AMERICAN SCENES, AND

CHRISTIAN SLAVERY:

A RECENT TOUR OF FOUR THOUSAND MILES IN THE UNITED STATES. 

BY EBENEZER DAVIES, LATE MINISTER OF MISSION CHAPEL, NEW AMSTERDAM, BERBICE. 

MDCCCXLIX. 

PREFACE. 

During his recent sojourn in the United States, the Author did notconceive the intention of writing a book on the subject. All hecontemplated was the publication of a few letters in a London Journalon which he had been accustomed to rely for intelligence from Europewhen residing in Berbice. So much he was disposed to attempt forseveral reasons. 

Having entered the States by their most Southern port--that of NewOrleans, and finding himself at once in the midst of Slavery, he hadopportunities of observing that system not often enjoyed by a British"Abolitionist. " As the Pastor, also, of a large congregation, of whom agreat number were but a few years ago held in cruel bondage, he wouldnaturally look upon the treatment of the same race in America withkeener eyes and feelings more acute than if he had not stood in thatrelation. 

Identified, too, with those persons who represent the principles of theold Puritans and Nonconformists in England, he would survey the growthand spread of those principles in their new soil and climate with amore than common interest. New England, especially, on whose sods thefoot-prints of the Pilgrims had been impressed, and on whose rockstheir early altars had been reared, would be to him hallowed ground. 

Travelling, leisurely, as he did, at his own expense, northward fromNew Orleans to Boston, and westward as far as Utica, --making a tour ofmore than four thousand miles, sometimes known and sometimes unknown, just as inclination prompted, --representing no public body, bound to noparty, a "Deputation sent by himself, "--he was completely free andindependent in thought and action, and enjoyed advantages forobservation which do not often meet. 

It was natural that he should wish to tell his friends in GreatBritain, and in the West Indies, what he had seen and heard. Todenounce what is evil and to commend what is good is at all timesgratifying; in doing which, he sought to describe the men and themanners of America just as they appeared to him. 

Several letters, containing the narrative of a few days spent in NewOrleans, appeared in the _Patriot_. Their favourable reception by thereaders of that journal led to the preparation of the present volume, in which the letters referred to, having undergone a careful revision, re-appear, followed by nearly thirty others descriptive of the Author'stour. 

Our Transatlantic friends are morbidly sensitive as to the stricturesof strangers. They hate the whole tribe of Travellers and Tourists, Roamers and Ramblers, Peepers and Proclaimers, and affect to ridiculethe idea of men who merely pass through the country, presuming to giveopinions on things which it is alleged so cursory a view cannot qualifythem fully to understand. Our cousins have, doubtless, had occasionalprovocations from the detested race in question; but their feeling onthis point amounts to a national weakness. It is always worth knowinghow we appear to the eyes of others, and what impression the firstsight of us is apt to produce; and this knowledge none can communicatebut the stranger, the tourist, the passer-by. What faults and failingssoever we may have in England, and their "name is legion, " by all meanslet them be unsparingly exposed by every foreign tourist that treadsupon our soil. Let us be satirized, ridiculed, laughed at, caricatured, anything, so that we may be shamed out of all that is absurd andvicious in our habits and customs. In the present instance our Westernkinsmen are described by one, if they will believe his own testimony, of the most candid and truthful of travellers, --one who has viewed themand all their institutions, except _one_, with the most friendly eye, and who deeply regrets that so much of what is lovely and of goodreport should be marred and blotted by so much of what is disgracefulto a great and enlightened people. 

As to the performance in a literary point of view, the Author will saynothing. The public will form their own judgment. If they like it, theywill read; if not, the most seductive preface would not tempt them. 

E. DAVIES. 

LONDON, _January_ 1, 1849. 

CONTENTS. 

LETTER I. 

Occasion of Visit to the United States--First Impressions of theMississippi--Magnitude of that River--Impediment at its Entrance--TheNew Harbour--The "Great" and "Fat" Valley--High Pressure Steam-TugFrolics--Slave-Auction Facetiae

LETTER II. 

American Oysters--Becalmed in the Mississippi--Anchor raised--Shipashore--Taken off by a Steam Tug--Slave-Sale Advertisements--RunawayNegroes--Return of Fever--Terrific Storm--Frightful Position--Ashore atNew Orleans--A Ship-Chandler's Store--American Wheels--AJoltification--The St. Charles's Hotel

LETTER III. 

New Orleans--The Story of Pauline--Adieu to the St Charles's--Descriptionof that Establishment--First Sight of Slaves for Sale--Texts for SouthernDivines--Perilous Picture

LETTER IV. 

A Sabbath in New Orleans--The First Presbyterian Church--Expectoration--ANegro Pew--The Sermon

LETTER V. 

First Religious Service in America (continued)--A Collection "takenup"--Rush out--Evening Service--Sketch of the Sermon--Profanation ofthe Sabbath--The Monthly Concert for Prayer

LETTER VI. 

"Jack Jones"--A Public Meeting for Ireland--Henry Clay--OtherSpeakers--American Feeling in reference to the Irish Famine--ASlave-Auction

LETTER VII. 

The Slave-Auction (continued)--"A Fine Young Woman"--A Man and hisWife--Jim, the Blacksmith--A Family--A Ploughboy--Cornelia--AnotherJim--Tom, the House Boy--Edmund--Tom, and "his reserved rights"--ACarriage Driver--Margaret and her Child

LETTER VIII. 

St. Louis Exchange--Inspection of Human Chattels--ArtizanSlaves--Scenes and Proceedings of the Auction--Sale of the Men

LETTER IX. 

Sale of Women--Second Sabbath in New Orleans--Cricket in front of thePresbyterian "Church"--The Baptist "Church"--A Peep at an AmericanSabbath School--Proceedings in "Church"--A Sermon on "The NewBirth"--Nut-cracking during Sermon--"Close Communion"

LETTER X. 

Interview with a Baptist Minister--Conversation with a Young Man in theBaptist Church--The Presbyterian Church, and Dr. Scott again--A Peep atthe House of Representatives of Louisiana--Contrast between the Frenchand the Americans in the Treatment of their Slaves--Dinner Table in NewOrleans--American Manners

LETTER XI. 

Farewell to New Orleans--Revolting Bargain--"The Anglo Saxon"Steam-boat--Moderate Fare--Steam Navigation of the Mississippi--Steam-boat and Railway Literature--Parting View of the"Crescent City"--Slave Advertisements--Baton Rouge--A SugarEstate--Fellow-Passengers--The Ladies' Cabin--A Baptist Minister--AReverend Slave-holder

LETTER XII. 

Voyage up the Mississippi (continued)--"Patriarchal" Establishments--TheRed River--Elder Wright--Lynch Law administered by a Preacher--Natchez--Story of Mary Brown--The Flat Boats of the Mississippi

LETTER XIII. 

Voyage up the Mississippi (continued)--Grand Gulph and Big BlackRiver--Snags--"I belong to myself, Sir"--Vicksburg and Lynch Law--A ManOverboard--"Drove of Horses, Mules, and Niggers"--Character ofFellow-Passengers--The Sabbath--Disobedience to Conscience

LETTER XIV. 

Voyage up the Mississippi (continued)--The Arkansas--Treatment of theIndians--M de Tocqueville--"Napoleon" and Lynch Law--Memphis, and itsAdvertisements--A Scene witnessed there--The Ohio--Nashville, and AmosDresser

LETTER XV. 

Voyage up the Ohio (continued)--Illinois--Evansville--Owensborough--Indiana--New Albany--Louisville, and its Cruel Histories--The Grave ofPresident Harrison--Arrival in Cincinnati--First Impressions--TheCongregational Minister--A Welsh Service

LETTER XVI. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--Close of the Welsh Service--TheGovernor of Ohio and his Relatives--The "Black Laws"--Governor Bebb'sHostility to them--Dr. Weed and American Versatility--PrivateLodgings--Introduction to Dr. Beecher and others--A Peep at aDemocratic Meeting

LETTER XVII. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The Democratic Meeting--A Visit to LaneSeminary--"Public Declamation"--Poem on War--Essay on Education

LETTER XVIII. 

Visit to Lane Seminary (continued)--Dr. Beecher and his Gun--TheCollege Library--Dr. Stowe and his Hebrew Class--History of LaneSeminary--Qualifications for Admission--The Curriculum--ManualLabour--Expenses of Education--Results--Equality of Professors andStudents

LETTER XIX. 

A Sabbath at Cincinnati--The Second Presbyterian Church--Mutilation ofa Popular Hymn--The Rushing Habit--A wrong "Guess"--A GermanSunday-School--Visit to a Church of Coloured People--Engagement at theWelsh "Church"--Monthly Concert--The Medical College of Ohio--Tea atthe House of a Coloured Minister

LETTER XX. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The New Roman Catholic Cathedral--TheRev. C. B. Boynton and Congregationalism--"The Herald of a NewEra"--American Nationality

LETTER XXI. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The Orphan Asylum--A Coloured Man and aWhite Fop treated as each deserved--A Trip across to Covington--Mr. Gilmore and the School for Coloured Children--"The Fugitive Slave tothe Christian"--Sabbath--Mr. Boynton--Dr. Beecher--Lane Seminary--Departure from Cincinnati

LETTER XXII. 

Cincinnati--Its History and Progress--Its Trade and Commerce--ItsPeriodical Press--Its Church Accommodation--Its Future Prospects--Steaming up the Ohio--Contrast between Freedom and Slavery--AnIndian Mound--Splendid Scenery--Coal Hills

LETTER XXIII. 

Arrival at Pittsburg--Its Trade and Prospects--Temperance-Newspapers--Trip up the Monongahela to Brownsville--Staging by Night across theAlleghany Mountains--Arrival at Cumberland--The Railway Carriages ofAmerica

LETTER XXIV. 

Journey by Railroad from Cumberland to Baltimore--A Tedious Stoppage--ASabbath in Baltimore--Fruitless Inquiry--A Presbyterian Church and Dr. Plummer--Richmond and its Resolutions--Dr. Plummer's Pro-slaveryManifesto--The Methodist Episcopal Church

LETTER XXV. 

A Sabbath at Baltimore (continued)--A Coloured Congregation--TheThought of seeing Washington abandoned--Departure from Baltimore--Coloured Ladies in the Luggage-Van--American Railways--ChesapeakBay--Susquehannah--State of Delaware, and Abolition of Slavery--Philadelphia--Albert Barnes--Stephen Girard's Extraordinary Will

LETTER XXVI. 

Departure from Philadelphia--A Communicative Yankee--Trenton--TheMansion of Joseph Bonaparte--Scenes of Brainerd's Labours One HundredYears ago--First Impressions of New York--150, Nassau-street--PrivateLodgings--Literary Society--American Lodging houses--A Lecture onAstronomy--The "Negro Pew" in Dr. Patton's Church

LETTER XXVII. 

A Presbyterian Church in New York, and its Pastor--The Abbotts andtheir Institution--Union Theological Seminary--Dr. Skinner'sChurch--New York University--A threatening "Necessity"--Prejudiceagainst Colour--A Fact connected with Mr. ----'s Church--Another Factin Pennsylvania--State of Public Opinion in New York--An Interview withDr. Spring--A Missionary Meeting in Dr. Adams's Church

LETTER XXVIII

A Visit to Mount Vernon--Dr. Robinson--Welsh Deputation--Queen Anne andNew York--The Sabbath--Preaching at Dr. L----'s--Afternoon Service atMr. C----'s--Tea at Dr. L----'s--Evening Service at Mr. ----'s

LETTER XXIX. 

The Rev. Theodore Sedgwick Wright--His Testimony against Caste--HisFuneral--Drs Cox and Patton--The Service in the House--TheProcession--The Church--The Funeral Oration--Mrs. Wright

LETTER XXX. 

Trip to New Haven--Captain Stone and his Tender Feeling--Arrival in NewHaven. --A Call from Dr. Bacon and the Rev. Mr. Dutton--Newspapers--TheCentre Church and Standing Order--The North Church and JonathanEdwards, junior

LETTER XXXI. 

The Spot on which Whitfield preached--Judge Daggett--GovernorYale--Yale College--The Libraries--Elliot's Indian Bible--GeologicalMuseum--Dr. Goodrich--Education and Expenses at Yale College--TheGraves of the Regicides

LETTER XXXII. 

A Fast-Day--Political Sermons--A Church of Coloured People--TheSabbath--Morning Service--Afternoon ditto and Dr. Hawes--Prayers atCollege Chapel--United Service in North Church--The Cemetery--The"Fathers"--Professor Gibbs--Annual Election--Statistics--Arrival atHartford--Mr. Hosmer--Chief Justice--Deaf and Dumb--Charter Oak

LETTER XXXIII. 

The "Retreat"--Introductions to the Insane--Piety and Profanity--Service in the Fourth Church--Memorials of the Pilgrims--Dr. Bushnelland his Opinions--The Mother Church and its Burying-Ground--The NewCemetery--Prejudice against Colour--Mrs. Sigourney--Departure fromHartford--Worcester and Elihu Burritt--Boston--The Rev. Seth Bliss--TheCradle of Liberty--Mr. Garrison--Bunker's Hill

LETTER XXXIV. 

Boston (continued)--The Old South--Unitarianism, and Connection betweenChurch and State--A Welsh Service in an "Upper Room"--Laura Bridgmanand the Wedding Ring--Oliver Caswell--Departure from Boston--John Toddand his Family--His Congregationalism--Albany and the DelevanHouse--Journey to Utica--Remsen and the Welsh People--Dogs made tochurn, and Horses to saw Wood

LETTER XXXV. 

A Peep at the House of Representatives in Albany--"The Chan is but aMan, " &c. --Sailing down the Hudson--Dr. Spring--His MorningSermon--Afternoon Service--Gough the great Lecturer--The Tract Houseand Steam-presses--May-day in New York--Staten Island--Immigrants--Ahurried Glance

LETTER XXXVI. 

The May Meetings--Dr. Bushnell's Striking Sermon--Two Anti-SlaveryMeetings--A Black Demosthenes--Foreign Evangelical Society--A New Thingin the New World--The Home-Missionary Society--Progress and Prospectsof the West--Church of Rome--Departure from New York--What the Authorthinks of the Americans

LETTER XXXVII. 

What the Author thinks of the Americans (continued)--Slavery--Responsibility of the North--District of Columbia--Preponderanceof the Slave Power--Extermination of the Indians--President Taylorand his Blood-hounds

LETTER I. 

Occasion of Visit to the United States--First Impressions of theMississippi--Magnitude of that River--Impediment at its Entrance--TheNew Harbour--The "Great" and "Fat" Valley--High-Pressure Steam-TugFrolics--Slave-Auction Facetiae. 

The ill health of my wife, occasioned by long residence amid the sultryswamps of Guiana, compelled me a few months ago to accompany her on avisit to the United States of America. Having taken our passage in aship to New Orleans, we found ourselves in fifteen days on thefar-famed Mississippi, --the "father of waters. " On gazing around, ourfirst feeling was one of awe, to find ourselves actually ascending thatmajestic stream, that great artery of the greatest valley in the world, leading into the very heart of a continent. The weather was very cold;the trees on the river's bank were leafless; and the aspect of natureon every hand told it was winter. What a change! But a fortnight beforewe were panting under an almost vertical sun. We found the Mississippimuch narrower than we had anticipated. In some places it is only abouthalf a mile wide; while below New Orleans it never, I should say, exceeds a mile in width. This is remarkable, since not less thanfifty-seven large navigable rivers contribute to swell its waters. Itis, however, very deep, and, even at the distance of 500 miles aboveNew Orleans, is navigated by vessels of 300 tons; nay, at 1, 364 milesfrom its mouth, it attains an average depth of fifteen feet. In itscourse, it waters 2, 500 miles of country. Among the rivers that pourthemselves into this immense stream are--the Missouri, which has firsttraversed a space of 2, 000 miles; the Arkansas, 1, 300 miles; the RedRiver, 1, 000 miles; and the Ohio, 700 miles. 

Unfortunately, at the entrance of this noble river, there is a barcalled the Balize, so shallow as hitherto to have seriously interferedwith the navigation of large and deeply-laden vessels. Even for thecotton trade, a particular construction of ship has been found needful, with a flatter bottom than usual, in order to pass easily over thisbar, any effort to remove which the rapidity of the stream would renderfruitless. This circumstance, with the want of harbour at the mouth ofthe Mississippi, has hitherto operated greatly against the trade withNew Orleans, which is 110 miles up the river. Recently, however, amagnificent harbour has been discovered between Cat Island and IsleApitre, within Lake Borgne, and only ten miles from the coast of themainland. This new harbour, easily accessible from the sea, at alltimes contains a depth of water varying from thirty to fifty feet, andis so protected on all sides that vessels may ride with the greatestsafety in the worst weather. From this harbour to Bayou on the mainlandthe distance is only twelve miles, and from Bayou to New Orleansforty-six miles, --making altogether only fifty-eight miles from CatIsland Harbour to New Orleans; whereas, by the difficult and dangerousroute of the Mississippi, the distance is 110 miles. The importance andvalue of such a harbour it is difficult to over-estimate. Itsbeneficial effect on the future destiny of the great valley will beprodigious. 

I have said the "great valley, " and well it deserves the appellation. It contains as many square miles, with more tillable ground than thewhole continent of Europe. It measures about 1, 341, 649 square miles, and is therefore six times larger than France. And this valley is asrich as it is extensive. It is the "fat" valley. Never did human eyebehold a finer soil, or more luxuriant productions. The treasuresbeneath the surface are as precious as those above. The lead and coppermines are among the best in the world. Iron and coal also abound. Building materials, of beauty and strength, adapted to form cottagesfor the poor or palaces for the rich, are not wanting. Nature has herefurnished in lavish profusion everything necessary for converting thewilderness into smiling fields, studded with populous cities. 

But we are not yet within the great valley. We are only at itsentrance, sailing up the "father of waters, " against the stream, at therate of four or five miles an hour. It is usual for sailing-vessels tobe towed by steam-tugs to their destination; but, having a fair breeze, and no tug at hand, we were indebted to our sails alone. The motion wasexceedingly pleasant, after the tossings we had had in the Gulf ofMexico. The vessel glided smoothly along, and new objects presentedthemselves continually on either hand. 

My enjoyment of the scenery, however, was soon marred by an attack offever and ague, which sent me below. While I was down, severalsteam-tugs towing vessels down the river met us. Their unearthly groansfilled me with terror. Their noise was not that of puff--puff--puff--puff, like all the other steamers that I had everheard, but something composed of a groan, a grunt, and agrowl--deep-drawn, as from the very caverns of Vulcan, and that atawfully-solemn intervals, --grunt--grunt--grunt--grunt! Thispeculiarity, I was told, arose from their "high-pressure" engines. Thesound, thus explained, brought to my recollection all the dreadfulstories of boiler explosions with which the very name of theMississippi had become associated in my mind. But (thought I) they havesurely learned wisdom from experience, and are become more skilful ormore cautious than they used to be!

While I was engaged with these reflections, our captain came down, andhanded me a couple of New Orleans papers, which he had just receivedfrom the pilot. Here was a treat; and, feeling a little better, I beganwith eagerness to open one of them out. It was the _New Orleans Bee_ ofJanuary 23; and, _horresco referens_, the first thing that caught myeye was the following paragraph:--

"STEAM-BOAT EXPLOSION. --LOSS OF LIFE. --Captain Haviland, of thesteam-ship 'Galveston, ' from Galveston, reports that the tow-boat'Phoenix, ' Captain Crowell, burst her boilers when near the head of theSouth-west Pass [which we had but just passed], killing and woundingabout twenty-five in number, seven of whom belonged to the boat, the_balance_ to a barque she had alongside; carrying away the foremast ofthe barque close to her deck, and her mainmast above her cross-trees, together with all her fore-rigging, bulwarks, and injuring her hullconsiderably. The ship 'Manchester, ' which she had also alongside, wasseriously injured, having her bulwarks carried away, her longboatdestroyed, " &c. 

Such was the paragraph, with not a syllable of note or comment on causeor consequences. It was evidently an every-day occurrence. Whatrecklessness was here indicated! and how comforting to a sick andnervous man, now near the very spot of the occurrence, and in a vesselabout to be placed in the same pleasant relation to one of thosegrunting monsters as the unfortunate "barque" had but three days beforeoccupied, with the trifling "balance" of eighteen of her crew "killedand wounded!"

The fever having left me, I ventured on deck. At this moment one ofthese infernal machines came in sight, towing down three large ships. Instead of having them behind, as on the Thames and Mersey, she (likethe "Phoenix") had one on either side, closely lashed to herself, andthe other only behind. This terrific monster seemed to be carrying themaway arm-in-arm, like two prisoners, to destruction. At all events, itwas a position of familiarity and friendship with the "Sprite of Steam"of which I did not at all like the idea; and yet we ourselves wereby-and-by to be placed in its perilous embrace!

The dreaded monster gone by, I resumed the perusal of my New Orleanspapers. Now (thought I) I am in a slave country! I wonder whether thesepapers will give any indication of the fact. In a little while my eye, surveying the _Bee_ of January 21, caught sight of an advertisementsigned "N. St. Martin, Sheriff, Parish of St. Charles, " and containinga list of 112 human beings offered for sale! The miserable cataloguewas full of instruction. In drawing it up the humane sheriff becamequite facetious, telling the public that "Frank, 35 years old, Americannegro, [was] _good for everything_;" while "Stephen, 46 years old, [was] _fit for nothing at all_;" that "Salinette, 60 years old, hospital-nurse, [was] _a good subject, subject to rheumatisms_;" andthat "Peter, American negro-man, 38 years old, [was] _a good cook, having had two fits of madness_. " I will back this against the Dublin_Hue and Cry_. 

LETTER II. 

American Oysters--Becalmed in the Mississippi--Anchor raised--Shipashore--Taken off by a Steam-Tug--Slave-Sale Advertisements--RunawayNegroes--Return of Fever--Terrific Storm--Frightful Position--Ashore atNew Orleans--A Ship-Chandler's Store--American Wheels--AJoltification--The St. Charles's Hotel. 

The evening closed upon us, sailing pleasantly up the Mississippi. Having a beautiful moonlight night, we kept on our way. About seveno'clock we overtook a small fishing-boat laden with oysters. Inconsideration of our allowing them--not the oysters, but theboatmen--to fasten a rope to our vessel, to help them on, they gave usa generous and refreshing supply. But such oysters! In neither size norshape did they resemble those of the Old World. As to size, they weregigantic, --as to shape, not unlike the human foot. They abound not farfrom the mouth of the river, and many men obtain a livelihood bycarrying them up to the New Orleans market. The mode of cooking adoptedin this instance was that of putting them on the fire till the shellsopened. To our taste, they were not in flavour to be compared to theLondon oysters; but we did not venture to tell our American captain so. We had yet, however, to taste the deliciously-cooked oysters of thenorthern cities. 

About 10 p. M. , the breeze having in a great measure died away, ourcaptain thought it imprudent to attempt to "go a-head" further thatnight, and the anchor was cast. We were now fifty miles above theentrance of the river. 

Early next day the anchor was raised, the sails were unfurled, and weagain moved along. About 8 a. M. , through the narrowness of the river, the rapidity of the stream, and other causes, our "smart" captain, whohad chuckled vastly on passing all other ships in the river, --andespecially British ships, --ran his own vessel right ashore! There wewere in a complete "fix, " till one of the grunting monsters (coming upwith two vessels--one on each arm, as usual, --and letting them go for afew minutes, ) came to our rescue. Forbidding as was his aspect, we werevery glad to feel a little of his giant power. Of this one I had, ofcourse, a better view than I had had of any other of the species. Ithad, like the rest, two chimneys in front, like perpendicular tusks, with a ladder between them. The ladder was for the purpose ofascent, --the ascent for the purpose of elevation, --and the elevationfor the purpose of "look out. " The top of the ladder, in short, rendered the same service as the top of a ship's mast at sea. This"tug" had also, a little further aft, a funnel-like sort of chimney, for the emission of steam. The whole structure was--like a forge below, and a palace above. In the lower story were the boiler, engine, fuel, &c. , all exposed to view; while, the upper contained splendidapartments for the captain, the engineer, and other officers. Theengineer of that vessel, I understood, had a salary of 250 dollars (50guineas) per month!

Released from our stranded position, we found ourselves in a fewminutes lashed to the monster's side, and completely in his power. Herewe were, in the same dread position in which the day before we felthorrified to see others! From some of the officers, our captainobtained another newspaper. It was the _New Orleans Daily Picayune_ forJanuary 26. Getting hold of it, I found whole columns of slave-saleadvertisements. A few specimens will illustrate better than anydescription the state of things in this "land of liberty!"

"NEGROES FOR SALE. --The subscribers No. 56, Esplanade-street, have justreceived a lot of valuable Slaves from Virginia and Maryland, consisting of Mechanics, Farm Hands, and House Servants, and have made_arrangements not to be surpassed_ in this market for a _regularsupply_ from the above markets, as also Alabama. We hazard nothing insaying, if our former friends, and others wishing to purchase goodservants or hands, will give us a call, they shall not be disappointed. 

"N. B. All Negroes sold by the undersigned are fully guaranteed. 

"SLATTER & LOCKETT, "56, Esplanade-street. "

"n11--6m. "

"FOR SALE. --A likely Mulatto Negress, aged twenty-two years, --she is afirst-rate cook, and a good washer and ironer, besides being atolerable good seamstress. 

"ANDERSON & BURNET, "38, Camp-street. "

"J26. "

"SLAVES FOR SALE. --I have just received, and offer for sale, a verylikely lot of Virginia Negroes. Those wishing to purchase will do wellto give me a call at my office, No. 157, Gravier-street, betweenCarondelet and Baronne streets. I will be _constantly receiving_Negroes from Virginia and North Carolina during the winter. 

"C. M. RUTHERFORD. "

"n13--6m. "

"SLAVES FOR SALE. --No. 165, Gravier-street. --The subscriber has alwayson hand a number of Slaves, consisting of House Servants, Field Hands, and Mechanics, which will be sold low for cash or negotiable paper. Persons desirous of purchasing will find it to their interest to calland examine. The subscriber will also receive and sell on consignmentany Negro that may be intrusted to his care. 

"He would also respectfully notify persons engaged in the Slave Trade, that he is prepared to board them and their Slaves on the mostreasonable terms. 

"WM. H. MERRITT. "

"o1--6m. "

"References--J. A. Barelli, C. J. Mansoni. "

"ONE HUNDRED NEGROES. --For Sale at No. 13, Moreau-street. --All of whichhave just been received from Maryland and Virginia. My old friends, andothers wishing to purchase Slaves, will find it to their interest tocall on me before purchasing elsewhere. Also will receive _largeshipments during the season_ from the above States. 

"R. R. BEASLEY, "13, Moreau-street. "

"d31--3m. "

Runaway slaves seem to be constantly advertised, with (as in the caseof ship advertisements) a small woodcut figure representing them in thevery act of making their escape. Indeed, almost everything advertisedis accompanied by its picture, --ships, houses, bonnets, boots, leeches, oysters, and so forth. Even a strayed horse or a strayed cow isadvertised with a picture representing the animal in the very act ofgoing astray. On the same principle, and in like manner, human chattelsassuming their natural right to go where they please, are advertisedwith a woodcut representing them as bending forward in the act ofrunning, and carrying with them a small bundle containing their scantywardrobe, --a pitiable figure! And yet this is done, not to awakensympathy, but to excite vigilance, as in the following instances, whichI have picked out of the _Picayune_:--

"ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS REWARD. --The aforesaid sum will be given to anyperson who will bring back to the undersigned the negro-girl Eugenia, and her mulatto child aged two years. Said slave has been purloined orenticed away by her former owner, Madame Widow Decaux, who secretlywent out of this State on the 12th December, 1846. Said Widow Decaux iswell known in New Orleans as a notorious swindler, having beenprosecuted for having pawned logs of wood to a merchant of this cityinstead of dry goods. She has a scar on her forehead, and severalothers on her neck, and is accompanied by her aged mother, and her boyaged ten years. 

"J. B. DUPEIRE. "

"j7--15t*. "

"Ran away from the subscriber, on the 20th November last, a negro mannamed Sandy, about twenty-five years of age, five feet five incheshigh, very dark complexion, speaks both French and English, _shows themark of the whip very much_. A liberal reward will be paid for hisapprehension, either by confining in any gaol, so that I can securehim, or his delivery to me at Plaquemine, La. 

"W. H. CARR. "

"J20--3tW. "

And yet the editor of this very paper, in his leading article, reviewing the past, (that day being the tenth anniversary of its ownexistence, ) coolly says, "In entering upon our eleventh anniversary, how different the spectacle! Industry in every quarter of the landreceives its meet reward; Commerce is remunerated by wholesome gains;_Comfort blesses the toil of the labourer_(!) and Hope encourages theenterprise of all the industrial classes of our citizens. "

As the day advanced, my fever returned; and I was obliged to go below. A furious tempest arose, so that even our "monster" could scarcely getalong. The lightning flashed, the thunder roared, and the rain fell intorrents. It was a terrific day! As night approached, our captain toldus the vessel could not then be got any further, --it was about twomiles from the city; and if we particularly wished to go ashore, wemust get ready directly, and go with him in the steam-tug. Anxious fora good night's rest, on shore we resolved to go. I had to turn out inthat state of profuse perspiration which always succeeds the fever, andmy wife hurriedly selected a few necessary things. Poor thing! she wasalmost overwhelmed with the trying circumstances in which she wasplaced, --thousands of miles from home--about to enter a place in whichshe knew not a single soul--her husband ill, and herself an invalid!But there was no help for it. Amidst torrents of rain, we made thefearful transition from the ship to the tug, while both vessels were inviolent agitation. It was done. And now we were in the "monster's" ownbosom, expecting every moment his bowels to burst, and send us intoeternity. The noise of the engine, the grunting of the steam, theraging of the wind, the pelting of the rain, and the roaring of thethunder, made it almost impossible to hear anything besides; but Imanaged to shout in my wife's ear the natural, though not veryconsolatory question, "Were we ever in so fearful a position before?""Never!" (and we had had some experience of storms by both land andsea) was her awe-stricken reply. 

We detached ourselves from the sailing-vessel; but, with all the powerof steam, we could scarcely get along. At last the "monster's"bellowing was hushed, --the tremor ceased, --we were there! But how toget ashore was still a difficulty. It was about 100 yards off. Planks, however, were eventually placed so as to enable us to descend from ourlofty "tug" into a ship at anchor, from that into another, from thatagain into a third, and from that at length on _terra firma_. 

The hour was between 7 and 8 p. M. ; and we were taken to aship-chandler's store, while our kind captain went to get a chaise forus. The store was closed; but the owner and three other gentlemen werethere, seated before a comfortable coal fire, apparently enjoyingthemselves after the business of the day. They received us verycourteously, and gave us chairs by the fireside. The storm of that daythey told us had done much harm to the shipping, and was severer thanany other they had experienced during the last seven years. While theconversation was going on, _plash_ made one, _plash_ made another, _plash_ made a third, by spurting a certain brownish secretion on thefloor! I had often heard of this as an American habit, but alwaysthought our cousins in this matter (as in many others) werecaricatured. Here, however, was the actual fact, and that in thepresence of a lady! Yet these were apparently very respectable men. 

Having waited about a quarter of an hour, anxiously listening for therumbling of the expected wheels, I heard in the distance a strange kindof noise, resembling that of a fire-shovel, a pair of tongs, a poker, and an iron hoop tied loosely together with a string, and drawn overthe pavement! "What in the world is that?" said I. "It is the chaise, "was the answer. The vehicle was quickly at the door. In we werebundled, and orders given to drive us to the "St. Charles's. " Wescarcely knew what this "St. Charles's" was; but, as all with whom wehad conversed seemed to take it for granted that we should go thither, and as any one _saint_ was to us as good as any other, we echoed, "Tothe St. Charles's. " And now began such a course of jolting as we hadnever before experienced. It seemed as if all the gutters andsplash-holes in the universe had been collected together, and we had todrive over the whole. This continued about half an hour, by which welearned that we were at first much further from the "St. Charles's"than we supposed. The machine at last stopped, and we alighted, thankful to have escaped a complete stoppage of our breath. 

We were there. A waiter (he was not to be mistaken, --he bore a familyresemblance to all the waiters of the world) was instantly at thecoach-door, to help us _out_ and to help us _in_. He conducted us intoa lobby, up a flight of stairs, and through a long passage, to a largesaloon, where about 150 ladies and gentlemen were assembled, --somesitting, some standing, some talking, some laughing, and some playingwith their fingers. But, no! we shrunk back. Thither we would not beled, all wet and dirty as we were. We begged to be shown into a privateroom. The waiter stared, and said he had none to take us to, except Iwould first go to the "office. " But what was to become of myfellow-traveller in the meantime? No woman belonging to theestablishment made her appearance, and there my wife was obliged tostand alone in the passage, whilst I followed the waiter through aislesand passages, and turnings and twistings, and ups and downs, to a largesaloon, where about 200 gentlemen were smoking cigars! What a sight!and what a smell! Who can realize the vast idea of 200 mouths, in oneroom, pouring forth the fumes of tobacco? I was directed to thehigh-priest of the establishment in the "office, " or (as I should say)at the "bar. " Without verbally replying to my application, he handed mea book in which to record my name. Having obeyed the hint, I againasked my taciturn host if myself and wife could be accommodated. Hethen, with manifest reluctance, took the cigar out of his mouth, andsaid he had only one room to spare, and that was at the top of thehouse. It was "Hobson's choice, " and I accepted it. And now for ajourney! Talk of ascending the Monument on Fish-street Hill! what isthat compared to ascending the St. Charles's, at New Orleans? No. 181was reached at last. The next task was to find my wife, which afteranother long and circuitous journey was accomplished. In process oftime fire was made, and "tea for two" brought up. Let me, therefore, close my letter and enjoy it. 

LETTER III. 

New Orleans--The Story of Pauline--Adieu to the St. Charles's--Description of that Establishment--First Sight of Slaves forSale--Texts for Southern Divines--Perilous Picture. 

From No. 181 of the "St. Charles's, " we descended, after a good night'srest, to see some of the lions of the place. Here we are (thought I) inNew Orleans--the metropolis of a great slave country, --a town in whichexist many depôts for the disposal of human beings, --the very citywhere, a few months ago, poor Pauline was sacrificed as the victim oflust and cruelty! Unhappy girl! What a tragedy! On the 1st of Augustlast, I told the horrid tale to my emancipated people in Berbice. Hereit is, as extracted from the _Essex_ (United States) _Transcript_. Readit, if you please; and then you will have a notion of the feelings withwhich I contemplated a city rendered infamous by such a transaction. 

"Many of our readers have probably seen a paragraph stating that ayoung slave girl was recently hanged at New Orleans for the crime ofstriking and abusing her mistress. The religious press of the north hasnot, so far as we are aware, made any comments upon this execution. Itis too busy pulling the mote out of the eye of the heathen, to noticethe beam in our nominal Christianity at home. Yet this case, viewed inall its aspects, is an atrocity which has (God be thanked) no parallelin heathen lands. It is a hideous offshoot of American Republicanismand American Christianity! It seems that Pauline--a young and beautifulgirl--attracted the admiration of her master, and being (to use thewords of the law) his "chattel personal to all intents and purposeswhatsoever, " became the victim of his lust. So wretched is thecondition of the slave woman, that even the brutal and licentiousregard of her master is looked upon as the highest exaltation of whichher lot is susceptible. The slave girl in this instance evidently soregarded it; and as a natural consequence, in her new condition, triumphed over and insulted her mistress, --in other words, repaid insome degree the scorn and abuse with which her mistress had made herpainfully familiar. The laws of the Christian State of Mississippiinflict the punishment of death upon the slave who lifts his or herhand against a white person. Pauline was accused of beating hermistress, --tried, found guilty, and condemned to die! But it wasdiscovered on the trial that she was in a condition to become a mother, and her execution was delayed until the birth of the child. She wasconveyed to the prison cell. There, for many weary months, uncheered bythe voice of kindness, alone, hopeless, desolate, she waited for theadvent of the new and quickening life within her, which was to be thesignal of her own miserable death. And the bells there called to massand prayer-meeting, and Methodists sang, and Baptists immersed, andPresbyterians sprinkled, and young mothers smiled through tears upontheir new-born children, --and maidens and matrons of that great citysat in their cool verandahs, and talked of love, and household joys, and domestic happiness; while, all that dreary time, the poor slavegirl lay on the scanty straw of her dungeon, waiting--with what agonythe great and pitying God of the white and black only knows--for thebirth of the child of her adulterous master. Horrible! Was ever whatGeorge Sand justly terms 'the great martyrdom of maternity'--thatfearful trial which love alone converts into joy unspeakable--enduredunder such conditions? What was her substitute for the kind voices andgentle soothings of affection? The harsh grating of her prisonlock, --the mockings and taunts of unfeeling and brutal keepers! What, with the poor Pauline, took the place of the hopes and joyfulanticipations which support and solace the white mother, and make hercouch of torture happy with sweet dreams? The prospect of seeing thechild of her sorrow, of feeling its lips upon her bosom, of hearing itsfeeble cry--alone, unvisited of its unnatural father; and then in a fewdays--just when the mother's affections are strongest, and the firstsmile of her infant compensates for the pangs of the past--the scaffoldand the hangman! Think of the last terrible scene, --the tearing of theinfant from her arms, the death-march to the gallows, the rope aroundher delicate neck, and her long and dreadful struggles, (for, attenuated and worn by physical suffering and mental sorrow, her slightframe had not sufficient weight left to produce the dislocation of herneck on the falling of the drop, ) swinging there alive for nearly halfan hour--a spectacle for fiends in the shape of humanity! Mothers ofNew England! such are the fruits of slavery. Oh! in the name of theblessed God, teach your children to hate it, and to pity its victims. Petty politicians and empty-headed Congress debators are vastlyconcerned, lest the 'honour of the country' should be compromised inthe matter of the Oregon Boundary. Fools! One such horrible atrocity asthis murder of poor Pauline 'compromises' us too deeply to warrant anyfurther display of their patriotism. It would compromise Paradiseitself! An intelligent and philanthropic European gentleman, who was inNew Orleans at the time of the execution, in a letter to a friend inthis vicinity, after detailing the circumstances of the revoltingaffair, exclaims, 'God of goodness! God of justice! There must be afuture state to redress the wrongs of this. I am almost tempted tosay--there must be a future state, or no God!'"

On Saturday, the 30th, we set off to seek private lodgings. Led by aboard having on it in large letters the words "Private Boarding, " we"inquired within, " found what we wanted, and engaged for eight dollarsper week each. We then went to pay our bill at the "St. Charles's, " andto bring away our carpet-bag. We had been there two nights, had had onedinner, two teas, and two breakfasts. These meals, as we did not liketo join the hundreds at the "ordinary, " were served to us (in a very_ordinary_ way however) in our bedroom. In fact, the waiting wasmiserably done. And yet for this we had the pleasure of paying elevendollars, --say _£2. 6s. _! We gladly bade adieu to the "St. Charles's. "It suited neither our taste nor our pocket. Nevertheless, it is amagnificent concern. The edifice was finished in 1838 by a company, andcost 600, 000 dollars. The gentlemen's dining-room is 129 feet by 50, and is 22 feet high; having four ranges of tables, capable ofaccommodating 500 persons. The ladies' dining-room is 52 feet by 36. The house contains 350 rooms, furnishing accommodation for between 600and 700 guests; and it was quite full when we were there. The front isadorned with a projecting portico, supported by six fine Corinthiancolumns, resting upon a rustic basement. The edifice is crowned with alarge dome, forty-six feet in diameter, having a beautiful Corinthianturret on the top. This dome is the most conspicuous object in thecity. Viewed from a distance, it seems to stand in the same relation toNew Orleans as St. Paul's to London. The furniture of this immenseestablishment cost 150, 000 dollars. A steam-engine, producing a verydisagreeable tremor, is constantly at work in the culinary department. 

While on our way to get the remainder of our baggage from the ship, wecame upon a street in which a long row, or rather several rows, ofblack and coloured people were exposed in the open air (and under asmiling sun) for sale! There must have been from 70 to 100, all youngpeople, varying from 15 to 30 years of age. All (both men and women)were well dressed, to set them off to the best advantage, as is alwaysthe case at these sales. Several of the coloured girls--evidently thedaughters of white men--had their sewing-work with them, as evidence oftheir skill in that department. The whole were arranged under a kind ofverandah, having a foot-bench (about six inches high) to stand upon, and their backs resting against the wall. None were in any way tied orchained; but two white men ("soul-drivers, " I suppose) were saunteringabout in front of them, each with a cigar in his mouth, a whip underhis arm, and his hands in his pockets, looking out for purchasers. Inits external aspect, the exhibition was not altogether unlike what Ihave sometimes seen in England, when some wandering Italian has rangedagainst a wall his bronzed figures of distinguished men, --Shakspeare, Napoleon, Wellington, Nelson, &c. It was between twelve and one in theday; but there was no crowd, not even a single boy or girl lookingon, --so common and every-day was the character of the scene. As wemoved along in front of this sable row, one of the white attendants(though my wife had hold of my arm) said to me, with all the_nonchalance_ of a Smithfield cattle-drover, "Looking out for a fewniggers this morning?" Never did I feel my manhood so insulted. Myindignation burned for expression. But I endeavoured to affectindifference, and answered in a don't-care sort of tone, "No, I am notparticularly in want of any to-da--. " I could scarcely finish thesentence. Emotion choked my utterance. I passed on, gazing at the troopof degraded human beings, till my eyes became so filled with tears thatI was compelled to turn my face another way. Though I anticipated suchscenes, and had tried to prepare my mind for them, yet (now that theywere actually before me) I was completely overcome, and was obliged toseek a place to sit down while I composed my feelings. With whatsentiments my companion beheld the scene, I will leave you toconjecture!

It was Saturday morning; and with my professional habits, I naturallythought of the many divines in that very city, who were at that momentshut up in their studies, preparing their discourses for the morrow. Iwished I had them all before me. I could have given every one of them atext to preach upon. I would have said, "Gentlemen, see there! andblush for your fellow-citizens. See there! and never again talk ofAmerican liberty. See there! and lift up your voices like so manytrumpets against this enormity. See there! and in the face ofpersecution, poverty, imprisonment, and (if needs be) even deathitself, bear your faithful testimony, and cease not until this foulstain be wiped away from your national escutcheon. Dr. S----, to-morrowmorning let this be your text, --'Where is Abel, thy brother?' Dr. II----, let your discourse be founded on Exod. Xxi. 16: 'And he thatstealeth a man, and selleth him, or if he be found in his hand, heshall surely be put to death. ' You, the Rev. Mr. C----, let your gayand wealthy congregation be edified with a solemn and impressive sermonon Is. Lviii. 6: 'Is not this the fast that I have chosen? to loose thebands of wickedness, to undo the heavy burdens, and to let theoppressed go free, and that ye break every yoke?' And you, the Rev. Mr. H----, let your hearers have a full and faithful exposition of that lawwhich is 'fulfilled in one word, even in this, Thou shalt love thyneighbour as thyself. '"

In the afternoon of the same day, as I walked along one of theprincipal streets, I saw a flag issue from a fine large public buildingto invite "ladies and gentlemen" to see "the magnificent picture of thedeparture of the Israelites from Egypt, "--the canvas containing 2, 000square feet, and 2, 000, 000 of figures! How significant! It would havebeen still more so, if the number of "figures" had been 3, 000, 000instead of 2, 000, 000. What an "abolition" picture! It must have beenworse than "Jacob and his Sons, " which was expunged from a catalogue ofthe American Sunday-School Union, because, in reprehending the sale ofJoseph to the merchants, it reflected upon the _internal_ slave-trade!Surely such exhibitions will affect the safety of the "peculiarinstitution!"

LETTER IV. 

A Sabbath in New Orleans--The First Presbyterian Church--Expectoration--A Negro Pew--The Sermon. 

Think of a Sabbath in New Orleans! Curious to know how people didreally pray and preach, with slavery and slave-trading in their vilestforms around them, I set off in search of the "First PresbyterianChurch. " It is a beautiful building; seldom, if ever, had I seen aplace of worship the exterior of which I liked so much. Being a quarterof an hour too soon, I had opportunity for some preliminary researches. Wishing to see whether there was a "Negro Pew, " I went into thegallery, and took a seat on the left side of the organ. The "church" Ifound as beautiful inside as out. Instead of a pulpit, there was a kindof platform lined with crimson, which looked very nice. Most of thepews below, and some above, were lined with the same material. Asplendid chandelier, having many circles of glass brilliants, wassuspended from the ceiling. Altogether, the "church" was a very neatand graceful structure, --capable, as I learned, of accommodating about1, 500 people. But the floor--the floor! What a drawback! It was stainedall over with tobacco juice! Faugh! Those Southern men are the mostfilthy people in that respect I ever met with. They are a great"spitting" community. To make it still more revolting to lucklesstravellers, this nasty habit is generally attended with noises in thethroat resembling the united growling of a dozen mastiffs. 

While the congregation was assembling, a greyheaded, aristocratic-looking old negro came up into the gallery, walked along"as one having authority, " and placed himself in a front pew on theright-hand side of the pulpit. Two black women shortly followed, takingtheir seats in the same region. Others succeeded, till ultimately therewere from forty to fifty of the sable race in that part of the gallery. Not one white was to be seen among the blacks, nor one black among thewhites. There, then, was the "Negro Pew!" It was the first time even myWest India eyes ever beheld a distinction of colour maintained in thehouse of God!

At eleven o'clock precisely, a man of tall but stooping figure and darkcomplexion, about forty years of age, muffled up in a cloak, took hisstand at the bottom of the pulpit or platform stairs. It was Dr. S----. He appeared to beckon to some one in the congregation. A tall, lank oldgentleman, with a black cravat, and shirt-collar turned over it _àl'Américain_, stepped forward, and, ascending the steps before theDoctor, occupied one of the two chairs with which the rostrum wasfurnished, the Doctor taking the other. I supposed him to be one of theelders, going to give out the hymns, or to assist in the devotionalexercises. At this moment the organ--a fine-toned instrument--struckup, and the choir sang some piece--known, I presume, only tothemselves, for no others joined in it. This prelude I have since foundis universal in America. In all places of worship provided with anorgan, a "voluntary" on that instrument is the first exercise. In thepresent instance the choir had no sooner ceased than the Doctor stoodup, having his cloak still resting upon his shoulders, and stretchedforth his right hand. At this signal all the people stood up, and heoffered a short prayer. "Where is Abel, thy brother?" thought I, duringthis address to the Father of the spirits of all flesh. He then readthe 23rd and 24th Psalms. "Where is Abel, thy brother?" was stillringing in my ears. The 33rd Psalm was then sung. "Where is Abel, thybrother?" was still heard (by me at least) louder than the swellingtones of the organ. The singing done, of which the choir still had anentire monopoly, the Doctor read the 14th chapter of Mark; and as heread the awful story of our Lord's betrayal, I could not help thinkingthat the only difference between some of the Southern slave-dealers andJudas was, that had they been in his place, they would have made a"smarter" bargain. The reading, though free from affectation, was notby any means in the best style. The chapter finished, the tall elder(as I took him to be) prayed, --the congregation standing. The prayerwas short and appropriate, and the language tolerably correct; but thetone and pronunciation were queer. I supposed them to indicate someprovincialism with which I was not acquainted. Along with that peculiarnasal sound for which nearly all Americans are distinguished, there wasin the voice a mixture of coaxing and familiarity which was a littleoffensive; still, as a "layman's" exercise, it was very good. He prayedfor "every grace and Christian virtue. " Amen, ejaculated I, --then yourslaves will soon be free. He prayed for "our nation and rulers. " Heprayed that "the great blessings of Civil and Religious Liberty whichwe enjoy may be handed down to future generations. " "Looking out for afew niggers this morning?" thought I. He also prayed for "the army andnavy, and our fellow-citizens now on the field of battle, " in allusionto the Mexican War. --The prayer ended, Dr. S---- gave out another hymn. During the whole of the service, I may here remark, there was a gooddeal of going in and out, talking, whispering, spitting, gutturalturbulence, &c. At first there were about a dozen white boys in myneighbourhood, who seemed as if they belonged to the Sabbath-school;but, having no teacher to look after them, and enjoying the full swingof liberty, they had before sermon all disappeared. 

After the singing, Dr. S---- made several announcements, --amongstothers, that the monthly concert to pray for the success of ForeignMissions would be held there to-morrow evening, when several speakerswould address the meeting. By all means (said I to myself), and I'lltry to be present. He also told his people that the Rev. ----. ------, (from some place in Kentucky, --the particulars I did not catch, ) wasin the city, as a deputation from the ladies, to solicit subscriptionsfor the erection of a new church that was greatly needed. 

The tall man in the black neckcloth then rose, and, to my surprise anddisappointment, read a text. It was I Cor. Iii. 21: "For all things areyours. " I imagine _he_ was the deputation from the Kentuckian ladies. 

After a few introductory remarks explanatory of the context, heproposed to inquire what are the things which "enter into"("constitute, " we should say) the inheritance of God's people. Slaves(said I to myself) are a part of the inheritance of "God's people, "both here and in Kentucky: I wonder if he will notice that. 

The first thing, I observe (said he), that enters into the inheritanceof God's people, is the living ministry--"Paul, or Apollos, or Cephas. "To illustrate the value of this blessing, he referred to the imaginaryElixir of Life, the Philosopher's Stone, and the Universal Panacea. Ifsuch things really existed, what a high value would men set upon them!But here was something of incomparably higher worth. In order to forman estimate of its value, he led his hearers to imagine the entire lossof the living ministry. Secondly, the "world" belongs to God's people. It is sustained for their sake, and therefore sinners are indebted toGod's people for the preservation of their lives. To prove this hereferred to the words of our Lord, "Ye are the salt of the earth. " Inspeaking of the preserving nature of salt, he supposed the sea to bewithout salt. 

How pestilential then! But as it is, how salubrious the air that hasswept over it! He also referred to another case. There was once (saidhe) a ship in a tremendous storm; the crew and passengers--about 270 innumber--were at their wits' end; nothing appeared before them but awatery grave. On board of that ship was a poor prisoner, bound inchains. He was deemed to be of the filth of the world, and theoff-scouring of all things. To that poor prisoner the angel of the Lordcame, and told him what must be done to save the life of every one onboard. The angel's directions were obeyed, and all were preserved. Thus, for the sake of one of God's people, were 270 lives spared. Heoffered another illustration. Three men came to converse with Abraham, on the plains of Mamre. They told him that God was about to destroyfive cities. Abraham began to intercede for them. The preacherrecapitulated the wondrous story of this intercession and its success, as further proving that ungodly men owe the preservation of their livesto the presence and prayers of the people of God. The parable of thetares was also cited, as illustrating the same position. "Let both growtogether until the harvest. " Imagine (said he) all the people of Godremoved from the face of the earth--no heart to love Him--no tongue topraise Him, --there would be no reason why the earth should be continuedin existence another moment. In the light of this subject, see howgreat a privilege it is to have pious relatives. "Life" also was, inthe third place, a part of the inheritance of the child of God, becauseduring it he makes a provision for eternity. He dwelt on the richnessof the treasure which God's people are laying up. Suppose (said he) anyof you were making money at the rate of fifty dollars an hour, --(I daresay you do so sometimes, reflected I, when you get a good price foryour "niggers, ")--how rich you would soon be! and how anxious that nota single hour should be lost! But the child of God is laying uptreasure at a faster rate than this. Every time he works for God, he islaying it up. The Christian's treasure is also of the right kind, andlaid up in the right place. If any of you were going to emigrate toanother country, you would be anxious to know what sort of money wascurrent in that country, and to get yours changed into it. TheChristian's treasure is the current coin of eternity. It is also in theright place. Where would you like to have your treasure? Why, at home. The Christian's treasure is at home--in his Father's house. Life is hisalso, because during it he fights the battles of the Lord. Here thepreacher made an approving reference to the war against the Mexicans;and I strongly suspect that this view of the Christian's inheritancewas dragged in for the very purpose. We fight (said he) under the eyeof the General. We fight with a certainty of victory. Death too was, inthe fourth place, a portion of the Christian's inheritance. To thepeople of God curses are made blessings, and to those who are not hispeople blessings are made curses. So sickness, persecution, and deathare made blessings to the saints. Death to the Christian is like anhonourable discharge to the soldier after the toil and the danger ofthe field of strife. But that illustration (said he) is too feeble: Iwill give you another. Imagine, on a bleak and dreary mountain, thehumble dwelling of two old people. They are bending under the weight ofyears. Amidst destitution and want, they are tottering on the verge ofthe grave. A messenger comes, and tells them of a relative who hasdied, and left them a large inheritance, --one by which every want willbe supplied, and every desire realized, --one that will, the moment theytouch it with the soles of their feet, make them young again: hepoints, moreover, to the very chariot that is to convey them thither. Would this be bad news to those old people? Now, such is death to thechild of God. The cord is cut, and the spirit takes its flight to theabodes of the blest. Or take another illustration. A stage-coach wasonce upset. Many of the passengers were in great danger. One mansnatched a little babe from among the wheels, and laid it down in aplace of safety on the roadside. Twenty years after the same man wastravelling in a stage, on the same road, and telling those around himabout the accident which had taken place a long time before. A younglady, sitting opposite, was listening to the narrative with eagerinterest, and at last she burst out with rapture, "Is it possible thatI have at last found my deliverer? I was that little babe you rescued!"Something like this will be the disclosures that death will make. Having thus illustrated the inheritance of the people of God, let meask you (said he) who are not his people--what will all these things beto you, if you die without Christ? The living ministry? The world?Life? Death? Having spoken briefly, with power and pathos, on each ofthese particulars, he very coolly and deliberately turned to Rev. Xxii. 17, and read, "The Spirit and the Bride say, Come; and let him thatheareth say, Come, " &c. , &c. , and closed abruptly, with neither an Amennor an invocation of any kind. 

Such was the first sermon I heard in the United States. It wasthoroughly evangelical and good; but I listened to it with mingledfeelings. It was painful to think that such a ministry could co-existwith slavery. The creed it is evident may be evangelical, while thereis a woful neglect of the duties of practical piety. 

LETTER V. 

First Religious Service in America (continued)--A Collection "takenup"--Rush out--Evening Service--Sketch of the Sermon--Profanation ofthe Sabbath--The Monthly Concert for Prayer. 

After sermon Dr. S. Gave out a hymn, and told the congregation that thecollection for the support of the "beneficiaries" of that church wouldbe "taken up" that morning; adding that, in consequence of thiscollection not having been made at the usual time (in May last), someof the young men who were preparing for the ministry, and dependent onthat congregation for food and clothing, were now in great want. Healso suggested that, if any present were unprepared with money, theymight put in a slip of paper, with their name, address, and the amountof their contribution, and some one would call upon them. 

The collection was "taken up" during the singing, At the last verse thecongregation stood up. The benediction was pronounced, withoutstretched arm, by the Doctor; and the moment he uttered the "Amen!"all rushed out of the place as fast as they could. This rushing is acharacteristic of the Americans. It is seen in their approach to thedining-table, as well as in a hundred other instances. I suppose it iswhat they call being "smart, " and "going a-head. "

In the evening I went again to the same "church. " The introductory partwas shorter and more simple than in the morning. The Doctor's prayer(seven or eight minutes long) was admirable. I wished some dry, prosypetitioners in England could have heard it. It was devout, comprehensive, and to the point. All classes of men--but one--wereremembered in it. The slaves were not mentioned, --their freedom was notprayed for!

The Doctor gave us to understand that he was about to deliver the fifthof a series of lectures to young men in great cities. The text was, "The Sabbath was made for man, and not man for the Sabbath;" thesubject, "The importance of the Sabbath to young men in great cities. "

The text (he observed) involved the principle, that man was not made toobserve certain ceremonies and obey certain precepts, but that theobservance of rites and laws was enjoined for man's own sake. Thisprinciple applied to the institution of the Sabbath. The body, theintellect, the affections--all required the rest which the Sabbathaffords. The experiment had been abundantly tried; and it had beeninvariably found that more could be done, in every department oflabour, with the regular observance of the Sabbath as a day of restthan without it. The farmer, the student, the legislator, had all triedit. Man could no more do without the Sabbath than he could do withoutsleep. Writers on slavery, however they differed on other points, wereall agreed on this, --that the withholding of the Sabbath from theslaves in the West Indies, together with the other cruelties inflictedupon them, had materially shortened their lives! (How telescopic, bythe way, are our views with regard to evils at a distance! West Indiaslavery never wore the hideous features which slavery presents in theSouthern States of America. Slavery even in Cuba, with all its horrors, is far milder than in the United States. ) France once presented afearful example of what a nation would be without a Sabbath. Thetestimonies of Drs. Spurzheim and Rush were cited in confirmation; alsothat of a respectable merchant in New York, well known to the preacher, who, after the observation and experience of twenty-five years in thatcity, declared that of those who kept their counting-houses open on theSabbath not one had escaped insolvency. A poor boy was apprenticed toan apothecary in a large city. To increase his wages and encourage hisefforts, his master gave him a recipe and materials for making blackingon his own account. The blacking was made, and placed in pots in theshop window; but day after day passed, and no purchaser appeared. OneSunday morning, while the shop was open for medicine, before the hourof public service, a person came in, and asked for a pot of blacking. The boy was in the very act of stretching out his hand to reach it, when he reflected it was the Lord's-day. Falteringly, he told thecustomer it was the Sabbath, and he could not do it. After this the boywent to church. The Tempter there teased him about his folly in losinga customer for his blacking: the boy held in reply that he had doneright, and, were the case to occur again, he would do just the same. OnMonday morning, as soon as he had taken down the shutters, a personcame in, and bought every pot of blacking there was; and the boy foundthat, after deducting the cost of materials, he had cleared one dollar. With more faith and fortitude than some of you possess (said thepreacher), he went and took that dollar--the first he had everearned--to the Bible Society. That poor boy is still living, and is nowa wealthy man. 

The preacher said he knew a man, in his own native State of Tennessee, who on his arrival in America had nothing but a pocket Bible; but hemade two resolutions, --1st. That he would honour the Sabbath; 2nd. Thathe would remember his mother. The first dollar he got he sent to her, and declared that he would never forget the Sabbath and his mother. Healso was now a wealthy man. 

The punishment of Sabbath-breaking was sure, though not immediate. Likethe punishment of intemperance or impurity, it would come. Here thecelebrated testimony of Sir Matthew Hale was adduced. Dr. Johnson'srules respecting the Sabbath were read, with the observation that nodoubt he owed much of his celebrity to their observance. Wilberforcehad declared that, at one period of his life, parliamentary duties wereso heavy that he would certainly have sunk under them, had it not beenfor the rest the Sabbath afforded. But the Sabbath was not merely a dayof rest, --it was a day for improvement. Where there was no Sabbath, allwas bad. The inhabitants of Scotland and New England were distinguishedfor industry and mental vigour; and they were equally distinguished forobservance of the Sabbath. The universal observance of the same day wasof great importance. It guarded against neglect. It told upon theungodly, as was shown by an eloquent induction of circumstances, --theshops closed--the sound of the church-going bell--the throngs of decentworshippers going to and fro, &c. 

Young men in great cities (it was observed) were in great danger, chiefly from example. They met with those who were older in sin thanthemselves--who prided themselves on knowing where the best oysterswere sold, the cheapest horses to be hired, or the cheapest boats to beengaged for the Sunday's excursion. Young men were ready to think, "IfI don't do this, I may do something worse. " The fallacy and danger ofthis mode of reasoning were exposed. It might be employed to excuse anysin. Public places of amusement were highways to destruction. Ah! howthose old people in that little cottage--surrounded with a stonewall--on the hill side--far away--would weep, if they knew their sonwas treading on the verge of these burning craters! Familiarity withSabbath-breaking destroyed the sense of guilt. The young medicalstudent when he first visited the dissecting-room, and the soldier whenhe first stood on the field of battle, were sensible of misgivings, against which repetition only made them proof, --each gradually losinghis first sensations. 

The desecration of the Sabbath was a greater evil to society than anytyrant could inflict. How would any infringement of civil rights beresisted! Here was an infringement with consequences infinitely moreinjurious; and yet the press were dumb dogs, and the pulpit itself wasnot guiltless!

This masterly discourse was read, but read in such a manner as to losenone of its effect. It occupied upwards of an hour. My irresistibleimpression as I listened was, _There is a man of God!_ Truly a lightshining in a dark place; for, as I returned to my lodgings, I found thecoffee-houses, oyster-saloons, and theatres all open, just as on anyother day, only more thronged with customers. How much such discoursesare needed in this place, I leave you to judge from the followingextract from the _New Orleans Guide_:--

"The greatest market-day is Sunday. At break of day the gatheringcommences, --youth and age--beauty and not so beautiful--all colours, nations, and tongues are co-mingled in one heterogeneous mass ofdelightful confusion. The traveller who leaves the city withoutvisiting one of the popular markets on Sunday morning has suffered arare treat to escape him. "

On the evening of the next day, being the first Monday in the month, Iwent to the "Concert" for prayer, which had been announced the daybefore. It was held in a vestry or a school-room under the church. About sixty or seventy persons were in attendance. When I got there, they were singing the last verse of

 "O'er the gloomy Mils of darkness, " &c. 

A gentleman then gave an address. His object was to show that extensivefields were open in various parts of the world for the introduction ofthe Gospel. There was nothing clerical in his appearance, and heboggled a great deal; but, as he said "We, the ministers of theGospel, " I inferred that he was the pastor of some other Presbyterianchurch in the city. Behind the desk, where sat Dr. S----, was hung up amissionary map of the world, drawn on canvas, and illuminated frombehind. It was an excellent device. All missionary prayer-meetingsshould be furnished with one. Those parts where the Gospel is alreadypreached were light, the realms of Heathenism dark, the lands of Poperyred, and so forth. 

After the address, the pastor called upon "Brother Franklin" to "leadin prayer. " The phrase was new to me, but I liked it, --it wasappropriate. The prayer was scriptural and good, as was that also ofanother brother. The second prayed that the war, in which they werethen as a nation engaged, might be overruled for good, and "be themeans of introducing the Gospel and free institutions to a neighbouringrepublic. " Free institutions, indeed! (I said to myself): if youconquer, I fear it will be the means of introducing slavery where nowit is not! After this prayer the pastor, having delivered a very shortaddress, gave out a hymn, and said that while they were singing Brothersuch-a-one would "take up the collection, "--a phrase which seems toindicate a greater degree of preparation on the part of the people thanour "make a collection. " The Americans suppose it to be already made, and nothing remains but to take it up. The good brother came round withan old hat to receive contributions for the cause of missions. Thepastor then closed with a short prayer and the benediction. Upon thewhole, there were indications of a considerable degree ofwarm-heartedness in reference to the missionary cause, and especiallyof tender sympathy and affection towards missionaries themselves. Asone of the tribe, I found it rather difficult to preserve my _incog_. There were present about half-a-dozen black people, some on the rightand some on the left of the pastor--"the place of honour!"

LETTER VI. 

"Jack Jones"--A Public Meeting for Ireland--Henry Clay--OtherSpeakers--American Feeling in reference to the Irish Famine--ASlave-Auction. 

On that dreadful day, the 28th of January, on which we arrived in NewOrleans, Jack Jones, a Welshman, was drowned in the Mississippi, in agenerous effort to save another man from a watery grave. In that efforthe succeeded, but at the cost of his own life. On the 2nd of Februarythere was an advertisement in the papers, in which his friends offereda reward for the recovery of the body. Where was the corporation, orsome one of the municipalities? for the papers make a continualreference to first, second, and third municipalities. Was there nopublic body, either civil or humane, to come forward on such anoccasion? Had "Jack Jones" gone to the war, and butchered a score ortwo of harmless Mexicans, he would have been loaded with honours; buthe _saved_ a human being, close to the metropolis of the South, and hisbody was left to perish like that of a dog--for aught the citizenscared. I felt proud of my countryman. All honour to "Jack Jones!" Maynone of Cambria's sons perish in a cause less noble!

On the evening of the 4th of February I attended a public meeting forthe relief of the Irish. It was held in the New Commercial Exchange, and was the first public meeting I had had an opportunity of attendingin America. The Commercial Exchange is a fine large building, supportedby pillars, and containing an area on the ground floor that wouldaccommodate about 1, 500 people. It is but ill-adapted for a publicmeeting, having no seats or benches. I found about 800 gentlemenpresent, but no ladies. Nor was that to be wondered at; for out of the800, about 799 were spitting, 600 smoking cigars, 100 chewing tobacco, and perhaps 200 both chewing and smoking at the same time, for many ofthose people chew one end of the cigar while burning the other. Therewas a large platform, and a great number of gentlemen were upon it. Governor Johnson was the president, assisted by lots ofvice-presidents. When I entered, a tall old gentleman, with rather highcheek bones, and a voice somewhat tremulous and nasal, was speaking. Hedescanted, in a second or third rate style, on the horrors of famine inIreland, --its horrors especially as seen in the family. Coming to aperiod, he said, "It is under these circumstances that I want you toput your hands into your pockets, and pull out something, and throw itinto the lap of starving Ireland!" This caused the most tremendouscheering I ever heard, --"bravo--bravo--bravo, --whoo--hoo--whoo!" Thelast sound was to me altogether new. Not having learned phonography, Ican give you no adequate notion of it; but it was a combination of theowl's screech and the pig's scream. The favoured orator continued hisspeech a little longer, and at the close there was a storm of applauseten times more terrific than the former. And who was the speaker? Itwas none other, as I subsequently ascertained, than the celebratedHenry Clay! In departing from the tone of eulogy in which it isfashionable to speak of him, I may be charged with a want of taste anddiscrimination. That I cannot help. My simple object in these lettersis to tell how Transatlantic men and manners appeared to my eye or ear. Before I went to America my respect for Henry Clay was very great. I amsorry to say it is not so now. I have closely examined his conduct inreference to "the peculiar institution, " and find it to have beenthat--not of a high-minded statesman and true philanthropist--but of atrimming, time-serving partisan. He has been a main pillar of slavery;and as the idol of the Whig party, a great stumbling-block in the wayof those who sought the overthrow of that system. The man of whom Ihave thus freely, yet conscientiously expressed myself, is neverthelessthus spoken of in the _New Englander_, a quarterly review of highcharacter now open before me:--"We intend to speak in the praise ofHenry Clay. His place among the great men of our country is permanentlyfixed. He stands forth prominent above the politicians of the hour, inthe midst of the chosen few who are perpetual guardians of the interestand of the honour [slavery?] of the nation. The foundations of his fameare laid deep and imperishable, and the superstructure is alreadyerected. It only remains that the mild light of the evening of life beshed around it. "

The cheering at the close of Mr. Clay's speech merged into an awfultempest of barking. I could compare it to nothing else, --500 menbarking with all their might! I thought it was all up with themeeting--that all was lost in incurable confusion; and yet thegentlemen on the platform looked down upon the raging tempest belowwith calmness and composure, as a thing of course. Amidst the noise Isaw a middle-aged gentleman, rising on the platform, deliberately takeoff his top-coat, and all was hushed--except at the outskirts of theassembly, where a great trade in talking and tobacco was constantlycarried on. This gentleman's name was S. S. Prentiss, Esq. ; and thebarking, it was now evident, consisted of calling out Prentiss!--Prentiss!--Prentiss! with all their might, on the top of thevoice, and with an accent, sharp and rising, on the first syllable. 

This gentleman gave us to understand that he was a lawyer--that he hadoften appeared before his fellow-citizens on former occasions (thoseoccasions he briefly enumerated); but that the present was the mostpainful of all. He expatiated largely, and with great vehemence of toneand action, on the miseries of famine as experienced inIreland, --talked much of their own glorious and free country--("Lookingout for a few niggers this morning?" occurred to me), --and made somesevere reflections--not, I admit, altogether undeserved--on theGovernment of England. This man was fluent, though turgid. He seemedresolved to _act_ the orator throughout, and certainly to me appearedin point of talent far--far a-head of Henry Clay. Bravos and hoohoos inabundance greeted Mr. Prentiss. He spoke long; but the noise of thesuburbs prevented my hearing so perfectly as I wished. 

The cheering at the close of this speech merged into barking as before. In this instance it was Hunt!--Hunt!--Hunt! that they called for. Thepresident (standing) showed them a sheet of paper, containing probablya list of subscriptions, and smiled coaxingly to intimate that hewished that to be read. But it would not do. Hunt!--Hunt!--Hunt! wasstill the cry; and the democracy, as before, carried the day. 

By this time the atmosphere of the room had become so poisoned withsmoking that I could endure it no longer. I had not only the generalatmosphere to bear, but special puffs, right in my face, accompanyingthe questions and remarks which, in that free meeting, of freecitizens, in a free country, were freely put to me by the free-and-easygentlemen around. The meeting resulted in the raising of 15, 000 dollarsfor the relief of the Irish. The sum was handed by the AmericanMinister in London to Lord John Russell; and a note from his Lordship, acknowledging the gift, has gone the round of the papers on both sidesof the Atlantic. The subject of relief to Ireland was subsequently, inmany ways and places, brought under my notice; and while I have beendelighted in many instances with the display of pure and noblegenerosity, it was too evident that much of what was done was done in aspirit of self-glorification over a humbled and afflicted rival. It wasa fine opportunity to feed the national vanity, and to deal hard blowsto England. Not that I was sorry to see those blows, or to feel them. They drew no blood, and were a hundred times more efficacious than ifthey had. I felt that there was much in the conduct of England towardsher unhappy sister-isle for which she deserved the severestcastigation. But I must protest against the form of putting the case, which was very common throughout the United States: "You are shocked atour slavery; and yet you have horrors of ten times greater magnitude, in the Irish famine at your own doors. " In this way the Irish famine, was a God-sent sort of a salvo for the slave-holder's conscience, sosoothing and grateful to his tortured feelings that he was but toohappy to pay for it by a contribution for the relief of Ireland. 

In consequence of the following advertisement in the _Picayune_, Iscrewed up my feelings, and resolved for once at least in my life tosee a slave-auction. I was the more disposed to attend this, as it wasdistinctly stated that they would be sold in families. I should nottherefore have to behold the wife torn away from the husband, thehusband from the wife, the parent from the child, or the child from theparent, as is so commonly done. 

"COTTON-FIELD HANDS. --By Beard, Calhoun, and Co. , auctioneers. --Will besold at auction, on Friday, the 5th inst. , at 12 o'clock, at Bank'sArcade, thirty-seven Field Slaves; comprising eighteen from oneplantation, and fourteen from another. All acclimated Negroes. To besold in Families. Full particulars at sale. "

"F. 4. "

Setting off a few minutes before 12, after about half-a-dozeninquiries, and as many "guessing" answers, I found "Bank's Arcade. " Itwas very near the Presbyterian church, in which I had heard suchexcellent sermons on the preceding Sabbath. It was a large openbuilding: one side occupied as a bar for the retail of strong drinks, and the other fitted up for auctioneering purposes, --there beingconveniences for three or four of the trade to exercise their vocationat the same time. One end was used for the sale of books and otherpublications, chiefly novels; and the other for the exhibition of fancygoods. 

As I got in at one end, I heard a voice--with that peculiar, twirling, rapid, nasal twang, which marks the Transatlantic auctioneer--say, "400dollars for this fine young woman--only 400 dollars--420, only420--430--440, only 440 dollars offered for this fine young woman. " Bythis time I had got in front of the performer, and had a full view ofthe whole affair. And sure enough she was a "fine young woman, " abouttwenty-three years of age, neatly dressed, not quite----But the sceneshall form the subject of my next letter. 

LETTER VII. 

The Slave-Auction (continued)--"A Fine Young Woman"--A Man and hisWife--Jim, the Blacksmith--A Family--A Ploughboy--Cornelia--AnotherJim--Tom, the House-Boy--Edmund--Tom, and "his reserved rights"--ACarriage Driver--Margaret and her Child. 

Yes, she _was_ a "fine young woman, " about 23 years of age, neatlydressed, not black, but slightly coloured. The auctioneer was asleek-looking fellow, with a face that indicated frequent and familiarintercourse with the brandy-bottle. He stood upon a platform, aboutfour feet high. Behind him was a table, at which a clerk sat to recordthe sales. High above was a semi-circular board, on which were writtenin large letters "Beard, Calhoun, and Co. " In front, standing upon achair, exposed to the gaze of a crowd of men, stood the "fine youngwoman. " She had an air of dignity even in that degrading position. Around were twenty or thirty more of the sable race, waiting theirturn. 

"440 dollars only offered, " continued the coarse and heartlessauctioneer; "450, thank you; 460, 460 dollars only offered for thisexcellent young woman--470 only, 470--480, 480 dollars onlyoffered--490--500 dollars offered--going for 500 dollars--once, goingfor 500 dollars--503 dollars--going for 503 dollars--going--once--twice--gone for 503 dollars. She is yours, sir, " pointingto the highest bidder. She stepped down, and disappeared in the custodyof her new proprietor. 

A man and his wife, both black, were now put up. They were made toascend the platform. "Now, how much for this man and his wife? Whomakes an offer? What say you for the pair? 550 dollars offered--560dollars only; 560 dollars, " &c. , &c. , till some one bidding 600dollars--he added, "Really, gentlemen, it is throwing the peopleaway--going for 600 dollars; going--once--twice--gone for 600 dollars. They are yours, sir. "

Jim, a blacksmith, about 30 years of age, was the next. He stood on thechair in front. "Now, who bids for Jim? He is an excellent blacksmith;can work on a plantation, and make his own tools; in fact, can turn hishand to anything. The title is good, "--(Is it, indeed? breathedI, )--"and he is guaranteed free from all the vices and maladiesprovided against by law. Who bids for him? 600 dollars bid for him--625 dollars--650 dollars, " and so on to 780. "'Pon my soul, gentlemen, this is throwing the man away; he is well worth 1, 200dollars of anybody's money; 790 dollars only offered for him--going for790 dollars;--going--once--twice--gone for 790 dollars. "

The next "lot" was a family, consisting of the husband, a man slightlycoloured, about 30 years of age, the wife about 25, quite black, andreminding me forcibly of an excellent woman in my own congregation, alittle girl about 4 years of age, and a child in the arms. They weretold to mount the platform. As they obeyed, I was attracted by a littleincident, which had well nigh caused my feelings to betray me. Nevershall I forget it. Parents of England, let me tell it you, and enlistyour sympathies on behalf of oppressed and outraged humanity. It wasthat of a father helping up, by the hand, _his own little girl to beexposed for sale_. "Now, who bids for this family? Titlegood--guaranteed free from the vices and maladies provided against bylaw. The man is an excellent shoemaker--can turn his hand toanything, --and his wife is a very good house-servant. Who bids for thelot? 500 dollars bid for them--600 dollars--only 600 dollars--700dollars offered for them. " But the price ultimately mounted up to 1, 125dollars. --"Going for 1, 125 dollars--once--twice--gone for 1, 125dollars. "

The next was a black boy, 16 years of age. He mounted the chair, notthe platform. "Now, gentlemen, here is an excellent ploughboy. Who bidsfor him? Thank you, --400 dollars bid for him--425, " and so on to 550dollars. "Why, look at him; he is a powerful-limbed boy; he will make avery large strong man. " He was knocked down at 625 dollars. 

"The next I have to put up, gentlemen, is a young piece of citygoods--the girl Cornelia. She is 18 years of age, a good washer andironer, but not a very good cook. She is well known in the city, andhas always belonged to some of the best families. " By this timeCornelia was standing upon the chair. "Now, gentlemen, who bids forthis girl? She is sold for no fault, but simply for want of money. Whobids for this excellent washer and ironer?" At this moment one of the"gentlemen, " standing in front of her, deliberately took hiswalking-stick, and, with the point of it, lifted up her clothes as highas the knee. I afterwards saw this same man walking arm-in-arm with hiswhite wife in the street. "500 dollars offered for her--530 dollars. "She went for 580. 

Here let me state, once for all, that I took notes on the spot. Thosearound me no doubt thought I was deeply interested in the state of theslave-market, and wishful to convey the most accurate information to myslave-breeding and soul-driving correspondents at a distance. Had myreal object and character been discovered, I gravely doubt whether Ishould have left that "great" and "free" city alive!

The next "lot" were Jim, his wife, and two children, one about three, and the other about two years of age, --all on the platform. They weresaid to be excellent cotton-field hands, title good, and so forth; but, somehow, there were no bidders. 

A boy about ten years of age, a fine intelligent-looking little fellow, was now made to mount the chair. "Now, who bids for Tom? an excellenthouse-boy, a 'smart' young lad; can wait well at table--titlegood--guaranteed free from all the vices and maladies provided againstby law. Who bids for him?" The bidding began, at 350 dollars, and endedat 425. 

"I have now to put up the boy Edmund, thirty-two years of age, anexcellent cotton-field hand. Who bids for the boy Edmund?" At thismoment a gentleman, who, like most of those present, appeared to be asort of speculator in slaves, stepped forward, and examined with hishands the boy's legs, especially about the ankles, just as I have seenhorse-dealers do with those animals at fairs. There were, however, nobidders; and Edmund was put down again. 

The next that mounted the chair was a shrewd-looking negro, aboutthirty-five years of age. "Now, gentlemen, who bids for Tom? He is anexcellent painter and glazier, and a good cook besides; title good;sold for no fault, except that his owner had hired him at 25 dollars amonth, and Tom would not work. An excellent painter and glazier, and agood cook besides. His only fault is that he has a great idea of hisown reserved rights, to the neglect of those of his master. " This wassaid with a waggish kind of a leer, as if he thought he had said a verysmart thing in a very smart way. 300 dollars were first offered forhim; but poor Tom went for 350. "Now, sir, " said the man-seller to Tom, with a malicious look, "you'll go into the country. " He was bought byone of the speculators, who no doubt would sell him again for doublethe amount. Tom, as he descended from the chair, gave a look whichseemed to say, "I care not whither I go; but my own reserved rightsshall not be forgotten!"

A girl of seventeen years of age, somewhat coloured, was the next putup. She was "an excellent washer and getter-up of linen. " She was also"a tolerably good cook. " But there were no bidders; and the auctioneersaid, "Really, gentlemen, I have a great deal of business to do in myoffice: I cannot lose any more time here, as you are not disposed tobid. " And so ended the exhibition. 

I was now at leisure to observe that a strange noise which I had heardfor some time proceeded from another auctioneer, engaged in the sameline of business at the other end of the room. As I approached, I sawhim with a young coloured man of about twenty-two years of age, standing on his left hand on the platform. What a sight! Two menstanding together, and the one offering the other for sale to thehighest bidder! In the young man's appearance there was something verygood and interesting. He reminded me forcibly of an excellent young manof the same colour in my own congregation. 430 dollars were offered forhim; but, as he was a good carriage driver, and worth a great dealmore, only he had not had time to dress himself for the sale, beingindustrious, sober, and _no runaway_ (said with significant emphasis), the bidding ran up to 660 dollars. Here one of the bidders on theauctioneer's right hand asked him something aside; to which heanswered, loudly and emphatically, "_Fully guaranteed in everyrespect_;" and then said to the young man, "Turn this way, and let thegentleman see you, " He was sold for 665 dollars. 

The next was a very modest-looking young mulatto girl, of smallfeatures and slender frame, with a little child (apparently not morethan a year old) in her arms, evidently the daughter of a white man. "Now, who bids for Margaret and her child?" Margaret! my own dearmother's name. "Margaret and her child!" What should I have been thisday, if _that_ Margaret "and her child" Ebenezer had been so treated?Who can think of his own mother, and not drop a tear of sympathy forthis mother--so young, so interesting, and yet so degraded? "Now, gentlemen, who bids for Margaret and her child? She is between sixteenand seventeen years of age, and is six months gone in pregnancy of hersecond child: I mention the last circumstance, because you would notthink it to look at her, --it is right, however, that you should know. She cooks well, sews well, washes well, and irons well. Only 545dollars! Really, gentlemen, it's throwing the girl away; she is wellworth 800 dollars of any man's money. She'll no doubt be the mother ofa great many children; and that is a consideration to a purchaser whowants to raise a fine young stock. Only 545 dollars offered for her!"No higher offer being made, she was sent down, --it was no sale. Let usbreathe again. 

LETTER VIII. 

St. Louis Exchange--Inspection of Human Chattels--ArtizanSlaves--Scenes and Proceedings of the Auction--Sale of the Men. 

Finding that another slave-auction was to be held at noon next day inthe St. Louis Exchange, I resolved to attend. The day was dull anddirty. "Please, sir, " said I to the first man I met, "to tell me whereSt. Louis Exchange is?" "Don't know, sir. " I walked on a littlefurther, and tried again. "Please to direct me to St. Louis Exchange?""Can't; but it's somewhere in that direction, " pointing with hisfinger. "Is this the way to St. Louis Exchange?" I asked a third. "Iguess it is, " was the curt and characteristic reply. "How far is it?""Three blocks further on; then turn to your right; go a little waydown, and you will find it on your left. " I went as directed, and cameto an immense building--a kind of hotel. There were nearly a dozenentrances, all leading into one vast saloon, where I found about 200gentlemen, --some drinking, some eating, some smoking, some reading, some talking, and all spitting. One end of the saloon was fitted up asa refreshment place, similar to those on railway stations in England. But I could see nothing like preparations for a sale. 

On looking around I perceived a large door in two halves, with springhinges, leading as it were further into the building. I pushed one halfopen, and found myself in a spacious circular hall, --its roof, endingin a dome, supported by a suitable number of massive columns. The floorwas tastefully paved with black and white marble, and all the lightcame from the dome. Some 100 gentlemen were sauntering about, and nowand then turning to several groupes of black people to ask themquestions. This place was evidently fitted up for auctioneeringpurposes, and seemed peculiarly adapted for man-selling. At equaldistances were a dozen elevated desks for the chief actors, each with asmall platform in front for the exhibition of the articles of sale. 

It was a quarter to twelve, by the clock that faced the entrance door, when I got in. Anxious to know what kind of questions were put to theslaves, I pushed myself into the knots of intending purchasers, just asif I had been one of them. The inquiries, I found, related to place ofbirth, subsequent removals, competency for work, and so forth. Theanswers presented a fearful view of the extent to which the internalslave-trade is carried on. Most of the slaves said they had been"raised" in Virginia and Kentucky. To avoid the suspicion of being aspy, I resolved to put a few questions too. I found myself at theestablishment where those named in the advertisement which had drawn methither were to be disposed of. A pile of handbills--each containing anexact copy of the advertisement, and a French translation--was lying onthe platform. Taking one up, I observed the name of "Squires, acarpenter. " Assuming all the confidence I could muster, I said, "Whichis Squires?" "I'm here, sir. " "You are a carpenter, are you not?" "Yes, sir, " (with a very polite bow). "And what can you do?" "I can trim ahouse, sir, from top to bottom. " "Can you make a panelled door?" "Yes, Sir. " "Sash windows?" "Yes, sir. " "A staircase?" "Yes, sir. " I gave awise and dignified nod, and passed on to another groupe. In myprogress, I found by one of the platforms a middle-aged black woman, and a mulatto girl of perhaps eighteen crouching by her side. "Are yourelated to each other?" I said. "No, sir. " "Have you lived long in thecity?" I said to the younger. "About two years, sir; but I was 'raised'in South Carolina. " "And why does your owner sell you?" "Because Icannot cut--she wants a cutter--I can only sew. " I then returned to thegroupe at platform No. 1. 

The clock was striking twelve; and, before it had finished, the vastdome reverberated with the noise of half-a-dozen man-sellers bawling atonce, disposing of God's images to the highest bidders. It was aterrible din. But, at our platform, business proceeded ratherleisurely. Two gentlemen ascended the desk: the one of a lightcomplexion, about fifty-five years of age, rather fat, whiskers andbeard smoothly shaven off; the other, a Frenchified-looking young man, about twenty-five years of age, of dark complexion, with greenspectacles to hide some deformity of the eye, no whiskers, but a largequantity of beard on the lower chin. The elderly man, whom I took to bethe notary public mentioned in the advertisement, read the terms ofsale; then the dark auctioneer, stroking his bearded chin, proceeded tobusiness. 

"Now, gentlemen, let me sell you Jacob. He is twenty-six years ofage--a first-rate carpenter and wheelwright--_Jacob âgé d'environ 26ans, charpentier et charron de la première ordre_--guaranteed free fromthe vices and maladies provided against by law--_garanti exempt desvices et des maladies prévus par la loi_. How much for Jacob? _Combienpour Jacob?_" He was run up from 1, 000 dollars, and was going for1, 175, when the fat old gentleman offered 1, 200, at which he wasknocked down. "Now, gentlemen, " said the fat man, with deliberation andemphasis, "the 1, 200 dollars was my bid, and therefore Jacob is notsold. He is well worth 1, 800 dollars. "

At this performance, be it observed, the chief actor uttered everythingfirst in English, and then in French, in the same breath, therebygiving the proceedings a most strange and comical sound. 

Abraham, although on the advertisement, was not present. 

Sancho, a black man, twenty-seven years of age, was the next in order. He was described as "an excellent carpenter--_excellentcharpentier_--can do anything but fine work--fully guaranteed free fromthe maladies and vices provided against by law;" and, as nobody wouldbid higher, he also was bought in by the fat man at 1, 025 dollars. 

George, a black man, twenty-seven years of age, was the next to mountthe platform. George kept his eyes fixed upon the dome, as if he feltabove looking down on the grovelling creatures beneath him. He was astout-built, thick-set man, who evidently felt to the very core thedegradation to which he was exposed. "Now, gentlemen, let me sell youGeorge--a first-rate bricklayer--_excellent poseur de briques_--bearsan excellent character--only he absconded once from his master for afew days. How much do you offer for him?" The bidding began at 500dollars; but George, like his predecessors, was bought in at 980 by thefat man, who protested him to be well worth 1, 500. 

Squires--whom I questioned about doors, sash-windows, andstaircases--was next put up. He was said to be twenty-eight years ofage; but I think he was nearer forty. On his forehead was a deep scar, occasioned by some severe cut. He appeared to be a very good-temperedman, and by his smiling looks seemed to say, "Buy me, and I'll serveyou well. " "What will you offer for Squires, gentlemen?--an excellentcarpenter--can trim a house--all but the very fine work--bears anexcellent character--is fully guaranteed, " &c. &c. "Who bids forSquires?" Poor fellow! he was sold for 900 dollars. 

Sancho was put up again, the fat man observing that he had made amistake in offering a reserve bid for him--that he would be soldwithout reserve. He was put up at 600 dollars. The biddings graduallyascended to 900, and there stood, till, after a considerableexpenditure of the Frenchman's breath and talent, Sancho was knockeddown at 900 dollars, though when first put up 1, 025 had been offeredfor him. 

John, a black man, twenty-five years of age, "an excellent French andAmerican cook--_excellent cuisinier Français et Américain_, " was put upat 600 dollars, and, after the usual quantity of the Frenchman'seloquence, (accompanied, as in all other cases, by the constant rubbingof his tuft of chin-beard with the left hand, while in the right heflourished a fine massive gold pencil-case and a sheet of paper, )fetched 775 dollars, at which price he was knocked down to one RobertMurphy. 

Silas also, a black boy, fifteen years of age, a house-servant, with alarge scar on the right cheek, was sold for 670 dollars to RobertMurphy; who likewise became the purchaser of Scipio, a black man abouttwenty-four years of age, "an excellent cook, fully warranted in everyrespect, " for 705 dollars. 

"Now, gentlemen, " resumed the green-spectacled auctioneer, stillstroking his cherished tuft of long black beard, --"now, gentlemen, letme sell you Samson! He is twenty-six years of age--an excellenthouse-servant--guaranteed free, " &c. &c. "What do you offer forSamson?" Poor Samson fell into the hands of the Philistines at 710dollars. 

Sam, the next on the list, was not present. Ben was therefore put up. He was a fine buckish young fellow, about twenty-one. His complexionwas lighter than that of a mulatto, and his hair was not at allcrisped, but straight, and of a jet black. He was dressed in a goodcloth surtout coat, and looked altogether far more respectable andintelligent than most of the bidders. He was evidently a high-mindedyoung man, who felt deeply the insulting position he was made tooccupy. Oh! that I could have whispered in his ear a few words ofsympathy and comfort. He stood on the platform firm and erect, his eyesapparently fixed on the clock opposite. "Now, gentlemen, what do youoffer for Ben?" said the Frenchified salesman; "a first-ratetailor--only twenty-one years of age. " 700 dollars proved to be theestimated value of this "excellent tailor. "

Charles (not in the catalogue) was now offered. He was a black man, ofgreat muscular power, said to be twenty-eight years of age. He had, itwas admitted, absconded once from his master! At this intelligence thecountenances of the bidders fell. He had evidently gone down at least20 per cent. In value. Though offered at 300 dollars, however, he roseto 640, at which price he was sold. 

The "ladies" were yet to be exhibited. "Elizabeth" (my own dearsister's name) was the first. But I reserve this part of the scene foranother letter. 

LETTER IX. 

Sale of Women--Second Sabbath in New Orleans--Cricket in front of thePresbyterian "Church"--The Baptist "Church"--A Peep at an AmericanSabbath-School--Proceedings in "Church"--A Sermon on "The NewBirth"--Nut-cracking during Sermon--"Close Communion. "

You shall now learn how men buy and sell women in America. "Elizabeth"was the first who was made to mount the platform. She was a verygenteel-looking girl, about eighteen years of age, evidently thedaughter of a white man, and said to be "a good seamstress andhouse-servant--_excellente couturière et domestique de maison_. " 600dollars was the first bid, and 810 the last, at which price (about170_l. _) Elizabeth--so young and so interesting--was sold!

"Susan, " too, was a mulatto--the daughter of a white man. She wasshort, dumpy, and full-faced, about sixteen years of age, "a plainseamstress and house-servant. " She appeared exceedingly modest, andkept her eyes on the floor in front of the platform. On that floor, asusual, the filthy dealers in human flesh were ever and anon pouringforth immense quantities of tobacco juice. For Susan the first bid was500 dollars, and the highest 700 (nearly 150_l. _), at which she was"knocked down. " But the fat old man, as before, in his peculiardrawling nasal tones, said, "The 700 dollars was my bid, and thereforeSusan is not sold. " Poor Susan was very sad and gloomy. 

"Betsy, " another "plain seamstress and house-servant, " about sixteenyears of age, also the daughter of a white man, had a fine intelligenteye, and her effort to restrain her feelings was evidently great. Theoffers, however, not suiting, the auctioneer closed the exhibition, which had lasted an hour. 

The next day being the Sabbath, I took it into my head to find out theBaptist Church. They are all "churches" in America. It was not far fromthe Presbyterian place of worship. In passing the latter, I saw (as onthe previous Sabbath) about forty or fifty boys in the square in frontplaying at cricket. A number of grave-looking gentlemen were standingunder the portico of the church, looking on with apparentcomplacency, --not one attempting either to check these juvenileSabbath-breakers, or to allure them to occupations more suitable to theday. 

The Baptist Church is a small place, about 60 feet by 30, withoutgalleries, except a little one for the singers. When we arrived, asmall Sabbath-school was being conducted in the body of the chapel. About fifty children were present, of whom not one was coloured. One ofthe teachers kindly led us to a pew. It was the third or fourth fromthe door. The school, which occupied the part next to the pulpit, wasabout to be dismissed. The superintendent got into the "table-pew" toaddress the scholars. It was the first time I had had an opportunity ofhearing an address to children in America. In the land of the Todds, the Abbotts, and the Gallaudets, I expected something very lively andinteresting. But grievous was my disappointment. The address was dulland lifeless. There was in it neither light nor heat. When thesuperintendent had done, an elderly gentleman, shrewd and busy-looking, having in his hand a black walking-stick and on his neck a black stock, with shirt-collar turned over it like a white binding (the nationalfashion of the Americans), came up, and told the school that theproprietor of the splendid picture, "The Departure of the Israelitesfrom Egypt, " had requested him to deliver a lecture upon it; that hehad engaged to do so on Monday a-week; and that the scholars andteachers of that school would be admitted free. I should like (said Ito myself) to hear you: a lecture on the emancipation of those poorslaves cannot fail to be interesting in the slave-holding city of NewOrleans. The school was now dismissed, and the scholars left to enjoytheir full swing of lawless liberty. 

The elderly gentleman descended from his elevation, and walked aboutthe "church, " backwards and forwards, whispering a few words to one, and then to another, in a very bustling manner. As I looked down theaisle, I saw on one side of it, near the pulpit end, a leg projectingabout eighteen inches, in a pendent position, at an angle of aboutforty-five degrees. This leg attracted my notice by its strange andsolitary appearance. It seemed as if it had got astray from its owner. In America gentlemen's legs do get sometimes most strangely astray, --onthe chair arms, on the tables, on the chimney-pieces, and into allsorts of out-of-the-way places. While other people generally try howhigh they can carry their heads, the ambition of the Americans is totry how high they can carry their heels! Observing the leg in questiona little more attentively, I found that behind it (in the adjoiningpew), and in close and intimate connection with it, was a man dressedin black. The bustling old gentleman came by, tapped him on theshoulder, and beckoned him forward, along with himself, to the rostrum. Here they were met by a tall man of grave appearance, about thirtyyears of age, with a pale face and bald forehead, wearing a whitecravat, with corners about ten inches long, stretching out on eitherside towards the shoulders. He was made to take the central position atthe desk; while the man with the leg took the right, and the elderlygentleman the left. 

The elderly gentleman (who, from his I'm-at-home kind of air, wasevidently the pastor) offered up a short prayer, and then gave out ahymn, which some few friends in the gallery (standing up) sang; all therest of the congregation sitting down, and very few joining at all inthe psalmody. This exercise over, the central gentleman arose, and, having first read a few verses of Scripture, offered up a very suitableprayer about eight or ten minutes long. The man on the right then gaveout another hymn, which was sung as before. 

The central gentleman now, in a very low don't-care-whether-you-hear-or-not tone of voice, gave out a text. It wasJohn iii. 7: "Marvel not that I said unto thee, Ye must be born again. "I will give you a sketch of his sermon. He observed that of allsubjects on which men might be addressed, religious subjects were themost important; and that of all religious subjects, that to which thetext referred was the most momentous. Having noticed the context, heproposed to inquire, first, into the necessity of being born again. This change (he observed) was necessary, in order to enjoy heaven. Itwas a common observation, that "society seeks its level. " The Indian, for example, could not be happy amidst the refinements of civilization. The gambler and the swearer could not be happy in the society of thepious and devout. If so in this world, amidst imperfect holiness, howmuch more so in the pure society of the celestial state!

During these remarks, I was much annoyed by the cracking of nuts notvery far off. I looked around, and actually found it was a mothercracking them for her two boys, one of whom might be seven and theother five years of age, --one by her side, and the other in the nextpew behind. To the latter she deliberately handed over the kernels in apocket-handkerchief; and yet, to look at her, you would have thoughther a woman of sense and piety!

The preacher noticed, in the second place, the nature of this change. It was spiritual, not physical, --a "revolution" (!) of the mind, rather than a mere change of opinion or of outward deportment. Thethird observation related to the evidence of the change. Its existencemight be ascertained by our own experience, and by the Word of God. Theformer was not to be trusted without a reference to the latter. Thischange destroyed the love of the world. It led man to abandon hisfavourite sins, and to live and labour to do good. It also created inhim new desires and enjoyments. These topics were variously andsuitably illustrated, and the whole was a very good sermon on thesubject. 

At the close the man on the right offered an appropriate prayer. Thepastor then made several announcements; among them, that a meeting topray for the success of Sabbath-schools would be held on the morrowevening. In connection with that announcement, he said: "I am a veryplain man, and my God is a very plain God. He is so in all his dealingswith men. He always acts on the plain common-sense principle, that, ifa favour is worth bestowing, it is worth asking for. " He also intimatedthat there would be a Church-meeting immediately after the service, preparatory to the ordinance of the Lord's Supper in the afternoon, inviting at the same time any members of other Baptist Churches whomight be present to participate with them in that privilege. This formof invitation led me to understand that they were "closecommunionists;" and such I have ascertained to be the case, not onlywith them, but also with all the regular Baptists in America. Theinfluence of Robert Hall and others was not felt so powerfully on thatside of the Atlantic as on this. I suppose that, while this worthypastor would have freely admitted to the Lord's Supper any immersedslave-holder, he would have sternly refused that privilege to me--asprinkled missionary from a distant land. You will readily believe, however, that the anti-slavery missionary--the pastor of a largecongregation of black and coloured people--was not very ambitious ofChristian fellowship with slave-holders. 

LETTER X. 

Interview with a Baptist Minister--Conversation with a Young Man in theBaptist Church--The Presbyterian Church, and Dr. Scott again--A Peep atthe House of Representatives of Louisiana--Contrast between the Frenchand the Americans in the Treatment of their Slaves--Dinner Table in NewOrleans--American Manners. 

The decided part acted by the Baptist missionaries in the BritishColonies, in reference to slavery, made me anxious to know thewhereabouts of the Baptist minister in New Orleans on that subject; andI therefore visited his place of worship again in the afternoon. Theywere engaged in celebrating the ordinance of the Lord's Supper. A veryclean and neatly-dressed black woman was standing in the portico, looking in, and watching the proceedings with deep interest. Sheevidently wished to enter, but dared not. At the close I introducedmyself to the minister as Davies, from British Guiana, attached to theministry of the missionaries of the London Society. He was very kindand cordial, and pressed my wife and myself to go home with him to tea. We accepted the invitation. Among other questions, he asked how ournegroes worked, now that they were free? I told him, "Very well indeed;and you may very safely venture to emancipate your slaves as soon asyou please. " This led us at once _in medias res_. His views I found tobe simply as follows: how pious! how plausible! how convenient! howextensively prevalent in reference to other evils than slavery!"Slavery is a political institution. As a Christian minister, I havenothing to do with politics. My business is to preach the Gospel, andtry to save men's souls. In this course I am sanctioned by the exampleof the Apostle Paul. Slavery existed in his day; but he turned notaside from the great object to attempt its overthrow. He simply toldmasters and slaves their duty, without at all interfering with therelation subsisting between them. Besides, the opposite of this coursewould render us and our churches unpopular, and thereby destroy ourusefulness. " He also seemed very sore at the idea of the Christianityof slave-holders being at all called in question. "People, " said he, orwords to the same effect, "may spare themselves the trouble to passresolutions of non-fellowship with us; we wish for no fellowship withthose who are so uncharitable as to question our piety. " I began now tounderstand why the Abolitionists call the American churches "thebulwark of slavery. "

Subsequently, on the same day, I had conversation with a young man, whom I had that afternoon seen sitting down at the Lord's Table in theBaptist Church. He told me that there were in New Orleans two BaptistChurches of coloured people, presided over by faithful and devotedpastors of their own colour. "And does your pastor, " I inquired, "recognise them, and have fellowship with them?" "Oh! yes, he has oftenpreached to them. He feels very anxious, I can assure you, for theconversion of the slaves. " "And do those coloured preachers ever occupyyour pulpit?" "Oh, dear me, no!" with evident alarm. "Why not? You saythey are good men, and sound in doctrine. " "Oh! they would not betolerated. Besides, they are accustomed to speak in broken English, andin very familiar language; otherwise the slaves could not understandthem. The slaves, you know, cannot read, and are not allowed to learn. "This he said in a tone of voice which indicated an entire acquiescencein that state of things, as if he thought the arrangement perfectlyright. But what iniquity! To come between the Word of God and hisrational creature! To interpose between the light of Heaven and thesoul of man! To withhold the lamp of life from one-sixth of the entirepopulation! Of all the damning features of American slavery, this isthe most damning!

"I suppose, " continued I, "if any of the black people come to yourchurches, they have to sit by themselves?"

_Young Man. _--"Of course: I have never seen it otherwise. "

_Myself. _--"And I have never before seen it so. With us, in BritishGuiana, blacks and whites mingle together indiscriminately in theworship of our common Father. "

_Young Man. _ (with amazement). --"There must be a a great change herebefore it comes to that. It must appear very strange. "

_Myself. _--"Very much like heaven where they shall come together fromthe east and from the west, from the north and from the south, &c. Why, we have black deacons, who, at the celebration of the Lord's Supper, carry the bread and wine, and give them even to white people. "

_Young Man. _ (with more astonishment than ever, and in a tone ofoffended dignity). --"I don't think I could stand that--I don't! A greatchange must take place in my feelings before I could. I don't like tomingle Ham and Japhet together for my part--I don't!"

_Myself. _--"Why, they were mingled together in the ark. "

_Young Man. _--"Yes; but old Noah quarrelled with Ham soon after he cameout, and cursed him. "

_Myself. _--"Granted; but you and your pastor profess to be anxious forthe slaves' conversion to God, and thereby to roll away the curse. "Here the dialogue ended. 

In the evening I was desirous of hearing Dr. Hawkes, an Episcopalianminister, of whose talents and popularity I had heard much in NewOrleans; but, finding that he did not preach in the evening, I wentagain to hear Dr. Scott at the Presbyterian Church. Having stood aconsiderable time at the door inside, and receiving no encouragement toadvance, I ventured, along with my wife, to enter the pew next to thedoor. This proved a most unfortunate position. There was not lightenough to take any notes; while the incessant opening and shutting ofthe door, with its rusty hinges, made it extremely difficult to hear. The discourse, however, which was again addressed to young men in greatcities, was characterized by all the power and piety whichdistinguished the one of the previous Sabbath. I retired deeplyimpressed with the value of such a ministry in such a place. Dr. Scottwas one of the American delegates to the Conference for the formationof the Evangelical Alliance in 1846. He is a Southern man, born andbred amidst the wilds of Tennessee, whose early educational advantageswere very small. He is, in a great measure, a self-made man. Brought upin the midst of slavery, he is (I rejoice to hear) a cordial hater ofthe system. As a minister, he is "thoroughly furnished--a workman thatneedeth not to be ashamed. " His knowledge of the world, as well as ofthe Word of God and of the human heart, is extensive, and is turned tothe best account in his ministrations. In leaving New Orleans I felt noregret, but that I had not called upon this good man. 

On Monday morning, the 8th of February, I had a peep at the House ofRepresentatives of the State of Louisiana, then in session at NewOrleans. The room, a dark and dingy-looking place, was fitted up withdesks and seats in the form of the letter D. A desk and a spittoon wereallowed to each honourable member, --the latter article being deemed asnecessary as the former. Whether smoking was suffered during the hoursof business or not I cannot tell, but the room smelt horribly of staletobacco. Between fifty and sixty members were present, and nevercertainly, either in the Old World or in the New, did I see anassemblage of worse-looking men. They seemed fitted for any deeds ofrobbery, blood, and death. Several distinguished duellists were pointedout to me; among them Colonel Crane, an old man, who had repeatedlyfought with Mr. Bowie, the inventor of the "Bowie knife, " and hadkilled several men in personal combat! The motion before the house justat that time was for the release from prison of a Mr. Simms, who a fewdays before had violently assaulted one of the members in the lobby. Hewas released accordingly. Who will not pity the 200, 000 slaves of thisState, who are at the "tender mercies" of these sanguinary men? Nor letit be said, as it often is, that New Orleans and Louisiana are not afair specimen of things even in the South, --that they are more Frenchthan American, &c. This is not the case. Nothing in New Orleans struckme more forcibly than its thoroughly American character. Americanusages, American influence, American laws, and American religion arethere predominant. Things were much better for the black and colouredpeople when it was not so. The French treated their slaves incomparablykinder than the Americans do. They often married coloured women, andinvariably treated their own coloured offspring, whether legitimate orillegitimate, with tenderness and regard. They had them suitablyeducated and adequately provided for; so that, at the present moment, alarge portion of the city of New Orleans is the freehold property ofcoloured persons. Not so act the Americans. They indulge in thegrossest licentiousness with coloured women, but would shudder at theidea of marrying one of them; and, instead of giving any property totheir coloured offspring, they do not scruple to sell them as slaves!Had I gone to the Roman Catholic cathedral in that city, which isattended chiefly by the French and their descendants, I should havefound no negro pew, but persons of all colours intermingled together inreligious observances. The Southerners seem to have no heart--nofeeling, except that of love to the almighty dollar. 

The population of New Orleans is about 90, 000. On this mass of peopleare brought to bear the labours of at least thirteen ministers of theMethodist Episcopal Church, seven Presbyterians, four Episcopalians, and three Baptists, --all professedly evangelical;--besides aconsiderable number of Roman Catholics, and other non-evangelicalteachers. But Satan has there a large array of synagogues. 

I omitted, at the proper time, to describe the scene we witnessed atour "private" lodgings the first day we sat down to dinner. Though itwas called a "private" boarding-house, and we had taken the apartmentsas such, we found ourselves surrounded by about thirty boarders! Thesewere all respectable men, or rather men whom, from their position insociety, you would expect to be respectable. Doctors, lieutenants inthe army, captains, merchants, editors, clerks of the senate, and soforth, were among them. My wife was the only lady besides the mistressof the house. 

We were all waiting in an ante-room for the summons to dinner. It came. The door of the dining-room was thrown open; and before you could havesaid "Jack Robinson, " the whole had rushed through, were seated attable, and sending forth a forest of forks in the direction of thevarious dishes! I had often heard of this wolfish habit, but thoughtour cousins were caricatured. Here, however, was the reality. Had I notbeen an eye-witness, I could not have believed it. Not a single seathad been kept vacant for the only lady who had to be accommodated, andwe were both left to console ourselves in the ante-room! The landlady, however, having "an eye to business, " arranged for our accommodation atthe table. There had been on the table a turkey, a piece of beef, somefish, and pastry, --all ready carved. Most of these things had instantlydisappeared, --the knives and forks had borne them away in triumph. There was no waiting to be served: every one stuck his fork in what heliked best, or what was most within his reach. It was a regularscramble. The principle seemed to be to _begin_ to eat as soon aspossible, no matter what! Some began with nothing but potatoes, somewith a bit of bread, some with a piece of beef, some with a limb of theturkey. Some, I noticed, beginning with fowl, then taking roast beef, then boiled mutton, then fish, and then some pastry, --all on the sameplate, and--faugh!--portions of most of them there at the same time! Nochange of plate, --that would have been extravagant, and would havesavoured of aristocracy. Freedom, it seemed, allowed every one to helphimself; and that with his own knife and fork, which he had before usedfor all sorts of purposes. Such luxuries as salt-spoons andmustard-spoons are very rare south of the Ohio. My wife asked the ladyof the house for a small slice of the ham she had before her, when thelatter very politely begged Mrs. Davies to lend her her knife to cut itwith! This was good society in New Orleans. Things improved as weadvanced towards the North; but in most places, though the Americansprovide bountifully, the cooking is not good, and they make a strangejumble of things at table. They have the appearance of a peoplesuddenly raised in the world, and able to afford themselves nicethings, but very ignorant and awkward in the use of them. With so muchhurry to begin, the time occupied in eating by our company was veryshort. We Britishers had scarcely begun, when one and another got upfrom table, finishing his dinner as he walked away. They cannot bear tosit at table a moment longer than is absolutely necessary. While weremained seated, they passed before us on their way out, --one eating, one picking his teeth, one scraping his throat, one spitting on thefloor. Of course, we seldom made a hearty meal under suchcircumstances. 

LETTER XI. 

Farewell to New Orleans--Revolting Bargain--"The Anglo Saxon"Steam-boat--Moderate Fare--Steam Navigation of the Mississippi--Steamboat and Railway Literature--Parting View of the "Crescent City"--SlaveAdvertisements--Baton Rouge--A Sugar Estate--Fellow-Passengers--TheLadies' Cabin--A Baptist Minister--A Reverend Slave-holder. 

Preparing to leave New Orleans, on the evening of the 8th of February, we called for our bill, and found, for the nine days of our stay, acharge of eight dollars more than we had agreed for. Unwilling to beimposed upon, I remonstrated; and we split the difference with our"smart" landlady. We turned our backs upon the city, with a heartywish that we might never see it again. It is a horrid place. Bowieknives, revolving pistols, and other deadly weapons, are exposed forsale on every side, --a pretty clear proof of an extensive demand. 

Shall I tell you of a most revolting abomination, which I know, on goodauthority, occurred about the time we were there? A large importer ofslaves from the "slave-breeding" States, having on board a considerablenumber of young women, made an offer of the use of their persons to avolunteer regiment of soldiers, then waiting to be conveyed to Mexico. The offer was accepted; and the wretch boasted that he had made 700dollars, or 150_l. _ sterling, by the transaction! The laws of this_great_ and _free_ country had, however, consigned these helpless youngwomen to his absolute disposal! Alas! for Freedom, had she no holierhome than the Southern States of the American Union! And yet of thecountry in which this licentious bargain was made, even John Todd, theexcellent author of "Lectures to Children, " thus writes, --"This land isfree. The mind is here free, --and the child is to be born--if indeed heever will be born--whose powers and faculties may not be called out andcultivated. There is no bondage to forms or precedents; but the wholemass may be seasoned, leavened, and moved, and is at liberty to do whatis great and good in the way that is most convenient. "

Four o'clock in the afternoon found us safely on board the"Anglo-Saxon, " a fine new steam-boat, bound for Pittsburgh inPennsylvania. We booked ourselves for Cincinnati in Ohio, a distance of1, 550 miles. The fare was 12 dollars each; and the captain said weshould be from six to ten days in getting to our destination. (We were, however, twelve days. ) Twelve dollars, or about 2_l. _ 10_s. _, for theoccupation of splendid apartments, sitting down at a well-furnishedtable, and being conveyed 1, 550 miles! Scarcely believing that therewas not some mistake, I asked a fellow-passenger if the 12 dollarsreally did include board, and was told that most certainly it did, --itwas the regular fare. Travelling at this rate was literally cheaperthan staying at home. It was just one dollar a day each for food, lodgings, and locomotion! This "Anglo-Saxon"--forge below and palaceabove, as all these boats appear to be--is a noble vessel. Thedimensions, as given me by the "clerk" or purser, are--length of keel182 feet, breadth of beam 26 feet, depth of hull 6 feet, length ofcabin 140 feet; two engines 6-1/2 feet stroke; two cylinders 18-1/2inches in diameter; height between decks 9-1/2 feet; having afire-engine and hose; berth accommodation for 73 cabin-passengers, butoften has more. Unexpectedly, we had got on board the only temperancevessel on the river--the only one that kept no "bar. " It belongedchiefly to Quakers. The captain and the clerk, both part-proprietors, had married sisters. The engineer also was connected with them bymarriage. These circumstances encouraged the hope that we had falleninto good steady hands, who would do all in their power to avoidexplosion. 

The number of steam-boats which puff, and groan, and paddle up and downthe Mississippi, is amazing, --probably not fewer than 1, 200. Only inthe year 1812 was the _first_ seen on these western waters! The view ofa long range of these splendid vessels lying against the landing-placeis magnificent. Though not very substantial, they are extremely showy. Lightness of construction and elegance of accommodation are chieflystudied. The "Anglo-Saxon" is not by any means one of the largestclass. These vessels are doubtless well adapted for their purpose as_river_ boats; in the sea, they could do nothing but capsize and sink. 

In no portion of the globe should the invention of steam-boats be morehighly appreciated than in the valley of the Mississippi; for nowhereelse has the triumph of art over the obstacles of nature been morecomplete. But for this gigantic application of the power of steam, thousands of boatmen would have been slowly and laboriously _warping_, and rowing, and _poling_, and _cordelling_ their boats, in a threemonths' trip up this mighty stream, which (thanks to Watt) is nowascended in ten days. This "go-a-head" country advances more in fiveyears with steam-boats, than it could have done in fifty without them. The principal points in the Ohio and the Mississippi, which nature hadseparated by distances and other obstacles more formidable than attendthe crossing of the Atlantic, art has brought into practicaljuxtaposition. 

On embarking on the "Anglo-Saxon, " we found that we could not get offthat night, and therefore made ourselves comfortable on board tillmorning. 

February 9. --This morning, while the boat was being got ready, hawkersof light literature flocked on board. Baskets full of trashy novelswere continually offered to us. Why should not the same facilities beafforded for obtaining better publications? Truly, "the children ofthis world are wiser in their generation than the children of light. "This reproach is not peculiar to Americans. Why should there not be inEngland the same facilities for obtaining publications of real valueand utility, as for obtaining works of mere amusement, if not somethingworse?

At noon our engine began to puff, and our paddles to move. The"crescent city" soon vanished in the distance, not, however, till wehad enjoyed a striking view of it, and especially of the harbour. Anarea of many acres, covered with a grotesque variety of flat boats, keel boats, and water craft of every description, that had floated downfrom the valley above, lined the upper part of the shore. Steam-boats, rounding to, or (like our own) sweeping away, cast long horizontalstreams of smoke behind them; while barques and brigs, schooners andsloops, ranged below each other in order of size, and showing a forest ofmasts, occupied the wharfs. These and a thousand other objects, seen asthey were under a brilliant sun, presented a picture of surpassingsplendour; but the curse and blight of slavery were upon it!

Being now fairly under weigh, let me glance at a New Orleans paper ofthis morning, which I bought from one of the hawkers. How consoling thefollowing paragraph!

"STEAM-BOAT EXPLOSION. --Captain Duncan, of the 'Swan, ' reports that thetow-boat, 'Daniel Webster, ' burst her larboard boiler on the 6thinstant, while towing in a vessel over the South-west Bar. Mr. WilliamTaylor, one of the Balize pilots, and one of the firemen were instantlykilled. The rest of the crew of the 'Daniel Webster' were slightlyscalded. "

These explosions are of daily occurrence; and though we had a freshboat, and good steady men to manage it, our feeling of security wasvery small. 

The six following advertisements I found in succession in the samepaper, besides many more of a like character interspersed throughoutthe sheet. How _manly_ and how _mysterious_ is the first!

"To PLANTERS--For Sale, a splendid Virginia woman-servant, thirty yearsold, who has been in this country twenty-four years; speaks French andEnglish; good cook, washer, and ironer, and has kept store. She is of astrong constitution; has never been sick, and never had a child. She isfor sale for no fault, but on account of domestic trouble. _She is not forsale for any one in this city. No one but a planter need apply_. Forparticulars apply at No. 189, Common-street. 

"F 9--t. "

"MECHANICS AT PRIVATE SALE. --We have for sale 3 good Carpenters, 1 goodPlasterer, 1 Plantation Blacksmith, 1 excellent Tailor, 1 superiorCabinetmaker. The above slaves are well recommended, and can be sent ontrial at their respective trades. 

"BEARD, CALHOUN & CO. , "8, Bank's Arcade. "

"F 3--10t. "

"NEGROES FOR SALE. --A young Negro man, first-rate field hand, 19 or 20years old; also a very likely girl, good house-servant and tolerableseamstress. Apply to

"McMAHON & PEARSALL, "29, Natchez-street. "

"F4--6t. "

"TEN DOLLARS REWARD. --Left the steam-boat 'Little Rock, ' on Mondaymorning, the 1st instant, a Mulatto _boy_, named Bob Malane, _about_ 40_years of age_, 5 feet 4 or 5 inches high. Any information respecting_said boy_ will be thankfully received at the office of Williams, Phillips & Co. , No. 62, Gravier-street. 

"WILLIAM ARNOLD. "

"F7--3t. "

"FIFTY DOLLARS REWARD. --Ran away from Mrs. Shall's, in Canal-street, onthe 6th instant, at 3 o'clock, P. M. , the Negro-girl Eliza, aged 16years, rather small size, very black, with a handsome face. Had on whenshe left a dark-coloured calico dress, low quartered shoes, andstockings; took no other clothing. It is believed she was decoyed awayby a free coloured man, well known on several steam-boats, now in thecity. Captains of vessels going to St. Louis are cautioned not toreceive the girl on board. The above reward will be given for theapprehension of said slave, if found in the possession of any white orfree coloured person, under circumstances that would lead to aconviction at law; or 30 dollars if delivered at 28, Canal-street, NewOrleans, with any reasonable expenses incurred in so doing. 

"RICHARD KING. "

"F 7--2t. "

"ONE DOLLAR REWARD. --Will be given for the apprehension of theNegro-woman Sarah, aged 31 years, 5 feet 2 inches high, stout built;has good teeth; no scars or blemishes about her face, or marks upon herperson. Speaks French, English, and Spanish. 

"JOSE ANTONIO LANONDO, "Corner St. Thomas and Basins Streets. "

"F2--6t. "

Against the powerful current of the "father of waters" we advanced atthe rate of more than 200 miles a day! It was consequently dark when wepassed Baton Rouge, 140 miles from New Orleans. Baton Rouge, now thecapital of Louisiana, is situated on the first "bluff, " or elevation, to be met with in ascending the river. The United States' Barracksthere are built, I am told, in a very fine style. 

February 10. --We began to feel the cold very keenly: the thermometerwas down at 46. In the middle of the day, we had to stop at an estateto take in a large quantity of sugar and molasses. The upper parts ofthe valley send down flour and provisions, getting from the lower sugarand molasses in return. This stoppage affording an opportunity of goingashore, I went to see the estate buildings; and though such buildingsas existing in Guiana were quite familiar to me, I was interested inobserving the difference. Those of Guiana are incomparably superior;but _these_ are the result of a better policy. Ours are too large andtoo expensive; these are rude, simple, and cheap, and yet answer thepurpose. Seeing slaves at work, I addressed several questions to one ofthem relative to the cultivation and manufacture of sugar, and receivedvery sensible and even _polite_ answers. 

By this time we had received an impression of the character of ourfellow-passengers. The mass of the "gentlemen" were rude and filthybeyond expression. The promenade or gallery outside, which might bevery pleasant, was bespattered all over with vile expectoration. Nolady could venture there with safety. The men will persist in spittingon the floor, when it would be quite as convenient to spit into thewater. Many of the names of places on the route ending in _ville_, --asDonaldsonville, Francisville, Iberville, Nashville, &c. , --I could nothelp asking if we had not many passengers from _Spitville_. But thiswas not the worst feature in the character of our fellow-travellers, who comprised gamblers, fighters, swearers, drunkards, "soul drivers, "and everything base and bad. Of these, we had about fifty as cabinpassengers; but there were upwards of a hundred deck passengersbelow--not above, --and they were ten times worse. Among men so muchresembling demons I had never before been. However, my wife being withme, I had the _entrée_ of the ladies' cabin. This was the abode ofquiet and decency, there being but three other ladies besides. Ofthese, one had her husband with her, a respectable farmer fromPennsylvania, who shipped all his last year's produce in a flat boat, came down in it with his wife, sold his cargo in New Orleans, boughtthere what he might want during the year, and was now on his way homeagain by steam. Another lady, who was from Philadelphia, had come allthe way to New Orleans in the hope of having a last glance of herhusband before he was ordered off to Mexico, --was just too late, --andwas returning home alone, with a heavy heart and an anxious mind. Thethird lady was a German girl from Baden, who had lived in New Orleansfor three years, and was now on her way to Cincinnati to see herbrother. We had also the boat's washer-woman, an old lady from NewEngland, who sat in the ladies' cabin with as much composure as if shethought herself quite as good as any of the rest. Such is Americansociety! So terribly afraid are they of anything that looks likearistocracy, except towards the coloured people!

I found on board a Baptist minister from the State of Maine, in NewEngland, a thorough anti-slavery man. His testimony against the Southon this subject was strong. He had lately been on a visit to a brotherminister of his own denomination in North Carolina. At first, wheneverthe New Englander desired to go into the yard, it was necessary for hisreverend brother to accompany him, and introduce him to a number oflarge dogs; otherwise they would have worried him. 

These animals were kept to prevent his reverence's slaves from runningaway, and to hunt them if they did. And yet, as my travelling companionassured me, this reverend slave-holder gravely and patheticallycomplained of the reluctance of the slaves to attend family worship!

LETTER XII. 

Voyage up the Mississippi (continued)--"Patriarchal" Establishments--TheRed River--Elder Wright--Lynch-Law administered by a Preacher--Natchez--Story of Mary Brown--The Flat Boats of the Mississippi. 

On the 10th of February we passed a great many sugar estates on bothsides of the river, which would be agreeable objects but for the curseof slavery. For who can look with pleasure upon the foul abodes oflust, oppression, and cruelty? At the outer gate, in front of one ofthese "patriarchal" establishments, was a small octagonal buildingabout 6 or 8 feet in mean diameter. The basement was of brick, piercedby small air holes, barred with iron, at the height of about 8 feetfrom the ground; and the upper part was of wood, terminating in apigeon-house. Making a short stay there to take in fire-wood, weinquired into the use of the building; but all the answer we could getwas, that it was a "pigeon-house. " The Baptist minister from Maineasked a negro, who was helping to bring wood on board; and from him helearned the real truth, --that it was a place of punishment and torturefor the oppressed slave. We have since ascertained that such buildingsare very common, and generally pass under the euphemistic name of"pigeon-houses. "

On the 11th of February--a fine frosty day--we came to Red River, branching on our left in the direction of Texas, with which country itforms an important means of communication. This river, even where itpours its waters into the Mississippi, is not more than from 300 to 500feet wide, and yet is navigable by steamers for about 1, 200 miles. MyBaptist friend had recently been on a visit to Elder Wright, a planterand a slave-holder on that river. This Wright was a New-England man, had graduated at Yale College, and boasted that he was "a Northern manwith Southern feelings. " He was called Elder Wright because he was apreacher, --the Baptists here calling all preachers "elders. " Now, thisElder Wright told my friend that a few years ago there was great fearin his district of the slaves rising up against their masters. To thisthey were supposed to be instigated by the presence and influence ofsome strangers. Under this apprehension, a secret committee was formedto seize and try every suspected stranger, and, if he could not clearhimself to their satisfaction, to "hang him up quietly. " Of this secretand murderous committee Elder Wright--an _alumnus_ of Yale College, aprofessor of religion, and a preacher of the gospel--was chosenchairman; and the statement I have just made came in the way describedfrom his own lips! It is notorious that in the South they think nothingof taking away a man's life, if he be even suspected of sympathy withthe slave; and a country so thinly inhabited affords abundantopportunities of doing it as "quietly" as can be desired. America isindeed a land of "liberty!"

At night we came to Natchez, a town beautifully situated on the top ofa hill, about 300 feet above the level of the river, and for thisreason called "Natchez-on-the-Hill. " Its population is about 5, 000; andit is the largest town in the State of Mississippi. Its distance fromNew Orleans is 300 miles. Darkness had set in when we approached it;yet the numerous lights on shore, rising row above row to a greatelevation, gave it a lively and interesting appearance. But, alas!Natchez also is a great slave market; and I can never think of itwithout remembering the sufferings of poor Mary Brown. Let me narrateher painful story. It may waken in some breast a feeling of sympathyfor the American slave. 

Mary Brown, a coloured girl, was the daughter of _free_ parents inWashington city--the capital of the freest nation under heaven! Shelived with her parents till the death of her mother. One day, when shewas near the Potomac Bridge, the sheriff overtook her, and told herthat she must go with him. She inquired what for? He made no reply, buttold her to come along, and took her immediately to a slave-auction. Mary told him she was free; but he contradicted her, and the saleproceeded. The auctioneer soon sold her for 350 dollars to aMississippi trader. She was first taken to jail; and after a few hourswas handcuffed, chained to a _man-slave_, and started in a drove ofabout forty for New Orleans. Her handcuffs made her wrists swell somuch that at night they were obliged to take them off, and put fettersround her ankles. In the morning the handcuffs were again put on. Thusthey travelled for two weeks, wading rivers, whipped up all day, andbeaten at night if they had not performed the prescribed distance. Shefrequently waded rivers in her chains, with water up to her waist. Themonth was October, and the air cold and frosty. After she had travelledthus twelve or fifteen days, her arms and ankles had become so swollenthat she felt as if she could go no further. They had no beds, usuallysleeping in barns, sometimes out on the naked ground; and such were hermisery and pain that she could only lie and cry all night. Still shewas driven on for another week; and every time the trader caught hercrying he beat her, uttering fearful curses. If he caught her praying, he said, he would "give her _hell_. " Mary was a member of the MethodistChurch in Washington. There were several pious people in the company;and at night, when the driver found them melancholy and disposed topray, he had a fiddle brought, and made them dance in their chains, whipping them till they complied. Mary at length became so weak thatshe really could travel on foot no further. Her feeble frame wasexhausted, and sank beneath accumulated sufferings. She was seized witha burning fever; and the diabolical trader--not moved with pity, butonly fearing he should lose her--placed her for the remainder of theway in a waggon. Arriving at Natchez, they were all offered for sale. Mary, being still sick, begged she might be sold to a kind master. Sometimes she made this request in the hearing of purchasers, but wasalways insulted for it, and afterwards punished by her cruel master forher presumption. On one occasion he tied her up by the hands so thatshe could barely touch the floor with her toes. He kept her thussuspended a whole day, whipping her at intervals. In any other countrythis inhuman beast would have been tried for the greatest crime, shortof murder, that man can commit against woman, and transported for life. Poor Mary Brown was at length sold, at 450 dollars, as a house-servantto a wealthy man of Vicksburgh, who compelled her to cohabit with him, and had children by her, --most probably filling up the measure of hisiniquity by selling his own flesh. Wrongs like these must have inspiredour poet when he exclaimed, --

"To think that man--them just and gentle God--Should stand beforeThee with a tyrant's rod O'er creatures like himself, with souls fromThee, Yet dare to boast of perfect liberty! Away! away! I 'd ratherhold my neck In doubtful tenure from a sultan's beck, In climes whereLiberty has scarce been named, Nor any right but that of rulingclaimed, Than thus to live where bastard Freedom waves Her fustian flagin mockery over slaves!"

As we advanced, we continually met with flat boats, laden with produce, and floating sluggishly down. In the vernacular phrase, these boats arecalled "Kentucky flats, " or "broad-horns. " They are curiouslyconstructed. At a distance, they appear like large chests or trunksafloat. They are from 50 to 100 feet long, and generally about 15 or 20feet wide. The timbers of the bottom are massive beams. The sides areboarded up square to the height of 6 feet above the water; the roofbeing slightly curved, like a trunk lid, to throw off rain. They areadapted to carry from 200 to 400 barrels. Great numbers of cattle, hogs, and horses are conveyed to market in them. Coals, too, are thusbrought down from the upper parts of the valley. Some of these bargeshave apartments fitted up for the accommodation of a family, with astove, beds, tables, &c. You may sometimes see in them ladies, servants, cows, horses, sheep, dogs, and poultry, --all floating on thesame bottom. It was precisely in this fashion that the Pennsylvanianfarmer and his wife had reached New Orleans. Indeed, most of ourfellow-passengers had come as captains or crews of flat boats. Ofcourse, no attempt is made to get these unwieldy boats back against thecurrent. It would be impracticable. The flat boat makes but one tripduring its individual existence. Arrived at New Orleans, it is sold for"lumber, " and taken to pieces. In short, by this arrangement timber andproduce are brought to market at the same time, the "stuff" of whichthe float is composed being but little injured. One cannot look atthese temporary structures without being impressed with the vastimportance of those water-powers which the Americans, with a wonderfultact, bring to bear in the way of saw-mills on the exhaustlessresources of the forest. The very first thing looked for in settling anew district is water-power. 

These flats, though destined for but a single voyage, sometimes do notreach their port, --seldom without more or less of danger, --and neverwithout infinite toil' They usually carry but three or four hands. Their form and gravity render them very unmanageable. Lying flat anddead in the water, with square timbers below their bottom planks, theyoften run on a sandbank with a strong head-way, and bury their timbersin the soil. To get them afloat again is a great labour. Sometimes theyrun upon a "snag, " and are instantly swallowed up with all their crewand all their cargo. Sometimes a steamer runs into one of them, andproduces a catastrophe equally fatal to both. But all the toils, anddangers, and exposures connected with the long and perilous voyage of aflat boat, do not appear to the passer-by. As you cut along by thepower of steam, the flat boat seems anything but a place of toil orcare. One of the hands scrapes a violin, while the others dance. Affectionate greetings, or rude defiances, or trials of wit, orproffers of love to the girls on shore, or saucy messages pass betweenthem and the spectators along the bank, or on the steam-boat. Yet, knowing the dangers to which they were really exposed, the sight ofthem often brought to my remembrance an appropriate verse of Dr. Watts:--

"Your streams were floating me along Down to the gulf of black despair;And, whilst I listened to your song, Your streams had e'en conveyed me there. "

These boats, however, do not venture to travel by night; consequently, at any good landing-place on the Mississippi, you may see towardsevening a large number of them assembled. They have come from regionsthousands of miles apart. They have never met before, --they willprobably never meet again. The fleet of flats covers, perhaps, asurface of several acres. "Fowls are fluttering over the roofs asinvariable appendages. The piercing note of the chanticleer is heard. The cattle low. The horses trample as in their stables. The swinescream, and fight with each other. The turkeys jobble. The dogs of ahundred regions become acquainted. The boatmen travel about from boatto boat, to make inquiries and form acquaintances. " It is a world inminiature. 

LETTER XIII. 

Voyage up the Mississippi (continued)--Grand Gulph and Big BlackRiver--Snags--"I belong to myself, Sir"--Vicksburg and Lynch Law--A ManOverboard--"Drove of Horses, Mules, and Niggers"--Character ofFellow-Passengers--The Sabbath--Disobedience to Conscience. 

We came on the 12th of February to the Grand Gulph and "Big BlackRiver. " The former is situated at the base of a bold and solitary"bluff. " Here, a few years ago, "a negro man was condemned by the _mob_to be _burned alive over a slow fire_, which was put into execution, for murdering a black woman and her master Mr. Green, a respectablecitizen of that place, who attempted to save her from the clutches ofthis monster. " Such is the newspaper version of the affair. Had thereal truth been stated, it would have appeared that this Green was the"_monster_, " who had seduced the wretched negro's wife!

The "Big Black River" is not so very "big" after all. It is extremelynarrow, although navigable for some hundreds of miles. 

Besides the danger of explosion--which, I apprehend, arises from"racing" and carelessness more than from any other cause--steam-boatson the "father of waters" are exposed to "snags. " These snags aretrunks of large trees that have become fastened in the bed of theriver, and are often found lying against the stream at angles of from30 to 40 degrees. As the river varies much with regard to the quantityof water in its channel, --frequently rising or falling from 6 to 12feet in a few hours, --these snags are sometimes so deep in the waterthat they can be passed over with safety; at other times, however, theyare but just covered. If a boat coming--especially down thestream--with high pressure and at full speed, making between twenty andthirty miles an hour, runs against one of these firmly-fixed, immoveable snags, it sustains a fearful shock. Not unfrequently a largehole is thus made in the bottom; and boat, cargo, crew, passengers, andall, sink in an instant. The danger is greatly increased by fogs, oftenso dense that the helmsman, though situated on the hurricane-deck andover the fore part of the vessel, can see nothing before him. In such acase, wise and cautious men "lie to, " and wait till the mist hascleared off. 

May not these "snags" serve to remind us of certain characters andcircumstances with which we meet on the voyage of life? Who cannot callto mind many snags--men, rugged, stubborn, and contentious, --snags byall means to be avoided? D'Israeli was the snag of Peel--Russia was thesnag of Napoleon--Slavery is the snag of the Evangelical Alliance. 

On board our steamer was a fine black young man, who acted as barber, waiter, and man-of-all-work. Curious to know whether he was a slave ornot, I requested my friend from Maine to sound him. "To whom do youbelong?" said the Baptist. "I belong to myself, sir, " was the promptand dignified reply. "That's right, " I involuntarily exclaimed; "he isfree!" In answer to further questions, he told us that he was from NewOrleans, and had bought himself about two years before for 600 dollars. He could therefore truly say, "I belong to myself, sir!" Oh! that everyslave in America could say the same! But how monstrous, that a manshould have to pay to one of his fellow-men upwards of 120_l. _ sterlingin order to "own himself!" Land of liberty, forsooth!

In the evening we reached Vicksburg. This place, like nearly all otherplaces in this region, is deeply stained with deeds of violence andblood. A few years ago, a set of thieves and gamblers were here put todeath by Lynch law. "Gentlemen of property and standing laughed the law(the constitutional law) to scorn, rushed to the gamblers' house, putropes round their necks, dragged them through the streets, hanged themin the public square, and thus saved the sum they had not yet paid. Thousands witnessed this wholesale murder; yet of the scores of legalofficers present, not a soul raised a finger to prevent it: the wholecity consented to it, and thus aided and abetted it. How many hundredsof them helped to commit the murders with their own hands does notappear; but not one of them has been indicted for it, and no one madethe least effort to bring them to trial. Thus, up to the present hour, the blood of those murdered men rests on that whole city; and it willcontinue to be a CITY OF MURDERERS so long as its citizens agreetogether to shield those felons from punishment. "

Darkness had covered the city of blood when we arrived, and thereforewe could not see it. One of the passengers, in stepping on a plank togo ashore, fell into the water. It was a frightful sight to see thedark figure of a fellow-man splattering and holloing in so perilous aposition. Seldom can a person be saved who falls into the Mississippi, so rapid is the current; and, moreover, the banks are so steep that, though he be a good swimmer, he cannot get up. The knowledge of thesefacts generally destroys in the person who falls in all hope andself-command. Fortunately, however, in the present instance a rope wasinstantly thrown out, and the individual was saved. He assured us, afterwards, that some one had designedly pushed him from the plank intothe water. 

On the 13th of February we breasted a small settlement on our left, called Providence, in Louisiana. We observed on the river's bank what aman at my elbow (a professor of religion, who had discovered a greatpropensity to talk about his religious experience before gamblers)coolly designated "a drove of horses, mules, and niggers. " Observe theorder of his enumeration! Of the "niggers" there were about 100, smalland great, young and old, and of both sexes. The whole "drove" werewaiting to be shipped for the New Orleans market, and were jealouslyguarded by several large dogs. From individual instances like this, onemay form a clearer notion of the internal slave-trade of America. Thousands every year are thus brought down the Mississippi to supplythe Natchez and New Orleans markets. "Those who are transported downthe Mississippi, " says a manual of American slavery, "are stowed awayon the decks of steam-boats, males and females, old and young, usuallychained, subject to the jeers and taunts of the passengers andnavigators, and often by bribes or threats, or by the lash, madesubject to abominations not to be named. " On the same deck, you may seehorses and human beings tenants of the same apartments, and going tosupply the same market. The _dumb_ beasts, being less manageable, areallowed the first place; while the _human_ are forced into sparecorners and vacant places. My informant saw one trader who was takingdown to New Orleans 100 horses, some sheep, and between fifty and sixtyslaves. The sheep and the slaves occupied the same deck. Manyinteresting and intelligent women were of the number. I could relatefacts concerning the brutal treatment of these defenceless females, while on the downward passage, which would kindle the hot indignationof every mother, and daughter, and sister in Old England. The slavesare carried down in companies, varying in number from 20 to 500. Men ofconsiderable capital are engaged in the traffic. Go into the principaltowns on the Mississippi, and you will find these negro traders in thebar-rooms boasting of their adroitness in driving human flesh, anddescribing the process by which they succeed in "_taming down_ thespirit of a _refractory_ negro. " Here, then, were human beings, children of our common Father, bone of our bone, and flesh of ourflesh, classed with the brutes that perish, --nay, degraded below them, and placed under the surveillance of dogs. The horrors of such a systemit is impossible to exaggerate. 

The majority of our fellow-passengers did nothing but gamble, eat, drink, smoke, and spit, from morning till night. In the afternoon adispute arose between two of them about ten dollars, which the onemaintained he had won from the other. One of the two quickly drew outhis Bowie knife, and would certainly have stabbed the other but for theintervention of the boat's officers. When the whites have so littlehesitation in shedding each other's blood, we cannot be surprised atthe indifference with which negro life is put an end to. "A rencontretook place last week, " says the _New Orleans Delta_, "between theoverseer of Mr. A. Collins (a planter in our vicinity) and one of thenegroes. It seems the overseer wished to chastise the negro for someoffence, and the negro resisted and struck the overseer with a spade. The overseer grappled with him, and called some of the negroes to hisassistance; but, perceiving that the negroes were not willing to assisthim, he drew his knife, and stabbed the negro to the heart. A coroner'sinquest has been held, and a verdict given in accordance with thecircumstances, declaring the overseer justifiable. "

The 14th of February was Sunday. My Baptist friend, when engaging hispassage, had given the captain a hint that, when the Sabbath came, heshould like to have divine service on board. Nothing, however, was nowsaid about it. Not, I think, that the officers of the boat would havedisliked it; but, considering the general character of theirpassengers, they perhaps thought it would have been only "castingpearls before swine. " One passenger indeed, who _said_ he was aCongregationalist, expressed to my friend a wish to have worship; buthe was playing at cards every day, and was in other respects no greatcredit to Congregationalism. The Baptist assured me that his countrymentoo generally, when they travel, leave their religion behind!

The Baptist related to me an awful story respecting a captain with whomhe had sailed from New England to Guadaloupe, and thence to NewOrleans. This man belonged to my friend's congregation, and professedto have been "converted" under his ministry. His pastor had frequentoccasion to reprove him for his disregard of the Sabbath at sea. In NewOrleans he engaged to take a cargo of Government stores to Tampico, forthe supply of the army. He had to sign a bond to take in the cargo, andsail before a certain day, or forfeit the sum of 500 dollars. TheSabbath came. The pastor was at that time absent, on his visit to"Elder Wright" before mentioned, on the Red River. An agent of the"Bethel Union, " who was going round to invite seamen to the "Bethel"worship, invited the said captain and his men. He excused himself andhis crew on the plea that they had no time--were under contract--hadsigned a bond--and might forfeit 500 dollars, &c. "What!" said theagent, "not afford time to attend the worship of God" on his own day!"No, I really cannot--very sorry--what I have never done before--shouldlike to go"--was the faltering reply. "Well, " replied the agent withgreat solemnity, "God will soon call you to account for this. " "I knowHe will, " rejoined the captain with a downcast eye. The interviewended. The agent proceeded on his pious mission, and the captain totake in his cargo. The next morning, as he was looking over the side ofthe vessel to see how deep she was in the water, he fell overboard. Hisbody was never found. His watch, which had been left in the cabin, anda few other personal articles, the pastor was now taking with him tothe afflicted widow and family. 

LETTER XIV. 

Voyage up the Mississippi (continued)--The Arkansas--Treatment of theIndians--M. De Tocqueville--"Napoleon" and Lynch Law--Memphis, and itsAdvertisements--A Scene witnessed there--The Ohio--Nashville, and AmosDresser. 

At 4 o'clock P. M. Of February the 14th, we reached the mouth of theArkansas. This is a noble river, navigable for 2, 000 miles! Not twentyyears ago, the remnants of the four great Indian nations of thesouthern part of what is now the United States, amounting to about75, 000 souls, were urged to remove to the banks of this river, with anassurance of an undisturbed and permanent home. These four nations werethe Choctaws, the Chickasaws, the Creeks, and the Cherokees. They wereestablished upon a territory, which they occupied before the settlementof any Europeans in their vicinity, and which had been confirmed tothem by solemn treaties again and again. The Anglo-Americans of theStates of Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi were however annoyed attheir proximity, because it was unfavourable to the "peculiarinstitution" of America. Slaves occasionally made their escape to thesechildren of the forest, and found sympathy and succour. This would notdo. The Indians must be removed. But how was it to be accomplished?Annoy them; harass them; wrong them in every possible way, so that theymay be sickened with the place. Georgia, accordingly, first attemptedto establish a division line for the purpose of limiting the boundariesof the Cherokees. Then, in 1829, the State of Alabama divided the Creekterritory into counties, and subjected the Indian population to thepower of white magistrates. And, in 1830, the State of Mississippiassimilated the Chocktaws and Chickasaws to the white population, anddeclared that any one who should take the title of Chief should bepunished with a fine of 1, 000 dollars and a year's imprisonment. Underthese accumulated annoyances, the Cherokees, on the 18th of December, 1829, addressed to Congress the following powerful and touchingappeal:--

"By the will of our Father in heaven, the Governor of the whole world, the red man of America has become small, and the white man great andrenowned. When the ancestors of the people of the United States firstcame to the shores of America, they found the red man strong, though hewas ignorant and savage; yet he received them kindly, and gave them dryland to rest their weary feet. They met in peace, and shook hands intoken of friendship. Whatever the white man wanted and asked of theIndian, the latter willingly gave. At that time the Indian was thelord, and the white man the suppliant. But now the scene has changed. The strength of the red man has become weakness. As his neighboursincreased in numbers, his power became less and less; and now, of themany and powerful tribes who once covered the United States, only a feware to be seen, --a few whom a sweeping pestilence has left. Thenorthern tribes, who were once so numerous and powerful, are now nearlyextinct. Thus it has happened to the red man of America. Shall we, whoare remnants, share the same fate?"

"Oh, no!" was the response. "Beyond the great river Mississippi, " saidthe President to them in 1829, "where a part of your nation has gone, your Father has provided a country large enough for all of you; and headvises you to remove to it. There your white brothers will not troubleyou: they will have no claim to the land, and you can live upon it, youand your children, as long as the grass grows or the water runs, inpeace and plenty. _It will be yours for ever_. "

With this assurance, many left the land of their birth and the homes oftheir childhood, travelled hundreds of miles, crossed the Mississippi, and settled on the banks of the Arkansas. M. De Tocqueville was"assured, towards the end of the year 1831, that 10, 000 Indians hadalready gone to the shores of the Arkansas, and fresh detachments wereconstantly following them. " Many, however, were unwilling to be thusexpatriated. "The Indians readily discover, " says M. De Tocqueville, "that the settlement which is proposed to them is merely a temporaryexpedient. Who can assure them that they will at length be allowed todwell in peace in their new retreat? The United States pledgethemselves to the observance of the obligation; but the territory whichthey at present occupy was formerly secured to them by the most solemnoaths of Anglo-American faith. The American Government does not, indeed, rob them of their land, but it allows perpetual incursions tobe made upon them. In a few years the same white population which nowflocks around them, will track them to the solitudes of the Arkansas:they will then be exposed to the same evils, without the same remedies;and as the limits of the earth will at last fail them, their onlyrefuge is the grave. "

The views of this keen French philosopher were prophetic. In vain did Istrain my eyes, as we passed along, to discover any trace of theseIndians. Not one representative of those noble aborigines was to beseen. In 1836 Arkansas was constituted a State, and admitted into theUnion; and, if you look at a recent map of the United States, you willsee the "location" of these Indians marked, not in the State ofArkansas at all, but far--far beyond, towards the setting sun, in whatis called the "Western Territory, " where, indeed, the river Arkansashas its source. Nor will ten years pass away before they will be againdisturbed, and pushed further back. 

At the mouth of the Arkansas is a village called Napoleon, of which Ireceived, on authority not to be disputed, the following horribleaccount. A few years ago it was the head quarters of lawless and bloodymen. They fabricated base coin, gambled, robbed, murdered. To such apitch of wickedness had they arrived, and such a terror were they tothe whole country, that a party of men from Memphis (a city on theeastern side of the Mississippi, 180 miles up) took the law into theirown hands, armed themselves with deadly weapons, came down, scoured thecountry around, caught about fifty of the ringleaders, and put them todeath. Some they shot, --some they hanged, --and some they threw, tiedhand and foot, into the river. Of this dreadful tragedy no judicialnotice was ever taken!

February 15. --I had an attack of intermittent fever, and consequentlysaw nothing of the scenery around. At night the fog was so dense thatthe officers deemed it prudent to "lie to. "

February 16. --At 9 A. M. We were abreast of the city of Memphis, on theTennessee side of the river. Higher up there is Cairo. Theseslave-holders, who retain their fellow-men in worse than Egyptianbondage, seem to have a great partiality for Egyptian names. Memphis ispleasantly situated on high "bluffs, " and is a great point for theshipping of cotton. It does not, however, thrive by _honest_ industry. I obtained a copy of the _Daily Inquirer_ of that day, where--amongadvertisements of pianos, music, bonnets, shawls, &c. , for theladies--I found the following:--

"ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS REWARD. --Ran away from the subscriber, on the 20thof October last, two Negro Fellows of the following description. --Towit, --Evan, 25 years of age, about 5 feet 11 inches high, complexionblack, thick bristly beard, low soft voice, and apt to look down whenspoken to; has a large scar on the calf of one of his legs, caused bythe bite of a dog when he was 8 or 10 years old; some of his jaw-teethmissing or decayed. Ellis, 22 years of age, about 5 feet 11 incheshigh; complexion dark mulatto, tinged with Indian blood; beard thin andlight. From information derived from a brother of these boys, who wascaught in Washington County, Miss. , it appears they intended to applyfor employment as wood-choppers in the upper part of this State, untilthey could raise money enough to dress fine, then set off for the Stateof Illinois. It is highly probable they will resort to fictitiousnames, for the purpose of baffling pursuit. 

"The above reward will be paid to any person confining them in anyjail, so that I can get them again; or fifty dollars for either ofthem. 

"DUNCAN M'ALPIN. "

"SLAVE MARKET. --The subscribers have now, and will continue to keep onhand throughout the season, a large supply of choice Negroes, suited toevery capacity, which they offer at the lowest market rates. They haveagents abroad engaged in purchasing for them, which enables them to biddefiance to competition. 

"Depôt on Adams-street, between Main and Second Streets. 

"BOLTON & DICKINS. "

"JAILOR'S NOTICE. --Was committed to the jail of Shelby County, on 25thJanuary, a Negro Boy named Silas. He says he belongs to William Wise, of Fayette, County Tenne. He is about 30 years old, black complexion, about 5 feet 11 inches high; weighs about 165 lbs. The owner of saidNegro is requested to come and prove property, and pay charges, or hewill be dealt with according to law. 

"E. W. HARREL, "_Jailor_. "

"Feb. 13. --3tW. "

In connection with Memphis, M. De Tocqueville narrates the followingtouching incident, relative to the expatriation of the Indians, towhich I have already referred. "At the end of the year 1831, while Iwas on the left bank of the Mississippi, at a place named by EuropeansMemphis, there arrived a numerous band of Choctaws. These _savages_ [sohis American translator renders it] had left their country, and wereendeavouring to gain the right bank of the Mississippi, where theyhoped to find an asylum which had been promised them by the AmericanGovernment. It was the middle of winter, and the cold was unusuallysevere: the snow had frozen hard upon the ground, and the river wasdrifting huge masses of ice. The Indians had their families with them;and they brought in their train the wounded and the sick, with childrennewly born, and old men upon the verge of death. They possessed neithertents nor waggons, but only their arms and some provisions. I saw themembark to pass the mighty river, and never will that solemn spectaclefade from my remembrance! No cry, no sob was heard among the assembledcrowd: all were silent. Their calamities were of ancient date, and theyknew them to be irremediable. The Indians had all stepped into the barkthat was to carry them across, but their dogs remained upon the bank. As soon as these animals perceived that their masters were finallyleaving the shore, they set up a dismal howl, and, plunging alltogether into the icy waters of the Mississippi, they swam after theboat. " So much for Memphis and its associations!

February 18th, at 5 A. M. , we entered the Ohio River, and at 1 P. M. Themouth of the Tennessee; coming shortly afterwards to Smithland, at themouth of the Cumberland River, which runs parallel with the Tennessee, and communicates directly with Nashville, the capital of that State. This city also has its association of ideas. I cannot think of itwithout at the same time thinking of Amos Dresser. He was a student atLane Seminary (Dr. Beecher's), and subsequently a missionary toJamaica. In the vacation of 1835 he undertook to sell Bibles in theState of Tennessee, with a view to raise the means of continuing hisstudies for the ministry. Under suspicion of being an Abolitionist, hewas arrested by the "Vigilance Committee" (a Lynch-law institution), while attending a religious meeting in the neighbourhood of Nashville. After an afternoon and evening's inquisition, he was condemned toreceive twenty lashes with the cow-hide on his naked body. Between 11and 12 on Saturday night the sentence was executed upon him, in thepresence of most of the committee, and of an infuriated and blasphemingmob. The Vigilance Committee consisted of sixty persons. Of these, twenty-seven were members of churches: one was a religious teacher, andothers were _elders_ of the Presbyterian Church, --one of whom had a fewdays before offered Mr. Dresser the bread and wine at the Lord'sSupper. But let Amos Dresser himself describe the scene and thecircumstances. 

"I knelt down, " says he, "to receive the punishment, which wasinflicted by Mr. Braughton, the city officer, with a HEAVY COW-SKIN. When the infliction ceased, an involuntary thanksgiving to God, for thefortitude with which I had been enabled to endure it, arose in my soul, to which I began aloud to give utterance. The death-like silence thatprevailed for a moment was suddenly broken with loud exclamations, --'G--d d--n him! Stop his praying!' I was raised to myfeet by Mr. Braughton, and conducted by him to my lodgings, where itwas thought safe for me to remain but a few moments. 

"Among my triers was a great portion of the respectability ofNashville; nearly half of the whole number professors of Christianity, the reputed stay of the Church, supporters of the cause of benevolencein the form of tract and missionary societies and Sabbath-schools;several members and _most_ of the elders of the Presbyterian Church, from whose hands but a few days before I had received the emblems ofthe broken body and shed blood of our blessed Saviour!"

In relating this shameful circumstance, the editor of the _GeorgiaChronicle_, a professor of religion, said that Dresser "should havebeen hung up as high as Haman, to rot upon the gibbet until the windwhistled through his bones. The cry of the whole South should be death, _instant death_, to the Abolitionist, wherever he is caught. " What agreat and free country!

LETTER XV. 

Voyage up the Ohio (continued)--Illinois--Evansville--Owensborough--Indiana--New Albany--Louisville, and its Cruel Histories--The Graveof President Harrison--Arrival in Cincinnati--First Impressions--TheCongregational Minister--A Welsh Service. 

The Ohio, the "beautiful river, " is a magnificent stream formed by theconfluence at Pittsburg of the Allegany and Monongahela Rivers, and is1, 008 miles long, constituting the boundary of six States: Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois on the north, --all free States; and Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee on the south, --all slave States. A trip on thisriver, therefore, affords a fine opportunity for observing the contrastbetween slavery and freedom. 

The Ohio is the great artery through which the inland commerce of theEastern States flows into the valley of the Mississippi. In ascendingthis river, we had first on our left the State of Illinois. Thisterritory, which contains an area of 60, 000 square miles, was settledby the French in 1720, and was admitted into the Union in 1818. Itspopulation in 1810 was 12, 300; in 1840, 476, 180. It is now, probably, not far short of 1, 000, 000!

On the 19th of February, about noon, we arrived at Evansville, on theIndiana side of the river. This was the prettiest place we had yetseen; and its charms were enhanced by the assurance that it was freefrom the taint of slavery. The rise of this little town has been rapid. Its population is about 3, 000. Three "churches, " with their neat andgraceful spires, rising above the other buildings, were conspicuous inthe distance. 

At 5 P. M. We passed Owensborough, on the Kentucky side of the river. This, too, is a neat little town, with a proportionate number of placesof worship. Indeed, on every hand, places of worship appear to risesimultaneously with the young settlement. The free and efficientworking of the voluntary principle is the glory of America. Inreference to "church" accommodation, it everywhere appears to decidedadvantage compared to the most favoured parts of England. On thissubject Dr. Baird's book on Religion in America is very truthful. 

The fever left me on entering the Ohio, and returned no more, --a clearproof that this river is healthier than the Mississippi. The latter hasmuch fog and malaria, which tell quickly upon a constitution like mine, already predisposed by residence among the swamps of Guiana to feverand ague. 

As I have already intimated, we had now Indiana, a free State, on ourleft. This State is rapidly advancing in wealth and population. It wassettled by the French in 1730, and became an independent State in 1816. It has an area of 36, 840 square miles, being by two-fifths less thanits neighbour Illinois. Its population at the beginning of this centurywas only 5, 640; in 1840 it was 685, 860. It is now above a million! In1840 it produced upwards of four millions of bushels of wheat, andtwenty-eight millions of corn!

February 20. --The scenery was diversified. Hills covered with treesrose on either side. In the summer, when all is fresh and green, theremust be here scenes of loveliness and grandeur unsurpassed. At presentthe country had a cold and winterly aspect. It rained, too, the wholeday. At 3 P. M. We approached New Albany, on the Indiana side. It is aflourishing place, with from 5, 000 to 6, 000 inhabitants. Just abovethis town are some falls in the Ohio, that can seldom be ascended bysteamers, which therefore pass through a side canal, with locks, formed(through the superior influence of the slave-power) on the Kentucky orslave bank of the river. We had to pass through three locks, which havebeen very foolishly made too small to receive steamers of the largestclass in the navigation of the Ohio. Ours fortunately, not being ofthat class, could "go a-head. "

At 5 P. M. We got to Louisville, a city of about 30, 000 or 40, 000inhabitants, on the Kentucky side. This city is a great depot forslaves, whence they are shipped for the New Orleans market. By thismeans it has acquired a detestable notoriety. 

"A trader was about to start from Louisville, Kentucky, " says the_Anti-Slavery Record_, "with one hundred slaves for New Orleans. Amongthem were two women, with infants at the breast. Knowing that theseinfants would depreciate the value of the mothers, the trader sold themfor _one dollar each_. Another mother was separated from her sick childabout four or five years old. Her anguish was so great that shesickened and died before reaching her destination. "

Take another instance, on the same authority:--

"Not very long ago, in Lincoln County, Kentucky, a female slave wassold to a Southern slaver under most afflicting circumstances. She hadat her breast an infant boy three months old. The slaver did not wantthe child on any terms. The master sold the mother, and retained thechild. She was hurried away immediately to the depot at Louisville, tobe sent down the river to the Southern market. The last news myinformant had of her was that she was lying _sick_, in the mostmiserable condition, her breast having risen, inflamed, and _burst_!"

Let another case, testified by the Rev. C. S. Renshaw, add to the fameof this _infamous_ city. 

"Hughes and Neil traded in slaves down the river: they had bought up apart of their stock in the upper counties of Kentucky, and brought themdown to Louisville, where the remainder of their drove was in jailwaiting their arrival. Just before the steam-boat put off for the lowercountry, two negro women were offered for sale, each of them having achild at the breast. The traders bought them, took their babes fromtheir arms, and offered them to the highest bidder; and they were soldfor one dollar a piece, whilst the stricken parents were driven onboard the boats, and in an hour were on their way to the New Orleansmarket. You are aware that a young babe diminishes the value of a fieldhand in the lower country, while it enhances her value in the breedingStates. "

February 21. --Another dreary Sabbath on board. The principal objects ofinterest pointed out to us on that day were the residence and the tombof the late President Harrison. The latter is a plain brick erection, in the midst of a field on the top of a hill, about half a mile in therear of the former. The recollection of that man, so highly elevated, and so quickly cut down, could hardly fail to suggest a train of notunprofitable reflections. He was, I suppose, a moral and well-meaningman, distinguished for qualities not often to be found in high places;but I was sorry to be obliged to infer that much of what I had heardrespecting the _religiousness_ of his character wanted confirmation. 

At half-past 4 P. M. We arrived at the long-wished-for Cincinnati--the"Queen of the West. " Our voyage from New Orleans had thus occupiedtwelve days, during which time we had been boarded and lodged, as wellas conveyed over a space of 1, 550 miles, for 12 dollars each, or onedollar per diem! It was the cheapest, and (apart from thecompanionships) the most pleasant mode of travelling we had everexperienced. As the boat stayed but a couple of hours at Cincinnati, wehad to land without delay. Being a stranger in a strange land, Iinquired for the Congregational minister, and was told that his namewas Boynton. In perambulating the streets in search of his house, I waspleased to see but one shop open. It was a tailor's, and, as Iafterwards learned, belonged to a Jew, who closed it on Saturdays, thelaw of the State compelling all to close their shops one day in theweek. In every street, we were struck with the glorious liberty enjoyedby the pigs. On all hands, the swinish multitude were seen luxuriatingin unrestricted freedom. Mr. Boynton, who received us kindly, did notknow of any place where we could be accommodated with private board andlodging, but promised to make inquiry that evening. He was a man ofabout forty years of age, wearing on the Sabbath, and even in thepulpit (as most American ministers do), a black neckerchief, andshirt-collar turned down over it. That night we had to go to an hotel, and were recommended to the Denison House, which we found pretty cheapand comfortable. But the American hotels are not, in point of comfort, to be compared for a moment to those of Old England. My wife was tootired to go out in the evening; and unwilling for my own part to closethe Sabbath without going to some place of public worship, I thought Iwould try to find the sanctuary of "my brethren--my kinsmen accordingto the flesh"--the Welsh. Following the directions I had received, Iarrived at the top of a certain street, when I heard the sound ofsacred song; but I could not tell whether it was Welsh or not, norexactly whence it came. As I stood listening, an overgrown boy came by, of whom I inquired, "Where does that singing come from?"--"I _guess_ itcomes from a church down below there. " "Is it a Welsh Church?"--"Ican't tell, but I _guess_ it is. " "Well, then, " I rejoined, "I _guess_I will go and see. " I turned, and the youth "guessed" he would followme. I got to the door. The singing had not ceased. It _was_ Welsh--thelanguage in which I had first heard "_Am Geidwad i'r Colledig!_"[1] Howinteresting in the "Far West" to hear sounds so sweet and so familiarto my childhood! None but those who have experienced can tell the charmof such an incident. The minister was in the pulpit. His dress and hairwere very plain, and his complexion was extremely dark. He wasevidently a Welshman: there was no mistake about it: his gravity, plainness, attitude--all told the fact. I ventured forward, and walkedalong to the stove, which to me was an object of agreeable attraction. Around the stove were two or three chairs. A big aristocratic-lookingWelshman, a sort of a "Blaenor, " who occupied one of these chairs, invited me to take another that was vacant. The eyes of all in thesynagogue were upon me. My "guessing" informant had followed me eventhere, though he evidently understood not a word of Welsh. The buildingwas about 40 feet by 35, without galleries, and was about two-thirdsfull. The pulpit was fitted up in the platform style--the "genuine"American mode. The text was, "How shall we escape, if we neglect sogreat a salvation?" The sermon was good and faithful. The audience--themen on one side of the chapel, and the women on the other--did notexcite much interest. The men, especially, were among the worst hearersI had ever seen. I felt ashamed of my countrymen. The spitting wasincessant, and attended with certain unmentionable circumstances whichrender it most disgusting and offensive. What a contrast to my ownclean and comely congregation of black and coloured people in NewAmsterdam! In about twenty minutes after the preacher had begun hissermon, one-half of the men had their heads down, resting on both armsfolded on the tops of the pews before them. Whether they were asleep ornot, the attitude was that of deep sleep. This behaviour was grosslyrude, --to say nothing of the apathetic state of mind which itindicated. I wondered how the preacher could get on at all, with suchhearers before him. I am sorry to say that the Welsh too frequentlymanifest a great want of decorum and devotion in their religiousassemblies. This is telling, and will tell, against dissent in thePrincipality. 

[Footnote 1: Literally, "Of a Saviour for the lost. "]

LETTER XVI. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--Close of the Welsh Service--TheGovernor of Ohio and his Relatives--The "Black Laws"--Governor Bebb'sHostility to them--Dr. Weed and American Versatility--PrivateLodgings--Introduction to Dr. Beecher and others--A Peep at aDemocratic Meeting. 

The Welsh service being ended, my big friend on the next chair askedme, in the same language, if I was a _llafarwr_ (preacher). I answeredhim in the usual Welsh phrase, "_Byddaf yn dweyd ychydig weithiau_, "which means that I did a little in that way. On learning this, hedesired my "_cyhoeddiad_" (publication--another Welsh phrase) to preachthere some night during the coming week; and he wished it to beannounced there and then, to which I would not consent. He introducedme to Mr. Jones, the minister. After most of the congregation weregone, a groupe, including my big friend and Mr. Jones, collected aroundme, and most earnestly pressed for my "publication. " I told them I hadnever been a Welsh preacher, that it was nearly five-and-twenty yearssince I had left the Principality, and that, moreover, _I could not_preach at all to men who put down their heads in the sluggish andsleepy manner in which most of their men had done that night. "Oh! butthey won't do so when you, a stranger, preach, " was the reply. "Then, "I said, "there must be a great want of true devotion among them, ifthat would make all the difference. " However, being much pressed, Ipromised at last to give them, before I left the city, a littlemissionary information in Welsh. 

The name of my big friend was Bebb, a near relative, as I subsequentlylearned, of His Excellency W. Bebb, the present Governor of the Stateof Ohio. The history of this Governor deserves a passing notice. He isthe nephew of the late Rev. John Roberts, of Llanbrynmair, a man ofgreat worth and usefulness, whose praise is in all the CongregationalChurches of North Wales. Mr. Roberts, when a young man, joined theChurch at Llanbrynmair, began to preach under its sanction, became itspastor, sustained that office for thirty-six years, and is succeeded byhis two excellent sons, Samuel and John, as co-pastors! Towards theclose of last century, Mr. Roberts's sister, married to a Mr. Bebb, emigrated to America; as did also his brother George, who stillsurvives, and of whom Dr. Matheson gives an interesting account in theseventh letter of the second volume of "Reed and Matheson's Narrative, "calling him "_Judge_ Roberts, the _Pastor_ of the CongregationalChurch!" at Ebensburg, in Pennsylvania. 

Mrs. Bebb was soon left a widow, with two sons, William and Evan. But"the Judge of the widow" and "the Father of the fatherless" did notforsake her. She is a woman of a strong mind and great piety, and athorough hater of slavery and oppression in all their forms. Her ownprinciples she endeavoured to instil into the minds of her sons, sparing no efforts to fit them for acting a useful and honourable partin society. William was brought up to the law, and Evan to commerce. And now, in the evening of her days, the pious old Welsh-woman has thegratification of seeing Evan an enterprising and successful merchant inNew York, while William enjoys the highest honour that hisfellow-citizens of Ohio can confer upon him! He is the Governor of aterritory of nearly 40, 000 square miles, and a population of 2, 000, 000. Mr. Jones, the minister, is intimately acquainted with Mrs. Bebb, whocarefully instructed her distinguished son in the good old language ofWales, so that, at the time of his recent canvass for office, he wasable to address the Cambrian portion of his constituency in theirmother tongue. 

On entering into office, he declared his determined opposition to the"black laws" of Ohio. Those "black laws" are black indeed. They are thefoul blot of this otherwise honoured State. One of them is intended toprevent the coloured citizens of other States from removing to Ohio. Itwas enacted in 1807, and is to this effect, --that within twenty daysafter the entrance of an emigrant into the State, he is to find twofreehold sureties in the sum of 500 dollars for his _good behaviour_, and likewise for his _maintenance_, should he, at any future period, beunable to maintain himself. The Legislature well knew that it would beutterly impossible, generally speaking, for a _black_ or _coloured_stranger to find such securities. In 1800 there were only 337 freeblacks in the territory; but in 1830, notwithstanding the "black laws, "there were 9, 500. A large portion of them entered in entire ignoranceof this iniquitous law, and some perhaps in bold defiance of it. But ithas by no means remained a dead letter. In 1829 a very general effortwas made to enforce it, --about 1, 000 free blacks being driven from theState, to take refuge in the more free and Christian country of Canada. Sir J. Colebrook, the Governor of Upper Canada, said to the coloureddeputation that waited upon him, "Tell the _Republicans_ on your sideof the line that we Royalists do not know men by their colour. Shouldyou come to us, you will be entitled to all the privileges of the restof His Majesty's subjects. " A noble sentiment! and one calculated tomake a "_Britisher_" proud of his country, particularly since theabolition of slavery in our other colonies. At the time these peoplewere thus driven away, the State of Ohio contained but 23 inhabitantsto one square mile!

In 1838 official notice was given to the inhabitants of the town ofFairfield, in Ohio, that all "black or mulatto persons" residing therewere to comply with the requirements of the law of 1807 within twentydays, or it would be enforced against them. The proclamation addressesthe _white_ inhabitants in the following remarkable terms: "Whites, look out! If any person or persons _employing_ any black or mulattoperson, contrary to the 3rd section of this law, you may look out forthe breakers!"

At the very time I was in Ohio an attempt was made, in Mercer County, to eject by force a number of inoffensive black people. Originallyslaves in Virginia, they had been liberated by the will of their latemaster, and located on a suitable quantity of land which he had securedfor them. But the magnanimous and liberty-boasting Americans would notallow them to enjoy their little settlement unmolested; and it wasextremely doubtful whether the Governor would be able to protect themfrom outrage. 

In 1839 a number of coloured inhabitants of Ohio addressed a respectfulpetition to the Legislature, praying for the removal of certain legaldisabilities under which they were labouring. The answer was a denial, not merely of the _prayer_ of the petition, but of the very _right_ ofpetition! "Resolved, that the blacks and mulattoes who may be residentswithin this State have no constitutional right to present theirpetitions to the General Assembly for any purpose whatsoever; and thatany reception of such petitions on the part of the General Assembly isa mere act of privilege or policy, and not imposed by any expressed orimplied power of the Constitution!"

But the _blackest_ of these black laws is the following: "That no blackor mulatto person or persons shall hereafter be permitted to be sworn, or give evidence in any court of record or elsewhere in this State, inany cause depending, or matter of controversy, when either party to thesame is a _white_ person; or in any prosecution of the State againstany _white_ person!"

Under such a law a white man may with perfect impunity defraud or abusea negro to any extent, provided that he is careful to avoid thepresence of any of his own caste at the execution of his contract, orthe commission of his crime!

To these "black laws" Governor Bebb has avowed an uncompromisinghostility; but the first session of the State Legislature after hiselection had just closed, and the black laws were still in force. Mr. Bebb was not sufficiently supported in his just and humane intentionsto enable him to carry those intentions out. I was assured, however, bythose who knew him well, that he was only "biding his time, " being asdetermined as ever to wipe away from the statute-book every remnant ofthese foul enactments. If he succeed, the poor old Welsh-woman, in herobscurity and widowhood, will have rendered an important service to thecause of humanity and justice. Let mothers think of this, and beencouraged!

The day after our arrival in Cincinnati, being the 22nd of February, weobtained, by the aid of Dr. Weed (one of Mr. Boynton's deacons), asuitable private lodging. Dr. Weed in early life studied for themedical profession, and graduated in physic. Afterwards he spent someyears as a missionary among the Indians. Now he is a bookseller, publisher, and stationer in Cincinnati, affording an illustration ofthat versatility for which the Americans are distinguished. "Men are tobe met with, " says M. De Tocqueville, (and the present writer hashimself seen many instances, ) "who have successively been barristers, farmers, merchants, ministers of the Gospel, and physicians. If theAmerican be less perfect in each craft than the European, at leastthere is scarcely any trade with which he is utterly unacquainted. " Ihave heard of a man in New York, who, having tried the ministry andcompletely failed, wisely judged that that was not the way in which hecould best serve God, and turned to commerce. He is now a substantialmerchant, and supports five other men to preach the Gospel; each ofwhom, he is wont to say, does it much better than he could ever havedone. 

The lodging which Dr. Weed kindly found us was at the house of theMisses M'Pherson, five Quaker sisters, living together. It was cleanand respectable, --the cheapest and most comfortable lodging we hadhitherto met with. The table was bountifully supplied with excellentand well-cooked provisions; for which the charge was only 4 dollarseach per week, and half-a-dollar for fuel, making altogether only 9dollars for us both. Of the kindness and hospitality of these ladies weshall always retain a grateful remembrance. 

In the afternoon I had the honour of being introduced to Dr. Beecher, Dr. Stowe, Professor Allen, and several other Presbyterian ministers ofthe New School. They were assembled for fraternal intercourse in thevestry of one of the "churches. " I was struck with the sallowness oftheir complexions, and the want of polish in their manners. Dr. Beecherinvited me to go up some day to see Lane Seminary, about two miles off. To this invitation I readily acceded. I was greatly interested in thisveteran, of whose fame I had so often heard. 

February 23rd. --In the evening, I went to a meeting of the Democraticparty in the town-hall, thinking it would afford me a good opportunityfor observing American manners. The place was full; and when I arrived, a gentleman was addressing the meeting with great vehemence of tone andgesture. His speech consisted of innumerable changes rung on thesentiment--"There must be a vigorous prosecution of the war againstMexico. " But I must reserve any further account of this meeting for mynext letter. 

LETTER XVII. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The Democratic Meeting--A Visit to LaneSeminary--"Public Declamation"--Poem on War--Essay on Education. 

In resuming my notice of the Democratic meeting, let me observe thatthe Democratic party in America is not very reputable. It is the warparty, the pro-slavery party, the mob party, and, at present, thedominant party, --the party, in fine, of President Polk. It had justbeen aroused to the highest pitch of indignation, by a telling speechdelivered in Congress against the Mexican War by Thomas Corwin, Esq. , one of the Ohio senators. This meeting, then, was intended as ademonstration in favour of Polk and his policy; but it turned out amiserable failure. 

When the blustering speaker who "had the floor" when I entered satdown, the "president" (for they do not say the chairman) rose, amidst atremendous storm of favourite names, uttered simultaneously by allpresent at the top of their voices, and, as soon as he could be heard, said it had been moved and seconded that So-and-so, Esq. , be requestedto address the meeting: those who were in favour of that motion were tosay "Ay, "--those against it, "No. " One great "Ay" was then uttered bythe mass, and a few "Noes" were heard. The "_Ayes"_ had it. But anunforeseen difficulty occurred. So-and-so, Esq. , either was not there, or would not speak. Amidst deafening noise again, the president rose, and said it had been moved and seconded that John Brough, Esq. , berequested to address the meeting. "Ay"--"No;" but the "Ayes" had it. "Now, John Brough, " said a droll-looking Irishman, apparently ahod-carrier, who was at my elbow, --

 "Now, John Brough, Out with the stuff. "

Here was Paddy on the western side of the Allegany Mountains, with hisnative accent and native wit as fresh and unimpaired as if he had butjust left his green isle, and landed on one of the quays at Liverpool. But John Brough again declined the honour conferred upon him! Then itwas moved and seconded and "ayed" that So-and-so, Esq. , be requested toaddress the meeting, but _he_ also was not forthcoming! _Nildesperandum_. It was moved and seconded and "ayed" that--Callaghan, Esq. , be requested to address the meeting. After some hesitation, and areference to his own "proverbial modesty, " he proceeded to foam, andstamp, and thump, and bluster for "the vigorous prosecution of thewar, " till the American eagle should "stretch his wings over the hallsof the Montezumas. " At this stage of the proceedings, the spitting andsmoke had become so offensive that I was compelled to retire; and I didso with no very high notions of the intelligence and respectability ofthe American democrats. 

The next day being fine and frosty, and the roads hard, I set off inthe morning to pay my intended visit to Lane Seminary. I found it along two miles, all up hill. The seminary itself, the building in whichthe students are accommodated, is a large plain brick edifice, fourstories high, besides the basement-story, and has very much theappearance of a small Lancashire factory. It is 100 feet long by about40 feet wide, and contains 84 rooms for students. The situation ispleasant, and at a nice distance from the roadside. A large bell wasbeing tolled awkwardly when I arrived. It was 11 o'clock A. M. I foundthe front door thrown wide open, with every indication of its beingentered by all comers without the least ceremony--not even that ofwiping the shoes. There was neither door-bell nor knocker, scraper normat; and the floor of the lobby seemed but slightly acquainted with thebroom, --to say nothing of the scrubbing-brush. It looked like the floorof a corn or provision warehouse. I had no alternative but to venturein. Immediately after, there entered a young man with a fowling-piece, whom before I had seen at a little distance watching the movements of aflock of wild pigeons. I took him for a sportsman; but he was a youngdivine! I asked him if Dr. Beecher was about. He replied that heguessed not, but he would be at the lecture-room in a few minutes, forthe bell that had just tolled was a summons to that room. "Does theDoctor, then, " said I, "deliver a lecture this morning?"--"No, it is_declamation_ this morning. " "Is it such an exercise, " I continued, "asa stranger may attend?"--"Oh, yes!" he replied; "it is _public_declamation. " He then directed me to the lecture-room. It was acrossthe yard, and under the chapel belonging to the institution. Thischapel is a very neat building, after the model of a Grecian temple, having the roof in front carried out and supported by sixwell-proportioned columns in the form of a portico. In a part of thebasement-story was the lecture-room in question. The students weremustering. By-and-by Dr. Stowe entered. He invited me to take a chairby his side, on a kind of platform. Professor Allen then came in, andafter him Dr. Beecher. The exercise began with a short prayer by Mr. Allen. He then called upon a Mr. Armstrong, one of the students, toascend the platform. The young man obeyed; and, somewhat abruptly andvehemently, rehearsed from memory a Poem on War. Suiting the action tothe words, he began--

 "_On_--to the glorious conflict--ON!"

It quite startled me! Soon afterwards I heard, --

 "And Montezuma's halls shall _ring_. "

What! (reasoned I) is this the sequel to the Democratic meeting of lastnight? Has Mars, who presided at the town-hall, a seat in thelecture-room of this Theological Seminary? As the young man proceeded, however, I perceived that his poem was, in fact, a denunciation of thehorrors of war, --not, as I had supposed, the composition of anotherperson committed to memory, and now rehearsed as an exercise inelocution, but entirely his own. It was altogether a creditableperformance. The Professors at the close made their criticisms upon it, which were all highly favourable. Dr. Beecher said, "My only criticismis, _Print it, print it_. " The venerable Doctor, with the naturalpartiality of a tutor, afterwards observed to me he had never heardanything against war that took so strong a hold of his feelings as thatpoem. Dr. Stowe also told me that Mr. Armstrong was considered a youngman of fine talents and great devotion; and that some of the studentshad facetiously said, "Brother Armstrong was so pious that even thedogs would not bark at him!"

Mr. Armstrong was not at all disposed to take his tutor's advice. Buthe favoured me with a copy of his poem, on condition that I would notcause it to be printed in America, --in England I might. It containssome turgid expressions, some halting and prosaic lines, and might beimproved by a severe revision; but, besides its interest as aTransatlantic college-exercise, I feel it possesses sufficient merit torelieve the tediousness of my own prose. 

"'_On_--to the glorious conflict--ON!'-- Is heard throughout the land, While flashing columns, thick and strong, Sweep by with swelling band. 'Our country, right or wrong, ' they shout, 'Shall still our motto he:With _this_ we are prepared to rout Our foes from sea to sea. Our own right arms to us shall bring The victory and the spoils;And Montezuma's halls shall ring, When there we end our toils. 'ON, then, ye brave' like tigers rage, That you may win your crown, Mowing both infancy and age In ruthless carnage down. Where flows the tide of life and light, Amid the city's hum, There let the cry, at dead of night, Be heard, 'They come, they come!'Mid scenes of sweet domestic bliss, Pour shells of livid fire, While red-hot balls among them hiss, To make the work entireAnd when the scream of agony Is heard above the din, _Then_ ply your guns with energy, And throw your columns inThro' street and lane, thro' house and church, The sword and faggot hear, And every inmost recess search, To fill with shrieks the airWhere waving fields and smiling homes Now deck the sunny plain, And laughter-loving childhood roams Unmoved by care or pain;Let famine gaunt and grim despair Behind you stalk along, And pestilence taint all the air With victims from the strongLet dogs from mangled beauty's cheeks The flesh and sinews tear, And craunch the bones around for weeks, And gnaw the skulls till bareLet vultures gather round the heaps Made up of man and beast, And, while the widowed mother weeps, Indulge their horrid feast, Till, startled by wild piteous groans, On dreary wings they rise, To come again, mid dying moans, And tear out glazing eyes_Tho'_ widows' tears, and orphans' cries, When starving round the spotWhere much-loved forms once met their eyes Which now are left to rot, With trumpet-tongue, for vengeance call Upon each guilty headThat drowns, mid revelry and brawls, Remembrance of the dead. _Tho'_ faint from fighting--wounded--wan, To camp you'll turn your feet, And no sweet, smiling, happy home, Your saddened hearts will greet:No hands of love--no eyes of light-- Will make your wants their care, Or soothe you thro' the dreary night, Or smooth your clotted hair. But crushed by sickness, famine, thirst, You'll strive in vain to sleep, Mid corpses mangled, blackened, burst, And blood and mire deep;While horrid groans, and fiendish yells, And every loathsome stench, Will kindle images of hell You'll strive in vain to quench. Yet _on_--press on, in all your might, With banners to the field, And mingle in the glorious fight, With Satan for your shield:For marble columns, if you die, _May_ on them bear your name;While papers, tho' they sometimes lie, Will praise you, or will blame. Yet woe! to those who build a house, Or kingdom, not by right, --Who in their feebleness propose Against the Lord to fight. For when the Archangel's trumpet sounds, And all the dead shall hear, And haste from earth's remotest bounds In judgment to appear, --When every work, and word, and _thought_, Well known or hid from sight, Before the Universe is brought To blaze in lines of light, --When by the test of _perfect_ law Your '_glorious_' course is tried, On what resources will you draw?-- In what will you confide?For know that eyes of awful light Burn on you from above, Where nought but kindness meets the sight, And all the air is love. When all unused to such employ As charms the angelic hands, How can you hope to share their joy Who dwell in heavenly lands?"

Such was the poem of Frederick Alexander Armstrong. After itsrehearsal, a young gentleman _read_ a prose Essay on Education. It wasclever, and indicated a mind of a high order, but was too playful; andthe performance was severely criticised. Here ended the "publicdeclamation. "

LETTER XVIII. 

Visit to Lane Seminary (continued)--Dr. Beecher and his Gun--TheCollege Library--Dr. Stowe and his Hebrew Class--History of LaneSeminary--Qualifications for Admission--The Curriculum--ManualLabour--Expenses of Education--Results--Equality of Professors andStudents. 

The "public declamation" ended, Dr. Beecher asked me to accompany himto his house. It was about an eighth of a mile from the institution, over a very bad road, or rather over no road at all. He conducted meinto a snug little sitting-room, having no grate; but a wood fire onthe floor under the chimney. It looked primitive and homely. This styleof fire is not uncommon in America. The logs of wood lie across twohorizontal bars of iron, by which they are raised four or six inchesfrom the floor. The Doctor's first care was to replenish the fire witha few sturdy pieces of wood. All through the States, I have observedthat the task of feeding the fire generally devolves on the head of thefamily. In this little room I was introduced to Mrs. Beecher. She is, Ibelieve, the third lady on whom the Doctor has conferred his name. Inone corner of this apartment was a gun, and on the sofa a heap of shot. Thousands of wild pigeons were flying about. The visit of these birdsmade the Doctor very uneasy. He was ever and anon snatching up his gun, and going out to have a pop at them. Though upwards of seventy years ofage, he is an excellent marksman. It was to me a little odd to see avenerable D. D. , a Professor of Theology, handling a fowling-piece! TheAmericans, have by circumstances been trained to great skill in the useof fire-arms. The gun, however, proved a fatal instrument in the handsof one of the Doctor's sons, a young man of great promise, who waskilled by the accidental explosion of one. Nevertheless, Dr. Beecherhas five sons, all (like himself) in the ministry! He has a maidendaughter, who has distinguished herself by her literary attainments andactive benevolence. The excellent and accomplished wife of Dr. Stowewas also a Miss Beecher. 

At 1 o'clock P. M. We dined. The Professors never dine, or take anyother meal, with the assembled students. This is a disadvantage. But inAmerica eating, under any circumstances, is not so sociable a matter asin England. 

After dinner, I took my leave of Dr. Beecher, and went to see thelibrary of the institution. This is over the chapel, but so arranged asnot at all to detract from the just proportions of the building. Indeed, no one would suspect that there was a story above. This librarywas collected with great care and judgment by Dr. Stowe, in England andon the continent of Europe, and contains 10, 000 volumes! Thelibrary-room is capable of receiving 30, 000 volumes. But even now it isthe largest library on this side the Allegany Mountains. It comprisesnot only the standard works in all the departments of a theologicalcourse, but also a very rich variety of authors in general literatureand science. The books are arranged in alcoves according to theircharacter, --Theology--Biblical Literature--Classics--History--Philosophy;and so forth. 

There is a "Society of Inquiry" in connection with the seminary, whichhas a distinct library of 326 volumes. "The Reading Room and Athenaeum"is furnished with 21 newspapers, and several of the best literary andtheological periodicals. 

From the library, my guide (one of the students) led me down into thelecture-room, where Professor Stowe was engaged with a Hebrew class. They were reading in the Song of Solomon. The exhibition did not strikeme as much superior to what we used to have at Rotherham College ten ortwelve years ago. In point of domestic _comfort_, the latter isincomparably before Lane Seminary, and in literary advantages not farbehind. Professor Stowe kindly drove me back to Cincinnati in hisbuggy, or waggon, or phaeton. 

Lane Seminary is an institution devoted entirely to theologicaleducation, in connection with the New-School Presbyterians. Thebuilding, including chapel and library, cost about 50, 000 dollars, or10, 000_l. _, and must have been very cheap at that. In 1828-30, EbenezerLane, Esq. , and his brother Andrew Lane, Esq. , made a donation of 4, 000dollars for the purpose of establishing the seminary, whereupon it wasincorporated under the name of "Lane Seminary, " and trustees wereappointed. To these trustees the Rev. Mr. Kemper and his sons madeover, for the benefit of the institution, 60 acres of land, includingthe site on which the buildings stand. In 1832 Arthur Tappan, Esq. , ofNew York, subscribed 20, 000 dollars for the Professorship of Theology. In the same year 15, 000 dollars were raised for the Professorship ofEcclesiastical History; the largest contributor to which was AmbroseWhite, Esq. , of Philadelphia: and an equal sum was contributed for theProfessorship of Biblical Literature, --Stephen Van Rennselaer, Esq. , ofAlbany, being the chief contributor. In 1835, a fund of 20, 000 dollarswas raised for the Professorship of Sacred Rhetoric, of which a largeportion was given by John Tappan, Esq. , of Boston. A literarydepartment was organized in 1829, which was discontinued in 1834; atwhich period the institution, in its full operation as a TheologicalSeminary, may be said to have commenced. Since then it has sent forthabout 250 ministers!

Candidates for admission must produce satisfactory testimonials, thatthey are members, in good standing, of some Christian Church; that theypossess competent talents; and that they have regularly graduated atsome college or university, or have pursued a course of studyequivalent to the common college course. 

The course of study occupies three years; and every student is expectedto enter with the intention of completing the full course. So far aspracticable, the different branches are pursued simultaneously. Thusthe department of Biblical Literature, during the first year, occupiesthree days in the week; during the second, two; and during the third, one: Church History, one day in the week: Sacred Rhetoric and PastoralTheology, one day in the week during the first year, two the second, and three the third. The object of this arrangement is to afford apleasant variety in study, and to keep up a proper interest in all thedepartments through the whole course. "Hitherto, " it is stated, "theplan has been pursued with results highly satisfactory to the Faculty. "Theological students may be glad to learn the following particulars ofthe whole course. 

I. BIBLICAL LITERATURE. --This department embraces--1. BiblicalGeography and Antiquities. 2. Principles of Biblical Interpretation. 3. General Introduction to the Old and New Testaments, and ParticularIntroduction to the Pentateuch, Gospels, and Acts. 4. Interpretation ofthe Gospels in Harmony and of the Acts. 5. Interpretation of theHistorical Writings of Moses. 6. Particular Introduction to the severalBooks of the Old and New Testaments. 7. Hebrew Poetry, includingFigurative and Symbolical Language of Scripture. 8. Interpretation ofPsalms, Proverbs, and Ecclesiastes. 9. Epistles to Romans, Corinthians, Timothy, and I Peter. 10. Nature and Fulfilment of Prophecy, particularly in reference to the Messiah. 11. Interpretation of Isaiah, Zechariah, and Nahum. 12. The Revelation, in connection with Daniel. 

II. CHURCH HISTORY AND POLITY. --In this department a regular course oflectures is given on the History of Doctrines to all the classes, andon Church Polity to the senior classes. 

III. SYSTEMATIC THEOLOGY. --In this department are included--1. Causeand Effect. 2. Mental Philosophy. 3. Atheism, its History andHypothesis, Arguments, Objections, and Folly. 4. The Being, Character, and Attributes of God. 5. Reason, Light of Nature, Necessity ofRevelation. 6. The Truth and Inspiration of the Bible. 7. Doctrine ofRevelation. 

IV. SACRED RHETORIC AND PASTORAL THEOLOGY. _First Year_. --Lectures onRhetoric and Elocution. Exercises in Reading and Elocution. _SecondYear_. --Written Discussions, with Public Criticism in the class. _ThirdYear_. --Exercises in criticising Skeletons continued. Public andPrivate Criticism of Sermons. Lectures on Preaching and on PastoralDuties. 

The annual term of study begins on the second Wednesday in September, and closes on the second Wednesday in June, which is the Anniversary. The term closes with a public examination. 

Dr. Andrew Reed, who visited Lane Seminary in 1834, refers to it as a_model_ manual-labour institution. With the advancement of societyaround, it has lost in a great measure that peculiarity. There is nowbut little done in that way, though it is still recorded in italicsamong its regulations, that "every student is expected to labour threehours a day at some agricultural or mechanical business. " "While theleading aim of this regulation, " it is added, "is to promote health andvigour of both body and mind, compensation is received according to thevalue of the labour. "

No charge is made for tuition. Rooms are fully furnished and rented at5 dollars a year from each student. The incidental expenses, includingfuel and light for public rooms, ringing the bell, and sweeping, are 5dollars more. The room-rent and incidental bill are paid in advance. For the aid of indigent students funds are collected annually, by meansof which board is furnished to such gratuitously. To those who receiveno assistance from the funds, the price of board is about 90 cents aweek. The cost of fuel and lights for each student, in his own room, will average from 8 to 12 dollars a year. Thus the entire expense to ayoung man for a whole term of nine months is only from 50 to 60dollars, or from 10 to 12 guineas of our money. 

"The results of these thirteen years of labour, " say the trustees in adocument recently issued, "considering the difficulties attending theestablishment of such an institution in a new country, amid apopulation as yet unassimilated in feelings and habits, and whoseschools, academies, and colleges are of comparatively recent origin, are indeed highly encouraging. The friends of the institution, and ofreligion and learning generally, thankful for what has already beenaccomplished, will feel encouraged to do whatever may be necessary forthe highest efficiency of the seminary; and will give their prayersthat the labours of the 300 young men, who have enjoyed or now enjoyits advantages, " (there being about 50 then in the house, ) "may beabundantly blessed by the Head of the Church. "

Lane Seminary is a valuable and catholic institution. At theirentrance, the students have to subscribe to no confession of faith;and, when they have completed their curriculum, they are at perfectliberty to exercise their ministry among whatever denomination theyplease. Congregational as well as Presbyterial Churches obtain pastorsfrom this "school of the prophets. "

The "Faculty" at present consists of the Rev. Lyman Beecher, D. D. , President, and Professor of Theology; the Rev. Calvin E. Stowe, D. D. , Professor of Biblical Literature, and Lecturer on Church History; andthe Rev. D. Howe Allen, Professor of Sacred Rhetoric and PastoralTheology, and Lecturer on Church Polity. 

Nothing struck me more than the feeling of equality that seemed tosubsist between students and professors. The latter, in speaking to orof any of the former, would generally say "Brother" So-and-so. Thestudents also, in their bearing towards the professors, seemed each tosay, "I am as good a man as you are. " This is the genius of America. You meet it everywhere. There man is man (except his skin be black), and he expects to be treated as such. Respect to superiors is not amongthe maxims of our Transatlantic brethren. The organ of veneration is, perhaps, imperfectly developed. 

LETTER XIX. 

A Sabbath at Cincinnati--The Second Presbyterian Church--Mutilation ofa Popular Hymn--The Rushing Habit--A wrong "Guess"--A GermanSunday-School--Visit to a Church of Coloured People--Engagement at theWelsh "Church"--Monthly Concert--The Medical College of Ohio--Tea atthe House of a Coloured Minister. 

On the previous Friday, Professor Allen called to request me to preachin his stead at the Second Presbyterian Church on Sunday morning, the28th of February, as he had to go some twenty miles into the country to"assist at a revival. " I agreed to do so. Sunday morning wasexcessively cold, with a heavy fall of snow. On arriving at the"church, " I found there was no vestry. Indeed, a vestry, as a privateroom for the minister, is seldom found in America. The places areexceedingly neat and comfortable, but they want _that_ convenience. Ihad therefore to go with my hat and top-coat, covered with snow, rightinto the pulpit. This church outside is a noble-looking building, withmassive pillars in front, and a bell-tower containing a town-clock; butthe interior seemed comparatively small. It had a gallery at one end, which held only the singers and the organ. The seats below were notmore than one-third full. Dr. Beecher ministered in this place forabout ten years. It was now without a pastor, but was temporarilysupplied by Professor Allen. The congregation was far more decorous andattentive than those in New Orleans. After the introductory service, and while the hymn before sermon was being sung, a man came trudgingdown the aisle, bearing an immense scuttle full of coals to supply thestoves. How easy it would have been before service to place a box offuel in the vicinity of each stove, and thereby avoid this unseemlybustle! But in the singing of the hymn, I found something to surpriseand offend me even more than the coal-scuttle. The hymn was--

 "O'er the gloomy hills of darkness, " &c. 

I had selected it myself; but when I got to the second verse, where Ihad expected to find

 "Let the Indian, let the negro, Let the rude barbarian see, " &c. , lo! "the Indian. " and "the negro" had vanished, and

 "Let the dark benighted pagan"

was substituted. A wretched alteration, --as feeble and tautological ineffect as it is suspicious in design. The altered reading, I learned, prevails universally in America, except in the _original_ version usedby the Welsh congregations. Slave-holders, and the abettors of thathorrid system which makes it a crime to teach a negro to read the Wordof God, felt perhaps that they could not devoutly and consistently sing

 "Let the Indian, let the negro, " &c. 

This church, I heard, was more polluted with a pro-slavery feeling thanany other in Cincinnati of the same denomination, --a circumstancewhich, I believe, had something to do with Dr. Beecher's resignation ofthe pastorate. 

At the close of the sermon, having pronounced the benediction, Iengaged, according to our English custom, in a short act of privatedevotion. When I raised my head and opened my eyes, the very last manof the congregation was actually making his exit through the doorway;and it was quite as much as I could manage to put on my top-coat andgloves and reach the door before the sexton closed it. This rushinghabit in the House of God strikes a stranger as rude and irreverent. You meet with no indications of private devotion, either preceding orfollowing public worship. A man marches into his pew, or his pulpit, sits down, wipes his nose, and stares at all about him; and at theclose, the moment the "Amen" is uttered, he is off with as much speedas if the house were on fire. In this instance, the service had notexceeded an hour and a half; and yet they hurried out as if theythought the beef was all burnt, and the pudding all spoiled. Of course, there were no thanks to the stranger for his services, --to say nothingof the _quiddam honorarium_, which to a man travelling for health, athis own expense, with an invalid wife, might have been supposed notunacceptable. 

When, however, I got to the portico outside, a gentleman, with hiswife, was waiting to see me before they stepped into their carriage. Here was some token of politeness and hospitality, --an invitation todinner, no doubt. --"Thank you, sir, I am very much obliged to you; butI left my wife very ill at our lodgings this morning, and therefore Icannot have the pleasure to dine with you to-day, " was the civil excuseI was preparing. Never was expectation more beside the mark. My "guess"was altogether wrong. "What are you going to do with yourself thisafternoon?" was the gentleman's blunt salutation. "What have _you_ topropose, sir?" was my reply. "I am the superintendent, " he said, "of aGerman Sunday-school in the upper part of the city, and I should likeyou to come and address the children this afternoon. " I promised to go, and he to send to my "lodgings" for me. We both kept our appointment. The number of scholars was about 100. This effort to bring the Germansunder a right religious influence is very laudable; for there are about10, 000 of that people in Cincinnati. One quarter of the city isentirely German. You see nothing else on the sign-boards; you hearnothing else in the streets. Of these Germans the greater part areRoman Catholics. 

After visiting the school, I found myself in time to attend one of thechapels of the coloured people at 3 P. M. A medical student, whom I hadmet in the morning, and again at the German school, accompanied me. Hewas a New Englander, and a thorough anti-slavery man. When we got tothe chapel--a Baptist one--they were at prayer. Walking in softly, weentered a pew right in the midst of them. The minister--a mulatto ofabout thirty years of age, with a fine intelligent eye--was very simplein dress, and unostentatious in manner. His language, too, wasappropriate and correct. He was evidently a man of good common sense. His text was Psalm li. L2, l3. He referred very properly to theoccasion on which the Psalm was composed, and drew from the text alarge mass of sound practical instruction. The chapel (capable ofcontaining about 150 people) was only half-full. Before the sermon, Ihad observed a very old negro, in a large shabby camlet cloak and ablack cap, ascending the pulpit-stairs. I supposed that, being dull ofhearing, he had taken that position that he might better listen to theservice. However, when the sermon was over, this patriarchal-lookingblack man rose to pray; and he prayed "like a bishop, " with astonishingcorrectness and fluency! He was formerly a slave in Kentucky, and wasat this time about eighty years of age. They call him "Father Watkins. "At the close I introduced myself to him and to the minister. They bothexpressed regret that they had not had me up in the pulpit, to tellthem something, as "Father Watkins" said, about their "brothers andsisters on the other side of the water. " The minister gave me his card, and invited me and my wife to take tea with him on Tuesday afternoon. This was the first invitation I received within the city of Cincinnatito take a meal anywhere; and it was the more interesting to me ascoming from a coloured man. 

In the evening I went, according to appointment, to the Welsh Chapel. There I met a Mr. Bushnel, an American missionary from the GaboonRiver, on the western coast of Africa. He first spoke in English, and Iafterwards a little in Welsh; gladly embracing the opportunity toexhort my countrymen in that "Far West" to feel kindly and tenderlytowards the coloured race among them; asking them how they wouldthemselves feel if, as Welshmen, they were branded and despisedwherever they went! I was grieved to see the excess to which theycarried the filthy habit of spitting. The coloured people in _their_chapel were incomparably cleaner in that respect. 

In the morning a notice had been put into my hand at the PresbyterianChurch for announcement, to the effect that Mr. Bushnel and myselfwould address the "monthly concert at the church in Sixth-street" onthe morrow evening. Of this arrangement not a syllable had been said tome beforehand. This was American liberty, and I quietly submitted toit. The attendance was not large; and we two missionaries had it all toourselves. No other ministers were present, --not even the minister ofthe church in which we were assembled. The people, however, seemedheartily interested in the subject of missions. At the close, a ladyfrom Manchester, who had seen me there in 1845 at the missionarymeeting, came forward full of affection to shake hands. She was amember of Mr. Griffin's church in that city, and had removed to Americaa few months before, with her husband (who is a member of the "Societyof Friends") and children. I was glad to find that they were likely tobe comfortable in their adopted country. 

Next morning I went with Dr. Reuben D. Mussey, a New Englander, to seethe Medical College of Ohio. Dr. Mussey is the Professor of Surgery andDean of the Faculty, and is highly esteemed for his professional skilland general character. He and his son, who was my guide on the Sunday, very kindly showed and explained to me everything of interest in theinstitution. The cabinet belonging to the anatomical department issupplied with all the materials necessary for acquiring a minute andperfect knowledge of the human frame. These consist of detached bones, of wired natural skeletons, and of dried preparations to exhibit themuscles, bloodvessels, nerves, &c. The cabinet of comparative anatomyis supposed to be more extensively supplied than any other in theUnited States. Besides perfect skeletons of American and foreign birdsand other animals, there is an immense number of detached _crania_, from the elephant and hippopotamus down to the minuter orders. Thecabinet in the surgical department has been formed at great expense, chiefly by Dr. Mussey himself, during the labour of more than fortyyears. It contains a large number of rare specimens, --600 specimens ofdiseased bones alone. Other departments are equally well furnished. TheFaculty is composed of six Professorships, --Surgery, Anatomy andPhysiology, Chemistry and Pharmacy, Materia Medica, Obstetrics andDiseases of Women and Children, and the Theory and Practice ofMedicine. The fees of tuition are only 15 dollars, or 3 guineas, toeach professor, making an aggregate of 90 dollars. There were 190students. It will probably be admitted that this institution, formed ina new country, has arrived at an astonishing degree of vigour andmaturity. It is only one of many instances in which the Americans arebefore us in the facilities afforded for professional education. 

In the afternoon my wife and myself went to take tea with the colouredminister. His dwelling, though small and humble, was neat and clean. With his intelligence and general information we were quite delighted. He spoke with feeling of the gross insults to which the colouredpeople, even in this free State, are exposed. When they travel byrailway, though they pay the same fare as other people, they aregenerally put in the luggage-van! He had himself, when on board ofsteam-boats, often been sent to the "pantry" to eat his food. Nor willthe white people employ them but in the most menial offices; so that itis nearly impossible for them to rise to affluence and horse-and-gigrespectability. The consequence is that they are deeply and justlydisaffected towards the American people and the American laws. Theyclearly understand that England is their friend. For one month all thefree coloured people wore crape as mourning for Thomas Clarkson. 

LETTER XX. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The New Roman Catholic Cathedral--TheRev. C. B. Boynton and Congregationalism--"The Herald of a NewEra"--American Nationality. 

A lady, belonging to the Presbyterian Church at which I preached, kindly sent her carriage to take us about to see the city. We visitedthe new Roman Catholic Cathedral, one of the principal "lions. " It wasbegun in 1841, and, though used for public worship, is not yetfinished. The building is a parallelogram of 200 feet long by 80 feetwide, and is 58 feet from the floor to the ceiling. The roof is partlysupported by the side walls, and partly by two rows of freestonecolumns--nine in each row--at a distance of about 11 feet from the wallinside. These columns are of the Corinthian Order, and are 35 feethigh, and 3 feet 6 inches in diameter. There is no gallery, except atone end, for the organ, which cost 5, 400 dollars, or about 1, 100_l. _sterling. The floor of the building is furnished with a centre aisle of6 feet wide, and two other aisles, each 11 feet wide, along the sidewalls, for processional purposes. The remainder of the area is formedinto 140 pews, 10 feet deep. Each pew will accommodate with comfortonly six persons; so that this immense edifice affords sitting room forno more than 840 people! It is a magnificent structure, displaying inall its proportions a remarkable degree of elegance and taste. Thetower, when finished, will present an elevation of 200 feet, with aportico of twelve Corinthian columns, six in front and three on eitherside, on the model of the Tower of the Wind at Athens. The entirebuilding will be Grecian in all its parts. One-fourth of the populationof Cincinnati are Roman Catholics. They have lately discontinued theuse of public government-schools for their children, and haveestablished some of their own, I am not so much alarmed at the progressof Popery in America as I was before I visited that country. Itsproselytes are exceedingly few. Its supporters consist chiefly of thethousands of Europeans, already Roman Catholic, who flock to the NewWorld. The real _progress_ of Popery is greater in Britain than inAmerica. 

In the evening I preached for Mr. Boynton in the "Sixth-street Church, "Mr. Boynton and his Church, heretofore Presbyterians, have recentlybecome Congregationalists. This has given great umbrage to thePresbyterians. Congregationalism is rapidly gaining ground in theWestern World, and seems destined there, as in England since Cromwell'stime, to swallow up Presbyterianism. I make no invidious comparisonbetween the two systems: I merely look at facts. And it does appear tome that Congregationalism--so simple, so free, so unsectarian, and socatholic--is nevertheless a powerful absorbent. It _has_ absorbed allthat was orthodox in the old Presbyterian Churches of England; and it_is_ absorbing the Calvinistic Methodists and the churches named afterthe Countess of Huntingdon. It has all along exerted a powerfulinfluence on the Presbyterianism of America. The Congregational elementdiffused among those churches occasioned the division of thePresbyterian Church into Old School and New School. 

Mr. Boynton is what a friend of mine called "intensely American. " Hehas lately published, under the title of "Our Country the Herald of aNew Era, " a lecture delivered before the "Young Men's MercantileLibrary Association. " To show the magnificent ideas the Americansentertain of themselves and their country, I will transcribe a fewpassages. 

"This nation is an enigma, whose import no man as yet may fully know. She is a germ of boundless things. The unfolded bud excites the hope ofone-half the human race, while it stirs the remainder with both angerand alarm. Who shall now paint the beauty and attraction of theexpanded flower? Our Eagle is scarcely fledged; but one wing stretchesover Massachusetts Bay, and the other touches the mouth of theColumbia. Who shall say, then, what lands shall be overshadowed by thefull-grown pinion? Who shall point to any spot of the northerncontinent, and say, with certainty, Here the starry banner shall neverbe hailed as the symbol of dominion? [The annexation of Canada!] * * *It cannot be disguised that the idea is gathering strength among us, that the territorial mission of this nation is to obtain and hold atleast all that lies north of Panama. * * * Whether the millions thatare to dwell on the great Pacific slope of our continent are toacknowledge our banner, or rally to standards of their own; whetherMexico is to become ours by sudden conquest or gradual absorption;whether the British provinces, when they pass from beneath the sceptreof England, shall be incorporated with us, or retain an independentdominion;--are perhaps questions which a not distant future may decide. However they may be settled, the great fact will remain essentially thesame, that the two continents of this Western Hemisphere shall yet bearup a stupendous social, political, and religious structure, wrought bythe American mind, moulded and coloured by the hues of Americanthought, and animated and united by an American soul. It seems equallycertain that, whatever the divisions of territory may be, these UnitedStates are the living centre, from which already flows the resistlessstream which will ultimately absorb in its own channel, and bear on itsown current, the whole thought of the two Americas. * * * If, then, Ihave not over-rated the moral and intellectual vigour of the people ofthis nation, and of the policy lately avowed to be acted upon--that thefurther occupation of American soil by the Governments of Europe is notto be suffered, --then the inference is a direct one, that the strongerelements will control and absorb the lesser, so that the same causeswhich melted the red races away will send the influence of the UnitedStates not only over the territory north of Panama, but across theIsthmus, and southward to Magellan. "

The "New Era" of which America is the "Herald" is, he tells us, to bemarked by three grand characteristics, --

"First. A new theory and practice in government and in social life, such as the world has never seen, of which we only perceive the germ asyet. " Already have you indeed presented before the world your "peculiarinstitution" of slavery in a light new and striking. Already have you a"theory and practice" in the government of slaves such as the worldnever beheld!

"Second. A literature which shall not only be the proper outgrowth ofthe American mind, but which shall form a distinctive school, asclearly so as the literature of Greece!" Under this head he says, "Verymuch would I prefer that our literature should appear even in the guiseof the awkward, speculating, guessing, but still original, strong-minded _American_ Yankee, than to see it mincing in the costumeof a London dandy. I would rather see it, if need be, showing the wildrough strength, the naturalness and fervour of the extreme West, equally prepared to liquor with a stranger or to fight with him, thanto see it clad in the gay but filthy garments of the saloons of Paris. Nay more, much as every right mind abhors and detests such things, Iwould sooner behold our literature holding in one hand the murderousBowie knife, and in the other the pistol of the duellist, than to seeher laden with the foul secrets of a London hell, or the gaming-housesof Paris. * * * If we must meet with vice in our literature, let it bethe growth of our own soil; for I think our own rascality has yet thehealthier aspect. "

"Third. A new era in the fine arts, from which future ages shall derivetheir models and their inspirations, as we do from Greece and Italy. ** * So far as scenery is concerned in the moulding of character, we maysafely expect that a country where vastness and beauty are sowonderfully blended will stamp upon the national soul its own magesticand glorious image. It must be so. The mind will expand itself to themeasure of things about it. Deep in the wide American soul there shallbe Lake Superiors, inland oceans of thought; and the streams of hereloquence shall be like the sweep of the Mississippi in his strength. The rugged strength of the New England hills, the luxuriance of thesunny South, the measureless expanse of the prairie, the broad flow ofour rivers, the dashing of our cataracts, the huge battlements of theeverlasting mountains, --these are _American_. On the face of the globethere is nothing like to them. When therefore these various influenceshave been thoroughly wrought into the national soul, there will be sucha correspondence between man and the works of God about him, that ourmusic, our poetry, our eloquence, our all, shall be our own, individualand peculiar, like the Amazon and the Andes, the Mississippi andNiagara, alone in their strength and glory. "

Now, mark you! amidst all these splendid visions of the future, thereis no vision of liberty for 3, 000, 000 of slaves. That idea was toosmall to find a place among conceptions so vast. The lecture containsnot a syllable of reference to them. On the contrary, the empty boastof freedom is heard in the following words of solemn mockery: "_Thesoul of man_ here no longer sits _bound_ and blind amid the despoticforms of the past; it walks abroad _without a shackle_, and with anuncovered eye. " It follows then that there is an essential differencebetween "the soul of man" and the soul of "nigger, " or rather that"niggers" have no soul at all. How _can_ men of sense, and especiallyministers of the Gospel, sit down to pen such fustian? These extractsshow how intensely national the Americans are, and consequently howfutile the apology for the existence of slavery so often presented, that one State can no more interfere with the affairs of another Statethan the people of England can with France and the other countries ofthe European continent. The Americans are to all intents and purposes_one_ people. In short, the identity of feeling among the _States_ ofthe Union is more complete than among the _counties_ of Great Britain. 

On the morning of the 4th of March, Dr. Stowe called to invite me toaddress the students at Lane Seminary, on the following Sabbathevening, on the subject of missions and the working of freedom in theWest Indies. I readily promised to comply, glad of an opportunity toaddress so many of the future pastors of the American Churches, whowill occupy the field when emancipation is sure to be the greatquestion of the day. In fact, it is so already. 

LETTER XXI. 

Stay at Cincinnati (continued)--The Orphan Asylum--A Coloured Man and aWhite Fop treated as each deserved--A Trip across to Covington--Mr. Gilmore and the School for Coloured Children--"The Fugitive Slave tothe Christian"--Sabbath--Mr. Boynton--Dr. Beecher--LaneSeminary--Departure from Cincinnati. 

In the afternoon we went with Mrs. Judge B---- to see an Orphan Asylum, in which she took a deep interest. Requested to address the children, Itook the opportunity of delivering an anti-slavery andanti-colour-hating speech. The building, large and substantial, iscapable of accommodating 300 children; but the number of inmates was atthat time not more than 70. While the lady was showing us from oneapartment to another, and pointing out to us the comforts andconveniences of the institution, the following colloquy took place. 

_Myself. _--"Now, Mrs. B, this place is very beautiful: I admire itexceedingly. Would you refuse a little _coloured_ orphan admission intothis asylum?"

_The Lady. _ (stretching herself up to her full height, and with a lookof horror and indignation), --"Indeed, we would!"

_Myself. _--"Oh, shocking! shocking!"

_The Lady. _--"Oh! there is another asylum for the coloured children;they are not neglected. "

_Myself. _--"Ay, but why should they not be together?--why should therebe such a distinction between the children of our common Father?"

_The Lady. _ (in a tone of triumph). --"Why has God made such adistinction between them?"

_Myself. _--"And why has he made such a distinction between me and TomThumb? Or (for I am not very tall) why has he made me a man of 5 feet 6inches instead of 6 feet high? A man may as well be excluded fromsociety on account of his stature as his colour. "

At this moment my wife, seeing I was waxing warm, pulled me by thecoat-tail, and I said no more. The lady, however, went on to say thatshe was opposed to slavery--was a colonizationist, and heartily wishedall the coloured people were back again in their own country. "In theirown country, indeed!" I was going to say, --"why, this is their countryas much as it is yours;" but I remembered my wife's admonition, andheld my peace. These were the sentiments of a lady first and foremostin the charitable movements of the day, and regarded by those aroundher as a pattern of piety and benevolence. She was shocked at thenotion of the poor coloured orphan mingling with fellow-orphans of afairer hue. 

In the evening we went to take tea at the house of an English Quaker. About half-a-dozen friends had been invited to meet us. These werekindred spirits, anti-slavery out-and-out, and we spent the eveningvery pleasantly. One of the company, in speaking of the Americanprejudice against colour, mentioned a remarkable circumstance. Sometime ago, at an hotel in one of the Eastern States, a highlyrespectable coloured gentleman, well known to the host and to hisguests, was about to sit down at the dinner table. A militaryofficer--a conceited puppy--asked the landlord if that "nigger" wasgoing to sit down? The landlord replied in the affirmative. "Then, "said the fop, "_I_ cannot sit down with a nigger. " The rest of thecompany, understanding what was going forward, rose as one man fromtheir seats, ordered another table to be spread, and presented arespectful invitation to the coloured gentleman to take a seat withthem. The military dandy was left at the first table, "alone in hisglory. " When thus humbled, and when he also understood who the colouredman was, he went up to him to apologize in the best way he could, andto beg that the offence might be forgotten. The coloured gentleman'sreply was beautiful and touching, --"Favours I write on marble, insultson sand. "

On the morning of the 5th of March, the sun shining pleasantly, we weretempted to cross over to Covington, on the Kentucky or slave side ofthe river. Ferry-steamers ran every five or ten minutes, and the farewas only 5 cents. At this place the Baptists have a large and importantcollege. Why did they erect it on the slave rather than on the freeside of the Ohio? This institution I was anxious to see; but I found ittoo far off, and the roads too bad. Feeling weary and faint, we calledat a house of refreshment, where we had a genuine specimen of Americaninquisitiveness. 

In five minutes the daughter of the house had asked us where we camefrom--what sort of a place it was--how long we had been in the UnitedStates--how long it took us to come--how far we were going--how long weshould stay--and if we did not like that part of America so well thatwe would come and settle in it altogether! and in five minutes more ouranswers to all these important questions had been duly reported to therest of the family in an adjoining room. This inquisitiveness prevailsmore in the slave than in the free States, and originates, I believe, in the fidgetty anxiety they feel about their slaves. The stranger mustbe well catechised, lest he should prove to be an Abolitionist come togive the slaves a sly lesson in geography. 

In the afternoon I went to see the school of the coloured children inCincinnati. This was established about four years ago by a Mr. Gilmore, a white gentleman, who is also a minister of the Gospel. He is a man ofsome property, and all connected with this school has been done at hisown risk and responsibility. On my venturing to inquire what sacrificeof property he had made in the undertaking, he seemed hurt at thequestion, and replied, "No sacrifice whatever, sir. " "But what, may Iask, have these operations cost beyond what you have received in theway of school-fees?" I continued. "About 7, 000 dollars, " (1, 500_l. _)said he. Including two or three branches, there are about 300 colouredchildren thus educated. Mr. Gilmore was at first much opposed andridiculed; but that state of feeling was beginning to wear away. Several of the children were so fair that, accustomed as I am to shadesof colour, I could not distinguish them from the Anglo-Saxon race; andyet Mr. Gilmore told me even they would not have been admitted to theother public schools! How discerning the Americans are! How proud oftheir skin-deep aristocracy! And the author of "Cincinnati in 1841, " inspeaking of those very schools from which these fair children wereexcluded, says, "These schools are founded not merely on the principlethat all men are free and equal, but that all men's children are solikewise; and that, as it is our duty to love our neighbour asourselves, it is our duty to provide the same benefits and blessings tohis children as to our own. These establishments result from therecognition of the fact also, that we have all a commoninterest--moral, political, and pecuniary--in the education of thewhole community. " Those gloriously exclusive schools I had no wish tovisit. But I felt a peculiar pleasure in visiting this humbler yetwell-conducted institution, for the benefit of those who are despisedand degraded on account of their colour. As I entered, a music-masterwas teaching them, with the aid of a piano, to sing some select piecesfor an approaching examination, both the instrument and the masterhaving been provided by the generous Gilmore. Even the music-master, notwithstanding his first-rate ability, suffers considerable loss ofpatronage on account of his services in this branded school. Among thepieces sung, and sung exceedingly well, was the following touchingappeal, headed "The Fugitive Slave to the Christian"--Air, "Cracovienne. "

"The fetters galled my weary soul, -- A soul that seemed but thrown away:I spurned the tyrant's base control, Resolved at last the man to play: The hounds are haying on my track; O Christian! will you send me back?

"I felt the stripes, --the lash I saw, Red dripping with a father's gore;And, worst of all their lawless law, The insults that my mother bore! The hounds are baying on my track; O Christian! will you send me back?

"Where human law o'errules Divine, Beneath the sheriff's hammer fellMy wife and babes, --I call them mine, -- And where they suffer who can tell? The hounds are baying on my track; O Christian! will you send me back?

"I seek a home where man is man, If such there be upon this earth, --To draw my kindred, if I can, Around its free though humble hearth. The hounds are baying on my track; O Christian! will you send me back?"

March 7. --This being the Sabbath, we went in the morning to worship atMr. Boynton's church. The day was very wet, and the congregation small. His text was, "Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to everycreature. He that believeth and is baptized shall be saved; but he thatbelieveth not shall be damned. " The sermon, though read, and composedtoo much in the essay style, indicated considerable powers of mind andfidelity of ministerial character. Although from incessant rain the daywas very dark, the Venetian blinds were down over all the windows! TheAmericans, I have since observed, are particularly fond of the "dimreligious light. " Among the announcements from the pulpit were severalfunerals, which it is there customary thus to advertise. 

In the afternoon I heard Dr. Beecher. Here, again, I found the blindsdown. The Doctor's text was, "Let me first go and bury my father, " &c. Without at all noticing the context, --an omission which Iregretted, --he proceeded at once to state the doctrine of the text tobe, that nothing can excuse the putting off of religion--that it isevery man's duty to follow Christ immediately. This subject, notwithstanding the heaviness of the day, the infirmities of more thanthreescore years and ten (74), and the frequent necessity of adjustinghis spectacles to consult his notes, he handled with much vigour andzeal. Some of his pronunciations were rather antiquated; but they werethe elegant New England pronunciations of his youthful days. The sermonwas marked by that close and faithful dealing with the conscience inwhich so many American ministers excel. 

Professor Allen called to take me up to Lane Seminary, where I was toaddress the students in the evening. The service was public, and heldin the chapel of the institution; but the evening being wet, thecongregation was small. I had, however, before me the future pastors ofabout fifty churches, and two of the professors. I was domiciled at Mr. Allen's. Both he and his intelligent wife are sound on the subject ofslavery. They are also quite above the contemptible prejudice againstcolour. But I was sorry to hear Mrs. Allen say, that, in her domesticarrangements, she had often had a great deal of trouble with her_European_ servants, who would refuse to take their meals with blackones, though the latter were in every respect superior to the former! Ihave heard similar remarks in other parts of America. Mr. Allen'ssystem of domestic training appeared excellent. His children, of whomhe has as many as the patriarch Jacob, were among the loveliest I hadever seen. 

At 8 o'clock in the morning of the 8th of March I left Lane Seminary, with a heavy heart at the thought that in all probability I shouldnever see it again. There was a sharp frost. Dr. Stowe accompanied meto the omnibus. "All right!"--"_Pax vobiscum!_"--the vehicle moved on, and directly the Doctor was at a distance of a hundred yards waving afarewell. It was the last look. 

At 11 A. M. Myself, wife, baggage, --all were setting off from the "QueenCity" for Pittsburgh, a distance of 496 miles, in the Clipper No. 2, afine boat, and in good hands. 

LETTER XXII. 

Cincinnati--Its History and Progress--Its Trade and Commerce--ItsPeriodical Press--Its Church Accommodation--Its Future Prospects--Steaming up the Ohio--Contrast between Freedom and Slavery--AnIndian Mound--Splendid Scenery--Coal Hills. 

Before proceeding with our trip to Pittsburg, I will bring together allthe material points of information I have gathered relative toCincinnati. 

1. _Its History and Progress_. --The first year of the present centuryfound here but 750 inhabitants. In 1810 there were 2, 540; in 1820, 9, 602; in 1830, 24, 381; in 1840, 46, 382. At present the population isestimated at 80, 000. The coloured population forms one twenty-fifth, or4 per cent. , of the whole. The native Europeans form one-fifth of thewhite population. 

2. _Its Trade and Commerce_. --The principal trade is in pork. Hencethe nickname of _Porkapolis_. The yearly value of pork packed andexported is about five millions of dollars, or one million of guineas!As a proof of the amazing activity which characterizes all the detailsof cutting, curing, packing, &c. , I have been credibly informed thattwo men, in one of the pork-houses, cut up in less than thirteen hours850 hogs, averaging 300 lbs. Each, --two others placing them on theblock for the purpose. All these hogs were weighed singly on scales inthe course of eleven hours. Another hand trimmed the hams, 1, 700pieces, in "Cincinnati style, " as fast as they were separated from thecarcases. The hogs were thus cut up and disposed of at the rate of morethan one per minute! And this, I was told, was not much beyond theordinary day's work at the pork-houses. 

Steam-boat building is another important branch of trade in this place. 

 DOLLARS. In 1840 there were built here 33 boats of 15, 341 tons, costing 592, 600 1844 " " 37 " 7, 838 " 542, 500 1845 " " 27 " 6, 609 " 506, 500

3. _Its Periodical Press_. --There are sixteen daily papers! Of these, thirteen issue also a weekly number. Besides these, there are seventeenweekly papers unconnected with daily issues. But Cincinnati is liberalin her patronage of eastern publications. During the year 1845 onehouse, that of Robinson and Jones, the principal periodical depot inthe city, and through which the great body of the people are suppliedwith this sort of literature, sold of

Magazines and Periodicals 29, 822 numbers. Newspapers 25, 390[1] "Serial Publications 30, 826 "Works of Fiction 48, 961 " !

[Footnote 1: Besides an immense quantity sent direct per mail!]

It is estimated that the people of the United States, at the presenttime, support 1, 200 newspapers. There being no stamp-duty, no duty onpaper, and none on advertisements, the yearly cost of a daily paper, such as the _New York Tribune_ for instance, is only 5 dollars, or oneguinea. The price of a single copy of such papers is only 2 cents, orone penny; and many papers are only one cent, or a half-penny per copy. 

4. _Its Church Accommodation_. --By the close of the year 1845 thevoluntary principle, without any governmental or municipal aidwhatever, had provided the following places of worship:--

Presbyterian 12 New Jerusalem 1Methodist Episcopal 12 Universalist 1Roman Catholic 7 Second Advent 1Baptist 5 Mormons 1Lutheran 5 Friends 1Protestant Episcopal 4 Congregational 1"Christian Disciples" 4 Restorationists 1Methodist Protestants 3 United Brethren 1Jewish 2 "Christians" 1Welsh 2German Reformed 2 Total 67

This number of places of worship, at an average of 600 persons to each, would afford accommodation for nearly two-thirds of what the entirepopulation was at that time; and surely two-thirds of any community isquite as large a proportion as can, under the most favourablecircumstances, be expected to attend places of worship at any giventime. Behold, then, the strength and efficiency of the voluntaryprinciple! This young city, with all its wants, is far better furnishedwith places of worship than the generality of commercial andmanufacturing towns in England. 

Dr. Reed visited Cincinnati in 1834. He gives the population at thattime at 30, 000, and the places of worship as follows. I insert themthat you may see at a glance what the voluntary principle did in theeleven years that followed. 

Presbyterian 6 Campbellite Baptists 1Methodist 4 Jews 1Baptist 2 --Episcopalian 2 Total in 1834 21German Lutheran 2 Do. In 1845 67Unitarian 1 --Roman Catholic 1 Increase 46Swedes 1

5. _Its Future Prospects_. --The author of "Cincinnati in 1841" says, "Iventure the prediction that within 100 years from this time Cincinnatiwill be the greatest city in America, and by the year of our Lord 2, 000the greatest city in the world. " Our cousin here uses the superlativedegree when the comparative would be more appropriate. Deduct 80 or 90per cent, from this calculation, and you still leave before this city abright prospect of future greatness. 

We must, however, bid adieu to this "Queen of the West, " and pursue ourcourse against the Ohio's current towards Pittsburg. We steam alongbetween freedom and slavery. The contrast is striking. On this subjectthe remarks of the keen and philosophic M. De Tocqueville are soaccurate, and so much to the point, that I cannot do better thantranscribe and endorse them. 

"A century had scarcely elapsed since the foundation of the colonies, when the attention of the planters was struck by the extraordinary factthat the provinces which were comparatively destitute of slavesincreased in population, in wealth, and in prosperity, more rapidlythan those which contained the greatest number of negroes. In theformer, however, the inhabitants were obliged to cultivate the soilthemselves, or by hired labourers; in the latter, they were furnishedwith hands for which they paid no wages: yet, although labour andexpense were on the one side, and ease with economy on the other, theformer were in possession of the most advantageous system. * * * Themore progress was made, the more was it shown that slavery, which is socruel to the slave, is prejudicial to the master. 

"But this truth was most satisfactorily demonstrated when civilizationreached the banks of the Ohio. The stream which the Indians haddistinguished by the name of Ohio, or Beautiful River, waters one ofthe most magnificent valleys which have ever been made the abode ofman. Undulating lands extend upon both shores of the Ohio, whose soilaffords inexhaustible treasures to the labourer. On either bank the airis wholesome and the climate mild; and each of those banks forms theextreme frontier of a vast State: that which follows the numerouswindings of the Ohio on the left is Kentucky [in ascending the river itwas on our _right_]; that on the right [our left] bearing the name ofthe river. These two States differ only in one respect, --Kentucky hasadmitted slavery, but the State of Ohio has not. * * *

"Upon the left bank of the stream the population is rare; from time totime one descries a troop of slaves loitering in the half-desertfields; the primeval forest recurs at every turn; society seems to beasleep, man to be idle, and nature alone offers a scene of activity andlife. 

"From the right bank, on the contrary, a confused hum is heard, whichproclaims the presence of industry; the fields are covered withabundant harvests; the elegance of the dwellings announces the tasteand activity of the labourer; and man appears to be in the enjoyment ofthat wealth and contentment which are the reward of labour. "

The Kentucky and the Ohio States are nearly equal as to their area insquare miles. Kentucky was founded in 1775, and Ohio in 1788. In 1840the population of Kentucky was 779, 828, while that of Ohio was1, 519, 467--nearly double that of the former. By this time it is farmore than double. 

"Upon the left bank of the Ohio, " continues De Tocqueville, "labour isconfounded with the idea of slavery; upon the right bank it isidentified with that of prosperity and improvement: on the one side itis degraded, on the other it is honoured. On the former territory nowhite labourers can be found, for they would be afraid of assimilatingthemselves to the negroes; on the latter no one is idle, for the whitepopulation extends its activity and its intelligence to every kind ofimprovement. Thus the men whose task it is to cultivate the rich soilof Kentucky are ignorant and lukewarm; while those who are active andenlightened either do nothing or pass over into the State of Ohio, where they may work without dishonour. "

March the 9th was a dull day; but the scenery was of surpassing beauty. At night a terrible storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied withrain, compelled us to "lie to. " A charming morning succeeded. Duringthe forenoon, we passed a small town on the Virginia side calledElizabeth Town. An Indian mound was pointed out to me, which in sizeand shape resembled "Tomen y Bala" in North Wales. These artificialmounds are very numerous in the valleys of the Ohio and theMississippi. The ancient relics they are sometimes found to containafford abundant proofs that these fertile regions were once peopled bya race of men in a far higher state of civilization than the Indianswhen first discovered by the white man. The innocent and imaginativespeculations of a Christian minister in the State of Ohio on theseancient remains laid the foundation of the curious book of "Mormon. "

Nature being now arrayed in her winter dress, we could form but a faintconception of her summer loveliness when clothed in her gayest green. Hills were seen rising up, sometimes almost perpendicularly from thestream, and sometimes skirted with fertile fields extending to theriver's edge. Here a house on the brow of a hill, and there another atits base. Here the humble log hut, and there the elegant mansion, andsometimes both in unequal juxtaposition. The hills are in partsscolloped in continuous succession, presenting a beautiful display ofunity and diversity combined; but often they appear in isolated anddistinct grandeur, like a row of semi-globes; while, in otherinstances, they rise one above another like apples in a fruit-vase. Sometimes the rivulets are seen like silver cords fallingperpendicularly into the river; at other times, you discern them onlyby their musical murmurs as they roll on through deep ravines formed bytheir own action. These hills, for more than 100 miles before you cometo Pittsburg, are literally heaps of coal. In height they vary from 100to 500 feet, and nothing more is required than to clear off the soil, and then dig away the treasure. 

What struck me most was the immense number of children everywheregazing upon us from the river's banks. At settlements of not more thanhalf-a-dozen houses, I counted a groupe of more than twenty children. 

LETTER XXIII. 

Arrival at Pittsburg--Its Trade and Prospects--Temperance--Newspapers--Trip up the Monongahela to Brownsville--Staging by Night across theAlleghany Mountains--Arrival at Cumberland--The Railway Carriages ofAmerica. 

Arriving at Pittsburg in the middle of the night of the 10th of March, we remained on board till morning. As we had been accustomed on this"Clipper No. 2" to breakfast at half-past 7, I thought they surelywould not send us empty away. But no! we had to turn out at that earlyhour of a morning piercingly cold, and get a breakfast where we could, or remain without. This was "clipping" us rather too closely, after wehad paid seven dollars each for our passage and provisions. 

Pittsburg is in the State of Pennsylvania. Its progress has been rapid, and its prospects are bright. Seventy years ago the ground on which itstands was a wilderness, the abode of wild beasts and the huntingground of Indians. Its manufactures are chiefly those of glass, iron, and cotton. It is the Birmingham of America. Indeed one part of it, across the river, is called "Birmingham, " and bids fair to rival itsold namesake. Its advantages and resources are unparalleled. Itoccupies in reference to the United States, north and south, east andwest, a perfectly central position. It is surrounded with, solidmountains of coal, which--dug out, as I have intimated, with thegreatest ease--is conveyed with equal ease down inclined planes to thevery furnace mouths of the foundries and factories! This great workshopcommunicates directly, by means of the Ohio, the Mississippi, RedRiver, &c. , with immense countries, extending to Texas, to Mexico, andto the Gulph. Its population, already 70, 000, is (I believe)incomparably more intelligent, more temperate, more religious, and moresteady than that of any manufacturing town in England. In fact, Englandhas not much chance of competing successfully with America, unless herartizans copy more extensively the example of the American people inthe entire abandonment of intoxicating liquors. In travelling leisurelyfrom New Orleans to Boston (the whole length of the United States), andsitting down at all sorts of tables, on land and on water, private andpublic, I have never once seen even wine brought to the table. Nothingbut water was universally used!

At Pittsburg I bought three good-sized newspapers for 5 cents, ortwopence-halfpenny. One of them, _The Daily Morning Post_, was a largesheet, measuring 3 feet by 2, and well filled on both sides with closeletter-press, for 2 cents, or one penny. The absence of duty on paperand of newspaper stamps is no doubt one great cause of the advancedintelligence of the mass of the American people. What an absurd policyis that of the British Government, first to impose taxes upon_knowledge_, and then to use the money in promoting _education_!

At Pittsburg the Ohio ends, or rather begins, by the confluence of theAlleghany and the Monongahela rivers. We ascended the latter toBrownsville, about 56 miles. Having booked ourselves at an office, wehad to get into a smaller steamer on the other side of the bridge whichspans the river. The entire charge to Philadelphia was 12 dollars each. We went by the "Consul, " at half-past 8 A. M. Of the 11th of March. Thewater was very high, as had been the case in the Ohio all the way fromCincinnati. We had not proceeded far when I found the passengersa-stir, as if they had got to their journey's end. What was the matter?Why, we had come to falls, which it was very doubtful whether thesteamer could get over. The passengers were soon landed, and thesteamer, with the crew, left to attempt the ascent. There were locks athand by which, under ordinary circumstances, boats evaded thedifficulty; but the flood was now so great that they could not be used. Our steamer, therefore, stirred up her fires, raised her steam, broughtall her powers to bear, faced the difficulty, dashed into it, cutalong, and set at defiance the fury of the flood. "There shegoes!"--"No!"--"Yes!"--"No!"--"She's at a stand, "--the next moment shewas gliding back with the torrent: she had failed! But _nildesperandum_. "Try--try--try again!" An immense volume of smoke issuedfrom her chimney, and soon she seemed again to be fully inflated withher vapoury aliment. I expected every moment an explosion, and, whilerejoicing in our own safety on _terra firma_, felt tremblingly anxiousfor the lives of those on board. Having had sufficient time to "recoverstrength, " she made for the foaming surge once more. "There shegoes!"--"No!"--"Yes!"--she paused--but it was only for the twinkling ofan eye, --the next moment she was over, and the bank's of theMonongahela resounded with the joyful shouts of the gazing passengers. We now breathed more freely, and were soon on board again; but we hadnot advanced very far before we had to get out once more, inconsequence of other falls, which were stemmed with the sameinconvenience, the same anxiety, and the same success as in thepreceding instance. 

But ere long an obstacle more formidable than the falls presenteditself--a bridge across the river. This bridge the boats wereaccustomed to pass under, but the water was now so high that it couldnot be done; and we had to wait till another boat belonging to the samecompany, above the bridge, came down from Brownsville, and enabled usto effect an exchange of passengers; for neither of the boats could getunder the bridge. The down boat soon made its appearance; and a sceneof confusion ensued which I know not how to describe. Imagine two setsof passengers, about 150 persons in each set, exchanging boats! Threehundred travellers jostling against each other, with "plunder"amounting to some thousands of packages, to be removed a distance of300 or 400 yards, at the risk and responsibility of the owners, withoutany care or concern on the part of the officers of the boats! Trunksseemed to run on wheels, carpet-bags to have wings, and portmanteaus tojump about like grasshoppers. If you had put down one article whilelooking for the rest, in an instant it would be gone. In this amusingscuffle were involved several members of Congress, returning in the"down" boat from their legislative duties. The celebrated Judge M'Leanwas among them. But the safety of some box or parcel was just then--tomost of us--of more importance than all the great men in the world. Thebaggage storm being over, and the great division and trans-shipmenteffected, we moved forward in peace. By-and-by, however, each one wascalled upon to show his baggage, that it might be set apart for theparticular coach to which it would have to be consigned. This was amost troublesome affair. At half-past 6 in the evening we arrived atBrownsville, having been ten hours in getting over the 56 miles fromPittsburg. 

And now for the stage-coaches; for, _nolens volens_, "a-head" we mustgo that very night. About seven or eight coaches were filled by thoseof our fellow-passengers who, like ourselves, were going to cross themountains. Some of the vehicles set off immediately; but three waitedto let their passengers get tea or supper, meals which in America areidentical. About 8 P. M. We started on our cold and dreary journey of 73miles across the Alleghany Mountains. A stage-coach in America is avery different thing from the beautiful machine that used to pass bythat name in England. 

It has no outside accommodation, except for one person on the box alongwith the driver. The inside, in addition to the fore seat and the hindseat, has also a middle seat across the vehicle. Each of these threeseats holds three persons, making nine in all. In our stage we had tenpersons; but the ten, in a pecuniary point of view, were only eight anda half. The night was fearfully dark, and the roads were altogetherunworthy of the name. Yet there is an immense traffic on this route, which is the highway from East to West. The Americans, with all their"smartness, " have not the knack of making either good roads or goodstreets. About 11 P. M. We arrived at Uniontown, 12 miles fromBrownsville. There the horses were to be changed, an operation whichtook about an hour to accomplish. Three coaches were there together. The passengers rushed out of the inn, where we had been warmingourselves, and jumped into the coaches. Crack went the whips, off wentthe horses, and round went the wheels. But, alas! while we could hearthe rattling of the other coaches, our own moved not at all! "Driver, why don't you be off?" No answer. "Driver, push on. " No reply. "Goa-head, driver, --don't keep us here all night. " No notice taken. Webegan to thump and stamp. No response. At last I put my head outthrough the window. There _was_ no driver; and, worse still, there wereno horses! How was this? There was no "team, " we were told, for ourcoach! I jumped out, and began to make diligent inquiry: one told meone thing, and another another. At length I learned that there was a"team" in the stable, but there was no driver disposed to go. The onewho should have taken us was cursing and swearing in bed, and would notget up. This was provoking enough. "Where is the agent of thestage-coach company?"--"He lives about 47 miles off. " "Where is thelandlord of this house?"--"He is in bed. " There we were helpless anddeserted on the highroad, between 12 and 1 o'clock, in an extremelycold night, without any redress or any opportunity of appeal! It wasnobody's business to care for us. I groped my way, however, to someoutbuilding, where about half-a-dozen drivers were snoring in theirbeds, and, with the promise of making it "worth his while, " succeededin inducing one of them to get up and take us to the next place forchanging horses. But before we could get off it was 2 o'clock in themorning. We reached the next station, a distance of 10 miles, at 5P. M. , and paid our driver two dollars. In America drivers are notaccustomed to receive gratuities from passengers, but ours was apeculiar case. After a most wearisome day of travel, being tossed aboutin the coach like balls, expecting every moment to be upset, andfeeling bruised all over, we reached Cumberland at 9 P. M. , having been25 hours in getting over 73 miles, at the amazing rate of 3 miles anhour! In Cumberland we had to stay all night. 

At 8 A. M. The next day we set off by railway, or (as the Americanswould say) "by the cars, " to Baltimore. In committing my trunk to theluggage-van, I was struck with the simplicity and suitableness of thecheck system there adopted. A piece of tin, with a certain number uponit, was fastened by a strap to each article of baggage, and a duplicatepiece given to the passenger. I also remarked the size, shape, andfittings-up of the cars. They are from 30 to 50 feet long, having anaisle right through the middle from end to end, and on each side ofthat aisle rows of seats, each of sufficient length to accommodate twopersons. The arrangement reminded me of a little country meeting-house, the congregation amounting to from 50 to 100 persons. Each carriagecontained a stove, --at that season a most important article offurniture. The seats, which were very nicely cushioned, had their hacksso arranged as that the passengers could easily turn them as theypleased, and sit with either their faces or their backs "towards thehorses" as they might feel disposed. This part of the arrangement isindispensable, as these long carriages can never be turned. The hindpart in coming is the fore part in going, and _vice versa_. Thedistinctions of first, second, and third class carriages are unknown. That would be too aristocratic. But the "niggers" must go into theluggage-van. These republican carriages are very neatly fitted up, being mostly of mahogany with crimson velvet linings; but you oftenfeel annoyed that such dirty people should get in. 

LETTER XXIV. 

Journey by Railroad from Cumberland to Baltimore--A Tedious Stoppage--A Sabbath in Baltimore--Fruitless Inquiry--A Presbyterian Church andDr. Plummer--Richmond and its Resolutions--Dr Plummer's Pro slaveryManifesto--The Methodist Episcopal Church. 

The railway from Cumberland to Baltimore is 178 miles long, and (likemost lines in the States) is single. This fact is important, for ourcousins, in boasting of the hundreds or thousands of miles of railwaythey have constructed, forget to tell us that they are nearly allsingle. Here and there they have a double set of rails, like oursidings, to enable trains to pass each other. 

The ground was covered with snow, otherwise the scenery would have beenmagnificent. For a long time the Potomac was our companion. More thanonce we had to cross the stream on wooden bridges; so that we had itsometimes on our right and sometimes on our left, ourselves beingalternately in Virginia and in Maryland. When within 14 miles ofBaltimore, and already benighted, we were told we could not proceed, onaccount of some accident to a luggage-tram that was coming up. Theengine, or (as the Americans invariably say) the "locomotive, " had gotoff the rail, and torn up the ground in a frightful manner; but no onewas hurt. We were detained for 7 hours; and instead of getting intoBaltimore at 8 P. M. , making an average of about 15 miles an hour, whichwas the utmost we had been led to expect, we did not get there till 3A. M. , bringing our average rate per hour down to about 9-1/2 miles. Thetediousness of the delay was considerably relieved by a man sittingbeside me avowing himself a thorough Abolitionist, and a hearty friendof the coloured race. He spoke out his sentiments openly andfearlessly, and was quite a match for any one that dared to assail him. His name was Daniel Carmichael, of Brooklyn. He is a great railway andcanal contractor, and has generally in his employ from 500 to 800people. He is also a very zealous "teetotaler. " We had also a _Mrs. Malaprop_, from Baltimore, with us, who told us, among other marvellousthings, that in that city they took the _senses_ (census) of the peopleevery month. She was very anxious to let all around her know that herhusband was a medical man: she therefore wondered what "the Doctor" wasthen doing, what "the Doctor" thought of the non-arrival of the train, whether "the Doctor" would be waiting for her at the station, andwhether "the Doctor" would bring his own carriage, or hire one, to meether, &c. 

March 14. --The day on which we arrived at Baltimore was the Sabbath. Ina public room in the National Hotel, at which we were stopping, washung up a nicely-framed announcement of the order of services in one ofthe Presbyterian Churches. We wished, however, to find a Congregationalplace of worship, and set off with that view. It was a beautiful day, and Baltimore seemed to send forth its inhabitants by streets-full tothe various churches. In the _Old_ World I never saw anything like it, nor elsewhere in the _New_, except perhaps at Boston. All secularengagements seemed to be entirely suspended, and the whole city seemedto enjoy a Sabbath! As we walked along, I asked a young man if he coulddirect me to a Congregational church. He stared at me for a moment, andthen said, "Do you mean a church with pews in it?" I asked another, "Can you tell me where I shall find a Congregational church in thiscity?"--"What congregation do you mean, sir?" was the reply. Theyevidently knew nothing at all about Congregationalism. The fact was, asI afterwards understood, we had not yet come into its latitude; for inAmerica Presbyterianism and Congregationalism have hitherto beenmatters of latitude and longitude rather than of earnest conviction andfirm adherence. We now inquired for a _Presbyterian_ church, and weretold that there was one not far from where we then stood, in which Mr. Plummer--a very popular minister just come into the city--preached. Following the directions given, we came to a certain church, in frontof which two or three grave men stood talking to each other. In answerto the question, "What church is this?" one of these grave men said, with a good broad Scotch accent, "It's a Presbyterian church. " Theaccent gave a double confirmation to the answer. "Is it Mr. Plummer'schurch?" I continued. With the same accent, and in a tone of gentlerebuke, I was told, "Yes, it is _Doctor_ Plummer's. " We entered. Thecongregation were assembling. We were left either to stand in the aisleor to take a seat as we pleased. We preferred the latter. The buildingwas new, but built in the old Gothic style. The pews, the pulpit, thefront of the gallery, the organ, and the framework of the roof, whichwas all exposed, were of oak, which had been made to resemble in colourwood that has stood the test of 400 or 500 years. The windows also weredarkened. The whole affair was tremendously heavy, enough to mesmerizeany one. The congregation was large, respectable, and decorous. After afew glances around, to see if there was a negro pew anywhere, Iobserved several coloured faces peeping from a recess in the gallery, on the left side of the organ, --there was the "Negro Pew, " In due time_Doctor_ Plummer ascended the pulpit. He was a fine tall man, grey-haired, well dressed, with commanding aspect and a powerful voice. I ceased to wonder at the emphasis with which the Scotchman called him_Doctor_ Plummer. He was quite the _ideal_ of a _Doctor_. His text wasJohn iii. 18: "He that believeth on Him is not condemned, but he thatbelieveth not is condemned already, because he hath not believed in thename of the only begotten Son of God. " His subject was, that "man isjustly accountable to God for his belief. " This truth he handled in amasterly manner, tossing about as with a giant's arm Lord Brougham andthe Universalists. Notwithstanding my want of rest on the previousnight, the absurd heaviness of the building, and the fact that thesermon--which occupied a full hour--was all read, I listened withalmost breathless attention, and was sorry when he had done. 

And who was this Dr. Plummer? It was Dr. Plummer late of Richmond, inVirginia. "Richmond, " says Dr. Reed, "is still the great mart ofslavery; and the interests of morality and religion suffer from thiscause. Several persons of the greatest wealth, and therefore of thegreatest consideration in the town, are known slave-dealers; and theirinfluence, in addition to the actual traffic, is of courseunfavourable. The sale of slaves is as common, and produces as littlesensation, as that of cattle. It occurs in the main street, and beforethe door of the party who is commissioned to make the sale. " And whatwas the conduct of this Doctor of Divinity in reference to this stateof things? He sanctioned it! He pleaded for it! He lived upon it! Hewas once actually supported, either wholly or in part, by slave labour!The church of which he was the pastor was endowed with a number ofslaves. These slaves were hired out, and the proceeds were given in theway of stipend to the _Doctor_! Nor is this all. A few years ago theslave-holders of the South were greatly alarmed by the vigorous effortsof the Abolitionists of the North. It was about the time that theCharleston Post-office was plundered by a mob of several thousandpeople, and all the anti-slavery publications there found were made abonfire of in the street; and where "the clergy of all denominationsattended in a body, lending their sanction to the proceedings, andadding by their presence to the impressive character of the scene. " Onthat occasion the clergy of the city of Richmond were not less promptthan their brethren of Charleston in responding to the "publicsentiment. "' They resolved _unanimously_, --

"That we earnestly deprecate the unwarrantable and highly improperinterference of the people of any other State with the domesticrelations of master and slave. 

"That the example of our Lord Jesus Christ and his Apostles, in notinterfering with the question of slavery, but uniformly recognising therelations of master and servant, and giving full and affectionateinstruction to both, is worthy the imitation of all ministers of theGospel. 

"That we will not patronise nor receive any pamphlet or newspaper ofthe Anti-slavery Societies, and that we will discountenance thecirculation of all such papers in the community. 

"That the suspicions which have prevailed to a considerable extentagainst ministers of the Gospel and professors of religion in the Stateof Virginia, as identified with Abolitionists, are _wholly unmerited_;believing as we do, from extensive acquaintance with our churches andbrethren, that they are unanimous in opposing the pernicious schemes ofAbolitionists. "

After this, are men to be branded as "infidels, " because they say theAmerican churches are the "bulwarks of slavery?"

But what has all this to do with our fine-looking and dignified"_Doctor_?" I will tell you. When these resolutions were passed, he wasfrom home; but on his return, he lost no time in communicating to the"Chairman of the Committee of Correspondence" his entire concurrencewith what had been done, --and here are extracts from his letter:--

"I have carefully watched this matter from its earliest existence; andeverything I have seen or heard of its character, both from its patronsand its enemies, has confirmed me beyond repentance in the belief, that, let the character of the Abolitionists be what it may in thesight of the Judge of all the earth, this is the most meddlesome, impudent, reckless, fierce, and wicked excitement I ever saw. 

"If Abolitionists will set the country in a blaze, it is but right thatthey should receive the _first warming at the fire_. 

"Let it be proclaimed throughout the nation, that every movement madeby the fanatics (so far as it has any effect in the South) does butrivet every fetter of the bondman, and diminish the probability ofanything being successfully undertaken for making him either fit forfreedom or likely to obtain it. We have the authority of Montesquieu, Burke, and Coleridge, three eminent masters of the science of humannature, that, of all men, slave-holders are the most jealous of theirliberties. One of Pennsylvania's most gifted sons has lately pronouncedthe South the _cradle of liberty_. 

"Lastly. Abolitionists are like infidels, wholly unaddicted tomartyrdom for opinion's sake. Let them understand that _they will becaught_ [lynched] if they come among us, and they will take good heedto keep out of our way. There is not one man among them who has anymore idea of shedding his blood in the cause, than he has of making waron the Grand Turk. "

So much for my splendid D. D. , on whose lips I hung with such intenseinterest. I did not know all this at the time, or I should have feltvery differently. As he had but recently left Richmond when I saw him, it is not at all unlikely that those fine clothes he had on were thefruit of the slave's unrequited toil. He has always, I believe, stoodhigh among his brethren, and one or two excellent tracts of his arepublished by the American Tract Society. 

All denominations are here alike guilty in reference to their colouredbrethren. In this very city the General Conference of the MethodistEpiscopal Church for 1840 passed the following resolution:--

"That it is inexpedient and unjustifiable for any preacher to permitcoloured persons to give testimony against white persons in any Statewhere they are denied that privilege by law. "

Against this iniquitous resolution the official members of two of thecoloured Methodist Episcopal Churches in Baltimore immediatelyremonstrated and petitioned. The following powerful and patheticpassages are from their address:--

"The adoption of such a resolution by our highest ecclesiasticaljudicatory, --a judicatory composed of the most experienced and thewisest brethren in the Church, the choice selection of twenty-eightAnnual Conferences, --has inflicted, we fear, an irreparable injury uponeighty thousand souls for whom Christ died, --souls who, by this act ofyour body, have been stripped of the dignity of Christians, degraded inthe scale of humanity, and treated as criminals, for no other reasonthan the colour of their skin! Your resolution has, in our humbleopinion, _virtually_ declared that a mere physical peculiarity, thehandiwork of our all-wise and benevolent Creator, is _primâ facie_evidence of incompetency to tell the truth, or is an unerringindication of unworthiness to bear testimony against a fellow-beingwhose skin is denominated white. * * *

"Brethren, out of the abundance of the heart we have spoken. _Ourgrievance is before you_! If you have any regard for the salvation ofthe eighty thousand immortal souls committed to your care, --if youwould not _thrust_ beyond the pale of the Church _twenty-five thousandsouls in this city_, who have felt determined never to leave the Churchthat has nourished and brought them up, --if you regard us as childrenof one Common Father, and can upon reflection sympathize with us asmembers of the body of Christ, --if you would not incur the fearful, thetremendous responsibility of offending not only one, but many thousandsof his 'little ones, '--we conjure you to wipe from your journal theodious resolution which is ruining our people. "

This address was presented to one of the Secretaries, a delegate of theBaltimore Conference, and subsequently given by him to the Bishops. Howmany of the members of Conference saw it, is unknown. One thing iscertain, _it was never read to the Conference_. 

LETTER XXV. 

A Sabbath at Baltimore (continued)--A Coloured Congregation--TheThought of seeing Washington abandoned--Departure from Baltimore--Coloured Ladies in the Luggage-Van--American Railways--ChesapeakBay--Susquehannah--State of Delaware, and Abolition of Slavery--Philadelphia--Albert Barnes--Stephen Girard's Extraordinary Will. 

In the afternoon of my first Sabbath at Baltimore I found, after muchinquiry, a congregation of coloured people, who were some sort ofMethodists. My wife and I were the only white people in the place. Wewere treated with great politeness, and put, not in a pew apart byourselves, but in one of the best places they could find, in the verymidst of the congregation. A serious-looking coloured man opened theservice, with great propriety of manner and expression. He was theregular pastor. A black man, a stranger as I understood, preached. Histext (he said) was, "Behold, I come quickly;" and they would find it inthe Book of Revelation. But chapter and verse were not given, nor hadhe the Bible open in Revelation at all. I suspected that he could notread; and that suspicion was confirmed by the amount of nonsense whichhe soon uttered. At first his words were "few and far between, " utteredin a tone of voice scarcely audible. Soon, however, he worked bothhimself and his audience into a tremendous phrenzy. The burden of hissong was--how John had lived to a very great age, in spite of allattempts to put him to death; how his enemies had at last decided totry the plan of throwing him into a "kittle of biling ile;" how God hadsaid to him, "Never mind, John, --if they throw thee into that kittle, I'll go there with thee, --they shall bile me too;" how John wastherefore taken up alive; and how his persecutors, baffled in all theirefforts to despatch him, ultimately determined to throw their victimupon a desolate island, and leave him there to live or perish as hemight. During the delivery of all this nonsense, the laughing, theshouting, the groaning, and the jumping were positively terrific. Itwas Methodism gone mad. How disgraceful, that American Christians, socalled, with all their schools and colleges, and with all their effortsto send the Gospel to Africa, should leave these people at their verydoors thus to feed upon "husks" and "ashes!" Between 500 and 600 peoplewere listening to this ignorant man, giving as the pure and positiveword of God what was of very doubtful authority, intermingled with thecrudities of his own brain. I wished to stay through the service, andperhaps at the close express my fraternal feelings; but I was soshocked and grieved at this ranting exhibition that I felt itunwarrantable to remain. 

Leaving these unfortunate people, we peeped into two cathedralchurches, --that of the Church of England, or (as it is here called) theProtestant Episcopal Church, and that of the Church of Rome. Bothbuildings are very splendid. We had been in the former some time beforewe felt quite sure that we were not in a Popish place of worship, sopapistical were its aspect and arrangements. It was evident thatPuseyism, or Popery in some form, had there its throne and its sceptre. The avowedly Popish cathedral was crowded with worshippers; and, to theshame of Protestantism be it spoken, black and coloured people were_there_ seen intermingled with the whites in the performance of theirreligious ceremonies! The State of Maryland, of which Baltimore is thecapital, having been first settled by a colony of Roman Catholics, might be expected to be a stronghold of Popery. Yet, it is not so. Theadherents of that system are but a small minority of the population. 

Baltimore is, however, a stronghold of slavery. Here Garrison'sindignation against the system was first kindled--here FrederickDouglas tasted some of its bitter draughts--and here Torrey died itsvictim. The following are specimens of the manner in which the trade inhuman flesh is carried on in this city:--

"NEGROES WANTED. --I have removed from my former residence. WestPratt-street, to my new establishment on Camden-street, immediately inthe rear of the Railroad Depôt, where I am permanently located. Personsbringing Negroes by the cars will find it very convenient, as it isonly a few yards from where the passengers get out. Those havingNegroes for sale will find it to their advantage to call and see me, asI am at all times paying the highest prices in cash. 

"J. S. DONOVAN, Balt. Md. "

"o28--6m*. "

"CASH FOR FIVE HUNDRED NEGROES. --At the old establishment of Slatter's, No. 244, Pratt-street, Baltimore, between Sharp and Howard Streets, where the highest prices are paid, which is well known. We have largeaccommodations for Negroes, and always buying. Being regular shippersto New Orleans, persons should bring their property where nocommissions are paid, as the owners lose it. All communicationsattended to promptly by addressing

"H. F. SLATTER. "

"j5--6m*. "

Before and since my arrival in the United States, I had thought much ofseeing Washington, and, if possible, Congress in session. But such wasthe severity of the weather that we could not cross the Alleghaniesbefore that assembly had risen and dispersed. At Baltimore I was withintwo hours' journey of the capital. Should I go and see it? No; for whatcan _there_ be found to gratify the friend of freedom and of man? TheMissouri compromise, the annexation of Texas, and the Mexican War, areall associated with Washington. The capital itself is but a greatslave-mart, with its baracoons and manacles, its handcuffs andauction-stands! Ay, and all this in full view of the national edifice, wherein is deposited that instrument which bears on its head and frontthe noble sentiment--"That all men are created equal; that they areendowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights; that amongthese are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. " Under theinfluence of these recollections, I abandoned the idea of visitingWashington. 

At 9 o'clock on Monday morning we set off by railway for Philadelphia. While I was taking a last glance at my trunks in the luggage-van, atthe Baltimore station, about half-a-dozen very clean and respectablecoloured ladies came up, and made for the said van as a matter ofcourse. It was the only accommodation that would be allowed them, though they paid the same fare as other people! They were ladies towhom any gentleman in England would have been proud to resign a seat. But in the land of equality, they were consigned to the cold, dark, anddirty regions of the luggage-van. I noticed one important differencebetween the railway economy of England and that of America. In theformer, as you know, the railway is haughty, exclusive, andaristocratic. It scorns all fellowship with common roads, and dasheson, either under or over the houses, with arbitrary indifference. InAmerica, it generally condescends to pass along the public streets tothe very centre of the city, the engine being taken off or put to inthe suburbs, and its place _intra muros_, if I may so say, supplied byhorses. In leaving Baltimore, the engine was attached _before_ we gotquite out of the city; and we were going for some time along the commonroad, meeting in one place a horse and cart, in another a man onhorseback, in another a pair of oxen fastened to each other, and so on. Dangerous enough, apparently! yet railway accidents are much lessfrequent in America than in England. It is, besides, an immense savingof capital. 

In our progress, we had to cross several arms of the Chesapeak Bay. These arms were from one to two miles wide, and the railway is carriedover them upon posts driven into the ground. It seemed like crossingthe sea in a railway carriage. At Havre de Grace we had to cross theSusquehannah River. This word Susquehannah is Indian, and meansliterally, I am told, "the rolling thunder. " In crossing it, however, we heard no thunder, except that of the luggage-van over our heads, onthe top of the steamer. Here we changed carriages. We soon got sight ofthe Delaware, which kept us company nearly all the way to Philadelphia. Delaware, the smallest of all the States except Rhode Island, weentirely crossed. A few days before, Delaware had well nigh doneherself great honour. Her House of Representatives carried, by amajority, a vote for the abolition of slavery within her boundaries;but the measure was lost in her Senate by a majority of one or two. TheState legislature will not meet again for two years. All parties areconfident that the measure will then be triumphantly carried through. In America, however, the abolition of slavery in any State does notalways mean freedom to the slaves. Too often it is a meretransportation of them to the Southern States. Had Delaware passed alaw that all slaves should he free at the expiration of five years, orthat all children born after a certain period should he free, theowners of slaves would have had an obvious interest in disposing oftheir human property to the Southern traders _before_ that periodarrived. Mothers, too, would have been hastened Southward to give birthto their offspring; so that the "peculiar institution" might lose noneof its prey. Measures for the abolition of slavery in any part ofAmerica do not arise from sympathy with the negro, and from a wish toimprove his condition and promote his happiness, but from aversion tohis presence, or perhaps from a conviction that the system of slaveryis expensive and impolitic. Those who feel kindly towards theircoloured brother, and act towards him under the impulse of pure andlofty philanthropy, are, I am sorry to say, very few indeed. 

These views may appear severe and uncharitable towards the Americanpeople, but they are confirmed by M. De Tocqueville. "When a NorthernState declared that the son of the slave should be born free, " observesthat impartial writer, "the slave lost a large portion of his marketvalue, since his posterity was no longer included in the bargain, andthe owner had then a strong interest in transporting him to the South. Thus the same law prevents the slaves of the South from coming to theNorthern States, and drives those of the North to the South. The wantof free hands is felt in a State in proportion as the number of slavesdecreases. But, in proportion as labour is performed by free hands, slave labour becomes less productive; and the slave is then a uselessor an onerous possession, whom it is important to export to thoseSouthern States where the same competition is not to be feared. _Thusthe abolition of slavery does not set the slave free: it merelytransfers him from one master to another, and from the North to theSouth_. " M. De Tocqueville adds, in a note, "The States in whichslavery is abolished usually do what they can to render their territorydisagreeable to the negroes as a place of residence; and as a kind ofemulation exists between the different States in this respect, theunhappy blacks can only choose the least of the evils which besetthem. " This is perfectly true. 

Crossing the Schuilkyl, we arrived about 3 o'clock P. M. InPhiladelphia, "the city of brotherly love, " having performed thejourney of 97 miles in six hours, a rate of only 16 miles an hour!

In Philadelphia were many men and things that I wished to see. Firstand foremost, in my professional curiosity, was Albert Barnes; butbeing anxious to push on to New York that night, I had but an hour anda half to stay. Of a sight of the famous author of the "Notes, " I wastherefore compelled to deny myself. My regret was diminished, when Ilearned from an English minister of high standing, who, under theinfluence of the best feelings, and with an excellent introduction, hadcalled upon the Commentator, that he received him with a degree ofindifference bordering on rudeness. 

In Philadelphia there is no Congregational Church. A few years ago JohnTodd, the well-known author of "The Student's Guide, " attempted toraise one. He was but little countenanced, however, by Albert Barnesand the Presbyterians, and failed. 

In passing through this city, I had a distant glimpse of a mostremarkable institution. M. Girard, an old bachelor, a native of France, who had accumulated immense wealth, died a few years ago, leaving bywill the enormous sum of two millions of dollars, or upwards of fourhundred thousand pounds sterling, to erect and endow a college for theaccommodation and education of three hundred orphan boys. The ground onwhich it was to be built, consisting of no less than 45 acres, heordered to be enclosed with a high solid wall, capped with marble, andlined upon the top with long iron spikes. He also inserted in his willthe following extraordinary clause: "I enjoin and require that noecclesiastic, missionary, or minister of any sect whatever, shall everhold or exercise any station or duty whatever in said college; norshall any such person ever be admitted for any purpose, or as avisitor, within the premises appropriated to the purpose of saidcollege. " An attempt was made before the Supreme Court of the UnitedStates to set aside this will, and Daniel Webster, the great NewEngland barrister, delivered a powerful "plea" against it; but theattempt was overruled. For some years the building has been slowlyproceeding, and is not yet ready for occupation. Had I had time, Icould not, being a minister, have entered the premises. To me, and toall like me, "_Procul, procul, este, profani_" is chiselled on everystone!--a singular monument of the priest-hating propensities of theold French Revolutionists. 

LETTER XXVI. 

Departure from Philadelphia--A Communicative Yankee--Trenton--TheMansion of Joseph Bonaparte--Scenes of Brainerd's Labours One HundredYears ago--First Impressions of New York--150, Nassau-street--PrivateLodgings--Literary Society--American Lodging-houses--A Lecture onAstronomy--The "Negro Pew" in Dr. Patton's Church. 

At half-past 4 in the afternoon of March 15 we left Philadelphia byrailway for New York, which we reached at 10 P. M. , an average again ofabout 16 miles an hour. In this journey I met with a very communicativeYankee, who, though not a religious man, was proud to trace hisgenealogy to the "Pilgrim Fathers, " and, through them, to the Normans. Intercourse, he said, had been maintained for the last two centuriesbetween the English and American branches of the family. He also tookcare to inform me that the head of the English branch was a baronet. This was but one of many instances in which I found among ourTransatlantic friends a deep idolatry of rank and titles. In talking oftheir own political institutions, he declared their last two Presidentsto have been--the one a fool, and the other a knave, --Polk the fool, and Tyler the knave. He entertained an insane and cruel prejudiceagainst those whose skin was not exactly of the same colour with hisown, and "thanked God" that he had no African blood in his veins. 

We passed through Trenton, celebrated as the scene of a bloody conflictbetween the British and the American forces. The Americans, I am sorryto say, dwell too fondly on the remembrance of those deadly struggles. They cherish the spirit of war. The influence of Elihu Burritt and his"bond of brotherhood" is indeed greatly needed on both sides of theAtlantic. 

We also passed what once was the residence of ex-royalty--the princelymansion which Joseph Bonaparte erected for himself after he lost thethrone of Spain. It is surrounded with about 900 acres of land, his ownprivate property; and was still in the family, though about to be sold. What a home has America proved both to fallen greatness and tostruggling poverty! Princes and peasants alike find shelter here. 

This journey conducted us through New Brunswick, Elizabeth Town, Newark, --places associated with the name of David Brainerd, and often(a hundred years ago) the scenes of his toils and travels. But whereare the descendants of those Indians on whose behalf he felt suchintense solicitude? Alas! not a vestige of them is to be seen. 

Having thus crossed New Jersey State, we came to New Jersey city, wherewe crossed a ferry to New York. After rather more than the usual amountof anxiety about baggage, &c. , we reached the Planter's Hotel a littleafter 10 at night. 

Next morning I sallied forth to gaze, for the first time, at thewonders of New York. The state of the streets impressed meunfavourably. The pigs were in the enjoyment of the same unstintedliberty as at Cincinnati. Merchants and storekeepers spread their goodsover the entire breadth of the causeway, and some even to the verymiddle of the street. Slops of all sorts, and from all parts of thehouses, were emptied into the street before the front doors! The asheswere disposed of in a very peculiar manner. Each house had, on the edgeof the parapet opposite, an old flour-barrel, or something of the sort, into which were thrown ashes, sweepings, fish-bones, dead rats, and allkinds of refuse. A dead rat very frequently garnished the top of thebarrel. This was the order of things, not in small by-streets only, butalso in the very best streets, and before the very best houses. Thepavement too, even in Broadway, was in a very wretched state. 

I made for No. 150, Nassau-street, where the Tract Society, the HomeMissionary Society, and the Foreign Missionary Society have theirrooms. To some parties in that house I had introductions. The brethrenconnected with those societies treated me with great kindness andcordiality, and made me feel as though I had been in our own missionaryrooms in Blomfield-street. By their aid I obtained private lodgings, ina good situation and in good society. 

The landlady was a Quaker, with half-a-dozen grown-up daughters. Ourfellow-lodgers consisted of the Rev. A. E. Lawrence, Assistant-Secretaryof the American Home Missionary Society (who had a few months beforebecome the landlady's son-in-law); the Rev. Mr. Martyn, and his wife, awoman of fine talents, and editor of "The Ladies' Wreath;" the Rev. Mr. Brace, an editor in the employ of the Tract Society; Mr. Daniel Breed, M. D. , a Quaker, and principal of a private academy for young gentlemen(also the landlady's son-in-law); Mr. Oliver Johnson, a sub-editor ofthe _Daily Tribune_, and a well-known Abolitionist; and Mr. Lockwood, aretired grocer, --who, having gained a small independence, was thusenjoying it with his youthful wife and child in lodgings. 

Into society better adapted to my taste and purposes I could not havegone. This mode of life is very extensively adopted in America, --married couples, with families, living in this manner foryears, without the least loss of respectability. They seldom havesitting-rooms distinct from their bed-rooms, which are made to answerboth purposes; and as to meals, all meet to eat the same things, at thesame table, and at the same time. The custom is economical; but it hasan injurious effect upon character, especially in the case of thewomen. The young wife, not being called upon to exercise herself indomestic economy, is apt to become idle, slovenly, and--in a certainsense--worthless. The softening associations and influences, and eventhe endearments, of "home, " are lost. There is no _domesticity_. 

In the evening of the 17th I went to the Broadway Tabernacle, to hear alecture on Astronomy from Professor Mitchell of Cincinnati, no ordinaryman. Although the admission fee was half-a-dollar, upwards of athousand persons were present. Without either diagrams or notes, theaccomplished lecturer kept his audience in breathless attention forupwards of an hour. He seemed to be a devout, unassuming man, and threwa flood of light on every subject he touched. His theme was the recentdiscovery of the Leverrier planet; and perhaps you will not bedispleased if I give you a summary of his lucid observations. Inobserving how the fluctuations of the planet Herschel had ultimatelyled to this discovery, he said:

"For a long time no mind dared to touch the problem. At length a youngastronomer rises, unknown to fame, but with a mind capable of graspingall the difficulties involved in any of these questions. I refer ofcourse to LEVERRIER. He began by taking up the movements of Mercury. Hewas dissatisfied with the old computations and the old tables; and heventured to begin anew, and to compute an entirely new set of tables. With these new tables, he predicted the _precise instant_ when theplanet Mercury, on the 18th of May, 1845, would touch the sun, andsweep across it. The time rolls round when the planet is to be seen, and his prediction verified or confuted. The day arrives, but, alas!for the computer, the clouds let down their dark curtains, and veil thesun from his sight. Our own Observatory had just been finished; and ifthe audience will permit, I will state briefly my own observations uponthe planet. I had ten long years been toiling. I had commenced whatappeared to be a hopeless enterprise. But finally I saw the buildingfinished. I saw this mighty telescope erected, --I had adjusted it withmy own hands, --I had computed the precise time when the planet wouldcome in contact with the sun's disk, and the precise point where thecontact would take place; but when it is remembered that only about thethousandth part of the sun's disk enters upon the field of thetelescope, the importance of directing the instrument to the rightpoint will be realized. Five minutes before the computed time of thecontact, I took my place at the instrument. The beautiful machinerythat carries the telescope with the sun was set in motion, and theinstrument directed to that part of the sun's disk at which it wasanticipated the contact would take place. And there I sat, withfeelings which no one in this audience can realize. It was my firsteffort. All had been done by myself. After remaining there for whatseemed to be long hours, I inquired of my assistant how much longer Iwould have to wait. I was answered _four minutes_. I kept my place forwhat seemed an age, and again inquired as before. He told me that butone minute had rolled by. It seemed as if time had folded his wings, soslowly did the moments crawl on. I watched on till I was told that butone minute remained; and, within sixteen seconds of the time, I had thealmost bewildering gratification of seeing the planet break thecontact, and slowly move on till it buried itself round and deep andsharp in the sun. 

"I refer to this fact for two reasons, --first, to verify Leverrier;and, second, to impress upon your minds the desirableness of locatingour observatories in different parts of the earth. No Europeanastronomer could have made this observation, because in theirlongitudes the sun would have set previous to the contact of the planetwith its disk. I had the gratification of furnishing these observationsto Leverrier himself, who reported upon them to the Academy ofSciences. The triumph of Leverrier was complete. It was after this thatArago, seeing the characteristics of his mind, said to him, 'Take upthe movements of the planet Herschel, --watch them, analyze them, andtell us what it is that causes them. ' Leverrier throws aside all otheremployments, and gives his mind to the investigation of this subject. He begins entirely back. He takes up the movements of the planetsJupiter and Saturn, and investigates them anew: he leaves nothinguntouched. Finally, after having in the most absolute manner computedall the influence they exercise upon the planet Herschel, he says, 'Inow know positively all existing causes that disturb the planet; butthere is an outstanding power that disturbs it not yet accounted for, and now let me rise to a knowledge of that outstanding cause. ' He didwhat no other man ever had attempted. He cleared up alldifficulties;--he made all daylight before his gaze. And now, how shallI give to you an account of the train of reasoning by which he reachedout into unknown space, and evoked from its bosom a mighty world? Ifyou will give me the time, I will attempt to give you an idea of hismighty workings in the field of science. 

"In the first place, let it be remembered that the planets circulatethrough the heavens in nearly the same plane. If I were to locate thesun in the centre of the floor, in locating the planets around it, Ishould place them upon the floor in the same plane. The first thingthat occurred to Leverrier, in looking for the planet, was this, --heneed not look out of the plane of the ecliptic. Here, then, was onequarter in which the unknown body was to be found. The next thing wasthis, --where is it located, and what is its distance from the sun? Thelaw of Bode gave to him the approximate distance. He found the distanceof Saturn was about double that of Jupiter, and the distance ofHerschel twice that of Saturn; and the probability was that the newplanet would be twice the distance of Herschel, --and as Herschel'sdistance is 1, 800, 000 miles, the new planet's would be 3, 600, 000. Having approximated its distance, what is its periodic time?--for if hecan once get its periodic time, he can trace it out without difficulty. According to the third of Kepler's laws, as the square of the period ofHerschel is to the square of the period of the unknown planet, so isthe cube of the distance of Herschel to the cube of the distance of theunknown planet. There is only one term unknown. The periodic time ofHerschel we will call 1, and its distance 1, and by resolving theequation, we find the periodic time of the new planet to be a fractionless than three times that of Herschel, or about 220 years. Now, if itbe required to perform 360 degrees in 220 years, it will perform abouta degree and a half in one year. Only one thing more remains to beaccomplished. If it is possible to get the position of the unknown bodyat _any time_, we can trace it up to where it should be in 1847. 

"First, then, let us suppose the sun, Herschel, and the new planet incertain fixed positions, which we will represent as follows, --

[Illustration: A B C

 Sun. Herschel. Unknown, or Leverrier Planet. ]

"It will be observed that a line drawn out from the sun to the rightwill pass through Herschel, and if continued will intersect the newplanet. It is very apparent that, when these three orbs occupy theposition assigned them above, the influence of the unknown planet uponHerschel will be exercised in the highest degree, and consequently thatHerschel will be drawn farther from the sun at that juncture than atany other; and if we know where _Herschel_ is, when this effect isproduced, by prolonging the line through Herschel outward, it must passthrough the new planet. The delicate observations upon Herschel gavethis result, and showed when it was that it was swayed farthest fromthe sun. By taking the place occupied by the planet at that time, andincreasing it onward one degree and a half per annum, we can point outthe place it must occupy at any given period. In September last we findLeverrier communicating these results to his friends in Berlin. Theyare provided with charts, on which every observed star is mapped down;and if any new object presents itself in the heavens, it is immediatelysubjected to a rigid scrutiny. On the very night on which Leverrier'sletter had been received, we find the telescope directed to thedesignated point in the heavens. A stranger appears, but has only theaspect of a fixed star. Long did the eye watch that night, but nomotion was found. When twenty-four hours rolled round, and it was oncemore possible to fix the instrument upon this strange body, it hadmoved in the precise degree and direction computed. The new planet wasfound. The news spread with the utmost rapidity throughout theworld, --all Europe was electrified, and soon the intelligence crossedthe waters. Our telescope was directed to this object. All had hithertofailed, --no eye had ever seen it round and planet-like from its disk. The evening finally came round for the examination. Time moved on itsleaden wings; but twilight faded away at length, and I took my seat, with my assistant, at the instrument. I directed the telescope to thatpoint of the heavens. I found four stars in the field of view. Thefirst was brought to the field of view of the instrument, andpronounced to be a fixed star; and so with the second. The third wasbrought forward; and before it had reached the centre of the field, Iheard the exclamation, 'There it is!' and there it was, as bright andbeautiful as Jupiter himself. Here was a result not attained by anyother instrument in the world. When we know that a body is a planet, then, and not till then, do we find the disk. The great rival of ourinstrument had seen it, but did not recognise it. 

"Before five minutes had elapsed, the micrometical wires pronounced itsdiameter to be 40, 000 miles. Here were results such as no previous onehad attained, I mention it, because I think it is right that our owncountry, which has but just commenced its career in this science, should know what is her due; and I trust the day is not far distantwhen we shall become as distinguished for our proficiency, for ourlearning, for our researches, and for our efforts in behalf ofAstronomy, as we have hitherto been for our profound neglect ofeverything belonging to this sublime science. "

So much had been recently said in England about the "Negro Pew" in Dr. Patton's Church that I naturally felt curious to see it for myself, resolving (if possible) to sit in it. On Sabbath morning the 21st ofMarch I set off with my wife on this errand, taking for our guide as tothe precise position of the "locality" Mr. Page's "Letter ofApology, "--in which it was stated that in that church they treated thecoloured people well; that they were elevated above the rest of thecongregation, and nearer heaven; and, finally, that they occupied aposition of honour, being on the right hand of the minister, as JesusChrist was on the right hand of God! We found two coloured people--anold man and an old woman--seated in the front pew close to theminister's right hand; and at once concluded that the section of pewsat the end wall must be the favoured spot, the terrestrio-celestialelevation commonly called the "Negro Pew. " We advanced, and installedour white faces in the pew immediately behind the sable couple. The oldlady seemed really alarmed, and, with amusing earnestness, motioned usto take a seat elsewhere. Remonstrance was all in vain, --we weredetermined to sit among the happy favourites. At this time but fewpersons were present. By-and-by the children of the Sunday-school weremarched into the neighbouring pews on the other side of the aisle, andone of the lady teachers made eager signs for us to come away from ourstrange position. I nodded an intimation that we were all right, andperfectly comfortable. After the lapse of a few moments, another politeand compassionate lady actually rose and came to the pew-door toremonstrate with us. 

In a serious yet coaxing tone, she said, "Won't you take a seat here onthis side of the aisle?"

"No, thank you, madam, " I replied; "we are quite comfortable. "

"But, " she continued, in a voice of deep commiseration, "this is theplace allotted to the coloured people. "

"Thank you, " I rejoined; "we have made no mistake. "

"Well, just as you please, sir!" (as though she had said _De gustibusnon disputandum_) and with that she retreated. 

The eyes of all in the synagogue were upon us. The little peoplewhispered, and the big people stared, and all the people marvelled. 

The morning was dark and wet, and yet (as usual) the Venetian blindswere all down. The gallery was occupied by three classes of persons:the black people--about a dozen in number--on the "right hand, " thesinging people in front, and the Sunday-school children everywhereelse. The regular congregation, amounting perhaps to 300, were alldownstairs. 

Dr. Patton ascended the pulpit-stairs with his cloak on, placed amanuscript "fresh from the mint" under the cushion, sat down, took outhis pocket-handkerchief, applied it vigorously, and then gazedleisurely around. 

The pulpit service commenced with a short prayer; then followed singingby the choir, all else sitting silent. The tenth chapter of Romans wasread; then came the long prayer, in which the Doctor prayed for theabolition of slavery, and for the spread of the Gospel. The text, whichsucceeded, was Rom. X. 3, 4. Having noticed the context, the preacherproposed--

I. To explain the text. (Here he examined very critically the meaningof the Greek word [Greek: dikai-osunous], quoting Moses Stuart andothers. )

II. To designate those who go about to establish their ownrighteousness. 

III. To remonstrate against such conduct, as being unnecessary, criminal, and dangerous. 

The discourse was sound and good, but every word read. The disorderlyconduct of the children in the gallery proved a great annoyance; andfor all the solicitude of the ladies to get us away from the vicinityof coloured skins, not one of them had the politeness to offer useither Bible or hymn-book. 

This visit of ours to the "Negro Pew" was immediately laid hold of bythe Abolitionists, and made to go the whole round of their papers as a"testimony against caste. " This provoked into action the prolix pen ofthe celebrated Mr. Page, who wasted on the subject an immense quantityof ink and paper. "Page" after page did he pen; continued to do so, tomy certain knowledge, for about three months after; and, for aught Iknow to the contrary, he may be _paging_ away to this very day. Thiscommotion answered my purpose exceedingly well, --my object being tobear testimony against the impiousness of such a distinction andseparation in the house of God. It is, however, but justice to Dr. Patton to observe that the case is not singular, the peculiar celebrityof his "Negro Pew" arising entirely from the imbecile and somewhatprofane apology volunteered by Mr. Page. In point of fact, Dr. Pattonand his people, as I ascertained in conversation with him on thesubject, are rather in advance of their neighbours in kind feelingtowards the coloured people. 

LETTER XXVII. 

A Presbyterian Church in New York, and its Pastor--The Abbotts andtheir Institution--Union Theological Seminary--Dr. Skinner'sChurch--New York University--A threatening "Necessity"--Prejudiceagainst Colour--A Fact connected with Mr. ------'s Church--Another Factin Pennsylvania--State of Public Opinion in New York--An Interview withDr. Spring--A Missionary Meeting in Dr. Adams's Church. 

In the evening I preached by engagement for the Rev. ------, in the---- Presbyterian Church. It was pouring with rain, and not more than150 persons were present. The pastor, who had visited me in a veryfraternal manner, kindly proposed to devote part of the next day toshowing me some of the "lions" of the city. The first place we visitedwas Mount Vernon, the institution of the Abbotts. It is a seminary foryoung ladies, with 200 pupils. The first of the brothers to whom wewere introduced was John Abbott, the author of "The Mother at Home. " Heis apparently 40 years of age. He introduced us to the room of thesenior class, which consisted of 30 or 40 young ladies, from 14 to 25years of age. They were engaged in a French exercise with Jacob Abbott, the author of "The Young Christian, " "The Corner Stone, " "The Way fora Child, " &c. , &c. The exercise over, we were introduced to Mr. JacobAbbott, and were requested to accompany him to a private sitting-room. I found him an exceedingly pleasant and unassuming man. He is 43 yearsof age, but looks younger. He wrote both "The Young Christian" and "TheCorner Stone" when he was only 25. John is two years younger thanJacob; Charles, to whom also I was introduced, is younger still; andGorham, whom I did not then see, is the youngest of the four. All areministers, though not pastors, --all highly intellectual men, andconnected more or less with this seminary, which is one of the bestconducted I have ever seen. The pupils are not boarders, but they payfrom 10_l. _ to 15_l. _ a year for their tuition alone. I subsequentlymade another visit to this institution in company with my wife, uponwhom Mr. Jacob Abbott had very politely called. 

Mr. ------ intended to introduce me to Dr. Spring, but he was not athome. He then took me to the Union Theological Seminary. In thatinstitution about 120 young men are preparing for the Christianministry. The library contains _twenty thousand_ volumes on theologyalone--musty and prosy tomes! What a punishment it would be to becompelled to wade through the whole! We saw neither professors norstudents. My principal recollection of the place is that of feelingintensely hungry, and smelling at the same time the roast beef onwhich, in some of the lower regions of the buildings, the young divineswere regaling themselves. In vain I wished to join them in thatexercise. 

When we came out, my guide proposed to take me to see Dr. Robinson. Much as I wanted to see the author of the "Greek Lexicon, " and theTraveller in Palestine, there were other claims that then more urgentlypressed themselves. I had breakfasted at 7, and it was now near 1. Igave my friend a hint to that effect. But he overruled it by saying, "It is close by, and won't take us many minutes. " We went, but theDoctor was not in. We were now opposite Dr. Skinner's Church, and myfriend insisted on my going to see it. It will hold about 1, 000 people. All the pews are cushioned and lined, and the place has a decided airof aristocracy about it. The school-room, the lecture-room, the vestry, &c. , were very complete and convenient. "How strange, " I observed to myfriend, "that you should so far exceed us in the comfort of your placesof worship, and at the same time be so far behind us in domesticcomforts. " "_That_" said he, "was the principle of the Puritans, --thehouse of God first, their own after. " I ventured to ask him whatsalaries ministers in New York generally received. He told me from1, 000 to 4, 000 dollars, or from 200_l. _ to 800_l. _ "My own, " he added, "is 2, 000 dollars. " We were now not far from the New York University. "You must go and see that, " said he. I went, but saw nothing particularexcept the library, empty lecture-rooms, and chapel, --no professors. Myfriendly guide pointed to a portrait of Lord Lyndhurst, told me withevident pride that he was a Yankee, and marvelled at my ignorance ofthe fact. 

From time to time I had given him hints that I was afraid of being toolate for dinner at my lodgings; and when the sight-seeing was at lastended, he very coolly and complacently said, "Now, if you really thinkyou are too late for dinner at your place, I shall be under the_necessity_ of asking you to go and take a plate with me. " Those werethe _ipsissima verba_. I could scarcely keep my gravity; but I replied, "Thank you, sir; I want to go to the centre of the city, and I caneasily get a dinner at any eating-house. " He both nodded and expressedan entire concurrence, and seemed to think it an _admirable_arrangement. In parting, he pressed me to preach for him on thefollowing Thursday, but I declined. The next day I was told, onunquestionable authority, that two or three years ago one of the eldersof this gentleman's church, meeting a man from South America whom hetook to be a mixture of Spaniard and Indian, requested his company tochurch. The stranger assented, and sat with him in his pew. He likedthe service, became interested, and went again and again. At last itwas whispered that he was a "Nigger, "--_i. E. _ had a slight mixture ofAfrican blood in him. The next week a meeting of the Session was held, at which it was unanimously resolved that the intruder's entrance intothe body of the church must be prohibited. Two men were stationed atthe door for that purpose. The stranger came. He was stopped, and toldthat he could not be allowed to enter the body of the church, therebeing a place up in the gallery for coloured people. The manremonstrated, and said he had been invited to take a seat in Mr. So-and-so's pew. "Yes, " they replied, "we are aware of that; but publicfeeling is against it, and it cannot be allowed. " The stranger turnedround, burst into tears, and walked home. 

Mr. Johnson, of the _Tribune_, told me that two or three years ago heand thirty or forty more were returning from an Anti-slavery Conventionheld at Harrisburgh in Pennsylvania. They had left by railway forPhiladelphia at 3 o'clock in the morning. At a town called Lancasterthey stopped to breakfast. In the company were two coloured gentlemen, one of whom was a minister. They all sat down together. Soon thewaiters began to whisper, "A nigger at table!" "There is two!" Thelandlord quickly appeared, seized one of the coloured gentlemen by theshoulder, and asked him how he dared to sit down at table in his house. The company remonstrated, and assured him that those whose presenceappeared to be so offensive were very respectable men, friends oftheirs, whom they had invited to sit down. It was all in vain. Thelandlord would hear nothing; "the niggers must go. " "Very well, " saidthe rest of the company; "then we shall all go. " Away they went, andleft the refined landlord to console himself for the loss of a largeparty to breakfast. They had to travel all the way to Philadelphiabefore they could break their fast. 

The same gentleman told me that he believed if a white man of anystanding in society in New York were now to marry a coloured lady, however intelligent and accomplished, his life would be in danger, --hewould be lynched for having committed such an outrage upon "publicopinion. " And yet the boast is ever ringing in our ears, "This is afree country--every one does as he pleases here!"

On the 24th of March I called upon Dr. Spring. He is an Old SchoolPresbyterian, and a supporter of the Colonization Society. In thecourse of conversation reference was made to State Churches. 

_Myself. _--"You see, Doctor, State Churches are the curse of theBritish Empire, just as slavery is the curse of your country. "

_The Doctor. _--"Ah! so it is; and yet we can do nothing to remove them. Here is our slavery, --we can't touch it; and you cannot touch yourEstablished Church. Do you think you will ever get rid of it?"

_Myself. _--"Oh! Yes; I hope so. "

_The Doctor. _--"But it will be a _very_ long time before it comes topass. "

_Myself. _--"Perhaps not so very long. We are rapidly hastening towardssome great change. The old principle of an Establishment is now beingabandoned by all parties; and we shall soon come either to the pay-allor to the pay-none principle. I am much afraid it will be the former. "

_The Doctor. _--"But were it to come to that, and the State would payyou as well as all the rest, you would have no further ground ofcomplaint. "

_Myself. _--"Oh! but we should: we dread that above all other evils. Itwill be a dark day for evangelical religion in England, if ever thatprinciple be adopted. "

_The Doctor. _--"Why? What harm can it do you to receive the money ofthe State, provided it does not infringe upon your liberties?"

_Myself. _--"In the first place, it would be a departure from the law ofJesus Christ, and every departure from his law is sure to be productiveof evil. "

_The Doctor. _--"Very true. That's a sound principle--that everydeparture from his law will be productive of evil; but then, it remainsto be proved that it _is_ a departure from his law. However, I am gladto see you stick so firmly to your principles. "

He then went on to ask if I would preach for him next Sabbath. Now, whether he was only trying me on those points, or whether he had notstudied the subject, or whether he was anxious to keep me off from thesubject of slavery, I cannot tell. But I came away with my knowledge ofDr. Spring less than it was when I entered. He seemed like a cold, stiff, formal State parson. 

In the evening I attended a missionary meeting in Dr. Adams's Church. It was the anniversary of the New York and Brooklyn Auxiliary to theBoard of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and embraced about thirtychurches. I expected great things. When I entered they were singing. The place was little more than half-full, --say 500 persons. Threegentlemen were sitting in the pulpit. These were Dr. Adams, Dr. Cox, and Mr. Storrers. I looked around for the negro pew. There it was onthe left of the organ, and five sable friends in it. The first speakerwas Dr. Adams, who delivered a well-prepared oration of half an hourlong. The Rev. Mr. Storrers, a young man, the pastor of the "Church ofthe Pilgrims" in Brooklyn, was the next speaker. His preparation anddelivery were of the same character as those of Dr. Adams. But hepossesses great mental power. He occupied exactly half an hour. Bothspeakers complained bitterly of diminished confidence andcontributions. I forget the exact amount announced as the contributionof this auxiliary; but it was small. Dr. Cox, of Brooklyn, was thethird speaker. He told us that the last meeting he had attended inEngland, a few months before, was the missionary meeting in Birmingham. It was held in the town-hall, a magnificent building, and well filled. He pronounced an eloquent eulogy on John Angell James. He described themissionary breakfast in Birmingham; but, in mentioning such a thing asa "missionary breakfast, " he felt it necessary to make some apology. Heassured them it was not attended with the evils they might be apt toimagine would be inseparably connected with it. The fact is thatmissionary breakfasts are altogether unknown in America. Dr. Cox statedthat he had often been asked in England how they managed missionarymeetings in America, that the people of England held them in highestimation, that in England they depended chiefly for the support ofthe missionary cause upon legacies, stock, &c. , while they in Americawere content to say, "Give us day by day our daily bread. " He alsomentioned Dr. Chalmers's eulogy upon them. While in England, he (Dr. Cox) and another had waited upon Sir Stratford Canning, to commendtheir mission at Constantinople to his kind notice, and Sir Stratfordhad spoken in very high terms of the American people. Thus, even at themissionary meeting, incense must be offered to national vanity. 

LETTER XXVIII. 

A Visit to Mount Vernon--Dr. Robinson--Welsh Deputation--Queen Anne andNew York--The Sabbath--Preaching at Dr. L's--Afternoon Service at Mr. C----'s--Tea at Dr. L----'s--Evening Service at Mr. ----'s. 

The next day my wife and I paid our promised visit to the institutionof the Abbotts at Mount Vernon. In its government there are neitherrewards nor punishments; but each pupil, at the close of the day, hasto present a brief report of her own conduct. Her good deeds and herbad deeds must be alike proclaimed--proclaimed by herself, --and that inthe presence of her fellow-pupils who were witnesses of the conduct towhich she refers. This compels her to be faithful. If she tries toconceal what was faulty, she is surrounded by those who will detectthat concealment: if she ostentatiously parades her own excellences, she knows she will sink in the estimation of her friends. Theencouragement of self-respect, and of a regard for that which is goodfor its _own_ sake, are the great principles of government in thisestablishment. 

Mr. Abbott's plan of teaching a language is, not at first to weary thepupils with the dry rules of grammar, but to store their memories withwords. He read a word or a short sentence in French, for instance, andasked the pupils to translate it into English. Then, with closed books, he would give them the English in like manner to be turned into French. I have since adopted the plan with Latin pupils with pleasure andsuccess. 

Mr. Abbott allows a recess of five minutes at the close of everyhalf-hour. The hours of attendance are from 9 A. M. To 2 P. M. ; but arest of half an hour is allowed in the midst of that period. Wehappened to be there when the said half-hour arrived. All the Abbotts, the pupils, and ourselves went out to the playground, which wasfurnished with seats, and swings, and skipping-ropes, andswinging-boats, and all sorts of machines for exercise and amusement. In these gymnastic performances the Abbotts themselves joined thepupils, with a beautiful combination of freedom and propriety. Ahappier assemblage I never saw. We retired highly delighted with all wehad witnessed. 

In the afternoon I had the honour of being introduced to Dr. Robinson, whose Greek Lexicon I had often thumbed with advantage. He appeared tobe from 45 to 50 years of age. His manners were exceedingly simple andunostentatious, --the constant characteristics of true greatness. Ilooked upon him with high respect and veneration. He is a man of whomAmerica may well be proud. He pressed me to go and address the studentsat Union College, of which he is one of the Professors; but anopportunity of doing so did not occur. 

In the evening I was waited upon by two gentlemen who announcedthemselves as the "President and Secretary" of a Welsh TemperanceSociety, and wished me to attend and address one of their meetings at agiven time. This I could not do. In conversation with them aboutslavery, and the oppression of the coloured people, I was surprised andgrieved to find how soon the Welsh people imbibed the feelings and apedthe conduct of the Americans in those matters. On their pressing me toattend a meeting of their society on some _future_ occasion, I toldthem I was one of the most downright Abolitionists that ever lived, and, if I came, would terrify them all with such an abolition speech asthey had never heard. This, of course, was cold water upon their love, and our interview soon terminated. 

The weather for the next two days was so unfavourable that we could notgo out at all. Among the information I then derived from books were thefollowing precious morsels from the Introduction to the Natural Historyof New York: "The Governor was directed by Queen Anne to take especialcare that the Almighty should be devoutly and duly served according tothe rites of the Church of England, " and was at the _same time_ desiredby the Queen "to take especial care that the colony should have aconstant and sufficient supply of merchantable negroes at moderaterates. " Just what our own West India planters _now_ want! Oh! how theywould hail the return of the palmy days of Queen Anne!

On Sabbath the 28th of March I was invited to preach in the morning inthe church of Dr. L----, a Congregational place of worship, capable ofaccommodating about 500 persons. The attendance was not more than 200. There I was delighted to find no negro pew. A few coloured childrenwere intermingled with the white ones in the gallery. The Doctor, towhom I had not been introduced, was already in the pulpit when Iarrived. The ceremony of introduction to each other had to be dulyperformed in the rostrum. He is a fine, tall, clean, andvenerable-looking old gentleman. He began the service, and, beforesermon, announced that they would then "take up" the usual collection. That place of worship is what they call a "Free Church, "--_i. E. _ thereis no pew-letting; as a substitute for which, they "take up" a weeklycollection. The Doctor also made the following announcement: "AMissionary of the London Missionary Society, from Guiana, one of theSouth American possessions of Britain, --his name is Mr. Davies, --willnow preach; and in the evening Professor Kellog from----, a _long_friend of mine, will preach. " At the close I was introduced to theDoctor's _long_ friend, Professor Kellog; and sure enough he was a"long" one! There was present also Professor Whipple, of the OberlinInstitute, to whom I had before been introduced. 

In the afternoon I preached for a Mr. C----, in a Presbyterian Church. The place was beautiful, commodious, and nearly full. The pastorintroduced the service. In his manner of doing so, I was very muchstruck with--what I had before often observed in our Transatlanticbrethren--a great apparent want of reverence and fervour. The singingwas very good--in the choir. In my address, I urged them to give theirlegislators, and their brethren in the South, no rest till the guiltand disgrace of slavery were removed from their national character andinstitutions. I also besought them, as men of intelligence and piety, to frown upon the ridiculous and contemptible prejudice against colourwherever it might appear. To all which they listened with apparentkindness and interest. 

We took tea by invitation with Dr. L----, for whom I had preached inthe morning. There we met with his nice wife, nice deacon, nice littledaughters, and nice nieces, --but a most intolerable nephew. This manprofessed to be greatly opposed to slavery, and yet was full ofcontempt for "niggers. " He talked and _laughed_ over divisions incertain churches, and told the company how he used occasionally to goon Sunday nights to hear a celebrated minister, just "for the sake ofhearing him _talk_--ha--ha--ha!" And yet this was a professor ofreligion!

On the subject of slavery the following conversation took place:--

_Nephew. _--"If I were in a Slave State, I would not hold slaves. "

_Aunt. _--"Ah! but you would. "

_Nephew. _--"No! that I would not. "

_Aunt. _--"You could not live there without. "

_Dr. L. _----(gravely). --"Well, I _guess_ we had better pray, 'Lead usnot into temptation. '"

_Aunt. _ (devoutly)--"I _guess_ we had. "

By-and-by one of the young ladies said to my wife, "I guess we hadbetter go and fix our things, and get ready for church. " This was thesignal for the breaking up of our social enjoyment, which would havebeen one of unmingled pleasure, had it not been for this noisy, conceited, talkative nephew. 

In the evening I had to preach again for Mr. ----, the place where thecoloured gentleman was refused admission to the body of the church. Thebuilding was very fine, and the congregation very large. ProfessorFowler, of Amherst College, who happened to be present, read theScriptures and prayed. My subject was "the woes and wants of theAfrican race. " I touched upon American slavery, and gave details of thehorrors of the slave traffic as at present carried on. I also boretestimony against the cruel prejudice which so extensively existsagainst the African colour. All were attentive, except one man, whorose and walked out; and I fancied him saying to himself, "I am notgoing to sit here to listen to this abolition nonsense any longer. " Andso ended my Sabbath in New York. 

LETTER XXIX. 

The Rev. Theodore Sedgwick Wright--His Testimony against Caste--HisFuneral--Drs. Cox and Patton--The Service in the House--TheProcession--The Church--The Funeral Oration--Mrs. Wright. 

During my stay at this time in New York, there died in that city theRev. Theodore Sedgwick Wright, a Presbyterian minister of colour. Hisattainments and talents were very respectable; and for fifteen years hehad been the successful pastor of a church of coloured people in thecity. 

Before you accompany me to his funeral, listen to his voice. Though"dead, he yet speaketh. " He had felt this cruel prejudice against thecolour of his skin as iron entering his soul. Here is his touchingtestimony on the subject, delivered in a speech at Boston eleven yearsbefore his death:--

"No man can really understand this prejudice, unless he feels itcrushing him to the dust, because it is a matter of feeling. It hasbolts, scourges, and bars, wherever the coloured man goes. It has boltsin all the schools and colleges. The coloured parent, with the samesoul as a white parent, sends his child to the seats of learning; andhe finds the door bolted, and he sits down to weep beside his boy. Prejudice stands at the door, and bars him out. Does the child of thecoloured man show a talent for mechanics, the heart of the parent beatswith hope. He sees the children of the white man engaged in employment;and he trusts that there is a door open to his boy, to get an honestliving, and become a useful member of society. But, when he comes tothe workshop with his child, he finds a bolt there. But, even supposethat he can get this first bolt removed, he finds other bars. He can'twork. Let him be ever so skilled in mechanics, up starts prejudice, andsays, 'I won't work in the shop if you do. ' Here he is scourged byprejudice, and has to go back, and sink down to some of the employmentswhich white men leave for the most degraded. He hears of the death of achild from home, and he goes in a stage or a steam-boat. His money isreceived, but he is scourged there by prejudice. If he is sick, he canhave no bed, he is driven on deck: money will not buy for him thecomforts it gets for all who have not his complexion. He turns to somefriend among the white men. Perhaps that white man had sat at his tableat home, but he does not resist prejudice here. He says, 'Submit. 'Tisan ordinance of God, --you must be humble. ' Sir, I have felt this. As aminister, I have been called to pass often up and down the North Riverin steam-boats. Many a night I have walked the deck, and not beenallowed to lie down in a bed. Prejudice would even turn money to drosswhen it was offered for these comforts by a coloured man. Thusprejudice scourges us from the table; it scourges us from the cabin, from the stage-coach, from the bed. Wherever we go, it has for usbolts, bars, and rods. "

And now let us attend the speaker's funeral. Professor Whipple will beour guide. As we proceed, crowds of coloured people are hastening inthe same direction from all quarters. We are at the house. But so greatis the throng that it is impossible to get in. Here, however, comes Dr. Cox. "Make room for Dr. Cox!"--"Make room for Dr. Cox!" is now heard onevery hand. A path is opened for the great man, and we little men slipin at his skirt. On reaching the room where the remains of the good manlie, we find Dr. Patton and the Rev. Mr. Hatfield. They and Dr. Cox arethere in a semi-official capacity, as representing the Presbytery withwhich Mr. Wright was connected. Louis Tappan, the long-tried andfaithful friend of the coloured race, is there also. I am asked to be apall-bearer: without at all reflecting on the duties and inconveniencesof the office, I good-naturedly consent. A _white_ cotton scarf isinstantly thrown over my shoulder. There is the coffin; and there is alifelike portrait of Mr. Wright hung up against the wall, and lookingas it were down upon that coffin. But you can see the face of Mr. Wright himself. The coffin-lid is screwed down; but there is a squareof glass, like a little window, just over the face, as is generally thecase in America, and you can have a view of the whole countenance. 

A black man reads a hymn, and, in connection with it, begins an addressin a very oracular style, and with very solemn pauses. A hint is givenhim not to proceed. They sing. Mr. Hatfield delivers an appropriateaddress. A coloured minister prays, sometimes using the first personsingular, and sometimes the first person plural; also talking about the"meanderings of life, " and a great deal of other nonsense. 

We move down stairs. The immense procession starts. Drs. Cox andPatton, Mr. Hatfield, and about half-a-dozen more white ministers, arein it. As we pass on from street to street, and from crossing tocrossing, all sorts of people seem to regard the procession with theutmost respect. The cabmen, 'busmen, and cartmen behave exceedinglywell. But did you overhear what those three or four low dirty men saidas we approached? I am ashamed to tell, because those men are notAmericans, but _Irishmen_, --"Here comes the dead nigger!" The boys, nowand then, are also overheard counting how many _white_ men there are inthe procession. 

We are now at the church. After much delay and difficulty we enter. Theplace, which is not large, is crammed. There must be about 600 peoplein. Dr. Cox urges them to make room for more, and says there are notmore than one-tenth in of those who wish to enter. If so, there must bea concourse of 6, 000 people, and not more than twenty whites among themall!

A coloured man gives out a hymn. Dr. Cox reads the Scriptures, andmakes a few remarks. Dr. Patton delivers an oration. In that oration, while speaking of Mr. Wright's anti-slavery feelings as being verystrong, he adds, with very questionable taste, "But at the same timeour brother had no sympathy with those who indulged in _denunciation, wrath, and blackguardism_. He would never touch the missiles which_none but scoundrels use_. " What a selection of words in a funeraloration! In speaking of Mr. Wright's labours in connection with thatchurch for fifteen years, he says, "Our brother had difficulties whichother men have not. Two or three years ago he had to trudge about thecity, under the _full muzzle_ of a July or August sun, to beg money inorder to extricate this place from pecuniary difficulties. On oneoccasion, after walking all the way to the upper part of the city tocall upon a gentleman from whom he hoped to receive a donation, hefound that he had just left his residence for his office in the city. Our brother, though greatly exhausted, was compelled to walk the samedistance down again; for--to the shame, the everlasting shame of ourcity be it spoken--our brother, on account of his colour, could notavail himself of one of the public conveyances. The next week diseaselaid hold of him, and he never recovered. "

What a strong and unexpected testimony against that cruel prejudice!According to this testimony, Theodore Sedgwick Wright fell a _victim_to it. But who would have thought that Dr. Patton, who thus denouncedthe cabmen and 'busmen of New York, had at the very time the "NegroPew" in his own church!

While on this subject, let me tell you another fact respecting poor Mr. Wright. The life of his first wife was sacrificed to this heartless andunmanly feeling. He was travelling with her by steam-boat between NewYork and Boston. They had to be out all night, and a bitter coldwinter's night it was. Being coloured people, their only accommodationwas the "hurricane-deck. " Mrs. Wright was delicate. Her husband offeredto pay any money, if they would only let her be in the kitchen or thepantry. No, --she was a "nigger, " and could not be admitted. Mr. Wrightwrapped her in his own cloak, and placed her against the chimney to tryto obtain for her a little warmth. But she took a severe cold, and soondied. _His_ colour, it would seem, hastened his own exit to rejoin herin that world where such absurd and inhuman distinctions are unknown. 

Dr. Patton's oration is now ended. But--did you ever hear such a thingat a funeral?--that minister in the table pew is actually giving out--

 "Praise God, from whom all blessings flow!"

and they sing it to a funeral tune!

We start for the place of burial. But it is a long way off, and I hadbetter spare you the journey. The great men fell off one after another;but my pall-bearing office compelled me to remain to the last. It was 4o'clock P. M. Before the solemnities were closed. 

LETTER XXX. 

Trip to New Haven--Captain Stone and his Tender Feeling--Arrival in NewHaven--A Call from Dr. Bacon and the Rev. Mr. Dutton--Newspapers--TheCentre Church and Standing Order--The North Church and JonathanEdwards, junior. 

Now for an excursion to New Haven. We leave by the steamer "Traveller, "Captain Stone, at 61/2 A. M. Wrap yourself up well; it is piercing cold, being the 30th of March. This boat is altogether different from theboats on the Mississippi. It seems to belong to quite another species. It is, however, admirably adapted for its purpose, --that of runningalong a stormy coast. In the gentlemen's cabin are three tiers ofberths, one above another like so many book-shelves. The engine worksoutside, like a top-sawyer. We shall pass "Hell Gate" directly; butdon't be alarmed. You would not have known it, had I not told you. TheHog's Back, the Frying Pan, and other places of Knickerbockercelebrity, are in this neighbourhood. 

Let us go to the ladies' saloon. Well! I declare! There is a colouredwoman, and allowed to remain unmolested! Things improve as we approachNew England, and are much better even there than they were a few yearsago. 

But here comes the captain muffled up. He brings with him a poorsickly-looking woman, begs the ladies' pardon, and bids her sit down bythe stove and warm herself. He then tells the passengers her painfulstory. The night before, in New York, this woman came on board, fromone of the Philadelphia boats, bringing with her a bed and a child. Onbeing spoken to by the captain, she informed him that she was on herway from St. Louis to her home in Massachusetts, --that she had beenfifteen days upon the journey, and had two children with her. On beingasked where the other was, she replied, "There it is, " pointing to thebed, where, clad in its usual dress, the little sufferer, released fromthe trials of life, lay extended in death. It had caught cold, and diedin her arms in New York. She was friendless and penniless, and wanted apassage to New Haven. The captain had obtained a coroner's inquest overthe body, purchased for it a little coffin, had it decently laid out, and gratified her maternal feelings by allowing her to bring it withher, that it might be buried in her village-home in Massachusetts. Allthis he had done without money and without price, had also given her afree passage to New Haven, and was about to forward her home by railwayat his own expense! Captain _Stone_--"what's in a name?"--at the closeof this statement had to take out his pocket-handkerchief, and wipeaway a few manly tears from his weather-beaten cheeks, as he added, "Ihave met in my life with many cases of distress, but with none thatcame so much to my heart as this. " His object, in introducing the womanand her case, was to make an appeal to the passengers on her behalf. Hedid so; and the result was a subscription amounting to about fivepounds sterling, which was handed over to her. Captain Stone's was adeed worthy of a golden inscription!

It is half-past 11 A. M. , and we are now at the landing-place in theharbour of New Haven, having accomplished the distance from New York, about 80 miles, in five hours! We have a long wharf of 3, 943 feet totravel; and then we set foot for the first time on the soil of NewEngland. We have been invited to make our abode here with the Rev. Leicester Sawyer, who makes his abode at Deacon Wilcoxon's, corner ofSherman-avenue and Park-street. Thither, therefore, let us go. Mr. Sawyer, whom we had before met in New York, is the author of severalbooks, comprising two on Mental and Moral Philosophy, and was alsolately the President of the Central College of Ohio. Deacon Wilcoxonand his wife are plain, homely, kind Christian people. They make youfeel at home as soon as you have crossed their threshold. 

Soon after our arrival the Rev. Dr. Bacon and the Rev. Mr. Dutton, thepastors of the "first" and "second" Congregational Churches in thiscity, honour us with a call. This is brotherly, and more than we couldhave expected. Dr. Bacon regrets that he is going from home, and cannothave us to spend a few days at his house. Mr. Dutton, however, pressesus to accept of his hospitality. We promise to do so in a day or two. Dr. Bacon is one of the great men of New England. He is a livingencyclopaedia, --a walking library. He keeps fully up with theliterature and sciences of the day. I have not met a man, either in theOld World or in the New, that so thoroughly understood the state of theBritish West Indies at the present time as he does. He might have spentyears in that part of the world, and devoted himself to its exclusivestudy. His position at home is high, and his influence great. Theestimation in which he is held in New England may be judged of by thefact, that when, in August 1846, Dr. Theodore Dwight Woolsey had to beinstalled as President of Yale College, Dr. Bacon, living within astone's throw of that institution, was the man chosen to preach theinauguration sermon. 

In the middle of the afternoon, my friend Mr. Sawyer presses me topreach in his place of worship--the Howe-street Church--this evening. Iconsent. By-and-by I observe him very busy with some slips of paper;and I ask him what he is doing? "I am sending, " he says, "notices tothe evening papers, to make it known that you are going to preach thisevening!" What a people the Americans are for newspapers! New Haven hasonly a population of about 18, 000; and yet it has six daily papers--allhaving a weekly issue besides, two monthly periodicals, and twoquarterly ones! The daily papers are, I believe, none of them more than5 dollars (a guinea) a year, or 2 cents (one penny) per number. Nopaper duty, and no stamp. At the service in the evening severalministers and students were present. 

The next day snow to the depth of six inches cover the ground. Let_us_, however, turn out in the afternoon. We will go and see thecentral square, --or the Green, as it is commonly called. This is alarge open space like a park, surrounded on all sides with rows ofstately elms, and is considered one of the most beautiful spots in theUnited States. And now we are in a position to take a full view. Threechurches, arranged side by side on this open space, at a few rods fromeach other, stand before us. The central one has the most imposingaspect. It is a large Grecian building; having a portico, supported byfour massive columns, from which rises a lofty bell-tower, ending in aspire. The combination of the belfry or spire with the Grecian style isa violation of propriety; but _I like it_. This is the "first"Congregational Church--that in which Dr. Bacon ministers. Thatchurch--not the building--is coeval with the colony, and can trace backits history for more than 200 years. It was formerly a State Church. Congregationalism was for ages the "standing order, " or the establishedreligion, in Connecticut! All the people were taxed for its support;and no man could have any share in the administration of the civilgovernment, or give his vote in any election, unless he was a member ofone of the churches. It was not till forty years after the separationof Church and State in Virginia, where the establishment was Episcopal, that the example was followed in Connecticut. Happily, however, in 1816all parties that differed from it--Episcopalians, Baptists, Methodists, Universalists, &c. , combined together, gained a majority in thelegislature, and severed the connection between Congregationalism andthe State! There are old men now living who then anxiously and piously"trembled for the Ark of the Lord. " They have, however, lived to seethat the dissolution of the union between Church and State inConnecticut, as in Virginia, was to the favoured sect as "life from thedead. " The Congregationalist of the one, and the Episcopalian of theother, would alike deprecate being placed in the same position again. But this is a digression. 

We are still looking at these churches. The church on our right, whichis about the same size and of the same architectural character as theother, though not quite so showy, is the "second" CongregationalChurch, commonly called the North Church--that in which Mr. Button nowministers. This church originated in the "great awakening" in 1740, wasformed in 1742, and has a history of more than a century in duration. It arose from dissatisfaction with the ministry of a Mr. Noyes, acontemporary of Jonathan Edwards, but one who had no sympathy inEdwards's views and spirit. This man was, indeed, greatly opposed tothe "awakening, " and refused George Whitfield admission to his pulpit. The originators of this second church, therefore, separated from theoriginal parent, availed themselves of the Act of Toleration, andbecame Congregational Dissenters from a Congregational Establishment!They had of course no State support, nor were they "free from taxationby the society from which they dissented. " "The foundations of thischurch, my brethren, " said its present gifted pastor, in a sermonpreached at the centenary of its formation, "are love of evangelicaldoctrine, of ecclesiastical liberty, of revivals of religion. Such everbe its superstructure. "

Here, for a quarter of a century, lived and laboured Jonathan Edwardsthe younger. Perhaps you have never before heard of him; neither had Itill I came to New Haven. If you won't think it too long to be detainedhere standing in front of the church, I will tell you a few factsrespecting him. He was the second son and ninth child of the celebratedJonathan Edwards of Northampton. His mother, too, was an extraordinarywoman. You will smile at the impression she made on the mind of goodold George Whitfield. He had spent two days at Mr. Edwards's house inNorthampton; and he says, "I felt wonderful satisfaction in being atthe house of Mr. Edwards. He is a son himself, and hath a daughter ofAbraham for his wife. A sweeter couple I have not yet seen. She is awoman adorned with a meek and quiet spirit, and talked so feelingly andsolidly of the things of God, and seemed to be such a helpmeet to herhusband, that she caused me to renew those prayers which for somemonths I have put up to God, that he would send me a daughter ofAbraham to be my wife. I find, upon many accounts, it is my duty tomarry. Lord, I desire to have no choice of my own. Thou knowest mycircumstances. "

In quoting this, an American writer adds, "He had not yet learned, ifhe ever did, that God is not pleased to make such 'sweet couples' outof persons who have no choice of their own. "

Mr. Edwards, junior, or rather Dr. Edwards, was (like his father) agreat scholar and a profound divine. He was frequently invited toassist at the examinations in Yale College. On those occasions he usedfrequently to display his strictness and accuracy by calling out, "_Haud recté_" (not right). This procured him the _sobriquet_ of "OldHaud Recté, " by which he was afterwards known among the students. Sometime after his resignation of the pastorate of this church he becamethe President of Union College. His works have recently been publishedin two large octavo volumes. There is a striking parallel between thefather and the son. They were alike in the character of their minds andin their intellectual developments. The name, education, and earlyemployments of the two were alike. Both were pious in their youth; bothwere distinguished scholars; both were tutors for equal periods in thecolleges where they were respectively educated; both were settled inthe ministry as successors to their maternal grandfathers; both weredismissed, and again settled in retired places, where they had leisureto prepare and publish their works; both were removed from thosestations to become presidents of colleges; both died shortly aftertheir respective inaugurations, the one in the 56th and the other inthe 57th year of their age; and each of them preached on the firstSabbath of the year of his death from the same text--"This year thoushalt die!"

But we must not dwell too long on these historical incidents. I havetold you something about the Centre Church and the North Church. ThatGothic building on our left is an episcopal church. That white buildingimmediately in the rear of the Centre Church is the State House, completed in 1831. It is constructed of stone and marble, and forms aprominent ornament of the city. It presents one of the best copies of aGrecian temple I have seen in the States. In the rear of the NorthChurch, quite at the remote corner of the Green, stands a plainbarn-like Methodist chapel. And, behind the whole, peeping through theelm-trees, you see the long range of buildings which constitutes YaleCollege. Take it all in all, a view more interesting than that from thespot on which we now stand I have never beheld. 

LETTER XXXI. 

The Spot on which Whitfield preached--Judge Daggett--Governor Yale--Yale College--The Libraries--Elliot's Indian Bible--GeologicalMuseum--Dr. Goodrich--Education and Expenses at Yale College--TheGraves of the Regicides. 

Before I take you to "Yale, " let me show you the spot on the Green onwhich, in 1745, Whitfield, being refused admission to theCongregational church, preached in the open air, under a tree, to animmense congregation, --so great at that time was the dislike to afervid evangelical ministry. But more than a century has rolled away;and how changed is the scene!

But, observe you that feeble, tottering old gentleman coming along theavenue? It is the Hon. David Daggett, LL. D. , late Chief Justice of theSupreme Court of Connecticut. He is a member, and, I believe, a deaconof one of the Congregational churches in this city. Twelve or thirteenyears ago that very man, sitting on the judicial bench, condemned MissRandall to be punished for--teaching a coloured child to read!

Now for Yale. The Rev. Samuel W. S. Dutton, the minister of the NorthChurch, will accompany us. This institution was founded in the year1700. It derived its name from the Hon. Elihu Yale, a gentleman, I amproud to say, descended from an ancient and respectable family inWales. His father, Thomas Yale, Esq. , came over with the first settlersof New Haven. His son Elihu went to England at ten years of age, and tothe East Indies at thirty. In the latter country he resided abouttwenty years, was made Governor of Madras, acquired a large fortune, returned to England, was chosen Governor of the East India Company, anddied at Wrexham in Denbighshire in 1721. On several occasions he mademunificent donations to the new institution during the years of itsinfancy and weakness, on account of which the trustees by a solemn actnamed it "Yale College. "

The college buildings--which, like Rome, were not all erected in aday--consist of four plain spacious edifices, built of brick, each fourstories high, and presenting a front, including passage-ways, of about600 feet. That neat white house on your right, as you stand beforethese buildings, is the President's dwelling--the very house in whichresided Dr. Timothy Dwight. But you are not looking at it. Ah! I seeyour attention is attracted by that student sitting on the sill of theopen window of his study, having in his hand a book, and in his mouth apipe of clay; by which, with the aid of fire, he is reducing a certaintropical weed into its original chemical elements. Perhaps you thinkthat rather undignified; and so it is. I wish you had not seen it; butworse is done at Oxford and Cambridge. 

Behind this range of buildings is another, a more modern and moreimposing pile. This extends in front 151 feet, is built of redsandstone, is in the Gothic style, and contains the libraries of theinstitution. The central building, called the College Hall, containingthe College Library properly so called, measures in front 51 feet, andin depth from front to rear 95 feet, having at each corner a tower ofthe extreme height of 91 feet. The interior is one room, whosemeasurement is 83 feet by 41, resembling in form a Gothic chapel, withits nave and aisles. The nave is 51 feet high, and its breadth 17 feet. Between its clustered pillars on either side are alcoves, each 10 feetby 12, fitted up with shelves for books. The number of volumes it nowcontains is about 20, 000. The extreme wings and the connecting wings oneither side are very elegant, and fitted up for various librariesconnected with the institution, such as the Students' Library, theReading Room, the Calliopean Library, and the Livonian Library. TheStudents' Library contains 9, 000 volumes. This beautiful range ofbuildings probably contains not fewer than 40, 000 volumes; and ere longthe number will be doubled! Little did the ten ministers who, in 1700, met together to establish this seminary, each laying down his donationof books with these words, "I give these books for the founding of acollege in this colony, " and who found that their joint-contributionamounted to only _forty volumes_, --little did they think what thatsmall beginning would come to!

You are looking out for literary curiosities. Here is one--Elliot'sIndian Bible! You have heard of Elliot, "the Apostle of the NorthAmerican Indians. " Here is a translation of the entire sacred volumeinto one of the languages of those people. The New Testament waspublished in 1661, and the Old Testament in 1663. The book before us isa copy of the second edition of the New Testament in 1680, and of theOld Testament in 1685. But where are those Indians, or theirdescendants? They are extinct; and there is not now a man on the wholecontinent of America that speaks their language!

Time will not permit me to describe the Picture Gallery, the AnatomicalMuseum, the Cabinet of the Materia Medica, the Museum of NaturalHistory, and many other objects of interest. You must, however, take apeep at the Mineral Cabinet, or Geological Museum. It has beencollected and arranged, with great industry and taste, by ProfessorSilliman. Look at this meteoric iron-stone. It fell a few years ago inTexas, and weighs 1, 635 lbs. !

Our guide, Mr. Dutton, insists upon our calling at the college-room ofDr. Goodrich, one of the Theological Professors. We do so; and find himengaged in revising Webster's Large Dictionary, about a dozen volumes, for a new edition. But what a polite man! Talk of American rudeness! Areception more kind and courteous than this you have never receivedfrom any man. 

Yale College is a noble institution. Oh that we had a few like it inEngland! The Faculty consists of 25 Professors--men who would be anhonour to any country, 7 "Tutors, " and 6 "Instructors. " At the time ofour visit there are 584 students thus classified:--

Theological Students 53Law " 62Medical " 52Resident Graduates 5

Undergraduates, -- Seniors 121 Juniors 90 Sophomores (wise fools) 112 Freshmen 99 ----- 422 ----- Total 584

Candidates for admission to the Freshmen Class are examined in Cicero'sSelect Orations, the whole of Virgil and Sallust, and the first threebooks of Xenophon's Anabasis, together with various "Readers, ""Exercises, " and Grammars. 

The whole course of instruction occupies four years, each year beingdivided into three terms or sessions. 

With regard to expense, the annual charges made by the Treasurer are--

 DOLLS. CENTS. For instruction 33 00For rent of chamber in college (average) 12 00For ordinary repairs and contingencies 2 40For general damages, sweeping, &c. 3 60For expenses of recitation-rooms 3 00 ----------- 54 00 = £11. 5_s. _

Board is obtained at prices varying from a dollar and a quarter to 3dollars a week. To a majority of the students, the cost of board isless than 2 dollars a week, or, reckoning the dollar at 4_s. _ 2_d. _, less than 8_s. _ 4_d. _ Fuel is procured by the College Corporation, andsold to the students at cost-price. The students provide for themselvesbed and bedding, furniture for their rooms, candles, books, stationery, and washing. In the several classes and literary societiessubscriptions to a small amount are required. If books and furnitureare sold when the student completes his course, the expense incurred bytheir use will not be great. The following is an approximate estimateof the _necessary_ expenses, without including apparel, pocket-money, travelling, and board during vacations:--

 DOLLARS. 

Treasurer's account as above 54 ... 54Board for forty weeks from 60 to 90Fuel and lights " 6 " 15Use of books recited, and stationery " 5 " 15Use of furniture, bed and bedding " 5 " 15Washing...... " 5 " 15Contributions in the classes ... " 5 " 6 ---------- 140 to 210

or from 29_l. _ to 43_l. _ No students are permitted to take lodgings intown, except when the rooms in college are all occupied. 

In addition to the regular college course of four years, those whostudy for the ministry go through a theological course, which occupiesthree years more. No charges are made for tuition or lectures. For theaccommodation of students of this order a building has been erected, inwhich the rooms are free of charge. The law department, in like manner, occupies two years, and the medical two or three. 

Let us now go and see the graves of the Regicides. They are at the rearof the Centre Church. Soon after the restoration of Charles II. , manyof the judges who had condemned to death his father were apprehended;of whom thirty were condemned, and ten executed as traitors. Three, however, made their escape to New England, --Generals Goffe and Whalley, and Colonel Dixwell. A cave is shown in the neighbourhood, still calledthe "Judges' Cave, " in which a great part of their time was spent inconcealment. Many were their hair-breadth 'scapes from theirpursuers--the Royalist party. The colonists, however, gave them all thesympathy and protection that they deserved. On one occasion, knowingthat the pursuers were coming to New Haven, the Rev. Mr. Davenportpreached on the text, "Hide the outcasts; betray not him thatwandereth. Let mine outcasts dwell with thee, Moab; be thou a covert tothem from the face of the spoiler. " This, doubtless, had its effect, putting the whole town on their guard, and uniting the people incaution and concealment. 

Do you see that rudely-shaped, dark blue stone, about 2 feet in width, the same in height, and 8 inches thick? Do you see the inscription uponit--E W in coarsely-carved letters, and the figures 1658 over them?That is, doubtless, the headstone of Whalley's grave. The footstone issimilar, having the same letters; but above them you see figures thatmay be read either sixteen hundred and fifty-eight, or sixteen hundredand seventy-eight--16578. The latter was the date of the General'sdeath; and the figures, perhaps, were thus tampered with to baffle theRoyalists. 

The other stone, about a foot broad and ten inches high, bearing theletters M. G. And the number 80, is supposed to indicate theresting-place of Goffe. He died about the year 1680. The M, with adeep-drawn stroke under its limbs, may be taken for an inverted W; andthus, with the G, stand for William Goffe, in harmony with the designedconcealment that pervades the whole. Colonel John Dixwell lived here, for seventeen years or more, under the assumed name of James Davids, and died here after an exile of twenty-nine years from his nativecountry. He, as well as the other two judges, lived and died in thefirm expectation of another revolution in England. That revolution hadactually taken place in the November before his death; but, as thosewere the days of slow and tedious voyages, the news did not arrive tillabout a month after his death. A little before his decease he revealedto the people his real name and character, which had long been known tothe Rev. Mr. Pierpont the minister, but requested that no monumentshould be erected at his grave, "lest his enemies might dishonour hisashes, " but only a plain stone inscribed with his initials J. D. , Esq. , his age, and time of death. And here it is--that piece of red stone, about 2 feet in height and breadth, and 5 inches thick, inscribed--

"I. D. ESQR

DECEASED MARCH ye

18th IN ye 82d YEAR OF

HIS AGE 1688^9. "

President Stiles, in his "History of the Judges, " says, "So late as thelast French war, 1760, some British officers passing through New Haven, and hearing of Dixwell's grave, visited it, and declared, withrancorous and malicious vengeance, that if the British ministry knewit, they would even then cause their bodies to be dug up and vilified. Often have we heard the crown officers aspersing and vilifying them;and some so late as 1775 visited and treated the graves with marks ofindignity too indecent to be detailed. "

By those who can make a due allowance for difference of time andcircumstances, the graves of these exiles will be visited withsentiments of veneration. It would have been grand to spare thepresumptuous monarch; but we cannot feel surprised that he wassacrificed to the indignation of an outraged people. In these days, happily, kings and nations have learned that to take away the life oftyrannical rulers, or of resisting subjects, is but to sow the seeds offuture troubles, and not to lay the foundation of permanent peace. 

LETTER XXXII. 

A Fast-Day--Political Sermons--A Church of Coloured People--TheSabbath--Morning Service--Afternoon ditto and Dr. Hawes--Prayers atCollege Chapel--United Service in North Church--The Cemetery--The"Fathers"--Professor Gibbs--Annual Election--Statistics--Arrival atHartford--Mr. Hosmer--Chief Justice--Deaf and Dumb--Charter Oak. 

Good Friday was observed by the people of New England as an annualfast-day, to humble themselves on account of their national sins. Itseemed, somewhat to our inconvenience, to be literally and very rigidlyobserved in the circle in which we moved. On that day all ministers areat liberty to preach upon politics. Accordingly, my friend Mr. Sawyertook for his text Isaiah lviii. 6: "Is not this the fast that I havechosen? to loose the bands of wickedness, to undo the heavy burdens, and to let the oppressed go free, and that ye break every yoke?" Hetouched upon the war with Mexico, but dwelt chiefly on the subject ofslavery in America. His remarks were, however, too much mingled withparty politics to make the church uncomfortable. 

In the afternoon I heard Mr. Dutton, in the North Church. His text wasNeh. Ii. 3, and his subject _Patriotism_. The existing war occupiedmuch of his attention, and was strongly and unsparingly denounced. Themaxim--too frequently heard at that time in the United States--"Ourcountry, right or wrong, " he shattered to atoms. Defensive war, however, he justified. He dwelt powerfully on the responsibilityconnected with the exercise of the elective franchise, and urged theduty of voting, at all times, not blindly and for party purposes, butintelligently, honestly, and piously. Exceptions might perhaps be takenby some to his views on defensive war; otherwise the discourse wasexcellent and seasonable. At the close of the service, we went, inaccordance with previous arrangements, to be his guests for a few days. 

In the evening I attended a Congregational church of coloured people. The place was exceedingly neat and clean. The minister, the Rev. Mr. Beman (himself a coloured man), gave out the well-known hymn--

"Come we that love the Lord, And let our joys be known, " &c. , which was sung beautifully. He then offered up a very judicious, sensible, and pious prayer. The meeting was one of a series of revivalmeetings. A large number professed to have been converted; but, suchwere the care and caution exercised, none of them had been admittedinto the fellowship of the church. Mr. Beman was so prudent, unassuming, and devout, that I could not resist the inclination to goup, introduce myself, and give a short address. Most cordial was myreception, and great my enjoyment. At the close, one and another wereintroduced to me as having made their escape from Southern slavery, under circumstances painfully affecting; and they would not let me gowithout a promise that I would preach to them on the following Sabbathmorning. 

I did so, and enjoyed the service very much. As in the evening therewas to be a service in the North Church, in which all the otherchurches were to unite, for the purpose of hearing from me a statementwith regard to the history and operations of the London MissionarySociety, together with some special reference to British Guiana, I saidto Mr. Beman, "Brother Beman, won't you and your people go to the NorthChurch to-night?" He hesitatingly said, "No, --he thought not. " "Whynot?" said I, --"you know my statements will in a great measure refer tothose who are your brethren--your kindred according to the flesh. ""Yes, " he replied, --"we should be glad to come; but the fact is theywould pack us--myself and all--into some negro pew, and we should feelit keenly. "

In the afternoon I preached for Mr. Dutton, in the North Church. Dr. Bacon had that day exchanged pulpits with Dr. Hawes of Hartford. Myservice closing a little sooner than his, I reached the Centre Churchin time to hear the latter part of his sermon. Dr. Hawes is a fine, tall man, of about 55 years of age. In personal appearance, and intones of voice, he struck me as greatly resembling some of the sons ofCaledonia. His sermon, which was read, seemed to be very good; but thedelivery, even in the application, was slow and heavy. Both churcheswere even more beautiful inside than out, and were filled with verylarge congregations. 

Shortly after, Mr. Dutton took me to attend the afternoon worship atthe College Chapel, where a church is formed, and public services areconducted every Sabbath. It was here that Dr. Dwight delivered hiswell-known Lectures. There are prayers morning and afternoon every day, which the students are expected to attend. Such was the presentengagement. One of the professors read a chapter; gave out a hymn, which was magnificently sung; and then offered an extempore prayer. There were between 300 and 400 students present. 

In the evening Dr. Hawes accompanied me into the pulpit, and took theintroductory part of the service. Most of the professors and studentswere present. It was a fine, though formidable, opportunity to pleadthe cause of the despised and oppressed sons of Afric before anaudience of so much learning and intelligence. What a contrast! In 1742the students were forbidden to attend the meetings of this church; andit was partly for once disobeying this prohibition, in order to hearthe Rev. Gilbert Tennent, that David Brainerd was expelled from thecollege. 

Nor were the sentiments I uttered new in this place. Nearly 60 yearshave rolled away since Jonathan Edwards the younger preached here asermon, afterwards published by _request_, on the injustice andimpolicy of the slave-trade and slavery, --a sermon which in these dayswould be called by many not merely abolitionism but incendiarism. 

On Monday morning we were taken to see the cemetery, outside of thecity. Formerly the Green was used as a burying-ground; but in thelatter part of last century this field of ten acres was levelled andinclosed for the purpose; and in 1821 the monuments, with the exceptionof the humble stones of the three judges, were removed hither. Thebroken tablets and half-legible inscriptions, which constituted thememorials of the fathers and founders of this colony, were peculiarlyinteresting. On the 18th of April, 1638, those men kept their firstSabbath here. The people assembled under a large spreading oak, and Mr. Davenport, their pastor, preached to them from Matt. Iv. 1: "Then wasJesus led up of the Spirit into the wilderness to be tempted of thedevil. " His subject was the temptations of the wilderness; and herecorded the remark, that he had enjoyed "a good day. " The followingyear they met in a large barn, and in a very solemn manner proceeded tolay the foundation of their civil and religious polity. Mr. Davenportintroduced the business with a sermon on "Wisdom hath builded herhouse; she hath hewn out her seven pillars. " The most ancient record ofthis event is a curiosity in the history of civil government. It thusbegins:--"The 4th day of the 6th moneth, called June, all the freeplanters assembled together in a general meetinge, to consult aboutsettling civil government according to God, and about the nomination ofpersons that may be found by consent of all fittest in all respects forthe foundation work of a church, which was to be gathered in Quinipiack[the Indian name of the place]. After sollemne invocation of the nameof God in prayer, " &c. , they resolved--Alas! for that resolve! itadmitted a wrong principle, and was productive, for more than 150years, of the most withering and blighting effect upon that religionwhich they aimed to foster--they resolved among other things, "Thatchurch members only shall be free burgesses; and that they only shallchuse magistrates and officers among themselves, to have the power oftransacting all publique civil affairs of this plantation, " &c. 

But why record their errors while standing over their tombs? _Demortuis nil nisi bonum_. Take them for all in all, they were men whomwe delight to honour. Here are some of their memorials, dated so farback as 1657. Here too is the resting-place of Dr. Dwight. 

As we return from this necropolis, the Rev. Mr. Sawyer points out to usthe house of Professor Gibbs. "Gibbs--Gibbs, " said I; "what! Gibbs'sGesenius?" "Yes, " said he. "I should like to see him, " I replied, "forI used at college his editions of Gesenius's Hebrew Lexicon. " "Let usthen call by all means, " said Mr. Sawyer. We did so; and a thin, spare, sallow, sickly, withered, little old gentleman made his appearance. This was the Professor. He seemed as if all the juice and sap of hisconstitution had been pressed out to nourish the Hebrew roots. Iexpressed my pleasure in seeing him, and acknowledged the advantages Ihad derived from his labours. The conversation soon touched upon theEstablished Church of England, of which he seemed to have a greathorror. "You ought to put down, " said he, "that Establishment. Youmight very easily do it. " "We should be very happy, sir, to know how, "I replied. "I will tell you. Make thorough Hebrew scholars of yourministers. Let them be with regard to Biblical learning quite on a parwith those of the Establishment, and it will soon fall. " I answered, that upon the whole I thought they were in that respect quite inadvance of those of the Establishment. But I was amused at the goodProfessor's simplicity. He little understood the mighty bulwarks bywhich that institution is defended. A little more of the article inwhich _he_ dealt would be just the thing to accomplish wonders! It washis nostrum. 

To-day the annual election of the State of Connecticut is held. All theofficers of state are to be chosen, and New Haven is one of theprincipal polling-places. But how quiet the town! The only thing thatindicates an election is the presence of a larger number of people thanusual; and the only display you can see is that little bit of a flag, about 18 inches square, stuck on the top of a cab, having on the word"Democracy!" Let us go into the State House, and see how it is done. Men leave their stores or their studies, --enter by one door, drop theirvote into a box, and quietly return to their avocations. The studentsat Yale who are 21 years of age do the same, and go back to theirexercises. The whole affair is managed with as much propriety as theelection of deacons in the church at New Amsterdam. _This_ is theworking of universal suffrage in New England. Oh that all America, andall the world, were in this respect like the land of the PilgrimFathers!

And now we must bid adieu to New Haven. Many are the warm hearts andclear heads it contains. The population is about 18, 000. There are init--

5 Congregational Churches, and 1 Coloured ditto. 2 Episcopal ditto . . 1 "2 Methodist Episcopal ditto 1 "2 Baptist ditto. 1 Primitive Methodist ditto. 1 Bethel ditto. 1 Catholic ditto. --____

13 + 4 = 17 total of places of worship. 

 DOLLARS. 

The Salary of the Governor of Connecticut is 1, 100 " Lieutenant " . . 300 " Rev. Dr. Bacon . . . 1, 500 " Rev. Mr. Dutton . . . 1, 500

In the middle of the day, we leave by railway for Hartford, 36 milesoff. Dr. Hawes is our fellow-traveller. Coloured people are hereallowed to travel in the same carriages with others. It was not so, even on this line, three or four years ago, when the Rev. Mr. Pennington was setting off from Hartford for England. He told mehimself that he was obliged on that occasion to travel in theluggage-van. On our arrival, we are met by Charles Hosmer, Esq. , (acousin of Elihu Burritt, ) an old and valued correspondent of mine, andof my predecessor Mr. Wray. To both of us he had occasionally sentpresents of excellent American publications. We must be his guestsduring the few days we remain at Hartford. Dr. Hawes and Chief JusticeWilliams, came in a homely way to spend the evening with us. The ChiefJustice is a deacon of the Doctor's church, and a teacher in theSabbath-school. 

The next day we were taken to see the Deaf and Dumb Institution. Thisasylum was founded by the Rev. Mr. Gallaudet, who, becoming deeplyinterested in this class of afflicted humanity, visited England and theContinent with a view to obtain information as to the best mode ofcommunicating instruction to them. I may also observe that he himselfmarried a deaf and dumb lady, by whom he has a large family ofchildren, now grown up, none of whom however inherit the maternalaffliction. His son also has married a lady who, like his mother, isdeaf and dumb. We were highly delighted with the success of theundertaking as seen in the comfort, cheerfulness, and proficiency ofthe pupils. In coming out, we met at the door a respectablewell-dressed man and a woman, both of them deaf and dumb, who hadformerly been pupils here, had formed an attachment to each other, married, settled comfortably in life, and were now coming to pay avisit to their former home. 

On our return we saw the celebrated Charter Oak. The early settlers ofthis place had obtained from the second Charles, and that in the veryyear in which 2, 000 ministers were ejected from the Church of England, a most favourable charter--far more so than the Colonial Office in thepresent day would grant. Charles, however, repented having granted it, and in 1687 sent over Sir Edmund Andross, under some pretence or other, to demand it back. It was night, and the Legislative Assembly wereconvened on the subject, when suddenly the lights were extinguished, and the charter was missing. For a long time it was not known, exceptto the initiated, what had become of it. When, however, the danger waspast, the Charter was forthcoming. It had been concealed in the hollowof this old oak, which still survives. I was gratified in seeing thedocument carefully preserved in the office of the Secretary of State. It is dated 1662, and "in the fourteenth year of our reign, " though inreality Charles had then reigned but two years. 

LETTER XXXIII. 

The "Retreat"--Introductions to the Insane--Piety and Profanity--Service in the Fourth Church--Memorials of the Pilgrims--Dr. Bushnell and his Opinions--The Mother Church and its Burying-Ground--The New Cemetery--Prejudice against Colour--Mrs. Sigourney--Departurefrom Hartford--Worcester and Elihu Burritt--Boston--The Rev. SethBliss--The Cradle of Liberty--Mr. Garrison--Bunker's Hill. 

Having seen the Charter Oak, let us proceed in company with the Rev. Mr. Gallaudet to the "Retreat for the Insane, " of which he is chaplain. The place is delightfully situated, and severity of treatment carefullyavoided. As we pass from room to room, we are very gravely and formallyintroduced, as strangers in the country, to the inmates. Here we areintroduced to a tall muscular old lady, who has her cap fantasticallytrimmed with bits of ribbon of various gaudy colours. With an air ofassumed politeness and dignity, she asks me if I have been toWashington. On receiving a reply in the negative, she expresses greatregret, and inquires if I have seen "Dan Webster, " and, without waitingfor an answer, hurries on, "Fine fellow Dan, --some solid timbers aboutDan, --indeed, the Yankees altogether are not to be sniffed at. " Inodded the most entire assent to all she said. 

We enter another room, and are introduced to a curious groupe. Onewoman has tied her mouth up with a handkerchief, to prevent her talkingtoo much. She tells us that at first she had tied it over her ears, toprevent her hearing another woman's voice, who is constantly talking toherself, and making her head ache; but that she found her own tonguethen going faster than anybody else's. She had therefore adopted the_wise_ plan of tying her own mouth. She is eloquent in the praises ofthe institution, and calls it "A blessed Retreat--a blessed Retreat. "

We move on, and are introduced to a fine-looking woman--the wife of arespectable merchant in New York. She looks wild, and shakes her headviolently. She pours upon us a flood of questions, most of which relateto her own husband, such as--When did we see him last?--How washe?--What message did he send to her? &c. Turning to my wife, she said, "You had better have staid at home, and never come to this country. This country _was_ once a great country: it is so no longer, and allthrough that man, "--pointing to Mr. Gallaudet. "Oh that man! what avillain he is! People out of doors don't know him; and, " looking atmyself, "you can't do this country better service than to make knowneverywhere the real character of that man. Here he keeps me a prisonerin this place for nothing at all; but I hope the State will take up thematter, and punish him well for it. " I promised to make known Mr. Gallaudet's character, and bade her adieu. 

We are next introduced to a student of theology, who asks very sensibleand pious questions in reference to the missionary cause and theprogress of the Gospel in British Guiana. This man is perfectly saneexcept on one point. He thinks there is a conspiracy to poison him, andthat slow poison is administered to him continually in his food. Mr. Gallaudet, even by dining at the same table and eating out of the samedish, has failed to convince him to the contrary. 

Now we are taken to the chapel in which Mr. Gallaudet officiates amongthem. On the desk is an elegantly-bound Bible, which has been presentedby a former patient, who had experienced in his restoration the valueof this "Retreat. " The hymn-book is a collection made on purpose forthe insane, everything gloomy and terrific being excluded. Mr. Gallaudet, a most intelligent and accomplished man, describes manyremarkable developments of human nature which have come under hisobservation, comprising strange combinations of piety and profanity inthe same persons. A patient, who was really a very religious man, inenumerating the many advantages they there enjoyed said, "We have agood house to live in; good rooms to occupy; good food to eat; a gooddoctor to attend us; a good chaplain to give us religious instruction;and" (waxing warm) "what the devil do we want more?"

In the afternoon we meet with Dr. Hawes, at the house of Chief JusticeWilliams to tea. 

In the evening there is a united service in the "Fourth Church"--thatof which Dr. Patton's son is minister, --to hear from me an address onthe subject of missions. After which Dr. Bushnell puts to me publiclysome very close and intelligent questions with regard to the working offreedom in our West India Colonies. He is evidently anxious to elicitfrom me that kind of information which would enable them to contradictthe statements of the pro-slavery party. Young Patton is also ananti-slavery man, and will not tolerate the distinction of colour inhis own church. 

The next day Mr. Gallaudet and Mr. Patton call and accompany us to theHistorical Room. There we see carefully kept an old chest that had comeover in the "May Flower, " and also the three-legged pot in which the"Pilgrims" had first boiled their food after landing on Plymouth Rock. These and many other memorials of the "Fathers" we are happy to findare very piously preserved. Then we go to a Gallery of Pictures. Theadmission fee is 25 cents, or one shilling; but from us, beingstrangers, they will accept of nothing! In the collection there wasmuch to admire; but I could not help regretting that the canvas wasmade to preserve the memory of so many conflicts between England andher Transatlantic sons. 

We dined at Dr. Bushnell's house. The Doctor is a very unassuming man, and a very original but somewhat eccentric thinker. He had latelypublished a sermon on Roads, a sermon on the Moral Uses of the Sea, asermon on Stormy Sabbaths, and a sermon on Unconscious Influence, --alltreated in a very striking manner. He had recently visited England andthe continent of Europe, and had also contributed an article to the_New Englander_, a quarterly review, on the Evangelical Alliance. Theviews of a keen thinker from another land on that and kindred topicsdeserve to be pondered. "The Church of God in England, " says theDoctor, "can never be settled upon any proper basis, whether of truthor of practical harmony, until the Established Church, as such, isseparated from the State. " His estimate of "a large class of EnglishChristians" is not very flattering. "They are good men, but notthinking men. Their piety gurgles in a warm flood through their heart, but it has not yet mounted to their head. * * * In the ordinary, _i. E. _in their preaching and piety, they show a style of goodishness fitlyrepresented by Henry's Commentary; in the extraordinary, they rise intosublimity by inflation and the swell of the occasion. " Towards slaveryand slaveholders he manifests a tenderness of feeling at which we aresurprised and pained. The proposed exclusion of slaveholders from theAlliance he characterizes as "absurd and fanatical, " speaking of thesubject as having been "so unhandsomely forced upon" the Americanbrethren in London. Again, "There is too much good sense among theChristians of this country (America) to think of constituting anAlliance on the basis which denies Christian character to allslaveholders. At a future time, when slavery has been discussed longenough, we shall do so. We cannot do it now, --least of all can we do itat the dictation of brethren beyond the sea, who do not understand thequestion, " &c. 

And yet in the same article the Doctor proposes that the Christians ofEngland and America should unite their efforts for the promotion ofreligious liberty in Italy, and says, "If we lift our testimony againstall church dungeons and tortures, and against all suppression ofargument by penalties, as cruel, absurd, anti-christian, and impious, there is no prince or priesthood in Italy or anywhere else that canlong venture to perpetrate such enormities. " Will they yield, Doctor, to the "dictation of brethren beyond the sea?" But this subject ofAmerican slavery is always represented by our Transatlantic friends asa thing so _profound_ that none but themselves can understand it; andyet it is evident that they understand it least of all. Hear theDoctor:--

"We do not propose, however, in this movement for religious liberty, toinvite the efforts of our English brethren here against slavery. Wehave too little confidence in their knowledge of our condition, and thecorrectness of their opinions generally on the subject of Americanslavery. They must consent to let us manage the question in our ownway, " &c. How strikingly is it here seen that this slavery is the weakpoint and the wicked point in the American character! We liked Dr. Bushnell's company, his hospitality, his wife, his children, hisdomestic discipline, his church, his other writings, --everything betterthan the article in question, though even it contained much that weadmired. 

The next day we went to see the "First Congregational Church" in thisplace--that in which Dr. Hawes ministers, together with the oldburying-ground attached to it. This was the original church formed bythe first settlers, who in 1636 came from Braintree in Essex, bringingtheir pastor the Rev. Thos. Hooker along with them. Of him it is said, that he appeared in the pulpit with such dignity and independence as if"while engaged in his Master's work he could put a king in his pocket. "Here is his tomb, dated 1647. Two eventful centuries have rolled away, during which this church has had only nine pastors; all of whom, exceptthe last, Dr. Hawes, who still survives, died in their charge, and wereinterred in this place. Interments here are no longer continued; but anold bachelor, of independent means, a descendant of the Pilgrims, spends nearly the whole of his time "among the tombs" of the fathersand prophets, and, _con amore_, keeps the ground and the graves in themost beautiful order. 

Our host Mr. Hosmer took us to see the new burying-ground outside ofthe city. Here the Catholics and the coloured people had each a parcelof ground allotted for themselves, --the former because they _would_not, and the latter because they _should_ not, mingle their dust withthat of other people!

On our way back I said to my friend, "How was it that neither Mr. Pennington nor any of his people (coloured congregation) were at themeeting last night? I should have thought they would have come to hearabout their own brethren in Guiana. " "Why, " he replied, "the fact was Idid not send a notice to them on Sunday: I knew that in the 'Fourth'Church they would have been scattered all over the place; it would havebeen so unpleasant, and talked of for months. " Here then was a man of alarge heart, a friend of missions and of all that is good, one whoseemed as if he could embrace the whole world in his sympathies, underthe dominion of a prejudice you would have expected him to scorn!

At Hartford lives Mrs. Sigourney, the graceful American poetess. She isa pious member of one of the Congregational Churches. Mr. Hosmer kindlytook us to call upon her; and we were greatly pleased with our briefvisit. 

At 2 P. M. We left with regret this delightful little city, and shallalways cherish a grateful remembrance of the Christian kindness andhospitality with which we were treated. In all the States we met withnothing to be compared, in all that was pleasing, to the two cities ofConnecticut--New Haven and Hartford. 

In passing, on our way to Boston, through Worcester in Massachusetts, Icast a hurried glance at every place that looked like a smithy, wondering whether it was there that Elihu Burritt had wielded hisforge-hammer and scattered his "sparks from the anvil. "

We reached Boston at 9 P. M. , and stopped at the United States Hotel. The next day I called to deliver notes of introduction to several ofthe Boston divines. Among them was one to the Rev. Seth Bliss, at theTract Depository. Having glanced at the note, he very hurriedly said tome, "Ah, how do you do?--very glad to see you!--where are you stoppingat?"--"At the United States Hotel, sir. " "Oh, " he replied all in abreath, "you had better come to my house, --it'll be cheaper foryou, --they'll charge you 2 dollars a day at the United States Hotel, --Ionly charge a dollar and a half, --I have a room at liberty now. Besides, if you want to get acquainted with ministers, you can't dobetter than come to my house. In fact, the wags call my house the'Saints' Rest, '--because, I suppose, they see I sell the book here. "The conjuncture of "Bliss" and "Saints' Rest!" Who could refuse? Wewent. But I will not tell how far the accommodation tended to realizeour conceptions of those beatitudes. 

On the morrow we went to see Faneuil Hall, the "Cradle of Liberty. " Anotice was up at the door to say the key was to be found at such astore in the neighbourhood. I asked for the key; had it without asingle question being put; went, opened the door myself, and staid aslong as we pleased. There was no hanger-on, to try to squeeze a fee outof us, as would have been the case in a country I know. 

I then went and called without any introduction upon William LloydGarrison, from whom I received the most kind attentions. He accompaniedme to the celebrated Bunker's Hill, a scene of dreadful encounterbetween those who ought never to have been foes. A column of 200 feethigh now stands upon the spot. It is unfortunate that the Americanshave so many mementos, both natural and artificial, of their struggleswith us. They tend to perpetuate an undesirable feeling. 

LETTER XXXIV. 

Boston (continued)--The Old South--Unitarianism, and Connection betweenChurch and State--A Welsh Service in an "Upper Room"--Laura Bridgmanand the Wedding Ring--Oliver Caswell--Departure from Boston--John Toddand his Family--His Congregationalism--Albany and the DelevanHouse--Journey to Utica--Remsen and the Welsh People--Dogs made tochurn, and Horses to saw Wood. 

On Sabbath morning the 11th of April I preached for the Rev. Mr. Blagden, in the Old South Church. This is a large old-fashioned squarebuilding, having two galleries, one above the other, on three of itssides. It is rich in historical recollections. Here Whitfield preached. Here patriotic meetings were held even before Faneuil Hall was built;and here the British troops were quartered at the time of theRevolutionary War. Here, too, the lamp of truth was kept feebly burningwhen all around had sunk into darkness and heresy. At the commencementof this century, the ministry in all the other Congregational Churchesin Boston had become Unitarian. In the Old South, however, there were afew people, eight in number, who formed a "Society for ReligiousImprovement. " They could not at first _pray_ together; they only readthe Scriptures and conversed on religious subjects. But they grew inwisdom, fervour, and zeal, and were eventually the means, not only ofreviving religion in the Old South, but also of giving an impulse inBoston which is felt to this day. Church after church on orthodoxprinciples has been instituted, till there are in Boston more than adozen large and vigorous churches of the Congregational order; and theOld South, the honoured "mother of churches, " has had her "youthrenewed like the eagles. "

But how came Congregationalism to be so deteriorated? It was owing toits having been made the State religion. All were at first taxed forits exclusive support. This was felt to be unjust and oppressive, andit brought the favoured system into bad repute. Then a modification ofthe law was adopted, and the citizens had their choice of systems, butwere taxed for the support of some system or other. This provision, likewise, began ere long to be felt as unjust towards those who did notwish to maintain _any_ system, or at least not by taxation. This law, moreover, gave a virtual support to Unitarianism. "This, " says the Rev. Mr. Button of New Haven, "has been more fully illustrated inMassachusetts than in Connecticut. The repeal of the law for thecompulsory support of religion in that commonwealth has proved a severeblow to Unitarianism. "

After the morning service at the Old South, we turned in to seePark-street Church, another Congregational place of worship, which forthe following reason I was curious to enter. A few years ago a colouredgentleman of respectability instructed a friend to purchase for him apew in that church. That no objection to the sale might arise from anyneglect of decorations, the new proprietor had it beautifully lined andcushioned. It was made to look as handsome as any other pew in thechurch; and, when it was finished, the gentleman and his family oneSabbath morning took possession. This gave rise to great anxiety andalarm. Niggers in the body of the church! What was to be done? In thecourse of the following week a meeting was held, and a deputationappointed to wait upon the gentleman, and to tell him that it wasagainst "public feeling" for him to occupy the pew in question. Thegentleman remonstrated, and pointed out the injustice, after he hadpurchased the pew, and incurred the expense of fitting it up, of notbeing allowed to enjoy it. To this the deputation replied that theywere sorry for any inconvenience or loss he might sustain, but publicfeeling _must_ be respected, and the pew _must_ be given up. Againstthis decision there was no appeal; and the gentleman was obliged to letthe pew be resold for such a price as the white aristocracy thought fitto give. On the principle that "prevention is better than cure, " theyhave, I am told, in Boston introduced into every new trust-deed aclause that will effectually guard against the recurrence of such acalamity. But so "smartly" has it been done that, were you to examinethose deeds, you would look in vain for a single syllable having theremotest apparent bearing on either black or coloured people, and youwould be ready to suspect that the whole was a mere invention of theAbolitionists. Indeed, Mrs. "Bliss, " at the "Saints' Rest, " assured mein the most positive manner that such was the case, and that the wholeof the story I have related had not the shadow of a foundation intruth. But she might as well have attempted to deny the existence ofBunker's Hill or Boston Bay. This was only a specimen of the manner inwhich the colour-hating party attempt to throw dust in the eyes ofstrangers, and deny the existence of the most palpable facts. But howruns the conservative clause which led to this digression? It isexpressed in words to this effect, --That no sale of any pew is valid iftwo-thirds or three-fourths (I forget which) of the congregation shouldobject to the purchaser! This was quite enough. Those against whom itwas directed need not be even mentioned. It was well known that withthis clause no coloured man could ever own a pew. Public feeling wouldpiously take hold of this key, and turn it against him. 

In the afternoon I heard the Rev. E. N. Kirk. The church was new andbeautiful, the congregation large, and the sermon good. 

In the evening I preached in Welsh to about 70 people, in a small"upper room. " It was my first attempt for many years to deliver a_sermon_ in that language. Nor should I have made it, but for thepeculiarity of the case. The parties were representatives of fourdifferent denominations in Wales, had formed themselves into a kind ofEvangelical Alliance, and had no stated minister, but gladly availedthemselves of the occasional services of any minister of evangelicalviews who might be passing through! Poor and few as they were, theyinsisted upon my receiving towards travelling expenses four dollars anda half. This was not done at the Old South, though the pastor told methey were "burdened with wealth;" nor was it done in any other instancein the _American_ churches. 

The next day the Rev. Mr. Blagden accompanied us to see theMassachusetts Asylum for the Blind. Here we were introduced to LauraBridgman, who since she was about two years of age has been deaf, dumb, and blind. Her senses of taste and smell are also impaired. She is 18years of age, and has been in the institution ten years. Every avenueof communication with the soul was closed--but one. The sense of touchremained; and by means of that they have contrived to reach the mind, to inform it, to instruct it, to refine and elevate it. We found herexactly corresponding to the beautiful description given of her by Dr. Howe, who is at the head of the institution. That description has sooften been published in England that I will not transcribe it. Herfigure is genteel, slender, and well-proportioned. She appears to belively, sensitive, and benevolent. The place where the bright blue eyesonce sparkled that are now quenched in darkness is covered with a pieceof green ribbon. Conversation with her is carried on by means of the"speaker's" rapid fingering on her right hand. It was in this mannerthat we were introduced. She shook hands with us very affectionately, --taking hold of both hands of Mrs. Davies, and feeling allabout her head, her dress, and her arms. In doing so she felt thewedding-ring, and wanted to know by means of her interpreter--hergoverness--why the English ladies wore a ring on that finger. (TheAmerican ladies do not observe the custom. ) On my wife telling her itwas to show they were married, she seemed very much amused andastonished. Here it was very interesting to observe the progress of athought from ourselves to the governess, and from her to that "little, white, whispering, loving, listening" hand that received andcommunicated all ideas, until the brightened countenance and the lovelysmile showed it had reached the soul. She felt a deep sympathy forIreland, and wished to know what the English were doing for thestarving inhabitants. We told her; and soon after we saw by the publicpapers that, subsequently to our visit, she had done some needle-work, which was sold, and the proceeds appropriated at her request topurchase a barrel of flour for that unhappy land. "How, " exclaims ElihuBurritt, "she plied at morning, noon, and night, those fingers!wonderful fingers! It seemed that the very finger of God had touchedthem with miraculous susceptibilities of fellowship with the spiritworld and that around her. She put them upon the face of His writtenword, and felt them thrilled to her heart with the pulsation of Hisgreat thoughts of love to man. And then she _felt_ for other's woe. Poor child! God bless her richly! She reached out her short arms tofeel after some more unhappy than she in the condition of this life;some whose fingers' ends had not read such sweet paragraphs of heaven'smercy as hers had done; some who had not seen, heard, and felt what herdumb, silent, deaf fingers had brought into her heart of joy, hope, andlove. Think of that, ye young eyes and ears that daily feast upon thebeauty and melody of this outer world! Within the atmosphere of herquick sensibilities, she felt the presence of those whose cup was fullof affliction. She put her fingers, with their throbbing sympathies, upon the lean bloodless faces of the famishing children in Ireland, andher sightless eyes filled with the tears that the blind may shed forgriefs they cannot see. And then she plied the needle and thosefingers, and quickened their industry by placing them anon upon theslow sickly pulse of want that wasted her kind at noonday across theocean. Days, and nights too--for day and night were alike to herwakeful sympathies--and weeks she wrought on with her needle. And thenthe embroidery of those fingers was sold to the merchants. Would it hadbeen sold to England's Queen, to be worn by the young princesses ondays of state! It was sold; and its purchase price was _a barrel offlour_, instead of a country's harvest, which it was well worth. Andthat barrel of flour was stowed away without other private mark thanthat the recording Angel put upon it, among the thousands thatfreighted the _Jamestown_ on her recent mission of brotherly love toIreland. _Laura Bridgman and her barrel of flour_ should teach theworld a lesson worth the woes of one year's famine. " Laura favoured uswith her autograph on a slip of paper, which we shall always carefullypreserve as a memorial of a visit to one of the greatest wonders of theage. 

In another room we were introduced to Oliver Caswell. He is about thesame age as Laura, and similarly afflicted, but has been in theinstitution only six years. His teacher told him, in the samefinger-language which was used with Laura, that we came from BritishGuiana, and desired him to find out the place on the large globe beforehim. This globe was made for the use of the blind, having upon it thecountries and their names in relievo. Oliver turned it round, and feltwith his fingers until they soon rested on the required spot, when heseemed greatly delighted. His attainments are not so remarkable asthose of Laura, for he has not been so long under tuition; but hisprogress is highly encouraging. 

At 4 P. M. We left Boston by railway for Albany, --fare 5 dollars each. We rested, however, at Springfield for the night, and that in the mostcomfortable hotel we had met with in the States. The next day we movedon to Pittsfield, where we arrived at half-past 11. Finding that wemight get off from that train, and go by another in three or fourhours' time, we availed ourselves of the opportunity of calling uponthe Rev. Dr. Todd, the author of "Lectures to Children, " "The Student'sGuide, " &c. Instead of the prim, neat, little man we had alwaysimagined him to be, we found him tall, coarse, slovenly, and unshaven;a man of 46 years of age; hair of an iron-grey, rough and uncombed;features large; cheek-bones prominent; and the straps of his trowsersunbuttoned, and flapping about his slippers. But, under thisunpromising exterior, we discerned a soul of great intelligence, frankness, and brotherly kindness. Mrs. Todd has been a woman of greatbeauty, and, though she has brought up a large family of children, isstill fresh and comely. Their eldest daughter is 19 years of age; andJohn, to whom the "Lectures to Children" were dedicated, is now 14years of age. The Doctor's insane mother, for whose sake he was firstled to employ his pen, has been dead for some years. His desire tovisit England is very strong. He had been appointed by the churches ofMassachusetts to visit those of England last year in the character of adelegate; but the means of meeting the expenses of such a delegationwere not provided, and consequently the visit was not paid. It isworthy of observation that the Doctor's books have been sold in Englandfar more extensively than in America; but from the English editions hereceives no profit, and even from the American ones very little. As itmay be the first time that English readers hear of John Todd as_Doctor_ Todd, and as there is an impression that our American friendsbestow their literary honours too freely and indiscriminately, --which, indeed, is true in reference to some scores of institutions, --nothingbeing easier than to obtain a D. D. , --I would just observe that thisapplies not to the New England Colleges. They are very chary of suchhonours, and only confer that of D. D. On ministers of long standing andhigh attainments. In the case of Mr. Todd it was most deservedlybestowed. 

Pittsfield is but a small town, of about 5, 000 inhabitants. TheGovernor of Massachusetts resided there, and was a deacon of a BaptistChurch. Dr. Todd presides over a Congregational Church. To theprinciples of Congregationalism he is devoutly attached. While othersregard Presbyterianism and Congregationalism as matters of meregeographical boundary, Todd could never be prevailed upon, even by themost advantageous offers, to do the same. He said he had nailed hisflag to the mast, and would never abandon it. "I regardCongregationalism, " said he to me, "as a sort of a working-jacket: withit on I can work with anybody, in any place, and in any way. " With thisgreat and good man we exceedingly enjoyed a homely dinner and a fewhours' converse. In coming out, I observed before the door, half-covered with snow, a beautiful model of the Temple of Theseus. This was the work of the Doctor's own hands. 

At 3-1/2 P. M. We left for Albany. At the station, before crossing theHudson, we observed in large letters the ominous words "Beware ofpickpockets!" On reaching the city we went to the "Delevan House, " socalled after Mr. Delevan, who has done so much for the advancement oftemperance in America. The house is his property, but he does notconduct it. He lives there as a lodger; and I was permitted to spendthe evening in conversation with him. The house is the largesttemperance hotel in the world. It will accommodate about 400 guests. Those who keep it are religious people, and have a publicfamily-worship every evening, usually conducted by the master of thehouse; but if a minister of any denomination be present, he is asked toofficiate. A bell is rung, and all who feel disposed to unite in theworship assemble in a large room. On this occasion it was my privilegeto conduct the service; and in such a place, and under suchcircumstances, it was to me an exercise of peculiar interest. A hymntoo was sung, and well sung, --the tune being led by the master of thehouse, aided by his family. 

The next morning, at half-past 7, we set off by railway to Utica, adistance of 94 miles, which we did not accomplish in less than 6-1/2hours, making an average of less than 15 miles an hour, and for whichwe paid 2-1/2 dollars, or 10s. 6d. This journey led us through thevalley of the Mohawk, and that river was for the most part our constantcompanion. The railway and the river seemed to be wedded to eachother, --the former conforming to all the whims and windings, andturnings and twistings of the latter. 

Utica is a small city, of about 14, 000 inhabitants. Its progress hasbeen but slow. The houses are painted white, and appear neat andcomfortable. I was struck with the immense number of them that wereerected with their gable end to the street, and with a small porticosupported by two fluted columns. A large portion of the inhabitants areWelsh, who have here four or five places of worship. The Rev. JamesGriffiths, a man of great piety and worth, is the minister of the WelshIndependents. At his house we were most kindly entertained during ourstay. On the Sabbath I preached for him twice in Welsh. The followingweek we were taken to Remsen, eighteen miles off, to see the Rev. Mr. Everett, whose farewell sermon on leaving Wales I had heard when quitea boy, --and the Rev. Morris Roberts, to whom I had bidden adieu inLiverpool sixteen years before. It was delightful to meet thesehonoured brethren in their adopted home, after the lapse of so manyyears. Remsen is quite a Welsh settlement; and these men both presideover Welsh churches there. Mr. Everett is the editor of a Welsh MonthlyMagazine. In that periodical, as well as in his ministrations, he hasbeen unflinching in his denunciations of slavery. This has exposed himto cruel persecutions. There are about 70, 000 Welsh people in theUnited States who worship in their own language. At Remsen I had todeliver two addresses on the results of emancipation in the WestIndies. On our return to Utica, the friend who drove us happenedincidentally to mention that in that country they make the dogs churn!"The dogs churn!" I said, "Yes, " said he; "and I dare say they have achurning-machine so worked at this house: let us call and see. " It wasa farm-house. At the door about half-a-dozen chubby little children, with fine rosy cheeks, were assembled to see the strangers. I began tospeak in English to the eldest, a boy about 10 years of age; but thelad stared! He understood not a word I said. 

Though born and so far brought up there, he knew nothing but Welsh! Wewere gratified with an inspection of the machine for churning. It wasworked very much on the same principle as a treadmill, and exceedinglydisliked by the poor dog. Goats are sometimes made to perform the sameservice. In several instances, we saw horses in like manner made to sawwood, and admired the ingenuity of our cousins in turning to accountevery particle of power they possess. "What is the difference, " saidDr. Beecher once to a ship-captain, "between an English sailor and aYankee one?" The answer was, "An English sailor can do a thing verywell in _one_ way, but the Yankee can do it in half-a-dozen ways. "

LETTER XXXV. 

A Peep at the House of Representatives in Albany--"The Chair is but aMan, " &c. --Sailing down the Hudson--Dr. Spring--His MorningSermon--Afternoon Service--Gough the great Lecturer--The Tract Houseand Steam-presses--May-day in New York--Staten Island--Immigrants--Ahurried Glance. 

On the 22nd we left Utica at 11 A. M. , and reached Albany at 5 P. M. AtSchenectady Mr. Delevan got into the same carriage with us; and we hadhis company to Albany. He had caused to be put into the hand of everypassenger by that train a tract on the claims of the Sabbath, a largenumber of which he had printed at his own expense. He spends an immensefortune in doing good, chiefly by means of the press. 

In the evening I strolled out to see a little of Albany, the capital ofthe State of New York. I gazed with interest on Dr. Sprague's Church, and wandered until I came to a large building brilliantly lighted. Itwas the State House or Capitol. The legislature was then in session. Imarched on, and got in without the least hinderance. There was no crowdand no stir about the doors. A simple rail divided the part allotted tothe spectators from that which was used by the members. About a hundredof the latter were present. The Senate, whose hall was in another partof the same building, had been adjourned till next day. This was theHouse of Representatives; and they seemed to be in the midst of a veryangry discussion. Their cheeks swelled with rage, or with--quids oftobacco. A spittoon, constantly used, was placed by the side of eachmember. They were rebelling against the speaker; and, of all mortals, Inever saw one in a more unenviable position than he. All that hislittle hammer, his tongue, and his hands could do was of no avail. Thestorm raged. The words "honourable member, " "unparliamentary, " "order, ""chair, " and "_in_-quiry, " were bandied about in all directions. One ofthe "honourable members, " rushing out past me, said with a loud voice, "I'll go and get a segar, " &c. At last the speaker--poor fellow!--intones of humiliation and despair said, "The _chair_ is but a _man_;and, if we err, we are ready to acknowledge our error. "

The next day we left by the steam-boat "Roger Williams, " and saileddown the majestic Hudson to New York, a distance of 145 miles; fare onedollar each. This river has so often been described by travellers thatI need not repeat the attempt. 

The following day was Saturday. In the afternoon I met Dr. Spring atthe Tract House. After the usual salutation, he said, "Shall we hearyour voice at our place to-morrow afternoon?"--"I have no objection, sir, --what time does your service commence?" "At 4 o'clock. "--"Verywell. " "Where shall I find you?"--"Where will you be?" "I shall be inthe pulpit five minutes before the time. "--"Oh! _very_ well, _very_well. "

In the morning I went to hear the Doctor. His introductory prayer waslong. In it he prayed for Mexico--that it might have a "free andreligious government, " and that the present war might result in theoverthrow there of the "man of sin;" but no reference to Americanslavery. The Doctor, bear in mind, is an Old School Presbyterian, and asupporter of the Colonization Society. His text was John v. 23: "Thatall men should honour the Son, even as they honour the Father, " &c. Hisdivisions were--

I. What honours are ascribed to the Father. 

1. Appropriate names and titles. Jehovah, &c. 

2. Ascription of most glorious attributes. Eternal--Immutable--Omnipotent, &c. 

3. Great and glorious works. Creation--Preservation--Redemption--Atonement--Regeneration--Justification--Raising the dead--Judging theworld--Destroying it--Glory of the righteous--Punishment of the wicked. (All these were supported by appropriate quotations of Scripture. )

4. Duties enjoined in reference to Him. Confidence--Worship, &c. 

II. That the same honours are ascribed to the Son. (He went over eachof the above particulars, showing from Scripture their application tothe Son. )

III. That, therefore, the Son is properly and truly God. 

1. We cannot believe the Scriptures would ascribe the same honours toHim as to the Father, if He were not equal to the Father. 

2. If He be not truly God, the Scriptures tempt to idolatry. 

3. If He be not truly God, the accounts which the Scriptures give ofHim are self-contradictory. 

4. If He be not truly God, there is no evidence from Scripture thatthere is a God at all. 

This was a massive and compact argument for the Divinity of Christ. Itoccupied upwards of an hour in the delivery, and was read. 

In the afternoon I took care to be in the pulpit five minutes beforethe time. The Doctor shortly after came, and took his seat behind me. This to me is always an annoyance, --I would almost as soon have a manwith me in bed as in the pulpit;--and in this instance it waspeculiarly so, as towards the close, although I had not exceeded fortyminutes, I felt quite persuaded that the Doctor was pulling at mycoat-tail, which led me rather abruptly to conclude. In this, however, I was mistaken; and the Doctor assured me it was what he had never donein his life, except in one instance, --and that was when the preacher, having occupied two hours with his sermon, was entering upon a third. 

In the evening of the 27th of April I heard, at the Tabernacle, NewYork, the celebrated Gough deliver a lecture on Temperance. It was tocommence at 8 o'clock; but we had to be there an hour before the time, in order to get a comfortable place. That hour was a dreary one. Thescraping of throats and the spitting were horrible. It seemed as ifsome hundreds of guttural organs were uttering the awfully gutturalsentence, _"Hwch goch dorchog a chwech o berchill cochion. "_

At last Gough made his appearance on the platform. He is a slenderyoung man of three or four and twenty. He told us he had spoken everynight except three for the last thirty nights, and was then very weary, but thought "what a privilege it is to live and labour in the presentday. " He related his own past experience of _delirium tremens_, --how aniron rod in his hand became a snake, --how a many-bladed knife piercedhis flesh, --how a great face on the wall grinned at and threatened him;"and yet, " he added, "I _knew_ it was a delusion!"

A temperance man, pointing to Gough, had once observed to another, "What a miserable-looking fellow that is!" "But, " replied the other, "you would not say so, if you saw how he keeps everybody in a roar oflaughter at the public-house till 1 or 2 in the morning. " "But I _was_miserable, " said Gough; "I _knew_ that the parties who courted andflattered me really _despised_ me. " He told us some humoroustales, --how he used to mortify some of them by claiming acquaintancewith them in the street, and in the presence of their respectablefriends. He returned scorn for scorn. "Gough, " said a man once to him, "you ought to be ashamed of yourself to be always drinking in thismanner. " "Do I drink at your expense?"--"No. " "Do I owe youanything?"--"No. " "Do I ever ask you to treat me?"--"No. " "Then mindyour own business, " &c. He introduced this to show that that mode ofdealing with the drunkard was not likely to answer the purpose. 

"Six years ago, " said he, "a man on the borders of Connecticut, satnight after night on a stool in a low tavern to scrape an old fiddle. Had you seen him, with his old hat drawn over his eyebrows, his swollenlips, and his silly grin, you would have thought him adapted fornothing else. But he signed the pledge, and in two years became aUnited States senator, and thrilled the House with his eloquence. "

In one place, after Gough had delivered a lecture, some ladies gatheredaround him, and one of them said, "I wish you would ask Joe to 'signthe pledge, "--referring to a wretched-looking young man that wassauntering near the door. Gough went up to him, spoke _kindly_ to him, and got him to sign: the ladies were delighted, and heartily shookhands with Joe. A year after Gough met Joe quite a dandy, walkingarm-in-arm with a fine young lady. "Well, Joe, did you stick to thepledge?" said Gough to him. "Yes, " said Joe with an exulting smile, "and the lady has stuck to me. "

For more than an hour Gough kept the vast audience enchained by hisvaried and charming talk. 

On the 29th I went over the Tract House in New York, and was delightedto see there six steam-presses, --four of which were then at work, pouring forth in rapid succession sheet after sheet impressed with thatkind of literature which in my judgment is admirably adapted to meetthe wants of this growing country. They were then printing on anaverage 27, 000 publications, including nearly 2, 400 of each kind, _perdiem!_ and employing sixty women in folding and stitching. During thelast year they printed 713, 000 volumes, and 8, 299, 000 smallerpublications, making a total of 217, 499, 000 pages, or 58, 154, 661 pagesmore than in any previous year! Of the _volumes_ issued, I may mention14, 000 sets of four volumes of D'Aubigné's History of the Reformation, 17, 000 of Bunyan's Pilgrim, 10, 000 of Baxter's Saints' Rest, 9, 000 ofDoddridge's Rise and Progress, 7, 000 of Pike's Persuasives, 13, 000 ofAlleine's Alarm, and 41, 000 of Baxter's Call! The two Secretaries, whose business it is to superintend the publishing department andmatters relating to the raising of funds, the Rev. Wm. A. Hallock andthe Rev. O. Eastman, are enterprising and plodding men. They told methey were brought up together in the same neighbourhood, and had bothworked at the plough till they were 20 years of age!

The 1st of May is the great moving day in New York. Throughout the cityone house seems to empty itself into another. Were it to the next door, it might be done with no great inconvenience; but it is not so. Try towalk along the causeway, and you are continually blocked up withtables, chairs, and chests of drawers. Get into an omnibus, and you arebeset with fenders, pokers, pans, Dutch ovens, baskets, brushes, &c. Hire a cart, and they charge you double fare. 

One day at the water-side, happening to see the steamer for StatenIsland about to move off, we stepped on board, and in less than half anhour found ourselves there. The distance is 6 miles, and the island is18 miles long, 7 miles wide, and 300 feet high. Here are a largehospital for mariners and the quarantine burying-ground. It is alsostudded with several genteel residences. In 1657 the Indians sold it tothe Dutch for 10 shirts, 30 pairs of stockings, 10 guns, 30 bars oflead, 30 lbs. Of powder, 12 coats, 2 pieces of duffil, 30 kettles, 30hatchets, 20 hoes, and one case of knives and awls. 

Several emigrant vessels were then in the bay. On our return, we sawwith painful interest many of them setting their foot for the firsttime on the shore of the New World. They were then arriving in NewYork, chiefly from the United Kingdom, at the rate of one thousand aday. The sight affected me even to tears. It was like a vision of theBritish Empire crumbling to pieces, and the materials taken to build anew and hostile dominion. 

I should draw too largely upon your patience, were I to describe manyobjects of interest and many scenes of beauty I witnessed in New Yorkand the neighbourhood. The Common Schools; the Croton Waterworks, capable of yielding an adequate supply for a million-and-a-half ofpeople; Hoboken, with its sibyl's cave and elysian fields; the spot onwhich General Hamilton fell in a duel; the Battery and Castle Garden--acovered amphitheatre capable of accommodating 10, 000 people; the Park, and the City Hall with its white marble front; Trinity Church; and itswealthy Corporation; Long Island, or Brooklyn, with its delightfulcemetery, &c. , &c. Suffice it to say that New York has a population ofabout 400, 000; and that it has for that population, without anEstablished Church, 215 places of worship. Brooklyn has also apopulation of 60, 000, and 30 places of worship. 

LETTER XXXVI. 

The May Meetings--Dr. Bushnell's Striking Sermon--Two Anti-SlaveryMeetings--A Black Demosthenes--Foreign Evangelical Society--A New Thingin the New World--The Home-Missionary Society--Progress and Prospectsof the West--Church of Rome--Departure from New York--What the Authorthinks of the Americans. 

The American May Meetings held in New York do not last a month as inEngland, --a week suffices. That week is the second in the month. On theSabbath preceding, sermons on behalf of many of the societies arepreached in various churches. On the morning of the Sabbath in questionwe went to the Tabernacle, not knowing whom we should hear. To oursurprise and pleasure, my friend Dr. Baird was the preacher. His textwas, "Let thy kingdom come;" and the object for which he had to pleadwas the Foreign Evangelical Society, of which he was the Secretary. Hissermon was exceedingly simple, and the delivery quite in an off-handconversational style. There was no reading. 

In the evening we heard Dr. Bushnell preach, on behalf of the AmericanHome-Missionary Society, at the "Church of the Pilgrims" in Brooklyn. This is a fine costly building, named in honour of the Pilgrim Fathers, and having a fragment of the Plymouth Rock imbedded in the wall. Thesermon was a very ingenious one on Judges xvii. 13: "Then said Micah, Now know I that the Lord will do me good, seeing I have a Levite to mypriest. " The preacher observed that Micah lived in the time of theJudges--what might be called the "emigrant age" of Israel, --that he wasintroduced on the stage of history as a thief, --that he afterwardsbecame in his own way a saint, and must have a priest. First, heconsecrates his own son; but his son not being a Levite, it wasdifficult for so pious a man to be satisfied. Fortunately a youngLevite--a strolling mendicant probably--comes that way; and he promptlyengages the youth to remain and act the _padre_ for him, saying, "Dwellwith me, and be a _father_ unto me. " Having thus got up a religion, thethief is content, and his mental troubles are quieted. Becoming aRomanist before Rome is founded, he says, "Now know I that the Lordwill do me good, seeing I have a Levite to my priest. " Religion to himconsisted in a fine silver apparatus of gods, and a priest in regularsuccession. In this story of Micah it was seen that _emigration, or anew settlement of the social state, involves a tendency to socialdecline_. "Our first danger, " said the preacher, "is barbarism--Romanism next. "

The tendency to barbarism was illustrated by historic references. Theemigration headed by Abraham soon developed a mass of barbarism, --Lotgiving rise to the Moabites and the Ammonites; meanwhile, Abrahamthrowing off upon the world in his son Ishmael another stock ofbarbarians--the Arabs, --a name which according to some signifies_Westerners_. One generation later, and another ferocious race springsfrom the family of Isaac--the descendants of Esau, or the Edomites. Then coming down to the time of the Judges we find that violenceprevailed, that the roads were destroyed, and that the arts hadperished: there was not even a smith left in the land; and they wereobliged to go down to the Philistines to get an axe or a mattocksharpened. Then the preacher came to the great American questionitself. It was often supposed that in New England there had always beenan upward tendency. It was not so. It had been downward until the"great revival" about the year 1740. The dangers to which society inthe South and "Far West" is now exposed were powerfully described. Theremedies were then pointed out. 

"First of all, we must not despair. " "And what next? We must get rid, if possible, of slavery. " "'We must have peace. '". Also "Railways andtelegraphs. " "Education, too, we must favour and promote. " "Above all, provide a talented and educated body of Christian teachers, and keepthem pressing into the wilderness as far as emigration itself can go. "The conclusion of this great sermon was so remarkable that I cannot butgive it in the Doctor's own words. 

"And now, Jehovah God, thou who, by long ages of watch and discipline, didst make of thy servant Abraham a people, be thou the God also ofthis great nation. Remember still its holy beginnings, and for thefathers' sakes still cherish and sanctify it. Fill it with thy Lightand thy Potent Influence, till the glory of thy Son breaks out on theWestern sea as now upon the Eastern, and these uttermost parts, givento Christ for his possession, become the bounds of a new Christianempire, whose name the believing and the good of all people shall hailas a name of hope and blessing. "

On the Tuesday I attended two Anti-slavery Meetings in the Tabernacle. The one in the morning was that of Mr. Garrison's party. The chiefspeakers were Messrs. Garrison, Wendell Phillips, and FrederickDouglass. This party think that the constitution of the United Statesis so thoroughly pro-slavery that nothing can be done without breakingit up. Another party, at the head of which is Lewis Tappan, think thatthere are elements in the constitution which may be made to tellpowerfully against slavery, and ultimately to effect its overthrow. Both parties mean well; but they unhappily cherish towards each othergreat bitterness of feeling. Mr. Tappan's party held their meeting inthe afternoon. Among the speakers was the Rev. Mr. Patton fromHartford, son of Dr. Patton, who made a very effective speeches. TheRev. Samuel Ward also, a black man of great muscular power, and amazingcommand of language and of himself, astonished and delighted me. Icould not but exclaim, "There speaks a black Demosthenes!" This man, strange to say, is the pastor of a Congregational church of whitepeople in the State of New York. As a public speaker he seemed superiorto Frederick Douglass. It was pleasing at those anti-slavery meetingsto see how completely intermingled were the whites and the coloured. 

I had been invited in the evening to speak at the public meeting of theForeign Evangelical Society, and to take tea at Dr. Baird's house. While I was there, Dr. Anderson, one of the Secretaries of the AmericanBoard of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and Mr. Merwin, called toinvite me to address the public meeting of that society on the Friday. I promised to do so, if I should not previously have left for the WestIndies. The public meeting of Dr. Baird's society was held in the DutchReformed Church, Dr. Hutton's, a magnificent Gothic building. Dr. DeWitt took the chair. The attendance was large and respectable. Dr. Baird, as Secretary, having recently returned from Europe, where he hadconversed on the subject of his mission with fourteen crowned heads, read a most interesting report. The writer had then to address themeeting. After him three other gentlemen spoke. There was nocollection! Strange to say, that, with all their revivals, our friendsin America seem to be morbidly afraid of doing anything under theinfluence of excitement. Hence the addresses on occasions like this aregenerally stiff and studied, half-an-hour orations. This feelingprevents their turning the voluntary principle, in the support of theirreligious societies, to so good an account as they otherwise might. Atthe close of this meeting, there seemed to be a fine state of feelingfor making a collection; and yet no collection was made. This societyis one of great value and importance. It is designed to tell in thepromotion of evangelical truth on the Catholic countries of Europe andSouth America. In those countries, it employs a hundred colporteurs inthe sale and distribution of religious publications. 

The next morning I addressed a breakfast meeting of about 400 people, in a room connected with the Tabernacle. This was a new thing in theNew World. It was, moreover, an anti-slavery breakfast, under thepresidency of Lewis Tappan. It was charming to see the whites and thecoloured so intermingled at this social repast, and that in the veryheart of the great metropolis of America. 

At 10 the same morning a meeting of the American Tract Society was heldat the Tabernacle. I had been engaged to speak on that occasion, butwas obliged to go and see about the vessel that was to take us away. 

In the evening I was pressed, at half an hour's notice, to speak at themeeting of the American Home-Missionary Society. The Rev. H. W. Beecherof Indianapolis, one of the sons of Dr. Beecher, made a powerful speechon the claims of the West and South-west. In my own address Icomplimented the Directors on the ground they had recently taken inreference to slavery, and proceeded to say that there was an importantsense in which that society should be an anti-slavery society. Thiselicited the cheers of the few, which were immediately drowned in thehisses of the many. The interruption was but momentary, and Iproceeded. The next morning one of the Secretaries endeavoured topersuade me that the hisses were not at myself, but at those whointerrupted me with their cheers. I told him his explanation wasingenious and kind; nevertheless I thought I might justly claim thehonour of having been hissed for uttering an anti-slavery sentiment atthe Tabernacle in New York!

This society has an herculean task to perform; and, in consideration ofit, our American friends might well be excused for some years, were itpossible, from all foreign operations. 

 "Westward the star of empire moves. "

Ohio welcomed its first permanent settlers in 1788, and now it isoccupied by nearly 2, 000, 000 of people. Michigan obtained its firstimmigrants but fourteen or fifteen years ago, and now has a populationof 300, 000. Indiana, admitted into the Union in 1816, has since thenreceived a population of more than half a million, and now numbersnearly a million of inhabitants. Illinois became a State in 1818. Fromthat date its population trebled every ten years till the last censusof 1840, and since then has risen from 476, 000 to about 900, 000. Missouri, which in 1810 had only 20, 800 people, has now 600, 000, havingincreased 50 per cent. In six years. Iowa was scarcely heard of a dozenyears ago. It is now a State, and about 150, 000 people call its landtheir home. Wisconsin was organized but twelve years ago, and has now apopulation of not less than 200, 000. One portion of its territory, 33miles by 30, which ten years before was an unbroken wilderness, numbered even in 1846 87, 000 inhabitants; and the emigration to the"Far West" is now greater than ever. A giant is therefore growing upthere, who will soon be able and disposed to rule the destinies of theUnited States. The Church of Rome is straining every nerve to have thatgiant in her own keeping, and already shouts the song of triumph. Saysone of her sanguine sons, "The Church is now firmly established in thiscountry, and persecution will but cause it to thrive. Our countrymenmay grieve that it is so; but it is useless for them to kick againstthe decrees of the Almighty God. They have an open field and fair playfor Protestantism. Here she has had free scope, has reigned without arival, and proved what she could do, and that her best is evil; for thevery good she boasts is not hers. A new day is dawning on this chosenland, and the Church is about to assume her rightful position andinfluence. Ours shall yet become consecrated ground. _Our hills andvalleys shall yet echo to the convent-bell. _ The cross shall be plantedthroughout the length and breadth of our land; and our happy sons anddaughters shall drive away fear, shall drive away evil from our borderswith the echoes of their matin and vesper hymns. No matter who writes, who declaims, who intrigues, who is alarmed, or what leagues areformed, THIS IS TO BE A CATHOLIC COUNTRY; and from Maine to Georgia, from the broad Atlantic to broader Pacific, the 'clean sacrifice' is tobe offered daily for quick and dead. " The triumph may be premature; butit conveys a timely warning. 

The next day the Anniversary of the Bible Society was held. The Hon. Theodore Frelinghuysen presided. At that meeting I had been requested, to speak, but could not. Indeed, we were detained all day on board avessel by which we expected every hour to sail for Jamaica; though, after all, we had to wait until the following day. On that day, the14th of May, just at the time the Board of Missions were holding theirpublic meeting, we sailed, and bade adieu to New York and all thedelightful engagements of that memorable week. 

But, say you, Tell us in a few words what you think of America upon thewhole? I will try to do so. There is a class of things I greatlyadmire; and there is a class of things I greatly detest. Among theformer I may mention--

1. Religious equality--the absence of a State church. 

2. The workings of the voluntary principle in the abundant supply ofplaces of worship, and in the support of religious institutions. 

3. General education. With regard to their common schools, and also totheir colleges, they are far in advance of us in England. The existenceof universal suffrage has the effect of stimulating educational effortsto a degree which would not otherwise be attained. The more respectableand intelligent of the citizens are made to feel that, with universalsuffrage, their dearest institutions are all perilled unless the massbe educated. 

As education is the great question of the day, I must not omit to makea few remarks on the Primary Schools of the United States. There is no_national_ system of education in America. Congress does not interferein the matter, except in the "Territories" before they become "States. "The States of the Union are so many distinct Republics, and, in thematter of education, as in all their internal affairs, are leftentirely to take their own measures. With regard to education, no twoStates act precisely alike. If we glance at the States ofMassachusetts, New York, and Ohio, we shall, however, discover thethree great types of what in this respect generally prevails throughoutthe States. 

MASSACHUSETTS. --Scarcely had the "Pilgrims" been half-a-dozen years intheir wilderness home before they began to make what they deemed asuitable provision for the instruction of their children. They adoptedthe same principle in reference to education and religion--that oftaxation. A general tax was not imposed; but the people in the varioustownships were empowered to tax themselves to a certain amount, and tomanage the whole affair by means of their own "select men. " But, although this law has continued for 200 years, the people have alwaysdone far more than it required. In Boston, for instance, the lawdemands only 3, 000 dollars a year, but not less than 60, 000 dollars israised and applied! So that here we have a noble proof, not so much ofthe effect of government interference, as of the efficiency of thevoluntary principle in providing education for the young. The people ofMassachusetts, and indeed of all the New England States, are doubtlessthe best educated in the world. Not one in a thousand of those bornhere grows up unable to read and write. 

The calumniated "Pilgrims" were thus early attentive to the importanceof education; and their system had been in full operation for betweenthirty and forty years, when, in 1670, Sir William Berkley, Governor ofVirginia, the stronghold of the Anglican Church, thus devoutlyaddressed the "Lords of Plantations in England:"--"I thank God _thereare no free schools nor printing_, and I hope we shall not have themthese hundred years; for learning has brought _disobedience and heresyand sects_ into the world, and printing has divulged them, and libelsagainst the best government. God keep us from both!"

The system of Massachusetts may be regarded as a type of what prevailsin the six New England States, except Connecticut, where there is aState fund of upwards of 2, 000, 000 dollars, yielding an annual dividendof about 120, 000 dollars for school purposes. 

NEW YORK. --In this State a large fund for schools has been created bythe sale of public land. The proceeds of this fund are annuallydistributed in such a way as to secure the raising by local efforts ofat least three times the amount for the same object. This fund is thusused as a gentle stimulant to local exertions. The system describedwill convey a notion of what exists in the _middle_ States. 

Ohio. --In this and the Western States every township is divided into somany sections of a mile square; and one of these sections, out of agiven number, is devoted to the maintenance of schools. As a townshipincreases in population, the reserved section advances in value. Theseschools are not subject to any central control, but are under themanagement of a committee chosen by the township. 

Still education is not so general in all the States as might be wished. Miss Beecher, the daughter of Dr. Beecher, having devoted to thesubject much time and talent, tells us that there are in the UnitedStates "a million adults who cannot read and write, and more than twomillions of children utterly illiterate and entirely without schools!"Of the children in this condition, 130, 000 are in Ohio, and 100, 000 inKentucky. 

In the working of this system of education, the absence of a StateChurch affords advantages not enjoyed in England. Of late, however, anobjection to the use of the Bible in these schools has been raised bythe Roman Catholics, and the question in some States has been fiercelyagitated. In the city of St. Louis the Bible has been excluded. InCincinnati the Catholics, failing to exclude it, have establishedschools of their own. 

This agitation is one of great interest. It leads thoughtful and devoutmen to ask, whether, when the State, assuming to be the instructor ofits subjects, establishes schools, and puts Protestant Bibles, or anyother, or none into them _by law_, they have not thenceforthProtestantism, Popery, or Infidelity so far _by law established_; andwhether it is not better that the State should restrict itself to itsproper function as the minister of justice, leaving secularinstruction, like religious, to the spontaneous resources of thepeople. 

To this, I think, it will come at last. The Common School economy is aremnant of the old Church-and-State system, which has not been entirelyswept away. But for this impression I should feel some uneasiness, lestit should prove the germ of a new order of things leading back toState-Churchism. It appeared to me quite natural to say, "Here is aState provision for schools, --why not have a similar provision forchurches? It works well for the one, --why not for the other? Is it notas important that our churches should rely, not alone on the capriciousand scanty efforts of the voluntary principle, but also on the morerespectable and permanent support of the State, as it is that ourCommon Schools should adopt this course?" To me it seemed that thearguments which recommended the one supported the other; but when Ihave mentioned to intelligent men the possibility, not to sayprobability, of the one step leading to the other, they have invariablybeen surprised at my apprehensions, and have assured me that nothingwas more unlikely to take place. 

But, to show the jealousy with which on _other_ grounds the systembegins to be viewed, I will close by a short quotation from a writer inthe _New Englander_, a respectable _Quarterly_, to which I have beforereferred. "It will, doubtless, be thought strange to say that thesystems of public common-school education now existing, and sought tobe established throughout our country, may yet, while Christians sleep, become one of the greatest, if not _the_ greatest, antagonism in theland to all evangelical instruction and piety. But how long before theywill be so, --when they shall have become the mere creatures of theState, and, under the plea of no sectarianism, mere naturalism shall bethe substance of all the religious, and the basis of all the secularteaching which they shall give? And let it not be forgotten that strongcurrents of influence, in all parts of the country, acting in no chanceconcert, are doing their utmost to bring about just this result. "

4. I admire their _temperance_. 

I confess that I felt humbled and ashamed for my own country, when, sosoon as I trod on British ground, or British _planks_, the old absurddrinking usages again saluted my eye. In all the States I met withnothing more truly ludicrous than some of these. For instance, whenA. B. 's mouth happens to be well replenished with, "flesh, fish, orfowl, " potatoes, pudding, or pastry, at one table, C. D. , from anothertable far away across the room, at the top of his voice, calls out, "Mr. A. B. , allow me the pleasure to take a glass of wine with you. "A. B. Makes a very polite bow, fills his glass in a great hurry, holdsit up with his right hand, C. D. Doing the same thing with his; andthen A. B. And C. D. , making another polite bow to each other, simultaneously swallow their glasses of wine! Were we not _accustomed_to the sight, it would appear as laughable as anything travellers tellus of the manners and customs of the least enlightened nations. Surely, if this childish practice is still a rule in polite society, it is one"more honoured in the breach than the observance. " In no city on theEastern side of the Alleghany Mountains did I meet a single drunkenAmerican in the street. The few whom I did detect in that plight weremanifestly recent importations from Great Britain and Ireland!

5. I also greatly admire their _secular enterprise_. They afford afine illustration of the idea conveyed in their own indigenous phrase, "Go a-head. "

LETTER XXXVII. 

Slavery--Responsibility of the North--District of Columbia--Preponderanceof the Slave Power--Extermination of the Indians--President Taylor andhis Blood-hounds--Conclusion. 

But there is a class of things among them which men of well-regulatedminds and habits cannot but detest. These, as they have come under mynotice, I have pointed out. The chief of all is _slavery_. This staredme in the face the moment I entered the States; and it presses itselfon my notice now that I have retired from the American shore. It is thebeginning and the ending of all that is vile and vicious in thisconfederation of Republics. In England, you have been often told byAmerican visiters that the Northern States of the Union are not at allidentified with slavery, and are, in fact, no more responsible for itsexistence in the South than we are for the existence of a like systemin the colonies of some of our European Allies. Than thisrepresentation nothing can be further from the truth. There is reallyno analogy whatever between the two cases. Each State, it is true, hasits own distinct and independent legislature; but all the States areunited in one federation, which has a thoroughly pro-slaverygovernment. The constitution is pledged to maintain the execrablesystem, and the Northern States are pledged to maintain thehypocritical constitution. 

That no preponderance of influence might be given to any one State overthe rest, by making it the seat of the central government, a districtof 10 miles square was partitioned out, partly from Virginia and partlyfrom Maryland, for that purpose. This district, called the District ofColumbia, has no government and no representation of its own, but isunder the absolute control and regulation of the United Government orCongress, "exclusive jurisdiction over it in all cases whatsoever"having been given by the constitution. In this absolute government ofthe "ten miles square, " embracing the site of Washington the capital, the Northern States, by their representatives in Congress, have theirfull share. Now, not merely does slavery exist in that District, but itexists there under statutes so barbarous and cruel that theneighbouring slave States have actually abolished the like within thebounds of their separate jurisdiction, leaving to the _free_ States theunenviable responsibility of enforcing laws too horrible forkidnappers. Take a specimen, --"A slave convicted of any petit treason, or murder, or wilful burning of a dwelling-house, to have the righthand cut off, to be hanged in the usual manner, the head severed fromthe body, the body divided into four quarters, and the head andquarters set up in the most public places of the county where such actwas committed. " Take another, --"A _free negro_ may be arrested, and putin jail for 3 months, on _suspicion_ of being a runaway; and if he isnot able to _prove_ his freedom in 12 months, _he is to be sold as aslave_ TO PAY HIS JAIL FEES!" Are there not hundreds of free men, bothblack and white, who could not _prove_ their freedom under suchcircumstances? Yet, for this _crime_, they are reduced to perpetualbondage _by authority of Congress_. And all this the North upholds!

Washington, the capital, thus governed, is but the great mart of thenational man-trade. From the adjoining port of Alexandria, 7 miles off, the victims are shipped for the South. Listen to the _Gazette_ of thatplace, --"Here you may behold fathers and brothers leaving behind themthe dearest objects of affection, and moving slowly along in the muteagony of despair, --there the young mother sobbing over the infant, whose innocent smiles seem but to increase her misery. From some youwill hear the burst of bitter lamentation; while from others the loudhysteric laugh breaks forth, denoting still deeper agony. "

But you will be told that it is not in the power of Northern members toalter this state of things. Why not? In the House of Representativesthe free States have a majority of about 50, and in the Senate theyhave for some years been equal. But have they tried? Have theyprotested? Have they voted? Have they divided the House? They _have_voted. How? _Eighty-two Northern men_, a few years ago, voted thatCongress ought not to interfere _in any way_ with slavery in theDistrict of Columbia!

Look at some of the provisions of the Federal Government. See what"SOLEMN GUARANTEES" it gives to the accursed system of slavery, inwhatever State it may be found!

Art. I. , sect. 2, says, "Representatives and direct taxes shall beapportioned among the several States which may be included within thisUnion according to their respective numbers, which shall be determinedby adding to the whole number of free persons, including those bound toserve for a term of years, and excluding Indians not taxed, _three-fifths of all other persons_"--that is to say, _slaves_, foronce called "persons!" Here is a positive premium on slave-holding. This constitutes an aristocracy of the most monstrous character, andintroduces into the social fabric an element as absurd as it isperilous. Talk of the aristocracy of England, and the undue influenceof landed proprietors! You have nothing half so unjust and vicious asthis. Suppose the Southern States have two millions and a half ofslaves: for that amount of property they have one million and a half ofadditional votes; while in the free States there is no propertyrepresentation whatever. Or look at the question in another aspect. Twocitizens have each a capital of 5, 000_l. _ to invest. The one invests inshipping or commerce in New York, and at the time of the election, counts _one_; the other invests in slaves in South Carolina, obtainingfor the sum mentioned a whole gang of 100 human beings of both sexesand of all ages, and at the time of the election he counts_sixty-one_, --swamping with his 100 slaves the votes of sixty-onerespectable merchants in a free State! This it is which has constitutedan aristocracy of about 200, 000 slaveholders in the South, the rulingpower in the United States. It has made the preservation and extensionof slavery the vital and moving principle of the national policy. Sothat ever since 1830 slavery, slave-holding, slave-breeding, andslave-trading have enjoyed the special and fostering care of theFederal Government. As to the _quid pro quo_--the taxation that was tobe connected with the representation of "three-fifths of all otherpersons, " that has been almost entirely evaded. "There has not been, "says a New England Reviewer, "if we mistake not, but in one instance, and then in a very light degree, an assessment of direct taxation. "

Art. I. , sect. 8, says, "Congress shall have power"--among otherthings--"to suppress _insurrections_. " And Art. IV. , sect. 4, says, "The United States shall guarantee to every State in this Union arepublican form of government; and shall protect each of them againstinvasion; and on application of the legislature, or of the executive(when the legislature cannot be convened), against _domesticviolence_. "

These clauses pledge the whole force of the United States' army, andnavy too, if needs be, to the maintenance of slavery in any or in allthe States and Districts in which it may exist. But for this, thesystem could not stand a single day. Let the North say to the South, "We will not interfere with your 'peculiar institution, ' but we willnot defend it; if you cannot keep your slaves in subjection, you mustexpect no aid from us. " Let them only say this, and _do_ nothing, andthe whole fabric of slavery would instantly crumble and fall. Theedifice is rotten, and is propped up only by the buttresses of theNorth. The South retains the slave, because the free States furnish thesentinels. 

Again, Art. IV. , sect. 2, says, "No person held to service or labour inone State, under the laws thereof, escaping into another, shall, inconsequence of any law or regulation therein, be discharged from suchservice or labour; but shall be _delivered up_ on claim of the party towhom such service or labour may be due. "

This clause pledges the North, not only to refuse an asylum to thefugitive slave, but also to deliver him up to his unrighteous and crueltask-master, --a deed which the law of God expressly condemns, and whichthe best impulses of our nature repudiate with loathing and contempt. The article before us constitutes all the free States of the Union aslave-hunting ground for the Southern aristocracy. Talk of the gamelaws of England! Here is a game law infinitely more unjust andoppressive. A free country this! A noble government! Hail Columbia!

See how this slave-holding aristocracy have always managed to oppressthe North, and to secure to themselves the lion's share of the goodthings of government. 

THE PRESIDENCY. --Out of the 16 presidential elections since the originof the Confederation, 13 have been in favour of slave-holders, and only3 in favour of Northern men. By holding the Presidency, slavery rulesthe cabinet, the diplomacy, the army, and the navy of the Union. Thepower that controls the Presidency controls the nation. No NorthernPresident has ever been re-elected. 

THE VICE-PRESIDENCY. --The individual who holds this office is_ex-officio_ President of the Senate, and, as such, has a casting votein all questions before that body. During the last 20 years, with oneexception, this functionary has always been a slave-holder. 

THE OFFICE OF SECRETARY OF STATE. --This is second only in importance tothe Presidency. It is the duty of this officer to direct correspondencewith foreign courts, instruct the foreign ministers, negotiatetreaties, &c. Of the 16 who have hitherto filled that office, 10 havebeen from the slave States, and 6 from the free. 

THE SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. --This officer has theappointment of all committees, and exerts an immense influence on thelegislation of the country. During 31 of the 34 years from 1811 to 1845the Speakers were all slave-holders. 

The slave power, having thus the whole machinery of government underits control, can at any time bring all the resources of the nation tobear upon the preservation and extension of the "peculiar institution. "While Florida, for instance, belonged to Spain, it furnished an asylumfor runaway slaves from the neighbouring States. It must therefore bepurchased by the Union, and five millions of dollars were paid for it. Still the native Indians, those children of the forest, afforded ashelter to fugitives from slavery. They must therefore be eitherexterminated or exiled. A war was waged against them. They were drivenfrom the homes of their fathers, and the negroes among them hunted andshot like wild beasts. At the urgent recommendation of ZacharyTaylor--the person who in March next will doubtless mount thepresidential chair--blood-hounds were purchased as AUXILIARIES to thearmy, at a cost of five thousand dollars; and blood-hounds andsoldiers and officers marched together under the "star-spangled banner"in pursuit of the panting fugitives from Southern oppression. In thisexpedition they captured 460 negroes, each one at the cost of the livesof two white men, and at a further expense of at least eighty thousanddollars per head. The whole outlay of the war was _forty millions ofdollars_, most of which was drawn from the pockets of Northern people. 

The Annexation of Texas and the Mexican War--all for the perpetuationand extension of slavery--are fresh in your remembrance. 

And here I quit the land of "The Bond and the Free. "

 "Nineveh, Babylon, and ancient Rome Speak to the present times, and times to come: They cry aloud in every careless ear, 'Stop, while you may; suspend your mad career; Oh! learn from our example and our fate, -- Learn wisdom and repentance ere too late. '"