ASTORIA;

OR, ANECDOTES OF AN ENTERPRISE BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

By Washington Irving

AUTHOR'S INTRODUCTION

IN THE COURSE of occasional visits to Canada many years since, I becameintimately acquainted with some of the principal partners of thegreat Northwest Fur Company, who at that time lived in genial styleat Montreal, and kept almost open house for the stranger. At theirhospitable boards I occasionally met with partners, and clerks, andhardy fur traders from the interior posts; men who had passed yearsremote from civilized society, among distant and savage tribes, andwho had wonders to recount of their wide and wild peregrinations, theirhunting exploits, and their perilous adventures and hair-breadth escapesamong the Indians. I was at an age when imagination lends its coloringto everything, and the stories of these Sinbads of the wilderness madethe life of a trapper and fur trader perfect romance to me. I evenmeditated at one time a visit to the remote posts of the company inthe boats which annually ascended the lakes and rivers, being theretoinvited by one of the partners; and I have ever since regretted that Iwas prevented by circumstances from carrying my intention into effect. From those early impressions, the grand enterprise of the great furcompanies, and the hazardous errantry of their associates in the wildparts of our vast continent, have always been themes of charmedinterest to me; and I have felt anxious to get at the details of theiradventurous expeditions among the savage tribes that peopled the depthsof the wilderness. 

About two years ago, not long after my return from a tour upon theprairies of the far West, I had a conversation with my friend, Mr. John Jacob Astor, relative to that portion of our country, and to theadventurous traders to Santa Fe and the Columbia. This led him to advertto a great enterprise set on foot and conducted by him, between twentyand thirty years since, having for its object to carry the fur tradeacross the Rocky Mountains, and to sweep the shores of the Pacific. 

Finding that I took an interest in the subject, he expressed a regretthat the true nature and extent of his enterprise and its nationalcharacter and importance had never been understood, and a wish that Iwould undertake to give an account of it. The suggestion struck upon thechord of early associations already vibrating in my mind. It occurredto me that a work of this kind might comprise a variety of those curiousdetails, so interesting to me, illustrative of the fur trade; of itsremote and adventurous enterprises, and of the various people, andtribes, and castes, and characters, civilized and savage, affected byits operations. The journals, and letters, also, of the adventurers bysea and land employed by Mr. Astor in his comprehensive project, mightthrow light upon portions of our country quite out of the track ofordinary travel, and as yet but little known. I therefore felt disposedto undertake the task, provided documents of sufficient extent andminuteness could be furnished to me. All the papers relative to theenterprise were accordingly submitted to my inspection. Among them werejournals and letters narrating expeditions by sea, and journeys to andfro across the Rocky Mountains by routes before untravelled, togetherwith documents illustrative of savage and colonial life on the bordersof the Pacific. With such material in hand, I undertook the work. The trouble of rummaging among business papers, and of collecting andcollating facts from amidst tedious and commonplace details, was sparedme by my nephew, Pierre M. Irving, who acted as my pioneer, and to whomI am greatly indebted for smoothing my path and lightening my labors. 

As the journals, on which I chiefly depended, had been kept by men ofbusiness, intent upon the main object of the enterprise, and but littleversed in science, or curious about matters not immediately bearing upontheir interest, and as they were written often in moments of fatigueor hurry, amid the inconveniences of wild encampments, they wereoften meagre in their details, furnishing hints to provoke ratherthan narratives to satisfy inquiry. I have, therefore, availed myselfoccasionally of collateral lights supplied by the published journals ofother travellers who have visited the scenes described: such as Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, Bradbury, Breckenridge, Long, Franchere, and Ross Cox, and make a general acknowledgment of aid received from these quarters. 

The work I here present to the public is necessarily of a ramblingand somewhat disjointed nature, comprising various expeditions andadventures by land and sea. The facts, however, will prove to be linkedand banded together by one grand scheme, devised and conducted bya master spirit; one set of characters, also, continues throughout, appearing occasionally, though sometimes at long intervals, and thewhole enterprise winds up by a regular catastrophe; so that the work, without any labored attempt at artificial construction, actuallypossesses much of that unity so much sought after in works of fiction, and considered so important to the interest of every history. 

WASHINGTON IRVING

CHAPTER I. 

 Objects of American Enterprise. --Gold Hunting and Fur Trading. --Their Effect on Colonization. --Early French Canadian Settlers. --Ottawa and Huron Hunters. --An Indian Trading Camp. Coureurs Des Bois, or Rangers of the Woods. --Their Roaming Life. --Their Revels and Excesses. --Licensed Traders. Missionaries. --Trading Posts. --Primitive French Canadian Merchant. --His Establishment and Dependents. --British Canadian Fur Merchant. --Origin of the Northwest Company. --Its Constitution. --Its Internal Trade. --A Candidate for the Company. --Privations in the Wilderness. --Northwest Clerks. Northwest Partners. --Northwest Nabobs. --Feudal Notions in the Forests. --The Lords of the Lakes. --Fort William. --Its Parliamentary Hall and Banqueting Room. --Wassailing in the Wilderness. 

TWO leading objects of commercial gain have given birth to wide anddaring enterprise in the early history of the Americas; the preciousmetals of the South, and the rich peltries of the North. While the fieryand magnificent Spaniard, inflamed with the mania for gold, has extendedhis discoveries and conquests over those brilliant countries scorched bythe ardent sun of the tropics, the adroit and buoyant Frenchman, and thecool and calculating Briton, have pursued the less splendid, but noless lucrative, traffic in furs amidst the hyperborean regions of theCanadas, until they have advanced even within the Arctic Circle. 

These two pursuits have thus in a manner been the pioneers andprecursors of civilization. Without pausing on the borders, they havepenetrated at once, in defiance of difficulties and dangers, to theheart of savage countries: laying open the hidden secrets of thewilderness; leading the way to remote regions of beauty and fertilitythat might have remained unexplored for ages, and beckoning after themthe slow and pausing steps of agriculture and civilization. 

It was the fur trade, in fact, which gave early sustenance and vitalityto the great Canadian provinces. Being destitute of the precious metals, at that time the leading objects of American enterprise, they were longneglected by the parent country. The French adventurers, however, whohad settled on the banks of the St. Lawrence, soon found that in therich peltries of the interior, they had sources of wealth thatmight almost rival the mines of Mexico and Peru. The Indians, as yetunacquainted with the artificial value given to some descriptions offurs, in civilized life, brought quantities of the most precious kindsand bartered them away for European trinkets and cheap commodities. Immense profits were thus made by the early traders, and the traffic waspursued with avidity. 

As the valuable furs soon became scarce in the neighborhood of thesettlements, the Indians of the vicinity were stimulated to take a widerrange in their hunting expeditions; they were generally accompanied onthese expeditions by some of the traders or their dependents, whoshared in the toils and perils of the chase, and at the same time madethemselves acquainted with the best hunting and trapping grounds, andwith the remote tribes, whom they encouraged to bring their peltriesto the settlements. In this way the trade augmented, and was drawn fromremote quarters to Montreal. Every now and then a large body of Ottawas, Hurons, and other tribes who hunted the countries bordering on the greatlakes, would come down in a squadron of light canoes, laden with beaverskins, and other spoils of their year's hunting. The canoes would beunladen, taken on shore, and their contents disposed in order. A camp ofbirch bark would be pitched outside of the town, and a kind of primitivefair opened with that grave ceremonial so dear to the Indians. Anaudience would be demanded of the governor-general, who would holdthe conference with becoming state, seated in an elbow-chair, with theIndians ranged in semicircles before him, seated on the ground, and silently smoking their pipes. Speeches would be made, presentsexchanged, and the audience would break up in universal good humor. 

Now would ensue a brisk traffic with the merchants, and all Montrealwould be alive with naked Indians running from shop to shop, bargainingfor arms, kettles, knives, axes, blankets, bright-colored cloths, andother articles of use or fancy; upon all which, says an old Frenchwriter, the merchants were sure to clear at least two hundred per cent. There was no money used in this traffic, and, after a time, all paymentin spirituous liquors was prohibited, in consequence of the frantic andfrightful excesses and bloody brawls which they were apt to occasion. 

Their wants and caprices being supplied, they would take leave of thegovernor, strike their tents, launch their canoes, and ply their way upthe Ottawa to the lakes. 

A new and anomalous class of men gradually grew out of this trade. Thesewere called coureurs des bois, rangers of the woods; originally menwho had accompanied the Indians in their hunting expeditions, and madethemselves acquainted with remote tracts and tribes; and who now became, as it were, peddlers of the wilderness. These men would set out fromMontreal with canoes well stocked with goods, with arms and ammunition, and would make their way up the mazy and wandering rivers that interlacethe vast forests of the Canadas, coasting the most remote lakes, andcreating new wants and habitudes among the natives. Sometimes theysojourned for months among them, assimilating to their tastes and habitswith the happy facility of Frenchmen, adopting in some degree the Indiandress, and not unfrequently taking to themselves Indian wives. 

Twelve, fifteen, eighteen months would often elapse without any tidingsof them, when they would come sweeping their way down the Ottawa in fullglee, their canoes laden down with packs of beaver skins. Now came theirturn for revelry and extravagance. "You would be amazed, " says an oldwriter already quoted, "if you saw how lewd these peddlers are when theyreturn; how they feast and game, and how prodigal they are, not only intheir clothes, but upon their sweethearts. Such of them as are marriedhave the wisdom to retire to their own houses; but the bachelors actjust as an East Indiaman and pirates are wont to do; for they lavish, eat, drink, and play all away as long as the goods hold out; and whenthese are gone, they even sell their embroidery, their lace, and theirclothes. This done, they are forced upon a new voyage for subsistence. "

Many of these coureurs des bois became so accustomed to the Indian modeof living, and the perfect freedom of the wilderness, that they lostrelish for civilization, and identified themselves with the savagesamong whom they dwelt, or could only be distinguished from them bysuperior licentiousness. Their conduct and example gradually corruptedthe natives, and impeded the works of the Catholic missionaries, whowere at this time prosecuting their pious labors in the wilds of Canada. 

To check these abuses, and to protect the fur trade from variousirregularities practiced by these loose adventurers, an order was issuedby the French government prohibiting all persons, on pain of death, fromtrading into the interior of the country without a license. 

These licenses were granted in writing by the governor-general, andat first were given only to persons of respectability; to gentlemen ofbroken fortunes; to old officers of the army who had families to providefor; or to their widows. Each license permitted the fitting out oftwo large canoes with merchandise for the lakes, and no more thantwenty-five licenses were to be issued in one year. By degrees, however, private licenses were also granted, and the number rapidly increased. Those who did not choose to fit out the expeditions themselves, werepermitted to sell them to the merchants; these employed the coureurs desbois, or rangers of the woods, to undertake the long voyages on shares, and thus the abuses of the old system were revived and continued. 

The pious missionaries employed by the Roman Catholic Church to convertthe Indians, did everything in their power to counteract the profligacycaused and propagated by these men in the heart of the wilderness. TheCatholic chapel might often be seen planted beside the trading house, and its spire surmounted by a cross, towering from the midst of anIndian village, on the banks of a river or a lake. The missions hadoften a beneficial effect on the simple sons of the forest, but hadlittle power over the renegades from civilization. 

At length it was found necessary to establish fortified posts at theconfluence of the rivers and the lakes for the protection of the trade, and the restraint of these profligates of the wilderness. The mostimportant of these was at Michilimackinac, situated at the strait of thesame name, which connects Lakes Huron and Michigan. It became the greatinterior mart and place of deposit, and some of the regular merchantswho prosecuted the trade in person, under their licenses, formedestablishments here. This, too, was a rendezvous for the rangers of thewoods, as well those who came up with goods from Montreal as those whoreturned with peltries from the interior. Here new expeditionswere fitted out and took their departure for Lake Michigan and theMississippi; Lake Superior and the Northwest; and here the peltriesbrought in return were embarked for Montreal. 

The French merchant at his trading post, in these primitive days ofCanada, was a kind of commercial patriarch. With the lax habits and easyfamiliarity of his race, he had a little world of self-indulgence andmisrule around him. He had his clerks, canoe men, and retainers ofall kinds, who lived with him on terms of perfect sociability, alwayscalling him by his Christian name; he had his harem of Indian beauties, and his troop of halfbreed children; nor was there ever wanting alouting train of Indians, hanging about the establishment, eating anddrinking at his expense in the intervals of their hunting expeditions. 

The Canadian traders, for a long time, had troublesome competitors inthe British merchants of New York, who inveigled the Indian huntersand the coureurs des bois to their posts, and traded with them on morefavorable terms. A still more formidable opposition was organized inthe Hudson's Bay Company, chartered by Charles II. , in 1670, with theexclusive privilege of establishing trading houses on the shores of thatbay and its tributary rivers; a privilege which they have maintained tothe present day. Between this British company and the French merchantsof Canada, feuds and contests arose about alleged infringements ofterritorial limits, and acts of violence and bloodshed occurred betweentheir agents. 

In 1762, the French lost possession of Canada, and the trade fellprincipally into the hands of British subjects. For a time, however, itshrunk within narrow limits. The old coureurs des bois were broken upand dispersed, or, where they could be met with, were slow to accustomthemselves to the habits and manners of their British employers. Theymissed the freedom, indulgence, and familiarity of the old Frenchtrading houses, and did not relish the sober exactness, reserve, andmethod of the new-comers. The British traders, too, were ignorant of thecountry, and distrustful of the natives. They had reason to be so. Thetreacherous and bloody affairs of Detroit and Michilimackinac showedthem the lurking hostility cherished by the savages, who had too longbeen taught by the French to regard them as enemies. 

It was not until the year 1766, that the trade regained its oldchannels; but it was then pursued with much avidity and emulationby individual merchants, and soon transcended its former bounds. Expeditions were fitted out by various persons from Montreal andMichilimackinac, and rivalships and jealousies of course ensued. Thetrade was injured by their artifices to outbid and undermine each other;the Indians were debauched by the sale of spirituous liquors, which hadbeen prohibited under the French rule. Scenes of drunkeness, brutality, and brawl were the consequence, in the Indian villages and around thetrading houses; while bloody feuds took place between rival tradingparties when they happened to encounter each other in the lawless depthsof the wilderness. 

To put an end to these sordid and ruinous contentions, several of theprincipal merchants of Montreal entered into a partnership in the winterof 1783, which was augmented by amalgamation with a rival company in1787. Thus was created the famous "Northwest Company, " which for a timeheld a lordly sway over the wintry lakes and boundless forests ofthe Canadas, almost equal to that of the East India Company over thevoluptuous climes and magnificent realms of the Orient. 

The company consisted of twenty-three shareholders, or partners, but held in its employ about two thousand persons as clerks, guides, interpreters, and "voyageurs, " or boatmen. These were distributed atvarious trading posts, established far and wide on the interior lakesand rivers, at immense distances from each other, and in the heart oftrackless countries and savage tribes. 

Several of the partners resided in Montreal and Quebec, to managethe main concerns of the company. These were called agents, and werepersonages of great weight and importance; the other partners tooktheir stations at the interior posts, where they remained throughoutthe winter, to superintend the intercourse with the various tribes ofIndians. They were thence called wintering partners. 

The goods destined for this wide and wandering traffic were put up atthe warehouses of the company in Montreal, and conveyed in batteaux, orboats and canoes, up the river Attawa, or Ottowa, which falls into theSt. Lawrence near Montreal, and by other rivers and portages, to LakeNipising, Lake Huron, Lake Superior, and thence, by several chains ofgreat and small lakes, to Lake Winnipeg, Lake Athabasca, and the GreatSlave Lake. This singular and beautiful system of internal seas, whichrenders an immense region of wilderness so accessible to the frail barkof the Indian or the trader, was studded by the remote posts of thecompany, where they carried on their traffic with the surroundingtribes. 

The company, as we have shown, was at first a spontaneous association ofmerchants; but, after it had been regularly organized, admission intoit became extremely difficult. A candidate had to enter, as it were, "before the mast, " to undergo a long probation, and to rise slowly byhis merits and services. He began, at an early age, as a clerk, andserved an apprenticeship of seven years, for which he received onehundred pounds sterling, was maintained at the expense of the company, and furnished with suitable clothing and equipments. His probation wasgenerally passed at the interior trading posts; removed for years fromcivilized society, leading a life almost as wild and precarious as thesavages around him; exposed to the severities of a northern winter, often suffering from a scarcity of food, and sometimes destitute for along time of both bread and salt. When his apprenticeship had expired, he received a salary according to his deserts, varying from eighty toone hundred and sixty pounds sterling, and was now eligible to the greatobject of his ambition, a partnership in the company; though years mightyet elapse before he attained to that enviable station. 

Most of the clerks were young men of good families, from the Highlandsof Scotland, characterized by the perseverance, thrift, and fidelityof their country, and fitted by their native hardihood to encounter therigorous climate of the North, and to endure the trials and privationsof their lot; though it must not be concealed that the constitutionsof many of them became impaired by the hardships of the wilderness, andtheir stomachs injured by occasional famishing, and especially by thewant of bread and salt. Now and then, at an interval of years, they werepermitted to come down on a visit to the establishment at Montreal, torecruit their health, and to have a taste of civilized life; and thesewere brilliant spots in their existence. 

As to the principal partners, or agents, who resided in Montreal andQuebec, they formed a kind of commercial aristocracy, living inlordly and hospitable style. Their posts, and the pleasures, dangers, adventures, and mishaps which they had shared together in their wildwood life, had linked them heartily to each other, so that they formeda convivial fraternity. Few travellers that have visited Canada somethirty years since, in the days of the M'Tavishes, the M'Gillivrays, theM'Kenzies, the Frobishers, and the other magnates of the Northwest, when the company was in all its glory, but must remember the round offeasting and revelry kept up among these hyperborean nabobs. 

Sometimes one or two partners, recently from the interior posts, wouldmake their appearance in New York, in the course of a tour of pleasureand curiosity. On these occasions there was a degree of magnificence ofthe purse about them, and a peculiar propensity to expenditure atthe goldsmith's and jeweler's for rings, chains, brooches, necklaces, jeweled watches, and other rich trinkets, partly for their ownwear, partly for presents to their female acquaintances; a gorgeousprodigality, such as was often to be noticed in former times in Southernplanters and West India creoles, when flush with the profits of theirplantations. 

To behold the Northwest Company in all its state and grandeur, however, it was necessary to witness an annual gathering at the great interiorplace of conference established at Fort William, near what is calledthe Grand Portage, on Lake Superior. Here two or three of the leadingpartners from Montreal proceeded once a year to meet the partners fromthe various trading posts of the wilderness, to discuss the affairsof the company during the preceding year, and to arrange plans for thefuture. 

On these occasions might be seen the change since the unceremonioustimes of the old French traders; now the aristocratic character of theBriton shone forth magnificently, or rather the feudal spirit of theHighlander. Every partner who had charge of an interior post, and ascore of retainers at his Command, felt like the chieftain of a Highlandclan, and was almost as important in the eyes of his dependents as ofhimself. To him a visit to the grand conference at Fort William wasa most important event, and he repaired there as to a meeting ofparliament. 

The partners from Montreal, however, were the lords of the ascendant;coming from the midst of luxurious and ostentatious life, they quiteeclipsed their compeers from the woods, whose forms and faces hadbeen battered and hardened by hard living and hard service, and whosegarments and equipments were all the worse for wear. Indeed, thepartners from below considered the whole dignity of the company asrepresented in their persons, and conducted themselves in suitablestyle. They ascended the rivers in great state, like sovereigns makinga progress: or rather like Highland chieftains navigating their subjectlakes. They were wrapped in rich furs, their huge canoes freightedwith every convenience and luxury, and manned by Canadian voyageurs, as obedient as Highland clansmen. They carried up with them cooks andbakers, together with delicacies of every kind, and abundance of choicewines for the banquets which attended this great convocation. Happy werethey, too, if they could meet with some distinguished stranger; aboveall, some titled member of the British nobility, to accompany them onthis stately occasion, and grace their high solemnities. 

Fort William, the scene of this important annual meeting, was aconsiderable village on the banks of Lake Superior. Here, in an immensewooden building, was the great council hall, as also the banquetingchamber, decorated with Indian arms and accoutrements, and the trophiesof the fur trade. The house swarmed at this time with traders andvoyageurs, some from Montreal, bound to the interior posts; some fromthe interior posts, bound to Montreal. The councils were held in greatstate, for every member felt as if sitting in parliament, and everyretainer and dependent looked up to the assemblage with awe, as to theHouse of Lords. There was a vast deal of solemn deliberation, and hardScottish reasoning, with an occasional swell of pompous declamation. 

These grave and weighty councils were alternated by huge feasts andrevels, like some of the old feasts described in Highland castles. Thetables in the great banqueting room groaned under the weight of gameof all kinds; of venison from the woods, and fish from the lakes, withhunters' delicacies, such as buffalos' tongues, and beavers' tails, and various luxuries from Montreal, all served up by experienced cooksbrought for the purpose. There was no stint of generous wine, for it wasa hard-drinking period, a time of loyal toasts, and bacchanalian songs, and brimming bumpers. 

While the chiefs thus revelled in hall, and made the rafters resoundwith bursts of loyalty and old Scottish songs, chanted in voices crackedand sharpened by the northern blast, their merriment was echoedand prolonged by a mongrel legion of retainers, Canadian voyageurs, half-breeds, Indian hunters, and vagabond hangers-on who feastedsumptuously without on the crumbs that fell from their table, and madethe welkin ring with old French ditties, mingled with Indian yelps andyellings. 

Such was the Northwest Company in its powerful and prosperous days, whenit held a kind of feudal sway over a vast domain of lake and forest. Weare dwelling too long, perhaps, upon these individual pictures, endearedto us by the associations of early life, when, as yet a stripling youth, we have sat at the hospitable boards of the "mighty Northwesters, "the lords of the ascendant at Montreal, and gazed with wonderingand inexperienced eye at the baronial wassailing, and listened withastonished ear to their tales of hardship and adventures. It is oneobject of our task, however, to present scenes of the rough life of thewilderness, and we are tempted to fix these few memorials of a transientstate of things fast passing into oblivion; for the feudal state of FortWilliam is at an end, its council chamber is silent and deserted; itsbanquet hall no longer echoes to the burst of loyalty, or the "auldworld" ditty; the lords of the lakes and forests have passed away; andthe hospitable magnates of Montreal where are they?

CHAPTER II. 

 Rise of the Mackinaw Company. --Attempt of the American Government to Counteract Foreign Influence Over the Indian Tribes. --John Jacob Astor. --His Birth-Place. --His Arrival in the United States. --What First Turned His Attention to the Fur Trade. --His Character, Enterprises, and Success. --His Communications With the American Government. --Origin of the American Fur Company

THE success of the Northwest Company stimulated further enterprise inthis opening and apparently boundless field of profit. The traffic ofthat company lay principally in the high northern latitudes, whilethere were immense regions to the south and west, known to abound withvaluable peltries; but which, as yet, had been but little explored bythe fur trader. A new association of British merchants was thereforeformed, to prosecute the trade in this direction. The chief factory wasestablished at the old emporium of Michilimackinac, from which place theassociation took its name, and was commonly called the Mackinaw Company. 

While the Northwesters continued to push their enterprises into thehyperborean regions from their stronghold at Fort William, and to holdalmost sovereign sway over the tribes of the upper lakes and rivers, the Mackinaw Company sent forth their light perogues and barks, by GreenBay, Fox River, and the Wisconsin, to that areas artery of the West, theMississippi; and down that stream to all its tributary rivers. In thisway they hoped soon to monopolize the trade with all the tribes onthe southern and western waters, and of those vast tracts comprised inancient Louisiana. 

The government of the United States began to view with a wary eye thegrowing influence thus acquired by combinations of foreigners, overthe aboriginal tribes inhabiting its territories, and endeavored tocounteract it. For this purpose, as early as 1796, the government sentout agents to establish rival trading houses on the frontier, so as tosupply the wants of the Indians, to link their interests and feelingswith those of the people of the United States, and to divert thisimportant branch of trade into national channels. 

The expedition, however, was unsuccessful, as most commercial expedientsare prone to be, where the dull patronage of government is countedupon to outvie the keen activity of private enterprise. What governmentfailed to effect, however, with all its patronage and all its agents, was at length brought about by the enterprise and perseverance of asingle merchant, one of its adopted citizens; and this brings us tospeak of the individual whose enterprise is the especial subject ofthe following pages; a man whose name and character are worthy of beingenrolled in the history of commerce, as illustrating its noblest aimsand soundest maxims. A few brief anecdotes of his early life, and of thecircumstances which first determined him to the branch of commerce ofwhich we are treating, cannot be but interesting. 

John Jacob Astor, the individual in question, was born in the honestlittle German village of Waldorf, near Heidelberg, on the banks of theRhine. He was brought up in the simplicity of rural life, but, whileyet a mere stripling, left his home, and launched himself amid thebusy scenes of London, having had, from his very boyhood, a singularpresentiment that he would ultimately arrive at great fortune. 

At the close of the American Revolution he was still in London, andscarce on the threshold of active life. An elder brother had been forsome few years resident in the United States, and Mr. Astor determinedto follow him, and to seek his fortunes in the rising country. Investinga small sum which he had amassed since leaving his native village, inmerchandise suited to the American market, he embarked, in the monthof November, 1783, in a ship bound to Baltimore, and arrived in HamptonRoads in the month of January. The winter was extremely severe, and theship, with many others, was detained by the ice in and about ChesapeakeBay for nearly three months. 

During this period, the passengers of the various ships usedoccasionally to go on shore, and mingle sociably together. In thisway Mr. Astor became acquainted with a countryman of his, a furrier bytrade. Having had a previous impression that this might be a lucrativetrade in the New World, he made many inquiries of his new acquaintanceon the subject, who cheerfully gave him all the information in his poweras to the quality and value of different furs, and the mode of carryingon the traffic. He subsequently accompanied him to New York, and, by hisadvice, Mr. Astor was induced to invest the proceeds of his merchandisein furs. With these he sailed from New York to London in 1784, disposedof them advantageously, made himself further acquainted with the courseof the trade, and returned the same year to New York, with a view tosettle in the United States. 

He now devoted himself to the branch of commerce with which he had thuscasually been made acquainted. He began his career, of course, on thenarrowest scale; but he brought to the task a persevering industry, rigid economy, and strict integrity. To these were added an aspiringspirit that always looked upwards; a genius bold, fertile, andexpansive; a sagacity quick to grasp and convert every circumstance toits advantage, and a singular and never wavering confidence of signalsuccess. 

As yet, trade in peltries was not organized in the United States, andcould not be said to form a regular line of business. Furs and skinswere casually collected by the country traders in their dealings withthe Indians or the white hunters, but the main supply was derivedfrom Canada. As Mr. Astor's means increased, he made annual visits toMontreal, where he purchased furs from the houses at that place engagedin the trade. These he shipped from Canada to London, no direct tradebeing allowed from that colony to any but the mother country. 

In 1794 or '95, a treaty with Great Britain removed the restrictionsimposed upon the trade with the colonies, and opened a direct commercialintercourse between Canada and the United States. Mr. Astor was inLondon at the time, and immediately made a contract with the agents ofthe Northwest Company for furs. He was now enabled to import them fromMontreal into the United States for the home supply, and to be shippedthence to different parts of Europe, as well as to China, which has everbeen the best market for the richest and finest kinds of peltry. 

The treaty in question provided, likewise, that the military postsoccupied by the British within the territorial limits of the UnitedStates, should be surrendered. Accordingly, Oswego, Niagara, Detroit, Michilimackinac, and other posts on the American side of the lakes, weregiven up. An opening was thus made for the American merchant to trade onthe confines of Canada, and within the territories of the United States. After an interval of some years, about 1807, Mr. Astor embarked in thistrade on his own account. His capital and resources had by this timegreatly augmented, and he had risen from small beginnings to take hisplace among the first merchants and financiers of the country. Hisgenius had ever been in advance of his circumstances, prompting himto new and wide fields of enterprise beyond the scope of ordinarymerchants. With all his enterprise and resources however, he soon foundthe power and influence of the Michilimackinac (or Mackinaw) Company toogreat for him, having engrossed most of the trade within the Americanborders. 

A plan had to be devised to enable him to enter into successfulcompetition. He was aware of the wish of the American government, already stated, that the fur trade within its boundaries should be inthe hands of American citizens, and of the ineffectual measures it hadtaken to accomplish that object. He now offered, if aided and protectedby government, to turn the whole of that trade into American channels. He was invited to unfold his plans to government, and they were warmlyapproved, though the executive could give no direct aid. 

Thus countenanced, however, he obtained, in 1809, a charter from thelegislature of the State of New York, incorporating a company under thename of "The American Fur Company, " with a capital of one millionof dollars, with the privilege of increasing it to two millions. Thecapital was furnished by himself he, in fact, constituted the company;for, though he had a board of directors, they were merely nominal; thewhole business was conducted on his plans and with his resources, buthe preferred to do so under the imposing and formidable aspect of acorporation, rather than in his individual name, and his policy wassagacious and effective. 

As the Mackinaw Company still continued its rivalry, and as the furtrade would not advantageously admit of competition, he made a newarrangement in 1811, by which, in conjunction with certain partners ofthe Northwest Company, and other persons engaged in the fur trade, hebought out the Mackinaw Company, and merged that and the American FurCompany into a new association, to be called the "Southwest Company. "This he likewise did with the privity and approbation of the Americangovernment. 

By this arrangement Mr. Astor became proprietor of one half of theIndian establishments and goods which the Mackinaw Company had withinthe territory of the Indian country in the United States, and it wasunderstood that the whole was to be surrendered into his hands at theexpiration of five years, on condition that the American Company wouldnot trade within the British dominions. 

Unluckily, the war which broke out in 1812 between Great Britain andthe United States suspended the association; and, after the war, it wasentirely dissolved; Congress having passed a law prohibiting the Britishfur traders from prosecuting their enterprises within the territories ofthe United States. 

CHAPTER III. 

 Fur Trade in the Pacific--American Coasting Voyages--Russian Enterprises. --Discovery of the Columbia River. --Carver's Project to Found a Settlement There. --Mackenzie's Expedition. --Lewis and Clarke's Journey Across the Rocky Mountains--Mr. Astor's Grand Commercial Scheme. --His Correspondence on the Subject With Mr. Jefferson. --His Negotiations With the Northwest Company. --His Steps to Carry His Scheme Into Effect. 

WHILE the various companies we have noticed were pushing theirenterprises far and wide in the wilds of Canada, and along the course ofthe great western waters, other adventurers, intent on the same objects, were traversing the watery wastes of the Pacific and skirting thenorthwest coast of America. The last voyage of that renowned butunfortunate discoverer, Captain Cook, had made known the vast quantitiesof the sea-otter to be found along that coast, and the immense prices tobe obtained for its fur in China. It was as if a new gold coast hadbeen discovered. Individuals from various countries dashed into thislucrative traffic, so that in the year 1792, there were twenty-onevessels under different flags, plying along the coast and trading withthe natives. The greater part of them were American, and owned by Bostonmerchants. They generally remained on the coast and about the adjacentseas, for two years, carrying on as wandering and adventurous a commerceon the water as did the traders and trappers on land. Their tradeextended along the whole coast from California to the high northernlatitudes. They would run in near shore, anchor, and wait for thenatives to come off in their canoes with peltries. The trade exhaustedat one place, they would up anchor and off to another. In this way theywould consume the summer, and when autumn came on, would run down to theSandwich Islands and winter in some friendly and plentiful harbor. Inthe following year they would resume their summer trade, commencing atCalifornia and proceeding north: and, having in the course of the twoseasons collected a sufficient cargo of peltries, would make the bestof their way to China. Here they would sell their furs, take in teas, nankeens, and other merchandise, and return to Boston, after an absenceof two or three years. 

The people, however, who entered most extensively and effectively in thefur trade of the Pacific, were the Russians. Instead of making casualvoyages, in transient ships, they established regular trading houses inthe high latitudes, along the northwest coast of America, and upon thechain of the Aleutian Islands between Kamtschatka and the promontory ofAlaska. 

To promote and protect these enterprises, a company was incorporated bythe Russian government with exclusive privileges, and a capital of twohundred and sixty thousand pounds sterling; and the sovereignty of thatpart of the American continent, along the coast of which the posts hadbeen established, was claimed by the Russian crown, on the plea that theland had been discovered and occupied by its subjects. 

As China was the grand mart for the furs collected in these quarters, the Russians had the advantage over their competitors in the trade. Thelatter had to take their peltries to Canton, which, however, was a merereceiving mart, from whence they had to be distributed over the interiorof the empire and sent to the northern parts, where there was the chiefconsumption. The Russians, on the contrary, carried their furs, by ashorter voyage, directly to the northern parts of the Chinese empire;thus being able to afford them in the market without the additional costof internal transportation. 

We come now to the immediate field of operation of the great enterprisewe have undertaken to illustrate. 

Among the American ships which traded along the northwest coast in 1792, was the Columbia, Captain Gray, of Boston. In the course of her voyageshe discovered the mouth of a large river in lat. 46 19' north. Enteringit with some difficulty, on account of sand-bars and breakers, she cameto anchor in a spacious bay. A boat was well manned, and sent on shoreto a village on the beach, but all the inhabitants fled excepting theaged and infirm. The kind manner in which these were treated, and thepresents given them, gradually lured back the others, and a friendlyintercourse took place. They had never seen a ship or a white man. Whenthey had first descried the Columbia, they had supposed it a floatingisland; then some monster of the deep; but when they saw the boatputting for shore with human beings on board, they considered themcannibals sent by the Great Spirit to ravage the country and devour theinhabitants. Captain Gray did not ascend the river farther than the bayin question, which continues to bear his name. After putting to sea, hefell in with the celebrated discoverer, Vancouver, and informed himof his discovery, furnished him with a chart which he had made of theriver. Vancouver visited the river, and his lieutenant, Broughton, explored it by the aid of Captain Gray's chart; ascending it upwards ofone hundred miles, until within view of a snowy mountain, to which hegave the name of Mt. Hood, which it still retains. 

The existence of this river, however, was known long before the visitsof Gray and Vancouver, but the information concerning it was vague andindefinite, being gathered from the reports of Indians. It was spokenof by travellers as the Oregon, and as the Great River of the West. ASpanish ship is said to have been wrecked at the mouth, several of thecrew of which lived for some time among the natives. The Columbia, however, is believed to be the first ship that made a regular discoveryand anchored within its waters, and it has since generally borne thename of that vessel. As early as 1763, shortly after the acquisition ofthe Canadas by Great Britain, Captain Jonathan Carver, who had been inthe British provincial army, projected a journey across the continentbetween the forty-third and forty-sixth degrees of northern latitudeto the shores of the Pacific Ocean. His objects were to ascertain thebreadth of the continent at its broadest part, and to determine on someplace on the shores of the Pacific, where government might establisha post to facilitate the discovery of a northwest passage, or acommunication between Hudson's Bay and the Pacific Ocean. This place hepresumed would be somewhere about the Straits of Annian, at which pointhe supposed the Oregon disembogued itself. It was his opinion, also, that a settlement on this extremity of America would disclose newsources of trade, promote many useful discoveries, and open a moredirect communication with China and the English settlements in the EastIndies, than that by the Cape of Good Hope or the Straits of Magellan. *This enterprising and intrepid traveller was twice baffled in individualefforts to accomplish this great journey. In 1774, he was joined inthe scheme by Richard Whitworth, a member of Parliament, and a man ofwealth. Their enterprise was projected on a broad and bold plan. Theywere to take with them fifty or sixty men, artificers and mariners. With these they were to make their way up one of the branches of theMissouri, explore the mountains for the source of the Oregon, or Riverof the West, and sail down that river to its supposed exit, near theStraits of Annian. Here they were to erect a fort, and build the vesselsnecessary to carry their discoveries by sea into effect. Their plan hadthe sanction of the British government, and grants and other requisiteswere nearly completed, when the breaking out of the American Revolutiononce more defeated the undertaking. **

The expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 1793, across the continentto the Pacific Ocean, which he reached in lat. 52 20' 48", againsuggested the possibility of linking together the trade of both sides ofthe continent. In lat. 52 30' he had descended a river for some distancewhich flowed towards the south, and wag called by the natives TacoutcheTesse, and which he erroneously supposed to be the Columbia. It wasafterwards ascertained that it emptied itself in lat. 49 degrees, whereas the mouth of the Columbia is about three degrees further south. 

When Mackenzie some years subsequently published an account of hisexpeditions, he suggested the policy of opening an intercourse betweenthe Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and forming regular establishmentsthrough the interior and at both extremes, as well as along the coastsand islands. By this means, he observed, the entire command of the furtrade of North America might be obtained from lat. 48 north to the pole, excepting that portion held by the Russians, for as to the Americanadventurers who had hitherto enjoyed the traffic along the northwestcoast, they would instantly disappear, he added, before a well regulatedtrade. 

A scheme of this kind, however, was too vast and hazardous forindividual enterprise; it could only be undertaken by a company underthe sanction and protection of a government; and as there might be aclashing of claims between the Hudson's Bay and Northwest Company, theone holding by right of charter, the other by right of possession, he proposed that the two comparties should coalesce in this greatundertaking. The long-cherished jealousies of these two companies, however, were too deep and strong to allow them to listen to suchcounsel. 

In the meantime the attention of the American government was attractedto the subject, and the memorable expedition under Messrs. Lewis andClarke fitted out. These gentlemen, in 1804, accomplished the enterprisewhich had been projected by Carver and Whitworth in 1774. Theyascended the Missouri, passed through the stupendous gates of the RockyMountains, hitherto unknown to white men; discovered and explored theupper waters of the Columbia, and followed that river down to itsmouth, where their countryman, Gray, had anchored about twelve yearspreviously. Here they passed the winter, and returned across themountains in the following spring. The reports published by them oftheir expedition demonstrated the practicability of establishing a lineof communication across the continent, from the Atlantic to the PacificOcean. 

It was then that the idea presented itself to the mind of Mr. Astor, ofgrasping with his individual hand this great enterprise, which for yearshad been dubiously yet desirously contemplated by powerful associationsand maternal governments. For some time he revolved the idea in hismind, gradually extending and maturing his plans as his means ofexecuting them augmented. The main feature of his scheme was toestablish a line of trading posts along the Missouri and the Columbia, to the mouth of the latter, where was to be founded the chief tradinghouse or mart. Inferior posts would be established in the interior, andon all the tributary streams of the Columbia, to trade with the Indians;these posts would draw their supplies from the main establishment, andbring to it the peltries they collected. Coasting craft would bebuilt and fitted out, also at the mouth of the Columbia, to trade, atfavorable seasons, all along the northwest coast, and return, with theproceeds of their voyages, to this place of deposit. Thus all the Indiantrade, both of the interior and the coast, would converge to this point, and thence derive its sustenance. 

A ship was to be sent annually from New York to this main establishmentwith reinforcements and supplies, and with merchandise suited to thetrade. It would take on board the furs collected during the precedingyear, carry them to Canton, invest the proceeds in the rich merchandiseof China, and return thus freighted to New York. As, in extending theAmerican trade along the coast to the northward, it might be broughtinto the vicinity of the Russian Fur Company, and produce a hostilerivalry, it was part of the plan of Mr. Astor to conciliate thegood-will of that company by the most amicable and beneficialarrangements. The Russian establishment was chiefly dependent for itssupplies upon transient trading vessels from the United States. Thesevessels, however, were often of more harm than advantage. Being ownedby private adventurers, or casual voyagers, who cared only for presentprofit, and had no interest in the permanent prosperity of the trade, they were reckless in their dealings with the natives, and made noscruple of supplying them with fire-arms. In this way several fiercetribes in the vicinity of the Russian posts, or within the range oftheir trading excursions, were furnished with deadly means of warfare, and rendered troublesome and dangerous neighbors. 

The Russian government had made representations to that of the UnitedStates of these malpractices on the part of its citizens, and urged tohave this traffic in arms prohibited; but, as it did not infringeany municipal law, our government could not interfere. Yet, still itregarded, with solicitude, a traffic which, if persisted in, might giveoffence to Russia, at that time almost the only friendly power to us. Inthis dilemma the government had applied to Mr. Astor, as one conversantin this branch of trade, for information that might point out a wayto remedy the evil. This circumstance had suggested to him the idea ofsupplying the Russian establishment regularly by means of the annualship that should visit the settlement at the mouth of the Columbia (orOregon); by this means the casual trading vessels would be excludedfrom those parts of the coast where their malpractices were so injuriousto the Russians. 

Such is a brief outline of the enterprise projected by Mr. Astor, butwhich continually expanded in his mind. Indeed it is due to him to saythat he was not actuated by mere motives of individual profit. He wasalready wealthy beyond the ordinary desires of man, but he now aspiredto that honorable fame which is awarded to men of similar scope of mind, who by their great commercial enterprises have enriched nations, peopledwildernesses, and extended the bounds of empire. He considered hisprojected establishment at the mouth of the Columbia as the emporiumto an immense commerce; as a colony that would form the germ of a widecivilization; that would, in fact, carry the American population acrossthe Rocky Mountains and spread it along the shores of the Pacific, asit already animated the shores of the Atlantic. As Mr. Astor, by themagnitude of his commercial and financial relations, and the vigorand scope of his self-taught mind, had elevated himself into theconsideration of government and the communion and correspondence withleading statesmen, he, at an early period, communicated his schemesto President Jefferson, soliciting the countenance of government. Howhighly they were esteemed by that eminent man, we may judge by thefollowing passage, written by him some time afterwards. 

"I remember well having invited your proposition on this subject, *** andencouraged it with the assurance of every facility and protection whichthe government could properly afford. I considered, as a great publicacquisition, the commencement of a settlement on that point of thewestern coast of America, and looked forward with gratification to thetime when its descendants should have spread themselves through thewhole length of that coast, covering it with free and independentAmericans, unconnected with us but by the ties of blood and interest, and enjoying like us the rights of self-government. "

The cabinet joined with Mr. Jefferson in warm approbation of the plan, and held out assurance of every protection that could, consistently withgeneral policy, be afforded. Mr. Astor now prepared to carry his schemeinto prompt execution. He had some competition, however, to apprehendand guard against. The Northwest Company, acting feebly and partiallyupon the suggestions of its former agent, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, hadpushed one or two advanced trading posts across the Rocky Mountains, into a tract of country visited by that enterprising traveller, andsince named New Caledonia. This tract lay about two degrees north of theColumbia, and intervened between the territories of the United Statesand those of Russia. Its length was about five hundred and fifty miles, and its breadth, from the mountains to the Pacific, from three hundredto three hundred and fifty geographic miles. 

Should the Northwest Company persist in extending their trade in thatquarter, their competition might be of serious detriment to the plansof Mr. Astor. It is true they would contend with him to a vastdisadvantage, from the checks and restrictions to which they weresubjected. They were straitened on one side by the rivalry of theHudson's Bay Company; then they had no good post on the Pacific wherethey could receive supplies by sea for their establishments beyond themountains; nor, if they had one, could they ship their furs thence toChina, that great mart for peltries; the Chinese trade being comprisedin the monopoly of the East India Company. Their posts beyond themountains had to be supplied in yearly expeditions, like caravans, from Montreal, and the furs conveyed back in the same way, by long, precarious, and expensive routes, across the continent. Mr. Astor, onthe contrary, would be able to supply his proposed establishment atthe mouth of the Columbia by sea, and to ship the furs collected theredirectly to China, so as to undersell the Northwest Company in the greatChinese market. 

Still, the competition of two rival companies west of the RockyMountains could not but prove detrimental to both, and fraught withthose evils, both to the trade and to the Indians, that had attendedsimilar rivalries in the Canadas. To prevent any contest of the kind, therefore, he made known his plan to the agents of the NorthwestCompany, and proposed to interest them, to the extent of one third, inthe trade thus to be opened. Some correspondence and negotiation ensued. The company were aware of the advantages which would be possessed byMr. Astor should he be able to carry his scheme into effect; but theyanticipated a monopoly of the trade beyond the mountains by theirestablishments in New Caledonia, and were loth to share it with anindividual who had already proved a formidable competitor in theAtlantic trade. They hoped, too, by a timely move, to secure the mouthof the Columbia before Mr. Astor would be able to put his plans intooperation; and, that key to the internal trade once in their possession, the whole country would be at their command. After some negotiation anddelay, therefore, they declined the proposition that had been made tothem, but subsequently despatched a party for the mouth of the Columbia, to establish a post there before any expedition sent out by Mr. Astormight arrive. 

In the meantime Mr. Astor, finding his overtures rejected, proceededfearlessly to execute his enterprise in face of the whole power of theNorthwest Company. His main establishment once planted at the mouth ofthe Columbia, he looked with confidence to ultimate success. Being ableto reinforce and supply it amply by sea, he would push his interiorposts in every direction up the rivers and along the coast; supplyingthe natives at a lower rate, and thus gradually obliging the NorthwestCompany to give up the competition, relinquish New Caledonia, and retireto the other side of the mountains. He would then have possession ofthe trade, not merely of the Columbia and its tributaries, but of theregions farther north, quite to the Russian possessions. Such was a partof his brilliant and comprehensive plan. 

He now proceeded, with all diligence, to procure proper agents andcoadjutors, habituated to the Indian trade and to the life of thewilderness. Among the clerks of the Northwest Company were several ofgreat capacity and experience, who had served out their probationaryterms, but who, either through lack of interest and influence, or awant of vacancies, had not been promoted. They were consequently muchdissatisfied, and ready for any employment in which their talents andacquirements might be turned to better account. 

Mr. Astor made his overtures to several of these persons, and threeof them entered into his views. One of these, Mr. Alexander M'Kay, hadaccompanied Sir Alexander Mackenzie in both of his expeditions to thenorthwest coast of America in 1789 and 1793. The other two were DuncanM'Dougal and Donald M'Kenzie. To these were subsequently added Mr. Wilson Price Hunt, of New Jersey. As this gentleman was a native borncitizen of the United States, a person of great probity and worth, hewas selected by Mr. Astor to be his chief agent, and to represent him inthe contemplated establishment. 

On the 23d of June, 1810, articles of agreement were entered intobetween Mr. Astor and those four gentlemen, acting for themselves andfor the several persons who had already agreed to become, or shouldthereafter become, associated under the firm of "The Pacific FurCompany. "

According to these articles, Mr. Astor was to be at the head of thecompany, and to manage its affairs in New York. He was to furnishvessels, goods, provisions, arms, ammunition, and all other requisitesfor the enterprise at first cost and charges, provided that they didnot, at any time, involve an advance of more than four hundred thousanddollars. 

The stock of the company was to be divided into a hundred equal shares, with the profits accruing thereon. Fifty shares were to be at thedisposition of Mr. Astor, and the other fifty to be divided among thepartners and their associates. 

Mr. Astor was to have the privilege of introducing other persons intothe connection as partners, two of whom, at least, should be conversantwith the Indian trade, and none of them entitled to more than threeshares. 

A general meeting of the company was to be held annually at ColumbiaRiver, for the investigation and regulation of its affairs; at whichabsent members might be represented, and might vote by proxy undercertain specified conditions. 

The association, if successful, was to continue for twenty years; butthe parties had full power to abandon and dissolve it within the firstfive years, should it be found unprofitable. For this term Mr. Astorcovenanted to bear all the loss that might be incurred; after which itwas to be borne by all the partners, in proportion to their respectiveshares. 

The parties of the second part were to execute faithfully such duties asmight be assigned to them by a majority of the company on the northwestcoast, and to repair to such place or places as the majority mightdirect. 

An agent, appointed for the term of five years, was to reside at theprincipal establishment on the northwest coast, and Wilson Price Huntwas the one chosen for the first term. Should the interests of theconcern at any time require his absence, a person was to be appointed, in general meeting, to take his place. 

Such were the leading conditions of this association; we shall nowproceed to relate the various hardy and eventful expeditions, by sea andland, to which it gave rise. 

 * Carver's Travels, Introd. B. Iii. Philad. 1796. 

 **Carver's Travels, p. 360. 

 *** On this point Mr. Jefferson's memory was in error. The proposition alluded to was the one, already mentioned, for the establishment of an American Fur Company in the Atlantic States. The great enterprise beyond the mountains, that was to sweep the shores of the Pacific, originated in the mind of Mr. Astor, and was proposed by him to the government. 

CHAPTER IV. 

 Two Expeditions Set on Foot. --The Tonquin and Her Crew. -- Captain Thorn, His Character. --The Partners and Clerks-- Canadian Voyageurs, Their Habits, Employments, Dress, Character, Songs--Expedition of a Canadian Boat and Its Crew by Land and Water. --Arrival at New York. --Preparations for a Sea Voyage. --Northwest Braggarts. --Underhand Precautions-- Letter of Instructions. 

IN prosecuting his great scheme of commerce and colonization, twoexpeditions were devised by Mr. Astor, one by sea, the other byland. The former was to carry out the people, stores, ammunition, andmerchandise, requisite for establishing a fortified trading post atthe mouth of Columbia River. The latter, conducted by Mr. Hunt, was toproceed up the Missouri, and across the Rocky Mountains, to the samepoint; exploring a line of communication across the continent andnoting the places where interior trading posts might be established. Theexpedition by sea is the one which comes first under consideration. 

A fine ship was provided called the Tonquin, of two hundred and ninetytons burden, mounting ten guns, with a crew of twenty men. She carriedan assortment of merchandise for trading with the natives of theseaboard and of the interior, together with the frame of a schooner, to be employed in the coasting trade. Seeds also were provided for thecultivation of the soil, and nothing was neglected for the necessarysupply of the establishment. The command of the ship was intrusted toJonathan Thorn, of New York, a lieutenant in the United States navy, on leave of absence. He was a man of courage and firmness, who haddistinguished himself in our Tripolitan war, and, from being accustomedto naval discipline, was considered by Mr. Astor as well fitted to takecharge of an expedition of the kind. Four of the partners were to embarkin the ship, namely, Messrs. M'Kay, M'Dougal, David Stuart, and hisnephew, Robert Stuart. Mr. M'Dougal was empowered by Mr. Astor to act ashis proxy in the absence of Mr. Hunt, to vote for him and in his name, on any question that might come before any meeting of the personsinterested in the voyage. 

Besides the partners, there were twelve clerks to go out in the ship, several of them natives of Canada, who had some experience in the Indiantrade. They were bound to the service of the company for five years, atthe rate of one hundred dollars a year, payable at the expiration ofthe term, and an annual equipment of clothing to the amount of fortydollars. In case of ill conduct they were liable to forfeit their wagesand be dismissed; but, should they acquit themselves well, the confidentexpectation was held out to them of promotion, and partnership. Theirinterests were thus, to some extent, identified with those of thecompany. 

Several artisans were likewise to sail in the ship, for the supply ofthe colony; but the most peculiar and characteristic part of this motleyembarkation consisted of thirteen Canadian "voyageurs, " who had enlistedfor five years. As this class of functionaries will continually recurin the course of the following narrations, and as they form one of thosedistinct and strongly marked castes or orders of people, springing upin this vast continent out of geographical circumstances, or the variedpursuits, habitudes, and origins of its population, we shall sketch afew of their characteristics for the information of the reader. 

The "voyageurs" form a kind of confraternity in the Canadas, like thearrieros, or carriers of Spain, and, like them, are employed in longinternal expeditions of travel and traffic: with this difference, thatthe arrieros travel by land, the voyageurs by water; the former withmules and horses, the latter with batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs maybe said to have sprung up out of the fur trade, having originally beenemployed by the early French merchants in their trading expeditionsthrough the labyrinth of rivers and lakes of the boundless interior. They were coeval with the coureurs des bois, or rangers of the woods, already noticed, and, like them, in the intervals of their long, arduous, and laborious expeditions, were prone to pass their time inidleness and revelry about the trading posts or settlements; squanderingtheir hard earnings in heedless conviviality, and rivaling theirneighbors, the Indians, in indolent indulgence and an imprudentdisregard of the morrow. 

When Canada passed under British domination, and the old French tradinghouses were broken up, the voyageurs, like the coureurs des bois, werefor a time disheartened and disconsolate, and with difficulty couldreconcile themselves to the service of the new-comers, so different inhabits, manners, and language from their former employers. By degrees, however, they became accustomed to the change, and at length came toconsider the British fur traders, and especially the members of theNorthwest Company, as the legitimate lords of creation. 

The dress of these people is generally half civilized, half savage. They wear a capot or surcoat, made of a blanket, a striped cotton shirt, cloth trousers, or leathern leggins, moccasins of deer-skin, and abelt of variegated worsted, from which are suspended the knife, tobacco-pouch, and other implements. Their language is of the samepiebald character, being a French patois, embroidered with Indian andEnglish words and phrases. 

The lives of the voyageurs are passed in wild and extensive rovings, inthe service of individuals, but more especially of the fur traders. They are generally of French descent, and inherit much of the gayety andlightness of heart of their ancestors, being full of anecdote and song, and ever ready for the dance. They inherit, too, a fund of civility andcomplaisance; and, instead of that hardness and grossness which men inlaborious life are apt to indulge towards each other, they are mutuallyobliging and accommodating; interchanging kind offices, yielding eachother assistance and comfort in every emergency, and using the familiarappellations of "cousin" and "brother" when there is in fact norelationship. Their natural good-will is probably heightened by acommunity of adventure and hardship in their precarious and wanderinglife. 

No men are more submissive to their leaders and employers, more capableof enduring hardship, or more good-humored under privations. Never arethey so happy as when on long and rough expeditions, toiling up riversor coasting lakes; encamping at night on the borders, gossiping roundtheir fires, and bivouacking in the open air. They are dextrous boatmen, vigorous and adroit with the oar and paddle, and will row frommorning until night without a murmur. The steersman often sings an oldtraditionary French song, with some regular burden in which they alljoin, keeping time with their oars; if at any time they flag in spiritsor relax in exertion, it is but necessary to strike up a song of thekind to put them all in fresh spirits and activity. The Canadian watersare vocal with these little French chansons, that have been echoed frommouth to mouth and transmitted from father to son, from the earliestdays of the colony; and it has a pleasing effect, in a still goldensummer evening, to see a batteau gliding across the bosom of a lake anddipping its oars to the cadence of these quaint old ditties, or sweepingalong in full chorus on a bright sunny morning, down the transparentcurrent of one of the Canada rivers. 

But we are talking of things that are fast fading away! The march ofmechanical invention is driving everything poetical before it. Thesteamboats, which are fast dispelling the wildness and romance of ourlakes and rivers, and aiding to subdue the world into commonplace, areproving as fatal to the race of the Canadian voyageurs as they have beento that of the boatmen of the Mississippi. Their glory is departed. Theyare no longer the lords of our internal seas, and the great navigatorsof the wilderness. Some of them may still occasionally be seen coastingthe lower lakes with their frail barks, and pitching their campsand lighting their fires upon the shores; but their range is fastcontracting to those remote waters and shallow and obstructed riversunvisited by the steamboat. In the course of years they will graduallydisappear; their songs will die away like the echoes they once awakened, and the Canadian voyageurs will become a forgotten race, or remembered, like their associates, the Indians, among the poetical images of pasttimes, and as themes for local and romantic associations. 

An instance of the buoyant temperament and the professional pride ofthese people was furnished in the gay and braggart style in which theyarrived at New York to join the enterprise. They were determined toregale and astonish the people of the "States" with the sight of aCanadian boat and a Canadian crew. They accordingly fitted up a largebut light bark canoe, such as is used in the fur trade; transportedit in a wagon from the banks of the St. Lawrence to the shores of LakeChamplain; traversed the lake in it, from end to end; hoisted it againin a wagon and wheeled it off to Lansingburgh, and there launched itupon the waters of the Hudson. Down this river they plied their coursemerrily on a fine summer's day, making its banks resound for the firsttime with their old French boat songs; passing by the villages withwhoop and halloo, so as to make the honest Dutch farmers mistake themfor a crew of savages. In this way they swept, in full song and withregular flourish of the paddle, round New York, in a still summerevening, to the wonder and admiration of its inhabitants, who had neverbefore witnessed on their waters, a nautical apparition of the kind. 

Such was the variegated band of adventurers about to embark in theTonquin on this ardous and doubtful enterprise. While yet in port andon dry land, in the bustle of preparation and the excitement of novelty, all was sunshine and promise. The Canadians, especially, who, with theirconstitutional vivacity, have a considerable dash of the gascon, werebuoyant and boastful, and great brag arts as to the future; while allthose who had been in the service of the Northwest Company, and engagedin the Indian trade, plumed themselves upon their hardihood and theircapacity to endure privations. If Mr. Astor ventured to hint at thedifficulties they might have to encounter, they treated them with scorn. They were "northwesters;" men seasoned to hardships, who cared forneither wind nor weather. They could live hard, lie hard, sleep hard, eat dogs!--in a word they were ready to do and suffer anything for thegood of the enterprise. With all this profession of zeal and devotion, Mr. Astor was not overconfident of the stability and firm faith of thesemercurial beings. He had received information, also, that an armed brigfrom Halifax, probably at the instigation of the Northwest Company, washovering on the coast, watching for the Tonquin, with the purpose ofimpressing the Canadians on board of her, as British subjects, and thusinterrupting the voyage. It was a time of doubt and anxiety, whenthe relations between the United States and Great Britain were dailyassuming a more precarious aspect and verging towards that war whichshortly ensued. As a precautionary measure, therefore, he requiredthat the voyageurs, as they were about to enter into the service ofan American association, and to reside within the limits of the UnitedStates, should take the oaths of naturalization as American citizens. To this they readily agreed, and shortly afterward assured him that theyhad actually done so. It was not until after they had sailed that hediscovered that they had entirely deceived him in the matter. 

The confidence of Mr. Astor was abused in another quarter. Two of thepartners, both of them Scotchmen, and recently in the service of theNorthwest Company, had misgivings as to an enterprise which might clashwith the interests and establishments protected by the British flag. They privately waited upon the British minister, Mr. Jackson, thenin New York, laid open to him the whole scheme of Mr. Astor, thoughintrusted to them in confidence, and dependent, in a great measure, uponsecrecy at the outset for its success, and inquired whether they, asBritish subjects, could lawfully engage in it. The reply satisfied theirscruples, while the information they imparted excited the surpriseand admiration of Mr. Jackson, that a private individual should haveconceived and set on foot at his own risk and expense so great anenterprise. 

This step on the part of those gentlemen was not known to Mr. Astoruntil some time afterwards, or it might have modified the trust andconfidence reposed in them. 

To guard against any interruption to the voyage by the armed brig, saidto be off the harbor, Mr. Astor applied to Commodore Rodgers, at thattime commanding at New York, to give the Tonquin safe convoy offthe coast. The commodore having received from a high official sourceassurance of the deep interest which the government took in theenterprise, sent directions to Captain Hull, at that time cruisingoff the harbor, in the frigate Constitution, to afford the Tonquin therequired protection when she should put to sea. 

Before the day of embarkation, Mr. Astor addressed a letter ofinstruction to the four partners who were to sail in the ship. In thishe enjoined them, in the most earnest manner, to cultivate harmony andunanimity, and recommended that all differences of opinions on pointsconnected with the objects and interests of the voyage should bediscussed by the whole, and decided by a majority of votes. He, moreover, gave them especial caution as to their conduct on arriving attheir destined port; exhorting them to be careful to make a favorableimpression upon the wild people among whom their lot and the fortunesof the enterprise would be cast. "If you find them kind, " said he, "asI hope you will, be so to them. If otherwise, act with caution andforebearance, and convince them that you come as friends. "

With the same anxious forethought he wrote a letter of instructions toCaptain Thorn, in which he urged the strictest attention to the healthof himself and his crew, and to the promotion of good-humor and harmonyon board his ship. "To prevent any misunderstanding, " added he, "willrequire your particular good management. " His letter closed with aninjunction of wariness in his intercourse with the natives, a subject onwhich Mr. Astor was justly sensible he could not be too earnest. "I mustrecommend you, " said he, "to be particularly careful on the coast, andnot to rely too much on the friendly disposition of the natives. All accidents which have as yet happened there arose from too muchconfidence in the Indians. "

The reader will bear these instructions in mind, as events willprove their wisdom and importance, and the disasters which ensued inconsequence of the neglect of them. 

CHAPTER V. 

 Sailing of the Tonquin. --A Rigid Commander and a Reckless Crew. --Landsmen on Shipboard. --Fresh-Water Sailors at Sea. -- Lubber Nests. --Ship Fare. --A Labrador Veteran--Literary Clerks. -Curious Travellers. --Robinson Crusoe's Island. -- Quarter-Deck Quarrels. --Falkland Islands. --A Wild-Goose Chase. --Port Egmont. -Epitaph Hunting. --Old Mortality-- Penguin Shooting. --Sportsmen Left in the Lurch. --A Hard Pull. --Further Altercations. --Arrival at Owyhee. 

ON the eighth of September, 1810, the Tonquin put to sea, where she wassoon joined by the frigate Constitution. The wind was fresh and fairfrom the southwest, and the ship was soon out of sight of land and freefrom the apprehended danger of interruption. The frigate, therefore, gave her "God speed, " and left her to her course. 

The harmony so earnestly enjoined by Mr. Astor on this heterogeneouscrew, and which had been so confidently promised in the buoyant momentsof preparation, was doomed to meet with a check at the very outset. 

Captain Thorn was an honest, straighforward, but somewhat dry anddictatorial commander, who, having been nurtured in the system anddiscipline of a ship of war, and in a sacred opinion of the supremacy ofthe quarter-deck, was disposed to be absolute lord and master on boardof his ship. He appears, moreover, to have had no great opinion, fromthe first, of the persons embarked with him--He had stood by with surlycontempt while they vaunted so bravely to Mr. Astor of all they coulddo and all they could undergo; how they could face all weathers, put upwith all kinds of fare, and even eat dogs with a relish, when no betterfood was to be had. He had set them down as a set of landlubbers andbraggadocios, and was disposed to treat them accordingly. Mr. Astor was, in his eyes, his only real employer, being the father of the enterprise, who furnished all funds and bore all losses. The others were mere agentsand subordinates, who lived at his expense. He evidently had but anarrow idea of the scope and nature of the enterprise, limiting hisviews merely to his part of it; everything beyond the concerns ofhis ship was out of his sphere; and anything that interfered with theroutine of his nautical duties put him in a passion. 

The partners, on the other hand, had been brought up in the serviceof the Northwest Company, and in a profound idea of the importance, dignity, and authority of a partner. They already began to considerthemselves on a par with the M'Tavishes, the M'Gillivrays, theFrobishers, and the other magnates of the Northwest, whom they had beenaccustomed to look up to as the great ones of the earth; and they werea little disposed, perhaps, to wear their suddenly-acquired honors withsome air of pretension. Mr. Astor, too, had put them on their mettlewith respect to the captain, describing him as a gunpowder fellow whowould command his ship in fine style, and, if there was any fighting todo, would "blow all out of the water. "

Thus prepared to regard each other with no very cordial eye, it is notto be wondered at that the parties soon came into collision. On the veryfirst night Captain Thorn began his man-of-war discipline by orderingthe lights in the cabin to be extinguished at eight o'clock. 

The pride of the partners was immediately in arms. This was an invasionof their rights and dignities not to be borne. They were on boardof their own ship, and entitled to consult their ease and enjoyment. M'Dougal was the champion of their cause. He was an active, irritable, fuming, vainglorious little man, and elevated in his own opinion, bybeing the proxy of Mr. Astor. A violent altercation ensued, in thecourse of which Thorn threatened to put the partners in irons shouldthey prove refractory; upon which M'Dougal seized a pistol and swore tobe the death of the captain should he ever offer such an indignity. Itwas some time before the irritated parties could be pacified by the moretemperate bystanders. 

Such was the captain's outset with the partners. Nor did the clerksstand much higher in his good graces; indeed, he seems to have regardedall the landsmen on board his ship as a kind of live lumber, continuallyin the way. The poor voyageurs, too, continually irritated his spleen bytheir "lubberly" and unseemly habits, so abhorrent to one accustomedto the cleanliness of a man-of-war. These poor fresh-water sailors, sovainglorious on shore, and almost amphibious when on lakes and rivers, lost all heart and stomach the moment they were at sea. For days theysuffered the doleful rigors and retchings of sea-sickness, lurking belowin their berths in squalid state, or emerging now and then like spectresfrom the hatchways, in capotes and blankets, with dirty nightcaps, grizzly beard, lantern visage and unhappy eye, shivering about the deck, and ever and anon crawling to the sides of the vessel, and offering uptheir tributes to the windward, to infinite annoyance of the captain. 

His letters to Mr. Astor, wherein he pours forth the bitterness of hissoul, and his seamanlike impatience of what he considers the "lubberly"character and conduct of those around him, are before us, and areamusingly characteristic. The honest captain is full of vexation on hisown account, and solicitude on account of Mr. Astor, whose property heconsiders at the mercy of a most heterogeneous and wasteful crew. 

As to the clerks, he pronounced them mere pretenders, not one of whomhad ever been among the Indians, nor farther to the northwest thanMontreal, nor of higher rank than barkeeper of a tavern or marker of abilliard-table, excepting one, who had been a school-master, and whom heemphatically sets down for "as foolish a pedant as ever lived. "

Then as to the artisans and laborers who had been brought from Canadaand shipped at such expense, the three most respectable, accordingto the captain's account, were culprits, who had fled from Canada onaccount of their misdeeds; the rest had figured in Montreal as draymen, barbers, waiters, and carriole drivers, and were the most helpless, worthless beings "that ever broke sea-biscuit. "

It may easily be imagined what a series of misunderstandings andcross-purposes would be likely to take place between such a crewand such a commander. The captain, in his zeal for the health andcleanliness of his ship, would make sweeping visitations to the "lubbernests" of the unlucky "voyageurs" and their companions in misery, ferretthem out of their berths, make them air and wash themselves and theiraccoutrements, and oblige them to stir about briskly and take exercise. 

Nor did his disgust and vexation cease when all hands had recovered fromsea-sickness, and become accustomed to the ship, for now broke out analarming keenness of appetite that threatened havoc to the provisions. What especially irritated the captain was the daintiness of some of hiscabin passengers. They were loud in their complaints of the ship's fare, though their table was served with fresh pork, hams, tongues, smokedbeef, and puddings. "When thwarted in their cravings for delicacies, "Said he, "they would exclaim it was d-d hard they could not live asthey pleased upon their own property, being on board of their own ship, freighted with their own merchandise. And these, " added he, "are thefine fellows who made such boast that they could 'eat dogs. '"

In his indignation at what he termed their effeminacy, he would swearthat he would never take them to sea again "without having Fly-market onthe forecastle, Covent-garden on the poop, and a cool spring from Canadain the maintop. "

As they proceeded on their voyage and got into the smooth seas andpleasant weather of the tropics, other annoyances occurred to vex thespirit of the captain. He had been crossed by the irritable mood of oneof the partners; he was now excessively annoyed by the good-humor ofanother. This was the elder Stuart, who was an easy soul, and of asocial disposition. He had seen life in Canada, and on the coast ofLabrador; had been a fur trader in the former, and a fisherman onthe latter; and, in the course of his experience, had made variousexpeditions with voyageurs. He was accustomed, therefore, to thefamiliarity which prevails between that class and their superiors, andthe gossipings which take place among them when seated round a fireat their encampments. Stuart was never so happy as when he could seathimself on the deck with a number of these men round him, in campingstyle, smoke together, passing the pipe from mouth to mouth, after themanner of the Indians, sing old Canadian boat-songs, and tell storiesabout their hardships and adventures, in the course of which he rivaledSinbad in his long tales of the sea, about his fishing exploits on thecoast of Labrador. 

This gossiping familiarity shocked the captain's notions of rank andsubordination, and nothing was so abhorrent to him as the communityof pipe between master and man, and their mingling in chorus in theoutlandish boat-songs. 

Then there was another whimsical source of annoyance to him. Some of theyoung clerks, who were making their first voyage, and to whom everythingwas new and strange, were, very rationally, in the habit of taking notesand keeping journals. This was a sore abomination to the honest captain, who held their literary pretensions in great contempt. "The collectingof materials for long histories of their voyages and travels, " saidhe, in his letter to Mr. Astor, "appears to engross most of theirattention. " We can conceive what must have been the crusty impatience ofthe worthy navigator, when, on any trifling occurrence in the course ofthe voyage, quite commonplace in his eyes, he saw these young landsmenrunning to record it in their journals; and what indignant glances hemust have cast to right and left, as he worried about the deck, givingout his orders for the management of the ship, surrounded by singing, smoking, gossiping, scribbling groups, all, as he thought, intent uponthe amusement of the passing hour, instead of the great purposes andinterests of the voyage. 

It is possible the captain was in some degree right in his notions. Though some of the passengers had much to gain by the voyage, none ofthem had anything positively to lose. They were mostly young men, in theheyday of life; and having got into fine latitudes, upon smooth seas, with a well-stored ship under them, and a fair wind in the shoulderof the sail, they seemed to have got into a holiday world, and weredisposed to enjoy it. That craving desire, natural to untravelled men offresh and lively minds, to see strange lands, and to visit scenes famousin history or fable, was expressed by some of the partners and clerks, with respect to some of the storied coasts and islands that lay withintheir route. The captain, however, who regarded every coast and islandwith a matter-of-fact eye, and had no more associations connectedwith them than those laid down in his sea-chart, considered all thiscuriosity as exceedingly idle and childish. "In the first part of thevoyage, " says he in his letter, "they were determined to have it saidthey had been in Africa, and therefore insisted on stopping at theCape de Verdes. Next they said the ship should stop on the coast ofPatagonia, for they must see the large and uncommon inhabitants of thatplace. Then they must go to the island where Robinson Crusoe had so longlived. And lastly, they were determined to see the handsome inhabitantsof Easter Island. "

To all these resolves, the captain opposed his peremptory veto, as"contrary to instructions. " Then would break forth an unavailingexplosion of wrath on the part of certain of the partners, in the courseof which they did not even spare Mr. Astor for his act of supererogationin furnishing orders for the control of the ship while they were onboard, instead of leaving them to be the judges where it would be bestfor her to touch, and how long to remain. The choleric M'Dougal took thelead in these railings, being, as has been observed, a little puffed upwith the idea of being Mr. Astor's proxy. 

The captain, however, became only so much the more crusty and dogged inhis adherence to his orders, and touchy and harsh in his dealings withthe passengers, and frequent altercations ensued. He may in some measurehave been influenced by his seamanlike impatience of the interferenceof landsmen, and his high notions of naval etiquette and quarter-deckauthority; but he evidently had an honest, trusty concern for theinterests of his employer. He pictured to himself the anxious projectorof the enterprise, who had disbursed so munificently in its outfit, calculating on the zeal, fidelity, and singleness of purpose of hisassociates and agents; while they, on the other hand, having a good shipat their disposal and a deep pocket at home to bear them out, seemedready to loiter on every coast, and amuse themselves in every port. 

On the fourth of December they came in sight of the Falkland Islands. Having been for some time on an allowance of water, it was resolved toanchor here and obtain a supply. A boat was sent into a small bay totake soundings. Mr. M'Dougal and Mr. M'Kay took this occasion to go onshore, but with a request from the captain that they would not detainthe ship. Once on shore, however, they were in no haste to obey hisorders, but rambled about in search of curiosities. The anchorageproving unsafe, and water difficult to be procured, the captain stoodout to sea, and made repeated signals for those on shore to rejoin theship, but it was not until nine at night that they came on board. 

The wind being adverse, the boat was again sent on shore on thefollowing morning, and the same gentlemen again landed, but promised tocome off at a moment's warning; they again forgot their promise in theireager pursuit of wild geese and seawolves. After a time the wind hauledfair, and signals were made for the boat. Half an hour elapsed but noboat put off. The captain reconnoitered the shore with his glass, and, to his infinite vexation, saw the loiterers in the full enjoyment oftheir "wildgoose-chase. " Nettled to the quick, he immediately made sail. When those on shore saw the ship actually under way, they embarked withall speed, but had a hard pull of eight miles before they got on board, and then experienced but a grim reception, notwithstanding that theycame well laden with the spoils of the chase. 

Two days afterwards, on the seventh of December, they anchored at FortEgmont, in the same island, where they remained four days taking inwater and making repairs. This was a joyous time for the landsmen. Theypitched a tent on shore, had a boat at their command, and passed theirtime merrily in rambling about the island, and coasting along theshores, shooting sealions, seals, foxes, geese, ducks, and penguins. None were keener in pursuit of this kind of game than M'Dougal andDavid Stuart; the latter was reminded of aquatic sports on the coast ofLabrador, and his hunting exploits in the Northwest. 

In the meantime the captain addressed himself steadily to the businessof his ship, scorning the holiday spirit and useless pursuits of hisemancipated messmates, and warning them, from time to time, not towander away nor be out of hail. They promised, as usual, that the shipshould never experience a moment's detention on their account, but, asusual, forgot their promise. 

On the morning of the 11th, the repairs being all finished, and thewater casks replenished, the signal was given to embark, and the shipbegan to weigh anchor. At this time several of the passengers weredispersed about the island, amusing themselves in various ways. Some ofthe young men had found two inscriptions, in English, over a place wheretwo unfortunate mariners had been buried in this desert island. As theinscriptions were worn out by the time and weather, they were playingthe part of "Old Mortality, " and piously renewing them. The signal fromthe ship summoned them from their labors; they saw the sails unfurled, and that she was getting under way. The two sporting partners, however, Mr. M'Dougal and David Stuart, had strolled away to the south of theisland in pursuit of penguins. It would never do to put off withoutthem, as there was but one boat to convey the whole. 

While this delay took place on shore, the captain was storming on board. This was the third time his orders had been treated with contempt, andthe ship wantonly detained, and it should be the last; so he spread allsail and put to sea, swearing he would leave the laggards to shift forthemselves. It was in vain that those on board made remonstrances andentreaties, and represented the horrors of abandoning men upon a sterileand uninhabited island; the sturdy captain was inflexible. 

In the meantime the penguin hunters had joined the engravers oftombstones, but not before the ship was already out at sea. They all, tothe number of eight, threw themselves into their boat, which was abouttwenty feet in length, and rowed with might and main. For three hoursand a half did they tug anxiously and severely at the oar, swashedoccasionally by the surging waves of the open sea, while the shipinexorably kept on her course, and seemed determined to leave thembehind. 

On board the ship was the nephew of David Stuart, a young man of spiritand resolution. Seeing, as he thought, the captain obstinately bentupon abandoning his uncle and the others, he seized a pistol, and in aparoxysm of wrath swore he would blow out the captain's brains, unlesshe put about or shortened sail. 

Fortunately for all parties, the wind just then came ahead, and the boatwas enabled to reach the ship; otherwise, disastrous circumstances mighthave ensued. We can hardly believe that the captain really intended tocarry his threat into full effect, and rather think he meant to let thelaggards off for a long pull and a hearty fright. He declared, however, in his letter to Mr. Astor, that he was serious in his threats, andthere is no knowing how far such an iron man may push his notions ofauthority. 

"Had the wind, " writes he, "(unfortunately) not hauled ahead soon afterleaving the harbor's mouth, I should positively have left them; and, indeed, I cannot but think it an unfortunate circumstance for youthat it so happened, for the first loss in this instance would, in myopinion, have proved the best, as they seem to have no idea of thevalue of property, nor any apparent regard for your interest, althoughinterwoven with their own. "

This, it must be confessed, was acting with a high hand, and carryinga regard to the owner's property to a dangerous length. Various pettyfeuds occurred also between him and the partners in respect to the goodson board ship, some articles of which they wished to distributefor clothing among the men, or for other purposes which they deemedessential. The captain, however, kept a mastiff watch upon the cargo, and growled and snapped if they but offered to touch box or bale. "Itwas contrary to orders; it would forfeit his insurance; it was out ofall rule. " It was in vain they insisted upon their right to do so, aspart owners, and as acting for the good of the enterprise; the captainonly stuck to his point the more stanchly. They consoled themselves, therefore, by declaring, that as soon as they made land, they wouldassert their rights, and do with ship and cargo as they pleased. 

Beside these feuds between the captain and the partners, there werefeuds between the partners themselves, occasioned, in some measure, byjealousy of rank. M'Dougal and M'Kay began to draw plans for the fort, and other buildings of the intended establishment. They agreed very wellas to the outline and dimensions, which were on a sufficiently grandscale; but when they came to arrange the details, fierce disputes arose, and they would quarrel by the hour about the distribution of the doorsand windows. Many were the hard words and hard names bandied betweenthem on these occasions, according to the captain's account. Eachaccused the other of endeavoring to assume unwarrantable power, and takethe lead; upon which Mr. M'Dougal would vauntingly lay down Mr. Astor'sletter, constituting him his representative and proxy, a document not tobe disputed. 

These wordy contests, though violent, were brief; "and within fifteenminutes, " says the captain, "they would be caressing each other likechildren. "

While all this petty anarchy was agitating the little world within theTonquin, the good ship prosperously pursued her course, doubled CapeHorn on the 25th of December, careered across the bosom of the Pacific, until, on the 11th of February, the snowy peaks of Owyhee were seenbrightening above the horizon. 

CHAPTER VI. 

 Owyhee. --Sandwich Islanders--Their Nautical Talents. -- Tamaahmaah. --His Navy. --His Negotiations. --Views of Mr. Astor With Respect to the Sandwich Islands--Karakakooa. -- Royal Monopoly of Pork. -Description of the Islanders-- Gayeties on Shore. --Chronicler of the Island. --Place Where Captain Cook was Killed. --John Young, a Nautical Governor. --His Story. --Waititi--A Royal Residence. --A Royal Visit--Grand Ceremonials. --Close Dealing--A Royal Pork Merchant--Grievances of a Matter-of-Fact Man. 

OWYHEE, or Hawaii, as it is written by more exact orthographers, is thelargest of the cluster, ten in number, of the Sandwich Islands. It isabout ninety-seven miles in length, and seventy-eight in breadth, risinggradually into three pyramidal summits or cones; the highest, MounaRoa, being eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, so as todomineer over the whole archipelago, and to be a landmark over a wideextent of ocean. It remains a lasting monument of the enterprisingand unfortunate Captain Cook, who was murdered by the natives of thisisland. 

The Sandwich Islanders, when first discovered, evinced a charactersuperior to most of the savages of the Pacific isles. They were frankand open in their deportment, friendly and liberal in their dealings, with an apt ingenuity apparent in all their rude inventions. 

The tragical fate of the discoverer, which, for a time, brought themunder the charge of ferocity, was, in fact, the result of suddenexasperation, caused by the seizure of their chief. 

At the time of the visit of the Tonquin, the islanders had profited, inmany respects, by occasional intercourse with white men; and had shown aquickness to observe and cultivate those arts important to their modeof living. Originally they had no means of navigating the seas by whichthey were surrounded, superior to light pirogues, which were littlecompetent to contend with the storms of the broad ocean. As theislanders are not in sight of each other, there could, therefore, be butcasual intercourse between them. The traffic with white men had putthem in possession of vessels of superior description; they had madethemselves acquainted with their management, and had even made rudeadvances in the art of ship-building. 

These improvements had been promoted, in a great measure, by the energyand sagacity of one man, the famous Tamaahmaah. He had originally beena petty eri, or chief; but, being of an intrepid and aspiring nature, hehad risen in rank, and, availing himself of the superior advantages nowafforded in navigation, had brought the whole archipelago in subjectionto his arms. At the time of the arrival of the Tonquin he had aboutforty schooners, of from twenty to thirty tons burden, and one oldAmerican ship. With these he held undisputed sway over his insulardomains, and carried on intercourse with the chiefs or governors whom hehad placed in command of the several islands. 

The situation of this group of islands, far in the bosom of thevast Pacific, and their abundant fertility, render them importantstopping-places on the highway to China, or to the northwest coastof America. Here the vessels engaged in the fur trade touched to makerepairs and procure provisions; and here they often sheltered themselvesduring the winters that occurred in their long coasting expeditions. 

The British navigators were, from the first, aware of the value of theseislands to the purposes of commerce; and Tamaahmaah, not long afterhe had attained the sovereign sway, was persuaded by Vancouver, thecelebrated discoverer, to acknowledge, on behalf of himself, andsubjects, allegiance to the king of Great Britain. The reader cannot butcall to mind the visit which the royal family and court of the SandwichIslands was, in late years, induced to make to the court of St. James;and the serio-comic ceremonials and mock parade which attended thatsingular travesty of monarchal style. 

It was a part of the wide and comprehensive plan of Mr. Astor toestablish a friendly intercourse between these islands and his intendedcolony, which might, for a time, have occasion to draw supplies thence;and he even had a vague idea of, some time or other, getting possessionof one of their islands as a rendezvous for his ships, and a link in thechain of his commercial establishments. 

On the evening of the 12th of February, the Tonquin anchored in the bayof Karakakooa, in the island of Owyhee. The surrounding shores were wildand broken, with overhanging cliffs and precipices of black volcanicrock. Beyond these, however, the country was fertile and wellcultivated, with inclosures of yams, plantains, sweet potatoes, sugar-canes, and other productions of warm climates and teeming soils;and the numerous habitations of the natives were pleasantly shelteredbeneath clumps of cocoanut and bread-fruit trees, which afforded bothfood and shade. This mingled variety of garden and grove swept graduallyup the sides of the mountains, until succeeded by dense forests, whichin turn gave place to naked and craggy rocks, until the summits roseinto the regions of perpetual snow. 

The royal residence of Tamaahmaah was at this time at another islandnamed Woahoo. The island of Owyhee was under the command of one of hiseris, or chiefs, who resided at the village of Tocaigh, situated on adifferent part of the coast from the bay of Karakakooa. 

On the morning after her arrival, the ship was surrounded by canoes andpirogues, filled with the islanders of both sexes, bringing off suppliesof fruits and vegetables, bananas, plantains, watermelons, yams, cabbages and taro. The captain was desirous, however, of purchasing anumber of hogs, but there were none to be had--The trade in pork was aroyal monopoly, and no subject of the great Tamaahmaah dared to meddlewith it. Such provisions as they could furnish, however, were broughtby the natives in abundance, and a lively intercourse was kept up duringthe day, in which the women mingled in the kindest manner. 

The islanders are a comely race, of a copper complexion. The men aretall and well made, with forms indicating strength and activity; thewomen with regular and occasionally handsome features, and a lasciviousexpression, characteristic of their temperament. Their style of dresswas nearly the same as in the days of Captain Cook. The men wore themaro, a band one foot in width and several feet in length, swathed roundthe loins, and formed of tappa, or cloth of bark; the kihei, or mantle, about six feet square, tied in a knot over one shoulder, passed underthe opposite arm, so as to leave it bare, and falling in graceful foldsbefore and behind, to the knee, so as to bear some resemblance to aRoman toga. 

The female dress consisted of the pau, a garment formed of a pieceof tappa, several yards in length and one in width, wrapped round thewaist, and reaching like a petticoat, to the knees. Over this kihei, ormantle, larger than that of the men, sometimes worn over both shoulders, like a shawl, sometimes over one only. These mantles were seldom wornby either sex during the heat of the day, when the exposure of theirpersons was at first very revolting to a civilized eye. 

Towards evening several of the partners and clerks went on shore, where they were well received and hospitably entertained. A dance wasperformed for their amusement, in which nineteen young women and one manfigured very gracefully, singing in concert, and moving to the cadenceof their song. 

All this, however, was nothing to the purpose in the eyes of CaptainThorn, who, being disappointed in his hope of obtaining a supply ofpork, or finding good water, was anxious to be off. This it was not soeasy to effect. The passengers, once on shore, were disposed, as usual, to profit by the occasion. The partners had many inquiries to makerelative to the island, with a view to business; while the young clerkswere delighted with the charms and graces of the dancing damsels. 

To add to their gratifications, an old man offered to conduct them tothe spot where Captain Cook was massacred. The proposition was eagerlyaccepted, and all hands set out on a pilgrimage to the place. Theveteran islander performed his promise faithfully, and pointed outthe very spot where the unfortunate discoverer fell. The rocks andcocoa-trees around bore record of the fact, in the marks of the ballsfired from the boats upon the savages. The pilgrims gathered roundthe old man, and drew from him all the particulars he had to relaterespecting this memorable event; while the honest captain stood by andbit his nails with impatience. To add to his vexation, they employedthemselves in knocking off pieces of the rocks, and cutting off the barkof the trees marked by the balls, which they conveyed back to the shipas precious relics. 

Right glad, therefore, was he to get them and their treasures fairly onboard, when he made sail from this unprofitable place, and steeredfor the Bay of Tocaigh, the residence of the chief or governor of theisland, where he hoped to be more successful in obtaining supplies. Oncoming to anchor the captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. M'Dougaland Mr. M'Kay, and paid a visit to the governor. This dignitary provedto be an old sailor, by the name of John Young; who, after being tossedabout the seas like another Sinbad, had, by one of the whimsical freaksof fortune, been elevated to the government of a savage island. Hereceived his visitors with more hearty familiarity than personages inhis high station are apt to indulge, but soon gave them to understandthat provisions were scanty at Tocaigh, and that there was no goodwater, no rain having fallen in the neighborhood in three years. 

The captain was immediately for breaking up the conference anddeparting, but the partners were not so willing to part with thenautical governor, who seemed disposed to be extremely communicative, and from whom they might be able to procure some useful information. Along conversation accordingly ensued, in the course of which theymade many inquiries about the affairs of the islands, their naturalproductions, and the possibility of turning them to advantage in the wayof trade; nor did they fail to inquire into the individual history ofJohn Young, and how he came to be governor. This he gave with greatcondescension, running through the whole course of his fortunes "evenfrom his boyish days. "

He was a native of Liverpool, in England, and had followed the sea fromboyhood, until, by dint of good conduct, he had risen so far in hisprofession as to be boatswain of an American ship called the Eleanor, commanded by Captain Metcalf. In this vessel he had sailed in 1789, on one of those casual expeditions to the northwest coast, in quest offurs. In the course of the voyage, the captain left a small schooner, named the Fair American, at Nootka, with a crew of five men, commandedby his son, a youth of eighteen. She was to follow on in the track ofthe Eleanor. 

In February, 1790, Captain Metcalf touched at the island of Mowee, oneof the Sandwich group. While anchored here, a boat which was asternof the Eleanor was stolen, and a seaman who was in it was killed. Thenatives, generally, disclaimed the outrage, and brought the shatteredremains of the boat and the dead body of the seaman to the ship. Supposing that they had thus appeased the anger of the captain, theythronged, as usual, in great numbers about the vessel, to trade. CaptainMetcalf, however, determined on a bloody revenge. The Eleanor mountedten guns. All these he ordered to be loaded with musket-balls, nails, and pieces of old iron, and then fired them, and the small arms of theship, among the natives. The havoc was dreadful; more than a hundred, according to Young's account, were slain. 

After this signal act of vengeance, Captain Metcalf sailed from Mowee, and made for the island of Owyhee, where he was well received byTamaahmaah. The fortunes of this warlike chief were at that time on therise. He had originally been of inferior rank, ruling over only one ortwo districts of Owyhee, but had gradually made himself sovereign of hisnative island. 

The Eleanor remained some few days at anchor here, and an apparentlyfriendly intercourse was kept up with the inhabitants. On the 17thMarch, John Young obtained permission to pass the night on shore. On thefollowing morning a signal-gun summoned him to return on board. 

He went to the shore to embark, but found all the canoes hauled up onthe beach and rigorously tabooed, or interdicted. He would have launchedone himself, but was informed by Tamaahmaah that if he presumed to do sohe would be put to death. 

Young was obliged to submit, and remained all day in great perplexity toaccount for this mysterious taboo, and fearful that some hostility wasintended. In the evening he learned the cause of it, and his uneasinesswas increased. It appeared that the vindictive act of Captain Metcalfhad recoiled upon his own head. The schooner Fair American, commandedby his son, following in his track, had fallen into the hands of thenatives to the southward of Tocaigh Bay, and young Metcalf and four ofthe crew had been massacred. 

On receiving intelligence of this event, Tamaahmaah had immediatelytabooed all the canoes, and interdicted all intercourse with the ship, lest the captain should learn the fate of the schooner, and take hisrevenge upon the island. For the same reason he prevented Young fromrejoining his countrymen. The Eleanor continued to fire signals fromtime to time for two days, and then sailed; concluding, no doubt, thatthe boatswain had deserted. 

John Young was in despair when he saw the ship make sail; and foundhimself abandoned among savages;-and savages, too, sanguinary intheir character, and inflamed by acts of hostility. He was agreeablydisappointed, however, in experiencing nothing but kind treatment fromTamaahmaah and his people. It is true, he was narrowly watched whenevera vessel came in sight, lest he should escape and relate what hadpassed; but at other times he was treated with entire confidence andgreat distinction. He became a prime favorite, cabinet counsellor, andactive coadjutor of Tamaahmaah, attending him in all his excursions, whether of business or pleasure, and aiding in his warlike and ambitiousenterprises. By degrees he rose to the rank of a chief, espoused one ofthe beauties of the island, and became habituated and reconciled to hisnew way of life; thinking it better, perhaps, to rule among savagesthan serve among white men; to be a feathered chief than a tarpaulinboatswain. His favor with Tamahmaah, never declined; and when thatsagacious, intrepid, and aspiring chieftain had made himself sovereignover the whole group of islands, and removed his residence to Woahoo, heleft his faithful adherent John Young in command of Owyhee. 

Such is an outline of the history of Governor Young, as furnished byhimself; and we regret that we are not able to give any account of thestate maintained by this seafaring worthy, and the manner in which hedischarged his high functions; though it is evident he had more ofthe hearty familiarity of the forecastle than the dignity of thegubernatorial office. 

These long conferences were bitter trials to the patience of thecaptain, who had no respect either for the governor or his island, andwas anxious to push on in quest of provisions and water. As soon ashe could get his inquisitive partners once more on board, he weighedanchor, and made sail for the island of Woahoo, the royal residence ofTamaahmaah. 

This is the most beautiful island of the Sandwich group. It is forty-sixmiles in length and twenty-three in breadth. A ridge of volcanicmountains extends through the centre, rising into lofty peaks, andskirted by undulating hills and rich plains, where the cabins of thenatives peep out from beneath groves of cocoanut and other luxurianttrees. 

On the 21st of February the Tonquin cast anchor in the beautiful baybefore the village of Waititi, (pronounced Whyteetee. ) the abode ofTamaahmaah. This village contained about two hundred habitations, composed of poles set in the ground, tied together at the ends, andthatched with grass, and was situated in an open grove of cocoanuts. Theroyal palace of Tamaahmaah was a large house of two stories; the lowerof stone, the upper of wood. Round this his body-guard kept watch, composed of twenty-four men in long blue cassocks, turned up withyellow, and each armed with a musket. 

While at anchor at this place, much ceremonious visiting and longconferences took place between the potentate of the islands and thepartners of the company. Tamaahmaah came on board of the ship in royalstyle, in his double pirogue. He was between fifty and sixty yearsof age, above the middle size, large and well made, though somewhatcorpulent. He was dressed in an old suit of regimentals, with a swordby his side, and seemed somewhat embarrassed by his magnificent attire. Three of his wives accompanied him. They were almost as tall, and quiteas corpulent as himself; but by no means to be compared with him ingrandeur of habiliments, wearing no other garb than the pan. With him, also, came his great favorite and confidential counseller, Kraimaker;who, from holding a post equivalent to that of prime minister, had beenfamiliarly named Billy Pitt by the British visitors to the islands. 

The sovereign was received with befitting ceremonial. The Americanflag was displayed, four guns were fired, and the partners appearedin scarlet coats, and conducted their illustrious guests to the cabin, where they were regaled with wine. In this interview the partnersendeavored to impress the monarch with a sense of their importance, andof the importance of the association to which they belonged. They lethim know that they were eris, or chiefs, of a great company about tobe established on the northwest coast, and talked of the probabilityof opening a trade with his islands, and of sending ships thereoccasionally. All this was gratifying and interesting to him, for hewas aware of the advantages of trade, and desirous of promoting frequentintercourse with white men. He encouraged Europeans and Americans tosettle in his islands and intermarry with his subjects. There werebetween twenty and thirty white men at that time resident in the island, but many of them were mere vagabonds, who remained there in hopesof leading a lazy and an easy life. For such Tamaahmaah had a greatcontempt; those only had his esteem and countenance who knew some tradeor mechanic art, and were sober and industrious. 

On the day subsequent to the monarch's visit, the partners landed andwaited upon him in return. Knowing the effect of show and dress upon menin savage life, and wishing to make a favorable impression as the eris, or chiefs, of the great American Fur Company, some of them appeared inHighland plaids and kilts to the great admiration of the natives. 

While visits of ceremony and grand diplomatic conferences were goingon between the partners and the king, the captain, in his plain, matter-of-fact way, was pushing what he considered a far more importantnegotiation; the purchase of a supply of hogs. He found that the kinghad profited in more ways than one by his intercourse with white men. Above all other arts he had learned the art of driving a bargain. He wasa magnanimous monarch, but a shrewd pork merchant; and perhaps thoughthe could not do better with his future allies, the American Fur Company, than to begin by close dealing. Several interviews were requisite, andmuch bargaining, before he could be brought to part with a bristle ofhis bacon, and then he insisted upon being paid in hard Spanish dollars;giving as a reason that he wanted money to purchase a frigate from hisbrother George, as he affectionately termed the king of England. *

At length the royal bargain was concluded; the necessary supply of hogsobtained, besides several goats, two sheep, a quantity of poultry, andvegetables in abundance. The partners now urged to recruit their forcesfrom the natives of this island. They declared they had never seenwatermen equal to them, even among the voyageurs of the Northwest; and, indeed, they are remarkable for their skill in managing their lightcraft, and can swim and dive like waterfowl. The partners were inclined, therefore, to take thirty or forty with them to the Columbia, to beemployed in the service of the company. The captain, however, objectedthat there was not room in his vessel for the accommodation of such anumber. Twelve, only, were therefore enlisted for the company, and asmany more for the service of the ship. The former engaged to serve forthe term of three years, during which they were to be fed and clothed;and at the expiration of the time were to receive one hundred dollars inmerchandise. 

And now, having embarked his live-stock, fruits, vegetables, and water, the captain made ready to set sail. How much the honest man hadsuffered in spirit by what he considered the freaks and vagaries ofhis passengers, and how little he had understood their humors andintentions, is amusingly shown in a letter written to Mr. Astor fromWoahoo, which contains his comments on the scenes we have described. 

"It would be difficult, " he writes, "to imagine the frantic gambolsthat are daily played off here; sometimes dressing in red coats, andotherwise very fantastically, and collecting a number of ignorantnatives around them, telling them that they are the great eris of theNorthwest, and making arrangements for sending three or four vesselsyearly to them from the coast with spars, &c. ; while those very nativescannot even furnish a hog to the ship. Then dressing in Highland plaidsand kilts, and making similar arrangements, with presents of rum, wine, or anything that is at hand. Then taking a number of clerks and menon shore to the very spot on which Captain Cook was killed, and eachfetching off a piece of the rock or tree that was touched by the shot. Then sitting down with some white man or some native who can be a littleunderstood, and collecting the history of those islands, of Tamaahmaah'swars, the curiosities of the islands, &c. , preparatory to thehistories of their voyages; and the collection is indeed ridiculouslycontemptible. To enumerate the thousand instances of ignorance, filth, &c. , --or to particularize all the frantic gambols that are dailypracticed, would require Volumes. "

Before embarking, the great eris of the American Fur Company took leaveof their illustrious ally in due style, with many professions of lastingfriendship and promises of future intercourse; while the matter-of-factcaptain anathematized him in his heart for a grasping, traffickingsavage; as shrewd and sordid in his dealings as a white man. As one ofthe vessels of the company will, in the course of events, have to appealto the justice and magnanimity of this island potentate, we shall seehow far the honest captain was right in his opinion. 

 * It appears, from the accounts of subsequent voyagers, that Tamaahmaah afterwards succeeded in his wish of purchasing a large ship. In this he sent a cargo of sandal-wood to Canton, having discovered that the foreign merchants trading with him made large profits on this wood, shipped by them from the islands to the Chinese markets. The ship was manned by natives, but the officers were Englishmen. She accomplished her voyage, and returned in safety to the islands, with the Hawaiian flag floating gloriously in the breeze. The king hastened on board, expecting to find his sandal-wood converted into crapes and damasks, and other rich stuffs of China, but found, to his astonishment, by the legerdemain of traffic, his cargo had all disappeared, and, in place of it, remained a bill of charges amounting to three thousand dollars. It was some time before he could be made to comprehend certain of the most important items of the bill, such as pilotage, anchorage, and custom-house fees; but when he discovered that maritime states in other countries derived large revenues in this manner, to the great cost of the merchant, "Well, " cried he, "then I will have harbor fees also. " He established them accordingly. Pilotage a dollar a foot on the draft of each vessel. Anchorage from sixty to seventy dollars. In this way he greatly increased the royal revenue, and turned his China speculation to account. 

CHAPTER VII. 

 Departure From the Sandwich Islands. --Misunderstandings-- Miseries of a Suspicious Man. --Arrival at the Columbia-- Dangerous Service. --Gloomy Apprehensions--Bars and Breakers. --Perils of the Ship. Disasters of a Boat's Crew. -- Burial of a Sandwich Islander. 

IT was on the 28th of February that the Tonquin set sail from theSandwich Islands. For two days the wind was contrary, and the vessel wasdetained in their neighborhood; at length a favorable breeze sprang up, and in a little while the rich groves, green hills, and snowy peaks ofthose happy islands one after another sank from sight, or melted intothe blue distance, and the Tonquin ploughed her course towards thesterner regions of the Pacific. 

The misunderstandings between the captain and his passengers stillcontinued; or rather, increased in gravity. By his altercations and hismoody humors, he had cut himself off from all community of thought, orfreedom of conversation with them. He disdained to ask questions asto their proceedings, and could only guess at the meaning of theirmovements, and in so doing indulged in conjectures and suspicions, whichproduced the most whimsical self-torment. 

Thus, in one of his disputes with them, relative to the goods on board, some of the packages of which they wished to open, to take out articlesof clothing for the men or presents for the natives, he was so harsh andperemptory that they lost all patience, and hinted that they were thestrongest party, and might reduce him to a very ridiculous dilemma, bytaking from him the command. 

A thought now flashed across the captain's mind that they really hada plan to depose him, and that, having picked up some information atOwyhee, possibly of war between the United States and England, theymeant to alter the destination of the voyage; perhaps to seize upon shipand cargo for their own use. 

Once having conceived this suspicion, everything went to foster it. Theyhad distributed fire-arms among some of their men, a common precautionamong the fur traders when mingling with the natives. This, however, looked like preparation. Then several of the partners and clerks andsome of the men, being Scotsmen, were acquainted with the Gaelic, andheld long conversations together in that language. These conversationswere considered by the captain of a "mysterious and unwarranted nature, "and related, no doubt, to some foul conspiracy that was brewing amongthem. He frankly avows such suspicions, in his letter to Mr. Astor, butintimates that he stood ready to resist any treasonous outbreak; andseems to think that the evidence of preparation on his part had aneffect in overawing the conspirators. 

The fact is, as we have since been informed by one of the parties, itwas a mischievous pleasure with some of the partners and clerks, whowere young men, to play upon the suspicious temper and splenetic humorsof the captain. To this we may ascribe many of their whimsical pranksand absurd propositions, and, above all, their mysterious colloquies inGaelic. 

In this sore and irritable mood did the captain pursue his course, keeping a wary eye on every movement, and bristling up whenever thedetested sound of the Gaelic language grated upon his ear. Nothingoccurred, however, materially to disturb the residue of the voyageexcepting a violent storm; and on the twenty-second of March, theTonquin arrived at the mouth of the Oregon, or Columbia River. 

The aspect of the river and the adjacent coast was wild and dangerous. The mouth of the Columbia is upwards of four miles wide with a peninsulaand promontory on one side, and a long low spit of land on the other;between which a sand bar and chain of breakers almost block theentrance. The interior of the country rises into successive rangesof mountains, which, at the time of the arrival of the Tonquin, werecovered with snow. 

A fresh wind from the northwest sent a rough tumbling sea upon thecoast, which broke upon the bar in furious surges, and extended a sheetof foam almost across the mouth of the river. Under these circumstancesthe captain did not think it prudent to approach within three leagues, until the bar should be sounded and the channel ascertained. Mr. Fox, the chief mate, was ordered to this service in the whaleboat, accompanied by John Martin, an old seaman, who had formerly visited theriver, and by three Canadians. Fox requested to have regular sailors toman the boat, but the captain would not spare them from the service ofthe ship, and supposed the Canadians, being expert boatmen on lakesand rivers, were competent to the service, especially when directed andaided by Fox and Martin. Fox seems to have lost all firmness of spiriton the occasion, and to have regarded the service with a misgivingheart. He came to the partners for sympathy, knowing their differenceswith the captain, and the tears were in his eyes as he representedhis case. "I am sent off, " said he, "without seamen to man my boat, in boisterous weather, and on the most dangerous part of the northwestcoast. My uncle was lost a few years ago on this same bar, and I am nowgoing to lay my bones alongside of his. " The partners sympathized in hisapprehensions, and remonstrated with the captain. The latter, however, was not to be moved. He had been displeased with Mr. Fox in the earlierpart of the voyage, considering him indolent and inactive; and probablythought his present repugnance arose from a want of true nauticalspirit. The interference of the partners in the business of the ship, also, was not calculated to have a favorable effect on a sticklerfor authority like himself, especially in his actual state of feelingtowards them. 

At one o'clock, P. M. , therefore, Fox and his comrades set off inthe whaleboat, which is represented as small in size, and crazy incondition. All eyes were strained after the little bark as it pulled forshore, rising and sinking with the huge rolling waves, until it entered, a mere speck, among the foaming breakers, and was soon lost to view. Evening set in, night succeeded and passed away, and morning returned, but without the return of the boat. 

As the wind had moderated, the ship stood near to the land, so as tocommand a view of the river's mouth. Nothing was to be seen but a wildchaos of tumbling waves breaking upon the bar, and apparently forming afoaming barrier from shore to shore. Towards night the ship again stoodout to gain sea-room, and a gloom was visible in every countenance. Thecaptain himself shared in the general anxiety, and probably repentedof his peremptory orders. Another weary and watchful night succeeded, during which the wind subsided, and the weather became serene. 

On the following day, the ship having drifted near the land, anchoredin fourteen fathoms water, to the northward of the long peninsula orpromontory which forms the north side of the entrance, and is calledCape Disappointment. The pinnace was then manned, and two of thepartners, Mr. David Stuart and Mr. M'Kay, set off in the hope oflearning something of the fate of the whaleboat. The surf, however, broke with such violence along the shore that they could find no landingplace. Several of the natives appeared on the beach and made signs tothem to row round the cape, but they thought it most prudent to returnto the ship. 

The wind now springing up, the Tonquin got under way, and stood in toseek the channel; but was again deterred by the frightful aspect ofthe breakers, from venturing within a league. Here she hove to; andMr. Mumford, the second mate, was despatched with four hands, in thepinnace, to sound across the channel until he should find four fathomsdepth. The pinnace entered among the breakers, but was near being lost, and with difficulty got back to the ship. The captain insisted thatMr. Mumford had steered too much to the southward. He now turned to Mr. Aiken, an able mariner, destined to command the schooner intendedfor the coasting trade, and ordered him, together with John Coles, sail-maker, Stephen Weekes, armorer, and two Sandwich Islanders, toproceed ahead and take soundings, while the ship should follow undereasy sail. In this way they proceeded until Aiken had ascertained thechannel, when signal was given from the ship for him to return on board. He was then within pistol shot, but so furious was the current, andtumultuous the breakers, that the boat became unmanageable, and washurried away, the crew crying out piteously for assistance. In afew moments she could not be seen from the ship's deck. Some of thepassengers climbed to the mizzen top, and beheld her still struggling toreach the ship; but shortly after she broached broadside to the waves, and her case seemed desperate. The attention of those on board of theship was now called to their own safety. They were in shallow water; thevessel struck repeatedly, the waves broke over her, and there was dangerof her foundering. At length she got into seven fathoms water, and thewind lulling, and the night coming on, cast anchor. With the darknesstheir anxieties increased. The wind whistled, the sea roared, the gloomwas only broken by the ghastly glare of the foaming breakers, theminds of the seamen were full of dreary apprehensions, and some of themfancied they heard the cries of their lost comrades mingling withthe uproar of the elements. For a time, too, the rapidly ebbing tidethreatened to sweep them from their precarious anchorage. At length thereflux of the tide, and the springing up of the wind, enabled them toquit their dangerous situation and take shelter in a small bay withinCape Disappointment, where they rode in safety during the residue of astormy night, and enjoyed a brief interval of refreshing sleep. 

With the light of day returned their cares and anxieties. They lookedout from the mast-head over a wild coast, and wilder sea, but coulddiscover no trace of the two boats and their crews that were missing. Several of the natives came on board with peltries, but there was nodisposition to trade. They were interrogated by signs after the lostboats, but could not understand the inquiries. 

Parties now Went on shore and scoured the neighborhood. One of thesewas headed by the captain. They had not proceeded far when they beheld aperson at a distance in civilized garb. As he drew near he proved tobe Weekes, the armorer. There was a burst of joy, for it was hoped hiscomrades were near at hand. His story, however, was one of disaster. Heand his companions had found it impossible to govern their boat, havingno rudder, and being beset by rapid and whirling currents and boisteroussurges. After long struggling they had let her go at the mercy ofthe waves, tossing about, sometimes with her bow, sometimes with herbroadside to the surges, threatened each instant with destruction, yetrepeatedly escaping, until a huge sea broke over and swamped her. Weekeswas overwhelmed by the broiling waves, but emerging above the surface, looked round for his companions. Aiken and Coles were not to be seen;near him were the two Sandwich Islanders, stripping themselves of theirclothing that they might swim more freely. He did the same, and the boatfloating near to him he seized hold of it. The two islanders joined him, and, uniting their forces, they succeeded in turning the boat upon herkeel; then bearing down her stern and rocking her, they forced outso much water that she was able to bear the weight of a man withoutsinking. One of the islanders now got in, and in a little while bailedout the water with his hands. The other swam about and collected theoars, and they all three got once more on board. 

By this time the tide had swept them beyond the breakers, and Weekescalled on his companions to row for land. They were so chilled andbenumbed by the cold, however, that they lost all heart, and absolutelyrefused. Weekes was equally chilled, but had superior sagacity andself-command. He counteracted the tendency to drowsiness and stuporwhich cold produces by keeping himself in constant exercise; andseeing that the vessel was advancing, and that everything depended uponhimself, he set to work to scull the boat clear of the bar, and intoquiet water. 

Toward midnight one of the poor islanders expired; his companion threwhimself on his corpse and could not be persuaded to leave him. Thedismal night wore away amidst these horrors: as the day dawned, Weekesfound himself near the land. He steered directly for it, and at length, with the aid of the surf, ran his boat high upon a sandy beach. 

Finding that one of the Sandwich Islanders yet gave signs of life, heaided him to leave the boat, and set out with him towards the adjacentwoods. The poor fellow, however, was too feeble to follow him, andWeekes was soon obliged to abandon him to his fate and provide for hisown safety. Falling upon a beaten path, he pursued it, and after a fewhours came to a part of the coast, where, to his surprise and joy, hebeheld the ship at anchor and was met by the captain and his party. 

After Weekes had related his adventures, three parties were despatchedto beat up the coast in search of the unfortunate islander. Theyreturned at night without success, though they had used the utmostdiligence. On the following day the search was resumed, and the poorfellow was at length discovered lying beneath a group of rocks, hislegs swollen, his feet torn and bloody from walking through bushes andbriars, and himself half-dead with cold, hunger, and fatigue. Weekes andthis islander were the only survivors of the crew of the jolly-boat, andno trace was ever discovered of Fox and his party. Thus eight men werelost on the first approach to the coast; a commencement that cast agloom over the spirits of the whole party, and was regarded by some ofthe superstitious as an omen that boded no good to the enterprise. 

Towards night the Sandwich Islanders went on shore, to bury the body oftheir unfortunate countryman who had perished in the boat. On arrivingat the place where it had been left, they dug a grave in the sand, inwhich they deposited the corpse, with a biscuit under one of the arms, some lard under the chin, and a small quantity of tobacco, as provisionsfor its journey in the land of spirits. Having covered the body withsand and flints, they kneeled along the grave in a double row, withtheir faces turned to the east, while one who officiated as a priestsprinkled them with water from a hat. In so doing he recited a kind ofprayer or invocation, to which, at intervals, the others made responses. Such were the simple rites performed by these poor savages at the graveof their comrade on the shores of a strange land; and when these weredone, they rose and returned in silence to the ship, without oncecasting a look behind. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

 Mouth of the Columbia. --The Native Tribes. --Their Fishing. -- Their Canoes. --Bold Navigators--Equestrian Indians and Piscatory Indians, Difference in Their Physical Organization. --Search for a Trading Site. --Expedition of M'Dougal and David Stuart-Comcomly, the One-Eyed Chieftain. -- Influence of Wealth in Savage Life. --Slavery Among the Natives. -An Aristocracy of Flatheads. -Hospitality Among the Chinooks--Comcomly's Daughter. --Her Conquest. 

THE Columbia, or Oregon, for the distance of thirty or forty milesfrom its entrance into the sea, is, properly speaking, a mere estuary, indented by deep bays so as to vary from three to seven miles in width;and is rendered extremely intricate and dangerous by shoals reachingnearly from shore to shore, on which, at times, the winds and currentsproduce foaming and tumultuous breakers. The mouth of the river properis but about half a mile wide, formed by the contracting shores of theestuary. The entrance from the sea, as we have already observed, isbounded on the south side by a flat sandy spit of land, stretching into the ocean. This is commonly called Point Adams. The opposite, ornorthern side, is Cape Disappointment; a kind of peninsula, terminatingin a steep knoll or promontory crowned with a forest of pine-trees, andconnected with the mainland by a low and narrow neck. Immediately withinthis cape is a wide, open bay, terminating at Chinook Point, so calledfrom a neighboring tribe of Indians. This was called Baker's Bay, andhere the Tonquin was anchored. 

The natives inhabiting the lower part of the river, and with whom thecompany was likely to have the most frequent intercourse, were dividedat this time into four tribes, the Chinooks, Clatsops, Wahkiacums, andCathlamahs. They resembled each other in person, dress, language, andmanner; and were probably from the same stock, but broken into tribes, or rather hordes, by those feuds and schisms frequent among Indians. 

These people generally live by fishing. It is true they occasionallyhunt the elk and deer, and ensnare the water-fowl of their ponds andrivers, but these are casual luxuries. Their chief subsistence isderived from the salmon and other fish which abound in the Columbiaand its tributary streams, aided by roots and herbs, especially thewappatoo, which is found on the islands of the river. 

As the Indians of the plains who depend upon the chase are boldand expert riders, and pride themselves upon their horses, so thesepiscatory tribes of the coast excel in the management of canoes, and arenever more at home than when riding upon the waves. Their canoes vary inform and size. Some are upwards of fifty feet long, cut out of a singletree, either fir or white cedar, and capable of carrying thirty persons. They have thwart pieces from side to side about three inches thick, and their gunwales flare outwards, so as to cast off the surges of thewaves. The bow and stern are decorated with grotesque figures of men andanimals, sometimes five feet in height. 

In managing their canoes they kneel two and two along the bottom, sitting on their heels, and wielding paddles from four to five feetlong, while one sits on the stern and steers with a paddle of the samekind. The women are equally expert with the men in managing the canoe, and generally take the helm. 

It is surprising to see with what fearless unconcern these savagesventure in their light barks upon the roughest and most tempestuousseas. They seem to ride upon the waves like sea-fowl. Should a surgethrow the canoe upon its side and endanger its overturn, those towindward lean over the upper gunwale, thrust their paddles deep into thewave, apparently catch the water and force it under the canoe, and bythis action not merely regain III an equilibrium, but give their bark avigorous impulse forward. 

The effect of different modes of life upon the human frame and humancharacter is strikingly instanced in the contrast between the huntingIndians of the prairies, and the piscatory Indians of the sea-coast. Theformer, continually on horseback scouring the plains, gaining their foodby hardy exercise, and subsisting chiefly on flesh, are generally tall, sinewy, meagre, but well formed, and of bold and fierce deportment: thelatter, lounging about the river banks, or squatting and curved up intheir canoes, are generally low in stature, ill-shaped, with crookedlegs, thick ankles, and broad flat feet. They are inferior also inmuscular power and activity, and in game qualities and appearance, totheir hard-riding brethren of the prairies. 

Having premised these few particulars concerning the neighboringIndians, we will return to the immediate concerns of the Tonquin and hercrew. 

Further search was made for Mr. Fox and his party, but with no bettersuccess, and they were at length given up as lost. In the meantime, thecaptain and some of the partners explored the river for some distance ina large boat, to select a suitable place for the trading post. Their oldjealousies and differences continued; they never could coincide in theirchoice, and the captain objected altogether to any site so high up theriver. They all returned, therefore, to Baker's Bay in no very goodhumor. The partners proposed to examine the opposite shore, but thecaptain was impatient of any further delay. His eagerness to "get on"had increased upon him. He thought all these excursions a sheer lossof time, and was resolved to land at once, build a shelter for thereception of that part of his cargo destined for the use of thesettlement, and, having cleared his ship of it and of his irksomeshipmates, to depart upon the prosecution of his coasting voyage, according to orders. 

On the following day, therefore, without troubling himself to consultthe partners, he landed in Baker's Bay, and proceeded to erect a shedfor the reception of the rigging, equipments, and stores of the schoonerthat was to be built for the use of the settlement. 

This dogged determination on the part of the sturdy captain gave highoffense to Mr. M'Dougal, who now considered himself at the head of theconcern, as Mr. Astor's representative and proxy. He set off the sameday, (April 5th) accompanied by David Stuart, for the southern shore, intending to be back by the seventh. Not having the captain to contendwith, they soon pitched upon a spot which appeared to them favorablefor the intended establishment. It was on a point of land called PointGeorge, having a very good harbor, where vessels, not exceeding twohundred tons burden, might anchor within fifty yards of the shore. 

After a day thus profitably spent, they recrossed the river, but landedon the northern shore several miles above the anchoring ground of theTonquin, in the neighborhood of Chinooks, and visited the village ofthat tribe. Here they were received with great hospitality by the chief, who was named Comcomly, a shrewd old savage, with but one eye, whowill occasionally figure in this narrative. Each village forms a pettysovereignty, governed by its own chief, who, however, possesses butlittle authority, unless he be a man of wealth and substance; that isto say, possessed of canoe, slaves, and wives. The greater the number ofthese, the greater is the chief. How many wives this one-eyed potentatemaintained we are not told, but he certainly possessed great sway, notmerely over his own tribe, but over the neighborhood. 

Having mentioned slaves, we would observe that slavery exists amongseveral of the tribes beyond the Rocky Mountains. The slaves are welltreated while in good health, but occupied in all kinds of drudgery. Should they become useless, however, by sickness or old age, they aretotally neglected, and left to perish; nor is any respect paid to theirbodies after death. 

A singular custom prevails, not merely among the Chinooks, but amongmost of the tribes about this part of the coast, which is the flatteningof the forehead. The process by which this deformity is effectedcommences immediately after birth. The infant is laid in a woodentrough, by way of cradle. The end on which the head reposes is higherthan the rest. A padding is placed on the forehead of the infant, with apiece of bark above it, and is pressed down by cords, which pass throughholes on each side of the trough. As the tightening of the padding andthe pressing of the head to the board is gradual, the process issaid not to be attended with much pain. The appearance of the infant, however, while in this state of compression, is whimsically hideous, and"its little black eyes, " we are told, "being forced out by the tightnessof the bandages, resemble those of a mouse choked in a trap. "

About a year's pressure is sufficient to produce the desired effect, at the end of which time the child emerges from its bandages a completeflathead, and continues so through life. It must be noted thatthis flattening of the head has something in it of aristocraticalsignificancy, like the crippling of the feet among the Chinese ladies ofquality. At any rate, it is a sign of freedom. No slave is permittedto bestow this enviable deformity upon his child; all the slaves, therefore, are roundheads. 

With this worthy tribe of Chinooks the two partners passed a part ofthe day very agreeably. M'Dougal, who was somewhat vain of his officialrank, had given it to be understood that they were two chiefs of a greattrading company, about to be established here, and the quick-sighted, though one-eyed chief, who was somewhat practiced in traffic with whitemen, immediately perceived the policy of cultivating the friendship oftwo such important visitors. He regaled them, therefore, to the best ofhis ability, with abundance of salmon and wappatoo. The next morning, April 7th, they prepared to return to the vessel, according to promise. They had eleven miles of open bay to traverse; the wind was fresh, thewaves ran high. Comcomly remonstrated with them on the hazard to whichthey would be exposed. They were resolute, however, and launched theirboat, while the wary chieftain followed at some short distance in hiscanoe. Scarce had they rowed a mile, when a wave broke over their boatand upset it. They were in imminent peril of drowning, especially Mr. M'Dougal, who could not swim. Comcomly, however, came bounding over thewaves in his light canoe, and snatched them from a watery grave. 

They were taken on shore and a fire made, at which they dried theirclothes, after which Comcomly conducted them back to his village. Hereeverything was done that could be devised for their entertainment duringthree days that they were detained by bad weather. Comcomly madehis people perform antics before them; and his wives and daughtersendeavored, by all the soothing and endearing arts of women, to findfavor in their eyes. Some even painted their bodies with red clay, andanointed themselves with fish oil, to give additional lustre to theircharms. Mr. M'Dougal seems to have had a heart susceptible to theinfluence of the gentler sex. Whether or no it was first touched on thisoccasion we do not learn; but it will be found, in the course of thiswork, that one of the daughters of the hospitable Comcomly eventuallymade a conquest of the great eri of the American Fur Company. 

When the weather had moderated and the sea became tranquil, the one-eyedchief of the Chinooks manned his state canoe, and conducted hisguests in safety to the ship, where they were welcomed with joy, forapprehensions had been felt for their safety. Comcomly and his peoplewere then entertained on board of the Tonquin, and liberally rewardedfor their hospitality and services. They returned home highly satisfied, promising to remain faithful friends and allies of the white men. 

CHAPTER IX. 

 Point George--Founding of Astoria--Indian Visitors. --Their Reception. --The Captain Taboos the Ship. --Departure of the Tonquin. --Comments on the Conduct of Captain Thorn. 

FROM the report made by the two exploring partners, it was determinedthat Point George should be the site of the trading house. Thesegentlemen, it is true, were not perfectly satisfied with the place, and were desirous of continuing their search; but Captain Thorn wasimpatient to land his cargo and continue his voyage, and protestedagainst any more of what he termed "sporting excursions. "

Accordingly, on the 12th of April the launch was freighted with allthings necessary for the purpose, and sixteen persons departed in her tocommence the establishment, leaving the Tonquin to follow as soon as theharbor could be sounded. 

Crossing the wide mouth of the river, the party landed, and encamped atthe bottom of a small bay within Point George. The situation chosen forthe fortified post was on an elevation facing to the north, with thewide estuary, its sand bars and tumultuous breakers spread out beforeit, and the promontory of Cape Disappointment, fifteen miles distant, closing the prospect to the left. The surrounding country was in all thefreshness of spring; the trees were in the young leaf, the weather wassuperb, and everything looked delightful to men just emancipated from along confinement on shipboard. The Tonquin shortly afterwards made herway through the intricate channel, an came to anchor in the little bay, and was saluted from the encampment with three volleys of musketry andthree cheers. She returned the salute with three cheers and three guns. 

All hands now set to work cutting down trees, clearing away thickets, and marking out the place for the residence, storehouse, and powdermagazine, which were to be built of logs and covered with bark. Otherslanded the timbers intended for the frame of the coasting vessel, andproceeded to put them together, while others prepared a garden spot, andsowed the seeds of various vegetables. 

The next thought was to give a name to the embryo metropolis: the onethat naturally presented itself was that of the projector and supporterof the whole enterprise. It was accordingly named ASTORIA. 

The neighboring Indians now swarmed about the place. Some brought a fewland-otter and sea-otter skins to barter, but in very scanty parcels;the greater number came prying about to gratify their curiosity, forthey are said to be impertinently inquisitive; while not a few camewith no other design than to pilfer; the laws of meum and tuum beingbut slightly respected among them. Some of them beset the ship intheir canoes, among whom was the Chinook chief Comcomly, and his liegesubjects. These were well received by Mr. M'Dougal, who was delightedwith an opportunity of entering upon his functions, and acquiringimportance in the eyes of his future neighbors. The confusion thusproduced on board, and the derangement of the cargo caused by this pettytrade, stirred the spleen of the captain, who had a sovereign contemptfor the one-eyed chieftain and all his crew. He complained loudly ofhaving his ship lumbered by a host of "Indian ragamuffins, " who had nota skin to dispose of, and at length put his positive interdict uponall trafficking on board. Upon this Mr. M'Dougal was fain to land, andestablish his quarters at the encampment, where he could exercise hisrights and enjoy his dignities without control. 

The feud, however, between these rival powers still continued, but waschiefly carried on by letter. Day after day and week after week elapsed, yet the store-house requisite for the reception of the cargo was notcompleted, and the ship was detained in port; while the captain wasteased by frequent requisitions for various articles for the use of theestablishment, or the trade with the natives. An angry correspondencetook place, in which he complained bitterly of the time wasted in"smoking and sporting parties, " as he termed the reconnoiteringexpeditions, and in clearing and preparing meadow ground and turnippatches, instead of despatching his ship. At length all these jarringmatters were adjusted, if not to the satisfaction, at least to theacquiescence of all parties. The part of the cargo destined for the useof Astoria was landed, and the ship left free to proceed on her voyage. 

As the Tonquin was to coast to the north, to trade for peltries at thedifferent harbors, and to touch at Astoria on her return in the autumn, it was unanimously determined that Mr. M'Kay should go in her assupercargo, taking with him Mr. Lewis as ship's clerk. On the first ofJune the ship got under way, and dropped down to Baker's Bay, where shewas detained for a few days by a head wind; but early in the morning ofthe fifth stood out to sea with a fine breeze and swelling canvas, andswept off gaily on her fatal voyage, from which she was never to return!

On reviewing the conduct of Captain Thorn, and examining his peevish andsomewhat whimsical correspondence, the impression left upon our mind is, upon the whole, decidedly in his favor. While we smile at the simplicityof his heart and the narrowness of his views, which made him regardeverything out of the direct path of his daily duty, and the rigidexigencies of the service, as trivial and impertinent, which inspiredhim with contempt for the swelling vanity of some of his coadjutors, andthe literary exercises and curious researches of others, we cannot butapplaud that strict and conscientious devotion to the interests of hisemployer, and to what he considered the true objects of the enterprisein which he was engaged. He certainly was to blame occasionally for theasperity of his manners, and the arbitrary nature of his measures, yetmuch that is exceptionable in this part of his conduct may be traced torigid notions of duty acquired in that tyrannical school, a ship of war, and to the construction given by his companions to the orders of Mr. Astor, so little in conformity with his own. His mind, too, appears tohave become almost diseased by the suspicions he had formed as to theloyalty of his associates, and the nature of their ultimate designs; yeton this point there were circumstances to, in some measure, justify him. The relations between the United States and Great Britain were at thattime in a critical state; in fact, the two countries were on the eve ofa war. Several of the partners were British subjects, and might be readyto desert the flag under which they acted, should a war take place. Their application to the British minister at New York shows the dubiousfeeling with which they had embarked in the present enterprise. They hadbeen in the employ of the Northwest Company, and might be disposedto rally again under that association, should events threaten theprosperity of this embryo establishment of Mr. Astor. Besides, we havethe fact, averred to us by one of the partners, that some of them, whowere young and heedless, took a mischievous and unwarrantable pleasurein playing upon the jealous temper of the captain, and affectingmysterious consultations and sinister movements. 

These circumstances are cited in palliation of the doubts and surmisesof Captain Thorn, which might otherwise appear strange and unreasonable. That most of the partners were perfectly upright and faithful in thedischarge of the trust reposed in them we are fully satisfied; still thehonest captain was not invariably wrong in his suspicions; and thathe formed a pretty just opinion of the integrity of that aspiringpersonage, Mr. M'Dougal, will be substantially proved in the sequel. 

CHAPTER X. 

 Disquieting Rumors From the Interior. --Reconnoitring Party-- Preparations for a Trading Post. --An Unexpected Arrival--A Spy in the Camp. --Expedition Into the Interior--Shores of the Columbia--Mount Coffin. --Indian Sepulchre. --The Land of Spirits--Columbian Valley--Vancouver's Point. -Falls and Rapids. --A Great Fishing Mart. --The Village of Wishram. -- Difference Between Fishing Indians and Hunting Indians-- Effects of Habits of Trade on the Indian Character. --Post Established at the Oakinagan. 

WHILE the Astorians were busily occupied in completing their factory andfort, a report was brought to them by an Indian from the upper part ofthe river, that a party of thirty white men had appeared on the banksof the Columbia, and were actually building houses at the second rapids. This information caused much disquiet. We have already mentioned thatthe Northwest Company had established posts to the west of the RockyMountains, in a district called by them New Caledonia, which extendedfrom lat. 52 to 55 deg north, being within the British territories. Itwas now apprehended that they were advancing within the American limits, and were endeavoring to seize upon the upper part of the river andforestall the American Fur Company in the surrounding trade; in whichcase bloody feuds might be anticipated, such as had prevailed betweenthe rival fur companies in former days. 

A reconnoitring party was sent up the river to ascertain the truth ofthe report. They ascended to the foot of the first rapid, about twohundred miles, but could hear nothing of any white men being in theneighborhood. 

Not long after their return, however, further accounts were received, by two wandering Indians, which established the fact that the NorthwestCompany had actually erected a trading house on the Spokane River, whichfalls into the north branch of the Columbia. 

What rendered this intelligence the more disquieting was the inabilityof the Astorians, in their present reduced state as to numbers, andthe exigencies of their new establishment, to furnish detachmentsto penetrate the country in different directions, and fix the postsnecessary to secure the interior trade. 

It was resolved, however, at any rate, to advance a countercheck to thispost on the Spokan, and one of the partners, Mr. David Stuart, preparedto set out for the purpose with eight men and a small assortment ofgoods. He was to be guided by the two Indians, who knew the country andpromised to take him to a place not far from the Spokan River, and in aneighborhood abounding with beaver. Here he was to establish himself andto remain for a time, provided he found the situation advantageous andthe natives friendly. 

On the 15th of July, when Mr. Stuart was nearly ready to embark, a canoemade its appearance, standing for the harbor, and manned by nine whitemen. Much speculation took place who these strangers could be, for itwas too soon to expect their own people, under Mr. Hunt, who were tocross the continent. As the canoe drew near, the British standard wasdistinguished: on coming to land, one of the crew stepped on shore, andannounced himself as Mr. David Thompson, astronomer, and partner ofthe Northwest Company. According to his account, he had set out in thepreceding year with a tolerably strong party, and a supply of Indiangoods, to cross the Rocky Mountains. A part of his people, however, haddeserted him on the eastern side, and returned with the goods to thenearest Northwest post. He had persisted in crossing the mountainswith eight men, who remained true to him. They had traversed the higherregions, and ventured near the source of the Columbia, where, in thespring, they had constructed a cedar canoe, the same in which they hadreached Astoria. 

This, in fact, was the party despatched by the Northwest Company toanticipate Mr. Astor in his intention of effecting a settlement at themouth of the Columbia River. It appears, from information subsequentlyderived from other sources, that Mr. Thompson had pushed on his coursewith great haste, calling at all the Indian villages in his march, presenting them with British flags, and even planting them at the forksof the rivers, proclaiming formally that he took possession of thecountry in the name of the king of Great Britain for the NorthwestCompany. As his original plan was defeated by the desertion ofhis people, it is probable that he descended the river simply toreconnoitre, and ascertain whether an American settlement had beencommenced. 

Mr. Thompson was, no doubt, the first white man who descended thenorthern branch of the Columbia from so near its source. Lewis andClarke struck the main body of the river at the forks, about fourhundred miles from its mouth. They entered it from Lewis River, itssouthern branch, and thence descended. 

Though Mr. Thompson could be considered as little better than a spy inthe camp, he was received with great cordiality by Mr. M'Dougal, whohad a lurking feeling of companionship and good-will for all of theNorthwest Company. He invited him to head-quarters, where he and hispeople were hospitably entertained. Nay, further, being somewhat inextremity, he was furnished by Mr. M'Dougal with goods and provisionsfor his journey back across the mountains, much against the wishes OfMr. David Stuart, who did not think the object of his visit entitled himto any favor. 

On the 23rd of July, Mr. Stuart set out upon his expedition to theinterior. His party consisted of four of the clerks, Messrs. Pillet, Ross, M'Lennon, and Montigny, two Canadian voyageurs, and two natives ofthe Sandwich Islands. They had three canoes well laden with provisions, and with goods and necessities for a trading establishment. 

Mr. Thompson and his party set out in company with them, it beinghis intention to proceed direct to Montreal. The partners at Astoriaforwarded by him a short letter to Mr. Astor, informing him of theirsafe arrival at the mouth of the Columbia, and that they had notyet heard of Mr. Hunt. The little squadron of canoes set sail with afavorable breeze, and soon passed Tongue Point, a long, high, and rockypromontory, covered with trees, and stretching far into the river. Opposite to this, on the northern shore, is a deep bay, where theColumbia anchored at the time of the discovery, and which is stillcalled Gray's Bay, from the name of her commander. 

From hence, the general course of the river for about seventy mileswas nearly southeast; varying in breadth according to its bays andindentations, and navigable for vessels of three hundred tons. Theshores were in some places high and rocky, with low marshy islands attheir feet, subject to inundation, and covered with willows, poplars, and other trees that love an alluvial soil. Sometimes the mountainsreceded, and gave place to beautiful plains and noble forests. Whilethe river margin was richly fringed with trees of deciduous foliage, therough uplands were crowned by majestic pines, and firs of gigantic size, some towering to the height of between two and three hundred feet, withproportionate circumference. Out of these the Indians wrought theirgreat canoes and pirogues. 

At one part of the river, they passed, on the northern side, an isolatedrock, about one hundred and fifty feet high, rising from a low marshysoil, and totally disconnected with the adjacent mountains. This washeld in great reverence by the neighboring Indians, being one of theirprincipal places of sepulture. The same provident care for the deceasedthat prevails among the hunting tribes of the prairies is observableamong the piscatory tribes of the rivers and sea-coast. Among theformer, the favorite horse of the hunter is buried with him in the samefunereal mound, and his bow and arrows are laid by his side, that hemay be perfectly equipped for the "happy hunting grounds" of the land ofspirits. Among the latter, the Indian is wrapped in his mantle ofskins, laid in his canoe, with his paddle, his fishing spear, and otherimplements beside him, and placed aloft on some rock or other eminenceoverlooking the river, or bay, or lake, that he has frequented. He isthus fitted out to launch away upon those placid streams and sunny lakesstocked with all kinds of fish and waterfowl, which are prepared in thenext world for those who have acquitted themselves as good sons, goodfathers, good husbands, and, above all, good fishermen, during theirmortal sojourn. 

The isolated rock in question presented a spectacle of the kind, numerous dead bodies being deposited in canoes on its summit; while onpoles around were trophies, or, rather, funeral offerings of trinkets, garments, baskets of roots, and other articles for the use of thedeceased. A reverential feeling protects these sacred spots from robberyor insult. The friends of the deceased, especially the women, repairhere at sunrise and sunset for some time after his death, singing hisfuneral dirge, and uttering loud wailings and lamentations. 

From the number of dead bodies in canoes observed upon this rock bythe first explorers of the river, it received the name of Mount Coffin, which it continues to bear. 

Beyond this rock they passed the mouth of a river on the right bankof the Columbia, which appeared to take its rise in a distant mountaincovered with snow. The Indian name of this river was the Cowleskee. Somemiles further on they came to the great Columbian Valley, so called byLewis and Clarke. It is sixty miles in width, and extends far to thesoutheast between parallel ridges of mountains, which bound it on theeast and west. Through the centre of this valley flowed a large andbeautiful stream, called the Wallamot, which came wandering for severalmiles, through a yet unexplored wilderness. The sheltered situation ofthis immense valley had an obvious effect upon the climate. It was aregion of great beauty and luxuriance, with lakes and pools, and greenmeadows shaded by noble groves. Various tribes were said to reside inthis valley, and along the banks of the Wallamot. 

About eight miles above the mouth of the Wallamot the little squadronarrived at Vancouver's Point, so called in honor of that celebratedvoyager by his lieutenant (Broughton) when he explored the river. This point is said to present one of the most beautiful scenes on theColumbia; a lovely meadow, with a silver sheet of limpid water in thecenter, enlivened by wild-fowl, a range of hills crowned by forests, while the prospect is closed by Mount Hood, a magnificent mountainrising into a lofty peak, and covered with snow; the ultimate landmarkof the first explorers of the river. 

Point Vancouver is about one hundred miles from Astoria. Here the refluxof the tide ceases to be perceptible. To this place vessels of two andthree hundred tons burden may ascend. The party under the command ofMr. Stuart had been three or four days in reaching it, though we haveforborne to notice their daily progress and nightly encampments. 

From Point Vancouver the river turned towards the northeast, andbecame more contracted and rapid, with occasional islands and frequentsand-banks. These islands are furnished with a number of ponds, andat certain seasons abound with swans, geese, brandts, cranes, gulls, plover, and other wild-fowl. The shores, too, are low and closelywooded, with such an undergrowth of vines and rushes as to be almostimpassable. 

About thirty miles above Point Vancouver the mountains again approachon both sides of the river, which is bordered by stupendous precipices, covered with the fir and the white cedar, and enlivened occasionally bybeautiful cascades leaping from a great height, and sending up wreathsof vapor. One of these precipices, or cliffs, is curiously worn by timeand weather so as to have the appearance of a ruined fortress, withtowers and battlements, beetling high above the river, while two smallcascades, one hundred and fifty feet in height, pitch down from thefissures of the rocks. 

The turbulence and rapidity of the current continually augmenting asthey advanced, gave the voyagers intimation that they were approachingthe great obstructions of the river, and at length they arrived atStrawberry Island, so called by Lewis and Clarke, which lies at thefoot of the first rapid. As this part of the Columbia will be repeatedlymentioned in the course of this work, being the scene of some of itsincidents, we shall give a general description of it in this place. 

The falls or rapids of the Columbia are situated about one hundred andeighty miles above the mouth of the river. The first is a perpendicularcascade of twenty feet, after which there is a swift descent for amile, between islands of hard black rock, to another pitch of eight feetdivided by two rocks. About two and a half miles below this the riverexpands into a wide basin, seemingly dammed up by a perpendicular ridgeof black rock. A current, however, sets diagonally to the left of thisrocky barrier, where there is a chasm forty-five yards in width. Throughthis the whole body of the river roars along, swelling and whirlingand boiling for some distance in the wildest confusion. Through thistremendous channel the intrepid explorers of the river, Lewis andClarke, passed in their boats; the danger being, not from the rocks, butfrom the great surges and whirlpools. 

At the distance of a mile and a half from the foot of this narrowchannel is a rapid, formed by two rocky islands; and two miles beyond isa second great fall, over a ledge of rocks twenty feet high, extendingnearly from shore to shore. The river is again compressed into a channelfrom fifty to a hundred feet wide, worn through a rough bed of hardblack rock, along which it boils and roars with great fury for thedistance of three miles. This is called "The Long Narrows. "

Here is the great fishing place of the Columbia. In the spring of theyear, when the water is high, the salmon ascend the river in incrediblenumbers. As they pass through this narrow strait, the Indians, standingon the rocks, or on the end of wooden stages projecting from the banks, scoop them up with small nets distended on hoops and attached to longhandles, and cast them on the shore. 

They are then cured and packed in a peculiar manner. After havingbeen opened and disemboweled, they are exposed to the sun on scaffoldserected on the river banks. When sufficiently dry, they are pounded finebetween two stones, pressed into the smallest compass, and packedin baskets or bales of grass matting, about two feet long and one indiameter, lined with the cured skin of a salmon. The top is likewisecovered with fish skins, secured by cords passing through holes in theedge of the basket. Packages are then made, each containing twelve ofthese bales, seven at bottom, five at top, pressed close to each other, with the corded side upward, wrapped in mats and corded. These areplaced in dry situations, and again covered with matting. Each of thesepackages contains from ninety to a hundred pounds of dried fish, whichin this state will keep sound for several years. **

 **(Lewis and Clarke, vol. Ii. P. 32. )

We have given this process at some length, as furnished by the firstexplorers, because it marks a practiced ingenuity in preparing articlesof traffic for a market, seldom seen among our aboriginals. For likereason we would make especial mention of the village of Wishram, at thehead of the Long Narrows, as being a solitary instance of an aboriginaltrading mart, or emporium. Here the salmon caught in the neighboringrapids were "warehoused, " to await customers. Hither the tribes fromthe mouth of the Columbia repaired with the fish of the sea-coast, theroots, berries, and especially the wappatoo, gathered in the lower partsof the river, together with goods and trinkets obtained from the shipswhich casually visit the coast. Hither also the tribes from theRocky Mountains brought down horses, bear-grass, quamash, and othercommodities of the interior. The merchant fishermen at the falls actedas middlemen or factors, and passed the objects of traffic, as it were, cross-handed; trading away part of the wares received from the mountaintribes to those of the rivers and plains, and vice versa: their packagesof pounded salmon entered largely into the system of barter, and beingcarried off in opposite directions, found their way to the savagehunting camps far in the interior, and to the casual white traders whotouched upon the coast. 

We have already noticed certain contrarieties of character between theIndian tribes, produced by their diet and mode of life; and nowhere arethey more apparent than about the falls of the Columbia. The Indiansof this great fishing mart are represented by the earliest explorers assleeker and fatter, but less hardy and active, than the tribes of themountains and prairies, who live by hunting, or of the upper parts ofthe river, where fish is scanty, and the inhabitants must eke out theirsubsistence by digging roots or chasing the deer. Indeed, whenever anIndian of the upper country is too lazy to hunt, yet is fond of goodliving, he repairs to the falls, to live in abundance without labor. 

"By such worthless dogs as these, " says an honest trader in his journal, which now lies before us, "by such worthless dogs as these are thesenoted fishing-places peopled, which, like our great cities, may withpropriety be called the headquarters of vitiated principles. "

The habits of trade and the avidity of gain have their corruptingeffects even in the wilderness, as may be instanced in the members ofthis aboriginal emporium; for the same journalist denounces them as"saucy, impudent rascals, who will steal when they can, and pillagewhenever a weak party falls in their power. "

That he does not belie them will be evidenced hereafter, when we haveoccasion again to touch at Wishram and navigate the rapids. In thepresent instance the travellers effected the laborious ascent of thispart of the river, with all its various portages, without molestation, and once more launched away in smooth water above the high falls. 

The two parties continued together, without material impediment, forthree or four hundred miles further up the Columbia; Mr. Thompsonappearing to take great interest in the success of Mr. Stuart, andpointing out places favorable, as he said, to the establishment of hiscontemplated trading post. 

Mr. Stuart, who distrusted his sincerity, at length pretended to adopthis advice, and, taking leave of him, remained as if to establishhimself, while the other proceeded on his course towards the mountains. No sooner, however, had he fairly departed than Mr. Stuart again pushedforward, under guidance of the two Indians, nor did he stop until he hadarrived within about one hundred and forty miles of the Spokan River, which he considered near enough to keep the rival establishment incheck. The place which he pitched upon for his trading post was a pointof land about three miles in length and two in breadth, formed by thejunction of the Oakinagan with the Columbia. The former is a river whichhas its source in a considerable lake about one hundred and fifty mileswest of the point of junction. The two rivers, about the place of theirconfluence, are bordered by immense prairies covered with herbage, butdestitute of trees. The point itself was ornamented with wild flowersof every hue, in which innumerable humming-birds were "banqueting nearlythe livelong day. "

The situation of this point appeared to be well adapted for a tradingpost. The climate was salubrious, the soil fertile, the rivers wellstocked with fish, the natives peaceable and friendly. There were easycommunications with the interior by the upper waters of the Columbia andthe lateral stream of the Oakinagan, while the downward current of theColumbia furnished a highway to Astoria. 

Availing himself, therefore, of the driftwood which had collected inquantities in the neighboring bends of the river, Mr. Stuart and his menset to work to erect a house, which in a little while was sufficientlycompleted for their residence; and thus was established the firstinterior post of the company. We will now return to notice the progressof affairs at the mouth of the Columbia. 

CHAPTER XI. 

 Alarm at Astoria. --Rumor of Indian Hostilities. -- Preparations for Defense. --Tragic Fate of the Tonquin. 

THE sailing of the Tonquin, and the departure of Mr. David Stuart andhis detachment, had produced a striking effect on affairs at Astoria. The natives who had swarmed about the place began immediately to dropoff, until at length not an Indian was to be seen. This, at first, wasattributed to the want of peltries with which to trade; but in a littlewhile the mystery was explained in a more alarming manner. A conspiracywas said to be on foot among the neighboring tribes to make a combinedattack upon the white men, now that they were so reduced in number. Forthis purpose there had been a gathering of warriors in a neighboringbay, under pretext of fishing for sturgeon; and fleets of canoes wereexpected to join them from the north and South. Even Comcomly, theone-eyed chief, notwithstanding his professed friendship for Mr. M'Dougal, was strongly suspected of being concerned in this generalcombination. 

Alarmed at rumors of this impending danger, the Astorians suspendedtheir regular labor, and set to work, with all haste, to throw uptemporary works for refuge and defense. In the course of a few days theysurrounded their dwelling-house and magazines with a picket fenceninety feet square, flanked by two bastions, on which were mounted fourfour-pounders. Every day they exercised themselves in the use of theirweapons, so as to qualify themselves for military duty, and at nightensconced themselves in their fortress and posted sentinels, to guardagainst surprise. In this way they hoped, even in case of attack, to beable to hold out until the arrival of the party to be conducted by Mr. Hunt across the Rocky Mountains, or until the return of the Tonquin. Thelatter dependence, however, was doomed soon to be destroyed. Early inAugust, a wandering band of savages from the Strait of Juan de Fuca madetheir appearance at the mouth of the Columbia, where they came to fishfor sturgeon. They brought disastrous accounts of the Tonquin, whichwere at first treated as fables, but which were too sadly confirmed bya different tribe that arrived a few days subsequently. We shall relatethe circumstances of this melancholy affair as correctly as the casualdiscrepancies in the statements that have reached us will permit. 

We have already stated that the Tonquin set sail from the mouth ofthe river on the fifth of June. The whole number of persons on boardamounted to twenty-three. In one of the outer bays they picked up, from a fishing canoe, an Indian named Lamazee, who had already madetwo voyages along the coast and knew something of the language of thevarious tribes. He agreed to accompany them as interpreter. 

Steering to the north, Captain Thorn arrived in a few days atVancouver's Island, and anchored in the harbor of Neweetee, very muchagainst the advice of his Indian interpreter, who warned him against theperfidious character of the natives of this part of the coast. Numbersof canoes soon came off, bringing sea-otter skins to sell. It was toolate in the day to commence a traffic, but Mr. M'Kay, accompanied by afew of the men, went on shore to a large village to visit Wicananish, the chief of the surrounding territory, six of the natives remaining onboard as hostages. He was received with great professions of friendship, entertained hospitably, and a couch of sea-otter skins prepared for himin the dwelling of the chieftain, where he was prevailed upon to passthe night. 

In the morning, before Mr. M'Kay had returned to the ship, great numbersof the natives came off in their canoes to trade, headed by two sons ofWicananish. As they brought abundance of sea-otter skins, and there wasevery appearance of a brisk trade, Captain Thorn did not wait forthe return of Mr. M'Kay, but spread his wares upon the deck, making atempting display of blankets, cloths, knives, beads, and fish-hooks, expecting a prompt and profitable sale. The Indians, however, werenot so eager and simple as he had supposed, having learned the art ofbargaining and the value of merchandise from the casual traders alongthe coast. They were guided, too, by a shrewd old chief named Nookamis, who had grown gray in traffic with New England skippers, and pridedhimself upon his acuteness. His opinion seemed to regulate the market. When Captain Thorn made what he considered a liberal offer for anotter-skin, the wily old Indian treated it with scorn, and asked morethan double. His comrades all took their cue from him, and not anotter-skin was to be had at a reasonable rate. 

The old fellow, however, overshot his mark, and mistook the character ofthe man he was treating with. Thorn was a plain, straightforward sailor, who never had two minds nor two prices in his dealings, was deficient inpatience and pliancy, and totally wanting in the chicanery of traffic. He had a vast deal of stern but honest pride in his nature, and, moreover, held the whole savage race in sovereign contempt. Abandoningall further attempts, therefore, to bargain with his shufflingcustomers, he thrust his hands into his pockets, and paced up and downthe deck in sullen silence. The cunning old Indian followed him to andfro, holding out a sea-otter skin to him at every turn, and pesteringhim to trade. Finding other means unavailing, he suddenly changed histone, and began to jeer and banter him upon the mean prices he offered. This was too much for the patience of the captain, who was neverremarkable for relishing a joke, especially when at his own expense. Turning suddenly upon his persecutor, he snatched the profferedotter-skin from his hands, rubbed it in his face, and dismissed himover the side of the ship with no very complimentary application toaccelerate his exit. He then kicked the peltries to the right and leftabout the deck, and broke up the market in the most ignominious manner. Old Nookamis made for shore in a furious passion, in which he wasjoined by Shewish, one of the sons of Wicananish, who went off breathingvengeance, and the ship was soon abandoned by the natives. 

When Mr. M'Kay returned on board, the interpreter related what hadpassed, and begged him to prevail upon the captain to make sail, as fromhis knowledge of the temper and pride of the people of the place, he wassure they would resent the indignity offered to one of their chiefs. Mr. M'Kay, who himself possessed some experience of Indian character, went to the captain, who was still pacing the deck in moody humor, represented the danger to which his hasty act had exposed the vessel, and urged him to weigh anchor. The captain made light of his counsels, and pointed to his cannon and fire-arms as sufficient safeguard againstnaked savages. Further remonstrances only provoked taunting replies andsharp altercations. The day passed away without any signs of hostility, and at night the captain retired as usual to his cabin, taking no morethan the usual precautions. 

On the following morning, at daybreak, while the captain and Mr. M'Kaywere yet asleep, a canoe came alongside in which were twenty Indians, commanded by young Shewish. They were unarmed, their aspect and demeanorfriendly, and they held up otter-skins, and made signs indicative ofa wish to trade. The caution enjoined by Mr. Astor, in respect to theadmission of Indians on board of the ship, had been neglected for sometime past, and the officer of the watch, perceiving those in the canoeto be without weapons, and having received no orders to the contrary, readily permitted them to mount the deck. Another canoe soon succeeded, the crew of which was likewise admitted. In a little while other canoescame off, and Indians were soon clambering into the vessel on all sides. 

The officer of the watch now felt alarmed, and called to Captain Thornand Mr. M'Kay. By the time they came on deck, it was thronged withIndians. The interpreter noticed to Mr. M'Kay that many of the nativeswore short mantles of skins, and intimated a suspicion that they weresecretly armed. Mr. M'Kay urged the captain to clear the ship and getunder way. He again made light of the advice; but the augmented swarm ofcanoes about the ship, and the numbers still putting off from shore, atlength awakened his distrust, and he ordered some of the crew to weighanchor, while some were sent aloft to make sail. 

The Indians now offered to trade with the captain on his own terms, prompted, apparently, by the approaching departure of the ship. Accordingly, a hurried trade was commenced. The main articles sought bythe savages in barter were knives; as fast as some were supplied theymoved off, and others succeeded. By degrees they were thus distributedabout the deck, and all with weapons. 

The anchor was now nearly up, the sails were loose, and the captain, in a loud and peremptory tone, ordered the ship to be cleared. In aninstant, a signal yell was given; it was echoed on every side, knivesand war-clubs were brandished in every direction, and the savages rushedupon their marked victims. 

The first that fell was Mr. Lewis, the ship's clerk. He was leaning, with folded arms, over a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining, whenhe received a deadly stab in the back, and fell down the companion-way. 

Mr. M'Kay, who was seated on the taffrail, sprang on his feet, but wasinstantly knocked down with a war-club and flung backwards into the sea, where he was despatched by the women in the canoes. 

In the meantime Captain Thorn made desperate fight against fearful odds. He was a powerful as well as a resolute man, but he had come upondeck without weapons. Shewish, the young chief singled him out as hispeculiar prey, and rushed upon him at the first outbreak. The captainhad barely time to draw a clasp-knife with one blow of which he laidthe young savage dead at his feet. Several of the stoutest followersof Shewish now set upon him. He defended himself vigorously, dealingcrippling blows to right and left, and strewing the quarter-deck withthe slain and wounded. His object was to fight his way to the cabin, where there were fire-arms; but he was hemmed in with foes, covered withwounds, and faint with loss of blood. For an instant he leaned upon thetiller wheel, when a blow from behind, with a war-club, felled him tothe deck, where he was despatched with knives and thrown overboard. 

While this was transacting upon the quarter-deck, a chance-medley fightwas going on throughout the ship. The crew fought desperately withknives, handspikes, and whatever weapon they could seize upon in themoment of surprise. They were soon, however, overpowered by numbers, andmercilessly butchered. 

As to the seven who had been sent aloft to make sail, they contemplatedwith horror the carnage that was going on below. Being destitute ofweapons, they let themselves down by the running rigging, in hopesof getting between decks. One fell in the attempt, and was instantlydespatched; another received a death-blow in the back as he wasdescending; a third, Stephen Weekes, the armorer, was mortally woundedas he was getting down the hatchway. 

The remaining four made good their retreat into the cabin, where theyfound Mr. Lewis, still alive, though mortally wounded. Barricading thecabin door, they broke holes through the companion-way, and, with themuskets and ammunition which were at hand, opened a brisk fire that sooncleared the deck. 

Thus far the Indian interpreter, from whom these particulars arederived, had been an eye-witness to the deadly conflict. He had taken nopart in it, and had been spared by the natives as being of their race. In the confusion of the moment he took refuge with the rest, in thecanoes. The survivors of the crew now sallied forth, and discharged someof the deck-guns, which did great execution among the canoes, and droveall the savages to shore. 

For the remainder of the day no one ventured to put off to the ship, deterred by the effects of the fire-arms. The night passed away withoutany further attempts on the part of the natives. When the day dawned, the Tonquin still lay at anchor in the bay, her sails all loose andflapping in the wind, and no one apparently on board of her. After atime, some of the canoes ventured forth to reconnoitre, taking with themthe interpreter. 

They paddled about her, keeping cautiously at a distance, but growingmore and more emboldened at seeing her quiet and lifeless. One manat length made his appearance on the deck, and was recognized by theinterpreter as Mr. Lewis. He made friendly signs, and invited them onboard. It was long before they ventured to comply. Those who mountedthe deck met with no opposition; no one was to be seen on board; for Mr. Lewis, after inviting them, had disappeared. Other canoes now pressedforward to board the prize; the decks were soon crowded, and the sidescovered with clambering savages, all intent on plunder. In the midstof their eagerness and exultation, the ship blew up with a tremendousexplosion. Arms, legs, and mutilated bodies were blown into the air, anddreadful havoc was made in the surrounding canoes. The interpreter wasin the main-chains at the time of the explosion, and was thrown unhurtinto the water, where he succeeded in getting into one of the canoes. According to his statement, the bay presented an awful spectacle afterthe catastrophe. The ship had disappeared, but the bay was covered withfragments of the wreck, with shattered canoes, and Indians swimming fortheir lives, or struggling in the agonies of death; while those who hadescaped the danger remained aghast and stupefied, or made with franticpanic for the shore. Upwards of a hundred savages were destroyed by theexplosion, many more were shockingly mutilated, and for days afterwardsthe limbs and bodies of the slain were thrown upon the beach. 

The inhabitants of Neweetee were overwhelmed with consternation at thisastounding calamity, which had burst upon them in the very moment oftriumph. The warriors sat mute and mournful, while the women filledthe air with loud lamentations. Their weeping and walling, however, wassuddenly changed into yells of fury at the sight of four unfortunatewhite men, brought captive into the village. They had been driven onshore in one of the ship's boats, and taken at some distance along thecoast. 

The interpreter was permitted to converse with them. They proved tobe the four brave fellows who had made such desperate defense fromthe cabin. The interpreter gathered from them some of the particularsalready related. They told him further, that after they had beaten offthe enemy and cleared the ship, Lewis advised that they should slipthe cable and endeavor to get to sea. They declined to take his advice, alleging that the wind set too strongly into the bay and would drivethem on shore. They resolved, as soon as it was dark, to put off quietlyin the ship's boat, which they would be able to do unperceived, and tocoast along back to Astoria. They put their resolution into effect; butLewis refused to accompany them, being disabled by his wound, hopelessof escape, and determined on a terrible revenge. On the voyage out, hehad repeatedly expressed a presentiment that he should die by his ownhands; thinking it highly probable that he should be engaged in somecontest with the natives, and being resolved, in case of extremity, to commit suicide rather than be made a prisoner. He now declared hisintention to remain on board of the ship until daylight, to decoy asmany of the savages on board as possible, then to set fire to the powdermagazine, and terminate his life by a signal of vengeance. How well hesucceeded has been shown. His companions bade him a melancholy adieu, and set off on their precarious expedition. They strove with might andmain to get out of the bay, but found it impossible to weather a pointof land, and were at length compelled to take shelter in a small cove, where they hoped to remain concealed until the wind should be morefavorable. Exhausted by fatigue and watching, they fell into a soundsleep, and in that state were surprised by the savages. Better had itbeen for those unfortunate men had they remained with Lewis, andshared his heroic death: as it was, they perished in a more painful andprotracted manner, being sacrificed by the natives to the manes of theirfriends with all the lingering tortures of savage cruelty. Some timeafter their death, the interpreter, who had remained a kind of prisonerat large, effected his escape, and brought the tragical tidings toAstoria. 

Such is the melancholy story of the Tonquin, and such was the fate ofher brave but headstrong commander, and her adventurous crew. It is acatastrophe that shows the importance, in all enterprises of moment, to keep in mind the general instructions of the sagacious heads whichdevise them. Mr. Astor was well aware of the perils to which shipswere exposed on this coast from quarrels with the natives, and fromperfidious attempts of the latter to surprise and capture them inunguarded moments. He had repeatedly enjoined it upon Captain Thorn, in conversation, and at parting, in his letter of instructions, to becourteous and kind in his dealings with the savages, but by no means toconfide in their apparent friendship, nor to admit more than a few onboard of his ship at a time. 

Had the deportment of Captain Thorn been properly regulated, the insultso wounding to savage pride would never have been given. Had he enforcedthe rule to admit but a few at a time, the savages would not have beenable to get the mastery. He was too irritable, however, to practice thenecessary self-command, and, having been nurtured in a proud contempt ofdanger, thought it beneath him to manifest any fear of a crew of unarmedsavages. 

With all his faults and foibles, we cannot but speak of him with esteem, and deplore his untimely fate; for we remember him well in early life, as a companion in pleasant scenes and joyous hours. When on shore, amonghis friends, he was a frank, manly, sound-hearted sailor. On boardship he evidently assumed the hardness of deportment and sternness ofdemeanor which many deem essential to naval service. Throughoutthe whole of the expedition, however, he showed himself loyal, single-minded, straightforward, and fearless; and if the fate ofhis vessel may be charged to his harshness and imprudence, we shouldrecollect that he paid for his error with his life. 

The loss of the Tonquin was a grievous blow to the infant establishmentof Astoria, and one that threatened to bring after it a train ofdisasters. The intelligence of it did not reach Mr. Astor until manymonths afterwards. He felt it in all its force, and was aware that itmust cripple, if not entirely defeat, the great scheme of his ambition. In his letters, written at the time, he speaks of it as "a calamity, thelength of which he could not foresee. " He indulged, however, in noweak and vain lamentation, but sought to devise a prompt and efficientremedy. The very same evening he appeared at the theatre with his usualserenity of countenance. A friend, who knew the disastrous intelligencehe had received, expressed his astonishment that he could have calmnessof spirit sufficient for such a scene of light amusement. "What wouldyou have me do?" was his characteristic reply; "would you have me stayat home and weep for what I cannot help?"

CHAPTER XII. 

 Gloom at Astoria--An Ingenious Stratagem. --The Small-Pox Chief. --Launching of the Dolly. -An Arrival. --A Canadian Trapper. -A Freeman of the Forest--An Iroquois Hunter. -- Winter on the Columbia. -Festivities of New Year. 

THE tidings of the loss of the Tonquin, and the massacre of her crew, struck dismay into the hearts of the Astorians. They found themselvesa mere handful of men, on a savage coast, surrounded by hostile tribes, who would doubtless be incited and encouraged to deeds of violence bythe late fearful catastrophe. In this juncture Mr. M'Dougal, we aretold, had recourse to a stratagem by which to avail himself of theignorance and credulity of the savages, and which certainly does creditto his ingenuity. 

The natives of the coast, and, indeed, of all the regions west of themountains, had an extreme dread of the small-pox; that terrific scourgehaving, a few years previously, appeared among them, and almost sweptoff entire tribes. Its origin and nature were wrapped in mystery, andthey conceived it an evil inflicted upon them by the Great Spirit, orbrought among them by the white men. The last idea was seized upon byMr. M'Dougal. He assembled several of the chieftains whom he believed tobe in the conspiracy. When they were all seated around, he informed themthat he had heard of the treachery of some of their northern brethrentowards the Tonquin, and was determined on vengeance. "The white menamong you, " said he, "are few in number, it is true, but they are mightyin medicine. See here, " continued he, drawing forth a small bottle andholding it before their eyes, "in this bottle I hold the small-pox, safely corked up; I have but to draw the cork, and let loose thepestilence, to sweep man, woman, and child from the face of the earth. "

The chiefs were struck with horror and alarm. They implored him not touncork the bottle, since they and all their people were firm friends ofthe white men, and would always remain so; but, should the small-poxbe once let out, it would run like wildfire throughout the country, sweeping off the good as well as the bad; and surely he would not be sounjust as to punish his friends for crimes committed by his enemies. 

Mr. M'Dougal pretended to be convinced by their reasoning, and assuredthem that, so long as the white people should be unmolested, and theconduct of their Indian neighbors friendly and hospitable, the phial ofwrath should remain sealed up; but, on the least hostility, the fatalcork should be drawn. 

From this time, it is added, he was much dreaded by the natives, as onewho held their fate in his hands, and was called, by way of preeminence, "the Great Small-pox Chief. "

All this while, the labors at the infant settlement went on withunremitting assiduity, and, by the 26th of September, a commodiousmansion, spacious enough to accommodate all hands, was completed. Itwas built of stone and clay, there being no calcarcous stone in theneighborhood from which lime for mortar could be procured. The schoonerwas also finished, and launched, with the accustomed ceremony, on thesecond of October, and took her station below the fort. She was namedthe Dolly, and was the first American vessel launched on this coast. 

On the 5th of October, in the evening, the little community at Astoriawas enlivened by the unexpected arrival of a detachment from Mr. DavidStuart's post on the Oakinagan. It consisted of two of the clerksand two of the privates. They brought favorable accounts of the newestablishment, but reported that, as Mr. Stuart was apprehensive theremight be a difficulty of subsisting his whole party throughout thewinter, he had sent one half back to Astoria, retaining with him onlyRoss, Montigny, and two others. Such is the hardihood of the Indiantrader. In the heart of a savage and unknown country, seven hundredmiles from the main body of his fellow-adventurers, Stuart had dismissedhalf of his little number, and was prepared with the residue to braveall the perils of the wilderness, and the rigors of a long and drearywinter. 

With the return party came a Canadian creole named Regis Brugiere and anIroquois hunter, with his wife and two children. As these twopersonages belong to certain classes which have derived their peculiarcharacteristics from the fur trade, we deem some few particularsconcerning them pertinent to the nature of this work. 

Brugiere was of a class of beaver trappers and hunters technicallycalled "Freemen, " in the language of the traders. They are generallyCanadians by birth, and of French descent, who have been employed fora term of years by some fur company, but, their term being expired, continue to hunt and trap on their own account, trading with the companylike the Indians. Hence they derive their appellation of Freemen, todistinguish them from the trappers who are bound for a number of years, and receive wages, or hunt on shares. 

Having passed their early youth in the wilderness, separated almostentirely from civilized man, and in frequent intercourse with theIndians, they relapse, with a facility common to human nature, intothe habitudes of savage life. Though no longer bound by engagements tocontinue in the interior, they have become so accustomed to the freedomof the forest and the prairie, that they look back with repugnanceupon the restraints of civilization. Most of them intermarry withthe natives, and, like the latter, have often a plurality of wives. Wanderers of the wilderness, according to the vicissitudes of theseasons, the migrations of animals, and the plenty or scarcity of game, they lead a precarious and unsettled existence; exposed to sun andstorm, and all kinds of hardships, until they resemble Indians incomplexion as well as in tastes and habits. From time to time, theybring the peltries they have collected to the trading houses of thecompany in whose employ they have been brought up. Here they trafficthem away for such articles of merchandise or ammunition as they maystand in need of. At the time when Montreal was the great emporium ofthe fur trader, one of these freemen of the wilderness would suddenlyreturn, after an absence of many years, among his old friends andcomrades. He would be greeted as one risen from the dead; and with thegreater welcome, as he returned flush of money. A short time, however, spent in revelry, would be sufficient to drain his purse and satehim with civilized life, and he would return with new relish to theunshackled freedom of the forest. 

Numbers of men of this class were scattered throughout the northwestterritories. Some of them retained a little of the thrift andforethought of the civilized man, and became wealthy among theirimprovident neighbors; their wealth being chiefly displayed in largebands of horses, which covered the prairies in the vicinity of theirabodes. Most of them, however, were prone to assimilate to the red manin their heedlessness of the future. 

Such was Regis Brugiere, a freeman and rover of the wilderness. Havingbeen brought up in the service of the Northwest Company, he had followedin the train of one of its expeditions across the Rocky Mountains, andundertaken to trap for the trading post established on the Spokan River. In the course of his hunting excursions he had either accidentally, or designedly, found his way to the post of Mr. Stuart, and had beenprevailed upon to ascend the Columbia, and "try his luck" at Astoria. 

Ignace Shonowane, the Iroquois hunter, was a specimen of a differentclass. He was one of those aboriginals of Canada who had partiallyconformed to the habits of civilization and the doctrines ofChristianity, under the influence of the French colonists and theCatholic priests; who seem generally to have been more successful inconciliating, taming, and converting the savages, than their Englishand Protestant rivals. These half-civilized Indians retained some of thegood, and many of the evil qualities of their original stock. They werefirst-rate hunters, and dexterous in the management of the canoe. Theycould undergo great privations, and were admirable for the service ofthe rivers, lakes, and forests, provided they could be kept sober, andin proper subordination; but once inflamed with liquor, to which theywere madly addicted, all the dormant passions inherent in their naturewere prone to break forth, and to hurry them into the most vindictiveand bloody acts of violence. 

Though they generally professed the Roman Catholic religion, yet it wasmixed, occasionally, with some of their ancient superstitions; and theyretained much of the Indian belief in charms and omens. Numbers of thesemen were employed by the Northwest Company as trappers, hunters, andcanoe men, but on lower terms than were allowed to white men. IgnaceShonowane had, in this way, followed the enterprise of the company tothe banks of the Spokan, being, probably, one of the first of his tribethat had traversed the Rocky Mountains. 

Such were some of the motley populace of the wilderness, incident tothe fur trade, who were gradually attracted to the new settlement ofAstoria. 

The month of October now began to give indications of approachingwinter. Hitherto, the colonists had been well pleased with the climate. The summer had been temperate, the mercury never rising above eightydegrees. Westerly winds had prevailed during the spring and the earlypart of the summer, and been succeeded by fresh breezes from thenorthwest. In the month of October the southerly winds set in, bringingwith them frequent rain. 

The Indians now began to quit the borders of the ocean, and to retireto their winter quarters in the sheltered bosom of the forests, oralong the small rivers and brooks. The rainy season, which commences inOctober, continues, with little intermission, until April; and thoughthe winters are generally mild, the mercury seldom sinking below thefreezing point, yet the tempests of wind and rain are terrible. The sunis sometimes obscured for weeks, the brooks swell into roaring torrents, and the country is threatened with a deluge. 

The departure of the Indians to their winter quarters gradually renderedprovisions scanty, and obliged the colonists to send out foragingexpeditions in the Dolly. Still the little handful of adventurers keptup their spirits in their lonely fort at Astoria, looking forward to thetime when they should be animated and reinforced by the party under Mr. Hunt, that was to come to them across the Rocky Mountains. 

The year gradually wore way. The rain, which had poured down almostincessantly since the first of October, cleared up towards the eveningof the 31st of December, and the morning of the first of January usheredin a day of sunshine. 

The hereditary French holiday spirit of the French voyageurs is hardlyto be depressed by any adversities; and they can manage to get up afete in the most squalid situations, and under the most untowardcircumstances. An extra allowance of rum, and a little flour to makecakes and puddings, constitute a "regale;" and they forget all theirtoils and troubles in the song and dance. 

On the present occasion, the partners endeavored to celebrate the newyear with some effect. At sunrise the drums beat to arms, the colorswere hoisted, with three rounds of small arms and three discharges ofcannon. The day was devoted to games of agility and strength, and otheramusements; and grog was temperately distributed, together with bread, butter, and cheese. The best dinner their circumstances could affordwas served up at midday. At sunset the colors were lowered, with anotherdischarge of artillery. The night was spent in dancing; and, thoughthere was a lack of female partners to excite their gallantry, thevoyageurs kept up the ball with true French spirit, until three o'clockin the morning. So passed the new year festival of 1812 at the infantcolony of Astoria. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

 Expedition by Land. --Wilson P. Hunt. --His Character. --Donald M'Kenzie. --Recruiting Service Among the Voyageurs. --A Bark Canoe. --Chapel of St. Anne. -Votive Offerings. --Pious Carousals, --A Ragged Regiment. -Mackinaw. --Picture of a Trading Post. --Frolicking Voyageurs. --Swells and Swaggerers. -- Indian Coxcombs. --A Man of the North. --Jockeyship of Voyageurs--Inefficacy of Gold. -Weight of a Feather--Mr. Ramsay Crooks--His Character. --His Risks Among the Indians. -- His Warning Concerning Sioux and Blackfeet. --Embarkation of Recruits. --Parting Scenes Between Brothers, Cousins, Wives, Sweethearts, and Pot Companions. 

WE have followed up the fortunes of the maritime part of this enterpriseto the shores of the Pacific, and have conducted the affairs of theembryo establishment to the opening of the new year; let us now turnback to the adventurous band to whom was intrusted the land expedition, and who were to make their way to the mouth of the Columbia, up vastrivers, across trackless plains, and over the rugged barriers of theRocky Mountains. 

The conduct of this expedition, as has been already mentioned, wasassigned to Mr. Wilson Price Hunt, of Trenton, New Jersey, one of thepartners of the company, who was ultimately to be at the head of theestablishment at the mouth of the Columbia. He is represented as aman scrupulously upright and faithful his dealings, amicable in hisdisposition, and of most accommodating manners; and his whole conductwill be found in unison with such a character. He was not practicallyexperienced in the Indian trade; that is to say, he had never made anyexpeditions of traffic into the heart of the wilderness, but he hadbeen engaged in commerce at St. Louis, then a frontier settlement onthe Mississippi, where the chief branch of his business had consisted infurnishing Indian traders with goods and equipments. In this way, he hadacquired much knowledge of the trade at second hand, and of the varioustribes, and the interior country over which it extended. 

Another of the partners, Mr. Donald M'Kenzie, was associated with Mr. Hunt in the expedition, and excelled on those points in which the otherwas deficient; for he had been ten years in the interior, in theservice of the Northwest Company, and valued himself on his knowledge of"woodcraft, " and the strategy of Indian trade and Indian warfare. He hada frame seasoned to toils and hardships; a spirit not to be intimidated, and was reputed to be a "remarkable shot;" which of itself wassufficient to give him renown upon the frontier. 

Mr. Hunt and his coadjutor repaired, about the latter part of July, 1810, to Montreal, the ancient emporium of the fur trade whereeverything requisite for the expedition could be procured. One of thefirst objects was to recruit a complement of Canadian voyageurs from thedisbanded herd usually to be found loitering about the place. A degreeof jockeyship, however, is required for this service, for a Canadianvoyageur is as full of latent tricks and vice as a horse; and when hemakes the greatest external promise, is prone to prove the greatest"take in. " Besides, the Northwest Company, who maintained a longestablished control at Montreal, and knew the qualities of everyvoyageur, secretly interdicted the prime hands from engaging in thisnew service; so that, although liberal terms were offered, few presentedthemselves but such as were not worth having. 

From these Mr. Hunt engaged a number sufficient, as he supposed, for present purposes; and, having laid in a supply of ammunition, provisions, and Indian goods, embarked all on board one of those greatcanoes at that time universally used by the fur traders for navigatingthe intricate and often-obstructed rivers. The canoe was between thirtyand forty feet long, and several feet in width; constructed of birchbark, sewed with fibres of the roots of the spruce tree, and daubed withresin of the pine, instead of tar. The cargo was made up in packages, weighing from ninety to one hundred pounds each, for the facility ofloading and unloading, and of transportation at portages. The canoeitself, though capable of sustaining a freight of upwards of four tons, could readily be carried on men's shoulders. Canoes of this size aregenerally managed by eight or ten men, two of whom are picked veterans, who receive double wages, and are stationed, one at the bow and theother at the stern, to keep a look-out and to steer. They are termedthe foreman and the steersman. The rest, who ply the paddles, are calledmiddle men. When there is a favorable breeze, the canoe is occasionallynavigated with a sail. 

The expedition took its regular departure, as usual, from St. Anne's, near the extremity of the island of Montreal, the great starting-placeof the traders to the interior. Here stood the ancient chapel ofSt. Anne, the patroness of the Canadian voyageurs; where they madeconfession, and offered up their vows, previous to departing on anyhazardous expedition. The shrine of the saint was decorated with relicsand votive offerings hung up by these superstitious beings, either topropitiate her favor, or in gratitude for some signal deliverance inthe wilderness. It was the custom, too, of these devout vagabonds, afterleaving the chapel, to have a grand carouse, in honor of the saint andfor the prosperity of the voyage. In this part of their devotions, thecrew of Mr. Hunt proved themselves by no means deficient. Indeed, hesoon discovered that his recruits, enlisted at Montreal, were fit tovie with the ragged regiment of Falstaff. Some were able-bodied, butinexpert; others were expert, but lazy; while a third class were expertand willing, but totally worn out, being broken-down veterans, incapableof toil. 

With this inefficient crew he made his way up the Ottawa River, and bythe ancient route of the fur traders, along a succession of small lakesand rivers, to Michilimackinac. Their progress was slow and tedious. Mr. Hunt was not accustomed to the management of "voyageurs, " and he had acrew admirably disposed to play the old soldier, and balk their work;and ever ready to come to a halt, land, make a fire, put on the greatpot, and smoke, and gossip, and sing by the hour. 

It was not until the 22d of July that they arrived at Mackinaw, situatedon the island of the same name, at the confluence of--lakes Huron andMichigan. This famous old French trading post continued to be a rallyingpoint for a multifarious and motley population. The inhabitants wereamphibious in their habits, most of them being, or having been voyageursor canoe men. It was the great place of arrival and departure of thesouthwest fur trade. Here the Mackinaw Company had established itsprincipal post, from whence it communicated with the interior and withMontreal. Hence its various traders and trappers set out for theirrespective destinations about Lake Superior and its tributary waters, orfor the Mississippi, the Arkansas, the Missouri, and the other regionsof the west. Here, after the absence of a year, or more, they returnedwith their peltries, and settled their accounts; the furs rendered in bythem being transmitted in canoes from hence to Montreal. Mackinaw was, therefore, for a great part of the year, very scantily peopled; but atcertain seasons the traders arrived from all points, with their crews ofvoyageurs, and the place swarmed like a hive. 

Mackinaw, at that time, was a mere village, stretching along a smallbay, with a fine broad beach in front of its principal row of houses, and dominated by the old fort, which crowned an impending height. The beach was a kind of public promenade where were displayed all thevagaries of a seaport on the arrival of a fleet from a long cruise. Herevoyageurs frolicked away their wages, fiddling and dancing in the boothsand cabins, buying all kinds of knick-knacks, dressing themselves outfinely, and parading up and down, like arrant braggarts and coxcombs. Sometimes they met with rival coxcombs in the young Indians from theopposite shore, who would appear on the beach painted and decoratedin fantastic style, and would saunter up and down, to be gazed atand admired, perfectly satisfied that they eclipsed their pale-facedcompetitors. 

Now and then a chance party of "Northwesters" appeared at Mackinaw fromthe rendezvous at Fort William. These held themselves up as the chivalryof the fur trade. They were men of iron; proof against cold weather, hard fare, and perils of all kinds. Some would wear the Northwestbutton, and a formidable dirk, and assume something of a military air. They generally wore feathers in their hats, and affected the "brave. ""Je suis un homme du nord!"-"I am a man of the north, "-one of theseswelling fellows would exclaim, sticking his arms akimbo and ruffling bythe Southwesters, whom he regarded with great contempt, as men softenedby mild climates and the luxurious fare of bread and bacon, and whomhe stigmatized with the inglorious name of pork-eaters. The superiorityassumed by these vainglorious swaggerers was, in general, tacitlyadmitted. Indeed, some of them had acquired great notoriety for deedsof hardihood and courage; for the fur trade had Its heroes, whose namesresounded throughout the wilderness. 

Such was Mackinaw at the time of which we are treating. It now, doubtless, presents a totally different aspect. The fur companies nolonger assemble there; the navigation of the lake is carried on bysteamboats and various shipping, and the race of traders, and trappers, and voyageurs, and Indian dandies, have vapored out their brief hour anddisappeared. Such changes does the lapse of a handful of years make inthis ever-changing country. 

At this place Mr. Hunt remained for some time, to complete hisassortment of Indian goods, and to increase his number of voyageurs, aswell as to engage some of a more efficient character than those enlistedat Montreal. 

And now commenced another game of Jockeyship. There were able andefficient men in abundance at Mackinaw, but for several days not onepresented himself. If offers were made to any, they were listened towith a shake of the head. Should any one seem inclined to enlist, therewere officious idlers and busybodies, of that class who are ever readyto dissuade others from any enterprise in which they themselves have noconcern. These would pull him by the sleeve, take him on one side, andmurmur in his ear, or would suggest difficulties outright. 

It was objected that the expedition would have to navigate unknownrivers, and pass through howling wildernesses infested by savage tribes, who had already cut off the unfortunate voyageurs that had venturedamong them; that it was to climb the Rocky Mountains and descend intodesolate and famished regions, where the traveller was often obliged tosubsist on grasshoppers and crickets, or to kill his own horse for food. 

At length one man was hardy enough to engage, and he was used like a"stool-pigeon, " to decoy others; but several days elapsed before anymore could be prevailed upon to join him. A few then came to terms. Itwas desirable to engage them for five years, but some refused to engagefor more than three. Then they must have part of their pay in advance, which was readily granted. When they had pocketed the amount, andsquandered it in regales or in outfits, they began to talk of pecuniaryobligations at Mackinaw, which must be discharged before they would befree to depart; or engagements with other persons, which were only tobe canceled by a "reasonable consideration. " It was in vain to argue orremonstrate. The money advanced had already been sacked and spent, andmust be lost and the recruits left behind, unless they could be freedfrom their debts and engagements. Accordingly, a fine was paid for one;a judgment for another; a tavern bill for a third, and almost all had tobe bought off from some prior engagement, either real or pretended. 

Mr. Hunt groaned in spirit at the incessant and unreasonable demands ofthese worthies upon his purse; yet with all this outlay of funds, thenumber recruited was but scanty, and many of the most desirable stillheld themselves aloof, and were not to be caught by a golden bait. Withthese he tried another temptation. Among the recruits who had enlistedhe distributed feathers and ostrich plumes. These they put in theirhats, and thus figured about Mackinaw, assuming airs of vast importance, as "voyageurs" in a new company, that was to eclipse the Northwest. Theeffect was complete. A French Canadian is too vain and mercurial abeing to withstand the finery and ostentation of the feather. Numbersimmediately pressed into the service. One must have an ostrich plume;another, a white feather with a red end; a third, a bunch of cock'stails. Thus all paraded about, in vainglorious style, more delightedwith the feathers in their hats than with the money in their pockets;and considering themselves fully equal to the boastful "men of thenorth. "

While thus recruiting the number of rank and file, Mr. Hunt was joinedby a person whom he had invited, by letter, to engage as a partner inthe expedition. This was Mr. Ramsay Crooks, a young man, a native ofScotland, who had served under the Northwest Company, and been engagedin trading expeditions upon his individual account, among the tribes ofthe Missouri. Mr. Hunt knew him personally, and had conceived a highand merited opinion of his judgment, enterprise, and integrity; he wasrejoiced, therefore, when the latter consented to accompany him. Mr. Crooks, however, drew from experience a picture of the dangers towhich they would be subjected, and urged the importance of going with aconsiderable force. In ascending the upper Missouri they would haveto pass through the country of the Sioux Indians, who had manifestedrepeated hostility to the white traders, and rendered their expeditionsextremely perilous; firing upon them from the river banks as they passedbeneath in their boats, and attacking them in their encampments. Mr. Crooks himself, when voyaging in company with another trader of the nameof M'Lellan, had been interrupted by these marauders, and had consideredhimself fortunate in escaping down the river without loss of life orproperty, but with a total abandonment of his trading voyage. 

Should they be fortunate enough to pass through the country of the Siouxwithout molestation, they would have another tribe still more savage andwarlike beyond, and deadly foes of white men. 

These were the Blackfeet Indians, who ranged over a wide extentof country which they would have to traverse. Under all thesecircumstances, it was thought advisable to augment the partyconsiderably. It already exceeded the number of thirty, to which ithad originally been limited; but it was determined, on arriving at St. Louis, to increase it to the number of sixty. 

These matters being arranged, they prepared to embark; but theembarkation of a crew of Canadian voyageurs, on a distant expedition, isnot so easy a matter as might be imagined; especially of such a set ofvainglorious fellows with money in both pockets, and cocks' tails intheir hats. Like sailors, the Canadian voyageurs generally preface along cruise with a carouse. They have their cronies, their brothers, their cousins, their wives, their sweethearts, all to be entertainedat their expense. They feast, they fiddle, they drink, they sing, theydance, they frolic and fight, until they are all as mad as so manydrunken Indians. The publicans are all obedience to their commands, never hesitating to let them run up scores without limit, knowing that, when their own money is expended, the purses of their employers mustanswer for the bill, or the voyage must be delayed. Neither was itpossible, at that time, to remedy the matter at Mackinaw. In thatamphibious community there was always a propensity to wrest the laws infavor of riotous or mutinous boatmen. It was necessary, also, to keepthe recruits in good humor, seeing the novelty and danger of the serviceinto which they were entering, and the ease with which they might atanytime escape it by jumping into a canoe and going downstream. 

Such were the scenes that beset Mr. Hunt, and gave him a foretaste ofthe difficulties of his command. The little cabarets and sutlers' shopsalong the bay resounded with the scraping of fiddles, with snatches ofold French songs, with Indian whoops and yells, while every plumed andfeathered vagabond had his troop of loving cousins and comrades at hisheels. It was with the utmost difficulty they could be extricated fromthe clutches of the publicans and the embraces of their pot companions, who followed them to the water's edge with many a hug, a kiss on eachcheek, and a maudlin benediction in Canadian French. 

It was about the 12th of August that they left Mackinaw, and pursued theusual route by Green Bay, Fox and Wisconsin rivers, to Prairie du Chien, and thence down the Mississippi to St. Louis, where they landed on the3d of September. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

 St. Louis. --Its Situation. --Motley Population. --French Creole Traders and Their Dependants. --Missouri Fur Company-- Mr. Manuel Lisa. --Mississippi Boatmen. --Vagrant Indians. --Kentucky Hunters--Old French Mansion--Fiddling--Billiards --Mr. Joseph Miller--His Character--Recruits--Voyage Up the Missouri. --Difficulties of the River. --Merits of Canadian Voyageurs. -Arrival at the Nodowa. --Mr. Robert M'Lellan joins the Party--John Day, a Virginia Hunter. Description of Him. --Mr. Hunt Returns to St. Louis. 

ST. LOUIS, which is situated on the right bank of the MississippiRiver, a few miles below the mouth of the Missouri, was, at that time, afrontier settlement, and the last fitting-out place for the Indian tradeof the Southwest. It possessed a motley population, composed of thecreole descendants of the original French colonists; the keen tradersfrom the Atlantic States; the backwoodsmen of Kentucky and Tennessee;the Indians and half-breeds of the prairies; together with a singularaquatic race that had grown up from the navigation of the rivers--the"boatmen of the Mississippi"--who possessed habits, manners, and almosta language, peculiarly their own, and strongly technical. They, at thattime, were extremely numerous, and conducted the chief navigation andcommerce of the Ohio and the Mississippi, as the voyageurs did of theCanadian waters; but, like them, their consequence and characteristicsare rapidly vanishing before the all-pervading intrusion of steamboats. 

The old French houses engaged in the Indian trade had gathered roundthem a train of dependents, mongrel Indians, and mongrel Frenchmen, who had intermarried with Indians. These they employed in their variousexpeditions by land and water. Various individuals of other countrieshad, of late years, pushed the trade further into the interior, tothe upper waters of the Missouri, and had swelled the number of thesehangers-on. Several of these traders had, two or three years previously, formed themselves into a company, composed of twelve partners, witha capital of about forty thousand dollars, called the Missouri FurCompany; the object of which was, to establish posts along the upperpart of that river, and monopolize the trade. The leading partner ofthis company was Mr. Manuel Lisa, a Spaniard by birth, and a man of boldand enterprising character, who had ascended the Missouri almost to itssource, and made himself well acquainted and popular with several of itstribes. By his exertions, trading posts had been established, in 1808, in the Sioux country, and among the Aricara and Mandan tribes; and aprincipal one, under Mr. Henry, one of the partners, at the forks ofthe Missouri. This company had in its employ about two hundred and fiftymen, partly American and partly creole voyageurs. 

All these circumstances combined to produce a population at St. Louiseven still more motley than that at Mackinaw. Here were to be seen, about the river banks, the hectoring, extravagant bragging boatmen ofthe Mississippi, with the gay, grimacing, singing, good-humored Canadianvoyageurs. Vagrant Indians, of various tribes, loitered aboutthe streets. Now and then a stark Kentucky hunter, in leathernhunting-dress, with rifle on shoulder and knife in belt, strode along. Here and there were new brick houses and shops, just set up by bustling, driving, and eager men of traffic from the Atlantic States; while, onthe other hand, the old French mansions, with open casements, stillretained the easy, indolent air of the original colonists; and now andthen the scraping of a fiddle, a strain of an ancient French song, or the sound of billiard balls, showed that the happy Gallic turn forgayety and amusement still lingered about the place. 

Such was St. Louis at the time of Mr. Hunt's arrival there, and theappearance of a new fur company, with ample funds at its command, produced a strong sensation among the I traders of the place, andawakened keen jealousy and opposition on the part of the MissouriCompany. Mr. Hunt proceeded to strengthen himself against allcompetition. For this purpose, he secured to the interests of theassociation another of those enterprising men, who had been engagedin individual traffic with the tribes of the Missouri. This was a Mr. Joseph Miller, a gentleman well educated and well informed, and of arespectable family of Baltimore. He had been an officer in the armyof the United States, but had resigned in disgust, on being refuseda furlough, and had taken to trapping beaver and trading among theIndians. He was easily induced by Mr. Hunt to join as a partner, and wasconsidered by him, on account of his education and acquirements, and hisexperience in Indian trade, a valuable addition to the company. 

Several additional men were likewise enlisted at St. Louis, some asboatmen, and others as hunters. These last were engaged, not merely tokill game for provisions, but also, and indeed chiefly, to trap beaverand other animals of rich furs, valuable in the trade. They enlistedon different terms. Some were to have a fixed salary of three hundreddollars; others were to be fitted out and maintained at the expense ofthe company, and were to hunt and trap on shares. 

As Mr. Hunt met with much opposition on the part of rival traders, especially the Missouri Fur Company, it took him some weeks to completehis preparations. The delays which he had previously experienced atMontreal, Mackinaw, and on the way, added to those at St. Louis, hadthrown him much behind his original calculations, so that it would beimpossible to effect his voyage up the Missouri in the present year. This river, flowing from high and cold latitudes, and through wide andopen plains, exposed to chilling blasts, freezes early. The wintermay be dated from the first of November; there was every prospect, therefore, that it would be closed with ice long before Mr. Hunt couldreach its upper waters. To avoid, however, the expense of wintering atSt. Louis, he determined to push up the river as far as possible, tosome point above the settlements, where game was plenty, and where hiswhole party could be subsisted by hunting, until the breaking up of theice in the spring should permit them to resume their voyage. 

Accordingly on the twenty-first of October he took his departure fromSt. Louis. His party was distributed in three boats. One was the bargewhich he had brought from Mackinaw; another was of a larger size, suchas was formerly used in navigating the Mohawk River, and known by thegeneric name of the Schenectady barge; the other was a large keel boat, at that time the grand conveyance on the Mississippi. 

In this way they set out from St. Louis, in buoyant spirits, and soonarrived at the mouth of the Missouri. This vast river, three thousandmiles in length, and which, with its tributary streams, drains suchan immense extent of country, was as yet but casually and imperfectlynavigated by the adventurous bark of the fur trader. A steamboat hadnever yet stemmed its turbulent current. Sails were but of casualassistance, for it required a strong wind to conquer the force of thestream. The main dependence was on bodily strength and manual dexterity. The boats, in general, had to be propelled by oars and setting poles, or drawn by the hand and by grappling hooks from one root or overhangingtree to another; or towed by the long cordelle, or towing line, wherethe shores were sufficiently clear of woods and thickets to permit themen to pass along the banks. 

During this slow and tedious progress the boat would be exposed tofrequent danger from floating trees and great masses of drift-wood, or to be impaled upon snags and sawyers; that is to say, sunken trees, presenting a jagged or pointed end above the surface of the water. Asthe channel of the river frequently shifted from side to side accordingto the bends and sand-banks, the boat had, in the same way, to advancein a zigzag course. Often a part of the crew would have to leap into thewater at the shallows, and wade along with the towing line, whiletheir comrades on board toilfully assisted with oar and settingpole. Sometimes the boat would seem to be retained motionless, asif spell-bound, opposite some point round which the current set withviolence, and where the utmost labor scarce effected any visibleprogress. 

On these occasions it was that the merits of the Canadian voyageurs cameinto full action. Patient of toil, not to be disheartened by impedimentsand disappointments, fertile in expedients, and versed in every modeof humoring and conquering the wayward current, they would ply everyexertion, sometimes in the boat, sometimes on shore, sometimes in thewater, however cold; always alert, always in good humor; and, shouldthey at any time flag or grow weary, one of their popular songs, chanted by a veteran oarsman, and responded to in chorus, acted as anever-failing restorative. 

By such assiduous and persevering labor they made their way about fourhundred and fifty miles up the Missouri, by the 16th of November, tothe mouth of the Nodowa. As this was a good hunting country, and as theseason was rapidly advancing, they determined to establish their winterquarters at this place; and, in fact, two days after they had come to ahalt, the river closed just above their encampment. 

The party had not been long at this place when they were joined by Mr. Robert M'Lellan, another trader of the Missouri; the same who had beenassociated with Mr. Crooks in the unfortunate expedition in which theyhad been intercepted by the Sioux Indians, and obliged to make a rapidretreat down the river. 

M'Lellan was a remarkable man. He had been a partisan under GeneralWayne, in his Indian wars, where he had distinguished himself by hisfiery spirit and reckless daring, and marvelous stories were told ofhis exploits. His appearance answered to his character. His frame wasmeagre, but muscular; showing strength, activity, and iron firmness. Hiseyes were dark, deep-set, and piercing. He was restless, fearless, butof impetuous and sometimes ungovernable temper. He had been invited byMr. Hunt to enroll himself as a partner, and gladly consented; beingpleased with the thoughts of passing with a powerful force through thecountry of the Sioux, and perhaps having an opportunity of revenginghimself upon that lawless tribe for their past offenses. 

Another recruit that joined the camp at Nodowa deserves equal mention. This was John Day, a hunter from the backwoods of Virginia, who had beenseveral years on the Missouri in the service of Mr. Crooks, and of othertraders. He was about forty years of age, six feet two inches high, straight as an Indian; with an elastic step as if he trod on springs, and a handsome, open, manly countenance. It was his boast that, in hisyounger days, nothing could hurt or daunt him; but he had "lived toofast, " and injured his constitution by his excesses. Still he was strongof hand, bold of heart, a prime woodman, and an almost unerring shot. Hehad the frank spirit of a Virginian, and the rough heroism of a pioneerof the west. 

The party were now brought to a halt for several months. They were in acountry abounding with deer and wild turkeys, so that there was no stintof provisions, and every one appeared cheerful and contented. Mr. Huntdetermined to avail himself of this interval to return to St. Louis andobtain a reinforcement. 

He wished to procure an interpreter, acquainted with the language ofthe Sioux, as, from all accounts, he apprehended difficulties in passingthrough the country of that nation. He felt the necessity, also, ofhaving a greater number of hunters, not merely to keep up a supply ofprovisions throughout their long and arduous expedition, but also as aprotection and defense, in case of Indian hostilities. For such servicethe Canadian voyageurs were little to be depended upon, fighting notbeing a part of their profession. The proper kind of men were Americanhunters, experienced in savage life and savage warfare, and possessed ofthe true game spirit of the west. 

Leaving, therefore, the encampment in charge of the other partners, Mr. Hunt set off on foot on the first of January (1810), for St. Louis. Hewas accompanied by eight men as far as Fort Osage, about one hundredand fifty miles below Nodowa. Here he procured a couple of horses, andproceeded on the remainder of his journey with two men, sending theother six back to the encampment. He arrived at St. Louis on the 20th ofJanuary. 

CHAPTER XV. 

 Opposition of the Missouri Fur Company. -Blackfeet Indians. -- Pierre Dorion, a Half-Breed Interpreter. --Old Dorion and His Hybrid Progeny--Family Quarrels. --Cross Purposes Between Dorion and Lisa. --Renegadoes From Nodowa. --Perplexities of a Commander. --Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall Join the Expedition. -Legal Embarrassments of Pierre Dorion. -- Departure From St. Louis. --Conjugal Discipline of a Half- Breed. --Annual Swelling of the Rivers. -Daniel Boone, the Patriarch of Kentucky. -John Colter. -His Adventures Among the Indians. -Rumors of Danger Ahead. -Fort Osage. -An Indian War- Feast. -Troubles in the Dorion Family. --Buffaloes and Turkey- Buzzards. 

ON this his second visit to St. Louis, Mr. Hunt was again impeded in hisplans by the opposition of the Missouri Fur Company. The affairs ofthat company were, at this time, in a very dubious state. During thepreceding year, their principal establishment at the forks of theMissouri had been so much harassed by the Blackfeet Indians, that itscommander, Mr. Henry, one of the partners, had been compelled to abandonthe post and cross the Rocky Mountains, with the intention of fixinghimself upon one of the upper branches of the Columbia. What had becomeof him and his party was unknown. The most intense anxiety was feltconcerning them, and apprehensions that they might have been cut offby the savages. At the time of Mr. Hunt's arrival at St. Louis, theMissouri Company were fitting out an expedition to go in quest of Mr. Henry. It was to be conducted by Mr. Manuel Lisa, the partner alreadymentioned. 

There being thus two expeditions on foot at the same moment, an unusualdemand was occasioned for hunters and voyageurs, who accordinglyprofited by the circumstance, and stipulated for high terms. Mr. Huntfound a keen and subtle competitor in Lisa, and was obliged to securehis recruits by liberal advances of pay, and by other pecuniaryindulgences. 

The greatest difficulty was to procure the Sioux interpreter. There wasbut one man to be met with at St. Louis who was fitted for the purpose, but to secure him would require much management. The individual inquestion was a half-breed, named Pierre Dorion; and, as he figureshereafter in this narrative, and is, withal, a striking specimen of thehybrid race on the frontier, we shall give a few particulars concerninghim. Pierre was the son of Dorion, the French interpreter, whoaccompanied Messrs. Lewis and Clark in their famous exploring expeditionacross the Rocky Mountains. Old Dorion was one of those French creoles, descendants of the ancient Canadian stock, who abound on the westernfrontier, and amalgamate or cohabit with the savages. He had sojournedamong various tribes, and perhaps left progeny among them all; but hisregular, or habitual wife, was a Sioux squaw. By her he had a hopefulbrood of half-breed sons, of whom Pierre was one. The domestic affairsof old Dorion were conducted on the true Indian plan. Father and sonswould occasionally get drunk together, and then the cabin was a scene ofruffian brawl and fighting, in the course of which the old Frenchmanwas apt to get soundly belabored by his mongrel offspring. In a furiousscuffle of the kind, one of the sons got the old man upon the ground, and was upon the point of scalping him. "Hold! my son, " cried the oldfellow, in imploring accents, "you are too brave, too honorable toscalp your father!" This last appeal touched the French side of thehalf-breed's heart, so he suffered the old man to wear his scalpunharmed. 

Of this hopeful stock was Pierre Dorion, the man whom it was now thedesire of Mr. Hunt to engage as an interpreter. He had been employed inthat capacity by the Missouri Fur Company during the preceding year, andconducted their traders in safety through the different tribes of theSioux. He had proved himself faithful and serviceable while sober; butthe love of liquor, in which he had been nurtured and brought up, wouldoccasionally break out, and with it the savage side of his character. 

It was his love of liquor which had embroiled him with the MissouriCompany. While in their service at Fort Mandan, on the frontier, he hadbeen seized with a whiskey mania; and, as the beverage was only to beprocured at the company's store, it had been charged in his account atthe rate of ten dollars a quart. This item had ever remained unsettled, and a matter of furious dispute, the mere mention of which wassufficient to put him in a passion. 

The moment it was discovered by Mr. Lisa that Pierre Dorion was intreaty with the new and rival association, he endeavored, by threats aswell as promises, to prevent his engaging in their service. His promisesmight, perhaps, have prevailed; but his threats, which related to thewhiskey debt, only served to drive Pierre into the opposite ranks. Stillhe took advantage of this competition for his services to stand out withMr. Hunt on the most advantageous terms, and, after a negotiation ofnearly two weeks, capitulated to serve in the expedition, as hunter andinterpreter, at the rate of three hundred dollars a year, two hundred ofwhich were to be paid in advance. 

When Mr. Hunt had got everything ready for leaving St. Louis, newdifficulties arose. Five of the American hunters from the encampment atNodowa, suddenly made their appearance. They alleged that they hadbeen ill treated by the partners at the encampment, and had come offclandestinely, in consequence of a dispute. It was useless at thepresent moment, and under present circumstances, to attempt anycompulsory measures with these deserters. Two of them Mr. Hunt prevailedupon, by mild means, to return with him. The rest refused; nay, whatwas worse, they spread such reports of the hardships and dangers to beapprehended in the course of the expedition, that they struck a panicinto those hunters who had recently engaged at St. Louis, and, when thehour of departure arrived, all but one refused to embark. It was in vainto plead or remonstrate; they shouldered their rifles and turned theirbacks upon the expedition, and Mr. Hunt was fain to put off from shorewith the single hunter and a number of voyageurs whom he had engaged. Even Pierre Dorion, at the last moment, refused to enter the boat untilMr. Hunt consented to take his squaw and two children on board also. Butthe tissue of perplexities, on account of this worthy individual, didnot end here. 

Among the various persons who were about to proceed up the Missouri withMr. Hunt, were two scientific gentlemen; one Mr. John Bradbury, a manof mature age, but great enterprise and personal activity, who hadbeen sent out by Linnaean Society of Liverpool to make a collectionof American plants; the other, a Mr. Nuttall, likewise an Englishman, younger in years, who has since made himself known as the author ofTravels in Arkansas, and a work on the Genera of American Plants. Mr. Hunt had offered them the protection and facilities of his party, intheir scientific research up the Missouri River. As they were not readyto depart at the moment of embarkation, they put their trunks on boardof the boat, but remained at St. Louis until the next day, for thearrival of the post, intending to join the expedition at St. Charles, ashort distance above the mouth of the Missouri. 

The same evening, however, they learned that a writ had been issuedagainst Pierre Dorion for his whiskey debt, by Mr. Lisa, as agent of theMissouri Company, and that it was the intention to entrap the mongrellinguist on his arrival at St. Charles. 

Upon hearing this, Mr. Bradbury and Mr. Nuttall set off a littleafter midnight, by land, got ahead of the boat as it was ascending theMissouri, before its arrival at St. Charles, and gave Pierre Dorionwarning of the legal toil prepared to ensnare him. 

The knowing Pierre immediately landed and took to the woods, followed byhis squaw laden with their papooses, and a large bundle containing theirmost precious effects, promising to rejoin the party some distanceabove St. Charles. There seemed little dependence to be placed upon thepromises of a loose adventurer of the kind, who was at the very timeplaying an evasive game with his former employers; who had alreadyreceived two-thirds of his year's pay, and his rifle on his shoulder, his family and worldly fortunes at his heels, and the wild woods beforehim. There was no alternative, however, and it was hoped his piqueagainst his old employers would render him faithful to his new ones. 

The party reached St. Charles in the afternoon, but the harpies of thelaw looked in vain for their expected prey. The boats resumed theircourse on the following morning, and had not proceeded far when PierreDorion made his appearance on the shore. He was gladly taken on board, but he came without his squaw. They had quarreled in the night; Pierrehad administered the Indian discipline of the cudgel, whereupon she hadtaken to the woods, with their children and all their worldly goods. Pierre evidently was deeply grieved and disconcerted at the loss of hiswife and his knapsack, whereupon Mr. Hunt despatched one of theCanadian voyageurs in search of the fugitive; and the whole party, after proceeding a few miles further, encamped on an island to waithis return. The Canadian rejoined the party, but without the squaw; andPierre Dorion passed a solitary and anxious night, bitterly regrettinghis indiscretion in having exercised his conjugal authority so nearhome. Before daybreak, however, a well-known voice reached his ears fromthe opposite shore. It was his repentant spouse, who had been wanderingthe woods all night in quest of the party, and had at length descried itby its fires. A boat was despatched for her, the interesting familywas once more united, and Mr. Hunt now flattered himself that hisperplexities with Pierre Dorion were at an end. 

Bad weather, very heavy rains, and an unusually early rise in theMissouri, rendered the ascent of the river toilsome, slow, anddangerous. The rise of the Missouri does not generally take place untilthe month of May or June: the present swelling of the river must havebeen caused by a freshet in some of its more southern branches. It couldnot have been the great annual flood, as the higher branches must stillhave been ice-bound. 

And here we cannot but pause, to notice the admirable arrangement ofnature, by which the annual swellings of the various great rivers whichempty themselves into the Mississippi, have been made to precede eachother at considerable intervals. Thus, the flood of the Red Riverprecedes that of the Arkansas by a month. The Arkansas, also, rising ina much more southern latitude than the Missouri, takes the lead of itin its annual excess, and its superabundant waters are disgorged anddisposed of long before the breaking up of the icy barriers of thenorth; otherwise, did all these mighty streams rise simultaneously, anddischarge their vernal floods into the Mississippi, an inundation wouldbe the consequence, that would submerge and devastate all the lowercountry. 

On the afternoon of the third day, January, 17th, the boats touchedat Charette, one of the old villages founded by the original Frenchcolonists. Here they met with Daniel Boone, the renowned patriarchof Kentucky, who had kept in the advance of civilization, and on theborders of the wilderness, still leading a hunter's life, though now inhis eighty-fifth year. He had but recently returned from a huntingand trapping expedition, and had brought nearly sixty beaver skins astrophies of his skill. The old man was still erect in form, strong inlimb, and unflinching in spirit, and as he stood on the river bank, watching the departure of an expedition destined to traverse thewilderness to the very shores of the Pacific, very probably felt a throbof his old pioneer spirit, impelling him to shoulder his rifle and jointhe adventurous band. Boone flourished several years after this meeting, in a vigorous old age, the Nestor of hunters and backwoodsmen; and died, full of sylvan honor and renown, in 1818, in his ninety-second year. 

The next morning early, as the party were yet encamped at the mouth ofa small stream, they were visited by another of these heroes of thewilderness, one John Colter, who had accompanied Lewis and Clarke intheir memorable expedition. He had recently made one of those vastinternal voyages so characteristic of this fearless class of men, and ofthe immense regions over which they hold their lonely wanderings; havingcome from the head waters of the Missouri to St. Louis in a small canoe. This distance of three thousand miles he had accomplished in thirtydays. Colter kept with the party all the morning. He had manyparticulars to give them concerning the Blackfeet Indians, a restlessand predatory tribe, who had conceived an implacable hostility to thewhite men, in consequence of one of their warriors having been killedby Captain Lewis, while attempting to steal horses. Through the countryinfested by these savages the expedition would have to proceed, andColter was urgent in reiterating the precautions that ought to beobserved respecting them. He had himself experienced their vindictivecruelty, and his story deserves particular citation, as showing thehairbreadth adventures to which these solitary rovers of the wildernessare exposed. 

Colter, with the hardihood of a regular trapper, had cast himself loosefrom the party of Lewis and Clarke in the very heart of the wilderness, and had remained to trap beaver alone on the head waters of theMissouri. Here he fell in with another lonely trapper, like himself, named Potts, and they agreed to keep together. They were in the veryregion of the terrible Blackfeet, at that time thirsting to revenge thedeath of their companion, and knew that they had to expect no mercy attheir hands. They were obliged to keep concealed all day in the woodymargins of the rivers, setting their traps after nightfall and takingthem up before daybreak. It was running a fearful risk for the sake of afew beaver skins; but such is the life of the trapper. 

They were on a branch of the Missouri called Jefferson Fork, and had settheir traps at night, about six miles up a small river that emptied intothe fork. Early in the morning they ascended the river in a canoe, toexamine the traps. The banks on each side were high and perpendicular, and cast a shade over the stream. As they were softly paddling along, they heard the trampling of many feet upon the banks. Colter immediatelygave the alarm of "Indians!" and was for instant retreat. Potts scoffedat him for being frightened by the trampling of a herd of buffaloes. Colter checked his uneasiness and paddled forward. They had not gonemuch further when frightful whoops and yells burst forth from each sideof the river, and several hundred Indians appeared on either bank. Signs were made to the unfortunate trappers to come on shore. They wereobliged to comply. Before they could get out of their canoe, a savageseized the rifle belonging to Potts. Colter sprang on shore, wrestledthe weapon from the hands of the Indian, and restored it to hiscompanion, who was still in the canoe, and immediately pushed into thestream. There was the sharp twang of a bow, and Potts cried out that hewas wounded. Colter urged him to come on shore and submit, as his onlychance for life; but the other knew there was no prospect of mercy, anddetermined to die game. Leveling his rifle, he shot one of the savagesdead on the spot. The next moment he fell himself, pierced withinnumerable arrows. 

The vengeance of the savages now turned upon Colter. He was strippednaked, and, having some knowledge of the Blackfoot language, overhearda consultation as to the mode of despatching him, so as to derive thegreatest amusement from his death. Some were for setting him up as amark, and having a trial of skill at his expense. The chief, however, was for nobler sport. He seized Colter by the shoulder, and demanded ifhe could run fast. The unfortunate trapper was too well acquainted withIndian customs not to comprehend the drift of the question. He knewhe was to run for his life, to furnish a kind of human hunt to hispersecutors. Though in reality he was noted among his brother huntersfor swiftness of foot, he assured the chief that he was a very badrunner. His stratagem gained him some vantage ground. He was led by thechief into the prairie, about four hundred yards from the main body ofsavages, and then turned loose to save himself if he could. A tremendousyell let him know that the whole pack of bloodhounds were off in fullcry. Colter flew rather than ran; he was astonished at his own speed;but he had six miles of prairie to traverse before he should reach theJefferson Fork of the Missouri; how could he hope to hold out such adistance with the fearful odds of several hundred to one against him!The plain, too, abounded with the prickly pear, which wounded his nakedfeet. Still he fled on, dreading each moment to hear the twang of a bow, and to feel an arrow quivering at his heart. He did not even dare tolook round, lest he should lose an inch of that distance on which hislife depended. He had run nearly half way across the plain when thesound of pursuit grew somewhat fainter, and he ventured to turn hishead. The main body of his pursuers were a considerable distance behind;several of the fastest runners were scattered in the advance; while aswift-footed warrior, armed with a spear, was not more than a hundredyards behind him. 

Inspired with new hope, Colter redoubled his exertions, but strainedhimself to such a degree, that the blood gushed from his mouth andnostrils, and streamed down his breast. He arrived within a mile of theriver. The sound of footsteps gathered upon him. A glance behind showedhis pursuer within twenty yards, and preparing to launch his spear. Stopping short he turned round and spread out his arms. The savage, confounded by this sudden action, attempted to stop and hurl his spear, but fell in the very act. His spear stuck in the ground, and the shaftbroke in his hand. Colter plucked up the pointed part, pinned the savageto the earth, and continued his flight. The Indians, as they arrived attheir slaughtered companion, stopped to howl over him. Colter made themost of this precious delay, gained the skirt of cotton-wood borderingthe river, dashed through it, and plunged into the stream. He swam toa neighboring island, against the upper end of which the driftwoodhad lodged in such quantities as to form a natural raft; under this hedived, and swam below water until he succeeded in getting a breathingplace between the floating trunks of trees, whose branches and bushesformed a covert several feet above the level of the water. He hadscarcely drawn breath after all his toils, when he heard his pursuers onthe river bank, whooping and yelling like so many fiends. They plungedin the river, and swam to the raft. The heart of Colter almost diedwithin him as he saw them, through the chinks of his concealment, passing and repassing, and seeking for him in all directions. They atlength gave up the search, and he began to rejoice in his escape, whenthe idea presented itself that they might set the raft on fire. Herewas a new source of horrible apprehension, in which he remained untilnightfall. Fortunately the idea did not suggest itself to the Indians. As soon as it was dark, finding by the silence around that his pursuershad departed, Colter dived again and came up beyond the raft. He thenswam silently down the river for a considerable distance, when helanded, and kept on all night, to get as far as possible from thisdangerous neighborhood. 

By daybreak he had gained sufficient distance to relieve him from theterrors of his savage foes; but now new sources of inquietude presentedthemselves. He was naked and alone, in the midst of an unboundedwilderness; his only chance was to reach a trading post of the MissouriCompany, situated on a branch of the Yellowstone River. Even should heelude his pursuers, days must elapse before he could reach this post, during which he must traverse immense prairies destitute of shade, hisnaked body exposed to the burning heat of the sun by day, and the dewsand chills of the night season, and his feet lacerated by the thorns ofthe prickly pear. Though he might see game in abundance around him, hehad no means of killing any for his sustenance, and must depend for foodupon the roots of the earth. In defiance of these difficulties he pushedresolutely forward, guiding himself in his trackless course by thosesigns and indications known only to Indians and backwoodsmen; and afterbraving dangers and hardships enough to break down any spirit but thatof a western pioneer, arrived safe at the solitary post in question. *

 (* Bradbury, Travels in America, p. 17. )

Such is a sample of the rugged experience which Colter had to relateof savage life; yet, with all these perils and terrors fresh in hisrecollection, he could not see the present band on their way to thoseregions of danger and adventure, without feeling a vehement impulseto join them. A western trapper is like a sailor; past hazards onlystimulate him to further risks. The vast prairie is to the one whatthe ocean is to the other, a boundless field of enterprise and exploit. However he may have suffered in his last cruise, he is always ready tojoin a new expedition; and the more adventurous its nature, the moreattractive is it to his vagrant spirit. 

Nothing seems to have kept Colter from continuing with the party tothe shores of the Pacific but the circumstances of his having recentlymarried. All the morning he kept with them, balancing in his mind thecharms of his bride against those of the Rocky Mountains; the former, however, prevailed, and after a march of several miles, he took areluctant leave of the travellers, and turned his face homeward. 

Continuing their progress up the Missouri, the party encamped on theevening of the 21st of March, in the neighborhood of a little frontiervillage of French creoles. Here Pierre Dorion met with some of his oldcomrades, with whom he had a long gossip, and returned to the camp withrumors of bloody feuds between the Osages and the loways, or Ayaways, Potowatomies, Sioux, and Sawkees. Blood had already been shed, andscalps been taken. A war party, three hundred strong, were prowlingin the neighborhood; others might be met with higher up the river;it behooved the travellers, therefore, to be upon their guard againstrobbery or surprise, for an Indian war-party on the march is prone toacts of outrage. 

In consequence of this report, which was subsequently confirmed byfurther intelligence, a guard was kept up at night round the encampment, and they all slept on their arms. As they were sixteen in number, andwell supplied with weapons and ammunition, they trusted to be able togive any marauding party a warm reception. Nothing occurred, however, tomolest them on their voyage, and on the 8th of April they came in sightof Fort Osage. On their approach the flag was hoisted on the fort, andthey saluted it by a discharge of fire-arms. Within a short distance ofthe fort was an Osage village, the inhabitants of which, men, women, andchildren, thronged down to the water side to witness their landing. Oneof the first persons they met on the river bank was Mr. Crooks, whohad come down in a boat, with nine men, from their winter encampment atNodowa to meet them. 

They remained at Fort Osage a part of three days, during which they werehospitably entertained at the garrison by Lieutenant Brownson, who helda temporary command. They were regaled also with a war-feast at thevillage; the Osage warriors having returned from a successful forayagainst the loways, in which they had taken seven scalps. They wereparaded on poles about the village, followed by the warriors decked outin all their savage ornaments, and hideously painted as if for battle. 

By the Osage warriors, Mr. Hunt and his companions were again warned tobe on their guard in ascending the river, as the Sioux tribe meant tolay in wait and attack them. 

On the 10th of April they again embarked their party, being nowaugmented to twenty-six, by the addition of Mr. Crooks and his boat'screw. They had not proceeded far, however, when there was a great outcryfrom one of the boats; it was occasioned by a little domestic disciplinein the Dorion family. The squaw of the worthy interpreter, it appeared, had been so delighted with the scalp-dance, and other festivities of theOsage village, that she had taken a strong inclination to remain there. This had been as strongly opposed by her liege lord, who had compelledher to embark. The good dame had remained sulky ever since, whereuponPierre, seeing no other mode of exorcising the evil spirit out of her, and being, perhaps, a little inspired by whiskey, had resorted to theIndian remedy of the cudgel, and before his neighbors could interfere, had belabored her so soundly, that there is no record of her havingshown any refractory symptoms throughout the remainder of theexpedition. 

For a week they continued their voyage, exposed to almost incessantrains. The bodies of drowned buffaloes floated past them in vastnumbers; many had drifted upon the shore, or against the upper endsof the rafts and islands. These had attracted great flights ofturkey-buzzards; some were banqueting on the carcasses, others weresoaring far aloft in the sky, and others were perched on the trees, withtheir backs to the sun, and their wings stretched out to dry, like somany vessels in harbor, spreading their sails after a shower. 

The turkey-buzzard (vultur aura, or golden vulture), when on the wing, is one of the most specious and imposing of birds. Its flight in theupper regions of the air is really sublime, extending its immense wings, and wheeling slowly and majestically to and fro, seemingly withoutexerting a muscle or fluttering a feather, but moving by mere volition, and sailing on the bosom of the air, as a ship upon the ocean. Usurpingthe empyreal realm of the eagle, he assumes for a time the port anddignity of that majestic bird, and often is mistaken for him by ignorantcrawlers upon the earth. It is only when he descends from the clouds topounce upon carrion that he betrays his low propensities, and revealshis caitiff character. Near at hand he is a disgusting bird, ragged inplumage, base in aspect, and of loathsome odor. 

On the 17th of April Mr. Hunt arrived with his party at the stationnear the Nodowa River, where the main body had been quartered during thewinter. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

 Return of Spring. --Appearance of Snakes. --Great Flights of Wild Pigeons. --Renewal of the Voyage. --Night Encampments. -- Platte River. --Ceremonials on Passing It. --Signs of Indian War Parties. --Magnificent Prospect at Papillion Creek. -- Desertion of Two Hunters. --An Irruption Into the Camp of Indian Desperadoes. --Village of the Omahas. --Anecdotes of the Tribe. --Feudal Wars of the Indians. --Story of Blackbird, the Famous Omaha Chief. 

THE weather continued rainy and ungenial for some days after Mr. Hunt'sreturn to Nodowa; yet spring was rapidly advancing and vegetation wasputting forth with all its early freshness and beauty. The snakesbegan to recover from their torpor and crawl forth into day; and theneighborhood of the wintering house seems to have been much infestedwith them. Mr. Bradbury, in the course of his botanical researches, found a surprising number in a half torpid state, under flat stonesupon the banks which overhung the cantonment, and narrowly escaped beingstruck by a rattlesnake, which darted at him from a cleft in the rock, but fortunately gave him warning by his rattle. 

The pigeons, too, were filling the woods in vast migratory flocks. It isalmost incredible to describe the prodigious flights of these birds inthe western wildernesses. They appear absolutely in clouds, and movewith astonishing velocity, their wings making a whistling sound as theyfly. The rapid evolutions of these flocks wheeling and shifting suddenlyas if with one mind and one impulse; the flashing changes of color theypresent, as their backs their breasts, or the under part of their wingsare turned to the spectator, are singularly pleasing. When they alight, if on the ground, they cover whole acres at a time; if upon trees, thebranches often break beneath their weight. If suddenly startled whilefeeding in the midst of a forest, the noise they make in getting on thewing is like the roar of a cataract or the sound of distant thunder. 

A flight of this kind, like an Egyptian flight of locusts, devourseverything that serves for its food as it passes along. So great werethe numbers in the vicinity of the camp that Mr. Bradbury, in thecourse of a morning's excursion, shot nearly three hundred with afowling-piece. He gives a curious, though apparently a faithful, accountof the kind of discipline observed in these immense flocks, so that eachmay have a chance of picking up food. As the front ranks must meet withthe greatest abundance, and the rear ranks must have scanty pickings, the instant a rank finds itself the hindmost, it rises in the air, fliesover the whole flock and takes its place in the advance. The next rankfollows in its course, and thus the last is continually becoming firstand all by turns have a front place at the banquet. 

The rains having at length subsided, Mr. Hunt broke up the encampmentand resumed his course up the Missouri. 

The party now consisted of nearly sixty persons, of whom five werepartners, one, John Reed, was a clerk; forty were Canadian "voyageurs, "or "engages, " and there were several hunters. They embarked in fourboats, one of which was of a large size, mounting a swivel, and twohowitzers. All were furnished with masts and sails, to be used when thewind was sufficiently favorable and strong to overpower the current ofthe river. Such was the case for the first four or five days, when theywere wafted steadily up the stream by a strong southeaster. 

Their encampments at night were often pleasant and picturesque: on somebeautiful bank, beneath spreading trees, which afforded them shelter andfuel. The tents were pitched, the fires made, and the meals prepared bythe voyageurs, and many a story was told, and joke passed, and song sunground the evening fire. All, however, were asleep at an early hour. Someunder the tents, others wrapped in blankets before the fire, or beneaththe trees; and some few in the boats and canoes. 

On the 28th, they breakfasted on one of the islands which lie at themouth of the Nebraska or Platte River--the largest tributary of theMissouri, and about six hundred miles above its confluence with theMississippi. This broad but shallow stream flows for an immense distancethrough a wide and verdant valley scooped out of boundless prairies. Itdraws its main supplies, by several forks or branches, from the RockyMountains. The mouth of this river is established as the dividing pointbetween the upper and lower Missouri; and the earlier voyagers, intheir toilsome ascent, before the introduction of steamboats, consideredone-half of their labors accomplished when they reached this place. Thepassing of the mouth of the Nebraska, therefore, was equivalent amongboatmen to the crossing of the line among sailors, and was celebratedwith like ceremonials of a rough and waggish nature, practiced upon theuninitiated; among which was the old nautical joke of shaving. The riverdeities, however, like those of the sea, were to be propitiated by abribe, and the infliction of these rude honors to be parried by a treatto the adepts. 

At the mouth of the Nebraska new signs were met with of war partieswhich had recently been in the vicinity. There was the frame of a skincanoe, in which the warriors had traversed the river. At night, also, the lurid reflection of immense fires hung in the sky, showing theconflagration of great tracts of the prairies. Such fires not being madeby hunters so late in the season, it was supposed they were caused bysome wandering war parties. These often take the precaution to set theprairies on fire behind them to conceal their traces from their enemies. This is chiefly done when the party has been unsuccessful, and is on theretreat and apprehensive of pursuit. At such time it is not safe evenfor friends to fall in with them, as they are apt to be in savage humor, and disposed to vent their spleen in capricious outrage. These signs, therefore, of a band of marauders on the prowl, called for some degreeof vigilance on the part of the travellers. 

After passing the Nebraska, the party halted for part of two days on thebank of the river, a little above Papillion Creek, to supply themselveswith a stock of oars and poles from the tough wood of the ash, whichis not met with higher up the Missouri. While the voyagers were thusoccupied, the naturalists rambled over the adjacent country to collectplants. From the summit of a range of bluffs on the opposite side of theriver, about two hundred and fifty feet high, they had one of those vastand magnificent prospects which sometimes unfold themselves in thoseboundless regions. Below them was the Valley of the Missouri, aboutseven miles in breadth, clad in the fresh verdure of spring; enameledwith flowers and interspersed with clumps and groves of noble trees, between which the mighty river poured its turbulent and turbid stream. The interior of the country presented a singular scene; the immensewaste being broken up by innumerable green hills, not above eight feetin height, but extremely steep, and actually pointed at their summits. Along line of bluffs extended for upwards of thirty miles parallel tothe Missouri, with a shallow lake stretching along their base, which hadevidently once formed a bed of the river. The surface of this lake wascovered with aquatic plants, on the broad leaves of which numbers ofwater-snakes, drawn forth by the genial warmth of spring, were baskingin the sunshine. 

On the 2d day of May, at the usual hour of embarking, the camp wasthrown into some confusion by two of the hunters, named Harrington, expressing their intention to abandon the expedition and return home. One of these had joined the party in the preceding autumn, having beenhunting for two years on the Missouri; the other had engaged at St. Louis, in the following March, and had come up from thence with Mr. Hunt. He now declared that he had enlisted merely for the purposeof following his brother, and persuading him to return; having beenenjoined to do so by his mother, whose anxiety had been awakened by theidea of his going on such a wild and distant expedition. 

The loss of two stark hunters and prime riflemen was a serious affair tothe party, for they were approaching the region where they might expecthostilities from the Sioux; indeed, throughout the whole of theirperilous journey, the services of such men would be all important, forlittle reliance was to be placed upon the valor of the Canadians incase of attack. Mr. Hunt endeavored by arguments, expostulations, and entreaties, to shake the determination of the two brothers. Herepresented to them that they were between six and seven hundred milesabove the mouth of the Missouri; that they would have four hundred milesto go before they could reach the habitation of a white man, throughoutwhich they would be exposed to all kinds of risks; since, he declared, if they persisted in abandoning him and breaking their faith, he wouldnot furnish them with a single round of ammunition. All was in vain;they obstinately persisted in their resolution; whereupon, Mr. Hunt, partly incited by indignation, partly by the policy of deterring othersfrom desertion, put his threat into execution, and left them to findtheir way back to the settlements without, as he supposed, a singlebullet or charge of powder. 

The boats now continued their slow and toilsome course for several days, against the current of the river. The late signs of roaming war partiescaused a vigilant watch to be kept up at night when the crews encampedon shore; nor was this vigilance superfluous; for on the night of theseventh instant, there was a wild and fearful yell, and eleven Siouxwarriors, stark naked, with tomahawks in their hands, rushed into thecamp. They were instantly surrounded and seized, whereupon their leadercalled out to his followers to desist from any violence, and pretendedto be perfectly pacific in his intentions. It proved, however, that theywere a part of the war party, the skeleton of whose canoe had been seenat the mouth of the river Platte, and the reflection of whose fires hadbeen descried in the air. They had been disappointed or defeated in theforay, and in their rage and mortification these eleven warriors had"devoted their clothes to the medicine. " This is a desperate act ofIndian braves when foiled in war, and in dread of scoffs and sneers. Insuch case they sometimes threw off their clothes and ornaments, devotethemselves to the Great Spirit, and attempt some reckless exploit withwhich to cover their disgrace. Woe to any defenseless party of white menthat may then fall in their way!

Such was the explanation given by Pierre Dorion, the half-breedinterpreter, of this wild intrusion into the camp; and the party wereso exasperated when appraised of the sanguinary intentions of theprisoners, that they were for shooting them on the spot. Mr. Hunt, however, exerted his usual moderation and humanity, and orderedthat they should be conveyed across the river in one of the boats, threatening them however, with certain death if again caught in anyhostile act. 

On the 10th of May the party arrived at the Omaha (pronounced Omawhaw)village, about eight hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of theMissouri, and encamped in its neighborhood. The village was situatedunder a hill on the bank of the river, and consisted of about eightylodges. These were of a circular and conical form, and about sixteenfeet in diameter; being mere tents of dressed buffalo skins, sewedtogether and stretched on long poles, inclined towards each other so asto cross at about half their height. Thus the naked tops of the polesdiverge in such a manner that, if they were covered with skins like thelower ends, the tent would be shaped like an hour-glass, and present theappearance of one cone inverted on the apex of another. 

The forms of Indian lodges are worthy of attention, each tribe havinga different mode of shaping and arranging them, so that it is easy totell, on seeing a lodge or an encampment at a distance, to what tribethe inhabitants belong. The exterior of the Omaha lodges have often agay and fanciful appearance, being painted with undulating bands ofred or yellow, or decorated with rude figures of horses, deer, andbuffaloes, and with human faces, painted like full moons, four and fivefeet broad. 

The Omahas were once one of the numerous and powerful tribes of theprairies, vying in warlike might and prowess with the Sioux, thePawnees, the Sauks, the Konsas, and the Iatans. Their wars with theSioux, however, had thinned their ranks, and the small-pox in 1802 hadswept off two thirds of their number. At the time of Mr. Hunt's visitthey still boasted about two hundred warriors and hunters, but they arenow fast melting away, and before long, will be numbered among thoseextinguished nations of the west that exist but in tradition. 

In his correspondence with Mr. Astor, from this point of his journey, Mr. Hunt gives a sad account of the Indian tribes bordering on theriver. They were in continual war with each other, and their wars wereof the most harassing kind; consisting, not merely of main conflicts andexpeditions of moment, involving the sackings, burnings, and massacresof towns and villages, but of individual acts of treachery, murder, andcold-blooded cruelty; or of vaunting and foolhardy exploits of singlewarriors, either to avenge some personal wrong, or gain the vainglorioustrophy of a scalp. The lonely hunter, the wandering wayfarer, the poorsquaw cutting wood or gathering corn, was liable to be surprised andslaughtered. In this way tribes were either swept away at once, orgradually thinned out, and savage life was surrounded with constanthorrors and alarms. That the race of red men should diminish fromyear to year, and so few should survive of the numerous nationswhich evidently once peopled the vast regions of the west, is nothingsurprising; it is rather matter of surprise that so many should survive;for the existence of a savage in these parts seems little better than aprolonged and all-besetting death. It is, in fact, a caricature of theboasted romance of feudal times; chivalry in its native and unculturedstate, and knight-errantry run wild. 

In their most prosperous days, the Omahas looked upon themselves as themost powerful and perfect of human beings, and considered all createdthings as made for their peculiar use and benefit. It is this tribe ofwhose chief, the famous Wash-ing-guhsah-ba, or Blackbird, such savageand romantic stories are told. He had died about ten years previous tothe arrival of Mr. Hunt's party, but his name was still mentioned withawe by his people. He was one of the first among the Indian chiefs onthe Missouri to deal with the white traders, and showed great sagacityin levying his royal dues. When a trader arrived in his village, hecaused all his goods to be brought into his lodge and opened. From thesehe selected whatever suited his sovereign pleasure; blankets, tobacco, whiskey, powder, ball, beads, and red paint; and laid the articles onone side, without deigning to give any compensation. Then calling to himhis herald or crier, he would order him to mount on top of the lodgeand summon all the tribe to bring in their peltries, and trade with thewhite man. The lodge would soon be crowded with Indians bringing bear, beaver, otter, and other skins. No one was allowed to dispute the pricesfixed by the white trader upon his articles; who took care to indemnifyhimself five times over for the goods set apart by the chief. In thisway the Blackbird enriched himself, and enriched the white men, andbecame exceedingly popular among the traders of the Missouri. Hispeople, however, were not equally satisfied by a regulation of tradewhich worked so manifestly against them, and began to show signs ofdiscontent. Upon this a crafty and unprincipled trader revealed a secretto the Blackbird, by which he might acquire unbounded sway over hisignorant and superstitious subjects. He instructed him in the poisonousqualities of arsenic, and furnished him with an ample supply ofthat baneful drug. From this time the Blackbird seemed endowed withsupernatural powers, to possess the gift of prophecy, and to holdthe disposal of life and death within his hands. Woe to any one whoquestioned his authority or dared to dispute his commands! The Blackbirdprophesied his death within a certain time, and he had the secret meansof verifying his prophecy. Within the fated period the offender wassmitten with strange and sudden disease, and perished from the face ofthe earth. Every one stood aghast at these multiplied examples of hissuperhuman might, and dreaded to displease so omnipotent and vindictivea being; and the Blackbird enjoyed a wide and undisputed sway. 

It was not, however, by terror alone that he ruled his people; he was awarrior of the first order, and his exploits in arms were the themeof young and old. His career had begun by hardships, having been takenprisoner by the Sioux, in early youth. Under his command, the Omahasobtained great character for military prowess, nor did he permit aninsult or an injury to one of his tribe to pass unrevenged. ThePawnee republicans had inflicted a gross indignity on a favorite anddistinguished Omaha brave. The Blackbird assembled his warriors, ledthem against the Pawnee town, attacked it with irresistible fury, slaughtered a great number of its inhabitants, and burnt it to theground. He waged fierce and bloody war against the Ottoes for manyyears, until peace was effected between them by the mediation of thewhites. Fearless in battle, and fond of signalizing himself, he dazzledhis followers by daring acts. In attacking a Kanza village, he rodesingly round it, loading and discharging his rifle at the inhabitants ashe galloped past them. He kept up in war the same idea of mysteriousand supernatural power. At one time, when pursuing a war party by theirtracks across the prairies, he repeatedly discharged his rifle into theprints made by their feet and by the hoofs of their horses, assuringhis followers that he would thereby cripple the fugitives, so that theywould easily be overtaken. He in fact did overtake them, and destroyedthem almost to a man; and his victory was considered miraculous, bothby friends and foe. By these and similar exploits, he made himselfthe pride and boast of his people, and became popular among them, notwithstanding his death-denouncing fiat. 

With all his savage and terrific qualities, he was sensible of the powerof female beauty, and capable of love. A war party of the Poncas hadmade a foray into the lands of the Omahas, and carried off a number ofwomen and horses. The Blackbird was roused to fury, and took the fieldwith all his braves, swearing to "eat up the Ponca nation"--the Indianthreat of exterminating war. The Poncas, sorely pressed, took refugebehind a rude bulwark of earth; but the Blackbird kept up so galling afire, that he seemed likely to execute his menace. In their extremitythey sent forth a herald, bearing the calumet or pipe of peace, but hewas shot down by order of the Blackbird. Another herald was sent forthin similar guise, but he shared a like fate. The Ponca chief then, as alast hope, arrayed his beautiful daughter in her finest ornaments, and sent her forth with a calumet, to sue for peace. The charms of theIndian maid touched the stern heart of the Blackbird; he accepted thepipe at her hand, smoked it, and from that time a peace took placebetween the Poncas and the Omahas. 

This beautiful damsel, in all probability, was the favorite wife whosefate makes so tragic an incident in the story of the Blackbird. Heryouth and beauty had gained an absolute sway over his rugged heart, sothat he distinguished her above all of his other wives. The habitualgratification of his vindictive impulses, however, had taken away fromhim all mastery over his passions, and rendered him liable to the mostfurious transports of rage. In one of these his beautiful wife had themisfortune to offend him, when suddenly drawing his knife, he laid herdead at his feet with a single blow. 

In an instant his frenzy was at an end. He gazed for a time in mutebewilderment upon his victim; then drawing his buffalo robe over hishead, he sat down beside the corpse, and remained brooding over hiscrime and his loss. Three days elapsed, yet the chief continued silentand motionless; tasting no food, and apparently sleepless. It wasapprehended that he intended to starve himself to death; his peopleapproached him in trembling awe, and entreated him once more to uncoverhis face and be comforted; but he remained unmoved. At length one of hiswarriors brought in a small child, and laying it on the ground, placedthe foot of the Blackbird upon its neck. The heart of the gloomy savagewas touched by this appeal; he threw aside his robe; made an harangueupon what he had done; and from that time forward seemed to have thrownthe load of grief and remorse from his mind. 

He still retained his fatal and mysterious secret, and with it histerrific power; but, though able to deal death to his enemies, he couldnot avert it from himself or his friends. In 1802 the small-pox, thatdreadful pestilence, which swept over the land like a fire over theprairie, made its appearance in the village of the Omahas. The poorsavages saw with dismay the ravages of a malady, loathsome and agonizingin its details, and which set the skill and experience of theirconjurors and medicine men at defiance. In a little while, two thirdsof the population were swept from the face of the earth, and the doom ofthe rest seemed sealed. The stoicism of the warriors was at an end; theybecame wild and desperate; some set fire to the village as a last meansof checking the pestilence; others, in a frenzy of despair, put theirwives and children to death, that they might be spared the agonies of aninevitable disease, and that they might all go to some better country. 

When the general horror and dismay was at its height, the Blackbirdhimself was struck down with the malady. The poor savages, when theysaw their chief in danger, forgot their own miseries, and surroundedhis dying bed. His dominant spirit, and his love for the white men, were evinced in his latest breath, with which he designated his place ofsepulture. It was to be on a hill or promontory, upwards of four hundredfeet in height, overlooking a great extent of the Missouri, from whencehe had been accustomed to watch for the barks of the white men. TheMissouri washes the base of the promontory, and after winding anddoubling in many links and mazes in the plain below, returns to withinnine hundred yards of its starting-place; so that for thirty milesnavigating with sail and oar the voyager finds himself continually nearto this singular promontory as if spell-bound. 

It was the dying command of the Blackbird that his tomb should be onthe summit of this hill, in which he should be interred, seated on hisfavorite horse, that he might overlook his ancient domain, and beholdthe barks of the white men as they came up the river to trade with hispeople. 

His dying orders were faithfully obeyed. His corpse was placed astrideof his war-steed and a mound raised over them on the summit of the hill. On top of the mound was erected a staff, from which fluttered the bannerof the chieftain, and the scalps that he had taken in battle. When theexpedition under Mr. Hunt visited that part of the country, the staffstill remained, with the fragments of the banner; and the superstitiousrite of placing food from time to time on the mound, for the use of thedeceased, was still observed by the Omahas. That rite has since falleninto disuse, for the tribe itself is almost extinct. Yet the hill of theBlackbird continues an object of veneration to the wandering savage, and a landmark to the voyager of the Missouri; and as the civilizedtraveller comes within sight of its spell-bound crest, the mound ispointed out to him from afar, which still incloses the grim skeletons ofthe Indian warrior and his horse. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

 Rumors of Danger From the Sioux Tetons. --Ruthless Character of Those Savages. --Pirates of the Missouri. --Their Affair with Crooks and M'Lellan. --A Trading Expedition Broken Up. -- M'Lellan's Vow of Vengeance. --Uneasiness in the Camp. -- Desertions. -Departure From the Omaha Village. --Meeting With Jones and Carson, two Adventurous Trappers. --Scientific Pursuits of Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall. --Zeal of a Botanist. --Adventure of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian. -- Expedient of the Pocket Compass and Microscope. --A Messenger From Lisa. --Motives for Pressing Forward. 

WHILE Mr. Hunt and his party were sojourning at the village of theOmahas, three Sioux Indians of the Yankton Alma tribe arrived, bringingunpleasant intelligence. They reported that certain bands of the SiouxTetons, who inhabited a region many leagues further up the Missouri, were near at hand, awaiting the approach of the party, with the avowedintention of opposing their progress. 

The Sioux Tetons were at that time a sort of pirates of the Missouri, who considered the well freighted bark of the American trader fair game. They had their own traffic with the British merchants of the Northwest, who brought them regular supplies of merchandise by way of the riverSt. Peter. Being thus independent of the Missouri traders for theirsupplies, they kept no terms with them, but plundered them whenever theyhad an opportunity. It has been insinuated that they were prompted tothese outrages by the British merchants, who wished to keep off allrivals in the Indian trade; but others allege another motive, and onesavoring of a deeper policy. The Sioux, by their intercourse with theBritish traders, had acquired the use of firearms, which had given themvast superiority over other tribes higher up the Missouri. They had madethemselves also, in a manner, factors for the upper tribes, supplyingthem at second hand, and at greatly advanced prices, with goods derivedfrom the white men. The Sioux, therefore, saw with jealousy the Americantraders pushing their way up the Missouri; foreseeing that the uppertribes would thus be relieved from all dependence on them for supplies;nay, what was worse, would be furnished with fire-arms, and elevatedinto formidable rivals. 

We have already alluded to a case in which Mr. Crooks and Mr. M'Lellanhad been interrupted in a trading voyage by these ruffians of the river, and, as it is in some degree connected with circumstances hereafter tobe related, we shall specify it more particularly. 

About two years before the time of which we are treating, Crooks andM'Lellan were ascending the river in boats with a party of about fortymen, bound on one of their trading expeditions to the upper tribes. Inone of the bends of the river, where the channel made a deep curve underimpending banks, they suddenly heard yells and shouts above them, andbeheld the cliffs overhead covered with armed savages. It was a bandof Sioux warriors, upwards of six hundred strong. They brandished theirweapons in a menacing manner, and ordered the boats to turn back andland lower down the river. There was no disputing these commands, forthey had the power to shower destruction upon the white men, withoutrisk to themselves. Crooks and M'Lellan, therefore, turned back withfeigned alacrity, and, landing, had an interview with the Sioux. The latter forbade them, under pain of exterminating hostility, fromattempting to proceed up the river, but offered to trade peacefully withthem if they would halt where they were. The party, being principallycomposed of voyageurs, was too weak to contend with so superior aforce, and one so easily augmented; they pretended, therefore, to complycheerfully with their arbitrary dictation, and immediately proceeded tocut down trees and erect a trading house. The warrior band departed fortheir village, which was about twenty miles distant, to collect objectsof traffic; they left six or eight of their number, however, to keepwatch upon the white men, and scouts were continually passing to and frowith intelligence. 

Mr. Crooks saw that it would be impossible to prosecute his voyagewithout the danger of having his boats plundered, and a great part ofhis men massacred; he determined, however, not to be entirely frustratedin the objects of his expedition. While he continued, therefore, withgreat apparent earnestness and assiduity, the construction of thetrading house, he despatched the hunters and trappers of his party ina canoe, to make their way up the river to the original place ofdestination, there to busy themselves in trapping and collectingpeltries, and to await his arrival at some future period. 

As soon as the detachment had had sufficient time to ascend beyond thehostile country of the Sioux, Mr. Crooks suddenly broke up his feignedtrading establishment, embarked his men and effects, and, after givingthe astonished rear-guard of savages a galling and indignant message totake to their countrymen, pushed down the river with all speed, sparingneither oar nor paddle, day nor night, until fairly beyond the swoop ofthese river hawks. 

What increased the irritation of Messrs. Crooks and M'Lellan, at thismortifying check to their gainful enterprise, was the information that arival trader was at the bottom of it; the Sioux, it is said, having beeninstigated to this outrage by Mr. Manuel Lisa, the leading partner andagent of the Missouri Fur Company, already mentioned. This intelligence, whether true or false, so roused the fiery temper of M'Lellan, thathe swore, if ever he fell in with Lisa in the Indian country, he wouldshoot him on the spot; a mode of redress perfectly in unison withthe character of the man, and the code of honor prevalent beyond thefrontier. 

If Crooks and M'Lellan had been exasperated by the insolent conductof the Sioux Tetons, and the loss which it had occasioned, thosefreebooters had been no less indignant at being outwitted by the whitemen, and disappointed of their anticipated gains, and it was apprehendedthey would be particularly hostile against the present expedition, whenthey should learn that these gentlemen were engaged in it. 

All these causes of uneasiness were concealed as much as possible fromthe Canadian voyageurs, lest they should become intimidated; it wasimpossible, however, to prevent the rumors brought by the Indians fromleaking out, and they became subjects of gossiping and exaggeration. The chief of the Omahas, too, on returning from a hunting excursion, reported that two men had been killed some distance above, by a bandof Sioux. This added to the fears that already began to be excited. The voyageurs pictured to themselves bands of fierce warriors stationedalong each bank of the river, by whom they would be exposed to be shotdown in their boats: or lurking hordes, who would set on them at night, and massacre them in their encampments. Some lost heart, and proposed toreturn, rather than fight their way, and, in a manner, run the gauntletthrough the country of these piratical marauders. In fact, three mendeserted while at this village. Luckily, their place was supplied bythree others who happened to be there, and who were prevailed on to jointhe expedition by promises of liberal pay, and by being fitted out andequipped in complete style. 

The irresolution and discontent visible among some of his people, arising at times almost to mutiny, and the occasional desertions whichtook place while thus among friendly tribes, and within reach of thefrontiers, added greatly to the anxieties of Mr. Hunt, and rendered himeager to press forward and leave a hostile tract behind him, so that itwould be as perilous to return as to keep on, and no one would dare todesert. 

Accordingly, on the 15th of May he departed from the village of theOmahas, and set forward towards the country of the formidable SiouxTetons. For the first five days they had a fair and fresh breeze, andthe boats made good progress. The wind then came ahead, and theriver beginning to rise, and to increase in rapidity, betokened thecommencement of the annual flood, caused by the melting of the snow onthe Rocky Mountains, and the vernal rains of the upper prairies. 

As they were now entering a region where foes might be lying in waiton either bank, it was determined, in hunting for game, to confinethemselves principally to the islands, which sometimes extend toconsiderable length, and are beautifully wooded, affording abundantpasturage and shade. On one of these they killed three buffaloes and twoelks, and halting on the edge of a beautiful prairie, made a sumptuoushunter's repast. They had not long resumed their boats and pulled alongthe river banks when they descried a canoe approaching, navigated bytwo men, whom, to their surprise, they ascertained to be white men. They proved to be two of those strange and fearless wanderers of thewilderness, the trappers. Their names were Benjamin Jones and AlexanderCarson. They had been for two years past hunting and trapping near thehead of the Missouri, and were thus floating for thousands of miles ina cockle-shell, down a turbulent stream, through regions infested bysavage tribes, yet apparently as easy and unconcerned as if navigatingsecurely in the midst of civilization. 

The acquisition of two such hardy, experienced, and dauntless hunterswas peculiarly desirable at the present moment. They needed but littlepersuasion. The wilderness is the home of the trapper; like the sailor, he cares but little to which point of the compass he steers; and Jonesand Carson readily abandoned their voyage to St. Louis, and turned theirfaces towards the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific. 

The two naturalists, Mr. Bradbury and Mr. Nuttall, who had joinedthe expedition at St. Louis, still accompanied it, and pursued theirresearches on all occasions. Mr. Nuttall seems to have been exclusivelydevoted to his scientific pursuits. He was a zealous botanist, andall his enthusiasm was awakened at beholding a new world, as it were, opening upon him in the boundless prairies, clad in the vernal andvariegated robe of unknown flowers. Whenever the boats landed at mealtimes, or for any temporary purpose, he would spring on shore, and setout on a hunt for new specimens. Every plant or flower of a rare orunknown species was eagerly seized as a prize. Delighted with thetreasures spreading themselves out before him, he went groping andstumbling along among the wilderness of sweets, forgetful of everythingbut his immediate pursuit, and had often to be sought after when theboats were about to resume their course. At such times he would be foundfar off in the prairies, or up the course of some petty stream, ladenwith plants of all kinds. 

The Canadian voyageurs, who are a class of people that know nothing outof their immediate line, and with constitutional levity make a jest ofanything they cannot understand, were extremely puzzled by this passionfor collecting what they considered mere useless weeds. When they sawthe worthy botanist coming back heavy laden with his specimens, andtreasuring them up as carefully as a miser would his hoard, they usedto make merry among themselves at his expense, regarding him as somewhimsical kind of madman. 

Mr. Bradbury was less exclusive in his tastes and habits, and combinedthe hunter and sportsman with the naturalist. He took his rifle or hisfowling-piece with him in his geological researches, conformed to thehardy and rugged habits of the men around him, and of course gainedfavor in their eyes. He had a strong relish for incident and adventure, was curious in observing savage manners, and savage life, and ready tojoin any hunting or other excursion. Even now, that the expedition wasproceeding through a dangerous neighborhood, he could not check hispropensity to ramble. Having observed, on the evening of the 22d ofMay, that the river ahead made a great bend which would take upthe navigation of the following day, he determined to profit bythe circumstance. On the morning of the 23d, therefore, instead ofembarking, he filled his shot-pouch with parched corn, for provisions, and set off to cross the neck on foot and meet the boats in theafternoon at the opposite side of the bend. Mr. Hunt felt uneasy athis venturing thus alone, and reminded him that he was in an enemy'scountry; but Mr. Bradbury made light of the danger, and started offcheerily upon his ramble. His day was passed pleasantly in traversinga beautiful tract, making botanical and geological researches, andobserving the habits of an extensive village of prairie dogs, at whichhe made several ineffectual shots, without considering the risk he ranof attracting the attention of any savages that might be lurking in theneighborhood. In fact he had totally forgotten the Sioux Tetons, andall the other perils of the country, when, about the middle of theafternoon, as he stood near the river bank, and was looking out for theboat, he suddenly felt a hand laid on his shoulder. Starting and turninground, he beheld a naked savage with a bow bent, and the arrow pointedat his breast. In an instant his gun was leveled and his hand upon thelock. The Indian drew his bow still further, but forbore to launch theshaft. Mr. Bradbury, with admirable presence of mind, reflected that thesavage, if hostile in his intents, would have shot him without givinghim a chance of defense; he paused, therefore, and held out his hand. The other took it in sign of friendship, and demanded in the Osagelanguage whether he was a Big Knife, or American. He answered in theaffirmative, and inquired whether the other were a Sioux. To his greatrelief he found that he was a Ponca. By his time two other Indians camerunning up, and all three laid hold of Mr. Bradbury and seemed disposedto compel him to go off with them among the hills. He resisted, andsitting down on a sand hill contrived to amuse them with a pocketcompass. When the novelty of this was exhausted they again seized him, but he now produced a small microscope. This new wonder again fixed theattention of the savages, who have more curiosity than it has been thecustom to allow them. While thus engaged, one of them suddenly leaped upand gave a war-whoop. The hand of the hardy naturalist was again on hisgun, and he was prepared to make battle, when the Indian pointed downthe river and revealed the true cause of his yell. It was the mast ofone of the boats appearing above the low willows which bordered thestream. Mr. Bradbury felt infinitely relieved by the sight. The Indianson their part now showed signs of apprehension, and were disposed to runaway; but he assured them of good treatment and something to drink ifthey would accompany him on board of the boats. They lingered for atime, but disappeared before the boats came to land. 

On the following morning they appeared at camp accompanied by several oftheir tribe. With them came also a white man, who announced himself asa messenger bearing missives for Mr. Hunt. In fact he brought a letterfrom Mr. Manuel Lisa, partner and agent of the Missouri Fur Company. Ashas already been mentioned, this gentleman was going in search ofMr. Henry and his party, who had been dislodged from the forks of theMissouri by the Blackfeet Indians, and had shifted his post somewherebeyond the Rocky Mountains. Mr. Lisa had left St. Louis three weeksafter Mr. Hunt, and having heard of the hostile intentions of the Sioux, had made the greatest exertions to overtake him, that they might passthrough the dangerous part of the river together. He had twenty stoutoarsmen in his service and they plied their oars so vigorously, that hehad reached the Omaha village just four days after the departure of Mr. Hunt. From this place he despatched the messenger in question, trustingto his overtaking the barges as they toiled up against the stream, andwere delayed by the windings of the river. The purport of his letter wasto entreat Mr. Hunt to wait until he could come up with him, that theymight unite their forces and be a protection to each other in theirperilous course through the country of the Sioux. In fact, as it wasafterwards ascertained, Lisa was apprehensive that Mr. Hunt would do himsome ill office with the Sioux band, securing his own passage throughtheir country by pretending that he, with whom they were accustomedto trade, was on his way to them with a plentiful supply of goods. Hefeared, too, that Crooks and M'Lellan would take this opportunity toretort upon him the perfidy which they accused him of having used, twoyears previously, among these very Sioux. In this respect, however, hedid them signal injustice. There was no such thing as court design ortreachery in their thought; but M'Lellan, when he heard that Lisa was onhis way up the river, renewed his open threat of shooting him the momenthe met him on Indian land. 

The representations made by Crooks and M'Lellan of the treachery theyhad experienced, or fancied, on the part of Lisa, had great weight withMr. Hunt, especially when he recollected the obstacles that had beenthrown in his way by that gentleman at St. Louis. He doubted, therefore, the fair dealing of Lisa, and feared that, should they enter the Siouxcountry together, the latter might make use of his influence with thattribe, as he had in the case of Crooks and M'Lellan, and instigate themto oppose his progress up the river. 

He sent back, therefore, an answer calculated to beguile Lisa, assuringhim that he would wait for him at the Poncas village, which was but alittle distance in advance; but, no sooner had the messenger departed, than he pushed forward with all diligence, barely stopping at thevillage to procure a supply of dried buffalo meat, and hastened to leavethe other party as far behind as possible, thinking there was less to beapprehended from the open hostility of Indian foes than from the quietstrategy of an Indian trader. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

 Camp Gossip. --Deserters. --Recruits. --Kentucky Hunters. --A Veteran Woodman. --Tidings of Mr. Henry. -Danger From the Blackfeet. --Alteration of Plans. --Scenery of the River. -- Buffalo Roads. --Iron Ore. --Country of the Sioux. --A Land of Danger. -apprehensions of the Voyageurs. --Indian Scouts. -- Threatened Hostilities. --A Council of War. --An Array of Battle. --A Parley. --The Pipe of Peace. --Speech-Making. 

IT was about noon when the party left the Poncas village, about a leaguebeyond which they passed the mouth of the Quicourt, or Rapid River(called, in the original French, l'Eau Qui Court). After havingproceeded some distance further, they landed, and encamped for thenight. In the evening camp, the voyageurs gossiped, as usual, over theevents of the day; and especially over intelligence picked up among thePoncas. These Indians had confirmed the previous reports of the hostileintentions of the Sioux, and had assured them that five tribes, orbands, of that fierce nation were actually assembled higher up theriver, and waiting to cut them off. This evening gossip, and theterrific stories of Indian warfare to which it gave rise, produced astrong effect upon the imagination of the irresolute; and in the morningit was discovered that the two men, who had joined the party at theOmaha village, and been so bounteously fitted out, had deserted in thecourse of the night, carrying with them all their equipments. As it wasknown that one of them could not swim, it was hoped that the banks ofthe Quicourt River would bring them to a halt. A general pursuit wastherefore instituted, but without success. 

On the following morning (May 26th), as they were all on shore, breakfasting on one of the beautiful banks of the river, theyobserved two canoes descending along the opposite side. By the aid ofspy-glasses, they ascertained that there were two white men in one ofthe canoes, and one in the other. A gun was discharged, which called theattention of the voyagers, who crossed over. They proved to be the threeKentucky hunters, of the true "dreadnought" stamp. Their names wereEdward Robinson, John Hoback, and Jacob Rizner. Robinson was a veteranbackwoodsman, sixty-six years of age. He had been one of the firstsettlers of Kentucky, and engaged in many of the conflicts of theIndians on "the Bloody Ground. " In one of these battles he had beenscalped, and he still wore a handkerchief bound round his head toprotect the part. These men had passed several years in the upperwilderness. They had been in the service of the Missouri Company underMr. Henry, and had crossed the Rocky Mountains with him in the precedingyear, when driven from his post on the Missouri by the hostilities ofthe Blackfeet. After crossing the mountains, Mr. Henry had establishedhimself on one of the head branches of the Columbia River. There theyhad remained with him some months, hunting and trapping, until, havingsatisfied their wandering propensities, they felt disposed to return tothe families and comfortable homes which they had left in Kentucky. Theyhad accordingly made their way back across the mountains, and downthe rivers, and were in full career for St. Louis, when thus suddenlyinterrupted. The sight of a powerful party of traders, trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, well armed and equipped, furnished at allpoints, in high health and spirits, and banqueting lustily on thegreen margin of the river, was a spectacle equally stimulating to theseveteran backwoodsmen with the glorious array of a campaigning army toan old soldier; but when they learned the grand scope and extent of theenterprise in hand, it was irresistible; homes and families and all thecharms of green Kentucky vanished from their thoughts; they cast loosetheir canoes to drift down the stream, and joyfully enlisted in the bandof adventurers. They engaged on similar terms with some of the otherhunters. The company was to fit them out, and keep them supplied withthe requisite equipments and munitions, and they were to yield one halfof the produce of their hunting and trapping. 

The addition of three such staunch recruits was extremely acceptableat this dangerous part of the river. The knowledge of the country whichthey had acquired, also, in their journeys and hunting excursions alongthe rivers and among the Rocky Mountains was all important; in fact, the information derived from them induced Mr. Hunt to alter his futurecourse. He had hitherto intended to proceed by the route taken by Lewisand Clarke in their famous exploring expedition, ascending he Missourito its forks, and thence going, by land, across the mountains. These meninformed him, however, that, on taking that course he would have to passthrough the country invested by the savage tribe of the Blackfeet, andwould be exposed to their hostilities; they being, as has already beenobserved, exasperated to deadly animosity against the whites, on accountof the death of one of their tribe by the hand of Captain Lewis. Theyadvised him rather to pursue a route more to the southward, beingthe same by which they had returned. This would carry them over themountains about where the head-waters of the Platte and the Yellowstonetake their rise, at a place much more easy and practicable than thatwhere Lewis and Clarke had crossed. In pursuing this course, also, hewould pass through a country abounding with game, where he would have abetter chance of procuring a constant supply of provisions than by theother route, and would run less risk of molestation from the Blackfeet. Should he adopt this advice, it would be better for him to abandon theriver at the Arickara town, at which he would arrive in the course of afew days. As the Indians at that town possessed horses in abundance, he might purchase a sufficient number of them for his great journeyoverland, which would commence at that place. 

After reflecting on this advice, and consulting with his associates, Mr. Hunt came to the determination to follow the route thus pointed out, towhich the hunters engaged to pilot him. 

The party continued their voyage with delightful May weather. Theprairies bordering on the river were gayly painted with innumerableflowers, exhibiting the motley confusion of colors of a Turkey carpet. The beautiful islands, also, on which they occasionally halted, presented the appearance of mingled grove and garden. The trees wereoften covered with clambering grapevines in blossom, which perfumedthe air. Between the stately masses of the groves were grassy lawns andglades, studded with flowers, or interspersed with rose-bushes in fullbloom. These islands were often the resort of the buffalo, the elk, and the antelope, who had made innumerable paths among the trees andthickets, which had the effect of the mazy walks and alleys of parks andshrubberies. Sometimes, where the river passed between high banks andbluffs, the roads made by the tramp of buffaloes for many ages alongthe face of the heights, looked like so many well-travelled highways. At other places the banks were banded with great veins of iron ore, laidbare by the abrasion of the river. At one place the course of the riverwas nearly in a straight line for about fifteen miles. The banks slopedgently to its margin, without a single tree, but bordered with grass andherbage of a vivid green. Along each bank, for the whole fifteen miles, extended a stripe, one hundred yards in breadth, of a deep rusty brown, indicating an inexhaustible bed of iron, through the center of which theMissouri had worn its way. Indications of the continuance of this bedwere afterwards observed higher up the river. It is, in fact, one of themineral magazines which nature has provided in the heart of this vastrealm of fertility, and which, in connection with the immense beds ofcoal on the same river, seem garnered up as the elements of the futurewealth and power of the mighty West. 

The sight of these mineral treasures greatly excited the curiosityof Mr. Bradbury, and it was tantalizing to him to be checked in hisscientific researches, and obliged to forego his usual rambles on shore;but they were now entering the fated country of the Sioux Tetons, inwhich it was dangerous to wander about unguarded. 

This country extends for some days' journey along the river, andconsists of vast prairies, here and there diversified by swelling hills, and cut up by ravines, the channels of turbid streams in the rainyseasons, but almost destitute of water during the heats of summer. Hereand there on the sides of the hills, or along the alluvial borders andbottoms of the ravines, are groves and skirts of forest: but for themost part the country presented to the eye a boundless waste, coveredwith herbage, but without trees. 

The soil of this immense region is strongly impregnated with sulphur, copperas, alum, and glauber salts; its various earths impart a deeptinge to the streams which drain it, and these, with the crumbling ofthe banks along the Missouri, give to the waters of that river much ofthe coloring matter with which they are clouded. 

Over this vast tract the roving bands of the Sioux Tetons hold theirvagrant sway, subsisting by the chase of the buffalo, the elk, thedeer, and the antelope, and waging ruthless warfare with other wanderingtribes. 

As the boats made their way up the stream bordered by this land ofdanger, many of the Canadian voyageurs, whose fears had been awakened, would regard with a distrustful eye the boundless waste extending oneach side. All, however, was silent, and apparently untenanted bya human being. Now and then a herd of deer would be seen feedingtranquilly among the flowery herbage, or a line of buffaloes, like acaravan on its march, moving across the distant profile of the prairie. The Canadians, however, began to apprehend an ambush in every thicket, and to regard the broad, tranquil plain as a sailor eyes some shallowand perfidious sea, which, though smooth and safe to the eye, concealsthe lurking rock or treacherous shoal. The very name of a Sioux becamea watchword of terror. Not an elk, a wolf, or any other animal, couldappear on the hills, but the boats resounded with exclamations from stemto stern, "voila les Sioux! voila les Sioux!" (there are the Sioux! thereare the Sioux!) Whenever it was practicable, the night encampment was onsome island in the center of the stream. 

On the morning of the 31st of May, as the travellers were breakfastingon the right bank of the river, the usual alarm was given, but with morereason, as two Indians actually made their appearance on a bluff on theopposite or northern side, and harangued them in a loud voice. As itwas impossible at that distance to distinguish what they said, Mr. Hunt, after breakfast, crossed the river with Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, and advanced boldly to converse with them, while the rest remainedwatching in mute suspense the movements of the parties. As soon as Mr. Hunt landed, one of the Indians disappeared behind the hill, but shortlyreappeared on horseback, and went scouring off across the heights. Mr. Hunt held some conference with the remaining savage, and then recrossedthe river to his party. 

These two Indians proved to be spies or scouts of a large war partyencamped about a league off, and numbering two hundred and eightylodges, or about six hundred warriors, of three different tribesof Sioux; the Yangtons Ahna, the Tetons Bois-brule, and the TetonsMin-na-kine-azzo. They expected daily to be reinforced by two othertribes, and had been waiting eleven days for the arrival of Mr. Hunt'sparty, with a determination to oppose their progress up the river; beingresolved to prevent all trade of the white men with their enemies theArickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees. The Indian who had galloped off onhorseback had gone to give notice of the approach of the party, so thatthey might now look out for some fierce scenes with those piraticalsavages, of whom they had received so many formidable accounts. 

The party braced up their spirits to the encounter, and reembarking, pulled resolutely up the stream. An island for some time intervenedbetween them and the opposite side of the river; but on clearing theupper end, they came in full view of the hostile shore. There was aridge of hills down which the savages were pouring in great numbers, some on horseback, and some on foot. Reconnoitering them with the aid ofglasses, they perceived that they were all in warlike array, paintedand decorated for battle. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and a fewshort carbines, and most of them had round shields. Altogether they hada wild and gallant appearance, and, taking possession of a point whichcommanded the river, ranged themselves along the bank as if prepared todispute their passage. 

At sight of this formidable front of war, Mr. Hunt and his companionsheld counsel together. It was plain that the rumors they had heard werecorrect, and the Sioux were determined to oppose their progress by forceof arms. To attempt to elude them and continue along the river was outof the question. The strength of the mid-current was too violent to bewithstood, and the boats were obliged to ascend along the river banks. These banks were often high and perpendicular, affording the savagesfrequent stations, from whence, safe themselves, and almost unseen, theymight shower down their missiles upon the boats below, and retreatat will, without danger from pursuit. Nothing apparently remained, therefore, but to fight or turn back. The Sioux far outnumbered them, it is true, but their own party was about sixty strong, well armed andsupplied with ammunition; and, beside their guns and rifles, they hada swivel and two howitzers mounted in the boats. Should they succeed inbreaking this Indian force by one vigorous assault, it was likely theywould be deterred from making any future attack of consequence. Thefighting alternative was, therefore, instantly adopted, and the boatspulled to shore nearly opposite to the hostile force. Here the arms wereall examined and put in order. The swivel and howitzers were then loadedwith powder and discharged, to let the savages know by the report howformidably they were provided. The noise echoed along the shores of theriver, and must have startled the warriors who were only accustomed tosharp reports of rifles. The same pieces were then loaded with asmany bullets as they would probably bear; after which the whole partyembarked, and pulled across the river. The Indians remained watchingthem in silence, their painted forms and visages glaring in the sun, andtheir feathers fluttering in the breeze. The poor Canadians eyed themwith rueful glances, and now and then a fearful ejaculation escapedthem. "Parbleu! this is a sad scrape we are in, brother!" one wouldmutter to the next oarsman. "Aye, aye!" the other would reply, "we arenot going to a wedding, my friend!"

When the boats arrived within rifle-shot, the hunters and other fightingpersonages on board seized their weapons, and prepared for action. As they rose to fire, a confusion took place among the savages. Theydisplayed their buffalo robes, raised them with both hands above theirheads, and then spread them before them on the ground. At sight ofthis, Pierre Dorion eagerly cried out to the party not to fire, asthis movement was a peaceful signal, and an invitation to a parley. Immediately about a dozen of the principal warriors, separating fromthe rest, descended to the edge of the river, lighted a fire, seatedthemselves in a semicircle round it, and, displaying the calumet, invited the party to land. Mr. Hunt now called a council of the partnerson board of his boat. The question was, whether to trust to theamicable overtures of these ferocious people? It was determined in theaffirmative; for, otherwise, there was no alternative but to fight them. The main body of the party were ordered to remain on board of theboats, keeping within shot and prepared to fire in case of any signsof treachery; while Mr. Hunt and the other partners (M'Kenzie, Crooks, Miller, and M'Lellan) proceeded to land, accompanied by the interpreterand Mr. Bradbury. The chiefs, who awaited them on the margin of theriver, remained seated in their semicircle, without stirring a limbor moving a muscle, motionless as so many statues. Mr. Hunt and hiscompanions advanced without hesitation, and took their seats on the sandso as to complete the circle. The band of warriors who lined thebanks above stood looking down in silent groups and clusters, someostentatiously equipped and decorated, others entirely naked butfantastically painted, and all variously armed. 

The pipe of peace was now brought forward with due ceremony. The bowlwas of a species of red stone resembling porphyry; the stem was six feetin length, decorated with tufts of horse-hair dyed red. The pipe-bearerstepped within the circle, lighted the pipe, held it towards the sun, then towards the different points of the compass, after which he handedit to the principal chief. The latter smoked a few whiffs, then, holdingthe head of the pipe in his hand, offered the other end to Mr. Hunt, and to each one successively in the circle. When all had smoked, itwas considered that an assurance of good faith and amity had beeninterchanged. Mr. Hunt now made a speech in French, which wasinterpreted as he proceeded by Pierre Dorion. He informed the Sioux ofthe real object of the expedition of himself and his companions, whichwas, not to trade with any of the tribes up the river, but to cross themountains to the great salt lake in the west, in search of some of theirbrothers, whom they had not seen for eleven months. That he had heard ofthe intention of the Sioux to oppose his passage, and was prepared, asthey might see, to effect it at all hazards; nevertheless, his feelingstowards the Sioux were friendly, in proof of which he had brought thema present of tobacco and corn. So saying, he ordered about fifteencarottes of tobacco, and as many bags of corn, to be brought from theboat and laid in a heap near the council fire. 

The sight of these presents mollified the chieftain, who had, doubtless, been previously rendered considerate by the resolute conduct of thewhite men, the judicious disposition of their little armament, thecompleteness of their equipments, and the compact array of battle whichthey presented. He made a speech in reply, in which he stated the objectof their hostile assemblage, which had been merely to prevent suppliesof arms and ammunition from going to the Arickaras, Mandans, andMinatarees, with whom they were at war; but being now convinced that theparty were carrying no supplies of the kind, but merely proceeding inquest of their brothers beyond the mountains, they would not impede themin their voyage. He concluded by thanking them for their present, andadvising them to encamp on the opposite side of the river, as he hadsome young men among his warriors for whose discretion he could not beanswerable, and who might be troublesome. 

Here ended the conference: they all arose, shook hands, and parted. Mr. Hunt and his companions re-embarked, and the boats proceeded on theircourse unmolested. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

 The Great Bend of the Missouri--Crooks and M'Lellan Meet With Two of Their Indian Opponents--Wanton Outrage of a White Man the Cause of Indian Hostility--Dangers and Precautions. -An Indian War Party. --Dangerous Situation of Mr. Hunt. --A Friendly Encampment. --Feasting and Dancing. -- Approach of Manuel Lisa and His Party--. A Grim Meeting Between Old Rivals. --Pierre Dorion in a Fury. --A Burst of chivalry. 

ON the afternoon of the following day (June 1st) they arrived atthe great bend, where the river winds for about thirty miles round acircular peninsula, the neck of which is not above two thousand yardsacross. On the succeeding morning, at an early hour, they descried twoIndians standing on a high bank of the river, waving and spreading theirbuffalo robes in signs of amity. They immediately pulled to shore andlanded. On approaching the savages, however, the latter showed evidentsymptoms of alarm, spreading out their arms horizontally, according totheir mode of supplicating clemency. The reason was soon explained. Theyproved to be two chiefs of the very war party that had brought Messrs. Crooks and M'Lellan to a stand two years before, and obliged themto escape down the river. They ran to embrace these gentlemen, as ifdelighted to meet with them; yet they evidently feared some retaliationof their past misconduct, nor were they quite at ease until the pipe ofpeace had been smoked. 

Mr. Hunt having been informed that the tribe to which these men belongedhad killed three white men during the preceding summer, reproached themwith the crime, and demanded their reasons for such savage hostility. "We kill white men, " replied one of the chiefs, "because white menkill us. That very man, " added he, pointing to Carson, one of the newrecruits, "killed one of our brothers last summer. The three white menwere slain to avenge his death. "

Their chief was correct in his reply. Carson admitted that, being with aparty of Arickaras on the banks of the Missouri, and seeing a war partyof Sioux on the opposite side, he had fired with his rifle across. Itwas a random shot, made without much expectation of effect, for theriver was full half a mile in breadth. Unluckily it brought down aSioux warrior, for whose wanton destruction threefold vengeance had beentaken, as has been stated. In this way outrages are frequently committedon the natives by thoughtless or mischievous white men; the Indiansretaliate according to a law of their code, which requires bloodfor blood; their act, of what with them is pious vengeance, resoundsthroughout the land, and is represented as wanton and unprovoked;the neighborhood is roused to arms; a war ensues, which ends in thedestruction of half the tribe, the ruin of the rest, and their expulsionfrom their hereditary homes. Such is too often the real history ofIndian warfare, which in general is traced up only to some vindictiveact of a savage; while the outrage of the scoundrel white man thatprovoked it is sunk in silence. 

The two chiefs, having smoked their pipe of peace and received a fewpresents, departed well satisfied. In a little while two others appearedon horseback, and rode up abreast of the boats. They had seen thepresents given to their comrades, but were dissatisfied with them, andcame after the boats to ask for more. Being somewhat peremptory andinsolent in their demands, Mr. Hunt gave them a flat refusal, andthreatened, if they or any of their tribes followed him with similardemands, to treat them as enemies. They turned and rode off in a furiouspassion. As he was ignorant what force these chiefs might have behindthe hills, and as it was very possible they might take advantage of somepass of the river to attack the boats, Mr. Hunt called all stragglers onboard and prepared for such emergency. It was agreed that the largeboat commanded by Mr. Hunt should ascend along the northeast side ofthe river, and the three smaller boats along the south side. By thisarrangement each party would command a view of the opposite heightsabove the heads and out of sight of their companions, and could givethe alarm should they perceive any Indians lurking there. The signal ofalarm was to be two shots fired in quick succession. 

The boats proceeded for the greater part of the day without seeing anysigns of an enemy. About four o'clock in the afternoon the large boat, commanded by Mr. Hunt, came to where the river was divided by a longsand-bar, which apparently, however, left a sufficient channel betweenit and the shore along which they were advancing. He kept up thischannel, therefore, for some distance, until the water proved tooshallow for the boat. It was necessary, therefore, to put about, returndown the channel, and pull round the lower end of the sand-bar into themain stream. Just as he had given orders to this effect to his men, twosignal guns were fired from the boats on the opposite side of the river. At the same moment, a file of savage warriors was observed pouring downfrom the impending bank, and gathering on the shore at the lower endof the bar. They were evidently a war party, being armed with bows andarrows, battle clubs and carbines, and round bucklers of buffalo hide, and their naked bodies were painted with black and white stripes. Thenatural inference was, that they belonged to the two tribes of Siouxwhich had been expected by the great war party, and that they had beenincited to hostility by the two chiefs who had been enraged by therefusal and the menace of Mr. Hunt. Here then was a fearful predicament. Mr. Hunt and his crew seemed caught, as it were, in a trap. The Indians, to a number of about a hundred, had already taken possession of a pointnear which the boat would have to pass: others kept pouring down thebank, and it was probable that some would remain posted on the top ofthe height. 

The hazardous situation of Mr. Hunt was perceived by those in the otherboats, and they hastened to his assistance. They were at some distanceabove the sand-bar, however, and on the opposite side of the river, andsaw, with intense anxiety, the number of savages continually augmenting, at the lower end of the channel, so that the boat would be exposed to afearful attack before they could render it any assistance. Their anxietyincreased, as they saw Mr. Hunt and his party descending the channeland dauntlessly approaching the point of danger; but it suddenly changedinto surprise on beholding the boat pass close by the savage hordeunmolested, and steer out safely into the broad river. 

The next moment the whole band of warriors was in motion. They ran alongthe bank until they were opposite to the boats, then throwing by theirweapons and buffalo robes, plunged into the river, waded and swam offto the boats and surrounded them in crowds, seeking to shake hands withevery individual on board; for the Indians have long since found this tobe the white man's token of amity, and they carried it to an extreme. 

All uneasiness was now at an end. The Indians proved to be a war partyof Arickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees, consisting of three hundredwarriors, and bound on a foray against the Sioux. Their war plans wereabandoned for the present, and they determined to return to the Arickaratown, where they hoped to obtain from the white men arms and ammunitionthat would enable them to take the field with advantage over theirenemies. 

The boats now sought the first convenient place for encamping. The tentswere pitched; the warriors fixed their camp at about a hundred yardsdistant; provisions were furnished from the boats sufficient for allparties; there was hearty though rude feasting in both camps, and in theevening the red warriors entertained their white friends with dances andsongs, that lasted until after midnight. 

On the following morning (July 3) the travellers re-embarked, and tooka temporary leave of their Indian friends, who intended to proceedimmediately for the Arickara town, where they expected to arrive inthree days, long before the boats could reach there. Mr. Hunt had notproceeded far before the chief came galloping along the shore and madesigns for a parley. He said, his people could not go home satisfiedunless they had something to take with them to prove that they had metwith the white men. Mr. Hunt understood the drift of the speech, andmade the chief a present of a cask of powder, a bag of balls, and threedozen of knives, with which he was highly pleased. While the chief wasreceiving these presents an Indian came running along the shore, andannounced that a boat, filled with white men, was coming up the river. This was by no means agreeable tidings to Mr. Hunt, who correctlyconcluded it to be the boat of Mr. Manuel Lisa; and he was vexed to findthat alert and adventurous trader upon his heels, whom he hoped tohave out-maneuvered, and left far behind. Lisa, however, was too muchexperienced in the wiles of Indian trade to be lulled by the promise ofwaiting for him at the Poncas village; on the contrary, he had allowedhimself no repose, and had strained every nerve to overtake the rivalparty, and availing himself of the moonlight, had even sailed during aconsiderable part of the night. In this he was partly prompted by hisapprehensions of the Sioux, having met a boat which had probably passedMr. Hunt's party in the night, and which had been fired into by thesesavages. 

On hearing that Lisa was so near at hand, Mr. Hunt perceived that it wasuseless to attempt any longer to evade him; after proceeding a few milesfurther, therefore, he came to a halt and waited for him to come up. Ina little while the barge of Lisa made its appearance. It came sweepinggently up the river, manned by its twenty stout oarsmen, and armed bya swivel mounted at the bow. The whole number on board amounted totwenty-six men: among whom was Mr. Henry Breckenridge, then a young, enterprising man; who was a mere passenger, tempted by notions ofcuriosity to accompany Mr. Lisa. He has since made himself known byvarious writings, among which may be noted a narrative of this veryvoyage. 

The approach of Lisa, while it was regarded with uneasiness by Mr. Hunt, roused the ire of M'Lellan; who, calling to mind old grievances, beganto look round for his rifle, as if he really intended to carry histhreat into execution and shoot him on the spot; and it was with somedifficulty that Mr. Hunt was enabled to restrain his ire, and prevent ascene of outraged confusion. 

The meeting between the two leaders, thus mutually distrustful, couldnot be very cordial: and as to Messrs. Crooks and M'Lellan, though theyrefrained from any outbreak, yet they regarded in grim defiance theirold rival and underplotter. In truth a general distrust prevailedthroughout the party concerning Lisa and his intentions. They consideredhim artful and slippery, and secretly anxious for the failure of theirexpedition. There being now nothing more to be apprehended from theSioux, they suspected that Lisa would take advantage of his twenty-oaredbarge to leave them and get first among the Arickaras. As he had tradedwith those people and possessed great influence over them, it was fearedhe might make use of it to impede the business of Mr. Hunt and hisparty. It was resolved, therefore, to keep a sharp look-out upon hismovements; and M'Lellan swore that if he saw the least sign of treacheryon his part, he would instantly put his old threat into execution. 

Notwithstanding these secret jealousies and heart-burnings, the twoparties maintained an outward appearance of civility, and for two dayscontinued forward in company with some degree of harmony. On the thirdday, however, an explosion took place, and it was produced by no lessa personage than Pierre Dorion, the half-breed interpreter. It will berecollected that this worthy had been obliged to steal a march from St. Louis, to avoid being arrested for an old whiskey debt which he owed tothe Missouri Fur Company, and by which Mr. Lisa had hoped to prevent hisenlisting in Mr. Hunt's expedition. Dorion, since the arrival of Lisa, had kept aloof and regarded him with a sullen and dogged aspect. On thefifth of July the two parties were brought to a halt by a heavy rain, and remained encamped about a hundred yards apart. In the course ofthe day Lisa undertook to tamper with the faith of Pierre Dorion, and, inviting him on board of his boat, regaled him with his favoritewhiskey. When he thought him sufficiently mellowed, he proposed tohim to quit the service of his new employers and return to his oldallegiance. Finding him not to be moved by soft words, he called to mindhis old debt to the company, and threatened to carry him off by force, in payment of it. The mention of this debt always stirred up the gallof Pierre Dorion, bringing with it the remembrance of the whiskeyextortion. A violent quarrel arose between him and Lisa, and he left theboat in high dudgeon. His first step was to repair to the tent of Mr. Hunt and reveal the attempt that had been made to shake his faith. Whilehe was yet talking Lisa entered the tent, under the pretext of comingto borrow a towing line. High words instantly ensued between him andDorion, which ended by the half-breed's dealing him a blow. A quarrelin the "Indian country", however, is not to be settled with fisticuffs. Lisa immediately rushed to his boat for a weapon. Dorion snatched upa pair of pistols belonging to Mr. Hunt, and placed himself in battlearray. The noise had roused the camp, and every one pressed to knowthe cause. Lisa now reappeared upon the field with a knife stuck inhis girdle. Mr. Breckenridge, who had tried in vain to mollify his ire, accompanied him to the scene of action. Pierre Dorion's pistols gavehim the advantage, and he maintained a most warlike attitude. In themeantime, Crooks and M'Lellan had learnt the cause of the affray, andwere each eager to take the quarrel into their own hands. A scene ofuproar and hubbub ensued that defies description. M'Lellan would havebrought his rifle into play and settled all old and new grudges bya pull of the trigger, had he not been restrained by Mr. Hunt. Thatgentleman acted as moderator, endeavoring to prevent a general melee; inthe midst of the brawl, however, an expression was made use of by Lisaderogatory to his own honor. In an instant the tranquil spirit of Mr. Hunt was in a flame. He now became as eager for the fight as any one onthe ground, and challenged Lisa to settle the dispute on the spot withpistols. Lisa repaired to his boat to arm himself for the deadly feud. He was followed by Messrs. Bradbury and Breckenridge, who, novices inIndian life and the "chivalry" of the frontier, had no relish for scenesof blood and brawl. By their earnest mediation the quarrel was broughtto a close without bloodshed; but the two leaders of the rival campsseparated in anger, and all personal intercourse ceased between them. 

CHAPTER XX. 

 Features of the Wilderness--Herds of Buffalo. --Antelopes-- Their Varieties and Habits. --John Day. --His Hunting Strategy--Interview with Three Arickaras--Negotiations Between the Rival Parties--The Left-Handed and the Big Man, two Arickara Chiefs. --Arickara Village--Its Inhabitants-- Ceremonials on Landing--A Council Lodge. --Grand Conference-- Speech of Lisa. --Negotiation for Horses. --Shrewd Suggestion of Gray Eyes, an Arickara Chief--Encampment of the Trading Parties. 

THE rival parties now coasted along the opposite sides of the river, within sight of each other; the barges of Mr. Hunt always keeping somedistance in the advance, lest Lisa should push on and get first tothe Arickara village. The scenery and objects, as they proceeded, gaveevidence that they were advancing deeper and deeper into the domains ofsavage nature. Boundless wastes kept extending to the eye, more and moreanimated by herds of buffalo. Sometimes these unwieldy animals were seenmoving in long procession across the silent landscape; at other timesthey were scattered about, singly or in groups, on the broad, enameledprairies and green acclivities, some cropping the rich pasturage, othersreclining amidst the flowery herbage; the whole scene realizing in amanner the old Scriptural descriptions of the vast pastoral countries ofthe Orient, with "cattle upon a thousand hills. "

At one place the shores seemed absolutely lined with buffaloes; manywere making their way across the stream, snorting, and blowing, andfloundering. Numbers, in spite of every effort, were borne by the rapidcurrent within shot of the boats, and several were killed. At anotherplace a number were descried on the beach of a small island, under theshade of the trees, or standing in the water, like cattle, to avoid theflies and the heat of the day. 

Several of the best marksmen stationed themselves in the bow of a bargewhich advanced slowly and silently, stemming the current with the aidof a broad sail and a fair breeze. The buffaloes stood gazing quietly atthe barge as it approached, perfectly unconscious of their danger. Thefattest of the herd was selected by the hunters, who all fired togetherand brought down their victim. 

Besides the buffaloes they saw abundance of deer, and frequent gangsof stately elks, together with light troops of sprightly antelopes, thefleetest and most beautiful inhabitants of the prairies. 

There are two kinds of antelopes in these regions, one nearly the sizeof the common deer, the other not much larger than a goat. Their coloris a light gray, or rather dun, slightly spotted with white; and theyhave small horns like those of the deer, which they never shed. Nothingcan surpass the delicate and elegant finish of their limbs, in whichlightness, elasticity, and strength are wonderfully combined. Allthe attitudes and movements of this beautiful animal are graceful andpicturesque; and it is altogether as fit a subject for the fanciful usesof the poet as the oft-sung gazelle of the East. 

Their habits are shy and capricious; they keep on the open plains, arequick to take the alarm, and bound away with a fleetness that defiespursuit. When thus skimming across a prairie in the autumn, their lightgray or dun color blends with the hue of the withered herbage, theswiftness of their motion baffles the eye, and they almost seemunsubstantial forms, driven like gossamer before the wind. 

While they thus keep to the open plain and trust to their speed, theyare safe; but they have a prurient curiosity that sometimes betraysthem to their ruin. When they have scud for some distance and left theirpursuer behind, they will suddenly stop and turn to gaze at the objectof their alarm. If the pursuit is not followed up they will, after atime, yield to their inquisitive hankering, and return to the place fromwhence they have been frightened. 

John Day, the veteran hunter already mentioned, displayed his experienceand skill in entrapping one of these beautiful animals. Taking advantageof its well known curiosity, he laid down flat among the grass, andputting his handkerchief on the end of his ramrod, waved it gentlyin the air. This had the effect of the fabled fascination of therattlesnake. The antelope approached timidly, pausing and reconnoiteringwith increased curiosity; moving round the point of attraction in acircle, but still drawing nearer and nearer, until being within range ofthe deadly rifle, he fell a victim to his curiosity. 

On the 10th of June, as the party were making brisk progress with a finebreeze, they met a canoe with three Indians descending the river. Theycame to a parley, and brought news from the Arickara village. The warparty, which had caused such alarm at the sand-bar, had reached thevillage some days previously, announced the approach of a party oftraders, and displayed with great ostentation the presents they hadreceived from them. On further conversation with these three Indians, Mr. Hunt learnt the real danger which he had run, when hemmed up withinthe sand-bar. The Mandans who were of the war party, when they saw theboat so completely entrapped and apparently within their power, had beeneager for attacking it, and securing so rich a prize. The Minatarees, also, were nothing loath, feeling in some measure committed in hostilityto the whites, in consequence of their tribe having killed two white menabove the fort of the Missouri Fur Company. Fortunately, the Arickaras, who formed the majority of the war party, proved true in theirfriendship to the whites, and prevented any hostile act, otherwise abloody affray, and perhaps a horrible massacre might have ensued. 

On the 11th of June, Mr. Hunt and his companions encamped near an islandabout six miles below the Arickara village. Mr. Lisa encamped, asusual, at no great distance; but the same sullen jealous reserve andnon-intercourse continued between them. Shortly after pitching thetents, Mr. Breckenridge made his appearance as an ambassador from therival camp. He came on behalf of his companions, to arrange the mannerof making their entrance into the village and of receiving the chiefs;for everything of the kind is a matter of grave ceremonial among theIndians. 

The partners now expressed frankly their deep distrust of the intentionsof Mr. Lisa, and their apprehensions, that, out of the jealousy oftrade, and resentment of recent disputes, he might seek to instigatethe Arickaras against them. Mr. Breckenridge assured them that theirsuspicions were entirely groundless, and pledged himself that nothingof the kind should take place. He found it difficult, however, to removetheir distrust; the conference, therefore, ended without producingany cordial understanding; and M'Lellan recurred to his old threat ofshooting Lisa the instant he discovered anything like treachery in hisproceedings. 

That night the rain fell in torrents, accompanied by thunder andlightning. The camp was deluged, and the bedding and baggage drenched. All hands embarked at an early hour, and set forward for the village. About nine o'clock, when half way, they met a canoe, on board of whichwere two Arickara dignitaries. One, a fine-looking man, much above thecommon size, was hereditary chief of the village; he was calledthe Left-handed, on account of a personal peculiarity. The other, aferocious-looking savage, was the war chief, or generalissimo; he wasknown by the name of the Big Man, an appellation he well deserved fromhis size, for he was of a gigantic frame. Both were of fairer complexionthan is usual with savages. 

They were accompanied by an interpreter; a French creole, one of thosehaphazard wights of Gallic origin who abound upon our frontiers, livingamong the Indians like one of their own race. He had been twenty yearsamong the Arickaras, had a squaw and troop of piebald children, andofficiated as interpreter to the chiefs. Through this worthy organthe two dignitaries signified to Mr. Hunt their sovereign intention tooppose the further progress of the expedition up the river unless a boatwere left to trade with them. Mr. Hunt, in reply, explained the objectof his voyage, and his intention of debarking at their village andproceeding thence by land; and that he would willingly trade with themfor a supply of horses for his journey. With this explanation they wereperfectly satisfied, and putting about, steered for their village tomake preparations for the reception of the strangers. 

The village of the Rikaras, Arickaras, or Ricarees, for the name isthus variously written, is between the 46th and 47th parallels of northlatitude, and fourteen hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of theMissouri. The party reached it about ten o'clock in the morning, butlanded on the opposite side of the river, where they spread out theirbaggage and effects to dry. From hence they commanded an excellent viewof the village. It was divided into two portions, about eighty yardsapart, being inhabited by two distinct bands. The whole extended aboutthree-quarters of a mile along the river bank, and was composed ofconical lodges, that looked like so many small hillocks, being woodenframes intertwined with osier, and covered with earth. The plain beyondthe village swept up into hills of considerable height, but the wholecountry was nearly destitute of trees. While they were regardingthe village, they beheld a singular fleet coming down the river. Itconsisted of a number of canoes, each made of a single buffalo hidestretched on sticks, so as to form a kind of circular trough. Each onewas navigated by a single squaw, who knelt in the bottom and paddled;towing after her frail bark a bundle of floating wood intended forfiring. This kind of canoe is in frequent use among the Indians; thebuffalo hide being readily made up into a bundle and transported onhorseback; it is very serviceable in conveying baggage across therivers. 

The great number of horses grazing around the village, and scatteredover the neighboring hills and valleys, bespoke the equestrian habit ofthe Arickaras, who are admirable horsemen. Indeed, in the number of hishorses consists the wealth of an Indian of the prairies; who resemblesan Arab in his passion for this noble animal, and in his adroitness inthe management of it. 

After a time, the voice of the sovereign chief, "the Left-handed, " washeard across the river, announcing that the council lodge was preparing, and inviting the white men to come over. The river was half a mile inwidth, yet every word uttered by the chieftain was heard; this may bepartly attributed to the distinct manner in which every syllable of thecompound words in the Indian language is articulated and accented; butin truth, a savage warrior might often rival Achilles himself for forceof lungs. *

 (* Bradbury, p. 110. )

Now came the delicate point of management--how the two rival partieswere to conduct their visit to the village with proper circumspectionand due decorum. Neither of the leaders had spoken to each other sincetheir quarrel. All communication had been by ambassadors. Seeing thejealousy entertained of Lisa, Mr. Breckenridge, in his negotiation, hadarranged that a deputation from each party should cross the river at thesame time, so that neither would have the first access to the ear of theArickaras. 

The distrust of Lisa, however, had increased in proportion as theyapproached the sphere of action; and M'Lellan, in particular, kept avigilant eye upon his motions, swearing to shoot him if he attempted tocross the river first. 

About two o'clock the large boat of Mr. Hunt was manned, and he steppedon board, accompanied by Messrs. M'Kenzie and M'Lellan; Lisa at thesame time embarked in his barge; the two deputations amounted in allto fourteen persons, and never was any movement of rival potentatesconducted with more wary exactness. 

They landed amidst a rabble crowd, and were received on the bank bythe left-handed chief, who conducted them into the village with gravecourtesy; driving to the right and left the swarms of old squaws, imp-like boys, and vagabond dogs, with which the place abounded. Theywound their way between the cabins, which looked like dirt-heaps huddledtogether without any plan, and surrounded by old palisades; all filthyin the extreme, and redolent of villainous smells. 

At length they arrived at the council lodge. It was somewhat spacious, and formed of four forked trunks of trees placed upright, supportingcross-beams and a frame of poles interwoven with osiers, and the wholecovered with earth. A hole sunken in the center formed the fireplace, and immediately above was a circular hole in the apex of the lodge, to let out the smoke and let in the daylight. Around the lodge wererecesses for sleeping, like the berths on board ships, screened fromview by curtains of dressed skins. At the upper end of the lodge wasa kind of hunting and warlike trophy, consisting of two buffalo headsgarishly painted, surmounted by shields, bows, quivers of arrows, andother weapons. 

On entering the lodge the chief pointed to mats or cushions whichhad been placed around for the strangers, and on which they seatedthemselves, while he placed himself on a kind of stool. An old man thencame forward with the pipe of peace or good-fellowship, lighted andhanded it to the chief, and then falling back, squatted himself near thedoor. The pipe was passed from mouth to mouth, each one taking a whiff, which is equivalent to the inviolable pledge of faith, of taking salttogether among the ancient Britons. The chief then made a sign to theold pipe-bearer, who seemed to fill, likewise, the station of herald, seneschal, and public crier, for he ascended to the top of the lodgeto make proclamation. Here he took his post beside the aperture for theemission of smoke and the admission of light; the chief dictated fromwithin what he was to proclaim, and he bawled it forth with a force oflungs that resounded over all the village. In this way he summoned thewarriors and great men to council; every now and then reporting progressto his chief through the hole in the roof. 

In a little while the braves and sages began to enter one by one, astheir names were called or announced, emerging from under the buffalorobe suspended over the entrance instead of a door, stalking across thelodge to the skins placed on the floor, and crouching down on them insilence. In this way twenty entered and took their seats, forming anassemblage worthy of the pencil: for the Arickaras are a noble race ofmen, large and well formed, and maintain a savage grandeur and gravityof demeanor in their solemn ceremonials. 

All being seated, the old seneschal prepared the pipe of ceremony orcouncil, and having lit it, handed it to the chief. He inhaled thesacred smoke, gave a puff upward to the heaven, then downward to theearth, then towards the east; after this it was as usual passed frommouth to mouth, each holding it respectfully until his neighbor hadtaken several whiffs; and now the grand council was considered as openedin due form. 

The chief made an harangue welcoming the white men to his village, andexpressing his happiness in taking them by the hand as friends; but atthe same time complaining of the poverty of himself and his people; theusual prelude among Indians to begging or hard bargaining. 

Lisa rose to reply, and the eyes of Hunt and his companions were eagerlyturned upon him, those of M'Lellan glaring like a basilisk's. He beganby the usual expressions of friendship, and then proceeded to explainthe object of his own party. Those persons, however, said he, pointingto Mr. Hunt and his companions, are of a different party, and are quitedistinct in their views; but, added he, though we are separate parties, we make but one common cause when the safety of either is concerned. Anyinjury or insult offered to them I shall consider as done to myself, andwill resent it accordingly. I trust, therefore, that you will treat themwith the same friendship that you have always manifested for me, doingeverything in your power to serve them and to help them on their way. The speech of Lisa, delivered with an air of frankness and sincerity, agreeably surprised and disappointed the rival party. 

Mr. Hunt then spoke, declaring the object of his journey to the greatSalt Lake beyond the mountains, and that he should want horses for thepurpose, for which he was ready to trade, having brought with him plentyof goods. Both he and Lisa concluded their speeches by making presentsof tobacco. 

The left-handed chieftain in reply promised his friendship and aid tothe new comers, and welcomed them to his village. He added that they hadnot the number of horses to spare that Mr. Hunt required, and expresseda doubt whether they should be able to part with any. Upon this, anotherchieftain, called Gray Eyes, made a speech, and declared that they couldreadily supply Mr. Hunt with all the horses he might want, since, ifthey had not enough in the village, they could easily steal more. Thishonest expedient immediately removed the main difficulty; but the chiefdeferred all trading for a day or two; until he should have timeto consult with his subordinate chiefs as to market rates; for theprincipal chief of a village, in conjunction with his council, usuallyfixes the prices at which articles shall be bought and sold, and to themthe village must conform. 

The council now broke up. Mr. Hunt transferred his camp across the riverat a little distance below the village, and the left-handed chief placedsome of his warriors as a guard to prevent the intrusion of any of hispeople. The camp was pitched on the river bank just above the boats. Thetents, and the men wrapped in their blankets and bivouacking on skins inthe open air, surrounded the baggage at night. Four sentinels also keptwatch within sight of each other outside of the camp until midnight, when they were relieved by four others who mounted guard until daylight. Mr. Lisa encamped near to Mr. Hunt, between him and the village. 

The speech of Mr. Lisa in the council had produced a pacific effect inthe encampment. Though the sincerity of his friendship and good-willtowards the new company still remained matter of doubt, he was no longersuspected of an intention to play false. The intercourse between the twoleaders was therefore resumed, and the affairs of both parties went onharmoniously. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

 An Indian Horse Fair. --Love of the Indians for Horses-- Scenes in the Arickara Village. --Indian Hospitality. --Duties of Indian Women. Game Habits of the Men. --Their Indolence. --Love of Gossiping. --Rumors of Lurking Enemies. --Scouts. -- An Alarm. --A Sallying Forth. --Indian Dogs. --Return of a Horse --Stealing Party. --An Indian Deputation. --Fresh Alarms. --Return of a Successful War Party. --Dress of the Arickaras. --Indian Toilet. --Triumphal Entry of the War Party. --Meetings of Relations and Friends. --Indian Sensibility. --Meeting of a Wounded Warrior and His Mother. --Festivities and Lamentations. 

A TRADE now commenced with the Arickaras under the regulation andsupervision of their two chieftains. Lisa sent a part of his goods tothe lodge of the left-handed dignitary, and Mr. Hunt establishedhis mart in the lodge of the Big Man. The village soon presented theappearance of a busy fair; and as horses were in demand, the purlieusand the adjacent plain were like the vicinity of a Tartar encampment;horses were put through all their paces, and horsemen were careeringabout with that dexterity and grace for which the Arickaras are noted. As soon as a horse was purchased, his tail was cropped, a sure mode ofdistinguishing him from the horses of the tribe; for the Indians disdainto practice this absurd, barbarous, and indecent mutilation, inventedby some mean and vulgar mind, insensible to the merit and perfections ofthe animal. On the contrary, the Indian horses are suffered to remain inevery respect the superb and beautiful animals which nature formed them. 

The wealth of an Indian of the far west consists principally in hishorses, of which each chief and warrior possesses a great number, sothat the plains about an Indian village or encampment are covered withthem. These form objects of traffic, or objects of depredation, andin this way pass from tribe to tribe over great tracts of country. Thehorses owned by the Arickaras are, for the most part, of the wild stockof the prairies; some, however, had been obtained from the Poncas, Pawnees, and other tribes to the southwest, who had stolen them fromthe Spaniards in the course of horse-stealing expeditions into Mexicanterritories. These were to be known by being branded; a Spanish mode ofmarking horses not practiced by the Indians. 

As the Arickaras were meditating another expedition against theirenemies the Sioux, the articles of traffic most in demand were guns, tomahawks, scalping-knives, powder, ball, and other munitions of war. The price of a horse, as regulated by the chiefs, was commonly tendollars' worth of goods at first cost. To supply the demand thussuddenly created, parties of young men and braves had sallied forthon expeditions to steal horses; a species of service among the Indianswhich takes precedence of hunting, and is considered a department ofhonorable warfare. 

While the leaders of the expedition were actively engaged in preparingfor the approaching journey, those who had accompanied it for curiosityor amusement, found ample matter for observation in the village and itsinhabitants. Wherever they went they were kindly entertained. If theyentered a lodge, the buffalo robe was spread before the fire for themto sit down; the pipe was brought, and while the master of the lodgeconversed with his guests, the squaw put the earthen vessel over thefire well filled with dried buffalo-meat and pounded corn; for theIndian in his native state, before he has mingled much with white men, and acquired their sordid habits, has the hospitality of the Arab: neverdoes a stranger enter his door without having food placed before him;and never is the food thus furnished made a matter of traffic. 

The life of an Indian when at home in his village is a life of indolenceand amusement. To the woman is consigned the labors of the householdand the field; she arranges the lodge; brings wood for the fire; cooks;jerks venison and buffalo meat; dresses the skins of the animals killedin the chase; cultivates the little patch of maize, pumpkins, and pulse, which furnishes a great part of their provisions. Their time for reposeand recreation is at sunset, when the labors of the day being ended, they gather together to amuse themselves with petty games, or to holdgossiping convocations on the tops of their lodges. 

As to the Indian, he is a game animal, not to be degraded by useful ormenial toil. It is enough that he exposes himself to the hardshipsof the chase and the perils of war; that he brings home food for hisfamily, and watches and fights for its protection. Everything else isbeneath his attention. When at home, he attends only to his weapons andhis horses, preparing the means of future exploit. Or he engages withhis comrades in games of dexterity, agility and strength; or in gamblinggames in which everything is put at hazard with a recklessness seldomwitnessed in civilized life. 

A great part of the idle leisure of the Indians when at home is passedin groups, squatted together on the bank of a river, on the top ofa mound on the prairie, or on the roof of one of their earth-coveredlodges, talking over the news of the day, the affairs of the tribe, theevents and exploits of their last hunting or fighting expedition; orlistening to the stories of old times told by some veteran chronicler;resembling a group of our village quidnuncs and politicians, listeningto the prosings of some superannuated oracle, or discussing the contentsof an ancient newspaper. 

As to the Indian women, they are far from complaining of their lot. Onthe contrary, they would despise their husbands could they stoop to anymenial office, and would think it conveyed an imputation upon their ownconduct. It is the worst insult one virago can cast upon another in amoment of altercation. "Infamous woman!" will she cry, "I have seen yourhusband carrying wood into his lodge to make the fire. Where was hissquaw, that he should be obliged to make a woman of himself!"

Mr. Hunt and his fellow-travellers had not been many days at theArickara village, when rumors began to circulate that the Sioux hadfollowed them up, and that a war party, four or five hundred in number, were lurking somewhere in the neighborhood. These rumors producedmuch embarrassment in the camp. The white hunters were deterred fromventuring forth in quest of game, neither did the leaders think itproper to expose them to such a risk. The Arickaras, too, who hadsuffered greatly in their wars with this cruel and ferocious tribe, wereroused to increased vigilance, and stationed mounted scouts upon theneighboring hills. This, however, is a general precaution among thetribes of the prairies. Those immense plains present a horizon likethe ocean, so that any object of importance can be descried afar, andinformation communicated to a great distance. The scouts are stationedon the hills, therefore, to look out both for game and for enemies, and are, in a manner, living telegraphs conveying their intelligence byconcerted signs. If they wish to give notice of a herd of buffalo in theplain beyond, they gallop backwards and forwards abreast, on the summitof the hill. If they perceive an enemy at hand, they gallop to and fro, crossing each other; at sight of which the whole village flies to arms. 

Such an alarm was given in the afternoon of the 15th. Four scouts wereseen crossing and recrossing each other at full gallop, on the summit ofa hill about two miles distant down the river. The cry was up that theSioux were coming. In an instant the village was in an uproar. Men, women, and children were all brawling and shouting; dogs barking, yelping, and howling. Some of the warriors ran for the horses to gatherand drive them in from the prairie, some for their weapons. As fast asthey could arm and equip they sallied forth; some on horseback, someon foot. Some hastily arrayed in their war dress, with coronets offluttering feathers, and their bodies smeared with paint; others nakedand only furnished with the weapons they had snatched up. The women andchildren gathered on the tops of the lodges and heightened the confusionof the scene by their vociferation. Old men who could no longer beararms took similar stations, and harangued the warriors as they passed, exhorting them to valorous deeds. Some of the veterans took armsthemselves, and sallied forth with tottering steps. In this way, thesavage chivalry of the village to the number of five hundred, pouredforth, helter-skelter, riding and running, with hideous yells andwar-whoops, like so many bedlamites or demoniacs let loose. 

After a while the tide of war rolled back, but with far less uproar. Either it had been a false alarm, or the enemy had retreated on findingthemselves discovered, and quiet was restored to the village. The whitehunters continuing to be fearful of ranging this dangerous neighborhood, fresh provisions began to be scarce in the camp. As a substitute, therefore, for venison and buffalo meat, the travellers had to purchasea number of dogs to be shot and cooked for the supply of the camp. Fortunately, however chary the Indians might be of their horses, theywere liberal of their dogs. In fact, these animals swarm about an Indianvillage as they do about a Turkish town. Not a family but has two orthree dozen belonging to it, of all sizes and colors; some of a superiorbreed are used for hunting; others, to draw the sledge, while others, ofa mongrel breed, and idle vagabond nature, are fattened for food. Theyare supposed to be descendant from the wolf, and retain something of hissavage but cowardly temper, howling rather than barking; showing theirteeth and snarling on the slightest provocation, but sneaking away onthe least attack. 

The excitement of the village continued from day to day. On the dayfollowing the alarm just mentioned, several parties arrived fromdifferent directions, and were met and conducted by some of the bravesto the council lodge, where they reported the events and success oftheir expeditions, whether of war or hunting; which news was afterwardspromulgated throughout the village, by certain old men who acted asheralds or town criers. Among the parties which arrived was one that hadbeen among the Snake nation stealing horses, and returned crowned withsuccess. As they passed in triumph through the village they were cheeredby the men, women, and children, collected as usual on the tops of thelodges, and were exhorted by the Nesters of the village to be generousin their dealings with the white men. 

The evening was spent in feasting and rejoicing among the relations ofthe successful warriors; but the sounds of grief and wailing were heardfrom the hills adjacent to the village--the lamentations of women whohad lost some relative in the foray. 

An Indian village is subject to continual agitations and excitements. The next day arrived a deputation of braves from the Cheyenne or Shiennenation; a broken tribe, cut up, like the Arickaras, by wars with theSioux, and driven to take refuge among the Black Hills, near the sourcesof the Cheyenne River, from which they derive their name. One of thesedeputies was magnificently arrayed in a buffalo robe, on which variousfigures were fancifully embroidered with split quills dyed red andyellow; and the whole was fringed with the slender hoofs of young fawns, that rattled as he walked. 

The arrival of this deputation was the signal for another of thoseceremonials which occupy so much of Indian life; for no being is morecourtly and punctilious, and more observing of etiquette and formalitythan an American savage. 

The object of the deputation was to give notice of an intended visit ofthe Shienne (or Cheyenne) tribe to the Arickara village in the courseof fifteen days. To this visit Mr. Hunt looked forward to procureadditional horses for his journey; all his bargaining being ineffectualin obtaining a sufficient supply from the Arickaras. Indeed, nothingcould prevail upon the latter to part with their prime horses, which hadbeen trained to buffalo hunting. 

As Mr. Hunt would have to abandon his boats at this place, Mr. Lisanow offered to purchase them, and such of his merchandise as wassuperfluous, and to pay him in horses to be obtained at a fort belongingto the Missouri Fur Company, situated at the Mandan villages, about ahundred and fifty miles further up the river. A bargain was promptlymade, and Mr. Lisa and Mr. Crooks, with several companions, set outfor the fort to procure the horses. They returned, after upwards of afortnight's absence, bringing with them the stipulated number of horses. Still the cavalry was not sufficiently numerous to convey the party andbaggage and merchandise, and a few days more were required to completethe arrangements for the journey. 

On the 9th of July, just before daybreak, a great noise and vociferationwas heard in the village. This being the usual Indian hour of attack andsurprise, and the Sioux being known to be in the neighborhood, the campwas instantly on the alert. As the day broke Indians were descried inconsiderable number on the bluffs, three or four miles down the river. The noise and agitation in the village continued. The tops of the lodgeswere crowded with the inhabitants, all earnestly looking towards thehills, and keeping up a vehement chattering. Presently an Indian warriorgalloped past the camp towards the village, and in a little while thelegions began to pour forth. 

The truth of the matter was now ascertained. The Indians upon thedistant hills were three hundred Arickara braves, returning home from aforay. They had met the war party of Sioux who had been so long hoveringabout the neighborhood, had fought them the day before, killed several, and defeated the rest with the loss of but two or three of their own menand about a dozen wounded; and they were now halting at a distance untiltheir comrades in the village should come forth to meet them, and swellthe parade of their triumphal entry. The warrior who had galloped pastthe camp was the leader of the party hastening home to give tidings ofhis victory. 

Preparations were now made for this great martial ceremony. All thefinery and equipments of the warriors were sent forth to them, that theymight appear to the greatest advantage. Those, too, who had remained athome, tasked their wardrobes and toilets to do honor to the procession. 

The Arickaras generally go naked, but, like all savages, they have theirgala dress, of which they are not a little vain. This usually consistsof a gray surcoat and leggins of the dressed skin of the antelope, resembling chamois leather, and embroidered with porcupine quillsbrilliantly dyed. A buffalo robe is thrown over the right shoulder, andacross the left is slung a quiver of arrows. They wear gay coronets ofplumes, particularly those of the swan; but the feathers of the blackeagle are considered the most worthy, being a sacred bird among theIndian warriors. 

He who has killed an enemy in his own land, is entitled to drag athis heels a fox-skin attached to each moccasin; and he who has slain agrizzly bear, wears a necklace of his claws, the most glorious trophythat a hunter can exhibit. 

An Indian toilet is an operation of some toil and trouble; thewarrior often has to paint himself from head to foot, and is extremelycapricious and difficult to please, as to the hideous distribution ofstreaks and colors. A great part of the morning, therefore, passed awaybefore there were any signs of the distant pageant. In the meantime aprofound stillness reigned over the village. Most of the inhabitantshad gone forth; others remained in mute expectation. All sports andoccupations were suspended, excepting that in the lodges the painstakingsquaws were silently busied in preparing the repasts for the warriors. 

It was near noon that a mingled sound of voices and rude music, faintlyheard from a distance, gave notice that the procession was on the march. The old men and such of the squaws as could leave their employmentshastened forth to meet it. In a little while it emerged from behind ahill, and had a wild and picturesque appearance as it came moving overthe summit in measured step, and to the cadence of songs and savageinstruments; the warlike standards and trophies flaunting aloft, and thefeathers, and paint, and silver ornaments of the warriors glaring andglittering in the sunshine. 

The pageant had really something chivalrous in its arrangement. TheArickaras are divided into several bands, each bearing the name of someanimal or bird, as the buffalo, the bear, the dog, the pheasant. Thepresent party consisted of four of these bands, one of which was thedog, the most esteemed in war, being composed of young men under thirty, and noted for prowess. It is engaged in the most desperate occasions. The bands marched in separate bodies under their several leaders. Thewarriors on foot came first, in platoons of ten or twelve abreast; thenthe horsemen. Each band bore as an ensign a spear or bow decorated withbeads, porcupine quills, and painted feathers. Each bore its trophies ofscalps, elevated on poles, their long black locks streaming in the wind. Each was accompanied by its rude music and minstrelsy. In this waythe procession extended nearly a quarter of a mile. The warriors werevariously armed, some few with guns, others with bows and arrows, andwar clubs; all had shields of buffalo hide, a kind of defense generallyused by the Indians of the open prairies, who have not the covert oftrees and forests to protect them. They were painted in the most savagestyle. Some had the stamp of a red hand across their mouths, a sign thatthey had drunk the life-blood of a foe!

As they drew near to the village the old men and the women began to meetthem, and now a scene ensued that proved the fallacy of the old fableof Indian apathy and stoicism. Parents and children, husbands and wives, brothers and sisters met with the most rapturous expressions of joy;while wailings and lamentations were heard from the relatives of thekilled and wounded. The procession, however, continued on with slowand measured step, in cadence to the solemn chant, and the warriorsmaintained their fixed and stern demeanor. 

Between two of the principal chiefs rode a young warrior who haddistinguished himself in the battle. He was severely wounded, so as withdifficulty to keep on his horse; but he preserved a serene and steadfastcountenance, as if perfectly unharmed. His mother had heard of hiscondition. She broke through the throng, and rushing up, threw herarms around him and wept aloud. He kept up the spirit and demeanor of awarrior to the last, but expired shortly after he had reached his home. 

The village was now a scene of the utmost festivity and triumph. Thebanners, and trophies, and scalps, and painted shields were elevatedon poles near the lodges. There were warfeasts, and scalp-dances, withwarlike songs and savage music; all the inhabitants were arrayed intheir festal dresses; while the old heralds went round from lodge tolodge, promulgating with loud voices the events of the battle and theexploits of the various warriors. 

Such was the boisterous revelry of the village; but sounds of anotherkind were heard on the surrounding hills; piteous wailings of the women, who had retired thither to mourn in darkness and solitude for those whohad fallen in battle. There the poor mother of the youthful warrior whohad returned home in triumph but to die, gave full vent to the anguishof a mother's heart. How much does this custom among the Indian woman ofrepairing to the hilltops in the night, and pouring forth their wailingsfor the dead, call to mind the beautiful and affecting passage ofScripture, "In Rama was there a voice heard, lamentation, and weeping, and great mourning, Rachel weeping for her children, and would not becomforted, because they are not. "

CHAPTER XXII. 

 Wilderness of the Far West. --Great American Desert--Parched Seasons. --Black Hills. --Rocky Mountains. --Wandering and Predatory Hordes. --Speculations on What May Be the Future Population. --Apprehended Dangers. -A Plot to Desert. --Rose the Interpreter. --His Sinister Character--Departure From the Arickara Village. 

WHILE Mr. Hunt was diligently preparing for his arduous journey, someof his men began to lose heart at the perilous prospect before them; butbefore we accuse them of want of spirit, it is proper to consider thenature of the wilderness into which they were about to adventure. It wasa region almost as vast and trackless as the ocean, and, at the time ofwhich we treat, but little known, excepting through the vague accountsof Indian hunters. A part of their route would lay across an immensetract, stretching north and south for hundreds of miles along the footof the Rocky Mountains, and drained by the tributary streams of theMissouri and the Mississippi. This region, which resembles one of theimmeasurable steppes of Asia, has not inaptly been termed "the greatAmerican desert. " It spreads forth into undulating and treeless plains, and desolate sandy wastes wearisome to the eye from their extent andmonotony, and which are supposed by geologists to have formed theancient floor of the ocean, countless ages since, when its primevalwaves beat against the granite bases of the Rocky Mountains. 

It is a land where no man permanently abides; for, in certain seasonsof the year there is no food either for the hunter or his steed. Theherbage is parched and withered; the brooks and streams are driedup; the buffalo, the elk and the deer have wandered to distant parts, keeping within the verge of expiring verdure, and leaving behind thema vast uninhabited solitude, seamed by ravines, the beds of formertorrents, but now serving only to tantalize and increase the thirst ofthe traveller. 

Occasionally the monotony of this vast wilderness is interrupted bymountainous belts of sand and limestone, broken into confused masses;with precipitous cliffs and yawning ravines, looking like the ruins ofa world; or is traversed by lofty and barren ridges of rock, almostimpassable, like those denominated the Black Hills. Beyond these risethe stern barriers of the Rocky Mountains, the limits, as it were, ofthe Atlantic world. The rugged defiles and deep valleys of this vastchain form sheltering places for restless and ferocious bands ofsavages, many of them the remnants of tribes, once inhabitants of theprairies, but broken up by war and violence, and who carry into theirmountain haunts the fierce passions and reckless habits of desperadoes. 

Such is the nature of this immense wilderness of the far West; whichapparently defies cultivation, and the habitation of civilized life. Some portions of it along the rivers may partially be subdued byagriculture, others may form vast pastoral tracts, like those of theEast; but it is to be feared that a great part of it will form a lawlessinterval between the abodes of civilized man, like the wastes of theocean or the deserts of Arabia; and, like them, be subject to thedepredations of the marauder. Here may spring up new and mongrel races, like new formations in geology, the amalgamation of the "debris" and"abrasions" of former races, civilized and savage; the remains of brokenand almost extinguished tribes; the descendants of wandering huntersand trappers; of fugitives from the Spanish and American frontiers; ofadventurers and desperadoes of every class and country, yearly ejectedfrom the bosom of society into the wilderness. We are contributingincessantly to swell this singular and heterogeneous cloud of wildpopulation that is to hang about our frontier, by the transfer of wholetribes from the east of the Mississippi to the great wastes of thefar West. Many of these bear with them the smart of real or fanciedinjuries; many consider themselves expatriated beings, wrongfully exiledfrom their hereditary homes, and the sepulchres of their fathers, and cherish a deep and abiding animosity against the race that hasdispossessed them. Some may gradually become pastoral hordes, like thoserude and migratory people, half shepherd, half warrior, who, with theirflocks and herds, roam the plains of upper Asia; but others, it is to beapprehended, will become predatory bands, mounted on the fleet steeds ofthe prairies, with the open plains for their marauding grounds, and themountains for their retreats and lurking-places. Here they may resemblethose great hordes of the North, "Gog and Magog with their bands, " thathaunted the gloomy imaginations of the prophets. "A great company anda mighty host, all riding upon horses, and warring upon those nationswhich were at rest, and dwelt peaceably, and had gotten cattle andgoods. "

The Spaniards changed the whole character and habits of the Indians whenthey brought the horse among them. In Chili, Tucuman, and other parts, it has converted them, we are told, into Tartar-like tribes, and enabledthem to keep the Spaniards out of their country, and even to make itdangerous for them to venture far from their towns and settlements. Arewe not in danger of producing some such state of things in theboundless regions of the far West? That these are not mere fanciful andextravagant suggestions we have sufficient proofs in the dangers alreadyexperienced by the traders to the Spanish mart of Santa Fe, and to thedistant posts of the fur companies. These are obliged to proceed inarmed caravans, and are subject to murderous attacks from bands ofPawnees, Camanches, and Blackfeet, that come scouring upon them in theirweary march across the plains, or lie in wait for them among the passesof the mountains. 

We are wandering, however, into excursive speculations, when ourintention was merely to give an idea of the nature of the wildernesswhich Mr. Hunt was about to traverse; and which at that time was farless known than at present; though it still remains in a great measurean unknown land. We cannot be surprised, therefore, that some of theresolute of his party should feel dismay at the thoughts of adventuringinto this perilous wilderness under the uncertain guidance of threehunters, who had merely passed once through the country and might haveforgotten the landmarks. Their apprehensions were aggravated by someof Lisa's followers, who, not being engaged in the expedition, took amischievous pleasure in exaggerating its dangers. They painted in strongcolors, to the poor Canadian voyageurs, the risk they would run ofperishing with hunger and thirst; of being cut off by war-parties ofthe Sioux who scoured the plains; of having their horses stolen by theUpsarokas or Crows, who infested the skirts of the Rocky Mountains; orof being butchered by the Blackfeet, who lurked among the defiles. Ina word, there was little chance of their getting alive across themountains; and even if they did, those three guides knew nothing of thehowling wilderness that lay beyond. 

The apprehensions thus awakened in the minds of some of the men camewell-nigh proving detrimental to the expedition. Some of them determinedto desert, and to make their way back to St. Louis. They accordinglypurloined several weapons and a barrel of gunpowder, as ammunition fortheir enterprise, and buried them in the river bank, intending to seizeone of the boats, and make off in the night. Fortunately their plot wasoverheard by John Day, the Kentuckian, and communicated to the partners, who took quiet and effectual means to frustrate it. 

The dangers to be apprehended from the Crow Indians had not beenoverrated by the camp gossips. These savages, through whose mountainhaunts the party would have to pass, were noted for daring and excursivehabits, and great dexterity in horse stealing. Mr. Hunt, therefore, considered himself fortunate in having met with a man who might be ofgreat use to him in any intercourse he might have with the tribe. Thiswas a wandering individual named Edward Rose, whom he had picked upsomewhere on the Missouri--one of those anomalous beings found on thefrontier, who seem to have neither kin nor country. He had lived sometime among the Crows, so as to become acquainted with their languageand customs; and was, withal, a dogged, sullen, silent fellow, with asinister aspect, and more of the savage than the civilized man in hisappearance. He was engaged to serve in general as a hunter, but as guideand interpreter when they should reach the country of the Crows. 

On the 18th of July, Mr. Hunt took up his line of march by land fromthe Arickara village, leaving Mr. Lisa and Mr. Nuttall there, wherethey intended to await the expected arrival of Mr. Henry from the RockyMountains. As to Messrs. Bradbury and Breckenridge, they had departedsome days previously, on a voyage down the river to St. Louis, with adetachment from Mr. Lisa's party. With all his exertions, Mr. Hunthad been unable to obtain a sufficient number of horses for theaccommodation of all his people. His cavalcade consisted of eighty-twohorses, most of them heavily laden with Indian goods, beaver traps, ammunition, Indian corn, corn meal and other necessaries. Each of thepartners was mounted, and a horse was allotted to the interpreter, Pierre Dorion, for the transportation of his luggage and his twochildren. His squaw, for the most part of the time, trudged on foot, like the residue of the party; nor did any of the men show more patienceand fortitude than this resolute woman in enduring fatigue and hardship. 

The veteran trappers and voyageurs of Lisa's party shook their headsas their comrades set out, and took leave of them as of doomed men;and even Lisa himself gave it as his opinion, after the travellers haddeparted, they would never reach the shores of the Pacific, but wouldeither perish with hunger in the wilderness, or be cut off by thesavages. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

 Summer Weather of the Prairies. --Purity of the Atmosphere-- Canadians on the March. --Sickness in the Camp. --Big River. -- Vulgar Nomenclature. --Suggestions About the Original Indian Names. --Camp of Cheyennes. --Trade for Horses. --Character of the Cheyennes. --Their Horsemanship. --Historical Anecdotes of the Tribe. 

THE course taken by Mr. Hunt was at first to the northwest, but soonturned and kept generally to the southwest, to avoid the countryinfested by the Blackfeet. His route took him across some of thetributary streams of the Missouri, and over immense prairies, boundedonly by the horizon, and destitute of trees. It was now the height ofsummer, and these naked plains would be intolerable to the travellerwere it not for the breezes which swept over them during the fervor ofthe day, bringing with them tempering airs from the distant mountains. To the prevalence of these breezes, and to the want of all leafy covert, may we also attribute the freedom from those flies and other insectsso tormenting to man and beast during the summer months, in the lowerplains, which are bordered and interspersed with woodland. 

The monotony of these immense landscapes, also, would be as wearisome asthat of the ocean, were it not relieved in some degree by the purity andelasticity of the atmosphere, and the beauty of the heavens. The skyhas that delicious blue for which the sky of Italy is renowned; the sunshines with a splendor unobscured by any cloud or vapor, and a starlightnight on the prairies is glorious. This purity and elasticity ofatmosphere increases as the traveller approaches the mountains andgradually rises into more elevated prairies. 

On the second day of the journey, Mr. Hunt arranged the party into smalland convenient messes, distributing among them the camp kettles. Theencampments at night were as before; some sleeping under tents, andothers bivouacking in the open air. The Canadians proved as patient oftoll and hardship on the land as on the water; indeed, nothing couldsurpass the patience and good-humor of these men upon the march. Theywere the cheerful drudges of the party, loading and unloading thehorses, pitching the tents, making the fires, cooking; in short, performing all those household and menial offices which the Indiansusually assign to the squaws; and, like the squaws, they left all thehunting and fighting to others. A Canadian has but little affection forthe exercise of the rifle. 

The progress of the party was but slow for the first few days. Some ofthe men were indisposed; Mr. Crooks, especially, was so unwell thathe could not keep on his horse. A rude kind of litter was, therefore, prepared for him, consisting of two long poles, fixed, one on each sideof two horses, with a matting between them, on which he reclined at fulllength, and was protected from the sun by a canopy of boughs. 

On the evening of the 23d (July) they encamped on the banks of whatthey term Big River; and here we cannot but pause to lament the stupid, commonplace, and often ribald names entailed upon the rivers and otherfeatures of the great West, by traders and settlers. As the aboriginaltribes of these magnificent regions are yet in existence, the Indiannames might easily be recovered; which, besides being in general moresonorous and musical, would remain mementoes of the primitive lordsof the soil, of whom in a little while scarce any traces will be left. Indeed, it is to be wished that the whole of our country could berescued, as much as possible, from the wretched nomenclature inflictedupon it, by ignorant and vulgar minds; and this might be done, in agreat degree, by restoring the Indian names, wherever significantand euphonious. As there appears to be a spirit of research abroad inrespect to our aboriginal antiquities, we would suggest, as a worthyobject of enterprise, a map, or maps, of every part of our country, giving the Indian names wherever they could be ascertained. Whoeverachieves such an object worthily, will leave a monument to his ownreputation. 

To return from this digression. As the travellers were now in a countryabounding with buffalo, they remained for several days encamped upon thebanks of Big River, to obtain a supply of provisions, and to give theinvalids time to recruit. 

On the second day of their sojourn, as Ben Jones, John Day, and othersof the hunters were in pursuit of game, they came upon an Indian camp onthe open prairie, near to a small stream which ran through a ravine. The tents or lodges were of dressed buffalo skins, sewn together andstretched on tapering pine poles, joined at top, but radiating atbottom, so as to form a circle capable of admitting fifty persons. Numbers of horses were grazing in the neighborhood of the camp, orstraying at large in the prairie; a sight most acceptable to thehunters. After reconnoitering the camp for some time, they ascertainedit to belong to a band of Cheyenne Indians, the same that had senta deputation to the Arickaras. They received the hunters in the mostfriendly manner; invited them to their lodges, which were more cleanlythan Indian lodges are prone to be, and set food before them with trueuncivilized hospitality. Several of them accompanied the hunters backto the camp, when a trade was immediately opened. The Cheyennes wereastonished and delighted to find a convoy of goods and trinkets thusbrought into the very heart of the prairie; while Mr. Hunt and hiscompanions were overjoyed to have an opportunity of obtaining a furthersupply of horses from these equestrian savages. 

During a fortnight that the travellers lingered at this place, theirencampment was continually thronged by the Cheyennes. They were a civil, well-behaved people, cleanly in their persons, and decorous in theirhabits. The men were tall, straight and vigorous, with aquiline noses, and high cheek bones. Some were almost as naked as ancient statues, and might have stood as models for a statuary; others had leggins andmoccasins of deer skin, and buffalo robes, which they threw gracefullyover their shoulders. In a little while, however, they began to appearin more gorgeous array, tricked out in the finery obtained from thewhite men; bright cloths, brass rings, beads of various colors; andhappy was he who could render himself hideous with vermilion. 

The travellers had frequent occasions to admire the skill and grace withwhich these Indians managed their horses. Some of them made a strikingdisplay when mounted; themselves and their steeds decorated in galastyle; for the Indians often bestow more finery upon their horses thanupon themselves. Some would hang around the necks, or rather on thebreasts of their horses, the most precious ornaments they had obtainedfrom the white men; others interwove feathers in their manes and tails. The Indian horses, too, appear to have an attachment to their wildriders, and indeed, it is said that the horses of the prairies readilydistinguish an Indian from a white man by the smell, and give apreference to the former. Yet the Indians, in general, are hardriders, and, however they may value their horses, treat them with greatroughness and neglect. Occasionally the Cheyennes joined the whitehunters in pursuit of the elk and buffalo; and when in the ardor of thechase, spared neither themselves nor their steeds, scouring the prairiesat full speed, and plunging down precipices and frightful ravines thatthreatened the necks of both horse and horseman. The Indian steed, welltrained to the chase, seems as mad as the rider, and pursues the game aseagerly as if it were his natural prey, on the flesh of which he was tobanquet. 

The history of the Cheyennes is that of many of those wandering tribesof the prairies. They were the remnant of a once powerful people calledthe Shaways, inhabiting a branch of the Red River which flows into LakeWinnipeg. Every Indian tribe has some rival tribe with which it wagesimplacable hostility. The deadly enemies of the Shaways were the Sioux, who, after a long course of warfare, proved too powerful for them, anddrove them across the Missouri. They again took root near the WarricanneCreek, and established themselves there in a fortified village. 

The Sioux still followed with deadly animosity; dislodged them fromtheir village, and compelled them to take refuge in the Black Hills, near the upper waters of the Sheyenne or Cheyenne River. Here they losteven their name, and became known among the French colonists by that ofthe river they frequented. 

The heart of the tribe was now broken; its numbers were greatlythinned by their harassing wars. They no longer attempted to establishthemselves in any permanent abode that might be an object of attackto their cruel foes. They gave up the cultivation of the fruits ofthe earth, and became a wandering tribe, subsisting by the chase, andfollowing the buffalo in its migrations. 

Their only possessions were horses, which they caught on the prairies, or reared, or captured on predatory incursions into the Mexicanterritories, as has already been mentioned. With some of these theyrepaired once a year to the Arickara villages, exchanged them for corn, beans, pumpkins, and articles of European merchandise, and then returnedinto the heart of the prairies. 

Such are the fluctuating fortunes of these savage nations. War, famine, pestilence, together or singly, bring down their strength and thin theirnumbers. Whole tribes are rooted up from their native places, wanderfor a time about these immense regions, become amalgamated with othertribes, or disappear from the face of the earth. There appears to be atendency to extinction among all the savage nations; and this tendencywould seem to have been in operation among the aboriginals of thiscountry long before the advent of the white men, if we may judge fromthe traces and traditions of ancient populousness in regions whichwere silent and deserted at the time of the discovery; and from themysterious and perplexing vestiges of unknown races, predecessors ofthose found in actual possession, and who must long since have becomegradually extinguished or been destroyed. The whole history of theaboriginal population of this country, however, is an enigma, and agrand one--will it ever be solved?

CHAPTER XXIV. 

 New Distribution of Horses--Secret Information of Treason in the Camp. --Rose the Interpreter--His Perfidious Character-- His Plots. --Anecdotes of the Crow Indians. --Notorious Horse Stealers. --Some Account of Rose. --A Desperado of the Frontier. 

ON the sixth of August the travellers bade farewell to the friendly bandof Cheyennes, and resumed their journey. As they had obtained thirty-sixadditional horses by their recent traffic, Mr. Hunt made a newarrangement. The baggage was made up in smaller loads. A horse wasallotted to each of the six prime hunters, and others were distributedamong the voyageurs, a horse for every two, so that they could ride andwalk alternately. Mr. Crooks being still too feeble to mount the saddle, was carried on a litter. 

Their march this day lay among singular hills and knolls of an induratedred earth, resembling brick, about the bases of which were scatteredpumice stones and cinders, the whole bearing traces of the action offire. In the evening they encamped on a branch of Big River. 

They were now out of the tract of country infested by the Sioux, and hadadvanced such a distance into the interior that Mr. Hunt no longer feltapprehensive of the desertion of any of his men. He was doomed, however, to experience new cause of anxiety. As he was seated in his tent afternightfall, one of the men came to him privately, and informed him thatthere was mischief brewing in the camp. Edward Rose, the interpreter, whose sinister looks we have already mentioned, was denounced by thissecret informer as a designing, treacherous scoundrel, who was tamperingwith the fidelity of certain of the men, and instigating them to aflagrant piece of treason. In the course of a few days they would arriveat the mountainous district infested by the Upsarokas or Crows, thetribe among which Rose was to officiate as interpreter. His plan wasthat several of the men should join with him, when in that neighborhood, in carrying off a number of the horses with their packages of goods, anddeserting to those savages. He assured them of good treatment among theCrows, the principal chiefs and warriors of whom he knew; they wouldsoon become great men among them, and have the finest women, and thedaughters of the chiefs for wives; and the horses and goods they carriedoff would make them rich for life. 

The intelligence of this treachery on the part of Rose gave muchdisquiet to Mr. Hunt, for he knew not how far it might be effectiveamong his men. He had already had proofs that several of them weredisaffected to the enterprise, and loath to cross the mountains. Heknew also that savage life had charms for many of them, especially theCanadians, who were prone to intermarry and domesticate themselves amongthe Indians. 

And here a word or two concerning the Crows may be of service to thereader, as they will figure occasionally in the succeeding narration. 

The tribe consists of four bands, which have their nestling-placesin fertile, well-wooded valleys, lying among the Rocky Mountains, andwatered by the Big Horse River and its tributary streams; but, thoughthese are properly their homes, where they shelter their old people, their wives, and their children, the men of the tribe are almostcontinually on the foray and the scamper. They are, in fact, notoriousmarauders and horse-stealers; crossing and re-crossing the mountains, robbing on the one side, and conveying their spoils to the other. Hence, we are told, is derived their name, given to them on account of theirunsettled and predatory habits; winging their flight, like the crows, from one side of the mountains to the other, and making free booty ofeverything that lies in their way. Horses, however, are the especialobjects of their depredations, and their skill and audacity in stealingthem are said to be astonishing. This is their glory and delight; anaccomplished horse-stealer fills up their idea of a hero. Many horsesare obtained by them, also, in barter from tribes in and beyond themountains. They have an absolute passion for this noble animal; besideswhich he is with them an important object of traffic. Once a yearthey make a visit to the Mandans, Minatarees, and other tribes of theMissouri, taking with them droves of horses which they exchange forguns, ammunition, trinkets, vermilion, cloths of bright colors, andvarious other articles of European manufacture. With these they supplytheir own wants and caprices, and carry on the internal trade for horsesalready mentioned. 

The plot of Rose to rob and abandon his countrymen when in the heartof the wilderness, and to throw himself into the hands of savages, mayappear strange and improbable to those unacquainted with the singularand anomalous characters that are to be found about the borders. Thisfellow, it appears, was one of those desperadoes of the frontiers, outlawed by their crimes, who combine the vices of civilized and savagelife, and are ten times more barbarous than the Indians with whom theyconsort. Rose had formerly belonged to one of the gangs of pirates whoinfested the islands of the Mississippi, plundering boats as they wentup and down the river, and who sometimes shifted the scene of theirrobberies to the shore, waylaying travellers as they returned by landfrom New Orleans with the proceeds of their downward voyage, plunderingthem of their money and effects, and often perpetrating the mostatrocious murders. 

These hordes of villains being broken up and dispersed, Rose had betakenhimself to the wilderness, and associated himself with the Crows, whosepredatory habits were congenial with his own, had married a woman of thetribe, and, in short, had identified himself with those vagrant savages. 

Such was the worthy guide and interpreter, Edward Rose. We give hisstory, however, not as it was known to Mr. Hunt and his companions atthe time, but as it has been subsequently ascertained. Enough was knownof the fellow and his dark and perfidious character to put Mr. Hunt uponhis guard: still, as there was no knowing how far his plans might havesucceeded, and as any rash act might blow the mere smouldering sparks oftreason into a sudden blaze, it was thought advisable by those withwhom Mr. Hunt consulted, to conceal all knowledge or suspicion of themeditated treachery, but to keep up a vigilant watch upon the movementsof Rose, and a strict guard upon the horses at night. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

 Substitute for Fuel on the Prairies. --Fossil Trees. -- Fierceness of the Buffaloes When in Heat. --Three Hunters Missing. --Signal Fires and Smokes. --Uneasiness Concerning the Lost Men. --A Plan to Forestall a Rogue. --New Arrangement With Rose. --Return of the Wanderers. 

THE plains over which the travellers were journeying continued to bedestitute of trees or even shrubs; insomuch that they had to use thedung of the buffalo for fuel, as the Arabs of the desert use that of thecamel. This substitute for fuel is universal among the Indians of theseupper prairies, and is said to make a fire equal to that of turf. If afew chips are added, it throws out a cheerful and kindly blaze. 

These plains, however, had not always been equally destitute of wood, aswas evident from the trunks of the trees which the travellers repeatedlymet with, some still standing, others lying about in broken fragments, but all in a fossil state, having flourished in times long past. Inthese singular remains, the original grain of the wood was still sodistinct that they could be ascertained to be the ruins of oak trees. Several pieces of the fossil wood were selected by the men to serve aswhetstones. 

In this part of the journey there was no lack of provisions, for theprairies were covered with immense herds of buffalo. These, in general, are animals of peaceful demeanor, grazing quietly like domestic cattle;but this was the season when they are in heat, and when the bullsare usually fierce and pugnacious. There was accordingly a universalrestlessness and commotion throughout the plain; and the amorous herdsgave utterance to their feelings in low bellowings that resounded likedistant thunder. Here and there fierce duellos took place between rivalenamorados; butting their huge shagged fronts together, goring eachother with their short black horns, and tearing up the earth with theirfeet in perfect fury. 

In one of the evening halts, Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, togetherwith Carson and Gardpie, two of the hunters, were missing, nor hadthey returned by morning. As it was supposed they had wandered away inpursuit of buffalo, and would readily find the track of the party, nosolicitude was felt on their account. A fire was left burning, to guidethem by its column of smoke, and the travellers proceeded on theirmarch. In the evening a signal fire was made on a hill adjacent to thecamp, and in the morning it was replenished with fuel so as to lastthroughout the day. These signals are usual among the Indians, to givewarnings to each other, or to call home straggling hunters; and suchis the transparency of the atmosphere in those elevated plains, thata slight column of smoke can be discerned from a great distance, particularly in the evenings. Two or three days elapsed, however, without the reappearance of the three hunters; and Mr. Hunt slackenedhis march to give them time to overtake him. 

A vigilant watch continued to be kept upon the movements of Rose, andof such of the men as were considered doubtful in their loyalty; butnothing occurred to excite immediate apprehensions. Rose evidently wasnot a favorite among his comrades, and it was hoped that he had not beenable to make any real partisans. 

On the 10th of August they encamped among hills, on the highest peak ofwhich Mr. Hunt caused a huge pyre of pine wood to be made, which soonsent up a great column of flame that might be seen far and wide overthe prairies. This fire blazed all night, and was amply replenished atdaybreak; so that the towering pillar of smoke could not but be descriedby the wanderers if within the distance of a day's journey. 

It is a common occurrence in these regions, where the features of thecountry so much resemble each other, for hunters to lose themselves andwander for many days, before they can find their way back to the mainbody of their party. In the present instance, however, a more thancommon solicitude was felt, in consequence of the distrust awakened bythe sinister designs of Rose. 

The route now became excessively toilsome, over a ridge of steeprocky hills, covered with loose stones. These were intersected by deepvalleys, formed by two branches of Big River, coming from the southof west, both of which they crossed. These streams were bordered bymeadows, well stocked with buffaloes. Loads of meat were brought in bythe hunters; but the travellers were rendered dainty by profusion, andwould cook only the choice pieces. 

They had now travelled for several days at a very slow rate, and hadmade signal-fires and left traces of their route at every stage, yetnothing was heard or seen of the lost men. It began to be feared thatthey might have fallen into the hands of some lurking band of savages. A party numerous as that of Mr. Hunt, with a long train of pack horses, moving across plains or naked hills, is discoverable at a great distanceby Indian scouts, who spread the intelligence rapidly to various points, and assemble their friends to hang about the skirts of the travellers, steal their horses, or cut off any stragglers from the main body. 

Mr. Hunt and his companions were more and more sensible how much itwould be in the power of this sullen and daring vagabond Rose, to dothem mischief, when they should become entangled in the defiles of themountains, with the passes of which they were wholly unacquainted, andwhich were infested by his freebooting friends, the Crows. There, shouldhe succeed in seducing some of the party into his plans, he might carryoff the best horses and effects, throw himself among his savage allies, and set all pursuit at defiance. Mr. Hunt resolved, therefore, tofrustrate the knave, divert him, by management, from his plans, and makeit sufficiently advantageous for him to remain honest. 

He took occasion, accordingly, in the course of conversation, to informRose that, having engaged him chiefly as a guide and interpreter throughthe country of the Crows, they would not stand in need of his servicesbeyond. Knowing, therefore, his connection by marriage with that tribe, and his predilection for a residence among them, they would put norestraint upon his will, but, whenever they met with a party of thatpeople, would leave him at liberty to remain among his adopted brethren. Furthermore, that, in thus parting with him, they would pay him a half ayear's wages in consideration of his past services, and would give hima horse, three beaver traps, and sundry other articles calculated to sethim up in the world. 

This unexpected liberality, which made it nearly as profitable andinfinitely less hazardous for Rose to remain honest than to play therogue, completely disarmed him. From that time his whole deportmentunderwent a change. His brow cleared up and appeared more cheerful; heleft off his sullen, skulking habits, and made no further attempts totamper with the faith of his comrades. 

On the 13th of August Mr. Hunt varied his course, and inclined westward, in hopes of falling in with the three lost hunters; who, it was nowthought, might have kept to the right hand of Big River. This coursesoon brought him to a fork of the Little Missouri, about a hundred yardswide, and resembling the great river of the same name in the strengthof its current, its turbid water, and the frequency of drift-wood andsunken trees. 

Rugged mountains appeared ahead, crowding down to the water edge, andoffering a barrier to further progress on the side they were ascending. Crossing the river, therefore, they encamped on its northwest bank, where they found good pasturage and buffalo in abundance. The weatherwas overcast and rainy, and a general gloom pervaded the camp; thevoyageurs sat smoking in groups, with their shoulders as high as theirheads, croaking their foreboding, when suddenly towards evening ashout of joy gave notice that the lost men were found. They came slowlylagging into camp, with weary looks, and horses jaded and wayworn. Theyhad, in fact, been for several days incessantly on the move. In theirhunting excursion on the prairies they had pushed so far in pursuit ofbuffalo, as to find it impossible to retrace their steps over plainstrampled by innumerable herds; and were baffled by the monotony of thelandscape in their attempts to recall landmarks. They had ridden to andfro until they had almost lost the points of the compass, and becametotally bewildered; nor did they ever perceive any of the signal firesand columns of smoke made by their comrades. At length, about two dayspreviously, when almost spent by anxiety and hard riding, they came, to their great joy, upon the "trail" of the party, which they had sincefollowed up steadily. 

Those only who have experienced the warm cordiality that grows upbetween comrades in wild and adventurous expeditions of the kind, canpicture to themselves the hearty cheering with which the stragglers werewelcomed to the camp. Every one crowded round them to ask questions, and to hear the story of their mishaps; and even the squaw of the moodyhalf-breed, Pierre Dorion, forgot the sternness of his domestic rule, and the conjugal discipline of the cudgel, in her joy at his safereturn. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

 The Black Mountains. --Haunts of Predatory Indians. --Their Wild and Broken Appearance. --Superstitions Concerning Them-- Thunder Spirits. --Singular Noises in the Mountains--Secret Mines. -Hidden Treasures. --Mountains in Labor. --Scientific Explanation. -Impassable Defiles. --Black-Tailed Deer. -The Bighorn or Ahsahta. -Prospect From a Lofty Height. --Plain With Herds of Buffalo. -Distant Peaks of the Rocky Mountains. --Alarms in the Camp. -Tracks of Grizzly Bears. -- Dangerous Nature of This Animal. -Adventures of William Cannon and John Day With Grizzly Bears. 

MR. Hunt and his party were now on the skirts of the Black Hills, orBlack Mountains, as they are sometimes called; an extensive chain, lyingabout a hundred miles east of the Rocky Mountains, and stretching ina northeast direction from the south fork of the Nebraska, or PlatteRiver, to the great north bend of the Missouri. The Sierra or ridge ofthe Black Hills, in fact, forms the dividing line between the waters ofthe Missouri and those of the Arkansas and the Mississippi, and givesrise to the Cheyenne, the Little Missouri, and several tributary streamsof the Yellowstone. 

The wild recesses of these hills, like those of the Rocky Mountains, areretreats and lurking-places for broken and predatory tribes, and it wasamong them that the remnants of the Cheyenne tribe took refuge, as hasbeen stated, from their conquering enemies, the Sioux. 

The Black Hills are chiefly composed of sandstone, and in many placesare broken into savage cliffs and precipices, and present the mostsingular and fantastic forms; sometimes resembling towns and castellatedfortresses. The ignorant inhabitants of plains are prone to clothethe mountains that bound their horizon with fanciful and superstitiousattributes. Thus the wandering tribes of the prairies, who oftenbehold clouds gathering round the summits of these hills, and lightningflashing, and thunder pealing from them, when all the neighboringplains are serene and sunny, consider them the abode of the genii orthunder-spirits who fabricate storms and tempests. On entering theirdefiles, therefore, they often hang offerings on the trees, or placethem on the rocks, to propitiate the invisible "lords of the mountains, "and procure good weather and successful hunting; and they attach unusualsignificance to the echoes which haunt the precipices. This superstitionmay also have arisen, in part, from a natural phenomenon of a singularnature. In the most calm and serene weather, and at all times of theday or night, successive reports are now and then heard among thesemountains, resembling the discharge of several pieces of artillery. Similar reports were heard by Messrs. Lewis and Clarke in the RockyMountains, which they say were attributed by the Indians to the burstingof the rich mines of silver contained in the bosom of the mountains. 

In fact, these singular explosions have received fanciful explanationsfrom learned men, and have not been satisfactorily accounted for even byphilosophers. They are said to occur frequently in Brazil. Vasconcelles, Jesuit father, describes one which he heard in the Sierra, or mountainregion of Piratininga, and which he compares to the discharges of a parkof artillery. The Indians told him that it was an explosion of stones. The worthy father had soon a satisfactory proof of the truth of theirinformation, for the very place was found where a rock had burst andexploded from its entrails a stony mass, like a bomb-shell, and of thesize of a bull's heart. This mass was broken either in its ejection orits fall, and wonderful was the internal organization revealed. It had ashell harder even than iron; within which were arranged, like theseeds of a pomegranate, jewels of various colors; some transparentas crystals; others of a fine red, and others of mixed hues. The samephenomenon is said to occur occasionally in the adjacent province ofGuayra, where stones of the bigness of a man's hand are exploded, witha loud noise, from the bosom of the earth, and scatter about glitteringand beautiful fragments that look like precious gems, but are of novalue. 

The Indians of the Orellanna, also, tell of horrible noises heardoccasionally in the Paraguaxo, which they consider the throes and groansof the mountains, endeavoring to cast forth the precious stones hiddenwithin its entrails. Others have endeavored to account for thesedischarges of "mountain artillery" on humbler principles; attributingthem to the loud reports made by the disruption and fall of greatmasses of rock, reverberated and prolonged by the echoes; others, to thedisengagement of hydrogen, produced by subterraneous beds of coal ina state of ignition. In whatever way this singular phenomenon may beaccounted for, the existence of it appears to be well established. Itremains one of the lingering mysteries of nature which throw somethingof a supernatural charm over her wild mountain solitudes; and we doubtwhether the imaginative reader will not rather join with the poor Indianin attributing it to the thunderspirits, or the guardian genii of unseentreasures, than to any commonplace physical cause. 

Whatever might be the supernatural influences among these mountains, the travellers found their physical difficulties hard to cope with. Theymade repeated attempts to find a passage through or over the chain, butwere as often turned back by impassable barriers. Sometimes a defileseemed to open a practicable path, but it would terminate in some wildchaos of rocks and cliffs, which it was impossible to climb. The animalsof these solitary regions were different from those they had beenaccustomed to. The black-tailed deer would bound up the ravines on theirapproach, and the bighorn would gaze fearlessly down upon them from someimpending precipice, or skip playfully from rock to rock. These animalsare only to be met with in mountainous regions. The former is largerthan the common deer, but its flesh is not equally esteemed by hunters. It has very large ears, and the tip of the tail is black, from which itderives its name. 

The bighorn is so named from its horns; which are of a great size, andtwisted like those of a ram. It is called by some the argali, by othersthe ibex, though differing from both of these animals. The Mandans callit the ahsahta, a name much better than the clumsy appellation which itgenerally bears. It is of the size of a small elk, or large deer, and ofa dun color, excepting the belly and round the tail, where it is white. In its habits it resembles the goat, frequenting the rudest precipices;cropping the herbage from their edges; and like the chamois, boundinglightly and securely among dizzy heights, where the hunter dares notventure. It is difficult, therefore, to get within shot of it. Ben Jonesthe hunter, however, in one of the passes of the Black Hills, succeededin bringing down a bighorn from the verge of a precipice, the flesh ofwhich was pronounced by the gormands of the camp to have the flavor ofexcellent mutton. 

Baffled in his attempts to traverse this mountain chain, Mr. Huntskirted along it to the southwest, keeping it on the right; and still inhopes of finding an opening. At an early hour one day, he encamped ina narrow valley on the banks of a beautifully clear but rushy pool;surrounded by thickets bearing abundance of wild cherries, currants, andyellow and purple gooseberries. 

While the afternoon's meal was in preparation, Mr. Hunt and Mr. M'Kenzieascended to the summit of the nearest hill, from whence, aided by thepurity and transparency of the evening atmosphere, they commanded avast prospect on all sides. Below them extended a plain, dotted withinnumerable herds of buffalo. Some were lying among the herbage, othersroaming in their unbounded pastures, while many were engaged in fiercecontests like those already described, their low bellowings reaching theear like the hoarse murmurs of the surf on a distant shore. 

Far off in the west they descried a range of lofty mountains printingthe clear horizon, some of them evidently capped with snow. These theysupposed to be the Bighorn Mountains, so called from the animal of thatname, with which they abound. They are a spur of the great Rocky chain. The hill from whence Mr. Hunt had this prospect was, according tohis computation, about two hundred and fifty miles from the Arickaravillage. 

On returning to the camp, Mr. Hunt found some uneasiness prevailingamong the Canadian voyageurs. In straying among the thickets they hadbeheld tracks of grizzly bears in every direction, doubtless attractedthither by the fruit. To their dismay, they now found that they hadencamped in one of the favorite resorts of this dreaded animal. Theidea marred all the comfort of the encampment. As night closed, thesurrounding thickets were peopled with terrors; insomuch that, accordingto Mr. Hunt, they could not help starting at every little breeze thatstirred the bushes. 

The grizzly bear is the only really formidable quadruped of ourcontinent. He is the favorite theme of the hunters of the far West, who describe him as equal in size to a common cow and of prodigiousstrength. He makes battle if assailed, and often, if pressed by hunger, is the assailant. If wounded, he becomes furious and will pursue thehunter. His speed exceeds that of a man but is inferior to that of ahorse. In attacking he rears himself on his hind legs, and springs thelength of his body. Woe to horse or rider that comes within the sweep ofhis terrific claws, which are sometimes nine inches in length, and teareverything before them. 

At the time we are treating of, the grizzly bear was still frequenton the Missouri and in the lower country, but, like some of the brokentribes of the prairie, he has gradually fallen back before his enemies, and is now chiefly to be found in the upland regions, in ruggedfastnesses like those of the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains. Herehe lurks in caverns, or holes which he has digged in the sides of hills, or under the roots and trunks of fallen trees. Like the common bear, heis fond of fruits, and mast, and roots, the latter of which he will digup with his foreclaws. He is carnivorous also, and will even attackand conquer the lordly buffalo, dragging his huge carcass to theneighborhood of his den, that he may prey upon it at his leisure. 

The hunters, both white and red men, consider this the most heroicgame. They prefer to hunt him on horseback, and will venture so near assometimes to singe his hair with the flash of the rifle. The hunter ofthe grizzly bear, however, must be an experienced hand, and know whereto aim at a vital part; for of all quadrupeds, he is the most difficultto be killed. He will receive repeated wounds without flinching, andrarely is a shot mortal unless through the head or heart. 

That the dangers apprehended from the grizzly bear, at this nightencampment, were not imaginary, was proved on the following morning. Among the hired men of the party was one William Cannon, who had been asoldier at one of the frontier posts, and entered into the employ of Mr. Hunt at Mackinaw. He was an inexperienced hunter and a poor shot, forwhich he was much bantered by his more adroit comrades. Piqued attheir raillery, he had been practicing ever since he had joined theexpedition, but without success. In the course of the present afternoon, he went forth by himself to take a lesson in venerie and, to hisgreat delight, had the good fortune to kill a buffalo. As he was aconsiderable distance from the camp, he cut out the tongue and someof the choice bits, made them into a parcel, and slinging them on hisshoulders by a strap passed round his forehead, as the voyageurs carrypackages of goods, set out all glorious for the camp, anticipating atriumph over his brother hunters. In passing through a narrow ravine, he heard a noise behind him, and looking round beheld, to his dismay, agrizzly bear in full pursuit, apparently attracted by the scent of themeat. Cannon had heard so much of the invulnerability of this tremendousanimal, that he never attempted to fire, but, slipping the strap fromhis forehead, let go the buffalo meat and ran for his life. The bear didnot stop to regale himself with the game, but kept on after the hunter. He had nearly overtaken him when Cannon reached a tree, and, throwingdown his rifle scrambled up it. The next instant Bruin was at the footof the tree; but, as this species of bear does not climb, he contentedhimself with turning the chase into a blockade. Night came on. In thedarkness Cannon could not perceive whether or not the enemy maintainedhis station; but his fears pictured him rigorously mounting guard. Hepassed the night, therefore, in the tree, a prey to dismal fancies. In the morning the bear was gone. Cannon warily descended the tree, gathered up his gun, and made the best of his way back to the camp, without venturing to look after his buffalo meat. 

While on this theme we will add another anecdote of an adventure with agrizzly bear, told of John Day, the Kentucky hunter, but which happenedat a different period of the expedition. Day was hunting in company withone of the clerks of the company, a lively youngster, who was a greatfavorite with the veteran, but whose vivacity he had continually to keepin check. They were in search of deer, when suddenly a huge grizzly bearemerged from a thicket about thirty yards distant, rearing himself uponhis hind legs with a terrific growl, and displaying a hideous array ofteeth and claws. The rifle of the young man was leveled in an instant, but John Day's iron hand was as quickly upon his arm. "Be quiet, boy!be quiet!" exclaimed the hunter between his clenched teeth, and withoutturning his eyes from the bear. They remained motionless. The monsterregarded them for a time, then, lowering himself on his fore paws, slowly withdrew. He had not gone many paces, before he again returned, reared himself on his hind legs, and repeated his menace. Day's hand wasstill on the arm of his young companion; he again pressed it hard, andkept repeating between his teeth, "Quiet, boy!--keep quiet!--keepquiet!"--though the latter had not made a move since his firstprohibition. The bear again lowered himself on all fours, retreated sometwenty yards further, and again turned, reared, showed his teeth, andgrowled. This third menace was too much for the game spirit of John Day. "By Jove!" exclaimed he, "I can stand this no longer, " and in an instanta ball from his rifle whizzed into his foe. The wound was not mortal;but, luckily, it dismayed instead of enraged the animal, and heretreated into the thicket. 

Day's companion reproached him for not practicing the caution whichhe enjoined upon others. "Why, boy, " replied the veteran, "caution iscaution, but one must not put up with too much, even from a bear. Wouldyou have me suffer myself to be bullied all day by a varmint?"

CHAPTER XXVII. 

 Indian Trail. --Rough Mountain Travelling. --Sufferings From Hunger and Thirst--Powder River. --Game in Abundance. -A Hunter's Paradise. --Mountain Peak Seen at a Great Distance. -- One of the Bighorn Chain. --Rocky Mountains. --Extent. -- Appearance. --Height. -The Great American Desert. --Various Characteristics of the Mountains. --Indian Superstitions Concerning Them. --Land of Souls. --Towns of the Free and Generous Spirits--Happy Hunting Grounds. 

FOR the two following days, the travellers pursued a westerly course forthirty-four miles along a ridge of country dividing the tributary watersof the Missouri and the Yellowstone. As landmarks they guided themselvesby the summits of the far distant mountains, which they supposed tobelong to the Bighorn chain. They were gradually rising into a highertemperature, for the weather was cold for the season, with a sharp frostin the night, and ice of an eighth of an inch in thickness. 

On the twenty-second of August, early in the day, they came upon thetrail of a numerous band. Rose and the other hunters examined thefoot-prints with great attention, and determined it to be the trail ofa party of Crows, returning from an annual trading visit to the Mandans. As this trail afforded more commodious travelling, they immediatelystruck into it, and followed it for two days. It led them over roughhills, and through broken gullies, during which time they suffered greatfatigue from the ruggedness of the country. The weather, too, which hadrecently been frosty, was now oppressively warm, and there was agreat scarcity of water, insomuch that a valuable dog belonging to Mr. M'Kenzie died of thirst. 

At one time they had twenty-five miles of painful travel, without adrop of water, until they arrived at a small running stream. Here theyeagerly slaked their thirst; but, this being allayed, the calls ofhunger became equally importunate. Ever since they had got among thesebarren and arid hills where there was a deficiency of grass, they hadmet with no buffaloes; those animals keeping in the grassy meadows nearthe streams. They were obliged, therefore, to have recourse to theircorn meal, which they reserved for such emergencies. Some, however, were lucky enough to kill a wolf, which they cooked for supper, andpronounced excellent food. 

The next morning they resumed their wayfaring, hungry and jaded, and hada dogged march of eighteen miles among the same kind of hills. At lengththey emerged upon a stream of clear water, one of the forks of PowderRiver, and to their great joy beheld once more wide grassy meadows, stocked with herds of buffalo. For several days they kept along thebanks of the river, ascending it about eighteen miles. It was a hunter'sparadise; the buffaloes were in such abundance that they were enabledto kill as many as they pleased, and to jerk a sufficient supply of meatfor several days' journeying. Here, then, they reveled and reposed aftertheir hungry and weary travel, hunting and feasting, and reclining uponthe grass. Their quiet, however, was a little marred by coming upontraces of Indians, who, they concluded, must be Crows: they weretherefore obliged to keep a more vigilant watch than ever upon theirhorses. For several days they had been directing their march towardsthe lofty mountain descried by Mr. Hunt and Mr. M'Kenzie on the 17th ofAugust, the height of which rendered it a landmark over a vast extent ofcountry. At first it had appeared to them solitary and detached; butas they advanced towards it, it proved to be the principal summit of achain of mountains. Day by day it varied in form, or rather its lowerpeaks, and the summits of others of the chain emerged above the clearhorizon, and finally the inferior line of hills which connected most ofthem rose to view. So far, however, are objects discernible in the pureatmosphere of these elevated plains, that, from the place where theyfirst descried the main mountain, they had to travel a hundred and fiftymiles before they reached its base. Here they encamped on the 30th ofAugust, having come nearly four hundred miles since leaving the Arickaravillage. 

The mountain which now towered above them was one of the Bighorn chain, bordered by a river, of the same name, and extending for a long distancerather east of north and west of south. It was a part of the greatsystem of granite mountains which forms one of the most important andstriking features of North America, stretching parallel to the coast ofthe Pacific from the Isthmus of Panama almost to the Arctic Ocean; andpresenting a corresponding chain to that of the Andes in the southernhemisphere. This vast range has acquired, from its rugged and brokencharacter and its summits of naked granite, the appellation of the RockyMountains, a name by no means distinctive, as all elevated ranges arerocky. Among the early explorers it was known as the range of ChippewyanMountains, and this Indian name is the one it is likely to retainin poetic usage. Rising from the midst of vast plains and prairies, traversing several degrees of latitude, dividing the waters of theAtlantic and the Pacific, and seeming to bind with diverging ridgesthe level regions on its flanks, it has been figuratively termed thebackbone of the northern continent. 

The Rocky Mountains do not present a range of uniform elevation, butrather groups and occasionally detached peaks. Though some of these riseto the region of perpetual snows, and are upwards of eleven thousandfeet in real altitude, yet their height from their immediate basisis not so great as might be imagined, as they swell up from elevatedplains, several thousand feet above the level of the ocean. These plainsare often of a desolate sterility; mere sandy wastes, formed of thedetritus of the granite heights, destitute of trees and herbage, scorched by the ardent and reflected rays of the summer's sun, and inwinter swept by chilling blasts from the snow-clad mountains. Such isa great part of that vast region extending north and south along themountains, several hundred miles in width, which has not improperly beentermed the Great American Desert. It is a region that almost discouragesall hope of cultivation, and can only be traversed with safety bykeeping near the streams which intersect it. Extensive plains likewiseoccur among the higher regions of the mountains, of considerablefertility. Indeed, these lofty plats of table-land seem to form apeculiar feature in the American continents. Some occur among theCordilleras of the Andes, where cities, and towns, and cultivated farmsare to be seen eight thousand feet above the level of the sea. 

The Rocky Mountains, as we have already observed, occur sometimes singlyor in groups, and occasionally in collateral ridges. Between these aredeep valleys, with small streams winding through them, which find theirway into the lower plains, augmenting as they proceed, and ultimatelydischarging themselves into those vast rivers, which traverse theprairies like great arteries, and drain the continent. 

While the granitic summits of the Rocky Mountains are bleak and bare, many of the inferior ridges are scantily clothed with scrubbed pines, oaks, cedar, and furze. Various parts of the mountains also bear tracesof volcanic action. Some of the interior valleys are strewed with scoriaand broken stones, evidently of volcanic origin; the surrounding rocksbear the like character, and vestiges of extinguished craters are to beseen on the elevated heights. 

We have already noticed the superstitious feelings with which theIndians regard the Black Hills; but this immense range of mountains, which divides all that they know of the world, and gives birth to suchmighty rivers, is still more an object of awe and veneration. They callit "the crest of the world, " and think that Wacondah, or the master oflife, as they designate the Supreme Being, has his residence amongthese aerial heights. The tribes on the eastern prairies call themthe mountains of the setting sun. Some of them place the "happyhunting-grounds, " their ideal paradise, among the recesses of thesemountains; but say that they are invisible to living men. Here also isthe "Land of Souls, " in which are the "towns of the free and generousspirits, " where those who have pleased the master of life while living, enjoy after death all manner of delights. 

Wonders are told of these mountains by the distant tribes, whosewarriors or hunters have ever wandered in their neighborhood. It isthought by some that, after death, they will have to travel to thesemountains and ascend one of their highest and most rugged peaks, amongrocks and snows and tumbling torrents. After many moons of painful toilthey will reach the summit, from whence they will have a view over theland of souls. There they will see the happy hunting-grounds, with thesouls of the brave and good living in tents in green meadows, by brightrunning streams, or hunting the herds of buffalo, and elk, and deer, which have been slain on earth. There, too, they will see the villagesor towns of the free and generous spirits brightening in the midst ofdelicious prairies. If they have acquitted themselves well while living, they will be permitted to descend and enjoy this happy country; ifotherwise they will but be tantalized with this prospect of it, andthen hurled back from the mountain to wander about the sandy plains, andendure the eternal pangs of unsatisfied thirst and hunger. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

 Region of the Crow Indians--Scouts on the Lookout--Visit From a Crew of Hard Riders. --A Crow Camp. --Presents to the Crow Chief. -Bargaining. -Crow Bullies. -Rose Among His Indian Friends. -Parting With the Crows. --Perplexities Among the Mountains. --More of the Crows. --Equestrian Children. --Search After Stragglers. 

THE travellers had now arrived in the vicinity of the mountain regionsinfested by the Crow Indians. These restless marauders, as has alreadybeen observed, are apt to be continually on the prowl about the skirtsof the mountains; and even when encamped in some deep and secludedglen, they keep scouts upon the cliffs and promontories, who, unseenthemselves, can discern every living thing that moves over the subjacentplains and valleys. It was not to be expected that our travellers couldpass unseen through a region thus vigilantly sentineled; accordingly, inthe edge of the evening, not long after they had encamped at the footof the Bighorn Sierra, a couple of wild-looking beings, scantily cladin skins, but well armed, and mounted on horses as wild-looking asthemselves, were seen approaching with great caution from among therocks. They might have been mistaken for two of the evil spirits of themountains so formidable in Indian fable. 

Rose was immediately sent out to hold a parley with them, and invitethem to the camp. They proved to be two scouts from the same band thathad been tracked for some days past, and which was now encamped at somedistance in the folds of the mountain. They were easily prevailed uponto come to the camp, where they were well received, and, after remainingthere until late in the evening, departed to make a report of all theyhad seen and experienced to their companions. 

The following day had scarce dawned, when a troop of these wild mountainscamperers came galloping with whoops and yells into the camp, bringingan invitation from their chief for the white men to visit him. The tentswere accordingly struck, the horses laden, and the party were soon onthe march. The Crow horsemen, as they escorted them, appeared to takepride in showing off their equestrian skill and hardihood; careeringat full speed on their half-savage steeds, and dashing among rocks andcrags, and up and down the most rugged and dangerous places with perfectease and unconcern. 

A ride of sixteen miles brought them, in the afternoon, in sight of theCrow camp. It was composed of leathern tents, pitched in a meadow onthe border of a small clear stream at the foot of the mountain. A greatnumber of horses were grazing in the vicinity, many of them doubtlesscaptured in marauding excursions. 

The Crow chieftain came forth to meet his guests with great professionsof friendship, and conducted them to his tents, pointing out, by theway, a convenient place where they might fix their camp. No sooner hadthey done so, than Mr. Hunt opened some of the packages and made thechief a present of a scarlet blanket and a quantity of powder and ball;he gave him also some knives, trinkets, and tobacco to be distributedamong his warriors, with all which the grim potentate seemed, for thetime, well pleased. As the Crows, however, were reputed to be perfidiousin the extreme, and as errant freebooters as the bird after which theywere so worthily named; and as their general feelings towards the whiteswere known to be by no means friendly, the intercourse with them wasconducted with great circumspection. 

The following day was passed in trading with the Crows for buffalo robesand skins, and in bartering galled and jaded horses for others that werein good condition. Some of the men, also, purchased horses on their ownaccount, so that the number now amounted to one hundred and twenty-one, most of them sound and active, and fit for mountain service. 

Their wants being supplied, they ceased all further traffic, much to thedissatisfaction of the Crows, who became extremely urgent to continuethe trade, and, finding their importunities of no avail, assumed aninsolent and menacing tone. All this was attributed by Mr. Hunt and hisassociates to the perfidious instigations of Rose the interpreter, whomthey suspected of the desire to foment ill-will between them and thesavages, for the promotion of his nefarious plans. M'Lellan, with hisusual tranchant mode of dealing out justice, resolved to shoot thedesperado on the spot in case of any outbreak. Nothing of the kind, however, occurred. The Crows were probably daunted by the resolute, though quiet demeanor of the white men, and the constant vigilance andarmed preparations which they maintained; and Rose, if he reallystill harbored his knavish designs, must have perceived that they weresuspected, and, if attempted to be carried into effect, might bring ruinon his own head. 

The next morning, bright and early, Mr. Hunt proposed to resume hisjourneying. He took a ceremonious leave of the Crow chieftain, and hisvagabond warriors, and according to previous arrangements, consignedto their cherishing friendship and fraternal adoption, their worthyconfederate Rose; who, having figured among the water pirates of theMississippi, was well fitted to rise to distinction among the landpirates of the Rocky Mountains. 

It is proper to add, that the ruffian was well received among the tribe, and appeared to be perfectly satisfied with the compromise he had made;feeling much more at his ease among savages than among white men. It isoutcasts from justice, and heartless desperadoes of this kind who sowthe seeds of enmity and bitterness among the unfortunate tribes ofthe frontier. There is no enemy so implacable against a country or acommunity as one of its own people who has rendered himself an alien byhis crimes. 

Right glad to be delivered from this treacherous companion, Mr. Huntpursued his course along the skirts of the mountain, in a southerndirection, seeking for some practicable defile by which he might passthrough it; none such presented, however, in the course of fifteenmiles, and he encamped on a small stream, still on the outskirts. Thegreen meadows which border these mountain streams are generally wellstocked with game, and the hunters killed several fat elks, whichsupplied the camp with fresh meat. In the evening the travellers weresurprised by an unwelcome visit from several Crows belonging to adifferent band from that which they recently left, and who said theircamp was among the mountains. The consciousness of being environed bysuch dangerous neighbors, and of being still within the range of Roseand his fellow ruffians, obliged the party to be continually on thealert, and to maintain weary vigils throughout the night, lest theyshould be robbed of their horses. 

On the third of September, finding that the mountain still stretchedonwards, presenting a continued barrier, they endeavored to force apassage to the westward, but soon became entangled among rocks andprecipices which set all their efforts at defiance. The mountain seemed, for the most part, rugged, bare, and sterile; yet here and there it wasclothed with pines, and with shrubs and flowering plants, some of whichwere in bloom. In tolling among these weary places, their thirst becameexcessive, for no water was to be met with. Numbers of the men wanderedoff into rocky dells and ravines in hopes of finding some brook orfountain; some of whom lost their way and did not rejoin the main party. 

After a day of painful and fruitless scrambling, Mr. Hunt gave up theattempt to penetrate in this direction, and, returning to the littlestream on the skirts of the mountain, pitched his tents within six milesof his encampment of the preceding night. He now ordered that signalsshould be made for the stragglers in quest of water; but the nightpassed away without their return. 

The next morning, to their surprise, Rose made his appearance at thecamp, accompanied by some of his Crow associates. His unwelcome visitrevived their suspicions; but he announced himself as a messenger ofgood-will from the chief, who, finding they had taken the wrong road, had sent Rose and his companions to guide them to a nearer and betterone across the mountain. 

Having no choice, being themselves utterly at fault, they set out underthis questionable escort. They had not gone far before they fell in withthe whole party of Crows, who, they now found, were going the same roadwith themselves. The two cavalcades of white and red men, therefore, pushed on together, and presented a wild and picturesque spectacle, as, equipped with various weapons and in various garbs, with trains ofpack-horses, they wound in long lines through the rugged defiles, and upand down the crags and steeps of the mountain. 

The travellers had again an opportunity to see and admire the equestrianhabitudes and address of this hard-riding tribe. They were all mounted, man, woman, and child, for the Crows have horses in abundance, so thatno one goes on foot. The children are perfect imps on horseback. Amongthem was one so young that he could not yet speak. He was tied on a coltof two years old, but managed the reins as if by instinct, and pliedthe whip with true Indian prodigality. Mr. Hunt inquired the age of thisinfant jockey, and was answered that "he had seen two winters. "

This is almost realizing the fable of the centaurs; nor can we wonderat the equestrian adroitness of these savages, who are thus in a mannercradled in the saddle, and become in infancy almost identified with theanimal they bestride. 

The mountain defiles were exceedingly rough and broken, and thetravelling painful to the burdened horses. The party, therefore, proceeded but slowly, and were gradually left behind by the band ofCrows, who had taken the lead. It is more than probable that Mr. Huntloitered in his course, to get rid of such doubtful fellow-travellers. Certain it is that he felt a sensation of relief as he saw the wholecrew, the renegade Rose and all, disappear among the windings ofthe mountain, and heard the last yelp of the savages die away in thedistance. 

When they were fairly out of sight, and out of hearing, he encamped onthe head waters of the little stream of the preceding day, having comeabout sixteen miles. Here he remained all the succeeding day, as wellto give time for the Crows to get in the advance, as for the stragglers, who had wandered away in quest of water two days previously, to rejointhe camp. Indeed, considerable uneasiness began to be felt concerningthese men, lest they should become utterly bewildered in the defiles ofthe mountains, or should fall into the hands of some marauding band ofsavages. Some of the most experienced hunters were sent in search ofthem; others, in the meantime, employed themselves in hunting. Thenarrow valley in which they encamped being watered by a runningstream, yielded fresh pasturage, and though in the heart of the BighornMountains, was well stocked with buffalo. Several of these were killed, as also a grizzly bear. In the evening, to the satisfaction of allparties, the stragglers made their appearance, and provisions being inabundance, there was hearty good cheer in the camp. 

CHAPTER XXIX

 Mountain Glens. --Wandering Band of Savages--Anecdotes of Shoshonies and Flatheads. --Root Diggers--Their Solitary Lurking Habits. --Gnomes of the Mountains. --Wind River. -- Scarcity of Food. --Alteration of Route. --The Pilot Knobs or Tetons. --Branch of the Colorado. --Hunting Camp. 

RESUMING their course on the following morning, Mr. Hunt and hiscompanions continued on westward through a rugged region of hills androcks, but diversified in many places by grassy little glens, withsprings of water, bright sparkling brooks, clumps of pine trees, and aprofusion of flowering plants, which were in bloom, although the weatherwas frosty. These beautiful and verdant recesses, running through andsoftening the rugged mountains, were cheering and refreshing to thewayworn travellers. 

In the course of the morning, as they were entangled in a defile, theybeheld a small band of savages, as wild-looking as the surroundingscenery, who reconnoitred them warily from the rocks before theyventured to advance. Some of them were mounted on horses rudelycaparisoned with bridles or halters of buffalo hide, one end trailingafter them on the ground. They proved to be a mixed party of Flatheadsand Shoshonies, or Snakes; and as these tribes will be frequentlymentioned in the course of this work, we shall give a few introductoryparticulars concerning them. 

The Flatheads in question are not to be confounded with those of thename who dwell about the lower waters of the Columbia; neither do theyflatten their heads, as the others do. They inhabit the banks of a riveron the west side of the mountains, and are described as simple, honest, and hospitable. Like all people of similar character, whether civilizedor savage, they are prone to be imposed upon; and are especiallymaltreated by the ruthless Blackfeet, who harass them in their villages, steal their horses by night, or openly carry them off in the face ofday, without provoking pursuit or retaliation. 

The Shoshonies are a branch of the once powerful and prosperous tribeof the Snakes, who possessed a glorious hunting country about the upperforks of the Missouri, abounding in beaver and buffalo. Their huntingground was occasionally invaded by the Blackfeet, but the Snakes battledbravely for their domains, and a long and bloody feud existed, withvariable success. At length the Hudson's Bay Company, extending theirtrade into the interior, had dealings with the Blackfeet, who werenearest to them, and supplied them with fire-arms. The Snakes, whooccasionally traded with the Spaniards, endeavored, but in vain, toobtain similar weapons; the Spanish traders wisely refused to armthem so formidably. The Blackfeet had now a vast advantage, and soondispossessed the poor Snakes of their favorite hunting grounds, theirland of plenty, and drove them from place to place, until they were fainto take refuge in the wildest and most desolate recesses of the RockyMountains. Even here they are subject to occasional visits from theirimplacable foes, as long as they have horses, or any other property totempt the plunderer. Thus by degrees the Snakes have become a scattered, broken-spirited, impoverished people; keeping about lonely rivers andmountain streams, and subsisting chiefly upon fish. Such of them asstill possess horses, and occasionally figure as hunters, are calledShoshonies; but there is another class, the most abject and forlorn, whoare called Shuckers, or more commonly Diggers and Root Eaters. These area shy, secret, solitary race, who keep in the most retired parts of themountains, lurking like gnomes in caverns and clefts of the rocks, andsubsisting in a great measure on the roots of the earth. Sometimes, in passing through a solitary mountain valley, the traveller comesperchance upon the bleeding carcass of a deer or buffalo that has justbeen slain. He looks round in vain for the hunter; the whole landscapeis lifeless and deserted: at length he perceives a thread of smoke, curling up from among the crags and cliffs, and scrambling to the place, finds some forlorn and skulking brood of Diggers, terrified at beingdiscovered. 

The Shoshonies, however, who, as has been observed, have still "horse toride and weapon to wear, " are somewhat bolder in their spirit, and moreopen and wide in their wanderings. In the autumn, when salmon disappearfrom the rivers, and hunger begins to pinch, they even venture down intotheir ancient hunting grounds, to make a foray among the buffaloes. Inthis perilous enterprise they are occasionally joined by the Flatheads, the persecutions of the Blackfeet having produced a close allianceand cooperation between these luckless and maltreated tribes. Still, notwithstanding their united force, every step they take within thedebatable ground is taken in fear and trembling, and with the utmostprecaution: and an Indian trader assures us that he has seen at leastfive hundred of them, armed and equipped for action, and keeping watchupon the hill tops, while about fifty were hunting in the prairie. Theirexcursions are brief and hurried; as soon as they have collected andjerked sufficient buffalo meat for winter provisions, they pack theirhorses, abandon the dangerous hunting grounds, and hasten back to themountains, happy if they have not the terrible Blackfeet rattling afterthem. 

Such a confederate band of Shoshonies and Flatheads was the one metby our travellers. It was bound on a visit to the Arrapahoes, a tribeinhabiting the banks of the Nebraska. They were armed to the best oftheir scanty means, and some of the Shoshonies had bucklers of buffalohide, adorned with feathers and leathern fringes, and which have acharmed virtue in their eyes, from having been prepared, with mysticceremonies, by their conjurers. 

In company with this wandering band our travellers proceeded all day. In the evening they encamped near to each other in a defile of themountains, on the borders of a stream running north, and falling intoBighorn River. In the vicinity of the camp, they found gooseberries, strawberries, and currants in great abundance. The defile bore traces ofhaving been a thoroughfare for countless herds of buffaloes, though notone was to be seen. The hunters succeeded in killing an elk and severalblack-tailed deer. 

They were now in the bosom of the second Bighorn ridge, with anotherlofty and snow-crowned mountain full in view to the west. Fifteen milesof western course brought them, on the following day, down into anintervening plain, well stocked with buffalo. Here the Snakes andFlatheads joined with the white hunters in a successful hunt, that soonfilled the camp with provisions. 

On the morning of the 9th of September, the travellers parted companywith their Indian friends, and continued on their course to the west. A march of thirty miles brought them, in the evening, to the banks of arapid and beautifully clear stream about a hundred yards wide. It is thenorth fork or branch of the Bighorn River, but bears its peculiarname of the Wind River, from being subject in the winter season to acontinued blast which sweeps its banks and prevents the snow from lyingon them. This blast is said to be caused by a narrow gap or funnelin the mountains, through which the river forces its way betweenperpendicular precipices, resembling cut rocks. 

This river gives its name to a whole range of mountains consistingof three parallel chains, eighty miles in length, and about twenty ortwenty-five broad. One of its peaks is probably fifteen thousand feetabove the level of the sea, being one of the highest of the RockySierra. These mountains give rise, not merely to the Wind or BighornRiver, but to several branches of the Yellowstone and the Missouri onthe east, and of the Columbia and Colorado on the west; thus dividingthe sources of these mighty streams. 

For five succeeding days, Mr. Hunt and his party continued up the courseof the Wind River, to the distance of about eighty miles, crossing andrecrossing it, according to its windings, and the nature of its banks;sometimes passing through valleys, at other times scrambling over rocksand hills. The country in general was destitute of trees, but theypassed through groves of wormwood, eight and ten feet in height, whichthey used occasionally for fuel, and they met with large quantities ofwild flax. 

The mountains were destitute of game; they came in sight of two grizzlybears, but could not get near enough for a shot; provisions, therefore, began to be scanty. They saw large flights of the kind of thrushcommonly called the robin, and many smaller birds of migratory species;but the hills in general appeared lonely and with few signs of animallife. On the evening of the 14th September, they encamped on the forksof the Wind or Bighorn River. The largest of these forks came from therange of Wind River Mountains. 

The hunters who served as guides to the party in this part of theirroute, had assured Mr. Hunt that, by following up Wind River, andcrossing a single mountain ridge, he would come upon the head watersof the Columbia. This scarcity of game, however, which already had beenfelt to a pinching degree, and which threatened them with famine amongthe sterile heights which lay before them, admonished them to changetheir course. It was determined, therefore, to make for a stream, whichthey were informed passed the neighboring mountains, to the south ofwest, on the grassy banks of which it was probable they would meet withbuffalo. Accordingly, about three o'clock on the following day, meetingwith a beaten Indian road which led in the proper direction, they struckinto it, turning their backs upon Wind River. 

In the course of the day, they came to a height that commanded analmost boundless prospect. Here one of the guides paused, and, afterconsidering the vast landscape attentively, pointed to three mountainpeaks glistening with snow, which rose, he said, above a fork ofColumbia River. They were hailed by the travellers with that joy withwhich a beacon on a seashore is hailed by mariners after a long anddangerous voyage. 

It is true there was many a weary league to be traversed before theyshould reach these landmarks, for, allowing for their evident height andthe extreme transparency of the atmosphere, they could not be much lessthan a hundred miles distant. Even after reaching them, there would yetremain hundreds of miles of their journey to be accomplished. All thesematters were forgotten in the joy at seeing the first landmarks of theColumbia, that river which formed the bourne of the expedition. Theseremarkable peaks were known as the Tetons; as guiding points for manydays, to Mr. Hunt, he gave them the names of the Pilot Knobs. 

The travellers continued their course to the south of west for aboutforty miles, through a region so elevated that patches of snow lay onthe highest summits and on the northern declivities. At length they cameto the desired stream, the object of their search, the waters of whichflowed to the west. It was, in fact, a branch of the Colorado, whichfalls into the Gulf of California, and had received from the huntersthe name of Spanish River, from information given by the Indians thatSpaniards resided upon its lower waters. 

The aspect of this river and its vicinity was cheering to the waywornand hungry travellers. Its banks were green, and there were grassyvalleys running from it various directions, into the heart of the ruggedmountains, with herds of buffalo quietly grazing. The hunters salliedforth with keen alacrity, and soon returned laden with provisions. 

In this part of the mountains Mr. Hunt met with three different kinds ofgooseberries. The common purple, on a low and very thorny bush; a yellowkind, of an excellent flavor, growing on a stock free from thorns; anda deep purple, of the size and taste of our winter grape, with a thornystalk. There were also three kinds of currants, one very large and welltasted, of a purple color, and growing on a bush eight or nine feethigh. Another of a yellow color, and of the size and taste of the largered currant, the bush four or five feet high; and the third a beautifulscarlet, resembling the strawberry in sweetness, though rather insipid, and growing on a low bush. 

On the 17th they continued down the course of the river, making fifteenmiles to the southwest. The river abounded with geese and ducks, andthere were signs of its being inhabited by beaver and otters: indeedthey were now approaching regions where these animals, the great objectsof the fur trade, are said to abound. They encamped for the nightopposite the end of a mountain in the west, which was probably the lastchain of the Rocky Mountains. On the following morning they abandonedthe main course of the Spanish River, and taking a northwest directionfor eight miles, came upon one of its little tributaries, issuing out ofthe bosom of the mountains, and running through green meadows, yieldingpasturage to herds of buffalo. As these were probably the last of thatanimal they would meet with, they encamped on the grassy banks of theriver, determined to spend several days in hunting, so as to be able tojerk sufficient meat to supply them until they should reach the watersof the Columbia, where they trusted to find fish enough for theirsupport. A little repose, too, was necessary for both men and horses, after their rugged and incessant marching; having in the course of thelast seventeen days traversed two hundred and sixty miles of rough, andin many parts sterile, mountain country. 

CHAPTER XXX. 

 A Plentiful Hunting Camp. -Shoshonie Hunters--Hoback's River --Mad River--Encampment Near the Pilot Knobs. --A Consultation. --Preparations for a Perilous Voyage. 

FIVE days were passed by Mr. Hunt and his companions in the freshmeadows watered by the bright little mountain stream. The hunters madegreat havoc among the buffaloes, and brought in quantities of meat; thevoyageurs busied themselves about the fires, roasting and stewing forpresent purposes, or drying provisions for the journey; the pack-horses, eased of their burdens, rolled on the grass, or grazed at large aboutthe ample pasture; those of the party who had no call upon theirservices, indulged in the luxury of perfect relaxation, and the camppresented a picture of rude feasting and revelry, of mingled bustleand repose, characteristic of a halt in a fine hunting country. In thecourse of one of their excursions, some of the men came in sight ofa small party of Indians, who instantly fled in great apparentconsternation. They immediately retreated to camp with the intelligence:upon which Mr. Hunt and four others flung themselves upon their horses, and sallied forth to reconnoitre. After riding for about eight miles, they came upon a wild mountain scene. A lonely green valley stretchedbefore them, surrounded by rugged heights. A herd of buffalo werecareering madly through it, with a troop of savage horsemen in fullchase, plying them with their bows and arrows. The appearance of Mr. Hunt and his companions put an abrupt end to the hunt; the buffaloscuttled off in one direction, while the Indians plied their lashes andgalloped off in another, as fast as their steeds could carry them. Mr. Hunt gave chase; there was a sharp scamper, though of short continuance. Two young Indians, who were indifferently mounted, were soon overtaken. They were terribly frightened, and evidently gave themselves up forlost. By degrees their fears were allayed by kind treatment; but theycontinued to regard the strangers with a mixture of awe and wonder, forit was the first time in their lives they had ever seen a white man. 

They belonged to a party of Snakes who had come across the mountains ontheir autumnal hunting excursion to provide buffalo meat for thewinter. Being persuaded of the peaceful intentions of Mr. Hunt and hiscompanions, they willingly conducted them to their camp. It was pitchedin a narrow valley on the margin of a stream. The tents were of dressedskins, some of them fantastically painted; with horses grazing aboutthem. The approach of the party caused a transient alarm in the camp, for these poor Indians were ever on the look-out for cruel foes. Nosooner, however, did they recognize the garb and complexion of theirvisitors, than their apprehensions were changed into Joy; for some ofthem had dealt with white men, and knew them to be friendly, and toabound with articles of singular value. They welcomed them, therefore, to their tents, set food before them; and entertained them to the bestof their power. 

They had been successful in their hunt, and their camp was full ofjerked buffalo meat, all of the choicest kind, and extremely fat. Mr. Hunt purchased enough of them, in addition to what had been killedand cured by his own hunters, to load all the horses excepting thosereserved for the partners and the wife of Pierre Dorion. He found, also, a few beaver skins in their camp, for which he paid liberally, as aninducement to them to hunt for more; informing them that some of hisparty intended to live among the mountains, and trade with the nativehunters for their peltries. The poor Snakes soon comprehended theadvantages thus held out to them, and promised to exert themselves toprocure a quantity of beaver skins for future traffic. Being now wellsupplied with provisions, Mr. Hunt broke up his encampment on the 24thof September, and continued on to the west. A march of fifteen miles, over a mountain ridge, brought them to a stream about fifty feet inwidth, which Hoback, one of their guides, who had trapped about theneighborhood when in the service of Mr. Henry, recognized for one of thehead waters of the Columbia. The travellers hailed it with delight, as the first stream they had encountered tending toward their point ofdestination. They kept along it for two days, during which, from thecontribution of many rills and brooks, it gradually swelled into a smallriver. As it meandered among rocks and precipices, they were frequentlyobliged to ford it, and such was its rapidity that the men were often indanger of being swept away. Sometimes the banks advanced so close uponthe river that they were obliged to scramble up and down their ruggedpromontories, or to skirt along their bases where there was scarce afoothold. Their horses had dangerous falls in some of these passes. Oneof them rolled, with his load, nearly two hundred feet down hill intothe river, but without receiving any injury. At length they emerged fromthese stupendous defiles, and continued for several miles along the bankof Hoback's River, through one of the stern mountain valleys. Here itwas joined by a river of greater magnitude and swifter current, andtheir united waters swept off through the valley in one impetuousstream, which, from its rapidity and turbulence, had received the nameof the Mad River. At the confluence of these streams the travellersencamped. An important point in their arduous journey had been attained;a few miles from their camp rose the three vast snowy peaks called theTetons, or the Pilot Knobs, the great landmarks of the Columbia, bywhich they had shaped their course through this mountain wilderness. Bytheir feet flowed the rapid current of Mad River, a stream ample enoughto admit of the navigation of canoes, and down which they might possiblybe able to steer their course to the main body of the Columbia. The Canadian voyageurs rejoiced at the idea of once more launchingthemselves upon their favorite element; of exchanging their horses forcanoes, and of gliding down the bosoms of rivers, instead of scramblingover the backs of mountains. Others of the party, also, inexperienced inthis kind of travelling, considered their toils and troubles as drawingto a close. They had conquered the chief difficulties of this greatrocky barrier, and now flattered themselves with the hope of an easydownward course for the rest of their journey. Little did they dreamof the hardships and perils by land and water, which were yet to beencountered in the frightful wilderness that intervened between them andthe shores of the Pacific!

CHAPTER XXXI. 

 A Consultation Whether to Proceed by Land or Water-- Preparations for Boat-Building. --An Exploring Party. --A Party of Trappers Detached. --Two Snake Visitors. --Their Report Concerning the River. --Confirmed by the Exploring Party. --Mad River Abandoned. --Arrival at Henry's Fort. -- Detachment of Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner to Trap. --Mr. Miller Resolves to Accompany Them. --Their Departure. 

ON the banks of Mad River Mr. Hunt held a consultation with the otherpartners as to their future movements. The wild and impetuous currentof the river rendered him doubtful whether it might not abound withimpediments lower down, sufficient to render the navigation of it slowand perilous, if not impracticable. The hunters who had acted as guidesknew nothing of the character of the river below; what rocks, andshoals, and rapids might obstruct it, or through what mountains anddeserts it might pass. Should they then abandon their horses, castthemselves loose in fragile barks upon this wild, doubtful, and unknownriver; or should they continue their more toilsome and tedious, butperhaps more certain wayfaring by land?

The vote, as might have been expected, was almost unanimous forembarkation; for when men are in difficulties every change seems to befor the better. The difficulty now was to find timber of sufficient sizefor the construction of canoes, the trees in these high mountain regionsbeing chiefly a scrubbed growth of pines and cedars, aspens, haws, andservice-berries, and a small kind of cotton-tree, with a leaf resemblingthat of the willow. There was a species of large fir, but so full ofknots as to endanger the axe in hewing it. After searching for sometime, a growth of timber, of sufficient size, was found lower down theriver, whereupon the encampment was moved to the vicinity. 

The men were now set to work to fell trees, and the mountains echoed tothe unwonted sound of their axes. While preparations were thus going onfor a voyage down the river, Mr. Hunt, who still entertained doubts ofits practicability, despatched an exploring party, consisting ofJohn Reed, the clerk, John Day, the hunter, and Pierre Dorion, theinterpreter, with orders to proceed several days' march along thestream, and notice its course and character. 

After their departure, Mr. Hunt turned his thoughts to another object ofimportance. He had now arrived at the head waters of the Columbia, whichwere among the main points embraced by the enterprise of Mr. Astor. These upper streams were reputed to abound in beaver, and had as yetbeen unmolested by the white trapper. The numerous signs of beavermet with during the recent search for timber gave evidence that theneighborhood was a good "trapping ground. " Here, then, it was proper tobegin to cast loose those leashes of hardy trappers, that are detachedfrom trading parties, in the very heart of the wilderness. The mendetached in the present instance were Alexander Carson, Louis St. Michel, Pierre Detaye, and Pierre Delaunay. Trappers generally go inpairs, that they may assist, protect, and comfort each other in theirlonely and perilous occupations. Thus Carson and St. Michel formedone couple, and Detaye and Delaunay another. They were fitted out withtraps, arms, ammunition, horses, and every other requisite, and were totrap upon the upper part of Mad River, and upon the neighboring streamsof the mountains. This would probably occupy them for some months; and, when they should have collected a sufficient quantity of peltries, theywere to pack them upon their horses and make the best of their way tothe mouth of Columbia River, or to any intermediate post which mightbe established by the company. They took leave of their comrades andstarted off on their several courses with stout hearts and cheerfulcountenances; though these lonely cruisings into a wild and hostilewilderness seem to the uninitiated equivalent to being cast adrift inthe ship's yawl in the midst of the ocean. 

Of the perils that attend the lonely trapper, the reader will havesufficient proof, when he comes, in the after part of this work, tolearn the hard fortunes of these poor fellows in the course of theirwild peregrinations. 

The trappers had not long departed, when two Snake Indians wanderedinto the camp. When they perceived that the strangers were fabricatingcanoes, they shook their heads and gave them to understand that theriver was not navigable. Their information, however, was scoffed at bysome of the party, who were obstinately bent on embarkation, but wasconfirmed by the exploring party, who returned after several days'absence. They had kept along the river with great difficulty for twodays, and found it a narrow, crooked, turbulent stream, confined ina rocky channel, with many rapids, and occasionally overhung withprecipices. From the summit of one of these they had caught a bird's-eyeview of its boisterous career for a great distance through the heart ofthe mountain, with impending rocks and cliffs. Satisfied from this viewthat it was useless to follow its course, either by land or water, theyhad given up all further investigation. 

These concurring reports determined Mr. Hunt to abandon Mad River, andseek some more navigable stream. This determination was concurred in byall his associates excepting Mr. Miller, who had become impatient ofthe fatigue of land travel, and was for immediate embarkation at allhazards. This gentleman had been in a gloomy and irritated state of mindfor some time past, being troubled with a bodily malady that renderedtravelling on horseback extremely irksome to him, and being, moreover, discontented with having a smaller share in the expedition than hiscomrades. His unreasonable objections to a further march by land wereoverruled, and the party prepared to decamp. 

Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner, the three hunters who had hitherto servedas guides among the mountains, now stepped forward, and advised Mr. Huntto make for the post established during the preceding year by Mr. Henry, of the Missouri Fur Company. They had been with Mr. Henry, and, as faras they could judge by the neighboring landmarks, his post could not bevery far off. They presumed there could be but one intervening ridge ofmountains, which might be passed without any great difficulty. Henry'spost, or fort, was on an upper branch of the Columbia, down which theymade no doubt it would be easy to navigate in canoes. 

The two Snake Indians being questioned in the matter, showed a perfectknowledge of the situation of the post, and offered, with greatalacrity, to guide them to the place. Their offer was accepted, greatlyto the displeasure of Mr. Miller, who seemed obstinately bent uponbraving the perils of Mad River. 

The weather for a few days past had been stormy, with rain and sleet. The Rocky Mountains are subject to tempestuous winds from the west;these sometimes come in flaws or currents, making a path through theforests many yards in width, and whirling off trunks and branches toa great distance. The present storm subsided on the third of October, leaving all the surrounding heights covered with snow; for while rainhad fallen in the valley, it had snowed on the hill tops. 

On the 4th, they broke up their encampment, and crossed the river, thewater coming up to the girths of their horses. After travelling fourmiles, they encamped at the foot of the mountain, the last, as theyhoped, which they should have to traverse. Four days more took themacross it, and over several plains, watered by beautiful little streams, tributaries of Mad River. Near one of their encampments there was a hotspring continually emitting a cloud of vapor. These elevated plains, which give a peculiar character to the mountains, are frequented bylarge gangs of antelopes, fleet as the wind. 

On the evening of the 8th of October, after a cold wintry day, withgusts of westerly wind and flurries of snow, they arrived at thesought-for post of Mr. Henry. Here he had fixed himself, after beingcompelled by the hostilities of the Blackfeet, to abandon the upperwaters of the Missouri. The post, however, was deserted, for Mr. Henryhad left it in the course of the preceding spring, and, as it afterwardsappeared, had fallen in with Mr. Lisa, at the Arickara village on theMissouri, some time after the separation of Mr. Hunt and his party. 

The weary travellers gladly took possession of the deserted log hutswhich had formed the post, and which stood on the bank of a streamupwards of a hundred yards wide, on which they intended to embark. There being plenty of suitable timber in the neighborhood, Mr. Huntimmediately proceeded to construct canoes. As he would have to leavehis horses and their accoutrements here, he determined to make this atrading post, where the trappers and hunters, to be distributed aboutthe country, might repair; and where the traders might touch on theirway through the mountains to and from the establishment at the mouth ofthe Columbia. He informed the two Snake Indians of this determination, and engaged them to remain in that neighborhood and take care of thehorses until the white men should return, promising them ample rewardsfor their fidelity. It may seem a desperate chance to trust to the faithand honesty of two such vagabonds; but, as the horses would have, at allevents, to be abandoned, and would otherwise become the property of thefirst vagrant horde that should encounter them, it was one chance infavor of their being regained. 

At this place another detachment of hunters prepared to separate fromthe party for the purpose of trapping beaver. Three of these hadalready been in this neighborhood, being the veteran Robinson and hiscompanions, Hoback and Rezner, who had accompanied Mr. Henry across themountains, and who had been picked up by Mr. Hunt on the Missouri, ontheir way home to Kentucky. According to agreement they were fittedout with horses, traps, ammunition, and everything requisite for theirundertaking, and were to bring in all the peltries they should collect, either to this trading post, or to the establishment at the mouth ofColumbia River. Another hunter, of the name of Cass, was associated withthem in their enterprise. It is in this way that small knots of trappersand hunters are distributed about the wilderness by the fur companies, and like cranes and bitterns, haunt its solitary streams. Robinson, theKentuckian, the veteran of the "bloody ground, " who, as has alreadybeen noted, had been scalped by the Indians in his younger days, was theleader of this little band. When they were about to depart, Mr. Millercalled the partners together and threw up his share in the company, declaring his intention of joining the party of trappers. 

This resolution struck every one with astonishment, Mr. Miller beinga man of education and of cultivated habits, and little fitted forthe rude life of a hunter. Besides, the precarious and slender profitsarising from such a life were beneath the prospects of one who held ashare in the general enterprise. Mr. Hunt was especially concernedand mortified at his determination, as it was through his advice andinfluence he had entered into the concern. He endeavored, therefore, todissuade him from this sudden resolution; representing its rashness, and the hardships and perils to which it would expose him. He earnestlyadvised him, however he might feel dissatisfied with the enterprise, still to continue on in company until they should reach the mouth ofColumbia River. There they would meet the expedition that was to come bysea; when, should he still feel disposed to relinquish the undertaking, Mr. Hunt pledged himself to furnish him a passage home in one of thevessels belonging to the company. 

To all this Miller replied abruptly, that it was useless to argue withhim, as his mind was made up. They might furnish him, or not, as theypleased, with the necessary supplies, but he was determined to partcompany here, and set off with the trappers. So saying, he flung out oftheir presence without vouchsafing any further conversation. 

Much as this wayward conduct gave them anxiety, the partners saw it wasin vain to remonstrate. Every attention was paid to fit him out for hisheadstrong undertaking. He was provided with four horses, and all thearticles he required. The two Snakes undertook to conduct him andhis companions to an encampment of their tribe, lower down among themountains, from whom they would receive information as to the trappinggrounds. After thus guiding them, the Snakes were to return to FortHenry, as the new trading post was called, and take charge of the horseswhich the party would leave there, of which, after all the hunterswere supplied, there remained seventy-seven. These matters being allarranged, Mr. Miller set out with his companions, under guidance of thetwo Snakes, on the 10th of October; and much did it grieve the friendsof that gentleman to see him thus wantonly casting himself loose uponsavage life. How he and his comrades fared in the wilderness, and howthe Snakes acquitted themselves of their trust respecting the horses, will hereafter appear in the course of these rambling anecdotes. 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

 Scanty Fare. --A Mendicant Snake. --Embarkation on Henry River--Joy of the Voyageurs. -Arrival at Snake River. --Rapids and Breakers. --Beginning of Misfortunes. --Snake Encampments. --Parley With a Savage. --A Second Disaster. -- Loss of a Boatman. --The Caldron Linn. 

WHILE the canoes were in preparation, the hunters ranged about theneighborhood, but with little success. Tracks of buffaloes were to beseen in all directions, but none of a fresh date. There were some elk, but extremely wild; two only were killed. Antelopes were likewise seen, but too shy and fleet to be approached. A few beavers were takenevery night, and salmon trout of a small size, so that the camp hadprincipally to subsist upon dried buffalo meat. 

On the 14th, a poor, half-naked Snake Indian, one of that forlorn castecalled the Shuckers, or Diggers, made his appearance at the camp. Hecame from some lurking-place among the rocks and cliffs, and presenteda picture of that famishing wretchedness to which these lonely fugitivesamong the mountains are sometimes reduced. Having received wherewithalto allay his hunger, he disappeared, but in the course of a day or tworeturned to the camp, bringing with him his son, a miserable boy, still more naked and forlorn than himself. Food was given to both;they skulked about the camp like hungry hounds, seeking what they mightdevour, and having gathered up the feet and entrails of some beaversthat were lying about, slunk off with them to their den among the rocks. 

By the 18th of October, fifteen canoes were completed, and on thefollowing day the party embarked with their effects; leaving theirhorses grazing about the banks, and trusting to the honesty of the twoSnakes, and some special turn of good luck for their future recovery. 

The current bore them along at a rapid rate; the light spirits of theCanadian voyageurs, which had occasionally flagged upon land, rose totheir accustomed buoyancy on finding themselves again upon the water. They wielded their paddles with their wonted dexterity, and for thefirst time made the mountains echo with their favorite boat songs. 

In the course of the day the little squadron arrived at the confluenceof Henry and Mad Rivers, which, thus united, swelled into a beautifulstream of a light pea-green color, navigable for boats of any size, and which, from the place of junction, took the name of Snake River, astream doomed to be the scene of much disaster to the travellers. The banks were here and there fringed with willow thickets and smallcotton-wood trees. The weather was cold, and it snowed all day, andgreat flocks of ducks and geese, sporting in the water or streamingthrough the air, gave token that winter was at hand; yet the hearts ofthe travellers were light, and, as they glided down the little river, they flattered themselves with the hope of soon reaching the Columbia. After making thirty miles in a southerly direction, they encamped forthe night in a neighborhood which required some little vigilance, asthere were recent traces of grizzly bears among the thickets. 

On the following day the river increased in width and beauty; flowingparallel to a range of mountains on the left, which at times were finelyreflected in its light green waters. The three snowy summits of thePilot Knobs or Tetons were still seen towering in the distance. Afterpursuing a swift but placid course for twenty miles, the current beganto foam and brawl, and assume the wild and broken character common tothe streams west of the Rocky Mountains. In fact the rivers which flowfrom those mountains to the Pacific are essentially different from thosewhich traverse the prairies on their eastern declivities. The latter, though sometimes boisterous, are generally free from obstructions, andeasily navigated; but the rivers to the west of the mountains descendmore steeply and impetuously, and are continually liable to cascadesand rapids. The latter abounded in the part of the river which thetravellers were now descending. Two of the canoes filled among thebreakers; the crews were saved, but much of the lading was lost ordamaged, and one of the canoes drifted down the stream and was brokenamong the rocks. 

On the following day, October 21st, they made but a short distance whenthey came to a dangerous strait, where the river was compressed fornearly half a mile between perpendicular rocks, reducing it to the widthof twenty yards, and increasing its violence. Here they were obliged topass the canoes down cautiously by a line from the impending banks. Thisconsumed a great part of a day; and after they had reembarked they weresoon again impeded by rapids, when they had to unload their canoes andcarry them and their cargoes for some distance by land. It is at theseplaces, called "portages, " that the Canadian voyageur exhibits his mostvaluable qualities; carrying heavy burdens, and toiling to and fro, on land and in the water, over rocks and precipices, among brakes andbrambles, not only without a murmur, but with the greatest cheerfulnessand alacrity, joking and laughing and singing scraps of old Frenchditties. 

The spirits of the party, however, which had been elated on firstvarying their journeying from land to water, had now lost some of theirbuoyancy. Everything ahead was wrapped in uncertainty. They knew nothingof the river on which they were floating. It had never been navigatedby a white man, nor could they meet with an Indian to give themany information concerning it. It kept on its course through a vastwilderness of silent and apparently uninhabited mountains, without asavage wigwam upon its banks, or bark upon its waters. The difficultiesand perils they had already passed made them apprehend others beforethem, that might effectually bar their progress. As they glided onward, however, they regained heart and hope. The current continued to bestrong; but it was steady, and though they met with frequent rapids, none of them were bad. Mountains were constantly to be seen in differentdirections, but sometimes the swift river glided through prairies, andwas bordered by small cotton-wood trees and willows. These prairiesat certain seasons are ranged by migratory herds of the wide-wanderingbuffalo, the tracks of which, though not of recent date, were frequentlyto be seen. Here, too, were to be found the prickly pear or Indian fig, a plant which loves a more southern climate. On the land were largeflights of magpies and American robins; whole fleets of ducks and geesenavigated the river, or flew off in long streaming files at the approachof the canoes; while the frequent establishments of the painstaking andquiet-loving beaver showed that the solitude of these waters was rarelydisturbed, even by the all-pervading savage. 

They had now come near two hundred and eighty miles since leaving FortHenry, yet without seeing a human being, or a human habitation; a wildand desert solitude extended on either side of the river, apparentlyalmost destitute of animal life. At length, on the 24th of October, theywere gladdened by the sight of some savage tents, and hastened to landand visit them, for they were anxious to procure information to guidethem on their route. On their approach, however, the savages fled inconsternation. They proved to be a wandering band of Shoshonies. Intheir tents were great quantities of small fish about two inches long, together with roots and seeds, or grain, which they were drying forwinter provisions. They appeared to be destitute of tools of any kind, yet there were bows and arrows very well made; the former were formed ofpine, cedar, or bone, strengthened by sinews, and the latter of the woodof rosebushes, and other crooked plants, but carefully straightened, andtipped with stone of a bottle-green color. 

There were also vessels of willow and grass, so closely wrought as tohold water, and a seine neatly made with meshes, in the ordinary manner, of the fibres of wild flax or nettle. The humble effects of the poorsavages remained unmolested by their visitors, and a few small articles, with a knife or two, were left in the camp, and were no doubt regardedas invaluable prizes. 

Shortly after leaving this deserted camp, and reembarking in the canoes, the travellers met with three of the Snakes on a triangular raft made offlags or reeds; such was their rude mode of navigating the river. Theywere entirely naked excepting small mantles of hare skins over theirshoulders. The canoes approached near enough to gain a full view ofthem, but they were not to be brought to a parley. 

All further progress for the day was barred by a fall in the river ofabout thirty feet perpendicular; at the head of which the party encampedfor the night. 

The next day was one of excessive toil and but little progress: theriver winding through a wild rocky country, and being interrupted byfrequent rapids, among which the canoes were in great peril. On thesucceeding day they again visited a camp of wandering Snakes, but theinhabitants fled with terror at the sight of a fleet of canoes, filledwith white men, coming down their solitary river. 

As Mr. Hunt was extremely anxious to gain information concerning hisroute, he endeavored by all kinds of friendly signs to entice back thefugitives. At length one, who was on horseback, ventured back with fearand trembling. He was better clad, and in better condition, than mostof his vagrant tribe that Mr. Hunt had yet seen. The chief object ofhis return appeared to be to intercede for a quantity of dried meat andsalmon trout, which he had left behind; on which, probably, hedepended for his winter's subsistence. The poor wretch approached withhesitation, the alternate dread of famine and of white men operatingupon his mind. He made the most abject signs, imploring Mr. Hunt not tocarry off his food. The latter tried in every way to reassure him, andoffered him knives in exchange for his provisions; great as was thetemptation, the poor Snake could only prevail upon himself to spare apart; keeping a feverish watch over the rest, lest it should be takenaway. It was in vain Mr. Hunt made inquiries of him concerning hisroute, and the course of the river. The Indian was too much frightenedand bewildered to comprehend him or to reply; he did nothing butalternately commend himself to the protection of the Good Spirit, andsupplicate Mr. Hunt not to take away his fish and buffalo meat; and inthis state they left him, trembling about his treasures. 

In the course of that and the next day they made nearly eight miles;the river inclined to the south of west, and being clear and beautiful, nearly half a mile in width, with many populous communities of thebeaver along its banks. The 28th of October, however, was a day ofdisaster. The river again became rough and impetuous, and was chafed andbroken by numerous rapids. These grew more and more dangerous, and theutmost skill was required to steer among them. Mr. Crooks was seated inthe second canoe of the squadron, and had an old experienced Canadianfor steersman, named Antoine Clappine, one of the most valuable of thevoyageurs. The leading canoe had glided safely among the turbulent androaring surges, but in following it, Mr. Crooks perceived that his canoewas bearing towards a rock. He called out to the steersman, but hiswarning voice was either unheard or unheeded. In the next moment theystruck upon the rock. The canoe was split and overturned. There werefive persons on board. Mr. Crooks and one of his companions were thrownamidst roaring breakers and a whirling current, but succeeded, by strongswimming, to reach the shore. Clappine and two others clung to theshattered bark, and drifted with it to a rock. The wreck struck therock with one end, and swinging round, flung poor Clappine off intothe raging stream, which swept him away, and he perished. His comradessucceeded in getting upon the rock, from whence they were afterwardstaken off. 

This disastrous event brought the whole squadron to a halt, and strucka chill into every bosom. Indeed they had arrived at a terrific strait, that forbade all further progress in the canoes, and dismayed the mostexperienced voyageur. The whole body of the river was compressed intoa space of less than thirty feet in width, between two ledges of rocks, upwards of two hundred feet high, and formed a whirling and tumultuousvortex, so frightfully agitated as to receive the name of "The CaldronLinn. " Beyond this fearful abyss, the river kept raging and roaring on, until lost to sight among impending precipices. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

 Gloomy Council. --Exploring Parties--Discouraging Reports-- Disastrous Experiment. --Detachments in Quest of Succor. -- Caches, How Made. --Return of One of the Detachments-- Unsuccessful. --Further Disappointments--The Devil's Scuttle-Hole

MR. HUNT and his companions encamped upon the borders of the CaldronLinn, and held gloomy counsel as to their future course. The recentwreck had dismayed even the voyageurs, and the fate of their popularcomrade, Clappine, one of the most adroit and experienced of theirfraternity, had struck sorrow to their hearts, for with all theirlevity, these thoughtless beings have great kindness towards each other. 

The whole distance they had navigated since leaving Henry's Fort wascomputed to be about three hundred and forty miles; strong apprehensionswere now entertained that the tremendous impediments before them wouldoblige them to abandon their canoes. It was determined to send exploringparties on each side of the river to ascertain whether it was possibleto navigate it further. Accordingly, on the following morning, three menwere despatched along the south bank, while Mr. Hunt and three othersproceeded along the north. The two parties returned after aweary scramble among swamps, rocks, and precipices, and with verydisheartening accounts. For nearly forty miles that they had explored, the river foamed and roared along through a deep and narrow channel, from twenty to thirty yards wide, which it had worn, in the course ofages, through the heart of a barren, rocky country. The precipiceson each side were often two and three hundred feet high, sometimesperpendicular, and sometimes overhanging, so that it was impossible, excepting in one or two places, to get down to the margin of the stream. This dreary strait was rendered the more dangerous by frequent rapids, and occasionally perpendicular falls from ten to forty feet in height;so that it seemed almost hopeless to attempt to pass the canoes down it. The party, however, who had explored the south side of the river, hadfound a place, about six miles from the camp, where they thought itpossible the canoes might be carried down the bank and launched uponthe stream, and from whence they might make their way with the aid ofoccasional portages. Four of the best canoes were accordingly selectedfor the experiment, and were transported to the place on the shouldersof sixteen of the men. At the same time Mr. Reed, the clerk, and threemen were detached to explore the river still further down than theprevious scouting parties had been, and at the same time to look out forIndians, from whom provisions might be obtained, and a supply of horses, should it be found necessary to proceed by land. 

The party who had been sent with the canoes returned on the followingday, weary and dejected. One of the canoes had been swept away with allthe weapons and effects of four of the voyageurs, in attempting to passit down a rapid by means of a line. The other three had stuck fast amongthe rocks, so that it was impossible to move them; the men returned, therefore, in despair, and declared the river unnavigable. 

The situation of the unfortunate travellers was now gloomy in theextreme. They were in the heart of an unknown wilderness, untraversed asyet by a white man. They were at a loss what route to take, and how farthey were from the ultimate place of their destination, nor couldthey meet in these uninhabited wilds with any human being to give theminformation. The repeated accidents to their canoes had reduced theirstock of provisions to five days' allowance, and there was now everyappearance of soon having famine added to their other sufferings. 

This last circumstance rendered it more perilous to keep together thanto separate. Accordingly, after a little anxious but bewildered counsel, it was determined that several small detachments should start off indifferent directions, headed by the several partners. Should any ofthem succeed in falling in with friendly Indians, within a reasonabledistance, and obtaining a supply of provisions and horses, they wereto return to the aid of the main body: otherwise they were to shift forthemselves, and shape their course according to circumstances;keeping the mouth of the Columbia River as the ultimate point of theirwayfaring. Accordingly, three several parties set off from the camp atCaldron Linn, in opposite directions. Mr. M'Lellan, with three men, keptdown along the bank of the river. Mr. Crooks, with five others, turnedtheir steps up it; retracing by land the weary course they had made bywater, intending, should they not find relief nearer at hand, to keepon until they should reach Henry's Fort, where they hoped to find thehorses they had left there, and to return with them to the main body. 

The third party, composed of five men, was headed by Mr. M'Kenzie, whostruck to the northward, across the desert plains, in hopes of comingupon the main stream of the Columbia. 

Having seen these three adventurous bands depart upon their forlornexpeditions, Mr. Hunt turned his thoughts to provide for the subsistenceof the main body left to his charge, and to prepare for their futuremarch. There remained with him thirty-one men, besides the squaw andtwo children of Pierre Dorion. There was no game to be met with in theneighborhood; but beavers were occasionally trapped about the riverbanks, which afforded a scanty supply of food; in the meantime theycomforted themselves that some one or other of the foraging detachmentswould be successful, and return with relief. 

Mr. Hunt now set to work with all diligence, to prepare caches, in whichto deposit the baggage and merchandise, of which it would be necessaryto disburden themselves, preparatory to their weary march by land: andhere we shall give a brief description of those contrivances, so notedin the wilderness. 

A cache is a term common among traders and hunters, to designate ahiding-place for provisions and effects. It is derived from the Frenchword "cacher", to conceal, and originated among the early colonists ofCanada and Louisiana; but the secret depository which it designates wasin use among the aboriginals long before the intrusion of the white men. It is, in fact, the only mode that migratory hordes have of preservingtheir valuables from robbery, during their long absences from theirvillages or accustomed haunts, on hunting expeditions, or during thevicissitudes of war. The utmost skill and caution are required to renderthese places of concealment invisible to the lynx eye of an Indian. Thefirst care is to seek out a proper situation, which is generally somedry, low, bank of clay, on the margin of a water-course. As soon asthe precise spot is pitched upon, blankets, saddle-cloths, and othercoverings are spread over the surrounding grass and bushes, to preventfoot-tracks, or any other derangement; and as few hands as possible areemployed. A circle of about two feet in diameter is then nicely cut inthe sod, which is carefully removed, with the loose soil immediatelybeneath it, and laid aside in a place where it will be safe fromanything that may change its appearance. The uncovered area is thendigged perpendicularly to the depth of about three feet, and is thengradually widened so as to form a conical chamber six or seven feetdeep. The whole of the earth displaced by this process, being of adifferent color from that an the surface, is handed up in a vessel, andheaped into a skin or cloth, in which it is conveyed to the stream andthrown into the midst of the current, that it may be entirely carriedoff. Should the cache not be formed in the vicinity of a stream, theearth thus thrown up is carried to a distance, and scattered in suchmanner as not to leave the minutest trace. The cave, being formed, iswell lined with dry grass, bark, sticks, and poles, and occasionally adried hide. The property intended to be hidden is then laid in, afterhaving been well aired: a hide is spread over it, and dried grass, brush, and stones thrown in, and trampled down until the pit is filledto the neck. The loose soil which had been put aside is then broughtand rammed down firmly, to prevent its caving in, and is frequentlysprinkled with water, to destroy the scent, lest the wolves and bearsshould be attracted to the place, and root up the concealed treasure. When the neck of the cache is nearly level with the surrounding surface, the sod is again fitted in with the utmost exactness, and any bushes, stocks, or stones, that may have originally been about the spot, arerestored to their former places. The blankets and other coverings arethen removed from the surrounding herbage; all tracks are obliterated;the grass is gently raised by the hand to its natural position, and theminutest chip or straw is scrupulously gleaned up and thrown into thestream. After all this is done, the place is abandoned for the night, and, if all be right next morning, is not visited again, until there bea necessity for reopening the cache. Four men are sufficient, in thisway, to conceal the amount of three tons weight of merchandise in thecourse of two days. Nine caches were required to contain the goods andbaggage which Mr. Hunt found it necessary to leave at this place. 

Three days had been thus employed since the departure of the severaldetachments, when that of Mr. Crooks unexpectedly made its appearance. Amomentary joy was diffused through the camp, for they supposed succorto be at hand. It was soon dispelled. Mr. Crooks and his companions hadbeen completely disheartened by this retrograde march through a bleakand barren country; and had found, computing from their progress andthe accumulating difficulties besetting every step, that it would beimpossible to reach Henry's Fort and return to the main body in thecourse of the winter. They had determined, therefore, to rejoin theircomrades, and share their lot. 

One avenue of hope was thus closed upon the anxious sojourners at theCaldron Linn; their main expectation of relief was now from the twoparties under Reed and M'Lellan, which had proceeded down the river;for, as to Mr. M'Kenzie's detachment, which had struck across theplains, they thought it would have sufficient difficulty in strugglingforward through the trackless wilderness. For five days they continuedto support themselves by trapping and fishing. Some fish of tolerablesize were speared at night by the light of cedar torches; others, thatwere very small, were caught in nets with fine meshes. The productof their fishing, however, was very scanty. Their trapping was alsoprecarious; and the tails and bellies of the beavers were dried and putby for the journey. 

At length two of the companions of Mr. Reed returned, and were hailedwith the most anxious eagerness. Their report served but to increase thegeneral despondency. They had followed Mr. Reed for some distance belowthe point to which Mr. Hunt had explored, but had met with no Indiansfrom whom to obtain information and relief. The river still presentedthe same furious aspect, brawling and boiling along a narrow and ruggedchannel, between rocks that rose like walls. 

A lingering hope, which had been indulged by some of the party, ofproceeding by water, was now finally given up: the long and terrificstrait of the river set all further progress at defiance, and in theirdisgust at the place, and their vexation at the disasters sustainedthere, they gave it the indignant, though not very decorous, appellationof the Devil's Scuttle Hole. 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

 Determination of the Party to Proceed on Foot. --Dreary Deserts Between Snake River and the Columbia. --Distribution of Effects Preparatory to a March--Division of the Party. -- Rugged March Along the River. --Wild and Broken Scenery. -- Shoshonies. --Alarm of a Snake Encampment--Intercourse with the Snakes. --Horse Dealing. --Value of a Tin Kettle. -- Sufferings From Thirst--A Horse Reclaimed. --Fortitude of an Indian Woman. --Scarcity of Food. --Dog's Flesh a Dainty. --News of Mr. Crooks and His Party. --Painful Travelling Among the Mountains. --Snow Storms. --A Dreary Mountain Prospect. --A Bivouac During a Wintry Night. --Return to the River Bank. 

THE resolution of Mr. Hunt and his companions was now taken to set outimmediately on foot. As to the other detachments that had in a mannergone forth to seek their fortunes, there was little chance of theirreturn; they would probably make their own way through the wilderness. At any rate, to linger in the vague hope of relief from them would be torun the risk of perishing with hunger. Besides, the winter was rapidlyadvancing, and they had a long journey to make through an unknowncountry, where all kinds of perils might await them. They were yet, infact, a thousand miles from Astoria, but the distance was unknownto them at the time: everything before and around them was vague andconjectural, and wore an aspect calculated to inspire despondency. 

In abandoning the river, they would have to launch forth upon vasttrackless plains destitute of all means of subsistence, where they mightperish of hunger and thirst. A dreary desert of sand and gravel extendsfrom Snake River almost to the Columbia. Here and there is a thin andscanty herbage, insufficient for the pasturage of horse or buffalo. Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and thePacific are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper prairieson the Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that must everdefy cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds between thehabitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will often be indanger of perishing. 

Seeing the hopeless character of these wastes, Mr. Hunt and hiscompanions determined to keep along the course of the river, wherethey would always have water at hand, and would be able occasionallyto procure fish and beaver, and might perchance meet with Indians, fromwhom they could obtain provisions. 

They now made their final preparations for the march. All theirremaining stock of provisions consisted of forty pounds of Indian corn, twenty pounds of grease, about five pounds of portable soup, and asufficient quantity of dried meat to allow each man a pittance offive pounds and a quarter, to be reserved for emergencies. This beingproperly distributed, they deposited all their goods and superfluousarticles in the caches, taking nothing with them but what wasindispensable to the journey. With all their management, each man had tocarry twenty pounds' weight besides his own articles and equipments. 

That they might have the better chance of procuring subsistence in thescanty region they were to traverse, they divided their party intotwo bands. Mr. Hunt, with eighteen men, besides Pierre Dorion and hisfamily, was to proceed down the north side of the river, while Mr. Crooks, with eighteen men, kept along the south side. 

On the morning of the 9th of October, the two parties separated and setforth on their several courses. Mr. Hunt and his companions followedalong the right bank of the river, which made its way far below them, brawling at the foot of perpendicular precipices of solid rock, two andthree hundred feet high. For twenty-eight miles that they travelled thisday, they found it impossible to get down to the margin of the stream. At the end of this distance they encamped for the night at a place whichadmitted a scrambling descent. It was with the greatest difficulty, however, that they succeeded in getting up a kettle of water from theriver for the use of the camp. As some rain had fallen in the afternoon, they passed the night under the shelter of the rocks. 

The next day they continued thirty-two miles to the northwest, keepingalong the river, which still ran in its deep-cut channel. Here and therea shady beach or a narrow strip of soil, fringed with dwarf willows, would extend for a little distance along the foot of the cliffs, andsometimes a reach of still water would intervene like a smooth mirrorbetween the foaming rapids. 

As through the preceding day, they journeyed on without finding, exceptin one instance, any place where they could get down to the river'sedge, and they were fain to allay the thirst caused by hard travelling, with the water collected in the hollow of the rocks. 

In the course of their march on the following morning, they fell into abeaten horse path leading along the river, which showed that they werein the neighborhood of some Indian village or encampment. They had notproceeded far along it, when they met with two Shoshonies, or Snakes. They approached with some appearance of uneasiness, and accostingMr. Hunt, held up a knife, which by signs they let him know they hadreceived from some of the white men of the advance parties. It was withsome difficulties that Mr. Hunt prevailed upon one of the savages toconduct him to the lodges of his people. Striking into a trail or pathwhich led up from the river, he guided them for some distance in theprairie, until they came in sight of a number of lodges made of straw, and shaped like hay-stacks. Their approach, as on former occasions, caused the wildest affright among the inhabitants. The women hid suchof their children as were too large to be carried, and too small to takecare of themselves, under straw, and, clasping their infants to theirbreasts, fled across the prairie. The men awaited the approach of thestrangers, but evidently in great alarm. 

Mr. Hunt entered the lodges, and, as he was looking about, observedwhere the children were concealed; their black eyes glistening likethose of snakes, from beneath the straw. He lifted up the covering tolook at them; the poor little beings were horribly frightened, and theirfathers stood trembling, as if a beast of prey were about to pounce upontheir brood. 

The friendly manner of Mr. Hunt soon dispelled these apprehensions;he succeeded in purchasing some excellent dried salmon, and a dog, ananimal much esteemed as food by the natives; and when he returned tothe river one of the Indians accompanied him. He now came to where thelodges were frequent along the banks, and, after a day's journey oftwenty-six miles to the northwest, encamped in a populous neighborhood. Forty or fifty of the natives soon visited the camp, conductingthemselves in a very amicable manner. They were well clad, and all hadbuffalo robes, which they procured from some of the hunting tribes inexchange for salmon. Their habitations were very comfortable; each hadits pile of wormwood at the door for fuel, and within was abundanceof salmon, some fresh, but the greater part cured. When the white menvisited the lodges, however, the women and children hid themselvesthrough fear. Among the supplies obtained here were two dogs, onwhich our travellers breakfasted, and found them to be very excellent, well-flavored, and hearty food. 

In the course of the three following days they made about sixty-threemiles, generally in a northwest direction. They met with many of thenatives in their straw-built cabins, who received them without alarm. About their dwellings were immense quantities of the heads and skins ofsalmon, the best part of which had been cured, and hidden in the ground. The women were badly clad; the children worse; their garments werebuffalo robes, or the skins of foxes, hares, and badgers, and sometimesthe skins of ducks, sewed together, with the plumage on. Most of theskins must have been procured by traffic with other tribes, or indistant hunting excursions, for the naked prairies in the neighborhoodafforded few animals, excepting horses, which were abundant. There weresigns of buffaloes having been there, but a long time before. 

On the 15th of November they made twenty-eight miles along the river, which was entirely free from rapids. The shores were lined with deadsalmon, which tainted the whole atmosphere. The natives whom they metspoke of Mr. Reed's party having passed through that neighborhood. Inthe course of the day Mr. Hunt saw a few horses, but the owners of themtook care to hurry them out of the way. All the provisions they wereable to procure were two dogs and a salmon. On the following day theywere still worse off, having to subsist on parched corn and the remainsof their dried meat. The river this day had resumed its turbulentcharacter, forcing its way through a narrow channel between steep rocksand down violent rapids. They made twenty miles over a rugged road, gradually approaching a mountain in the northwest, covered with snow, which had been in sight for three days past. 

On the 17th they met with several Indians, one of whom had a horse. Mr. Hunt was extremely desirous of obtaining it as a pack-horse; for themen, worn down by fatigue and hunger, found the loads of twenty pounds'weight which they had to carry, daily growing heavier and more galling. The Indians, however, along this river, were never willing to part withtheir horses, having none to spare. The owner of the steed in questionseemed proof against all temptation; article after article of greatvalue in Indian eyes was offered and refused. The charms of an oldtin-kettle, however, were irresistible, and a bargain was concluded. 

A great part of the following morning was consumed in lightening thepackages of the men and arranging the load for the horse. At thisencampment there was no wood for fuel, even the wormwood on which theyhad frequently depended having disappeared. For the two last days theyhad made thirty miles to the northwest. 

On the 19th of November, Mr. Hunt was lucky enough to purchase anotherhorse for his own use, giving in exchange a tomahawk, a knife, a firesteel, and some beads and gartering. In an evil hour, however, he tookthe advice of the Indians to abandon the river, and follow a road ortrail leading into the prairies. He soon had cause to regret the change. The road led across a dreary waste, without verdure; and where therewas neither fountain, nor pool, nor running stream. The men now beganto experience the torments of thirst, aggravated by their diet of driedfish. The thirst of the Canadian voyageurs became so insupportable as todrive them to the most revolting means of allaying it. For twenty-fivemiles did they toll on across this dismal desert, and laid themselvesdown at night, parched and disconsolate, beside their wormwood fires;looking forward to still greater sufferings on the following day. Fortunately it began to rain in the night, to their infinite relief; thewater soon collected in puddles and afforded them delicious draughts. 

Refreshed in this manner, they resumed their wayfaring as soon as thefirst streaks of dawn gave light enough for them to see their path. Therain continued all day, so that they no longer suffered from thirst, buthunger took its place, for after travelling thirty-three miles they hadnothing to sup on but a little parched corn. 

The next day brought them to the banks of a beautiful little stream, running to the west, and fringed with groves of cottonwood and willow. On its borders was an Indian camp, with a great many horses grazingaround it. The inhabitants, too, appeared to be better clad than usual. The scene was altogether a cheering one to the poor half-famishedwanderers. They hastened to their lodges, but on arriving at themmet with a check that at first dampened their cheerfulness. An Indianimmediately laid claim to the horse of Mr. Hunt, saying that it had beenstolen from him. There was no disproving a fact supported by numerousbystanders, and which the horse stealing habits of the Indians renderedbut too probable; so Mr. Hunt relinquished his steed to the claimant;not being able to retain him by a second purchase. 

At this place they encamped for the night, and made a sumptuous repastupon fish and a couple of dogs, procured from their Indian neighbors. The next day they kept along the river, but came to a halt after tenmiles' march, on account of the rain. Here they again got a supply offish and dogs from the natives; and two of the men were fortunate enougheach to get a horse in exchange for a buffalo robe. One of these men wasPierre Dorion, the half-breed interpreter, to whose suffering familythe horse was a timely acquisition. And here we cannot but notice thewonderful patience, perseverance, and hardihood of the Indian women, asexemplified in the conduct of the poor squaw of the interpreter. She wasnow far advanced in her pregnancy, and had two children to take care of;one four, and the other two years of age. The latter of course shehad frequently to carry on her back, in addition to the burden usuallyimposed upon the squaw, yet she had borne all her hardships without amurmur, and throughout this weary and painful journey had kept pace withthe best of the pedestrians. Indeed on various occasions in the courseof this enterprise, she displayed a force of character that won therespect and applause of the white men. 

Mr. Hunt endeavored to gather some information from these Indiansconcerning the country and the course of the rivers. His communicationswith them had to be by signs, and a few words which he had learnt, andof course were extremely vague. All that he could learn from them wasthat the great river, the Columbia, was still far distant, but he couldascertain nothing as to the route he ought to take to arrive at it. Forthe two following days they continued westward upwards of forty milesalong the little stream, until they crossed it just before its junctionwith Snake River, which they found still running to the north. Beforethem was a wintry-looking mountain covered with snow on all sides. 

In three days more they made about seventy miles; fording two smallrivers, the waters of which were very cold. Provisions were extremelyscarce; their chief sustenance was portable soup; a meagre diet forweary pedestrians. 

On the 27th of November the river led them into the mountains through arocky defile where there was scarcely room to pass. They were frequentlyobliged to unload the horses to get them by the narrow places; andsometimes to wade through the water in getting round rocks and buttingcliffs. All their food this day was a beaver which they had caught thenight before; by evening, the cravings of hunger were so sharp, and theprospect of any supply among the mountains so faint, that they had tokill one of the horses. "The men, " says Mr. Hunt in his journal, "findthe meat very good, and, indeed, so should I, were it not for theattachment I have to the animal. "

Early the following day, after proceeding ten miles to the north, they came to two lodges of Shoshonies, who seemed in nearly as greatextremity as themselves, having just killed two horses for food. Theyhad no other provisions excepting the seed of a weed which they gatherin great quantities, and pound fine. It resembles hemp-seed. Mr. Huntpurchased a bag of it, and also some small pieces of horse flesh, whichhe began to relish, pronouncing them "fat and tender. "

From these Indians he received information that several white men hadgone down the river, some one side, and a good many on the other; theselast he concluded to be Mr. Crooks and his party. He was thus releasedfrom much anxiety about their safety, especially as the Indians spokeabout Mr. Crooks having one of his dogs yet, which showed that he andhis men had not been reduced to extremity of hunger. 

As Mr. Hunt feared that he might be several days in passing throughthis mountain defile, and run the risk of famine, he encamped in theneighborhood of the Indians, for the purpose of bartering with them fora horse. The evening was expended in ineffectual trials. He offered agun, a buffalo robe, and various other articles. The poor fellows had, probably, like himself, the fear of starvation before their eyes. Atlength the women, learning the object of his pressing solicitations andtempting offers, set up such a terrible hue and cry that he was fairlyhowled and scolded from the ground. 

The next morning early, the Indians seemed very desirous to get rid oftheir visitors, fearing, probably, for the safety of their horses. Inreply to Mr. Hunt's inquiries about the mountains, they told him that hewould have to sleep but three nights more among them; and that six days'travelling would take him to the falls of the Columbia; information inwhich he put no faith, believing it was only given to induce him to setforward. These, he was told, were the last Snakes he would meet with, and that he would soon come to a nation called Sciatogas. 

Forward then did he proceed on his tedious journey, which, at everystep, grew more painful. The road continued for two days through narrowdefiles, where they were repeatedly obliged to unload the horses. Sometimes the river passed through such rocky chasms and under suchsteep precipices that they had to leave it, and make their way, withexcessive labor, over immense hills, almost impassable for horses. On some of these hills were a few pine trees, and their summits werecovered with snow. On the second day of this scramble one of the hunterskilled a black-tailed deer, which afforded the half-starved travellers asumptuous repast. Their progress these two days was twenty-eight miles, a little to the northward of east. 

The month of December set in drearily, with rain in the valleys and snowupon the hills. They had to climb a mountain with snow to the midleg, which increased their painful toil. A small beaver supplied them witha scanty meal, which they eked out with frozen blackberries, haws, andchoke-cherries, which they found in the course of their scramble. Theirjourney this day, though excessively fatiguing, was but thirteen miles;and all the next day they had to remain encamped, not being able to seehalf a mile ahead, on account of a snow-storm. Having nothing else toeat, they were compelled to kill another of their horses. The next daythey resumed their march in snow and rain, but with all their effortscould only get forward nine miles, having for a part of the distanceto unload the horses and carry the packs themselves. On the succeedingmorning they were obliged to leave the river and scramble up the hills. From the summit of these, they got a wide view of the surroundingcountry, and it was a prospect almost sufficient to make them despair. In every direction they beheld snowy mountains, partially sprinkled withpines and other evergreens, and spreading a desert and toilsome worldaround them. The wind howled over the bleak and wintry landscape, andseemed to penetrate to the marrow of their bones. They waded on throughthe snow, which at every step was more than knee deep. 

After tolling in this way all day, they had the mortification tofind that they were but four miles distant from the encampment of thepreceding night, such was the meandering of the river among thesedismal hills. Pinched with famine, exhausted with fatigue, with eveningapproaching, and a wintry wild still lengthening as they advanced, theybegan to look forward with sad forebodings to the night's exposure uponthis frightful waste. Fortunately they succeeded in reaching a clusterof pines about sunset. Their axes were immediately at work; they cutdown trees, piled them in great heaps, and soon had huge fires "to cheertheir cold and hungry hearts. "

About three o'clock in the morning it again began to snow, and atdaybreak they found themselves, as it were, in a cloud, scarcely beingable to distinguish objects at the distance of a hundred yards. Guardingthemselves by the sound of running water, they set out for the river, and by slipping and sliding contrived to get down to its bank. One ofthe horses, missing his footing, rolled down several hundred yards withhis load, but sustained no injury. The weather in the valley was lessrigorous than on the hills. The snow lay but ankle deep, and there wasa quiet rain now falling. After creeping along for six miles, theyencamped on the border of the river. Being utterly destitute ofprovisions, they were again compelled to kill one of their horses toappease their famishing hunger. 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

 An Unexpected Meeting. --Navigation in a Skin Canoe. -Strange Fears of Suffering Men. -Hardships of Mr. Crooks and His Comrades. --Tidings of M'Lellan. --A Retrograde March. --A Willow Raft. --Extreme Suffering of Some of the Party--Illness of Mr. Crooks. --Impatience of Some of the Men. --Necessity of Leaving the Laggards Behind. 

THE wanderers had now accomplished four hundred and seventy-two milesof their dreary journey since leaving the Caldron Linn; how much furtherthey had yet to travel, and what hardships to encounter, no one knew. 

On the morning of the 6th of December, they left their dismalencampment, but had scarcely begun their march when, to their surprise, they beheld a party of white men coming up along the opposite bank ofthe river. As they drew nearer, they were recognized for Mr. Crooks andhis companions. When they came opposite, and could make themselves heardacross the murmuring of the river, their first cry was for food; infact, they were almost starved. Mr. Hunt immediately returned to thecamp, and had a kind of canoe made out of the skin of the horse killedon the preceding night. This was done after the Indian fashion, bydrawing up the edges of the skin with thongs, and keeping them distendedby sticks or thwart pieces. In this frail bark, Sardepie, one of theCanadians, carried over a portion of the flesh of the horse to thefamishing party on the opposite side of the river, and brought back withhim Mr. Crooks and the Canadian, Le Clerc. The forlorn and wasted looksand starving condition of these two men struck dismay to the heartsof Mr. Hunt's followers. They had been accustomed to each other'sappearance, and to the gradual operation of hunger and hardship upontheir frames, but the change in the looks of these men, since last theyparted, was a type of the famine and desolation of the land; and theynow began to indulge the horrible presentiment that they would allstarve together, or be reduced to the direful alternative of castinglots!

When Mr. Crooks had appeased his hunger, he gave Mr. Hunt some accountof his wayfaring. On the side of the river along which he had kept, hehad met with but few Indians, and those were too miserably poor to yieldmuch assistance. For the first eighteen days after leaving the CaldronLinn, he and his men had been confined to half a meal in twenty-fourhours; for three days following, they had subsisted on a single beaver, a few wild cherries, and the soles of old moccasins; and for the lastsix days their only animal food had been the carcass of a dog. They hadbeen three days' journey further down the river than Mr. Hunt, alwayskeeping as near to its banks as possible, and frequently climbing oversharp and rocky ridges that projected into the stream. At length theyhad arrived to where the mountains increased in height, and camecloser to the river, with perpendicular precipices, which renderedit impossible to keep along the stream. The river here rushed withincredible velocity through a defile not more than thirty yardswide, where cascades and rapids succeeded each other almost withoutintermission. Even had the opposite banks, therefore, been such as topermit a continuance of their journey, it would have been madness toattempt to pass the tumultuous current either on rafts or otherwise. Still bent, however, on pushing forward, they attempted to climb theopposing mountains; and struggled on through the snow for half a dayuntil, coming to where they could command a prospect, they found thatthey were not half way to the summit, and that mountain upon mountainlay piled beyond them, in wintry desolation. Famished and emaciated asthey were, to continue forward would be to perish; their only chanceseemed to be to regain the river, and retrace their steps up its banks. It was in this forlorn and retrograde march that they had met Mr. Huntand his party. 

Mr. Crooks also gave information of some others of their fellowadventurers. He had spoken several days previously with Mr. Reed andMr. M'Kenzie, who with their men were on the opposite side of the river, where it was impossible to get over to them. They informed him that Mr. M'Lellan had struck across from the little river above the mountains, inthe hope of falling in with some of the tribe of Flatheads, who inhabitthe western skirts of the Rocky range. As the companions of Reed andM'Kenzie were picked men, and had found provisions more abundant ontheir side of the river, they were in better condition, and more fittedto contend with the difficulties of the country, than those of Mr. Crooks, and when he lost sight of them, were pushing onward, down thecourse of the river. 

Mr. Hunt took a night to revolve over his critical situation, and todetermine what was to be done. No time was to be lost; he had twenty menand more in his own party, to provide for, and Mr. Crooks and his men torelieve. To linger would be to starve. The idea of retracing his stepswas intolerable, and, notwithstanding all the discouraging accounts ofthe ruggedness of the mountains lower down the river, he would have beendisposed to attempt them, but the depth of the snow with which they werecovered deterred him; having already experienced the impossibility offorcing his way against such an impediment. 

The only alternative, therefore, appeared to be, return and seek theIndian bands scattered along the small rivers above the mountains. Perhaps, from some of these he might procure horses enough to supporthim until he could reach the Columbia; for he still cherished the hopeof arriving at that river in the course of the winter, though he wasapprehensive that few of Mr. Crooks's party would be sufficiently strongto follow him. Even in adopting this course, he had to make up his mindto the certainty of several days of famine at the outset, for it wouldtake that time to reach the last Indian lodges from which he had parted, and until they should arrive there, his people would have nothing tosubsist upon but haws and wild berries, excepting one miserable horse, which was little better than skin and bone. 

After a night of sleepless cogitation, Mr. Hunt announced to his men thedreary alternative he had adopted, and preparations were made to takeMr. Crooks and Le Clerc across the river, with the remainder of themeat, as the other party were to keep up along the opposite bank. The skin canoe had unfortunately been lost in the night; a raft wasconstructed therefore, after the manner of the natives, of bundles ofwillows, but it could not be floated across the impetuous current. The men were directed, in consequence, to keep on along the river bythemselves, while Mr. Crooks and Le Clerc would proceed with Mr. Hunt. They all, then, took up their retrograde march with drooping spirits. 

In a little while, it was found that Mr. Crooks and Le Clerc were sofeeble as to walk with difficulty, so that Mr. Hunt was obligedto retard his pace, that they might keep up with him. His men grewimpatient at the delay. They murmured that they had a long and desolateregion to traverse, before they could arrive at the point where theymight expect to find horses; that it was impossible for Crooks and LeClerc, in their feeble condition, to get over it; that to remain withthem would only be to starve in their company. They importuned Mr. Hunt, therefore, to leave these unfortunate men to their fate, and think onlyof the safety of himself and his party. Finding him not to be movedeither by entreaties or their clamors, they began to proceed withouthim, singly and in parties. Among those who thus went off was PierreDorion, the interpreter. Pierre owned the only remaining horse; whichwas now a mere skeleton. Mr. Hunt had suggested, in their presentextremity, that it should be killed for food; to which the half-breedflatly refused his assent, and cudgeling the miserable animal forward, pushed on sullenly, with the air of a man doggedly determined to quarrelfor his right. In this way Mr. Hunt saw his men, one after another, break away, until but five remained to bear him company. 

On the following morning another raft was made, on which Mr. Crooks andLe Clerc again attempted to ferry themselves across the river, but afterrepeated trials had to give up in despair. This caused additional delay;after which they continued to crawl forward at a snail's pace. Some ofthe men who had remained with Mr. Hunt now became impatient of theseincumbrances, and urged him clamorously to push forward, crying out thatthey should all starve. The night which succeeded was intensely cold, so that one of the men was severely frost-bitten. In the course ofthe night, Mr. Crooks was taken ill, and in the morning was still moreincompetent to travel. Their situation was now desperate, for theirstock of provisions was reduced to three beaver skins. Mr. Hunt, therefore, resolved to push on, overtake his people, and insist uponhaving the horse of Pierre Dorion sacrificed for the relief of allhands. Accordingly, he left two of his men to help Crooks and Le Clercon their way, giving them two of the beaver skins for their support; theremaining skin he retained, as provision for himself and the three othermen who struck forward with him. 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

 Mr. Hunt Overtakes the Advance Party. --Pierre Dorion, and His Skeleton Horse. --A Shoshonie Camp. --A Justifiable Outrage. --Feasting on Horse Flesh. --Mr. Crooks Brought to the Camp. --Undertakes to Relieve His Men. --The Skin Ferry- Boat. --Frenzy of Prevost. --His Melancholy Fate. -Enfeebled State of John Day. -Mr. Crooks Again Left Behind. -The Party Emerge From Among the Mountains. --Interview With Shoshonies. -- A Guide Procured to Conduct the Party Across a Mountain. -- Ferriage Across Snake River. --Reunion With Mr Crook's Men. -- Final Departure From the River. 

ALL that day, Mr. Hunt and his three comrades travelled without eating. At night they made a tantalizing supper on their beaver skin, and werenearly exhausted by hunger and cold. The next day, December 10th, theyovertook the advance party, who were all as much famished as themselves, some of them not having eaten since the morning of the seventh. Mr. Huntnow proposed the sacrifice of Pierre Dorion's skeleton horse. Here heagain met with positive and vehement opposition from the half-breed, whowas too sullen and vindictive a fellow to be easily dealt with. What wassingular, the men, though suffering such pinching hunger, interfered infavor of the horse. 

They represented that it was better to keep on as long as pos-siblewithout resorting to this last resource. Possibly the Indians, of whomthey were in quest, might have shifted their encampment, in which caseit would be time enough to kill the horse to escape starvation. Mr. Hunt, therefore, was prevailed upon to grant Pierre Dorion's horse areprieve. 

Fortunately, they had not proceeded much further, when, towards evening, they came in sight of a lodge of Shoshonies, with a number of horsesgrazing around it. The sight was as unexpected as it was joyous. Havingseen no Indians in this neighborhood as they passed down the river, theymust have subsequently come out from among the mountains. Mr. Hunt, whofirst descried them, checked the eagerness of his companions, knowingthe unwillingness of these Indians to part with their horses, and theiraptness to hurry them off and conceal them, in case of an alarm. Thiswas no time to risk such a disappointment. Approaching, therefore, stealthily and silently, they came upon the savages by surprise, whofled in terror. Five of their horses were eagerly seized, and one wasdespatched upon the spot. The carcass was immediately cut up, and apart of it hastily cooked and ravenously devoured. A man was now sent onhorseback with a supply of the flesh to Mr. Crooks and his companions. He reached them in the night; they were so famished that the supply sentthem seemed but to aggravate their hunger, and they were almost temptedto kill and eat the horse that had brought the messenger. Availingthemselves of the assistance of the animal, they reached the camp earlyin the morning. 

On arriving there, Mr. Crooks was shocked to find that, while the peopleon this side of the river were amply supplied with provisions, none hadbeen sent to his own forlorn and famishing men on the opposite bank. Heimmediately caused a skin canoe to be constructed, and called out to hismen to fill their camp-kettles with water and hang them over the fire, that no time might be lost in cooking the meat the moment it should bereceived. The river was so narrow, though deep, that everything couldbe distinctly heard and seen across it. The kettles were placed on thefire, and the water was boiling by the time the canoe was completed. When all was ready, however, no one would undertake to ferry the meatacross. A vague and almost superstitious terror had infected the mindsof Mr. Hunt's followers, enfeebled and rendered imaginative of horrorsby the dismal scenes and sufferings through which they had passed. They regarded the haggard crew, hovering like spectres of famine on theopposite bank, with indefinite feelings of awe and apprehension: as ifsomething desperate and dangerous was to be feared from them. 

Mr. Crooks tried in vain to reason or shame them out of this singularstate of mind. He then attempted to navigate the canoe himself, butfound his strength incompetent to brave the impetuous current. The goodfeelings of Ben Jones, the Kentuckian, at length overcame his fears, and he ventured over. The supply he brought was received with tremblingavidity. A poor Canadian, however, named Jean Baptiste Prevost, whomfamine had rendered wild and desperate, ran frantically about the bank, after Jones had returned, crying out to Mr. Hunt to send the canoe forhim, and take him from that horrible region of famine, declaring thatotherwise he would never march another step, but would lie down thereand die. 

The canoe was shortly sent over again, under the management of JosephDelaunay, with further supplies. Prevost immediately pressed forward toembark. Delaunay refused to admit him, telling him that there was now asufficient supply of meat on his side of the river. He replied that itwas not cooked, and he should starve before it was ready; he implored, therefore, to be taken where he could get something to appease hishunger immediately. Finding the canoe putting off without him, he forcedhimself aboard. As he drew near the opposite shore, and beheld meatroasting before the fire, he jumped up, shouted, clapped his hands, anddanced in a delirium of joy, until he upset the canoe. The poor wretchwas swept away by the current and drowned, and it was with extremedifficulty that Delaunay reached the shore. 

Mr. Hunt now sent all his men forward excepting two or three. In theevening he caused another horse to be killed, and a canoe to be madeout of the skin, in which he sent over a further supply of meat to theopposite party. The canoe brought back John Day, the Kentucky hunter, who came to join his former employer and commander, Mr. Crooks. PoorDay, once so active and vigorous, was now reduced to a condition evenmore feeble and emaciated than his companions. Mr. Crooks had sucha value for the man, on account of his past services and faithfulcharacter, that he determined not to quit him; he exhorted Mr. Hunt, however, to proceed forward, and join the party, as his presence was allimportant to the conduct of the expedition. One of the Canadians, JeanBaptiste Dubreuil, likewise remained with Mr. Crooks. 

Mr. Hunt left two horses with them, and a part of the carcass of thelast that had been killed. This, he hoped, would be sufficient tosustain them until they should reach the Indian encampment. 

One of the chief dangers attending the enfeebled condition of Mr. Crooksand his companions was their being overtaken by the Indians whose horseshad been seized, though Mr. Hunt hoped that he had guarded against anyresentment on the part of the savages, by leaving various articles intheir lodge, more than sufficient to compensate for the outrage he hadbeen compelled to commit. 

Resuming his onward course, Mr. Hunt came up with his people in theevening. The next day, December 13th, he beheld several Indians, withthree horses, on the opposite side of the river, and after a time cameto the two lodges which he had seen on going down. Here he endeavored invain to barter a rifle for a horse, but again succeeded in effecting thepurchase with an old tin kettle, aided by a few beads. 

The two succeeding days were cold and stormy; the snow was augmenting, and there was a good deal of ice running in the river. Their road, however, was becoming easier; they were getting out of the hills, andfinally emerged into the open country, after twenty days of fatigue, famine, and hardship of every kind, in the ineffectual attempt to find apassage down the river. 

They now encamped on a little willowed stream, running from the east, which they had crossed on the 26th of November. Here they found a dozenlodges of Shoshonies, recently arrived, who informed them that had theypersevered along the river, they would have found their difficultiesaugment until they became absolutely insurmountable. This intelligenceadded to the anxiety of Mr. Hunt for the fate of Mr. M'Kenzie and hispeople, who had kept on. 

Mr. Hunt now followed up the little river, and encamped at some lodgesof Shoshonies, from whom he procured a couple of horses, a dog, a fewdried fish, and some roots and dried cherries. Two or three days wereexhausted in obtaining information about the route, and what time itwould take to get to the Sciatogas, a hospitable tribe on the westof the mountains, represented as having many horses. The replies werevarious, but concurred in saying that the distance was great, and wouldoccupy from seventeen to twenty-one nights. Mr. Hunt then tried toprocure a guide; but though he sent to various lodges up and down theriver, offering articles of great value in Indian estimation, no onewould venture. The snow, they said, was waist deep in the mountains; andto all his offers they shook their heads, gave a shiver, and replied, "we shall freeze! we shall freeze!" at the same time they urged him toremain and pass the winter among them. 

Mr. Hunt was in a dismal dilemma. To attempt the mountains without aguide would be certain death to him and all his people; to remain there, after having already been so long on the journey, and at such greatexpense, was worse to him, he said, than two "deaths. " He now changedhis tone with the Indians, charged them with deceiving him in respect tothe mountains, and talking with a "forked tongue, " or, in other words, with lying. He upbraided them with their want of courage, and told themthey were women, to shrink from the perils of such a journey. At lengthone of them, piqued by his taunts, or tempted by his offers, agreed tobe his guide; for which he was to receive a gun, a pistol, three knives, two horses, and a little of every article in possession of the party;a reward sufficient to make him one of the wealthiest of his vagabondnation. 

Once more, then, on the 21st of December, they set out upon theirwayfaring, with newly excited spirits. Two other Indians accompaniedtheir guide, who led them immediately back to Snake River, which theyfollowed down for a short distance, in search of some Indian rafts madeof reeds, on which they might cross. Finding none, Mr. Hunt caused ahorse to be killed, and a canoe to be made out of its skin. Here, on theopposite bank, they saw the thirteen men of Mr. Crooks's party, who hadcontinued up along the river. They told Mr. Hunt, across the stream, that they had not seen Mr. Crooks, and the two men who had remained withhim, since the day that he had separated from them. 

The canoe proving too small, another horse was killed, and the skin ofit joined to that of the first. Night came on before the little bark hadmade more than two voyages. Being badly made it was taken apart and puttogether again, by the light of the fire. The night was cold; the menwere weary and disheartened with such varied and incessant toil andhardship. They crouched, dull and drooping, around their fires; many ofthem began to express a wish to remain where they were for the winter. The very necessity of crossing the river dismayed some of them in theirpresent enfeebled and dejected state. It was rapid and turbulent, andfilled with floating ice, and they remembered that two of theircomrades had already perished in its waters. Others looked forward withmisgivings to the long and dismal journey through lonesome regions thatawaited them, when they should have passed this dreary flood. 

At an early hour of the morning, December 23d, they began to cross theriver. Much ice had formed during the night, and they were obliged tobreak it for some distance on each shore. At length they all got over insafety to the west side; and their spirits rose on having achieved thisperilous passage. Here they were rejoined by the people of Mr. Crooks, who had with them a horse and a dog, which they had recently procured. The poor fellows were in the most squalid and emaciated state. Threeof them were so completely prostrated in strength and spirits that theyexpressed a wish to remain among the Snakes. Mr. Hunt, therefore, gavethem the canoe, that they might cross the river, and a few articles, with which to procure necessities, until they should meet with Mr. Crooks. There was another man, named Michael Carriere, who was almostequally reduced, but he determined to proceed with his comrades, whowere now incorporated with the party of Mr. Hunt. After the day'sexertions they encamped together on the banks of the river. This was thelast night they were to spend upon its borders. More than eight hundredmiles of hard travelling, and many weary days, had it cost them; and thesufferings connected with it rendered it hateful in their remembrance, so that the Canadian voyageurs always spoke of it as "La maudite riviereenragee"--the accursed mad river--thus coupling a malediction with itsname. 

CHAPTER XXXVII

 Departure From Snake River--Mountains to the North. --Wayworn Travellers--An Increase of the Dorion Family. --A Camp of Shoshonies. --A New-Year Festival Among the Snakes. --A Wintry March Through the Mountains. --A Sunny Prospect, and Milder Climate. --Indian Horse-Tracks. --Grassy Valleys. --A Camp of Sciatogas. --Joy of the Travellers. -Dangers of Abundance. -- Habits of the Sciatogas. --Fate of Carriere. --The Umatilla. -- Arrival at the Banks of the Columbia. --Tidings of the Scattered Members of the Expedition. --Scenery on the Columbia. --Tidings of Astoria-Arrival at the Falls. 

ON the 24th of December, all things being arranged, Mr. Hunt turned hisback upon the disastrous banks of Snake River, and struck his coursewestward for the mountains. His party, being augmented by the latefollowers of Mr. Crooks, amounted now to thirty-two white men, threeIndians, and the squaw and two children of Pierre Dorion. Five jaded, half-starved horses were laden with their luggage, and, in case of need, were to furnish them with provisions. They travelled painfully aboutfourteen miles a day, over plains and among hills, rendered dreary byoccasional falls of snow and rain. Their only sustenance was a scantymeal of horse flesh once in four-and-twenty hours. 

On the third day the poor Canadian, Carriere, one of the famished partyof Mr. Crooks, gave up in despair, and laying down upon the grounddeclared he could go no further. Efforts were made to cheer him up, butit was found that the poor fellow was absolutely exhausted and couldnot keep on his legs. He was mounted, therefore, upon one of the horses, though the forlorn animal was in little better plight than himself. 

On the 28th, they came upon a small stream winding to the north, througha fine level valley; the mountains receding on each side. Here theirIndian friends pointed out a chain of woody mountains to the left, running north and south, and covered with snow, over which they wouldhave to pass. They kept along the valley for twenty-one miles on the29th, suffering much from a continued fall of snow and rain, and beingtwice obliged to ford the icy stream. Early in the following morning thesquaw of Pierre Dorion, who had hitherto kept on without murmuring orflinching, was suddenly taken in labor, and enriched her husband withanother child. As the fortitude and good conduct of the poor woman hadgained for her the goodwill of the party, her situation caused concernand perplexity. Pierre, however, treated the matter as an occurrencethat could soon be arranged and need cause no delay. He remained by hiswife in the camp, with his other children and his horse, and promisedsoon to rejoin the main body, who proceeded on their march. 

Finding that the little river entered the mountains, they abandoned it, and turned off for a few miles among hills. Here another Canadian, namedLa Bonte, gave out, and had to be helped on horseback. As the horse wastoo weak to bear both him and his pack, Mr. Hunt took the latter uponhis own shoulders. Thus, with difficulties augmenting at every step, they urged their toilsome way among the hills, half famished and faintat heart, when they came to where a fair valley spread out before them, of great extent and several leagues in width, with a beautiful streammeandering through it. A genial climate seemed to prevail here, forthough the snow lay upon all the mountains within sight, there was noneto be seen in the valley. The travellers gazed with delight upon thisserene, sunny landscape, but their joy was complete on beholding sixlodges of Shoshonies pitched upon the borders of the stream, with anumber of horses and dogs about them. They all pressed forward witheagerness and soon reached the camp. Here their first attention was toobtain provisions. A rifle, an old musket, a tomahawk, a tin kettle, and a small quantity of ammunition soon procured them four horses, threedogs, and some roots. Part of the live stock was immediately killed, cooked with all expedition, and as promptly devoured. A hearty mealrestored every one to good spirits. In the course of the followingmorning the Dorion family made its reappearance. Pierre came trudging inthe advance, followed by his valued, though skeleton steed, on which wasmounted his squaw with her new-born infant in her arms, and her boy oftwo years old wrapped in a blanket and slung at her side. The motherlooked as unconcerned as if nothing had happened to her; so easyis nature in her operations in the wilderness, when free from theenfeebling refinements of luxury, and the tamperings and appliances ofart. 

The next morning ushered in the new year (1812). Mr. Hunt was about toresume his march, when his men requested permission to celebrate theday. This was particularly urged by the Canadian voyageurs, with whomNew-Year's day is a favorite festival; and who never willingly give upa holiday, under any circumstances. There was no resisting such anapplication; so the day was passed in repose and revelry; the poorCanadians contrived to sing and dance in defiance of all theirhardships; and there was a sumptuous New-Year's banquet of dog's meatand horse flesh. 

After two days of welcome rest, the travellers addressed themselves oncemore to the painful journey. The Indians of the lodges pointed out adistant gap through which they must pass in traversing the ridge ofmountains. They assured them that they would be but little incommodedby snow, and in three days would arrive among the Sciatogas. Mr. Hunt, however, had been so frequently deceived by Indian accounts of routesand distances, that he gave but little faith to this information. 

The travellers continued their course due west for five days, crossingthe valley and entering the mountains. Here the travelling becameexcessively toilsome, across rough stony ridges, and amidst fallentrees. They were often knee deep in snow, and sometimes in the hollowsbetween the ridges sank up to their waists. The weather was extremelycold; the sky covered with clouds so that for days they had not aglimpse of the sun. In traversing the highest ridge they had a wide butchilling prospect over a wilderness of snowy mountains. 

On the 6th of January, however, they had crossed the dividing summit ofthe chain, and were evidently under the influence of a milder climate. The snow began to decrease; the sun once more emerged from the thickcanopy of clouds, and shone cheeringly upon them, and they caught asight of what appeared to be a plain, stretching out in the west. They hailed it as the poor Israelites hailed the first glimpse of thepromised land, for they flattered themselves that this might be thegreat plain of the Columbia, and that their painful pilgrimage might bedrawing to a close. 

It was now five days since they had left the lodges of the Shoshonies, during which they had come about sixty miles, and their guide assuredthem that in the course of the next day they would see the Sciatogas. 

On the following morning, therefore, they pushed forward with eagerness, and soon fell upon a stream which led them through a deep narrow defile, between stupendous ridges. Here among the rocks and precipices they sawgangs of that mountain-loving animal, the black-tailed deer, and came towhere great tracks of horses were to be seen in all directions, made bythe Indian hunters. 

The snow had entirely disappeared, and the hopes of soon coming uponsome Indian encampment induced Mr. Hunt to press on. Many of the men, however, were so enfeebled that they could not keep up with the mainbody, but lagged at intervals behind; and some of them did not arriveat the night encampment. In the course of this day's march therecently-born child of Pierre Dorion died. 

The march was resumed early the next morning, without waiting for thestragglers. The stream which they had followed throughout the precedingday was now swollen by the influx of another river; the declivities ofthe hills were green and the valleys were clothed with grass. Atlength the jovial cry was given of "an Indian camp!" It was yet in thedistance, In the bosom of the green valley, but they could perceivethat it consisted of numerous lodges, and that hundreds of horses weregrazing the grassy meadows around it. The prospect of abundance ofhorse flesh diffused universal joy, for by this time the whole stockof travelling provisions was reduced to the skeleton steed of PierreDorion, and another wretched animal, equally emaciated, that had beenrepeatedly reprieved during the journey. 

A forced march soon brought the weary and hungry travellers to the camp. It proved to be a strong party of Sciatogas and Tusche-pas. There werethirty-four lodges, comfortably constructed of mats; the Indians, too, were better clothed than any of the wandering bands they had hithertomet on this side of the Rocky Mountains. Indeed, they were as well cladas the generality of the wild hunter tribes. Each had a good buffalo ordeer skin robe; and a deer skin hunting shirt and leggins. Upwards oftwo thousand horses were ranging the pastures around their encampment;but what delighted Mr. Hunt was, on entering the lodges, to beholdbrass kettles, axes, copper tea-kettles, and various other articles ofcivilized manufacture, which showed that these Indians had an indirectcommunication with the people of the sea-coast who traded with thewhites. He made eager inquiries of the Sciatogas, and gathered from themthat the great river (the Columbia) was but two days' march distant, andthat several white people had recently descended it; who he hoped mightprove to be M'Lellan, M'Kenzie, and their companions. 

It was with the utmost joy and the most profound gratitude to heaven, that Mr. Hunt found himself and his band of weary and famishingwanderers thus safely extricated from the most perilous part of theirlong journey, and within the prospect of a termination of their tolls. All the stragglers who had lagged behind arrived, one after another, excepting the poor Canadian voyageur, Carriere. He had been seen late inthe preceding afternoon, riding behind a Snake Indian, near some lodgesof that nation, a few miles distant from the last night's encampment;and it was expected that he would soon make his appearance. The firstobject of Mr. Hunt was to obtain provisions for his men. A littlevenison, of an indifferent quality, and some roots were all that couldbe procured that evening; but the next day he succeeded in purchasinga mare and colt, which were immediately killed, and the cravings of thehalf-starved people in some degree appeased. 

For several days they remained in the neighborhood of these Indians, reposing after all their hardships, and feasting upon horse flesh androots, obtained in subsequent traffic. Many of the people ate to suchexcess as to render themselves sick, others were lame from their pastjourney; but all gradually recruited in the repose and abundance of thevalley. Horses were obtained here much more readily, and at a cheaperrate, than among the Snakes. A blanket, a knife, or a half pound of bluebeads would purchase a steed, and at this rate many of the men boughthorses for their individual use. 

This tribe of Indians, who are represented as a proud-spirited race, anduncommonly cleanly, never eat horses or dogs, nor would they permitthe raw flesh of either to be brought into their huts. They had a smallquantity of venison in each lodge, but set so high a price upon it thatthe white men, in their impoverished state could not afford to purchaseit. They hunted the deer on horseback, "ringing, " or surrounding them, and running them down in a circle. They were admirable horsemen, andtheir weapons were bows and arrows, which they managed with greatdexterity. They were altogether primitive in their habits, and seemed tocling to the usages of savage life, even when possessed of the aids ofcivilization. They had axes among them, yet they generally made use of astone mallet wrought into the shape of a bottle, and wedges of elkhorn, in splitting their wood. Though they might have two or three brasskettles hanging, in their lodges, yet they would frequently use vesselsmade of willow, for carrying water, and would even boll their meat inthem, by means of hot stones. Their women wore caps of willow neatlyworked and figured. 

As Carriere, the Canadian straggler, did not make his appearance for twoor three days after the encampment in the valley two men were sent outon horseback in search of him. They returned, however, without success. The lodges of the Snake Indians near which he had been seen wereremoved, and the could find no trace of him. Several days more elapsed, yet nothing was seen or heard of him, or the Snake horseman, behind whomhe had been last observed. It was feared, therefore, that he had eitherperished through hunger and fatigue; had been murdered by the Indians;or, being left to himself, had mistaken some hunting tracks for thetrail of the party, and been led astray and lost. 

The river on the banks of which they were encamped, emptied into theColumbia, was called by the natives the Eu-o-tal-la, or Umatilla, andabounded with beaver. In the course of their sojourn in the valley whichit watered, they twice shifted their camp, proceeding about thirty milesdown its course, which was to the west. A heavy fall of rain caused theriver to overflow its banks, dislodged them from their encampment, anddrowned three of their horses which were tethered in the low ground. 

Further conversation with the Indians satisfied them that they were inthe neighborhood of the Columbia. The number of the white men who theysaid had passed down the river, agreed with that of M'Lellan, M'Kenzie, and their companions, and increased the hope of Mr. Hunt that they mighthave passed through the wilderness with safety. 

These Indians had a vague story that white men were coming to tradeamong them; and they often spoke of two great men named Ke-Koosh andJacquean, who gave them tobacco, and smoked with them. Jacquean, theysaid, had a house somewhere upon the great river. Some of the Canadianssupposed they were speaking of one Jacquean Finlay, a clerk of theNorthwest Company, and inferred that the house must be some tradingpost on one of the tributary streams of the Columbia. The Indians wereoverjoyed when they found this band of white men intended to returnand trade with them. They promised to use all diligence in collectingquantities of beaver skins, and no doubt proceeded to make deadly warupon that sagacious, but ill-fated animal, who, in general, lived inpeaceful insignificance among his Indian neighbors, before the intrusionof the white trader. On the 20th of January, Mr. Hunt took leave ofthese friendly Indians, and of the river on which they encamped, andcontinued westward. 

At length, on the following day, the wayworn travellers lifted up theireyes and beheld before them the long-sought waters of the Columbia. Thesight was hailed with as much transport as if they had already reachedthe end of their pilgrimage; nor can we wonder at their joy. Two hundredand forty miles had they marched, through wintry wastes and ruggedmountains, since leaving Snake River; and six months of perilouswayfaring had they experienced since their departure from the Arickaravillage on the Missouri. Their whole route by land and water from thatpoint had been, according to their computation, seventeen hundred andfifty-one miles, in the course of which they had endured all kinds ofhardships. In fact, the necessity of avoiding the dangerous country ofthe Blackfeet had obliged them to make a bend to the south and traversea great additional extent of unknown wilderness. 

The place where they struck the Columbia was some distance below thejunction of its two great branches, Lewis and Clarke rivers, and notfar from the influx of the Wallah-Wallah. It was a beautiful stream, three-quarters of a mile wide, totally free from trees; bordered in someplaces with steep rocks, in others with pebbled shores. 

On the banks of the Columbia they found a miserable horde of Indians, called Akai-chies, with no clothing but a scanty mantle of the skins ofanimals, and sometimes a pair of sleeves of wolf's skin. Their lodgeswere shaped like a tent, and very light and warm, being covered withmats and rushes; besides which they had excavations in the ground, linedwith mats, and occupied by the women, who were even more slightly cladthan the men. These people subsisted chiefly by fishing; having canoesof a rude construction, being merely the trunks of pine trees split andhollowed out by fire. Their lodges were well stored with dried salmon, and they had great quantities of fresh salmon trout of an excellentflavor, taken at the mouth of the Umatilla; of which the travellersobtained a most acceptable supply. 

Finding that the road was on the north side of the river, Mr. Huntcrossed, and continued five or six days travelling rather slowly downalong its banks, being much delayed by the straying of the horses, andthe attempts made by the Indians to steal them. They frequently passedlodges, where they obtained fish and dogs. At one place the natives hadjust returned from hunting, and had brought back a large quantity ofelk and deer meat, but asked so high a price for it as to be beyond thefunds of the travellers, so they had to content themselves with dog'sflesh. They had by this time, however, come to consider it very choicefood, superior to horse flesh, and the minutes of the expedition speakrather exultingly now and then, of their having made a famous "repast, "where this viand happened to be unusually plenty. 

They again learnt tidings of some of the scattered members of theexpedition, supposed to be M'Kenzie, M'Lellan, and their men, who hadpreceded them down the river, and had overturned one of their canoes, bywhich they lost many articles. All these floating pieces of intelligenceof their fellow adventurers, who had separated from them in the heart ofthe wilderness, they received with eager interest. 

The weather continued to be temperate, marking the superior softness ofthe climate on this side of the mountains. For a great part of thetime, the days were delightfully mild and clear, like the serene daysof October on the Atlantic borders. The country in general, in theneighborhood of the river, was a continual plain, low near the water, but rising gradually; destitute of trees, and almost without shrubsor plants of any kind, excepting a few willow bushes. After travellingabout sixty miles, they came to where the country became very hilly andthe river made its way between rocky banks and down numerous rapids. The Indians in this vicinity were better clad and altogether in moreprosperous condition than those above, and, as Mr. Hunt thought, showedtheir consciousness of ease by something like sauciness of manner. Thusprosperity is apt to produce arrogance in savage as well as in civilizedlife. In both conditions, man is an animal that will not bear pampering. 

From these people Mr. Hunt for the first time received vague but deeplyinteresting intelligence of that part of the enterprise which hadproceeded by sea to the mouth of the Columbia. The Indians spoke ofa number of white men who had built a large house at the mouth of thegreat river, and surrounded it with palisades. None of them had beendown to Astoria themselves; but rumors spread widely and rapidly frommouth to mouth among the Indian tribes, and are carried to the heart ofthe interior by hunting parties and migratory hordes. 

The establishment of a trading emporium at such a point, also, wascalculated to cause a sensation to the most remote parts of the vastwilderness beyond the mountains. It in a manner struck the pulse of thegreat vital river, and vibrated up all its tributary streams. 

It is surprising to notice how well this remote tribe of savages hadlearnt, through intermediate gossips, the private feelings of thecolonists at Astoria; it shows that Indians are not the incurious andindifferent observers that they have been represented. They told Mr. Hunt that the white people at the large house had been looking anxiouslyfor many of their friends, whom they had expected to descend the greatriver; and had been in much affliction, fearing that they were lost. Now, however, the arrival of him and his party would wipe away all theirtears, and they would dance and sing for joy. 

On the 31st of January, Mr. Hunt arrived at the falls of the Columbia, and encamped at the village of the Wish-ram, situated at the head ofthat dangerous pass of the river called "the Long Narrows". 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

 The Village of Wish-ram. --Roguery of the Inhabitants. --Their Habitations. --Tidings of Astoria. --Of the Tonquin Massacre. --Thieves About the Camp. --A Band of Braggarts--Embarkation. -- Arrival at Astoria. --A Joyful Reception. --Old Comrade. -- Adventures of Reed, M'Lellan, and M'Kenzie Among the Snake River Mountains. --Rejoicing at Astoria. 

OF the village of Wish-ram, the aborigines' fishing mart of theColumbia, we have given some account in an early chapter of this work. The inhabitants held a traffic in the productions of the fisheries ofthe falls, and their village was the trading resort of the tribesfrom the coast and from the mountains. Mr. Hunt found the inhabitantsshrewder and more intelligent than any Indians he had met with. Tradehad sharpened their wits, though it had not improved their honesty;for they were a community of arrant rogues and freebooters. Theirhabitations comported with their circumstances, and were superior to anythe travellers had yet seen west of the Rocky Mountains. In general, thedwellings of the savages on the Pacific side of that great barrier weremere tents and cabins of mats, or skins, or straw, the country beingdestitute of timber. In Wish-ram, on the contrary, the houses were builtof wood, with long sloping roofs. The floor was sunk about six feetbelow the surface of the ground, with a low door at the gable end, extremely narrow, and partly sunk. Through this it was necessary tocrawl and then to descend a short ladder. This inconvenient entrance wasprobably for the purpose of defense; there were loop-holes also underthe eaves, apparently for the discharge of arrows. The houses werelarge, generally containing two or three families. Immediately withinthe door were sleeping places, ranged along the walls, like berths ina ship; and furnished with pallets of matting. These extended along onehalf of the building; the remaining half was appropriated to the storingof dried fish. 

The trading operations of the inhabitants of Wish-ram had given thema wider scope of information, and rendered their village a kind ofheadquarters of intelligence. Mr. Hunt was able, therefore, to collectmore distinct tidings concerning the settlement of Astoria and itsaffairs. One of the inhabitants had been at the trading post establishedby David Stuart on the Oakinagan, and had picked up a few words ofEnglish there. From him, Mr. Hunt gleaned various particulars about thatestablishment, as well as about the general concerns of the enterprise. Others repeated the name of Mr. M'Kay, the partner who perished inthe massacre on board of the Tonquin, and gave some account of thatmelancholy affair. They said Mr. M'Kay was a chief among the white men, and had built a great house at the mouth of the river, but had leftit and sailed away in a large ship to the northward where he hadbeen attacked by bad Indians in canoes. Mr. Hunt was startled by thisintelligence, and made further inquiries. They informed him that theIndians had lashed their canoes to the ship, and fought until theykilled him and all his people. This is another instance of the clearnesswith which intelligence is transmitted from mouth to mouth among theIndian tribes. These tidings, though but partially credited by Mr. Hunt, filled his mind with anxious forebodings. He now endeavored to procurecanoes, in which to descend the Columbia, but none suitable forthe purpose were to be obtained above the Narrows; he continued on, therefore, the distance of twelve miles, and encamped on the bank ofthe river. The camp was soon surrounded by loitering savages, who wentprowling about seeking what they might pilfer. Being baffled by thevigilance of the guard, they endeavored to compass their ends byother means. Towards evening, a number of warriors entered the camp inruffling style; painted and dressed out as if for battle, and armed withlances, bows and arrows, and scalping knives. They informed Mr. Huntthat a party of thirty or forty braves were coming up from a villagebelow to attack the camp and carry off the horses, but that they weredetermined to stay with him and defend him. Mr. Hunt received them withgreat coldness, and, when they had finished their story, gave thema pipe to smoke. He then called up all hands, stationed sentinels indifferent quarters, but told them to keep as vigilant an eye within thecamp as without. 

The warriors were evidently baffled by these precautions, and, havingsmoked their pipe, and vapored off their valor, took their departure. The farce, however, did not end here. After a little while the warriorsreturned, ushering in another savage, still more heroically arrayed. This they announced as the chief of the belligerent village, but as agreat pacificator. His people had been furiously bent upon the attack, and would have doubtless carried it into effect, but this gallant chiefhad stood forth as the friend of white men, and had dispersed the throngby his own authority and prowess. Having vaunted this signal piece ofservice, there was a significant pause; all evidently expecting someadequate reward. Mr. Hunt again produced the pipe, smoked with thechieftain and his worthy compeers; but made no further demonstrationsof gratitude. They remained about the camp all night, but at daylightreturned, baffled and crestfallen, to their homes, with nothing butsmoke for their pains. 

Mr. Hunt now endeavored to procure canoes, of which he saw several aboutthe neighborhood, extremely well made, with elevated stems and sterns, some of them capable of carrying three thousand pounds weight. He foundit extremely difficult, however, to deal with these slippery people, who seemed much more inclined to pilfer. Notwithstanding a strict guardmaintained round the camp, various implements were stolen, andseveral horses carried off. Among the latter, we have to include thelong-cherished steed of Pierre Dorion. From some wilful caprice, that worthy pitched his tent at some distance from the main body, andtethered his invaluable steed beside it, from whence it was abstractedin the night, to the infinite chagrin and mortification of the hybridinterpreter. 

Having, after several days' negotiation, procured the requisite numberof canoes, Mr. Hunt would gladly have left this thievish neighborhood, but was detained until the 5th of February by violent head winds, accompanied by snow and rain. Even after he was enabled to get underway, he had still to struggle against contrary winds and tempestuousweather. The current of the river, however, was in his favor; havingmade a portage at the grand rapid, the canoes met with no furtherobstruction, and, on the afternoon of the 15th of February, swept roundan intervening cape, and came in sight of the infant settlement ofAstoria. After eleven months wandering in the wilderness, a great partof the time over trackless wastes, where the sight of a savage wigwamwas a rarity, we may imagine the delight of the poor weatherbeatentravellers, at beholding the embryo establishment, with its magazines, habitations, and picketed bulwarks, seated on a high point of land, dominating a beautiful little bay, in which was a trim-built shallopriding quietly at anchor. A shout of joy burst from each canoe at thelong-wished-for sight. They urged their canoes across the bay, andpulled with eagerness for shore, where all hands poured down from thesettlement to receive and welcome them. Among the first to greet themon their landing, were some of their old comrades and fellow-sufferers, who, under the conduct of Reed, M'Lellan, and M'Kenzie, had partedfrom them at the Caldron Linn. These had reached Astoria nearly a monthpreviously, and, judging from their own narrow escape from starvation, had given up Mr. Hunt and his followers as lost. Their greeting wasthe more warm and cordial. As to the Canadian voyageurs, their mutualfelicitations, as usual, were loud and vociferous, and it was almostludicrous to behold these ancient "comrades" and "confreres, " huggingand kissing each other on the river bank. 

When the first greetings were over, the different bands interchangedaccounts of their several wanderings, after separating at Snake River;we shall briefly notice a few of the leading particulars. It willbe recollected by the reader, that a small exploring detachment hadproceeded down the river, under the conduct of Mr. John Reed, a clerk ofthe company; that another had set off under M'Lellan, and a third in adifferent direction, under M'Kenzie. After wandering for several dayswithout meeting with Indians, or obtaining any supplies, they cametogether fortuitously among the Snake River mountains, some distancebelow that disastrous pass or strait which had received the appellationof the Devil's Scuttle Hole. 

When thus united, their party consisted of M'Kenzie, M'Lellan, Reed, andeight men, chiefly Canadians. Being all in the same predicament, withouthorses, provisions, or information of any kind, they all agreed that itwould be worse than useless to return to Mr. Hunt and encumber himwith so many starving men, and that their only course was to extricatethemselves as soon as possible from this land of famine and misery andmake the best of their way for the Columbia. They accordingly continuedto follow the downward course of Snake River; clambering rocks andmountains, and defying all the difficulties and dangers of that ruggeddefile, which subsequently, when the snows had fallen, was foundimpassable by Messrs. Hunt and Crooks. 

Though constantly near to the borders of the river, and for a greatpart of the time within sight of its current, one of their greatestsufferings was thirst. The river had worn its way in a deep channelthrough rocky mountains, destitute of brooks or springs. Its bankswere so high and precipitous, that there was rarely any place wherethe travellers could get down to drink of its waters. Frequently theysuffered for miles the torments of Tantalus; water continually withinsight, yet fevered with the most parching thirst. Here and there theymet with rainwater collected in the hollows of the rocks, but more thanonce they were reduced to the utmost extremity; and some of the men hadrecourse to the last expedient to avoid perishing. 

Their sufferings from hunger were equally severe. They could meet withno game, and subsisted for a time on strips of beaver skin, broiled onthe coals. These were doled out in scanty allowances, barely sufficientto keep up existence, and at length failed them altogether. Still theycrept feebly on, scarce dragging one limb after another, until a severesnow-storm brought them to a pause. To struggle against it, in theirexhausted condition, was impossible, so cowering under an impendingrock at the foot of a steep mountain, they prepared themselves for thatwretched fate which seemed inevitable. 

At this critical juncture, when famine stared them in the face, M'Lellancasting up his eyes, beheld an ahsahta, or bighorn, sheltering itselfunder a shelving rock on the side of the hill above them. Being in amore active plight than any of his comrades, and an excellent marksman, he set off to get within shot of the animal. His companions watched hismovements with breathless anxiety, for their lives depended upon hissuccess. He made a cautious circuit; scrambled up the hill with theutmost silence, and at length arrived, unperceived, within a properdistance. Here leveling his rifle he took so sure an aim, that thebighorn fell dead on the spot; a fortunate circumstance, for, to pursueit, if merely wounded, would have been impossible in his emaciatedstate. The declivity of the hill enabled him to roll the carcass downto his companions, who were too feeble to climb the rocks. They fell towork to cut it up; yet exerted a remarkable self-denial for men in theirstarving condition, for they contented themselves for the present witha soup made from the bones, reserving the flesh for future repasts. Thisprovidential relief gave them strength to pursue their journey, but theywere frequently reduced to almost equal straits, and it was only thesmallness of their party, requiring a small supply of provisions, thatenabled them to get through this desolate region with their lives. 

At length, after twenty-one days of to 11 and suffering, they gotthrough these mountains, and arrived at a tributary stream of thatbranch of the Columbia called Lewis River, of which Snake River formsthe southern fork. In this neighborhood they met with wild horses, thefirst they had seen west of the Rocky Mountains. From hence they madetheir way to Lewis River, where they fell in with a friendly tribe ofIndians, who freely administered to their necessities. On this riverthey procured two canoes, in which they dropped down the stream to itsconfluence with the Columbia, and then down that river to Astoria, wherethey arrived haggard and emaciated, and perfectly in rags. 

Thus, all the leading persons of Mr. Hunt's expedition were oncemore gathered together, excepting Mr. Crooks, of whose safety theyentertained but little hope, considering the feeble condition in whichthey had been compelled to leave him in the heart of the wilderness. 

A day was now given up to jubilee, to celebrate the arrival of Mr. Huntand his companions, and the joyful meeting of the various scatteredbands of adventurers at Astoria. The colors were hoisted; the guns, great and small, were fired; there was a feast of fish, of beaver, andvenison, which relished well with men who had so long been glad to revelon horse flesh and dogs' meat; a genial allowance of grog was issued, toincrease the general animation, and the festivities wound up, as usual, with a grand dance at night, by the Canadian voyageurs. *

 *The distance from St. Louis to Astoria, by the route travelled by Hunt and M'Kenzie, was upwards of thirty-five hundred miles, though in a direct line it does not exceed eighteen hundred. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

 Scanty Fare During the Winter. --A Poor Hunting Ground. --The Return of the Fishing Season. --The Uthlecan or Smelt. --Its Qualities. --Vast Shoals of it. --Sturgeon. --Indian Modes of Taking It. --The Salmon--Different Species. --Nature of the Country About the Coast. --Forests and Forest Trees. --A Remarkable Flowering Vine. --Animals. --Birds. --Reptiles-- Climate West of the Mountains--Mildness of the Temperature. --Soil of the Coast and the Interior. 

THE winter passed away tranquilly at Astoria. The apprehensions ofhostility from the natives had subsided; indeed, as the season advanced, the Indians for the most part had disappeared from the neighborhood, andabandoned the sea-coast, so that, for want of their aid, the colonistshad at times suffered considerably for want of provisions. The huntersbelonging to the establishment made frequent and wide excursions, butwith very moderate success. There were some deer and a few bears to befound in the vicinity, and elk in great numbers; the country, however, was so rough, and the woods so close and entangled that it was almostimpossible to beat up the game. The prevalent rains of winter, also, rendered it difficult for the hunter to keep his arms in order. Thequantity of game, therefore, brought in by the hunters was extremelyscanty, and it was frequently necessary to put all hands on verymoderate allowance. Towards spring, however, the fishing seasoncommenced--the season of plenty on the Columbia. About the beginningof February, a small kind of fish, about six inches long, called by thenatives the uthlecan, and resembling the smelt, made its appearance atthe mouth of the river. It is said to be of delicious flavor, and so fatas to burn like a candle, for which it is often used by the natives. Itenters the river in immense shoals, like solid columns, often extendingto the depth of five or more feet, and is scooped up by the natives withsmall nets at the end of poles. In this way they will soon fill a canoe, or form a great heap upon the river banks. These fish constitute aprincipal article of their food; the women drying them and stringingthem on cords. As the uthlecan is only found in the lower part of theriver, the arrival of it soon brought back the natives to the coast;who again resorted to the factory to trade, and from that time furnishedplentiful supplies of fish. 

The sturgeon makes its appearance in the river shortly after theuthlecan, and is taken in different ways by the natives: sometimesthey spear it; but oftener they use the hook and line, and the net. Occasionally, they sink a cord in the river by a heavy weight, with abuoy at the upper end, to keep floating. To this cord several hooks areattached by short lines, a few feet distant from each other, and baitedwith small fish. This apparatus is often set towards night, and by thenext morning several sturgeon will be found hooked by it; for though alarge and strong fish, it makes but little resistance when ensnared. 

The salmon, which are the prime fish of the Columbia, and as importantto the piscatory tribes as are the buffaloes to the hunters of theprairies, do not enter the river until towards the latter part of May, from which time, until the middle of August, they abound and are takenin vast quantities, either with the spear or seine, and mostly inshallow water. An inferior species succeeds, and continues from Augustto December. It is remarkable for having a double row of teeth, half aninch long and extremely sharp, from whence it has received the name ofthe dog-toothed salmon. It is generally killed with the spear in smallrivulets, and smoked for winter provision. We have noticed in a formerchapter the mode in which the salmon are taken and cured at the fallsof the Columbia; and put tip in parcels for exportation. From thesedifferent fisheries of the river tribes, the establishment at Astoriahad to derive much of its precarious supplies of provisions. 

A year's residence at the mouth of the Columbia, and various expeditionsin the interior, had now given the Astorians some idea of the country. The whole coast is described as remarkably rugged and mountainous; withdense forests of hemlock, spruce, white and red cedar, cotton-wood, white oak, white and swamp ash, willow, and a few walnut. There islikewise an undergrowth of aromatic shrubs, creepers, and clamberingvines, that render the forests almost impenetrable; together withberries of various kinds, such as gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, both red and yellow, very large and finely flavoredwhortleberries, cranberries, serviceberries, blackberries, currants, sloes, and wild and choke cherries. 

Among the flowering vines is one deserving of particular notice. Eachflower is composed of six leaves or petals, about three inches inlength, of a beautiful crimson, the inside spotted with white. Itsleaves, of a fine green, are oval, and disposed by threes. This plantclimbs upon the trees without attaching itself to them; when it hasreached the topmost branches, it descends perpendicularly, and as itcontinues to grow, extends from tree to tree, until its various stalksinterlace the grove like the rigging of a ship. The stems or trunks ofthis vine are tougher and more flexible than willow, and are fromfifty to one hundred fathoms in length. From the fibres, the Indiansmanufacture baskets of such close texture as to hold water. 

The principal quadrupeds that had been seen by the colonists in theirvarious expeditions were the stag, fallow deer, hart, black and grizzlybear, antelope, ahsahta or bighorn, beaver, sea and river otter, muskrat, fox, wolf, and panther, the latter extremely rare. The onlydomestic animals among the natives were horses and dogs. 

The country abounded with aquatic and land birds, such as swans, wildgeese, brant, ducks of almost every description, pelicans, herons, gulls, snipes, curlews, eagles, vultures, crows, ravens, magpies, woodpeckers, pigeons, partridges, pheasants, grouse, and a great varietyof singing birds. 

There were few reptiles; the only dangerous kinds were the rattlesnake, and one striped with black, yellow, and white, about four feet long. Among the lizard kind was one about nine or ten inches in length, exclusive of the tall, and three inches in circumference. The tail wasround, and of the same length as the body. The head was triangular, covered with small square scales. The upper part of the body waslikewise covered with small scales, green, yellow, black, and blue. Eachfoot had five toes, furnished with strong nails, probably to aid it inburrowing, as it usually lived under ground on the plains. 

A remarkable fact, characteristic of the country west of the RockyMountains, is the mildness and equability of the climate. The greatmountain barrier seems to divide the continent into different climates, even in the same degrees of latitude. The rigorous winters and sultrysummers, and all the capricious inequalities of temperature prevalent onthe Atlantic side of the mountains, are but little felt on their westerndeclivities. The countries between them and the Pacific are blessed withmilder and steadier temperature, resembling the climates of parallellatitudes in Europe. In the plains and valleys but little snow fallsthroughout the winter, and usually melts while falling. It rarely lieson the ground more than two days at a time, except on the summits of themountains. The winters are rainy rather than cold. The rains for fivemonths, from the middle of October to the middle of March, are almostincessant, and often accompanied by tremendous thunder and lightning. The winds prevalent at this season are from the south and southeast, which usually bring rain. Those from the north to the southwest are theharbingers of fair weather and a clear sky. The residue of the year, from the middle of March to the middle of October, an interval of sevenmonths, is serene and delightful. There is scarcely any rain throughoutthis time, yet the face of the country is kept fresh and verdant bynightly dews, and occasionally by humid fogs in the mornings. These arenot considered prejudicial to health, since both the natives and thewhites sleep in the open air with perfect impunity. While this equableand bland temperature prevails throughout the lower country, the peaksand ridges of the vast mountains by which it is dominated, are coveredwith perpetual snow. This renders them discernible at a great distance, shining at times like bright summer clouds, at other times assuming themost aerial tints, and always forming brilliant and striking featuresin the vast landscape. The mild temperature prevalent throughout thecountry is attributed by some to the succession of winds from thePacific Ocean, extending from latitude twenty degrees to at least fiftydegrees north. These temper the heat of summer, so that in the shadeno one is incommoded by perspiration; they also soften the rigorsof winter, and produce such a moderation in the climate, that theinhabitants can wear the same dress throughout the year. 

The soil in the neighborhood of the sea-coast is of a brown color, inclining to red, and generally poor; being a mixture of clay andgravel. In the interior, and especially in the valleys of the RockyMountains, the soil is generally blackish, though sometimes yellow. Itis frequently mixed with marl, and with marine substances in a state ofdecomposition. This kind of soil extends to a considerable depth, asmay be perceived in the deep cuts made by ravines, and by the beds ofrivers. The vegetation in these valleys is much more abundant than nearthe coast; in fact, it is these fertile intervals, locked up betweenrocky sierras, or scooped out from barren wastes, that population mustextend itself, as it were, in veins and ramifications, if ever theregions beyond the mountains should become civilized. 

CHAPTER XL. 

 Natives in the Neighborhood of Astoria--Their Persons and Characteristics. --Causes of Deformity--Their Dress. -- Their Contempt of Beards--Ornaments--Armor and Weapons. -Mode of Flattening the Head. --Extent of the Custom. --Religious Belief. -The Two Great Spirits of the Air and of the Fire. -- Priests or Medicine Men. --The Rival Idols. --Polygamy a Cause of Greatness-Petty Warfare. --Music, Dancing, Gambling. -- Thieving a Virtue. --Keen Traders--Intrusive Habits-- Abhorrence of Drunkenness--Anecdote of Comcomly. 

A BRIEF mention has already been made of the tribes or hordes existingabout the lower part of the Columbia at the time of the settlement; afew more particulars concerning them may be acceptable. The four tribesnearest to Astoria, and with whom the traders had most intercourse, were, as has heretofore been observed, the Chinooks, the Clatsops, theWahkiacums, and the Cathlamets. The Chinooks reside chiefly along thebanks of a river of the same name, running parallel to the sea-coast, through a low country studded with stagnant pools, and emptying itselfinto Baker's Bay, a few miles from Cape Disappointment. This was thetribe over which Comcomly, the one-eyed chieftain, held sway; it boastedtwo hundred and fourteen fighting men. Their chief subsistence was onfish, with an occasional regale of the flesh of elk and deer, and ofwild-fowl from the neighboring ponds. 

The Clatsops resided on both sides of Point Adams; they were the mererelics of a tribe which had been nearly swept off by the small-pox, anddid not number more than one hundred and eighty fighting men. 

The Wahkiacums, or Waak-i-cums, inhabited the north side of theColumbia, and numbered sixty-six warriors. They and the Chinookswere originally the same; but a dispute arising about two generationsprevious to the time of the settlement, between the ruling chief and hisbrother Wahkiacum, the latter seceded, and with his adherents formed thepresent horde which continues to go by his name. In this way new tribesor clans are formed, and lurking causes of hostility engendered. 

The Cathlamets lived opposite to the lower village of the Wahkiacums, and numbered ninety-four warriors. 

These four tribes, or rather clans, have every appearance of springingfrom the same origin, resembling each other in person, dress, language, and manners. They are rather a diminutive race, generally below fivefeet five inches, with crooked legs and thick ankles--a deformitycaused by their passing so much of their time sitting or squattingupon the calves of their legs and their heels, in the bottom of theircanoes--a favorite position, which they retain, even when on shore. Thewomen increase the deformity by wearing tight bandages round the ankles, which prevent the circulation of the blood, and cause a swelling of themuscles of the leg. 

Neither sex can boast of personal beauty. Their faces are round, withsmall but animated eyes. Their noses are broad and flat at top, andfleshy at the end, with large nostrils. They have wide mouths, thicklips, and short, irregular and dirty teeth. Indeed good teeth are seldomto be seen among the tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, who live simplyon fish. 

In the early stages of their intercourse with white men, these savageswere but scantily clad. In summer time the men went entirely naked; inthe winter and in bad weather the men wore a small robe, reaching to themiddle of the thigh, made of the skins of animals, or of the wool of themountain sheep. Occasionally, they wore a kind of mantle of matting, to keep off the rain but, having thus protected the back and shoulders, they left the rest of the body naked. 

The women wore similar robes, though shorter, not reaching below thewaist; besides which, they had a kind of petticoat, or fringe, reachingfrom the waist to the knee, formed of the fibres of cedar bark, brokeninto strands, or a tissue of silk grass twisted and knotted at the ends. This was the usual dress of the women in summer; should the weather beinclement, they added a vest of skins, similar to the robe. 

The men carefully eradicated every vestige of a beard, considering ita great deformity. They looked with disgust at the whiskers andwell-furnished chins of the white men, and in derision called themLong-beards. Both sexes, on the other hand, cherished the hair of thehead, which with them is generally black and rather coarse. They allowedit to grow to a great length and were very proud and careful of it, sometimes wearing it plaited, sometimes wound round the head in fancifultresses. No greater affront could be offered to them than to cut offtheir treasured locks. 

They had conical hats with narrow rims, neatly woven of bear grass or ofthe fibres of cedar bark, interwoven with designs of various shapesand colors; sometimes merely squares and triangles, at other times ruderepresentations of canoes, with men fishing and harpooning. These hatswere nearly waterproof, and extremely durable. 

The favorite ornaments of the men were collars of bears' claws, theproud trophies of hunting exploits; while the women and children woresimilar decorations of elks' tusks. An intercourse with the whitetraders, however, soon effected a change in the toilets of both sexes. They became fond of arraying themselves in any article of civilizeddress which they could procure, and often made a most grotesqueappearance. They adapted many articles of finery, also, to their ownprevious tastes. Both sexes were fond of adorning themselves withbracelets of iron, brass, or copper. They were delighted, also, withblue and white beads, particularly the former, and wore broad tightbands of them round the waist and ankles, large rolls of them roundthe neck, and pendants of them in the ears. The men, especially, whoin savage life carry a passion for personal decoration further than thefemales, did not think their gala equipments complete unless they hada jewel of hiaqua, or wampum, dangling at the nose. Thus arrayed, theirhair besmeared with fish oil, and their bodies bedaubed with red clay, they considered themselves irresistible. 

When on warlike expeditions, they painted their faces and bodies in themost hideous and grotesque manner, according to the universal practiceof American savages. Their arms were bows and arrows, spears, and warclubs. Some wore a corselet of pieces of hard wood laced together withbear grass, so as to form a light coat of mail, pliant to the body; anda kind of casque of cedar bark, leather, and bear grass, sufficient toprotect the head from an arrow or war club. A more complete article ofdefensive armor was a buff jerkin or shirt of great thickness, made ofdoublings of elk skin, and reaching to the feet, holes being left forthe head and arms. This was perfectly arrowproof; add to which, it wasoften endowed with charmed virtues, by the spells and mystic ceremonialsof the medicine man, or conjurer. 

Of the peculiar custom, prevalent among these people, of flatteningthe head, we have already spoken. It is one of those instances of humancaprice, like the crippling of the feet of females in China, whichare quite incomprehensible. This custom prevails principally among thetribes on the sea-coast, and about the lower parts of the rivers. Howfar it extends along the coast we are not able to ascertain. Some of thetribes, both north and south of the Columbia, practice it; but they allspeak the Chinook language, and probably originated from the same stock. As far as we can learn, the remoter tribes, which speak an entirelydifferent language, do not flatten the head. This absurd customdeclines, also, in receding from the shores of the Pacific; few tracesof it are to be found among the tribes of the Rocky Mountains, andafter crossing the mountains it disappears altogether. Those Indians, therefore, about the head waters of the Columbia, and in the solitarymountain regions, who are often called Flatheads, must not be supposedto be characterized by this deformity. It is an appellation often givenby the hunters east of the mountain chain, to all western Indians, excepting the Snakes. 

The religious belief of these people was extremely limited and confined;or rather, in all probability, their explanations were but littleunderstood by their visitors. They had an idea of a benevolent andomnipotent spirit, the creator of all things. They represent him asassuming various shapes at pleasure, but generally that of an immensebird. He usually inhabits the sun, but occasionally wings his waythrough the aerial regions, and sees all that is doing upon earth. Should anything displease him, he vents his wrath in terrific storms andtempests, the lightning being the flashes of his eyes, and the thunderthe clapping of his wings. To propitiate his favor they offer to himannual sacrifices of salmon and venison, the first fruits of theirfishing and hunting. 

Besides this aerial spirit they believe in an inferior one, who inhabitsthe fire, and of whom they are in perpetual dread, as, though hepossesses equally the power of good and evil, the evil is apt topredominate. They endeavor, therefore, to keep him in good humor byfrequent offerings. He is supposed also to have great influence with thewinged spirit, their sovereign protector and benefactor. They implorehim, therefore, to act as their interpreter, and procure them alldesirable things, such as success in fishing and hunting, abundance ofgame, fleet horses, obedient wives, and male children. 

These Indians have likewise their priests, or conjurers, or medicinemen, who pretend to be in the confidence of the deities, and theexpounders and enforcers of their will. Each of these medicine men hashis idols carved in wood, representing the spirits of the air and of thefire, under some rude and grotesque form of a horse, a bear, a beaver, or other quadruped, or that of bird or fish. These idols are hung roundwith amulets and votive offerings, such as beavers' teeth, and bears'and eagles' claws. 

When any chief personage is on his death-bed, or dangerously ill, themedicine men are sent for. Each brings with him his idols, with whichhe retires into a canoe to hold a consultation. As doctors are prone todisagree, so these medicine men have now and then a violent altercationas to the malady of the patient, or the treatment of it. To settle thisthey beat their idols soundly against each other; whichever first losesa tooth or a claw is considered as confuted, and his votary retires fromthe field. Polygamy is not only allowed, but considered honorable, andthe greater number of wives a man can maintain, the more important is hein the eyes of the tribe. The first wife, however, takes rank of allthe others, and is considered mistress of the house. Still the domesticestablishment is liable to jealousies and cabals, and the lord andmaster has much difficulty in maintaining harmony in his janglinghousehold. 

In the manuscript from which we draw many of these particulars, it isstated that he who exceeds his neighbors in the number of his wives, male children, and slaves, is elected chief of the village; a title tooffice which we do not recollect ever before to have met with. 

Feuds are frequent among these tribes, but are not very deadly. Theyhave occasionally pitched battles, fought on appointed days, and atspecific places, which are generally the banks of a rivulet. The adverseparties post themselves on the opposite sides of the stream, and at suchdistances that the battles often last a long while before any bloodis shed. The number of killed and wounded seldom exceed half a dozen. Should the damage be equal on each side, the war is considered ashonorably concluded; should one party lose more than the other, itis entitled to a compensation in slaves or other property, otherwisehostilities are liable to be renewed at a future day. They are alsogiven to predatory inroads into the territories of their enemies, andsometimes of their friendly neighbors. Should they fall upon a band ofinferior force, or upon a village, weakly defended, they act with theferocity of true poltroons, slaying all the men, and carrying off thewomen and children as slaves. As to the property, it is packed uponhorses which they bring with them for the purpose. They are mean andpaltry as warriors, and altogether inferior in heroic qualities to thesavages of the buffalo plains on the east side of the mountains. 

A great portion of their time is passed in revelry, music, dancing, andgambling. Their music scarcely deserves the name; the instruments beingof the rudest kind. Their singing is harsh and discordant; the songsare chiefly extempore, relating to passing circumstances, the personspresent, or any trifling object that strikes the attention of thesinger. They have several kinds of dances, some of them lively andpleasing. The women are rarely permitted to dance with the men, but formgroups apart, dancing to the same instrument and song. 

They have a great passion for play, and a variety of games. To such apitch of excitement are they sometimes roused, that they gamble awayeverything they possess, even to their wives and children. They arenotorious thieves, also, and proud of their dexterity. He who isfrequently successful, gains much applause and popularity; but theclumsy thief, who is detected in some bungling attempt, is scoffed atand despised, and sometimes severely punished. 

Such are a few leading characteristics of the natives in theneighborhood of Astoria. They appear to us inferior in many respects tothe tribes east of the mountains, the bold rovers of the prairies; andto partake much of Esquimaux character; elevated in some degree by amore genial climate and more varied living style. 

The habits of traffic engendered at the cataracts of the Columbia, havehad their influence along the coast. The Chinooks and other Indiansat the mouth of the river, soon proved themselves keen traders, and intheir early dealings with the Astorians never hesitated to ask threetimes what they considered the real value of an article. They wereinquisitive, also, in the extreme, and impertinently intrusive; andwere prone to indulge in scoffing and ridicule at the expense of thestrangers. 

In one thing, however, they showed superior judgment and self-command tomost of their race; this was, in their abstinence from ardent spirits, and the abhorrence and disgust with which they regarded a drunkard. Onone occasion a son of Comcomly had been induced to drink freely at thefactory, and went home in a state of intoxication, playing all kinds ofmad pranks, until he sank into a stupor, in which he remained fortwo days. The old chieftain repaired to his friend, M'Dougal, withindignation flaming in his countenance, and bitterly reproached him forhaving permitted his son to degrade himself into a beast, and to renderhimself an object of scorn and laughter to his slave. 

CHAPTER XLI. 

 Spring Arrangements at Astoria. --Various Expeditions Set Out. -The Long Narrows. --Pilfering Indians. --Thievish Tribe at Wish-ram. --Portage at the Falls--Portage by Moonlight. -- An Attack, a Route, and a Robbery. --Indian Cure for Cowardice. --A Parley and Compromise. --The Despatch Party Turn Back. --Meet Crooks and John Day. --Their Sufferings. -- Indian Perfidy. --Arrival at Astoria. 

AS the spring opened, the little settlement of Astoria was in agitation, and prepared to send forth various expeditions. Several important thingswere to be done. It was necessary to send a supply of goods to thetrading post of Mr. David Stuart, established in the preceding autumnon the Oakinagan. The cache, or secret deposit, made by Mr. Hunt at theCaldron Linn, was likewise to be visited, and the merchandise and othereffects left there, to be brought to Astoria. A third object of momentwas to send despatches overland to Mr. Astor at New York, informinghim of the state of affairs at the settlement, and the fortunes of theseveral expeditions. 

The task of carrying supplies to Oakinagan was assigned to Mr. RobertStuart, a spirited and enterprising young man, nephew to the one whohad established the post. The cache was to be sought out by two of theclerks, named Russell Farnham and Donald M'Gilles, conducted by a guide, and accompanied by eight men, to assist in bringing home the goods. 

As to the despatches, they were confided to Mr. John Reed, the clerk, the same who had conducted one of the exploring detachments of SnakeRiver. He was now to trace back his way across the mountains by the sameroute by which he had come, with no other companions or escort than BenJones, the Kentucky hunter, and two Canadians. As it was still hopedthat Mr. Crooks might be in existence, and that Mr. Reed and his partymight meet with him in the course of their route, they were charged witha small supply of goods and provisions, to aid that gentleman on his wayto Astoria. 

When the expedition of Reed was made known, Mr. M'Lellan announced hisdetermination to accompany it. He had long been dissatisfied with thesmallness of his interest in the copartnership, and had requested anadditional number of shares; his request not being complied with, heresolved to abandon the company. M'Lellan was a man of a singularlyself-willed and decided character, with whom persuasion was useless; hewas permitted, therefore, to take his own course without opposition. 

As to Reed, he set about preparing for his hazardous journey with thezeal of a true Irishman. He had a tin case made, in which the lettersand papers addressed to Mr. Astor were carefully soldered up. This casehe intended to strap upon his shoulders, so as to bear it about withhim, sleeping and waking, in all changes and chances, by land or bywater, and never to part with it but with his life!

As the route of these several parties would be the same for nearlyfour hundred miles up the Columbia, and within that distance would liethrough the piratical pass of the rapids, and among the freebootingtribes of the river, it was thought advisable to start about the sametime, and to keep together. Accordingly, on the 22d of March, they allset off, to the number of seventeen men, in two canoes--and here wecannot but pause to notice the hardihood of these several expeditions, so insignificant in point of force, and severally destined to traverseimmense wildernesses where larger parties had experienced so much dangerand distress. When recruits were sought in the preceding year amongexperienced hunters and voyageurs at Montreal and St. Louis, it wasconsidered dangerous to attempt to cross the Rocky Mountains with lessthan sixty men; and yet here we find Reed ready to push his way acrossthose barriers with merely three companions. Such is the fearlessness, the insensibility to danger, which men acquire by the habitude ofconstant risk. The mind, like the body, becomes callous by exposure. 

The little associated band proceeded up the river, under the command ofMr. Robert Stuart, and arrived early in the month of April at the LongNarrows, that notorious plundering place. Here it was necessary tounload the canoes, and to transport both them and their cargoes to thehead of the Narrows by land. Their party was too few in number for thepurpose. They were obliged, therefore, to seek the assistance of theCathlasco Indians, who undertook to carry the goods on their horses. Forward then they set, the Indians with their horses well freighted, andthe first load convoyed by Reed and five men, well armed; the gallantIrishman striding along at the head, with his tin case of despatchesglittering on his back. In passing, however, through a rocky andintricate defile, some of the freebooting vagrants turned their horsesup a narrow path and galloped off, carrying with them two bales ofgoods, and a number of smaller articles. To follow them was useless;indeed, it was with much ado that the convoy got into port with theresidue of the cargoes; for some of the guards were pillaged of theirknives and pocket handkerchiefs, and the lustrous tin case of Mr. JohnReed was in imminent jeopardy. 

Mr. Stuart heard of these depredations, and hastened forward to therelief of the convoy, but could not reach them before dusk, by whichtime they had arrived at the village of Wish-ram, already noted for itsgreat fishery, and the knavish propensities of its inhabitants. Herethey found themselves benighted in a strange place, and surrounded bysavages bent on pilfering, if not upon open robbery. Not knowing whatactive course to take, they remained under arms all night, withoutclosing an eye, and at the very first peep of dawn, when objects wereyet scarce visible, everything was hastily embarked, and, withoutseeking to recover the stolen effects, they pushed off from shore, "gladto bid adieu, " as they said, "to this abominable nest of miscreants. "

The worthies of Wish-ram, however, were not disposed to part so easilywith their visitors. Their cupidity had been quickened by the plunderwhich they had already taken, and their confidence increased by theimpunity with which their outrage had passed. They resolved, therefore, to take further toll of the travellers, and, if possible, to capture thetin case of despatches; which shining conspicuously from afar, and beingguarded by John Reed with such especial care, must, as they supposed, be"a great medicine. "

Accordingly, Mr. Stuart and his comrades had not proceeded far in thecanoes, when they beheld the whole rabble of Wishram stringing ingroups along the bank, whooping and yelling, and gibbering in their wildjargon, and when they landed below the falls, they were surrounded byupwards of four hundred of these river ruffians, armed with bows andarrows, war clubs, and other savage weapons. These now pressed forward, with offers to carry the canoes and effects up the portage. Mr Stuartdeclined forwarding the goods, alleging the lateness of the hour; but, to keep them in good humor, informed them, that, if they conductedthemselves well, their offered services might probably be accepted inthe morning; in the meanwhile, he suggested that they might carry up thecanoes. They accordingly set off with the two canoes on their shoulders, accompanied by a guard of eight men well armed. 

When arrived at the head of the falls, the mischievous spirit of thesavages broke out, and they were on the point of destroying the canoes, doubtless with a view to impede the white men from carrying forwardtheir goods, and laying them open to further pilfering. They werewith some difficulty prevented from committing this outrage by theinterference of an old man, who appeared to have authority among them;and, in consequence of his harangue, the whole of the hostile band, withthe exception of about fifty, crossed to the north side of the river, where they lay in wait, ready for further mischief. 

In the meantime, Mr. Stuart, who had remained at the foot of the fallswith the goods, and who knew that the proffered assistance of thesavages was only for the purpose of having an opportunity to plunder, determined, if possible, to steal a march upon them, and defeat theirmachinations. In the dead of the night, therefore, about one o'clock, the moon shining brightly, he roused his party, and proposed that theyshould endeavor to transport the goods themselves, above the falls, before the sleeping savages could be aware of their operations. Allhands sprang to the work with zeal, and hurried it on in the hope ofgetting all over before daylight. Mr. Stuart went forward with the firstloads, and took his station at the head of the portage, while Mr. Reedand Mr. M'Lellan remained at the foot to forward the remainder. 

The day dawned before the transportation was completed. Some of thefifty Indians who had remained on the south side of the river, perceivedwhat was going on, and, feeling themselves too weak for an attack, gavethe alarm to those on the opposite side, upwards of a hundred of whomembarked in several large canoes. Two loads of goods yet remained tobe brought up. Mr. Stuart despatched some of the people for one of theloads, with a request to Mr. Reed to retain with him as many of the menas he thought necessary to guard the remaining load, as he suspectedhostile intentions on the part of the Indians. Mr. Reed, however, refused to retain any of them, saying that M'Lellan and himselfwere sufficient to protect the small quantity that remained. Themen accordingly departed with the load, while Mr. Reed and M'Lellancontinued to mount guard over the residue. By this time, a number of thecanoes had arrived from the opposite side. As they approached the shore, the unlucky tin box of John Reed, shining afar like the brilliant helmetof Euryalus, caught their eyes. No sooner did the canoes touch theshore, than they leaped forward on the rocks, set up a war-whoop, andsprang forward to secure the glittering prize. Mr. M'Lellan, who was atthe river bank, advanced to guard the goods, when one of the savages attempted to hoodwink him with his buffalo robe with one hand, and to stabhim with the other. M'Lellan sprang back just far enough to avoid theblow, and raising his rifle, shot the ruffian through the heart. 

In the meantime, Reed, who with the want of forethought of an Irishman, had neglected to remove the leathern cover from the lock of his rifle, was fumbling at the fastenings, when he received a blow on the head witha war club that laid him senseless on the ground. In a twinkling he wasstripped of his rifle and pistols, and the tin box, the cause of allthis onslaught, was borne off in triumph. 

At this critical juncture, Mr. Stuart, who had heard the war-whoop, hastened to the scene of action with Ben Jones, and seven others of themen. When he arrived, Reed was weltering in his blood, and an Indianstanding over him and about to despatch him with a tomahawk. Stuart gavethe word, when Ben Jones leveled his rifle, and shot the miscreant onthe spot. The men then gave a cheer, and charged upon the main body ofthe savages, who took to instant flight. Reed was now raised fromthe ground, and borne senseless and bleeding to the upper end of theportage. Preparations were made to launch the canoes and embark inall haste, when it was found that they were too leaky to be put in thewater, and that the oars had been left at the foot of the falls. A sceneof confusion now ensued. The Indians were whooping and yelling, andrunning about like fiends. A panic seized upon the men, at being thussuddenly checked, the hearts of some of the Canadians died within them, and two young men actually fainted away. The moment they recovered theirsenses, Mr. Stuart ordered that they should be deprived of their arms, their under garments taken off, and that a piece of cloth should be tiedround their waists, in imitation of a squaw; an Indian punishment forcowardice. Thus equipped, they were stowed away among the goods in oneof the canoes. This ludicrous affair excited the mirth of the bolderspirits, even in the midst of their perils, and roused the pride of thewavering. The Indians having crossed back again to the north side, orderwas restored, some of the hands were sent back for the oars, others setto work to calk and launch the canoes, and in a little while all wereembarked and were continuing their voyage along the southern shore. 

No sooner had they departed, than the Indians returned to the scene ofaction, bore off their two comrades who had been shot, one of whomwas still living, and returned to their village. Here they killed twohorses; and drank the hot blood to give fierceness to their courage. They painted and arrayed themselves hideously for battle; performed thedead dance round the slain, and raised the war song of vengeance. Thenmounting their horses to the number of four hundred and fifty men, andbrandishing their weapons, they set off along the northern bank of theriver, to get ahead of the canoes, lie in wait for them, and take aterrible revenge on the white men. 

They succeeded in getting some distance above the canoes without beingdiscovered, and were crossing the river to post themselves on the sidealong which the white men were coasting, when they were fortunatelydescried. Mr. Stuart and his companions were immediately on the alert. As they drew near to the place where the savages had crossed, theyobserved them posted among steep and overhanging rocks, close alongwhich, the canoes would have to pass. Finding that the enemy had theadvantage of the ground, the whites stopped short when within fivehundred yards of them, and discharged and reloaded their pieces. Theythen made a fire, and dressed the wounds of Mr. Reed, who had receivedfive severe gashes in the head. This being done, they lashed the canoestogether, fastened them to a rock at a small distance from the shore, and there awaited the menaced attack. 

They had not been long posted in this manner, when they saw a canoeapproaching. It contained the war-chief of the tribe, and three of hisprincipal warriors. He drew near, and made a long harangue, in whichhe informed them that they had killed one and wounded another of hisnation; that the relations of the slain cried out for vengeance, andhe had been compelled to lead them to fight. Still he wished to spareunnecessary bloodshed; he proposed, therefore, that Mr. Reed, who, heobserved, was little better than a dead man, might be given up to besacrificed to the manes of the deceased warrior. This would appeasethe fury of his friends; the hatchet would then be buried, and allthenceforward would be friends. The answer was a stern refusal and adefiance, and the war-chief saw that the canoes were well prepared for avigorous defense. He withdrew, therefore, and returning to his warriorsamong the rocks held long deliberations. Blood for blood is a principlein Indian equity and Indian honor; but though the inhabitants ofWish-ram were men of war, they were likewise men of traffic, and it wassuggested that honor for once might give way to profit. A negotiationwas accordingly opened with the white men, and after some diplomacy, thematter was compromised for a blanket to cover the dead, and some tobaccoto be smoked by the living. This being granted, the heroes of Wish-ramcrossed the river once more, returned to their villages to feastupon the horses whose blood they had so vaingloriously drunk, and thetravellers pursued their voyage without further molestation. 

The tin case, however, containing the important despatches for NewYork, was irretrievably lost; the very precaution taken by the worthyHibernian to secure his missives, had, by rendering them conspicuous, produced their robbery. The object of his overland journey, therefore, being defeated, he gave up the expedition. The whole party repairedwith Mr. Robert Stuart to the establishment of Mr. David Stuart, on theOakinagan River. After remaining here two or three days, they all setout on their return to Astoria accompanied by Mr. David Stuart. Thisgentleman had a large quantity of beaver skins at his establishment, but did not think it prudent to take them with him fearing the levy of"black mail" at the falls. 

On their way down, when below the forks of the Columbia, they werehailed one day from the shore in English. Looking around, they descriedtwo wretched men, entirely naked. They pulled to shore; the men came upand made themselves known. They proved to be Mr. Crooks and his faithfulfollower, John Day. 

The reader will recollect that Mr. Crooks, with Day and four Canadians, had been so reduced by famine and fatigue, that Mr. Hunt was obliged toleave them, in the month of December, on the banks of the Snake River. Their situation was the more critical, as they were in the neighborhoodof a band of Shoshonies, whose horses had been forcibly seized by Mr. Hunt's party for provisions. Mr. Crooks remained here twenty days, detained by the extremely reduced state of John Day, who was utterlyunable to travel, and whom he would not abandon, as Day had been in hisemploy on the Missouri, and had always proved himself most faithful. Fortunately the Shoshonies did not offer to molest them. They had neverbefore seen white men, and seemed to entertain some superstitions withregard to them, for though they would encamp near them in the daytime, they would move off with their tents in the night; and finallydisappeared, without taking leave. 

When Day was sufficiently recovered to travel, they kept feebly on, sustaining themselves as well as they could, until in the month ofFebruary, when three of the Canadians, fearful of perishing with want, left Mr. Crooks on a small river, on the road by which Mr Hunt hadpassed in quest of Indians. Mr. Crooks followed Mr. Hunt's track in thesnow for several days, sleeping as usual in the open air, and sufferingall kinds of hardships. At length, coming to a low prairie, he lostevery appearance Of the "trail, " and wandered during the remainderof the winter in the mountains, subsisting sometimes on horse meat, sometimes on beavers and their skins, and a part of the time on roots. 

About the last of March, the other Canadian gave out and was left witha lodge of Shoshonies; but Mr. Crooks and John Day still kept on, and finding the snow sufficiently diminished, undertook, from Indianinformation, to cross the last mountain ridge. They happily succeeded, and afterwards fell in with the Wallah-Wallahs, a tribe of Indiansinhabiting the banks of a river of the same name, and reputed as beingfrank, hospitable, and sincere. They proved worthy of the character, forthey received the poor wanderers kindly, killed a horse for them to eat, and directed them on their way to the Columbia. They struck the riverabout the middle of April, and advanced down it one hundred miles, untilthey came within about twenty miles of the falls. 

Here they met with some of the "chivalry" of that noted pass, whoreceived them in a friendly way, and set food before them; but, whilethey were satisfying their hunger, perfidiously seized their rifles. They then stripped them naked, and drove them off, refusing theentreaties of Mr. Crooks for a flint and steel of which they had robbedhim; and threatening his life if he did not instantly depart. 

In this forlorn plight, still worse off than before, they renewed theirwanderings. They now sought to find their way back to the hospitableWallah-Wallahs, and had advanced eighty miles along the river, whenfortunately, on the very morning that they were going to leave theColumbia and strike inland, the canoes of Mr. Stuart hove in sight. 

It is needless to describe the joy of these poor men at once morefinding themselves among countrymen and friends, or of the honestand hearty welcome with which they were received by their fellowadventurers. The whole party now continued down the river, passed allthe dangerous places without interruption, and arrived safely at Astoriaon the 11th of May. 

CHAPTER XLII

 Comprehensive Views. --To Supply the Russian Fur Establishment. --An Agent Sent to Russia. --Project of an Annual Ship. --The Beaver Fitted Out. --Her Equipment and Crew. --Instructions to the Captain. --The Sandwich Islands. --Rumors of the Fate of the Tonquin. --Precautions on Reaching the Mouth of the Columbia. 

HAVING traced the fortunes of the two expeditions by sea and land to themouth of the Columbia, and presented a view of affairs at Astoria, wewill return for a moment to the master spirit of the enterprise, whoregulated the springs of Astoria, at his residence in New York. 

It will be remembered, that a part of the plan of Mr. Astor was tofurnish the Russian fur establishment on the northwest coast withregular supplies, so as to render it independent of those casual vesselswhich cut up the trade and supplied the natives with arms. This plan hadbeen countenanced by our own government, and likewise by Count Pahlen, the Russian minister at Washington. As its views, however, wereimportant and extensive, and might eventually affect a wide course ofcommerce, Mr Astor was desirous of establishing a complete arrangementon the subject with the Russian American Fur Company, under thesanction of the Russian government. For this purpose, in March 1811, he despatched a confidential agent to St. Petersburg, full empoweredto enter into the requisite negotiations. A passage was given to thisgentleman by the government of the United States in the John Adams, anarmed vessel, bound for Europe. 

The next step of Mr. Astor was, to despatch the annual ship contemplatedon his general plan. He had as yet heard nothing of the success ofthe previous expeditions, and had to proceed upon the presumptionthat everything had been effected according to his instructions. Heaccordingly fitted out a fine ship of four hundred and ninety tons, called the Beaver, and freighted her with a valuable cargo destined forthe factory at the mouth of the Columbia, the trade along the coast, and the supply of the Russian establishment. In this ship embarked areinforcement, consisting of a partner, five clerks, fifteen Americanlaborers, and six Canadian voyageurs. In choosing his agents for hisfirst expedition, Mr. Astor had been obliged to have recourse to Britishsubjects experienced in the Canadian fur trade; henceforth it was hisintention, as much as possible, to select Americans, so as to secure anascendency of American influence in the management of the company, andto make it decidedly national. 

Accordingly, Mr. John Clarke, the partner who took the lead in thepresent expedition, was a native of the United States, though he hadpassed much of his life in the northwest, having been employed in thetrade since the age of sixteen. Most of the clerks were young gentlemenof good connections in the American cities, some of whom embarked in thehope of gain, others through the mere spirit of adventure incident toyouth. 

The instructions given by Mr. Astor to Captain Sowle, the commander ofthe Beaver, were, in some respects, hypothetical, in consequence of theuncertainty resting upon the previous steps of the enterprise. 

He was to touch at the Sandwich Islands, inquire about the fortunes ofthe Tonquin, and whether an establishment had been formed at the mouthof the Columbia. If so, he was to take as many Sandwich Islanders as hisship could accommodate, and proceed thither. On arriving at the river, he was to observe great caution, for even if an establishment shouldhave been formed, it might have fallen into hostile hands. He was, therefore, to put in as if by casualty or distress, to give himself outas a coasting trader, and to say nothing about his ship being owned byMr. Astor, until he had ascertained that everything was right. In thatcase, he was to land such part of his cargo as was intended for theestablishment, and to proceed to New Archangel with the suppliesintended for the Russian post at that place, where he could receivepeltries in payment. With these he was to return to Astoria; take in thefurs collected there, and, having completed his cargo by trading alongthe coast, was to proceed to Canton. The captain received the sameinjunctions that had been given to Captain Thorn of the Tonquin, ofgreat caution and circumspection in his intercourse with the natives, and that he should not permit more than one or two to be on board at atime. 

The Beaver sailed from New York on the 10th of October, 1811, andreached the Sandwich Islands without any occurrence of moment. Here arumor was heard of the disastrous fate of the Tonquin. Deep solicitudewas felt by every one on board for the fate of both expeditions, by seaand land. Doubts were entertained whether any establishment had beenformed at the mouth of the Columbia, or whether any of the companywould be found there. After much deliberation, the Captain took twelveSandwich Islanders on board, for the service of the factory, shouldthere be one in existence, and proceeded on his voyage. 

On the 6th of May, he arrived off the mouth of the Columbia and runningas near as possible, fired two signal guns. No answer was returned, norwas there any signal to be descried. Nigh coming on, the ship stood outto sea, and every heart drooped as the land faded away. On the followingmorning they again ran in within four miles of shore, and fired othersignal guns, but still without reply. A boat was then despatched, tosound the channel, and attempt an entrance; but returned without successthere being a tremendous swell, and breakers. Signal guns were firedagain in the evening, but equally in vain, and once more the ship stoodoff to sea for the night. The captain now gave up all hope of findingany establishment at the place, and indulged in the most gloomyapprehensions. He feared his predecessor had been massacred before theyhad reached their place of destination; or if they should have erected afactory, that it had been surprised and destroyed by the natives. 

In this moment of doubt and uncertainty, Mr. Clarke announced hisdetermination, in case of the worst, to found an establishment withthe present party, and all hands bravely engaged to stand by him in theundertaking. The next morning the ship stood in for the third time, andfired three signal guns, but with little hope of reply. To the great joyof the crew, three distinct guns were heard in answer. The apprehensionsof all but Captain Sowle were now at rest. That cautious commanderrecollected the instructions given him by Mr. Astor, and determined toproceed with great circumspection. He was well aware of Indian treacheryand cunning. It was not impossible, he observed, that these cannon mighthave been fired by the savages themselves. They might have surprised thefort, massacred its inmates; and these signal guns might only be decoysto lure him across the bar, that they might have a chance of cutting himoff, and seizing his vessel. 

At length a white flag was descried hoisted as a signal on CapeDisappointment. The passengers pointed to it in triumph, but the captaindid not yet dismiss his doubts. A beacon fire blazed through the nighton the same place, but the captain observed that all these signals mightbe treacherous. 

On the following morning, May 9th, the vessel came to anchor off CapeDisappointment, outside of the bar. Towards noon an Indian canoe wasseen making for the ship and all hands were ordered to be on the alert. A few moments afterwards, a barge was perceived following the canoe. The hopes and fears of those on board of the ship were in tumultuousagitation, as the boat drew nigh that was to let them know the fortunesof the enterprise, and the fate of their predecessors. The captain, who was haunted with the idea of possible treachery, did not suffer hiscuriosity to get the better of his caution, but ordered a party of hismen under arms, to receive the visitors. The canoe came first alongside, in which were Comcomly and six Indians; in the barge were M'Dougal, M'Lellan, and eight Canadians. A little conversation with thesegentlemen dispelled all the captain's fears, and the Beaver crossing thebar under their pilotage, anchored safely in Baker's Bay. 

CHAPTER XLIII. 

 Active Operations at Astoria--Various Expeditions Fitted Out. --Robert Stuart and a Party Destined for New York-- Singular Conduct of John Day. --His Fate. --Piratical Pass and Hazardous Portage. -Rattlesnakes. --Their Abhorrence of Tobacco. --Arrival Among the Wallah-Wallahs. --Purchase of Horses--Departure of Stuart and His Band for the Mountains. 

THE arrival of the Beaver with a reinforcement and supplies, gave newlife and vigor to affairs at Astoria. These were means for extending theoperations of the establishment, and founding interior trading posts. Two parties were immediately set on foot to proceed severally under thecommand of Messrs. M'Kenzie and Clarke, and establish posts above theforks of the Columbia, at points where most rivalry and opposition wereapprehended from the Northwest Company. 

A third party, headed by Mr. David Stuart, was to repair with suppliesto the post of that gentleman on the Oakinagan. In addition to theseexpeditions, a fourth was necessary to convey despatches to Mr. Astor, at New York, in place of those unfortunately lost by John Reed. Thesafe conveyance of these despatches was highly important, as by them Mr. Astor would receive an account of the state of the factory, and regulatehis reinforcements and supplies accordingly. The mission was oneof peril and hardship and required a man of nerve and vigor. It wasconfided to Robert Stuart, who, though he had never been across themountains, and a very young man, had given proofs of his competency tothe task. Four trusty and well-tried men, who had come overland in Mr. Hunt's expedition, were given as his guides and hunters. These were BenJones and John Day, the Kentuckians, and Andri Vallar and Francis LeClerc, Canadians. Mr. M'Lellan again expressed his determination to takethis opportunity of returning to the Atlantic States. In this he wasjoined by Mr. Crooks, --who, notwithstanding all that he had sufferedin the dismal journey of the preceding winter, was ready to retracehis steps and brave every danger and hardship, rather than remain atAstoria. This little handful of adventurous men we propose to accompanyin its long and perilous peregrinations. 

The several parties we have mentioned all set off in company on the29th of June, under a salute of cannon from the fort. They were tokeep together for mutual protection through the piratical passes of theriver, and to separate, on their different destinations, at the forks ofthe Columbia. Their number, collectively, was nearly sixty, consistingof partners and clerks, Canadian voyageurs, Sandwich Islanders, andAmerican hunters; and they embarked in two barges and ten canoes. 

They had scarcely got under way, when John Day, the Kentucky hunter, became restless and uneasy, and extremely wayward in his deportment. This caused surprise, for in general he was remarkable for his cheerful, manly deportment. It was supposed that the recollection of pastsufferings might harass his mind in undertaking to retrace the sceneswhere they had been experienced. As the expedition advanced, however, his agitation increased. He began to talk wildly and incoherently, andto show manifest symptoms of derangement. 

Mr. Crooks now informed his companions that in his desolate wanderingsthrough the Snake River country during the preceding winter, in whichhe had been accompanied by John Day, the poor fellow's wits had beenpartially unsettled by the sufferings and horrors through which they hadpassed, and he doubted whether they had ever been restored to perfectsanity. It was still hoped that this agitation of spirits might passaway as they proceeded; but, on the contrary, it grew more and moreviolent. His comrades endeavored to divert his mind and to draw him intorational conversation, but he only became the more exasperated, utteringwild and incoherent ravings. The sight of any of the natives put himin an absolute fury, and he would heap on them the most opprobriousepithets; recollecting, no doubt, what he had suffered from Indianrobbers. 

On the evening of the 2d of July he became absolutely frantic, andattempted to destroy himself. Being disarmed, he sank into quietude, andprofessed the greatest remorse for the crime he had meditated. He thenpretended to sleep, and having thus lulled suspicion, suddenlysprang up, just before daylight, seized a pair of loaded pistols, andendeavored to blow out his brains. In his hurry he fired too high, andthe balls passed over his head. He was instantly secured and placedunder a guard in one of the boats. How to dispose of him was nowthe question, as it was impossible to keep him with the expedition. Fortunately Mr. Stuart met with some Indians accustomed to trade withAstoria. These undertook to conduct John Day back to the factory, anddeliver him there in safety. It was with the utmost concern that hiscomrades saw the poor fellow depart; for, independent of his invaluableservices as a first-rate hunter, his frank and loyal qualities had madehim a universal favorite. It may be as well to add that the Indiansexecuted their task faithfully, and landed John Day among his friends atAstoria; but his constitution was completely broken by the hardships hehad undergone, and he died within a year. 

On the evening of the 6th of July the party arrived at the piraticalpass of the river, and encamped at the foot of the first rapid. The nextday, before the commencement of the portage, the greatest precautionswere taken to guard against lurking treachery, or open attack. The weapons of every man were put in order, and his cartridge-boxreplenished. Each one wore a kind of surcoat made of the skin of theelk, reaching from his neck to his knees, and answering the purpose ofa shirt of mail, for it was arrow proof, and could even resist a musketball at the distance of ninety yards. Thus armed and equipped, theyposted their forces in military style. Five of the officers took theirstations at each end of the portage, which was between three and fourmiles in length; a number of men mounted guard at short distances alongthe heights immediately overlooking the river, while the residue, thusprotected from surprise, employed themselves below in dragging up thebarges and canoes, and carrying up the goods along the narrow margin ofthe rapids. With these precautions they all passed unmolested. The onlyaccident that happened was the upsetting of one of the canoes, bywhich some of the goods sunk, and others floated down the stream. Thealertness and rapacity of the hordes which infest these rapids, wereimmediately apparent. They pounced upon the floating merchandise withthe keenness of regular wreckers. A bale of goods which landed upon oneof the islands was immediately ripped open, one half of its contentsdivided among the captors, and the other half secreted in a lonely hutin a deep ravine. Mr. Robert Stuart, however, set out in a canoe withfive men and an interpreter, ferreted out the wreckers in their retreat, and succeeded in wrestling from them their booty. 

Similar precautions to those already mentioned, and to a still greaterextent, were observed in passing the Long Narrows, and the falls, wherethey would be exposed to the depredations of the chivalry of Wish-ram, and its freebooting neighborhood. In fact, they had scarcely set theirfirst watch one night, when an alarm of "Indians!" was given. "To arms"was the cry, and every man was at his post in an instant. The alarmwas explained; a war party of Shoshonies had surprised a canoe of thenatives just below the encampment, had murdered four men and two women, and it was apprehended they would attack the camp. The boats and canoeswere immediately hauled up, a breastwork was made of them and thepackages, forming three sides of a square, with the river in the rear, and thus the party remained fortified throughout the night. 

The dawn, however, dispelled the alarm; the portage was conducted inpeace; the vagabond warriors of the vicinity hovered about them whileat work, but were kept at a wary distance. They regarded the loadsof merchandise with wistful eyes, but seeing the "long-beards" soformidable in number, and so well prepared for action, they made noattempt either by open force or sly pilfering to collect their usualtoll, but maintained a peaceful demeanor, and were afterwards rewardedfor their good conduct with presents of tobacco. 

Fifteen days were consumed in ascending from the foot of the first rapidto the head of the falls, a distance of about eighty miles, but full ofall kinds of obstructions. Having happily accomplished these difficultportages, the party, on the 19th of July, arrived at a smoother part ofthe river, and pursued their way up the stream with greater speed andfacility. 

They were now in the neighborhood where Mr. Crooks and John Day hadbeen so perfidiously robbed and stripped a few months previously, whenconfiding in the proffered hospitality of a ruffian band. On landing atnight, therefore, a vigilant guard was maintained about the camp. On thefollowing morning a number of Indians made their appearance, and cameprowling round the party while at breakfast. To his great delight, Mr. Crooks recognized among them two of the miscreants by whom he had beenrobbed. They were instantly seized, bound hand and foot, and thrown intoone of the canoes. Here they lay in doleful fright, expecting summaryexecution. Mr. Crooks, however, was not of a revengeful disposition, andagreed to release the culprits as soon as the pillaged property shouldbe restored. Several savages immediately started off in differentdirections, and before night the rifles of Crooks and Day were produced;several of the smaller articles pilfered from them, however, could notbe recovered. 

The bands of the culprits were then removed, and they lost no time intaking their departure, still under the influence of abject terror, and scarcely crediting their senses that they had escaped the meritedpunishment of their offenses. 

The country on each side of the river now began to assume a differentcharacter. The hills, and cliffs, and forests disappeared; vast sandyplains, scantily clothed here and there with short tufts of grass, parched by the summer sun, stretched far away to the north and south. The river was occasionally obstructed with rocks and rapids, but oftenthere were smooth, placid intervals, where the current was gentle, andthe boatmen were enabled to lighten their labors with the assistance ofthe sail. 

The natives in this part of the river resided entirely on the northernside. They were hunters, as well as fishermen, and had horses in plenty. Some of these were purchased by the party, as provisions, and killed onthe spot, though they occasionally found a difficulty in procuringfuel wherewith to cook them. One of the greatest dangers that besetthe travellers in this part of their expedition, was the vast number ofrattlesnakes which infested the rocks about the rapids and portages, andon which the men were in danger of treading. They were often found, too, in quantities about the encampments. In one place, a nest of them laycoiled together, basking in the sun. Several guns loaded with shot weredischarged at them, and thirty-seven killed and wounded. To preventany unwelcome visits from them in the night, tobacco was occasionallystrewed around the tents, a weed for which they have a very properabhorrence. 

On the 28th of July the travellers arrived at the mouth of theWallah-Wallah, a bright, clear stream, about six feet deep, andfifty-five yards wide, which flows rapidly over a bed of sand andgravel, and throws itself into the Columbia, a few miles below LewisRiver. Here the combined parties that had thus far voyaged together wereto separate, each for its particular destination. 

On the banks of the Wallah-Wallah lived the hospitable tribe of thesame name who had succored Mr. Crooks and John Day in the time of theirextremity. No sooner did they hear of the arrival of the party, thanthey hastened to greet them. They built a great bonfire on the bank ofthe river, before the camp, and men and women danced round it to thecadence of their songs, in which they sang the praises of the white men, and welcomed them to their country. 

On the following day a traffic was commenced, to procure horses for suchof the party as intended to proceed by land. The Wallah-Wallahs arean equestrian tribe. The equipments of their horses were rude andinconvenient. High saddles, roughly made of deer skin, stuffed withhair, which chafe the horse's back and leave it raw; wooden stirrups, with a thong of raw hide wrapped round them; and for bridles they havecords of twisted horse-hair, which they tie round the under jaw. Theyare, like most Indians, bold but hard riders, and when on horsebackgallop about the most dangerous places, without fear for themselves, orpity for their steeds. 

From these people Mr. Stuart purchased twenty horses for his party; somefor the saddle, and others to transport the baggage. He was fortunatein procuring a noble animal for his own use, which was praised by theIndians for its great speed and bottom, and a high price set upon it. No people understand better the value of a horse than these equestriantribes; and nowhere is speed a greater requisite, as they frequentlyengage in the chase of the antelope, one of the fleetest of animals. Even after the Indian who sold this boasted horse to Mr. Stuart hadconcluded his bargain, he lingered about the animal, seeming loth topart from him, and to be sorry for what he had done. 

A day or two were employed by Mr. Stuart in arranging packages andpack-saddles, and making other preparations for his long and arduousjourney. His party, by the loss of John Day, was now reduced to six, asmall number for such an expedition. They were young men, however, full of courage, health, and good spirits, and stimulated rather thanappalled by danger. 

On the morning of the 31st of July, all preparations being concluded, Mr. Stuart and his little band mounted their steeds and took a farewellof their fellow-travellers, who gave them three hearty cheers as theyset out on their dangerous journey. The course they took was to thesoutheast, towards the fated region of the Snake River. At an immensedistance rose a chain of craggy mountains, which they would have totraverse; they were the same among which the travellers had experiencedsuch sufferings from cold during the preceding winter, and from theirazure tints, when seen at a distance, had received the name of the BlueMountains. 

CHAPTER XLIV. 

 Route of Mr. Stuart--Dreary Wilds. --Thirsty Travelling. -A Grove and Streamlet. --The Blue Mountains. --A Fertile Plain With Rivulets. --Sulphur Spring--Route Along Snake River-- Rumors of White Men. --The Snake and His Horse. --A Snake Guide. -A Midnight Decampment. --Unexpected Meeting With Old Comrades--Story of Trappers' Hardships--Salmon Falls--A Great Fishery. --Mode of Spearing Salmon. --Arrival at the Caldron Linn. --State of the Caches. --New Resolution of the Three Kentucky Trappers. 

IN retracing the route which had proved so disastrous to Mr. Hunt'sparty during the preceding winter, Mr. Stuart had trusted, in thepresent more favorable season, to find easy travelling and abundantsupplies. On these great wastes and wilds, however, each season has itspeculiar hardships. The travellers had not proceeded far, before theyfound themselves among naked and arid hills, with a soil composed ofsand and clay, baked and brittle, that to all appearance had never beenvisited by the dews of heaven. 

Not a spring, or pool, or running stream was to be seen; the sunburntcountry was seamed and cut up by dry ravines, the beds of wintertorrents, serving only to balk the hopes of man and beast with the sightof dusty channels, where water had once poured along in floods. 

For a long summer day they continued onward without halting, a burningsky above their heads, a parched desert beneath their feet, with justwind enough to raise the light sand from the knolls, and envelop them instifling clouds. The sufferings from thirst became intense; a fine youngdog, their only companion of the kind, gave out, and expired. Eveningdrew on without any prospect of relief, and they were almost reducedto despair, when they descried something that looked like a fringe offorest along the horizon. All were inspired with new hope, for they knewthat on these arid wastes, in the neighborhood of trees, there is alwayswater. 

They now quickened their pace; the horses seemed to understand theirmotives, and to partake of their anticipations; for, though beforealmost ready to give out, they now required neither whip nor spur. Withall their exertions, it was late in the night before they drew near tothe trees. As they approached, they heard, with transport, the ripplingof a shallow stream. No sooner did the refreshing sound reach the earsof the horse, than the poor animals snuffed the air, rushed forward withungovernable eagerness, and plunging their muzzles into the water, drankuntil they seemed in danger of bursting. Their riders had but littlemore discretion, and required repeated draughts to quench theirexcessive thirst. Their weary march that day had been forty-five miles, over a tract that might rival the deserts of Africa for aridity. Indeed, the sufferings of the traveller on these American deserts is frequentlymore severe than in the wastes of Africa or Asia, from being lesshabituated and prepared to cope with them. 

On the banks of this blessed stream the travellers encamped for thenight; and so great had been their fatigue, and so sound and sweet wastheir sleep, that it was a late hour the next morning before they awoke. They now recognized the little river to be the Umatilla, the same onthe banks of which Mr. Hunt and his followers had arrived after theirpainful struggle through the Blue Mountains, and experienced such a kindrelief in the friendly camp of the Sciatogas. 

That range of Blue Mountains now extended in the distance before them;they were the same among which poor Michael Carriere had perished. Theyform the southeast boundary of the great plains along the Columbia, dividing the waters of its main stream from those of Lewis River. Theyare, in fact, a part of a long chain, which stretches over a greatextent of country, and includes in its links the Snake River Mountains. 

The day was somewhat advanced before the travellers left the shadybanks of the Umatilla. Their route gradually took them among the BlueMountains, which assumed the most rugged aspect on a near approach. They were shagged with dense and gloomy forests, and cut up by deep andprecipitous ravines, extremely toilsome to the horses. Sometimes thetravellers had to follow the course of some brawling stream, with abroken, rocky bed, which the shouldering cliffs and promontories oneither side obliged them frequently to cross and recross. For some milesthey struggled forward through these savage and darkly wooded defiles, when all at once the whole landscape changed, as if by magic. Therude mountains and rugged ravines softened into beautiful hills, andintervening meadows, with rivulets winding through fresh herbage, andsparkling and murmuring over gravelly beds, the whole forming a verdantand pastoral scene, which derived additional charms from being locked upin the bosom of such a hard-hearted region. 

Emerging from the chain of Blue Mountains, they descended upon a vastplain, almost a dead level, sixty miles in circumference, Of excellentsoil, with fine streams meandering through it in every direction, their courses marked out in the wide landscape by serpentine lines ofcotton-wood trees, and willows, which fringed their banks, and affordedsustenance to great numbers of beavers and otters. 

In traversing this plain, they passed, close to the skirts of the hills, a great pool of water, three hundred yards in circumference, fed by asulphur spring, about ten feet in diameter, boiling up in one corner. The vapor from this pool was extremely noisome, and tainted the air fora considerable distance. The place was much frequented by elk, whichwere found in considerable numbers in the adjacent mountains, and theirhorns, shed in the spring-time, were strewed in every direction aroundthe pond. 

On the 10th of August, they reached the main body of Woodvile Creek, thesame stream which Mr. Hunt had ascended in the preceding year, shortlyafter his separation from Mr. Crooks. 

On the banks of this stream they saw a herd of nineteen antelopes; asight so unusual in that part of the country, that at first they doubtedthe evidence of their senses. They tried by every means to get withinshot of them, but they were too shy and fleet, and after alternatelybounding to a distance, and then stopping to gaze with capriciouscuriosity at the hunter, they at length scampered out of sight. 

On the 12th of August, the travellers arrived on the banks of SnakeRiver, the scene of so many trials and mishaps to all of the presentparty excepting Mr. Stuart. They struck the river just above the placewhere it entered the mountains, through which Messrs. Stuart and Crookshad vainly endeavored to find a passage. The river was here a rapidstream, four hundred yards in width, with high sandy banks, and here andthere a scanty growth of willow. Up the southern side of the river theynow bent their course, intending to visit the caches made by Mr. Hunt atthe Caldron Linn. 

On the second evening, a solitary Snake Indian visited their camp, at alate hour, and informed them that there was a white man residing at oneof the cantonments of his tribe, about a day's journey higher up theriver. It was immediately concluded that he must be one of the poorfellows of Mr. Hunt's party, who had given out, exhausted by hunger andfatigue, in the wretched journey of the preceding winter. All presentwho had borne a part in the sufferings of that journey, were eager nowto press forward, and bring relief to a lost comrade. Early the nextmorning, therefore, they pushed forward with unusual alacrity. For twodays, however, did they travel without being able to find any trace ofsuch a straggler. 

On the evening of the second day, they arrived at a place where a largeriver came in from the east, which was renowned among all the wanderinghordes of the Snake nation for its salmon fishery, that fish being takenin incredible quantities in this neighborhood. Here, therefore, duringthe fishing season, the Snake Indians resort from far and near, tolay in their stock of salmon, which, with esculent roots, forms theprincipal food of the inhabitants of these barren regions. 

On the bank of a small stream emptying into Snake River at this place, Mr. Stuart found an encampment of Shoshonies. He made the usual inquiryof them concerning the white man of whom he had received intelligence. No such person was dwelling among them, but they said there were whitemen residing with some of their nation on the opposite side of theriver. This was still more animating information. Mr. Crooks now hopedthat these might be the men of his party, who, disheartened by perilsand hardships, had preferred to remain among the Indians. Others thoughtthey might be Mr. Miller and the hunters who had left the main body atHenry's Fort, to trap among the mountain streams. Mr. Stuart halted, therefore, in the neighborhood of the Shoshonie lodges, and sent anIndian across the river to seek out the white men in question, and bringthem to his camp. 

The travellers passed a restless, miserable night. The place swarmedwith myriads of mosquitoes, which, with their stings and their music, set all sleep at defiance. The morning dawn found them in a feverish, irritable mood, and their spleen was completely aroused by the returnof the Indian without any intelligence of the white men. They nowconsidered themselves the dupes of Indian falsehoods, and resolvedto put no more confidence in Snakes. They soon, however, forgot thisresolution. In the course of the morning, an Indian came galloping afterthem; Mr. Stuart waited to receive him; no sooner had he come up, than, dismounting and throwing his arms around the neck of Mr. Stuart's horse, he began to kiss and caress the animal, who, on his part, seemed byno means surprised or displeased with his salutation. Mr. Stuart, whovalued his horse highly, was somewhat annoyed by these transports; thecause of them was soon explained. The Snake said the horse had belongedto him, and been the best in his possession, and that it had been stolenby the Wallah-Wallahs. Mr. Stuart was by no means pleased with thisrecognition of his steed, nor disposed to admit any claim on the part ofits ancient owner. In fact, it was a noble animal, admirably shaped, of free and generous spirit, graceful in movement, and fleet as anantelope. It was his intention, if possible, to take the horse to NewYork, and present him to Mr. Astor. 

In the meantime, some of the party came up, and immediately recognizedin the Snake an old friend and ally. He was, in fact, one of the twoguides who had conducted Mr. Hunt's party, in the preceding autumn, across Mad River Mountain to Fort Henry, and who subsequently departedwith Mr. Miller and his fellow trappers, to conduct them to a goodtrapping ground. The reader may recollect that these two trusty Snakeswere engaged by Mr. Hunt to return and take charge of the horses whichthe party intended to leave at Fort Henry, when they should embark incanoes. 

The party now crowded round the Snake, and began to question himwith eagerness. His replies were somewhat vague, and but partiallyunderstood. He told a long story about the horses, from which itappeared that they had been stolen by various wandering bands, andscattered in different directions. The cache, too, had been plundered, and the saddles and other equipments carried off. His informationconcerning Mr. Miller and his comrades was not more satisfactory. Theyhad trapped for some time about the upper streams, but had fallen intothe hands of a marauding party of Crows, who had robbed them of horses, weapons, and everything. 

Further questioning brought forth further intelligence, but all of adisastrous kind. About ten days previously, he had met with three otherwhite men, in very miserable plight, having one horse each, and but onerifle among them. They also had been plundered and maltreated by theCrows, those universal freebooters. The Snake endeavored to pronouncethe names of these three men, and as far as his imperfect sounds couldbe understood, they were supposed to be three of the party of fourhunters, namely, Carson, St. Michael, Detaye, and Delaunay, who weredetached from Mr. Hunt's party on the 28th of September, to trap beaveron the head waters of the Columbia. 

In the course of conversation, the Indian informed them that the routeby which Mr. Hunt had crossed the Rocky Mountains was very bad andcircuitous, and that he knew one much shorter and easier. Mr. Stuarturged him to accompany them as guide, promising to reward him witha pistol with powder and ball, a knife, an awl, some blue beads, a blanket, and a looking-glass. Such a catalogue of riches was tootempting to be resisted; besides the poor Snake languished after theprairies; he was tired, he said, of salmon, and longed for buffalo meat, and to have a grand buffalo hunt beyond the mountains. He departed, therefore, with all speed, to get his arms and equipments for thejourney, promising to rejoin the party the next day. He kept his word, and, as he no longer said anything to Mr. Stuart on the subject of thepet horse, they journeyed very harmoniously together; though now andthen, the Snake would regard his quondam steed with a wistful eye. 

They had not travelled many miles, when they came to a great bend in theriver. Here the Snake informed them that, by cutting across the hillsthey would save many miles of distance. The route across, however, wouldbe a good day's journey. He advised them, therefore, to encamp herefor the night, and set off early in the morning. They took his advice, though they had come but nine miles that day. 

On the following morning they rose, bright and early, to ascend thehills. On mustering their little party, the guide was missing. Theysupposed him to be somewhere in the neighborhood, and proceeded tocollect the horses. The vaunted steed of Mr. Stuart was not to be found. A suspicion flashed upon his mind. Search for the horse of the Snake! Helikewise was gone--the tracks of two horses, one after the other, werefound, making off from the camp. They appeared as if one horse had beenmounted, and the other led. They were traced for a few miles above thecamp, until they both crossed the river. It was plain the Snake hadtaken an Indian mode of recovering his horse, having quietly decampedwith him in the night. 

New vows were made never more to trust in Snakes, or any other Indians. It was determined, also, to maintain, hereafter, the strictest vigilanceover their horses, dividing the night into three watches, and one personmounting guard at a time. They resolved, also, to keep along the river, instead of taking the short cut recommended by the fugitive Snake, whomthey now set down for a thorough deceiver. The heat of the weather wasoppressive, and their horses were, at times, rendered almost frantic bythe stings of the prairie flies. The nights were suffocating, and it wasalmost impossible to sleep, from the swarms of mosquitoes. 

On the 20th of August they resumed their march, keeping along theprairie parallel to Snake River. The day was sultry, and some of theparty, being parched with thirst, left the line of march, and scrambleddown the bank of the river to drink. The bank was overhung with willows, beneath which, to their surprise, they beheld a man fishing. No soonerdid he see them, than he uttered an exclamation of joy. It proved tobe John Hoback, one of their lost comrades. They had scarcely exchangedgreetings, when three other men came out from among the willows. Theywere Joseph Miller, Jacob Rezner, and Robinson, the scalped Kentuckian, the veteran of the Bloody Ground. 

The reader will perhaps recollect the abrupt and willful manner inwhich Mr. Miller threw up his interest as a partner of the company, anddeparted from Fort Henry, in company with these three trappers, and afourth, named Cass. He may likewise recognize in Robinson, Rezner, andHoback, the trio of Kentucky hunters who had originally been inthe service of Mr. Henry, and whom Mr. Hunt found floating down theMissouri, on their way homeward; and prevailed upon, once more, to crossthe mountains. The haggard looks and naked condition of these men provedhow much they had suffered. After leaving Mr. Hunt's party, they hadmade their way about two hundred miles to the southward, where theytrapped beaver on a river which, according to their account, dischargeditself into the ocean to the south of the Columbia, but which weapprehend to be Bear River, a stream emptying itself into LakeBonneville, an immense body of salt water, west of the Rocky Mountains. 

Having collected a considerable quantity of beaver skins, they made theminto packs, loaded their horses, and steered two hundred miles dueeast. Here they came upon an encampment of sixty lodges of Arapahays, anoutlawed band of the Arrapahoes, and notorious robbers. These fellupon the poor trappers; robbed them of their peltries, most of theirclothing, and several of their horses. They were glad to escape withtheir lives, and without being entirely stripped, and after proceedingabout fifty miles further, made their halt for the winter. 

Early in the spring they resumed their wayfaring, but were unluckilyovertaken by the same ruffian horde, who levied still furthercontributions, and carried off the remainder of their horses, exceptingtwo. With these they continued on, suffering the greatest hardships. They still retained rifles and ammunition, but were in a desert country, where neither bird nor beast was to be found. Their only chance was tokeep along the rivers, and subsist by fishing; but at times no fishwere to be taken, and then their sufferings were horrible. One of theirhorses was stolen among the mountains by the Snake Indians; the other, they said, was carried off by Cass, who, according to their account, "villainously left them in their extremities. " Certain dark doubts andsurmises were afterwards circulated concerning the fate of that poorfellow, which, if true, showed to what a desperate state of famine hiscomrades had been reduced. 

Being now completely unhorsed, Mr. Miller and his three companionswandered on foot for several hundred miles, enduring hunger, thirst, and fatigue, while traversing the barren wastes which abound beyond theRocky Mountains. At the time they were discovered by Mr. Stuart's party, they were almost famished, and were fishing for a precarious meal. HadMr. Stuart made the short cut across the hills, avoiding this bend ofthe river, or had not some of his party accidentally gone down to themargin of the stream to drink, these poor wanderers might have remainedundiscovered, and have perished in the wilderness. Nothing could exceedtheir joy on thus meeting with their old comrades, or the heartinesswith which they were welcomed. All hands immediately encamped; and theslender stores of the party were ransacked to furnish out a suitableregale. 

The next morning they all set out together; Mr. Miller and his comradesbeing resolved to give up the life of a trapper, and accompany Mr. Stuart back to St. Louis. 

For several days they kept along the course of Snake River, occasionallymaking short cuts across hills and promontories, where there were bendsin the stream. In their way they passed several camps of Shoshonies, from some of whom they procured salmon, but in general they were toowretchedly poor to furnish anything. It was the wish of Mr. Stuart topurchase horses for the recent recruits of his party; but the Indianscould not be prevailed upon to part with any, alleging that they had notenough for their own use. 

On the 25th of August they reached a great fishing place, to which theygave the name of the Salmon Falls. Here there is a perpendicular fallof twenty feet on the north side of the river, while on the south sidethere is a succession of rapids. The salmon are taken here in incrediblequantities, as they attempt to shoot the falls. It was now a favorableseason, and there were about one hundred lodges of Shoshonies busilyengaged killing and drying fish. The salmon begin to leap shortly aftersunrise. At this time the Indians swim to the centre of the falls, wheresome station themselves on rocks, and others stand to their waists inthe water, all armed with spears, with which they assail the salmonas they attempt to leap, or fall back exhausted. It is an incessantslaughter, so great is the throng of the fish. 

The construction of the spears thus used is peculiar. The head is astraight piece of elk horn, about seven inches long, on the point ofwhich an artificial barb is made fast, with twine well gummed. The headis stuck on the end of the shaft, a very long pole of willow, to whichit is likewise connected by a strong cord, a few inches in length. Whenthe spearsman makes a sure blow, he often strikes the head of the spearthrough the body of the fish. It comes off easily, and leaves the salmonstruggling with the string through its body, while the pole is stillheld by the spearsman. Were it not for the precaution of the string, the willow shaft would be snapped by the struggles and the weight ofthe fish. Mr. Miller, in the course of his wanderings, had been at thesefalls, and had seen several thousand salmon taken in the course of oneafternoon. He declared that he had seen a salmon leap a distance ofabout thirty feet, from the commencement of the foam at the foot of thefalls, completely to the top. 

Having purchased a good supply of salmon from the fishermen, the partyresumed their journey, and on the twenty-ninth, arrived at the CaldronLinn, the eventful scene of the preceding autumn. Here, the first thingthat met their eyes was a memento of the perplexities of that period;the wreck of a canoe lodged between two ledges of rocks. They endeavoredto get down to it, but the river banks were too high and precipitous. 

They now proceeded to that part of the neighborhood where Mr. Hunt andhis party had made the caches, intending to take from them such articlesas belonged to Mr. Crooks, M'Lellan, and the Canadians. On reachingthe spot, they found, to their astonishment, six of the caches openand rifled of their contents, excepting a few books which lay scatteredabout the vicinity. They had the appearance of having been plunderedin the course of the summer. There were tracks of wolves in everydirection, to and from the holes, from which Mr. Stuart concluded thatthese animals had first been attracted to the place by the smell of theskins contained in the caches, which they had probably torn up, and thattheir tracks had betrayed the secret to the Indians. 

The three remaining caches had not been molested; they contained a fewdry goods, some ammunition, and a number of beaver traps. From theseMr. Stuart took whatever was requisite for his party; he then depositedwithin them all his superfluous baggage, and all the books and papersscattered around; the holes were then carefully closed up, and alltraces of them effaced. And here we have to record another instance ofthe indomitable spirit of the western trappers. No sooner did the trioof Kentucky hunters, Robinson, Rezner, and Hoback, find that they couldonce more be fitted out for a campaign of beaver-trapping, than theyforgot all that they had suffered, and determined upon another trialof their fortunes; preferring to take their chance in the wilderness, rather than return home ragged and penniless. As to Mr. Miller, hedeclared his curiosity and his desire of travelling through the Indiancountries fully satisfied; he adhered to his determination, therefore, to keep on with the party to St. Louis, and to return to the bosom ofcivilized society. 

The three hunters, therefore, Robinson, Rezner, and Hoback, werefurnished, as far as the caches and the means of Mr. Stuart's partyafforded, with the requisite munitions and equipments for a "two years'hunt;" but as their fitting out was yet incomplete, they resolved towait in this neighborhood until Mr. Reed should arrive; whose arrivalmight soon be expected, as he was to set out for the caches about twentydays after Mr. Stuart parted with him at the Wallah-Wallah River. 

Mr. Stuart gave in charge to Robinson a letter to Mr. Reed, reportinghis safe journey thus far, and the state in which he had found thecaches. A duplicate of this letter he elevated on a pole, and set it upnear the place of deposit. 

All things being thus arranged, Mr. Stuart and his little band, nowseven in number, took leave of the three hardy trappers, wishingthem all possible success in their lonely and perilous sojourn in thewilderness; and we, in like manner, shall leave them to their fortunes, promising to take them up again at some future page, and to close thestory of their persevering and ill-fated enterprise. 

CHAPTER XLV. 

 The Snake River Deserts. --Scanty Fare. --Bewildered Travellers--Prowling Indians--A Giant Crow Chief. --A Bully Rebuked--Indian Signals. --Smoke on the Mountains. --Mad River. --An Alarm. --An Indian Foray--A Scamper. --A Rude Indian joke. --A Sharp-Shooter Balked of His Shot. 

ON the 1st of September, Mr. Stuart and his companions resumed theirjourney, bending their course eastward, along the course of Snake River. As they advanced the country opened. The hills which had hemmed in theriver receded on either hand, and great sandy and dusty plains extendedbefore them. Occasionally there were intervals of pasturage, and thebanks of the river were fringed with willows and cottonwood, so that itscourse might be traced from the hilltops, winding under an umbrageouscovert, through a wide sunburnt landscape. The soil, however, wasgenerally poor; there was in some places a miserable growth of wormwood, and a plant called saltweed, resembling pennyroyal; but the summer hadparched the plains, and left but little pasturage. The game, too, haddisappeared. The hunter looked in vain over the lifeless landscape;now and then a few antelope might be seen, but not within reach of therifle. We forbear to follow the travellers in a week's wandering overthese barren wastes, where they suffered much from hunger, having todepend upon a few fish from the streams, and now and then a little driedsalmon, or a dog, procured from some forlorn lodge of Shoshonies. 

Tired of these cheerless wastes, they left the banks of Snake River onthe 7th of September, under guidance of Mr. Miller, who having acquiredsome knowledge of the country during his trapping campaign, undertookto conduct them across the mountains by a better route than that byFort Henry, and one more out of the range of the Blackfeet. He proved, however, but an indifferent guide, and they soon became bewildered amongrugged hills and unknown streams, and burnt and barren prairies. 

At length they came to a river on which Mr. Miller had trapped, and towhich they gave his name; though, as before observed, we presume itto be the same called Bear River, which empties itself into LakeBonneville. Up this river and its branches they kept for two or threedays, supporting themselves precariously upon fish. They soon found thatthey were in a dangerous neighborhood. On the 12th of September, havingencamped early, they sallied forth with their rods to angle for theirsupper. On returning, they beheld a number of Indians prowling abouttheir camp, whom, to their infinite disquiet, they soon perceived to beUpsarokas, or Crows. Their chief came forward with a confident air. Hewas a dark herculean fellow, full six feet four inches in height, witha mingled air of the ruffian and the rogue. He conducted himselfpeaceably, however, and despatched some of his people to their camp, which was somewhere in the neighborhood, from whence they returned witha most acceptable supply of buffalo meat. He now signified to Mr. Stuartthat he was going to trade with the Snakes who reside on the west baseof the mountains, below Henry's Fort. Here they cultivate a delicatekind of tobacco, much esteemed and sought after by the mountain tribes. There was something sinister, however, in the look of this Indian, that inspired distrust. By degrees, the number of his people increased, until, by midnight, there were twenty-one of them about the camp, whobegan to be impudent and troublesome. The greatest uneasiness wasnow felt for the safety of the horses and effects, and every one keptvigilant watch throughout the night. 

The morning dawned, however, without any unpleasant occurrence, andMr. Stuart, having purchased all the buffalo meat that the Crows hadto spare, prepared to depart. His Indian acquaintances, however, weredisposed for further dealings; and above all, anxious for a supplyof gunpowder, for which they offered horses in exchange. Mr. Stuartdeclined to furnish them with the dangerous commodity. They became moreimportunate in their solicitations, until they met with a flat refusal. 

The gigantic chief now stepped forward, assumed a swelling air, and, slapping himself upon the breast, gave Mr. Crooks to understand that hewas a chief of great power and importance. He signified, further, thatit was customary for great chiefs when they met, to make each otherpresents. He requested, therefore, that Mr. Stuart would alight, andgive him the horse upon which he was mounted. This was a noble animal, of one of the wild races of the prairies; on which Mr. Stuart setgreat value; he, of course, shook his head at the request of the Crowdignitary. Upon this the latter strode up to him, and taking hold ofhim, moved him backwards and forwards in his saddle, as if to make himfeel that he was a mere child within his grasp. Mr. Stuart preserved hiscalmness, and still shook his head. The chief then seized the bridle, and gave it a jerk that startled the horse, and nearly brought the riderto the ground. Mr. Stuart instantly drew forth a pistol, and presentedit at the head of the bully-ruffian. In a twinkling his swaggering wasat an end, and he dodged behind his horse to escape the expected shot. As his subject Crows gazed on the affray from a little distance, Mr. Stuart ordered his men to level their rifles at them, but not to fire. The whole crew scampered among the bushes, and throwing themselves uponthe ground, vanished from sight. 

The chieftain thus left alone was confounded for an instant; but, recovering himself with true Indian shrewdness, burst into a loud laugh, and affected to turn off the whole matter as a piece of pleasantry. Mr. Stuart by no means relished such equivocal joking, but it was not hispolicy to get into a quarrel; so he joined with the best grace he couldassume in the merriment of the jocular giant; and, to console the latterfor the refusal of the horse, made him a present of twenty charges ofpowder. They parted, according to all outward professions, the bestfriends in the world; it was evident, however, that nothing but thesmallness of his own force, and the martial array and alertness of thewhite men, had prevented the Crow chief from proceeding to open outrage. As it was, his worthy followers, in the course of their brief interview, had contrived to purloin a bag containing almost all the culinaryutensils of the party. 

The travellers kept on their way due east, over a chain of hills. Therecent rencontre showed them that they were now in a land of danger, subject to the wide roamings of a predacious tribe; nor, in fact, hadthey gone many miles before they beheld sights calculated to inspireanxiety and alarm. From the summits of some of the loftiest mountains, in different directions, columns of smoke be-an to rise. These theyconcluded to be signals made by the runners of the Crow chieftain, tosummon the stragglers of his band, so as to pursue them with greaterforce. Signals of this kind, made by outrunners from one central point, will rouse a wide circuit of the mountains in a wonderfully short spaceof time; and bring the straggling hunters and warriors to the standardof their chieftain. 

To keep as much as possible out of the way of these freebooters, Mr. Stuart altered his course to the north, and, quitting the main stream ofMiller's River, kept up a large branch that came in from the mountains. Here they encamped, after a fatiguing march of twenty-five miles. As thenight drew on, the horses were hobbled or fettered, and tethered closeto the camp; a vigilant watch was maintained until morning, and everyone slept with his rifle on his arm. 

At sunrise, they were again on the march, still keeping to the north. They soon began to ascend the mountains, and occasionally had wideprospects over the surrounding country. Not a sign of a Crow was to beseen; but this did not assure them of their security, well knowing theperseverance of these savages in dogging any party they intend to rob, and the stealthy way in which they can conceal their movements, keepingalong ravines and defiles. After a mountain scramble of twenty-onemiles, they encamped on the margin of a stream running to the north. 

In the evening there was an alarm of Indians, and everyone was instantlyon the alert. They proved to be three miserable Snakes, who were nosooner informed that a band of Crows was prowling in the neighborhoodthan they made off with great signs of consternation. 

A couple more of weary days and watchful nights brought them to a strongand rapid stream, running due north, which they concluded to be one ofthe upper branches of Snake River. It was probably the same since calledSalt River. 

They determined to bend their course down this river, as it would takethem still further out of the dangerous neighborhood of the Crows. Theythen would strike upon Mr. Hunt's track of the preceding autumn, andretrace it across the mountains. The attempt to find a better routeunder guidance of Mr. Miller had cost them a large bend to the south;in resuming Mr. Hunt's track, they would at least be sure of their road. They accordingly turned down along the course of this stream, and atthe end of three days' journey came to where it was joined by a largerriver, and assumed a more impetuous character, raging and roaring amongrocks and precipices. It proved, in fact, to be Mad River, already notedin the expedition of Mr. Hunt. On the banks of this river, they encampedon the 18th of September, at an early hour. 

Six days had now elapsed since their interview with the Crows; duringthat time they had come nearly a hundred and fifty miles to the northand west, without seeing any signs of those marauders. They consideredthemselves, therefore, beyond the reach of molestation, and began torelax in their vigilance, lingering occasionally for part of a day, where there was good pasturage. The poor horses needed repose. 

They had been urged on, by forced marches, over rugged heights, amongrocks and fallen timber, or over low swampy valleys, inundated by thelabors of the beaver. These industrious animals abounded in all themountain streams and watercourses, wherever there were willows fortheir subsistence. Many of them they had so completely dammed up as toinundate the low grounds, making shallow pools or lakes, and extensivequagmires; by which the route of the travellers was often impeded. 

On the 19th of September, they rose at early dawn; some began to preparebreakfast, and others to arrange the packs preparatory to a march. Thehorses had been hobbled, but left at large to graze upon the adjacentpasture. Mr. Stuart was on the bank of a river, at a short distance fromthe camp, when he heard the alarm cry--"Indians! Indians!--to arms! toarms!"

A mounted Crow galloped past the camp, bearing a red flag. He reinedhis steed on the summit of a neighboring knoll, and waved his flaringbanner. A diabolical yell now broke forth on the opposite side of thecamp, beyond where the horses were grazing, and a small troop of savagescame galloping up, whooping and making a terrific clamor. The horsestook fright, and dashed across the camp in the direction of thestandard-bearer, attracted by his waving flag. He instantly put spursto his steed, and scoured off followed by the panic-stricken herd, theirfright being increased by the yells of the savages in their rear. 

At the first alarm, Mr. Stuart and his comrades had seized their rifles, and attempted to cut off the Indians who were pursuing the horses. Theirattention was instantly distracted by whoops and yells in an oppositedirection. 

They now apprehended that a reserve party was about to carry off theirbaggage. They ran to secure it. The reserve party, however, galloped by, whooping and yelling in triumph and derision. The last of them proved tobe their commander, the identical giant joker already mentioned. He wasnot cast in the stern poetical mold of fashionable Indian heroism, buton the contrary, was grievously given to vulgar jocularity. As he passedMr. Stuart and his companions, he checked his horse, raised himselfin his saddle, and clapping his hand on the most insulting part of hisbody, uttered some jeering words, which, fortunately for their delicacy, they could not understand. The rifle of Ben Jones was leveled in aninstant, and he was on the point of whizzing a bullet into the target sotauntingly displayed. "Not for your life! not for your life!" exclaimedMr. Stuart, "you will bring destruction on us all!"

It was hard to restrain honest Ben, when the mark was so fair and theinsult so foul. "O, Mr. Stuart, " exclaimed he, "only let me have onecrack at the infernal rascal, and you may keep all the pay that is dueto me. "

"By heaven, if you fire, " cried Mr. Stuart, "I'll blow your brains out. "

By this time the Indian was far out of reach, and had rejoined his men, and the whole dare-devil band, with the captured horses, scuttled offalong the defiles, their red flag flaunting overhead, and the rocksechoing to their whoops and yells, and demoniac laughter. 

The unhorsed travellers gazed after them in silent mortification anddespair; yet Mr. Stuart could not but admire the style and spirit withwhich the whole exploit had been managed, and pronounced it one of themost daring and intrepid actions he had ever heard of among Indians. The whole number of the Crows did not exceed twenty. In this way a smallgang of lurkers will hurry off the cavalry of a large war party, forwhen once a drove of horses are seized with panic, they become frantic, and nothing short of broken necks can stop them. 

No one was more annoyed by this unfortunate occurrence than Ben Jones. He declared he would actually have given his whole arrears of pay, amounting to upwards of a year's wages, rather than be balked of such acapital shot. Mr. Stuart, however, represented what might have been theconsequence of so rash an act. Life for life is the Indian maxim. Thewhole tribe would have made common cause in avenging the death of awarrior. The party were but seven dismounted men, with a wide mountainregion to traverse, infested by these people, and which might all beroused by signal fires. In fact, the conduct of the band of marauders inquestion, showed the perseverance of savages when once they have fixedtheir minds upon a project. These fellows had evidently been silent andsecretly dogging the party for a week past, and a distance of ahundred and fifty miles, keeping out of sight by day, lurking about theencampment at night, watching all their movements, and waiting for afavorable moment when they should be off their guard. The menace ofMr. Stuart, in their first interview, to shoot the giant chief withhis pistol, and the fright caused among the warriors by presentingthe rifles, had probably added the stimulus of pique to their usualhorse-stealing propensities. And in this mood of mind they woulddoubtless have followed the party throughout their whole course over theRocky Mountains, rather than be disappointed in their scheme. 

CHAPTER XLVI. 

 Travellers Unhorsed--Pedestrian Preparations--Prying Spies. --Bonfires of Baggage--A March on Foot. --Rafting a River--The Wounded Elk. --Indian Trails. --Willful Conduct of Mr. M'Lellan. --Grand Prospect From a Mountain. --Distant Craters of Volcanoes--Illness of Mr. Crooks. 

FEW reverses in this changeful world are more complete and dishearteningthan that of a traveller, suddenly unhorsed, in the midst of thewilderness. Our unfortunate travellers contemplated their situation, for a time, in perfect dismay. A long journey over rugged mountains andimmeasurable plains lay before them, which they must painfully performon foot, and everything necessary for subsistence or defense must becarried on their shoulders. Their dismay, however, was but transient, and they immediately set to work, with that prompt expediency producedby the exigencies of the wilderness, to fit themselves for the change intheir condition. 

Their first attention was to select from their baggage such articlesas were indispensable to their journey; to make them up into convenientpacks, and to deposit the residue in caches. The whole day was consumedin these occupations; at night, they made a scanty meal of theirremaining provisions, and lay down to sleep with heavy hearts. In themorning, they were up and about at an early hour, and began to preparetheir knapsacks for a march, while Ben Jones repaired to an old beavertrap which he had set in the river bank at some little distance from thecamp. He was rejoiced to find a middle-sized beaver there, sufficientfor a morning's meal to his hungry comrades. On his way back with hisprize, he observed two heads peering over the edge of an impendingcliff, several hundred feet high, which he supposed to be a couple ofwolves. As he continued on, he now and then cast his eye up; heads werestill there, looking down with fixed and watchful gaze. A suspicion nowflashed across his mind that they might be Indian scouts; and, had theynot been far above the reach of his rifle, he would undoubtedly haveregaled them with a shot. 

On arriving at the camp, he directed the attention of his comrades tothese aerial observers. The same idea was at first entertained, thatthey were wolves; but their immovable watchfulness soon satisfied everyone that they were Indians. It was concluded that they were watching themovements of the party, to discover their place of concealment ofsuch articles as they would be compelled to leave behind. There was nolikelihood that the caches would escape the search of such keen eyes andexperienced rummagers, and the idea was intolerable that any morebooty should fall into their hands. To disappoint them, therefore, thetravellers stripped the caches of the articles deposited there, andcollecting together everything that they could not carry away withthem, made a bonfire of all that would burn, and threw the rest into theriver. There was a forlorn satisfaction in thus balking the Crows, bythe destruction of their own property; and, having thus gratified theirpique, they shouldered their packs, about ten o'clock in the morning, and set out on their pedestrian wayfaring. 

The route they took was down along the banks of Mad River. This streammakes its way through the defiles of the mountains, into the plain belowFort Henry, where it terminates in Snake River. Mr. Stuart was in hopesof meeting with Snake encampments in the plain, where he might procure acouple of horses to transport the baggage. In such case, he intended toresume his eastern course across the mountains, and endeavor to reachthe Cheyenne River before winter. Should he fail, however, of obtaininghorses, he would probably be compelled to winter on the Pacific side ofthe mountains, somewhere on the head waters of the Spanish or ColoradoRiver. 

With all the care that had been observed in taking nothing with themthat was not absolutely necessary, the poor pedestrians were heavilyladen, and their burdens added to the fatigues of their rugged road. They suffered much, too, from hunger. The trout they caught were toopoor to yield much nourishment; their main dependence, therefore, was upon an old beaver trap, which they had providentially retained. Whenever they were fortunate enough to entrap a beaver, it was cut upimmediately and distributed, that each man might carry his share. 

After two days of toilsome travel, during which they made but eighteenmiles, they stopped on the 21st, to build two rafts on which to crossto the north side of the river. On these they embarked on the followingmorning, four on one raft, and three on the other, and pushed boldlyfrom shore. Finding the rafts sufficiently firm and steady to withstandthe rough and rapid water, they changed their minds, and instead ofcrossing, ventured to float down with the current. The river was, ingeneral, very rapid, and from one to two hundred yards in width, windingin every direction through mountains of hard black rock, covered withpines and cedars. The mountains to the east of the river were spurs ofthe Rocky range, and of great magnitude; those on the west were littlebetter than hills, bleak and barren, or scantily clothed with stuntedgrass. 

Mad River, though deserving its name from the impetuosity of itscurrent, was free from rapids and cascades, and flowed on in a singlechannel between gravel banks, often fringed with cotton-wood and dwarfwillows in abundance. These gave sustenance to immense quantities ofbeaver, so that the voyagers found no difficulty in procuring food. Ben Jones, also, killed a fallow deer and a wolverine, and as they wereenabled to carry the carcasses on their rafts, their larder was wellsupplied. Indeed, they might have occasionally shot beavers that wereswimming in the river as they floated by, but they humanely spared theirlives, being in no want of meat at the time. In this way, they kept downthe river for three days, drifting with the current and encamping onland at night, when they drew up their rafts on shore. Towards theevening of the third day, they came to a little island on which theydescried a gang of elk. Ben Jones landed, and was fortunate enough towound one, which immediately took to the water, but, being unable tostem the current, drifted above a mile, when it was overtaken and drawnto shore. As a storm was gathering, they now encamped on the margin ofthe river, where they remained all the next day, sheltering themselvesas well as they could from the rain and snow--a sharp foretaste of theimpending winter. During their encampment, they employed themselves injerking a part of the elk for future supply. In cutting up the carcass, they found that the animal had been wounded by hunters, about a weekpreviously, an arrow head and a musket ball remaining in the wounds. In the wilderness, every trivial circumstance is a matter of anxiousspeculation. The Snake Indians have no guns; the elk, therefore, couldnot have been wounded by one of them. They were on the borders ofthe country infested by the Blackfeet, who carry fire-arms. It wasconcluded, therefore, that the elk had been hunted by some ofthat wandering and hostile tribe, who, of course, must be in theneighborhood. The idea put an end to the transient solace they hadenjoyed in the comparative repose and abundance of the river. 

For three days longer they continued to navigate with their rafts. The recent storm had rendered the weather extremely cold. They hadnow floated down the river about ninety-one miles, when finding themountains on the right diminished to moderate sized hills, they landed, and prepared to resume their journey on foot. Accordingly, having spenta day in preparations, making moccasins, and parceling out their jerkedmeat in packs of twenty pounds to each man, they turned their backsupon the river on the 29th of September and struck off to the northeast, keeping along the southern skirt of the mountain on which Henry's Fortwas situated. 

Their march was slow and toilsome; part of the time through an alluvialbottom, thickly grown with cotton-wood, hawthorn, and willows, and partof the time over rough hills. Three antelopes came within shot, but theydared not fire at them, lest the report of their rifles should betraythem to the Blackfeet. In the course of the day, they came upon alarge horse-track, apparently about three weeks old, and in the eveningencamped on the banks of a small stream, on a spot which had been thecamping place of this same band. 

On the following morning they still observed the Indian track, but aftera time they came to where it separated in every direction, and was lost. This showed that the band had dispersed in various hunting parties, andwas, in all probability, still in the neighborhood; it was necessary, therefore, to proceed with the utmost caution. They kept a vigilant eyeas they marched, upon every height where a scout might be posted, andscanned the solitary landscapes and the distant ravines, to observeany column of smoke; but nothing of the kind was to be seen; all wasindescribably stern and lifeless. 

Towards evening they came to where there were several hot springs, strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur, and sending up a volume ofvapor that tainted the surrounding atmosphere, and might be seen at thedistance of a couple of miles. 

Near to these they encamped in a deep gully, which afforded someconcealment. To their great concern, Mr. Crooks, who had been indisposedfor the two preceding days, had a violent fever in the night. 

Shortly after daybreak they resumed their march. On emerging from theglen, a consultation was held as to their course. Should they continueround the skirt of the mountain, they would be in danger of falling inwith the scattered parties of Blackfeet, who were probably hunting inthe plain. It was thought most advisable, therefore, to strike directlyacross the mountain, since the route, though rugged and difficult, wouldbe most secure. This counsel was indignantly derided by M'Lellan aspusillanimous. Hot-headed and impatient at all times, he had beenrendered irascible by the fatigues of the journey, and the condition ofhis feet, which were chafed and sore. He could not endure the idea ofencountering the difficulties of the mountain, and swore he would ratherface all the Blackfeet in the country. He was overruled, however, andthe party began to ascend the mountain, striving, with the ardor andemulation of young men, who should be first up. M'Lellan, who was doublethe age of some of his companions, soon began to lose breath, and fallin the rear. In the distribution of burdens, it was his turn to carrythe old beaver trap. Piqued and irritated, he suddenly came to a halt, swore he would carry it no further, and jerked it half-way down thehill. He was offered in place of it a package of dried meat, but thishe scornfully threw upon the ground. They might carry it, he said, who needed it; for his part, he could provide his daily bread with hisrifle. He concluded by flinging off from the party, and keeping alongthe skirts of the mountain, leaving those, he said, to climb rocks, whowere afraid to face Indians. It was in vain that Mr. Stuart representedto him the rashness of his conduct, and the dangers to which he exposedhimself: he rejected such counsel as craven. It was equally useless torepresent the dangers to which he subjected his companions; as hecould be discovered at a great distance on those naked plains, andthe Indians, seeing him, would know that there must be other white menwithin reach. M'Lellan turned a deaf ear to every remonstrance, and kepton his wilful way. 

It seemed a strange instance of perverseness in this man thus to flinghimself off alone, in a savage region, where solitude itself was dismal, and every encounter with his fellow-man full of peril. Such, however, isthe hardness of spirit, and the insensibility to danger that growupon men in the wilderness. M'Lellan, moreover, was a man of peculiartemperament, ungovernable in his will, of a courage that absolutely knewno fear, and somewhat of a braggart spirit, that took a pride in doingdesperate and hair-brained things. 

Mr. Stuart and his party found the passages of the mountain somewhatdifficult, on account of the snow, which in many places was ofconsiderable depth, though it was but the 1st of October. They crossedthe summit early in the afternoon, and beheld below them, a plainabout twenty miles wide, bounded on the opposite side by their oldacquaintances, the Pilot Knobs, those towering mountains which hadserved Mr. Hunt as landmarks in part of his route of the preceding year. Through the intermediate plain wandered a river about fifty yards wide, sometimes gleaming in open day, but oftener running through willowedbanks, which marked its serpentine course. 

Those of the party who had been across these mountains, pointed out muchof the bearings of the country to Mr. Stuart. They showed him in whatdirection must lie the deserted post called Henry's Fort, where theyhad abandoned their horses and embarked in canoes, and they informed himthat the stream which wandered through the plain below them, fell intoHenry River, half way between the fort and the mouth of Mad or SnakeRiver. The character of all this mountain region was decidedly volcanic;and to the northwest, between Henry's Fort and the source of theMissouri, Mr. Stuart observed several very high peaks covered with snow, from two of which smoke ascended in considerable volumes, apparentlyfrom craters in a state of eruption. 

On their way down the mountain, when they had reached the skirts, theydescried M'Lellan at a distance, in the advance, traversing the plain. Whether he saw them or not, he showed no disposition to rejoin them, butpursued his sullen and solitary way. 

After descending into the plain, they kept on about six miles, untilthey reached the little river, which was here about knee deep, andrichly fringed with willow. Here they encamped for the night. At thisencampment the fever of Mr. Crooks increased to such a degree that itwas impossible for him to travel. Some of the men were strenuous forMr. Stuart to proceed without him, urging the imminent danger they wereexposed to by delay in that unknown and barren region, infested by themost treacherous and inveterate foes. They represented that the seasonwas rapidly advancing; the weather for some days had been extremelycold; the mountains were already almost impassable from snow, and wouldsoon present effectual barriers. Their provisions were exhausted; therewas no game to be seen, and they did not dare to use their rifles, through fear of drawing upon them the Blackfeet. 

The picture thus presented was too true to be contradicted, and made adeep impression on the mind of Mr. Stuart; but the idea of abandoninga fellow being, and a comrade, in such a forlorn situation, was toorepugnant to his feelings to be admitted for an instant. He representedto the men that the malady of Mr. Crooks could not be of long duration, and that, in all probability, he would be able to travel in the courseof a few days. It was with great difficulty, however, that he prevailedupon them to abide the event. 

CHAPTER XLVII. 

 Ben Jones and a Grizzly Bear. --Rocky Heights--Mountain Torrents. --Traces of M'Lellan. --Volcanic Remains--Mineral Earths. --Peculiar Clay for Pottery. --Dismal Plight of M'Lellan. --Starvation. --Shocking Proposition of a Desperate Man. --A Broken-Down Bull. --A Ravenous Meal. --Indian Graves-- Hospitable Snakes. -A Forlorn Alliance. 

AS the travellers were now in a dangerous neighborhood, where the reportof a rifle might bring the savages upon them, they had to depend upontheir old beaver-trap for subsistence. The little river on whichthey were encamped gave many "beaver signs, " and Ben Jones set off atdaybreak, along the willowed banks, to find a proper trapping-place. Ashe was making his way among the thickets, with his trap on his shoulderand his rifle in his hand, he heard a crushing sound, and turning, beheld a huge grizzly bear advancing upon him, with terrific growl. Thesturdy Kentuckian was not to be intimidated by man or monster. Levelinghis rifle, he pulled the trigger. The bear was wounded, but notmortally: instead, however, of rushing upon his assailant, as isgenerally the case with this kind of bear, he retreated into the bushes. Jones followed him for some distance, but with suitable caution, andBruin effected his escape. 

As there was every prospect of a detention of some days in this place, and as the supplies of the beaver-trap were too precarious to bedepended upon, it became absolutely necessary to run some risk ofdiscovery by hunting in the neighborhood. Ben Jones, therefore, obtainedpermission to range with his rifle some distance from the camp, and setoff to beat up the river banks, in defiance of bear or Blackfeet. 

He returned in great spirits in the course of a few hours, having comeupon a gang of elk about six miles off, and killed five. This wasjoyful news, and the party immediately moved forward to the place wherehe had left the carcasses. They were obliged to support Mr. Crooks thewhole distance, for he was unable to walk. Here they remained for twoor three days, feasting heartily on elk meat, and drying as much as theywould be able to carry away with them. 

By the 5th of October, some simple prescriptions, together with an"Indian sweat, " had so far benefited Mr. Crooks, that he was enabledto move about; they therefore set forward slowly, dividing his pack andaccoutrements among them, and made a creeping day's progress of eightmiles south. Their route for the most part lay through swamps caused bythe industrious labors of the beaver; for this little animal had dammedup numerous small streams, issuing from the Pilot Knob Mountains, sothat the low grounds on their borders were completely inundated. In thecourse of their march they killed a grizzly bear, with fat on its flanksupwards of three inches in thickness. This was an acceptable additionto their stock of elk meat. The next day Mr. Crooks was sufficientlyrecruited in strength to be able to carry his rifle and pistols, andthey made a march of seventeen miles along the borders of the plain. 

Their journey daily became more toilsome, and their sufferings moresevere, as they advanced. Keeping up the channel of a river, theytraversed the rugged summit of the Pilot Knob Mountain, covered withsnow nine inches deep. For several days they continued, bending theircourse as much as possible to the east, over a succession of rockyheights, deep valleys, and rapid streams. Sometimes their dizzy path layalong the margin of perpendicular precipices, several hundred feet inheight, where a single false step might precipitate them into the rockybed of a torrent which roared below. Not the least part of their wearytask was the fording of the numerous windings and branchings of themountain rivers, all boisterous in their currents, and icy cold. 

Hunger was added to their other sufferings, and soon became the keenest. The small supply of bear and elk meat which they had been able to carry, in addition to their previous burdens, served but for a short time. Intheir anxiety to struggle forward, they had but little time to hunt, andscarce any game in their path. For three days they had nothing to eatbut a small duck, and a few poor trout. They occasionally saw numbersof the antelopes, and tried every art to get within shot; but the timidanimals were more than commonly wild, and after tantalizing the hungryhunters for a time, bounded away beyond all chance of pursuit. At lengththey were fortunate enough to kill one: it was extremely meagre, andyielded but a scanty supply; but on this they subsisted for severaldays. 

On the 11th, they encamped on a small stream, near the foot of theSpanish River Mountain. Here they met with traces of that wayward andsolitary being, M'Lellan, who was still keeping on ahead of them throughthese lonely mountains. He had encamped the night before on this stream;they found the embers of the fire by which he had slept, and the remainsof a miserable wolf on which he had supped. It was evident he hadsuffered, like themselves, the pangs of hunger, though he had faredbetter at this encampment; for they had not a mouthful to eat. 

The next day, they rose hungry and alert, and set out with the dawn toclimb the mountain, which was steep and difficult. Traces of volcaniceruptions were to be seen in various directions. There was a species ofclay also to be met with, out of which the Indians manufactured pots andjars, and dishes. It is very fine and light, of an agreeable smell, and of a brown color spotted with yellow, and dissolves readily in themouth. Vessels manufactured of it are said to impart a pleasant smelland flavor to any liquids. These mountains abound also with mineralearths, or chalks of various colors; especially two kinds of ochre, one a pale, the other a bright red, like vermilion; much used by theIndians, in painting their bodies. 

About noon, the travellers reached the "drains" and brooks that formedthe head waters of the river, and later in the day, descended to wherethe main body, a shallow stream, about a hundred and sixty yards wide, poured through its mountain valley. 

Here the poor famishing wanderers had expected to find buffalo inabundance, and had fed their hungry hopes during their scrambling toll, with the thoughts of roasted ribs, juicy humps, and broiled marrowbones. To their great disappointment, the river banks were deserted--afew old tracks showed where a herd of bulls had some time before passedalong, but not a horn nor hump was to be seen in the sterile landscape. A few antelopes looked down upon them from the brow of a crag, butflitted away out of sight at the least approach of the hunter. 

In the most starving mood they kept for several miles further alongthe bank of the river, seeking for "beaver signs. " Finding some, theyencamped in the vicinity, and Ben Jones immediately proceeded to set thetrap. They had scarce come to a halt, when they perceived a large smokeat some distance to the southwest. The sight was hailed with joy, forthey trusted it might rise from some Indian camp, where they couldprocure something to eat, and the dread of starvation had now overcomeeven the terror of the Blackfeet. Le Clerc, one of the Canadians, wasinstantly despatched by Mr. Stuart, to reconnoitre; and the travellerssat up till a late hour, watching and listening for his return, hopinghe might bring them food. Midnight arrived, but Le Clerc did not makehis appearance, and they laid down once more supperless to sleep, comforting themselves with the hopes that their old beaver trap mightfurnish them with a breakfast. 

At daybreak they hastened with famished eagerness to the trap. Theyfound in it the forepaw of a beaver, the sight of which tantalized theirhunger, and added to their dejection. They resumed their journey withflagging spirits, but had not gone far when they perceived Le Clercapproaching at a distance. They hastened to meet him, in hopes oftidings of good cheer. He had none to give them; but news of thatstrange wanderer, M'Lellan. The smoke had risen from his encampmentwhich took fire while he was at a little distance from it fishing. LeClerc found him in forlorn condition. His fishing had been unsuccessful. During twelve days that he had been wandering alone through thesesavage mountains, he had found scarce anything to eat. He had been ill, wayworn, sick at heart, still he had kept forward; but now his strengthand his stubbornness were exhausted. He expressed his satisfaction athearing that Mr. Stuart and his party were near, and said he would waitat his camp for their arrival, in hopes they would give him something toeat, for without food he declared he should not be able to proceed muchfurther. 

When the party reached the place, they found the poor fellow lying ona parcel of withered grass, wasted to a perfect skeleton, and so feeblethat he could scarce raise his head or speak. The presence of his oldcomrades seemed to revive him, but they had no food to give him, for they themselves were almost starving. They urged him to rise andaccompany them, but he shook his head. It was all in vain, he said;there was no prospect of their getting speedy relief, and without ithe should perish by the way; he might as well, therefore, stay and diewhere he was. At length, after much persuasion, they got him upon hislegs; his rifle and other effects were shared among them, and he wascheered and aided forward. In this way they proceeded for seventeenmiles, over a level plain of sand, until seeing a few antelopes in thedistance, they encamped on the margin of a small stream. All now thatwere capable of the exertion, turned out to hunt for a meal. Theirefforts were fruitless, and after dark they returned to their camp, famished almost to desperation. 

As they were preparing for the third time to lay down to sleep withouta mouthful to eat, Le Clerc, one of the Canadians, gaunt and wild withhunger, approached Mr. Stuart with his gun in his hand. "It was all invain, " he said, "to attempt to proceed any further without food. Theyhad a barren plain before them, three or four days' journey in extent, on which nothing was to be procured. They must all perish before theycould get to the end of it. It was better, therefore, that one shoulddie to save the rest. " He proposed, therefore, that they shouldcast lots; adding, as an inducement for Mr. Stuart to assent to theproposition, that he, as leader of the party, should be exempted. 

Mr. Stuart shuddered at the horrible proposition, and endeavored toreason with the man, but his words were unavailing. At length, snatchingup his rifle, he threatened to shoot him on the spot if he persisted. The famished wretch dropped on his knees, begged pardon in the mostabject terms, and promised never again to offend him with such asuggestion. 

Quiet being restored to the forlorn encampment, each one sought repose. Mr. Stuart, however, was so exhausted by the agitation of the pastscene, acting upon his emaciated frame, that he could scarce crawl tohis miserable couch; where, notwithstanding his fatigues, he passeda sleepless night, revolving upon their dreary situation, and thedesperate prospect before them. 

Before daylight the next morning, they were up and on their way; theyhad nothing to detain them; no breakfast to prepare, and to linger wasto perish. They proceeded, however, but slowly, for all were faint andweak. Here and there they passed the skulls and bones of buffaloes, which showed that these animals must have been hunted here during thepast season; the sight of these bones served only to mock their misery. After travelling about nine miles along the plain, they ascended a rangeof hills, and had scarcely gone two miles further, when, to theirgreat joy, they discovered "an old run-down buffalo bull;" the laggardprobably of some herd that had been hunted and harassed through themountains. They now all stretched themselves out to encompass andmake sure of this solitary animal, for their lives depended upon theirsuccess. After considerable trouble and infinite anxiety, they at lengthsucceeded in killing him. He was instantly flayed and cut up, and soravenous was their hunger, that they devoured some of the flesh raw. The residue they carried to a brook near by, where they encamped, lit afire, and began to cook. 

Mr. Stuart was fearful that in their famished state they would eat toexcess and injure themselves. He caused a soup to be made of some ofthe meat, and that each should take a quantity of it as a prelude to hissupper. This may have had a beneficial effect, for though they sat upthe greater part of the night, cooking and cramming, no one suffered anyinconvenience. 

The next morning the feasting was resumed, and about midday, feelingsomewhat recruited and refreshed, they set out on their journey withrenovated spirits, shaping their course towards a mountain, the summitof which they saw towering in the east, and near to which they expectedto find the head waters of the Missouri. 

As they proceeded, they continued to see the skeletons of buffaloesscattered about the plain in every direction, which showed that therehad been much hunting here by the Indians in the recent season. Furtheron they crossed a large Indian trail forming a deep path, about fifteendays old, which went in a north direction. They concluded it to havebeen made by some numerous band of Crows, who had hunted in this countryfor the greater part of the summer. 

On the following day they forded a stream of considerable magnitude, with banks clothed with pine trees. Among these they found the tracesof a large Indian camp, which had evidently been the headquarters of ahunting expedition, from the great quantities of buffalo bones strewedabout the neighborhood. The camp had apparently been abandoned about amonth. 

In the centre was a singular lodge one hundred and fifty feet incircumference, supported by the trunks of twenty trees, about twelveinches in diameter and forty-four feet long. Across these were laidbranches of pine and willow trees, so as to yield a tolerable shade. At the west end, immediately opposite to the door, three bodies layinterred with their feet towards the east. At the head of each was abranch of red cedar firmly planted in the ground. At the foot was alarge buffalo's skull, painted black. Savage ornaments were suspendedin various parts of the edifice, and a great number of children'smoccasins. From the magnitude of this building, and the time andlabor that must have been expended in erecting it, the bodies which itcontained were probably those of noted warriors and hunters. 

The next day, October 17th, they passed two large tributary streams ofthe Spanish River. They took their rise in the Wind River Mountains, which ranged along to the east, stupendously high and rugged, composedof vast masses of black rock, almost destitute of wood, and covered inmany places with snow. This day they saw a few buffalo bulls, and someantelopes, but could not kill any; and their stock of provisions beganto grow scanty as well as poor. 

On the 18th, after crossing a mountain ridge, and traversing a plain, they waded one of the branches of Spanish River, and on ascending itsbank, met with about a hundred and thirty Snake Indians. They werefriendly in their demeanor, and conducted them to their encampment, which was about three miles distant. It consisted of about fortywigwams, constructed principally of pine branches. The Snakes, likemost of their nation, were very poor; the marauding Crows, in their lateexcursion through the country, had picked this unlucky band to the verybone, carrying off their horses, several of their squaws, and most oftheir effects. In spite of their poverty, they were hospitable in theextreme, and made the hungry strangers welcome to their cabins. A fewtrinkets procured from them a supply of buffalo meat, and of leather formoccasins, of which the party were greatly in need. The most valuableprize obtained from them, however, was a horse; it was a sorry oldanimal in truth, but it was the only one that remained to the poorfellows, after the fell swoop of the Crows; yet this they were prevailedupon to part with to their guests for a pistol, an axe, a knife, and afew other trifling articles. 

They had doleful stories to tell of the Crows, who were encamped on ariver at no great distance to the east, and were in such force that theydared not venture to seek any satisfaction for their outrages, or toget back a horse or squaw. They endeavored to excite the indignation oftheir visitors by accounts of robberies and murders committed on lonelywhite hunters and trappers by Crows and Blackfeet. Some of these wereexaggerations of the outrages already mentioned, sustained by someof the scattered members of Mr. Hunt's expedition; others were in allprobability sheer fabrications, to which the Snakes seem to have been alittle prone. Mr. Stuart assured them that the day was not far distantwhen the whites would make their power to be felt throughout thatcountry, and take signal vengeance on the perpetrators of thesemisdeeds. The Snakes expressed great joy at the intelligence, andoffered their services to aid the righteous cause, brightening at thethoughts of taking the field with such potent allies, and doubtlessanticipating their turn at stealing horses and abducting squaws. Theiroffers, of course, were accepted; the calumet of peace was produced, andthe two forlorn powers smoked eternal friendship between themselves, andvengeance upon their common spoilers, the Crows. 

CHAPTER XLVIII. 

 Spanish River Scenery. --Trail of Crow Indians. --A Snow- Storm. --A Rousing Fire and a Buffalo Feast. --A Plain of Salt. --Climbing a Mountain. --Volcanic Summit. --Extinguished Crater. --Marine Shells. --Encampment on a Prairie. -- Successful Hunting. --Good Cheer. --Romantic Scenery--Rocky Defile. --Foaming Rapids. --The Fiery Narrows. 

BY sunrise on the following morning (October 19th), the travellershad loaded their old horse with buffalo meat, sufficient for fivedays' provisions, and, taking leave of their new allies, the poor, buthospitable Snakes, set forth in somewhat better spirits, though theincreasing cold of the weather, and the sight of the snowy mountainswhich they had yet to traverse, were enough to chill their very hearts. The country along this branch of the Spanish River, as far as they couldsee, was perfectly level, bounded by ranges of lofty mountains, both tothe east and west. They proceeded about three miles to the south, wherethey came again upon the large trail of Crow Indians, which they hadcrossed four days previously, made, no doubt, by the same marauding bandthat had plundered the Snakes; and which, according to the account ofthe latter, was now encamped on a stream to the eastward. The trail kepton to the southeast, and was so well beaten by horse and foot, that theysupposed at least a hundred lodges had passed along it. As it formed, therefore, a convenient highway, and ran in a proper direction, theyturned into it, and determined to keep along it as far as safety wouldpermit: as the Crow encampment must be some distance off, and it wasnot likely those savages would return upon their steps. They travelledforward, therefore, all that day, in the track of their dangerouspredecessors, which led them across mountain streams, and long ridges, and through narrow valleys, all tending generally towards the southeast. The wind blew coldly from the northeast, with occasional flurries ofsnow, which made them encamp early, on the sheltered banks of a brook. The two Canadians, Vallee and Le Clerc, killed a young buffalo bull inthe evening, which was in good condition, and afforded them a plentifulsupply of fresh beef. They loaded their spits, therefore, and crammedtheir camp kettle with meat, and while the wind whistled, and the snowwhirled around them, huddled round a rousing fire, basked in its warmth, and comforted both soul and body with a hearty and invigorating meal. Noenjoyments have greater zest than these, snatched in the very midstof difficulty and danger; and it is probable the poor wayworn andweather-beaten travellers relished these creature comforts the morehighly from the surrounding desolation, and the dangerous proximity ofthe Crows. 

The snow which had fallen in the night made it late in the morningbefore the party loaded their solitary packhorse, and resumed theirmarch. They had not gone far before the Crow trace which they werefollowing changed its direction, and bore to the north of east. They hadalready begun to feel themselves on dangerous ground in keeping alongit, as they might be descried by some scouts and spies of that race ofIshmaelites, whose predatory life required them to be constantly on thealert. On seeing the trace turn so much to the north, therefore, theyabandoned it, and kept on their course to the southeast for eighteenmiles, through a beautifully undulating country, having the main chainof mountains on the left, and a considerably elevated ridge on theright. Here the mountain ridge which divides Wind River from the headwaters of the Columbia and Spanish Rivers, ends abruptly, and winding tothe north of east, becomes the dividing barrier between a branch of theBig Horn and Cheyenne Rivers, and those head waters which flow into theMissouri below the Sioux country. 

The ridge which lay on the right of the travellers having now becomevery low, they passed over it, and came into a level plain, about tenmiles in circumference, and incrusted to the depth of a foot or eighteeninches with salt as white as snow. This is furnished by numerous saltsprings of limpid water, which are continually welling up, overflowingtheir borders, and forming beautiful crystallizations. The Indian tribesof the interior are excessively fond of this salt, and repair to thevalley to collect it, but it is held in distaste by the tribes of thesea-coast, who will eat nothing that has been cured or seasoned by it. 

This evening they encamped on the banks of a small stream, in the openprairie. The northeast wind was keen and cutting; they had nothingwherewith to make a fire, but a scanty growth of sage, or wormwood, andwere fain to wrap themselves up in their blankets, and huddle themselvesin their "nests, " at an early hour. In the course of the evening, Mr. M'Lellan, who had now regained his strength, killed a buffalo, but itwas some distance from the camp, and they postponed supplying themselvesfrom the carcass until the following morning. 

The next day (October 21st), the cold continued, accompanied by snow. They set forward on their bleak and toilsome way, keeping to theeast northeast, towards the lofty summit of a mountain, which it wasnecessary for them to cross. Before they reached its base they passedanother large trail, steering a little to the right of the point of themountain. This they presumed to have been made by another band of Crows, who had probably been hunting lower down on the Spanish River. 

The severity of the weather compelled them to encamp at the endof fifteen miles, on the skirts of the mountain, where they foundsufficient dry aspen trees to supply them with fire, but they sought invain about the neighborhood for a spring or rill of water. 

At daybreak they were up and on the march, scrambling up the mountainside for the distance of eight painful miles. From the casual hintsgiven in the travelling memoranda of Mr. Stuart, this mountain wouldseem to offer a rich field of speculation for the geologist. Here wasa plain three miles in diameter, strewed with pumice stones and othervolcanic reliques, with a lake in the centre, occupying what hadprobably been the crater. Here were also, in some places, deposits ofmarine shells, indicating that this mountain crest had at some remoteperiod been below the waves. 

After pausing to repose, and to enjoy these grand but savage and awfulscenes, they began to descend the eastern side of the mountain. Thedescent was rugged and romantic, along deep ravines and defiles, overhung with crags and cliffs, among which they beheld numbers of theahsahta or bighorn, skipping fearlessly from rock to rock. Two ofthem they succeeded in bringing down with their rifles, as they peeredfearlessly from the brow of their airy precipices. 

Arrived at the foot of the mountain, the travellers found a rill ofwater oozing out of the earth, and resembling in look and taste, thewater of the Missouri. Here they encamped for the night, and suppedsumptuously upon their mountain mutton, which they found in goodcondition, and extremely well tasted. 

The morning was bright, and intensely cold. Early in the day they cameupon a stream running to the east, between low hills of bluish earth, strongly impregnated with copperas. Mr. Stuart supposed this to be oneof the head waters of the Missouri, and determined to follow its banks. After a march of twenty-six miles, however, he arrived at the summitof a hill, the prospect of which induced him to alter his intention. Hebeheld, in every direction south of east, a vast plain, bounded onlyby the horizon, through which wandered the stream in question, in asouth-south-east direction. It could not, therefore, be a branch of theMissouri. He now gave up all idea of taking the stream for his guide, and shaped his course towards a range of mountains in the east, aboutsixty miles distant, near which he hoped to find another stream. 

The weather was now so severe, and the hardships of travelling so great, that he resolved to halt for the winter, at the first eligible place. That night they had to encamp on the open prairie, near a scanty poolof water, and without any wood to make a fire. The northeast wind blewkeenly across the naked waste, and they were fain to decamp from theirinhospitable bivouac before the dawn. 

For two days they kept on in an eastward direction, against wintryblasts and occasional snow storms. They suffered, also, from scarcityof water, having occasionally to use melted snow; this, with the want ofpasturage, reduced their old pack-horse sadly. They saw many tracks ofbuffalo, and some few bulls, which, however, got the wind of them, andscampered off. 

On the 26th of October, they steered east-northeast, for a wooded ravinein a mountain, at a small distance from the base of which, to theirgreat joy, they discovered an abundant stream, running between willowedbanks. Here they halted for the night, and Ben Jones having luckilytrapped a beaver, and killed two buffalo bulls, they remained all thenext day encamped, feasting and reposing, and allowing their jaded horseto rest from his labors. 

The little stream on which they were encamped, was one of the headwaters of the Platte River, which flows into the Missouri; it was, in fact, the northern fork, or branch of that river, though this thetravellers did not discover until long afterwards. Pursuing the courseof this stream for about twenty miles, they came to where it forceda passage through a range of high hills, covered with cedars, into anextensive low country, affording excellent pasture to numerous herds ofbuffalo. Here they killed three cows, which were the first they had beenable to get, having hitherto had to content themselves with bull beef, which at this season of the year is very poor. The hump meat affordedthem a repast fit for an epicure. 

Late on the afternoon of the 30th, they came to where the stream, nowincreased to a considerable size, poured along in a ravine betweenprecipices of red stone, two hundred feet in height. For some distanceit dashed along, over huge masses of rock, with foaming violence, as ifexasperated by being compressed into so narrow a channel, and at lengthleaped down a chasm that looked dark and frightful in the gatheringtwilight. 

For a part of the next day, the wild river, in its capriciouswanderings, led them through a variety of striking scenes. At one timethey were upon high plains, like platforms among the mountains, withherds of buffaloes roaming about them; at another among rude rockydefiles, broken into cliffs and precipices, where the blacktailed deerbounded off among the crags, and the bighorn basked in the sunny brow ofthe precipice. 

In the after part of the day, they came to another scene, surpassing insavage grandeur those already described. They had been travelling forsome distance through a pass of the mountains, keeping parallel withthe river, as it roared along, out of sight, through a deep ravine. Sometimes their devious path approached the margin of cliffs below whichthe river foamed, and boiled, and whirled among the masses of rock thathad fallen into its channel. As they crept cautiously on, leading theirsolitary pack-horse along these giddy heights, they all at once came towhere the river thundered down a succession of precipices, throwing upclouds of spray, and making a prodigious din and uproar. The travellersremained, for a time, gazing with mingled awe and delight, at thisfurious cataract, to which Mr. Stuart gave, from the color of theimpending rocks, the name of "The Fiery Narrows. "

CHAPTER XLIX. 

 Wintry Storms. --A Halt and Council. --Cantonment for the Winter. --Fine Hunting Country. --Game of the Mountains and Plains. -Successful Hunting--Mr. Crooks and a Grizzly Bear. -- The Wigwam. --Bighorn and Black-Tails. --Beef and Venison. -- Good Quarters and Good Cheer. --An Alarm. --An Intrusion. -- Unwelcome Guests. -Desolation of the Larder. --Gormandizing Exploits of Hungry Savages. --Good Quarters Abandoned. 

THE travellers encamped for the night on the banks of the river belowthe cataract. The night was cold, with partial showers of rain andsleet. The morning dawned gloomily, the skies were sullen and overcast, and threatened further storms; but the little band resumed theirjourney, in defiance of the weather. The increasing rigor of the season, however, which makes itself felt early in these mountainous regions, and on these naked and elevated plains, brought them to a pause, anda serious deliberation, after they had descended about thirty milesfurther along the course of the river. 

All were convinced that it was in vain to attempt to accomplish theirjourney, on foot, at this inclement season. They had still many hundredmiles to traverse before they should reach the main course of theMissouri, and their route would lay over immense prairies, naked andbleak, and destitute of fuel. The question then was, where to choosetheir wintering place, and whether or not to proceed further down theriver. They had at first imagined it to be one of the head waters, ortributary streams, of the Missouri. Afterwards they had believed itto be the Rapid, or Quicourt River, in which opinion they had not comenearer to the truth; they now, however, were persuaded, with equalfallacy, by its inclining somewhat to the north of east, that it wasthe Cheyenne. If so, by continuing down it much further they must arriveamong the Indians, from whom the river takes its name. Among these theywould be sure to meet some of the Sioux tribe. These would appraisetheir relatives, the piratical Sioux of the Missouri, of the approachof a band of white traders; so that, in the spring time, they would belikely to be waylaid and robbed on their way down the river, by someparty in ambush upon its banks. 

Even should this prove to be the Quicourt or Rapid River, it would notbe prudent to winter much further down upon its banks, as, thoughthey might be out of the range of the Sioux, they would be in theneighborhood of the Poncas, a tribe nearly as dangerous. It wasresolved, therefore, since they must winter somewhere on this side ofthe Missouri, to descend no lower, but to keep up in these solitaryregions, where they would be in no danger of molestation. 

They were brought the more promptly and unanimously to this decision, by coming upon an excellent wintering place, that promised everythingrequisite for their comfort. It was on a fine bend of the river, justbelow where it issued out from among a ridge of mountains, and benttowards the northeast. Here was a beautiful low point of land, coveredby cotton-wood, and surrounded by a thick growth of willow, so as toyield both shelter and fuel, as well as materials for building. Theriver swept by in a strong current, about a hundred and fifty yardswide. To the southeast were mountains of moderate height, the nearestabout two miles off, but the whole chain ranging to the east, south, and southwest, as far as the eye could reach. Their summits were crownedwith extensive tracts of pitch pine, checkered with small patches of thequivering aspen. Lower down were thick forests of firs and red cedars, growing out in many places from the very fissures of the rocks. Themountains were broken and precipitous, with huge bluffs protruding fromamong the forests. 

Their rocky recesses and beetling cliffs afforded retreats toinnumerable flocks of the bighorn, while their woody summits and ravinesabounded with bears and black-tailed deer. These, with the numerousherds of buffalo that ranged the lower grounds along the river, promisedthe travellers abundant cheer in their winter quarters. 

On the 2d of November, therefore, they pitched their camp for thewinter, on the woody point, and their first thought was to obtaina supply of provisions. Ben Jones and the two Canadians accordinglysallied forth, accompanied by two others of the party, leaving butone to watch the camp. Their hunting was uncommonly successful. In thecourse of two days, they killed thirty-two buffaloes, and collectedtheir meat on the margin of a small brook, about a mile distant. Fortunately, a severe frost froze the river, so that the meat was easilytransported to the encampment. On a succeeding day, a herd of buffalocame trampling through the woody bottom on the river banks, and fifteenmore were killed. 

It was soon discovered, however, that there was game of a more dangerousnature in the neighborhood. On one occasion, Mr. Crooks had wanderedabout a mile from the camp, and had ascended a small hill commanding aview of the river. He was without his rifle, a rare circumstance, forin these wild regions, where one may put up a wild animal, or a wildIndian, at every turn, it is customary never to stir from the camp-fireunarmed. The hill where he stood overlooked the place where themassacre of the buffalo had taken place. As he was looking around on theprospect, his eye was caught by an object below, moving directly towardshim. To his dismay, he discovered it to be a grizzly bear, with twocubs. There was no tree at hand into which he could climb; to run, wouldonly be to provoke pursuit, and he should soon be overtaken. He threwhimself on the ground, therefore, and lay motionless, watching themovements of the animal with intense anxiety. It continued to advanceuntil at the foot of the hill, when it turned, and made into the woods, having probably gorged itself with buffalo flesh. Mr. Crooks made allhaste back to the camp, rejoicing at his escape, and determining neverto stir out again without his rifle. A few days after this circumstance, a grizzly bear was shot in the neighborhood by Mr. Miller. 

As the slaughter of so many buffaloes had provided the party with beeffor the winter, in case they met with no further supply, they now set towork, heart and hand, to build a comfortable wigwam. In a little whilethe woody promontory rang with the unwonted sound of the axe. Some ofits lofty trees were laid low, and by the second evening the cabin wascomplete. It was eight feet wide, and eighteen feet long. The wallswere six feet high, and the whole was covered with buffalo skins. Thefireplace was in the centre, and the smoke found its way out by a holein the roof. 

The hunters were next sent out to procure deer-skins for garments, moccasins, and other purposes. They made the mountains echo with theirrifles, and, in the course of two days' hunting, killed twenty-eightbighorns and black-tailed deer. 

The party now reveled in abundance. After all that they had sufferedfrom hunger, cold, fatigue and watchfulness; after all their perils fromtreacherous and savage men, they exulted in the snugness and security oftheir isolated cabin, hidden, as they thought, even from the prying eyesof Indian scouts, and stored with creature comforts; and they lookedforward to a winter of peace and quietness, of roasting, and boiling, and broiling, and feasting upon venison, and mountain mutton, and bear'smeat, and marrow bones, and buffalo humps, and other hunter's dainties, and of dozing and reposing round their fire, and gossiping over pastdangers and adventures, and telling long hunting stories, until springshould return; when they would make canoes of buffalo skins and floatthemselves down the river. 

From such halcyon dreams, they were startled one morning, at daybreak, by a savage yell. They started tip and seized their rifles. The yell wasrepeated by two or three voices. Cautiously peeping out, they beheld, to their dismay, several Indian warriors among the trees, all armed andpainted in warlike style; being evidently bent on some hostile purpose. 

Miller changed countenance as he regarded them. "We are in trouble, "said he, "these are some of the rascally Arapahays that robbed melast year. " Not a word was uttered by the rest of the party, but theysilently slung their powder horns and ball pouches, and prepared forbattle. M'Lellan, who had taken his gun to pieces the evening before, put it together in all haste. He proposed that they should break out theclay from between the logs, so as to be able to fire upon the enemy. 

"Not yet, " replied Stuart; "it will not do to show fear or distrust;we must first hold a parley. Some one must go out and meet them as afriend. "

Who was to undertake the task! It was full of peril, as the envoy mightbe shot down at the threshold. 

"The leader of a party, " said Miller, "always takes the advance. "

"Good!" replied Stuart; "I am ready. " He immediately went forth; oneof the Canadians followed him; the rest of the party remained in thegarrison, to keep the savages in check. 

Stuart advanced holding his rifle in one hand, and extending the otherto the savage that appeared to be the chief. The latter stepped forwardand took it; his men followed his example, and all shook hands withStuart, in token of friendship. They now explained their errand. Theywere a war party of Arapahay braves. Their village lay on a streamseveral days' journey to the eastward. It had been attacked and ravagedduring their absence, by a band of Crows, who had carried off several oftheir women, and most of their horses. They were in quest of vengeance. For sixteen days they had been tracking the Crows about the mountains, but had not yet come upon them. In the meantime, they had met withscarcely any game, and were half famished. About two days previously, they had heard the report of fire-arms among the mountains, and onsearching in the direction of the sound, had come to a place where adeer had been killed. They had immediately put themselves upon the trackof the hunters, and by following it up, had arrived at the cabin. 

Mr. Stuart now invited the chief and another, who appeared to be hislieutenant, into the hut, but made signs that no one else was to enter. The rest halted at the door; others came straggling up, until the wholeparty, to the number of twenty-three, were gathered before the hut. They were armed with bows and arrows, tomahawks and scalping knives, andsome few with guns. All were painted and dressed for war, and had a wildand fierce appearance. Mr. Miller recognized among them some of the veryfellows who had robbed him in the preceding year; and put his comradesupon their guard. Every man stood ready to resist the first act ofhostility; the savages, however, conducted themselves peaceably, andshowed none of that swaggering arrogance which a war party is apt toassume. 

On entering the hut the chief and his lieutenant cast a wistful lookat the rafters, laden with venison and buffalo meat. Mr. Stuart made amerit of necessity, and invited them to help themselves. They did notwait to be pressed. The rafters were soon eased of their burden; venisonand beef were passed out to the crew before the door, and a scene ofgormandizing commenced, of which few can have an idea, who have notwitnessed the gastronomic powers of an Indian, after an interval offasting. This was kept up throughout the day; they paused now and then, it is true, for a brief interval, but only to return to the charge withrenewed ardor. The chief and the lieutenant surpassed all the rest inthe vigor and perseverance of their attacks; as if from their stationthey were bound to signalize themselves in all onslaughts. Mr. Stuartkept them well supplied with choice bits, for it was his policy tooverfeed them, and keep them from leaving the hut, where they servedas hostages for the good conduct of their followers. Once, only, in thecourse of the day, did the chief sally forth. Mr. Stuart and one of hismen accompanied him, armed with their rifles, but without betraying anydistrust. The chieftain soon returned, and renewed his attack upon thelarder. In a word, he and his worthy coadjutor, the lieutenant, ateuntil they were both stupefied. 

Towards evening the Indians made their preparations for the nightaccording to the practice of war parties. Those outside of the hut threwup two breastworks, into which they retired at a tolerably early hour, and slept like overfed hounds. As to the chief and his lieutenant, theypassed the night in the hut, in the course of which, they, two or threetimes, got up to eat. The travellers took turns, one at a time, to mountguard until the morning. 

Scarce had the day dawned, when the gormandizing was renewed by thewhole band, and carried on with surprising vigor until ten o'clock, whenall prepared to depart. They had six days' journey yet to make, theysaid, before they should come up with the Crows, who, they understood, were encamped on a river to the northward. Their way lay through ahungry country, where there was no game; they would, moreover, havebut little time to hunt; they, therefore, craved a small supply ofprovisions for their journey. Mr. Stuart again invited them to helpthemselves. They did so with keen forethought, loading themselves withthe choicest parts of the meat, and leaving the late plenteous larderfar gone in a consumption. Their next request was for a supply ofammunition, having guns, but no powder and ball. They promised to paymagnificently out of the spoils of their foray. "We are poor now, " saidthey, "and are obliged to go on foot, but we shall soon come back ladenwith booty, and all mounted on horseback, with scalps hanging at ourbridles. We will then give each of you a horse to keep you from beingtired on your journey. "

"Well, " said Mr. Stuart, "when you bring the horses, you shall have theammunition, but not before. " The Indians saw by his determined tone, that all further entreaty would be unavailing, so they desisted, with agood-humored laugh, and went off exceedingly well freighted, both withinand without, promising to be back again in the course of a fortnight. 

No sooner were they out of hearing, than the luckless travellers heldanother council. The security of their cabin was at an end and withit all their dreams of a quiet and cozy winter. They were between twofires. On one side were their old enemies, the Crows; on the other side, the Arapahays, no less dangerous freebooters. As to the moderation ofthis war party, they considered it assumed, to put them off theirguard against some more favorable opportunity for a surprisal. It wasdetermined, therefore, not to await their return, but to abandon, withall speed, this dangerous neighborhood. From the accounts of theirrecent visitors, they were led to believe, though erroneously, that theywere upon the Quicourt, or Rapid River. They proposed now to keep alongit to its confluence with the Missouri; but, should they be preventedby the rigors of the season from proceeding so far, at least to reacha part of the river where they might be able to construct canoes ofgreater strength and durability than those of buffalo skins. 

Accordingly, on the 13th of December, they bade adieu, with many aregret, to their comfortable quarters where for five weeks they had beenindulging the sweets of repose, of plenty, and of fancied security. Theywere still accompanied by their veteran pack-horse, which the Arapahayshad omitted to steal, either because they intended to steal him on theirreturn, or because they thought him not worth stealing. 

CHAPTER L. 

 Rough Wintry Travelling--Hills and Plains. --Snow and Ice. -- Disappearance of Game. --A Vast Dreary Plain. --A. Second Halt for the Winter. --Another Wigwam. --New Year's Feast. --Buffalo Humps, Tongues, and Marrow-Bones. --Return of Spring. --Launch of Canoes. --Bad Navigation. --Pedestrian March. --Vast Prairies. --Deserted Camps. --Pawnee Squaws. --An Otto Indian. --News of War. --Voyage Down the Platte and the Missouri. --Reception at Fort Osage. --Arrival at St. Louis. 

THE interval of comfort and repose which the party had enjoyed in theirwigwam, rendered the renewal of their fatigues intolerable for the firsttwo or three days. The snow lay deep, and was slightly frozen on thesurface, but not sufficiently to bear their weight. Their feet becamesore by breaking through the crust, and their limbs weary by flounderingon without firm foothold. So exhausted and dispirited were they, thatthey began to think it would be better to remain and run the risk ofbeing killed by the Indians, than to drag on thus painfully, with theprobability of perishing by the way. Their miserable horse fared nobetter than themselves, having for the first day or two no other fodderthan the ends of willow twigs, and the bark of the cotton-wood tree. 

They all, however, appeared to gain patience and hardihood as theyproceeded, and for fourteen days kept steadily on, making a distanceof about three hundred and thirty miles. For some days, the range ofmountains which had been near to their wigwam kept parallel to the riverat no great distance, but at length subsided into hills. Sometimesthey found the river bordered with alluvial bottoms, and groves withcotton-wood and willows; sometimes the adjacent country was naked andbarren. In one place it ran for a considerable distance between rockyhills and promontories covered with cedar and pitch pines, and peopledwith the bighorn and the mountain deer; at other places it wanderedthrough prairies well stocked with buffaloes and antelopes. As theydescended the course of the river, they began to perceive the ash andwhite oak here and there among the cotton-wood and willow; and at lengthcaught a sight of some wild horses on the distant prairies. 

The weather was various; at one time the snow lay deep; then they hada genial day or two, with the mildness and serenity of autumn; then, again, the frost was so severe that the river was sufficiently frozen tobear them upon the ice. 

During the last three days of their fortnight's travel, however, theface of the country changed. The timber gradually diminished, until theycould scarcely find fuel sufficient for culinary purposes. The gamegrew more and more scanty, and, finally, none were to be seen but a fewmiserable broken-down buffalo bulls, not worth killing. The snow layfifteen inches deep, and made the travelling grievously painful andtoilsome. At length they came to an immense plain, where no vestige oftimber was to be seen; nor a single quadruped to enliven the desolatelandscape. Here, then, their hearts failed them, and they held anotherconsultation. The width of the river, which was upwards of a mile, itsextreme shallowness, the frequency of quicksands, and various othercharacteristics, had at length made them sensible of their errors withrespect to it, and they now came to the correct conclusion, that theywere on the banks of the Platte or Shallow River. What were they to do?Pursue its course to the Missouri? To go on at this season of the yearseemed dangerous in the extreme. There was no prospect of obtainingeither food or firing. The country was destitute of trees, and thoughthere might be drift-wood along the river, it lay too deep beneath thesnow for them to find it. 

The weather was threatening a change, and a snowstorm on these boundlesswastes might prove as fatal as a whirlwind of sand on an Arabian desert. After much dreary deliberation, it was at length determined to retracetheir three last days' journey of seventy-seven miles, to a place whichthey had remarked where there was a sheltering growth of forest trees, and a country abundant in game. Here they would once more set up theirwinter quarters, and await the opening of the navigation to launchthemselves in canoes. 

Accordingly, on the 27th of December, they faced about, retraced theirsteps, and on the 30th, regained the part of the river in question. Herethe alluvial bottom was from one to two miles wide, and thicklycovered with a forest of cotton-wood trees; while herds of buffalo werescattered about the neighboring prairie, several of which soon fellbeneath their rifles. 

They encamped on the margin of the river, in a grove where there weretrees large enough for canoes. Here they put up a shed for immediateshelter, and immediately proceeded to erect a hut. New Year's day dawnedwhen, as yet, but one wall of their cabin was completed; the genial andjovial day, however, was not permitted to pass uncelebrated, even bythis weatherbeaten crew of wanderers. All work was suspended, exceptthat of roasting and boiling. The choicest of the buffalo meat, withtongues, and humps, and marrow-bones, were devoured in quantities thatwould astonish any one that has not lived among hunters or Indians; andas an extra regale, having no tobacco left, they cut up an old tobaccopouch, still redolent with the potent herb, and smoked it in honor ofthe day. Thus for a time, in present revelry, however uncouth, theyforgot all past troubles and all anxieties about the future, and theirforlorn wigwam echoed to the sound of gayety. 

The next day they resumed their labors, and by the 6th of the month itwas complete. They soon killed abundance of buffalo, and again laid in astock of winter provisions. The party were more fortunate in this, theirsecond cantonment. The winter passed away without any Indian visitors, and the game continued to be plenty in the neighborhood. They felled twolarge trees, and shaped them into canoes; and, as the spring opened, anda thaw of several days' continuance melted the ice in the river, theymade every preparation for embarking. On the 8th of March they launchedforth in their canoes, but soon found that the river had not depthsufficient even for such slender barks. It expanded into a wide butextremely shallow stream, with many sand-bars, and occasionally variouschannels. They got one of their canoes a few miles down it, with extremedifficulty, sometimes wading and dragging it over the shoals; at lengththey had to abandon the attempt, and to resume their journey on foot, aided by their faithful old pack-horse, who had recruited strengthduring the repose of the winter. 

The weather delayed them for a few days, having suddenly become morerigorous than it had been at any time during the winter; but on the 20thof March they were again on their journey. 

In two days they arrived at the vast naked prairie, the wintry aspect ofwhich had caused them, in December, to pause and turn back. It was nowclothed in the early verdure of spring, and plentifully stocked withgame. Still, when obliged to bivouac on its bare surface, without anyshelter, and by a scanty fire of dry buffalo dung, they found the nightblasts piercing cold. On one occasion, a herd of buffalo straying neartheir evening camp, they killed three of them merely for their hides, wherewith to make a shelter for the night. 

They continued on for upwards of a hundred miles; with vast prairiesextending before them as they advanced; sometimes diversified byundulating hills, but destitute of trees. In one place they saw agang of sixty-five wild horses, but as to the buffaloes, they seemedabsolutely to cover the country. Wild geese abounded, and they passedextensive swamps that were alive with innumerable flocks of water-fowl, among which were a few swans, but an endless variety of ducks. 

The river continued a winding course to the east-north-east, nearly amile in width, but too shallow to float even an empty canoe. The countryspread out into a vast level plain, bounded by the horizon alone, excepting to the north, where a line of hills seemed like a longpromontory stretching into the bosom of the ocean. The dreary samenessof the prairie wastes began to grow extremely irksome. The travellerslonged for the sight of a forest, or grove, or single tree, to break thelevel uniformity, and began to notice every object that gave reason tohope they were drawing towards the end of this weary wilderness. Thusthe occurrence of a particular kind of grass was hailed as a proof thatthey could not be far from the bottoms of the Missouri; and they wererejoiced at putting up several prairie hens, a kind of grouse seldomfound far in the interior. In picking up driftwood for fuel, also, theyfound on some pieces the mark of an axe, which caused much speculationas to the time when and the persons by whom the trees had been felled. Thus they went on, like sailors at sea, who perceive in every floatingweed and wandering bird, harbingers of the wished-for land. 

By the close of the month the weather became very mild, and, heavilyburdened as they were, they found the noontide temperature uncomfortablywarm. On the 30th, they came to three deserted hunting camps, either ofPawnees or Ottoes, about which were buffalo skulls in all directions;and the frames on which the hides had been stretched and cured. They hadapparently been occupied the preceding autumn. 

For several days they kept patiently on, watching every sign that mightgive them an idea as to where they were, and how near to the banks ofthe Missouri. 

Though there were numerous traces of hunting parties and encampments, they were not of recent date. The country seemed deserted. The onlyhuman beings they met with were three Pawnee squaws, in a hut in themidst of a deserted camp. Their people had all gone to the south, inpursuit of the buffalo, and had left these poor women behind, being toosick and infirm to travel. 

It is a common practice with the Pawnees, and probably with other rovingtribes, when departing on a distant expedition, which will not admit ofincumbrance or delay, to leave their aged and infirm with a supplyof provisions sufficient for a temporary subsistence. When this isexhausted, they must perish; though sometimes their sufferings areabridged by hostile prowlers who may visit the deserted camp. 

The poor squaws in question expected some such fate at the hands ofthe white strangers, and though the latter accosted them in the kindestmanner, and made them presents of dried buffalo meat, it was impossibleto soothe their alarm, or get any information from them. 

The first landmark by which the travellers were enabled to conjecturetheir position with any degree of confidence, was an island aboutseventy miles in length, which they presumed to be Grand Isle. If so, they were within one hundred and forty miles of the Missouri. They kepton, therefore, With renewed spirit, and at the end of three days metwith an Otto Indian, by whom they were confirmed in their conjecture. They learnt at the same time another piece of information, of anuncomfortable nature. According to his account, there was war betweenthe United States and England, and in fact it had existed for a wholeyear, during which time they had been beyond the reach of all knowledgeof the affairs of the civilized world. 

The Otto conducted the travellers to his village, situated a shortdistance from the banks of the Platte. Here they were delighted to meetwith two white men, Messrs. Dornin and Roi, Indian traders recently fromSt. Louis. Of these they had a thousand inquiries to make concerningall affairs, foreign and domestic, during their year of sepulture in thewilderness; and especially about the events of the existing war. 

They now prepared to abandon their weary travel by land, and to embarkupon the water. A bargain was made with Mr. Dornin, who engaged tofurnish them with a canoe and provisions for the voyage, in exchange fortheir venerable and well-tried fellow traveller, the old Snake horse. 

Accordingly, in a couple of days, the Indians employed by that gentlemanconstructed for them a canoe twenty feet long, four feet wide, andeighteen inches deep. The frame was of poles and willow twigs, on whichwere stretched five elk and buffalo hides, sewed together with sinews, and the seams payed with unctuous mud. In this they embarked at an earlyhour on the 16th of April, and drifted down ten miles with the stream, when the wind being high they encamped, and set to work to make oars, which they had not been able to procure at the Indian village. 

Once more afloat, they went merrily down the stream, and after makingthirty-five miles, emerged into the broad turbid current of theMissouri. Here they were borne along briskly by the rapid stream;though, by the time their fragile bark had floated a couple of hundredmiles, its frame began to show the effects of the voyage. Luckily theycame to the deserted wintering place of some hunting party, where theyfound two old wooden canoes. Taking possession of the largest, theyagain committed themselves to the current, and after dropping downfifty-five miles further, arrived safely at Fort Osage. 

Here they found Lieutenant Brownson still in command; the officer whohad given the expedition a hospitable reception on its way up the river, eighteen months previously. He received this remnant of the party witha cordial welcome, and endeavored in every way to promote their comfortand enjoyment during their sojourn at the fort. The greatest luxury theymet with on their return to the abode of civilized man, was bread, nothaving tasted any for nearly a year. 

Their stay at Fort Osage was but short. On re-embarking they werefurnished with an ample supply of provisions by the kindness ofLieutenant Brownson, and performed the rest of their voyage withoutadverse circumstance. On the 30th of April they arrived in perfecthealth and fine spirits at St. Louis, having been ten months inperforming this perilous expedition from Astoria. Their return causedquite a sensation at the place, bringing the first intelligence of thefortune of Mr. Hunt and his party in their adventurous route acrossthe Rocky Mountains, and of the new establishment on the shores of thePacific. 

CHAPTER LI. 

 Agreement Between Mr. Astor and the Russian Fur Company--War Between the United States and Great Britain. --Instructions to Captain Sowle of the Beaver--Fitting Out of the Lark. -- News of the Arrival of Mr. Stuart. 

IT is now necessary, in linking together the parts of this excursivenarrative, that we notice the proceedings of Mr. Astor in support ofhis great undertaking. His project with respect to the Russianestablishments along the northwest coast had been diligently prosecuted. The agent sent by him to St. Petersburg, to negotiate in his nameas president of the American Fur Company, had, under sanction of theRussian government, made a provisional agreement with the Russiancompany. 

By this agreement, which was ratified by Mr. Astor in 1813, the twocompanies bound themselves not to interfere with each other's tradingand hunting grounds, nor to furnish arms and ammunition to the Indians. They were to act in concert, also, against all interlopers, and tosuccor each other in case of danger. The American company was to havethe exclusive right of supplying the Russian posts with goods andnecessaries, receiving peltries in payment at stated prices. They werealso, if so requested by the Russian governor, to convey the furs of theRussian company to Canton, sell them on commission, and bring backthe proceeds, at such freight as might be agreed on at the time. Thisagreement was to continue in operation four years, and to be renewablefor a similar term, unless some unforeseen contingency should render amodification necessary. 

It was calculated to be of great service to the infant establishmentat Astoria; dispelling the fears of hostile rivalry on the part of theforeign companies in its neighborhood, and giving a formidable blow tothe irregular trade along the coast. It was also the intention of Mr. Astor to have coasting vessels of his own, at Astoria, of small tonnageand draft of water, fitted for coasting service. These, having a placeof shelter and deposit, could ply about the coast in short voyages, in favorable weather, and would have vast advantage over chance ships, which must make long voyages, maintain numerous crews, and could onlyapproach the coast at certain seasons of the year. He hoped, therefore, gradually to make Astoria the great emporium of the American furtrade in the Pacific, and the nucleus of a powerful American state. Unfortunately for these sanguine anticipations, before Mr. Astor hadratified the agreement, as above stated, war broke out between theUnited States and Great Britain. He perceived at once the peril ofthe case. The harbor of New York would doubtless be blockaded, and thedeparture of the annual supply ship in the autumn prevented; or, ifshe should succeed in getting out to sea, she might be captured on hervoyage. 

In this emergency, he wrote to Captain Sowle, commander of the Beaver. The letter, which was addressed to him at Canton, directed him toproceed to the factory at the mouth of the Columbia, with such articlesas the establishment might need; and to remain there, subject to theorders of Mr. Hunt, should that gentleman be in command there. 

The war continued. No tidings had yet been received from Astoria; thedespatches having been delayed by the misadventure of Mr. Reed at thefalls of the Columbia, and the unhorsing of Mr. Stuart by the Crowsamong the mountains. A painful uncertainty, also, prevailed about Mr. Hunt and his party. Nothing had been heard of them since their departurefrom the Arickara village; Lisa, who parted from them there, hadpredicted their destruction; and some of the traders of the NorthwestCompany had actually spread a rumor of their having been cut off by theIndians. 

It was a hard trial of the courage and means of an individual to haveto fit out another costly expedition, where so much had already beenexpended, so much uncertainty prevailed, and where the risk of loss wasso greatly enhanced, that no insurance could be effected. 

In spite of all these discouragements, Mr. Astor determined to sendanother ship to the relief of the settlement. He selected for thispurpose a vessel called the Lark, remarkable for her fast sailing. The disordered state of the times, however, caused such a delay, thatFebruary arrived, while the vessel was yet lingering in port. 

At this juncture, Mr. Astor learnt that the Northwest Company werepreparing to send out an armed ship of twenty guns, called the IsaacTodd, to form an establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. Thesetidings gave him great uneasiness. A considerable proportion of thepersons in his employ were Scotchmen and Canadians, and several of themhad been in the service of the Northwest Company. Should Mr. Hunt havefailed to arrive at Astoria, the whole establishment would be underthe control of Mr. M'Dougal, of whose fidelity he had received verydisparaging accounts from Captain Thorn. The British government, also, might deem it worth while to send a force against the establishment, having been urged to do so some time previously by the NorthwestCompany. 

Under all these circumstances, Mr. Astor wrote to Mr. Monroe, thensecretary of state, requesting protection from the government of theUnited States. He represented the importance of his settlement, ina commercial point of view, and the shelter it might afford to theAmerican vessels in those seas. All he asked was that the Americangovernment would throw forty or fifty men into the fort at hisestablishment, which would be sufficient for its defense until he couldsend reinforcements over land. 

He waited in vain for a reply to this letter, the government, no doubt, being engrossed at the time by an overwhelming crowd of affairs. Themonth of March arrived, and the Lark was ordered by Mr. Astor to put tosea. The officer who was to command her shrunk from his engagement, andin the exigency of the moment, she was given in charge to Mr. Northrup, the mate. Mr. Nicholas G. Ogden, a gentleman on whose talents andintegrity the highest reliance could be placed, sailed as supercargo. The Lark put to sea in the beginning of March, 1813. 

By this opportunity, Mr. Astor wrote to Mr. Hunt, as head of theestablishment at the mouth of the Columbia, for he would not allowhimself to doubt of his welfare. "I always think you are well, " said he, "and that I shall see you again, which Heaven, I hope, will grant. "

He warned him to be on his guard against any attempts to surprise thepost; suggesting the probability of armed hostility on the part of theNorthwest Company, and expressing his indignation at the ungratefulreturns made by that association for his frank and open conduct, andadvantageous overtures. "Were I on the spot, " said he, "and had themanagement of affairs, I would defy them all; but, as it is, everythingdepends upon you and your friends about you. Our enterprise is grand, and deserves success, and I hope in God it will meet it. If my objectwas merely gain of money, I should say, think whether it is best to savewhat we can, and abandon the place; but the very idea is like a daggerto my heart. " This extract is sufficient to show the spirit and theviews which actuated Mr. Astor in this great undertaking. 

Week after week and month after month elapsed, without anything todispel the painful incertitude that hung over every part of thisenterprise. Though a man of resolute spirit, and not easily cast down, the dangers impending over this darling scheme of his ambition, had agradual effect upon the spirits of Mr. Astor. He was sitting one gloomyevening by his window, revolving over the loss of the Tonquin and thefate of her unfortunate crew, and fearing that some equally tragicalcalamity might have befallen the adventurers across the mountains, when the evening newspaper was brought to him. The first paragraph thatcaught his eye, announced the arrival of Mr. Stuart and his party at St. Louis, with intelligence that Mr. Hunt and his companions had effectedtheir perilous expedition to the mouth of the Columbia. This was a gleamof sunshine that for a time dispelled every cloud, and he now lookedforward with sanguine hope to the accomplishment of all his plans. 

CHAPTER LII. 

 Banks of the Wallah-Wallah. --Departure of David Stuart for the Oakinagan. --Mr. Clarke's Route Up Lewis River. -- Chipunnish, or Pierced-Nose Indians--Their Character, Appearance, and Habits. -Thievish Habits. --Laying Up of the Boats. --Post at Pointed Heart and Spokan Rivers. --M'Kenzie, His Route Up the Camoenum. -Bands of Travelling Indians. -- Expedition of Reed to the Caches. --Adventures of Wandering Voyageurs and Trappers. 

THE course of our narrative now takes us back to the regions beyondthe mountains, to dispose of the parties that set out from Astoria, incompany with Mr. Robert Stuart, and whom he left on the banks of theWallah-Wallah. Those parties likewise separated from each other shortlyafter his departure, proceeding to their respective destinations, butagreeing to meet at the mouth of the Wallah-Wallah about the beginningof June in the following year, with such peltries as they shouldhave collected in the winter, so as to convoy each other through thedangerous passes of the Columbia. 

Mr. David Stuart, one of the partners, proceeded with his men to thepost already established by him at the mouth of the Oakinagan; havingfurnished this with goods and ammunition, he proceeded three hundredmiles up that river, where he established another post in a good tradingneighborhood. 

Mr. Clarke, another partner, conducted his little band up Lewis Riverto the mouth of a small stream coming in from the north, to whichthe Canadians gave the name of the Pavion. Here he found a village orencampment of forty huts or tents, covered with mats, and inhabited byNez Perces, or Pierced-nose Indians, as they are called by the traders;but Chipunnish, as they are called by themselves. They are a hardy, laborious, and somewhat knavish race, who lead a precarious life, fishing and digging roots during the summer and autumn, hunting the deeron snow-shoes during the winter, and traversing the Rocky Mountains inthe spring, to trade for buffalo skins with the hunting tribes of theMissouri. In these migrations they are liable to be waylaid and attackedby the Blackfeet, and other warlike and predatory tribes, and drivenback across the mountains with the loss of their horses, and of many oftheir comrades. 

A life of this unsettled and precarious kind is apt to render manselfish, and such Mr. Clarke found the inhabitants of this village, who were deficient in the usual hospitality of Indians; parting witheverything with extreme reluctance, and showing no sensibility to anyact of kindness. At the time of his arrival, they were all occupied incatching and curing salmon. The men were stout, robust, active, and goodlooking, and the women handsomer than those of the tribes nearer to thecoast. 

It was the plan of Mr. Clarke to lay up his boats here, and proceed byland to his place of destination, which was among the Spokan tribeof Indians, about a hundred and fifty miles distant. He accordinglyendeavored to purchase horses for the journey, but in this he had tocontend with the sordid disposition of these people. They asked highprices for their horses, and were so difficult to deal with, that Mr. Clarke was detained seven days among them before he could procurea sufficient number. During that time he was annoyed by repeatedpilferings, for which he could get no redress. The chief promised torecover the stolen articles; but failed to do so, alleging that thethieves belonged to a distant tribe, and had made off with their booty. With this excuse Mr. Clarke was fain to content himself, though he laidup in his heart a bitter grudge against the whole Pierced-nose race, which it will be found he took occasion subsequently to gratify in asignal manner. 

Having made arrangements for his departure, Mr. Clarke laid up his bargeand canoes in a sheltered place, on the banks of a small bay, overgrownwith shrubs and willows, confiding them to the care of the Nez Percechief, who, on being promised an ample compensation, engaged to have aguardian eye upon them; then mounting his steed, and putting himselfat the head of his little caravan, he shook the dust off his feet as heturned his back upon this village of rogues and hard dealers. We shallnot follow him minutely in his journey; which lay at times over steepand rocky hills, and among crags and precipices; at other timesover vast naked and sunburnt plains, abounding with rattlesnakes, intraversing which, both men and horses suffered intolerably from heat andthirst. The place on which he fixed for a trading post, was a fine pointof land, at the junction of the Pointed Heart and Spokan Rivers. His establishment was intended to compete with a trading post of theNorthwest Company, situated at no great distance, and to rival it inthe trade with the Spokan Indians; as well as with the Cootonais andFlatheads. In this neighborhood we shall leave him for the present. 

Mr. M'Kenzie, who conducted the third party from the Wallah-Wallah, navigated for several days up the south branch of the Columbia, namedthe Camoenum by the natives, but commonly called Lewis River, in honorof the first explorer. Wandering bands of various tribes were seen alongthis river, travelling in various directions; for the Indians generallyare restless, roving beings, continually intent on enterprises of war, traffic, and hunting. Some of these people were driving large gangs ofhorses, as if to a distant market. Having arrived at the mouth of theShahaptan, he ascended some distance up that river, and established histrading post upon its banks. This appeared to be a great thoroughfarefor the tribes from the neighborhood of the Falls of the Columbia, intheir expeditions to make war upon the tribes of the Rocky Mountains; tohunt buffalo on the plains beyond, or to traffic for roots and buffalorobes. It was the season of migration, and the Indians from variousdistant parts were passing and repassing in great numbers. 

Mr. M'Kenzie now detached a small band, under the conduct of Mr. JohnReed, to visit the caches made by Mr. Hunt at the Caldron Linn, and tobring the contents to his post; as he depended, in some measure, on themfor his supplies of goods and ammunition. They had not been gone a week, when two Indians arrived of the Pallatapalla tribe, who live upon ariver of the same name. These communicated the unwelcome intelligencethat the caches had been robbed. They said that some of their tribe had, in the course of the preceding spring, been across the mountains, whichseparated them from Snake River, and had traded horses with the Snakesin exchange for blankets, robes and goods of various descriptions. Thesearticles the Snakes had procured from caches to which they were guidedby some white men who resided among them, and who afterwards accompaniedthem across the Rocky Mountains. This intelligence was extremelyperplexing to Mr. M'Kenzie, but the truth of part of it was confirmedby the two Indians, who brought them an English saddle and bridle, whichwas recognized as having belonged to Mr. Crooks. The perfidy of thewhite men who revealed the secret of the caches, was, however, perfectlyinexplicable. We shall presently account for it in narrating theexpedition of Mr. Reed. 

That worthy Hibernian proceeded on his mission with his usual alacrity. His forlorn travels of the preceding winter had made him acquainted withthe topography of the country, and he reached Snake River without anymaterial difficulty. Here, in an encampment of the natives, he met withsix white men, wanderers from the main expedition of Mr. Hunt, who, after having had their respective shares of adventures and mishaps, had fortunately come together at this place. Three of these men wereTurcotte, La Chapelle, and Francis Landry; the three Canadian voyageurswho, it may be recollected, had left Mr. Crooks in February, in theneighborhood of Snake River, being dismayed by the increasing hardshipsof the journey, and fearful of perishing of hunger. They had returned toa Snake encampment, where they passed the residue of the winter. 

Early in the spring, being utterly destitute, and in great extremity, and having worn out the hospitality of the Snakes, they determined toavail themselves of the buried treasures within their knowledge. Theyaccordingly informed the Snake chieftains that they knew where a greatquantity of goods had been left in caches, enough to enrich the wholetribe; and offered to conduct them to the place, on condition of beingrewarded with horses and provisions. The chieftains pledged their faithand honor as great men and Snakes, and the three Canadians conductedthem to the place of deposit at the Caldron Linn. This is the way thatthe savages got knowledge of the caches, and not by following the tracksof wolves, as Mr. Stuart had supposed. Never did money diggers turn up amiser's hoard with more eager delight, than did the savages lay openthe treasures of the caches. Blankets and robes, brass trinkets and bluebeads were drawn forth with chuckling exultation, and long strips ofscarlet cloth produced yells of ecstasy. 

The rifling of the caches effected a change in the fortunes anddeportment of the whole party. The Snakes were better clad and equippedthan ever were Snakes before, and the three Canadians, suddenly findingthemselves with horse to ride and weapon to wear, were like beggarson horseback, ready to ride on any wild scamper. An opportunity soonpresented. The Snakes determined on a hunting match on the buffaloprairies, to lay in a supply of beef, that they might live in plenty, as became men of their improved condition. The three newly mountedcavaliers, must fain accompany them. They all traversed the RockyMountains in safety, descended to the head waters of the Missouri, andmade great havoc among the buffaloes. 

Their hunting camp was full of meat; they were gorging themselves, like true Indians, with present plenty, and drying and jerking greatquantities for a winter's supply. In the midst of their revelry and goodcheer, the camp was surprised by the Blackfeet. Several of the Snakeswere slain on the spot; the residue, with their three Canadian allies, fled to the mountains, stripped of horses, buffalo meat, everything; andmade their way back to the old encampment on Snake River, poorer thanever, but esteeming themselves fortunate in having escaped with theirlives. They had not been long there when the Canadians were cheered bythe sight of a companion in misfortune, Dubreull, the poor voyageur whohad left Mr. Crooks in March, being too much exhausted to keep on withhim. Not long afterwards, three other straggling members of the mainexpedition made their appearance. These were Carson, St. Michael, andPierre Delaunay, three of the trappers who, in company with PierreDetaye, had been left among the mountains by Mr. Hunt, to trap beaver, in the preceding month of September. They had departed from the mainbody well armed and provided, with horses to ride, and horses to carrythe peltries they were to collect. They came wandering into the Snakecamp as ragged and destitute as their predecessors. It appears that theyhad finished their trapping, and were making their way in the spring tothe Missouri, when they were met and attacked by a powerful band of theall-pervading Crows. They made a desperate resistance, and killed sevenof the savages, but were overpowered by numbers. Pierre Detaye wasslain, the rest were robbed of horses and effects, and obliged to turnback, when they fell in with their old companions as already mentioned. 

We should observe, that at the heels of Pierre Delaunay came dragglingan Indian wife, whom he had picked up in his wanderings; having grownweary of celibacy among the savages. 

The whole seven of this forlorn fraternity of adventurers, thusaccidentally congregated on the banks of Snake River, were makingarrangements once more to cross the mountains, when some Indian scoutsbrought word of the approach of the little band headed by John Reed. 

The latter, having heard the several stories of these wanderers, tookthem all into his party, and set out for the Caldron Linn, to clear outtwo or three of the caches which had not been revealed to the Indians. 

At that place he met with Robinson, the Kentucky veteran, who, with histwo comrades, Rezner and Hoback, had remained there when Mr. Stuart wenton. This adventurous trio had been trapping higher up the river, butRobinson had come down in a canoe, to await the expected arrival of theparty, and obtain horses and equipments. He told Reed the story ofthe robbery of his party by the Arapahays, but it differed, in someparticulars, from the account given by him to Mr. Stuart. In that, hehad represented Cass as having shamefully deserted his companions intheir extremity, carrying off with him a horse; in the one now given, he spoke of him as having been killed in the affray with the Arapahays. This discrepancy, of which, of course, Reed could have had no knowledgeat the time, concurred with other circumstances, to occasion afterwardssome mysterious speculations and dark surmises as to the real fateof Cass; but as no substantial grounds were ever adduced for them, weforbear to throw any deeper shades into this story of sufferings in thewilderness. 

Mr. Reed, having gathered the remainder of the goods from the caches, put himself at the head of his party, now augmented by the seven menthus casually picked up, and the squaw of Pierre Delaunay, and made hisway successfully to M'Kenzie's Post, on the waters of the Shahaptan. 

CHAPTER LIII. 

 Departure of Mr. Hunt in the Beaver--Precautions at the Factory. -Detachment to the Wollamut. --Gloomy Apprehensions. -- Arrival of M'Kenzie. --Affairs at the Shahaptan. --News of War. --Dismay of M'Dougal. -Determination to Abandon Astoria. -- Departure of M'Kenzie for the Interior. --Adventure at the Rapids. --Visit to the Ruffians of Wish-ram. --A Perilous Situation. --Meeting With M'Tavish and His Party. --Arrival at the Shahaptan. --Plundered Caches. -Determination of the Wintering Partners Not to Leave the Country. --Arrival of Clarke Among the Nez Perces. --The Affair of the Silver Goblet. --Hanging of An Indian. --Arrival of the Wintering Partners at Astoria. 

AFTER the departure of the different detachments, or brigades, as theyare called by the fur traders, the Beaver prepared for her voyage alongthe coast, and her visit to the Russian establishment, at New Archangel, where she was to carry supplies. It had been determined in the councilof partners at Astoria, that Mr. Hunt should embark in this vessel, for the purpose of acquainting himself with the coasting trade, and ofmaking arrangements with the commander of the Russian post, and that heshould be re-landed in October, at Astoria, by the Beaver, on her way tothe Sandwich Islands and Canton. 

The Beaver put to sea in the month of August. Her departure and thatof the various brigades, left the fortress of Astoria but slightlygarrisoned. This was soon perceived by some of the Indian tribes, andthe consequence was increased insolence of deportment, and a dispositionto hostility. It was now the fishing season, when the tribes from thenorthern coast drew into the neighborhood of the Columbia. These werewarlike and perfidious in their dispositions; and noted for theirattempts to surprise trading ships. Among them were numbers of theNeweetees, the ferocious tribe that massacred the crew of the Tonquin. 

Great precautions, therefore, were taken at the factory, to guardagainst surprise while these dangerous intruders were in the vicinity. Galleries were constructed inside of the palisades; the bastions wereheightened, and sentinels were posted day and night. Fortunately, theChinooks and other tribes resident in the vicinity manifested the mostpacific disposition. Old Comcomly, who held sway over them, was a shrewdcalculator. He was aware of the advantages of having the whites asneighbors and allies, and of the consequence derived to himself and hispeople from acting as intermediate traders between them and the distanttribes. He had, therefore, by this time, become a firm friend of theAstorians, and formed a kind of barrier between them and the hostileintruders from the north. 

The summer of 1812 passed away without any of the hostilities that hadbeen apprehended; the Neweetees, and other dangerous visitors to theneighborhood, finished their fishing and returned home, and the inmatesof the factory once more felt secure from attack. 

It now became necessary to guard against other evils. The season ofscarcity arrived, which commences in October, and lasts until the endof January. To provide for the support of the garrison, the shallop wasemployed to forage about the shores of the river. A number of the men, also, under the command of some of the clerks, were sent to quarterthemselves on the banks of the Wollamut (the Multnomah of Lewis andClarke), a fine river which disembogues itself into the Columbia, aboutsixty miles above Astoria. The country bordering on the river is finelydiversified with prairies and hills, and forests of oak, ash, maple, and cedar. It abounded, at that time, with elk and deer, and the streamswere well stocked with beaver. Here the party, after supplying their ownwants, were enabled to pack up quantities of dried meat, and send it bycanoes to Astoria. 

The month of October elapsed without the return of the Beaver. November, December, January, passed away, and still nothing was seen or heard ofher. Gloomy apprehensions now began to be entertained: she might havebeen wrecked in the course of her coasting voyage, or surprised, likethe Tonquin, by some of the treacherous tribes of the north. 

No one indulged more in these apprehensions than M'Dougal, who hadnow the charge of the establishment. He no longer evinced the bustlingconfidence and buoyancy which once characterized him. Command seemed tohave lost its charms for him, or rather, he gave way to the most abjectdespondency, decrying the whole enterprise, magnifying every untowardcircumstance, and foreboding nothing but evil. 

While in this moody state, he was surprised, on the 16th of January, bythe sudden appearance of M'Kenzie, wayworn and weather-beaten by a longwintry journey from his post on the Shahaptan, and with a face the veryfrontispiece for a volume of misfortune. M'Kenzie had been heartilydisgusted and disappointed at his post. It was in the midst of theTushepaws, a powerful and warlike nation, divided into many tribes, under different chiefs, who possessed innumerable horses, but, nothaving turned their attention to beaver trapping, had no furs to offer. According to M'Kenzie, they were but a "rascally tribe;" from which wemay infer that they were prone to consult their own interests more thancomported with the interests of a greedy Indian trader. 

Game being scarce, he was obliged to rely, for the most part, on horse-flesh for subsistence, and the Indians discovering hisnecessities, adopted a policy usual in civilized trade, and raised theprice of horses to an exorbitant rate, knowing that he and his men musteat or die. In this way, the goods he had brought to trade for beaverskins, were likely to be bartered for horseflesh, and all the proceedsdevoured upon the spot. 

He had despatched trappers in various directions, but the country arounddid not offer more beaver than his own station. In this emergency hebegan to think of abandoning his unprofitable post, sending his goodsto the posts of Clarke and David Stuart, who could make a better useof them, as they were in a good beaver country, and returning with hisparty to Astoria, to seek some better destination. With this view herepaired to the post of Mr. Clarke, to hold a consultation. While thetwo partners were in conference in Mr. Clarke's wigwam, an unexpectedvisitor came bustling in upon them. 

This was Mr. John George M'Tavish, a partner of the NorthwestCompany, who had charge of the rival trading posts established in thatneighborhood. Mr. M'Tavish was the delighted messenger of bad news. Hehad been to Lake Winnipeg, where he received an express from Canada, containing the declaration of war, and President Madison's proclamation, which he handed with the most officious complaisance to Messrs. Clarkeand M'Kenzie. He moreover told them that he had received a freshsupply of goods from the Northwest posts on the other side of the RockyMountains, and was prepared for vigorous opposition to the establishmentof the American Company. He capped the climax of this obliging butbelligerent intelligence, by informing them that the armed ship, IsaacTodd, was to be at the mouth of the Columbia about the beginning ofMarch, to get possession of the trade of the river, and that he wasordered to join her there at that time. 

The receipt of this news determined M'Kenzie. He immediately returned tothe Shahaptan, broke up his establishment, deposited his goods in cache, and hastened with all his people to Astoria. 

The intelligence thus brought, completed the dismay of M'Dougal, andseemed to produce a complete confusion of mind. He held a council of warwith M'Kenzie, at which some of the clerks were present, but of coursehad no votes. They gave up all hope of maintaining their post atAstoria. The Beaver had probably been lost; they could receive noaid from the United States, as all the ports would be blockaded. FromEngland nothing could be expected but hostility. It was determined, therefore, to abandon the establishment in the course of the followingspring, and return across the Rocky Mountains. In pursuance of thisresolution, they suspended all trade with the natives, except forprovisions, having already more peltries than they could carry away, andhaving need of all the goods for the clothing and subsistence of theirpeople, during the remainder of their sojourn, and on their journeyacross the mountains, This intention of abandoning Astoria was, however, kept secret from the men, lest they should at once give up all labor, and become restless and insubordinate. 

In the meantime, M'Kenzie set off for his post at the Shahaptan, to gethis goods from the caches, and buy horses and provisions with them forthe caravan across the mountains. He was charged with despatches fromM'Dougal to Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, appraising them of the intendedmigration, that they might make timely preparations. 

M'Kenzie was accompanied by two of the clerks, Mr. John Reed, theIrishman, and Mr. Alfred Seton, of New York. They embarked in twocanoes, manned by seventeen men, and ascended the river without anyincident of importance, until they arrived in the eventful neighborhoodof the rapids. They made the portage of the narrows and the falls earlyin the afternoon, and, having partaken of a scanty meal, had now a longevening on their hands. 

On the opposite side of the river lay the village of Wish-ram, offreebooting renown. Here lived the savages who had robbed and maltreatedReed, when bearing his tin box of despatches. It was known that therifle of which he was despoiled was retained as a trophy at the village. M'Kenzie offered to cross the river, and demand the rifle, if any onewould accompany him. It was a hare-brained project, for these villageswere noted for the ruffian character of their inhabitants; yet twovolunteers promptly stepped forward; Alfred Seton, the clerk, and Joede la Pierre, the cook. The trio soon reached the opposite side of theriver. On landing, they freshly primed their rifles and pistols. A pathwinding for about a hundred yards among rocks and crags, led to thevillage. No notice seemed to be taken of their approach. Not a solitarybeing, man, woman, or child, greeted them. 

The very dogs, those noisy pests of an Indian town, kept silence. Onentering the village, a boy made his appearance, and pointed to a houseof larger dimensions than the rest. They had to stoop to enter it; assoon as they had passed the threshold, the narrow passage behind themwas filled up by a sudden rush of Indians, who had before kept out ofsight. 

M'Kenzie and his companions found themselves in a rude chamber of abouttwenty-five feet long and twenty wide. A bright fire was blazing at oneend, near which sat the chief, about sixty years old. A large number ofIndians, wrapped in buffalo robes, were squatted in rows, three deep, forming a semicircle round three sides of the room. A single glancearound sufficed to show them the grim and dangerous assembly into whichthey had intruded, and that all retreat was cut off by the mass whichblocked up the entrance. 

The chief pointed to the vacant side of the room opposite to the door, and motioned for them to take their seats. They complied. A dead pauseensued. The grim warriors around sat like statues; each muffled in hisrobe, with his fierce eyes bent on the intruders. The latter felt theywere in a perilous predicament. 

"Keep your eyes on the chief while I am addressing him, " said M'Kenzieto his companions. "Should he give any sign to his band, shoot him, andmake for the door. "

M'Kenzie advanced, and offered the pipe of peace to the chief, but itwas refused. He then made a regular speech, explaining the objectof their visit, and proposing to give in exchange for the rifle twoblankets, an axe, some beads and tobacco. 

When he had done, the chief rose, began to address him in a low voice, but soon became loud and violent, and ended by working himself up into afurious passion. He upbraided the white men for their sordid conduct inpassing and repassing through their neighborhood, without giving them ablanket or any other article of goods, merely because they had no fursto barter in exchange, and he alluded, with menaces of vengeance, to thedeath of the Indian killed by the whites in the skirmish at the falls. 

Matters were verging to a crisis. It was evident the surrounding savageswere only waiting a signal from the chief to spring upon their prey. M'Kenzie and his companions had gradually risen on their feet duringthe speech, and had brought their rifles to a horizontal position, thebarrels resting in their left hands; the muzzle of M'Kenzie's piece waswithin three feet of the speaker's heart. They cocked their rifles; theclick of the locks for a moment suffused the dark cheek of the savage, and there was a pause. They coolly, but promptly, advanced to the door;the Indians fell back in awe, and suffered them to pass. The sun wasjust setting, as they emerged from this dangerous den. They took theprecaution to keep along the tops of the rocks as much as possibleon their way back to the canoe, and reached their camp in safety, congratulating themselves on their escape, and feeling no desire to makea second visit to the grim warriors of Wish-ram. 

M'Kenzie and his party resumed their journey the next morning. At somedistance above the falls of the Columbia, they observed two bark canoes, filled with white men, coming down the river, to the full chant of aset of Canadian voyageurs. A parley ensued. It was a detachment ofNorthwesters, under the command of Mr. John George M'Tavish, bound, fullof song and spirit, to the mouth of the Columbia, to await the arrivalof the Isaac Todd. 

Mr. M'Kenzie and M'Tavish came to a halt, and landing, encamped for thenight. The voyageurs of either party hailed each other as brothers, andold "comrades, " and they mingled together as if united by one commoninterest, instead of belonging to rival companies, and trading underhostile flags. 

In the morning they proceeded on their different ways, in stylecorresponding to their different fortunes: the one toiling painfullyagainst the stream, the other sweeping down gayly with the Current. 

M'Kenzie arrived safely at his deserted post on the Shahaptan, butfound, to his chagrin, that his caches had been discovered and rifled bythe Indians. Here was a dilemma, for on the stolen goods he had dependedto purchase horses of the Indians. He sent out men in all directions toendeavor to discover the thieves, and despatched Mr. Reed to the postsof Messrs. Clarke and David Stuart, with the letters of Mr. M'Dougal. 

The resolution announced in these letters, to break up and depart fromAstoria, was condemned by both Clarke and Stuart. These two gentlemenhad been very successful at their posts, and considered it rash andpusillanimous to abandon, on the first difficulty, an enterprise of suchgreat cost and ample promise. They made no arrangements, therefore, forleaving the country, but acted with a view to the maintenance of theirnew and prosperous establishments. 

The regular time approached, when the partners of the interior--postswere to rendezvous at the mouth of the Wallah-Wallah, on their way toAstoria, with the peltries they had collected. Mr. Clarke accordinglypacked all his furs on twenty-eight horses, and, leaving a clerk andfour men to take charge of the post, departed on the 25th of May withthe residue of his force. 

On the 30th, he arrived at the confluence of the Pavion and Lewisrivers, where he had left his barge and canoes, in the guardianship ofthe old Pierced-nosed chieftain. That dignitary had acquitted himselfmore faithfully to his charge than Mr. Clarke had expected, and thecanoes were found in very tolerable order. Some repairs were necessary, and, while they were making, the party encamped close by the village. Having had repeated and vexatious proofs of the pilfering propensitiesof this tribe during his former visit, Mr. Clarke ordered that a waryeye should be kept upon them. 

He was a tall, good-looking man, and somewhat given to pomp andcircumstance, which made him an object of note in the eyes of thewondering savages. He was stately, too, in his appointments, and hada silver goblet or drinking cup, out of which he would drink witha magnificent air, and then lock it up in a large garde vin, whichaccompanied him in his travels, and stood in his tent. This goblethad originally been sent as a present from Mr. Astor to Mr. M'Kay, the partner who had unfortunately been blown up in the Tonquin. As itreached Astoria after the departure of that gentleman, it had remainedin the possession of Mr. Clarke. 

A silver goblet was too glittering a prize not to catch the eye of aPierced-nose. It was like the shining tin case of John Reed. Such awonder had never been seen in the land before. The Indians talked aboutit to one another. They marked the care with which it was deposited inthe garde vin, like a relic in its shrine, and concluded that it mustbe a "great medicine. " That night Mr. Clarke neglected to lock up histreasure; in the morning the sacred casket was open--the precious relicgone!

Clarke was now outrageous. All the past vexations that he had sufferedfrom this pilfering community rose to mind, and he threatened that, unless the goblet was promptly returned, he would hang the thief, shouldhe eventually discover him. The day passed away, however, without therestoration of the cup. At night sentinels were secretly posted aboutthe camp. With all their vigilance, a Pierced-nose contrived to get intothe camp unperceived, and to load himself with booty; it was only on hisretreat that he was discovered and taken. 

At daybreak the culprit was brought to trial, and promptly convicted. He stood responsible for all the spoliations of the camp, the preciousgoblet among the number, and Mr. Clarke passed sentence of death uponhim. 

A gibbet was accordingly constructed of oars; the chief of the villageand his people were assembled, and the culprit was produced, with hislegs and arms pinioned. Clarke then made a harangue. He reminded thetribe of the benefits he had bestowed upon them during his formervisits, and the many thefts and other misdeeds which he had overlooked. The prisoner, especially, had always been peculiarly well treated bythe white men, but had repeatedly been guilty of pilfering. He was to bepunished for his own misdeeds, and as a warning to his tribe. 

The Indians now gathered round Mr. Clarke, and interceded for theculprit. They were willing he should be punished severely, but imploredthat his life might be spared. The companions, too, of Mr. Clarke, considered the sentence too severe, and advised him to mitigate it; buthe was inexorable. He was not naturally a stern or cruel man; but fromhis boyhood he had lived in the Indian country among Indian traders, and held the life of a savage extremely cheap. He was, moreover, a firmbeliever in the doctrine of intimidation. 

Farnham, a clerk, a tall "Green Mountain boy" from Vermont, who had beenrobbed of a pistol, acted as executioner. The signal was given, andthe poor Pierced-nose resisting, struggling, and screaming, in the mostfrightful manner, was launched into eternity. The Indians stood roundgazing in silence and mute awe, but made no attempt to oppose theexecution, nor testified any emotion when it was over. They locked uptheir feelings within their bosoms until an opportunity should arrive togratify them with a bloody act of vengeance. 

To say nothing of the needless severity of this act, its impolicy wasglaringly obvious. Mr. M'Lennan and three men were to return to the postwith the horses, their loads having been transferred to the canoes. Theywould have to pass through a tract of country infested by this tribe, who were all horsemen and hard riders, and might pursue them to takevengeance for the death of their comrade. M'Lennan, however, was aresolute fellow, and made light of all dangers. He and his three menwere present at the execution, and set off as soon as life was extinctin the victim; but, to use the words of one of their comrades, "theydid not let the grass grow under the heels of their horses, as theyclattered out of the Pierced-nose country, " and were glad to findthemselves in safety at the post. 

Mr. Clarke and his party embarked about the same time in their canoes, and early on the following day reached the mouth of the Wallah-Wallah, where they found Messrs. Stuart and M'Kenzie awaiting them; the latterhaving recovered part of the goods stolen from his cache. Clarkeinformed them of the signal punishment he had inflicted on thePierced-nose, evidently expecting to excite their admiration by such ahardy act of justice, performed in the very midst of the Indiancountry, but was mortified at finding it strongly censured as inhuman, unnecessary, and likely to provoke hostilities. 

The parties thus united formed a squadron of two boats and six canoes, with which they performed their voyage in safety down the river, andarrived at Astoria on the 12th of June, bringing with them a valuablestock of peltries. 

About ten days previously, the brigade which had been quartered on thebanks of the Wollamut, had arrived with numerous packs of beaver, theresult of a few months' sojourn on that river. These were the firstfruits of the enterprise, gathered by men as yet mere strangers in theland; but they were such as to give substantial grounds for sanguineanticipations of profit, when the country should be more completelyexplored, and the trade established. 

CHAPTER LIV. 

 The Partners Displeased With M'Dougal. --Equivocal Conduct of That Gentleman--Partners Agree to Abandon Astoria. --Sale of Goods to M'Tavish. --Arrangements for the Year. --Manifesto Signed by the Partners--Departure of M'Tavish for the Interior. 

THE partners found Mr. M'Dougal in all the bustle of preparation; havingabout nine days previously announced at the factory, his intention ofbreaking up the establishment, and fixed upon the 1st of July for thetime of departure. Messrs. Stuart and Clarke felt highly displeased athis taking so precipitate a step, without waiting for their concurrence, when he must have known that their arrival could not be far distant. 

Indeed, the whole conduct of Mr. M'Dougal was such as to awaken strongdoubts as to his loyal devotion to the cause. His old sympathies withthe Northwest Company seem to have revived. He had received M'Tavish andhis party with uncalled for hospitality, as though they were friends andallies, instead of being a party of observation, come to reconnoitre thestate of affairs at Astoria, and to await the arrival of a hostile ship. Had they been left to themselves, they would have been starved off forwant of provisions, or driven away by the Chinooks, who only wanteda signal from the factory to treat them as intruders and enemies. M'Dougal, on the contrary, had supplied them from the stores of thegarrison, and had gained them the favor of the Indians, by treating themas friends. 

Having set his mind fixedly on the project of breaking up theestablishment at Astoria, in the current year, M'Dougal was sorelydisappointed at finding that Messrs. Stuart and Clarke had omittedto comply with his request to purchase horses and provisions for thecaravan across the mountains. It was now too late to make the necessarypreparations in time for traversing the mountains before winter, and theproject had to be postponed. 

In the meantime, the non-arrival of the annual ship, and theapprehensions entertained of the loss of the Beaver and of Mr. Hunt, hadtheir effect upon the minds of Messrs. Stuart and Clarke. They beganto listen to the desponding representations of M'Dougal, secondedby M'Kenzie, who inveighed against their situation as desperate andforlorn; left to shift for themselves, or perish upon a barbarous coast;neglected by those who sent them there; and threatened with dangersof every kind. In this way they were brought to consent to the plan ofabandoning the country in the ensuing year. 

About this time, M'Tavish applied at the factory to purchase a smallsupply of goods wherewith to trade his way back to his post on the upperwaters of the Columbia, having waited in vain for the arrival of theIsaac Todd. His request brought on a consultation among the partners. M'Dougal urged that it should be complied with. He furthermore proposed, that they should give up to M'Tavish, for a proper consideration, thepost on the Spokan, and all its dependencies, as they had not sufficientgoods on hand to supply that post themselves, and to keep up acompetition with the Northwest Company in the trade with the neighboringIndians. This last representation has since been proved incorrect. Byinventories, it appears that their stock in hand for the supply of theinterior posts, was superior to that of the Northwest Company; so thatthey had nothing to fear from competition. 

Through the influence of Messrs. M'Dougal and M'Kenzie, this propositionwas adopted, and was promptly accepted by M'Tavish. The merchandise soldto him amounted to eight hundred and fifty-eight dollars, to be paidfor, in the following spring, in horses, or in any other manner mostacceptable to the partners at that period. 

This agreement being concluded, the partners formed their plans forthe year that they would yet have to pass in the country. Their objectswere, chiefly, present subsistence, and the purchase of horses forthe contemplated journey, though they were likewise to collect as muchpeltries as their diminished means would command. Accordingly, it wasarranged that David Stuart should return to his former post on theOakinagan, and Mr. Clarke should make his sojourn among the Flatheads. John Reed, the sturdy Hibernian, was to undertake the Snake Rivercountry, accompanied by Pierre Dorion and Pierre Delaunay, as hunters, and Francis Landry, Jean Baptiste Turcotte, Andre la Chapelle, andGilles le Clerc, Canadian voyageurs. 

Astoria, however, was the post about which they felt the greatestsolicitude, and on which they all more or less depended. The maintenanceof this in safety throughout the coming year, was, therefore, theirgrand consideration. Mr. M'Dougal was to continue in command of it, with a party of forty men. They would have to depend chiefly upon theneighboring savages for their subsistence. These, at present, werefriendly, but it was to be feared that, when they should discover theexigencies of the post, and its real weakness, they might proceedto hostilities; or, at any rate, might cease to furnish theirusual supplies. It was important, therefore, to render the place asindependent as possible, of the surrounding tribes for its support; andit was accordingly resolved that M'Kenzie, with four hunters, and eightcommon men, should winter in the abundant country of Wollamut, fromwhence they might be enabled to furnish a constant supply of provisionsto Astoria. 

As there was too great a proportion of clerks for the number of privatesin the service, the engagements of three of them, Ross Cox, Ross, and M'Lennan, were surrendered to them, and they immediately enrolledthemselves in the service of the Northwest Company; glad, no doubt, toescape from what they considered a sinking ship. 

Having made all these arrangements, the four partners, on the first ofJuly, signed a formal manifesto, stating the alarming state of theiraffairs, from the non-arrival of the annual ship, and the absence andapprehended loss of the Beaver, their want of goods, their despair ofreceiving any further supply, their ignorance of the coast, and theirdisappointment as to the interior trade, which they pronounced unequalto the expenses incurred, and incompetent to stand against the powerfulopposition of the Northwest Company. And as by the 16th article of thecompany's agreement, they were authorized to abandon this undertaking, and dissolve the concern, if before the period of five years it shouldbe found unprofitable, they now formally announced their intention todo so on the 1st day of June, of the ensuing year, unless in the interimthey should receive the necessary support and supplies from Mr. Astor, or the stockholders, with orders to continue. 

This instrument, accompanied by private letters of similar import, wasdelivered to Mr. M'Tavish, who departed on the 5th of July. He engagedto forward the despatches to Mr. Astor, by the usual winter express sentoverland by the Northwest Company. 

The manifesto was signed with great reluctance by Messrs. Clarke and D. Stuart, whose experience by no means justified the discouragingaccount given in it of the internal trade, and who considered themain difficulties of exploring an unknown and savage country, and ofascertaining the best trading and trapping grounds, in a great measureovercome. They were overruled, however, by the urgent instancesof M'Dougal and M'Kenzie, who, having resolved upon abandoning theenterprise, were desirous of making as strong a case as possible toexcuse their conduct to Mr. Astor and to the world. 

CHAPTER LV. 

 Anxieties of Mr. Astor. --Memorial of the Northwest Company-- Tidings of a British Naval Expedition Against Astoria. --Mr. Astor Applies to Government for Protection. --The Frigate Adams Ordered to be Fitted Out. --Bright News From Astoria. -- Sunshine Suddenly Overclouded. 

WHILE difficulties and disasters had been gathering about the infantsettlement of Astoria, the mind of its projector at New York was a preyto great anxiety. The ship Lark, despatched by him with supplies forthe establishment, sailed on the 6th of March, 1813. Within afortnight afterwards, he received intelligence which justified all hisapprehensions of hostility on the part of the British. The NorthwestCompany had made a second memorial to that government, representingAstoria as an American establishment, stating the vast scope of itscontemplated operations, magnifying the strength of its fortifications, and expressing their fears that, unless crushed in the bud, it wouldeffect the downfall of their trade. 

Influenced by these representations, the British government orderedthe frigate Phoebe to be detached as a convoy for the armed ship, IsaacTodd, which was ready to sail with men and munitions for forming anew establishment. They were to proceed together to the mouth of theColumbia, capture or destroy whatever American fortress they should findthere, and plant the British flag on its ruins. 

Informed of these movements, Mr. Astor lost no time in addressinga second letter to the secretary of state, communicating thisintelligence, and requesting it might be laid before the President; asno notice, however, had been taken of his previous letter, he contentedhimself with this simple communication, and made no further applicationfor aid. 

Awakened now to the danger that menaced the establishment at Astoria, and aware of the importance of protecting this foothold of Americancommerce and empire on the shores of the Pacific, the governmentdetermined to send the frigate Adams, Captain Crane, upon this service. On hearing of this determination, Mr. Astor immediately proceeded tofit out a ship called the Enterprise, to sail in company with the Adams, freighted with additional supplies and reinforcements for Astoria. 

About the middle of June, while in the midst of these preparations, Mr. Astor received a letter from Mr. R. Stuart, dated St. Louis, May1st, confirming the intelligence already received through the publicnewspapers, of his safe return, and of the arrival of Mr. Hunt andhis party at Astoria, and giving the most flattering accounts of theprosperity of the enterprise. 

So deep had been the anxiety of Mr. Astor, for the success of thisobject of his ambition, that this gleam of good news was almostoverpowering. "I felt ready, " said he, "to fall upon my knees in atransport of gratitude. "

At the same time he heard that the Beaver had made good her voyage fromNew York to the Columbia. This was additional ground of hope forthe welfare of the little colony. The post being thus relieved andstrengthened, with an American at its head, and a ship of war aboutto sail for its protection, the prospect for the future seemed full ofencouragement, and Mr. Astor proceeded with fresh vigor to fit out hismerchant ship. 

Unfortunately for Astoria, this bright gleam of sunshine was soonoverclouded. Just as the Adams had received her complement of men, andthe two vessels were ready for sea, news came from Commodore Chauncey, commanding on Lake Ontario, that a reinforcement of seamen was wantedin that quarter. The demand was urgent, the crew of the Adams wasimmediately transferred to that service, and the ship was laid up. 

This was a most ill-timed and discouraging blow, but Mr. Astor would notyet allow himself to pause in his undertaking. He determined to sendthe Enterprise to sea alone, and let her take the chance of making herunprotected way across the ocean. Just at this time, however, a Britishforce made its appearance off the Hook; and the port of New York waseffectually blockaded. To send a ship to sea under these circumstances, would be to expose her to almost certain capture. The Enterprise was, therefore, unloaded and dismantled, and Mr. Astor was obliged to comforthimself with the hope that the Lark might reach Astoria in safety and, that, aided by her supplies, and by the good management of Mr. Hunt andhis associates, the little colony might be able to maintain itself untilthe return of peace. 

CHAPTER LVI. 

 Affairs of State at Astoria. --M'Dougal Proposes for the Hand of An Indian Princess--Matrimonial Embassy to Comcomly. -- Matrimonial Notions Among the Chinooks. --Settlements and Pin-Money. --The Bringing Home of the Bride. --A Managing Father-in-Law. --Arrival of Mr. Hunt at Astoria. 

WE have hitherto had so much to relate of a gloomy and disastrousnature, that it is with a feeling of momentary relief we turn tosomething of a more pleasing complexion, and record the first, andindeed only nuptials in high life that took place in the infantsettlement of Astoria. 

M'Dougal, who appears to have been a man of a thousand projects, and ofgreat, though somewhat irregular ambition, suddenly conceived the ideaof seeking the hand of one of the native princesses, a daughter of theone-eyed potentate Comcomly, who held sway over the fishing tribe of theChinooks, and had long supplied the factory with smelts and sturgeons. 

Some accounts give rather a romantic origin to this affair, tracingit to the stormy night when M'Dougal, in the course of an exploringexpedition, was driven by stress of weather to seek shelter in the royalabode of Comcomly. Then and there he was first struck with the charms ofthe piscatory princess, as she exerted herself to entertain her father'sguest. 

The "journal of Astoria, " however, which was kept under his own eye, records this union as a high state alliance, and great stroke of policy. The factory had to depend, in a great measure, on the Chinooks forprovisions. They were at present friendly, but it was to be fearedthey would prove otherwise, should they discover the weakness and theexigencies of the post, and the intention to leave the country. Thisalliance, therefore, would infallibly rivet Comcomly to the interests ofthe Astorians, and with him the powerful tribe of the Chinooks. Be thisas it may, and it is hard to fathom the real policy of governorsand princes, M'Dougal despatched two of the clerks as ambassadorsextraordinary, to wait upon the one-eyed chieftain, and make overturesfor the hand of his daughter. 

The Chinooks, though not a very refined nation, have notions ofmatrimonial arrangements that would not disgrace the most refinedsticklers for settlements and pin-money. The suitor repairs not to thebower of his mistress, but to her father's lodge, and throws down apresent at his feet. His wishes are then disclosed by some discreetfriend employed by him for the purpose. If the suitor and his presentfind favor in the eyes of the father, he breaks the matter to hisdaughter, and inquires into the state of her inclinations. Should heranswer be favorable, the suit is accepted and the lover has to makefurther presents to the father, of horses, canoes, and other valuables, according to the beauty and merits of the bride; looking forward to areturn in kind whenever they shall go to housekeeping. 

We have more than once had occasion to speak of the shrewdness, ofComcomly; but never was it exerted more adroitly than on this occasion. He was a great friend of M'Dougal, and pleased with the idea of havingso distinguished a son-in-law; but so favorable an opportunity ofbenefiting his own fortune was not likely to occur a second time, andhe determined to make the most of it. Accordingly, the negotiation wasprotracted with true diplomatic skill. Conference after conference washeld with the two ambassadors. Comcomly was extravagant in his terms;rating the charms of his daughter at the highest price, and indeed sheis represented as having one of the flattest and most aristocraticalheads in the tribe. At length the preliminaries were all happilyadjusted. On the 20th of July, early in the afternoon, a squadron ofcanoes crossed over from the village of the Chinooks, bearing the royalfamily of Comcomly, and all his court. 

That worthy sachem landed in princely state, arrayed in a bright blueblanket and red breech clout, with an extra quantity of paint andfeathers, attended by a train of half-naked warriors and nobles. A horsewas in waiting to receive the princess, who was mounted behind one ofthe clerks, and thus conveyed, coy but compliant, to the fortress. Here she was received with devout, though decent joy, by her expectingbridegroom. 

Her bridal adornments, it is true, at first caused some little dismay, having painted and anointed herself for the occasion according to theChinook toilet; by dint, however, of copious ablutions, she was freedfrom all adventitious tint and fragrance, and entered into the nuptialstate, the cleanest princess that had ever been known, of the somewhatunctuous tribe of the Chinooks. 

From that time forward, Comcomly was a daily visitor at the fort, andwas admitted into the most intimate councils of his son-in-law. He tookan interest in everything that was going forward, but was particularlyfrequent in his visits to the blacksmith's shop; tasking the laborsof the artificer in iron for every state, insomuch that the necessarybusiness of the factory was often postponed to attend to hisrequisitions. 

The honey-moon had scarce passed away, and M'Dougal was seated withhis bride in the fortress of Astoria, when, about noon of the 20th ofAugust, Gassacop, the son of Comcomly, hurried into his presence withgreat agitation, and announced a ship at the mouth of the river. Thenews produced a vast sensation. Was it a ship of peace or war? Wasit American or British? Was it the Beaver or the Isaac Todd? M'Dougalhurried to the waterside, threw himself into a boat, and ordered thehands to pull with all speed for the mouth of the harbor. Those inthe fort remained watching the entrance of the river, anxious to knowwhether they were to prepare for greeting a friend or fighting an enemy. At length the ship was descried crossing the bar, and bending her coursetowards Astoria. Every gaze was fixed upon her in silent scrutiny, until the American flag was recognized. A general shout was the firstexpression of joy, and next a salutation was thundered from the cannonof the fort. 

The vessel came to anchor on the opposite side of the river, andreturned the salute. The boat of Mr. M'Dougal went on board, and wasseen returning late in the afternoon. The Astorians watched her withstraining eyes, to discover who were on board, but the sun went down, and the evening closed in, before she was sufficiently near. At lengthshe reached the land, and Mr. Hunt stepped on shore. He was hailedas one risen from the dead, and his return was a signal for merrimentalmost equal to that which prevailed at the nuptials of M'Dougal. 

We must now explain the cause of this gentleman's long absence, whichhad given rise to such gloomy and dispiriting surmises. 

CHAPTER LVII. 

 Voyage of the Beaver to New Archangel. --A Russian Governor. -- Roystering Rule. --The Tyranny of the Table--Hard Drinking Bargainings. --Voyage to Kamtschatka. --Seal Catching Establishment at St. Paul's. --Storms at Sea. --Mr. Hunt Left at the Sandwich Islands. --Transactions of the Beaver at Canton. --Return of Mr. Hunt to Astoria. 

IT will be recollected that the destination of the Boston, when shesailed from Astoria on the 4th of August in 1812, was to proceednorthwardly along the coast to Sheetka, or New Archangel, there todispose of that part of her cargo intended for the supply of the Russianestablishment at that place, and then to return to Astoria, where it wasexpected she would arrive in October. 

New Archangel is situated in Norfolk Sound, lat. 57deg 2' N. , long. 135deg 50' W. It was the head-quarters of the different colonies of theRussian Fur Company, and the common rendezvous of the American vesselstrading along the coast. 

The Beaver met with nothing worthy of particular mention in her voyage, and arrived at New Archangel on the 19th of August. The place at thattime was the residence of Count Baranoff, the governor of the differentcolonies; a rough, rugged, hospitable, hard-drinking old Russian;somewhat of a soldier; somewhat of a trader; above all, a boon companionof the old roystering school, with a strong cross of the bear. 

Mr. Hunt found this hyperborean veteran ensconced in a fort whichcrested the whole of a rocky promontory. It mounted one hundred guns, large and small, and was impregnable to Indian attack, unaided byartillery. Here the old governor lorded it over sixty Russians, whoformed the corps of the trading establishment, besides an indefinitenumber of Indian hunters of the Kodiak tribe, who were continuallycoming and going, or lounging and loitering about the fort like so manyhounds round a sportsman's hunting quarters. Though a loose liver amonghis guests, the governor was a strict disciplinarian among his men;keeping them in perfect subjection, and having seven on guard night andday. 

Besides those immediate serfs and dependents just mentioned, the oldRussian potentate exerted a considerable sway over a numerous andirregular class of maritime traders, who looked to him for aid andmunitions, and through whom he may be said to have, in some degree, extended his power along the whole northwest coast. These were Americancaptains of vessels engaged in a particular department of the trade. One of these captains would come, in a manner, empty-handed to NewArchangel. Here his ship would be furnished with about fifty canoes anda hundred Kodiak hunters, and fitted out with provisions, and everythingnecessary for hunting the sea-otter on the coast of California, wherethe Russians have another establishment. The ship would ply along theCalifornia coast from place to place, dropping parties of otter huntersin their canoes, furnishing them only with water, and leaving them todepend upon their own dexterity for a maintenance. When a sufficientcargo was collected, she would gather up her canoes and hunters, andreturn with them to Archangel; where the captain would render in thereturns of his voyage, and receive one half of the skins for his share. 

Over these coasting captains, as we have hinted, the veteran governorexerted some sort of sway, but it was of a peculiar and characteristickind; it was the tyranny of the table. They were obliged to join him inhis "prosnics" or carousals, and to drink "potations pottle deep. " Hiscarousals, too, were not of the most quiet kind, nor were his potationsas mild as nectar. "He is continually, " said Mr. Hunt, "givingentertainments by way of parade, and if you do not drink raw rum, andboiling punch as strong as sulphur, he will insult you as soon as hegets drunk, which is very shortly after sitting down to table. "

As to any "temperance captain" who stood fast to his faith, and refusedto give up his sobriety, he might go elsewhere for a market, for hestood no chance with the governor. Rarely, however, did any cold-watercaitiff of the kind darken the doors of old Baranoff; the coastingcaptains knew too well his humor and their own interests; they joined inhis revels, they drank, and sang, and whooped, and hiccuped, until theyall got "half seas over, " and then affairs went on swimmingly. 

An awful warning to all "flinchers" occurred shortly before Mr. Hunt'sarrival. A young naval officer had recently been sent out by the emperorto take command of one of the company's vessels. The governor, as usual, had him at his "prosnics, " and plied him with fiery potations. The youngman stood on the defensive until the old count's ire was completelykindled; he carried his point, and made the greenhorn tipsy, willynilly. In proportion as they grew fuddled they grew noisy, theyquarrelled in their cups; the youngster paid old Baranoff in his owncoin by rating him soundly; in reward for which, when sober, he wastaken the rounds of four pickets, and received seventy-nine lashes, taled out with Russian punctuality of punishment. 

Such was the old grizzled bear with whom Mr. Hunt had to do hisbusiness. How he managed to cope with his humor; whether he pledgedhimself in raw rum and blazing punch, and "clinked the can" with him asthey made their bargains, does not appear upon record; we must infer, however, from his general observations on the absolute sway of thishard-drinking potentate, that he had to conform to the customs of hiscourt, and that their business transactions presented a maudlin mixtureof punch and peltry. 

The greatest annoyance to Mr. Hunt, however, was the delay to which hewas subjected, in disposing of the cargo of the ship, and getting therequisite returns. With all the governor's devotions to the bottle, he never obfuscated his faculties sufficiently to lose sight of hisinterest, and is represented by Mr. Hunt as keen, not to say crafty, at a bargain, as the most arrant waterdrinker. A long time was expendednegotiating with him, and by the time the bargain was concluded, themonth of October had arrived. To add to the delay he was to be paid forhis cargo in seal skins. Now it so happened that there was none of thiskind of peltry at the fort of old Baranoff. It was necessary, therefore, for Mr. Hunt to proceed to a seal-catching establishment, whichthe Russian company had at the island of St. Paul, in the Sea ofKamtschatka. He accordingly set sail on the 4th of October, after havingspent forty-five days at New Archangel boosing and bargaining with itsroystering commander, and right glad was he to escape from the clutchesof "this old man of the sea. "

The Beaver arrived at St. Paul's on the 31st of October; by which time, according to arrangement, he ought to have been back at Astoria. Theisland of St. Paul is in latitude 57deg N. , longitude 170deg or 171degW. Its shores, in certain places, and at certain seasons, are coveredwith seals, while others are playing about in the water. Of these, theRussians take only the small ones, from seven to ten months old, andcarefully select the males, giving the females their freedom, that thebreed may not be diminished. The islanders, however, kill the largeones for provisions, and for skins wherewith to cover their canoes. Theydrive them from the shore over the rocks, until within a short distanceof their habitations, where they kill them. By this means, they savethemselves the trouble of carrying the skins and have the flesh at hand. This is thrown in heaps, and when the season for skinning is over, they take out the entrails and make one heap of the blubber. This, withdrift-wood, serves for fuel, for the island is entirely destitute oftrees. They make another heap of the flesh, which, with the eggs ofsea-fowls, preserved in oil, an occasional sea-lion, a few ducks inwinter, and some wild roots, compose their food. 

Mr. Hunt found several Russians at the island, and one hundred hunters, natives of Oonalaska, with their families. They lived in cabins thatlooked like canoes; being, for the most part formed of the jaw-bone ofa whale, put up as rafters, across which were laid pieces of driftwoodcovered over with long grass, the skins of large sea animals, and earth;so as to be quite comfortable, in despite of the rigors of the climate;though we are told they had as ancient and fish-like an odor, "as hadthe quarters of Jonah, when he lodged within the whale. "

In one of these odoriferous mansions, Mr. Hunt occasionally took up hisabode, that he might be at hand to hasten the loading of the ship. Theoperation, however, was somewhat slow, for it was necessary to overhauland inspect every pack to prevent imposition, and the peltries had thento be conveyed in large boats, made of skins, to the ship, which wassome little distance from the shore, standing off and on. 

One night, while Mr. Hunt was on shore, with some others of the crew, there arose a terrible gale. When the day broke, the ship was not to beseen. He watched for her with anxious eyes until night, but in vain. Dayafter day of boisterous storms, and howling wintry weather, were passedin watchfulness and solicitude. Nothing was to be seen but a dark andangry sea, and a scowling northern sky; and at night he retired withinthe jaws of the whale, and nestled disconsolately among seal skins. 

At length, on the 13th of November, the Beaver made her appearance;much the worse for the stormy conflicts which she had sustained in thosehyperborean seas. She had been obliged to carry a press of sail in heavygales to be able to hold her ground, and had consequently sustainedgreat damage in her canvas and rigging. Mr. Hunt lost no time inhurrying the residue of the cargo on board of her; then, bidding adieuto his seal-fishing friends, and his whalebone habitation, he put forthonce more to sea. 

He was now for making the best of his way to Astoria, and fortunatewould it have been for the interests of that place, and the interests ofMr. Astor, had he done so; but, unluckily, a perplexing question rosein his mind. The sails and rigging of the Beaver had been much rent andshattered in the late storm; would she be able to stand the hard galesto be expected in making Columbia River at this season? Was it prudent, also, at this boisterous time of the year to risk the valuable cargowhich she now had on board, by crossing and recrossing the dangerousbar of that river? These doubts were probably suggested or enforced byCaptain Sowle, who, it has already been seen, was an over-cautious, orrather, a timid seaman, and they may have had some weight with Mr. Hunt;but there were other considerations, which more strongly swayed hismind. The lateness of the season, and the unforeseen delays the shiphad encountered at New Archangel, and by being obliged to proceed to St. Paul's, had put her so much back in her calculated time, that there wasa risk of her arriving so late at Canton, as to come to a bad market, both for the sale of her peltries, and the purchase of a return cargo. He considered it to the interest of the company, therefore, that heshould proceed at once to the Sandwich Islands; there wait the arrivalof the annual vessel from New York, take passage in her to Astoria, andsuffer the Beaver to continue on to Canton. 

On the other hand, he was urged to the other course by his engagements;by the plan of the voyage marked out for the Beaver, by Mr. Astor; byhis inclination, and the possibility that the establishment might needhis presence, and by the recollection that there must already be a largeamount of peltries collected at Astoria, and waiting for the return ofthe Beaver, to convey them to market. 

These conflicting questions perplexed and agitated his mind and gaverise to much anxious reflection, for he was a conscientious man thatseems ever to have aimed at a faithful discharge of his duties, and tohave had the interests of his employers earnestly at heart. His decisionin the present instance was injudicious, and proved unfortunate. It was, to bear away for the Sandwich Islands. He persuaded himself that it wasa matter of necessity, and that the distressed condition of the shipleft him no other alternative; but we rather suspect he was so persuadedby the representations of the timid captain. They accordingly stood forthe Sandwich Islands, arrived at Woahoo, where the ship underwent thenecessary repairs, and again put to sea on the 1st of January, 1813;leaving Mr. Hunt on the island. 

We will follow the Beaver to Canton, as her fortunes, in some measure, exemplify the evil of commanders of ships acting contrary to orders;and as they form a part of the tissue of cross purposes that marred thegreat commercial enterprise we have undertaken to record. 

The Beaver arrived safe at Canton, where Captain Sowle found the letterof Mr. Astor, giving him information of the war and directing him toconvey the intelligence to Astoria. He wrote a reply, dictated either bytimidity or obstinacy, in which he declined complying with the orders ofMr. Astor, but said he would wait for the return of peace, and then comehome. The other proceedings of Captain Sowle were equally wrongheadedand unlucky. He was offered one hundred and fifty thousand dollars forthe fur he had taken on board at St. Paul's. The goods for which it hadbeen procured cost but twenty-five thousand dollars in New York. Had heaccepted this offer, and re-invested the amount in nankeens, which atthat time, in consequence of the interruption to commerce by the war, were at two thirds of their usual price, the whole would have broughtthree hundred thousand dollars in New York. It is true, the war wouldhave rendered it unsafe to attempt the homeward voyage, but he mighthave put the goods in store at Canton, until after the peace, and havesailed without risk of capture to Astoria; bringing to the partners atthat place tidings of the great profits realized on the outward cargo, and the still greater to be expected from the returns. The news of sucha brilliant commencement to their undertaking would have counterbalancedthe gloomy tidings of the war; it would have infused new spirit intothem all, and given them courage and constancy to persevere in theenterprise. Captain Sowle, however, refused the offer of one hundredand fifty thousand dollars, and stood wavering and chaffering forhigher terms. The furs began to fall in value; this only increasedhis irresolution; they sunk so much that he feared to sell at all; heborrowed money on Mr. Astor's account at an interest of eighteen percent. , and laid up his ship to await the return of peace. 

In the meanwhile, Mr. Hunt soon saw reason to repent the resolution hehad adopted in altering the destination of the ship. His stay at theSandwich Islands was prolonged far beyond expectation. He looked invain for the annual ship in the spring. Month after month passed by, and still she did not make her appearance. He, too, proved the danger ofdeparting from orders. Had he returned from St. Paul's to Astoria, allthe anxiety and despondency about his fate, and about the whole courseof the undertaking, would have been obviated. The Beaver would havereceived the furs collected at the factory and taken them to Canton, andgreat gains, instead of great losses, would have been the result. Thegreatest blunder, however, was that committed by Captain Sowle. 

At length, about the 20th of June, the ship Albatross, Captain Smith, arrived from China, and brought the first tidings of the war to theSandwich Islands. Mr. Hunt was no longer in doubt and perplexity as tothe reason of the non-appearance of the annual ship. His first thoughtswere for the welfare of Astoria, and, concluding that the inhabitantswould probably be in want of provisions, he chartered the Albatross fortwo thousand dollars, to land him, with some supplies, at the mouth ofthe Columbia, where he arrived, as we have seen, on the 20th of August, after a year's seafaring that might have furnished a chapter in thewanderings of Sinbad. 

CHAPTER LVIII. 

 Arrangements Among the Partners--Mr. Hunt Sails in the Albatross. --Arrives at the Marquesas--News of the Frigate Phoebe. --Mr. Hunt Proceeds to the Sandwich Islands. --Voyage of the Lark. --Her Shipwreck. --Transactions With the Natives of the Sandwich Islands--Conduct of Tamaahmaah. 

MR. HUNT was overwhelmed with surprise when he learnt the resolutiontaken by the partners to abandon Astoria. He soon found, however, thatmatters had gone too far, and the minds of his colleagues had become toofirmly bent upon the measure, to render any opposition of avail. He wasbeset, too, with the same disparaging accounts of the interior trade, and of the whole concerns and prospects of the company that had beenrendered to Mr. Astor. His own experience had been full of perplexitiesand discouragements. He had a conscientious anxiety for the interests ofMr. Astor, and, not comprehending the extended views of that gentleman, and his habit of operating with great amounts, he had from thefirst been daunted by the enormous expenses required, and had becomedisheartened by the subsequent losses sustained, which appeared to himto be ruinous in their magnitude. By degrees, therefore, he was broughtto acquiesce in the step taken by his colleagues, as perhaps advisablein the exigencies of the case; his only care was to wind up the businesswith as little further loss as possible to Mr. Astor. 

A large stock of valuable furs was collected at the factory, whichit was necessary to get to a market. There were twenty-five SandwichIslanders also in the employ of the company, whom they were bound, by express agreement, to restore to their native country. For thesepurposes a ship was necessary. 

The Albatross was bound to the Marquesas, and thence to the SandwichIslands. It was resolved that Mr. Hunt should sail in her in quest of avessel, and should return, if possible, by the 1st of January, bringingwith him a supply of provisions. Should anything occur, however, toprevent his return, an arrangement was to be proposed to Mr. M'Tavish, to transfer such of the men as were so disposed, from the service ofthe American Fur Company into that of the Northwest, the latter becomingresponsible for the wages due them, on receiving an equivalent in goodsfrom the store-house of the factory. As a means of facilitating thedespatch of business, Mr. M'Dougal proposed, that in case Mr. Huntshould not return, the whole arrangement with Mr. M'Tavish shouldbe left solely to him. This was assented to; the contingency beingconsidered possible, but not probable. 

It is proper to note, that, on the first announcement by Mr. M'Dougalof his intention to break up the establishment, three of the clerks, British subjects, had, with his consent, passed into the service of theNorthwest Company, and departed with Mr. M'Tavish for his post in theinterior. 

Having arranged all these matters during a sojourn of six days atAstoria, Mr. Hunt set sail in the Albatross on the 26th of August, andarrived without accident at the Marquesas. He had not been there long, when Porter arrived in the frigate Essex, bringing in a number of stoutLondon whalers as prizes, having made a sweeping cruise in the Pacific. From Commodore Porter he received the alarming intelligence that theBritish frigate Phoebe, with a store-ship mounted with battering pieces, calculated to attack forts, had arrived at Rio Janeiro, where she hadbeen joined by the sloops of war Cherub and Raccoon, and that they hadall sailed in company on the 6th of July for the Pacific, bound, as itwas supposed, to Columbia River. 

Here, then, was the death-warrant of unfortunate Astoria! The anxiousmind of Mr. Hunt was in greater perplexity than ever. He had been eagerto extricate the property of Mr. Astor from a failing concern with aslittle loss as possible; there was now danger that the whole would beswallowed up. How was it to be snatched from the gulf? It was impossibleto charter a ship for the purpose, now that a British squadron was onits way to the river. He applied to purchase one of the whale shipsbrought in by Commodore Porter. The commodore demanded twenty-fivethousand dollars for her. The price appeared exorbitant, and no bargaincould be made. Mr. Hunt then urged the commodore to fit out one of hisprizes, and send her to Astoria, to bring off the property and part ofthe people, but he declined, "from want of authority. " He assured Mr. Hunt, however, that he would endeavor to fall in with the enemy, orshould he hear of their having certainly gone to the Columbia, he wouldeither follow or anticipate them, should his circumstances warrant sucha step. 

In this tantalizing state of suspense, Mr. Hunt was detained at theMarquesas until November 23d, when he proceeded in the Albatross to theSandwich Islands. He still cherished a faint hope that, notwithstandingthe war, and all other discouraging circumstances, the annual ship mighthave been sent by Mr. Astor, and might have touched at the islands, andproceeded to the Columbia. He knew the pride and interest taken by thatgentleman in his great enterprise, and that he would not be deterred bydangers and difficulties from prosecuting it; much less would he leavethe infant establishment without succor and support in the time oftrouble. In this, we have seen, he did but justice to Mr. Astor; and wemust now turn to notice the cause of the non-arrival of the vessel whichhe had despatched with reinforcements and supplies. Her voyage formsanother chapter of accidents in this eventful story. 

The Lark sailed from New York on the 6th of March, 1813, and proceededprosperously on her voyage, until within a few degrees of the SandwichIslands. Here a gale sprang up that soon blew with tremendous violence. The Lark was a staunch and noble ship, and for a time buffeted bravelywith the storm. Unluckily, however, she "broached to, " and was struck bya heavy sea, that hove her on her beam-ends. The helm, too, was knockedto leeward, all command of the vessel was lost, and another mountainwave completely overset her. Orders were given to cut away the masts. Inthe hurry and confusion, the boats also were unfortunately cut adrift. The wreck then righted, but was a mere hulk, full of water, with a heavysea washing over it, and all the hatches off. On mustering the crew, oneman was missing, who was discovered below in the forecastle, drowned. 

In cutting away the masts, it had been utterly impossible to observethe necessary precaution of commencing with the lee rigging, that being, from the position of the ship, completely under water. The masts andspars, therefore, being linked to the wreck by the shrouds and therigging, remained alongside for four days. During all this time the shiplay rolling in the trough of the sea, the heavy surges breakingover her, and the spars heaving and banging to and fro, bruising thehalf-drowned sailors that clung to the bowsprit and the stumps of themasts. The sufferings of these poor fellows were intolerable. They stoodto their waists in water, in imminent peril of being washed off by everysurge. In this position they dared not sleep, lest they should let gotheir hold and be swept away. The only dry place on the wreck was thebowsprit. Here they took turns to be tied on, for half an hour at atime, and in this way gained short snatches of sleep. 

On the 14th, the first mate died at his post, and was swept off bythe surges. On the 17th, two seamen, faint and exhausted, were washedoverboard. The next wave threw their bodies back upon the deck, wherethey remained, swashing backward and forward, ghastly objects to thealmost perishing survivors. Mr. Ogden, the supercargo, who was at thebowsprit, called to the men nearest to the bodies, to fasten them to thewreck; as a last horrible resource in case of being driven to extremityby famine!

On the 17th the gale gradually subsided, and the sea became calm. Thesailors now crawled feebly about the wreck, and began to relieve it fromthe main incumbrances. The spars were cleared away, the anchors and gunsheaved overboard; the sprit-sail yard was rigged for a jury-mast, anda mizzen topsail set upon it. A sort of stage was made of a few brokenspars, on which the crew were raised above the surface of the water, soas to be enabled to keep themselves dry, and to sleep comfortably. Stilltheir sufferings from hunger and thirst were great; but there was aSandwich Islander on board, an expert swimmer, who found his way intothe cabin, and occasionally brought up a few bottles of wine and porter, and at length got into the rum, and secured a quarter cask of wine. A little raw pork was likewise procured, and dealt out with a sparinghand. The horrors of their situation were increased by the sight ofnumerous sharks prowling about the wreck, as if waiting for their prey. On the 24th, the cook, a black man, died, and was cast into the sea, when he was instantly seized on by these ravenous monsters. 

They had been several days making slow headway under their scanty sail, when, on the 25th, they came in sight of land. It was about fifteenleagues distant, and they remained two or three days drifting along insight of it. On the 28th, they descried, to their great transport, acanoe approaching, managed by natives. They came alongside, and broughta most welcome supply of potatoes. They informed them that the land theyhad made was one of the Sandwich Islands. The second mate and one ofthe seamen went on shore in the canoe for water and provisions, and toprocure aid from the islanders, in towing the wreck into a harbor. 

Neither of the men returned, nor was any assistance sent from shore. The next day, ten or twelve canoes came alongside, but roamed roundthe wreck like so many sharks, and would render no aid in towing her toland. 

The sea continued to break over the vessel with such violence, that itwas impossible to stand at the helm without the assistance of lashings. The crew were now so worn down by famine and thirst, that the captainsaw it would be impossible for them to withstand the breaking of thesea, when the ship should ground; he deemed the only chance for theirlives, therefore, was to get to land in the canoes, and stand ready toreceive and protect the wreck when she should drift ashore. Accordingly, they all got safe to land, but had scarcely touched the beach when theywere surrounded by the natives, who stripped them almost naked. The nameof this inhospitable island was Tahoorowa. 

In the course of the night, the wreck came drifting to the strand, withthe surf thundering around her, and shortly afterwards bilged. On thefollowing morning, numerous casks of provisions floated on shore. Thenatives staved them for the sake of the iron hoops, but would not allowthe crew to help themselves to the contents, or to go on board of thewreck. 

As the crew were in want of everything, and as it might be a long timebefore any opportunity occurred for them to get away from these islands, Mr. Ogden, as soon as he could get a chance, made his way to the islandof Owyhee, and endeavored to make some arrangement with the king for therelief of his companions in misfortune. 

The illustrious Tamaahmaah, as we have shown on a former occasion, wasa shrewd bargainer, and in the present instance proved himself anexperienced wrecker. His negotiations with M'Dougal, and the other "Erisof the great American Fur Company, " had but little effect on presentcircumstances, and he proceeded to avail himself of their misfortunes. He agreed to furnish the crew with provisions during their stay in histerritories, and to return to them all their clothing that could befound, but he stipulated that the wreck should be abandoned to him as awaif cast by fortune on his shores. With these conditions Mr. Ogden wasfain to comply. Upon this the great Tamaahmaah deputed his favorite, John Young, the tarpaulin governor of Owyhee, to proceed with a numberof royal guards, and take possession of the wreck on behalf of thecrown. This was done accordingly, and the property and crew were removedto Owyhee. The royal bounty appears to have been but scanty in itsdispensations. The crew fared but meagerly; though, on reading thejournal of the voyage, it is singular to find them, after all thehardships they had suffered, so sensitive about petty inconveniences, asto exclaim against the king as a "savage monster, " for refusing thema "pot to cook in, " and denying Mr. Ogden the use of a knife and forkwhich had been saved from the wreck. 

Such was the unfortunate catastrophe of the Lark; had she reached herdestination in safety, affairs at Astoria might have taken a differentcourse. A strange fatality seems to have attended all the expeditions bysea, nor were those by land much less disastrous. 

Captain Northrop was still at the Sandwich Islands, on December 20th, when Mr. Hunt arrived. The latter immediately purchased, for tenthousand dollars, a brig called the Pedler, and put Captain Northrop incommand of her. They set sail for Astoria on the 22d January, intendingto remove the property from thence as speedily as possible to theRussian settlements on the northwest coast, to prevent it from fallinginto the hands of the British. Such were the orders of Mr. Astor, sentout by the Lark. 

We will now leave Mr. Hunt on his voyage, and return to see what hastaken place at Astoria during his absence. 

CHAPTER LIX. 

 Arrival of M'Tavish at Astoria. --Conduct of His Followers. -- Negotiations of M'Dougal and M'Tavish. --Bargain for the Transfer of Astoria--Doubts Entertained of the Loyalty of M'Dougal. 

ON the 2d of October, about five weeks after Mr. Hunt had sailed in theAlbatross from Astoria, Mr. M'Kenzie set off with two canoes, and twelvemen, for the posts of Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, to appraise them ofthe new arrangements determined upon in the recent conference of thepartners at the factory. 

He had not ascended the river a hundred miles, when he met a squadronof ten canoes, sweeping merrily down under British colors, the Canadianoarsmen, as usual, in full song. 

It was an armament fitted out by M'Tavish, who had with him Mr. J. Stuart, another partner of the Northwest Company, together with someclerks, and sixty-eight men--seventy-five souls in all. They had heardof the frigate Phoebe and the Isaac Todd being on the high seas, andwere on their way down to await their arrival. In one of the canoes Mr. Clarke came as a passenger, the alarming intelligence having brought himdown from his post on the Spokan. Mr. M'Kenzie immediately determined toreturn with him to Astoria, and, veering about, the two parties encampedtogether for the night. The leaders, of course, observed a duedecorum, but some of the subalterns could not restrain their chucklingexultation, boasting that they would soon plant the British standard onthe walls of Astoria, and drive the Americans out of the country. 

In the course of the evening, Mr. M'Kenzie had a secret conference withMr. Clarke, in which they agreed to set off privately before daylight, and get down in time to appraise M'Dougal of the approach of theseNorthwesters. The latter, however, were completely on the alert; just asM'Kenzie's canoes were about to push off, they were joined by a couplefrom the Northwest squadron, in which was M'Tavish, with two clerks, and eleven men. With these, he intended to push forward and makearrangements, leaving the rest of the convoy, in which was a largequantity of furs, to await his orders. 

The two parties arrived at Astoria on the 7th of October. TheNorthwesters encamped under the guns of the fort, and displayed theBritish colors. The young men in the fort, natives of the United States, were on the point of hoisting the American flag, but were forbiddenby Mr. M'Dougal. They were astonished at such a prohibition, and wereexceedingly galled by the tone and manner assumed by the clerks andretainers of the Northwest Company, who ruffled about in that swellingand braggart style which grows up among these heroes of the wilderness;they, in fact, considered themselves lords of the ascendant and regardedthe hampered and harassed Astorians as a conquered people. 

On the following day M'Dougal convened the clerks, and read to theman extract from a letter from his uncle, Mr. Angus Shaw, one of theprincipal partners of the Northwest Company, announcing the coming ofthe Phoebe and Isaac Todd, "to take and destroy everything American onthe northwest coast. "

This intelligence was received without dismay by such of the clerks aswere natives of the United States. They had felt indignant at seeingtheir national flag struck by a Canadian commander, and the British flagflowed, as it were, in their faces. They had been stung to the quick, also, by the vaunting airs assumed by the Northwesters. In this mood ofmind, they would willingly have nailed their colors to the staff, anddefied the frigate. She could not come within many miles of the fort, they observed, and any boats she might send could be destroyed by theircannon. 

There were cooler and more calculating spirits, however, who hadthe control of affairs, and felt nothing of the patriotic pride andindignation of these youths. The extract of the letter had, apparently, been read by M'Dougal, merely to prepare the way for a preconcertedstroke of management. On the same day Mr. M'Tavish proposed to purchasethe whole stock of goods and furs belonging to the company, both atAstoria and in the interior, at cost and charges. Mr. M'Dougal undertookto comply; assuming the whole management of the negotiation in virtueof the power vested in him, in case of the non-arrival of Mr. Hunt. That power, however, was limited and specific, and did not extend to anoperation of this nature and extent; no objection, however, was made tohis assumption, and he and M'Tavish soon made a preliminary arrangement, perfectly satisfactory to the latter. 

Mr. Stuart, and the reserve party of Northwesters, arrived shortlyafterwards, and encamped with M'Tavish. The former exclaimed loudlyagainst the terms of the arrangement, and insisted upon a reduction ofthe prices. New negotiations had now to be entered into. The demandsof the Northwesters were made in a peremptory tone, and they seemeddisposed to dictate like conquerors. The Americans looked on withindignation and impatience. They considered M'Dougal as acting, if not aperfidious, certainly a craven part. He was continually repairing tothe camp to negotiate, instead of keeping within his walls and receivingovertures in his fortress. His case, they observed, was not so desperateas to excuse such crouching. He might, in fact, hold out for his ownterms. The Northwest party had lost their ammunition; they had no goodsto trade with the natives for provisions; and they were so destitutethat M'Dougal had absolutely to feed them, while he negotiated withthem. He, on the contrary, was well lodged and victualled; had sixtymen, with arms, ammunition, boats, and everything requisite either fordefense or retreat. The party, beneath the guns of his fort, were at hismercy; should an enemy appear in the offing, he could pack up the mostvaluable part of the property and retire to some place of concealment, or make off for the interior. 

These considerations, however, had no weight with Mr. M'Dougal, or wereoverruled by other motives. The terms of sale were lowered by him to thestandard fixed by Mr. Stuart, and an agreement executed on the 16th ofOctober, by which the furs and merchandise of all kinds in the country, belonging to Mr. Astor, passed into the possession of the NorthwestCompany at about a third of their value. * A safe passage through theNorthwest posts was guaranteed to such as did not choose to enter intothe service of that Company, and the amount of wages due to them was tobe deducted from the price paid for Astoria. 

The conduct and motives of Mr. M'Dougal, throughout the whole of thisproceeding, have been strongly questioned by the other partners. Hehas been accused of availing himself of a wrong construction of powersvested in him at his own request, and of sacrificing the interestsof Mr. Astor to the Northwest Company, under the promise or hope ofadvantage to himself. 

He always insisted, however, that he made the best bargain for Mr. Astorthat circumstances would permit; the frigate being hourly expected, in which case the whole property of that gentleman would be liable tocapture. That the return of Mr. Hunt was problematical; the frigateintending to cruise along the coast for two years, and clear it of allAmerican vessels. He moreover averred, and M'Tavish corroboratedhis averment by certificate, that he proposed an arrangement to thatgentleman, by which the furs were to be sent to Canton, and sold thereat Mr. Astor's risk, and for his account; but the proposition was notacceded to. 

Notwithstanding all his representations, several of the persons presentat the transaction, and acquainted with the whole course of the affair, and among the number Mr. M'Kenzie himself, his occasional coadjutor, remained firm in the belief that he had acted a hollow part. Neitherdid he succeed in exculpating himself to Mr. Astor; that gentlemandeclaring, in a letter written some time afterwards, to Mr. Hunt, thathe considered the property virtually given away. "Had our place and ourproperty, " he adds, "been fairly captured, I should have preferred it; Ishould not feel as if I were disgraced. "

All these may be unmerited suspicions; but it certainly is acircumstance strongly corroborative of them, that Mr. M'Dougal, shortlyafter concluding this agreement, became a member of the NorthwestCompany, and received a share productive of a handsome income. 

 * Not quite $40, 000 were allowed for furs worth upwards of $100, 000. Beaver was valued at two dollars per skin, though worth five dollars. Land otter at fifty cents, though worth five dollars. Sea-otter at twelve dollars, worth from forty- five to sixty dollars; and for several kinds of furs nothing was allowed. Moreover, the goods and merchandise for the Indian trade ought to have brought three times the amount for which they were sold. 

The following estimate has been made of the articles on hand, and theprices:

 17, 705 lbs. Beaver parchment, valued at $2. 00 worth $5. 00 465 old coat beaver, valued at 1. 66 worth 3. 50

 907 land otter, valued at. 50 worth 5. 00 68 sea-otter, valued at 12. 00 worth 45 to 60. 00 30 sea-otter, valued at 5. 00 worth 25. 00

 Nothing was allowed for 179 mink skins, worth each. 40 22 raccoon, worth each. 40 28 lynx, worth each 2. 00 18 fox, worth each 1. 00 106 fox, worth each 1. 50 71 black bear, worth each 4. 00 16 grizzly bear, worth each 10. 00

CHAPTER LX. 

 Arrival of a Strange Sail. --Agitation at Astoria. --Warlike Offer of Comcomly. --Astoria Taken Possession of by the British. --Indignation of Comcomly at the Conduct of His Son- in-Law. 

ON the morning of the 30th of November, a sail was descried doublingCape Disappointment. It came to anchor in Baker's Bay, and proved to bea ship of war. Of what nation? was now the anxious inquiry. If English, why did it come alone? where was the merchant vessel that was to haveaccompanied it? If American, what was to become of the newly acquiredpossession of the Northwest Company?

In this dilemma, M'Tavish, in all haste, loaded two barges with all thepackages of furs bearing the mark of the Northwest Company, and madeoff for Tongue Point, three miles up the river. There he was to await apreconcerted signal from M'Dougal, on ascertaining the character of theship. If it should prove American, M'Tavish would have a fair start, andcould bear off his rich cargo to the interior. It is singular that thisprompt mode of conveying valuable, but easily transportable effectsbeyond the reach of a hostile ship should not have suggested itselfwhile the property belonged to Mr. Astor. 

In the meantime, M'Dougal, who still remained nominal chief at the fort, launched a canoe, manned by men recently in the employ of the AmericanFur Company, and steered for the ship. On the way, he instructed hismen to pass themselves for Americans or Englishmen, according to theexigencies of the case. 

The vessel proved to be the British sloop of war Raccoon, of twenty-sixguns, and one hundred and twenty men, commanded by Captain Black. According to the account of that officer, the frigate Phoebe, and twosloops of war Cherub and Raccoon, had sailed in convoy of the Isaac Toddfrom Rio Janeiro. On board of the Phoebe, Mr. John M'Donald, a partnerof the Northwest Company, embarked as passenger, to profit by theanticipated catastrophe at Astoria. The convoy was separated by stressof weather off Cape Horn. The three ships of war came together again atthe island of Juan Fernandez, their appointed rendezvous, but waited invain for the Isaac Todd. 

In the meantime, intelligence was received of the mischief thatCommodore Porter was doing among the British whale ships. CommodoreHillyer immediately set sail in quest of him with the Phoebe and theCherub, transferring Mr. M'Donald to the Raccoon, and ordered thatvessel to proceed to the Columbia. 

The officers of the Raccoon were in high spirits. The agents of theNorthwest Company, in instigating the expedition, had talked of immensebooty to be made by the fortunate captors of Astoria. Mr. M'Donald hadkept up the excitement during the voyage, so that not a midshipman butrevelled in dreams of ample prize-money, nor a lieutenant that wouldhave sold his chance for a thousand pounds. Their disappointment, therefore, may easily be conceived, when they learned that theirwarlike attack upon Astoria had been forestalled by a snug commercialarrangement; that their anticipated booty had become British propertyin the regular course of traffic, and that all this had been effectedby the very Company which had been instrumental in getting them sent onwhat they now stigmatized as a fool's errand. They felt as if they hadbeen duped and made tools of, by a set of shrewd men of traffic, who hademployed them to crack the nut, while they carried off the kernel. In aword, M'Dougal found himself so ungraciously received by his countrymenon board of the ship, that he was glad to cut short his visit, andreturn to shore. He was busy at the fort, making preparations forthe reception of the captain of the Raccoon, when his one-eyed Indianfather-in-law made his appearance, with a train of Chinook warriors, allpainted and equipped in warlike style. 

Old Comcomly had beheld, with dismay, the arrival of a "big war canoe"displaying the British flag. The shrewd old savage had become somethingof a politician in the course of his daily visits at the fort. Heknew of the war existing between the nations, but knew nothing of thearrangement between M'Dougal and M'Tavish. He trembled, therefore, forthe power of his white son-in-law, and the new-fledged grandeur of hisdaughter, and assembled his warriors in all haste. "King George, " saidhe, "has sent his great canoe to destroy the fort, and make slaves ofall the inhabitants. Shall we suffer it? The Americans are the firstwhite men that have fixed themselves in the land. They have treated uslike brothers. Their great chief has taken my daughter to be his squaw:we are, therefore, as one people. "

His warriors all determined to stand by the Americans to the last, andto this effect they came painted and armed for battle. Comcomly made aspirited war-speech to his son-in-law. He offered to kill every one ofKing George's men that should attempt to land. It was an easy matter. The ship could not approach within six miles of the fort; the crew couldonly land in boats. The woods reached to the water's edge; in these, heand his warriors would conceal themselves, and shoot down the enemy asfast as they put foot on shore. 

M'Dougal was, doubtless, properly sensible of this parental devotion onthe part of his savage father-in-law, and perhaps a little rebuked bythe game spirit, so opposite to his own. He assured Comcomly, however, that his solicitude for the safety of himself and the princess wassuperfluous; as, though the ship belonged to King George, her crew wouldnot injure the Americans, or their Indian allies. He advised him and hiswarriors, therefore, to lay aside their weapons and war shirts, wash offthe paint from their faces and bodies, and appear like clean and civilsavages, to receive the strangers courteously. 

Comcomly was sorely puzzled at this advice, which accorded so littlewith his Indian notions of receiving a hostile nation, and it was onlyafter repeated and positive assurances of the amicable intentions ofthe strangers that he was induced to lower his fighting tone. He saidsomething to his warriors explanatory of this singular posture ofaffairs, and in vindication, perhaps, of the pacific temper of hisson-in-law. They all gave a shrug and an Indian grunt of acquiescence, and went off sulkily to their village, to lay aside their weapons forthe present. 

The proper arrangements being made for the reception of Captain Black, that officer caused his ship's boats to be manned, and landed withbefitting state at Astoria. From the talk that had been made by theNorthwest Company of the strength of the place, and the armament theyhad required to assist in its reduction, he expected to find a fortressof some importance. When he beheld nothing but stockades and bastions, calculated for defense against naked savages, he felt an emotion ofindignant surprise, mingled with something of the ludicrous. "Is thisthe fort, " cried he, "about which I have heard so much talking? D-n me, but I'd batter it down in two hours with a four pounder!"

When he learned, however, the amount of rich furs that had been passedinto the hands of the Northwesters, he was outrageous, and insistedthat an inventory should be taken of all the property purchased ofthe Americans, "with a view to ulterior measures in England, for therecovery of the value from the Northwest Company. "

As he grew cool, however, he gave over all idea of preferring sucha claim, and reconciled himself, as well as he could, to the idea ofhaving been forestalled by his bargaining coadjutors. 

On the 12th of December, the fate of Astoria was consummated by aregular ceremonial. Captain Black, attended by his officers, entered thefort, caused the British standard to be erected, broke a bottle ofwine and declared, in a loud voice, that he took possession of theestablishment and of the country, in the name of his Britannic Majesty, changing the name of Astoria to that of Fort George. 

The Indian warriors, who had offered their services to repel thestrangers, were present on this occasion. It was explained to them asbeing a friendly arrangement and transfer, but they shook their headsgrimly, and considered it an act of subjugation of their ancient allies. They regretted that they had complied with M'Dougal's wishes, in layingaside their arms, and remarked, that, however the Americans mightconceal the fact, they were undoubtedly all slaves; nor could they bepersuaded of the contrary, until they beheld the Raccoon depart withouttaking away any prisoners. 

As to Comcomly, he no longer prided himself upon his white son-in-law, but, whenever he was asked about him, shook his head, and replied, thathis daughter had made a mistake, and, instead of getting a great warriorfor a husband, had married herself to a squaw. 

CHAPTER LXI. 

 Arrival of the Brig Pedler at Astoria. --Breaking Up of the Establishment. --Departure of Several of the Company. -- Tragical Story Told by the Squaw of Pierre Dorion. --Fate of Reed and His Companions. --Attempts of Mr. Astor to Renew His Enterprise. -Disappointment. --Concluding Observations and Reflection. 

HAVING given the catastrophe at the Fort of Astoria, it remains now butto gather up a few loose ends of this widely excursive narrative andconclude. On the 28th of February the brig Pedler anchored in ColumbiaRiver. It will be recollected that Mr. Hunt had purchased this vessel atthe Sandwich Islands, to take off the furs collected at the factory, andto restore the Sandwich Islanders to their homes. When that gentlemanlearned, however, the precipitate and summary manner in which theproperty had been bargained away by M'Dougal, he expressed hisindignation in the strongest terms, and determined to make an effortto get back the furs. As soon as his wishes were known in thisrespect, M'Dougal came to sound him on behalf of the Northwest Company, intimating that he had no doubt the peltries might be repurchased at anadvance of fifty per cent. This overture was not calculated to soothethe angry feelings of Mr. Hunt, and his indignation was complete, when he discovered that M'Dougal had become a partner of the NorthwestCompany, and had actually been so since the 23d of December. He hadkept his partnership a secret, however; had retained the papers of thePacific Fur Company in his possession; and had continued to act as Mr. Astor's agent, though two of the partners of the other company, Mr. M'Kenzie and Mr. Clarke, were present. He had, moreover, divulged to hisnew associates all that he knew as to Mr. Astor's plans and affairs, andhad made copies of his business letters for their perusal. 

Mr. Hunt now considered the whole conduct of M'Dougal hollow andcollusive. His only thought was, therefore, to get all the papers ofthe concern out of his hands, and bring the business to a close; for theinterests of Mr. Astor were yet completely at stake; the drafts of theNorthwest Company in his favor, for the purchase money, not having yetbeen obtained. With some difficulty he succeeded in getting possessionof the papers. The bills or drafts were delivered without hesitation. The latter he remitted to Mr. Astor by some of his associates, who wereabout to cross the continent to New York. This done, he embarked onboard the Pedler, on the 3d of April, accompanied by two of the clerks, Mr. Seton and Mr. Halsey, and bade a final adieu to Astoria. 

The next day, April 4th, Messrs. Clarke, M'Kenzie, David Stuart, and such of the Astorians as had not entered into the service of theNorthwest Company, set out to cross the Rocky Mountains. It is notour intention to take the reader another journey across those ruggedbarriers; but we will step forward with the travellers to a distanceon their way, merely to relate their interview with a character alreadynoted in this work. 

As the party were proceeding up the Columbia, near the mouth of theWallah-Wallah River, several Indian canoes put off from the shore toovertake them, and a voice called upon them in French and requested themto stop. They accordingly put to shore, and were joined by those in thecanoes. To their surprise, they recognized in the person who had hailedthem the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion, accompanied by her twochildren. She had a story to tell, involving the fate of several of ourunfortunate adventurers. 

Mr. John Reed, the Hibernian, it will be remembered, had been detachedduring the summer to the Snake River. His party consisted of fourCanadians, Giles Le Clerc, Francois Landry, Jean Baptiste Turcot, andAndre La Chapelle, together with two hunters, Pierre Dorion and PierreDelaunay; Dorion, as usual, being accompanied by his wife and children. The objects of this expedition were twofold: to trap beaver, and tosearch for the three hunters, Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner. 

In the course of the autumn, Reed lost one man, Landry, by death;another one, Pierre Delaunay, who was of a sullen, perverse disposition, left him in a moody fit, and was never heard of afterwards. The numberof his party was not, however, reduced by these losses, as the threehunters, Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner, had joined it. 

Reed now built a house on the Snake River, for their winter quarters;which being completed, the party set about trapping. Rezner, Le Clerc, and Pierre Dorion went about five days' journey from the winteringhouse, to a part of the country well stocked with beaver. Here they putup a hut, and proceeded to trap with great success. While the men wereout hunting, Pierre Dorion's wife remained at home to dress the skinsand prepare the meals. She was thus employed one evening about thebeginning of January, cooking the supper of the hunters, when she heardfootsteps, and Le Clerc staggered, pale and bleeding, into the hut. Heinformed her that a party of savages had surprised them, while at theirtraps, and had killed Rezner and her husband. He had barely strengthleft to give this information, when he sank upon the ground. 

The poor woman saw that the only chance for life was instant flight, but, in this exigency, showed that presence of mind and forceof character for which she had frequently been noted. With greatdifficulty, she caught two of the horses belonging to the party. Thencollecting her clothes and a small quantity of beaver meat and driedsalmon, she packed them upon one of the horses, and helped the woundedman to mount upon it. On the other horse she mounted with her twochildren, and hurried away from this dangerous neighborhood, directingher flight to Mr. Reed's establishment. On the third day, she descried anumber of Indians on horseback proceeding in an easterly direction. Sheimmediately dismounted with her children, and helped Le Clerc likewiseto dismount, and all concealed themselves. Fortunately they escaped thesharp eyes of the savages, but had to proceed with the utmost caution. That night they slept without fire or water; she managed to keep herchildren warm in her arms; but before morning, poor Le Clerc died. 

With the dawn of day the resolute woman resumed her course, and, onthe fourth day, reached the house of Mr. Reed. It was deserted, and allround were marks of blood and signs of a furious massacre. Not doubtingthat Mr. Reed and his party had all fallen victims, she turned in freshhorror from the spot. For two days she continued hurrying forward, readyto sink for want of food, but more solicitous about her children thanherself. At length she reached a range of the Rocky Mountains, nearthe upper part of the Wallah-Wallah River. Here she chose a wild lonelyravine, as her place of winter refuge. 

She had fortunately a buffalo robe and three deer-skins; of these, andof pine bark and cedar branches, she constructed a rude wigwam, whichshe pitched beside a mountain spring. Having no other food, she killedthe two horses, and smoked their flesh. The skins aided to cover herhut. Here she dragged out the winter, with no other company than hertwo children. Towards the middle of March her provisions were nearlyexhausted. She therefore packed up the remainder, slung it on her back, and, with her helpless little ones, set out again on her wanderings. Crossing the ridge of mountains, she descended to the banks of theWallah-Wallah, and kept along them until she arrived where that riverthrows itself into the Columbia. She was hospitably received andentertained by the Wallah-Wallahs, and had been nearly two weeks amongthem when the two canoes passed. 

On being interrogated, she could assign no reason for this murderousattack of the savages; it appeared to be perfectly wanton andunprovoked. Some of the Astorians supposed it an act of butchery by aroving band of Blackfeet; others, however, and with greater probabilityof correctness, have ascribed it to the tribe of Pierced-nose Indians, in revenge for the death of their comrade hanged by order of Mr. Clarke. If so, it shows that these sudden and apparently wanton outbreakings ofsanguinary violence on the part of the savages have often some previous, though perhaps remote, provocation. 

The narrative of the Indian woman closes the checkered adventuresof some of the personages of this motley story; such as the honestHibernian Reed, and Dorion the hybrid interpreter. Turcot and LaChapelle were two of the men who fell off from Mr. Crooks in the courseof his wintry journey, and had subsequently such disastrous times amongthe Indians. We cannot but feel some sympathy with that persevering trioof Kentuckians, Robinson, Rezner, and Hoback, who twice turned back whenon their way homeward, and lingered in the wilderness to perish by thehands of savages. 

The return parties from Astoria, both by sea and land, experienced onthe way as many adventures, vicissitudes, and mishaps, as the far-famedheroes of the Odyssey; they reached their destination at differenttimes, bearing tidings to Mr. Astor of the unfortunate termination ofhis enterprise. 

That gentleman, however, was not disposed, even yet, to give the matterup as lost. On the contrary, his spirit was roused by what he consideredungenerous and unmerited conduct on the part of the Northwest Company. "After their treatment of me, " said he, in a letter to Mr. Hunt, "I haveno idea of remaining quiet and idle. " He determined, therefore, as soonas circumstances would permit, to resume his enterprise. 

At the return of peace, Astoria, with the adjacent country, revertedto the United States by the treaty of Ghent, on the principle of statusante bellum, and Captain Biddle was despatched in the sloop of war, Ontario, to take formal possession. 

In the winter of 1815, a law was passed by Congress prohibiting alltraffic of British traders within the territories of the United States. 

The favorable moment seemed now to Mr. Astor to have arrived for therevival of his favorite enterprise, but new difficulties had grown up toimpede it. The Northwest Company were now in complete occupation of theColumbia River, and its chief tributary streams, holding the posts whichhe had established, and carrying on a trade throughout the neighboringregion, in defiance of the prohibitory law of Congress, which, ineffect, was a dead letter beyond the mountains. 

To dispossess them would be an undertaking of almost a belligerentnature; for their agents and retainers were well armed, and skilled inthe use of weapons, as is usual with Indian traders. The ferocious andbloody contests which had taken place between the rival trading partiesof the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Companies had shown what might beexpected from commercial feuds in the lawless depths of the wilderness. Mr. Astor did not think it advisable, therefore, to attempt the matterwithout the protection of the American flag; under which his peoplemight rally in case of need. He accordingly made an informal overture tothe President of the United States, Mr. Madison, through Mr. Gallatin, offering to renew his enterprise, and to reestablish Astoria, providedit would be protected by the American flag, and made a military post;stating that the whole force required would not exceed a lieutenant'scommand. 

The application, approved and recommended by Mr. Gallatin, one of themost enlightened statesmen of our country, was favorably received, butno step was taken in consequence; the President not being disposed, inall probability, to commit himself by any direct countenance or overtact. Discouraged by this supineness on the part of the government, Mr. Astor did not think fit to renew his overtures in a more formal manner, and the favorable moment for the re-occupation of Astoria was sufferedto pass unimproved. 

The British trading establishments were thus enabled, withoutmolestation, to strike deep their roots, and extend their ramifications, in despite of the prohibition of Congress, until they had spreadthemselves over the rich field of enterprise opened by Mr. Astor. TheBritish government soon began to perceive the importance of this region, and to desire to include it within their territorial domains. A questionhas consequently risen as to the right to the soil, and has become oneof the most perplexing now open between the United States and GreatBritain. In the first treaty relative to it, under date of October20th, 1818, the question was left unsettled, and it was agreed thatthe country on the northwest coast of America, westward of the RockyMountains, claimed by either nation, should be open to the inhabitantsof both for ten years, for the purpose of trade, with the equal rightof navigating all its rivers. When these ten years had expired, asubsequent treaty, in 1828, extended the arrangement to ten additionalyears. So the matter stands at present. 

On casting back our eyes over the series of events we have recorded, we see no reason to attribute the failure of this great commercialundertaking to any fault in the scheme, or omission in the execution ofit, on the part of the projector. It was a magnificent enterprise; wellconcerted and carried on, without regard to difficulties or expense. Asuccession of adverse circumstances and cross purposes, however, besetit almost from the outset; some of them, in fact, arising from neglectof the orders and instructions of Mr. Astor. The first crippling blowwas the loss of the Tonquin, which clearly would not have happened, hadMr. Astor's earnest injunctions with regard to the natives been attendedto. Had this ship performed her voyage prosperously, and revisitedAstoria in due time, the trade of the establishment would have taken itspreconcerted course, and the spirits of all concerned been kept up bya confident prospect of success. Her dismal catastrophe struck a chillinto every heart, and prepared the way for subsequent despondency. 

Another cause of embarrassment and loss was the departure from the planof Mr. Astor, as to the voyage of the Beaver, subsequent to her visitingAstoria. The variation from this plan produced a series of crosspurposes, disastrous to the establishment, and detained Mr. Hunt absentfrom his post, when his presence there was of vital importance tothe enterprise; so essential is it for an agent, in any great andcomplicated undertaking, to execute faithfully, and to the letter, the part marked out for him by the master mind which has concerted thewhole. 

The breaking out of the war between the United States and Great Britainmultiplied the hazards and embarrassments of the enterprise. The disappointment as to convoy rendered it difficult to keep upreinforcements and supplies; and the loss of the Lark added to thetissue of misadventures. 

That Mr. Astor battled resolutely against every difficulty, and pursuedhis course in defiance of every loss, has been sufficiently shown. Had he been seconded by suitable agents, and properly protected bygovernment, the ultimate failure of his plan might yet have beenaverted. It was his great misfortune that his agents were not imbuedwith his own spirit. Some had not capacity sufficient to comprehend thereal nature and extent of his scheme; others were alien in feeling andinterest, and had been brought up in the service of a rival company. Whatever sympathies they might originally have had with him, wereimpaired, if not destroyed, by the war. They looked upon his cause asdesperate, and only considered how they might make interest to regaina situation under their former employers. The absence of Mr. Hunt, theonly real representative of Mr. Astor, at the time of the capitulationwith the Northwest Company, completed the series of cross purposes. Hadthat gentleman been present, the transfer, in all probability, would nothave taken place. 

It is painful, at all times, to see a grand and beneficial stroke ofgenius fall of its aim: but we regret the failure of this enterprisein a national point of view; for, had it been crowned with success, it would have redounded greatly to the advantage and extension of ourcommerce. The profits drawn from the country in question by the BritishFur Company, though of ample amount, form no criterion by which to judgeof the advantages that would have arisen had it been entirely in thehands of the citizens of the United States. That company, as has beenshown, is limited in the nature and scope of its operations, and canmake but little use of the maritime facilities held out by an emporiumand a harbor on that coast. In our hands, besides the roving bands oftrappers and traders, the country would have been explored and settledby industrious husbandmen; and the fertile valleys bordering its rivers, and shut up among its mountains, would have been made to pour forththeir agricultural treasures to contribute to the general wealth. 

In respect to commerce, we should have had a line of trading posts fromthe Mississippi and the Missouri across the Rocky Mountains, forminga high road from the great regions of the west to the shores of thePacific. We should have had a fortified post and port at the mouth ofthe Columbia, commanding the trade of that river and its tributaries, and of a wide extent of country and sea-coast; carrying on an active andprofitable commerce with the Sandwich Islands, and a direct and frequentcommunication with China. In a word, Astoria might have realized theanticipations of Mr. Astor, so well understood and appreciated byMr. Jefferson, in gradually becoming a commercial empire beyond themountains, peopled by "free and independent Americans, and linked withus by ties of blood and interest. "

We repeat, therefore, our sincere regret that our government should haveneglected the overture of Mr. Astor, and suffered the moment to pass by, when full possession of this region might have been taken quietly, as amatter of course, and a military post established, without dispute, at Astoria. Our statesmen have become sensible, when too late, of theimportance of this measure. Bills have repeatedly been brought intoCongress for the purpose, but without success; and our rightfulpossessions on that coast, as well as our trade on the Pacific, have norallying point protected by the national flag, and by a military force. 

In the meantime, the second period of ten years is fast elapsing. In1838, the question of title will again come up, and most probably, inthe present amicable state of our relations with Great Britain, will beagain postponed. Every year, however, the litigated claim is growing inimportance. There is no pride so jealous and irritable as the pride ofterritory. As one wave of emigration after another rolls into the vastregions of the west, and our settlements stretch towards the RockyMountains, the eager eyes of our pioneers will pry beyond, and they willbecome impatient of any barrier or impediment in the way of whatthey consider a grand outlet of our empire. Should any circumstance, therefore, unfortunately occur to disturb the present harmony of thetwo nations, this ill-adjusted question, which now lies dormant, maysuddenly start up into one of belligerent import, and Astoria become thewatchword in a contest for dominion on the shores of the Pacific. 

Since the above was written, the question of dominion over the vastterritory beyond the Rocky Mountains, which for a time threatened todisturb the peaceful relations with our transatlantic kindred, has beenfinally settled in a spirit of mutual concession, and the venerableprojector whose early enterprise forms the subject of this work had thesatisfaction of knowing, ere his eyes closed upon the world, that theflag of his country again waved over "ASTORIA. "

APPENDIX

Draught of a Petition to Congress, sent by Mr. Astor in 1812. 

To the honorable the Senate and House of Representatives of the UnitedStates, in Congress assembled, The petition of the American Fur Company respectfully showeth:

THAT the trade with the several Indian tribes of North America has, formany years past, been almost exclusively carried on by the merchants ofCanada; who, having formed powerful and extensive associations for thatpurpose, being aided by British capital, and being encouraged by thefavor and protection of the British government, could not be opposed, with any prospect of success by individuals of the United States. 

That by means of the above trade, thus systematically pursued, not onlythe inhabitants of the United States have been deprived of commercialprofits and advantages, to which they appear to have just and naturalpretensions, but a great and dangerous influence has been establishedover the Indian tribes, difficult to be counteracted, and capable ofbeing exerted at critical periods, to the great injury and annoyance ofour frontier settlements. 

That in order to obtain at least a part of the above trade, and moreparticularly that which is within the boundaries of the United States, your petitioners, in the year 1808, obtained an act of incorporationfrom the State of New York, whereby they are enabled, with a competentcapital, to carry on the said trade with the Indians in such a manner asmay be conformable to the laws and regulations of the United States, inrelation to such a commerce. 

That the capital mentioned in the said act, amounting to one million ofdollars, having been duly formed, your petitioners entered with zealand alacrity into those large and important arrangements, which werenecessary for, or conducive to the object of their incorporation; and, among other things, purchased a great part of the stock in trade, andtrading establishments, of the Michilimackinac Company of Canada. Yourpetitioners also, with the expectation of great public and privateadvantages from the use of the said establishments, ordered, during thespring and summer of 1810, an assortment of goods from England, suitable for the Indian trade; which, in consequence of the President'sproclamation of November of that year, were shipped to Canada insteadof New York, and have been transported, under a very heavy expense, intothe interior of the country. But as they could not legally be broughtinto the Indian country within the boundaries of the United States, theyhave been stored on the Island of St. Joseph, in Lake Huron, where theynow remain. 

Your petitioners, with great deference and implicit submission tothe wisdom of the national legislature, beg leave to suggest forconsideration, whether they have not some claim to national attentionand encouragement, from the nature and importance of their undertaking;which though hazardous and uncertain as concerns their privateemolument, must, at any rate, redound to the public security andadvantage. If their undertaking shall appear to be of the descriptiongiven, they would further suggest to your honorable bodies, that unlessthey can procure a regular supply for the trade in which they areengaged, it may languish, and be finally abandoned by American citizens;when it will revert to its former channel, with additional, and perhapswith irresistible, power. 

Under these circumstances, and upon all those considerations of publicpolicy which will present themselves to your honorable bodies, inconnection with those already mentioned, your petitioners respectfullypray that a law may be passed to enable the President, or any of theheads of departments acting under his authority, to grant permits forthe introduction of goods necessary for the supply of the Indians, intothe Indian country that is within the boundaries of the United States, under such regulations, and with such restrictions, as may secure thepublic revenue and promote the public welfare. 

And your petitioners shall ever pray, &c. 

In witness whereof, the common seal of the American Fur Company is

hereunto affixed, the day of March, 1812. 

By order of the Corporation. 

AN ACT to enable the American Fur Company, and other citizens, to introduce goods necessary for the Indian tradeinto the territories within the boundaries of the United State. 

WHEREAS, the public peace and welfare require that the native Indiantribes, residing within the boundaries of the United States, shouldreceive their necessary supplies under the authority and from thecitizens of the United States: Therefore, be it enacted by theSenate and House of Representatives of the United States, in Congressassembled, that it shall be lawful for the President of the UnitedStates, or any of the heads of departments thereunto by him dulyauthorized, from time to time to grant permits to the American FurCompany, their agents or factors, or any other citizens of the UnitedStates engaged in the Indian trade, to introduce into the Indiancountry, within the boundaries of the United States, such goods, wares, and merchandise, as may be necessary for the said trade, undersuch regulations and restrictions as the said President or heads ofdepartments may judge proper; any law or regulation to the contrary, inanywise, notwithstanding. 

Letter from Mr. Gallatin to Mr. Astor

New York, August 5, 1835. 

DEAR SIR, --In compliance with your request, I will state such facts as Irecollect touching the subjects mentioned in your letter of 28th ult. I may be mistaken respecting dates and details, and will only relategeneral facts, which I well remember. 

In conformity with the treaty of 1794 with Great Britain, the citizensand subjects of each country were permitted to trade with the Indiansresiding in the territories of the other party. The reciprocity wasaltogether nominal. Since the conquest of Canada, the British hadinherited from the French the whole fur trade, through the great lakesand their communications, with all the western Indians, whether residingin the British dominions or the United States. They kept the importantwestern posts on those lakes till about the year 1797. And the defensiveIndian war, which the United States had to sustain from 1776 to 1795, had still more alienated the Indians, and secured to the British theirexclusive trade, carried through the lakes, wherever the Indians in thatquarter lived. No American could, without imminent danger of propertyand life, carry on that trade, even within the United States, by the wayof either Michilimackinac or St. Mary's. And independent of the lossof commerce, Great Britain was enabled to preserve a most dangerousinfluence over our Indians. 

It was under these circumstances that you communicated to our governmentthe prospect you had to be able, and your intention, to purchase onehalf of the interest of the Canadian Fur Company, engaged in trade bythe way of Michilimackinac with our own Indians. You wished to knowwhether the plan met with the approbation of government, and how faryou could rely on its protection and encouragement. This overturewas received with great satisfaction by the administration, andMr. Jefferson, then President, wrote you to that effect. I was alsodirected, as Secretary of the Treasury, to write to you an officialletter to the same purpose. On investigating the subject, it was foundthat the Executive had no authority to give you any direct aid; and Ibelieve you received nothing more than an entire approbation of yourplan, and general assurances of the protection due to every citizenengaged in lawful and useful pursuits. 

You did effect the contemplated purchase, but in what year I do notrecollect. Immediately before the war, you represented that a largequantity of merchandise, intended for the Indian trade, and includingarms and munitions of war, belonging to that concern of which you ownedone half, was deposited at a post on Lake Huron, within the Britishdominions; that, in order to prevent their ultimately falling into thehands of Indians who might prove hostile, you were desirous to try tohave them conveyed into the United States; but that you were preventedby the then existing law of non-intercourse with the British dominions. 

The Executive could not annul the provisions of that law. But I wasdirected to instruct the collectors on the lakes, in case you and youragents should voluntarily bring in and deliver to them any part of thegoods above mentioned, to receive and keep them in their guard, and notto commence prosecutions until further instructions: the intentionbeing then to apply to Congress for an act remitting the forfeiture andpenalties. I wrote accordingly, to that effect, to the collectors ofDetroit and Michilimackinac. 

The attempt to obtain the goods did not, however, succeed; and I cannotsay how far the failure injured you. But the war proved fatal to anothermuch more extensive and important enterprise. 

Previous to that time, but I also forget the year, you had undertakento carry on a trade on your own account, though I believe under the NewYork charter of the American Fur Company, with the Indians west of theRocky Mountains. This project was also communicated to government, andmet, of course, with its full approbation, and best wishes, for yoursuccess. You carried it on, on the most extensive scale, sending severalships to the mouth of the Columbia River, and a large party by landacross the mountains, and finally founding the establishment of Astoria. 

This unfortunately fell into the hands of the enemy during the war, fromcircumstances with which I am but imperfectly acquainted--being thenabsent on a foreign mission. I returned in September, 1815, and sailedagain on a mission to France in June, 1816. During that period I visitedWashington twice--in October or November, 1815, and in March, 1816. Onone of these occasions, and I believe on the last, you mentioned tome that you were disposed once more to renew the attempt, and toreestablish Astoria, provided you had the protection of the Americanflag; for which purpose, a lieutenant's command would be sufficient toyou. You requested me to mention this to the President, which I did. Mr. Madison said he would consider the subject, and, although he did notcommit himself, I thought that he received the proposal favorably. Themessage was verbal, and I do not know whether the application was everrenewed in a more formal manner. I sailed soon after for Europe, andwas seven years absent. I never had the pleasure, since 1816, to seeMr. Madison, and never heard again anything concerning the subject inquestion. 

I remain, dear sir, most respectfully, Your obedient servant, ALBERT GALLATIN. 

John Jacob Astor, Esq. , New York. 

Notices of the Present State of the Fur Trade, chiefly extracted from an article published in Silliman's Magazinefor January, 1834. 

THE Northwest Company did not long enjoy the sway they had acquiredover the trading regions of the Columbia. A competition, ruinous inits expenses, which had long existed between them and the Hudson's BayCompany, ended in their downfall and the ruin of most of the partners. The relict of the company became merged in the rival association, andthe whole business was conducted under the name of the Hudson's BayCompany. 

This coalition took place in 1821. They then abandoned Astoria, andbuilt a large establishment sixty miles up the river, on the rightbank, which they called Fort Vancouver. This was in a neighborhood whereprovisions could be more readily procured, and where there was lessdanger from molestation by any naval force. The company are said tocarry on an active and prosperous trade, and to give great encouragementto settlers. They are extremely jealous, however, of any interferenceor participation in their trade, and monopolize it from the coast of thePacific to the mountains, and for a considerable extent north and south. The American traders and trappers who venture across the mountains, instead of enjoying the participation in the trade of the river and itstributaries, that had been stipulated by treaty, are obliged to keep tothe south, out of the track of the Hudson's Bay parties. 

Mr. Astor has withdrawn entirely from the American Fur Company, as hehas, in fact, from active business of every kind. That company isnow headed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks; its principal establishment is atMichilimackinac, and it receives its furs from the posts depending onthat station, and from those on the Mississippi, Missouri, and YellowStone Rivers, and the great range of country extending thence to theRocky Mountains. This company has steamboats in its employ, with whichit ascends the rivers, and penetrates to a vast distance into thebosom of those regions formerly so painfully explored in keel-boatsand barges, or by weary parties on horseback and on foot. The firstirruption of steamboats in the heart of these vast wildernesses is saidto have caused the utmost astonishment and affright among their savageinhabitants. 

In addition to the main companies already mentioned, minor associationshave been formed, which push their way in the most intrepid manner tothe remote parts of the far West, and beyond the mountain barriers. Oneof the most noted of these is Ashley's company, from St. Louis, whotrap for themselves, and drive an extensive trade with the Indians. Thespirit, enterprise, and hardihood of Ashley are themes of the highesteulogy in the far West, and his adventures and exploits furnishabundance of frontier stories. 

Another company of one hundred and fifty persons from New York, formedin 1831, and headed by Captain Bonneville of the United States army, has pushed its enterprise into tracts before but little known, and hasbrought considerable quantities of furs from the region between theRocky Mountains and the coasts of Monterey and Upper California, on theBuenaventura and Timpanogos rivers. 

The fur countries, from the Pacific, east to the Rocky Mountains, arenow occupied (exclusive of private combinations and individual trappersand traders) by the Russians; and on the northwest from Behring's Straitto Queen Charlotte's Island, in north latitude fifty-three degrees, andby the Hudson's Bay Company thence, south of the Columbia River; whileAshley's company, and that under Captain Bonneville, take the remainderof the region to California. Indeed, the whole compass from theMississippi to the Pacific Ocean is traversed in every direction. Themountains and forests, from the Arctic Sea to the Gulf of Mexico, arethreaded through every maze, by the hunter. Every river and tributarystream, from the Columbia to the mouth of the Rio del Norte, and fromthe M'Kenzie to the Colorado of the West, from their head springs totheir junction, are searched and trapped for beaver. Almost all theAmerican furs, which do not belong to the Hudson's Bay Company, findtheir way to New York, and are either distributed thence for homeconsumption, or sent to foreign markets. 

The Hudson's Bay Company ship their furs from their factories of YorkFort and from Moose River, on Hudson's Bay; their collection from GrandRiver, &c. , they ship from Canada; and the collection from Columbia goesto London. None of their furs come to the United States, except throughthe London market. 

The export trade of furs from the United States is chiefly to London. Some quantities have been sent to Canton, and some few to Hamburg; andan increasing export trade in beaver, otter, nutria, and vicunia wool, prepared for the hatter's use, is carried on in Mexico. Some furs areexported from Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Boston; but the principalshipments from the United States are from New York to London, fromwhence they are sent to Leipsic, a well-known mart for furs, where theyare disposed of during the great fair in that city, and distributed toevery part of the continent. 

The United States import from South America, nutria, vicunia, chinchilla, and a few deer-skins; also fur seals from the Lobos Islands, off the river Plate. A quantity of beaver, otter, &c. , are broughtannually from Santa Fe. Dressed furs for edgings, linings, caps, muffs, &c. , such as squirrel, genet, fitch-skins, and blue rabbit, arereceived from the north of Europe; also cony and hare's fur; but thelargest importations are from London, where is concentrated nearly thewhole of the North American fur trade. 

Such is the present state of the fur trade, by which it will appear thatthe extended sway of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the monopoly ofthe region of which Astoria was the key, has operated to turn the maincurrent of this opulent trade into the coffers of Great Britain, andto render London the emporium instead of New York, as Mr. Astor hadintended. 

We will subjoin a few observations on the animals sought after in thistraffic, extracted from the same intelligent source with the precedingremarks. 

Of the fur-bearing animals, "the precious ermine, " so called by way ofpreeminence, is found, of the best quality, only in the cold regions ofEurope and Asia. * Its fur is of the most perfect whiteness, except thetip of its tail, which is of a brilliant shining black. With these backtips tacked on the skins, they are beautifully spotted, producing aneffect often imitated, but never equalled in other furs. The ermine isof the genus mustela (weasel), and resembles the common weasel in itsform, is from fourteen to sixteen inches from the tip of the nose to theend of the tail. The body is from ten to twelve inches long. It livesin hollow trees, river banks, and especially in beech forests; preyson small birds, is very shy, sleeping during the day, and employing thenight in search of food. The fur of the older animals is preferred tothe younger. It is taken by snares and traps, and sometimes shot withblunt arrows. Attempts have been made to domesticate it; but it isextremely wild and has been found untameable. 

The sable can scarcely be called second to the ermine. It is a nativeof Northern Europe and Siberia, and is also of the genus mustela. InSamoieda, Yakutsk, Kamtschatka, and Russian Lapland, it is found ofthe richest quality, and darkest color. In its habits, it resembles theermine. It preys on small squirrels and birds, sleeps by day, and prowlsfor food during the night. It is so like the marten in every particularexcept its size, and the dark shade of its color, that naturalists havenot decided whether it is the richest and finest of the marten tribe, or a variety of that species: It varies in dimensions from eighteen totwenty inches. 

The rich dark shades of the sable, and the snowy whiteness of theermine, the great depth, and the peculiar, almost flowing softness oftheir skins and fur, have combined to gain them a preference in allcountries, and in all ages of the world. In this age, they maintain thesame relative estimate in regard to other furs, as when they marked therank of the proud crusader, and were emblazoned in heraldry: but in mostEuropean nations, they are now worn promiscuously by the opulent. 

The martens from Northern Asia and the Mountains of Kamtschatka are muchsuperior to the American, though in every pack of American marten skinsthere are a certain number which are beautifully shaded, and of a darkbrown olive color, of great depth and richness. 

Next these in value, for ornament and utility, are the sea-otter, themink, and the fiery fox. 

The fiery fox is the bright red of Asia; is more brilliantly colored andof finer fur than any other of the genus. It is highly valued forthe splendor of its red color and the fineness of its fur. It is thestandard of value on the northeastern coast of Asia. 

The sea-otter which was first introduced into commerce in 1725, from theAleutian and Kurile Islands, is an exceedingly fine, soft, close fur, jet black in winter, with a silken gloss. The fur of the young animalis of a beautiful brown color. It is met with in great abundance inBehring's Island, Kamtschatka, Aleutian and Fox Islands, and is alsotaken on the opposite coasts of North America. It is sometimes takenwith nets, but more frequently with clubs and spears. Their food isprincipally lobster and other shell-fish. 

In 1780 furs had become so scarce in Siberia that the supply wasinsufficient for the demand in the Asiatic countries. It was at thistime that the sea-otter was introduced into the markets for China. The skins brought such incredible prices, as to originate immediatelyseveral American and British expeditions to the northern islands of thePacific, to Nootka Sound, and the northwest coast of America; but theRussians already had possession of the tract which they now hold, andhad arranged a trade for the sea-otter with the Koudek tribes. They donot engross the trade, however; the American northwest trading shipsprocure them, all along the coast, from the Indians. 

At one period, the fur seals formed no inconsiderable item in the trade. South Georgia, in south latitude fifty-five degrees, discovered in1675, was explored by Captain Cook in 1771. The Americans immediatelycommenced carrying seal skins thence to China, where they obtained themost exorbitant prices. One million two hundred thousand skins have beentaken from that island alone, and nearly an equal number from the Islandof Desolation, since they were first resorted to for the purpose ofcommerce. 

The discovery of the South Shetlands, sixty-three degrees southlatitude, in 1818, added surprisingly to the trade in fur seals. Thenumber taken from the South Shetlands in 1821 and 1822 amounted to threehundred and twenty thousand. This valuable animal is now almost extinctin all these islands, owing to the exterminating system adopted by thehunters. They are still taken on the Lobos Islands, where the providentgovernment of Montevideo restrict the fishery, or hunting, withincertain limits, which insures an annual return of the seals. At certainseasons, these amphibia, for the purpose of renewing their coat, come upon the dark frowning rocks and precipices, where there is not a trace ofvegetation. In the middle of January, the islands are partially clearedof snow, where a few patches of short straggling grass spring up infavorable situations; but the seals do not resort to it for food. Theyremain on the rocks not less than two months, without any sustenance, when they return much emaciated to the sea. 

Bears of various species and colors, many varieties of the fox, thewolf, the beaver, the otter, the marten, the raccoon, the badger, thewolverine, the mink, the lynx, the muskrat, the woodchuck, the rabbit, the hare, and the squirrel, are natives of North America. 

The beaver, otter, lynx fisher, hare, and raccoon, are used principallyfor hats; while the bears of several varieties furnish an excellentmaterial for sleigh linings, for cavalry caps, and other militaryequipments. The fur of the black fox is the most valuable of any of theAmerican varieties; and next to that the red, which is exported to Chinaand Smyrna. In China, the red is employed for trimmings, linings, androbes; the latter being variegated by adding the black fur of the paws, in spots or waves. There are many other varieties of American fox, suchas the gray, the white, the cross, the silver, and the dun-colored. Thesilver fox is a rare animal, a native of the woody country below thefalls of the Columbia River. It has a long, thick, deep lead-coloredfur, intermingled with long hairs, invariably white at the top, forminga bright lustrous silver gray, esteemed by some more beautiful than anyother kind of fox. 

The skins of the buffalo, of the Rocky Mountain sheep, of various deerand of the antelope, are included in the fur trade with the Indians andtrappers of the north and west. 

Fox and seal skins are sent from Greenland to Denmark. The white fur ofthe arctic fox and polar bear is sometimes found in the packs broughtto the traders by the most northern tribes of Indians, but is notparticularly valuable. The silver-tipped rabbit is peculiar to England, and is sent thence to Russia and China. 

Other furs are employed and valued according to the caprices of fashion, as well in those countries where they are needed for defenses againstthe severity of the seasons, as among the inhabitants of milderclimates, who, severely of Tartar or Sclavonian descent, are said toinherit an attachment to furred clothing. Such are the inhabitants ofPoland, of Southern Russia, of China, of Persia, of Turkey, and allthe nations of Gothic origin in the middle and western parts of Europe. Under the burning suns of Syria and Egypt, and the mild climes ofBucharia and Independent Tartary, there is also a constant demand, and agreat consumption, where there exists no physical necessity. In our owntemperate latitudes, besides their use in the arts, they are in requestfor ornament and warmth during the winter, and large quantities areannually consumed for both purposes in the United States. 

From the foregoing statements, it appears that the fur trade musthenceforward decline. The advanced state of geographical science showsthat no new countries remain to be explored. In North America theanimals are slowly decreasing, from the persevering efforts andthe indiscriminate slaughter practiced by the hunters, and by theappropriation to the uses of man of those forests and rivers which haveafforded them food and protection. They recede with the aborigines, before the tide of civilization; but a diminished supply will remain inthe mountains and uncultivated tracts of this and other countries, ifthe avidity of the hunter can be restrained within proper limitations. 

 * An animal called the stoat, a kind of ermine, is said to be found in North America, but very inferior to the European and Asiatic. 

 * * The finest fur and the darkest color are most esteemed; and whether the difference arises from the age of the animal, or from some peculiarity of location, is not known. They do not vary more from the common marten than the Arabian horse from the shaggy Canadian. 

Height of the Rocky Mountains. 

VARIOUS estimates have been made of the height of the Rocky Mountains, but it is doubtful whether any have, as yet, done justice to theirreal altitude, which promises to place them only second to the highestmountains of the known world. Their height has been diminished to theeye by the great elevation of the plains from which they rise. Theyconsist, according to Long, of ridges, knobs, and peaks, variouslydisposed. The more elevated parts are covered with perpetual snows, which contribute to give them a luminous, and, at a great distance, even a brilliant appearance; whence they derive, among some of the firstdiscoverers, the name of the Shining Mountains. 

James's Peak has generally been cited as the highest of the chain;and its elevation above the common level has been ascertained, by atrigonometrical measurement, to be about eight thousand five hundredfeet. Mr. Long, however, judged, from the position of the snow near thesummits of other peaks and ridges at no great distance from it, thatthey were much higher. Having heard Professor Renwick, of New York, express an opinion of the altitude of these mountains far beyond whathad usually been ascribed to them, we applied to him for the authorityon which he grounded his observation, and here subjoin his reply:

Columbia College, New York, February 23, 1836. 

Dear Sir, --In compliance with your request, I have to communicate somefacts in relation to the heights of the Rocky Mountains, and the sourceswhence I obtained the information. 

In conversation with Simon M'Gillivray, Esq. , a partner of the NorthwestCompany, he stated to me his impression, that the mountains in thevicinity of the route pursued by the traders of that company were nearlyas high as the Himalayas. He had himself crossed by this route, seenthe snowy summits of the peaks, and experienced a degree of cold whichrequired a spirit thermometer to indicate it. His authority for theestimate of the heights was a gentleman who had been employed forseveral years as surveyor of that company. This conversation occurredabout sixteen years since. 

A year or two afterwards, I had the pleasure of dining, at MajorDelafield's with Mr. Thompson, the gentleman referred to by Mr. M'Gillivray. I inquired of him in relation to the circumstancesmentioned by Mr. M'Gillivray, and he stated that, by the joint meansof the barometric and trigonometric measurement, he had ascertained theheight of one of the peaks to be about twenty-five thousand feet, andthere were others of nearly the same height in the vicinity. 

I am, dear sir, To W. Irving, Esq. Yours truly, JAMES RENWICK. 

Suggestions with respect to the Indian tribes, and the protection of our Trade. 

IN the course of this work, a few general remarks have been hazardedrespecting the Indian tribes of the prairies, and the dangers to beapprehended from them in future times to our trade beyond the RockyMountains and with the Spanish frontiers. Since writing those remarks, we have met with some excellent observations and suggestions, inmanuscript, on the same subject, written by Captain Bonneville, of theUnited States army, who had lately returned from a long residence amongthe tribes of the Rocky Mountains. Captain B. Approves highly ofthe plan recently adopted by the United States government for theorganization of a regiment of dragoons for the protection of our westernfrontier, and the trade across the prairies. "No other species ofmilitary force, " he observes, "is at all competent to cope with theserestless and wandering hordes, who require to be opposed with swiftnessquite as much as with strength; and the consciousness that a troop, uniting these qualifications, is always on the alert to avenge theiroutrages upon the settlers and traders, will go very far towardsrestraining them from the perpetration of those thefts and murders whichthey have heretofore committed with impunity, whenever stratagem orsuperiority of force has given them the advantage. Their interestalready has done something towards their pacification with ourcountrymen. From the traders among them, they receive their supplies inthe greatest abundance, and upon very equitable terms; and when itis remembered that a very considerable amount of property is yearlydistributed among them by the government, as presents, it will readilybe perceived that they are greatly dependent upon us for their mostvalued resources. If, superadded to this inducement, a frequent displayof military power be made in their territories, there can be littledoubt that the desired security and peace will be speedily affordedto our own people. But the idea of establishing a permanent amity andconcord amongst the various east and west tribes themselves, seems tome, if not wholly impracticable, at least infinitely more difficult thanmany excellent philanthropists have hoped and believed. Those nationswhich have so lately emigrated from the midst of our settlements to liveupon our western borders, and have made some progress in agriculture andthe arts of civilization, have, in the property they have acquired, and the protection and aid extended to them, too many advantages to beinduced readily to take up arms against us, particularly if they can bebrought to the full conviction that their new homes will be permanentand undisturbed; and there is every reason and motive, in policy as wellas humanity, for our ameliorating their condition by every means inour power. But the case is far different with regard to the Osages, theKanzas, the Pawnees, and other roving hordes beyond the frontiers of thesettlements. Wild and restless in their character and habits, they areby no means so susceptible of control or civilization; and they areurged by strong, and, to them, irresistible causes in their situationand necessities, to the daily perpetuation of violence and fraud. Theirpermanent subsistence, for example, is derived from the buffalo huntinggrounds, which lie a great distance from their towns. Twice a yearthey are obliged to make long and dangerous expeditions, to procure thenecessary provisions for themselves and their families. For this purposehorses are absolutely requisite, for their own comfort and safety, aswell as for the transportation of their food, and their little stockof valuables; and without them they would be reduced, during a greatportion of the year, to a state of abject misery and privation. Theyhave no brood mares, nor any trade sufficiently valuable to supply theiryearly losses, and endeavor to keep up their stock by stealing horsesfrom the other tribes to the west and southwest. Our own people, and thetribes immediately upon our borders, may indeed be protected fromtheir depredations; and the Kanzas, Osages, Pawnees, and others, maybe induced to remain at peace among themselves, so long as they arepermitted to pursue the old custom of levying upon the Camanches andother remote nations for their complement of steeds for the warriors, and pack-horses for their transportation to and from the hunting ground. But the instant they are forced to maintain a peaceful and inoffensivedemeanor towards the tribes along the Mexican border, and find thatevery violation of their rights is followed by the avenging arm of ourgovernment, the result must be, that, reduced to a wretchedness and wantwhich they can ill brook, and feeling the certainty of punishment forevery attempt to ameliorate their condition in the only way they as yetcomprehend, they will abandon their unfruitful territory and remove tothe neighborhood of the Mexican lands, and there carry on a vigorouspredatory warfare indiscriminately upon the Mexicans and our own peopletrading or travelling in that quarter. 

"The Indians of the prairies are almost innumerable. Their superiorhorsemanship, which in my opinion, far exceeds that of any other peopleon the face of the earth, their daring bravery, their cunning and skillin the warfare of the wilderness, and the astonishing rapidity andsecrecy with which they are accustomed to move in their martialexpeditions, will always render them most dangerous and vexatiousneighbors, when their necessities or their discontents may drive them tohostility with our frontiers. Their mode and principles of warfare willalways protect them from final and irretrievable defeat, and securetheir families from participating in any blow, however severe, which ourretribution might deal out to them. 

"The Camanches lay the Mexicans under contribution for horses andmules, which they are always engaged in stealing from them in incrediblenumbers; and from the Camanches, all the roving tribes of the far West, by a similar exertion of skill and daring, supply themselves in turn. Itseems to me, therefore, under all these circumstances, that the apparentfutility of any philanthropic schemes for the benefit of these nations, and a regard for our own protection, concur in recommending that weremain satisfied with maintaining peace upon our own immediate borders, and leave the Mexicans and the Camanches, and all the tribes hostile tothese last, to settle their differences and difficulties in their ownway. 

"In order to give full security and protection to our trading partiescirculating in all directions through the great prairies, I am under theimpression that a few judicious measures on the part of the government, involving a very limited expense, would be sufficient. And, in attainingthis end, which of itself has already become an object of publicinterest and import, another, of much greater consequence, might bebrought about, namely, the securing to the States a most valuable andincreasing trade, now carried on by caravans directly to Santa Fe. 

"As to the first desideratum: the Indians can only be made to respectthe lives and property of the American parties, by rendering themdependent upon us for their supplies; which alone can be done withcomplete effect by the establishment of a trading post, with residenttraders, at some point which will unite a sufficient number ofadvantages to attract the several tribes to itself, in preference totheir present places of resort for that purpose; for it is a well-knownfact that the Indians will always protect their trader, and those inwhom he is interested, so long as they derive benefits from him. Thealternative presented to those at the north, by the residence of theagents of the Hudson's Bay Company amongst them, renders the conditionof our people in that quarter less secure; but I think it will appear atonce, upon the most cursory examination, that no such opposition furthersouth could be maintained, so as to weaken the benefits of such anestablishment as is here suggested. 

"In considering this matter, the first question which presents itselfis, where do these tribes now make their exchanges, and obtain theirnecessary supplies. They resort almost exclusively to the Mexicans, who, themselves, purchase from us whatever the Indians most seek for. In thispoint of view, therefore, coeteris paribus, it would be an easy matterfor us to monopolize the whole traffic. All that is wanted is somelocation more convenient for the natives than that offered by theMexicans, to give us the undisputed superiority; and the selection ofsuch a point requires but a knowledge of the single fact, that thesenations invariably winter upon the head waters of the Arkansas, andthere prepare all their buffalo robes for trade. These robes are heavy, and, to the Indian, very difficult of transportation. Nothingbut necessity induces them to travel any great distance with suchinconvenient baggage. A post, therefore, established upon the headwaters of the Arkansas, must infallibly secure an uncontested preferenceover that of the Mexicans; even at their prices and rates of barter. Then let the dragoons occasionally move about among these people inlarge parties, impressing them with the proper estimate of our power toprotect and to punish, and at once we have complete and assured securityfor all citizens whose enterprise may lead them beyond the border, andan end to the outrages and depredations which now dog the footstepsof the traveller, in the prairies, and arrest and depress the mostadvantageous commerce. Such a post need not be stronger than fifty men;twenty-five to be employed as hunters, to supply the garrison, and theresidue as a defense against any hostility. Situated here upon the goodlands of the Arkansas, in the midst of abundance of timber, while itmight be kept up at a most inconsiderable expense, such an establishmentwithin ninety miles of Santa Fe or Taos would be more than justified bythe other and more important advantages before alluded to, leaving theprotection of the traders with the Indian tribes entirely out of thequestion. 

"This great trade, carried on by caravans to Santa Fe, annually loadsone hundred wagons with merchandise, which is bartered in the northernprovinces or Mexico for cash and for beaver furs. The numerous articlesexcluded as contraband, and the exorbitant duties laid upon all thosethat are admitted by the Mexican government, present so many obstaclesto commerce, that I am well persuaded, that if a post, such as is heresuggested, should be established on the Arkansas, it would become theplace of deposit, not only for the present trade, but for one infinitelymore extended. Here the Mexicans might purchase their supplies, andmight well afford to sell them at prices which would silence allcompetition from any other quarter. 

"These two trades, with the Mexicans and the Indians, centring at thispost, would give rise to a large village of traders and laborers, and would undoubtedly be hailed, by all that section of country, as apermanent and invaluable advantage. A few pack-horses would carry allthe clothing and ammunition necessary for the post during the firstyear, and two light field-pieces would be all the artillery requiredfor its defense. Afterwards, all the horses required for the use of theestablishment might be purchased from the Mexicans at the low priceof ten dollars each; and, at the same time, whatever animals mightbe needed to supply the losses among the dragoons traversing theneighborhood, could be readily procured. The Upper Missouri Indians canfurnish horses, at very cheap rates, to any number of the same troopswho might be detailed for the defense of the northern frontier; and, inother respects, a very limited outlay of money would suffice to maintaina post in that section of the country. 

"From these considerations, and my own personal observations, I am, therefore, disposed to believe that two posts established by thegovernment, one at the mouth of the Yellowstone River, and one on theArkansas, would completely protect all our people in every section ofthe great wilderness of the West; while other advantages, at least withregard to one of them, confirm and urge the suggestion. A fort at themouth of the Yellowstone, garrisoned by fifty men would be perfectlysafe. The establishment might be constructed simply with a view to thestores, stables for the dragoons' horses, and quarters for the regulargarrison; the rest being provided with sheds or lodges, erected in thevicinity, for their residence during the winter months. "