AN ENGLISHMAN'S TRAVELS IN AMERICA:

His Observations Of Life and Manners in the Free and Slave States. 

1857

BY J. BENWELL. 

PREFACE. 

Personal narrative and adventure has, of late years, become sointeresting a subject in the mind of the British public, that the authorfeels he is not called upon to apologize for the production of thefollowing pages. 

It was his almost unremitting practice, during the four years he residedon the North American continent, to keep a record of what he consideredof interest around him; not with a view to publishing the matter thuscollected, for this was far from his thoughts at the time, but through along contracted habit of dotting down transpiring events, for thefuture amusement, combined, perhaps, with instruction, of himself andfriends. It therefore became necessary, to fit it for publication, tocollate the accumulated memoranda, and select such portions only asmight be supposed to prove interesting to the general reader. In doingthis he has been careful to preserve the phraseology as much aspossible, with a view to give, as far as he could, something like aliteral transcript of the sentiments that gave rise to the originalminutes, and avoid undue addition or interpolation. 

It was the wish and intention of the writer, before leaving England, toextend his travels by visiting some of the islands in the Caribbean Sea, a course which he regrets not having been able to follow, fromunforeseen circumstances, which are partially related in the followingpages. He laments this the more, as it would have added considerably tothe interest of the work, and enabled him to enlarge upon that fertilesubject, the relative position at the time of the negro race in thoseislands, and the demoralized condition of their fellow-countrymen, underthe iniquitous system of slavery, as authorized by statute law, in thesouthern states of America. As it was, he was enabled to travel throughthe most populous parts of the states of New York and Ohio, proceeding, _viâ_ Cincinnati, to the Missouri country; after a brief stay at St. Louis, taking the direct southern route down the Missouri andMississippi rivers, to New Orleans in Louisiana, passing Natchez on theway. The whole tour comprising upwards of three thousand miles. 

From New Orleans he crossed an arm of the Gulf of Mexico to theFloridas, and after remaining in that territory for a considerable time, and taking part under a sense of duty in a campaign (more to scatterthan annihilate), against the Seminole and Cherokee tribes of Indians, who, in conjunction with numberless fugitive slaves, from the districtsa hundred miles round, were devastating the settlements, andindiscriminately butchering the inhabitants, he returned to Tallahassee, taking stage at that town to Macon in the state of Georgia, and fromthence by the Greensborough Railway to Charleston in South Carolina, sailing after rather a prolonged stay, from that port to England. 

Some of the incidents related in the following pages will be found tobear upon, and tend forcibly to corroborate, the miseries so patientlyendured by the African race, in a vaunted land of freedom andenlightenment, whose inhabitants assert, with ridiculous tenacity, thattheir government and laws are based upon the principle, "That all men inthe sight of God are equal, " and the wrongs of whose victims have oflate been so touchingly and truthfully illustrated by that eminentphilanthropist, Mrs. Stowe, to the eternal shame of the upholders of thesystem, and the fearful incubus of guilt and culpability that willrender for ever infamous, if the policy is persisted in, the nationalityof America. 

Well may the benevolent Doctor Percival in his day have said, whenwriting on the iniquitous system of slave holding and traffic, that"Life and liberty with the powers of enjoyment dependent on them are thecommon and inalienable gifts of bounteous heaven. To seize them by forceis rapine; to exchange for them the wares of Manchester or Birminghan isimprobity, for it is to barter without reciprocal gain, to give thestones of the brook for the gold of Ophir. "

THE ENGLISHMAN IN AMERICA. 

CHAPTER I. 

 "Adieu, adieu! my native shore Fades o'er the waters blue, The night-winds sigh, the breakers roar, And shrieks the wild sea-mew. Yon sun that sets upon the sea We follow in his flight; Farewell awhile to him and thee, My native Land--Good night!"--BYRON. 

Late in the fall of the year 18--, I embarked on board the ship _Cosmo_, bound from the port of Bristol to that of New York. The season wasunpropitious, the lingering effects of the autumnal equinox rendering itmore than probable that the passage would be tempestuous. The resultsoon proved the correctness of this surmise, for soon after the vesseldeparted from Kingroad, and before she got clear of the English coast, we experienced boisterous weather, which was followed by a successionof gales, that rendered our situation perilous. But a partialdestruction of the rigging, the loss of some sheep on the deck of thevessel, and a slight indication of leakage, which was soon remedied bythe carpenter of the ship and his assistants, were happily the onlydetrimental consequences arising from the weather. 

Our progress on the whole was satisfactory, although, when we arrivedbetween 48 and 52 degrees north latitude, we narrowly escaped coming incontact with an enormous iceberg, two of which were descried at daybreakby the "look-out, " floundering majestically a little on the ship'slarboard quarter, not far distant, the alarm being raised by an uproaron deck that filled my mind with dire apprehension, the lee bulwarks ofthe vessel were in five minutes thronged with half-naked passengers, whohad been roused unexpectedly from their slumbers, staring in terror atthe frigid masses which we momentarily feared would overwhelm the ship. The helm being put up, we were soon out of the threatened danger of acollision, which would have consigned us to a grave in the wide widewaters, without the remotest chance of escape. This consideration was, to all on board, a matter of deep thankfulness to the mighty Author ofsuch stupendous wonders, who had so miraculously preserved our lives. Had the adventure occurred in the night, our destruction must have beeninevitable, as the ship was sailing under heavy canvas, within a singlepoint of the wake of one of the icebergs, which was drifting before astiff breeze. 

Although this encounter proved harmless, we shortly after had another todread of a fearful nature. The number of fishing-boats off the coast ofNewfoundland, makes the navigation perilous at almost any time tovessels approaching too near the banks, and after night-fall, the vesselgoing at the rate of ten knots an hour with a smacking breeze, we passedmany of these at anchor, or rather, I suppose, riding on the waves; theydisplayed lights, or serious consequences might have ensued. Some of theskiffs were so near to us, that as I leaned over the ship'squarter-rail, dreading, and every moment expecting, that we should runone down, I could distinctly hear the crews hailing us to shorten sailand keep off. By adopting this course our vessel cleared the danger, andafter slightly touching the banks, which caused the vessel to heel, andcreated a momentary panic on board amongst the passengers, she wassteered more out to sea, and by the following morning nothing was to beseen but a boundless waste of waters, extending as far as the eye couldreach. 

After these temporary alarms, with the exception of baffling winds, which impeded the progress of the ship, and lengthened the duration ofour confinement ten days or a fortnight, our voyage was prosperous, little occurring to break the monotony of confinement on ship-board thatis experienced in sea-passages in general; the only excitement being afracas between the captain and cook, owing to complaints made by themiddle-cabin and steerage passengers, which nearly ended fatally to theformer, who would have been stabbed to a certainty, but for a by-standerwresting the knife from the hand of the enraged subordinate, who hadbeen supplied too liberally with spirits by the passengers; apredominating evil on board all emigrant ships, from the drawback ofduty allowed on spirits shipped as stores, and which are retailed on thevoyage to the passengers. The culprit was confined below during theremainder of the voyage, and when we arrived at New York presented apitiable sight, having been rigidly debarred by the captain's orders ofmany of the commonest necessaries, I believe, the whole time. Here hewas released and discharged from the ship, glad enough to escape furtherpunishment, "prosecution" having been, since the occurrence, held _interrorem_ over him. 

It was late in the afternoon of an intensely cold day, which caused thespray to congeal as it dashed against the bulwarks and cordage of thevessel, that we descried with great pleasure looming indistinctly in thedistance, the shores of Sandy Hook, a desolate-looking island, near thecoast of New Jersey, about seven miles south of Long Island Sound. Thisthe captain informed me was formerly a peninsula, but the isthmus wasbroken through by the sea in 1767, the year after the declaration ofAmerican independence, an occurrence which was at the time deemedominous of the severance of the colonies from the mother country, andwhich proved in reality to be the precursor of that event. 

The sight of _terra firma_, though at a distance and but gloomy inaspect, put all on board in buoyant spirits; but these were buttransitory, our enthusiasm being soon damped by a dense fog, resemblingthose the Londoners are so accustomed to see in the winter, and which inan incredibly short space of time, in this instance, obscured everythingaround. Our proximity to the shore rendered the circumstance hazardousto us, and it appeared necessary that the vessel's head should be againput seaward; but this the captain was evidently anxious to avoid, as itinvolved the risk of protracting the voyage. A general rummage forammunition was therefore ordered, and a supply of this necessary havingbeen obtained, the ship's carronade was after considerable delay put inorder, and minute guns were fired. After discharging some thirty roundsor more, we were relieved from the state of anxiety we were in by apilot hailing the ship, and in a minute after he was on deck issuingorders with great pertinacity. 

It is impossible for any one unaccustomed to sea voyages to form a justconception of the relief afforded by the presence of that importantfunctionary, a pilot. Perhaps a captain's greatest anxiety is, when hisvessel, having braved a thousand perils on the deep, is about to enteron the termination of its voyage. On the broad expanse of ocean, or, innautical phrase, with plenty of sea-room, if his bark is in goodcondition, he fears little or nothing, but when his vessel approachesits goal, visions of disaster arise before him, and he becomes anxious, thoughtful, and taciturn. 

The pilot informed us that he had kept our vessel in chase for aconsiderable time, and had burnt a number of newspapers on the deck ofhis cutter to attract attention, but all his efforts proved unavailing, when just as he was about to abandon the pursuit, he descried and hailedthe ship. This being the first specimen of an American whom many of thepassengers had seen in his native climate, their curiosity was aroused, and they crowded round him, regarding every word and movement with thegreatest attention and interest. The pilot was evidently displeased withbeing made "a lion" of, and gave vent to his feelings rather freely, while there was a curl of hauteur on his lip, that indicated a speciesof contempt for the company he was in. This disposition did not convey avery favourable idea of his countrymen, and was, to say the least of it, an ill-judged display before strangers; coming, however, as it did, froman illiterate man, belonging, as I knew from previous inquiry, to ratheran exceptional class of individuals in America, I did not suffer my mindto be biassed, although I could see that many of the passengers were notdisposed to view the matter in the same light. He was a brusque anduncouth man, of swaggering gait, about forty years of age, above themiddle stature, and soon let the captain and crew know, by hisauthoritative manner and volubility of tongue, that he was chief incommand on the occasion. No one seemed, however, to dispute this, forthe passengers looked on him as a sort of divinity sent to their rescue;the ship's hands were implicitly obedient, and the captain very soonafter his arrival retired into the cabin, glad to be relieved from aheavy responsibility. 

The following morning, the haze having cleared off, we could again seethe Jersey shore. The sea in every direction was now darkened withmillions of black gulls, wild ducks, and other aquatic birds; we shotmany of these from the ship's deck, but were, much to our mortification, obliged to see them drift away, the pilot, seconded by our austerecaptain, strenuously objecting to a boat being lowered; this was verydiscouraging, as such a change in our diet would, after a ratherprolonged voyage, have been acceptable. 

A favourable breeze soon carried our good ship to the quarantine ground, where we dropped anchor, in no little anxiety lest we should bedetained. The medical officers from the college, or rather sanatoryestablishment, on shore, almost immediately came on board. All handswere mustered on deck, and ranged like soldiers on parade ground bythese important functionaries, who, I may remark by the way, appearedlike our pilot to be possessed of considerable notions of power andauthority. After taking a rather cursory inspection they left thevessel, and we, to our great joy (a case of small pox having occurredduring the passage), were allowed to proceed towards New York, which wedid under easy sail, the breeze rendering a steam-tug unnecessary. 

The scenery as we passed up the river was calculated to give a goodimpression of the country, the zest being, however, without doubt, greatly heightened by the monotonous dreariness of a tempestuous voyage. The highlands and valleys, as we sailed up, had a verdant woodyappearance, and were interspersed with rural and chateau scenery; herdsof cattle remarkable for length of horn, and snow-white sheep, weregrazing placidly in the lowlands. The country, as far as I could judge, seemed in a high state of culture, and the farms, to use an expressionof the celebrated Washington Irving's, when describing, I think, afarm-yard view in England, appeared "redolent of pigs, poultry, andsundry other good things appertaining to rural life. "

On arriving at the approach to the entrance or mouth of the riverHudson, which is formed by an arm of the estuary, we turned thepromontory, leaving Jersey on the left, the battery as we entered theharbour being in the foreground. The guns-bristled from this fortresswith menacing aspect, and the sentinels, in light blue uniforms andKosciusko caps, silently paced the ramparts with automatic regularity. This fortification, though formidable in appearance, and certainly in acommanding position, I was subsequently informed is little more than amimic fort; this arises from the want of attention paid to defences ofthe kind in America, the little existing chance of invasion, perhaps, causing the indifference to the subject. If, however, the spirit ofaggressive conquest shown by the federal government, of late years, ofwhich the invasion of Mexico is a fair specimen, should continue todevelop itself, it is not difficult to foresee that it will be necessarypolicy to pay greater attention to the subject, and to keep in a moreeffective state the seaboard defences of the country, as well as theirarmy, which is at present miserably deficient. This has heretofore beenso far neglected, as regards the marine, that not long before I arrivedthe commander of a French ship of war was much chagrined, on firing asalute as he passed the battery at New York, to find that his courtesywas not returned in the customary way. He complained of the omission aseither a mark of disrespect to himself, or an insult to his nation, whenit came out in explanation that the garrison was in such a defectivestate that there were not the appliances at hand to observe thisnational etiquette. 

The city of New York is built almost close to the water's edge, with abroad levee or wharf running round a great portion of it. Its generalappearance gives to a stranger an impression of its extent andimportance. It has been aptly and accurately described as a dense packof buildings, comprising every imaginable variety, and of all knownorders of modernized architecture. The tide flows close up to thewharves which run outside of the city, and differs so little in heightat ebb or flow, that vessels of the largest class ride, I believe, atall times as safely as in the West India docks in London, or theimperial docks of Liverpool. Here was assembled an incalculable numberof vessels of all sizes and all nations, forming a beautiful andpicturesque view of commercial enterprise and grandeur, perhaps outvyingevery other port in the world, not excepting Liverpool itself. 

As our vessel could not at once be accommodated with a berth, owing tothe crowded state of the harbour, she was moored in the middle of thestream, and being anxious to go on shore, I availed myself of thecaptain's offer to take me to the landing-place in his gig. We went onshore in an alcove, at the foot of Wall-street, and I experienced themost delightful sensation on once more setting foot on _terra firma_, after our dreary voyage. The day, notwithstanding it was now October, was intensely hot (although a severe frost for two or three days beforegave indications of approaching winter), and the streets beingunmacadamized, had that arid look we read of in accounts of the plainsof Arabia, the dust being quite deep, and exceeding in quantity anythingof the kind I had ever seen in European cities: clouds of itimpregnated the air, and rendered respiration and sight difficult. 

Hundreds of rudely-constructed drays were passing to and fro, heavilyladen with merchandize, many of them drawn by mules, and the remainderby very light horses of Arabian build; the heavy English dray horse wasnowhere to be seen, the breed as I afterwards learned not beingcultivated, from a dislike to its ponderousness. 

The lower part of Wall-street presented a busy mart-like appearance, every description of goods being piled heterogeneously before thewarehouse-doors of their respective owners in the open thoroughfare, which is at this part very wide. Auctioneers were here busily engaged inthe disposal of their merchandise, which comprised every variety ofproduce and manufacture, home and foreign, from a yard oflinsey-woolsey, "hum spun" as they termed it, to a bale of Manchesterlong cloth, or their own Sea-Island cotton. The auctioneer in America isa curious specimen of the biped creation. He is usually a swaggering, consequential sort of fellow, and drives away at his calling withwondrous impudence and pertinacity, dispensing, all the while he isselling, the most fulsome flattery or the grossest abuse on those whostand around. One of these loquacious animals was holding forth to acrowd, just below the _Courier and Inquirer_ newspaper office, wherethe street widens, as a preliminary introduction to the sale of aquantity of linen goods that had been damaged at a recent fire in theneighbourhood. I could not help admiring the man's tact. Fixing his eyeson an individual in a white dress, with an enormous Leghorn hat on hishead, who was apparently eagerly listening, while smoking a cigar, tothe harangue, he suddenly exclaimed, "There now is Senator Huff, fromthe State of Missouri, he heerd of this vendue a thousand mile up river, and wall knows I'm about to offer somethin woth having; look at him, hecould buy up the fust five hunderd folks hed cum across anywhar in thiscity, and what's more, he's a true patriot, made o' the right kinderstuff, I guess. "

He followed up the eulogium at great length, and after liberallydispensing "soft soap" on the listeners, declared the auction hadcommenced. I stood by for some minutes, gazing around and watching theoperations, and was not long in discovering that Senator Huff keptrunning up the articles by pretended bids, and was evidently in leaguewith him, in fact a confederate. This auctioneer was the very emblem ofbuffoonery and blackguardism; the rapidity with which he repeated thesums, supposed by the bystanders to be bid, the curt yet extravagantpraise bestowed on his wares, and his insulting and unsparing remarks ifa comment were made on the goods he offered, or if the company did notrespond in bidding, stamped him as one of the baser sort of vulgarians. 

Sales of this description were going on in every direction, and thestreet rang with the stentorian voices of the sellers. Many of thesewere mock auctions, as an observer of any intelligence would detect, andas I ascertained beyond doubt almost directly after leaving this man'sstand; for, stepping into an open store close at hand, of which thereare ranges on either side of the street, a sale of jewellery and watcheswas going on. A case of jewellery, containing, among other things, agold watch and chain, apparently of exquisite workmanship, was put upjust as I entered, and was started at six cents per article. Bid afterbid succeeded, until, at last, the lot was knocked down to a southerngentleman present at fifty cents per item. On making the purchase, henaturally wished to know how many articles the box contained. Thisinformation, on the plea that it would delay the sale, was withheld. Theauctioneer, however, insisted on the payment of a deposit of fiftydollars, in compliance with the published conditions of the sale, whichsum, after a demur on the part of the purchaser, was paid. I could see, however, that he was now sensible he had been duped, and I afterwardslearnt that some forty or fifty articles, of almost every fancydescription, many of them worthless, such as pins, knives, tweezers, anda variety of other knick-knacks, were artfully concealed from view, bymeans of a false bottom to the case; this being lifted up revealed thetruth. The man was greatly enraged on finding he had been cheated, butwas treated with the most audacious coolness, and after some altercationleft the store, as he said, to seek redress elsewhere, but I have nodoubt he went off with the intention of losing his deposit. 

This occurrence put me on my guard, and made me very wary of buyingarticles at such auctions during my stay in New York, although theapparent beauty and cheapness of many of the articles I saw offered, especially of French manufacture, were sufficient to decoy the mostwary, and I did not wonder at people being victimized at such places. Emigrants are the chief sufferers, I was told, by such transactions, from their want of caution, and ignorance of the arts of theaccomplished deceivers who conduct them. 

Proceeding up Wall-street in the direction of Broadway, I reached thatportion of it frequented by stock and real-estate brokers. Here crowdsof gentlemanly-looking men, dressed mostly in black, and of busy mien, crowded the thoroughfare with scrip in hand. Each appeared intenselyabsorbed in business, and as I gazed on the assemblage, I coulddiscover unmistakable symptoms of great excitement and mental anxiety, the proportion of rueful countenances being much greater than is usuallyseen in similar places of resort in England; a sudden depression in themarket at the time might, however, account for much of this, although itis well known that brokers and speculators on the American continentengage in the pursuit with the avidity of professed gamblers. 

Hundreds of Negroes were hurrying to and fro through the streets, thesewere chiefly labourers, decently dressed, and employed either as draymenor porters. They looked happier than labourers in England; and, beingbathed in a profuse perspiration from the heat of the weather, theirfaces shone almost like black satin or patent leather. 

After a few days' rest at my boarding-house, to which I was recommendedby a touter, and which was in Canal-street, and was kept by a "cute"Down-easter, or native of the New England States, with whom I engagedfor bed and board for eight dollars per week, I sallied forth to make myintended observations, preparatory to leaving for the west. Everythingwore a novel aspect. The number of foreigners seen in the thoroughfares, the tawdry flimsily-built carriages, which strangely contrast with themore substantial ones seen in England, and the dresses of the people, all seemed strange to me. The habiliments of one or two in particularrivetted my attention. The first was a Kentuckian, who was dressed in asuit of grey home-spun cloth, and wore on his head a fantastical cap, formed of a racoon-skin, beautifully striped, the ears projecting justabove his forehead on each side, while the forefeet of the animal, decorated with red cloth, formed the ear-laps, and the tail dependedover his back like a quieu, producing a ludicrous effect. His appearanceas he passed along attracted little notice, such vagaries being commonin America. My attention was also arrested by a person who was arrayedin a hunting suit of buck-skin, curiously wrought with strips of dyedporcupine-quill, and who wore an otter-skin cap and Indian moccasins. There, is, however, little novelty in this costume, which I frequentlysaw afterwards. Caps of the description I have mentioned are commonlyworn in the interior. I subsequently donned one myself, and found it anadmirable adjunct to easy travelling. 

During my stay at New York, I found the heat almost overpowering, theIndian summer (as the period between autumn and winter is there termed)having set in. An umbrella was quite a necessary appendage at times, toavoid its effects, which are often fatal to Europeans at the time of thesummer solstice. 

In perambulating the city of New York, its appearance is prepossessingto a visitor; the streets are well laid out, and are wide and regular, the houses being for the most part of the better class. The white or redpaint (the latter predominates), and the green and white jalousie, venetian, and siesta blinds, giving a picturesqueness to the scene. Handsome mats lie outside the doors of many of the better description ofhouses. 

Broadway is the principal place of attraction in New York, but it has sooften been described by visitors, that it is a work of supererogation tocomment much upon it here; as, however, every tourist can see anddescribe differently the same objects, I must not pass it in silence, especially as it ranks in the view of the New Yorkers, something asBond-street and Regent-street do in the metropolis of England. It is, however, far inferior to these; it is not one, but a continuous line ofstreets, and, including Canal-street, extends about three miles inlength. The Haarlem Railway comes down a considerable portion of theupper part, the rails being laid in the centre of the street The lowerend of Broadway merges into the Battery Park, which is situated at thewater's edge. In Broadway are to be seen magnificent hotels, theatres, magazines-de-mode, and all the etceteras of a fashionable mart, notomitting to mention crowds of elegantly dressed ladies and exquisitelyattired gentlemen, including many of colour; the latter appearing in theextreme of the fashion, with a redundancy of jewellery which, contrasting with their sable colour, produces to the eye of a strangeran unseemly effect. The shops and stores are fitted up in the Parisianstyle, appear well attended by customers, and are crowded with thechoicest description of goods. 

Astor's Hotel, built by the so-called millionaire of that name, is alarge but rather heavy-looking pile of building, and forms a conspicuousobject in the park. Here many of the élite from the provinces sojourn onvisiting the city. The accommodations are stated to be of the firstorder, and, from a cursory inspection, I should imagine this to be true, the only drawback being the enormous prices charged, exceeding, I wastold, the ordinary run of first-class houses of that description. Noticing from the opposite side of the street that the entrance was muchcrowded, curiosity led me to cross over and ascend the steps and listento what was going on, supposing it some political demonstration; inthis, however, I was mistaken, for I found that the cause of thecommotion was the recent arrival and presence of the celebratedstatesman and lawyer, Daniel Webster, _en route_ to Washington, whitherhe was called by Congressional duties. I pressed forward to shake handswith this great expounder of American laws, as he is called by thecitizens, who seemed, by the way, on the occasion I refer to, to regardhim as a sort of divinity. I could not, however, succeed in getting nearenough to accomplish my object, although I strove hard for it. It wasquite amusing to see the anxiety shown by some of those present toeffect the same purpose. The senator kept shaking hands with all around, repeating over and over again, "Glad to see you, citizens, glad to seeyou. " Amongst others, a gentlemanly-dressed negro with a gold-headedcane pressed forward and held out his hand. There was, however, nochance for him in the throng, for he was rudely pushed back, and I heardseveral angry exclamations of disapprobation from the crowd, at theliberty he had taken, one individual in particular crying out, "Kickthat nigger off, what has he to do here. " These exclamations caught theear of the negro gentleman, and he shrunk back in an instant, as ifelectrified. Mr. Webster was a yeoman-like looking person, of rather amuscular-build, and at one time of life was, no doubt, as I have heard, possessed of great physical powers; he had a heavy and rather downcastturn of features, which were not improved by a pair of enormous blackeyebrows; there was, however, an expression in his physiognomy thatindicated deep thought, and a degree of intelligence above themediocrity. In addition to this, there was also a pleasing urbanity inhis manner that was certainly contrary to what might have been expectedfrom his personal appearance and known burly character in business. Hegradually retreated up the steps towards the interior of the hotel, theexcessive attentions paid by the crowd appearing troublesome to him. Hewas closely followed, however, by his admirers, whose boisterousbehaviour savoured much more of enthusiasm than deference or politeness. I had heard that the Americans profess never to do things by halves, andso set this instance down as a proof of their propensity to "go thewhole hog, " as they are wont to term their extremes and eccentricities. 

The Town-hall, situate at the base of the Park, which is a triangularpiece of land, well laid out and neatly kept, is a light edifice of sometaste and architectural merit, its chief attraction being the whitemarble of which it is constructed, and which is brought from thequarries at Sing-Sing, some miles up the river Hudson. The effect, however, is not good; its exposure to the elements having given it ablurred or chalky appearance. It is surmounted by a small but elevatedcupola, constructed of wood, which some time ago, I was informed by acitizen, caught fire at a pyrotechnic exhibition, and endangered thewhole edifice, since which, displays of fire-works have been prohibitedin the Park by the civic authorities. At the entrance there is aspacious vestibule, but this, as well as the interior, though elegant inits simplicity of style, is meagre of ornament. Proceeding to theinterior, I reached the criminal court, where a squalid-looking prisonerwas undergoing trial for murder. The judges and officers of the courtwere almost entirely without insignia of office, and the counselemployed, I thought, evinced much tact in their proceedings, especiallyin the cross-examination of witnesses, although they manifested greatacerbity of feeling towards each other, and their acrimonious remarkswould not, I imagine, have been allowed to pass without remonstrance inan English court of justice. I was told by a by-stander, with whom Ientered into conversation, that if found guilty, the prisoner would beconducted to an underground apartment used for the purpose, andprivately executed, the law of the State of New York, from motives thatought to be appreciated in England, prohibiting public executions. It isalso customary there to allow criminals more time than in England, toprepare for the awful change they are doomed to undergo. 

I was informed by a friend that there are some very astute lawyers inAmerica, and I subsequently had opportunities to test the accuracy ofthe remark. Their code, however, differs materially from the English, although professing to be based upon its principles; and has thepreeminent advantage of being pretty free from the intricacies andincongruities that so often tend to defeat justice in themother-country, and render proceedings at law so expensive andperplexing. The slave laws (called the "_codenoir_"), adapted for theSouthern States, must, however, be excepted, for it is notorious, thatto subserve the ends of interested parties, they have been framed so asto present what may with propriety be termed a concatenation ofentanglement and injustice to the slave subjects; the very wording ofmany of these enactments, carrying unmistakable evidence of their beingconcocted for the almost sole protection of the slave-owners. 

Adjoining the Town-hall, or separated only by an avenue, is a heavy, monastic-looking building, used as a bridewell, and called the CityPenitentiary. Having remained a considerable time in the hall where thetrial was going on, the agonized state of the prisoner and sickeningdetails of the murder caused a disinclination for the present tocontinue my perambulations, so I stepped into the Café del'Independence, in Broadway, and called for a port-wine sangaree, endeavouring, while I sipped it, smoked a cigar, and read the _Courierand Inquirer_, to forget the scene I had just witnessed. Leaving soonafter, I pursued my way down Broadway, passing Peel's Museum and theAstor House, to the Battery Marine Promenade. This is a delightful spot, the finest in point of situation (although not in extent) of the kind Iever saw, the Esplanade at Charleston in South Carolina, of which Ishall have by-and-by to speak more particularly, being excepted. 

Ladies and gentlemen were promenading up and down, under the umbrageousfoliage of the lofty trees which skirt the Battery Park, and which wereas yet unscathed by the recent frosts, forming a delightful retreat fromthe scorching rays of an American sun. The sea view from this point, with the adjacent scenery, is interesting and attractive; the broadexpanse of ocean in the distance, the highlands looming in theperspective, the numerous aquatic birds skimming the surface of theestuary, and the picturesque fort and woody shores of New Jersey, alltending to diversify the scene and add to its natural beauty. Iafterwards visited this place over and over again, and every succeedingvisit added to my admiration and enhanced its attractions. To the leftlies, in panoramic grandeur, the harbour, literally teeming with shipsof all sizes and all nations; while, on the right, the entrance of themajestic Hudson or north river, with crowds of magnificent steamers, traders to Troy, Albany, and the West, forms a prominent feature in thatdirection. The passing and repassing of steamers and other vessels ofhome-traffic, and the more exciting arrival of ships from foreign parts, give a zest to the scene which must be witnessed to be fullyappreciated. 

A day or two after, having obtained, through a friend, leave ofadmission, I crossed over to Brooklyn, and visited the Navy-yard. Thedocks of this establishment contained, at this time, many specimens ofAmerican naval architecture of choice description; amongst the rest, afrigate and several other ships of war lying in ordinary. Everythingappeared to indicate good management and efficiency, as far as alandsman could judge. This was very discernible on board the vessels wewere allowed to inspect, where the utmost order and cleanlinessprevailed. The officers, I thought, seemed to exact great deference fromthe men, and their martinet bearing ill accorded with a republicanservice, being decidedly more marked than on board British ships of warwhich I had visited at Deptford, Chatham, and elsewhere in England. Probably a stricter discipline may be found necessary, on account of theequality that exists in America, which might operate to render thoseunder command more difficult of control, if such independence wereallowed to be manifested. 

I found that the army and navy, in America, are chiefly manned byEnglish, Dutch and Irish, not a few Poles being in the ranks of theformer: these are impelled, through lack of employment, and theadditional inducement of a tolerably liberal pay, to join the service. The Americans themselves are too sensible of the inconveniencesattending public services, as well as too acute, to follow suchoccupations in time of peace, though when danger has threatened, theyhave always shown themselves at the instant service of the State, and ascitizen soldiers are not, perhaps, to be equalled in any other country. 

From the Navy-yard I proceeded to Hoboken; this is a place of greatresort in fine weather, and is situate nearly opposite the city of NewYork, or rather the eastern part of it. Here I found assembled a largecompany of pleasure-seekers in holiday attire, some lounging under thetrees, others in groups at pic-nic, and not a small proportion of thegentlemen regaling themselves at the refreshment stalls or temporarycafés, erected on the grounds, on mint juleps and iced sangarees. Thegrounds are interspersed with park, woodland, and forest scenery, andare kept in admirable order, the managers studying to maintain theappearance of original nature, and to impress on the mind of thevisitor, that he is ruralizing, far from city life, amongst primevalforest shades; the contiguous scenery is not, however, calculated tocarry out the idea. It is quite the custom for American husbands toleave their families for the day, and enjoy relaxation in their own way, a practice that I apprehend would not be sanctioned by our Englishladies, any more than it would be resorted to by English gentlemen, frommotives of kindly and very proper feeling. Here, in a retired spot, isthe duelling ground, which has attained no little notoriety in thatlatitude, as the spot where many a knotty point has been quietly solvedby the aid of a pair of pistols or Colt's rifles; although, for thecredit of the citizens of New York and its neighbourhood, it must berecorded that they are not so ready to fly to this disgracefulalternative as their ensanguined brethren in the Southern or SlaveStates. 

My stay in New York being limited by previous arrangements, I wasanxious to get back to the city, although a day might well be taken upin ruralizing, and exploring the Arcadian beauties of Hoboken, thefavourite resort of the citizens of New York. So, after a pretty generalthough cursory survey of its attractions, I recrossed, as I had come, ina ferry propelled by steam. The construction of this boat, a whole fleetof which description were busily plying to and fro, being unique, andunlike any I had seen before, I must not pass it over without remark. Inprinciple it consisted of two barge-like vessels placed side by side, aplatform being laid on the top, for the engine, passengers, andsteersman; the latter, as in all American steam-vessels, of whateversize, being perched in an elevated round-house on deck. The stem andstern of this vessel were alike, the necessity of turning being thusaltogether obviated, as in some of the steam-boats on the Thames. 

A practice prevails amongst newspaper publishers in America, which is, Ibelieve, only resorted to in England in cases of public emergency orunusual excitement, and that but seldom; I mean that of posting on largeplacards the latest arrival of news, home or foreign: thus, whenever youreturn home after a sojourn in the city, the eager inquiry is sure tobe, "Any news up town?" This custom keeps up a lively interest inpassing events, and disseminates amongst the citizens at large, thecurrent news of the day, and if it has no other beneficial effects, prevents rumours, that commonly circulate in times of public excitementto the detriment often of many individuals in crowded communities. Inoticed the walls of New York thickly posted with placards chiefly of aninflammatory political character. Many of these breathed agrarianprinciples, that would in Europe have been inadmissible, and would, without doubt, have led to the immediate arrest and imprisonment of theauthors. Here, however, they are but little noticed by the populace, andnot at all, I believe, by the authorities. Cheap newspapers are pushedinto the face of the passer-by, at the corner of every principalthoroughfare, the prices varying from two to six cents. These, as may besupposed, contain, together with the current news, every description ofscandal and trash imaginable, their personality being highly offensive, injurious, and reprehensible. Thus the freedom of the press is abused inevery part of America, and this powerful engine of "good or ill"converted from a benefit (as it is if managed with propriety) into apublic nuisance. 

One peculiarity, exceedingly annoying to an Englishman, which isobservable even in good society in New York and elsewhere in America, isa prying curiosity as to the affairs of those with whom they converse. Their habits at table also often fill one with disgust, and the want ofgood-breeding I witnessed on more than one occasion would have beenresented in England. This is the more remarkable, as the Americansentertain high notions of refinement, and yet, paradoxical as it mayappear, seem to glory in their contempt of good manners. I do not, however, include the ladies in this remark; on the contrary, I mustunequivocally assert, that I always observed in them, not only in NewYork, but in every other part of the North American continent which Ivisited, the greatest disposition to cover the misdoings of the oppositesex, and a great degree of cultivation and politeness; although they areperfectly freezing in their manners before formal introduction, I do notdoubt that there are many among them of great refinement and powers ofintellect, their personal appearance being also consonant with theirknown amiability. 

The bustle and drive in the trading quarters of the city is very great. The merchants and their assistants have a hurried manner of doingbusiness, discernible in a moment to a stranger, which is much to bedeprecated, and too often leads, as I afterwards found, to disastrousresults. Business with these men is in general quite a "go-a-head" sortof affair, and not being accompanied with method, in many cases leads toan embarrassed state of circumstances. Thus it frequently happens, thaton investigation, the assets of a merchant who has stopped payment andis a supposed bankrupt, realize more than enough to pay the creditors, and the party finds to his agreeable surprise, that his position is notso bad after all. 

The churches and other places of public worship in New York have atemporary appearance, the steeples of the former being, when I visitedthe city, chiefly of painted-wood. This, I believe, is partly the reasonwhy bells are not used, although a friend in whose presence I noticedthis, stated that contempt for so English a custom had much to do withtheir disuse. If so, the prejudice is not confined to New York alone, for I was not cheered by the inspiriting sound of a peal in any otherpart of the Union I visited, although I think I have heard they are inuse in Philadelphia and some of the eastern cities. 

The time I had allotted to remain in New York having expired, and beinganxious to proceed on my route before the close of navigation, Ireluctantly bade adieu to my kind friends in that city, and madepreparations to pursue my way to the more western part of the Union, hoping to reach the Mississippi country before the season when therivers and canals leading to it would be locked up in ice. 

CHAPTER II. 

 "See how yon flaming herald treads The ridged and rolling waves, As, crashing o'er their crested heads, She bows her surly slaves; With foam before and fire behind, She rends the clinging sea, That flies before the roaring wind, Beneath her hissing lea. " HOLMES--_The Steam Boat_. 

My first stage, in proceeding to the interior of the country, was toAlbany, 160 miles north of New York. To effect this, I took passage, onboard a splendidly-equipped steamer, called the _Narraganset_, andesteemed at the time the swiftest boat on the Hudson River. I mustconfess I was rather timid when I did so, for the reckless manner inwhich the crack boats are run, in order to maintain their character forcelerity, is proverbial, and, as may be supposed, is little consonantwith safe travelling. The almost constant recurrence of steam-boatexplosions and consequent sacrifice of life, reports of which are dailyto be seen in the newspapers, weighed somewhat heavily on my mind, andthe latent fear was not lessened by seeing four barrels of pitch rolledon board, the very moment I set foot on the deck of the _Narraganset_. Ihad to console myself, however, as I best could under the circumstances, and trust to Providence; but had it not been for the payment of my fare, which had previously been arranged, and its inevitable loss if I stoppedbehind, I believe I should have declined the passage, from my horror ofa race. Although, before the boat got under weigh, my lurking fears ofexplosion were great, they were much enhanced just after starting, inconsequence of an opposition boat being loosed from her moorings at thesame minute that our vessel got clear of the levee. This accounted forthe barrels of pitch I had seen on deck, the heads of which were knockedout just as we entered the Hudson, and a portion of the contents thrownwith the fuel into the roaring furnaces; this powerful generator ofcaloric of course gave increased rapidity to the motion of the engines, and in a couple of hours we left our opponent far behind. 

It is remarkable that, although the Americans, as a people, travelmore, perhaps, than any other nation, so little attention is paid bythem to safety in transit. It is openly avowed that nothing is morecommon than steam-boat explosions and steam disasters of various kindsthroughout this vast continent; and where boats are constructed to carry1000 or 1200 passengers, as is usual on the American rivers, the loss oflife, in case of accident, is fearful to contemplate. I am aware thatthe subject has been discussed in Congress, and that the question ofremedial measures has occupied the attention of the Executive duringseveral successive Presidentships; but still the evil remains, and thepublic mind in America is almost daily agitated by disasters of thisnature. As long as the rampant spirit of competition and desire tooutvie their fellows, which prevails amongst a large class of Americans, is tacitly, if not openly, encouraged by the governing powers, such astate of things must exist, and will probably increase; but it is apositive disgrace to a country possessing great natural attractions, and, on this account, visited by many foreigners, that they should bythis system be exposed to daily peril of their lives. The acts ofCongress lately promulgated, although apparently stringent, arevirtually a dead letter, in consequence of the facilities for evasion, and the ingenuity of the offenders. The effort to outrun a rival isattended by an insane excitement, too often participated in by thepassengers, who forget for the time that they are in a similar situationto a man sitting on a barrel of gunpowder within a few feet of a ragingfurnace. I frequently found myself in such a position, in consequence ofthis dangerous propensity, and the remedy suggested to my mind, andwhich I recommend to others, was never to take a passage, on Americanwaters, in a first-class steam-boat, as the principle acted upon is tomaintain the character of a first-rater at all hazards, regardless ofthe life or limbs of the helpless passengers. 

The _Narraganset_, like most of the large river steamers, wasconstructed with three decks, and fitted up in sumptuous style. Onelarge saloon, with a portion partitioned off for the ladies, serving asa cabin and dining apartment. There is no professed distinction of classin the passengers on board steam-boats in America. I found, however, that the higher grades, doubtless from the same causes that operate inother parts of the world, kept aloof from those beneath them. 

The scene from the upper or hurricane deck (as it is called) was veryattractive. Flowing, as the river Hudson does, through a finemountainous country, the magnificent scenery on the banks strikes theobserver with feelings allied to awe. The stream being broad andtortuous, beetling crags, high mountains and bluffs, and dense forests, burst suddenly and unexpectedly into view; fearful precipices aboundhere and there, amidst luxuriant groves and uncouth pine barrens, forming altogether a diversity that gives the whole the character of astupendous panorama. 

Before we were out of the tide, which for miles flows up the river, ourvessel grounded three times, but after puffing and straining for aconsiderable time, she got off without damage and pursued her onwardcourse. Most of my fellow-voyagers were disposed to be distant andtaciturn, and so I enjoyed the grandeurs of the scene in solitarymusings, to which the steamers, sloops under sail, and other vesselsproceeding up and down the river, gave a pleasant enlivenment. Thepromenade deck, crowded with lady passengers and beautiful children, under a gay awning, added to the cheerfulness of the surrounding aspect, and the fineness of the weather, but for the fear of collapsing boilers, would have made the trip one of great enjoyment. 

Another drawback I had nearly forgotten, and as it serves to illustratesteam-boat and indeed all other travelling inconveniences in America, Imust not pass it over; I refer to the vulgarity of the men passengers, who, in default of better occupation, chew tobacco incessantly, and, tothe great annoyance of those who do not practise the vandalism, ejectthe impregnated saliva over everything under foot. The deck of thevessel was much defaced by the noxious stains; and even in converse withladies the unmannerly fellows expectorated without sense of decency. Theladies, however, seemed not to regard it, and one bright-eyed houri Isaw looking into the face of a long sallow-visaged young man, who hadthe juice oozing out at each angle of his mouth with disgusting effect, so that enunciation was difficult. 

Some miles up the Hudson, on a high piece of table-land, amidst romanticscenery, stands in prominent relief the military college of West Point. It commands an extensive view, and, was, I believe, an important outpostduring the late war. The young graduates were exercising in parties onthe parade ground under officers, and appeared dressed in dark jacketswith silver-coloured buttons, and light blue trowsers. We saw thetargets used by the graduates in artillery, who practise on the riverbanks; at least, it was so stated by a fellow-passenger, who either was, or pretended to be, acquainted with all the affairs of that college. 

Beneath the summit of a high bluff, covered with wood, contiguous tothe college, I observed a monument or obelisk, which I ascertained tohave been erected to the memory of Kosciusko, a Polish patriot, who tooka prominent part in the annihilation of British rule in America. It hada very picturesque effect, and was regarded with feelings of venerationby many of the American passengers, one of whom paid a tribute to thedeparted hero, which he wound up by observing with nasal emphasis andlugubrious countenance, "If twarnt for that ere man, wher'd we be, Iwaunt to know; not here I guess. " This sentiment, although I couldscarcely see the point of it myself, elicited half-a-dozen "do tells"and "I waunt to knows" from those around; expressions which, foolish asthey sound to English ears, are in common use in the northern andeastern states, when an individual acquiesces in, or is anxious to knowmore about, what is stated. 

As the scenery on the Hudson, although picturesque and highly romantic, savours somewhat of sameness, I shall forbear any further description ofit. No one visiting America should omit, if possible, a passage toAlbany, in order to enjoy, perhaps, the finest natural scenery in theworld. 

The individual who delivered the eulogium I have noted on Kosciusko, stated, that at the time of the war, an immense chain cable was thrownacross the river at West Point, to prevent the British vesselsproceeding to the interior, and this they in vain tried to destroy byfiring chain or bar shots. 

After a favourable passage, we at length reached Albany, which is anextensive city, and the depôt for produce, especially wheat, brought_viâ_ the Erie Canal from the interior; being, in fact, the storehouseof the trade to and from the interior States of the Union, west, as wellas from Canada and the Lakes. It is finely situated on the west bank ofthe Hudson; many of its inhabitants are descended from the firstcolonists, especially the adventurous and persevering Dutch, who, likethe Scotch, cling with tenacity to the spot they fix upon, and quicklyaccumulate property. This city is continually growing in importance, from the vast number of small capitalists who flock there and settle;and it will eventually, no doubt, vie with New York itself in wealth andimportance. As I determined to make no stay here, but to proceed up theErie Canal to Buffalo, I did not see much of this place, and musttherefore omit any lengthened description of it. From what I did see, itappeared a densely-populated, well-built city, laid out with muchregularity, and boasting of many substantial buildings, several of theedifices being constructed of white marble. 

Having secured a passage on board a canal packet about to start, I atonce embarked, and in a few hours after was running up the Erie Canalat the rate of six miles an hour, the boat being towed by four lighthorses of high mettle. The trappings of these animals were of a noveldescription, bells being appended to various parts of the harness, andstreamers, or plumes of white hair and gaudy ribbons, floating in theair from the bridle of each. A postilion, in a suit of grey, with anotter-skin cap, rode on the rearmost or saddle horse, and his_nonchalance_ and perfect command of his team were surprising. This boatwas some sixty yards in length, and constructed only for passengers andtheir luggage. The interior formed a long saloon in miniature, fitted upwith lounges, and tastefully decorated; a promenade on the deck or topfurnishing a good place for exercise. At night our saloon was convertedinto a general dormitory, a portion being partitioned off for theladies, by ranges of shelves being suspended from the sides, on whichwere laid the mattresses, &c. Owing to the number of locks and stoppagesat the miserable towns and villages on the canal banks, our passage toBuffalo took several days; and the country being flat and uninteresting, although divided into farms, which in general appeared to be in a stateof tolerable cultivation, I was not a little relieved when we began toapproach the city. 

The formation of the Erie Canal was one of those grand internalimprovements frequently to be met with in that country, and which havecontributed to its general prosperity in no small degree. The projectorof this vast undertaking, De Witt Clinton, is justly esteemed byAmerican citizens, who regard him as a public benefactor, and his nameranks with the founders of their independence. The canal runs, for aconsiderable distance before it reaches Buffalo, parallel with the lake, but separated from it by a sort of artificial sea-wall. As we mergedinto the vicinity of this magnificent inland sea, the sun was shiningbrightly, and gave it the appearance of molten silver. As far as the eyecould reach, a wide expanse of water presented itself, and the distantshores of Canada gave beauty to the scene. At Black-rock we coulddistinguish the sites of the British fortifications, from which in thelast war red-hot cannon-balls were ejected, to the dismay of theterrified Americans, and the destruction of many of their houses. 

Buffalo is a flourishing city on the border of Lake Erie, and abouttwenty miles south of the Falls of Niagara. It is within the boundary ofthe state of New York, and has of late years greatly increased inextent, wealth, and population. The old town, quite an inconsiderableplace, on the site of which the present city has risen, phoenix-like, was burnt to the ground during the late war, by some British officers, who made a sortie from the Canada shores; which circumstance, havingbeen handed down from father to son, still rankles in the bosoms of manyof the older inhabitants, who do not fail to state their belief thatretributive justice will eventually be administered by the entiresubjugation of Canada. During my rather prolonged stay in Buffalo, I hadfrequent opportunities of discovering that the most rancorous feelingsexist on the subject; and in proof of this it may be remembered by thereader that the Canadian insurgents were assisted at the lateinsurrection by supplies of stores from this city. These were conveyedto Navy Island by the steamer _Caroline_, which was subsequently seized, and sent over the Falls of Niagara by the British troops, a number ofthe crew being cruelly massacred. 

From inquiries made of parties well informed on the subject, both inCanada and the United States, I am convinced that the public act of SirJohn Colborne, before quitting the governorship of the province, in1835, viz. , the allotment or appropriation of 346, 252 acres of the soil, as a clergy reserve, and the institution of the fifty-seven rectories, was the chief predisposing cause of the insurrection. By this Act acertain portion of land in every township was set apart for themaintenance of "a Protestant clergy, " under which ambiguous term, theclergy of the Church of England have always claimed the sole enjoymentof the funds arising from the sale of such portions of land. This islooked upon by dissenters of all denominations as a direct infringementof the original intention of the Act, which they maintain was for thepurpose of aiding the Protestant cause at large against the innovationsof the Roman Catholic Church. Much ill-will and sectarian prejudice arethe natural consequence; in fact, the Act is a perfect apple of discordthroughout the Canadas, and has engendered more animosity and resentmentthan any one legislative act, sanctioned by the Home Government, sincethe acquisition (if so it can he called) of the country. It is anindelible disgrace to England, that such a manifestly bigoted andnarrow-minded policy should have been allowed to continue so long; and Iam fully persuaded that this enactment, which, there is little doubt, originated in sectarianism, perpetuates a degree of rancorous feeling inthe minds of people there, that is sufficient to account for thedisaffection and tendency to rebellion that ever and anon displaysitself; and that to remove this blister, and allow the application ofthese funds to all creeds alike, would be to restore peace, and convertdoubtfully-affected communities to allegiance. If there is oneconsideration that ought to weigh in the minds of the British as apeople, to endeavour to rivet the affections of the Canadians, more thananother, and prevent the ultimate cession of that country to theAmericans, it is, that the dependency affords now the only asylum forthose persecuted outcasts of humanity, the slaves of the United States. Canada, the land of freedom, is associated in their minds withparadisaical thoughts of happiness--and many a heart-stricken creaturein the Southern States of America, as I had many opportunities ofascertaining, toils on in content, with "Canada" in view, as theultimatum of his hopes and the land of his redemption. 

The population of Buffalo is fluctuating, owing to the vast number ofemigrants who are constantly arriving, _en route_ to Ohio, Michigan, andthe far West. It averages in population, about ten thousand. The city isnot of great extent, and consists in chief of one principalthoroughfare, called Maine-street, which is wide, the lower partterminating at the water's edge, along which spacious stores are erectedfor the reception of wheat and goods in transit. The harbour is formedby an arm of Lake Erie uniting with Buffalo river. Here are alwayscongregated a large fleet of steamers, many of them of leviathandimensions, which are employed in running to and from Detroit, inMichigan, and the intermediate ports, as well as in the Upper Laketrade. Being quite a depôt, Buffalo bids fair, ere the lapse of manyyears, to be the grand emporium of the West. The public buildings do notdeserve much notice; the Eagle Theatre, a joint-stock concern, being theonly building of much interest. There are, however, several spacioushotels, and two or three banks, that boast some architectural merit, although much, I believe, cannot be said as to their stability. Thelateral streets are rather obscure, and, not being regularly built upon, give the city an unfinished look. These are, however, dotted here andthere with chateaux, having good gardens well arranged. The NiagaraRailway station is situated to the left of Maine-street, about half-wayup that premier thoroughfare. 

At night the distant moan of the Niagara falls was audible, and this, together with what I had heard and read, made me very anxious to visitthe spot. Accordingly, one splendid morning I started by train for thepurpose. For some miles before we reached Niagara, we constantly heardthe roar of the rushing waters, and were thus prepared for thestupendous scene that burst upon the view, as we alighted at the doorsof that _ne plus ultra_ of modern hostelries, the Pavilion Hotel. 

My powers of description will fall short of conveying to the mind ofthe reader the awful grandeur of this cataract, so often commented uponby travellers. The first impression felt by me was, that the wholesubstratum on which I stood, which seemed to tremble, was about to beswept away by the vast inundation. It was not the height of the falls, but the immense body of water, which comprehends, with constantaccumulations from the tributaries on the way, the overflowings of LakesErie, Superior, Michigan, and Huron. The astonishing effect of such abody of water, dashed abruptly over a precipice of 150 perpendicularfeet, may be conceived; such is the momentum of this immense volume offluid, that, when it strikes the rocky bed at the base of the cataract, it rebounds in a thick cloud of vapour--and when the sun's raysintercept it, as was the case when I arrived there, a beautiful rainbowof vivid colours encircles the area of the chasm, and, together with thenatural curiosities and situation of the entire scene, presents to theamazed beholder, the effect of a highly-executed picture in a frame ofsun-light, although far surpassing the productions of human skill, whichmay well be said, in comparison, to sink into utter insignificance. 

A large company of visitors were assembled at the time of my arrival, probably from all parts of the world--so that I found it impossible toget a bed, unless I penetrated into the interior with a view to obtainaccommodation at some farm-house, or crossed to the Canada side; but, feeling too tired, after the day's excitement, to pursue either suchcourse, I took an evening train and returned to Buffalo the same day, where I arrived at 9 P. M. 

About three miles from Buffalo is an Indian village, called Tonawanda. Ifrequently saw parties of the inhabitants, who resort to the city todispose of their wares and produce. Some of the warriors were fineathletic fellows, of great stature, the lowest I saw being over six feetin height. They were clothed in tanned buck-skin, curiously fringed andornamented with porcupine-quills richly dyed; their squaws (wives) beingenveloped in fine Canadian blue broad cloth, their favourite costume;the crimson or other gaudy-coloured selvedge forming a conspicuousornament. 

Like all the aborigines of America, they cling with tenacity to primevalhabits and customs, resisting every attempt made by the whitepopulation, to make or persuade them to conform to civilized life. Theill-usage they have been subjected to by the Americans, may, however, account for this in a great measure. They were described to me by one ofthe residents as a dissipated set of fellows, who squandered all theygot in "fire-water, " as they term ardent spirits, and when inebriatedare so quarrelsome that it is dangerous in the highest degree toirritate them. 

Not very long after I arrived, a circumstance occurred that threatenedmost fearful consequences. The Indians whom I have before referred towere in the frequent habit, when they came to the city, to dispose oftheir produce (for many of them followed husbandry) of getting so tipsy, that there was continual danger of bloodshed; their natural animosity onsuch occasions being roused with fearful vehemence, so that theauthorities were compelled to adopt some steps to remedy the evil. Itwas no uncommon occurrence to see an Indian waggon by the road-side, with its pair of horses _sans_ driver, who might have been found eitherdrunk or quarreling at the other end of the city. And although thehorses were always impounded, and a fine inflicted, still the nuisancecontinued without abatement, in fact, was rather on the increase. Thenew Mayor, being a man more alive than his predecessor to this evil, caused a regulation to be passed by the Civic Council, that any Indianfound so far the worse for liquor in the streets of Buffalo as to beincapable of taking care of himself, should be punished by being made towork on the high roads for a short period, with an iron ball and chainattached to his leg. When this law was promulgated, there was a strongimpression that the Indians would show resistance. This was soon foundto be a correct view of the case, for not a week had elapsed before twowarriors were brought before the Mayor, and sentenced to ten days'probation at road-mending, in pursuance of the decree. They had, however, only been at work two days in the upper part of Maine-street, in charge of two constables, when a large body of their fraternity, armed _cap-a-pié, _ entered the city, and, with horrid yells andbrandished tomahawks, rescued the culprits, knocked off their chains, and carried them in triumph to the Indian village, amidst fearfulthreats of fire and blood. As this attack was unexpected, no resistancewas offered; and although there was much discussion afterwards, aboutthe laws being vindicated and an example being made, the matter, frommotives, no doubt, of public safety, was allowed to drop, and for thefuture the red men had it all their own way, although there werecertainly signs of amendment, and the evil decreased to a very greatextent. The Indian maxim being, "Firm in friendship but ruthless inwar, " there is little doubt that the course pursued on this occasion bythe city authorities, was the best under such circumstances. 

Lake Erie is a fine piece of water, being 265 miles long, from Buffaloto Detroit, the two extreme ends, and averaging about 60 miles broad. Atits north-east end it communicates with Lake Ontario and the Canadianshores, by the gut or strait of Niagara. Towards the west end arenumerous islands and banks, which are furnished with light-houses forthe guidance of the mariner. Its waters wash the foot of Maine-street(Buffalo) where they meet the river from which that city takes its name. It is frequently visited by furious gales, which play havoc with thesteamers, many of which are annually wrecked. 

While I remained in Buffalo, I took several excursions to the towns thatskirt this beautiful inland sea. On one of these occasions, the steamerwas driven by stress of weather to take shelter in the small harbour ofHuron, some distance up the lake; this we reached with much difficulty, the violence of the sea threatening every moment the total destructionof the vessel. As we entered the harbour, the air rang with a shout ofwelcome from the inhabitants of the place, who had been watching ourperilous progress in great anxiety, and were assembled at the end of thelittle pier. Here we remained for two days and nights, the wind blowingall that time with the fury of a hurricane; the lake, during the storm, presenting the appearance of the sea in a stiff north-wester, thewhite-crested waves rising in violent commotion to a fearful height. 

Huron is but a small and uninteresting place, situate in a mostunwholesome locality, lying opposite to a murky swamp, whose poisonousvapours spread disease and death around. It is the highway to Sanduskycity, an inland border town, rendered famous for the obstinacy withwhich the inhabitants and a body of U. S. Infantry defended a fort thereagainst the attacks of the British troops in 1812. Having ascertainedthe captain's intention not to sail until the day following, and itbeing described as a very attractive spot, I hired a horse, and, after aseven miles' ride through a country dotted with farm houses, which had adesolate look, and the lands appertaining to which were subdivided byzigzag log fences (hedges being unknown in the back settlements), Ireached the so-called city, which is built in nearly the form of aparallelogram, the area of greensward having a pretty effect. Here aresome good hotels, and a seminary or college for young ladies, which ismuch patronized by the better classes of the northern and easternstates, especially New York. I looked in vain for the Fort, which has, since the war, been demolished; but the landlord of the hotel at whichI afterwards dined, took me to its site, and related several incidentsthat occurred in connection with the fortress, and the struggle betweenthe belligerent parties at the time. As, however, I considered thesesomewhat apocryphal, from several of his relations failing to hangtogether, and his decided bias against the Britishers, as he called theEnglish, I shall not trouble the reader with the details. After viewingthe place and its suburbs to my satisfaction, and after an excellentdinner of green maize and venison, I rode back to the steamer. 

It was towards evening when I arrived; and, as I approached Huron, bythe banks of the creek that divides the swamp I have mentioned, andwhich was unusually swollen, I noticed a canoe that had broken loosefrom its moorings, drifting down the current; a moment afterwards theowner arrived in breathless haste, to endeavour to save it fromdestruction; his exertions were, however, useless, and, finding therewas no alternative, he hailed the bystanders, and offered the reward ofa dollar to any one who would swim to and paddle the canoe on shore;this offer was eagerly caught at by a tall man, of great muscular power, who was amongst the crowd, and who at once threw off his coat andplunged into the stream. This was very rapid, and, after a few momentsbattling with the turbid current, he was overpowered; uttering a loudcry for assistance, which I shall never forget and which rang in my earslike a death knell, he disappeared from the view of the spectators, and, being probably entangled in the trees and debris that were floating downthe torrent, he did not rise again. A loud wail arose from the terrifiedassemblage, who were unable to render the poor fellow any assistance, and who ran about in frantic excitement. The canoe was lost, beingcarried at a rapid rate into the open lake, where it capsized, and sunkimmediately. After dragging for the body for upwards of an hour, it wasfished up from under some logs of timber moored some distance belowwhere the catastrophe occurred. The body being landed and placed on thebank, a loud altercation ensued as to the means to be used to attemptresuscitation--a vain hope--but still persisted in by those assembled. Some wanted to roll it on a barrel, others to suspend it by the heels, that the water might be voided. At length a doctor arrived, and, aftersome inquiry, pronounced effort useless, from the time the body had beenunder water. This at once damped the ardour of the crowd, although itdid not discourage a female, who had taken a prominent part in theoperations, and who, with that true womanly tenderness and solicitudewhich do honour to her sex, and which are nowhere more conspicuous thanin America, insisted upon the corpse being taken to a neighbouringhouse, where, like a ministering angel, she persevered in her effortsfor a considerable time, although of course without effect. 

The banks of Lake Erie, in the vicinity of Huron, are thickly studdedwith small trees and coppice wood. This scenery, being interspersed withopen natural meadow-land, gives it a park-like aspect, and several spotswould, graced with a mansion, have formed an estate any nobleman inEurope might have been proud of, the shores of Canada, looming in thehazy distance, giving a fine effect to the scene. 

The noise and disagreeable odour arising from the bull-frogs and otherreptiles that infest the swamp opposite the village at night, filled theair, and rendered it impossible for me to sleep. As I lay restless on mybed, I suddenly heard a gun fired, and, starting up in some alarm, Ihastily put on my clothes and descended to the bar of the hotel. Hereseveral of the inmates were assembled, and were preparing to cross thecreek with lanterns, to explore the swamp, cries of distress having beendistinctly heard, as of some benighted traveller who had lost his way. After listening intently, and firing several rifles to guide thewanderer or apprize him that assistance was at hand, the party crossedthe creek in a canoe, and moved along the skirts of the morass, hallooing loudly all the time; the cries, however, heard only atintervals at the commencement, became gradually indistinct, and at lastceased altogether. After an ineffectual search for an hour or more, theparty again turned towards Huron, strongly impressed with the belief, that the unfortunate being had sunk with his horse in the soft bed ofthe swamp, which is some miles in extent, and had perished miserably. The day following, I visited the nearest point from which the cries wereheard, but I could discern no sign of the sufferer, nor could I eventrace footmarks; this, however, is not remarkable, as they wouldspeedily be obliterated by the many reptiles nurtured in the morass. Itwas afterwards questioned, whether the supposed wanderer was only acatamount, a species of jaguar that emits doleful cries at night. 

The storm having abated, I soon after returned on board, and in duecourse reached Buffalo, where I had the pleasure of meeting with an oldacquaintance, from whom I had long been separated, and who had delayedhis intended voyage up the lake, to await my return. A large proportionof the population of Buffalo are people of colour, and one quarter ofthe town is almost exclusively inhabited by them; many of these, Iregret to add, are living in a state of degradation pitiable to behold, apparently without the least endeavour being made by their whitefellow-citizens to improve their condition. Some of these colouredpeople keep eating-houses, for the accommodation of those of their owncomplexion, but the greater number are employed as stokers andsteam-boat hands. A few of these men, despite the prejudice that exists(and it is nowhere in the Union more marked than in Buffalo), rise abovethe common level, and by that probity of character and untiring energy, which I believe to be inherent in the race, become men of substance. 

One instance of this deserves especial notice, as the subject of it had, entirely by the good qualities mentioned, amassed a fortune, and hadmarried a woman of English birth. I was introduced to this individualsome time after my arrival in Buffalo, and his singularly correct viewsand uprightness of character made me partial to his company. His wifewas a notable, well-informed, good-looking woman, about forty years ofage. Irrespective of colour, I certainly admired her discrimination inthe choice of a partner, although she was looked down upon by the wivesof the white citizens, and, in common with her husband, was almostentirely shunned by them. There may, perhaps, have been a higherconsideration than that of a good settlement to cause an English womanin this instance to marry a dark mulatto; but I was always of opinion, and she confirmed this by hints dropped casually, that the considerationof a fortune had more to do with the alliance than love. This gentlemankept a good house, and had many servants. His wife being fond ofamusements, he hired a box for her use at the Eagle Theatre, which shealways attended alone, the etiquette of the white citizens notpermitting his attendance with her. He appeared almost always in adesponding mood, a tendency arising entirely from the insultingdemeanour used towards him by the citizens; and he frequently talked ofremoving to Canada, or the far West, to avoid the treatment he wassubjected to at the hands of a pack of young scoundrels, who took everyopportunity to annoy and treat him with indignity for marrying a whitewoman. The consequence was, that neither he nor his wife scarcely everventured out. If they did so, it was never in company, and usually afterdark. I was politely offered the use of their box at the theatre duringmy stay, and on one occasion availed myself of the offer. But I neverventured again--the box was evidently marked, and during the performanceI was subjected to the most disgusting remarks and behaviour from theaudience. Indeed, this was carried so far, that I retired long beforethe curtain dropped. So intent were his fellow-citizens on annoyingthis inoffensive man, that soon after he was mobbed in Maine-street bythe young desperadoes I have referred to, who, from their determinedopposition to intermixed marriages, were known in the place as"anti-amalgamists. " On this occasion poor P---- nearly lost his life, and, but for running, would, no doubt, have done so; as it was, he wasmuch burnt about the head and neck, the ruffians in the scuffle havingset fire to his frock-coat, which was of linen. 

It is rather remarkable that, at St. Louis, on the Missouri, some tenmonths afterwards, I met this very man, he having purchased somegovernment land in a remote part of that state. Our meeting was quiteaccidental, for I crossed the street and accosted him as he was hurryingalong. In the course of our interview he pressed me earnestly to go upthe country with him; but this I declined from motives of prudence, theroute lying through a slave-holding state, where a white and colouredman travelling on terms of equality, would be sure to excite suspicion. He had a small bundle of papers under his arm, and on my remarking heappeared intent on business, he stated they were his free papers, andthat not ten minutes before he had been challenged to produce them; butthis, he said, would not have prevented his arrest and detention in thecity gaol until the authorities of Buffalo had been written to undersuspicion of his being a fugitive, had he not taken the precaution, before he left that city, to obtain from the mayor a certificate of hisintention to proceed to the Missouri country, and the object of hisvisit. He told me that if he liked his purchase, he should build a houseon it, and cultivate the land as a farm, as his continued residence inBuffalo, after the disposition to annoy him shown by the citizens, rendered his stay there out of the question. I afterwards dined with himat his "hotel, " which was an obscure tavern in an unfrequented part ofthe city, in and about which I saw several coloured people. I afterwardsascertained that this was what is there derisively termed a "niggerboarding-house, " and that the keepers of superior hotels would not thinkof accommodating a coloured person even for a night. From subsequentexperience in such matters, I have no doubt that this version was a trueone. 

The hotels and cafés in the Slave States are all frequented by slaveowners and dealers; these would not think of putting up at quarterswhere "coloured folks" were entertained. This distinction is so marked, that no negro would attempt to apply for refreshment at the bar of suchplaces, as the inevitable consequence of such a liberty would berefusal, if not summary ejectment. It is therefore the custom, in allsouthern towns and cities, for the negro population to resort to placeskept expressly for the accommodation of coloured people. These are notalways kept by men of their own complexion, but often by white men, who, having become friendly with them, have lost caste with the whites, andare in fact discarded by them. 

In the harbour of Buffalo, I saw two brigs, that during the war in 1812had been captured by the Americans, and sunk somewhere up the lake onthe American side. These had recently been raised by means of apparatusinvented by an ingenious American. They were strong, substantially-builtbrigs, of about 250 tons burden each. I was surprised to find what apreserving effect the lake water had upon the timber, the wood beingalmost black in colour, and so hard that it was difficult to make animpression upon it even with an axe. These vessels had been sold to ashipping company, and were at the time employed, I think, in the Chicagoor Upper Lake trade. 

I had frequently heard of the number of rattle and other snakes to bemet with on the banks of the lake, but these have been nearlyexterminated by the settlers. During my stay in the suburbs I only founda few water-snakes, basking in the sun amongst the wilderness ofaquatic plants that cover the surface of the water in the creeks. 

The superstitious dread of inhaling the east wind blowing from the mouthof the lake, is now exploded, and is considered in the light of aby-gone tale; although, for three-quarters of a century, it wasconsidered baneful even to the healthy. Consumptive patients are, however, soon carried off, the biting blasts from the Canadian shoresproving very fatal in pulmonary complaints, and the winters being verysevere. 

A plentiful supply of excellent fish of various sorts, is procured fromthe lake. These are salted in barrels, and find a ready market in thenorthern and eastern states. 

My abode in the city of Buffalo extended over the greater part of ayear, and during this period I had frequent opportunities of witnessingthat tendency to overreach that has, perhaps, with some justice, beencalled a disposition in the generality of Americans to defraud. I do notmean to stygmatize any particular class of men in this imputation, but Imust record my decided conviction, arising from transactions with them, that business with the mass of citizens there is not that upright systemthat obtains with such successful results in the mother country, amongstthose engaged in commercial relations. Perhaps it would be but fair tomake some excuse for men of this class, in a country whose heterogeneouspopulation, and consequent exposure to competition, renders it astruggle to obtain a livelihood. It is notorious that thousands of menin America are obliged, as it were, to succumb to this influence orbecome paupers, and are thus driven out of the paths of strict rectitudeand honesty of purpose, and compelled to resort to all sorts ofchicanery to enable them to make two ends meet. In no instance is thismore observable than in the "selling" propensities of the Americans. "For sale" seems to be the national motto, and would form an admirableaddendum to the inscription displayed on the coins, "_E pluribus unum_. "Everything a man possesses is voluntarily subjected to the law ofinterchange. The farmer, the land speculator, and the keeper of themeanest grocery or barber's stall, are alike open to "a trade, " that is, an exchange of commodities, in the hope or prospect of some profit, honestly or dishonestly, being attached to the transaction. This inducesa loose, gambling propensity, which, indulged in to excess, often leadsto ruin and involvement, and, if absolute beggary is deferred, causesnumerous victims to be perpetually floundering in debt, difficulty, anddisgrace. 

CHAPTER III. 

 "Then blame mo not that I should seek, although I know not thee, To waken in thy heart its chords of holiest sympathy, It is for woman's bleeding heart, for woman's humbled form, O'er which the reeking lash is swung, with life's red current warm. " E M CHANDLER

On a fine morning in June, I took my departure from Buffalo, in the lakesteamer _Governor Porter_, for the port of Cleveland in the state ofOhio. The sun was shining on the silvery bosom of the lake, which in adead calm gave it a refulgent glassy appearance. We had not, however, been two hours at sea before the clouds began to collect, and a heavygale came on with rapidity. This continued to increase until the dayfollowing, during which the vessel had passed Cleveland, the place ofmy destination, and was driving before a furious north-wester towardsDetroit, at the head of the lake. The captain stated that all hisendeavours to make the landing-place at Cleveland had been unavailing, but if those passengers whom he had engaged to land there would proceedwith him on the voyage to his destination, he would land them on hisreturn, which he said would probably be in three or four days. As thisoffer necessarily included board, the three passengers, who were in thesame predicament as myself, after a short consultation agreed to acceptit; and as time was not an object to me, I did not demur, for I muchwished to have a view of the country in that direction. Had either of usdissented, the captain would, probably, have landed us at the next port, a result that would have involved the expense and inconvenience of athirty miles' ride, or thereabouts, to Cleveland, in a rough stage, overrougher roads. 

The weather moderated towards sunset, and we had a very favourablepassage to the head of the lake, and entering Detroit harbour, whichlies at the foot of the town, I soon after landed, and took a strollinto it. It is not a very populous place, the inhabitants being, Ishould say, under 4000. The houses are in general, heavy dirty-lookingbuildings, though the streets are tolerably wide, and built withregularity. It is, I believe, peopled principally by French and Dutch, who appeared to be in low circumstances, and who follow the usual townoccupations. 

This town, which is essentially Gaelic in appearance, is situated on thewest side of the strait, between Lakes St. Clare and Erie, and is withinsight of Malden in Canada, with the shores of which province a constanttrade or communication is kept up by steam. Here is situated anextensive government agency for the sale of land in Michigan; whither, at the time, vast numbers of new settlers were daily proceeding insearch of homes and happiness. I saw many of these on their way, and asthey toiled to their new homes, they looked haggard, forlorn, andabject; and I thought I could distinguish in almost all, especially thewomen, an aspect of grief that indicated they were exiles, who had leftbehind all that tended to make life joyous and happy, to seek aprecarious existence in an unknown wilderness. As the town afforded fewattractions, the only place of amusement being a temporary theatricalexhibition, I was not a little rejoiced when the vessel again starteddown the lake, which she did with every advantage of favourable weather. In due course we reached Cleveland, and, as I was anxious to proceedonwards, I took but a cursory view of the place, which is, likeDetroit, situated on a somewhat rising ground. It appeared a thrivingtown, and the hotels were in general superbly fitted up. 

As I was strolling towards the canal to take my passage to the Ohioriver, a little incident occurred, which, as it illustrates a very oldadage, I will not omit. Passing some low-built houses near the canal, myattention was arrested by the screams of a female, who uttered loudcries for assistance. 

Hastening to the door of the house from which the alarm proceeded, Ilifted the latch in great trepidation, when I saw a man just about tostrike a woman (who proved to be his wife) with an uplifted chair. Thefellow was vociferating loudly, and appeared in a towering passion. Myfirst impulse was to cry out "Drop it!" when, lo! as if I had, likeKaterfelto, the by-gone professor of legerdemain, cried "Presto, " thescene changed, and both man and woman, who were Americans of the lowerclass, commenced bullying me in right earnest. I made my retreat withsome difficulty, as they seemed, both of them, inclined to serve meroughly for my well-intentioned, though, perhaps, mistimed interference. As I made my escape, however, I intimated, pretty loudly, that I shouldat once apply to a magistrate on the subject, a threat, by-the-bye, thatwas little regarded, and only increased the showers of abuse levelledat me. As my appealing to a magistrate would be of little avail in thecase of a family jar, and would certainly have entailed inconvenienceand delay, I did not carry my threat into execution, wondering, at thesame time, at my temerity in interfering in a quarrel between man andwife, which I now practically learnt, for the first time in my life, wasto incur the unmitigated anger of both, and to learn how true it is that

 "Those who in quarrels interpose, Must oft expect a bloody nose. "

I visited the portion of the town appropriated by the Mormons as aresidence. Here, in the midst of their dwellings, they had erected atemple for worship, which, on their emigrating west, their arch-leader, Smith, prophesied would, by the interposition of heaven, be destroyed byfire. The prophecy was verified as to the fact, but heaven had, itappeared, little to do with it; for it was ascertained to be the work ofan incendiary of their sect, who was detected and brought to condignpunishment. 

I was afterwards informed by an American gentleman, to whom I had aletter of introduction, and who had been a great sufferer by theseimpostors, that some time before the great body of Mormons migrated tothe interior, they started a bank. Having managed to put a vast numberof their notes in circulation, for which they received produce, theyclosed the doors, and left the public to be losers by their nefariousschemes. I had the misfortune myself, in my ignorance, to take from adishonest store-keeper a ten-dollar bill of this spurious currency, anddid not detect the imposture until I offered it to the captain of theboat I had engaged a passage in to _La Belle Rivière_, as the Ohio iscalled. I must mention, however, that I took it previously to theinterview with the gentleman I have adverted to, and actually, withoutknowing it, had the note in my pocket-book when he mentioned the defaultof these pseudo bankers. I paid ten dollars for a useful lesson. 

The passengers from Cleveland formed a motley group; for, irrespectiveof French, Dutch, Americans, and Canadians, we had on board eight or tenfamilies of the Mormon sect, following in the wake of their leaders, Smith and Rigdon, to their new settlement in the far west. These peoplewere very reserved, and seemed inclined to keep aloof from theirfellow-passengers. This, however, may be accounted for by the prejudiceso justly existing at the time against them, as a body, from the causesI have already mentioned; in fact, the indignation of the people couldhardly be kept in check by the authorities, and lynching was resortedto on more than one occasion. The men were clothed in drab broad-cloth, and wore large white hats; their garb altogether resembling that of themore respectable Society of Friends, in America. The resemblance, however, ceases with the dress, for, if reports speak true, and they aremany-tongued, they are very exceptionable in their morality and generalprinciples, amongst other peculiarities, polygamy being allowed, for theavowed purpose of extending and perpetuating the sect. 

Our progress was pretty rapid, though it lay through an uninterestingcountry, in many parts uncultivated and barren-looking. Massillon is avery flourishing town, with some good stores and two or three hotels. Asthe captain was obliged to make a short stay here, I went into the townand, stepping into an hotel to procure a cigar, I found a companyengaged in earnest conversation, interrupted at intervals by loudlaughter. On inquiry, I was told that the landlord had that morning beenplayed a Yankee trick by a travelling pedlar, who had stopped theprevious night at his house. It appeared that the same man had somemonths before practised on the landlord; but, either supposing thematter blown over and forgotten, or, what is more likely, with a view toput another of his arts into exercise, he again put up at the samehouse. The proprietor, however, at once recognized the pedlar, andafter taxing him with the cheat he had practised on the former occasion, wound up his lecture by stating, in true American style, that if heagain succeeded in cheating him he would forego the amount of his tavernexpenses. The man exclaimed, "Done, " and at once it appeared set hiswits to work to obtain the object. A few hours after the conversation, the fellow brought in from his waggon some boxes of fancy goods, andendeavoured to induce the landlady to purchase. This, however, no doubtprompted by her husband, she resolutely refused, and he had them removedto his room upstairs, as is customary. After breakfast, the followingmorning, he called the landlady aside and said he forgot the day beforeto show her a fancy quilt of superior workmanship, and if she would onlylook at it he would be satisfied, as it was one of great beauty. Sheconsented to this, and the man at once went to his waggon, which was nowat the door, he being about to start, and brought in a box whichcontained, amongst numerous other articles, the quilt he had beeneulogizing. The landlady was much taken with its appearance, and aftersome little persuasion consented to become the purchaser. Accordingly, the bargain was concluded, and the balance between his tavern bill andthe article in question was handed over at the hotel bar to the pedlar, who at once started from the house, the landlord on his doing sojocosely remarking on the conversation of the previous day, in reply towhich the wily pedlar observed, that "he guessed it was all right. " Soonafter the man left, the landlady called her spouse to the inner room, and showing him her bargain, said she had been induced to buy the quilt, because it was an exact match for the one in the large room up-stairs. This led to a female help (as servants are there called), beingdespatched to the room to fetch and compare the original with that newlypurchased. The girl speedily returned in the greatest consternation, saying it had vanished. The truth now became apparent; the artful pedlarhad actually sold the landlady her own quilt!

This ludicrous circumstance led to the confusion I had noticed when Iarrived; the man had gone they knew not whither, and had it beenpossible to overtake him, I question whether he would have been pursued, the cleverness of the trick being highly applauded by the company, andthe landlord feeling, perhaps, ashamed of being outwitted a second time, after himself giving the challenge. The ingenuity of American pedlars incozening their countrymen, has long been proverbial, and in general, people are wary of them; they have, however, I suppose by longpractice, become such adepts at roguery, that however alive to theirpropensities, folks are daily victimized by such men. It was nothing newto hear a roguish action applauded, but on this occasion the companywere vociferous in his praise, and declared they would certainlypatronize him when he came that way again, for he deservedencouragement. 

After strolling through the town, which presented little worthrecording, I again returned to the boat, which proceeded on its way. Ihad frequently heard and read of those vast flocks of wild pigeons whichperiodically pursue their flight to milder latitudes: and, as the boatwas now approaching the centre of the state of Ohio, where myriads ofthese birds were seen the year before, I anxiously watched the horizonfor their appearance. For several days, however, I was doomed todisappointment, and gave it up in despair; but a day or two after, whenin the vicinity of the Tuscarawas river, it being about noon, thehelmsman suddenly called out, "A field of pigeons. " This announcementcalled all hands to the promenade deck of the packet. Looking in thedirection indicated, a heavy black cloud appeared in the far horizon;this seemed to extend from right to left, and was so dense that thenovices amongst us at once pronounced it, either a mistake or a hoax. The helmsman declared that it was neither, and that we should soon beconvinced of it. The cloud seemed now gradually and visibly to spread;in truth, the whole firmament in that direction was totally obscured. Bythis time a general rummage had commenced in the boat for fire-arms; thecaptain hailed the driver on the towing path, who pulled up, and theboat was moored by the canal side. We now landed, intending to replenishthe larder of the vessel with what, to most of the passengers, was arare treat. On the left bank of the canal, and on the banks of theriver, which here ran parallel with it, was a forest of gigantic trees;and, as the birds were evidently making in that direction, it wasdecided that all those who wished to take part in the expected sport, should proceed, and wait their passing this spot, in the hope that somewould settle on the branches of the trees. Accordingly, after crossingthe river by a rude bridge, which was very nearly half a quarter of amile in length, we reached the intended spot after wading up to ourknees in a swamp or turbary, and getting miserably bemauled by thebriars and cane vines. We had not to wait long; the birds, wearied by along flight, were evidently attracted by the favourable resting-place, and in less than a quarter of an hour, the air was darkened with thehosts hovering over our heads; the sound of their wings defiesdescription, those of my readers who remember the peculiar noise made bya single pigeon in its flight, may form a faint idea by multiplying thesound a million times. It in fact filled the air, and produced astartling effect. Thousands of the birds alighted on the trees, thebranches of which snapped and crackled fearfully under thesuperincumbent load; those of our party who were armed, continued tofire and load as fast as they possibly could. They brought hundreds tothe ground, but still, through weariness, perhaps, the rest kept theirstation on the branches, and did not appear to heed the attackmuch--shifting their position or only flying off for a moment and thenagain alighting. By this time many of the settlers from the surroundingdistricts had arrived to share in the quarry. Thousands of birds werebrought to the ground; in fact, every discharge of the guns and riflesbrought down showers to our feet; and the noise seemed to resemble ourbeing engaged in action with a foe; without, however, the dire effectsof such a rencontre to ourselves. After bagging our game, of which wesecured nearly two hundred brace, we returned to the boat, leaving therest of the sport to those who chose to continue it. We had enough, and, for the remainder of the passage, were completely surfeited with pigeonfare, administered by the boat's cook in all sorts of outlandish forms. In our progress onward through the state, we saw many carcases of thesebirds outside the villages, such numbers having been destroyed, that theinhabitants could not consume them, and they were accordingly thrown outas refuse. These birds were in good condition, and were excellenteating. 

As the packet was likely to be detained for some hours at Zoar, asettlement about two miles beyond Bolivar, owing to a dispute betweenthe captain and some officers connected with the canal, I availed myselfof the opportunity, on the invitation of a very gentlemanlyfellow-passenger from Connecticut, to visit a farm a few miles in theinterior, where resided a celebrated character, named Adam Poe, surnamedby the inhabitants, the "Indian-killer, " who had acquired the summit ofa backwoods-man's fame, by some forty years ago shooting "Black-foot, " aformidable Indian marauder, who, for a long period, spread consternationand alarm among the early settlers. As this exploit (whether justifiedby the circumstances and times or not, I cannot pretend to say) was onethat restored security among the settlers, and dispersed a body ofIndians, who destroyed every white inhabitant they encountered, and laidwaste their farms, it is no wonder that Adam Poe was regarded as a greatman. On arriving at the farm-house, which was one of the betterdescription in that region, we were kindly welcomed by the son of thehero I have mentioned, who bore the father's patronymic, and after theusual hospitality, were ushered into an adjoining apartment, andintroduced to the object of our visit. He was sitting in an armchair bythe side of his wife, who, like himself, was far advanced in years, their united ages numbering 173. The old man, who was so feeble as to beunable to rise when we entered, saluted us with the usual "Glad to seeyou, strangers, " his spouse at the same time advancing towards us toshake hands. He was evidently used to such intrusions; for, afterinquiry where we came from and whither bound, he began, in a tremulousvoice, which, from his extreme age, was scarcely intelligible, tonarrate his early adventures. It was absolutely shocking, as he becamemore animated by the subject, to hear the coolness with which theveteran related some of his bloody combats; so much so, indeed, that Iand my companion at once cut short his narration, being horrified at theturpitude of the aged sinner, who, although gasping for breath, andevidently on the verge of the unseen world, talked of his deeds ofviolence with an ardour that befitted a better cause. 

The old man dwelt at great length on his hair-breadth escapes and deedsof prowess; but the destruction of the implacable "Black-foot, " was theabsorbing subject. This chief, it appeared, had, with a small party, been hovering round Poe's farm for several nights, and the inmates werein great terror of a midnight attack; the principal aim of the chief, being, it is supposed to despatch a man, whose activity had rendered himparticularly obnoxious to his tribe, and whose bravery was acknowledgedby the settlers far and near. 

After several nights passed in anxiety, every little circumstance, anyunusual noise, the baying of a dog, a disturbance in the hog-pens, exciting the greatest apprehension, Poe determined on stealthilywatching the enemy under covert of a hillock or embankment on the farm. He accordingly sallied out with his Indian rifle, in the haze of theevening, taking with him a supply of _aqua vitae, _ as he facetiouslysaid, to keep up his "dander. " After watching a considerable time, everynow and then applying his ear to the ground to listen for approachingfootsteps (a plan invariably followed by Indians themselves), heascertained that an Indian was in the vicinity; again intentlylistening, he soon satisfied himself that the alarm he had experiencedwas occasioned by one individual only. Instantly on the _qui-vive, _ hefirst cocked his rifle, and, just as he descried the Indian's headabove the embankment he pulled with unerring aim the fatal trigger, whenwith an agonizing howl, the Indian toppled backwards down theembankment, and all was silent. Poe now sprang forward, and with hisknife severed the "war scalp" from the head of the savage, and aftersecuring his knife and rifle, returned to his home in high glee toannounce the horrid achievement. It was, however, deemed unsafe toventure out again that night, for fear of other Indians of Black-foot'sband, who it was well known were in the neighbourhood. 

In the morning Poe sallied out to the place of reconnoitre with some ofthe inmates of the farm. Here they found, stretched on the ground, weltering in gore, the vanquished warrior, who was now, for the firsttime, from a plume he wore, and some other peculiarity in hisequipments, identified as the veritable "Sachem, " who had for monthskept that settlement in a state of alarm. Poe was soon complimented bythe settlers around, and from that day forward became a celebratedcharacter. 

I was subsequently told on board the canal packet, that the Indianreferred to, was not the notorious chief of that name, but a second-ratewarrior, who, having headed a band of marauders, ***med the soubriquet. How far this may be the fact, I cannot determine. I, however, frequently heard Poe's name mentioned as a brave defender of thehearths and homes of the early settlers in the remote districts of Ohio. 

I could perceive that his son's wife (a matronly dame of about sixty), was adverse to such interviews, as, to use her expression, "they broughtthe old man back to this world again, when he should be pondering on thenext, " and that she was grieved at the recital of them; indeed, sheseveral times checked his expressions, when they bordered, as they notunfrequently did, on impiety. She acted rightly, for there was evidentlymuch more of the soldier than the Christian about the old man, andbefore we left I expressed a hope that such visits would be discouraged, a suggestion that was received in a kindly spirit. 

After inspecting the farm, which was well stocked, and appeared to becultivated in the most approved modern style, and was well fenced withthe usual rails, we started on our return to Zoar, where the packet hadhalted. On our way thither, we passed through a hamlet of primitiveappearance, consisting of some half-dozen houses built of logs, at oneend of which was a rudely-constructed meeting-house, belonging to thesect of Whitfieldite Methodists. The congregation was assembled, and thehorses and vehicles belonging to those who resided at a distance, weretethered and my companion passed, the occupants were chanting a hymnprevious to the discourse, which it appeared was a valedictory one, theminister being about to leave this for a more extensive field ofpastoral labour. Having time to spare, and such an assembly on aweek-day attracting our attention, from its rarity, we stepped in, andremained during the whole of the service, arriving at Zoar a few minutesbefore the boat started. 

As we passed through a densely-wooded district between Bolivar andChillicothe, I observed that for many miles the trees were denuded ofevery green leaf, from the devastating effects of millions of locusts, which periodically visit the western states of the Union, to the dismayof the settlers. The trees in many places were at the time covered withthese destructive insects. I went on shore and procured several, withthe intention of preserving them. They were beautiful creatures, aboutten times the size of an ordinary field grasshopper, and, except thattheir hind legs were longer in proportion to their size, the exact shapeof that harmless little insect. Their colours are brilliant green, slate, and flamingo red, beautifully lined and variegated. The hummingnoise produced by these insects is very disagreeable, and fills thesurrounding air with murmurs, while the wilderness look of the scene oftheir depredations has a depressing effect on the mind of thetraveller. Their visits are much dreaded, as they are followed by thetotal destruction of foliage in the district, and in many instances, theyoung saplings die in consequence of their attacks. 

After a pleasant passage of four or five days, the packet arrived at theriver junction; and taking passage at once in a steamer which waswaiting its arrival in the Ohio river, I was soon rapidly on my way tothat fairy city of the west, Cincinnati. This is the largest city in thestate of Ohio, and is the capital of Hamilton county. Fort Washington, adefence of some renown during the war, is two miles above, and oppositeto the mouth of the Licking river. The broad bosom of the Ohio was herecovered with steam-boats, employed in the Virginia, Missouri, and NewOrleans trade. The wharves are commodious, and a broad inclined plane, from the city to the water's edge, gives the former a fine appearance, as it rests majestically in the background. 

As I was anxious to proceed to the State of Missouri, with as littledelay as possible, I at once engaged a passage to St. Louis, and thefollowing morning was steaming in the direction of the falls of St. Anthony. The passengers in this boat employed themselves nearly thewhole of the route at games of cards, _faro_ being the favourite. Thispredilection for gambling, which is generally carried to great extremeson board southern boats, was not, however, confined to the cabin, for Inoticed the crew, at every spare interval, sitting about on deck, withpacks of cards, completely absorbed in the game. The negro hands wereparticularly addicted to this vice, and a gentleman who was proceedingin the boat informed me that but a trifle of the earnings of boat-handsin general was spared from their devotedness to this ruinous practice. The effect of association with, and the example set by, white men givento gambling, will account, perhaps, for the habit. This moral pestilenceis in vain prohibited by the state, and is pursued by all classes in thesouth with frenzied avidity. 

After twice running on shore, and meeting with sundry other stoppagesand minor mishaps, through the mismanagement of the two engineers, wereached the city of St. Louis, to the gratification of myself andfellow-passengers. This is a place of considerable extent, althoughawkwardly built, and for the most part irregularly laid out. It is aconsiderable fur depôt of the Hudson Bay Company; and there is arecruiting station, from whence start expeditions of trappers to theRocky Mountains. I saw a large party of these adventurers, who wereabout to start on an expedition to these remote confines. It consistedentirely of young Frenchmen and Hollanders, who are preferred for theservice by the company. They were of slight make, and little calculated, from their appearance, to encounter the hardships of such a life; but Iwas told they soon become hardened, and return strong, athletic men. Theemployment is, however, beset with danger, from the hostile dispositionsof the various tribes of Indians in the western wilds, who view theirintrusion with vindictive feelings, and seize every opportunity ofattacking and annihilating small parties, notwithstanding theirprofessions of friendship. Not long after my arrival, a party oftrappers arrived from the Upper Missouri in two boats, which were loadedwith buffalo and other furs. The stalwart look of these hardymountaineers proved the hardening effect of their mode of life. Theywere brawny fellows of a ruddy brown complexion, of the true Indian hue, and habited in skins. These men, I ascertained, had been in themountains for four or five years, during which time they had subsistedentirely on Buffalo and other meat, bread not being used or cared for. Their healthy look under such circumstances completely shook my faith inthe Brahminical vegetarian theory, and goes far, I think, to prove thatman was intended by his Maker to be a carnivorous animal. 

Just before the steamer approached the city, a circumstance occurred onboard that filled me and my fellow-passengers with horror. We weretaking breakfast in the cabin, congratulating each other on the neartermination of our tedious passage, when a sudden shriek, followed byshouts from the deck-hands of the vessel, disturbed our meal. Hasteningin great perturbation to the deck, we soon discovered the cause of thedisturbance. One of the white waiters was lying on the deck, with afrightful gash in his side, from which the blood was fast oozing. Ourfirst care was to attend to the sufferer, and a surgeon beingfortunately amongst the passengers, the hemorrhage was soon abated, butthe wound was pronounced to be of a fatal character. The poor fellow, who was a lad of about eighteen years of age, moaned piteously. Everyattention that skill and kindness could suggest was paid to him. He wasimmediately carried to a state-room in the cabin, where he remained ingreat agony until the vessel was moored alongside the levee, when he wascarefully removed on a litter to a hospital on shore. The perpetrator ofthe savage act proved to be a negro, filling the office of assistantcook. The passengers were very clamorous, and would, without doubt, havehanged the culprit immediately, had it not been for the interference ofthe captain, who, after a curt examination, had him pinioned and takenbelow. From the version given of the affair by the negroes who witnessedit (but which was contradicted by two white men who were on the spot), Iwas inclined to think the crime was committed under feelings of greatprovocation, the negro, as is commonly the case on board steam-boats, having been for a long time browbeaten by the victim of the sadcatastrophe, and subjected to very insolent and overbearing treatment athis hands. The culprit, who was a very sullen, stolid-looking, full-brednegro, refused to answer the questions put to him on the subject, andcertainly manifested a careless indifference to consequences that wasnot in his favour; his fierce scowl denoting great ferocity, in allprobability induced by long ill-treatment. As soon as convenienceallowed, some officers from the shore came on board and secured theprisoner, who was conveyed by them to the city gaol, to await theinvestigation of the outrage by the civic authorities and the result ofthe injury committed. The victim of revenge died a few days after theoccurrence in excruciating agony. It will scarcely be believed that theperpetrator of the deed, after a short confinement, was spirited away upthe country, no doubt at the connivance of the authorities, and sold!

Thus, justice is often defeated, from pecuniary considerations in theSlave States of America, where, if a slave commits even the heinouscrime of murder, the ordinary course of the law is interfered with tosave the owner from loss. This of itself is sufficient to stamp for everas infamous the social cancer of slavery, and brands as ridiculous, theboasted regard for justice, so pragmatically urged in the southernstates of the American continent. 

A mile or two from St. Louis, on the Carondelet road, are situatedspacious infantry barracks, named after Jefferson, one of the formerpresidents of the Union, where troops are stationed in readiness to actagainst the various tribes of Indians in the Upper Missouri country, whosometimes show a disposition to be hostile. A reserve of troops is moreparticularly needful for the protection of the inhabitants; for, eitherfrom mismanagement or an aggressive spirit, the Government iscontinually embroiled with the aboriginal tribes in harassing andexpensive warfare. This state of things acts as a perpetual blister, andhas engendered a rancorous enmity between the Indians and their whiteneighbours, to the great detriment of peaceful agricultural pursuits bythe latter, and the periodical perplexity of the Chancellor of theAmerican Exchequer; whereas, a conciliating policy would not only keepthe tribes in close friendship, but secure their services as valuableallies in case of emergency--a point that may possibly suggest itselfeventually to the executive, if the rampant spirit of aggrandisement nowabroad continues to govern the public mind in America. 

Soon after landing, I was accosted by a middle-aged gentlemanly man, onthe subject of the outrage on board the boat, and as he appeared to haveless of that swaggering air about him than most men in the southpossess, I entered freely into conversation with him, and in a veryshort time our interchange of sentiments created a mutual partiality, that led to his inviting me to pass the following evening at his house, a result I rather wished for, as he manifested a disposition to informme fully on several questions I put to him relative to the state I wasnow in and my future movements; moreover, he seemed somewhat attached tothe English, or rather was not strong in his prejudices against them. 

I accordingly repaired to his residence at the time appointed. This wassituated in one of the lateral streets of the city leading to theoutskirts, and, although not large, was furnished with great taste andelegance. His lady, who was, I think, from Illinois, made herself veryagreeable, her kind attentions tending to confirm the impression Ialready entertained of her countrywomen; they had no children, and thehusband was engaged in some way with the Fur Company established in St. Louis. I was entertained with great hospitality; my kind host materiallyassisting me by information, &c. In my intention to pursue my routesouth. 

He was the son of a New Englander, or native of one of the easternstates; his father having fought at Bunker's Hill, and otherwise takenan active part in the struggle for independence, between the years 1776and 1785. This made it the more extraordinary that he should treat anEnglishman with the courtesy he showed to me, especially as under suchcircumstances a bias is in general handed down from father to son, whichoperates prejudicially to my countrymen. 

After putting a variety of questions, as to the "old country" as hetermed Great Britain, on which I readily satisfied his curiosity, heentered into a detail of some of the stirring events relating to theperiod of his father's career in arms against the British; some of thesewere of a thrilling character, and strongly depicted the miseries ofwar, presenting a lamentable picture of the debasing influence ofsanguinary struggles on the human mind. The barbarous mode of harassingthe British troops, by picking off stragglers, which the lower orders ofAmericans pursued, in most instances for the sake of the wretchedclothing and accoutrements of the victims, the former being dyed of adark colour, and sold for a dollar per set (as he called the militarysuit), to the American citizen-soldiers, fairly made my blood creep; oneinstance in particular filled me with horror, for it was a cold-bloodedmurder of the deepest dye I must, however, do the narrator the justiceto say that he viewed the atrocity in the same light as I did. 

The occurrence I am about to relate, took place somewhere on the banksof the Hudson, below West Point, where a force of British troops wereencamped or pursuing their operations under the protection of somevessels of war lying in the stream, he mentioned the exact spot where itoccurred, but I have forgotten it. It appeared that this force washarassed and beset by parties of citizens, who, by pursuing a guerillasystem of warfare, surprising small parties, and firing entirely inambush, made great havoc amongst the rank and file of the invaders, almost every straggler falling a victim. One evening, during this stateof things, two of the citizens, whilst prowling in a coppice, within afew miles of the camp, on the look-out, came suddenly upon an infantrysoldier, who was off his guard at the moment, and whose firelock wasresting against a tree; the foremost of the Americans darted forward andseized the weapon, while the second captured the wretched soldier. Underordinary circumstances, and in more honourable hands, the man wouldhave been conveyed as a prisoner of war to the American camp, butplunder being their object, this would not answer the purpose of themiscreants, the most resolute of whom ordered the captive (who was a ladof seventeen or eighteen), to take off his jacket. Knowing this was apreliminary step to his being shot, he fell on his knees and imploredmercy. His captors were, however, inexorable, and he began to crybitterly, and besought them to spare his life; these manifestations had, however, no effect on his deadly foes, who now threatened to fell himwith the butt end of a fusee if he did not comply: this had the effect, and the poor captive reluctantly pulled off the jacket and threw it onthe ground; this was immediately picked up by one of the party, to avoidits being stained with the life-blood of the victim. Withdrawing now afew paces, one of the Americans took a deliberate aim; the young soldierinstantly turned to run, but as he wheeled round for the purpose (forhis enemies were facing him), a ball entered his left side, just underthe armpit, and springing frantically several feet into the air, he felldead to the ground. He was then stripped, and left on the spot. 

This horrid relation I should have thought, for the credit of hiscountry, an American would have kept secret; but as I before observed, he was by no means disposed to take the part of these so-calledpatriots, although he stated that many atrocities were committed by theBritish, some of which he related, and which were, he said, neverrecorded; these, I fear, if exposed, would not much redound to theircredit with the present generation. 

At first I could not understand why the soldier was ordered before beingshot to pull his jacket off; this he explained by saying, that a rent inthe garment made by the ball of a fusee, would have lessened its value;and further, that the American soldiers were averse, from superstitiousfear at the time, to wearing any article of dress in which an enemy hadyielded his breath; notwithstanding which repugnance, the Americansoldiers not long after dismissed the objection, from the extremescantiness of the clothing afforded them. 

On my intimating the abhorrence I felt at the relation, my entertainerinformed me that it was impossible at the time to prevent suchoccurrences, the annihilation of the invaders was the _primum mobile_ ofall Americans, and many citizens harassed the enemy on their ownaccount, the principle being the same on which European vessels bearingletters of marque, are suffered to waylay and seize, for the purpose ofprivate gain, the merchant vessels belonging to the country with whichthey are at war. Such atrocities, as he remarked, however horrifying intimes of peace, are of every-day occurrence between contending armies. 

Amongst those I had occasion to call on at St. Louis, was a Major ----. He had formerly been engaged in Indian warfare, and, having received awound from a rifle-ball, that incapacitated him for active militaryduty, he was living as a retired citizen--his wife's jointure, and anallowance from Government, allowing him to keep up a tolerably goodestablishment. He was the owner of several slaves, and, amongst therest, a young woman who was employed as nursemaid in the family. Thefirst time I called at his residence, I thought him a man of superiormanners and education, and was much pleased with the visit, which wasconcluded with a promise to renew it on a future day. When, however, Irepeated my visit soon after, I found him alone in his study, and hisconstrained manner soon led me to perceive that something unusualperturbed his mind. The cause was soon after explained, for, thenegress, before mentioned, coming into the room on some trifling errand, to my surprise accosted him rather freely. Her master suddenly broke outin a paroxysm of rage, swore at her awfully, and accused her in aruffianly way of being insolent to her mistress. Then, violently ringinga bell which stood on the table, he summoned a negro lad into the room, and at once despatched him to a neighbour's house to borrow a newraw-hide whip, threatening all the while to flay her alive. In vain theterrified creature pleaded innocence; he would take no excuse, and, although I begged earnestly for him to pass over the offence, and thepoor slave fell on her knees in the greatest terror, he vowed vengeancewith dreadful imprecations. At last the whip came, and, disregardingalike the presence of a stranger, and the entreaties of a woman, hebegan the flagellation with murderous earnest. My interference onlyadded to his ungovernable rage. The raw-hide was new, and the majorbeing a strong, muscular man, every stroke told. The blood soon flowedfrom the back, neck, and breasts, of the poor victim, whose cries, asshe writhed under the savage infliction, entered my soul. They, however, made no impression on her brutal tormentor, who kept vociferating withall his energy to keep her quiet. It was with some difficulty I stood byand witnessed the assault, but I well know my life would be in jeopardyif I attempted to interfere. I, however, screwed up my courage to stay, in the hope that some sense of shame might induce the fellow to hold hishand. This was, however, a delusive hope, for he continued to lay onthe whip until he was exhausted. 

The girl was now on the floor of the room, moaning piteously, and astream of blood was flowing from her lacerated person, which soaked thematting that covered the floor. Her dress was hanging in tatters, andthe blood trickling down her cheeks had a horrifying effect. As soon asthe ruffian was tired, he bid the woman get down stairs and washherself. The miserable creature arose with difficulty, and picking upher apron and turban, which were in different parts of the room, shehobbled out crying bitterly. As soon as she was gone, the major pointedto the blood, and said, "If we did not see that sometimes, there wouldbe no living with the brutes;" to which I replied in terms he could notmisunderstand, and at once left the house, determined never again toenter it--a resolution I religiously kept. I afterwards heard that thismiserable creature was pregnant at the time, a circumstance that wouldhave induced at least some regard to leniency in any man not utterlydebased. 

Those who are acquainted with southern scenes will see nothingextraordinary in this recital, for they are every-day occurrences, andscarcely elicit a remark, unless the perpetrator should happen to be aslave-holding Wesleyan or Whitfieldite, when, perhaps, he would becalled to some account--his own version of the affair being of courseadmitted _in limine_. Many of the slave-holders are an incorrigiblydegraded set of men. It is by no means uncommon for them to inflictchastisement on negresses with whom they are in habitual illicitintercourse, and I was credibly informed that this cruelty was oftenresorted to, to disabuse the mind of a deceived and injured wife whosuspects unfair treatment. This attested fact, disgraceful as it is, canscarcely be wondered at in men who mercilessly subject defenceless womento the lash without a spark of human feeling, or compunction ofconscience. It is little to the credit of United States senators thatthey have not at least made laws to protect women from the barbaroususage of flogging. One would imagine that men, who, perhaps, above allothers in the world, pay homage to the sex, would have established adistinction in this respect; but I apprehend the truth to be, that theyare so far influenced by their wives, who are notoriously jealous oftheir sable rivals, that they have succumbed to their sentiments anddictation. 

There are many Dutch in St. Louis, and along the levee you perceiveboarding-houses and groceries kept for their accommodation. These menare generally great drinkers, and think as little of quaffing at a fewdraughts half-a-pint of whiskey, as an Englishman would the samequantity of malt liquor. They consume, also, vast quantities of claret. I have frequently seen a couple of these men at a café, drink five orbottles without betraying any ill effects. It must, however, beremembered that claret is not so potent as the heavier wines. 

A few days after my arrival, while standing in the vestibule of myhotel, my attention was drawn to a loud altercation going on at the bar, and as it was evident, from the manner of the parties, that some publicquestion was being discussed, I listened, and ascertained that anobnoxious citizen had been seized for perpetrating a petty act ofrevenge on a neighbour by damaging his horse, and was that day to bepublicly tarred, feathered, and escorted out of the city, as they said, bag and baggage. Having ascertained the spot selected for the scene, Idetermined to witness it. Accordingly, at noon, the appointed hour, Irepaired to an open spot of building-land on the Carondelet side of thecity. Here I found assembled a motley assemblage of citizens, negroes, steamboat-hands, and the general riff-raff of the place. Although thecrowd was not so great, the meeting strongly reminded me of those scenesof infamy and disgrace in England--public executions; the conduct of theassembled throng on this occasion being the more decorous of the two. Precisely at twelve, the mob made a rush towards one corner of the openspace, from which direction I saw the culprit advancing, in charge ofthirty or forty well-dressed people (the committee appointed for theoccasion being among the number). He was a stout man, and described tome as a great bully; but now he looked completely crest-fallen. As theparty came on, he was hissed by the mob, who, however, kept at a gooddistance from his guard. A man, with a large tin can of smoking pitch, abrush of the kind used in applying the same, and a pillow of feathersunder his arm, followed immediately behind the prisoner, vociferatingloudly. Arrived at the spot, the poor wretch was placed on a stool, anda citizen, who had taken a very prominent part in front of theprocession, and who, I was told, was the chief cause of this outrage, stepped in front of him, and pulling out a sheet of paper, read alecture on the enormity of his crime, which wound up with the sentenceabout to be enforced. When this was finished, the man who carried thetar-vessel stepped up, and began, with a scissors, to cut off theculprit's hair, which he did most effectually, flinging portions amongstthe crowd, who scrambled after them. As soon as this was finished, andthe man was stripped to the waist, the brush was dipped into the pitch, and the upper part of his person lathered therewith. Not a word escapedhim, but the individual who had taken so prominent a part in thepunishment, kept giving directions to the operator to put it on thick. Even his eyes and ears were not spared. As soon as this part of theoperation was complete, the bag of feathers was ripped open by aby-stander, and the contents stuck thickly on the parts besmeared withtar, amidst the deafening cheers of the spectators, who were by thistime in such frantic excitement that I began to fear a tragedy wouldensue, especially as many of them shouted, "Now hang the varmint! hanghim!" This proposal was eagerly seconded by the mob. This was, however, resolutely overruled by his keepers. The appearance presented by thevictim, in this peculiarly American dress, was ludicrous in the extreme, and _looked_ very comfortable. As soon as this part of the exhibitionwas finished, a man, with a small drum, followed by the mob, with yellsand execrations drove the culprit before them at a run. The poor wretchran like a deer from his pursuers, who followed at his heels, shoutingfrantically, until he reached the brink of the river, where a boat waswaiting to take him off. He dashed into it, and was at once rowed intothe middle of the stream, out of reach of his tormentors, who, I quitebelieve, would have administered more severe lynch-law if they couldhave got hold of him, for their passions were wrought up to the highestpitch of excitement. One feature in the scene I could not helpremarking--the negroes all appeared in high glee, and many of themactually danced with joy. I did not wonder at this, for the negroesalways seemed to exult if a white man was in disgrace; which, after all, is no more than might be expected from a class of men tyrannized over asthe coloured people are there, and is one of the results of theoppressive system that exacts everything that human labour can furnish, without remuneration, and without (in by far the greater number ofinstances) any approach to sympathy or grateful feeling. This alone, without taking into consideration the outrages inflicted on the race bytheir cruel oppressors, supplies a sufficient cause for such a tendency, if every other were wanting. 

Passing through the principal street the day before I left St Louis, anassembly of men, chiefly overseers and negro dealers, who stood at theentrance of a large store, attracted my attention. Large placards, witha description of various lots of negroes to be submitted to publiccompetition, soon told me I should now be able to gratify my curiosityby witnessing a Missouri slave-vendue. A man with a bell, which he rangmost energetically at the door, shortly after summoned the company, theauction being about to commence. On a table inside, a negress, of alittle over middle age, was standing, vacantly gazing with grief-worncountenance on the crowd that now thronged to the table. On the floorstood two children, of about the ages of ten and thirteen respectively. The auctioneer, with the customary volubility of such men in America, began by stating, that the lots now to be offered were the remnants of apreceding sale, which he gratuitously observed had been a mostsatisfactory one, and after dilating with some energy on the goodqualities of the woman before us, whose face brightened up a little onhearing such a flattering account of her good qualities, he earnestlyrequested a bidding. The poor creature was evidently in ill-health. After the most revolting questions had been put to her, and her personexamined by the competitors with disgraceful familiarity, she waspronounced all but worthless, "used up, " as one of the company observed, and was, after much demur on the part of the auctioneer, knocked downfor two hundred dollars; this sum being, as he remarked, but the moietyof what she ought to have realized. She was then roughly told to get offthe table, and take her stand near it, at a place pointed out by herpurchaser, who was a rollicking-looking, big-whiskered fellow, with animmense Leghorn hat, the brim of which was lined with black, and havinga broad black ribbon round the crown. As the poor woman got down, shecast a furtive glance at her children, who, although the auctioneercertainly tried to prevent it, were sold to two individuals, neither ofwhom was the purchaser of the parent. The poor woman looked about ingreat despair while the bidding was going on. It was in vain I soughtone sympathizing look in that company; but how could it be expected, when it consisted of men long inured to such heartless scenes--men whosehearts were case-hardened by the impious traffic they were now engagedin. I was, however, pleased to hear afterwards that the purchasers allresided in St. Louis, and that the woman would often see herchildren--poor amends it is true for a cruel separation, but moresatisfactory than such cases generally are. 

CHAPTER IV. 

 "Where Will-o'-the-wisps and glow-worms shine, In bulrush and in brake; Where waving mosses shroud the pine, And the cedar grows, and the poisonous vine Is spotted like the snake. "--LONGFELLOW. 

From St. Louis, on the Missouri river, I took passage to New Orleans, inone of those magnificent steamers that crowd the inland waters of theAmerican continent, and which, sumptuously furnished as they are, havenot inaptly been termed "floating palaces. " We had a prosperous passageas far as the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi, where the boatstruck the branches of a large tree, that had been washed into the bedof the stream, and was there stuck fast, root downwards. This formidablechevaux-de-frise (or snag, as it was termed by the captain) fortunatelydid not do much damage to the vessel, although at first an alarm wasraised that she was sinking, and much confusion ensued. Thisapprehension was, however, soon dissipated by the report of thecarpenter, whose account of the damage was so far favourable, that afterextrication by backing the vessel, and a few temporary repairs, she wasagain got under headway. 

The pellucid waters of the Ohio, as they enter the turbid rushingcurrent of the Mississippi, which is swollen by the Illinois and othertributaries, has a remarkable effect, the clear current of the formerriver refusing, for a considerable distance, to mingle with the murkystream of the latter, and forming a visible blue channel in itscentre--a phenomenon I thought allegorical of the slave-stainedcondition of the one state, and the free soil of the other, for whileOhio is free from the curse of slavery, the banks of the Mississippihave for centuries been deep dyed in the life's blood of the oppressedAfrican. 

Our vessel was borne on the rushing waters with great impetuosity, themaddening current of the Mississippi seeming to carry everything beforeit. As we proceeded we constantly saw trees topple over into the river, the banks of which are continually widening, and which in many parts hasthe appearance of a lake after a storm, impregnated with debris. Thetrees, thus washed into the bed of the river, sink root downwards andmake the navigation perilous, as I have before described. We metnumerous steamers coming up the stream, one of them having a freight ofIndians from Florida, removing to the western frontier, under thesurveillance of U. S. Soldiery and government agents. The compulsoryremoval of Indians, from one remote state to another, whenever newterritory is needed, forms a disgraceful feature in internal Americanpolicy. Transported to new hunting grounds, the poor Indians are broughtinto contact with other tribes, when feuds arise from feelings ofjealousy, and the new-comers are often annihilated in a few years. Manytribes have thus become totally extinct, and the remainder are rapidlybecoming so. As the steamer passed us with her freight of red men theyset up a loud yell, which reverberated through the forests on theriver-shores. It sounded to me very much like defiance, and probablywas, for they execrate the white men as hereditary enemies, and feeldeeply the wrongs inflicted on their people. 

All the steamers we met were more or less crowded with passengers, thevisages of many of whom bore traces of fever and ague, and who were, doubtless, removing to a healthier climate. This insidious disease oftenterminates fatally in the cities and districts skirting the swamps ofLouisiana, and, to avoid its baneful effects, the more affluent peoplemigrate south-west or north when the sickly season sets in. The yellowfever is also very fatal in such situations, and annually claims numbersof victims. 

We had by this time reached that latitude where perpetual summer reigns. The banks of the mighty Mississippi, which has for ages rolled on inincreasing grandeur, present to the eye a wilderness of sombre scenery, indescribably wild and romantic. The bays, formed by the current, arechoked with palmetto and other trees, and teem with alligators, water-snakes, and freshwater turtle, the former basking in the sun inconscious security. Overhead, pelicans, paroquets, and numberless other

 "Strange bright birds on their starry wings, Bear the rich hues of all glorious things;"

while the gorgeous magnolia, in luxuriant bloom, and a thousand otherevergreens, on shore, vie with voluptuous aquatic flowers to bewilderand delight the astonished traveller, accustomed hitherto only to themore unassuming productions of the sober north. Everything here was new, strange, and solemn. The gigantic trees, encircled by enormous vines, and heavily shrouded in grey funereal moss, mournfully waving in thebreeze--the doleful night-cry of the death-bird and thewhip-poor-will--the distant bugle of the advancing boats--the moan ofthe turbid current beneath--the silent and queenly moon above, appearingnearer, larger, and brighter than in our cooler latitudes--the sultryatmosphere--and most of all, perhaps, the sense of the near vicinity ofdeath in this infected region--oppressed my spirit with an ominousfeeling of solemnity and awe. 

As we passed the plantations which here and there varied the scene, gangs of negroes could be seen at labour--their sturdy overseers, ofruffianly mien, prowling sulkily about, watching every motion of thebondsmen, whip in hand; which weapon they applied with the most wantonfreedom, as if the poor sufferers were as destitute of physicalsensation, as they themselves were of moral or humane feeling. Armedwith a huge bowie-knife and pistols, these embruted creatures were verycut-throats in appearance; and it is well known there, that theirconduct in general towards those they lord over, justifies theappellation I have given them. 

The steamer halted at intervals to take in wood, which is invariablyused, instead of coal as in England. This is piled in parrallelograms onthe banks--the logs being split longitudinally. This forms a source ofgood profit, and is, in many instances, the chief maintenance of thesqualid settlers of these plague-stricken and unwholesome places. Afterthe measurement of the pile by the mate or captain, the deck-passengersand boat-hands stow it away in the vicinity of the furnaces--it beingpart of the terms of passage, that the lower order of passengers shallassist in the operation. This is much disliked by the latter, and manyof the Germans of this class on board, endeavoured to escape thelaborious duty by hiding amongst the packages on deck. A general searchwas, however, instituted by the officers of the vessel, just before itstopped at a wooding-station--and the skulkers were brought out, amidstthe clamorous jeers of their fellows. The class of passengers I havejust referred to, consisted chiefly of Germans and Irish, who, althoughthere is no professed distinction, bargain for a deck-passage, thecharge being better suited to their means. Amongst the objects thatarrested my attention, as our vessel floated majestically down theturbid current, were gibbets standing on the banks, depending fromseveral of which were short chains, doubtless required occasionally incarrying out this kind of discipline. As the horrifying objects occurredat intervals of a few miles, I at first imagined they were cranes usedto lower bales of cotton into the holds of vessels, and addressing apassenger whose physiognomy prepossessed me in his favour, and who hadseveral times shown a disposition to impart the knowledge he possessedconcerning the objects around, he soon convinced me of my mistake, adding, that such engines were as necessary to the proper discipline ofthe negroes in that latitude as the overseer himself. He then proceededto detail several instances of fugitive negroes being dragged in captureto the foot of the gallows, where, with halter-encircled necks, theywere made not only to acknowledge the error committed and exposeaccessories, but "pumped dry, " as he facetiously termed it, as to theintended flight of other negroes on the estate. Sometimes, he said, itwas necessary to suspend the culprit for a moment or so, to intimidate, but this was only in cases where the victim (he used the word rascal)was inclined to be sullen, and refused readily to give the requiredinformation. I inquired whether it ever occurred that actual executiontook place; to this my new acquaintance replied, "Wall, yes, where thenigger had dar'd to strike a white man;" but that it was usual to go toa magistrate first, in such cases. The appearance of these gibbets, after the information I had received respecting them from myslave-holding acquaintance, made my flesh creep as we steamed onwards, the more so as, in many of the grounds skirting the river, where thesesombre murky-looking objects presented themselves to the gaze of thetraveller, gangs of negroes were at work, looking up complacently for amoment as the vessel glided by. I was subsequently told by a gentlemanwho had been long resident in the state of Louisiana, that no punishmentso effectually strikes with terror the negro mind, as that of hanging, the very threat being sufficient to subdue (in general) the mosthardened offenders. This I do not wonder at, for perhaps there are fewfield-hands living in the south but have, at some time or other, witnessed the barbarities used at a negro execution, sudden death bypistol or bowie knife being far preferable to the brutal sneers andindignities heaped upon the victim by the cowardly assassins whosuperintend such operations. 

The monotony of the scenes which had for a thousand miles rendered thepassage irksome, began to break as we approached Natchez. This placetakes its name from the Natch-i-toches, or Red River, which falls intothe Mississippi, the abbreviation being a corruption of the originalIndian name, which is as above stated. The town stands on a declivity orbluff, and is of considerable extent. I did not visit it, although theboat halted for a considerable time, to land letter-bags and passengers. I was informed by a fellow-passenger of gentlemanly bearing, whoresided in the vicinity, that it was a dissipated place, and gamblingthe chief occupation of its inhabitants. The locality has beenremarkable for landslips, owing to the siliceous nature of the soil; Isaw traces of a fearful catastrophe of the kind which had, some timebefore, buried or destroyed many of the houses and their occupants, theenormous mass having also sunk several steam-boats and other vesselswhich were moored at the foot of the bluff under the town. 

After leaving Natchez, we steamed away with renewed vigour towards thatcentre of slavery and dissipation, New Orleans, and were in due coursemoored to the levee, which extends the whole river-length of the city, and is about a mile in extent. The first news I heard, and which alarmedme not a little, was that the yellow fever was at this time raging inthe city. New Orleans is just fifty-four miles from the mouth of theMississippi, and being built at the time of the Orleans Regency, contains many ancient structures. Its inhabitants, even to this day, areto a great extent either French or of Gaelic origin. It lies exceedinglyflat, which causes the locality to be unhealthy and ill-suited toEuropean constitutions; the soil is, however, fertile and rich; this is, perhaps, to be accounted for by the constant irrigation it undergoesfrom the overflowing of the Mississippi, which, like another Nile, periodically submerges the country around its banks. The town issituated on the east side of the river. 

The vast quantity of shipping of all classes in the harbour is a verystriking feature in this extensive and wealthy city. The bad eminence towhich New Orleans has attained is painful to contemplate. Its wealth ispurchased by the blood and tears of thousands of slaves, who are dailyexposed like cattle in its markets; and this fact operates on the mindof an Englishman to the prejudice of its inhabitants. I was myselffilled with disgust towards the whites, as well as pity towards theblacks, on beholding, immediately on our arrival, a gang of forty orfifty negroes, of both sexes, and nearly all ages, working in shackleson the wharf. These, I was informed, were principally capturedfugitives; they looked haggard and care-worn, and as they toiled withtheir barrows with uncovered heads, under a burning sun, they weremercilessly lashed with a heavy slave-whip, by a tall, athletic negro, who acted as overseer, and who, with refined cruelty, dispensed thepunishment alike on stout men, slender youths, and thin attenuatedfemales. Our arrival having attracted the notice of the gang, andinduced a momentary halt in their work, the unfeeling wretch commenceda furious onslaught with the whip, each crack of which, followed, as itwas, by the groans or cries of the sufferer, roused the indignantfeelings of the passengers, many of whom were from the free states, andwho simultaneously raised a yell of execration which made the welkinresound, and caused the cruel driver to stand aghast. This demonstrationdrew a remonstrance from the captain, who represented to the passengersthe danger of such conduct, and concluded by observing that if it wasrepeated, it would probably arouse the indignation of the citizens, whowere very bigoted. He should be sorry, he added, to be obliged to putthe vessel about again, a proceeding that might be necessary for thesafety of all on board, unless they were more cautious. Some of thepassengers seemed disposed to dispute this argument, but they wereoverruled by the majority, who, better acquainted with southern usages, prejudices, and barbarities, thought that discretion under thecircumstances would be the better part of valour. I afterwards foundthat the captain's view was a strictly correct one, for so jealous arethe citizens of men entertaining hostility to the pro-slavery cause, that spies are often sent on board newly-arrived boats, to ascertain ifmissionaries are amongst the passengers. These spies, with Jesuiticalart, introduce themselves by making apparently casual inquiries onleading topics of those they suspect, and if their end is subserved, basely betray them, or, what is more usual, keep them under strictsurveillance, with a view to their being detected in disseminatingabolition doctrines amongst the slaves, when they are immediately madeamenable to the laws, and are fined or imprisoned. 

On landing, I hired a sorry conveyance, driven by a creole and drawn bya mule, and had my luggage taken to a house in the suburbs, where I hadbeen recommended to take up my residence during my stay, which, owing tothe presence of the yellow fever, that daily carried off numbers ofvictims, I had determined, contrary to my original intention, should beshort. 

The crowds of people on the levee, attracted by the constant arrival ofsteam-boats, had a motley appearance; many of these were rough-lookingfellows, fit for any occupation, most of them being armed with bowieknives, the silver hilts of which could often be seen peeringsuspiciously from under the waistcoat, in the inner lining of which acase or scabbard of leather is sewn for the reception of the weapon. Thevast proportion of blacks in the streets soon struck me. I should thinkthey were five to one of the white population. These, for the most part, wore in wretched plight; many of them begged of the passers-by, whichpractice I found afterwards to be very general, especially in thesuburbs of the city. 

Amongst the passengers on our boat, was a person, apparently of thebetter class, who was met at the levee by two black servants with acarriage. I noticed particularly, that, although the negroes touchedtheir hats, and inquired how he was (by which I concluded he had beenabsent for some time), he did not deign to answer their inquiries. Fromtheir timidity, it was evident that he was an overbearing man, and theimperial haughtiness manifested in giving them his orders, confirmedthis impression. This individual was one of those who condemned thedemonstration I have noticed, when the boat first approached the levee. 

After a day's rest at my boarding-house, I walked through the city, andafterwards visited the calaboose, which in New Orleans is a mart forproduce, as well as a place of detention and punishment for slaves. Herethose owners who are averse to correcting their slaves in a rigorousmanner at home, send them to be flogged. The brutal way in which this isdone at the calaboose, strikes terror into the negro mind, and thethreat is often sufficient to tame the most incorrigible. Instances, Iwas told, have often occurred of negroes expiring under the severity ofthe discipline here; but it was remarked that the pecuniary lossattendant on such casualties made the keepers careful not to exceed thephysical endurance of the sufferer, and that they were so wellacquainted with negro constitutions that it was a rare exception fordeath to ensue. The punishment, however, almost always resulted in thevictim being invalided and unfitted for exertion for a considerabletime. 

I believe New Orleans to be as vile a place as any under the sun; aperfect Ghetto or cursed place; in fact, it is the rendezvous ofrenegades of all nations, and hordes of negro traders and planters areto be seen flocking round the hotels. These are extensive patrons of thegambling-houses; and the faro, _rouge-et-noir, _ roulette, and otherestablishments, fitted up with gorgeous saloons, are generally crowdedwith them. As you pass, you may observe the frequenters of such placesin dozens, deeply engaged in play, while the teller of the establishmentsits at a table with a huge heap of Spanish doubloons or Mexican milldollars before him, which he adds to or takes from with the tact of abanker's clerk, as the chances of luck may arise. Violence and Woodshedhave been indigenous to this city from time immemorial, and feuds areinstantly settled by an appeal to the bowie knife, or ever-readyrevolver. Highway robberies are very frequent, and I was told it wasmore than your life was worth to be out after dark, in certainlocalities, unless armed and on your guard. The police authorities are, nevertheless, vigilant, and the magistrates severe, so that manydesperadoes are brought to justice. 

The suburbs of New Orleans lie low, and the swampy soil emits apoisonous miasma. This is, without doubt, the cause of virulentepidemics that visit the city annually with direful effect. Thousandsfly to the northern states, to escape the contagion; but there are manywho, for want of means, are obliged to risk a continued residence atsuch periods, and it is amongst those that the yellow fever, the ague, or the flux, plays dreadful havoc. It is the custom for the smallstore-keepers, as well as the more affluent merchants, to confide theiraffairs at such seasons to others, and I have frequently seenadvertisements in the _New Orleans Picayune_, and other papers, offeringa gratuity to persons to undertake the charge in their absence. 

The heat, although the summer was not far advanced, was excessive, andthe thousands of mosquitoes that filled the air, especially after a fallof rain, when they seemed to burst into life in myriads spontaneously, kept up an increasing annoyance. At night this was ten-fold, fornotwithstanding the gauze awnings, or bars, as they are called, whichcompletely enveloped the bedstead, to the floor of the room, they foundadmittance with pertinacious audacity, and kept up a buzzing and hummingabout my ears that almost entirely deprived me of rest. This unceasingnuisance in the hot season, makes it difficult to keep one's equanimityof temper, and has, probably, much to do with that extreme irascibilityshown by the southern inhabitants of the American continent. 

The appearance and situation of hundreds of quadroon females in thiscity, soon attracted my attention, and deserve notice. I saw numbers ofthem not only at the bazaars or shops making purchases, but riding insplendid carriages through the streets. So prodigal are these poordeluded creatures of their money, that, although slaves and liable toimmediate sale at the caprice of their keepers, they have often beenknown to spend in one afternoon 200 dollars in a shopping excursion. Endowed with natural talents, they are readily instructed in everyaccomplishment, requisite to constitute them charming companions. Oftenas a carriage dashes by, the pedestrian is able to catch a glimpse ofsome jewelled and turbaned sultana, of dazzling beauty, attended by hermaid, who does not always possess a sinecure, for the mistress is oftenhaughty, proud, and petulant, very hard to please, and exacts greatdeference from her inferiors. Many of them live in regal splendour, andeverything that wealth and pampered luxury can bestow is theirs, as longas their personal charms remain; but when their beauty has ceased togratify the passions of their masters, they are, in most instances, castoff, and frequently die in a condition which presents the greatestpossible contrast to their former gay but not happy life. 

 "Oh that they had earlier died, Sleeping calmly side by side, Where the tyrant's power is o'er, And the fetter galls no more. "

Many of such poor outcasts are to be found scattered all over the slavestates, some employed as field hands, but in general they are selectedas domestics, their former habits of luxury and ease rendering theirconstitutions too delicate for the exposure of ordinary field labour. Itis not, however, as the reader will have observed, commiseration thatsaves them from that degradation. As soon as beauty begins to fade, which in southern climes it does prematurely, the unfeeling owners ofthese unfortunates succeed in ridding themselves of what is nowconsidered a burden, by disposing of the individual to some heartlesstrader. This is done unknown to the victim, and the news, when itreaches her, drives her almost frantic; she at once seeks herperfidious paramour, and finds to her dismay, that he has been gonesome days on a tour to the provinces, and is, perhaps, a thousand milesoff. Tears and protestations avail her nothing, the trader isinexorable, she belongs to him by law, and go she must; at length, having vainly expended her entreaties, she becomes calm, and submits insullen apathy to her wretched fate. This is the ordinary history of suchcases. 

Considering it unsafe to remain longer in this infected city, from thereports that the fever was gaining ground, I now made preparations forleaving New Orleans, and as I had made an engagement to manage theaffairs of a gentleman in Florida, during his absence at Washington, Idetermined to proceed thither with the least possible delay. Infurtherance of this object I made inquiries for a conveyance by water toSt. Marks, giving the preference to steam. In this object I was, however, disappointed, and was obliged to take a passage on board abrig, about to sail for that obscure port. The vessel was towed down tothe balize or mouth of the Mississippi, in company with two others, by adeparting steamer, which had on board the mail for Bermuda and St. George's Island. Arrived at the balize, whose banks for several milesare overflowed by the sea, I saw a small fleet of vessels, some outwardand some inward bound. Amongst these was a United States ship of war, of great beauty, carrying heavy guns. A boat from this vessel, in chargeof an officer, boarded us, and delivered to the captain a sealed packet, which I understood to be a dispatch, addressed to General Taylor, theofficer in command of the troops operating against the Indians inFlorida. 

The coast about the balize is low and swampy, and everywhere abounds inrush and cane brakes which give its sea-beach a desolate appearance. These morasses harbour thousands of alligators, whose roar had asingular effect as it rose above the breeze. Flocks of aquatic birdswere to be seen on every side, the most numerous being the pelican, anda bird of the cotinga species, about the size of an English throstle, the plumage of which, being jet black and flamingo red, had a beautifuleffect in the sunshine, as they flew or settled in thousands on thecanes. 

Our passage across the Gulf of Mexico was a favourable one, but whenwithin forty miles of our destination, the vessel struck on a hiddensand-bank. The fog was so dense, that the captain had been mistaken inhis reckoning, and had taken a wrong course. For a considerable time wewere in great jeopardy, and every attempt to get the ship again afloatwas unavailing; and, had not the weather been moderate, there is littledoubt but that she would have been lost, and our lives placed in greatperil. After some hours' exertion, during which an anchor was lost, anda quantity of iron thrown overboard, we had the satisfaction to findthat the vessel was adrift. This was a great relief to us, for had agale sprung up in the night, which was closing in, we must have taken tothe boat, and abandoned the vessel, a perilous undertaking, from whichwe all felt too happy to have escaped. I was told by the captain thatthe coast here abounds with hidden sand-banks of the description we hadencountered. This, perhaps, together with the poor harbour accommodationin Florida, accounts for the small size of the vessels which generallytrade there. 

The desolate look of the coast from the deck of the vessel, did notconvey to my mind a very favourable impression of the country, and thehostile disposition of the Indians tended not a little to exciteforebodings of evil, that at one time almost induced me to abandon myintention, and return to the north. These apprehensions were, however, allayed by the representations of the captain of the vessel, who statedthat the Indians seldom attempted to molest armed parties, and that anunderstanding with the government was daily expected, through the recentcapture of some important sachems or chiefs, under whose influence andleadership hostilities had been carried on. This information reassuredme, and I determined to proceed, although I found afterwards that it wasalmost entirely a misrepresentation, which, however, I cannot believewas wilful, as the captain would have had me for a passenger on thereturn voyage. 

I soon after landed in a boat from the shore. The bay or harbour of St. Marks is not attractive, neither is the town, which presents a desolateappearance. The houses or stores are chiefly of wood, painted white, thevenetian blinds of the houses being green, as in most parts of theUnited States. The hotel-entrances were crowded with loungers, insnow-white clothing, large Leghorn or palmetto hats, and fancy-colouredshirts, who smoked cigars incessantly, and generally discussed withenergy the inroads of the Indians, or other leading topics of the day. The houses are low and irregularly built, and the appearance of thewhole place and its inhabitants, as far as I could see, wore aforbidding aspect, and was indicative of anything but prosperity. 

My next stage was to Tallahassee by railroad, through a desolate-lookingcountry, whose soil was sand, and whose vegetation looked stunted, presenting little to cheer the senses, or call forth remark; in fact, everything around told of a country whose centre is flourishing, butwhose frontiers are a wilderness. Just before we started, awell-dressed negro, apparently a footman or butler, applied for a seatin the carriage. He was told by the station-keeper, that there was noconveyance for "niggers" this train, and he must wait for the followingone. He at first disputed his right to refuse him a passage in thecarriage, which roused the ire of the station-keeper, who threatened tokick him if he was not soon off. This seemed to awe him, for he quietlyleft the station, muttering, however, as he went, his intention ofreporting the circumstance to Colonel Gambole. This caused me to makesome inquiry about the colonel whose name he had mentioned, and who Ilearned was his master. I was also informed that no negroes in thatdistrict were so insolent, owing to the indulgence with which all hishands were treated. I could see, however, that the negro had differentmen to deal with here, and if he had not taken his departure, he would, without a doubt, have been kicked or felled to the ground, on the leastfurther provocation--a course pursued without hesitation in cases wherea negro assumes anything like equality in the south. 

CHAPTER V. 

 "The fragrant birch above him hung Her tassels in the sky, And many a vernal blossom sprung, And nodded careless by. But there was weeping far away; And gentle eyes for him, With watching many an anxious day, Were sorrowful and dim. "--BRYANT. 

Florida, in which state I now found myself, is divided into East, West, and Middle. It is a wild extent of country, about 300 miles from northto south. The king of Spain held possession of the territory in 1810, but it was afterwards ceded by treaty to the Federal Government. It wasdiscovered in 1497 by Sebastian Cabot. St. Augustine is the capital ofEast, and Pensacola of West, Florida. This country is, for the mostpart, a howling wilderness, and is never likely to become thicklypopulated. The dreary pine-barrens and sand-hills are slightlyundulating, and are here and there thickly matted with palmetto. 

In pursuance of my original design, I had now to penetrate nearly ahundred miles into the interior; and, as the Indians and fugitivenegroes were scouring that part of the country in hostile bands, Icontemplated this part of my route with no little anxiety. I determined, however, to proceed. The journey lay through a wild country, intersectedwith streams and rivers, every one of which swarmed with alligators. This, although not a very pleasant reflection, did not trouble me much, as I had by this time become acquainted with the propensities of thesecreatures, and knew that they were not given to attacking white men, unless provoked or wounded, although a negro or a dog is never safewithin their reach. They are, however, repulsive-looking creatures, andit is not easy to divest the mind of apprehension when in theirvicinity. 

My destination was an inlet of the sea, called Deadman's Bay, fromwhence it was my intention, after transacting some business I hadundertaken, to take passage by steamer to Cuba, intending to return tothe continent, after a limited stay there, and on some of the adjacentislands. In this, however, I was disappointed, as I shall by-and-byshow. My plan was to travel by easy stages under escort, and encamp outat night; so, having secured the services of six men, who were wellarmed and mounted on horseback, and having furnished ourselves with atent and other necessaries, which were carried by individuals of theparty, we left Tallahassee, on our way inland, under a scorching sun. Wecould proceed but slowly after reaching the pine-barrens, the soil ofwhich is loose sand, and at every step the animals we rode sank to thefetlock, which caused them to be greatly fatigued at the close of theday. 

At night-fall, after selecting our ground adjacent to a river, wepitched our tent, and supper was prepared. This consisted of jerkedvenison (dried by a slow fire), broiled turkey, two of which we had shotupon our way, bread, and coffee. One of our party walked round ourposition as a sentinel, and was relieved every two hours; it beingnecessary to keep a vigilant look out, on account of the Indian andrunaway negro marauders, who roam through these wilds in bands, andsubsist chiefly in plundering farms and small parties. A huge fire ofresinous pine branches (which are plentiful in these solitudes, andstrew the ground in all directions, blackened with fire and age) wasblazing to keep off the wolves and catamounts, whose terrific yells, inconjunction with other beasts, prevented our sleeping. They did not, however, venture within rifle shot. The Indians, on attacking smallparties, have a practice of imitating the cry of the wolf, and thiscircumstance being known to us, tended not a little to raise oursuspicions on hearing the fearful howlings that rang through thewilderness. 

In the morning, we proceeded through barren sand-plains, skirted withdense hammocks (jungles) and forests. We were much annoyed by mosquitoesand sand-flies, which kept the whole party in discomfort from theirattacks. Dusky-looking deer-flies constantly alighted on our faces andhands, and made us jump with the severity of their bites, as did also alarge fly, of brilliant mazarine blue colour, about the size of a humblebee, the name of which I have forgotten. 

In crossing one of the numerous streams, we had to wade or swim ourhorses over, an incident occurred which rather alarmed me. I was on ahorse of that Arabian blood, build, and spirit, so common insaddle-horses in America, and a little in advance of the party, when Ireached a river that intersected our track, and which we had to cross. After allowing the animal to quench its thirst, I applied spurs andurged it into the stream; it being averse from some cause to take thewater. The stream was, however, deeper than I anticipated, and the horseimmediately began to stumble and flounder in an alarming manner, showing that the river bed was uneven and rocky. About half-way acrosswas a small island, that divided the stream, which after much difficultyhe reached; resting here about a minute, I again urged him forward, butthe animal seemed very reluctant to go. He wheeled short round, snortedloudly as if in fear, and was evidently in unusual alarm. After somecoaxing, he, however, plunged into the water, and I expected to be ableto gain the opposite shore in advance of my companions, but just as wewere half-way between the little island and the opposite bank, which wasvery steep, the horse again became restive, rearing as if dreadfullyfrightened. I had the greatest difficulty to keep the saddle, which wasa high Mexican one, covered with bear-skin, and as easy to ride in as achair. I now began to suspect the cause of his alarm. The stream was oneof those black-looking currents that flow noiselessly along, and whichin Florida always harbour the largest-sized alligators. When I firstcame to it, I remembered this, and thinking to frighten off any of theselurkers that might be in the vicinity, I had dashed precipitately intothe stream. This practice, or shouting loudly and firing a pistol intothe water, usually succeeds. I soon found out, however, that thepresence of one of the ugly creatures was the cause of the horse'strepidation, for, within six feet of us, I discerned a pair of eyes, setin huge brown excrescences, fixed intently on me and my horse, withmalicious gaze. I knew they belonged to a veteran, and dreading lest itssnout might be within two feet of my leg, for the old alligators boastenormous length of jaw, I sat tailor-wise in my saddle, and levelled myrifle at the horrid object; the reptile had, however, observed mymovements, and disappeared beneath the surface; I instantly dischargedmy piece in the direction he had taken, and certainly gave him a lesson, for the water around me was directly after tinged with blood; he wasprobably hurt severely, or he might have resented my temerity. I soonafter reached the shore in safety, where I was speedily joined by theescort, who saw nothing of the reptile in their way across, and who, being men bred amongst such scenes, and totally divested of fear, atonce took the water, although they had witnessed the encounter. 

The cayman of South America is very ferocious, and is popularly styledthe hyena of the alligator tribe. This savage creature will instantlyattack a man or a horse, and on this account the Indians of Chili, before wading a stream, take the precaution of using long poles, toascertain its presence or to drive it away. Naturalists assert that thecayman is not found in the North American rivers, and I should imaginethis to be correct, for, although engaged in many alligator hunts, Ifound from personal experience and minute inquiry that the species foundin North America is harmless if unmolested. 

After a laborious ride we arrived at Fort Andrews, where we found amilitary station of U. S. Infantry. We halted here for several days, Ihaving business requiring my attention, and ourselves and our beastsneeding to recruit our strength, before continuing our route to the Bay. The forest scenery here almost defies description. Immense cedars, andother lordly trees, rear their gigantic and lightning-scathed heads overtheir smaller and less hardy but graceful neighbours; cactuses, mimonias, and tropical shrubs and flowers, which at home are to be seenonly in conservatories or green-houses are here in profusion, "And plants, at whose name the verse feels loath, Fill the place with a monstrous undergrowth, Prickly, and pulpous, and blistering, and blue, Livid, and starred with a lurid hue, "

while innumerable forms of insect and reptile life, from the tiny yellowscorpion to the murky alligator of eighteen feet in length, give aforbidding aspect to the scene. Racoons, squirrels, wild turkeys, pelicans, vultures, quails, doves, wild deer, opossums, chickmuncks, white foxes, wild cats, wolves, --are ever and anon to be seen among thehigh palmetto brakes, and the alligators in the bayous arid swamps, "make night hideous" with their discordant bellowings and the vile odourwhich they emit. The _tout ensemble_ of the place brings to recollectionthose striking lines of Hood, "O'er all there hung the shadow of a fear, A sense of mystery the spirit daunted, And said, as plain as whisper in the ear, The place is haunted. "

During my stay at Fort Andrews, a large detachment of U. S. Troopsarrived, continuing a campaign against the recreant Indians and negroes. The appearance of the men and officers was wretched in the extreme; theyhad for weeks been beating through swamps and hammocks, thickly mattedwith palmetto bush, which had torn their undress uniforms in tatters, searching for an invisible enemy, who, thoroughly acquainted with theeverglades, defied every attempt at capture. The whole party lookedharassed, disappointed, and forlorn. General Taylor was with and hadcommand of this detachment, which was about 400 strong. As I had heardthis man vauntingly spoken of in the north, as the brave cotemporary ofScott, I felt no little curiosity to see him. His appearance surprisedme. He was a burly, unmilitary-looking man, of most forbidding aspect, and much more like a yeoman than a soldier. A sword, much out of place, dangled awkwardly by his side, and was the only badge of his professionabout him, except a black leathern cap; otherwise, he was habited as aprivate citizen. His small army encamped below the fort; and, as Ithought, in most un-general style, he superintended the erection of hisown marquee. He had with him several negroes, who were his bodyservants; and the coarse epithets he applied to them during theoperation did not prepossess me in his favour, or, I thought, reflectmuch credit on his refinement. 

At nightfall cries of distress arose from the marquee, and as Iapproached it I could distinctly hear one of the bondsmen earnestlypleading for mercy. Listening for a moment, I heard this distinguishedgeneral exclaiming vociferously, and belabouring the poor negro heavilywith a raw-hide whip; most likely venting the spleen he felt at hisnon-success against the Indians, the expedition having hitherto beenunsuccessful. The poor negro had offended his master, by some trivialact, no doubt, and in southern style he was correcting him, without muchregard, it is true, to publicity. This, in southern latitudes, is socommon, that it is thought little of; and the occurrence caused on thisoccasion only a passing remark from those present. The negro was hisown, and he had a right, it was stated, to correct him, as and when hepleased; who could dispute it? For my own part, I entertained the mostabhorrent feelings towards a man, who, without sense of shame, or decentregard for his station, thus unblushingly published his infamy amongststrangers, and this man a would-be patriot, too, and candidate for thePresidential chair, which, it will be remembered, he afterwardsobtained. I was told that flogging his negroes was a favourite pastimewith this eminently-distinguished general, and that he was by no meansliked by his officers or men. His appearance bespoke his tyrannicaldisposition; and this, coupled with incapacity, there is little doubt, conduced to make it necessary for him to relinquish his command of thearmy of the south, which he did not long after, being succeeded, Ibelieve, by General Armstead. 

As I mentioned before, the force that accompanied him was in forlorncase, reminding me strongly of Shakspere's description of Falstaff'sragged regiment. It consisted chiefly of raw, undrilled troops, quiteunused to discipline, but, perhaps, as effective as veterans in theservice in which they were employed, the adroitness of the enemy, accustomed to the interminable swamps, hammocks, and cane-brakes whichabound in this country, quite paralyzing the energies of the men, anddestroying that _esprit du corps_ without which no success can beexpected in an army. 

Several Indian sachems or chiefs accompanied the command; these werefine-looking fellows, but appeared exhausted from long marching throughthe wilderness One of these, named Powell, particularly attracted mynotice; he was a very interesting young man, of feminine aspect, andlittle resembling his stalwart companions. He had originally beencaptured, but by kind treatment had been brought over to friendly views, and was now acting as a guide. It was stated that his father was muchincensed against him, and had employed emissaries to despatch himsecretly. A few months after this campaign I heard that he was shotwhile out hunting; no doubt, at the instigation of his unnatural parent, who preferred his death to his continuing in league with white men. 

Leaving Fort Andrews, I now pushed onward to Deadman's Bay. The countrywe passed through was much the same as I have before described; thejourney took us the better part of two days. On the way we saw a herd ofwild cattle, which scoured the plain in consternation on espying ourparty; urging on our horses, we tried to bring one down, but theyoutstripped us. Some miles farther on, and near a thick hammock, about aquarter of a mile a-head, a huge black bear stood snuffing the air; weagain put spurs to our horses to try to intercept his retreat, but hewas too quick for us, and made at his utmost speed (a sort of shamblingtrot) for the coppice or jungle, which he soon entered, and disappearedfrom our sight. At nightfall, a pack of ravenous wolves, headed by alarge white one, serenaded us, and came near enough to our camp-fire toseize a small terrier belonging to one of the party. The poor animal, unused to the dangers around, had the temerity to run out and bark atthe pack--he soon after gave one agonizing yelp, and we never saw himagain. As a reprisal, three of the party fired, and brought one of thewolves to the ground; he was of great size, and, I should say, couldhave carried away a sheep, or a good sized hog (of which they are veryfond), with ease. We could not, however, skin him--he was so infestedwith fleas. In the settlements they often seize and carry off children, but they do not molest adults. 

As we proceeded, we kept a vigilant look-out for Indians, a number ofwhom, we had heard at Fort Andrews, had been driven in the direction wewere travelling. We fortunately escaped molestation, but saw in severalplaces human bones, probably the relics of a former combat between theUnited States troops, or travellers like ourselves, and Indians ornegroes. One skull I picked up had been split with a tomahawk, besideshaving a bullet-hole in it about the region of the left ear. Oursituation was one of great peril, but I had made up my mind to proceedat all hazards, despite the opposition shown by two or three of thesettlers composing my escort, who, on more than one occasion, pointedout Indian camp-grounds of only a few days' age. At one of these wefound a quantity of Indian flour or arrowroot, part of a bridle, and theoffal of a calf; but we left the former, imagining it might be poisoned, the latter was of no use, our only dog having been devoured by thewolves. Passing through a dense hammock, of a quarter of a mile inwidth, through which the pioneers of the American army had recently cuta rough road, I dismounted, to take a view of these sombre shades oneither hand. The solemn stillness around seemed to me like the shadow ofdeath--especially so, from the peril we were in through the deadly feudexisting at the time between the Indians and white men. I penetrated forfull a quarter of a mile into this fastness in a lateral direction, and, in doing so, suddenly startled two immense white birds of the adjutantspecies, which were standing in a swamp surrounded by majestic cedartrees. I could easily have brought one down with my rifle, but I thoughtit wanton cruelty to do so. They were, I should think, quite six feethigh, and beautifully white, with a yellow tinge. The head of one, which, I suppose, was the male bird, was surmounted by a golden crest. They sailed quietly away over my head, not appearing much alarmed by theintrusion. 

In these primeval shades, where, perhaps, the foot of man never beforetrod (for I looked in vain for such traces), are many beasts, birds, andreptiles, which live in perfect security; for, although the Indiandwells here, and subsists by hunting, yet the territory is so vast, andthe red men are so few in proportion, that there can be little doubtthat many places are untraversed. 

Emerging on the open sand-plain somewhat unexpectedly, I caused my partyno little alarm; they instinctively grasped their rifles, imagining theapproach of a party of hostile Indians. 

The constant dread of molestation causes the traveller here to be everon the _qui-vive_, the precaution being highly necessary, to preventsurprise. The least movement in a coppice excites apprehension, andfills the soul of both the resolute and the timorous with anticipationsof danger. Nor are these fears groundless, for the treacherous Indiancrawls stealthily to the attack, and, without a moment's warning, two orthree of a party may fall to the earth, pierced by rifle-balls, orrearing horses may throw the riders, and leave them at the mercy ofthese ruthless assassins. 

Arriving at length at the Bay in safety, I was accommodated in theofficers' quarters of a temporary fort or stockade, erected there. Thesteamer had left, so that I was compelled to remain here longer than Ihad intended, awaiting the arrival of the next boat. To beguile thetime, I went for miles into the forests, looking for game, often comingback disappointed and weary; at others rewarded by, perhaps, a racoon, or, what I valued more, a fawn or wild turkey. There was, however, plenty of sport on the river, and thousands of wild ducks, gannet, andpelicans, inhabited the little islands in the vicinity, and reared theiryoung there; some of these islands being covered with their eggs. Largenumbers of alligators infested the streams adjacent, and theirbellowings, in concert with bull-frogs and other reptiles, oftenbanished sleep for nights together, although I was pretty wellaccustomed to such annoyances. Snakes were often to be met with, although harmless if unmolested; amongst these, the moccason, hoop, andgarter snakes, of which I procured several specimens, were the mostcommon to be met with. Rattle-snakes exist in rocky districts, but I sawnone of them here. 

The steamer not arriving as I anticipated, after remaining for aconsiderable time, and getting tired of so solitary a life, I determinedto retrace my steps to Tallahassee. 

While remaining at this post, a party of mounted volunteers arrived fromGeorgia. These men were mostly sons of farmers, who had suffered fromthe unceasing attacks of the Indians on their farms, in many instancesaccompanied by the butchery of some members of their families. It wasarranged that a company of U. S. Infantry, stationed at the fort, shouldact in concert with these men, and scour the country for twenty milesround, to search for Indians, traces of whom had been seen, and who, itwas very certain, were encamped not many miles off. As I felt desirousof observing the operations of these little campaigns against so wily afoe, I intimated to a major, my intention of accompanying theexpedition. He was pleased with the proposal, and furnished me with asplendid rifle and other equipments, from the stores of the depôt. Aftera short delay, owing to the non-arrival of some waggons that wereintended to accompany the expedition, the whole force mustered in frontof the stockade enclosure, and being furnished with ten days' provisionsfor man and horse, started under command of the major aforesaid, acrossthe sand-plains, in order to reach a dense cedar and cypress swamp, tenmiles distant, where it was suspected the enemy was concealed. After atedious march through a wild country, so overgrown with saw palmetto andunderbrush, that our horses had great difficulty to get through it, wearrived at the skirts of the swamp; here a consultation took placebetween the officers present, and it was arranged that an Indian guidewhom we had with us, should go in and hold a parley with the Indians, toinduce them if possible, to surrender. The guide went into the hammock, which extended along the edge of the swamp as far as the eye couldreach, right and left. I should have mentioned, that this man, with theusual Indian acuteness, had discovered indubitable signs that the enemywas in the vicinity, long before we reached the spot. After an absenceof about an hour, during which time we refreshed ourselves, and madepreparations for an expected struggle, our guide returned, bringing withhim a bow and quiver of arrows, as proofs of his interview with thesecreted Indians. The account he gave, which was interpreted by ahalf-bred Indian who accompanied the expedition for the purpose, was, that after penetrating some distance into the fastness, he came to theencampment of the enemy, and was instantly surrounded by warriors, whoseized him, but after parleying for a considerable time, let him go, presenting him with a bow and arrows, as a symbol of their unflinchingresolve to continue the war. 

On hearing this, it was at once determined by the officer in commandthat the whole force (except a guard for the horses and waggons) shouldgo in and surprise them. The guide shook his head at this, and, pointingtowards the swamp, said, "That is the way. I have shown it to you;follow it if you will; I do not go. " It was, however, of no use todally, and orders were given for all hands to follow into the swamp. Formy own part, I wished to stay behind, but was told that such a coursewas attended with danger, as the Indians would most likely emerge fromanother part of the hammock, and endeavour to seize the horses, andransack the waggons. This decided my adopting the least of the twoevils, although I fully expected we should have a battle. Afterpenetrating for I should think upwards of two miles, sometimes up to ourknees in miry clay, and often stopped by impassable barriers of wildvines and other prehensile plants, which annoyed us greatly, and made meregret a thousand times that I had courted such dangers andinconveniences, the sound of two rifle-shots threw the whole party intoindescribable commotion. Supposing we were attacked, all hands flew asquick as thought to the trees around, where each one, peeping frombehind the trunks which were sought as a shelter against the rifle-ballsof the expected foe, waited for a few moments in great suspense, when, suddenly, a loud cheer from the party in advance, followed by severalrifle-shots, told us they had come upon the encampment. As the firingceased, I knew the Indians had fled; this seemed also the opinion of thevolunteers near me, who simultaneously left their hiding-place, andpushed forward to the scene. On arriving at the spot, I found thesoldiers around a large Indian fire, over which was suspended a boilingcauldron, filled with venison, the Indians having been, no doubt, preparing a meal when disturbed by us; by the side, and not far from thefire, was a large trough, made out of a fallen tree, in which was aquantity of arrowroot in course of preparation. This plant growsplentifully in this latitude, and is the principal fare of the Indians, their squaws superintending the management of it. The remains of a finebuck lay near, and also some moccasons, leggings, and other Indian gear. 

The enemy we had so unceremoniously disturbed had, as usual, takenflight; but we found traces of blood, and the advanced party stated thatthey had fired on two warriors, who, with a woman and two children, wereon the spot when they came up. 

As it was deemed quite useless to pursue them, from their being, nodoubt, well acquainted with the intricacies of the fastness, and, therefore, sure to evade us, we regaled ourselves on the venison, ofwhich some refused to partake, lest it should be poisoned. It wasdecided that the force should emerge from the swamp to the open plainabout a mile above the spot where we had left the waggons, by acircuitous route; this was accordingly done, but our progress was sodifficult, that the Indians had ample opportunity to fly before us, andwe saw no further traces of them. 

On reaching the waggons, we found, to our great satisfaction, that allwas safe, and as night was approaching, it was decided to encamp there, a spring of turbid water being in the vicinity A cordon of sentinels wasaccordingly placed around our resting-place, and some tents were pitchedfor a portion of the party; the remainder, wrapped in blankets, sleepingon the sand. After the whiskey had passed round, the jocular littlemajor in command proposed a song, and as one of the infantry soldierswas an adept at the art, he was invited to our marquee. Although in thevery midst of danger, for we knew not how formidable in number theIndians were, we passed a merry evening. 

Soon after this affair, the party returned to the bay, and in a day ortwo I started on my return to Tallahassee. About twenty miles fromDeadman's Bay, we overtook a fugitive negro, and as we came upon himunexpectedly, when turning the edge of a hammock, he had not time toretreat, being within rifle-range, or he would doubtless have done so. He threw up his arms, and gave a piercing shriek (an unvariable customof Indians when in danger), expecting to be instantly shot. He had, however, nothing to fear, having fallen in with friends and not foes. AsI saw he was without a rifle, I dashed forward and accosted him first. He was soon assured, by my manner of addressing him, and beggedearnestly that we would not detain or hurt him. This I at once promised, if he would inform us whether Indians were near. He said no, they hadleft that country two suns (days) ago, taking an easterly direction, andwe might proceed to Fort Andrews in safety. 

After putting several other questions to him, I inquired if the Indianswould cross our path to Tallahassee from that post. He said no, theywere far off in another direction, having gone to East Florida, eightymiles distant. The fellow was in poor case, and begged for food, sayinghe was starving. I, therefore, desired the men to supply him with somedried venison and bread, which he ate with avidity. He refused to tellme his master's name, but said there were hundreds of negroes fightingwith the Indians, six from the same plantation as himself. My companionswere at first intent upon securing him, but being averse to thatcourse, I dared them to do it; when, seeing I was fully determined onthis point, they did not insist. Pointing to the hammock, after givinghim a dram of brandy, I bid him be off, when he darted like a deer intothe thicket, and disappeared from our view, with a loud shout ofexultation. 

About ten miles further on, as we passed the edge of a dense hammock, weheard the bay of an Indian dog, and fearing the proximity of a party ofmarauders, we were instantly on the alert. The dog did not, however, come out of the wood, and we rode from the dangerous vicinity with alldispatch. Arrived again at Fort Andrews, without any further adventureworth recording, we found a party of volunteers about to proceed to FortPleasant, in the direction we were going. After recruiting my now almostexhausted strength by a refreshing sleep, I went down to theirencampment, by the river's edge. They had the day before encountered astrong party of Indians, whom they repulsed with loss. Some of the partyshowed me several bloody scalps of warriors they had killed. I could nothelp remarking the beauty of the hair, which was raven-black, and shonewith a beautiful gloss. They had several captured Indian women withthem, and half-a-dozen children; the former were absorbed in grief, andone in particular, whose young husband had been shot in the fray, andwhose scalp was one of those I have just mentioned, was quiteoverwhelmed. The children, little conscious of the misery of theirparents, swam about and dived in the river like amphitrites; they eachcarried a small bow and quiver of arrows. There is no doubt the Indiansthese volunteers had fallen in with and routed, were the identical partyreferred to by the negro we had met some forty-eight hours before. 

I had made up my mind to stay at Fort Andrews for a time, partly tofulfil an engagement with a friend whom I had arranged to meet here, andto whom I shall shortly have to refer more at length, and partly torecruit my strength, a tertian ague having seized me, which muchdebilitated my frame, and made travelling very irksome. My accommodationwas indifferent, but medical assistance, which I needed most, was notwanting, and I shall never forget the courtesy of the officers. 

I employed my time chiefly in rambling the woods, when health wouldpermit, and had a boat lent to me, with which, in company, I severaltimes penetrated the tortuous river, Esteenahatchie, to the bay, somemiles distant. At night the boats were all sunk, or they would have beenstolen or destroyed by the Indians, who hovered round and committedpetty depredations at every opportunity. Below the fort, was a ruinousmill, in a gloomy dell, through which the river wended its silentcourse. This had once been tenanted, but the inhabitants were murderedsome years before by the Indians, who afterwards (as is their almostunvarying custom), added to the atrocity by setting fire to thebuilding. 

Sitting one day, after a lengthened ramble, in solitary meditation on myposition and the surrounding scenery, I saw a fine Indian, who appearedgreatly fatigued, emerge from the adjoining hammock, and walk to theedge of the stream, and there, after glancing round him with eager eyeand air, he laid down his rifle, and stepping on to a tree whichdebouched into the stream (lying as it had been struck down by atornado), he crouched down at the end of it, and commenced lavinghimself with the water. His appearance was romantic, and there is nodoubt, from his dress, he was a warrior of some note, probably followinghis wife, one of the squaws captured by the volunteers I have beforementioned, and who were still at Fort Andrews, awaiting orders fromGeneral Taylor. I could have shot him to a certainty, had I been armed, which was not the case. Had it been so, however, I was predeterminednever, unless in self-defence, to imbrue my hands in Indian or negroblood while in the territory, neither was I disposed to betray him, forI deeply sympathized with the misfortunes of his race, and well knewthat an inexcusable spirit of aggrandizement on the part of the FederalGovernment had in the first place roused the indignation of both negroesand red men, and provoked hostilities. After performing his ablution, the Indian stalked like a deer into the recesses of the forest, I havingin the mean time, as a matter of policy, moved out of danger, for he wasno doubt animated with feelings of dire revenge, and in a very differentmood from that in which I have described myself to have been at thetime. 

During my visit to Deadman's Bay, I had become acquainted with a Scotchgentleman, who was employed on the medical staff of the U. S. Army, Ibelieve, as a supernumerary, or candidate for a commission as a surgeon. He was a most agreeable companion, of good natural parts, fluent inconversation, intelligent in remark, free from egotism, and welleducated, I believe, at Cambridge, in England. We soon became attachedto each other. He accompanied me in my rambles, and we were almostinseparable companions during my stay. He was one of those beings, infine, who seem to be sent at times to cheer the darkened highway ofexistence under gloomy circumstances; and I fondly hoped to enjoy withhim a lengthened period of virtuous intimacy, and close, unalloyedfriendship, on more propitious soil. 

But the decrees of Providence are inscrutable, and "his ways, " indeed, "past finding out. " This was certainly strikingly exemplified by thecatastrophe I am about to relate, which deprived me for ever of myfriend. 

When at the bay, he expressed a wish to visit St. Marks, Tallahassee, and Apalachicola, and stated his intention, as soon as his engagementspermitted, to proceed thither by steamer, if opportunity offered--orfailing this, to go overland, availing himself of some escort whichmight be proceeding in that direction. As I felt desirous to have hiscompany, on my route to South Carolina, I arranged to halt at FortAndrews, as before stated, that he should join me there in a week, andthen proceed in company with me to Fort Pleasant, forty miles distant, and thence to Tallahassee. 

The time having now come at which I was expecting his arrival, I was onemorning anxiously looking out through the long vista of pine trees andbarrens, when I descried in the distance two horsemen approaching attheir greatest speed; I at first imagined them to be, as they indeedproved, an advanced party of my friend's escort--but, on their comingup, I could see, from the agitation they were in, and the foaming stateof their horses, which were quite white and in a dreadfully exhaustedstate, that something alarming had happened. 

The tale was soon told:--It appeared, that about midway between the twosettlements, or stations, a party of Indians in ambush had fired uponthe party, and my friend had been treacherously murdered. I was muchaffected by this intelligence, and, after some consultation with agentleman there, determined to get up a pretty strong party, and proceedto the scene of the murder, to collect the remains of my poor friend, whose bones would otherwise be left, as I had seen others in thoseregions, to bleach on the sand hills. We soon started, the partyconsisting of fourteen men, well armed with rifles, bowie knives, andpistols, accompanied by a waggon, drawn by four stout mules and drivenby a negro, to convey back the remains. The expedition was attended withno little danger, from the proximity of a newly-discovered party ofIndians, who were committing dreadful ravages in the district--butwhether in large or small force, was uncertain; they were, probably, theparty I have before adverted to, lingering about the vicinity. 

After a melancholy journey, during which we were so absorbed by ourfeelings, that little was said; we reached the fatal spot, it beingpointed but by one of the party who formed my friend's escort. ' It wason the edge of a dense hammock, by the skirts of which lay some enormoustrees, which had been levelled by a recent tornado. From behind thisbarricade the Indians had unexpectedly fired on the party--the attackwas so sudden, that they appeared to have been quite taken by surprise. This was the more extraordinary, as the whole neighbourhood was of adescription likely to be chosen by the red men for an ambuscade. Theparty attacked must have been in great trepidation, for, from what Icould glean, the survivors put spurs to their horses' flanks, andgalloped off to Fort Andrews, leaving my poor friend entirely at themercy of the enemy. The survivor, who accompanied us, stated, that theywere riding in Indian file, as is customary there; that poor H---- wasin front of him; and that, directly the Indians gave their fire, he sawhim fall backwards from his horse, at the same time raising his lefthand to his head. He could tell no more, the horse he was on havingwheeled round suddenly, and been urged on in retreat by its rider, whowas in the greatest imaginable terror. Had the party halted, andreturned the fire, for they were well armed, in all probability some ofthe marauders would have been laid low, or, if the Indians were but few, they might at least have rescued my poor friend. 

We found footmarks of Indians, which we traced; by these it appearedthat they were in small force, and that when H---- fell from his horsehe recovered his feet, and ran from the enemy, in the direction of theplain, for about two hundred yards--here it was evident he had beenovertaken, and his skull cloven with a tomahawk from behind. We soondiscovered his remains in the sand, denuded of every particle of fleshand muscle by the vultures and the ravenous wolves. We collected thebones with reverential care, and placed them in the waggon, for transitto Fort Andrews. 

On the bones of the little finger of the left hand was an emerald ring, which I had often seen the murdered man wear, and which, being coveredwith blood and sand at the time of the catastrophe, no doubt escaped theattention of the villians who perpetrated the atrocious act. The leftjaw was fractured by a rifle-bullet, which knocked him off his horsebackwards, as described by one of the survivors. 

In the pines opposite the place of ambush, we found several ballsimbedded, and one had lodged in the pummel of the saddle of the man whowas present, and who formed one of our party. It appeared probable thatthere were not more than four or five Indians engaged in the attack; aforce which might easily have been repelled and annihilated withordinary courage, but formidable enough to men wanting the presence ofmind which is necessary under such circumstances. 

After a fatiguing journey, for which I was at the time almost totallyunfitted by ill-health, our party reached Fort Andrews, with the mangledremains of the victim. A short time afterwards these were committed tothe sand, a military salute being fired over the grave by some soldiersat the garrison. On an elevated slab of wood, to the north of FortAndrews, may be seen a zinc plate, erected by me to the memory of myfriend, with his name, the date of his death, and an epitome of thecircumstances attending it. This memento of regard has, in allprobability, escaped the cupidity of the Indians, for I took theprecaution to have it placed as much out of sight as possible, and theplace of burial was off the beaten track. 

Thus perished miserably, one whose generous openness and manly virtuesrendered him dear to all who had the privilege of his acquaintance. Hewas a native of somewhere near Arbroath in Scotland, but his accent didnot betray his nativity. 

In traversing the sandy deserts of West Florida, I had frequentopportunities of tracing the devastating effects of those awfulvisitations in tropical climates--hurricanes, or tornadoes; and, notwithstanding I had the good fortune to escape the danger of beingexposed to one, I more than once prepared for the worst. One of thesewas accompanied with phenomena so unusual and striking to a native ofEurope, that I must not omit some notice of it, if for no other purposethan to convey to the mind of the reader one of the many unpleasant butwonderful accompaniments of a residence in these latitudes, sopoetically, and indeed so truthfully, apostrophized as "the sunnysouth. "

It was while on a journey (accompanied by two yeomen from East Florida, who were proceeding to join an expedition against the Indians to defendtheir hearths, and by the friend whose melancholy loss I have advertedto) from Deadman's Bay towards Tallahassee, that the occurrence I amabout to mention took place It was in the height of summer, and forseveral days Fahrenheit's barometer had ranged from 84 to 90 degrees, the temperature being occasionally even higher, by some degrees, thanthis. We started soon after eight in the morning, and had ridden all dayunder a scorching sun, from the effects of which we were butill-defended by our palm-leaf hats, for our heads were achingintensely--my own being, in common parlance, "ready to split, " not aninapt simile, by the way, as I often experienced in the south. Towardsevening, the sultriness increased to a great degree, and respirationbecame painful, from the closeness of the atmosphere. A suspicious lullsoon after succeeded, and we momentarily expected the storm to overtakeus. It was not, however, one that was to be relieved by an ordinarydischarge of thunder, lightning, and rain--deeper causes being evidentlyat work. The denseness of the air was accompanied by a semi-darkness, similar to that which prevails during an eclipse of the sun, whichluminary, on the occasion I refer to, after all day emitting a luridglare, was so shrouded in vapour as to be scarcely discernible, even inoutline--while a subterranean noise added to the terrors of oursituation, which strongly called to mind the accounts we read ofearthquakes and similar phenomena. 

We moved slowly on, as people naturally would who were about to beoverwhelmed in a calamity that threatened their annihilation, while anindefinable sensation of sleepiness and inertia seized the whole of theparty. Vultures and other birds of prey screamed dismally, as theyhovered round our heads in the greatest excitement, arising either fromterror or the anticipation of a rich repast, we could not tell which. These voracious creatures, with great audacity, often descended towithin a few feet of the heads of our horses, which seemedterror-stricken at their near approach. I took aim at one of the largestof them with my rifle, and it fell a little to my left, with an impetusI can only compare to the fall of a human being. Directly it touched theground, it vomited carrion and died. It was many feet in breadth fromtip to tip of wing, but we were too perturbed to stop and measure it. When I discharged the rifle, the report was unusually faint, owing tothe state of the air; so much so, that my companions, who were not fiftyyards behind, scarcely heard it. The wild animals in the jungle whichskirted the road, and which, in general, skulk in silence and secresy intheir haunts, rent the air with their howlings. The very order of natureseemed about to be reversed, while the long streamers of grey mossswayed backwards and forwards mournfully from the trees, adding to thesolemnity of the scene. As the party slowly wended its way through thewilderness, each individual looked round with suspicion, exchangingfurtive glances, or now and then uttering some exclamation ofalarm--their manner and bearing indicating minds ill at ease. 

This dismal state of things lasted nearly an hour, after which timenature seemed to recover herself by a sudden throe, for a brisk breeze, which was highly refreshing to our senses, and which was attended by theloud hollow subterranean sound I have before referred to, unexpectedlysprang up, and swept off, as if by magic, the inertia of nature. Whatmade the phenomenon more extraordinary, was the total absence of thunderor lightning. My companions shouted for joy when the hollow moan of theembryo tempest was heard to move off to the eastward (for, as theyinformed me, it told of deliverance from peril); I felt a sensation ofdelight I cannot describe, and heartily responded to the noisydemonstration of satisfaction raised by my companions. 

Our horses, apparently participating in our delight, pricked up theirears, and snorted, fairly prancing with pleasure, tired and jaded asthey were after thirty miles' travel through sand, into which they sankat every step fetlock deep, often groaning pitifully. 

I noticed that, during the impending storm, they hung down their headsin a listless manner, and sighed heavily, a circumstance that to ourminds presaged calamity, and which, I may add, was altogether unlike theusual indication of fatigue in animals which have travelled a greatdistance. Had the tornado burst upon us, instead of passing off as itdid, it is very doubtful whether the hand that writes this would nothave been mingled with its native dust, in the arid sands of Florida;for, as we rode on, we saw gigantic pine, cedar, and hiccory trees, torn up by the roots, and scattered over the surrounding country, byby-gone hurricanes, many of them hundreds of yards from the spot thatnurtured their roots--while the gnarled branches lying across our track, scorched black-with the lightning, or from long exposure to a burningsun, impeded our advance, and made the journey anything but pleasant. 

The occurrence I have mentioned formed a topic of conversation for somemiles as we journeyed to our destination; and one of my companionsstated, that a few months before, when in the neighbourhood ofPensacola, a hurricane came on unexpectedly, and caused greatdevastation, unroofing the houses, tearing up trees, and filling the airwith branches and fragments of property. He happily escaped, althoughhis little estate, situated at Mardyke Enclosure, some short distancefrom the town, was greatly injured, and some six or eight people werecrushed to death by the falling trees and ruins of houses. 

CHAPTER VI. 

 "Before us visions come Of slave-ships on Virginia's coast, Of mothers in their childless home, Like Rachel, sorrowing o'er the lost; The slave-gang scourged upon its way. The bloodhound and his human prey. "--WHITTIER. 

Florida produces oranges, peaches, plums, a species of cocoa-nut, andmusk and water-melons in abundance. The more open portions of thecountry are dotted over with clumps of gnarled pines, of a very resinousnature, white and red oak, hiccory, cedar, and cypress, and is ingeneral scantily clad with thin grass, fit only for deer to browse upon. The dreary sameness of the interior of this desolate country isdistressing to the traveller; and the journey from one settlement toanother, through pine-forests, seems almost interminable. 

One morning, a short time prior to my intended departure forTallahassee, I was roused before daybreak by a rifle-shot, which wasinstantly followed by the cry of "Guard, turn out!" and much hubbub. Asthis was no unusual occurrence, from the constant apprehension we werein of an attack by the Indians on the stockade, and as it had severaltimes occurred before during my stay, I resolved to lie and listenawhile before I rose. The earnest conversation and the noise of horsessoon after satisfied me it was only a friendly arrival. I, however, feltanxious to obtain intelligence as to the success of a treaty thenpending between the United States Government and the Indians; thefavourable termination of which would not only render my return toTallahassee more safe, but put a stop, perhaps for ever, to thoseconstant scenes of blood and depredation that were by this time becomequite sickening to me. This feeling was much enhanced at the time by theexpress between Fort Andrews and Deadman's Bay, being shot by a party ofthe common enemy. The body of this poor fellow was never found, buttraces of blood were to be seen near the spot where he had beenattacked; and the saddle and bridle of his horse were found cut into athousand pieces; the probability being that he was wounded and takenprisoner, doubtless to be tortured to death, a practice common with allIndian tribes in time of war. 

On my proceeding to a house used as officers' quarters, outside thestockade, I found the stir had been caused by the arrival of twocompanies of light-horse soldiers from St. Marks, escorting severalcouples of bloodhounds, to aid the army, operating in that part ofFlorida, to exterminate the Indians. These dogs were very ferocious, and, on approaching the leashmen, who had them in charge, they opened infull yell, and attempted to break loose. The dogs had just arrived fromCuba with their keepers, their importation having been caused by thesupposition, that, like the Maroons in Jamaica, who, for nearly thirtyyears, defied the colonists there, the Indians would be terrified intosubmission. This, however, turned out to be erroneous; for, on theirfirst trial, the Indians killed several, and the scheme was veryproperly abandoned a short time after. 

Such barbarous means were very unjustifiable, although many (to use thelanguage of the Earl of Chatham, when deprecating a similar course inthe English House of Lords) considered that every means that God andnature had placed in their hands, were allowable in the endeavour tobring to a close a war that had cost the Federal Government an immenseamount of blood and treasure. I am of opinion, however, from what Iafterwards heard, that the step was not an altogether popular one in theeastern and northern states, although it certainly was so in thesouthern; it being argued in the public prints there, that as dogs hadbeen used in hunting down fugitive negroes from time immemorial, themere fact of bloodhounds being used instead of mastiffs was a peccadillounworthy of name. 

The tobacco plant, though growing in many parts of Floridaspontaneously, like the broad-leafed dock in England, is oftencultivated in garden-ground for domestic use, some of the finer kindsbeing as aromatic as those of Cuba. The soil in such places is rich;indeed, the plant will not thrive in many parts where this is not thecase. The method of propagation, generally followed by the largegrowers, is that recommended by Loudon, in his incomparable_Encyclopedia of Agriculture, _ and is as follows:--The soil selected isin general loamy and deep; this is well broken up before planting, andfrequently stirred to free it from the rich growth of weeds that, inFlorida in particular, choke the growth of all plants if neglected. Theseeds being small, they are lightly covered with earth, and then thesurface is pressed down with a flat instrument used for the purpose. Intwo months after, the seedlings are ready to transplant, and are placedin drills, three feet apart every way. These are frequently watered, ifthere happens to be but little rain, which, in that arid climate, isoften the case for weeks together, and the plants regularly lookedover, to destroy a species of worm winch, if not removed, plays greathavoc with the young buds. When four inches high, the plants are mouldedup like potatoes in England; when they have six or seven leaves, and arejust putting out a stalk, the top is nipped off, to make the leavesstronger and more robust. After this, the buds, which show themselves atthe joints of the leaves, are plucked, and then the plants are dailyexamined, to destroy a caterpillar, of a singular form and grey incolour, which makes its appearance at this stage, and is verydestructive to narcotic plants. When fit for cutting, which is known bythe brittleness of the leaves, the plants are cut close to the ground, and allowed to lie some time. They are then put in farm-houses, in thechimney-corner, to dry; or, if the crop is extensive, the plants arehung upon lines in a drying-house, so managed that they will not toucheach other. In this state, they are left to sweat and dry. When thistakes place, the leaves are stripped off and tied in bundles; these areput in heaps, and covered with a sort of matting, made from thecotton-fibre or seaweed, to engender a certain heat to ripen the aroma, care being taken lest a fermentation should occur, which injures thevalue of the article; to avoid which the bundles are exposed and spreadabout now and then in the open air. This operation is calledventilating by the planters, and is continued until there is no apparentheat in the heaps. The plant is quite ornamental, and its blossoms forma pleasing feature in a garden of exotic productions. 

After a brief stay at Fort Andrews, subsequent to the last sad officesfor my deceased friend, I left that spot on horseback for Tallahassee, in company with four settlers. We soon reached the more populateddistricts, without being molested by the Indians. Here they hadcommitted sad devastations; we saw many farms without occupants, theholders having been either murdered by midnight assassins, or havingfled in alarm. Adjoining these habitations, we found line peachorchards, teeming with fruit of the richest description, which lay inbushels on the ground, and with which we regaled ourselves. Enclosedmaize fields overgrown with brambles, and cotton fields with the ginsand apparatus for packing the produce in bales for the market, presentedto the eye the very picture of desolation. 

Owing to cross roads we were at one time completely at fault, and therebeing no house in sight, I volunteered to ride off to the right andendeavour to obtain the information we were in need of. After ridingabout half-a-mile, I heard voices through a road-side coppice, which Itook to be those of field-hands at work; going farther on I dismounted, and climbing the zigzag rail fence approached a negro at work in thefield. I inquired if he could put me on the road to Tallahassee; heappeared much frightened at the intrusion, but stated he did not know, but his mas'r did, at the same time pointing to the plantation-house, situate the greater part of a mile distant; being averse to going there, for fear of impudent interrogation, I offered him money to go with me tothe point where I had left my companions, and show us the way to thenext house; he did not even know what it was I offered him, and inapparent amazement inquired what that was for; I explained, buy tobacco, buy whiskey; he appeared totally ignorant of its use, and I have nodoubt he had never had money in his possession, or learned its use. Still, he refused to leave the field, a wise precaution, as I afterwardsfound, both for himself and me. The negro being resolute, there was nowno alternative but to go to the house, on arriving at which, I met withsuch a reception as I had feared and anticipated. Three fierce dogs ofthe mastiff breed, regularly trained to hunting fugitive negroes, rushedout upon me. I had only a small riding whip with me, having left myfire-arms with a friend at Fort Andrews, and much dreaded laceration. Their noise soon brought out a ferocious, lank-visaged-looking man, about forty years of age, who immediately called off the dogs; butbefore I had time to make the inquiry that brought me there, he began inabout the following strain, "What dye yer waunt up yar, stranger? Arter no good, I guess; you'dbetter put it 'bout straight. I see'd yer torking to the handsyonder--none o' yer 'mancipator doctrines yar. "

The fellow's address "struck me all of a heap, " as he would himself havesaid, had he been in my situation; he spoke so fast, that I could notedge in a word; at last I stated the cause of my intrusion, but he wouldnot believe a word, ordered me to quit the plantation or he would setthe dogs on me, and was getting into such an ungovernable rage, that Ithought it would be wise to follow his advice. So I slowly retreated tothe yard entrance by which I had come in. Returning to my companions atthe cross-roads, I found that, in my absence, a passer-by had given themthe wished-for information, and we pushed on to a house of call, a fewmiles distant. 

As the ride was a long one, we halted at this house for refreshment, and, after baiting our horses, regaled ourselves upon some choice hamand eggs. At the table, three little negroes, one girl and two boys, under fourteen years of age, served as waiters. Their clothing wassupplied by nature, being solely the primitive habiliments worn in Edenbefore the fall. This is quite customary in the south, where the rulesof decency are commonly set at defiance, as if the curse of Adam'stransgression applied not in this respect to the African race. Thelittle creatures did not seem to be in the least aware of their degradedstate; they were as agile as fawns, and their tact in administering tothe wants of the company was quite remarkable. 

Just as we were about to proceed on our journey, a party of somehalf-a-dozen planters or overseers of neighbouring estates, mounted onfine mules, who had been searching for fugitive field-hands, rode up. Icould see they were greatly excited, and one of them had a negro lassoedby the neck, one end of the rope being fastened to his high Spanishsaddle. On coming up to the entrance gate, the one most in advancedismounted to open it; the mule, eager, perhaps, to get to a crib, or, what is more likely, to evade a brutal kick or blow, trotted through;this did not please its owner, who bellowed loudly to it to stop. Themule, however, still kept on, when the ruffian, in demoniac anger, drewfrom his belt a long bowie knife, and darting after the animal, hurledit at him with all his force. The blade of the weapon, which was six orseven inches long, entered and stuck fast in the abdomen of the agonizedcreature, which, for about twenty yards, ran on furiously, with themurderous knife in its vitals. It then fell-with a deep groan, while thefiend who had perpetrated this wanton act of barbarity and hiscompanions watched its fall, and loudly exulted in it. I noticed thatthere was a deep scowl of hatred on the countenance of the negroprisoner as this drama was being enacted, and when the knife struck thepoor mule he cried out, "Oh, mas'r, mas'r!" Societies for thesuppression of cruelty to animals, are, as might be supposed, unknown insuch remote situations, nor do they exist in any of the slave States andterritories of America; so that redress in such a case was out of thequestion. I therefore consoled myself that the outrage had brought itsown punishment in the loss of the mule, which was at least worth fromeighty to one hundred dollars. 

Passing onwards, we reached Tallahassee by rather a circuitous route, _viá_ Mount Pleasant. Although in an indifferent state of health, fromexposure to the poisonous miasma of the country, I, on the whole, feltpleased with my journey, now that its dangers were over, and grateful tothe great Dispenser of all good, who had safely conducted me throughthem. At Tallahassee I saw in the streets, in charge of aruffianly-looking fellow, two negroes, with heavy iron collars roundtheir necks. These were captured run-aways; the collars, which musthave weighed seven or ten pounds, had spikes projecting on either side. One of the poor creatures had hold of the spikes as he walked along toease the load that pressed painfully on his shoulders. 

General Murat resided at the time in this neighbourhood; he is thebrother of Jehoiachin, ex-king of Naples, and owns a large plantation, and, I was told, upwards of two hundred negroes, who were described asbeing humanely treated by him. This, however, is a very indefinite term, where all slave-owners profess to do the same, though the poor wretchesover whom by law they impiously assume God's heritage, in ninety casesout of every hundred, are scantily clothed, worse fed than horses ormules, and worked to the utmost extent of human endurance, the humanitybeing, in most cases, left to the tender mercies of a brutal overseer, who exacts all he can. If the poor, tattered, squalid-looking beings Isaw in Tallahassee be a fair specimen of the "humane treatment" I havereferred to, heaven help them. 

General Murat, some years ago, married an American lady, who delightedin being called the "princess, " a little piece of vanity quite inkeeping with the aristocratical prejudices of American females in thesouth, who are devoted worshippers of lordly institutions and usages. Idid not see the general myself, but was told he was often to be metlounging about the bars of the principal hotels (being quiteAmericanized in this respect). He was described as a very garrulous oldgentleman, extremely fond of recounting his adventures, particularly hisescape when the allied troops entered Paris, about the year ofBonaparte's subjugation. 

After remaining a few days in Tallahassee, I took the conveyance toMacon in Georgia, intending to pursue my route overland to Charleston inSouth Carolina. In the diligence (a clumsy apology for a coach) fromTallahassee to Macon, were several loquacious passengers. One of theseamused and disgusted us by turns; for, after giving an epitome of hiscareer, which was a chequered one, he related an incident that hadrecently occurred on a plantation he had been visiting, and, as itpresents a novel feature in the asserted rights of slave-holders--howprofane, I will not stop to inquire--I think it worth recording. After arecital of a drunken debauch, in which he had taken a part, described byhim as a frolic, and which had been kept up for several days, his host, he said, anxious to show the high sense he entertained of the honour ofthe visit by making almost any sacrifice (this was said with greatconceit), proposed to put a negro up with an apple on his head, inimitation of the ordeal imposed on William Tell, the Swiss patriot, declaring that he who divided the apple, or perforated it with arifle-ball, should own the slave. This proposal, the gentleman veryfacetiously observed, the party jumped at, expecting some good sport;but added, "The fellow spoilt it, for he refused to stand still, although we 'used up' a cowhide over him for his obstinacy. " Thefrivolous manner in which this intended outrage was related, filled meand my fellow-passengers with disgust. I thought it was not safe toremark on the proceeding, for I could see he was a very strenuousupholder of that disgraceful system of oppression, which stigmatizes anddegrades the Americans as a people, and will continue to do so, until itis utterly abrogated, and their characters retrieved. 

This would-be patrician was a pedantic, swaggering bully, who, it wasevident, entertained high notions of his importance, and owned, perhaps, large possessions, --in a word, he was an American aristocrat, and thedescription I have given is a fair one of his class in the south. Pointing to a hill, as we entered a little settlement on our way toMacon, he exclaimed, "See there, gentlemen, twenty years ago I toiled upthat hill without a cent in my wallet (purse), but now" he continued, with the air of a potentate, "my niggers are the sleekest in ourcountry. In those days, " he went on, "glass inkstands stood on thedesks of the bank I now am chief proprietor of; we have nothing but goldones now. " The fellow's bombast lowered him in the esteem of thepassengers, who seemed indisposed to listen to him, and the latter partof the journey he said little, being in fact regularly sent to Coventryby us all. He afterwards amused himself much to our annoyance bywhistling airs and singing snatches of songs, which caused one of thepassengers, a lady, to leave the diligence at the next change of horses. He was quite an adept at whistling the air of "Yankee doodle. " This wantof deference to the sex, which I must say is an exception to the generalbehaviour of men there and in other parts of the Union I visited, didnot fail to call forth animadversion; the remarks at one time being sopointed, that I began to feel uneasy lest the pugnacious spirit might bearoused in him, which leads so often in the south to serious encounters. 

Our conveyance, which more resembled a waggon than, a stage-coach, having by this time stopped at a large hotel at Macon, I alighted withmuch pleasure, for the roughness of the road, the disagreeable loquacityof the passenger I have described, and the recklessness of the driver, made the journey excessively unpleasant. 

The negro population in Georgia is very numerous, and their constantattempts to escape to the everglades in Florida, make unceasingvigilance on the part of their owners necessary for the safety of theirproperty. In many instances where suspicion exists, they are neverallowed on any pretence, to leave the estate or residence of the owner. 

At the Greensborough Railway Terminus, I noticed two negroes on theirway to Charleston. Before being allowed to take their seat in an opencarriage in the rear of the train, the clerk at the station stepped upto them, and with an air of great effrontery demanded to see theirpasses; these were instantly shown with an alacrity that plainlyindicated fear; they were then shut in a box in the rear of the train, in which I could see no sitting accommodation. The way in which thesemen were treated presented nothing new, for I had invariably noticedthat coloured people in the south, whether bond or free, were spoken towith supercilious haughtiness, which I never once saw them openlyresent. 

On arriving at the next station a trader got into the carriage. He hadwith him two negro men and a boy; these were secured to each other byhand-cuffs and a slight negro chain. 

For the last forty miles of my journey, I had a very pleasant companionin a gentleman from the state of Alabama. He was a most agreeable andintelligent young fellow, but invalided like myself through thepoisonous miasma of the south. I entered freely into conversation withhim on general matters, in the course of which I introduced slavery inseveral of its bearings. I soon discovered by his bias, that he wasdecidedly in favour of "things as they are. "

Being anxious to obtain some information as to the observance of thenuptial tie amongst slaves, I touched upon that subject, when he told methe ceremony was mostly a burlesque, and that unions were in general buttemporary, although he had known some very devoted couples. But heproceeded to state that there was much room for reform in this respect. "I will relate to you an instance, " said he, "of the manner in whichthis, as we white people consider it, solemn compact, is entered intoamongst field-hands. When a couple wish to live together as man andwife, the male nigger mentions it to the overseer, and if there are noimpediments, they have a cabin assigned to them. " He described a sceneof this kind, which I will endeavour to give verbatim. He said itoccurred on his father's estate, some years before, and that he wasstanding by at the time, "although, " he continued, "'tis done the samenow in most instances. " A negro approached where the overseer wasstanding, apparently, by his sidling manner, about to ask some favour, when the following colloquy ensued. 

_Overseer_. --Well, you black rascal, what do you stand grinning therefor?

_Negro_. --Please, mas'r, want Lucy for wife. 

_Overseer_. --Wife, you scoundrel, what do you want a wife for; be offwith you, and mind your horses. (He was employed as a teamster on theestate. )

_Negro_. --Oh, mas'r, I loves Lucy. 

_Overseer_. --And she loves you, I suppose. A fine taste she must have, indeed. Where are you going to live?

_Negro_--Got room in No. 2 cabin, if mas'r please let 'um. 

_Overseer_. --Well, now listen; go along, and take her, but, you lazydog, if you get into any scrapes, and don't work like live coals, I'llsend her to the other estate (which was situated forty miles distant), and flay you alive into the bargain. 

The poor fellow, after thanking the overseer (not for his politeness, certainly), darted off to communicate the joyful intelligence to hisaffianced, making the welkin ring with his shouts. The gentleman whodescribed this scene said that it was always the custom on his father'sestate to give a gallon or two of whiskey for the attendantmerry-making. 

After numerous stoppages, the train at length reached Charleston. Thejourney from Greensborough had been a tedious one; besides the annoyanceof slow travelling, through the inefficient state of the line, which wasso defective that the carriages frequently left the rails, the noisomeeffluvia arising from the swamps we had to pass through, which harbourinnumerable alligators and other reptiles, had the most debilitatingeffect on the frame, which was increased by the extreme sultriness ofthe weather After leaving my ticket at the terminus, I disposed of mybaggage by hiring a negro to carry it to my boarding-house, and slowlywended my way into the city. A spacious public square at the end ofKing-street, through which I had to pass to my _table d'hote_, presentedan animated view, the citizens being assembled to celebrate theanniversary of the Independence conferred by Washington and hiscompatriots by the solemn declaration of the 4th July, 1776. Longtables, under gay awnings, to shield the company from the burning raysof the sun, which at the time were intense, groaned with every luxurythe climate afforded; but the banquet was not furnished by this alone, for Cuba and some of the neighbouring islands, it was stated, had beenransacked for delicacies. Crowds of elegantly-dressed ladies (in generalof very sallow look and languid air) and spirit-like children, withswarthy-looking men, many of whose visages bore evident traces ofexposure to the ill effects of the climate and of dissipation, crowdedthe festive board. The negro attendants in dozens moved about withautomatic order, as is characteristic of all the race on such occasions, for the negro is a "model waiter" at a banquet. Their snowy costumescontrasting strongly with their black visages and the jovial scenearound. The merry peals of laughter, as some unlucky wight upset a dish, or scattered the sauce in everybody's face within reach, indicatedlightness of heart, and merriment and conviviality seemed the order ofthe day. 

The imposing scene before me, after a long absence from social meetingsin civilized life, was very cheering, and, had it not been for theinertia I felt at the time, arising from a fatiguing journey and thetertian ague, I should have felt disposed to participate in the day'senjoyment. Other considerations might, however, have prevented this: Iwas a stranger to all around, and knew that I should be either subjectedto impertinent interrogations, or become the object of invidiousremark--this, in my debilitated state of health, I felt anxious toavoid, as calculated to impede my restoration. My joining the assembledparty might also have involved the chance of surveillance during mystay, which, before my departure for Europe, I intended should be ratherprotracted. I may have been mistaken in this view, but, from thecharacter I had heard of the place, I felt justified in giving way tothe suspicion. 

I was beguiled into the erroneous idea that a sense of happiness andsecurity reigned in the assembled multitude, a notion quite fallacious, from attendant circumstances, as I shall directly explain. Troops werestationed at a guard-house in the vicinity, and the sentinels paced infront of the building, as if in preparation for, or in expectation of, afoe, affording a great contrast to the apparent security of theinhabitants assembled in the square. Before reaching Charleston, I hadbeen apprised of the state of jeopardy the citizens were in from thepossibility of a recurrence of those scenes of anarchy enacted at theinsurrection of the slaves some time before--scenes which had filledevery heart with dismay, and spread ruin and desolation on every side. From what I could glean of that fearful drama, the slaves in thesurrounding districts, on a concerted signal from their confederates inCharleston, made a descent upon the city, and, rendered furious by longoppression, proceeded to fire it and massacre the inhabitants. Nolanguage can convey an accurate idea of the consternation of the whiteinhabitants, as it was described to me. The tocsin was sounded, thecitizens assembled, armed _cap-a-pié_, and after much hard fighting, the rebellion was crushed, and large numbers of the insurgents wereslain or arrested. Then came the bloody hand of what was impiouslytermed retributive justice. A court, or sort of drum-head court-martial, not worthy to be called a trial, condemned numbers of the slaves todeath, and they were led out instantly to execution. My informant toldme that many a brave, noble-hearted fellow was sacrificed, who, underhappier circumstances, though in a cause not half so righteous, wouldhave been extolled as a hero, and bowed down with honours. Many a humblehearth was made desolate, and, in the language quoted by my informant, "as in the days of the curse that descended on the people of theobdurate Pharaoh, every house mourned its dead. " Still, there was astrong lurking suspicion that the _emeute_ of the negroes had only beentemporarily suppressed, and awful forebodings of fire and of bloodspread a gloom on the minds of all. This was the version given to me bya friend, of what he described as the most fearful rising amongst thenegroes ever before known in the southern states of America. 

As I passed up the long range of tables, the health of the President ofthe Republic was responded to by the company. The cheers were deafening, and, what most surprised me was, that the negro waiters joinedheartily, I may say frantically, in it, and danced about like madcreatures, waving their napkins, and shouting with energy. Some of theelder ones, I noticed, looked mournfully on, and were evidently not in agay humour, seeming a prey to bitter reflections. Notwithstanding thecurse of slavery, which, like a poisonous upas, taints the very air theybreathe with the murdered remains of its victims, the white citizens ofthe south are extremely sensitive of their civil and political rights, and seem to regard the palladium of independence secured by theirprogenitors as an especial benefit conferred by the Deity for their goodin particular. Actuated by this mock patriotism (for it is nothingless), the citizens of the south omit no opportunity of demonstratingthe blessings they so undeservedly inherit, and which, if I am notmistaken, will, ere many years elapse, be wrested from them, amidst theterrible thunders of an oppressed and patient people, whose powers ofendurance are indeed surprising. 

Leaving the square, I passed up King-street, at the top of which was myintended boarding-house. The shops in this fashionable resort are fittedout in good style, and the goods are of the best description. Aftersunset the streets are often lined with carriages. The city lies flat, like the surrounding country, and, owing to this, is insalubrious;stagnant water collects in the cellars of the houses, and engenders apoisonous vapour, which is a fertile source of those destructiveepidemics, that, combined with other causes, are annually decimating thewhite population of the south of the American continent in all parts. 

At the top of King-street, facing you as you advance, is a largeProtestant episcopal church. I went there to worship on the followingSunday, but was obliged to leave the building, there being, it wasstated by the apparitor, no accommodation for strangers, a piece ofilliberality that I considered very much in keeping with theslave-holding opinions of the worshippers who attend it. This want ofpoliteness I was not, however, surprised at, for it is notorious, as hasbeen before observed by an able writer, that, excepting the Church ofRome, "the members of the unestablished Church of England--theProtestant Episcopalian, are the most bigotted, sectarian, andilliberal, in the United States of America. Being fully persuaded, " tofollow the same writer, "that prelatical ordination and the three ordersare indispensable to their profession, they are, like too many of theirfellow professors in the mother country, deeply dyed with Laudeanprinciples, or that love of formula in religion and grasping for powerwhich has so conspicuously shown itself among the Oxford tractarians, and which, it is to be feared, is gradually undermining Protestantconformity, by gnawing at its very heart, in the colleges of GreatBritain. " Vital piety, or that deep sense of religious duty that impelsmen to avoid the devious paths of sin, and to live "near to God, " is, Iam inclined to believe (and I regret it, as a painful truth), by nomeans common in America. There are, however, many pastors who faithfullywarn their flocks of the dangers of the world, and who strenuouslyadvise their hearers to take warning lest they be over-captivated withthe "Song of the Syrens. " These, however, I must say, are chiefly in thefree states, for I cannot regard southern ministers in any other lightthan pharisaical, while they continue openly (as is their constantpractice) to support from their pulpits the institution that is the mainstay of the southern states; I mean slavery. In my intercourse withserious individuals with whom I came in contact during my stay on thecontinent of America, the doctrines of Dr. Pusey and his confederateswere often referred to; and although I believe "the Association forrestoring the ancient powers of the Clergy, and the primary rites andusages of the Church, " does not acknowledge the Protestant Episcopaliansin America (owing, perhaps, chiefly to the invidious position thelatter stand in with the state, and the little chance of their viewsbeing universally embraced by them, but partially, no doubt, to theevangelical principles of most of the ministers officiating in thatChurch), yet the subject has excited much interest there, and the Romishpropensities of many pastors plainly indicate that inherent love ofpower that invariably, and, it may be said, necessarily, developesitself in hierarchical institutions--a propensity that ought to beclosely watched by Protestant lay congregations, as being not onlyinnovating and dangerous in its tendency, but calculated to foster thatsuperstition which is at once the fundamental principle of the faith ofthe city of the seven hills, and the power of that triple-crownedmonster, Popery. 

I afterwards went into a large Independent chapel in another part of thetown, where I was more courteously treated. Here was a very eloquent andnoted preacher, a Dr. Groyard, from Mobile. He was delivering a veryeloquent harangue, interspersed with touches of pro-slavery, sentimentalism and rhetorical flourish, the former especially directed tothe negroes in the gallery, when, suddenly, a cry of "Fire! fire!" wasraised in the street. The learned Doctor stood as if electrified, andthe instant after his hearers rushed pell-mell out of the chapel, amidst the shrieks of the females, and the consternation of the men, caused, without doubt, by a lurking suspicion of impending evil from thenegroes which I have before referred to. On ascertaining that the alarmwas caused by a house being on fire in the vicinity, the service wasabruptly terminated. 

The following day I continued my perambulations; to the left of theepiscopal church I have already mentioned, and surrounded by umbrageoustrees in a park-like enclosure, is the Town-hall. I entered thisbuilding, where I found a bench of magistrates, the mayor of the citybeing amongst them, adjudicating on the cases brought before them. Theseconsisted chiefly of negroes apprehended in the streets after nineo'clock the previous night; they were in all cases, except where theirowners paid the fine, sentenced to receive from ten to twenty lashes, which were administered at once by the city gaoler, in a yard at therear of a building, near which officers were in attendance for thepurpose. I must mention, in explanation, that one of the laws passeddirectly after the insurrection, was to prohibit negroes, on anypretence, to be out after nine, p. M. At that hour, the city guard, armedwith muskets and bayonets, patrolled the streets, and apprehended everynegro, male or female, they found abroad. It was a stirring scene, whenthe drums beat at the guard-house in the public square I have beforedescribed, preparatory to the rounds of the soldiers, to witness thenegroes scouring the streets in all directions, to get to their placesof abode, many of them in great trepidation, uttering ejaculations ofterror as they ran. This was an inexorable law, and punishment or finewas sure to follow its dereliction, no excuse being available, and asthe owners seldom submitted to pay the fine, the slaves were compelledto take the consequences, which, in the language that consigned them tothe cruel infliction, "consisted of from ten to twenty lashes, well laidon with a raw-hide, " a murderous whip, which draws blood after the firstfew strokes, and is as torturing, I should imagine, as the Russianknout, certainly proving in many instances as fatal as that odiousinstrument. The crowning severity of the enactments I have referred to, remains, however, to be told. So heinous in a negro, is the crime oflifting his hand in opposition to a white man in South Carolina, thatthe law adjudges that the offending member shall be forfeited. This is, or was, quite as inexorable as the one I have before spoken of, and whenin Charleston, I frequently, amongst the flocks of negroes passing andrepassing, saw individuals with one hand only. Like the administrationof miscalled justice on negroes in all slave-holding states in America, the process was summary; the offender was arrested, brought before thebench of sitting magistrates, and on the _ex parte_[A] statement of hisaccuser, condemned to mutilation, being at once marched out to the rearof the building and the hand lopped off on a block fixed there for thepurpose. I noticed a block and axe myself in the yard of a building nearthe town-hall, and on looking at them closely, saw they were stainedalmost black, with what I have little hesitation in saying was humanblood. My conductor, however, tried to divert my attention from theobject, and knowing I was an Englishman, refused to enter on thesubject. 

[FOOTNOTE A: The writer was assured, when in Charleston, that this wasthe case in five out of every six cases. ]

Another of the many cruel laws put in force after the _emeute_ of thenegroes, was to prohibit any coloured person from walking on thepavements, and forcing all males to salute every white they met. Thesedistinctions, although falling into disuse, are not even yet abolished, but still, with many others equally odious, disgrace the Carolineanstatute book. I saw several negroes from the plantation districts, walking in the road instead of on the pavement, in accordance with thislaw, touching their hats to every white passer-by; they wereconsequently obliged to be continually lifting their hands to theirheads, for they passed white people at every step. Although I believeno punishment is now enforced for the omission of this humiliatinghomage to colour, the men I have referred to were doubtless afraid todisregard the ceremony. 

A partiality exists in every part of America for music; indeed, sostrongly is this developed, that in almost all the towns, and even insome hamlets in the western states, subscription bands are keptup--these play every evening, when the weather admits, in the centre ofthe public square, the citizens the while promenading round with theirwives and families. 

But, although a decided penchant prevails for music, the preference isgiven by the mass to a few ordinary airs, calculated to inspire thatlove of country which every reminiscence of the struggle forindependence calls forth. The favourite air is the so-called nationalone of "Hail, Columbia, " although this is but second to the fantasticdrollery of "Yankee Doodle;" the latter is vociferously called for atall places of amusement, and excites in the audience, at such places ofresort, almost frantic sensations. This is the more remarkable, as itwas originally composed by an Englishman, and, as it is so intimatelyconnected with Americanism, I shall, perhaps, be excused for introducinghere what may be termed its history. 

In the attacks made upon the French posts in America, in 1755, thoseagainst Niagara and Frontenac were made by Governor Shirley, ofMassachusetts, and General Jackson, of New York. Their army during thesummer lay on the eastern bank of the Hudson, a little south of Albany. Early in June, the troops of the eastern provinces began to pour incompany after company, and such an assemblage never before throngedtogether on such an occasion. "It would have relaxed the gravity of ananchorite, " says the historian, "to see the descendants of the Puritansmarching through the streets of the ancient city, and taking theirstations on the left of the British army--some with long coats, andothers with no coats at all, and with colours as various as the rainbow;some with their hair cropped like the army of Cromwell, and others withwigs, the locks of which floated with grace round their shoulders. Theirmarch, their accoutrements, and the whole arrangement of the troops, furnished matter of amusement to the British army. The music played theairs of two centuries ago; and the _tout ensemble_, upon the whole, exhibited a sight to the wondering strangers to which they had beenunaccustomed. "

Among the club of wits that belonged to the British army, there was aDoctor Shackburg attached to the staff, who combined with his knowledgeof surgery the skill and talent of a musician. To please the new-comers, he composed a tune, and, with much gravity, recommended it to theofficers as one of the most celebrated airs of martial music. The joketook, to the no small amusement of the British. Brother Jonathanexclaimed, it was "nation fine;" and in a few days, nothing was heard inthe provincial camp but the air of "Yankee Doodle. "

Little did the author, in his composition, then suppose, that an air, made for the purpose of levity and ridicule, should be marked for suchhigh destinies. In twenty years from that time, the national march--nowuniversally recognized by the patriots--inspired the heroes of Bunker'sHill; and, in less than thirty, Lord Cornwallis and his army marchedinto the American lines to the tune of "Yankee Doodle. "

CHAPTER VII. 

 "Woe worth the hour when it is crime To plead the poor dumb bondman's cause, When all that makes the heart sublime, The glorious throbs that conquer time, Are traitors to our cruel laws. "--LOWELL

The general appearance of the majority of the coloured people in thestreets of Charleston denoted abject fear and timidity, some of them asI passed looking with servile dread at me (as they did at almost everyone who happened to pass), so that I could read in many of their looks asuspicion of interference, which, commiserating their condition as Idid, was quite distressing. 

It is impossible to form a correct estimate of what the perpetuators ofslavery have to expect, if once the coloured population obtain adominant position. The acknowledged gradual depopulation of the whitesin the slave states, through sickness, exhaustion of the land, andconsequent emigration, united with other causes, there is no doubt willeventually result in a great preponderance of coloured people, who, aroused by the iniquitous treatment they undergo, will rise under someresolute leader, and redress their wrongs. I was quite struck to see inCharleston such a disproportion of the colours, and, withoutexaggerating, I can say, that almost if not quite three-fourths of thoseI met in the streets were, if not actually of the negro race, tinged ina greater or less degree with the hue. 

Pursuing my perambulations, I came to the slave and general cotton placeof vendue, to the left of the General Post-office, which building is avery substantial edifice of stone. Here a dozen or twenty auctioneerswere loudly holding forth to the assembled crowds, and cracking up theirwares in New York style. The most indescribable scene of bustle andconfusion prevailed, the whole street being covered with open bales andboxes of goods. In one part of the street was a slave warehouse, andadvertisements were placarded outside of the particulars of the variouslots to be offered for competition, and now on view. As the privilege ofviewing in this instance was confined to those who possessed tickets, Idid not apply for one, as I knew that the wish would be attributed tocuriosity, and possibly a worse construction be put upon it, through mybeing a stranger in the place. 

Passing onwards through the assembled throng, I got into a more secludedpart of the city, and came upon a large burial-ground, in which many ofthe monuments erected to the memory of the dead were of a very expensivedescription. One in particular attracted my notice; this, on inquiry ofa gentlemanly-looking man, who, like myself, was inclined to "meditateamong the tombs, " I ascertained had been erected by the relatives of aplanter, who had resided in an adjoining state, but who had severalcotton plantations within ten miles of Charleston; these he occasionallyvisited, but in general confided to the care of an overseer, who livedwith his family on one of them. The season anterior to his last visithad been a very unpropitious one, and he was much dissatisfied with themanagement. To prevent a recurrence of this loss, and, under the strongimpression that the hands were not worked as they should be, he resolvedto inspect the plantations himself, and administer some wholesomediscipline in _propriâ personâ;_ for this purpose, he visited one of theplantations, intending afterwards to proceed to the others in rotation. It so happened that he arrived when not expected; and, finding hisoverseer absent, and many of the hands not as closely engaged as hewished, he became violently enraged. Summoning the overseer, he orderedall hands in front of the house to witness a punishment, and causingeight or ten of those whom he pointed out to be tied up at once and wellwhipped, stood by the while in uncontrollable anger to give directions. In the midst of the scene, and while urging greater severity, he wasseized with a fit of apoplexy, which was of such a nature, that it atonce closed his career, and he died instantaneously. Directly the manfell, the negroes collected round him and uttered cries andlamentations, and the poor wretch who was at the moment the victim ofhis brutality, on being untied, which was immediately done, joined init. Notwithstanding that my companion had a decided leaning towards theextinction of slavery, (although he started various objections to itsabolition, ) I was quite inclined to believe his relation, having, whenin Florida, met with a somewhat similar instance of the devotedness ofthe negro race, in an old woman who was bitterly bewailing the loss ofher deceased mistress. The latter was an English lady, but not over kindto her, and reflected no credit on her countrywomen. The poor creaturein touching strains enlarged upon her beauty and accomplishments, butwhen I questioned her as to her treatment of the negroes in generalbelonging to the estates, would say little on the subject, and shookher head; in it was plain that, like most females living in the south, she was a pampered worldling, entirely engrossed by principles ofself-interest, and little regarding the welfare of her dependents, ifnot, as I have before observed, very severe towards them. She diedprematurely, from the effects of one of those virulent fevers, that insouthern latitudes are so often fatal to the inhabitants, especially tothose who have been nurtured in Europe. Her encoffined remains wereshipped on board a vessel, to be conveyed to England for burial, inaccordance with her expressed wish. When the poor creature came to thatpart of her piteous tale, when, as she called her, her "beautiful angelof a mistress" was put in the coffin, and the estate hands were calledin to take a last view of her (a custom in vogue there sometimes), shewas overpowered with grief, and her utterance was so choked, that shecould scarcely proceed. 

During my stay in Charleston, I became acquainted with a gentleman ofcolour, who followed a lucrative business as a dealer of some kind, andwho had formerly been a slave. The introduction arose in rather asingular way, it being through a proposition made to open a school forthe education of coloured children, in which I took an interest. 

Great opposition was offered to the scheme by the white rulers of theplace, who declared the project illegal, the enactments passedsubsequent and prior to the insurrection stringently forbidding it, orany attempt to impart secular knowledge to the slaves. Notwithstandingthe violent threats used to prevent it, a meeting was however convenedto be held at the house of the gentleman referred to, and which Iresolved, though not unaccompanied with danger to my person, to take anactive part in. I accordingly went to his home on the evening appointed;this was a spacious house, furnished in sumptuous style, with extensivepremises adjoining, contiguous to the north end of the levee. I noticedthat the walls were hung with good oil paintings gorgeously framed, principally family portraits, but the most prominent in position wasthat of the unfortunate Haytian chief, Toussaint L'Ouverture, whosecruel end, at the instigation of the vindictive Bonaparte, will for everreflect shame on the French name as long as a sense of justice and loveof virtue and probity exists in the bosom of mankind. Far be it from meto trample on the name of one whom retributive justice has consigned tothe dust, but the cruelty of Napoleon towards this magnanimous prince, and his final barbarity in consigning him to a damp dungeon in afastness amongst the Alps, where he perished in exile from his subjectsand family after ten months' miserable endurance of the hardshipswrongfully imposed on him, almost causes a feeling of exultation at thedownfall of a despot, who, aiming at the sovereignty of the world, scrupled not to sacrifice virtue and good faith at the shrine ofambition. The fate of both chiefs was similar, for both perished incaptivity--the one the victim, perhaps, of inordinate ambition, theother of unscrupulous avarice and envious malignity. The misfortunes ofToussaint L'Ouverture have indeed with justice been pronounced the"history of the negro race, " for, in almost every instance wherecoloured men have pushed themselves above the common level, they haveincurred the envy of white men, and, in too many instances, have beencrushed by their overbearing tyranny. 

The meeting was conducted with religious decorum, most, if not all, ofthe coloured gentlemen present being members of the Wesleyan connection. I was pleased with the temperate spirit in which their wrongs werediscussed; and, after drawing up the rules, forming a committee, andarranging other necessary preliminaries, the meeting broke up. 

On reaching my hotel on my return, I was at once waited upon by thelandlord, who, in certainly a respectful manner, informed me that theinterest I had the day before incautiously expressed regarding theschool, had led to my being watched to the house where the meeting washeld; and that, to avoid the unpleasantness which would result from mycontinuing to take any steps in the matter, and which might ensue, hesaid, from the suspicions excited, he strongly advised that I should thenext day address a letter to the editor of the principal newspaper inthe city, repudiating all connection with a movement calculated, hesaid, to disturb the public mind, and, perhaps, cause disturbance. ThisI refused to do, but told him I did not intend to figure prominently inthe matter, and that my stay in the city would be very limited. He thenrelated several instances of mob law, which had been enacted-within thetwelve months preceding, which, he said, were quite necessary tomaintain southern rights, and which he did not fail to let me know hefully concurred in. After this hint, conveyed, I must say, in a friendlyspirit, whatever my private opinion was as to the occasion of it, Imingled, during the remainder of my stay, very little with thefrequenters of his establishment--a policy which I considered necessaryfrom personal considerations; and, owing to this cautious behaviour, Iwas not afterwards interfered with, though often eyed with suspicion. 

The school was opened during my stay, but continued so but a shorttime, the virulent conduct of the constables, supported by some of thecitizens and the civil authorities, compelling its discontinuance. Thisis not to be wondered at, when it is remembered that the old statute lawof South Carolina prohibits the education of negroes, bond or free, under a penalty of fine and imprisonment; and, although before therecent _emeute_ it was falling into disuse, that event revived itsenforcement with ancient malignity. 

The free negro gentleman, at whose house the preliminaries for openingthe school referred to were gone through, informed me, on a subsequentoccasion, that the constant vexations and annoyances he was subjectedto, owing to the prejudice in the minds of southern people regardingcolour, would compel him to relinquish his business, and proceed eitherto Canada or to the free states. He deplored the alternative much, as hehad been born and bred a slave in Carolina, and, by untiring assiduity, had saved money enough to emancipate himself and his wife; "In fact, " headded, "I feel this is my country, and leaving it will come hard. " Hehad a numerous family, which he maintained in great respectability, andhis business being a profitable one made him more reluctant to abandonit and the advantages that otherwise would attend his continuance inCharleston. He hospitably entertained me at his home, and appearedhighly gratified at meeting with a white man who felt disposed to regardhim with equality. 

After dining at his house one day, he took me a ride round the suburbsof the city, which I noticed were flat and exceedingly uninteresting. Wereturned by way of the Marine Parade, which is certainly a _chefd'oeuvre_ of its kind. This is on the south side of the city, andcommands a magnificent sea-view. It is raised far above the sea, andlaid out with carriage-drives and paths for pedestrians. Far out, looking towards Cape Hatteras, is a fort on an island; this is alwaysgarrisoned by a detachment of U. S. Troops, and of late years has beenused as a receptacle for those daring chiefs among the Indians, who, bytheir indomitable courage, have been the terror of the United Statesfrontier. Here that hero Oceola, chief of the Seminoles, died not longbefore, in captivity, from excessive grief, caused by the treachery ofcertain American officers, who, under a pretended truce, seized him andhis attendant warriors. Below us in the bay we could see the fins ofseveral sharks, ploughing the waves in search of prey; while theconstant sailing to and fro of Cuba fruit-boats, laden with bananas, pawpaws, pine-apples, and every luxury that and contiguous islandsafford, enlivened the scene, which altogether was one of extraordinarybeauty. 

There was a large assemblage of ladies and gentlemen promenading, and, as I rode with my friend, I had some very furtive glances from thecrowd, which were intended, no doubt, to remind me that my keeping suchcompany was _infra dig_. , if not open to suspicion. There was in truthno little hazard in riding about in public with a man against whoseacquaintance I had a short time before been cautioned, and I felt myposition rather an uncomfortable one. 

Had some of the young blood of Charleston been up, there is little doubtbut that I must have left the place _sans ceremonie. _ Possessed of anatural urbanity, or, what in elevated society amongst white people, would be termed true politeness, the manner of the well-bred negro isprepossessing. This was very remarkable in my coloured friend, who waswell informed, and possessed a refinement and intelligence I had neverbefore met with in any of his race. On the subject of enslavement hewould at first venture few observations, confining himself to thoseinconveniences and annoyances that affected him individually; he, however, became, after a time, more communicative. 

On the whole, at first, I was not a little apprehensive that mycoloured acquaintance was under the impression that my friendship wasnot sincere, although he did not say as much in his conversation; theimpression, however, soon left me, after a further intimacy. Iconsidered then, and do now, that the suspicion was quite excusable, theJesuitical practices and underhand trickery descended to by the whitepopulation in the slave states, in order to ascertain how individualsstand affected, are so numerous, that the coloured people are obliged tobe wary of those they either suspect, or of whom, being strangers, theyknow little. 

I remember well, whilst riding with him on the occasion I have alreadyreferred to, we drove past a white man on horseback, who (as is commonin Charleston), was correcting his negro in the street. The poor fellowwas writhing under the cruel infliction of a flagellation with araw-hide, and rent the air with his cries. This only increased the rageof his master, who seemed to take delight in striking his face and ears. I eagerly watched the scene, and, as we passed, leaned over the back ofthe gig. My companion, fearing, I suppose, lest the sight might provokein me some exclamation, and thus get us into notice, nudged me violentlywith his elbow, saying at the same time, hurriedly, "Don't heed, don'theed. " My blood was getting hot, and but for my companion, my passionwould, in all probability, have got the better of my discretion, and Ishould without remedy have been involved in a dispute, if notimmediately apprehended. As we rode on, I adverted to this barefacedexhibition of tyranny in an open thoroughfare, which, I remarked, wassufficient proof of the iniquity of the system, in spite of theassertions made by the southerners to the contrary. In reply to this, all my companion remarked was, "Did you never see that done before?" Myanswer was, I had seen negroes cruelly treated on estates, andelsewhere, but that this scene was the more revolting from its beingenacted in the open highway. Seeing that he was anxious to avoid thesubject, and that the observations he had made were drawn from him by myremarks, I remained silent, and, wrapped in deep reflections on theoutrage we had witnessed, at length reached his dwelling. The occurrenceI suppose somewhat affected my spirits, for soon after we got into thedrawing-room, no one else being present, my friend addressed me, nodoubt observing my depression, nearly as follows. "Sir, you seem to havea tender compassion for my poor countrymen; would to God white men wereall as feeling here. The system is an accursed one, but what can we dobut bear it patiently? Every hand seems against us, and we dare notspeak for ourselves. " I told him I deeply sympathised with hisoppressed countrymen, and lived in hope that before long the public mindin America would be aroused from its apathy, and the accumulated wrongsof the race be redressed. His only reply was, "God grant it, I hope sotoo. "

In Charleston there exist several charitable institutions, but these, Ibelieve, with only one exception, are for the benefit of poor whitepeople. The innate benevolence of the human heart is thus, in the midstof dire oppression, wont to hold its sway, notwithstanding the poisonousinfluences that surround. But the pro-slavery business neutralizes thesewould-be benefactors, and taints all their endeavours, under the cloakof benevolence, to remove the odium it so justly incurs. "Liberate yourslaves, and then I will talk to you about religion and charity, " werethe emphatic words of an eminent northern divine in his correspondencewith the committee of a benevolent institution in the south, some yearsago, and the admonition speaks as forcibly now as it did then. 

As you walk the streets of Charleston, rows of greedy vultures, withsapient look, sit on the parapets of the houses, watching for offal. These birds are great blessings in warm climates, and in Carolina a fineof ten dollars is inflicted for wantonly destroying them. They appearedto be quite conscious of their privileges, and sailed down from thehouse-tops into the streets, where they stalked about, hardly caring tomove out of the way of the horses and carriages passing. They were of aneagle-brown colour, and many of them appeared well conditioned, even toobesity. At night scores of dogs collect in the streets, and yelp andbark in the most annoying manner. This it is customary to remedy by agun being fired from a window at the midnight interlopers, when theydisperse in great terror. I should remark that this is a common nuisancein warm latitudes. Some of these animals live in the wilds, and, likejackals, steal into the towns at night to eke out a scanty subsistence. At first my rest was greatly disturbed by their noisy yelpings, but Isoon became accustomed to the inconvenience, and thought little of it. 

The warmth of the climate induces great lassitude and indisposition toexertion, _alias_ indolence. I began to experience this soon afterarriving in the south. This, which in England would be called laziness, is encouraged by the most trifling offices being performed by slaves. The females in particular give way to this inertness, and active womenare seldom to be met with, the wives of men in affluent circumstancesbeing in general like pampered children, and suffering dreadfully from_ennui_. On one occasion an English gentleman at Charleston, with whom Ibecame acquainted, and whose hospitality I shall never forget, whenconversing on the subject, addressed me thus: "Good, active wives areseldom to be met with in this state, amongst the natives; I may say, hardly ever; the females are nurtured in indolence, and in seeking whatthey term a settlement, look more to the man's means than the likelihoodof living happily with him. There is no disguising it--theconsidera--with them is a _sine quâ non_. Few girls would refuse a manwho possessed a goodly number of slaves, though they were sure hisaffections would be shared by some of the best-looking of the femalesamongst them, and his conduct towards the remainder that of a verydemon. " These sentiments I very soon ascertained to be in no waylibellous. A southern wife, if she is prodigally furnished with dollarsto "go shopping, " apparently considers it no drawback to her happinessif some brilliant mulatto or quadroon woman ensnares her husband. Ofcourse there are exceptions, but the patriarchal usage is so engraftedin society there, that it elicits little notice or comment. Nor, fromwhat I gleaned, are the ladies themselves immaculate, as may be inferredfrom the occasional quadroon aspect of their progeny. 

The Jews are a very numerous and influential body in Charleston, andmonopolize many of its corporate honours. They were described as veryhaughty and captious; this, however, is saying no more of the stock ofIsrael than is observable all over the world, hen they are in prosperouscircumstances, although, when this is not the case, perhaps none of thehuman family are so abject and servile, not excepting slaves themselves. In process of time, these people bid fair to concentrate in themselvesmost of the wealth and influence of Charleston. If their perseverance(which is here indomitable) should attain this result, they will be inpretty much the same position there that Pharaoh occupied over theirrace in Egypt in olden time, and, if reports speak true, will wield thesceptre of authority over their captives in a somewhat similar style. Avarice is the besetting sin of the Israelite, and here his slaves aretaxed beyond endurance. To exact the utmost from his labour is theconstant aim, and I was informed that many of the slaves belonging toJews were sent out, and compelled on the Saturday night to bring in amuch larger sum than it was reasonably possible the poor creatures couldearn, and if not successful, they were subjected to the most crueltreatment. 

Not long after my arrival in Charleston, I several times met a youngcoloured man, who was of so prepossessing an appearance, that I feltdesirous to become acquainted with him, and, as I was at a loss to findmy way to the residence of the mayor, a good opportunity one dayoffered, and I addressed him. He very courteously took me to the streetin which the house was situated, and we talked on general topics as wewent--in the course of which he stated, he was saving money for hisransom, and in two years intended to proceed to Montreal, in Canada. Icould see, however, that the free manner in which we conversed attractedthe attention of three or four individuals as we passed them--thesewould stop as if to satisfy their curiosity, some even took the troubleto watch us out of sight; looking back, I several times saw one moreimpertinent-looking than some others eyeing us intently, and once Ifancied I saw him turn as if to overtake us. This curiosity I had oftenperceived before, but, as disagreeable results might follow, Iinvariably made a practice to take no notice of it when in the companyof a coloured individual. A smile played upon the features of my duskycompanion, as I turned to observe the inquisitive fellows I havereferred to; perhaps I was taken for a negro-stealer, but, as I treatedmy companion with equality, I was most likely set down as one of thosedangerous personages, who, through zeal in the cause of emancipation, sometimes penetrate, into the slave districts, and are accused (withwhat degree of justice I cannot tell) of infusing into the minds of theslaves discontented notions and agrarian principles. 

As I met, on the occasion I have just referred to, an individual whoknew I had felt an interest in endeavouring to establish the school forthe education of negro children, the result of which I have alreadymentioned, I was apprehensive that the _contretemps_ would have exposedme to the unpleasantness of at least being shunned afterwards as a manentertaining principles inimical to southern interests--and, howeverresolute I felt to pursue an independent course while I remained inCharleston, I could not shake off a fear I vaguely entertained of apublic recognition by a deeply prejudiced and ignorant populace, who, once set on, do not hesitate to proceed to disagreeable extremes. Thisfear was enhanced in no little degree by the operation I had witnessed, of the tarring and feathering process practised by enraged citizens inthe Missouri country, which I have before described. 

The most degrading phrase that can be applied in the south to thosewhite individuals who sympathize in the wrongs inflicted on the Africanrace, I soon found to be, that "he associates with niggers. " Thus akind-hearted individual at once "loses caste" among his fellow citizensand, invidious though it certainly is, many slave-owners are deterredby this consideration, blended with a politic regard for their ownsafety, from exercising that benevolence towards their dependents whichthey sincerely feel; placed, as it were, under a sort of social ban, such men artfully conceal their sentiments from the public, and, by amore lenient treatment of their own hands, quiet their consciences;while, at the same time, they blunt their sense of what is honest, upright, just, and manly. Instances have occasionally occurred where menof correct principles have so far succumbed to this sense of duty, as toliberate their slaves. These are, however, rare occurrences, and, whenthey do happen, are usually confined to men of sterling religiousprinciples, who, like that great exception, the respectable class ofpeople called Quakers, in America, refuse, from a conviction of theenormity of the evil, to recognize as members those who hold or trafficin slaves. 

It is through the influence of such men that the iniquities of thesystem become exposed to public view, and remedies are sometimes, inflagrant cases of cruelty, applied. The legislatures of the severalslave states, however, have given such absolute dominion, by a rigorouscode of laws, to the owner, that the greatest enormities may becommitted almost with impunity, or at least with but a remote chance ofjustice having its legitimate sway. 

The mass of slave-owners are interested in concealing enormitiescommitted by their fellows, and are backed by a venal press, which, whether bribed or not (and there is every reason to suspect that this isoften the case), puts such a construction on _outrage_, by garbled_reports_, as to turn the tide of sympathy from the victim to theperpetrator. No editor, possessing the least leaven of anti-slaveryprinciples, would be patronized; and it not infrequently happens thatsuch men are mobbed and driven perforce to leave the slave, for the morenorthern or free, states. Here they stand a better chance, but, in manyinstances, the prejudice, it is said, follows their course, and southerninfluence occasions their bankruptcy or non-success. 

The practice, so common in the slave states, of the citizenscongregating at the bars of hotels or cafés in the towns and cities towhile away the time, renders attendance at such places the readiestmeans of ascertaining the state of the public mind on any engrossingsubject, opinions being here freely discussed, not, however, withoutbias and anger; on the contrary, the practice is most sectarian, andfrequently involves deadly feuds and personal encounters, these latterbeing of every-day occurrence. Ever since I had been in the southernstates, my attention had been attracted to the swarms of well-dressedloungers at cafés and hotels. At first, like many other travellers, Iwas deluded by the notion that these idlers were men of independentmeans, but my mind was soon disabused of this fallacy. I ascertainedthat the greater portion of these belong to that numerous class inAmerica known as sporting gentlemen; in plainer terms, gamblers. Some ofthese men had belonged to the higher walks of life; these were the more"retiring few" who (probably through a sense of shame not quiteextinguished) felt rather disposed to shrink from than to attractattention. The majority of these idlers were impudent-looking braggarts, who, with jaunty air and coxcombical show of superiority, endeavoured toenforce their own opinions, and to silence those of every one else. 

There was also another class of frequenters at such places; thisconsisted of tradesmen who pass much of their time hanging about at suchresorts, to the great detriment of their individual affairs; and, lastly, such travellers as might be stopping in the town, who, through_ennui_ and inveterate habit, had left their hotels, and sauntered "uptown" (as they call gadding about), to hear the news of the day. 

Soon ascertaining that such places were the best, and, excepting thepublic prints, the only resort to ascertain the latest intelligence, andto collect information respecting the movements of the blackpopulation, and the company, however exceptionable, being termed thererespectable, I adopted the plan, on several successive evenings, ofquietly smoking a cigar and listening to passing observations andremarks. Some of these were disgusting enough; so much so, that I willnot offend my readers by repeating them. Suffice it to say, that anyindividual possessing the slightest pretensions to the name ofgentleman, in any hotel I had visited in England, on indulging in theindecorous language I heard at these places, would, by a very summaryprocess, have met with ejectment, without ceremony. Here, however, alaxity of moral feeling prevails, that stifles all sense of propriety;and scurrility, obscene language, and filthy jests, of which thecoloured population are, I suppose, per force of habit, the principalbutts, form the chief attractions of such places of resort to theirvitiated frequenters. 

In the course of these visits I was present at some angry altercations;one of these referred to the recent visit of an individual who wastermed by the disputants an "incendiary abolitionist, " and who, itappeared, had been detected in the act of distributing tracts, which hadbeen published at Salem, in Massachusetts, exposing the disabilities theAfrican race were labouring under. Extracts from one of these tractswere read, and appeared very much to increase the violence of thecontending parties, one of whom insisted that the publication containednothing but what might be read by every slave in the sacred Scriptures, and that, therefore, it could not be classed as dangerous, although headmitted that it contained notions of "human rights" that werecalculated to imbue the mind of the "niggers" with unbecoming ideas. These sentiments did not at all accord with those of the company, andseveral expressions of doubt as to the soundness of the speaker's ownpro-slavery principles, together with the increasing excitement, causedhim to withdraw from the contest. His immediate antagonist, who wasevidently the leading man on the occasion, enlarged on the dangerattending the sufferance of such men at large in the slave states, andproceeded, with great volubility, to quote various passages from theBlack Code to show that the Legislature had contemplated the intrusionof such pestilent fellows, and had, in fact, given full power to remedythe evil, if the citizens chose to exercise it; and went on to observe, that the rights of southern people were now-a-days invaded on everyhand, and it behoved them to stand in their own defence, his advice, hesaid, was, if the municipal authorities let the fellow go, to form acommittee of justice to adjudicate on the case, and if it wasconsidered conducive to the public weal, to administer salutarypunishment. This proposal was uproariously applauded, and four of thecitizens present, with the last speaker for chairman, were named on thespot to watch the case. "And now, " added this gentleman, "we'll have agin sling round for success. " I heard the day following that theindividual who was the subject of the foregoing proceedings, was accusedbefore the mayor, who dismissed the case with a caution, advising him toleave the city with all dispatch, to avoid disagreeable consequences. This the man, by the aid of a constable, managed to do, thatfunctionary, no doubt for a consideration, taking him to the cityprison, and locking him up until nightfall, when he was assisted toleave the place, disguised as a soldier. This, I was informed by afriend, to whom I afterwards related it, was one of those commotionsthat occur almost daily in southern towns and cities. 

Such lawless frequenters of hotels, taverns, and cafés, form a kind ofsocial police, and scarcely a stranger visits the place without hismotives for the visit being canvassed, and his business often exposed, much to his great annoyance and inconvenience. 

So accustomed do American travellers in the south appear, to this systemof internal surveillance, that I several times noticed strangers at thehotel or café counters openly explaining the object of their visits, andif there is nothing to conceal, however annoying the alternativeappears, I am convinced the policy is not had, a host of suspicionsbeing silenced by such a course. 

In my travels on the whole route from New York to Charleston, Idiscovered a most unjustifiable and impertinent disposition to pry intothe business of others. If I was questioned once, I am sure I was atleast fifty times, by my fellow--travellers from time to time as to mymotive for visiting America, and my intended proceedings. I found, however', that a certain reserve was an efficient remedy. CaptainWaterton, of South American celebrity, as an ornithologist, and whovisited North America in his travels, mentions that if you confide youraffairs and intentions when questioned, the Americans reciprocate thatconfidence by relating their own. My own experience, however, did notcorroborate this view of the case, for, though loquacious in theextreme, and gifted, so that to use a Yankee phrase, they would "talk adog's hind-leg off, " they are in general cautious not to divulge theirsecrets. To say the least of it, the habit of prying into the businessof others, is one totally unbecoming a well-ordered state of society, which the American, speaking generally, is decidedly not. It isextremely annoying, from the unpleasant feeling it excites, that you aresuspected if not watched (this applies forcibly to the slave districts);and it is a habit that has arisen purely from the incongruity of societyat large on the American continent, and a want of that subdivision ofclass that exists in Europe. 

During my visits to the various hotels while I remained in Charleston, for the purpose of collecting information, I was several timesinterrogated in a barefaced manner by the visitors who frequent thoseplaces, as to my politics, and especially as to my principles in regardto the institution of slavery; now, as I was not unaware that myintimacy with the gentleman of colour, which I have already referred to, had got abroad, I was obliged to be extremely guarded in my replies onsuch occasions. It was on one of these that I felt myself in greathazard, for two individuals in the company were discussing with muchenergy, the question of amalgamation (that is, marriage, contractedbetween black and white men and women), and I was listening intently totheir altercation, when suddenly one of them, eyeing me with maliciousgaze, no doubt having noticed my attention to the colloquy, said, "Your opinion, stranger, on this subject; I guess you understand ittorrably well, as you seem to be pretty hard on B----'s eldestdaughter. " This unexpected sally rather alarmed me, for the name hementioned was that of my coloured friend I have before alluded to, andwhose daughter I had only met once, and that at her father's house. 

I scarcely knew what to reply, but thought it best to put on a boldface, so facing the man, I thanked him with much irony for the inuendo, and said, it was a piece of impudence I thought very much like him fromwhat I had overheard. 

This was said in a resolute tone, and the fellow quailed before it, hisreply being, "Now stranger, don't get angry, I saw you the other day atB----'s house, and could not tell what to make of it, but I hope youdon't think that I was in arnest. "

I replied to this, that I knew best what business I had at B----'shouse, and that his plan was to mind his own business. I then left him, apparently highly indignant, but in fact glad to make my escape. Likebullies all the world over, the southern ones are cowards; there is, however, great danger here in embroiling yourself with such characters, the pistol and bowie knife being instantly resorted to if the quarrelbecomes serious. I saw this braggart on several occasions afterwards, but he evidently kept aloof, and was disinclined to venture in the partof the room I occupied. I ascertained that he kept a dry goods store inKing-street, and was a boisterous fellow, often involved in quarrels. 

The discussion on amalgamation, which is a very vexed one, was againintroduced on a subsequent occasion; a planter from the north of thestate having (as is sometimes the case) sold off everything hepossessed, and removed to the State of Maine, taking with him a youngquadroon woman, with the intention of making her his lawful wife, andliving there retired. After the expression of a variety of opinions asto what this man deserved, some being of opinion that the subject oughtto be mooted in the legislature at Washington--others, that his wholeeffects ought to be escheated, for the benefit of the publictreasury--and by far the greater number that he ought to be summarilydealt with at the hands of the so-considered outraged citizens, which, in other language, meant "lynched, "--it was stated, by a very loquaciousYankee-looking fellow present, who made himself prominent in thediscussion, that it was the opinion of the company, that any manmarrying a woman with negro blood in her veins, should be hanged, as atraitor to southern interests and a bad citizen. This sentiment wasloudly applauded, and, had the unfortunate subject of it been inCharleston or near it, he would, in all probability, have been calledto account. To me it appeared remarkable, that men, who are alwaysboasting of the well-ordered institutions of their country (slaverybeing a very important one, be it remembered), should be ever ready toset aside all law, and, as it were, by _ex parte_ evidence alone, inflict summary vengeance on the offender; I was, however, always ofopinion, when amongst them, that four-fifths of the men would rejoice ifall law were abrogated, and the passions of the people allowed to governthe country, thus constituting themselves judges in their own case, andtrampling under foot every semblance of justice, equity, and commonpropriety. As it is, in many parts of the Union, the judges andmagistrates are notoriously awed by the people, and the most perfidiouswretches are suffered to escape the hands of justice. A fullconfirmation of this is to be found in the frequent outrages against lawand order reported in the newspapers, and which there elicit littleregard. 

Walking for a stroll, a day or two after, in the vicinity of theMarine-promenade, I saw a strange-looking cavalcade approaching. Twoarmed overseers were escorting five negroes, recently captured, to thecity gaol. The poor creatures were so heavily shackled, that they couldwalk but slowly, and their brutal conductors kept urging them on, chiefly by coarse language and oaths, now and then accompanied by asevere stroke with a slave-whip carried by one of them. The recoveredfugitives looked very dejected, and were, no doubt, brooding over theconsequences of their conduct. The elder of the party, a stout fellow ofabout forty-five years old, of very sullen look, had a distinct brand onhis forehead of the initials S. T. R. I afterwards inquired what thesebrand-marks signified, supposing, naturally, that they were the initialsof the name of his present or former owner. My informant, who was aby-stander, stated that he was, no doubt, an incorrigibly bad fellow, and that the initials S. T. R. Were often used in such cases. I inquiredtheir signification, when, to my astonishment, he replied it might be, "Stop the rascal, " and added that private signals were in constant useamong the inland planters, as he called them, who, he said, suffered somuch by their hands running away, that it was absolutely necessary toadopt a plan of the kind for security. He further stated, that suchincorrigibles, when caught, were never allowed to leave the plantations, so that if they ventured abroad, they carried the warrant for theirimmediate arrest with them. "But, " he went on, "people are beginning todislike such severity, and a new code of regulations, backed by theLegislature, is much talked of by the innovators, as we call them, toprevent such practices. " I have no doubt this man owned slaves himself. 

I said I thought myself that the policy of kindness would answer betterthan such severities, and it would be well if slave-holders generallywere to try it. 

"Ah, stranger, " he replied, "I see you don't understand things here, down south. Don't you know that people who are over kind get imposed on?This is specially the case with slaves; treat them well, and you'll soonfind them running off, or complaining. The only way to manage niggers isto keep them down, then you can control them, but not else. "

It has been urged a thousand times in defence of the upholders ofslavery in its various ramifications, that they are in reality, as abody, opposed to the system, and would readily conform to any changethat would be sufficiently comprehensive to indemnify them from presentand future loss. From conversations heard in South Carolina, and otherslave districts, I am quite satisfied that this is a misrepresentation, and that the generality of proprietors regard any change as a dangerousinnovation, and that, far from reluctantly following the occupation oftraders in flesh and blood, it is quite congenial to the vitiated tastesof the greater portion of southern citizens, whose perverted notions ofjustice and propriety are clamorously expressed on the most trivialoccasions. In whatever sphere of society amongst them you go, you findthe subject of "protecting their rights" urged with impetuosity; thesame rancorous feeling towards men of abolitionist sentiments, and thesame deprecation of the slave race. To decry the negroes in publicopinion is one of their constant rules of action, and if an individualattempts to assert their equal rights with mankind at large, he isconsidered as disaffected towards southern interests, and, if not openlythreatened, as I have before observed in this work, is unceremoniouslytalked down. ' It is thus often dangerous to broach the subject, and ifan individual, more daring than people generally are when in theplague-infected latitudes of slavery, attempts to repudiate the views sounhesitatingly expressed by the pro-slavery advocates, that the negrorace is but the connecting link between man and the brute creation, heis looked upon with disgust, and his society contemned. This overbearingconduct is so ingrained, that it shows itself on the most triflingoccasions, in their intercourse with their fellow-citizens. 

Argumentative facts might be produced _ad infinitum_ to prove that thelegal enactments for the government of the slave states of America havebeen framed so as to vest in the proprietor as much control over thelives and persons of those they hold in servitude as any animal in thecategory of plantation stock. This in my tour through that region ofmoral darkness and despair, the state of Louisiana, I had numberlessopportunities of observing, which would not fail to convince the mostsceptical; and if I have passed over many of these in the foregoingpages, it is because the incidents themselves (though proving that theslightest approach to independent action, or opposition to the depravedwills of their tyrannical superiors, is at once visited withconsequences that make me shudder to reflect upon) were of too trivial anature to interest the general reader. I will, however, copy here anextract from a paper published in Virginia, the _Richmond Times_ forAugust, 1852, which must, I think, tend to remove any doubts, if theyexist in the mind of the reader, that the conclusions I have come tofrom personal observation are correct, and sufficient to prove that thedespotic Nicholas of Russia himself does not exercise more absolutecontrol over the lives and liberties of the degraded serfs he rules, than the slave-appropriators of America do over their victims. 

The newspaper in question is a highly popular one with thearistocratical slave-owners of Virginia, and the editor one of thosechampions of the unjust and iniquitous system who invariably meet withextensive patronage in every part of the southern states. 

"A FIELD-HAND SHOT. --A gentleman named Ball, overseer to Mr. Edward T. Taylor, finding it necessary to chastise a field-hand, attempted to doso in the field. The negro resisted, and made fight, and, being thestronger of the two, gave the overseer a beating, and then betookhimself to the woods. Mr. Ball, as soon as he could do so, mounted hishorse, and, proceeding to Mr. Taylor's residence, informed him of whathad occurred. Taylor, in company with Ball, repaired to the corn-field, to which the negro had returned, and demanded to know the cause of hisconduct. The negro replied that Ball attempted to flog him, and he wouldnot submit to it. Taylor said he should, and ordered him to cross hishands, at the same time directing Ball to seize him. Ball did so, butperceiving the negro had attempted to draw a knife, told Mr. Taylor ofit, who immediately sprang from his horse, and, drawing a pistol, shotthe negro dead at his feet. "

The _Richmond Reporter_, a contemporary of the _Times_, commented onthis impious affair as follows:--"Mr. Taylor did what every man who hasthe management of negroes ought to do; enforce obedience, or kill them. "

It is the practice of the inhabitants of Charleston, in common, Ibelieve, with all owners of slaves in towns or cities in the slavestates, who have not employment sufficient for them at home, or when theslave is a cripple, to send them out to seek their own maintenance. Insuch cases the slave is compelled to give an account of what he hasearned during the week, at his owner's house, where he attends onSaturday evenings for the purpose. A fixed sum is generally demanded, inproportion to the average value of such labour at the time. I wasinformed that it frequently happens, that the master exacts the utmostthe slave can earn, so that the miserable pittance left is scarcelysufficient to sustain nature; this, no doubt, accounts for the haggard, care-worn appearance of such labourers, for, with few exceptions, Ifound hands thus sent out, more miserably clad and less hale than thecommon run of slaves. On the other hand, if a slave is a goodhandicraftsman, he is able to earn more than his master demands; suchinstances are, however, rare. These are the men who, by dint of hardwork and thrifty habits, accumulate sufficient eventually to obtainmanumission. There is, in most cases, a strict eye kept on such hands, and if the boon is attained, it is in general by stealthy means. 

At my boarding-house in Charleston, I often saw negro laundresses whocalled for linen; one of these in particular, I noticed, seemed to be inhabitual low spirits; on one occasion she appeared to be in unusualdistress, in consequence of one of the boarders leaving the house in herdebt. She said that her owner would certainly punish her if she did notmake up the required sum, and where to procure it she could not tell. Iwas touched by her tale, and immediately opened a subscription amongstthe boarders in the house, and succeeded in collecting a trifle over theamount she had lost; this I handed her, and she went on her wayrejoicing. 

I was told by a Carolinian who lodged at this house, that the practiceof sending out slaves to earn money in the way I have described, hasbeen in vogue from time immemorial, and that it was such a profitablemode of realizing by slave labour, that it was followed more extensivelyin that state now than formerly. 

I will conclude this part of my narration, by quoting the words of apowerful writer on the subject of slavery as I have witnessed itsoperation in America. 

"Amongst the afflicting ills which the wickedness of man has establishedupon earth, the greatest beyond compare is slavery. Indeed, itsconsequences are so dreadful, the sins which it engenders are of suchgigantic proportions, and all its accompaniments are so loathsome andhideous, that the minds of benevolent persons revolt from contemplatingit, as offering a spectacle of crime and cruelty, too deep for a remedy, and too vast for sympathy. Slavery is an infinite evil, the calculationsof its murders, its rapine, its barbarities, its deeds of lust andlicentiousness, though authenticated by the most unquestionableauthorities, would produce a total of horrors too great to be believed;and to narrate the history of these cruelties which have beenperpetrated by American slave-masters within the last five years alone, would be to tell idle fables in the opinions of those who have notdeeply studied the tragical subject. If we take the United States ofAmerica, where the outcry against slavery is greater than in any othercountry under heaven, and where we hear more of religion and revivalism, more of bustle and machinery of piety, a country setting itself up as abeacon of freedom; then does slavery amongst such a people appeartranscendently wicked; a sin, which, in addition to its usual crueltyand selfishness, is in them loaded with hypocrisy and ingratitude. Withhypocrisy, as it relates to their pretensions to liberty, and withingratitude, as it relates to that God who gave them to be free. This, indeed, makes all the institutions of America, civil and religious, little better than a solemn mockery, a tragical jest for the passers-byof other nations, who, seeing two millions and a half of slaves held infetters by vaunting freemen and ostentatious patriots, wag the head atthe disgusting sight, and cry out deridingly to degraded America, 'Theworm is spread under thee, and the worms cover thee. '"

My original intention of settling in America having been frustrated byill health and other causes, I embarked on board a fine barque bound forLiverpool, where, after a favourable run of three weeks, we arrived insafety. Nothing worth noting occurred on the passage, except a fracasbetween the captain and the first mate, whom the former had discoveredto be ignorant of the art of navigation, and who had, it appeared, beenengaged in a hurry on the eve of the vessel's departure from Charleston. 

One day, comparing the result of a solar observation with the mate, andfinding him out in his calculations, the captain accused him, in greatanger, of imposition, in offering his services as an efficient person tonavigate the ship. On my endeavouring to pacify him, he turned to me, ina violent passion, and exclaimed, "This man, sir, is 400 miles out inhis reckoning--and where would you and the ship be, do you think, if Iwere washed overboard!" this argument was too cogent to be combated, andso I interfered no more. He ordered the mate to go to the forecastle, and refused to admit him to the cabin during the remainder of thepassage. The mate was much irritated at this treatment, and, after aviolent altercation, one day rushed to his chest and brought up twopistols, one of which he presented in the face of the captain, daringhim at the same time to utter another word. The captain, highlyincensed, instantly descended the companion-way to the cabin, andshortly after appeared with a blunderbuss, which he proceeded to prime. I was in a terrible state of mind at this juncture, and fully expected afearful tragedy; this, however, was averted by the interference ofanother passenger, who stood between the parties. 

A violent storm overtook us in doubling Cape Hatteras soon after wesailed, which, besides damaging the bulwarks of the vessel, tore some ofthe sails to shivers; our ship stood it, however, gallantly, and, afterthat occurrence, we had favourable weather the remainder of the voyage. 

I was awaked early in the morning of the twenty-first day we had been atsea, by a cry from the man at the helm, of "Great Ormes Head, " and, hurrying on my clothes, I gained the deck. The high hills could beindistinctly seen through the morning haze, and the sight wasaccompanied with joyful feelings to all on board. This enthusiasm waseven communicated to the captain himself, who, since the affair with themate, had been very much disposed to be sullen and unfriendly. 

I never could form a correct estimate of this man's character, but itwas very evident he wished to pass for a pious man. He was a native ofthe eastern state of Massachusetts, and told me he had a family there. As to religion, I believe he had none, though he was a Methodist byprofession. I could often hear him praying audibly in his state-room onboard, with much apparent feeling--but so little did these devotionalfits aid him in curbing his wicked temper, that, even when engaged inthis manner, he would, if anything extraordinary occurred on deck todisturb him, rush up the companion-way, and rate and swear at thesailors awfully. 

Soon after making Ormes Head, a pilot came on board, and, with a fairwind, we proceeded towards the river Mersey. 

After my wanderings in the slave-stricken regions of the south, and myescapes in Florida, the sight of the hospitable shores of my nativecountry did more, I think, to renovate my injured health, than all thedrastics of the most eminent physicians in the world; certain it is, that, from this time, I gradually recovered, and, by the blessing ofthe Great Giver of all good, have been fully restored to that greatestof sublunary benefits--vigorous health; a consummation I at one timealmost despaired of. 

FINIS.