[Illustration]

CAMP LIFE IN THE WOODS

AND THE

TRICKS OF TRAPPING

AND

TRAP MAKING

CONTAINING

COMPREHENSIVE HINTS ON CAMP SHELTER, LOG HUTS, BARK SHANTIES, WOODLANDBEDS AND BEDDING, BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, AND VALUABLE SUGGESTIONSON TRAPPERS' FOOD, ETC. WITH EXTENDED CHAPTERS ON THE TRAPPER'SART, CONTAINING ALL THE "TRICKS" AND VALUABLE BAIT RECIPES OF THEPROFESSION; FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF THE STEEL TRAP, ANDFOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF TRAPS OF ALL KINDS; DETAILED INSTRUCTIONSFOR THE CAPTURE OF ALL FUR-BEARING ANIMALS; VALUABLE RECIPES FORTHE CURING AND TANNING OF FUR SKINS, ETC. , ETC. 

BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON

AUTHOR OF "PASTORAL DAYS"

_ILLUSTRATED BY THE AUTHOR_

[Page 1]TO MY BELOVED FRIENDS

MR. AND MRS. F. W. GUNN, KIND INSTRUCTORS, AND PARTICIPANTS

IN THE

BRIGHTEST JOYS OF MY YOUTH, THIS BOOK IS

AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY

THE AUTHOR. 

[Page 3][Illustration]

PREFACE

[Illustration: O]f all the various subjects in the catalogue of sportsand pastimes, there is none more sure of arousing the enthusiasm ofour American boys generally, than that which forms the title ofthis book. Traps and Trapping, together with its kindred branches, always have been and always _will_ be subjects of great interestamong boys, and particularly so to those who live in the country. 

It is a fact to be regretted that we have so few examples of "Boys'Books" published in this country. There are a few English worksof this character, that are very excellent as far as they go, butare nevertheless incomplete and unsatisfactory to the wants ofAmerican boys, dwelling largely on sports which are essentiallyEnglish, and merely touching upon or utterly excluding _other_topics which are of the _utmost_ interest to boys of this country. In no one of these books, so far as the author of the present volumeknows, is the subject of Traps considered to any fair extent, andthose examples which are given, represent only the most commonand universal varieties already known to the general public. 

[Page 4]With these facts in mind, the author has entered with zealous enthusiasmupon the preparation of a work which shall fill this odd and neglectedcorner in literature, and judging from the reminiscences of hisown boyish experiences, he feels certain that in placing such avolume within reach of the public, he supplies a long felt wantin the hearts of his boy-friends throughout the land. 

Far be it from us in the publication of this volume, to be understoodas encouraging the wanton destruction of poor innocent animals. Likeall kindred sports, hunting and fishing for example, the sport ofTrapping may be perverted and carried to a point where it becomessimple cruelty, as is _always_ the case when pursued for the mere_excitement_ it brings. If the poor victims are to serve no useafter their capture, either as food, or in the furnishing of theirplumage or skins for useful purposes, the sport becomes heartlesscruelty, and we do not wish to be understood as encouraging itunder any such circumstances. In its _right_ sense trapping isa delightful, healthful, and legitimate sport, and we commend itto all our boy-readers. 

It shall be the object of the author to produce a thoroughly _practical_volume, presenting as far as possible such examples of the trapkind as any boy, with a moderate degree of ingenuity, could easilyconstruct, and furthermore to illustrate each variety with theutmost plainness, supplemented with the most detailed description. 

With the exception of all "clap-trap, " our volume will embracenearly every known example of the various devices used for thecapture of Bird, Beast, or Fowl, in all countries, simplifying suchas are impracticable on account of their complicated structure, and modifying others to the peculiar adaptation of the AmericanTrapper. 

Devices, which inflict cruelty and prolonged suffering, shall, as far as possible, be excluded, as this is not a necessaryqualification in any trap, and should be guarded against whereverpossible. Following out the suggestion conveyed under the[Page 5]title of "The Trapper, " we shall present full and ample directionsfor baiting traps, selections of ground for setting, and otherhints concerning the trapping of all our principal game and wildanimals, valuable either as food or for their fur. In short, ourbook shall form a complete trapper's guide, embracing all necessaryinformation on the subject, anticipating every want, and furnishingthe most complete and fully illustrated volume on this subjectever presented to the public. In vain did the author of this work, in his younger days, search the book stores and libraries in thehopes of finding such a book, and many are the traps and snareswhich necessity forced him to invent and construct for himself, forwant of just such a volume. Several of these original inventionswill appear in the present work for the first time in book form, and the author can vouch for their excellence, and he might almostsay, their infallibility, for in their perfect state he has neveryet found them to "miss" in a single instance. 

As the writer's mind wanders back to his boyish days, there isone autumn in particular which shines out above all the rest; andthat was when his traps were first set and were the chief sourceof his enjoyment. The adventurous excitement which sped him on inthose daily tramps through the woods, and the buoyant, exhilaratingeffect of the exercise can be realized only by those who have had thesame experience. The hope of success, the fears of disappointment, the continual suspense and wonder which fill the mind of the youngtrapper, all combine to invest this sport with a charm known to noother. Trapping does not consist merely in the manufacture and settingof the various traps. The study of the habits and peculiarities ofthe different game--here becomes a matter of great importance;and the study of natural history under these circumstances affordsa continual source of pleasure and profit. 

Among the most useful, although the most cruel, of inventions usedby the professional trapper are the steel traps; so much so thatthe author would gladly omit them. But as they are of such unfailing[Page 6]action, of such universal efficacy, and in many cases are the onlyones that can be used, any book on trapping would certainly beincomplete without them. The scope of our volume not only embracesthe arts of trapping and trap-making, but extends further into thesubject of the wild life of a trapping campaign, --containing fulldirections for building log cabins, and shanties; boats and canoes;hints on food and cooking utensils; also full directions for thecuring and tanning of fur skins, --in short, a complete repository ofall useful information pertaining to the life and wants of aprofessional trapper. 

In the preparation of the work no pains have been spared to insureclearness in general directions, and every point which would belikely to puzzle the reader has been specially covered by separateillustration. In this particular it stands unique in the list ofboys' books. Every difficulty has been anticipated, and in everyinstance the illustrations will be found thoroughly comprehensiveand complete. That the care and thoroughness which has been displayedthroughout the work, and to which its pages will bear witness, may meet with the appreciation and enthusiastic approval of everyboy-reader throughout the land, is the most earnest hope of

THE AUTHOR. 

[Illustration]

[Page iii][Illustration: CONTENTS]

BOOK I. 

TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 

Introduction. --THE DEAD FALL. --Honey as Bait for Bears. --THE GUNTRAP. --Peculiar Habits of the Puma. --"Baiting" for the Puma. --Cautionrequired in Setting the Gun Trap. --Several Guns used. --DifferentModes of Setting. --Various animals to which the Gun Trap isadapted. --THE BOW TRAP. --Vane and Barb for Arrows. --Best Wood forBow. --A Second Example of Bow Trap. --Arrows Barbed and Poisoned. --THEDOWN FALL; or Hippopotamus Trap. --The terrible Harpoon used bythe African Trapper. --Different Modes of Setting the DownFall. --Modification of the Down Fall for small animals. --THE BEARTRAP. --Various Methods of Setting. --Honey as Bait for Bear. --Baitfor Puma. --THE PITFALL. --Use of the Trap in Asia as a means ofdefence against the Tiger. --Disposition of the Bait. --Wonderfulagility of the Puma. --Niceties required in the construction ofthe Pitfall. --THE LOG COOP TRAP. --Various animals for which itis adapted. --Different Modes of Setting. --THE CORRALL OR HOPO ofAfrica. --Its Construction and Appalling Effects. --THE NET TRAP. --ItsUse in the Capture of the Lion and the Tiger. --American animals towhich it may be adapted. --Two Methods of Setting. --BIRD LIME. --ItsUse for the Capture of the Lion and Tiger. 

[Page iv]BOOK II. 

SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. 

General Remarks. --Requisite Materials for Snaring. --THE QUAILSNARE. --"Sucker Wire" Nooses. --Six Quail caught at a time. --HOOPNOOSES. --HORSE HAIR NOOSES. --HEDGE NOOSES. --Peculiarities of theGrouse. --Selection of Ground. --THE TRIANGLE TREE SNARE. --A Hawkcaptured by the device. --The Wire Noose, as arranged for the captureof the Woodchuck, Muskrat, and House Rat. --THE TWITCH-UP. --Selectionof Ground for Setting. --Various Modes of Constructing the Traps. --THEPOACHERS' SNARE. --Its portability. --THE PORTABLE SNARE. --Its PeculiarAdvantages. --The "Simplest" Snare. --The valuable principle on whichit is Constructed. --Its Portability. --Various Adaptations of thePrinciple. --THE QUAIL SNARE. --Its ample capabilities ofCapture. --Peculiarities of the Quail. --Successful Baits. --THE BOXSNARE. --Modification in a very small scale. --THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. --TheAnimals for which it is Adapted. --GROUND SNARES. --THE OLD-FASHIONEDSPINGLE. --THE IMPROVED SPINGLE. --Objections to Ground Snares. --THEFIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE. --THE PLATFORM SNARE. 

BOOK III. 

TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 

THE SIEVE TRAP. --THE BRICK TRAP. --THE COOP TRAP--Improved Methodof Setting. --Defects of the old style. --THE BAT FOWLING NET. --ItsUse in England. --How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers. --THECLAP NET. --Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries. --Decoy Birds. --The"Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy. --Wonderful Skill attained inthe Use of the Bird Whistle. --Selection of Trapping Ground. --THEBIRD WHISTLE Described. --Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities. --THEWILD GOOSE TRAP. --Its Extensive Use in the Northern Cold Regionsfor the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan. --Tame Goose Used asDecoys. --Gravel as Bait. --THE TRAP CAGE. --A Favorite Trap amongBird Catchers. --Call Birds. --THE SPRING NET TRAP. --Rubber Elasticas Spring Power. --A SIMPLER NET TRAP. --Common Faults in many BirdTraps. --Complicated Construction as Unnecessary Feature. --Requisitesof a good Bird Trap. --Hints on Simple Mechanism. --Different Modesof Constructing Hinge. --Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power. --Mannerof Tempering Spring. --THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. --A Second Method ofConstructing Platform. --THE BOX OWL TRAP. --Ventilation a DesirableFeature in all Box Traps. --Tin Catch for Securing Cover inPlace. --Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds. --Modification ofPerch. --Baiting for the Owl. --Locality for Setting. --The Owl inCaptivity. --Its Food. --Hints on the Care of the Bird. --THE BOXBIRD TRAP. --Cigar Box Used as a Trap. --THE PENDANT BOXTRAP. --Ventilation. --Simple Mechanism. --Care in Construction ofBearings. --THE HAWK TRAP. --A "Yankee" Invention. --Stiff-PointedWires Effectually Use in the Capture of the Hawk. --Owl also Capturedby the Same Device. --THE WILD DUCK NET. --Its Use in ChesapeakeBay. --Manner of Constructing the Net. --Decoy Ducks. --Bait for theDucks. --THE HOOK TRAP. --Its cruel Mode of Capture. --Peculiar Baitfor Ducks. --THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP. --Its Successful Use in the Captureof the Crow. --Shrewdness of the Crow. --Strange antics of a Crow whenCaptured in the Trap. --Bird Lime the Secret of its Success. --WonderfulTenacity of the Cap. --Different Modes of Setting. --BIRD LIMEDescribed. --Its astonishing "Sticky" Qualities. --The Bird Limeof the Trade. --Various "Home-Made" Recipes. --Manner of Using BirdLime. --Limed Twigs. --The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection withBird Lime. --Bird Lime used in the Capture of the Humming Bird. --AFlower Converted into a Trap. --Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime. --ItsReady Removal from the Feathers. --Delicate Organization of theHumming Bird. --Killed by Fright. --Use of its Plumage. --Snares for theHumming Bird. --Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture. --Killedby Concussion. --Disabled by a Stream of Water. 

[Page v]BOOK IV. 

MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 

THE COMMON BOX TRAP. --Two Modes of Setting. --Animals for which itis Adapted. --A Modification of the Trap. --ANOTHER BOX TRAP. --THEFIGURE FOUR TRAP. --Its Advantages. --THE DOUBLE ENDER. --A FavoriteTrap in New England. --Simplicity of Construction. --The Rabbit'sFondness for Salt. --Its Use as a Bait. --THE SELF SETTING TRAP. --Animalsfor which it is adapted. --THE DEAD FALL. --Various Methods ofConstruction. --Animals for which it is usually Set. --RemarkableCunning of some Animals. --The Precautions which it Necessitates. --Baitfor the Muskrat. --Various Baits for the Mink. --Skunk Baits. --A FoxEntrapped by a Dead Fall. --Slight Modification in the Arrangementof Pieces. --Live Duck used as Bait. --Another Arrangement for theDead Fall. --Trap Sprung by the Foot of the Animal. --THE FIGURE FOURTRAP. --Applied to the Dead Fall. --THE GAROTTE. --Its Singular Modeof Capture. --Its Common Victims. --THE BOW TRAP. --An oddity of theTrap Kind. --Its Singular mechanism. --THE MOLE TRAP. --A Much-neededContrivance. --Subterranean Mode of Setting. --Its Unfailing Success. --AFISH TRAP. --A Section of Stove Pipe used as a Trap. --Its VariousVictims. --Adjustment of the Bait. --Curious Mode of Capture. 

BOOK V. 

HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 

A Chapter Dedicated to Pestered Housekeepers. --The Domestic Catas a Household Trap. --The Rat. --Its Proverbial Shrewdness andCunning. --THE BARREL TRAP. --Its unlimited Capabilities of Capture--OtherAdvantages. --"Baiting" for Rats. --A Second Form of Barrel Trap. --Variousother Devices adapted to the capture of the Rat. --The Steel Trap. --Hintson Setting. --Necessary Precautions. --THE BOX DEAD FALL. --THE BOARDFLAP. --THE BOX PIT FALL. --Animals for which it may be set. --ItsExtensive Capabilities of Capture. --Its Self-Setting Qualities. --Theprinciple Utilized for the Capture of the Muskrat. --THE CAGE TRAP. --THEJAR TRAP. --A Preserve Jar Converted into a Mouse Trap. --Its CompleteSuccess. --BOWL TRAPS. --Two Methods. --FLY PAPER. --Recipe for Making. --FLYTRAP. 

BOOK VI. 

STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 

General Remarks. --Advantages of the Steel Trap. --Its extensive use inthe business of Trapping. --Hints on the Selection of Traps. --REQUISITESOF A GOOD STEEL TRAP. --The Newhouse Trap. --Various sizes. --RatTrap. --Muskrat Trap. --Mink Trap. --Fox Trap. --Otter Trap. --BeaverTrap. --"Great Bear Tamer. "--Small Bear Trap. --HINTS ON BAITINGTHE STEEL TRAP. --The Staked Pen. --Old Method of Baiting. --ItsObjections. --Advantages of the New Method. --THE SPRING POLE. --ItsService to the Trapper. --THE SLIDING POLE. --Advantages of its Usein the Capture of Aquatic Animals. --THE CLOG. --Objections againstSecuring the Steel Trap to a Stake. --Method of Attaching the Clog. --THEGRAPPLING IRON. --THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING. --Best condition for Furs. --THEART OF TRAPPING. --Antiquity of the Sport. --Necessary Qualificationsfor Successful Trapping. --The Study of Natural History a sourceof pleasure and profit. --The Professional Trapper's most serious[Page vi]Obstacles. --Marvellous Cunning of many Animals. --Necessity of theStudy of their Habits. --"Practical Natural History. "--Trapping WithoutBait. --Run-ways or By-paths. --How Utilized by the Trapper. --HowDetected. --Favorable Localities for the Setting of the SteelTrap. --Natural Advantages. --Entrapping animals through their Senseof Smell. --Remarkable Power of Scent Baits. --Their great valuein the Capture of the Beaver. --Caution in Handling the SteelTrap. --Effect of the Touch of the Hand. --Buckskin Gloves a NecessaryRequisite. --MEDICINES, OR SCENT BAITS. --Their Great Importance in theArt of Trapping. --CASTOREUM OR BARKSTONE. --How Obtained. --CastoreumComposition. --Recipe for Making. --How Used. --MUSK--ASSAFOETIDA. --OILOF RHODIUM. --FISH OIL. --Its General Use in the Capture of AquaticAnimals. --Valuable Recipe for its Manufacture. --OIL OF SKUNK. --HowObtained. --How Eradicated from Hands or Clothing. --OIL OF AMBER. --OILOF AMBERGRIS. --OIL OF ANISE. --Its General Use as a "UniversalMedicine. "--SWEET FENNEL. --CUMMIN--FENUGREEK--LAVENDER--COMPOUNDMEDICINE--THE TRAIL--Its Object and Value. --Various Modes ofMaking. --HOW TO TRAP. --General Remarks. --THE FOX. --Its ScientificClassification. --The Various American Species. --The Red Fox. --TheCross Fox. --Why so Named. --The Black or Silver Fox. --The GreatValue of its Fur. --The Prairie Fox. --The Kit or Swift Fox. --TheGray Fox. --Similarity in the General Characteristics of the VariousSpecies. --Food of the Fox. --Its Home. --Its consummate Craft. --Instancesof its Cunning. --Baffling the Hounds. --How to Trap the Fox. --Preparationof the Trap. --Adverse Effect of Human Scent. --Necessity of handling Trapwith Gloves. --The "Bed. "--"Baiting" the Bed Necessary. --Precautions inSetting the Trap. --The "Tricks of the Trapper" Illustrated. --How toProceed in case of Non-Success. --The Scent-Baits Utilized. --VariousModes of Setting the Trap. --The Baits Commonly Used. --The Dead Fallas a Means of Capture. --Common Mode of Skinning the Fox. --Directionsfor Stretching Skin. --THE WOLF. --The Various Species. --FierceCharacteristics of the Wolf. --Its Terrible Inroads among Herds andFlocks. --The Gray Wolf. --The Coyote or Common Prairie Wolf. --TheTexan Wolf. --Home of the Wolf. --Number of Young. --Cunning of theWolf. --Caution Required in Trapping. --How to Trap the Wolf. --Preparationof Trap. --Various Ways of Setting the Trap. --Use of the Trail andScent Baits. --"Playing Possum. "--The Dead Fall and "Twitch-up"as Wolf Traps. --Directions for Skinning the Wolf and Stretchingthe Pelt. --THE PUMA. --Its Scientific Classification. --Its Lifeand Habits. --Its Wonderful Agility. --Its Skill as an Angler. --ItsStealth. --Various Traps Used in the Capture of the Puma. --The GunTrap. --The Bow Trap. --The Dead Fall. --Trap for Taking the AnimalAlive. --Log Coop Trap. --The Pit Fall. --Bait for the Puma. --The SteelTrap. --Common Mode of Setting. --Selection of Locality for Trapping. --Howto Skin the Puma. --Directions for Stretching the Pelt. --THE CANADALYNX. --Description of the Animal. --Its Life and Habits. --Its Food. --ItsPeculiar Appearance when Running. --Easily Killed. --The Dead Fall asa Lynx Trap. --Peculiar Manner of Construction for the Purpose. --TheGun Trap. --The Bow Trap. --The Twitch-up. --Young of the Lynx. --Valueof its Fur. --The Steel Trap. --Various Methods of Setting. --Directionsfor Skinning the Animal and Stretching the Pelt. --THE WILD CAT. --ItsResemblance to the Domestic Species. --Its Strange Appetite. --ItsHome. --Number of Young. --Haunts of the Wild Cat. --Its NocturnalMarauding expeditions. --Its Lack of Cunning. --How to Trap the WildCat. --An Entire Colony Captured. --Ferocity of the Wild Cat. --TheTwitch-up. --Its Common Use in the Capture of the Wild Cat. --OtherSuccessful Traps. --Various Baits for the Wild Cat. --Directionsfor Skinning the Animal, and Stretching the Pelt. --THE BEAR. --TheVarious American Species. --The Grizzly. --Its Enormous Size andPower. --Its Terrible Fury. --Description of the Animal. --Food of theGrizzly. --The Black Bear or Musquaw. --Its General Description. --BearHunting. --Danger of the Sport. --Food of the Bear. --Its Fondness forPigs. --Honey Its Special Delight. --The Cubs. --The Flesh of theBear as Food. --"Bears' Grease. "--Hibernation of the Bear. --Trapsfor the Bear. --The Dead[Page vii]Fall. --Pit-fall. --Giant Coop. --Gun Trap. --The Steel Trap. --TheClog and Grappling-Iron. --Their Advantages. --How to Trap theBear. --Various Methods of Adjusting Traps. --Natural Advantages. --Honeyas Bait. --Other Baits. --Scent Baits. --Skinning the Bear. --Directionsfor Stretching the Pelt. --THE RACCOON. --Classification--Cunningand Stealth of the Animal. --Characteristic Features. --The "CoonChase. "--How the Raccoon is Hunted. --The "Tree'd Coon. "--VariedAccomplishments of the Raccoon. --Its Home and Family. --The "Coon"as a Pet. --Its Cunning Ways. --Its Extensive Bill of Fare. --Life andHabits of the Raccoon. --Remarkable Imprint of its Paw. --Season forTrapping the Coon. --How to Trap the Coon. --Various Modes of Settingthe Trap. --Use of the "medicines" or "Scent Baits. "--Other Traps forthe Animal. --Directions for Removing the Skin, and Stretching thePelt. --THE BADGER. --Its Peculiar Markings. --Use of the Hair. --Nest ofthe Badger. --Number of Young. --Food of the Animal. --Its RemarkableFondness for Honey. --Its Cunning. --Remarkable Instincts. --ItsShrewdness. --How to Trap the Badger. --Various Baits. --Use of"Medicine. "--Capture of the Animal by Flooding its Burrow. --Howto Skin the Badger. --Directions for Stretching the Pelt. --THEBEAVER. --Description of the Animal. --Its Nature and Habits. --TheBeaver Village. --The "Lodges, " or Beaver Houses. --RemarkableConstruction of the Huts. --The Dam of the Beaver. --Wonderful Skillshown in its Construction. --Nocturnal Habits of the Beaver. --RemarkableEngineering Instincts of the Animal. --How the Beaver Cuts Timber. --Howthe Dam is Constructed. --The Formation of "Reefs. "--The Tail ofthe Beaver as a Means of Transportation. --Subterranean Passageto the Huts. --How Beavers are Hunted. --Young of the Beaver. --Howto Trap the Beaver. --The Necessary Precautions. --Castoreum or BarkStone. --Its Great Value in the Capture of the Beaver. --VariousMethods of Setting the Trap. --How to Apply the Castoreum. --Use ofthe Sliding Pole. --Food of the Beaver. --Directions for Skinning theAnimal and Stretching the Pelt. --THE MUSK-RAT. --General Descriptionof the Animal. --Its Beaver-like Huts. --Its Nocturnal Habits. --ItsFood. --The Flesh of the Musk-rat as an Article of Diet. --Descriptionof the Hut. --Extensive Family of the Musk-Rat. --Its Home. --How theMusk-Rat swims beneath Unbroken Ice. --How it is Killed by beingDriven Away from its Breath. --Spearing the Musk-Rat. --Constructionof the Spear. --How to Trap the Musk-Rat. --Use of the SlidingPole. --Various Modes of Setting Trap. --The Spring Pole. --ScentBaits. --Various Devices for Capturing the Musk-Rat. --TheBarrel-Trap. --Remarkable Success of the Trap. --The Trail. --Skinningthe Musk-Rat. --How to Stretch the Pelt. --THE OTTER. --Descriptionof the Animal. --Beauty of its Fur. --How the "Otter Fur" of Fashionis Prepared. --Food of the Otter. --Its Natural Endowments forSwimming. --Habitation of the Otter. --Its Nest and Young. --The Trackor "Seal" of the animal. --How the Otter is Hunted. --Its Fiercenesswhen Attacked. --The Otter as a Pet. --Fishing for its Master. --TheOtter "Slide. "--How Utilized by the Trapper. --Playfulness of theOtter. --How the Animal is Trapped. --Various Modes of Setting Trap. --TheSliding Pole. --The Spring Pole. --Scent Baits. --How Applied. --NecessaryPrecautions. --How to Skin the Otter. --Directions for Stretching thePelt. --THE MINK. --Its Form and Color. --Value of the Fur. --Habitsof the Animal. --Its Diet. --Its Perpetual Greed. --Ease with which itmay be Trapped. --Habitation of the Mink. --Its Nest and Young. --Howto Trap the Mink. --Various Methods of Setting the Trap. --Baits. --TheSliding Pole. --"Medicine. "--The Runways of the Mink. --How Utilizedin Trapping. --The Trail. --Various Traps Used in the Capture of theMink. --How to Skin the Animal. --THE PINE MARTEN. --Description ofthe Animal. --Its Natural Characteristics. --Its Nocturnal Habits. --ItsWonderful Stealth and Activity. --Its "Bill of Fare. "--Its Strange modeof Seizing Prey. --The Marten as a Pet. --Its Agreeable Odor. --VariousTraps Used in the Capture of the Marten. --Baits for the Marten. --TheSteel Trap. --Several Modes of Setting. --Directions for Skinningthe Animal. --THE FISHER. --Its Form and Color. --Its Habitation andYoung. --How the Animal is Trapped. --Various Methods. --The SpringPole. --Baits for the Fisher. --Principal Devices Used in itsCapture. --The Skin. --How[Page viii]Removed and Stretched. --THE SKUNK. --Its Fetid Stench. --Origin ofthe Odor. --Its Effect on Man and Beast. --"Premonitory Symptoms"of Attack. --Acrid Qualities of the Secretion. --Its Terrible Effecton the Eyes. --Interesting Adventure with a Skunk. --"Appearances areoften Deceitful. "--The Skunk as a Pet. --Color of the Animal. --Habitsof the Animal. --Its Food. --Its Young. --"Alaska Sable. "--How toTrap the Skunk. --Various Traps Used. --The Steel Trap. --DifferentModes of Setting. --Baits. --The Dead Fall. --Modifications in itsConstruction. --The Twitch-up. --Its Peculiar Advantages for theCapture of the Skunk. --Chloride of Lime as Antidote. --Method ofEradicating the Odor from the Clothing. --Directions for Removing andStretching the Skin. --THE WOLVERINE. --Its Desperate Fierceness andvoracity. --Its General Characteristics. --Its Form and Color. --Foodof the Wolverine. --Its Trap-Robbing Propensities. --How to Trap theWolverine. --Baits. --Use of the "Medicine. "--The Gun Trap and DeadFall. --The Steel Trap. --Various Modes of Setting. --Home and Youngof the Animal. --How the Skin should be Removed and Stretched. --THEOPOSSUM. --Description of the Animal. --Its Nature and Habits. --ItsHome. --Remarkable Mode of Carrying its Young. --Nocturnal Habits ofthe Animal. --Its Food. --Its Especial Fondness for Persimmons. --ItsRemarkable Tenacity as a Climber. --"Playing Possum. "--How the Opossumis Hunted. --How Trapped. --Various Devices Used in its Capture. --ScentBaits. --How the Skin is Removed and Stretched. --THE RABBIT. --Wide-spreadDistribution of the Various Species. --Their Remarkable Powers ofSpeed. --Nest of the Rabbit. --Its Prolific Offspring. --Food of theRabbit. --Its Enemies. --Various Devices Used in Trapping theAnimal. --Necessary Precautions in Skinning the Rabbit. --THEWOODCHUCK. --Description of the Animal. --Its Habits. --Its Burrows. --ItsFood. --Toughness of the Skin. --Its Use. --Nest of the Animal. --TheWoodchuck as Food. --How the Animal is Trapped. --The Steel Trap. --TheSpring Pole. --The Twitch-up. --How the Woodchuck is "Drowned Out. "--TheTurtle as a Ferret. --Smoking the Burrows. --Directions for Skinningthe Animal. --THE GOPHER. --Its Burrows. --Its Food. --Remarkable CheekPouches of the Animal. --Their Use. --How to Trap the Animal. --Howthe Skin is Removed. --THE MOLE. --Its Varied Accomplishments. --ItsRemarkable Dwellings. --Complicated Structure of the Habitation. --TheFury and Voracity of the Mole. --Peculiarities of Its Fur. --A Waistcoatof Mole Skins. --Odor of the Mole. --Mole Traps. --Various Species of theMole. --The Mole of the Cape of Good Hope. --Marvellous Beauty of ItsFur. --SQUIRRELS. --Their General Peculiarities of Form and Habit. --TheirFood. --Their Provident Instincts. --"Nutting" in Midwinter. --TheNest of the Squirrel. --Burrowing Squirrels. --The Various AmericanSpecies. --The Grey Squirrel. --The Chipmunk. --The Chickaree. --TheFlying Squirrel, &c. --How Squirrels are Trapped. --Various TrapsUsed in their Capture. --Removal of Skin. --THE DEER. --Difficultyof Hunting the Animal in Dry Seasons. --Various American Speciesof the Deer. --How the Deer is Trapped. --Peculiar Construction ofthe Trap. --Scent Bait for the Deer. --Various Methods of Settingthe Trap. --Violence of the Deer when Trapped. --The Clog. --DeadFalls. --Food of the Deer. --Deer "Yards. "--Natural Enemies of theDeer. --How the Deer is Hunted. --"Still Hunting. "--The Deer's AcuteSense of Smell. --How to Detect the Direction of the Wind. --NaturalHabits of the Deer. --"Night Hunting. "--Luminosity of the Eyes of theDeer at Night. --Hunting the deer with dogs. --"Deer Licks. "--How Saltis used in Hunting the Deer. --Hunting from a Scaffolding. --PeculiarSight of the Deer. --"Salt Licks" used in Night Hunting. --HeadLantern. --How made. --How used. --The fiery Eyes of the Deer. --"FoxFire" or Phosphorescent wood. --How used by the Hunter. --Seasonsfor Deer Hunting. --How to skin the Deer. --THE MOOSE. --Descriptionof the animal. --Immense size of its Horns. --Moose yards. --Huntedon Snow shoes. --The dangers of Moose Hunting. --Exquisite sense ofSmell. --How the Moose is Trapped. --Directions for removing theSkin of the Animal. --ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. --Description of theAnimal. --Its enormous Horns. --Habits of the creature. --Its flesh asFood. --How the Animal is Trapped. --THE BUFFALO. --Its Habits. --ItsFood. --Buffalo-grass. --How the Animal is Hunted and Trapped. --Buffalo[Page ix]flesh as Food. --Buffalo skins. --THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. --Descriptionof the Animal. --Peculiarity of Horn. --How the creature is Huntedand Destroyed by the Indians. --Remarkable sense of Smell of theAnimal. --Its Beauty and grace. --Flesh of the Antelope a Food. --Howthe Animal is Trapped. --Various Traps used in their Capture. --TheDead-fall. --Pit-fall. --How to remove the Hide of the Animal. --SHOOTINGAND POISONING. --"Shot furs. "--"Poisoned furs. "--"Trapped furs. "--Theirrelative Value in the Fur Market. --Effect of grazing shot onfur. --Effect of Poison on Fur. --Remarks on the use ofPoison. --Strychnine. --Poisoning Wolves. --Recipe for mixing thePoison. --Poisoning the Bear. --How the Dose is Prepared. 

BOOK VII. 

CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Introductory Remarks. --"Amateur Trapping. "--PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. --Selectionof Trapping-ground. --Advantages of a Watered District. --Labor oftransportation lightened by Boating. --Lakes, Ponds and Streams. --TheAdirondacks and Alleghanies. --Remarks on the "Home Shanty. "--Selectionof Site for building. --Value of a good Axe. --Remarks on the BarkShanty. --Its value in case of Storms. --Wise fore-sight. --Remarks onthe Indian Birch-bark Canoe. --Dug-out and Bateau. --Commencement ofTrapping Season. --Advantages of preliminary preparation. --Extensiveroute of the Professional Trapper. --Sixty pounds of PersonalLuggage. --How the traps and provisions are distributed among theTrapping lines. --Use of the "Home Shanty. "--"Keeping Shanty. "--Necessityof its being Guarded. --Wolves and Bears as thieves. --Steel Trapsconsidered. --Number used in a Professional Campaign. --Number foran Amateur Campaign. --Their Probable Cost. --The average size ofTrap. --Dead-falls, Twitchups, &c. , considered. --Requisite Tools fora Campaign. --A "House-wife" a valuable necessity. --"Cleanliness nextto Godliness. "--The Trappers' Light. --Comparative value of Lanternsand Candles. --The Trappers' Personal outfit. --The jack-knife. --ThePocket-Compass. --Necessity of preparing for Emergencies. --Shotguns and Rifles. --Both combined in the same weapon. --Oil for FireArms. --Fat of the Grouse Used on Fire Arms. --Fishing tackle. --TheTrappers' portable stove. --The Stove versus The Open Fire. --TheTrapper's Clothing. --The Material and Color. --Boots. --High-toppedBoots. --Short Boots. --Their Relative Qualities. --Waterproof BootDressing. --Recipe. --The Trapping Season. --Hints on Trapping-lines. --The"Wheel" plan. --Mode of following the lines. --"Trap Robbers" or"Poachers. "--How to guard against them. --Hiding furs. --How to storeTraps from Season to Season. --Gnats and Mosquitoes. --The "Smudge. "--Howmade. --FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. --"Roughing it. "--"A chance Chipfor a Frying Pan. "--A "happy medium" between two extremes. --Cosyand Comfortable living on a Campaign. --Portable Food. --CombinedNutriment and lightness in weight to be desired. --The Trappers'Culinary Outfit. --Indian meal as Food. --The Trappers' "Staff ofLife. "--Wheat flour. --Salt Pork. --Seasoning. --Pork Fritters aluxury. --Cooking Utensils. --The "Telescope" drinking cup. --Recipefor making Pork Fritters. --"Chop Sticks" à la "Chinee. "--A FlatChip as a Plate. --Boiled Mush. --Old "Stand by. "--Recipe. --FriedMush. --Indian meal Cakes. --Recipe. --Johnny Cake. --Recipe. --HoeCakes. --Recipe. --Fresh fish. --How to Cook fish in a most Deliciousmanner. --Prof. Blot, and Delmonico, out-done. --The "NE PLUS ULTRA" ofdelicacies. --All the sweet Juices of the Fish preserved. --Disadvantagesof the ordinary method of cooking. --Partridge, Duck, Quail, Cookeddeliciously. --Roasting unrivalled!--Hints on Broiling. --An extemporizedSpider or Toaster. --Roasting on a spit. --Venison, Bear, and Moose Meatbroiled in the best style. --Venison cutlets. --The Camp fire. --Usual mode[Page x]of building Fire. --How the Kettle is suspended. --"Luxuries"considered. --The Knapsack a desirable Acquisition. --Matches. --The BottleMatch-safe. --Waterproof Matches. --How made. --Lucifer Matches. --Recipefor Waterproof preparation. --The Pocket Sun Glass. --A necessary adjunctto a Trapper's Outfit. --Its Advantages in case of Emergency. --"Touchwood" or "Punk Tinder, " valuable in lighting fires. --How to light Fireswithout matches or Sun glass. --How to light a fire without Matches, Sun Glass, Powder, or Percussion Caps. --A last Resort. --Matches bestin the long run. --The Portable Camp Stove described. --Its accompanyingFurniture. --The Combination Camp-knife. --Hint on Provisions. --Potatoesas food. --Beans. --"Self raising" Wheat flour. --Light Bread, Biscuitand Pancakes in Camp. --Various accessories. --Olive Oil for purposeof Frying. --Pork. --Indian meal. --Crackers. --Wheaten Grits. --Rice andOatmeal. --Tea and Coffee. --Soups. --Liebig's Extract of Beef. --CannedVegetables. --Lemonade. --Waterproof bags for provisions. --Paintedbags. --Caution!--Waterproof preparation. --Air-tight jars forButter. --Knapsack or Shoulder Basket. --Venison as food. --To preservethe overplus of meat. --"Jerked Venison" Recipe and Process. --Mooseand Bear meat and Fish, similarly prepared. --How to protect provisionsfrom Wolves. --The Moufflon and Prong-horn as food. --"Small game, "Squirrels, Rabbits, and Woodchucks. --"Skunk Meat" as a delicacy. --TheBuffalo as food. --Grouse, the universal Food of Trappers andHunters. --Various species of Grouse. --The Sage Cock. --ThePtarmigan. --How they are trapped by the Indians in the Hudson'sBay Country. --Waterfowl. --Sea and Inland Ducks. --Various species ofDuck. --Mallard. --Muscovy. --Wigeon. --Merganser. --Canvass Back. --Teal, &c. --Wild Geese. --Fish as food. --Angling and Spearing. --SalmonSpearing in the North. --Description of the Salmon Spear used bythe Indians. --Salmon Spearing at night. --Requisites of a goodSpearsman. --Fishing through the Ice. --Cow's udder and Hogs liver asBait. --Other Baits. --Assafoetida and Sweet Cicely as fish Baits. --Troutfishing with Tip-up's. --Pickerel fishing in Winter. --Pickerel Spearingthrough the Ice. --The Box Hut. --The "Fish Lantern" or Fish Trap. --FishAttracted by light. --Light as Bait. --How the Fish Lantern is made andused. --THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER. --Introductory remarks. --The Perils ofa Life in the Wilderness. --A Shelter of some form a Necessity. --TheLog Shanty. --Full directions for building. --Ingenious manner ofconstructing roof. --How the Chimney is built. --Spacious interior ofthe Shanty. --THE BARK SHANTY. --A Temporary structure. --Full directionsfor its construction. --Selection of building site. --TENTS. --Advantagesof their use. --Various kinds of Tents. --The House Tent. --The FlyTent. --The Shelter Tent. --Directions for making the Tent. --TentCloth. --How to render tents Water and Fire-resistant. --Valuablerecipe. --BEDS AND BEDDING. --Perfect rest and comfort to the tiredTrapper. --A portable Spring bed for the woods. --A Hammock bed. --BedClothes. --The Canton Flannel Bag. --Hammocks. --TENT CARPETING. --Spruceand Hemlock boughs as bedding. --How to cover the ground evenly. --TheRubber Blanket. 

BOOK VIII. 

THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. 

Warning to the Novice. --Winged Cannibals of the Woods. --INSECTOINTMENTS. --Mosquitoes and Gnats. --Their aversion to the scentof Pennyroyal. --Pennyroyal Ointment. --Recipe. --Mutton tallowOintment. --Tar and Sweet Oil Liniment. --Recipe. --Its effect on theComplexion. --Invasions of Insects by night. --Their pertinacity andseverity. --The experience of our Adirondack guide. --The bloodthirstypropensities of the Mosquito admirably depicted. --The "Smudge" Smokeversus Insect Bites. --"Punkeys" and "Midgets. "--Their terriblevoracity. --Painful effects of their Bites. --Pennyroyal an effectiveAntidote. --Depraved[Page xi]appetite of the mosquito. --A Warning to the Intemperate. --Use and abuseof Alcohol. --A Popular error corrected. --A substitute for Whiskey andBrandy. --Red Pepper Tea. --Its great value as a remedy in Illness. --TheMosquitoes' favorite Victim. --Result of the bite of the insect. --TheMosquito Head-Net. --Directions for making the Net. --Netting attachmentfor the Hat. --Portable Sun Shade or Hat brim. --Netting attachmentfor the Hat brim. --BOAT BUILDING. --A Boat of some kind a necessityto the Trapper. --The "Dug-Out" or Log-Canoe. --Requisite Tools forits Manufacture. --Selection of the Log. --Directions for making theboat. --Remarkable thinness to which they may be reduced. --Lightnessof the boat. --How to gauge the thickness. --How to stop leaks. --THEINDIAN OR BIRCH BARK CANOE. --The Indian as a Canoe-maker. --Hisremarkable skill. --Perfection of the Indian made Canoe. --Descriptionof the Canoe. --Capacity of the various sizes. --How to construct aBark Canoe. --Selection of Bark. --How to prevent Leaks. --Materialused by the Indians in sewing the Bark. --Advantages of the BirchBark Canoe. --Basswood, Hemlock, and Spruce Bark Canoes. --A LIGHTHOME-MADE BOAT. --Selection of Boards. --Directions for making theBoat. --Caulking the seams. --Value of Pitch for waterproofingpurposes. --How it should be applied. --THE SCOW. --How to construct theordinary Flat-bottomed Boat. --The Mud-stick. --SNOW SHOES. --A necessityfor winter travel. --The "Snow Shoe Race. "--The mysteries of a SnowShoe. --"Taming the Snow Shoe. "--How to make the Snow Shoe. --ComplicatedNet-work. --Two methods of attaching the Net-work. --How the SnowShoe is worn. --THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. --Its value to theTrapper. --Winter Coasting. --Great sport with the Toboggan. --How tomake a Toboggan. --Selection of Boards. --How the Sledge is used. --CURINGSKINS. --Importance of Curing Skins properly. --Valuable hints on SkinningAnimals. --How to dry Skins. --How to dress Skins for Market. --Astringentpreparations. --Recipe. --STRETCHERS. --How skins are stretched. --The BoardStretcher. --How it is made and used. --The Wedge Stretcher. --How madeand used. --The Bow Stretcher. --The Hoop Stretcher. --TANNING SKINS. --ToTan with the hair on. --Preparation of Skin for Tanning. --TanningMixture. --Recipe. --Second Mixture. --Recipe. --Third Mixture andRecipe. --How the Skin is softened and finished. --HOW TO TAN MINKAND MUSKRAT SKINS. --Preparation of Skin. --Tanning Mixtures. --VariousRecipes. --"Fleshing. "--The Fleshing-knife. --Substitute for theFleshing-knife. --HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF THE BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN. --Tanning Mixtures. --How to soften the Skin. --SimpleTanned Skin. --Recipe for removing the fur. --How to finish theSkin. --OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. --Somebits of History in connection with Furs. --Ancient use of Furs. --Fursa medium of Exchange. --Furs and Fashion. --Extravagance in FurCostume. --Choice Furs as Badges of Rank. --Their use restricted toRoyal Families. --The Early Fur Trade of Europe. --A Tribute paidin Furs. --Early History of the Fur Trade in America. --Origin ofthe Hudson's Bay Company. --Hostility of the French CanadianTraders. --Establishment of the North West Company. --Competition andWar. --Consolidation of the two Companies. --Great sales of the Hudson'sBay Company. --Importance of the Fur Trade. --Cities founded by theenterprise of the Trapper. --St. Paul. --Montreal and Mackinaw. --Fortunesbuilt up on Fur Traffic. --John Jacob Astor. --Mink and MuskratSkins. --Their extensive use in America. --Estimated value of theannual yield of Raw Furs throughout the World. --Classificationof Furs by American Dealers. --"Home" Furs. --"Shipping" Furs. --Tableof Sales of Hudson's Bay Company, in 1873. --March Sale. --SeptemberSale. --Price according to Quality. --Estimated average per Skin. --Listof American "Shipping" Furs. --List of American "Home" Furs. --MARKETVALUE OF FUR SKINS. --Eccentricities of the Fur Market. --Demandgoverned by Fashion. --How Fashion runs the Fur Trade. --The AmateurTrapper and the Fur Trade. --Difficulty of a profitable disposalof Furs. --Advice to the Novice. --How to realize on the sale ofFurs. --TABLE OF VALUES OF AMERICAN FUR SKINS. --A complete list ofAmerican Fur bearing Animals. --Various prices of Skins accordingto Quality. --USES OF AMERICAN FURS AT HOME AND ABROAD. --The SilverFox. --Fifty Guineas for a Fur Skin. --Red Fox Fur. --Its[Page xii]use in Oriental Countries. --Beaver Fur. --Its various uses. --RaccoonSkins, a great Staple for Russia and Germany. --Bear Skins and theirvarious uses. --Lynx, Fisher, and Marten Skins. --The Mink. --Use of itshair for Artists pencils. --Muskrat Skins. --Three millions annuallyexported to Germany alone. --Their extensive use among the Americanpoorer classes. --Otter Fur. --Sleigh Robes from Wolf Skins. --RabbitFur. --Its use in the Manufacture of Hats. --Breeding Rabbits fortheir Fur. --The Wolverine. --Skunk Fur, dignified by the name ofAlaska Sable. --Large shipments to Foreign Countries. --How the Furof the Badger is used. --Opossum, Puma, and Wild Cat Fur. --Robesfor the Fashionable. --Squirrel and Mole skins. 

[Illustration]

[Page xiii][Illustration: ILLUSTRATIONS. ]

FULL PAGES. 

 1. Caught at last. 2. Traps for Large Game. 3. Snares or Noose Traps. 4. Traps for Feathered Game. 5. Miscellaneous Traps. 6. Household Traps. 7. Steel Traps, and the art of Trapping. 8. Almost Persuaded. --to face. 9. The Campaign. 10. Trapper's Miscellany. 

[Page xiv]ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. 

 11. "Preface". 12. Initial to Preface. 13. End piece to Preface. 14. "Contents". 15. "Illustrations". 16. Initial to Book I 17. Dead fall for large Animals. 18. Explanatory drawing of pieces. 19. The Gun Trap. 20. The Bow Trap 21. " " " arrangement of parts. 22. " " " Section. 23. Foot String Bow Trap. 24. The Down fall. 25. The Bear Trap. 26. End piece to Book I. 27. Initial to Book II. 28. Quail Nooses. 29. Hedge Nooses. 30. The Triangle Snare. 31. The Twitch-up. 32. Method of Setting. 33. " " " No. 2. 34. " " " No. 3. 35. " " " No. 4. 36. " " " No. 5. 37. The Poacher's Snare. 38. The Portable Snare. 39. The "Simplest" Snare. 40. Modification No. 2. 41. " " 3. 42. The Quail Snare. 43. The Box Snare. 44. The Double Box Snare. 45. The Old fashioned Springle. 46. The Improved Springle. 47. The Figure Four Ground Snare. 48. The Platform Snare. 49. End piece. 50. Initial to Book III. 51. The Brick Trap. 52. Method of Setting. 53. The Coop Trap. 54. The Bat fowling Net. 55. The Clap Net. 56. The Bird Whistle. 57. The Trap Cage. 58. Diagrams of Cage. 59. The Spring Net Trap. [Page xv] 60. Section of Spring Net Trap. 61. A Simpler Net Trap. 62. The Upright Net Trap. 63. Second Method " 64. The Box Owl Trap. 65. The Box Bird Trap. 66. The Pendant Box Bird Trap. 67. The Hawk Trap. 68. The Wild Duck Net. 69. The Hook Trap. 70. The Fool's Cap Trap. 71. The Limed Twig. 72. Humming-bird Trap. 73. Initial to Book IV. 74. The Common Box Trap. 75. Two Modes of Setting. 76. Box Trap. 77. The Figure Four Trap. 78. Parts of " 79. The "Double Ender". 80. The Self-Setting Trap. 81. The Dead fall. 82. Method No. 2. 83. The Garotte. 84. Arrangement of "Setting". 85. The Bow Garotte Trap. 86. A Fish Trap. 87. End Piece "Maternal advice". 88. Initial to Book V. 89. The Barrel Trap. 90. The Box Dead Trap. 91. The Board Flap. 92. The Box Pit-fall. 93. Diagram of " 94. Cage Trap. 95. Initial to Book VI. 96. Steel Trap. No. (0) or Rat Trap. 97. Steel Trap. No. 1, or Muskrat Trap. 98. " " No. 2, or Mink Trap. 99. " " No. 2-1/2, or Fox Trap. 100. " " No. 3, or Otter Trap. 101. " " No. 4, or Beaver Trap. 102. "The Great Bear Tamer, " Steel Trap. 103. Steel Trap No. 5, or Small Bear Trap. 104. Steel Trap set in pen. 105. The Spring Pole. 106. The Sliding pole. 107. The Grappling Iron. 108. The Wolf. 109. The Puma. 110. The Canada Lynx. [Page xvi] 111. The Wild Cat. 112. The Bear. 113. The Raccoon. 114. The Badger. 115. The Beaver. 116. The Otter. 117. The Mink. 118. The Marten. 119. The Skunk. 120. The Wolverine. 121. The Opossum. 122. The Squirrel. 123. The Moose. 124. Initial to Book VII. 125. Portable Drinking Cup. 126. The Home Shanty. 127. The Shelter tent. 128. The Trapper's Bed. 129. End Piece. 130. Initial to Book VIII. 131. Head Net. 132. Portable Hat-brim. 133. Hat-brim with netting attachment. 134. The Dug-out or Log Canoe. 135. The Birch-Bark Canoe. 136. A Light Home-made Boat. 137. Diagram view of Boat----. 138. The Snow Shoe. 139. The Toboggan or Indian Sledge. 140. The Board Stretcher. 141. The Wedge Stretcher. 142. The Bow Stretcher. 143. "The End". 

[Illustration]

[Page 15][Illustration: TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME]

[Page 17]BOOK I. 

TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME. 

[Illustration: H]owever free our forests may be from the lurkingdangers of a tropical jungle, they nevertheless shelter a few largeand formidable beasts which are legitimate and deserving subjectsof the Trapper's Art. Chief among them are the Puma, or Cougar, Bear, Lynx, Wolf and Wolverine. 

Although commonly taken in steel traps, as described respectivelyin a later portion of this work, these animals are neverthelessoften captured by Deadfalls and other devices, which are well knownto the professional Trapper, and which serve excellently in casesof emergency, or in the scarcity of steel traps. 

[Illustration]

THE DEAD-FALL. 

There are several varieties of this trap, some of which are describedin other parts of this volume. In general construction they allbear a similarity, the methods of setting being slightly changedto suit the various game desired for capture. For large animals, and particularly the Bear, the trap is sprung by the pressure ofthe animal's foot, while reaching for the bait. Select some favoritehaunt of the Bear, and proceed to construct a pen of large stakes. These should consist of young trees, or straight branches, aboutthree inches in diameter, and should be of such a length as toreach a height of four or five feet when set in the ground, thisbeing the required height of the pen. Its width should be abouttwo and a half or three feet; its depth, four feet; and the topshould be roofed over with cross pieces of timber, to prevent the[Page 18]bait from being taken from above. A straight log, about eight inchesin diameter, and six feet in length should now be rolled against theopening of the pen, and hemmed in by two upright posts, one on eachside, directly on a line with the sides of the enclosure. Anotherlog, or tree trunk, of the same diameter, and about fifteen or twentyfeet in length, should next be procured. Having this in readiness, we will now proceed to the construction of the other pieces. Inorder to understand the arrangement of these, we present a separatedrawing of the parts as they appear when the trap is set (_a_). An upright post, is supplied at the upper end with a notch, havingits flat face on the lower side. This post should be driven intothe ground in the left hand back corner of the pen, and shouldbe three feet or more in height. Another post (_b_) of similardimensions, is provided with a notch at its upper end, the notchbeing reversed, _i. E. _, having its flat side _uppermost_. Thispost should be set in the ground, _outside_ of the pen, on theright hand side and on a line with the first. A third post (_c_), is provided with a crotch on its upper end. This should be plantedoutside of the pen on the right hand side, and on a line with thefront. The treadle piece consists of a forked branch, about three feet[Page 19]in length, supplied with a square board secured across its ends. At the junction of the forks, an augur hole is bored, into which astiff stick about three feet in length is inserted. This is shownat (_h_). Two poles, (_d_) and (_e_), should next be procured, eachabout four feet in length. These complete the number of pieces, and the trap may then be set. Pass the pole (_d_) between the stakesof the pen, laying one end in the notch in the post (_a_), andholding the other beneath the notch in the upright (_b_). The secondpole (_e_) should then be adjusted, one end being placed in thecrotch post (_c_), and the other caught beneath the projectingend of the pole (_d_), as is fully illustrated in the engraving. The dead-log should then be rested on the front extremity of thepole last adjusted, thus effecting an equilibrium. 

[Illustration]

The treadle-piece should now be placed in position over a shortstick of wood (_f_), with its platform raised in front, and theupright stick at the back secured beneath the edge of the latchpole (_d_). 

The best bait consists of _honey_, for which Bears have a remarkablefondness. It may be placed on the ground at the back part of theenclosure, or smeared on a piece of meat hung at the end of thepen. The dead-log should now be weighted by resting heavy timbersagainst its elevated end, as seen in the main drawing, after whichthe machine is ready for its deadly work. 

A Bear will never hesitate to risk his life where a feast of honeyis in view, and the odd arrangement of timbers has no fears forhim after that tempting bait has once been discovered. Passingbeneath the suspended log, his heavy paw encounters the broad boardon the treadle-piece, which immediately sinks with his weight. Theupright pole at the back of the treadle is thus raised, forcingthe latch-piece from the notch: this in turn sets free the sidepole, and the heavy log is released falling with a crushing weightover the back of hapless Bruin. 

There are many other methods of setting the Dead-fall, severalof which appear in another section of this book. The above is theone more commonly used for the capture of Bears, but the others are[Page 20]equally applicable and effective when enlarged to the proper size. 

In South America and other countries, where Lions, Tigers, Leopards, and Jaguars abound, these and other rude extempore traps are almostthe only ones used, and are always very successful. The pit-falloften allures the Bengal Tiger to his destruction, and the Leopardoften terminates his career at the muzzle of a rifle baited asseen in our page illustration. A gun thus arranged forms a mostsure and deadly trap, and one which may be easily extemporizedat a few moments' warning, in cases of emergency. The Puma of ournorthern forests, although by no means so terrible a foe as theLeopard, is still a blood-thirsty creature, and while he shuns thegaze of man with the utmost fear, he is nevertheless constantlyon the alert to spring upon him unawares, either in an unguardedmoment or during sleep. A hungry Puma, who excites suspicion byhis stealthy prowling and ominous growl, may easily be led to hisdestruction at the muzzle of a gun, baited as we shall now describe. 

THE GUN TRAP. 

After a Puma has succeeded in capturing his prey, and has satisfiedhis appetite by devouring a portion of its carcass, he leaves theremainder for a second meal, and his early return to a second banquetis almost a matter of certainty. Where such a remnant of a bygonefeast is found, the capture of the Cougar is an easy matter. Anycarcass left in a neighborhood where Pumas are known to exist issure to attract them, and day after day its bulk will be found todecrease until the bones only remain. By thus "baiting" a certainplace and drawing the Pumas thither, the way is paved for theirmost certain destruction. The gun-trap is very simply constructed, and may be put in working order in a very few moments. The weaponmay be a rifle or shot-gun. In the latter case it should be heavilyloaded with buck-shot. The stock should be first firmly tied tosome tree, or secured in a stout crotch driven into the ground, the barrel being similarly supported. 

The gun should be about three feet from the ground, and shouldbe aimed at some near tree to avoid possible accident to a chancepasser-by within its range. The gun should then be cocked, _butnot capped_, due caution being always used, and the cap adjustedthe very last thing after the trap is baited and set. Where a rifle[Page 21]is used, the cartridge should not be inserted until the last thing. 

It is next necessary to cut a small sapling about a foot or twoin length. Its diameter should allow it to fit snugly inside theguard in front of the trigger, without springing the hammer. Itsother end should now be supported by a very slight crotch, as shownin our illustration. Another sapling should next be procured, itslength being sufficient to reach from the muzzle of the gun tothe end of the first stick, and having a branch stub or hook onone end. The other extremity should be attached by a string tothe tip of the first slick. 

[Illustration]

Now take a portion of the carcass and draw it firmly over the hookin the long stick. Prop the latter in such a position as that thebait shall hang directly in front of the muzzle. The crotch supportingthe bait stick should be firmly implanted in the ground in orderto hold the bait from being drawn to either side of the muzzle. 

The gun-trap is now set, and its merits may be tested. Before adjustingthe cap the pieces should be tried several times to insure theirperfect working. A slight pull on the bait from the front willdraw the short stick forward. This immediately[Page 22]acts on the trigger and causes the hammer to snap. By a few trials, the sticks can be arranged so as to spring the trigger easily, and where a hair trigger is used, a mere touch on the bait willsuffice to discharge the gun. When all is found to work perfectly, the trap should be surrounded by a rude pen of sticks and branches, extending two or three feet beyond the muzzle, in order to insurean approach directly in the aim of the gun. The cap should now beplaced on the nipple, after which the deadly device may be leftto do its certain work. The remaining portion of the carcass shouldbe removed, and where the locality is likely to be frequented byother hunters or trappers, it is well to put up a "danger" signalto guard against accident. If desired two or three guns may bearranged like the spokes of a wheel, all aiming near the bait. Even with one gun the victim stands but little chance, but wheretwo or three pour their contents into his body, his death is anabsolute certainty. 

By fastening the gun three feet above ground the load is dischargedupward into the mouth of its victim, and thus directly throughthe brain. Where two or more guns are used, it is advisable toaim at least one in such a direction as will send its charge intothe _breast_ of the animal. 

The Indian Panther is very commonly taken by the gun trap, andeven Lions are sometimes secured by the same device, only increasedin power by a larger number of guns. 

There are several other methods of setting the gun trap. One wayconsists in attaching a string to the finger piece of the trigger, passing it back through a small staple or screw eye inserted inthe under side of the stock for that purpose, and then drawingthe string forward and attaching it to the top of the bait stick. This latter is stuck in the ground directly in front of the muzzleand the bait secured to its extremity. When the tempting morsel isgrasped, the bait stick is drawn forward and the string pulled, theresult of course being the discharge of the gun. By still anothermethod, an elastic is passed through the screw eye in the stock andover the finger piece of the trigger, thus tending continually todraw it back and spring the hammer. To set the gun a short stickis inserted behind the finger piece, thus overcoming the powerof the elastic. It should be very delicately adjusted, so that amere touch will dislodge it. Its length should be about six inches, and to its other end the bait stick should be attached and arrangedas first described. Although a rather dangerous trap to be set atrandom it is nevertheless often utilized and has brought many a[Page 23]dreaded marauder to his doom. 

The bear, lynx, and other large animals are sometimes taken by thegun trap, but it is most generally set for the Puma. 

THE BOW TRAP. 

This device does duty in India and Southern Asia, where it is knownas the _tiger trap_. 

[Illustration]

It is easily constructed as follows: First cut a stout board fiveinches in width, two and a half feet in length and about two inchesin thickness. Shave off one end to a point so that it may be driveninto the ground. At the other extremity, in the middle of the boardand about two inches from the edge, a hole one half an inch indiameter and three quarters of an inch in height, should be made;two auger holes, one directly above the other with the sides flatlytrimmed, will answer perfectly. The arrow should next be constructed. This should be made of seasoned oak or ash, two feet in length, perfectly straight, smooth and round, and one third of an inch in[Page 24]diameter. One end should be notched for the bow string and vaned withthin feathers after the manner of ordinary arrows. The other extremityshould be armed with a steel barb sharply pointed, and firmly rivetedin place. Any blacksmith can forge such a tip; the shape of which isplainly seen in our engraving. The bow should consist of a piece ofstout seasoned hickory, oak or ash four feet long, if such a bow isnot at hand, a stout sapling may be used. The bow string may consistof cat-gut, or stout Indian twine. 

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

Before setting the trap, it is advisable to attract the game tothe spot selected as already alluded to in connection with thegun trap, and particularly so when the Puma is the victim sought. In our illustration we see the trap as it appears when set, andthe same precaution of aiming at some tree should be exercisedas advise with the gun trap. The bow should first be secured inplace directly beneath and one eighth of an inch from the edge ofthe hole in the board, as seen at (_a_). Two large wire staplesmay be used for this purpose, being passed over the bow throughholes in the board and clinched on the opposite side. The bendof the bow and length of string should now be determined, one endof the latter being attached to the tip of the bow and the otherend supplied with a loop. The board should then be driven into theground to the depth of about eight inches. We will next take upthe arrow. Pass the barb through the hole in the board and adjustthe notch over the bow-string, draw the arrow back and release thestring. If the arrow slide easily and swiftly, through the board, keeping true to its aim, the contrivance is in perfect workingorder and is ready to be set. This is accomplished by the verysimple and ingenious mechanical arrangement, shown at (_b_). Onthe under side of the arrow just behind the barb, a flat notchone eighth of an inch in depth and two and a half inches in lengthis cut, with rounded ends, as seen in the illustration. The baitstick should consist of a sapling about three feet in length, thelarge end being trimmed so[Page 25]as to fit in the hole over the arrow while the notch in the latterrests in the bottom of the aperture as seen in the illustration(_b_). The trap may then be set. Draw back the arrow, until thenotch rests in the hole in the board. Insert the bait stick _verylightly_ above the arrow as shown at (_b_), propping it in placeat the angle seen in the main drawing. The bait for a puma shouldconsist of a portion of some carcass, or if for other animals, any of the baits given in our section on "trapping" may be used. In order to secure the bait firmly to the bait stick, a small holeand a peg at the side of the baited end will effectually preventits removal and the trap will thus most surely be sprung. The propwhich sustains the bait stick need be only a small crotch inserteda little to one side of the trap. The bow should now be surroundedby a wide pen, allowing room for the spring of the ends. The top ofthe enclosure should also be guarded by a few sticks or brancheslaid across. Directly in front of the trap and extending from it, adouble row of rough stakes three feet high should be constructed, thus insuring an approach in the direct range of the arrow. Withoutthis precaution the bait might be approached from the side, and thearrow pass beneath the head of the animal, whereas on the otherhand it is sure to take effect in the neck or breast of its victim. Of course the success of this trap depends entirely upon the strengthof the bow. When a large and powerful one is used its effect isalmost surely fatal. 

Another form of the bow trap, much used in the capture of the tiger, forms the subject of our next illustration: no bait is here used. The trap is set at the side of the beaten path of the tiger andis sprung by the animal pressing against a string in passing. Thebow is large and powerful and is secured to two upright posts abouteight inches apart. The string is drawn back and a blunt stick isthen inserted between the bow string and the inside centre of thebow, thus holding the latter in a bent position. A stout stick, with a flattened end is next inserted between the end of the bluntstick and the inside of the bow, the[Page 26]remaining part of the stick extending downwards, as our illustrationshows. To the lower end of this stick a string is attached andcarried across the path in the direct range of the arrow, beingsecured to a stake on the opposite side. The arrow is generallybarbed with a steel or flint point, and wound with thread saturatedwith a deadly poison. This is now rested on the top of the bowbetween the upright parts, and its notch caught in the bow-string. Everything is then in readiness. The tiger soon steals along hisbeaten track. He comes nearer and nearer the trap until at lasthis breast presses the string. Twang, goes the bow and the arrow isimbedded in the flesh of its victim. He writhes for a few moments, until he is released from his torments by the certain death whichfollows the course of the poison through his veins. 

[Illustration]

The use of the poison is very dangerous: a mere scratch through theskin is likely to prove fatal, and the trapper is thus likely toprove his own victim. Poisoned arrows are little used by trappers;and the bow trap, when properly constructed, is sufficiently effectivewithout the venom. 

THE DOWN-FALL. 

This is the famous harpoon trap, so commonly used in Africa forthe capture of the hippopotamus. There is no reason why[Page 27]it may not be successfully employed in our own country for takinglarge game, or modified on a reduced scale for smaller animals. 

[Illustration]

The hippopotamus makes his daily rounds in regular beaten pathways;and the trapper, knowing this peculiarity, turns it to advantage. This is a common habit with many animals; and these "runways" areeasily detected by the matted leaves and grass and the broken twigs. Over such a beaten track the harpoon-trap is suspended. 

The harpoon used by the native African trappers somewhat resemblesa double-barbed arrowhead, and has a reflexed prong on the shaftjust behind the barbs, --a sort of combination between a spear anda fish-hook. It is a terrible weapon; and, when once launched intothe flesh of its victim, its withdrawal is impossible, on accountof the reflexed barb. Any sharp steel shaft will answer the purposeof the harpoon; it should be eight or ten inches in length, andfiled to a keen point. We will now construct the trap. The firstrequisite is a straight section of the branch of some tree. Thisshould be about four inches in diameter, and four feet in length. Into one end of this beam the harpoon should be firmly imbedded, allowing the point to project about six inches. This beam should[Page 28]then be weighted with two large stones, attached firmly by a rope, about eighteen inches above the harpoon. At about six inches fromthe other end of the log a notch should be cut, having its flatside uppermost, as shown plainly in our illustration. The implementis now ready. 

Select some favorably situated tree, whose branches extend overthe pathway chosen for the trap. By the aid of a rope secured tothe log, and thrown over the limb, the weighted beam may be drawnup into the tree. While thus held by a person below, the trappershould climb the tree to complete operations. For this purpose, asmaller branch about three feet in length should be cut. One endshould be flattened off on both sides, so as to fit in the notchin the beam; and the part which rests on the limb, as seen in theillustration, should also be flattened to prevent turning. A pieceof stout Indian twine should next be fastened to the unwhittled endof the stick, which may then be adjusted in the notch of the harpoonbeam, as seen in the engraving. The string may then be thrown down, and grasped by the companion below, who holds it firmly, afterwhich the original rope may be removed. It will be noticed that theweight of the harpoon and accompaniments rests on the short arm ofthe lever which passes over the limb of the tree, and the tension onthe string from the long arm is thus very slight. This precautionis necessary for the perfect working of the trap. To complete thecontrivance, a small peg with a rounded notch should be cut, anddriven into the ground directly plumb beneath the long end of thelever. It should be inserted into the earth only sufficiently tohold the string without pulling out, and the _side_ of the notchshould face the path; its height should be about a foot. Into thenotch the string should be passed, being afterwards drawn acrossthe path and secured on the opposite side at the same height. Thetrap is now set; and woe to the unlucky quadruped that dares maketoo free with that string! A very slight pressure from either sideis equally liable to slip the string from the notch, or loosen thepeg from the ground; and the result is the same in either case, --downcomes the weighted harpoon, carrying death and destruction to itsvictim. 

For large animals, this mode of setting will be found to work perfectly. When constructed on a smaller scale, it may be slightly modified. It will be noticed that, when the string is approached from oneside, it is merely slipped out of the notch, --a slight pressurebeing sufficient to dislodge it, --while the pressure[Page 29]from the opposite direction must be strong enough to lift the pegout of the ground bodily. This is easily done when the peg is lightlyinserted; but, to _insure_ success, even with _light_ pressure fromeither side, an additional precaution may be used, if desired. Instead of fastening the end of the string securely to some objecton the further side of the path, it is well to provide the end ofthe cord with a ring or loop, which should be passed over a nailor short peg driven in some tree or branch, or fastened into anupright stake, firmly embedded into the ground. The nail shouldpoint in the opposite direction from the notch in the peg, andits angle should incline slightly toward the path. It will thusbe seen that an approach from one side forces the string from thenotch in the peg, while an opposite pressure slides the ring fromthe nail. 

This mode of setting is especially desirable for small animals, on account of its being more sensitive. 

Such a trap may be successfully used for the puma, bear, and thelynx. When constructed for smaller animals, the harpoon may bedispensed with, a large stone being equally effective in itsdeath-dealing qualities

THE BEAR TRAP. 

This trap is constructed after the idea of the old-fashioned boxor rabbit trap, and has been the means of securing many a hungrybear, or even puma, whose voracity has exceeded its cunning. Thelynx and wild-cat are also among its occasional victims; and inasmuchas its prisoners are taken alive great sport is often realizedbefore the captive is brought under control. 

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the affair. The sidesare built of stout young tree-trunks, cut into sections and firmlydriven into the ground close together. For a large animal, --a bear, for instance, --the enclosure should be about seven feet deep, twoand a half feet wide, and four feet high. The top should be builtin with the sides, after the manner of the log cabin, describedin page (244. ) The two posts at the entrance should be first setup. On the back side of each, near the end, a deep notch should becut for the reception of the cross piece at the top. This shouldlikewise be notched in a similar manner on both sides of each end, so as to fit singly into the notches in the uprights on the oneside, and into the second pair of uprights[Page 30]on the other. These latter should next be inserted firmly intothe ground, having been previously notched on both sides of theirupper ends, as described for the cross piece. They may either befixed in place and the cross piece sprung in between them at thetop, or the latter may be held in the notches of the first pair, while the second are being inserted. Continue thus until the fulllength of the sides are reached, when the end may be closed byan upright wall of plain logs, either hammered into the ground, after the manner of the sides, or arranged one above another innotches between the two end uprights. The sliding door is nextrequired. This should be large enough to cover the opening, andshould be made of stout board slabs, firmly secured by cross pieces. It should be made to slide smoothly into grooves cut into perpendicularlogs situated on each side of the opening, or may be arranged toslip easily between the flattened side of one log on each sideand the front of the pen. Either way works well. In the latteran additional upright or short board should be inserted in theground at the edges of the sliding door, to prevent the latterfrom being forced to either side by the efforts of the enclosedcaptive. 

[Illustration]

There are two or three ways of setting the trap, depending uponthe desired game. For a bear it is arranged as in our illustration. An upright post, two feet in length, should be cut[Page 31]to an edge at one end, and wedged in between the logs at the topof the trap, near the middle. Across the top of this, a pole sevenfeet in length, should be rested; one end being attached by a loop, or secured in a notch in the sliding door, and the other suppliedwith a strong string about four feet in length, with a stick eightinches in length secured to its end. Through the centre log, inthe back of the pen, and about two feet from the ground, an augerhole should be made. The bait stick with bait attached should beinserted through this hole from the inside, and the spindle caughton the outside between its projecting end and a nail driven inthe adjoining upright. This principle is clearly illustrated onpage 105 at (_a_), and, if desired, the method (_b_) may be usedalso. For a bear, the bait should consist of a piece of meat scentedwith burnt honey-comb. The odor of honey will tempt a bear intoalmost any trap, and even into such close quarters as the abovehe will enter without the slightest suspicion, when a feast ofhoney is in view. 

For the cougar, or puma, the best bait is a live lamb or a youngpig, encaged in a small pen erected at the end of the trap. A fowlis also excellent. When thus baited, the setting of the trap isvaried. The upright post at the top of the trap is inserted nearerthe front, and the cross pole is stouter. The auger hole is boredin the top of the trap, through the centre of one of the logs, andabout twenty inches from the back end of the trap. The spindle isdispensed with and the end of the string is provided with a largeknot, which is lowered through the auger hole, and is preventedfrom slipping back by the insertion of a stick beneath. This stickshould be about three feet in length, and of such a size at theend as will snugly fit into the auger hole. It should be inserteddelicately, merely enough to hold the knot from slipping back, andso as to be easily released by a slight movement in any direction. 

This mode of setting is more fully detailed on page 52. As thepuma steals in upon his prey he dislodges the stick, the lid falls, and he finds himself imprisoned with his intended victim. Thistrap is much used in India and Asia for the capture of the tiger, and the jaguar of South America is frequently entrapped by thesame devices. 

THE PIT-FALL. 

The tiger is the scourge of India and Southern Asia and some sectionsof these countries are so terribly infested with[Page 32]the brutes that the inhabitants are kept in a continual state ofterror by their depredations. Many methods are adopted by the nativesfor the destruction of the terrible creatures, some of which havealready been described. The pit-fall is still another device bywhich this lurking marauder is often captured and destroyed. Itsometimes consists of a mere pit covered and baited in the haunts ofthe tiger, or is constructed in a continuous deep ditch surroundingthe habitations of the natives, and thus acting as a secure protection. The pit is about twelve feet deep and ten feet in width, and itsoutside edge is lined with a hedge five or six feet in height. As the fierce brute steals upon his intended prey, he nears thehedge and at one spring its highest branch is cleared. He reachesthe earth only to find himself at the bottom of a deep pit, fromwhich there is no hope of escape, and where he speedily becomesthe merciless victim of a shower of deadly arrows and bullets. 

Happily we have no tigers in the United States, but the puma andthe lynx are both fit subjects for the pit-fall. These animalscannot be said to exist in such numbers as to become a scourgeand a stranger to the inhabitants of any neighborhood, and forthis reason the "Moat" arrangement of the pit-fall is not required. The simple pit is often used, and when properly constructed andbaited is a very _sure_ trap. The hole should be about twelve feetin depth and eight feet across, widening at the bottom. Its openingshould be covered with slicks, earth and leaves, so arranged asto resemble the surroundings as much as possible, but so lightlyadjusted as that they will easily give way at a slight pressure. One edge of the opening should now be closely built up with stakesfirmly inserted into the ground, and so constructed as to form asmall pen in the middle, in which to secure the bait, generallya live turkey, goose, or other fowl. The other three sides shouldalso be hedged in by a single row of upright stakes three or fourfeet in height, and a few inches apart in order that the hungrypuma may whet his appetite by glimpses between them. 

They should be firmly imbedded in the earth directly at the edgeof the pit, and as far as possible trimmed of their branches on theinside. There will thus be a small patch of solid ground for thefeet of the fowl, which should be tied by the leg in the enclosure. Our trap is now set, and if there is a puma in the neighborhood hewill be sure to pay it a call and probably a _visit_. 

Spying his game, he uses every effort to reach it through the[Page 33]crevices between the stakes. The cries of the frightened fowl arouseand stimulate his appetite, and at last exasperated by his futileefforts to seize his victim, he springs over the fence of stakesand is lodged in the depths of the pit. 

The puma is very agile of movement, and unless the pit is at leasttwelve feet in depth there is danger of his springing out. Anyprojecting branch on the inside of the stakes affords a grasp forhis ready paw, and any such branch, if within the reach of hisleap, is sure to effect his escape. For this reason it is advisableto trim smoothly all the projections and leave no stub or knothole by which he could gain the slightest hold. The constructionof a pit-fall is a rather difficult operation on account of thedigging which it necessitates. On this account it is not so muchused as many other traps which are not only equally effective butmuch more easily constructed. The following is an example:--

THE LOG COOP TRAP. 

This is commonly set for bears, although a deer or a puma becomesits frequent tenant. As its name implies it consists of a coop oflogs, arranged after the principle of the Coop Trap described onpage 67. The logs should be about eight feet in length, notchedat the ends as described for the Log Cabin, page (244). Lay twoof the logs parallel about seven feet apart. Across their ends inthe notches, lay two others and continue building up in "cob-house"fashion until the height of about six feet is reached. The cornersmay be secured as they are laid by spikes, or they may be unitedafterward in mass by a rope firmly twisted about them from top tobottom. Logs should now be laid across the top of the coop andfirmly secured by the spikes or rope knots. There are several waysof setting the trap. A modification of that described on page 67works very well, or an arrangement of spindle and bait stick, asin the Box Trap, page 105, may also be employed. In the lattercase, the bait stick is either inserted between the logs at theback of the coop, or a hole is bored through one of them for thispurpose. For this mode of setting, the coop should be constructedbeneath some tree. It is set by means of a rope attached to theupper edge of one of its sides the rope being thrown over a limbof the tree and the loose end brought down and secured to the baitstick by a spindle, as described[Page 34]for the trap on page (195). The limb here acts in place of thetall end piece of the Box Trap, and by raising the coop up to suchan angle as that it will be nearly poised, the setting may be madeso delicate that a mere touch on the bait stick from the interiorwill dislodge the pieces and let fall the enclosure. The _simplest_mode of setting the trap is that embodied in the "snare" method onpage (52). The rope is here provided with a knot, which must passeasily between the logs, or through the hole at the back of thecoop, the length of rope being so arranged as that the coop shallbe sufficiently raised where the knot projects into the interior. Theintroduction of the bait stick beneath the knot will thus preventthe latter from being drawn back, and thus our trap is set. Thebait stick in any case should be about two feet in length; and withthis leverage but a slight touch will be required to spring thepieces. In the latter method the limb of the tree is not necessary. A stout crotched stake driven into the ground about twenty feet, at the back of the coop, will answer every purpose, and the coopmay be constructed wherever desired. This is a most excellent trapfor large animals. It secures the game alive, and is thus oftenproductive of most exciting sport. For the bear, the bait shouldconsist of honey or raw meat. Full directions for baiting all kindsof American game are given under their respective heads in anotherpart of this book. The Coop Trap may be constructed of any dimensions, from the small example on page (67) to the size above described. 

There are several other inventions commonly used for the captureof large animals in various parts of the globe, which would beof little avail in this country. Such is the African Corrall, orHopo, by which whole herds of quaggas, elands, and buffalo areoften destroyed. The trap consists of two hedges in the form ofthe letter V, which are very high and thick at the angle. Insteadof the hedges being joined at this point, they are made to form alane about two hundred feet in length, at the extremity of whicha giant pit is formed. Trunks of trees are laid across the marginsto prevent the animals from escaping. The opening of this pit isthen covered with light reeds and small green boughs. The hedgesoften extend miles in length and are equally as far apart at theseextremities. The tribe of hunters make a circle, three or fourmiles around the country adjacent to the opening, and graduallyclosing up are almost sure to enclose a large body of game, which, by shouts and skilfully hurled Javelins, they drive into the narrowing[Page 35]walls of the Hopo. The affrighted animals rush headlong to the gatepresented at the end of the converging hedges and here plunge pell-mellinto the pit, which is soon filled with a living mass. Some escape byrunning over the others; and the natives, wild with excitement, spear the poor animals with mad delight, while others of the brutesare smothered and crushed by the weight of their dead and dyingcompanions. It is a most cruel and inhuman device, and its effectsare sometimes appalling. 

THE NET TRAP. 

The lion and tiger are often taken in a net, which is secured toa frame work and suspended over a tempting bait. When the latteris touched the net falls, and the victim becomes entangled in themeshes and is securely caught. So far as we know, this mode ofcapture is never tried in this country. For the puma, lynx andwild-cat we fancy it might work admirably. The net should be ofstout cord, and should be secured to a heavy square frame work, tilted as in the coop trap, already described. There should beplenty of slack in the net, and the looseness should be drawn flatover the framework in folds. The contrivance may be set by a largefigure four trap, page (107), or the device described under thecoop trap, page (67). 

The use of bird lime, for the capture of a tiger, certainly seemsodd; but it is, nevertheless, a common mode of taking the animal, in the countries where this marauder abounds. The viscid, tenaciouspreparation known as bird lime is described on page (97) and isfamiliar to most of our readers. For the capture of birds it isunfailing, when once their delicate plumage comes in contact withit. Its effect on the tiger is surprising, and many a hunter hassecured his striped foe by its aid. For this purpose, the cansof the preparation are arranged on elevated boards around a bedof leaves, in which the bait is placed. A small platform is soplaced that the tiger shall step upon it in reaching for the bait, which, by the aid of strings, tilts the boards and tips off thecans. The lime spills on its victim and over the bed of leaves, and the tiger, in his endeavors to free himself from the stickysubstance only succeeds in spreading it, and as he rolls and tumbleson the ground he soon becomes completely smeared and covered withthe dry leaves, from which it is impossible for him to extricatehimself. 

In his frantic rage he writhes upon the ground and becomes an easy[Page 36]prey to the hunter, who is generally on hand for the fray. 

Steel traps are much used for the capture of large game, and aremade in sizes especially adapted for the purpose. These are describedunder the proper head, in another portion of this work; and the variousbaits and modes of setting required for the different animals, areclearly set forth under their respective titles of the latter, in the section "Art of Trapping. "

[Illustration]

[Page 37][Illustration: SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS]

[Page 39]BOOK II. 

SNARES OR MOOSE TRAPS. 

[Illustration: T]hese devices, although properly coming under thehead of "traps, " differ from them in the sense in which they aregenerally understood. A _snare_ naturally implies an _entanglement_;and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances whichsecure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions ofthis kind are among the most useful and successful to the professionalTrapper, and their varieties are numerous. The "Twitch-up" will berecognized as a familiar example by many of our country readers, who may have seen it during their rambles, cautiously set in thelow underbrush, awaiting its prey, or perhaps holding aloft itsmisguided victim. 

Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the trapkind, besides being the most sure and efficacious. They possessone advantage over all other traps; they can be made in the woods, and out of the commonest material. 

Let the young trapper supply himself with a small, sharp hatchet, and a stout, keen edged jack-knife, --these being the only toolsrequired. He should also provide himself with a coil of fine brass"sucker wire, " or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will bedescribed further on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket fullof bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, of course dependingupon the game he intends to trap. With these, his requirements arecomplete, and he has the material for a score of capital snares, which will do him much excellent service if properly constructed. Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary

QUAIL SNARE, which forms the subject of our first illustration. This consistsof a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They[Page 40]may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire, horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass "suckerwire, " to be found in nearly all hardware establishments and countrystores, is the best. Each noose should be about four inches indiameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end ofthe wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slippingloop, which will be found to work very easily. Fifteen or twenty ofthese nooses should be made, after which they should be fastenedeither to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inchesfrom each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the longstring supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a woodenpeg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven intothe earth, drawing the string tightly, as seen in our illustration. The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn, oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, itis advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are knownto abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food, they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equallyas certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writerhas known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, ona string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock willoccasionally be found entangled in the snare, and it will oft-timeshappen that a rabbit will be secured by the device. 

[Illustration]

HOOP NOOSES. 

This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached toa barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts, which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering thebait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivanceis complete. 

This is a very old and approved method. 

In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give also[Page 41]another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked tothe top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end, --thebait adjusted as there seen. 

We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable, and theyare commonly used; but, as it takes considerable time to make them, and the wire answering the purpose fully as well, we rather recommendthe wire in preference. We will give a few simple directions, however, for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers mightdesire to use them instead. 

Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we wouldrecommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairsand double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumband fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang fromthe under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between thethumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed totwist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting themtwist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb. 

A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult. To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distanceof separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw theloop from between the fingers as they _are_ twisted, seems quite acomplicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But whenonce mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute willbe an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs are twisted, the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the smallloop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastenedto the main string of support. Horse-hair nooses are commonly usedin nearly all snares as they are always to be had, and possessconsiderable strength. The fine brass wire is also extensivelyused, and the writer rather prefers it. It is very strong and slipseasily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, which to some might be a very difficult and tedious operation. Werecommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future, although the horse-hair may be substituted whenever desired. 

[Illustration]

There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps verycommonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. Alow hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length smallopenings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed, as in the accompanying engraving. The bait is strewn around on bothsides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery, are almost sure to become entangled[Page 42]sooner or later. It is a well-known fact about these birds, thatthey will always seek to pass _under_ an object which comes in theirway rather than fly over it; and although the hedge of this trap isonly a foot or more in height, the birds will almost invariably runabout until they find an opening, in preference to flying over it. It is owing to this peculiarity of habit that they are so easilytaken by this method. Our illustration gives only a very shortsection of hedge; it may be extended to any length. The writer'sexperience with the hedge nooses has been very satisfactory, althoughnever using a length greater than ten feet. It is well to set thehedge in the locality where quails or partridges are _known_ torun. And in setting, it is always desirable to build the hedgeso that it will stretch over some open ground, and connect withtwo trees or bushes. Cedar boughs are excellent for the purpose, but any close brushwood will answer very well. Strew the groundwith corn, oats and the like. A small quantity only is necessary. 

[Illustration]

There is another noose trap commonly used abroad, and very littleknown here. It is a _tree_ trap, and goes by the name of the "trianglesnare. " It is not designed for the capture of any _particular_ kindof bird, although it often will secure fine and rare specimens. It consists of a sapling of wood, bent and tied in the form of atriangle, as shown in our illustration. This may be of any size, depending altogether on the bird the young trapper fancies to secure. A noose should be suspended in the triangle from its longest point. This noose should hang as indicated in our illustration, fallinglow enough to leave a space of an inch or so below it at the bottomof the triangle. The bait, consisting of a piece of an apple, aberry, insect, or piece of[Page 43]meat, according to the wish of the trapper, should then be suspendedin the centre of the noose, after which the contrivance should behung in some tree to await events. As they are so easily made andcan be carried with so little trouble, it is an excellent plan toset out with a dozen or so, hanging them all in different parts ofthe woods; as, under circumstances of so many being set, scarcelya day will pass in which the trapper will not be rewarded by someone of the snares. The writer once knew of a case where a hawkwas captured by one of these simple devices. In this case it hadbeen set expressly, and the wire was extra strong. This trap, webelieve, is quite common in parts of Germany, but, as far as weknow, has not been utilized to any great extent in our country. We recommend it with great confidence. 

For the capture of woodchucks, muskrats and house-rats, the wirenoose may also be adapted to good purpose. Many a woodchuck has beensecured by the aid of this simple invention. It is only necessaryto arrange the loop in the opening of the burrow, securing the wireto a stout stick, firmly driven into the ground. If properly "set"the animal, on emerging from the burrow, will become entangled, andby his efforts to disengage himself will only tighten the loopand thus render escape impossible. For rats, the noose should beattached to a nail, and the wire similarly arranged over the hole. 

The slipping-noose thus simply adapted becomes a most effectivetrap, and is always sure to hold its victim when once within itsgrasp, as every struggle only tends to draw the noose tighter. Theyare quick in their action, and produce death without much pain, and for this reason are to be commended. 

THE "TWITCH-UP. "

Our next example of the snare, we imagine, is one which all ourboy-readers will immediately recognize; for it would certainlyseem that any country boy who does not know the "Twitch-up" mustbe far behind the times, and live in a locality where there areno rabbits, quail, or even boys, besides himself, to suggest it. This snare is a _universal favorite_ among nearly all country boys, and our illustration will immediately bring it to mind. Its name, "The Twitch-up, " conveys perfectly its method of working. Ourillustration represents the trap as it appears when set. It has manyvarieties, of which we will select the best. They may be dividedinto two classes--those with upright nooses, and those in which[Page 44]the noose is spread on the ground, the latter of which are commonlycalled "ground snares. " We will give our attention first to the"upright" style. These are rather entitled to preference on accountof the harmless death which they inflict, invariably catching bythe neck. Whereas the ground nooses as frequently lift their preyinto the air by their feet, and thus prolong their suffering. Twitch-ups are the most successful and sure of any snares, and that, too, without being complicated. The writer, in his younger days, was quite an expert in trapping, and he can truthfully say that hefound more enjoyment and had better success with these than with anyother kinds of traps he employed. 

[Illustration]

They are generally set in thickets or woods where either rabbitsor partridges are known to abound. Having arrived at his chosentrapping ground, the young trapper should first select some slender, elastic sapling; that of the hickory is the best, and is generallyto be found in open woods--if not, some other kind will answer verywell. It should be about five or six feet in length, (trimmed ofits branches, ) and in diameter need be no larger than an axe-handleor a broom-stick. When this is decided, some spot about five feetdistant from the sapling should then be selected. The hatchet andknife will now come into excellent use, in cutting the sticks forthe little inclosure shown[Page 45]in our drawing. This should be about eight or ten inches in diameter, and of about the same height. The sticks should be driven intothe ground in a circle, leaving an open space of about six incheson one side. A stout switch as large as a man's little finger, and nearly two feet long, should then be cut and nicely sharpenedat both ends. This should then be driven into the ground in theform of an arch, at the opening of the inclosure. 

We will now ask our readers to turn their attention to the nextillustration, in order to understand what is to follow. This pictureshows the method of setting the trap. 

[Illustration]

After the arch is firmly fixed in its place, a short piece of stickshould be cut, of a length corresponding to the height of the arch. To the middle of this stick the bait should be attached, beingeither tied to it or stuck on a plug driven into the stick, thelatter being sharpened on one end. Next proceed to cut anotherstick, of about six inches in length; let this be flattened onone end. The wire noose should then be fastened to the oppositeend. The noose in this case should be large enough to fill theopening of the arch. We will now go back to the sapling again. It should be bent down slightly, and a piece of the strong twineshould be tied to its tip. Taking hold of the string, proceed tobend down the end of the sapling, in the direction of the inclosure, until it draws with a force strong enough to lift a rabbit if hewere tied to the end of it. Thus holding it down with the stringagainst the front of the inclosure, cut off the twine at the placewhere it crosses the top of the arch, as this will be the requiredlength. It is now necessary to tie the end of this string to thesame piece of wood and at the same place to which the noose wastied. When this is done the trap may be set as shown in the cut. The spring sapling should be bent as seen in the first illustration. The piece of wood holding the noose should be passed beneath thetop of the arch, as far as it will go, with its long end pointinginside the inclosure. By now supporting the inside end with thebait stick, and carefully adjusting the noose so as to completelyfill the arch, the trap will be set. 

[Page 46]In order to reach the bait, the rabbit or bird _must_ necessarilypass its head through the noose, after which, if the bait be scarcely_touched_, the animal's doom is sealed, and he is lifted into theair, generally suffering almost instant death. It is well knownthat in the case of a rabbit the neck is broken by a very slightblow, a strong snap of the finger being often sufficient. It istherefore safe to conclude that when thus suddenly caught and liftedby the noose, death must occur almost instantaneously from thesame cause. 

It is not really necessary for success that the force of the saplingshould be strong enough to lift the rabbit from the ground, as amere strong tightening of the noose would be sufficient to causestrangulation and death. But we recommend the former method asbeing less painful and more rapid in its effects. 

If the young trapper should experience any difficulty in findingsaplings of the right size, in the locality where he desires toset his traps, the difficulty may be easily mended by cutting thepoles elsewhere, and carrying them to his trapping-ground, thisanswering the purpose equally well. They should be sharpened nicelyon the large end, and firmly stuck into ground. The "Twitch-up"may be used for the capture of all varieties of game, and whenset with the noose in the opening of a hollow tree, a stray coonwill occasionally be entrapped. 

The next figure represents another method of constructing thistrap, The picture explains itself. Instead of the arch, two notchedsticks are driven into the ground, one on each side of the openingof the pen, The other piece should be of the shape shown in thefigure, made either in one piece or in two pieces fastened together. They may all be constructed from twigs in the woods. Let the nooseand draw-string now be fastened to the middle of the cross piece, and when set it will appear as in our figure. It will easily beseen that a slight pull on the bait will turn the cross piece frombeneath the notches, and allow it to fly into the air. 

[Illustration: Method No. 2]

In our next instance the same principle is employed. The[Page 47]notched pegs are here driven in the back part of the pen, aboutfive inches apart, with their notches towards the front. A forkedbait stick of the shape shown is then procured. The draw-stringshould be attached near the end furthest from the fork. By nowinserting the ends lightly beneath the notches in the pegs, atthe same time letting the bait incline near the ground, the trapwill be set on a very slight lift, as the bait will dislodge thepieces. Of course the noose must be arranged in the opening of thepen, as in the previous varieties. The bait stick in both casesshould be set cautiously beneath the notches, as shown at (_a_), so that the slightest turn will cause it to roll out of position. 

[Illustration: Method No. 3]

A fourth method of snaring is shown in our next figure. In thisinstance the original arch is used, or else some circular openingconstructed in the front of the pen. Inside, at the back part ofthe inclosure, a smaller arch is placed. Two sticks are then tobe made similar to those mentioned in our first example of the"Twitch-up. " Let the draw-string be tied to the end of one of thesesticks; after which it should be passed under the inside arch, beingbrought out in front of it, and there supported by the bait-stick, as seen in our illustration. The noose should then be attachedto the draw-string above the pen, and afterward brought down andarranged in front of the opening. The trap is then set, and willbe found on trial to work admirably. 

[Illustration: Method No. 4]

One of the simplest as well as _surest_ of "Twitch-up" traps formsthe subject of our next illustration. Like the foregoing varietiesit is of course to be surrounded by its pen, and supplied with acircular opening or arch at one side, in which to hang the noose. It is constructed of three twigs. A simple crotch (_a_) should befirmly inserted in the ground at[Page 48]the back part of the pen; (_b_) the bait stick, consists of a straighttwig, five or six inches in length, and should be attached to thedraw-string at about half an inch from the large end; (_c_) isanother forked stick with unequal arms, the long one being driveninto the ground near the opening of the pen and a little to one side, letting the remaining arm point directly towards the crotch-stickat the back of the pen. The noose having been attached to thedraw-string, the trap may now be set. Lower the bait stick and passthe large end under the crotch at the back of the pen, catchingthe baited end underneath the tip of the forked stick near thepen's opening. Arrange the noose in front of the entrance, andthe thing is done. A mere touch on the bait will suffice to throwthe pieces asunder. It is an excellent plan to sharpen the pointof the forked stick (_c_) where it comes in contact with the baitstick, in order to make the bearing more slight, and consequentlymore easily thrown from its balance. 

[Illustration: Method No. 5]

THE POACHER'S' SNARE. 

Our next example represents one of the oldest and best snares inexistence, --simple in construction, and almost infallible in itsoperations. It is the one in most common use among the poachers ofEngland, hence its name. The pieces are three in number, and maybe cut from pine wood, affording easy and profitable employmentfor the jack-knife during odd hours and rainy days, when time hangsheavily. 

The pieces are so simple in form and easy of construction that asufficient number for fifty traps might be whittled in less than twohours, by any smart boy, who is at all "handy" with his jack-knife. 

If a few good broad shingles can be found, the work is even mucheasier, --mere splitting and notching being then all that is necessary. The bait stick should be about eight inches long, pointed at oneend, and supplied with a notch in the other at about half an inch[Page 49]from the tip. The upright stick should be considerably shorter thanthe bait stick, and have a length of about ten inches, one end beingnicely pointed, and the broad side of the other extremity suppliedwith a notch similar to the bait stick. About four inches from theblunt end, and on the narrow side of the stick, a square notch shouldbe cut, sufficiently large to admit the bait stick loosely. The catchpiece now remains. This should be about two and a-half inches inwidth, and bevelled off at each end into a flat edge. The shapes ofthe different pieces, together with their setting, will be readilyunderstood by a look at our illustration. 

[Illustration]

A hundred of these pieces will make a small bundle, and may be easilycarried by the young trapper, together with his other necessaries, as he starts off into the woods. He will thus be supplied with partsfor thirty-three traps, all ready to be set, only requiring thestakes for the pens, which may be easily cut in the woods. Havingselected a flexible sapling about five feet in length, and havingstripped it of its branches, proceed to adjust the pieces. Take oneof the upright sticks, and insert it firmly in the ground, withits upper notch facing the sapling, and at about four feet distantfrom it. Bend down the "springer, " and by its force determine therequired length for the draw-string attaching one end to the tipof the sapling, and the other near the end of a catch piece, thelatter having its bevelled side uppermost. The wire noose shouldthen be attached to the draw-string about six inches above thecatch-piece. The pen should now be constructed as previously directed. Its entrance should be on the side _furthest_ from the springer, and should be so built as that the peg in the ground shall be atthe back part of the enclosure. The pen being finished, the trapmay be set. 

Insert the bait stick with bait attached into the square notch inthe side of the upright peg; or, if desired, it may be adjusted bya pivot or nail through both sticks, as seen in our illustration, always letting the baited end project toward the[Page 50]opening. Draw down the catch piece, and fit its ends into the notchesin the back of the upright peg and extremity of the bait-stick. By now pulling the latter slightly, and gently withdrawing thehand, the pieces will hold themselves together, only awaiting alift at the bait to dislodge them. Adjust the wire loop at theopening of the pen, and you may leave the trap with the utmostconfidence in its ability to take care of itself, and any unluckyintruder who tries to steal its property. 

Most of the snares which we shall describe are constructed fromrough twigs, as these are always to be found in the woods, andwith a little practice are easily cut and shaped into the desiredforms. If desired, however, many of them may be whittled from pinewood like the foregoing, and the pieces carried in a bundle, readyfor immediate use. In either case, whether made from the roughtwigs or seasoned wood, it is a good plan to have them alreadyprepared, and thus save time at the trapping ground when time ismore valuable. 

THE PORTABLE SNARE. 

This is simply a modification of the snare just described, butpossesses decided advantages over it in many respects. In the firstplace, it requires little or no protection in the shape of an enclosure. It can be set in trees or in swamps, or in short in _any_ placewhere an upright elastic branch can be found or adjusted. Likethe foregoing, it is to be commended for its portability, fiftyor sixty of the pieces making but a small parcel, and furnishingmaterial for a score of traps. We call it the "portable snare"partly in order to distinguish it from the one just described, but chiefly because this particular variety is generally calledby that name in countries where it is most used. 

It is composed of three pieces, all to be cut from a shingle or thinboard. Let the first be about eight inches long, and three-quartersof an inch in width. This is for the upright. An oblong mortiseshould be cut through this piece, one inch in length, and beginningat about an inch from the end of the stick. Three inches from theother end, and on one of the broad sides of the stick, a notchshould be made, corresponding in shape to that shown in ourillustration. The bait stick should be four or five inches long, one end fitting easily into the mortise, where it should be secured[Page 51]by a wire or smooth nail driven through so as to form a hinge, onwhich it will work easily. On the upper side of this stick, and twoinches distant from the pivot, a notch should be cut, similar to thatin the upright. The catch piece should be about two inches in length, and bevelled off to a fiat edge at each end. This completes the pieces. 

[Illustration]

To set the trap, it is only necessary to find some stout sapling, after which the upright stick may be attached to it close to theground, by the aid of two pieces of stout iron wire, twisted firmlyaround both. It is well to cut slight grooves at each end of theupright for the reception of the wires, in order to prevent slipping. Tie a strong piece of twine around one[Page 52]end of the catch piece, knotting it on the beveled side. Cut thestring about two feet in length, and attach the other end to thetip of the sapling. Adjust the bait stick on its pivot. By nowlowering the catch piece, and lodging the knotted end beneath thenotch in the upright and the other end in the notch on the baitstick, the pieces will appear as in our drawing. Care should betaken to set the catch pieces as slightly as possible in the notches, in order to insure sensitiveness. At about four inches from thecatch piece, the wire noose should be attached and arranged in acircle directly around the bait. By now backing up the trap witha few sticks to prevent the bait from being approached from behind, the thing is complete, and woe to the misguided creature that daresto test its efficacy. By adjusting the drawstring so far as theupper end of the catch piece, the leverage on the bait stick isso slight as to require a mere touch to overcome it; and we maysafely say that, when this trap is once baited, it will stay baited, so far as animal intruders are concerned, as we never yet haveseen a rabbit or bird skilful enough to remove the tempting morselbefore being summarily dealt with by the noose on guard duty. 

For portability, however, the following has no equal. 

THE "SIMPLEST" SNARE. 

This is one of the most ingenious and effective devices used inthe art of trapping; and the principle is so simple and universalin its application to traps in general as to become a matter ofgreat value to all who are at all interested in the subject. Thereis scarcely a trap of any kind which could not be set with theknotted string and bait stick, at the expense of a little thoughtand ingenuity. The principle is easily understood by a look atour engraving, which probably represents the _simplest_ twitch-upit is possible to construct. A stout wooden peg, having a hole thesize of a lead pencil near the top, is driven firmly into the[Page 53]ground. The "knot" is made on the end of the draw-string, and passedthrough the hole in the peg from behind, being secured in placeby the insertion of the bait stick in front. The latter should beabout four inches long, and should be inserted very lightly, --merelyenough to prevent the knot from slipping back. The noose should befastened to the draw-string six or seven inches from the knot, and arranged in front of the bait at the opening of the pen, whichshould be constructed as previously directed. The peg should beabout six inches long and the hole should be made with a 1-3 inchauger. Dozens of these pegs may be carried without inconvenience, and utilized in the same number of snares, in a very short time. We have already described the so-called "portable snare;" but, forportability, there is no noose-trap to be compared with the above. We give also a few other applications of the same principle. 

[Illustration: Method No. 1]

In the second example, a horizontal stick is used instead of thepeg, the hole being made in its centre. Its ends are caught innotches in opposite sticks at the back part of the pen, and thenoose arranged at the opening. 

[Illustration: Method No. 2]

Again, by a third method (see engraving next page), these notchedsticks may be driven into the ground first, and a row of twigscontinued on them on both sides, thus leaving a passageway betweenas represented in the illustration. A noose may then be set ateach opening, with the bait in the middle; so that, at whicheverside it is approached, the result is the same, besides affordinga chance of securing two birds at the same time. 

THE QUAIL SNARE. 

That quails are sociable in their habits, and that they run togetherin broods in search of their food, is a fact well known[Page 54]to all sportsmen. A most excellent opportunity is thus affordedthe hunter to secure several at one shot, and the same advantagemay be gained by the trapper by specially arranging for it. Forthis purpose there is no invention more desirable or effective thanthe snare we next illustrate; and on account of the companionablehabits of the quail, it is just as sure to catch six birds as one. The principle on which the trap works, is the same as in the threeforegoing. 

[Illustration: Method No. 3]

Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inchesapart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneaththese summits, as just described. It should be firmly secured;several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and thetrap set as already directed. 

[Illustration]

The best bait consists of a "nub" of pop-corn, firmly impaled onthe spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the groundright beneath it. The nooses should be arranged around the bait soas to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introducedinto the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose. Thequail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground, and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses. When the supply hereis exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the "nub"on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened: the knot is thusreleased and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air. This invention is original with the author of this work, so faras he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as mosteffective quail snare in existence. Pop-corn is mentioned as baitpartly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail;but particularly because the _pecking_ which it necessitates[Page 55]in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring thetrap. If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answervery well. Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait, if desired. 

THE BOX SNARE. 

This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who maydesire to test its merits. It may be set for rabbits, coon, orfeathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly. Forordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leavingone end open. Place it in the position shown in the illustrationand proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a halfinches from the back edge. 

[Illustration]

This is for the reception of the bait stick. Directly oppositeto this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notchedpeg should be inserted. A gimlet hole should now be bored on aline between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch fromthe latter. A small stout screw eye should next be inserted atthe rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the backboard, two inches from the bottom. With these simple preparationsthe box is complete. The bait stick should be about five or sixinches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end. It should beof such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and providedwith a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half fromthe notched end, as shown in our illustration at (_a_). The objectof this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely[Page 56]through the hole by the force of the pull from above. The catch pieceshould be only long enough to secure its ends beneath the notches inthe peg at the top of the box and the projecting bait stick. It shouldbe bevelled off at the tips as in the instances previously described, and attached to a piece of sucker wire, the point of attachment beingat about an inch from the end of the stick. The wire should be abouttwo and a half feet in length, the catch piece being fastened at aboutsix inches from one end. To set this neat little invention it isfirst necessary to procure a strong and elastic switch about fourfeet in length, sharpen it slightly at the large end and insertit firmly in the screw eye at the back of the box, securing it inplace at the top by strings through the screw eye at that place. Bynow attaching the short end of the wire to the tip of the sapling, inserting the bait stick from the inside of the box, and securing thecatch piece in the notches, the other pieces will be in equilibrium, and the only remaining thing to be done is to pass the long endof the wire through the gimlet hole, and form it into a slippingnoose which shall completely fill the opening of the box. In orderto reach the bait the animal must pass his head through the noose, and it can be easily seen that the slightest pull on that temptingmorsel will release the catch piece and tighten the wire aroundthe neck of the intruder. Where the trap is small and the capturedanimal is large, it will sometimes happen that the box will becarried a distance of several feet before overpowering its victim;but it is sure to do it in the end if the spring powers of thesapling are strong and it is firmly secured to the box. If desired, the box may be tied to a neighboring stone or tree to prevent anysuch capers; but it will generally be found unnecessary, and a fewminutes' search will always reveal it with its unlucky captive. 

We have described the box with its spring attached; but this is nota requisite, as it may be used with growing sapling when required. 

The same trap may be constructed of a pasteboard box and whalebone, for the capture of small birds, and used with good success. Thesize we have mentioned is adaptable for rabbits and animals ofthe same size, but is really larger than necessary for featheredgame. 

THE DOUBLE BOX SNARE. 

This is another embodiment of the same principle which has alreadybeen described, viz. --the knotted string. By many it[Page 57]is considered an improvement on the box snare just mentioned, owingto the possibility of its taking two victims at the same time. Itmay be set for rabbits, mink, or muskrat, and will be found veryefficient. 

[Illustration]

It consists of a box about eight inches square, one foot in length, and open at both ends. In the centre of the top board a hole of thediameter of a lead pencil should be bored, and a smaller aperturealso made in the middle of each end near the edge as seen in theaccompanying engraving. The spring is next required. This shouldconsist of an elastic switch or small pole, three or more feetin length. It should be inserted in a slanting auger hole, madethrough the middle of one of the side boards near the bottom atthe angle shown at (_a_). Should the switch fit loosely it may beeasily tightened by a small wedge driven in beside it. The baitstick (_b_) should be about four inches in length, and large enoughto fit easily into the hole in the centre of the top board. Nextprocure a stout bit of cord about eight inches in length. Tie one[Page 58]end to the tip of the switch and provide the other with a largedouble knot. A second knot should then be made, about an inch anda half above the first. A piece of sucker wire is the next necessity. Its length should be about five feet, and its centre should be tiedover the uppermost knot in the string. If the bait is now in readiness, the trap may be set. Bend down the switch until the end knot will passthrough the hole in the centre of the board. When it appears in theinside of the box, it should then be secured by the insertion of thetop of the bait stick, as shown at (_b_). This insertion need be onlyvery slight, a sixteenth of an inch being all that is sufficientto prevent the knot from slipping back. The spring is thus heldin the position seen in the drawing, and the loose ends of thesucker wire should then be passed downward through the small holesand arranged in nooses at both openings of the box. Our trap isnow set, and the unlucky creature which attempts to move that baitfrom either approach, will bring its career to an untimely end. The bait stick may be so delicately adjusted as to need only theslightest touch to dislodge it. Such a fine setting is to be guardedagainst, however, being as likely to be sprung by a mouse as bya larger animal. The setting is easily regulated, being entirelydependent upon the slight or firm insertion of the bait stick. Among all the "modi operandi" in the construction of traps, thereis scarcely one more simple than the principle embodied in thisvariety, and there is none more effective. 

The box snare already described may be set by the same method, and indeed the principle may be applied to almost any trap, fromthe simplest snare described on page (52) to the largest dead-fall. 

 * * * * *

GROUND SNARES. 

THE OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE. 

[Illustration]

This is the variety of snare which has been in very common usefor ages, and has always been the one solitary example of a noosetrap which our "boys' books" have invariably pounced upon forillustration. For the capture of small birds it works very nicely;and as without it our list of traps would be incomplete, we willgive an illustration of it as it appears when[Page 59]set and ready for its work. In constructing the affair it is firstnecessary to cut a flexible twig of willow or bramble about eighteeninches in length, and form it into a loop as seen at (_a_), securingthe tips by a few circuits of string, and allowing the larger endto project an inch or more beyond the other. This loop, which iscalled the "spreader, " should now be laid down flat; and on theupper side of the large end and about an inch from its tip, a notchshould be cut as our illustration shows. The spring should next beprocured, and should consist of a pliant, elastic switch, aboutfour feet in length. A piece of fish line about two feet long, should now be fastened to the tip of the switch, and the looseend of the cord attached to a catch piece of the shape shown at(_b_). This catch may be about an inch and a half long, and shouldbe whittled off to an edge on one end, the string being attached atabout its centre. A slipping noose, made from strong horse hair, or piece of fine wire about two feet long, should now be fastenedto the string about two inches above the catch. Having the switchthus prepared, it is ready to be inserted in the ground at the placeselected for the trap. When this is done, another small flexibletwig about a foot in length should cut, and being sharpened atboth ends, should be inserted in the ground in the form of an arch(_c_), at about three feet distant from the spring, and having itsbroad side toward it. Insert the notch of the spreader exactlyunder the top of the arc, and note the spot where the curved endof the former touches the ground. At this point a peg (_d_) shouldbe driven leaving a projecting portion of about two inches. The[Page 60]pieces are now ready to be adjusted. Pass the curved end of thespreader over the peg, bringing the notched end beneath the arc withthe notch uppermost. Draw down the catch piece, and pass it beneaththe arc from the opposite side letting the bevelled end catch in thenotch in the spreader, the other end resting against the upper partof the arc. Arrange the slipping noose over the spreader as ourdrawing indicates, bringing it _inside_ the peg, as there shown, asotherwise it would catch upon it when the snare is sprung. Strew thebait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or the like, _inside_ thespreader, and all is ready. Presently a little bird is seen to settleon the ground in the neighborhood of the trap; he spies the bait andhopping towards it, gradually makes bold enough to alight upon thespreader, which by his weight immediately falls, the catch is released, the switch flies up, and the unlucky bird dangles in the air by thelegs. If the trapper is near he can easily release the strugglingcreature before it is at all injured, otherwise it will flutteritself into a speedy death. 

THE IMPROVED SPRINGLE. 

[Illustration]

The accompanying cut illustrates an improvement on the last mentionedtrap, whereby it can be used for the capture of larger game, andwith most excellent success. In place of the "spreader" a crotchedstick is used, the crotch of which catches around the peg, the otherend being supplied with a notch as in the case of the spreader. On the upper side of this stick a small pasteboard platform istacked, over which and beneath which the bait is thrown. Insteadof the arc, a stout crotch stick is substituted. The noose shouldbe at least ten inches in diameter and constructed of sucker wire. It should be arranged on the ground around the bait and insideof the peg. When the snare is set, the crotched end of the baitstick will thus rest near the earth, the notched end only beinglifted in order to reach the catch piece. It is well to inserta few small sticks inside the edge of the noose in order to keepit in correct position. If properly set, the quail or partridge[Page 61]in approaching the trap will have to step _inside_ the noose in orderto reach the bait, and while thus regaling itself with a choice mealof oats, berries, or other delicacies, will be sure to press upon thebait stick either by pecking, or treading upon it, and will thus setthe catch piece free, only to find itself secured by a grasp fromwhich he will never escape alive. This is a very effectual snare;but on account of its securing its victim by the legs and thustorturing them to death, it is to be deprecated. We would recommendin preference, those varieties already described as being fully assuccessful, and far less cruel. They effect almost instant death, either by broken necks or strangulation, and are in this regardamong the most humane traps on record. 

THE FIGURE FOUR GROUND SNARE. 

[Illustration]

For simplicity in construction there are few snare traps whichcan compare with this variety, although it is somewhat similarto those last mentioned, and like them, catches by the feet. Thetrap consists of three pieces. A catch piece about three incheslong, a bait stick of about six inches, and a stout crotch of theproportionate size shown in our illustration, a glance at whichwill make the setting too clear to need description. Be carefulthat the bait stick is set _fine_ and rests _just beneath_ the_tip_ of the catch-piece so that a mere touch on the bait willrelease it. Arrange the noose as in the instance last described, and bait either as therein directed or with an apple or nubbinof corn, as our accompanying cut indicates. Always rememberingthat the noose should be sufficiently large to require the birdsto step _inside_ of it in order to reach the bait. 

THE PLATFORM SNARE. 

[Illustration]

This odd invention will be found to work capitally as a game trap, and the only extra requisite necessary consists of a slab or lightboard about seven inches wide, and a foot in length. Having selectedthe spot for the trap, proceed to cut a stiff[Page 62]switch about five feet in length, and having sharpened the largerend to a nice point, insert it firmly into the ground in a slantingdirection as our drawing illustrates. Next bend down the tip ofthe sapling, and resting one end of the board on the ground, catchthe tip of the switch against the other end, as our illustrationalso shows. A little experimenting will soon determine the rightplace for the board, after which two pegs should be driven in theground at its edge to hold it against the pressure on the oppositeend. This being done fasten a wire noose to the tip of the switch, after which the pen is the only thing required. This should bebuilt of simple little twigs arranged around three sides of theboard, leaving the front end open. To set the snare, lower theswitch and raising the board slightly at the back end, catch thetip of the springer behind it, afterwards arranging the noose overthe platform, and scattering the bait inside. If the trap has beenconstructed properly and set "fine" it will take but a very slightweight on the platform to lower it from its bearing, the weight ofan ordinary bird being sufficient, and the springer thus releasedwill fly forward either catching its victim by the neck or legs, as the case may be. It may sometimes be found necessary to cuta slight notch in the end of the springer to receive the board, but in every case it should be tried several times in order tobe sure that it works sensitively. 

[Page 63][Illustration: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME]

[Page 65]BOOK III. 

TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME. 

[Illustration: A]mong the following will be found the various netand cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, besidesseveral other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc. , manyof which are original with the author of this work and appear inthe present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest amongbird-catching machines, is the well known invention of

THE SIEVE TRAP. 

This device certainly possesses one great advantage:--_it is notcomplicated_. Any one possessed of a sieve and a piece of stringcan get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he haspatience, and can wait for his little bird, he is almost sure tobe rewarded for his pains, --if he wait long enough. This of coursedepends upon circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are notshy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in avery few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waitingis unrewarded. 

The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus proppedin position by a slender stick. To this stick a string or thread isattached and the same carried to some near place of concealment, when the trapper may retire out of sight and watch for his "littlebird. " The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs, seed or other bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoyingtheir repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners. The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the cooptrap, page (68), and may thus be left to take care of itself. Where[Page 66]the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answersthe purpose perfectly, but when tedious waiting is likely to ensuethe self-acting trap is better. 

THE BRICK TRAP. 

This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the threeor four stereotyped specimens of traps selected for publication inall Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers. 

Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in ourengraving, letting them rest on their _narrow_ sides. If properlyarranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as largeas the broad surface of the brick. A small, forked twig of theshape shown in the separate drawing (_b_) having a small piececut away from each side of the end, should then be procured. Nextcut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointedat each end. A small plug with a flat top should now be driveninto the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from eitherof the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground. The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of the forkedtwig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward, or toward the end of the enclosure nearest the plug. The pointedstick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end ofthe fork, over the plug, and the other beneath the fifth brick, which should be rested upon it. The drawing (_b_) clearly showsthe arrangement of the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scatteredon the ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies[Page 67]to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, which byhis weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus lettingfall the sustained brick. 

[Illustration]

It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructedwill capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the topmostbrick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completelycover the open space. This is a very simple and effectual littlecontrivance, and can be made with a _box_ instead of bricks, ifdesired. A piece of board may also be substituted for the top brick, and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks furtherapart, thus making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird. 

[Illustration]

THE COOP TRAP. 

This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and largefeathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappersthroughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victimswithout harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilationfor the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in theconstruction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrateis most commonly employed on account of its simplicity and easymanufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity ofcarrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in avery few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever useof the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a fewyards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brownpasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board fiveinches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as ourengraving (_b_) indicates. Having these, the young trapper startsout with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart[Page 68]will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in aforenoon. 

[Illustration]

In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cutfour stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inchesin length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knotcome on the inside as our illustration (_a_) explains and leavinga loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. Thisforms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs ofabout the same thickness, and from them select two more correspondingin length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coopon the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to laythe two selected sticks across the ends of the[Page 69]uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two. Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cutand laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above thesecond set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equalsize, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks shouldbe a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed alittle inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size asthe last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thusforming the commencement of the conical shape which our engravingpresents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two stickscob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous, the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozensets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced intothe opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting eachone lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the stringsloosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceedto build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced toonly four or five inches across. The square board will now comeinto play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centreand rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, takingcare that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of itsside, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressurethat is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg ofhard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and betweenthe strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible overit. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightenedand the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together withgreat firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid ofa tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shownat (_b_). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which willlast for many seasons. To _set_ the affair it is necessary to cutthree sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The proppiece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length fromthe tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hookedtwig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to thelatter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch atthe tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side toreceive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the baitand which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of thesetwigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice insearching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise upone side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the[Page 70]short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge ofthe coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of thebait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, andpushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notchof the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to bebaited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, "nannie berries" or thelike, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the grounddirectly _beneath_ and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at thecorn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fallover its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or eventhree quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and afterthe first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselvesto their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as ifthey had been brought up to it. 

The method of setting the coop trap above described is a greatimprovement on the old style of setting, and is an improvementoriginal with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circularhoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The endsof the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of thecoop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening ofthe coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindlecatches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the baitstick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop. When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressingit downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experiencehas shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders, but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limpingto regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it willbe seen that the whole body of the bird _must_ be _beneath_ thecoop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properlyset it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author canrecommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone givingboth methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthlessin comparison. 

THE BAT FOWLING NET. 

With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, butso far as we know it has not been utilized to any great extent inthis country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern, and large numbers of sparrows and other birds are often secured. 

[Page 71][Illustration]

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may beconstructed as follows: Procure two light flexible poles, abouteight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached, and the same secured to the middle of the pole, having drawn downthe tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent endsshould now be attached together by a hinge of leather. A pieceof mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of sucha size as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seenin the illustration--the bottom edge being turned up into a bag, about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and isused as follows: Three persons are generally required, and a darknight is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer afavorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that theyare sought by the bird-hunters. A breezy night is preferable, asthe birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusualsounds. 

Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holdsthe light, which is generally a _dark_ lantern, another takes thenet, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beatthe bushes. The net is first held upright about a foot from thebush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is thenmoderately beaten, and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly againstthe net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, andwhen a full roost can be discovered a large number may be takenin a single night. The lantern should be closed while not in actualuse, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. Thedark lantern in itself is useful without the net. The light oftenso bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of thelantern and flutters to the ground, where it may be easily takenwith the hand. 

[Page 72]THE CLAP NET. 

In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a commonresource for the capture of wild birds of various kinds. It may becalled a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generallyused in connection with it. They are placed at distances around thetrap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. Thesebirds are especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamedbird that chirps will attract its mates from the near neighborhood, and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirelydispensed with, and the "bird whistle" used in their stead. Thiswill be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a"decoy" would be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommendthe use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection ofmimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers with the useof this little whistle, is something surprising. 

[Illustration]

No matter what the species of bird--whether crow, bobolink, thrushor sparrow, the song or call is so exactly imitated as to deceivethe most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves. Of course this requires practice, but even a tyro may soon learnto use the whistle to good advantage. 

The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance--so large thatseveral hundred pigeons are often caught at once. It is "sprung"by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. Thenet is generally constructed as follows, and may be made smallerif desired:--

[Page 73]Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteenfeet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden rods one inchin thickness and five feet in length are next required. These maybe constructed of pine, ash, or any other light wood, and one shouldbe securely whipped to each end of the netting. 

Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slatepencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece one inch fromthe tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side ofthe net. The other extremities of the four poles should be supplied, each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order--one ofwhich is shown separate at (_P_). It should be about eight inchesin length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, andsharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be suppliedwith a notch two inches in depth and of such a width as will easilysecure the perforated end of one of the poles already described. By the use of the gimlet or a red-hot nail, a hole should now bebored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notchfor the reception of a wire pin or smooth nail. 

The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper maythus easily carry them to his selected trapping ground. This shouldbe smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the netsand spread them flatly on the ground, as seen in the illustration. Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow aspace of six feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw thenet flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs ateach of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots bythe aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes eight orten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look atour engraving. Each one should be inserted _five feet_ distantfrom the notched peg, and _exactly_ on a line with the _inside_edge of the net--one for each corner. They should slant from thenet in every case. To each one of these stakes a stay-rope shouldbe secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of thenearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the netperfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, about twenty feetin length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screweyes in the poles. This is the loop to which the draw-string isattached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose. To this loop and a _little one side of the middle_, the draw-stringshould be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle of the loop, the two nets will _strike_ when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas[Page 74]when adjusted a little to one side, the nearest net will move atrifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and withoutstriking--completely covering the ground between them. When thetrap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelterwhere the bird-catcher may secrete himself from view. Spreading thebait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birdsat the proper distances, he awaits his opportunity of springinghis nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with hisgame, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured. 

Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way. 

The "bird whistle, " already alluded to, is often used with goodeffect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such aproximity to the net as will enable them to spy the bait, afterwhich their capture is easily effected. 

THE BIRD WHISTLE. 

This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearlyshown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: First, procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circularpiece one inch and a quarter in diameter. Through the centre ofthis disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. Asemi-circular piece of tin is next required. It should be of theshape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width acrossthe ends being about three-quarters of an inch, and its entirelength being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a pieceof thin sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip aboutan inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of its longedges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold theleather in half (over the rubber), and draw the latter tightly. Nextlay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, andby the aid of a fine needle and thread sew it through the holes, including both leather and rubber in the stitches. When this isdone, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is notattainable, a good substitute may be found in the thin outer membraneof the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away. 

[Illustration]

[Page 75]To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tinside up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the front. Whenonce wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilfulblowing, it can be made to send forth a most surprising varietyof sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush maybe made to follow each other in a single breath, and the squealof a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. Inshort, there is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped, the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use ofthe prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety becalled, the "menagerie whistle. "

THE WILD GOOSE TRAP. 

In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmiganflock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly utilized. It consistsmerely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width, arranged on a framework, and propped in a slanting position bytwo poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generallyset on the ice; and the trapper, after attaching his strings tothe props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retiresto a distance to await his chances. Tame geese are often used asdecoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is usedfor the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the baitconsists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to imagine a less temptingallurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is saplessand hard, it becomes necessary for them to swallow a considerableamount of gravel to promote digestion. The great depth of the snowrenders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; andthe Indians, taking advantage of this fact, succeed in capturingimmense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simpleallurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow, placed under the centre of the net, and the draw-string is carriedto some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where thetrapper can always get at it without being seen by the birds underthe net. 

When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into theadjacent woods and willows, and drive their game toward the nets. This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds comein sight of the heap of gravel, than they fly towards it _en masse_, and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game. [Page 76]The hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull, hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, and they areprisoners. 

Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep ofthe net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be constructed ona reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired. 

THE TRAP CAGE. 

[Illustration]

Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universaltrap; and, where a _decoy_ bird is used, it is particularly successful. The cage is arranged in two compartments, [Page 77]one above the other, --the lower one being occupied by the call-birds. The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and muchpatience; and, for the benefit of those who may desire to exercisethat patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which mayhelp them along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the heightshould be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the topand other two sides eight inches. First cut four corner uprights. These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot inlength. Next cut a bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eightinches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut asmall cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square, thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the ends ofthe uprights, as seen at (_a_). Before adjusting these pieces, the four sides of the boards should be pierced with small holes, as is also shown in the diagram (_a_). These may be punched with abrad-awl, and should be about half an inch apart, and three-eighthsof an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprightsmay then be secured in place by two long brads, one being hammeredeach way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut four moreof the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length, and the remaining two eight inches. The corners of these shouldnow be neatly bevelled off, so as to fit after the manner of apicture-frame. They should then be attached to[Page 78]the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner ofeach, as seen at (_b_), the dotted lines indicating the end ofthe upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced withholes to correspond with those in the bottom board, and runningup and down in the direction of the wires. 

[Illustration]

The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should beten and a half inches in length, and the other two six and a-half, and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punchedwith holes corresponding with those above, after which they maybe inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, andsecured by a brad at each end. 

The trap door is shown separate at (_c_). The side sticks shouldbe eight inches in length, and one-half an inch square, and thetop and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be setin _between_ the side sticks, and the lower one should be securedabout half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seenin the illustration. The holes should be made in the side pieces, and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron, or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now bepivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between the long sides, in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of thenarrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff wire should be used forthe hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into thelower ends of the door pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout. This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirtyyards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used. It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should work easily. Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom boardthrough one of the holes next to the corner. Pass the wire upward, through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece andacross to the opposite broad side and corresponding hole. Fromthis point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, andagain through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing itupward through the hole next to it, bring it over the top of thecage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started. Continue thus until the hinge of the door is reached; after whichthe wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thuscarried around the small end of the cage until it finally meetsat the door hinge on the opposite side. The two halves of the cageshould now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main[Page 79]illustration. This may be accomplished either by passing the wirefrom side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or anadditional horizontal row of holes below the others may be punchedfor the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is introducedshould next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways ofdoing this: one method consists in sawing a hole three inches squarein the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a pieceof tin is made to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of whichare placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is perhapsthe simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (_f_), together with its mode of attachment. 

It consists of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inchsquare, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two inchesin length. These are arranged into a square framework by a boardin each corner. Four holes are to be pierced in each side piece, at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should thenbe wired as directed for the cage. The lowest hole on each sideshould be left open for a separate piece of wire. The cage shouldnow receive attention. The broad side is generally selected forthe door. Find the seven centre wires and connect them across themiddle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily donewith a pair of pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of thewire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When thisis performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off abouta quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, and the projectingtips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers. The lower parts of the upright wires may now be cut off close to theboard. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire throughthe holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loopthe ends of the projecting wire loosely around the upright wiresat each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down. Another wire should now be interlaced downwards through the centreof the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door reston the bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjustthe ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it. The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neatand work easily. 

The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To completethis it is first necessary to interweave a _stiff_ wire loop, asseen at (_d_). The loop should extend on the _inside_ of the lowerpiece of the door and about two inches below it. The[Page 80]_spring_ power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwovenbetween the wires of the top of the cage, and those of the door, while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficientto bring down the door with a snap; and for further security acatch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired. 

The spindle is next required. This is shown at (_g_), and consistsof a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched ateach end. In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seenin the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle shouldnow be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of thecentral wires in the end of the cage. The bait, consisting of aberry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindleor placed beneath on the wires. The call-bird having been introduced, the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trainedit will not be many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood willbe attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less cautiousthan the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. Hesoon discovers the bait, and alighting upon the perch, throws itasunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive. The cage is sometimes constructed double, having two compartmentsbeneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resemblingtwo of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is notan absolute necessity to the success of the trap. Many birds arecaught simply by the bait alone. The trap cage, when constructedon a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the captureof the owl. In this case it is baited with a live mouse or bird, and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap workingon this principle, being especially adapted to the capture of theowl, will be noticed hereafter. 

THE SPRING NET TRAP. 

Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustrationpresents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, and may bemade in the following manner, and by frequently referring to thepicture, our explanation will be easily understood. 

The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteeninches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of about twoinches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same[Page 81]height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an inch betweenthem all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such asize that it will just fit in the interior box, with a very slightspace all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upperpart of this box by two small slender pins, one being driven throughinto its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitivelypoised. The next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle andcatch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of woodfastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from oneend, as seen both in the main illustration and in the diagram at(_b_). 

[Illustration]

The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured witha leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, directly oppositethe catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itselfbeneath the catch. When thus in its position, two small plugs shouldnext be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side ofthe spindle, thus holding it in place. A glance at our illustrationmakes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoopshould consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraphwire. 

For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eightinches will be found to answer. Before making the hoop, however, its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples ofbent wire should be driven into the bottom of the box between thetwo walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wireshould now be bent so as to fit round and settle into the spacebetween the boxes, letting each end rest[Page 82]over the screws in the bottom. It will be found that there willbe enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with thepincers. These loops should be passed through the screws or ringsalready inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thusbe made, and will appear as at (_c_). If properly done, they shouldallow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box to the other, and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge shouldprove too complicated for our young readers, they may resort toanother method, which, although not so durable, will answer verywell. In this case the wire will only need to reach to the exactmiddle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a lengthof twenty-six inches will be exactly right. On each end a shortloop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening theseloops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws, it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of the morecomplicated one. 

[Illustration]

The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if thiscannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. It should besewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, withthe hoops resting in its groove, the netting should be drawn over theplatform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaininghalf. It should rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty ofspace for the bird. 

But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentionedthe use of elastics in other varieties: they are of equal use here, and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (_a_) in the sectiondrawing, the remaining ends being fastened to the bottom of thegroove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed onboth sides, and stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoopquickly from one side to the other. 

It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to theopposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; lower the spindleover it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securingits end beneath the catch on the platform. If the bait, [Page 83]consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be nowsprinkled on the platform, the trap is ready for its featheredvictim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on _either_side of this poised platform will throw the catch from the end ofthe spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instantis covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird mayhave chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty little trap, and will well repay the trouble of making it. 

A SIMPLER NET TRAP. 

[Illustration]

Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird trapsof various kinds, but often the ingenuity has been misplaced, andthe result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness forpractical purposes. The examples of net traps presented in thisvolume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understandthem. What can be more so than the present example, and yet itis as sure in its effect, and _surer_ than those other varietiesof more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trapof any kind is, that the bearings are slight and that they springeasily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome frictionas much as possible, using only a small number of pieces, and havingas few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The presentvariety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructedsomewhat on the principle of the ordinary steel trap, and alsoresembles in other respects the one we have just described, althoughmuch simpler. We give only a section drawing, as this will besufficient. The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteeninches is shown at (_a_); (_b_) indicates the loops of a bent wire, to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described, [Page 84]the loops being fastened to the board as in the other variety;(_g_) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length andhalf an inch in width. It should be tacked on to the middle ofthe one end of the board and project about a half inch above thesurface. To the top of this the spindle (_c_) should be attachedby a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine, five inches in length and a quarter of an inch square, bevelled;on the under side of one end (_d_) is the catch or bait piece, and should be whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shapeshown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side shouldbe supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle, and the other should project out two or three inches, being coveredon the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin woodeither glued or tacked in place. To attach this piece to the mainboard, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted intothe bottom end of the piece and the other being hooked throughit, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forminga loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lowertip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as seen at(_d_), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends withtwo staples driven into the bottom board, as shown at (_e_). Inour last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubberelastic, and the same may be used in this case, if desired, but byway of variety we here introduce another form of spring which maybe successfully employed in the construction of traps of variouskinds. It is shown at (_o_) and consists merely of a piece of temperedhoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should beabout three inches long by half an inch wide. About three-quartersof an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is tobe attached to the board. The rest should be bent upward and thustempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling incold water. 

One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side, directly under the wire and quite near the hinge, in the positionshown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindleand catch its extremity in the notch of the bait piece, and the trapis set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform, and lay the machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent;and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps minutes, before itwill prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raisingthe wire and thereby escaping, it is well to fasten a little tin[Page 85]catch (_f_) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wireand hold it in its place. 

THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP. 

The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhatsimilar to the one we have just described, in its manner of working. 

Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to theedge of the other, as represented in our engraving. A stout wireis the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, andbent either into a curve or into two corners, making three equalsides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very smallloop for the hinge. On to this wire the netting should then besecured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends ofthe wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples intothe angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration. Allowthe wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceedto tack the netting around the edges of the upright board. Twoelastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securingtheir loose ends to the bottom of the trap. They should be tightlydrawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle ofthis trap should be about eight or nine inches long, square andslender, --the lower end being flattened, and the upper end securedto the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string. An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inchand a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of the lengthbeing tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tackedon to the upper edge of the board. 

The platform is given by itself at (_a_) in the same picture. Itmay be made of very thin wood--cigar box wood, for instance, oreven thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece whichis hinged into the angle of the boards should be about three inchesin length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inchessquare, and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip ofthe spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our engraving. The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where theleather is fastened, the opposite end being bevelled off in orderthat the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it. The diagram (_a_) will make this all very clear. 

When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the[Page 86]trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible, and lowerthe spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick onthe platform. If the trap is properly constructed, the pressureof the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seenin our illustration. The upright stick on the back of the platformshould never be more than an inch and a half from the back of thetrap. If need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of thespindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright stickto correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of thetack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the right position. But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that itsprings easily. 

[Illustration]

When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a littlealso on the bottom of the trap and on the ground directly around it. The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alightingon the trap are misled, and the slightest peck or pressure on theplatform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down thewire and net with a _snap_, and the little creature is securedwithout harm. 

[Illustration: Method 2. ]

Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform. It should be about three or four inches square, [Page 87]and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece shouldbe fastened. This piece, as will be seen in our engraving, shouldbe cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured tothe platform by two brads, the tip being cut to a point. The totallength of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. Whentacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the othertwo and exactly in the centre of the side of the platform. Thislatter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should projectabout a quarter of an inch, as seen at (_a_). On the opposite edgeof the platform another larger brad should be driven, having itsend filed to a blunt point, as in (_b_). If the filing would betoo tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answerevery purpose. The upright props which support the platform shouldbe cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and halfan inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should haveone end whittled to a point, which will admit of its being insertedin a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holesshould be made at least half an inch in depth. Make the first atabout an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insertthe shorter pieces, broadside front. Lay the pivot brad of theplatform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wirestaple, as seen at (_a_). Elevate the platform evenly and determinethe spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneaththe point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle ofthe board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be perfectlyparallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place, and the platform is complete. The overhanging spindle now requires alittle attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringingit to a point at the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plugshould then be driven into the back piece, as our illustrationshows. These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle topass easily between them. The _setting_ of the trap is plainly shown[Page 88]in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caughtfinely on the tip of the catch-piece. The blunt point at the oppositeend of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in theprop against which it presses. If the platform be now strewn withbait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple andwill be found very effective. 

THE BOX OWL TRAP. 

The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly anodd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance which hasbeen successfully used for that purpose. 

The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in ourengraving, and well ventilated with holes, as indicated. (Thisventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in _all_traps. ) Having made or selected a suitable box--say, fourteen ormore inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge--proceedto fasten on the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent inthe shape shown at (_e_). This may be fastened to the cover bymeans of small staples, or even tacks, and should project overthe edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid should beraised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot wherethe end of the wire loop touches the back of the box should bemarked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enoughfor the angle of the loop to pass through. Two elastics shouldnow be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to thebottom at the side, and the other to the edge of the cover, asseen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong todraw down the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consistof a light stick of wood, as shown at (_b_, ) one end provided witha slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the frontof the box by a string or leather hinge, (_c_, ) keeping the notch onthe _upper_ side of the stick. It will be now seen that by openingthe cover, until the loop enters through the groove, and by thenhooking the notch in the spindle _under_ the loop as seen at (_a_)the trap will be set, and if properly done it will be found that avery slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loopand let the cover down with swiftness. 

To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be appliedto the front edge of the box, as shown in the illustration. A pieceof tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answerfor this purpose. One end should be bent[Page 89]down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attachedby two tacks, to the edge of the box, in the position shown inthe cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape ofwhatever bird, large or small, the trap may chance to secure. Itis a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elasticsmight be torn asunder and the lid thereby easily raised. 

[Illustration]

This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularlydesigned for a _bird_ trap, it is well to sprinkle the bottom ofthe box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets, grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very apt to jump out, and itmay be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pinthrough the body, just behind the head. 

There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively oninsects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, there isscarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A birdon approaching this trap will almost irresistibly alight on theperch, and if not at _first_, it is generally sure to do so beforelong. If desired, a pasteboard platform may be fastened on the[Page 90]top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered uponit. This will act in the same manner, and might, perhaps, be atrifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experimentupon. 

We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap, " because it maybe used with success in this direction. When set for this purpose, it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, eitherfastened to the bottom of the trap, if a bird, or set in with thetrap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait, as it may be easily fastened to the bottom of the box by a string, and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention ofthe owl by its chirping. 

The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhoodwhere the owls in the night are heard to "hoot. " The chances arethat the box will contain an owl on the following morning. 

This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if ouryoung reader could only catch one, and find rats and mice enoughto keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the numberof rats in his neighborhood, but he would realize a great dealof enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird. 

Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, rawmeat will answer equally well. The bird should either be kept ina cage or inclosure and in the latter case, its wings will requireto be clipped. 

THE BOX BIRD TRAP. 

Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing. Our engraving represents the arrangement of the parts as the trapappears when set. 

[Illustration]

The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box hasbeen used with excellent success, and for small birds is just thething. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge ofsome sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be doneis to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, throughthe centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To theinside centre edge of the cover a small square strap, about fourinches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjustedas that one-half shall project toward the inside of the box, asseen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through[Page 91]the slot beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now besupplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next in ordercomes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration, and it may be either cut in one piece or consist of two parts joinedtogether at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attachedand the upright portion should be just long enough to suspend thecover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap maynow be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied withthe necessary tin catch, described in the foregoing. 

THE PENDENT BOX TRAP. 

This invention is original with the author of this work, and whenproperly made and set will prove an excellent device for the captureof small birds. 

The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown inour illustration. A thin wooden box is the first requisite, itshould be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and suppliedwith a close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should thenbe perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of ventilation. 

Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to thecover and box, one on each side, as shown at (_a_. ) They should bedrawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly againstthe box. 

The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differsin construction from any other described in this book. 

It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven[Page 92]inches or so in length, depending of course upon the size of thebox. 

It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut, the longer part being six inches in length. This piece should beattached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack, as shown at (_c_), its end being bluntly pointed. Its attachmentshould be about five inches above the bottom board, and in theexact centre of the width of the back. 

[Illustration]

Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berryor other fruit, should be secured, and the further extremity ofthe stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is noweasily set. Raise the lid and lift the long stick to the positiongiven in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stickagainst that of the former, and allow the pressure of the lid tobear against the blunt point of the short stick at (_d_), as shownin the illustration, a straight dent being made in the cover toreceive it, as also in the back of the box for the other piece. If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to holdthe sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, and the trap is[Page 93]thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made willthrow the parts asunder, and the cover closes with a snap. 

The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be foundin the bearings of the bait sticks (_b_), the ends of which mustbe perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselvestogether. The box may now be suspended in a tree by the aid of astring at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alighton the perch is a sure captive, and is secured without harm. Ifdesired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover, extending to the back of the box, as seen in the initial at the headof this chapter. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies towardrelaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should be adjustedto the lower edge of the box to insure capture. 

THE HAWK TRAP. 

[Illustration]

Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory ofa recent feast has attracted it to the scene of many of[Page 94]its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwittedhis feathered foe and brought its sanguinary exploits to a timelyend. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with greatsuccess in many instances where the hawk has become a scourge to thepoultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration, consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set withstiff perpendicular pointed wires. 

This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the boardcovered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen which was tied tothe centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist. Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal consequences depicted in ourillustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by thesame device. 

THE WILD DUCK NET. 

Following will be found two examples of traps in very common usefor the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of Chesapeakebay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid. The first is the well known net trap, so extensively used in nearlyall countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish aswell as winged game. Our illustration gives a very clear idea ofthe construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almostsuperfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops coveredby a net work. From each a converging net extends backward endingin a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending[Page 95]therefrom to the next larger hoop. The depth of these convergingnets should extend backward about three or four feet from the largehoop; and the distance between these latter should be about fivefeet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, terminatingin a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. Thetrap may be set on shore or in the water as seen. "Decoy" birds aregenerally used, being enclosed in the pound. 

[Illustration]

When set on land the bait consisting of corn or other grain shouldbe spread about the entrance and through the length of the net. 

It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way withinthe netted enclosure, should be powerless to make its escape, butsuch seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflexnet, has been known to secure a number of the game. 

THE HOOK TRAP

[Illustration]

Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to excludeon account of its cruelty, but as our volume is especially devotedto traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use, we feel bound to give it a passing notice. Our illustration fullyconveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water isgenerally the scene of the slaughter. A long stout cord is firststretched across the sand and secured[Page 96]to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are attached at intervals, each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece ofthe tender rootstock of a certain water reed, of which the ducksare very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in thesand, the various baits only appearing on the surface, and thesuccess of the device is equal to its cruelty. 

THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP. 

Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one morenovel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, which formsthe subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no meanseasy of capture in any form of trap, and they are generally ascoy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold intheir familiarity and disrespect for the sombre scarecrows in thecom field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartestand shrewdest crow, and make a perfect _fool_ of him, for it ishard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by thestrange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with hishead imbedded in a cap which he finds impossible to remove, andwhich he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnasticperformance. The secret of the little contrivance is easily told. The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three orfour inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in theground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are dropped intoit. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with _bird-lime_, [Page 97]a substance of which we shall speak hereafter. 

[Illustration]

The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deepin the cone as to bring the gummy substance in contact with thefeathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite ofall possible efforts on the part of the bird to throw it off. 

The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are tobe placed in the earth, but of white paper when inserted in thesnow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones inthe fresh corn hills at planting season, as the crows are always onthe watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the temptingmorsels, not dreaming of the result. The writer has often heardof this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfullyemployed in many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunityof testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to experimentupon for themselves. 

BIRD LIME. 

This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and whichis sold in our bird marts under that name, is a viscid, stickypreparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish. It is astonishingly "sticky, " and the slightest quantity betweenthe fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. Whatits effect must be on the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined. 

[Illustration]

This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and maybe had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in any of[Page 98]our large towns or cities. Should a _home made_ article be required, an excellent substitute may be prepared from the inner bark of the"slippery elm. " This should be gathered in the spring or earlysummer, cut into very small pieces or scraped into threads, andboiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are softand easily mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boileddown, and the whole mass should then be poured into a mortar andbeaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. Whendone, the paste thus made may be put into an earthen vessel andkept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softenedover the fire, adding goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water. When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks ortwigs prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed inthe locality selected for the capture of the birds. 

An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil, by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. Thick varnisheither plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, alsoanswers the purpose very well. The limed twigs may be either setin trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground. 

If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, theymay look forward to grand success with their limed twigs. It is awell known fact in natural history that the _owl_ is the universalenemy of nearly all our smaller birds. And when, as often happens, a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb tolimb, seeming to centre on a particular tree, and filling the airwith their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepyowl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severelypecked and punished for his nightly depredations. 

Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owlwith great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of some tree, he adjusts the limed twigs on an sides, even covering the neighboringbranches with the gummy substance. No sooner is the owl spied by_one_ bird than the cry is set up, and a _score_ of foes are soonat hand, ready for battle. One by one they alight on the beguilingtwigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutterthe more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held. In this way many valuable and rare birds are often captured. 

[Page 99]THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP. 

One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to havebeen applied with success, is in the capture of humming-birds. The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grainsof wheat in the mouth until a gum is formed. It is said that byspreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily ortrumpet-creeper blossom, the capture of a humming-bird is almostcertain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after oncefairly having entered the opening. There can be no doubt but thatthis is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our readers. 

The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the factthat this is more easily removed from the feathers than the otherkinds. 

We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-birdmight be captured or kept alive, for of all birds, they are the mostfragile and delicate, and would die of _fright_, if from nothingelse. They are chiefly used for ornamental purposes, and may becaught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowerswhere the birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed inensnaring their tiny forms. 

The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussionfrom a gun loaded simply with powder, and aimed in the directionof the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground. If a strong stream of water be forced upon the little creature, asit is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same, as the feathers become so wet that it cannot fly. 

[Illustration]

[Page 101][Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS]

[Page 103]BOOK IV. 

MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS. 

THE COMMON BOX TRAP. 

[Illustration: T]he following chapter includes a variety of trapswhich have not been covered by any of the previous titles. Severalnovelties are contained in the list, and also a number of wellknown inventions. 

There is probably no more familiar example of the trap kind thanthat of the common wooden box-trap, better known, perhaps, by ourcountry boys as the rabbit-trap. A glance at our illustration, willreadily bring it to mind, and easily explain its working to thosenot particularly acquainted with it. These traps may be made of anysize, but, being usually employed in catching rabbits, require tobe made quite large. They should be made of hard seasoned wood--oakor chestnut is the best--and of slabs about an inch in thickness. The pieces may be of the following dimensions: let the bottom boardbe 20+7 in. ; side board, 20+9 in. ; lid board 19+7 in. , and theend piece of lid 7 in. Square. 

The tall end piece should be about 16 inches high by 7 broad. Letthis be sharpened on the upper end, as seen in the engraving, andfurnished with a slight groove on the summit, for the receptionof the cord. Now to put the pieces together. 

Nail the two sides to the edge of the bottom board, and fit inbetween them the high end piece, securing that also, with nailsthrough the bottom and side boards. Next nail the lid board onto the small, square end piece, and fit the lid thus made neatlyinto its place. 

To make the hinge for the lid, two small holes should be boredthrough the sides of the trap, about four inches from the tall end, and half an inch from the upper edge of each board. Let[Page 104]small nails now be driven through these holes into the edge of thelid, and it will be found to work freely upon them. 

[Illustration]

The principal part of the trap is now made, but what remains to bedone is of great importance. The "spindle" is a necessary featurein nearly all traps, and the box-trap is useless without it. Inthis case it should consist merely of a round stick of about thethickness of a lead pencil, and we will say, 7 or 8 in. In length. One end should be pointed and the other should have a small notchcut in it, as seen in the separate drawing of the stick. The spindlebeing ready, we must have some place to put it. Another hole shouldbe bored through the middle of the high end piece, and about 4 in. From the bottom. This hole should be large enough to allow thespindle to pass easily through it. If our directions have beencarefully followed, the result will now show a complete, closefittingtrap. 

In setting the trap there are two methods commonly employed, asshown at _a_ and _b_. The string, in either case, must be fastenedto the end of the lid. 

In the first instance (_a_) the lid is raised and made fast by thebrace, holding itself beneath the tip of the projecting spindle, and a nail or plug driven into the wood by the side of the hole. [Page 105]Of course, when the spindle is drawn or moved from the inside thebrace will be let loose and the lid will drop. 

In the other method (_b_) the spindle is longer, and projects severalinches on the outside of the hole. The brace is also longer, andcatches itself in the notch on the end of the spindle, and anotherslight notch in the board, a few inches above the hole. 

[Illustration]

When the bait is touched from the inside, the brace easily fliesout and the lid falls, securing its victim. Either way is sureto succeed, but if there is any preference it is for the former(_a_). It is a wise plan to have a few holes through the trap indifferent places, to allow for ventilation, and it may be foundnecessary to line the cracks with tin, as sometimes the enclosedcreature might otherwise gnaw through and make its escape. If thereis danger of the lid not closing tightly when sprung, a stone maybe fastened upon it to insure that result. 

This trap is usually set for rabbits, and these dimensions areespecially calculated with that idea. Rabbits abound in all ourwoods and thickets, and may be attracted by various baits. An appleis most generally used. The box-trap may be made of smaller dimensions, and set in trees for squirrels with very good success. 

There is still another well known form of this trap representedin the tail piece at the end of this section. The box is firstconstructed of the shape already given, only having the lid piece[Page 106]nailed firmly in the top of the box. The tall end piece is alsodone away with. The whole thing thus representing a simple oblongbox with one end open. Two slender cleats should be nailed on eachside of this opening, on the interior of the box, to form a grooveinto which a square end board may easily slide up and down, thetop board being slightly sawn away to receive it. An upright stickshould then be erected on the top centre of the box, in the tip ofwhich a straight stick should be pivoted, working easily therein, like the arms of a balance. To one end of this balance, the endboard should be adjusted by two screw eyes, and to the other thestring with spindle attached. By now lowering the spindle to itsplace, the further end of the balance will be raised and with itthe end board, and on the release of the spindle the board willfall. This plan is quite commonly adopted but we rather preferthe former. But as each has its advantages we present them both. 

ANOTHER BOX TRAP. 

This works after the manner of the ordinary wire rat-trap; ourillustration explains itself. 

[Illustration]

The box should be of the shape there shown, with one of its endpieces arranged on hinges so as to fall freely. An elastic shouldbe fastened from the inside of this end to the inner surface ofthe top of the box, to insure its closing. If desired an elasticmay be adjusted at the side as shown in the cut and a catch pieceof stout tin should be attached to the bottom of the trap to securethe lid when it falls. A small hole should then be bored in thetop, near the further end of the trap, and[Page 107]the spindle, having a notch on its upper end, passed through thehole thus made. The top of the spindle is shown at (_a_). It shouldbe held in its place by a small plug or pin through it, below thesurface of the box. A slender stick, long enough to reach and catchbeneath the notch in the spindle should now be fastened to the lidand the trap is complete. It may be baited with cheese, bread, and the like, and if set for squirrels, an apple answers everypurpose. 

When constructed on a larger and heavier scale it may be used forthe capture of rabbits and animals of a similar size, but for thispurpose the previous variety is preferable. 

THE FIGURE FOUR TRAP. 

[Illustration]

One of the most useful as well as the most ancient inventions inthe way of traps is the common _Figure Four Trap_, which formsthe subject of our next illustration. It is a very ingeniouscontrivance, and the mechanism, consists merely of three sticks. It possesses great advantages in the fact that it may be used ina variety of ways, and a number of the machines may be carried bythe young trapper with very little inconvenience. Our illustrationshows the trap already set, only awaiting for a slight touch atthe bait to bring the heavy stone to the ground. A box may besubstituted for the stone, and the animal may thus be[Page 108]captured alive. The three sticks are represented separate at _a_. _b_. And _c_. Of course, there is no regular size for them, as thiswould greatly depend upon the purpose for which they are designedto be used. If for rabbits, the following proportions will answervery well. The sticks should all be square, and about half an inchin thickness. The bait-stick, (_a_) should be about nine or teninches in length, one end being pointed and the other furnishedwith a notch, as indicated. The upright stick, (_b_) should bea little shorter, one end being whittled to a rather sharp edge. At about three or four inches from the other end, and on the sidenext to that whittled, a square notch should be cut. This shouldbe about a third of an inch in depth and half an inch in width, being so cut as exactly to receive the bait-stick without holdingit fast. The remaining stick (_c_) should have a length of aboutseven or eight inches, one end being whittled, as in the last, to an edge, and the other end furnished with a notch on the sameside of the stick. 

[Illustration]

When these are finished, the trap may be set in the following manner:Place the upright stick, (_b_) with its pointed end uppermost. Rest the notch of the slanting stick, (_c_) on the summit of theupright stick, placing the stone upon its end, and holding thestick in position with the hand. By now hooking the notch in thebait-stick on the sharpened edge of the slanting stick and fittingit into the square notch in the upright, it may easily be made tocatch and hold itself in position. The bait should always projectbeneath the stone. In case a box is used instead of a stone, thetrap may be set either inside of it or beneath its edge. Where theground is very soft, it would be well to rest the upright stickon a chip or small flat stone, as otherwise it is apt to sink intothe earth by degrees and spring by itself. 

When properly made, it is a very sure and sensitive trap, and thebait, generally an apple, or "nub" of corn is seldom more thantouched when the stone falls. 

[Page 109]THE "DOUBLE ENDER. "

[Illustration]

This is what we used to call it in New England and it was a greatfavorite among the boys who were fond of rabbit catching. It wasconstructed of four boards two feet in length by nine inches inbreath secured with nails at their edges, so as to form a longsquare box. Each end was supplied with a heavy lid working on twohinges. To each of these lids a light strip of wood was fastened, the length of each being sufficient to reach nearly to the middleof the top of the box, as seen in the illustration. At this pointa small auger hole was then made downward through the board. Acouple of inches of string was next tied to the tip of each stickand supplied with a large knot at the end. The trap was then set onthe simple principle of which there are so many examples throughoutthe pages of this work. The knots were lowered through the augerhole and the insertion of the bait stick inside the box held themin place. The edge of the bottom board on each end of the trapshould be supplied with a tin catch such as is described on page88 in order to hold the lid in place after it has fallen. No matterfrom which end the bait is approached it is no sooner touched thanboth ends fall and "_bunny_" is prisoner. Like many other of ourfour-footed game, the rabbit manifests a peculiar liking for saltand may be regularly attracted to a given spot by its aid. A saltedcotton string is sometimes extended several yards from the trapfor the purpose of leading them to it, but this seems a needlessprecaution, as the rabbit is seldom behind hand in discerning atempting bait when it is within his reach. 

[Page 110]THE SELF SETTING TRAP. 

One of the oldest known principles ever embodied in the form of atrap is that which forms the subject of the accompanying illustration. It is very simple in construction, sure in its action; and as itsname implies, resets itself after each intruder has been captured. 

[Illustration]

It is well adapted for Rabbits and Coons and when made on a smallscale, may be successfully employed in taking rats and mice. Itis also extensively used in the capture of the Mink and Muskrat, being set beneath the water, near the haunts of the animals andweighted by a large stone. Of course the size of the box will begoverned by the dimensions of the game for which it is to be set. Its general proportions should resemble those of the illustration, both ends being open. A small gate, consisting of a square pieceof wood supplied with a few stiff wires is then pivoted insideeach opening, so as to work freely and fall easily when raised. The bait is fastened inside at the centre of the box. The animal, in quest of the bait, finds an easy entrance, as the wires liftat a slight pressure, but the exit after the gate has closed isso difficult that escape is almost beyond the question. 

The wires should be so stiff as to preclude the possibility of thembeing bent by struggles of the imprisoned creature in his[Page 111]efforts to escape, and to insure further strength it is advisableto connect the lower ends of the wires by a cross piece of finerwire, twisted about each. 

The simultaneous capture of two rabbits in a trap of this kind isa common occurrence. 

THE DEAD-FALL. 

In strolling through the woods and on the banks of streams in thecountry, it is not an uncommon thing to stumble against a contrivanceresembling in general appearance our next illustration. ThroughoutNew England, the "dead-fall, " as this is called, has always beena most popular favorite among trappers, young and old; and thereis really no better rough and ready trap for large game. To entrapa fox by any device is no easy matter; but the writer remembersone case where Reynard was outwitted, and the heavy log of the"dead-fall" put a speedy end to his existence. The trap was set ina locality where the fox had made himself a nuisance by repeatednocturnal invasions among the poultry, and the bait was cleverlycalculated to decoy him. A live duck was tied within the pen, andthe morsel proved too tempting for him to resist. Thrusting hishead beneath the suspended log, in order to reach his prey, he thusthrew down the slender framework of support; and the log, fallingacross his neck, put him to death. 

[Illustration]

Our illustration gives a very correct idea of the general constructionof the "dead-fall, " although differing slightly in its mode ofsetting from that usually employed. 

[Page 112]A pen of rough sticks is first constructed, having an open front. A log about seven or eight feet in length, and five or six inchesin diameter, should then be procured. An ordinary fence rail willanswer the purpose very well, although the log is preferable. Itslarge end should be laid across the front of the pen, and two stoutsticks driven into the ground outside of it, leaving room for itto rise and fall easily between them and the pen, a second shorterlog being placed on the ground beneath it, as described for thebear-trap, page (17). A look at our illustration fully explainsthe _setting_ of the parts. A forked twig, about a foot in length, answers for the bait-stick. The lower end should be pointed, andthe fork, with its bait, should incline toward the ground, whenset. The upper end should be supplied with a notch, square sidedown, and directly above the branch which holds the bait. Anotherstraight stick, about fourteen inches in length, should then becut. Make it quite flat on each end. A small thin stone, chip ofwood, or the like, is the only remaining article required. Nowproceed to raise the log, as shown in the drawing, place one endof the straight stick beneath it, resting its tip on the flat topof the upright stick on the outside of the log. The baitstick shouldnow be placed in position inside the inclosure, resting the pointedend on the chip, and securing the notch above, as seen in theillustration, beneath the tip of the flat stick. When this is done, the trap is set, but, there are a few little hints in regard tosetting it finely, --that is, surely, --which will be necessary. It is very important to avoid bringing too much of the weight ofthe log on the flat stick, as this would of course bear heavily onthe bait-stick, and render considerable force necessary to springthe trap. The leverage at the point where the log rests on the flatstick should be very slight, and the log should be so placed thatthe upright shall sustain nearly all the weight. By this method, very little pressure is brought to bear on the bait-stick, and avery slight twitch will throw it out of poise. The fork of thebait-stick should point to the side of the inclosure, as, in thiscase, when the bait is seized by the unlucky intruder, the veryturning of the fork forces the notch from beneath the horizontalstick, and throws the parts asunder. 

If the trap is set for muskrats, minks, skunks, or animals of similarsize, the weight of the log will generally be found sufficient toeffect their death; but, if desired, a heavy stone[Page 113]may be rested against it, or the raised end weighted with otherlogs (see p. 18), to make sure. When set for a coon or fox, thisprecaution is necessary. To guard against the cunning which someanimals possess, it is frequently necessary to cover the top of thepen with cross-sticks, as there are numerous cases on record wherethe intended victims have climbed over the side of the inclosure, andtaken the bait from the inside, thus keeping clear of the suspendedlog, and springing the trap without harm to themselves. A few sticksor branches laid across the top of the inclosure will prevent anysuch capers; and the crafty animals will either have to take thebait at the risk of their lives, or leave it alone. 

For trapping the muskrat, the bait may consist of carrots, turnips, apples, and the like. For the mink, a bird's head, or the headof a fowl, is the customary bait; and the skunk may usually betaken with sweet apples, meats, or some portion of a dead fowl. 

In the case of the fox, which we have mentioned, the setting of thetrap was somewhat varied; and in case our readers might desire totry a similar experiment, we will devote a few lines to a descriptionof it. In this instance, the flat stick which supported the log wasnot more than eight inches in length; and instead of the bait-stick, a slight framework of slender branches was substituted. This frame orlattice-work was just large enough to fill the opening of the pen, and its upper end supported the flat stick. The duck was fastenedto the back part of the pen, which was also closed over the top. The quacking of the fowl attracted the fox; and as he thrust hishead through the lattice to reach his prey, the frame was thrownout of balance and Reynard paid the price of his greed and folly. 

There is another mode of adjusting the pieces of the dead-fall, commonly employed by professional trappers, whereby the trap is sprungby the foot of the animal in quest of the bait. This constructionis shown correctly in the accompanying cut, which gives the frontview, the pen being made as before. The stout crotch representedat (_a_) is rested on the summit of a strong peg, driven into theground beneath the _outside edge_ of the suspended log; (_b_) isthe treacherous stick which seals the doom of any animal that daresrest his foot upon it. This piece should be long enough to stretchacross and overlap the guard-pegs at each side of the opening. Toset the trap, rest the short crotch of (_a_) on the top of thepeg, and lower the log upon it, keeping the leverage slight, asdirected in our last example, letting much of the weight come on the[Page 114]top of the peg. The long arm of the crotch should be pressed inwardfrom the front, and one end of the stick (_b_) should then be caughtbetween its extreme tip, and the upright peg about ten inches abovethe ground. By now fastening the bait to a peg at the back part ofthe pen, the affair is in working order, and will be found perfectlyreliable. The ground log (_d_) being rested in place as seen inthe illustration. To make assurance doubly sure, it is well to cuta slight notch in the upright stick at (_c_) for the reception ofthe foot-piece (_b_). By this precaution the stick, when lowered, is bound to sink at the right end, thus ensuring success. 

[Illustration]

The Figure-Four Trap, already described in another part of thisbook, is also well adapted to the dead-fall, and is much used. It should be made of stout pieces and erected at the opening ofthe pen, with the bait pointing toward the interior, the heavylog being poised on its summit. 

THE GARROTE. 

There is another variety of trap, somewhat resembling the dead-fall, but which seizes its prey in a little different manner. [Page 115]This trap, which we will call the _Garrote_, is truly representedby our illustration. A pen is first constructed, similar to that ofthe dead-fall. At the opening of the pen, two arches are fastenedin the ground. They should be about an inch apart. A stout forkedstick should then be cut, and firmly fixed in the earth at theside of the arches, and about three feet distant. 

[Illustration]

Our main illustration gives the general appearance of the trap, but we also subjoin an additional cut, showing the "setting" orarrangement of the pieces. They are three in number, and consist:First, of a notched peg, which is driven into the ground at the backpart of the pen, and a little to one side. Second, of a forked twig, the branch of which should point downward with the bait attached toits end. The third stick being the little hooked piece catchingbeneath the arches. The first of these is too simple to needdescription. The second should be about eight inches long; a notchshould be cut in each end. The upper one being on the side fromwhich the branch projects, and the other on the _opposite_ sideof the stick, and at the other end, as is made plain by ourillustration. The third stick may consist merely of a hooked crotchof some twig, as this is always to be found. Indeed, nearly _all_the parts of this trap may be found in any woods; and, with theexception of a jack-knife, bait, and string, the trapper need nottrouble himself to carry any materials whatever. When the threepieces are thus made the trap only awaits the "Garrote. " This shouldbe made from a stiff pole, about six feet in length, having a heavystone tied to its large end, and a loop of the shape of the letterU, or a slipping noose, made of stout cord or wire, fastened[Page 116]at the smaller end. To arrange the pieces for their destructivework, the pole should be bent down so that the loop shall fallbetween the arches. The "crotch stick" should then be hooked beneaththe front of the arch, letting its arm point inward. After thisthe bait stick should be placed in its position, with the baitpointing downward, letting one end catch beneath the notch in theground-peg, and the other over the tip of the crotch stick. Thisdone, and the trap is set. 

[Illustration]

Like the dead-fall, the bait stick should point toward the sideof the pen, as the turning involved in pulling it toward the frontis positively _sure_ to slip it loose from its catches. Be carefulto see that the loop is nicely arranged between the arches, and thatthe top of the pen is covered with a few twigs. If these directionsare carefully followed, and if the young trapper has selected agood trapping ground, it will not be a matter of many days beforehe will discover the upper portion of the arches occupied by somerabbit, muskrat, or other unlucky creature, either standing on itshind legs, or lifted clean off the ground. Coons are frequentlysecured by this trap, although, as a general thing, they don'tshow much enthusiasm over traps of any kind, and seem to preferto get their food elsewhere, rather than take it off the end ofa bait stick. 

THE BOW TRAP. 

This most excellent and unique machine is an invention of the author's, and possesses great advantages, both on account of its durabilityand of the speedy death which it inflicts. 

[Illustration]

Procure a board about two feet in length, by five or six in width, and commencing at about nine inches from one end, cut a hole fouror more inches square. This may readily be done with a narrow saw, by first boring a series of gimlet holes in which to insert it. There will now be nine inches of board on one side of the holeand eleven on the other. The shorter end constituting the top ofthe trap. On the upper edge of the hole[Page 117]a row of stout tin teeth should be firmly tacked, as seen in theillustration. On the other side of the cavity, and three inchesfrom it a small auger hole (the size of a lead pencil), shouldbe bored. After which it should be sand-papered and polished onthe interior, by rubbing with some smooth, hard tool, insertedinside. A round plug of wood should next be prepared. Let it beabout half an inch in length, being afterwards bevelled nearlythe whole length of one side, as shown at (_b_), leaving a littleover an eighth of an inch of the wood unwhittled. This little pieceof wood is the most important part, of the trap, and should be madevery carefully. The remaining end of the board below the augerhole should now be whittled off to a point, in order that it may bedriven into the ground. The next requisites consist of two piecesof wood, which are seen at the sides of the square hole, in ourillustration, and also seen at (_c_), side view. These[Page 118]pieces should be about six inches in length and about an inch square. A thin piece being cut off from one side of each, to the distanceof four inches, and ending in a square notch. The other end shouldbe rounded off, as is also there plainly indicated. Before adjustingthe pieces in place, two tin catches should be fastened to theboard, one on each side of the hole. This catch is shown at (_d_), and consists merely of a piece of tin, half an inch in width, andthree-quarters of an inch in length, tacked to the wood, and havingits end raised, as indicated. Its object is to hold the bow-stringfrom being pulled down after once passing it. The upper edge ofthese catch-pieces should be about an inch and a half from the topof the hole, and, if desired, two or three of them may be arrangedone above the other, so that wherever the string may stop againstthe neck of the inmate it will be sure to hold. The catches beingin place, proceed to adjust the pieces of wood, letting the notchbe on a line with the top of the pole, or a little above it. Eachpiece should be fastened with two screws to make secure. 

We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should beabout six inches in length, and square, as our illustration shows. There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, bothshown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screweye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to theboard by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case, should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method(_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spotfor the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inchfrom the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be madeby the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cutin the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. Astout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole inthe stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, itshould be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. Thisforms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place forthe catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into theauger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at thepoint where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cuta square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow. This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to haveit seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose verywell. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavystaples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string shouldbe _heavy_ Indian twine. Our[Page 119]illustration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business. The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled facedownward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string andpass it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip ofthe latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructedthe string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the underside of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushedwhen approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and thestring flies up with a _twang!_ securing the neck of its victim, and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, thebait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, andthus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releasesit, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait ispushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure tospring. 

In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insertit into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, inorder that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying astone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the baitmay be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is requiredin setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be_very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch inthe bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All thisis made clear in our illustration (_b_). 

By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure andsensitive. 

Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like. 

THE MOLE TRAP. 

If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmershas been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which wouldeffectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin. Many patented devices of this character are on the market, andmany odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds ofthe illustrated press, but they all sink into insignificance whentested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among moletraps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost. The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap onpage 120. 

Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, andeight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavatedwith a large auger is just the thing. Through[Page 120]the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a leadpencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half aninch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for thepassage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stoutsteel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length, inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after themanner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required. A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and aninch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set asdescribed in the other instances, and as the introduction of thespindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to itsposition inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimescut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. Thetrap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Finda fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert thetrap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his roundsthrough that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which sidehe may approach. 

Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in asingle season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantagesover all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailingsuccess. 

A FISH TRAP. 

Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, andalthough we have mentioned some contrivances in this line underour article on "Fishing" we here present one which is both newand novel. 

[Illustration]

Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare, page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should firstbe obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends, a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument, the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe, thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside, as seen in our illustration. The diameter of the aperture[Page 121]should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upperside_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_through the side of the circumference, for the admission of a stoutstick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our illustration. Thefurther arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identicalwith that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel, and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficientfirmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait shouldbe firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooksat the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap, select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottomof the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses. 

By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may beeasily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a multitudeof small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot, and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised fromthe water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention ofthe author's, and it is as successful as it is unique. 

[Illustration: Maternal advice. ]

[Page 123][Illustration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]

[Page 125]BOOK V. 

HOUSEHOLD TRAPS. 

[Illustration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on recordsee our page title to this section. There are several others alsowhich have done good service in many households, and for the sakeof pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volumefor their especial benefit. 

Foremost in the list of domestic pests the rat stands pre-eminent, and his proverbial shrewdness and cunning render his capture oftena very difficult, if not an impossible task. We subjoin, however, a few hints and suggestions of practical value, together with someperfected ideas in the shape of traps, by which the average ratmay be easily outwitted and led to his destruction. 

First on the list is

THE BARREL TRAP. 

This most ingenious device possesses great advantages in itscapabilities of securing an almost unlimited number of the verminin quick succession. It also takes care of itself, requires nore-baiting or setting after once put in working order, and is suredeath to its prisoners. 

A water-tight barrel is the first thing required. Into this pourwater to the depth of a foot. Next dampen a piece of very thickpaper, and stretch it over the top of the barrel, tying it securelybelow the upper hoops. When the paper dries it will become thoroughlyflat and tightened. Its surface should then be strewn with bitsof cheese, etc. , and the barrel so placed[Page 126]that the rats may jump upon it from some neighboring surface. Assoon as the bait is gone, a fresh supply should be spread on thepaper and the same operation repeated for several days, until therats get accustomed to visit the place for their regular rations, fearlessly and without suspicion. This is "half the battle, " andthe capture of the greedy victims of misplaced confidence is nowan easy matter. The bait should again be spread as before and afew pieces of the cheese should be attached to the paper with gum. It is a good plan to smear parts of the paper with gum arabic, sprinkling the bait upon it. When dry, cut a cross in the middleof the paper, as seen in the illustration, and leave the barrelto take care of itself and the rats. The first one comes along, spies the tempting morsels, and with his accustomed confidence, jumps upon the paper. He suddenly finds himself in the water atthe bottom of the barrel, and the paper above has closed and isready to practice its deception on the next comer. There is notlong to wait. A second victim soon tumbles in to keep company withthe first. A third and a fourth soon follow, and a dozen or more[Page 127]are sometimes thus entrapped in a very short space of time. It is amost excellent and simple trap, and if properly managed, will mosteffectually curtail the number of rats in any pestered neighborhood. 

[Illustration]

By some, it is considered an improvement to place in the bottomof the barrel a large stone, which shall project above the watersufficiently to offer a foothold for one rat. The first victim, of course, takes possession of this retreat and on the precipitatearrival of the second a contest ensues for its occupancy. The hubbubwhich follows is said to attract all the rats in the neighborhoodto the spot, and many are thus captured. 

We can hardly recommend the addition of the stone as being animprovement. The rat is a most notoriously shrewd and cunning animal, and the despairing cries of his comrades must rather tend to excitehis caution and suspicion. By the first method the drowning is soonaccomplished and the rat utters no sound whereby to attract andwarn his fellows. This contrivance has been thoroughly tested andhas proved its efficacy in many households by completely riddingthe premises of the vermin. 

Another excellent form of Barrel Trap is that embodying the principledescribed in page (131). A circular platform should be first constructedand hinged in the opening of the barrel This may be done by drivinga couple of small nails through the sides of the barrel into acouple of staples inserted near the opposite edges of the platform. The latter should be delicately weighted, as described on the abovementioned page, and previously to setting, should be baited in astationary position for several days to gain the confidence ofthe rats. The bait should at last be secured to the platform withgum, and the bottom of the barrel of course filled with water, asalready described. This trap possesses the same advantages as theforegoing. It is _self-setting_, and unfailing in its action. 

Another method consists in half-filling the barrel with oats, andallowing the rats to enjoy their repast there for several days. When thus attracted to the spot, remove the oats, and pour the samebulk of water into the barrel, sprinkling the surface thickly withthe grain. The delusion is almost perfect, as will be effectuallyproven when the first rat visits the spot for his accustomed freelunch. Down he goes with a splash, is soon drowned, and sinks tothe bottom. The next shares the same fate, and several more arelikely to be added to the list of misguided victims. 

[Page 128]Many of the devices described throughout this work may be adaptedfor domestic use to good purpose. The box-trap page 103, box-snare, page 55, figure-four, page 107, are all suitable for the captureof the rat; also, the examples given on pages 106, 109, 110, and129. 

The steel-trap is often used, but should always be concealed fromview. It is a good plan to set it in a pan covered with meal, andplaced in the haunts of the rats. The trap may also be set at themouth of the rats' hole, and covered with a piece of dark-coloredcloth or paper. The runways between boxes, boards, and the likeoffer excellent situations for the trap, which should be covered, as before directed. 

Without one precaution, however, the trap may be set in vain. Muchof the so-called shrewdness of the rat is nothing more than aninstinctive caution, through the acute sense of smell which theanimal possesses; and a trap which has secured one victim willseldom extend its list, unless all traces of its first occupantare thoroughly eradicated. This may be accomplished by smokingthe trap over burning paper, hens' feathers or chips, taking careto avoid a heat so extreme as to affect the temper of the steelsprings. All rat-traps should be treated the same way, in order toinsure success, and the position and localities of setting shouldbe frequently changed. 

THE BOX DEAD-FALL. 

[Illustration]

This trap is an old invention, simplified by the author, and forthe capture of rats and mice will prove very effectual. It consistsof a box, constructed of four slabs of 3-4 inch boarding, and openat both ends. The two side boards should be 10 x 18 inches; topand bottom boards, 6 x 18 inches. For the centre of the latter, a square piece should be removed by the aid of the saw. The widthof this piece should be four inches, and the length eight inches. Before nailing the boards together, the holes thus left in thebottom board should be supplied with a treadle platform, workingon central side pivots. The board for this treadle should be muchthinner and lighter than the rest of the trap, and should fit looselyin place, its surface being slightly below the level of the bottomboard. This is shown in the interior of the trap. The pivots shouldbe inserted in the exact centre of the sides, through holes madein the edge of the bottom board. These holes may be bored witha gimlet or burned with a red-hot wire. The pivots may[Page 129]consist of stout brass or iron wire; and the end of one shouldbe flattened with the hammer, as seen in (_a_). This pivot shouldproject an inch from the wood, and should be _firmly_ insertedin the treadle-piece. The platform being thus arranged, proceedto fasten the boards together, as shown in the illustration, thetop and bottom boards overlapping the others. We will now giveour attention to the stick shown at (_b_). This should be whittledfrom a piece of hard wood, its length being three inches, and itsupper end pointed as seen. The lower end should be pierced with acrevice, which should then be forced over the flattened extremityof the point (_a_) as shown at (_c_), pointed end uppermost. Theweight (_d_) is next in order. This should consist of a heavy oakplank two inches in thickness, and of such other dimensions as willallow it to fit loosely in the box, and fall from top to bottomtherein without catching between two sides. A stout staple shouldbe driven in the centre of its upper face, and from this a stoutstring should be passed upward through a hole in the centre ofthe box. We are now ready for the spindle (_e_). This should beabout three inches in length, and bluntly pointed[Page 130]at each end, a notch being made to secure it at a point five inchesabove the pivot (_c_). To set the trap, raise the weight, as seenin the illustration; draw down the string to the point (_e_), andattach it to the spindle one-half an inch from its upper end, whichshould then be inserted in the notch, the lower end being caughtagainst the extremity of the pivot stick. The parts are now adjusted, and even in the present state the trap is almost sure to spring atthe slightest touch on the treadle-piece. An additional precautionis advisable, however. Two small wooden pegs (_f_) should be driven, one on each side of the spindle, thus preventing any side-movementof the latter. It will now be readily seen that the slightest weighton either end of the treadle-piece within the trap must tilt itto one side, thus throwing the pivot-piece from its bearing onthe spindle; and the latter being released, lets fall the weightwith crushing effect upon the back of its hapless victim. 

The trap is very effective, and is easily constructed. The baitshould be rested in the centre of the treadle platform. Built ona larger scale, this device may be successfully adapted to thecapture of the mink, martien, and many other varieties of game. 

THE BOARD-FLAP. 

[Illustration]

[Page 131]For the capture of mice this is both a simple and effective contrivance, and it may be enlarged so as to be of good service for larger animals. Procure two boards, one foot square and one inch thick, and securethem together by two hinges, as in the illustration. Assuming oneas the upper board, proceed to bore a gimlet hole three inchesfrom the hinges. This is for the reception of the bait stick, andshould be cut away on the inside, as seen in the section (_a_), thus allowing a free play for the stick. Directly beneath thisaperture, and in the lower board, a large auger hole should be made. A stout bit of iron wire, ten inches in length, is now required. This should be inserted perpendicularly in the further end of thelower slab, being bent into a curve which shall slide easily througha gimlet hole in the edge of the upper board. This portion is veryimportant, and should be carefully constructed. The bait stickshould be not more than three inches in length, supplied with anotch in its upper end, and secured in the aperture in the board bythe aid of a pivot and staples, as is clearly shown in our drawing. The spindle is next in order. It should consist of a light pieceof pine eight and a half inches in length, and brought to an edgeat each end. A tack should now be driven at the further edge ofthe upper board on a line with the aperture through which the wirepasses. Our illustration represents the trap as it appears whenset. The upper band is raised to the full limit of the wire. Oneend of the spindle is now adjusted beneath the head of the tack, and the other in the notch in the bait stick. The wire thus supportsthe suspended board by sustaining the spindle, which is held inequilibrium. A slight touch on the bait stick soon destroys thisequilibrium: a flap ensues, and a dead mouse is the result. Theobject of the auger hole in the lower board consists in affording areceptacle for the bait when the boards come together, as otherwiseit would defeat its object, by offering an obstruction to the fallof the board, and thus allow its little mouse to escape. 

It is, therefore, an essential part of the trap, and should be carefullytested before being finally set. 

THE BOX PIT-FALL. 

We now come to a variety of trap which differs in its constructionfrom any previously described. It secures its victims alive, andwithout harm, and, when well made, is very successful. [Page 132]It may be set for squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice, and the like, and on a large scale for muskrats and mink. 

[Illustration]

The trap is very easily made, and is represented in section inour illustration, showing the height and interior of the box. Forordinary purposes the box should be about twelve or fourteen inchessquare, with a depth of about eighteen inches. A platform consistingof a piece of tin should then be procured. This should be justlarge enough to fit nicely to the outline of the interior of thebox without catching. On two opposite sides of this piece of tin, and at the middle of each of those sides, a small strip of thesame material should be wired, or soldered in the form of a loop, as shown in the separate diagram at (_b_). These loops should beonly large enough to admit the end of a shingle-nail. A scratchshould now be made across the tin from loop to loop, and on thecentre of this scratch another and larger strip of tin should befastened in a similar manner as shown in our diagram, at (_a_), this being for the balance weight. The[Page 133]latter may consist of a small stone, piece of lead, or the like, and should be suspended by means of a wire bent around it, andsecured in a hole in the tin by a bend or knot in the other extremity. Further explanations are almost superfluous, as our main illustrationfully explains itself. 

[Illustration]

After the weight is attached, the platform should be secured inits place, about five inches from the top of the box. To accomplishthis and form the hinges, two shingle-nails should be driven throughthe side of the box into the tin loops prepared for them. To dothis nicely requires some considerable accuracy and care, and itshould be so done that the platform will swing with perfect freedomand ease, the weight below bringing it to a horizontal poise aftera few vibrations. Care should be taken that the weight is not tooheavy, as, in such a case, the platform will not be sensitive on itsbalance, and, consequently, would not work so quickly and surely. The weight should be _just heavy enough_ to restore the platformto its perfect poise, and no more. This can be easily regulatedby experiment. The bait should then be strewn on both sides of theplatform, when the trap is set, and the luckless animal, jumpingafter the bait, feels his footing give way, and suddenly findshimself in the bottom of a dark box, from which it is impossiblefor him to escape except by gnawing his way out. To prevent this, the interior of the box may be lined with tin. 

By _fastening_ the bait--a small lump or piece--on each side ofthe tin, the trap will continually reset itself, and, in this way, two or three individuals may be taken, one after the other. Muskratsare frequently caught in this trap, it being generally buried inthe ground so that its top is on a level with the surface. In thiscase it is necessary to arrange the platform lower down in thebox, and the latter should be of much larger dimensions than theone we have described. 

[Page 134]For ordinary purposes the box should either be set in the ground orplaced near some neighboring object which will afford easy accessto it. No less than a dozen rats have been caught in a trap ofthis kind in a single night. 

CAGE TRAP. 

[Illustration]

The common cage trap is well known to most of our readers, and forthe capture of rats and mice, it is one of the most efficaciousdevices in existence. The construction of one of these traps isquite a difficult operation, and we would hesitate before advisingour inventive reader to exercise his patience and ingenuity in themanufacture of an article which can be bought for such a smallprice, and which, after all, is only a mouse trap. If it were adevice for the capture of the _mink_ or _otter_, it might then bewell worth the trouble, and would be likely to repay the time andlabor expended upon it. We imagine that few would care to exercisetheir skill over a trap of such complicated structure, while ourpages are filled with other simpler and equally effective examples. 

For the benefit, however, of such as are of an inventive turn ofmind, we subjoin an illustration of the trap to serve as a guide. The principle upon which it works is very simple. The bait is[Page 135]strewn inside the cage, and the rats or mice find their only accessto it through the hole at the top. The wires here converge at thebottom, and are pointed at the ends. The passage downwards is aneasy matter, but to _escape_ through the same opening is impossible, as the pointed ends of the wires effectually prevent the ascent. It is a notable fact, however, that the efforts to escape throughthis opening are very seldom made. The mode of entering seems tobe absolutely forgotten by the captive animals, and they rushfrantically about the cage, prying between all the wires in theirwild endeavors, never seeming to notice the central opening by whichthey entered. This is easily explained by the fact that the opengrating admits the light from all sides, and the enclosed victimsare thus attracted to no one spot in particular, and naturally rushto the extreme edges of the trap, in the hope of finding an exit. 

If a thick cloth be placed over the cage, leaving the opening atthe top uncovered, the confined creatures are soon attracted bythe light, and lose no time in rushing towards it, where theirendeavors to ascend are effectually checked by the pointed wires. Profiting by this experiment, the author once improvised a simpletrap on the same principle, which proved very effectual. We willcall it

THE JAR TRAP. 

In place of the wire cage, a glass preserve-jar was substituted. A few bits of cheese were then dropped inside, and the top of afunnel inserted into the opening above. This completed the trap, and it was set on the floor near the flour barrel. On the followingmorning the jar was occupied by a little mouse, and each successivenight for a week added one to the list of victims. A stiff pieceof tin, bent into the required shape, may be substituted for thefunnel top, or even a very heavy piece of pasteboard might answer. 

BOWL TRAPS. 

Very effective extempore traps may be set up in a few minutes bythe use of a few bowls. There are two methods commonly employed. One consists of the bowl and a knife-blade. An ordinary tableknifeis used and a piece of cheese is firmly forced on to the end ofthe blade, the bowl is then balanced on the edge, allowing thebait to project about an inch and a half beneath the bowl. The odorof cheese will attract a mouse almost anywhere, and he soon finds[Page 136]his way to the tempting morsel in this case. A very slight nibbleis sufficient to tilt the blade and the bowl falls over its prisoner. 

In the second method a thimble is used in place of the knife. Thecheese is forced into its interior, and the open end of the thimbleinserted far beneath the bowl, allowing about half its length toproject outward. 

The mouse is thus obliged to pass under the bowl in order to reachthe bait, and in his efforts to grasp the morsel, the thimble isdislodged and the captive secured beneath the vessel. Where a smallthimble is used, it becomes necessary to place a bit of pasteboardor flat chip beneath it, in order to raise it sufficiently to affordan easy passage for the mouse. Both of these devices are said towork excellently. 

FLY PAPER. 

A sheet of common paper, smeared with a mixture composed of molassesone part, and bird-lime six parts (see page 97), will be found toattract large numbers of flies and hold them prisoners upon itssurface. 

Spruce gum, warmed on the fire, and mixed with a little linseedoil, is also excellent. For a genuine fly trap, the following standsunrivalled. 

FLY TRAP. 

Take a tumbler, and half-fill it with strong soap suds. Cut a circleof stiff paper which will exactly fit into the top of the glass. In the centre of the paper cut a hole half an inch in diameter, or, better still, a slice of bread may be placed on the glass. Smear one side of the disc with molasses, and insert it in thetumbler with this side downward. Swarms of flies soon surroundit, and one by one find their way downward through the hole. Oncebelow the paper, and their doom is sealed. For a short time themolasses absorbs their attention, and they, in turn, absorb themolasses. 

In their efforts to escape, they one by one precipitate themselvesin the soap suds below, where they speedily perish. The tumbleris soon half-filled with the dead insects, and where a number ofthe traps are set in a single room, the apartment is soon riddenof the pests. 

[Illustration: STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. ]

[Page 137]BOOK VI. 

STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING. 

[Illustration: P]assing from our full and extended illustrated listof extempore, or "rough and ready" examples of the trap kind, wewill now turn our attention to the consideration of that well-knownimplement, the trade _steel_ trap. Although the foregoing varietiesoften serve to good purpose, the Steel Trap is the principal deviceused by professional trappers, and possesses great advantages overall other traps. It is portable, sets easily and quickly, either onland or beneath the water; can be concealed with ease; secures itsvictims without injury to their fur, and by the application of thespring or sliding pole (hereafter described) will most effectuallyprevent the captive from making his escape by self-amputation, besidesplacing him beyond the reach of destruction by other animals. 

The author has known trappers who have plied their vocation largelyby the aid of the various hand made traps, described in the earlierpages of this book, and with good success. But in the regular _business_of systematic trapping, their extensive use is not common. Theexperience of modern trappers generally, warrants the assertionthat for practical utility, from every point of view, the steeltrap stands unrivalled. 

These traps are made of all sizes, from that suitable for the captureof the house rat, to the immense and wieldy machine adapted to thegrizzly, and known as the "bear tamer. "

They may be bought at almost any hardware shop, although a largeportion of the traps ordinarily sold are defective. They shouldbe selected with care, and the springs always tested[Page 138]before purchase. Besides the temper of the spring, there are alsoother necessary qualities in a steel trap, which we subjoin inorder that the amateur may know how to judge and select his weaponsjudiciously. 

[Illustration]

REQUISITES OF A GOOD STEEL TRAP. 

1. _The jaws should not be too thin nor sharp cornered_. In thecheaper class of steel traps the jaws approach to the thinnessof sheet-iron, and the result is that the thin edges often severthe leg of their would-be captive in a single stroke. At othertimes the leg is so deeply cut as to easily enable the animal tognaw or twist it off. This is the common mode of escape, with manyanimals. 

2. _The pan should not be too large_. This is a very common faultwith many steel traps and often defeats its very object. Where thepan is small, the foot of the animal in pressing it, will be directlyin the centre of the snap of the jaw, and he is thus firmly securedfar up on the leg. On the other hand, a large pan nearly fillingthe space between the jaws as the trap is set, may be sprung by atouch on its extreme edge, and the animal's toe is thus likely toget slightly pinched, if indeed the paw is not thrown off altogetherby the forcible snap of the jaw. 

3. _The springs should be strong, scientifically tempered, andproportioned_. The strength of a perfectly tempered spring willalways remain the same, whether in winter or summer, never losingits elasticity. The best of tempering, however, is useless in aspring badly formed or clumsily tapered. 

4. The jaws should be so curved as to give the bow of the springa proper sweep to work upon. The jaws should lie _flat_ when open, and should always work easily on their hinges. 

5. Every trap should be furnished with a strong chain with ring andswivel attached, and in every case the swivel should turn easily. 

The celebrated "Newhouse Trap" embodies all the above requisites, and has deservedly won a reputation for excellence second to noother in this or any other country. 

They are made in eight sizes, as follows:

[Illustration: No. 0. ]

This is the smallest size and is known as the RAT TRAP. It has asingle spring, and the jaws spread three and a half inches whenset. 

[Page 139][Illustration]

[Page 141][Illustration: No. 1. ]

This size is called the MUSKRAT TRAP, and the jaws spread fourinches. It is especially designed for the capture of the mink, marten, and animals of similar size. 

[Illustration: No. 2. ]

This is known in the trade as the MINK TRAP, and the jaws spreadnearly five inches. It is adapted for the fox, raccoon, or fisher. 

[Illustration: No. 2-1/2. ]

This size is called the FOX TRAP. The spread of the jaws is thesame as in the foregoing, but the trap is provided with two springs, and consequently has double the power. It is strong enough forthe otter, and is generally used for the capture of the fox andfisher. 

[Illustration: No. 3. ]

No. 3 goes by the name of the OTTER TRAP. The jaws spread five anda half inches, and the powerful double springs do excellent servicein the capture of the beaver, fox, badger, opossum, wild cat, andanimals of like size. 

[Illustration: No. 4. ]

Commonly called the BEAVER TRAP. Jaws spread six and a half inches. This size is especially adapted to the wolf, lynx or wolverine. Itmay also be set for deer, and extra sets of jaws are made expresslyfor this purpose, being easily inserted in the place of the ordinaryjaws, when desired. 

[Page 142][Illustration: No. 6. ]

This is known as the "GREAT BEAR TAMER, " and is a most formidableweapon. The jaws spread sixteen inches, and the weight of the machineis forty-two pounds. It is extensively used in the capture of themoose and grizzly bear, and is the largest and most powerful steeltrap made in this or any other country. The springs possess mosttremendous power, and require to be set by a lever, as the weightof an ordinary man has not the slightest effect upon them. Thislever may be easily applied, as follows: Have at hand four stoutstraps, supplied with buckles. These should always be carried bythe trapper, where the larger double-spring traps are used. Toadjust the lever, cut four heavy sticks about three feet long. Take two of them and secure their ends together, side by side, with one of the straps. Now insert the spring of the trap betweenthem, near the strap. Bear down heavily on the other extremity ofthe lever, and the spring will be found to yield easily, afterwhich the remaining ends of the levers should be secured by a secondstrap. The other spring should now be treated in the same way, after which the jaws should be spread and the pan adjusted. Theremoval of the straps and levers is now an easy matter, after which[Page 143]the trap is set. The stoutest spring is easily made to yield by suchtreatment. 

[Illustration: No. 5. ]

The SMALL BEAR TRAP. The jaws of this size spread nearly a foot, and the weight of the trap is seventeen pounds. It is used in thecapture of the black bear, puma, and animals of similar size. 

All of the foregoing are supplied with swivels and chains. 

HINTS ON BAITING THE STEEL TRAP. 

[Illustration]

There is a very common and erroneous idea current among amateursportsmen and others in regard to the baiting of the steel trap;viz. , that the pan of the trap is intended for the _bait_. Thiswas the old custom in the traps of bygone times, but no moderntrap is intended to be so misused, and would indeed often defeatits object in such a case, wherein it will be easily[Page 144]seen. The object of the professional trapper is the acquisitionof furs; and a prime fur skin should be without break or bruise, from nose to tail. A trap set as above described, would of coursecatch its victim by the head or neck, and the fur would be moreor less injured at the very spot where it should be particularlyfree from blemish. 

The true object of the steel trap is, that it shall take the animalby the _leg_, thus injuring the skin only in a part where it istotally valueless. 

We give, then, this imperative rule--_Never bait a steel trap onthe pan_. 

The pan is intended for the _foot_ of the game, and in order toinsure capture by this means, the bait should be so placed as thatthe attention of the animal will be _drawn away_ from the trap;the latter being in such a position as will cause the victim to_step in it_ when reaching for the tempting allurement. 

There are several ways of doing this, one of which we here illustrate. 

A pen of stakes, in the shape of the letter V, is first constructed. The trap is then set in the angle, and the bait attached to theend stake directly over it. Another method is shown in the pictureon our title-page to this section, the bait being suspended on astick above the trap. There are various other methods on the sameprinciple, which will be described hereafter, under the titles ofthe various game. 

THE SPRING POLE. 

[Illustration]

This is nearly always used in connection with the steel trap, inthe capture of the smaller land animals. It not only lifts thecreature into the air, and thus prevents its becoming a prey toother animals, but it also guards against the escape of the victimby the amputation of its own leg. This is a very common mode ofrelease with many kinds of game--notably the mink, marten, andmuskrat; and for the successful trapping of these, as well as manyother animals, the spring and sliding pole are absolute necessities. It is a simple contrivance, consisting merely of a pole insertedin the ground near the trap. The pole is then bent down, and thetrap chain secured to its end. A small, notched peg is next driveninto the ground and the top of the pole caught in it, and thusheld in a bent position. When the animal is caught, its strugglesrelease the pole, and the latter, flying up with a jerk, [Page 145]lifts the trap and its occupant high in the air, out of the reachof marauders, and beyond the power of escape by self-amputation. Even in the capture of large game the spring pole often serves togood purpose. The struggles of a heavy animal are often so violentas to break a stout trap or chain; and the force of the springpole, although not sufficient to raise the animal from its feet, often succeeds in easing the strain, and often thus saves a trapfrom being broken to pieces. The power of the pole must of coursebe proportionate to the weight of the desired game. 

THE SLIDING POLE. 

[Illustration]

The first impulse with almost every aquatic animal when caught ina trap, is to plunge headlong into deep water. With the smalleranimals, such as the mink and muskrat, this is all that is desired bythe trapper, as the weight of the trap with the chain is sufficientto drown its victim. But with larger animals, the beaver and otterfor instance, an additional precaution, in the shape of the "slidingpole, " is necessary. This consists of a pole about ten feet long, smoothly trimmed of its branches, excepting at the tip, where afew stubs should be left. Insert this end obliquely into the bedof the stream, where the water is[Page 146]deep, and secure the large end to the bank by means of a hookedstick, as seen in our illustration. The ring of the chain shouldbe large enough to slide easily down the entire length of the pole. When the trap is set, the ring should be slipped on the large endof the pole, and held in place by resting a stick against it. Theanimal, when caught, plunges off into deep water, and guided bythe pole, is led to the bottom of the river. The ring slides downto the bed of the stream, and there holds its victim until drowned. 

THE CLOG. 

A trap which is set for heavy game should never be secured to astake. Many of the larger and more powerful animals when caughtin a trap thus secured, are apt either to pull or twist their legsoff, or break both trap and chain to pieces. To guard against this, the chain should be weighted with a pole or small log, of a sizeproportionate to the dimensions of the game, its weight being merelysufficient to offer a serious incumbrance to the animal, withoutpositively checking its movements. This impediment is called the"clog, " and is usually attached to the ring of the trap chain byits larger end, the ring being slipped over the latter, and securedin place by a wedge. A look at our frontispiece will give a clearidea of both clog and attachment. 

[Page 147]THE GRAPPLING IRON. 

[Illustration]

This answers the same purpose as the above, and is often used instead. It is manufactured in connection with the larger steel traps, andis attached to the chain by a swivel joint. Its general shape isshown in an engraving, and it offers a serious resistance to thevictim, who endeavors to run away with it. 

THE SEASON FOR TRAPPING. 

The business of trapping for profit must be confined to the seasonbetween the first of October and the beginning of May, as fursof all kinds are worthless when taken during the other months ofthe year. The reason for this is obvious. A "_prime fur_" must be"_thick_" and "_full_, " and as all our fur-bearing animals shedtheir heavy winter coats as warm weather approaches, it necessarilyfollows that the capture at this season would be unprofitable. Asthe autumn approaches the new growth appears, and the fur becomesthick and glossy. By the middle of October most furs are in theirprime, but the heart of winter is the best time for general trapping. [Page 148]The furs of the mink, muskrat, fisher, marten and beaver are not intheir perfect prime until this season. And _all_ other furs are_sure_ to be in good condition at this time. 

THE ART OF TRAPPING. 

From time immemorial, and in every nation of the world, the artof trapping has been more or less practised. By some as a meansof supplying their wants in the shape of daily food, and by othersfor the purpose of merchandise or profit. 

To be a clever and successful trapper, much more is required thanis generally supposed. The mere fact of a person's being able toset a trap cleverly and judiciously forms but a small part of hisproficiency; and unless he enters deeper into the subject and learnssomething of the nature and habits of the animals he intends tocatch, his traps will be set in vain, or at best meet with butindifferent success. The study of natural history here becomesa matter of necessity as well as pleasure and profit. And unlessthe trapper thoroughly acquaints himself with the habits of hisvarious game, the sagacity and cunning of his intended victim willoften outwit his most shrewd endeavors, much to his chagrin. Thesense of smell, so largely developed in many animals, becomes oneof the trappers most serious obstacles, and seems at times to amountalmost to positive _reason_, so perfectly do the creatures bafflethe most ingenious attempts of man in his efforts to capture them. A little insight into the ways of these artful animals, however, and a little experience with their odd tricks soon enables oneto cope with them successfully and overcome their whims. For thebenefit of the amateur who has not had the opportunity of studyingfor himself, the peculiarities of the various game, the authorappends a comprehensive chapter on "Practical Natural History, "in which will be found full accounts of the peculiar habits andleading characteristics of all the various animals commonly soughtby the trapper, together with detailed directions for trappingeach variety, supplemented with a faithful portrait of the animalin nearly every instance. A careful reading of the above mentionedchapter will do much towards acquainting the novice with the waysof the sly creatures, which he hopes to victimize, and will thusprepare him to contend with them successfully. 

In the art of trapping the bait is often entirely dispensed with, the traps being set and carefully concealed in the _runways_ ofthe various animals. These by-paths are easily detected by an[Page 149]experienced trapper, and are indicated either by footprints orother evidences of the animal, together with the matted leaves andbroken twigs and grasses. 

Natural channels, such as hollow logs or crevices between rocksor fallen trees, offer excellent situations for steel traps, and agood trapper is always on the _qui vive_ for such chance advantages, thus often saving much of the time and labor which would otherwisebe spent in the building of artificial enclosures, etc. 

The most effective baits used in the art of trapping are thosewhich are used to attract the animal through its sense of smell, asdistinct from that of its mere appetite for food. These baits areknown in the profession as "medicine, " or scent baits and possessthe most remarkable power of attracting the various animals fromgreat distances, and leading them almost irresistibly to any desiredspot. Such is the barks tone or castoreum, of such value in thecapture of the beaver, and the oil of anise, so commonly used forthe trapping of animals in general. These various substances willpresently be considered under their proper heading. 

Many detailed and specific directions on the subject of trappingwill be found in the long chapter following; and, in closing ourpreliminary remarks, we would add just one more word of generalcaution, which the young trapper should always bear in mind. 

In all cases avoid handling the trap with the bare hand. Many anamateur has set and _reset_ his traps in vain, and retired from thefield of trapping in disgust, from the mere want of observing thisrule. Animals of keen scent are quick in detecting the slightestodors, and that left by the touch of a human hand often suffices todrive the creature away from a trap which, under other circumstances, would have been its certain destruction. To be sure the variousscent baits already alluded to, will in a measure overcome humantraces, but not always effectually, and in order to insure success noprecautions so simple should be neglected. A pair of clean buckskingloves are valuable requisites to the trapper, and should alwaysbe "on hand" when setting or transporting traps. 

"MEDICINES, " OR SCENT BAITS. 

These form one of the most important requisites of the trapper'sart. A trap baited simply with the food of the[Page 150]required animal, may and often will be successful, but with theaddition of the trapper's "medicine" judicially applied, successis almost a certainty. These scent baits are of various kinds, some being almost universal in their usefulness, while others areattractive only to some particular species of animal. We give afew of the recipes of the most valued preparations used by trappersthroughout the land. The application and use of each is fully describedin its proper place hereafter. 

CASTOREUM. 

This substance, commonly known as "_Barkstone_, " by trappers andfur dealers, is obtained from the beaver, and is a remarkable aid inthe capture of that animal. It is an acrid secretion of a powerfulmusky odor, found in two glands beneath the root of the tail ofthe beaver. These glands are about two inches in length. They arecut out and the contents are squeezed into a small bottle. Whenfresh the substance is of a yellowish-red color, changing to alight-brown when dried. Both male and female animals yield thecastoreum, but that of the male is generally considered the best. Castoreum is a commercial drug, and in many beaver countries itis quite an article of trade. There are other sacs lying directlybehind the castor glands which contain a strong oil of rancid smell. This should not be confounded with the Castoreum. 

CASTOREUM COMPOSITION. 

The Barkstone is used both pure and in combination with othersubstances, the following prescription being much used: Into thecontents of about ten of the castor bags, mix two ground nutmegs, thirty or forty cloves, also powdered, one drop essence of peppermint, and about two thimblefuls of ground cinnamon. Into this stir asmuch whisky as will give the whole the consistency of paste, afterwhich the preparation should be bottled and kept carefully corked. At the expiration of a few days the odor increases ten-fold in powerand is ready for use. A bottle, if thus prepared, will retain itsstrength for nearly a half year, provided it is kept closely corked. A few drops of either the pure castoreum or the combination spreadupon the bait or in the neighborhood of the trap, as describedunder the chapter on the Beaver, will entice that animal from agreat distance. 

[Page 151]MUSK. 

This substance is a secretion obtained from several different animals, notably the otter and muskrat. The glands which contain it arelocated similarly to the castor glands of the beaver, and the muskshould be discharged into a vial, as previously described. Themusk of the female muskrat is said to be the most powerful, andis chiefly used by trappers in the capture of that animal, theotter being chiefly attracted by its own musk. 

ASSAFOETIDA. 

This foul smelling production seems to have a specially attractivefragrance to many animals, and for general use is much esteemed bytrappers. It is a vegetable drug from Persia and the East Indies, and is imported in the form of concrete juice, of a brown color. 

OIL OF RHODIUM. 

This is a vegetable oil obtained from a species of rose, and isquite costly. Its power of attracting animals is surprising, andit is in very common use among trappers. 

FISH OIL. 

This is especially useful in the capture of the majority of thefur tribe, and particularly the water animals. 

The oil may be bought ready for use, or prepared with little trouble. The common method consists in cutting up fish of any kind, especiallyeels, into small bits, putting them in a bottle, and setting thelatter in the full exposure to the sun. It should thus be leftfor about two weeks, at the end of which time a rancid oil willhave formed. A few drops of this oil will entice many animals fromsurprising distances, often drawing their attention to a bait whichotherwise they might never have scented. 

OIL OF SKUNK. 

This, the _ne plus ultra_, or quintessence of diabolical stench, yields the tempting savor which irresistibly attracts many animalsto their final doom. It is contained in a pouch beneath the insertionof the tail of the animal, and is spread abroad by the[Page 152]creature with lavish extravagance when circumstances demand, or wemight say when occasion permits. It may be taken from the animaland bottled as already described in other instances, chloride oflime being used to eradicate the stench from the hands. 

OIL OF AMBER. 

This substance is frequently referred to in the following pages, and is a vegetable product of the amber gum of commerce. The Oilof Ambergris is also sometimes used by trappers, and is likewiseknown as Amber Oil. The two are thus often confounded, althoughthe former is supposed to be most generally used. 

OIL OF ANISE. 

This is strongly recommended by many trappers as a most excellent"universal medicine. " It is a vegetable product, and is obtainableat any drug store. 

SWEET FENNEL. 

This plant is commonly cultivated all over the United States, andthe seeds are often powdered and used as a scent bait. The Oil ofFennel is preferable, however, and may be had at almost any drugstore. 

CUMMIN. 

This is another plant, somewhat resembling the former, and, likeit, cultivated for its seeds. It has an aromatic taste, and itsstrong pungent odor renders it of great value to the trapper. Theseeds may be powdered and thus used, or the oil of the plant maybe easily procured. The latter is preferable. 

FENUGREEK. 

Like the two foregoing this plant is valuable for its seeds, whichare used for medicinal purposes. The oil or bruised seeds may beused. 

LAVENDER. 

This is another aromatic plant, the oil of which, either pure ordiluted with alcohol, is much used in the trapper's art. 

[Page 153]COMPOUND. 

For ordinary use, a mixture of Assafoetida, Musk, Oil of Anise, and Fish Oil, together with a few drops of the Oil of Rhodium, isespecially recommended by our most skilled trappers. This preparationcontains the various substances which are known to attract thedifferent fur bearing animals, and its use often insures successwhere anyone of the simple substances would be ineffectual. 

THE TRAIL. 

The object of the "trail" consists in offering a leading scentwhich, when followed, will bring the animal to the various traps, and when properly made will be the means of drawing large numbersof game from all quarters and from great distances, whereas withoutit the traps might remain undiscovered. 

Trails are sometimes made to connect a line of traps, as when setalong the banks of streams for mink, etc. , at other times, as intrapping the fox, for instance, they should extend from the trap onall sides, like the spokes of a wheel from the hub, thus coveringconsiderable area, and rendering success more certain than it wouldbe without this precaution. 

The combination "medicine" just described is excellent for thepurposes of a trail for minks, otter, muskrat, and many other animals. 

Soak a piece of meat, or piece of wood in the preparation, anddrag it along the ground between the traps. A dead fish smearedwith the fluid will also answer the same purpose. The soles ofthe boots may also be smeared with the "medicine" and the trailthus accomplished. Trails of various kinds are considered undertheir respective and appropriate heads in the chapters on animals, all of which will be found useful and effective. 

HOW TO TRAP. 

In the following pages will be found full and ample directionsfor the trapping of all our leading game, together with detaileddescriptions of peculiar habits of each species. The various articlescontain careful descriptions, whereby the species may be readilyrecognized, and, in nearly every case, are accompanied by faithfulillustrations. We add also valuable directions for the best manner ofremoving the skin of each animal, this being a matter of considerableimportance, as affecting their pecuniary value. 

[Page 154]THE FOX. 

Foremost in the list of animals noted for their sly craft, andthe hero of a host of fables and well-authenticated stories, inwhich artful cunning gains the advantage over human intelligence, Reynard, the fox, reigns supreme. There is scarcely a professionaltrapper in the land who has not, in his day, been hoodwinked by thewily strategy of this sly creature, whose extreme cunning rendershim the most difficult of all animals to trap. The fox belongs tothe Dog family, and there are six varieties inhabiting the UnitedStates. The red species is the most common and is too well knownto need a description here. The Cross Fox considerably resemblesthe above, only being much darker in color, the red hair beingthickly speckled with black. This species varies considerably incolor in different individuals, often much resembling the red variety, and again approaching nearer in color to the Black or Silver Fox. This variation, together with the name of the animal, has givenrise among trappers to the wide-spread belief of the animal beinga cross between the two species which it so nearly resembles. Itseems to be a permanent variety, however, the term cross beingapplied, we believe, on account of a dark marking on the back, between the shoulders of the animal, suggestive of that title. The Silver or Black Fox is the most beautiful and most rare of thegenus, and yields the most valuable fur produced in this country. Its color is black, with the exception of the tip of the tail, which is white. The Prairie Fox is the largest of the species. Itinhabits the Western Prairies, and in color resembles the commonred variety, only being a trifle yellower. 

The Kit, or Swift Fox, is smaller than the Red, and abounds in theWestern States. 

The Gray Fox is a Southern variety, and is very beautiful. It isless daring and cunning than the Common Fox, and seldom approachesa farm-yard, where it is in close proximity to a dwelling. 

The general habits and characteristics of all the foxes are similar. For natural cunning they take the lead of all other animals. Theyare all built for speed, and their senses of smell and hearingare acutely developed. Their food consists of wild fowl of allkinds, rabbits, squirrels, birds and their eggs, together withmany kinds of ripe fruits, "sour grapes" not included. They livein burrows, often usurped, or crevices between rocks; and their[Page 155]young, from three to nine in number, are brought forth in March. 

We are strongly tempted to narrate a few remarkable instances ofthe animal's cunning, but we forbear for want of space. Our readermust take it for granted that when he attempts to trap a fox, hewill be likely to find more than his match in the superior craftinessof that animal. If the trap is overturned and the bait gone, or ifrepeatedly sprung and found empty, he must not be surprised ordiscouraged, for he is experiencing only what all other trappershave experienced before him. There are instances on record wherethis knowing creature has sprung the trap by dropping a stick uponthe pan, afterwards removing the suspended bait to enjoy it athis leisure. His movements are as lithe and subtile as those ofa snake, and when "cornered" there is no telling what caper thatcunning instinct and subtlety of body will not lead him to perform. When pursued by hounds he has been known to lead them a long chaseat full speed up to the crest of a hill: here he leaps a shrub, swiftly as an arrow, and landing on the ground on the oppositedeclivity quickly returns beneath the brushwood and crouches downclosely upon the ground. Presently the hounds come along in fullcry, and blazing scent they dart over the shrub in full pursuit, dash down the hillside, never stopping until at the bottom of thehill they find they are off the trail. As soon as the hounds arepassed, sly Reynard cautiously takes to his legs: creeping adroitlyback over the brow of the hill, he runs for a considerable distanceon his back trail, and at last, after taking a series of long jumpstherefrom returns to his covert at leisure. Page after page mightbe filled to the glory of this creature's cunning, but enough hasbeen said to give the young trapper an insight into the characterof the animal he hopes to victimize, and prepare him for a trialof skill which, without this knowledge, would be a most one-sidedaffair. 

We would not advise our young amateur to calculate very confidentlyon securing a fox at the first attempt, but we can truthfully vouchthat if the creature can be _caught at all_, it can be done byfollowing the directions we now give. 

One of the most essential things in the trapping of this, as wellas nearly all animals, is that the trap should be _perfectly cleanand free from rust_. The steel trap No. 2, page 141 is the bestfor animals of the size of the Fox. The trap should be washed inweak lye, being afterwards well greased and finally smoked overburning hen's feathers. 

[Page 156]All this and even more precaution is necessary. No matter how stronglyscented the trap may be, with the smoke, or other substances, amere touch of the bare hand will leave a _human scent_ which thefox perceives as soon as the other, and this is enough to deadenhis enthusiasm over the most tempting bait. 

On this account, it is necessary always to handle the trap withbuckskin gloves, never allowing the bare hand to come in contactwith it, on any account, after once prepared for setting. 

Before arranging the trap for its work, it is necessary to constructwhat is called a "bed. " There are several methods of doing this;but from all we can learn from the most experienced trappers, thefollowing is the most successful. The bed should be made on flatground, using any of the following substances: Buckwheat chaff, which is the best, oat, wheat, or hay chaff, or in lieu of these, moss or wood ashes. Let the bed be three feet in diameter, and aninch and a half in depth. To insure success it is the best planto bait the bed itself for several days with scraps of beef orcheese strewn upon, and near it. If the fox once visits the place, discovers the tempting morsels and enjoys a good meal unmolested, he will be sure to revisit the spot so long as he finds a "freelunch" awaiting him. When he is found to come regularly and takethe bait, he is as good as caught, provided our instructions arecarefully followed. Take the trap, previously prepared as alreadydescribed, chain it securely to a small log of wood about two feetlong. Dig a hole in the earth in the centre of the bed, large enoughto receive the trap, with its log, and chain. Set the traps, supportingthe pan by pushing some of the chaff beneath it. Now lay a pieceof paper over the pan and sprinkle the chaff over it evenly andsmoothly, until every trace of the trap and its appendages isobliterated. Endeavor to make the bed look as it has previouslydone, and bait it with the same materials. Avoid treading muchabout the bed and step in the same tracks as far as possible. Touchnothing with the naked hands. Cover up all the footprints as muchas possible, and leave the trap to take care of itself and anyintruder. If our directions have been accurately followed, and duecare has been exercised on the part of the young trapper, thereis every probability that the next morning will reward him withhis fox. But if a day or two elapse without success, it is well toresort to the "scent baits" described on page 149. Take the trapout of the bed, and with a feather smear it with melted beeswax, or rub it with a little Oil of Rhodium, Assafoetida, or Musk. Oilof Amber, and Lavender water are also used for the same[Page 157]purpose by many professional trappers. These are not always necessarybut are often used as a last resort, and will most always insuresuccess. 

Another method of baiting is shown in our page illustration opposite, and consists in suspending the bait by a stick in such a positionthat the fox will be obliged to step upon the trap in order toreach it. The bed should be baited in this way several times beforethe trap is set. This method is very commonly employed. 

Another still, is to bury the dead body of a rabbit or bird inloose earth, covering the whole with chaff. Sprinkle a few dropsof Musk, or Oil of Amber over the bed. After the fox has takenthe bait, the place should be rebaited and the trap inserted inthe mound and covered with the chaff, being scented as before. 

Some trappers employ the following method with good results: Thetrap is set, in a spring or at the edge of a small shallow brookand attached by a chain to a stake in the bank, the chain beingunder water. There should be only about an inch and a half of waterover the trap, and its distance from the shore should be abouta foot and a half, or even less. In order to induce the fox toplace his foot in the trap it is necessary to cut a sod of grass, just the size of the inside of the jaws of the trap, and place itover the pan, so that it will project above the water and offera tempting foot rest for the animal while he reaches for the baitwhich rests in the water just beyond. To accomplish this devicewithout springing the trap by the weight of the sod, it is necessaryto brace up the pan from beneath with a small perpendicular stick, sufficiently to neutralize the pressure from above. The bait maybe a dead rabbit or bird thrown on the water outside of the trapand about a foot from it, being secured by a string and peg. Ifthe fox spies the bait he will be almost sure to step upon thesod to reach it, and thus get caught. 

If none of these methods are successful, the young trapper may atleast content himself with the idea that the particular fox he isafter is an _old fellow_ and is "not to be caught with chaff" orany thing else, --for if these devices will not secure him _nothing_will. If he is a young and comparatively unsophisticated specimen, he will fall an easy victim to any of the foregoing stratagems. 

Although steel traps are generally used in the capture of foxes, a cleverly constructed and baited dead-fall such as is describedon page 113 will often do capital service in that direction. By[Page 158]arranging and baiting the trap as therein described, even a foxis _likely to become_ its prey. 

To skin the fox the pelt should be first ripped down each hindleg to the vent. The skin being cut loose around this point, thebone of the tail should next be removed. This may be done by holdinga split stick tightly over the bone after which the latter may beeasily pulled out of the skin. 

The hide should then be drawn back, and carefully removed, workingwith caution around the legs, and particularly so about the eyes, ears, and lips when these points are reached. The skin should bestretched as described on page 273. 

THE WOLF. 

The United States are blessed with several species of this animal. The Grey Wolf, which is the largest, and the smaller, Prairie Wolfor Coyote, being the most commonly known. There are also the WhiteWolf, Black Wolf and the Texan or Red Wolf. In outward form theyall bear a considerable resemblance to each other, and their habitsare generally similar in the different varieties. 

Wolves are fierce and dangerous animals, and are very powerful oflimb and fleet of foot. They are extremely cowardly in character, and will seldom attack man or animal except when by their greaternumbers they would be sure of victory. Wolves are found in almostevery quarter of the globe. Mountain and plain, field, jungle andprairie are alike infested with them, and they hunt in united bands, feeding upon almost any animal which by their combined attacksthey can overpower. 

Their inroads upon herds and sheep folds are sometimes horrifying, and a single wolf has been known to kill as many as forty sheepin a single night, seemingly from mere blood-thirsty desire. 

In the early colonization of America, wolves ran wild over thecountry in immense numbers, and were a source of great danger;but now, owing to wide-spread civilization, they have disappearedfrom the more settled localities and are chiefly found in Westernwilds and prairie lands. 

The Grey Wolf is the largest and most formidable representative ofthe Dog tribe on this continent. Its general appearance is truthfullygiven in our drawing. Its length, exclusive of the tail, is aboutfour feet, the length of the tail being about a foot and a half. Its color varies from yellowish grey to almost[Page 159]white in the northern countries, in which latitude the animal issometimes found of an enormous size, measuring nearly seven feet inlength. The fur is coarse and shaggy about the neck and haunches, and the tail is bushy. They abound in the region east of the RockyMountains and northward, and travel in packs of hundreds in searchof prey. Bisons, wild horses, deer and even bears fall victimsto their united fierceness, and human beings, too, often fall aprey to their ferocious attacks. 

[Illustration]

The Coyote, or Common Prairie Wolf, also known as the BurrowingWolf, as its name implies inhabits the Western plains and prairies. They are much smaller than the Grey Wolf, and not so dangerous. Theytravel in bands and unitedly attack whatever animal they desireto kill. Their homes are made in burrows which they excavate in theground. The Texan Wolf inhabits the latitude of Texas and southward. It is of a tawny red color and nearly as large as the grey species, possessing the same savage nature. 

In April or May the female wolf retires to her burrow or den, andher young, from six to ten in number, are brought forth. 

The wolf is almost as sly and cunning as the fox, and the samecaution is required in trapping the animal. They are extremely keenscented, and the mere touch of a human hand on the trap is oftenenough to preclude the possibility of capture. A mere footprint, or the scent of tobacco juice, they look upon with great suspicion, [Page 160]and the presence of either will often prevent success. 

The same directions given in regard to trapping the fox are equallyadapted for the wolf. The trap (size No, 4, page 141) should besmoked or smeared with beeswax or blood, and set in a bed of ashesor other material as therein described, covering with moss, chaff, leaves or some other light substance. The clog should be fullytwice as heavy as that used for the fox. Some trappers rub thetraps with "brake leaves, " sweet fern, or even skunk's cabbage. Gloves should always be worn in handling the traps, and all tracksshould be obliterated as much as if a fox were the object soughtto be secured. 

A common way of securing the wolf consists in setting the trapin a spring or puddle of water, throwing the dead body of somelarge animal in the water beyond the trap in such a position thatthe wolf will be obliged to tread upon the trap, in order to reachthe bait. This method is described both under the head of the Foxand the Bear. 

Another plan is to fasten the bait between two trees which arevery close together, setting a trap on each side and carefullyconcealing them as already directed, and securing each to a clogof about twenty pounds in weight. The enclosure described on page144 is also successful. 

There are various scent or trail baits used in trapping the wolf. Oil of Assafoetida is by many trappers considered the best, butOil of Rhodium, powdered fennel, fenugreek and Cummin Oil are alsomuch used. It is well to smear a little of the first mentioned oilnear the traps, using any one of the other substances, or indeed amixture of them all, for the trail. This may be made by smearing thepreparation on the sole of the boots and walking in the directionof the traps, or by dragging from one trap to another a piece ofmeat scented with the substance, as described under the head ofMink. 

The wolf is an adept at feigning death, playing "'possum" with askill which would do credit to that veritable animal itself. 

A large dead-fall, constructed of logs, page 17, when skilfullyscented and baited, will often allure a wolf into its clutches, and a very strong twitch-up, with a noose formed of heavy wire, ora strip of stout calf hide, will successfully capture the craftycreature. 

In skinning the wolf the hide may be removed either by, first rippingup the belly, or in a circular piece, as described connection withthe fox, both methods being much used. The board and hoop stretchers[Page 161]used in preparing the skin are described on pages 273 and 275. 

THE PUMA. 

The puma, commonly known also as the panther or cougar, is thelargest American representative of the Cat tribe, and for thisreason is often dignified by the name of the "American Lion. " Itis found more or less abundantly throughout the United States;and although not generally considered a dangerous foe to mankind, it has often been known in the wild districts to steal upon thetraveller unawares, and in many instances human beings have fallena prey to the powerful claws and teeth of this powerful animal. 

The life of the puma is mostly in the trees. Crouching upon thebranches it watches for, or steals, cat-like, upon its prey. Shoulda solitary animal pass within reach, the puma will not hesitate inpouncing upon the unfortunate creature; but if a herd of animals, or party of men, should be travelling together, the caution ofthe brute asserts itself, and he will often dog their footstepsfor a great distance, in hopes of securing a straggler. Birds arestruck down by a single blow of the puma's ready paw, and so quickare his movements that even though a bird has risen on the wing, he can often make one of his wonderful bounds, and with a light, quick stroke, arrest the winged prey before it has time to soarbeyond reach. The puma is a good angler. Sitting by the water'sedge he watches for his victims, and no sooner does an unfortunatefish swim within reach, than the nimble paw is outstretched, andit is swept out of the water on dry land, and eagerly devoured. 

A puma has been known to follow the track of travellers for daystogether, only daring to show itself at rare intervals, and neverendeavoring to make an attack except through stealth. The animalwill often approach cautiously upon a traveller until sufficientlynear to make its fatal spring; but if the pursued party suddenly turnround and face the crawling creature, the beast becomes discomfitedat once, and will retreat from the gaze which seems to it a positiveterror. So long as a puma can be kept in sight, no danger need befeared from the animal but it will improve every opportunity ofspringing unobservedly upon a heedless passer by. The total lengthof the puma is six feet and a half, of which the tail occupies alittle over two feet. Its color is of a uniform light tawny tint, fading into light grey on the under parts, and the tip of the tail[Page 162]is black. The puma is one of the few members of the Cat tribe, whichare without the usual spots or stripes so observable in the tiger andleopard. The lion has the same uniformity of color, and it is perhapspartly on that account that the panther is so often known as theAmerican lion. In infancy the young pumas possess decided tiger-likemarkings, and leopard-like spots, but these disappear altogether asthe animal increases in size. The cougar has learned by experience awholesome fear of man, and as civilization has extended throughoutour country, the animals have been forced to retire from the neighborhoodof human habitations and hide themselves in thick, uncultivated forestlands. 

[Illustration]

Sometimes, however, the animal, urged by fierce hunger, will ventureon a marauding expedition for several miles, and although not anobject of personal dread to the inhabitants, he often becomes apestilent neighbor to the farmer, committing great ravages amonghis flocks and herds, and making sad havoc in his poultry yard. It is not the fortune of every puma, however, to reside in theneighborhood of such easy prey as pigs, sheep and poultry, and thegreater number of these animals are forced to depend for their[Page 163]subsistence on their own success in chasing or surprising the variousanimals on which they feed. 

When a puma is treed by hunters, it is said to show great skillin selecting a spot wherein it shall be best concealed from thegazers below, and will even draw the neighboring branches aboutits body to hide itself from the aim of the hunter's rifle. Whilethus lying upon the branches the beast is almost invisible frombelow, as its fur, when seen, harmonizes so well with the the barkwhich covers the boughs, that the one can scarcely be distinguishedfrom the other. 

The puma loves to hide in the branches of trees, and from thiseminence to launch itself upon the doomed animal that may pass withinits reach. It may, therefore, be easily imagined how treacherous afoe the creature may be when ranging at will among the countlesstrees and jungles of our American forests. 

Although so stealthy and sly a creature the cougar possesses verylittle cunning and is easily trapped. The Gun trap, page 20, iscommonly and successfully employed in South America in the captureof the jaguar, as our title illustration, page 15, represents, andit may also be used with the same success in trapping the puma. The Bow trap, page 23, and the dead-fall described in the early partof the book, will all be found to work admirably in the destructionof this treacherous beast. 

The animal may be entrapped alive, should any of our young trappersdare to try the experiment. 

There are two ways of accomplishing this. The first is by the aidof a huge coop of logs, as described on page 30 or 33, and the otherby the Pit-fall, as exemplified on page 31. Huge twitch-ups mayalso be constructed, using very strong wire. The bait may consistof a fowl, sheep's head, or the heart of any animal. Fresh meat ofany kind will answer the purpose, and in the case of the Pit-falla live fowl is preferable to a dead one as it will attract thepuma by its motions, or by its cackling, and thus induce him to_spring_ upon his prey, which will precipitate him to the bottomof the pit and thus effect his capture. 

They are commonly taken with the steel trap. The puma seldom leavesthe vicinity of the carcass of an animal it has killed until it isall devoured. When such a carcass can be found the capture of thebeast is easily effected. Set the trap, size No. 5, page 143, nearthe remains, and cover the carcass with leaves. The next visit ofthe animal will find him _more attached_ to the place than ever, --somuch so that he will be unable to "_tear himself away_. "

[Page 164]The skin of the puma is properly removed by first cutting up thebelly as described under the Beaver, using great care about thehead and face. Use the hoop stretcher, page 275. 

THE CANADIAN LYNX. 

The lynx represents another of the Cat tribe, and as its name impliesis a native of the regions north of the United States, althoughsometimes found in upper Maine and on the lower borders of thegreat lakes. It is commonly known throughout Canada as the Peshoo, or "Le Chat. "

Our illustration is a truthful representation of the animal. Itstotal length exceeds three feet, and its tail is a mere stub. Thefur is thick, and the hairs are long, the general color being grey, sprinkled with black. The legs are generally darker than the body, and the ears are often edged with white. The limbs and musclesare very powerful, the paws are very large for the size of theanimal, and are furnished with strong white claws, which are imbeddedin the fur of the feet when not in use, they are shown in ourillustration. The ears of the lynx form a distinct feature, bywhich the animal could be easily identified; they are long andtipped with stiff projecting hairs, giving the creature a very oddappearance. 

The peshoo can not be said to be a very dangerous animal, unlessit is attacked, when it becomes a most ferocious antagonist. Thewriter knew of a gentleman who was pounced upon and very nearlykilled by one of these infuriated creatures, and there are manylike instances on record. 

The principal food of the lynx consists of the smaller quadrupeds, the American hare being its favorite article of diet. It is a goodswimmer, and a most agile climber, chasing its prey among the brancheswith great stealth and dexterity. Like the wolf, fox, and manyother flesh eating-animals, the lynx does not content itself withthe creatures which fall by the stroke of its own talons, or thegrip of its own teeth, but will follow the trail of the puma, inits nocturnal quest after prey, and thankfully partake of the feastwhich remains after its predecessor has satisfied its appetite. 

[Illustration]

While running at full speed, the lynx presents a most ludicrousappearance, owing to its peculiar manner of leaping. It progressesin successive bounds, with its back slightly arched, and all thefeet striking the ground nearly at the same instant. Powerful asthe animal is, it is easily killed by a blow on the[Page 165]back, a slight stick being a sufficient weapon wherewith to destroythe creature. For this reason the "Dead-fall" is particularly adaptedfor its capture, and is very successful, as the animal possessesvery little cunning, and will enter an enclosure of any kind withoutthe slightest compunction, when a tempting bait is in view. Thedead-fall should of course be constructed on a large scale, andit is a good plan to have the enclosure deep, and the bait as farback as will necessitate the animal being well under the suspendedlog in order to reach it. The bait may consist of a dead quadrupedor of fresh meat of any kind. 

The Gun trap, page 20, and the Bow trap, page 23, will also befound efficient, and a very powerful twitch-up, constructed from astout pole and extra strong wire will also serve to good purpose. The lynx is not so prolific as many of the feline tribe, the numberof its young seldom exceeding two, and this only once a year. Thefur of the animal is valuable for the purposes to which the felineskin is generally adapted, and commands a fair price in the market. Those who hunt or trap the lynx will do well to choose the wintermonths for the time of their operations, as during the cold seasonthe animal possesses a thicker and warmer fur than it offers inthe summer months. 

When the steel trap is used, it should be of size No. 4, page[Page 166]141, set at the opening of a pen of stakes, the bait being placedat the back of the enclosure in such a position, as that the animalwill be obliged to step upon the pan of the trap in order to reachit. Any of the devices described under "Hints on Baiting" willbe found successful. 

The skin of the animal may be removed as directed in the case ofthe fox, being drawn off the body whole, or it may be removed afterthe manner of the beaver, and similarly stretched. 

THE WILD CAT. 

This animal is one of the most wide-spread species of the Cat tribe, being found not only in America, but throughout nearly the wholeof Europe as well as in Northern Asia. In many parts of the UnitedStates, where the wild cat was wont to flourish, it has becomeexterminated, owing to civilization and the destruction of forestlands. 

Many naturalists are of the opinion that the wild cat is the originalprogenitor of our domestic cat, but there is much difference of opinionin regard to the subject. Although they bear great resemblance toeach other, there are several points of distinction between thetwo; one of the most decided differences being in the comparativelength of the tails. The tail of the wild cat is little more thanhalf the length of that of the domestic cat, and much more bushy. 

The color of the wild animal is much more uniform than in the greatraft of "domestic" mongrel specimens which make night hideous withtheir discordant yowls, although we sometimes see a high bred individualwhich, if his tail was cut off at half its length, might easilypass as an example of the wild variety. 

The ground tint of the fur in the wild cat is yellowish grey, diversified with dark streaks over the body and limbs, much afterthe appearance of the so-called "tiger cat. " A row of dark streaksand spots extends along the spine, and the tail is thick, shortand bushy, tipped with black and encircled with a number of ringsof a dark hue. In some individuals the markings are less distinct, and they are sometimes altogether wanting, but in the typical wildcat they are quite prominent. The fur is rather long and thick, particularly so during the winter season, and always in the coldernorthern regions. 

The amount of havoc which these creatures often occasion is surprising, and their nocturnal inroads, in poultry yards and[Page 167]sheep folds, render them most hated pests to farmers in the countrieswhere these animals abound. They seem to have a special appetitefor the _heads_ of fowls, and will often decapitate a half dozenin a single night, leaving the bodies in otherwise good conditionto tell the story of their midnight murders. The home of the wildcat is made in some cleft of rock, or in the hollow of some agedtree, from which the creature issues in the dark hours and startsupon its marauding excursions. Its family numbers from three tosix, and the female parent is smaller than the male, the totallength of the latter being three feet. 

[Illustration]

Inhabiting the most lonely and inaccessible ranges of rock andmountain, the wild cat is seldom seen during the daytime. At night, like its domestic relative, he prowls far and wide, walking withthe same stealthy step and hunting his game in the same tiger-likemanner. He is by no means a difficult animal to trap, being easilydeceived and taking a bait without any hesitation. The wild cathaunts the shores of lakes and rivers, and it is here that thetraps may be set for them. Having caught and killed one of thecolony, the rest of them can be easily taken if the body of thedead victim be left near their hunting ground and surrounded withthe traps carefully set and concealed beneath leaves moss or the like. [Page 168]Every wild cat that is in the neighborhood will be certain to visitthe body, and if the traps are rightly arranged many will be caught. The trap No. 3, page 141 is generally used. We would caution the youngtrapper in his approach to an entrapped wild cat, as the strength andferocity of this animal under such circumstances, or when otherwise"hard pressed, " is perfectly amazing. When caught in a trap theyspring with terrible fury at any one who approaches them, not waitingto be assailed, and when cornered or hemmed in by a hunter theywill often turn upon their pursuer, and springing at his face willattack him with most consummate fury, often inflicting seriousand sometimes fatal wounds. When hunted and attacked by dogs, thewild cat is a most desperate and untiring fighter, and extremelydifficult to kill, for which reason it has been truthfully saidthat "if a tame cat has nine lives, a _wild cat_ must have a dozen. "

The twitch-up, erected on a large scale, is utilized to a considerableextent in England in the capture of these animals; and these, togetherwith steel traps and dead-falls, are about the only machines usedfor their capture. We would suggest the garrote, bow and gun trapalso as being very effective. The bait may consist of the headof a fowl or a piece of rabbit or fowl flesh: or, indeed, fleshof almost any kind will answer, particularly of the bird kind. 

In skinning the wild cat the same directions given under the headof the Fox may be followed, or the pelt may be ripped up the bellyand spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275. 

THE BEAR. 

There are several species of the Bear tribe which inhabit our continent, the most prominent of which are the Grizzly, and the Musquaw orcommon Black Bear. There is no other animal of this country whichis more widely and deservedly dreaded than the grizzly bear. Thereare other creatures, the puma and wild cat, for instance, whichare dangerous when cornered or wounded, but they are not given toopen and deliberate attack upon human beings. The grizzly, however, or "Ephraim, " as he is commonly termed by trappers, often displaysa most unpleasant readiness to attack and pursue a man, even inthe face of fire arms. In many localities, however, where huntinghas been pursued to considerable extent, these animals have learnedfrom experience a wholesome fear of man, and are not so ready toassume the offensive, but a "_wounded_" grizzly is one of the[Page 169]most horrible antagonists of which it is possible to conceive, rushing upon its victim with terrible fury, and dealing most tearingand heavy blows with its huge claws. 

In length this formidable animal often exceeds eight feet, and itscolor varies from yellowish to brownish black, and some specimensare found of a dirty grey color. 

The legs are usually darker than the rest of the body, and theface is generally of a lighter tint. The fore limbs of the animalare immensely powerful; and the foot of a full-grown individualis fully eighteen inches long, and armed with claws five inchesin length. The grizzly inhabits the Rocky Mountain regions andnorthward, being found in considerable numbers in the western partof British America. Its hair is thick and coarse, except in theyoung animal, which possesses a beautiful fur. 

All other creatures seem to stand in fear of this formidable beast. Even the huge bison, or buffalo, of the Western Prairies sometimesfalls a victim to the grizzly bear, and the very imprint of a bear'sfoot upon the soil is a warning which not even a hungry wolf willdisregard. 

Its food consists of whatever animal it can seize, whether humanor otherwise. He also devours green corn, nuts, and fruits of allkinds. In his earlier years he is a good climber, and will ascenda tree with an agility which is surprisingly inconsistent withthe unwieldy proportions of his body. 

The average weight of a full-grown grizzly is over eight hundredpounds, and the girth around the body is about eight feet. 

The Black bear, or Musquaw, which we illustrate is common throughoutnearly all the half settled-districts of North America. But as thefur and fat are articles of great commercial value, the huntersand trappers have exercised their craft with such skill anddetermination that the animals are gradually decreasing in numbers. The total length of the black bear is seldom more than six feet, and its fur is smooth and glossy in appearance. The color of theanimal is rightly conveyed by its name, the cheeks only partakingof a reddish fawn color. 

It possesses little of that fierceness which characterizes thegrizzly, being naturally a very quiet and retiring creature, keepingitself aloof from mankind, and never venturing near his habitationsexcept when excited by the pangs of fierce hunger. When pursuedor cornered it becomes a dangerous antagonist; and its furiousrage often results in fearful catastrophes to both man and beast. Nothing but a rifle ball in the right spot will[Page 170]check the creature, when wrought up to this pitch of fury, and anadditional wound only serves to increase its terrible ferocity. Bear-chasing is an extremely dangerous sport; and there are fewbear-hunters in the land, however skilful, but what can show scarsfrom the claws or teeth of some exasperated bruin. 

[Illustration]

The food of the black bear is mostly of a vegetable character, animal diet not being indulged in unless pressed by hunger. Atsuch times it seems to especially prefer a young pig as the mostdesirable delicacy; and even full-grown hogs, it is said, are sometimeslifted from their pens and carried off in his deadly embrace. 

Honey is his especial delight; and he will climb trees with greatagility in order to reach a nest of bees, there being few obstacleswhich his ready claws and teeth will not remove where that daintyis in view. He is also very fond of acorns, berries, and fruitsof all kinds. 

The young of the bear are produced in January or February, andare from one to four in number. They are very small and coveredwith grey hair, which coat they retain until they are one year ofage. The flesh of the bear is held in high esteem among hunters, and when properly prepared is greatly esteemed by epicures. 

The fat of the animal is much used under the title of "Bear[Page 171]grease, " and is believed to be an infallible hair rejuvenator, andtherefore becomes a valuable article of commerce. 

The bear generally hibernates during the winter, choosing somecomfortable residence which it has prepared in the course of thesummer, or perhaps betaking itself to the hollow of some tree. Sometimes, in case of early snow, the track of the bears may bedistinguished, and if followed will probably lead to their dens, in which they can be secured with logs until it is desired to killthem. 

The black bear has a habit of treading in a beaten track, whichis easily detected by the eye of an experienced hunter or trapper, and turned to good account in trapping the animal. 

There are various modes of accomplishing this result. The bearDead-fall, described on page 17, is, perhaps, the most commonlyused, and the Pit-fall, page 31, and "Giant Coop" trap are alsoexcellent. The Gun trap and stone dead-fall, page 20, we alsoconfidently recommend. When a steel trap is used it requires thelargest size, especially made for the purpose. It should be suppliedwith a short and very strong chain firmly secured to a very heavyclog or grappling-iron page 147. If secured to a tree or otherstationary object, the captured animal is likely to gnaw or tearhis foot away, if, indeed, he does not break the trap altogetherby the quick tightening of the chain. The clog should be only heavyenough to be an _impediment_, and may consist of a log or heavystone. The grappling-iron, however, is more often used in connectionwith the bear trap. It is a common method in trapping the bearto construct a pen of upright branches, laying the trap at itsopening, and covering it with leaves. The bait is then placed atthe back in such a position that the animal, on reaching for it, will be sure to put his foot in the trap. 

An experienced trapper soon discovers natural openings betweenrocks or trees, which may be easily modified, and by the additionof a few logs so improved upon as to answer his purpose as well asa more elaborate enclosure, with much less trouble. Any arrangementwhereby the bear will be obliged to tread upon the trap in orderto secure the bait, is, of course, all that is required. The baitmay be hung on the edge of a rock five feet from the ground, andthe trap set on a smaller rock beneath it. He will thus be almostsure to rest his forefoot on the latter rock in order to reachthe bait, and will thus be captured. 

Another way is to set the trap in a spring of water or swampy[Page 172]spot. Lay a lump of moss over the pan, suspending the bait beyondthe trap. The moss will offer a natural foot-rest, and the offendingpaw will be secured. 

Bears possess but little cunning, and will enter any nook or cornerwithout the slightest compunction when in quest of food. They areespecially fond of sweets, and, as we have said, are strongly attractedby honey, being able to scent it from a great distance. On thisaccount it is always used, when possible, by trappers in connectionwith other baits. These may consist of a fowl, fruit, or flesh ofany kind, and the honey should be smeared over it. Skunk cabbageis said to be an excellent bait for the bear; and in all cases afree use of the Oil of Anise page 152, sprinkling it about thetraps, is also advisable. Should the device fail, it is well tomake a trail (see page 153) in several directions from the trap, and extending for several rods. A piece of wood, wet with Oil ofAnise, will answer for the purpose. 

The general method of skinning the bear consists in first cuttingfrom the front of the lower jaw down the belly to the vent, afterwhich the hide may be easily removed. The hoop-stretcher page 275, will then come into good use in the drying and preparing of theskin for market. 

THE RACCOON. 

Although allied to the Bear family, this animal possesses muchin common with the fox, as regards its general disposition andcharacter. It has the same slyness and cunning, the same stealthytread, besides an additional mischievousness and greed. It is toocommon to need any description here, being found plentifully throughoutnearly the whole United States. The bushy tail, with its dark rings, will be sufficient to identify the animal in any community. Raccoonhunts form the subject of many very exciting and laughable stories, and a "coon chase, " to this day is a favorite sport all over thecountry. The raccoon, or "coon, " as he is popularly styled, isgenerally hunted by moonlight. An experienced dog is usually seton the trail and the fugitive soon seeks refuge in a tree, whenits destruction is almost certain. Hence the term "treed coon, " asapplied to an individual when in a dangerous predicament. Besidespossessing many of the peculiarities of the fox, the "coon" hasthe additional accomplishment of being a most agile and expertclimber, holding so firmly to the limb by its sharp claws as todefy all attempts to shake it off. 

[Page 173]The home of the raccoon is generally in a hollow tree; the youngare brought forth in May, and are from four to six in number. 

In captivity this animal makes a very cunning and interesting pet, being easily tamed to follow its master, and when dainties are inview becomes a most adroit pickpocket. Its food is extensive invariety, thus making it quite an easy matter to keep the creaturein confinement. Nuts and fruits of all kinds it eagerly devours, as well as bread, cake and potatoes. It manifests no hesitationat a meal of rabbit, rat, squirrel, or bird, and rather likes itfor a change, and when he can partake of a dessert of honey ormolasses his enjoyment knows no bounds. Frogs, fresh water clams, green corn, and a host of other delicacies come within the rangeof his diet, and he may sometimes be seen digging from the sandthe eggs of the soft-shelled turtle, which he greedily sucks. Wecordially recommend the coon as a pet. He becomes very docile, and is full of cunning ways, and if the young ones can be tracedto their hiding-place in some hollow tree, and secured, if not_too_ young, we could warrant our readers a great deal of realsport and pleasure in rearing the little animals and watching theirways. 

In cold climates the raccoon lies dormant in the winter, only venturingout on occasional mild days; but in the Southern States he is activethroughout the year, prowling about by day and by night in searchof his food, inserting his little sharp nose into every corner, and feeling with his slender paws between stones for spiders andbugs of all kinds. He spies the innocent frog with his head justout of the water, and pouncing upon him, he despatches him withouta moment's warning. There seems to be no limits to his rapacity, forhe is always eating and always hungry. The print of the raccoon'spaw in the mud or snow is easily recognized, much resembling theimpression made by the foot of a babe. 

The best season for trapping the coon is late in the fall, winter, and early spring, or from and between the months of October andApril. During this time the pelts are in excellent condition. Earlyin the spring when the snow is disappearing, the coons come outof their hiding places to start on their foraging tours; and atthis time are particularly susceptible to a tempting bait, andthey may be successfully trapped in the following manner:--

Take a steel trap and set it on the edge of some pool, or streamwhere the coons are known to frequent: let it be an inch[Page 174]or so under the water, and carefully chained to a clog. The baitmay consist of a fish, frog, or head of a fowl, scented with Oilof Anise, and suspended over the traps about two feet higher, bythe aid of a sapling secured in the ground. (See title page atthe head of this section. ) The object of this is to induce theanimal to jump for it, when he will land with his foot in the trap. Another method is to construct a V shaped pen set the trap nearthe entrance, and, fastening the bait in the angle, cover the traploosely with leaves, and scent the bait as before with the anise. The trap should be at such a distance from the bait that the animal, in order to reach it, will be obliged to tread upon the pan, whichhe will be sure to do, his greed overcoming his discretion. Anyarrangement whereby the animal will be obliged to tread upon thetrap in order to reach the bait will be successful. 

[Illustration]

The beaten track of the coons may often be discovered in soft ground, and a trap carefully concealed therein will soon secure its victim. Another method is to set the trap near the coon tracks, spreading afew drops of anise on the pan and covering the whole with leaves. The coon, attracted by the scent, will feel around in the leaves for[Page 175]the bait, and thus "put his foot in it. "

In the South they construct a coon trap from a hollow log, eitherhaving the ends supplied with lids, which fall just like the Rattrap page 100 as the animal passes through, or else constructedwith nooses, similar to the Box-snare, page 56. Box traps of astyle similar to that described on page 103 are also excellent, anda strong twitch-up, of any of the various kinds we have described, will be found to work admirably. 

Many of the suggestions in trapping the mink, page 190, will befound equally, serviceable in regard to the coon. 

The skin of this animal should be removed as recommended for thefox, and similarly stretched. It may also be skinned by first rippingup the belly, and spread on a hoop stretcher. Page 275. 

THE BADGER. 

The American Badger is mostly confined to the Northwestern partsof the United States, and it is a curious little animal. In sizeits body is slightly smaller than the fox. Its general color isgrey, approaching to black on the head and legs. There is a whitestreak extending from the tip of the animal's long nose over thetop of the head and fading off near the shoulders. The cheeks arealso white, and a broad and definitely marked black line extendsfrom the snout back around the eyes ending at the neck. The greyof this animal is produced from the mixture of the varied tintsof its fur, each hair presenting a succession of shades. At theroot it is of a deep grey; this fades into a tawny yellow, andis followed by a black, the hair being finally tipped with white. The fur is much used in the manufacture of fine paint brushes, agood "Badger blender" being a most useful accessory in the painter'sart. The badger is slow and clumsy in its actions, except whenengaged in digging, his capacities in this direction being so greatas to enable him to sink himself into the ground with marvellousrapidity. The nest of the animal is made in the burrow, and theyoung are three or four in number. His diet is as variable andextensive as that of the coon, and consists of anything in anyway eatable. Snails, worms, rats, mice and moles, seem to havea particular attraction for him; and he seems to take especialdelight in unearthing the stores of the wild bees, devouring honey, wax and grubs together, and caring as little for the stings of the[Page 176]angry bees as he would of the bills of so many mosquitoes, the thickcoating of fur forming a perfect protection against his wingedantagonists. The badger is very susceptible to human influence, andcan be effectually tamed with but little trouble. Although his generalappearance would not indicate it, he is a sly and cunning animal, andnot easily captured in a trap of any kind. He has been known to setat defiance all the traps that were set for him, and to devourthe baits without suffering for his audacity. He will sometimesoverturn a trap and spring it from the under side, before attemptingto remove the bait. Although not quite as crafty as the fox, it isnecessary to use much of the same caution in trapping the badger, as a bare trap seldom wins more than a look of contempt from thewary animal. 

[Illustration]

The usual mode of catching the creature is to set the trap sizeNo. 3 at the mouth of its burrow, carefully covering it with looseearth and securing it by a chain to a stake. Any of the methodsused in trapping the fox will also be found to work admirably. The dead-fall or garrote will also do good service. Bait with arat, mouse, or with whatever else the animal is especially fond, and scent with Oil of Anise or Musk. In early spring, while theground is still hard, badgers are easily captured by flooding theirburrows. After being satisfied that the animal is in its hole, proceed to pour in pailful after pailful of water at the entrance. [Page 177]He will not long be able to stand this sort of thing, and he maybe secured as he makes his exit at the opening of the burrow. 

The skin should be removed whole, as in the case of the fox, oras described for the beaver, and stretched as therein indicated. 

THE BEAVER. 

The Beaver of North America has now a world-wide reputation forits wonderful instinct and sagacity. The general appearance ofthis animal is that of a very large muskrat with a broad flattenedtail, and the habits of both these animals are in many respectsalike. The beaver is an amphibious creature and social in its habitsof living, large numbers congregating together and forming littlevillages, and erecting their dome-like huts like little Esquimaux. The muskrat has this same propensity, but the habitation of thebeaver is on a much more extensive scale. These huts or "Beaverlodges, " are generally made in rivers and brooks; although sometimesin lakes or large ponds. They are chiefly composed of branches, moss, grass and mud, and are large enough to accommodate a familyof five or six. The form of the "lodges" is dome-like, and it variesconsiderably in size. The foundation is made on the bottom of theriver, and the hut is built up like a mound, often twenty feetin diameter and projecting several feet above the surface of thewater. The walls of this structure are often five or six feet thick, and the roofs are all finished off with a thick layer of mud laid onwith marvellous smoothness. These huts form the winter habitationsof the beavers, and as this compost of mud, grass and branchesbecomes congealed into a solid mass by the severe frosts of ournorthern winter, it can easily be seen that they afford a safeshelter against any intruder and particularly the wolverine, whichis a most deadly enemy to the beaver. So hard does this frozen massbecome as to defy even the edges of iron tools, and the breakingopen of the "Beaver houses" is at no time an easy task. Beaverswork almost entirely in the dark; and a pond which is calm andplacid in the day time will be found in the night to be full oflife and motion, and the squealing and splashing in the water willbear evidence of their industry. Lest the beavers should not havea sufficient depth of water at all seasons, they are in the habitof constructing veritable dams to ensure that result. These damsdisplay a wonderful amount of reason and skill, and, together withthe huts, have won for the beaver a reputation[Page 178]for engineering skill which the creature truly deserves. In constructingthese ingenious dams the beavers, by the aid of their powerful teeth, gnaw down trees sometimes of large size, and after cutting them intosmaller pieces float them on the water to the spot selected forthe embankment. In swift streams this embankment is built so asto arch against the current, thus securing additional strength, and evincing an instinct on the part of the animal which amountsalmost to reason. In cutting down the trees the beaver gnaws acircular cut around the trunk, cutting deepest on the side towardthe water, thus causing the trunk to fall into the stream. Thefirst step in constructing the embankment is to lay the logs downcautiously in the required line of the dam, afterwards weightingthem with heavy stones, which the beavers by their united effortsroll upon them. The foundation of the embankment is often ten feetin width, and is built up by continued heaping of branches, stonesand mud, until it forms a barrier of immense strength and resistingpower. In many cases, through a lapse of years, and through a[Page 179]consequent accumulation of floating leaves, twigs, and seeds of plants, these embankments become thickly covered with vegetation, and, in manycases in the Hudson Bay country, have even been known to nurture treesof considerable dimensions. The broad flat tail of the animal serves amost excellent purpose, in carrying the mud to the dams or huts, andin matting and smoothing it into a solidity. 

[Illustration]

The entrances to the various huts are all beneath the water, andthey all open into one common ditch, which is purposely dug inthe bed of the river, and is too deep to be entirely frozen. Inthe summer time the huts are vacated, and the beavers make theirabode in burrows on the banks of the stream, which serve as a secureretreat at all times, and particularly in winter when their housesare molested. The Indians of the Northwest are aware of this fact, and turn it to good account in the capture of the animals. 

When the beaver's village is in a small creek, or brook, it isfirst necessary to stake the water across both above and belowthe huts. The next thing is to ascertain the exact spots of theburrows in the banks, and when we consider the river is coveredwith ice, this seems a rather difficult problem. But this is wherethe Indian shows his skill. He starts upon the ice, provided withan ice chisel secured to a long, stout handle. With this he strikesupon the ice, following the edge of the stream. The sound of theblow determines to his practiced ear the direct spot opposite theopening of the burrows, and at this point a hole a foot in diameteris made through the ice. Following the edge of the bank he continueshis search, and in like manner cuts the holes through the ice untilall the retreats are discovered. While the expert Indians are thusengaged, the "squaws" are occupied in the more laborious work ofbreaking open the houses, and the beavers, alarmed at the invasion oftheir sanctums, make for the banks, and the ready huntsmen stationedat the various holes, watch for their victims beneath the openings, until a violent motion or discoloration of the water betrays theirpassage beneath. The entrance to the holes in the bank are theninstantly closed with stakes and the beaver is made prisoner inhis burrow. When the depth of the burrow will admit, the arm ofthe hunter is introduced, and the animal pulled out, but otherwisea long hook lashed to a pole is employed for this purpose. Scoresof beavers are sometimes taken in this way in a few hours. Spearingis also often successfully resorted to, and when the ice is thin[Page 180]and transparent the beavers may be clearly observed as they cometo the surface, beneath the ice, for air. 

The general color of the animal is reddish brown, this tint beingimparted principally by the long hairs of the fur. There is aninner and softer down of a grey color, which lies next the skin, and which is the valuable growth of the fur. The total length ofthe animal is about three feet and a half, the flat, paddle-shaped, scale-covered tail being about a foot in length. 

The young are brought forth in April or May, from three to sevenat a litter, and take to the water when a month old. The firstfour years in the beaver's life is spent under the "maternal roof, "after which period they shift for themselves. To trap the beaversuccessfully, requires the utmost caution, as the senses of theanimal are so keen, and he is so sagacious withal, that he will detectthe recent presence of the trapper from the slightest evidences. The traps should be washed clean and soaked in ley, before using, and thereafter handled with gloves, as a mere touch of the fingerwill leave a scent which the acute sense of the beaver will easilyperceive. All footprints should be carefully obliterated by throwingwater upon them, and some trappers say that the mere act of spittingon the ground in the neighborhood of the traps has been known tothwart success. 

Almost the only bait used in trapping the beaver is the preparationcalled "barkstone" by the trappers, or "castoreum" in commerce. This substance is fully described on page 150 under the head of"Scent Baits. "

To the barkstone the trapper is mostly indebted for his success, and the effect of its odor on the beaver is something surprising. Our best trappers inform us that these animals will scent thisodor for a great distance, and will fairly "squeal with delight, "not being easy until the savory bait is discovered, which almostinvariably results in capture. 

Taking advantage of this curious propensity, the trapper alwayscarries a supply of castoreum in a closed vessel. 

There are various ways of trapping the beaver, of which we shallpresent the best. An examination of the river bank will easilydisclose the feeding place of the beavers, as evinced by the absenceof the bark on the branches and trunks of trees. At this spot, in about four inches of water, set your trap, which should be aNewhouse No. 4. Weight the end of the chain with a stone as largeas your head, and, if possible, rest it on the edge of some rockprojecting into deep water, having a smaller rope or chain leadingfrom the stone to the shore. A small twig, the size of your little[Page 181]finger, should then be stripped of its bark, and after chewing ormashing one end, it should be dipped in the castoreum. Insert thisstick in the mud, between the jaws of the trap, letting it projectabout six inches above the water. The beaver is soon attracted by theodor of the bait, and in reaching for it, his foot is caught in thetrap. In his fright he will immediately jump for deep water, thusdislodging the stone, which will sink him to the bottom, and thusdrown him. The smaller chain or rope will serve as a guide to thetrap, and the victim may be drawn to the surface. Another plan isto set the trap in about a foot of water, chaining it fast to a stoutpole securely driven in the mud further out in the stream, andnear deep water. Bait as before. The trap being thus fastened willprevent the efforts of the animal to drag it ashore, where he wouldbe certain to amputate his leg and walk off. There is another method, which is said to work excellently. The chain is secured to a veryheavy stone, and sunk in deep water, and the trap set and baitednear shore, in about a foot of water. This accomplishes the samepurpose as the pole first described, and is even surer, as the animalwill sometimes use his teeth in severing the wood, and thereby makehis escape. In the case of the stone a duplicate rope or chainwill be required to lift it in case of capture. 

The trap may be set at the entrance to the holes in the banks, two or three inches under water, implanting the stick with thecastoreum bait directly over the pan, a few inches above the water. If the water should be deep near this spot, it is an excellent planto weight the end of the chain with a large stone with a "leader"from it also, as already described. Insert two or three sticks inthe bank beneath the water, and rest the stone upon them. 

When the beaver is caught he will turn a somersault into deep water, at the same time dislodging the stone, which will sink him. No sooneris a break ascertained in the dam than all the beavers unite infixing it, and this peculiarity of habit may be turned to account intrapping them. Make a slight break in the dam, five inches across, beneath the water. On the under side of the break, and of course, on the inside of the dam, the trap should be set. The beavers willsoon discover the leak and the capture of at least _one_ is certain. The trap may be also set where the beavers are wont to crawl onshore, being placed several inches below the water in such a positionthat they will step on it when in the act of ascending the banks. Where the weighted stone is not used, the sliding pole page 145[Page 182]should always be employed, as it is necessary to drown the animal, to prevent amputation and escape. 

The food of the beaver consists chiefly of the bark of varioustrees, together with aquatic plants. The fur is valuable only inthe late fall, winter, and early spring. 

In skinning the beaver, a slit is made from the under jaw to thevent, after which it is easily removed. It should be tacked to a flatboard, fur side in, or stretched by means of a hoop, as describedon page 275. 

THE MUSKRAT. 

The muskrat, or musquash, is very much like a beaver on a smallscale, and is so well-known throughout the United States that adetailed description or illustration will hardly be necessary. Reduce the size of the beaver to one foot in length, and add along flattened tail, instead of the spatula-shaped appendage ofthis animal, and we will have a pretty good specimen of a muskrat. The body has that same thick-set appearance, and the gnawing teethare very large and powerful. Like the beaver, the muskrat buildsits dome-like huts in ponds or swamps, which it frequents; andalthough not as large as those of the beaver they are constructedin the same manner and of the same materials. Muskrats are mostlynocturnal in their habits; they are tireless swimmers, and in thewinter travel great distances beneath the ice; all of whichpeculiarities are like the beaver. Their food is quite variable, consisting of grass and roots, oats, corn and other grain, applesand nuts, and even tomatoes, turnips, carrots, mussels and clams, whenever these can be found. 

The muskrat is a native of all of the Eastern, Western, and MiddleStates and also the Southern States, with the exception of Georgia, Alabama and Florida. They are also found in Canada and the Arcticregions, and in the North-west. They are hunted and captured asa means of support to the native tribes of Indians who sell ortrade the furs to Eastern dealers. The fur somewhat resembles thatof the mink in texture, although not as fine, and the color variesfrom dark brown above to grey beneath. It is in its best conditionduring the winter, especially in March. The animal possesses amusky smell, from which it takes its name. It is said by many thatthe flesh of the animal, when carefully prepared, becomes quitepalatable food. 

Their houses are so nearly like those of the beaver that a[Page 183]second description is scarcely necessary. They are often five orsix feet in height, and the entrances are all under water. Dozensof these huts may often be seen in ponds and marshes, and sometimesthey exist in such numbers as to give the appearance of a veritableEsquimaux village. These houses are used only in the winter season. In general the muskrat lives in burrows, which it excavates in thebanks of ponds or streams, bringing forth its young, from threeto nine in number, in the nest, which it forms at the end of thetunnel. They are very prolific, producing three litters a year. Likethe beaver, otter and mink, the muskrat can travel long distancesunder the ice with only one supply of fresh air, and its methodis certainly very interesting. Before plunging beneath the icethe animal fills its lungs with air, and when under the water itswims until it can no longer hold its breath. It then rises upbeneath the ice, empties its lungs, the air remaining in bubblesbeneath the ice. In a short time this air absorbs sufficient oxygenfrom the water and ice as to be life-sustaining, when the animalagain inhales it and proceeds on its journey. It is by this meansthat the beaver, muskrat and mink are enabled to travel such greatdistances beneath unbroken ice, and it is certainly a very noveland interesting method. Where the ice is thin and transparent theseanimals are sometimes captured through the means of this habit. A heavy stroke on the frozen hut will drive its occupants to thewater, and their course may easily be followed through the ice. If one of them is tracked, he will presently be seen to stop atthe surface of the water for fresh oxygen, as already described. The bubbles will soon appear, and if the hunter immediately strikeswith an axe or heavy stick directly on the spot, the submergedanimal will be literally driven away from its breath, and willof course drown in a very few minutes. A short search will soonreveal the dead creature, after which he may be taken out througha hole cut in the ice. Otter and mink are sometimes taken in thesame way. In many localities great numbers of muskrats are alsocaptured by spearing, either through the ice or through the wallsof their houses. In the latter case, two are often taken at once. This method is quite uncertain and unreliable, as the walls ofthe hut are often so firmly frozen as to defy the thrust of thehardest steel, and a fruitless attempt will drive the inmates fromtheir house at once. The spear generally used consists of a singleshaft of steel about eighteen inches in length and half an inchin diameter, barbed at the point, and is feruled to a[Page 184]solid handle five feet long. In spearing through the hut the southside is generally selected, as being more exposed to the heat ofthe sun. Great caution is necessary, as the slightest noise willdrive out the inmates. The spear should be thrust in a slantingdirection, a few inches above the surface of the ice. Where manyhouses exist it is well to destroy all but one. Into this the wholetribe will centre, and by successive spearing they may all be captured. When the spear has been thrust into the house, it must be thusleft until a hole is cut with a hatchet, through which to removethe game. Spearing through the ice is a better method, but forgeneral service there is no means of capture more desirable thanby trapping. The steel trap No. 1 or 2 is the size particularlyadapted for the muskrat, and may be set in various ways. The mostcommon method is to set the trap under two inches of water on theprojecting logs or stones on the border of the streams where the"signs" of the animal indicate its recent presence. The trap shouldof course be secured by a chain, ringed to a sliding pole, page145, which will lead the animal into deep water when captured, and thus effect its speedy death by drowning. In this case bait isnot necessary. If their feeding grounds can be discovered, or iftheir tracks indicate any particular spot where they crawl ashoreat the water's edge, at this point a trap may be set with goodsuccess. In this instance it is well also to set it under water, baiting with a piece of turnip, parsnip, apple, or the like, suspendeda few inches above the pan of the trap. Late in the fall, whencollecting their building material, they often form large beds ofdried grasses and sticks, and a trap set in these beds and coveredwith some loose substance, such as grass, chaff, or the like, willoften secure the animal. The trap, in this case should be attachedto a spring-pole, page 145 as the muskrat is a wonderful adeptat self-amputation, when its escape depends upon it. 

The trap is sometimes set in the interior of the house, and maybe accomplished by first breaking an opening in the wall, nearthe ice, the trap being inserted and set, afterwards covering itwith the loose grass and moss, which is generally abundant in theinterior of these huts. When this is done, the chain should besecured to a stick on the outside, and the hole repaired. No springor sliding-pole is necessary in this method, as the animal whencaught will immediately run for the water, and the weight of thetrap will sink and drown its prisoner. 

Scent baits are sometimes used in trapping the muskrat, the[Page 185]musk taken from the female animal being particularly valued. TheOils of Rhodium and Amber, page 151 are also successfully employedby many trappers; a few drops of either in the neighborhood ofthe trap, or directly upon it, being sufficient. 

Although steel traps are most generally used, there are severalother devices which are equally if not even _more_ desirable. Chiefamong these is the barrel trap, commonly and successfully employedin many parts of New England, where these animals often exist insuch numbers as to render their destruction a matter of necessity. 

The above trap consists merely of an old barrel, sunk to its upperedge in the river bank, and about half filled with water. On thesurface of the water a few light pieces of wood are floated, overwhich the bait, consisting of carrot, sweet apple, or turnip, isplaced. A trail is then made by dragging a piece of scented meatfrom the barrel in various directions, and a few pieces of thebait are also strewn along these trails. The muskrats will thusbe led to the barrel, and will be certain to jump in after thetempting morsels, and their escape is impossible. No less thana dozen muskrats have been thus caught in a single barrer in onenight, and a few of these traps have been known almost to exterminatethe musquashes in localities where they had previously existed insuch numbers as to become a pestilence to the neighborhood. 

A barrel trap constructed on the principle described on page 131is also equally effective, although rather more complicated inconstruction. The Twitch-up is often used, and possesses the advantageof a trap and spring-pole combined. Box traps, page 103, are alsoto be recommended. 

The skin of the muskrat may be removed in the same manner as hereinafterdescribed for the otter, with the exception of the tail. This isconsidered the best method. It may also be taken off flat by rippingfrom the under jaw to the vent, and peeling around the eyes andmouth, letting the skin of the legs come off whole, without cutting. 

Another common method consists in cutting off the feet, and thenripping with a knife from the front of the lower jaw down the neckand belly to a point a little beyond the forelegs. The lips, eyes, andears are then carefully skinned, and the hide is stripped backwardsfrom the body. In the latter method the bow-stretcher, page 274, is used. 

[Page 186]THE OTTER. 

The fur of this animal is of such exquisite softness and beautyas to be in great demand for commercial purposes, bringing a veryhigh price in the fur market. 

[Illustration]

The otter cannot be said to be a common animal, although it isfound throughout the United States and Canada, being rather moreplentiful in the cold northern localities than in the southernlatitudes. It is an amphibious animal, and can remain for a longtime beneath the water. In size it is larger than a cat, and itpossesses a tapering tail some eighteen inches in length. Its furis of a rich brown color, and the hair is of two kinds, the one aclose, fine, and exquisitely soft down, which lies next the skin, and which serves to protect the animal from the extremes of heat andcold, and the other composed of long shining coarser hairs, whichpermit the animal to glide easily through the water. In producingthe beautiful otter furs of fashion these long hairs are pluckedout, leaving only the softer down next the hide. The food of theotter mostly consists of fish, for the pursuit of which he hasbeen admirably endowed by nature. His body is lithe and supple, and his feet are furnished with a broad web, which connects thetoes, and is of infinite service in propelling the animal through[Page 187]the water when in search of his finny prey. His long, broad and flattail serves as a most effectual rudder, and the joints of his powerfullegs are so flexible as to permit of their being turned in almost anydirection. 

The habitation of the otter is made in the banks of the river whichit frequents, or sometimes in a hollow log or crevice beneath rocks. The animal generally prefers to adopt and occupy a natural hollowor deserted excavation, rather than to dig a burrow for itself. The nest is composed of dry rushes, grasses and sticks, and theyoung, three or four in number, are produced in early spring. 

The _track_ which the otter makes in the mud or snow is easilydistinguished from that of any other animal, on account of the"seal" or impression which is made by a certain ball on the sole ofthe foot. Otter hunting is a favorite sport in England, and indeedin the northern parts of our own country. Hounds are used to pursuethe animal, and on account of the powerfully scented secretion withwhich the creature is furnished by nature, its track is readilyfollowed. When attacked, the otter is a fierce and terrible fighter, biting and snapping with most deadly energy and never yielding aslong as life remains in the body. The bite of an angry otter isextremely severe, and for this reason we would caution the amateurtrapper on handling the animal should one be taken alive. 

Although so fierce and savage when attacked, the otter is easilytamed when taken young, and can be taught to catch fish for theservice of its master, rather than for the gratification of itsown palate. 

In the winter when the snow is on the ground, the otter navigatesby sliding, and when on the ice he may often be seen to run a fewsteps and then throw himself on his belly and slide the distanceof several feet. They are very fond of playing in the snow, andmake most glorious use of any steep snow-covered bank, slopingtoward the river. Ascending to the top of such an incline theythrow themselves on the slippery surface and thus slide swiftlyinto the water. This pastime is often continued for hours, andis taken advantage of in trapping the playful creatures. A shortsearch will reveal the place where they crawl from the water onto the bank, and at this spot, which will generally be shallow, a steel trap should be set on the bed of the river, about fourinches under water. The trap should be secured by a stout chain, the latter being ringed to a sliding pole, page 145, which willlead the animal when caught into deep[Page 188]water. If deep water is not near at hand, the spring pole, page144, may be used, the object of either being to prevent the animalfrom gnawing off its leg and thus making its escape. 

The trap may also be placed at the top or the slide, two or threefeet back of the slope, a place being hollowed out to receive itand the whole covered with snow. To make success more certain alog may be laid on each side of the trap, thus forming an avenuein which the animal will be sure to run before throwing itself onthe slope. Care should be taken to handle nothing with the barehands, as the otter is very keen scented and shy. Anoint the trapwith a few drops of fish oil or otter musk, see page 151. If noneof these are handy, ordinary musk will answer very well. 

The trap may also be set and weighted with a heavy stone and chain, as described for trapping the beaver. Another method still is tofind some log in the stream having one end projecting above water. Sprinkle some musk on this projecting end and set the trap on thelog in three or four inches of water, securing it firmly by a chain, also beneath the water. 

A rock which projects over the stream may also be utilized in thesame way as seen in the page title at the opening of this section. Smear the musk on the edge which juts into the water, and securethe trap by the chain as before. When the animal is caught he willfall or jump into the water, and the weight of the trap and chainwill sink him. In every case it is necessary to obliterate everysign of human presence by throwing water over every foot print, andover everything with which the naked hands have come in contact. Where the traps are thus set in the water it should be done whilewading or in a boat. In the winter when the ponds and rivers arefrozen over the otters make holes through the ice at which theycome up to devour their prey. Where the water is a foot deep beneathany of these holes the trap may be set in the bottom, the chainbeing secured to a heavy stone. When the otter endeavors to emergefrom the hole he will press his foot on the trap and will thusbe caught. If the water is deep beneath the hole the trap may bebaited with a small fish attached to the pan, and then carefullylowered with its chain and stone to the bottom. For this purposethe Newhouse, No. 3, is best adapted, as the otter is in this casecaught by the head. 

The beaten track of the animal may often be discovered in the snowin the winter time, and a trap carefully sunk in such a furrowand covered so as to resemble its surroundings, will be likelyto secure the first otter that endeavors to pass over it. A trapset at the mouth of the otter's burrow and carefully covered[Page 189]is also often successful, using the sliding pole, page 145, to leadhim into deep water. 

Every trapper has his pet theories and methods of trapping allthe different animals, and the otter has its full share. We havegiven several of the _best_ methods; and anyone of them will securethe desired result of capture, and all of them have stood the testof time and experience. 

The skin of the otter should be removed whole, and the operationmay be performed in the following manner: Slit down the hind legsto the vent; cut the skin loose around the vent, and slit up theentire length of the tail, freeing it from the bone. With the aidof the knife the skin should now be peeled off, drawing it backwardand carefully cutting around the mouth and eyes before taking itfrom the head. 

With the fur thus inside, the skin is ready for the stretcher asdescribed on page 273, and the tail should be spread out and tackedaround the edges. 

THE MINK. 

This animal, as will be seen by our illustration, has a long, slenderbody, something like the weasel, to which scientific family itbelongs. It inhabits the greater part of North America, and is alsofound abundantly in Northern Europe. The color of its fur variesconsiderably in different individuals, the general tint being a rich, dark brown. The chin and throat are light colored, sometimes white, and this spot varies considerably in size in different individuals, sometimes extending down on the throat to a considerable distance. The total length of the animal is from thirteen to sixteen inches, its size being variable. 

The fur of the mink is excellent in quality, and has for many yearsbeen one of the "fancy furs" of fashion, a good prime skin oftenbringing from ten to twelve dollars. The introduction of the furseal, however, and the universal demand for this as well as otterfur, has somewhat thrown the mink into comparative shade, althoughextra fine skins will still command high prices. 

The mink is an aquatic animal, inhabiting small rivers and streams, and living somewhat after the manner of the otter. It has a mostwide range of diet, and will eat almost anything which is at alleatable. Fishes, frogs, and muskrats are his especial delight, and he will occasionally succeed in pouncing upon a snipe or wildduck, which he will greedily devour. Crawfish, [Page 190]snails, and water insects of all kinds also come within therange of his diet, and he sometimes makes a stray visit to someneighboring poultry yard to satisfy the craving of his abnormalhunger. A meal off from his own offspring often answers the samepurpose; and a young chicken in the egg he considers the ne plusultra of delicacies. The voracity of this animal is its leadingcharacteristic, and is so largely in excess of its cunning or sagacitythat it will often run headlong into a naked trap. Its sense ofsmell is exceedingly well developed, and through this faculty itis often enabled to track its prey with ease and certainty. Themink lives in burrows, in steep banks, or between rocks or theroots of trees, and the young, five or six in number, are broughtforth in May. 

[Illustration]

The chief occupation of the mink consists in perpetual search forsomething to eat, and, when so engaged, he may be seen runningalong the bank of the stream, peering into every nook and corner, and literally "leaving no stone unturned" in its eager search. Taking advantage of this habit, it becomes an easy matter to trapthe greedy animal. Set your trap, a Newhouse No. 2, in an inchof water near the edge of the stream, and directly in front ofa steep bank or rock, on which you can place your bait. The baitmay be a frog, fish, or head of a[Page 191]bird, suspended about eighteen inches above the water, and shouldbe so situated that in order to reach it, the mink will be obligedto tread upon the trap. The trap may also be set in the water andthe bait suspended eighteen inches above it, by the aid of a switchplanted in the mud near the trap. It is a good plan to scent thebait with an equal mixture of sweet oil and peppermint, with alittle honey added. If there is deep water near, the sliding pole, page 145, should be used, and if not, the "spring pole" in everycase, in order to prevent the captured mink from becoming a prey tolarger animals, and also to guard against his escape by amputation, which he would otherwise most certainly accomplish. 

The trap may be set on the land, near the water's edge, baitingas just described, and lightly covered with leaves or dirt. Anyarrangement of the trap whereby the animal is obliged to treadupon it in order to secure the bait, will be found effectual. 

The trap may be set at the foot of a tree, and the bait fastenedto the trunk, eighteen inches above it. A pen, such as is describedon page 144, may be constructed, and the trap and bait arranged asthere directed. Minks have their regular beaten paths, and oftenvisit certain hollow logs in their runways. In these logs theyleave unmistakable signs of their presence, and a trap set in sucha place is sure of success. 

Some trappers set a number of traps along the stream at intervalsof several rods, connecting them by a trail, see page 153, the minkbeing thus led directly and almost certainly to his destruction. This trail is made by smearing a piece of wood with the "medicine"described at page 153, and dragging it on the line of the traps. Any mink which crosses this trail will follow it to the first trap, when he will, in all probability, be captured. A dead muskrat, crow, fish, or a piece of fresh meat dragged along the line answers thesame purpose. The beaten tracks of the mink may often be discovered, and a trap set in such a track and covered with leaves, dirt or thelike, will often be successful. 

Minks may also be easily caught in the dead-fall. Garrote trapor a twitch-up, baiting with fish, muskrat, flesh, or the headof a bird, of which the animal is especially fond. A liberal useof the "medicine" is also desirable. 

The fur of the mink is in its best condition in the late autumn, winter, and early spring, and the animal should be skinned as describedfor the fox. 

[Page 192]THE PINE MARTEN. 

This animal belongs to the tribe of "weasels, " and is closely alliedto the celebrated sable, which it greatly resembles. The pine martenis so called because it inhabits the northern climates where pineforests abound, and spends much of its life in the trees in searchof its prey. Its general appearance is truly represented in ourillustration, its fur being of a rich brown color, with a lighteror white patch on the throat. Its total length, including the tail, is about twenty-eight or thirty inches, of which the tail representsten inches. It is mostly confined to the forests in the far north, and is comparatively rare further south than the latitude of Maineand the lakes. The fur of the pine marten is of considerable value, particularly if the animal be killed in the winter. A really fineskin is but little inferior to the celebrated sable, and is hardlydistinguishable from it. The hair is long and glossy, and the underfur is beautifully soft and very thick. The dark colored skins arethe most valuable. Although so nearly like the sable, the samecomparison does not exist in regard to their proportionate marketvalues, the marten fur bringing a much lower price. 

[Illustration]

The marten is a shy and wary animal, withdrawing itself as faras possible from the sight of man, and building its habitation inthe tops of trees, often seizing on the ready nest of some squirrelor bird, and adapting it to its purposes. 

[Page 193]It is a night prowler, and in the dark hours it traverses the trunksand branches of the trees in search of its prey. It moves withwonderful stealth and activity, and is enabled by its rapid andsilent approach to steal unnoticed on many an unfortunate birdor squirrel, seizing it in its deadly grip before the startledcreature can think to escape. Coming across a bird's nest, it makessad havoc with the eggs or young, often adding the parent birdto his list of victims. Rabbits, partridges, and mice also fallinto the marten's "bill of fare, " and the list is often furtherincreased by a visit to a poultry yard, when the animal murdersand eats all it can and kills the rest for sport. In pouncing uponits prey, the marten invariably seizes its victim by the throat, often dispatching the luckless creature with a single bite. 

The martens generally are said to be very susceptible to humaninfluence when taken young, and are very lively in a state ofdomestication. They are among the most graceful of animals, andin place of the disagreeable scent which renders many of theirtribe offensive, this creature possesses an odor which is quiteagreeable, and for this reason is often called the sweet martenin contradistinction to the foul marten or pole cat of Britain, which is like unto our skunk in the disgusting stench which itexhales. 

The dead-fall and Garrote traps are very successful in trappingthe martin. They should be set several rods apart, in the forestor on the banks of streams, and a trail established by dragginga dead or roasted crow, entrails of a bird, or fresh meat fromone trap to another, as described in relation to the mink, page190. The twitch-up may also be used, and possesses the additionaladvantage of acting as a spring pole, thus holding the capturedvictim out of reach of larger animals, to which it might otherwisebecome a prey. Any of the varieties described under the title of"twitch-up" will answer the purpose, and a little experimentingwill soon prove which one will be the most successful for thisparticular animal. The bait may consist of a bird's or fowl's head, fish, liver, or any fresh meat or entrails. 

The common box trap, page 103, or the box snare, page 56, may alsobe used to good purpose, but the former will need to be carefullywatched lest the enclosed prisoner gnaw his way out and thus escape. 

When the steel trap is employed, it should be of the size of Newhouse, No. 2-1/2, set on the ground beneath some rock, [Page 194]and covered with leaves, rotten wood, or earth, and the bait fastenedor suspended about eighteen inches above it, in such a positionthat the animal will be obliged to step upon the trap in order toreach it. An enclosure may be constructed of stones piled together, the trap being set and covered in the opening and the bait securedat the back. A staked pen, such as is described on page 143, withthe trap and bait arranged as there directed, also works well. Wherever or however the trap is set, the bait should be so placedthat the animal cannot possibly climb on any neighboring object toreach it. The hollow of a tree trunk forms an excellent situationfor the trap, and the same hollow may also be baited at the backand a dead-fall constructed across its opening. The box or barrelpit-fall, described on page 127, is said to be very successful intrapping the marten, always baiting it with the platform securefor a few days before setting for capture. The same methods directedfor the capture of the mink are also useful in trapping the marten. The animal should be skinned as described for the fox. 

THE FISHER. 

This animal is classed among the martens, and is principally tobe found in Canada and the Northern United States, where it isknown as the black cat, or woodshock. In our natural histories itis described under the name of the pekan. 

In general habits, this species resembles the other martens, but itsbody inclines more to the weasel shape. The fur is quite valuable, and much resembles the sable. Its color is generally of a greyishbrown, the grey tint being found chiefly on the back, neck, headand shoulders, the legs, tail, and back of the neck being markedwith dark brown. Like the marten, the fisher prowls by night, frequenting swampy places in quest of food. 

It builds its habitation in hollow trees, and in burrows, which itexcavates in the banks of rivers or streams, and its young (generallytwins) are produced in early spring. The trapping season for thefisher commences at about the middle of October, and extends tothe middle of May, after which time the fur decreases in value. 

In trapping the fisher, the same plans may be used as for the martenand mink, as these animals much resemble each other in generalhabits. The steel trap arranged in an artificial or[Page 195]natural enclosure, or otherwise so set as that the animal will beobliged to step on it in order to reach the bait, will be successfuland the use of composition "scent bait, " described on page 153 willbe found to enhance success. In every case where the steel trapis used the spring pole, page 144, should always be employed, forthe reasons already described. 

Dead-falls, garrotes, box-traps, twitch-ups, or pit-falls, mayall be employed to good advantage. Bait with a fish or bird, orfresh meat of any kind, and connect the various traps by a trail, as described for the mink and marten. 

Remove the skin as directed for the fox, and stretch as describedon page 273. 

THE SKUNK. 

This disgusting animal has won the unenviable but deserving reputationof being the most foul-smelling creature on the face of the globe. He belongs to the weasel tribe, and all these animals are notedfor certain odors which they possess, but the skunk is pre-eminentin the utter noisomeness of the horrid effluvium which it exhales. 

This scent proceeds from a liquid secretion which collects in agland beneath the insertion of the tail, and the animal has thepower to eject or retain it at will. 

It must have been given to the creature as a means of defence, for there seems to be no animal that can withstand the influenceof its fetid stench. Dogs are trained to hunt the animal, but untilthey have learned from experience the right method of attacking thefetid game, and have discovered the whereabouts of the animal'smagazine of ammunition, they are of little use to the hunter, andare only too glad to plunge into some neighboring brook, or rollin some near earth, in hopes of ridding themselves of the stenchwhich almost distracts them. The offensive propensities of theskunk are only exercised when the animal is alarmed or frightened. There are generally certain "premonitory symptoms" of attack whichthe creature usually exhibits, and it is well to retire from his"shooting range" as soon as they are observed. 

When the animal is ready to discharge his battery, he suddenlyelevates his large bushy tail, over his body, and turns his backon his enemy. The result of the discharge fills the air for a greatdistance around, and man and beast fly from the neighborhood ofthe indescribable and fetid effluvium, which fairly makes one'snostrils _ache_. 

[Page 196]A single drop of this disgusting secretion on the clothes is enoughto scent the whole garment, and it is almost impossible to ridthe tainted fabric from the odor. 

It is extremely acrid in quality, and if a very small quantityfall upon the eyes, it is very apt to produce permanent blindness. 

Dogs, in their first experiences with the skunk, are frequentlythus blinded, and there are well authenticated instances of humanbeings who have been deprived of their sight through their closeproximity to an infuriated skunk. 

[Illustration]

The writer, in his extreme youth, learned, through dear experience, the putrid qualities of this noisome quadruped. It was on one brightSunday, in New England, and he was out in his Sunday clothing, gathering wild strawberries. He suddenly discovered a pretty littleplayful animal with bushy tail, romping in the grass near him. The creature was seemingly gentle, and showed no inclination torun away, and the pet-loving nature of the writer prompted anirresistible desire to capture so pretty a creature. Encouragedby its gentle manner, he eagerly ran towards the tempting prize, and grasping it by the bushy tail, which the animal had raisedperpendicularly, as if for a handle, the pretty creature was locked[Page 197]in the affectionate embrace of its youthful admirer. But alas! hesoon repented his rashness, and the treacherous "pet" was quicklyflung away leaving its victim in such a foul state of overwhelmingastonishment as can be more easily imagined than described. 

Every article of clothing worn on that eventful Sunday had to beburied, and it took weeks of Sundays before the odor could be thoroughlyeradicated from the hair and skin of the individual who wore thoseSunday garments. After this adventure, the youth became more cautiouswith respect to pretty little playful animals, with black and whitefur and bushy tails. 

There is hardly a farmer in the country but what has had some amusingor serious experience with the skunk, and almost every trapperhas, at one time or another, served as a target for his shootingpropensities. Natural histories are replete with anecdotes of whichthis animal is the mephitic hero, and volumes might be filled tothe glory of his strong-smelling qualities. 

Perhaps it is through the prejudice of the writer that he cannotenthusiastically recommend the skunk as a domestic pet; but itis nevertheless asserted, on good authority, that these animals, when reared from the young, become very interesting and playfulin the household, and completely shut down on their objectionablefaculties. 

Our illustration gives a very good idea of the animal, and it isso unlike any other creature that a further description will notbe necessary. The prevailing colors are white and black; but thesevary much in proportion, the animal sometimes being almost totallywhite, or altogether black. The fur is long, and comparatively coarse, being intermixed with long, glossy hairs, and is most valuable inthe black animal. The body of the creature is about a foot and ahalf in length, exclusive of the tail, which adds about fourteeninches more. 

The skunk is generally nocturnal in its habits, secreting itselfduring the day in hollow trees, or crevices in rocks, or wood-piles. At night it ventures forth in quest of its food, which consistschiefly of grasshoppers, worms and other insects, wild fruit andsuch small animals in the shape of frogs, mice and birds as it cancapture. The poultry yard often offers an irresistible temptation, and both fowls and eggs often serve to appease his appetite. 

The skunk is common throughout the greater part of North America, and in many localities the numbers increase very[Page 198]rapidly unless checked. The young are brought forth in burrowsor holes in rocks during April or May, and are from six to ninein number. 

"Skunk fur" does not sound well when thought of in connection witha set of fashionable furs; and for this reason the pelt of thisanimal is dignified by the name of Alaska sable by all dealers inthe article. When known by this fancy title it suddenly becomes avery popular addition to fashion's winter wardrobe, and is one ofthe leading furs which are exported to meet the demand of foreigncountries. Foul as the animal is, it seldom soils its own fur withits offensive fluid; and when carefully skinned the fur is as saleableas that of any other animal. 

The Skunk is trapped in a variety of ways; and as the animal isnot cunning, no great skill is required. The steel trap is mostcommonly used, as other wooden varieties, box traps or dead-falls, for instance, are apt to absorb and retain the stench of the animal. In using the steel trap the size No. 2 should be taken. It may beset at the entrance to their burrows or in their feeding grounds. It should be covered with loose earth or chaff, or some other lightsubstance, and baited with small bits of meat, dead mice, or eggsplaced around it. The enclosure illustrated on page 143 also answerswell, and in all cases the spring pole, page 144, should be used. The dead-fall, page 107, is often employed, and the twitch-up, page43, is a particularly effective contrivance for their capture, oftenpreventing the evil consequences of the odor by causing instantdislocation of the neck, and this without injuring the fur. A strokeupon the backbone near the tail, by producing paralysis of theparts, also prevents the animal from using his offensive powers, and a dead-fall so constructed as to fall upon the animal at thispart will accomplish the same effect. To manage this it is onlynecessary to place the bait far back in the enclosure, so thatthe skunk on reaching it will bring the rear portion of his bodybeneath the suspended log. The scent of the skunk is as we havesaid, almost ineradicable, but we would recommend chloride of limeas the most effectual antidote. 

It is also said by some trappers that the odor may be dissipatedby packing the garment in fresh hemlock boughs, letting it thusremain for a couple of days. This is certainly a valuable hintif true, and is well worth remembering. 

For skinning the skunk, see Beaver, Otter and Fox. 

[Page 199]THE WOLVERINE. 

This, one of the most ferocious as well as detestable of Americananimals, is principally found in British America and the upperportion of the United States. It has won a world wide reputationfor its fierceness and voracity, and on this account is popularlyknown as the Glutton. It is not confined to America, but is alsofound in Siberia and Northern Europe. 

[Illustration]

The general appearance of this animal, ugly in disposition as inappearance, is truthfully given in our illustration. It is notunlike a small bear in looks, and was formerly classed among thatgenus. 

The general color of the wolverine is dark brown. The muzzle, asfar back as the eye-brows, is black, and the immense paws partakeof the same hue. The claws of the animal are[Page 200]long and almost white, forming a singular contrast to the jetty furof the feet. So large are the feet of this animal, and so powerfulthe claws, that a mere look at them will tell the story of theirdeath dealing qualities, a single stroke from one of them oftenbeing sufficient for a mortal wound. Although the wolverine isnot as large as the bear, its foot prints in the snow are oftenmistaken for those of that creature, being nearly of the same size. 

The glutton feeds largely on the smaller quadrupeds, and is a mostdetermined foe to the beaver during the summer months; the ice-hardenedwalls of their houses serving as a perfect protection against hisattacks in the winter time. 

To the trapper of the north the wolverine is a most detested enemy, following the rounds of the traps and either detaching the baitsor tearing away the dead animals which have fallen a prey to them. The trapper's entire circuit will be thus followed in a singlenight, and where the veritable "glutton" does not care to devourits victim it will satisfy its ferocious instinct by scratchingit in pieces, leaving the mutilated remains to tell the story ofits nocturnal visit. 

The wolverine is a dangerous foe to many animals larger than itself, and by the professional hunter it is looked upon as an ugly anddangerous customer. 

There are several methods of trapping this horrid creature, andin many localities successful trapping of other animals will beimpossible without first ridding the neighborhood of the wolverines. Dead-falls of large size will be found to work successfully, baitingwith the body of some small animal, such as a rat or squirrel. A piece of cat, beaver or muskrat flesh is also excellent, andby slightly scenting with castoreum success will be made sure. Several of these traps may be set at intervals, and a trail madeby dragging a piece of smoked beaver meat between them. The guntrap, as described on page 20, will also do good service inexterminating this useless and troublesome animal. 

Steel traps of size No. 3 or 4 are commonly used to good purpose. They may be arranged in any of the various methods already described, the plan of the enclosure, page 143, being particularly desirable. Inall cases the trap should be covered with leaves, moss or the like, and the bait slightly scented with castoreum. Like all voraciousanimals, the perpetual greed of the wolverine completely overbalancesits caution, and thus renders its capture an easy task. 

[Page 201]The home of the animal is generally in a crevice or cave betweenrocks, and its young, two or three in number, are brought forthin May. 

In removing the skin, it may be ripped up the belly, or taken offwhole, as described for the fox. 

THE OPOSSUM. 

[Illustration]

The opossum is found more or less throughout nearly all the UnitedStates. In size it equals a large cat, the tail being about fifteeninches long, very flexible and covered with scales. The generalcolor of the fur is grayish-white, slightly tinged with yellow, [Page 202]and the legs are of a brownish hue, which color also surrounds theeyes to some extent. 

The fur is comparatively soft and wooly, and thickly sprinkled withlong hairs, white at the base and brown at the tips. 

The nature and habits of the animal are very interesting. Its nestis made in some sheltered hollow in an old fallen or live tree, or beneath overhanging roots or rocks, and composed of moss anddead leaves. The young are produced in several litters during theyear, and when born are transferred by the mother to a pouch situatedin the lower front portion of her body. Here they remain and arenourished by the parent until they are five weeks old, at whichtime they emerge and travel with their mother, and their littlering tails do them good service in holding fast to their guardian. It is an amusing sight to see a family of young 'possums thus linkedtogether, and so "attached to each other. "

The opossum is a voracious and destructive animal, prowling aboutduring the hours of darkness and prying into every nook and corner inhope of finding something that may satisfy the cravings of imperioushunger. Rats, mice, nuts, berries, birds, insects and eggs are alldevoured by this animal; and when not content with these he doesnot hesitate to insinuate himself into the poultry yard, and makea meal on the fowls and young chickens. His fondness for fruit andIndian corn often leads him to commit great havoc among plantationsand fruit trees, and his appetite for the fruit of the persimmon treeis proverbial. While feeding on these fruits he frequently hangsby his tail, as seen in our illustration, gathering the persimmonswith his fore paws and eating them while thus suspended. He is amost agile climber, and his tenacity and terminal resources inthis direction are admirably depicted in that well known Methodistsermon, as follows: "An' you may shake one foot loose, but 'tothersthar; an' you may shake _all_ his feet loose, but he laps his tailaround the lim' an' he clings forever. "

He is an adept at feigning death, "playing 'possum" so skilfullyas frequently to deceive an expert. 

"'Possums" are hunted in the Southern States much after the mannerof coons; and to the negroes a "'possum hunt" signifies most unboundedsport. "

Though cunning in many ways, the opossum is singularly simple inothers. There is hardly any animal more easily captured; for itwill walk into the clumsiest of traps, and permit itself to beensnared by a device at which an American rat would look with uttercontempt. 

[Page 203]The dead-fall, garrote, or stout snare may all be employed, beingbaited with any of the substances already described. The steeltrap 2-1/1 or 3 is most commonly used, being set in the haunts ofthe animal, and slightly scented with musk. 

See Fox and Beaver, for directions for skinning, stretching, etc. , etc. 

THE RABBIT. 

The rabbit or "cotton tail, " as he is familiarly termed, is toowell-known to need any description here. From Maine to Texas ourwoods abound with these fleet-footed little creatures, of whichthere are several American species. They are the swiftest of allAmerican quadrupeds, and have been known to clear over twenty feetin a single leap. They are all natural burrowers, although theyoften forego the trouble of excavating a home when one can be foundalready made, and which can be easily modified or adapted to theirpurposes. The common rabbit of New England often makes its home or"form, " beneath a pile of brush or logs, or in crevices in rocks. Here it brings forth its young, of which there are often threeor four litters a year. The creature becomes a parent at a veryearly age, and by the time that a rabbit is a year old it may haveattained the dignity of a grand parent. 

The food of the rabbit consists of grasses, bark, leaves, bulbs, young twigs, buds, berries and the like, and of cultivated vegetablesof all kinds, when opportunity favors. When surprised in the woodsit manifests its alarm by violently striking the ground with itsfeet, causing the peculiar sound so often noticed at their firstjump. The animal is fond of pursuing a beaten path in the woods, and is often snared at such places. Its enemies, beside man, arethe lynx, and other carnivorous animals, hawks, owls, and eventhe domestic cat. 

The rabbit is a favorite game with all amateur sportsmen, and thedevices used in its capture are multitudinous. It is by no meansa difficult animal to trap, and a glance through the second andfourth sections of our book, will reveal many ingenious snaresand other contrivances, commonly and successfully used. 

The Box trap, page 103, is perhaps the most universal example ofrabbit trap, but the Self-setting trap, page 110, and Double-ender, page 109, are also equally effective where the animal is desiredto be taken alive. If this is not an object, the snare is to berecommended as simple in construction and sure in its result. 

[Page 204]The above constitute the only devices commonly used for the captureof the rabbit, the steel trap being dispensed with. On page 109will be found additional remarks concerning the rabbit, and manyhints no baiting, etc. , are also given under the heads of the varioustraps above alluded to. 

The skin of the rabbit is very thin and tender, and should be carefullyremoved, either as described for the fox, or in the ordinary method, by incision up the belly. Full directions for curing and tanningthe skins will be found under its proper head in a later portionof this work. 

THE WOOD-CHUCK. 

This animal also called the marmot, is so well-known to most ofour readers, that a detailed description will not be necessary, suffice it to say that the general color is brownish grey above, changing to reddish brown on the under parts. The head, tail andfeet partaking of a darker color. The length of the animal is abouta foot and a-half, exclusive of the tail, which is four incheslong. 

The woodchuck is a clumsy looking animal, and anything but activein its movements. It is very unintelligent, and is always too readyto use its powerful teeth on the hand of any one who may attemptto handle it. It is naturally a timid animal, but when corneredor brought to bay, it fights most desperately. 

The woodchuck is an expert excavator, and where the animals existin large numbers great damage is done by their united burrowing. Theygenerally remain in their burrows during the day, only venturing outcasually to see what is going on, and keeping near their entrance. Towards evening they start out to feed, devouring certain grassesand weeds, and also pumpkins and green corn with avidity, everand anon sitting upright on their haunches, to see if the coastis clear. In case they are surprised in their meal, they hurryhome in a pell-mell sort of a way, giving as much the appearanceof rolling as running, but, nevertheless, getting over the groundwith fair speed for such an unwieldy animal. The skin is loose andvery tough, and possesses no commercial value, being principallyused for whiplashes. Their burrows are generally on the slope ofa hill, and often at the foot of a rock or tree. These tunnelsvary from ten to thirty feet in length, sloping downward from theopening, afterward taking an upward turn and terminating in a roomychamber, in which the animal sleeps in[Page 205]winter and where the young from three to eight in number are broughtforth. The woodchuck is found throughout nearly the whole of theUnited States, and is especially abundant in New England, whereit is a decided nuisance. It is found as far south as Tennessee, and westward to the Rocky Mountains. The flesh of the woodchuckis by many much esteemed as food, particularly in the Fall. Whenused for this purpose, the animal should be skinned and carefullycleaned immediately after death, taking especial care to remove themasses of fat which lie inside of the legs, as these, if allowedto remain, are sure to taint the flesh in cooking. 

The animals are easily caught by setting the traps at the entranceof their burrows, and carefully covering them with loose earth, no bait being required. They may also be captured by the aid ofa spring-pole, with noose attached, the pole being bent down andcaught under a notched stick, and the noose being arranged at theopening of the burrow, see page 43, the Woodchuck in passing inor out will become entangled in the noose, and in his efforts toescape the pole will be loosened from the peg, thus lifting theanimal in mid-air. Woodchucks are also sometimes drowned out oftheir holes, and the turtle is often put to good use for the purposeof smoking the animals from their subterranean dwellings. A ball ofwicking saturated with kerosene is attached by a wire to the tailof the reptile. When the ball is ignited the creature is introducedinto the entrance of the hole, and of course in fleeing from itsfiery pursuer it traverses the full length of the burrow, and asanother matter of course drives out its other occupants, whichare shot or captured as they emerge. 

The woodchunk's skin is generally taken off as described for themuskrat, and stretched accordingly. 

THE GOPHER. 

This remarkable little animal somewhat resembles the Mole in itsgeneral appearance and habits. It is also commonly known as theCanada Pouched Rat, and is principally found west of the Mississippiand northward. It is a burrowing animal, and like the Mole drivesits subterranean tunnels in all directions, throwing up littlehillocks at regular intervals of from five to twenty feet. Itsbody is thick set and clumsy and about ten inches long, and itsMole-like claws are especially adapted for digging. Its food consistsof roots and vegetables, and its[Page 206]long and projecting incisors are powerful agents in cutting theroots which cross its path in making its burrow. The most strikingcharacteristic of the animal, and that from which it takes itsname, consists in the large cheek pouches which hang from eachside of the mouth and extend back to to shoulders. They are used asreceptacles of food which the animal hurriedly gathers when aboveground, afterward returning to its burrow to enjoy its feast at itsleisure. It was formerly very commonly and erroneously believedthat the Gopher used its pouches in conveying the earth from itsburrow, and this is generally supposed at the present day, butit is now known that the animal uses these pockets only for theconveyance of its food. 

The color of the fur is reddish-brown on the upper parts, fadingto ashy-brown on the abdomen, and the feet are white. 

In making its tunnels, the dirt is brought to the surface, thusmaking the little mounds after the manner of the mole. After havingdug its tunnel for several feet the distance becomes so great asto render this process impossible, and the old hole is carefullystopped up and a new one made at the newly excavated end of thetunnel, the animal continuing on in its labors and dumping fromthe fresh orifice. These mounds of earth occur at intervals onthe surface of the ground, and although no hole can be discoveredbeneath them, they nevertheless serve to indicate the track ofthe burrow, which lies several inches beneath. 

The Gopher is a great pest to western cultivators, and by its rootfeeding and undermining propensities does extensive injury to cropsgenerally. They may be successfully trapped in the following manner:Strike a line between the two most recent earth mounds, and midwaybetween them remove a piece of the sod. By the aid of a trowelor a sharp stick the burrow may now be reached. Insert your handin the tunnel and enlarge the interior sufficiently to allow theintroduction of No. (0) steel trap. Set the trap flatly in thebottom of the burrow, and then laying a piece of shingle or a fewsticks across the excavation replace the sod. Several traps maybe thus set in the burrows at considerable distances apart, and anumber of the animals thus taken. The traps are sometimes insertedin the burrows from the hillocks, by first finding the hole andthen enlarging it by inserting the arm and digging with the handbeneath. The former method, however, is preferable. 

The skin of the Gopher may be pulled off the body either by cuttingup the hind less, as described in reference to the Fox, [Page 207]or by making the incision from the lower jaw down the neck, as decidedfor the muskrat, a simple board stretcher being used. 

THE MOLE. 

Of all the mammalia the Mole is entitled to take the first placein the list of burrowers. This extraordinary creature does notmerely dig tunnels in the ground and sit at the end of them, as isthe case with many animals, but it forms a complicated subterraneandwelling place with chambers, passages and other arrangements ofwonderful completeness. It has regular roads leading to its feedinggrounds; establishes a system of communication as elaborate asthat of a modern railway, or, to be more correct, as that of thesubterranean network of the sewers of a city. It is an animal ofvaried accomplishments. It can run tolerably fast, it can fightlike a bull-dog, it can capture prey under or above ground, it canswim fearlessly, and it can sink wells for the purpose of quenchingits thirst. Take the mole out of its proper sphere, and it is awkwardand clumsy as the sloth when placed on level ground, or the sealwhen brought ashore. Replace it in the familiar earth and it becomesa different being, full of life and energy, and actuated by a fieryactivity which seems quite inconsistent with its dull aspect andseemingly inert form. 

We all know that the mole burrows under the ground, raising atintervals the little hillocks or "mole hills" with which we areso familiar; but most of us little know the extent or variety ofits tunnels, or that the animal works on a regular system and doesnot burrow here and there at random. How it manages to form itsburrows in such admirably straight lines, is not an easy problem, because it is always done in black darkness, and we know of nothingwhich can act as a guide to the animal. As for ourselves and othereye-possessing creatures, the feat of walking in a straight linewith closed eyelids is almost an impossibility, and every swimmerknows the difficulty of keeping a straight course under water, even with the use of his eyes. 

The ordinary mole hills, so plentiful in our fields, present nothingparticularly worthy of notice. They are merely the shafts throughwhich the quadruped miner ejects the material which it has scoopedout, as it drives its many tunnels through the soil, and if theybe carefully opened after the rain has consolidated the heap ofloose material, nothing more will be discovered than a simple holeleading into the tunnel. But let us[Page 208]strike into one of the large tunnels, as any mole catcher willteach us, and follow it up to the real abode of the animal. Thehill under which this domicile is hidden, is of considerable size, but is not very conspicuous, being always placed under the shelter ofa tree, shrub, or a suitable bank, and would scarcely be discoveredbut by a practiced eye. The subterranean abode within the hillockis so remarkable that it involuntarily reminds the observer of thewell-known "maze, " which has puzzled the earliest years of youththroughout many generations. The central apartment, or "keep, "if we so term it, is a nearly spherical chamber, the roof of whichis almost on a level with the earth around the hill, and thereforesituated at a considerable depth from the apex of the heap. Aroundthis keep are driven two circular passages or galleries, one justlevel with the ceiling and the other at some height above. Fiveshort descending passages connect the galleries with each other, but the only entrance into the keep is from the upper gallery, out of which three passages lead into the ceiling of the keep. Itwill be seen therefore that when the mole enters the house fromone of its tunnels, it has first to get into the lower galleryto ascend thence into the upper gallery, and so descend into thecentral chamber. There is, however, another entrance into the keepfrom below. A passage dips downward from the centre of the chamber, and then, taking a curve upwards, opens into one of the larger burrowsor high roads, as they may be fitly termed. It is a noteworthyfact that the high roads, of which there are several radiating indifferent directions, never open into the gallery opposite oneof the entrances into the upper gallery. The mole therefore isobliged to go to the right or left as soon as it enters the domicilebefore it can find a passage to the upper gallery. By the continualpressure of the moles upon the walls of the passages and roof ofthe central chamber, they become quite smooth, hard, and polished, so that the earth will not fall in, even after the severest storm. 

The use of so complicated a series of cells and passages is extremelydoubtful, and our total ignorance of the subject affords anotherreason why the habits of this wonderful animal should be betterstudied. 

About the middle of June the moles begin to fall in love, and areas furious in their attachments as in all other phases of theirnature. At that time two male moles cannot meet without mutualjealousy, and they straightway begin to fight, scratching, tearing, and biting with such insane fury that they seem unconscious[Page 209]of anything except the heat of battle. Indeed the whole life ofthe mole is one of fury, and he eats like a starving tiger, tearingand rending his prey with claws and teeth, and crunching audiblythe body of the worm between the sharp points. Magnify the moleto the size of the lion and you will have a beast more terriblethan the world has yet seen. Though nearly blind, and thereforeincapable of following its prey by sight, it would be active beyondconception, springing this way and that way as it goes along, leapingwith lightness and quickness upon any animal which it meets, rendingit in pieces in a moment, thrusting its blood-thirsty snout intothe body of its victim, eating the still warm and bleeding flesh, and instantly searching for fresh prey. Such a creature would, without the least hesitation, devour a serpent twenty feet in length, and so terrible would be its voracity that it would eat twenty orthirty of such snakes in a day as easily as it devours the samenumber of worms. With one grasp of its teeth and one stroke ofits claws, it could tear an ox asunder; and if it should happento enter a fold of sheep or enclosure of cattle, it would killthem all for the mere lust of slaughter. Let, then, two of suchanimals meet in combat, and how terrific would be the battle! Fearis a feeling of which the mole seems to be utterly unconscious, and, when fighting with one of its own species, he gives his wholeenergies to the destruction of his opponent without seeming to heedthe injuries inflicted upon himself. From the foregoing sketchthe reader will be able to estimate the extraordinary energies ofthis animal, as well as the wonderful instincts with which it isendowed. 

The fur of the mole is noted for its clean, velvety aspect; andthat an animal should be able to pass unsoiled through earth ofall textures is a really remarkable phenomenon. It is partly tobe explained by the character of the hair, and partly by that ofthe skin. The hair of the mole is peculiar on account of its wantof "set. " The tops of the hairs do not point in any particulardirection, but may be pressed equally forward or backward or toeither side. The microscope reveals the cause of this peculiarity. The hair is extremely fine at its exit from the skin, and graduallyincreases in thickness until it reaches its full width when itagain diminishes. This alternation occurs several times in eachhair, and gives the peculiar velvet-like texture with which weare all so familiar. There is scarcely any coloring matter in theslender portion of the hair, and the beautiful changeable coppery[Page 210]hues of the fur is owing to this structure. Another reason for thecleanliness of the fur is the strong, though membranous muscle beneaththe skin. While the mole is engaged in travelling, particularly inloose earth, the soil for a time clings to the fur; but at tolerablyregular intervals the creature gives the skin a sharp and powerfulshake, which throws off at once the whole of the mould that hascollected upon the fur. Some amount of dust still remains, for, however clean the fur of a mole may seem to be, if the creaturebe placed for an hour in water, a considerable quantity of earthwill be dissolved away and fall to the bottom of the vessel. Theimprovement in the fur after being well washed with soft tepidwater and soap, is almost incredible. Many persons have been struckwith such admiration for the fur of the mole, that they have beendesirous of having a number of the skins collected and made into awaist-coat. This certainly can be done, but the garment thus madeis so very hot that it can only be worn in winter. Such garmentsare very expensive, and owing to the tender quality of the skin, possess but little lasting powers. There is also a wonderfullystrong smell about the mole; so strong, indeed, that dogs willsometimes point at moles instead of game, to the great disgustof their masters. This odor adheres obstinately to the skin, andeven in furs which have been dried for more than ten years, thispeculiar savor has been noticed. 

We have given much space to the mole, not particularly on accountof its particular usefulness to the trapper, but because of itsmany claims to our notice. If the creature were a rare and costlyinhabitant of some distant land, how deep would be the interestwhich it would incite. But because it is a creature of our country, and to be found in every field, there are but few who care to examinea creature so common, or who experience any feelings save thoseof disgust when they see a mole making its way over the groundin search of a soft spot in which to burrow. 

In many localities this interesting animal exists in such numbersas to become a positive nuisance, and the invention of a trap whichwould effectually curtail their depredations has been a problemto many a vexed and puzzled farmer. 

Mole traps of various kinds have found their way into our agriculturalpapers, but none has proved more effectual than the one we describeon page 119. An arrangement of the _figure four_, page 107, isalso sometimes employed with good success. In this case the baitstick crosses the upright stick close to the ground, and rests over[Page 211]the burrow of the mole, the earth being previously pressed down tothe surrounding level. The stone should be narrow and very heavy, andof course no bait is required. 

The pieces should be set carefully, and so adjusted that the liftingof the soil beneath the stick as the mole forces its way throughthe compressed earth will dislodge the bait stick and let downthe stone with its crushing weight. 

Another method consists in embedding a deep flower pot in one ofthe main tunnels of the animal, and carefully replacing the soilabove. The mole in traversing his burrow thus falls into the pitand is effectually captured. This is a very ingenious mode of takingthe animal, and rewarded its inventor with seven moles on the firstnight of trial. 

There are a number of other devices said to work excellently, butthe above we believe to be the most effectual of all. 

There are several species of American moles, the star-nosed varietybeing familiar to most of us. The most common moles are the shrewmoles, with pointed noses. The silver mole is a large species, ofa changeable silvery color, found on the Western prairies. TheOregon mole is nearly black, with purplish or brownish reflections. 

The most beautiful of all the moles is found at the Cape of GoodHope. It is of about the size of the ordinary American species, andits soft fur glistens with brilliant green and golden reflections. The fur of this species is probably the most wonderful and beautifulin the whole animal kingdom. 

SQUIRRELS. 

There are many species of squirrels found in the United States, but their fur is of little value, and of trifling importance inthe fur trade; the squirrel fur of our markets being that of asmall grey European variety. Squirrels, as a class, possess muchthe same peculiarities and habits. Their claws are particularlyadapted for life among the trees; their tails are long and bushy, covering over the backs of the animals when in a sitting posture. They are all lithe and quick of movement, and their senses of sightand hearing are especially keen. They are constantly on the alert, and are full of artifice when pursued. Their food consists chieflyof nuts, fruits, and grain, but when pushed by hunger, there isno telling what they will not eat. They generally provide for the[Page 212]winter months by laying up a store of the foregoing provisions, either in holes in trees or interstices in the bark, or in cavitiesunder ground. The shag-bark hickory offers an especial inducement tothese provident creatures in the numerous crevices and cracksthroughout the bark. It is not an uncommon thing to find wholehandfuls of nuts carefully packed away in one of these cracks, anda sharp stroke with an ax in the trunk of one of these trees willoften dislodge numbers of the nuts. The writer has many a time gone"nutting" in this way in the middle of winter with good success. Thenests of squirrels are generally built in trees, either in a crotchbetween the branches or in some deserted woodpecker's hole. Somespecies live in burrows in the ground, and those individuals whoare lucky enough to be in the neighborhood of a barn often make theirabode therein, taking their regular three meals a day from the granary. In many localities these animals thus become a perfect pest to thefarmers, and their destruction becomes a matter of urgent necessity. 

[Illustration]

Squirrels, although resembling each other much as regards[Page 213]their general habits, differ considerably in the size and colorof the different species. 

The principal varieties found on our continent are:--

The large grey squirrel, which is common in the Eastern and MiddleStates, and which is about two feet in length, including the tail. The common red squirrel, or chicaree, smaller than the foregoing, and found more or less all through the United States. The blacksquirrel, which is about the size of the grey, and found in thenorth-eastern part of the United States, near the great lakes. Inthe Southern States there is a variety known as the fox squirrel, about the size of the red squirrel, and quite variable in color. The Middle States furnishes a species called the cat squirrel, rather smaller than the preceding. Its tail is very broad, and itscolor varies from very light to very dark grey. 

The ground squirrel, or chipmuck, with its prettily striped sides, is common to most of our readers, its general color being red andthe stripes being black and white. 

Another burrowing species, known as the Oregon or downy squirrel, is found in the Territory from which it takes its name, and alsonorthward in British America. In size it resembles the chipmuck, and its color is light red above, pure white beneath, and silvergrey at the sides. 

The beautiful silky variety, known as the flying squirrel, withits grey chinchilla-like fur and loose skin, is found throughoutthe United States east of the Mississippi. 

Louisiana and Texas furnish the golden-bellied squirrel, which isabout twenty inches in length, with tail golden yellow beneath, and golden grey above. The sooty squirrel is also found in thislocality, being about the same size as the last mentioned, andblack above and brownish red beneath. 

There are other varieties in California known as the woolly, soft-haired, and weasel squirrels; and in the Western States wefind the large red-tailed squirrels, which are about the size ofthe large grey variety of the Eastern and Middle States. 

Squirrels, as a tribe, are much sought for as pets, and most ofthe species are easily tamed. 

Box traps of various kinds are used in taking them alive. The varietieson pages 103, 106 and 110 are especially adapted for this purpose, and should be set either in the trees or on the ground, and baitedwith an apple, a portion of an ear of corn, or of whatever theanimal is particularly fond. 

When the animals exist in such numbers as to become a destructive[Page 214]nuisance to the farm, the small-sized steel trap, No. 0, arrangedwith bait hung above it, will work to good advantage. Twitch-upsare also successful, and we might also recommend the traps on pages107, 116 and 128 as worthy of trial when the animal is not desiredto be captured alive. 

Squirrels may be skinned either by ripping up the belly, or in awhole piece, as described in regard to the fox. 

We pause before going further into the mysteries of trapping inconnection with the animals which we are about to consider, asthey are generally exempt from the wiles of the trapper's art, coming more properly in the field of the hunter or sportsman. Theidea of trapping a deer, for instance, seems barbarous indeed;but are not all the ways of deceiving and killing these splendidanimals equally so? Are not the various strategies and cunningdevices of the sportsman, by which these noble creatures are decoyedand murdered, equally open to the same objection? As far as barbaritygoes, there is to us but little choice between the two methods;and, generally speaking, we decry them both, and most especiallydo not wish to be understood as encouraging the trapping of theseanimals, except where all other means have failed, and in caseswhere their capture becomes in a measure a matter of necessity. This is often the case in the experience of professional trappers. The life of the trapper during the trapping season is spent almostentirely in the wilderness, often many miles from any human habitation;and at times he is solely dependent upon his gun or trap for hisnecessary food. 

Sometimes in a dry season, when the leaves and twigs crackle underfoot, the rifle is as good as useless, for it becomes impossible toapproach a deer within shooting range. And there are other timeswhen ammunition is exhausted, and the trapper is thus forced to relyonly on his traps for his supply of food. In such circumstances, the necessities of the trapper are paramount, and the trapping ofdeer, in such straits, as the most desirable food is rather tobe recommended than condemned. The same remarks also in a measureapply to the moose and prong-horn antelope, as well as to severalother animals hereinafter mentioned, as they are generally consideredmore in the light of the hunter's than the trapper's game. 

[Page 215]THE DEER. 

There are upwards of eight varieties of this animal which inhabitNorth America. The common red or Virginian deer is found throughoutthe United States. The stag or Wapiti deer is now chiefly confinedto the country west of the Mississippi and northward to BritishAmerica. The moose we shall speak of hereafter. The Rocky Mountainmule deer, and the long-tailed deer of the same locality, are twomore species, and there are also the black-tailed deer and thereindeer, the latter of which is a native of British America. Thescope of our volume will not of course admit of detailed directionsfor trapping each variety, but, as the habits of all the species arein a measure similar, our remarks will apply to them in general, and particularly to the red or Virginian deer, which is the mostimportant to American trappers. 

The trap for taking deer should be large, strong, and covered withspikes. The Newhouse (No. 4) is particularly adapted, and is especiallyarranged for this purpose. 

When the path of the deer is discovered on the border of a streamor lake, the trap should be set beneath the surface of the water, near the tracks of the animal, and covered by a handful of driedgrass thrown upon it. When thus set, it may either be left to runits chances, or success, further insured by the following precaution:In winter the principal food of the deer consists of the twigs, buds, and bark of various forest trees, and particularly thoseof the basswood and maple. In the season when the traps are setas above described, a most tempting bait is furnished by a largebranch of either of those trees, freshly cut, and laid near thetrap. The deer in feeding are thus almost sure to be captured. There are certain glands which are located on the inner side of thehind legs of the deer, and which emit a very strong and peculiarodor. The scent of these glands seems to attract the animal, andfor this reason are cut out and used by trappers as a scent-bait. In the case already described, it is well to rub the glands onthe twigs of the trees, thus serving as an additional attractionto the bait. There is still another method of trapping deer, whichis commonly employed in the winter time. The trap is sunk in thesnow at the foot of a tree, and the bait, consisting of an earof corn or a few beards of other grain, is fastened to the tree, above the trap, three or more feet from the ground. The animal, inreaching for the bait, places its foot in the trap and is secured. 

[Page 216]When first caught, the deer becomes very wild and violent; so muchso that if the trap were chained or retarded by a heavy clog, thechain, or even the trap itself, would most likely be broken. Theweight of a trap of this size is generally a sufficient impediment, no clog, or at best a very light one, being required. The firstfrantic plunge being over, the entrapped creature immediately yieldsand lies down upon the ground, and is always to be found withina few rods of where the trap was first sprung upon him. Duringthe winter the traps may also be set in the snow, using the samebait already described. It is a common method to fell a small treefor the purpose, setting the traps beneath the snow, around thetop branches. The deer, in browsing in the tender twigs or buds, are almost certain to be captured. Dead-falls of different kindsare sometimes used in trapping the deer, with good success; usingthe scent bait already described, together with the other bait. The food of the deer during the summer consists of nuts, fruits, acorns, grass, berries, and water plants, and when in convenientneighborhood of cultivated lands, they do not hesitate to makea meal from the farmer's turnips, cabbages, and grain. 

As we have said, the winter food consists chiefly of the twigs oftrees. When the snow is deep the deer form what are called "yards, "about such trees as they particularly select for their browsing. These yards are made simply by tramping down the snow, and largenumbers of the deer are often thus found together. As the supplyof food is consumed, the yard is enlarged, so as to enclose othertrees for browsing, and where deep snows abound throughout thewinter, these enclosures often become quite extensive in area. Panthers, wolves, and wolverines take especial advantage of these, and easily secure their victims. By wolves especially entire herdsof deer are thus destroyed, and whole yards depopulated in a singlenight. Panthers secrete themselves in the trees above the boughsoverhanging the "yards, " and, with stealthy movements, approach andpounce upon their unsuspecting prey. The blood-thirsty wolverinesecretes himself in the nooks and by-ways to spring upon its tawnyvictim unawares. These, together with man, form the principal foesof the deer, and we can truthfully assert that the _hunter_ ismuch more its enemy than the _trapper_. 

As we do not wish to encourage the wanton trapping of this noblecreature, it would perhaps be well for us to devote also few wordsin describing the various modes of hunting the animal, [Page 217]adopted by the "professional sportsmen" throughout the land. Themost common method is that called "still hunting, " most generallypursued in winter. The hunter is shod with deer-skin or other softsandals, and starts out with his rifle and ammunition. Finding thefresh track of the deer, he cautiously and noiselessly follows upthe trail, keeping a sharp lookout ahead. A practised deer-hunterbecomes very skillful and accurate, and the animal is nearly alwaystracked to discovery, when he is shot. The deer's sense of smell isextremely acute, and, when in shooting range, it is very necessaryto approach them in the face of the wind, the direction of whichmay be easily determined by holding the finger in the mouth for amoment, afterward pointing it upward toward the sky. The cool sideof the finger will indicate the direction from which the wind blows, and toward that direction the deer should always be approached, oras far toward that direction as possible. It will sometimes happenthat the hunter will surprise the buck, doe, and fawn together. Inorder to secure the three, shoot the doe first. The buck and fawnwill remain near the spot. The buck should next be shot, and thenthe fawn, the charge being aimed at the breast. Never approach awounded deer without reloading the gun, as he is often more frightenedthan hurt, and is likely to start and run away, unless preventedby another shot. During the snow season, deer are always watchfulof their back track. They are generally at rest during the day, starting out late in the afternoon on their usual ramblings, whichthey continue through the night. During the dark hours they loveto resort to the water side in quest of aquatic plants, and arehere often taken by hunters, many of which consider "night hunting"the favorite and most exciting sport. It is pursued in the followingmanner: The hunter requires a boat or canoe, page 261, a good rifle, and a lamp. The lamp, with a screen or reflector behind it, isplaced at the bow of the boat. One hunter takes the oar, and, withnoiseless paddle, propels or sculls the boat from the stem. Thearmed hunter crouches behind the light, with the muzzle of hisrifle projecting beyond the screen sufficiently to easily show theforward sight on the tip of the barrel. A dark lantern is sometimesused as a light. The eyes of the deer shine very perceptibly atnight, and his presence on the banks is thus easily detected. Ifhe is noiselessly approached, he will remain transfixed by theeffect of the light from the boat, and he may be neared even to avery close range, when he is easily despatched. Hundreds of deer[Page 218]are thus taken during the summer and autumn. Deer are also chasedby dogs until they are forced to take refuge in the nearest riversor lakes, when the hunter in his canoe overtakes and shoots them. Another method is frequently employed in the hunting of the deer. These animals are very fond of salt, and with it they are oftendecoyed to a spot where the hunter lies in wait for them. Theseplaces are called "deer licks, " or salting places, and can be madeas follows: Select a locality where deer are known to frequent, andplace a handful of salt either on a smooth spot of ground or inthe hollow of a log. A section of a log is sometimes slightly dugout at one end and the other inserted in the earth, the salt beingplaced in the hollow. The hunter secretes himself in a neighboringtree, sometimes erecting a bench or scaffolding for comfort, and, provided with gun and ammunition, he awaits the coming of the deer. Hunters say that a deer seldom looks higher than his head, andthat a sportsman on one of these scaffoldings, even though he isclumsy in his movements, is seldom noticed by the animal. 

The salt lick is also utilized for night hunting. A head-lanternis generally required. This can be made in the following manner:Construct a cylinder of birch bark or paste-board or any like substance, ten inches in height, and of sufficient size to fit closely onthe head. A circular partition should next be firmly inserted atabout the middle of the cylinder, and the centre of the partitionshould be provided with a socket for the reception of a candle. On this end of the cylinder a piece should now be cut to admitof the passage of light from the candle on that side. Having thisfire-hat at hand wait patiently for the game. When a significantnoise is heard light the candle and place the cylinder on the head, with the open cut in front, thus directing the light toward theground. As the deer approaches, his fiery eyes will easily be seen, and the light from the candle will shine sufficiently on the rifleto clearly reveal the sights and admit of a sure aim. There isstill another method of night hunting by the salt lick. The rifleis aimed directly at the salted spot, and thus firmly fixed--thispreparation being made in the daytime. When night approaches, thehunter finds a piece of phosphorescent wood or "fox fire, " and placesit on the ground, at a point which he has previously determinedto be on a direct line of the aim of his gun. The "fox fire" isplainly seen from the tree, and as soon as it is darkened he knowsthat it is obscured by the deer, and he pulls the trigger and killshis game. 

Deer are hunted at all seasons of the year, _but ought not_ to[Page 219]be hunted during the summer. The sport legitimately begins in September, when the buck begins to harden his horns, and when his flesh isin its best condition for food. In October the deer is more shy, and during this month and after, the sport is at its height. Thedeer should be skinned from an incision down the belly, and thehide spread on a hoop stretcher, page 275. 

THE MOOSE. 

We have already given so much space to the hunting of the deerthat we shall be obliged to cut short our remarks on the Moose, particularly as it is a representative of the same family. Thisanimal is the largest of the Deer tribe, being seven or eight feetin height and often weighing over fifteen hundred pounds. It issupplied with immense flat spreading horns, sometimes expanding tothe distance of six feet between the tips. It is found in Maine, Oregon and Washington Territories, and in the neighborhood of thegreat lakes, and inhabits the regions as far[Page 220]north as the Arctic Sea. Its color is yellowish brown. The fur isthicker in winter than summer, and on the neck of the animal thehair is very coarse and hangs in an immense tuft of over a footin length. The flesh is most excellent food and is much esteemedby trappers. The habits of the moose are in most respects identicalwith the deer, already described, and like them they form "yards"during the winter season. 

[Illustration]

In the North the moose is hunted on snow-shoes by the natives, and in summer they are shot like the deer. They are often verydangerous and terrible creatures to hunt, and the utmost care andskill, as described in regard to the deer, is required on the partof the hunter in order to avoid detection through the exquisitesense of smell which the animal possesses. The moose is easilytrapped. The Newhouse, No. 6, is especially adapted for the purpose, and it should be chained to a clog of stone or wood of over fiftypounds in weight. Set the trap in the "yard, " or beneath the snowwhere the moose frequents, or in the summer, or fall seasons, asdescribed for the deer, using the same methods in regard to baiting, etc. 

Skin after the manner of cattle, and stretch the hide on ahoop-spreader. Page 275. 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. 

These creatures are natives of the entire range of the Rocky Mountains, and are especially prized on account of the superior quality oftheir flesh as food. They are much larger and more powerful thanthe domestic sheep, and the ram is provided with enormous curvedhorns. The wool of the animal is intermixed with coarse grey hairs, and the general appearance of the fur is russet grey, with theexception of the rump and under parts, which are of a dirty whitecolor. The animal is generally very wary and retiring, and inhabitsthe most secluded and inaccessible mountain regions and rocky cliffs. 

They are easily captured by the steel trap (No. 5) set in theirhaunts. The dead-fall is also used in some instances. Remove theskin as described for the deer. 

THE BUFFALO. 

The Buffaloes or Bison of the Western plains is too well knownto need description. They travel in migrating herds of thousands, and are found from Texas to British America. Their food[Page 221]consists chiefly of grass, of which the "Buffalo grass" is theirgreat delight. They graze and travel through the day and rest bynight. They are more the game of the hunter than the trapper, althoughthe largest side Newhouse would effectually secure one of the animals. The Buffalo is generally hunted on horseback, the usual methodbeing that of stealing into the drove while grazing, always movingagainst the wind in order to avoid being scented. The flesh ispalatable and by many much relished. The Buffalo skins of commerceare furnished by the cows. The bull skins are almost devoid of furon the hinder parts, the hair being confined to the huge heavymass on the hump and mane. Skin the animal as described for theMoose. 

THE PRONG HORN ANTELOPE. 

This sole American representative of the Antelope tribe we believeis seldom trapped; but as it is a well-known animal on the Westernplains, a short mention of it is required here. In general shapethis creature bears considerable resemblance to the deer, the form ofthe horn being its chief peculiarity, each one of which is providedwith a single prong, from which the animal takes its name, of ProngHorn. The color of the body is brownish-yellow, with the exceptionof the rump and belly which are almost white. The Antelopes generallytravel in herds, and are much hunted by the Indians who surroundthem and destroy them with heavy clubs. Like the deer, their senseof smell is especially keen and the same caution is required inhunting them. In size they are about the same as the VirginianDeer. They are wonderfully graceful in all their movements, andare even more fleet of foot than the deer. These Antelopes inhabitthe Western Prairies and wooded borders from New Mexico northward, and their flesh is much esteemed as an article of diet. They maybe caught in their feeding places, as recommended for the deer, using the same sized trap. 

The dead fall is also efficacious in their capture, and they arealso sometimes taken in large pit-falls covered over with lightsticks and leaves, to resemble the natural surroundings. On thisfalse covering, the bait, consisting of green corn or other vegetables, is strewn and a high wall of logs or stones is erected around it, in order that the animal will be obliged to _jump_ slightly inorder to reach the bait. 

Remove the hide as recommended for the deer. 

[Page 222]SHOOTING AND POISONING. 

Until the introduction of the steel-trap, shooting was a commonmethod of taking fur bearing animals, and even to the present dayit is quite prevalent in some localities. Anyone who has had anyexperience with the fur trade must have learned that furs whichare "shot, " are much affected in value. Some furriers will notpurchase such skins at any price; and they never meet with anybut a very low offer. "Trapped furs" and "shot furs" are terms ofconsiderable significance in the fur trade, and anyone who wishesto realize from a profitable sale of his furs, should use his gunas little as possible. A shot grazing through the fur of an animalcuts the hairs as if with a knife, and a single such furrow isoften enough to spoil a skin. It is these oblique grazing shotswhich particularly damage the fur, and an animal killed with a_shot gun_ is seldom worth skinning for the value of its pelt. Iffirearms are used, the rifle is preferable. If the animal chancesto be hit broadside or by a direct penetrating bullet, the twosmall holes thus made may not particularly effect the value of itsskin, although even then the chances are rather slight. 

Trapped furs are of the greatest value. 

The use of poison is objectionable as a means of capture in animalsespecially desired for their fur. Strychnine is the substance generallyemployed, and unless its victim is skinned _immediately_ afterdeath the pelt becomes considerably injured by the absorption ofthe poison. It has the effect of loosening the fur and the hairsheds easily. 

The poison is principally used in the capture of Wolves and animalsconsidered in the light of vermin. For a wolf or fox, the poisonis mixed with lard or tallow and spread on pieces of meat, or asmall amount of the powder is inclosed in an incision in the bait. The amount sufficient for a single dose may be easily held on thepoint of a knife blade, and death ensues in a a very few momentsafter the bait is taken. For a Bear the dose should be a halfthimbleful, and it should be deposited in the centre of a pieceof honey comb, the cells being emptied of their honey for thatpurpose. 

Other animals may be taken by proportionate quantities of the poison, but for general purposes we discourage its use. 

[Page 223][Illustration: THE CAMPAIGN. ]

[Page 225]BOOK VII. 

CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS. 

[Illustration: I]t has been the author's object in the preparationof this book not simply to content the reader with a mere superficialknowledge of so-called "Amateur trapping, " but to carry him furtherinto the art professionally considered, and for this reason wepresent in the following chapter a full catalogue of the trapper'soutfit, containing detailed descriptions of all the necessaries fora most thorough campaign, including boats and canoes, log cabins, shanties and tents, snow shoes and camp furniture of all kinds, together with numerous and valuable hints on trapper's food. 

PLAN OF CAMPAIGN. 

The first thing to be considered in reference to a campaign isthe selection of a trapping ground, and it is always desirableto choose a locality where travel by water can be resorted to asmuch as possible. Otter, mink, beaver and muskrat are among themost desirable game for the trapper, and as these are all amphibiousanimals, a watered district is therefore the best on all accounts. Lakes, ponds, and streams, bordered by wild woods, form the bestpossible grounds for general trapping, and the mountain lakes of theAdirondacks and Alleghenies, and all similar regions are especiallydesirable on this account. Almost any wild country, intersectedwith streams, lakes, and rivers, is apt to abound with game, andsome trappers confine their labors to the borders of a single lake, and adjoining forest. This plan is especially to be recommended tothe amateur, as much of the travelling to and fro can be done by boat, [Page 226]the labor being thus much lightened. Having decided upon the seatof operations, the young trappers should immediately set to workat building their shanties and boats. The home shanty is of thegreatest importance, and should be constructed first. Select someflat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, orother rubbish and proceed to work as described on page 242. A goodaxe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in theconstruction of such a shanty. Should the trapping lines be veryextensive, additional _bark_ shanties, page 245, will require tobe made at intervals along the line, for sleeping stations andshelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attendsto the building of his shanties and boats before the trapping seasoncommences, and thus has everything in readiness for his campaign. If in a birch bark country the Indian canoe, page 260, is the mostdesirable craft, on account of its lightness and portability. Thedug-out, or bateau, described on page 259, will also do good service. 

The trapping season begins in October, and everything should bein readiness at this time, so that the trappers may devote alltheir time strictly to business. 

The route of the professional trapper often extends over fiftymiles, and the number and weight of traps and provisions whichthese rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggageis most astounding. Fifty or sixty pounds apiece is considered a_fair_ burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for acampaign who cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparativeease. The number of the trapping party generally consists of fromtwo to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season, the party start out, laden with their burden of traps and provisions, and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions beingmainly kept in the "home shanty. " Several trips may be necessary tocomplete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is readilyaccessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation ismuch easier. 

The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping groundsare far in the wilderness, miles away from civilization. If theline extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such ahut may be dispensed with. It is used principally as a storehousefor furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, andalso serves as a point of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers, one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty"while his companions are on their tramps in search of game. Ifdesired, a boy may be taken[Page 227]along for this especial purpose. In every case, some such guardianis very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding inwolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breakinginto unguarded shanties, and often make sad havoc with its stores. Steel traps are almost exclusively used by the professional trapper, and the supply for a single campaign will often exceed one hundredand fifty. Many of the traps described in the early part of thiswork are also used, and for the amateur who has not the ready cashto layout in steel traps, are decidedly to be recommended and willbe found very efficient. From thirty to fifty traps would be a fairnumber for an ordinary amateur trapping season, and the probablecost of such a lot would be from $15 to $25. The sizes of the trapswill depend upon the game sought, No. 2-1/2 being a good average. With this supply, relying somewhat on dead-falls, twitch-ups, andthe various other devices described in our early pages, we canguarantee lively sport, of course, presuming that good judgment hasbeen used in the selection of a trapping ground. In later articles, under the proper headings, we give full details concerning foodand cooking utensils, shelter and bedding, as well as many otherrequisites for the trapper's comfort. To complete the list he shouldprovide himself with a good sharp axe, and hatchet, and if thelog canoe is in anticipation he will also require the other toolsmentioned on page 259 an oilstone being carried in order to keep thevarious tools in good repair; an auger, saw, and some large nails arealso to be desired, and a small parcel containing needles, thread, pins, scissors, etc. , will be found indispensable. "Cleanliness isnext to Godliness, " and there are no more luxurious necessitiesin camp life than a piece of soap and a clean towel. For light itis advisable to carry a supply of candles, or a lantern with a canof oil. The latter is, of course, more bulky, and for a campaignwholly on foot is hardly to be recommended on this account. 

Each trapper should be provided with a stout jack-knife, pocket-compass, and a supply of matches, a number of these being always carried onthe person to provide for the emergencies to which the hunter isalways subject. 

One of the party should carry a double-barrelled shot-gun and anothera rifle, or both may be combined in a single weapon. A revolveris also a desirable acquisition. Purified neats-foot oil shouldbe used on the fire-arms, and in lieu of this, some trappers usethe melted fat of the grouse for the same purpose. A good supplyof fishing tackle is almost indispensable, and[Page 228]with these valuable equipments the young trapper may defy the wildernesswith all its hazards. With his traps, gun and rod, together with hisstore of provisions, he may look forward to a larder well stockedand may calculate on an appetite which will do it justice. 

The list of portable provisions and cooking utensils best adaptedfor a campaign are given under their proper title, and will befound to cover all the wants of the most fastidious. The stoveis the most cumbersome article, but trappers generally dispensewith its use altogether, looking at it rather in the light of aluxury as well as a nuisance. The open camp fire will answer everypurpose, both for cooking and for comfort in cold weather. 

For clothing it is desirable to carry at least two suits, in orderto have a "change. " They should be of woolen, and from the _hunter's_point of view, should be of a sombre shade, so as to be as inconspicuousas possible. The use of high-top boots is to be deprecated, as theyare tiresome and unwieldy. Short boots, with thick, iron-peggedsoles, are generally preferred by trappers, and in order to renderthem soft, pliable, and waterproof they may be soaked or smearedwith a hot mixture, composed of one part rosin, two parts beeswax, and three parts tallow. Simple tallow, or even the fat of the deer, is sometimes used for the same purpose. 

Calculating on a successful campaign, a supply of board-stretchers, page 273, will be needed for the curing of the skins, and if ouradventurous enthusiasts should extend their experience along intothe winter, the toboggan and snow-shoes will come into good usefor convenient winter travel. 

The trapping season properly commences in October and ends in April. The pelts of fur bearing animals are in their best condition duringthis time, and in the winter are in their prime. The various modesof setting and baiting traps for all our leading animals are clearlyset forth in another part of this volume. And in the accompanyingengravings will be found life like representations of each species. 

In a trapping campaign it is an excellent plan to select a centralpoint for the home shanty, extending the trapping lines in severaldirections therefrom, following the borders of the lakes or streamsfor the otter, beaver, mink and muskrat; and setting a few linesinland for the capture of martens, racoons, foxes, etc. 

For an amateur campaign this a most excellent and convenient[Page 229]arrangement, the lines may extend all the way from one to five mileseach, and connect at their edges, the whole ground plan resembling theform of a wheel, the shanty corresponding to the hub, and the trappinglines the spokes, the tire representing the circuit connecting thevarious lines. Where the latter extend over many miles it is wellto construct bark shanties at the limits. Let each trapper takea certain "spoke, " and follow it to its terminus, returning on theadjacent line. On his arrival at the shanty he should immediatelyset to work skinning the animals taken, and stretching their furs. Full directions for skinning the various game are given under theirrespective titles, and the curing of skins is treated in detailin another chapter of this work. We also present a table of thecomparative values of the various American furs at the presentdate of publication. Of course these values are constantly varying, but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative valuesof common and scarce furs. Great care should always be used inremoving the skins from the various animals, as the final valueof the fur much depends upon this. They should not be removed fromthe stretchers until perfectly dry, and should then be laid in acool, airy place. When near a village or settlement it is advisableto send "into town" every few days with a batch of furs for safekeeping, and particularly so when the skins are valuable, and incases where the home shanty is left unguarded. The value of primeotter or mink pelt is a matter of no small importance, and a goodtrapping ground furnishes a rare field for light fingered prowlerswho are well posted on the market price of raw furs, and who areconstantly on the lookout for such prizes, either in the shapeof the prepared skin, or on the back of the live animal. These"trap robbers, " or poachers, are the pests of trappers, and manyhave learned from dear experience the advisability of placing theirchoice furs beyond the reach of the marauders. 

The hut in which they are stored is nearly always kept guarded, and, where this is impracticable, the skins are hid in hollow trees, or carried to some near settlement, as we have already mentioned. 

If the campaign proves successful and promises well for anotherseason, it is customary to hide the traps beneath rocks, thus savingthe labor of a second transportation. In order to keep the trapsfrom rusting, it is well to cover them with oat or buckwheat chaff. The rock should be first rolled from its resting place, and a bedof the chaff made beneath it, in which the traps should be covered, the rock being afterwards replaced. In a few such[Page 230]places all the traps may be effectually stored away, and they willbe found in prime order and ready for business on the followingseason. 

In the months of September and October trappers are much annoyed bygnats and mosquitoes, and, as a preventive against the attacks ofthese pests, we give on page 255 some valuable receipts, which havestood the test of time, and are still the most effective remedies. The "smudge, " consisting of a smouldering pile of birch bark isalso used where the insects infest the tents or shanties by night. The bark should be dry, and should not be allowed to blaze. Thesmudge is generally placed at the entrance of the tent, and thetrapper may then take his choice between smoke or mosquitoes, bothcannot exist together, and a tent infested with the blood-thirstypests may be effectually cleared in a few minutes by the introductionof smoking brand for a few seconds. If the tent is now closelybuttoned and the smudge kept burning directly outside, there willbe no further trouble with the mosquitoes, and the odor of thesmoke is, after all, but a slight annoyance and to some is evenenjoyable after being once accustomed to it. When the home shantyis infested, it may be cleared in the same way, and by the aid oftwo or more smudges on the windward side may be kept free fromthe insects. 

FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS. 

The professional trapper on a campaign depends much upon his trapsfor his food, and often entirely contents himself with the subsistencethus gained. We _encourage_ and _believe_ in "roughing it" to acertain extent, but not to that limit to which it is often carriedby many professional "followers of the trap" throughout our country. The course of diet to which these individuals subject themselves, would often do better credit to a half civilized barbarian thanto an enlightened white man, and when it comes to starting on acampaign with no provision for food excepting a few traps, a gun, anda box of matches, and relying on a chance chip for a frying-pan, hewould rather be "counted out. " In ordinary cases we see no necessityfor such deprivation, and, on the other hand, we decry the idea oftransporting a whole kitchen and larder into the woods. There isa happy medium between the two extremes, whereby a light amountof luggage in the shape of cooking utensils and closely packedportable food, may render the wild life of the trapper very cozyand comfortable, and his meals a source of enjoyment, instead of a[Page 231]fulfilment of physical duty. What with the stock of traps, necessarytools, blankets, etc. , the trapper's burden is bound to be prettyheavy, and it becomes necessary to select such food for transportationas shall combine the greatest amount of nutriment and the least possibleweight, and to confine the utensils to those absolutely necessaryfor decent cooking. 

The trapper's culinary outfit may then be reduced to the followingitems, and in them he will find a sufficiency for very passableliving. 

One of the most nutritious and desirable articles of food consistsof fine sifted Indian meal; and it is the only substantial articleof diet which many trappers will deign to carry at all. 

By some it is mixed with twice its quantity of wheat flour, andis thus used in the preparation of quite a variety of palatabledishes. One or two pounds of salt pork will also be found a valuableaddition; boxes of pepper and salt and soda should also be carried. With these simple provisions alone, relying on his gun, traps andfishing tackle for animal food, the young trapper may rely on threeenjoyable meals a day, if he is anything of a cook. Pork frittersare not to be despised, even at a hotel table; and with the abovethey can be made to suit the palate of the most fastidious. 

Indian meal is a valuable accessory with cooks generally, and tothe trapper it often becomes his great "staff of life. " If ouryoung enthusiast desires to try his hand at roughing it to thefullest extent, compatible with common sense and the strength of anordinary physical constitution, he may endeavor to content himselfwith the above portable rations; but with anything less it becomestoo much like starvation to arouse our enthusiasm. For cookingutensils, a small frying-pan and a deep tin basin are indispensable;and a drinking cup is also to be desired. The kind known as thetelescope cup, constructed in three parts, which close within eachother, when not in use, possesses great advantages on account ofits portability. With these one can get along pretty decently. 

[Illustration]

The pork fritters already mentioned form a favorite dish with trappersgenerally, and can be made in the following[Page 232]way; have at hand a thick batter of the Indian meal and flour;cut a few slices of the pork, and fry them in the frying-pan untilthe fat is tried out; cut a few more slices of the pork; dip themin the batter and drop them in the bubbling fat, seasoning withsalt and pepper; cook until light brown and eat while hot. Thequestion now arises, "What shall we eat them with?" If you are"roughing it, " such luxuries as plates and knifes and forks aresurely out of the question; and you must content yourself witha pair of chop sticks "a la Chinee, " or make your jackknife dodouble purpose, using a flat chip or stone as a plate. A smalltin plate may be added to the list of utensils if desired, butwe are now confining ourselves to the "lowest limit" of absolutenecessities. That wholesome dish known as "boiled mush, " may comeunder the above bill of fare; and fried mush is an old stand-byto the rough and ready trapper. In the first case the Indian mealis slowly boiled for one hour, and then seasoned as eaten. It isthen allowed to cool, and is cut in slices and fried in fat. Indianmeal cakes are easily made by dropping a quantity of the hot mushin the frying-pan, having previously stirred in a small quantityof soda, and turning it as soon as the lower side is browned. AJohnny cake thus made is always appetizing, and with the additionof a little sugar, it becomes a positive luxury. Hoe cakes, somuch relished by many, can be made by mixing up a quantity intoa thick mass, adding a little soda. Bake in the fire on a chip orflat stone. The trapper's ground is generally in the neighborhoodof lakes or streams, and fresh fish are always to be had. Theymay be cooked in a manner which would tempt a city epicure; andwhen it comes to the cooking of a fresh brook trout, neither aProf. Blot nor a Delmonico can compete with the trapper's recipe. The trout is first emptied and cleaned through a hole at the neck, if the fish is large enough to admit of it; if not, it should bedone by a slit up the belly. The interior should be carefully washedand seasoned with salt and pepper; and in the case of a large fish, it should be stuffed with Indian meal. Build a good fire and allowthe wood to burn down to embers; lay the fish in the hot ashesand cover it with the burning coals and embers; leave it thus forabout half an hour, more or less, in proportion to the size of thefish (this may be easily determined by experiment); when done, remove it carefully from the ashes, and peel off the skin. Theclean pink flesh and delicious savor which now manifest themselveswill create an appetite where none before existed. All the delicate[Page 233]flavor and sweet juices of the fish are thus retained, and the troutas food is then known in its perfection. 

By the ordinary method of cooking, the trout loses much of itsoriginal flavor by the evaporation of its juices; and althougha delicious morsel in any event, it is never fully appreciatedexcepting after being roasted in the ashes, as above described. 

The other method consists in rolling the fish in the Indian mealand frying it in the frying-pan with a piece of the salt pork. Seasoning as desired. 

Partridges, ducks, quail, and other wild fowl are most deliciouswhen cooked in the ashes as described for the trout. The bird shouldbe drawn in the ordinary manner, and the inside washed perfectlyclean. It should then be embedded in the hot coals and ashes, thefeathers having been previously saturated with water. When done, the skin and feathers will easily peel off, and the flesh willbe found to be wonderfully sweet, tender, and juicy. A stuffingof pounded crackers and minced meat of any kind, with plenty ofseasoning, greatly improves the result, or the Indian meal may beused if desired. A fowl thus roasted is a rare delicacy. A partridge, squirrel, pigeon, woodcock, or any other game can be broiled aswell in the woods as at home, using a couple of green-branchedtwigs for a spider or "toaster, " and turning occasionally. Forthis purpose the bird should be plucked of its feathers, cleanlydrawn and washed, and spread out by cutting down the back. Venison, moose, or bear meat, can be deliciously roasted in joints of severalpounds before a good fire, using a green birch branch as a spit, and resting it on two logs, situated on opposite sides of the fire. The meat can thus be occasionally turned and propped in place bya small stick, sprinkling occasionally with salt and pepper. Theabove manner of making the fire is that adopted by most woodsmen. Two large green logs, of several feet in length, being first laiddown at about three feet distant, between these the fire is built, and when a kettle is used a heavy pole is so arranged as to projectand hold it over the fire. A cutlet of venison fried in the panis delicious, and a "Johnny cake" cooked in the fat of this meatis a decided dainty. 

With the above hints for a "rough and ready" campaign, we thinkthe young trapper ought to be able to get along quite comfortably. 

We will now pass on to the consideration of what the average[Page 234]professional trapper would call "luxuries. " The stock of thesedepends much upon the location of the trapping ground. If accessibleby wagon or boat, or both, they may be carried in unlimited quantities, but when they are to be borne on the back of the trapper througha pathless wilderness of miles, the supply will, of course, haveto be cut short. When two or three start out together it becomesmuch easier, one carrying the traps and tools; another the guns, cooking utensils, etc. ; the third confining his luggage to the food. One of the most necessary requisites for a journey on foot consistsin a knapsack or large square basket, which can be easily strappedto the back of the shoulders, thus leaving the hands free. Matchesare absolutely indispensable, and a good supply should be carried. They should always be enclosed in a large-mouthed bottle with aclose fitting cork, to prevent their being damaged by moisture. Forfurther safety in this regard the matches may be rendered perfectlywater-proof by dipping their ends in thin mastic or shellac varnish. If not at hand, this varnish can be easily made by dissolving asmall quantity of either sort of gum in three or four times itsbulk of alcohol. It is well to dip the whole stick in the solution, thereby rendering the entire match impervious to moisture. Lucifermatches are the best, and, when thus prepared, they may lay inwater for hours without any injury. It is a fearful thing to findoneself in the wilderness, cold and hungry, and without the meansof lighting a fire, and to prepare for such an emergency it isalways advisable to be provided with a pocket sun glass. So long asthe sun shines a fire is thus always to be had, either by ignitinga small quantity of powder (which the trapper is always supposedto carry) or using powdered "touch wood" or "punk tinder" in itsplace. Fine scrapings from dry wood will easily ignite by the sunglass, and by fanning the fire and adding additional fuel it willsoon burst into flame. In cloudy weather, and in the absence ofmatches, a fire may easily be kindled by sprinkling a small quantityof powder on a large flat stone, setting a percussion cap in itsmidst, and covering the whole with dry leaves. A smart strike onthe cap with a hammer will have the desired result, and by heapingadditional fuel on the blazing leaves the fire soon reaches largeproportions. If the young trapper should ever be so unfortunateas to find himself in the wild woods, chilled and hungry, minusmatches, powder, caps, and sun glass, he may as a last resort trythe following: Scrape some lint or cotton from some portion ofthe garment, or some tinder from a dry stick, and lay it on the[Page 235]surface of some rough rock, white quartz rock if it can be found. Next procure a fragment of the same stone, or a piece of steel fromsome one of the traps, and strike its edge sharply, and with askipping stroke into the further side of the tinder, the directionbeing such as will send the sparks thus produced into the inflammablematerial. Continue this operation until the tinder ignites. By nowgently fanning the smoking mass it may easily be coaxed into flame. At least so our Adirondack guide told us last summer. The author hasnever had occasion to test the merits of the plan for himself, andhas no special desire of being so placed, as that his life will hangupon its success. He presents it therefore as a mere suggestionwithout endorsing its practicability, and would rather prefer matchesin the long run. The open fire generally serves both for purposesof warmth and cooking, but by many, a camp stove is considered agreat improvement. Stoves of this character, and for this especialpurpose, are in the market. They are small and portable, with pipeand furniture, all of which pack away closely into the interior. A fire is easily started in one of these stoves, and, by closingthe damper, a slow fire may be kept up through the night. The stoveis generally set up at the entrance of the tent, the pipe passingthrough the top, in a hole near the ridge pole. The furniture consistsof three pots or kettles, which pack easily into each other, andwhen in the stove still leave ample room for a considerable amountof provisions. 

The kettles are made of block-tin, and frying-pans also, as theseare much more light and portable than those made of iron. The lidmay be used as a plate, and for this purpose the handle consistsof an iron ring, which will fold flat against the surface wheninverted. Knives, forks, and spoons are easily stowed away in thestove or knapsack, and a coffee-pot should always be carried. Thereis a knife known as the combination camp-knife, which is much usedby hunters and trappers, and contains a spoon, fork, knife, andvarious other useful appendages, in a most compact form. It costsfrom one to two dollars. 

For provisions, potatoes will be found excellent, both on accountof their portability and the variety of ways in which they may beserved. They are healthy and nutritions, and always palatable. Beans are also very desirable for the same reasons. Wheat flour willform a valuable addition to the trapper's larder, and particularlyso, if the "self-raising" kind can be had. This[Page 236]flour contains all the required ingredients for light bread andbiscuit, and is sold by grocers generally, in packages of varioussizes, with accompanying recipes. We strongly recommend it wherea stove is employed; and to anyone who is fond of biscuit, bread, or pancakes, it will be appreciated. Butter, lard, sugar, salt, pepper and mustard are valuable accessories, and curry-powder, olive oil, and vinegar will often be found useful. Olive oil isoften used by camping parties with the curry powder, and also asa substitute for lard in the frying-pan. Pork, Indian meal andcrackers, wheaten grits, rice, and oat-meal are desirable, andcoffee and tea are great luxuries. For soups, Liebig's extract ofbeef is a most valuable article, and with the addition of otheringredients, vegetables or meat, the result is a most delicious andnutritious dish. This extract is obtainable at almost any grocer's, and full directions and recipes accompany each jar. Canned vegetablesare much to be desired on account of their portability, and arenever so delicious as when cooked over a camp fire. Lemonade isalways a luscious beverage, but never so much so as to a thirstytrapper. A few lemons are easily carried and will repay the trouble. 

All provisions, such as meal, flour, sugar, salt, crackers, and thelike, should be enclosed in water-proof canvas bags, and labelled. The bags may be rendered water-proof either by painting, (in whichcase no _lead_ or arsenic paints should be used) or by dipping inthe preparation described on page 247. If these are not used, arubber blanket, page 250, may be substituted, the eatables beingcarefully wrapped therein, when not in use. The butter and lardshould be put up in air-tight jars, and should be kept in a coolplace, either on the ground in a shady spot, or in some cool spring. 

For a campaign on foot, the knapsack, or shoulder-basket, alreadyalluded to on page 234, is an indispensable article. It shouldbe quite large and roomy, say fifteen inches in depth and ten bytwelve inches in its other dimensions. The material should be canvas, rubber cloth, or wicker, and, in any case, the opening at the topshould have a water-proof covering extending well over the sides. The straps may consist of old suspender bands, fastened crosswiseon the broad side of the bag. The capacity of such a knapsack issurprising, and the actual weight of luggage seems half reducedwhen thus carried on the shoulders. When three or four trappersstart together, which is the usual custom, and each is providedwith such a shoulder basket, the luggage can be thus divided, andthe load for each individual much lightened. 

[Page 237]Venison is the trapper's favorite food, and in mild weather itsometimes happens that the overplus of meat becomes tainted beforeit can be eaten. To overcome this difficulty the following processis resorted to, for the preservation of the meat, and the resultis the well-known and high-priced "jerked venison" of our markets. The flesh is first cut into small, thin strips, all the meat beingpicked off from the bones. The pieces are then placed on the insideof the hide of the animal and thoroughly mixed with salt, a pintand a half being generally sufficient. The salt being well workedin, the fragments should be carefully wrapped in the hide, andsuffered to remain in this condition for two or three hours. Themeat is then ready to be dried, --"jerked. "

Four forked poles should be first driven into the ground, aboutsix feet apart, in the form of a square, the forks being four feetabove ground. Lay two poles of green wood across the forks on thetwo opposite sides of the square, and cover the space between themby other poles laid across them, an inch or two inches apart. Onto this mammoth gridiron the strips of flesh should now be spread, and a steady fire of birch or other clean, fresh wood should bekept steadily burning beneath for about twenty-four hours. At theend of this time the meat will have reduced much in size and weight. The salt will have been thoroughly _dried in_, and the flesh soprepared may be kept for almost any length of time. In its presentcondition it is excellent eating, and it is always at hand forfrying, and may be cooked in a variety of ways. Moose and bear meatmay be dried in a similar manner, using a proportionate amount ofsalt. Fish may also be prepared in the same way, for which purposethey should be scaled as usual and afterward spread open by cuttingdown the back, the bone being removed. We cordially recommend thismethod of preparing both flesh and fish, and no trapper's "recipebook" is complete without it. 

In localities where wolves abound, the nocturnal invasions of thesecreatures often render the keeping of fresh meat a very difficulttask, and in this connection it may be well to give directionsfor the preservation of game desired to be used either as freshmeat or for purposes of drying. 

The spring-pole is most commonly and successfully used. 

Select some stout sapling, bend it down, and cut off a limb severalfeet from the ground. Hang the meat in the crotch thus formed, andallow the tree to swing back. By dividing the meat into severalparts it may thus all be protected. When[Page 238]a moose or deer is killed at such a time or place, or under suchcircumstances as render its immediate dressing impossible, itscarcass may be defended against mutilation by another means. Wolvesare naturally sly and sagacious, and have a wholesome fear of atrap. Any unnatural arrangement of logs and stones immediatelyexcites their suspicion, and the trapper takes advantage of thiswary peculiarity to good purpose. Laying his dead game near somefallen tree or old log he strews a few branches over the carcass, or perhaps rests a log over it. Sometimes he hangs the entrails ofthe animal over the body, on a forked stick, anyone of which devicesis said to have the desired result. The wolverine is another pest tothe trapper, and not being so sly as the wolf, never hesitates topounce upon any flesh within its reach. The former method, therefore, is always the safest plan for absolute protection against all animals. 

The moose and deer are the favorite food of trappers in the countrywhere these animals abound, and the trappers of the Far West findin the flesh of the Moufflon, or Rocky Mountain sheep, a delicacywhich they consider superior to the finest venison. The prong-hornantelope of the Western plains is another favorite food-animalwith hunters, and the various "small game, " such as squirrels, rabbits, woodchucks, etc. , are by no means to be despised. Theauthor once knew a trapper who was loud in his praises of "skunkmeat" for food, and many hunters can testify to its agreeable flavorwhen properly dressed and cooked. It is hard, to be sure, to getupmuch enthusiasm over a skunk, dead or alive, but where other foodis not to be had we would discourage the young trapper from beingtoo fastidious. 

The buffalo, or bison, is the great resource of the trappers of theWest. The tongue, tenderloin and brisket are generally preferred, but all the meat is eatable. The flesh of the cow is best. It muchresembles beef, but has a more gamey flavor. In winged game thereis no food superior to the flesh of the grouse, and the great numberof the species and wide range of territory which they inhabit renderthem the universal food game of trappers throughout the world. Theruffed grouse or partridge, pinnated grouse or prairie hen, spruceor Canada grouse, and the cock-of-the-plains or sage cock, arefamiliar American examples of the family, and their near relatives, the ptarmigans, afford a valuable source of food to the trappersand hunters, as well as general inhabitants of our northern coldcountries. Here they are known as "snow grouse, " and there are[Page 239]several species. The willow ptarmigan is the most common, and in Romelocalities exists in almost incredible numbers. Flocks numberingseveral thousand have been frequently seen by travellers in theHudson's Bay territory; and the surface of the snow in a desirablefeeding ground, is often completely covered by the birds, in questof the willow tops, which form their chief food during the winterseason. The Indians and natives secure the birds in large numbers, by the trap described on page 75, and Hearne, the traveller andexplorer of the Hudson's Bay region, asserts that he has known overthree hundred to be thus caught in a single morning, by three persons. 

Of water fowl, ducks and geese are especially to be recommended. The former are hunted with decoys and boats, and are sometimestrapped, as described on pages 94. The species are distinguishedas sea ducks and river or inland ducks. The latter are consideredthe most desirable for food, being more delicate and less gamey inflavor than the salt-water, or fish-eating varieties. The mallard, teal, muscovy, widgeon, and wood-chuck are familiar species of theinland birds, and the merganser and canvass-back are the two mostesteemed salt-water varieties. Wild geese are common throughout NorthAmerica, and may be seen either in the early spring or late fallmigrating in immense numbers. They form a staple article of foodin many parts of British America, and great numbers are salted downfor winter supply. They are trapped in large numbers, as describedon page 75, and are hunted with tame geese as decoys, the hunterbeing secreted behind a screen or covert, and attracting the gameby imitating their cries. 

Fish form an agreeable change to the trapper's diet, and may becaught by the hook and line, or by spearing. The latter methodrequires considerable practice and skill, but is very successful. The Indians of the North are great experts in the use of the spear, and the number of salmon taken by them annually is enormous. Thespear generally consists of five or six steel prongs an inch apartand barbed at the ends. It is mounted on a heavy handle, and when itstrikes its victim its grip is sure death. The spearing is generallyperformed either at the spawning beds or at the falls. 

Salmon trout are generally speared in the night time by boat, thespawning ground, generally a gravel bank near the shore, beingthe seat of operations. A fire of pitch pine and birch bark isignited on an elevated "jack" in the bow of the boat, the "jack"consisting of an ox-muzzle, or other concave wire contrivance[Page 240]which will hold the inflammable materials. This is secured to apost or crotched stick, as a prop, and the spearman stands nearthe burning mass with his spear in readiness. As his companion inthe stern of the boat paddles, he keenly watches for his victim, and, seeing his opportunity, makes his lunge and lands his prize. To become a successful spearman requires much practice and no smalldegree of skill. To retain one's balance, acquire quickness of stroke, and withal to regulate the aim so as to allow for the refraction ofthe light in the water, all tend to invest the sport with a degreeof skill which only experience can master. 

Fishing through the ice in winter is a rare sport, and large numbersof brook and lake trout are often taken at this season by cuttingholes through the ice and fishing with hook and line. The baitscommonly used consist of cow's udder or hog's liver, these beingespecially preferred on account of their toughness. Angle wormsare also excellent, and any kind of raw meat may be used if otherbait is not to be had. 

It is asserted by some sportsmen that bait scented with assafoetidais much more attractive to the fish, and will insure a capturewhich would otherwise be impossible. Sweet cicily and anise arealso used for the same purpose. When the trout bite lively, fishingthrough the ice is a most exciting sport, and by the aid of "tip-ups"a single person may command a great number of lines. The winterresort of the brook trout is in water two or three feet deep, oversandy beds. The lake trout frequent deeper water. 

The holes are made in the ice at intervals of one or two rods, anda line set in each hole. 

The "tip-up" consists of a narrow strip of lath or shingle, witha hole bored through it near the large end. At this end the lineis attached, and the hook thrown in the water. A branch is nowinserted through the aperture, and its ends are rested across theopening in the ice. No sooner does the fish bite than the longend tips straight in the air, and thus betrays its captive. Tenor fifteen of these contrivances will often keep one pretty busy, and do good service. By some an ordinary cut fish pole, arranged ona crotch, is used instead of the tip-ups just described. Pickerelfishing through the ice is a favorite winter sport in many localities. The line should be about thirty feet in length, and the bait shouldconsist of a small, live fish, hooked through the back. A small corkfloat should be attached to the line at such a distance as will keep[Page 241]the bait above the bottom, and the superfluous line should be laidin a loose coil near the hole, the end being attached to a smallswitch or bush, stuck up in the ice near by. The pickerel, on takingthe bait, should be allowed to play out the whole line before beingpulled in, as the fish requires this time to fully swallow hisprey, after which the hook is sure to hold him firmly. Twenty orthirty lines may thus be attended at once, the bush or twig actingthe part of a tip-up, or sentinel. 

Pickerel spearing is another successful mode of capture duringthe winter months. A large hole is made in the ice, in about twofeet of water, and covered by a spacious box or board hut, six orseven feet square, and provided with a door. The spearman, concealedwithin, lowers his bait, consisting of an artificial fish withsilver fins, made especially for the purpose. This he continuallytwirls in the water, and as the pickerel approaches the bait, hegradually raises it, until the fish is decoyed nearly to the surfaceof the water, when a quick stroke of the spear secures his victim, and the line is again lowered. This is capital sport, and is verysuccessful. 

There is a very curious device for fishing by night commonly employedby some anglers, and sometimes known as the "lantern, or fish trap. "Many kinds of fish are attracted by a light, but to use a lightas a bait, submerged beneath the water, certainly seems odd. Itmay be done, however, in the following way: The "fish lantern"used for this purpose consists of a bottle containing a solutionof phosphorus in sweet oil. Procure a piece of the stick phosphorusthe size of a small cherry, and submerging in a saucer of water, proceed to cut it into small pieces. Have in readiness a three-ouncewhite glass bottle half filled with sweet oil. Drop the pieces ofphosphorus into the oil and cork the bottle tightly. In the spaceof a few hours the phosphorus will have been completely dissolved, and the contents of the bottle will present a thick, luminous fluid, which in a dark room, will afford considerable light. This is thefish lantern. To use it, the cork is firmly inserted and the bottle, with fish line attached, is lowered through the hole in the ice. The water becomes luminous for several feet around, and the unusualbrightness attracts the fish in large numbers. They are plainly, discernible, and are readily dispatched with the spear, or capturedby a circular net, sunk on the bottom, beneath the luminous bait. This is certainly an odd way of catching fish, but it is oftena very efficacious method. 

It has not been our intention to enter very extensively into[Page 242]the subject of fishing, but only to give such hints as will befound especially useful and practical to the trapper in relationto his food. The above methods, together with those of trollingand fly-fishing, are those most commonly employed by trappers andhunters generally, and we commend them to the amateur. 

We give, on page 120, a unique device for the capture of fish, whichmight also be found useful. 

With the above general remarks on the campaign, together with whatfollows in the detailed articles on the subject, we think that theground will have been completely covered. Every possible requirementhas been anticipated, and every ordinary emergency foreseen andprovided against. 

THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER. 

The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship andsevere exposure, and a man not only requires considerable courage, but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully thedangers of such a wild, adventuresome existence. 

The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is oftenexposed to the attacks of wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in oneform or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decidedcomfort, in comparison to a campaign without it. 

The reader will find below descriptions of the various sheltersalluded to in other parts of this work, and used by trappers throughoutthe land. 

The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known amongtrappers as the "home shanty, " on account of its being constructedas the only permanent shelter on the trapping line. 

It is used as a "home, " a place of rendezvous, and a storehousefor provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. Othertemporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructedalong the trapping lines at intervals of five or ten miles, asresting places. These we describe under the proper title. 

Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likelyto become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe its mode ofconstruction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurousreaders, who aspire to a full taste of wild life. 

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty. 

[Page 243][Illustration: THE HOME SHANTY. ]

[Page 244]It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by tenfeet will be found large enough for ordinary purposes. Select straightlogs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number requiredwill be thirty-six. Of these one-half should be twelve feet inlength and the other ten. These should now be built up in the squareform, on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs overeach other, and securing them by notches at the corners, so deep asto allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first, and continue building until all the thirty-six logs are used, andwe will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height. The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost logshould form its upper outline, and the two sides should be cleanlyand straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one ormore, may next be cut, commencing beneath the second log from thetop, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, andon the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceedto spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each log, aboutfive inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmlyin place, and offer a close-fitting jam for the door, and neatreceptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put inafter the ordinary manner. 

The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of thehut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as before) across thetop of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. Thisshould of course be done on both sides of the hut, after whichthey should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet inlength. Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two, and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends of theseshould be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more longlogs are next in order--let them be one foot inside the last two. Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and inthe exact centre of these last pieces chop notches for a heavylog for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridgepole to the eaves, should now be cut off by the aid of a sharpaxe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, orthe line may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs takendown in order to accomplish it. The roof is now required. Thisshould consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides oflogs split off and hollowed into troughs. The latter method ispreferable, on account of its greater strength and durability, but the bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much moreeasily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces is clearly[Page 245]shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollowside up, securing them at top and bottom by nails driven through eachinto the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of thesepieces projects well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. Thesepieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the additionof the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, theroof is complete, and will stand a heavy rain with little or noleaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grassor clay, after which the log cabin is complete. When the bark roofis made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. Theyshould be three or four inches in diameter, and run parallel withthe ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut tosecure them. 

Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed ifdesired, but the necessity of this may be done away with by usinga small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable endof the hut for the passage of the pipe. If it stove should notbe at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to thefull extent, he may build his fire-place and chimney as follows:It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at thegable end, as was done for the door and windows. This should beabout three feet square, and the fire place should be built ofstone and clay, or cement, to fill the opening, and project insidethe hut. 

The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner, sufficiently high to overtop the gables. 

Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hangingof the skins, and any number of cross-poles may be rested acrossthe beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock, if desired, and, in fact, a hut constructed like the foregoingis a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of buildinga log cabin, but we will content ourselves with what we considerthe _best_ way of all, and pass on to the

BARK SHANTY. 

This is made by first driving into the ground two forked polesseven or eight feet in height and stout enough to sustain a ridgepole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles shouldbe rested at intervals of two feet, and sloping to the angle offorty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be coveredwith bark, commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of eachpiece to overlap the one beneath[Page 246]after the manner of shingles, in order to shed the rain in caseof storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose, and the pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by theweight of another series of poles rested against them. The sidesof the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usuallyleft open to face the fire, which the trapper generally builds afew feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well toselect some spot protected from the wind, close to the foot of amountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open sideface the direction most sheltered. 

If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sidesand top, but this is not required where the fire is used. 

This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section, and certainly looks very comfortable. 

TENTS. 

Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veterantrappers of all countries, and even to the amateur there is a charmin a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods whichthe portable tents do not possess. 

Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs, and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the trapper's outfit, andwhere time is valuable, do away with the labor which the constructionof a hut or shanty involves. 

Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapperare the house-tent, fly-tent, and half-tent, or shelter-tent. 

The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closedon one end and buttoning up at the other. The sides are perpendicularfor two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropesare fastened to the eaves. 

The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, withropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown over a ridgepole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sidesare held to the proper slope by tightening and pegging the sideropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which canbe lowered, and the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground. 

The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, thebark shanty already described. It consists of a strip of canvas, having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over threeslanting poles, and the ends are brought down and securely pegged. This is clearly shown in our illustration. 

[Page 247][Illustration]

We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents, as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a general thing, canbe bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufactureof little saving or profit. The shelter-tent, however, is so usefulan affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a fewdirections in regard to its manufacture. It should be made fromstout _cotton drilling_, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piecebe about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of thepiece should now be cut to a rectangular point, commencing to cutat a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to renderthe cloth waterproof, it should now be dipped in a pail containinga solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple ofhandfuls of each, in tepid water. It should be allowed to remainseveral minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally, after which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment notonly renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum tends tomake it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tentthus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth until it goes out, without doing the slightest damage. 

[Page 248]The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, andis clear from our illustration. The poles should be three or fourin number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at theangle denoted. The two outside poles should be seven feet apart, and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece shouldnow be laid over the poles, and the ends brought down and peggedto the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side throughloops, which should have been previously attached to these parts. A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe shelter from the wind ora moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm andcomfortable. 

BEDS AND BEDDING. 

[Illustration]

Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rollinghimself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow; but we donot propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort asthis, when by a very little labor a portable bed can be preparedon which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumberingon the congenial softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kindwe illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: Procurea large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse materialsix and a half feet square. If a single piece of this size cannotbe found, several parts may he sewed together to the requireddimensions. After which two opposite sides should be firmly stitched[Page 249]together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to usethe expression. Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and aslarge as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the bag, allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends shouldnow be rested on two logs, one placed across each end of the canvas. In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logsat such distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interiorof the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, leaves, mossor spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete. 

The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warmfilling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and straw mattresscombined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and bythe addition of a blanket above, insuring warmth on all sides. Ifthe logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, drivingthem firmly into the ground at such distances as will draw thebag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. Ifby the weight of the body the forked props should tend to inclinetowards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by insertingshort poles as braces between them. If desired a bed of this kindmay be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble. It is only necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their fullwidth by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter bedeeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports. The joints should then be tightly bound with stout twine in orderto prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-airby ropes at each end, and the tired trapper may swing himself tosleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropesshould be attached at the joints, using a loop of six feet foreach end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be madeby doubling the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only asmall aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of otherropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precautionthe unpleasant experience of being turned or dumped out of bedwill be impossible. For bed clothes a woollen blanket should alwaysbe carried, and if convenient a large bag of thick Canton flannelis a most excellent acquisition. 

Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, huntersand camping parties, and are very warm and comfortable. They shouldbe nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit. " Withone of these contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothesoff" and the warmth is continual instead[Page 250]of "intermittent, " and even on the bare ground it is said to besufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, butwe can confidently recommend the suspended bed above describedas decidedly preferable. 

There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the lightfibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the large corded varietyof several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. Theyare an established article of trade, and as the details of theirmanufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, wewill leave them without further consideration. They can be had atalmost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost. 

TENT CARPETING. 

We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead andrecommend its use whenever possible; but when the bed is desiredto be made on the ground the following method is usually employed, by which the whole interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpetedwith a soft, even covering of green. 

Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be fromthe tips of the branches where the wood is not too large. Commenceat the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughswith the butt of the branch towards the front. Overlap these withanother nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreenas evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered. The projecting ends at the front, should now be secured by theweight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly atintervals. A similar log should now be laid at the back portionof the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bedis complete, and will be found easy and comfortable in proportionto the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket shouldbe thrown over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the freshgreen gives forth considerable dampness. 

If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. Theseconsist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one side with Indianrubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm andcomfortable, and a valuable acquisition to the trapper's outfit. There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proofqualities but which does not possess the warmth of the former. Either will be found useful. 

So much for beds and bedding. If the reader will now turn[Page 251]his attention to the following section, "The Trapper's Miscellany, "he will find much in detail of what has only been alluded to in thepresent chapter, besides other hints of great value in referenceto a trapping campaign. 

[Illustration]

[Page 253][Illustration: THE TRAPPERS' MISCELLANY]

[Page 255]BOOK VIII. 

THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY. 

[Illustration: O]ur enthusiastic novice, as he starts out into thewilderness, should not be unmindful of the swarms of blood-thirstyflies, gnats and mosquitoes, which infest the woods in the summerand early autumn, and are there lying in wait for him. These oftenbecome a source of great annoyance to the woodsman, and more oftena source of positive bodily suffering. 

Although trapping is not generally carried on during this season, the preparations for the coming campaign, including the buildingof shanties, transporting of traps, etc. , are generally made atthis time, and unless some preventive is used, the persecutions ofthe mosquitoes and other winged vermin, become almost unbearable. 

INSECT OINTMENTS. 

These insects seem to have a special aversion for the scent ofpennyroyal--an herb growing commonly in sandy localities--and asingle plant rubbed upon the face and hands will often greatlycheck their attacks. 

The oil of pennyroyal is better, however, and an ointment made bystraining one ounce of the oil into two or three ounces of puremelted lard, or mutton tallow, forms an excellent antidote. Thismay be carried in a little box or bottle, in the pocket, and appliedas occasion requires. Plain mutton tallow is also a most excellentointment for general use, and in the case of bruises or slightwounds, will give great relief. 

Another preparation in very common use amongst hunters and woodsmen, although not quite as agreeable in odor, consists of a mixture ofcommon tar and sweet oil, in equal parts. By some this linimentis considered superior to the other, inasmuch as it also preventstanning, and is beneficial to the complexion. 

[Page 256]During the night time, the tent or shanty often becomes swarmedwith the winged pests, and their nocturnal assaults are proverbialfor their pertinacity and severity. Their thirst for blood overcomesevery other instinct, and pennyroyal often ceases to have any effect. Our Adirondack guide, in narrating his experience with these insectvampires, even says that on a certain night, becoming exasperated attheir indomitable perseverance, and, getting tired of the monotonousoccupation of spreading ointment, he arose, lit his candle, and drovethe creatures out of the tent. He then buttoned up the opening, andretired to rest. A storm came up in the night, and so completelyhad his canvas been riddled by the bills of the mosquitoes, thatthe rain poured through his tent as through a sieve. 

We have heard of the man who, when pursued by hungry mosquitoes, took refuge beneath a large chaldron, and, by the aid of a stone, clinched the blood-thirsty bills as they protruded in quest of hislife-blood, until, by the united efforts of the winged captives, the chaldron was lifted and wafted out of sight, as if it were afeather. 

One story is just as true as the other, and a summer in the Adirondackwoods will tend to strengthen, rather than diminish, the belief ineither. 

The smoke of smouldering birch bark will effectually drive awaythe mosquitoes from the tents at night. This method is commonlyknown as "the smudge, " and is more fully described in another partof this work. 

The smell of the smoke is often unpleasant at first, but it is alwayspreferable to the insect bites. 

Mosquitoes are not the only vampires which infest our wooded lands. The "punkeys" and "midgets" can outstrip them for voracity and thepainful character of the wound which they inflict. The "punkey, "or "black-fly, " as it is called, is a small, black gnat, about thesize of a garden ant, and the bite of the insect often resultsvery seriously. The midget is a minute little creature, and is themost everlastingly sticky and exasperating pest in the catalogueof human torments. They fly in swarms of thousands, and go for theirvictim "en masse" and the face, hands and neck are soon covered asif with "hay seed. " They stick where they first light, and commenceoperations immediately. All endeavors to shake them off are fruitless, and their combined attacks are soon most painfully realized. Theirbites produce great redness and swelling, and the itching is mostintolerable. Happily for the woodsman, the "smudge"[Page 257]and pennyroyal ointment are effectual preventives against the attacksof both midgets and black flies, as well as mosquitoes; and no onewho values his life or good looks should venture on a woodlandexcursion in the summer months without a supply of this lattercommodity. In conclusion, we would remark that, to the mosquitothe blood of the intemperate seems to have a special attraction, and anyone who wishes to enjoy comparative freedom from the attacksof these pests, should abstain from the use of alcoholic stimulants. It is a too prevalent idea among trappers that whiskey and rum arenecessary adjuncts to a trapping campaign, and many a trapper wouldabout as soon think of leaving his traps at home as his whisky bottle. This is all a mistake. Anyone who has not sufficient strength ofconstitution to withstand the hardships and exposures of a trappinglife, without the especial aid of stimulants, should stay at home. We are now alluding to the _habitual_ use of such stimulants. Itis always well to be provided with a flask of whisky or brandy, in case of illness, but it should only be resorted to in such anevent. For a mere chill, we recommend the use of red pepper tea. Asimple swallow of this drink, (made simply by soaking a red pepperin a cup of hot water) will restore warmth much quicker than threetimes the amount of any alcoholic stimulant. It is not our purpose toextend into a lengthened temperance lecture, but only to discouragethe wide-spread idea that _stimulants_ are _necessities_ in thelife of the trapper. Midgets, musquitoes and punkeys delight overa victim with alcohol in his veins, and while to a healthy subjectthe bites are of only brief annoyance, to the intemperate theyoften result in painful, obstinate sores. 

[Illustration]

In addition to the various ointments used, it is well to be providedwith a head-net, such as we illustrate. Nets of this kind are speciallymade for sportsmen, and consist of a spiral wire framework, coveredwith mosquito netting, and of such a size to slip easily on thehead. 

[Page 258]They are easily made, as our engraving would indicate. 

A netting attachment for the hat is also an acquisition, especiallyin open woods, free from overhanging branches or dense thickets. Such a netting may be secured to the edge of the hat brim, andgathered with an elastic at the lower edge. This elastic will closesnugly around the neck when in use, and at other times may be drawnabove the brim and allowed to rest on top of the crown. 

The portable hat brim, which we illustrate, is an article of tradein common use among sportsmen, and particularly the angler. Ourengraving (_a_) shows the article separate. It is made of cloth, and is kept in its circular shape by a steel spring band at thecircumference, between the two sides. It may be attached to anyhat, and will act as a most effectual shelter to the rays of ahot sun. 

[Illustration: a]

The netting above alluded to may be attached to such a brim, andapplied to the edge of the hat when desired. This is shown at (_b_), which also indicates the manner of adjustment of the brim. Such abrim will often do good service, and may be obtained at almost anysporting emporium at trifling cost. It is portable in every senseof the word, being easily bent and packed away in the pocket. 

[Illustration: b]

[Page 259]BOAT BUILDING. 

Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers, a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity. 

[Illustration]

The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhapsthe most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, isthat called the--

"DUG-OUT, " OR LOG CANOE. 

It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanyingillustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easilymade. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze, and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw, broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful. 

In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter, perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed, the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can becut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carriedon the shoulders. 

A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of thelightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked. Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeedalmost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose. 

For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feetin length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface onone side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottomof the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, inthe curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration. 

[Page 260]It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths. In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straightline to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. Thegradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start fromeach end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log, the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece ofchalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood onthese curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log maybe turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities roundedoff. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed, the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in thecurves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curveshould also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a littlenearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shaveoff the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern. The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid ofthe draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothlyfinished. 

It is then ready to be "dug-out. " The tools most useful for thispurpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel. The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharptools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of thewood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howelor round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a halfin thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoesof most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness, and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course suchperfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; althoughwhere the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, itis well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small augermay be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in thefollowing manner: Supposing the required thickness of the woodis two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of thecanoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barelymakes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if thethickness measures more than is required, insert into the holea slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it inas far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach theend of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in differentparts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness, [Page 261]and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should beallowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to bedetected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble asleaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitchwill remedy the difficulty. 

The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desiredshape, but the above is the usual type. 

When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, andsmeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof. 

For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable ormore unique than--

THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE. 

Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attaina large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is athand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected toattain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit inthe manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeedsufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indiancanoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength andlightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally tothe making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditaryhabit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice, can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength, lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, whichare the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe. 

The average length of the "Bark, " as used by trappers, is abouttwelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions, to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteenor twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shouldersof two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capableof carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man. 

[Illustration]

In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale, or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar, ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat. For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelvefeet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. Theyshould be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairsthen joined at the same place. The object of[Page 262]these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and tooffer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are securedbetween them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready forthe birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in onelarge piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Selectsome large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences. Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cutin the bark through the whole length of the piece, after whichit should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimeshappen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a singlepiece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but thisis rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out, as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with anawl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threadedwith the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edgeof each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continueto sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and ahalf feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sidesof the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece ofground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less thanthe length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakesshould be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Nowturn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, andfold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this foldedcondition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set betweenthe stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting barkbeyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered byfolding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmlyto the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presentsitself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a logor stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards atabout the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay itin the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between thetwo strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a windingstitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaffan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long stripsof cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible, but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends. These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarterto half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. Theseare generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and[Page 263]a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood willanswer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will dovery well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of thecanoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distancesbetween them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath thegunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoeof twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and inorder to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces shouldbe inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustrationshows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallelat the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed ateach end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We nowhave a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, andit only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order toaccomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior ofthe canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floatingqualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur theirwhere-abouts are easily detected, and an additional applicationof pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing theirbark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, inlieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attainto such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitchunnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attainedby the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, evenout of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task withoutthe aid of tar or pitch. 

[Page 264]For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark. " With theabove directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we areequally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantagesof lightness and portability which no other style of boat wouldpossess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood, hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsyin comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made afterthe principles of the above described; either sewing or nailingthe edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seamprofusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs. 

A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT. 

The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceablebateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, couldeasily construct:--

Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length, which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boardsshould be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one ofthe sides should be straight. 

Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends ofone of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (_e_) representing theforward, (_g_) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence atabout four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward, leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (_e_). The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (_g_), commencingat about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board andcontinuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. Theboard thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and theoutline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, afterwhich the second board should be cut in a similar manner as thefirst, so as to form an exact duplicate. 

This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one overthe other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained. Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on bothboards. 

[Illustration]

Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feetin length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end ofthis piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each ofthe long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and[Page 265]nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first. We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece, which is the next requisite. This is shown at (_a_), and consistsof a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, andhewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. Itshould first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being abouteight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should beabout eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on aline with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches fromthe inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, oneinch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which willexactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (_a_). 

[Illustration]

The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should bedrawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked withlarge nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strengthof a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stemshould next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and twofeet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of theboards at the stem, as shown at (_g_), being afterwards overlappedon the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows, at (_c_). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailingboards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curveof the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, theseams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel, or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be putin, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity, acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two innumber, one being placed three feet from the stern and the otherone foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the topof the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curvecorresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed, and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat, their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sidesof the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (_h h_) in[Page 266]the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened inplace by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat intotheir ends (_f f_), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhileto keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottomof the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, inorder to keep the props in place; after which the original braceboard across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateauis complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comelyin shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudderbe required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place ofattachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places. These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside ofthe boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be founddifficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of theboat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, althoughnot as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attachedtogether by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first puton the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if leftto soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficientlyto completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak shouldcontinue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulkedand smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great valueto the trapper, not only in boat building but in the constructionof his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectuallystop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should alwaysbe applied hot. 

[Page 267]THE SCOW. 

The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow forconsiderable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling;but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bowsmay be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectlystraight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends, and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinaryflat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many casesa scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly muchmore easily made. 

We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boatsused by trappers, and with our full description and illustrationsno one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensablerequisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be foundsufficient for all ordinary purposes. 

A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher ormud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole sevenor eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment ofthe shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces, firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and soformed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be foundvery useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simplepole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answerthe purpose very well. 

SNOW-SHOES. 

These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper wherehe pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalenceof deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walkover the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, withoutthem, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible. 

In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboringdistricts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localitiesthe "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season, and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on thevelocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough, " but we noticethat a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the artis not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes[Page 268]is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in orderto get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarilywell-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice. There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will landyou, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on eachother and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secretof success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learnit at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists intaking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of thestepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet ratherfar apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions, and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, andan hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, whichat best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait. 

To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity, and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. Theyare thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we givea few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustrationgives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consistof a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent intothe form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or stripsof hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, moreor less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposesto wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it maybe rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water. Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other toughhide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by threeor four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows. 

In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made, the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which wereinterlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair. Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to, may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustrationrepresents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinarycloth. 

In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should bewound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwisewith strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuoussecurity, and the whole interior, with the exception of the spaceat the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filledwith the next work. It is well to run the first lines[Page 269]across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windingsof the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two othercords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut. This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is thestyle usually adopted by the Indian makers. 

[Illustration]

There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow whichis also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes boredat regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensedwith, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we areinclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attachingthe shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second crosspiece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be firstadjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over thefoot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways, but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above describedis the best. 

THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE. 

For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in theworld than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a wintercampaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and withoutit the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty ingetting their furs to market. All through the winter season thevarious trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbersof Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of mileson their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at[Page 270]their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewisedispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aidthem in their long tramp homewards. 

[Illustration]

In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, bothfor purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly metwith in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especiallyappreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coastingover the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sledlike it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easilyaccommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snowwith great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuablefor all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests uponthe surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributeda load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but littleimpression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustrationgives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in thefollowing way: the first requisite is a board about eight feetin length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board maybe procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose, although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It shouldbe planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch, and should be free from knots. If a single board of the requiredwidth is not easily found, two boards may be used, and securedside by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other inthe middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into theboard on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred, if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight woodencross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board. Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer[Page 271]this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticksof similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are nextneeded. These should be about five feet in length, and in thicknessexactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs ofleather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With thesein readiness we may now commence the work of putting the partstogether. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances alongthe board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces, as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, fourholes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of eachcross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well tomark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after whichthe sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed. The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as tomark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary tomake other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seenin the illustration. The line on these can also be marked withthe pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. Theseshould also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point, one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made theboard should be turned over, in order to complete preparationson the other side. The object of these various holes is for thepassage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securingthe cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent theseloops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should nextbe made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leatherstring to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected frominjury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the makingof the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplishedwith this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thusfinished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces andsides again arranged in place as already described. Secure thepieces to the board by the leather strings through the variousholes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care thatthe knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces willrequire a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, inorder to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown inthe small diagram (_a_). The front end of each side piece underneathshould now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at thefront of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be securedto the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it willappear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should[Page 272]next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by arope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece andattached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving. If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board, the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The drawstrings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece, and our toboggan is now complete. 

It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandizeand will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfectease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such atoboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys, the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering, and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. Thetoboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for trafficor sport. 

CURING SKINS. 

This department of the trapper's art is one of the most importantand necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skinin the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which itis taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without aknowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek forhigh prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins aresent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers, and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiledby want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple andeasily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insuremost perfect success. In every case the skin should be removedshortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted withdecay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherenceof flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through thehide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts aboutthe eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The variousmethods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, andin all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airyplace, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, andprotected from rain. 

Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers, but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consistsof equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into thisa sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give[Page 273]the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spreadthickly over the skin and allowed to dry. 

It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second applicationis made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter, mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful andexperienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage ofusing it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surestway is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual processof natural drying without any artificial heat or application ofastringents to hasten the result. 

A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them toa board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as alreadydescribed. 

This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposesthe "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properlycured and prepared. 

STRETCHERS. 

The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common useamong trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are oftwo kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consistsof a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteeninches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is roundedoff, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also bewhittled and smoothed to a blunt edge. 

[Illustration]

The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are takenoff whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. Theskin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, andits edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the squareend or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly[Page 274]adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size. They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers, " and are muchto be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease withwhich they can be made and carried. 

The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing, and is said to be an improvement. 

[Illustration]

The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch inthickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inchesat one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. Thisend should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled offto a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencingnear the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishingwith the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw, sever the board through the middle lengthwise. 

The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consistof a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board andof the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end tohalf an inch at the other. 

To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin, (the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then insertedbetween the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently tostretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notchesby slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. Itshould then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to"season. "

The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used forsmall skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt shouldbe skinned as described on page 185, the initial cut commencingat the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, allthe feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switchof any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. Itshould be about three or more feet in length, and as large as aman's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of theletter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being[Page 275]fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut oneach end of the bow, as our illustration indicates. 

[Illustration]

For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcheris generally employed. 

THE HOOP STRETCHER. 

This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switchestied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted tothis mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, _i. E. _ takenoff as described on page 172, the initial cut extending from thelower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends uponthe dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surfaceand so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on allsides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to thehoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up, and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. Whenthis is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to applythe preparation described on page 273, particularly where the skinis thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage theuse of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by nomeans necessary. 

In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside, and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such aposition, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of theskin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry. 

[Page 276]TANNING SKINS. 

In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for theirown domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to bereliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate. 

For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned, every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the uselessparts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an houror two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared:Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, andwith them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thinbatter. 

This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side ofthe skin, after which these sides should be doubled together andthe pelt left in an airy place. 

A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist oftwo parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or otherhard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the endof twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture, the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur againfolded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixtureequal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickenedwith coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thicklyover the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scrapedoff with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretchedduring the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. Asingle application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficientfor small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resortedto if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which itshould be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skinmay be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt willset the hair securely. 

The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, butwe subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specificrecipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobbyin regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various andextensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use. A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in thefollowing:--

TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS. 

Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed[Page 277]in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It shouldthen be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients:Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gillof salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak inthe liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previouslysalted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. Theskins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in thefollowing way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peckof wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room untilfermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir untilit is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then bepoured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse theskins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The processof "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying theskin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over theflesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, ortin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinaryfleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continueduntil the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to besoft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and thefleshing should be carefully performed. 

HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN. 

These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixturecomposed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills ofwater, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickenedwith wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin, after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take theskin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quicklybackward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring. The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the oppositeway, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft andflexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, andthe above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinarypurposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner asthe above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskratskin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals. 

To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should beimmersed in a liquid composed of--soft water, five gallons; slakedlime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow[Page 278]the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur willreadily slip off. 

Another method--take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, andadd water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the insideof the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it withwater. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hairwill shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshingknife and velveted with sand paper. 

OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE. 

In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of thewarm covering with which nature has clothed the animals aroundhim; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to themthe most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they areprocured. Skins of animals were among the first materials usedfor clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden ofEden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyriansused the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the groundin their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins andram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancientheroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothedin skins. Æneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion, and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear. Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing sealskins, and Cæsar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed inpart the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appearto have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries, and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them, and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our ownWestern territories in the latter part of the last century, and isto the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In theeleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe, and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In thehistory of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificentdisplays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs, before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. Of England, andPhilip II. Of France, in order to check the growing extravagancein their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sableamongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes. Louis IX. Followed their example in the next century, but not[Page 279]until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that _seven hundredand forty-six_ ermines were required for the _lining_ of one of his_surcoats_. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as thoseof the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restrictedto the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served asdistinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged personsapplied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extendedto the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal usesoon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedeckedwith the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furswere commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited byEdward III. , to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearlyexpenditure of £100. 

The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through themerchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods fromthe ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade wasopened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former, protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea, and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties toPersia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent richpresents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth;but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, andthe trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century, Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paidin furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but thechoicest kinds--the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, andthe best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princesand nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia. 

In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces, soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals whichpeopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vastterritories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found anincreasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrantsfrom the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articlessought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and fromthence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the greattrading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians werestimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenialand peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilatingto the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers, and explorers. 

The business prospered, and the English soon became interested andsecured a share of the valuable trade. Many[Page 280]wealthy and influential parties, connected with the governmentof Great Britain, --Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among thenumber--became deeply interested in this source of revenue; andafter a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II. , acharter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of theterritory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already grantedto other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christianprince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of alltrade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the GreatHudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizationsof its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extendedfrom Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the ArcticOcean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. Theysoon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty intoHudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigorand success. They met with much opposition and open hostility fromthe French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but inspite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factorieswere extended further into the interior of British America, andtheir power was supreme throughout the country, and in a greatmeasure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins. In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselvesinto a united band, under the name of the North West Company, andestablished their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations werecarried on with great energy and profit, and many factories werebuilt in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soonbecame a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company andfor a period of two years, an actual state of war existed betweenthem. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidationof the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company, the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerlyoccupied by both. 

Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, fromits origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendousconcern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing. Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order tobe completed before Easter; and again in September, every yearat London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all partsof the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is alsothe scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins. 

The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the[Page 281]early settlement of the Western territories of the United States;and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by theenterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of theirgrowth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune--JohnJacob Astor's, for instance--has been founded on peltry. 

Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of thoseannually collected in the United States are retained for use, amountingto about 150, 000 mink and 750, 000 muskrat skins, besides a numberof other furs which are manufactured and worn. 

The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimatedat over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we includethe manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to ahundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea ofthe immensity and value of the business. 

American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz. , _home_ and _shipping_ furs; the former being chiefly utilized inour own country, while the latter are exported to all parts ofthe world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for theshipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports, in this one branch of trade is enormous. 

The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, WildCat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk. 

Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat, the latter being extensively used both here and abroad. 

In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on theleading American furs, including their various uses and the differentcountries for which they are the especial staples. 

In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitudeof the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p. 282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London, in the year 1873. 

MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS. 

Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative valuesof the various American furs at the present date of publication. The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, aspublished in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW, " the leading journalof the trade in America. Of course these values are constantlyvarying--keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and thedemands of the fur trade; but[Page 282]the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, asbetween the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur marketis a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating, and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year finditself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kindis nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value isestimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers shoulddecide to usher in _Muskrat fur_ as the leading and most fashionablearticle in that line, the fashion would create the demand, thedemand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout thecountry, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce, so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may beworth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twentytimes that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore, constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table (page 283)will be found useful for general reference, and for approximatefigures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come. 

 ========================================================================== | No. Of | No. Of | | |Estimated | Skins. | Skins. | Total | Price according to | average KINDS. | March | Sept. | No. | quality. |price per | Sale. | Sale. | | | skin. ------------|---------|---------|---------|------------------------------- | | | | | £ s. D. Badger | 2, 700 | | 2, 700 | 1s. To 7s. | 1 06 Bear | 5, 217 | 2, 794 | 8, 011 | 5s. To £8 10s. | 5 0 00 Beaver | 111, 993 | 37, 052 | 149, 045 | 4S. 3d. To 38s. 6d. | 1 00 00 Fisher | 2, 843 | 779 | 3, 622 | 8s. To £3 5s. | 2 10 00 Fox, Blue | 90 | | 90 | 18s. To £4. | 2 10 00 " Cross | 1, 818 | 471 | 2, 289 | 5s. To £4. | 1 10 00 " Kitt | 6, 930 | | 6, 930 | 2s. 8d. To 28s. 10d. | 3 00 " Red | 6, 914 | 1, 383 | 8, 297 | 4s. 6d. To 17s. | 10 00 " Silver | 540 | 148 | 688 | £3 10s. To £21. | 10 00 00 " White | 7, 312 | | 7, 312 | 2s. To 14s. 9d. | 7 00 Lynx | 2, 468 | 1, 652 | 4, 120 | 9s. 6d. To £1 14s. | 18 00 Marten | 47, 878 | 18, 955 | 66, 833 | 10s. To £3 19s. | 1 10 00 Mink | 31, 802 | 12, 896 | 44, 698 | 4s. To £1 8s. 6d. | 15 00 Muskrat | 651, 498 | 116, 488 | 767, 896 | 3d. To 16d. | 00 8 Otter | 8, 571 | 2, 681 | 11, 252 | 14s. To £3 18s. | 2 10 00 " Sea | | 98 | 98 | £4 10s. To £32. | 15 00 00 Rabbit | 10, 029 | | 10, 029 | 3d. To 4d. | 00 3 Raccoon | | 3, 582 | 3, 582 | 1s. To 3s. 3d. | 2 6 Skunk | 1, 691 | | 1, 691 | 2s. To 7s. | 4 00 Wolf | 6, 216 | 188 | 6, 404 | 6s. To £2 15s. | 15 00 Wolverine | 1, 770 | 320 | 2, 090 | 8s. To £1 1s. | 15 00 ==========================================================================

[Page 283] AMERICAN FUR SKINS--TABLE OF VALUES. [*] ========================================================================== | Prime. |Seconds. | Thirds. |Fourths. --------------------------------------|--------|--------|--------|-------- Badger | $1. 00 | $0. 50 | $0. 10 | $ Bear, Black | 18. 00 | 9. 00 | 1. 00 | " Cub | 10. 00 | 5. 00 | 1. 00 | " Brown | 7. 00 | 4. 00 | 1. 00 | Beaver, California per lb. | 1. 25 | 75 | 50 | " Southern | 1. 00 | 75 | 40 | " Upper Missouri | 1. 75 | 1. 50 | 50 | " Lake Supr. And Canada. | 2. 50 | 1. 75 | 75 | Cat, Wild | 40 | 10 | | " House | 15 | 10 | | Deer, Florida per lb. | 20 | | | " Missouri | 20 | | | Elk and Moose per lb. | 35 | 25 | | Fisher, Southern | 7. 00 | 5. 00 | 1. 00 | " Eastern and Canada | 10. 00 | 8. 00 | 2. 00 | Fox, Silver | 100. 00 | 25. 00 | 1. 00 | " Cross | 3. 00 | 1. 50 | 1. 00 | " Blue | 15. 00 | 5. 00 | 1. 00 | " White | 3. 00 | 1. 50 | | " Red | 1. 75 | 1. 00 | 75 | 25 " Gray | 3. 00 | 1. 50 | 50 | 25 " Kitt | 50 | 25 | | Lynx, Minnesota | 2. 50 | 1. 00 | | " Canada | 4. 00 | 2. 00 | | Marten, Dark | 10. 00 | 6. 00 | 2. 00 | " Small Pale | 2. 00 | 1. 00 | 50 | Mink, Southern | 1. 00 | 50 | 25 | 10 " Western | 1. 25 | 1. 00 | 50 | 10 " Middle States | 2. 00 | 1. 25 | 50 | 10 " Minnesota | 2. 50 | 1. 50 | 75 | 20 " New England | 3. 50 | 1. 75 | 1. 00 | 20 " Quebec and Halifax | 4. 00 | 2. 00 | 1. 00 | 20 Muskrat, Southern | 28 | 25 | 15 | 5 " Western | 30 | 28 | 18 | 6 " Northern | 32 | 30 | 20 | 8 " Eastern | 35 | 30 | 22 | 10 Opossum, Ohio | 30 | 20 | 10 | " Southern | 20 | 10 | | Otter, Southern | 5. 00 | 3. 00 | 2. 00 | 50 " Northern | 10. 00 | 6. 00 | 2. 00 | 50 Rabbit | 3 | | | Raccoon, Southern | 50 | 30 | 15 | 5 " Western | 1. 00 | 50 | 20 | 5 " Michigan | 1. 25 | 80 | 30 | 5 Seal, Hair | 60 | | | " Fur | 10. 00 | | | Skunk, Black Cased | 1. 00 | 60 | 40 | 10 " Half Stripe | 60 | 50 | 25 | 10 " White | 20 | 10 | | Wolf, Timber | 3. 00 | 1. 50 | | " Prairie | 1. 00 | 75 | | Wolverine | 5. 00 | 2. 00 | | ==========================================================================

[Footnote *: From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review. "]

[Page 284]Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapperoften experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of hisfurs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regulargrooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experiencedprofessional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offera _dollar_ to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, butthe knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent _greater_discouragement. 

We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-classskins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "_prime_, "the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with ameagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealershave the opportunity of choice selection without incurring anyrisk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and hasseen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very smallproportions. 

The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels;and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as themost satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his salesto some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the furtrade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skinswith the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizinga profit. 

In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, andalthough the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateurtakes none of the speculative risks of the business, and shouldbe willing to take lower prices on this account. 

AMERICAN FUR SKINS--THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD. 

In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by_climate_; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulatedby the caprice of _fashion_. The mink for many years took the leadin the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been supersededby the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costlyof our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. Whenhighly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in theEuropean market. They are principally bought by the Russians andChinese. 

The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks, Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into liningsfor robes, etc. , and ornamented with the black fur of the pawswhich is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the[Page 285]Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats andyielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies, constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materialshave since been substituted in making hats, and the demand forthis purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skinis now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, andits fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, whitefur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France forbonnets. 

Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where, on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demandfor linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of theblack and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings, holsters, sleigh robes, etc. 

The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyedof a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and liningsof cloaks, chiefly in America. 

The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used infashionable winter apparel. 

The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice fursand trimmings. 

The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus asthe Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as tobe sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and thehair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist'spencils. 

The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largelyexported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated thatover six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America, and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone. 

The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leadingfashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplishblack color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is alsoused by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an Americanproduct, but is also procured to some extent in the British Islesfrom a smaller variety of the species. 

The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and suchpurposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufactureof felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The businessof breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into theUnited States, and large numbers have been successfully raised inDanbury, Conn. , for felting purposes connected with the manufactureof hats. 

[Page 286]The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the mostpart in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings. 

The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which formsone of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exportedto Poland and the adjacent provinces. 

The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is alsoextensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good"badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit. Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegatedhair of the badger. 

The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, andthe skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extentin the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and WildCat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomelymounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionablethoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are usedfor linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufacturedinto light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernaliais sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows. 

Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be foundin our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals. 

[Illustration: THE END. ]

[Page 289][Illustration: INDEX]

A

Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, 256. Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, 283. Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c. , 236. Alaska Sable, 286. --See also Skunk. Alcohol, its use and abuse, 257. Alum--used in waterproofing, 249. "Amateur Trapping, " 225. AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, 152. AMERICAN FUR SKINS. --Table of values, 284. Their uses at Home and Abroad, 284. American Lion. --See Puma. Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured animals, 144. To prevent, 144, 145. Ancient uses of Furs, 278. ANISE, OIL OF. -- Its use in the art of trapping, 152. As bait for fish, 240. Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, 281. Apparatus for stretching skins, 273. Arrows, poisoned, 26. Arrow Traps, 23, 25. Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, 286. ART OF TRAPPING, 148. ASSAFOETIDA. -- Its use by the Trapper, 151. As scent bait for fish, 240. ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, 281. Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, 273, 276. 

B

BADGER, THE, -- Nature and habits of, 175. Skinning the, 177. Trapping the, 175. Uses of Fur, 286. Value of Fur, 284. Bags, Waterproof, for food, 236. Baiting the Steel Trap, 143. Baits for fishing, 240. Baits, scent, 149. Bait, Trapping without, 148. BARK SHANTY. -- Hints on, 266. Details of construction, 245. Bark-Stone. --See Castoreum. Bark-Stone composition. --See Castoreum. "Barque. "--See Birch Bark Canoe. Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, 264. BARREL TRAPS, 125, 127, 133. Basket for the shoulders, 234, 236. Basswood-bark canoes, 264. Bateaux, 264. BAT FOWLING NET, 70. Baking, recipe for, 253. Bay Lynx. --See Wild Cat. Beans as food, 235. BEAR. -- Nature and habits of, 168, 227. Trapping the, 168. Traps for, 17, 29, 143. Various species of, 168. Directions for removing skin, 172. Use of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. "Bear Tamer, " 137, 142. "Bear Chasing, " dangers of the sport, 170. [Page 290]Bear Grease, 171. Bear Meat, to roast, 233. " " to dry, 237. BEAVER. -- Nature and habits of, 177. Trapping the, 177. Skinning the, 182. Skin, to tan, 277. Use of fur, 285. Value of skin, 284. BEDS AND BEDDING, 248. Bed, spring, 248. " hammock, swinging, 249. Bed clothes, 249. BIG HORN, the, 220. As food, 220, 238. Nature and habits of, 220. Trapping the, 220. BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, 226. Directions for making, 261. Bird-Catching Net, 70. BIRD LIME, 97. Masticated Wheat used as, 99. Recipe for making, 98. Used in capture of Puma, 35. Used for capture of Humming Bird, 99. Used in making Fly-paper, 136. Used with an Owl as decoy, 98. With paper cone, as a Crow trap, 96. BIRD TRAPS, 65. " Box, 88, 90. 91. BIRD WHISTLE, 72. BISON. --See Buffalo. Black Fly. --See "Punkey. "Blanket, woollen, 250. Rubber, 236. Use of, 250. Block-tin, used for kettles, &c. , 235. Blossom, utilized as a trap, 99. Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, 99. BOARD FLAP, the, 130. BOARD STRETCHERS, 273. BOATS, remarks on, 226. Manufacture of, 259. The dug-out, or log canoe, 259. The birch-bark canoe, 261. The bateau, 264. The scow, 267. The flat-bottomed boat, 267. Boiled Mush, 232. " to fry, 232. Boiling water used in bending wood, 268, 272. Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, 17. II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, 39. III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65. IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103. V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125. VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137. VII. THE CAMPAIGN, 225. VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255. Boots, hints on, 228. Grease for, 228. Bottle Lantern, 241. " Match Safe, 234. BOW STRETCHER, for skins, 274. BOW Traps, 23, 25, 116. BOWL TRAPS, 135, 136. Box Bird Traps, 55, 88, 90, 91. BOX DEAD FALL, 128. Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, 241. BOW OWL TRAP, 88. BOX PIT-FALL, 131. BOX SNARES, 55, 56. BOX TRAP, the, 103. Two modes of setting, 105. Box Traps, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110. BOX TRAP, pendent, 91. Brandy on a trapping campaign, 257. Brass wire nooses, 41. Brick Trap, 66. Broiling, recipes for, 233. Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, 240. " To cook deliciously, 232. Bruises, ointment for, 255. Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, 149. Building the camp fire, 233. Buffalo, the, 220. As food, 221, 238, How hunted and trapped, 221. Building boats, 259. Butternut log, for canoe, 239. Butter, to keep on a campaign, 236. 

C

Cage traps for birds, 76. " " mice, 134. Call Birds, how used, 72. CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, 225. CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, 225. Camp fire, 228. To build, 233. Camp Kettle, 235. " Knife, 235. " Stove, 228, 235. Canada Grouse, 238. " Lynx. --See Lynx. " Moose. --See Moose. Candles, in camp, 227. " Novel way of using, 218. [Page 291]Canned vegetables, 236. CANOES, remarks on, 226. " Basswood-bark, 264. " Birch-bark, directions for building, 261. " Hemlock bark, 264. " Log. --See Dug-out. " Spruce bark, 264. Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, 249. Canvass-back Duck, as food, 239. Canvas bags, waterproof, 236. Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, 234. CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, 154. CARPETING TENTS, 250. CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, 150. How obtained, 150. How used. --See Beaver. CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, 150. Cat, domestic, use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Cat, wild. --See Wild Cat. Caulking boats, 261, 266. Caution in baiting steel traps, 113. Caution in handling steel traps, 149. Chill, remedy for, 257. Chimney-fire in log shanty, 245. Chip as a plate, 232. Chip, for a frying pan, 230, 232. Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, 152. Choosing a trapping ground, 225. Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, 240. Cities built up by the fur trade, 281. CLAP NET, 72. Clearing tents and shanties from insects, 230. Climate and fur apparel, 284. CLOG, THE, 146. Cloth for tent making, 247. " Waterproof preparation for, 247. Clothing, hints on, 228. Coasting on the Indian sled, 270. Cock of the plains, 238. Coffee, 236. Coffee-pot, 235. Cold, remedy for, 257. Combination camp-knife, 235. COMMON BOX TRAP, 103. Compass, pocket, 227. Compound scent-bait, 150, 153. Concealing steel traps, 229. Cone of paper as a trap, 96. Corrall, African trap, 34. COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, 230, 235. Coon. --See Raccoon. COOP TRAP, 67. " For large game, 33. Cotton drilling, used for making tents, 247. " Waterproof preparation for, 247. "Cotton Tail. "--See Rabbit. Cougar. --See Puma. Cow's udder, as fish bait, 240. Crackers as food, 236. Crow trap, 96. CUMMIN, used in trapping, 152. Cup, portable, 231. CURING SKINS, 272. Current price list of American furs, 284. 

D

Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, 71. Deer hunters, 217. DEAD-FALLS, 17, 29, 107, 111, 113. " Box, 128. " For large game, 17. " How set for the fox, 113. " Stone, 29. " Weighted harpoon, 26. " With figure four trap, 114. Dead fish, valuable in making trails, 153. Decoys, 72, 76, 94. Decoy traps, 72, 76, 94. " Whistle, 74. " Owl used as, 98. DEER, 124. As food, 233, 237, 238. How to skin the, 219. Hunting at night, 217, 218. Luminosity of eyes at night, 217, 218. Natural characteristics of, 214. Salt as bait for, 218. Season for hunting, 218. Trapping the, 214, 215. Various modes of hunting, 217. Various species of, 215. Deer lick, the, 215. Deer meat, to dry, 237. Deer meat, to roast, 233. Delmonico outdone, 232. Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, 217. Devices used in connection with the steel trap, 144, 147. Devils' Lantern, 241. Diet of the Trapper, 230. "DOUBLE ENDER, " the, 109. Double traps, 57, 109, 110, 129. DOWN FALL, the, 26. Dressing for fur skins, 273, 276. Dressing for leather, 228. Dressing skins for market, 272. " Home use, 276. Dried fish, 237. Dried venison, 237. Drilling, as tent material, 247. " Waterproof preparation for, 247. [Page 292]Drinking cup, portable, 231. Drying skins, 272, 273, 276. Ducks, various species of, 239. As food, 239. To cook deliciously, 233. DUCK TRAPS, 94, 95. "DUG-OUT, " THE, hints on, 226. Detailed directions for making, 259. 

E

Eels, oil prepared from, 151. Elk. --See Moose. "Ephraim. "--See Bear. Escaping from the mosquitoes, 255. Exports of furs, 281, 285. Extemporized frying pan, 232. "Toaster, " 233. Extract of beef, Liebig's, 236. Extravagance in fur apparel, 279. 

F

False bottom traps, 127, 131, 133. Fashion and fur, 279, 283, 285. FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, 65. Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, 286. FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152. FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, 152. FIGURE FOUR SNARE, 61. FIGURE FOUR TRAP, 107. " Used with Dead-Fall, 114. Finger, as a weather vane, 217. Fire, to build, 227. " To light without matches, 234. " With powder and cap, 234. " Without "anything, " 235. Fire arms, 227. " Oil for, 227. Fire bottle, 241. Fire Hat for night hunting, 218. Fire-proof preparations for tents, 247. Fish, to bake, 232. To dry, 237. To fry, 233. FISHER MARTEN. -- How to trap the animal, 194. Its nature and habits, 194. Its common mode of release from capture, 144. Method of skinning, 195. Use of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, 95. Fishing, hints on, 239. At night, 239. Through the ice, 240. Various baits, 240. With tip-up. 240. For pickerel, 240. Fishing tackle, 227, 240, 241. Fish lantern, 241. FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, 151. How obtained, 151. Fish, scent baits for, 240. Spearing, 239. Fish traps, 120, 241. Flat bottomed boats, 264, 267. Flat bottomed sled. --See TobogganFlat stone, as a frying pan, 232. Flower, converted into a trap, 99. Fly, black. --See "Punkey. "FLY-PAPER, to make, 136. Fly Tent, the, 246. Fly traps, 136. Food, portable, 230. FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, 230. "FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, 96. Forks, 235. Fortunes founded on peltry, 281. FOWLING NET, the, 70. Fox. -- Nature and habits of, 154. Trapping the, 154. Trapped by a dead-fall, 111, 113. Varieties of, 154. Directions for skinning, 158. --See also Red and Silver Fox. "Fox fire, " used in capture of deer, 218. Fritters, pork, to cook, 231. Frying pan, 231, 235. " An extemporized, 232. Fur Market, eccentricities of, 283. Furs, ancient uses of, 278. Annual yield throughout the world, 281. Furs, best season for, 147. "Home, " 281. Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, 281. "Shipping, " 281. Table of market values, 282. Fur skins, to cure for market, 272. To tan, 276. Hints on selling for profit, 283. Various uses of, 285. FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, 278. Immensity of, 281. 

G

Game, protected from wolves, 237. GAROTTE TRAP, 114. Gloves to be used in trapping, 149. Glutton. --See Wolverine. [Page 293]Gnats, 230, 256. Painful effects of their bites, 256. Remedies for their bites, 255. Driven away by the "Smudge, " 230. Gnat, black. --See "Punkey. "Goose trap, 75. GOPHER. -- Nature and habits of, 205. Trapping the, 205. Traps for, 119, 120, 40. Directions for skinning, 206. Grappling iron, the, 146. Grease for boots and shoes, 228. "Great Bear Tamer, " the, 142. GRIZZLY BEAR. -- Nature and habits of, 169. Trapping the, 169. Traps for, 17, 142. Use of fur, 285. Ground plan of trapping lines, 228. Ground, selection for trapping, 225, GROUND SNARES, 44. Grouse, as food, 233, 238. Bait for, 42. Oil of, for fire arms, 227. Peculiarities of, 42. Snares for, 39. To cook deliciously, 233. Various species of, 238. GUN TRAP, 20. 

H

Hair Nooses, 41. Half tent, 246. Hammocks, 250, Hammock bed, 249. Handling steel traps, caution in, 149. Hanging bed, 249. Hare. --See Rabbit. HARPOON TRAP of Africa, 26. Hat Brim, portable, 258. Netting attachment for, 258. Hat lantern for night hunting, 218. Hawk snare, 43. HAWK TRAP, 93. Head lantern used in deer hunting, 218. HEAD NET, 257. HEDGE NOOSES, 41. Hemlock bark canoes, 264. Hemlock boughs, as bedding, 250. Hemp, used in caulking boats, 261, 266. "Hiding" steel traps, 229. High top boots, 228. Hints on baiting the steel trap, 143. Hints on selection of trapping ground, 225. Hints on skinning animals, 272. Hints on trapping, 148. Hints on plans of trapping lines, 228. Hints on sale of furs, 283. Hippopotamus trap, 26. Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, 278. Hoe cake, to cook, 232. Hogs carried off by bears, 170. Hog's liver used as fish bait, 240. "Home Furs, " 281. HOME-MADE BOAT, 264. Honey as bait, 19, 31, 170. Hook trap for ducks, 95. Hopo, African trap, 34. Hoop nooses, 40. HOOP STRETCHER for skins, 275. Horse hair nooses, to make, 41. Hot drink for chills, 257. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, 125. House Tent, 247. How to select a steel trap, 138. HOW TO TRAP, 153. Hudson Bay Company, origin of, 280. Sales of, 281, 282. Humming bird, killed by concussion, 99. " Snare, 99. " Trap, 99. " Various modes of capture, 99. Hunting the deer, 217. Hunting from trees, 218. HUT, LOG. --See Log Shanty. 

I

Implements required on a trapping campaign, 227. Improved springle, 60. INDIAN CANOE. --See BIRCH BARK CANOE. Indian meal, as food, 231. INDIAN SLEDGE. --See Toboggan. INDIAN SNOW SHOE, 268. India-rubber blanket, 236. How used, 250. INSECT OINTMENTS, 255. Insect bites, remedies for, 255. " Sores resulting from, 257. Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, 230, 256. Intemperance, 257. 

J

Jack knife, a valuable tool, 227. Jar, as a trap, 135. [Page 294]Jar, air-tight, for butter, 236. "Jerked Venison, " 231. JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, 281. Johnny cake, to cook, 232. 

K

Kettle, camp, 235. Knapsack, 234. Directions for making, 236. Knife, a necessary implement, 227. Knife, the combination camp, 235. Knives, table, 235. 

L

Lake trout, fishing for, 240. To cook deliciously, 232. Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, 218. Lantern used by bird catchers, 71. Lantern trap for fish, 241. Large game, traps for, 17. LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, 152. Leather preservative, 228. "Le Chat. "--See Lynx. Lemonade, 236. Lens, to light fire with, 234. Lever for setting large steel traps, 142. Liebig's extract of beef, 236. Light, the trapper's, 227. Light for the head in night hunting, 218. Light home-made boat, 264. Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, 152. Liniment for wounds and bruises, 255. " Insect bites, 255. Linseed oil, used as bird lime, 98. Lion, American. --See Puma. LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, 284. Liver, as fish bait, 240. LOG CABIN. --See Log Shanty. Log Canoe. --See Dug-Out. LOG COOP TRAP, 33. LOG SHANTY, hints on, 226, 229. Detailed directions for building, 244. Site for building, 244, 287. To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, 230. Lucifer Matches. --See Matches. "Luxuries, " 234. LYNX, THE CANADIAN, 164. Natural characteristics of, 164. Trapping the, 164. Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 33, 35, 141. LYNX. -- Directions for skinning, 166. Use of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. 

M

Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, 281. Mallard Duck as food, 239. " to Cook. --See Duck. MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, 281. Marmot. --See Woodchuck. MARTEN:-- Nature and habits of, 192. Trapping the, 192. Its common mode of escape, 144. Directions for removing skin, 194. How to tan the Skin, 277. Value and use of skin, 284, 285. Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, 234. MATCHES, 227. Bottle used for carrying, 234. To render water-proof, 234. Meal, Indian, as food, 231. Meat, to dry, 237. "MEDICINES, " OR SCENT BAITS, 149. Menagerie Whistle, 74. Merganser, the, as food, 239, To cook. --See Duck. MIDGETS, 256. Painful effect of their bites, 256. Driven away by the "Smudge, " 230. Ointments for bites, 255. Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257. MINK:-- Nature and habits of, 189. Trapping the, 189. Traps for, 43, 141. Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, 144. Directions for skinning, 191. To tan skin of, 277. Extensive use of skins in America, 281. Uses of skin, 285. Value of skin, 284. MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, 148. MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, 255, MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, 103. MOLE, 207. Beauty of fur, 209, 211. Life and habits of, 207. Trapping the, 119, 210. Traps for, 119, 120, 140. Varieties of, 211. Directions for skinning. --See Gopher. Use of fur, 286. [Page 295]Montreal and the Fur Trade, 281. MOOSE:-- Nature and habits of, 219. Trapping the, 220. "Yards, " 220. Flesh as food, 220, 223, 238. How to skin the animal, 220. Moose meat, to roast, 233. " Meat to dry, 237. MOSQUITOES, 230. Painful effects of their bites, 257. Ointments for bites, 255. Driven away by the "Smudge, " 230. Adirondack experiences with, 255, 256. Head-net, 257. Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257. Mouse Traps, 124, 130, 131, 134, 135. Mud Stick or Pusher, 267. Mush, to boil, 232. To fry, 232. MUSK:-- Its use in the art of trapping, 151. How obtained, 151. MUSKRAT:-- Nature and habits of, 182. Pit-fall Trap for, 133. Spearing the, 183. Trapping the, 182. Traps for, 43, 107, 110, 111, 114, 133, 141. Its common mode of release, 144. Extensive use of skins in America, 281. Skin, to remove, 185. To tan, 277. Use of, 286. Value of, 284. Muscovy Duck as food, 239. To cook. --See Duck. Musquaw. --See Bear. 

N

Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, 149. Natural History. Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, 148. Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, 227. NET:-- " Bat fowling, 70. " Bird catching, 70. " Clap, 72. " Decoy, 72. " Fish, use of, 241. Net for the head, 257. " Fowling, 70. Net traps, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85. For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, 35. Spring, 80. The upright, 85. Wild Duck, 94. Wild Goose, 175. Netting attachment for Hat brim, 258. NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, 138. Night-hunting, 217, 218. Night-fishing, 239. Nooses:-- Horse hair, 41. In hedge, 42. On hoops, 40. On string, 40. NOOSE TRAPS, 39. Nooses, wire, 41. Northwest Fur Company, 280. Nutting in Mid-winter, 212. 

O

Oar-locks, simple, 266. Oat-meal as food, 236. OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, 278. Oil, Fish. -- Used in trapping, 151. How obtained, 151. Oil of Amber. -- Used in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Ambergris. -- Used in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Anise:-- Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Cinnamon:-- Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Fennel:-- Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Fenugreek:-- Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Lavender:-- Its use in the art of trapping, 152. Oil of Rhodium:-- Its use by trappers, 151. Oil of Skunk:-- Its use by trappers, 151. Oil:-- For fire arms, 227. For light, 227. Oil of Partridge:-- Its use, 227. Oil of Pennyroyal:-- For insect bite, 255. [Page 296]Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, 255. OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, 255. OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, 58. Olive Oil in cooking, 236. OPOSSUM, 201. Nature and habits of, 202. Trapping the, 201. Hunting the, 202. Directions for skinning, 203. Uses of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. OTTER:-- Nature and habits of, 202. Trapping the, 186. Directions for skinning, 189. How to tan the skin, 277. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. OWL TRAP, 88. Owl:-- Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, 98. 

P

Paint as a water-proof covering, 236. Painter, the. --See Puma. Panther, the. --See Puma. Paper Cone used as a trap, 96. Partridge, 42, 238. As food, 238. Fat for fire arms, 227. Snares, 39, etc. To cook deliciously, 233. Peltry:-- Fortunes founded on, 281. Cities built up on, 281. PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, 91. Pennyroyal for insect bites, 255. Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, 234. Peshoo, the. --See Lynx. Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, 218. Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, 241. Pickerel fishing, 240. " Spearing, 241. " Trap for, 121. " To cook, 233. Pigeon Net-trap, 72. Pigs carried off by Bears, 170. Pine Log Canoe. --See Dug-out. Pinnated Grouse, 238. Pitch for stopping leaks, 261, 264, 266. PIT-FALL TRAPS. -- For large game, 31. For small game, 125, 127, 131. Barrel, 127. Box, 131. For Muskrat, 133. PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, 225. Plates, substitutes for, 232, 235. Platform snare. 61. Poachers, or trap robbers, 229. POACHER'S SNARE, 48. Pocket compass, 227. POCKET HAT BRIM, 258. " Sun-glass, 234. Poisoned arrows, 26. POISONING, 222. Pop-corn as bait for Quail, 54. Portable boats, 259. Portable food & cooking utensils, 230, 235. Portable drinking cup, 231. Hat brim, 258. " With netting attached, 258. Snares, 50, 52. Stove, 228, 235. Pork as food, 231. " Fritters, 251. " " To make, 232. "Possum. "--See Opossum. Potatoes as food, 235. Pouched Rat. --See Gopher. Powder used in lighting fire, 234. Prairie Hen, 238. Prairie Whistle, 74. Precautions in handling steel traps, 156. PREFACE, 3. Preparation of skins for market, 272. Preserve jar used as trap, 135. Price Current of American Furs, 284. Prime fur, best season for, 147. Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, 232. Profit in selling furs, 233. PRONGHORN Antelope, 221. Nature and habits of, 221. How hunted and trapped, 221, 238. Provisions, to protect from Wolves, 237. Ptarmigan, to cook, 233. Trap for, 75. How hunted and trapped, 239. Various species of, 230. PUMA:-- Bait for, 20, 31, 32, 163. Nature and habits of, 161. Peculiarities of, 20. Traps for, 17, 20, 23, 29, 31, 33, 141. Trapping the, 161. Directions for skinning, 164. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, 276. "PUNKEY. "-- Description of the Insect, 256. Severity of bites, 256. Ointment for bites, 255. Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, 257. [Page 297]Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, 234. "Pusher. "--See Mud stick. Putty, for stopping leaks, 261. 

Q

Quail, bait for, 40, 54. " Snares, 39, 40, 41, etc. To cook deliciously, 233. Quotations of the Fur Market, 284. 

R

RABBIT:-- As food, 238. Bait for, 203. How to skin, 204. Nature and habits of, 203. Salt as bait for, 109, Traps for, 43, 64, 103. Use of fur, 286. Value of fur, 284. Varieties of, 203. RACCOON:-- As a pet, 173. Nature and habits of, 172. Trapping the, 172. Traps for, 110, 116, 141. Hunting the, 172. Directions for skinning, 175. How to tan the skin, 277. Use of the fur, 285. Value of the fur, 284. Rat:-- Snares for, 43. Trapping the, 125. Traps for, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138. Rations for a Campaign, 230. Raw Furs. --See Furs. Recipe for insect ointments, 255. Boot grease, 228. For cooking, 230. For curing skins, 272. For tanning skins, 276. Red Fox. --See Fox. Red Fox. -- Value of skin, 284. Use of skin, 285. Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, 257. Red Squirrel. --See Squirrel. Remedies for insect bites, 255. For chills, 257. Requisites of a good steel trap, 138. " For snaring, 39. " For a good trapping ground, 225. " For a trapping campaign, 227. Revolver, 227. Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, 111, 113. RHODIUM, Oil of:-- Its use by the trapper, 151. Rice as food, 236. Rifle and Shot Gun combined, 227. Oil for, 227. RIFLE TRAP, 20. Roasting, recipes for, 233. Rocky Mountain Sheep. --See Big Horn. "Roughing it, " 230. Rubber blanket, 236. How used, 250. Ruffed Grouse. --See Partridge. Rum on a trapping campaign, 257. 

S

Sage Cock, the, 238. Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, 282. Salmon, spearing, 239. " Spear, 239. Salmon Trout, spearing, 239. Salmon, to cook deliciously, 232. Salt as bait for Deer, 218. As bait for Rabbit, 109. Salt Lick, the, 218. Sandpaper used in softening skins, 276. Salt Pork as food, 231. SCENT BAITS, 149. " Compound, 150, 153. Scented baits for birds, 240. Scented baits for fish, 240. Season for Deer hunting, 218. Scow, 267. Season for trapping, 147. Selection of trapping ground, 225. Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, 144. Self-amputation, to prevent, 144, 145. Self-raising flour, 235. SELF-SETTING TRAPS, 110, 125, 127, 131. SHANTY:-- Bark. --See Bark Shanty. "Home. "--See Log Shanty. Log. --See Log Shanty. Sheeting as tent material, 247. Water-proof, preparation for, 247. Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, 234. SHELTER:--The trapper's remarks on, 226. Shelter tent, 247. Details of construction, 242. Shingle stretchers for skins, 274. [Page 298]"Shipping furs, " 281. SHOOTING AND POISONING, 222. Shot-gun Trap, 20. Shot-gun combined with rifle, 267. Shoulder basket, 234, 226. SIEVE TRAP, 65. Silver Fox, 154. Value of skin, 284, 285. Skinning animals, hints on, 272. Skins:-- Stretchers for, 273. To dry, 272, 276. To soften, 276, 277. To tan, 276. Value of, 284. Use of, 285. SKUNK, 195. Adventure with, 196. As food, 238. Nature and habits of, 195. Trapping the, 195. Traps for, 43, 111, 114, 141. To eradicate odor of, 152, 198. Oil of, used in trapping, 151. Directions for skinning, 198. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Sled, Indian. --See Toboggan. SLIDING POLE, 145. Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, 98. "Small Game" as food, 237. Smell, acute sense of, in animals, 148. Smoking the steel trap, 128. Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, 230. Smudge, the, 230, 256. SNARE. -- Box, 55. Double box, 56. Fig. Four, 62. Hawk, 43. Hedge, 42. Hoop, 40. Humming-bird, 99. Knotted string, 52, 53, 54. Pasteboard box, 56. Platform, 61. Poacher's, 48. Portable, 48, 50, 52. Quail, 53. Rat, 43. "Simplest, " 52. Springle, 58, 60. Stovepipe, 120. Tree, 42. Triangle, 42. Twitchup, 43. Wood Chuck, 43. SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, 37. Snaring, requisites for, 39. Snow Grouse, the, 238. SNOW-SHOES, 267. Snow-shoe race, 267. Softening skins, 276, 277. Sores resulting from insect bites, 257. Soups, recipes for, 236. Spearing fish, 239, 241. Spearing Muskrats, 183. Spider for cooking, 233. Spoons, 235. Spring-bed, 249. SPRINGLE, 58, 60. Spring-net Traps, 80. Spring-pole, the, 144. Spring, to temper, 84. Spruce Bark Canoes, 264. Spruce boughs as bedding, 250. Spruce Grouse, 238. SQUIRRELS, 211. As food, 238. Nature and habits of, 211. Traps for, 43, 103, 106, 107, 110, 116, 128, 140. Various species of, 213. To cook, 233. Use of skins, 286. STEEL TRAPS, 137. Caution in handling, 149. Concealing in the woods, 229, Various modes of setting, 144. Requisite number for a campaign, 227. To set for rats, 128. To select judiciously, 138. Requisites of, 138. Hints on baiting, 143. Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, 142. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, 137. Still hunting, 217. Stimulants, 257. Stone Dead-fall, 29. Storing traps in the woods, 229. Stove, portable, 228, 235. Stovepipe fish-trap, 120. St. Paul, Minn. , and the Fur Trade, 281. STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, 273. Strychnine poisoning, 222. Sucker wire nooses, 41. Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, 247. Sun-glass, 234, 235, Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, 240. SWEET FENNEL. -- Oil used in trapping, 152, Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, 255. Swinging bed, 249. 

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Table knife and bowl trap, 135. Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, 282. Tallow, mutton, as ointment, 255. Tame Geese as decoys, 75. TANNING SKINS, 276. Mixtures, 276, 277, 278. With the hair on, 276. Simple, 278. Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, 255. Tar for water-proofing, 264. Tea, 236. " Red pepper, as a remedy, 257. Teal Ducks as food, 239. To cook. --See Duck. "Telescope" Drinking Cup, 231. Tempering iron spring, 84. TENTS, 246. House-tent, 246. Fly-tent, 247. Half-tent, 247. Shelter-tent, 247. Materials, 247. Water-proof preparation for, 247. Fire-proof preparation for, 247. To carpet with spruce, 250. To clear of gnats and musquitoes, 230. TENT CARPETING, 250. Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, 136. Tiger captured with bird lime, 35. Tiger trap, 31. Tinder, 234. Tip-ups, 240. Toaster, an extemporized, 233. TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, 269. Tools required on a trapping campaign, 227. Tools required for canoe building, 259. Torch for the head, used in night hunting, 218. "Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, 234. Trail. The. -- Its value to the trapper, 153. Various modes of making, 153. TRAP. -- Arrow, 23, 25. Barrel. 125, 127. Bird, 65, 70, 73, 75, 88, 90, 91, 96. Bow, 23, 25, 116. Bowl, 135. Box, 55, 56, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106, 109, 110. Brick, 66. Cage, 76, 134. Cob house, 67. Coon, 110, 116, 141. Coop, 33, 67, 70. Crow, 96. Dead-fall, 17, 107, 111. Decoy, 72, 76, 94. Double ender, 109. Down-fall, 26. Duck, 94, 95. Fish, 120. Fish hook, 95. Fly, 136. Fool's-cap, 96. Garotte, 114. Gun, 20. Harpoon, 26. Hawk, 42, 93. Hook, 95. Jar, 135. Mole, 119, 120. Mouse, 130, 131, 134, 135. Net, 70, 73, 75, 80, 83, 85. Owl, 88. Partridge, 43, etc. Pendent Box, 91. Pitfall, 11, 125, 127, 131. Ptarmigan, 75. Quail, 39, 40, 41, 53. Rabbit, 43, 64, 103. Rat, 43, 125, 127, 128, 131, 138. Rifle, 20. Self-setting, 110, 125, 127, 131. Sieve, 65. Spring net, 80, 83, 85. Steel, 140. The "Newhouse, " 140. Tree, 42, 91. Upright net, 85. Wild Duck, 94, 95. Wild Goose, 75. Woodchuck, 43. Trapper's beds and bedding, 248. " Cooking utensils, 230. " Diet, 230. TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, 255. " Shelter, 226, 242. " Sled. --See Toboggan. TRAPPING, art of, 148. Season for, 147. Miscellaneous hints on, 148. Campaign, plan of, 225. Tools and other requisites, 227. Ground, selection of, 225. Valuable suggestions on, 228. Trapping Lines, 226. Trap robbers, 220. Traps for large game, 17. [Page 300] FOR FEATHERED GAME, 65. HOUSEHOLD, 125. Tree hunting, 218. Tree snare, 42. " Traps, 42, 91. TRIANGLE SNARE, 42. Trout, to cook deliciously, 232. Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, 99. Tumbler fly-trap, 136. Twitch-up, 43, 62. Poacher's, 48. Portable, 50. "Simplest, " 52. 

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UPRIGHT NET TRAP, 85. " Snares 44, 58. Use and abuse of Alcohol, 257. Uses of fur skins, 285. Utensils for cooking, 230, 235. 

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Value of fur skins, table of, 262. Various uses of fur skins, 285. Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, 234. Vegetables for food on a campaign, 235. " Canned, 236. Venison as food, 233, 237. To roast, 233. To preserve, 237. "Jerked, " 237. Dried, 237. 

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Walking on the snow, 267. War in the fur trade, 281. Watch crystal as sun glass, 287. Water fowl as food, 239. Water-proof application for boats, 261, 264, 266. " Canvas bags, for food, 236. Match safe, 234. " Preparation, 236, 247, 266. " Varnish for matches, 234. Water traps, 110, 120. Wedge stretcher for skins, 274. Weighted harpoon trap, 26. Wheaten grits as trappers' food, 236. Wheat flour as food, 235. " Self-raising, 235. Wheel form of trapping lines, 229. Whiskey on a trapping campaign, 257. Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, 204. Whistlebird, 74. White Birch Canoe, 261. White-wood log for Dug-out, 259. Widgeon, the, as food, 239. To cook. --See Duck. WILD CAT:-- Nature and habits of, 167. Snares for, 43. Trapping the, 166. Skinning the, 168. Uses of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. Wild Duck, to cook, 233. Wild Duck, traps, 94, 95. Wild Goose as food, 239. Wild Goose to cook, 233. Wild Goose trap, 75. Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, 217. Winged vermin, 255. Winter fishing, 240. Wire cage trap for birds, 76. " " For mice, 134. Wire nooses, 41. WOLF. -- Nature and habits of, 158. Trapping the, 158. Poisoning the, 222. Traps for, 20, 141. To protect provisions from, 237. Varieties of, 158. Directions for skinning, 161. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. WOLVERINE:-- Nature and habits of, 199, 238. Trapping the, 199. Natural enemy to the Beaver, 200. Directions for skinning, 201. Use of skin, 286. Value of skin, 284. WOODCHUCK, 204. As food, 238. Nature and habits of, 204. Snare, 205. Trapping the, 204. Use of skin, 204. Smoked from its burrow, 205. Removing skin of, 205. Woodcock, to cook, 233. Wood Duck as food, 239. To cook. --See Duck. Woodland beds and bedding, 249. Wounds, ointment for, 255.