delivered me over to the charge of the Ras el Caffilah in a veryimpressive manner, and gave me his blessing. We resumed our journey at 2P. M. , when I joined heartily with the caravan people in their 'Praise beto God! we are at length clear of the Bedoos!' About 8 P. M. We halted atMetta. 

"At half-past 4 A. M. On the 27th we started; all the people of theCaffilah were warm in their congratulations that I had given up the Hurrurroute. At 9 A. M. We halted at Codaitoo: the country bears marks of havingbeen thickly inhabited during the rains, but at present, owing to the wantof water, not an individual was to be met with. At Murroo we filled ourwater-skins, there being no water between that place and Doomi, distanttwo days' journey. As the Ras el Caffilah had heard that the Bedoos wereas numerous as the hairs of his head at Doomi and Keelulhoo, he determinedto avoid both and proceed direct to Warrahambili, where water wasplentiful and Bedoos were few, owing to the scarcity of grass. This, hesaid, was partly on my account and partly on his own, as he would be muchtroubled by the Bedouins of Doomi, many of them being his kinsmen. Wecontinued our march from 3 P. M. Till 9 P. M. , when we halted at Boonderrah. 

"At 4 P. M. , on January 28th, we moved forward through the WaddyBoonderrah, which was dry at that season; grass, however, was stillabundant. From 11 A. M. Till 4 P. M. , we halted at Geera Dohiba. Then againadvancing we traversed, by a very rough road, a deep ravine, called the"Place of Lions. " The slaves are now beginning to be much knocked up, manyof them during the last march were obliged to be put upon camels. I forgotto mention that one died the day we left Murroo. At 10 P. M. We halted atHagaioo Geera Dohiba: this was formerly the dwelling-place of Hagaioo, chief of the Woemah (Dankali), but the Eesa Somali having made asuccessful attack upon him, and swept off all his cattle, he deserted it. During the night the barking of dogs betrayed the vicinity of a Bedooencampment, and caused us to keep a good look-out. Water being too scarceto make bread, I contented myself with coffee and parched grain. 

"At daylight on the 29th we resumed our journey, and passed by anencampment of the Eesa, About noon we reached Warrahambili. Thus far wehave done well, but the slaves are now so exhausted that a halt of twodays will be necessary to recruit their strength. In this Wady we found anabundance of slightly brackish water, and a hot spring. 

"_Sunday, 30th January. _--A Caffilah, travelling from Tajoorah to Shoa, passed by. The people kindly offered to take my letters. Mahomed ibnBoraitoo, one of the principal people in the Caffilah, presented me with afine sheep and a quantity of milk, which I was glad to accept. There hadbeen a long-standing quarrel between him and our Ras el Caffilah. When thelatter heard that I accepted the present he became very angry, and said tomy servant, Adam, 'Very well, your master chooses to take things fromother people; why did he not ask me if he wanted sheep? We shall see!'Adam interrupted him by saying, 'Be not angry; my master did not ask forthe sheep, it was brought to him as a present; it has been slaughtered, and I was just looking for you to distribute it among the people of theCaffilah. ' This appeased him; and Adam added, 'If my master hears yourwords he will be angry, for he wishes to be friends with all people. ' Imention the above merely to show how very little excites these savages toanger. The man who gave me the sheep, hearing that I wished to go toTajoorah, offered to take me there in four days. I told him I would firstconsult the Ras el Caffilah, who declared it would not be safe for me toproceed from this alone, but that from Dakwaylaka (three marches inadvance) he himself would accompany me in. The Ras then presented me witha sheep. 

"We resumed our journey at 1 P. M. , January 31st, passed several parties ofEesa, and at 8 P. M. Halted at Burroo Ruddah. 

"On February 1st we marched from 4 A. M. To 11 A. M. , when we halted in theWady Fiahloo, dry at this season. Grass was abundant. At 3 P. M. We resumedour journey. Crossing the plain of Amahdoo some men were observed to thesouthward, marching towards the Caffilah; the alarm and the order to closeup were instantly given; our men threw aside their upper garments andprepared for action, being fully persuaded that it was a party of Eesacoming to attack them. However, on nearer approach we observed severalcamels with them; two men were sent on to inquire who they were; theyproved to be a party of Somalis going to Ousak for grain. At 8 P. M. Wehalted on the plain of Dakwaylaka. 

"At daylight on February the 2nd, the Ras el Caffilah, Deeni, and Mahomedaccompanied me in advance of the caravan to water our mules at Dakwaylaka. Arriving there about 11 A. M. We found the Bedoos watering their cattle. Mahomed unbridled his animal, which rushed towards the trough from whichthe cattle were drinking; the fair maid who was at the well baling out thewater into the trough immediately set up the shrill cry of alarm, and wewere compelled to move about a mile up the Wady, when we came to a pool ofwater black as ink. Thirsty as I was I could not touch the stuff. TheCaffilah arrived about half-past 1 P. M. , by which time the cattle of theBedoos had all been driven off to grass, so that the well was at ourservice. We encamped close to it. Ibrahim recommended that Adam Burroo ofthe Assoubal tribe, a young Bedoo, and a relation of his should accompanyour party. I promised him ten dollars at Tajoorah. [3] At 3 P. M. , havingcompleted my arrangements, and leaving one servant behind to bring up theluggage, I quitted the Caffilah amidst the universal blessings of thepeople. I was accompanied by Ibrahim, the Ras el Caffilah, Deeni ibnHamid, my interpreter, three of my servants, and the young Bedoo, allmounted on mules. One baggage mule, fastened behind one of my servants'animals, carried a little flour, parched grain, and coffee, coffee-pot, frying-pan, and one suit of clothes for each. Advancing at a rapid pace, about 5 P. M. We came up with a party consisting of Eesa, with theircamels. One of them instantly collected the camels, whilst the othershurried towards us in a suspicious way. The Bedoo hastened to meet them, and we were permitted, owing, I was told, to my firearms, the appearanceof which pleased them not, to proceed quietly. At 7 P. M. , having arrivedat a place where grass was abundant, we turned off the road and halted. 

"At 1:30 A. M. , on Thursday, 3rd February, as the moon rose we saddled ourmules and pushed forward at a rapid pace. At 4 A. M. We halted and had acup of coffee each, when we again mounted. As the day broke we came uponan encampment of the Debeneh, who hearing the clatter of our mules' hoofs, set up the cry of alarm. The Bedoo pacified them: they had supposed us tobe a party of Eesa. We continued our journey, and about 10 A. M. We haltedfor breakfast, which consisted of coffee and parched grain. At noon weagain moved forward, and at 3 P. M. , having arrived at a pool of watercalled Murhabr in the Wady Dalabayah, we halted for about an hour to makesome bread. We then continued through the Wady, passed several Bedooencampments till a little after dark, when we descended into the plain ofGurgudeli. Here observing several fires, the Bedoo crawled along toreconnoitre, and returned to say they were Debeneh. We gave them a wideberth, and about 8:30 P. M. Halted. We were cautioned not to make a fire, but I had a great desire for a cup of coffee after the fatigue of thislong march. Accordingly we made a small fire, concealing it with shields. 

"At 3 A. M. On Friday, the 4th February, we resumed our journey. Afterabout an hour and a half arriving at a good grazing ground, we halted tofeed the mules, and then watered them at Alooli. At 1 P. M. I found the sunso oppressive that I was obliged to halt for two hours. We had struck offto the right of the route pursued by the Embassy, and crossed, not theSalt Lake, but the hills to the southward. The wind blowing very strongconsiderably retarded our progress, so that we did not arrive at Dahfurri, our halting-place, till sunset. Dahfurri is situated about four miles tothe southward of Mhow, the encampment of the Embassy near the Lake, andabout 300 yards to the eastward of the road. Here we found a large basinof excellent water, which the Tajoorians informed me was a mere mass ofmud when we passed by to Shoa, but that the late rains had cleared awayall the impurities. After sunset a gale of wind blew. 

"At 1 A. M. On the 5th February, the wind having decreased we started. Passing through the pass of the Rer Essa, the barking of dogs caused ussome little uneasiness, as it betrayed the vicinity of the Bedoo, whetherfriend or foe we knew not. Ibrahim requested us to keep close order, andto be silent. As day broke we descended into the plain of Warrah Lissun, where we halted and ate the last of the grain. After half an hour's haltwe continued our journey. Ibrahim soon declared his inability to keep upwith us, so he recommended me to the care of the Bedoo and Deeni, sayinghe would follow slowly. We arrived at Sagulloo about 11 A. M. , and Ibrahimabout two hours afterwards. At 3 P. M. We resumed our march, and a littlebefore sunset arrived at Ambaboo. 

"The elders had a conference which lasted about a quarter of an hour, whenthey came forward and welcomed me, directing men to look after my mules. Iwas led to a house which had been cleaned for my reception. Ibrahim thenbrought water and a bag of dates, and shortly afterwards some rice andmilk. Many villagers called to pay their respects, and remained but ashort time as I wanted repose: they would scarcely believe that I hadtravelled in eighteen days from Shoa, including four day's halt. 

"Early on the morning of the 6th February I set out for Tajoorah, where Iwas received with every demonstration of welcome by both rich and poor. The Sultan gave me his house, and after I had drunk a cup of coffee withhim, considerately ordered away all the people who had flocked to see me, as, he remarked, I must be tired after so rapid a journey. 

"It may not be amiss to mention here that the British character standsvery high at Tajoorah. The people assured me that since the British hadtaken Aden they had enjoyed peace and security, and that from beingbeggars they had become princes. As a proof of their sincerity they saidwith pride, 'Look at our village, you saw it a year and a half ago, youknow what it was then, behold what is now!' I confessed that it had beenmuch improved. "

(From Tajoorah the traveller, after awarding his attendants, took boat forZayla, where he was hospitably received by the Hajj Sharmarkay's agent. Suffering severely from fever, on Monday the 14th February he put to seaagain and visited Berberah, where he lived in Sharmarkay's house, andfinally he arrived at Aden on Friday the 25th February, 1842. He concludesthe narrative of his adventure as follows. )

"It is due to myself that I should offer some explanation for the roughmanner in which this report is drawn up. On leaving Shoa the Caffilahpeople marked with a jealous eye that I seemed to number the slaves andcamels, and Deeni reported to me that they had observed my making entriesin my note-book. Whenever the Bedoos on the road caught sight of a pieceof paper, they were loud in their demands for it. [4] Our marches were sorapid that I was scarcely allowed time sufficient to prepare for thefatigues of the ensuing day, and experience had taught me the necessity ofkeeping a vigilant watch. [5] Aware that Government must be anxious forinformation from the 'Mission, ' I performed the journey in a shorter spaceof time than any messenger, however highly paid, has yet done it, and forseveral days lived on coffee and parched grain. Moreover, on arrival atAden, I was so weak from severe illness that I could write but at shortintervals. 

"It will not, I trust, be considered that the alteration in my route wascaused by trivial circumstances. It would have been absurd to haveremained with the Bedoos without an interpreter: there would have beendaily disputes and misunderstandings, and I had already sufficient insightinto the character of Datah Mahomed to perceive that his avarice wasinsatiable. Supposing I had passed through his hands, there was the chiefof Bedar, who, besides expecting much more than I had given to DatahMahomed, would, it is almost certain, eventually have forwarded me toTajoorah. Finally, if I can believe the innumerable reports of the people, both at Tajoorah and Zalaya, neither I myself nor my servants would everhave passed through the kingdom of Hurrur. The jealousy of the princeagainst foreigners is so great that, although he would not injure themwithin the limits of his own dominions, he would cause them to waylaid andmurdered on the road. "

FOOTNOTES

[1] Thus in the original. It may be a mistake, for Captain Barker is, I aminformed, a proficient in conversational Arabic. 

[2] This chief was the Emir Abubakr, father of Ahmed: the latter wasruling when I entered Harar in 1855. 

[3] As the youth gave perfect satisfaction, he received, besides the tendollars, a Tobe and a European saddle, "to which he had taken a greatfancy. "

[4] In these wild countries every bit of paper written over is consideredto be a talisman or charm. 

[5] A sergeant, a corporal, and a Portuguese cook belonging to CaptainHarris's mission were treacherously slain near Tajoorah at night. Themurderers were Hamid Saborayto, and Mohammed Saborayto, two Dankalis ofthe Ad All clan. In 1842 they seem to have tried a _ruse de guerre_ uponM. Rochet, and received from him only too mild a chastisement. Theruffians still live at Juddah (Jubbah ?) near Ambabo.