BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK. CONSISTING OF DESCRIPTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS, ILLUSTRATED BY SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS, OF TATTING PATTERNS. CROCHET PATTERNS. KNITTING PATTERNS. NETTING PATTERNS. EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. POINT LACE PATTERNS. GUIPURE D'ART. BERLIN WORK. MONOGRAMS. INITIALS AND NAMES. PILLOW LACE, AND LACE STITCHES. _Every Pattern and Stitch Described and Engraved with the utmostAccuracy, and the Exact Quantity of Material requisite for each Patternstated. _ CHANCELLOR PRESS _Beeton's Book of Needlework_ was originally published in Great Britainin 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler. This facsimile edition published in Great Britain in 1986 by Chancellor Press 59 Grosvenor Street London W 1 Printed in Czechoslovakia 50617 SAMUEL BUTLER'S PREFACE The Art of Needlework dates from the earliest record of the world'shistory, and has, also, from time immemorial been the support, comfort, or employment of women of every rank and age. Day by day, it increasesits votaries, who enlarge and develop its various branches, so that anyaddition and assistance in teaching or learning Needlework will bewelcomed by the Daughters of England, "wise of heart, " who workdiligently with their hands. The recent introduction of Point Lace has brought a finer, and, apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour. Ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns beforethem, to reproduce Antique laces; for care and patience, with aknowledge of Point Lace stitches, are alone required to perfect thebeautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens of exquisite OldLace, constitute the chief glory of women's refined industry in pastcenturies. INSTRUCTIONS in TATTING, in EMBROIDERY, in CROCHET, in KNITTING andNETTING, in BERLIN WOOL WORK, in POINT LACE, and GUIPURE D'ART areprefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of needlework. The whole work is interspersed with coloured and other Patterns in PointLace, Guipure d'Art, Tatting, Embroidery, and Designs for Monograms andInitials for marking handkerchiefs and table-linen. The quantity ofmaterials required for each class of work is also given with everypattern. The idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions in fancyneedlework with useful patterns was conceived some years ago by onewhose life was devoted to the inculcation of the practical duties ofwoman's life, and to assisting her sex in their daily work of HOUSEHOLDMANAGEMENT and REFINEMENT. Her great wish was that her BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK should be as valuable inits way to her Countrywomen as her work upon Household Management wasuseful in showing the best mode of providing for the diurnal wants offamilies. Other hands have brought to a conclusion her original plans. The best attainable workers have contributed to this volume. Only thosewho knew the extent of the late Mrs. Beeton's design, will miss, in thepages now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand. " S. O. B. _Paternoster Row, _ 1870. CONTENTS. TATTING INSTRUCTIONS TATTING PATTERNS EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS EMBROIDERY PATTERNS CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS CROCHET PATTERNS KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS NETTING INSTRUCTIONS KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS ALPHABETS FOR MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS POINT LACE WORK POINT LACE INSTRUCTIONS POINT LACE PATTERNS INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS TATTING. TATTING INSTRUCTIONS [Illustration: Tatting Shuttle. ] The needlework called Tatting in England, _Frivolité_ in French, and_Frivolitäten_ in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, tohave been in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity hasdiscovered some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, whichwas, indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. ToMrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished _artistes_ in all mattersconnected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the introduction ofthe plan of working from the reel instead of the shuttle. By thisalteration the advantage of the shuttle being constantly kept filledwith cotton was gained, and the necessity also obviated for frequentlyjoining the thread; and to Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in alldetails appertaining to the employment of the needle, ladies areindebted for an arrangement by which the same thread used in the makingof the pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan onlyprovided for the working of the different portions which constituted thepattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a needleand thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also given muchattention of late to the art of tatting, and our instructions nowprinted comprise what we consider the best mode of learning and doingthis exceedingly interesting and fashionable work. [Illustration: Tatting Pin. ] Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of stitchesforming _knots_. It is intended as an imitation of point lace, and isespecially used for trimming under-linen, on account of its strength. To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called a_shuttle_. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat on one sideand convex on the other, and is made of wood or ivory. The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece. Theillustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These shuttles aremade in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl, and silver; theyare also manufactured in coloured bone, black, red, and white. The bestto work with are the pearl for a white shuttle, and the inlaidtortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the prices vary from sixpence to oneshilling and two-and-sixpence each. In selecting a shuttle be careful tosee that the ends close, as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, whichis very inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound roundthis shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to thestyle of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton, because itis stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is manufactured by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. For the purpose. Their Boar's Head Cotton is alsofrequently used, and answers very well. _Shuttles. _ These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium size;No. 3, the largest. _The Way to Hold the Hands. _ Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second finger, and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the under partof the shuttle _between_ the second and third and _on_ the middlefinger. Place the thread round the three middle fingers of the lefthand, so as to form a loop, keeping the second and third fingers alittle apart, and bring the cotton again between the thumb andforefinger, letting the end fall within the palm of the hand, while theend of cotton which holds on to the shuttle passes over the thumb-nail. _To Make a Stitch. _ Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle at theback, through the loop--that is, between the second and third fingers. Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the loop between theforefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton verytightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn through the loop, this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on thecontrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. It should divide the loopinto two parts. After this withdraw the second left-hand finger, whichis _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as todraw up the loop. A _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightenedby being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. Forthe remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position, but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cottonover the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the secondand third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again atthe back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second fingerfrom the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep overthe fingers. When this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of theleft hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _onestitch_. _The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting. _ When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in theloop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last, and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches should beheld tightly between the forefinger and thumb. _The Way to Make a Purl. _ A _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting, as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertionNo. 2. The following is the easiest method of making a purl:--Thestitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purlis to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. Thisspace is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; thenthe small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches, and forms the purl. If several are required a small space is leftbetween every two or three stitches, according to the desired number. Care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left beall of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The purlcan also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread take thetatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in theleft hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row ofstitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pinbefore making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at onceclose to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above thestitches. Do not take out the pin before all the purl and all thestitches are completed and joined together. _Joining the Work. _ Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with thehook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand throughit--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close tothe stitches. A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work, and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight thread weshould be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to executeany designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. To use thisstraight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of differentcolours. Sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reelinstead of using the second shuttle. In commencing a loop the straightthread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand, about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual inthe right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon thefoundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle. * * * * * TATTING. 1. --_Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting. _ [Illustration: I. --Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting. ] Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 80, ortatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small shuttle. This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as follows:--1stcircle: 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 2nd circle: 3 double, join it to the last purl of the 1st circle, 1double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up. 3rd circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 2nd circle, 1double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8times, 2 double, draw the cotton up. 4th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw the cotton up. 5th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th circle, 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton. 6th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 5th circle, 1double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding circle, 1 double, 1purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first purl of the 1st circle, 2double, draw up the cotton. This completes the star pattern in centre ofpine. 1st circle of pine: 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times, 2 double, drawup the cotton. 2nd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd purl of centre star. 3rd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd circle, 1 double, 1purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it on to the centrepurl of 2nd circle in star. 4th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd circle, 1 double, 1purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join itto the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in star. 5th circle: 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl of 4th circle, 1double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton, repeat the 5thcircle twice more, then join the cotton to the centre purl of 4th circlein star. 8th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th circle, 1 purl, 1double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the centrepurl of 5th circle in star. 9th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th circle, 1 double, 1purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. Repeat the 9th circle 3times. 13th circle: 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl of the 12thcircle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the cotton, turn thework downwards, and work the 14th circle: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the 1st purl of the1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd purl of first pinecircle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 15th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 13th circle, 1double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton. 16th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th circle, 1double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw up the cotton. 17th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 16th circle, 1double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 18th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 17th circle, 1double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the cotton, and repeat fromcommencement until the collar is the required size. The upper part ofthe pines is filled in with lace stitches, as clearly shown in ourillustration. * * * * * 2. --_Tatted Insertion. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 30, orBoar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large shuttle. [Illustration: 2. --Tatted Insertion. ] This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up the cotton, turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the same as thatabove described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of cotton between eachcircle. * * * * * 3. --_Lace Edging in Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 10, ortatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a fineredging, No. 18. 1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as adouble thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1purl, 10 double; draw up. Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the lefthand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. [Illustration: 3. --Lace Edging in Tatting. ] 2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10 double; draw up. The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that thenext oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1 double intothe purl in double thread. Repeat. * * * * * 4. --_Lace Edging in Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 10, ortatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a fineredging, No. 18. [Illustration: 4. --Lace Edging in Tatting. ] 1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as adouble thread is required, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1purl, 10 double stitches, draw up. 2nd oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl, 10 double; drawup. Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the lefthand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double; then join the shuttle-thread tothe purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it through with a pin. Then do anothersimilar chain of stitches with the double thread, viz. , 4 double, 1purl, 12 double. 3rd oval: 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the same as that towhich the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10 double; draw up. 4th oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that thenext oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, 6 chain, 1double into the next purl. Repeat. * * * * * 5. --_Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 60, orcrochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle. [Illustration: 5. --Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging. ] Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled stitch and1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to form an oval, and for thesmaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but leave, before beginning thefirst double stitch, the space of one-sixth of an inch between this ovaland the preceding; repeat from *, leaving the same space between eachoval; join together the larger ovals by the purl. For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following manner:-- 1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The 2nd and3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one above theother, and divided by one chain. While working the short treble stitchesof the 3rd row form the small purl thus:-- * 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let theloop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the understitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work 1 double inthe first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under which miss 1stitch, and repeat from *. * * * * * 6. --_Border in Tatting with Crochet. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20, ortatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size use Boar'sHead cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20. [Illustration: 6. --Border in Tatting with Crochet. ] 4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight, leave a spaceabout one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space between this oval andthe next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them to the nearest purl ofpreceding oval, then work twice following 4 double stitches, 1 purl, then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double stitches, and draw up the oval * * * * * 7. --_Tatted Insertion. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 18; tatting-pin No. 3. This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and consists ofa row of circles, two of which are always joined together, and edged oneither side with chain stitches. Work first * 2 double, 4 purl dividedby 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about one-fifth of an inch long, 10double divided by 1 purl, 1 long purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1purl, then 2 double; join the stitches into a circle; work close to thisa second circle, and knot the end of the cotton together with the cottonwith which the first circle has been begun; repeat from *, buthenceforward in the first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to themiddle purl of the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl. When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either sidewith a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl and 5chain between. [Illustration: 7. --Tatted Insertion. ] * * * * * 8. --_Rosette in Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40;tatting-pin No. 3. This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz. , 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, 5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the work downwards, 10 double, fastened on the last purl turned downwards; this forms oneloop turned upwards; turn work downwards, 10 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on first purl turned downwards; turn figure thus formeddownwards; 4 double, 1 single, repeat 4 times more from *, joining thefigures by means of the purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knottedtogether. [Illustration: 8. --Rosette in Tatting. ] * * * * * 9. --_Star in Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 9. --Star in Tatting. ] Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1 purl and1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to the 1st purlloop. 1st oval. --Commence a loop close to the joining, work 7 double, join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw close; reverse thework. Join the thread from reel, and holding it out for a straightthread, commence the scallop:-- 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same asfirst. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is completed. * * * * * 10. --_Insertion worked in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 10. --Insertion worked in Tatting. ] This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with the cottonin the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends of cotton arefastened together at the beginning by a knot. First work one half of theinsertion the long way in the following manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1plain (the purl must be very short); turn the purl downwards, 6 double, 1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, which must all be turned upwards;then turn the work so that the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6double, fastened on to the last purl turned downwards (the fastening ofthe stitches is made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turnedupwards is thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton inright hand underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6double, all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turneddownwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed;turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, turnwork downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last pattern, turnedup. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of sufficient length, work theother half in same manner, and fasten it on the 1st half by means ofpurl stitches between the 8 double stitches twice repeated. * * * * * 11. --_Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40, orcrochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 11. --Tatted Insertion. ] This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns which lieopposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of knots. Acoloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which join thepatterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of 9 double, 1purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another. When the 3rd branchis completed, fasten another piece of cotton on to the middle branch. Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton, and then work without the2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched pattern like the 1st. * Fastenthe 2nd piece of cotton on to the middle branch of the just-finishedpattern, work 12 double over it, then again a three-branched pattern;in this pattern as well as in the following ones, instead of working thepurl of the 1st branch, fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch ofthe preceding three-branched pattern of the _same_ row, as can be seenin illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficientlylong. * * * * * 12. --_Circle in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 80;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 12. --Circle in Tatting. ] Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl dividedone from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovalsare joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle istightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are workingis twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton isthen fastened off nearly underneath. Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which shouldbe fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purlin the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl whichjoins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of aboutone-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. A verylittle farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 doublestitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to thecentre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between asbefore, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is _missed_, because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of thecorresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch, and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tiedtightly together. * * * * * 13. --_Tatted Border with Beads_. Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. WalterEvans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks ofbeads No. 4 to the yard of border. [Illustration: 13. --Tatted Border with Beads. ] This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size pursesilk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Beforebeginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place ofpurl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches. When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoilleaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. Thesetrefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together. * * * * * 14. --_Insertion in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 10;tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or20. [Illustration: 14. --Insertion in Tatting. ] 1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as adouble thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1purl, 10 double, draw up. Double thread: Putting the thread attached tothe reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off. For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion, the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working-- 1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first andsecond ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Doublethread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the oneconnecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl whichconnects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on. Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl ofdouble thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes apretty wide edging. * * * * * 15. --_Border in Tatting and Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40, andcrochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 15. --Border in Tatting and Crochet. ] This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops andtreble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make acircle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle isrepeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only insteadof the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the lastpurl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which mustbe finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of doublestitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitchesdepends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches roundthe circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists oftreble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two followingrows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles arejoined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2double stitches. 2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double, 1 double. * * * * * 16 _and_ 17. --_Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting_. [Illustration: 16. --Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting. ] This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of thebonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of blacksilk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked inappliqué over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace madewith the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, seeNos. 18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon thebonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out. * * * * * 18 _and_ 19. --_Patterns in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 120 for awhite veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 17. --Shape of Veil. ] [Illustration: 18. --Tatting Pattern for Veil (16). ] [Illustration: 19--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16). ] The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16. They are sewn upon the net at regular distances. For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join thestitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spotor Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttledownwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work acircle as follows:--8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silkon to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk isfastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they arefastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1stpurl. Fasten off the silk after the last circle. For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into acircle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut offthe ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller circle, consisting of8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten thecotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. Theends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way. Then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches intoa circle. Then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close finestitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completedpattern is sewn upon the net. * * * * * 20 _and_ 21. --_Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting, for Trimming LinenCollars, Cuffs, &c_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No 30;tatting-pin No. 3. 20. --DIAMOND PATTERN. --Work, not far one from the other, four leaves, each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one fromthe other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of making the1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the lastleaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a freshcircle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 moredouble stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the fourleaves, and work a very small circle thus:--2 double stitches, fastenthe cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of theleaf; work a larger circle thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purlof the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 doublestitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to thesecond purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar tothat above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the secondleaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * threetimes more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you areworking (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last smallcircle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton. [Illustration: 20. --Diamond in Tatting. ] [Illustration: 21. --Circle in Tatting. ] * * * * * 21. --CIRCLE. --Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl, rather long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After youhave fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circlecomposed of 3 double stitches, 1 long purl, 3 double stitches; fastenthe cotton not far off to the first purl of the circle, and repeat from* 7 times more, at regular distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, andbegin * a fresh circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purlof the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 doublestitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches;fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle, and repeat from* 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of the next largecircle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the small circle. * * * * * 22. --_Border in Tatting and Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 20;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 22. --Border in Tatting and Crochet. ] Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of * 3double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle at ashort distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double;close to this circle another as follows:--5 double, fastened on to thelast purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1purl, 5 double; a third circle as follows:--5 double fastened on to thelast purl of the preceding circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on tothe second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turneddownwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are joinedtogether are turned downwards. Work another small circle as follows atthe distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an inch, and repeat from* till the lace is long enough; but in working the following figures, consisting of three circles, the 1st circle must be fastened on to thelast purl of the 3rd circle at the place of the 1st purl. Complete thetatting with the 2 following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in thepurl of one of the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitchin the next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1double in every stitch. * * * * * 23. --_Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 80;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 23. --Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch. ] This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked withfine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It consists of 2 rowsof 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are workedseparately and then joined into a row. Work 9 times as follows:--2double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a circle and * work at a shortdistance a 2nd circle as follows:--2 double fastened on to the last purlof the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once morefrom *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on thewrong side. One figure is thus completed; each following figure isfastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (seeillustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have beenworked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten fromillustration each middle circle of one figure on to the correspondingcircle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace stitch are workedwhen the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty placesbetween 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on theside of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl ofthe next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join thestitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep theirnatural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on thewrong side. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with finecrochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel. * * * * * 24. --_Insertion in Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 30;tatting-pin No. 3. Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, eachcomposed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals areworked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle andunited in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joinedtogether with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on eitherside in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration. [Illustration: 24. --Insertion in Tatting. ] * * * * * 25. --_Centre of a Tatted Couvrette_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 20, orcrochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2. This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size, and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern maybe joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette. The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fastenthe end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginningclose to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1stshuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at theplace of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately tillyou have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly thecotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which isclosed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first andlast circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked areknotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle onthe middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round, take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, onlywork 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must befastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of thepreceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the samemanner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrettequite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten thecotton well after each round. [Illustration: 25. --Centre of a Tatted Couvrette. ] * * * * * 26. --_Tatted Lace_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 30;tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 26. --Tatted Lace. ] This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they wereslightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallopconsists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purledstitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st andlast stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similarscallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallopsfasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of workingthe 1st purl. * * * * * 27. --_Tatted Lace_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50 or 80;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 27. --Tatted Lace. ] This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in theright hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten thecotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the samerow, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 doubledivided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the nextpurl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. *Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turneddownwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is thestraight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scalloplike the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the firstrow on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, withthe cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is longenough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten thecotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the rowis turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing thecotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form aloop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw upthe latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on tothe short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outerscallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cottonover which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends togetheragain, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallopsupwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purlwhich is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under thenext loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed. * * * * * 28. --_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40;tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's French embroiderycotton No. 60; square netting. [Illustration: 28. --Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting] The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over amesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamentedround the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip ofnetting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwardsand forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last rowhas 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work withthe same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row anddecreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficientlylong, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and formthe side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each, cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch onthe needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thickcotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning iscompleted work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double, draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inchbetween the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a shortdistance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to thepreceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of doubleovercast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; workthis row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar onthe grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work alsoa row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar alittle if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to therow of overcast stitches. * * * * * 29. --_Mignardise and Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40; finemignardise braid. [Illustration: 29. --Mignardise and Tatting. ] Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, andlook very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the followingprocess:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to oneside of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of aninch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a shortdistance from the first, and so on. When the strip of insertion issufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of themignardise. This kind of work is destined to become very popular, andnothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise andtatting. * * * * * 30. --_Linen Bag for Cotton_. Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'statting cotton No. 40. [Illustration: 30. --Linen Bag for Cotton. ] The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton forworking a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inchesacross, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. It isdrawn together at top. * * * * * 31. --_Tatting Insertion_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's cotton No. 30. The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two similarhalves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work asecond similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead ofthe 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-workedcircle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the tworounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. Then tat round thepieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttlealternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceedingas in the common button-hole stitch. When the first half is completed, work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with thepurl. [Illustration: 31. --Tatting Insertion. ] * * * * * 32. --_Tatting Insertion_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's cotton No. 30. [Illustration: 32. --Tatting Insertion. ] The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32 isobtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as follows:--Join 9double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *. After an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure ofthe pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton throughthe last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purlof the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up. After an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle:4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. Repeat the patternfor the length of insertion required. The threads which join the smallcircles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above, only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width ofa straw, so as to imitate a long purl. Complete the insertion fromillustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on theother side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw thecotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which jointhe 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of thelarge figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like theopposite outer edge. * * * * * 33. --_Tatted Square or Diamond_. Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tattingcotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys, tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tattingcotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2. The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Eachpattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branchconsists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of onepattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both endstogether so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a secondpattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of thefirst pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern, which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration. [Illustration: 33. --Tatted Square. ] *For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl ofthe first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purlof the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a shortdistance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving aninterval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fastenthe cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twicemore from *, and continue to repeat from *. * * * * * 34. --_Tatted Rosette_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40, orcrochet cotton No. 60. [Illustration: 34. --Tatted Rosette. ] This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked withvery fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work onecircle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch. Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 smallcircle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton onto the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round:Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of thepreceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distanceon to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, andrepeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off. * * * * * 35. --_Rosette in Tatting_. [Illustration: 35. --Rosette in Tatting. ] Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40;tatting-pin No. 3. Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 timesalternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circleand fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton onthis shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain, fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which iscompleted, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of theshuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to apurl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the secondround, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at thesame distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cottonneatly. * * * * * 36. --_Diamond in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40;tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 36. --Diamond in Tatting. ] This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c. , when workedwith fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, asfollows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join thestitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second oneconsisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circleconsisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the precedingcircle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a secondshuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle, throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in theright hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with thecotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cottonon the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double, then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of thecircle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 doubleworked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttlesform a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns havebeen worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf isfastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then workfirst 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the cornerpatterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one cornerpattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the correspondingpurl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, jointhe stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl towhich the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to thenext purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three morecircles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle, at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purlof the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other sideof the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the oppositedirection are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed, draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the otherside of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together. * * * * * 37. --_Tatting for Cap Crown_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 100;tatting-pin No. 1. [Illustration: 37. --Tatting for Cap Crown. ] This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the onedescribed on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The sizeof the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. Thepattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists ofeight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosetteis worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other, consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of thecotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joinsthe rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joinedtogether by means of the purl stitches. * * * * * 38 _and_ 39. --_Cap in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 100tatting-pin No. 1. [Illustration: 38. --Cap in Tatting. ] This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged allround with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The capis trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrowvelvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace, as can be seen in illustration. [Illustration: 39--Border for Cap No. 38. ] * * * * * No. 39. --Border for Cap. --The upper part of the border consists of 4rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch fromeach other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purldivided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle isfastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, insteadof working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last rowmust only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number ofsix-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the 1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed asfollows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitchfastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the laceso that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to thepurl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purldivided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of thenext branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double;fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to theend of the lace. * * * * * 40. --_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50;tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60. [Illustration: 40. --Lace in Tatting and Crochet. ] The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of thetatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles mustbe drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purldivided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl 5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, butinstead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of thepreceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from* till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet. Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top tojoin the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and lastpurl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficientnumber of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the twopieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that thetop of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd rowconsists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitchesdivided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches ofthe circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1stcircle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble onlyso far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble iscompleted cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 trebledivided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which arecast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with whichyou must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops workedround the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitchof every pattern. * * * * * 41. --_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40; crochetcotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 41. --Insertion in Tatting and Crochet. ] Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cottonon one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the followingmanner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double dividedby a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purlmust be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch;4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inchlong; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long. Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before workingthe 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purlof the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and thepurl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom ofthe tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in themiddle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2ndrow. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of thepreceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches inevery other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves areworked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of apattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitchesbetween the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton. * * * * * 42. --_Purse in Tatting and Beads_. Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glacé silk; a steelclasp with chain. This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads arethreaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece ofthe same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circlein the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purlof this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered withsix beads, which must be drawn up close together before working thepurl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle byknotting together the two ends of the silk. 2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double, draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of themiddle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 shortpurl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into acircle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silkbelonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circleand repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on thenext purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastenedon to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening thepiece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in thelarger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the pieceof silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, sothat it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round, the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off. [Illustration: 42. --Purse in Tatting and Beads. ] 3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; jointhe stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of thejust-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead aftereach; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, thenfasten the ends. When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glacésilk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. Around of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st ofthese circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purlwith 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circleat a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead aftereach, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till asufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not workedin the last circle. * * * * * 43. --_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40; crochetcotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 43. --Insertion in Tatting and Crochet. ] This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six leavesforming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double, 4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in themanner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel. The flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, II purl, separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled upwith button-hole stitches in fine cotton. To form the circle in thecentre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins theleaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and thecircles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than theothers, and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border oneach side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen inthe illustration. * * * * * 44. --_Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 20 and 40. [Illustration: 44. --Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch. ] This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not onlyentirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of verydifferent sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of circlestwo-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd tothe 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting atone-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten thecotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at thesame distance again, and repeat from *. The cotton is fastened on thecircles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as toform a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep thedistance between 2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on eachcircle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then workthe lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small spot calleda _Josephine knot_ (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw thecotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and drawup the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rdrow, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches ofsingle tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purldivided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plaintatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides comeopposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 nextcircles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 doublefastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purldivided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plainstitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to thecorresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, theborder is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed byworking 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1strow, with 5 chain stitches between. 2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after everytreble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard oroil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as isseen in illustration. * * * * * 45. --_Tatted Rosette. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 30 forlarge rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3. This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps, handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and thenfastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be workedclose to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knotthe beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of thesmallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, thecircles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largestround 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one toanother as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purlsof this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of therosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, andwork a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 timesmore from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten thecotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the precedinground, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1 [Illustration: 45. --Tatted Rosette. ] purl, then 4 double. Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl onwhich the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which allthe scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to thelast purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle ofthe preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; butin working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on tothe last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern issewn on. * * * * * 46. --_Linen Bag for Tatting, &c. _ Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 46. --Linen Bag for Tatting, &c. ] This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from beingsoiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top. Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The originalpattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round thetop, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large andsmall circles. * * * * * 47. --_Tatted Border. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40;tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 47. --Tatted Border. ] Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the followingmanner:-- 1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double;draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a veryshort distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of workingthe first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the precedingone; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer thanthat in the middle. For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side withthe cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in theright hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger ofthe left hand. Then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circleconsisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let thecotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop roundthe left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Thentake up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middlepurl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through thepurl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand throughthis loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl ofthe next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined onthe middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *. The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in thefollowing manner:-- 1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st rowof tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *. 2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding rowunder it; repeat from *. * * * * * 48. --_Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting. _ Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cottonNo. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes, crochet cotton No. 4. This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimmingfor articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used forthe former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of therosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point deminute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-holestitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles withcrochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consistingof a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten thebutton-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circlesfasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochetcircle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitchbetween 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double, ; join thesestitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side liesupwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consistingof 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeatfrom *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treblestitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above oneanother at the place of the 1st purl. [Illustration: 48. --Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting. ] * * * * * 49--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60;tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 49. --Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting. ] The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced inthe centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 moredouble stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leafby working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (This small leaf forms oneof the corners of the diamond pattern. ) Fasten the cotton to the fourthpurl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar tothe preceding. Join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two lastpurl of the corner leaf (see illustration). After two more similarleaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the samemanner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, and cut the cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of thecollar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sewthem neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Makealternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joinedtogether by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles intatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round thecollar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always workedseparately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eightouter leaves. The upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. It iscomposed of two rows--one formed of chain stitches, and a few slipstitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other workedin open treble crochet. * * * * * 50. --_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 100;tatting-pin No. 3. This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 incheswide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are ornamented withpatterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No. 100. A rosette intatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. The end ofthe cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the samematerial as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace. Begin the rosettein the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:--1 double, 1purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeatfrom * to * once more, 2 double. At the beginning of the 2nd roundfasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and [Illustration: 50. --Cravat in Muslin and Tatting. ] work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle likethe preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circlesconsisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten thecotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to thenext purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastenedon to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off thecotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in thefollowing manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5 double fastened on to the lastpurl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened onto the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearestpurl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot thebeginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, therosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches, taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneaththe rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath thebutton-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of aninch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle, and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles inovercast stitch. * * * * * 51--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 100;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 51. --Cravat in Muslin and Tatting. ] The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or _médaillon_ intatting. This rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette inillustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round eachof the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosetteconsists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastenedon to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circleas follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purlof the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl ofthe preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which thecotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeatfrom * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round:* Fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1stcircle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, onlyinstead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purlof the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the precedinground; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton isfastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, andthen on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of themedallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the cravatwith button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration. * * * * * 52. --_Border in Crochet and Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 26. This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, whichare joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow [Illustration: 52. --Border in Crochet and Tatting. ] border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the borderforms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun inthe centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passingthe thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttleupwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, workat a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through thepurl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only eachfollowing circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circleafter 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the threadmust be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms thecentre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread areknotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loopwith 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient numberof such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin thecrochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chainof 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitchbut one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on theother side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leafwith a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitchof the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working thislast round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up thepurl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding doublestitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circlesand leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double isworked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row ofchain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows oftreble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirelyin chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of theloops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastenedon the border, as seen in illustration. * * * * * 53. --_Diamond in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 10;tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle. [Illustration: 53. --Diamond in Tatting. ] 1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as adouble thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up. Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the lefthand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly. 2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked. 3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join tonext purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, drawup. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 7 single stitches. 7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up. Double thread: 7 single stitches. 8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 12 single stitches. 12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join tonext purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purlof 1st oval, 4 double, draw up. Double thread: 7 single stitches. Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at theback of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other. The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework, using fine sewing-cotton. Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming forthe skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds. * * * * * 54. --_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 100, tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord. This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a veryeffective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working foreach of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from theother by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the thirdleaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead ofthe cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, overwhich work with the cotton from the reel the following row ofstitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of oneof the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from theother by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to thecentre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided onefrom the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to thesame purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cutthe cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, eachcomposed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these formone of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one fromthe other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastenedto one purl of the row of [Illustration: 54. --Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting. ] stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from thecollar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, foldin the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up thespace with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circlecomposed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more andwork over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composedof 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 doublestitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work overit 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 doublestitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last)of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened tothe fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (seeillustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 doublestitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, 3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten thecotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border acrochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No. 49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, seeillustration No. 54. * * * * * 55. --_Tatted Collar_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 100;tatting-pin No. 1. This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of fourbranched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on toone another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns areworked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similarleaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of [Illustration: 55. --Tatted Collar. ] working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purlof the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knotboth ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similarpatterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of thepreceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the lastbranch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined bythe above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, byfastening these circles from illustration between four branchedpatterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to thecorresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till thecircle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lacestitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-holestitches. * * * * * 56. --_Tatted Collar_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 60;tatting-pin No. 3. This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in thefollowing manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cottoninto a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of thefirst circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of thecentre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining eachcircle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of thepreceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, drawthe cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circlesdescribed in 2nd oval. [Illustration: 56. --Tatted Collar. ] * * * * * 57. --_Circle in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50;tatting-pin No. 2. [Illustration: 57. --Circle in Tatting. ] This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty forornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It iscommenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, drawthe cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double, * 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up thecotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle. The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches. * * * * * 58. --_Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50 forcravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats;tatting-pin No. 2 or 3. This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars, pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c. , according to the size of thecotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles whichincloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin withthe smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Thenwork at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, onlywork 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl, fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all theother circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The nextcircle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like thepreceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double insteadof 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece ofcotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longerbetween the larger circles. Then work a circle [Illustration: 58. --Tatting Medallion. ] as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 doubleinstead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton, 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two followingcircles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15. Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double, 17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles morelike the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms themiddle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the roundcloses with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cottontogether, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work roundthis row of circles another round, the circles of which must be ofgraduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on tothe middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and workone circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of thenext circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner, only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like thecircles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing thenumber of purl, instead of working the first purl of every followingcircle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When theround is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In thecentre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduatedsize, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patternswork first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 timesalternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must beclose to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, befastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton isthen fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end ofthe same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning andthe end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are workedin the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; butthe separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. Inthe largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circlesconsist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the otherpatterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins theselast together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so asto imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastenedin the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seenin the illustration. * * * * * 59. --_Tatted Diamond_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 40, or 80if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond. ] This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with finetatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a shortdistance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened onto the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened onto the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turnthe work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave aninterval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three timesmore from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration. Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-holestitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown inillustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of thediamond are knotted together. * * * * * 60. --_Tatted Cravat End_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50;tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles. This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tattedmedallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting finecotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form thecentre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges therosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton ofboth shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consistingof 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close tothis circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with theother shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of thescallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close tothe just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which isjoined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 timesmore from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton onto the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the placewhere the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of therosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton onthe 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton havebeen fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl ofthe next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 doublefastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the [Illustration: 60. --Tatted Cravat End. ] preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is nowcompleted. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only withoutthe second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves asfollows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked asfollows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttleonly 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cottonon the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop ofthe border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallopanother circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the firstcircle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scalloplike the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only thescallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few doublestitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the lastscallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cutthem off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only thecircles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to thecircles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this halfare somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Thecompleted border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; thedifferent pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must bewound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. Themedallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remainingborder is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row ofknots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop ofthe border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches betweentwo purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the laceknot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circleconsisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and makeanother circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it hasbeen joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen inillustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over thecotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, andrepeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin. * * * * * 61. --_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 60, or No. 40 if desired in a larger size. [Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery. ] This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. It isworked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with atatted lace. For the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 5 double. At a short distance from this circle work a smaller one, consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle, 5 double. Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from* 11 times more. But in working the large circles, instead of workingthe 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on whichthe small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last(12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to thesame purl. The lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round theoutside of the rosette with button-hole stitches. * * * * * 62. --_Cravat End in Tatting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 60;tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 62. --Cravat End in Tatting. ] The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first the middlerow of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the leftside of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle ofthe middle row. It consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 smallpurl, then 3 double. Work close to this circle, which must be turneddownwards, a Josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then acircle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 timesalternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double. *Turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, workclose to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephineknot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, butinstead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl ofthe preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so that thecircles of the side row are turned downwards, work a Josephine knot, 1circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1Josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the siderow. Repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. The last circleof the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row. Then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circleof the middle row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles ofthe side row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl ofthe last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Thencontinue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a rowof circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same timewith those of the middle row. The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is seen inillustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat are fastenedlike those of the first-described end. The cravat is edged all roundwith a row of circles with Josephine knots worked exactly like those ofthe preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in theillustration. * * * * * 63. --_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 60, or 40if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3. [Illustration: 63. --Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery. ] The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edgedround with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which isworked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a small circleconsisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-holestitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Then turnthe just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a shortdistance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 Josephine knotconsisting of 7 plain. Then turn the work again, so that the last largecircle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the largeand small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen inillustration. The fastening of the small circles on to the centre islikewise done from the illustration. 64. --_Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's tatting cotton No. 50;tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No. 80. [Illustration: 64. --Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting. ] The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting, edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat. But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will lookvery pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting, and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linenstitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread. The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inchround. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, andthe cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitchesof the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton. Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circleconsisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the groundwhere it was first fastened; #work a second circle like thefirst, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the lastpurl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the samestitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consistingof 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same nettedstitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from#, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that thesquare is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from theillustration. * * * * * 65. --_Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages_ 574-5. ) Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 30, ortatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton No. 20;tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle. The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole ofthe rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter, with thefive-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the followinground of circles:--*Work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then ata short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however, instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to thelast purl of the preceding circle. Then work at a short distance thefirst leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1purl, 4 double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a shortdistance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of thefive-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to thepurl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl formsthe centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one toeach other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the scallopsround the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purlwhich joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work onescallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette is completed, workeight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle fromillustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then jointhem on to the middle rosette. The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves asfollows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rowsof circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largestcircles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle likethe first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at theplace of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding smallcircle. A short distance from this work again one of the larger circlesjust described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle;then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smallercircles. The first half of the strip of insertion is completed; thesecond outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles musthere be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always befastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as wasdone for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each ofthe large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1purl, then 4 double. When eight similar patterns have been worked, jointhem into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; thiscircle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. Thesmall rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easilyworked from illustration. The completed patterns are joined together inthe course of the work. * * * * * TATTING COTTON Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. , of Derby, in all sizes from20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some Tatters, is soldin all sizes from to 120. The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of eithertatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels containing 100yards:-- |--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|| | Tatting. | Crochet. ||--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|| Petticoat Edgings and | | || Insertions | 20 | 0 and 12 || Night Dress Trimmings | 40 | 60 || Lingerie Trimming | 50 | 70 || Collars and Cravats | 50 | 70 || Pocket Handkerchiefs | 100 | 120 || Parasol Covers | 100 | 120 || Antimacassars | 20, 30 | 0 and 20 || Pincushions | 60 | 80 || Caps | 100 | 120 || Lace | 60, 80, 100 | 80, 100, 120 || Insertions | 20, 40, 80 | 40, 80, 100 ||--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad to havesome guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work. The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker isfound to be two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle; threeyards to the square inch with two shuttles. * * * * * EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS. The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric, piqué, &c. , is very easy to learn by strictly attending to the followinginstructions. The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of thematerial on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long, andthe cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroiderycotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over anything, because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each stitch shows, and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes; but for those thatare learning we should advise them to tack the material to beembroidered upon a piece of _toile cirée_. If you work without this, place the material straight over the forefinger of the left hand; thematerial must never be held slantways. The three other fingers of theleft hand hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the rightposition to each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so thatthe outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. Forthe sake of greater clearness one part of the following illustrations isgiven in larger size than nature. Preparing the patterns is one of themost important things in embroidery, for the shape of the patterns isoften spoiled merely because they have not been prepared with sufficientcare. [Illustration: 66. --Scallop. ] ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker cotton thanthat with which you work; never commence with a knot, and do not take athread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches. The outlines of thescallops are first traced with short straight stitches. In the cornersparticularly the stitches must be short. The space between the outlinesis filled with chain stitches, as can be seen from illustration; theymust not be too long, otherwise the embroidery will look coarse. It isin this way that every pattern to be worked in button-hole or satinstitch is to be prepared. [Illustration: 67. --Double Overcast Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole stitchin a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to work fromleft to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches, hold it with thethumb of the left hand under the outline, insert the needle downwardsabove the outline, draw it out under the same above the cotton which youhold in the left hand, and draw it up. Repeat for all the stitches inthe same manner; they must be regular and lie close to one another. Great care should be taken that the material on which you embroider isnot puckered. [Illustration: 68. --Overcast Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 68 (_Overcast Stitch_). --The double overcast and thebutton-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst backstitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to left. Thestitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast, only the needlemust never be drawn out _above_, but _below_, the cotton with which youwork, and which you keep down with the thumb of the left hand. [Illustration: 69. --Slanting Overcast Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 69. --The slanting overcast stitch is worked without tracingthe outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that is, from top tobottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner shown inillustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert it a littlefarther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to it. The wrongside of the work must show back stitches. This sort of stitch is usedfor the fine outlines in patterns or letter. [Illustration: 70. --Back Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 70. --This shows the back stitch, the working of which iswell known; it is worked in several rows close to each other. [Illustration: 71. --Point Croisé. ] [Illustration: 72. --Point Croisé. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch, called _pointcroisé_, which is only used on very thin and transparent materials. Thisstitch forms on the wrong side a sort of darned pattern, which is seenby transparence on the right side, and gives the embroidered pattern athicker appearance, contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lowerleaves of the flower on illustration 110). For this stitch insert theneedle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it outunderneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern, so as toform on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again as forcommon back stitch; draw it out slanting at the place marked for thenext stitch on the opposite outline, as shown in illustration 71. [Illustration: 73--- Knotted Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of working itis to work two back stitches at a short distance from each other overthe same thread. The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take aboutfour threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle half out, wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold it tight withthe thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert it at the placewhere the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the place where the nextstitch is to be worked. [Illustration: 74. --Knotted Stitch. ] [Illustration: 75. --Knotted Stitch] The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly the samemanner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out of thematerial hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the needle in thesame position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn the needle from leftto right, so (follow the direction of the arrow) that its point arriveswhere the cotton was drawn out (marked by a cross in illustration), insert the needle there, and draw it out at the place of the nextstitch. ILLUSTRATIONS 76 & 77. --Raised satin stitch is principally used forblossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c. After having traced the outlinesof the pattern, fill the space left between them with chain stitches ina direction different from that in which the pattern is to beembroidered; begin at the point of the leaf, working from right to left, make short straight stitches, always [Illustration: 76. --Raised Satin Stitch. ] inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches, must be begunfrom the point, because they thus acquire a better shape. If you wish towork a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in illustration 77, you musttrace the veining before you fill it with chain stitches, then begin atone point of the leaf and work first one half and then the other. [Illustration: 77. --Raised Satin Stitch. ] [Illustration: 78. --Point de Plume. ] ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called _point de plume_ on a scallopedleaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle is drawnthrough the material in a slanting direction. [Illustration: 79. --Point de Minute. ] ILLUSTRATION 79 (_Point de Minute_). --This stitch is often used insteadof satin stitch when the patterns must appear raised. Wind the cottonseveral times round the point of the needle, which is inserted into thematerial half its length (the number of times the cotton is to be woundround the needle depends on the length of the pattern), hold fast thewindings with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cottonthrough the windings, insert the needle into the material at the sameplace, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin. [Illustration: 80. --Ladder Stitch. ] [Illustration: 81. --Ladder Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 80 & 81 show the _ladder stitch_, often used in ornamentalembroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in illustrations; mark alsothe cross stitches between the outlines, so that the first touch theoutlines only at both ends. The outlines are embroidered in overcaststitch or double overcast; the material is cut away underneath theladder stitch between the outlines. We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in embroidery;the following illustrations show them used for different patterns. [Illustration: 82. --Button-hole Stitch Scallop. ] [Illustration: 83. --Button-hole Stitch Scallop. ] [Illustration: 84. --Button-hole Stitch Scallop. ] [Illustration: 85. --Button-hole Stitch Scallop. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 82 TO 85 (_Different Button-hole Stitch Scallops_). --Thesescallops are prepared as above described. Take care to have the stitcheseven and regular; the scallops must be wide in the centre and very fineat both ends. ILLUSTRATIONS 86 & 87 (_Button-holes and Eyelets_). --This kind ofembroidery is used only in round or long patterns. Trace first theoutline of the hole, cut away a small round piece of material, not tooclose to the outlines (when the button-hole is very small merely insertthe point of the scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold theedge of the material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcaststitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre anddrawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are workedseparately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin towork each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In thefollowing button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as to reachas far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished at once. Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in button-hole stitch, 87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast. [Illustration: 86. --Button and Eyelet Holes. ] [Illustration: 87. --Button and Eyelet Holes. ] [Illustration: 88. --Shaded Button-hole. ] [Illustration: 89. --Shaded Button-hole. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 88 & 89. --Shaded button-holes are worked like the others, only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration 89, so as to markthe thickness. The stitches must gradually get narrower or wider, and beworked very close to each other. [Illustration: 90. --Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 90 & 91 (_Two Leaves in Raised Satin Stitch_). --In a leaflike the one seen in 90 work first the outline and veining in overcaststitch; work one half of the leaf in satin stitch, and the other halfbetween the overcast outline and veining in back stitch. The stem of aleaf is always worked last. [Illustration: 91. --Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch. ] [Illustration: 92. --Raised Leaf. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 92 & 93 (_Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and Point dePlume_). --For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin with the veinings, then work the inner points, then the outer ones, and lastly the raisedspots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is worked, one half in _pointde plume_, the other half in back stitch or _point d'or_. [Illustration: 93. --Raised Leaf. ] [Illustration: 94. --Leaf. ] ILLUSTRATION 94. --- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in overcaststitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one half of the leafis worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind of satin stitchworked without chain stitches underneath; the stitches are workedacross the leaf, leaving between two stitches an interval as wide as thestitch itself. The next row is then worked in these intervals, and eachstitch begins half-way up the one before and after it. [Illustration: 95. --Leaf Raised. ] [Illustration: 96. --Leaf Raised. ] [Illustration: 97. --Raised Leaf. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 95 to 97 (_Leaf in Raised Embroidery). --This kind ofembroidery is particularly beautiful, as it is worked separately andsewn on the material with an outline in very fine cotton, this producesthe shade seen in 95 (see also illustrations 98 to 113). For such leaveswork first one half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); theother half is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration97); cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it onthe foundation material along the outline which forms the veining onillustration 96. [Illustration: 98. --Raised Embroidered Leaf. ] [Illustration: 99. --Half of Leaf (98). ] [Illustration: 100. --Centre of Leaf (98). ] ILLUSTRATIONS 98 TO 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are workedseparately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace stitch. Thelatter (see No. 100) is traced, then make ladder stitches across, workthe outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away the material underneaththe ladder stitch. The cross stitches are then worked in darning stitchwith very fine cotton wherever two threads meet. [Illustration: 101. --Blossom in Satin Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 101 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_). --The eyelet is worked inovercast stitch, then work the upper part of the blossom all in onepiece as far as the beginning of the veining, thence the blossom isworked in two halves. [Illustration: 102. --Blossom in Satin Stitch. ] [Illustration: 103. --Bead partly covered. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 102 & 103 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_). --The raised centreof this flower is formed by a bead, over which the embroidery is worked. When the leaves have been worked one after the other, place a bead inthe centre, left free in such a manner that one hole lies on thematerial, and work over the bead by inserting the needle into its upperhole, then underneath the material, drawing it out above the materialclose to the bead, and so on (see 103). [Illustration: 104. --Star in Satin Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 104 (_Star Pattern in Satin Stitch_). --The centre, whichforms a wheel, is worked first. Draw the threads across the circlemarked by an outline; in the centre they are wound round, always takingone thread _on the needle_ and leaving the next thread _under theneedle_, as can be seen in 122 on the half-finished pattern. Thematerial underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of thepattern has been embroidered. [Illustration: 105. --Star in Point de Reprise. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 105 & 106 (_Patterns in Back, Satin, and LadderStitches_). --The small star in the centre of No. 105 is worked in _pointde reprise_. [Illustration: 106. --Star. ] [Illustration: 107. --Flower in Satin Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 107 (_Flower in Satin Stitch_). --The fine veinings areworked with fine black silk in _point russe_, which renders the effectof the flower very beautiful. [Illustration: 108--Rose in Satin Stitch. ] [Illustration: 109. --Petal for Rose. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 108 & 109 (_Rose in Satin Stitch_). --No. 109 shows onepetal larger than full size. The outer circle only is prepared withchain stitches underneath, so as to appear raised; the inner circles areworked flat. The centre of the rose is embroidered in open work. [Illustration: 110. --Heartsease. ] ILLUSTRATION 110 (_Embroidered Heartsease_). --For the knotted stitch seeNo. 75. For the _point croisé_ see 71 and 72. [Illustration: 111. --Raised Flower] ILLUSTRATION 111 (_Flower in Raised Satin Stitch_). [Illustration: 112. --Ear of Corn. ] ILLUSTRATION 112 (_An Ear of Corn in Point de Minute_). [Illustration: 113. --Bluebell. ] [Illustration: 114. --Inner part of Bluebell. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 113, 114, & 116 (_Bluebell in Raised Satin Stitch_). --Thisflower is worked partly in separate pieces, as has been described. Illustration 116 shows the raised part stretched out flat. When it isfinished it is fastened down along the dotted line on No. 114, whichshows the inner part of the flower. [Illustration: 115. --Flower. ] ILLUSTRATION 115 (_Flower in Point de Minute_). --This stitch is hereworked over a thick foundation of chain stitches. For raised patterns itlooks very well. [Illustration: 115. --Outer part of Bluebell. ] [Illustration: 117. --Flower appliquéd on Net. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 116 & 117 (_Flower worked in Appliqué_). --To work inappliqué, two materials, either similar or different, are needed. Youcan work either in appliqué of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, orof net on net. Muslin on Brussels net is the prettiest way of working inappliqué; we will therefore describe it: the other materials are workedin the same manner. Trace the pattern on the muslin, fasten the latteron the net, and trace the outlines of the pattern with very smallstitches work them in overcast stitch with very fine cotton, taking carenot to pucker the material. The veinings are worked in overcast. Whenthe pattern has been embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlineswith sharp scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see No. 117). The greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoidtouching the threads of the net. [Illustration: 118. --Border. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 118 & 119 (_Narrow Borders_). --It will be easy to workthese borders from the above instructions. Observe only that on border118 the outer row of scallops is worked first, then the button-holestitch row, and the rest afterwards. The spots are edged all round inknotted stitch. The wheels in the centre of the eyelets of No. 119 areworked with very fine cotton in loose button-hole stitch; they are woundround with the cotton in a second row. [Illustration: 119. --Border. ] [Illustration: 120. --Insertion. ] ILLUSTRATIONS 120 TO 122. --Three strips of insertion, which are workednearly like the ladder stitch. For No. 120, in tracing the outlines, make two small knots at short distances by winding the cotton four timesround the needle, as can be seen in illustration; the windings are helddown with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle through, and aknot is formed. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch only whenall the knots have been made, and then the material is cut awayunderneath. Illustration 121 is a variety of the slanting ladder stitch. Illustration 122. --The cross threads are worked in two rows in thecommon herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines on theillustration. The straight lines at the top and at the bottom are workedin double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked in a row as describedfor the star pattern, No. 104. [Illustration: 121. --Insertion. ] [Illustration: 122. --Insertion. ] [Illustration: 123. U] [Illustration: 124. C] [Illustration: 125. B] [Illustration: 126. O] ILLUSTRATIONS 123 To 129 (_Embroidered Initials_). --To learn to workinitials the Roman characters are the easiest to begin with. They mustbe traced and prepared like other embroidery in satin stitch, only thechain stitches underneath must not be too thick: it would take away theshape of the letters. All depends on the fineness and regularity of thestitches; they must be worked in overcast stitch. Work from left toright, and the letter when completed must look rather like raisedprinting than like embroidery. Gothic letters are much more difficult towork on account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice inneedlework to embroider them well. Illustration 123. --The small blackdots are worked in black silk on the thick parts of the letter: the finestrokes are covered with cross threads of black silk. Illustration124. --The outlines of the letter and the fine strokes are worked inblack silk. Illustration 125. --This letter is embroidered in raisedsatin stitch and _point de plume_. Illustration 126. --This letter isworked in back stitches, over which are worked at regular distancescross stitches of black silk. Illustration 127. --Letter in satin andback stitch. Illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and doubleovercast. Illustration 129. --Letter G in _point russe_ with black silk. [Illustration: 127. ] [Illustration: 128. ] [Illustration: 129. ] [Illustration: 130. ] ILLUSTRATION 130 (_Embroidered Figures_). --They are worked like theletters in _point de plume_ and overcast; the dots are worked in knottedstitch. * * * * * EMBROIDERY. [In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found advisableto trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed leadpencil. The pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle ina succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch. Those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty inaccomplishing this. Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated atthe same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer thetraced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is onlynecessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the holes. ] 131. --_Insertion in Embroidery_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 16. This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and button-hole stitch. The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up with chainstitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right toleft, making short stitches, and always inserting the needle close abovethe outline and drawing it out below. The holes left for the ribbon topass through are worked in plain button-hole stitch, the dots are workedin raised satin stitch. [Illustration: 131. --Insertion in Embroidery. ] * * * * * 132. --_Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton Nos. 10 and16. The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast stitch(No. 68, _Embroidery Instructions_), the leaves and flowers in raisedsatin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch, and the outer edge ofthe leaves in back stitch (No. 70, _Embroidery Instructions_) with No. 10 cotton. [Illustration: 132. --Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching. ] * * * * * 133. --_Cravat End in Embroidery_. Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk. This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos. 76 and77, _Embroidery Instructions_) and back stitching, or point Russe. Blacksilk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be stitchedin fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with thestamens in black silk. [Illustration: 133. --Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c. ] * * * * * 134. --_Basket Embroidered in Chenille_. Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and3 of blue chenille. This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover andtwo handles. The wicker is very delicately plaited, and is ornamentedwith a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. Upon the cover, work in point Russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre andouter circle in black. All round, work small stars in blue chenille, with a black stitch in the centre. The position of these stars is shownin our illustration. The basket requires no mounting; it is not evenlined. [Illustration: 134. --Basket Embroidered in Chenille. ] * * * * * 135. --_Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery. _ Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton perfectionné No. 40. Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of _EmbroideryInstructions_) in raised button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers isembroidered in raised satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and therosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses areembroidered in open-work. [Illustration: 135. --Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c. ] * * * * * 136. --_Cravat End in Embroidery_. Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton No. 30. Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inneredge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satinstitch (see No. 77 in _Embroidery Instructions_). The raised dots arealso worked in satin stitch (see page 90 of _Embroidery Instructions_). Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raiseddots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away themuslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern. [Illustration: 136. --Cravat End in Embroidery. ] * * * * * 137. --_Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c_. Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's cotton perfectionné No. 40. This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see No. 68 in_Embroidery Instructions_). The centre is worked in raised satin stitchleaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which awheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and fastenit, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist thecotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work overand under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten thecotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to thefirst one you worked, and finish off. [Illustration: 137. --Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c. ] * * * * * 138. --_Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane_. Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans andCo. 's embroidery cotton No. 4. [Illustration: 138. --Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpart. ] This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane. Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on theright side, and buttoned down at the point of each scallop. The patternis a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of finelinen. Before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. Theembroidery is worked in button-hole stitch, overcast, satin, and ladderstitch. It can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then theembroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover onthe wrong side. Make the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sewon mother-of-pearl or china buttons. * * * * * [Illustration: 139. --Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c. ] * * * * * 139. --_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs, &c_. Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton No. 40. This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point d'or onmuslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or cravat ends, or handkerchief corners. * * * * * 140. --_Handkerchief in Embroidery_ Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroiderycotton No. 50. [Illustration: 140. --Handkerchief in Embroidery. ] Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the patternforms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are worked inraised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole centres (see No. 87 of _EmbroideryInstructions_); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch; three rowsof raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the inner side of thelast row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks very handsome on abroad-hemmed handkerchief. * * * * * 141. --_Convolvulus Leaf Insertion_. Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 20. [Illustration: 141. --Convolvulus Leaf Insertion. ] The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the veiningsand stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting overcaststitch. (See No. 69 of _Embroidery Instructions_. ) * * * * * 142. --_Insertion_. Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 20. This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the stems aloneexcepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch. [Illustration: 142. --Insertion. ] * * * * * 143 and 144. --_Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming Lingerie_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 20, andMecklenburg thread No. 50. [Illustration: 143 and 144. --Patterns for Trimming Lingerie. ] These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the spots insatin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented in the centrewith lace stitches. * * * * * 145 _and_ 146. --_Insertion_. Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 16. The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin stitch, partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either side with anopen-work hem. [Illustration: 145. --Insertion. ] [Illustration: 146. --Insertion. ] * * * * * 147. --_Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery_. Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroiderycotton No. 16. The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked on thenet. The outline of the design must be traced with very small stitches, and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the veinings; the dots areworked in raised satin stitch; the border is embroidered with satinstitch flowers and scallop button-hole stitch. To work appliqué on net, see No. 117 of _Embroidery Instructions_. [Illustration: 147. --Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery. ] * * * * * 148. --_Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat_. Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White piqué; cotton No. 12. [Illustration: 148. --Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat. ] The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the eyelet-holes andstems in overcast stitch. * * * * * 149. --_Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe_. Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or filoselle. [Illustration: 149. --Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe. ] Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches. Thesestitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are worked inblack China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should be repeated ateach corner of the handkerchief. * * * * * 150 _to_ 152. --_Borders and Insertions_. --_White Embroidery_. Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black sewing-silk. [Illustration: 150. --Embroidered Border. ] For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop, thendraw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop (take forthis fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery cotton), fastenthem at the places where they cross each other, and work at these placessmall and large spots in satin stitch. Then work the scallops inbutton-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with button-hole stitch allround, and make a row of button-hole stitches for the upper edge of theborder, and above this a row of herring-bone stitches. The material iscut away underneath the wheels. * * * * * [Illustration: 151. --Corner in Embroidery. ] [Illustration: 152. --Corner in Embroidery. ] The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in pointRusse, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing silk. * * * * * [Illustration: 153--- Cravat End in Embroidery] 153. --_Muslin Cravat_. Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 50; No. 40 for the edges. This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends inraised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole stitch;the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqué satin stitch--that is, the leaves of the rose and the foliage are worked separately on muslin;they are then cut out and worked in appliqué (see Nos. 113 and 116, _Embroidery Instructions_) upon the cravat, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 154. --_Sandwich Case_. Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black silk; 1skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button. This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey orpicnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any inconvenience. The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the edges. Thewords "Bon appetit, " or "Good appetite, " at will, are worked over it inovercast with black purse silk and steel beads, the scroll pattern inchain stitch with red silk. The back and front of the case are formed ofthe same strip, which is lined with oilskin, and to which narrowside-pieces are added to form the pocket. These pieces are lined andscalloped out in the same way as the back and front, and then thescallops of both sides are joined together, and worked round inbutton-hole stitch with purse silk. The case is fastened down with a steel button. If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of brownkid. The scroll pattern should then be worked in rich blue purse silk, and gold beads used for the letters, which should be embroidered asbefore in black silk. The edge may be worked in double overcast stitchin blue or black silk. A gold button must replace the steel when thisalteration of colour is made. [Illustration: 154. --Sandwich Case. ] * * * * * 155. --_Insertion_. Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 16. This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows ofhem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of eachflower. [Illustration: 155. --Insertion. ] * * * * * 156. --_Cravat End in Raised Embroidery_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's. Embroidery cotton Nos. 50 and16. This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part of theembroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in the bouquet ofthe centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See Nos. 113 and 116, _Embroidery Instructions_. ) The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin on theneedle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the point, holdingit tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and insert it at theplace where the stitch was begun, and draw it out where the next stitchis to be worked. [Illustration: 156. --Cravat End in Raised Embroidery. ] * * * * * 157. --_Lady's Purse_. Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue silksoutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread. [Illustration: 157. --Lady's Purse. ] This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped medallionis cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed on under theleather so as to show within the oval; both leather and silk are thenlined with calico and stretched upon a small embroidery frame. The frontand back of the purse are made all of one piece, the centre of which isthe bottom; after the embroidery is completed a piece of leather isadded on each side to give the necessary fullness. Four flowrets areworked over the blue silk, with black purse silk, in raised satinstitch, with a dot in gold thread for the centre. The stems are blackand the leaflets gold. The inner border round the oval medallion isworked in gold braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The networkupon the leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened atevery crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round thisnetwork is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of thepurse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue silk ovalmedallion. The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a clasp ofgilt steel. * * * * * 158. --_Table-Napkin Ring_. Materials: Crimson cashmere; _toile cirée_; 1 reel each of white, black, green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk. [Illustration: 158. --Table-Napkin Ring] Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a piece of_toile cirée_, and work the pattern over it in point Russe with finesilk. The outer borders have white and black outlines, and leaflets ofgreen silk. The stars have black and blue outlines, a yellow cross anddots. The figure between the stars is black and yellow. * * * * * 159 _and_ 160. --_Knife Basket_. Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and bugles;red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some strong wire; acigar-box. [Illustration: 159. --Knife Basket. ] This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of a commoncigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and four-fifthswide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside and out withgrey American cloth, which is ornamented with embroidery worked inappliqué. The seams are made in overcast stitch. The feet consist offour pieces of strong wire three inches and two-fifths long. Thesepieces of wire are first covered with wool, and then with jet beads;they are then bent into loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the boxby means of holes bored into it for that purpose. The feet must befastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the basketis ornamented with an embroidered pattern in appliqué, which must alsobe worked before covering the box. The leaves are made of red cloth, thestems and veinings of black bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in fullsize; the flowers and leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, overwhich small stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals. Inside the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with Americancloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten onto this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven inches long, wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with ruches of redworsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a black bugle isfastened. [Illustration: 160. --Knife Basket. ] * * * * * 161. --_Satin Stitch Embroidery_. Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4 shadesof red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist. [Illustration: 161. --Fuchsia Spray. ] This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of theflowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silkcanvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked inraised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist. * * * * * 162. --_Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch Embroidery_. Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein ofbrown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers. [Illustration: 162. --Acacia Spray. ] This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; theflowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be workedbefore the leaves are embroidered. The flowers may be worked goldcolour, or imitate the white acacia blossom. * * * * * [Illustration: 163. --Tobacco Pouch. ] [Illustration: 164. --Tobacco Pouch. ] 163 _and_ 164. --_Tobacco Pouch_. Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for thepattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimpcord; and silk tassels. This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size;the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These patternsrepresent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out ofcloth and worked in appliqué over crimson cloth. In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from whichthe different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow incloth appliqué, the cigars brown in satin stitch. The case is crossed bytwo rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round withbutton-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes are of white cloth, edgedround with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of greysilk. The upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silkedging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a blackedging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the threetassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk. In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the smallpattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes ofwhite cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigarsis of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on withdouble rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of lightgreen cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots areembroidered over it with white silk also. To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together byseams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and joinin the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten iton to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round thetop, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silktassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each ofits four corners. * * * * * 165. --_Insertion_ Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 16. [Illustration: 165. --Insertion. ] This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. Itis worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; thecircles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or thepattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away. * * * * * 166. --_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c. _ Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glacé silk; goldbeads. This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, withcoloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbonare worked in appliqué with glacé silk. The colours are chosen accordingto personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. Abead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate thescrew. [Illustration: 166. --Pattern for Needlebook, &c. ] * * * * * 167. --_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c. _ Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads. The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers inpoint Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; theinterior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dottedstitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon isembroidered in appliqué, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon. [Illustration: 167. --Pattern for Needlebook, &c. ] * * * * * 168 _and_ 169. --_Travelling Bag_ Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of apretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid. [Illustration: 168. --Travelling Bag. ] This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is veryprettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is alsoworked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passedseveral times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the requiredthickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with whitesilk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellowsilk. The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of whitesilk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades ofgreen wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems areembroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern borderround the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steelbeads. [Illustration: 169. --Bouquet for Travelling Bag. ] The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured pursesilk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, byinserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When youhave worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work oneither side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas beingcovered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a borderworked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this borderis alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star isembroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey inthe blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in themiddle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked incerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of blacksoutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The frontand back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The sidepieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined withlight brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp. * * * * * 170. --_Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices_. Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton No. 24. This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming. It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-holestitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loosebutton-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are workedlikewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. The white spots are workedin raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrowribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches: [Illustration: 170. --Trimming for Bodices. ] * * * * * 171, 172, _and_ 173--_Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery_. This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; iflined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or;the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. Theflower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration onaccount of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at thecorresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 arose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely inbutton-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. Thispattern may also be worked on glacé silk with purse silk. [Illustration: 171. --Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery. ] [Illustration: 172. --Wing of Bird. ] [Illustration: 173. --Rose Leaf. ] [Illustration: 174. --Pattern for Glove Box. ] * * * * * 174 _and_ 175. --_Glove Box_. Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various colours. A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished. [Illustration: 175. --Glove Box. ] The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It isembroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of theembroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked inovercast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and thesmall leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. Theleaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scallopedoutline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked insatin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones arepink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged withmaize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red andyellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, andred; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green. The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slippedthrough the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at theside by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon whichinitials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners areornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with theembroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, andone to the box. * * * * * 176 _and_ 177. --_Hanging Letter Case_. Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and finegold bouillon. No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size. The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 incheslong, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a patternin gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in goldbouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satinbeads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern isembroidered in gold bouillon. The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and formsthe pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead isplaced in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowersare also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon. [Illustration: 176. --Hanging Letter Case. ] [Illustration: 177. --Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case. ] * * * * * 178. --_Embroidered Edging_. Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 24 [Illustration: 178. --Embroidered Edging. ] This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edgein scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satinstitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, _Embroidery Instructions_). * * * * * 179. --_Border in Oriental Embroidery_. Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet. [Illustration: 179. --Border in Oriental Embroidery. ] The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours. These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row ofthe first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following thesame arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the thirdof two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. Theknotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals areworked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, andblue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patternsbetween those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silkof two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as muchas you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns shouldremain the same for the whole of the border. * * * * * 180 _and_ 181. --_Embroidery Stars_. Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cottonNo. 40. These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collarsand cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, roundan open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_) isworked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms theedge. [Illustration: 180. --Embroidery Star. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 181. --Embroidery Star. ] No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star isfilled with lace wheels. * * * * * 182 _and_ 183. --_Key Bag_. Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glacé silk; purse silk of5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, andwhite; grey silk cord; grey glacé silk ribbon. This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroideryimitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in theupper part of which sits an owl, "the [Illustration: 182. --Key Bag. ] [Illustration: 183. --Key Bag. ] bird of night. " The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades insatin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearlyseen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered inscarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of thebag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk appliqué figures, inthe form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. Thescrews of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery withsilver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves ofthe bag with a border of grey glacé silk ribbon, which must, of course, continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop andsteel button. * * * * * 184 _and_ 185--- _Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices, Morning Caps, &c. _ [Illustration: 184--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c. ] Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's No. 24 forlingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes. These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimmingvarious articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they makepretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, orthread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toiletpincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch andedged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch. When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cutaway inside the leaves and spots. [Illustration: 185. --Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c. ] * * * * * 186 _and_ 187. --_Pen-Wiper in Cloth Appliqué_. Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small blackbeads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure. This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of eachred circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a redstar, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. Theborder, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silkon the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of thepen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the sideones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all thecircles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, andbetween each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge. The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with blackglazed calico, and a [Illustration: 186. --Pen-wiper in Embroidery. ] small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in thecentre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens. [Illustration: 187. --Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper. ] * * * * * 188. --_Insertion_. Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cottonNo. 30. [Illustration: 188. --Insertion. ] The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitchround an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars areworked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround eachflower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row ofhem-stitching on each side. * * * * * 189. --_Insertion_. Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cottonNo. 24. This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dotsand stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edgedon both sides with a row of hem-stitching. [Illustration: 189. --Insertion. ] * * * * * 190. --_Cigar Case_. Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; goldthread. The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brownRussia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raisedsatin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown inthe illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked infine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network ofblack purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On theopposite side of the cigar case [Illustration: 190--Cigar Case. ] initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fineleather, and the mountings gilt or steel. * * * * * 191. --_Wicker Waste Paper Basket_. Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; andglazed calico. [Illustration: 191. --Waste Paper Basket. ] The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It restsupon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made byany joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimmingconsists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put onround the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollenfringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailingcolour of the room. * * * * * [Illustration: 192. --Insertion. ] 192. --_Insertion_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 16. The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, andembroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked inraised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centrewreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch. * * * * * [Illustration: 193. --Embroidered Linen Collar. ] 193 _and_ 194. --_Embroidered Linen Collars_. Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroiderycotton No. 40. These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 isworked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of _Embroidery Instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with whitecotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (SeeNos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _Embroidery Instructions_. ) [Illustration: 194. --Embroidered Linen Collar. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 195--What-not in the Shape of a Hammock. ] 195 _and_ 196. --_What-not_. Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of greenfloss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk;green chenille; cord and tassels. [Illustration: 196. --Pattern for What-not (full size). ] This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to placeupon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon finecanvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, witha raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are workedin Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast ofa light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch withsea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piececut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, linedand quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top withgreen chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock isfastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels. * * * * * 197. --_Embroidered Handkerchief_. Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sembroidery cotton No. 40. This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design issimple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine Frenchcambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile cirée_. The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the gracefulbranches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots mightbe worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. Toproduce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourningwear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or theleaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle. [Illustration: 197. --Handkerchief Border. ] * * * * * 198 _and_ 199. --_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_. Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk;steel or gold clasp. These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may beemployed on a variety of articles. [Illustration: 198. --Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery. ] [Illustration: 199. --Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery. ] The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satinstitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the fourlargest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may beembroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black. * * * * * 200. --_Work-Bag_. Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours;embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; redcord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather. [Illustration: 200. --Work Bag. ] This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outsideconsists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqué embroidery. The inside ofthe bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted indiamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strapcompletes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut thesatin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. Afterhaving traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces ofcoloured cloth in appliqué embroidery. The different figures are sewnover the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk inchain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut apattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must bebordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The endsof the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded andlined with red satin; the outside worked in appliqué embroidery like therest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. Thestraps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 201 _to_ 203. --_Pattern for Braces_. Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico. [Illustration: 201. --Pattern for Braces (full size). ] These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented withembroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side withloose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Workfirst the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; workloose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of thecross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew onthe tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latterare then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. Thevandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-holestitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the nextbutton-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-holestitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with redbutton-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203shows another [Illustration: 102. --Embroidered Braces. ] way of working these braces on fine ribbed piqué. Work any Berlin woolwork pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqué. Forthe vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 doubledivided by 3 chain stitches. [Illustration: 203. --Pattern for Braces (Full size). ] * * * * * 204. --_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_. Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silverbrocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread. This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and goldthread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The darkpatterns are worked in appliqué with black velvet, the two other shadesin gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitchwith gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. Theborder can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is notintended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely insilk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, beincreased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it. [Illustration: 204. --Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 205. --Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery. ] 205. --_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 6 andNo. 12; net and muslin. The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked overnet. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings aresewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cutaway all round the pattern. * * * * * 206. --_Venetian Border. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton No. 12 andNo. 16; net and muslin. [Illustration: 206. --Venetian Border. ] This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great dealof work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses orhandkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the groundwork. [Illustration: 207. --Lace Insertion. ] * * * * * _207. --Lace Insertion. _ Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net. This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net;the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked inovercast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circlepreviously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed bygently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewnlightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitchesconsisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over theentire space surrounding the open holes. To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. Thispattern may be worked in appliqué by placing muslin over net, sewing allthe outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefullycutting away the muslin. * * * * * 208 _and_ 209. --_Slipper on Java Canvas. _ Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle andpurse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; somewadding; 2 cork soles. [Illustration: 208. --Slipper on Java Canvas. ] This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of lightbrown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are ofcork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbonthree-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel isturned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitchnearly full size. [Illustration: 209. --Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)] * * * * * 210 _and_ 211. --_Medallions in Point Russe_. Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in pointRusse, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrastswith the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in appliquéon the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, whichimitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is leftto the personal taste of the worker. [Illustration: 210. --Medallion in Point Russe. ] [Illustration: 211. --Medallion in Point Russe. ] * * * * * 212. --_Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner_. Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk. This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in ordermore closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallopstitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallopstitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raisedby the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-holestitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot inknotted stitch (see No. 73, _Embroidery Instructions_. ) [Illustration: 212. --Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner. ] The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, andshould be worked with great regularity. * * * * * 213 _to_ 215. --_Pattern for a Couvrette in Appliqué_. (_see pages576-7_. ) Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk ofthe same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; goldthread. This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It isworked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net. The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines areembroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. Themedallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out offlesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then uponthe blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions inovercast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour. The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver andarrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hairin fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked roundin button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when thecouvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is workedround them (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_). The openings in thecentre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches. * * * * * CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS. [Illustration: A Crochet-Needle] Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materialsrequired for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone, must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles areused for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed intoa bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon theregularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style ofneedlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look asbad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton orwool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and nevermove the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you workmust be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes, counterpanes, covers, &c. , use knitting-cotton. All crochet-workpatterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds offoundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and thepurl foundation chain. The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches. [Illustration: 216. --Plain Foundation Chain. ] ILLUSTRATION 216. --Form a loop with the cotton or other material withwhich you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as forknitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. Thecrochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb andforefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton ofthe loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind thecotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cottonfrom left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle anddraw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is castoff the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing thecotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain hasacquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the lefthand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook ofthe needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of theneedle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop. [Illustration: 217. --Double Foundation Chain. ] ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_). --Crochet 2 chainstitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1stchain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind thecotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on theneedle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the laststitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw itthrough both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundationchain is long enough. [Illustration: 218. --Purl Foundation Chain. ] ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_). --* Crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insertthe needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chainstitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw thecotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by windingthe cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chainstitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The followingcrochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; theyare all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Makea loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), and take it on the needle. [Illustration: 219. --Slip Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_). --Draw the needle through the back partof a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through theback part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round theneedle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. Theillustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is leftquite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to beinserted for the next stitch. [Illustration: 220. --Double Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_). --These are worked nearly like thepreceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of astitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the twoloops on the needle. [Illustration: 221. --Double Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 221. --These double stitches are worked nearly like thepreceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in thefollowing ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch ofthe preceding row. [Illustration: 222. --Ribbed Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_). --This stitch is worked backwardsand forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back partof every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which isnot worked, however, in the following row. [Illustration: 223. --Slanting Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_). --This stitch isworked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round theneedle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed inthe direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through asa loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch. [Illustration: 224. --Cross Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_). --This stitch is worked like No. 223on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the twoupper sides of a stitch. [Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch. ] Illustration 225 (_Long Double_). --For this stitch wind the cotton roundthe needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cottonout as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast offtogether the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton roundthe needle. [Illustration 226. --Treble Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_). --These stitches are worked as hasbeen described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treblestitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of thepreceding row. ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_). --These are worked like treblestitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the doublelong treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton threetimes round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round theneedle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. Thetwo loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding thecotton round the needle. [Illustration: 227. --Long Treble Stitch. ] [Illustration: 228. --Double Long Treble Stitch. ] [Illustration: 229. --Cross Treble Stitch. ] [Illustration: 230. --Cross Treble Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_). --Illustration 229 shows thisstitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course ofthe work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the crosstreble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw thecotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle andcast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loopformed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on theneedle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round theneedle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through thethird stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chainstitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number offoundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shownby the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treblestitch. [Illustration: 231. --Cross Treble Stitch. ] [Illustration: 232. --Raised Spots. ] ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_). --The grounding on which these spotsare worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows ofthe ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row beingplaced between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of doublestitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot asfollows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch ofthe first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is onlycompleted so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treblestitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completedas far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble thereremain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (seeillustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cottononce more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spotthe next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated atintervals of 5 stitches and in every other row. [Illustration: 233. --Hollow Spots. ] ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_). --The ground is worked in doublecrochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needlebetween the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirelywithout taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifthtreble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding thecotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under thespot. [Illustration: 234. --Open-work Spots. ] ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_). --These spots are treble stitchesdivided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, theyare worked like the raised spots (illustration 232). [Illustration: 235. --Raised Treble Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_). --These stitches are longtreble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrownacross 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on thesame side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitchof the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a rowin ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; thetreble stitches begin only in the 4th row. [Illustration: 236. --Purl Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_). --These purl stitches imitate a laceedging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certainlength (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it inthe front part of the last stitch which has been worked (seeillustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as aloop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on. [Illustration: 237. --Purl Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_). --Work 1 treble, then 7chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitchdownwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (seeillustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cottonthrough; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it. [Illustration: 238. --Purl Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_). --The chain stitchesform a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chainstitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upperchain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it throughthe loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needleand cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purlstitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances. * * * * * CROCHET PATTERNS. 239. --_Small Crochet Basket_. Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball ofpink and silver twine; a crochet needle. [Illustration: 239. --Small Crochet Basket. ] For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3chain, and repeat three times more. 2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 longinto the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat. 3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of lastround. 4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain byworking twice into it. 5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat. For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 longstitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine. 2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitchbetween each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and1 chain stitch alternately. 3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch intoeach loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard inlength, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted overwire. * * * * * 240 to 243. --_Couvrette in Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 10, andsteel crochet needle. This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representingdahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of theselarge circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed inthe spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No. 240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size. For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into acircle. 1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chainstitches. 2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet. 3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round: [Illustration: 240. --Couvrette in Crochet. ] The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain. 5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch ofeach loop. 6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasingin the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals ofthe dahlia. 13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 doublein the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round. 14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between. 18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in nextloop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chainbetween each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the largecircle is completed. Six of these are required. [Illustration: 241. --Showing one of the small Circles full size of No. 240. ] For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into around. 1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet. 2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times. 3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. Thiscompletes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in thecentre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other largecircles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in thecentre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round. [Illustration: 242. --Showing one of the large Circles full size of No. 240. ] When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen inillustration 217, and work the border as follows:-- 1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils ofthe large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in thelast trefoil of the large circle, 10 chain. Repeat all round. 2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of lastround, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch. Repeat from *. 3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain. 5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round. 6th round: The same as the 5th. 7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette. [Illustration: 243. --Border for Couvrette. ] * * * * * 244. --_Star in Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 80, or withNo. 8 or 10 for couvrettes. A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips ofinsertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. Theymay also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the materialbeing cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c. [Illustration: 244. --Star in Crochet. ] The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, andjoin it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra longtreble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work asfollows:-- 1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeatfrom * 5 times more. 2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which isupon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of theouter circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double atthe bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre starmust be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances. * * * * * 245. --_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_. Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse pursetwist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag andstrings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left;rings. Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fastenoff; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ringand work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, workover 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of therings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew inthe centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds inthe same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drabwith rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternatecolours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring tothe corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; jointhe other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to thesecond from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ringto the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the oneopposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining theother 5 in the same way. [Illustration: 245. --Crochet Silk Bag. ] For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to thecentre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of singlecrochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long intothe same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes thediamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes thelower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches ofdouble crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1stround: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chainstitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one ofthe colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk thatis remaining after working the crochet. * * * * * 246. --_Crochet Sovereign Purse. _ Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a fewsteel beads; and a steel clasp. The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raisedrose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steelbeads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing wherenecessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain incoloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading thebeads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches whenrequired. [Illustration: 446. --Crochet Sovereign Purse. ] The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the littleraised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when bothsides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (exceptwhere the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented withbeads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked withoutthe least difficulty from the illustration. * * * * * 247. --_Stars in Crochet_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 8 or 20. This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, accordingto the size of the cotton with which it is worked. Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1ststitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work(without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from thecentre. 1st branch. --1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form apurl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18chain. 2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl betweenover the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 doubleover the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on thelast 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which theleaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins thesecond branch. 1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to forma circle. [Illustration: 247. --Stars in Crochet. ] 2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitchwork 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in eachof the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1stround. 3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work indouble crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Beforebeginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of thecircle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained;cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of thebranches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:-- 1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purlunder the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet tothe right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make aslip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five timesmore. 2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--thatis, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil(thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from*. Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 248. --_Crochet Purse over Rings. _ Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maizecoarse purse silk. Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is thecentre ring for the bottom of the purse. [Illustration: 248. --Crochet Purse over Rings. ] Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ringand work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work roundthe other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished, join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into thecentre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, andplace them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maizecolour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; theyare to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings withcerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds inworking the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Workover 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise. For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring astitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 roundsof single open crochet. 6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work anotherlong stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch intothe next loop, repeat from *. 7th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, workanother long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitchof double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 timesmore, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into thenext 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat fromthe beginning. 8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, workanother long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th longstitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of doublecrochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from thebeginning. 9th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, workanother long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of doublecrochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from thebeginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. Add a tassel at thebottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete thepurse. * * * * * [Illustration: 249. --Crochet Brioche Cushion. ] 249. --_Crochet Brioche Cushion_. Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (theseshould be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skeinof white filoselle. Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, andjoin it into a circle. Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw itthrough all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in thenext stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the sameway all round. 2nd round: Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rdshade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking careto place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1double, then 12 more, and so on. 3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double. 4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double. 5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double. 6th round: Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double. 7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double. 8th round: Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double. 9th round: Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double. 10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double. 11th round: Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double. 12th round: Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double. 13th round: Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern of raised spotsbeing now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red indouble stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close upthe circle gradually. The white flowers are worked over the plain partof the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dotin the centre. The cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined withglazed calico. A round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom, to make it stand firmer. * * * * * _250. --Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette. _ Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar'sHead cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like smallarticles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20. A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted toso many purposes. Counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats, pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from thedesign. [Illustration: 250. --Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette. ] Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the lastrow is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needlein the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain, repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chainstitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close theround. 2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch ineach of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet, working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of precedingrow, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6petals in all. 3rd round: Work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back ofeach, and cut the cotton at the end of the round. 4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5chain between each petal. 5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat. 6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, *5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slipstitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in thesame place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to theend of the round. There should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round. For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration, in working the last round. As many circles can be added as may berequired for the couvrette. * * * * * 251. --_Crochet Lace_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 40 or 60. This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. Makea sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely indouble stitch. 2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch underit; repeat from *. 3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl(each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 longtreble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 doublein the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble inthe 4th stitch; repeat from *. [Illustration: 251. --Crochet Lace. ] 4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the precedingrow, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 nextdouble in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. 5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough. * * * * * 252. --_Crochet Border_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 12, 16, 24, or 40. [Illustration: 252. --Crochet Border. ] This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according tothe size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make atrimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it canbe used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. Make a sufficientlylong foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *. 2nd row: * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble, 1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of thefour), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeatfrom *. 3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in thepreceding row, 5 chain. 4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of thepreceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of thestitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so asto form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *. 5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chainin the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form aclover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with aslip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure. 6th row: In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of theclover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2ndchain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of theclover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in themiddle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *. * * * * * [Illustration: 253. --Crochet Border. ] 253--_Crochet Border_ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 24, 40, or60, according to the article for which it is required. On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double ineach chain stitch. 2nd row: Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitchesof the preceding row. 3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in themiddle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between. 4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on eachtreble, 3 chain between. 5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between. 6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row. 7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain, miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treblein the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 4; repeat from *. 8th row: Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain inthe preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain. 9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 doublein the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chainstitch; repeat from *. 10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the precedingrow, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *. 11th row: In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meeton either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain, and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in thechain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double, but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain. * * * * * _254 to 257. --Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet. _ Material: Berlin wool in two colours. [Illustration: 254. --Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet. ] The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two roundcouvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They arefastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels ofthe same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundationchain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle, and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double. 2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round, inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chainof this round. We shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * tothe end of the round. 3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the precedinground; at the end of the round 4 chain. 4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round. 5th round: Begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch, inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4thround. The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirelyof double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of thestitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised onthe right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. Themiddle part of the couvrette is then finished. [Illustration: 255. --Pattern for Arm Chair Border. ] [Illustration: 256. --Border for Arm Chair (254). ] Illustration 257 shows it in full size. 7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round underthem, 1 double. 8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the precedinground. 9th round: 3 double in each scallop. 10th round, like the 5th; 11th round, like the 6th; [Illustration: 257. --Couvrette for Arm Chair (254). ] 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th; 17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th. 20th round: Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with thedark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of thecolour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the darkwool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. Now and then crochet2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that thecouvrette remains perfectly flat. 21st round: 1 double in every stitch. The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11throunds. The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8throunds. The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. Thenwork the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops which areworked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration No. 256 showsa part of the border with the treble round in full size. Work from itwith the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the precedinground, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool offthe needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet withthe dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of thisround, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double, on the next dark treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw thewool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop againwith the light wool. Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It consists of 3rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette. 1st round of the border: With dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeatfrom *. 2nd round: With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in thenext treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the doublestitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain. 3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. Towork the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time inthe upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round. 4th round: Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round, miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work withthe light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble inthe next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeatfrom *. * * * * * _258 to 260. --Crochet Insertions. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 30, 40, or60. [Illustration: 258. --Crochet Insertion. ] These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which dependupon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen inillustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a sufficientlylong foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitchin the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in thenext stitch but 3, repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *. 3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treblein the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not castoff separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. Then 5chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *. 4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *. 5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch ofthe preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *. 6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble inthe point of the next leaf, repeat from *. 7th and 8th rows: Like the 1st and 2nd. [Illustration: 259. --Crochet Insertion. ] The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begunin the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be workedtoo tight. 1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the sameway on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle inthe 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration 260 shows an insertion whichimitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating nettingwith raised figures. The grounding consists of 9 rows. Work on asufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 crosstreble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches underthem, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *. 3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitchscallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work from illustrationsquare patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; forthese leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to eachother; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton. [Illustration: 260. --Crochet Insertion. ] * * * * * 261. --_Crochet Lace_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 30. [Illustration: 261. --Crochet Lace. ] A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace. Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a longloop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it inthe chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, andcontinuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has beendrawn forms 1 purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this moreeasily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has beenworked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundationchain, and repeat from *. 1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitchunder it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeatfrom *. 3rd row: Like the 1st. 4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. 5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *. 6th to 9th rows: Alternately like the 4th and 5th rows. 10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chainstitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loopson the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. Thisstitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton overthe needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton oncethrough them. This forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shapedpatterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitchin the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the patternis then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in themiddle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which areworked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row andin the following one as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch, leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch), 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of thefollowing scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl onthe next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chainstitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. * * * * * CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE. 262--_D'Oyley No_. 1. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it. Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch. Round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *. Round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat. Round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat. Round 7: The same as 6th. No. 2. --Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more. Round 2: Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 doublecrochet, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain, repeat. Round 4: Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1double crochet, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat. Round 6: Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. Round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat. Round 8: Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. Round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat. Round 10: Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat. Round 12: Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. Round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat. Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley. No. 3. --Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the circle 1double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 doublelong, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twicemore, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from the beginning. In workingthe 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leavesin this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf withoutjoining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch ofdouble crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, andjoin it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7chain, 3 chain. Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but makeno chain stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for thisd'oyley. No. 4. --The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on eachside. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley. No. 5. --Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in thisd'oyley. [Illustration: 262. --D'Oyley No. 1. ] No. 6. --Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the circle1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to thecorresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work the 3rd leaf the same asthe 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet intothe 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain, and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the1st leaf. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 7. --Tie a round of cotton about this size O. Round 1: 20 double crochet into the round. Round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop. Round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more longstitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat. Round 6: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 8. --Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. Round I: 28 double long into the circle. Round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round. Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 9. --1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch intothe 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeatfrom * to the end of the row. 2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chaininto the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, andwork into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeatfrom * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then workthe other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: Into the spacebetween the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. Thispattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 10. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each. Round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat. Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 11. --Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 20 long into the circle. Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop. Round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 5: 10double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat. Round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. This patternis not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 12. --Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 doublecrochet into the circle. Round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, workinto the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 doublecrochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 doublecrochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet intothe same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into thestitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 forthe stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle, repeat from * twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 13. --*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into eachloop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of eachpoint, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochetinto each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. Thispattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 14. --Round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeatfrom * 4 more times. Round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat. Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. This pattern isnot repeated. No. 15. --*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long intosuccessive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into thesame place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain, repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 16. --Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into thesame loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches, unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, workanother long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 singlecrochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of theleaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops, 4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is notrepeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in theengraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then workan edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long intothe 4 chain at the point of the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 doublelong into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long intothe 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 longinto the 4 chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain ofthe next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chainfrom the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from thelast, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7thpattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochetinto the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 doublecrochet into the 3 chain of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into thenext 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf ofthe same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of doublecrochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into thecentre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 singlecrochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 doublecrochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 doublecrochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double longinto the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into thelast 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern fromthe last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of samepattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of sameleaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8thpattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single, 13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of therow. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on theother side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side tocorrespond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation, repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain. * * * * * _263. --D'Oyley No. 2. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2double crochet into each loop. Round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop. Round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat. Round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat. Round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th ofthe 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last doublecrochet, and repeat. Round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11chain, repeat. Round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in lastround, repeat. Round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochetinto the last double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet intothe centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. Round 12: 21double crochet into the 17 chain in last round. [Illustration: 263. --D'Oyley No. 2. ] No. 2. --Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: *, 7 chain, 1double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more. Round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat. Round 3: 2 long into each loop. Round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat. No. 3. --Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet. Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop. Round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point, finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more. No. 4. --Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and uniteit, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successiveloops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop, and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 doublecrochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 6. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. No. 5. --Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each ofthe 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 intoeach of the 9 next. Round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the nextloop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2ndleaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain, and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch ofthe 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain, turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last ofthe 5 and 9 chain stitch. No. 6. --Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more. Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7chain, repeat. Round 4: Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2double crochet, and repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11chain, repeat. Round 6: Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3more double crochet, repeat. No. 7. --1st row: Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end ofthe row. 2nd row: Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 doublecrochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side tocorrespond. 3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into thedouble long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: Into the 7chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat. No. 8. --1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each ofthe 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chainto correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. 3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat. No. 9. --The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required forthis d'oyley. No. 10. --Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of thesewill be required for this d'oyley. No. 11. --Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to berepeated in this d'oyley. No. 12. --The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley. No. 13. --The same as No. 5. No. 14. --The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley. No. 15. --The same as No. 10. No. 16. --The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley. No. 17. --The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. No. 18. --The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work theedging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain ofsame leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 longinto the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10thpattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 longinto the 1st double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 doublecrochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet intothe 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the joinof 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of samepattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16thpattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochetinto the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into thelast 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10thpattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 doublecrochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into thecentre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochetinto the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochetinto the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chainfrom the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 longinto the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row:The same edging as to 1st d'oyley. * * * * * 264. --_D'Oyley No. 3. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3 in samed'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 5, 2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 7, 1 patternfrom No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No. 10. Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--Round 1: Make a chain stitch of12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 doublecrochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side tocorrespond. Round 2: 2 long into each loop. Round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat. Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 doublecrochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chainbetween each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6chain. Repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and7 of single crochet. The edging to be the same as in the formerd'oyleys. The 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write, that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. Itwill be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double longor long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the numberof chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circleperfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them onit from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to thepaper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper. [Illustration: 264. --D'Oyley No. 3. ] * * * * * 265. --_D'Oyley No. 4. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1 patternfrom No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6, and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 11 in 2ndd'oyley, and the following pattern. No. 1. --Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 doublecrochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 doublelong, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 doublecrochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 doublecrochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round. No. 2. --Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochetinto successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet intosuccessive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. Nextround: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point, miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number. No. 3. --Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other sideto correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 doublecrochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 singlecrochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in lastrow, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain, repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn, miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem indouble crochet. [Illustration: 165. --D'Oyley No. 4. ] No. 4. --Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into thecircle 16 long. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain aftereach. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. Round4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chainto cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 doublelong, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work downthe other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of theround, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in thesame manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same asbefore, finish with a stem of 8. No. 5. --Round 1: Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 doublecrochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 12chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 2double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2double crochet into successive loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5long, 2 double crochet, repeat. No. 6. --Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 doublecrochet into each loop. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 3 doublecrochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 moreof double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 7: Into the 7 chain 4double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When allthese pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, andwork the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys. * * * * * 266. --_D'Oyley No. 5. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more. Round 2: Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat. Round 4: Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat. No. 2. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more. Round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 doublecrochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1stround, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat. Round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 doublecrochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat. Round 6: Same as 4th. Round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat. Round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 doublecrochet, 3 long, 2 double long. Round 9: Same as 7th. Round 10: Same as 8th. Two of these patterns willbe required for this d'oyley. [Illustration: 266. --D'Oyley No. 5. ] No. 3. --Make a chain of 16, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat. Round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 singlecrochet into the last double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat. Round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each. Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochetinto the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the sameplace, 1 chain, repeat. No. 4. --Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more. Round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat. Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 doublecrochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last ofthe 5 double crochet, repeat. Round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochetinto the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. Workthe other side of the point to correspond. Two of these patterns will berequired for this d'oyley. No. 5. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 doublecrochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet intosuccessive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4more double crochet. Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet intoeach of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet asbefore. No. 6. --Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more. Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5double crochet are done, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat. Round 4: Same as 2nd. Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat. Round 6: Same as 2nd. Round 7: Same as 5th. Round 8: Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3. Round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat. Round 10: The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. Four ofthese patterns will be required for this d'oyley. No. 7. --Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch ofdouble crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with3 chain. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. No. 8. --1st row: Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and workinto successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2ndrow: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long intosuccessive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double longinto the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Noloop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton asmaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton. No. 9. --Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 20 long into the circle. Round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss1 loop, repeat. Round 3: Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 4: Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns fromNo. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leavesfrom No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley. When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving, and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys. * * * * * 267. --_D'Oyley No. 6_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat. Round 3: Increase to 30 double crochet. Round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet, and repeat 5 times more. Round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11chain, repeat. Round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop. Round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, andrepeat. Round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat. Round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop. Round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 doublecrochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work1 double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4times more, repeat from the beginning of the row. No. 2. --Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle. Round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat. Round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number will be required forthis d'oyley. [Illustration: 267. --D'Oyley No. 6. ] No. 3. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more. Round 2: Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 singlecrochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more doublecrochet, repeat from the beginning of the row. No. 4. --Make a chain of 6, and unite it. Round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more. Round 2: Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another longinto the same place, 2 chain, repeat. Round 3: Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 doublecrochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place, repeat. Round 4: Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochetinto the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochetinto the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet intothe 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet intothe centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patternsfrom No. 4, 3 from No. 6, and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1std'oyley, 1 pattern from each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patternsfrom No. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the5th d'oyley. Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before. * * * * * 268. --_D'Oyley No. 7. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it. 1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop. 2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop. 3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. 4th round: Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet. 5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. 6th round: Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochetinto the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat. 7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13chain, repeat. 8th round: Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat. No. 2. --Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make achain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each. 2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, thenwork round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twiceinto the end of each point. 3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work along stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning andend of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch ofdouble crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work intosuccessive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into thelast of the 3. This completes the pattern. No. 3. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 doublecrochet into each loop. 2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next, repeat. 3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet intothe next, repeat. 4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *. 5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of thechain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat. 6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *. 7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet intothe 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *. This completes the pattern. Then work a circle in satin stitch on theplain part of the pattern with the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of thesepatterns will be required for this d'oyley. [Illustration: 268. --D'Oyley No. 7. ] No. 4. --Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet, 3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in singlecrochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side, then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successiveloops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite thelast to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Threeof these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patternsfrom No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the samed'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 patternwith 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from No. 6, work 6patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in thesame d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th d'oyley. Join thesepieces as before, and add the same edging. * * * * * 269. --_D'Oyley No. 8_ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of doublecrochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the otherside of the chain to correspond, and unite it. 2nd round: *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1stof the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. No loop to be missed atthe point. When this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, andwork into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make5 chain, repeat 5 times more. 2nd round: Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 ofdouble crochet, repeat. 3rd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley. [Illustration: 269. --D'Oyley No. 8. ] No. 2. --Make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: Work 2 double crochetinto each loop. 2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. 3rd round: Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into thesame place, make 7 chain, and repeat. 4th round: Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochetinto the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. Two of these patternswill be required for this d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1std'oyley, work 1 pattern from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 patternfrom each of Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5thd'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 fromNo. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in 7th d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in 7th d'oyley, then sew them together as before. * * * * * 270. --_D'Oyley No. 9_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir. 1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 timesmore. 2nd round: Work 1 double crochet into every loop. 3rd round: *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochetdown the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5times more. 4th round: Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into thepoint, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat. 5th round: Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 longstitches, and 1 double crochet. No. 2. --Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 doublecrochet into the next, repeat. 2nd round: * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochetinto the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 doublecrochet. 3rd round: * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centreone of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 doublecrochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more. 4th round: Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above thelast 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain, turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 doublecrochet, make 4 chain. 5th round: Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work intosuccessive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, 5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, thenwork 12 double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for thisd'oyley. [Illustration: 270. --D'Oyley No. 9. ] No. 3. --Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 timesmore. 2nd round: Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, workanother stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat. 3rd round: Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 doublecrochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into thenext 1 chain, and repeat. 4th round: Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in lastround, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successiveloops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. Two of these patternswill be required for this d'oyley. No. 4. --Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it, make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: Work in the 21 chain 25stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet, work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: Work 3 stitches ofdouble crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 singlecrochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop, repeat this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for thisd'oyley. No. 5. --Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on theother side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet intothe next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the endloop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double intothe 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round. Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with 3leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns fromNo. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sewthem together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before. * * * * * 271. --_D'Oyley No. 10_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Pattern No. 1. --Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chainstitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, worka stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chainstitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, thenwork down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd longstitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 doublecrochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st, work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st, work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st, make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet. [Illustration: 271. --D'Oyley No. 10. ] No. 2. --Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch ofdouble crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * fivetimes more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch ofsingle crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work downthe other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1std'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 inthe same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 fromNo. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew thepieces together as before, and work the edging. * * * * * 272 _and_ 273. --_Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work_. Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; smallglass beads; a piece of bamboo cane. This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed formany things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silkover straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbonform the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet mustbe damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, andwhen you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide thebeginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of thebottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of thisfirst row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the lastround over wire. [Illustration: 273. --Bottom of Work Basket (272). ] It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the workflat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket, which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds. It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds withoutincreasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 roundsincrease 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be alittle wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire tothe straws. [Illustration: 272. --Work Basket in Straw and Crochet. ] The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middlewith 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle, working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn thestraws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straightline. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is workedover wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brownsilk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and whichforms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brownsilk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece ofbamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it inlong stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of thebasket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, whichforms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats, ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon. * * * * * 274 _and_ 275. --_Two Crochet Borders_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80. No. 274. --Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of thelength required. [Illustration: 274. --Crochet Border. ] 1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain. 2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop ofchain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are underthe 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. Repeat from *. 4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border. The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet. 5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in eachstitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small pointsrepeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the lastpoint of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration. ) * * * * * [Illustration: 275. --Crochet Border. ] No. 275. --The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up withlace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i. E. _, 5 chainand 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn andwork the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitchbetween the 2 purl. 2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on. The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of thechain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 doublein the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small pointsover it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treblein the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from* 6 times more. In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallopto the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completedfill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread, joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2or 3 stitches with a sewing needle. [Illustration: 275. --Crochet Border. ] * * * * * 276. --_Crochet Antimacassar_. Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Boar's Head cottonNo. 10. [Illustration: 276. --Crochet Antimacassar. ] This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, andis also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4stitches, and unite it. 1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, workanother long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat. 2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1loop, and repeat. 3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7chain, and repeat. 4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2more double crochet, and repeat. 5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, *make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, andrepeat. 8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successiveloops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 nextloops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 longstitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 doublecrochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. Thiscompletes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving willmake a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. If around couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than theothers; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in eachrow till you have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tasselsare required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cottonover a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads ofthe cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at oneend, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with themiddle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about aninch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will besufficient. * * * * * 277. --_Crochet Insertion_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 40. [Illustration: 277. --Crochet Insertion. ] The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always twoopposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, jointhem into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chainstitches. Work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double roundthe 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, andwork 10 chain scallops as follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double inthe last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. Toget to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles inthe middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under thework and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on theneedle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described, and so on. * * * * * 278 _and_ 279. --_Tobacco Pouch in Crochet Work_. Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread. The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star. With crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into acircle. Work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch. 5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on. 6th round: All gold stitches. 7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on. 8th round: All crimson stitches. 9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c. 10th round: Similar to the preceding. [Illustration: 278. --Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279. ] 11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c. 12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre goldstitches of preceding round, &c. 13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c. 14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c. 15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c. 16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c. 17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of precedinground, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c. 18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7crimson stitches, &c. Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No. 279. Thecentre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The border roundthe top is of the same colours. [Illustration: 279. --Tobacco Pouch. ] Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round ofgold scallops. In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off withsmall balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouchfasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and oneblack. The pouch is lined with white kid. * * * * * 280 _and_ 281. --_Crochet Rosettes_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 4, 24, or40. These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, orfor making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with whichthey are worked. [Illustration: 280. --Crochet Rosette. ] 280. --Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle andwork the 1st round; 44 double. 2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round underthem, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *. 3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, *5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble, 1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round theneedle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat10 times more from *. Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, whichis ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen inillustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chainstitch. * * * * * [Illustration: 281. --Crochet Rosette. ] 281. --Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and workthe 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitchbefore the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. Thefirst leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times morefrom *. Join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitchin the 1st of the 11 chain stitch. 2nd round: (Fasten on the cottonafresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between. 3rdround: 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is then completed. * * * * * 282. --_Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Appliqué, and Velvet Ribbon_. [Illustration: 282. --Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers workedin Appliqué and Velvet Ribbon. ] This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented withembroidery patterns worked in appliqué, and velvet ribbon drawn through. They are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. Begin on asufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by20, and work the 1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitchesof the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning theloop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton iswound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similartreble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, windthe cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with theloop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches of thefoundation, and repeat from *. 2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting theneedle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between. 3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain, 1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the precedingrow, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *. 4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain;repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated onthe other side of the foundation chain. When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patternsand velvet ribbon. * * * * * 283. --_Crochet Insertion_. This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers orpillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If theinsertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower borderon which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle ofone of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches;join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:--*10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten thethread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slipstitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes thestar-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the followingrows:-- 1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last ofthe 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *. 2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *. 4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked thesefour rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over thelast the following 5 rows for the button-holes:-- 1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the nextpurl. Repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row. 3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches. 4th row: Like the 2nd row. 5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *. [Illustration: 283. --Crochet Insertion. ] * * * * * 284. --_Crochet Insertion_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 30. This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on adouble foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitchesas follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consistingof 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the nextstitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows ofscallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of thefoundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purlstitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers, which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make afoundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding fromillustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last ofthe 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consistsof 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other sideof the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 timesmore from *, and the flower is completed. [Illustration: 284. --Crochet Insertion. ] * * * * * 285. --_Crochet Garter_. Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round whiteelastic cord; a pearl button. This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord;the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread. [Illustration: 285. --Crochet Garter. ] Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take theelastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work overit. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completedin the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at thebeginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when youcome to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain. Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round itoff. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, thena plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with thebutton-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic ifworked entirely in silk. * * * * * 286. --_Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton, and a needleto match. This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of oldguipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips ofrosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round thebosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettesround the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastenedone to another in the course of the work. They are made in the followingmanner:--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round:8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 firstchain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in thering. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slipstitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckonedas 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain. Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rdround: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette. Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl ofboth. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to bejoined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joiningbetween the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the samemanner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a starformed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms thecentre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purlthat are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 ofthese stars are required for each shoulder. [Illustration: 286. --Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise. ] For the Border. --It is worked at the same time both round the bosom andsleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop ofthe rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain, 1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette(see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times roundthe needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1strosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice roundit, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2ndrosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with theloop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the lastdouble treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * ateach slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slipstitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the nextspace, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double overthe 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round theupper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the nextbut one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge ofthe bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round ofcrosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so thatthe treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross. * * * * * KNITTING. 287. --KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by nomeans so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted thehands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives ofany civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment. Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland andScotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of thisindustry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters ofScotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at presentignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the followinginstructions are offered. To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton, silk, or wool are required. Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to beused depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread, cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of theneedles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (seeNo. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walkerand Co. 's knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English andforeign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of Germanneedles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsestEnglish wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done withtwo needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c. , three, four, and five needles are employed. [Illustration: 287. --Knitting Gauge. ] * * * * * 288. --_Casting On_. This term is used for placing the first row or round of knittingstitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by"knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:-- Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand, throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and passthe needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, passit through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch(see No. 288). [Illustration: 288. --Casting On. ] 289. --_To Knit On_. [Illustration: 289. --Knitting On. ] Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, andanother needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (No. 289). Hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger, leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (Thewonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate, that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at herfingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes apurely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful. ) Insert the pointof the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-handneedle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle infront under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which inits turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle. 290. --_Simple Knitting (plain)_. [Illustration: 290. --Plain Knitting. ] Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle, at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass thepoint of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with thethread already thrown over, as in "knitting on, " only, instead ofplacing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on theright-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of theleft-hand needle. Continue thus until all the stitches are taken fromthe left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete. 291. --_To Purl, Pearl, or Seam_. Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitchas in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must bebrought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, thethread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see No. 291). [Illustration: 291. --Purling. ] 292. --_To Increase_. Increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once roundthe needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch. [Illustration: 292. --Increasing. ] 293. --_To Decrease_. This is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knittingthem together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knittingit, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usualway, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (seeNo. 293). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceedthus:--Slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknittedstitch over the two knitted together. [Illustration: 293. --Decreasing. ] 294. --_Round Knitting_. To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus thatstockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c. , are made. To knit with fourneedles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a secondneedle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceedin a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when thisis done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last;this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round. 295. --_Casting Off_. Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitchover the second; continue this to the end of the row. _Note_. --The lastknitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely. 296. --_To Pick up a Stitch_. This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming astitch with it. * * * * * The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety ofwork:-- 297. --_Peacock's Tail Pattern_. Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton. [Illustration: 297. --Peacock's Tail Pattern. ] Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes ninestitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, whichis in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row. 1_st Row_. --2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat thisfour times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2plain for border. 2_nd Row_. --2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat. [Illustration: 298. --Spiral Stitch. ] 3_rd Row_. --Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat. 4_th Row_. --Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat. 5_th Row_. --Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together. Begin from the 1st row. Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. Thesestripes should be sewn together after all are finished. * * * * * 298. --_Spiral Stitch_. Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool. This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton. It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide stripes caston twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting thefirst and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainlyknitted. 1_st Row_. --Purl 3 together to end of row. 2_nd Row_. --Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making thelast stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row. * * * * * [Illustration 299. --Knotted Stitch. ] 299. --_Knotted Stitch_. Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool. Cast on 11 stitches. 1_st Row_. --All plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle beforeeach stitch. 2_nd Row_. --Each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads ofwool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast offthe second over the third, and the first over the second; this leavesbut one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length isobtained. This pattern makes very pretty borders. * * * * * 300. --_Knitted Moss Borders_. Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green. Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say twenty, andknit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until a sufficientlength has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip on a sieve over abasin of boiling water, and cover it over. When it has absorbed thesteam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron. Then cut the strip downthe centre, and unravel the wool on each side. The threads of wool allcurling, resemble moss. They are held firmly by the selvedge of theknitting. * * * * * 301. --_German Brioche Stitch_ Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool. Cast on an even number of stitches. All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for purling, make 1, take 2 together. In the following rows the made stitch mustalways be slipped, the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of theprevious row knitted together. [Illustration: 301. --German Brioche Stitch. ] Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number ofstitches, and working the rows as follows:-- Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. _Note_. --The made stitch andthe slipped stitch of the previous row must always be knitted together, and the decreased stitch of that row slipped. * * * * * NETTING. 302. --NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiestaccomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the effectsproduced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. Onegreat advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished andindependent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch itdoes not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work. Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The materialsrequired are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration No. 302). These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel. The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel forsilk, cotton, &c. The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the littlehole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound onthe needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles are numbered from 12 to24; these last are extremely fine. The meshes correspond to the sizes ofthe needles, and are made of the same materials. The larger the size ofthe stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, largehat meshes are often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over thefoot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who donot use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavilyweighted; to this the foundation is fastened. The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation istied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of ahorseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and thefoundation fixed as before. [Illustration 302. --Needle and Mesh. ] 303. --_To Net_. Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of theleft hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only bythe thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in the right hand, pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, passthe needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms thethread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitchor loop of the foundation. Draw the needle out, retaining the loops onthe fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last torelease the thread. As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, theloop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. Thenext stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in thesame manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make afoundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, andnet fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and thefoundation is ready. [Illustration: 303. --Netting. ] Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. When apiece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and thelittle ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out. 304. --_Square Netting_. Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin fromone stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase bymaking two in the last loop of every row. As soon as the right number ofstitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting twostitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains. These squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on. 305. --_Round Netting_ Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists in theway of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in No. 305. After having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out andpassed from above into the loop just made. This stitch is very effectivefor purses. [Illustration: 305. --Round Netting. ] 306. --_Diamond Netting_ Is often called "pointed netting, " and is made by netting from onestitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing inthe same way, as described at page 303. 307. --_To Net Rounds_. To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the firststitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing thiswhen required by the work. 308. --_"English" Netting_ Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the second row bynetting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing byone stitch and taking it up. _3rd Row_. --Plain. _4th Row_. --Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row. _5th Row_. --Plain. [Illustration: 308. --"English" Netting. ] 309. --_Lace Edging_. Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until asmany stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. *Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge orscallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form thepoint, and begin from *. 310. --_Open Lace_. This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes andextremely fine crochet cotton. Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of therequired length. _4th Row_. --On the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch. _5th Row_. --On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop;repeat to end of row. _6th Row_. --On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to endof row. [Illustration: 310. --Open Lace. ] _7th Row_. --On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches, pass over the 5th, repeat to end. _8th Row_. --On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two firststitches, pass over the 4th; repeat. _9th Row_. --On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two firststitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat. This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps, children's hoods, &c. 311. --_Shell Border_. This border is intended as an edging for square netting forcouvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times aslong as that employed for the square netting. Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8, make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh usedfor the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, takea still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row ofone stitch in each stitch. This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articlesin square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipured'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging thework; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners whena little fulness is required. [Illustration: 311. --Shell Border. ] * * * * * KNITTING AND NETTINGPATTERNS 312. --_Knitted Sock for a Child. _ Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrowpink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins. This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins, backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, butincrease once at the end of every other row on the right side of thework, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every otherrow. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every otherrow; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, andknit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, andcast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on eachside of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe andfront of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately, then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked asfollows:--* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down theback of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to formthe toe. [Illustration: 312. --Knitted Sock. ] * * * * * 313. --_Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &c. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton; 5 steelknitting-needles of a corresponding size. [Illustration: 313. --Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, BerceaunetteCovers, &c. ] According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful squaremakes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. Ifworked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for thefirst-mentioned purpose. Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the1st round. 2nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat3 times more from *. 3rd round: Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after everypattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from*. 4th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, knit 1. 6th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward, knit 1. 8th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cottonforward, knit 1. The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in everyother round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed bythrowing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15stitches are knitted between. 20th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knittedstitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 22nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throwthe cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over theknitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 1. 24th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throwthe cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knittedstitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw theslipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throwthe cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 26th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first overthe last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw thefirst over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three timesalternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cottonforward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 28th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four timesalternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slippedover the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six timesalternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slippedover the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 32nd round: Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 timesalternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slippedover the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitchestogether, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 34th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 timesalternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slippedover the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 36th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 timesalternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slippedover the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitchestogether, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 38th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 timesalternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slippedover the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 40th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 timesalternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slippedover the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitchestogether as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and castoff. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side. * * * * * 314. --_Knitted Sleeping Sock. _ Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces lightblue fleecy. [Illustration: 314. --Knitted Sleeping Sock. ] These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern, and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; caston 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles, and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:-- 1st round: Quite plain. 2nd round: Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool. 3rd to 6th rounds: Knitted plain with white wool. 7th round: With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitchof the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep iton the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: With bluewool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purledoff together with the preceding stitch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th roundstwice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of thepreceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamondpattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed byleaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwardsand forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that thedecreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained byknitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2ndneedle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch anddraw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the samemanner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasingsexactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there arealways 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at thebeginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plainrounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining stitches areknitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of thesole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet allround it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel. The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops inblue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide. * * * * * _315 and 316. --Netted Fichu or Cape. _ Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle andmeshes. This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used threeor four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over acap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white, the border blue. The illustration of the ground and of the border, infull size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used. For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches;work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. From the 3rd row, always miss the laststitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this mannertill the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. From the40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. The ground iscompleted with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the _cross-wayside_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk tothe 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round theground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge atthe sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th, 14th, [Illustration: 315. --Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress. ]18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each ofthe 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1stitch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase _once_, onthe cross-way side, seven times in all. This forms the 1st round of theedging or lace. [Illustration: 316. --Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu. ] 2nd round of the lace: In each stitch make 2 stitches--still on thelarger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed inlast row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop. Keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds. For the last round, work 1 stitch in each _tight_ loop. * * * * * _317. --Lady's Knitted Purse. _ Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto;black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5steel knitting-needles. [Illustration: 317. --Lady's Knitted Purse. ] This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamentedwith black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the purse with the blacksilk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7stitches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a mannerthat the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1ststitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * Onthat side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chainof the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on aseparate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitchesof several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to behindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part iscompleted, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on anotherneedle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1stpart, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedgestitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which thebeads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st rowfrom the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in allthe other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with thenext stitch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover, excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in aftercasting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked byinserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silkwhich has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch sothat it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row, the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch. When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts onthe selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in, but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 timesmore alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black partshave been completed cast off the stitches of the last black parttogether with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; thestitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together withthe selvedge stitches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to beworked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Thengather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches andselvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed onthe sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first onthe stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 rowknitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rowsbackwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must beknitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner, casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all theremaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration;also the clasp and bead tassel. * * * * * 318 to 320. --_Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle Cover. _ Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool. [Illustration: 318. --Square for Antimacassar. ] This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than fullsize, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knittedseparately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles. In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. Theedge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. Foreach rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rowsbackwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on oneside and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, thefirst stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first fiveselvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the sidewhere the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present), inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the selvedgestitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains, therefore, unworkedupon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the firstrow is knitted, and in this row work 2 stitches in the first stitch, onepurled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six stitcheswide. Repeat 8 times more from *. After having worked several parts, thestitches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not toincrease the number of needles. When the 10th part is com-* *pleted, take the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on aseparate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the firstpart, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches on theright hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, andwork on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row isknitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and inevery following _knitted_ row, knit the last stitch together with thenext stitch of the next violet part. When 10 such grey parts arecompleted (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and beginswith one knitted row), take all the stitches and the selvedge stitchesof these parts on four needles and knit with these stitches, also withgrey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must bedecreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch; eachof the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows with violetwool, and cast off. [Illustration: 319. --Rosette for Antimacassar. ] [Illustration: 320. --Part of Antimacassar. ] For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey woola circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10thsof an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. The circle is sewnon the rosette, from illustration, with grey wool. No. 319 shows such arosette full size. The small squares (_see_ No. 318) are worked withgrey wool; cast on 36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, andpurl 2 rows. To form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches afterevery 7 stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second roundknit together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings andthose of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places asin the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; inthe first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together after intervals of 5stitches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; inthe 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5thand 7th rows 4 times 2 stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, theremaining stitches are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten thewool and cut it off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together fromNo. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of greywool. * * * * * [Illustration: 321. --Knitted Border. ] 321. --_Knitted Border. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's No. 10 or No. 50 knittingcotton. If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimminga quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used, the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl. To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6 rowsbackwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and purling 2. In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the 2 areknitted. 7th row: * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *. 8th row: Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with _even_ numbersare knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted stitchesare increased by 2 in each of them. We will not, therefore, henceforthmention these rows. 9th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from*. 11th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from*. 13th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from*. The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formedbetween the ribs are increased by 2 stitches in every second row. Eachof these gores has 13 stitches in the 21st row, which is the last. Castoff all the stitches after this row. Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for theknitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of theselvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: Alternately1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1. 2nd row: Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl(that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the first), under which miss 1. Over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet. The border is now completed. * * * * * 322. --_Knee-cap in Knitting. _ Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. Pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a smallquantity of white ditto. Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches, equallydivided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. Upon this numberof stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. In the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is workedseparately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting andpurling 2 stitches. [Illustration: 322. --Knee-cap in Knitting. ] After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares Knit thefirst row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from the last row onto a separate needle. At the end of each following row knit the neareststitch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 stitch in each row ofthe gore. Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed part. After this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once atthe beginning and end of each row till only 26 stitches remain; thentake up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 stitches, and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet. With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work 1 row ofcrochet _à tricoter_; then work a second row thus: the first part, asusual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between eachstitch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting. * * * * * 323. --_Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool. _ Material: Black Shetland wool. This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern(commencing at the corner). 1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into theback part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 2nd row: Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the woolforward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the nextrow the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course beincreased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures atthe upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; thelower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knittedlace. [Illustration: 323. --Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool. ] The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Caston 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. 2nd row: Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed inthe preceding row by throwing the wool forward. 3rd row; Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw thewool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5. 4th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed inthe preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13. 5th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw thewool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. 6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwingthe wool forward in preceding row, purl 9. 7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw thewool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4. 8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwingthe wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13. 9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. 10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing thewool forward in preceding row, purl 5. 11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the woolforward in preceding row, purl 13. 13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. 14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed bythrowing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5. 15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3. 16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed bythrowing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. 17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. 18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed bythrowing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9. 19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twicealternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5. 20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed bythrowing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. 21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. 22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed bythrowing the wool forward in preceding row. 23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 7. 24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficientlylong. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knittedsomewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchiefis knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawnthrough the knot. * * * * * _324 and 325. --Knitted Bodice without Sleeves. _ Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silkelastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons. This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, sothat the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other. The bodice fits quite close. It is fastened in front with black bonebuttons and a steel buckle. Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in atthe bottom. Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and caston 170 stitches. The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting nottoo loose. Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1ststitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were goingto purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the stitch whichhas been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward, slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. In the25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before. [Illustration: 324. --Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back). ] [Illustration: 325. --Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front). ] Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but asthe wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knittedand purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. Thefollowing 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch, only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with thestitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work, with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side withblack wool knitted brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all inthe same manner, begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon threeneedles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches foreach front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side ofthe work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch;the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrownforward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this stitch begin the gorewith the following 13 stitches. The ribs are then worked so that apurple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. Donot work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch withthe one formed by throwing the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, andthen only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comesbehind the stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of thestitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch togetherwith the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the woolforward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following singleblack stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing thewool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knittedtogether, so that the crossed stitches are placed in oppositedirections. The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and arecontinued in a straight line to the point of the gore. The crossingtakes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slippedfirst. After the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with thestitch formed by throwing the wool forward. Then continue to work incommon brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore beginsbefore the 24th stitch from the end. In the next row, which is worked inpurled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop betweentwo purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitchwhich is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the precedingrow are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwingthe wool forward between the ribs. The loop is also taken up on theother side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the otherfront part. Then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. Thecrossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on theknitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of thegore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, sothat the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitchesonly must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row anotherdecreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for theneck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from thefront edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to the neck arecast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. Then cast offloosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of thefront on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with blackwool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. On the wrong sideof this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round inbutton-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. Thefollowing scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round thearmholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the needles, work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread thewool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together, draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches onthe wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. Sew on the buttons thestrips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom, and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle. _326. --Baby's Boot. _ Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool;steel knitting-needles. This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock inwhite wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upperscalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, dividethem on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2ndrounds: With red wool, purled. 3rd to 8th round: With white wool. 3rd round: Knitted. 4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the woolforward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *. 5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward areknitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasingof the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to bedecreased in this round. 6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th. 8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left. 9th to 11th round: With red wool. 9th round: Knitted. 10th and 11th rounds: Purled. 12th to 30th round: With white wool. 12th round: Knitted. 13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting theneedle in the back part of the stitch. 31st to 33rd round: With red wool. 31st round: Knitted. 32nd round and 33rd round: Purled. 34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted. 35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Eachstitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch inthe next round. 36th to 38th round: With red wool. 36th round: Knitted. 37th and 38th rounds: Purled. 39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as ifyou were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slippedstitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches. [Illustration 326. --Baby's Boot. ] Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitchesuntouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50throw: With red wool. 48th row: Knitted. 49th row: Purled. 50th row: Knitted. 51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39thround. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knitand purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the endof the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85throw, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with redwool. 86th row: Knitted. 87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl2, knit 1. Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number ofstitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividingthem with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more inrounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 roundpurled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together inthe middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every otherround decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between thedecreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings formslanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, byknitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock partis edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the redstitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside;then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-workrow in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels tomatch. * * * * * 327. --_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's No. 8 white knitting cotton;thick steel pins. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows: 5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together. Then 5 more plain rows. [Illustration 327. --Knitted Border for a Bedquilt. ] Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit astitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and fromright to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times morethan from * to the end of the row. 2nd row: Purled. 3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row. 4th row: The same as the second. The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. Theincreasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeatedin each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisionsincrease, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the otherhand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtainthis result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, sothat each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, sothat there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; thesestitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31strow they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in eachdivision three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34throw. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border. * * * * * 328. --_Knitted Quilt. _ Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles. This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and inthat case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt maybe composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of onerow being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, thatis if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if widestrips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our patternwas worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip isknitted the short way. [Illustration: 318. --Knitted Quilt. ] For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches. 2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2. 3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the precedingrow, and purl all those that were made. 4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 timesmore; knit 1, make 1, purl 2. 5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest. 6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 timesmore; knit 2, make 1, purl 2. 7th row: The same as the 5th. 8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on. 9th row: The same as the 5th row. 10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch overthe knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *. 11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest. 12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitchover, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *. 13th row: The same as the 11th. 14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitchover, purl 4, and repeat. 15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more;knit 2 together, knit 2. The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 inthis 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitchesinstead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, andwhen you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim thequilt all round with a knotted fringe. * * * * * 329. --_Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera Caps, Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &c. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 20, orfine wool. Cast on an uneven number of stitches. 1st row: Slip 1, *make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from *. 2nd row:Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row. [Illustration: 329. --Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &c. ] * * * * * 330 _and_ 331. --_Knitted Veil. _ Material: Fine Shetland wool. [Illustration: 330. --Knitted Veil. ] Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The originalwas worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged witha knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. Work theveil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that ofillustration 330. Compare the paper shape often with the knitting inthe course of the work, and try to keep them alike. Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern ofillustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of theveil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work the 1strow: * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeatfrom *. 2nd row: Purled. 3rd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw thewool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *. 4th row: Purled. 5th row: Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be reversed. The patternfigures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the endof each row. The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:--1strow: Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2together. 2nd row: Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward inthe last row. When the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it overpaper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the followinglace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st. 2nd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9. 3rd row: Knitted. 4th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, knit 4. 5th row: Knitted. 6th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3. 7th row: Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10. 8th row: Knitted. [Illustration: 331. Pattern of Veil. ] [Illustration: 332. --Knitted Pattern with Embroidery. ] * * * * * 332. --_Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 8 or 20. This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thickor fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. Thestar-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in_point de poste_. Cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitchesare necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * Knit 11stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. Repeat from *, The 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in thisrow, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted withthe cotton thrown forward _after_ the stitch, the last stitch of a plainsquare with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. Thenumber of stitches in the last must always be 8. The pattern consistsalternately of these two rows. Each pattern contains 12 rows, with the13th the squares are reversed. The star figures are embroidered withdouble cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square;draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square. * * * * * 333 _and_ 334. --_Knitted Table Cover, (see page 578. )_ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's coarse knitting cotton; thicksteel knitting-needles. [Illustration: 333. --Table-Cover Border. ] This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as thepattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable forantimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 2nd round: Entirely knitted. 3rd round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7 times more from*. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain. Until after the 21stround, we shall not mention this any more. 5th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From the 7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increaseby 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches betweenthose formed by throwing the cotton forward. 13th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2together *. 15th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *. 17th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *. 19th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, *. 21st round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 *. 22nd round: * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3*. 23rd round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward, knit 3 *. 24th round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *. 25th round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throwthe cotton forward, knit 4. 26th round: Entirely knitted *. 27th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cottonforward, knit 1 *. 28th round: Entirely knitted. 29th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 *. 30th round: Entirely knitted. 31st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cottonforward, knit 3 *. 32nd round: Entirely knitted. 33rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cottonforward, knit 4 *. 34th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5*. 35th round: * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cottonforward, knit 5 *. 36th round: * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6*. 37th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw thecotton forward, knit 1 *. 38th round: * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8*. 39th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cottonforward, knit 3. Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 *. 40th round: * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*. 41st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw thecotton forward, knit 3 *. 42nd round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4*. 43rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw thecotton forward, knit 4 *. 44th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5*. When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the followingborder worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row, slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cottonforward, knit 2. 2nd row: Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after every pattern row. 3rd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 5th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 7th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 9th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 11th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 13th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cottonforward, knit 2. 15th round: Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 16th round: Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st row, knit asufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on theouter edge. [Illustration: 335. --Looped Knitting. ] * * * * * 335. --_Looped Knitting. _ Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flatwooden mesh. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain. 2_nd Row_. --Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch, and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch;place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the woolwhich is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle sothat it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. Thenonly the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insertthe needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained. Knit the last stitch without a loop. 3_rd Row_. --Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit oneplain row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attainthe same number of stitches as in the 1st row. 4_th Row_. --Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often as required. This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats. * * * * * [Illustration: 336. --Pattern for Comforters. ] 336. --_Knitted Pattern for Comforters. _ Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches. 1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit3 stitches together, repeat from *. 2nd row: Plain knitting. 3rd row: Purled. 4th row: Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed onthe one formed by knitting 3 stitches together. * * * * * 337. --_Knitted D'Oyley. (See page 579. )_ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 36; glazedembroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles. This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The middle partas well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn onto the middle part. The spots in the thick parts are worked inafterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern in the centre, caston 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds. 3rd round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward. 4th and 5th rounds: Plain. 6th round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward. 7th round: Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall not mention theseplain rounds any more. 8th round: Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throwthe cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 10th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together. 12th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together. 14th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together. 16th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together. The 18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; onlythe middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches inevery pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24thround between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same bythrowing the cotton forward. 26th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throwthe cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2together. 28th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throwthe cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. 32nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward. 34th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward. 36th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit1, throw the cotton forward. 38th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward. 40th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit1, throw the cotton forward. 42nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw thecotton forward. 44th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward. 45th and 46th rounds: Plain, then cast off loosely. For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards andforwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--1st row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 11. 3rd row: Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cottonforward, knit 1. 4th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 9. 5th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 6th row: Knit 2 together (knit together the stitch and the next stitchformed by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 10. 7th row: Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together (stitch formed bythrowing the cotton forward and the next stitch). 8th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12. 9th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 10th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit14. 11th row: Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw thecotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again on the 2nd row, andwork on till the border is long enough; sew the lace on to the centre, slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work in the spots with glazed orcoarse embroidery cotton. * * * * * _338. --Knitted Braces_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 8 or 12. These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; thebraces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knittedplain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chainof 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and forwards, then dividethe stitches into two halves to form the button-hole; knit 15 rows oneach of the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitchesagain on one needle and work 17 rows on them. Then work a secondbutton-hole like the first one; knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 atthe end of every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of thelappet is 20. Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as follows:--Knitfirst 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first following patternrow, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitchesalways as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat 5times more from *; the last stitch is knitted. 2nd row of the pattern: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2; the stitch whichhas been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward isslipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat 5 times more from *; knitthe last stitch. 3rd row: Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and in all thefollowing rows, knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it, which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cottonforward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1; repeat from *; knit the laststitch. 4th row: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch which has beenformed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1, knitthe last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the braces are long enough. The pattern is 19 inches long. Then knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 atthe end of every row, then work each lappet separately, dividing thestitches so that each lappet is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72rows; after the first 18 rows make a button-hole as described for thepreceding one. Work 18 rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. Thelappets are rounded off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole. [Illustration: 338. --Knitted Braces. ] * * * * * 339. --_Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &c. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 8. This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles, according tothe thickness of the cotton used. The number of stitches must bedivided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards and forwards. [Illustration: 339. --Pattern for Knitted Curtains. ] 1st row: All plain. 2nd row: * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch overthe knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2. Repeat from *. 3rd row: Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in preceding row, *make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make 2, purl 3. Repeatfrom *. (By _make_ 2 is meant twist the cotton twice round the needle, which forms one long stitch, and is knitted or purled as such in nextrow. ) 4th row: Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitchover, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5. Repeat from *. 5th row: Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2, purl 7. Repeatfrom*. 6th row: Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long stitch), make 2, knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (theknitted stitch is a _long stitch_), knit 5. Repeat from *. Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th row;the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun (comparethe two rows) about the middle of the 2nd row, so as to change theplaces of the thick diamonds in the following pattern. This will beeasily understood in the course of the work. * * * * * _340. --Knitted Insertion. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 20 or 30. Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards, asfollows:--1st row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throwcotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18 times more; the stitchformed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch. 20th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next 3 stitchesupon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first 2 of the 3stitches which have been left; knit the last of the 3 together with thenext stitch on the needle, throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20rows till strip is long enough. [Illustration: 340. --Knitted Insertion. ] * * * * * 341 _and_ 342. --_Knitted Cover for Sofa Cushion. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 12; eightply fleecy wool. [Illustration: 341. --Stitch for Sofa Cover. ] This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey calico; itis covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey crochet cotton. The knitted cover has an open-work pattern, worked backwards andforwards on a number of stitches which can be divided by 2, and whichmust suit the width of the cushion, in the following manner:--1st row:Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row: Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch formed by throwingthe cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch. 3rd row: Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. Repeatfrom *; after the last decreasing knit 1. 4th row: Like the 2nd row. These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently large. Drawa narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other open-work row ofthe pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341. When the cushion hasbeen covered with the knitting, it is edged all round with a borderknitted the long way, in the above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14rows wide, and also trimmed with worsted braid: a fringe of grey cottonand red wool, 3 1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at thebottom of the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, bywhich the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. Thecushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for gardenchairs. [Illustration: 342. --Sofa Cushion. ] * * * * * 343. --Netted Nightcap. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's crochet cotton No. 12. This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuringthree-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the centreof the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and work backwards and forwards 27rows with the same number of stitches. Then work 34 rounds round thissquare, and fasten the cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the frontborder, and 24 stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edgeof the cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in95 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; eachstring is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in everyrow. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the cap; theremaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are trimmed withcrochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311. [Illustration: 343. --Netted Nightcap. ] * * * * * 344. --_Netted Nightcap_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton, 3-thread, No. 30. [Illustration: 344. --Netted Nightcap. ] This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two similarthree-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double triangle;the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in illustration, andfastened on the lower half of the same. The cap is edged with a lace; asimilar lace covers the seam between both parts of the cap. The patternis worked with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of aninch round. Begin each half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and workbackwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till the number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, andtrim the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343)with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble stitches--thetreble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1 row of double, always working 4 double round the chain stitches which divide 2 treblein the preceding row, or with netted edging No. 311. * * * * * 345. --_Knitted Pattern_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's knitting cotton No. 20 forcouvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts. This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is suitable formany purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, divided by 18, for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throwthe cotton forward knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *. 2nd row: The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled as well as thestitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the purled stitches areknitted. This row is repeated alternately, therefore we shall notmention it again. 3rd row: * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw thecotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2. 5th row: Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6. 7th row: Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. 9th row: Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. 11th row: * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 13th row: Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, * knit 4, purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together. 15th row: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cottonforward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6. The knitting can nowbe easily continued from illustration. [Illustration: 345. --Knitted Pattern. ] * * * * * 346 _to_ 348. --Knitted Shawl. Materials: Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles. [Illustration: 346. --Pattern for Shawl (348). ] [Illustration: 347. --Pattern for Shawl (348). ] This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347. Bothillustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to beclearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on asufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must notbe too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic. Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern No. 346, which is worked in the following manner:--1st row: Slip the firststitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part ofthe stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward;repeat from *. 2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the woolforward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the nextrow the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together. When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and thenwork the pattern seen on No. 347, which forms the ground, and is workedin the following way:--1st row: Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throwthe wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one. 2nd row, entirely purled. When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows ofthe open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No. 347); each first stripeis at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe ata distance of 20 stitches. After the 9th open-work row, work again 6rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and thenbegin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl thenarrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wideinner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wideand one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes inthe ground pattern. Knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarletwool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep. [Illustration: 348. --Knitted Shawl. ] * * * * * TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS & Co. 'sKNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS. |------------------|-----------------------------|| | No. ||------------------|-----------------------------||Borders | 20, 80 ||Couvrettes | 8 ||D'Oyleys | 80, 100 ||Edgings | 16, 30 ||Insertions | 30, 50 ||Nightcaps | 20 ||Quilts | 4, 8, 12 ||Socks | 20 ||Table Covers | 16 ||------------------------------------------------| MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS. ALPHABETS. * * * * * 349. --_Alphabet_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin stitch, and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars ornament this veryeffective alphabet. [Illustration: 349. --Alphabet (Capitals). ] 350. --_Alphabet (Small Letters)_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well aspocket-handkerchiefs. It is worked in satin stitch, the stars in fineovercast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star. [Illustration: 350. --Alphabets (Small Letters)] 351. --_Alphabet of Small Capitals_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 12 forlinen. No. 18 for handkerchiefs. These letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they may beworked either in green, red, or white cotton. The letters are worked inraised satin stitch with raised dots and open eyelet-holes. [Illustration: 351. --Alphabet of Small Capitals. ] 352. --_Alphabet_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 12. This pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and veined;the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and leaves. Raised dotsworked in satin stitch form all the fine lines. [Illustration: 352. --Alphabet in Satin Stitch. ] 353. --Alphabet in Coral Stitch. Material: Coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk, orfiloselle. The letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable forpocket-handkerchiefs. The embroidery is worked either with markingcotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines areworked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch, theremaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be distinctlyseen in illustration. [Illustration: 353. --Alphabet in Coral Stitch. ] 354--- Small Alphabet. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts andornamented with tendrils. As the alphabet of capitals (page 377, No. 351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name may be workedfrom them. [Illustration: 354. --- Alphabet of Small Letters. ] 355. --Alphabet (Capitals). Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and20. This alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines beingpartly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked inovercast, embroidery cotton No. 20 should be employed. [Illustration: 355. --Alphabet in Satin Stitch. ] 356. Alphabet (Capitals). Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. The alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the gracefulflowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well as thevariously-sized dots which ornament the letters. [Illustration: 356. --Alphabet (Florid Capitals). ] 357--Alphabet. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and16. The letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an outlinein fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch. The ornamentalwreaths round the first five letters can of course be worked round anyof the others. It is very fashionable to work one letter only uponhandkerchief corners. [Illustration: 357. --Alphabet in paint d'or. ] 358. --_Alphabet in White Embroidery_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16 This alphabet is worked in appliqué; the ears of corn only are worked inovercast, satin, and knotted stitch. These letters look particularlywell on transparent materials. The ears may be omitted by beginners, though they add much to the beauty of the alphabet. To this alphabet areadded the ten numerals, which will be found exceedingly useful. By meansof the whole alphabet and all these figures, any combination of initialsand numbers can be made. [Illustration: 358. --Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery. ] 359. --_Alphabet (see page_ 402). Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20; veryfine black silk. The vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful alphabet areworked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the tendrils in pointrusse; for these the fine black silk is employed. * * * * * 360. --_Sampler (Frontispiece_). Materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sEmbroidery Cotton Nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and black silk. This illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful forlearning to embroider letters for marking linen. The material used iscambric muslin or fine linen. Work the embroidery with white embroiderycotton, red cotton, or black silk. The thick parts of the letters areworked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch; the outlines of thestitched parts are worked in overcast, as well as the fine outlines ofthe letters and all the fine outlines of the patterns. The monograms andcrowns are worked in a similar manner. Work button-hole stitch round theoutside of the sampler. The letters and crowns may, of course, beemployed for other purposes. * * * * * 361. --_Alphabet (Capitals)_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20 This effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches employedbeing raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. The raised dots areworked in satin stitch, care being taken to preserve their position inthe _centre_ of each open space. [Illustration: 361. --Alphabet (Capitals). ] * * * * * MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS. * * * * * [Illustration: 362. --Alice. ] 362. --_Alice_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. The letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very simple, being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial letter is workedin raised satin stitch, point de poste, and overcast. 363. --_Amalie_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and20. [Illustration: 363. --Amalie. ] The highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work, requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering thetendrils and eyelet-holes. The veinings of the letter must be carefullydefined. The remainder of the name is executed in plain satin stitch, afew eyelet-holes being introduced. "Amalie" can easily be altered into "Amelia" by changing the place ofthe _a_ and _e_. In the centre of each letter a large eyelet-hole isplaced; smaller eyelet-holes of graduated sizes occupy parts of theovercast scrolls, which should be worked with No. 20 cotton. The initialletter is worked in raised satin stitch. [Illustration: 364. --Amy. ] 364. --_Amy_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and pointde pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant little designbeneath is worked in point russe. 365. --_Annie_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. [Illustration: 365. --Annie. ] The letter _A_ of this name is rather elaborate, and is worked in pointde pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine overcast, the letters insatin stitch. The ornaments surrounding the word "Annie" are worked inovercast. 366. --_A. M. K. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised satinstitch. The eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in overcast. [Illustration: 366. --A. M. K. ] 367. --_B. R. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. [Illustration: 367. --B. R. ] These initials are worked in appliqué in the centre of a medallion insatin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches. 368. --_Carrie_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. [Illustration: 368. --Carrie. ] This name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simplyembroidered in overcast and satin stitch. The thick dots may be workedwithout the eyelet-holes if preferred. [Illustration: 359. --Caroline. ] 369. --_Caroline_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which adorn theletters must be very well defined; they, as well as the letters, areembroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being veined, and theornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes. 370. --_Charlotte_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. [Illustration: 370. --Charlotte. ] This name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and elegantdots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the large ones areworked in raised satin stitch. 371. --_Cornelie_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in overcaststitch. [Illustration: 371. --Cornelie. ] 372. --_C. M. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and is mostelegant. [Illustration: 372--C. M. ] [Illustration: 373. --Dora. ] 373. --_Dora_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 30. This elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in the art ofembroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and veined satinstitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated overcast; the nameis placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers worked in theabove-named stitches. This pattern, although originally designed to beworked on net or fine muslin, is far more effective when worked oncambric or fine lawn. 374. --_D. C. _ [Illustration: 374. --D. C. ] Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. These letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin stitch; theforget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a smalleyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch. 375. --_Emily_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. Thisname is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in point deposte, the rest of the letters in satin stitch and in dotted satinstitch. [Illustration: 375. --Emily. ] 376. --_Ernestine_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This elegant design is most effective; the first letter very elaborate;the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch. The small starsare worked in overcast stitch, and the initial letter itself in veinedsatin stitch. [Illustration: 376. --Ernestine. ] 377. --_Etta_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 10. The letters which compose this name are formed entirely of leaves, flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and overcast; thetendrils which surround the name are worked in overcast, and have a feweyelet-holes placed among them. [Illustration: 377. --Etta. ] 378. --_Eva_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and20. This name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable; theveinings are worked in raised satin stitch. [Illustration: 378. --Eva. ] 379. --_E. A. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's White and Red Embroidery CottonNo. 30. This very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of embroidery. The design represents the emblems of Faith, Hope, and Charity. Theoutlines of the shield and cross are worked in overcast, the initials"E. A. , " the torch, and the anchor in satin stitch with white cotton, theleaves partly in satin stitch with white and partly in point d'or withred cotton, with only a fine outline in overcast. The cross and theflames of the torch are embroidered in the same manner. [Illustration: 379--E. A. ] 380. --_E. A. P. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. These pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middleletter in point russe and point de poste. [Illustration: 380. --E. A. P. ] 381. --_E. P. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. These elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satinstitch. [Illustration: 381. --E. P. ] [Illustration: 382. --E. R. ] 382. --_E. R. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 30. The ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, theletters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch andovercast. [Illustration: 383. --E. A. ] 383. --_E. A. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. These initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked insatin stitch and overcast, and in appliqué on muslin. For thatpart of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered thematerial is taken double. 384. --_Elisabeth_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. This word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. Afew small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, andgive lightness to this name. [Illustration: 384. --Elisabeth. ] 385. --_Elise_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and 16. The open part of these letters is ornamented by one or moredots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked inNo. 12, a rather coarser cotton. [Illustration: 385. --Elise. ] 386. --_Emma_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be worked withthe eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in satin stitch. Theremaining letters in raised satin stitch and point de sable. [Illustration: 386. --Emma. ] 387. --_F. B. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the insideembroidered with lace. The leaves and tendrils are worked in satinstitch and point de sable. [Illustration: 387. --F. B. ] 388. --_F. S. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and20. The initials "F. S. " are placed in the pages of an open book, theoutlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de pois. The wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered in satinstitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. The initials areworked in fine satin stitch. [Illustration: 388. --F. S. ] 389. --_Fanny. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast. [Illustration: 389. --Fanny. ] 390. --_Francis. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. The initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fineover-casting; the centre star in raised satin stitch with lace in themiddle; the leaves surrounding it in veined satin stitch; the otherletters are worked in plain satin stitch; and the dots of the line inpoint de poste. [Illustration: 390. --Francis. ] 391. --_E. C. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. The initials "E. C. " are worked within a frame of overcast outlines andsatin stitch dots. Vine-leaves and grapes worked in point de pois andeyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the frame. [Illustration: 391. --E. C. ] 392. --_Gordon_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very suitablefor gentlemen's handkerchiefs. [Illustration: 391. --Gordon. ] 393. --_Helene_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. We give the French version of this pretty name, it being easily changedto English "Helen" by omitting the final _e_ in working. The name isworked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised at the thickest parts ofthe letters. [Illustration: 393. --Helene. ] 394. --_H. D. G. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch, andpoint de russe. [Illustration: 394--H. D. G. ] 395--_Jessie. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear and welldefined. The thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts. [Illustration: 395. --Jessie. ] 396. --_J. C. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 12. The letters "J. C. " are worked in raised satin and overcast stitch, thethickest part of each letter being worked in scallops. [Illustration: 396. --J. C. ] 397. --_Lina_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small stars areworked in point russe round eyelet-holes. [Illustration: 397. Lina. ] 398. --_Lizzie_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised dots andfine overcast; the letters are in the Greek style, and have an excellenteffect if well worked. [Illustration: 398. --Lizzie. ] 399. --_L. G. A. _ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20, andLinen Thread No. 16. Lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses theseletters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de pois, thepens and initials in raised satin stitch, as also the flowers. The openportion is filled in with Mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: Anumber of single threads cross each other in the space to be filled up;these are placed about a quarter of an inch from each other. All thebars in one direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch, then the opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch mustbe continued about six inches past the point where the two lines cross. The thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice, running overand under alternately, so as to form a circle; then work in button-holeto the centre of a quarter of the circle; make a dot by inserting a pinin the next button-hole and working three stitches in the loop thusformed by the pin. These dots may be omitted from these wheels. [Illustration: 399. --L. G. A. ] 400. --_L. C. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. The effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for, althoughsimple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws each intorelief. Veined and raised satin stitch, with very small eyelet-holes, are the stitches used here. [Illustration: 400. --L. C. ] 401. --_Marie_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton Nos. 20 and36. This name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well defined, and the tendrils should be worked with No. 30 cotton, as they requirevery fine work. Stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are the onlyornaments. [Illustration: 401--Marie. ] 402. --_Maria_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 30. The initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point de pois, the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitchand overcast. [Illustration: 402. --Maria. ] 403. --_Maude_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in raisedsatin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in overcast. This workis peculiarly adapted for the marking of a trousseau. [Illustration: 403. --Maude. ] 404. --_M. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred, or thecoronet omitted at will. The letter "M" is worked in raised and veinedsatin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine overcast round aneyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine satin stitch and pointde pois, and stars to correspond with those worked in the letter and inthe wreath below, the leaves of which are worked in satin stitch andovercast stitch. [Illustration: 404. --M. --Handkerchief Corner. ] 405. --_M. B. D. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. These initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open work infine overcast round eyelet-holes. [Illustration: 405. --M. B. D. ] [Illustration: 406. --M. B. G. ] 406. --_M. B. G. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. These elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin stitch andfine overcast with eyelet-holes. [Illustration: 407. --M. H. E. ] 407. --_M. H. E. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the middleletter is done in point croisé. This stitch is only worked on very thinand transparent materials. Insert the needle into the material as forthe common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on theopposite outline of the pattern so as to form on the wrong side aslanting line. Insert the needle again as for common back stitch. 408. --_Natalie. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 30. The initial letter of this word contains all those following, and issurrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are worked insatin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in raised satinstitch. The dots which are represented on the groundwork of the initialare worked in back stitching; these may be worked in scarlet ingraincotton if desired for morning handkerchiefs. [Illustration: 408. --Natalie. ] 409. --_O. R. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. This monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked ineyelet-holes of graduated sizes. [Illustration: 409. --O. R. ] 410. --_Phoebe_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. The first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in satinstitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the letters insatin stitch. [Illustration: 410. --Phoebe. ] 411. --_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton PerfectionnéNo. 20. [Illustration: 411. --Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs] This monogram is worked partly in appliqué, partly in satin stitch. Forthe middle part of the medallion sew on the pattern in appliqué ofcambric with button-hole stitch; the remaining part of the embroidery isworked in satin stitch and point russe. 412. --_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20, andLinen Thread No. 20. This monogram is also worked in appliqué and satin stitch. The circleall round the medallion is worked in appliqué; in the middle work lacestitches from illustration. The edge of the medallion is worked roundwith button-hole stitch. [Illustration: 412. --Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs. ] 413. --_Rosa_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. Here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back stitching, the lower part having a graceful wreath of leaves worked in satinstitch. The letters which form the name are worked in raised andscalloped satin stitch and point de pois. [Illustration: 413. Rosa. ] 414. --_Rosina_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. The stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in raised satinstitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated satin stitch, thestems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in satin stitch and openeyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in overcast, and the stars on thestems to correspond with those worked in the letter: the rest of theletters in simple satin stitch rather thickly raised. [Illustration: 414. --Rosina. ] 415. --_R. S. _ Materials: Black china silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's EmbroideryCotton No. 16. These letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of pointrusse worked in black silk. [Illustration: 415. --R. S. ] 416. --_S. E. B. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 16. These letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre star isworked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it aseyelet-holes. [Illustration: 416. --S. E. B. ] 417. --_L. E. P. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 18. These initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant starsare worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole. [Illustration: 417. --L. E. P. ] 418. --_Victoria_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Embroidery Cotton No. 20. This name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch, over-casting andeyelet-holes. The initial letter is worked in satin stitch, and thestars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole. [Illustration: 418. --Victoria. ] * * * * * POINT LACE WORK. Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion orpillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or _points_ worked inpatterns by hand, which are joined by various stitches forming agroundwork, also the result of the needle above. Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the pattern andground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is sometimescorrectly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that thedistinction has never been very nicely observed either by lace-workersor lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow lace being calledpoint, on account of some peculiarity in the stitch or pattern. The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the dexterity andtaste of the workers, and the goodness of the material. To produce manybeautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity alone suffices, but inlace-making the worker must have some artistic talent, even whensupplied with designs, for any one can perceive that deviations from thedesign are easily made, and that the slightest alteration by a workerwanting in taste will spoil the whole piece of workmanship. The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern lacesfrom Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:-- [Illustration: 419. --Dalecarlian Lace. ] [Illustration: 420. --Old Mechlin. ] [Illustration: 421. --Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's). ] No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia. This isa coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &c. , and, although highlystarched, is never washed, for fear of destroying its coffee-colouredtint, which, it appears, is as much prized now by the Swedish rustics asit was by English ladies in the last century. [Illustration: 422. --Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace). ] Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who muchadmired this elegant lace. No. 423. --The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old Maltese. Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of variousstitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The application ofHoniton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost supersededby this modern guipure. The sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece ofblue paper and united on the pillow with "cutworks" or "purlings, " orelse joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet, point, réseau, cutwork, button-hole, and purling. [Illustration: 423. --Bedford Plaited Lace (1851). ] Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs. BuryPalliser's _History of Lace_ (Sampson Low and Marston). [Illustration: 424. --Honiton Guipure Lace. ] POINT LACE. The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are neithernumerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE CIRÉE, variousBRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or three sizes of needles, scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is required when ladies copy pointlace patterns, and is the most convenient mode of taking them, as thedesign can be worked upon the tracing cloth, which, though transparent, is very strong; the price is 1s. 6d. Per yard. Fine LEATHER is thematerial upon which bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedlymore pleasant to work on than is any other material. In selectingpatterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather inpreference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight thanany other colour. [Illustration: 425. --Point Lace Scissors. ] TOILE CIRÉE is only a substitute for leather, and is not as pleasant towork upon in warm weather. The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos. 9 and10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in illustrationNo. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in this light work. [Illustration: 426. --Linen Braid. ] [Illustration: 427. --Linen Braid. ] [Illustration: 428. --Linen Braid. ] [Illustration: 429. --Linen Braid. ] [Illustration: 430. --Linen Braid. ] [Illustration: 431. --Linen Braid. ] The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen braidshould be employed; those with machine-made edgings are eschewed by manylace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid of various widths andqualities being alone acceptable to experienced hands. But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the braid, andwill find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No. 429 is a plainlinen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out very prettily. No. 431is an edged braid with open holes, in imitation of the point lace workof the fifteenth century. Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their close, regular smoothness; the price is 1s. Per hank, and they are of variousthicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up to that of athick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament the braid, and areclosely sewn on the braid, following its every outline, and serve as_beading_ to the edging, being always sewn on the outer edge alone. Thefiner kinds of this cord are used in place of braid where very lightwork is needed, as in the point lace alphabet which forms thefrontispiece of this work. Directions for laying on the cord whenemployed as braid are given on page 500. When used as a finish only, andto impart the raised appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixedon the braid by plain, close sewing. The thread used should beMecklenburg linen thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. Westrongly recommend as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; itis pleasant to work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make. The numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36, and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch. No. 2is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size. In working point lace the following directions must be attended to:Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not otherwisedirected, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the braid run a fewstitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins should be avoided, butwhen a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turnback the ends, and stitch each portion down separately. When passing thethread from one part to another, run along the centre of the braid, allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. In commencing, makea few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side andcutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-holestitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cutoff. Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to lay on thebraid. [Illustration: 442. --Mode of Placing the Braid. ] TO PLACE THE BRAID. --No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper ortracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or toilecirée. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with finestitches, working as shown from left to right. Take another piece ofbraid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by"running" stitches in its centre, keeping it as smooth and even aspossible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge willnot lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, asfollows:--Thread a No. 9 needle with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20inches long, fasten the thread to one point, and insert the needle inand out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this threadwhen drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fasteningoff stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or roundedcurve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering threadremains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of itsstructure. As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of placingthe braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this part of thework, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many fancy shops nowundertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can have their own patternbraided and commenced or braided alone at trifling expense. Among thesemay be mentioned the following houses:--Goubaud, 30, Henrietta-street, Covent-garden. Boutillier, Oxford-street, W. The stitches used in point lace may be divided into-- STITCHES PROPER, or _points_. CONNECTING BARS. FINISHING EDGINGS. WHEELS, ROSETTES. The term point lace, or lace stitches (_points_), has of late beenapplied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread, and manystitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there are more thanone hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art, much study andopportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is required to give anovice any idea of the various kinds of point lace; but by attention tothe following stitches the rudiments of the art may be easily acquiredand very beautiful lace produced. The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch. Thisstitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a simplebutton-hole stitch worked loosely and with great regularity. The wholebeauty of Brussels lace depends upon the evenness of the stitches. Thisstitch is sometimes employed as an edging, but is more often worked inrows backwards and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces, as in the point lace collar, No. 496. [Illustration: 433. Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace). ] [Illustration: 434. --Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows). ] Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace stitches. POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left to right, like Brussels point. Work one loose button-hole, and in this stitchwork four button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loosebutton-hole stitch, then four more tight button-hole stitches in theloose one, repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off. [Illustration: 435. --Point de Venise (Venice Point). ] [Illustration: 436. --Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point). ] PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the same manneras Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loosebutton-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling smallspaces. [Illustration: 437. --Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point). ] No. 437. --POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to rightas follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping thethread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the loop formed bythe thread (see illustration No. 437); the needle must pass from theback of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bringit out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces thecord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten tothe braid and return by sewing back, inserting the needle once in everyopen stitch. [Illustration: 438. --Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point). ] No. 438. --POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as openpoint d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to passthrough in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left to right;fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back to the leftagain. No. 439. --TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same way asthe open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in illustration No. 439. Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each row. Sewback, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one open, thenclose to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care thatthe close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars, and various patterns may be formed with this stitch. [Illustration: 439. --Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point). ] No. 440. --POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is workedbackwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose point deBruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one Brussels, threepoint d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning work back in thesame manner. [Illustration: 440. --Point de Grecque (Grecian Point). ] No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch). --This stitchappears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left handand work six point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distance, everyalternate stitch being larger. 2nd row: Upon the first large or longstitch work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point deBruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so onto the end of row (right to left). [Illustration: 441. --Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch). ] 3rd row: 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point deBruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, l short, 5 close, 1 short, and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rowsuntil sufficient of the pattern is worked. [Illustration: 442. --Point d'Alençon, with Twisted Stitch. ] No. 442. POINT D'ALENÇON. --This stitch is used to fill up narrow spaceswhere great lightness is required. Point d'Alençon is worked under andover in alternate stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show pointd'Alençon. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the plain pointd'Alençon, which is clearly shown in No. 443; this twist is made bypassing the thread three times round each plain bar, and working theknot shown in illustration No. 442 over _both_ strands of the bar. [Illustration: 443. --Point d'Alençon, with Button-hole Stitch. ] The POINT D'ALENÇON No. 443 is a festoon of close button-hole stitchworked over the plain bars. [Illustration: 444. --Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace). ] No. 444. --POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace). --Open English Lace isthus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread aboutone-eighth of an inch apart, then form cross lines, intersecting thosealready made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosetteon every spot where two lines cross, by working over and under the twolines about 16 times round, then twist the thread twice round thegroundwork thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossingthreads. No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged. [Illustration: 445. --Point d'Angleterre (Enlarged). ] No. 446, --POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch). --This easy and effective stitchlooks well for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employedshould be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to befilled. 1st row: Work a loop, bringing the thread from right to left, passing the needle through the twist and through the loop, draw up tightand repeat. 2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Workthe same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, andpassing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown inillustration No. 446. [Illustration: 446. --Point Turque. ] No. 447. --CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches. Itresembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked in asimilar manner over and under the side of squares formed by straight andparallel lines. (See No. 448. ) [Illustration: 447. --Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch). ] No. 448. --POINT DE REPRISE. --This stitch is worked by darning over andunder two threads, forming a triangle. The space is filled by paralleland cross-way bars, placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thusproduced point de reprise is worked. [Illustration: 448. --Point de Reprise. ] No. 449. --POINT BRABANÇON (Brabançon Lace) is worked as follows:--Leftto right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short loose, point de Bruxellesalternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7 tight point de Bruxelles in the 1long loose stitch, 2 short loose point de Bruxelles in the short loosestitch of previous row, repeat. 3rd row: Same as first. [Illustration: 449. --Point Brabançon (Brabançon Lace). ] [Illustration: 450. --Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch). ] [Illustration: 451. --Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise. ] No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not imitated, andis very effective. It is begun in the corner or crosswise of the spaceto be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken andfastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown inillustration, and worked in rows backwards and forwards as follows:--1point de Bruxelles stitch; before proceeding to the next stitch pass theneedle _under_ the knot, _over_ the thread, and again _under_ it, asshown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked. No. 451 shows point de fillet applied in filling a space, with a fewstitches of point de reprise worked upon this pretty groundwork. No. 452. --POINT DE TULLE. --This stitch is used as a groundwork for veryfine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in the samestitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is completed thework is gone over a second time, by inserting the needle under onetwisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at +, and bringing it outagain at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is veryeffective. [Illustration: 452. --Point de Tulle. ] No. 453. --MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels). --This is one of the prettieststitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to workcorrectly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of diagonal bars inbutton-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin inthe opposite side the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spotwhere the two lines cross, pass the thread round the cross twice underand over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch halfone quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead ofdrawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loopheld open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before. Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on thewheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal andparallel lines of thread. [Illustration: 453. --Mechlin Lace Wheels. ] No. 454. --ESCALIER LACE. --This useful lace may be varied in pattern toany extent by placing the open stitches in any desired order; it thentakes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according to the design. Trueescalier lace is made by working nine button-hole stitches closetogether; then miss 3--that is, work none in the space that 3 stitcheswould occupy--work 9, miss 3 as before to the end of row, begin the 2ndrow 3 stitches from the end, to cause the open spaces to fall indiagonal lines--a succession of steps or stairs (_escalier_), whichgives name to this stitch. [Illustration: 454. --Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds. ] No. 455. --SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised scrolls, flowers, &c. This is effected by working over an underlay of coarsewhite thread or over fine white linen cords. The wheels are worked bywinding soft coarse linen thread round pencils or smooth knitting-pinsof various sizes, and working over the circle thus obtained a successionof close button-hole stitches. These wheels are sewn on to the lace whencompleted. The groundwork of Spanish lace is usually worked in what arecalled Raleigh Bars (see page 477), but this lace has sometimes forgroundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this handsome laceis to trace the design upon very fine good linen; raise the thick partsas above directed, and embroider the whole in fine thick scallopedbutton-hole stitch; fill the ground with Raleigh bars, or, as shown inillustration No. 455, in treble point de Venise, and cut away the linenfrom beneath the groundwork. [Illustration: 455. --Spanish Point Lace (Worked à l'Anglaise). ] WHEELS AND ROSETTES. Wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in combination toform lace. The simplest is-- THE SORRENTO WHEEL. --Nos. 456 and 457. --This is worked by fastening thethread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the letters. Fasten itfirst at the place _a_, then at the place _b_, carrying it back to themiddle of the first formed bar by winding it round, fasten the cotton atthe place _c_, carrying it back again to the centre by winding it roundthe bar, and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as inEnglish lace. See page 462, and illustrations Nos. 456 and 457. [Illustration: 456 and 457. --Sorrento Wheels. ] No. 458. --ENGLISH WHEEL. --This is worked in the same manner as theSorrento wheel, but instead of _winding_ the thread over and under thebars, the needle is inserted under each bar and brought out againbetween the thread and the last stitch; this gives a kind of button-holestitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel. [Illustration: 458. --English Wheel. ] No. 459. --ROSETTE IN POINT D'ANGLETERRE. --This rosette is worked in asomewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the differencebeing that after each stitch passed round and under the bars, the threadis passed loosely round in the reverse direction, as shown inillustration No. 459, before proceeding to make the next stitch. [Illustration: 459. --Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre. ] No. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of braid, andforms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. It is worked upona pattern traced and pricked in small holes at equal distances. Twothreads are employed, one coarse tracing thread, the other of finerthread. The coarse thread is laid on thus:--Pass the needle containingthe fine thread, No. 12, through one of the pricked holes, over thetracing thread and back through the same hole; repeat, following thetraced outline until the whole of the coarse thread is laid over theoutline, then work over in tight button-hole stitch with picots orpurls, as on the Raleigh bars (see page 477). This mode of laying ontracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid and to pointlace cord, as in the alphabet No. 400 (see page 500). [Illustration: 460. --Rosette for centre of Point Lace Circles. ] BARS. The word _Bar_ is applied to the various stitches used to connect thevarious parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the work dependsgreatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to the lace stitchesused. The simplest bar is-- No. 461. --THE SORRENTO BAR. --It is worked from right to left, a straightthread being carried across and fastened with a stitch. The return rowconsists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three ofthese bars are usually placed close together at equal distances betweeneach group. The thread is sewn over the braid in passing from one spotto another. [Illustration: 461. --Sorrento Bars. ] [Illustration: 462. --Sorrento Bars. ] Sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration No. 462. No. 463. --D ALENCON BARS are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, andare only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used asgroundwork bars. The thread is merely passed three times over and underthe point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars beingregulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is completed atight point de Bruxelles stitch is used to fasten off the bar, thethread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch, and asecond bar begun. [Illustration: 463. --D'Alençon Bars. ] [Illustration: 464. --Venetian Bar. ] No. 464. --THE VENETIAN BAR is so simple that it hardly needsdescription. It is worked over two straight threads in reversebutton-hole stitch. No. 465 shows the Venetian bar applied as the"veining" of leaf, and worked upon Sorrento bars. [Illustration: 465. --Venetian Bar. ] No. 466. --VENETIAN BARS are worked so as to form squares, triangles, &c. , in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread. The arrow in theillustration points to the direction for working the next. [Illustration: 466. --- Plain Venetian Bars. ] No. 467. --BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE. --These bars may be worked singlyor to fill up a space, as in illustration. Work rosettes as in pointd'Angleterre, page 461; when each rosette is finished twist the threadup the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then passit under the parallel line running through the centre and over into theopposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting thethreads as in illustration. [Illustration: 467. --Bars of Point d'Angleterre. ] No. 468. --POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED). --Begin at the right hand andstretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening itwith one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work asuccession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. In every third stitchwork one point de Venise stitch. [Illustration: 468. --Point de Venise Bars (Edged). ] No. 469. --We now come to the most important feature of BARS--the _dot, picot_, or _purl_, for by all these names it is known. This dot isworked in various ways upon different lace bars. Dotted point de Venisebars are worked as follow:-- [Illustration: 469. --Dotted Point de Venise Bars. ] Stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight stitchesof point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold itopen and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over thethread, as clearly shown in illustration No. 469, and in this loop workthree tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work five more stitches, and repeat to end of row. [Illustration: 470. --Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar. ] No. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a Sorrento bar worked between rows ofpoint de Bruxelles, three twisted stitches being worked into the loopleft by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitchin appearance. Nos. 471 and 472. --RALEIGH BARS are worked over a foundation or networkof coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily fall into thedesired form. [Illustration: 471. --Raleigh Bars. ] [Illustration 472. --Network for Working Raleigh Bars. ] By following the numbering from No. 1 to 21, in No. 472, a square placemay be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to formgroundwork of any shape desired. Upon this groundwork tight point deBruxelles stitches are worked, and the dot worked upon these in one ofthe following ways:-- DOT or PICOT. --1st Mode: Five tight point de Bruxelles stitches, oneloose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over thethread, as shown in point de Venise bars No. 469, draw up, leaving asmall open loop as in tatting. Work five tight point de Bruxelles andrepeat. 2nd Mode: Proceed as above, but instead of continuing the tightstitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed, andrepeat. 3rd Mode: Work four tight point de Bruxelles stitches, oneloose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three orfour times round the point, as shown in illustration No. 473, press thethumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through thetwists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates mostclosely the real Spanish lace. Illustration No. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied as a_regular_ groundwork, but the beauty of old point groundwork bars is thevariety of form. [Illustration: 473. --Third mode of making Picots or Dots. ] EDGES AND PURL FINISH. The correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art, andcare should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of lace. Sorrento edging should be worked upon Limoges lace. Spanish lacerequires a full rich edge, as shown in No. 478, &c. The simplest edge ispoint de Bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like the stitch No. 433, and is secured by a knot worked in the braid. Many lace-workers omitthis knot. [Illustration: 474. --Point de Bruxelles Edging. ] No. 475. --SORRENTO EDGING is worked with one short and one long stitchalternately. [Illustration: 475. --Sorrento Edging. ] No. 476. --POINT DE VENISE is worked precisely like that stitch (see page456), three and even four stitches being worked in the loop. [Illustration: 476. --Point de Venise Edging. ] No. 477. --POINT D'ANGLETERRE EDGING is worked in point de Bruxelles, thethread being again drawn through the braid before proceeding to the nextstitch. This edging is strong and useful. [Illustration: 477. --Point d'Angleterre Edging. ] No. 478. --POINT D'ESPAGNE EDGING. --This stitch is easily worked. Insertthe point of the needle through the braid and wind the thread round it20 times, draw the needle through these windings and draw the picottight, sew over the braid the space of 3 stitches, and repeat. [Illustration: 478. --Point d'Espagne Edging. ] No. 479. --ANTWERP EDGE. --This edge is only a variety of pointd'Angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the knot;the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed by thepoint de Bruxelles lace. [Illustration: 479. --Antwerp Edge. ] NOTE. --It will be observed that the stitches here given are muchenlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details. PATTERNS. No. 480. --_Star in Point Lace_. Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 20. Trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as directed. Work the centre in Sorrento bars, and on these work a rosette in pointd'Angleterre, the edge in point d'Angleterre edging, and the wheels inopen English lace. [Illustration: 480. --Star in Point Lace. ] * * * * * No. 481. --_Medallion in Point Lace_. Materials: Linen Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburgthread No. 14. This medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of purposes, as trimming for sachets, dresses, &c. Having placed the braid as beforedirected, work an English rosette in the centre, fill in the ground withpoint de fillet or with point de Bruxelles. An edging of Spanish pointcompletes this pretty medallion. [Illustration: 481. --Medallion in Point Lace. ] * * * * * No. 482. --_Point Lace Border_. Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 12. This border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. A pointd'Angleterre rosette is worked in each circle. The plain braid isedged by Sorrento edging. Venice bars are worked above the trimming, andtreble point de Venise edges the border. [Illustration: 482. --Point Lace Border. ] * * * * * No. 483. --_Point Lace Border_. Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 10. This border is both easily and quickly worked in Sorrento bars. The edgeis worked in two rows of point de Bruxelles. [Illustration: 483. --Point Lace Border. ] * * * * * No. 484. --_Insertion in Limoges Lace_. Materials: Plain linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburgthread No. 14. This insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly worked. Edge the braid with Sorrento edging, fill up with bars and plain pointd'Alençon and Sorrento wheels, No. 456. [Illustration: 484. --Insertion in Limoges Lace. ] * * * * * No. 485--_Point Lace Border for Handkerchief. _ Materials: Fine lace braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 24. This border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a squarebodice. The braid is not tacked on by stitches running through thecentre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on by passing athread from underneath over the braid and out through the same hole, asis done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this forms the design. Thestitches employed in this pattern are Raleigh bars, which connect thework; Sorrento edging, which finishes the whole outline; Englishrosettes filling the open spaces. Point lace cord may be used for thisin place of braid. [Illustration: 485. Point Lace Border for Handkerchief. ] * * * * * No. 486. --_Star-Centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace_. Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread Nos. 16 and 12. [Illustration: 486. --Star-centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace. ] This beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than as atoilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--English rosette incentre; Sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with No. 12 thread; pointde Bruxelles ground, worked with No. 16; braid edged by dotted Venetianedges. The eight spaces may be filled with 2 or 4 contrastingstitches, taking care that they contrast well, and are placedalternately, and worked in No. 12. * * * * * [Illustration: 487. --Cravat End in Point Lace. ] 487. --_Cravat End in Point Lace_. Materials: Fine braid: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg threadNo. 12. This cravat is worked in Sorrento wheels, point d'Alençonbars, and Sorrento edging. * * * * * [Illustration: 488. --Point Lace Edging. ] [Illustration: 489. --Point Lace Edging. ] 488 _and_ 489. --_Point Lace Edgings_. Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread Nos. 12 and 16. These edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other trimmingsor for edging couvrettes. No. 488 is worked with Sorrento wheels; theedge in two rows of point de Bruxelles, a straight thread being drawnfrom the end to the beginning of each scallop over which the second rowis worked. No. 489 is worked with the same materials in treble point deVenise, edged by the same, and finished off with a row of point deBruxelles, the upper edge being worked in the same way. * * * * * 490. --_Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c. _ Materials: Linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburgthread Nos. 10 and 16. This design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is extremelyeffective. The principal stitches required are given at the sides of thepattern. _a_ is Valenciennes lace, _b_ Brussels net, _c_ Venetianspotted, _d_ Sorrento edging, _e_ Mechlin wheel, _f_ English rosette, _g_ Raleigh bars. [Illustration: 490. --Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c. ] * * * * * 491. --_Oval for Cravats, &c. _ Materials: Point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; Messrs. WalterEvans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread Nos. 14 and 18. This beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. This isbegun from the centre on the muslin by over-casting the space filled by awheel. The eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin stitch ornamentraised and prepared for working. The edge, of point lace cord, is thenlaid on, and the under portion edged in tight and open point deBruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked in point de Bruxelles. The light groundwork is worked entirely in Mechlin wheels, the satinstitch being worked when these are completed. This pattern can beenlarged and applied to many purposes. The muslin is cut away when thewhole work is finished. [Illustration: 491. --Oval Pattern for Ornamenting Cravats, &c. ] * * * * * 492. --_Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice_. Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or 20. We give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many uses, andthe size of the thread differs with these. The pattern is worked inEnglish rosettes and bars (see No. 467). No. 488 edging looks well withthis pattern. [Illustration: 492. --Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice. ] * * * * * 493--_Point Lace Collar. _ Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 22. [Illustration: 493--Point Lace Collar. ] Set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole prickedin the pattern over the braid and out again through the same hole. Edgethe braid with point de Bruxelles, the design being filled by Mechlinwheels, Sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the mixed stitch shown inNo. 494, which is composed of d'Alençon and Sorrento bars, and is easilyworked. Those who cannot work Mechlin wheels easily, can substituteclose English, as shown in illustration No. 495. The bars are Sorrento. [Illustration: 494. --D'Alençon and Sorrento Bars. ] [Illustration: 495. --Close English Wheels. ] * * * * *[Illustration: 496--Point Lace Collar. ] 496. --_Point Lace Collar. _ Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 22. This collar is worked in the same way as No. 493, though the stitchesvary. The Grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the pattern inclose English wheels, point de reprise, point de Bruxelles, Englishrosettes, and Raleigh bars. * * * * * [Illustration: 497. --Point Lace Lappet. ] 497. --_Point Lace Lappet. _ Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 16 or 24, according to the fineness required. This lappet is exceedingly pretty. It is composed of the followingstitches:--Point d'Alençon, point de tulle, English rosettes, Sorrentobars, d'Alençon bars, dotted Venise bars, and the fancy stitch pointd'Anvers, which is not a true point lace stitch, but which is muchemployed in modern point. [Illustration: 497. --Point Lace Lappet. ] [Illustration: 498. --Point d'Anvers. ] [Illustration: 499. --Point Grecque. ] Point Grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so easilyworked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners. * * * * * [Illustration: 500. --Letter A in Point Lace. ] [Illustration: 501. --Letter A Enlarged. ] _500 to 502. --Alphabet in Point Lace. (See endpapers. )_ Materials: Point lace cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburgthread No. 36. This alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and forinitials for sachets, &c. The cord is laid upon the pattern and prickedout by passing a thread up through a hole over the cord, and backthrough the same hole; then pass on to the next hole, and repeat. Theholes should be about an eighth of an inch apart, or nearer when thepattern is finely convoluted. The letters are worked in point deBruxelles, point d'Alençon, and dotted Sorrento bars. No. 501 shows theletter A greatly enlarged, to show the mode of working. * * * * * TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUSARTICLES WORKED IN POINT LACE. |----------------------------------|-------------------||Caps | 36 " " ||Collars | 30 " " ||Couvrettes | 2 4 6 ||Cravats | 18 30 " ||D'Oyleys | 8 10 12 ||Dress Trimmimgs | 22 30 " ||Edgings | 14 30 " ||Handkerchiefs | 30 36 40 ||Insertions, coarse | 6 8 12 || " fine | 24 30 " ||----------------------------------|-------------------| Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank. Point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards. Plain linen twelve yards in each hank. * * * * * GUIPURE D'ART. INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART. * * * * * Ancient Guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with gold, silver, or silk thread, and the word Guipure derives its name from thesilk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that name. Inprocess of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a cottonmaterial replaced it. Guipure lace was called _intelle à cartisane_ inEngland in the sixteenth century. Various modern laces are calledGuipure, but the word is misapplied, since Guipure lace is that kindonly where one thread is twisted round another thread or anothersubstance, as in the ancient Guipure d'Art. In every design where lace can be introduced, Guipure d'Art will befound useful. It looks particularly well when mounted upon quilted silkor satin. The squares, when worked finely, look well as toilet-cushions, or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable couvrettes, and ascovers for eider-down silk quilts are very elegant. Guipure squaresshould be connected by guipure lace, crochet, or tatting, or they may beedged with narrow guipure lace and joined at the corners only whenplaced over coloured silk or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushionappears in alternate squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche ofribbon and fall of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting. Not one of the least important attractions of Guipure d'Art is the speedwith which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh patterns aredesigned by skilful workers. GUIPURE D'ART is an imitation of the celebrated ancient Guipure Lace, and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a square networkof linen thread, Mecklenburg thread of various sizes being used for thispurpose. The needles employed are blunt, and have large eyes, to admitthe linen thread. Materials required: One frame of wire covered with silk ribbon; onesquare of Mecklenburg thread net (_fillet_), either coarse or fine;Mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of various sizes. The netted foundation, or "_fillet_, " upon which this elegant work isembroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and at much less costthan when bought ready made. The square is worked by netting with coarse No. 2 or fine No. 10 threadover a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in rowsbackwards and forwards. Begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1 at the endof every row till you have one more stitch than is required for thenumber of holes. Thus, if a square of 26 holes is required, continue toincrease up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1 at the end of every row till2 stitches only remain. The last 2 stitches are knotted together withoutforming a fresh stitch. The completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the lacingcotton through the double edge formed by the increased and decreasedstitches. If the four corners of the netting are tied at each corner ofthe frame before beginning the lacing, that operation is greatlyfacilitated. The netting should be laced as tightly as possible, itbeing far easier to darn on than when loose. [Illustration: 503. --Frame for Guipure d'Art. ] Ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should practise eachof the stitches until they attain perfect regularity and quickness intheir execution. Two or three hours devoted to this in the firstinstance will not be time wasted, as the most elaborate pattern will beworked with ease as soon as the stitches are mastered. The Mecklenburg thread of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. , of Derby, willbe found a better colour than any other, as it closely resembles theshade of the ancient guipure lace. It is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run asfollow; No. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; No. 2 being the coarsest, andNo. 20 the finest. The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT, POINTDE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE BRUXELLES, andWHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with finer cotton than thefoundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No. 6. It consists of asuccession of small loops, as will be seen clearly in the illustration. The learner should begin from the mark * No. 503, and working a row ofloops the length required, turn the frame and work loops on the oppositehalf of each square intersecting the first worked loops in the centre ofeach intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words. * * * * * [Illustration: 504. --Point d'Esprit. ] POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over eachthread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used in guipured'art. Care should be taken to keep the same number of stitches in eachsquare, both along and across; the number of threads shown inillustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6 and even 8 are used in many nettedfoundations in fine patterns. [Illustration: 505. --Point de Toile. ] * * * * * POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as seen byillustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of working. The frameis turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken across the squares, andincrease in length at the top of the square. [Illustration: 506. --Point de Feston. ] * * * * * POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3 threadsover 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over and under, andthe needle used to arrange the last stitch while passing through to formthe next. This stitch is very easily acquired. It is always worked withcoarser thread than the foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed fora coarse groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars, figures, &c. [Illustration: 507--Point de Reprise. ] [Illustration: 508. --Leaf. ] * * * * * POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of loosebutton-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns and forfilling up squares. It also forms "leaves, " when the number of stitchesis decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a point. Nos. 509and 510 clearly show this stitch. [Illustration: 509. --Point de Bruxelles. ] [Illustration: 510. --Point de Bruxelles. ] * * * * * WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four threads aretaken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is twisted inbringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by passing thethread under and over the netting and the crossing threads. It isfastened off on the back of the several wheels. [Illustration: 511. --Wheel (commenced). ] [Illustration: 512. --Wheel. ] Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same manner, withthe addition of point d'esprit loops, through which, and under and overthe cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread are passed. [Illustration: 513. --Square Wheel. ] [Illustration: 514. --Wheel larger than its real size. ] * * * * * STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519, and 520. No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a singlesquare hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or rosette. No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles, alternately round a centre simply crossed by point d'esprit threads. [Illustration: 516. --Star. ] No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the placemarked _a_; twist the linen thread 3 times round the nearest thread, draw it on to the knot _b_; repeat this 3 times, following the order ofthe letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can beseen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; forthe wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern indarning stitch (point de reprise). [Illustration: 517. --Star. ] [Illustration: 518. --Star. ] No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linenthread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 One part of thestraight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, andlastly, the other part of the straight cross. [Illustration: 519. --Detail of Star. ] [Illustration: 520. --Star. ] In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds ofstitches. (See illustration 520). OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stemsof the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or twocoarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and forms the triangles inthe centre of the middle squares. * * * * * [Illustration: 521. --Insertion in Guipure d'Art. ] 521. --_Insertion in Guipure d'Art. _ Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10; needle No. 7. For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one cornerwith 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches, alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at theend of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasingnet 2 stitches in the same hole. When the strip is sufficiently long, complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing atthe beginning. As the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration, it will be very easy to work from it. It is worked in point de festonand star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. The insertion isfinished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches. * * * * * 522. --_Lace Border in Guipure D'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10. This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edgingfor toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well fortrimming couvrettes, &c. , in No. 2 thread. The netting is nine holeswide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, theedge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside thescallops. [Illustration: 522. --Lace Border in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 523. --_Square for D'Oyley_ Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread Nos. 8and 10; needle No. 6. [Illustration: 523. --Pattern of Square for D'Oyley. ] This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, orpincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactlylike the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown infull size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, andpoint de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in onehole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three timesacross the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is workedin overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre isworked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of thenetting. * * * * * [Illustration: 524. --Corner Border in Guipure d'Art. ] 524 _and_ 525. --_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 2 forcouvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings. These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes;the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch, point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-holestitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked. [Illustration: 525. --Corner Border in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 526. --_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art. _ Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 8. This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzaglines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point detoile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by thezigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needsdescription, the only part requiring care being the squares of point defeston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawnrather tightly so as to form a good square. [Illustration: 526. --Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 527. --_Small Square_. Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern. [Illustration: 527. --Small Square. ] Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of eachsquare, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. Itis embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. Theouter edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares areworked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth. The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on thepincushion or any article they are intended to ornament. * * * * * 528. --_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or16 for very fine work. This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds oflingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use tobe made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitchand point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges areworked round with button-hole stitches. [Illustration: 528. --Insertion in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 529. --_Rosette in Guipure d'Art. _ [Illustration: 529. --Rosette in Guipure d'Art. ] Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 6. This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A largerwheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast. * * * * * 530. --_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needleNo. 7. [Illustration: 530. --Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art. ] This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipured'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border inlinen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars areworked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at thepoints of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (seeNo. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, onequarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-workedstars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branchedcentre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle. * * * * * 531 _and_ 532. --_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's linen thread No. 2 for thenetting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8. [Illustration: 531. --Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art. ] No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in pointd'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round ofsmall wheels or rosettes. For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first squarestitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots, so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of thecross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist thecotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square isreached, and begin another wheel. [Illustration: 532. --Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art. ] The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; thepattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing alittle from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustrationclearly shows the difference. No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star(see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; thesquare stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups oflong loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point detoile, worked one way only, complete this square. * * * * * 533 _to_ 536. --_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16, according to the size of the work. These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares, or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit. [Illustration: 533. --Pattern in Guipure d'Art. ] No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half filleach square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with greatregularity. [Illustration: 534. --Pattern in Guipure d'Art. ] No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit. No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, andresembles lace stitches. [Illustration: 535. --Pattern in Guipure d'Art. ] No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with pointd'esprit. This grounding is very effective. [Illustration: 536. --Pattern in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 537. --_Lace Border for Veils, &c_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 16;strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame. This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast, the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, andthe pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut awayfrom the overcast edge. [Illustration: 537. --Lace Border for Veils, &c. ] * * * * * 538 _and_ 538_a_. --_Squares in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans andCo. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the finenessrequired. [Illustration: 538. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs. They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner, beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of theguipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point defeston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538, and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_. [Illustration: 538_a_. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 539. --Guipure d'Art Insertion. ] 539. --_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to16; strip of netting length, required. This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in pointde feston. The ground in point d'esprit. * * * * * 540 _and_ 541. --_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_ Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12. [Illustration: 540. --Square in Point de Venise. ] [Illustration: 541. --Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged). ] This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together withother squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It isworked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to makeof it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and crossthreads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which isworked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long andcross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threadshave been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form theframework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work closebutton-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitchover the long and cross threads of the ground. From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times largerthan full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When thelatter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares inbutton-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettesand half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each rowthe thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can beseen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in thelast button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch whencompleted, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through thefirst completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns fromNo. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction ofthe patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round withan open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541. * * * * * 542 _and_ 543. --_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 14. These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. Thenetted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, andwork in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end ofevery row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darningstitch, as can be seen in illustration. [Illustration: 542 and 543--Corner Borders. ] * * * * * 544. --_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 10. [Illustration: 544. --Flower in Guipure d'Art. ] This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk inguipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with whitethread or black silk in point de reprise. * * * * * 545. --_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_. Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16. [Illustration: 545. --Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art. ] This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened oncardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboois twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a halfinches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sideswith blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitchesused are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit. * * * * * 546 _and_ 547. --_Squares in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required. [Illustration: 546. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie, cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre, they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c. ;they are worked in darning and linen stitch. [Illustration: 547. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 548. --_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length;Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12. This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at eachside of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches beingworked between the rows. [Illustration: 549. --Guipure d'Art Insertion. ] * * * * * 550 _and_ 551. --_Squares for Antimacassar_. Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co'sMecklenburg thread No. 8. [Illustration: 550. --Square for Antimacassar. ] No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in pointd'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point detoile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares. No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point defeston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of starpattern No. 518. [Illustration: 551. --Square for Antimacassar. ] * * * * * 552 _and_ 553. --_Borders in Guipure d'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16. These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked withfine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the bordersis to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch andpoint d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are tobe worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut awayalong the outside. [Illustration: 552. --Border in Guipure d'Art. ] [Illustration: 553. --Border in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 554 _and_ 555. --_Squares in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 20;netted squares of 7 and 8 holes. [Illustration: 554. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappetsfor caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. Thecentre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raisedstitches. [Illustration: 555. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 556. --_Square in Guipure d'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 12. The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as theborder; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in thecentre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked. [Illustration: 556. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 557. --_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evansand Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 12. The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, squarewheels are worked in the centre of the strip. [Illustration: 557. --Insertion in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 558 _to_ 563. --_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, inGuipure d'Art_. Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburgthread Nos. 16 and 20. These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable forornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steelknitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in themanner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 roundswide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darnedpatterns can be worked from illustration. [Illustration: 558. --Insertion in Guipure d'Art. ] [Illustration: 559. --Insertion in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 560. --Rosette in Guipure d'Art. ] For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fineknitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st roundwork 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitchesin every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every otherstitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle doublethe size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of thepreceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle asfollows:-- [Illustration: 561. --Border in Guipure d'Art. ] Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in allthe other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, withfine glazed cotton. For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1stround 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitchesin every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last(10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, fromillustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and pointd'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-holestitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These tworosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes. [Illustration: 562. --Rosette in Guipure d'Art. ] [Illustration: 563. --Rosette in Guipure d'Art. ] The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straightnetting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and workedround in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground isdarned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration). * * * * * [Illustration: 564. --Corner Border in Guipure d'Art. ] 564 _and_ 565. --_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 20 forhandkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes. These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c. , oras strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked withmore or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for. They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, andfinished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in everybutton-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on theneedle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave theloop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it offwith the next double stitch. [Illustration: 565. --Corner Border in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * 566. --_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_. Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silkcord; guipure netting. This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin, and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, andornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box isstuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipured'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the cornerswith bows of satin ribbon. [Illustration: 566. --Jewel Case, with Pincushion. ] * * * * * 567. --_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_. Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 14. This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, pointde reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally. [Illustration: 567. --Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566). ] * * * * * 568. --_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580. )_ Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 20, andcotton No. 80. For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustrationtwo-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting forthe foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are requiredfor the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the sizeof the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked withcotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths ofan inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, andwork in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end ofevery row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holesin width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same numberof stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitcheslong. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom byworking a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remainsuntouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever themesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that thecotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No. 568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of theparasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next toeach other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie nextto the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the patternseen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-holestitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch. * * * * * [Illustration: 569. --Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art. ] 569. --_Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 18;green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord. The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting mustbe fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers areworked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushionis made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the nettinghas been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner. * * * * * [Illustration: 570. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] 570. --_Square in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 'sMecklenburg thread No. 12. This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline ofpoint de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-holestitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point dereprise is worked. * * * * * 571 _and_ 572. --_Work Case in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg threadNo. 16; blue silk cord. [Illustration: 571. --Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Back). ] This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inchesand four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop andbutton. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece. The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring atleast two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must beslanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or bycutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linenstitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which showsthe front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. Thenetting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sideswith button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged withbutton-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop tocorrespond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord. [Illustration: 572. --Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Front). ] * * * * * 573. --_Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg threadNo. 12; carved oak stand; glacé silk; cords; tassels. Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from themantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glacé silk, andedged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner isgiven in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger orsmaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern isworked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with agathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords andtassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch, instead of adding the lace border. [Illustration: 573. --Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 575. --Border in Guipure d'Art. ] 575. --_Border in Guipure d'Art_. Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 8. This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row ofbutton-hole, and finished with a crochet edging. * * * * * [Illustration: 576. --Square in Guipure d'Art. ] 576. --_Square in Guipure d'Art_. Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. 's Mecklenburg thread No. 12;netted square of 20 holes. This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as thatshown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of pointd'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars. Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:-- |----------------------------------|--------------|| | No. ||----------------------------------|--------------|| Antimacassars | 2 || Borders | 4 || Handkerchiefs | 20 || Insertions | 8 || Lace edgings and insertions | 16 || Lamp shades | 16 || Parasol covers | 18 || Sachets | 12 || Sofa cushions | 8 || Toilet cushions | 10 || Toilet mats | 10 ||----------------------------------|--------------| * * * * * FRAMES May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares. Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings. * * * * * BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS. Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas withwool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common crossstitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tentstitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefullychosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raisedstitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such asslippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for largerones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is muchmore expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas(not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; itis more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generallyused for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvasbetter than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Beforebeginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed orsewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas inthe course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon around piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table witha lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in aframe. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work thestitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is veryessential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern. Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those coloursthat lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern isfinished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarsefor the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as faras the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way. The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch;illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same. We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writingand by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used inBerlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor toosimple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to becomeBerlin workers. * * * * * [Illustration: 577. --Common Cross Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 577. --The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwardsand forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of thecanvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working. * * * * * [Illustration: 578. --Long Cross Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like thepreceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. * * * * * [Illustration: 579. --Long Cross Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like thepreceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, andin the next row the stitches are worked between those in the precedingrow. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; eachstitch is completed before beginning the next. * * * * * [Illustration: 580. --Slanting Cross Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 580. --The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd isstraight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out aremarked on the illustration with a cross and dot. * * * * * [Illustration: 581. --Damask Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 581. --The damask stitch is worked in single rows from leftto right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of onerow come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown inillustration are where to insert and draw out the needle. * * * * * [Illustration: 582. --Rep Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. Thefirst half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 inwidth, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to leftover the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completedat once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the firsthalf of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must beinserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placedon illustration. * * * * * [Illustration: 583. --Leviathan Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 583. --The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Eachstitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitchcompleted and the wool as it must be placed for working the first halfof the straight cross stitch. * * * * * [Illustration: 584. --Leviathan Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 584. --The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like thepreceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in thedifferent rows, as may be seen from illustration. * * * * * [Illustration: 585. --Double Leviathan Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 585. --The double leviathan stitch is a variety of thepreceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long crossstitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked. * * * * * [Illustration: 586. --Tent Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 586. --Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch inheight and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right. * * * * * [Illustration: 587. --Slanting Gobelin Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 587. --The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undividedcanvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread. * * * * * [Illustration: 588. --Straight Gobelin Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 588. --The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threadsin height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear moreraised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool. * * * * * ILLUSTRATION 589. --The raised or velvet stitch is worked over smallround wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshesand as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; makefirst a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common crossstitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the placewhere it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as toform a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin towork over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in aslanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regularcross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitchcompleted and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on themesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the woolupon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are workedupwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must notbe drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut openif preferred. [Illustration: 589. --Raised or Velvet Stitch. ] * * * * * [Illustration: 590. --Plaited Stitch. ] ILLUSTRATION 590. --The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bonestitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and theplace where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is markedby a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threadsbelow the stitches of the preceding row. * * * * * ILLUSTRATION 591. --The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin towork a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvasover 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slantingdirection. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging downabout four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitchto fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work iscompleted the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen fromillustration. [Illustration: 591. --Plush Stitch. ] * * * * * ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594. --Three Berlin wool work borders for trimmingbaskets, &c. No. 592. --The 2 outer rows which edge the border are workedin long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre witha back stitch. [Illustration: 592. --Berlin Work Border. ] The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. Thesquares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed inthe middle with a knot. No. 593. --The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern thereis a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594. --Thepetals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, and consisting of 4 slanting stitches. [Illustration: 593--Berlin Work Border. ] [Illustration: 594. --Berlin Work Border. ] In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in crossstitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice ofcolours depends upon what use the border is intended for and uponpersonal taste. * * * * * PLATES [Illustration: TATTED ANTIMACASSAR (see page 80). ] [Illustration: 214--COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUÉ] [Illustration: 334--KNITTED TABLE COVER (_see page_ 347). ] [Illustration: 337--KNITTED D'OYLEY (_see page_ 352). ] [Illustration: 568. --PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART (_see page 549_). ] INDEX. ACACIA SPRAY in embroidery, 162. Antimacassar, crochet, 276. Antimacassar in tatting, 65. Antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320. Appliqué, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215. Arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254. Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255, 256. BABY'S BOOT, knitted, 326. Bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245. Banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574. BARS, POINT LACE. D'Alençon, 463. Point d'Angleterre, 467. Point de Venise, edged, 468. Point de Venise, dotted, 469. Raleigh, 471, 472. Sorrento, 461, 462. Sorrento, dotted, 469. Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466. Basket, small, crochet, 239. Basket, crochet, 272. Basket, crochet, 273. Basket, embroidered in chenille, 134. Bedford plaited lace (1851), 423. Bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327. BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559. Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594. BERLIN STITCHES. Common cross stitch, 577. Damask stitch, 581. Leviathan stitch, 583, 584. Leviathan double stitch, 585. Long cross stitch, 578, 579. Plaited stitch, 590. Plush stitch, 591. Raised or velvet stitch, 589. Rep stitch, 582. Slanting cross stitch, 580. Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587. Straight Gobelin stitch, 588. Tent stitch, 586. (Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851), 422. Bodice, knitted, 324, 325. Boot, baby's, knitted, 326 Borders, crochet, 252, 253 Border, embroidered, 150. Border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204. Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561. Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565. Borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557. Border, guipure d'art, 575. Border in crochet and tatting, 52. Border in Oriental embroidery, 179. Border in tatting and crochet, 6. Border in tatting and crochet, 15. Border in tatting and crochet, 22. Border in tatting and lace stitch, 44. Border in tatting, with beads, 13. Border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5. Border, knitted, 321. Border, tatting, 47. Borders, two crochet, 274, 275. Border, with beads, tatted, 13. Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169. Braces, embroidered, 202. Braces, knitted, 338. Brioche cushion in crochet, 249. Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212. CAP, border for, in tatting, 38. Cap crown in tatting, 37. Cap in tatting, 38, 39. Chenille, basket embroidered in, 134. Cigar-case, embroidered, 190. Circle for collars, cuffs, &c. , in tatting, 21. Circle in tatting, 12. Circle in tatting, 21. Circle in tatting, 57. Collar in tatting, 56. Collar in tatting and darned netting, 28. Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49. Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54. Collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1. Collar, tatted, 55. Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49. Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54. Comforters, &c. , knitting stitch for, 336. Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141. Corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525. Corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543. Corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565. Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery, 149. Corner in embroidery, 151. Corner in embroidery, 152. Cotton, tatting, page 82. Couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25. Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250. Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257. Couvrette in appliqué, embroidery, 147. Couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243. Couvrette in tatting, 25. Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138. Cravats, &c. , in embroidery, patterns for, 184. Cravats, &c. , in embroidery, patterns for, 185. Cravat in tatting, 50. Cravat end in embroidery, 136. Cravat end in embroidery, 153. Cravat end in raised embroidery, 156. Cravat end in tatting, 60. Cravat end in tatting, 62. Cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64. Cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51. Cravat in muslin and tatting, 50. Cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153. Crochet, antimacassar in, 276. Crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254. Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256. Crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245. Crochet basket, small, 239. Crochet basket, 272. Crochet basket, 273. Crochet borders, 252, 253. Crochet borders, two, 274, 275. Crochet, brioche cushion, 249. Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257. Crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243. Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250. Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace. No. 1, 262. No. 2, 263. No. 3, 264. No. 4, 265. No. 5, 266. No. 6, 267. No. 7, 268. No. 8, 269. No. 9, 270. No. 10, 271. Crochet garter, 285. Crochet, insertion, 258. Crochet, insertion, 259. Crochet, insertion, 260. Crochet, insertion, 277. Crochet, insertion, 283. Crochet, insertion, 284. CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS. Crochet hook, page 185. Foundation chain, double, 217. Foundation chain, plain, 216. Foundation chain, purl, 218. Spots, raised, 232. Spots, hollow, 233. Spots, open work, 234. Crochet, lace, 251. Crochet, lace, 261. Crochet, purse in, over rings, 248. Crochet rosettes, 280, 281. Crochet sovereign purse, 246. Crochet, star in, 244. Crochet, stars in, 247. CROCHET STITCHES. Cross stitch, 224. Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231. Double long treble stitch, 228. Double stitch, 220, 221. Long double stitch, 225. Long treble stitch, 227. Purl stitch, 236. Purl stitch, 237. Purl stitch, 238. Raised treble stitch, 235. Raised ribbed stitch, 222. Raised slanting stitch, 223. Slip stitch, 219. Treble stitch, 226. Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286. Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282. Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279. Crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273. Curtains, knitted pattern for, 339. Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250. Dalecarlian lace, 419. Diamond in tatting, 20. Diamond in tatting, 36. Diamond in tatting, 53. Diamond in tatting, 59. Diamond netting, 306. Diamond tatting for collars, &c. , 20. D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace. No. 1, 262. No. 2, 263. No. 3, 264. No. 4, 265. No. 5, 266. No. 6, 267. No. 7, 268. No. 8, 269. No. 9, 270. No. 10, 271. D'Oyley, knitted, 337. EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE. Antwerp, 479. Point d'Angleterre, 477. Point de Bruxelles, 474, Point d'Espagne, 478. Point de Venise, 476. Sorrento, 475. Edging, embroidered, 178. Embroidered border, 204. Embroidered border, 150. Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169. Embroidered braces, 202. Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201. Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203. Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212. Embroidered cigar-case, 190. Embroidered edging, 178. Embroidered handkerchief, 197. Embroidered hanging letter-case, 176. Embroidered in chenille, basket, 134. Embroidered key-bag, 182. Embroidered key-bag, 183. Embroidered knife-basket, 159. Embroidered knife-basket, 160. Embroidered lace insertion, 207. Embroidered lady's purse, 157. Embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177. Embroidered linen collar, 193. Embroidered linen collar, 194. Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166. Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167. Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187. Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas, 208. Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209. Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196. Embroidery, acacia spray in, 162. Embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132. Embroidery, appliqué, couvrette in, 147. Embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204. Embroidery, border in Oriental, 179. Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141. Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe, 149. Embroidery, corner in, 151. Embroidery, corner in, 152. Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138. Embroidery, cravat end in, 136. Embroidery, cravat end in, 153. Embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156. Embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161. Embroidery, glove-box in, 174. Embroidery, glove-box in, 175. Embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197. Embroidery, handkerchief in, 140. Embroidery, insertion in, 131. Embroidery, insertion in, 142. Embroidery, insertion in, 145. Embroidery, insertion in, 146. Embroidery, insertion in, 155. Embroidery, insertion in, 165. Embroidery, insertion in, 188. Embroidery, insertion in, 189. Embroidery, insertion in, 192. EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83. Bead partly covered, 103. Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102. Bluebell, 113. Bluebell, inner part, 114. Bluebell, part of, 116. Borders, 118, 119. Ear of corn, 112. Flower, 115. Flower in satin stitch, 107. Flower appliquéd on net, 117, Heartsease, 110. Initials, 123 to 130. Insertions, 120 to 122. Leaf, 94. Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91. Leaf, raised, 92, 93. Leaf, raised, 95. Leaf, half of, 99. Leaf, centre of, 100. Raised embroidered leaf, 98. Raised flower, 111. Raised leaf, 96. Raised leaf, 97. Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91. Rose in satin stitch, 108. Rose, petal for, 109. Star, 106. Star in point de reprise, 105. Star in satin stitch, 104. STITCH, EMBROIDERY. Stitch, back, 70. Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87. Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85. Stitch, double overcast, 67. Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75. Stitch, ladder, 80, 81. Stitch, overcast, 68. Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72. Stitch, point de minute, 79. Stitch, point de plume, 78. STITCH, EMBROIDERY--_continued_. Stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77. Stitch, scallop, 66. Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89. Stitch, slanting overcast, 89. Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 198. Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 199. Embroidery, medallion in point Russe, 210. Embroidery, medallion in point Russc, 211. EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN. Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch, 353. Embroidery, alphabet in floral, 361. Embroidery, alphabet in florid style, 356. Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots, 352. Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or, 357. Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch, 359. Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch, 351. Embroidery, alphabet scalloped, 355. Embroidery, alphabet, small, 354. Embroidery, initials in, 366 to 417. Embroidery, monograms in, 366 to 417. Embroidery, names in, 362 to 418. Embroidery, sampler in, 360. Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals, 349. Embroidery, star alphabet, small, 350. Embroidery, white, alphabet in, 358. Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c. , in, 135. Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c. , in, 137. Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c. , in, 184. Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c. , in, 185. Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c. , in, 133. Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c. , in, 139. Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in, 143, 144. Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size), 196. Embroidery, penwiper in, 186, 187. Embroidery, rose-leaf in, 173. Embroidery, sandwich-case in, 154. Embroidery stars, 137, 143, 144. Embroidery stars, 180, 181. Embroidery, table-napkin ring in, 158. Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 163. Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 164. Embroidery, travelling-bag in, 168. Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices, 170. Embroidery, Venetian border in, 206. Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in, 205. Embroidery, waste-paper basket in, 191. Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in, 171, 172, 173. Embroidery, wing of bird, 172. Embroidery, work-bag in, 200. Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat, 148. English netting, 308 Fichu, netted, 315, 316. Flower in guipure d'art, 544. Frame for guipure d'art 503. Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper, 187. Fuchsia spray in embroidery, 161. Garter, crochet, 285. Glove-box in embroidery, 174. Glove-box in embroidery, 175. Gauge, knitting, 287. Guipure d'art. Guipure d'art, banner-screen in, 573, 574. Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in, 561. Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner, 564, 565. Guipure d'art, borders in, 552, 553, 557. Guipure d'art, border in, 575. Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 524, 525. Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 542, 543. Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 564, 565. Guipure d'art, flower in, 544. Guipure d'art, frame for, 503. Guipure d'art, insertion in, 521. Guipure d'art, insertion in, 526. Guipure d'art, insertion in, 528. Guipure d'art, insertion in, 539. Guipure d'art, insertion in, 548. Guipure d'art, insertion in, 558. Gaipure d'art, insertion in, 559. Guipure d'art, insertions, &c. , in, 558 to 563. Guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503. Guipure d'art jewel-case cover, 567. Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in, 566. Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in, 537. Guipure d'art, lace border in, 522. Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in, 568. Guipure d'art, quarter square in, 530. Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 529. Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 562, 563. Guipure d'art stitches. Grounding, 533 to 536. Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510. Point d'esprit, 504. Point de feston, 506. Point de reprise, 507, 508. Point de toile, 505. Stars, 516 to 520. Wheels, 511 to 515. Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in, 569. Guipure d'art, small squares, 527. Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar, 550, 551. Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in, 523. Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses, 546, 547. Guipure d'art, square in, 531. Guipure d'art, square in, 532. Guipure d'art, square in, 556. Guipure d'art, squares in, 570, 576. Guipure d'art, squares in, 533 to 536. Guipure d'art, squares in, 538, 538a. Guipure d'art, squares in, 554, 555. (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, 540. (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged, 541. Guipure d'art, work-basket covered with, 545. Guipure d'art, work-case in, 571, 572. Handkerchief border in embroidery, 197. Handkerchief in embroidery, 140. Hanging letter-case embroidered, 176. Honiton guipure lace, 424. Insertion, crochet, 258. Insertion, crochet, 259. Insertion, crochet, 260. Insertion, crochet, 277. Insertion, crochet, 283. Insertion, crochet, 284. Insertion in embroidery, 131. Insertion in embroidery, 142. Insertion in embroidery, 145. Insertion in embroidery, 146. Insertion in embroidery, 155. Insertion in embroidery, 165. Insertion in embroidery, 188. Insertion in embroidery, 189. Insertion in embroidery, 192. Insertion in embroidery and stitching, 132. Insertion in guipure d art, 521. Insertion in guipure d'art, 526. Insertion in guipure d'art, 528. Insertion in guipure d'art, 539. Insertion in guipure d'art, 548. Insertion in guipure d'art, 558. Insertion in guipure d'art, 559. Insertions in guipure d'art, 558 to 563. Insertions in tatting, 2. Insertion in tatting, 7. Insertion in tatting, 11. Insertion in tatting, 14. Insertion in tatting, 24. Insertion in tatting, 31. Insertion in tatting, 32. Insertion in tatting and crochet, 41. Insertion in tatting and crochet, 43. Insertion in tatting and lace stitch, 23. Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries, 11. Insertion, knitted, 340. Insertion, wide, tatting, 10. Insertion, wide, tatting, 14. Insertion, wide, tatting, 43. Insertion, worked in tatting, 10. INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, p. 559. Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594. Berlin stitches. Common cross stitch, 577. Damask stitch, 581. Leviathan stitch, 583, 584. Leviathan double stitch, 585. Long cross stitch, 578, 579. Plaited stitch, 590. Plush stitch, 591. Raised or velvet stitch, 589. Rep stitch, 582. Slanting cross stitch, 580. Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587. Straight Gobelin stitch, 588. Tent stitch, 586. INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET. Crochet hook, p. 185. Foundation chain, double, 217. Foundation chain, plain, 216. Foundation chain, purl, 218. Spots, raised, 232. Spots, hollow, 233. Spots, open work, 234. INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY. Bead partly covered, 103. Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102. Bluebell, 113. Bluebell, inner part, 114. Bluebell, part of, 116. Borders, 118, 119. Ear of corn, 112. Flower, 115. Flower in satin stitch, 107. Flower appliquéd on net, 117. Heartsease, 110. Initials, 123 to 130. Insertions, 120 to 122. Leaf, 94. Leaf, half of, 99. Leaf, centre of, 100. Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91. Leaf, raised, 92, 93. Leaf, raised, 95. Raised embroidered leaf, 98. Raised flower, 111. Raised leaf, 96. Raised leaf, 97. Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91. Rose in satin stitch, 108. Rose, petal for, 109. Star, 106. Star in point de reprise, 105. Star in satin stitch, 104. STITCH, EMBROIDERY. Stitch, back, 70. Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 85, 87. Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85. Stitch, double overcast, 67. Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75. Stitch, ladder, 80, 81. Stitch, overcast, 68. Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72. Stitch, point de minute, 79. Stitch, point de plume, 78. Stitch, satin raised, 76, 77. Stitch, scallop, 66. Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89. Stitch, slanting overcast, 69. INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, p. 503. INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING. Joining the work, p. V. Pin, tatting, p. Ii. Shuttles, tatting, pp. I, iii. The way to hold the hands, p. Iii. The way to make a loop in tatting, p. Iv. The way to make a purl, p. V. The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. Iv. JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, 567. Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, 566. KEY-BAG, embroidered, 182. Key-bag, embroidered, 183. Knee-cap, knitted, 322. Knife-basket, embroidered, 159. Knife-basket, embroidered, 160. Knitted antimacassar, 318 to 320. Knitted baby's boot, 326. Knitted bodice, 324, 325. Knitted border, 321. Knitted border for bed-quilt, 327. Knitted braces, 338. Knitted comforters, pattern for, 336. Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, 313. Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, 341, 342. Knitted curtains, patterns for, 339. Knitted d'oyley, 337. Knitted insertion, 340. Knitted knee-cap, 322. Knitted neckerchief, 323. Knitted pattern, 345. Knitted pattern, with embroidery, 332. Knitted purse, lady's, 317. Knitted quilt, 328. Knitted shawl, 346 to 348. Knitted sleeping sock, 314. Knitted sock for a child, 312. Knitted table-cover, 333, 334. Knitted veil, 330, 331. Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, p. 368. Knitting gauge, 287. Knitting, looped, 335. Knitting, materials required for, 287. Knitting needles, 287. KNITTING ON, 287. Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, 319. KNITTING STITCHES. Brioche stitch, 301. Casting off, 295. Casting on, 288. Decreasing, 293. Increasing, 292. Knitting on, 289. Knotted stitch, 299. Looped knitting, 335. Moss borders, 300. Peacock's tail pattern, 297. Picking up stitches, 296. Plain knitting, 290. Purling, 291. Round knitting, 294. Spiral stitch, 298. Knitting stitch for comforters, &c. , 32. LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), 423. (Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), 422. Lace border for veils in guipure d'art 537. Lace border in guipure d'art, 522. Lace, crochet, 251. Lace, crochet, 261. Lace, Dalecarlian, 419. Lace, deep, in tatting, 27. Lace edging in tatting, 3. Lace edging in tatting, 4. Lace, Honiton guipure, 424. Lace insertion, embroidered, 207. Lace in tatting and crochet, 40. Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), 4 Lace, netted, 309. Lace, netted, open, 310. Lace, old Mechlin, 420. LACE POINT. Braid, placing the, 442. Braids, 426 to 431. Cords, p. 453. Edgings, 474 to 479. General directions for working, pp. 453, 454. Materials required, p. 451. Modes of working dots and picots, 470, 473. Scissors for, 425. Threads, sizes of, p. 500. Lace, tatted, 26. Lace, tatted, 27. Lady's embroidered purse, 157. Lady's veil in net and tatting, 16, 17. Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, 205. Linen collar embroidered, 193. Linen collar embroidered, 194. Linen tatting-bag, 46. Linen bag for tatting cotton, 30. Looped knitting, 335. MATERIALS required fur knitting, 287. Materials required for netting. 302. Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), 421. Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 198. Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 199. Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, 58. Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 210. Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 211. Medallion, tatting, 58. Mignardise and tatting, 29. MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY. Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, 353. Alphabet, floral embroidery, 361. Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, 356. Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), 352. Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), 357. Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, 359. Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), 351. Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, 355. Alphabet, small, in embroidery, 354. Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, 349. Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, 350. Alphabet, white, embroidery, 358. Initials in embroidery, 366 to 417. Monograms in embroidery, 366 to 417. Names in embroidery, 362 to 418. Sampler in embroidery, 360. Muslin cravat, embroidered, 153. Neckerchief, knitted, 323. Needle and mesh for netting, 302. Needles, knitting, 287. Netted fichu, 315, 316. Netted lace, 309. Netted nightcaps, 343, 344. Netted open lace, 310. Netted shell border, 311. Netting, 302. Netting, 303. NETTING STITCHES. Diamond, 306. English, 308. Bound, 305, 307. Square, 304. Netting, materials required for, 302. Netting needle and mesh, 302. Nightcaps, netted, 343, 344. Old Mechlin lace, 420. ON KNITTING, 287. Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, 568. Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, 255, 256. Pattern for a couvrette in appliqué, 213 to 215. Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c. , in embroidery, 135. Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c. , in embroidery, 137. Pattern for cravats, &c. , in embroidery, 184. Pattern for cravats, &c. , in embroidery, 185. Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), 196. Pattern for cravat ends, &c. , in embroidery, 133. Pattern for cravat ends, &c. , in embroidery, 139. Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 201. Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 203. Pattern for embroidered letter-case, 177. Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 166. Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 167. Pattern for knitted comforters, 336. Pattern for knitted counterpanes, 313. Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, 143, 144. Patterns for veil in tatting, 18, 19. Pattern, knitted, 345. PATTERNS, POINT LACE. Alphabet, 502. Alphabet, description of, 500 to 502. Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494. Borders, 482, 483. Collars, 493, 496. Cravat end, 487. Design for point lace collar, lappets, &c. , 490. Dress trimming, 492. Edgings, 488, 489. Handkerchief border, 485. Insertion (Limoges), 484. Lappet, 490. Lappet, 497. Letter __A in point lace, 500, 501. Medallion, 481. Oval for cravats, 491. Star, 480. Toilet cushion centre, 486. Wheels, close English, 495. Penwiper in embroidery, 186, 187. Point Lace. Braid, placing the, 442. Braids, 426 to 431. Cords, p. 453. Edgings, 474 to 479. General directions for working, 453, 454. Materials required, p. 451. Modes of working dots or picots, 470, 473. Scissors for, 425. Threads, sizes of, p. 500. Point Lace Bars. D'Alençon, 463. Point d'Angleterre, 467. Point de Venise, edged, 468. Point de Venise, dotted, 469. Raleigh, 471, 472. Sorrento, 461, 462. Sorrento, dotted, 469. Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466. Point lace edgings and purled edgings. Antwerp, 479. Point d'Angleterre, 477. Point do Bruxelles, 474. Point d'Espagne, 478. Point de Venise, 476. Sorrento, 475. Point lace patterns. Alphabet, 502. Alphabet, description of, 500, 502. Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494. Borders, 482, 483. Collars, 493, 496. Cravat end, 487. Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &c. , 490. Dress trimming, 492. Edgings, 488, 489. Handkerchief border, 485. Insertion (Limoges), 484. Lappet, 490. Lappet, 497. Letter _A_ in point lace, 500, 501. Medallion, 481. Oval for cravats, 491. Star, 480. Toilet cushion centre, 486. Wheels, close English, 495. Point lace stitches. Brussels lace, 433, 434. Escalier lace, 454. Mechlin lace, 453. Point d'Angleterre, 444. Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, 445. Point d'Anvers, 498. Point d'Alençon, 442. Point d'Alençon, 443. Point Brabançon, 449. Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434. Point de Cordova, 447. Point d'Espagne, 437. Point d'Espagne; close, 438. Point d' Espagne, treble, 439. Point de fillet, 450. Point de fillet and point reprise, 451. Point de Grecque, 440, 499. Point de reprise. 448. Point de tulle, 452. Point Turque, 446. Point de Valenciennes, 441. Point de Venise, 435. Point de Venise, petit, 436. Spanish point, 455. Point lace wheel and rosettes. English, plain, 458. English, raised, 459. Mechlin, 453. Rosette for centres, 460. Sorrento, 456, 457. Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457. Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, 209. Purse, crochet sovereign, 246. Purse in crochet over rings, 248. Parse in tatting and beads, 42. Purse, knitted, 317. Quarter-square in guipure d'art, 530. Quilt, knitted, 328. Rose-leaf in embroidery, 173. Rosettes, crochet, 280, 281. Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, 48, 61, 63. Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, 319. Rosettes in guipure d'art, 529, 562, 563. Rosette in tatting, 8. Rosette in tatting, 34. Rosette in tatting, 35. Rosette in tatting, 45. Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 48. Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 61. Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 63. Round netting, 305, 307. SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, 154. Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, 569. Shawl, knitted, 346 to 348. Shell border, netted, 311. Sleeping sock, knitted, 314. Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, 208. Sock, knitted, for a child, 312. Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, 341, 342. Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, 550, 551. Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, 523. Square, guipure d'art, 531. Square, guipure d'art, 532. Square, guipure d'art, 556. Squares, guipure d'art, 570, 576. Squares in guipure d'art, 533 to 536. Squares in guipure d'art, 538, 538a. Squares in guipure d'art, 554, 555. Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, 546, 547. Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), 540. Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, 541. Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, 33. Square netting, 304. Squares, small, in guipure d'art, 527. Star, crochet, 244. Stars in crochet, 247. Stars in embroidery, 137, 143, 144. Stars in embroidery, 180, 181. Star in tatting, 9. STITCHES, CROCHET. Cross stitch, 224. Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231. Double long treble stitch, 228. Double stitch, 220, 221. Long double stitch, 225. Long treble stitch, 227. Purl stitch, 236. Purl stitch, 237. Purl stitch, 238. Raised treble stitch, 235. Raised ribbed stitch, 222. Raised slanting stitch, 223. Slip stitch, 219. Treble stitch, 226. STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART. Grounding, 533 to 536. Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510. Point d'esprit, 504. Point de feston, 506. Point de reprise, 507, 508. Point de toile, 505. Stars, 516 to 520. Wheels, 511 to 515. STITCHES, KNITTING. Brioche stitch, 301. Casting off, 295. Casting on, 288. Decreasing, 293. Increasing, 292. Knitting on, 289. Knotted stitch, 299. Looped knitting, 335. Moss borders, 300. Peacock-tail pattern, 297. Picking up stitches, 296. Plain, 290. Purling, 291. Round knitting, 294. Spiral stitch, 298. STITCHES, NETTING. Diamond, 306. English, 308. Round, 305, 307. Square, 304. STITCHES, POINT LACE. Brussels lace, 433, 434. Escalier lace, 454. Mechlin lace, 453. Point d'Alençon, 442. Point d'Alençon, 443. Point d'Angleterre, 444. Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, Point d'Anvers, 498. Point Brabançon, 449. Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434. Point de Cordova, 447. Point d'Espagne, 437. Point d'Espagne, close, 438. Point d'Espagne, treble, 439. Point de fillet, 450. Point de fillet and point reprise, 451. Point de Grecque, 440, 499. Point de reprise, 448. Point de tulle, 452. Point Turque, 446. Point de Valenciennes, 441, Point de Venise, 435. Point de Venise, petit, 436. Spanish point, 455. TABLE-COVER, knitted, 333, 334. Table-napkin ring in embroidery, 153. Table of sizes of knitting cotton, p. 363. Tatting and beads, purse in, 42. Tatting and crochet, border in, 22. Tatting and crochet, border in, 52. Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 41. Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 43. Tatting and crochet, lace in, 40. Tatting and darned netting, collar in, 28. Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, 64. Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 48. Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 61. Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 63. Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, 23. Tatting and mignardise, 29. Tatting and muslin, cravat in, 50. Tatting and net, lady's veil in, 16, 17. Tatting, antimacassar in, 65. Tatting-bag, linen, 46. Tatting, border, 47. Tatting, border for cap in. 6. Tatting, border in crochet and, 15. Tatting, border in crochet and, 22. Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, 5, 6. Tatting, border in lace stitch and, 44. Tatting, border, with beads, 13. Tatting, cap-crown in, 37. Tatting, cap in, 38, 39. Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &c. , in, 21. Tatting, circle in, 12. Tatting, circle in, 21. Tatting, circle in, 57. Tatting, collar in, 55. Tatting, collar in, 56. Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, 1. Tatting-cotton, p. 82. Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, 30. Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, 25. Tatting, cravat-end in, 60. Tatting, cravat-end in, 62. Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51. Tatting, cravat in, 50. Tatting, deep border in crochet and, 52. Tatting, deep lace in, 27. Tatting, diamond in, 20. Tatting, diamond in. 36. Tatting, diamond in, 53. Tatting, diamond in, 59. Tatting, diamond, for collars, &c. , 20. Tatting, insertion, 27. Tatting, insertion, 11. Tatting, insertion, 14. Tatting, insertion, 24. Tatting, insertion, 31. Tatting, insertion, 32. Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, 11. Tatting, insertion worked in, 10. TATTING INSTRUCTIONS. Joining the work, p. V. Pin, tatting, p. Ii. Shuttles, tatting, pp. I, iii. The way to hold the hands, p. Iii. The way to make aloop in tatting, p. Iv. The way to make a purl, p. V. The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. Iv. Tatting, lace, 26. Tatting, lace, 27. Tatting, lace edging in, 3. Tatting, lace edging in, 4. Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 49. Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 54. Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, 58. Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51. Tatting, patterns for veils in, 18, 19. Tatting, rosette in, 8. Tatting, rosette in, 34. Tatting, rosette in, 35. Tatting, rosette in, 45. Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, 33. Tatting, star in, 9. Tatting, trimming for collar in, 49. Tatting, trimming for collar in, 54. Tatting, wide insertion in, 10. Tatting, wide insertion in, 14. Tatting, wide insertion in, 43. Tatting, with beads, border in, 13, Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, 278, 279. Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 163. Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 164. Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, 171, 172, 173. Travelling-bag in embroidery, 168. Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282. Tramming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, 286. Trimming in embroidery for bodices, 170. VEIL, knitted, 330, 331. Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, 16, 17. Veils, patterns for, in tatting, 19. Venetian border in embroidery, 206. WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, 191. What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196. WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE. English plain, 458. English raised, 459. Mechlin, 453. Rosette for centres, 460. Sorrento, 456, 457. Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457. Wing of bird in embroidery, 172. Work-bag in embroidery, 200. Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, 545. Work-basket in straw and silk crochet* work, 272, 273. Work-case in guipure d'art, 571, 572. Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat, 148. * * * * *