DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA;

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

COASTS AND RIVERS

EXPLORED AND SURVEYED DURING THE

VOYAGE OF H. M. S. BEAGLE, IN THE YEARS 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. 

BY

COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 

ALSO

A NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS

TO THE

ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA. 

BY

J. LORT STOKES, COMMANDER, R. N. 

VOLUME 1. 

LONDON:T. AND W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. 

1846. 

TOCAPTAIN ROBERT FITZROY, R. N. THE FOLLOWING WORKIS DEDICATEDAS A TRIBUTE TO HIS DISTINGUISHED MERIT, AND AS A TOKEN OF HEARTFELT GRATITUDE AND RESPECT, BY HIS OLD SHIPMATE AND FAITHFUL FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. 

INTRODUCTION. 

I cannot allow these volumes to go before the public, without expressingmy thanks to the following gentlemen for assistance, afforded to me inthe course of the composition of this work: To Captain Beaufort, R. N. , F. R. S. , Hydrographer to the Admiralty, for his kindness in furnishing mewith some of the accompanying charts; to Sir John Richardson, F. R. S; J. E. Gray, Esquire, F. R. S. ; E. Doubleday, Esquire, F. L. S. , and A. White, Esquire, M. E. S. , for their valuable contributions on Natural History, tobe found in the Appendix; to J. Gould, Esquire, F. R. S. , for a list ofbirds collected during the voyage of the Beagle; to Lieutenants Gore andFitzmaurice, for many of the sketches which illustrate the work; and toB. Bynoe, Esquire, F. R. C. S. , for several interesting papers which will befound dispersed in the following pages. 

Captain Owen Stanley, R. N. , F. R. S. , also merits my warmest thanks, forthe important addition to the work of his visits to the Islands in theArafura Sea. 

I have to explain, that when the name Australasia is used in thefollowing pages, it is intended to include Tasmania (Van Diemen's Land)and all the islands in the vicinity of the Australian continent. 

All bearings and courses, unless it is specified to the contrary, aremagnetic, according to the variation during the period of the Beagle'svoyage. 

The longitudes are generally given from meridians in Australia, as I muchquestion whether any portion of the continent is accurately determinedwith reference to Greenwich. Sydney, Port Essington, and Swan River, havebeen the meridians selected; and the respective positions of thoseplaces, within a minute of the truth, I consider to be as follows:

Swan River (Scott's Jetty, Fremantle) 115 degrees 47 minutes East. 

Port Essington (Government house) 132 degrees 13 minutes East. 

Sydney (Fort Macquarie) 151 degrees 16 minutes East. 

CONTENTS OF VOLUME 1. 

CHAPTER 1. 1. INTRODUCTION. 

Objects of the Voyage. The Beagle commissioned. Her former career. Her first Commander. Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrographer. Officers and Crew. Arrival at Plymouth. Embark Lieutenants Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party. Chronometric Departure. Farewell glance at Plymouth. Death of King William the Fourth. 

CHAPTER 1. 2. PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA. 

Sail from Plymouth. The Eight Stones. Peak of Tenerife. Approach to Santa Cruz. La Cueva de Los Guanches. Trade with Mogadore. Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas. Reason to regret Mombas having been given up. Sail from Tenerife. Search for rocks near the equator. Arrival at San Salvador. Appearance of Bahia. State of the Country. Slave Trade. And results of Slavery. Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast of Africa. Moral condition of the Negroes. Middy's Grave. Departure from Bahia. Mr. "Very Well Dice". 

CHAPTER 1. 3. FROM THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER. 

A gale. Anchor in Simon's Bay. H. M. S. Thalia. Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa. Proceedings of the Land Party. Leave Simon's Bay. An overloaded ship. Heavy weather and wet decks. Island of Amsterdam. Its true longitude. St. Paul's. Water. Westerly variation. Rottnest Island. Gage's Road. Swan River Settlement. Fremantle. An inland lake. Plans for the future. Illness of Captain Wickham. Tidal Phenomena. Perth. Approach to it. Narrow escape of the first settlers. The Darling Range. Abundant Harvest. Singular flight of strange birds. Curious Cliff near Swan River. Bald Head. Mr. Darwin's Theory. The Natives. Miago. Anecdotes of Natives. Their Superstitions. Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons. 

CHAPTER 1. 4. FROM SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY. 

Sail from Gage's Road. Search for a bank. Currents and soundings. Houtman's Abrolhos. Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef. Indications of a squall. Deep sea soundings. Atmospheric Temperature. Fish. A squall. Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay. A heavy squall. Driven from our anchorage. Cape Villaret. Anchor in Roebuck Bay. Excursion on shore. Visit from the Natives. Mr. Bynoe's account of them. A stranger among them. Captain Grey's account of an almost white race in Australia. Birds, Snakes, and Turtle. Move the Ship. Miago, and the Black Fellows. The wicked men of the North. Clouds of Magellan. Face of the Country. Natives. Heat and Sickness. Miago on shore. Mr. Usborne wounded. Failure in Roebuck Bay. Native notions. 

CHAPTER 1. 5. FROM ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT. 

Departure from Roebuck Bay. Appearance of the Country. Progress to the northward. Hills and Cliffs. French Names and French Navigators. Tasman, and his account of the Natives. Hazeygaeys and Assagais. His Authenticity as an Historian. Description of the Natives. Marks and mutilations. Phrenological Development. Moral condition. Proas, Canoes, and Rafts. Another squall. Anchor in Beagle Bay. Face of the Country. Palm Trees. Dew. Hauling the Seine. A meeting with Natives. Eastern Salutation. Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen. Mutilation of the Hand. Native smokes seen. Move further to the North-East. Point Emeriau. Cape Leveque. Point Swan. Tide-races. Search for water. Encountered by Natives. Return to the Ship. The attempt renewed. Conduct of the Natives. Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark. A successful haul. More Natives. Miago's Heroism. The plague of Flies. Dampier's description of it. Native Habitations. Underweigh. Wind and weather. Tidal Phenomenon. Natural History. Singular Kangaroo. Bustard. Cinnamon Kangaroo. Quails. Goanas and Lizards. Ant Hills. Fishing over the side. A day in the Bush. A flood of fire. Soil and Productions. White Ibis. Curious Tree. Rain water. Geology of the Cliffs. Weigh, and graze a Rock, or Touch and go. The Twins. Sunday Strait. Roe's Group. Miago and his friends. A black dog. A day of rest. Native raft. Captain King and the Bathurst. A gale. Point Cunningham. Successful search for water. Native estimation of this fluid. Discovery of a Skeleton. And its removal. The grey Ibis. Our parting legacy. 

CHAPTER 1. 6. POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZROY RIVER. 

Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham. Move the Ship. Mosquitoes. Southern View of King's Sound. Singular vitreous Formation. Move to the south of Point Cunningham. Captain King's limit. Termination of Cliffy Range. Disaster Bay. An Exploring Party leave in the boats. The shore. A freshwater lake. Valentine Island. Native Fire and Food. A heavy squall. The wild Oat. Indications of a River. Point Torment. Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit. Limits of its growth. Another squall. Water nearly fresh alongside. The Fitzroy River. Tide Bore and dangerous position of the Yawl. Ascent of the Fitzroy. Appearance of the adjacent land. Return on foot. Perilous situation and providential escape. Survey the western shore. Return to the Ship. Sporting, Quail and Emus. Natives. Ship moved to Point Torment. 

CHAPTER 1. 7. THE FITZROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TOSWAN RIVER. 

Examination of the Fitzroy River. Excursion into the interior. Alarm of the Natives. Ascent of the River. Sufferings from Mosquitoes. Red Sandstone. Natives again surprised. Appearance of the Country. Impediments in the River. Return of the boats. An Alligator. Stokes' Bay. Narrow escape of an Officer. Change of Landscape. Pheasant-Cuckoos. A new Vine. Compass Hill. Port Usborne. Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. Cone Bay. Native Fires. Whirlpool Channel. Group of Islands. Sterile aspect of the Coast. Visited by a Native. Bathurst Island. Native Hut and Raft. Return to Port Usborne. Native Spears. Cascade Bay. Result of Explorations in King's Sound. Interview with Natives. Coral Reefs. Discover Beagle Bank. Arrival at Port George the Fourth. Examination of Collier Bay in the boats. Brecknock Harbour. The Slate Islands. Freshwater Cove. An Eagle shot. Its singular nest. Rock Kangaroos. A Conflagration. Sandstone Ridges. Doubtful Bay. Mouth of the Glenelg. Remarkable Tree. Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour. Return to the Ship. Meet with Lieutenant Grey. His sufferings and discoveries. Visit the Encampment. Timor Ponies. Embarkation of Lieutenant Grey's Party. Sail from Port George the Fourth. Remarks on position of Tryal Rock. Anecdotes of Miago. Arrival at Swan River. Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage. 

CHAPTER 1. 8. SWAN RIVER TO SYDNEY. 

Miago's reception by his countrymen. Whale Fishery. Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers. Neglected state of the Colony. Test security of Owen's Anchorage. Weather. Celebration of the Anniversary of the Colony. Friendly meeting between different Tribes. Native beggars. Personal vanity of a Native. Visit York. Description of Country. Site of York. Scenery in its neighbourhood. Disappointment experienced. Sail from Swan River. Hospitality of Colonists during our stay. Aurora Australis. Gale off Cape Leeuwen. Stormy passage. Ship on a lee shore. South-west Cape of Tasmania. Bruny Island Lighthouse. Arrive at Hobart. Mount Wellington. Kangaroo Hunt. White Kangaroo. Civility from the Governor. Travertine Limestone. Leave Hobart. Singular Current. Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney. Position of Lighthouse. Entrance and first view of Port Jackson. Scenery on passing up the Harbour. Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington. Apparent increase of Sydney. Cause of Decline. Expedition sails for Port Essington. Illawarra. Botany Bay. La Perouse's Monument. Aborigines. Meet Captain King. Appearance of Land near Sydney. 

CHAPTER 1. 9. BASS STRAIT. 

Leave Sydney. Enter Bass Strait. Island at Eastern entrance. Wilson's Promontory. Cape Shanck. Enter Port Phillip. Tide-race. Commence Surveying Operations. First Settlement. Escaped Convict. His residence with the Natives. Sail for King Island. Examine Coast to Cape Otway. King Island. Meet Sealers on New Year Islands. Franklin Road. Solitary Residence of Captain Smith. Soil. Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement. Leafless appearance of Trees. Examine West Coast. Fitzmaurice Bay. Stokes' Point. Seal Bay. Geological Formation. Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock. Brig Rock. Cross the Strait to Hunter Island. Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks. Three Hummock Island. Rats. The Black Pyramid. Point Woolnorth. Raised Beach. Coast to Circular Head. Headquarters of the Agricultural Company. Capture of a Native. Mouth of the Tamar River. Return to Port Phillip. West Channel. Yarra-yarra River. Melbourne. Custom of Natives. Manna. Visit Geelong. Station Peak. Aboriginal Names. South Channel. Examine Western Port. Adventure with a Snake. Black Swans. Cape Patterson. Deep Soundings. Revisit King and Hunter Islands. Fire. Circular Head. Gales of Wind. Reid's Rocks. Sea Elephant Rock. Wild Dogs. Navarin and Harbinger Reefs. Arrive at Port Phillip. Sail for Sydney. Pigeon House. Drought. Mr. Usborne leaves. 

CHAPTER 1. 10. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON. 

Leave Sydney. Gale and Current. Port Stephens. Tahlee. River Karuah. Stroud. Wild Cattle. Incivility of a Settler. River Allyn. Mr. Boydell. Cultivation of Tobacco. A clearing Lease. William River. Crossing the Karuah at Night. Sail from Port Stephens. Breaksea Spit. Discover a Bank. Cape Capricorn. Northumberland Isles. Sandalwood. Cape Upstart. Discover a River. Raised Beach. Section of Barrier Reef. Natives. Plants and Animals. Magnetical Island. Halifax Bay. Height of Cordillera. Fitzroy Island. Hope Island. Verifying Captain King's Original Chart. Cape Bedford. New Geological Feature. Lizard Island. Captain Cook. Barrier and Reefs within. Howick Group. Noble Island. Cape Melville. Reef near Cape Flinders. Princess Charlotte's Bay. Section of a detached Reef. Tide at Claremont Isles. Restoration Island. Islands fronting Cape Grenville. Boydan Island. Correct Chart. Tides. Cairncross Island. Escape River. Correct position of Reefs. York Isles. Tides. Torres Strait. Endeavour Strait. Booby Island. Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs. Cape Croker and reef off it. Discover error in longitude of Cape. Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington. Arrive at the latter. 

CHAPTER 1. 11. 

Port Essington. Bearings from shoals in the Harbour. Appearance of the Settlement. Meet Captain Stanley. Church. Point Record. Prospects of the Settlement. Buffaloes escape. Fence across neck of Peninsula. Lieutenant P. B. Stewart explores the Country. Natives. Uses of Sand. Tumuli-building Birds. Beautiful Opossum. Wild Bees. Escape from an Alligator. Result of Astronomical Observations. Geological Formation. Raffles Bay. Leave Port Essington. Popham Bay. Detect error in position of Port Essington. Melville Island. Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait. Cape Hotham. Native Huts and Clothing. Geological Formation. Discover the Adelaide River. Interview with Natives. Attempt to come on board. Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared. Exploration of the Adelaide. Its capabilities. Wood-ducks. Vampires. Another party ascends the Adelaide. Meet Natives. Canoes. Alligator. Visit Melville Island. Green Ants. Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned. Tides in Dundas Strait. Return to Port Essington. Theatricals. H. M. S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions. Further remarks on the Colony. 

CHAPTER 1. 12. 

Leave Port Essington. Reach Timor Laut. Meet Proas. Chief Lomba. Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton. Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island. Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors. Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and massacre of the Crew. Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut. Description of the Inhabitants. Dress. Leprosy. Canoes. Village of Oliliet. Curious Houses. Remarkable Ornaments. Visit the Oran Kaya. Burial Islet. Supplies obtained. Gunpowder in request as Barter. Proceed to the Arru Islands. Dobbo Harbour. Trade. Present to Chief. Birds of Paradise. Chinaming Junks' bottoms. Character of Natives. Some of them profess Christianity. Visit the Ki Islands. Village of Ki Illi. How protected. Place of Worship. Pottery. Timber. Boat-building. Cultivation of the eastern Ki. No anchorage off it. Visit Ki Doulan. Antique Appearance of. Luxuriant Vegetation. Employment of Natives. Defences of the place. Carvings on gateway. Civility of Chief. His Dress. Population of the Ki Group. Their Religion. Trade. Place of Interment. Agility of Australian Native. Supplies. Anchorage off Ki Doulan. Island of Vordate. Visit from Chief. Excitement of Natives. Their Arms and Ornaments. Carved Horns on Houses. Alarm of the Oran Kaya. Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch. Revisit Oliliet. Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy. Return to Port Essington. Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut. 

. . . 

APPENDIX. 

List of Birds, collected by the Officers of H. M. S. Beagle. 

Descriptions of Six Fish. By Sir John Richardson. M. D. , F. R. S. Etc. 

Descriptions of some New Australian Reptiles. By J. E. Gray, EsquireF. R. S. Etc. 

Descriptions of new or unfigured Species of Coleoptera from Australia. ByAdam White, Esquire M. E. S. 

Descriptions of some new or imperfectly characterized Lepidoptera fromAustralia. By E. Doubleday, Esquire F. L. S. 

LIST OF CHARTS. 

VOLUME 1. 

GENERAL CHART OF AUSTRALIA. 

BASS STRAIT. 

ARAFURA SEA. 

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

VOLUME 1. 

NATIVES OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA. I. R. Fitzmaurice del. 

SOUTH BRANCH OF THE ALBERT RIVER. G. GORE del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. 

NATIVE HABITATION. 

SINGULAR TAIL OF KANGAROO. Natural size. 

ROCKS ON ROE'S GROUP. 

NATIVE RAFT. 

KILEYS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER. 1/24th of the usual size. 

SUBSTANTIAL NATIVE HUT. 

SPEARS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER. 

MONUMENT TO LA PEROUSE. 

CIRCULAR HEAD. South-South-East Six Miles. 

REID'S ROCKS, KING ISLAND AND THE BLACK PYRAMID. 

SECTION OF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA, AND GREAT BARRIER REEF. Horizontal Scale of 20 miles. Vertical Scale of 2000 feet. A. Cape Upstart, 2000 feet high. B. Bay within 3 fathoms deep. C. Raised bed of coral and shells, 12 feet high. D. Depth 17 fathoms, fine grey sand and shells. E. 27 fathoms, grey sandy mud or marl, which after exposure to the airbecomes very hard. F. 32 fathoms, coarse sand. G. Great Barrier Reef, outer part uncertain, being taken from the widthof it nearH. No bottom, with 200 fathoms. I. Level of sea at high-water; rise of tide 7 feet. 

NORTH-WEST PART OF MAGNETIC ISLAND. G. Gore del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. 

MOUNT HINCHINBROOK. West-North-West 35 Miles. 

SECTION OF A DETACHED CORAL REEF IN LATITUDE 14 DEGREES SOUTH, WITHIN THEBARRIER REEF OF AUSTRALIA. The point C (on the edge of the reef C) stands two feet above waterlineG, and the point D 1 1/2 feet above it. The depth of water in the lagoonexaggerated in section. Figures on line denote depth of water in feetbeneath. G level of sea in a mean state. 

RUSH SHOULDER-COVERING OF NATIVES. 

VICTORIA FROM THE ANCHORAGE. 

NATIVE TOWN OF OLILIET. O. Stanley del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. 

FISHES. 

FISHES. PLATE 1. FIGURES 1, 2, 3. Cristiceps axillaris. Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. 

FISHES. PLATE 1. FIGURES 4, 5. Balistes phaleratus. Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. 

FISHES. PLATE 2. FIGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Assiculus punctatus. Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. 

FISHES. PLATE 2. FIGURES 6, 7, 8, 9. Natural size. Scorpaena stokesii. Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. 

FISHES. PLATE 3. Smaris porosus. Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. 

FISHES. PLATE 4. Chelmon marginalis. Drawn on Stone by W. Mitchell. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers. 

REPTILES. 

REPTILES. PLATE 1. Silubosaurus stokesii. Day & Haghe, Lithographers to the Queen. 

REPTILES. PLATE 2. Egernia cunninghami. Day & Haghe, Lithographers to the Queen. 

REPTILES. PLATE 3. Hydrus stokesii. Day & Haghe, Lithographers to the Queen. 

REPTILES. PLATE 4. Gonionotus plumbeus. W. Wing Litho. C. Hullmandel's Patent. 

INSECTS. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 1, 1a, 1b and 1c. Megacephala Australasiae, Hope. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 2 and 2a. Aenigma cyanipenne, Hope. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 3, 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e and 3f. Calloodesgrayianus, White. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 4, and 4a. Biphyllocera kirbyana, White. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 5. Cetonia (Diaphonia) notabilis. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 6. Stigmodera elegantula. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 7. Stigmodera erythrura. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURE 8. Stigmodera saundersii, Hope. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1. FIGURES 9, 9a, and 9b. Clerus ? obesus. 

. . . 

CHAPTER 1. 1. INTRODUCTION. 

Objects of the Voyage. The Beagle commissioned. Her former career. Her first Commander. Instructions from the Admiralty and the Hydrographer. Officers and Crew. Arrival at Plymouth. Embark Lieutenants Grey and Lushington's Exploring Party. Chronometric Departure. Farewell glance at Plymouth. Death of King William the Fourth. 

For more than half a century, the connection between Great Britain andher Australian possessions has been one of growing interest; and men ofthe highest eminence have foreseen and foretold the ultimate importanceof that vast continent, over which, within the memory of living man, theroving savage held precarious though unquestioned empire. 

Of the Australian shores, the North-western was the least known, andbecame, towards the close of the year 1836, a subject of muchgeographical speculation. Former navigators were almost unanimous inbelieving that the deep bays known to indent a large portion of thiscoast, received the waters of extensive rivers, the discovery of whichwould not only open a route to the interior, but afford facilities forcolonizing a part of Australia, so near our East Indian territories, asto render its occupation an object of evident importance. 

His Majesty's Government therefore determined to send out an expeditionto explore and survey such portions of the Australian coasts as werewholly or in part unknown to Captains Flinders and King. 

H. M. SLOOP BEAGLE. 

For this service H. M. Sloop Beagle was commissioned at Woolwich, in thesecond week of February 1837 by Commander Wickham, who had already twiceaccompanied her in her wanderings over the least known and mostboisterous waters of the globe; first, in her sister ship of discovery, the Adventure, Captain King, and afterwards as first lieutenant of thesloop now entrusted to his command. Under Captain Wickham some of themost important objects of the voyage were achieved, but in consequence ofhis retirement in March 1841, owing to ill health, the command of theBeagle was entrusted to the author of the following pages; and as, by asingular combination of circumstances, no less than three long andhazardous voyages of discovery have been successfully completed in thisvessel, some account of her here may not be wholly uninteresting. Thereader will be surprised to learn that she belongs to that much-abusedclass, the 10-gun brigs--COFFINS, as they are not infrequently designatedin the service; notwithstanding which, she has proved herself, underevery possible variety of trial, in all kinds of weather, an excellentsea boat. She was built at Woolwich in 1819, and her first exploit wasthe novel and unprecedented one of passing through old London bridge (thefirst rigged man-of-war that had ever floated so high upon the waters ofthe Thames) in order to salute at the coronation of King George theFourth. 

VOYAGES OF THE BEAGLE. 

Towards the close of the year 1825 she was first commissioned byCommander Pringle Stokes, * as second officer of the expedition whichsailed from Plymouth on the 22nd of May, 1826, under the command ofCaptain Phillip Parker King; an account of which voyage, published byCaptain R. Fitzroy, who ultimately succeeded to the vacancy occasioned bythe lamented death of Captain Stokes, and who subsequently commanded theBeagle during her second solitary, but most interesting expedition--hasadded to the well-earned reputation of the seaman, the more enduringlaurels which literature and science can alone supply. 

(*Footnote. Not related to the author. )

DEATH OF CAPTAIN STOKES. 

Though painful recollections surround the subject, it would be hardlypossible to offer an account of the earlier history of the Beagle, andyet make no allusion to the fate of her first commander, in whom theservice lost, upon the testimony of one well qualified to judge, "anactive, intelligent, and most energetic officer:" and well has it beenremarked by the same high authority, "that those who have been exposed toone of such trials as his, upon an unknown lee shore, during the worstdescription of weather, will understand and appreciate some of thosefeelings which wrought too powerfully upon his excitable mind. " Theconstant and pressing cares connected with his responsible commanded--thehardships and the dangers to which his crew were of necessity exposedduring the survey of Tierra del Fuego--and in some degree the awful gloomwhich rests forever on that storm-swept coast--finally destroyed theequilibrium of a mind distracted with anxiety and shattered by disease. 

Perhaps no circumstance could prove more strongly the peculiardifficulties connected with a service of this nature, nor could any moreclearly testify that in this melancholy instance every thought ofself-preservation was absorbed by a zeal to promote the objects of theexpedition, which neither danger, disappointment, anxiety, nor diseasecould render less earnest, or less vigilant, even to the last!

The two vessels returned to England in October, 1830, when the Adventurewas paid off at Woolwich, and the Beagle at Plymouth; she wasrecommissioned by Captain Fitzroy--to whose delightful narrative allusionhas been already made--on the 4th July, 1831, * and continued under hiscommand till her return to Woolwich in November, 1836; where, afterundergoing some slight repairs, she was a third time put in commissionfor the purposes of discovery, under Commander Wickham, her former firstlieutenant; and shortly afterwards commenced that third voyage, of thetoils and successes of which, as an humble contribution to the stores ofgeographical knowledge, I have attempted in the following pages to conveyas faithful and complete an account as the circumstances under which thematerials have been prepared will allow. Nor will the subject lessinterest myself, when I call to mind, that for eighteen years the Beaglehas been to me a home upon the wave--that my first cruise as a Middy wasmade in her; that serving in her alone I have passed through every gradein my profession to the rank I have now the honour to hold--that in her Ihave known the excitements of imminent danger, and the delights of longanticipated success; and that with her perils and her name are connectedthose recollections of early and familiar friendship, to which evenmemory herself fails to do full justice!

(*Footnote. The Beagle was stripped to her timbers, and rebuilt underthis able officer's own inspection: and among other improvements, she hadthe lightning conductors of the well-known Snow Harris, Esquire, F. R. S. Fitted to her masts; a circumstance to which she has more than once beenindebted for her safety. )

ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 

The following instructions were received by Captain Wickham, previous toour departure from Woolwich, and under them I subsequently acted. 

BY THE COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF THEUNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, ETC. 

Whereas his Majesty's surveying vessel, Beagle, under your command, hasbeen fitted out for the purpose of exploring certain parts of thenorth-west coast of New Holland, and of surveying the best channels inthe straits of Bass and Torres, you are hereby required and directed, assoon as she shall be in all respects ready, to repair to Plymouth Sound, in order to obtain a chronometric departure from the west end of thebreakwater, and then to proceed, with all convenient expedition, to SantaCruz, in Tenerife. 

In the voyage there, you are to endeavour to pass over the reputed siteof the Eight Stones, within the limits pointed out by our Hydrographer;but keeping a strict lookout for any appearance of discoloured water, andgetting a few deep casts of the lead. 

At Tenerife you are to remain three days, for the purpose of rating thechronometers, when you are to make the best of your way to Bahia, inorder to replenish your water, and from thence to Simon's Bay, at theCape of Good Hope; where, having without loss of time obtained thenecessary refreshments, you will proceed direct to Swan River; but as thesevere gales which are sometimes felt at that settlement may not haveentirely ceased, you will approach that coast with due caution. 

At Swan River, you are to land Lieutenants Grey and Lushington, as wellas to refit and water with all convenient despatch; and you are then toproceed immediately to the north-west coast of New Holland, making thecoast in the vicinity of Dampier Land. The leading objects of yourexamination there will be, the extent of the two deep inlets connectedwith Roebuck Bay and Cygnet Bay, where the strength and elevation of thetides have led to the supposition that Dampier Land is an island, andthat the above openings unite in the mouth of a river, or that theybranch off from a wide and deep gulf. Moderate and regular soundingsextend far out from Cape Villaret: you will, therefore, in the firstinstance, make that headland; and, keeping along the southern shore ofRoebuck Bay, penetrate at once as far as the Beagle and her boats canfind sufficient depth of water; but you must, however, take care not tooprecipitately to commit His Majesty's ship among these rapid tides, norto entangle her among the numerous rocks with which all this part of thecoast seems to abound; but by a cautious advance of your boats, for thedouble purpose of feeling your way, and at the same time of surveying, you will establish her in a judicious series of stations, equallybeneficial to the progress of the survey, and to the support of yourdetached people. 

Prince Regent River appears to have been fully examined by Captain Kingup to its freshwater rapids, but as the adjacent ridges of rocky landwhich were seen on both sides of Collier Bay, were only laid down fromtheir distant appearance, it is probable that they will resolvethemselves into a collection of islands in the rear of Dampier Land; andit is possible that they may form avenues to some wide expanse of water, or to the mouth of some large river, the discovery of which would behighly interesting. 

As this question, whether there are or are not any rivers of magnitude onthe western coast is one of the principal objects of the expedition, youwill leave no likely opening unexplored, nor desist from its examinationtill fully satisfied; but as no estimate can be formed of the timerequired for its solution, so no period can be here assigned at which youshall abandon it in order to obtain refreshments; when that necessity isfelt, it must be left to your own judgment, whether to have recourse tothe town Balli, in the strait of Allas, or to the Dutch settlement ofCoepang, or even to the Arrou Islands, which have been described asplaces well adapted for that purpose; but on these points you will takepains to acquire all the information which can be obtained from theresidents at Swan River. 

Another circumstance which prevents any precise instructions being givento you on this head, is the uncertainty that prevails here respecting theweather which you may at that period find in those latitudes, and whichit is possible may be such as if not altogether to prevent the executionof these orders, may at least cause them to be ineffectually performed, or perhaps lead to a waste of time, which might be better employed onother parts of the coast. If such should eventually be the case, it wouldbe prudent not to attempt this intricate part of the coast during theprevalence of the north-west monsoon, but to employ it in completing theexamination of Shark Bay and of Exmouth Gulf, as well as of otherunexplored intervals of coast up to the 122nd degree of longitude; or, with a view to the proximity of one of the above-mentioned places ofrefreshment, it might, perhaps, be advisable, if compelled to quit thevicinity of Dampier Land, to devote that part of the season to a morecareful investigation of the low shores of the gulf of Carpentaria, whereit has been surmised, though very loosely, that rivers of some capacitywill be found. 

The above objects having been accomplished (in whatever order you mayfind suitable to the service) you will return to the southern settlementsfor refreshments; and then proceed, during the summer months of fineweather and long days, to Bass Strait, in which so many fatal accidentshave recently occurred, and of which you are to make a correct andeffectual survey. 

But previous to your undertaking that survey, as it has been representedto us that it would be very desirable for the perfection of the Tidaltheory, that an accurate register of the times and heights of high andlow-water should be kept for some time in Bass Strait, you will (ifpracticable) establish a party for that purpose on King Island, and youare to cause the above particulars of the Tides there to beunintermittently and minutely observed, and registered in the blank formswhich will be supplied to you by our Hydrographer. If, however, circumstances should render this measure unadvisable at that island, youwill either choose some less objectionable station, where the averagetide in the Strait may be fairly registered; or, if you can employ nopermanent party on this service, you will be the more exact inascertaining the above particulars at every one of your stations; and inall parts of this Strait you will carefully note the set and strength ofthe stream at the intermediate hours between high and low-water, and alsothe time at which the stream turns in the offing. 

The survey of Bass Strait should include, first, a verification of thetwo shores by which it is formed; secondly, such a systematicrepresentation of the depth and quality of the bottom as will ensure toany vessel, which chooses to sound by night or day, a correct knowledgeof her position; and, thirdly, a careful examination of the passages oneither side of King Island, as well as through the chains of rocks andislands which stretch across from Wilson's Promontory to Cape Portland. This survey will, of course, comprehend the approach to Port Dalrymple, but the interior details of that extensive harbour may be left to theofficers employed by the Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen's Land, provided you can ascertain that it is his intention to employ them therewithin any reasonable time. 

The number of vessels which are now in the habit of passing through BassStrait, and the doubts which have recently been expressed, not only ofthe just position of the dangers it is known to contain, but of theexistence of others, show the necessity of this survey being executedwith that care and fidelity which will give confidence to all futurenavigators; and may, therefore, be more extensive in its limits, andoccupy a larger portion of your time than is at present contemplated. Youmust exercise your own judgment as to the fittest period at which youshould either repair to Sydney to refit, or adjourn to Port Dalrymple toreceive occasional supplies. Whenever this branch of the service shall becompleted, you are forthwith by a safe conveyance to transmit a copy ofit to our Secretary, that no time may be lost in publishing it for thegeneral benefit. 

At Sydney you will find the stores which we have ordered to be depositedthere for your use, and having carefully rated your chronometers, andtaken a fresh departure from the Observatory near that port, and havingre-equipped His Majesty's ship, and fully completed her provisions, youwill proceed by the inner route to Torres Strait, where the most arduousof your duties are yet to be performed. The numerous reefs which block upthat Strait; the difficulty of entering its intricate channels; thediscordant result of the many partial surveys which have from time totime been made there, and the rapidly increasing commerce of which it hasbecome the thoroughfare, call for a full and satisfactory examination ofthe whole space between Cape York and the southern shore of New Guinea, and to this important service, therefore, you will devote the remainingperiod for which your supplies will last. 

In this latter survey you will cautiously proceed from the known to theunknown; you will verify the safety of Endeavour Strait, and furnishsufficient remarks for avoiding its dangers; you will examine the threegroups called York, Prince of Wales, and Banks, Islands; you willestablish the facilities or determine the dangers of passing throughthose groups, and by a well-considered combination of all those results, you will clearly state the comparative advantages of the differentchannels, and finally determine on the best course for vessels to pursuewhich shall be going in either direction, or in opposite seasons. Thoughwith this part of your operations Cook's Bank, Aurora Reef, and the othershoals in the vicinity will necessarily be connected, yet you are not toextend them to the 143rd degree of longitude, as the examination of thegreat field to the eastward of that meridian must be left to some futuresurvey which shall include the barrier reefs and their ramified openingsfrom the Pacific Ocean. You are, on the contrary, to proceed, ifpracticable, but most cautiously, in examining the complicatedarchipelago of rocks and islands which line the northern side of TorresStrait, till, at length, reaching New Guinea, you will there ascertainthe general character of that part of its shore, whether it be high andcontinuous, or broken into smaller islands with available channelsbetween them, as has been asserted; or whether, from being guarded by theinnumerable reefs and dangers which are marked in the charts, it mustremain altogether sealed to the navigator. The nature of the country, aswell as of its products, will also be inquiries of considerable interest;and you will, perhaps, be able to learn whether the Dutch have made anyprogress in forming settlements along its shores; and if so, you willtake especial care not to come into collision with any of theirauthorities. 

Throughout the whole of this extensive region, you will bear in mind themischievous disposition of the natives; and while you strictly practicethat dignified forbearance and benevolence which tend to impress farhigher respect for our power than the exercise of mere force, you willalso be sedulously on your guard against every surprise; and though yourboats should always be completely armed, you will carefully avoid anyconflict where the ignorant or misguided natives may presume on yourpacific appearance, or on the disparity of your numbers. 

You will then turn to the westward, and pursue this part of the survey, so as to determine the breadth of the foul ground off the coast of NewGuinea, and the continuity or interrupted form of that coast; and youwill establish certain positions on the mainland (if the adjacent sea benavigable, and if not on the several advancing islands) which may serveas useful land-falls for vessels coming from the Indian Seas, or forpoints of departure for those who have passed through any of thesestraits. You will thus continue a general examination of this hithertounexplored coast as far as Cape Valsche, which is now said to be only theterminating point of a chain of large islands, and then across to theArrou Islands, which are supposed to be remarkably fertile, to aboundwith resources and refreshments, and to be peopled by a harmless andindustrious race, but which do not appear to have been visited by any ofHis Majesty's ships. 

The length of time which may be required for the due execution of all theforegoing objects cannot be foreseen. It may exceed that for which yoursupplies are calculated, or, on the other hand, a less degree of thesupposed complexity in the ground you will have traversed, along with theenergy and diligence with which we rely on you for conducting theseimportant services, may enable you to complete them within that period. In this latter case you will return to the Northern coast of New Holland, and selecting such parts of it as may afford useful harbours of retreat, or which may appear to comprise the mouths of any streams of magnitude, you will employ your spare time in such discoveries as may more or lesstend to the general object of the expedition. 

Before your departure from Sydney you will have learnt that His Majesty'sGovernment has established a new settlement at Port Essington, orsomewhere on the North coast of New Holland; and before you finallyabandon that district you will visit this new colony, and contribute byevery means in your power to its resources and its stability. 

We have not, in the concluding part of these Orders, pointed out theplaces or the periods at which you are to replenish your provisions, because the latter must depend on various circumstances which cannot beforeseen, and the former may be safely left to your own decision andprudence; but when you have been three years on your ground, unless somevery important result were to promise itself from an extension of thatperiod, you will proceed to the Island of Mauritius, in order to completeyour stock of water and provisions, and then, touching at either side ofthe Cape of Good Hope, according to the season, and afterwards atAscension, you will make the best of your way to Spithead, and reportyour arrival to our Secretary. 

Directions will be forwarded to the commanders-in-chief at the Cape ofGood Hope and in the East Indies, and to the governors orlieutenant-governors of the several settlements at which you have beenordered to call, to assist and further your enterprise as far as theirmeans will admit: and you will lose no opportunity, at those severalplaces, of informing our Secretary of the general outline of yourproceedings, and of transmitting traces of the surveys which you may haveeffected, together with copies of your tide and other observations. Youwill likewise, by every safe opportunity, communicate to our Hydrographerdetailed accounts of all your proceedings which relate to the surveys;and you will strictly comply with the enclosed instructions, which havebeen drawn up by him under our directions, as well as all those which hemay, from time to time, forward by our command. 

Given under our hands, the 8th of June, 1837. 

Signed, Charles Adam. 

George Elliott. 

To J. C. Wickham, Esquire. 

Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel Beagle, at Woolwich. 

By command of their Lordships. 

Signed, John Barrow. 

. . . 

Nor should the valuable instructions of Captain Beaufort, Hydrographer tothe Admiralty, be forgotten; such extracts as may probably prove ofinterest to the general reader are here subjoined. 

EXTRACTS FROM HYDROGRAPHER'S INSTRUCTIONS. 

The general objects of the expedition which has been placed under yourcommand, having been set forth in their Lordship's orders, it becomes myduty to enter somewhat more specifically into the nature and details ofthe service which you are to perform. Their Lordships having expressedthe fullest reliance on your zeal and talents, and having cautiously andwisely abstained from fettering you in that division and disposition ofyour time which the periodic changes of the seasons or the necessities ofthe vessel may require, it would ill become me to enter too minutely intoany of those arrangements which have been so flatteringly left to yourdiscretion; yet, in order to assist you with the results of thatexperience which has been derived from the many surveys carried on underthe direction of the Admiralty, and to ensure that uniform consistency ofmethod in your varied labours, which will so greatly enhance their value, I will briefly touch on some of the most important subjects, and repeatthose instructions which their Lordships have in every former caseratified, and which it is therefore expected you will bear in mind duringthe whole progress of your survey. 

The first point to which your orders advert, after quitting England, isthe Eight Stones, where you will probably add one to the many testimonieswhich have been already collected of their non-existence, at least in theplace assigned to them in the old charts; but, before we venture toexpunge them, it becomes a serious duty to traverse their position inevery possible direction. Should the weather be favourable, it would bedesirable, while crossing their parallel, to obtain one very deep cast ofthe lead, and should that succeed in reaching the bottom, the sacrificeof a few days will be well bestowed in endeavouring to trace a furtherportion of the bank. A small chart, showing the tracks of various shipsacross this place, is hereto annexed, and as the meridian of 16 degrees22 minutes nearly bisects the two adjacent courses, you are recommendedto cross their parallel in that longitude. 

From the Canary Islands to the coast of Brazil, and indeed throughoutevery part of your voyage, you should endeavour to pass over the placesof all the reported Vigias which lie near your course, either outward orhomeward. You will perceive a multitude of them carelessly marked onevery chart, but of some you will find a circumstantial description inthat useful publication, the Nautical Magazine, and a day devoted to thesearch of any, which will not withdraw you too far from your due course, will be well employed. 

The rocks off Cape Leeuwin, some near King George Sound, the dangerouspatch off Kangaroo Island, and many others, of which accounts are givenin the above work, ought, if possible, to be examined, as moreimmediately appertaining to your own field. Whenever found, the depth, nature, and limits of the banks on which they stand, should bedetermined, as they might prove to be of sufficient extent to givewarning to the danger, and then a direct course should be immediatelymade by the Beagle to the nearest land, where a convenient place shouldbe selected, and its position carefully ascertained. 

At Swan River you will have previously learnt from Lieutenant Roe, theSurveyor-General, whether the above-mentioned rocks off Kangaroo Island, have been again seen, or their position altered, since Captain Brockman'sfirst description, so as to save your time in the search. 

You will no doubt obtain from that intelligent officer, Lieutenant Roe, much important information respecting the north-west coast, as well asall the detached intelligence, which during his long residence there hemust have collected, relating to every part of the shores of New Holland. From him, also, you will acquire many useful hints about the places inthe Indian Sea where refreshments may be obtained, as well as someinsight into the disposition of the authorities and the inhabitants whomyou will meet there, and he will probably be able to give you a clearaccount of the duration of the monsoons and their accompanying weather. 

If at Port Dalrymple it should so happen that you can wait on Sir JohnFranklin, it is probable that he will detach Lieutenant Burnett tocooperate with you in the survey of Bass Strait, and it is certain thatthe Governor will do everything in his power to assist your labours. AtSydney you will have the advantage of seeing Captain P. P. King, whoselong experience of all those coasts, as well as of the seasons, and ofthe manner of dealing with the inhabitants, will be of the utmost use toyou; and whose zeal for the King's service, and whose love of science, will lead him to do everything possible to promote your views. If Mr. Cunningham, the Government Botanist, be there, he also will, I amconvinced, eagerly communicate to you and your officers everything whichmay be serviceable in the pursuits connected with Natural History. 

At Swan River, at Port Dalrymple, and at Sydney, it may, perhaps, bepossible for you to hire, at a low rate, some person acquainted with thedialects of the natives, which you are subsequently to visit, and withwhom it will be so essential to be on friendly terms. Such a person willgreatly assist in that object; but you will keep him on board no longerthan absolutely necessary, and you will take care to provide for hisreturn if the Beagle should not be able to carry him back. 

GENERAL INFORMATION. 

In such an extensive and distant survey, numerous subjects of inquiry, though not strictly nautical, will suggest themselves to your activemind; and though, from your transient stay at any other place, you willoften experience the mortification of leaving them incomplete, yet thatshould not discourage you in the collection of every useful fact withinyour reach. Your example in this respect will stimulate the efforts ofthe younger officers under your command, and through them may even have abeneficial influence on the future character of the navy. 

It has been suggested by some geologists, that the coral insect, insteadof raising its superstructure directly from the bottom of the sea, worksonly on the summits of submarine mountains, which have been projectedupwards by volcanic action. They account, therefore, for the basin-likeform so generally observed in coral islands, by supposing that they existon the circular lip of extinct volcanic craters; and as much of your workwill lie among islands and cays of coral formation, you should collectevery fact which can throw any light on the subject. 

Hitherto it has been made a part of the duty of all the surveying vesselsto keep an exact register of the height of the barometer, at its twomaxima of 9, and its two minima of 3 o'clock, as well as that of thethermometer at the above periods, and at its own day and night maximumand minimum, as well as the continual comparative temperature of the seaand air. This was done with the view of assisting to provide authenticdata, collected from all parts of the world, and ready for the use offuture labourers, whenever some accidental discovery, or the direction ofsome powerful mind, should happily rescue that science from its presentneglected state. But those hours of entry greatly interfere with theemployments of such officers as are capable of registering thoseinstruments with the precision and delicacy which alone can rendermeteorologic data useful, and their future utility is at present souncertain, that it does not appear necessary that you should do more thanrecord, twice a day, the height of the former, as well as the extremes ofthe thermometer, unless, from some unforeseen cause, you should be longdetained in any one port, when a system of these observations might thenbe advantageously undertaken. There are, however, some occasionalobservations, which cannot fail of being extensively useful in futureinvestigations:

1. During the approach of the periodic changes of wind and weather, andthen the hygrometer, also, should find a place in the journal. 

2. The mean temperature of the sea at the equator, or, perhaps, under avertical sun. These observations should be repeated whenever the ship isin either of those situations, as well in the Atlantic as in the Pacific;they should be made far away from the influence of the land, and atcertain constant depths, suppose fifty and ten fathoms, and at thesurface also; and this last ought to be again observed at thecorresponding hour of the night. 

3. A collection of good observations, systematically continued, for thepurpose of connecting the isothermal lines of the globe, and made, asabove, at certain uniform depths. 

4. Some very interesting facts might result from the comparison of thedirect heat of the solar rays in high and low latitudes. The twothermometers for this purpose should be precisely similar in everyrespect; the ball of the one should be covered with white kerseymere, andof the other with black kerseymere, and they should be suspended far outof the reach of any reflected heat from the ship, and also at the sameelevation above the surface of the water; the observations should be madeout of sight of land, in a variety of latitudes, and at different hoursof the day, and every pains taken to render them all strictly similar andcomparative. 

5. All your meteorologic instruments should be carefully comparedthroughout a large extent of the scales, and tabulated for the purpose ofapplying the requisite corrections when necessary, and one or more ofthem should be compared with the standard instruments at the RoyalSociety or Royal Observatory on your return home. 

6. All observations which involve the comparison of minute differencesshould be the mean result of at least three readings, and should be asmuch as possible the province of the same individual observer. 

7. In some of those singularly heavy showers which occur in crossing theEquator, and also at the changes of the Monsoon, attempts should be madeto measure the quantity of rain that falls in a given time. A very rudeinstrument, if properly placed, will answer this purpose, merely a widesuperficial basin to receive the rain, and to deliver it into a pipe, whose diameter, compared with that of the mouth of the basin, will showthe number of inches, etc. That have fallen on an exaggerated scale. 

8. It is unnecessary to call your attention to the necessity of recordingevery circumstance connected with that highly interesting phenomenon, theAurora Australis, such as the angular bearing and elevation of the pointof coruscation; the bearing also of the principal luminous arches, etc. 

9. It has been asserted that lunar and solar halos are not always exactlycircular, and a general order might, therefore, be given to the officerof the watch, to measure their vertical and horizontal diameters wheneverthey occur, day or night. 

Large collections of natural history cannot be expected, nor anyconnected account of the structure or geological arrangements of thegreat islands which you are to coast; nor, indeed, would minute inquirieson these subjects be at all consistent with the true objects of thesurvey. But, to an observant eye, some facts will unavoidably presentthemselves, which will be well worth recording, and the medical officerswill, no doubt, be anxious to contribute their share to the scientificcharacter of the survey. 

I have now exhausted every subject to which it can be necessary to callthe attention of an officer of your long experience; and I have, therefore, only further to express my conviction, that if Providencepermits you to retain your wonted health and activity, you will pursuethe great objects of this expedition with all the energy in your power, and with all the perseverance consistent with a due regard to the safetyof His Majesty's Ship, and to the comfort of your officers and crew. 

Given, etc. This 8th of June, 1837. 

F. Beaufort, Hydrographer. 

. . . 

OFFICERS AND CREW. 

The crew embarked in the Beagle in this her third voyage, consisted of:

John Clements Wickham, Commander and Surveyor. James B. Emery, Lieutenant. Henry Eden, Lieutenant. John Lort Stokes, Lieutenant and Assistant Surveyor. Alexander B. Usborne, Master. Benjamin Bynoe, Surgeon. Thomas Tait, Assistant Surgeon. John E. Dring, Clerk in charge. Benjamin F. Helpman, Mate. Auchmuty T. Freeze, Mate. Thomas T. Birch, Mate. L. R. Fitzmaurice, Mate. *William Tarrant, Master's Assistant. Charles Keys, ** Clerk. Thomas Sorrell, Boatswain. John Weeks, Carpenter. A corporal of marines and seven privates, with forty seamen and boys. 

(*Footnote. This officer I afterwards appointed to the assistantsurveyorship (vacated upon my succeeding Captain Wickham) on account ofthe active part he had taken in the surveying duties: an appointment mosthandsomely confirmed by Captain Beaufort. )

(**Footnote. Mr. Keys was always a volunteer for boat work, and isentitled to honourable mention as being, even where all were zealous, ofgreat value upon more than one occasion. )

During our six years' voyage the following changes occurred:

Mr. Usborne invalided, in consequence of his wound, in May 1839; Mr. Birch exchanged, in August 1839, with Mr. Pasco, into the Britomart; Mr. Freeze exchanged, in September 1839, with Mr. Forsyth, * into the Pelorus;in February 1840, Mr. Helpman joined the colonial service in WesternAustralia; Mr. C. J. Parker was appointed, in December 1840, to Mr. Usborne's vacancy, superseding Mr. Tarrant, who had been doing Master'sduty since Mr. Usborne left; Lieutenants Emery and Eden returned toEngland in March 1841. Late in the same month Commander Wickhaminvalided, when the writer of this narrative was appointed to the vacantcommand, by Commander Owen Stanley, H. M. S. Britomart, senior officerpresent, an appointment subsequently confirmed by the Lords of theAdmiralty. In April 1841, Lieutenant Graham Gore succeeded LieutenantEmery. ** Commander Wickham, myself, Mr. Bynoe, the Boatswain, and twomarines, had served in both the previous voyages of the Beagle. 

(*Footnote. From this officer's previous knowledge of the duties ofsurveying, having sailed in the Beagle on her former voyage, he proved avery valuable addition to our party. )

(**Footnote. Lieutenant Gore had been appointed to H. M. S. Herald and camedown from India, expecting to join her at Sydney: on his arrival, hefound she had left the station; and though he might have spent somemonths among his friends there, he in the most spirited manner, at oncevolunteered to join the Beagle, and proved himself throughout theremainder of the voyage of the greatest value, both to the service, andthe friend who here seeks to do justice to his worth. This deservingofficer would seem to have an hereditary taste for the duties of a voyageof surveying and discovery, his grandfather having accompanied therenowned circumnavigator, Cook, and his father, the unfortunate Bligh. Besides Lieutenant Gore's valuable services in H. M. S. Beagle, he was 1stLieutenant of H. M. S. Volage, during the early part of the Chinese war, and present at the capture of Aden: he served under Captain Sir GeorgeBack in the Polar expedition, and on board H. M. S. Albion at the battle ofNavarin. )

DEPARTURE FROM WOOLWICH. 

On the 9th of June we left Woolwich, in tow of H. M. Steamer Boxer, furnished with every comfort and necessary (by the Lords of theAdmiralty) which our own experience, or the kind interest of CaptainBeaufort could suggest. It had been determined by the Government--theplan having been suggested by Lieutenant Grey to Lord Glenelg, thenSecretary of State for the Colonies--that, simultaneously with the surveyof the seaboard of the great continent of Australia, under CaptainWickham, a party should be employed in inland researches, in order moreparticularly to solve the problem of the existence of a great river, orwater inlet, supposed, upon the authority of Captains King and Dampier, to open out at some point on its western or north-western side, then butpartially and imperfectly surveyed. 

LIEUTENANTS GREY AND LUSHINGTON'S PARTY. 

This expedition was now entrusted to the command of LieutenantGrey--since Governor of South Australia--who was accompanied byLieutenant, now Captain Lushington; Mr. Walker, Surgeon, and CorporalsColes and Auger, of the Royal Sappers and Miners, who had volunteeredtheir services: they were to take passage in the Beagle, and to proceedeither to the Cape of Good Hope or Swan River, as Lieutenant Grey mightultimately determine. It was arranged that they should join us atPlymouth, and on our arrival there on the 20th of June--having called atPortsmouth on our way--we found them anxiously expecting us. 

Here we were busily occupied for some days in rating the chronometers, and testing the various magnetic instruments: we also during this timeswung the ship to try the local attraction, which neither here, nor inany subsequent experiments, exceeded one degree. As the ship lay in theSound our observations were made on a stone in the breakwater marked230/1, from whence we took our chronometric departure; it is aboutone-third of the length from the east end, and had been used for similarpurposes by Captains King and Fitzroy. We considered it to be west ofGreenwich, 0 hours 16 minutes 33 seconds 4t. 

FAREWELL GLANCE AT PLYMOUTH. 

Hardly anyone can visit Plymouth Sound without being at once struck withthe singular beauty of the surrounding scenery; nor shall I easily forgetthe mingled feelings of admiration and regret with which my eye dweltupon the quiet spot the evening before bidding it a long, long farewell. The sea had sunk to sleep, and not a single breath disturbed its glassysurface: the silent waters--and yet how eloquently that silence spoke tothe heart--glided swiftly past; into the still air rose the unbrokencolumn of the thin and distant smoke; through long vistas of far-offtrees, which art and nature had combined to group, the magnificentbuilding at Mount Edgcumbe, but veiled, to increase its beauty: sceneryvarying from the soft luxury of the park, to the rude freedom of the wildmountain's side, by turns solicited the eye; and as I leant against ashattered rock, filled with all those nameless feelings which such anhour was so well fitted to call forth, I felt notwithstanding all thetemptations of promised adventure, the full bitterness of the price wepay for its excitements!

DEATH OF WILLIAM THE FOURTH. 

On the evening of the 21st of June, we received the melancholyintelligence of the death of our late most gracious Sovereign, KingWilliam the Fourth. To all classes of his subjects his mild and paternalgovernment has endeared his memory; and none however they may differ withhim, or with each other, upon that great political revolution which willrender the name and reign of the Fourth William, no less remarkable thanthat of the Third, will refuse the tribute of their sincerest respect forqualities that adorned the sovereign while they exalted the man. By thenaval service, in which he had spent the early part of his life, his namewill long be remembered with affection; he never lost sight of itsinterests; and warmly supported its several institutions and charities, long after he had been called by Providence to the Throne of his Fathers. We bore the first intelligence of his fate, and the account of theaccession of our present most gracious Queen, to every port at which wetouched up to the period of our reaching Swan River. 

CHAPTER 1. 2. PLYMOUTH TO BAHIA. 

Sail from Plymouth. The Eight Stones. Peak of Tenerife. Approach to Santa Cruz. La Cueva de Los Guanches. Trade with Mogadore. Intercourse between Mogadore and Mombas. Reason to regret Mombas having been given up. Sail from Tenerife. Search for rocks near the equator. Arrival at San Salvador. Appearance of Bahia. State of the Country. Slave Trade. And results of Slavery. Extension of the Slave Trade on the eastern coast of Africa. Moral condition of the Negroes. Middy's Grave. Departure from Bahia. Mr. "Very Well Dice". 

The morning of the 5th July saw us running out of Plymouth Sound with alight northerly wind, and hazy weather: soon after we were outside wespoke H. M. S. Princess Charlotte, bearing the flag of Admiral Sir R. Stopford, and as she was bound down channel we kept together for the nextthree days: she had old shipmates on board, and was not the less anobject of interest on that account. Nothing worthy of particular noticeoccurred during the run to Santa Cruz in Tenerife, which we made on the18th of July; having in obedience to our instructions passed over thepresumed site of The Eight Stones, thus adding another though almostneedless testimony to their non-existence, at least in the place assignedthem in the old charts. 

In passing the gut of Gibraltar we remarked the current setting us intoit: this I have before noticed in outward voyages: in the homeward, oneis generally too far to the westward to feel its effects. A smallschooner sailed for England on the 20th, and most of us took theopportunity of sending letters by her. I learnt from the master of herthat a timber ship had been recently picked up near the island, havingbeen dismasted in a gale off the banks of Newfoundland; she was 105 daysdrifting here. 

PEAK OF TENERIFE. 

We were not so fortunate on this occasion as to obtain a distant sea viewof the far-famed peak of Tenerife. There are few natural objects ofgreater interest when so beheld. Rising at a distance of some 40 leaguesin dim and awful solitude from the bosom of the seemingly boundless wavesthat guard its base, it rests at first upon the blue outline of thehorizon like a conically shaped cloud: hour after hour as you approachthe island it seems to grow upon the sight, until at length its broadreflection darkens the surrounding waters. I can imagine nothing bettercalculated than an appearance of this kind to satisfy a beholder of thespherical figure of the earth, and it would seem almost incredible thatearly navigators should have failed to find conviction in the unvaryingtestimonies of their own experience, which an approach to every shoreafforded. 

In approaching the anchorage of Santa Cruz, vessels should close with theshore, and get into soundings before--as is the general custom--arrivingabreast of the town, where from the steepness of the bank, and itsproximity to the shore, they are obliged to anchor suddenly, a practicenever desirable, and to vessels short handed, always inconvenient:besides calms sometimes prevail in the offing, which would prevent avessel reaching the anchorage at all. 

LA CUEVA DE LOS GUANCHES. 

Lieutenant Grey was most indefatigable in collecting information duringthe short period of our stay at the island, as an examination of hisinteresting work will at once satisfy the reader: he explored a cavethree miles to the north-east of Santa Cruz, known by tradition as LaCueva de los Guanches, and reputed to be a burying-place of theaboriginal inhabitants of the island: it was full of bones, and from thespecimens he brought away, and also from his description of all that heexamined, they appear to have belonged to a small-limbed race of men. 

Besides the wine trade, a considerable traffic is carried on with theMoors upon the opposite coast, who exchange gums and sometimes ivory forcotton and calico prints, and occasionally tobacco. 

TRADE WITH MOGADORE. 

The chief port for this trade is Mogadore, from whence ships notunfrequently sail direct to Liverpool. 

A singular circumstance was mentioned to me by our first Lieutenant Mr. Emery, as tending to prove the existence of commercial intercoursebetween the various tribes in the interior, and the inhabitants of thecoast at Mogadore on the north-west coast of Africa, and Mombas on thesouth-east. In the year 1830, certain English goods were recognized inthe hands of the Moors at Mogadore which had been sold two yearspreviously to the natives at Mombas. The great extent of territory passedover within these dates, renders this fact somewhat extraordinary; and itaffords a reason for regretting that we did not keep possession ofMombas, which would ere this have enabled us to penetrate into theinterior of Africa: we abandoned it, at the very time when the tribes inthe interior were beginning to find out the value of our manufactures, especially calicoes and cottons. 

From the best information that Lieutenant Emery had obtained among thenatives, it seems certain that a very large lake exists in the interior, its banks thickly studded with buildings, and lying nearly due west fromMombas. 

It was Lieutenant Emery's intention to have visited this lake had heremained longer at Mombas; the Sultan's son was to have accompanied him, an advantage which, coupled with his own knowledge of the country and itscustoms, together with his great popularity among the natives, must haveensured him success. It is to be feared, that so favourable anopportunity for clearing up the doubts and darkness which at presentbeset geographers in attempting to delineate this unknown land, will notsoon again present itself. 

SAIL FROM TENERIFE. 

Having completed the necessary magnetic observations, and rated thechronometers, we sailed from Tenerife, on the evening of the 23rd. Itshould be noticed that the results obtained from our observations for thedip of the needle, differed very materially from those given by formerobservers: the experiments made by Lieutenant Grey in different parts ofthe island, satisfied us that the variation could not be imputed tomerely local causes. 

As in obedience to our instructions we had to examine and determine thehitherto doubtful position of certain rocks near the Equator, about themeridian of 20 degrees West longitude, we were obliged to take a coursethat carried us far to the eastward of the Cape de Verd Islands; for thisreason we had the North-East trade wind very light; we finally lost it onthe 30th, in latitude 13 degrees 0 minutes North, and longitude 14degrees 40 minutes West; it had been for the two previous days scarcelyperceptible. 

The South-East trade reached us on the 8th of August, latitude 3 degrees30 minutes North longitude 17 degrees 40 minutes West, and on the morningof the 10th we crossed the Equator in longitude 22 degrees 0 minutesWest: when sundry of our crew and passengers underwent the usualceremonies in honour of old Father Neptune. A close and careful searchwithin the limits specified in our instructions justified us incertifying the non-existence of the rocks therein alluded to: but beforewe presume to pass any censure upon those who preceded us in the honoursof maritime discovery, and the labours of maritime survey, it will beproper to bear in mind the ceaseless changes to which the earth's surfaceis subject, and that, though our knowledge is but limited of thephenomena connected with subterranean and volcanic agency, still, in thesudden upheaval and subsidence of Sabrina and Graham Islands, we havesufficient evidence of their vast disturbing power, to warrant thesupposition that such might have been the case with the rocks for whichour search proved fruitless. Nor are these the only causes that may beassigned to reconcile the conflicting testimonies of various Navigatorsupon the existence of such dangers; the origin of which may be ascribedto drift timber--reflected light discolouring the sea, and causing theappearance of broken water--or to the floating carcass of a whale, bywhich I have myself been more than once deceived. 

ARRIVAL AT SAN SALVADOR. 

A succession of winds between South-South-East and South-East, with theaid of a strong westerly current, soon brought us near the Brazils. Wemade the land on the morning of the 17th, about 15 miles to thenorth-east of Bahia, and in the afternoon anchored off the town of SanSalvador. 

Though this was neither my first nor second visit to Bahia, I was stillnot indifferent to the magnificent or rather luxuriant tropical scenerywhich it presents. A bank of such verdure as these sun-lit climes alonesupply, rose precipitously from the dark blue water, dotted with thewhite and gleaming walls of houses and convents half hidden in woods ofevery tint of green; while here and there the lofty spires of someChristian temple pointed to a yet fairer world, invisible to mortal eye, and suggested even to the least thoughtful, that glorious as is thislower earth, framed by Heaven's beneficence for man's enjoyment, still itis not that home to which the hand of revelation directs the aspirationsof our frail humanity. 

STATE OF THE COUNTRY AT BAHIA. 

I had last seen Bahia in August, 1836, on the homeward voyage of theBeagle; and it was then in anything but a satisfactory condition; thewhite population divided among themselves, and the slaves concerting byone bloody and desperate blow to achieve their freedom. It did not appearto have improved during the intervening period: a revolutionary movementwas still contemplated by the more liberal section of the Brazilians, though at the very period they thus judiciously selected for squabblingwith one another, they were living in hourly expectation of a rising, enmasse, of the blacks. That such an insurrection must sooner or later takeplace--and take place with all the most fearful circumstances of longdelayed and complete revenge--no unprejudiced observer can doubt. 

SLAVE TRADE. 

That selfish and short-sighted policy which is almost invariably alliedwith despotism, has led to such constant additions by importation to thenumber of the slave population, that it now exceeds the white in theratio of ten to one, while individually the slaves are both physicallyand in natural capacity more than equal to their sensual and degeneratemasters. Bahia and its neighbourhood have a bad eminence in the annals ofthe Brazilian slave-trade. Upwards of fifty, some accounts say eightycargoes, had been landed there since the Beagle's last visit: nor is thecircumstance to be wondered at when we bear in mind, that the price of aslave then varied from 90 to 100 pounds, and this in a country notabounding in money. 

The declining trade, the internal disorganization, and the rapidlyaugmenting slave population of Bahia, all tend to prove that the systemof slavery which the Brazilians consider essential to the welfare oftheir country, operates directly against her real interests. Thewonderful resources of the Brazils will, however, never be fullydeveloped until the Brazilians resolve to adopt the line of policysuggested in Captain Fitzroy's interesting remarks upon this subject. Toencourage an industrious native population on the one hand, and on theother to declare the slave-trade piratical, are the first necessary stepsin that march of improvement, by which this tottering empire may yet bepreserved from premature decay. 

RESULTS OF SLAVERY. 

It would, however, be a vain imagination, to suppose that this wiser andmore humane determination will be spontaneously adopted by those mostimplicated in this debasing and demoralizing traffic. Indeed it appearsfrom the best information obtained on the subject, that since thevigilance of our cruizers has comparatively put a stop to the trade onthe west coast of Africa--where it has received a greatdiscouragement--it has been greatly extended on the east. Could it buthave been foreseen by our Government that their efforts upon the westcoast, would in proportion as they were successful, only tend to drivethe traders in human flesh to the eastward, it is probable that Mombaswould have still been retained under our dominion; for such a possessionwould have enabled us to exercise an effectual control in that quarter:as it is, it gives additional reason to regret that the place was everabandoned. The horrors of the passage--horrors which no imagination canheighten, no pen adequately portray--are by this alteration in the chiefseat of the accursed trade most fearfully augmented. The poor victims ofcruelty and fraud and avarice, in their most repulsive forms, are packedaway between decks scarcely three feet high, in small vessels of 30 or 40tons, and thus situated have to encounter the cold and stormy passageround the Cape: the average mortality is of course most frightful, butthe smallness of the vessels employed decreases the risk of thespeculators in human flesh, who consider themselves amply repaid, if theysave one living cargo out of every five embarked!

MORAL CONDITION OF THE NEGROES. 

In the meantime cargoes of slaves are almost weekly landed in theneighbourhood of Bahia: the thousand evils of the vile system are eachday increasing, and with a rapid but unregarded footstep the fearful hoursteals on, when a terrible reckoning of unrestrained revenge will repayall the accumulated wrongs of the past, and write in characters of bloodan awful warning for the future!

So far as we could learn, no attempts are made by the masters tointroduce the blessings of Christianity among those whom they deprive oftemporal freedom. The slave is treated as a valuable animal and nothingmore: the claims of his kindred humanity so far forgotten as they relateto his first unalienable right of personal freedom, are not likely to beremembered in his favour, in what concerns his coheritage in the sublimesacrifice of atonement once freely offered for us all! He toils throughlong and weary years, cheered by no other hope than the far distant andoft delusive expectation that a dearly purchased freedom--if forfreedom's blessings any price can be too costly--will enable him to lookonce more upon the land of his nativity; and then close his eyes, surrounded by the loved few whom the ties of kindred endear even to hisrude nature. 

It would swell this portion of the work to an unreasonable extent, togive any lengthened details of the working of a system, about which amongmy readers no two opinions can exist. Let it suffice to say, that theEuropeans are generally better and less exacting masters than theBrazilians. Among the latter it is a common practice to send so manyslaves each day to earn a certain fixed sum by carrying burdens, pullingin boats, or other laborious employment; and those who return at nightwithout the sum thus arbitrarily assessed as the value of their day'swork, are severely flogged for their presumed idleness. 

MIDDY'S GRAVE. 

During our brief stay at Bahia I paid a visit to the grave of poor youngMusters, a little Middy in the Beagle during our last voyage, who diedhere on the 19th May, 1832, from the effects of a fever caught while awayon an excursion up the river Macacu. He was a son of Lord Byron's Mary, and a great favourite with all on board. Poor boy! no stone marks hislonely resting place upon a foreign shore, but the long grass waves overhis humble grave, and the tall palm tree bends to the melancholy windthat sighs above it. As I paid his memory the tribute due to his manyvirtues and his early death, I breathed a prayer that the still andplacid beauty of the spot where his mortal remains return to theirkindred dust, may typify the tranquil happiness of that world of spiritswith which his own is now united!

MR. "VERY WELL DICE. "

On the afternoon of Friday the 25th, we left the magnificent bay ofBahia, and after obtaining an offing, stood away to the southward andeastward. I was much amused by a story of Grey's a day or two after wesailed: it seems he had mistaken the Quartermaster's usual call inconning the ship of "Very well, dice" (a corruption of "very well, thus")for a complimentary notice of the man at the helm; and anxious to knowthe individual who so distinguished himself, had two or three times goneon deck to see "Mr. Very well Dice:" finding a different helmsman eachtime, completely confounded him; and when I explained the matter, hejoined me in a hearty laugh at the mistake!

CHAPTER 1. 3. FROM THE CAPE TO SWAN RIVER. 

A gale. Anchor in Simon's Bay. H. M. S. Thalia. Captain Harris, and his Adventures in Southern Africa. Proceedings of the Land Party. Leave Simon's Bay. An overloaded ship. Heavy weather and wet decks. Island of Amsterdam. Its true longitude. St. Paul's. Water. Westerly variation. Rottnest Island. Gage's Road. Swan River Settlement. Fremantle. An inland lake. Plans for the future. Illness of Captain Wickham. Tidal Phenomena. Perth. Approach to it. Narrow escape of the first settlers. The Darling Range. Abundant Harvest. Singular flight of strange birds. Curious Cliff near Swan River. Bald Head. Mr. Darwin's Theory. The Natives. Miago. Anecdotes of Natives. Their Superstitions. Barbarous traditions, their uses and their lessons. 

We had, upon the whole, a favourable passage across to the Cape; but onthe 17th of September, when distant from it about 500 miles, weencountered a moderate gale from the north. As this was the first heavyweather we had experienced since our departure from England, I wascurious to see what effect such a strange scene would have on ourpassengers. Wrapt in mute astonishment, they stood gazing with admirationand awe on the huge waves as they rolled past, occasionally immersing ourlittle vessel in their white crests--and listening, with emotions notwholly devoid of fear, to the wild screams of the seabirds as theyskimmed o'er the steep acclivities of these moving masses. The landsmenwere evidently deeply impressed with the grandeur of a storm at sea; norcan the hardiest seaman look with unconcern on such an exhibition of themajesty of Him, whose will the winds and waves obey. Not more poeticallybeautiful than literally true are the words of the Psalmist, soappropriately introduced into the Form of Prayers at Sea--"They that godown to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters:these men see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep: for athis word the stormy wind ariseth, which lifteth up the waves thereof. " Myown experience has over and over again satisfied me, that, mingled withmany a dim superstition, a deep religious sentiment--a conviction of themight and mercy of Heaven--often rests on the heart of the most recklessseaman, himself all unconscious of its existence, yet strangelyinfluenced by its operations!

ANCHOR AT SIMON'S BAY. 

We sighted land on the evening of the 20th of September, rounded the Capethe next morning, and in the afternoon anchored in Simon's Bay. We foundhere H. M. S. Thalia, bearing the flag of Admiral Sir Patrick Campbell, Commander-in-chief of the Cape station: and during our subsequent stayreceived every attention which kindness and courtesy could suggest, fromhimself and his officers. 

We were glad to ascertain that our chronometers had been performingadmirably. They gave the longitude of Simon's Bay, within a few secondsof our homeward determination during the last voyage. Mr. Maclear, of theRoyal Observatory, and Captain Wauchope, of the flagship, had beenmeasuring the difference of longitude between Simon's Bay dockyard andCape Town Observatory, by flashing lights upon the summit of a mountainmidway between those two places. Their trials gave a greater difference, by a half second, between the two meridians, than we had obtained on aformer visit by carrying chronometers to and fro. The results stand asfollow:

Mr. Maclear and Captain Wauchope: 11. 5 seconds South. 

H. M. Sloop Beagle: 11. 0 seconds South. 

ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN HARRIS. 

We found at the Cape the renowned Captain Harris, H. E. I. Company's BombayEngineers, who had just returned from his sporting expedition into theinterior of Southern Africa, having made his way through every obstacle, from the frontier of the Cape Colony, through the territories of thechief Moselekatse, to the Tropic of Capricorn. With his spirit-stirringaccounts of hunting adventure and savage manners we were all most highlygratified. What he had seen, where he had been, and what he had performed"by flood and field, " have since been told to the world by himself, andtherefore need not be repeated here: but it would be unpardonable not todo justice to his energy, his perseverance, and his success. He hadcollected quite a museum of the Natural History of the wild beastsagainst whom his crusade had been directed; while his collection ofdrawings, both as regarded the animals delineated, and the appearance ofthe country in which they were found, was really most beautiful: and manya pleasant hour was spent in viewing the various specimens andillustrations, each one of which testified the intrepidity and skill ofhimself or his no less adventurous companion, William Richardson, Esquire, B. C. S. It will readily be believed that these two gentlemen werethen, themselves, the great Lions of that part of Africa. 

SAIL FOR SWAN RIVER. 

Having completed our observations, and crammed every available squareinch of the Beagle with various stores--a proceeding rendered absolutelynecessary by the unsatisfactory accounts we received of the state ofaffairs at Swan River--we sailed for that place on the morning of the12th of October. 

It should be mentioned, that Lieutenant Grey, hearing it would beimpossible for him to obtain a suitable vessel at Swan River, hired asmall schooner from this port, and sailed, with his party, for HanoverBay, on the north-west coast of Australia, the day after our departure. His subsequent perils, wanderings, and adventures having been fullydescribed in his own published account, I need do no more here thanallude to them. 

We encountered a good deal of heavy weather, shifting winds, andconsequently irregular seas, during our run to Swan River; and owing tothe deep state of our loaded little vessel, her decks were almostconstantly flooded. For many days we had never less than an inch and ahalf of water on them all over; and this extra weight, in our alreadyoverburdened craft, did not, of course, add to her liveliness; however, she struggled on. 

ISLAND OF AMSTERDAM. 

And on the 1st of November bore us in sight of the Island of Amsterdam, and in the afternoon passed to the southward of it, sufficiently near todetermine its position. The summit of the Island, which has rather apeaked appearance, we found to be 2, 760 feet high, in latitude 38 degrees53 minutes South, longitude 77 degrees 37 minutes East of Greenwich. Itis singular that though this Island, which is almost a finger-post forships bound from the Cape either to New Holland or India, has been solong known to all navigators of these seas, its true longitude shouldhave been till now unascertained. The western side presented theappearance of a broken-down crater, nor indeed can there be any reason todoubt its volcanic origin. Light brown was the pervading colour upon thesides of the island, and appeared to be caused by stunted bushes andgrass. The southern island, St. Paul's, affords a good anchorage in 21fathoms, about midway on its eastern side, latitude 38 degrees 42minutes, and is in every way preferable to the spot chosen for thatpurpose by Vlaming in 1764, on the south-east side of Amsterdam, wherelanding is never very easy, and generally quite impracticable. 

ST. PAUL'S. 

The well ascertained fact, that water is found in abundance at St. Paul's, leads to a very fair inference, that in this humid atmosphere, and with a much greater elevation, the same essential commodity may bemet with at Amsterdam; but certainly at St. Paul's, and most probably atAmsterdam, the rugged nature of the travelling over these volcanicislands, would render useless any attempt to water a ship. 

The following table, though it may not possess much interest for thegeneral reader, will not be without its value in the eyes of my nauticalbrethren: it shows the increase of variation since 1747:

COLUMN 1: SOURCE. COLUMN 2: DATE A. D. COLUMN 3: WESTERLY VARIATION. 

From Horsburg's Directory : 1747 : 17 1/2. From Horsburg's Directory : 1764 : 18 3/4. From Horsburg's Directory : 1793: 20. H. M. S. Beagle : 1837 : 21. 

As these islands lie in the same meridian, the longitude given above ofAmsterdam, will equally apply to St. Paul's: they are admirably situatedfor connecting the meridians of Africa and Australia. We lost sight ofAmsterdam towards evening, and flattered ourselves that we were alsoleaving the bad weather behind. The sky more settled; the sea less high;and the barometer rising: such indications, however, cannot be implicitlytrusted in this boisterous climate; and shortly after dark, havingshipped a very heavy sea, we rounded too for the night. The constant setof the huge following seas, carried our little vessel much faster to theeastward than could be easily credited, till proved by actualobservation. During the last three or four days, we had run upwards of195 miles daily by the observations, being from twenty to thirty moreeach day than appeared from the reckoning. 

ROTTNEST ISLAND. 

We made Rottnest Island on the morning of Wednesday, November 15th; andin the afternoon of the same day, anchored in Gage's Road, Swan River. Our position at midnight, the night before, made us about 30 miles fromthe mainland, when we had the wind from the eastward, getting round againtowards noon to south and by west. This may be some guide to the limit ofthe land wind, and as such I record the fact. During the three daysprevious to our making the land, we experienced a northerly current ofone knot per hour. We tried during the same period for soundings, withnearly 200 fathoms, but in vain. 

We passed along the north shore of Rottnest at the distance of a mile anda half, closing with it as we got to the eastward, where it is not sorocky. The north shore should not be approached within a mile. As we wereopening out the bay on the north-east end of the island, we passed over arocky patch, with, from appearance, not more than three fathoms on it, itis small, and we had 14 fathoms close to it. This patch is about one mileNorth by West from the north-west point of the bay. Off this point is alow rocky islet; and when on the shoal, we could just make out the whitesandy beach in the bay open between it and the point. The western pointsof the island are all shut in by the north point; therefore, keeping themopen, will always enable the navigator to give this dangerous rock* awide berth. 

(*Footnote. Now called Roe's Patch. )

SWAN RIVER SETTLEMENT. 

The Swan River Settlement, which is a portion of the colony of WesternAustralia, was founded in August 1829, under the auspices of the ColonialOffice, Captain Stirling being the first Lieutenant-Governor. 

FREMANTLE. 

Fremantle, at the entrance of Swan River, is the sea port; and Perth, situate about nine miles inland, the seat of Government: Guildford andYork are the other chief places in the colony. 

There is nothing very particularly inviting in the first appearance ofWestern Australia; dull-green-looking downs, backed by a slightlyundulating range of hills, rising to nearly 2, 000 feet high, are thechief natural features of the prospect. Fremantle, of which it waswittily said by the quartermaster of one of His Majesty's ships whovisited the place, "You might run it through an hourglass in a day, " isbut a collection of low white houses scattered over the scarce whitersand. The only conspicuous landmark visible in approaching the anchorageis the Jail: rather a singular pharos for a settlement in Australia, which boasts its uncontaminated state. This building I afterwards inducedthe Governor to have white-washed, and it now forms an excellent mark topoint out the river, as well as the town. *

(*Footnote. A large patch of white sand, on the coast, about three milesto the northward of Swan River, also serves as a landmark. )

Shortly after our arrival, I was introduced to the Governor, Sir JamesStirling; he, and all those here best qualified to judge, joined inregretting that Lieutenant Grey had not decided to come on with us. Theaccounts we heard of the country and the natives gave us every reason toentertain but slender hopes of his success. 

AN INLAND LAKE. 

Sir James and Mr. Roe, the Surveyor-General, appeared to coincide withthe general opinion that a large inland lake will ultimately bediscovered. They had questioned many of the natives about it, who allasserted its existence, and pointed in a south-easterly direction toindicate its position. Their notions of distance are, to say the least, exceedingly rude; with them everything is "far away, far away. " The sizeof this water the natives describe by saying, that if a boy commencedwalking round it, by the time he finished his task he would have becomean old man! After all may not this be the great Australian Bight thatthese natives have heard of, for none we met in Western Australiapretended to have seen it? They derive their information from the easterntribes, and under such circumstances it must at least be consideredextremely vague. *

(*Footnote. This much-talked-of lake, which it was the assumed labour ofa life to circumambulate, was discovered in January 1843, by Messrs. Landor and Lefroy, who found it about 100 miles South-South-East fromBeverley. It is quite salt, called Dambeling, and about fifteen mileslong by seven and a half broad!)

The Surveyor-General had lately returned from an exploring journey to theeastward of the capital, and reported that there existed no reasonableprobability of extending the colony in that direction: he stronglyrecommended us to proceed at once to the north-west coast, and returnagain to Swan River to recruit; saying that we should find the heat theretoo great to remain for a longer period. This course Captain Wickham, after due deliberation, resolved to adopt, and accordingly all thestores, not absolutely required, were forthwith landed, and the ship madein every respect as airy as possible. The 25th November was fixed for ourdeparture, when most unfortunately Captain Wickham, while on his way toPerth, was attacked with a severe dysentery, and continued so ill that hecould not be brought to the ship till the end of December. The most thatcould be effected was done to improve this unavoidable delay; and ourtidal observations, before commenced, were more diligently pursued. Wefound the greatest rise only thirty-one inches, and here, as elsewhere onthe Australian coast, we observed the remarkable phenomenon of only onetide in the twenty-four hours! Surveying operations were also entered on, connecting Rottnest Island with the mainland; the dangers which surroundit, as well as those which lie between its shores and the coast, werediscovered and laid down: this survey, of great importance to theinterests of shipping in these waters, was ultimately completed on oursubsequent visits to Swan River. 

That arid appearance which first meets the settler on his arrival, and towhich allusion has already been made, cannot but prove disheartening tohim: particularly if, as is generally the case, his own sanguineexpectations of a second Paradise have been heightened by the interesteddescriptions of land jobbers and emigration agents. 

APPROACH TO PERTH. 

However, when he ascends the river towards the capital, this feeling ofdespondency will gradually wear away; its various windings bring, to hiseager and anxious eye, many a bright patch of park-like woodland; whilethe river, expanding as he proceeds, till the beautiful estuary ofMelville water opens out before him, becomes really a magnificent featurein the landscape; and the boats, passing and repassing upon its smoothand glassy bosom, give the animation of industry, and suggest all thecheerful anticipations of ultimate success to the resolute adventurer. From about the centre of this lake-like piece of water, the eye firstrests upon the capital of Western Australia, a large straggling village, partly concealed by the abrupt termination of a woody ridge, and standingupon a picturesque slope on the right bank of the river, thirteen milesfrom its mouth. The distant range of the Darling mountains supplies asplendid background to the picture, and the refreshing seabreeze whichcurls the surface of Melville water every afternoon, adds to the health, no less than comfort, of the inhabitants. The former inconvenience, caused by the shoal approach, and which rendered landing at low-water amost uncomfortable operation, has now been remedied by the constructionof a jetty. 

Like all the Australian rivers with which we are yet acquainted, the Swanis subject to sudden and tremendous floods, which inundate the corn landsin its vicinity, and sweep away all opposing obstacles with irresistibleimpetuosity. 

NARROW ESCAPE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS. 

The first settlers had a most providential escape from a calamity of thiskind: they had originally selected for the site of their new city, alow-lying piece of land, which, during the first winter after theirarrival, was visited with one of these strange and unexplained invasionsfrom the swelling stream: had the deluge been delayed for another year, these luckless inhabitants of a new world would have shared the fate ofthose to whom Noah preached in vain; but, warned in time, they chose somesafer spot, from whence, in future, they and their descendants may safelycontemplate the awful grandeur of similar occurrences, and thankfullyprofit by the fertility and abundance which succeed to such wholesaleirrigation. During this, our first visit, I had no opportunity ofpenetrating into the country further than the Darling range: injourneying thither, we passed through Guildford, a township on the banksof the Swan, about seven miles north-east from Perth, and four from thefoot of the mountains. It stands upon a high part of the alluvial flatfringing the river, and which extends from half to one mile from it oneither side. The rich quality of the soil may be imagined from the fact, that, in 1843, after thirteen years of successive cropping, it produced amore abundant harvest than it had done at first, without any artificialaid from manures. 

SINGULAR FLIGHT OF STRANGE BIRDS. 

A singular flight of strange birds, was noticed at Guildford about theyear 1833, during the time when the corn was green: they arrived in aninnumerable host, and were so tame as to be easily taken by hand. Ingeneral appearance they resembled the land-rail, but were larger, andquite as heavy on the wing. They disappeared in the same mysteriousmanner as they arrived, and have never since repeated their visit. Werethese birds visitors from the interior, or had they just arrived at theend of a migratory journey from some distant country? It is to beregretted that no specimen of them was to be obtained, as it might havehelped to clear an interesting subject from doubt. 

THE DARLING RANGE. 

The change in ascending this range, from the alluvium near its base, tothe primitive formation of which it is itself composed, is veryremarkable. Shells still common on the adjacent coasts were met with 14feet below the surface, near the foot of the range, by one of thecolonists when sinking a well. In the same locality deposits of sand maybe seen, having that particular wavy appearance which is always noticedupon the sea beach. These appearances, as well as the general aspect ofthe adjacent country, seem to justify the conclusion I arrived at whileon the spot, that the land which now intervenes between the mountains andthe shore, is a comparatively recent conquest from the sea. The characterof this land may be thus described: The first three miles from the coastis occupied with ridges of hills, from 100 to 200 feet high, ofcalcareous limestone formation, cropping out in such innumerable pointsand odd shapes as to be almost impassable. Some of these lumps resemble alarge barnacle; both lumps and points are covered with long, coarsegrass, and thus concealed, become a great hindrance to the pedestrian, who is constantly wounded by them. To these ridges succeed sandy forestland and low hills, except on the banks of the rivulets, where a belt ofalluvial soil is to be found. The Darling range traverses the whole ofWestern Australia in a direction, generally speaking, north and south. Itappears to subside towards the north, and its greatest elevation isnearly 2, 000 feet. The cliffs of the coast at the mouth of Swan River, have a most singular appearance, as though covered with thousands ofroots, twisted together into a species of network. 

A SINGULAR CLIFF. 

A similar curiosity is to be seen on Bald Head, in King George's Sound, so often alluded to by former navigators, and by them mistaken either forcoral, or petrified trees standing where they originally grew. Bald Headwas visited by Mr. Darwin, in company with Captain Fitzroy, in February1836, and his opinions upon the agencies of formation, so exactlycoincide with those to which I attribute the appearances at Arthur'sHead, that I cannot do better than borrow his words. He says--page 537, volume 3, "According to our views, the rock was formed by the windheaping up calcareous sand, during which process, branches and roots oftrees, and land-shells were enclosed, the mass being afterwardsconsolidated by the percolation of rain water. When the wood had decayed, lime was washed into the cylindrical cavities, and became hard, sometimeseven like that in a stalactite. The weather is now wearing away thesofter rock, and in consequence the casts of roots and branches projectabove the surface: their resemblance to the stumps of a dead shrubberywas so exact, that, before touching them, we were sometimes at a loss toknow which were composed of wood, and which of calcareous matter. "*

(*Footnote. For more exact details the reader should consult Mr. Darwin'svolume on Volcanic Islands. )

THE NATIVES. 

We were much struck during our stay by the contrast between the nativeshere, and those we had seen on the Beagle's former voyage at KingGeorge's Sound. The comparison was wholly in favour of those livingwithin the influence of their civilized fellow-men: a fact which maysurprise some of my readers, but for which, notwithstanding, I am quiteprepared to vouch. A better quality, and more certain supply of food, arethe causes to which this superiority ought to be attributed: they areindeed exceedingly fond of wheaten bread, and work hard for the settlers, in cutting wood and carrying water, in order to obtain it. Individuallythey appear peaceable, inoffensive, and well-disposed, and, under propermanagement, make very good servants; but when they congregate togetherfor any length of time, they are too apt to relapse into the vices ofsavage life. Among the many useful hints, for which we were indebted toMr. Roe, was that of taking a native with us to the northward; and, accordingly, after some trouble, we shipped an intelligent young man, named Miago; he proved, in some respects, exceedingly useful, and made anexcellent gun-room waiter. We noticed that, like most of the natives, hewas deeply scarred, and I learned from him that this is done to recommendthem to the notice of the ladies. Like all savages, they aretreacherous--for uncivilized man has no abstract respect for truth, andconsequently deceit, whether spoken or acted, seems no baseness in hiseyes. 

ANECDOTES OF THE NATIVES. 

I heard an anecdote at Perth that bears upon this subject: A native ofthe name of Tonquin asked a settler, who lived some distance in theinterior, permission to spend the night in his kitchen, of which thatevening another native was also an inmate. It seems that some hate, either personal, or the consequences of a quarrel between their differenttribes, existed in the mind of Tonquin towards his hapless fellow lodger;and in the night he speared him through the heart, AND THEN VERY QUIETLYLAID DOWN TO SLEEP! Of course in the morning no little stir took place. Tonquin was accused, but stoutly denied the charge. So satisfied, however, was the owner of the house of the guilt of the real culprit, that had he not made his escape, he would have been executed red hand--asthe border wardens used to say--by the man, the sanctity of whoseroof-tree he had thus profaned. Tonquin afterwards declared that he NEVERSLEPT FOR NEARLY A FORTNIGHT, being dogged from place to place by thefootsteps of the avengers of blood. He escaped, however, with his life, though worn almost to a shadow by constant anxiety. When I saw him someyears afterwards, I thought him the finest looking native I had everseen, but he was apparently, as those who knew him best reported him tobe, insane. If not the memory of his crime, and the consequent remorsewhich it entailed upon him, perhaps the fugitive life he was compelled tolead in order to avoid the wrath of human retribution, had been used tomake manifest the anger of Heaven for this breach of one of those firstgreat laws of human society, which are almost as much instincts of ournature as revelations from the Creator to the creatures of his will!

SUPERSTITIONS. 

The natives have a superstitious horror of approaching the graves of thedead, of whom they never like to speak, and when induced to do so, alwayswhisper. A settler, residing in a dangerous part of the colony, had twosoldiers stationed with him as a guard: upon one occasion five nativesrushed in at a moment when the soldiers were unprepared for theirreception, and a terrible struggle ensued: the soldiers, however, managed, while on the ground, to shoot two of them, and bayonetted theremaining three. The five were afterwards buried before the door, norcould a more perfect safeguard have been devised; no thought even ofrevenge for their comrades would afterwards induce any of the tribe topass that fearful boundary. 

Their most curious superstition, however, remains to be recorded; it isthe opinion they confidently entertain, and which seems universallydiffused among them, that the white people are their former fellowcountrymen, who in such altered guise revisit the world after death. Miago assured me that this was the current opinion, and my own personalobservation subsequently confirmed his statement. At Perth, one of thesettlers, from his presumed likeness to a defunct member of the tribe ofthe Murray River, was visited by his supposed kindred twice every year, though in so doing they passed through sixty miles of what was notunfrequently an enemy's country. 

Their religious opinions, so far as I have been able to obtain anyinformation on the subject, are exceedingly vague and indefinite. Thatthey do not regard the grave as man's final resting place, may, however, be fairly concluded, from the superstition I have just alluded to, andthat they believe in invisible and superior powers--objects of dread andfear, rather than veneration or love--has been testified in CaptainGrey's most interesting chapter upon Native Customs, and confirmed by myown experience. 

THE EVIL SPIRIT. 

I used sometimes to question Miago upon this point, and from him Ilearned their belief in the existence of an evil spirit, haunting darkcaverns, wells, and places of mystery and gloom, and called Jinga. Iheard from a settler that upon one occasion, a native travelling withhim, refused to go to the well at night from fear of this malevolentbeing; supposed to keep an especial guardianship over fresh water, and tobe most terrible and most potent in the hours of darkness. Miago hadnever seen this object of his fears, but upon the authority of the eldersof his tribe, he described its visible presence as that of a hugemany-folded serpent; and in the night, when the tall forest trees moanedand creaked in the fitful wind, he would shrink terrified by the solemnand mysterious sounds, which then do predispose the mind to superstitiousfears, and tell how, at such a time, his countrymen kindle a fire toavert the actual presence of the evil spirit, and wait aroundit--chanting their uncouth and rhythmical incantations--with fear andtrembling, for the coming dawn. 

I have preserved these anecdotes here, because I can vouch for theirauthenticity, and though individually unimportant, they may serve tothrow additional light upon the manners, customs, and traditions of theAborigines of Australia; but to all really interested in the subject, Iwould recommend a perusal of Captain Grey's second volume. I have as yetneither space nor materials to attempt any detailed account of thecustoms, superstitions, or condition of this strange people; but it wouldbe impossible to pass them by quite unnoticed: nor can the voyager, whosechief object is to make their native land a field for the exertions ofBritish enterprise, be wholly indifferent to the manner in which ourdominion may affect them. The history of almost every colony, founded byEuropean energy, has been one fearful catalogue of crime; and though bythe side of the Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese, English adventurers seemgentle and benevolent, still cruelty and oppression have too oftendisgraced our name and faith. 

FUTURE PROSPECTS. 

Thank Heaven, with many a doubt as to the time that must elapse ere thatglad day shall come, I can look onward with confidence to a period--Itrust not far remote--when throughout the length and breadth ofAustralia, Christian civilization shall attest that the claims uponEngland's benevolence have been nobly acknowledged!

CHAPTER 1. 4. FROM SWAN RIVER TO ROEBUCK BAY. 

Sail from Gage's Road. Search for a bank. Currents and soundings. Houtman's Abrolhos. Fruitless search for Ritchie's Reef. Indications of a squall. Deep sea soundings. Atmospheric Temperature. Fish. A squall. Anchor off the mouth of Roebuck Bay. A heavy squall. Driven from our anchorage. Cape Villaret. Anchor in Roebuck Bay. Excursion on shore. Visit from the Natives. Mr. Bynoe's account of them. A stranger among them. Captain Grey's account of an almost white race in Australia. Birds, Snakes, and Turtle. Move the Ship. Miago, and the Black Fellows. The wicked men of the North. Clouds of Magellan. Face of the Country. Natives. Heat and Sickness. Miago on shore. Mr. Usborne wounded. Failure in Roebuck Bay. Native notions. 

CURRENTS AND SOUNDINGS. 

The solemnities of Christmas, and the festal celebration of the New Year, beneath a cloudless sky, and with the thermometer at 90, concluded ourfirst visit to Swan River. We left our anchorage in Gage's Road onThursday, January 4th, devoting several hours to sounding betweenRottnest and the main. We bore away at 4 P. M. To search for a bank saidto exist about fifteen miles north from the middle of Rottnest Island, having from twenty to twenty-two fathoms over it. Near the positionassigned we certainly shoaled our water from twenty-eight to twenty-fourfathoms, but no other indication of a bank was to be found. 

Satisfied that we had now no further reason for delay, we kept awayNorth-West with a fresh southerly wind, and the glad omen of a brilliantsunset. 

January 5. 

We were rather surprised to find by our observation at noon, noindication of a northerly current, though yesterday when becalmed betweenRottnest and the main we were drifted to the northward at the rate ofnearly two knots per hour. We sounded regularly every four hours, butfound no bottom at 200 fathoms: the wind during the morning was lightfrom South-South-West but during the night we had it fresh fromSouth-East. 

January 6. 

We passed, at midnight, within 60 miles of the position assigned in thechart to the low coral group known as Houtman's Abrolhos, * and againsounded unsuccessfully with 200 fathoms. 

(*Footnote. Subsequent observations placed these islands 30 miles more tothe eastward than the position there assigned them. Our track, therefore, was really 90 miles from them. )

We continued steering a northerly course up to the 9th, keeping withinfrom 60 to 80 miles distance of the coast, and repeating our deep-seasoundings every six hours without success. 

INDICATIONS OF A SQUALL. 

The wind during each day was moderate from the South-South-West and Southby West, freshening during the night from South, and South by East; aheavy swell was its constant companion, and the barometer fell to 29. 75. On the morning of the 9th, being in the parallel of North-west Cape, ourcourse was altered to North-East by East; it blew hard during the night, and we had a disagreeable sea; but, as usual, it moderated again towardsthe morning. 

We had shaped a course to make a reef in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes, and named after its discoverer, Lieutenant Ritchie, R. N. ; but owing toits being situated, as we afterwards found, half a degree to the eastwardof its assigned position in the charts, we did not see it. 

At 4 A. M. , and with 195 fathoms, we reached a bottom of sand, brokenshells, and coral, being then about 80 miles North-North-East fromTremouille Island, the nearest land. Steering East by North 1/2 North for31 miles, brought us to our noon position in latitude 19 degrees 20minutes South, longitude 116 degrees 16 minutes East, and into a depth of120 fathoms, with the same kind of bottoms. South-South-West, 17 milesfrom our morning position, Captain King had 83 and 85 fathoms; from thiswe may suppose the edge of the bank of soundings, extending off this partof the coast, to be very steep. These soundings, together with those ofCaptain King, as above, may give some idea of the nature and extent ofthis bank, which seems to be a continuation of the flat extendingNorth-North-East 40 miles, connecting Barrow and Tremouille Islands withthe main: its outer edge being kept heaped up thus steeply by theconstant action of the current sweeping round the North-west Cape. 

DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. 

We continued steering East and by North 1/2 North, and at sunset, 14miles from our noon position, the water had deepened to 145 fathoms, bottom a fine white sand and powdered shells. Before we were 50 milesfrom our noon position, we could find no bottom with 200 fathoms. 

January 12. 

We made but slow progress during the night, and felt delay the moretedious from the eager anxiety with which we desired sight of the landwhere our duties were to begin in earnest. We were not successful withour soundings till 6 P. M. , when we had the same kind of bottom as beforedescribed, with 117 fathoms: 15 miles East by North 1/2 North from ournoon position, which was 220 miles West by South from Roebuck Bay: 30miles in the same direction from our noon position, we shoaled our waterto 85 fathoms, the ground retaining the same distinctive character. Wehad the wind from South-West to South-East during the afternoon, but at 6P. M. It chopped round to North-North-West, when, too, for the first time, we perceived lightning to the South-East--Barometer 29. 92; thermometer85. 

January 13. 

The preceding indications of the coming squall, which had given us fulltime for preparation, were realized about one o'clock this morning, whenit reached us, though only moderately, from South-East. It was precededby the rise and rapid advance of a black cloud in that quarter, just asCaptain King has described. 

ATMOSPHERIC TEMPERATURE. 

At noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 119degrees 18 minutes East, and in soundings of 75 fathoms, fine white sand, broken shells, and fragments of dead coral. There was only a slightvariation in the atmospheric temperature of two degrees during thetwenty-four hours, the highest in the day being 85, and the lowest atnight 83. The water was very smooth, but as night approached it thunderedand lightened heavily and vividly, and most of us noticed and sufferedfrom a particularly oppressive and overpowering state of the atmosphere, which the heat indicated by the thermometer was by no means sufficientlyintense to account for. 

January 14. 

During the last twenty-four hours we had made but 51 miles progress inthe direction of Roebuck Bay; our noon observations placed us in latitude18 degrees 25 minutes South, longitude 120 degrees 13 minutes East, beingabout 80 miles from the nearest land. We obtained soundings at 72fathoms, yellow sand and broken shells. During the afternoon, it beingnearly a calm, we found ourselves surrounded by quantities of fish, aboutthe size of the mackerel, and apparently in pursuit of a number of smalland almost transparent members of the finny tribe, not larger than theminnow. 

We sounded at sunset, and found bottom at 52 fathoms, which shoaled byhalf-past ten to 39. The circumstance, however, occasioned no surprise, as we had run South-South-East 25 miles, in a direct line for that lowportion of the coast from which the flat we were running over extends. 

The first part of the night we had the wind at North-North-East, thebreeze steady, and the water as smooth as glass; but as the watch woreon, quick flashes of forked lightning, and the suspicious appearance ofgathering clouds in the South-East, gave warning of the unwelcomeapproach of a heavy squall. 

HEAVY SQUALL. 

At eleven we lay becalmed for ten minutes between two contending winds;that from the South, however, presently prevailed, and shifting to theSouth-East, blew hard: meantime, a dark mass of clouds in theEast-South-East appeared suddenly to assume the form of a deep-cavernedarchway, and moved rapidly towards us; in a few minutes, the ship washeeling majestically to the passing gust, the lightning flashed vividlyand rapidly around us, alternately concealing and revealing the troubledsurface of the foam-covered sea, while the thunder rolled heavily overour heads. 

The squall was heavy while it lasted, commencing at East-South-East andending at East-North-East. It was accompanied by heavy rain. Towards theend of the middle watch, the weather began to assume a more settledappearance, and we had a moderate breeze from the north; but between fiveand six o'clock A. M. , it shifted suddenly by the West toSouth-South-East, and became light. We sounded repeatedly during thenight in from 32 to 35 fathoms, the same kind of bottom as before; whichwe found agree very well with those reported in the account of the Frenchexpedition under Captain Baudin. 

From the specimens of the squalls we experienced the last two nights, andwhich appear to be pretty regular in their visitation, I am inclined tobelieve they do not extend any considerable distance from the land. Theygive the seaman ample warning of their approach; yet, since they alwayscome on in the night, when their violence cannot be properly estimated, the ship's head should (if circumstances permit) be kept to the westward(West-North-West) until the short-lived fury of the storm has exhausteditself. 

January 15. 

We progressed with light and variable airs through the day, graduallyshoaling our water till nine P. M. , when the anchor was dropped in 14fathoms, having previously passed over a rocky ledge of apparently coralformation, in 13 1/2 fathoms. The land over the south point of RoebuckBay bore East-South-East, about 17 miles distant; but we did not see ittill the following morning. 

DRIVEN FROM THE ANCHORAGE. 

The evening wore a threatening aspect, though not apparently so much tobe dreaded as that of yesterday; however, we were disagreeably out in ouranticipations, for about three o'clock A. M. (January 16) a heavy squallburst on us, veering from East-South-East to East-North-East, broke ourbest bower anchor, and drove us half a mile out to sea, when theremaining fluke hooked a rock and brought us up. It rained and blew tilldaylight, then we were again favoured with fine weather, and lightwesterly winds. The land was now in sight, Cape Villaret being the mostnortherly point, and bearing East-South-East some 16 or 17 miles. Thehillock upon this cape, and two other hummocks, lying to the southward, formed the only prominent features of the low land in sight. 

CAPE VILLARET. 

At this anchorage the flood-tide set East and by North, from one to oneand a half knots per hour. Before weighing I procured a specimen of livecoral from the depth of 11 fathoms. 

Light airs, and the aid of the flood-tide, carried us into the centre ofRoebuck Bay, where we came to an anchor in 7 fathoms, Cape Villaretbearing South by West 1/2 West about 10 miles. The fall of the tide herewas no less than 18 feet. 

As we closed with the land, I had a good opportunity of speculating uponits appearance, and the probability of our investigation confirming orcontradicting the opinion entertained by Captains King and Dampier, thata channel would be found to connect Roebuck Bay with an opening behindBuccaneers Archipelago, thus making Dampier's Land an island. I confess, my own impressions at first sight differed from that of those highauthorities, nor did a nearer examination shake my opinion. CapeVillaret, a short ridge lying East and West, and about 150 feet high, wasstill the most remarkable object; the sand on its side having a curiousred appearance. From the masthead the land was not visible to theeastward for the space of one point of the compass; yet its levelcharacter, and the shoalness of the water, led alike to the opinion thatno such communication as supposed would be found to exist. 

January 17. 

Collecting materials for the chart was the chief occupation of the day. Mr. Usborne discovered a high-water inlet in the south shore of the bay, five miles east of Cape Villaret, having a dry bank of sand before it atlow-water. 

VISIT FROM THE NATIVES. 

While the party were on shore, they were visited by six of the natives, alarger race of men than those on the south coast, naked, with theexception of a grass mat round the waist, and the hair straight and tiedup behind, seemingly ignorant of the use of the throwing stick, butcarrying spears ill-shapen and unbarbed. One of them had a kiley, orboomerang, and each carried a rude hatchet of stone. None of them hadsuffered the loss of the front tooth, which, with some tribes, is adistinction of manhood. When asked by signs for fresh water, of which ourparty saw no traces, they pointed to the South-East; a circumstance whichI record, as it may possibly be of some service to future explorers. Asthe boat was leaving, one of them, supposing, I presume, that they wereout of our reach, and might therefore attack us with impunity, threw astone at the boat, which luckily did no harm, though hurled with greatdexterity and force. Upon this, a pistol was discharged over their heads, when they retired with far greater rapidity than they had advanced. 

AN ALMOST WHITE RACE. 

Mr. Usborne mentions, in an account of this interview (published in theNautical Magazine for 1840, page 576) that one of the party differed inseveral physical characteristics from the rest. After describing them ingeneral terms as being from five feet six, to five feet nine inches tall, broad shoulders, long and slight legs, large heads, and overhangingbrows--he continues, "There was an exception in the youngest, whoappeared of an entirely different race: his skin was a copper colour, while the others were black; his head was not so large, and more rounded;the overhanging brow was lost; the shoulders more of a European turn; andthe body and legs much better proportioned; in fact, he might beconsidered a well-made man, at our standard of figure. " A similarinstance of meeting with one of a tribe, not apparently belonging to thesame subdivision of the human family as those by whom he was surrounded, is recorded by Captain Grey, who speaks indeed of the existence of adistinct race, totally different (i. E. From the other aborigines) andalmost white. I cannot say that I have myself encountered any of thesealmost white men, whose existence, as a distinct race, Captain Greyappears to have rather hastily admitted; such variation in form andcolour as Mr. Usborne alludes to, may, however, be accounted for by theintercourse which the natives on the north coast hold from time to timewith the Malays. 

Several very large black martins, with white or grey heads, were hoveringover the ship this morning; and many flights of small white tern, and abird, commonly called the razor-bill, passed and re-passed the ship everymorning and evening, flying from the bay to seaward, and returning atsunset. Two water snakes were shot alongside the ship during the day; thelargest measured four feet, and was of a dirty yellow colour. Agood-sized fish was taken from the stomach of one of them. Their fangswere particularly long, and very much flattened, having no cutting edgewhatever. 

Some turtle also passed the ship to-day, and a day or two afterwards wewere fortunate enough to shoot one which weighed 160 pounds: he had amplejustice done to his merits. It was high-water at 1. 50 P. M. , and thestream changed at the same time, a circumstance conclusivelydemonstrating that we were not anchored in a strait. 

January 18. 

We got underweigh in the morning, but from the shallowness of the wateranchored within a mile east of our former position. 

THE NATIVE MIAGO. 

The native Miago, who had accompanied us from Swan River, was mostearnest in his inquiries about the savages, as soon as he understood thatsome of them had been seen. He appeared delighted that theseblackfellows, as he calls them, have no throwing sticks; for though attimes exceedingly valiant in conversation, and very anxious to kill oneof the men, and carry off one of their gins, or wives--the great end, aim, and ambition of all Australian force or policy--he yet evidentlyholds these northmen in great dread. They are, according to his account, "Bad men--eat men--Perth men tell me so: Perth men say, Miago, you go onshore very little, plenty Quibra men* go, you go. " These instructionsappear to have been very carefully pressed upon him by his associates, and certainly they had succeeded in inspiring him with the utmost dreadof this division of his fellow countrymen, which all his boasting aboutkilling some of them and taking one of their women as proof of hisprowess, back to Perth, failed to concern. 

(*Footnote. I. E. Men of the ship. )

CLOUDS OF MAGELLAN. 

He gave me this evening a new reason to account for the appearance of thetwo small clouds called after the celebrated Magellan, in the followingwords: "You see, " said he, pointing up to the sky, "little smoke. " Iassented at once; for certainly the clouds have very much the appearanceof that to which he compared them: he then continued: "Perth man tell me, long, long time back, he make fire, smoke go far away up, far away, stopand never go away more. " Miago evidently believed that his friend atPerth had really lighted the fire, the smoke of which had thus gone up"far away, far away, " to "stop and never go away more. " I can easilyenough comprehend why the assertion might be made, and possibly withoutany intention to deceive upon the part of the asserter, who may firsthave seen the clouds after watching the ascent of his own fire smokethrough the still air, in the same direction; but that it should beimplicitly believed, as it evidently was by Miago, upon the mere word ofhis fellow countryman, did, I own, astonish me; and seems to indicatethat, in their social intercourse with each other, they may have moreregard for truth than I was at first inclined to give them credit for. 

USELESS BAY. 

Mr. Usborne was away to-day in one of the boats, seeking a berth for theship higher up the bay: upon his return he reported that he had been overthe banks before mentioned, upon which he found the water very shoal: theface of the country he described as exceedingly low, with mud lumps notunlike ant-hills, * scattered here and there over the face of it, andseveral clusters of small trees. Natives also had been seen, though noopportunity of approaching them had occurred, as the moment theirrestless eyes, or quick ears, detected our approach, they most rapidlyretreated. 

(*Footnote. Subsequent experience literally verified this opinion. )

HEAT AND SICKNESS. 

January 19. 

Two boats were despatched this morning, under Mr. Usborne's command, toexamine the eastern part of what I think may be named very properlyUseless Bay. This would have been my duty, had I not unfortunately beentaken ill in the evening of the preceding day: the symptoms were violentheadache, and a disordered state of the stomach, caused, the surgeonsays, by the oppressive and overpowering heat which we have experiencedfor the last few days, and the general effects of which seem moredistressing to the ship's company than is often experienced under ahigher range of the thermometer; the deprivation of all power, or energy, is one of its most unpleasant consequences. I am inclined to think thatone reason for its great and wearying effect upon most of us--indeed, more or less, all are suffering from it--is that there is hardly anyvariation in temperature during the whole twenty-four hours: it sometimesdoes not amount to more than two or three degrees. Captain Wickham andthe surgeon visited an inlet near the ship to-day, which had indeed beenlooked into, but not explored before. They proceeded to the south-westfor about three miles, through a very tortuous channel, dry in many partsat low-water, thickly studded with mangrove bushes, over and throughwhich the tide made its way at high-water, giving to that part of thecountry the appearance of an extensive morass. A slightly elevatedtable-topped range of land was seen from time to time, some eight or ninemiles to the south-east, but in its highest elevation did not reach 200feet. The apparent width of the inlet in no way diminished so far as theexploring party examined it; and this fact, coupled with the generalcharacter of the country hereabouts, induces me to suppose that theperiodical return of the spring tide, floods the greater part of thecoast between the sea shore and the base of the range I have alluded to. Vampires of a very large kind were here met with, the furthest south wehad seen them. 

MIAGO ON SHORE. 

Miago had accompanied this party on shore, though he evidently showed nogreat devotion to the deed. They said he watched everything, aye, everybush, with the most scrutinizing gaze: his head appeared to turn upon apivot, so constantly was it in motion, with all that restlesswatchfulness for which the savage is ever remarkable. The heat to-dayeither exceeded an average, or else perhaps, as an invalid, I noticed itmore closely:

On shore, it was 98 degrees in the shade. On board, it was 90 degrees in the shade. Pulling off in the boats 118. During the day, it fluctuated, between 88 and 94. 

A breeze from seaward blew the greater part of each night fromWest-South-West, hauling round to south in the morning. 

January 20. 

Our noon observation to-day enabled us to fix the latitude of CapeVillaret 18 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds, which precisely agrees withthat assigned to it by Captain King. 

MR. USBORNE WOUNDED. 

In the afternoon the boats returned with Mr. Usborne, who had beenunfortunately very severely wounded by the accidental discharge of amusket. It appeared that after a careful examination of the bay, whichended as I had anticipated, in proving that no opening to the interiorwould be found in it, the party were returning to the boats, when, fromthe accidental explosion of a musket in the hand of one of the party, aball entered Mr. Usborne's right side, near the spine, between the lowerrib and hip bone, making an exit in a line with the navel. This trulyunfortunate circumstance--which for some weeks deprived the expedition ofthe services of a most valuable officer--occurred about 10 o'clock A. M. , but the time and trouble of carrying the sufferer through the mud to theboats, and then pulling some 15 miles, made it near 6 o'clock before hewas on board and under the charge of Mr. Bynoe: we were all shocked tosee our companion lifted apparently lifeless into the vessel he had sorecently quitted full of health, and animated by an anxious desire to doall in his power to conduce to the general success; but were ere longassured by Mr. Bynoe, whose personal or professional merits need noeulogium from me--and who immediately and most carefully attended ourwounded messmate--that the best results might be reasonably hoped for: aprediction shortly afterwards happily verified. At the time this unluckyaccident occurred, some twenty natives rushed from the concealment whencethey had been doubtless watching all the proceedings of the party, asthough they designed to bear a part in what probably seemed to them, aspoor Usborne went down, an approaching fray: however, the sight of thetwo boats in the distance, which upon deploying they had full in view, deterred them from acting upon any hostile intentions, supposing such tohave existed in their minds. 

LOADED PISTOLS LEFT BEHIND. 

The accident, however, and their sudden appearance, could only serveadditionally to flurry the little party who had to convey their disabledofficer to a place of safety, and Mr. Helpman, who may well be pardonedthe want of his usual self-possession at such a moment, left behind apair of loaded pistols. They would puzzle the savages greatly of course, but I hope no ill consequences ensued: if they began pulling them about, or put them in the fire, the better to separate the wood and iron, two orthree poor wretches might be killed or maimed for life, and their firstrecollections of the Quibra men, as Miago calls us, would naturally beanything but favourable. 

Thus disastrously terminated our examination of Roebuck Bay, in which thecheering reports of former navigators, no less than the tenor of ourhydrographical instructions had induced us to anticipate the discovery ofsome great water-communication with the interior of this vast Continent. A most thorough and careful search--in which everyone seemed animated byone common and universal sentiment, prompting all to a zealous dischargeof duty--had clearly demonstrated that the hoped-for river must be soughtelsewhere: and that very fact which at first seemed to lessen theprobabilities of ultimate success, served rather to inspire than todaunt; since while it could not shake our reliance upon the opinions ofthose best qualified to decide, that such a river must ultimately bediscovered, it only narrowed the ground upon which energy, knowledge, andperseverance had yet to undergo their probation, ere they enjoyed theirreward!

THE BOYL-YAS. 

Our intercourse with the natives had been necessarily of the most limitedcharacter, hardly amounting to anything beyond indulging them with thesight of a new people, whose very existence, notwithstanding theapathetic indifference with which they regarded us, must have appeared aprodigy. What tradition may serve to hand down the memory of our visit tothe third generation, should no newer arrival correct its gatheringerrors, and again restore some vestige of the truth, it is hardlypossible to imagine; but should any misfortune follow their possession ofMr. Helpman's pistols, that in particular will be narrated as the motivefor the visit of those white men who came flying upon the water, and leftsome of the secret fire upon the peaceful coast: and when again the whitesails of the explorer glisten in the distant horizon, all the imaginaryterrors of the Boyl-yas, * will be invoked to avert the coming of thosewho bring with them the unspeakable blessings of Christian civilization. 

(*Footnote. The natives in the neighbourhood of Swan River give this nameto their Sorcerers. )

CHAPTER 1. 5. FROM ROEBUCK BAY TO SKELETON POINT. 

Departure from Roebuck Bay. Appearance of the Country. Progress to the northward. Hills and Cliffs. French Names and French Navigators. Tasman, and his account of the Natives. Hazeygaeys and Assagais. His Authenticity as an Historian. Description of the Natives. Marks and mutilations. Phrenological Development. Moral condition. Proas, Canoes, and Rafts. Another squall. Anchor in Beagle Bay. Face of the Country. Palm Trees. Dew. Hauling the Seine. A meeting with Natives. Eastern Salutation. Miago's conduct towards, and opinion of, his countrymen. Mutilation of the Hand. Native smokes seen. Move further to the North-East. Point Emeriau. Cape Leveque. Point Swan. Tide-races. Search for water. Encountered by Natives. Return to the Ship. The attempt renewed. Conduct of the Natives. Effect of a Congreve Rocket after dark. A successful haul. More Natives. Miago's Heroism. The plague of Flies. Dampier's description of it. Native Habitations. Underweigh. Wind and weather. Tidal Phenomenon. Natural History. Singular Kangaroo. Bustard. Cinnamon Kangaroo. Quails. Goanas and Lizards. Ant Hills. Fishing over the side. A day in the Bush. A flood of fire. Soil and Productions. White Ibis. Curious Tree. Rain water. Geology of the Cliffs. Weigh, and graze a Rock, or Touch and go. The Twins. Sunday Strait. Roe's Group. Miago and his friends. A black dog. A day of rest. Native raft. Captain King and the Bathurst. A gale. Point Cunningham. Successful search for water. Native estimation of this fluid. Discovery of a Skeleton. And its removal. The grey Ibis. Our parting legacy. 

DEPARTURE FROM ROEBUCK BAY. 

January 22, 1838. 

Satisfied that no inland communication could be expected from RoebuckBay, we weighed in the early part of the morning, and stood away to thenorthward. 

APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 

Roebuck Bay, so named to commemorate the name of Dampier's ship, is aboutsixteen miles across: the southern shores are low, and extensivesandbanks and mud flats are bared at low-water. Near the North-East pointof the bottom of this bay, is a curious range of low cliffs, from twentyto thirty feet high, and strongly tinged with red, in such a manner as tosuggest that they must be highly impregnated with oxide of iron. In theneighbourhood of these cliffs the country had a more fertile, or rather aless desolate appearance, stretching out into extensive plains, lightlytimbered with various trees of the genus Eucalypti, while, on the southshore of the bay, the mangroves were numerous. 

Towards the afternoon we discovered a small inlet, being then about 30miles from our former anchorage in Roebuck Bay. We steered directly forit, and when within half a mile of its mouth, we had, at high-water, sixfathoms. From the masthead I could trace distinctly the course of thisinlet, which at this state of the tide appeared to be of great extent;but the bar which locked its mouth, and over which the sea was breakingvery heavily, rendered it impossible to take a boat across withoutevident risk, by which no real good would be obtained, as the rise andfall of the tide, eighteen feet, on this low coast, was more thansufficient to account for the imposing, though deceptive appearance ofthis opening. From the main-top-gallant yard I was enabled to take analmost bird's-eye view of the level country stretched apparently at myfeet. The shore, like the south side of Roebuck Bay, was fringed withmangroves, while to the North-North-East lay an extensive plain, overwhich the water seemed, at certain seasons of the year, to flow. Thecountry around, for miles, wore the appearance of an interminable andboundless plain, with an almost imperceptible landward elevation, andthickly wooded with stunted trees. 

In sailing along this part of the coast we found several inaccuracies inCaptain King's chart, doubtless owing to the distant view with which hewas compelled to content himself, and to the unfavourable state of theweather against which he had to contend. I was on deck nearly, indeed, the whole of the night, baffled by flying clouds in my attempts to fixour latitude by the stars: at length, however, I succeeded inascertaining it to be 17 degrees 40 minutes South. 

January 23. 

The morning was fine, but the wind we had experienced the preceding nightcaused a rather heavy swell, which rendered the attempt to enter thisinlet an impracticable task; however, it was tried. We found between theship and the shore six, four, and two fathoms, but as the mouth of theinlet was filled with breakers, apparently on a bar extending out half amile, I was fully convinced that further perseverance would only amountto waste of time and needless risk, and therefore, after taking a fewangles to fix the position of the boat, we returned on board. It appearedat low-water to be nearly dry, and then only amounted to a collection ofmud and sandbanks. The examination quite satisfied me that it partook ofthe same character as the one already spoken of as seen yesterday, andthat they are alike useless. 

We were soon underway, and standing towards, or rather along, the shore;and as the day advanced, the wind drew more to the westward, a commonoccurrence, enabling us to lay along the shore, North 1/2 East. By fourP. M. , we were within two miles of it, in nine fathoms. 

The coast here is fronted with a range of sandhills, some of which aretopped with verdure: several low black rocky points extend for somedistance from the flat sandy beach into the sea. I have no hesitation insaying, that this is a kind of black sandstone, often found at the basesof most cliffy points, and probably coloured by the chemical action ofthe saltwater. The sandhills, which form the coastline, do not appear toextend more than a mile inland. Beyond, the country appeared to subsideinto the same dull level which is the characteristic feature of what wehave yet seen of this coast, thickly studded with timber of a much finergrowth than the stunted productions of Roebuck Bay. Behind the cliffyparts of the coast the land assumed a more fertile appearance; and thisseemed an almost invariable law in the natural history of this new world. 

PROGRESS TO THE NORTHWARD. 

Five miles to the northward of Point Coulomb, we passed a reef, lying amile from the shore, with seven fathoms one mile seaward of it. The landnow trended to the eastward, and formed a large bay, the south point ofwhich we rounded at half past four P. M. The mangroves grew right down tothe water's edge, and the spring tides appear to inundate the country toa very considerable extent, the land here being lower than any we had yetseen. We anchored, at half past eight, in six and a half fathoms, and Iran below to find how our wounded messmate had borne the day. 

From my usual post, the masthead, I traced the shore from point to pointof Carnot Bay, so named after the celebrated French consul and engineer. A very low sandy point bore North 67 degrees, East 6 miles. Sandbanks andbreakers completely fortified its shores, and effectually forbid allapproach, except under the most favourable circumstances. 

LAND DISCOVERED BY TASMAN. 

The several French names with which Commodore Baudin has distinguishedleading portions of this coast, of course, professional courtesy willwillingly respect; it is, however, only right to mention, that while hecontented himself with so distant a view of this part of Australia as tobe sometimes completely mistaken in the most important particulars, tothe celebrated Abel Tasman belongs the merit of having previously landedupon its shores in that very bay, which now bears the name of the greatrepublican. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. 

Tasman describes the natives as being quite naked, black in colour, andhaving curly hair, "malicious and cruel, " using for arms bows and arrows, hazeygaeys* and kalawaeys. They came, upon one occasion, fifty in number, to attack a party of the Dutch, who had landed, but took fright at thesight and sound of firearms. "Their proas, " he adds, "are made of thebark of trees, and they use no houses. "

(*Footnote. Hazeygaeys are synonymous with assagais, the name for theshort African spear, used by the tribes between Port Natal and the Cape, and which is generally supposed to be the native term for the weapon. Captain Harris, however, states that this supposition is incorrect; and, certainly, its appearance and termination here incline me to join him insuspecting it of aDutch origin. )

Such is the account of this distinguished and trustworthy discoverer, upon whose veracity I should be the last to attempt to affix suspicion:his very simplicity of detail, and the entire absence of rhetoricalartifice, would convey sufficient internal evidence of his truth, had notthe subsequent progress of Australian discovery served to confirm all thematerial facts of his narrative. I may, however, remark, that the nativesseen upon this coast during our cruise, within the limits of Roebuck Bayto the south, and Port George the Fourth to the north, an extent of morethan 200 miles, with the exception that I shall presently notice, agreedin having a common character of form, feature, hair, and physiognomy, which I may thus describe. The average height of the males may be takento be from five feet five inches to five feet nine inches, though, uponone occasion, I saw one who exceeded this height by an inch. They arealmost black--in fact, for ordinary description, that word, unqualifiedby the adverb, serves the purpose best. Their limbs are spare and light, but the muscle is finely developed in the superior joint of the arm, which is probably owing to their constant use of it in throwing thespear. Some tribes are entirely naked, while others wear girdles of skinand leaves, hardly sufficient, however, to serve any purpose of decency, much less of comfort. 

PHRENOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT. 

Their hair is always dark, sometimes straight and sometimes curled, andnot unfrequently tied up behind; but we saw no instance of a negro, orwoolly, head among them. They wear the beard upon the chin, but not uponthe upper lip, and allow it to grow to such a length as enables them tochamp and chew it when excited by rage; an action which they accompanywith spitting it out against the object of their indignation or contempt. They have very overhanging brows, and retreating foreheads, large noses, full lips, and wide mouths: in some cases they want the two foreteeth inthe upper jaw, and while, in any one tribe in which the custom prevails, it seems to be unanimous, it does not appear to be, by any means, universally diffused along the whole north-western coast. Theunfavourable impression produced by the prevailing character of theirphysiognomy, is confirmed, if their phrenological conformation is takeninto consideration; and certainly, if the principles of that science areadmitted to be true, these savages are woefully deficient in all thequalities which contribute to man's moral supremacy. Let me, in justice, add, that while we found them ignorant and incurious to the last degree, they were generally suspicious rather than treacherous, and notinsensible to such acts of kindness as they could comprehend. 

Upon all this extent of coast, we saw no single instance of the use, oreven existence, of any proa, or canoe; and my own opinion, strengthenedby personal experience, and enforced by the authority of the most recentnavigators, is, that the canoe is not used upon the north-west coast. Thenegative evidence, at least, is strongly in favour of this presumption;for, while we saw the canoe in use in Clarence Strait--the westernboundary of the northern coast--we saw nothing but the raft to the southof that point. I cannot, therefore, avoid the conclusion, that, misled bythe similarity of external appearance, Tasman mistook the raft ofunbarked timber for a bark canoe, such as he may have seen upon otherparts of the coast. 

We had a return of the same kind of squall from the eastward, as we hadexperienced before our arrival in Roebuck Bay, and from which, since thattime till now, we had luckily managed toescape. 

January 24. 

We were again at work by daylight, but were delayed, getting clear of thefoul ground, lying off Cape Baskerville, on which we twice shoaled thewater to three and five fathoms, five and seven miles West and by Southfrom that headland. 

BEAGLE BAY. 

The land over it rises to an elevation of nearly 200 feet, and then againbecomes low and sandy, opening out a bay, which from appearance promised, and wherein we afterwards found, good anchorage: it was named Beagle Bay, and may serve hereafter to remind the seamen who benefit by the survey inwhich that vessel bore so conspicuous a part, of the amount of hisobligations to the Government that sent her forth, the skill and energythat directed her course, and the patient discipline by which, during herlong period of active service, so much was done for the extension of ourmaritime knowledge. In the bight formed between this bay and CapeBaskerville we passed two high-water inlets; the mouths of both werefronted with rocky ledges. We anchored here, soon after midday, and hadevery reason to be satisfied with our berth. Beagle Bay is about threemiles broad and seven deep; the country around is low and open, andtraces of water deposit were visible in several spots to indicate itsdangerous proximity to the sea. The smaller shrubs of the country werecommon; and the mangroves flourished in great abundance on the beach, andalong the little creeks that diverge from it. Some large anthills, andvery small palm trees, not six feet in height, were noticed for the firsttime so far south. During the night the wind veered round to South-West, and blew quite fresh, a circumstance which made us additionally prize ourgood anchorage here. We had, however, no squall, nor any dew, which Ishould mention falls most copiously upon certain nights, without anyapparent indication; to these dews, the vegetation of this country, sofar as we can judge, seems to owe its principal nourishment and support. 

VISITED BY NATIVES. 

January 25. 

The forenoon was devoted to the examination of this excellent anchorage, and a party was also despatched to haul the seine. On landing they weremet by a party of natives, who saluted them in a manner which strikinglyresembled the eastern mode. They had no weapon, save one kiley orboomerang, and bowed down until they almost kissed the water. 

CONDUCT OF MIAGO. 

Their speech was shrill and quick, perfectly unintelligible to our friendMiago, who seemed greatly in fear of them: they seemed astonished to findone apparently of their own clime, complexion, and degree in company withthe white strangers, who must have seemed to them a different race ofbeings; nor was their wonder at all abated when Miago threw open hisshirt, and showed them his breast curiously scarred after theirfashion--for this custom of cutting stripes upon the body, as othersavages tattoo it, by way of ornament, seems universally to prevailthroughout Australia--as a convincing evidence that he, though now theassociate of the white man, belonged to the same country as themselves. When Miago had, in some degree, recovered from his alarm--and their wantof all weapons no doubt tended to reassure him more than anything else, he very sagaciously addressed them in English; shaking hands and saying, "How do you do?" and then began to imitate their various actions, andmimic their language, and so perfectly did he succeed that one of ourparty could not be persuaded but that he really understood them; thoughfor this suspicion I am convinced there was in truth no foundation. Ingeneral appearance this tribe differed but little from those we hadpreviously seen. They wore their hair straight, and tied behind in a rudesemblance of the modern queue; their beards were long, and two or threeamong them were daubed with a kind of black ochre. All of them had lostone of the front teeth, and several one finger joint;* in this particularthey differed from the natives seen in Roebuck Bay, amongst whom thepractice of this mutilation did not prevail. They were, I think, travelling to the southward, at the time they fell in with us, for theyhad no females among the party, by whom they are usually at other timesaccompanied. The circumstance of their being unarmed may seem to militateagainst the supposition that they were travelling, but it is to be bornein mind that these people universally consider the absence of offensiveweapons as the surest test of peaceful intentions, and would therefore, if they desired to maintain a friendly footing with the newcomers, mostprobably deposit their arms in some place of concealment before they madethemselves visible. 

(*Footnote. A similar custom was noticed by Captain Cook at the SandwichIslands, where it was regarded as a propitiatory sacrifice to the Eatooa, to avert his anger; and not to express, as the same mutilation does inthe Friendly Islands, grief for the loss of a friend. )

NATIVE SMOKES. 

The coast seems pretty thickly populated between Roebuck and Beagle Bays;as the smoke from native fires was constantly to be seen, but in allcases these signs of human existence were confined to the neighbourhoodof the sea. The fishing proved unsuccessful, so we were fain to contentourselves without the promised addition to our evening meal. We found thetide rise here 18 feet. 

In the afternoon we reached another anchorage, some ten miles further tothe North-East. The coast along which we sailed within the distance oftwo miles, was chiefly remarkable for its tall, dark-looking cliffs, withhere and there a small sandy bay intervening. We anchored under PointEmeriau, so named by Captain Baudin, by whom it was mistaken for anisland; its tall, white cliffs, springing from and guarded by a base andledges of black rock, and tinged with red towards their summits, renderit a point not easily to be mistaken or forgotten by any who have onceseen it. Beyond this the coast curved away to the eastward, forming abight about eleven miles in length. 

January 26. 

Leaving our anchorage at daylight, we passed the north point of the bightjust mentioned soon after noon; it is a low black rugged cliffy point, called Borda by the French, having a much more weather-beaten appearancethan would have been anticipated in this latitude. Behind it the countryrose obliquely, the horizon terminating in an inconsiderable, undulatory, and well-wooded elevation. 

CAPE LEVEQUE. 

We passed another bight in the afternoon, the shores of which were lowand rocky, with a mangrove creek in its depth: from this bight the coastbecomes almost straight, the line being hardly broken by rocky points andshallow sandy bays, to Cape Leveque, on the North-East side of which wefound an indifferent anchorage just before sunset. Cape Leveque is a redcliffy point some sixty feet in height, with an islet of the samecharacter lying close off it. The latter bore from our anchorage in 5fathoms, South 56 degrees West 2 miles, and 4 1/2 West 20 degrees Southfrom the entrance point of the inviting opening, we were now about toexplore, with an interest rather stimulated than decreased by the want ofsuccess that attended our examination of Roebuck Bay. 

POINT SWAN. 

This point was named by Captain King, Point Swan, in honour of CaptainSwan of the Cygnet, under whom Dampier first discovered it; and was anappropriate tribute of respect and admiration, from one distinguished noless than Dampier himself, by the possession of those qualities offirmness, patience, judgment and perseverance, which make up thecharacter of the scientific and adventurous navigator, to him by whom hehad been preceded in Australian discovery. The country between Point Swanand Cape Leveque has a very sandy and barren aspect; the hillocks nearthe latter partook of its prevailing red colour. 

TIDE-RACES. 

January 27. 

We proceeded this morning in the direction of Point Swan, and remarked, as we approached it, the heavy tide-race which used Captain King soroughly, and which subsequent surveying operations enabled us to accountfor, from great irregularity in the bottom, changing almost at once from40 to 17 fathoms. We waited, having no wish to experience the full effectof the current, for slack water, and thus passed round it quietly enough;we anchored in a small bight, South 20 degrees West 1 1/2 miles fromPoint Swan, in seven fathoms, which, as we rightly conjectured, wouldleave us in three, at low-water. *

(*Footnote. The following is Captain King's graphic account of hisencounter with this race: "On my way towards Point Swan, we saw from themasthead a line of strong tide ripplings, extending from the Point in aNorth-West by West direction, within which we at first attempted to pass;but finding they were connected to the Point, hauled up to steer throughthem where they seemed to be the least dangerous. As we approached, thenoise was terrific; and although we were not more than two minutesamongst the breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent, as tomake us fearful for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel wouldperhaps have been swamped; for although the sea was in other parts quitesmooth, and the wind light, yet the water broke over the bows, andstrained the brig considerably. ")

As we had now arrived at the point from which we anticipated carrying onour most important operations, it became of paramount interest to knowwhether we could rely for that indispensable article, fresh water, uponthe resources of the wild and barbarous shores. The vast extent ofcountry; the delightful verdure which clothed great portions of it; nay, even the evidences of a people living upon its shores, would, under anyother circumstances, and on any other coast, have been deemedconclusively to decide this point in the affirmative: but the voyagerknows, from the best authority, that upon the coasts, and within theheart of Australia, nature seems to delight in contradiction, and thatshe is more than usually capricious with respect to the supply of what isordinarily her most common, as it is ever one of her most precious gifts. A few wretched mud-holes might serve for a time to content the savagestrained to privation from their earliest infancy, but for ourselves itwas clear, either that a reasonable supply of fresh water must be foundhere, or we must not calculate upon remaining beyond the time which wouldleave us sufficient to proceed to Hanover Bay, where this most needfulcommodity was, upon the authority of Captain King, to be found. 

SEARCH FOR WATER. 

No sooner, therefore, was the Beagle properly secured in her new berth, than a party was despatched in the boats to commence a search for water, and to fix upon a spot for carrying on the necessary observations:scarcely, however, had we pushed off from alongside, before the whiteensign at our main warned us that the natives were in sight from theship, * and, on turning our eyes to the shore, we beheld it thronged withsavages: the rapidity of whose movements, as they shouted in apparentdefiance, brandishing their spears, and whirling their arms round andround with windmill-like velocity, as though to threaten our advance, rendered it impossible to estimate their number with any confidence, butthey were evidently in considerable force. However, we pulled to theshore, a measure against which the valiant Miago stoutly protested, andlanded in a position not directly commanded by the natives. They made noattempt to prevent us, but anxious to avoid hostilities--in every eventalmost equally deplorable--we deferred any distant search for water; andhaving fixed on a spot for our temporary observatory, returned to theship. 

(*Footnote. This signal was always made when natives were seen from theship, if any parties were away. )

January 27. 

A strong party was sent on shore, early this morning, with the necessarytools for digging a well, should the search for water upon the surfaceprove abortive. It was at once found that this operation ought forthwithto be commenced, and accordingly a promising spot was selected in avalley not half a mile from the sea. The natives mustered again in forceupon the heights, and seemed to watch our proceedings with the greatestinterest: we saw nothing of them the following day, but on the third theyseemed so much emboldened by our inoffensive proceedings, that theyapproached so near as to keep the party pretty much upon the alert. 

FIRE A CONGREVE ROCKET. 

It was, therefore, determined, lest familiarity should breed contempt, togive them a hint of our superiority without inflicting any injury upontheir persons or property; and, accordingly, shortly after dark we fireda Congreve rocket from the ship, and in a direction immediately overtheir presumed position: this had the desired effect, and ourwell-digging operations, though ultimately unsuccessful, proceededwithout further annoyance. 

CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 

Two or three days afterwards a small party came down upon the beach whilewe were hauling the seine; and tempted by the offer of some fish--for anAustralian savage is easily won by him who comes with things that do showso fair as delicacies in the gastronomic department--they approached us, and were very friendly in their manner, though they cunningly contrivedalways to keep the upper or inland side of the beach. We made them somepresents of beads, etc. From the stores supplied by the Admiralty forthat purpose, but they received them with an indifference almostamounting to apathy. They very closely examined the heroic Miago, whosubmitted to be handled by these much-dreaded Northern men with a veryrueful countenance, and afterwards construed the way in which one of themhad gently stroked his beard, into an attempt to take him by the throatand strangle him! an injury and indignity which, when safe on board, heresented by repeated threats, uttered in a sort of wild chant, ofspearing their thighs, backs, loins, and, indeed, each individual portionof the frame. 

PLAGUE OF FLIES. 

Their habit of keeping the eyes almost closed, and the head thrown back, in order to avoid the plague of flies, under which this country seems tosuffer, adds to the unpleasant expression of their countenance, and quitejustifies the correctness of Dampier's account: "Their eyelids are alwayshalf-closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes, they being sotroublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from coming to one'sface; and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off, theywill creep into one's nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips are not shutvery close; so that from their infancy, being thus annoyed with theseinsects, they do never open their eyes as do other people, and thereforethey cannot see far unless they hold up their heads, as if they werelooking at somewhat over them. " We found constant occasion, when onshore, to complain of this fly nuisance; and when combined with theirallies, the mosquitoes, no human endurance could, with any patience, submit to the trial. The flies are at you all day, crawling into youreyes, up your nostrils, and down your throat, with the most irresistibleperseverance; and no sooner do they, from sheer exhaustion, or the lossof daylight, give up the attack, than they are relieved by the musquitos, who completely exhaust the patience which their predecessors have soseverely tried. It may seem absurd to my readers to dwell upon such asubject; but those, who, like myself, have been half-blinded, and toboot, almost stung to death, will not wonder, that even at this distanceof time and place, I recur with disgust to the recollection. 

The natives, in all parts of the continent alike, seem to possess veryprimitive notions upon the subject of habitation; their most comfortablewigwams hardly deserve the name: not even in the neighbourhood of Englishsettlements are they beginning in any degree to imitate our Europeannotions of comfort. Among these northern people, the only approach toanything like protection from the skiey influences that I could discover, was a slight rudely thatched covering, placed on four upright poles, between three and four feet high. 

Another, of a much superior description, which I visited on the westernshore of King's Sound, will be found delineated in that part of myjournal to which the narrative belongs. 

WIND AND WEATHER. 

February 10. 

We remained at this anchorage until the 10th of February, in consequenceof a continuance of bad weather; indeed, the rain during the three firstdays of that month was at times of the most monsoon-like character, whilethe wind, constantly blowing very fresh, kept veering from North-West toSouth-West. Every now and then, by way of agreeable variety, a heavysquall would take us from South-South-West, though more commonly fromWest-South-West. The only certainty that we could calculate upon, was, that at North-North-West the wind would remain when it got there, stationary for a few hours. The thunder and lightning, the former loudand with a long reverberating peal, and the latter of the most intenselyvivid kind, were constantly roaring and flashing over our heads; and, with the stormy echoes which the rolling deep around woke on theseunknown and inhospitable shores, completed a scene that I shall nevercease to remember, as I never then beheld it without mingled emotions ofapprehension and delight. The rain, however, certainly befriended us inmore ways than one: it cooled the atmosphere, which would else have beeninsufferably hot, diminished for a time the number and virulence of ourwinged tormentors, and recruited our stock of fresh water; for, thoughultimately we were not obliged to have recourse to it as a beverage, itdid exceedingly well for washing purposes. We had also, during this time, one most successful haul with the seine, which amply supplied us withfresh fish for that and the two following days; the greater part were akind of large mullet, the largest weighed six pounds five ounces, andmeasured twenty-five inches in length. 

TIDAL PHENOMENON. 

On the same day we remarked, owing to the North-West wind, a singularphenomenon in the tides here. From half-ebb to high-water the streamwholly ceased, and the water being heaped up in the bay by the force ofthe wind, fell only sixteen, instead of twenty-four feet. 

Several sporting excursions were made during this period, but withcomparatively little success. It is not a country naturally very abundantin game of any kind, except kangaroos, which are numerous, but soharassed by the natives as to be of course extremely shy of the approachof man. 

SINGULAR KANGAROO. 

However, Mr. Bynoe succeeded in shooting one which possessed the singularappendage of a nail, like that on a man's little finger, attached to thetail. 

I regret that we had no subsequent opportunity to decide whether this wasone of a new species of the Macropodidae family, or a mere lusus naturae. The dimensions and height of this singular animal were as follows:*

Length of body from tip of nose: 22 inches. Length of tail from stump to tip: 24 1/2 inches. Weight: 13 pounds. 

(*Footnote. This animal has been classed by Mr. Gould as Macropusunguifer, and is now deposited in the British Museum. One preciselysimilar was afterwards killed on the east coast of the gulf ofCarpentaria. )

We also saw some very large red or cinnamon-coloured kangaroos, but nevergot near enough to secure one; they were apparently identical with a newrace, of which I afterwards procured a specimen at Barrow's Island. *

(*Footnote. Osphranter isabellinus. Gould. )

One day, when I had penetrated some considerable distance into the bush, farther indeed than any of our party had strayed before, I saw a largebustard, but was unable to get a shot at him; his anxious and acute gazehad detected me, at the same moment that I had discovered him, and he wasoff. I thought at the time that he bore a strong resemblance to the wildturkey of the colonists in the southern parts of the continent. We werelucky enough to shoot several quails of apparently quite a new species. In one particular they differed from the members of the genus Coturnis, in having no hind toe. Goannas and lizards were plentiful in thisneighbourhood, and some of the latter in particular were most brilliantin colour: they ran down the tall trees, in which they seem to pass agreat portion of their lives, at our approach, with a most marvellousrapidity, and darting along the ground, were soon in safety. 

ANTHILLS. 

But what, perhaps, most attracted our attention, was the very surprisingsize of the anthills, or nests. I measured one, the height of which was13 feet, and width at the base 7 feet; from whence it tapered graduallyto the apex. They are composed of a pale red earth; but how it issufficiently tempered, I am unable to state; certain is it, that it hasalmost the consistence of mortar, and will bear the tread of a man uponthe top. 

FISH. 

The fishing over the ship's side was not less successful than hauling theseine; though quite a different kind of fish was taken to reward thelabour of the saltwater Waltonians, who devoted themselves to it. Theygenerally secured (at slack water) a large fish, in shape like a bream, and with long projecting teeth. 

February 6. 

We made up a party on the 6th for the purpose of penetrating a little wayinto the interior, and got seven miles from the sea in a South by Westdirection. Everything wore a green and most delightful appearance; butthe reader must bear in mind, how vegetation had just been forced byheavy rains upon a light, heated soil, and also recollect that to one whohas been pent up for some time on board ship a very barren prospect mayseem delightful. 

NATIVE FIRES. 

The country was more open in character than I had before noticed it, andthe numerous traces of native fires which we found in the course of theexcursion, seemed readily to account for this: indeed during dry seasonsit not unfrequently happens, that an immense tract of land is desolatedwith fire, communicated, either by the design or carelessness of thenatives, to the dry herbage on the surface. The moment the flame has beenkindled it only waits for the first breath of air to spread it far andwide: then on the wings of the wind, the fiery tempest streams over thehillsides and through the vast plains and prairies: bushwood andherbage--the dry grass--the tall reed--the twining parasite--or the giantof the forest, charred and blackened, but still proudly erect--alikeattest and bewail the conquering fire's onward march; and the bleakdesert, silent, waste, and lifeless, which it leaves behind seems foreverdoomed to desolation: vain fear! the rain descends once more upon the dryand thirsty soil, and from that very hour which seemed the date ofcureless ruin, Nature puts forth her wondrous power with increasedeffort, and again her green and flower-embroidered mantle decks the earthwith a new beauty!

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. 

The soil of the extensive plain over which we journeyed this day, waslight and sandy in character, but the large amount of vegetable matterwhich it contains, and the effect of the late rains, which had penetratedsome 24 or 30 inches into it, made us perhaps somewhat overvalue its realmerits. This plain rose gradually before us until it reached an elevationof 180 feet above the level of the sea, and was covered with a long, thingrass, through which the startled kangaroo made off every now and then ata killing pace. 

The face of the country was well but not too closely covered withspecimens of the red and white gum, and paperbark tree, and severalothers. The timber was but small, the diameter of the largest, a red gum, 18 inches. 

Ever and anon the sparkling brilliant lizards darted down from theirresting places among the boughs, so rapid in their fearful escape, thatthey caught the eye more like a flash of momentary light, than living, moving forms. We flushed in the course of the day a white bird, or atleast nearly so, with a black ring round the neck, and a bill crookedlike the ibis, which bird indeed, except in colour, it more resemblesthan any I have ever seen. *

(*Footnote. Since ascertained to be an Ibis--the Threskiornisstrictipennis. )

Among the trees seen in the course of this ramble, I had almost forgottento mention one which struck me more than any other from its resemblanceto a kind of cotton tree, used by the natives of the South Sea islands inbuilding their canoes. 

February 7. 

The day following we secured several boat-loads of rainwater, depositedin the holes of the rocks, near our temporary observatory, and were thebetter pleased with our success, as our well-digging had provedunsuccessful. 

GEOLOGY OF THE CLIFFS. 

There was something particularly striking in the geological formation ofthe cliffs that form the western side of this bay: and which rise from 70to 90 feet in height, their bases apparently resting amid huge andirregular masses of the same white sandstone as that which forms thecliffs themselves, and from which this massive debris, strewn in allconceivable irregularity and confusion around, appears to have beenviolently separated by some great internal convulsion. 

Some of these great masses, both of the living cliff and ruined blocksbeneath, are strangely pierced with a vein or tube of vitreous matter, not less in some instances than 18 inches in diameter. In every place thespot at which this tube entered the rock was indicated by a considerableextent of glazed or smelted surface; but I am not sufficiently versed inthe science of geology to offer any specific theory to account for theappearances I have described: the cliffs were rent and cracked in athousand different ways, and taking into consideration their strange andwrecked appearance, together with the fact that lightning is known tovitrify sand, may we not thus get a clue to the real agency by whichthese results have been produced?*

(*Footnote. Since this was written, I have consulted my friend, Mr. Darwin, who has kindly examined a specimen I brought away. He pronouncesit "a superficial highly ferrugineous sandstone, with concretionary veinsand aggregations. " The reader should, however, consult Mr. Darwin's workon the Geology of Volcanic Islands page 143. )

WEIGH AND GRAZE ON A ROCK. 

February 10. 

The weather was thick and gloomy, and it rained fast; but, havingcompleted our survey and observations, and the wind being favourable, itwas resolved to get underweigh without further loss of time. 

In the very act of weighing, the ship's keel grazed a sunken rock, of theexistence of which, though we had sounded the bay, we had been, till thatmoment, in ignorance! He only who has felt the almost animated shudderthat runs through the seemingly doomed ship at that fearful moment, canunderstand with what gratitude we hailed our escape from the treacherousfoe. 

In passing out, we named two low small rocky islands, lying north ofPoint Swan, and hitherto unhonoured with any particular denomination, theTwins. It should be noted, that the tide did not begin to make to thesouthward till 8 hours 15 minutes A. M. , being full half an hour afterlow-water by the shore. We passed through several tide races; not, however, feeling their full force, owing to our encountering them at thetime of slack water. In every case our soundings indicated greatirregularity of bottom, the cause to which I have already assigned theseimpediments to in-shore navigation. 

SUNDAY STRAIT. 

We found a temporary anchorage the same morning, on the east side of thelarge group forming the eastern side of Sunday Strait; so named byCaptain King, who was drifted in and out of it on that day, August 19th, 1821, amid an accumulation of perils that will long render the firstnavigation of this dangerous Archipelago a memorable event in the annalsof nautical hardihood. 

ROE'S GROUP. 

This group we called after Lieutenant Roe, R. N. , Surveyor-General ofWestern Australia, who had accompanied Captain King in that perilousvoyage, and whose valuable information had enabled us to escape so manyof the dangers to which our predecessors had been exposed. 

Nothing could exceed the desolate appearance of the land near which wewere now lying: rocks, of a primitive character, massed together in allthe variety of an irregularity, that rather reminded the beholder ofNature's ruin than her grandeur, rose, drear and desolate, above thesurrounding waters; no trees shaded their riven sides, but thewater-loving mangrove clothed the base of this sterile island, and acoarse, wiry grass was thinly spread over its sides. 

MIAGO AND HIS FRIENDS. 

Soon after we had anchored, some natives were observed by Miago watchingus from the shore; and shortly afterwards a party landed, to attemptcommunicating with them, and to get the necessary observations for thesurvey. In the first object they failed altogether; for theseblackfellows, as that gallant hero called them, retired to the heights, and, while closely watching every movement, refused to trust themselveswithin our reach. The smallness of their number, and their want of arms, quite elevated the courage of Miago, who loudly vaunted his intention ofmonopolizing a northern gin, in order to astonish his friends upon ourreturn to the south: stealing away the ladies being, as I have beforeremarked, the crowning and most honourable achievement of which man, inthe eyes of these savages, is capable. I ought not to omit remarkinghere, that the natives seen to-day were accompanied by a black dog; theonly instance in which, before or since, we observed the existence of adog of that colour in this vast country. Captain King mentions that hesaw one in this neighbourhood during his visit in 1821. 

DAY OF REST. 

The following day was Sunday, and, there being no absolute necessity toshift our berth, we remained at anchor; marking the character of thissacred festival, by giving it up to the crew, for healthful rest andharmless recreation--after morning prayers had been performed--as much asthe needful discipline, upon a proper observance of which the efficiencyof a ship's company entirely depends, would allow. This practice, constantly observed throughout our long voyage, was always attended withthe best results. 

Some rather small pigeons, * of a dark brown colour, marked with a whitepatch on the wings, were seen, and some specimens shot. They made awhirring sound in flight, like the partridge, and appeared to haunt therocks; a habit which all subsequent observation confirmed. 

(*Footnote. Petrophila albipennis. Gould. )

February 12. 

Soon after daylight we left this anchorage, whose exact position Imention, as it may be of use to some future voyager in these seas. Theeastern of the three islands north of Roe's group was just open of thenorth point of the bight in which we lay, and a small rocky islet closeto the shore bore South-South-West one mile; we had five fathoms atlow-water in the bight, and twelve immediately outside. 

After making a stretch to the southward for about five miles, insoundings varying from 20 to 25 fathoms, we again closed with the shore, and anchored in five fathoms, on the south side of Roe's group, threemiles from our former anchorage. A party landed in the afternoon toprocure the requisite observations: the country was not quite so sterile, nor its face of so rugged a character. 

NATIVE RAFT. 

We found nothing worth particular attention, except a native raft, thefirst we had yet seen. It was formed of nine small poles pegged together, and measured ten feet in length by four in breadth; the greatest diameterof the largest pole was three inches. All the poles were of the palmtree, a wood so light, that one man could carry the whole affair with thegreatest ease. By it there was a very rude double-bladed paddle. 

From a distant station I looked upon the dangerous and rapid current, which divides two rocky islands, and the perils of which are fearfullyincreased by the presence of an insulated rock in its centre, past which(its fury only heightened by the opposition) the torrent hurries withaccelerated force. 

CAPTAIN KING AND THE BATHURST. 

It was by this fearful passage that Captain King entered this part of theSound, drifting towards apparently instant destruction, without a breathof wind to afford him even a chance of steering between the variousperils that environed his devoted ship. As the Bathurst swept past theneighbouring shores--covered with the strange forms of the howlingsavages who seemed to anticipate her destruction, and absolutely withinthe range of their spears--drifting with literally giddy rapidity towardsthe fatal rocks, what varied thoughts must have flashed, crowding an agewithin an hour, upon the mind of her commander? It seemed that allevidence of what his own perseverance, the devotion of his officers, andthe gallantry of his crew, had accomplished for the honour of theircommon country, would in a few brief moments be the prey of the rapid, the spoil of the deep; and yet, while many a heart sent up its voicelessprayer to HIM, whose arm is not shortened that it cannot save, believingthat prayer to be their last--not a cheek blanched--not an eye quailed!But the loving-kindness of omnipotent mercy rested even upon thatsolitary ship, and within a few yards of the fatal rock, one momentarybreath of wind, proved HIS providential care, for those from whom allhope had fled! I shuddered as the events Captain King has recorded, roseup in palpable distinctness to my view, and afterwards, in memory of thatday, called the channel Escape--to the sound itself we gave the name ofKing's, in the full confidence that all for whom the remembrance of skilland constancy and courage have a charm, will unite in thinking that thecareer of such a man should not be without a lasting and appropriatemonument!

February 13. 

It blew a violent gale the whole of this day from West-South-West, comingon quite unexpectedly, for neither the state nor appearance of theatmosphere gave us the least indication of its approach. Exposed on alee-shore, it may be imagined that we were by no means displeased to seeit as rapidly and inexplicably depart, as it had suddenly andmysteriously appeared. 

POINT CUNNINGHAM. 

February 14. 

Leaving this anchorage we found another in a bay on the mainland, 12miles South from Point Swan, and 11 North-West from a remarkable headlandnamed by Captain King, Point Cunningham, in honour of that distinguishedbotanist, whose zealous exertions have added so much to the Flora ofAustralia. I well remember when we were preparing to sail from Sydney, inMay 1839, the scientific veteran seemed to enter with the utmost interestinto all the details of the coming adventure. And even, though thenatural force of that frame which had so often set danger at defiance, while engaged in the ennobling pursuits to which his honourable careerhad been devoted, was too palpably failing the mind whose dictates it hadso long obeyed; the fire of the spirit that had burned throughout sobrightly, seemed to leap up in yet more glowing flame, ere quenchedforever by the ashes of the grave! alas! within the brief period of twomonths, the world had closed upon him for ever!

SUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR WATER. 

A point, fronting a small islet, almost joined to it at low-water, wasselected as a fitting spot for the commencement of our well-diggingoperations, which we hoped to bring to a more successful termination thanour former attempt at Point Swan. After sinking to a depth of eight feetour anticipations were fully justified, the water flowing in through thesides in great abundance. It was quite fresh, and in every way mostacceptable to us all; but tinged as it was with the red colour of thesurrounding soil, we could at once perceive that it was only surfacewater. As we watched it filling our neatly excavated well, we found nogreat difficulty in understanding why, in this continent, a native speaksof any very favoured district, as "Very fine country--much plentywater--fine country;" thus comprehending in the certain supply of thatone necessary of life, the chief, nay almost the sole condition essentialto a happy land. 

SKELETON POINT. 

We named this Skeleton Point from our finding here the remains of anative, placed in a semi-recumbent position under a wide spreading gumtree, enveloped, or more properly, shrouded, in the bark of the papyrus. All the bones were closely packed together, the larger being placedoutside, and the general mass surmounted by the head, resting on itsbase, the fleshless, eyeless skull grinning horribly over the right side. Some of the natives arrived shortly after we had discovered this curiousspecimen of their mode of sepulture; but although they entertain peculiaropinions upon the especial sanctity of the house appointed for allliving--a sanctity we certainly were not altogether justified indisregarding--they made no offer of remonstrance at the removal of themortal remains of their dead brother. Whether here, as in theneighbourhood of Fremantle, they regarded us as near kindred of their ownunder a new guise, and so perhaps might suppose that we took away the drybones in order to rebuild the frame of which they before formed thesupport, and to clothe the hideous nakedness of death with the whiteman's flesh; or whether, deeming us indeed profane violators of that lastresting-place of suffering humanity, which it seems an almost instinctivefeeling to regard with reverence, they left the office of retributioneither to the spirit of the departed, or the more potent boyl-yas--to befound upon the testimony of Miago in the wicked north--I know not;certain it is that under the superintendence of Mr. Bynoe the removal waseffected, and that the skeleton itself, presented by that officer toCaptain Grey, was by him bestowed upon the Royal College of Surgeons, inwhose museum it is now to be found. 

Among the ornithological specimens obtained here was one of the curlewtribe, greatly resembling an ibis, and remarkable for its size. Itmeasured from the extremity of the bill to the tip of the toe 27 1/2inches, and weighed 1 pound 14 1/2 ounces. The colour, with the exceptionof the belly and legs, which were of a dirty white slightly mottled, verymuch resembled that of the common English wild duck. 

KILEYS. 

One of the natives seen to-day had with him a kiley, so different inshape to any we had previously seen that I preserved a sketch of it. Allthe party wore their hair tied up behind, and each had suffered the lossof one of the front teeth in the upper jaw: and some had endured anextraordinary mutilation; apparently in exaggeration of an ancient Jewishrite. In general appearance they resembled the natives previously seen atPoint Swan. 

OUR PARTING LEGACY. 

They appeared to luxuriate in the water we had found, wondered at thesize of our well, and expressed the greatest admiration of our skill inthus procuring this needful article; and I do not doubt but that longafter every other recollection of our visit shall have passed away, thisbeneficial memorial of it will perpetuate the visit of H. M. S. Beagle, tothis part of the great continent of Australia. 

CHAPTER 1. 6. POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZROY RIVER. 

Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham. Move the Ship. Mosquitoes. Southern View of King's Sound. Singular vitreous Formation. Move to the south of Point Cunningham. Captain King's limit. Termination of Cliffy Range. Disaster Bay. An Exploring Party leave in the boats. The shore. A freshwater lake. Valentine Island. Native Fire and Food. A heavy squall. The wild Oat. Indications of a River. Point Torment. Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit. Limits of its growth. Another squall. Water nearly fresh alongside. The Fitzroy River. Tide Bore and dangerous position of the Yawl. Ascent of the Fitzroy. Appearance of the adjacent land. Return on foot. Perilous situation and providential escape. Survey the western shore. Return to the Ship. Sporting, Quail and Emus. Natives. Ship moved to Point Torment. 

February 21, 1838. 

We remained at this sheltered anchorage until the 21st, by which time thecoast, so far as Point Cunningham, had been carefully examined. We foundit everywhere indented with deep bays, in each of which good anchoragewas to be found. The water's edge was in almost every place fringed withthe closely twining mangrove trees, behind which the country graduallyrose to an average level of about 200 feet, being thickly covered withthe various sorts of Eucalypti, for which all the explored portions ofthis continent are more or less remarkable. 

In the afternoon of the 21st, we moved into a bay North-West of PointCunningham, and anchored in 8 fathoms (low-water) about a mile North-Westfrom that point; having passed over a bank of 5 or 6 fathoms, with 12 onits outer, and 10 on its inner side, and lying 2 1/4 miles north fromPoint Cunningham. 

MOSQUITOES. 

I spent the early part of this night on shore, a circumstance of whichthe tormenting mosquitoes took every possible advantage; finally drivingme from their territory with every indignity, and in a state of mindanything but placid. The poet doubtless spoke from experience when heasserted:

--there was never yet philosopherThat could endure the toothache patiently. 

And even could such a prodigy of patient endurance be found, I am sure itwould fail him when exposed to the ceaseless persecution of theseinexorable assailants. 

February 22. 

The greater part of to-day was spent in making a more minute examinationof the bay, the shoal discovered yesterday rendering a more carefulsearch necessary. From the summit of Point Cunningham, I had a fine viewof the opposite shore of the sound; very broken and rugged it appeared tobe. To the South-East and south I could see no land; a circumstance whichraised my hopes of finding in that direction the long and anxiouslyexpected river, which the geological formation of the country, and allthe recorded experience of discovery, alike warranted us in anticipating. The point upon which I stood was a steep and cliffy rock facing the sea, connected with the mainland by a low and narrow neck of land, but almostinsulated at high-water during the spring tides. A singular cliff, projecting on its South-East side, is called by Captain King, CarlisleHead; but we searched in vain for the fresh water, which thatdistinguished navigator speaks of, as having been found there by him in1819. 

SINGULAR VITREOUS FORMATION. 

We remarked here, certain vitreous formations, in all, except form, identical with those already described as having been seen at Point Swan. These were small balls lying loose on the sandy beach, at the bottom ofthe cliff; they were highly glazed upon the surface, hollow inside, andvarying in size from a musket, to a tennis ball. *

(*Footnote. Vide Mr. Darwin on "superficial ferrugineous beds" Geology ofVolcanic Islands page 143. )

February 23. 

We weighed early in the morning, and rounded Point Cunningham; anchoringagain at 10 o'clock A. M. , 8 miles north of it, in 7 fathoms (low-water);West by North, one mile from where we lay, a red cliffy head, called byCaptain King, in memory of the difficulties which ultimately compelledhim to leave this interesting coast, Foul Point, marks the limit of hissurvey of this part of the northern shore of Australia, and terminatesthe range of cliffs, * which, up to this point, forms nature's barrieragainst the sea. Beyond it, the coast assumes a low and treacherouscharacter, and subsides into a deep bay, called by Captain King, notwithout reason, Disaster Bay. 

(*Footnote. The cliffs at Foul Point and Point Cunningham unite thesandstone and argillaceous formation. )

From the masthead, from whence I hoped to get a wide view of the unknownwaters we were about to explore, I could just see Valentine Island, bearing South-South-East about 17 miles. Its lofty extremities alonebeing visible, it had the appearance of two islands. 

Here, then, a really most interesting--nay, a most exciting--portion ofthe duties of the survey were to commence in earnest; and it was reservedfor us to take up the thread of discovery reluctantly abandoned by ourenterprising and scientific predecessor, at the moment when the prize wasalmost within his grasp. 

EXPLORING PARTY IN BOATS. 

It was forthwith determined, that Captain Wickham and Mr. Fitzmauriceshould collect the necessary materials for completing the survey, andpreparing the chart of the bay in the immediate neighbourhood of theship; while to myself the whale boat and yawl were to be entrusted; norcan I describe with what delight, all minor annoyances forgotten, Iprepared to enter upon the exciting task of exploring waters unfurrowedby any preceding keel; and shores, on which the advancing step ofcivilization had not yet thrown the shadows of her advent, nor the voiceof that Christianity, which walks by her side through the uttermost partsof the earth, summoned the wilderness and the desert to hail theapproaching hour, in the fulness of which all the earth shall be blessed!

Soon after dark we were visited by a squall from the eastward, longer induration, and heavier than any we had before experienced. From ourexposed situation--no land intervening for 30 miles--it raised a gooddeal of sea: the wind remained fresh at the east during the greater partof the night. 

February 24. 

The morning broke, dark, gloomy, and threatening; but, as the dayadvanced, it gradually assumed its usual bright and brilliant character;and at seven A. M. We started, Mr. Helpman having the whaleboat, while Mr. Tarrant accompanied me in the yawl. We crossed Disaster Bay in four andfive fathoms, steering in the direction of Valentine Island, and inside along sandy spit, partly dry at low-water, and extending two-thirds of theway across. 

FRESHWATER LAKE. 

While waiting for the tide to rise, in order to cross this naturalbreakwater, we landed, and struggled for a good mile through a mixture ofdeep mud and sand, drifted, at the coastline, into hills of fromtwenty-five to thirty feet high, and bound together by a long coarsegrass; immediately beyond which we came upon a small lake of fresh water, where all the luxuriant growth of tropical vegetation was starting intolife, and presenting an almost miraculous contrast to the barrensterility, that stamped an aspect of changeless desolation upon the restof this inhospitable shore. Indeed, so far as our experience extended, upon the coasts, and within the interior of this in many respectsextraordinary continent, the want of water appears to be the chiefdrawback to the fertility otherwise to be anticipated from itsgeographical position: at the same time, it is quite impossible to blindoneself to the fact, that further researches on the one hand, and theapplication of the great discoveries in hydraulics, of which recent yearshave been so fruitful, on the other, may, and probably will, spread thevernal bloom of cultivation over wastes, now condemned to prolonged andarbitrary periods of drought. 

This spot, which long arrested my attention, and upon which I gazed withthe selfish feeling of delight inspired by the thought that thereon neverbefore had rested the curious eye of any restless and indefatigablewanderer from the west, is distant about 500 yards North-North-West, froma solitary patch of low red cliffs, the first of this formation thatpresent themselves south of Foul Point. 

VALENTINE ISLAND. 

Extensive flats fronting the coast to the southward, almost connect it atlow-water with Valentine Island, which we reached at two P. M. , just onthe top of high-water, and shortly afterwards grounded the boats in asmall bay to the westward. The greatest extent of Valentine Island isthree-quarters of a mile in an East by South direction: either extremityis formed by high cliffs, a low valley intervening. 

NATIVE FIRE AND FOOD. 

On landing we found a fire still burning, near the beach, and beside it abundle of the bark of the papyrus tree, in which were carefully packed aquantity of ground nuts, they were each about three-quarters of an inchlong, and in shape not unlike a kidney potato;* it seemed clear, judgingfrom the native value of the commodities thus rashly abandoned, that ourarrival had rather taken by surprise these untutored children of thewilderness: we saw nothing of them till we had reembarked, when (four orfive only in number) they returned to the beach; and we could perceivethat our foot tracks, upon which they appeared to hold an animateddebate, had, to say the least, mightily puzzled them. I ascended thehighest point of the island in the afternoon, and from thence looked overseveral miles of densely wooded country, but offering no appearance ofland to the eastward of South-South-East. We gazed with indescribabledelight upon the wide expanse of open water which lay before us in thatdirection, and already anticipated the discovery of some vast inlet, terminating in the mouth of a magnificent river, upon the exploration ofwhich our imagination was already busily engaged; nor for the moment didthe thought, or rather the recollection of the fact, that Captain Kinghad seen land (by refraction) in that quarter, serve to damp our ardour. When it made its way, and perseveringly insisted upon engaging a certainshare of my attention, its presence only added an additional motive to myprevious determination to set the question at rest by personalexamination, and in the interim, to look immediately before sunrise (whenthe atmosphere within the tropics is always clear) for the very sight Ishould have been most disappointed to have beheld. During the afternoon Ishot over the island, and enjoyed some very fair sport; especially withthe pheasant-cuckoo, ** and quail, large and small, which were numerous:several birds not unlike the so-called crow of the Swan River colonistswere seen. We found no fresh water, but in addition to the abundance ofgame, the presence of the natives, proves the island to be not whollydestitute of this first requisite of life. The thermometer at 3 P. M. , was100 degrees in the shade, while the unnatural calm that reigned aroundgave the experienced seaman plain warning of some disturbance at hand. 

(*Footnote. This esculent appeared to resemble the warran, or yam, usedfor food by the native inhabitants north of Swan River. )

(**Footnote. Centropus phasianellus. Gould. )

A HEAVY SQUALL. 

Just before sunset these anxious anticipations proved correct: a mass ofbroad edged white clouds rose rapidly in the east, and spread over thetill then unbroken blue of the vast vault above; among or rather behindthe interstices of these clouds, the lightning quivered and flashedfearfully and fitfully, gleaming with a terrible distinctness in thefading light of expiring day! Anon, darker and more ominous cloudssucceeded to the first, and quickly uniting seemed to span all heavenwith a frowning arch, that came rapidly onwards upon the wings of thenow-rising tempest. It was some time ere its approach either attractedthe attention or disturbed the boisterous mirth of the boats' crews, who, with the enviable philosophy of their class, were gaily laughing over theincidents of the day. I had just secured a good latitude by Canopus, whenthe squall burst upon us from East-South-East, it blew very hard indeedfor about an hour, veering round to, and terminating at, North-East, andthen all was calm again; partaking of the general characteristics ofprevious visitations of the same kind, to which we have been subjectsince our arrival upon this coast, it lasted for a much less time, ashitherto their average duration had been about three hours. It broughtthe thermometer down to 80 degrees. All was quiet by midnight, andundisturbed by the past we finished the night in peace. Daybreak found usat the eastern end of the island, from which point we observed a lowstrip of land bearing east about 16 miles distant; a fact whichre-establishes Captain King's authority, against Mr. Earle'scontradiction. * This confirmation of that distinguished and ablenavigator, in some degree reconciled me to the unpropitious discovery, that the shores of this great sheet of water were visibly beginning tocontract. 

(*Footnote. Vide Earle's Eastern Seas page 451. )

WILD OAT. 

During our walk we noticed the wild oat in great abundance. This valuablespecies of corn is then indigenous to this part of the world. Ere long, perhaps, the time will arrive when upon the coast, where now in nativenegligence it springs and dies, it may spread the white and glisteninggarment of cultivation--testify the existence--and promote the comfort ofsocial life. The same seed was found near Hanover Bay, by LieutenantsGrey and Lushington, and throve exceedingly well in the soft andluxurious climate of the ever-verdant Mauritius. Leaving some presents ina conspicuous situation for the present rightful possessors of theisland, whose temporary shelter we had obtained, we hastened back to theboats, and stood away to the eastward for the low land seen from theisland, and crossed various narrow sandy ridges, nearly dry at low-water, and generally trending North and South, showing the direction of thestream by which they were formed, and at distances of 5, 7, 9, and 12miles, in an East by South direction from Valentine Island; the soundingsbetween them averaged from 7 to 9 fathoms. A favouring breeze from thesouth helped us halfway across to the point, from whence I hoped andbelieved we should hereafter date the first great event of the voyage;and then dying away, compelled us to take to the oars, with thethermometer at 110 degrees in the shade. 

INDICATIONS OF A RIVER. 

As we proceeded, several circumstances concurred to satisfy me that wewere at length really approaching the mouth of a considerable river;large trees drifted past us with the ebbing tide, while each cast of thelead proved that we were gradually, though nearing the land, deepeningthe water. 

POINT TORMENT. 

Fortune too seemed now resolved to favour us, the deep channel mostopportunely lying along the eastern shore, which we reached soon afternoon, and landed on the only beach of sand hereabouts left uncovered athigh-water. Here, for better security against the squalls we hadexperienced for the last two nights, we hauled up the boats. A name wassoon found for our new territory, upon which we with rueful unanimityconferred that of Point Torment, from the incessant and vindictiveattacks of swarms of mosquitoes, by whom it had evidently been resolvedto give the newcomers a warm welcome. The greater part of Point Tormentis deeply intersected with deep narrow creeks, and is almost entirelyflooded at high-water: it extends low and swampy for nearly three milesin breadth, and then rises gradually, the slope being well wooded withthe white Eucalypti. Here also I remarked the gouty-stem tree, figured byCaptain Grey, and described by Captain King, as of the Nat. Ord. Capparides, and thought to be a Capparis; it also bears a resemblance tothe Adansonia described in Captain Tuckey's Congo. This was but a smallspecimen in fruit, of which the following brief description may convey atolerably clear idea. In shape it something resembled the coconut, with agourd-like outside, of a brown and yellow colour. Its length was fiveinches, and diameter three. The shell was exceedingly thin, and whenopened it was found to be full of seeds, imbedded in a whitish pulp, andof a not ungrateful taste. 

This place, latitude 17 degrees 5 minutes South, may be considered thelimit of its growth in that direction, and the Victoria River, of which Ishall have occasion to speak hereafter, in latitude 14 degrees 55minutes, the northern boundary of its indigenous empire. 

We saw no traces of inhabitants, not even the thin rising smoke, which sooften greeted our eyes near the coast we had recently surveyed. I climbedthe highest tree we could find, and from the elevation it afforded lookedsouthwards over a wide prospect of nothing but mangroves and mudbanks;still interesting from the fact that upon them the wondering gaze of thecurious European had never yet been bent!

THE MOSQUITOES. 

Procuring the necessary observations completed the duties of the day;but, alas! the sleep all could have enjoyed so much after our work, wasrendered impossible by the swarms of mosquitoes, who at sunset relievedthose of their tribe upon whom the day duty had devolved, and commenced amost unsparing attack upon us: all devices to escape them were tried invain, and some of the men were really half mad with the insufferableannoyance: at last, about eight o'clock, when all patience seemedexhausted, a welcome peal of thunder, and bright flashes of lightningannounced the expected and much desired squall. It served to blow awaysome of our persecutors; but our rest was of very short duration, and Iwas at length compelled to order the people to take to the boats, fairlydriven from the shore by our diminutive but invincible assailants. Thetide set past the boats at the rate of four knots per hour, and it fell33 feet, being 6 feet more than we had as yet found it. The only rockseen here was a block, visible at low-water; it was a conglomerate, andthe most southerly formation of the kind we met with. 

THE FLOOD-TIDE. 

February 26. 

The daylight found us all anxiously speculating upon the probable resultsto be accomplished before the darkness once more closed in upon us, butthe morning being perfectly calm, we were compelled to wait till theflood-tide made: this soon took us past an island four miles from theeastern shore, seen the evening before, and which now proved to be anarrow strip, covered with the never-failing mangrove; and having twosmaller islands, nearly identical in character, lying two miles south ofit. We passed them at noon, and saw the land to the westward, ourposition being then 20 miles south of Point Torment. The water hadshoaled in several places during the passage to less than a fathom(low-water); but the tide hemmed in by the contraction of this greatinlet (the left shore of which gradually trending to the eastward, hereapproached to within six miles of the opposite coast) still hurried us onwith a rapidity agreeable enough but not quite free from danger, towardswhat appeared to be the mouth of a large river. If our exultation hadbeen great in the morning, when such success as this was only halfanticipated, what was it at that exciting moment when the eventful hourwhich should give us the triumph of such a discovery as that we nowfairly anticipated, seemed within our grasp? I cannot answer for others, but for myself I had never known a sensation of greater delight. Doubt, disappointment, difficulty, and danger; all, all were unheeded orforgotten in the one proud thought that for us was reserved an enterprisethe ultimate results of which might in some future year affect theinterests of a great portion of the world! Presently, as if to recall totheir routine of duty, these upward-springing thoughts, the boats werefound to be rapidly carried by the stream towards an extensive flat, which appeared to extend right across the opening towards which all eyeshad been turned with so much eagerness, and over which the tide wasboiling and whirling with great force. To attempt to cross would havebeen madness; there was nothing, therefore, to be done but patientlyawait the rising of the tide. 

ESCAPE POINT. 

The nearest land, a mangrove point bearing South-South-East one mile, weafterwards named Escape Point, in grateful memory of the providentialescapes we experienced in its vicinity. Where the boats were anchored wehad nearly five feet at low-water, and the tide ran past them at the rateof five miles an hour. As soon as possible we again started, in a southby west direction, and proceeded for about five miles, when the boatswere anchored, near the western shore, which we proposed to visit atlow-water. From the yawl's masthead I traced the shore all round, exceptto the south-east, where I could see an opening about a mile wide. Thewestern land was slightly elevated, perhaps to 70 feet, and clothed withrather large trees, while to the eastward the land appeared very low. Asthe tide ebbed, we found, to our disappointment and mortification, thatthe flat over which we reckoned to secure a passage to the mainland, never became quite dry (the tide here falling only 18 feet) while fromits soft and treacherous character, it was impossible to cross it onfoot. 

MOUTH OF THE FITZROY. 

All doubt about our being in the mouth of a river was put an end to byfinding that, during the last of the ebb, the water was nearly fresh. This discovery was hailed by us all with a pleasure which persons onlyfamiliar with the well-watered and verdant fields of England cannot fullycomprehend. 

Our success afforded me a welcome opportunity of testifying to CaptainFitzroy my grateful recollection of his personal kindness; and Idetermined, with Captain Wickham's permission, to call this new riverafter his name, thus perpetuating, by the most durable of monuments, theservices and the career of one, in whom, with rare and enviableprodigality, are mingled the daring of the seaman, the accomplishments ofthe student, and the graces of the Christian--of whose calm fortitude inthe hour of impending danger, or whose habitual carefulness for theinterests of all under his command, if I forbear to speak, I am silentbecause, while I recognise their existence, and perceive how much theyexalt the character they adorn, I feel, too, that they have elevated itabove, either the need, or the reach of any eulogy within my power tooffer!

I felt pretty confident that the first rush of the tide upon its refluxwould be violent, and had made preparation accordingly. In the firstwatch these anticipations were realized, and I was roused from amomentary doze by a loud roaring, which I at once recognized to be thevoice of thunder, heralding the advancing tide. 

TIDE-BORE. 

The night was pitch dark, and though I instinctively turned my eyestowards the offing, I could see nothing, but as each anxious momentpassed away, the fearful voice of the waters sounded nearer and nearer, and within less time than I have occupied in the narration, the fullforce of the rush of tide coming on like a wall, several feet high, andbringing our anchor away with it, was upon us. The cable thus slackened, the yawl sheered, and was thrown violently upon her broadside in themidst of it, and had it not been for the shores lashed to each mast, shemust inevitably have capsized. The whaleboat fared better; being lightershe was the sooner afloat, and besides her buoyant bow was the betterable to receive and resist the shock. When the tide slacked we returnedto the deep water off Escape Point, and spent the remainder of the nightin quiet, I would fain hope, so far as most of us were concerned, notwithout a thankful remembrance of Him, whose merciful providence had beenso recently manifested in our behalf!

ASCENT OF THE FITZROY. 

February 27. 

Leaving Mr. Tarrant in charge of the yawl, I proceeded with Mr. Helpmanto trace the river, immediately after daylight. Against the last of theebb tide, and with the thermometer at 80 degrees, we contrived to reach aspot two miles beyond Point Escape before noon. From Point Escapeupwards, there appeared to be, at low-water, no regular channel; the bedof the river assumed the aspect of an extensive flat of mud, intersectedwith small rivulets or streams that served to drain it. No signs of humanhabitation were seen along its banks, which divided by numerous smallcreeks, and thickly fringed with the unfailing mangrove, stretched awayin level and drear monotony, only broken towards the west by land ofinconsiderable elevation. The circling flight of the ever-wary curlew, and the shrill cry of the plover, now first disturbed in their accustomedterritory, alone vouched for the presence of animal life in that vastsolitude, the effect of which they heightened, rather than removed!

RETURN ON FOOT. 

Finding the further ascent almost if not altogether impracticable at thepresent state of the tide, I ordered the boat back to Point Escape, andlanded, accompanied by Mr. Helpman, and a seaman, intending to return onfoot. 

PERILOUS SITUATION. 

The shore was a soft mud, in which the small mangroves had found a mostcongenial soil: while our journey every now and then, arrested by theintervention of one or other of the numerous little creeks of which Ihave before spoken, promised to prove a more fatiguing, if not morehazardous affair, than we had originally contemplated. 

We managed at first, by ascending their banks for a short distance fromthe river, to jump across these opposing creeks, but as the tide rose, they filled and widened in proportion, and each moment increased thedifficulties of our position, now heightened by the untoward discoverythat William Ask, the seaman who had accompanied us, was unable to swim!

Time and tide, however, wait for no man, and the rapidly rising watershad flooded the whole of the low land which formed this bank of theriver, so that we were compelled to wade, feeling with a stick for theedges of the creeks in our route, over each of which Mr. Helpman andmyself had alternately to swim in order to pass the arms undamaged; andthen Ask, making the best jump that he could muster for the occasion, wasdragged ashore on the opposite side. At length we reached a creek, thebreadth of which rendered this mode of proceeding no longer practicable, and we were compelled to stop, being fortunately very near the pointwhere I had directed the boat to meet us. Our situation was now anythingbut pleasant, the water being already above our knees, and the tidehaving still several hours to rise; while the mangrove trees by which wewere surrounded, were all too slender to afford the least support. 

In this state of affairs, leaving Mr. Helpman with Ask--who had secured apiece of drift timber as a last resource--I made my way to the edge ofthe shore, only to find that the boat, unable to stem the current, hadanchored some distance above us! Mr. Helpman and myself might havereached her by swimming; but even could I have easily reconciled myselfto part with our arms and instruments, at any rate to abandon poor Ask inthe dilemma into which I had brought him was not to be thought of. Byrepeated discharges of my gun I at last succeeded in attracting theattention of the boat's crew, who made an immediate and desperate effortto come to our assistance: while their strength lasted they justcontrived to hold their own against the tide, then, drifting astern, wereagain compelled to anchor. The attempt was renewed, when an equallydesperate struggle was followed by just as fruitless a result: the forceof the stream was clearly more than they could overcome, and anintervening bank precluded any attempt to creep up to us along the shore. 

Most anxiously did I watch the water as it changed its upward levelalmost with the rapidity of an inch a minute, being in doubt whether itwould rise above our heads, ere it afforded a sufficient depth to carrythe boat over the intervening bank, and bring us the only assistance thatwould afford a chance for our lives. I breathed a short, but most ferventprayer to Him, in whose hands are the issues of life and death, andturned back to cheer my comrades with the chance of rescue. 

AND PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE. 

Nor shall I ever forget the expression of thankfulness and gratitudewhich lit up the face of poor Ask, as the whispers of hope were confirmedby the welcome advance of the whaleboat's bows through the almostsubmerged mangroves, just as the water had topped our shoulders; and, therefore, barely in time to confirm upon this locality its former titleof Point Escape!

We now pulled down to this last-named point, and waited for the tide tofall, in order to obtain the necessary observations for determining itsposition: those for latitude, taken in the early part of the night, gavea result (worked on the spot) of 17 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South; beingan increase in latitude of 35 miles from the present position of theBeagle. 

Having now but two days' provisions remaining, I determined on completingthe survey of the western shore, south of Valentine Island, and then toreturn and report our discovery, knowing that Captain Wickham would doall in his power to prosecute it to the utmost. 

RETURN TO THE SHIP. 

March 3. 

These plans were accordingly carried into effect, and we returned to theship on the morning of the 3rd of March. We found all well on board, withthe exception of poor Mr. Usborne, whom we were delighted to see so farrecovered. One sentiment of satisfaction pervaded the whole ship'scompany, when informed of our success; and, as I had anticipated, CaptainWickham at once determined upon further exploring our new discovery inlighter boats, first placing the ship as near the mouth of it aspracticable. During the squall, on the first night of our absence, theship parted her cable, and was nearly on the rocks. 

Our sportsmen had been actively and successfully employed during ourabsence, having shot a great number of quail; they had seen two emus, andMessrs. Bynoe and Dring had obtained severalspecimens of rare birds, all of which are now figured by Mr. Gould in hisBirds of Australia. A few natives had also been seen, but they were toowary to permit any intercourse with them. 

March 4. 

This was Sunday, and no imperative necessity hindered our making it a dayof rest. Various necessary observations occupied the greater part ofMonday; and, on the day following, the ship was moved, under my guidance, to an anchorage, in 5 fathoms (low-water) 2 1/2 miles west from PointTorment. 

CHAPTER 1. 7. THE FITZROY RIVER TO PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, AND RETURN TOSWAN RIVER. 

Examination of the Fitzroy River. Excursion into the interior. Alarm of the Natives. Ascent of the River. Sufferings from Mosquitoes. Red Sandstone. Natives again surprised. Appearance of the Country. Impediments in the River. Return of the boats. An Alligator. Stokes' Bay. Narrow escape of an Officer. Change of Landscape. Pheasant-Cuckoos. A new Vine. Compass Hill. Port Usborne. Explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. Cone Bay. Native Fires. Whirlpool Channel. Group of Islands. Sterile aspect of the Coast. Visited by a Native. Bathurst Island. Native Hut and Raft. Return to Port Usborne. Native Spears. Cascade Bay. Result of Explorations in King's Sound. Interview with Natives. Coral Reefs. Discover Beagle Bank. Arrival at Port George the Fourth. Examination of Collier Bay in the boats. Brecknock Harbour. The Slate Islands. Freshwater Cove. An Eagle shot. Its singular nest. Rock Kangaroos. A Conflagration. Sandstone Ridges. Doubtful Bay. Mouth of the Glenelg. Remarkable Tree. Fertile Country near Brecknock Harbour. Return to the Ship. Meet with Lieutenant Grey. His sufferings and discoveries. Visit the Encampment. Timor Ponies. Embarkation of Lieutenant Grey's Party. Sail from Port George the Fourth. Remarks on position of Tryal Rock. Anecdotes of Miago. Arrival at Swan River. Directions for entering Owen's Anchorage. 

March 7, 1838. 

We spent the morning in making the necessary preparations, and in theafternoon started to resume our examination of Fitzroy River. CaptainWickham and Lieutenant Eden in the gig, and myself, accompanied by Mr. Tarrant, in one of the whaleboats; we reached the mangrove isles atsunset, and spent the night between them and the eastern shore. On the8th the tide suited us but badly, and we were only able to proceed aboutfour miles beyond Escape Point, where we secured the boats in a creek outof the influence of the tide. We found much less water off Escape Pointthan on our former visit. 

EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. 

In the evening we made an excursion into the interior. It was one vastunbroken level, covered with a strong and wiry grass, intersected withnumerous watercourses, which the tide filled at high-water, there werealso indications of more important, but less regular, visits from thesea. Here and there a solitary tree assisted us in estimating thedistance we had walked. We saw two emus in this plain, which appearedalso a favourite resort of quail and a bronze-winged pigeon. We could notget within shot of the wary emus, but the quail and pigeons afforded usgood sport, notwithstanding the ceaseless attacks of the mosquitoes, which swarmed in the long grass, and defied anything less impenetrablethan Mackintosh leggings, encumbrances not desirable for a pedestrianwith the thermometer at 87 degrees, particularly when worn over a pair ofFlushing trousers. Thus defended, I could, in some degree, defy thesetormenting assailants, and at night, under the additional securityafforded by a large painted coat, contrived to secure two or three hoursof unbroken rest--a luxury few of my companions enjoyed. 

It was with much disappointment that we found the channel occupied, atlow-water, by a mere rivulet, draining the extensive mud flats then leftuncovered. Hope, however, though somewhat sobered, was not altogetherdestroyed by this malapropos discovery, and we still looked forward withan interest but little abated, to the results of a complete survey of ournew discovery. 

March 9. 

We moved on when the tide served, keeping close to the eastern bank ofthe river, where there appeared at low-water, the largest stream, thenbarely two feet deep. Following the sinuosity of the shore, our generaldirection was south, and after we had thus proceeded two miles, we foundthe width of the river suddenly contract from three miles to one. Thebanks were low and covered with a coarse grass. 

NATIVES. 

Here we saw three natives, stretching their long spare bodies over thebank, watching the leading boat with the fixed gaze of apparent terrorand anxiety. Sso rivetted was their attention, that they allowed my boatto approach unnoticed within a very short distance of them; but when theysuddenly caught sight of it, they gave a yell of mingled astonishment andalarm, and flinging themselves back into the long grass, were almostinstantly out of sight. They were evidently greatly alarmed, and asMiago, whose presence might have given them confidence, was not with us, it seemed hopeless to attempt any communication with them, much as weshould have liked to convince them, that these strange white creatureswere of a race of beings formed like themselves, though even of ourexistence they could have had no previous idea. 

EXPLORATION OF THE RIVER. 

Six miles from our last night's bivouac, still keeping our southerlydirection, brought us to some low, grassy islets, extending almost acrossthe river, and leaving only confined and shallow channels; through one ofwhich we had, at half tide, some difficulty in finding a passage for theboats. The river now widened out a little, and we found the deep waternear the western bank, the appearance of the country remaining unaltered. We landed to pass the night at a rocky point on the east side of theriver, one mile south from the most western islet of the chain justdescribed as almost preventing our ascent. The depth of the river at thispoint was about twelve feet at low-water; and its breadth some four orfive hundred yards. We found the water fresh at all times of tide, whichhere rose only eight feet; being ten feet less than its greatest riseeight miles nearer the mouth, where the time of high-water at the fulland change of the moon occurs at 4 hours 10 minutes P. M. 

This was the first rock formation we had noticed since leaving PointTorment, a distance of nearly thirty miles; it was a very fine-grainedred sandstone, darkened and rendered heavy by the presence of ferruginousparticles. The appearance of the country now began to improve, theeastern bank was thickly wooded, and a mile higher up, the westernappeared clothed in verdure. I noticed here the same kind of tree, seenfor the first time behind our last night's bivouac; it was small andshrubby-looking, with a rough bark, not unlike that of the common elm, and its little pointed leaf, of a deep, dark green, contrasted with theevergreen Eucalypti by which it was surrounded, reminded me of thevarious tints that give the charm of constant variety to our Englishwoods, and lend to each succeeding season a distinctive andcharacteristic beauty. *

(*Footnote. The diameter of the largest tree of this kind was only eightinches: it was exceedingly hard, and of a very dark red colour, except awhite rim about an inch in thickness. This wood worked and looked thebest, in a table I had made out of various specimens of woods collectedon the North-west coast of Australia. )

SUFFERINGS FROM MOSQUITOES. 

I must be pardoned for again alluding to our old enemies the mosquitoes, but the reception they gave us this night is too deeply engraven on mymemory to be ever quite forgotten. 

NIGHT OF TORMENT. 

They swarmed around us, and by the light of the fire, the blanket bags inwhich the men sought to protect themselves, seemed literally black withtheir crawling and stinging persecutors. Woe to the unhappy wretch whohad left unclosed the least hole in his bag; the persevering mosquitoessurely found it out, and as surely drove the luckless occupant out of hisretreat. I noticed one man dressed as if in the frozen north, hold hisbag over the fire till it was quite full of smoke, and then get into it, a companion securing the mouth over his head at the apparent risk ofsuffocation; he obtained three hours of what he gratefully termedcomfortable sleep, but when he emerged from his shelter, where he hadbeen stewed up with the thermometer at 87 degrees, his appearance may beeasily imagined. 

Our hands were in constant requisition to keep the tormentors from theface and ears, which often received a hearty whack, aimed in thefruitless irritation of the moment at our assailants, and which sometimesended in adding headache to the list of annoyances. Strike as you please, the ceaseless humming of the invincible mosquito close to your ear seemsto mock his unhappy victim!

One poor fellow, whose patience was quite exhausted, fairly jumped intothe river to escape further persecution. 

We had the wind from South-West to South-East during the afternoon, butat 6 P. M. It veered round to North-North-West. 

While getting the observations for time and latitude, some of us werecompelled to remain quiet, an opportunity our tiny assailants instantlyavailed themselves of, covering our faces and hands. To listen quietly totheir hum, and feel their long stings darting into your flesh, might putthe patience of Job himself to a severe trial. 

ASCENT OF THE FITZROY. 

March 10. 

After such a night of torment, we hailed the morning with delight; andhaving partaken of an early breakfast, proceeded on our interestingdiscovery. The first reach took us more than a mile, in a South-West byWest direction, the width of it being towards the latter end nearly aquarter of a mile; the deepest water (from seven to eight feet) was onthe west side, and a dry flat of sand fronted the other for somedistance. The course of the river now changed, first to South-East thenround to West-North-West enclosing a mile of ground. We had greatdifficulty, owing to the water being very shoal, in getting our boatsthrough the next reach, which was rather more than a mile in a West bySouth direction. After threading our way through three more reaches, trending South-South-West--South-West, and South and from half to onemile in length, the shades of evening and fatigue attending a long andunsatisfactory day's work, warned us that it was time to seek aresting-place for the night, although we had but little hopes ofobtaining any. We had made good but six miles during the day in a generalSouth-West by West direction. Our progress being delayed by thedifficulty we had in getting the boats over the shallows, and by acurrent running at the rate of from one to two miles an hour. 

The depth of the river varied during the day from one to fourteen feet, and its width from three to five hundred yards. In the deep reaches werethe wrecks of large trees, rearing their decayed heads, in evidence ofthe resistless fury of the torrent that had torn them from their roots, during some vast inundation, traces of which still remain on the banks, many feet above the present level of the river. 

The general aspect of the country had improved, and the eastern bankreached an elevation of 20 feet; it was covered with long, green grass, and thickly wooded with a luxuriant growth of the white eucalyptus, whilethe almost total absence of every appearance of animal life, impressed anair of solemn tranquillity upon the whole scene. Perhaps it was fromthere being little to admire in the surrounding scenery that we were somuch struck with the beauty of the western sky, as its gilded cloudsmarked the departure of the great ruler of the day. It was scarcelypossible to behold a more splendid sunset; but with us, after anothersleepless night, his rise, as he tinged the eastern sky, was hailed witheven greater delight. 

March 11. 

At daylight I climbed the highest tree I could find on the eastern bankof the river, in order to get a peep at the surrounding country. Theprospect, however, was but limited. The landscape presented to my view, was an almost uninterrupted level; open woodlands, with here and there afew grassy spots, were its prevailing features. I could see nothing ofthe river itself beyond the reach in which the boats were lying; itsupper extremity bore South by West and was about half a mile from ourhalting place. I made a discovery in climbing this tree, which I hoped tomake available in our farther ascent of the Fitzroy, should we be sofortunate as to accomplish its further exploration, or in any similarcircumstances during our examination of these untrodden wilds. It wasthis, and I mention it, as the hint may be useful to others: I found ourenemies the mosquitoes did not resort to the higher portions of the tree, and that by climbing some thirty feet from the ground, a night's repose, or at least a night undisturbed by their attacks might be obtained. 

Hastening back to the boats, we pushed on, but were some time getting tothe end of the reach, the shallowness of the water rendering our advancedifficult and tedious; entering at length the next, which trendedSouth-West for about half a mile, the river gradually widened out untilit attained a breadth of about half that space. An extensive flat of sandfronted the eastern bank, which was very low, and though now dry, boreundoubted marks of being not unfrequently visited by floods. The westernbank of the next reach was low and broken, evidently forming a group oflow grassy islands when the river is in a higher state. 

Some yellow sandstone cliffs, from ten to sixteen feet in height, formedthe opposite bank of this reach, which extended barely a quarter of amile, in from a South by East to a South by West direction; and varied inwidth from one to two hundred yards. We now entered a lake-like reach ofthe river, trending south for a mile and a quarter, having a breadth ofabout a hundred yards, and a depth in many places of twelve feet; beingtwice that which we had usually found in any of the lower reaches, withscarcely any stream. Soon after entering this remarkable sheet of water, we noticed a rock formation in its western banks; this we found to be acoarse-grained red sandstone, with fragments of quartz, and extended fornearly a quarter of a mile along the edge of the water. Over many partsof it was a coating of a dark and metallic appearance, about three inchesthick; and the surface in places presented a glazed or smeltedappearance. Mr. Darwin, in his work upon volcanic islands, page 143, alludes to this formation, under the head of "Superficial ferruginousbeds, " and thus concludes his observations: "The origin of thesesuperficial beds, though sufficiently obscure, seems to be due toalluvial action on detritus abounding with iron. "

As we proceeded along this canal, for such was the appearance of thereach we were now ascending, we surprised a small party of natives. Theywere at the water's edge, beneath a high mound of loose white sand, overwhich the children were some time in making their escape, struggling andscreaming with anxiety and fear, as they half buried themselves beneathits treacherous surface; and sometimes, after almost gaining the summit, sliding back again to the base. All parental care seemed for the momentlost in the overwhelming sense of present danger, caused by the strangeand unknown spectacle thus suddenly presented to the gaze of these poorsavages. Our white faces, curious garments, moving boats, the regularmotions and unaccustomed sounds of our heavy oars, must indeed havefilled them with amazement. I have since frequently remarked, that ouroars created more wonder, or alarm, among the various tribes who firstlearnt through us the existence of their white brethren, than almost anyother instrument of which they could at all understand the use; perhaps, as they propel their frail rafts with a spear, they jumped to theconclusion, that our oars were also immense spears, which, being theirchief weapons, must have given us a formidable appearance. We noticed, among the trees on the banks of this natural canal, two varieties of thepalm; both kinds had been observed by Mr. Brown in the Gulf ofCarpentaria, during Captain Flinders' voyage. 

At the end of this reach, which extended for a mile and a half in aSouth-East by South direction, the river was scarcely 50 yards wide, andthe depth had decreased from 12 to 6 feet; the current, scarcelyperceptible in the deep water, now ran with a velocity of from one to twomiles per hour. Here, therefore, the Fitzroy may be said to assume allthe more distinctive features of an Australian river: deep reaches, connected by shallows, and probably forming, during the droughts whichcharacterize Australia, an unlinked chain of ponds or lagoons; and inplaces, leaving no other indication of its former existence than thewater-worn banks and deep holes, thirsty and desolate as a desert plain. At this point, the river divided into two branches, one having anEast-South-East, and the other a South-South-East direction. Anxious todetermine, which, as the larger, best deserved our exploration, we landedat a high grassy point on the west bank. From the top of the highest treein the neighbourhood, I commanded an extensive view of the wide andfar-spread landscape then first submitted to the scrutiny of a European. Varied and undefined are the thoughts called forth at such a moment; thepast, the present, and the future, at once occupy, and almost confoundthe imagination. New feelings accompany new perceptions; and gazing forthe first time upon a vast and unknown land, the mind, restless andactive, as the roving life by which it is informed, expands for thereception of the crowding fancies, called into life as by the wand of themagician. 

After yielding for a while to the influence of the scene, I was glad toperceive the greater magnitude of the southerly branch of the river, which offered the most direct line into the interior. I could trace eachstream for nearly three miles, but that which trended to the east was amere rivulet. Both flowed through a perfectly level country. Seven mileswas about as far as the eye could reach over this wearisome-lookinglevel. To the westward the country was open; the trees were small, and inclumps, with green grassy patches between; but in other directions, itwas densely wooded, and on the eastern bank the trees were large. In thebranches of the one I ascended, rushes, deposited by the current, werefound 20 feet above the present level of the stream. This part of thecountry is therefore sometimes visited by heavy floods; they do not, however, seem to depend immediately upon the quantity of rain, for whilethe whole face of the landscape indicated large and recent supplies, theriver appeared little, if at all, affected by them. 

Having determined to follow the larger branch of the Fitzroy, wecontinued on our course, and found that beyond this point the river againwidened to nearly 200 yards; but that a chain of small islets, extendingfrom bank to bank, nearly stopped our proceeding further. This obstaclewas, however, overcome after some difficulty; and still proceedingupwards another mile, we came to a narrow rapid and shallow reach, whichbrought us into another still and deep, about 100 yards wide, and boundedby high grassy banks. Through this we pursued our way right merrily, indulging in the golden anticipation that the Fitzroy would yet conveyour boats some distance into the interior of that vast and unknowncontinent, with the present condition and future destiny of which ourthoughts were so often busy. 

IMPEDIMENTS IN THE RIVER. 

Scarcely, however, had we made good another mile, when we found ourselvesentangled among a cluster of small islets, and sunken trees, which almostwholly choked up the channel. The river thus pent up, ran through thesmall openings in this barrier with great velocity; while above, it hadagain assumed the deep still character which I have before had occasionto describe. 

We had partly overcome this impediment, when Captain Wickham decided upongiving up the attempt, and ordered the boats to return, considering theevident risks too great to justify further perseverance. We thereforegave up the exploration of the Fitzroy, in latitude 17 degrees 44 minutesSouth, longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes East, having traced its coursefor 22 miles in a general South-South-West direction, and havingpenetrated 90 miles from the coastline, towards the centre of Australia, from which we were still distant 600 miles. My view from the treetopextended about four miles beyond the furthest point we had reached on theriver, it had been our good fortune to add to the geography of Australia. Its banks here were 20 feet high, and covered with grass; partiallybroken or washed down, they disclosed to view a rich alluvial soil, nearly two feet deep. 

The trees we found most common during our expedition into this portion ofthe new lands of Australia, consisted chiefly of two species of palm, andthree of the eucalypti, stunted banksia, acacia, and the singular treebefore mentioned. The birds we saw were wholly those belonging to theland, and were chiefly black and white cockatoos, and a variety offinches. We neither saw nor caught any fish, and the absence of waterfowlled us to suppose they were scarce. 

RETURN OF THE BOATS. 

All the excitement and interest we had enjoyed in exploring the Fitzroythus far, now left us, and our return was comparatively tedious andmonotonous work. 

March 12. 

We, however, managed to reach our last night's bivouac by dark; andtowards the close of the next day we got as far down as the outer grassyislet in the entrance of the river. The night was stormy, but the windand rain together kept away the mosquitoes, and enabled us to obtain alittle most welcome rest. This change in the weather was sudden. Hithertowe had been singularly fortunate, each succeeding night, and returningmorn being, in cleanness and beauty, only a repetition of itspredecessor. 

March 13. 

The morning was again fine, and the bright sky was not disfigured by theleast trace of the dark clouds that had so lately overspread it. The tidefortunately favoured our making an early start. On passing Escape Point, so named, as the reader may recollect, in grateful remembrance of theprovidential escape a small party of us experienced there, we saw analligator slide his unwieldy carcass from the soft mud-bank, upon whichhe had been lazily reclining, into one of the creeks we had so muchdifficulty in crossing. We could not but feel grateful that even theexistence of these monster reptiles in this river was then unknown to us, as the bare thought of a visit from one of them would have added to theunpleasantness of our position, while the actual presence of so wholesalea gastronomer would perhaps have given another and less auspicious nameto Escape Point. 

A creek, ten miles from Point Torment, afforded us shelter for the night, which was again wet and squally. 

March 14. 

At daybreak the blue vault above was still disfigured by dark inkyblotches of clouds. We reached the ship before breakfast, and found thatMr. Helpman and Mr. Keys had ascertained that the opening on thenorth-east side of Point Torment was a great bay, extending ten miles ina south-easterly direction, with a width of the same distance: its shoresthroughout were fringed with mangroves, through which the tide found itsway, inundating many miles of the interior at high-water. 

STOKES'S BAY. 

In the north and south corners of the depths of this bay they found aninlet, each being about three miles deep; narrow, sandy ridges, almostdry at low-water, trending to the North-West, and separated by channelsfrom three to four fathoms, occupied the greater portion of thisextensive bay, which Captain Wickham, out of compliment, named aftermyself. 

Point Torment afforded a very fair field for the exertions of ourcollectors in Natural History. Without wishing to bore my readers withanother long mosquito story, I think the following may be interesting. 

AN OFFICER ENTANGLED IN MANGROVES. 

One of the officers on a shooting excursion lost his way and gotentangled in a mangrove forest, where the ground being a soft mud, travelling became very laborious, particularly in a temperature of 85degrees and without water; fatigue hastened by thirst, at length quiteknocked up my shipmate, who threw himself exhausted on the ground. Invain did he seek for a little rest, for no sooner was he quiet thanswarms of mosquitoes assailed him, and forced him again on his legs;unwelcome as these tormenting visitors generally are, they were probablyin this case the means of saving my friend's life, as goaded on by theirunceasing attacks, to exertions otherwise out of the question, heeventually reached assistance, and was brought on board in a mosthelpless condition. 

The tide here was two hours later than at Foul Point: the greatest risenoticed in the ship was thirty feet, which was seven feet less than wehad found it in the yawl. 

We had several heavy squalls from eastward this afternoon, and during theearly part of the night, with rain and thunder. 

March 15. 

The morning broke dull and gloomy, with a light breeze from the eastward. There were altogether evident symptoms of a decided and immediate changein the weather. The survey of the south-eastern portion of the soundbeing now complete, the ship was taken over to the high rocky land lyingnorth 20 miles from Point Torment. We crossed the flat extending fourmiles North-West from that point, in from two to three fathoms atlow-water; the soundings afterwards varied from nine to eleven fathomswith a soft, muddy sand bottom. We anchored in seven fathoms low-water, one mile and a half South-South-West from the southern of two small rockyislets, lying 16 miles north from Point Torment and three from the rockyshore behind them; a sandbank, dry at low-water, extended from theseislets to within half a mile of the ship. 

CHANGE OF LANDSCAPE. 

Our eyes were now relieved by a pleasing change of landscape; the landhad wholly changed in character from that of which we had seen so muchand grown so weary. It no longer stretched away in an illimitable andboundless plain, but rising abruptly from the water's edge, attained anelevation of 700 feet. The highest part of this range (afterwards namedCompass Hill) bore North by West distant four and a quarter miles. Wewere all of course exceedingly anxious to visit this new land; but theweather, strange to say, put our patience to a trial of four days, duringwhich it equalled in severity any we had experienced under Swan Point. Itcommenced with dark masses of clouds rising in the east, which were soonfollowed by a fresh breeze from the South-East with heavy rain, graduallyfreshening as it came round to the westward, blowing hardest betweenWest-South-West and West-North-West. The barometer being out of order wewere unable to observe how this unusual change would have affected thatinstrument; the thermometer, however, fell to 76 degrees, an alterationof temperature which, combined with the dampness of the atmosphere, exposed us to the novel sensation of cold. We noticed the time ofhigh-water was about fifteen minutes earlier than at Point Torment, theflood-stream setting East-South-East and the ebb west. The former at arate of two miles, and the latter one mile per hour. 

March 21. 

At length the wished for change arrived, and we again beheld this morningthe deep pure blue of a southern sky. We were all eager to commence ourexploration, and Mr. Usborne, ever anxious to be actively employed, wasso far recovered that he induced the surgeon, though reluctantly, toallow him to again share in the duties of the survey. He was accordinglydespatched to look for a berth for the ship further to the North-West, while Captain Wickham and myself went towards Compass Hill. We wereaccompanied by Mr. Bynoe, who, during our excursion, was fortunate enoughto add several rare birds to his collection. 

EXPLORATION OF THE BAY. 

We landed in a small sandy bay at the western end of a growth ofmangroves, fringing the shore behind the islands. The sandbank frontingthem we found to extend to the bay we landed in; to the westward of itthere was deep water close to the shore. Wood and water might easily beobtained in this bay, a circumstance that may give it value in the eyesof future navigators, as it did in ours. 

Before ascending the hill we crossed a flat clothed with rich grass, outof which we flushed several Pheasant-cuckoos. * We found one of theirnests on the ground containing four eggs, in size and colour theyresembled the domestic pigeon. The nimble manner in which these birds hopalong the branches of trees, with their long tails whisking behind, givethem, at the first glance, more the appearance of monkeys than birds. 

(*Footnote. Centropus Phasianellus. )

A NEW VINE. 

We found here the gouty-stem tree of large size, bearing fruit; and alsoa vine, which, from all the information I have since been able tocollect, appears to be quite a new specimen;* it bore a small butwell-tasted black berry, similar in shape and general appearance to thegrape sometimes seen climbing over the cottage doors in England. Eachfruit contained three large seeds, in shape and size resembling thecoffee berry. It was growing in a light sandy soil, and the temperatureto which it was exposed varies from 76 to 110 degrees. It is a matter ofgreat regret that I was not able to introduce this new species of vineinto England; the seeds and specimens of it having been unfortunatelydestroyed by mice and insects. I was, however, more fortunate at Sydneyand Swan River. 

(*Footnote. From the description I gave of this vine to Sir W. Hooker hethought it quite new. )

COMPASS HILL. 

We at length gained the top of Compass Hill, which we found to be aslight mound on a platform of coarse sandstone formation, with fragmentsof quartz; the sandstone was tinged with red, and appeared to becrumbling away; a straggling growth of white eucalypti covered the crestof this height, which rather spoilt the view we had promised ourselves;however, by climbing several of them, I managed to see all round. 

West, six and a half miles, there was a snug cove fronted by a smallisland, from whence the coast appeared to take a more northerlydirection. The extremes of a large sheet of water bore North by West andWest by North, which we afterwards found to be connected with theabove-mentioned cove. A succession of heights, similar to the one we wereon, bounded our view between North and North-East. Twenty-one miles, in aSouth-East by East direction, were some detached, round hills, apparentlythe termination of the high land on which we stood; these appeared torise out of a plain of such an extent, in a South-East and easterlydirection, that I conceived it possible it may have extended to the rearof Collier Bay, which damped the interest we had previously lookedforward to, in the exploration of that part of the coast, as it tendedmaterially to weaken the probability of finding any large opening there. In crossing one of the valleys in our descent to the boats, Mr. Bynoewounded a large kangaroo; we gave chase; but notwithstanding all ourefforts, and at the expense of many a bruise, stumbling over the ruggedground, the prize, almost within our grasp, escaped, and, to add to ourmisfortune, one of the small compasses was found missing, the strap thatsuspended it having given way; from this accident the hill received itsname. 

PORT USBORNE. 

On our return to the ship, we found Mr. Usborne had discovered goodanchorage in the cove we had seen from the hill, which in commemorationof his providential recovery was called after him Port Usborne. 

March 22. 

It was a clear and beautiful morning, and the sun as it rose shed aglittering stream of light over the placid waters of the bay, nowslightly rippled by an easterly air. All were early and busily engaged inmoving the ship into Port Usborne. On our way we crossed the inner edgeof a bank seen from Compass Hill, in three fathoms: Helpman's south isletbore at the time east three and a half miles; after crossing this bank, the least water we had was ten fathoms; this depth we found in passing onthe eastern side of the small, low island fronting Port Usborne. Asolitary overspreading tree, and a white patch on its eastern extremityrenders this island conspicuous, and is of this importance, that itguides a stranger to the only safe anchorage among the islands on theeastern shore of King's Sound. As a further guide to Port Usborne it issituated at the southern extremity of all these islands, and where thecoast suddenly trends away to the eastward. 

We were delighted to find ourselves in an anchorage almost surrounded byland, and although the rugged sandstone ridges, with their dark, mysterious, and densely-wooded valleys, did not give the shore a veryinviting appearance, still the very wildness of the scenery contrastedpleasingly in our remembrance with the monotonous level of the countryabout Point Torment, and on the banks of the Fitzroy. Our presentposition had also its practical advantages, being well adapted forcarrying on the essential duties of the survey, for which service theboats were prepared in the course of the afternoon. 

This snug little port we found to be three-quarters of a mile broad andone deep, and varying in depth from seven to fifteen fathoms: it faceswest, the entrance points lying nearly north and south of each other, andaffords an abundant supply of wood and water. We saw no traces ofinhabitants; not even the curling smoke that had so often indicated theirpresence, greeted the eye; all was silent, and the feelings of utterloneliness were only dispelled by the mournful screams of the curlew, andoccasional howl of the wild dog, as the deepening shadows of night closedin. 

March 23. 

The boats were manned early, and we left the ship with the best wishes ofthe anxious group who watched our departure, and speculated with eageranticipation upon the probable result of our enterprise. 

EASTERN SHORE OF KING'S SOUND. 

Mr. Usborne proceeded in one boat to examine a group of islands, lyingsix miles North-West from our anchorage; Mr. Tarrant and myself in theother, to explore the eastern shore of King's Sound. It was thus againour good fortune to enjoy the exciting pleasure of anticipated discovery;perchance again to wander over the face of a country, now the desertheritage of the solitary savage, but fated, we hope, to become the abodeof plenty, and the land of peace. 

After passing the extreme North-West point of the mainland, seen from theship, we discovered a deep bay, which once reached, would afford safeanchorage for a fleet. Near its northern point a large stream of waterfell into the sea in glittering cascades; off this a ship may anchor intwelve fathoms within a quarter of a mile; close to the west is a smallsandy beach. Promising to refresh ourselves at this inviting stream, wecontinued our course to the northward. After passing a deep narrowchannel, trending North-West by West we met the first rush of thenortherly, or ebb stream, which, running at the rate of six or sevenknots, swept us through a very small, dangerous opening, between somerocky islets and the main. A small bay fortunately afforded us the meansof avoiding a treacherous ledge of sunken rocks, which had the boattouched, at the almost giddy rapidity we were hurried along, ourdestruction must have been inevitable. Landing to cook our dinners, Iwent to the top of the highest neighbouring hill, to obtain a round ofangles: our journey was a perfect scramble, the face of the country beingintersected by deep ravines, and covered with huge blocks of coarsesandstone; over these we observed several of the rock-kangaroo, boundingwith their long, bushy tails swinging high in the air as if in defianceof pursuit. The view of the archipelago, from this position, fullysatisfied me, that without incurring great risk, it would be impossiblefor a ship to thread her way through the numerous islands, independent ofshoals, tide-races, and shifting winds, which form the ordinary perils ofsuch navigation. I reckoned more than eighty islands in this portion ofthe archipelago alone. 

CONE BAY. 

After dinner we proceeded, steering North-North-East, and crossed twodeep bays, the first 3 and the second 4 1/2 miles wide, both affordinggood anchorage, but utterly useless from the barrier of reefs and isletsextending across their mouths. These bays and the ranges of hills wepassed, trended East-South-East. To the second and deepest we gave thename of Cone Bay, from a singular hill of that form on its eastern shore. 

The eastern entrance of a small tortuous channel afforded us a restingplace for the night, having made good 17 miles in a North-North-Eastdirection from the ship. The observations were made for latitude on thesouth point, and gave a result of 16 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South. It wasnearly dark when we anchored, and therefore our intended attempt to gainthe summit of the neighbouring heights, was necessarily postponed tillthis morning. 

March 24. 

When the first rays of the sun saw us struggling over the huge masses ofrock of which they are composed. The view itself differed but little fromthat obtained yesterday, except that the islands are yet more numerous, the mainland more frequently indented with bays varying from two to fivemiles in width, and invariably trending in the same East-South-Eastdirection. The long and narrow islands which these bays containedgenerally subsided to the South-South-West. I was fully occupied insketching the surrounding objects from this station, till the tide hadrisen sufficient for us to pass the channel. After a late breakfast weagain bore away to the North-East under a double-reefed sail, as the skywore a threatening appearance. After clearing the channel we crossed abay about two miles wide and four deep, thickly studded with smallislands. At noon being near the north point of it, I landed in order tosecure a latitude, and at the same time a round of angles. Having theflood tide against us, we had only made five miles in a North by Eastdirection from last night's bivouac. 

NATIVE FIRES. 

Here for the first time since leaving the Fitzroy we saw native fires. One of them was upon an island eight or nine miles from the main, betweenwhich, however, a chain of smaller ones formed links of communication. These signs of inhabitants gave us hopes of finding some improvement fromthe almost utter sterility that had hitherto prevailed among thesescattered islands. We had as yet seen no traces of either canoes orrafts, and therefore were not a little curious to see what mode ofconveyance the natives of these parts used. We soon again moved onwardsin a north by east direction, across another large bay, which, similar tothe last, contained many islets. It was with great reluctance we pursuedthis northerly course, as I hoped ere this to have found an openingleading to the coast near Collier Bay; but the result of this day'sprogress fully satisfied me of the improbability of any such existing. 

REMARKABLE HEADLAND. 

The north point of this bay forms a most remarkable headland, risingabruptly from the water to an elevation of 400 feet. Its cliffy facepresented a grey and aged appearance, which together with the strangecolumn-shaped rocks, scattered over its level summit, gave it theappearance of an ancient turreted fortress. Here I first noticed a changein the strata; hitherto it had been invariably west-north-west, whilefrom this point, as far as our subsequent experience enabled us todecide, it was west. I may be pardoned for noticing by way of a momentarydigression that all the rocks hitherto seen on this part of the coastprecisely resemble the group forming the western side of Sunday Strait;the inclination and direction of the strata are identical; while anexamination of all the high rocky portions of this archipelago willsatisfy the geologist that they belong to the same age of the world. Thehistory of these coral reefs and islands, which have already attainedsomething like a majority (if I may use the expression) may be read, atleast it is apparently clearly written in the rising banks around, whichare just struggling with the tide before they lift themselves foreverbeyond its reach. As they rise, the mangrove, the pioneer of suchfertility as the sea deposits, hastens to maturity, clothing them withits mantle of never-fading green, and thus bestowing on these barrenreefs the presence of vegetable life. 

WHIRLPOOL CHANNEL. 

Our course now lay along the western foot of the curious headland justdescribed, a rapid tide soon hurried us past its frowning shadows into avery winding channel scarcely half a mile wide, and more than 20 fathomsdeep; in this we experienced violent whirlpools, the first of which, fromwant of experience, handled us very roughly, suddenly wrenching the oarsout of the men's hands, and whirling the boat round with alarmingrapidity; after several round turns of this kind we shot out of thechannel (which from the above circumstance we called Whirlpool Channel)into a bay about three miles wide, trending east; at the head of it weresome snug coves, the shores of which were clothed with long rich grassand clumps of palm trees, thus realizing the hopes we had entertained offinding a more fertile country on first observing signs of inhabitants. We would fain have occupied one of these beautiful coves for the night, but as there was still two hours' daylight, we pushed on across the bayfor a group of islands three miles further in a north-north-eastdirection. We obtained snug quarters for the night in a little sandycove, between the largest of this small cluster of isles which we foundto differ totally in shape and character from any yet seen; they trendedNorth-North-West in narrow ridges, and were of a grey slate formation, their eastern sides formed steep precipices, while the western subsidedto the water in rich grassy slopes, leaving quite a serrated ridge ontheir summits. 

BATHURST ISLAND. 

We managed to reach the most elevated part of the highest island, bycrawling along its ridge on our hands and knees. From this station Irecognized the islands to the North-West to be those forming the easternshore of Sunday Strait, and from the westerly trend of some larger onesbearing North-East about eight miles, I rightly supposed them to be thesame Captain King had laid down off that part of the coast, where ittrends away to the eastward into Collier Bay; the largest of these I inconsequence named Bathurst Island, after his vessel. We were glad to findthe islands becoming less numerous, and a prospect of at last making ourway to the eastward. We just finished our observations, as the sun'sbright orb touched the distant horizon, and ere we reached the boat, thelast vestige of day had taken its silent flight. Our present position inthis network of islands, will be better described by giving it inlatitude and longitude, which we found to be 16 degrees 12 minutes Southand 123 degrees 32 minutes East. We had as usual a fine night with alight East-South-East breeze, which had succeeded a strong one fromSouth-East during the day. 

March 25. 

Daylight found us running before a fresh breeze from the South-East in aNorth-North-East direction; crossing the mouths of small bays, four milesbrought us to the North-West extreme of the mainland, the shores of whichwe followed for two miles in a East-North-East and one in an East halfSouth direction, when we came to a small sandy bay where we landed tosearch in a promising ravine for water; this we had the good fortune tofind almost immediately; whilst the breakers were filling, Mr. Tarrantand myself ascended a hill near, for a few angles. 

APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 

The country again presented a barren appearance, large masses of coarsesandstone lay scattered over the face of it; a wiry grass, with a fewstunted gum-trees growing in the ravines, were all the vegetation thispoint boasted of, and from what we saw of the interior, it appearedscarcely more inviting. The sterility however which apparently prevailedover this part of Australia, could not obliterate those feelings of deepinterest, which must pervade everyone, as the eye wanders for the firsttime over a country hitherto unknown. 

VISITED BY A NATIVE. 

We had just completed our surveying operations, when two of the boat'screw came to report a visit from one of the natives, and concludingothers were at hand, hastened up to strengthen our party; they said theirsable visitor came to them without any enticing, no offers of red or bluehandkerchiefs, or some gaudy bauble that seldom fails to catch the eye ofa savage--and without the slightest indication of fear. We hurried downto see this marvellously confiding native, who we found coming up thehill; he met us with all the confidence of an old acquaintance. His firstact of civility, was to show Mr. Tarrant and myself an easy road to thebeach; and I shall never forget as he preceded us, or rather walked byour side, yielding the path, with natural politeness, to those he seemedto regard as his guests, how wonderful was the agility he displayed inpassing over the rocks; sometimes coming down the face of one almostprecipitous, without the least apparent effort. When I pointed to thefresh water, he said slowly and distinctly, "Yampee, Yampee. " In heighthe was about 5 feet 8 inches, his hair bore no symptoms of being tied upbehind (a custom we always before noticed) his teeth were also perfect, and though his brow had the distinctive peculiarity of the people of thiscontinent, his forehead was remarkably high, his perception was veryquick, his utterance gentle and slow, both in articulation and by signs(not flinging his arms about in the windmill-like fashion customary withthose we had before seen) his manner of conversation afforded a mostpleasing contrast to that of the natives hitherto seen, and altogether Iwas exceedingly prepossessed in his favour. We very much regretted thatwe were not better provided with presents for him: particularly as itseldom happened that I was without a supply, for such occasions; in thiscase, however, all I could give him consisted of a few beads, and somebiscuit which he devoured most readily. Nor ought the perfect confidencethis man manifested, in thus trusting himself alone and unarmed, amongsuch extraordinary strangers, to be passed over unnoticed: it commandedrespect from us all. His conduct too was in the same spirit when weparted from him, though then I admit it almost as much disappointed asastonished me: when the boat left the shore, he turned to ascend thebeach, and without once looking back, walked as unconcernedly andlistlessly away, as though such things were to him everyday sights. 

NATIVE HABITS. 

This want of curiosity is a very singular and I believe an almostdistinctive feature in the character of the native Australian. Among allother savages of whom I have read, or among whom I have had anyopportunity of judging for myself, except the inhabitants of Tierra delFuego, a perpetual and never satisfied curiosity seems to be the leadinghabit of their minds: here, however, wonder is rarely expressed, curiosity seldom apparent--yet their indifference is not stupidity, ortheir simplicity cunning. 

BATHURST ISLAND. 

We had now been sufficiently long in Australia to know the value of astream of water, and therefore always felt the necessity ofparticularizing the locality of any we had the good fortune to find; fromthis one the extremes of Bathurst Island bore North-West and North-East. We now pulled for the opening on the east side of Bathurst Island, butfinding the flood-tide setting so strong through it from the northward, Ifound it would be a waste of time to contend with it, and thereforeproceeded to a hill on the east end of Bathurst Island. A large flock ofwhite cockatoos screamed violently, as if wishing to dispute our landing, and it was not till their numbers had been thinned, of which our eveningmeal felt the benefit, that we could get any peace. We reached the summitof the island by following up a ravine, which formed the only break inthe cliffs that faced the South-East side of the island. There was athick growth of red gums and the papyrus, on its sides, and near thesummit we found rocks containing iron; a vein of the same vitrifiedmatter I have described as seen at Swan Point, separated it from theprevailing rock of the island, which was composed of sandstone andfragments of quartz. The rocks containing metal had a strange appearance, being heaped together in the form of a whirlpool; the ground beneathappeared quite hollow. Our view was very commanding, and fully repaid usfor the scramble up; there was a clear sea to the North-East, and bearingEast-South-East were some small islands, which I afterwards found to besituated near the depth of Collier Bay. The Macleay Isles of Captain Kingbore North-North-East about six miles: between the latter and a groupfarther west, there was a clear wide channel, which appeared to leadbetween the island we were on and the next to the westward. As this wasthe first part of the coast, since leaving Port Usborne, that a sailingvessel could approach without great risk, we proceeded to examine thatchannel more minutely, and were sorry to find the extensive coral reefswhich fronted the islands, left a space of only half a mile between; ablack pointed rock ten feet above high-water, marks the edge of thewestern reef, where it is covered by the tide; keeping this close on thestarboard hand, will conduct a ship into good anchorage in 13 and 15fathoms. The rise and fall of the tide at this place, we found to be 22feet. 

NATIVE HABITATIONS. 

As we required another station on the west end of Bathurst Island, Iarranged that we should pass the night in a small cove near itssouth-eastern extreme; here we found several native habitations of atotally different and very superior description to any we had hithertoseen in any part of Australia; they bore a marked resemblance to those Ihad seen on the South-East coast of Tierra del Fuego, which was sostriking as to be remarked even by some of the boat's crew, who hadbelonged to the Beagle in her wanderings on that stormy coast. 

Stout poles from 14 to 16 feet high formed the framework of these snughuts--for so indeed they deserve to be termed--these were broughttogether conically at the roof; a stout thatching of dried grasscompletely excluded both wind and rain, and seemed to bespeak theexistence of a climate at times much more severe than a latitude of 16degrees 6 minutes south, would lead one to anticipate. The remains ofsmall fires, a well greased bark pillow, a head ornament of seabird'sfeathers, together with several other trifling articles, strewn upon thefloors of these wigwams, proved that they had been very recentlyinhabited. 

NATIVE RAFT. 

But perhaps the most interesting discovery in this bay, was a nativeraft, which we found near the beach, in such a position as must haverequired the exertions of several men to have placed it there; beingheavier than either of our boats. 

In the construction of this raft, almost everything had been left tonature. It was framed of the dead trunk of a mangrove tree, with threedistinct stems growing from one root, about 18 feet long, and 4 1/2broad. The roots at one end closely entwined, as is the habit of thetree, formed a sufficient bulwark at the stem, while an elbow in thecentre of the trunk, served the same purpose at the stern: a platform ofsmall poles, well covered with dried grass, gave a sufficient flooring tothis rude specimen of a raft. I could not survey it without allowing mythoughts to carry me away in pleasing reflections upon the gradualprogress of human ingenuity by the advance of which, the same intellectthat first contents itself with the mere floating of the single tree, atlength shapes a forest into timbers and launches the floating fortress intriumph on the deep!

RETURN TO PORT USBORNE. 

We were now about 40 miles in a direct line from Port Usborne, andperhaps 70 by the winding course we were obliged to follow; only twodays' provisions remained, and as we were still deficient of material forthe chart of this archipelago, I was reluctantly obliged to abandon theidea of attempting to reach Collier Bay. The mainland we had explored, since leaving Port Usborne, may be described as forming eight bays, varying in depth from three to eight miles, and in width from two tofive; their general trend is East-South-East; many islets skirt theirshores, and almost more than can be counted fill their mouths. 

March 26. 

With the first grey of the morning we left Bathurst Island, on our returnto the southward. Whilst passing inside the cluster of isles of slateformation, we heard a "halloa, " and on looking in the direction fromwhence it proceeded, a native was observed on a raft: the boat's coursewas immediately altered so as to cut him off should he attempt to escape, but to my great surprise he paddled towards us with all possible haste. 

THE NATIVE YAMPEE. 

He was soon alongside, and with great satisfaction we at once recognizedour strange friend of yesterday, who amongst the boat's crew, went by thesobriquet of Yampee. He again made use of the word Yampee according toour orthography, and after repeating it several times, I offered him somewater, which he very eagerly accepted, twice emptying a canister that hadoriginally held 4 pounds of preserved meat; this afforded me additionalproof of Yampee being the word the natives of these parts use for water. At Swan River, the native name for water is gab-by, which differs so muchas to lead us to suppose the dialect of the two places is quite distinct. This supposition is also borne out by the fact, that Miago, the native ofSwan River we had on board, could never understand the language spoken byhis countrymen, on the western shore of King's Sound. We found our newacquaintance as yesterday, perfectly naked, the raft he was on was inevery respect similar to that previously seen upon Roe's Group, with thisslight exception, that between each pole several small pieces of woodwere inserted so as to make the flooring of the raft almost smooth. Intothe large end of the centre, and largest pole, six long pegs were driven, forming a kind of basket in which were secured his means for procuringfire; they consisted of two pieces of white flint, and some tinder rudelymanufactured from the inner bark of the papyrus tree. He used in paddlinga short spear, sharp at each end, and struck the water alternately oneither side; in this primitive manner he contrived to make way with arapidity that astonished us all. He had two spears on the raft, besidesthe one he used for paddling; one of them was about 12 feet long, alsopointed at each end, though not barbed; and a small stick, similar tothat used by other natives for throwing at birds, and small animals. Aswell as we could understand by his signs, it appeared that he had beenanxiously waiting our arrival, and had pushed off from the main tointercept the boat, on our leaving Bathurst Island. We threw him a line, and he immediately comprehended our intention, and its use, by at oncemaking fast to the raft; an instance of confident reliance upon our goodintentions, which reflected much credit upon the unsuspicious openness ofhis own character, and which I should have exceedingly regretted by anyact of ours to abuse. 

PARTING WITH THE NATIVE. 

Had not the distance and our scant supply of food, rendered such a stepimprudent, I should have been very glad to have towed him to the ship. Ireally believe he would have trusted himself with us, for that or a muchlonger distance; but this could not be, and therefore, after endeavouringto make him understand that we should sleep some distance to the south, where there was a larger boat, alluding to the ship, we filled his basketwith bread, gave him as much water as he could drink, and bidding himfarewell, reluctantly cut him adrift: I shall not soon forget thesorrowful expression of his countenance, when this apparentlyinhospitable act was performed; it did not seem however to quench hisregard for his new friends, for so long as we could see him he was hardat work paddling in our wake. I noticed that the beads given himyesterday were gone; this fact, coupled with the smokes seen during theday, satisfied me that he had friends in the neighbourhood, to whom Ihoped he would report favourably of his new acquaintances; we hadcertainly endeavoured to obtain his goodwill. Simple-hearted, trustingsavage, farewell!

NATIVE SPEARS. 

The woodcut represents the difference between the spear used by thenatives of this district and those of Swan River. 

We soon reached Whirlpool Channel, through which the tide again hurriedand whirled us with almost frightful rapidity; we were in one part of itshot down a fall of several feet, the boat's bow being fairly buried inthe boiling current. Emerging from this channel the hoary face of theremarkable headland already described, burst on our view; and as it wasnecessary if possible to reach its summit, we landed in a small bay, nearthe southern extremity. 

By following a winding ravine we gained the crest of this singularplatform, which we found formed of a fine-grained sandstone, with somebeautiful specimens of crystallised quartz on its higher parts, overwhich was a slight sprinkling of vegetation, consisting of a few smallgumtrees and patches of coarse grass. The weather was unusually cloudy, with squalls from the North-East; towards the evening it was fine with amoderate breeze from East-South-East. As it was late when we reached theboat, we spent the night where we landed. 

March 27. 

We were early on the move pursuing our southerly course, the morningbeing rather gloomy with a fresh North-East wind, which raised a gooddeal of sea in the mouths of the larger bays. As the day closed wereached a cove half a mile north of Tide-Race Point, where we passed thenight. 

March 28. 

This morning the thermometer was down to 72 degrees at daylight, whichgave us the novel sensation of cold. It was late in the forenoon beforethe violent ripplings at Tide-Race Point had subsided sufficiently toallow of our passing it. The rate of the current at this point appearedat times scarcely less than eight knots per hour, and traversing a rockyledge, extending to some islands, and nearly dry at low-water, renderedit almost impassable, except when nearly high tide. 

CASCADE BAY. 

In the afternoon we reached the cascade discovered on our way to thenorthward, and from which the bay within which it is received its name. We spent an hour or two luxuriating in the thorough enjoyment of a treatso rare, as this beautiful stream must be considered in North-westernAustralia. In the evening we continued our return to Port Usborne, by achannel leading from the bottom of Cascade Bay into the large sheet ofwater first seen from Compass Hill; our progress was arrested at itsinner entrance by the violence with which the tide rushed through, and wewere therefore obliged to pass another night in the boats. 

RETURN OF THE BOATS. 

March 29. 

We reached the ship this morning, entering Port Usborne by a narrow rockychannel, on its North-West shore; on the precipitous sides in thispassage we noticed several of the Rock Kangaroo. 

We found that Mr. Usborne had returned three days before us: from hisaccount of the islands he had visited, they appear to have the samesterile character as most of those we had seen; in other respects, histrip was void of interest, beyond that of surveying. During the absenceof the boats, tidal and magnetic observations had been made, somespecimens in Natural History had been collected, and all that could inany way add to the interest of the expedition, had been as well attendedto as the means placed at our disposal would allow. 

We closed at Port Usborne our explorations in King's Sound, the result ofwhich enabled us to fill up the gap long existing in the charts of theNorth-west coast of Australia, and which had for years been the theme ofmuch ingenious geographical speculation. The result of our labours, if ithad been less brilliant than eager anticipation at the onset led us tohope for, had nevertheless been on the whole satisfactory. The riverFitzroy, although not of the magnitude that we hoped to find, was stillan undoubtedly valuable acquisition to our stock of geographicalknowledge, and offered a way of access into the interior, of which we hadavailed ourselves to the extent of 90 miles, and which subsequentexplorers might yet further improve: while in many minor yet importantmatters, much had been done, and much seen, to more than compensate forthe disappointments and annoyances inseparable from the pursuits of theadventurer. 

LEAVING PORT USBORNE. 

March 30. 

The morning was unusually stormy, dark clouds rested upon the adjacenthigh land, while others no less portentous hurried past us on the wingsof the tempest. Soon after breakfast, we bade adieu to the wild sceneryof Port Usborne, and stood across the Sound, for our old anchorage on thenorth side of Point Cunningham, distant one and twenty miles. In themouth of the harbour we passed over a coral knoll, having five fathoms onit. We did not, however, reach our destination till nearly 6 P. M. , havingbeen taken some distance up the Sound, by the flood-tide. Our soundingsin crossing varied from fifteen to twenty fathoms, chiefly over rockyground. It rained almost all the day, and we had several sudden shifts ofwind, from South-East to North-West. Our first view of the western shoreof the Sound was singular; Point Cunningham, and Carlisle Head, appearedlike two high square-looking islands. We anchored soon after high-water, which appeared to be about a quarter of an hour earlier than at PortUsborne. We remained at this anchorage till the 3rd of April, duringwhich time several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, but someadditions were made to the collection of Natural History, particularly inthe ornithological branch. It is not a little remarkable, that fishshould be so scarce on this part of the coast, a fact also noticed byCaptain King. 

INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. 

April 1. 

This morning five natives made their appearance on the beach. CaptainWickham and myself went on shore, in order if possible to induce them tovisit the ship: on landing he recognised them for old acquaintances, andI gave the eldest of the party, a handkerchief upon which he seemed tohave set his affections; however when he understood our wish for thecompany of himself and friends on board, he was with difficulty inducedto retain it. None but those who have made the experiment, are aware ofwhat has to be overcome before any sort of intercourse can be carried onby signs; or how often, among the most intelligent, the greatest mistakesmust of necessity occur. I have since thought, remembering what passedduring this interview, that while we were making signs to them that onboard they would find something to eat, each man's fears suggested theprobability of a certain convocation, not where he eats, but where he iseaten, and induced him to decline standing treat upon the occasion. 

The singular manner these men had also of holding the face turnedupwards, in order to escape the plague of flies, fully confirmed thetruth of old Dampier's account of the manners of these people when hefirst discovered this part of the world. The eldest was the spokesman, orrather the signsman of the party, and this is always the custom, so faras we have had an opportunity of judging. The word they make use of inbowing (which they did quite in an Eastern style) appeared to be irruirru: their breasts were scarred with deep horizontal cuts, such as wehad previously noticed on the natives in Roebuck Bay. I was so muchstruck with the resemblance between these people and the natives ofTierra del Fuego, that I have been tempted to believe that the stream ofpopulation flowed thitherward from the continent of America. 

I ought to mention that when Captain Wickham and myself left the ship, inthe hope of inducing the natives to return with us, Miago, hearing of theexpected visit, immediately went below, and dressed himself to the bestpossible advantage. No sooner did the boat come alongside, than heappeared at the gangway, inquiring with the utmost possible dignity, "where blackfellas?" and was evidently and deeply mortified that he hadno opportunity of astonishing the natives. 

There has been a marked change in the weather, since the sun crossed theequator: we have had no repetitions of the easterly squalls, before soprevalent, and the winds have been almost regular in the following order. From 3 P. M. To 1 A. M. A light breeze from South-South-West whichfreshening alters to South-East where it remains till 8 A. M. , from thathour gradually decreasing, and at the same time changing to North-Eastand North. The thermometer, for some days past has ranged from 72 to 89degrees; a temperature which we thought a few months ago intolerable, wasnow quite agreeable. 

We looked forward with the utmost anxiety to the result of our arrival atPort George the Fourth, as there, or at least in that neighbourhood, wehoped to hear some tidings of our friends Grey and Lushington, who, whenwe separated from them at the Cape, intended to land in Hanover Bay, establish a depot for stores, and from thence penetrate if possible intothe interior. 

THEIR PEACEABLE DISPOSITION. 

I had no fear on the subject of any hostility from the natives, for inour own experience, we had as yet always found them inoffensive andpeaceable; while should they prove otherwise, I was satisfied that a veryslight acquaintance with the effects of gunpowder would be quitesufficient to quell their warlike propensities, but I did fear that theyhad chosen a very unfavourable point for debarkation, and that manycauses would combine to arrest their progress into the interior. Howunhappily my anticipations were verified, will be seen hereafter. 

Early on the morning of the 3rd, we left our anchorage under PointCunningham, and by two o'clock P. M. , had worked through Sunday Strait, where we encountered its usual heavy tide-races. At four o'clock in theafternoon, Caffarelli Island bore East-South-East, 9 miles distant: andabout six, the wind, which through the day had been light and variablequite deserted us, when to avoid drifting back into the strait weanchored in 29 fathoms; Caffarelli Island bearing South-South-East 5miles. The tide here appeared to be one hour earlier than in SundayStrait: the flood set in a south-easterly, and the ebb in an oppositedirection, at the rate of from half to one mile per hour. 

The 24th saw us again underweigh, by the light of the stars, but the windbeing variable and against us, we did not get beyond Adele Island, wherewe anchored in 14 fathoms: the nearest part of it bearing North 75degrees East 3 miles. 

ADELE ISLAND. 

Brue Reef was seen in the course of the day, and appeared to be correctlylaid down by Captain King: there appeared, however, some discrepancy inthe position of Adele Island, the southern extremity of which we found tobe in latitude 15 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds South, which is one mileand a half to the southward of the place assigned to it in his chart. Thesea was breaking heavily on the reef, which fronts the island for adistance of two miles. The island itself is low, desolate and barren. Wenoticed there was scarcely any set of tide at this anchorage. During theday's progress we found several coral ledges, in from 11 to 13 fathoms, and trending North-East by East, and with from 25 to 35 fathoms betweenthem. The specimens of this beautiful submarine production brought up bythe lead, were of the most delicate kind, nor on any occasion did thelead present any appearance to indicate that it had fallen among acoarser sort. One beautiful fragment was obtained in Sunday Strait in 30fathoms, a depth at which living coral is rarely found. 

BEAGLE BANK. 

April 5. 

Daylight on the 5th found us standing to theeastward--East-North-East--with a light northerly wind, in soundingsranging from 14 to 40 fathoms, and over a bottom of white and brown sandin the deep, and coral rock in the shoal water. In the afternoon we hadthe good fortune to discover one of the reefs, which render thenavigation of this part of the coast rather hazardous. The position ofthis danger, is however well marked by a bank of very white sand and deadcoral, from which the reef extends two miles and a half, in aNorth-North-West and one mile in a South-South-East direction; and whichrising some 15 feet above the mean level of the blue surrounding water, became a conspicuous object from our deck, even at the distance of sixmiles. We gave our discovery the name of Beagle Bank, as another memorialof the useful services in which our little vessel had been so frequentlyengaged, and our observations enabled us to fix the centre of it inlatitude 15 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 123 degrees 36 minutesEast. 

SHOAL SOUNDINGS. 

We anchored in the evening in 16 fathoms, the bank distant 3 1/2 miles ina South by East direction: half a mile nearer to it, we found only 4fathoms. The tide rose at this anchorage 12 feet. The flood stream beganby setting to the South-South-West, and ended at South-east by East. Theebb set West by North, and the utmost strength of stream never exceededone mile per hour. 

It was high-water at 10 o'clock P. M. , and the stream changed at the sametime. The tide was therefore two hours later here than in the entrance toKing's Sound, from which it would appear that the tidal wave approachesthis coast from the West-South-West. 

April 6. 

We made slight progress towards Port George the Fourth, during theforenoon; the water deepening to 20 and 30 fathoms, soon after we hadweighed. We espied a ridge extending to the South-east from Beagle Bank, which supplies another fact in support of the opinion I have beforeadvanced, and which gives a north-westerly trend to these ledges. Thewind failing, and the ebb-tide drifting us again to the westward, insight of Beagle Bank, the anchor was dropped 4 1/2 miles East by North ofit, and in a depth of 12 fathoms, to which we had suddenly shoaled from29, this position marked the limit of shoal soundings in an East by Northdirection from Beagle Bank. Between sunset and midnight we were able tomake 17 miles, in an East by North direction, when a contrary tide, andan accompanying calm, compelled us to anchor in 31 fathoms: the soundingsduring the run had varied from 35 to 39 fathoms: the bottom, latterly asoft mud, of a dirty grey colour. A twilight star placed our position 17miles west of Red Island, which corresponded with the bearings atdaylight. 

April 7. 

The wind being still very light, we were compelled to wait for theflood-tide, which did not favour us till a quarter past six in themorning. The last direction of the ebb stream was north. It was nearlydark before we reached our anchorage, in 18 fathoms, one mile from PointAdieu: on our way material was secured for laying down the sea-face ofthe Champagny Islands. Red Island brought to our recollection CaptainHeywood, by whom this part of the Australian continent had been seen, andof whose earlier career a notice will be found in Sir John Barrow'sinteresting narrative of the Mutiny of the Bounty. 

TRAFALGAR AND WATERLOO. 

The soundings during the entire day, ranged from 27 to 30 fathoms, andthe character of the bottom was similar to that last described. Ourobservations for latitude did not verify our position by the chart, though all its bearings and distances appeared relatively correct. Thediscrepancy may perhaps be ascribed to the effect of refraction, as wewere prevented by the land from observing on both horizons. The mostremarkable objects in this neighbourhood, were two hills, named byCaptain King, Mount Trafalgar, and Mount Waterloo, to record in onehemisphere, two memorable events, not likely to be easily forgotten inthe other: although assuredly the time will come when the peacefultriumphs of science and civilization, of which these names are hereenduring witnesses, will be far more highly valued, and far more trulyhonoured! Mount Trafalgar made its first appearance in the form of a hugequoin or wedge, resting longitudinally upon the horizon, with its pointtowards the south-east. 

Among other memoranda for the improvement of the chart of this coast, itshould be noted that the reef extending to the North-West from Jackson'speaked Island, appears to join the small islands lying near it in thatdirection, and to which, from their colour, we gave the name of The BrownIslands. 

THE BROWN ISLANDS. 

As there was every probability of the ship being detained in thisneighbourhood for some days, searching for traces of Lieutenants Grey andLushington's party, and as the examination of Collier Bay, where we stillhoped to find an opening leading into the interior, would prevent thenecessity of our return to this part of the coast, I applied to CaptainWickham, for permission to proceed with the two whaleboats on thatservice. A wound on the foot had in some degree unfitted me for any veryactive duty, but I felt satisfied that the opportunity--perhaps the lastI might have--ought not to be undervalued or neglected. 

BRECKNOCK HARBOUR. 

April 8. 

By daylight on the 8th, the boats had left the ship, and were standing tothe southward among the islands. Our party consisted of Mr. Helpman, Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself. Passing through the eastern part of Port Georgethe Fourth, we entered Roger Strait, which led into a large sheet ofwater, forming a beautiful harbour; we landed to obtain a better view ofit, on a small island at the southern entrance of this strait. This isletlooked truly inviting, being clothed with long rich grass, which to ourcost we found concealed boulders of granite; this was the first time wemet with this primitive rock, and from the colour of the surroundingheights it was evident we were in an old red sandstone region. Strange tosay the attraction on this island rendered our compasses quite useless;we noticed on its North-West side a portion of the wreck of a smallvessel. There was a small mangrove inlet in the South-East corner of thisharbour, over which the land was low, forming a gap in the neighbouringheights. We now pushed on for an island lying in the entrance of theharbour, bearing West by North 6 miles; our soundings in passing overthis part (of what we afterwards called Brecknock Harbour, as CaptainKing had named the entrance of it Camden Sound, from a distant view hehad of it) gave a depth of 7 fathoms, over an even muddy bottom; buttowards and in the entrance it increased to 13 fathoms. 

ENTRANCE ISLE. 

The island we now landed on, we called from its situation, EntranceIsland. From a high part overlooking its steep southern side we had avery commanding view. The centre of a string of small islets bore northone mile; there extended 2 miles in a west direction, from the northpoint of the harbour; both these and Entrance Isle escaped Captain King'snotice, owing to the distant view he had of this part of the coast. Apoint bearing South-West distant 3 miles, was the extreme of the mainlandthat we could see in the direction we were going. We found the sandstoneof this Island not of the same ancient red colour as that on the shorefronting it. One boat was employed in the meantime sounding the entranceof the harbour, which we found to be 2 miles across, and from 9 to 15fathoms deep; the mouth of it faces the West-North-West, Entrance Islelying half a mile outside its points, with a clear channel nearly a milewide, on either side of it. 

About a quarter of a mile off the main, and fronting the south side ofthis island, there is a singular needle-shaped rock, 20 feet high, marking the outer extreme of a coral ledge, which is covered athigh-water. As it now blew a fresh breeze from seaward, and the afternoonwas far advanced, we spent the remainder of the day in a furtherexamination of the entrance. We were much pleased with the result of ourevening's work, finding the approach to this fine harbour quite free fromdanger, and capable of admitting vessels of any size; there were no reefsor islets seaward of it to add to the anxiety of the navigator, or lessenthe value of our discovery; the importance of which will be greatlyenhanced, should Lieutenants Grey and Lushington have the good fortune todiscover any land fit for colonization in its neighbourhood. Our labourshere closed with observations for a boat rate, for the chronometers andlatitude, the latter being 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutes South on a sandybeach at the eastern side of Entrance Isle. 

SLATE ISLANDS. 

April 9. 

We rounded the extreme point to the South-West seen from Entrance Isle atsunrise; the rocks on this point were arranged quite in the form of afort, from whence it received the name of Battery Point; another group ofislands now came in view, bearing from Battery Point South-West by Southabout 4 miles; these we named Slate Islands, from their singularformation. They extended one mile North-West from a point of land;between them and Battery Point, the coast fell back forming two bays, crossing the mouths of which we had 13 fathoms. On passing Slate Islands, we saw a headland, named by Captain King Point Hall, bearing South byWest 1/2 West distant 8 miles. It has a high peaked and isolatedappearance, being separated from the contiguous high land by a low neck. We passed a bay 2 miles wide on its north-eastern, and a snug cove on itssouth-eastern side. It was past noon and we were glad to see the stagnantcalm, that had for hours reigned around, dispelled by the seabreeze whichnow darkened the horizon. Our course, during the afternoon was South byEast along a low rocky coast, but as we had to contend with a three-knottide, we did not get farther than a small sandy cove, bearing South byEast 9 miles from Point Hall, by the close of the day, which was the onlyspot we had seen the whole of the afternoon capable of affording shelterfor the boats. 

FRESHWATER COVE. 

We were agreeably surprised to find a stream of water running into thehead of this cove, as the parched appearance of the low hills over it didnot lead us to expect such good luck, in remembrance of which we calledit Freshwater Cove. Landing, I hastened to the south point of the cove, to secure the necessary data for the chart, before the surroundingobjects were veiled in darkness. We again appeared to be in a sterilewhite sandstone region, where, with the exception of a few land birds, there was a total absence of animal life, and almost that of thevegetable, for even the gumtrees common in this part, were not to beseen. Our view to the southward was very limited, embracing only theMontgomery Islands of Captain King; they consist of six small rockyislets resting on an extensive coral flat, that we afterwards observed tobe dry at low-water, and which extended to a large low sandy island, lying six miles west from them; the latter was not seen by Captain King, in his distant view of this neighbourhood. The eastern and largest of theMontgomery Isles stands on the extreme of the coral flat; we found it tobe 70 feet high, and bore South-West by South 7 miles from this point ofFreshwater Cove. The latitude we obtained in the course of the night gavea result of 15 degrees 49 minutes south. 

April 10. 

At daylight we continued pursuing our South by East course, following thesame kind of low straight rocky shore, as that of yesterday afternoon. Wepassed inside a reef fronting the shore from a mile south of FreshwaterCove; this passage was about half a mile wide and from 7 to 12 fathomsdeep. Having the flood-tide in our favour, we proceeded rapidly, and atthe end of four miles, found the trend of the coast suddenly changed toEast-North-East for two miles, when it again took a southerly direction, forming a chain of high rocky islets. Deferring our examination of themain, lying about a mile in the rear of these islets, we kept on ourSouth by East course, in the direction of some very high land now seenfor the first time. Three miles further brought us to a small rockyislet, where we landed for a set of angles. 

Our hopes were considerably raised on reaching the top of this islet, byfinding that we looked in vain for land towards the head of Collier Bay;the high land to the southward proved to be the south point of a largebay, having on its northern side similar high ranges. 

LIZARDS. 

This island was overrun with a great variety of lizards, in consequenceof which we named it Lizard Island. During our stay here, two birds, *rare on this part of the coast, were shot; they were of a smaller kindthan any I had before seen, and differed from them in plumage, beingwithout the white collar round the neck. Leaving Lizard Island, wecontinued our southerly route, and ere long saw more land ahead, lyinglike a blue cloud on the horizon. Ten miles brought us abreast of thehigh land we had first seen, and six more to the southern point of a bay, lying on its south-western side, where the duties of the survey againobliged us to land. We considered ourselves now entering once more on thenew lands of Australia, as Captain King could scarcely have had even adistant glimpse of this part; his extreme southern position being abreastof Freshwater Cove, from whence he describes the view of the coast asfollows. "The land to the southward trended deeply in, and appeared to memuch broken in its character. " We therefore naturally looked oneverything here with a greater degree of interest, and with the view ofaffording time to examine the country, and determine the position of thispoint by observation, I arranged to pass the night in its vicinity. 

(*Footnote. Haematopus picatus, described in the Appendix to CaptainKing's work on Australia. )

HEAD OF COLLIER BAY. 

The view from this station, blighted our hopes of finding an openingleading into the interior from Collier Bay, for we could trace the landall round the head of it, forming high ranges without a single break. This malapropos discovery, materially diminished the pleasure we hadbefore experienced, on first seeing a new part of the continent. Abouttwenty miles west from where we stood, were a group of islands, which Iwas able to identify as those seen from Bathurst Island, near the easternentrance point of King's Sound; they appeared to extend about ten milesin a northerly direction, from the western point of Collier Bay. 

AN EAGLE SHOT. 

Whilst using the theodolite, we came within the searching glance of ahungry eagle, which soaring over our heads for some time, at lengthswooped within range of our guns, when he paid for his curiosity with theloss of his life. This was the only rapacious bird we saw in Collier Bay, and appears to be of the species Falco leucogaster Latham. * Onexamination, the stomach contained fish and part of a small snake, andfrom what I have since observed this bird frequents the sea coast. Theirnests are very large, built on bare spots in the shape of a pyramid; someof them measuring three feet in diameter, and six high. To convey abetter idea of the size and exposed situation of the nests of thesebirds, I may state that on low parts of the coast, they were often usedas surveying marks. This projection, which we called Eagle Point, is of asiliceous sandstone formation, intersected by nearly vertical veins ofquartz, and forms a spur thrown off from a high range four miles to thesouth-eastward. We did not find any water in the few miles of countrytraversed in the course of the afternoon, yet everything wore a richgreen appearance, and the scenery in some of the dells we crossed, wasvery picturesque, and quite alive with birds and insects; flights ofmany-coloured parakeets swept by with a rapidity that resembled therushing sound of a passing gust of wind. Among the trees, I noticed forthe first time the Banksia, common in Western Australia; Mr. Cunningham, the botanist who accompanied Captain King, did not consider itsindigenous empire extended to the North-West coast. Of the other kinds, and which complete all the variety we observed on this part of thecontinent, were the mimosa, acacia, papyrus, and two sorts of Eucalyptus;there were also several plants of the order Leguminosae. 

(*Footnote. Figured in Mr. Gould's work on the Birds of Australia asIchthyiaetus leucogaster. )

THE SEABREEZE. 

We had a breeze throughout the entire day, from North-East till 1o'clock, then West-North-West till near midnight; this westerly orseabreeze, reached us within ten minutes of the time it did yesterday, aregularity we found to prevail the few days we spent on this part of thecoast. The tide (being near the spring) fell in the night 36 feet, leaving the greater part of the bay dry at low-water. Our observationsfor latitude placed Eagle Point in 16 degrees 10 1/4 minutes south. 

April 11. 

We left with the first streak of dawn, and pursued our course to thesouthward, passing inside a small reef lying half a mile west from EaglePoint. The eastern shore now took a South by West direction, formingshallow bights, flanked by hills of moderate elevation; our next stationwas an islet at the head of Collier Bay, bearing South-South-West 1/2West 15 miles from Eagle Point: it was in the mouth of a shoal bay aboutthree miles deep in a West-South-West direction, the shores of which werelined with mangroves and overlooked by a high rocky ridge. The width ofCollier Bay, at its entrance 20 miles, was here only six. 

NARROW INLET. 

The western shore ran in a North-West by West direction, a straight rockycoast, over which rose abruptly a range of barren heights. The tidestream gradually weakened as we approached the head of the bay, where itscarcely exceeded half a knot, and the soundings decreased to sevenfathoms, with a kind of muddy sand bottom; but the clearness of thewater, and the equal duration of the flood and ebb streams, afforded themost conclusive evidence of the small opening we now discovered in theSouth-East corner of the bay being nothing more than an inlet. It borefrom this islet East-South-East four miles, yet as a drowning man catchesat a straw, so did we at this inlet, and were soon in the entrance, whichwe found to be half a mile wide, with a very strong tide rushing out. After some difficulty we landed on a high rocky island in the mouth ofit, the summit of which afforded us a good view of the inlet, whichwithin the entrance widened out and was about two miles deep. A pointprevented our seeing the eastern extreme, which Mr. Helpman was sent toexamine; he found it extended two miles in an East-North-East direction, and like the other parts of it, to be lined with a scanty growth ofmangroves, and flanked by high rocky land. The shape of this inletresembles that of a bottle with a broad base, and being subject to atidal change of level of 36 feet, it is easy to imagine with whatviolence such a body of water must rush through the narrow entrance tokeep on a level with the slow-moving waters of the bay outside. The causeof this great rise of tide in the head of Collier Bay, may be attributedto there being no escape for the vast body of water flowing into it. Theland over the depth of this inlet which I have before spoken of, as beingbarren rocky heights, bounded our view to the southward; it boreSouth-South-East three miles, and lies in latitude 16 degrees 25 minutesSouth and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East being the farthest pointwe determined towards the centre of the continent. The extreme positionreached in that direction by Lieutenant Lushington of Lieutenant Grey'sexpedition, bears from this point, North 64 degrees East fifty miles. Thus terminated our explorations in Collier Bay, and although we had notthe good fortune to find it the outlet of some large opening leading intothe interior, still we succeeded in setting at rest the speculation, sucha deep indentation of the coastline had hitherto afforded, and increasedour geographical knowledge of this part of the continent 35 miles. 

RETURN OF THE BOATS. 

In the afternoon we commenced our return to Port George the Fourth, fromwhich we were then distant about 80 miles; after delaying to examine twoislands lying North by East four miles from the inlet, of slateformation, we reached a narrow point six miles further down the bay, intime to save a true bearing from the sun's amplitude. We were surprisedto find this point also composed of the same kind of grey slate. Theislands we examined differed from those of the same formation in King'sSound, having steep precipitous sides to the North-West instead of to theSouth-East. As it was by this time nightfall we did not proceed farther. 

April 12. 

Towards the morning there was a South-East breeze which brought thethermometer down to 76 degrees; it generally ranged between 80 and 96degrees. 

RAFT POINT. 

The large bay discovered on our way to the southward now became the pointof interest, and as daylight closed in the boats were secured in a smallsandy cove, just within its southern point, where there were severalnative rafts, constructed precisely in the same manner as those seen inKing's Sound, from which circumstance we called the place Raft Point. Immediately over it was the high land first seen in coming down the bay;huge masses were rent from its lofty frowning crags, on which the rays ofthe setting sun produced the most grotesque figures. A beautiful streamof water fell into the sea, in leaping cascades, half a mile inside thecove. Several rock kangaroos were seen on the heights; and after securingobservations with some early stars, for latitude, which placed Raft Pointin 16 degrees 4 minutes South, we tried an experiment to get a shot atthe kangaroos, by setting fire to the grass and small wood growing at thebase, and in the interstices of the rocks. 

A CONFLAGRATION. 

This part of the country being very dry, a fire was soon kindled, and ina few minutes the cliffs resounded with the noise of the flames, as theydarted fiercely upwards, revealing their riven sides, and occasionallybursting out behind large masses of strange figured rocks to the noslight risk of our sportsmen, who were perched upon them. Seabirds, frightened from their resting places, screamed fearfully, and the dismalhowl of the wild dog, equally alarmed, sometimes fell on the ear amidstthe roaring of the dangerous element, which in the intense darkness ofthe night we could not but admire. Whilst gazing on this wild scene, Icould not help speculating on the probable cause the natives would assignfor this great conflagration; the bright glare of which must haveextended over several miles of country, perhaps alarming and doubtlesscausing deep consultation amongst the wise men of their tribes. It mayalso have taxed their power of invention, as they never use large firesin the night, except in wild stormy weather, when the creaking trees, andmoaning wind, give them a dread of a visit from the Evil Spirit. 

April 13. 

Being anxious to examine the range over the cove, I desired Mr. Helpmanto explore the North-East corner of this large bay, and the main lyingbehind the islands, fronting the coast to the northward of it. Weaccordingly moved off on our several occupations at an early hour. Aftermuch difficulty Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself found ourselves on a tablelandof sandstone formation, elevated by measurement 900 feet above the sealevel, and by far the highest land yet noticed on this part of thecontinent; the prospect here was very cheerless; similar but lower rangesmet the eye in every direction towards the interior, those overlookingthe eastern shore of the bay, were from 6 to 700 feet high. Thereappeared to be a large island in its North-East corner, which fell backabout 10 miles, and like many other parts of it was lined with a growthof mangroves. A string of smaller islands extended three miles from thenorth point, leaving an entrance only two miles wide. A sandstone ridgesimilar to that on which we stood, rose abruptly from the north point, but of less elevation. I was not a little surprised to find thatLieutenant Grey had seen land from 2 to 3000 feet high, only about 30miles from the height on which we stood, but as he had not the means ofmeasuring these great elevations, and as Captain King, who was within 20miles of the high land alluded to, does not notice it, yet mentions somehills from 3 to 400 feet high, 15 miles further to the North-East, I aminduced to believe that Lieutenant Grey may have over-estimated theheight of the land he saw. *

(*Footnote. Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, which are not nine hundredfeet high, are the first points of the continent that meet the eye fromseaward. )

DOUBTFUL BAY. 

From subsequent information, I called this Doubtful Bay; the tide raninto it at the rate of from 1 to 3 knots, but the clear appearance of thewater, and entire absence of driftwood, afforded strong grounds forsupposing that it did not receive the waters of any river. Leaving RaftPoint, we crossed over to the islands on the opposite side, for a fewangles on their southern extreme, and afterwards made the best of our wayto Freshwater Cove. The day had, however, closed in long before arrivingthere, and in the extreme darkness of the night the Cove was difficult tofind. Indeed my companions could not believe we were there until one ofthe men returned with a keg of water from the stream in the head of it. 

MR. HELPMAN'S REPORT. 

Mr. Helpman joined us at sunset, and gave the following report of hisproceedings: "On leaving the cove at Raft Point, we passed along thesouth shore for two miles, and landed on a point that afforded a mostcommanding view of the bay, and the openings in its North-East corner, which appeared to be formed by a large island lying near the shore. Thissupposition afterwards proved to be correct, on landing at a pointfronting its western extreme, from whence I was enabled to trace theshore round the North-East corner of the bay, till I identified it as thesame we had seen on the eastern side of the island from the station justleft. From the still and discoloured state of the water, I felt satisfiedthere was no opening in the North-East corner of this bay. I am, however, willing to admit it may have been more satisfactory to others if therehad been sufficient time at my disposal to have actually gone round theisland. We now hastened off to examine the mainland, lying behind a chainof islands to the northward, where we also failed to discover anopening. "

MOUTH OF THE GLENELG. 

As this account of Mr. Helpman's coincided with the opinion I had formedof the other parts of the coast, I was induced at that time to come tothe conclusion that the river Glenelg which I found Lieutenants Grey andLushington had discovered, on my return to the ship, did not communicatewith the sea in this neighbourhood, as Lieutenant Grey had supposed, buttook a South-West direction, flanking Collier Bay, and terminating in themangrove openings on the eastern shore of Stokes' Bay in King's Sound. Myopinion was strengthened by Lieutenant Lushington having seen from hisfurthest position (which has already been given) a very high bluff pointto the southward, distant 6 or 7 miles, and a line of cliffs under whichhe conceived that an opening of the sea or a river may run. Furtherexperience has convinced me of the great difficulty attending thediscovery of the mouths of rivers in Australia, and as Mr. Helpman didnot actually visit the North-East corner of Doubtful Bay (named inconsequence) I am inclined to believe there is a possibility of the mouthof the Glenelg still being found there. 

April 14. 

We were on our way to Point Hall before the eastern hills had receivedtheir golden hue from the rays of the rising sun, and landed to ascendthe summit of that headland from the bay, on its South-East side, whichproved to be a safe anchorage, except with South-West winds, having asmall islet in its centre. We ascended the height on the lee side, and asthe sun was now approaching the zenith the heat became very oppressive;but the air was quite perfumed with the rich fragrance of different gums. This warm aromatic odour we always experienced in a slighter degree onfirst landing in North-western Australia. 

REMARKABLE TREE. 

I noticed a tree quite new to me, it was of stunted growth, bearing afruit resembling a small russet apple, which hung in clusters at theextremity of small branches; the skin was rough, covering a pulp that hadan acid flavour, inside of which was a large stone, and I observed awhite fluid exuded from the branches when broken. Although this wasalmost a solitary tree, I have since learnt it grows in the southernparts of the continent. As the woodcut and description given in page 82, Volume 1 of Sir Thomas Mitchell's work on Australia, is almost identicalwith this fruit, it must be indigenous to a great extent of country, since Sir Thomas Mitchell found it in latitude 29 degrees 50 minutesSouth whilst by us it was discovered in 15 degrees 40 minutes South. Wedid not observe any other change in the vegetation on this point; ofbirds we saw but few, chiefly parrots, some of which we shot. A coastrange of brown grassy hills prevented our seeing anything of theinterior. To seaward there was neither islet nor reef to interrupt theblue surface of water that bounded our view in the far north-west. 

Descending we embarked from a cove on the North-East side, where theboats had been ordered to meet us; between this and one on the oppositeside there was only a narrow neck of low land. It is singular that weshould not have seen any natives, or even traces of them anywhereexcepting at Raft Point, during the whole of this cruise. 

THE SLATE ISLES. 

Pursuing our northerly course, we reached a small group of islands, namedfrom their formation, Slate Isles. Finding that all the material requiredhere for the chart could not be collected this evening, I desired Mr. Helpman to go on to Brecknock harbour, to sound and examine its southernshore the next morning, whilst Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself remained tocomplete the survey hereabouts. 

April 15. 

We were on the top of the northern Slate Island early; a small islet witha reef off its northern extreme, bore north a mile and a half, and a lowsandy isle, West 1/4 North about 15 miles; this was a most unwelcomediscovery, as it lay in the track of vessels approaching BrecknockHarbour, and which Captain King must have passed very close to in thenight without being aware of it. We were fortunate in being able tointersect our lines to the extremes of all the islands forming the northside of Camden Sound from this station, which rendered it one of greatimportance. Of the interior we saw even less than from Point Hall, andthe prospect if possible was more cheerless. 

Our again meeting rocks of transition origin, led us to infer that thesoil in the neighbourhood was of a better quality, as the decompositionof rocks of this class furnishes a much more fertile soil than sandstoneof recent formation. 

Leaving the Slate Islands, we reached Entrance Isle, in BrecknockHarbour, in time to secure observations for the rates of thechronometers, which we found had been performing admirably; they placedthe sandy bay on the east side of Entrance Isle, in longitude 124 degrees30 minutes East; the latitude as before given, 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutesSouth. 

FERTILE COUNTRY. 

At this place Mr. Helpman rejoined us, having completed the examinationof the south shore of the harbour; from a high hill over it he discoveredsome fine country, bearing East-South-East about eight miles. In speakingof it, he says, "I was invited to the top of this hill by the certaintyof a good view of the interior over the low land forming thesouth-eastern shore of the harbour, and most amply was I repaid for thetoil of ascending it, by feasting my eyes on a most luxuriantwell-watered country, lying at the eastern foot of a remarkable peak, visible from Port George the Fourth. To the North-East there lay a rangeof hills, * apparently of no great elevation. 

(*Footnote. Macdonald Range of Lieutenant Grey, considered by him 1400feet high. )

BRECKNOCK HARBOUR. 

Part of this rich land extended to within five miles of the south-easternpart of Brecknock Harbour. " The proximity of such fertile land to thisfine port was of great importance, and induced us to consider it a greataddition to our discoveries in north-western Australia. Under thisimpression, I trust the following brief description of it may not bewithout its value in the eyes of some of my readers. Brecknock Harbour issix miles deep, extending gradually from a width of one and three quartermiles at the entrance to five at the head, and has a depth of watervarying from five to seven fathoms, with a soft muddy bottom. The fewobservations on the tides our short visit afforded, make the time ofhigh-water, on full and change day, about half an hour before noon, whenthe rise is nearly thirty feet, and the strength of stream in theentrance nearly two knots. 

LIEUTENANT GREY. 

April 16. 

Although very anxious to learn if they had in the ship heard anything ofLieutenant Grey's party, still I did not like to break through my usualrule of indulging in a thorough cleansing of men and boats, before makingour appearance on board, we therefore did not make an early start. Inclearing Roger Strait, we heard the cry of a native, who was seen withthe aid of a spy-glass, perched on a distant cliff, watching ourmovements. I scarcely believed it possible to have heard his shrill voiceso far. We reached the ship, lying in Port George the Fourth, early inthe afternoon, and found on board a most welcome addition to our littleparty, in the person of Lieutenant Grey. I met him again, with feelingsof the greatest satisfaction; for though none were, perhaps, fully awareof it, a feeling of despondency as to the fate of himself and hiscompanions, had more than once occurred to me, which each day's delaymuch increased, and which this agreeable rencounter at once effectuallyremoved. Poor fellow! gaunt misery had worn him to the bone; and Ibelieve, that in any other part of the world, not myself alone, butLieutenant Grey's most intimate friends, would have stared at him withoutthe least approach to recognition. Badly wounded, and half starved, hedid, indeed, present a melancholy contrast to the vigorous and determinedenthusiast we had parted from a few months before at the Cape, to whomdanger seemed to have a charm, distinct from success. 

No sooner had we ascertained the safety of the rest of the party, than, as might be supposed, we fell into a long and animated conversation uponthe success of the expedition. They had discovered a river, called bythem the Glenelg, and a tract of fine country, which, from LieutenantGrey's description, I instantly recognised as being the same Mr. Helpmanhad seen from Brecknock Harbour. 

A spot, sixty miles in a South-South-East direction from Hanover Bay, indicates their furthest distance towards the interior. The rugged natureof the country in the neighbourhood of this coast, and its vast distancefrom the interior, from whence it is further removed than any other partof the continent, justify the expression of an opinion that this was anill-chosen spot for the debarkation of an expedition for inland research;though unquestionably its proximity to our East Indian possessions, wouldmake it, if suitable in other respects, a most valuable spot forcolonization. I shall always regret that Lieutenant Grey and hiscompanions had not the advantage of starting from the Fitzroy, orexploring yet further the unknown course of the Victoria, by which I amnow convinced, a most successful attempt to reach the interior might bemade. 

Alas! while we cannot but regret the prodigal sacrifices of health andenergy made to acquire such a limited knowledge of a part of thecontinent, hitherto utterly unknown, we must not forget to do justice tothe perseverance which opposing obstacles could defeat, but not daunt;and in what it did accomplish, furnished additional motives to renewedexertion, and useful suggestions by which more fortunate followers mayreap the success deserved by, though denied, to the first adventurers. 

The worn and haggard aspect of Lieutenant Grey and all his companions, spoke of itself how severe had been the hardships they were called on toendure: I need not say that their wants were relieved with the utmosteagerness of frank hospitality, and that their tales of hair-breadthescapes and moving accidents awoke all ears, and stirred in every heart. To meet with a countryman in a foreign land, is of itself generally anagreeable incident: the tones of one's native language, or thereminiscences of one's earlier and happier years, which such a meetingrecalls, are sure to bestow upon it a pleasure of its own. What was itthen to meet a former fellow voyager, and a friend? To meet him afteralmost despairing of his safety? and to meet him fresh from a perilousand partially successful attempt to penetrate into the same unknown andmysterious country, a further and more perfect acquaintance with whichwas a prime object of my own personal ambition, no less than of publicduty with all engaged in our present adventure? Those who have known thecommunion of sentiment and interest, which it is the tendency of onecommon purpose to create among all by whom that purpose is shared, canmost readily and most perfectly understand with what deep and mutualinterest Lieutenant Grey and myself heard and recounted all that each haddone since our parting at the Cape. 

Several anecdotes of his adventures confirmed my own experience, and addweight to the opinions I have before expressed. From his description ofthe tribes his party had encountered, he must have been among a peoplemore advanced in civilization than any we had hitherto seen upon thiscoast. He found several curious figures, * images, and drawings, generallyin colours, upon the sides of caves in the sandstone rock, which, notwithstanding their rude style, yet evince a greater degree ofadvancement and intelligence than we have been able to find any tracesof: at the same time it must be remembered that no certain dateabsolutely connects these works with the present generation: the drynessof the natural walls upon which they are executed, and the absence of anyatmospheric moisture may have, and may yet preserve them for anindefinite period, and their history read aright, may testify not thepresent condition of the Australian School of Design, but the perfectionwhich it had formerly attained. 

(*Footnote. Illustrated in Lieutenant Grey's first Volume. )

LIGHT-COLOURED NATIVES. 

Lieutenant Grey too, like ourselves, had seen certain individuals incompany with the natives much lighter in colour, and widely differing infigure and physiognomy from the savages by whom they were surrounded; andwas inclined to believe that they are descended from Dutch sailors, whoat different times, suffering shipwreck upon the coast, have intermarriedwith its native inhabitants: but as no authentic records can be producedto prove that this portion of the coast was ever visited by Dutchnavigators at all, I am still more disposed to believe that these lightercoloured people are Malays, captured from the Trepang fishers, or perhapsvoluntarily associating with the Australian, as we know that theAustralian not unfrequently abandons his country, and his mode of life, to visit the Indian Archipelago with them. 

Before pursuing any further the train of speculation in which my thoughtsnaturally enough arranged themselves, owing to this meeting withLieutenant Grey, it may be as well to advert to the circumstances underwhich he and his party were found by Captain Wickham. It seems that onmoving into Port George the Fourth, the ship's guns were fired in orderto apprize the wanderers, if within hearing, that friends and aid were athand. These signals were heard on board the Lynher, and were at oncerightly understood to denote the presence of the Beagle. At that time, however, the master of the Lynher--the schooner which Lieutenant Grey hadchartered at the Cape, was himself in no small perplexity as to the fateof those he had transported to this lonely coast; and was now growingexceedingly anxious at their non-appearance. 

The next morning, the 9th, Captain Wickham started in the yawl forHanover Bay, in order to prosecute the search at the point where he knewLieutenant Grey's depot was to be established, and on rounding theheadland the first welcome object that met his eye was the schooner atanchor. Captain Wickham learnt from Mr. Browse the master, that theperiod for which the schooner was chartered having expired, he was onlywaiting the return of the expedition from motives of humanity. Thefurther care of Lieutenant Grey and his comrades was at once undertakenby Captain Wickham, by whom it was determined, owing to the shortness ofprovisions on board the Beagle, to proceed to Timor on the return of theboats, in the hope of being able to revictual there, leaving someconspicuous record of his recent visit, with hidden letters declaratoryof his proceedings, and promising his speedy return. A party wasimmediately despatched on shore, and upon the face of the sandstone cliffthey painted in characters of gigantic proportion, Beagle Observatory. Letters South-East 52 paces. Of necessity compelled to wait for theboats, Captain Wickham returned to the Beagle. 

CAPTAIN WICKHAM'S MEETING WITH LIEUTENANT GREY. 

On the morning of the 15th, Lieutenant Grey, accompanied by two of hisparty, made his appearance upon the shores of Hanover Bay, after a twelveweeks wander in the interior; during which, great hardships, fatigue, andperil had been undergone, and much curious and valuable informationcollected. Hearing of the proximity of the Beagle, he lost not a moment, but hastened to assure Captain Wickham that the whole party was safe, andspent the evening of the 15th--that previous to my return--among thosewho sympathized with his sufferings, and heartily welcomed him once moreon board. After the first greetings had been exchanged between us, Lieutenant Grey professed the utmost anxiety to hear whether, during ourlate excursion in the boats, we had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg, the river first seen by him on the 2nd of March. I was of coursecompelled to inform him that we had found no trace of any river, althoughthe coast from Port George the Fourth to the bottom of Collier Bay, anextent of nearly one hundred miles, had been examined, and with theexception I have already noticed, too closely to admit of mistake. 

AN EVENING WITH LIEUTENANT GREY. 

The next afternoon I followed Lieutenant Grey round to Hanover Bay, distant twelve miles from the Beagle's anchorage. On the passage Inoticed that the remarkable bluff, spoken of by Captain King, had beenomitted in the charts, and a low rocky point marked in its place. It wasafter sunset when we reached the schooner in Hanover Bay; the greaterpart of the night was devoted to an examination of Lieutenant Grey'splans of his expedition, and the drawings with which various events in ithad been illustrated. All these were executed with a finished carefulnessone could not have expected to find in works carried on in the bush, andunder such varied circumstances of distraction and anxiety as hadfollowed Lieutenant Grey's footsteps: though terribly worn and ill, ouropportune arrival, and the feeling that he was among those who couldappreciate his exertions, seemed already to operate in his recovery. Uponan old and tattered chart, that had indeed done the state some service, we attempted to settle the probable course of the Glenelg, the knottyquestion held us for some hours in hot debate; but as in a previousparagraph, I have rendered my more deliberate opinions, I need not hererecount the varied topics discussed during that memorable evening: but itmay be readily imagined with how swift a flight one hour followedanother, while I listened with eager impatience to Lieutenant Grey'saccount of a country and people till now unknown even to Englishenterprise. He appears to have seen the same kind of grape-like fruit*that we observed in King's Sound. 

(*Footnote. Grey's Australia Volume 1 page 211. )

THE ENCAMPMENT. 

I took the boat in the afternoon at high-water to proceed to theencampment, which we were then able to approach within a quarter of amile. It was situated in the depth of a creek, into which a clear andsparkling stream of fresh water poured its abundance: the shore wasformed of enormous granite boulders, which rendered it hardly accessibleexcept at high-water; and the red sandstone platform which is here thenature of the coast, was abruptly intersected by one of those singularvalleys which give so marked and so distinctive a characteristic toAustralian geology. The separated cliffs approach to within about aquarter of a mile of each other, and then--still preserving theirprecipitous form--recede some three miles inland, in a southerlydirection, and there rejoining, make any passage from Walker's Valley* tothe interior a barely practicable feat. 

(*Footnote. So named by Lieutenant Grey to commemorate the servicesrendered by the surgeon of his party in finding a road from it to theinterjacent country. )

TIMOR PONIES. 

The encampment consisted of a few roofless huts, placed irregularly upona carpet of rich grass, whereon six Timor ponies were recruiting afterthe fatigues of a journey in which they appeared to have borne their fullshare of privation and danger. Their marketable value was indeed butsmall, and Lieutenant Grey had, therefore, determined to leave thembehind in the unrestrained enjoyment of their natural freedom. 

My visit was made after the encampment had been finally abandoned, andthe thought that a little spot once tenanted by civilized man was aboutto be yielded to that dreary solitude from which for a while he hadrescued it, made the pilgrimage a melancholy one. The scene itself was instrict keeping with such thoughts--the rugged and lofty cliffs whichfrown down upon the valley--the flitting shadows of the watchful eaglessoaring far over my head--and the hoarse murmurs of the tide among therocky masses on the beach--ail heightened the effects of a pictureengraven on my memory too deeply for time itself to efface. 

While the men were preparing for embarkation I strolled with LieutenantLushington up the valley, a little beyond the late encampment: the Timorponies were busily engaged upon the fresh grass; near the banks of abeautiful pool in which we both enjoyed a freshwater bath, I noticed asmall coconut tree, and some other plants, which he and his companionshad benevolently endeavoured to naturalize here: they seemed healthyenough, but I should fear the rank luxuriance of surrounding andindigenous vegetation will render the ultimate well-doing of thestrangers exceedingly doubtful. Assisted by our boats the whole partyembarked in the early part of the afternoon, and appeared highlydelighted to find themselves again on board the schooner. I was muchimpressed with the emphatic manner in which Lieutenant Lushington bid theshore a hearty farewell. The same evening the Lynher was moved round toPort George the Fourth--thus affording us an opportunity of welcoming allour former fellow-voyagers once more on board the Beagle; where we spentone of those delightful evenings, known only to those who have been longseparated from the rest of the world. 

LEAVE PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH. 

On the 9th we left Port George the Fourth on our return to Swan River, incompany with the Lynher, in which Lieutenant Grey and his party hadarranged to proceed to the Mauritius. A finer port than this, in somerespects, can hardly be imagined. Like Hanover Bay, over which, however, it possesses the advantage of an easier access from the sea, it affordssafe anchorage, abundance of fresh water, plenty of fuel, and a finebeach for the seine: but the numerous islands and reefs which skirt thiscoast greatly reduce the value of both these harbours. The Master of theLynher told me of certain tidal phenomena remarked by him during hisprotracted visit to Hanover Bay: he had noticed that the highest tidesalways occurred on the fourth day after the full or change of the moon, and that they then attained a maximum height of twenty-five feet; whileduring the neaps the difference between high and low-water sometimes didnot exceed twenty-four inches!

During the short time that we were in this neighbourhood, the prevailingwinds were from South-East and to East from after midnight till noon, andfrom West to North until midnight. Our progress through the day was butslow; the wind light and most provokingly foul at West-North-West. 

ISOLATED ROCK. 

While standing towards a small island bearing North and by West five anda half miles from Point Adieu, we discovered a single rock withapparently deep water all around it, and just awash at low-water. It boreNorth-West and by West three-quarters of a mile from this island, whichresembles Red Island, and Captain King's group of the Rocky Islands, inthat calcined-like appearance which has by turns given them red and brownfor a distinct appellation. In the afternoon we saw the sandbank laiddown in Captain King's chart; it appeared a white rocky islet. The nightwas spent beating to the westward, between it and Red Island, against alight breeze. 

April 20. 

At daylight, whilst standing to the South-West the water shoaled rapidlythough regularly from 20 to 6 fathoms, we then tacked, Red Island bearingSouth-East one mile and a quarter; in standing out (north) the waterdeepened suddenly and almost immediately to 15 fathoms. I imagine thisshoal to be a continuation of one laid down by Captain King, extendingtwo miles south from Red Island: passing the latter on our way to PortGeorge the Fourth we had 28 to 30 fathoms, two and a half miles from itsNorth-West side. 

April 21. 

We continued to make but little progress to the westward, scarcelyaveraging more than a mile per hour: the soundings indicating that wewere still on the coral ledge that skirts the whole of this coast, northward of Cape Leveque; on the raised parts of which are numerousreefs of an irregular size and almost invariably trending from West toNorth-West. The number of these low coral reefs already known, and theprobable number of those yet undiscovered, make this rather a dangeroussea, and must have a tendency to lessen the value of the North-West coastof Australia for purposes of forming settlements. In the afternoon we sawagain the reef discovered and named after the Beagle. SteeringWest-North-West we passed four miles from its northern side in soundingsvarying from 41 to 47 fathoms. 

REMARKABLE RIPPLINGS. 

April 23. 

Towards the close of this day we passed through a line of very remarkableripplings, extending in a north and south direction, which we knewindicated some great inequality in the bottom, but whether from deep toshoal water was a matter of some anxiety; therefore, with leadsmen in thechains and the men at their stations for working ship, we glided intothis streak of agitated water, where plunging once or twice she againpassed into the silent deep. We sounded ineffectually with 86 fathoms inthe ripplings; for some time before the soundings had been regular 52 and55 fathoms fine sand, and four miles beyond it we had 146 fathoms, butdid not succeed afterwards in reaching the bottom with 200 fathoms. Thisline of disturbed water, therefore, marks the edge of the bank ofsoundings fronting this part of the coast, from which the nearest point, Cape Leveque, bore South-East 195 miles. 

PART FROM THE LYNHER. 

The Lynher having to pursue a more westerly course, we were of necessity, though reluctantly, obliged to part company this evening: the fewevenings we passed together at sea were rendered very pleasant andamusing by the crews singing to each other as the vessels, side by side, slipped stealthily through the moonlit waters. 

April 24. 

Still pursuing a West-South-West course, at the slow rate of forty milesdaily, our position at noon was latitude 15 degrees 40 minutes Southlongitude 120 degrees 41 minutes East. During the day we passed withinfifteen miles of the Lively's reef, and from the numbers of terns andother small seabirds, seen for the last three days, there can be littledoubt of its whereabouts being known, and that during that time we hadbeen in the neighbourhood of other reefs still undiscovered. 

April 27. 

We experienced the long rolling swell of the Southern Ocean, which, aswell as our reckoning, informed us we were rounding North-West Cape; atthe same time we began to feel a steady breeze from the South-East andthe northerly current which there prevails. As we were now approachingthe usual track of vessels bound from Australia to India, we were notunprepared for the somewhat unusual sight of a strange sail: an objectalways of some little interest, but which becomes quite an event to thosewhose duty leads them into the less frequented portions of the deep. 

THE TRYAL ROCKS. 

The increasing trade now carried on between Sydney and the gorgeous East, has converted the dividing sea into a beaten track; and as no furtherevidence has been brought forward to confirm the reported existence ofthe Tryal Rocks, asserted to lie directly in the course steered byvessels making this passage, I cannot but adhere to Captain King'sopinion, that Tremouille Island and its outlying reefs, situated in thesame latitude as that in which the Tryal Rocks are supposed to lie, haveoriginated the mistake;* one, be it observed, of longitude, in whichparticular the accounts of earlier navigators must always be receivedwith caution. 

(*Footnote. Subsequent explorations have proved this to be the case. )

ANECDOTES OF MIAGO. 

While our return to Swan River was thus baffled and delayed by the longand almost unbroken continuance of foul winds, it afforded some diversionto watch the countenance and conduct of Miago, who was as anxious asanyone on board for the sight of his native land. He would stand gazingsteadily and in silence over the sea, and then sometimes, perceiving thatI watched him, say to me, "Miago sing, by and by northern men wind jumpup:" then would he station himself for hours at the lee-gangway, andchant to some imaginary deity an incantation or prayer to change theopposing wind. I could never rightly learn to whom this rude melody wasaddressed; for if anyone approached him near enough to overhear thewords, he became at once silent; but there was a mournful and patheticair running through the strain, that rendered it by no means unpleasing;though doubtless it owed much of its effect to the concomitantcircumstances. The rude savage--separated from all his former companions, made at once an intimate and familiar witness of some of the wonders ofcivilization, carried by his new comrades to their very country, andbrought face to face with his traditionary foes, the dreaded northernmen, and now returning to recount to his yet ruder brethren the wondershe had witnessed--could not fail to interest the least imaginative. 

Yet Miago had a decided and most inexplicable advantage over all onboard, and that in a matter especially relating to the science ofnavigation: he could indicate at once and correctly the exact directionof our wished-for harbour, when neither sun nor stars were shining toassist him. He was tried frequently, and under very varyingcircumstances, but strange as it may seem, he was invariably right. Thisfaculty--though somewhat analogous to one I have heard ascribed to thenatives of North America--had very much surprised me when exercised onshore, but at sea, out of the sight of land, it seemed beyond belief, asassuredly it is beyond explanation: but I have sometimes thought thatsome such power must have been possessed by those adventurous seamen who, long before the discovery of the compass, ventured upon distant andhazardous voyages. 

I used sometimes, as we approached the land of his nativity, to questionhim upon the account he intended to give his friends of the scenes he hadwitnessed, and I was quite astonished at the accuracy with which heremembered the various places we had visited during the voyage: he seemedto have carried the ship's track in his memory with the most carefulaccuracy. His description of the ship's sailing and anchoring were mostamusing: he used to say, "Ship walk--walk--all night--hard walk--then byand by, anchor tumble down. " His manner of describing his interviews withthe "wicked northern men, " was most graphic. His countenance and figurebecame at once instinct with animation and energy, and no doubt he wasthen influenced by feelings of baffled hatred and revenge, from havingfailed in his much-vaunted determination to carry off in triumph one oftheir gins. I would sometimes amuse myself by asking him how he was toexcuse himself to his friends for having failed in the premised exploit, but the subject was evidently a very unpleasant one, and he was alwaysanxious to escape from it. 

In spite of all Miago's evocations for a change of wind we did not seeRottnest Island before the morning of the 25th. The ship's track on thechart after passing the North-West Cape, resembled the figure seven, thetail pointing towards the north. We passed along the south side ofRottnest, and by keeping its south-western extreme shut in with the southpoint, cleared the northern end of the foul ground extendingNorth-North-West from a cluster of high rocks called the Stragglers. 

RETURN TO SWAN RIVER. 

As Gage Road was not considered safe at this time of the year, the shipwas taken into Owen's anchorage under the guidance of Mr. Usborne. Wefirst steered for the Mew Stone, bearing south, until the leading markscould be made out; they are the western of two flat rocks lying close offthe west side of Carnac Island and a large white sand patch on the northside of Garden Island. The rock must be kept its own breadth open to theeastward of the highest part of the patch; these marks lead over a sortof bar or ridge of sand in 3 and 3 1/2 fathoms; when the water deepenedto 5 and 7 fathoms, the course was then changed to East-South-East for apatch of low cliffs about two miles south of Fremantle, which brought usup to Owen's anchorage in 7 and 8 fathoms, passing between Success andPalmelia Banks. 

Thus concluded our first cruise on this almost hitherto unknown part ofthe continent; and looking at its results we had every reason to feelsatisfied, having appended 300 miles of new land to our geographicalstore, and succeeded in an object of paramount interest in this country, the discovery of a river. Besides the nautical information obtained, someadditions were made to the secondary objects of the voyage, by increasingour knowledge of the natural history and indigenous productions ofNorth-western Australia. 

CHANGES OF TEMPERATURE. 

During the period of our visit we had a temperature varying from 76 to125 degrees; the weather generally fine, with moderate south-easterlywinds, and occasionally heavy squalls from the eastward, excepting in themonth of February and part of March, when we experienced heavy falls ofrain, accompanied by fresh westerly winds. But as these changes havealready been noticed in the diary, it is needless to enter into furtherdetail about them here. 

CHAPTER 1. 8. SWAN RIVER TO SYDNEY. 

Miago's reception by his countrymen. Whale Fishery. Strange ideas entertained by Natives respecting the first Settlers. Neglected state of the Colony. Test security of Owen's Anchorage. Weather. Celebration of the Anniversary of the Colony. Friendly meeting between different Tribes. Native beggars. Personal vanity of a Native. Visit York. Description of Country. Site of York. Scenery in its neighbourhood. Disappointment experienced. Sail from Swan River. Hospitality of Colonists during our stay. Aurora Australis. Gale off Cape Leeuwen. Stormy passage. Ship on a lee shore. South-west Cape of Tasmania. Bruny Island Lighthouse. Arrive at Hobart. Mount Wellington. Kangaroo Hunt. White Kangaroo. Civility from the Governor. Travertine Limestone. Leave Hobart. Singular Current. Appearance of Land in the neighbourhood of Sydney. Position of Lighthouse. Entrance and first view of Port Jackson. Scenery on passing up the Harbour. Meet the Expedition bound to Port Essington. Apparent increase of Sydney. Cause of Decline. Expedition sails for Port Essington. Illawarra. Botany Bay. La Perouse's Monument. Aborigines. Meet Captain King. Appearance of Land near Sydney. 

MIAGO'S RECEPTION BY HIS COUNTRYMEN. 

We were considerably amused with the consequential air Miago assumedtowards his countrymen on our arrival, which afforded us a notuninstructive instance of the prevalence of the ordinary infirmities ofour common human nature, whether of pride or vanity, universally to bemet with both in the civilised man and the uncultivated savage. Hedeclared that he would not land until they first came off to wait on him. Decorated with an old full-dress Lieutenant's coat, white trousers, and acap with a tall feather, he looked upon himself as a most exaltedpersonage, and for the whole of the first day remained on board, impatiently, but in vain prying into each boat that left the shore forthe dusky forms of some of his quondam friends. His pride however couldnot long withstand the desire of display; yielding to the impulse ofvanity, he, early the following morning, took his departure from theship. Those who witnessed the meeting described it as cool on both sides, arising on the part of his friends from jealousy; they perhaps judgingfrom the nature of his costume, that he had abandoned his bush life. Bethat as it may, the reception tended greatly to lower the pride of ourhero; who through generosity (expending all his money to purchase thembread) or from a fear of being treacherously speared, soon convinced hisformer associates how desirous he was of regaining their confidence. Hedid not, however, participate in the revelry then going on amongst thenatives at Fremantle, where, at this period of the year, they assemble ingreat numbers to feast on the whales that are brought in by the boats ofa whaling establishment--which I cannot allude to without expressing anopinion that this fishery, if properly managed and free from Americanencroachments, would become one of the most important branches ofindustry. 

During the time that Miago was on board we took great pains to wean himfrom his natural propensity for the savage life by instilling suchinformation as his untutored mind was capable of receiving, and from hisoften-expressed resolutions we were led to hope a cure had been effected;great was our disappointment then on finding that in less than afortnight after our arrival, he had resumed his original wildness, andwas again to be numbered amongst the native inhabitants of the bush. Tous he had been the source of great mirth, by the absurd anecdotes hesometimes related about his countrymen. His account of their conjecturesrespecting the arrival of the first settlers may amuse the reader; hesaid, "the ships were supposed to be trees, and the cattle large dogs(the only animal besides the kangaroo known to them) whose size and hornsexcited such alarm, that one which strayed into the bush being met by aparty of natives made them climb up the nearest trees in the greatestterror. "

STATE OF THE COLONY. 

It may give some definite idea of the neglected state of this infantcolony, to mention that during the entire period of our absence--a spaceof six months--there had been but one arrival there, and that not fromEngland. The solitary visitor was H. M. S. Pelorus from the Indian station. The want of communication with the mother country was beginning to befelt severely, and in matters of graver moment than mere news. Manynecessary articles of home manufacture or importation, scarcely valuedtill wanted, were now becoming almost unattainable: one familiar instancewill illustrate at once how this state of things presses upon the comfortof the colonists; the price of yellow soap had risen to four shillingsper pound!

OWEN'S ANCHORAGE. 

The usual winter anchorage in Cockburn Sound, being seven miles from thetown of Fremantle, the colonists were naturally very anxious to seetested the equal security of one which we had chosen within half thatdistance. The point was fairly tried, and very satisfactorily determinedduring the heavy weather which we experienced on the 31st of March, and11th of June, which did not raise more sea than a boat at anchor couldhave ridden out with safety. These gales lasted about forty-eight hourseach, commencing at North by West and gradually blowing themselves out atWest-South-West. In each instance a heavy bank of clouds in thenorth-west gave us a day's notice of their approach. The indications ofthe barometer were less decisive; its maximum was 29. 3. 

The weather in the interval between these gales was wet and unsettled;but afterwards, until our departure, it continued remarkably fine with anaverage temperature of 60 degrees. 

The winds at this season prevail from the land, the seabreezes being bothlight and very irregular. 

ANNIVERSARY OF THE COLONY. 

We were just in time to share in the annual festivities with which theinhabitants celebrate the formation of the colony. Horseracing, and manyother old English sports showed that the colonists still retain thetastes and habits of home. Some of the aborigines took part in theamusements of the day with evident enjoyment: and we were surprised tofind that in throwing the spear they were excelled by an Englishcompetitor. We hardly know how to reconcile this fact with our ownfavourite theories upon the perfection of the savage in the few exercisesof skill to which he devotes his attention, and were obliged to takerefuge in the inadequate suggestion that the wild man requires a greaterdegree of excitement than his more civilised competitor, to bring out, orcall into action, all the resources of his art. Among the nativesassembled were a small party from King George's Sound: they had come toPerth, bearing despatches from that place. The good understanding whichappeared to exist between them and their fellow-countrymen in thisdistrict, led me to believe that by bringing different tribes morefrequently together, under similar happy auspices to those which convenedthe meeting of to-day, much might be done to qualify the eager and deadlyhatred in which they are too prone to indulge. 

The natives in the town of Perth are most notorious beggars: the softersex ply this easy craft even more indefatigably than the men. Theirflattering solicitations and undeniable importunity seldom altogetherfail of success, and "quibra (i. E. Ship) man, " after the assurance thathe is a "very pretty gentleman, " must perforce yield to the solicitation"tickpence give it um me. "

There was one amongst them, who from some accident had lost several ofhis toes. When in conversation, if he fancied any person was observinghis foot, he would immediately endeavour to conceal the part that wasthus disfigured by burying it in the sand. Another instance, exemplifyinghow prevalent is the frailty of vanity in the heart of man in hisprimitive condition. 

VISIT YORK. 

As a little time was required to give the ship a slight refit and thecrew some relaxation, it afforded an opportunity of visiting York, situated about sixty miles east from Perth, and at that extremity of thecolony. Accordingly, one murky afternoon a small party of us were wendingour way over the Darling Range. Long after dark the welcome bark of dogsrang through the forest in the still dark night, assuring us that shelterwas at hand, and we soon found ourselves before a large fire in the onlyhouse on the road, enjoying, after a dreary wet ride, the usual fare atthat time at the out-stations--fried pork and kangaroo. About thistenement was the only spot of land along the whole line of road thatcould at all lay claim to anything like fertility; at which I was themore surprised, as our route intercepted the direction in which patchesof good land are generally found in this part of the continent. The soilof this little piece was of a rich black mould and well watered by aneighbouring spring. Our road lay in some places over tracts of loosewhite sand, and in others round and over low ironstone hills. Descendingfrom one of these heights to a rich narrow flat, the presence of three orfour houses informed us we were within the township of York. The positionof the level it occupies forms the western bank of the river Avon, whichis now and has been for some time past nothing more than a chain ofwaterholes. In this neighbourhood the hills lie detached from one anotherin irregular directions, and are composed of granite; from the summit ofone on the western side of the town we looked over a vast expanse ofundulating forest land, densely wooded, with scarcely a grassy patch tobreak the monotony of the view. To give an idea of the personal labourearly settlers are obliged to undergo, I may mention that we found Mr. Bland, the most wealthy colonist in Western Australia, engaged in holdingthe plough. I was disappointed in my visit to this part of the country asit did not leave a favourable impression of its fertility--still itafforded me an opportunity of judging by comparison of the quality of thesoils in Western Australia and on the banks of the Fitzroy, and I washappy to find I had not overrated the latter. 

The odium of a recent murder in the vicinity committed by natives had ledto their absenting themselves just now from York, but a few of theirnumbers too young for suspicion were employed in the capacity of servantsand appeared sharp and intelligent lads. 

SAIL FROM SWAN RIVER. 

On the 20th of June we took leave of our friends in Western Australia, proceeding out of Owen's anchorage by a passage recommended by theHarbour-Master, in which we found half a fathom less water than the onethrough which we entered. During our stay there, nothing could exceed thekindness with which we were welcomed, and we experienced that proverbialhospitality of colonists which in this instance we shall ever rememberwith feelings of the most sincere and heart-felt pleasure. 

It may appear out of place inserting it here but on our first arrival atSwan River in November last, we saw the Aurora Australis very bright. 

At midnight of the 23rd of June we passed Cape Leeuwin, the south-westernextremity of the continent; named by the first discoverer in 1622, Landtvan de Leeuwin or the land of Lions. The wind which had increased sincethe morning to a fresh gale from the northward, now suddenly veered roundto the westward, accompanied with rain and causing a high cross-sea. 

GALE OFF CAPE LEEUWIN. 

These sudden shifts of wind frequently raise a very dangerous sea offCape Leeuwin. * This made the third gale we had experienced since the 30thof May, and is recorded here from its commencing at North-East instead ofat north, the usual point at which gales in these regions begin. Duringthe stormy weather which prevailed throughout the passage, we wereunceasingly attended by those majestic birds and monarchs of theocean--the White Albatross (Diomedia exulans) which with steadilyexpanded wings sailed gracefully over the surface of the restless main insolemn silence, like spectres of the deep; their calm and easy flightcoursing each wave in its hurried career seemed to mock the unsteadymotion of our little vessel as she alternately traversed the deep hollowsand lofty summits of the high-crested seas. 

(*Footnote. In a gale off this Cape in 1836, H. M. S. Zebra was compelledto throw her guns overboard. )

July 6. 

It was our intention to have passed through Bass Strait, but finding wewere unable to weather King Island bore up on the 6th for Hobart. On theevening of the same day we were by a sudden change of the wind placed inone of those perilous situations in which both a good ship and sound gearare so much required; the wind, which had been northerly throughout theday, about 8 P. M. Veered round to west, blowing a heavy gale with a highsea; and since we had now run about halfway along Van Diemen's Land, leftus with an extensive and dangerous shore under our lee. Through thedismal gloom of the night, during which there was incessant rain with asuccession of heavy squalls, the angry voice of nature seemed indeed tobe raised in menace against us, and it was not until the close of thenext day that a slight abatement of the weather relieved our anxiety forthe safety of the ship. During the night the wind backed round to theNorth-West and the sky became once more partially clear. Early on themorning of the 8th we descried the south-western extremity of the land ofVan Diemen, discovered in 1633 by the celebrated Dutch Navigator, AbelTasman, and so named by him after the Governor of Batavia, under whoseauthority the voyage thus crowned with success had been performed. 

TASMANIA. 

To this portion of Australasia I shall systematically apply the name ofTasmania, in honour of that adventurous seaman who first added it to thelist of European discoveries. The same principle appears to have beenrecently acted upon by the Government in creating the Bishopric ofTasmania, and I may therefore plead high authority to sanction suchinnovation:* higher perhaps than will be required by him who calls tomind that hitherto the navigator who added this island, and the scarcelyless important ones of New Zealand to the empire of science, has beenleft without a memorial, the most befitting and the most lasting thatuniversal gratitude can consecrate to individual desert. The insularcharacter of Tasmania was not fully ascertained till the year 1798, whenthe intrepid Bass, then surgeon of H. M. S. Reliance, while on a whaleboatcruise from Sydney, discovered the strait which bears his name. 

(*Footnote. Mr. Greenough, late President of the Geological Society, inhis anniversary address to that body on the 24th of May, 1841, remarksthat, "It is much to be regretted that Government has not recognisedTasmania as the name of that island, improperly denominated Van Diemen'sLand. The occurrence of a second Van Diemen's Land on the northern coastof Australia occasions confusion; and since Tasman, not Van Diemen, wasthe first discoverer of the island, it would be but just that whateverhonour the name confers should be given to the former navigator. " Journalof the Royal Geographical Society of London volume 11 1841 part 1. )

SOUTH-WEST CAPE. 

Towards 10 A. M. Steering East by South before a long rolling sea, wepassed about six miles from the South-west Cape of Tasmania. There was noopportunity at the time of determining exactly the amount of error in theposition assigned to it in the present charts, but we were satisfied thatit was placed at least five miles too far south. The Maatzuyker Isles, agroup a few miles to the south-east of this cape, are also incorrectlylaid down. The view of this headland was of a very impressive andremarkable character, and to add to the usual effect of its lonely andsolitary grandeur, a heavy sea still vexed and swelling from theturbulence of the recent gale, was breaking in monotonous regularityagainst its white and aged face; rising a thousand feet precipitouslyabove the level of the sea, and terminating in a peak, rendered yet moreconspicuous by a deep gap behind it. 

The adjacent coast had a singularly wild, bare, and storm-beatenappearance. We beheld the rugged and treeless sides of barren hills; andhere and there, where vegetation struggled with sterility, its stuntedgrowth and northern inclination caused by the prevailing winds testifiedto an ungenial clime; high, bare-faced peaks appeared occasionallythrough the thick clouds that girdled them, and the whole coastlineforcibly reminded us of the dreary shores of Tierra del Fuego. 

BRUNY ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE. 

On opening d'Entrecasteaux Channel, we observed a splendid lighthouseerected by Sir John Franklin, on the South-West extremity of BrunyIsland, and which serves to guide entering vessels clear of the shoals inthe mouth of that channel, formerly fatal to so many a luckless voyager, wrecked within sight of the hoped-for shore, upon which he might neverset his foot. The situation of the lighthouse appears admirably chosen, and it may readily be seen in the daytime, a wide gap being cut in thewoodland behind it. In alluding to the great improvement in thenavigation of d'Entrecasteaux Channel, by the erection of the lighthouseon Bruny Island, it must be remembered that we are indebted to theindefatigable exertions of Lieutenant Burnett, R. N. , who had beenappointed Marine Surveyor to the colony by the Admiralty, for a knowledgeof the exact position of its dangers. In prosecuting this service, Igrieve to say, his life was lost, by the upsetting of a boat in one ofthose sudden gusts of wind which sweep down the steep valleys on thesides of that channel. This sudden termination of Lieutenant Burnett'slabours has been deplored alike by the colony, and by the profession ofwhich he was so bright an ornament. 

We entered Storm Bay after dark against a strong North-West wind, whichquite vindicated the title of the bay to the name it bears, and so muchdelayed our progress, that it was morning before we were abreast of theIron Pot lighthouse at the entrance of the Derwent River, and after darkbefore we reached Sullivan's cove, Hobart. 

Although the passage up the river was tedious and annoying from theadverse and squally wind that prevailed throughout the day, we werealmost repaid for the delay by the scenery each tack brought to our view, and to which the remembered aspect of the shores we had so recentlyquitted, seemed by contrast to add a yet more delightful verdure. 

As we proceeded, we noticed since our last visit, several bare patches inthe woodlands, where the axe and the brand of the enterprising colonistshad prepared the way for that cultivation under the influence of whichthe landscape wore in places an almost English aspect. This fanciedresemblance--inspiring by turns delightful anticipation and fondregret--was heightened by the occasional addition of many pretty littlecottages scattered along the sloping banks of the river, and adding tothe luxuriant appearance of the country, the peaceful grace and sanctityof home. 

July 19. 

We were detained at Hobart till the 19th, the bad state of the weatherrendering it impossible to complete the requisite observations for ratingchronometers, etc. 

MOUNT WELLINGTON. 

We had two or three snowstorms during the time, but even in fine weatherthe proximity of Mount Wellington, towering above Hobart, and throwingits strange square-headed shadow across the still waters of Sullivan'scove, must always render Fort Mulgrave an unfavourable spot forobservations, from its arresting the progress of each passing cloud. Thepleasure of our return was very much enhanced by the kind hospitalitywith which we were received by the inhabitants, and the officers of HerMajesty's 21st regiment. From Sir John Franklin the Governor, weexperienced all the attention and courtesy--all the frank and generoushospitality which it was in his power to bestow. Had we been without theclaims of previous acquaintance to have recommended us to his bestoffices, the fact that our voyage was intended to advance the cause ofscience, would have been quite sufficient to interest in our welfare, onewho has achieved a reputation as enduring as it is honourable, amid theperils and trials connected with an Arctic campaign of discovery. 

The unfavourable state of the weather also prevented us from visiting andenjoying the alpine scenery in the neighbourhood of Hobart. 

KANGAROO HUNT. 

We did, however, get a few miles from the town upon one occasion, whenthe fox-hounds of a gentleman, Mr. Gregson, who will be long rememberedin the colony for his pedestrian and equestrian performances--met in theneighbourhood to hunt the kangaroo. A thoroughly English appreciation ofall that promised sport, led a large party of us to join the meet, at aplace called the Neck. The turnout was by no means despicable: the houndswere well bred, though rather small--perhaps an advantage in the sort ofcountry over which their work lies. A tolerable muster of red coats gavelife and animation to the scene, and forcibly reminded us of a coversideat home. 

The hounds found a large kangaroo almost immediately upon throwing off, and went away with him in good earnest. There was a burning scent, andfrom the nature of the country, over which we went for some distancewithout a check, the riding was really desperate. The country was thicklywooded, with open spaces here and there, in which fallen trees lay halfhidden by long grass. Riding to the hounds was therefore as necessary asdangerous, for once out of sight it was almost impossible to overtake orfall in with them. Most of the field rode boldly and well, yet I remarkedone or two casualties: early in the run, a gentleman was swept off hishorse by the projecting branch of a tree, under which he was going at areckless pace, and another had his hat perforated immediately above thecrown of his head. Yet notwithstanding the annoyance of ferrying ourhorses across the Derwent, we returned to Hobart, very much pleased withthe day's sport. *

(*Footnote. In the first volume of the Tasmanian Journal, will be foundan animated description of Kangaroo-hunting with these hounds, by theHonourable H. Elliot, who mentions that on one occasion a large kangaroogave them a run of eighteen miles. )

WHITE KANGAROO. 

In a gentleman's house there, I saw for the first time, a specimen of anAlbino or white variety of kangaroo, Halmaturus bennettii. * Anotherobject that interested me greatly was a quarry of travertine limestone, in the neighbourhood of Hobart, where I saw the impression** of leaves ofplants, not in existence at present, and of a few shells of ancientspecies. 

(*Footnote. One of this rare kind, was presented by Sir John Franklin toher Majesty, in whose menagerie at Windsor it died, and was sentafterwards to the British Museum, where it now may be seen. )

(**Footnote. Drawings of these impressions, together with the shells willbe found in Count Strzelecki's scientific work. )

SAIL FROM HOBART. 

We sailed from Hobart on the 19th of July and carried a strong fair windto within a few days' sail of Sydney, when we experienced a current thatset us 40 miles South-East in 24 hours; this was the more extraordinaryas we did not feel it before, and scarcely afterwards; and our coursebeing parallel to the shore, was not likely to have brought us suddenlywithin the influence of the currents said to prevail along the coast. Theship's position was 40 miles east of Jervis Bay when we first met it. 

July 24. 

This morning the clearness of the atmosphere enabled us at an elevationof 50 feet, to distinguish the light near the entrance of Sydney Harbour, while at a distance of thirty miles from it. Its site has been admirablychosen for indicating the position of the port from a distance at sea, but it has been placed too far from the entrance to be of much service tovessels when close in shore. * The low land in the vicinity of Sydney andBotany Bay, presents a striking contrast with the coast of the Illawarradistrict, a little further southwards; where the sea washes the base of alofty range of hills, which sweeping round some distance in the rear ofthe two former places, leaves an extensive tract of low country betweenthem and the sea. Upon the summit of these hills there rest almostinvariably huge clouds, which serve even through the gloom of the darkestnight, to assure the anxious navigator of his position. 

(*Footnote. Some years since a ship with convicts was driven at night bya South-East gale, close in with the light, and was obliged to run forthe harbour, but being then without anything to guide her into theentrance, was wrecked on the south point. The loss of life was dreadful. The light lately erected near the Sow and Pigs reef, has in some measureremedied the evil here pointed out: but being too far within, and on thesouth side of the entrance, it is not made out till, with southerlywinds, a ship has approached dangerously close to the North Head. )

APPROACH TO SYDNEY. 

On approaching Sydney, a stranger cannot fail of being delighted with hisfirst glance at the noble estuary which spreads before and around him. After sailing along a coastline of cliffs some 200 feet in height, and ingeneral effect and outline not unlike those of Dover, he observes anapparent breach in the sea-wall, forming two abrupt headlands, and ere hehas time to speculate upon the cause of that fancied ruin, his shipglides between the wave-worn cliffs into the magnificent harbour of PortJackson. The view which solicits the eye of the sea-wearied voyager as heproceeds up the harbour, is indeed well calculated to excite a feeling ofmingled admiration and delight--the security and capacity of theport--its many snug coves and quiet islets with their sloping shores, sleeping upon the silver tide--pretty white cottages and manyEnglish-looking villas peeping out here and there from their surroundingshrubberies, and the whole canopied by a sky of ethereal blue, present apicture which must at once enchant the most fastidious observer. 

We found lying in the famous cove of Sydney, H. M. S. Alligator andBritomart, commanded by Captain Sir Gordon Bremer, and Lieutenant (nowCaptain) Owen Stanley, going to form a settlement at Port Essington onthe North coast; an expedition of much interest, particularly to us, fromhaving some old shipmates engaged in it. 

CONTRAST WITH SOUTH AMERICA. 

On first arriving at Sydney from South America, I was much struck withthe strange contrast its extensive and at the same time youthfulappearance presented to the decrepit and decaying aspect of the cities onthat continent. We had then been visiting colonies and settlementsfounded centuries ago, by a nation at that time almost supreme inEuropean influence, and planted with every circumstance of apparentadvantage upon the shores of a fertile and luxurious continent given bythe immortal Genoese to the crown of Spain. We had found them distractedby internal commotions, disgraced by ignorance, debased by superstition, and defiled by slavery. 

COLONISATION. 

In Sydney we beheld with wonder what scarce half a century had sufficedto effect; for where almost within the memory of man the savage rangedthe desert wastes and trackless forests, a noble city has sprung asthough by magic from the ground, which will ever serve both as a monumentof English enterprise, and as a beacon from whence the light of Christiancivilisation shall spread through the dark and gloomy recesses ofignorance and guilt. The true history of our Australian possessions; thecauses which have led to their settlement; the means by which they havebeen established; the circumstances by which they have been influenced;and the rapid, nay, unexampled prosperity to which they have attained;present some of the most curious and most important laws of colonisationto our notice. Without attempting so far to deviate from my presentpurpose as to enter here on a deduction from the data to which I havealluded, it cannot be denied that, in the words of an eloquent writer inBlackwood, "a great experiment in the faculty of renovation in the humancharacter, has found its field in the solitudes of this vast continent:that the experiment has succeeded to a most unexampled and unexpecteddegree: and that the question is now finally decided between severity anddiscipline. " What else remains, what great designs and unfathomedpurposes, are yet reserved to grace this distant theatre, I pause not nowto guess. The boldest conjecture would probably fall very far short ofthe truth. It is sufficient for us to know that Providence has entrustedto England a new empire in the Southern seas. Nor can we doubt that thereas elsewhere throughout the various regions of the habitable globe, thesame indomitable spirit which has achieved so many successes, willaccompany those whom heaven has appointed as pioneers, in that march ofmoral regeneration and sound improvement long promised to the repentantchildren of earth. 

QUARANTINE ESTABLISHMENT. 

We were sorry to find that it had been necessary to form a quarantineestablishment in the North Harbour, in consequence of the diseasesbrought to the country by emigrant ships. A number of tombstones, whitening the side of a hill, mark the locality, and afford a melancholyevidence of the short sojourn in the land of promise which has beenvouchsafed to some. 

EXPEDITION TO PORT ESSINGTON. 

It not being the favourable season for commencing operations in BassStrait, we remained at Sydney until November, and embraced theopportunity of clearing out the ship. Our stay was undiversified withincidents, and it may as well therefore be briefly passed over. Among thefew occurrences worth mentioning, was the departure of the expeditionsent out to form a settlement at Port Essington on the northern coast. Its object was simply military occupation, it having been deemedadvisable about that time to assert practically the supremacy of GreatBritain over the Continent by occupying some of its most prominentpoints; but as soon as its destination became known in the colony, several persons came forward as volunteer-settlers, and expressed thegreatest anxiety to be allowed to accompany the expedition. Their viewsextended to the establishment of a trade with the islands in the Arafurasea; and certainly they would have been far more likely to draw forth theresources of the country, than a garrison, whose supplies are brought tothem from a distance, whose presence holds out no inducement to traders, and who are not impelled by any anxiety for their own support to discoverthe riches of the soil. For these reasons the determination of Governmentnot to throw open the lands, and their refusal to hold out the promise ofprotection to the individuals who expressed a desire to accompany theexpedition, are greatly to be regretted. In a vast continent likeAustralia, so remarkably destitute of fixed inhabitants, it would seemthat every encouragement should be afforded to persons desirous oflocating themselves on unoccupied tracts. There is a great differencebesides, between giving rise to delusive hopes--inducing people as itwere under false pretences to repair to new settlements--and checking thespirit of colonisation when it manifests itself. Every youngestablishment must go through a certain process. It is necessary thatsome should pioneer the way for others; and endure hardships thebeneficial results of which may be enjoyed only by their successors. Hadadvantage been taken of the enterprising spirit that prevailed at thetime of which I speak, the germs of a fresh settlement would have beendeposited at Port Essington, which must ultimately have risen intoimportance. A great stream of emigration was pouring into thesouth-eastern portion of Australia, and it would have been wise to open achannel by which some portion of it might have been drawn off to thenorthern coast. But such were not the views entertained by theauthorities concerning this matter. They seemed apprehensive of incurringthe blame of encouraging the speculating mania which raged so extensivelyat Sydney, and which has reacted with so pernicious an effect upon thecolony. * the expedition accordingly retained its purely militarycharacter. However, I may add, that the Bishop of Australia attended tothe spiritual wants of the settlement by sending with it a church inframe. 

(*Footnote. On our arrival at Sydney in 1838, we found speculation at itsheight: land-jobbers were carrying on a reckless and most gainful trade, utterly regardless of that revulsion they were doomed soon to experience. Town allotments that cost originally but 50 pounds were in some instancessold, three months afterwards, for ten times that sum. Yet amid all thisappearance of excessive and unnatural prosperity there were not wantingthose who foresaw and foretold an approaching change. To the withdrawalof the convicts, solely at the expressed wish of some of the most wealthycolonists, has been traced much of the decline that followed; and themore recent pages in the history of Sydney will fully bear out theopinions expressed by Captain Fitzroy when he visited it in 1836: hesays, "It is difficult to believe that Sydney will continue to flourishin proportion to its rise. It has sprung into existence too suddenly. Convicts have forced its growth, even as a hot bed forces plants, andpremature decay may be expected from such early maturity. ")

BOTANY BAY. 

During our stay at Sydney we paid a visit to Botany Bay, which from thecircumstance of its being the point first touched at by Captain Cook, naturally possesses the greatest interest of any place in theneighbourhood. Our way thither lay over a sandy plain, into which thecoast range of low hills subsides. There is little or no verdure torelieve the eye, which encounters aridity wherever it turns; and the sandbeing rendered loose by frequent traffic, the foot sinks at every step, so that the journey is disagreeable to both man and beast. Theseinconveniences, however, were soon forgotten on our arrival at ourdestination, amidst the feelings excited and the associations raised bythe objects that presented themselves. 

MONUMENT TO LA PEROUSE. 

Within the entrance of the bay, on the northern side, stands a monument*erected to the memory of La Perouse, that being the last spot at whichthe distinguished navigator was heard of, from 1788, until 1826, when theChevalier Dillon was furnished with a clue to his melancholy fate byfinding the handle of a French sword fastened to another blade in thepossession of a native of Tucopia, one of the Polynesian group. By thismeans he was enabled to trace him to the island of Mannicolo, on thereefs fronting which his ship was lost. 

(*Footnote. On the eastern side is engraven: A la Memoire de Monsieur dela Perouse. Cette terre qu'il visita en MDCCLXXXVIII. Est la derniered'ou il a fait parvenir de ses nouvelles. 

Also: Erige au nom de la France par les soins de MM. De Bougainville etDu Campier, commandant la fregate La Thetis, et la corvette L'Esperance, en relache au Port Jackson, en MDCCCXXV. 

On the western side: This place, visited by Monsieur de la Perouse in theyear MDCCLXXXVIII, is the last whence any accounts of him have beenreceived. 

Also: Erected in the name of France by MM. De Bougainville and duCampier, commanding the frigate the Thetis and the corvette the Hope, lying in Port Jackson, A. D. MDCCCXXV. 

On the north: Le fondement pose en 1825; eleve en 1828. 

On the south: Foundation laid in 1825, completed 1828. )

Close by, on the same point, stands the tomb of a French Catholic priest, named Le Receveur, who accompanied La Perouse, as naturalist, in hiscircumnavigation of the globe, and died at this great distance from hisnative land. A large stump of a tree rising near, "marks out the sadspot" where lie mouldering the bones of the wanderer in search ofmaterials to enrich the stores of science. No doubt many a hope of futurefame expired in that man's breast as he sank into his last sleep in aforeign clime, far from his home and friends and relations, such as hisorder allowed him to possess. The applause of the world, which doubtlesshe fancied would have greeted his labours at the end of his perilousjourney, he was now robbed of; and he must have felt that few would everrecollect his name, save the rare voyager who, like myself, havingencountered the same dangers that he had braved, should chance to readhis short history on the narrow page of stone that rests above his grave. 

CAPE SOLANDER. 

Another object of greater interest to the Englishman is observable onCape Solander, the opposite point of the bay. It is a plate set in therock, recording the first visit of the immortal Cook, to whose enterprisethe colonists are indebted for the land that yields them their riches, and which must now be invested in their eyes with all the sanctity ofhome. Surely it would become them to evince a more filial reverence forthe man who must be regarded as in some respects the father of thecolony. Let us hope that they will one day raise a monument to hismemory, which to be worthy of him must be worthy of themselves--somethingto point out to future generations the spot at which the first whiteman's foot touched the shore, and where civilisation was first brought incontact with the new continent. 

ILLAWARRA. 

But though Botany Bay is interesting from the associations connected withit--I am quite serious, though the expression may raise a smile on someof my readers' lips--the tract of country best worth seeing in theneighbourhood of Sydney, is Illawarra, commonly called the Garden of NewSouth Wales. By a change in the formation from sandstone to trap, a soilthis here produced capable of supporting a vegetation equal in luxurianceto any within the tropics. In the deep valleys that intersect thecountry, the tree-fern attains a great stature, and throwing out its richspreading fronds on all sides forms a canopy that perfectly excludes thepiercing rays of even an Australian sun. It is impossible to describe thefeelings of surprise and pleasure that are excited in the mind of thetraveller as he descends into any one of these delightful dells: thecontrast in the vegetable kingdom strikes him at once; he gazes around onthe rich masses of verdure with astonishment, and strongly impressed withthe idea that enchantment has been at work, involuntarily rubs his eyesand exclaims, "Am I in Australia or in the Brazils?"

ABORIGINES. 

Few only of the aborigines of the neighbourhood of Sydney are now to beseen, and these are generally in an intoxicated state. Like most savagetribes they are passionately addicted to spiritous liquors, and seek toobtain it by any means in their power. Out of a sugar bag, with a littlewater, they manage to extract a liquor sufficient to make half a dozen ofthem tipsy; and in this condition, as I have observed, they mostfrequently presented themselves to my view. They are in every respect aweak, degraded, miserable race, and are anything but a favourablespecimen of the benefits produced by intercourse with polished nations onan uncivilised people. However, the natives of Australia vary asstrangely as its soil; the members of the tribes that dwell aboutShoalhaven and the small southern ports, and come up in coasting vessels, are good-looking, useful fellows, and may hereafter be made much of. Inoticed also, in my circumnavigation of the continent, a remarkablediversity in the character of the natives, some being most kindlydisposed, while others manifested the greatest hostility and aversion. Mywhole experience teaches me that these were not accidental differences, but that there is a marked contrast in the dispositions of the varioustribes, for which I will not attempt to account. I leave in the hands ofethnologists to determine whether we are to seek the cause in minutevariations of climate or in other circumstances, physical or historical. This I can say, that great pains were formerly taken to civilize thenatives of Sydney, gardens were given them, and numerous attempts made toinculcate habits of order, and communicate a knowledge of European arts;but no advantageous results ensued, and it was at length deemedimpossible not only to improve them, but even to prevent theirdeterioration. I cannot determine whether this evinces a naturalinaptitude in the savage to learn, or too great impatience in theteachers to witness the fruits of their labours, and a proneness to bediscouraged by difficulties. 

"IS THIS GRASS?"

In the journal of my residence at Sydney I find as the result of oneday's experience, the following laconic and somewhat enigmaticalmemorandum: "Is this grass?" The question implies a doubt, which it wouldnot be easy for any person unacquainted with the circumstances of timeand place, to solve: but the reader, when he has seen the explanation, will understand why very pleasing associations are connected with thisbrief note. I was going down to the jetty late one evening, when I met aparty just landed, evidently complete strangers in this quarter of theworld. Their wandering and unsteady glances would have convinced me ofthis fact, had their whole appearance left any doubt about the matter:among them were some ladies, one of whom suddenly detached herself fromher companions, and directed as it were by instinct through the gloom, hastened towards a few sods of turf, pressed them exaltingly with herfoot, and exclaimed in a light, joyous, happy voice--through which otheremotions than that of mere gladness struggled--"Is this grass?" The wordswere nothing. They might have been uttered in a thousand different tonesand have not fixed themselves on my memory; but as they fell in accentsof delight and gratitude from the lips of the speaker, they told a wholestory, and revealed an entire world of feeling. Never shall I forget thesimple expression of this newcomer, whose emotions on first feeling thesolid earth beneath her tread, and touching a remembrance of the land shehad left in quest of another home, will be incomprehensible to no one whohas crossed the ocean. 

CAPTAIN KING. 

We met several persons at Sydney from whom we received valuableinformation, and particularly Captain King, who, as the reader mayrecollect, commanded the first expedition on which the Beagle wasemployed. His great scientific attainments must ever attach respect tohis name, and his explorations on the Australian coast, previous to thesurvey in which we were engaged, together with his father's services asGovernor of New South Wales, give him and his children a lasting claimupon the country. The information he furnished on this and subsequentoccasions was extremely valuable. 

RISING OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. 

An observation of his gave rise in my mind to very curious conjectures;he told me that where he used formerly to anchor the vessel he commandedin the head of Sydney cove, there was now scarcely sufficient water tofloat even a boat. As the deposits of the small stream that flows into itcould not have produced this change, I was led to examine the shore ofthe harbour, when I found what seemed to me to be the marks of the seahigher than its present level; this, coupled with the decrease in thesoundings we found in Darling Harbour, leads to the legitimate inferencethat this part of the continent is rising; and my reader will recollectthat it is a prevalent theory that the whole of the vast plains ofAustralasia have but recently emerged from the sea. 

CHAPTER 1. 9. BASS STRAIT. 

Leave Sydney. Enter Bass Strait. Island at Eastern entrance. Wilson's Promontory. Cape Shanck. Enter Port Phillip. Tide-race. Commence Surveying Operations. First Settlement. Escaped Convict. His residence with the Natives. Sail for King Island. Examine Coast to Cape Otway. King Island. Meet Sealers on New Year Islands. Franklin Road. Solitary Residence of Captain Smith. Soil. Advantageous position for a Penal Settlement. Leafless appearance of Trees. Examine West Coast. Fitzmaurice Bay. Stokes' Point. Seal Bay. Geological Formation. Examine Coast to Sea Elephant Rock. Brig Rock. Cross the Strait to Hunter Island. Strong Tide near Reid's Rocks. Three Hummock Island. Rats. The Black Pyramid. Point Woolnorth. Raised Beach. Coast to Circular Head. Headquarters of the Agricultural Company. Capture of a Native. Mouth of the Tamar River. Return to Port Phillip. West Channel. Yarra-yarra River. Melbourne. Custom of Natives. Manna. Visit Geelong. Station Peak. Aboriginal Names. South Channel. Examine Western Port. Adventure with a Snake. Black Swans. Cape Patterson. Deep Soundings. Revisit King and Hunter Islands. Fire. Circular Head. Gales of Wind. Reid's Rocks. Sea Elephant Rock. Wild Dogs. Navarin and Harbinger Reefs. Arrive at Port Phillip. Sail for Sydney. Pigeon House. Drought. Mr. Usborne leaves. 

Before quitting Sydney I must express my gratitude for the hospitality weexperienced during our stay, which prepared us with greater cheerfulnessto encounter the difficulties we might expect to meet with in theboisterous waters that rolled between the then imperfectly known shores, and islands of Bass Strait. It was not until the 11th of November that webade adieu to our friends, and sailed to commence our contemplatedoperations. On the 14th we passed the rocky islands (Kent's Group) at theeastern entrance of the Strait, their barren and bleak appearance bespokethe constant gales that swept over them, checking every tendency tovegetation. As we approached them the soundings decreased to 28 fathoms, the observation of which fact apprises vessels coming from the eastwardin thick weather, of their proximity. After leaving these islands weprogressed but slowly, and the passage through the Strait promised to betedious: yet, as the wind was fair and the weather fine, we had no reasonto complain, considering moreover the remarkably mild reception we metwith in the Funnel, the name commonly and most appropriately given by thecolonists to Bass Strait, from the constant strong winds that sweepthrough it. 

WILSON'S PROMONTORY. 

On the 17th we passed Wilson's Promontory, the southern extremity ofAustralia, connected with the main by a low sandy isthmus, only left dryit is probable of late years. It is a very mountainous tract, rearing itsmany peaks in solemn grandeur from the waves and burying their summits*at most seasons of the year, in a canopy of grey mist. On some occasions, however, the bold outline of the mountains is relieved against a clearsky, and their loftiest points catch the first rays of the morning sun, as it rises from the eastern ocean. Many small islands are dispersed overthe sea in front of this promontory, and partake of its character, beingapparently the tops of mountains thrusting themselves up from the deep, and suggesting the belief that new countries are about to be disclosed. Passing Port Western, generally called Western Port, a high mound on thesouth-eastern extremity of Grant Island was the most conspicuous object. The next remarkable feature in the coast is Cape Shanck, a projection atthe western end of a long line of cliffs. Lying close off it is a rock, named, from its exact resemblance, Pulpit Rock. 

(*Footnote. Nearly 3000 feet high. )

PORT PHILLIP. 

In a small bay on the east side of this headland we caught a glimpse ofsome rich valleys; but from thence for a distance of 16 miles, the coastretains a barren sandy character to Port Phillip, which we reached on theafternoon of the 18th. We scarcely found any ripplings in the entrance, an occurrence of extreme rarity; for it will readily be imagined that abody of water required to fill a bay thirty miles deep and twenty broad, passing through an entrance one mile and a half in width, must rush withgreat violence; and when we take into account the extreme unevenness ofthe bottom (soundings varying from 40 to 25 and even 9 fathoms) nosurprise can be felt that such a stream, particularly when opposed to astrong wind, should raise a dangerous sea. The force of it may beconjectured from a fact of which I was myself witness. Standing on one ofthe entrance points, I saw a schooner trying to get in with all sails setbefore a fresh breeze, and yet she was carried out by the current. Another observation is also recorded for the guidance of the strangerpassing into the port. When in the middle of the entrance, a low clump ofdark bushes breaking the line of white sand beach beyond ShortlandsBluff, was just seen clear of the latter. 

The first appearance of Port Phillip is very striking, and the effect ofthe view is enhanced by the contrast with the turbulent waves without andin the entrance. As soon as these have been passed, a broad expanse ofplacid water displays itself on every side; and one might almost fancyoneself in a small sea. But the presence of a distant highland forming abluff in the North-East soon dispels this idea. Besides this bluff(called by the natives Dandonong) Arthur's Seat, and Station Peak are theprincipal features that catch the eye of the stranger. The latter, calledYouang by the natives, is one of a small group of lofty peaks risingabruptly out of a low plain on the western shore of the bay; whilstArthur's Seat towers over the eastern shore, and forms the northernextremity of a range subsiding gradually to the coast at Cape Shanck. 

Anchoring close to the southern shore, about three miles within theentrance, we set to work in good earnest with our surveyingoperations--in the first place selecting a conspicuous spot forobservation, from which all the meridians of our work in the western partof the Strait were to be measured. For the sake of my nautical readers Imay mention that the western extreme of the cliffy patches on the southshore of the bay, marks the place chosen. The nature of our employmentconfining us to the neighbourhood of the entrance, we had no opportunityof visiting the town of Melbourne, situated near the northern side of thebay. This capital of Australia Felix had for a long time been known tosome squatters from Tasmania; but to Sir Thomas Mitchell the inhabitantsmust ever feel grateful for revealing to the world at large the fertilityof the districts in its neighbourhood. It is not a little singular thatthe attempt to form a settlement at this place in 1826 should havefailed. A fort was built and abandoned, and of the party of convicts whoaccompanied the expedition, two escaped and joined the natives, by whomone was murdered, whilst the other, contriving by some means toingratiate himself with them, remained in their company until 1835, whenhe was discovered by the settlers from Tasmania. During the eleven yearshe had passed in the bush, without coming in contact with any otherEuropean, he had entirely forgotten his own language, and had degeneratedinto a perfect savage. His intellect, if he ever possessed much, hadalmost entirely deserted him; and nothing of any value could be gleanedfrom him respecting the history and manners of the tribe with whom he hadso long dwelt. He received his pardon and went to Hobart, but such wasthe indolence he had contracted that nothing could be made of him. 

The southern shore of Port Phillip is a singular long narrow tongue ofland, running out from the foot of the range of which Arthur's Seat isthe most conspicuous point. I infer from the limestone prevailing in it, and containing shells of recent species, that it was once much beneathits present level; in fact, that it stops up what was formerly a broadmouth of the bay, leaving only the present narrow entrance at the westernextremity. Over its surface are scattered hills from one to two hundredfeet in height, in the valleys between which was found some light sandysoil supporting at this time rich grass, and at various places a thingrowth of Banksia, Eucalypti, and Casuarina, all stunted and showingsymptoms of having been roughly used by the south wind. Near the spot wehad chosen for the centre of our observations was a well of inferiorwater, and we did not find any better in the neighbourhood. The point inquestion therefore will never be very eligible as a settlement. Thekangaroos are numerous and large, and the finest snappers I have everheard of are caught off this point, weighing sometimes as much as thirtypounds. Our fishing experiments, however, were not very productive, beingprincipally sharks; thirteen young ones were found in a single female ofthis species. 

SAIL FOR KING ISLAND. 

Bad weather prolonged our stay until the 26th of November. We had beenchiefly occupied in determining the position of the mouths of the variouschannels intersecting the banks, that extend across the entire bay, threemiles within the entrance. The most available passages appeared to bethose lying on the south and west shores, particularly the former forvessels of great draught; but we did not conclude the examination of themat this time, sailing on the morning of the 26th to survey the coast tothe westward. The first thirteen miles, trending West by South was of alow sandy character, what seemed to be a fertile country stretchingbehind it. Two features on this line are worthy of notice--PointFlinders, resembling an island from seaward, on account of the low landin its rear; and the mouth of the river Barwon, navigable for boatsentering in very fine weather. On its northern bank, eight miles from thesea is the site of the town of Geelong. Passing this the nature of thecountry begins to change, and high grassy downs with rare patches ofwoodland present themselves, which in their turn give place, as weapproach Cape Otway, to a steep rocky coast, with densely wooded landrising abruptly over it. 

CAPE OTWAY. 

The above-mentioned Cape is the northern point of the western extremityof Bass Strait, and is swept by all the winds that blow into that end ofthe Funnel. The pernicious effect of these is evident in the stuntedappearance of the trees in its neighbourhood. It is a bold projection inlatitude 38 degrees 51 minutes, and appears to be the South-Westextremity of a ridge of granite gradually rising from it in a North-Eastdirection. About half a mile off it, lies a small detached reef. 

Having thus coasted the northern side of the Strait, we proceeded tocross over to Tasmania to examine the southern side. About halfway isKing Island, extending in a north and south direction, thirty-five miles, and in an east and west thirteen. It lies right across the entrance ofthe Strait, about forty miles from either shore, and from its isolatedposition is well adapted for a penal settlement. 

The more northern channel of the two formed by this island is the safer, and the water deepens from 47 to 65 fathoms as you approach it from thecontinent. Its outline is not remarkable, the most conspicuous pointbeing a round hill 600 feet high over the northern point called CapeWickham. We anchored in a bay on the North-West side, under New YearIsland, which affords shelter for a few vessels from all winds. There isa narrow passage between the two, but none between them and the southernpoint of the bay, which is open to the north-west. On the summit of oneof these islands boulders of granite are strewed, and they exhibit a veryremarkable white appearance from seaward when the sun has passed hismeridian. 

A SEALER'S FAMILY. 

A sealer had established himself on the north island with two wives, natives of Tasmania. They were clothed in very comfortable greatcoatsmade of kangaroo skins, and seemed quite contented with their condition. Their offspring appeared sharp and intelligent. In another part of mywork I shall touch more fully on the history of these sealers, who stylethemselves Residents of the islands. They further distinguish theirclasses by the names of Eastern and Western Straits-men, according to theposition of the islands they inhabit. 

The sealers on New Year Island had a large whaleboat, which I wassomewhat puzzled to know how they managed, there being but one man amongthem. He informed me, however, that his wives, the two native women, assisted him to work the boat, which had been well prepared for the roughweather they have to encounter in Bass Strait by a canvas half-deck, which, lacing in the centre, could be rolled up on the gunwale in fineweather. 

THE MUTTON BIRD. 

The principal occupation of these people during this month of the year istaking the Sooty Petrel, called by the colonists the Mutton Bird, from afancied resemblance to the taste of that meat. It is at the present monththat they resort to the island for the purpose of incubation. Theyconstitute the chief sustenance of the sealers, who cure them for use andsale: their feathers also form a considerable article of trade. Manyparts of the island were perfectly honeycombed with their burrows, whichgreatly impede the progress of the pedestrian, and are in some casesdangerous from snakes lying in them. The sealers told me that they hadlost a cat which died within an hour after the bite of one of thesereptiles. We here found cabbages and water, and the people informed usthat it was always their custom to plant a few vegetables on the islandsthey frequented. 

From the top of this island we had a good view of the Harbinger reefs, so-called from a convict ship of that name which was lost upon them andall hands perished. I was glad to find they were only two detached rockslying three miles and a half from the shore, instead of, as reported, onecontinued reef lying six or seven miles from the land. They bore northsix miles from our position. 

CAPTAIN SMITH. 

The sealers informed us that a house which we descried in the bay, wasoccupied by a gentleman who had met with a reverse of fortune. Weaccordingly paid him a visit next morning, and found that he was aCaptain Smith with whom the world had gone wrong, and who had accordinglyfled as far as possible from the society of civilised man and taken uphis residence on the shores of King Island with his family. He had giventhe name of Port Franklin to the bay, which we changed to Franklin Road, from its not being worthy of the title of a Port. He was led to choosehis position from its being in the neighbourhood of the only secureanchorage from all winds, and near the best soil he had found aftertraversing the whole of the island. According to his account it wastotally unfit for rearing sheep on a large scale; the bushes and grassbeing so full of burrs that the wool was completely spoiled. The soil waseverywhere very inferior, and a few patches only of clean land was to befound, the principal part being overrun with dense scrub and imperviousthickets. There were few elevations on the island, and those not of anygreat magnitude, the loftiest point being scarcely seven hundred feet. The formation of the neighbourhood of Captain Smith's house was granite:water abounds. 

WEST SIDE OF KING ISLAND. 

The house in which this modern Robinson Crusoe dwelt was what is called aSlab Hut, formed of rough boards and thatched with grass. He had a gardenin which grew some cabbages and a few other vegetables; but he complainedsorely of blight from the west winds. There are three varieties ofkangaroos on the island, and plenty of wildfowl on some of the lagoons;so that supplies are abundant: but the few sheep he possessed wererendered of little value from the burrs I have before mentioned. I couldnot help pitying the condition of this gentleman and his interestingfamily--a wife and daughter and three or four fine boys. They hadretained a few of the tastes and habits of civilized life, and I observeda good library with a flute and music in the Slab Hut. It was with greatpleasure that I afterwards learned that Captain Smith's prospects hadbrightened. He is now, I believe, a comfortable settler on the easternside of Tasmania. 

On the 29th we passed down the western shore of King Island, finding thecoast to be low, treacherous and rocky. We discovered some outlying rocksa mile and half from shore, and about eleven miles south from New YearIsland. The most remarkable circumstance we noticed in this part of ourcruise, was the leafless appearance of the trees on the higher parts ofthe island. It seemed as though a hurricane had stripped them of theirverdure. They reminded me strongly of a wintry day in the north. 

About eight miles from the extremity of the island we discovered a bayaffording good anchorage in east winds. It was afterwards calledFitzmaurice Bay. From its neighbourhood a long dark line of black cliffsstretches southward until within about three miles of the point, when theground sinks suddenly, whence vessels are apt to be misled and to fancythat the island ends there, whilst in reality it stretches out into a lowdangerous rocky point, named after the writer, for about three milesmore. 

SEAL BAY. 

Rounding this we anchored on the eastern side of it in Seal Bay--a wildanchorage, the swell constantly rolling in with too much surf to allow ofour commencing a series of tidal observations. This bay, in the mouth ofwhich lies a small cluster of rocks, is separated from the one on theopposite side, by a strip of low sandy land, which, as I have said, mayeasily be overlooked by vessels coming from the westward. A ship indeedhas been lost from fancying that the sea was clear south of the blackcliffs that skirt the shore down from Fitzmaurice Bay. The Wallaby arenumerous on this part of the island. Mr. Bynoe shot one (Halmaturusbellidereii) out of whose pouch he took a young one which he kept onboard and tamed. It subsequently became a great pet with us all. 

I noticed here a trappean dyke, but the general formation of this end ofKing Island exactly corresponded with that about Captain Smith's house, which shows that it is a continuous ridge of granite. The south-easternshore is rather steep, and the ground which rises abruptly over it isalmost denuded of wood. 

Leaving Seal Bay--from the south point of which we saw the principaldangers at this extremity of Bass Strait, Reid's rocks bearing East bySouth 1/4 South 12 miles--we coasted round the eastern shore and anchoredoff a sandy bay about the centre of the island. The only remarkableobject was a rock, lying one mile from the shore and five from Seal Bay, on which we bestowed a name suggested by its form, Brig Rock. Off thenorth point of the bay in which we anchored lies a white rock or isletcalled Sea Elephant Rock, with a reef a mile off its north point. Opposite this is a small inlet fed by the drainage of some lagoons orswamps behind the bay. Northward the character of the coast, as far as wecould see, changes considerably, being lower, with a continued line ofsandy shore. 

A breeze from the eastward prevented our completing the survey of thenorthern side of the island; but one important result we had arrived at, namely, that safe anchorage may be obtained in west winds within amoderate distance of this part of the shore in less than fifteen fathoms. 

CROSS THE STRAIT. 

We now crossed over to the group of islands fronting the north-westernpoint of Tasmania, and confining the southern side of the mouth of theStrait. The tide setting to the South-West at the rate of three knots anhour* brought us within five miles of Reid's rocks. Passing at thatdistance from their eastern side we had 28 and 30 fathoms sand and rock:and the greatest depth we found in crossing was 37 fathoms towards thesouth side of the Strait. 

(*Footnote. This set of the tide being rather across the channel rendersthe passage between King Island and Reid's rocks by no meansrecommendable. Captain King on returning to New South Wales, used thispassage and was very nearly wrecked; the set of the tides at that timenot being known. It appears they saw the south point of King Island justat dark, and shaped a course well wide of Reid's rocks; they foundthemselves, however, drifted by the tide close on them. We made the timeof high-water at the full and change of the moon in this entrance of theStrait to be half an hour before noon; but the western stream began threehours and a half before, and the eastern again precedes low-water by thesame amount of time. )

A SECURE ANCHORAGE. 

Early on the morning of December 3rd, we reached a secure anchoragebetween Three Hummock Island, and Hunter, formerly called Barren Island;and we had every reason to be thankful at finding ourselves in such asnug berth, for during our stay, we experienced gales from east and west, with such sudden changes that no ship could have saved herself. This madeus sensible how necessary it was to choose anchorages sheltered from bothwinds. Our surveying operations were sadly delayed by this boisterousweather. 

Three Hummock Island receives its name from three peaks rising on itseastern side. The south rises abruptly from the water and forms asingular sugarloaf 790 feet high. It is composed of granite, boulders ofwhich front many of the points, forming strange figures. The whole of theisland is clothed with an almost impervious scrub, which growinglaterally forms a perfect network, so that it is impossible to traverseit. Mr. Bynoe procured few specimens of birds in consequence. Thewoodcutters one day cut a small brown opossum in half: it seemed to be avery rare if not a new animal; but unfortunately the head part could notbe found. Small brown rats were very numerous, they had rather shorttails with long hind feet, and sat up like kangaroos. 

The trees on this island are small and stunted, being chiefly Banksia andEucalypti. Water is plentiful. We supplied the ship from wells dug on thenorth point of a sandy bay on the South-East side of the island. *

(*Footnote. The reef that so nearly sealed the Mermaid's fate withCaptain King, we found to lie half a mile north-west from the north-eastend of Three Hummock Island. )

BARREN ISLAND. 

Hunter Island well deserves its former name of Barren, for it isperfectly treeless; a green kind of scrub overruns its surface, which atits highest point is three hundred feet above the level of the sea. Inform it is like a closed hand with the fore-finger extended, pointingnorth. The inclination of its strata differs, dipping to the sea on bothsides, east and west. These at first sight appeared to be of the samekind of sandstone that we had seen so much of on the North-West coast, but on closer inspection I found they were raised beaches; the prevailingmass of the island was a granitoid rock. 

THE BLACK PYRAMID. 

From stations on Hunter Island we were enabled to determine the positionsof the numerous dangers fronting its west or seaward side, and also thatof a dark mass of rock, 250 feet high, appropriately named the BlackPyramid, lying 16 miles West by North from the centre of the island, andin latitude 40 degrees 28 minutes South which places it nearly five milessouth of its position in the old charts. It is quite a finger-post tothis entrance of the Strait, and all ships should pass close to it. WhenI looked at these islands and rocks I could not help thinking of poorCaptain Flinders and his enterprising companion Mr. Bass, the discoverersof the north-western part of Tasmania. What a thrill of excitement musthave shot through their frames when on rounding Hunter Island, in thelittle Norfolk cutter, they first felt the long swell of the ocean andbecame convinced of the insular character of Tasmania! This discoverymust have amply repaid them for all their toils and privations. Nothingindeed is so calculated to fill the heart of the navigator with pride, asthe consciousness that he has widened the sphere of geographical science, and added new seas and new lands to the known world. 

The south end of Hunter Island is about three miles from a point of themainland, called Woolnorth; but from the rocks and inlets that encumberthe passage and the rapid rush of the tide it is only navigable for smallvessels with great caution. Point Woolnorth is a rather low sloping pointcomposed of the same rock as Hunter Island. Ten miles south of it araised beach again occurs 100 feet above the level of the sea. BehindPoint Woolnorth the country swells into hills nearly six hundred feethigh. Three miles from its extreme is an out-station of the Van Diemen'sLand Agricultural Company, of which I shall say more anon. Some fortypersons are here located under the care of a German, who amused himselfby making a large collection of insects, which he has since taken toGermany. The soil on this extremity of Tasmania is most productive; butmuch labour is required in clearing for the purposes of cultivation. Fromthence to Circular Head, bearing East 1/2 South 26 miles, the shore islow and sinuous, forming three shallow bights. 

WALKER ISLAND. 

Walker and Robbins islands, which lie together in the shape of anequilateral triangle, with sides of nine miles, front the coast aboutmidway, and leave only a narrow boat-channel between them and the main. 

On Walker Island our boats met the wives of some sealers whose husbandshad gone to King Island on a sealing excursion. They were clothed likethose on New Year Island. One was half European and half Tasmanian, andby no means ill-looking; she spoke very good English and appeared to takemore care of her person than her two companions, who were aborigines ofpure blood. A few wild flowers were tastefully entwined with her hair, which was dressed with some pretensions to elegance. They had a pack ofdogs along with them, and depended in a great measure for theirmaintenance on the Wallaby they killed. The skin also of these animalsconstitutes to them an important article of trade. 

It was the 15th before we had completed for the present our survey ofthis part, owing as I have before observed, to the constant bad weather, which was doubly felt by the boats in which all the materials for thechart of this neighbourhood were collected. 

CIRCULAR HEAD. 

We now examined the coast to Circular Head, under the north side of whichwe anchored in 7 fathoms on the morning of the 18th, after spending a dayunder the South-East corner off Robbins Island, where we found goodanchorage in westerly winds. Making too free with the shore with a lowsun ahead, we grounded for a short time on a shingle spit extending offthe low point North-West from Circular Head. Three quarters of a mileEast-North-East from this point is a dangerous rocky ledge just awash, onwhich several vessels have run. By keeping the bluff extreme of CircularHead open it may always be avoided. 

The latter is a singular cliffy mass of trappean rock, rising abruptlyfrom the water till its flattened crest reaches an elevation of 490 feet. 

This strange projection stands on the eastern side of a small peninsula. On the parts broken off where it joins the sandy bay on the north side, we found the compass perfectly useless, from the increased quantity ofmagnetic iron ore they contain. 

It is on this point that the headquarters of the Van Diemen's LandAgricultural Company are established under the charge of a Mr. Curr, whose house with its extensive out-buildings and park, occupying somerising ground on the northern part of the point, greets the eye of thestranger, to whom the reflection is forcibly suggested by the sight, thatthe natural graces of the scene, must soon yield to the restrainingregularity with which man marks his conquests from the wilderness. Thename of this faint memento of home was, we were informed, Hyfield; astraggling village occupies a flat to the left, and in the bay on thesouth side of the head, which is the general anchorage, is a store with asubstantial jetty. 

English grasses have been sown at this establishment with great success, one acre of ground now feeding four sheep, instead of as before, fouracres being required for one; the improvement in the grass was also madeevident by the excellent condition in which all the stock appeared to be. 

HYFIELD. 

The garden at Hyfield was quite in keeping with the other parts of theestablishment, and it was not a little pleasing to observe a number ofEnglish fruit trees. I was told, however, that they suffered exceedinglyfrom blight which was brought by the west winds. In one corner that atfirst escaped my curiosity, so completely had it been shut out from thegaze of all by a winding bowery walk, I found in a sort of alcove, thetomb of a child; upon it lay a fresh bouquet of flowers, revealing thatthe dead was not forgotten by those who were left behind. It was easy todivine, and I afterwards learned this to be the case, that it was themother, Mrs. Curr, who came every morning to pay this tribute ofaffection to the departed. A weeping willow drooped its supple branchesover the tomb; some honey-suckle and sweet-briar surrounded it, loadingthe air with their rich fragrance; not even the chirping of a birddisturbed the solemn silence that reigned around; everything seemed toconspire to suggest holy and melancholy thoughts, and I lingered awhileto indulge in them; but perceiving by the few footmarks that I was anintruder, hastened to retire, by no means sorry, however, to havediscovered this evidence of the enduring love a mother bears heroffspring. 

In the Park at Hyfield were some fallow deer, imported from England, andseeming to thrive exceedingly well. There were also two emus, the sightof which reminded me of a very curious observation I had before made, andthe truth of which again struck me forcibly, namely, that the face of theEmu bears a most remarkable likeness to that of the aborigines of NewSouth Wales. Had there been any intimacy between the native and the Emu, I might have been disposed to resort to this circumstance as anexplanation; for some maintain that the human countenance partakes of theexpression and even of the form of whatever, whether man or beast, it isin the habit of associating with. 

SURREY HILLS. 

The Company have another station about sixty miles South-East fromCircular Head, at the Surrey hills, from whence the road to Launceston isgood and wide. But between it and Circular Head there are several riversto ford, and the country is not only very hilly, but densely wooded withenormous trees, some of which I was informed were 30 feet incircumference. This causes great difficulty in clearing the land. Theyaccomplish about fifty acres every year. The establishment consists ofone hundred persons, many of whom are convicts. They are kept inexcellent order; and their being strictly forbidden the use of spirits nodoubt contributes materially to prevent their giving trouble. I could nothelp thinking that the Company conducted its operations on too extensivea scale to render their undertaking profitable. The high pay of theirofficers, and the difficulties encountered in clearing the land, are inthemselves considerable drawbacks; especially when we consider, thatafter all the pains bestowed, the soil acquired for the purposes ofcultivation is often of very inferior quality. 

The soil on the peninsula, of which Circular Head forms the mostremarkable feature, is generally speaking of a poor light character, andnot well watered. The country lying immediately behind it is low and cutup with branches from a large estuary. 

My esteemed friend, Count Strzelecki, traversed the country betweenCircular Head and PointWoolnorth (North-West extreme of Tasmania) and describes it as presenting"eight rivers as difficult to cross as the Scamander, with deep gulliesand rocky ridges, and marshes more difficult to overcome than eitherridges or rivers. "

MINERAL WATERS. 

We learned there were some mineral waters about fifteen miles to thewestward of Circular Head. The ingredients they contain, and theirmedicinal properties, were discovered by Count Strzelecki, who inspeaking of them, says, "I have endeavoured to ascertain both--the latteron my own constitution, and the former by chemical analysis. They belongto a class of carbonated waters. " From his examination he concludes, "that they are aperient and tonic, and sufficiently disgusting to thepalate to pass for highly medicinal. "

Whilst here, I was informed that a small party of natives were still atlarge, though seldom seen, keeping in the remotest recesses of the woods. They thus succeeded in avoiding for some years their enemy the white man. Indeed it was only when pressed by hunger that these aboriginalpossessors of the soil ventured to emerge from their hiding-places, androb some of the Company's out-stations of flour. By these means, however, it was that a knowledge was obtained of their existence. For, though theymanaged so secretly, that it was some time before they were found out, ashepherd at an out-station, began at last frequently to miss flour andtobacco* in a very mysterious manner. He determined accordingly to watch, but was for a long time unsuccessful. At length he saw a native womansteal into the hut, when he drew the door to by a line which communicatedwith his place of concealment. Of the treatment this poor woman receivedfrom the hands of her captor I shall treat hereafter. After being kept aprisoner some time, she was sent to Flinders Island; but it was longbefore the discovery was made that she had any companions. I was informedthat the shepherd who took her, afterwards lost his life by the spear ofa native, probably impelled by revenge. 

(*Footnote. The fondness exhibited by the aborigines who inhabit thesouthern parts of Australia for smoking is extraordinary. )

SAIL FOR THE RIVER TAMAR. 

We completed our operations on the evening of the day on which wearrived, namely, December 18th, and left for the Tamar river, in order tomeasure a meridian distance. Passing six miles from Rocky Cape, we had 28fathoms; and steering east, the depth gradually increased to 42 fathoms, with a soft muddy bottom, being then twenty miles North-West by West fromPort Dalrymple, the mouth of the Tamar. 

The 19th was one of the few fine days it was our good fortune to meetwith, and we enjoyed a splendid view of the Alpine features of Tasmania. Towering peaks connected sometimes by high tablelands, glittered in thesun as if capped with snow. *

(*Footnote. Near Hobart, in February 1836, I saw snow on the side of amountain. )

PORT DALRYMPLE. 

Early in the afternoon, the lighthouse on Low Head appeared like a whitespeck resting on the blue horizon; and by evening we found ourselves atanchor just within the reefs fronting the west entrance point of PortDalrymple. The first appearance of the Tamar river is not very invitingto the seaman. A rapid stream, thrown out of its course, hemmed in bynumerous reefs, and passing over a bottom so uneven as to cause a changein the soundings from 12 to 26, and then 18 fathoms, with a ripple orline of broken water across the mouth renders it impossible in strongNorth-West winds for a stranger to detect the channels, and raises somuch sea that the pilots cannot reach the vessels that arrive off themouth. 

As the Beagle passed through the west channel, the shear or first beaconon the west reefs was on with a round-topped hill some distance up theriver. Although there is very apparent difficulty in navigating theTamar, still the first glance shows it to be a stream of importance. Itsvalley, although not wide, may be traced for miles abruptly separatingthe ranges of hills. We can easily imagine, therefore, the joyexperienced by Captain Flinders on first discovering it in 1798, and thusbestowing a solid and lasting benefit on the future Tasmanian colonists. This is not, however, the only portion of Australasia whose inhabitantsare indebted for the riches they are reaping from the soil, to theenterprising spirit of Captain Flinders. 

George Town is a straggling village lying two miles within the entranceof the Tamar; in its neighbourhood were found greenstone, basalt, andtrappean rocks. Launceston, the northern capital of Tasmania, lies thirtymiles up the river, or rather at the confluence of the two streams calledthe North and South Esk, which form it. 

SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 

We found that the Governor was attending not only to the present but thefuture welfare of the colonists, by examining into the most eligiblespots for erecting lighthouses at the eastern entrance of Bass Strait, fronting the North-East extreme of Tasmania, the numerous dangersbesetting which have been fatal to several vessels. These buildings willbe lasting records of the benefits the colony derived from Sir JohnFranklin's government. 

As we subsequently visited the Tamar, it is needless to give here thelittle information we gathered during our brief stay. Our observationswere made on the south point of Lagoon Bay, where we found a whaleboatbelonging to a party of sealers just arrived with birds' feathers andskins for the Launceston market. They had left their wives and families, including their dogs, on the islands they inhabit. 

RETURN TO PORT PHILLIP. 

On the morning of the 22nd, we were again out of the Tamar, and makingthe best of our way to Port Phillip for a meridian distance. There waslittle tide noticed in the middle of the Strait; the greatest depth wefound was 47 fathoms, 68 miles North-West from the Tamar, where thenature of the bottom was a grey muddy sand or marl. 

At noon on the 23rd, we entered Port Phillip, and ran up through the WestChannel in three and three and a half fathoms. 

Point Lonsdale, the west entrance point, being kept open of Shortlandbluff--a cliffy projection about two miles within it--leads into theentrance; and a clump of trees on the northern slope of Indented Head, was just over a solitary patch of low red cliffs, as we cleared thenorthern mouth of the channel. From thence to Hobson's Bay, where weanchored at 3 P. M. , the course is North by West 22 miles across asplendid sheet of water, of which the depth is 11 and 13 fathoms. 

William Town, the seaport town of Australia Felix, named after hisMajesty King William IV. , stands on a very low piece of land forming thesouthern shore of Hobson's Bay, called Point Gellibrand, after agentleman from Hobart, one of the first who brought stock to PortPhillip. He was lost in the bush in a very mysterious manner in 1834. Notrace of him or his horse was found till 1842, when some of the nativesshowed where his mouldering bones lay. The point that bears his namescarcely projects sufficiently to afford large ships shelter from southwinds in Hobson's Bay. In the North-West corner of the latter is themouth of the Yarra-yarra river; but although only one mile and a halffrom the general anchorage, it is very difficult to be made out. Thefollowing anecdote will illustrate the difficulty of detecting the mouthsof rivers in Australia. Soon after we anchored in Hobson's Bay, a smallschooner passed, going to Melbourne. Several of the officers were at thetime standing on the poop, and each selected a spot at which the schoonerwas to enter the river; and although, as I have before stated, we wereonly one mile and a half from it, none of us was right. A single tallbushy-topped tree, about a mile inland, rose over the schooner as sheleft the waters of Hobson's Bay. 

William Town consisted, at that time, of only a few houses. Onedisadvantage under which this place labours is badness of water, whilethe country around it is a dead level, with clumps of very open woodland. The formation is whinstone, but the soil's fertile quality shows anabsence of sandstone. 

RIVER YARRA-YARRA. 

Proceeding up the Yarra-yarra, we found that about two miles from themouth, the river divides, one branch continuing in a northerly direction, and the other, a narrow sluggish stream, turning suddenly off to theeastward. The banks are so densely wooded, that it is seldom if ever thatits surface is ruffled by a breeze. 

MELBOURNE. 

The township of Melbourne on its north bank, five miles from the river'smouth, we found a very bustling place. Nearly two thousand persons hadalready congregated there, and more were arriving every day, so thatgreat speculation was going on in land. We were delighted with thepark-like appearance of the country, and the rich quality of the soil. This was the most fertile district we had seen in all Australia; and Ibelieve everyone allows that such is the case. Its reputation indeed wasat one time so great, that it became the point of attraction for allsettlers from the mother country, where at one time the rage for PortPhillip became such, that there existed scarcely a village in which someof the inhabitants, collecting their little all, did not set out for thisland of promise, with the hope of rapidly making a fortune and returningto end their days in comfort at home. Everyone I think must leave withsuch hopes; for who can deliberately gather up his goods and go into afar country with the settled intention of never returning?

A rocky ledge extends across the river fronting the town, upon which theplan had been formed of erecting a dam for the purpose of keeping thewater fresh; whereas now the river is salt above the town, and the wellwater is not particularly good. The Yarra-yarra is not navigable even forboats many miles beyond Melbourne, on account of the numerous falls. Someof the reaches above the town are very picturesque--still glassy sheetsof water stretch between steep banks clothed with rich vegetation down tothe very edge of the stream--the branches of the trees droop over thesmooth surface, and are vividly reflected; and substance is so perfectlyblended with shadow, that it is impossible to detect where they unite. 

At the western extremity of Melbourne is a low round hill, fifty-sevenfeet above the level of the sea by our observations, and about thirtyabove the town. There are now none of the aborigines in the neighbourhoodof Melbourne; but I learned that some of their old men remember the timewhen the site of the town was under water, in consequence of one of thosesudden inundations that happen in Australia, and are so much in keepingwith the other strange things that occur there. 

SINGULAR CUSTOM. 

Having alluded to the natives, I may here mention a singular custom thatcame under notice some time after, at the Protectorate in the valley ofthe Loddon, in the vicinity of Melbourne. Several women were observedhaving their faces completely concealed by their opossum-skin mantles. Not satisfied with this moreover, in passing a party of men, they movedin a sidelong manner, so as to render it impossible, even if the coveringcame to be displaced, that their faces should be seen. In the evening atthe Corobbery, these persons, three in number, were seated in the circleof women, so as to have their backs turned to the dancers or actors, their faces still being wholly concealed. They remained seated, motionless, taking no part in the singing or the gestures ofencouragement indulged in by the other women. It was subsequentlyexplained by a protector, that these were women who had daughtersbetrothed to the men of their tribe, and that during the period ofbetrothment the mothers are always thus rigidly veiled. 

Near Mount Macedon, thirty miles North-West from Melbourne, there hasbeen discovered, I was informed, a quarry of marble of a very finequality; and in the same neighbourhood is an extinct crater. Theformation at and in the immediate vicinity of Melbourne, is of tertiarydeposits associated with arenaceous older rocks. 

We returned to the ships by a short route leading direct from Melbourneto the northern shore of Hobson's Bay. During the walk I was much struckwith the great risk that people run in selecting land from a map of thiscountry, half of our road lying over a rich loam, and the other half oversoft sand. The trees swarmed with large locusts (the cicada) quitedeafening us with their shrill buzzing noise. 

MANNA. 

We found the branches of these trees and the ground underneath strewedover with a white substance resembling small flakes of snow, called bythe colonists manna. I am aware that an erroneous idea exists that thismatter is deposited by the locusts; but in fact it is an exudation fromthe Eucalyptus; and although I saw it beneath another kind of tree, itmust have been carried there by the wind. A different sort, of a paleyellow colour, is found on a smaller species of Eucalyptus growing onhighlands, and is much sought after for food by the natives, whosometimes scrape from the tree as much as a pound in a quarter of anhour. It has the taste of a delicious sweetmeat, with an almond flavour, and is so luscious that much cannot be eaten of it. This is well worthyof attention from our confectioners at home, and it may hereafter form anarticle of commerce, although from what has fallen under my ownobservation, and from what I have learnt from Mr. Eyre and others, Ishould say it is not of frequent occurrence. The first kind, being foundstrewed underneath the tree probably exudes from the leaf, whilst thesecond oozes from the stem. The wood of the latter is much used for fuelby the natives, especially in night-fishing, and burns brightly, withoutsmoke, diffusing also a delicious aromatic smell. 

HOBSON'S BAY. 

On Christmas day, which we spent in Hobson's Bay, we experienced one ofthose hot winds which occasionally occur coming off the land. During itsprevalence, everything assumes a strange appearance--objects are seenwith difficulty, and acquire a tremulous motion like that which isimparted to everything seen through the air escaping from an over-heatedstove. The thermometer on a wall under the glare of the sun, stood at 135degrees. 

We surveyed Hobson's Bay during our stay, and connected it bytriangulation with Melbourne. Our observations were made at the inner endof a small jetty. The mouth of the Yarra-yarra is closed up by a bar, which from its soft muddy nature may be easily removed. The deepest waterwe found on it at high tide was nine feet. 

CORIO HARBOUR. 

Having completed our operations, we next morning, January 1st, 1839, departed for Corio Harbour, situated at the head of a deep inlet midwayon the western shore of Port Phillip. We found our progress impeded as webeat up it by a long spit, extending two thirds of the way across from alow projecting point lying midway on the north shore. On the oppositeside, the land is of moderate elevation, and has in many places a mostinviting rich park-like appearance, swelling on all sides into grassydowns, with patches of open woodland interspersed. In the afternoon weanchored in three fathoms, about a quarter of a mile from the south pointof Corio Harbour. This is a level expanse of land named Point Henry, fromwhich a long spit extends, leaving only a shoal channel between it andthe northern shore. Thus, though the harbour has apparently a broad openmouth, it is impossible for a large vessel to enter it. 

January 2. 

After breakfast a party of us went to visit Captain Fyans, the policemagistrate of the district, for the purpose of arranging a trip toStation Peak. We landed on the South-West corner of Corio Harbour, wherewe found four fathoms close to the beach, immediately over which is thenorth end of the township of Geelong. A kind of store and two otherwooden buildings pointed out its locality. Captain Fyans was living in alog-hut on the banks of the Marabul River. Our road thither lay westabout three miles across a woody down. 

RIVER BARWON. 

The Marabul runs to the southward, and joins the Barwon flowing from thewest; after which the united streams take a south-easterly direction. Thecourse of the latter I was anxious to trace, having seen its mouth inpassing along the coast west from Port Phillip. Very opportunely I metwith Mr. Smith, belonging to the colonial surveying department, who beingemployed in the neighbourhood, took me to a commanding station on somelow hills about three miles to the south, called by the natives Barabul. We crossed the Barwon running to the south-east at the foot of them, nearwhere it fell some height over a rocky shelf forming a pretty waterfall. Turning to the left from this roar of water, you find the streammeandering silently between rich grassy flats. On one of these Mr. Smith's tents were pitched, overlooked by a craggy height on the oppositeside of the river; and the blue stream of smoke that arose from the fireof his party, helped to impart life and beauty to the scene. From theBarabul hills I almost traced the Barwon to its confluence with the sea. Five miles to the south-east from where we stood it communicated with alarge lagoon; after leaving which, I was informed there was only a depthof three feet, and a width of one eighth of a mile. It is not, however, this alone that renders the Barwon useless for water-carriage to the townof Geelong; for the exposed situation of its mouth almost always preventsboats from entering. 

The singular sloping treeless sides of the Barabul hills, and thedeclivities of the valley of the Marabul river, bear a strikingresemblance to many parts of Eastern Patagonia. They appear as if theyhad just emerged from the sea, which had as it were scooped out theirhollows and smoothed their sides. A remarkable high round hill, perfectlybare of trees, and called by the natives Moriac, bore West 1/2 South sixmiles from where we stood. On our return we met some of the natives; theywere the first I had seen of the aborigines of this part of thecontinent, and were certainly a finer race than the people on the westerncoasts. They complained of the white men bringing animals into theircountry that scare away the kangaroo, and destroy the roots which atcertain seasons of the year form part of their sustenance. This, Mr. Smith told me, was a very general complaint. 

I spent a very pleasant evening at Captain Fyans' comfortable quarters, in the course of which arrangements were made for next day's journey toStation Peak, Mr. Smith kindly offering to lend me a horse and toaccompany me. 

STATION PEAK. 

January 3. 

We started for Station Peak very early. The morning air had adelightfully bracing effect; and the grass glittered with a copious fallof dew. The first five miles of road lay over a high down, with prettypatches of woodland interspersed; and the remaining ten over a low plainthat stretches to the foot of the peak. Six miles from the latter wecrossed a hollow where I noticed some calcareous matter, in which wereincluded shells of recent species, evidently showing that an upheaval hadtaken place in this part of the continent. We saw on the plain severallarge bustards resembling a light brown domestic turkey. 

Leaving our horses at the foot of the peak, we ascended it by a slopingridge on the south-east face. Huge blocks of granite--some poised on apoint as if the slightest touch would send them rolling and thundering tothe plains below--covered the sides and summits of this and the smallerpeak, to the north of which are several others scattered over about amile of ground. 

On reaching the summit, I hastened to a pile of stones which CaptainFlinders had erected to commemorate his visit; but, alas, the bottle andpaper left by him were gone, and I have not since been able to learn whoit was that took away this interesting and valuable record. 

VIEW FROM STATION PEAK. 

The view commanded all points of the splendid sheet of water called PortPhillip, which stretched away its shining expanse seemingly almost fromour very feet; whilst north-east two long wavy lines of trees showed thecourse of the Little and Weariby rivers meandering throughthe plain. 

The natives call this cluster of peaks Ude (great) Youang, and the otherWest-North-West seven miles, Anuke (little) Youang. Another solitary highround hill, fifteen miles further nearly, in the same direction, iscalled Bununyong. 

We have thus five native names of places in the immediate neighbourhoodof Port Phillip, having the termination ng, and we may perhaps addanother, the Barwon being probably Barwong. At King George's Sound inWestern Australia, the names end in up, and again to the eastward, nearGipps' Land, the final letter is n. These observations may probablyassist in directing the attention of philologists to the subject of thedistribution of the Australian dialects or languages. 

Ude Youang, or as Captain Flinders named it, Station Peak, is a granitemass elevated 1370 feet above the sea. At Geelong there is some confusionin the formation. The rocks, however, that prevail are trappean. 

FOSSIL SHELLS. 

In digging a well there, a fossil cowrie (Cypraea eximia) of an extinctspecies was once found at the depth of sixty feet. Another specimen ofthe same shell was dug up at Franklin village near Launceston, from ahundred and forty feet below the surface of the soil. Count Strzeleckigives a figure of it in his interesting work. 

Mr. Ronald Gunn, in his observations on the flora of Geelong, observesthat out of a hundred species of plants collected indiscriminately, sixty-seven were also to be found in Tasmania, leaving only thirty-threeto indicate the peculiarities of the Geelong vegetation. 

Some of the officers of the Beagle exhibited at this place symptoms ofbeing infected with the land-speculating mania we had witnessed atMelbourne, by bidding for some of the allotments of the township ofGeelong, which were just then selling. One that was bought for 80 poundsmight have been sold a year afterwards for 700 pounds. I mention thisfact that the reader may see what a ruinous system was then in vogue. 

ARTHUR'S SEAT. 

On the morning of January 5, we left Geelong, touched at Hobson's Bay fora chronometric departure, and proceeded to sea by the south channel. Arthur's Seat is a good guide for its entrance from Hobson's Bay, thechannel passing close under the foot of it. The eastern extremity of thenorthern banks, we found very difficult to make out, from the water beingbut slightly discoloured on it. It is, moreover, on account of itssteepness, dangerous to approach. From this eastern corner of the bank, Arthur's Seat bears South 50 1/2 degrees West and a solitary patch ofcliff, westward of the latter, South 68 degrees East. 

In consequence of bad weather it was three days before we passed throughthe channel, which, we were pleased to find navigable for line of battleships. A West 3/4 North course led through, and the least water was fivefathoms on a bar at the eastern entrance, where the width is onlythree-tenths of a mile, whilst in the western it is one mile, with adepth of seventeen fathoms. When in the latter we saw Flinders Pointbetween Lonsdale and Nepean Points, and as we came down the channel, thelast two points were just open of each other. 

PORT WESTERN. 

Leaving Port Phillip, we surveyed the coast to the eastward, and anchoredin the entrance of Port Western, after dark on the 10th. Next morning weexamined the south-west part of Grant island, and moved the ship to amore secure anchorage off its North-East point. Port Western is formedbetween Grant and French islands in rather a remarkable manner: two greatbays lie one within the other, the inner being nearly filled up by Frenchisland, whilst the outer is sheltered by Grant Island, stretching acrossit almost from point to point, and leaving a wide ship-channel on itswestern side, whilst on the eastern the passage is narrow and fit onlyfor boats and small vessels. 

Gales between North-West and South-West detained us here until the 19th. We found water by digging on the North-East extreme of Grant Island, which at high tide is a low sandy islet. On first landing there, we foundin a clump of bushes a kangaroo, very dark-coloured, indeed almost black. His retreat being cut off he took to the water, and before a boat couldreach him, sank. This not only disappointed but surprised us; for inTasmania a kangaroo has been known to swim nearly two miles. Black swanswere very numerous, and it being the moulting season, were easily rundown by the boats. Their outstretched necks and the quick flap of theirwings as they moved along, reminded us forcibly of a steamboat. At thisseason of the year when the swans cannot fly, a great act of cruelty ispractised on them by those who reside on the Islands in Bass Strait, andof whom I have before spoken as sealers: they take them in large numbersand place them in confinement, without anything to eat, in fact almoststarve them to death, in order that the down may not be injured by thefat which generally covers their bodies. 

Scarcely any traces are now to be found of the old settlement on a cliffypoint of the eastern shore of the harbour. The rapid growth of indigenousvegetation has completely concealed all signs of human industry, and thefew settlers in the neighbourhood have helped themselves to the bricks tobuild their own homes. 

We noticed, however, one or two remaining indications of the fact that asettlement had formerly existed on that spot, among others an oldflagstaff still erect, on a bluff near the North-East end of GrantIsland. A very large domestic cat, also, was seen on the South-Eastpoint, doubtless another relic of the first settlers. 

The rocks chiefly to be met with at Port Western are analogous to thoseof the Carboniferous series. Over its eastern shore rises a range ofwoody hills to the height of between five and seven hundred feet, stretching away in a North-East direction. This harbour presents one verycurious feature, namely, a sort of canal or gut in the mud flats thatfront the eastern side of Grant Island. Its depth varies from six toseven fathoms, whilst the width is half a mile. The most remarkableobject, however, is the helmet-shaped headland, rising abruptly from thesea to the height of 480 feet, and forming the South-East extreme ofGrant Island. It is the more conspicuous from the circumstance that allthe rest of the island is covered with low hills, clothed in an almostimpervious scrub. The land at the head of the inner of the two bays Ihave alluded to in describing Port Western, partakes of the samecharacter, and is intersected by a number of creeks. This greatlyincreases the difficulty of the overland communication between PortPhillip and the available land on Port Western, travellers beingcompelled to take a very circuitous road in order to avoid this almostimpassable tract, and reach the banks of Bass river, where the best soilis found, and which has been named after the enterprising man whosememory must for ever remain intimately connected with this part of theworld. 

SNAKE ADVENTURE. 

A few rare insects were collected by Mr. Emery, whose adventures withsnakes bear a great resemblance to some of Waterton's. He was walking outonce on Grant Island, when his attention was attracted by the pitifulcries of a bird in a tree close at hand. He soon discovered that a snake*was in the act of robbing the nest, whilst the mother fluttering round, was endeavouring to scare away the spoiler. Mr. Emery immediately climbedup, and with a courage which few other men would have exhibited, seizedthe reptile by the back of the neck and killed it. We found that it hadalready swallowed one of the young ones, which had so extended the skin, and made so large a lump, that we were quite puzzled to know how it couldhave been got down. 

(*Footnote. Lieutenant Emery has this snake still in his possession, stuffed in a masterly style, and set up with the bird in its mouth. )

CAPABILITIES OF PORT WESTERN. 

We were astonished to find the tide here nearly an hour later than atPort Phillip, and higher by six feet. The cause of this peculiarity is nodoubt to be attributed to the fact of the tides at Port Western beinginfluenced by the easterly flood-stream. The bad weather we experiencedduring our stay enabled us to judge of the capabilities of the Port, which we were glad to find the finest we had yet seen in Bass Strait, notso much, however, from its size, for above Grant Island the extent ofdeep water is limited, as from the great facility of access. 

On the 19th we left Port Western, passing out by keeping an isolatedpiece of tableland, called Tortoise Head, on the South-East extremity ofFrench Island, open of the North-East point of Grant Island. The onlydanger is a sandbank, lying in the centre of the channel, four mileswithin the entrance. It may always be avoided by keeping a cable's lengthfrom the eastern shore. 

The western half of the south side of Grant Island, is a line of cliffs, from one to three hundred feet in height. A remarkable pyramidal rockmarks the point where this terminates, after which a long range of lowhills, covered with scrub, stretches to Cape Wollami, the helmet-shapedheadland before-mentioned. A light North-East wind rendered our progressslow towards Cape Patterson, we reaching it by daylight of the 20th. Itis a low point, covered with scattered sand hillocks; a few rocky patcheshere and there front its sand beach. 

Finding from the succession of dense fogs that we could not prosecute aneasterly examination of the coast, we returned towards Port Phillip, andexperienced some unusual swells off Port Western. 

EXTRAORDINARY SOUNDINGS. 

The soundings were in general tolerably regular; but in the sameneighbourhood we had some extraordinary ones--SEVENTY FATHOMS, on agravelly bottom. This was nearly one third of the way across from GrantIsland to Cape Shanck, seven miles from the latter. The same strangedepth was likewise found three miles south from Cape Wollami, with thesame kind of gravel bottom, or a very fine kind of shingle. It was asingle cast of the lead. On either side in this last case were 39 and 33fathoms fine sand and shells. Had it not been for the change in thequality of the bottom, I should have doubted so great a depth, which isthe more remarkable from its being the greatest within the Strait. 

The next day towards evening we again anchored in Hobson's Bay, where westayed till the 23rd. This time in getting out of Port Phillip throughthe southern channel, we met with an accident. I have before mentionedthe difficulty of seeing the eastern part of the north bank, which, onthis occasion, combined with the dazzling effect of the sun's rays ahead, was the cause of our grounding for a short time near the inner entrance. It was, therefore, noon next day before we were again outside, when westeered across for the north end of King Island. 

January 26. 

In passing Franklin Road the next morning, we saw a cutter at anchor, doubtless the colonial vessel which is occasionally allowed to visitCaptain Smith, and afford him supplies. We passed down four miles fromthe western side of King Island, carrying an outer line of soundings, varying from 40 to 50 fathoms; and in the evening anchored in FitzmauriceBay. 

BELL ROCK. 

Next morning we proceeded in search of Bell Rock, * lying in the middle ofthe south entrance of Bass Strait, eight miles South from the northernand largest of Reid's Rocks; but there being only a light air stirringfrom the westward, we were almost wholly at the mercy of the tide, whichcarried us midway between its assigned position and the last-mentioneddangers. We passed near several small eddies and slight whirlpools, inwhich no bottom was found in the boats with 25 fathoms. The North-Westextremity of Reid's Rock might with propriety be described as a smallislet, it being a dark mass some half a mile long, and rising 25 feet outof the water. The French charts exhibit some sunken rocks to the north ofthis; but, if they really exist, of which there is great doubt, we sawnothing of them. I may here mention, that great circumspection should beused by vessels in the neighbourhood of Reid's Rocks, as the soundings donot indicate their approach, and as the tide runs among them with greatrapidity. 

(*Footnote. A rock was seen in H. M. S. Conway five miles West-South-Westfrom Bell Rock. )

BLACK PYRAMID. 

Between them and the Black Pyramid we had 35 and 32 fathoms. 

We passed the night standing to and fro close to the Pyramid, which Ihave before described as a dark rocky lump 240 feet high. Its westernside is a sombre storm-beaten cliff, whilst to the east it slopes awayalmost to the water's edge. A few patches of coarse grass may be seen onsome sheltered spots. Sealers, I am informed, have landed upon it oncertain rare occasions of fine weather, and have been repaid for theirdaring by capturing a few fur-seals from the rookery that there exists. The Black Pyramid from some points of view, greatly resembles CurtisIsland, near the eastern entrance of the Strait. A mile and a half fromits eastern side, there was only 24 fathoms, which was the least water wewere in during the night. 

January 27. 

We found ourselves at daylight in 35 fathoms, two miles South-West fromthe Pyramid, when we stood away East-South-East, to sound and have aseaward view of the entrance between Hunter Island and Point Woolnorth. This examination confirmed our former opinion that no ship-channelexisted there. But even if there had been one, the passage is so strewedwith rocks and disturbed by such heavy tide ripples, that it wears a mostdangerous appearance from the offing. 

Rounding the south side of the south Black Rock, we went between it andSteep Island in 19 fathoms. From thence we steered between the northBlack Rock and the west point of Hunter Island in 24 fathoms, having 15fathoms midway between. 

ALBATROSS ISLAND. 

Continuing our northern course, we passed a mile from the west side ofAlbatross Island, in 30 and 33 fathoms. It is a dark cliffy isle, thesummit of which although 125 feet high, appears to be sometimes washed bythe sea. There are one or two finger-shaped points of rock at the southend; and a singular split in the entire island may be seen on the bearingof North 75 degrees East. The wind had now increased to a gale from thewestward, and we were obliged to seek shelter under Hunter Island. 

January 28. 

In the morning the breeze was moderate from North-East, to which quarterit had changed suddenly during the night, veering round from west by thenorth. By noon it had shifted to East-North-East and had increased to agale. At 8 P. M. It blew a strong gale with gusts from that quarter. Thebarometer had now just begun to fall, and was at 29. 9. During the day ithad been steady at 30. 02. This gale lasted, blowing with the sameviolence (latterly from East) until 1 P. M. The next day, when after acalm of about a quarter of an hour the wind changed suddenly to Northwith rain, thunder, and vivid lightning, and by 4 P. M. Had veered to westand increased once more to a strong gale with heavy squalls. Thebarometer at the same time began to rise; it had been stationary at 29. 6since the morning. 

It was the evening of the 31st before this gale blew over, after veeringto the South-West. The barometer at the time was at 29. 9, having risen tothat height in the morning. The rotatory character of this storm, whichresembled those we had experienced on our former visit, induces me toenter thus into details respecting it. These observations, too, mayevince more plainly, the necessity of an anchorage at this time of theyear being sheltered from both east and west winds. 

FIRE ON THREE HUMMOCK ISLAND. 

The fire that had been accidentally kindled on Three Hummock Island, whenwe were last there, was still burning. This conflagration had almost beenfatal to Mr. Bynoe, who was out in the scrubs when it burst forth, havingwith great difficulty forced his way among them in search of specimensfor his collection of birds. His attention was suddenly roused by theroaring of the flames as they swept down the sides of the hills, wrappingthem in a sheet of fire. The predicament in which he was placed was amost critical one, as he hardly knew which way to turn to avoid thepressing danger. Even when, fortunately, he had taken the rightdirection, it was with the greatest exertion that he burst through thematted thicket and reached the water's edge before the fire. 

Our fishermen were very successful with the hook and line, taking nearthe rocks great numbers of fish, some of which were a species of rockcod. Alongside the ship we only caught sharks, one of which containedthirty-six young ones. 

Although the barometer remained stationery at 29. 9 the weather continuedso boisterous, and westerly squalls followed each other in such rapidsuccession, that it was the 3rd of February, before we could commencework in earnest. On that day the ship was moved to near the south end ofHunter Island, where we found a nice quiet anchorage with scarcely anytide off a long sandy beach. 

LEAVE FOR CIRCULAR HEAD. 

By the 6th we completed what remained to be done of the survey of thispart, and proceeded to collect the necessary soundings between ThreeHummock Island, and Circular Head, anchoring under the latter the sameevening. Here we met Mr. Curr, the Company's Superintendent, who wasabsent during our first visit. From him we experienced so greathospitality, that our stay appeared shorter than it really was. On themorning of the 9th we again left. It was our intention to have stood overmidway across the Strait in search of some islands reported by the Frenchto be thereabouts, though all the local information we could gain on thesubject tended to induce a disbelief of their existence. 

HEAVY GALE. 

But the sky assuming a threatening aspect, and the wind increasing fromthe westward, we sought shelter under the South-East end of RobbinIsland. And it was well we did so; for during the following two days, itblew the heaviest gale we had yet met with in the Strait. A succession ofviolent gusts from the west, with loud thunder, vivid lightning, and muchrain, constantly reminded us of the wisdom of our cautious proceeding. AtPort Phillip this same storm was felt very severely. Such was itsstrength and violence, that many houses were unroofed, and other damagedone to a large amount. It passed over both Melbourne and Geelong, darkening the air with the clouds of dust it bore along with it, andfilling the minds of the inhabitants with the greatest terror andapprehension. They called it a tornado; and it appeared to have quite therotatory character of a hurricane. 

February 11. 

We left this anchorage, and passed three miles from the North-East sideof Three Hummock Island where we found only six fathoms, apparently on abank thrown up by the tide sweeping round its sides. From thence westeered across the Strait to Sea Elephant Rock on the eastern shore ofKing Island. We saw nothing of the islands laid down by the French, thirteen leagues east of it, and it was my firm belief that they had noexistence. Subsequent observation has confirmed this belief. We howeverfound the shoal water supposed to exist thereabouts. 

The northern termination of the highland over the south-eastern part ofthe island which marks Sea Elephant Bay was very apparent as weapproached. In the evening we anchored in seven fathoms on the north sideof Sea Elephant Rock, which we visited the following morning. It isnearly a mile in circumference, and 120 feet high, clothed with a coarsewiry grass. A small vessel if properly moored might find shelter under itfrom easterly gales. We were surprised to find the time of high-waterhere nearly two hours earlier than at Three Hummock Island; theflood-stream came from the southward. 

WILD DOGS. 

Of the number of wild dogs that we had heard of as being on this island, we saw only two. From the bones we found of others it is more thanprobable that they live upon each other at the seasons of the year whenthe mutton birds having departed; they would otherwise have to dependsolely for subsistence on the few shellfish adhering to the rocks. Thisreminded me of what I once witnessed on an island off the eastern coastof Patagonia. Several herds of deer had once existed upon it; but somepersons having turned a number of dogs loose, the original inhabitantswere soon destroyed, and the newcomers afterwards devoured each other, sothat when I saw them, but a small remnant remained. The dogs on SeaElephant Rock, which were left by sealers, had grown so wild that theywould not allow us to approach them. I saw here some small penguins, abird we rarely met with in the Strait. 

This part of King Island is clothed with thick scrubs, among which we sawnumerous tracks of kangaroos, a certain sign that it is not muchfrequented by civilized or uncivilized man. Leaving this anchorage weexamined the eastern shore of the island which we found, as I have beforedescribed, to be low and sandy. Passing along two miles from it, we had adepth of from 8 to 12 and 15 fathoms. As we approached the northern end, the character of the coast changed, it being formed by rocky points withsmall sand bays intervening. The reef laid down by the French, two milesfrom the North-East extremity of the island, we found to be only half amile South-South-West from it, one of the many errors we discovered inthe French chart of the strait. It is a small ugly ledge quite beneaththe water, and from the absence of rocky points on the low sandy shore itfronts, is quite unlooked for. 

NAVARIN AND HARBINGER ROCKS. 

The next day, February 13th, we examined the dangers fronting the northside of the island, consisting of Navarin and Harbinger Rocks, neither ofwhich we found so formidable or so far from the shore as had beenreported. The former lies only a mile and a half off the north end, andalthough we did not pass between it and the shore, there is little doubtthat a passage exists. We passed between the Harbinger rocks in 27fathoms; this great depth in their immediate vicinity, gives no warningof their proximity in the night or during thick weather. 

COMPLETE THE SURVEY OF PORT PHILLIP. 

As it was now necessary for us to think of preparing for our return tothe North coast, the proper season for passing through Torres Strait alsoapproaching, and the increasing importance of Port Phillip, rendering itdesirable to complete our survey of its entrance before our departure; weconsequently proceeded thither. We found even soundings of 53 fathomsextend twenty miles North by East from Harbinger Reef, but from thencenorthwards, the depths gradually decreased. Calms and light windsrendered the passage across very tedious. We spent one night at anchor in31 fathoms near the entrance, about six miles south from Point Flinders, where the tide scarcely ran a knot an hour; the flood-stream setNorth-East. With these operations closed our work in Bass Strait, for thepresent. We had completed the western entrance from Port Western on thenorth shore and Circular Head on the south. The weather had prevented ourdoing more, and obtaining as many soundings as we could have wished. Ithad been unusually boisterous and unsettled, much more so than the wintergenerally is. From all I could learn such a season had not beenexperienced in the memory of the oldest inhabitants. 

March 1. 

Bidding adieu to our hospitable friends, we left Port Phillip, and havingspent a night at Port Western, stood out from it next morning, and passedover in 12 and 15 fathoms, the patch of discoloured water discovered byFlinders, two miles south of the remarkable round islet, that lies offthe western extreme of Grant Island. Pursuing our course to the eastward, we were detained by contrary winds for some time among the islands at theeastern entrance of the Strait. All these we found to be considerably outin position, showing the necessity of an accurate survey. We wereexceedingly delighted when on the 5th we were enabled fairly to turn ourback on Bass Strait, that region of storms, which stretched behind us aswe receded like a black mass resting on the horizon. A strongsouth-wester soon carried us far away from it in the direction we hadbeen so long endeavouring to pursue. 

At noon on the 8th, we were close in with the land in the neighbourhoodof Jervis Bay. A long line of cliffs fronts the shore; but the highlandsrecede as in the neighbourhood of Sydney, leaving a low tract of countrybetween them and the sea. 

PIGEON HOUSE. 

To the South-West of this bay, we had an excellent view of that singularlandmark, which Captain Cook, with his usual felicity in the choice ofnames, called the Pigeon House. It was just open of the south end of sometablelands, and resembled a cupola superimposed upon a large dome. 

Next day in the forenoon, we again arrived at Sydney; where we remainedfrom March 10th to May 21st, employing the time in completing our charts, sending home tracings of them, and preparing for our cruise on theNorthern coast. I was glad to find the return meridian distance betweenPort Phillip and Sydney agree with the going one, placing the jetty atWilliam's Town 6 degrees 19 minutes 14 seconds west of Fort Macquarie. 

DROUGHT AT SYDNEY. 

Everything was still suffering from one of those fearful droughts thatoccasionally visit this colony, but are as yet unknown in WesternAustralia, where the seasons are certain, although available land isscarce. An idea may be formed of the nature of this visitation, when Isay, that for some time previous to our former departure from Sydney, during the whole of our absence, and for several months subsequent to ourreturn, not a drop of rain fell. The consequence of this was, that thewhole country was dried up, and the dust lay on the roads, especiallytowards Parramatta, at least a foot thick. Whoever attempted to travel, therefore, seemed, if the wind blew, as though he had been passingthrough a mill. It will readily be imagined that so long a succession ofdry seasons, did prodigious injury to the stock, and utterly ruined thewheat crops. To add to the distress then occasioned, the people ofTasmania seizing on the opportunity, raised the price of grain, expectingto make a large profit. But their avidity in this instance over-reacheditself. Instead of sending to them for corn, the people of Sydneydespatched vessels to South America, and as the early cargoes thatarrived sold to advantage, a great deal of money was embarked in thespeculation. Soon, however, the natural consequence ensued. The marketbecame glutted, cargo after cargo came in, the purchasers held back, prices fell, and in many instances the importers were glad to dispose oftheir wheat at a rate far inferior to what it had been shipped at. I haveno doubt that the financial derangement caused by so large an amount ofbullion going out of the country (for all these cargoes were bought withready money) had much to do with the subsequent depression. 

I may here take an opportunity of remarking that, as a general rule, itis the labouring classes that thrive best at Sydney. They can intolerably prosperous times, earn sufficient in three or four days, tosupport themselves throughout the week. During the remainder of the time, the sober and industrious man employs himself in building a house; but Iam sorry to say that the generality repair to the vast number of publichouses that swarm on every side, and get drunk. This is evident from theannual revenue derived from rum, which in 1839 was 190, 000 pounds, amounting to more than seven gallons for every individual in the colony. 

MR. USBORNE LEAVES. 

It caused us extreme regret that before our departure from Sydney, wewere deprived of Mr. Usborne's valuable services. He was compelled toreturn home in consequence of the dreadful wound he had received from amusket ball, which, as has already been related, passed through his body. In him the expedition sustained a great loss; his presence and societywere missed by all; and his departure was generally felt. It may easilybe conceived indeed that the separation from a friend and messmate undersuch circumstances, must have cast for a time a shade of sadness over ourminds. Mr. Usborne took charge of the charts which we sent to England onthis occasion. 

MR. CUNNINGHAM. 

I cannot leave Sydney without alluding to our meeting with Mr. Cunningham, the Botanist, whose death I have already mentioned, as havingtaken place two months after our departure from Sydney. Though worn outby disease, and evidently on the brink of the grave, the fire ofenthusiasm kindled in his frame, and his eyes glistened as he talked ofour projected enterprise; and it was with difficulty that he could bedissuaded from accompanying us. His name, which will be remembered by hisfriends on account of his many amiable qualities, will not be forgottenby posterity; for it has become associated with the lands he explored, aswell as with the natural productions he described. The presence andattention of his valued friend Captain P. P. King, contributed to soothehis last moments. 

CHAPTER 1. 10. SYDNEY TO PORT ESSINGTON. 

Leave Sydney. Gale and Current. Port Stephens. Tahlee. River Karuah. Stroud. Wild Cattle. Incivility of a Settler. River Allyn. Mr. Boydell. Cultivation of Tobacco. A clearing Lease. William River. Crossing the Karuah at Night. Sail from Port Stephens. Breaksea Spit. Discover a Bank. Cape Capricorn. Northumberland Isles. Sandalwood. Cape Upstart. Discover a River. Raised Beach. Section of Barrier Reef. Natives. Plants and Animals. Magnetical Island. Halifax Bay. Height of Cordillera. Fitzroy Island. Hope Island. Verifying Captain King's Original Chart. Cape Bedford. New Geological Feature. Lizard Island. Captain Cook. Barrier and Reefs within. Howick Group. Noble Island. Cape Melville. Reef near Cape Flinders. Princess Charlotte's Bay. Section of a detached Reef. Tide at Claremont Isles. Restoration Island. Islands fronting Cape Grenville. Boydan Island. Correct Chart. Tides. Cairncross Island. Escape River. Correct position of Reefs. York Isles. Tides. Torres Strait. Endeavour Strait. Booby Island. Remarks on Barrier and its contiguous Islands and Reefs. Cape Croker and reef off it. Discover error in longitude of Cape. Reefs at the mouth of Port Essington. Arrive at the latter. 

May 22. 

We again bade adieu to our friends at Sydney, and sailed to explore thenorth-western part of the continent, which from the number of openingsstill unexamined, possessed the interest that invariably attaches towhatever is unknown. We submitted, accordingly, with impatience to thedelay caused by light north-westerly winds, and a southerly current ofnearly a knot per hour, which prevented us from reaching the parallel ofPort Macquarie before the 29th; when about forty miles from it weexperienced a gale, * from North-East and East-North-East, that lastedtill the evening of the next day, when we found ourselves about 140 milesSouth-East of Port Stephens. During this gale the southerly currentincreased its velocity to two miles an hour, and its strength appeared tobe about seventy miles from the land. This delay rendered it necessary toobtain a fresh chronometric departure, and as the winds prevented ourreturning to Port Jackson, we proceeded to Port Stephens, where weanchored, June 5th. We found the Admiralty chart of the coast in theneighbourhood very defective, some islands being completely omitted, whilst others were much misplaced. 

(*Footnote. This gale was from South-East at Sydney, and the most severethey had experienced for many years; it blew many vessels adrift and didother damage. )

REMARKABLE HEADLANDS. PORT STEPHENS. 

I have before spoken of the change in the features of this portion of theeastern coast. Here a number of conical hills, from four to six hundredfeet in height, suddenly presented themselves to our view, two of them, very remarkable headlands, and preserving the aboriginal names of Yacabaand Tomare, constitute the entrance points of Port Stephens. The sea-faceof Tomare is a high line of cliffs, from which projects a sand-spit, leaving only a narrow entrance. When in this I noticed that a round hillat the south end of a distant range, was over the opening between thefirst island and the northern shore of the harbour. Within the entranceare extensive sandbanks, leaving between them and the south shore anarrow, and in some parts deep, channel, subject to a rapid stream oftide. Port Stephens may be considered a large estuary, about fifteenmiles in length, contracted near the centre to a width of about a mile, which is further lessened by the presence of a woody islet, the same Ihave before alluded to. Nearly two miles within this narrow the Beagleanchored off the settlement of the Australian Agricultural Company, astraggling village called Carrington, on the western shore of theharbour. 

TAHLEE. 

On the side of a hill, half a mile to the westward, is the residence ofthe superintendent, a situation which, to enhance the pleasure of ourvisit, was held by Captain P. P. King, R. N. Tahlee, the name of this spot, surpassed in beauty all I have ever seen in Australia. It stands on thecrest of a steep grassy slope, over which are scattered numerous smallbushy lemon trees, the deep verdure of their foliage, interspersed withgolden fruit, contrasting charmingly with the light green carpet fromwhich they spring. At the foot of this declivity, a screen of treesrising to a considerable height, almost shuts out the view of the water, though breaks here and there allow small patches to be seen, athwartwhich a native canoe occasionally glides to and from the fishing grounds. These fairy boats, stealing along the water on a fine calm morning, greatly enhance the beauty of the scene. They belong to a party ofnatives who have taken up their quarters near Tahlee, and who, though byno means a fine race, have always been well disposed towards Europeans. Unfortunately they are much addicted to the use of ardent spirits, havingacquired the habit from the whalers who frequent the place. A young womanand her husband form part of the domestic establishment at Tahlee. 

We were as much delighted as surprised with the richness of thevegetation, when compared with its dry parched appearance atSydney--another of the striking contrasts characteristic of Australia. 

At Captain King's table I tasted the wonga-wonga pigeon; it is thelargest of any of the Australian kinds, and the flesh is very white andrich. It is a difficult bird to shoot, as it always keeps in the thickestfoliage, and is strong and quick on the wing. 

Through the kindness of the same friend I was also enabled to enjoy aride into the country, during the interval between the observations forrating the chronometers. 

RIVER KARUAH. 

I had to ascend the Karuah river, flowing into the north-west corner ofPort Stephens, for twelve miles, to a place called Boorral, the furthestpoint at which it is navigable, and where all goods are landed for theCompany's stations up the country. Mr. Ebsworth the treasurer of theCompany resides there in a charming cottage, almost covered with rosesand honeysuckle, and commanding two picturesque reaches of the Karuah. 

About two miles within the entrance, the river winds between high andsteep banks, densely covered with creepers, acacias, and other vegetationof a tropical character, all quite matted together, and hanging infestoons, the ends of which are immersed in the water. 

Mr. White, who had charge of the Company's stock, met me at Boorral, withhorses, and we were not long in reaching Stroud, about seven miles higherup on the eastern bank of the river. It is the head-quarters of theCompany, and has quite the appearance of a truly English village, eachcottage having its neat little garden. I was very much pleased with thewhole arrangement of the place, as I strolled through it in the evening, and was delighted to find the inhabitants of a remote part of Australia, retaining such vivid recollection of tastes so characteristic ofEnglishmen. Several experiments had been tried in clearing the land inthe neighbourhood of Stroud, one of which was by what they call ringingthe trees; that is to say, they cut off a large circular band of bark, which, destroying the trees, renders them easier to be felled. But thedanger of this practice was, that in stormy weather they were blown down, thereby endangering the lives of persons or stock passing. In thethickets near Stroud, great numbers of the Lyre Bird are found. Theyreceive their names from the shape of their tails, which one could hardlysuppose so small a bird, having no other beauty, could possess. 

TRIP UP THE COUNTRY. 

At Mr. White's hospitable cottage, I met two gentlemen on their way tothe Hunter river, and as fortunately the route I proposed taking, lay inthat direction, we started together early the next morning. Crossing theKaruah, our road for some distance lay over a rugged country, along awinding path between very steep hills. Six miles West-South-West fromStroud, we passed through a range trending North-West from two to threethousand feet high, the debris from which enrich the flats of the Karuahon its eastern, and the Williams river on its western side. Our guideamused me by pointing to some of the steep parts of the range which hehad galloped down, while hunting wild cattle, the most useful andexciting sport known in Australia--useful, inasmuch as it prevents thewild cattle from coming down to the plains and enticing away the tameherds; and exciting, from the rough nature of the country, in which thesport is pursued. 

WILD CATTLE. 

The wild cattle invariably keep on high ranges, and from their acutenessof smell, are difficult to get at, and it is only to leeward that one canapproach them. The bulls being the leaders of the herds are alwayssingled out, and after a desperate and trying gallop over a ruggedcountry, the huntsman finds himself going stride for stride alongside oneof these Kings of the Forest, and wondering how an animal so ungainly inhis gait, can get over the country at such a pace. Jumping over fallentrees, and dodging round others, he at last finds himself on a clearspot, when drawing a pistol from his holster, and riding up so as almostto touch the animal's side, he lodges a well directed ball just behindthe fore shoulder. This is the most critical moment. Great command ofyour horse is required, for the bull, if not mortally wounded, turnssuddenly half mad with rage on his pursuer, and puts his nerves andjudgment to a severe test. 

On these occasions almost incredible feats of horsemanship are performed;and nearly precipitous slopes are descended. I have seen similar exploitsnowhere but in Chile, where horses are ridden down the sides of frightfulravines on their haunches at half speed for bets; but in that country theseverity of the bit gives the rider a power over his steed unknownelsewhere. 

INCIVILITY OF A SETTLER. 

We crossed the Williams river, about fifteen miles South-West fromStroud, and after nearly another hour's ride came to a place calledWallaroba. I was here doomed to experience the only instance ofincivility I ever found in Australia. It was late in the afternoon of acold blustering day, and having breakfasted early, we were prompted totest the hospitality of a Mr. Chapman, whose station we were passing. Itwas the only one we had seen during the day, and knowing the possibilityof our being mistaken for bush-rangers, * we turned back our rough coats, and rode up to the house as smart as we could make ourselves. We met theowner standing in the gateway of the garden fronting the house, which henearly filled; but although presenting a John Bull's exterior, there wasa great deficiency of the national character within. After introducingourselves we asked for a little milk, but were refused on the plea thatthere was none at the station. Our surly informant added, that we shouldfind a comfortable inn eight miles farther on. First looking at thenumber of fine milch cows that were grazing near, and then at thespeaker, we turned and left him in silent disgust. 

(*Footnote. Escaped convicts, who live by plundering the settlers, takingalso their lives if any resistance is offered. I remember on oneoccasion, a party of gentlemen had their horses taken from them: one ofthem was of great value, and the owner thought he would try an experimentto recover him, by saying in a jocular manner, that he would tie a cardwith his address round the animal's neck, in order that when done withthey might know where to return him. Strange to say his experimentsucceeded, as the horse was sent back a short time afterwards. )

We passed the night at the inn to which we had been directed, and nextmorning I separated from my companions, our roads being different. Therehad been a hoar frost during the night, and the morning was delightfullybracing. About ten miles in a North-West direction, brought me to the endof my journey at Cam yr Allyn, the residence of Mr. Boydell. A few milesfrom this place, I passed the house of a Mr. Townsend, the road close towhich was literally through a garden of roses, which in the freshness ofthe morning, diffused a delicious fragrance. 

Mr. Boydell's residence is on a rich spot of ground, on the banks of theAllyn river, which runs among the spurs of a range of hills, trendingNorth-North-West, and distant about six miles to the eastward, where itattains an elevation of three or four thousand feet. 

SAGACITY OF THE HORSE. 

The country in the neighbourhood is very hilly, and intersected by deepnarrow valleys or ravines. I was very much amused by the sagacitydisplayed by the horses in crossing these. They make a point, as soon asthey get near the bottom on one side, of dashing down at a mosttremendous pace, in order to gain an impetus that shall carry them up theopposite acclivity. The first time the animal I rode exhibited thisinstance of forethought, I imagined he was about to run away with me; forsuddenly, without giving the least warning, he made a rush in a downwarddirection and was across the valley before I could look round. 

All the hills in this part of the country, showed singular sloping sidesto the South-West, whilst on the opposite, they were almostperpendicular; old red sandstone is generally found on their sides, andgranite on their summit. On the Allyn, I noticed the same kind of richlimestone, that I found on the west bank of the Karuah, two miles withinthe entrance. These two spots are about thirty miles apart. The rocks inthe valley of the Karuah belong to the transition series, and on theshore of Port Stephens, they consist of porphyry, basalt, and greenstone. 

An instance here came under my own observation of the beneficial resultswhich sometimes arise from the punishment of transportation; knowing thedifficulty of getting good servants, I was curious to learn how Mr. Boydell had procured his excellent butler, and on inquiry was surprisedto learn that he had been sent out for robbing Madame Vestris of herjewels. 

CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO. 

Mr. Boydell was cultivating tobacco to some considerable extent, with thehope of being able to supply the colony; others who speculated on alarger scale were ruined; for it soon turned out that it was impossibleto compete in cheapness with American tobacco. This was in consequence ofthe extensive establishment required on the estate--the large dryingsheds that had to be erected, the number of coopers necessary, and thegeneral high price of labour. 

Mr. Boydell was also cultivating the vine, of which he made a light kindof wine, a very excellent species of hock. The Messrs. McArthurs havebeen at great expense in promoting this branch of cultivation, and areentitled to their share of credit. But to Mr. Bushby the colony owes thefirst introduction of the grape, which will hereafter prove ofinestimable benefit, from the great commerce to which it must give rise. I may here mention that the same gentleman has deserved highly of hisfellow-colonists, by having been the means of bringing good water fromsome distance into Sydney. The importance of this to the town was veryapparent even to us transient visitors, from the crowd of water carts weconstantly saw during the severe drought, patiently waiting their turn tofill from the pump in Hyde Park. 

I was fortunate enough to find two gentlemen to return with ascompanions, from Cam yr Allyn, which we left early, under the guidance ofa native, mounted on one of Mr. Boydell's horses. We were to have made ashort cut by crossing the hilly country; but after going some distance wefound our guide at fault, and he very innocently acknowledged himself tobe, as he termed it, "murry stupid. " It was a long time, he said, sincehe had travelled that way. Having however provided myself with a sketchof the country and a compass, I was enabled to conduct the party out ofthis dilemma. 

A CLEARING LEASE. 

On reaching the banks of William river, we inquired our way at a cottage, whose occupants, I found, held a small piece of land on what is called aclearing lease--that is to say, they were allowed to retain possession ofit for so many years, for the labour of clearing the land. Many anindustrious poor man is raised to opulence by this means, a pair of oxenbeing all that is necessary to set them going. With them they drag awaythe fallen timber, and afterwards plough the land. It is astonishing tosee what work oxen will do; they drag drays over almost incrediblesteeps, not quartering them as horses do, but going straight up, be thehills ever so steep. 

We learnt here that the township of Dungog, through which our road toStroud lay, was close by. We should readily know it, we were informed, bythe lock-up, a place of confinement for misbehavers, and generally thefirst building in Australian towns. The particular erection alluded to, seemed to be well known in the neighbourhood. As we crossed the Williamriver I was much struck with the richness of the flats on its banks. 

CROSSING THE KARUAH. 

In fording the Karuah, just before reaching Stroud, the effect wassingular and startling. The thick foliage arching over the river, quiteshut out the little light the stars afforded, and as we had to descendinto it, down a very steep bank, it was like plunging into a darkbottomless pit; the noise of the stream over the stones alone told us weshould find a footing below. Into this gloomy cave our party one by onedescended, the foremost calling out when he had reached the bottom, thatthe way was clear, and hastening across to prevent the horseman whofollowed from being carried by the impetus into contact with him. Waitingmy turn upon the verge of the bank, I contemplated with pleasure theheavy masses of the forest stretching like dark shadows behind me, and onthe other side, the long winding line of verdure at my feet, from beneathwhich rose the splashing, rippling, gushing sound of the stream, whilstoverhead, the vault of heaven was thick inlaid with patterns of brightgold. But the plunge of my companion's horse in the water, and his voicecalling out that all was right, soon drew me away, and in another momentI was fording in utter darkness the rapid though shallow stream of theKaruah. 

We passed the night at Stroud, and next morning started for PortStephens. There having been some delay in getting my horse, I was obligedto push over the first seven miles in little more than a quarter of anhour, the postman having waited for me over his time. 

PORT STEPHENS. 

On the 15th, the requisite observations were obtained for rating thechronometers, which we found had altered their rates in a most singularmanner; so much so, that in spite of the short interval that had elapsedsince our departure from Sydney, we found the resulting meridian distancebetween that place and Port Stephens, to be very defective. This factillustrates the unaccountable changes that sometimes occur in the ratesof chronometers, and the necessity of repeated measures of difference oflongitude to arrive at the truth. 

On the morning of the 16th we again sailed for the North coast with afine southerly wind. 

June 19. 

At noon, when in 30 fathoms, with coarse sand bottom, we saw Indian Head, bearing North-North-West 10 miles, it is a dark cliffy point; but thereis another more remarkable in the shape of a quoin, three or four milesto the northward. At 8 P. M. , we were in the same depth, Sandy Cape, sonamed by Cook for its being a low point streaked with patches of whitesand, bearing West-South-West eight miles. As it was now blowing veryhard from East-South-East, with constant squalls and thick rainy weather, the ship was brought to the wind under snug sail, for the night. 

June 20. 

At daylight we were in 18 fathoms, the outer elbow of Breaksea Spit, bearing South-East by South three miles. 

LARGE SHARK. 

It was when anchored under this Spit that in H. M. S. Britomart, amonstrous shark was caught, about twenty feet long, in which were foundthe bones of some very large animal, possibly those of a bullock, thathad been carried out to sea by some current. Steering North-North-West wedeepened the water in eight miles to 32 fathoms, and after rounding thenorthern extremity of Breaksea Spit, which appeared to be formed of a fewdetached breakers, steered West by North for Bustard Bay. In 28 fathoms, with fine sand, we passed three miles south of Lady Elliott's Island, asmall level spot about seventy feet high, fringed with a coral reef, particularly to the South-East, and forming the south eastern isle ofBunker's Group. It was first seen at the distance of seven miles from theBeagle's poop, the height of the eye being fifteen feet, and at thatnumber of miles east of it we had thirty fathoms. The weather was stillvery hazy, but the wind had subsided to a light breeze fromEast-North-East. After passing Breaksea Spit, a westerly current was feltof nearly a knot an hour, which was also found to be the case in June, 1841. 

June 21. 

The morning was bright and sunny, a happy change after several days ofthick, rainy, and boisterous weather. The remarkable features in thispart of the coast, consisting of Round Hill, * Peaked Hill, and MountLarcom, stood out in bold relief against the pure blue of an Australiansky. 

(*Footnote. This hill was seen 35 miles from the Beagle's poop, and is agood guide for Bustard Bay. Peaked Hill we found to be 2000 feet high, and Mount Larcom 1800. They form admirable points for fixing the positionof the groups of isles fronting this part ofthe coast. )

CORAL BANK. 

In the evening steering North-West by West we passed over a coral bankthree miles wide, the least water on which was nine fathoms. From thisdepth we procured a specimen of living coral. This bank was again crossedin June, 1841, a mile and a half further to the South-West, when thedepth was only seven fathoms. It lies eight miles South-South-West from alow islet, four miles from which in a West-South-West direction is acoral patch, nearly dry. This islet, in latitude 23 degrees 34 minutesSouth to which we gave the name of Mast Head, forms the south-western ofa group fronting Cape Capricorn. The latter has a hump on its extreme, resembling a haycock, and by our observations* is in latitude 23 degrees30 minutes 30 seconds South, which is two miles south of its position inthe chart. As we were detained by light winds in the neighbourhood, I hadmore than one opportunity of detecting this error. By midnight we wereabout 18 miles North by West from Cape Capricorn, when we felt a swellfrom the eastward, which assured me there was an opening in the reefs onthe north side of the group of islets fronting the Cape. 

(*Footnote. Hummock Island is alike in error with Cape Capricorn, but allthe distant points agree with the Beagle's observation. )

FLAT ISLAND. 

June 22. 

There was a light air from South-West till near noon, then one fromseaward which freshened and became in the afternoon steady at South-East, a quarter it afterwards prevailed from. We were at the time passing aboutthree miles from Flat Island, in 27 fathoms, an increase in the soundingswe had but just got into. We were glad to find the ship's position, fixedby points both far and near, agree with the observations, a fact I canonly account for here, from the circumstance, that Flinders laid down thecoast about Port Bowen by observations on shore, whereas that in theneighbourhood of Cape Capricorn, was from those made with the sea-horizonwhich he found differ very materially. 

During the day we added to the chart the position of two peaks, 1900 feethigh, lying about 20 miles South-West by West from Cape Manifold, andforming the northern end of a high rocky range. A current was alsonoticed setting north a mile an hour. The entrance of Port Bowen boreWest-South-West 15 miles at midnight, when the depth was 30 fathoms. 

NORTHUMBERLAND ISLES. 

June 22. 

From thence we steered to pass between Number 1 and Number 2 of theNorthumberland Isles, in order that we might lay down their outlinescorrectly, and also determine the positions of some small islets lying onthe South-West side of Number 1. The most remarkable land in sight in themorning was Mount Westall, named by Flinders after the talented artistwho accompanied him, and which forms the highest part of the easternshore of Shoalwater Bay. The soundings during the night were veryregular, only varying from 30 to 33 fathoms with a soft muddy bottom, mixed occasionally with which the lead brought up small stones. Thesummit of Number 1 of the Northumberland Isles forms a remarkable peak720 feet high; a sandy bay on the west side promised good anchorage, andon its south-east and northern sides were some high detached rocks. Theheights of the other parts of the group vary from two to six hundredfeet. The crests of the western isles are covered with pine trees, whichgive them a curious jagged appearance. In the afternoon we passed in 34fathoms four miles from the eastern side of the Percy Isles, whichenabled us to add their eastern extremity in the chart. The mainlandfalling so much back soon after passing Port Bowen, we could form no ideaof its character, but certainly what we had seen did not leave afavourable impression of its apparent fertility. 

SANDALWOOD. 

Captains Flinders and King, having given a description of the PercyIsles, it willnot be necessary for me to say anything about them, further than thatthey are composed of a trap-like compound with an aspect of serpentine, and that either on them or the Northumberland Isles, sandalwood has beenfound of late, and taken by a Tasmanian vessel to the China market. Justbefore dark, the soundings decreased to 29 fathoms, Pine Peak of PercyGroup, bearing South-West 10 miles. Our course was now shaped for CapeGloucester, the extreme of the Cumberland Isles; and about this time wefelt the flood-tide setting South-West by West nearly a knot an hour, asure indication of there being openings in the barriers in thatdirection. The great distance at which this part of it lies from theislands will render its examination a difficult and hazardousundertaking. The night was anything but favourable for sailing amongislands, being very hazy, with passing rain squalls. At midnight wepassed nearly two miles from the North-East side of k of the CumberlandGroup, in 27 fathoms, in which depth we continued till getting abreast ofPentecost Island, the next evening, the 24th, when it increased to 35fathoms, but still on the same kind of green sandy mud bottom. At 10 P. M. We passed about seven miles from Cape Gloucester, which at that part wasnearly 1600 feet high. Yet the night was so hazy, that it was onlyvisible at intervals. Here we noticed many ripplings which we afterwardsfound indicated a North-North-West current of a knot and a half an hour, caused no doubt by the proximity of a part of the barrier, the distancebetween it and Cape Gloucester being only 13 miles. I may here observethat the barometer was very high with these fresh South-East winds andhazy weather, and rather low during the light North-West winds weexperienced in the neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn. 

CAPE UPSTART. 

June 25. 

At daylight the Beagle was a few miles east of Cape Upstart, in 17fathoms, having passed two miles from the north side of Holborn Island, in 28 fathoms. The above headland received its name from Captain Cook, and peculiarly deserves it, appearing in fact from the lowness of theland behind, actually to start up out of the water. 

Chronometers being chiefly affected by changes of temperature, it wasnecessary to ascertain the rates of those in the Beagle again beforereaching Port Essington, for a correct measurement of the difference ofmeridians between that place and Port Stephens. The bay on the west sideof Cape Upstart had been recommended by Captain King for that purpose, ashe had considered it likely to be the mouth of an opening. Thisconjecture the low land in the head of the bay, together with a singularbreak in the distant hills seemed fully to justify. We accordinglyentered the bay and anchored half a mile within the North-East point. This took us till the afternoon to reach, in consequence of our having alight land breeze until 3 P. M. When it became steady from North-East, drawing round to south, after sunset, and veering to South-West again inthe morning. This alternation of land and seabreezes continued during ourstay, for three or four successive days. 

In the evening we landed and ascended the North-East extremity of theCape, from whence we saw at once that hopes of discovering any openingwere delusive, the low shores of the Bay could be traced all round, except in the North-West corner, where a point shut out our view. 

EXPLORATION OF A RIVER. 

On sweeping the western shore with a spyglass, I discovered the mouth ofa river about a mile to the north of a hillock marked in Captain King'schart. This river was made the object of an exploring party, and next dayCaptain Wickham and Lieutenant Eden, went on that interesting service. Ithas two entrances, both very shallow, and is of little importance, beingon a lee shore and fronted by a bar, which seems to break at all times ofthe tide. However, as there is such very safe anchorage near, thediscovery may hereafter prove of some value. Captain Wickham found itfresh ten miles from the entrance, but at that point it is nearly lost inthe sands, and so very shallow that the natives have a fishing weiracross it. The land, which appears to be much cut up with creeks, is veryflat on both sides, and is subject to inundations. This was evident fromthe signs of drift, to the height of six feet, on the trees that grewalong the banks, themselves not more than a couple of yards abovehigh-water mark. 

The exploring party saw a few natives, but they were too shy tocommunicate. One was discovered on a long flat, crawling on his hands andknees, to catch a glimpse of the strange intruders, and looking more likea great insect than a man. In the distance up the river a good manysmokes appeared; but I doubt whether this may be considered as denoting adensely populated country, as fires are kindled by the Australiannatives, both as signals and for the purposes of hunting. 

GEOLOGICAL QUERIES. 

Previous to my departure from England, I had the pleasure of hearing avaluable paper by my friend Mr. Darwin, on the formation of coralislands, * read at the Geological Society; my attention being thusawakened to the subject, the interest of this important paper was to megreatly enhanced by a series of queries, kindly furnished by Mr. Darwin, and drawn up with a view to confirm or invalidate his views, his purposebeing to elicit truth from a combination of well attested facts, and byinducing the research of others to further the objects of science. 

Among these queries was the following: "Are there masses of coral or bedsof shells some yards above high water mark, on the coast fronting thebarrier reef?"

(*Footnote. See also the Hydrographer's Instructions supra. )

RAISED BEACHES. 

Captain King, in answer to the above states, that some of the islandswithin the reef have beaches of broken coral; and, as an instance, herefers to Fitzroy island. 

I will, myself, here adduce what may be deemed an important fact; andwhich, if allowed its due weight, will go far to weaken the argumentsbrought forward in favour of the subsidence of the North-East coast ofAustralia. I found a flat nearly a quarter of a mile broad, in a quietsheltered cove, within the cape, thickly strewed with dead coral andshells, forming, in fact, a perfect bed of them--a raised beach of twelvefeet above high-water mark. On the sandy beach fronting it, also a fewfeet above high-water mark, was a concretion of sand and dead coral, forming a mass about fifty yards long. Fronting this, for about the widthof one hundred and fifty feet, was a wall of coral with two feet water onit; and immediately outside, five fathoms, with a fine sandy bottom, slightly sloping off. The annexed woodcut will better explain what wehave here endeavoured to bring before the reader. 

SECTION OF THE COAST. 

This small coral-strewed flat where our observations were made, and theresults of which are as follows; latitude 19 degrees 42 3/4 minutesSouth; longitude 15 degrees 36 1/2 minutes East of Port Essington, issurrounded by an amphitheatre of hills. Had it been on the seaward sideof the Cape, I might have been readier to imagine that it could have beenthrown up by the sea in its ordinary action, or when suddenly disturbedby an earthquake wave; but as the contrary is the case, it seemedimpossible to come to any other conclusion, than that an upheaval hadtaken place. The whole of Cape Upstart is a granite mass, and its crestsare covered with boulders, some of which have rolled down and form ratherconspicuous objects on the shores and points of the bay. 

PUMICE STONE. 

Near the North-West extremity of the Cape just at high-water mark, Inoticed some pumice stones, small and not having the appearance ofbelonging to a recent eruption, which seems to agree with the opinionexpressed by the Reverend W. G. Clarke in the Tasmanian Journal. Heconsiders, and I think justly, that its origin may be in the Solomon, NewCaledonia, or some other of the volcanic islands to the east ofAustralia, from whence it drifted, as it has been found on all parts ofthe coast, to the southern portion of which it has doubtless been carriedby the current. Captain Wickham did not remark any above the entrance ofthe river he explored, on the western side of the bay, which bears outthe opinion I have above expressed. A curious fact, mentioned by Mr. Clarke is, that one piece, perfectly water-worn, was found upon a highmountain, full twenty-five miles inland from the mouth of Clarence River. Was this carried thither by one of the natives, or does it indicate thatpumice drifted to this part of the continent at a time when, if ever, itwas on a level with the ocean? I further remarked in this place, many ofthe land shells common to this and other parts of the coast. 

There was great difficulty in attaining the loftiest point of the Cape, which I found to be two thousand feet high. From thence our partycommanded a view of the whole of the bay, and discovered that we were, strictly speaking, standing upon an island, a small creek winding roundthe southern foot of the high land, and connecting the bays on theeastern and western side of Cape Upstart. 

The break in the hills seen by Captain King, and supposed to indicate anopening, has been already alluded to. On reaching the summit I found thatthis was merely a valley, containing the head of the plain whichstretched from the shores of the bay. On its southern side rose MountAbbott; but one of the most remarkable features on the coast is MountElliott, lying about forty-five miles West and by North from ourposition. It is a long level hill, with a peak at its northern extremity. All those in the neighbourhood, as far as I could judge with thespyglass, seemed to be of the same formation with Cape Upstart. 

We found this a convenient stopping-place for vessels making the innerpassage, wood and water being easily procured. The latter is found in aconsiderable reservoir fed by two streams from the high land of the Cape, lying a mile within the mouth of the bay. From appearances, I should sayit would yield an abundant supply at any season of the year. 

NATIVES SURPRISED. 

There were a few natives loitering about on Cape Upstart when we arrived;and I think we should have communicated with them had it not been for thefright into which they were accidentally thrown. A boat's crew on landingsurprised a small party, which instantly dispersed in various directions. A lad, however, instead of escaping with the rest, stowed himself away ina crack between two boulders of granite. Every endeavour was made to gethim to come out of his hidingplace; biscuit was offered him, but hesnapped savagely with his teeth at the hand that held it. Finding allattempts fruitless he was left; and no doubt, the account he gave hiscomrades of us, while under the influence of fright, was sufficientlyterrible to take them all away from the neighbourhood. These natives usednets similar to those I had seen on the North-West coast, and in theirmake, resembling, in a remarkable manner, the ones employed by Europeans. 

PLANTS AND ANIMALS. 

In the valley, just within Cape Upstart, a few palms and a species ofcotton were growing; and in other places, the never-failing Eucalyptus, of small growth. Certain bulbs* were also found, apparently of the samespecies as those on the Percy Isles; several of which we removed andpresented to the Botanical Garden at Sydney, where we afterwards had thegratification of seeing them in a flourishing state. 

(*Footnote. Crinum angustifolium. They belong to the Narcissus, but arein themselves a new order of plant. )

A few quails were shot of the same large kind as that found on all otherparts of the continent, also one or two pheasant cuckoos. * They did notdiffer from those we killed on the North-West coast, although nearly fivedegrees further south. A very large pigeon was also shot, resembling incolour the common blue rock, but without a bronze mark. We had not seenthis species before; it was a very wary bird, and was found in the rocks. 

(*Footnote. Centropus phasianellus. Gould. )

NEW KANGAROO. 

But the greatest prize our sportsmen shot was a specimen of a smallfemale kangaroo, of a new kind. *

(*Footnote. Deposited in the British Museum, and figured as Petrogaleinanata, by Mr. Gould, who being misinformed, has described it asinhabiting the north coast of Australia. )

It measured as follows, just after it was killed: Length of body from tipof nose, 18 inches; length of tail from stump to tip, 19 inches; weight 81/2 pounds. Its colour was a slate or light grey on the back, and dirtyyellow or light brown on the belly; extreme half of tail black, with hairgradually increasing in length, from the centre to the tip andterminating in a tuft. On the back of the hind legs the hair is longerthan on any other part of the body. The nails on the hind feet wereshort, covered with long hair, and did not project over the pulpy part ofthe foot, which is well cushioned and rough, giving a firm hold toprojecting rocks. The head was small, and sharp towards the muzzle; theears were short and slightly rounded, the eyes black, and the forearmsvery short. In this animal the pouch was very superficial. It inhabitsthe most rugged summits, taking refuge in the clefts of the rocks. 

June 30. 

In the afternoon we left the anchorage we had been the first to occupy, and standing out of the bay, were much struck by the rugged outline CapeUpstart presents. The huge boulders scattered over the crest of thehills, give it the appearance of a vast mass of ruins, the clearatmosphere bringing it out in bold relief against the sky. We stood overNorth-West for the opposite shore, and closing to within three miles ofthe land changed our course and ran along the singular low point formingthe coastline to the North-West of Cape Upstart; and by 9 P. M. Roundedits northern extreme called Cape Bowling Green, at a distance of sixmiles, in 17 fathoms, steering then to pass about four miles outside thePalm Isles. During the whole night our soundings only varied from 17 to19 fathoms. 

MAGNETICAL ISLAND. 

The weather was gloomy with passing showers of rain and a moderateSouth-South-East breeze; but all was bright again by daylight (July 1st)when Magnetical Island bore South 9 degrees West, and the south andlargest of the Palm Isles North 81 degrees West, which, correspondingwith the log, showed there had been no current during the night. Magnetical Island was so named by Cook, because he fancied it affectedthe Endeavour's compass in passing it. There is good anchorage on thewest side, where it is densely covered with trees, amidst which a fewstraggling pines reared their lofty and angular-shaped heads, giving bytheir variety a picturesque appearance to the scene. * We passed the PalmIslands early in the forenoon. The largest we found to be 750 feet high, with a remarkable white rock off its South-East extreme. 

(*Footnote. See the view annexed. )

THE CORDILLERA. 

Behind these isles we saw numerous blue streaks of smoke from the firesof the natives, indicating the state of population on the slope of thatlofty range of hills, which may be called the Cordillera of EasternAustralia, and which at this point, tower to a great height, overlookingthe coast. * We were abreast about noon of its most remarkable feature, Mount Hinchinbrook, in latitude 18 degrees 22 minutes South, rising tothe height, according to our observations, of 3500 feet. 

(*Footnote. The proximity of this high land to the coast, may account forthe gloomy weather of the previous night. )

Although a number of fires being once seen is not always a sign inAustralia of a densely populated part of the country, yet when they areconstantly visible, as in this part of the continent, it is fair toinfer, that the inhabitants are numerous, and the soil fertile. I mightfurther remark, that Captain King found the natives well disposed; and atGoold Island, in this neighbourhood, they even came on board his vesseluninvited, an evidence of friendship and confidence, rarelycharacterizing a race of beings so wary as are generally the inhabitantsof Australia. 

It is not a little singular that the altitude of Mount Hinchinbrookshould be identical with what Strzelecki considers the mean height of theCordillera, which he traced continually on foot, from 31 to 44 degreesSouth latitude giving to the highest point, 6500 feet in latitude 36degrees 20 minutes South, the name of Mount Kosciusko, for reasons mostadmirably and feelingly expressed, and which we therefore, in justice tohis patriotic sentiments, give below in his own words. * It will thus beseen that there is a northerly dip in the cordillera of 3000 feet in 18degrees of latitude. 

(*Footnote. "The particular configuration of this eminence struck me soforcibly, by the similarity it bears to a tumulus elevated in Krakow, over the tomb of the patriot Kosciusko, that although in a foreigncountry, on foreign ground, but amongst a free people, who appreciatefreedom and its votaries, I could not refrain from giving it the name ofMount Kosciusko. ")

The great height of this range, and the extreme abruptness of its easternface, where no waters are thrown off, renders it more than probable thaton the western side there is land of great fertility. Whatever watersoriginate on its summit and slopes, must flow towards the interior, andthere give rise to rivers emptying themselves into the Gulf ofCarpentaria, or by first forming lagoons, feed streams of some magnitudeeven, during their overflow. 

HALIFAX BAY. 

It is the general opinion of every voyager who has sailed along the coastof Halifax Bay, that it is the most interesting portion of the north-eastside of the continent; as, combining the several facts which we haveabove given, we have every reason to believe that the discovery offertile and therefore valuable land, will one day reward the labours ofthe explorer. 

Nothing was seen by us of the San Antonio reef, laid down in the chartsas fronting the Palm Isles; but this was subsequently accounted for byCaptain Stanley, who found that it was sixteen miles north of itssupposed position, being in latitude 18 degrees 17 minutes South, andtwenty-four miles distant from the nearest land, Hillock Point. 

This fact is the more satisfactory and important that, from its presentposition, as laid down in the chart, being supposed to be near the PalmIslands, it was apt to create an unpleasant state of anxiety in the mindof those navigating these waters during thick weather or at night. 

From noon we steered North-North-West, and at 6 P. M. Dunk Island boreSouth-West eight miles distant; our soundings varying, during thatperiod, from thirteen to fifteen fathoms. During the day we had severalopportunities of satisfactorily testing the accuracy of Captain King'schart. While passing Barnard's Group, soon after dark, we found a currentsetting West-North-West nearly a mile an hour, a rate at which it keptduring the whole night, but in a North-North-West direction. During theday we had a light breeze from South-South-East, which shifted toWest-South-West during the night. Numerous native fires were observedburning on the shore during the first watch, at the foot of the BellendenKer hills, remarkable mountains of considerable altitude. 

FITZROY ISLAND. 

July 2. 

Soon after midnight we were abreast of Frankland Group, and at 7 A. M. Passed three miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island, where our soundingsincreased to seventeen fathoms, with a current running upwards of a milean hour to the North-West, an increased velocity, which may be accountedfor by the proximity of the reefs to a projection of the coast formingCape Grafton. I must not, however, pass an island which like Fitzroy, carried in its name a pleasing association to many on board the Beagle, without a word of notice, particularly as its features are in themselvessufficiently remarkable, having a singular peaked summit 550 feet high, near the north-east end. On the western side is a little cove whereCaptain King found snug anchorage. 

REEF NEAR LOW ISLES. 

Passing midway between Green Island, which is about twenty feet high, encircled with a coral reef, and Cape Grafton, we steered North-West 1/2North for a shoal on which Her Majesty's Ship Imogene grounded; and atnoon, were exactly on the spot, in latitude 16 degrees 24 1/4 minutesSouth by observations and bearings of the land, Low Isles beingWest-North-West four miles. Here we found sixteen fathoms, not having hadless than seventeen since the morning. There was no appearance of anysuch reef nearer than that laid down by Lieutenant Roe, bearing east fromthe above-mentioned Low Isles and under which Her Majesty's Ship Tamaranchored. It must therefore have been on the North-West part of this reefthat the Imogene struck, and the south part must be the reef laid down inthe chart as having been seen by her to the southward, which accounts forour not seeing it from the Beagle. We passed through several patches ofdiscoloured water, caused by washings from reefs to windward, which arevery deceptive. At sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen fathoms, forthe first time since leaving Port Stephens. The south point of Weary Baybore West-North-West three miles, and Cape Tribulation South by East sixmiles. Near the middle of the former, I noticed a patch of discolouredwater, which has since been found by a merchant vessel to be a shoal. 

HOPE ISLANDS. 

The land over the latter place is very high, presenting several singularpeaks, one more prominent than the rest, in the shape of a finger. Thatover Trinity Bay, which we were the greater part of the day crossing, isalso of great altitude. In its south corner we noticed the river-likeopening spoken of by Captain King, lying in the rear of some remarkablepeaks. We had been informed by him, that the greater part of the coastbetween Weary Bay and Endeavour River, including the Hope Islands, hadbeen altered from his original survey, a tracing of which he hadfurnished us with previous to leaving Sydney. The few bearings weobtained while at anchor, induced us to consider it correct, a fact wefurther proved during the early part of the next day's run, as the coursesteered from our anchorage North by West 1/2 West, carried us a littlemore than a mile west of the Hope Islands. Had their assigned position inthe chart been correct, our course would have led us right over thewestern isle. On detecting this error, we found it necessary to re-surveythis part of the coast, and it affords me much pleasure, after so doing, to be able to bear testimony to the extreme correctness of Captain King'soriginal chart above alluded to. Soon after passing the Hope Islands, wesaw the reef where Cook's vessel had so miraculous an escape, aftergrinding on the rocks for 23 hours, as graphically described in hisvoyages. It is called Endeavour Reef, from this circumstance. 

CAPE BEDFORD. 

Continuing on the same course, we passed three miles from Cape Bedford, at 4 P. M. This is one of the most remarkable features on the coast, beinga bluff detached piece of tableland, surmounted by a singular low line ofcliffs, reminding me forcibly of the lava-capped hills on the river SantaCruz, in eastern Patagonia. As far as I could judge, by the aid of a goodglass, it seemed to be composed of a mixture of red sand and ironstone, of a very deep red hue, bearing a great similarity to the country on theNorth-West coast, in latitude 15 1/4 degrees South. 

Leaving Cape Bedford, we went in search of a shoal laid down by H. M. S. Victor, as lying two miles to the West-South-West of Three Isles. BothCaptain King and Lieutenant Roe had expressed a doubt of its existence inthe position marked, a doubt which our researches fully justified; andtherefore, as it at present stands, it should be expunged from the chart. From thence we steered north for Lizard Island, the remarkable peak onwhich soon rose in sight; this course took us within three miles of CapeFlattery, where a couple of peaks, with a slope between them, render it aconspicuous headland. 

About seven miles west from thence, there is a strange alteration in theappearance of the country, changing from moderately high conical-shapedhills, to lofty table ranges about 500, or 600 feet in height, trendingabout South-West and by West. 

LIZARD ISLAND. 

Having still a little moonlight, we were enabled to keep underweigh partof the night, and during the first watch came to in 13 fathoms, in a bayon the west side of Lizard Island, the extremes bearing from South 1/2East to East-North-East. During the day we experienced a northerlycurrent, varying from three quarters to half an knot an hour. 

July 3. 

We remained at this anchorage, until the following morning, for thepurpose of determining the position of the island, and of visiting thepeak, which we found to be nearly twelve hundred feet high. I ascended bya slope rising from the shore of the small bay where our observationswere taken, and which may be easily distinguished, from being the secondfrom the north point of the island. Their result was to place it inlatitude 14 degrees 40 3/4 minutes South longitude 13 degrees 17 3/4minutes East of Port Essington. Variation by the mean of five or sixneedles was 7 3/4 degrees East being half a degree more than it was atCape Upstart. Other magnetic observations were also made, consisting ofthose for the dip and intensity. 

In a valley to the left of the slope by which we ascended the peak, werenoticed several very remarkable, low and spreading trees, with a darkgreen foliage, and leaves large, ovate, and obtuse. The branches, fromwhich, when broken, a milky juice exuded, were thick and glossy, of anash colour; at their extremity they were thin, with long pendulous stems, supporting a bell-shaped flower, of a rich crimson hue; these hung ingreat profusion, and contrasting with the surrounding dark green verdure, presented a very beautiful and striking appearance. The diameter of thetrunk of the largest tree was 20 inches, and the height 25 feet. Lieutenant Emery painted a most faithful representation of one of them, by means of which we found on our arrival at Port Essington, that neitherthe professional nor amateur botanists, had any knowledge of it. To themand to ourselves it was alike perfectly new. 

CAPTAIN COOK. 

On the preceding evening I had refreshed my memory by reading Cook'saccount of his visit to the same spot, and was thus able minutely tofollow in the footsteps of the immortal navigator. There is aninexpressible charm in thus treading in the track of the mighty dead, andmy feelings on attaining the summit of the peak, where the foot of thewhite man, had perhaps but once before rested, will easily be understood. Below to the eastward stretched a vast expanse of water, broken at thedistance of about eight miles, by a long narrow line of detached reefs, on which there ran a white crest of foaming breakers, marking the outeredge of the Great Barrier, a name which few seamen could hear withindifference when in its vicinity. If I felt emotions of delight, onfirst perceiving the extent of a danger so justly dreaded, how muchstronger must have been the feelings of Captain Cook, when from the samespot years before, he saw by a gap in the line of broken water, there wasa chance of his once more gaining the open sea, after being confined tothe eastern shores of the Australian continent, for a distance of 750miles. 

Though the dangers of this inner channel had proved so nearly fatal tohis ship, the truth of the homely adage, which describes all as happeningfor the best, was here fully borne out, as the very fact of his positionenabled Captain Cook to make considerable discoveries along thecoast--just as by the mishap on Endeavour Reef, the presence of a riverwas made apparent, and some slight knowledge of the aborigines obtained, as well as numerous facts illustrative of the natural and vegetableproductions of the locality. 

PROVIDENCE CHANNEL. 

Little did he think at that time, however, when standing on the summit ofthe peak, that he was about as it were to thread the eye of a needle, bypassing through another break, in a manner which can only be designatedas providential. This gap in the great reef is now known as ProvidenceChannel, a name which must ever remind us of Him, who in moments when ourlives hang as by a thread, is ever watchful, and spares us in theexercise of his inscrutable will. 

Carried back to times past, we stood upon the summit of the height, dwelling in thought upon the adventurous career of the great navigator, when suddenly, as if by magic, the whole scene below and around wasobscured, and we found ourselves wrapped in a dense cloud of vapour, which came sweeping across the island, drenching us to the skin, with arapidity which spoke volumes for the penetrating character of anAustralian fog. Cold and shivering we hailed the temporary re-appearanceof the sun with delight, and our clothes were dried almost as speedily asthey had been wetted. Our satisfaction was however but of short duration, as the same agreeable operation, of alternate drenching and drying, occurred several times during our stay on the Peak. 

BARRIER REEF. 

The opening through which Captain Cook passed out to sea, bore aboutNorth by East 9 miles, the outer line of the Barrier Reef, curving fromthence to the North-West, and following the trend of the land. When thissingular wall of coral, the most extensive perhaps in the world, issurveyed, it will I think be found to follow the direction of the coastit fronts with such exactness, as to leave little doubt that the vastbase on which rests the work of the reef-building Polypifers, was, contrary to the opinion which I am aware prevails, upheaved at the sametime with the neighbouring coast of the Australian continent, which itfollows for a space of upwards of a hundred miles. 

CORAL REEFS. 

From the elevation on which I stood, I had an excellent view of somereefs within the Barrier; whether they encircled an islet, or were whollybeneath the water, their form was circular, although from the ship, andindeed anywhere, viewed from a less height, they appeared oval-shaped. This detection of my own previously erroneous impressions, seemed toaccount for the recurrence in charts of elongated-shaped reefs, othershaving doubtless fallen into the same error. It is very remarkable thaton the South-East or windward side of these coral reefs, the circle is ofa compact and perfect form, as if to resist the action of the waves, while on the opposite side they were jagged and broken. *

(*Footnote. In the Pacific the islets are generally on the weather sideof the lagoon reefs. )

The South-West side of the peak rises perpendicularly from a grassy flat, which stretches across that part of the island, separating two bays, thebeaches of which with the rest on the island are composed of granulatedquartz, and coarse shingle. A stream of water, rising in the peak, runsthrough the green, while a few low gumtrees grow in small detachedclumps; a ship may therefore procure both water and fuel; finding this tobe the case, and as it was a convenient stopping place, we made a plan ofthe island, connecting it with those in the immediate neighbourhood. Itis the more advantageous as an anchorage, in that it can be reachedduring the night, whereas this could not be done in the inner channelnear Turtle Islands, it lying so much to the westward, and being moreintricate. Indeed it is not prudent to approach these isles even in theafternoon, from the number of reefs, and the difficulty in seeing themwith the sun ahead. 

Mr. Bynoe was not fortunate enough to add to his collection of birds;those he observed being only doves and parrots, besides a flycatchercommon to parts of the coast, and often before met with by us. 

A couple of vampires of the larger and darker species were also seen, andnumerous land shells (Helix) similar to those on Cape Upstart; found nearthe roots of trees, buried in the decayed vegetation. Two old coconutsand large quantities of pumicestone were picked up on the south-east sideof the island. The prevailing character of the rocks was granitic, out ofwhich some beautiful specimens of hornblende were procured. The entireisland was fringed with a narrow strip of coral, but I noticed none of itabove high-water mark. 

HOWICK GROUP. 

July 4. 

We took our departure at an early hour, and after running round to sketchthe north-east side of the island, stood to the westward for HowickGroup. The weather being thick we did not discover the somewhatremarkable peak on Number 1, until we were close to it. Our progress wasaccelerated by a current running half a knot an hour, and finding thepassage between Number 1 and 2 of Howick Group, much impeded by rocks, wehauled up between 2 and 3 isles, and on keeping away againWest-North-West for Point Barrow, found ourselves close to a reef, almostdry, and extending nearly a mile further off the North-East side of ColesIsland, than is laid down in the chart; thus contracting the channelbetween it and Number 4 island, to a space of not more than two miles. When the course was shaped for Point Barrow, Noble Island, a veryremarkable pyramidal-shaped rocky height, was a point on the port bow. Its singular appearance makes it conspicuous amid the recollections ofthis part of the coast. 

We now once more approached to within a distance of seven miles of themainland, which presented to our view a low sandy shore, with a fewremarkable hummocks rising over it, and somewhat high, broken, rocky landimmediately behind. 

CAPE MELVILLE. 

Passing Point Barrow we anchored near the north end of a large reef, CapeMelville bearing West-North-West ten miles. Here we felt a swell rollingin from seaward, and during the day there had been a current in ourfavour, of about a mile an hour. From the haze on the horizon, noticedfrom this anchorage, as well as on passing Cape Melville, I believe theouter edge of the Barrier Reef to be not more than four or five leaguesdistant from the land. 

Our attention had been previously directed by Captain King and others, tothe singular appearance of the rocks on Cape Melville; indeed no one canpass this remarkable projection without being struck by the strangemanner in which piles of reddish-coloured stones are scattered about inthe utmost confusion, and in every possible direction over this highridge. I much regretted that on passing next morning there was noopportunity of landing to see the nature of this confused mass; judging, however, from the result of my examination of a similar appearancepresented by Depuch Island on the north-west coast, I believe this pointto be of volcanic origin. 

CAPE FLINDERS. 

Between the rocks off Cape Melville, and a reef encircling two smallislets, the channel is not more than a mile in width: indeed, I considerpassing this point and Cape Flinders the most intricate part of the innerroute. After rounding the rocks off the former we steered for the latterCape, keeping it a little on the port bow; this course led us on reef a, lying midway between the Cape and a low island to the North-East. When onthe southern extremity Cape Flinders bore South 70 degrees West 3 miles, and Clack Island North 39 degrees West. The latter is a remarkable cliffylump, interesting from the circumstance of Mr. Cunningham having foundnative drawings in its caves. 

After clearing this danger, and passing the Cape, we steered acrossPrincess Charlotte Bay, keeping wide to the southward of the reefsfronting it, in order that we might the more easily distinguish them; thesun at that time of the day being in the direction of the ship's head. The soundings gradually decreased with a soft muddy bottom, as weapproached the eastern shores of the bay; which is so large and free fromshoals, that a vessel not wishing to anchor might pass the night standingoff and on with perfect safety. There is over the head of this bay aremarkable level-topped hill, called by Captain Cook, Janes' tableland;rendered the more conspicuous from the low nature of the surroundingcountry. 

SECTION OF CORAL REEF. 

In the evening we anchored a mile from the South-West side of a smalldetached reef, marked F in the chart, and distant 22 miles from CapeFlinders; the solitary position of this reef, it being four miles fromthe inner edge of the Great Barrier, and nine from the nearest part ofthe main, gave us a good opportunity of making a section, with a view ofillustrating the progressive structure of coral edifices, in the stillwaters within the barrier reef; we accordingly visited the spot in theevening, and being an interesting object, we give a drawing of thesection. 

It proved a good specimen of the circular or lagoon reef. One youngmangrove was growing on the elevated part marked C in the woodcut. Therim which rose on all sides was quite black, but white when broken; thehighest part being about three feet above the water. The nature of thebottom within the reef was a white sand mixed with small pieces of deadcoral: without, we found on either side soft green sandy mud with shells, the inclination of the bottom on which the reef rests, being only onedegree, we may fairly infer it to be superimposed on a most extensivebasis. 

CLAREMONT ISLES. 

July 7. 

To-day being Sunday we did not proceed further than Number 4 of theClaremont Isles, a low rocky group encircled by coral reefs, to give theship's company a run on shore during the afternoon; in order to remindthem of its being a day of rest appointed by the Lord. When we anchored, we found, contrary to the usual north-westerly tendency of the current, atide setting South-South-West three quarters of a knot an hour, thislasted for a space of four hours, when it changed, and ranNorth-North-West from half to three quarters of a knot during theremainder of our stay. The wind was moderate from East-South-East. 

July 8. 

We weighed at 6 A. M. , and about the same hour in the evening againanchored under Restoration Island. The ship's track during the dayfollowed the trend of the land, keeping about seven miles from it, exceptwhen opposite Cape Direction, where we were about half that distance fromthe shore. We found little to add to Captain King's chart, with theexception of some reefs lying about ten miles east from theabove-mentioned headland. 

CORDILLERA. 

The coast here again attained a moderate height, and a round hill tenmiles south of Cape Direction, reached the height of 1250 feet; itslatitude being 13 degrees South is nearly five degrees and a half northof where the Cordillera is 3500 feet high, and 23 1/2 degrees of where itattains its greatest elevation, that of 6500 feet; a fact which will atonce demonstrate the northerly tendency in the dip of the chain of hills. This degree is further illustrated by the height of Pudding-pan Hill in11 degrees 19 minutes South being only 384 feet. From the data given, despite the limited number of our facts, it will be seen that the dipbecomes gradually more rapid as you advance to the northward. 

South-East from Cape Sidmouth the passage was much contracted by acovered rock in the very centre of the channel; this may be avoided bykeeping close to the West side of island Number 6. Restoration is a loftyrocky lump, terminating in a peak 360 feet high. A smaller islet of thesame character lies about half a mile off its South-East side; there isalso a remarkable peak on the shore, four miles to the southward. Thispart of the coast is thus rendered very conspicuous from seaward, and maybe discerned outside the Barrier reefs. Restoration Island is a point ofsome interest from having been first visited in 1789 by Captain Bligh, during his extraordinary and unparalleled voyage in the Bounty launch, from the Society Islands. The dangers and perils undergone by thisundaunted voyager, and our consciousness of the joy which the sight ofland must have brought to his heart, gave much zest to our feelings withregard to the locality. There is always an interest in connection withscenes associated with a name such as that of Bligh, but to us theinterest was double; it was the sympathy of seamen with a brothersailor's misfortunes. 

RESTORATION ISLAND. 

As Captain King had not examined this interesting spot, we thought hischart would be greatly improved by our passing a day in the place; thiswas the more necessary as we found it to be a snug anchorage andconvenient place for ships passing. The name of Restoration Island wasgiven it by Bligh, from the circumstance of his having made it upon theanniversary of the recall of Charles II. To the throne of England. 

July 9. 

The surveying operations necessary to perfect the chart of thisneighbourhood, afforded ample employment during the day. The weatherbeing dull, with passing rain, and squalls, the view I had anticipatedenjoying from the summit of the island was quite destroyed. Like CapeUpstart and Lizard Island it is a granite mass. Dead coral was found onthe western side, ten feet above high-water mark, a fact which in somemeasure supports what I have stated in connection with the raised beachon Cape Upstart. A low sandy tongue of land forms the South-West extreme, leaving a narrow passage between it and the main. This flat is coveredwith brushwood, gumtrees, and a few palms. The observations were made onthis point, and the results were as follow: latitude 12 degrees 37minutes 30 seconds South, longitude 11 degrees 16 3/4 minutes East ofPort Essington. 

July 10. 

The morning broke with the same dull, gloomy weather, the wind fresh atSouth-East and continued thus during the day, slightly diversified by afew passing rain squalls. Soon after daylight we were again on ourpassage, the cloudy weather enabling us to make out the Eastern reefs, which at high-water are covered, and consequently difficult to be seen inthat direction in the morning. They front Quoin and Forbes Islands, remarkable rocky lumps, more so, however, from the extreme lowness ofthose in their vicinity, than from their own magnitude. The latter wasfound to be 340 feet high. A North-West by North course from Restorationbrought us to Piper Islands. The soundings were from 11 to 13 fathoms, with a greater proportion of sand in the quality of the bottom than hadbeen before noticed. 

SIR EVERARD HOME'S ISLANDS. 

Passing between them and reefs H and I also between Young Island (anelevated reef, with one small mangrove growing on the highest part) andreef M, we hauled up North-East by North round the north end of thelatter, to weather Sir Everard Home's Islands, a low group connected byshoal water and extending about four miles from Cape Grenville. We passedmidway between them and Haggerston's Islands, a square lump 240 feethigh. 

COCKBURN ISLANDS. 

Sir Charles Hardy's and the Cockburn Isles are also conspicuous objectsin this neighbourhood, particularly the former, which is visible fromoutside the Barrier, and thus forms a leading mark for ships making theirway through these reefs. 

In the evening the anchor was dropped about a mile from the north side ofthe Bird Isles in ten fathoms, a sudden degree from fifteen, just beforestanding in West-South-West to the anchorage. Five miles South-East byEast from these isles, we passed close to the position of a patch ofshoal water, according to the chart: its presence, however, was notdetected, the depth at the time being nineteen fathoms. The onlyadditions made to the chart during the day were a few soundings, besidesincreasing the number and altering the position of Cockburn Islands, withthe reefs fronting them. The number of these isles is thus increased fromtwo to four; they are square rocky lumps, the largest being three hundredfeet high. The current during the day set steadily North-West almost amile an hour. On anchoring we found it setting West-North-West at thesame rate. At midnight it changed its direction to East-South-East from aquarter to half a knot an hour. The time of high-water being about 6A. M. , it is evident the flood-stream came here from South or South-East. The islands passed during the day, were of a small lagoon character andthe reefs oval-shaped, with an elevated patch of dead coral at theirnorth extreme, which had the appearance, at a distance, of sand. Themainland had much changed in outline, having subsided into a wearisomeseries of undulating hills, varying from five to seven hundred feet inheight. The coast was, therefore, utterly void of any feature ofinterest, after passing Fair Cape. 

July 11. 

At daylight we were again underway and steered North by East for thepurpose of ascertaining if there were any reefs to the eastward of u andv. When Number 1 of a group next south of Cairncross bore North 43degrees West four and a half miles the course was changed toWest-North-West to pass between the reef fronting its south side and reefw where we had a depth of 20 fathoms; both of these we found it necessaryto enlarge on the chart. At the time of altering the course, the ship wasWest-North-West two miles from the position of an island according tochart; but as we did not see it, and as Captain King has not laid it downupon his own authority, we may safely conclude that it either does notexist, or that it is much out of position. 

BOYDAN ISLAND. 

Rounding the reef off its south extremity, we anchored in 18 fathoms, onemile South 65 degrees West from the centre of the island beforementioned--Number 1 of the group South of Cairncross--shortly beforenoon. This Captain King supposes to be Boydan, that on which the crew ofthe Charles Eaton were massacred. It was therefore determined that theremainder of the day should be spent in examining the place, with a viewto ascertain the correctness of this supposition. The melancholy interestof the search was to me greatly enhanced, from having seen at Sydneyyoung D'Oyly, one of the survivors of this ill-fated party, and son of anIndian officer returning from furlough. Being an infant, his helplessnessexcited the sympathies of an Indian woman, who snatched him from the armsof his murdered mother, and sheltered him within her own. Nor did herkindness stop here, the never-failing maternal solicitude of the sex, inducing her to protect and console the child. 

EXAMINATION OF BOYDAN ISLAND. 

We had just read Captain P. P. King's interesting pamphlet in relation tothis sad event, detailing with minuteness all the circumstances of thetragedy, and with our minds so recently imbued with the horrors itinspired, naturally advanced to the search with zeal and activity;anxious, if possible, to place the locality of its occurrence beyond adoubt. The isle was easily traversed, being of small extent, not more, indeed, than a mile in circumference. We crossed it accordingly in everydirection, and discovered the remains of native fires, near which greatquantities of turtle bones, and some coconut shells were scattered about. It was remarkable that wherever boughs were cut, an axe or some othersharp instrument had been used. A topmast with the lower cap attached toit, was found on the South-East side of the island, which we afterwardsdiscovered to be a portion of the brig William, wrecked on the outerbarrier three months before. 

Captain King drew his conclusions relative to this island from thecircumstance of young Ireland's stating, that on their way to it in thecanoe, after leaving the raft, they first passed three islands on theright northward, and one on the left southward. 

CORRECT CHART. 

From the bearings, however, and from our run on the following morning wefound it necessary to correct the chart, thus decreasing the number ofislands. We found that marked 5, to have no existence, and 6, far toomuch to the westward, while 8 and 10 were placed to the eastward of theirtrue position. These errors occasionally occur where they are numerous, much alike, and are passed quickly. The change in the number and positionof the islands is in some measure hostile to the views of Captain King, and I am further inclined, from these corrections, to draw the conclusionthat Number 4 of the group is Boydan island, a name given by the Murrayislanders, to the spot rendered notorious by the cold-blooded massacre wehave already alluded to, and which will be described more in detail inCaptain Stanley's highly interesting narrative, further on in the presentwork. 

On examining the reef fronting the island, which is a more perfectspecimen of a lagoon than any we had yet seen, we found that the outeredge consisted of a wall higher than any of the parts within, rising atlow-water, to an elevation of ten feet, while inside, pools or holesexisted, three or four feet deep, containing live coral, sponges, sea-eggs, and trepang. Scattered about on different parts of the reefwere many Chama gigas, not, however, so large as those I had formerlyseen at Keeling or Cocos Islands, in the Indian Ocean, weighing 220pounds. 

Singular to say, at 3 P. M. , I observed the latitude by a meridianaltitude of Venus, although a bright sunny day. The result agreed withCaptain King's chart, placing the centre of the island in latitude 11degrees 28 minutes South. 

TIDAL OBSERVATIONS. 

We experienced more tide here than at any anchorage we had yet occupiedduring the passage. From 1 to 5 P. M. , it set half an knot an hour to thesouthward, then changed to North-West by North, increasing its rate toone knot by 10 o'clock, and decreasing it to a quarter of a knot by 2A. M. , when it again set to the South-South-West. The stream thus appearsto set nine hours North-West by North and three South-South-West. Theshort duration of the latter, which is the ebb, is caused by thenortherly direction of the prevailing current. This also was the onlyspot where our fishermen had any success; in a few hours several dozen ofa species of small red bream being caught. 

Three or four ships passing together would find a secure berth about twomiles North-North-East of where the Beagle anchored, where the depth ismoderate, with good holding ground. It has great advantage in thisparticular over Cairncross, where but one vessel could lie snug, andstill greater over Turtle Island, more exposed even than the former witha strong tide, and where vessels ride very uneasily. Moreover thesupposed Boydan, or Number 1 isle, can be left a full hour beforedaylight, there being nothing in the way to impede a ship's progress forsome miles. Those who are not desirous of passing the reefs off Wednesdayand Hammond Islands, late in the day, with the sun in an unfavourableposition, can find a convenient stopping place in Blackwood Bay under thelargest York isle, or under the Cape of that name. 

CAIRNCROSS ISLAND. 

July 12. 

We left at an early hour, steering North-North-West 1/2 West forCairncross Island, which we passed at a distance of half a mile from theeastern side in 16 fathoms. Its height is seventy-five feet to the topsof the trees, which, according to Mr. Bynoe, who subsequently visited itin the month of September, are dwarf gums. The tea-tree of the colonistsis also found here, in addition to some small bushes. This island is theresort of a large bright cream-coloured pigeon (Carpophaga leucomela) theends of the wings being tipped with black, or very dark blue. Mr. Bynoefound the island quite alive with them; flocks of about twenty or thirtyflying continually to and from the main. They not only resort but breedthere, as he found several old nests. As this bird was not met with inthe Beagle on the western coast, we may fairly conclude it only inhabitsthe eastern and northern; the furthest south it was seen by the officersof H. M. S. Britomart was latitude 20 degrees. In addition to these, Mr. Bynoe saw the holes of some small burrowing animals, which are doubtlessrats. On a sandy spit, close to the bushes or scrub, he saw a nativeencampment of a semicircular form, enclosing an area of about ten yards. The occupants had but recently left it, as a fire was found burning, andthe impression of their feet still fresh in the sand. It appears that atthis season of the year, being the favourable monsoon for ships passingthrough the Barrier reefs on their voyage to India, the islands to thesouthward are much frequented by the natives of Murray and others of thenorthern isles, waiting, like wreckers of old, the untoward loss of someill-fated ship, when their canoes appear as if by magic, hastening to thedoomed vessel; just as in the Pampas of South America, no sooner has thesportsman brought down a deer than the air is filled with myriads ofvultures winging their way towards the carcass, though a few minutesbefore not a feather was stirring. The long-sightedness of these Indiansresembles that of the carrion bird itself, * while their rapacity andrecklessness of blood is fully equal to that of the lower animal. 

(*Footnote. As some of our readers may imagine that vultures and birds ofprey are attracted to the carcasses of animals by smell, I may state thatan experiment was tried with a condor in South America; being hoodwinked, he passed unnoticed a large piece of beef, but as soon as the bandage wasremoved, he rushed eagerly towards and devoured it. )

PUDDING-PAN HILL. 

We left our readers at Cairncross Island, and now return to our narrativeby describing the neighbouring coast. The most remarkable feature on thispart of the mainland, generally speaking a dull monotonous level, is ahill bearing over the extremity of the reef fronting the south side ofCairncross, South 45 degrees West, to which Captain Bligh has given thequaint name of Pudding-Pan Hill. It received this appellation from aresemblance to an inverted pudding dish, commonly used by sailors, and is354 feet high. The coast about ten miles to the northward projects a mileand a half further eastward than is marked in the chart. This error didnot however appear to be so great south of Escape River, where thecharacter of the coast is low and cliffy, separated by small sandy bays;instead of a continued line of cliffs as at present represented. 

ESCAPE RIVER. 

At noon we were in the parallel of the south point of Escape River, inlatitude 10 degrees 58 minutes South, observations and bearings bothagreeing. This river receives its name in record of one of those narrowescapes to which surveying vessels are subject, Captain King having beennearly wrecked in the Mermaid. Attempting to enter the river he found itnot to be navigable, a reef extending across its mouth, on which hisvessel struck very heavily. 

CORRECT POSITION OF REEFS. 

Avoiding Captain King's track, we passed to the eastward of reef x, beingthus afforded a better opportunity of determining its position than hehad. This we did by transit bearings with different points, which placedit nearly two miles South by East of the spot assigned it on the charts. *

(*Footnote. On mentioning this afterwards to Captain P. P. King, he toldme his survey of that part of the coast had never given him satisfaction;for there the monsoon blows fresh, and his small vessel was hurried pastwithout his being able to land in search of better data for the chart. The reader must not, from these corrections (few, when we consider theextent of the survey) be led to imagine that our object is to pick outerrors in the surveys of others; but from being in a larger and betterappointed vessel, our opportunities of examination were necessarilygreater than those afforded to Captain King, who was always most anxiousto detect errors in his own charts. Without dwelling on the fact that theresult of our examination afforded us the satisfaction of restoring partsof the chart, before erroneously corrected, to his original construction, we would venture to hope that, while desirous as much as possible toperfect our knowledge of the coast, we were in no manner actuated by thatspirit of fault-finding, so pithily described by Liebeg, when he saysthat it is "startling to reflect that all the time and energy of amultitude of persons of genius, talent, and knowledge is expended inendeavours to demonstrate each others' errors. ")

This error we found to extend also to reefs y and z. X is one of theoval-shaped reefs, with the singular white patch of dead coral on itsnorthern extremity which I have before spoken of. Z is similarly marked, and dries at last quarter ebb, while the South-East part of y is nevercovered, a few mangroves growing on it. When abreast of x, we saw fromdeck the curious flat-topped hill on the largest York island, MountAdolphus, and when over the centre of reef z, it bore North 23 1/2degrees West. We now steered to the westward between reefs, x and y, andafterwards North-North-West for Mount Adolphus. Between the Brothers andAlbany Islands the depth was 10 fathoms; these are both black rockylumps, particularly the latter, the outer being a mere pointed rock. Altogether they assume a sterile and dreary appearance, in excellentkeeping with the inhospitable character of the adjoining coast. Severalshoals and much shoal water were noticed in Newcastle Bay. 

BLACKWOOD BAY. 

At 4 P. M. , we anchored in Blackwood Bay, in a depth of 10 fathoms. PointDicky bearing South half a mile, and Mount Adolphus North-East. In theevening a plan was made of this very convenient stopping place for ships, and all the angles taken to the North-West extremity of the group, placethem a mile and a half to the eastward of their position in the chart. Observations were also obtained near Point Dicky, which we found to be inlatitude 10 degrees 38 3/4 minutes South and longitude 10 degrees 28minutes East of Port Essington. The North-West extremity of the singularflat-topped hill being 1 minute 05 seconds North, and 45 seconds East ofthis spot. The first question interesting to ships is the supply of woodand water; the latter we had no time to look for, but of the former therewas an abundance, though from the shore being fronted by extensive coralflats, it is difficult to be attained. 

The appearance of the island is similar to that of the Albany cluster, ithaving the same rocky, bleak, and almost wild look; from which I concludethey are of the same formation, which in general terms we may callporphyritic. Parts of the island appeared to be intersected by a growthof mangroves. 

There appeared great irregularity in the tides at this anchorage, as ifthere were a meeting of various streams. At 5 P. M. It was settingSouth-West about an hour, and continued to run in that direction until 8hours 30 minutes, gradually decreasing its rate. It then took a North andby East direction with the same velocity, until half an hour aftermidnight, when it again changed back to South-South-West, a course itpursued during the remainder of our stay. By the rise of the water on theshore it would appear that the flood came from the westward. 

TORRES STRAIT. 

On reaching York Island we considered ourselves within the Strait, whichtook its name from the Spanish navigator Torres, who sailed in 1605, second in command under Pedro Fernandes de Quiros, from Callao in Peru, with the object of discovering the Tierra Austral, then supposed to be acontinent occupying a considerable portion of the southern hemisphere, lying westward of America. Torres passed through this strait in 1606, butdespite the great importance of the discovery, its existence remainedunknown until 1762, from the jealousy of the Spanish monarchy, which keptthe reports of its navigators a secret from the world. At the time inquestion, however, Manila fell into our hands, and in the archives ofthat colony, a duplicate copy of Torres's letter to the king of Spain wasfound by the hydrographer, Mr. Dalrymple. The passage was now made known, and in tardy justice to the discoverer it received the appellation ofTorres Strait; a tribute to the reputation of man, the greatest perhapswhich could be bestowed, since no more sure road to immortality can bepointed out, than giving a name to the great and imperishable works ofthe Creator's hand. It was not however until 1770, that the worldreceived full confirmation of this great acquisition to our geographicalknowledge; the immortal Cook then passing through and settling thequestion of its existence. This being the high road between our growingEastern and Australian possessions, the reader will at once see theimportance which must ever attach to the discovery, and will the morereadily comprehend our enlarging in some degree upon the circumstance. 

July 13. 

There had been noticed last evening a slight rippling outside the bay, and on leaving this morning we found it to be a ridge about two cableswidth, the least water on it being three fathoms. From the shoalest part, Mount Adolphus bore North 56 degrees East, and Point Dicky South 26degrees East. It appeared by the ripples continuing towards thenorth-west of York Island, that this rocky ledge extended in thatdirection. Vessels entering Blackwood Bay may always avoid this shoal, bykeeping close to Point Dicky, or by steering for Mount Adolphus, when itbears North-East 1/2 North. 

Being desirous to know if there were a practicable channel throughEndeavour Strait, by which the inconvenience before alluded to, ofpassing the reef fronting Hammond's Island late in theafternoon, might be avoided, we proceeded in that direction, passingalong the north-eastern extreme of the continent, and between thePossession Islands we entered Endeavour Strait. This termination of theshores of Australia, being level and of moderate elevation, presentsnothing remarkable, save a peak over Cape York and fronting thePossession Isles. 

COOK'S ISLAND. 

It has an inhospitable appearance, being apparently similar in formationwith York Isles, and subsides rapidly to the South-West forming the southside of Endeavour Strait, where it scarcely reaches an elevation of fiftyfeet: contrasting forcibly with the high rocky land of the opposite sideof the Strait, formed by the largest of the Prince of Wales Islands; uponwhich former navigators not having bestowed a name, we conferred that ofthe immortal navigator. Not but that the Strait known by the name of hisship, is quite sufficient to recall the mind of posterity to his perilsand dangers in these seas; but that we his humble followers in the greatcause of discovery might add our mite to the wreath of glory which mustever encircle the name of Captain Cook. 

On the North-East extremity of this island is a remarkable peak, in theshape of a horn, called by him Horn Hill. Captain King having only passedbetween the eastern of the Possession Isles, little was known of thewestern shores. A few angles and bearings were accordingly taken, as wepassed between them to assist in remedying this deficiency. 

ENDEAVOUR STRAIT. 

There was no impediment to our passage through the Strait, until we gotabreast of Wallis Isles, Cape Cornwall bearing East by North 1/2 North;when the water shoaled to four fathoms and a half. Finding by hauling upon either tack, that we were on a ridge extending from the Cape, we ranto the westward, until we could cross it, which we did in three and ahalf fathoms, North Wallis Island bearing South-West five miles. 

BOOBY ISLAND. 

I saw at the time from the masthead, a blue streak of water to thesouthward, still affording hopes of there being a deep outlet toEndeavour Strait; but as the day was far advanced, with a fresh breezefrom East-South-East, it was not deemed prudent to get the ship entangledin shoal water; therefore, after crossing the ridge extending off CapeCornwall we steered North-West 1/2 West for Booby Island, in regularsoundings of six and seven fathoms, and late in the afternoon anchorednearly a mile from its western side, a flagstaff bearing South 65 degreesEast. This we found on landing had been erected in 1835 by CaptainHobson, * of H. M. S. Rattlesnake, who at the same time placed in a largebox, made for the purpose, a book with printed forms, which every shippassing filled up, with the addition of such remarks as were thought ofconsequence. Over this box in large letters were painted the words PostOffice, a name by which Booby Island must be quite familiar to all whohave navigated these seas; ships being here in the habit of leavingletters for transmission by any vessel proceeding in the requireddirections. I noticed a similar practice prevailing among the whalers atthe Galapagos Islands in the Pacific. We are indebted for the book to thepublic spiritedness of an Indian army officer. The beneficial results ofthe plan were experienced by ourselves, as here we first heard of thePort Essington expedition, having passed eight months previously; also ofthe schooner Essington, that left Sydney in advance of the expedition forthat place, having succeeded in determining the fact of the non-existenceof the other young D'Oyly, one of the passengers of the ill-fated CharlesEaton. This result of the enterprising merchant-man's researches, fullybears out the fact mentioned by Captain King, on the authority of theDarnley islanders, that he shared the fate of his parents, being devouredby their savage captors. All the ships which have recorded their passagein the book, appeared to have entered the Barrier between the latitude of11 degrees 30 minutes and 12 degrees 10 minutes; generally about 11degrees 50 minutes reaching Sir Charles Hardy's Island the same day. Theyall spoke of a strong northerly current outside the reef, in someinstances of nearly three knots. The time occupied in making the passagefrom Sydney by the outer route, varied from fourteen to twenty days, itbeing certainly shorter than the inner, though attended with much greaterrisks. One objection made against the latter is the necessity ofanchoring every evening, somewhat laborious work to the crews of merchantships; this might be obviated in some measure by using a light anchor, which could be done with perfect safety in the still waters within thereefs. We found two barques at anchor, which had arrived on the precedingday. In accordance with a practice very generally observed, they weregiving themselves a short period of repose and relaxation after theanxieties and danger of the outer passage; which, short as it is, hasdoubtless sprinkled grey hairs over many a seaman's head. 

(*Footnote. Afterwards Governor of New Zealand. )

ITS DESCRIPTION. 

Although Booby Island is a mere rock, from the various associationsconnected with it, being during one half of the year the constant resortof Europeans, it becomes at once a place of interest, and imperativelydemands some notice at our hands. It is a quarter of a mile in diameter, flat, and about thirty feet high, the summit being bare porphyry rock. Avalley intersects the north-west side of the island, in which a fewcreepers, some brushwood, and two or three trees of tolerable size, witha peculiar broad green leaf, bearing a great resemblance to that of thewild almond of the West Indies, were seen, giving shelter to some pigeonsand quails, in which latter the island abounds, even more than in thebird which gives its name to the locality. Still, however, from the whitecolour of the top of the island, produced by the boobies, it is clearlyone of their temporary haunts; and indeed, subsequently, in the month ofSeptember, their season of incubation, Mr. Bynoe saw them there in greatabundance. The contrary was the case with the quail, which, by that time, had completely deserted the island. Turtle were once found on this isle, but they are now never taken. A few of the stones mentioned by CaptainKing are still to be seen on the summit. 

REMARKS ON THE CORAL REEFS OF AUSTRALIA. 

This being a point at which ships correct or test the going of theirchronometers, it was necessary to obtain observations for longitude. Thespot chosen for the purpose was the landing-place near the South-Westcorner of the islet, and which we found to be 9 degrees 45 minutes Eastof Port Essington. 

Our opportunities of examination with regard to the inner edge of theGreat Barrier, and its contiguous islands and reefs, terminating at BoobyIsland; it may not be deemed irrelevant to hazard a few remarks inrecapitulation. In the first place there was a very perceptible increasein the elevation of the reefs and of those islands resting on similarconstructions, as we advanced to the northward. Cairncross Island, inlatitude 11 1/4 degrees South, composed of heaped up consolidatedfragments, attains an elevation of 17 feet; but its trees rise to aheight of 75 feet, whilst to the southward, in latitude 13 1/2 degreesSouth the islands were partially flooded by a tide, rising only about sixfeet. The reefs are all either circular or oval-shaped, with a rim risinground them. The description of that fronting the isle we visited forBoydan will illustrate their general character. Their northern ends arethe highest, and are almost invariably marked by a heap of dead coral andshells, which as we have mentioned, in one or two instances, from itswhite appearance has often been taken for sand. 

The remarkable breaks in this singularly great extent of coral reefs, known as the Barrier of Australia, being in direction varying from Westto West-North-West generally speaking North-West, leads me to believethat the upheaval by which the base of this huge coral building wasformed, partakes of the general north-westerly direction, in which alarge portion of the eastern world apparently emerged from the water. Aglance at the map of that portion of the globe, will strengthen thishypothesis, placing as it does this singular fact at once before thereader's mind. Starting with the stupendous heights of the Himalayamountains, and proceeding thence to several groups of the Polynesianislands, New Caledonia, and others, this remarkable similarity in thetrend of these portions of the earth is plainly distinguishable. It wouldappear, therefore, from the general north-westerly tendency of theseupheavals, that the cavernous hollows beneath the crust of the earth, within whose bosom originated these remarkable convulsions, have a stronginclination in one direction, a circumstance in connection with theearth's history of great and curious interest. With this generalstatement of facts, which we note for the benefit of scientific men, andin illustration of the singular changes which are taking place on thesurface of the globe, we return to our narrative, from which we havewandered at some considerable length. 

As the duration of our cruise on the north-west and most interestingportions of the coast, depended in a great measure on the supply ofprovisions to be obtained at Port Essington, we were naturally anxious tosatisfy ourselves upon the point, and accordingly spent but a few hoursat Booby Island, taking our departure at 8 P. M. On the day of ourarrival. 

PROCEED TO PORT ESSINGTON. 

Proceeding towards Port Essington, we experienced a constant currentsetting between North-West and West, from half to three quarters of aknot an hour, except when crossing the mouth of the Gulf of Carpentaria, when from the indraught its direction was changed to West-South-West. Thewinds were as Captain King has described them, veering fromSouth-South-East in the morning, to East in the evening, and blowingfresh towards the middle of the day. 

Beyond this nothing occurred worthy of remark, until the morning of the17th, when soon after daylight we found ourselves steering rather withina large patch of discoloured water, extending off Cape Croker, theNorth-East extreme of the Coburg Peninsula, a low point with a slighthummock on it; on the north side of this peninsula is situated PortEssington, thirty miles to the westward of the Cape. 

CAPE CROKER REEF. 

The light-coloured water off the latter, we knew indicated the reefdiscovered by the brig Tigris, belonging to the Indian navy, which incompany with the New South Wales colonial schooner, Isabella, wasreturning from rescuing the survivors of the Charles Eaton, from thenatives of Murray Island. When half a mile from the North-East side, in22 fathoms rocky bottom, Cape Croker, bearing South 29 degrees East sixmiles; we steered out, keeping at the same distance round this patch oflight water in twenty and twenty-one fathoms, seven or eight miles fromthe Cape, which bore when over what appeared the shoalest part, South 42degrees East. 

This conclusion I afterwards found, on meeting Captain Stanley, to becorrect, as that bearing led over the part of the reef he struck on inH. M. S. Britomart. But being on the inner part he was distant only threemiles from Cape Croker, whilst the outer edge of the reef I believe to beseven miles from it on the same bearing. In hauling up to the southward, round the North-West extreme of the discoloured water, the soundings wereas follows, 17, 12, and 19 fathoms, with rocky bottom. The Cape bore whenin the least depth South 58 degrees East nine miles. 

We were fortunate in having such good means of determining the longitudeof Cape Croker, by observation of a twilight star when in the meridian, and others with the sun soon afterwards. These both agreeing, place theCape 27 1/4 miles east of Port Essington, instead of 20, as it is laiddown in the chart. This discovery is of vital importance to shipsproceeding to Port Essington; we were therefore glad of so good anopportunity for rectifying the error. 

PORT ESSINGTON. 

Expectation was on tip-toe as we were fast approaching Port Essington, feeling naturally anxious to see what progress had been made at the newsettlement, and to learn the fate of the expedition. There was, however, nothing striking in the first appearance of the land, a low woody shore;the most remarkable object being a sandy islet, with a tree in itscentre, about a mile east of Point Smith, the eastern point of PortEssington: Vashon Head forming the western. 

As we drew near, a boat came alongside belonging to H. M. S. Britomart. From Mr. Pascoe we heard that the Alligator had just sailed for Sydney, leaving the former to await her return at Port Essington. The peopleforming the settlement had been very healthy, bearing out Dr. Wilson'saccount of Raffles Bay; and had found the natives exceedingly welldisposed. For this advantage we are indebted to the excellent judgmentdisplayed by the unfortunate* Captain Barker, late Commandant of RafflesBay, he having during his stay in that place, treated them with kindness, to which they were fairly entitled from men so far their superiors inknowledge and power, and who were moreover intruders upon their soil. Hadthis noble conduct of Captain Barker been more universally accepted as anexample, the results would, we doubt not, have been equally satisfactoryelsewhere. 

(*Footnote. This expression may to some of our readers requireexplanation, and we therefore quote a brief extract from Dr. Wilson'svoyage round the world, page 284. "In obedience to orders from theColonial Government, he was examining the coast in the vicinity ofEncounter Bay, principally with the view of ascertaining whether anyavailable communication existed between the river Murray (latelydiscovered by Captain Sturt) and the Sea. While in the execution of thisduty, he was barbarously murdered by the natives, and his body throwninto the sea. " In Sturt's two Expeditions volume 2 page 239, a detailednarrative of this tragedy is given. )

WRECK OF THE ORONTES. 

We also heard with much regret, * of the wreck of the Orontes, whichaccompanied the expedition from Sydney. She left the settlement, with theintention of proceeding to some port in the East Indies; and when justclearing the harbour struck on a reef, knocking a hole in her bows. Shefilled so rapidly that they had barely time to reach the shore underVashon Head, ere she sank. The reef, which now bears her name, isaccording to Mr. Tyers' plan, received from Mr. Pascoe, a mile in extenteast and west, and half a mile north and south; while the nearest part ofit is distant from Vashon Head and Point Smith very nearly five miles. From its extremes the following are the bearings; from the western, Vashon Head South 49 degrees West, Point Smith South 55 degrees East: andfrom the eastern the same points bear South 60 degrees West and South 48degrees East. 

(*Footnote. The loss of a ship is always looked upon as a most untowardevent, on the occasion of a new settlement being formed, and is everforcibly imprinted upon the memory of all ship-masters. This was felt toa most serious extent at Swan River; and many masters of vessels inspeaking of Port Essington, have at once expressed their fear ofproceeding thither, deterred by the loss of the Orontes. )

ORONTES REEF. 

The least depth on the Orontes reef is about a fathom, but the generallydiscoloured state of the water, renders it impossible to determine itsexact position, and thus greatly increases the injury done by itspresence to the mouth of the harbour. The same difficulty prevents theend of the reef fronting Point Smith from being made out. After roundingthe latter, we hauled to the wind, South-West by South up Port Essington. 

CHAPTER 1. 11. 

Port Essington. Bearings from shoals in the Harbour. Appearance of the Settlement. Meet Captain Stanley. Church. Point Record. Prospects of the Settlement. Buffaloes escape. Fence across neck of Peninsula. Lieutenant P. B. Stewart explores the Country. Natives. Uses of Sand. Tumuli-building Birds. Beautiful Opossum. Wild Bees. Escape from an Alligator. Result of Astronomical Observations. Geological Formation. Raffles Bay. Leave Port Essington. Popham Bay. Detect error in position of Port Essington. Melville Island. Discover a Reef in Clarence Strait. Cape Hotham. Native Huts and Clothing. Geological Formation. Discover the Adelaide River. Interview with Natives. Attempt to come on board. Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys nearly speared. Exploration of the Adelaide. Its capabilities. Wood-ducks. Vampires. Another party ascends the Adelaide. Meet Natives. Canoes. Alligator. Visit Melville Island. Green Ants. Thoughts of taking ship up Adelaide abandoned. Tides in Dundas Strait. Return to Port Essington. Theatricals. H. M. S. Pelorus arrives with Provisions. Further remarks on the Colony. 

PORT ESSINGTON. 

The expanse of water presented to our view in standing up Port Essington, quite delighted us. It is in truth a magnificent harbour, and well worthyof having on its shores the capital of Northern Australia, destined, doubtless, from its proximity to India, and our other fast-increasingeastern possessions, to become not only a great commercial resort, but avaluable naval post in time of war. Many circumstances combine to renderit a desirable station. Its great size, having an extent sufficient tohold the largest fleet, is in itself of vast importance, while, as ashelter for distressed vessels, or the surviving crews of wrecks, itcannot be too highly rated: the more so that excellent wood for repairingships grows in the neighbourhood, especially teak and oak, specimens ofwhich with others, Captain Laws forwarded, in 1828, to one of thedockyards in England. 

As we advanced the shores of the harbour contracted, and at the distanceof thirteen miles from the entrance are only one mile apart; scarcelyhalf, however, of this space is navigable, from a bank extending off thewest side, which is a rocky head called Spear Point, from thecircumstance of Captain King having been there nearly speared by thenatives. The bearings for clearing the extremes of this reef are asfollows. For the south-eastern, Adam Head South 20 degrees West, for theeastern, Middle Head South 18 degrees West, and for the north-eastern, Oyster Head North 47 degrees West. This great decrease in the breadth ofthe passage, necessarily gives the tide at this spot great rapidity, bywhich a channel, thirteen fathoms deep, has been formed close to theeastern shore, a low sandy tongue of land called Point Record. This namewas given to it on the occasion of Port Essington and the contiguouscountry, being taken possession of by Sir Gordon Bremer when on his wayto settle Melville Island, in 1824. A bottle containing an account oftheir proceedings was buried, and hence the name. The same cause whichinfluences the tides, has rendered the sides of the narrow channel verysteep, and a vessel standing towards the bank fronting Spear Point, should, accordingly, tack when the water shoals to nine fathoms, as thesoundings in approaching that part fronting Port Record are 12, 9, 7, and2 fathoms. 

Beyond these points, the harbour again widens and forms a large basinnearly five miles in extent; but from a broad point projecting two milesfrom the south-east side, the inner harbour is proportionably decreasedin size. From the extreme of this cliffy point, called by Captain King, from its position, Middle Head, a narrow bank extends some distance inthe direction of Point Record, forming the only danger in this part ofthe harbour. 

BEARINGS FOR THE HARBOUR. 

From its outer edge, Point Record bears north, and the North-East part ofMiddle Head, South 76 degrees East. These and other bearings recentlygiven, will perhaps be considered of little value by the general reader, but as they were required to take the Beagle into Port Essington, theywill be found useful to others for the same purpose. 

APPEARANCE OF THE SETTLEMENT. 

The narrow entrance to the inner harbour, may by some be considered adrawback, but on the other hand, it must be borne in mind, that what isan impediment to navigation, is also a safeguard against attack. Moreover, from this want of breadth in the harbour, a fort on PointRecord, which is commanded by no height, would perfectly protect it. 

It was from this confined portion that our anxious desire to catch aglimpse of the new settlement was at length gratified; and we weresomewhat surprised, considering the recent date of its formation, todiscover the presence of so many buildings as were scattered over the topof a cliffy point on the south-west part of the harbour, called AdamHead, at the base of which was a long jetty. 

Clearing the bank off Spear Point, we ran up and anchored near H. M. S. Britomart, lying off the settlement, early in the afternoon. The sight ofanother vessel is ever cheering to the hearts of those who have been, asit were, for a time, cut off from the world;* nor was our arrival, bringing, as we did, news and letters, any less welcome; though after along interval the receipt of a letter, perhaps bearing an ill omen in thevery colour of its wax, is very far from generating unmixed emotions ofpleasure. So much may occur in the brief space of a few months, that aseal must ever be broken with feelings of great anxiety. 

(*Footnote. I well remember the sensations I experienced on first seeinga sail after an interval of nine months, and that wholly spent on thestorm-beaten shores of South-western Tierra Del Fuego. J. L. S. )

PORT ESSINGTON. 

We too had our share of news to be made acquainted with. Captain Stanleyhad been on a most interesting cruise to the Arru Islands, the deeplyinteresting narrative of which expedition the reader will peruse, we aresure, with unqualified satisfaction, in a later section of the presentwork. This meeting gave me real pleasure, though with regret I saw thathe had been much harassed. Lieutenant P. B. Stewart, * of the Alligator, had also made a journey over the Peninsula, to which I shall presentlyfurther allude. 

(*Footnote. Since promoted for services in China; he also served in theBeagle during her last expedition. )

We were of course extremely anxious to visit the settlement. Landing atthe jetty, which we found a very creditable piece of workmanship erectedunder the direction of Lieutenant P. B. Stewart, we ascended the cliff, and on gaining the summit, found ourselves on a small piece of tablelandpartially cleared. Seen through the trees, the dwellings of the settlershad an air of neatness, pleasing to the eye. Among the other buildings inprogress was the church, which, planted as it was on the northern shoresof the Australian continent, was expected to form a nucleus from whichoffshoots might by degrees draw within its influence the islands in theArafura Sea, and thus widely spread the pure blessings of Christianity. It is highly characteristic of our countrymen, that where with othernations, the tavern, the theatre, the dancing-house, are among theearliest buildings in a new settlement, with us everywhere the church isfirst thought of. In few corners of the world, where English influencehas extended itself, is this otherwise than true, and it is a highlyenviable distinction. It seems, indeed, that wherever the flag of Britainfloats, there is made known the Word of God in its purity; and as anempire has been vouchsafed us on which the sun never sets, the extent ofour influence for good in this respect is incalculable. We may venture toexpress our sincere hope, that our country will ever continue to enjoythis noble supremacy. 

At the south-east extremity of the settlement, raised on piles, was theGovernment-house, fronted on the harbour side by a small battery. Behindthe table-plain, the land, producing very coarse grass, falls away to thesouth-west, and some clear patches which from lying in a low situation, are flooded during the rains, form tolerable soil. Generally speaking, however, there is a great deficiency of land fit for cultivation. On someof the best spots lying to the southward and westward, gardens have beencommenced with some success. 

Before proceeding further with our journal of events at Port Essington, it may be proper to introduce some brief account of the state andprospects of the settlement at that place. The reader will remember anallusion in a previous chapter to the departure from Sydney of theexpedition despatched for the purpose of forming it, as well as someremarks on the policy of giving it a purely military character. Thatexpedition reached its destination on October 27, 1838, having takenformal possession on the way, of Cape York and the adjacent territory. Sir Gordon Bremer's first care was to select a site for the proposedtownship; and after due deliberation, a spot was fixed on which wasthought to combine all desirable advantages: as good soil, theneighbourhood of fresh water, and easy approach from the ships in port. In the selection of the spot to be occupied by a settlement, thecapabilities of the soil must ever be the first consideration; still, however, there will always exist an objection on the ground of its greatdistance of 16 miles from the mouth of the harbour. A similardisadvantage in the Falkland Islands, proved of great detriment to thesettlement in Berkeley Sound. 

The site of Victoria, for such was the name bestowed, in honour of herMajesty, on the new settlement, is raised in the loftiest part aboutfifty feet above high-water level. Upon it the plans of a number ofcottages and gardens were rapidly marked out; and it was not long beforethis hitherto desolate spot presented the appearance of a largestraggling village. A pier was speedily run out into the sea; and a goodroad cut to it. The church, also, which I have before mentioned, was soonto be distinguished, rising above the Government cottage and officers'quarters; while in order to ensure an ample supply of water, deep wellswere sunk on the tableland within the settlement, which fully answeredexpectation, the water proving good and abundant. 

Not long after the arrival of the expedition, M. Dumont D'Urville, withthe Astrolabe and Zelie, arrived in Raffles Bay, and it was popularlybelieved that they had entertained some intentions of forestalling oursettlement. At any rate, the question whether foreign powers wereentitled to take possession of points on the coast of Australia was muchdebated at the time. However this may be, and with whatever feelings therespective Governments of France and England may have regarded each otherat the time, the officers of the two nations seemed to vie in courtesy. Aboat was despatched from Victoria to invite them to enter the harbour, and the greatest harmony prevailed during their stay. 

On the 28th of March, six Malay proas came in and were soon followed byothers, their owners soliciting permission to erect their establishmentsfor curing trepang under the protection of the British flag. This beinggranted, they made choice of a spot on the beach, and a little subsidiarysettlement soon sprung up. Being now for the first time secure from theattacks of the natives, whose hostility had until then forced every otherman of them to keep under arms whilst the rest worked, they expected topursue their occupation with far greater advantage to themselves. Originally hopes were entertained that a very large population of Malays, and even Chinese would speedily collect at Port Essington: but from somedefect in the colonial regulations their immigration was for a timechecked. At length, however, a remedy has been applied, and facilitygiven for the introduction of settlers from the Indian Archipelago andthe Celestial Empire. 

The great difficulty that this small settlement has had to contend withfrom the beginning, is the climate; which, though not absolutelypernicious in itself, is unsuited to European constitutions. The settlershave been attacked at various times by fever, and have experienced alarge comparative mortality; but hopes are entertained that by properregulations, especially if temperate habits could be introduced, this maybe avoided. 

The capabilities of the soil, though it has by some been pronouncedtotally unfit for agricultural purposes, are still supposed by others tobe great, and it is believed that if colonists, capable of working in theclimate, could be induced to repair to Port Essington, rice, cotton, indigo, etc. Might be raised, of the finest quality, and in greatabundance. 

The livestock at the settlements, consisted, by the last accounts, of anEnglish cow and a bull, two Indian heifers and two cows, above fiftygoats, six working oxen, thirty buffaloes, six pigs, a few fowls, fiveponies, and thirty half-greyhounds for catching kangaroos. Some of thesewere private, others public property. Several cattle have been lost, onhearing which, a plan that had before suggested itself, recurred vividlyto my mind. I once thought the herds of buffalo and other animals mightbe prevented from straying, by a fence run across the Peninsula, betweenMount Norris Bay, and the north-east corner of Van Diemen's Gulf. Thewidth is only three miles, and the rude Micmac Indians of Newfoundland, have carried fences for a similar purpose many times that extent. Thenecessity of so doing became more apparent each time I visited the place, especially when I heard of herds of buffaloes being seen upon the main. Another advantage which occurred to me in connection with this subject, was, that it would have rendered an out-station necessary, and have thusled to a further communication with the natives, which would ultimatelytend to increase our knowledge of them and the interior; this after oursubsequent discovery of Adelaide river became of still greater moment. The existence of the out-station would also form a change for thesettlers, and journeys thither would remove the dreary inactivity of anew settlement at certain periods. The absence of this fence may accountfor Captain Grey's party having seen signs of buffalo on the mainland; hediscovered the tracks of a cloven-footed animal, which one of his men whohad been much in South Africa, at once recognised as the spur of abuffalo. But one advantage can arise from the want of this precaution. Some of the finest lands in the neighbourhood of Sydney, now called CowPastures, were discovered, by finding them to be the constant haunt ofwild cattle; a similar accident might prove equally advantageous in theneighbourhood of Port Essington. 

To return, however, to the period of the establishment of the colony: itwas of course deemed desirable to take an early opportunity of exploringCobourg Peninsula, on which Victoria is situated; and accordingly on May1st, Lieutenant P. B. Stewart, with several well-armed companions, startedon an exploring expedition. They carried water and a week's provisions ontwo ponies, but did not encumber themselves with a tent; shelteringthemselves at night from the dew in little huts made of branches. On thesecond day they crossed several running streams, with extensive grassypatches, and came to a halt during the sultry part of the day on thebanks of a river or chain of pools. Here grew many fine cedar-trees, of alight colour and close-grained, while thick woods of the mangroveappeared on all sides: these much impeded their advance, and preventedthem from making any great progress. However, they crossed to the easternside of the Peninsula, where they found a rich and beautiful country, insome parts reminding them of the rich South American forest, rather thanthe dreary sameness of an Australian wood. Numerous tracks of the buffaloseemed to testify to the excellence of the pasture. Several evidences, also, of the presence of natives were from time to time discovered, andat length a small party met them and exhibited a very friendly spirit. They acted as guides to the explorers, showing them where water could befound, giving every information in their power, and supplying them withcrabs; but of course they did not fail to ask for bread, of which as muchas could be spared was given them. On May 8th, they conducted LieutenantStewart's party back to Middle Head, and he expresses great surprise atthe precision with which they found their way in the bush without havingany apparent means to guide them. I have before alluded to thisinstinctive power of the aborigines of Australia. 

Lieutenant Stewart gives as the general result of his observations, extending over about seventy or eighty miles, that there is abundance offresh water on the Peninsula; that the South side is by far the finestand best watered country; that the trees are there free from the whiteant; and that in a large tract of country, the cabbage-palm abounds. Healso observes, that as much of the south coast as he saw, has a coralreef extending about a mile from the beach; and that the rise and fall ofthe tide is much greater than at Port Essington. 

The natives were found by the settlers, as we have already stated, veryfriendly, and their assistance proved valuable: they brought in the headof the palm-cabbage, which makes an excellent vegetable, though toprocure it, the tree is cut down and destroyed: they also supplied theparty with wild honey. One of the Raffles Bay tribe instantly madehimself known on the arrival of the Expedition in the Bay; he was calledby the name of Alligator, on account of his huge teeth, though his properappellation was Marambari. 

From Lieutenant Vallach* of H. M. S. Britomart, I received much valuableinformation respecting the natives, whom I find to be divided in threedistinct classes, which do not intermarry. The first is known asMaudrojilly, the second as Mamburgy, the third as Mandrouilly. They arevery particular about the distinction of classes, but we could neverdiscover which was the superior and which the inferior class, though itis supposed by most of those who have inquired into the subject, that theMadrojilly, or first class, head the others in war, and govern theaffairs of the tribe. 

(*Footnote. Lieutenant Vallach died at Moulmain in 1841. )

These aborigines were certainly a fine race, differing in some mattersfrom the other natives of Australia; their hair was neither curly norstraight, but crisp. The custom of extracting a front tooth prevailsamong them, while the nasal cartilage here as elsewhere was perforated. Inoticed in particular that they did not make use of the boomerang, orkiley, but of the throwing stick or womera, of a larger kind, however, than any I have observed elsewhere; the head of their spears was made ofstone. They have a smaller kind, chiefly used to kill birds and otheranimals at a considerable distance. They have also large heavy clubs, while the natives on the South coast carry only the short throwingstick. * They go wholly naked, except when entering the settlements, onwhich occasions they wear a few leaves. Their canoes were chieflyobtained from the Malays. 

(*Footnote. We refer our readers to Mr. Eyre's work, where these andother weapons are figured. )

I here saw the only musical instrument I ever remarked among the nativesof Australia. It is a piece of bamboo thinned from the inside, throughwhich they blow with their noses. It is from two to three feet long, iscalled ebroo, and produces a kind of droning noise. It is generally madeuse of at corrobories or dances, some of which express feats of huntingand war, while others are very indecent, and reminded us of similarexhibitions in the East. It was generally remarked that the old clothesgiven to these savages disappeared in a most mysterious manner. They wereunderstood to be sold to the natives inhabiting the loftier parts of theinterior, but of this I entertain very considerable doubt. Sand, in whichthe Australian continent abounds, is like everything else proceeding fromthe hand of the Creator, not without its uses. On cold nights the nativesmake up for their total want of covering, by burying themselves in it, and nothing can be more irresistibly comic than to see these black lumpssticking out of the earth, like so many enchanted unfortunates in aneastern romance. It moreover has other uses, forming a substitute forsoap;* and when cooking turtle it is mixed with earth and sprinkled overthe meat, as we should pepper. 

(*Footnote. Their general habits are cleanly. )

One discovery which was made through the medium of the natives, was thatthe large tumuli noticed by Captain King and others, and supposed to beraised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird; some of them arethirty feet long and about five feet high; they are always built nearthick bushes in which they can take shelter, at the least alarm. Theedifice is erected with the feet, which are remarkable both for size andstrength, and a peculiar power of grasping; they are yellow while thebody is brown. Nothing can be more curious than to see them hoppingtowards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materialsfor building. Though much smaller in shape, in manner they much resemblemoor-fowl. The use made of the mound is to contain eggs, which aredeposited in layers, and are then hatched by the heat generated in partfrom decomposition. The instant that the shell bursts, the young birdcomes forth strong and large, and runs without the slightest care beingtaken of it by the parent. Of the number of eggs laid by each bird, seldom more than two are hatched. It is singular that these mounds arefound away from the earth and shells of which they are composed. It seemsdifficult to credit that a bird so small could raise a structure solarge. The largest we ever saw was about eight feet high, on one of thePossession Islands in Endeavour Strait. 

The name given to the bird by Mr. Gould is Megapodius tumulus, and itwill be unnecessary toenter upon any further details concerning it, as he has described it mostinterestingly in his work on the birds of Australia. 

Great numbers of kangaroos were also found here, which at the period ofour arrival the settlers were just getting into the way of killing. Thereare three varieties, of which the largest weighs about 160 pounds. I mustfurther allude to a most beautiful little opossum which inhabits theseparts. It is about half the size of a full-grown rat, and designated asBelideus ariel. Its colour and fur greatly resemble the chinchilla, and Ihave little doubt that the skin is valuable and might be made an articleof trade. This animal has a membrane between the fore and hind paws, which aids it to some extent when leaping from bough to bough. It is agreat enemy to the wild bee, devouring them and their nests; the bees thenatives discover by tapping the tree and listening for a buzzing fromwithin. Those we saw, amounting to nearly a hundred, were about the sizeof a fly, of a dusky black colour, and strange to say, were hoveringround an empty tar-barrel. They have been unsuccessfully tried in hivesat Sydney. 

Alligators abound, and one of the marines had a very narrow escape fromthem. It appears that one of these monsters who had come out of the waterin the night, in search of food, found him sleeping in his hammock, whichhe had very injudiciously hung up near the water. The alligator made asnap at his prize; but startled at this frightful interruption of hisslumbers, the man dexterously extricated himself out of his blanket, which the unwieldy brute, doubtless enraged at his disappointment, carried off in triumph. For some time this story was not believed, butwhen afterwards the huge reptile, on a similar excursion, was shot, aportion of the blanket was found in his stomach with the paw of afavourite spaniel, taken when swimming off the pier head. 

Extensive hauls of fish were made on Point Record, amongst which onespecies, there called salmon, was most excellent eating. 

It is unnecessary for a transient visitor to enlarge upon the birds ofPort Essington, as in Mr. Gould's work we have the result of the laboursof an individual who spent months collecting in the neighbourhood. 

The spot selected for our observations was Government House, where nearlya hundred observations with the sun and stars were made for latitude, themean result being 11 degrees 22 minutes 21 seconds South, which strangeto say, was nearly 15 seconds greater than Captain Stanley and Mr. Tyers'determination: this difference to me was quite unaccountable, as theinstruments used in the Beagle were before and subsequently, satisfactorily tested at well determined places. The longitude beingaffected by the doubtful meridian distance between Sydney and PortStephens, we can only give an approximate result; and therefore for thesake of the longitudes of those places referred to the meridian of PortEssington, we consider it 132 degrees 12 minutes East of Greenwich. 

From the quantity of iron in the rocks at Victoria, it was impossible toget any satisfactory observation for the variation of the compass. Thoseobtained varied from 3/4 to 2 1/2 degrees east. 

We found that Mr. Tyers had made about seven months' observations on thetides, which gave a very irregular rise and fall, varying from two tothirteen feet. The time of high-water being half past three, at the fulland change. Oxide of iron is found in some places in large quantities, and is used by the natives to adorn themselves when dancing. This it iswhich gives to the coast the peculiar red hue noticed between Cape Crokerand Port Essington. Many of the cliffs were composed of a light-colouredmarl; but the formation is chiefly old arenaceous rocks. Two of thehighest and most remarkable hills on the Peninsula, known as MountsBedwell and Rose, have singular flat tops, bearing some resemblance tothe curious appearance of Cape Bedford. I am inclined to believe thisformation to be floetz trappe. Their elevation is about four hundredfeet, being twice the general height of the Peninsula. 

RAFFLES BAY. 

The temperature during our stay averaged 82 degrees while land and seabreezes prevailed. We should not omit to mention, that LieutenantStewart, when visiting Raffles Bay in order to invite the French officersas above alluded to, found that a deep inlet intervening, formed a goodharbour, to which he gave the name of Port Bremer. Of the old settlementnothing remained, save the graves of those whose labours had tended torender this part of Australia another outlet for the surplus populationof the mother country, extending at the same time the blessings ofcivilization. The rapid growth of rank vegetation had swept all elseaway, and there in solemn solitude, upon that still and silent shore, mouldered the bones of the original colonists of Raffles Bay, whosepraiseworthy efforts were rendered futile, by the unfavourable reportsforwarded to Government; reports we cannot think entirely free fromprejudice, when we know from Captain Law's account, that one of theCommandants declared that he felt disposed to sell out of the army inpreference to going there. * One thus prepared to dislike the place, couldscarcely be expected to take an interest in the country, or endeavourfully to develop its resources. 

(*Footnote. See Wilson's Voyage round the World page 153. )

We cannot avoid expressing our regret at the abandonment of thesettlement in Raffles Bay, after it had gone on so far successfully underCaptain Barker's excellent management. In mentioning his kindness to thenatives, to whose goodwill we must always owe much, we have already givenone of the causes which assisted in fostering the undertaking. Nothingcould be more unwise than the hostility shown to the natives by the firstsettlers, as from them we must always calculate on learning much that isuseful and valuable, with regard to the productions of the country; aknowledge which would otherwise consume much time to acquire. This wasnot the only matter, however, in which he showed his superior good senseand judgment. His enticing the people of Macassar to come and locatethere, was another instance of his foresight, which would have led intime to very favourable results. He was soon, however, compelled toretract his invitation, writing from Coepang to the Dutch Governor ofMacassar, in order to stop the immigration, which otherwise would havebeen considerable. With all these several elements of success, we shoulddoubtless, but for the abandonment, have now had a flourishing settlementin Northern Australia. The causes which led to its breaking up, are thussuccinctly given by Dr. Wilson. "The alleged causes were: first, theunhealthiness of the climate; secondly, the hostility of the natives; andthirdly, the non-visitation of the Malays. "

These he clearly proved, as we have subsequently done, to be without muchfoundation; but we ourselves do not so much deplore the leaving ofRaffles Bay, perhaps an ill-chosen site, but rather that the settlementwas not removed instead of being given up. When the anxieties anddifficulties which universally accompany the formation of a newsettlement are reflected on, the regret we have already expressed will bemore easily understood. When Port Essington was located, all these had tobe suffered over again; whereas had the station at Raffles Bay, beentransferred thither at once, it would have been now at a very high pitchof perfection. Besides, however small the spot on which the English flagwaves constantly, it will always prove a check on the maraudingpropensities of the neighbouring islanders, and thus add materially tothe general welfare and civilization of such portions of the globe asfall within the influence of the respected locality. *

(*Footnote. In further proof of the prospects of success, which were opento the new settlement under its able Commandant, we give the followingextract from Dr. Wilson's journal, when at Coepang, in company withCaptain Barker, after their final departure from Raffles Bay. "We wereinformed by the master of the Mercus, that many Chinese were about toemigrate from Java to Raffles Bay, having recently learned that theywould be permitted to do so. The total abandonment of the North coast ofNew Holland caused much regret to the mercantile people here, as they hadanticipated great advantages from a commercial intercourse. ' Wilson'sNarrative page 179. )

LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON. 

July 24. 

Finding that we could not procure a supply of provisions from thesettlement, our stay was necessarily, though reluctantly, of shortduration, and on the morning of the 24th, we were accordingly running outof Port Essington. After rounding Vashon Head, we steered to thewestward, along the northern side of the Peninsula, and early in theafternoon anchored in Popham Bay, one point of which is formed by theNorth-West extreme of the Peninsula, a low projection with one tallmangrove growing on the point, and fronted by an extensive coral reef, past which a two-knot tide sweeps into the gulf of Van Diemen. On theeastern side of this projection is a snug boat or small-craft harbour, much frequented by the Malays, who call it Blue-mud Bay. It may berecognized by a little island lying off its mouth. 

Our attention having been directed towards the openings on the coastopposite Melville Island, we proceeded towards the first, lying on thesouth side of Clarence Strait. It was further important to ascertain, ifthat strait was navigable, and also to examine the south-eastern side ofMelville Island. 

BIRD ISLAND. 

Finding the western shore of Cobourg Peninsula placed too far from PortEssington on the chart, it was determined to commence the survey atPopham Bay, choosing for the observation spot a small bank of sand anddead coral lying in its centre, and bearing East 1/2 South 1/4 of a milefrom where we anchored in nine fathoms. We named this Bird Island, fromfinding it almost covered with terns and gulls. The latitude of itaccording to our observations was 11 degrees 15 1/2 minutes South andlongitude West of Port Essington 22 1/2 miles, being 4 1/2 less than isgiven in Captain King's chart, the North-West extreme of the Peninsulabeing there placed too far from Port Essington, and the North-East point, Cape Croker, too near, it would appear that the discrepancy was chieflyin the position of Port Essington, with respect to the northern extremesof the Peninsula, as Captain King and ourselves only now differ two milesin the distance between Cape Croker and Popham Bay, ours being thegreater. The evening was calm as usual, while midnight brought with it afresh South-East wind. During the night the temperature was as low as 73degrees. 

July 25. 

On leaving at daylight we crossed over to examine the western shores ofDundas Strait, formed by the eastern side of Melville Island; CaptainKing having passed it in the night. As we stood close along it into thegulf, we found the soundings very irregular. Six miles North 40 degreesEast from Cape Keith, we passed over two patches of only three or fourfathoms; these we could not see from the general disturbed anddiscoloured state of the water, it blowing fresh from South-East. Wefound the nature of this part of Melville Island to be low rocky points, separating sandy bays. One of the few remarkable features on it, is around hill 320 feet high, five miles North-West from Cape Keith. 

CLARENCE STRAIT. 

Passing the latter, we crossed over to the opposite eastern entrancepoint of Clarence Strait, Cape Hotham, discovering on our way thither areef nearly awash, about two miles in extent, bearing South 25 degreesWest fifteen miles from Cape Keith, and North 10 degrees East fourteenmiles from Cape Hotham. The deepest water we found while crossing was 22fathoms, five miles north of the latter, the general depth being 13 and15 fathoms. The wind failing in the afternoon, it was evening when wereached our anchorage in nine fathoms, Cape Hotham bearing South 43 West, two miles and a half, and close to the edge of a large shoal which wesubsequently found to extend a mile and a half north, and six miles eastfrom the Cape. Here we found the tides set West by South andEast-North-East from half a knot to two knots, the westerly streambeginning nearly three hours after high-water, a peculiarity generallyoccurring in straits. 

July 26. 

After one of those soft and lovely evenings so common to this part ofAustralia, with a gentle breeze and cloudless sky, we were surprised tofind that the morning opened dreary and gloomy. There was a very freshSouth-South-East wind with heavy masses of clouds; the breeze continueduntil noon, when as usual it subsided. We moved the ship a few miles downthe opening in the south side of the strait, and in the afternoon a partywent on shore near Cape Hotham. We found the country very poor and sandy, and elevated about fifteen feet above high-water mark. Despite this, thewhite gum-trees appear to thrive, growing in great abundance, aboutthirty or forty feet high; there were also others of a different kind, besides a few palms. The rocks were red sand and ironstone blendedtogether. In some places I noticed it had the same glazed and vitrifiedappearance, as before remarked by me at King's Sound, on the North-Westcoast. 

Mr. Bynoe, who was of the party, added to his collection of birds, akingfisher, and a specimen of a glossy species about the size and colourof an English blackbird; others were seen and killed, but all common toother parts; the most rare of the latter was the large cream-colouredpigeon I have alluded to, some few pages back. 

NATIVE COMPANION. 

The white ibis with a black neck, plentiful in King's Sound, and a largebird, a species of crane, were also seen. The latter was of a French greyhue, with the exception of the head, which was black and of the shape ofa bittern, commonly known among the colonists by the name of nativecompanion. It is difficult to imagine how this name could haveoriginated, as there is no instance of the natives making a pet ofanything, except the wild dog of the country, and of that only, it isprobable, from its utility in procuring them food. On visiting this placea few days afterwards, to repeat the observations for the errors of thechronometers, we saw a few natives, but they avoided an interview, disappearing when we landed. They made the same motions with their arms, throwing them open, and bowing as the natives in King's Sound did. Thefew huts I fell in with, reminded me of one I had seen near theNorth-West part of King's Sound, a representation of which will be foundin the portion of the work descriptive of that locality. 

Those on Cape Hotham, to enter more into particulars, did not exceed fivefeet in height, nor were they so substantially built; they were, however, well thatched with the same kind of coarse grass. The entrances werecarefully closed, except in one instance, when the aperture was so smallthat it was with difficulty I could crawl in; when I had entered therewas nothing to gratify my curiosity. 

NATIVE CLOTHING. 

Hanging on trees round these habitations, were specimens of an article ofclothing, never before seen among the Aborigines of Australia, for whichreason I have been induced to give the woodcut of one. * It is a kind ofcovering for the shoulders, a species of cape, made from coarse grass. 

(*Footnote. I have since heard from Mr. Earl, that the women in theSouth-East part of Van Diemen's Gulf, occasionally wear a covering roundtheir waist, somewhat similar to the representation given. )

Baskets were also left hanging on the trees, bespeaking the honesty ofthe inhabitants of this part of the country. 

The land near the huts was turned up in search of roots, and close bywere some large clubs. The thermometer fell in the night to 67 degrees, producing the novel though pleasant sensation of cold. 

July 27. 

Although apparently we could trace the land, near the head of the openingor bay, still the great set of tide in that direction, left hopes of itsbeing the mouth of a river. We havealready alluded to the difficulty of detecting the mouth of Australianstreams, and the doubts thus engendered occasioned the greater anxiety. 

Impatient to learn the truth, Mr. Fitzmaurice was despatched to examinethe head of the bay, whilst the ship was moved towards it, anchoringagain one mile North-West from a very remarkable patch of low red cliffs(which from startling circumstances, hereafter to be related, were calledEscape Cliffs) and only two cables length distant from the coral ledge, by which this and the shores around were fronted. 

VISIT THE SHORE. 

Here another party visited the shore, and those whose occupation did notrender their presence necessary near the water, strolled into thecountry, penetrating about four or five miles inland, but they wererewarded by the sight of no novelty, or even variety in the scenery, beyond what was presented to our view on the visit to Cape Hotham, whichit will readily be allowed was little enough. Indeed it will in generalbe found, that in Australia, a change of formation is necessary toproduce any of the scenery, which otherwise exhibits a most monotonoussameness. 

A coarse kind of ironstone gravel was (if I may use the term) scatteredover the face of the country; some of it had a glazed appearance on thesurface, being hollow within, and about the size of a musket ball. Properly speaking they are composed of a ferruginous sandstone, but theyhave been already more fully alluded to when first met with at PointCunningham, near King's Sound, on the North-West coast. The generalformation is the same as at Cape Hotham, itself almost identical with therocks at Port Essington. A few traces of small kangaroos were seen; butnot a bird or any other living thing two miles from the beach. Thispeculiarity the reader will remember was also noticed in theneighbourhood of King's Sound. 

DISCOVERY OF ADELAIDE RIVER. 

On returning to the ship we found that Mr. Fitzmaurice had arrived, bringing the expected, and very gratifying intelligence, that a largeriver with two branches, running South-East and South, with a depth offour fathoms, emptied itself into the head of the bay. The joy adiscovery of this nature imparts to the explorer, when examining acountry so proverbially destitute of rivers as Australia, is much moreeasily imagined than described. It formed a species of oasis amid theordinary routine of surveying, rousing our energies, and giving universaldelight. The castle-builders were immediately at work, with expectationsbeyond the pale of reason. 

EXPLORING PARTY. 

An exploring party, however, was at once formed, consisting of CaptainWickham, Lieutenant Emery, and Mr. Helpman, who--the next day beingSunday--did not leave before the morning of the 29th, with two boats andfour days' provisions. 

Many were the anxious and envious looks bestowed on the party as theyleft the ship on the deeply interesting service of exploring the newriver. So strong and native is man's desire for the unknown, that hisfeelings are never more tried than when on the brink of a discovery, while those who are in presence of the novelty, and cannot enjoy thesatisfaction of tasting that pleasure, must ever experience somewhatacute emotions of regret. 

There was no difficulty in finding a name for a river which fell intoClarence Strait; it was at once, therefore, honoured with that ofAdelaide, after her most gracious Majesty the Queen Dowager. The bay thatreceives its waters was called after Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Adam. Theremaining part of the south side of Clarence Strait, together with theislands in the western entrance of it, gave ample, though not suchinteresting employment as the exploration of the Adelaide, to those whowere left behind. Several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, fish in Adam Bay being very scarce. 

NATIVE FAMILY. 

Near Escape Cliffs I met a small family of natives, consisting of anelderly man, his wife, and four children; by degrees, advancing alone, Icontrived to get near enough to make the woman a present of ahandkerchief, in return for which she gave me a large leaf of the cabbagepalm, that was slung across her back. I at length drew all the familyaround me, the eldest child, a youth of about 15, being the most timid. He had a small piece of wood two feet long, sticking through thecartilage of his nose. His teeth and those of the other children werequite perfect, but in the father and mother two of the upper front oneswere gone, as we before noticed was the case with the natives at PortEssington, where this ceremony is performed after marriage. The hair ofthese people was neither curly nor straight, but what I have beforecalled crisp, being of that wavy nature sometimes noticed in Europeans. 

They had with them three small-sized dogs of a light brown colour, ofwhich they appeared very fond, and I could not induce them to part withthem. 

The old man's spear was not barbed, and the womera or throwing stick ofthe same long narrow shape as at Port Essington. The woman had also thesame bottle-shaped basket slung over her neck, as before remarked, andcontaining white and red earths for painting their bodies. 

CURIOSITY AND FEAR. 

These people exhibited more curiosity than I had before noticed in theAborigines, as I was able to induce them to visit the whaleboat that wason shore close by. Here, as in other places, the size of the oars firstastonished them, and next the largeness of the boat itself. Theexclamations of surprise given vent to by the old man as he gazed on theworkmanship of his civilized brethren, were amusing; suddenly a loudshout would burst from his lips, and then a low whistle. I watched therapid change of countenance in this wild savage with interest; all hismotions were full of matter for observation. The mixed curiosity anddread depicted in his dusky face, the feeling of secret alarm at thisfirst rencontre with a white man intruding in his native wilds, which hemust have experienced, added much to the zest of the scene. I, however, at length almost persuaded the old man to accompany me on board; he evenput one foot in the boat for the purpose, when seeing the depth of theinterior, he recoiled with a slight shudder, as if from immersion in coldwater. He was now overwhelmed by the woman and elder child withentreaties not to take such a rash step, and their rude eloquencesucceeded. 

It was amusing to see the struggle between fear and curiosity plainlydepicted in the man's face, as he stood with one foot on the boat, andthe other on the shore, hearkening but too credulously to the picture ofdanger, forcibly drawn by his friends, while curiosity, with almost equalstrength, was urging him to dare the perils of the white man's boat. 

A desire to be better acquainted with the strangers who had come to theshores of his native land in a large bird--such being their strange ideaof a ship, the sails forming the wings--no doubt materially influencedhim; but the eloquence of his relatives prevailed over all; and thisinteresting interview terminated by our leaving the shore without oursable friend, who, however, promised to visit the ship in an old barkcanoe, about 20 feet long, that was lying on the beach near at hand. Thispromise was faithfully kept, for the same evening, a canoe was seenpaddling off, containing two young natives in addition to the old man. They stopped at some distance from the ship, moving round to view her onall sides. 

ATTEMPT TO ENTICE NATIVES ON BOARD. 

Fearing at last that their courage had failed, and that they would notcome on board, the dinghy, our smallest boat, was sent towards them, there being only a boy besides myself in it. 

I had hoped that thus they would not be frightened, but they instantlybegan to move towards the shore, and it required some manoeuvring to getnear them; succeeding at length, however, I found my acquaintance of themorning anxious to go to the ship, a measure the other two did not at allapprove of, as they kept edging away towards the land, whilst I gave theold man the presents I had brought him. At one time the dinghy gotbetween the canoe and the shore, when instantly a gleam of terror flashedacross the faces of the young men. One of them was a large square-headedfellow of ferocious aspect, whose countenance was lit up by a look offierce revenge, as the canoe made towards the land, after I had ceased myendeavours to entice them on board. 

Whatever these people may have imagined to be our motive in wishing themto visit the ship, I little thought that my pressing them would have sonearly led to fatal results. I shall proceed to explain this remark byrelating the startling circumstances from which Escape Cliffs receivedtheir name. 

NARROW ESCAPE OF MR. FITZMAURICE. 

A few days after my interview in the dinghy with the natives, Mr. Fitzmaurice went ashore to compare the compasses. From the quantity ofiron contained in the rocks, it was necessary to select a spot free fromtheir influence. A sandy beach at the foot of Escape Cliffs wasaccordingly chosen. The observations had been commenced, and were abouthalf completed, when on the summit of the cliffs, which rose about twentyfeet above their heads, suddenly appeared a large party of natives withpoised and quivering spears, as if about immediately to deliver them. Stamping on the ground, and shaking their heads to and fro, they threwout their long shaggy locks in a circle, whilst their glaring eyesflashed with fury as they champed and spit out the ends of their longbeards. * They were evidently in earnest, and bent on mischief. 

(*Footnote. A custom with Australian natives when in a state of violentexcitement. )

DANCING FOR LIFE. 

It was, therefore, not a little surprising to behold this paroxysm ofrage evaporate before the happy presence of mind displayed by Mr. Fitzmaurice, in immediately beginning to dance and shout, though inmomentary expectation of being pierced by a dozen spears. In this he wasimitated by Mr. Keys, who was assisting in the observations, and who atthe moment was a little distance off, and might have escaped. Without, however, thinking of himself, he very nobly joined his companion inamusing the natives; and they succeeded in diverting them from theirevident evil designs, until a boat landing in a bay near drew off theirattention. The foremost of this party was recognised to be theill-looking fellow, who left me in the canoe with a revengeful scowl uponhis face. 

Messrs. Fitzmaurice and Keys had firearms lying on the ground withinreach of their hands; the instant, however, they ceased dancing, andattempted to touch them, a dozen spears were pointed at their breasts. Their lives hung upon a thread, and their escape must be regarded astruly wonderful, and only to be attributed to the happy readiness withwhich they adapted themselves to the perils of their situation. This wasthe last we saw of the natives in Adam Bay, and the meeting is likely tobe long remembered by some, and not without pleasant recollections; foralthough, at the time, it was justly looked upon as a very seriousaffair, it afterwards proved a great source of mirth. No one could recallto mind, without laughing, the ludicrous figure necessarily cut by ourshipmates, when to amuse the natives, they figured on the light fantastictoe; and the readers, who look at the plate representing this reallyserious affair, * will behold two men literally dancing for their lives. 

(*Footnote. See above. )

RETURN OF THE BOATS. 

August 2. 

This morning the boats returned; they had gone up the Adelaide in ageneral southerly direction, nearly 80 miles: the windings of the river, which were very great in some places, forming the shape of the letter S. It became at this distance very narrow, and was divided into twobranches, one taking a southerly direction, the other an easterly; thelatter was too narrow for the boat's oars, while the former was blockedup by fallen trees lying across it. As in addition to the difficultiesjust mentioned, only one day's provision remained in the boats, thefurther exploration of the Adelaide was necessarily, though reluctantly, abandoned. 

BANKS OF THE ADELAIDE. 

For thirty miles of the upper part of the river the water was fresh;while the banks, excepting near the point of separation, were low, beingnot more than five feet above the present level of the river, acircumstance very favourable for irrigation, and the cultivation of rice. Fifteen miles from the mouth they were fringed by the growth ofmangroves; and higher up many of the points were thickly wooded, while oneither side stretched a vast extent of prairie country, dotted here andthere with islands of timber, which served to break the native monotonyof the scene. Somewhat less than halfway up, rose on both banks a thickjungle of bamboo, which, in places where the water was always fresh, attained the gigantic height of from 60 to 80 feet. Between 20 and 70miles from the mouth the soil is a good light-coloured mould; above this, commencing where the bank of the river is marked by a coarse red grittysandstone projection, the aspect of the country changes from that of lowplains to a slightly wooded and gently undulating surface, in some placesstony. This character continued to the furthest point reached in theboats, in latitude 12 degrees 57 minutes South, and longitude 131 degrees19 minutes East. 

When they had penetrated thus far into the new lands of Australia, theexplorers returned, having experienced those sensations of delightfulexcitement, to which we have before alluded, and which naturally calledforth strong emotions of regret in those who were denied a participationin the feverish enjoyment of discovery. 

From the highest tree at Captain Wickham's furthest point, the appearanceof the country was, as far as the eye could reach, one wearisome level, broken to the southward, at a distance of ten miles, by a rocky moundabout 150 feet high. 

UPPER PART OF THE RIVER. 

The river, which for some distance had not been fifty yards wide, with arocky bed in places, and banks from six to twenty feet high, was subjectat this point to a tidal change of level of about three feet, but therewas no perceptible stream, and the water which a few miles lower down hadbeen muddy, was here quite clear. Small bamboos and other drift wereobserved in the branches of the trees eight or ten feet above the water, showing the height which the river attains at some seasons of the year. By the hollows on many of the plains, water appeared to have lain sometime, and doubtless parts of this low land were periodically overflowed. 

On the point dividing the upper branches of the river some coarse sandwas washed up, which on examination was found to be of a graniticcharacter, clearly showing the primary formation of the country throughwhich the Adelaide flowed. The only rocks noticed in the parts traversedby the boats were, as I have before said, of red porous sandstone. Thesmoke of several large fires was observed up the country, but none of thenatives were seen. 

MONKEY-BIRDS. 

Towards the upper part of the river they noticed a strange bird, verymuch like a guineafowl in size and manner of running along the ground. The colour was speckled white and brown. This, doubtless, from Mr. Bynoe's description of one he wounded on the coast in the neighbourhoodof the Adelaide, must have been the Leipoa ocellata of Gould, one of themound or tumuli-building birds, first seen in Western Australia by Mr. George Moore, and afterwards on the North-west coast, and in SouthAustralia by Captain Grey. Although known to range over a large expanseof the continent, this was the first time it was discovered in NorthernAustralia. 

In the reaches where the bamboo grew, flights of large vampires(resembling the Pteropus rubricollis of Geoff. ) were met with: they keptcontinually flying to and fro close over the boats as they passed up, making a screeching disagreeable noise, which, however, was far lessunpleasant than the mildewy odour with which they filled the air, callingto mind the exclamation placed by our immortal bard in the mouth ofTrinculo. The heavy flap of the leathern wings of these monkey-birds, asthe men called them, was singular, while sometimes a flight would darkenthe verdure of a bamboo, which, yielding to their weight, bent low, as ifbefore a passing gust of wind. To fix themselves appeared always adifficult, and was certainly a noisy operation, each apparently strivingto alight upon the same spot. They first cling to the bamboo by means ofthe long claw, or hook attached to the outer edge of the wing, and thengradually settle themselves. 

The river swarmed with alligators. Fish also abounded; and in the saltwater, a kind commonly known in the river Plate by the name of Cat-fish, is plentiful. One that we caught was of the enormous weight of twentypounds. A large kind of dark bream of excellent flavour was taken infresh water. 

WOOD-DUCKS. 

Many of the reaches also swarmed with wildfowl, consisting almost whollyof ducks, which, from a habit of perching on the trees, have received thename of wood-ducks. They were very different and far superior in plumageto those found on the south-eastern parts of the continent, and as theyhave not yet been numbered among the Australian birds so vividlydescribed by Mr. Gould, we may venture to be somewhat minute indescribing them. 

They are inferior in size to the common European wild duck, but aremarked in much the same manner on the breast. The back is a dark brown, while the wings, still darker, are slightly bronzed at the tips. Theirsingularly long legs are of a pale flesh colour, while the web on thefoot is very much arched near the toes, giving greater pliability to thefoot and a power of grasping, which enables them to perch on trees. Thehead and bill, the latter of a pale ash colour, are both large. When onthe wing they make a peculiar though pleasing whistling sound, that canbe heard at a great distance, * and which changes as they alight, into asort of chatter. Their perching on trees is performed in a very clumsymanner, swinging and pitching to and fro. We subsequently often foundthem on the rivers on the North coast, but not within some miles of theirmouths or near their upper waters, from which it would appear that theyinhabit certain reaches of the rivers only: we never found them inswamps. The farthest south they were afterwards met with, was on theAlbert River in the Gulf of Carpentaria, in latitude 18 degrees South, which gives them a range of six and a half degrees of latitude over thenorthern part of the continent. Their nests never came under our notice, and consequently we are not aware either of the size or colour of theireggs; neither did we see any young birds during the period of ourobservation, ranging from July to November only. **

(*Footnote. Mr. Eyre has since informed me that there is awhistling-duck, something similar, on the Murray River, but is not awarethat it has the peculiar habit of perching on trees. )

(**Footnote. Mr. Gould, who had previously described this bird(Leptotarais Eytoni) being desirous of figuring it in his splendid work, has been furnished with this account. )

EXPLORATION OF THE SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE ADELAIDE. 

August 4. 

The southern arm of the Adelaide River, and about fifteen miles near themouth of the other branch, still remaining to be explored, I started onthis interesting service the day of the return of Captain Wickham, August4th. We soon found that the one we ascended promised nothing, from therebeing no tidal stream of any consequence; still we hoped to trace itsrejunction with the main branch, but after proceeding in a general Southby West direction five miles, and East-South-East the same distance, itbecame so narrow that the mangroves on each side entirely blocked up thepassage, and stopped the boat's progress. I here again felt theinconvenience of our not being furnished with one of the pendulumhorizons, invented by Captain Becher, R. N. * It being high-water, and asthe shore was lined with an impenetrable growth of mangroves, we wereunable to land. In vain did I try, by cutting down some of them, to finda rest for the artificial horizon on one of the stumps; they were soconnected with each other beneath the water, by a perfect network ofroots, that although several of the surrounding trees were felled, atremulous motion was still conveyed from a distance, and I consequentlylost the observation for latitude. 

(*Footnote. I strongly recommend this ingenious invention to everyseaman. In foggy weather it will save hours of anxiety, and may oftenprevent the horrors of shipwreck. )

The saltwater arm of the Adelaide we found had another branch, which tookus eight miles in a South-West direction, terminating like the other, andat low-water being a mere ditch. There was nothing picturesque infollowing the windings of these creeks or inlets; a tall growth ofmangroves with their stems immersed, rendering the view limited andwearisome. We, however, were urged on by hope, being in momentaryexpectation that each turn would bring some change, while to add to thezest of our proceedings we felt ourselves to be the first Europeans whohad traversed these parts. 

Now and then the deep stillness of nature would be broken by the mournfulcry of a curlew, disturbed by the splash of the oars, while sometimes aheavy flapping of wings was heard amid the mangroves, and out would startsuddenly three or four white ibises with black necks, giving utterance toa peculiar cry, which faintly resembles that of the male guinea fowl. Allelse was deep unbroken silence. 

By evening we had again reached the entrance of the river, where wepassed the night, during which there was a very heavy dew. 

August 5. 

The lower part of the Adelaide having been already explored, prevented usfrom experiencing that depth of interest which we should otherwise havefelt; still we were destined to enjoy our share of pleasurablesensations, as on the result of our examination depended the importantfact of whether the river was navigable for large vessels. We thereforestarted to settle this momentous question, even before the eastern skywas tinted with orange from the rising of the sun, which in theselatitudes gives no glimmering twilight: day fading and appearinginstantaneously, the rapidity of the change presenting a remarkableeffect. 

EXTENSIVE REACHES. 

Passing a narrow part, formed by two low red cliffy projections, weentered a wide reach that had an extensive flat of 2 and 2 1/2 fathomswater on the south side. The next was similarly circumstanced, the shoalwater of the same depth, being, however, on the west side. Still in boththere was a 3-fathom channel at low-water, and in the reaches above, seven in number, trending in a general South-South-East direction, abouttwice that depth. This imparted to our discoveries the stamp of utility, and as Captain Wickham found it navigable for thirty miles higher upwhere the water is fresh, we may pronounce the Adelaide the deepest riverin Australia. 

MEET A CANOE. 

Proceeding upwards, we met a party of natives about seven miles from themouth, in a very pretty bark canoe, fifteen feet long, and about twodeep. The bark was sewn together with much neatness, and it wasaltogether the most artistic piece of workmanship I had seen among theAborigines of Australia. It was the last of that description we met within this direction, for we did not find canoes in use with the natives tothe westward of Clarence Strait, but only rafts, a fact alluded to in anearlier portion of the work. 

ALARM OF THE NATIVES. 

Two young men only were in the craft, which ran close in under themangroves, through which we could see other natives passing. Byproceeding cautiously and slowly, I got pretty close to them. They wereevidently afraid that if they left it we should take their boat, and thisgave them courage to face the strange white men. Terror, however, wasmarked in their countenances, and one of the two leaped on shore, as weapproached, in a state of great excitement, jumping and flinging his armsabout violently; whilst sometimes he would dip up a handful of water andsquirt it out with great force from the corners of his mouth. The size ofthe boat appeared, as usual, to astonish the lad who remained in thecanoe. He appeared less frightened than the other, and I induced him toaccept a few presents from the end of a long stick. Though they had adeficiency in the upper front teeth, they had not disfigured any otherpart of their bodies. The stature of the two young men was small, perhaps5 feet 7 inches, but those behind the mangroves were much taller. Alligators being so very numerous I was surprised to notice what littledread the natives appeared to have of them, dancing and wading about inthe water near the bank, as if they and the animal had entered into atreaty of amity. 

Their alarm appearing to have worn off, we continued our journey, but byhoisting the sail, the good effect was in a great measurecounterbalanced, as the sight of it called forth a yell from the whole ofthem, which catching the echoes, reverberated from side to side, andresounded in our ears for some time afterwards. Proceeding, we gained theend of the twelfth reach early in the afternoon, when we obtainedobservations for longitude, that being the highest part of the river notsurveyed, and distant about fifteen miles from the mouth; we had alsojust reached the portion frequented by the peculiar whistling wild duck, of which we bagged about twenty, forming an agreeable addition to ourevening and next day meals. After concluding the observations, weexamined the country for some distance; a level tract met the eyewherever it wandered, broken here and there by patches of low trees. Theplains were thinly dotted with a coarse wiry grass. In places nearhollows, where water had collected, the soil, which was a dark kind ofclayey mould, cracked and curled up with the heat. A few shells werefound scattered over the plains, of the kind so common on the north-eastcoast (Helix). 

The tedious uniformity and sameness in the banks of the Adelaide, thusfar, may be illustrated by the fact, that to know the boat's position onreturning, it was necessary to have the sketch of the river constantlybefore our eyes, and to reckon each reach as we passed. 

ALLIGATORS. 

Taking the return tide, we passed the night in the fourth reach; verystringent orders were given to the watch to keep a sharp lookout foralligators, as a great many had been seen during the day, while we knewthat on the previous night a monster of this description had attempted toget into one of the boats. We had fired at several, but with oneexception had done no mischief. To be roused by the noise of the boat'skeel or side grating harshly against the scaly back of an alligator, isfar from being a pleasant occurrence, and on such occasions I generallyfound myself clutching a pistol, always kept near me, for the purpose ofexecuting judgment upon the very first flat head that showed his noseabove the gunwale. Entertaining very vivid recollections of ourexperience on Fitzroy River, on the first start of the boats greatpreparations were made against the mosquitoes; to our agreeable surprise, however, we experienced but slight annoyance from them. The exemption, however, was fully made up by the swarms of flies which infest theAdelaide, and during mealtimes availed themselves of the opportunity ofpopping into our mouths. 

There had been a fresh North-East wind the latter part of the day, whichdying away was succeeded by a calm and cloudless night with a heavy dew. The thermometer was down to 77 degrees, and in the day varied from 87 to92. 

RETURN OF THE BOATS. 

August 6. 

We got on board in the forenoon, when the result of our examination washeard with a satisfaction not easily expressed, but which may be readilyimagined. We felt that we had discovered a river navigable for vessels offour and five hundred tons, for about fifty miles, and into fresh water, a thing hitherto unknown in Australia. We may then with justicecongratulate ourselves on the importance of the discovery of theAdelaide. 

ADAM BAY. 

The bay into which it flows, named after Sir Charles Adam, is six milesdeep and ten broad at the entrance, where there are 9 fathoms. The shoresgradually approach each other, and at the head, where it receives thewaters of the Adelaide, the width is only one mile. 

The mouth of the river is fronted with shoals that extend out five miles;the channel between them is narrow, 3 and 4 fathoms deep, and lies on thewestern side of the bay. A guide for the mouth of it is the east entrancepoint of the river, bearing South 40 degrees East. 

The generally discoloured state of the water prevents the shoals frombeing seen, as well as the coral reefs extending from half to threequarters of a mile off the east side of the bay, where there is excellentanchorage. Sea and land breezes prevailed; the former blowing from theNorth-West which gave it the advantage of being of easy access eitherfrom the westward through Clarence Strait, or from the eastward throughthat of Dundas. The spring tides sometimes rise 18 feet, when the time ofhigh-water is six o'clock. The stream set North-East and North-West fromhalf to one knot, changing to the latter direction two and a half hoursafter high-water. Our observations place Escape Cliffs (too remarkableand conspicuous to be overlooked, and which ships should anchor abreastof) in latitude 12 degrees 8 1/2 minutes South and longitude 0 degrees 15minutes West of Port Essington. The variation of the compass was 2degrees easterly. I was able at this anchorage, by a bearing of a distantpoint, to ascertain the local attraction in the ship, which in noinstance exceeded 1 degree, being the amount we had found at Plymouth, previous to our departure from England. Our deeply interesting researcheson the south side of Clarence Strait, leading to so important adiscovery, were now concluded. 

EXAMINE MELVILLE ISLAND. 

The success which had rewarded our efforts, made us wish to cling to thespot, and it was therefore almost with regret that we found ourselvesleaving to examine the southern shores of Melville Island, where weanchored two miles from the beach, and fifteen within the west entranceof the strait. A quarter of a mile off the sandy flat, extending somedistance from the shore, there was one fathom of water, being a verygradual decrease from six where the ship lay. 

The necessary angles and bearings for the survey, were taken from the topof some cliffs sixty feet high, composed of a red sand and ironstone, anda white kind of marl or pipe clay. The shore trended nearly South-Westand North-East. Six miles in the former direction is an inlet which Mr. Fitzmaurice has visited from the Vernon Isles, and another much smaller, about a third of the intervening distance from where we stood. The highland which was almost level, lay about three miles in our rear, followingthe trend of the shore. Two peaks rising in hollows on it attained anelevation of 260 and 290 feet. There were no rocky points visible atlow-water--a clean sandy beach, which appeared, strange to say, to havebeen washed occasionally by a heavy surf, forming the coastline. Asingular clump of Casuarina was close to the westward of the cliffs, andits dark naked aspect contrasted with the stunted gumtrees and scatteredpalms, sparingly sprinkled over this sterile tract of country. With theexception of a few seabirds, there was nothing living stirring to changethe opinion we have just expressed of this part of Melville Island. Ourvisit, however, was not to be forgotten in an instant, although no verypleasing recollections were connected with it. 

GREEN ANTS. 

Whilst taking a few angles near the cliffs, we suddenly experienced aseries of severe bites or nippings in several parts of our body, andlooking round to discover whence arose this unexpected attack, foundourselves under a tree covered with large green ants. Their bites wereexceedingly painful, and it was only by beating and tearing off ourclothes that we could rid ourselves of these unwelcome visitors. From adistance our appearance must have been sufficiently amusing. One momentsoberly intent upon our duties, and the next jumping like madmen, andhastily stripping off our garments. The name of Ant Cliffs records ourvisit to the south shores of Melville Island. The tide on this side ofthe strait ran nearly two knots an hour, following the direction of theshore; the time of high-water being a quarter of an hour earlier than inAdam Bay. 

August 15. 

Recrossed Clarence Strait to obtain observations for rating thechronometers, and examine the extensive shoal off Cape Hotham. Onanchoring near its edge, a patch with only five feet was discovered closeto the ship; the muddy and restless state of the water, caused by ameeting of the tides, setting out of Van Diemen's Gulf and Adam Bay, renders it necessary to approach Cape Hotham from the northward, withcaution. However, the unusually great depth, for this strait, of twentyfathoms, will give warning of a ship's proximity to this danger, thelimits of which have been given on the occasion of our first visit toCape Hotham. 

WANT OF WATER. 

Our stock of water being now much reduced, it was necessary beforeproceeding further, that we should procure a supply. As it was a matterof no certainty that we should find sufficient on the coast to thewestward, it was at first suggested that we should take the ship up theAdelaide and fill the tanks from alongside. This would have been a grandfeat, having never before been accomplished in any river in Australia. Indeed it was the only one on the whole continent, which could carry up avessel of the Beagle's draught into fresh water. An idea, the realizationof which would so completely crown our exploration with success, naturally gave rise to a great degree of enthusiasm and excitement. Soon, however, more sober thoughts prevailed, when we reflected on the timethis proceeding would consume, on account of the tortuous* course of theriver: time which we could, with our scanty stock of provisions, illspare. At Port Essington it was possible we should be able to get asupply of both, as a ship might have arrived during our absence. Moreoverit was highly important, that we should make known without delay, thediscovery of a river of such magnitude as the Adelaide, distant onlyseventy miles from the settlement. 

(*Footnote. Nothing shows the flat nature of a country more than thetortuous course of a stream passing through it. It is a want of change inthe level, which causes a river to twist and wind about in search, as itwere, of the weakest spot for its exit. )

RETURN TOWARDS PORT ESSINGTON. 

It was then finally resolved that we should return to Port Essington, andin the forenoon of the 17th, the Beagle was drifting along the westernshore of Dundas Strait, out of Van Diemen's Gulf. The day happening, veryremarkably for the locality at this season, to be calm throughout, theanchor was dropped at sunset in 22 fathoms; Cape Fleming the North-Eastpoint of Melville Island, bearing North-West 1/2 West eight miles. A deepsandy bay bore South-West five miles, which promised good anchorage. Theappearance of the north-east part of Melville Island was still verytriste, presenting to the eye nothing save patches of mangroves, behindwhich rose a range of ill-defined hills, 300 feet in elevation. 

(*Footnote. The tide out of Van Diemen's Gulf takes a North-Westdirection, until coming in contact with Cape Keith, it branches off alongthe east and south side of Melville Island. )

We anchored to prevent being taken back through Dundas Strait by thereturn tide, which from 5 P. M. , to midnight, set South-East by South fromtwo to three knots an hour. High-water at Popham Bay on the east side ofthe Strait being at a quarter past eleven, we may conclude the North-Weststream began at this anchorage three quarters of an hour afterhigh-water. Weighing as soon as the tide made out of the strait, althoughthere was still no wind, we were rather surprised at daylight to find howlittle the ship had drifted to the North-North-West. The only reason Ican give in explanation is that the ebb or North-West stream out of thegulf joins with, and is thrown out of its course by the easterly or ebbstream setting past Cape Fleming. 

ARRIVAL AT THE PORT. 

A breeze springing up late in the morning, we beat along the north sideof the Cobourg Peninsula, entering Port Essington at dusk. In workinground Vashon Head, we found the water shoal very rapidly to 12, 9, and 7fathoms on approaching it; on the bearing South 30 degrees West. Thishead is fronted by a reef of some extent, which similar to the other atthe entrance of Port Essington, cannot be distinguished, owing to themuddy colour of the water; it is therefore necessary that the lead shouldbe kept constantly going when in its vicinity. When daylight broke, wefound no fresh arrival to greet our anxious gaze, the Britomart beingstill the only guardian of the port. Her solitary aspect at oncedestroyed our hopes of supplies, and on reaching the settlement our fearsproved to have too much foundation. Hope, however, is the last feelingwhich leaves the human breast, and in this instance did not desert us; asthere was still a chance of a vessel arriving, while we were engaged inwatering the ship. 

VICTORIA THEATRE. 

The news of our discovery of the Adelaide was hailed with infinitesatisfaction, and the numerous speculations and ideas on the subjectwhich were at once afloat, afforded an agreeable variety to the monotonyof existence in the settlement, where however at the moment of ourarrival an unusual degree of excitement prevailed through the activity ofCaptain Stanley. 

THEATRICAL AMUSEMENTS. 

Ever anxious to provide for the amusement of others, he had been for sometime engaged in getting up a play, which was now nearly ready to beperformed. Its name I regret to have forgotten; it was however nothingvery deep, and was selected from a volume that had already performed avoyage to the North Pole. This adventurous playbook, which had certainlydone its duty, was originally picked up by its owner on Tower-hill. Thescenery was painted by Captain Stanley with earths of the country, whoalso was stage manager and general planner of the whole. The wives ofsome of the garrison supplied female costumes, while a large workshop wasconverted into a theatre. At length, after the difficulties usuallyattendant on private theatricals, everything was in readiness for thefirst performance of the drama in Northern Australia. Tickets wereissued, of which I have one before me, a small piece of card containingthe words "Victoria Theatre, Port Essington, August 24th, 1839. " In afteryears this will be looked upon as a curious relic in connection with thehistory of this part of the continent. As if to cause the firstperformance of a play at Victoria, to take place under smiling auspices, such as the occasion properly called for, H. M. S. Pelorus arrived withsupplies and letters from Sydney. The previous growing dearth ofprovisions had rendered it somewhat difficult to secure a very happilydisposed audience, an empty stomach being apt to provoke fault finding:but the arrival of a ship on the very play day caused a crowded anddelighted attendance. Everything went off smoothly, and with hearty pealsof laughter. All the characters being supported by men, the femalepersonages of the drama presented a most grotesque appearance; moreoverthe act drop being an old ensign, the ladies could be seen through it, regaling themselves, during these intervals, with a pipe. The wholeaffair gave infinite satisfaction, while ours was greatly enhanced, andour minds prepared for any duty, by the timely arrival of supplies andletters, of both of which we fortunately received our share. 

Our departure from Port Essington, was not therefore hurried; and I hadsome slight opportunity of adding to my knowledge, with regard to thecapabilities of the place, which were found to grow upon acquaintance. The fact of its being well fitted for the growth of cotton was inparticular a great additional recommendation. The sallow appearance ofthe settlers clearly demonstrated the temperature to be high, thoughapparently there was no diminution in physical strength. It shouldhowever be remembered that up to this time they had not had the samenourishment as those who appeared amongst them as transient visitors, with ruddy faces. The warmth of the climate in itself conduces tointemperance, which to Europeans is ever fatal. 

The Pelorus brought orders for the Britomart to proceed to Sydney. 

PASSAGE THROUGH TORRES STRAIT. 

Captain Stanley was anxious--with the westerly monsoon--to have attemptedthe passage through Torres Strait, instead of going round the west coast, as such a course might have led to some discoveries in thatneighbourhood; a result always in such a service of the utmostimportance. 

It is however to be regretted that the senior officer did not approve ofthis plan, as the passage has only once been made from the westward byCaptain Lihou, R. N. , who having experienced some difficulties reportedunfavourably of it. The importance of an intimate acquaintance with thisroute will be better appreciated, when we reflect that ultimately throughthis passage will the great traffic be carried on between our East Indianand Australian possessions. 

During our visit to Port Essington, some of the changes among ourofficers, mentioned in the beginning of the work, took place. Mr. Forsythjoined us from the Pelorus, and, from his knowledge of surveying, was avaluable addition to our party. 

SKETCH OF VICTORIA. 

Having said so much in relation to Port Essington on our former visit, and wishing to create among our readers an interest in the locality, wegive a slight sketch of the appearance of the settlement from theanchorage, which will be more effective than our most elaboratedescription of it. 

EVIL EXAMPLE OF CONVICTS. 

Before taking leave of this new colony, we must at once express a hopethat it will not be made a Penal settlement; not that we doubt thewonderful degree in which the convict system has hastened the prosperityof our possessions on the south-eastern part of the continent; but fromthe proximity of northern Australia to the islands in the Arafurasea--the waters separating them being often navigable for boats--thenatives would be contaminated and vitiated, their women corrupted, andthe badly disposed among the islanders rendered worse; and instead of ouradvent bringing with it the light of the gospel, and the real andsubstantial blessings of civilization, we should enjoy the unenviableprivilege of still further degenerating the savage. The evil thus causedin New Zealand has been incalculable; to the bad example of convicts weowe much of the ills which have there arisen; the fine fearless bearingof the wild man, has been partially exchanged for the low cunning, acquired from the runaway felon; who reckless of his own life can have noregard for that of others. The worst crimes of the dregs of a civilizedpopulation have been introduced; and many of those wretched beings, whomight otherwise have been reclaimed from the rude vices of savage life, have, through the white man's instrumentality, perished in sin. *

(*Footnote. I knew an instance of a convict, who when dying actuallypicked a man's pocket. The ruling passion, strong in death, was herepainfully exemplified. J. L. S. )

The number of Malay proas that visit this part of the continent, wouldalso furnish facilities for the escape of convicts from the neighbourhoodof Port Essington. 

We shall now fulfil our promise to the reader, of laying before himCaptain Stanley's interesting cruise to the islands we have just alludedto, which will occupy the remaining portion of the present volume. 

CHAPTER 1. 12. 

Leave Port Essington. Reach Timor Laut. Meet Proas. Chief Lomba. Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton. Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island. Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors. Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and massacre of the Crew. Appearance of the shores of Timor Laut. Description of the Inhabitants. Dress. Leprosy. Canoes. Village of Oliliet. Curious Houses. Remarkable Ornaments. Visit the Oran Kaya. Burial Islet. Supplies obtained. Gunpowder in request as Barter. Proceed to the Arru Islands. Dobbo Harbour. Trade. Present to Chief. Birds of Paradise. Chinaming Junks' bottoms. Character of Natives. Some of them profess Christianity. Visit the Ki Islands. Village of Ki Illi. How protected. Place of Worship. Pottery. Timber. Boat-building. Cultivation of the eastern Ki. No anchorage off it. Visit Ki Doulan. Antique Appearance of. Luxuriant Vegetation. Employment of Natives. Defences of the place. Carvings on gateway. Civility of Chief. His Dress. Population of the Ki Group. Their Religion. Trade. Place of Interment. Agility of Australian Native. Supplies. Anchorage off Ki Doulan. Island of Vordate. Visit from Chief. Excitement of Natives. Their Arms and Ornaments. Carved Horns on Houses. Alarm of the Oran Kaya. Punishment of the Natives of Laarat by the Dutch. Revisit Oliliet. Discover that Mr. Watson had rescued the European Boy. Return to Port Essington. Mr. Watson's Proceedings at Timor Laut. 

In pursuance of orders from Sir G. Bremer, C. B. We sailed from PortEssington on the 18th March, 1839, having on board, Captain Kuper (then1st Lieutenant of H. M. S. Alligator) and one of the Australian natives, who was induced to accompany us, partly by his own curiosity, and partlyby liberal promises and plenty to eat. He was known at the settlement bythe name of Jack White, and from his great good humour and intelligence, was a favourite with everyone. I hoped by keeping him on board for sometime, away from his tribe, to wean him in some degree from his savagehabits; and that by being able to communicate with him with greaterfacility, we might learn more of the manners and customs of hiscountrymen, than we had yet been able to do; in addition to which weanticipated no small amusement from witnessing his astonishment at seeingcountries and people so different from his own. 

Light airs prevented our clearing the harbour till the morning of the19th, and at 3 P. M. On the 20th, we made the land of Timor Laut; but fromour ignorance of the coast, we were obliged to keep under easy sailduring the night, which was squally with heavy rain. 

TIMOR LAUT PROAS. 

At daylight on the 21st, we made all sail to the northward, and about 10, observed two large proas, with Dutch colours flying, standing out fromthe land under sail; they were full of men, and for some time appeared tobe in great doubt, whether they should come near us or not, as theyshortened sail and consulted together several times; at last, however, they came under our stern, which was the only way in which they couldapproach, as their long outriggers, projecting 10 or 12 feet on each sideof their narrow canoes, prevented them from coming close alongside. 

As soon as they got hold of the rope we gave them, they hauled close up, and a little thin shrivelled old man came scrambling over the taffrail:he was dressed in a long black serge coat, check shirt, and blacktrousers, and as soon as he had regained his breath, after the violentexertions he had made, presented me with a neat little basket containingsome papers which he seemed very anxious I should examine. I took themup, rather to please him, than with any expectation of being able tounderstand them, but to my surprise and great interest, found carefullyrolled up in several envelopes, two pieces of lead pencil, part of theleaf of a Norie's Navigation Tables, and some scraps of paper, on which, written in pencil, was a rough journal of the proceedings of the men wholeft the ill-fated Charles Eaton (soon after she was wrecked in TorresStrait) in one of her cutters, in which they reached this island, andafter remaining for thirteen months got to Amboyna in a trading proa, andthence to Batavia, where they gave the following account of theirmisfortunes to the Resident, Mr. D. W. Pietermaat. 

WRECK OF THE CHARLES EATON. 

The Charles Eaton sailed from Sydney on the 26th July, 1834, and on the15th of August, about 10 o'clock in the forenoon, during a fresh fullsail breeze, the vessel struck on a reef called the Detached Reef, situated at the entrance of Torres Strait. 

PROCEEDINGS OF THE CREW. 

During the preceding night the Captain, as a measure of prudence, hadordered the first reef to be taken in the topsails, in order not to enterthe passage before daylight. 

The ship struck on the reef so violently, that both keel and rudder wereinstantly knocked off and carried away, and the Captain declared thevessel to be totally lost; at the same time giving orders to get theboats ready and furnished with provisions, in order to endeavour to reachthe island of Timor. 

At the time the vessel was wrecked, she had four boats, the longboat, twocutters, and a dinghy or small jolly boat. In the largest cutter, W. Grindall, Laurent Constantine, and George Pigot, left the wreck, andRichard Quin, and James Wright, joined them the next morning by swimmingacross a bar or reef at the risk of their lives. 

The other boats were knocked to pieces and lost, by the vessel fallingover on her side, and they were unable to save any more of the passengersor crew, as it was impossible to pull the boat up against the strongcurrent; and none of them would venture amidst the heavy breakers toreach the boat by swimming. They were unable to state what became of theCaptain, passengers, and rest of the crew; but at the time Richard Quinand James Wright left the wreck, all the passengers and crew were aliveon the forecastle of the vessel, with the exception of one sailor namedJames Price, who was drowned by the smallest of the cutters swamping atthe time she was lowered. 

The passengers on board at the time the vessel was wrecked, were CaptainD'Oyly of the Bengal Artillery, his wife, and two sons, George andWilliam; an English gentleman named Armstrong; and a Bengalese nativeservant. 

NAMES OF THE CREW. 

The ship's crew consisted of twenty-four persons: J. G. Moore, master; J. Clare, chief mate; W. Mayer, second mate; G. Pigott, third mate; J. Grant, surgeon; L. Constantine, carpenter; W. Montgomery, steward; W. Perry, J. P. Ching, midshipmen; R. Quin, A. Quail, W. Moore, C. Robinson, J. Caen, W. Hill, J. Berry, R. Lounce, W. Jeffrey, J. Wright, W. Gumble, J. Miller, and W. Williams, seamen; J. Ireland and J. Sexton, boys. 

The five seamen in the cutter, not seeing any possibility of saving moreof the ship's company, and the next morning not perceiving a singleperson on the wreck, concluded that these unhappy persons had been washedoff by the increasing swell of the sea during the night. On Sundaymorning, August 17th, they left the wreck, and steered as westerly acourse as possible by the sun and stars--they had no compass--in order toreach the Dutch settlement of Coupang in the island of Timor. The wholeof their provisions consisted of 30 pounds of bread, one ham, and a kegcontaining about four gallons of water; which had been placed in the boatbefore she was lowered. 

THE CUTTER REACHES TIMOR LAUT. 

After driving about for fifteen days on the ocean, they descried landwhich they took to be Timor; they went on shore and procured some waterand coconuts; but afterwards pursuing their course along the coast, theywere attacked by a number of native proas, and being warn out withfatigue, and without any arms to defend themselves, they were forced tosurrender. The natives upset the boat, and stripped them of all theirclothes, after which they were brought on shore, where the natives atfirst seemed inclined to kill them, but through the intercession of twochiefs, named Pabok and Lomba, their lives were spared. 

They afterwards learnt, that they were at the native village of Oliliet, in the island of Timor Laut; part of their clothes were given back tothem, and they were well treated, without being compelled by the nativesto perform any labour; their sustenance consisted of Indian corn, yams, alittle rice and some fish, but the quantities given them were only justsufficient to keep them alive. 

During their abode in this island, they learnt that in one of theneighbouring settlements called Laouran, at that period at war with theone in which they lived, there was another European, formerly belongingto an English brig, that had been wrecked seven years ago, and of whosecrew he, and a boy since dead, had alone been spared by their savagecaptors. 

After remaining more than thirteen months at Oliliet, a trading proaarrived from Amboyna, in which they received permission to depart, promising to return soon in an English ship, with arms and ammunition toassist the chiefs in defeating their enemies. In this proa, after apassage of five days, they arrived at Amboyna, on the 7th of October, 1835. 

IRELAND'S ACCOUNT OF THE FATE OF THE CREW. 

Of the melancholy fate of those who remained on the wreck, the boyIreland gave the following account, which was published at Sydney byCaptain P. P. King, R. N. Ireland and the younger D'Oyly, were rescued fromthe savages by Captain C. M. Lewis, of the Colonial schooner, Isabella, who was sent to look for them in consequence of Captain Carr of the shipMangles* having reported that he had seen two white persons among thenatives of Murray's Island, but had been unable to induce the natives togive them up. 

(*Footnote. I afterwards met Captain Carr in the Mangles; he expressedgreat regret that so much blame should have been attached to him for notbringing away the children. His account differed very much from youngIreland's, and it is but justice to him to state that it was owing to hisreport that the vessels were sent in search of Ireland and young D'Oyly. J. L. S. )

The Charles Eaton left Sydney on the 29th of July, 1834, bound to Canton, by way of Torres Strait; and experienced a series of fine weather andfavourable winds until she approached the Barrier Reef, when the weatherbecame thick and rainy. 

The master was provided with Captain Ashmore's chart, guided by which heboldly steered for the reefs. Unfortunately, however, for him the weatherwas so clouded on approaching the Barriers, that he could obtain noobservation for the latitude, and yet it would appear that the ship wasin a very favourable position. 

About ten o'clock in the morning the reefs were suddenly perceived rightahead, upon which the ship was hove up in the wind and both anchors letgo, and the cables paid out to the end; but as the depth was probablyunfathomable they had no effect, for she drifted on the reef and fellover on her beam ends. The chief mate then cut her masts away, but thebottom was soon bilged, and everything destroyed by the water, whichbroke over the decks, and the ship became a perfect wreck. Happily theupper part of the vessel kept together, on which the crew and passengerscollected. Soon after she struck, a vessel was observed three or fourmiles to windward, high and dry upon the reefs, with her masts standing, and royal yards across, and sails set, in which position she must havebeen left by her crew. *

(*Footnote. The Flora, Sheriff, master. )

During the confusion that existed, one of the quarter-boats was lowered, but immediately swamped, by which one man, named Price, was drowned. Soonafterwards, three of the crew, namely G. Pigott, the third mate; L. Constantine, the carpenter; and W. Gumble, one of the seamen, put sails, provisions, and water, and arms, and all the carpenter's tools, into theother quarter-boat, and lowered her down; and kept near the wreck duringthe day and following night. The next day R. Quin and J. Wright, twoseamen, joined them, after which they refused to take any more; althoughsix of the crew made their way over the reef the next morning, and wishedto be taken on board. The boat, however, bore away, and was seen no more. 

The master then, assisted by those who remained, attempted to make araft, which was not completed before the expiration of seven days. Duringthis interval they had managed to distil the contents of a cask and somebottles of water from the sea, by the aid of the ship's coppers, and aleaden pipe from the quarter gallery cistern, the whole of which theyplaced on the raft with a basket containing beer, and a cask of pork. Whilst they were on the wreck they were upon a daily allowance of twowine glasses of distilled water, and a few pieces of damaged biscuit. 

As soon as the raft was completed, they got upon it, but finding that itwas not buoyant enough to hold them, they threw over the water the porkand beer. Still it did not support their weight, so the greater numberreturned on board; leaving Mr. Moore the master, Mr. Grant the surgeon, Captain and Mrs. D'Oyly, and their two children, their nurse, a native ofIndia, and Mr. Armstrong, passengers; also two seamen, named Lounce andBerry, who determined to remain upon it all night. In the morning, however, it was found that the rope by which the raft had been made fastto the stern of the wreck had been cut, and nothing was seen of theircompanions. It is probable that the uncomfortable situation in which theyfound themselves, up to their waists in water, and the sea constantlybreaching over them, induced the master to cut the rope and trust toProvidence to guide himself and the passengers to some place of safety. 

Those that remained then made another raft of the vessel's topmastslashed together with coir rope, and made a sail out of some cloth whichformed a part of her cargo. It took seven days before it was completed, when they launched off and bid adieu to the ill-fated vessel, which wasprobably soon broken up, for at high-water the sea breached over her. 

The vessel that was seen with her masts standing, was too far to windwardfor them to reach, for even the boat could not make way against the windand current. Upon casting off, they set their sail and steered before thewind, but the raft was so heavy and deep that very little progress wasmade. She drifted rather than sailed, and probably did not go more than amile or one mile and a half an hour. After some time they came to a reefupon which they remained for the night, and the next morning proceededbefore the wind, but saw no more reefs. 

After being two days and nights upon the raft, up to their waists inwater, and partaken of very little food, they passed an island, and thensaw several more ahead. Soon afterwards a canoe was perceived paddlingtowards them, containing ten or twelve Indians, who as they approachedstood up and extended their arms to show they had no weapons and wereinclined to be friendly. On reaching the raft the Indians got upon it, and conducted themselves very peaceably; and after a short time proposedthat they should leave the raft and go into the canoe, which they atfirst hesitated to do, until Thomas Ching, a midshipman, said he wouldgo, as he should then have a better chance of getting to England, uponwhich they all consented, and embarked in the canoe. Before they left, the Indians searched the raft very narrowly for iron implements, but onlyfound a few hoops which they collected and took with them. They left theraft about four o'clock in the afternoon, and in less than an hour werelanded on an island which they subsequently found was called Boydan, andwhich is probably that on the chart called Number 1, to the eastward ofHannibal Island. *

(*Footnote. On their way to it the canoe passed, first, three islands onthe right (northward) and one on the left (southward). The mainland wasalso distinguished from Boydan Island, and appeared to be about twelve orfourteen miles off, which agrees very well with the island it is supposedto be. )

Upon disembarking, the natives accompanied them round the island insearch of food and water, but they were so exhausted by fatigue andhunger, that they could scarcely crawl. Upon their return to the placewhere they landed, they threw themselves on the ground in despair; as itwas evident from the ferocious bearing and conduct of the savages, whostood around their party grinning and laughing in the most hideousmanner, that they were exulting in the anticipation of their murderousintentions. In this dreadful state of suspense, Mr. Clare, the firstofficer, addressing his companions, recommended them to be resigned totheir fate; and read to them, in a most impressive manner, severalprayers from a book which he had brought with him from the wreck; afterwhich, commending themselves to the protection of the Almighty, they laiddown, and worn out by severe exhaustion, were soon asleep; but it was tothem the sleep of death; for no sooner had they composed themselves than, as Ireland describes, he was roused by a shout and noise, and uponlooking up saw the Indians murdering his companions by dashing theirbrains out with clubs. The first that was killed was poor Ching, andafter him his companion Perry, and then Mr. Mayer, the second officer:after which the confusion became so great, that Ireland could notdistinguish what passed. The last however, that met his fate was Mr. Clare, who in the attempt to make his escape to the canoe, was overtakenby his pursuers, and immediately despatched by a blow on the head. 

Ireland and another boy named Sexton, were now left awaiting their fate:the former, the narrator of this melancholy tale, thus describes hisdeliverance:

An Indian came to me with a carving knife to cut my throat, but as he wasabout to do it, having seized hold of me, I grasped the blade of theknife in my right hand and held it fast, struggling for my life. TheIndian then threw me down, and placing his knee on my breast tried towrench the knife out of my hand, but I still retained it, although one ofmy fingers was cut through to the bone. At last I succeeded in gettinguppermost, when I let him go and ran into the sea, and swam out; butbeing much exhausted, and the only chance of my life was to return to theshore, I landed again fully expecting to be knocked on the head. The sameIndian then came up with an infuriated gesture, and shot me in the rightbreast with an arrow; and then in a most unaccountable manner suddenlybecame quite calm, and led or dragged me to a little distance, andoffered me some fish and water, which I was unable to partake of. 

Whilst struggling with the Indian, I observed Sexton, who was held byanother, bite a piece of his arm out, but after that knew nothing of him, until I found his life had been spared in a manner similar to my own. *

(*Footnote. Upon interrogating Ireland to obtain some explanation of thereason their lives were spared, he says, that he has frequently seen theIndians recover themselves in a moment from a violent paroxysm of fury;and he attributes their safety to a circumstance of this nature. P. P. K. )

At a short distance off, making the most hideous yells, the other savageswere dancing round a large fire, before which were placed in a row theheads of their victims; whilst their decapitated bodies were washing inthe surf on the beach, from which they soon disappeared, having beenprobably washed away by the tide. Sexton and I were then placed in chargeof two natives, who covered us with the sail of the canoe, a sort of mat, but paid no attention to my wound, which had been bleeding profusely. 

The next day the Indians collected all the heads; and, embarking, removedto another island where the women lived, which they called Pullan. Onlanding there, Ireland saw two of Captain D'Oyly's children, and theship's dog, called Portland; the elder (George) D'Oyly, told him that thefirst raft had landed on the island, and that all the passengers, excepting himself and his brother, had been instantly murdered; that hismother was killed by a blow with a club, and that his little brother wasin her arms at the time, but was saved by one of the women, whoafterwards took care of him. The child was seen by Ireland, when theylanded, in the woman's arms, crying very much. He also saw some pieces ofthe ship's cabin doors, attached as ornaments to the heads of theircanoes, which they appeared to prize very much, and other relics, amongwhich were the heads of the passengers and crew, of the first raft; thoseof Mrs. D'Oyly and Captain Moore being plainly distinguishable; theformer by the hair, the latter by the features. The heads were suspendedby a rope to a pole that was stuck up near the huts of the women; roundwhich they danced every night and morning, accompanying their infuriatedgestures with the most horrid yells. 

The number of Indians collected amounted to about sixty; they were merelyresiding on the island during the fishing season; for their home, as itafterwards turned out; was at a considerable distance off. Theirprincipal subsistence was turtle and small fish, which they caught withhook and line, and shellfish which abound on the reefs. The island alsoproduces a small fruit like a plum with a stone in it, probably a speciesof Eugenia. The fish were broiled over the ashes of a fire, or boiled inthe basin of a large volute (Voluta ethiopica) which being rather ascarce shell is of great value to them. 

The island of Pullan is covered with low trees and underwood, and thesoil is sandy. In the centre of it is a spring, which supplied the wholeparty with sufficient water for their consumption; and, as Ireland says, they used a great deal, it must at least have yielded fifteen or twentygallons a day, for the hole was always full. Upon a voyage they carrytheir water in bamboo joints, and coconut shells, as do the Malays. 

After remaining here two months, the Indians separated. One party takingIreland and the infant D'Oyly with them, embarked in a canoe, and afterhalf a day's sail reached another islet to the northward, where theyremained a day and a night, on a sandy beach; and the next morningproceeded and reached another island similar to Pullan, low and bushy, where they remained a fortnight. They then proceeded to the northward, calling on their way at different islands, and remaining as long as theysupplied food, until they reached one, * where they remained a month, andthen they went on a visit to Darnley's Island, which they called Aroob, where for the first time, Ireland says, he met with kind treatment. 

(*Footnote. Probably one of the group of the northward of Halfway Island, near Aureed, named by Mr. Lewis, Sir Richard Bourke's Group. )

After a fortnight they again embarked and returned by the way they came, to an island they called Sir-reb, * situated near Aureed, where theirvoyage ended, and they remained until purchased by Duppar, the MurrayIslander; who, it appears, upon hearing that there were two white boys incaptivity, at Aureed, embarked in a canoe with his wife Pamoy, and wentfor the express purpose of obtaining them, taking for the purpose ofbarter some fruit. The price of their ransom was a branch of bananas, foreach. They returned by way of Darnley's Island, where they stopped a fewdays, and then reached Murray's Island, where they remained ever since, and were most kindly treated. Duppar gave little D'Oyly to a native namedOby to take care of; a charge of which he faithfully acquitted himself, and both Oby and his adopted child soon became very fond of each other;for as the child was a mere infant, he soon forgot his mother, andnaturally attached himself to his nurse. When at Aureed the Indians hadnamed Ireland, Wak; and little D'Oyly, they called Uass; names which theyretained at Murray's Island, and by which they are doubtless now knownall over the archipelago. 

(*Footnote. Sir-reb, according to Ireland's information is MarsdenIsland. P. P. K. )

Ireland lived in the same hut with Duppar and his family; his employmentwas to cultivate a plantation of yams, and during the season to assist intaking turtle and shellfish. On one occasion he accompanied them on anexcursion towards New Guinea, where they went for the purpose of barterand trade; which they frequently did, to obtain bows and arrows, canoesand feathers, for which they give in return shells;* and which from theirscarcity, the New Guinea people prize very much, but as Duppar wasfearful that the New Guinea people would steal or murder him, he was leftat Darnley's Island, in charge of Agge, an Indian, until their return. Duppar and his friends, however, were not long away; for having stoppedat an island, Jarmuth (Campbell's Island) to pass the night, one of theislanders attempted to take away by force from one of the visitors, hismoco moco (a sort of bandage worn round the calves of the legs, made ofthe bark of bamboo) upon which a quarrel ensued, in which the MurrayIslanders used their bows and arrows, and wounded several, one being shotthrough the body. The Jarmuth people then retreated to their huts, andthe others embarked; but instead of going to New Guinea, returned toDarnley's Island, where in a few days they received a message fromJarmuth, offering peace; which, however, they would not accept; nor didthey afterwards make friends. 

(*Footnote. Ireland describes the shell to be a cone, and recognized itamong the plates in the Encyclopedie Methodique, as the Conusmillepunctatus. )

Ireland's account of the visit of the Mangles, is so different from whatCaptain Carr describes, that the discrepancy must be received with muchcaution. 

He states that Captain Carr's object seemed to be entirely that oftrading for tortoise-shell; he was alongside the Mangles, and not at aconsiderable distance off; he was so near as to ask one of the people onthe poop to throw him a rope, to get fast to the vessel, which was done, but owing to the sea running high he was obliged to let it go; upon whichhe asked for a boat to be lowered for him to get on board, which was alsodone, and he should have made his escape, had not one stood up in the bowwith a naked cutlass and the others flourished their weapons over theirheads; which frightened the Indians so much that they pulled away onshore, followed by the boat for a little distance, and there concealedhim. Ireland declares, that he did not say, that the natives would notgive him up. 

When under the Mangles' stern one of the crew offered him some tobaccowhich he declined. Had Captain Carr offered an axe for him, he would havebeen given up immediately as well as little D'Oyly, who was on the beach, in the arms of one of the natives. The natives knew that Ireland wasanxious to be taken away, and were averse to his going off to the vessel, saying, "You shall not go there to be killed;" but as he hoped to makehis escape he persisted, and the result was a bitter disappointment tohim. 

Such is the succinct narrative, of which old Lomba offered me the firstrude materials. 

THE CHIEF LOMBA. 

As soon as I had read the papers contained in the basket, I endeavoured, by the help of the Malay dictionary, to gain some more information fromthe old man, and after some time succeeded in making out that he was thechief Lomba, mentioned by the seamen in their narrative; which wasconfirmed by finding that the shirt he wore was marked with the name ofthe unfortunate midshipman, J. P. Ching, who so early fell a victim to themurderous savages on the reef. From our ignorance of the language I wasunable to gain any information of the European boy, said to be still onthe island. Lomba pointed out the village he came from, prettily situatedon the crest of a well-wooded hill, and gave me to understand that Ishould there find the other chief, Pabok, who was too old and infirm tocome down. Upon which I determined to remain for the night, in order tovisit the village, in hopes of getting some more information, and also tomake Pabok a present, which he well deserved for his good services. 

The gig was accordingly sent inshore to sound, and soon made the signalof having found an anchorage, upon which we stood in, greatly to thedelight of the natives, who, as they were not armed, were allowed to comeon board, where they behaved very well. Some went aloft with greatactivity to assist in furling sails, and two came aft to the wheel, theuse of which they seemed to understand perfectly. 

At one o'clock we anchored in 11 fathoms sand and coral, three quartersof a mile from the shore; and as soon as the ship was secured, a party ofus landed, accompanied by the old chief, and followed by most of thenatives in their canoes. 

APPEARANCE OF THE SHORES. 

On landing, the contrast to the Australian shores we had so recentlysailed from, was very striking. We left a land covered with themonotonous interminable forest of the eucalyptus or gumtree, which, fromthe peculiar structure of its leaf, affords but little shelter from thetropical sun. Shores fringed with impenetrable mangroves; a soilproducing scarcely any indigenous vegetable, either in the shape of rootor fruit fit for food. The natives black, naked, lowest in the scale ofcivilized life; their dwellings, if such they can be called, formed byspreading the bark rudely torn from the tree, over a few twigs placed inthe ground, under which they creep for shelter; dependent almost entirelyon the success of the chase for their daily food, not having arrived atthe first and simplest form of cultivation, and in like manner destituteof all trace of religion, except the faint symptom of belief in an evilspirit. 

We landed on a beach, along which a luxuriant grove of coconut treesextended for more than a mile, under the shade of which were sheds neatlyconstructed of bamboo and thatched with palm leaves, for the reception oftheir canoes. To our right a hill rose to a height of about 400 feet, covered with brilliant and varied vegetation so luxuriant as entirely toconceal the village built on its summit. The natives who thronged thebeach were of a light tawny colour, mostly fine, athletic men, with anintelligent expression of countenance. 

DRESS OF THE NATIVES. 

Their dress consisted of a cloth round the waist reaching to the knee, which in some instances was neatly ornamented with small white shells;their arms and ankles were loaded with rings formed of ebony, ivory, andcoloured glass, some of the former bore evident marks of having beenturned in a lathe. The lobes of their ears were perforated with largeholes, from which enormous earrings of ivory and ebony, in the shape ofpadlocks, were suspended, sometimes as many as three from one ear. A fewof the natives had gold earrings of considerable size but rudeworkmanship. The boys and younger men had their hair cut short, and theirheads smeared over with a preparation of lime, which bleaches thenaturally black hair to a flaxen colour; as soon as this is effected, thehair is allowed to grow to a considerable length, and in due timepresents a piebald appearance, the ends retaining the flaxen colour whilethe roots are black. When grown to a sufficient length it is woundgracefully round the head and fastened by a comb of sandalwood ortortoise-shell; some specimens of which were very large, and of suchsuperior manufacture as to indicate an intercourse with much morecivilized nations. 

LEPROSY. 

The natives appeared to be healthy with the exception of a sort ofleprosy, from which many of them were suffering. It gave them a mostdisgusting appearance, but did not appear to cause any inconvenience, norwere they avoided by the rest of their companions, as if the disease hadbeen contagious. On our first landing, very few of the natives had anyarms, but they afterwards brought down some bows and arrows, some ofwhich were four or five feet long, neatly headed with iron. We also saw afew iron-headed spears, a few cresses, and some hatchets of a very rudeconstruction. 

CANOES. 

Their canoes, about thirty of which were hauled upon the beach, were fromtwenty-five to thirty feet long, and very narrow, with outriggersprojecting ten or twelve feet from each side, and supporting a piece ofbuoyant wood to give stability. They carried one large mat-sail, but didnot appear to sail fast. 

As soon as we had satisfied our curiosity on the beach, old Lomba led theway to the village on the crest of the hill. The ascent commenced closeto the landing place by a flight of steps rudely formed by logs of woodlaid across a narrow path cut in the hillside, which brought us to withinforty or fifty feet of the summit. After which we had to climb twoladders, made of hard red wood richly carved, placed almostperpendicularly against the cliff. In a recess under the upper step wenoticed four small idols that bore a strong resemblance to those of theSouth Sea islanders. 

VILLAGE OF OLILIET. 

After reaching the top of the ladder we passed through a gateway, evidently intended for defence, and then found ourselves in the villageof Oliliet, built on a level space of considerable extent, accessibleonly from seaward by the path we had ascended, which the removal of theladders would render impracticable, and on the land side protected by awall, beyond which the jungle appeared to be very dense. 

The houses, all raised on piles six or eight feet above the ground, couldonly be entered by means of a ladder leading through a trapdoor in thefloor. The roofs neatly thatched with palm leaves, and formed with a verysteep pitch projected considerably beyond the low side-walls, andsurmounted at the gables by large wooden horns, * richly carved, fromwhich long strings of shells hung down to the ground, giving the villagea most picturesque appearance. 

(*Footnote. See the view annexed. )

The houses were arranged with considerable regularity, so as to form onewide street of considerable extent, from which narrow alleys branched oneach side. 

Our conductor led us to the Oran Kaya, whom we found seated in front of asmall house in the widest part of the street, opposite to which there wasa circular space marked out by a row of stones placed on the ground, andwhich appeared to be set aside for religious purposes, as they seemedunwilling we should set foot within it. Here the natives soon afterwardsassembled in considerable numbers, and were for some time engaged inserious discussion. 

ORAN KAYA AND PABOK. 

The Oran Kaya, who was an elderly man, received us very civilly, andinvited us to sit down beside him. Soon afterwards Pabok came up. He wasvery old, had lost the sight of one eye, and wore an old straw hat ofEuropean manufacture, decorated with stripes of red and blue cloth sewnround it. I tried in vain to get more information from him about theEuropean boy; and on pressing him to come down to the boat to receive apresent, he made signs he was too old to do so. 

After remaining a short time in the village, during which one of ourparty caught a transient glimpse of some of the women, we returned to thebeach; where we found that the natives had brought a plentiful supply ofcoconuts, and they promised to bring some other supplies off in themorning. 

DEPARTURE FROM OLILIET. 

At sunset the natives all went quietly away, and we returned on board, passing on our way some small rocky islands which appeared to be used asburial places, and emitted an intolerable stench; the bodies were placedin rude wooden boxes, open at the top and quite exposed to the air, fromone small rock not large enough to hold a body, there was a long bambooerected, from which a human hand, blackened by exposure to the sun, wassuspended. 

On the 22nd, soon after daylight, the natives came off, bringing withthem Indian corn and coconuts, in such quantities that they sold thelatter for a couple of pins each. They also brought yams, bananas, fowls, chilies, etc. But they did not seem inclined to part with them foranything we could offer, except gunpowder, which I would not allow to begiven as barter. 

At nine, finding we could get no more information from them, we weighed;the natives all left us very quietly as soon as the capstan was manned, and by signs appeared to wish us to revisit them. During the whole timethey were on board, they behaved perfectly well, and did not make anyattempt at stealing, though they must have seen many things most valuableto them, which they might easily have taken. 

From what we saw of Oliliet, it does not appear to be a place from whichany quantity of sea stock can be procured, for although they had plentyof pigs and fowls in the village, they did not seem at all inclined topart with them. Water may be procured on the beach, but a merchant vesselshould be very cautious in sending her boats for it, as the crew beingnecessarily divided, would easily fall victims to any treacherous attackon the part of the natives; and from all we subsequently learnt of themfrom the traders we met at Arru, they are not always to be trusted. 

After clearing the bay we stood to the northward, along the east coast ofTimor Laut, which is formed by a range of hills wooded to the verysummit, and indented by deep bays which would afford anchorage during theNorth-West monsoon, were it not for a coral reef that appears to extendalong the coast, at a distance of two to three miles from the shore. During the day we passed six villages, all built like Oliliet on cliffsoverhanging the sea, and protected on the land side by dense jungle, through which it would be difficult to penetrate. 

ARRU ISLANDS. 

At sunset, we passed a small detached coral reef, and then steered forthe Arru Islands, in the hope of being able to gain some information fromthe traders who frequent them, for the purpose of procuring the birds ofParadise, trepang, pearls, etc. Which are found in their vicinity. 

During our passage across, we had very irregular soundings, and atdaylight on the 24th of March, saw the Arru Islands; all the islands ofthis group, which extends from North to South about 100 miles, and theeastern limits of which are but imperfectly known, are very low andswampy, but from being well-wooded, have the appearance of being muchhigher than they really are: many of the trees that we saw attained aheight of ninety feet, before they began to branch out. 

DOBBO HARBOUR. 

We stood along the islands to the northward all day, with very lightwinds, and on the 25th were off the entrance of Dobbo harbour, situatedbetween the two islands, Wamma and Wokan. As there were severalsquare-rigged vessels in the harbour, we tacked and made signal for apilot, and were soon afterwards boarded by the master of one of thevessels, who to our great delight hailed us in very good English. Underhis pilotage we ran in and anchored off a low sandy point, on which thetraders establish themselves during their stay, by building very neatbamboo houses thatched with the palm leaf. Several hundred people, including some Dutchmen from Macassar, and Chinamen, remain throughoutthe year. The house of Messrs. Klaper and Nitzk, cost above 300 poundsand contained goods to the amount of ten times that sum and upwards. Thetrade with these islands appears to be carried on in the followingmanner. Towards the end of the North-West monsoon, the trading vesselsfrom Java and Macassar, having laid in their stock for barter, come overto Dobbo, generally touching at the Ki Islands to procure boats, whichare there built in great numbers. On arriving they make the chief of theisland (who carries a silver-headed stick, with the Dutch arms engravedupon it, as an emblem of his authority) a present, which he considers tobe his due, consisting generally of arrack and tobacco. The large boatsthey have brought from the Ki Islands having been thatched over, andfitted with mat sails are then despatched through the various channelsleading to the eastward, under the charge of a Chinaman, to trade fortrepang, pearls, pearl oyster-shells, edible birds-nests, and birds ofParadise, in return for which they give chiefly knives, arrack, tobacco, coloured cottons, brass wire, ornaments for the arms, etc. 

These boats return to their vessels as soon as they have procured acargo, of which the pearls form the most valuable portion. The trepangobtained here is only considered as third-rate; that from the Tenimbergroup second, and from Australia first-rate. 

BIRDS OF PARADISE. 

The birds of Paradise, which are brought from the east side of theisland, appeared to be plentiful; they are shot by the natives (from whomthe traders purchase them for one rupee each) with blunt arrows, whichstun them without injuring the plumage, and are then skinned and dried. The natives describe them as keeping together in flocks, headed by one, they call the Rajah bird, whose motions they follow. *

(*Footnote. This is also mentioned by Pennant in his work on the MalayanArchipelago, published in 1800. )

During the absence of the trading boats, the rest of the crews areemployed making chinam of lime, from the coral which abounds on thebeach, which fetches a good price at Banda, where fuel is expensive. 

As soon as the South-East monsoon is fairly set in, the junks are hauledup on the western side of the sandy spit at high-water spring tides, asort of dam is then built round them, with bamboos, and a kind of mat theMalays call kadgang, banked up with sand; from this the water is bailedout by hand, so as to form a dry dock in which they clean and coat thebottom with chinam which lasts till the next season. 

The cargo, as it is brought in by the different trading boats, iscarefully dried and stowed away in the different storehouses on thepoint. 

CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. 

Of the natives of the islands we had not on this occasion an opportunityof seeing much, but the traders on the whole gave them a good characterfor honesty, and described them as a harmless race very much scattered. They used formerly to bring their articles of barter to Dobbo, butdiscontinued it within the last few years, in consequence of having beenill-used by the Bughis. Many of them profess Christianity, having beenconverted by Dutch Missionaries sent from Amboyna. 

THE KI ISLANDS. 

Having completed our survey of the harbour and obtained such supplies aswe could, which, from the traders only bringing with them enough fortheir own consumption, did not amount to much, we sailed for the KiIslands; a group sixty miles to the eastward of Arru, consisting of twolarge islands called the greater and lesser Ki, and a number of smallislands lying to the westward of the latter. 

The great Ki is about sixty miles long, high, and mountainous; the lesserKi and the small islands are low, few parts of the group attaining anelevation of more than fifty feet. 

Owing to the light airs and unsettled weather attendant on the change ofthe monsoon, it was not till the 3rd that we arrived off the village ofKi Illi, situated on the north-east end of the great Ki, and finding noanchorage, the brig stood on and off, while we landed in the boats at thevillage which is built close down on the beach and surrounded by a wall, but not so strongly protected by its position as the villages in TimorLaut. The houses, like those at Oliliet, were raised on piles above theground, but were not surmounted by the carved gables which seem to bepeculiar to the Tenimber group. 

In the centre of the village we noticed a large building, evidently aplace of worship, surrounded by a grass plot, on which a number of stoneswere ranged in a circle with some taller ones in the middle. Ki Illi iscelebrated for its manufacture of pottery, of which we saw manyspecimens, formed with great taste, of a coarse porous material, whichbeing unglazed is well adapted for cooling by evaporation, in the mannerso much used in the east. 

BOAT-BUILDING AT KI ILLI. 

We had also an opportunity of seeing the boats, which are built in greatnumbers from the excellent timber with which all the islands of thisgroup abound. They are much used by the traders frequenting the ArruIslands, and were highly spoken of for their durability and speed. Theboats we saw, though they varied considerably in size, were all built onthe same plan, having a considerable beam, a clean entrance and run, aflat floor, and the stem and stern post projecting considerably above thegunwales. They were all built of planks cut out of solid timber to theform required, dowelled together by wooden pegs, as a cooper fastens thehead of a cask, and the whole afterwards strengthened by timbers, lashedwith split rattan to solid cleats left for the purpose in each plank, during the process of hewing it into shape. 

Four of the smallest of these boats were purchased for the use of thecolony, for about 2 1/2 dollars each, and were found to answer very well. 

After leaving Ki Illi we sailed to the southward, along the eastern sideof the great Ki, which is well wooded to the summit of the hills, andcleared away for cultivation in many places. There is no anchorage offthis side of the island, which is so steep to, that on one occasion wecould get no bottom with ninety fathoms, two ships' lengths from thebeach. 

At daylight on the 5th we entered the strait between the greater andlesser Ki, the shores on both sides of which are lined with small patchesof cultivation. During the day we observed several small detached reefs, and at sunset anchored on a reef, extending from the north end of thelesser Ki, in thirteen fathoms. 

KI DOULAN. 

April 6. 

After breakfast, I started with some of the officers to visit Ki Doulan, the principal village in the lesser Ki, and sent another boat to soundtowards a small island to the westward. After leaving the brig we passeda luxuriant grove of coconut trees, extending along the beach, under theshade of which we saw several villages, where the natives were busilyemployed building boats. 

A pull of three miles brought us to the town of Ki Doulan, situated nearthe beach, and surrounded by a stone wall, which had every appearance ofantiquity. On the sea side, where the wall was in its best state ofpreservation, there were three gates leading towards the beach, butaccessible only by means of ladders four or five feet high, which couldeasily be removed in case of attack. The stones forming the sides of thecentral gateway were ornamented by rude bas-reliefs, representing figureson horseback; and the gate itself, formed of hard wood, and strong enoughto keep out any party not provided with artillery, was richly carved. 

NATIVES OF KI DOULAN. 

Within the walls there was a considerable space in which the houses werebuilt without any regularity, resembling those at Oliliet, with theexception of the carved horns at the gable. We visited the chief's, andfound it tolerably clean: it consisted of one storey only; thehigh-pitched roof being used as a storeroom, to the rafters of which allsorts of miscellaneous articles were suspended. The chief himself, whowas an old man, dressed in the black serge denoting his rank, was verycivil, and offered us arrack and cocoa nuts. The natives of this groupdiffer considerably from those of Arru, and more resemble those of TimorLaut, but are not so much inclined to treachery. The population is saidto amount to 8 or 10, 000. 

Christianity has not made the same progress here as at Arru, and many ofthe natives profess the Mahometan faith, to which they have beenconverted by the Mahometans of Ceram, who have several priests in theislands. 

They pay great attention to cultivation, and produce considerablequantities of coconut oil of a superior quality. Tortoise-shell is alsofound, but their chief source of trade consists in the number of boatsand proas, of various sizes, they build of the timber which abounds inboth islands. Outside the walls we noticed several burial places; and ina small shed, not very highly ornamented, was a rude figure of a man, nearly the size of life, holding a spear in his hand; and near this shedwas a building resembling the one at Ki Illi, but much smaller, and verymuch out of repair. On the beach two Macassar proas were hauled up torepair, and their crews had erected houses, similar to those at Arru, forthe purpose of carrying on their trade. The boats, of which the nativeshad great numbers in every stage of construction, were more highlyfinished than those at Ki Illi, but of the same form. 

On returning on board, Mr. Hill, who had been away sounding, reported aclear channel to the westward. In the evening we again landed at a smallvillage near the ship, beautifully situated in a most luxuriant grove ofcoconut trees, and surrounded by a jungle, too dense to penetrate, exceptwhere a path had been cleared. Many of the trees were very fine. 

AGILITY OF JACK WHITE. 

We were all much amused and surprised at the extraordinary activity ourAustralian native, Jack White, displayed in ascending the coconut trees, which he did with as much ease as any of us could have mounted a ladder, and when near the top of one of the highest, finding the sleeves of hisfrock and the legs of his trousers in the way, he held on with one armand leg, while he rolled his trousers up above the knee, and then withboth legs, while he rolled his sleeves above his elbows. His delight atthe coconuts, which were quite new to him, was very great. 

Although we were not very successful in obtaining supplies on thisoccasion, we found on a subsequent visit, when our stay was longer, thatthey could be obtained at a very moderate price; firewood and water mayalso be obtained without difficulty. 

Off the town of Ki Doulan the water is too deep for a ship to anchor, butthe shoal which projects from the point of the island three miles northof the town affords good anchorage in both monsoons. 

There seem to be clear passages between all the islands in this group, though contracted in places by reefs, which, from the clearness of thewater, can be distinctly seen from the masthead. 

ISLAND OF VORDATE. 

On the morning of the 6th we got underweigh, and passing to the westwardof the Ki group, saw the Nusa Tello Islands indistinctly through the hazeto the westward of us. At dawn on the 7th we made the high land ofVordate, but light winds prevented our making much progress till theevening, when a light air carried us along the land, and soon aftersunset we anchored in twenty fathoms off a small village. Daylight on the8th did not impress us with a favourable idea of our anchorage, for itappeared we had entered by a narrow and deep channel between two reefsupon which there was not more than 4 1/2 fathoms. 

At 8 a chief came off from the village in a large canoe pulled by about adozen men, with a tom-tom beating in the bow. He was very anxious to getsome arrack, and promised plenty of supplies. 

After breakfast we landed, and were saluted by one gun from a proa hauledup on the beach. Our arrival had evidently caused much excitement amongthe natives, who came down in great numbers, and formed a semicircleround the boat. They were nearly all armed with cresses and steel-headedspears. Several of them wore a sort of breastplate made of hide, andtheir heads were ornamented with a profusion of richly coloured feathersand long horn-like projections formed of white calico; long necklaces ofshells hung down to their waists, and all had their hair dyed in the sameway as at Oliliet. Here we again noticed the carved horns surmounting thegables of the houses. 

THE ORAN KAYA. 

Soon after we landed, the Oran Kaya made his appearance, and seemed to bein a great state of alarm. As soon as he got within the circle of hiscountrymen he commenced a series of most profound salaams, bending hishead down till he touched my feet. By way of reassuring him, I presentedhim with a fine gaudy red shawl, which for a time had the desired effect;and he then produced a document in Dutch, signed by Lieutenant Kolff, which appeared to be a certificate of good conduct. By means of thevocabulary and dictionary I tried to make them understand that we onlywanted some pigs, vegetables and poultry, for which we had brought moneyto pay or goods to exchange. These he promised to procure for us, and tosend them on board, earnestly making signs all the time that we should goaway as soon as possible. 

ALARM OF THE NATIVES. 

Finding the natives still coming down to the beach in great numbers, andthat all were in a highly excited state, we merely gratified ourcuriosity on the beach, without attempting to go into their village, andreturned on board. 

We subsequently found out that the natives had some reason to be alarmedat our appearance, as they had been recently visited by a frigate, sentby the Dutch government to punish the inhabitants of the neighbouringisland Laarat for the murder of Captain Harris, and part of the crew ofthe English bark Alexander, on which occasion she destroyed the villageand took away several of the natives, who were supposed to have beenimplicated in the business, prisoners to Amboyna. 

After about an hour, during which the natives remained in a compact groupon the beach, evidently in deep consultation, the same chief who visitedus in the morning came off again, bringing with him the promisedsupplies, consisting only of a billy-goat and a small pig. We tried sometime in vain to convince him we had no hostile intentions, and as theweather was too unsettled to remain in so insecure an anchorage, weweighed, and made sail for Oliliet, passing close along the island ofVordate, which is moderately high, luxuriantly wooded, very wellcultivated, and apparently densely inhabited. It is separated from Laaratby a narrow strait, which, from the way the sea broke across it, appearedto be quite shoal. 

RETURN TO OLILIET. 

April 11. 

At 10 A. M. We were off Laouran, but finding the swell, occasioned by thestrong breezes experienced yesterday, was breaking too heavily on thereef skirting the bay for a boat to land, we stood on for Oliliet, and onrounding the point fired a gun and hove to. Two canoes soon after leftthe beach, and from the number of articles of European manufacture withwhich they were decorated, we soon saw that some vessel must have visitedthe place since our departure; and on the chief coming on board he handedme some papers, from which I ascertained that Mr. Watson, commanding theEssington schooner, had visited the place during our absence; and byhaving a person on board who could communicate with the natives, he hadsucceeded by threats and promises held out to the chiefs in getting theEuropean boy given up to him. The boy had nearly forgotten his English atfirst, but Mr. Watson afterwards made out that he belonged to theStedcombe schooner, the crew of which were all murdered by the nativeswhile engaged in watering their vessel. He had been ten years on theisland, during which time he had been well treated by his captors. 

The brig was obliged to stand off and on, as there is no anchorage offOliliet during the south-east monsoon, which had now set in; but twoboats were sent on shore to obtain supplies. 

CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 

They were well received by the natives, and again visited the village, where they were surprised to find that all the women came out to seethem. All, both young and old, were dressed in a dark coloured wrapper, which reached from the waist to the knees, and on their ankles they worea profusion of bright brass ornaments. The boats were not very successfulin procuring stock, but the chiefs promised an abundant supply in themorning, which I determined to wait for, and accordingly worked towindward under easy sail during the night, but found at daylight that wehad been sent so far to the southward by a current, that it was 10 A. M. Before we were again near enough to send the boats in. 

On landing they found all their chiefs, and a considerable number of thenatives waiting on the beach with vegetables, etc. For sale. But they hadhardly commenced their barter, when a powerful looking man, armed with alarge iron-headed spear, in a state of intoxication, came rushing downfrom the village; he made directly for the crowd upon the beach, apparently with the intention of attacking our party; but the nativesimmediately closed upon him, and after some trouble disarmed him; afterwhich he continued to rush about the crowd in a violent state ofexcitement, running against any of our party he could see, and makingurgent signs to them to leave the shore. 

At the same time the noise and confusion on the beach was so great, thatthe officer in charge of the party prepared to return on board at once, in order to avoid any collision with the natives. As soon as the chiefsbecame aware of his intention, they were most anxious he should remain, and made every profession of friendship to induce him to do so; but hehad heard so much of their treachery from the traders at Arru that heresisted their entreaties, and returned on board at half-past eleven. 

ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON. 

As soon as the boats were hoisted up, we made sail for Port Essington, and anchored there on the 15th of April. 

. . . 

It was our intention to have concluded this volume with Captain Stanley'snarrative, but as the following account of the daring manner in which Mr. Watson rescued the English boy from the savages of Timor Laut, has falleninto our hands, and as doubtless it was the cause of the strange andsuspicious reception the Britomart's boats met with on their second visitto Oliliet, we here lay it before our readers:

MR. WATSON'S PROCEEDINGS AT TIMOR LAUT. 

Mr. Watson had not been off the island long before his vessel, theschooner Essington, was surrounded by eleven armed canoes, for thepurpose of attack. The chief wished Mr. Watson to go in and anchor, whichhe refused, but showed him that he was ready for defence in case of anyoutrage on their part. The chief, thinking he could entrap him, madesigns of friendship, and Mr. Watson allowed him and his crew to come onboard. The chief then said that a white man was on shore, and wished themaster to go and fetch him off, which was refused. Mr. Watson then laidout an immense quantity of merchandise, which he said he would give forthe white man, and desired the chief to send his canoe ashore to fetchhim; stating, however, that he would retain him on board till the whiteman came, and also, that if he was not immediately brought, he wouldeither hang or shoot the chief, and he had rope prepared for the purpose, as also a gun. This manoeuvre had the desired effect on the chief, whoimmediately despatched his canoe to the shore. For three days and nightsMr. Watson was compelled to cruise off the island, the natives stillrefusing to bring off Forbes. Towards the close of the third day theybrought off the boy, but would not put him on board until Mr. Watsonplaced the rope round the chief's neck, when they came alongside; and asthe crew of the Essington were hoisting Forbes up the side of the vessel, the chief jumped overboard into his canoe. Mr. Watson made the chief comeon board again, and told him that although he had deceived and wished toentrap him, yet he would show that the white men were as good as theirword; and not only gave the chief the promised wares, but alsodistributed some to each of the other ten canoes. This line of conducthad a very good effect on the natives, who after receiving the goodsexpressed great joy, and as they were leaving kept up a constant cheer. Forbes at first appeared in a savage state, but after a short time, stated the following particulars relative to the loss of the Stedcombe, and the massacre of the crew: The Stedcombe, Mr. Barns, master, arrivedoff the coast in the year 1823. Mr. Barns* having left her in charge ofthe mate, he and two or three others went ashore at Melville Island. 

(*Footnote. When at Sydney, in 1838, I met Mr. Barns, who corroboratedForbes's account. J. L. S. )

The mate ran her into Timor Laut, and anchored; he then went ashore withthe crew, leaving the steward, Forbes, and another boy, on board. Afterthey had been ashore a short time, Forbes looked through a telescope tosee what they were about, when he saw that the whole of the crew werebeing massacred by the natives. He immediately communicated that fact tothe steward, and advised him to unshackle the anchor, and run out to sea, as the wind was from the land. The steward told him to go about hisbusiness, and when he got on deck he found the vessel surrounded withcanoes. The natives came on board and murdered the steward; Forbes andthe other boy got up the rigging, and in consequence of their expertnessthe natives were unable to catch them, but at last made signs for them tocome down, and they would not hurt them. They availed themselves of theonly chance left them of saving their lives, and surrendered. They wereimmediately bound, and taken on shore; a rope was fastened to the ship, her cable slipped, and the natives hauled her ashore, where she soonbecame a wreck. Forbes states that several Dutchmen had called at theisland, to whom he appealed for rescue, but they all refused tointerfere; and latterly, whenever any vessel hove in sight, he was alwaysbound hand and foot, so that he should have no chance of escape. Bothhimself and the other boy had been made slaves to the tribes; hiscompanion died about three years since. The poor fellow is still in avery bad state of health; the sinews of his legs are very muchcontracted, and he has a great number of ulcers all over his legs andbody. Fortunately for Forbes, Mr. Watson had a surgeon on board theEssington, who immediately put him under a course of medicine, which, without doubt, saved his life; for, from the emaciated state in which hewas received on board, it was impossible, without medical aid, that hecould have survived much longer. Too much Fraise cannot be awarded to Mr. Watson for his exertions in rescuing this lad. 

APPENDIX. 

LIST OF BIRDS, COLLECTED BY THE OFFICERS OF H. M. S. BEAGLE, DURING THE YEARS 1837 TO 1843. 

IchthyiAetus leucogaster. Ieracidea berigora. Astur approximans, Vig. And Horsf. Collocalia arborea. Podargus humeralis, Vig. And Horsf. Podargus phalaenoides, Gould. Eurostopodus guttatus. Merops ornatus, Lath. Dacelo Leachii. Dacelo cervina, Gould. Halcyon macleayii, Jard. And Selb. Alcyone azurea. Dicrurus bracteatus, Gould. Colluricincla cinerea, Gould. Pachycephala gutturalis. Pachycephala melanura, Gould. Pachycephala pectoralis, Vig. And Horsf. Pachycephala lanoides, Gould. Artamus sordidus. Cracticus destructor. Cracticus argenteus. Grallina Australis. Graucalus melanops. Graucalus albiventris. Pitta Iris, Gould. Oriolus viridis. Cinclosoma punctatum, Vig. And Horsf. Malurus Lamberti, Vig. And Horsf. Malurus melanocephalus, Vig. And Horsf. Malurus splendens. Malurus brownii, Vig. And Horsf. Stipiturus malachurus. Cysticola exilis ?Ephthianura albifrons. Sericornis frontalis. Anthus pallescens. Cincloramphus cruralis. Mirafra ? ---- ?Petroica multicolor. Zosterops luteus. Pardalotus punctatus. Pardalotus uropygialis, Gould. Dicaeum hirundinaceum. Amadina Lathami. Amadina gouldiae, Gould. Estrelda oculea. Estrelda phaeton. Estrelda annulosa, Gould. Estrelda temporalis. Donacola pectoralis, Gould. Donacola flaviprymna, Gould. Emblema picta, Gould. Poephila acuticauda, Gould. Rhipidura albiscapa, Gould. Rhipidura isura, Gould. Rhipidura motacilloides. Seisura volitans. Piezorhynchus nitidus, Gould. Myiagra platyrostris. Gerygone ---- (like G. Albogularis). Chlamydera nuchalis. Cacatua galerita, Vieill. Cacatua eos. Calyptorhynchus macrorhynchus, Gould. Platycercus brownii. Melopsittacus undulatus. Nymphicus novae-hollandiae. Pezoporus formosus. Trichoglossus swainsonii, Jard. And Selb. Trichoglossus rubritorquis, Vig. And Horsf. Trichoglossus versicolor, Vig. Climacteris melanura, Gould. Sittella leucoptera, Gould. Chalcites lucidus. Eudynamys orientalis. Centropus phasianus. Meliphaga novae-hollandiae, Vig. And Horsf. Glyciphila ocularis, Gould. Glyciphila fasciata, Gould. Ptilotis versicolor, Gould. Ptilotis flavescens, Gould. Ptilotis flava, Gould. Ptilotis chrysotis. Entomophila albogularis, Gould. Entomophila rufogularis, Gould. Acanthogenys rufogularis, Gould. Tropidorhynchus citreogularis, Gould. Tropidorhynchus argenticeps, Gould. Acanthorhynchus superciliosus, Gould. Myzomela sanguineolenta. Myzomela erythrocephala, Gould. Myzomela pectoralis, Gould. Myzomela obscura, Gould. Entomyza albipennis. Myzantha lutea, Gould. Ptilinopus superbus. Leucosarcia picata. Phaps chalcoptera. Phaps elegans. Geophaps smithii. Geophaps plumifera, Gould. Petrophassa albipennis, Gould. Geopelia cuneata. Geopelia placida, Gould. Carpophaga luctuosa. Macropygia phasianella. Oedicnemus grallarius. Haematopus fuliginosus, Gould. Haematopus longirostris. Turnix melanotus, Gould. Turnix castanotus, Gould. Turnix varius. Turnix velox, Gould. Turnix pyrrhothorax, Gould. Synoicus australis. Synoicus ? chinensis. Ardea novae-holiandiae, Lath. Nycticorax caledonicus, Less. Falcinellus igneus. Numenius australasianus, Gould. Recurvirostra rubricollis, Temm. Strepsilas collaris, Linn. Pelidna australis. Tribonyx ventralis. Rallus philippensis. Eulabeornis castaneoventris. Cygnus atratus. Leptotarsis eytoni. Dendrocygna arcuata. Nettapus pulchellus, Gould. Tadorna radjah. Casarca tadornoides. Biziura lobata. Bernicla jubata. Anas novae-hollandiae. Spatula rhynchotis. Malacorhynchus membranaceus. Podiceps poliocephalus, Jard. And Selb. Phalacrocorax carboides, Gould. Phalacrocorax melanoleucus, Vieill. 

. . . 

APPENDIX. 

DESCRIPTIONS OF SIX FISH

TAKEN BY THE OFFICERS OF THE BEAGLE ON THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, BY SIR JOHN RICHARDSON, M. D. F. R. S. , ETC. 

INSPECTOR OF NAVAL HOSPITALS. 

. . . 

Balistes phaleratus. RICHARDSON. 

CH. SPEC. B. Cauda tot aculeolis quot squamis armata; gena tota squamulisstipatis aspera, nec lines laevibus decursa; squamis majoribusrotuntdatis post aperturam branchiorum; fascia frontali et mtacula caudaenigris: fascia nigra laterali ab oculo ad caudam extensa, cumque pari suoter trans dorsum conjugata. 

RADII. D. 3-1 : 25; A. 1 : 23; C. 12; P. 14. 

FISHES. PLATE 1. Figures 4, 5. 

Profile oval, with a somewhat convex nape, and the face descending in avery slightly concave line. The mouth is on a level with the middleheight of the body, and forms the obtuse end of the oval. The white teethhave their points ranged evenly, the eye is high up but does not touchthe profile, and the two contiguous openings of the nostrils areimmediately before it. The gill opening inclines obliquely forward as itdescends, touches the middle line of height at its lower end, and itslength is equal to a fifth of the altitude of the body. The scalesanterior to the pectorals and gill openings are closer and finer than onthe hinder parts of the fish. On the body each scale is roughened byvertical rows of blunt points, which become more acute towards the hinderpart of the flanks, and on the tail one of the points of each scale risesinto a minute spine curved towards the caudal fin. In the narrowest partof the tail there are not above three or four of these spines in avertical row, but there are ten or more between the posterior parts ofthe dorsal and anal. Immediately behind the gill openings there are threeroundish scales larger than the others. The scales of the cheeks arestudded with points, which are more minute and rounded than the others, and there are no smooth intervening lines, such as exist on the cheeks ofsome other species. The dorsal spine is rather short, thickish, and notacute. It is strongly roughened by five or six rows of short bluntish andtruncated teeth. The soft dorsal and anal commence with a simple flexibleray which is not jointed. The other rays have each from four to six roughpoints near their bases. The rays of the caudal are alternate. Theventral spine is short and blunt, and is armed with short divaricatedteeth, some of which are forked. The roughness runs forward on the chineor ventral line, until it passes gradually into the ordinary scales ofthe head. The dewlap is very slightly extensible, and but littledeveloped. It is supported by six thread-like rays, which are all dividedto the base. 

A black band crosses the forehead from eye to eye. The upper half of theeye is bordered with black. The first dorsal exclusive of its last ray isof the same hue; a black band descends from it, and two from the seconddorsal, which meet in a stripe that extends from the eye to the tail, thewhole bearing some resemblance to the traces of a coach-horse. There isalso a black mark on the upper surface of the tail, and a minute brownishspeck on each scale, which specks form very faint rows on the cheeks andbelly. The ground tint is pale or whitish, with some duskiness on theface, as if it had been coloured when recent. Length, 2 1/4 inches. Height of body, 1 1/8 inch. 

HABITAT. The western coasts of Australia. 

. . . 

Cristiceps axillaris. RICHARDSON. 

CH. SPEC. C. Pinnis intaminatis; macula argentata post os maxillare, altera in summa gena pone oculum et tertia majori in axilla pectorali;linea laterali argenteo-punctata. 

RADII. B. 6; D. 3 : --28 : 7; A. 2 : 25; C. 11; P. 11; V. 1 : 2. 

FISHES. PLATE 1. Figures 1, 2, 3. 

This singularly delicate and clear-looking fish has, after long immersionin spirits, a pale flesh colour, with transparent and spotless fins. Abright silvery streak descends from the angle of the preorbitar to thecorner of the mouth, where it dilates a little. A speck of the samecolour exists within the upper limb of the preoperculum, and immediatelybehind the pectoral fin there is a large oblong one. The little tubesforming the lateral line are also silvery. It is with much doubt that Iname this species as distinct from the C. Australis of the Histoire desPoissons, but there some points in M. Valenciennes' description of thatfish which I cannot reconcile with the specimen now under consideration. And first, with respect to scales, M. Valenciennes states that he coulddetect none in australis, but in axillaris there are minute round scales, lying rather wide of each other, each having central umbo and linesradiating from it to the circumference. These scales are not easily seenwhile the skin continues moist, but become apparent as it dries, and aremost numerous towards the tail. The head of axillaris is scaleless, and arow of pores runs along the lower jaw, up the preoperculum, and along thetemporal groove. The eye is also encircled by similar pores. The muscularfibres shine through the delicate skin as in australis, and the teeth onthe jaws and vomer appear to be similar. On comparing the specimen ofaxillaris with the figure of australis in the Histoire des Poissons, thesecond dorsal does not appear undulated as in the latter, but the spinousrays increase gradually in height from the first, and the anterior dorsalis proportionally higher; the distance also between the ventrals and anusis considerably less in proportion to the length of the head, which iscontained four times and a half in the total length of the fish, whilethe height of the body is contained five times. The proportions ofaustralis are stated differently. Length of specimen, 3. 42 inches. 

HABITAT. King George's Sound (Benj. Bynoe, Esquire Surgeon of theBeagle). 

Since the above notice was drawn up I have examined a cristiceps upwardsof six inches long, which was sent from Botany Bay by Sir Everard Home tothe College of Surgeons. This does not clear up the doubt respecting theidentity of australis and cristiceps. It has completely lost its colours, and shows neither the greenish bands of australis, nor the silvery marksof axillaris, it has, however, the form of the fins of the latter, withthe number of rays exactly as in australis, a space between the ventralsand anus equal to the length of the head, scales on the body, as inaxillaris, and similar pores on the head. Better materials are requiredto enable us to decide whether axillaris be a nominal species or not. 

. . . 

Scorpaena stokesii. RICHARDSON. 

RADII. D. 12 : 9; A. 3 : 5; C. 13 6/6; P. 17; V. 1 : 5. 

FISHES. PLATE 2. Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9, natural size. 

The Scorpaenae have so strong a generic resemblance among themselves thatit is difficult to detect the distinctive characters of the species, especially as the colours of the recent fish speedily fade when maceratedin spirits, or when the mucous integument decays or is injured. We havereceived but a single example of the subject of this article, which isnamed in honour of the able commander of the Beagle. 

The species bears a near resemblance to the Scorpaena militaris, butdiffers from it in having no spinous point terminating the intra orbitarridges, and in the distribution of the scales on the cheek and gillcover. The spinous points on the head approach very near to those of bufoand porcus. The inferior preorbitar tooth is acutely spinous, and pointsdirectly downwards; the two anterior ones are inconspicuous, and not veryacute, and the smaller upper posterior one observed in most Scorpaenae isobsolete, or, at least, completely hidden by the integuments. The nasalspines are, as usual, small, simple, and acute. The three supra orbitarteeth are smaller than in militaris, and the middle one reclines so as tobe concealed by the integument instead of standing boldly up. The two lowridges between the orbits do not end in spinous points. The lateralridges continued from the orbits over the supra scapulars, and thetemporal ridges which are parallel to them, but run farther back, containeach four teeth. The infra-orbitar ridge is slightly uneven anteriorly, and two reclining teeth may be made out at its posterior end. Thepreoperculum is curved in the segment of a circle, and has a short spine, with a smaller one on its base, opposite to the abutment of theinfra-orbitar ridge. Beneath this spine there are four angular points onthe edge of the bone. The opercular spines are as usual two in number, being the tips of two low even divergent ridges, with a curved notch inthe edges of the bone between them. The coracoid bone is notched abovethe pectoral fin, the notch being terminated below by a spine, and aboveby an acute corner. There are no scales between the cranial ridges on thetop of the head, nor in the concave inter-orbital space. A single row offive or six scales traverses the cheek below the infra-orbitar ridge. Thetemples before the upper limb of the preoperculum are densely scaly, asis also the gill flap above the upper opercular ridge. The acutemembranous lobe which fills the notch between the two opercular spines islikewise scaly, and there are a few scales about the origin of theridges, but the space between the ridges, the sub-operculum, and theinter-operculum, are naked. 

There is a short fringed superciliary cirrhus, and some slender filamentsfrom other parts of the head, as shown in the figure, also lax skinnytips on the inferior points of the preorbitar and preoperculum, but thecondition of the specimen does not admit of other cirrhi being properlymade out if such actually existed. In the axilla of the pectoral thereare four or five pale round spots. The figure, which is of the naturalsize, represents the markings which remain after long maceration in weakspirit. If there be a black mark in the first dorsal, as in themilitaris, it is effaced in our specimen. Length, 2. 4 inches. 

HABITAT. The coasts of Australia. 

. . . 

Smaris porosus. RICHARDSON. 

CH. SPEC. Smaris rostro porosissimo; fascia obscura e rostro per oculumrecte ad caudam tracta; fascia altera in summo dorso. 

RADII. B. 6; D. 10 : 9; A. 3 : 7; C. 15 5/5; V. 1 : 5. 

FISHES. PLATE 3. 

This Smaris has fewer dorsal rays than any species described in theHistoire des Poissons, and a shorter body than the Mediterraneanvulgaris. Its shape is fusiform, the greatest height, which is at theventrals, and which exceeds twice the thickness, being contained exactlyfour times in the total length, caudal included. The thickness at thegill cover is greater than that of the body, which lessens very graduallyto the end of the tail. The snout is transversely obtuse, but is ratheracute in profile. A cross section of the body at the ventrals is ovate, approaching to an oval, the obtuse end being upwards. In profile thecurve of the belly is rather greater than that of the back, and the faceslopes downwards to the mouth, nearly in a straight line. 

The head forms rather less than a quarter of the whole length. The eye islarge, and approaches near the profile without trenching on it. The mouthis scarcely cleft so far back as the nostrils. The intermaxillaries aremoderately protractile, and curve a little downwards. 

The teeth are disposed on the jaws in rather broad villiform bands, theindividual teeth being setaceous and erect. They become a little tallernearer the outside, and the outer terminal cross row, composed of threeon each side of the symphysis, may be termed small canines. On the lowerjaw the villiform teeth in front are more uniformly small, and there isan acute row of subulate teeth, which are tallest in the middle of thelimbs of the jaw, beyond which, towards the corners of the mouth, thereis an even row of very small teeth. At the end of the jaw there is asmall canine on each side exterior to all the others. 

The fore edge of the preorbitar is slightly curved in form of the italicf, the lower corner curving forward abruptly, so as to produce a notch, which is filled up by the extremity of the retracted maxillary. The wholeend of the snout, back to the eyes, including the disk of the preorbitar, is minutely porous, and a row of large pores borders the upper half ofthe orbit. 

The jaws, the uneven lobate disk of the preoperculum and thebranchiostegous membrane are naked, the rest of them being scaly. Thescales of the cheek are disposed in six concentric curves, the samearrangement extending to the gill-cover, but less conspicuously. A smallflat spinous point projects beyond the scales of the operculum, which hasa very narrow membranous edging. The scales are ciliated. The caudal isslightly notched at the end, its basal half is scaly, as is also the baseof the pectorals; the rest of the fins are scaleless. The dorsal isnearly even, its height being, however, rather greatest at the fourth orfifth spine. Its end is rounded. 

A dark stripe, commencing at the top of the snout, runs through the eyestraight to the tail, and a fainter one occupies the summit of the backto the end of the dorsal. The curve of the lateral line rises above thelower stripe anteriorly, but coincides with it beyond the posterior endof the dorsal. The rest of the fish is silvery, and the fins are notmarked. These colours are described from a specimen preserved in spirits. Length, 5 inches. 

HABITAT. King George's Sound. (Bynoe). 

. . . 

Chelmon marginalis. RICHARDSON. 

Chelmon marginalis, Richardson, Annals and Mag. Of Nat. Hist. 10, page28, September 1842. 

RADII. D. 9 : 31; A. 3-2l; C. 17 3/3; P. 16; V. 1 : 5. 

FISHES. PLATE 4. Natural size. 

This fish is described in the Annals of Natural History from a driedspecimen brought from Port Essington by Mr. Gilbert. It has very much theform of Chelmon rostratus, but wants the eye-like spot on the dorsal. Several examples in spirits were brought by the officers of the Beaglefrom the north-west coast of Australia, all of which show a broad bandpassing between the dorsal and anal fins, which was not visible in thedried specimen. This band is bounded anteriorly by one, and posteriorlyby two whitish lines. In the Annals the anal fin is described as beingmore angular than the dorsal, but in the specimens in spirits the reverseappears to be the case. This variation depends on the degree or expansionof the fins, and both may be much rounded by pulling the rays apart. Theexact distribution of the bands may be clearly made out from the figure, which is very correct. The rays of the fins probably vary in number indifferent individuals, and our careful enumeration of those specimenskept in spirits, as recorded above, gives two or three soft rays more inthe dorsal and anal, than we were able to detect in the dried skin. Length, 5 1/4 inches. 

HABITAT. Northern and north-western coasts of Australia. 

. . . 

ASSICULUS. 

CH. GEN. Corpus compressissimum, assulaeforme: caput crassius, minusaltum, declive. Os parvum. Maxilla inferior porifera, ore clausoascendens, hinc, ore hiante, ultra maxillam speriorem modice protractamextensa. 

Preoperculum margine integro nec spinifero, disco arcto, inaequali, esquamoso, genam squamosam postice et infra cingens. Operculumtridentatum: Suboperculum crenatum; utrumque et interoperculumlatiusculum squamis satis magnis tecta. Dentes villiformes, minuti cumdente canino in media utroque latere maxillae inferioris et trans apicemutriusque maxillae dentibus quatuor (vel sex) fortioribus, altioribus, inserie exteriori ordinatis. Dentes vomeris et palati acuti, stipatiminuti. Dentes pharyngei, acerosi inequales, acuti. 

Membrana branchialis radiis sex sustentata, interoperculis liberis, accumbentibus tecta. 

Squamae satis magnae, nitidae ciliatae. Linea lateralis antice abrupteascendens, dein dorso parallela et approximata, postice diffractainfraque per mediam caudam cursum resumens. 

Pinnae magnae esquamosae. Pinna dorsi anique radiis tribus, spinosis, ceteris articulatis. Pinnae ventrales sub pectorales offixae, proptertenuitatem ventris invicem approximatae. 

The strong resemblance which the subject of this article bears to thePseudochromis olivaceus of Dr. Ruppell (Neue Worlbethiere, page 8, taf. 2, figure 3) induced me at first sight to refer it to the same genus, buton examination I found that very material alterations would require to bemade in the generic characters assigned to Pseudochromis, * to enable themto apply to our fish. 

(*Footnote. M. Swainson, considering this name as very objectionable, hasproposed Labristoma instead. Both names are founded on the resemblancewhich the fish bears to another genus, in whole or in part, and theobjection which has been made to the one is equally valid against theother. )

The above character has therefore been drawn up, and ichthyologists mayconsider Assiculus, either as a proper generic form, or as merely asubgenus or subdivision of Pseudochromis, with an extended character, according to their different views of arrangement. The last named genus, as described and restricted by Dr. Ruppell, from whom all our knowledgeof it is derived, has the jaw teeth disposed in a single row, and theminute palatine teeth of a sphaeroidal form. The operculum has its angleprolonged, and is not toothed, nor is the suboperculum crenated; and aconsiderable number of the rays of the dorsal fin, succeeding to thethree spinous ones, are simple but flexible, the posterior ones onlybeing articulated and divided in the usual manner. Linnaeus has brieflycharacterized two fish (Labrus ferrugineus, Bl. Schn. Page 251, andLabrus marginalis, Id. Page 263) which most probably belong, either toPseudochromis or Assiculus, and which are to be placed, M. Valenciennesthinks, near Malacanthus, among the Labridae. Now, this family, accordingto M. Agassiz, is essentially cycloid in the structure of its scales, although there is a slight departure from the rigid characters of theorder in the serrated preopercular of Crenilabrus, Ctenolabrus, and someothers, and in the spine bearing operculum of Malacanthus. The lattergenus is, moreover, described by M. Agassiz as possessing scales withtoothed edges, and rough to the touch when the finger is drawn forwards. It has the simple intestinal canal without caeca, which is proper to theLabridae. The intestine of Pseudochromis is similarly formed, the stomachbeing continuous with the rest of the alimentary canal, and notdistinguished by any cul de sac. Having but one specimen of Assiculus forexamination, I have not been able to submit it to dissection to seewhether the structure of its intestines be the same or not, but both itand Pseudochromis differ very widely from the labroid type in theirscales, possessing the peculiar firm, shining, strongly ciliatedstructure, which we observe in Glyphisodon and its allies, and in thelateral line being interrupted in a precisely similar manner. Chromis andPlesiops have already been removed by M. Valenciennes from the Labridaeto the Glyphisodontidae, and it is with them that we feel inclined torange Assiculus and Pseudochromis, notwithstanding the discrepancies inthe form of the intestinal canal. We can, however, trace a gradation inthe variation of form. The normal number of caeca in the Glyphysodontidaeis three. In Chromis there are generally two small ones, while the Boltiof the Nile, or the Chromis niloticus of Cuvier, has no pyloric caecum, but a large cul de sac to the stomach. Malacanthus is widely separatedfrom the Glyphisodontidae by its continuous lateral line. Since theseremarks were written I have seen Muller's paper, entitled, Beitrage zurKentniss der naturlichen Familien der Fische, in which the Chromidae areindicated as a distinct family from the Glyphisodontidae, which latter henames Labroidei stenoidei; and Pseudochromis, it is stated, belongs toneither of these families, because it has twofold pharyngeals with adivision between them. Dr. Muller promises a separate article onPseudochromis, which I have not yet seen. 

. . . 

Assiculus punctatus. 

RADII. BR. 6; D. 3 : 23; A. 3 : 12; C. 21; P. 18: V. 1, 5. 

FISHES. PLATE 2. Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. 

This fish is as thin in the body as a lath, whence the generic name. Itsgreatest width is at the cheek, as shown by the section figure 3, wherethe transverse diameter is about half the height. Figure 4 shows thesection at the gill cover, and third dorsal spine, where the thickness isless; and figure 5, represents a section behind the ventrals, where thethickness is little more than a tithe of the height, and it graduallydecreases to the caudal fin. The oblong profile is highest at the thirddorsal spine, whence it descends with a slightly convex curve to themouth, which is low down--the under jaw when extended, being nearly on aline with the belly. The height of the tail between the vertical fins isequal to half the greatest height of the body. The dorsal and ventrallines are both acute, especially the former, and the medial line of thenape continues acute to the orbits. 

The length of the head, measured from the upper jaw, is contained fourtimes and a half in the total length of the fish. The large round eye, situated near the upper profile, fills more than a quarter of thislength. The orbit is surrounded by a ring of muciferous canals, with openorifices, which are the only exterior vestiges of the suborbitar chain. The small mouth descends obliquely and scarcely reaches back to theorbit. The intermaxillaries are moderately protractile, but the lowerjaw, when depressed, projects still further forward. The maxillary widenstowards its lower end, which curves a little forwards. Three pores existon each limb of the lower jaw. 

The teeth of the upper jaw present a fine, but rather uneven and broadcardiform surface at the symphysis, which narrows to a single row towardsthe corner of the mouth, where they are a little longer and moresubulate. Four canine teeth stand across the end of the jaw anterior tothe dental plate, the intermediate ones being shorter than the outerones. The dentition of the under jaw differs in the dental band beingnarrower, and in there being a conspicuous canine in the middle of eachlimb of the jaw. There are also six canines standing across the extremetips of the jaw, opposed to the upper ones. Most of the teeth areslightly curved backwards. The chevron of the vomer projects from theroof of the mouth, and its surface is armed by minute teeth in aboutthree or four densely crowded rows. The palatine teeth are still moreminute, and the band is four or five deep. The teeth, when examined witha lens, appear to be very acute and in nowise spherical. The pharyngealteeth are subulate and acute, and of unequal heights. There seems to beonly one inferior pharyngeal bone below; but without dissection thiscould not be clearly made out. The outer branchial rakers are long. 

The narrow, slightly pitted, scaleless disk of the preoperculum boundsthe scaly cheek behind and below, and has an entire edge with neitherspine nor acute angle at the bend. The other pieces of the gill cover areclosely covered with scales, only a little smaller than those of thebody. The pretty wide thin inter-operculum lays freely over the gillmembranes, and covers them when shut up. The sub-operculum is minutelycrenulated on the edge, and has a small sub-membranous tip, whichprojects a little beyond the three opercular teeth. A small curved notchmarks the separation between the interoperculum and sub-operculum. 

The scales extend on the crown of the head to the middle of the orbits. The snout, lips, jaws, the place at the corner of the mouth over whichthe maxillary glides and the gill membrane are scaleless. The scales ofthe body are very regularly disposed, showing rhomboidal disks when insitu, with strongly ciliated edges. The lateral line ascends at itscommencement and bends rather suddenly under the first soft dorsal ray torun near and parallel to the ridge of the back. It terminates beneath thesixth ray from the end of the fin, but recommences on the fourth scalebeneath, and runs in the middle height of the tail to the base of thecaudal. Two or three of the scales before its recommencement, have aminute pit in the middle of their disks, as is not unusual with theGlyphisodons. The first part of the lateral line forms an almostcontinuous tubular ridge traced on thirty-eight scales of the second rowfrom the summit of the back; the posterior part traverses six or sevenscales. There are twelve or thirteen scales in a vertical row on the sideof the body. 

The anus, situated a short way before the anal fin, has a very smallaperture. 

There are no scales on the fin membranes. The three dorsal spines areshort, graduated, moderately stout, and pungent. The twenty-three softrays are all distinctly articulated, and more or less branched. The lastray is divided to the base, and is graduated with the two preceding ones, giving a rounded form to the posterior tip of the fin. The specimen hadthe anterior part of the fin frayed a little, so that it is probable thatthe soft rays are higher and less distinctly branched than the artist hasrepresented them to be in copying the example placed before him. Theventrals are in a line with the tip of the gill cover and first softdorsal ray, and from the extreme narrowness of the pelvis are close toeach other. They are tapering, pointed, and overlap the beginning of theanal, which, though it have fewer rays than the dorsal, is similar instructure. The pectoral and caudal are much rounded, especially thelatter. There is a greater space between the anal and caudal than betweenthe dorsal and the same fin. In the caudal there are twenty rays, including two very short ones above, and the same number below. 

The general colour of the specimen, which has been long in spirits, isshining yellowish-brown with several round dots of azure-blue scatteredover the body. The cheek is crossed obliquely by a row of three spots. The figure errs in representing the spots as dispersed over the cheek;they are in fact ranged in a row. Length, 2 1/2 inches. 

HABITAT. Coast of Australia. 

Haslar Hospital, 28th October, 1845. 

. . . 

APPENDIX. 

DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME NEW AUSTRALIAN REPTILES. 

BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F. R. S. , ETC. 

. . . 

Fam. SAURIDAE. 

SILUBOSAURUS, Gray. 

Head subquadrangular, raised in front, head-shields flat, thin, ratherrugose. Nasal shields ovate, triangular, rather anterior, with a groovebehind the nostril. Rostral shields triangular, erect. Supranasal none;internasal broad; frontonasal large, contiguous; frontal andinterparietal small, frontoparietal and parietal moderate; eyebrowshields, 4-4. Temples scaly, no shields between the orbit and labialplates. Eyes rather small, lower lid opatic, covered with scales. Earsoblong, with a large scale in front. Body fusiform, roundish thick;scales of the back, broad, lozenge-shaped, keeled; keels ending in adagger point; largest on the hinder parts of the throat and belly;transverse, ovate, 6-sided. Limbs four, strong. Toes elongate, compressed, unequal, clawed; tail short, conical, tapering, depressed;with rings of large, broad, lozenge-shaped, dagger-pointed, spinosescales, with a central series of very broad 6-sided smooth scalesbeneath. 

This genus is intermediate between Cyclodus and Egernia, but quitedistinct from both. It differs from Tachydosaurus and Cyclodus in havingslender elongated toes like Egernia, in the scales being keeled, and inthere being no series of large plates beneath the orbit, and it is easilyknown from Egernia by the tail being depressed and broad, instead ofconical and round. Like all the genera above named, it appears to bepeculiar to Australia. 

The Silubosaure. Silubosaurus stokesii. 

REPTILES. PLATE 1. 

Olive brown, varied with black and large white spots; shields of the headwhite, black-edged. 

Inhabits Australia. 

EGERNIA, Gray. 

Head quadrangular, rather tapering in front. Head shields convex, rugose. Nasal shields ovate-triangular, rather anterior, approximate; supranasalnone; rostral triangular, erect; internasal lozenge-shaped, as long asbroad; frontonasal rhombic, lateral, separate; frontal and interparietalmoderate, elongate; frontoparietals 2, rather diverging, contiguous infront; parietal moderate, half ovate. Temple shielded. Orbit without anyscales between it and the labial shields. Ears oblong, with 4 smallscales in front. Body fusiform. Scales of the back, sides, and upper partof the limbs broad, 6-sided, with a large central keel ending in a spine, larger on the loins, those of the nape 3- or 5-grooved, of the throat andbelly thin, broad, ovate, 6-sided. Legs 4, strong. Toes elongate, compressed, unequal, clawed. Tail as long as the body, round, tapering, with 6 series of broad 6-sided, keeled, strongly-spined scales, with aseries of broad 6-sided smooth scales. 

Cunningham's Egernia. Egernia cunninghami. 

Tiliqua cunninghami. Gray, Proceedings of the Zoological Society 1832 to1840. 

REPTILES. PLATE 2. 

Olive, white spotted head, brown chin, and beneath white; ears with 3 or4 pointed scales in front. 

Inhabits Australia. 

Fam. AGAMIDAE. 

CHELOSANIA, Gray. 

Head large, covered with small rather unequal not imbricate scales. Sidesof the face rounded, without any large scales upon the edge of theeyebrows. Parotids swollen, unarmed. Nostrils lateral, medial. Throatlax, with a slight cross fold behind. The sides of the neck unarmed. Napeand back with a crest of low angular distant scales. Body compressed, with rings of rather small rhombic keeled rough uniform scales placed incross rings; of the belly rather larger, obliquely keeled; of the limbslarger. Tail elongated, tapering, rather compressed, with keeled scales, those of the under sides rather truncated, the keel of the scales of theend forming ridges, the upper surface slightly keeled, subdentated. Toes5-5, moderate, unequal. Femoral and preanal pores none. 

The Chelosania. Chelosania brunnea. 

Pale brown, rather paler beneath. 

Inhabits West Australia. 

GINDALIA, Gray. 

Head moderate, subquadrangular, covered with regular keeled scales, ofthe occiput rather smaller. Face-ridge rather angular, edged with smallscales. Parotids rather swollen, with a ridge of rather larger conicalscales over the ears above. Nostrils lateral, medial. Throat rather lax, with a cross fold behind. Nape and back rounded, not crested. Scales ofthe back equal, rhombic, keeled, placed in longitudinal series; on thesides smaller, but with the keels forming rather ascending ridges; of thebelly similar, in longitudinal series, with the keels sharp and ratherproduced at the tip. The tail round, tapering, with imbricate rhombicseales, with the keels forming longitudinal ridges. Femoral and preanalpores none. Toes 5-5, unequal. 

GINDALIA, Gray. 

The Gindalia. Gindalia bennettii. 

Pale brown, rather paler beneath; the scales of the back small, sharplykeeled, forming longitudinal ridges, which converge together just at thebase of the tail towards the two upper ridges formed by the keels of thescales of the tail; of the limbs rather larger. 

Inhabits North-West coast of Australia. 

GRAMMATOPHORA. 

The Crested Grammatophore. Grammatophora cristata. 

Olive; head black varied, beneath pale; throat, chest and under side ofthe thighs black; tail black-ringed; scales rather irregular, with acentral and two lateral series of compressed keeled scales; nape with acrest of compressed elevated distant scales; sides of the neck withscattered single elongated conical spines; tail tapering, with uniformkeeled scales, keeled above, rather dilated at the base, with indistinctcross series of rather larger scales. 

Inhabits West Australia. 

The Netted Grammatophore. Grammatophora reticulata. 

Grammatophora decresii, Gray, Grey's Trav. Austr. 2, not Dum. Et Bib. 

Black, yellow-spotted and varied, beneath grey, vermiclated withblackish; tail black-ringed; back and nape with a central series oflarger keeled scales, with distant cross series of similar scales; sidesof the nape and parotids with series of rather larger keeled scales;scales of the back small, subequal; tail tapering, with regular nearlyequal keeled scales, and 1 or 2 cross bands of larger scales at the base. 

Inhabits West Australia. 

The Yellow-spotted Grammatophore. Grammatophora ornata. 

Black; the back with a series of large yellow spots, smaller on thesides; the tail and limbs yellow-banded, beneath yellow; the throatblack-dotted; chest blackish; nape with a slight scaly crest; ears with afew tubercular scales in front; neck with 3 or 4 groups of shorttubercular scales on each side; the scales small, ovate, imbricate, keeled, of the middle of the back rather larger, and with a few ratherlarger (white) ones scattered on the sides; nostril near the front edgeof the orbit. 

Inhabits West Australia. 

Family HYBRIDAE. 

Stokes' Sea Serpent. Hydrus stokesii. 

REPTILES. PLATE 3. 

Grey; white beneath; scales of the back, broad, ovate, cordate, keeled;of the sides larger, and of the belly largest, all keeled; of the twocentral series of the belly rather larger, more acute and smooth. Labialshields, 5, 1, 5, high band-like; the 4 and 5 the highest. 1, cheekscale; 1, anterior, and 3, posterior ocular, the lower hinder largest;the hinder labial shields behind the eye small, the hinder one smallest. 

Inhabits Australian Seas. 

This species is the giant of the genus, being very many times larger thanthe Hydrus major of Shaw (Pelamis shawi, Messem. ) from the coast ofIndia. The body is as thick as a man's thigh, and it must have been amost powerful and dangerous enemy to any person in the water. 

GONIONOTUS, Gray. 

Head ovate, depressed, covered with small rather acute scales, with 2small frontal plates just over the rostral in front; rostral small, triangular, concave in the centre. Nostrils large, rather anterior, inthe middle of a rather large plate, with a slight slit to the hinderedge; labial scales rather larger; the lower ones with a concavity in themiddle of each scale. Eyes convex, rather large, pupil oblong; throatwith small acute scales. Body elongate, compressed, subpentangular; backcovered with very small semicircular scales, with a row of larger ovatekeeled scales on each side, and 2 or 3 rows of similar larger keeledscales over the vertebral line; the sides covered with moderate ovatekeeled scales, rather larger beneath the belly, covered with a series oftransverse rounded plates. Tail elongate, rather compressed, subpentangular, tapering, like the back above, and with a single seriesof rounded transverse plates beneath. 

Gonionotus plumbeus. 

REPTILES. PLATE 4. 

Bluish-grey, belly and beneath white. Length of body 9, of tail 4, total13 inches. 

Inhabits --

This animal is at once known from all the other Homalopsina, by the threekeels on the back, by having only a single series of plates beneath, andin the lower labial shields being pitted. 

Family CROCODILIDAE. 

The MUGGAR or GOA. 

Crocodilus palustris, Lesson Belanger, Vog. 305. Gray Cat. ReptilesBritish Museum 62. Crocodilus vulgaris, Dum. And Bibr. Erp. Gen. N. 108. Crocodilus biporcatus, Cuv. Oss. Foss. Tome 5 plate 1, figure 4. Skull. Crocodilus biporcatus raninus, Muller. 

Inhabits Victoria River. 

Captain Stokes has furnished me with the following note on this species. 

"Length in feet inches:of Alligator: 15 0. From base of head to extremity of nose: 2 2. Across the base of head: 2 0. Iength of lower jaw: 2 0. 

Teeth in both jaws vary in size, and are variously disposed, as will beseen in the sketch. 

In upper jaw on each side of maxillary bone: 18 2 incisors. 

In lower jaw on each side of maxillary bone: 15 2 incisors. 

The largest teeth are 1 1/2 inch in length. The two lower incisors arestronger and longer than the upper, and project through two holes infront part of upper jaw. Breadth across the animal from extreme of onefore foot, across the shoulders, to the other side, 5 feet 2 inches. Thefore feet have each five perfect toes, the three inner or first, havelong horny nails, slightly curved, the two outer toes have no nails, norare they webbed. The third and fourth toes are deeply webbed, allowing awide space between them, which is apparent, even in their passive state. The hind feet are twice the size and breadth of the fore, with four longtoes, the two first are webbed as far as the first joint, and the otherare strongly webbed to the apex of last joint; the last or outer toe hasno nail. From the apex of tail, a central highly notched ridge runs upabout midway of it, and there splitting into two branches, passes up oneach side of the spine over the back, as far up as the shoulders, gradually diminishing in height to the termination. A central ridge runsdown from the nape of the neck, over the spinous processes of thevertebrae (being firmly attached to them by strong ligaments) as far downas the sacrum, diminishing to its termination likewise. "

The eggs are oblong, 3 inches and 3 lines long, and 2 inches 8 lines indiameter. 

The skull of this specimen, which was presented to the British Museum byCaptain Stokes, has exactly the same form and proportions as that of thecrocodiles called Goa and Muggar on the Indian continent, and is quitedistinct in the characters from the Egyptian species. 

A number of large stones, about the size (the largest) of a man's fist, were found in the stomach. 

Messrs. Dumeril and Bibron deny that any species of crocodile is found inAustralia. See Erpet. Gen. 1 1836, 45. 

. . . 

APPENDIX. 

DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW OR UNFIGURED SPECIES OF COLEOPTERA FROM AUSTRALIA. 

BY ADAM WHITE, M. E. S. ASSISTANT IN THE ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT, BRITISHMUSEUM. 

. . . 

Megacephala australasiae, Hope, Proceedings of the Entomological Society, November 1, 1841, Annals and Magazine of Natural History, 9, 425. 

STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 1. 

Habitat: North-West Australia. 

Aenigma cyanipenne, Hope; variety with the whole of the thoraxpunctulated. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 2. 

The specimen figured, in other respects seems to me to agree with thespecies above-mentioned, described briefly by the Reverend F. Hope in theProceedings of the Entomological Society forNovember 1, 1841. 

. . . 

Biphyllocera kirbyana, White, App. To Grey's Australia, 2 462. 

STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 4. 

Habitat: Australia. 

In figure 4a are well seen the beautifully pectinated lamellae of theantennae in this genus. 

The species is of a pitchy brown, beneath it is yellowish and hairy; themargin of the thorax is yellowish, its disk has many short rust-colouredhairs, the elytra have 9 longitudinal impressed lines, the spaces betweentransversely striolated and somewhat scaled. 

. . . 

Calloodes grayianus, White, Annals and Magazine of Natural History, January 1845. 

STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 3. 

Head green, punctured, head shield yellowish, sides rounded, somewhatstraight in front, under side of head bronzy ferruginous. Thorax narrow, the sides slightly rounded so as to be almost continuous with the lateralline of the elytra; behind it projects in the middle, and is notched overthe scutellum: of a lively glossy green, the sides broadly margined withyellow. Elytra much depressed, especially on the sides and behind, havinga wide but shallow sinus on the sides; surface punctured, the puncturesgenerally running in striae, some of the rows placed in slightly groovedlines: lively glossy green, sides broadly margined with yellow. Legs andunderside ferruginous, bases of abdominal segments green, as are the tipsof the femora and all the tarsi: front edge of tibiae of fore-legswithout teeth, hind tibiae moderate. 

Habitat: New Holland, North-West Coast. 

. . . 

Cetonia (Diaphonia) notabilis. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 5. 

Head for the most part yellow, the yellow extending in a point to beyonda line drawn between the eyes, behind deep black, margin somewhatthickened, brownish, four small obscure spots in front; antennae andpalpi brown. Thorax, with many scattered punctures, yellow, with a largeblack mark occupying the greater part of the upper surface, narrowed andnotched in front, sinuated slightly on the sides, and with two notches inthe middle behind. Elytra with many punctures arranged indistinctly inlines, brownish yellow, the suture, tip and extreme edge of each elytronnarrowly margined with brown; scutellum yellowish, black at the base andtip. Abdomen beneath yellow, each segment margined with brown, thepygidium yellow, with two largish oblique black spots. Legs black, posterior femora edged in front with yellow. Length 9 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

This species seems to be allied to Schizorhina succinea Hope. Transactions of the Entomological Society, 3 281. *

(*Footnote. I may here mention, that in the collection of the BritishMuseum there is a female of the Diaphonia frontalis, in colour closelyresembling the male; and that the D. Cunninghami of G. R. Gray, regardedby both Burmeister and Schaum as the female of D. Frontalis, is decidedlya distinct species; it was described and figured by M. M. Gory andPercheron, from a female specimen now in the British Museum. )

. . . 

Stigmodera elegantula. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 6. 

Head cleft between the eyes; Prothorax above and beneath vermilion, witha greenish black spot in the middle, and two small black dots, one oneach side. Elytra with four double rows of impressed punctures, united atthe end. Apex with two sharp points, the outer the longest, a notchbetween them; the elytra are vermilion, the base has a narrow transversegreen band, an angular dark green spot before the middle, with two deepnotches in front, and rounded behind, behind this and connected with itby a narrow sutural line of the same colour, is a fascia running quiteacross the angle in the middle of each elytron, and dilated on thesuture, the tip of each elytron is broadly pointed with the same darkgreen; meso- and metathorax beneath, dark green, as are the legs. Abdomenvermilion. 

Length about 6 lines. 

Habitat: North-West Coast of New Holland. 

This species comes near Conognatha concinnata Hope. Proceedings of theEntomological Society Annals of Natural History 11 318. 

. . . 

Stigmodera saundersii. Hope Transactions of the Entomological Society 4213. 

STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 8. 

Black, with a bluish green hue. Head in front bronzed, deeply punctured. Thorax deeply punctured, with three deep black longitudinal lines above, the middle one broadest: Elytra orange red, with four keels and two rowsof deep punctures between each; edge slightly serrated; end of eachtapering so as to leave a notch when both are closed; tip broadly black, inclined to green in some lights; a large roundish black patch common toboth elytra on the middle, base narrowly edged with black, the shoulderswith a black lineolet and a small round black spot across the suture;legs and under parts of a deep bluish black, with a slight tinge ofgreen. 

Habitat: Van Diemen's Land. 

. . . 

Stigmodera erythrura. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 7. 

Head greenish yellow, deeply punctured, a black band, sinuated in frontbetween the eyes, on the back part of the head. Thorax above black, sidesand a narrow line down the middle yellow. Elytra gradually tapering tothe end, black with the margin at the base yellow, and a somewhat broaderline of the same colour near the suture; on each elytron are three yellowspots, the middle one largest and tipped with red on the outside. Legsand under side greenish yellow; three last segments of abdomen beneath ofa rust colour with four longitudinal rows of yellow spots. 

Length about 6 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland (Swan River). 

Clerus ? obesus. 

INSECTS. PLATE 1, FIGURE 9. 

Head brassy brown; thorax brownish yellow, glossy; elytra with more thanthe basal half deep blue, with regular deeply pitted punctures, close toeach other, an elevated knob at the base in the middle, the apicalportion smooth purplish black, the smooth place on the suture runninginto the pitted part, between the two are four short transverse lines ofwhitish hairs, two on each elytron; near the tip are two oblique patchesof white hairs: head finely punctulate, covered with short hairs. Thoraxas it were two lobed behind, an angular depression in the middle, andsomewhat narrowed in front; legs deep blue with whitish hairs. Length 5lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

This curious species bears the above name of Mr. Newman, in thecollection of the British Museum, I cannot find his description of it, and not having seen Spinola's work, cannot refer it to its particulargenus. 

. . . 

SITARIDA, White. 

Head broader than long, swollen behind the eyes; antennae 11-jointed, first joint the longest, bent and gradually thickened towards the tip, second joint thin and cup-shaped, half the depth of third joint which issquarish, fourth joint oblong, dilated anteriorly at the ends, and largerthan second and third together, fifth to the tenth joints somewhatlamellate, nearly as long as the other four joints; eyes narrow andnotched, the part of the head within the notch prominent; palpi thick, terminal joint oblong. Thorax narrowed in front, rounded on the sides andsomewhat truncated behind; scutellum triangular, with a notchedprojection at the base; elytra very short, one-third the length of thebody, wide at the base, narrowed at the tip; legs heteromerous, rathershort, all the thighs compressed, claws simple. 

This genus, which at first sight looks like a Meloe, is closely allied toSitaris. 

. . . 

Sitarida hopei. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 2. 

Black; elytra slightly pitchy; head and thorax thickly punctured; thoraxwith a cruciform impression on the disk; elytra with three keels meetingbefore they reach the apex, the intermediate spaces and the apexirregularly punctate. 

Length 1 inch 5 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

PALAESTRIDA, White. 

Head as long as broad; antennae with all the joints flattened, serratedon each side; 11-jointed, third to 9th joints widest. Thorax as wide asthe head, narrowed in front; sides somewhat angular truncated behind, surface irregular; scutellum large, triangular. Elytra longer than theabdomen, sides parallel, ends rounded. Legs heteromerous, four claws toeach tarsus, two of them larger than the others, and minutely serrulateon the inside. 

Palaestrida bicolor. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 1. 

Head, thorax, scutellum, body and legs, entirely black. Elytra lightorange with three slight keels, the outer somewhat forked. Head coarselypunctured. Thorax with scattered punctures, and three or four depressionson the upper part. 

Length 6 and 7 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

This new genus comes near Palaestra laporte (Anim. Artic. 2 250) andTmesidera westwood (in Guerin's Mag. De Zool. 1841, plate 85. )

. . . 

Tranes vigorsii (Hope) Schoenh. Curc. 7 2, 130. 

STOKES, INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 3. 

Cinnamon brown, the sides of the thorax with yellowish brown hairs, andpatches in the striae of the same coloured hairs. Sides of the bodybeneath covered with yellowish hairs. Thorax very minutely punctured. Glossy, with a very short deepish groove in the middle behind. 

Length 9 to 11 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

CYCLODERA, White. 

Antennae as long as the body, 11-jointed, first joint thick knobbed, second very small, terminal longer than third, pointed with a blunt toothbeyond the middle. Thorax globular, wider than the body. 

. . . 

Cyclodera quadrinotata. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 6. 

Head, antennae, thorax, body and legs, black. Elytra yellowish red, tipand a large oblong spot on each black, the spot not reaching eithermargin of the elytron; under side of abdomen covered with silky hairs. The head is coarsely punctured, the thorax minutely chagrined with a deepindented spot on each side behind the middle. Elytra finely chagrined, with faint indications of two or three longitudinal lines on each. 

Length 7 1/2 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland, North-West Coast. 

This well marked species seems to be allied to the genera Arhopalus andHesperophanes. 

. . . 

Clytus (Obrida) fascialis. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 4. 

Head black, punctured; antennae black, seventh and eighth jointsyellowish. Thorax black, punctured and hairy, a short narrow smooth lineon the back behind. Elytra purplish violet, with three longitudinalkeeled lines not extending to the tip, coarsely punctured, except on thelines which are smooth: two first pairs of legs red, tips and bases ofthe joints darkish; tarsi with brownish hairs, posterior legs deep black;tibiae with longish hairs. 

Length 4 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

Callipyrga turrita. Nemman, Entomologist, 413. 

STOKES' INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 5. 

Habitat: New Holland, near Sydney. 

The figure of this beautiful longicorn beetle, is drawn from the originalspecimen described by Mr. Newman; it is now in the collection of theBritish Museum. 

. . . 

Microtragus senex. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 7. 

Head ashy, antennae brown. Thorax brownish black, punctured and hirsute, a thick blunt spine from the middle on each side. Elytra at the base inthe middle with a blunt slightly hooked spine, they have two prominentkeels, the external the longest, the surface is deeply punctured, in someparts almost pitted, grey, a black line on sides and extending over theback, so as to form an oblong black spot from the middle to near thebase, a dagger-shaped spot on the suture behind, and a few black spots onthe elevated line. Abdomen beneath greyish. Legs grey, with shortblackish bristles, tarsi narrow not dilated. 

Length about 7 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

This curiously marked longicorn comes near Ceraegidion boisduval. 

. . . 

Paropsis scutifera. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 8. 

Yellow; head vermilion, with two long black spots between and behind theeyes. Elytra yellow with a large squarish spot common to both, outwardlybounded by a dark line, except in front where the yellow of the generalsurface runs into the square. The ground of the spot is red, with ayellow line near the suture on each side; elytra at the base narrowlyedged with black. Antennae, legs, and underside yellow. 

Length 2 1/4 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

Chrysomela (Australica ?) strigipennis. 

INSECTS. PLATE 2, FIGURE 4. 

Brown with a greenish metallic hue. Thorax and elytra margined withobscure yellow, thorax with the anterior angles yellow, a few irregularpunctures in the middle, and the posterior parts thickly dotted withimpressed points; elytra with seven irregular lines of impressed dots, towards the tip they are irregularly dispersed, there are a few irregularyellow streaks near the margins of the elytra; under side blackish brown, tibiae and tarsi yellowish. 

Length about 4 1/4 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

This differs from Australica in having the thorax narrower, and theantennae longer and less thickened at the end. 

. . . 

APPENDIX. 

DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME NEW OR IMPERFECTLY CHARACTERIZED LEPIDOPTERA FROMAUSTRALIA. 

BY EDWARD DOUBLEDAY, F. L. S. ASSISTANT IN THE ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT OF THEBRITISH MUSEUM. 

. . . 

Genus EUSCHEMON, Doubleday. 

Maxillae moderately long. 

Labial Palpi of moderate length, basal joint very short, compressed, curved, clothed with scales and long hairs, second joint about four timesas long as the first, subcylindric, clothed with long scales, third jointclothed with small scales, short, elongate-oval, slenderer than thesecond, the scales of which almost conceal it. 

Antennae elongate, with a fusiform club much hooked at the extremity. 

Eyes large, forehead broad. 

Anterior wings triangular, the outer and inner margins nearly equal, about two-thirds the length of the anterior. Costal nervure two-thirdsthe entire length of the wing; subcostal nervule slightly deflectedtowards the end of the cell, throwing off its first nervule at aboutone-third of its length, the second about the middle of its course, thespace between the origins of the second and third nervules not as long asthat between the first and second, the fourth arising just before the endof the cell: upper discocellular nervule very short, the second discoidalequidistant from the first discoidal and the third median nervule, thedisco-cellular nervules almost atrophied; median nervule throwing off itsfirst nervule not far from the base, the third nervule a little bentwhere the discocellular joins it, radial nervure running nearly parallelwith the inner margin throughout its whole length, reaching the outermargin a little above the anal angle. Posterior wings broad, semi-ovate, costal nervure long, sub-costal terminating in only two nervules, discoidal nervule nearly atrophied; discocellular the same, united withthe third median nervule; cell rather large. Base of these wings in themale with a strong bristle passing behind a strong corneous retinaculum, which arises from the anterior side of the sub-costal nervure. 

Legs rather long; anterior tibiae with a curved spine on the inside, covered by the long scales of the tibiae, anterior tarsi twice the lengthof the tibiae, basal joint longer than the rest combined, second andthird equal; the two combined equal to about two-thirds the length of thefirst, fourth and fifth very short, together about equal to the third. Second pair with the tibiae about two-thirds as long as the tarsi, withnumerous minute spines along their sides and two stout ones at the apex;joints of the tarsi having about the same relative proportions as in theanterior pair. Posterior tibiae and tarsi nearly as in the second pair. Claws of all the tarsi stout, simple. 

. . . 

Euschemon rafflesia. 

Hesp. Rafflesia, McLeay, Appendix to King's Survey of Australia, 463. 

Anterior wings black above, with a transverse macular sulphur-colouredband beyond the middle, and a submarginal one, broadest towards the apex, composed of greenish atoms. Posterior wings with a large ovalsulphur-coloured spot in the cell, separated only by the median nervurefrom a smaller one on the abdominal margin near the base, and followed bya sub-trigonate one divided into three parts by the median nervules. Below, the markings are nearly as above, with the addition of a greenishline along the costa of the anterior wings, bending downwards at itstermination. Posterior wings encircled by a marginal band of the samegreenish colour. 

Head black, orbits of the eyes and a line across the vertex white. Palpibright crimson except the last joint which is black. Antennae black. Thorax black. Abdomen above black, the base and the edges of four of thesegments whitish, last segment bright crimson; below, whitish at thebase, crimson beyond the middle. 

Exp. Alar. 2 un. 9 lin. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

Genus SYNEMON, Doubleday. 

Head round, eyes large, forehead broad. 

Maxillae rather long. 

Labial palpi short, clothed with dense long scales, first joint short, second more than double the length of the first, tapering towards itsextremity, third joint about equal in length to the second, subcylindric, tapering towards the apex. Antennae with a stout, short club, more or less mucronate at the apex, the mucro mostly if not always with atuft of scales at the point, the club sometimes appearing compressed(perhaps from desiccation). 

Thorax stout, anterior wings triangular, the costal nervure terminatingabout the middle of the costa, the sub-costal terminating in fivenervules of which the first and second one are thrown off before thedisco-cellular nervule, the third almost immediately beyond it, thefourth rather further from the third than this is from the second;discoidal nervules almost atrophied at their origin, the first connectedwith the subcostal nervure, the latter with the third median nervule by avery short discocellular; the discoidal nervule itself almost atrophied, running nearly parallel with and immediately above the median; thirdmedian nervule much bent at its origin. Posterior wings sub-ovate, costalnervure long, sub-costal terminating only in two nervules, upperdiscocellular nervule wanting, discoidal nervure distinct and simplethroughout its whole course to the outer margin, with a slight bend atits junction with the short disco-cellular which connects it with themedian nervule: bristle in the male simple, retained by a corneousretinaculum arising from the posterior side of the sub-costal nervure, compound in the female, retained by a bunch of scales arising from theanterior side of the median nervure. 

Anterior legs short, tibiae with a strong sharp spine about the middle, the first joint of the tarsi about the same length as the tibiae, thefour remaining ones equal in length to the first: second pair with thetibiae about two-thirds as long as the tarsi, bi-spinose at theextremity, first joint of the tarsi nearly equal to all the rest:posterior legs with the tibiae about two-thirds the length of the tarsi, bispinose at the apex and furnished also with two spines beyond themiddle, first joint of the tarsi longer than the rest combined. Claws ofall the feet simple, tarsi spiny. 

Abdomen cylindrical, arched in the male, tufted at its extremity, in thefemale tapering to a point. 

There seems to be a slight difference in the structure of the antennae inthis genus, in the first species the club is rounder and less mucronatethan in the two following ones, it seems also destitute of the tuft ofscales at the point. 

. . . 

SYNEMON SOPHIA. 

Hesperia ? sophia, White, Appendix to Grey's Narrative, volume 2, page474, figure 7. 

Anterior wings of the male brown, clouded with grey and fuscous-brown, adark cloud near the base, another at the end of the discoidal cellfollowed by a white dot, the nervures greyish white. Posterior wingsblack, the base with an oval yellow spot, a macular yellow band beyondthe middle, followed by a series of yellow spots. Cilia yellowish towardsthe anal angle. 

Head greyish, antennae black varied with white. Thorax grey. Abdomenblack at the base, whitish beyond. 

Female with the anterior wings nearly black, clouded with light bluishgrey scales, on the margin arranged into a band divided by a series ofblack spots; extremity of the cell with a white dot; beyond the cell ashort macular band commencing on the costa. Posterior wings black, with alarge orange spot near the base, followed by a broad abbreviated, transverse band, commencing on the abdominal margin and succeeded by alarge rounded spot of the same colour; between these and the outer margina series of three or four orange spots. 

Head dark grey, palpi nearly white, antennae black, ringed with white. Abdomen pale fulvous. 

Exp. Alar. 1 un. 10 lines. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

This fine species was first described by Mr. White in the Appendix toCaptain Grey's Narrative. He then expressed the opinion that it wasnearly allied to Castnia and Coronis. The generic characters given abovewill fully justify this view. In fact we can only regard it as theAustralian representative of Castnia. 

The under surface of this species is beautifully varied with black andorange, but I may refer for a more detailed account to the work abovementioned. 

. . . 

Synemon theresa. 

Anterior wings above greyish, the disc varied with longitudinal pale andfuscous dashes, beyond the middle the pale dashes almost form atransverse band, followed by a series of dark spots, margin brownslightly varied with white; cilia grey. Posterior wings fulvous-brown atthe base, marked with a clear fulvous spot, beyond this, fulvous with atransverse macular band, the margin itself black; cilia grey. Below, theanterior wings orange, with the outer margin narrowly black, before theapex are three or four black spots. Posterior wings greyish in the male, in the female nearly as above, but paler. 

Head, thorax, and abdomen grey above, whitish below; antennae black, ringed with white. 

The posterior wings of the male are of a somewhat castaneous hue above, and less clearly marked than those of the female. 

Exp. Alar. 1 un. 6 lin. 

. . . 

Synemon mopsa. 

Anterior wings pale fuscous or brownish, with two white dashes at thebase, the discoidal cell with a white spot, beyond the cell a transversemacular white band, in which are a series of fuscous spots; the marginslightly shaded with pale grey. Posterior wings light chestnut brown, with some fuscescent clouds, towards the outer margin. Below, lightbrown, the anterior wings rather fulvescent, all with some darker clouds. 

Head, thorax, and abdomen grey above, beneath paler: antennae black, ringed with white. 

Exp. Alar. 1 un. 3 lin. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

Agarista leonora. 

All the wings purplish black, anterior with a short bluish white strigaclose to the base, followed at a short distance by a second curved one, united to the former by a vitta of the same colour, extending along theradial nervure; towards the extremity of the discoidal cell is a whitespot, followed by three smaller, not always well defined ones, on thecosta below and a little beyond which are four generally more distinctones, of which the third from the costa is largest, these are followed bya slightly flexuous and bluish white macular striga, beyond which is aseries of from three to five spots of the same colour. Near the analangle is a round bluish spot, preceded, in part surrounded by asemicircle of the same colour, between which and the second transversestriga is an irregular spot, also bluish. Posterior wings with a macularband, not extending to the anterior margin. Cilia of all the wings white, spotted except at the apex of the anterior with black. Below, purplishblack, the base of all the wings slightly marked with bluish, theanterior with a distinct white spot near the extremity of the discoidalcell, and a macular white band beyond the middle, beyond which near thecosta is a bluish spot; posterior wings with a band corresponding to thatabove, connected with outer margin by a less distinct bluish white band. 

Head yellow-white, forehead and vertex black, antenna black. 

Thorax black, with two transverse lines anteriorly and the sidesposteriorly yellowish, legs black, spotted with white, densely clothedwith fulvous hairs at the base of the coxae. Abdomen black, last segmentbright fulvous. 

Female with markings rather more blue than in the male. 

Exp. Alar. 1 un. 9 lin. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

Glaucopis ganymede. 

All the wings black, the anterior with a small diaphanous spot near thebase, below the median nervure; a larger one before the middle extendingfrom the sub-costal to the radial nervure, divided by the median nervureinto two unequal portions, the extremity of the cell marked by acrescent-shaped, metallic blue spot, beyond which are two diaphanousspots, one placed just below the origin of the second sub-costal nervule, the other much larger, divided by the last median nervule. Posteriorwings with a white, partly diaphanous spot, close to the base, and atransverse diaphanous band a little beyond the middle. 

Head black, face and orbits of the eyes white, antennae and palpi black. Thorax black, legs black except the coxae which are white. Abdomencrimson, the first and second segments both above and below, the thirdabove, of a sooty black, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh margined withblack above, anteriorly, eighth entirely crimson. 

Female wanting the small spot near the base of the anterior wings, thethird segment of the abdomen slightly bronzed, coxae black. 

Exp. Alar. 2 unc. 6 lin. 

Habitat: New Holland. 

. . . 

APPENDIX. 

LIST OF FIGURES ON INSECTS PLATE 3. 

Figure 1. 2. Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay). 

a. B. Head of Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay). 

c. * Base of wings of Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay) to show the bristleand retinaculum. 

d. Anterior wings of Euschemon rafflesia (MacLeay). 

Figure 3. Glaucopis ganymede, Doubleday. 

Figure 4. Agarista leonora, Doubleday. 

e. Anterior wing of Agarista leonora, Doubleday. 

Figure 5. Synemon sophia (White). 

Figure 6. Synemon theresa, Doubleday. 

Figure 7. Synemon mopsa, Doubleday. 

f. Palpus of Synemon. 

g. Head and antennae of Synemon (Syn. Sophia. )

h. Head and antennae of Synemon. 

i. K. Head of Synemon. 

l. Base of wings of Synemon, to show the bristle and retinaculum in themale. 

m. Base of wings of Synemon, to show the bristle and retinaculum in thefemale. 

n. Anterior wing of Synemon. 

(*Footnote. The retinaculum is not correctly represented in this figure, it arises from the anterior side of the sub-costal nervure. The neurationof Synemon is not quite correctly given at figure n. These errors were inconsequence of my absence from town when the details on this plate weredrawn. )

END OF VOLUME 1.