AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT

[Illustration:

 Not wholly in the busy world, nor quite Beyond it, blooms the garden that I love

_Tennyson_]

 AMATEUR GARDENCRAFT

 A BOOK FOR THE HOME-MAKER AND GARDEN LOVER

 BY EBEN E. REXFORD

 _WITH 34 ILLUSTRATIONS_

 [Illustration]

 PHILADELPHIA & LONDON J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 1912

 COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

 PUBLISHED FEBRUARY, 1912

 PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. 

FOREWORD

The home that affords the most pleasure to its owner is the one which islargely the result of personal effort in the development of itspossibilities. The "ready-made home, " if I may be allowed theexpression, may be equally as comfortable, from the standpoint ofconvenience, --and possibly a great deal more so, --but it invariablylacks the charm which invests the place that has developed under our ownmanagement, by slow and easy stages, until it seems to have become partof ourselves. 

Home-making is a process of evolution. We take up the work wheneverything connected with it is in a more or less chaotic condition, probably without any definite plan in mind. The initial act in thedirection of development, whatever it may be, suggests almostimmediately something else that can be done to advantage, and in thisway we go on doing little things from day to day, until the time comeswhen we suddenly discover what wonderful things have been accomplishedby our patient and persistent efforts, and we are surprised anddelighted at the result. Were we to plan it all out before beginning it, very likely the undertaking would seem so formidable that it woulddiscourage us. But the evolutionary process takes place so gradually, aswe work hand in hand with that most delightful of all companions, Nature, that work becomes play, and we get more enjoyment out of it, asit goes along, than it is possible to secure in any other way if we arelovers of the beauty that belongs about the ideal home. The man or womanwho sees little or nothing to admire in tree, or shrub, or flower, canhave no conception of the pleasure that grows out of planting theseabout the home--_our_ home--and watching them develop from tiny plant, or seed to the fruition of full maturity. The place casts off thebareness which characterizes the beginning of most homes, by almostimperceptible degrees, until it becomes a thing of beauty that seems tohave been almost a creation of our own, because every nook and corner ofit is vital with the essence of ourselves. Whatever of labor isconnected with the undertaking is that of love which carries with it amost delightful gratification as it progresses. In proportion as weinfuse into it a desire to make the most of any and everything that willattract, and please, and beautify, we reap the reward of our efforts. Happy is the man who can point his friends to a lovely home and say--"Ihave done what I could to make it what it is. _I_ have done it--not theprofessional who goes about the country making what he _calls_ homes atso much a day, or by the job. " The home that somebody has made for usnever appeals to us as does the one into which we _have put ourselves_. Bear that in mind, and be wise, O friend of mine, and be your ownhome-maker. 

Few of us could plan out the Home Beautiful, at the beginning, if wewere to undertake to do so. There may be a mind-picture of it as wethink we would like it to be, but we lack the knowledge by which suchresults as we have in mind are to be secured. Therefore we must becontent to begin in a humble way, and let the work we undertake show uswhat to do next, as it progresses. We may never attain to the degree ofknowledge that would make us successful if we were to set ourselves upas professional gardeners, but it doesn't matter much about that, sincethat is not what we have in mind when we begin the work of home-making. We are simply working by slow and easy steps toward an ideal which wemay never realize, but the ideal is constantly before us to urge us on, and the home-instinct actuates us in all our efforts to make the placein which we live so beautiful that it will have for those we love, andthose who may come after us, a charm that no other place on earth willever have until the time comes when _they_ take up the work ofhome-making _for themselves_. 

[Illustration: PILLAR-TRAINED VINES]

The man or woman who begins the improvement and the beautifying of thehome as a sort of recreation, as so many do, will soon feel the thrillof the delightful occupation, and be inspired to greater undertakingsthan he dreamed of at the beginning. One of the charms of home-making isthat it grows upon you, and before you are aware of it that which wasbegun without a definite purpose in view becomes so delightfullyabsorbing that you find yourself thinking about it in the intervals ofother work, and are impatient to get out among "the green thingsgrowing, " and dig, and plant, and prune, and train. You feel, I fancy, something of the enthusiasm that Adam must have felt when he looked overEden, and saw what great things were waiting to be done in it. I amquite satisfied he saw chances for improvement on every hand. God hadplaced there the material for the first gardener to work with, but Hehad wisely left it for the other to do with it what he thought best, when actuated by the primal instinct which makes gardeners of so many, if not the most, of us when the opportunity to do so comes our way. 

I do not advocate the development of the ęsthetic features of the homefrom the standpoint of dollars and cents. I urge it because I believe itis the _duty_ of the home-owner to make it as pleasant as it can well bemade, and because I believe in the gospel of beauty as much as I believein the gospel of the Bible. It is the religion that appeals to the finerinstincts, and calls out and develops the better impulses of our nature. It is the religion that sees back of every tree, and shrub, and flower, the God that makes all things--the God that plans--the God that expectsus to make the most and the best of all the elements of the good and thebeautiful which He has given into our care. 

In the preparation of this book I have had in mind the fact thatcomparatively few home-owners who set about the improvement of thehome-grounds know what to do, and what to make use of. For the benefitof such persons I have tried to give clear and definite instructionsthat will enable them to work intelligently. I have written frompersonal experience in the various phases of gardening upon which I havetouched in this book. I am quite confident that the information givenwill stand the test of most thorough trial. What I have done with thevarious plants I speak of, others can do if they set about it in theright way, and with the determination of succeeding. The will will findthe way to success. I would not be understood as intending to convey theimpression that I consider my way as _the_ way. By no means. Others haveaccomplished the same results by different methods. I simply tell what Ihave done, and how I have done it, and leave it to the home-maker to begoverned by the results of my experience or that of others who haveworked toward the same end. We may differ in methods, but the outcomeis, in most instances, the same. I have written from the standpoint ofthe amateur, for other amateurs who would make the improvement of thehome-grounds a pleasure and a means of relaxation rather than a sourceof profit in a financial sense, believing that what I have to say willcommend itself to the non-professional gardener as sensible, practical, and helpful, and strictly in line with the things he needs to know whenhe gets down to actual work. 

I have also tried to make it plain that much of which goes to the makingof the home is not out of reach of the man of humble means--that it ispossible for the laboring man to have a home as truly beautiful in thebest sense of the term as the man can have who has any amount of moneyto spend--that it is not the money that we put into it that counts somuch as _the love for it_ and the desire to take advantage of everychance for improvement. Home, for home's sake, is the idea that shouldgovern. Money can hire the work done, but it cannot infuse into theresult the satisfaction that comes to the man who is his own home-maker. 

But not every person who reads this book will be a home-maker in thesense spoken of above. It will come into the hands of those who havehomes about which improvements have already been made by themselves orothers, but who take delight in the cultivation of shrubs and plantsbecause of love for them. Many of these persons get a great deal ofpleasure out of experimenting with them. Others do not care to spendtime in experiments, but would be glad to find a short cut to success. To such this book will make a strong appeal, for I feel confident itwill help them to achieve success in gardening operations that are newto them if they follow the instruction to be found in its pages. I havenot attempted to tell all about gardening, for there is much about itthat I have yet to learn. I expect to keep on learning as long as Ilive, for there is always more and more for us to find out about it. That's one of its charms. But I have sought to impart the fundamentalprinciples of it as I have arrived at a knowledge of them, from manyyears of labor among trees, and shrubs, and flowers--a labor oflove--and it is with a sincere hope that I have not failed in my purposethat I give this book to

 THE HOME-MAKER AND THE GARDEN-LOVER. 

 THE AUTHOR. 

 CONTENTS

 PAGE

 THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE OF IT 17

 PLANTING THE LAWN 34

 SHRUBS 49

 VINES 68

 THE HARDY BORDER 81

 THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS 97

 THE BULB GARDEN 116

 THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE 128

 THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER 149

 THE DAHLIA 156

 THE GLADIOLUS 166

 LILIES 172

 PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 176

 ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN FEATURES 189

 CARPET-BEDDING 205

 FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND WALKS 216

 PLANNING THE GARDEN 223

 THE BACK-YARD GARDEN 220

 THE WILD GARDEN 234

 THE WINTER GARDEN 243

 WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES 250

 SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN 257

 SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN 264

 FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN 268

 BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT 272

 ILLUSTRATIONS

 PAGE

 "NOT WHOLLY IN THE BUSY WORLD, NOR QUITE BEYOND IT, BLOOMS THE GARDEN THAT I LOVE" _Frontispiece_

 PILLAR-TRAINED VINES 8

 IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE 34

 A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER 37

 SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY 44

 SNOWBALL 57

 AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS 60

 HONEYSUCKLE 73

 JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL 75

 SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER 83

 OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS 88

 THE PEONY AT ITS BEST 90

 A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS 92

 A BED OF ASTERS 106

 BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES 125

 HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE 130

 ROSE TRELLIS 136

 RAMBLER ROSES 142

 DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE--THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS 145

 TEA ROSE 152

 CACTUS DAHLIA 160

 A GARDEN GLIMPSE 170

 AURATUM LILY 174

 THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER 180

 SUMMER HOUSE 191

 A PERGOLA SUGGESTION 195

 A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK 198

 GARDENER'S TOOL-HOUSE 200

 A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX 220

 IN SUMMER 224

 IN WINTER 224

 PORCH BOX 238

 PORCH BOX 254

 PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS 272

The Illustrations are reproduced from photographs by J. F. Murray. 

 * * * * *

THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE IT AND HOW TO TAKE CARE OF IT

The owner of the average small home seldom goes to the expense ofemploying the professional gardener to do the work of lawn-making. Sometimes he cannot afford to do so. Sometimes skilled labor is notobtainable. The consequence is, in the majority of cases, the lawn, --orwhat, by courtesy, is called by that name, --is a sort of evolution whichis an improvement on the original conditions surrounding the home, butwhich never reaches a satisfactory stage. We see such lawnseverywhere--rough, uneven, bare in spots, anything but attractive in ageneral way, and but little better than the yard which has been given noattention, were it not for the shrubs and plants that have been set outin them. The probabilities are that if you ask the owner of such a placewhy he has no lawn worth the name, he will give one or the other of thereasons I have made mention of above as his excuse for the existingcondition of things about the home. If you ask him why he has notundertaken the work himself, he will most likely answer that he lacksthe knowledge necessary to the making of a fine lawn, and rather thanexperiment with it he has chosen to let it alone. 

Now the fact is--lawn-making has nothing mysterious about it, as so manyseem to think. It does not call for skilled labor. It need not be anexpensive undertaking. Any man who owns a home that he desires to makethe most of can make himself a lawn that will be quite as satisfactory, in nearly every instance, as the one made by the professionalgardener--more so, in fact, since what we make for ourselves weappreciate much more than that which we hire made for us. The object ofthis paper is to assist home-makers in doing just this kind of work. Ishall endeavor to make it so plain and practical that anyone so inclinedcan do all that needs doing in a satisfactory manner. It may not havethat nicety of finish, when completed, that characterizes the work ofthe professional, but it will harmonize with its surroundings moreperfectly, perhaps, and will afford us quite as much pleasure as thework of the expert. 

If the house has just been built, very likely everything about it is ina more or less chaotic condition. Odds and ends of lumber, mortar, brick, and all kinds of miscellaneous building material scattered allover the place, the ground uneven, treeless, shrubless, and utterlylacking in all the elements that go to make a place pleasing andattractive. Out of this chaos order must be evolved, and the evolutionmay be satisfactory in every way--if we only begin right. 

The first thing to do is to clear away all the rubbish that clutters upthe place. Do not make the mistake of dumping bits of wood into hollowswith the idea that you are making a good foundation for a lawn-surface. This wood will decay in a year or two, and there will be a depressionthere. Fill into the low places only such matter as will retain itsoriginal proportions, like brick and stone. Make kindling-wood of therubbish from lumber, or burn it. Get rid of it in some way before youbegin operations. What you want, at this stage of the proceedings, is aground entirely free from anything that will interfere with grading thesurface of it. 

If the lot upon which the house stands is a comparatively level one--orrather, was, before the house was built--it is generally easy to securea slope from the house on all sides, by filling in about the buildingwith the soil thrown up from the cellar or in making excavation for thewalls. If no excavation of any kind has been made--and quite often, nowadays, foundation walls are built _on_ the ground instead of startinga foot or two below the surface, --a method never to be advised becauseof the risk of injury to the building from the action of frost in thesoil, --it may be necessary to make the lot evenly level, unless one goesto the expense of filling in. A slight slope away from the house-wallsis always desirable, as it adds vastly to the general effect. Enoughsoil to secure this slope will not cost a great deal, if it does nothappen to be at hand, and one will never regret the outlay. 

If the ground is very uneven, it is well to have it ploughed, andafterward harrowed to pulverize the soil and secure a comparativelylevel surface. Do not be satisfied with one harrowing. Go over it againand again until not a lump or clod remains in it. The finer the soil isbefore seed is sown the better will be the sward you grow on it. 

If the surface of the yard is _not_ uneven, all the grading necessarycan be done by spading up the soil to the depth of a foot, and thenworking it over thoroughly with, first, a heavy hoe to break apart thelumps, and then an iron rake to pulverize it. 

I say nothing about drainage because not one lot-owner in a hundred canbe prevailed on to go to the trouble and expense of arranging for it. IfI were to devote a dozen pages to this phase of the work, urging that itbe given careful attention, my advice would be ignored. The matter ofdrainage frightens the home-maker out of undertaking the improvement ofthe yard, nine times out of ten, if you urge its importance upon him. Ifthe location is a rather low one, however, it is a matter that ought notto be overlooked, but it is not so important if the lot is high enoughfor water to run off speedily after a shower. If any system of drainage_is_ arranged for, I would advise turning the work over to theprofessionals, who thoroughly understand what ought to be done and howto do it. This is a matter in which the amateur must work to adisadvantage when he undertakes to do it for himself. 

If there are hollows and depressions, fill them by levelling littlehummocks which may be found on other parts of the ground, or by havingsoil drawn in from outside. In filling low places, beat the soil downsolidly as you add it. Unless this is done--and done well--the soil youadd will settle, after a little, and the result will be adepression--not as deep as the original one, of course, but still adepression that will make a low place that will be very noticeable. Butby packing and pounding down the earth as you fill it in, it can be madeas solid as the soil surrounding it, and in this way all present andfuture unevenness of the soil can be done away with. It is attention tosuch details as these that makes a success of the work, and I would urgeupon the amateur lawn-maker the absolute necessity of working slowly andcarefully, and slighting nothing. Undue haste and the lack ofthoroughness will result in a slovenly job that you will be ashamed of, before it is done, and so disgusted with, on completion, that you willnot feel like doing the work over again for fear another effort may bemore unsatisfactory than the first one. Therefore do good work in everyrespect as you go along, and the work you do will be its own reward whendone. 

It is impossible to put too much work on the soil. That is--you cannotmake it too fine and mellow. The finer it is the finer the sward willbe. A coarse, lumpy soil will always make an unsatisfactorylawn-surface. 

Most soils will need the addition of considerable manure, and poor oneswill need a good deal. To secure a strong, luxuriant stand of grass itis very essential that it should be fed well. While grass will growalmost anywhere, it is only on rich soils that you see it in perfection, and the ideal lawn demands a sward as nearly perfect as possible. 

But I would not advise the use of barnyard manure, for this reason: Itcontains the seeds of the very weeds you must keep out of your lawn ifyou would have it what it ought to be, --weeds that will eventually ruineverything if not got rid of, like Dandelion, Burdock, and Thistle, tosay nothing of the smaller plants that are harder to fight than those Ihave made mention of. We cannot be too careful in guarding against thesetrespassers which can be _kept_ out much easier than they can be put torout after they have secured a foothold. Therefore I would urge thesubstitution of a commercial fertilizer for barnyard manure in everyinstance. Scatter it liberally over the soil as soon as spaded, orploughed, and work it in with the harrow or the hoe or rake, when youare doing the work of pulverization. 

If you do not understand just what kind of fertilizer to make use of, tell the dealer as nearly as you can the nature of the soil you proposeto use it on, and he will doubtless be able to supply you with thearticle you require. It is always safe to trust to the judgment of theman who knows just what a fertilizer will do, as to the kind andquantity to make use of. Soils differ so widely that it is not possibleto advise a fertilizer that will give satisfaction everywhere. Thisbeing the case, I advise you to consult local authorities who understandthe adaptation of fertilizers to soils before making a choice. 

April is a good month in which to seed the lawn. So is May, for thatmatter, but the sooner the grass gets a start the better, for earlystarting will put it in better condition to withstand the effects ofmidsummer heat because it will have more and stronger roots thanlater-sown grass can have by the time a demand is made upon itsvitality. 

Sowing lawn-grass seed evenly is an undertaking that most amateurs failin. The seed is light as chaff, and every puff of wind, no matter howlight, will carry it far and wide. Choose a still day, if possible, forsowing, and cross-sow. That is--sow from north to south, and then fromeast to west. In this way you will probably be able to get the seedquite evenly distributed. Hold the hand close to the ground, filledwith seed, and then, as you make a circular motion from right to left, and back again, let the seed slip from between your fingers as evenly aspossible. A little experimenting along this line will enable you to doquite satisfactory work. You may use up a good deal of seed inexperimenting, but that will not matter. One common mistake inlawn-making is to use too little seed. A thinly-seeded lawn will notgive you a good sward the first season, but a thickly-seeded one will. In fact, it will have that velvety look which is one of the chief charmsof any lawn, after its first mowing. I would advise you to tell thedealer of whom you purchase seed the size of your lot, and let himdecide on the quantity of seed required to make a good job of it. 

In buying seed get only the very best on the market. But only ofreliable dealers. By "reliable dealers" I mean such firms as haveestablished a reputation for honesty and fair dealing all along theline. Such dealers have to live up to their reputations, and they willnot work off upon you an inferior article as the dealer who has, as yet, no reputation to live up to may, and often does, charging you for it aprice equal to, or beyond, that which the honest dealer would ask forhis superior grade of seed. In order to have a fine sward it isabsolutely necessary that you must have good seed. Cheap seed--and thatmeans _poor_ seed, _always_--does not contain the varieties of grassesnecessary to the making of a rich, deep, velvety sward, and it almostalways _does_ contain the seeds of noxious weeds which will make yourlawn a failure. Therefore patronize the dealers in whose honesty youhave ample reason to have entire confidence, and buy the very best seedthey have in stock. 

After sowing, roll the surface of the lawn to imbed the seed in thesoil, and make the ground firm enough about it to retain sufficientmoisture to insure germination. In three or four days the tiny bladesought to begin to show. In a week the surface will seem covered with agreen mist, and in a fortnight's time you will be able to see, with alittle exercise of the imagination, the kind of lawn you are going tohave. If the season is a dry one it may be well to sprinkle the soilevery day, after sundown. Use water liberally, and keep on doing sountil rain comes or the plants have taken hold of the moister soil belowwith their delicate feeding-roots. 

I would not advise mowing until the grass is at least three inches high. Then clip lightly with a sharp-bladed mower. Just cut away the top ofthe grass. To mow close, while the grass is getting a start, is theworst thing you can do. When it begins to thicken up by stooling out, then, and not _till_ then, will you be warranted in setting the mower sothat it will cut closely. But never _shear_ the sward, as some do. Youwill never have a turf like velvet if you do that. Let there be an inchand a half or two inches of the grass-blade left. 

The importance of having good tools to work with, in taking care of thelawn, ought not to be overlooked. A mower whose blades are dull will_tear_ the grass off, and make it look ragged, as if gnawed away byanimals feeding on it, while the mower whose blades are of the propersharpness will cut it as evenly and as neatly as if a razor had beenapplied to it. You cannot appreciate the difference until you have seena specimen of each, and compared them. 

Some persons advocate raking the lawn after each mowing. Others adviseleaving the clippings to act as a sort of mulch. If the clippings areallowed to remain, they wilt, and this will detract from the appearanceof the sward for a short time, but by the next day they will not benoticeable. Raking as soon as mowed makes the lawn more immediatelypresentable. I have never been able to see any great deal of differencein the two methods, except as to appearance, therefore I would advisethe lawn-owner to try both methods and adopt the one that pleases himmost. If a rake is used, let it be one with blunt teeth that will nottear the sward. There is such a rake on the market, its teeth being madeof bent wire. On no account use a sharp-toothed iron rake. That is sureto injure the sward. 

Be regular in your attention to the lawn. Do not let the grass get sotall that the mower will not do a good job in cutting it. Thisnecessitates mowing at regular intervals. If you mow only once a week, Iwould advise the use of the rake, as long grass-clippings are alwaysunsightly because they remain on top of the sward, while short clippingsfrom frequent mowing sink into it, and are soon out of sight. 

In case the lawn is neglected for a week or more, once going over itwith the mower will not make it very presentable. Mow, and then rake, and then go over it again, cutting _across_ the first swaths. The secondcutting will result in an even surface, but it will not be assatisfactory as that secured by _regular_ mowings, at intervals of twoor three days. 

It is a most excellent plan to scatter bonemeal over the surface of thelawn in midsummer, and again in fall. Use the fine meal, as the coarsearticle is not readily assimilated by the soil. There is little dangerof using enough to injure the sward. Injury generally results from notusing any. 

Many lawn-owners, with a mistaken idea of neatness, rake up the leavesthat scatter themselves over the sward in fall, thus removing theprotection that Nature has provided for the grass. Do not do this. Allowthem to remain all winter. They will be entirely hidden by the snow, ifany falls, and if there is none they are not unsightly, when you ceaseto think of them as litter. You will appreciate the difference between afall-raked lawn and one on which leaves have been allowed to remain overwinter, when spring comes. The lawn without protection will have abrown, scorched look, while the other will begin to show varying tintsof green as soon as the snow melts. Grass is hardy, and requires noprotection to prevent winter-killing, but a covering, though slight, saves enough of its vitality to make it well worth while to provide it. 

The ideal lawn is one in which no weeds are found. But I have never seensuch a lawn, and never expect to. It is possible to keep weeds fromshowing much if one has a thick, fine sward, but keen eyes will discoverthem without much trouble. Regular and careful mowings will keep themwithin bounds, and when the leaves of large-foliaged plants like theBurdock and Thistle are not allowed to develop they do not do a greatdeal of harm except in the drain they make upon the soil. Generally, after repeated discouragements of their efforts to assert themselves, they pine away and finally disappear. But there will be others alwayscoming to take their places, especially in the country, and theirkindred growing in the pastures and by the roadside will ripen seed eachseason to be scattered broadcast by the wind. This being the case, theimpossibility of entirely freeing a lawn from weeds by uprooting them orcutting them off will be readily apparent. One would have to spend allhis time in warfare against them, on even a small lawn, if he were toset out to keep them from growing there. Therefore about all one can doto prevent large weeds from becoming unsightly is to constantly curbtheir aspirations by mowing them down as soon as they reach a givenheight. 

The Dandelion and the Plantain are probably the worst pests of all, because their seeds fill the air when they ripen, and settle here, there, and everywhere, and wherever they come in contact with the groundthey germinate, and a colony of young plants establishes itself. Becausethe Burdock and Thistle attempt to develop an up-reaching top it is aneasy matter to keep them down by mowing, but the Dandelion and Plantainhug the soil so closely that the mower slips over them without coming incontact with their crowns, and so they live on, and on, and spread by amultiplication of their roots until they often gain entire possession ofthe soil, in spots. When this happens, the best thing to do is to spadeup the patch, and rake every weed-root out of it, and then reseed it. Ifthis is done early in spring the newly-seeded place will not benoticeable by midsummer. 

We frequently see weed-killers advertised in the catalogues of theflorist. Most, if not all, of them will do all that is claimed for them, but--they will do just as deadly work on the grass, if they get to it, as they do on the weed, therefore they are of no practical use, as it isimpossible to apply them to weeds without their coming in contact withthe sward. 

Ants often do great damage to the lawn by burrowing under the sward andthrowing up great hummocks of loose soil, thus killing out largepatches of grass where they come to the surface. It is a somewhatdifficult matter to dislodge them, but it can sometimes be done bycovering the places where they work with powdered borax to the depth ofhalf an inch, and then applying water to carry it down into the soil. Repeat the operation if necessary. Florists advertise liquids which areclaimed to do this work effectively, but I have had no occasion to testthem, as the borax application has never failed to rout the ant on mylawn, and when I find a remedy that does its work well I depend upon it, rather than experiment with something of whose merits I know nothing. "Prove all things and hold fast to that which is good. "

Fighting the ant is an easier matter than exterminating weeds, asant-hills are generally localized, and it is possible to get at themwithout injuring a large amount of sward as one cannot help doing whenhe applies liquids to weeds. The probabilities are, however, that antscannot be entirely driven away from the lawn after they have takenpossession of it. They will shift their quarters and begin againelsewhere. But you can keep them on the run by repeated applications ofwhatever proves obnoxious to them, and in this way you can preventtheir doing a great deal of harm. To be successful in this you will haveto be constantly on the lookout for them, and so prompt in the use ofthe weapons you employ against them that they are prevented frombecoming thoroughly established in new quarters. 

PLANTING THE LAWN

When the lawn is made we begin to puzzle over the planting of trees andshrubbery. 

What shall we have?

Where shall we have it?

One of the commonest mistakes made by the man who is his own gardener isthat of over-planting the home-grounds with trees and shrubs. Thismistake is made because he does not look ahead and see, with the mind'seye, what the result will be, a few years from now, of the work he doesto-day. 

[Illustration: IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE]

The sapling of to-day will in a short time become a tree of good size, and the bush that seems hardly worth considering at present will developinto a shrub three, four, perhaps six feet across. If we plant closely, as we are all inclined to because of the small size of the material weuse at planting time, we will soon have a thicket, and it will benecessary to sacrifice most of the shrubs in order to give the few weleave sufficient room to develop in. Therefore do not think, when youset out plants, of their _present_ size, but of the size they will haveattained to five or six years from now. Do not aim at immediate effect, as most of us do in our impatience for results. Be content to_plant_--and _wait_. I shall give no diagrams for lawn-planting for tworeasons. The first one is--no two places are exactly alike, and adiagram prepared for one would have to be so modified in order to adaptit to the needs of the other that it would be of little value, save inthe way of suggestion, and I think suggestions of a general character_without the diagram_ will be found most satisfactory. The second reasonis--few persons would care to duplicate the grounds of his neighbor, andthis he would be obliged to do if diagrams were depended on. Therefore Iadvise each home-owner to plant his lawn after plans of his ownpreparation, after having given careful consideration to the matter. Look about you. Visit the lawns your neighbors have made, and discoverwherein they have made mistakes. Note wherein they have been successful. And then profit by their experience, be it that of success or failure. 

Do not make the mistake of planting trees and shrubs in front of thehouse, or between it and the street. Place them somewhere to the side, or the rear, and leave a clear, open sweep of lawn in front of thedwelling. Enough unbroken space should be left there to give the senseof breadth which will act as a division between the public and theprivate. Scatter shrubs and flower-beds over the lawn and you destroythat impression of distance which is given by even a small lawn whenthere is nothing on it to interfere with the vision, as we look acrossit. 

Relegate shrubs to the sides of the lot, if you can conveniently do so, being careful to give the larger ones locations at the point farthestfrom the street, graduating them toward the front of the lot accordingto their habit of growth. Aim to secure a background by keeping the bigfellows where they cannot interfere with the outlook of the little ones. 

If paths are to be made, think well before deciding where they shall be. Some persons prefer a straight path from the street to the house. Thissaves steps, but it gives the place a prim and formal look that is neverpleasing. It divides the yard into two sections of equal importance, where it is advisable to have but one if we would make the most ofthings. In other words, it halves things, thus weakening the generaleffect greatly. A straight path is never a graceful one. A curvingpath will make you a few more steps, but so much will be gained by it, in beauty, that I feel sure you will congratulate yourself on havingchosen it, after you have compared it with the straight path of yourneighbor. It will allow you to leave the greater share of the small lawnintact, thus securing the impression of breadth that is so necessary tothe best effect. 

[Illustration: A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER]

I have spoken of planting shrubs at the sides of the home-lot. If thisis done, we secure a sort of frame for the home-picture that will beextremely pleasing. If the shrubs near the street are small and low, andthose beyond them increase in breadth and height as they approach therear of the lot, with evergreens or trees as a background for thedwelling, the effect will be delightful. Such a general plan of plantingthe home-grounds is easily carried out. The most important feature of itto keep in mind is that of locating your plants in positions that willgive each one a chance to display its charms to the best effect, andthis you can easily do if you read the catalogues and familiarizeyourself with the heights and habits of them. 

If your lot adjoins that of a neighbor who has not yet improved hishome-grounds, I would advise consulting with him, and forming apartnership in improvement-work, if possible. If you proceed after aplan of your own on your side of the fence, and he does the same on hisside, there may be a sad lack of harmony in the result. But _if_ youtalk the matter over together the chances are that you can formulate aplan that will be entirely satisfactory to both parties, and result inthat harmony which is absolutely necessary to effective work. Because, you see, both will be working together toward a definite design, whilewithout such a partnership of interests each would be workingindependently, and your ideas of the fitness of things might be sadly atvariance with those of your neighbor. 

Never set your plants in rows. Nature never does that, and she doesn'tmake any mistakes. If you want an object-lesson in arrangement, go intothe fields and pastures, and along the road, and note how she hasarranged the shrubs she has planted there. Here a group, there a group, in a manner that seems to have had no plan back of it, and yet I feelquite sure she planned out very carefully every one of these clumps andcombinations. The closer you study Nature's methods and pattern afterthem the nearer you will come to success. 

Avoid formality as you would the plague if you want your garden toafford you all the pleasure you can get out of it. Nature's methods arealways restful in effect because they are so simple and direct. Theynever seem premeditated. Her plants "just grow, " like the Topsy of Mrs. Stowe's book, and no one seems to have given any thought to the matter. But in order to successfully imitate Nature it is absolutely necessarythat we familiarize ourselves, as I have said, with her ways of doingthings, and we can only do this by studying from her books as she opensthem for us in every field, and by the roadside, and the woodland nook. The secret of success, in a word, lies in getting so close to the heartof Nature that she will take us into her confidence and tell us some ofher secrets. 

One of the best trees for the small lawn is the Cut-Leaved Birch. Itgrows rapidly, is always attractive, and does not outgrow the limit ofthe ordinary lot. Its habit is grace itself. Its white-barked trunk, slender, pendant branches, and finely-cut foliage never fail tochallenge admiration. In fall it takes on a coloring of pale gold, andis more attractive than ever. In winter its delicate branches showagainst a background of blue sky with all the delicacy and distinctnessof an etching. No tree that I know of is hardier. 

The Mountain Ash deserves a place on all lawns, large or small. Itsfoliage is very attractive, as are its great clusters of white flowersin spring. When its fruit ripens, the tree is as showy as anything canwell be. And, like the Cut-Leaved Birch, it is ironclad in itshardiness. It is an almost ideal tree for small places. 

The Japanese Maples are beautiful trees, of medium size, very gracefulin habit, and rapid growers. While not as desirable for a street tree asour native Maple, they will give better satisfaction on the lawn. 

The Purple-Leaved Beech is exceedingly showy, and deserves a place onevery lawn, large or small. In spring its foliage is a deep purple. Insummer it takes on a crimson tinge, and in fall it colors up likebronze. It branches close to the ground, and should never be pruned toform a head several feet from the ground, like most other trees. Suchtreatment will mar, if not spoil, the attractiveness of it. 

Betchel's Crab, which grows to be of medium size, is one of theloveliest things imaginable when in bloom. Its flowers, which aredouble, are of a delicate pink, with a most delicious fragrance. 

The White-Flowering Dogwood (_Cornus florida_) will give excellentresults wherever planted. Its white blossoms are produced in greatabundance early in spring--before its leaves are out, in fact--and lastfor a long time. Its foliage is a gray-green, glossy and handsome insummer, and in fall a deep, rich red, making it a wonderfully attractiveobject at that season. 

The Judas Tree (Redbud) never grows to be large. Its lovely pinkblossoms appear in spring before its heart-shaped leaves are developed. Very desirable. 

Salisburia (Maiden-Hair). This is an elegant little tree from Japan. Itsfoliage is almost fern-like in its delicacy. It is a free grower, and inevery respect desirable. 

Among our larger trees that are well adapted to use about the house, theElm is the most graceful. It is the poet of the forest, with itswide-spreading, drooping branches, its beautiful foliage, and grace inevery aspect of its stately form. 

As a street-tree the Maple is unexcelled. It is of rapid growth, entirely hardy anywhere at the north, requires very little attention inthe way of pruning, is never troubled by insects, and has the merit ofgreat cleanliness. It is equally valuable for the lawn. In fall, itchanges its summer-green for purest gold, and is a thing of beautyuntil it loses its last leaf. 

The Laurel-Leaved Willow is very desirable where quick results arewanted. Its branches frequently make a growth of five and six feet in aseason. Its leaves are shaped like those of the European Laurel, --henceits specific name, --with a glossy, dark-green surface. It is probablythe most rapid grower of all desirable lawn trees. Planted along theroadside it will be found far more satisfactory than the Lombardy Poplarwhich is grown so extensively, but which is never pleasing after thefirst few years of its life, because of its habit of dying off at thetop. 

The Box Elder (Ash-Leaved Maple) is another tree of very rapid growth. It has handsome light-green foliage, and a head of spreading andirregular shape when left to its own devices, but it can be made intoquite a dignified tree with a little attention in the way of pruning. Ilike it best, however, when allowed to train itself, though this wouldnot be satisfactory where the tree is planted along the street. It willgrow anywhere, is hardy enough to stand the severest climate, and is ofsuch rapid development that the first thing you know the little saplingyou set out is large enough to bear seed. 

I like the idea of giving each home a background of evergreens. This fortwo reasons--to bring out the distinctive features of the place moreeffectively than it is possible to without such a background, and toserve as a wind-break. If planted at the rear of the house, they answeran excellent purpose in shutting away the view of buildings that areseldom sightly. The best variety for home-use, all things considered, isthe Norway Spruce. This grows to be a stately tree of pyramidal habit, perfect in form, with heavy, slightly pendulous branches from the groundup. Never touch it with the pruning-shears unless you want to spoil it. The Colorado Blue Spruce is another excellent variety for generalplanting, with rich, blue-green foliage. It is a free-grower, andperfectly hardy. The Douglas Spruce has foliage somewhat resembling thatof the Hemlock. Its habit of growth is that of a cone, with light andgraceful spreading branches that give it a much more open and airyeffect than is found in other Spruces. The Hemlock Spruce is a mostdesirable variety for lawn use where a single specimen is wanted. Giveit plenty of room in which to stretch out its slender, graceful branchesand I think it will please you more than any other evergreen you canselect. 

It must not be inferred that the list of trees of which mention has beenmade includes _all_ that are desirable for planting about the home. There are others of great merit, and many might prefer them to the kindsI have spoken of. I have made special mention of these because I knowthey will prove satisfactory under such conditions as ordinarily prevailabout the home, therefore they are the kinds I would advise the amateurgardener to select in order to attain the highest degree of success. Give them good soil to grow in, and they will ask very little from youin the way of attention. They are trees that anybody can grow, thereforetrees for everybody. 

In planting a tree care must be taken to get it as deep in the ground asit was before it was taken from the nursery. If a little deeper no harmwill be done. 

Make the hole in which it is to be planted so large that all its rootscan be spread out evenly and naturally. 

Before putting it in place, go over its roots and cut off the ends ofall that were severed in taking it up. Use a sharp knife in doing this, and make a clean, smooth cut. A callus will form readily if this isdone, but not if the ends of the large roots are left in a ragged, mutilated condition. 

[Illustration: SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY]

When the trees are received from the nursery they will be wrapped inmoss and straw, with burlap about the roots. Do not unpack them untilyou are ready to plant them. If you cannot do this as soon as they arereceived, put them in the cellar or some other cool, shady place, andpour a pailful of water over the wrapping about the roots. Never unpackthem and leave their roots exposed to the air for any length of time. Ifthey must be unpacked before planting, cover their roots with damp moss, wet burlap, old carpet, or blankets, --anything that will protect themfrom the air and from drying out. But--get them into the ground as soonas possible. 

When the tree is in the hole made for it, cover the roots with finesoil, and then settle this down among the roots by jarring the trunk, orby churning the tree up and down carefully. After doing this, andsecuring a covering for all the roots, apply a pailful or two of waterto firm the soil well. I find this more effective than firming the soilwith the foot, as it prevents the possibility of loose planting. 

Then fill the hole with soil, and apply three or four inches of coarsemanure from the barnyard to serve as a mulch. This keeps the soil moist, which is an important item, especially if the season happens to be adry one. If barnyard manure is not obtainable, use leaves, orgrass-clippings--anything that will shade the soil and retain moisturewell. 

Where shall we plant our trees?

This question is one that we often find it difficult to answer, becausewe are not familiar enough with them to know much about the effect theywill give after a few years' development. Before deciding on a locationfor them I would advise the home-maker to look about him until he findsplaces where the kinds he proposes to use are growing. Then study theeffect that is given by them under conditions similar to those whichprevail on your own grounds. Make a mental transfer of them to the placein which you intend to use them. This you can do with the exercise of alittle imagination. When you see them growing on your own grounds, asyou can with the mind's eye, you can tell pretty nearly where they oughtto be planted. You will get more benefit from object-lessons of thiskind than from books. 

On small grounds I would advise keeping them well to the sides of thehouse. If any are planted in front of the house they will be moresatisfactory if placed nearer the street than the house. They shouldnever be near enough to the dwelling to shade it. Sunshine about thehouse is necessary to health as well as cheerfulness. 

Trees back of the dwelling are always pleasing. Under no circumstancesplant them in prim rows, or just so many feet apart. This applies to allgrounds, large or small, immediately about the house. But if the placeis large enough to admit of a driveway, a row of evergreens on each sideof it can be made an attractive feature. 

The reader will understand from what I have said that no hard-and-fastrules as to where to plant one's trees can be laid down, because of thewide difference of conditions under which the planting must be made. Each home-owner must decide this matter for himself, but I would urgethat no decision be made without first familiarizing yourself with theeffect of whatever trees you select as you can see them growing on thegrounds of your neighbors. 

Do not make the mistake of planting so thickly that a jungle will resultafter a few years. In order to do itself justice, each tree must havespace enough about it, on all sides, to enable it to display its charmsfully. This no tree can do when crowded in among others. One or two finelarge trees with plenty of elbow-room about them will afford vastlymore satisfaction than a dozen trees that dispute the space with eachother. Here again is proof of what I have said many times in this book, that quality is what pleases rather than quantity. 

If any trees are planted in front of the house, choose kinds having ahigh head, so that there will be no obstruction of the outlook from thedwelling. 

SHRUBS

Every yard ought to have its quota of shrubs. They give to it a charmwhich nothing else in the plant-line can supply, because they have agreater dignity than the perennial and the annual plant, on account ofsize, and the fact that they are good for many years, with very littlecare, recommends them to the home-maker who cannot give a great deal ofattention to the garden and the home-grounds. It hardly seems necessaryto say anything about their beauty. That is one of the things that "goeswithout saying, " among those who see, each spring, the glory of theLilacs and the Spireas, and other shrubs which find a place in"everybody's garden. " On very small ground the larger-growing shrubstake the place of trees quite satisfactorily. Indeed, they arepreferable there, because they are not likely to outgrow the limitsassigned them, as trees will in time, and they do not make shade enoughto bring about the unsanitary conditions which are almost always foundto exist in small places where trees, planted too thickly at first, havemade a strong development. Shade is a pleasing feature of a place insummer, but there is such a thing as having too much of it. Wefrequently see places in which the dwelling is almost entirely hidden bya thicket of trees, and examination will be pretty sure to show that thehouse is damp, and the occupants of it unhealthy. Look at the roof andyou will be quite sure to find the shingles covered with green moss. Theonly remedy for such a condition of things is the thinning out orremoval of some of the trees, and the admission of sunlight. Shrubs cannever be charged with producing such a state of things, hence mypreference for them on lots where there is not much room. Vines can beused upon the walls of the dwelling and about the verandas and porchesin such a way as to give all the shade that is needed, and, with a fewreally fine specimens of shrubs scattered about the grounds, trees willnot be likely to be missed much. 

I would not be understood as discouraging the planting of trees ongrounds where there is ample space for their development. A fine tree isone of the most beautiful things in the world, but it must be given agood deal of room, and that is just what cannot be done on the smallcity or village lot. Another argument in favor of shrubs is--they willbe in their prime a few years after planting, while a tree must haveyears to grow in. And a shrub generally affords considerable pleasurefrom the start, as it will bloom when very small. Many of them bloom thefirst season. 

In locating shrubs do not make the mistake of putting them between thehouse and the street, unless for the express purpose of shutting outsomething unsightly either of buildings or thoroughfare. A small lawnloses its dignity when broken up by trees, shrubs, or flower-beds. Leftto itself it imparts a sense of breadth and distance which will make itseem larger than it really is. Plant things all over it and this effectis destroyed. I have said this same thing in other chapters of thisbook, and I repeat it with a desire to so impress the fact upon the mindof the home-maker that he cannot forget it, and make the common mistakeof locating his shrubbery or his flower-gardens in the front yard. 

The best location for shrubs on small lots is that which I have advisedfor hardy plants--along the sides of the lot, or at the rear of it, farenough away from the dwelling, if space will permit, to serve as abackground for it. Of course no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down, because lots differ so widely in size and shape, and the houses we buildon them are seldom found twice in the same place. I am simply advisingin a general way, and the advice will have to be modified to suit theconditions which exist about each home. 

Do not set your shrubs out after any formal fashion--just so far apart, and in straight rows--as so many do. Formality should be avoidedwhenever possible. 

I think you will find the majority of them most satisfactory whengrouped. That is, several of a kind--or at least of kinds that harmonizein general effect--planted so close together that, when well developed, they form one large mass of branches and foliage. I do not mean, bythis, that they should be crowded. Give each one ample space to developin, but let them be near enough to touch, after a little. 

If it is proposed to use different kinds in groups, one must make surethat he understand the habit of each, or results will be likely to bemost unsatisfactory. The larger-growing kinds must be given the centreor the rear of the group, with smaller kinds at the sides, or in front. The season of flowering and the peculiarities of branch and foliageshould also be given due consideration. If we were to plant a Lilac withits stiff and rather formal habit among a lot of Spireas, all slendergrace and delicate foliage, the effect would be far from pleasing. Thetwo shrubs have nothing in common, except beauty, and that is sodissimilar that it cannot be made to harmonize. There must be a generalharmony. This does not mean that there may not be plenty of contrast. Contrast and harmony are not contradictory terms, as some may think. 

Therefore read up in the catalogues about the shrubs you propose to makeuse of before you give them a permanent place in the yard. 

Also, take a look ahead. 

The plant you procure from the nursery will be small. So small, indeed, that if you leave eight or ten feet between it and the next one you setout, it will look so lonesome that it excites your pity, and you may beinduced to plant another in the unfilled space to keep it company. Butin doing this you will be making a great mistake. Three or four yearsfrom now the bushes will have run together to such an extent that eachplant has lost its individuality. There will be a thicket of brancheswhich will constantly interfere with each other's well being, andprevent healthy development. If you take the look ahead which I haveadvised, you will anticipate the development of the shrub, and plant forthe future rather than the immediate present. Be content to let thegrounds look rather naked for a time. Three or four years will remedythat defect. You can plant perennials and annuals between them, temporarily, if you want the space filled. It will be understood thatwhat has been said in this paragraph applies to _different kinds_ ofshrubs set as single specimens, and not to those planted on the"grouping" system. 

In planting shrubs, the rule given for trees applies quite fully. Havethe hole for them large enough to admit of spreading out their rootsnaturally. You can tell about this by setting the shrub down upon theground after unwrapping it, and watching the way in which it disposes ofits roots. They will spread out on all sides as they did before theplant was taken from the ground. This is what they should be allowed todo in their new quarters. Many persons dig what resembles a post-holemore than anything else, and crowd the roots of the shrub into it, without making any effort to loosen or straighten them out, dump in somelumpy soil, trample it down roughly, and call the work done. Done itis, after a fashion, but those who love the plants they set out--thosewho want fine shrubs and expect them to grow well from thebeginning--never plant in that way. Spread the roots out on all sides, cover them with fine, mellow soil, settle this into compactness with aliberal application of water, then fill up the hole, and cover thesurface with a mulch of some kind. Treated in this way not one shrub ina hundred will fail to grow, if it has good roots. What was said aboutcutting off the ends on injured roots, in the chapter on planting trees, applies with equal pertinence here. Also, about keeping the rootscovered until you are ready to put the plant into the ground. A shrub isa tree on a small scale, and should receive the same kind of treatmentso far as planting goes. These instructions may seem trifling, but theyare really matters of great importance, as every amateur will find aftera little experience. A large measure of one's success depends on howclosely we follow out the little hints and suggestions along these linesin the cultivation of all kinds of plants. 

Among our best large shrubs, suitable for planting at the rear of thelot, or in the back row of a group, is the Lilac. The leading varietieswill grow to a height of ten or twelve feet, and can be made to take onbush form if desired, or can be trained as a small tree. If the bushform is preferred, cut off the top of the plant, when small, and allowseveral branches to start from its base. If you prefer a tree, keep theplant to one straight stem until it reaches the height where you wantthe head to form. Then cut off its top. Branches will start below. Leaveonly those near the top of the stem. These will develop and form thehead you want. I consider the Lilac one of our very best shrubs, becauseof its entire hardiness, its rapid development, its early floweringhabit, its beauty, its fragrance, and the little attention needed by it. Keep the soil about it rich, and mow off the suckers that will spring upabout the parent plant in great numbers each season, and it will ask nomore of you. The chief objection urged against it is its tendency tosucker so freely. If let alone, it will soon become a nuisance, but witha little attention this disagreeable habit can be overcome. I keep theground about my plants free from suckers by the use of the lawn-mower. They can be cut as easily as grass when young and small. 

[Illustration: SNOWBALL]

If there is a more beautiful shrub than the white Lilac I do not knowwhat it is. For cut-flower work it is as desirable as the Lily of theValley, which is the only flower I can compare it with in delicatebeauty, purity, and sweetness. 

The Persian is very pleasing for front positions, because of itscompact, spreading habit, and its slender, graceful manner of branchingclose to the ground. It is a very free bloomer, and a bush five or sixfeet high, and as many feet across, will often have hundreds ofplume-like tufts of bloom, of a dark purple showing a decided violettint. 

The double varieties are lovely beyond description. At a little distancethe difference between the doubles and singles will not be verynoticeable, but at close range the beauty of the former will beapparent. Their extra petals give them an airy grace, a featherylightness, which the shorter-spiked kinds do not have. By all means havea rosy-purple double variety, and a double white. No garden that livesup to its privileges will be without them. If I could have but oneshrub, I think my choice would be a white Lilac. 

Another shrub of tall and stately habit is the old Snowball. When wellgrown, few shrubs can surpass it in beauty. Its great balls of bloom arecomposed of scores of individually small flowers, and they are borne insuch profusion that the branches often bend beneath their weight. Oflate years there has been widespread complaint of failure with thisplant, because of the attack of aphides. These little green plant-licelocate themselves on the underside of the tender foliage, before it isfully developed, and cause it to curl in an unsightly way. The harm isdone by these pests sucking the juices from the leaf. I have had nodifficulty in preventing them from injuring my bushes since I began theuse of the insecticide sold by the florists under the name ofNicoticide. If this is applied as directed on the can in which it is putup, two or three applications will entirely rid the plant of theinsects, and they will not return after being driven away by anything asdisagreeable to them as a nicotine extract. Great care must be taken tosee that the application gets to the underside of the foliage where thepests will establish themselves. This is a matter of the greatestimportance, for, in order to rout them, it is absolutely necessary thatyou get the nicotine _where they are_. Simply sprinkling it over thebush will do very little good. 

The Spirea is one of the loveliest of all shrubs. Its flowers areexquisite in their daintiness, and so freely produced that the bush isliterally covered with them. And the habit of the bush is grace itself, and this without any attention whatever from you in the way of training. In fact, attempt to train a Spirea and the chances are that you willspoil it. Let it do its own training, and the result will be all thatyou or any one else could ask for. There are several varieties, as youwill see when you consult the dealers' catalogues. Some are double, somesingle, some white, some pink. Among the most desirable for generalculture I would name _Van Houteii_, a veritable fountain of pure whiteblossoms in May and June, _Prunifolia_, better known as "Bridal Wreath, "with double white flowers, _Billardi_, pink, and _Fortunei_, delicate, bright rose-color. 

The Spireas are excellent shrubs for grouping, especially when the whiteand pink varieties are used together. This shrub is very hardy, and ofthe easiest culture, and I can recommend it to the amateur, feelingconfident that it will never fail to please. 

Quite as popular as the Spirea is the Deutzia, throughout the middlesection of the northern states. Farther north it is likely towinter-kill badly. That is, many of its branches will be injured to suchan extent that they will have to be cut away to within a foot or two ofthe ground, thus interfering with a free production of flowers. Theblossoms of this shrub are of a tasselly bell-shape, produced thicklyall along the slender branches, in June. _Candidissima_ is a doublewhite, very striking and desirable. _Gracilis_ is the most daintilybeautiful member of the family, all things considered. _Discolorgrandiflora_ is a variety with large double blossoms, tinted with pinkon the reverse of the petals. 

The Weigelia is a lovely shrub. There are white, pink, and carminevarieties. The flowers, which are trumpet-shaped, are borne in spikes inwhich bloom and foliage are so delightfully mixed that the result is aspray of great beauty. A strong plant will be a solid mass of color forweeks. 

An excellent, low-growing, early flowering shrub is _Pyrus Japonica_, better known as Japan Quince. It is one of our earliest bloomers. Itsflowers are of the most intense, fiery scarlet. This is one of our bestplants for front rows in the shrubbery, and is often used as a lowhedge. 

[Illustration: AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS]

One of our loveliest little shrubs is Daphne _Cneorum_, oftener known asthe "Garland Flower. " Its blossoms are borne in small clusters at theextremity of the stalks. They are a soft pink, and very sweet. The habitof the plant is low and spreading. While this is not as showy as many ofour shrubs, it is one that will win your friendship, because of itsmodest beauty, and will keep a place in your garden indefinitely afterit has once been given a place there. 

Berberis--the "Barberry" of "Grandmother's garden"--is a mostsatisfactory shrub, for several reasons: It is hardy everywhere. Thewhite, yellow, and orange flowers of the different varieties are showyin spring; in fall the foliage colors finely; and through the greaterpart of winter the scarlet, blue and black berries are extremelypleasing. _Thunbergii_ is a dwarf variety, with yellow flowers, followedby vivid scarlet fruit. In autumn, the foliage changes to scarlet andgold, and makes the bush as attractive as if covered with flowers. Thisis an excellent variety for a low hedge. 

Exochorda _grandiflora_, better known as "Pearl Bush, " is one of themost distinctively ornamental shrubs in cultivation. It grows to aheight of seven to ten feet, and can be pruned to almost any desirableshape. The buds, which come early in the season, look like pearlsstrung on fine green threads--hence the popular name of the plant--andthese open into flowers of the purest white. A fine shrub for thebackground of a border. 

Forsythia is a splendid old shrub growing to a height of eight to tenfeet. Its flowers appear before its leaves are out, and are of such arich, shining yellow that they light up the garden like a bonfire. Theflowers are bell-shaped, hence the popular name of the plant, "GoldenBell. "

Hydrangea _paniculata grandiflora_ is a very general favorite because ofits great hardiness, profusion of flowers, ease of cultivation, andhabit of late blooming. It is too well known to need description. 

Robinia _hispida_, sometimes called Rose Acacia, is a native species ofthe Locust. It has long, drooping, very lovely clusters of pea-shapedflowers of a soft pink color. It will grow in the poorest soil and standmore neglect than any other shrub I have knowledge of. But because it_can_ do this is no reason why it should be asked to do it. Give it goodtreatment and it will do so much better for you than it possibly canunder neglect, that it will seem like a new variety of an old plant. 

The Flowering Currant is a delightful shrub, and one that anyone cangrow, and one that will flourish anywhere. It is very pleasing in habit, without any attention in the way of training. Its branches spreadgracefully in all directions from the centre of the bush, and grow to alength of six or seven feet. Early in the season they are covered withbright yellow flowers of a spicy and delicious fragrance. In fall thebush takes on a rich coloring of crimson and gold, and is really muchshowier then than when in bloom, in spring. 

Sambucus _aurea_--the Golden Elder--is one of the showiest shrubs incultivation, and its showy feature is its foliage. Let alone, it growsto be a very large bush, but judicious pruning keeps it within bounds, for small grounds. It makes an excellent background for such brilliantlycolored flowers as the Dahlia, Salvia _splendens_, or scarlet Geraniums. It deserves a place in all collections. Our native Cut-Leaved Elder isone of the most beautiful ornaments any place can have. It bearsenormous cymes of delicate, lace-like, fragrant flowers in June andJuly. These are followed by purple berries, which make the bush asattractive as when in bloom. 

The Syringa, or Mock Orange, is one of our favorites. It grows to aheight of eight and ten feet and is therefore well adapted to places inthe back row, or in the rear of the garden. Its flowers, which are bornein great profusion, are a creamy white, and very sweet-scented. 

The double-flowered Plum is a most lovely shrub. It blooms early inspring, before its leaves are out. Its flowers are very double, and of adelicate pink, and are produced in such profusion that the entire plantseems under a pink cloud. 

Another early bloomer, somewhat similar to the Plum, is the FloweringAlmond, an old favorite. This, however, is of slender habit, and shouldbe given a place in the front row. Its lovely pink-and-white flowers areborne all along the gracefully arching stalks, making them look likewreaths of bloom that Nature had not finished by fastening them togetherin chaplet form. 

It is not to be understood that the list given above includes all thedesirable varieties of shrubs suited to amateur culture. It does, however, include the cream of the list for general-purpose gardening. There are many other kinds that are well worth a place in any garden, but some of them are inclined to be rather too tender for use at thenorth, without protection, and others require a treatment which theywill not be likely to get from the amateur gardener, therefore I wouldnot advise the beginner in shrub-growing to undertake their culture. 

Many an amateur gardener labors under the impression that all shrubsmust be given an annual pruning. He doesn't know just how he got thisimpression, but--he has it. He looks his shrubs over, and sees no actualnecessity for the use of the knife, but--pruning must be done, and hecuts here, and there, and everywhere, without any definite aim in view, simply because he feels that something of the kind is demanded of him. This is where a great mistake is made. So long as a shrub is healthy andpleasing in shape let it alone. It is not necessary that it shouldpresent the same appearance from all points of view. That would be tomake it formal, prim--anything but graceful. Go into the fields andforests and take lessons from Nature, the one gardener who makes nomistakes. Her shrubs are seldom regular in outline, but they arebeautiful, all the same, and graceful, every one of them, with a gracethat is the result of informality and naturalness. Therefore never prunea shrub unless it really needs it, and let the need be determined bysomething more than mere lack of uniformity in its development. Much ofthe charm of Nature's workmanship is the result of irregularity whichnever does violence to the laws of symmetry and grace. Study thewayside shrub until you discover the secret of it, and apply theknowledge thus gained to the management of your home garden. 

Shrubs can be set in fall or spring. Some persons will tell you thatspring planting is preferable, and give you good reasons for theirpreference. Others will advance what seem to be equally good reasons forpreferring to plant in fall. So far as my experience goes, I see butlittle difference in results. 

By planting in spring, you get your shrub into the ground before itbegins to grow. 

By planting in fall, you get it into the ground after it has completedits annual growth. 

You will have to be governed by circumstances, and do the best you canunder them, and you will find, I feel quite sure, that good results willcome from planting at either season. 

If you plant in spring, do not defer the work until after your plantshave begun growing. Do it as soon as the frost is out of the ground. 

If in fall, do it as soon as possible after the plant has fullycompleted the growth of the season, and "ripened off, " as we say. Inother words, is in that dormant condition which follows the completionof its yearly work. This will be shown by the falling of its leaves. 

Never starve a shrub while it is small and young, under the impressionthat, because it is small, it doesn't make much difference how you useit. It makes all the difference in the world. Much of its futureusefulness depends on the treatment it receives at this period. What youwant to do is to give it a good start. And after it gets well started, keep it going steadily ahead. Allow no grass or weeds to grow close toit and force it to dispute with them for its share of nutriment in thesoil about its roots. 

It is a good plan to spread a bushel or more of coarse litter about eachshrub in fall. Not because it needs protection in the sense that atender plant needs it, but because a mulch keeps the frost from workingharm at its roots, and saves to the plant that amount of vital forcewhich it would be obliged to expend upon itself if it were left to takecare of itself. For it is true that even our hardiest plants suffer agood deal in the fight with cold, though they may not seem to be muchinjured by it. Mulch some of them, and leave some of them without amulch, and notice the difference between the two when spring comes. Ifyou do this, I feel sure you will give _all_ of them the mulch-treatmentevery season thereafter. 

VINES

A home without vines is like a home without children--it lacks the verything that ought to be there to make it most delightful and home-like. 

A good vine--and we have many such--soon becomes "like one of thefamily. " Year after year it continues to develop, covering unsightlyplaces with its beauty of leaf and bloom, and hiding defects that can behidden satisfactorily in no other way. All of us have seen houses thatwere positively ugly in appearance before vines were planted about them, that became pleasant and attractive as soon as the vines had a chance toshow what they could do in the way of covering up ugliness. 

There are few among our really good vines that will not continue to givesatisfaction for an indefinite period if given a small amount ofattention each season. I can think of none that are not better when tenor twelve years old than they are two and three years afterplanting--healthier, stronger, like a person who has "got his growth"and arrived at that period when all the elements of manhood are fullydeveloped. Young vines may be as pleasing as old ones, as far as theygo, but--the objection is that they do not go far enough. The value of avine depends largely on size, and size depends largely on age. Duringthe early stage of a vine's existence it is making promise of futuregrace and beauty, and we must give it plenty of time in which to makethat promise good. We must also give such care as will make it not onlypossible but easy to fulfil this promise to the fullest extent. 

While many vines will live on indefinitely under neglect, they cannot dothemselves justice under such conditions, as any one will find whoplants one and leaves it to look out for itself. But be kind to it, showit that you care for it and have its welfare at heart, and it willsurprise and delight you with its rapidity of growth, and the beauty itis capable of imparting to everything with which it comes in contact. For it seems impossible for a vine to grow anywhere without makingeverything it touches beautiful. It is possessor of the magic whichtransforms plain things into loveliness. 

If I were obliged to choose between vines and shrubs--and I am veryglad that I do not have to do so--I am quite sure I would choose theformer. I can hardly explain how it is, but we seem to get on moreintimate terms with a vine than we do with a shrub. Probably it isbecause it grows so close to the dwelling, as a general thing, that wecome to think of it as a part of the home. 

Vines planted close to the house walls often fail to do well, becausethey do not have a good soil to spread their roots in. The soil thrownout from the cellar, or in making an excavation for the foundationwalls, is almost always hard, and deficient in nutriment. In order tomake it fit for use a liberal amount of sand and loam ought to be addedto it, and mixed with it so thoroughly that it becomes a practically newsoil. At the same time manure should be given in generous quantity. Ifthis is done, a poor soil can be made over into one that will give mostexcellent results. One application of manure, however, will not besufficient. In one season, a strong, healthy vine will use up all theelements of plant-growth, and more should be supplied to meet thedemands of the following year. In other words, vines should be manuredeach season if they are expected to keep in good health and continue todevelop. If barnyard manure cannot be obtained, use bonemeal of which Iso often speak in this book. I consider it the best substitute forbarnyard fertilizer that I have ever used, for all kinds of plants. 

The best, all-round vine for general use, allowing me to be judge, isAmpelopsis, better known throughout the country as American Ivy, orVirginia Creeper. It is of exceedingly rapid growth, often sending outbranches twenty feet in length in a season, after it has become wellestablished. It clings to stone, wood, or brick, with equal facility, and does not often require any support except such as it secures foritself. There are two varieties. One has flat, sucker-like discs, whichhold themselves tightly against whatever surface they come in contactwith, on the principle of suction. The other has tendrils which claspthemselves about anything they can grasp, or force themselves intocracks and crevices in such a manner as to furnish all the support thevine needs. So far as foliage and general habit goes, there is not muchdifference between these two varieties, but the variety withdisc-supports colors up most beautifully in fall. The foliage of both isvery luxuriant. When the green of summer gives way to the scarlet andmaroon of autumn, the entire plant seems to have changed its leaves forflowers, so brilliant is its coloring. There is but one objection to beurged against this plant, and that is--its tendency to rampant growth. Let it have its way and it will cover windows as well as walls, andfling its festoons across doorway and porch. This will have to beprevented by clipping away all branches that show an inclination to runriot, and take possession of places where no vines are needed. When youdiscover a branch starting out in the wrong direction, cut it off atonce. A little attention of this kind during the growing period willsave the trouble of a general pruning later on. 

Vines, like children, should be trained while growing if you would havethem afford satisfaction when grown. 

The Ampelopsis will climb to the roof of a two-story house in a shorttime, and throw out its branches freely as it makes its upward growth, and this without any training or pruning. Because of its ability to takecare of itself in these respects, as well as because of its greatbeauty, I do not hesitate to call it the best of all vines for generaluse. It will grow in all soils except clear sand, it is as hardy as itis possible for a vine to be, and so far as my experience with itgoes--and I have grown it for the last twenty years--it has nodiseases. 

[Illustration: HONEYSUCKLE]

For verandas and porches the Honeysuckles will probably afford bettersatisfaction because of their less rampant habit. Also because of thebeauty and the fragrance of their flowers. Many varieties are all-summerbloomers. The best of these are Scarlet Trumpet and _Halleana_. Thevines can be trained over trellises, or large-meshed wire netting, ortacked to posts, as suits the taste of the owner. In whatever manner youtrain them they lend grace and beauty to a porch without shutting offthe outlook wholly, as their foliage is less plentiful than that of mostvines. This vine is of rapid development, and so hardy that it requiresvery little attention in the way of protection in winter. The varietycalled Scarlet Trumpet has scarlet and orange flowers. _Halleana_ hasalmost evergreen foliage and cream-white flowers of most delightfulfragrance. Both can be trained up together with very pleasing effect. There are other good sorts, but I consider that these two combine allthe best features of the entire list, therefore I would advise theamateur gardener to concentrate his attention on them instead ofspreading it out over inferior kinds. 

Every lover of flowers who sees the hybrid varieties of Clematis inbloom is sure to want to grow them. They are very beautiful, it is true, and few plants are more satisfactory when well grown. But--there's therub--to grow them well. 

The variety known as _Jackmani_, with dark purple-blue flowers, is mostlikely to succeed under amateur culture, but of late years it has beenquite unsatisfactory. Plants of it grow well during the early part ofthe season, but all at once blight strikes them, and they wither in aday, as if something had attacked the root, and in a short time they aredead. This has discouraged the would-be growers of the large-floweredvarieties--for all of them seem to be subject to the same disease. Whatthis disease is no one seems able to say, and, so far, no remedy for ithas been advanced. 

But in Clematis _paniculata_, we have a variety that I consider superiorin every respect to the large-flowered kinds, and to date no one hasreported any trouble with it. It is of strong and healthy growth, andrampant in its habit, thus making it useful where the large-floweredkinds have proved defective, as none of them are of what may be calledfree growth. They grow to a height of seven or eight feet--sometimesten, --but have few branches, and sparse foliage. _Paniculata_, on thecontrary, makes a very vigorous growth--often twenty feet in aseason--and its foliage, unlike that of the other varieties, isattractive enough in itself to make the plant well worth growing. It isa rich, glossy green, and so freely produced that it furnishes a denseshade. Late in the season, after most other plants are in "the sere andyellow leaf" it is literally covered with great panicles of starry whiteflowers which have a delightful fragrance. While this variety lacks therich color of such varieties as _Jackmani_ and others of the hybridclass, it is really far more beautiful. Indeed, I know of no floweringvine that can equal it in this respect. Its late-flowering habit addsgreatly to its value. It is not only healthy, but hardy--a quality noone can afford to overlook when planting vines about the house. LikeClematis _flammula_, a summer-blooming relative of great value both forits beauty and because it is a native, it is likely to die pretty nearlyto the ground in winter, but, because of rapid growth, this is not muchof an objection. By the time the flowers of either variety are likely tocome in for a fair share of appreciation, the vines will have grown togood size. 

For the middle and southern sections of the northern states the Wistariais a most desirable vine, but at the north it cannot be depended on tosurvive the winter in a condition that will enable it to give asatisfactory crop of flowers. Its roots will live, but most of itsbranches will be killed each season. 

Ampelopsis _Veitchii_, more commonly known as Boston or Japan Ivy, is acharming vine to train over brick and stone walls in localities where itis hardy, because of its dense habit of growth. Its foliage is smallerthan that of the native Ampelopsis, and it is far less rampant ingrowth, though a free grower. It will completely cover the walls of abuilding with its dark green foliage, every shoot clinging so closelythat a person seeing the plant for the first time would get the ideathat it had been shorn of all its branches except those adhering to thewall. All its branches attach themselves to the wall-surface, thusgiving an even, uniform effect quite unlike that of other vines whichthrow out branches in all directions, regardless of wall or trellis. Inautumn this variety takes on a rich coloring that must be seen to befully appreciated. 

[Illustration: JAPAN IVY GROWING ON WALL]

Our native Celastrus, popularly known as Bittersweet, is a verydesirable vine if it can be given something to twine itself about. Ithas neither tendril nor disc, and supports itself by twisting its newgrowth about trees over which it clambers, branches--anything that itcan wind about. If no other support is to be found it will twist aboutitself in such a manner as to form a great rope of branches. It hasattractive foliage, but the chief beauty of the vine is its clusters ofpendant fruit, which hang to the plant well into winter. This fruit is aberry of bright crimson, enclosed in an orange shell which cracks open, in three pieces, and becomes reflexed, thus disclosing the berry within. As these berries grow in clusters of good size, and are very freelyproduced, the effect of a large plant can be imagined. In fall thefoliage turns to a pure gold, and forms a most pleasing background forthe scarlet and orange clusters to display themselves against. The plantis of extremely rapid growth. It has a habit of spreading rapidly, andwidely, by sending out underground shoots which come to the surface manyfeet away from the parent plant. These must be kept mowed down or theywill become a nuisance. 

Flower-loving people are often impatient of results, and I am oftenasked what annual I would advise one to make use of, for immediateeffect, or while the hardy vines are getting a start. I know of nothingbetter, all things considered, than the Morning Glory, of which mentionwill be found elsewhere. 

The Flowering Bean is a pretty vine for training up about verandas, butdoes not grow to a sufficient height to make it of much value elsewhere. It is fine for covering low trellises or a fence. 

The "climbing" Nasturtiums are not really climbers. Rather plants withsuch long and slender branches that they must be given some support tokeep them from straggling all over the ground. They are very pleasingwhen used to cover fences, low screens, and trellises, or when trainedalong the railing of the veranda. 

The Kudzu Vine is of wonderful rapidity of growth, and will be found agood substitute for a hardy vine about piazzas and porches. 

Aristolochia, or Dutchman's Pipe, is a hardy vine of more than ordinarymerit. It has large, overlapping leaves that furnish a dense shade, andvery peculiar flowers--more peculiar, in fact, than beautiful. 

Bignonia will give satisfaction south of Chicago, in most localities. Where it stands the winter it is a favorite on account of its greatprofusion of orange-scarlet flowers and its pretty, finely-cut foliage. Farther north it will live on indefinitely, like the Wistaria, but itsbranches will nearly always be badly killed in winter. 

It is a mistake to make use of strips of cloth in fastening vines towalls, as so many are in the habit of doing, because the cloth will soonrot, and when a strong wind comes along, or after a heavy rain, thevines will be torn from their places, and generally it will be foundimpossible to replace them satisfactorily. Cloth and twine may answerwell enough for annual vines, with the exception of the Morning Glory, but vines of heavy growth should be fastened with strips of leatherpassed about the main stalks and nailed to the wall securely. Do not usea small tack, as the weight of the vines will often tear it loose fromthe wood. Do not make the leather so tight that it will interfere withthe circulation of sap in the plant. Allow space for future growth. Somepersons use iron staples, but I would not advise them as they are sureto chafe the branches they are used to support. 

The question is often asked if vines are not harmful to the walls overwhich they are trained. I have never found them so. On the contrary, Ihave found walls that had been covered with vines for years in a betterstate of preservation than walls on which no vines had ever beentrained. The explanation is a simple one: The leaves of the vines act inthe capacity of shingles, and shed rain, thus keeping it from getting tothe walls of the building. 

But I would not advise training vines over the roof, unless it isconstructed of slate or some material not injured by dampness, becausethe moisture will get below the foliage, where the sun cannot get at it, and long-continued dampness will soon bring on decay. 

On account of the difficulty of getting at them, vines are never prunedto any great extent, but it would be for the betterment of them if theywere gone over every year, and all the oldest branches cut away, orthinned out enough to admit of a free circulation of air. If this weredone, the vine would be constantly renewing itself, and most kinds wouldbe good for a lifetime. It really is not such a difficult undertaking asmost people imagine, for by the use of an ordinary ladder one can get atmost parts of a building, and reach such portions of the vines as needattention most. 

THE HARDY BORDER

The most satisfactory garden of flowering plants for small places, allthings considered, is one composed of hardy herbaceous perennials andbiennials. 

This for several reasons:

1st. --Once thoroughly established they are good for an indefiniteperiod. 

2d. --It is not necessary to "make garden" annually, as is the case whereannuals are depended on. 

3d. --They require less care than any other class of plants. 

4th. --Requiring less care than other plants, they are admirably adaptedto the needs of those who can devote only a limited amount of time togardening. 

5th. --They include some of the most beautiful plants we have. 

6th. --By a judicious selection of kinds it is possible to have flowersfrom them from early in spring till late in fall. 

I have no disposition to say disparaging things about the garden ofannuals. Annuals are very desirable. Some of them are absolutelyindispensable. But they call for a great deal of labor. It is hard workto spade the ground, and make the beds, and sow the seed, and keep theweeds down. This work must be done year after year. But with hardyplants this is not the case. Considerable labor may be called for, thefirst year, in preparing the ground and setting out the plants, but themost of the work done among them, after that, can be done with the hoe, and it will take so little time to do it that you will wonder how youever came to think annuals the only plants for the flower-garden of busypeople. That this _is_ what a great many persons think is true, but itis because they have not had sufficient experience with hardy plants tofully understand their merits, and the small amount of care theyrequire. A season's experience will convince them of their mistake. 

[Illustration: SHRUBS AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER]

In preparing the ground for the reception of these plants, spade it upto the depth of a foot and a half, at least, and work into it a liberalamount of good manure, or some commercial fertilizer that will take theplace of manure from the barnyard or cow-stable. Most perennials andherbaceous plants will do fairly well in a soil of only moderaterichness, but they cannot do themselves justice in it. They ought not tobe expected to. To secure the best results from them--and you ought tobe satisfied with nothing less--feed them well. Give them a good start, at the time of planting, and keep them up to a high standard of vitalityby liberal feeding, and they will surprise and delight you with theprofusion and beauty of their bloom. 

Perennials will not bloom till the second year from seed. Therefore, ifyou want flowers from them the first season, it will be necessary foryou to purchase last season's seedlings from the florist. 

In most neighborhoods one can secure enough material to stock the borderfrom friends who have old plants that need to be divided, or byexchanging varieties. 

But if you want plants of any particular color, or of a certain variety, you will do well to give your order to a dealer. In most gardens five orsix years old the original varieties will either have died out or sodeteriorated that the stock you obtain there will be inferior in manyrespects, therefore not at all satisfactory to one who is inclined to besatisfied with nothing but the best. The "best" is what the dealer willsend you if you patronize one who has established a reputation forhonesty. 

The impression prevails, to a great extent, that perennials bloom onlyfor a very short time in the early part of the season. This is amistake. If you select your plants with a view to the prolongation ofthe flowering period, you can have flowers throughout the season fromthis class of plants. Of course not all of them will bloom at the sametime. I would not be understood as meaning that. But what I do meanis--that by choosing for a succession of bloom it is possible to securekinds whose flowering periods will meet and overlap each other in such amanner that some of them will be in bloom most of the time. Many kindsbloom long before the earliest annuals are ready to begin the work ofthe season. Others are in their prime at midsummer, and later ones willgive flowers until frost comes. If you read up the catalogues andfamiliarize yourself with the habits of the plants which the dealeroffers for sale, you can make a selection that will keep the garden gayfrom May to November. 

On the ordinary home-lot there is not much choice allowed as to thelocation of the border. It must go to the sides of the lot if it startsin front of the house, or it may be located at the rear of thedwelling. On most grounds it will, after a little, occupy both of thesepositions, for it will outgrow its early limitations in a few years. Youwill be constantly adding to it, and thus it comes about that the borderthat _begins_ on each side of the lot will overflow to the rear. 

I would never advise locating it in front of the dwelling. Leave thelawn unbroken there. While there is not much opportunity for "effect" onsmall grounds, a departure from straight lines can always be made, andformality and primness be avoided to a considerable degree. Let theinner edge of the border curve, as shown in the illustrationaccompanying this chapter, and the result will be a hundredfold morepleasing than it would be if it were a straight line. Curves are alwaysgraceful, and indentations here and there enable you to secure newpoints of view that add vastly to the general effect. They make theborder seem larger than it really is because only a portion of it isseen at the same time, as would not be the case if it were made up ofstraight rows of plants, with the same width throughout. 

By planting low-growing kinds in front, and backing them up with kindsof a taller growth, with the very tallest growers in the rear, theeffect of a bank of flowers and foliage can be secured. This theillustration clearly shows. 

Shrubbery can be used in connection with perennials with mostsatisfactory results. This, as the reader will see, was done on thegrounds from which the picture was taken. Here we have a combinationwhich cannot fail to afford pleasure. I would not advise any home-makerto confine his border to plants of one class. Use shrubs and perennialstogether, and scatter annuals here and there, and have bulbs all alongthe border's edge. 

I want to call particular attention to one thing which the picture underconsideration emphasizes very forcibly, and that is--the unstudiedinformality of it. It seems to have planned itself. It is like one ofNature's fence-corner bits of gardening. 

For use in the background we have several most excellent plants. TheDelphinium--Larkspur--grows to a height of seven or eight feet, in richsoil, sending up a score or more of stout stalks from each strong clumpof roots. Two or three feet of the upper part of these stalks will besolid with a mass of flowers of the richest, most intense blueimaginable. I know of no other flower of so deep and striking a shadeof this rather rare color in the garden. In order to guard againstinjury from strong winds, stout stakes should be set about each clump, and wound with wire or substantial cord to prevent the flowering stalksfrom being broken down. There is a white variety, _Chinensis_, that ismost effective when used in combination with the blue, which you willfind catalogued as Delphinium _formosum_. If several strong clumps aregrouped together, the effect will be magnificent when the plants are infull bloom. By cutting away the old stalks as soon as they havedeveloped all their flowers, new ones can be coaxed to grow, and underthis treatment the plants can be kept in bloom for many weeks. 

"Golden Glow" Rudbeckia is quite as strong a grower as the Delphinium, and a more prolific bloomer does not exist. It will literally coveritself with flowers of the richest golden yellow, resembling in shapeand size those of the "decorative" type of Dahlia. This plant is a verystrong grower, and so aggressive that it will dispute possession withany plant near it, and on this account it should never be given a placewhere it can interfere with choice varieties. Let it have its own wayand it will crowd out even the grass of the lawn. Its proper place isin the extreme background, well to the rear, where distance will lendenchantment to the view. It must not be inferred from this that it istoo coarse a flower to give a front place to. It belongs to the rearsimply because of its aggressive qualities, and the intense effect ofits strong, all-pervading color. You do not want a flower in the frontrow that, being given an inch, will straightway insist upon taking anell. This the Rudbeckia will do, every time, if not promptly checked. Itis an exceedingly valuable plant to cut from, as its flowers last fordays, and light up a room like a great burst of strong sunshine. 

Hollyhocks must have a place in every border. Their stately habit, profusion of bloom, wonderful range and richness of color, andlong-continued flowering period make them indispensable and favoriteseverywhere. They are most effective when grown in large masses orgroups. If they are prevented from ripening seed, they will bloomthroughout the greater part of the season. The single varieties are ofthe tallest, stateliest growth, therefore admirably adapted to back rowsin the border. The double kinds work in well in front of them. These arethe showiest members of the family because their flowers are sothickly set along the stalk that a stronger color-effect is given, butthey are really no finer than the single sorts, so far as general effectis concerned. Indeed, I think I prefer the single kinds because the richand peculiar markings of the individual flower show to much betteradvantage in them than in the doubles, whose multiplicity of petalshides this very pleasing variegation. But I would not care to go withouteither kind. 

[Illustration: OLD-FASHIONED HOLLYHOCKS]

Coreopsis _lanceolata_ is a very charming plant for front rows, especially if it can have a place where it is given the benefit ofcontrast with a white flower, like the Daisy. In such a location itsrich golden yellow comes out brilliantly, and makes a most effectivepoint of color in the border. 

Perennial Phlox, all things considered, deserves a place very near tothe head of the list of our very best hardy plants. Perhaps if a votewere taken, it would be elected as leader of its class in point ofmerit. It is so entirely hardy, so sturdy and self-reliant, sowonderfully floriferous, and so rich and varied in color that it isalmost an ideal plant for border-use. It varies greatly in habit. Somevarieties attain a height of five feet or more. Others are lowgrowers, --almost dwarfs, in fact, --therefore well adapted to placesin the very front row, and close to the path. The majority are of mediumhabit, fitting into the middle rows most effectively. With a little carein the selection of varieties--depending on the florists' catalogues togive us the height of each--it is an easy matter to arrange the varioussorts in such a way as to form a bank which will be an almost solid massof flowers for weeks. Some varieties have flowers of the purest white, and the colors of others range through many shades of pink, carmine, scarlet, and crimson, to lilac, mauve, and magenta. The three colorslast named must never be planted alongside or near to the other colors, with the exception of white, as there can be no harmony between them. They make a color-discord so intense as to be positively painful to theeye that has keen color-sense. But combine them with the white kinds andthey are among the loveliest of the lot. This Phlox ought always to begrouped, to be most effective, and white varieties should be usedliberally to serve as a foil to the more brilliant colors and bring outtheir beauty most strikingly. 

[Illustration: THE PEONY AT ITS BEST]

Peonies are superb flowers, and no border can afford to be without them. The varieties are almost endless, but you cannot have too many ofthem. Use them everywhere. The chances are that you will wish you hadroom for more. They bloom early, are magnificent in color and form, andare so prolific that old plants often bear a hundred or more flowerseach season, and their profusion of bloom increases with age, as theplant gains in size. Many varieties are as fragrant as a Rose, and allof them are as hardy as a plant can well be. What more need be said intheir favor?

In order to attain the highest degree of success with the Peony, itshould be given a rather heavy soil, and manure should be used withgreat liberality. In fact it is hardly possible to make the soil toorich to suit it. Disturb the roots as little as possible. The plant isvery sensitive to any treatment that affects the root, and taking away a"toe" for a neighbor will often result in its failure to bloom nextseason. Keep the grass from crowding it. Year after year it will spreadits branches farther and wider, and there will be more of them, and itsflowers will be larger and finer each season, if the soil is kept rich. I know of old clumps that have a spread of six feet or more, sending uphundreds of stalks from matted roots that have not been disturbed for noone knows how long, on which blossoms can be counted by the hundredsevery spring. 

Dicentra, better known as "Bleeding Heart, " because of its pendulous, heart-shaped flowers, is a most lovely early bloomer. It is an excellentplant for the front row of the border. It sends up a great number offlowering stalks, two and three feet in length, all curving gracefullyoutward from the crown of the plant. These bear beautifulfoliage--indeed, the plant would be well worth growing for thisalone--and each stalk is terminated with a raceme of pink and whiteblossoms. It is difficult to imagine anything lovelier or more gracefulthan this plant, when in full bloom. 

The Aquilegia ought to be given a place in all collections. It comes inblue, white, yellow, and red. Some varieties are single, others double, and all beautiful. This is one of our early bloomers. It should be grownin clumps, near the front row. 

[Illustration: A BIT OF THE BORDER OF PERENNIAL PLANTS]

The Iris is to the garden what the Orchid is to the greenhouse. Itscolors are of the richest--blue, purple, violet, yellow, white, andgray. It blooms in great profusion, for weeks during the early part ofsummer. It is a magnificent flower. It will be found most effective whengrouped, but it can be scattered about the border in such a way as toproduce charming results if one is careful to plant it among plantswhose flowers harmonize with the different varieties in color. Color-harmony is as important in the hardy border as in any other partof the garden, and no plant should be put out until you are sure of theeffect it will produce upon other plants in its immediate neighborhood. Find the proper place for it before you give it a permanent location. The term, "proper place, " has as much reference to color as to size. Aplant that introduces color-discord is as much out of place as is theplant whose size makes it a candidate for a position in the rear when itis given a place in the immediate foreground. 

Pyrethrum _uliginosum_ is a wonderfully free bloomer, growing to aheight of three or four feet, therefore well adapted to the middle rowsof the border. It blooms during the latter part of summer. It is oftencalled the "Giant Daisy, " and the name is very appropriate, as it is thecommon Daisy, to all intents and purposes, on a large scale. 

The small white Daisy, of lower growth, is equally desirable forfront-row locations. It is a most excellent plant, blooming early inthe season, and throughout the greater part of summer, and well intoautumn if the old flower-stalks are cut away in September, to encouragenew growth. It is a stand-by for cut flowers for bouquet work. Becauseof its compact habit it is a very desirable plant for edging the border. 

It is difficult to imagine anything more daintily charming than theherbaceous Spireas. _Alba_, white, and _rosea_, soft pink, producelarge, feathery tufts of bloom on stalks six and seven feet tall. Theflowers of these varieties are exceedingly graceful in an airy, cloud-like way, and never fail to attract the attention of those whopass ordinary plants by without seeing them. 

The florists have taken our native Asters in hand, and we now haveseveral varieties that make themselves perfectly at home in the border. Some of them grow to a height of eight feet. Others are low growers. Therosy-violet kinds and the pale lavender-blues are indescribably lovely. Nearly all of them bloom very late in the season. Their long brancheswill be a mass of flowers with fringy petals and a yellow centre. Theseplants have captured the charm of the Indian Summer and brought it intothe garden, where they keep it prisoner during the last days of theseason. By all means give them a place in your collection. And it willadd to the effect if you plant alongside them a few clumps of theirsturdy, faithful old companion of the roadside and pasture, the GoldenRod. 

It hardly seems necessary for me to give a detailed description of allthe plants deserving a place in the border. The list would be too longif I were to attempt to do so. You will find all the really desirablekinds quite fully described in the catalogues of the leading dealers inplants. Information as to color, size, and time of flowering is giventhere, and you can select to suit your taste, feeling confident that youwill be well satisfied with the result. 

Just a few words of advice, in conclusion:

Don't crowd your plants. 

Allow for development. 

Don't try to have a little of everything. 

Don't overlook the old-fashioned kinds simply because they happen to beold. That proves that they have merit. 

Keep the ground between them clean and open. 

Manure well each spring. 

Stir the soil occasionally during the season. 

Prevent the formation of seed. 

Once in three or four years divide the old clumps, and discard all butthe strongest, healthiest portions of the roots. Reset in rich, mellowsoil. Do this while the plants are at a standstill, early in spring, orin fall, after the work of the season is over. 

THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS

In preparing the garden for annuals, the first thing to do is to spadeup the soil. This can be done shortly after the frost is out of theground. This is about all that can be done to advantage, at this time, as the ground must be allowed to remain as it comes from the spade untilthe combined effect of sun and air has put it into a condition that willmake it an easy matter to reduce it to proper mellowness with the hoe oriron rake. 

Right here let me say: Most of us, in the enthusiasm which takespossession of us when spring comes, are inclined to rush matters. Wespade up the soil, and immediately attempt to pulverize it, and ofcourse fail in the attempt, because it is not in a proper condition topulverize. We may succeed in breaking it up into little clods, but thatis not what needs doing. It must be made fine, and mellow, --not a lumpleft in it, --and this can only be done well after the elements have hadan opportunity to do their work on it. When one comes to think aboutit, there is no need of hurry, for it is not safe to sow seed in theground at the north until the weather becomes warm and settled, and thatwill not be before the first of May, in a very favorable season, andgenerally not earlier than the middle of the month. This being the case, be content to leave the soil to the mellowing influences of the weatheruntil seed-sowing time is at hand. _Then_ go to work and get your gardenready. 

If the soil is not rich, apply manure from the barnyard or itssubstitute in the shape of some reliable fertilizer. 

Do this before you set about the pulverization of the soil. Then go towork with hoe and rake, and reduce it to the last possible degree offineness, working the fertilizer you make use of into it in such amanner that both are perfectly blended. 

There is no danger of overdoing matters in this part of garden-work. Thefiner the soil is the surer you may be of the germination of the seedyou put into it. Fine seed often fails to grow in a coarse and lumpysoil. 

In sowing seed, make a distinction between the very fine and that ofordinary size. Fine seed should be scattered on the surface, and noattempt made to cover it. Simply press down the soil upon which you havescattered it with a smooth board. This will make it firm enough toretain the moisture required to bring about germination. 

Larger seed can be sown on the surface, and afterward covered by siftinga slight covering of fine soil over it. Then press with the board tomake it firm. 

Large seed, like that of the Sweet Pea, Four-o'-Clock, and Ricinus, should be covered to the depth of half an inch. 

I always advise sowing seed in the beds where the plants are to grow, instead of starting it in pots and boxes, in the house, early in theseason, under the impression that by so doing you are going to "get thestart of the season. " In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, plants fromseed sown in the house will be so weak in vital force that they cannotstand the change which comes when they are transplanted to the openground. In the majority of cases, there will be none to transplant, forseedlings grown under living-room conditions generally die before thetime comes when it is safe to put them out of doors. Should there be anyto put out, they will be so weak that plants from seed sown in thebeds, at that time, will invariably get the start of them, and these aresure to make the best plants. A person must be an expert in order tomake a success of plant-growing from seed, in the house, in spring. There will be too much heat, too little fresh air, too great a lack ofmoisture in the atmosphere, and often a lack of proper attention in theway of watering, and unless these matters can be properly regulated itis useless to expect success. Knowing what the result is almost sure tobe, I discourage the amateur gardener from attempting to grow his ownseedlings under these conditions. If early plants are desired, buy themof the florists whose facilities for growing them are such that they cansend out strong and healthy stock. 

Do not sow the seeds of tender plants until you are quite sure that thedanger from cold nights is over. It is hardly safe to put any kind ofseed into the ground before the middle of May, at the north. 

If we wait until all conditions are favorable, the young plants will geta good start and go steadily ahead, and distance those from seed sownbefore the soil had become warm or the weather settled. Haste oftenmakes waste. If the soil is cold and damp seed often fails to germinatein it, and this obliges you to buy more seed, and all your labor goesfor naught. 

To the method and time of planting advised above, there is oneexception--that of the Sweet Pea. This should go into the ground as soonas possible in spring. For this reason: This plant likes to get a goodroot-growth before the warm weather of summer comes. With such a growthit is ready for flowering early in the season, and no time is wasted. Dig a V-shaped trench six inches deep. Sow the seed thickly. It oughtnot to be more than an inch apart, and if closer no harm will be done. Cover to the depth of an inch, at time of sowing, tramping the soil downfirmly. When the young plants have grown to be two or three inches tall, draw in more of the soil, and keep on doing this from time to time, asthe seedlings reach up, until all the soil from the trench has beenreturned to it. This method gives us plants with roots deep enough inthe soil to make sure of sufficient moisture in a dry season. It alsoinsures coolness at the root, a condition quite necessary to thesuccessful culture of this favorite flower. 

Weeds will generally put in an appearance before the flowering plantsdo. As soon as you can tell "which is which" the work of weeding mustbegin. At this stage, hand-pulling will have to be depended on. But alittle later, when the flowering plants have made an inch or two ofgrowth, weeding by hand should be abandoned. Provide yourself with aweeding-hook--a little tool with claw-shaped teeth--with which you canuproot more weeds in an hour than you can in all day by hand, and thework will be done in a superior manner as the teeth of the little toolstir the surface of the soil just enough to keep it light and open--acondition that is highly favorable to the healthy development of youngplants. I have never yet seen a person who liked to pull weeds by hand. Gardens are often neglected because of the dislike of their owners forthis disagreeable task. The use of the weeding-hook does away with thedrudgery, and makes really pleasant work of the fight with weeds. 

If seedlings are to be transplanted, do it after sundown or on a cloudyday. Lift the tender plants as carefully as possible, and aim to notexpose their delicate roots. Get the place in which you propose to plantthem ready before you lift them, and then set them out immediately. Makea hole as deep as their roots are long, drop the plants into it, andpress the soil firmly about them with thumb and finger. It may be wellto water them if the season is a dry one. Shade them next day, andcontinue to do so until they show that they have made new feeding rootsby beginning to grow. I make use of a "shader" that I have "evolved frommy inner consciousness" that gives better satisfaction than anythingelse I have ever tried. I cut thick brown paper into circular shape, eight inches across. Then I cut out a quarter of it, and bring the edgesof this cut together, and run a stick or wire through them to hold themtogether. This stick or wire should be about ten inches long, as thelower end of it must go into the soil. When my "shader" is ready for useit has some resemblance to a paper umbrella with a handle at one sideinstead of in the middle. This handle is inserted in the soil close tothe plant, and the "umbrella" shades it most effectively, and does thiswithout interfering with a free circulation of air, which is a matter ofgreat importance. 

If thorough work in the way of weeding is done at the beginning of theseason, it will be an easy matter to keep the upper hand of the enemylater on. But if you allow the weeds to get the start of you, you willhave to do some hard fighting to gain the supremacy which ought never tohave been relinquished. After a little, the hoe can be used toadvantage. If the season happens to be a dry one, do not allow the soilto become hard, and caked on the surface, under the impression that itwill not be safe to stir it because of the drouth. A soil that is keptlight and open will absorb all the moisture there is in the air, whileone whose surface is crusted over cannot do this, therefore plantsgrowing in it suffer far more than those do in the soil that is stirredconstantly. Aim to get all possible benefit from dews and slight showersby keeping the soil in such a sponge-like condition that it can takeadvantage of them. 

It is a good plan to use the grass-clippings from the lawn as a mulchabout your plants in hot, dry weather. 

Do not begin to water plants in a dry season unless you can keep up thepractice. Better let them take the chances of pulling through withoutthe application than to give it for a short time and then abandon itbecause of the magnitude of the task. 

Furnish racks and trellises for such plants as need them as soon as theyare needed. Many a good plant is spoiled by neglecting to give attentionto its requirements at the proper time. 

Make it a rule to go over the garden at least twice a week, after theflowering season sets in, and cut away all faded flowers. If this isdone, no seed will come to development, and the strength of the plantswill be expended in the production of other flowers. By keeping up thispractice through the season, it is possible to keep most of themblossoming until late in the summer, as they will endeavor to perpetuatethemselves by the production of seed, and the first step in this processis the production of flowers. 

What flowers would you advise us to grow? many readers of this chapterwill be sure to ask, after having read what I have said above about thegarden of annuals. 

In answering this question here, it will be necessary, in a measure, torepeat what has been, or will be, said in other chapters, where variousphases of gardening are treated. But the question is one that should beanswered in this connection, at the risk of repetition, in order tofully cover the subject now under consideration. 

There are so many kinds of flowers offered by the seedsmen that it is adifficult matter to decide between them, when all are so good. But noone garden is large enough to contain them all. Were one to attempt thecultivation of all he would be obliged to put in all his time at thework, and the services of an assistant would be needed, besides. Eventhen the chances are that the work would be done in a superficialfashion. Therefore I shall mention only such kinds as I consider thevery best of the lot for general use, adding this advice:

Don't attempt too much. A few good kinds, well grown, will afford agreat deal more pleasure than a great many kinds only half grown. 

This list is made up of such kinds as can properly be classed as"stand-bys, " kinds which any amateur gardener can be reasonably sure ofsuccess with if the instructions given in this chapter are carefullyfollowed. 

_Alyssum. _--Commonly called Sweet Alyssum, because of its pleasingfragrance. Of low growth. Very effective as an edging. Most profuse andconstant bloomer. 

_Aster. _--This annual disputes popularity with the Sweet Pea. Very manypersons would prefer it to any other because of its sturdy habit, easeof culture, profusion of bloom, and great variety of color. It is one ofthe indispensables. 

_Antirrhinum_ (Snapdragon). --Plant of profuse flowering habit. Flowersof peculiar shape, mostly in rich colors. Very satisfactory for autumn. 

[Illustration: A BED OF ASTERS]

_Balsam. _--Splendid plant for summer flowering, coming in many colors, some of these exceedingly delicate and beautiful. Flowers like smallRoses, very double, and set so thickly along the stalks that each branchseems like a wreath of bloom. It is often necessary to trim off many ofthe leaves in order to give the blossoms a chance to display themselves. Some varieties are charmingly variegated. Being quite tender it shouldnot be sown until one is sure of warm weather. 

_Calliopsis_ (Coreopsis). --A very showy plant, with rich yellow flowers, marked with brown, maroon and scarlet at the base of the petal. A mostexcellent plant where great masses of color are desired. Fine forcombining with scarlet and other strong-toned flowers. An all-the-seasonbloomer. 

_Candytuft. _--A free and constant bloomer, of low habit. Very useful foredging beds and borders. Comes in pure white and purplish red. 

_Celosia_ (Cockscomb). --A plant with most peculiar flowers. What we_call_ the flower is really a collection of hundreds of tiny individualblossoms set so close together that they seem to compose one largeblossom. The prevailing color is a bright scarlet, but we have somevarieties in pink and pale yellow. Sure to please. 

_Cosmos. _--A plant of wonderfully free flowering habit. Flowers mostlypink, white, and lilac. A tall grower, branching freely, therefore welladapted to back rows, or massing. Foliage fine and feathery. Excellentfor cutting. One of our most desirable fall bloomers. We have an earlyCosmos of rather dwarf habit, but the large-growing late varieties arefar more satisfactory. It may be necessary to cover the plants at nightwhen the frosts of middle and late September are due, as they will beseverely injured by even the slightest touch of frost. Well worth allthe care required. 

_Four-o'-Clock_ (Marvel of Peru--Mirabilis). --A good, old-fashionedflower that has the peculiarity of opening its trumpet-shaped blossomslate in the afternoon. Bushy, well branched, and adapted to border useas a "filler. "

_Escholtzia_ (California Poppy). --One of the showiest flowers in theentire list. A bed of it will be a sheet of richest golden yellow formany weeks. 

_Gaillardia_ (Blanket-flower). --A profuse and constant bloomer, of richand striking color-combinations. Yellow, brown, crimson, and maroon. Most effective when massed. 

_Gypsophila_ (Baby's Breath). --A plant of great daintiness, both infoliage and flowers. Always in demand for cut-flower work. White andpink. 

_Kochia_ (Burning Bush--Mexican Fire-plant). --A very desirable plant, ofsymmetrical, compact habit. Rich green throughout the summer, butturning to dark red in fall. Fine for low hedges and for scatteringthrough the border wherever there happens to be a vacancy. 

_Larkspur. _--Another old-fashioned flower of decided merit. 

_Marigold. _--An old favorite that richly deserves a place in all gardensbecause of its rich colors, free blooming qualities and ease of culture. 

_Nasturtium. _--Too well known to need description here. Everybody oughtto grow it. Unsurpassed in garden decoration and equally as valuable forcutting. Blooms throughout the entire season. Does well in a rather poorsoil. In a very rich soil it makes a great growth of branches at theexpense of blossoms. 

_Pansy. _--Not an annual, but generally treated as such. A universalfavorite that almost everybody grows. If flowers of a particular colorare desired I would advise buying blooming seedlings from the florist, as one can never tell what he is going to get if he depends on seed ofhis own sowing. The flowers will be as fine as those from selectedvarieties, but there will be such a medley of colors that one sometimestires of the effect. I have always received the most pleasure fromplanting distinct colors, like the yellows, the blues, the whites, andthe purples, and the only way in which I can make sure of getting justthe colors I want is to tell the florist about them, and instruct him tosend me those colors when his seedlings come into bloom. 

_Petunia. _--Another of the "stand-bys. " A plant that can always bedepended on. Very free bloomer, very profuse, and very showy. If the oldplants that have blossomed through the summer begin to look ragged andunsightly, cut away the entire top. In a short time new shoots will besent out from the stump of the old plant, and almost before you know itthe plant will have renewed itself, and be blooming as freely as when itwas young. Fine for massing. 

_Phlox Drummondi. _--One of our most satisfactory annuals. Any one cangrow it. It begins to bloom when small, and improves with age. Comes ina wide range of colors, some brilliant, others delicate--all beautiful. Charming effects are easily secured by planting the pale rose, purewhite, and soft yellow varieties together, either in rows or circles. The contrast will be fine, and the harmony perfect. Other colors aredesirable, but they do not all combine well. It is a good plan to usewhite varieties freely, as these heighten the effect of the strongcolors. I always buy seed in which each color is by itself, as a mixtureof red, crimson, lilac, and violet in the same bed is never pleasing tome. 

_Poppy. _--Brilliant and beautiful. Unrivalled for midsummer show. Asthis plant is of little value after its early flowering period is over, other annuals can be planted in the bed with it, to take its place. Setthese plants about the middle of July, and when they begin to bloom pullup the Poppies. The Shirley strain includes some of the loveliest colorsimaginable. Its flowers have petals that seem cut from satin. Thelarge-flowered varieties are quite as ornamental as Peonies, as long asthey last. 

_Portulacca. _--Low grower, spreading until the surface of the bed iscovered with the dark green carpet of its peculiar foliage. Flowers bothsingle and double, of a great variety of colors. Does well in hotlocations, and in poor soil. Of the easiest culture. 

_Scabiosa. _--Very fine. Especially for cutting. Colors dark purple, maroon, and white. 

_Salpiglossis. _--A free-blooming plant, of very brilliant coloring andstriking variegation. Really freakish in its peculiar markings. 

_Stock_ (Gillyflower). --A plant of great merit. Flowers of the doublevarieties are like miniature Roses, in spikes. Very fragrant. Fine forcutting. Blooms until frost comes. Red, pink, purple, white, and paleyellow. The single varieties are not desirable, and as soon as aseedling plant shows single flowers, pull it up. 

_Sweet Pea. _--This grand flower needs no description. It is one of theplants we _must_ have. 

_Verbena. _--Old, but none the worse for that. A free and constantbloomer, of rich and varied coloring. Habit low and spreading. One ofthe best plants we have for low beds, under the sitting-room windows. Keep the faded flowers cut off, and at midsummer cut away most of theold branches, and allow the plant to renew itself, as advised in thecase of the Petunia. 

_Wallflower. _--Not as much grown as it ought to be. Delightfullyfragrant. Color rich brown and tawny yellow. General habit similar tothat of Stock, of which it is a near relative. Late bloomer. Give it oneseason's trial and you will be delighted with it. Not as showy as mostflowers, but quite as beautiful, and the peer of any of them insweetness. 

_Zinnia. _--A robust plant of the easiest possible culture. Any one cangrow it, and it will do well anywhere. Grows to a height of three feetor more, branches freely, and close to the ground, and forms a dense, compact bush. On this account very useful for hedge purposes. Exceedingly profuse in its production of flowers. Blooms till frostcomes. Comes in almost all the colors of the rainbow. 

Because I have advised the amateur gardener to make his selection fromthe above list, it must not be understood that those of which I have notmade mention, but which will be found described in the catalogues of theflorist, are not desirable. Many of them might please the reader quiteas well, and possibly more, than any of the kinds I have spoken of. Butmost of them will require a treatment which the beginner in gardeningwill not be able to give them, and, on that account, I do not includethem in my list. After a year or two's experience in gardening, theamateur will be justified in attempting their culture--which, after all, is not difficult if one has time to give them special attention and asufficient amount of care. The kinds I have advised are such asvirtually take care of themselves, after they get well under way, ifweeds are kept away from them. They are the kinds for "everybody'sgarden. "

Let me add, in concluding this chapter, that it is wisdom on the part ofthe amateur to select not more than a dozen of the kinds that appealmost forcibly to him, and concentrate his attention on them. Aim to growthem to perfection by giving them the best of care. A garden ofwell-grown plants, though limited in variety, will afford a hundredfoldmore pleasure to the owner of it than a garden containing a little ofeverything, and nothing well grown. 

In purchasing seed, patronize a dealer whose reputation for honesty andreliability is such that he would not dare to send out anything inferiorif he were inclined to do so. There are many firms that advertise thebest of seed at very low prices. Look out for them. I happen to knowthat our old and most reputable seedsmen make only a reasonable profiton the seed they sell. Other dealers who cut under in price can onlyafford to do so because they do not exercise the care and attentionwhich the reliable seedsman does in growing his stock, hence theirexpenses are less. Cheap seed will be found cheap in all senses of theterm. 

I want to lay special emphasis on the advisability of purchasing seedin which each color is by itself. The objection is often urged that oneperson seldom cares to use as many plants of one color as can be grownfrom a package of seed. This difficulty is easily disposed of. Club withyour neighbors, and divide the seed between you when it comes. In thisway you will secure the most satisfactory results and pay no more foryour seed than you would if you were to buy "mixed" packages. Growcolors separately for a season and I am quite sure you will never goback to mixed seed. 

THE BULB GARDEN

Every lover of flowers should have a garden of bulbs, for three reasons:First, they bloom so early in the season that one can have flowers atleast six weeks longer than it is possible to have them if onlyperennial and annual plants are depended on. Some bulbs come into bloomas soon as the snow is gone, at the north, to be followed by those oflater habit, and a constant succession of bloom can be secured by ajudicious selection of varieties, thus completely tiding over theusually flowerless period between the going of winter and the coming ofthe earlier spring flowers. Second, they require but little care, muchless than the ordinary plant. Give them a good soil to grow in, and keepweeds and grass from encroaching on them, and they will ask no otherattention from you, except when, because of a multiplication of bulbs, they need to be separated and reset, which will be about every thirdyear. The work required in doing this is no more than that involved inspading up a bed for annual flowers. Third, they are so hardy, even atthe extreme north, that one can be sure of bloom from them if they aregiven a good covering in fall, which is a very easy matter to do. 

For richness and variety of color this class of plants standsunrivalled. The bulb garden is more brilliant than the garden of annualswhich succeeds it. 

September is the proper month in which to make the bulb garden. 

As a general thing, persons fail to plant their bulbs until October andoften November, thinking the time of planting makes very littledifference so long as they are put into the ground before winter setsin. Here is where a serious mistake is made. Early planting shouldalways be the rule, --for this reason: Bulbs make their annual growthimmediately after flowering, and ripen off by midsummer. After this, they remain dormant until fall, when new root-growth takes place, andthe plant gets ready for the work that will be demanded of it as soon asspring opens. It is made during the months of October and November, ifcold weather does not set in earlier, and should be fully completedbefore the ground freezes. If incomplete--as is always the case whenlate planting is done--the plants are obliged to do--or attempt todo--double duty in spring. That is, the completion of the work leftundone in fall and the production of flowers must go on at the sametime, and this is asking too much of the plant. It cannot produce fine, perfect flowers with a poorly-developed root-system to supply thestrength and nutriment needed for such a task, therefore the plants arenot in a condition to do themselves justice. Often late-planted bulbsfail to produce any flowers, and, in most instances, the few flowersthey do give are small and inferior in all respects. 

With early-planted bulbs it is quite different, because they had all thelate fall-season to complete root-growth in, and when winter closed init found them ready for the work of spring. 

Therefore, do not neglect the making of your bulb garden until winter isat hand under the impression that if the bulbs are planted any timebefore snow comes, all is well. This is the worst mistake you couldpossibly make. 

The catalogues of the bulb-dealers will be sent out about the first ofSeptember. Send in your order for the kinds you decide on planting atonce, and as soon as your order has gone, set about preparing the placein which you propose to plant them. Have everything in readiness forthem when they arrive, and put them into the ground as soon after theyare received as possible. 

The soil in which bulbs should be planted cannot be too carefullyprepared, as much of one's success with these plants depends upon thismost important item. It must be rich, and it must be fine and mellow. 

The best soil in which to set bulbs is a sandy loam. 

The best fertilizer is old, thoroughly rotted cow-manure. On no accountshould fresh manure be used. Make use, if possible, of that which isblack from decomposition, and will crumble readily under the applicationof the hoe, or iron rake. One-third in bulk of this material is not toomuch. Bulbs are great eaters, and unless they are well fed you cannotexpect large crops of fine flowers from them. And they must be wellsupplied with nutritious food each year, because the crop of next seasondepends largely upon the nutriment stored up this season. 

If barnyard manure is not obtainable, substitute bonemeal. Use the finemeal, in the proportion of a pound to each yard square of surface. More, if the soil happens to be a poor one. If the soil is heavy with clay, add sand enough to lighten it, if possible. 

The ideal location for bulbs is one that is naturally well drained, andhas a slope to the south. 

Unless drainage is good success cannot be expected, as nothing injures abulb more than water about its roots. Therefore, if you do not have aplace suitable for them so far as natural drainage is concerned, see toit that artificial drainage supplies what is lacking. Spade up the bedto the depth of a foot and a half. That is--throw the soil out of it tothat depth, --and put into the bottom of the excavation at least fourinches of material that will not decay readily, like broken brick, pottery, clinkers from the coal-stove, coarse gravel--anything that willbe permanent and allow water to run off through the cracks and crevicesin it, thus securing a system of drainage that will answer all purposesperfectly. It is of the utmost importance that this should be done onall heavy soils. Unless the water from melting snows and early springrains drains away from the bulbs readily you need not expect flowersfrom them. 

After having arranged for drainage, work over the soil thrown out of thebed until it is as fine and mellow as it can possibly be made. Mixwhatever fertilizer you make use of with it, when you do this, that thetwo may be thoroughly incorporated. Then return it to the bed. Therewill be more than enough to fill the bed, because some space is given upto drainage material, but this will be an advantage because it willenable you to so round up the surface that water will run off before ithas time to soak into the soil to much depth. 

I do not think it advisable to say much about plans for bulb-beds, because comparatively few persons seem inclined to follow instructionsalong this line. The less formal a bed of this kind is the bettersatisfaction it will give, as a general thing. It is the flower that isin the bed that should be depended on to give pleasure rather than theshape of the bed containing it. 

I would advise locating bulb-beds near the house where they can beeasily seen from the living-room windows. These beds can be utilizedlater on for annuals, which can be sown or planted above the bulbswithout interfering with them in any respect. 

I would never advise mixing bulbs. By that, I mean, planting Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils, and other kinds in the same bed. They will notharmonize in color or habit. Each kind will be found vastly morepleasing when kept by itself. 

I would also advise keeping each color by itself, unless you are surethat harmony will result from a mixture or combination of colors. Pinkand white, blue and white, and red and white Hyacinths look well whenplanted together, but a jumble of pinks, blues, and reds is never aspleasing as the same colors would be separately, or where each color isrelieved by white. 

The same rule applies to Tulips, with equal force. 

We often see pleasing effects that have been secured by planting redsand blues in rows, alternating with rows of white. This method keeps thequarrelsome colors apart, and affords sufficient contrast to heightenthe general effect. Still, there is a formality about it which is notentirely satisfactory to the person who believes that the flower is offirst importance, and the shape of the bed, or the arrangement of theflowers in the bed, is a matter of secondary consideration. 

Bulbs should be put into the ground as soon as possible after beingtaken from the package in which they are sent out by the florist. Ifexposed to the light and air for any length of time they part rapidlywith the moisture contained in their scales, and that means a loss ofvitality. If it is not convenient to plant them at once, leave them inthe package, or put them in some cool, dark place until you are ready touse them. 

As a rule Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus should be planted about fiveinches deep, and about six inches apart. 

The smaller bulbs should be put from three to four inches below thesurface and about the same distance apart. 

In planting, make a hole with a blunt stick of the depth desired, anddrop the bulb into it. Then cover, and press the soil down firmly. 

Just before the ground is likely to freeze, cover the bed with a coarselitter from the barnyard, if obtainable, to a depth of eight or teninches. If this litter is not to be had, hay or straw will answer verywell, if packed down somewhat. Leaves make an excellent covering if onecan get enough of them. If they are used, four inches in depth of themwill be sufficient. Put evergreen boughs or wire netting over them toprevent their being blown away. 

I frequently receive letters from inexperienced bulb-growers, in whichthe writers express considerable scepticism about the value of such acovering as I have advised above, because, they say, it is not deepenough to keep out the frost, therefore it might as well be dispensedwith. Keeping out the frost is not what is aimed at. We expect the soilabout the bulbs to freeze. But such a covering as has been advised willprevent the sun from thawing out the frost after it gets into the soil, and this is exactly what we desire. For if the frost can be kept in, after it has taken possession, there will not be that frequentalternation between freezing and thawing which does the harm to theplant. For it is not freezing, understand, that is responsible for themischief, but the _alternation of conditions_. These cause a rupture ofplant-cells, and that is what does the harm. Keep a comparatively tenderplant frozen all winter and allow the frost to be drawn out of itgradually in spring, and it will survive a season of unusual cold. Thesame plant will be sure to die in a mild season if left exposed to theaction of the elements, because of frequent and rapid changes betweenheat and cold. 

Whatever covering is given should be left on the beds as long aspossible in spring, because of the severely cold weather we frequentlyhave at the north after we think all danger is over. However, as soon asthe plants begin to make much growth, this covering will have to beremoved. If a cold night comes along after this has been done spreadblankets or carpeting over the beds. Keep them from resting on thetender growth of the plants by driving pegs into the soil a shortdistance apart, all over the bed. The young plants may not be killed byquite a severe freeze, but they will be injured by it, and injury of anykind should be guarded against at this season, if you want fine flowers. 

[Illustration: BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES]

Holland Hyacinths should receive first consideration, because they areless likely to disappoint than any other hardy bulb. There are singleand double kinds, both desirable. Personally I prefer the single sorts, as they are less prim and formal than the double varieties, whoseflowers are so thickly set along the stalk that individuality of bloomis almost wholly lost sight of. They are, in this respect, like thedouble Geraniums we use in summer bedding, whose trusses of bloomresemble a ball of color more than anything else, at a little distance, the suggestion of individual bloom being so slight that it seldomreceives consideration. However, they do good service wherecolor-effects are considered of more importance than anything else. Single Hyacinths have their flowers more loosely arranged along thestalk, and are therefore more graceful than the double varieties, andtheir colors are quite as fine. These range from pure white throughpale pink and rose, red, scarlet, crimson, blue and charming yellows todark purple. 

Roman Hyacinths are too tender for outdoor culture at the north. 

There are several quite distinct varieties of the Tulip. There is anearly sort, a medium one, a late one, and the Parrot, which is prizedmore for its striking combinations of brilliant colors than for itsbeauty of form or habit. We have single and double varieties in all theclasses, all coming in a wide range of both rich and delicate colors. Scarlets, crimsons, and yellows predominate, but the pure whites, thepale rose-colors, and the rich purples are general favorites. Some ofthe variegated varieties are exceedingly brilliant in their strikingcolor-combinations. 

The Narcissus is one of the loveliest flowers we have. It deserves aplace very near, if not quite at, the head of the list of our bestspring-blooming plants. Nothing can be richer in color than the largedouble sorts, like _Horsfieldii_, and _Empress_, with their petals ofburnished gold. There are many other varieties equally as fine, but witha little difference in the way of color--just enough to make one want tohave all of them. The good old-fashioned Daffodil is an honored memberof the family that should be found in every garden. When you see theDandelion's gleam of gold in the grass by the wayside you get a goodidea of the brilliant display a fine collection of Narcissus is capableof making, for in richness of color these two flowers are almostidentical. 

Among the smaller bulbs that deserve special mention are the Crocus, theSnow Drop, the Scilla, and the Musk or Grape Hyacinth. These should beplanted in groups, to be most effective, and set close together. Theymust be used in large quantities to produce much of a show. They arevery cheap, and a good-sized collection can be had for a small amount ofmoney. 

Those who have a liking for special colors will do well to make theirselections from the named varieties listed in the catalogues. You candepend on getting just the color you want, if you order in this way. Butin no other way. Mixed collection will give you some of all colors, butthere is no way of telling "which is which" until they come into bloom. 

But in mixed collections you will get just as fine bulbs and just asfine colors as you will if you select from the list of named varieties. Only--you won't know what you are getting. Named sorts will costconsiderable more than the mixtures. 

THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE AND CULTURE

The owner of every garden tries to grow roses in it, but where onesucceeds, ten fail. Perhaps I would be safe in saying that ninety-nineout of every hundred fail, for a few inferior blossoms from a plant, each season, do not constitute success, but that is what the majority ofamateur Rose-growers have to be satisfied with, the country over, and sogreat is their admiration for this most beautiful of all flowers thatthese few blossoms encourage them to keep on, season after season, hoping for better things, and consoling themselves with the thoughtthat, though results fall short of expectation, they are doing about aswell as their neighbors in this particular phase of gardening. 

One does not have to seek far for the causes of failure. The Rose, whileit is common everywhere, and has been in cultivation for centuries, isnot understood by the rank and file of those who attempt to grow it, therefore it is not given the treatment it deserves, _and which it musthave, _ in order to achieve success in its culture. When we come to knowits requirements, and give it proper care, we can grow fine Roses, butnot till then. Those who form an opinion of the possibilities of theplant from the specimens which they see growing in the average gardenhave yet to find out what a really fine Rose is. 

The Rose is the flower of romance and sentiment throughout the lands inwhich it grows, but, for all that, it is not a sentimental flower inmany respects. It is a vegetable epicure. It likes rich food, and greatquantities of it. Unless it can be gratified in this respect it willrefuse to give you the large, fine flowers which every Rose-grower, professional or amateur, is constantly striving after. But feed itaccording to its liking and it will give you perfect flowers in greatquantities, season after season, and _then_ you will understand whatthis plant can do when given an opportunity to do itself justice. 

The Rose will live on indefinitely in almost any soil, and under almostany conditions. I have frequently found it growing in old, desertedgardens, almost choked out of existence by weeds and other aggressiveplants, but still holding to life with a persistency that seemedwonderful in a plant of its kind. I have removed some of these plants tomy own garden, and given them good care, and time after time I have beenas surprised as delighted at the result. The poor little bushes, thathad held so tenaciously to life against great odds, seemed to havestored up more vitality in their starved roots than any others in thegarden were possessors of, and as soon as they were given good soil andproper care they sent up strong, rank shoots, and thanked me for mykindness to them in wonderful crops of flowers, and really put the oldresidents of the place to shame. All through the years of neglect theyhad no doubt been yearning to bud and bloom, but were unable to do sobecause of unfavorable conditions, but when the opportunity to assertthemselves came they made haste to take advantage of it in a way thatproves how responsive flowers are to the right kind of treatment. 

The Rose will only do its best in a soil that is rather heavy with clay, or a tenacious loam. It likes to feel the earth firm about its roots. Inlight, loose soils it never does well, though it frequently makes avigorous growth of branches in them, but it is from a more compact soilthat we get the most and finest flowers. 

[Illustration: HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE]

Some varieties do well in a soil of clay containing considerable gravel. Such a soil provides for the roots the firmness of which I have spoken, while the gravel insures perfect drainage, --a matter of great importancein Rose-culture. Success cannot be expected in a soil unduly retentiveof moisture. Very heavy soils can be lightened by the addition ofcoarse, sharp sand, old mortar, and cinders. If the location chosen doesnot furnish perfect drainage, naturally, artificial drainage must beresorted to. Make an excavation at least a foot and a half in depth, andfill in, at the bottom, with bits of broken brick, crockery, coarsegravel, fine stone--anything that will not readily decay--and thussecure a stratum of porous material through which the superfluousmoisture in the soil will readily drain away. This is an item inRose-culture that one cannot afford to ignore, if he desires fine Roses. 

A rich soil must be provided for the plants in order to secure goodresults. This, also, is a matter of the greatest importance. The idealfertilizer is old, well-rotted cow-manure--so old that it is black, andso rotten that it will crumble at the touch of the hoe. On no accountshould fresh manure be used. If old manure cannot be obtained, substitute finely-ground bonemeal, in the proportion of a pound to asmuch soil as you think would fill a bushel-basket, on a rough estimate. But by all means use the cow-manure if it can possibly be procured, asnothing else suits the Rose so well. It will be safe to use it in theproportion of a third to the bulk of earth in which you plant yourRoses. Whatever fertilizer is used should be thoroughly worked into thesoil before the plants are set out. See that all lumps are pulverized. If this is not done, there is danger of looseness about some of theroots at planting-time, and this is a thing to guard against, especiallywith young plants. 

Location should be taken into consideration, always. Choose, ifpossible, one that has an exposure to the sunshine of the morning andthe middle of the day. A western exposure is a great deal better thannone, but the heat of it is generally so intense that few Roses can longretain their freshness in it. Something can be done, however, to temperthe extreme heat of it by planting shrubs where they will shade theplants from noon till three o'clock. 

Care must be taken, in the choice of a location, to guard againstdrafts. If Roses are planted where a cold wind from the east or northcan blow over the bed, look out for trouble. Plan for a screen ofevergreens, if the bed is to be a permanent one. If temporary only, setup some boards to protect the plants from getting chilled untilquick-growing annuals can be made to take their place. I have found thatmildew on Rose-bushes is traceable, nine times out of ten, to exposureto cold drafts, and that few varieties are strong enough to withstandthe effects of repeated attacks of it. The harm done by it can bemitigated, to some extent, by applications of flowers of sulphur, dustedover the entire plant while moist with dew, but it will not do to dependon this remedy. Remove the cause of trouble and there will be no need ofany application. 

Because the Rose is so beautiful, when in full bloom, quite naturally welike to plant it where its beauty can be seen to the best advantage. ButI would not advise giving it a place on the lawn, or in the front yard. When plants are in bloom, people will look only at their flowers, andwhatever drawbacks there are about the bush will not be noticed. Butafter the flowering period is over, the bushes will come in forinspection, and then it will be discovered that a Rose-bush withoutblossoms is not half as attractive as most other shrubs are. We prune itback sharply in our efforts to get the finest possible flowers from it, thus making it impossible to have luxuriance of branch or foliage. Wethin it until there is not enough left of it to give it the dignity of ashrub. In short, as ornamental shrubs, Roses are failures with theexception of a few varieties, and these are not kinds in generalcultivation. This being the case, it is advisable to locate the Rose-bedwhere it will not be greatly in evidence after the flowering season isended. But try to have it where its glories can be enjoyed by theoccupants of the home. Not under, or close to, the living-room windows, for that space should be reserved for summer flowers, but where it willbe in full view, if possible, from the kitchen as well as the parlor. The flowering period of the Rose is so short that we must contrive toget the greatest possible amount of pleasure out of it, and in order todo that we want it where we can see it at all times. 

Very few of our best Roses are really hardy, though most of theflorists' catalogues speak of them as being so. Many kinds lose thegreater share of their branches during the winter, unless given goodprotection. Their roots, however, are seldom injured so severely thatthey will not send up a stout growth of new branches during the season, but this is not what we want. We want _Roses_, --lots of them, --and inorder to have them we must contrive, in some way, to save as many ofthe last year's branches as possible. Fortunately, this can be donewithout a great deal of trouble. 

Here is my method of winter protection: Late in fall--generally aboutthe first of November, or whenever there are indications that winter isabout to close in upon us--I bend the bushes to the ground, and coverthem with dry earth, leaves, litter from the barn, or evergreenbranches. In doing this I am not aiming to keep the frost away from theplants, as might be supposed, but rather to prevent the sun from gettingat the soil and thawing the frost that has taken possession of it. Scientific investigation has proven that a plant, though comparativelytender, is not seriously injured by freezing, if it can be _kept frozen_until the frost is extracted from it _naturally_, --that is, graduallyand according to natural processes. It is the frequent alternation offreezing and thawing that does the harm. Therefore, if you have a tenderRose that you want to carry over winter in the open ground, give itample protection as soon as the frost has got at it--before it has achance to thaw out--and you can be reasonably sure of its coming throughin spring in good condition. What I mean by the term "ample protection"is--a covering of one kind or another that will _shade_ the plant andcounteract the influence of the sun upon the frozen soil--not, as mostamateurs seem to think, for the purpose of keeping the soil warm. I havealready made mention of this scientific fact, and may do it againbecause it is a matter little understood, but is one of the greatestimportance, hence my frequent reference to it. 

If earth is used as a covering, it should be dry, and after it is puton, boards, or something that will turn rain and water should be putover it. Old oil-cloth is excellent for this purpose. Canvas that hasbeen given a coating of paint is good. Tarred sheathing-paper answersthe purpose very well. Almost anything will do that prevents the earthfrom getting saturated with water, which, if allowed to stand among thebranches, will prove quite as harmful as exposure to the fluctuations ofwinter weather. If leaves are used, --and these make an ideal covering ifyou can get enough of them, --they can be kept in place by laying coarsewire netting over them. Or evergreen branches can be used to keep thewind from blowing them away. These branches alone will be sufficientprotection for the hardier kinds, such as Harrison's Yellow, Provence, Cabbage, and the Mosses, anywhere south of New York. North of thatlatitude I would not advise depending on so slight a protection. Earth-covering is preferable for the northern section of the UnitedStates. 

[Illustration: ROSE TRELLIS]

It is no easy matter to get sturdy Rose-bushes ready for winter. Theircanes are stiff and brittle. Their thorns are formidable. One person, working alone, cannot do the entire work to advantage. It needs one tobend the bushes down and hold them in that position while the otherapplies the covering. In bending the bush, great care must be taken toprevent its being broken, or cracked, close to the ground. Provideyourself with gloves of substantial leather or thick canvas before youtackle them. Then take hold of the cane close to the ground, with theleft hand, holding it firmly, grasp the upper part of it with the righthand, and proceed gently and cautiously with the work until you have itflat on the ground. If your left-hand grasp is a firm one, you can feelthe bush yielding by degrees, and this is what you should be governedby. On no account work so rapidly that you do not feel the resistance ofthe branch giving way in a manner that assures you that it is adjustingitself safely to the force that is being applied to it. When you haveit on the ground, you will have to hold it there until it is coveredwith earth, unless you prefer to weight it down with something heavyenough to keep it in place while you cover it. Omit the weights, orrelax your grip upon it, and the elastic branches will immediatelyspring back to their normal position. Sometimes, when a bush isstubbornly stiff, and refuses to yield without danger of injury, it iswell to heap a pailful or two of earth against it, on the side towardwhich it is to be bent, thus enabling you to _curve_ it over theheaped-up soil in such a manner as to avoid a sharp bend. Never hurrywith this work. Take your time for it, and do it thoroughly, andthoroughness means carefulness, always. As a general thing, six or eightinches of dry soil will be sufficient covering for Roses at the north. If litter is used, the covering can be eight or ten inches deep. 

Do not apply any covering early in the season, as so many do for thesake of "getting the work out of the way. " Wait until you are reasonablysure that cold weather is setting in. 

Teas, and the Bourbon and Bengal sections of the so-calledever-bloomers, are most satisfactorily wintered in the open ground bymaking a pen of boards about them, at least ten inches deep, andfilling it with leaves, packing them firmly over the laid-down plants. Then cover with something to shed rain. These very tender sorts cannotalways be depended on to come through the winter safely at the north, even when given the best of protection, but where one has a bed of themthat has afforded pleasure throughout the entire summer, quite naturallyhe dislikes to lose them if there is a possibility of saving them, andhe will be willing to make an effort to carry them through the winter. If only part of them are saved, he will feel amply repaid for all histrouble. Generally all the old top will have to be cut away, but thatdoes not matter with Roses of this class, as vigorous shoots will besent up, early in the season, if the roots are alive, therefore littleor no harm is done by the entire removal of the old growth. 

The best Roses to plant are those grown by reliable dealers whounderstand how to grow vigorous stock, and who are too honest to give aplant a wrong name. Some unscrupulous dealers, whose supply of plants islimited to a few of the kinds easiest to grow, will fill any order yousend them, and your plants will come to you labelled to correspond withyour order. But when they come into bloom, you may find that you havegot kinds that you did not order, and did not care for. The honestdealer never plays this trick on his customers. If he hasn't the kindsyou order, he will tell you so. Therefore, before ordering, try to findout who the honest dealers are, and give no order to any firm not wellrecommended by persons in whose opinion you have entire confidence. There are scores of such firms, but they do not advertise as extensivelyas the newer ones, because they have many old customers who do theiradvertising for them by "speaking good words" in their favor to friendswho need anything in their line. 

I would advise purchasing two-year-old plants, always. They have muchstronger roots than those of the one-year-old class, and will give afairly good crop of flowers the first season, as a general thing. Andwhen one sets out a new Rose, he is always in a hurry to see "what itlooks like. "

Be sure to buy plants on their own roots. It is claimed by many growersthat many varieties of the Rose do better when grafted on vigorous stockthan they do on their own roots, and this is doubtless true. But it isalso true that the stock of these kinds can be increased more rapidly bygrafting than from cuttings, and, because of this, many dealers resortto this method of securing a supply of salable plants. It is money intheir pockets to do so. But it is an objectionable plan, because thescion of a choice variety grafted to a root of an inferior kind is quitelikely to die off, and when this happens you have a worthless plant. Strong and vigorous branches may be sent up from the root, but from themyou will get no flowers, because the root from which they spring is thatof a non-flowering sort. Many persons cannot understand why it is thatplants so luxuriant in growth fail to bloom, but when they discover thatthis growth comes from the root _below where the graft was inserted_, the mystery is explained to them. When grafted plants are used, caremust be taken to remove every shoot that appears about the plant _unlessit is sent out above the graft_. If the shoots that are sent up from_below_ the graft are allowed to remain, the grafted portion will soondie off, because these shoots from the root of the variety upon which itwas "worked" will speedily rob it of vitality and render it worthless. All this risk is avoided by planting only kinds which are grown upontheir own roots. 

In planting Roses, make the hole in which they are to be set largeenough to admit of spreading out their roots evenly and naturally. Letit be deep enough to bring the roots about the same distance below thesurface as the plant shows them to have been before it was taken fromthe nursery row. When the roots are properly straightened out, fill inabout them with fine soil, and firm it down well, and then add two orthree inches more of soil, after which at least a pailful of watershould be applied to each plant, to thoroughly settle the soil betweenand about the roots. Avoid loose planting if you want your plants to geta good start, and do well. When all the soil has been returned to thehole, add a mulch of coarse manure to prevent too rapid evaporation ofmoisture while the plants are putting forth new feeding roots. 

If large-rooted plants are procured from the nursery, quite likely someof the larger roots will be injured by the spade in lifting them fromthe row. Look over these roots carefully, and cut off the ends of allthat have been bruised, before planting. A smooth cut will heal readily, but a ragged one will not. 

We have several classes or divisions of Roses adapted to culture at thenorth. The June Roses are those which give a bountiful crop of flowersat the beginning of summer, but none thereafter. This class includesthe Provence, the Mosses, the Scotch and Austrian kinds, Harrison'sYellow, Madame Plantier, and the climbers. 

[Illustration: RAMBLER ROSES]

The Hybrid Perpetuals bloom profusely in early summer, and sparinglythereafter, at intervals, until the coming of cold weather. These are, in many respects, the most beautiful of all Roses. 

The ever-bloomers are made up of Bengal, Bourbon, Tea and Noisettevarieties. These are small in habit of growth, but exquisitely beautifulin form and color, and most kinds are so delightfully fragrant, andflower so freely from June to the coming of cold weather, that no gardenshould be without a bed of them. 

The Rugosa Roses are more valuable as shrubs than as flowering plants, though their large, bright, single flowers are extremely attractive. Their chief attraction is their beautifully crinkled foliage, of a richgreen, and their bright crimson fruit which is retained throughout theseason. This class gives flowers, at intervals, from June to October. 

Hybrid Perpetuals must be given special treatment in order to secureflowers from them throughout the season. Their blossoms are alwaysproduced on new growth, therefore, if you would keep them producingflowers, you must keep them growing. This is done by feeding the plantliberally, and cutting back the branches upon which flowers have beenproduced to a strong bud from which a new branch can be developed. Inthis way we keep the plant constantly renewing itself, and in theprocess of renewal we are likely to get a good many flowers where wewould get few, or none, if we were to let the plant take care of itself. The term "perpetual" is, however, a misleading one, as it suggests aconstant production of flowers. Most varieties of this class, as hasbeen said, will bloom occasionally, after the first generous crop of theseason, but never very freely, and often not at all unless the treatmentoutlined above is carefully followed. But so beautiful are the Roses ofthis class that one fine flower is worth a score of ordinary blossoms, and the lover of the Rose will willingly devote a good deal of time andlabor to the production of it. 

[Illustration: DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE--THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS]

The Ramblers, now so popular, constitute a class by themselves, in manyrespects. They are of wonderfully vigorous habit, have a score or moreof flowers where others have but one bloom early in the season, and givea wonderful show of color. The individual blossoms are too small toplease the critical Rose-grower, but there are so many in each cluster, and these clusters are so numerous, that the general effect is mostcharming. Crimson Rambler is too well known to need description. Thevariety that deserves a place at the very head of the list, allowing meto be judge, is Dorothy Perkins. This variety is of slenderer growththan Crimson Rambler, therefore of more vine-like habit, and, on thisaccount, better adapted to use about porches and verandas, where it canbe trained along the cornice in a graceful fashion that thestiff-branched Crimson Rambler will not admit of. Its foliage is not solarge as that of the other variety named, but it is much moreattractive, being finely cut, and having a glossy surface that adds muchto the beauty of the plant. But the chief charm of the plant is its softpink flowers, dainty and delicate in the extreme. These are produced inlong, loose sprays instead of crowded clusters, thus making the effectof a plant in full bloom vastly more graceful than that of any of theothers of the class. 

Roses have their enemies, and it would seem as if there must be somesort of understanding among them as to the date of attack, becausenearly all of them put in an appearance at about the same time. Theaphis I find no difficulty in keeping down by the use of Nicoticide--avery strongly concentrated extract of the nicotine principle of tobacco. This should be diluted with water, as directed on the cans or bottles inwhich it is put up, and applied to all parts of the bush with a sprayer. Do not wait for the aphis to appear before beginning warfare againsthim. You can count on his coming, therefore it is well to act on theoffensive, instead of the defensive, for it is an easier matter to keephim away altogether than it is to get rid of him after he has takenpossession of your bushes. If he finds the tang of Nicoticide clingingto the foliage on his arrival, he will speedily conclude that it will bemade extremely uncomfortable for him, if he decides to locate, and hewill look for more congenial quarters elsewhere. 

For the worm that does so much injury to our plants at the time whenthey are just getting ready to bloom, I use an emulsion made by addingtwo quarts kerosene to one part of laundry soap. The soap should bereduced to a liquid, and allowed to become very hot, before the oil isadded. Then agitate the two rapidly and forcibly until they unite in ajelly-like substance. The easiest and quickest way to secure anemulsion is by using a brass syringe such as florists sprinkle theirplants with. Insert it in the vessel containing the oil and soap, anddraw into it as much of the liquids as it will contain, and then expelthem with as much force as possible, and continue to do this until thedesired union has taken place. Use one part of the emulsion to eight orten parts water, and make sure it reaches every portion of the bush. 

In Rose-culture, as in every branch of floriculture, the price ofsuccess is constant vigilance. If you do not get the start of insectenemies, and keep them under control, they will almost invariably ruinyour crop of flowers, and often the bushes themselves. Therefore bethorough and persistent in the warfare waged against the common enemy, and do not relax your efforts until he is routed. 

In making a selection of Hybrid Perpetuals for home planting, theamateur finds it difficult to choose from the long lists sent out bymany dealers. He wants the best and most representative of the class, but he doesn't know which these are. If I were asked to select a dozenkinds, my choice would be the following:

Alfred Colomb. Bright crimson. Fragrant. 

Anna de Diesbach. Carmine. Fragrant. 

Baroness Rothschild. Soft pink. 

Captain Hayward. Deep rose. Perfect in form. 

Frau Carl Druschki. Pure white. 

General Jacqueminot. Brilliant crimson. Very sweet. 

Jules Margottin. Rosy crimson. 

Mabel Morrison. White, delicately shaded with blush. 

Magna Charta. Glowing carmine. A lovely flower. 

Madame Gabriel de Luizet. Delicate pink. Exquisite. 

Mrs. John Laing. Soft pink. Very fragrant. 

Ulrich Brunner. Bright cherry red. 

To increase the above list would be to duplicate colors, for nearly allthe other kinds included in the dealers' lists are variations of thedistinctive qualities of the above. The twelve named will give you morepleasure than a larger number of less distinctive kinds would, for ineach merit stands out pre-eminent, and all the best qualities of thebest Roses are represented in the list. 

THE ROSE AS A SUMMER BEDDER

The amateur gardener may enjoy Roses from June to November if he iswilling to take a little trouble for them. Not, however, with thematerial treated of in the chapter on "The Rose"--though what is saidin it relative to the culture of the Hybrid Perpetual class applies withconsiderable pertinence to the classes of which I shall make specialmention in this chapter--but with the summer-blooming sorts, such as theTeas, the Bengals, the Bourbons, and the Noisettes. These are classed inthe catalogues as ever-bloomers, and the term is much more appropriateto them than the term Hybrid Perpetual is to that section of the greatRose family, for all of the four classes named above _are_ reallyever-bloomers if given the right kind of treatment--that is, bloomersthroughout the summer season. In them we find material from which it iseasy to secure a constant supply of flowers from the beginning ofsummer to the closing in of winter. 

In order to grow this class of Roses well, one must understand somethingof their habits. They send out strong branches from the base of theplant, shortly after planting, and these branches will generally bearfrom five to eight blossoms. When all the buds on the branch havedeveloped into flowers, nothing more can be expected from that branch inthe way of bloom, unless it can be coaxed to send out other branches. This it can be prevailed on to do by close pruning. Cut the old branchback to some point along its length--preferably near its base--wherethere is a strong "eye" or bud. If the soil is rich--and it can hardlybe _too rich_, for these Roses, like those of the kinds treated of inthe foregoing chapter, require strong food and a great deal of it inorder to do themselves justice--this bud will soon develop into avigorous branch which, like the original one, will bear a cluster offlowers. In order to keep a succession of bloom it is absolutelynecessary to keep the plant producing new branches, as flowers are onlyborne on new growth. It will be noticed that the treatment required bythese Roses is almost identical, so far, with that advised for theHybrid Perpetuals. Indeed, the latter are summer ever-bloomers of astronger habit than the class I am now speaking about. That is about allthe difference there is between them, up to this point, except asregards the flowering habit. The Hybrid Perpetual blooms profusely inJune and July, but sparingly thereafter, while the ever-bloomers bloomfreely all the season after they get a good start. 

Fertilizer should be applied at least once a month. Not in largequantities, each time, but enough to stimulate a strong and healthygrowth. The plants should be kept going ahead constantly. Let them get acheck, and you will find it a difficult matter to get many flowers fromthem after that, the same season. Give them the treatment that resultsin continuous growth and you will have Roses in abundance up to thecoming of cold weather. Of course plants so treated are not to beexpected to attain much size. But who cares for large bushes if he canhave fine flowers and plenty of them?

The blossoms from the Teas and their kindred are never as large as thoseof the June and the Hybrid Perpetual classes, and, as a general thing, are not as brilliant in color. Some are delightfully fragrant, whilesome have no fragrance at all. 

La France, --which is classed as a Hybrid Tea, because it is the resultof hybridizing one of the hardier varieties with a pure-blooded Teavariety, --is one of the finest Roses ever grown. It is large, and finein form, rich, though not brilliant, in color, is a very free bloomer, and its fragrance is indescribably sweet. Indeed, all the sweetness ofthe entire Rose family seems concentrated in its peculiar, powerful, but, at the same time, delicate odor. Color, pale pink. 

Duchess de Brabant is an old variety, popular years and years ago, butall the better for that, for its long-continued popularity proves it thepossessor of exceptional merit. It is of very free development, andbears large quantities of flowers of silvery pink. 

Viscountess Folkestone is, like La France, a Hybrid Tea. It is anexcellent bloomer. Its color is a soft pink, shaded with cream, withreflexed petals. It has a rich, June-Rose fragrance. 

Maman Cochet is, all things considered, one of the best of its class. Itblooms in wonderful profusion. It is a strong grower. Its color is abright pink, overlaid with silvery lustre. It is very double, and quiteas lovely in bud as in the expanded flower. 

[Illustration: TEA ROSE]

Hermosa is an old favorite. It is always in bloom when well caredfor. Its rich carmine-rose flowers are very double, and are produced inprodigal profusion. But it lacks the charm of fragrance. 

Caprice is a very peculiar variety. Its thick, waxen petals of rosycarmine are heavily blotched and striped with dark red, shading tocrimson. It is most pleasing when the flower begins to expand. 

Perle des Jardins is a most lovely Rose, of almost as rich a color asthe famous Marechal Neil, --a deep, glowing yellow, --lovely beyonddescription. It is a very free bloomer, and should be given a place inall collections. 

Sunset--another good bloomer--is a tawny yellow in color, flamed withfawn and coppery tints. It is an exquisite Rose. 

Clothilde Soupert does not properly belong to either of the four classesmentioned above, though of course closely related. It is catalogued as aPolyantha. Its habit is peculiar. It bears enormous quantities offlowers, with the greatest freedom of any Rose I have ever grown, butits blossoms are small, and are produced in clusters quite unlike thoseof the other members of the ever-blooming class. Indeed, its habit ofgrowth and flowering is quite like that of the Rambler varieties, on asmall scale. But, unlike the Ramblers, its flowers are very double. Theyare produced at the extremity of the new branches, in clusters offifteen to twenty and thirty. So many are there to each branch that youwill find it advisable to thin out half of them if you want perfectflowers. In color it is a delicate pink on first opening, fading toalmost white. At the centre of the flower it is a bright carmine. Givethis variety a trial and you will be delighted with it. 

It must not be understood that the above list includes all the desirablesorts adapted to general culture. It is simply a list of the mostdistinct varieties that respond satisfactorily to the treatmentoutlined, and from which the amateur gardener can expect the bestresults. There are scores of other varieties possessing exceptionalmerit, but many of them require the attention of the professional inorder to give satisfaction, and are not what I feel warranted inrecommending the amateur to undertake the culture of if large quantitiesof flowers are what he has in mind. Every one on the list given is astandard variety, and you will find that you have made no mistake inconfining your selection to it. 

I would advise the purchase of two-year-old plants. Younger plantsseldom bloom with much profusion the first season. 

Order your plants in April. Get them into the ground about the middle ofMay. Mulch the soil about them well. This will do away with thenecessity of watering if the season happens to prove a dry one. Inplanting, be governed by the directions given in the chapter on "TheRose. "

Try a bed of these ever-bloomers for a season and you will neverafterward be without them. Other flowers will rival them in brilliance, perhaps, and may require less attention, but--they will not be Roses!One fine Rose affords more pleasure to the lover of the best amongflowers than a whole garden full of ordinary blossoms can, and this iswhy I urge all flower-loving people to undertake the culture of theever-blooming class of Roses, for I know they will give greatersatisfaction than anything else you can grow. 

In fall, the plants can be taken up, packed away in boxes of earth, andkept in the cellar over winter. Cut away almost the entire top when theplants are lifted. All that one cares to carry through the winter is theroot of the plant. 

THE DAHLIA

Thirty or forty years ago the Dahlia was one of our popular flowers. That is, popular among those who aspired to "keep up with the times, "and grow all the new plants that had real merit in them. At that timebut one form of it was considered worth growing, and that was the verydouble, globular type of flower. The single varieties were looked uponas worthless. 

After a time the popularity of the flower waned for some reason hard toaccount for, except on the theory that there are fashions in flowers asin clothes. I presume that the true explanation is that we Americans areprone to run to extremes, and when we take up a plant and it becomes afavorite we overdo matters and tire of it because we see so much of it. Then we relegate it to the background for a time, and after awhile wedrag it out of the obscurity to which we temporarily consigned it as apenalty for its popularity, and straightway it comes into greaterprominence than ever, precisely as does the cut of a sleeve or the styleof hair-dressing. This explanation may not be very complimentary toAmerican good sense or taste, but I think it goes to the root of thematter. It is sincerely to be hoped that the time will come when ourflower-growing will have no trace of the fad about it, and that whateverwe cultivate will grow into favor solely because of real merit, and thatits popularity will be permanent. I am encouraged to think that such maybe the case, for some of the favorite flowers of the day have held theirown against all newcomers for a considerable period, and seem to begrowing in favor every year. This is as it should be. 

It used to be thought that the Dahlia could not be grown successfully atthe north if it were not started into growth in the house, orgreenhouse, very early in the season. Nine times out of ten the resultwas a weak, spindling plant by the time it was safe to put it into theground--which was not until all danger from frost was over. Generallysuch plants were not strong enough to bloom until about the time frostcame in fall, for it took them the greater part of the season to recoverfrom the effect of early forcing, in which the vitality of the plantsuffered almost to the point of extinction, and to which was added theordeal of the change from in- to out-door conditions. "Our seasons aretoo short for it, " was the universal verdict. "At the south it may dowell, but there's no use in trying to do anything with it at the northunless one has a greenhouse, and understands the peculiarities of theplant better than the rank and file of flower-loving people can expectto. " So it came about that its cultivation was given up by smallgardeners, and it was seen only on the grounds of the wealthier people, who could afford the services of the professional gardener. 

We have learned, of late years, that our treatment of the plant wasalmost the opposite of what was required. 

Some eight or ten years ago, I ordered a collection of choice varietiesof the Dahlia. I ordered them early in the season, expecting to startthem into growth in pots as usual. For some reason they did not comeuntil the last day of May. It was then too late to start them in theusual way, and I planted them in the garden, expecting they would amountto nothing. 

The result was, to me, a most surprising one. 

The place in which I planted them was one whose soil was very rich andmellow. It was near a pump, from which a great deal of water was thrownout every day. 

In less than a week after planting, the tubers threw up strong shoots, and these grew very rapidly under the combined effects of rich soil, warmth, and plenty of moisture at the roots. Indeed, they went ahead sorapidly that I considered their growth a discouraging feature, as I feltsure it must be a weak one. 

The result was that when the State Horticultural Society held its summermeeting in the village in which I resided, on the twenty-eighth ofAugust, I placed on exhibition some of the finest specimens of Dahliablossoms the members of the Society had ever seen, and carried off eightfirst premiums. 

Since then I have never attempted to start my Dahlias in the house. Igive them an extremely rich soil, spaded up to the depth of at least afoot and a half, and made so mellow that the new roots find it an easymatter to work their way through it. Water is applied freely during theseason. I consider this an item of great importance, as I find that theplant fails to make satisfactory development when located in a dryplace. A pailful of water a day is not too much to apply to each plantin a dry season. 

The soil must be rich. In a poor soil development will be on a par withthat of plants which have been given a dry place. 

Because of the peculiar brittleness of the stalks of the Dahlia it isquite necessary to furnish them with good support. My plan is to set astout stake by each plant, at planting-time. This should be at leastfive feet tall. I put it in place at the time of planting the tuber, because then I know just where the root of the future plant is, and canset the stake without injuring it. But if stake-setting is left untillater in the season one runs a risk of breaking off some of the newtubers that have formed about the old one. I tie the main stalk of theplant to the stake with a strip of cloth instead of a string, as thelatter will cut into the soft wood. Sometimes, if the plant sends up agood many stalks, it will be necessary to furnish additional support. Unless some kind of support is given we are likely to get up somemorning after a heavy rain, or a sudden wind, and find our plants brokendown, and in attempting to save them we are pretty sure to complete thewreck, as a slight twist or turn in the wrong direction will snap thestalk off at its junction with the root. 

The Dahlia will be found one of our very best plants for use in theborder where something is needed for a filler. It is very effective as ahedge, and can be used to great advantage to hide a fence. Singlespecimens are fine for prominent locations on the grounds about thehouse. In fact, it is a plant that can be made useful anywhere. 

[Illustration: CACTUS DAHLIA]

In fall, when our early frosts come, it will be necessary to protect iton cool nights, as it is extremely tender. This can be easily done bysetting some stout sticks about the plant and covering it with a sheet. If tided over the frosty weather that usually comes for two or threenights about the middle of September, it will bloom profusely during theweeks of pleasant weather that almost always follow the early frosts, and then is when it will be enjoyed most. 

When the frost has killed its stalks, it should be dug and got ready forwinter. Lift the great mass of roots that will have grown from thelittle tuber planted at the beginning of the season, and do this withoutbreaking them apart, if possible. Spread them out in the sun. At nightcover with a blanket, and next day expose them to sunshine again. Dothis for several days in succession until the soil that is lifted withthem will crumble away easily. Exposure to sunshine has the effect ofrelieving them of a good deal of moisture which they contain in greatquantity when first dug, and which ought to be got rid of, in a largedegree, before they are stored in the cellar. 

The tubers should never be placed on the cellar-bottom, because of thedampness that is generally found there. I spread mine out on shelves ofwire netting, suspended four or five feet from the floor. If they showsigns of mould I know they are too damp, and elevate the shelves stillmore, in order to get the tubers into a dryer stratum of air. If theyseem to be shrivelling too much, I lower the shelves a little. Cellarsdiffer so much that one can only tell where the right place is byexperimenting. Watch your tubers carefully. A little neglect will oftenresult in failure, as mould, once given a chance to secure a foothold, is rapid in its action, and your tubers may be beyond help before youdiscover that there is anything the matter with them. As soon as youfind a mouldy root, throw it out. If left it will speedily communicateits disease to every plant with which it comes in contact. Some personstell me that they succeed in wintering their Dahlia tubers best bypacking them in boxes of perfectly dry sand. If this is done, be sureto elevate the box from the floor of the cellar. 

Quite naturally persons have an idea that the best results will besecured by planting out the whole bunch of tubers, in spring. This is amistake. One good tuber, with an "eye, " or growing point, will make amuch better plant than the whole bunch set out together. 

To sum up the treatment I advise in the cultivation of the Dahlia:

Have the ground very rich. 

Have it worked deeply. 

Plant single tubers about the first of June. 

Furnish a good support. 

See that the ground is well supplied with moisture. 

There has been a great change of opinion with regard to the Dahlia. Weno longer confine ourselves to one type of it. The single varieties, which were despised of old, are now prime favorites--preferred by manyto any other kind. The old very double "show" and "fancy" varieties arelargely grown, but they share public favor with the "decoratives, " thepompones, and the cactus, and, as I have said, the single forms. Whichof these forms is most popular it would be hard to say. All of them haveenthusiastic champions, and the best thing to do is to try them all. 

"Show" Dahlias are those with large and very double flowers of a singlecolor, and those in which the ground color is of a lighter shade thanthe edges or tips of the petals. The outer petals recurve, as the flowerdevelops, until they meet at the stem, thus giving us a ball-likeblossom. 

"Fancy" Dahlias are those having striped petals, and those in which theground color is darker than the edges or tips of the petals. This class, as a rule, is very variable, and a plant will often have flowers showingbut one color. Sometimes half the flower will be one color, halfanother. 

The Pompone or Liliputian class is a miniature edition of the show andfancy sorts, quite as rich in color and perfect in form as either, butof a dwarf habit of growth. This class is well adapted to bedding out insummer. 

The Cactus Dahlia has long pointed or twisted petals. Most varieties aresingle, but some are semi-double. This is the class that will be likelyto find favor with those who admire the ragged Japanese Chrysanthemums. 

Decorative Dahlias have broad, flat petals, somewhat loosely arranged, and much less formal than those of the show, fancy, or pompone sorts. Their flowers seldom have more than two rows of petals, and are flat, showing a yellow disc at the centre. As a general thing they areproduced on long stalk, a flower to a stalk. This makes them very usefulfor cutting. They are the most graceful members of the entire Dahliafamily, allowing me to be judge. 

The single type has but one row of petals. Plants of this class are verystrong growers, and can be used to advantage in the back rows of theborder. 

No flower in cultivation to-day has a wider range of color than theDahlia, and nearly all the colors represented in it are wonderfully richin tone. From the purest white to the richest crimson, the deepestscarlet, delicate pink and carmine, rich yellow, dark purple, orange andpalest primrose, --surely all tastes can find something to please them. 

THE GLADIOLUS

One of the most popular flowers of the day is the Gladiolus. All thingsconsidered, it is our best summer bloomer. Nothing in the floral worldexceeds it in variety and range of color. This color is in somevarieties dark and rich in scarlets, crimsons, and purples, in othersdainty and delicate in pink, pearly flesh, almost pure white, andsoftest rose, while the midway sorts are in brilliant carmines, cherry-reds, lilacs, and intermediate tones too numerous to mention. Nearly all varieties show most magnificent combinations of color thatbaffle description. Comparatively few varieties are one colorthroughout. 

Most plants in which such a bewildering variety of color is found have atendency to coarseness, but this objection cannot be urged against theGladiolus. It has all the delicacy of the Orchid. Its habit of growthfits it admirably for use in the border. Its ease of cultivation makesit a favorite with the amateur who has only a limited amount of time tospend among the flowers. It is a plant that any one can grow, and it isa plant that will grow almost anywhere. It is one of the few plants thatseem almost able to take care of themselves. Beyond putting the corms inthe ground, in spring, and an occasional weeding as the plant develops, very little attention is required. 

To secure the best effect from it, the Gladiolus should be planted inmasses. Single specimens are far less satisfactory. One must see fiftyor a hundred plants in a bed ten or fifteen feet long to fullyappreciate what it is capable of doing. 

The time to plant it is in May, after the soil has become warm. Nothingis gained by earlier planting. 

The bed should be spaded to the depth of a foot, at least. Then the soilshould be worked over until it is fine and light. A liberal quantity ofsome good fertilizer should be added to it. Commercial fertilizers seemto suit it well, but the use of barnyard manure gives excellent results, and I would prefer it, if obtainable. 

The corms should be put about four inches below the surface, care beingexercised at the time of planting to see that they are right side up. It is often difficult to decide this matter before sprouting begins, but a little careful examination of the corm will soon enable you totell where the sprouts will start from, and this will prevent you fromgetting it wrong-side up. As soon as the plants send up a stalk, someprovision should be made for future support. If you prefer to stake thebeds, set the stakes in rows about two feet apart. Wire or cord need notbe stretched on them until the stalks are half grown. The reason forsetting the stakes early in the season is--you know just where the cormis then, but later on you will not be able to tell where the new cormsare, and in setting the stakes at random you are quite likely to injurethem. When you apply the cord or wire to the stakes, run it lengthwiseof the bed, and then across it in order to furnish a sufficient supportwithout obliging the stalks to lean from the perpendicular to get thebenefit of it. 

For several seasons past, I have made use of a coarse-meshed wirenetting, placed over the bed, and fastened to stakes about eighteeninches high. The stalks find no difficulty in making their way throughthe large meshes of the netting, and with a support of this kind theydispose themselves in a natural manner that is far more satisfactorythan tying them to stakes, as we often see done. Some kind of a supportmust be given if we would guard against injury caused by strong winds. When the flower-stalk is once prostrated it is a difficult matter to getit back in place without breaking it. 

If netting is used it need not be placed over the bed before the middleof July. By that time most of the weeds which require attention duringthe early part of the season will have been disposed of. Putting on thenetting at an earlier period would greatly interfere with the propercultivation of the bed. The soil should be kept light and open until theflower-stalks begin to show their buds. 

The flowering-period covers several weeks, beginning in August, andlasting all through September. 

The Gladiolus is extremely effective for interior decorative work. Itlasts for days after being cut. Indeed, if cut when the first flowers atthe base of the spike open, it will continue to develop the buds aboveuntil all have become flowers, if the water in which the stalks areplaced is changed daily, and a bit of the end of the stalk is cut offeach time. For church use no flower excels it except the Lily, and thatwe can have for only a short time, and quite often not at all. 

In late October the plants should be lifted, and spread out in thesunshine to ripen. Do not cut the stalks away until you are ready tostore the corms. Then cut off each stalk about two inches from itsjunction with the corm. When the roots seem well dried out, put them inpaper bags containing perfectly dry sawdust or buckwheat shells, andhang them in a dry place where the frost will not get at them. I wouldnot advise storing them in the cellar, as they generally mould or mildewthere. 

Most varieties increase quite rapidly. You will find several new cormsin fall, taking the place of the old one planted in spring. Often therewill be scores of little fellows the size of a pea, clustered about thelarger corms. These should be saved, and planted out next spring. Sowthem close together in rows, as you would wheat. The following year theywill bloom. 

So extensively is the Gladiolus grown at the present time that enough tofill a good-sized bed can be bought for a small sum. And in no other waycan you invest a little money and be sure of such generous returns. Whatthe Geranium is to the window-garden that the Gladiolus is to theoutdoor garden, and one is of as easy culture as the other. 

[Illustration: A GARDEN GLIMPSE]

Some of the choicest varieties are sold at a high price. One reason forthis is--the finest varieties are slow to increase, and it takes a longtime to get much of a stock together. This is why they are so rare, andso expensive. But many of them are well worth all that is asked forthem. 

You may have a mixed collection of a thousand plants and fail to find aworthless variety among them. Indeed, some of the very finest flowers Ihave ever had have been grown from collections that cost so little thatone hardly expected to find anything but the commonest flowers amongthem. 

LILIES

The Rose, like the Lily, is a general favorite. It has more than oncedisputed the claim of its rival to the title of Queen of Flowers, andthough it has never succeeded in taking the place of the latter in theestimation of the average flower-lover, it occupies a position in thefloral world that no other flower dare aspire to. 

This plant does well only in soils that have the best of drainage. Water, if allowed to stand about its roots in spring, will soon be thedeath of it. 

Therefore, in planting it be sure to choose a location that is naturallywell drained, or provide artificial drainage that will make up for thelack of natural drainage. This is an item you cannot afford to overlookif you want to grow the finest varieties of Lilies in your garden. Someof our native Lilies grow on low lands, and do well there, but none ofthe choicer kinds would long survive under such conditions. Theprobabilities are that if we planted them there we would never seeanything more of them. 

The ideal soil for the Lily seems to be a fine loam. I have grown goodones, however, in a soil containing considerable clay and gravel. Thiswas on a sidehill where drainage was perfect. Had the location beenlower, or a level one, very likely the plants would not have done sowell. 

The bulbs should be put into the ground as early in September aspossible. 

On no account allow the bulbs to be exposed to the air. If you do, theywill rapidly part with the moisture stored up in their scales, and thisis their life-blood. 

It is a good plan to put a handful of clean, coarse sand about each bulbat planting-time. 

If barnyard manure is used, --and there is nothing better in the way offertilizer for any bulb, --be sure that it is old and well rotted. On noaccount should fresh manure be allowed to come in contact with a Lily. If barnyard manure is not to be had, use bonemeal. Mix it well with thesoil before putting the bulbs into it. 

Bulbs of ordinary size should be planted about eight inches below thesurface. If in groups, about a foot apart. 

The best place for Lilies, so far as show goes, is among shrubbery, orin the border. 

Below I give a list of the best varieties for general cultivation, witha brief description of each:

_Auratum_ (the Gold-Banded Lily). --Probably the most popular member ofthe family, though by no means the most beautiful. Flowers white, dottedwith crimson, with a gold band running through each petal. 

_Speciosum album. _--A beautiful pure-white variety. Deliciouslyfragrant. 

_Speciosum rubrum_ (the Crimson-Banded Lily). --Flowers white with a redband down each petal. 

_Brownsii. _--A splendid variety. Flowers very large, and trumpet-shaped. Chocolate-purple outside, pure white within, with dark brown stamensthat contrast finely with the whiteness of the inner part of the petals. 

_Tigrinum_ (Tiger Lily). --One of the hardiest of all Lilies. Flowersorange-red, spotted with brownish-black. This will succeed where none ofthe others will. Should be given a place in all gardens. 

_Superbum. _--The finest of all our native Lilies. Orange flowers, spotted with purple. Often grows to a height of eight feet, thereforeis well adapted to prominent positions in the border. 

[Illustration: AURATUM LILY]

While the Lily of the Valley is, strictly speaking, _not_ a Lily, itdeserves mention here. It is one of the most beautiful flowers we grow, of the purest white, and with the most delightful fragrance, and foliagethat admirably sets off the exquisite loveliness of its flowers. Nogarden that "lives up to its privileges" will be without it. It doesbest in a shady place. Almost any soil seems to suit it. It is veryhardy. It spreads rapidly, sending up a flower-stalk from every "pip. "When the ground becomes completely matted with it, it is well to go overthe bed and cut out portions here and there. The roots thus cut away canbe broken apart and used in the formation of new beds, of which therecan hardly be too many. The roots of the old plants will soon fill theplaces from which these were taken, and the old bed will be all thebetter for its thinning-out. Coming so early in spring, we appreciatethis most beautiful plant more than we do any flower of the laterseason. And no flower of any time can excel it in daintiness, purity, and sweetness. 

PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES

Amateur gardeners are always wanting plants for some special purpose, and, for their benefit, I propose to devote this chapter to"special-purpose" information. 

"What shall we grow to shade doors and windows? We want something thatwill grow rapidly. If a flowering vine, all the better, but shade is theall-important consideration. "

The best large-growing vine for this purpose, all things considered, isthe Wild Cucumber. No other annual vine exceeds it in rapidity ofgrowth. It will grow twenty or twenty-five feet in a season, if givensomething to support it to that height, therefore it is very usefulabout the second-story windows, which height few of our annual vinesattain. It has very bright-green, pretty foliage, somewhat resemblingthat of the native Grape, though not so large. About midsummer it comesinto bloom. Its flowers are white, --delicate, fringy little things, inspikes, with a very agreeable fragrance, especially in the morning whenwet with dew, --and there are so many of them that the vine looks as ifdrifted over with a fall of snow. The plant has tendrils by which itattaches itself to anything with which it comes in contact, consequentlystrings, latticework, or wire netting answer equally well for itssupport. Its tendency is to go straight up, if whatever support is givenencourages it to do so, but if you think advisable to divert it from itsupward course all you have to do is to stretch strings in whateverdirection you want it to grow, and it will follow them. Its flowers arefollowed by balloon-shaped fruit, covered with prickly spines--littleball-shaped cucumbers, hence the popular name of the plant. When theseeds ripen, the ball or pod bursts open, and the black seeds are shotout with considerable force, often to a distance of twenty feet or more. In this way the plant soon spreads itself all over the garden, and nextspring you will have seedling plants by the hundred. It soon becomes awild plant, and is often seen growing all along the roadside, and neverquite so much "at home" as when it finds a thicket of bushes to clamberover. It has one drawback, however, which will be especially noticeablewhen the plant is domesticated: Its early leaves ripen and fall offwhile those farther up the vine are in their prime, and remain so untilfrost comes. But this defect can easily be remedied by growing some tallplant at the base of the vines to hide their nakedness. 

Another most excellent vine is the good old Morning Glory, with itsblue, purple, violet, pink, carmine, and white flowers produced in suchprofusion that they literally cover its upper branches during the earlypart of the day. This is a very satisfactory vine to train about doorand window. Do not give it ordinary twine as a support, as the weight ofthe vines, when well developed, is almost sure to break it down. Stoutcord, such as is used in binding grain, is the best thing I know of, asit is rather rough, thus enabling the vine to take hold of it with goodeffect. This is a rapid grower, and a wonderfully free bloomer, and itwill give you flowers throughout the season. It is much showier than theWild Cucumber, but its foliage lacks the delicacy which characterizesthat plant. 

Another good vine for covering porches, verandas, and summer-houses, isthe Japan Hop. This plant--it is an annual, like the other two of whichmention has been made--has foliage of a rich, dark green, broadly andirregularly blotched and marbled with creamy white and pale yellow. Itgrows rapidly, and gives a dense shade. 

"I would like a sort of hedge, or screen, between the flower and thevegetable garden. What plants would you advise for this purpose?"

The Zinnia is an excellent plant where a low hedge is desired. Itaverages a height of three feet. It is compact and symmetrical in habit, branching quite close to the ground. It is a rapid grower, and of thevery easiest culture. It comes into bloom in July, and continues toproduce great quantities of flowers, shaped like miniature Dahlias, inred, scarlet, pink, yellow, orange, and white, until frost comes. Itmakes a most gorgeous show. 

Kochia, more commonly known as "Burning Bush" or "Mexican Fire-Plant, "is a charming thing all through the season. In summer it is a pleasinggreen. In fall it turns to a brilliant red, hence its popular names, asgiven above. Its habit is very compact, and one of great symmetry. Ifthe plants are set about a foot apart, and in two rows, --these rows afoot apart, --you will have a low hedge that will be as smooth as one ofArbor Vitę after the gardener has given it its annual shearing. When thebush takes on its autumnal coloring it is as showy as a plant can wellbe, and is always sure of attracting attention, and being greatlyadmired. 

Amaranthus is another very pleasing plant for hedge purposes. It growsto a height of about four feet. Some varieties have a dark, bronze-greenfoliage, others foliage of a dull, rich Indian-red, while some areyellow-green--quite rare among plants of this class. The flowers, whichare small, individually, are thickly set along pendant stems, and givethe effect of ropes of chenille. In color they are a dull red, not atall showy in the sense of brilliance, but really charming when seendropping in great profusion against the richly colored foliage. Ourgrandmothers grew the original varieties of this plant under the name of"Prince's Plume, " "Prince's Feather, " or "Love Lies Bleeding. " But sincethe florists have taken it in hand, and greatly improved it, it nolonger retains the good old names which always meant something. Tosecure the best results with this plant, when grown as a hedge orscreen, set it in rows about a foot apart, each way, and use some of thedwarf sorts for the front row. Or a flowering plant of contrastingcolor--like the Nasturtium, or the double yellow Marigold, or thevelvety African variety, with flowers of a dark maroon shading toblackish-brown--can be grown at its base, with fine effect. 

[Illustration: THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER]

Sweet Peas make a good screen if given proper support, and plantedthickly. 

"I would like a large group or bed of ornamental foliaged plants on thelawn, but have grown rather tired of Cannas and Caladiums. What wouldyou suggest? I don't want anything hard to grow. "

If very large plants are wanted, I would advise, as best of all, Ricinus, better known, perhaps, as Castor Bean, or Castor Plant. This isan annual of wonderfully vigorous growth. It often reaches a height often feet, in good soil, with a corresponding spread of branches. Itsleaves are often a yard across, of a dark coppery bronze, with apurplish metallic lustre that makes the plant very striking. The besteffect is secured by growing four or five plants in a group. None of thetropical plants that have come into prominence in gardening, during thepast ten or twelve years, are nearly as effective as this easily-grownannual, whose seeds sell at five cents a package. For a very prominentlocation on the lawn or anywhere about the home-grounds no better plantcould be selected. 

The Amaranthus advised for hedge use makes a very showy circular bed onthe lawn when grown in large masses, in the centre, surrounded withflowering plants of a strongly contrasting but harmonious color. TheCalliopsis, rich golden-yellow marked with brown, combines charminglywith the dull, deep, rich reds which characterize the foliage andflowers of the most desirable varieties of this too much neglectedannual. There are new varieties advertised of rather dwarf habit, withgolden-green foliage, that could be used about the red-leaved kinds withfine effect. 

"I would like a bed of very brilliant flowers for the front yard. Can'thave many, for I haven't time to take care of them, so want those whichwill give the most show for the least trouble. Would like something sobright that it will _compel_ people to stop and look at it. What shall Iget?"

An exceedingly brilliant combination can be made by the use of scarletSalvia, as the centre of a bed six or eight feet across, with Calliopsissurrounding it. The scarlet and yellow of these two flowers will makethe place fairly blaze with color, and they will continue to bloom untilfrost comes. They require next to no care. 

The annual Phlox makes a fine show if proper care is taken in thearrangement of the various colors with a view to contrast. The pale rosevariety combines beautifully with the pure whites and pale yellows. Abed of these three colors alone will be found much more satisfactorythan one in which a larger number of colors are used. Set each color ina row by itself. Such a bed will "compel" persons to stop and admire it, but they will do it for the sake of its beauty rather than its greatbrilliance. 

Petunias are excellent plants for large beds where a strong show ofcolor is desired. They bloom early, continue through the season, andrequire very little care. 

The Shirley Poppy makes a brave show about the last of July, but afterthat it soon dies. If it were an all-season bloomer it would be one ofour most popular plants for producing a brilliant effect. I would adviseusing it, and filling the bed in which it grew with other plants, afterits flowering period was over. Its rich colors and satiny texture makeit a plant that always attracts attention. 

Scarlet Geraniums are used a great deal where a strong color-show isdesired, but they are not as satisfactory as many other plants becauseof their ragged look, after a little, unless constantly given care. Thefirst flowers in truss will fade, and their discolored petals will spoilthe effect of the flowers that come after them if they are allowed toremain. It is not much of a task to go over the plants and pull outthese faded flowers every, day, but we are not likely to do this. Iprefer single Geraniums to double ones for garden use, because they droptheir old petals, and never take on the ragged appearance whichcharacterizes the ordinary bedding Geranium. 

"I would like a low bed--that is, a bed near the path where it will belooked down upon. Tall plants would be out of place there. Tell me of afew of the best kinds for such a location. "

The Portulacca is well adapted to such use, as it never grows to be morethan three or four inches in height, but spreads in a manner to make itlook like a green carpet, upon which it displays its flowers of red, rose, scarlet, yellow and white with very vivid effect. This plant mightwell be called a vegetable salamander, as it flourishes in dry, hotlocations where other plants would utterly fail. It fairly revels in thehot sunshine of midsummer. 

The good old Verbena is another very desirable plant for a low bed. Itis of spreading habit, blooms profusely and constantly, and comes in awide range of beautiful colors. 

The Ageratum is a lovely plant for a low bed, with its great masses ofsoft lavender flowers. Fine effects are secured by using dark yellowColeus or golden Pansies as an edging, these colors contrastingexquisitely with the dainty lavender-blue of the Ageratum. 

"What flowers shall we grow to cut from? Would like something that isnot coarse, and something that will bloom for a long time, and has longstems. "

At the head of the list I would place the Sweet Pea. This is a favorite, everywhere, for cutting. The most useful varieties are the delicate roseand white ones, the pure whites, the pale pinks, the dainty lavenders, and the soft primrose yellows. 

The Nasturtium is an old favorite for cutting, and a corner of everygarden ought to be given up to a few plants of it for the specialpurpose of furnishing cut flowers. 

The Aster is a magnificent flower, --it seems to be growing better andbetter each year, if such a thing is possible, --and nothing else amongthe annuals compares with it in lasting quality, when cut. If the waterin which it is placed is changed daily, it will last for two weeks, andseem as fresh at the end of that time as when first cut. The most usefulvariety for cutting is the "Branching Aster, " with stems a foot or morein length. This makes the flowers of this class particularly useful forvases. I would advise growing three colors, when it is wanted solely forcutting--white, pale rose, and delicate lavender. 

The newer varieties of Dahlia--especially the "decorative" section--aresuperb for cutting. Their flowers are not formal like those of the olddouble kinds, and being borne on long stalks, they can be arranged verygracefully. Like the Aster, they last well. They will be found among themost useful of our late flowers for large vases, and where striking andbrilliant effects of color are desired. 

The Gladiolus is also well adapted to cutting, and is very effectivewhen used in tall vases, the entire stalk being taken. 

Scabiosa, often known as "Mourning Bride, " is an excellent plant forvase-use, and deserves more attention than it has heretofore enjoyed. Its flowers are quite unlike most other annuals in color, and will beappreciated on that account. The dark purple varieties combinedelightfully with those of a lighter tone in yellow, and with purewhites. As the blossoms are produced on long stems, they disposethemselves very gracefully when used in rather deep vases. 

Every garden should have several plants of Mignonette in it, grown forthe especial purpose of cutting from. This is one of the most fragrantflowers we have among the annuals. 

For small vases--little vases for the breakfast table, or the desk, andfor gifts to friends--one ought to grow quantities of Heliotropes, TeaRoses, and Pansies. 

To cut from, early in spring, nothing is lovelier than the Lily of theValley. 

For larger vases, the Dicentra is always pleasing, coming close afterthe Lily of the Valley. Cut it with a good deal of foliage, and becareful to give each stalk ample room in which to adjust itself. A vasewith a flaring top is what this flower ought to have, as its stalks havejust the curve that fits the flare. A straight vase obliges it to standup so primly that half the charm of the flower is destroyed. 

For late fall cutting, there is no other flower quite equal to theCosmos. The pink and white varieties are lovely when cut by the branch, and used in large vases. They seem especially adapted to churchdecoration. 

"We want some flowers that will bloom late in the season. Are there anythat can be depended on after early frosts?"

Yes. First on the list I would name the Aster. This sturdy annual isseldom at its best before the first frosts, and can be considered in itsprime during the first half of October. And it will last until coldweather sets in. 

Ten Week Stock--the "Gillyflower" of grandmother's garden--is a latebloomer. The snows of November often find it full of flowers, and arepowerless to injure it. It is delightfully fragrant, and particularlyadapted to cutting, because of its long spikes of bloom. It comes inwhite, rosy-purple, red, and sulphur-yellow. 

The Marguerite Carnation deserves a place in every garden because of itsgreat beauty, and its late-flowering habit. While not all the plantsgrown from seed will give double flowers, a large share of them will beso, and in form, size, and color they will compare very favorably withthe greenhouse varieties of this favorite flower. Most of them will havethe true Carnation fragrance. For choice little bouquets, for home use, or to give your especial friends nothing can be more satisfactory. Youcan expect a dozen flowers from each plant where you would get but onefrom the greenhouse sorts. 

ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN FEATURES

Few persons who daily pass attractive homes in the suburban districts ofour large cities and the outlying country, realize that much of theircharm is due to effects which require a comparatively small outlay indollars and cents. Good taste, combined with a degree of skill that iswithin reach of most of us, represent the chief part of the investment. And yet--these little, inexpensive things are the very ones that producethe pleasing effects we are all striving after in our efforts to makehome attractive. Most of them convey an impression of being made foruse, not show. They are in a class with the broad-seated, wide-armed"old hickory" rockers with which we make our modern verandas comfortablenowadays, and the hammock swung in shady places, wherein one may lie andtake his ease, and forget everything but the fact that it is sometimesa pleasant thing to be lazy--frankly, unblushingly lazy. It is a healthyindication in our American life when so many persons go in for gettingall the comfort they can from outdoors in summer. Every home whosegrounds are large enough to accommodate them ought to have benches hereand there, made for comfort, rather than looks, garden-seats, summer-houses--all suggestive of rest and relaxation. In this chapter Ipropose to briefly describe a few such home-made features, hoping thatthe man or boy who has the "knack" of using tools to advantage, actuatedby a desire to make home-environments pleasant, may be led to copy someof them. 

Let me say, right here, that the work demanded in the construction ofrustic features about the home is just the kind of work I wouldencourage boys to undertake. It will be found so enjoyable that it willseem more like play than labor. There is the pleasure of planningit--the sense of responsibility and importance which comes to the ladwho sets out to do something "all by himself, " and the delightfulconsciousness that what is done may result in making home morehome-like, and add to the comfort and pleasure of those whose love andcompanionship go to make home the best place on earth. 

[Illustration: SUMMER HOUSE]

In constructing summer-houses, bridges, and other rustic work, thereshould be a careful plan made before the work is begun. Never work "byguess. " Go at the undertaking precisely as the mechanic sets about theconstruction of a house. Draw a diagram of what the structure is to be. A rough diagram will answer quite as well as any, provided it covers allparticulars. 

Figure out just how much material the plan calls for. Get this on theground before anything else is done. The material required will be polesof different sizes and lengths, large and substantial nails, a fewplanks for floors and benches--possibly tables--and shingles forcovering such structures as need roofing in, unless bark is used forthis purpose. Of course bark gives more of a "rustic" look to a roof, but it is not an easy matter to obtain a good quality of it, andshingles, stained a mossy-green or dark brown, will harmonize charminglywith the rest of the building, and furnish a much more substantial roofthan it is possible to secure with even the best kind of bark. 

If possible, use cedar poles in preference to any other, for severalreasons: First of all, they are more ornamental, because of their bark, which is more permanent than that of any other wood. They are light, and easy to handle, and take a nail as readily as pine. And then--theiraromatic odor makes it a constant delight to work among them to thosewho like sweet, fresh, wild-woody smells. But all kinds of poles can besubstituted for cedar if that is not obtainable. The kind of wood usedin the construction of rustic work is not a matter of prime importance, though it may be, and is, largely a matter of taste. But when we cannotdo as we would like to we must do the best we can. 

Provide yourself with a good saw, a hammer, a square, and a mitre-box. These will be all the tools you will be likely to need. Use spikes tofasten the larger timbers together, and smaller nails for the braces andornamental work of the design. Speaking of ornamental work reminds me tosay that the more crooked, gnarled, and twisted limbs and branches youcan secure, the better will be the effect, as a general thing, forformality must be avoided as far as possible. We are not workingaccording to a plan of Nature's but we are using Nature's material, andwe must use it as it comes from Nature's hand in order to make it mosteffective. 

Take pains in making joints. If everything is cut to the proper lengthand angle, it will fit together neatly, and only a neat job will besatisfactory. 

Let me advise the reader who concludes to try his hand at theconstruction of rustic work to confine his selection of design tosomething not very elaborate. Leave that for wealthy people who canafford to have whatever their taste inclines them to, without regard tocost, and who give the work over to the skilled workman. I amconsidering matters from the standpoint of the home-maker, who believeswe get more real pleasure out of what we make with our own hands thanfrom that which we hire some one to make for us. 

In one of the illustrations accompanying this chapter is shown acombination summer-house and arbor that is very easily made, and thatwill cost but little. The picture gives so clear an idea of frameworkand general detail that a description does not seem necessary. As aconsiderable weight will have to be supported by the roof, when vineshave been trained over it, it will be necessary to use stout poles foruprights, and to run substantial braces from them to the cross-polesoverhead. The built-in seats on each side add greatly to the comfort ofthe structure, and invite us to "little halts by the wayside, " in whichto "talk things over, " or to quiet hours with a book that would losehalf its charm if read indoors, as a companion. The original of thispicture is built over a path that is sometimes used as a driveway, andis known as "the outdoor parlor" by the family on whose grounds itstands. You will find some member of the family there on every pleasantday, throughout the entire season, for it is fitted out with hammocksand swinging seats, and a table large enough to serve as tea-table, onoccasion, with a cover that lifts and discloses a snug box inside inwhich books and magazines can be left without fear of injury in case ofshower or damp weather. Tea served in such surroundings takes on aflavor that it never has indoors. The general design of thissummer-house, as will readily be seen by the illustration, is simplicityitself, and can very easily be copied by the amateur workman. 

It often happens that there are ravines or small depressions on thehome-grounds over which a rustic bridge could be thrown with pleasingeffect, from the ornamental standpoint, and prove a great conveniencefrom the standpoint of practicality. If there is a brook there, all thebetter, but few of us, however, are fortunate enough to be owners ofgrounds possessing so charming a feature, and our bridges must bemore ornamental in themselves than would be necessary if there was waterto add its attraction to the spot. 

[Illustration: A PERGOLA SUGGESTION]

One of the most delightful summer-houses I have ever seen was largelythe result of an accident. An old tree standing near a path was brokendown in a storm, some years ago, and a portion of its trunk was made useof as a support for one side of the roof. On the opposite side, rusticarches were used. The roof was shingled, and stained a dark green, thusbringing it into color-harmony with its surroundings. Over the roof aWistaria was trained, and this has grown to such size that but few ofthe shingles are to be seen through its branches. About this spot thehome-life of the family centres from April to late October. "We wouldmiss it more than any part of the dwelling, " its owner and builder saidto me, when I asked permission to photograph it. I could readilyunderstand the regard of the family for so beautiful a place, which, Ihave no doubt, cost less than one of the great flower-beds that we seeon the grounds of wealthy people, and see without admiring, so formaland artificial are they, and so suggestive of professional workduplicated in other gardens until the very monotony of them becomes anoffence to the eye of the man or woman who believes in individuality andoriginality. 

Rustic fences between lots are great improvements on the ordinaryboundary fence, especially if vines are trained over them. They need notbe elaborate in design to be attractive. If made of poles from which thebark has been taken, they should be stained a dark green or brown tobring them into harmony with their surroundings. 

Screen-frames of rustic work, as a support for vines, to hide unsightlyoutbuildings, are far preferable to the usual one of wood with wirenetting stretched over it. They will cost no more than one of lattice, and will be vastly more pleasing, in every respect. 

Gateways can be made exceedingly pleasing by setting posts at each sideof the gate, and fashioning an arch to connect them, at the top. Train avine, like Ampelopsis, over the upper part of the framework, and youmake even the simplest gateway attractive. 

A garden-seat, with a canopy of vines to shade it, may not be any morecomfortable, _as a seat_, than any wooden bench, but the touch of beautyand grace imparted by the vine that roofs it makes it far moreenjoyable than an expensive seat without the vine would be to the personwho has a taste for pleasing and attractive things, simply because itpleases the eye by its outlines, thus appealing to the sense of thebeautiful. Beauty is cheap, when looked at from the right standpoint, which is never one of dollars and cents. It is just these little thingsabout a place that do so much to make it home-like, as you will readilysee if, when you find a place that pleases you, you take the trouble toanalyze the secret of its attractiveness. 

The pergola has not been much in evidence among us until of late. Arapidly increasing taste for the attractive features of old-world, outdoor life in sunny countries where much of the time is spent outsidethe dwelling, and the introduction of the "Italian garden" idea, havegiven it a popularity in America that makes it a rival of the arbor orsummer-house, and bids fair to make it a thing of permanence among us. 

The question is frequently asked by those who have read about pergolas, but have never seen one, as to wherein they differ from the ordinaryarbor. The difference is more in location, material, and manner ofconstruction than anything else. They are generally built of timber thatcan be given a coating of paint, with more or less ornamental pillarsor supports and rafters, and are constructed along definitearchitectural lines. They are, in fact, ornamental structures over whichvines are to be trained loosely with a view to tempering the sunshinerather than excluding it. The framework of the arbor, as a generalthing, is considered secondary to the effect produced by it when thevines we plant about it are developed. But, unlike the Americanizedpergola, the arbor is almost always located in a retired orinconspicuous part of the home-grounds, and is seldom found connectedwith the dwelling. To get the benefit of the arbor, or the summer-housewe evolve from it, we must go to it, while the pergola, as adapted bymost of us, brings the attractive features of out-door life to thehouse, thus combining out- and in-door life more intimately thanheretofore. One of the illustrations accompanying this chapter shows avery simple pergola framework--one that can be built cheaply, and by anyman or boy who is at all "handy with tools, " and can be used as a planto work from by anyone who desires to attach a modification of thepergola proper to the dwelling, for the purpose of furnishing shade toportions of it not provided with verandas. It will require theexercise of but little imagination to enable one to see what a charmingfeature of the home such a structure will be when vines have beentrained over it. There are many homes that would be wonderfully improvedby the addition of something of this kind, with very little trouble andexpense. It is to be hoped that many a housewife can prevail on the"men-folks" to interest themselves on pergola-building on a small scale, as indicated in the illustration, for practical as well as ornamentalreasons. Anything that will take the occupants of the dwelling out ofdoors is to be encouraged. Especially would the women of the householdenjoy a vine-shaded addition of this kind, during the intervals ofleisure that come during the day, and the head of the family would findit an ideal place in which to smoke his evening pipe. In severalrespects it can be made much more satisfactory than a veranda. It can bemade larger--roomier, and there will be more of an out-door atmosphereabout it because of its airiness, and the play of light and shadethrough the vines that clamber overhead. Pergolas of elaborate designneed not be described here, as they properly belong to homes not madeattractive by the individual efforts of the home owner. They are betteradapted to the grounds of wealthy people, who are not obliged toconsider expense, and who are not actively interested in the developmentof the home by themselves. 

[Illustration: A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK]

What vines would I advise for use about arbors, summer-houses, andpergolas?

The Wild Grape, though not much used, is one of our best native vines. It has the merit of rapid growth, entire hardiness, luxuriant foliageand delightful habit, and when in bloom it has a fragrance that is asexquisite as it is indescribable--one of those vague, elusive, and yetpowerful odors so characteristic of spring flowers. You will smellit--the air will be full of it--and yet it will puzzle you to locate it. The wind will blow from you and it will be gone. Then a breeze will blowyour way, and the air will suddenly be overpoweringly sweet with thescent shaken free from blossoms so small as to be hardly noticeableunless one makes a careful search for them. Then, too, the fruit is notonly attractive to the eye in fall, but pleasant to the taste of thosewho delight in the flavor of wild things, among whom we must class therobins, who will linger about the vine until the last berry is gone. 

[Illustration: GARDENER'S TOOL-HOUSE]

Another most excellent vine for covering these structures is ournative Ampelopsis, better known as American Ivy, or Virginia Creeper. This vine is of exceedingly rapid growth, and will accomplish more inone season than most other vines do in two or three years. Its foliageis beautiful at all times, but especially so in late autumn when ittakes on a brilliance that makes it a rival of the flower. In fact, every leaf of it seems all at once to become a flower, glowing withscarlet and maroon of varying shades, with here and there a touch ofbronze to afford contrast and heighten the intensity of the othercolors. This vine is perhaps the best of all vines for use on rusticstructures, because it takes hold of rough poles and posts with stoutlittle tendrils or sucker-like discs which ask for no assistance from usin the way of support. 

Another most charming vine is Clematis _paniculata_. This is a varietyof the Clematis family of comparatively recent introduction, quiteunlike the large-flowering class. It has white flowers, smallindividually, but produced in such enormous quantities that the upperportions of the vine seem to be covered with foam, or a light fall ofsnow. They will entirely hide the foliage with their dainty, airy grace, and you will declare, when you first see the plant in full bloom, thatit is the most beautiful thing you ever saw in the way of a vine. Andnot the least of its merits is its habit of flowering at a time whenmost vines have passed into the sere-and-yellow-leaf period. Septemberand October see it in its prime. Its foliage, of dark, rich, glossygreen, furnishes a most pleasing background against which its countlesspanicles of white bloom stand out with most striking and delightfuleffect. I have no knowledge of a more floriferous vine, and I know of nomore beautiful one. As a covering for the pergola attached to the houseit is unrivalled. 

In the southern belt of our northern states, where the Wistaria is hardyenough to withstand the winter, no more satisfactory flowering vine canbe chosen for a pergola covering. Its habit of growth and floweringseems perfectly in harmony with the primary idea of the pergola. It willfurnish all the shade that is needed without shutting out the sunshineentirely, and its pendant clusters of lavender-blue flowers are nevermore pleasing than when seen hanging between the cross-bars of thepergola. 

If the person who builds a summer-house or a pergola is impatient forresults it will be well to make use of annual vines for covering it thefirst season, though something of a more permanent nature should alwaysbe planned for. One of our best annuals, so far as rapidity of growth isconcerned, is the Wild Cucumber, of which mention was made in thepreceding chapter. Because of its rapid development, the usefulness ofthe plant for immediate effects will be readily understood. But it isvaluable only as a substitute for something more substantial and shouldnot be depended on after the first season. It lacks the dignity andstrength of a permanent vine. 

The Morning Glory will be found very effective for a first-seasoncovering. This vine is prodigal in its production of flowers. Everysunny day, throughout the season, it will be covered with blossoms, somany in number that they make a veritable "glory" of the forenoon hours. 

Another excellent annual is the Japan Hop. This will perhaps affordbetter satisfaction than the Wild Cucumber or the Morning Glory, becauseits foliage bears some resemblance to that of the hardy vines of which Ihave spoken. In other words, it has more substance and dignity, andtherefore seems more in harmony with the structure over which it istrained. Its leaves have a variegation of creamy white on a dark greenground. This makes it as ornamental as if it were a flowering plant. 

Every home ought to have its "playhouse" for children. If fitted withscreens to keep out mosquitoes, the younger members of the family, especially the girls, will literally "live in it" for six months of theyear. I would suggest fitting it with canvas curtains to shut out windand rain. I would also advise making it of good size, for the childrenwill take delight in entertaining visitors in it, and a tiny structureis not convenient for the entertainment of "company. " Such a buildingcan be made as ornamental as any arbor or pergola at slight cost, whenvines are used to hide the shortcomings of its material andconstruction. Be sure it will be appreciated by the little folks, andquite likely some of the "children of a larger growth" will dispute itsoccupancy with them, at times, if there is no other building of its kindabout the place. 

CARPET-BEDDING

Carpet-Bedding is not the most artistic phase of gardening, by anymeans, but it has a great attraction for many persons who admire massesof harmonious and contrasting colors more than the individual beauty ofa flower. Therefore a chapter on this subject will no doubt be gladlywelcomed by those who have seen the striking effects secured by the useof plants having ornamental or richly colored foliage, in our largepublic parks, and on the grounds of the wealthy. 

Let me say, just here, that the person who attempts what, for want of abetter name, might be called pictorial gardening, is wise if he selectsa rather simple pattern, especially at the outset of his career in thisphase of garden-work. Intricate and elaborate designs call for moreskill in their successful working out than the amateur is likely to bemaster of, and they demand a larger amount of time and labor than theaverage amateur florist will be likely to expend upon them. And thefact should never be lost sight of that failure to give all the careneeded brings about most discouraging results. This being the case, select a design in which the effect aimed at can be secured by broadmasses of color, depending almost wholly on color-contrast for pleasingresults. Bear in mind that this "school" of pictorial art belongs to the"impressionistic" rather than the "pre-Raphaelite, " about which we hearso much nowadays, and leave the fine work to the professional gardener, or wait until you feel quite sure of your ability to attempt it with areasonably good show of success. 

Some persons are under the impression that flowering plants can be usedto good effect in carpet-bedding. This is not the case, however. Inorder to bring out a pattern or design fully and clearly, it isabsolutely necessary that we make use of plants which are capable ofgiving a solid color-effect. This we obtain from foliage, but very fewflowering plants are prolific enough of bloom to give the desiredresult. The effect will be thin and spotty, so never depend on them. Quite often they can be used in combination with plants havingornamental foliage in such a manner as to secure pleasing results, butthey always play a secondary part in this phase of gardening. 

The best plants to use in carpet-bedding are the following:

Coleus, in various shades of red, maroon, and scarlet, light and darkyellow, green and white, and varieties in which colors and shades ofcolor are picturesquely blended. 

Achyranthes, low-growing plants in mixtures of red, pink, yellow andgreen. 

Alternatheras, similar to Achyranthes in habit, but with red as apredominating color. Both are excellent for working out the finerdetails of a design. 

Pyrethrum--"Golden Feather"--with feathery foliage of a tawny yellow. 

Centaurea _gymnocarpa_, --"Dusty Miller, "--with finely-cut foliage of acool gray. 

Geranium Madame Salleroi--with pale green and white foliage. This is amost excellent plant for use in carpet-bedding because of its close, compact habit of growth, and its very symmetrical shape which isretained throughout the entire season without shearing or pruning. 

It must be borne in mind by the amateur florist that success incarpet-bedding depends nearly as much on the care given as on thematerial used. In order to bring out a design sharply, it is necessaryto go over the bed at least twice a week and cut away all branches thatshow a tendency to straggle across the boundary line of the variouscolors. Run your pruning shears along this line and ruthlessly cut awayeverything that is not where it belongs. If this is not done, your"pattern" will soon become blurred and indistinct. If any interminglingof colors "from across the line" is allowed, all sharpness of outlinewill be destroyed. 

The plants must be clipped frequently to keep them dwarf and compact. Make it a point to keep the larger-growing kinds, such as Coleus, Pyrethrum and Centaurea, under six inches in height rather than over it. Alternatheras and Achyranthes will need very little shearing, as to top, because of their habit of low growth. 

In setting these plants in the bed, be governed by the habit of eachplant. Achyranthes and Alternatheras, being the smallest, should be putabout four inches apart. Give the Coleus about six inches of lee-way, also the Centaurea. Allow eight inches for Madame Salleroi Geranium andPyrethrum. These will soon meet in the row and form a solid line or massof foliage. 

So many persons have asked for designs for carpet-bedding, that I willaccompany this chapter with several original with myself which haveproved very satisfactory. Some of them may seem rather complicated, butwhen one gets down to the business of laying them out, the seemingcomplications will vanish. 

In laying out all but the star-shaped and circular beds, it is well todepend upon a square as the basis to work from. Decide on the size ofbed you propose to have, and then stake out a square as shown by thedotted lines in design No. 1, and work inside this square in filling inthe details. If this is done, the work will not be a difficult one. 

[Illustration: No. 1. ]

Design No. 1 will be found easy to make and admits of many pleasingcombinations and modifications. Each gardener who sees fit to adopt anyof these designs should study out a color-scheme of his own. Knowing thecolors of the material he has to work with it will not be difficult toarrange these colors to suit individual taste. I think this will be moresatisfactory than to give any arbitrary arrangement of colors, for halfthe pleasure of gardening consists in originating things of this kind, rather than copying what some one else has originated, or of followinginstructions given by others. This does not apply so much to designs forbeds as it does to the colors we make use of in them. 

[Illustration: No. 2. ]

In the designs accompanying this chapter it will be seen that simpleplans are made capable of producing more elaborate effects by making useof the dotted lines. Indeed, one can make these designs quite intricateby dividing the different spaces as outlined in No. 2. A plain centrewith a plain point, as shown in _a_, shows the bed in its very simplestform. In _g_, _c_, and _d_, we see these points with three differentarrangements suggested, and the dotted line in the central portionindicates a change that can be made there that will add considerably tothe effectiveness of the design. A little study of other designs will, Ithink, make them so plain that they can be worked out with but littletrouble. 

[Illustration: No. 3. ]

I would suggest that before deciding on any color-combinations, a roughdiagram be made of whatever bed you select and that this be colored tocorrespond with the material you have to work with. Seeing these colorsside by side on paper will give you a better idea of the general effectthat will result from any of your proposed combinations than you can getin any other way, and to test them in this manner may prevent you frommaking some serious mistakes. 

[Illustration: No. 4. ]

It will be necessary to go over the beds every day or two and remove alldead or dying leaves. Neatness is an item of the greatest importance inthis phase of gardening, or any other, for that matter. 

[Illustration: No. 5. ]

Large plants can be used in the centre of any of these designs, if onecares to do so, with very good effect. For this purpose we have fewplants that will give greater satisfaction than the Dahlia. ScarletSalvia would be very effective if yellow Coleus were used about it, butit would not please if surrounded with red Coleus, as the red of theplant and the red of the flower would not harmonize. A Canna of rich, dark green would make a fine centre plant for a bed in which red Coleusserved as a background. One of the dark copper-colored varieties wouldshow to fine effect if surrounded with either yellow Pyrethrum or grayCentaurea. 

[Illustration: No. 6. ]

Ageratum, with its delicate lavender-blue flowers, can be made extremelyattractive in combination with yellow Coleus. A pink Geranium surroundedwith gray Centaurea would be delightful in the harmony that would resultfrom a combination of these colors. 

[Illustration: No. 7. ]

[Illustration: No. 8. ]

Nos. 7 and 8 illustrate the simplest possible form of bed. No. 7 isdesigned for plants to be set in rows. In a bed of this kind floweringplants can be used more effectively than in any of the others. Pink, white, and pale yellow Phlox would be very pretty in such a combination. No. 8 would be quite effective if each of the five sections were of adifferent color of Coleus. Or the whole star might be of a solid color, with a border of contrasting color. Red Coleus with Madame SalleroiGeranium as a border would look well. So would yellow Coleus edged withCentaurea. 

FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS AND WALKS

We do not lay as much stress on edging beds and walks with floweringplants as formerly, but the practice is a most pleasing one, and oughtnot to be neglected. It is one of the phases of gardening that has beenallowed to fall into disuse, to a considerable extent, but there arealready signs that show it is coming back to its old popularity, alongwith the old-fashioned flowers that are now more in favor than everbefore. This is as it should be. 

A bed without a pretty border or edging always seems incomplete to me. It is as if the owner of it ran short of material before it wasfinished. The bit of lace or ribbon that is to add the last touch ofgrace and beauty to the gown is lacking. 

Especially is a border of flowering plants satisfactory if kinds areselected which bloom throughout the greater part of the season. Theplants we make use of in the centre of the bed are not always attractivebefore they come into bloom, neither are they that after they havepassed their prime, but a pretty edging of flowers draws attention fromtheir shortcomings, and always pleases. 

One of our best flowering plants for edging purposes is Candytuft. Itcomes into bloom early in the season, and blooms in great profusionuntil the coming of frost. Keep it from developing seed and it willliterally cover itself with bloom. I would advise going over it twice aweek and clipping off every cluster of faded blossoms. This answers twopurposes--that of preventing the formation of seed, and of removing whatwould be a disfigurement to the plant if it were allowed to remain. 

There are two varieties of Candytuft in cultivation--one white, theother a dull red. The white variety is the one most persons will select, as it harmonizes with all other plants. But the red sort is verypleasing when used with harmonious colors. I last year saw a bed ofNasturtium bordered with it, and the effect was delightful. Its dullcolor blended well with the richer, stronger tones of the Nasturtiumflowers, and gave them an emphasis that was suggestive of the effect ofdull, rich colors used in old rugs in heightening and bringing out, bycontrast, the brighter colors. 

In using Candytuft for edging, set the plants about a foot apart. Iwould advise two rows of them, placing the plants in such a manner thatthey alternate in the rows. Do not attempt to train them. Let them dothat for themselves. One of their most attractive features is their lackof formality when allowed to grow to suit themselves. Very pleasingresults are secured by using the white and red varieties together, thecolors alternating. If the centre of the bed is filled with "GoldenFeather" Pyrethrum and these two Candytufts are used as an edging, theeffect will be very fine as the dull red admirably supplements thegreenish-yellow color of the Pyrethrum, while the white relieves what, without it, would be too sombre a color-scheme. 

Sweet Alyssum is excellent for edging purposes. Its general effect isquite similar to that of the white Candytuft, but it has greaterdelicacy of both bloom and foliage, and the additional merit of adelightful fragrance. 

Ageratum is lovely for edging beds of pink Geraniums, its soft lavendertones being in perfect harmony with their color. It is equallysatisfactory when used with pale rose Phlox Drummondi, or the softyellow shades of that flower. Combine the three colors in a bed and youwill have something unusually dainty and delightful. One of theprettiest beds I saw last summer was filled with Sweet Alyssum, andedged with Ageratum. If there was any unfavorable criticism to be made, it was that a touch of some brighter, stronger color was needed torelieve its white and lavender. A free-flowering rose-colored Geraniumin its centre, or a pink Verbena, would have added much to the generaleffect, I fancy. As it was, it was suggestive of old blue-and-whiteDelft, and the collector of that ware would have gone into raptures overit. 

For a permanent edging, for beds, paths, and the border, Bellis_perennis_, whose popular name is English Daisy, is one of the best ofall plants. It is entirely hardy. It blooms early in the season. It iswonderfully generous in its production of flowers. These are small, andvery double, some pink, some almost white, produced on short stems whichkeep them close to the ground and prevent them from straggling. Itsthick, bright green foliage furnishes a charming background againstwhich the blossoms display themselves effectively. It is a plant thatdoes well everywhere, and is always on good terms with everything elsein the garden, as will be seen by the illustration that shows it in fullbloom, along with Pansies and Hyacinths. Because of its compact, non-straggling habit it is especially useful for bordering paths and theborder, permitting the use of the lawn-mower or the rake with perfectfreedom. Plants should be set about eight inches apart. If you have butfew plants of it and desire more, pull the old plants apart in springand make a new one out of each bit that comes away with a piece of rootattached. By fall the young plants will have grown together and formed asolid mass of foliage, with a great many "crowns" from which flowerswill be produced the following season. Florists can generally furnishseedling plants in spring, from which immediate effects can be securedby close planting. 

[Illustration: A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX]

One of the best--if not _the_ best--plants for all-around use in edgingis Madame Salleroi Geranium. It is quite unlike any other Geranium ofwhich I have any knowledge, in general habit. It forms a bushy, compactplant, and bears a solid mass of foliage. No attention whatever isrequired in the way of pruning. The plant trains itself. The ordinaryflowering Geranium must be pinched back, and pruned constantly toprevent it from becoming "leggy, " but there is no trouble of thiskind with Madame Salleroi. Its branches, of which there will often befifty or more from a plant, are all sent up from the crown of the plant, and seldom grow to be more than five or six inches in length. Eachbranch may have a score of leaves, borne on stems about four incheslong. These leaves are smaller than those of any other Geranium. Theirground color is a pale green, and every leaf is bordered with creamywhite. This combination of color makes the plant as attractive as aflowering one. It is a favorite plant for house-culture in winter, andthose who have a specimen that has been carried over can pull it apartin May and plant each bit of cutting in the ground where it is to growduring summer, feeling sure that not one slip out of twenty will fail togrow if its base is inserted about an inch deep in soil which should bepinched firmly about it to hold it in place while roots are forming. Setthe cuttings about ten inches apart. By midsummer the young plants willtouch each other, and from that time on to the coming of frost yourborder will be a thing of beauty, and one of the delightful things aboutit will be--it will require no attention whatever from you. Never abranch will have to be shortened to keep it within bounds. No supportwill be needed. The plants will take care of themselves. I have neverhad a plant that is easier to grow. It harmonizes with everything. Seenagainst the green of the lawn it is charming. All things considered, itis an ideal plant for edging. In combination with scarlet and yellowColeus it is exceedingly effective, because of its strongcolor-contrast. 

Most amateur gardeners are familiar with the various merits of Coleus, Alternatheras, Achyranthes, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum, and Centaurea_maritima_, better known as "Dusty Miller" because of its gray foliage. These are all good, when properly cared for, when used for edging bedsand borders. Especially so when used with Cannas, Caladiums, and otherplants of striking foliage, where their rich colors take the place offlowers. 

Phlox _decussata_, commonly known as "Moss Pink" because of its finefoliage and bright pink flowers, is a most excellent plant for the hardyborder, because it stands our winters quite as well as the hardiestperennials. Early in spring it will cover itself with charming blossomsthat are as cheerful to look at as the song of the robin or the bluebird is to hear. It is a lovable little thing, and has but one rivalamong early-flowering plants for edging, and that rival is the EnglishDaisy. 

PLANNING THE GARDEN

The flower garden not being one of the necessities of life, in the usualsense of the term, people are likely to consider the making of it of solittle importance that it is hardly worth while to give the matter muchconsideration. Consequently they simply dig up a bed here and there, sowwhatever seed they happen to have, and call the thing done. 

A haphazard garden of that sort is never satisfactory. In order to makeeven the smallest garden what it ought to be it should be carefullyplanned, and every detail of it well thought out before the opening ofthe season. 

To insure thoroughness in this part of the work I would advise thegarden-maker to make a diagram of it as he thinks he would like to haveit. Sketch it out, no matter how roughly. When you have a map of it onpaper you will be able to get a much clearer idea of it than you canobtain from any merely mental plan. 

After locating your beds, decide what kind of flower you will have ineach one. But before you locate your plants study your cataloguecarefully, and make yourself familiar with the heights and habits ofthem. Quite likely this will lead to a revision of your mental diagram, for you may find that you have proposed to put low-growing kinds in therear of tall-growing sorts, and tall-growing kinds where they wouldseriously interfere with the general effect. 

Bear in mind that there is always a proper place for each plant you makeuse of--if you can find it. The making of a working diagram and thestudy of the leading characteristics of the plants you propose to usewill help you to avoid mistakes that might seriously interfere with theeffectiveness of your garden. 

Do not attempt more than you are sure of your ability to carry throughwell. Many persons allow the enthusiasm of the spring season to get thebetter of their judgment, and lead them into undertaking to do so muchthat after a little the magnitude of the work discourages them, and, asa natural result, the garden suffers seriously, and often proves a sadfailure. Bear in mind that a few really good plants will give ahundredfold more pleasure than a great many mediocre ones. Thereforeconcentrate your work, and aim at quality rather than quantity. Neverset out to have so large a garden that the amount of labor you have toexpend on it will be likely to prove a burden rather than a pleasurablerecreation. 

[Illustration: IN SUMMER]

[Illustration: IN WINTER]

Do not attempt anything elaborate in a small garden. Leave fancy bedsand striking designs to those who have a sufficient amount of room attheir disposal to make them effective. 

I would advise keeping each kind of plant by itself, as far as possible. Beds in which all colors are mixed promiscuously are seldom pleasingbecause there are sure to be colors there that are out of harmony withothers, and without color-harmony a garden of most expensive plants mustprove a failure to the person of good taste. 

I would not, therefore, advise the purchase of "mixed" seed, in whichmost persons invest, because it is cheaper than that in which each coloris by itself. This may cost more, but it is well worth the additionalexpense. Take Phlox Drummondi as an illustration of the idea governingthis advice: If mixed seed is used, you will have red, pink, mauve, scarlet, crimson, violet, and lilac in the same bed, --a jumble of colorswhich can never be made to harmonize and the effect of which will bevery unpleasant. On the other hand, by planning your bed in advance ofmaking it, with color-harmony in mind, you can so select and arrangeyour colors that they will not only harmonize, but afford a contrastthat will heighten the general effect greatly. For instance, you can userose-color, white and pale yellow varieties together, or scarlet andwhite, or carmine and pale yellow, and these combinations will be inexcellent harmony, and give entire satisfaction. The mauves, lilacs, andviolets, to be satisfactory, should only be used in combination withwhite varieties. I am speaking of the Phlox, but the rule which appliesto this plant applies with equal force to all plants in which similarcolors are to be found. 

If there are unsightly places anywhere about the grounds aim to hidethem under a growth of pretty vines. An old fence can be made into athing of beauty when covered with Morning Glories or Nasturtiums. By theuse of a trellis covered with Sweet Peas, or a hedge of Zinnia, or ofCosmos, we can shut off the view of objectionable features which mayexist in connection with the garden. Outhouses can be completely hiddenin midsummer by planting groups of Ricinus about them, and filling inwith Hollyhocks, and Delphinium, and Golden Glow, and othertall-growing plants. In planning your garden, study how to bring aboutthese desirable results. 

Keep in mind the fact that if you go about garden-making in a haphazardway, and happen to get plants where they do not belong, as you are quitelikely to do unless you know them well, you have made a mistake whichcannot be rectified until another season. This being the case, guardagainst such mistakes by making sure that you know just what plant touse to produce the effect you have in mind. 

Plan to have a selection of plants that will give flowers throughout theentire season. The majority of annuals bloom most profusely in June andJuly, but the prevention of seed-development will force them into bloomduring the later months. 

Plan to have a few plants in reserve, to take the places of those whichmay fail. Something is liable to happen to a plant, at any time, andunless you have material at hand with which to make good the loss, therewill be a bare spot in your beds that will be an eye-sore all the restof the season. 

Plan to have the lowest growers near the path, or under the sitting-roomwindows where you can look down upon them. 

Plan to have a back-yard garden in which to give the plants not neededin the main garden a place. There will always be seedlings to thin out, and these ought not to be thrown away. If planted in some out-of-the-wayplace they will furnish you with plenty of material for cutting, andthis will leave the plants in the main garden undisturbed. 

THE BACK-YARD GARDEN

A great deal is written about the flower-garden that fronts the street, or is so located that it will attract the passer-by, but it is seldomthat we see any mention made of the garden in the back-yard. One wouldnaturally get the idea that the only garden worth having is the one thatwill attract the attention of the stranger, or the casual visitor. 

I believe in a flower-garden that will give more pleasure to the homeand its inmates than to anyone else, and where can such a garden belocated with better promise of pleasurable results than by the kitchendoor, where the busy housewife can blend the brightness of it with herdaily work, and breathe in the sweetness of it while about her indoortasks? It doesn't matter if its existence is unknown to the strangerwithin the gates, or that the passer-by does not get a glimpse of it. Itworks out its mission and ministry of cheer and brightness and beauty ina way that makes it the one garden most worth having. Ask the busywoman who catches fleeting glimpses of the beauty in it as she goesabout her work, and she will tell you that it is an inspiration to her, and that the sight of it rests her when most weary, and that itsnearness makes it a companion that seems to enter into all her moods. 

Last year I came across such a garden, and it pleased me so much that Ihave often looked back to it with a delightful memory of its homeliness, its utter lack of formality, and wished that it were possible for me tolet others see it as I saw it, for, were they to do so, I feel quitesure every home would have one like it. 

"I never take any pains with it, " the woman of the home said to me, halfapologetically. "That is, I don't try to make it like other folks'gardens. I don't believe I'd enjoy it so much if I were to. You see, ithasn't anything of the company air about it. It's more like the neighborthat 'just drops in' to sit a little while, and chat about neighborhoodhappenings that we don't dare to speak about when some one comes to makea formal call. I love flowers so much that it seemed as if I must have afew where I could see them, while I was busy in the kitchen. You know, awoman who does her own housework can't stop every time she'd like to torun out to the front-yard garden. So I began to plant hardy things here, and I've kept on ever since, till I've quite a collection, as you see. Just odds and ends of the plants that seem most like folks, you know. Itdoesn't amount to much as a garden, I suppose most folks would think, but you've no idea of the pleasure I get out of it. Sometimes when I getall fagged out over housework I go out and pull weeds in it, and hoe alittle, and train up the vines, and the first I know I'm ready to goback to work, with the tired feeling all gone. And do you know--theplants seem to enjoy it as much as I do? They seem to grow better herethan I could ever coax them to do in the front yard. But that's probablybecause they get the slops from the kitchen, and the soap-suds, everywash-day. It doesn't seem as if I worked among them at all. It's justplay. The fresh air of outdoors does me more good, I'm sure, than allthe doctors' tonics. And I'm not the only one in the family that enjoysthem. The children take a good deal of pride in 'mother's garden, ' andmy husband took time, one day, in the busiest part of the season, to putup that frame by the door, to train Morning Glories over. "

In this ideal home-garden were old-fashioned Madonna Lilies, such as Ihad not seen for years, and Bouncing Bets, ragged and saucy as ever, andSouthernwood, that gave off spicy odors every time one touched it, andAquilegias in blue and white and red, Life Everlasting, and Moss Pink, and that most delicious of all old-fashioned garden flowers, the SpicePink, with its fringed petals marked with maroon, as if some waysideartist had touched each one with a brush dipped in that color for thesimple mischief of the thing, and Hollyhocks, Rockets--almost all theold "stand-bys. " There was not one "new" flower there. If it had been, it would have seemed out of place. The Morning Glories were just gettingwell under way, and were only half-way up the door-frame, but I couldsee, with my mind's eye, what a beautiful awning they would make alittle later. I could imagine them peering into the kitchen, like saucy, fun-loving children, and laughing good-morning to the woman who "lovedflowers so well she couldn't get along without a few. "

You see, she was successful with them because she loved them. Because ofthat, the labor she bestowed upon them was play, not work. They werefriends of hers, and friendship never begrudges anything that givesproof of its existence in a practical way. And the flowers, grateful forthe friendship which manifested itself in so many helpful ways, repaidher generously in beauty and brightness and cheer by making themselves apart of her daily life. 

By all means, have a back-yard garden. 

THE WILD GARDEN

A PLEA FOR OUR NATIVE PLANTS

Many persons, I find, are under the impression that we have few, if any, native flowering plants and shrubs that are worthy a place in thehome-garden. They have been accustomed to consider them as "wildthings, " and "weeds, " forgetting or overlooking the fact that all plantsare wild things and weeds somewhere. So unfamiliar are they with many ofour commonest plants that they fail to recognize them when they meetthem outside their native haunts. Some years ago I transplanted aSolidago, --better known as a "Golden Rod, "--from a fence-corner of thepasture, and gave it a place in the home-garden. There it grewluxuriantly, and soon became a great plant that sent up scores of stalkseach season as high as a man's head, every one of them crowned with aplume of brilliant yellow flowers. The effect was simply magnificent. 

One day an old neighbor came along, and stopped to chat with me as Iworked among my plants. 

"That's a beauty, " he said as he leaned across the fence near the GoldenRod. "I don't know's I ever saw anything like it before. I reckon, now, you paid a good deal of money for that plant. "

"How much do you think it cost me?" I asked. 

"Oh, I don't know, " he answered, looking at the plant admiringly, andthen at some of foreign origin, near-by. He knew something about thevalue of these, as he had one of them growing in his garden. He seemedto be making a mental calculation, based on the relative beauty of theplants, and presently he said:

"I ain't much of a judge of such things, but I wouldn't wonder if youpaid as much as three--mebby four--an' like's not five dollars for it. "

"The plant cost me nothing but the labor of bringing it from thepasture, " I answered. "Don't you know what it is? There's any quantityof it back of your barn, I notice. "

"You don't mean to say that's yaller-weed, " exclaimed the old gentleman, with a disgusted look on his face. "I wouldn't have it in _my_ yard. We've got weeds enough 'thout settin' 'em out". He went away with alook on his face that made me think he felt as if he had been imposedon. 

While it is true, in many instances, that "familiarity breeds contempt, "it is equally true that familiarity without prejudice would open oureyes to the fact that beauty exists all about us--in lane, and field, and roadside, and forest. We are not aware of the prevalence of it untilwe go in search of it. When we go out with "the seeing eye, " we find iteverywhere. Nothing is so plentiful or so cheap as beauty to the loverof the beautiful. It may be had for the taking. We have fallen into thehabit of looking to foreign lands for plants with which to beautify ourgardens, thus neglecting and ignoring the beauty at our own doors. Ashrub with a long name and a good big price attached will win ouradmiration, while a native plant, vastly more desirable, will be whollyoverlooked. It ought not to be so. "Home first, the world afterward" isthe motto of many patriotic men and women, and it ought to be the mottoof the lover of the beautiful in plant-life when he is seeking forsomething with which to ornament the home-grounds. 

Many persons have, however, become greatly interested in our nativeplants, and it is apparent that the interest of the masses in whateveris beautiful is steadily increasing. The people are being educated to akeener appreciation of beauty than ever before. It is encouraging toknow that a demand has sprung up for shrubs and plants of Americanorigin--a demand so large, already, that many nurserymen advertisecollections of native plants, some of them quite extensive. Appreciationof true beauty is putting a value into things which have heretofore hadno idea of value connected with them. 

The dominant idea I had in mind, when this chapter was planned, was thatof enlisting the boys and girls in the work of making a collection ofnative plants. I would have them make what might properly be called awild garden. But I would not confine the undertaking to the boys andgirls. I would interest the man or woman who has a home to makebeautiful in the material that is to be found on every hand, waiting tobe utilized. Such a garden can be made of great educational value, and, at the same time, quite as ornamental as the garden that containsnothing but foreign plants. It can be made to assist in the developmentof patriotic as well as ęsthetic ideas. It can be made to stimulate ahealthy rivalry among the boys and girls, as well as the "children of alarger growth, " as to whose collection shall be most complete. In thecare and culture of these plants a skill and knowledge may be attainedthat will be of much benefit to them in the future, and possibly to theworld. Who knows? We may have among us a young Linnęus, or a Humboldt, and the making of a wild garden may tend to the discovery anddevelopment of a talent which coming years may make us proud to do honorto the possessor of. 

I would suggest the formation of a wild-garden society in each countryvillage and neighborhood. Organize expeditions into the surroundingcountry in search of shrubs and plants. Such excursions can be made asdelightful as a picnic. Take with you a good-sized basket, to containthe plants you gather, and some kind of a tool to dig the plantswith--and your dinner. Lift the plants very carefully, with enough earthabout them to keep their roots moist. On no account should their rootsbe allowed to get dry. If this happens you might as well throw themaway, at once, as no amount of after-attention will undo the damage thatis done by neglect to carry out this advice. 

[Illustration: PORCH BOX]

The search for plants should begin early in the season if they are to betransplanted in spring, for it would not be safe to attempt theirremoval after they have begun to make active growth. April is a goodtime to look up your plants, and May a good time to bring them home. Later on, when you come across a plant that seems a desirable additionto your collection, mark the place where it grows, and transplant to thehome grounds in fall, after its leaves have ripened. 

In transplanting shrubs and herbaceous plants, study carefully theconditions under which they have grown, and aim to make the conditionsunder which they _are to grow_ as similar to the original ones aspossible. Of course you will be able to do this only approximately, inmost instances, but come as near it as you can, for much of your successdepends on this. You can give your plants a soil similar to that inwhich they have been growing, and generally, by a little planning, youcan arrange for exposure to sunshine, or a shaded location, according tothe nature of the plants you make use of. Very often it is possible toso locate moisture-loving plants that they can have the damp soil somany of them need, by planting them in low places or depressions wherewater stands for some time after a rain, while those which prefer a drysoil can be given places on knolls and stony places from which waterruns off readily. In order to do this part of the work well it will benecessary to study your plants carefully before removing them from theirhome in the wood or field. Aim to make the change as easy as possiblefor them. This can only be done by imitating natural conditions--inother words, the conditions under which they have been growing up to thetime when you undertake their domestication. 

Not knowing, at the start, the kind of plants our collection willcontain, as it grows, we can have no definite plan to work to. Consequently there will be a certain unavoidable lack of system in thearrangement of the wild garden. But this may possibly be one of thechief charms of it, after a little. A garden formed on this plan--orlack of plan--will seem to have evolved itself, and the utter absence ofall formality will make it a more cunning imitation of Nature's methodsthan it would ever be if we began it with the intention of imitatingher. 

Among our early-flowering native plants worthy a place in any gardenwill be found the Dogwoods, the Plums, the Crab-apple, and the wildRose. Smaller plants, like the Trillium, the Houstonia, the Bloodroot, the Claytonia and the Hepatica, will work in charmingly in theforeground. Between them can be used many varieties of Fern, if thelocation is shaded somewhat, as it should be to suit the floweringplants I have named. 

Among the summer-flowering sorts we have Aquilegia, Daisy, Coreopsis, Cranesbill, Eupatorium, Meadow Sweet, Lily, Helianthus, Enothera, Rudbeckia, Vervain, Veronia, Lobelia and many others that grow here andthere, but are not found in all parts of the country, as those I havenamed are, for the most part. 

Among the shrubs are Elder, Spirea, Clethra, Sumach, Dogwood, and othersequally as desirable. 

Among the late bloomers are the Solidagos (Golden Rod), Asters, Helenium, Ironweed, and others which continue to bloom until coldweather is at hand. 

Among the desirable vines are the Ampelopsis, which vies with the Sumachin richness of color in fall, the Bittersweet, with its profusion offruitage as brilliant as flowers, and the Clematis, beautiful in bloom, and quite as attractive later, when its seeds take on their peculiarfeathery appendages that make the plant look as if a gray plume had beentorn apart and scattered over the plant, portions of it adhering toevery branch in the most airy, graceful manner imaginable. 

Though I have named only our most familiar wild plants, it will beobserved that the list is quite a long one. No one need be afraid of notbeing able to obtain plants enough to stock a good-sized garden. Thetrouble will be, in most instances, to find room for all the plants youwould like to have represented in your collection, after you becomethoroughly interested in the delightful work of making it. Theattraction of it will increase as the collection increases, and as youdiscover what a wealth of material for garden-making we have at our verydoors, without ever having dreamed of its existence, you will be temptedto exceed the limitations of the place because of the embarrassment ofriches which makes a decision between desirable plants difficult. Youcan have but few of them, but you would like all. 

THE WINTER GARDEN

Most persons who are the owners of gardens seem to be under theimpression that we must close the summer volume of Nature's book at theend of the season, and that it must remain closed until the spring ofanother year invites us to a re-perusal of its attractive pages. Inother words, that we are not expected to derive much pleasure from thegarden for six months of the year. 

There is no good reason why the home-grounds should not be attractivethe year round if we plant for winter as well as summer effect. 

True, we cannot have flowers in winter, but we can secure color-effectswith but little trouble that will make good, to a considerable extent, the lack of floral color. Without these the winter landscape is cold, though beautiful, and to most persons it will seem dreary and monotonousin its chill whiteness. But to those who have "the seeing eye, " thereare always elements of wonderful beauty in it, and there is amplematerial at hand with which to give it the touches of brightness thatcan make it almost as attractive as it is in June. 

If the reader will carefully study the two illustrations accompanyingthis chapter, he will have to admit that the winter garden has manyattractive features that the summer garden cannot boast of. Theseillustrations are summer and winter views of the same spot, taken fromone of our public parks. The summer view shows a wealth of foliage andbloom, and is one of Nature's beauty-spots that we never tire of. Butthe winter view has in it a suggestion of breadth and distance that addswonderfully to the charm of the scene, brought out as it is by the nakedbranches against the sky, and glimpses of delightful vistas farther on, which are entirely hidden by the foliage that interferes with theoutlook in the summer picture. Note how the evergreens stand out sharplyagainst the background, and how clearly every shrub--every branch--isoutlined by the snow. It is one of Nature's etchings. Whatever colorthere is in the landscape is heightened and emphasized by strong, vividcontrast. There are little touches of exquisite beauty in this picturethat cannot be found in the other. 

Most of us plant a few evergreens about our homes. Sometimes we arefortunate enough to locate them where they will prove effective. Oftenerwe put them where they have no chance to display their charms to goodeffect. They do not belong near the house--least of all in the "frontyard. " They must be admired at a distance which will soften theircoarseness of habit. You must be far enough away from them to be able totake in their charms of form and color at a glance, to observe thegraceful sweep of their branches against the snow, and to fully bringout the strength and richness of color, none of which things can be doneat close range. Looked at from a proper and respectful distance, everygood specimen of evergreen will afford a great deal of pleasure. But itmight be made to afford a great deal more if we were to set about it inthe right way. Why not make our evergreens serve as backgrounds againstwhich to bring out colors that rival, to some extent, the flowers ofsummer?

Have you never taken a tramp along the edge of the woodland in winter, and come suddenly upon a group of Alders? What brightness seemed toradiate from their spikes of scarlet berries! The effect is somethinglike that of a flame, so intense is it. It seems to radiate through thewinter air with a thrill of positive warmth. So strong an impression dothey make upon the eye that you see them long after you have passedthem. They photograph themselves there. Why should we not transplantthis bit of woodland glory to the garden, and heighten the effect of itby giving it an evergreen as a background? Its scarlet fire, seenagainst the dark greenery of Spruce or Arbor Vitę, would make the wintergarden fairly glow with color. 

I have seen the red-branched Willow planted near an evergreen, and thecontrast of color brought out every branch so keenly that it seemedchiselled from coral. The effect was exquisite. 

Train Celastrus _scandens_, better known as Bittersweet, where itspendant clusters of red and orange can show against evergreens, and youproduce an effect that can be equalled by few flowers. 

The Berberry is an exceedingly useful shrub with which to work up vividcolor-effects in winter. It shows attractively among other shrubs, ischarming when seen against a drift of snow, but is never quite soeffective as when its richness of coloring is emphasized by contrast bythe sombre green of a Spruce or Balsam. 

Our native Cranberry--Viburnum _opulus_--is one of our bestberry-bearing shrubs. It holds its crimson fruit well in winter. Plantedamong--not against--evergreens, it is wonderfully effective because ofits tall and stately habit. 

Bayberry (Myrica _cerifera_) is another showy-fruited shrub. Itsgrayish-white berries are thickly studded along its brown branches, andare retained through the winter. If this is planted side by side withthe Alder, the effect will be found very pleasing. 

The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus _racemosus_) has been cultivated fornearly a hundred years in our gardens, and probably stands at the headof the list of white-fruited shrubs. If this is planted in front ofevergreens the purity of its color is brought out charmingly. Group itwith the red-barked Willow, the Alder, or the Berberry, and you secure acontrast that makes the effect strikingly delightful--a symphony ingreen, scarlet, and white. If to this combination you add the blue of awinter sky or the glow of a winter sunset, who can say there is notplenty of color in a winter landscape?

The value of the Mountain Ash in winter decoration is just beginning tobe understood. If it retained its fruit throughout the entire season itwould be one of our most valuable plants, but the birds claim itscrimson fruit as their especial property, and it is generally without aberry by Christmas in localities where robins and other berry-eatingbirds linger late in the season. Up to that time it is exceedinglyattractive, especially if it is planted where it can have the benefit ofstrong contrast to bring out the rich color of its great clusters. Because of its tall and stately habit it will be found very effectivewhen planted between evergreens, with other bright-colored shrubs in theforeground. 

There are many shrubs whose berries are blue, and purple, and black. While these are not as showy as those of scarlet and white, they arevery attractive, and can be made extremely useful in the winter garden. They should not be neglected, because they widen the range of color tosuch an extent that the charge of monotony of tone in the winterlandscape is ineffective. 

The Ramanas Rose (R. _lucida_) has very brilliant clusters of crimsonfruit which retains its beauty long after the holidays. This shrub isreally more attractive in winter than in summer. 

It will be understood, from what I said at the beginning of thischapter, that I put high value on the decorative effect of leaflessshrubs. Their branches, whether traced against a background of sky orsnow, make an embroidery that has about it a charm that summer cannotequal in delicacy. A Bittersweet, clambering over bush or tree, anddisplaying its many clusters of red and orange against a background ofleafless branches, with the intense blue of winter sky showing throughthem, makes a picture that is brilliant in the extreme, when youconsider the relative values of the colors composing it. Then you willdiscover that the charm is not confined to the color of the fruit, butto the delicate tracery of branch and twig, as well. 

WINDOW AND VERANDA BOXES

Somebody had a bright thought when the window-box came into existence. The only wonder is that persons who were obliged to forego the pleasureof a garden did not think it out long ago. It is one of the"institutions" that have come to stay. We see more of them every year. Those who have gardens--or could have them, if they wanted them--seem tohave a decided preference for the window-box substitute. 

There is a good reason for this: The window-box brings the garden toone's room, while the garden obliges one to make it a visit in order toenjoy the beauty in it. With the window-box the upstair room can be madeas pleasant as those below, and the woman in the kitchen can enjoy thecompanionship of flowers while she busies herself with her housewifelyduties, if she does not care to make herself a back-yard garden such asI have spoken of in a preceding chapter. And the humble home that hasno room for flowers outside its walls, the homes in the congested city, away up, up, up above the soil in which a few flowers might possibly becoaxed to grow, if man thought less of gain and more of beauty, can bemade more like what home ought to be, with but little trouble andexpense, by giving these boxes a chance to do their good work at theirwindows. Blessed be the window-box!

Many persons, however, fail to attain success in the cultivation ofplants in boxes at the window-sill, and their failures have given riseto the impression in the minds of those who have watched theirundertaking, that success with them is very problematical. "It _looks_easy, " said a woman to me last season, "when you see somebody else's boxjust running over with vines, but when you come to make the attempt foryourself you wake up to the fact that there's a knack to it that most ofus fail to discover. I've tried my best, for the last three years, tohave such boxes as my neighbor has, and I haven't found out what's wrongyet. I invest in the plants that are told me to be best adapted towindow-box culture. I plant them, and then I coax them and coddle them. I fertilize them and I shower them, but they stubbornly refuse to dowell. They _start off_ all right, but by the time they ought to be doinggreat things they begin to look rusty, and it isn't long before theylook so sickly and forlorn that I feel like putting them out of theirmisery by dumping them in the ash-heap. "

Now this woman's experience is the experience of many other women. Shethinks, --and they think, --that they lack the "gift" that enables somepersons to grow flowers successfully while others fail utterly withthem. They haven't "the knack. " Now, as I have said elsewhere in thisbook, there's no such thing as "a knack" in flower-growing. Instead of"a knack" it's a "know-how. " Ninety-nine times out of a hundred failurewith window-boxes is due to just one thing: They let their plants diesimply because they do not give them water enough. 

Liberal watering is the "know-how" that a person must have to make asuccess of growing; good plants in window and veranda boxes. Simplythat, and nothing more. 

The average woman isn't given to "studying into things" as much as theaverage man is, so she often fails to get at the whys and wherefores ofmany happenings. She sees the plants in her boxes dying slowly, but shefails to take note of the fact that evaporation from these boxes isvery rapid. It could not be otherwise because of their exposure to windand air on all sides. She applies water in quantities only sufficient towet the surface of the soil, and because that looks moist she concludesthere must be sufficient moisture below and lets it go at that. Examination would show her that an inch below the surface the soil inthe box is very, very dry, --so dry, in fact, that no roots could findsustenance in it. This explains why plants "start off" well. While youngand small their roots are close to the surface, and as long as theyremain in that condition they grow well enough, but as soon as theyattempt to send their roots down--as all plants do, after the earlierstages of growth--they find no moisture, and in a short time they die. 

If, instead of applying a basinful of water, a pailful were used, daily, all the soil in a box of ordinary size would be made moist all through, and so long as a supply of water is kept up there is no reason why justas fine plants cannot be grown in boxes as in pots, or the garden beds. There is no danger of overwatering, for all surplus water will run offthrough the holes in the box, provided for drainage. Therefore make it arule to apply to your window-box, every day, throughout the season, enough water to thoroughly saturate all the soil in it. If this is done, you will come to the conclusion that at last you have discovered the"knack" upon which success depends. 

I am often asked what kind of boxes I consider best. To which I reply:"The kind that comes handiest. " It isn't the box that your plants growin that counts for much. It's the care you give. Of course the soilought to be fairly rich, though a soil of ordinary fertility can be madeto answer all purposes if a good dose of plant food is givenoccasionally. Care should be taken, however, not to make too frequentuse of it, as it is an easy matter to force a growth that will be weakbecause of its rapidity, and from which there may be a disastrousreaction after a little. The result to aim at is a healthy growth, andwhen you secure that, be satisfied with it. 

The idea prevails to a considerable extent that one must make use ofplants specially adapted to window-box culture. Now the fact is--almostany kind of plant can be grown in these boxes, there being no "specialadaption" to this purpose, except as to profusion of bloom and habit ofgrowth. Drooping plants are desirable to trail over the sides of thebox, and add that touch of grace which is characteristic of allvines. Plants that bloom freely throughout the season should bechosen in preference to shy and short-season bloomers. Geraniums, Petunias, Verbenas, Fuchsias, Salvias, Heliotropes, Paris Daisies--allthese are excellent. 

[Illustration: PORCH BOX]

If one cares to depend on foliage for color, most pleasing results canbe secured by making use of the plants of which mention has been made inthe chapter on Carpet-Bedding. 

Vines that will give satisfaction are Glechoma, green, with yellowvariegation--Vinca _Harrisonii_, also green and yellow, Moneywort, German Ivy, Tradescantia, Thunbergia, and Othonna. A combination ofplants with richly-colored foliage is especially desirable for boxes onthe porch or veranda, where showiness seems to be considered as moreimportant than delicacy of tint or refinement of quality. In these boxeslarger plants can be used than one would care to give place to at thewindow. Here is where Cannas and Caladiums will be found very effective. 

Ferns, like the Boston and Pierson varieties, are excellent for not toosunny window-boxes because of their graceful drooping and spreadinghabit. They combine well with pink-and-white Fuchsias, rose-colored IvyGeraniums, and the white Paris Daisy. Petunias--the single sortsonly--are very satisfactory, because they bloom so freely andconstantly, and have enough of the droop in them to make them as usefulin covering the sides of the box as they are in spreading over itssurface. If pink and white varieties are used to the exclusion of themottled and variegated kinds the effect will be found vastly morepleasing than where there is an indiscriminate jumbling of colors. 

A foot in width, a foot in depth, and the length of the window frame towhich it is to be attached is a good size for the average window-box. Great care must be taken to see that it is securely fastened to theframe, and that it is given a strong support, for the amount of earth itwill contain will be of considerable weight when well saturated withwater. 

Veranda boxes, in which larger plants are to be used, should beconsiderably deeper and wider than the ordinary window-box. Any box ofthe size desired that is substantial enough to hold a sufficient amountof soil will answer all purposes, therefore it is not necessary toinvest in expensive goods unless you have so much money that economy isno object to you. If your plants grow as they ought to no one can tell, by midsummer, whether your box cost ten dollars or ten cents. If it isof wood, give it a coat of some neutral-colored paint before you fillit. 

SPRING WORK IN THE GARDEN

Not much actual work can be done in the garden, at the north, before themiddle of April. But a good deal can be done toward getting ready foractive work as soon as conditions become favorable. 

Right here let me say that it is a most excellent plan to do all thatcan be done to advantage as early in the season as possible, for thereason that when the weather becomes warm, work will come with a rush, and in the hurry of it quite likely some of it will be slighted. Alwaysaim to keep ahead of your work. 

I believe, as I have several times said, in planning things. Your gardenmay be small--so small that you do not think it worth while to give muchconsideration to it in the way of making plans for it--but it will payyou to think over the arrangement of it in advance. "Making garden"doesn't consist simply in spading up a bed, and putting seed into theground. Thought should be given to the location and arrangement of eachkind of flower you make use of. The haphazard location of any plant islikely to do it injustice, and the whole garden suffers in consequence. 

Make a mental picture of your garden as you would like to have it, andthen take an inventory of the material you have to work with, and seehow near you can come to the garden you have in mind. Try to find theproper place for every flower. Study up on habit, and color, and seasonof bloom, and you will not be likely to get things into the wrong placeas you will be almost sure to do if you do not give considerable thoughtto this matter. There should be orderliness and system in the garden aswell as in the house, and this can only come by knowing your plants, andso locating them that each one of them will have the opportunity ofmaking the most of itself. 

Beds can be spaded as soon as the frost is out of the ground, as advisedin the chapter on The Garden of Annuals, but, as was said in thatchapter, it is not advisable to do more with them at that time. If theground is worked over when wet, the only result is that you get a goodmany small clods to take the place of large ones. Nothing is gained bybeing in a hurry with this part of the work. Pulverization of the soilcan only be accomplished successfully after it has parted with theexcessive moisture consequent on melting snows and spring rains. Therefore let it lie as thrown up by the spade until it is in acondition to crumble readily under the application of hoe or rake. 

Shrubs can be reset as soon as frost is out of the ground. Remove alldefective roots when this is done. Make the soil in which you plant themquite rich, and follow the instruction given in the chapter on Shrubs ascarefully as possible, in the work of resetting. 

If any changes are to be made in the border, plan for them now. Decidejust what you want to do. Don't allow any guesswork about it. If you"think out" these things the home grounds will improve year by year, andyou will have a place to be proud of. But the planless system which somany follow never gives satisfactory results. It gives one theimpression of something that started for somewhere but never arrived atits destination. 

Old border plants which have received little or no attention for yearswill be greatly benefited by transplanting at this season. Cut away allthe older roots, and make use of none that are not strong and healthy. Give them a rich soil. Most of them will have renewed themselves bymidsummer. 

If you do not care to take up the old plants, cut about them with asharp knife, and remove as many of the old roots as possible. This isoften almost as effective as transplanting, and it does not involve asmuch labor. 

The lawn should be given attention at this season. Rake off allunsightly refuse that may have collected on it during winter. Give it anapplication of some good fertilizer. It is quite important that thisshould be done early in the season, as grass begins to grow almost assoon as frost is out of the ground, and the sward should have somethingto feed on as soon as it is ready for work. 

Go over all the shrubs and see if any need attention in the way ofpruning. But don't touch them with the pruning knife unless they reallyneed it. Cut out old wood and weak branches, if there are any, and thin, if too thick, but leave the bush to train itself. It knows more aboutthis than you do!

Get racks and trellises ready for summer use. These are generally madeon the spur of the moment, out of whatever material comes handiest atthe time they are needed. Such hurriedly constructed things are prettysure to prove eyesores. The gardener who takes pride in his work and hisgarden will not be satisfied with makeshifts, but will see thatwhatever is needed, along this line, is well made, and looks so wellthat he has no reason to be ashamed of it. It should be painted a darkgreen or some other neutral color. 

Rake the mulch away from the plants that were given protection in fallas soon as the weather gets warm enough to start them to growing. Or itcan be dug into the soil about them to act as a fertilizer. Get it outof sight, for it always gives the garden an untidy effect if left aboutthe plants. 

Go over the border plants and uproot all grass that has secured afoothold there. A space of a foot should be left about all shrubs andperennials in which nothing should be allowed to grow. 

If any plants seem out of place, take them up and put them where theybelong. If you cannot find a place where they seem to fit in, discardthem. The garden will be better off without them, no matter howdesirable they are, than with them if their presence createscolor-discord. 

Peonies can be moved to advantage now. If you cut about the old clumpand lift a good deal of earth with it, and do not interfere with itsroots, no harm will be done. But if you mutilate its roots, or exposethem, you need not expect any flowers from the plant for a season ortwo. 

Get stakes ready for the Dahlias. These should be painted someunobtrusive color. If this is done, and they are taken proper care of infall, they will last for years. This is true of racks and trellises. 

Provide yourself with a hoe, an iron-toothed rake, a weeding-hook, atrowel for transplanting, a wheel-barrow, a spade, and a watering-pot. See that the latter is made from galvanized iron if you want it to last. Tin pots will rust out in a short time. 

Take your watering-pot to the tinsmith and have him fit it out with anextension spout--one that can be slipped on to the end of the spout thatcomes with the pot. Let this be at least two feet in length. This willenable you to apply water to the roots of plants standing well back inthe border, or across beds, and get it just where it will do the mostgood, but a short-spouted plant will not do this unless you take a goodmany unnecessary steps in making the application. 

Be sure to send in your orders for seed and plants early in the season. Have everything on hand, ready for putting into the ground when theproper time comes to do this. 

SUMMER WORK IN THE GARDEN

If weeds are kept down through the early part of the season, there willnot be a great deal of weeding to do in midsummer. Still, we cannotafford to take it for granted that they require no attention, for theyare most aggressive things, and so persistent are they that they willtake advantage of every opportunity for perpetuating themselves. Therefore be on the lookout for them, and as soon as you discover onethat has thought to escape your notice by hiding behind some floweringplant, uproot it. One weed will furnish seed enough to fill the entiregarden with plants next year if let alone. 

If the season happens to be very dry, some of your plants--Dahlias, forinstance, --will have to be watered if you want them to amount toanything. These must have moisture at their roots in order to flowerwell. 

Other plants may be able to get along with a mulch of grass-clippingsfrom the lawn. Most of our annuals will stand quite a drouth. 

If one is connected with a system of waterworks it is an easy matterto tide a garden over a drouth. But where there is nothing but the pumpto depend on for a supply of water, I would not advise beginningartificial watering except in rare cases, like that of the Dahlia. Wealways find that so much work is required in supplying our plants fromthe pump that after a little we abandon the undertaking, and the resultis that the plants we set out to be kind to are left in a worsecondition, when we give up our spasmodic attention, than they would havebeen in if we had not begun it. 

It is well to use the hoe constantly if the season is a dry one. Keepthe surface of the soil open that it may take in all the moisturepossible. On no account allow it to become crusted over. 

Seed of perennials can be sown now to furnish plants for flowering nextseason. 

Look to the Dahlias, and make sure they are properly staked. 

Be on the lookout for black beetle on Aster and Chrysanthemum. As soonas one is discovered apply Nicoticide, and apply it thoroughly, all overthe plant. Promptness is demanded in fighting this voracious pest. 

During the latter part of summer, when the extreme hot weather that wehave at the north sets in, cut away nearly all the top of thePansy-plants. This will give the plants a chance to rest during theseason when they are not equal to the task of flowering, because of thehot, dry weather which is so trying to them. Along in September, whenthe weather becomes cooler, they will take a fresh start and give usfine flowers all through the fall. 

Look over the perennials and satisfy yourself that there iscolor-harmony everywhere. If you find a discord anywhere, mark the plantthat makes it for removal later on. 

Be sure to keep all seed from developing on the Sweet Peas. This you_must_ do if you would have a good crop of flowers during the fallmonths. 

If any plants seem too thick, sacrifice some of them promptly. No plantcan develop itself satisfactorily if it is crowded. 

Poor plants will find their way into all collections. If you find one inyours, remove it at once. There are so many good ones at our disposalthat we cannot afford to give place, even for a season, to an inferiorkind. 

Let neatness prevail everywhere. Gather up dead leaves and fallenflowers, cut away the stalks of plants upon which no more flowers can beexpected, and keep the walks looking as if you expected visitors at anytime, and were determined not to be caught in untidy garments. 

While the good gardener can always find something to do in the garden, he will not have as much work on his hands at this season as at anyother, therefore it is the time in which he can get the greatest amountof pleasure from his flowers, and in proportion to his care of themearlier in the season will be the pleasure they afford now. 

FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN

Because the growth of grass on the lawn is not as luxuriant and rapid infall as it is in midsummer, is no reason why the lawn should beneglected after summer is over. It should be mowed whenever the grassgets too tall to look well, clear up to the end of the season. The neatand attractive appearance of the home-grounds depends more upon the lawnthan anything else about them. It is a good plan to fertilize it well infall, thus enabling the roots of the sward to store up nutriment for thecoming season. Fine bonemeal is as good for this purpose as anything Iknow of except barnyard manure, and it is superior to that in onerespect--it does not contain the seeds of weeds. 

Go over the garden before the end of the season and gather up all plantsthat have completed their work. If we neglect to give attention to thebeds now that the flowering-period is over, a general appearance ofuntidiness will soon dominate everything. Much of the depressing effectof late fall is due to this lack of attention. The prompt removal of allunsightly objects will keep the grounds looking _clean_ after the seasonhas passed its prime, and we all know what the Good Book's estimate ofcleanliness is. 

Seedlings of such perennials as Hollyhock, Delphinium, and other plantsof similar character, ought to be transplanted to the places they are tooccupy next season by the last of September. If care is taken not todisturb their roots when you lift them they will receive no check. 

If you give your Hybrid Perpetual Roses a good, sharp cutting-back earlyin September, and manure the soil about them well, you may reasonablyexpect a few fine flowers from them later on. And what is moredelightful than a perfect Rose gathered from your own garden just at theedge of winter?

Perennials can be divided and reset, if necessary, immediately afterthey have ripened off the growth of the present year. If this work isdone now, there will be just so much less to do in spring. 

Before the coming of cold weather all tools used in gardening operationsshould be gathered up and stored under cover. If any repairs areneeded, make note of them, and see that the work is done in winter, sothat everything needed in spring may be in readiness for use. It is agood plan to give all wood-work a coat of paint at the time it is storedaway, and to go over the metal part of every tool with a wash ofvaseline to prevent rust. 

Have a general house-cleaning before winter sets in. Cut away the stalksof the perennials. Pull up all annuals. Rake up the leaves, and addeverything of this kind to the compost heap. All garden refuse shouldfind its way there, to be transmuted by the alchemy of sun and rain, andthe disintegrating forces of nature into that most valuable of soilconstituents--humus. Let nothing that has any value in it be wasted. 

After hard frosts have killed the tops of Dahlias, Cannas, Caladiums andGladioluses, their roots should be dug, on some warm and sunny day, andprepared for storage in the cellar or closet. Spread them out in thesunshine, and leave them there until the soil that was dug with them isdry enough to crumble away from them. At night cover with something tokeep out the cold, and expose them to the curative effects of the sunnext day. It may be necessary to do this several days in succession. Thegreat amount of moisture which they contain when first dug should begiven a chance to evaporate to a considerable extent before it will besafe to put them away for the winter. Cut off the old stalks close tothe root before storing. 

While clearing the beds of dead plants and leaves be on the lookout forinsects of various kinds. The cut-worm may still be in evidence, and maybe found among the rubbish which you gather up. And if found, destroy iton the spot. This precaution will go far toward safeguarding plants inspring, many of which are annually injured by the depredations of thispest. 

When you are sure that cold weather is at hand, cover the bulb-bed withcoarse manure or litter, hay, or straw, as advised in the chapter on TheBulb Garden. And give your Roses the protection advised in the chapteron The Rose. 

Cover Pansies lightly with leaves or evergreen branches. If you havemulch enough, apply some to your hardy plants, and next spring note thedifference between them and the plants which were not given anyprotection. 

BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT

A CHAPTER OF AFTERTHOUGHTS WHICH THE READER CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS

[Illustration: PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS]

Think things out for yourself. Do not try to copy anybody else's garden, as so many attempt to do. Be original. What you see on your neighbor'shome grounds may suggest something similar for your own grounds, but becontent with the idea suggested. He may not have a patent on his ownworking-out of the idea--indeed, the idea may not have been one of hisoriginating--but the manner in which he has expressed it is his own andyou should respect his right to it. Imitation of what others have done, or are doing, is likely to spoil everything. If the best you can do isto copy your neighbor's work servilely in all its details, turn yourattention to something else. If all the flower-gardens in theneighborhood were simply duplicates of each other in material andarrangement, the uniformity of them would be so monotonous in effectthat it would be a relief to find a place that was without a garden. 

 * * * * *

Never imitate anything that you see on the grounds of wealthy peoplewith cheap and inferior material. The result will be a sham that willdeceive no one, and you will soon tire of it, and the sooner the better. Be honest. If you have only cheap material to work with, be satisfiedwith unambitious undertakings. Let them be in keeping with what you haveto work with--simple, unpretentious, and without any attempt in the wayof deception. The humblest home can be made attractive by holding fastto the principle of honesty in everything that is done about it. It isnot necessary to imitate in order to make it attractive. Think outthings for yourself, and endeavor to do the best you can with thematerial at hand, and under the conditions that prevail, and be contentwith that. The result will afford you vastly more satisfaction, even ifit does not measure up to what you would like, than you can possiblyrealize by imitating another's work. There is a deal of pleasure inbeing able to say about one's home or garden, "It may not be as fine asmy neighbor's, but, such as it is, it is all mine. I have put myselfinto it. It may be plain and humble, but--there's honesty in it. " Andthat is a feature you have a right to be proud of. 

 * * * * *

Never make the mistake of neglecting good old plants for the sake ofsomething new, simply because it is new. Old plants--plants that haveheld their own against all newcomers--are the ones to depend on. Thefact that they _have_ held their own is sufficient proof of theirmerits. Had they been inferior in any respect they would have droppedfrom notice long ago, like the "novelties" that aspired to take theirplaces. Old plants are like old friends, old wine--all the betterbecause of their age. There's something substantial about them. We donot tire of them. We know what to expect of them, and they neverdisappoint us. 

 * * * * *

Never make the mistake of thinking the shape of a bed deserves moreconsideration than what you put into the bed. It's the flower thatdeserves attention, --not the bed it grows in. It isn't treating a flowerwith proper respect to give it secondary place. 

 * * * * *

Many an amateur gardener tries to have a little of everything, and theresult is that he has nothing worth speaking of, because quality hasbeen sacrificed to quantity. Grow only as many flowers as you can growwell, and be wise in selecting only such kinds as do best under theconditions in which they must be grown. Depend upon kinds that have beentried and not found wanting unless you have a fondness forexperimenting. 

 * * * * *

No really artistic results can be secured by the use of seeds in whichall colors are mixed. If you desire harmonious effects, you will have topurchase seed in which each color is by itself. A few varieties in whichthere is perfect color-harmony will please you far more than acollection in which all the colors of the rainbow are represented. Takethe Sweet Pea as an illustration of this idea: From a package of mixedseed you will get a score of different colors or shades, and many ofthese, though beautiful in themselves, will produce positive discordwhen grown side by side. The eye of the person who has fine color-sensewill be pained by the lack of harmony. But confine your selection to thesoft pinks, the delicate lavenders, and the pure whites, and the resultwill be something to delight the artistic eye--restful, harmonious, andas pleasing as a strain of exquisite poetry--in fact, a poem in color. What is true of the Sweet Pea, in this respect, is equally true of allplants which range through a great variety of colors. Bear this in mindwhen you select seeds for your garden of annuals. 

 * * * * *

Don't throw away any plants that are worth growing. If you have no usefor them some of your neighbors will doubtless be glad to get them. Givethem to the poor children of your neighborhood, and tell them how tocare for them, and you will not only be doing a kind deed but you willbe putting into the life that needs uplifting and refining influences ameans of help and education that you little guess the power of for good. For every plant is a teacher, and a preacher of the gospel of beauty, and its mission is to brighten and broaden every life that comes underits influence. All that it asks is an opportunity to fulfill thatmission. 

 * * * * *

If no one cares for the plants you have no use for, give them a place inout-of-the-way nooks and corners--in the roadside, even, if there is noother place for them. A stock of this kind, to draw upon in case any ofyour old plants fail in winter, will save expense and trouble, andprevent bare spots from detracting from the appearance of the homegrounds. It is always well to have a few plants in reserve for just suchemergencies as this. Very frequently the odds-and-ends corner of thegarden is the most attractive feature in it. 

 * * * * *

Many a place is all but spoiled because its owner finds it difficult toconfine his selection of plants for it to the number it willconveniently accommodate. There are so many desirable ones to choosefrom that it is no easy matter to determine which you will have, because--you want them all! But one must be governed by the conditionsthat cannot be changed. Unfortunately the home-lot is not elastic. Smallgrounds necessitate small collections if we would avoid cluttering upthe place in a manner that makes it impossible to grow anything well. Shrubs must have elbow-room in order to display their attractions to thebest advantage. Keep this in mind, and set out only as many as therewill be room for when they have fully developed. It may cost you a pangto discard an old favorite, but often it has to be done out of regardfor the future welfare of the kinds you feel you _must have_. If youoverstock your garden, it will give you many pangs to see how the plantsin it suffer from the effect of crowding. If you cannot have _all_ thegood things, have the very best of the list, and try to grow them sowell that they will make up in quality for the lack in quantity. I knowof a little garden in which but three plants grow, but the owner of themgives them such care that these three plants attract more attention frompassers-by than any other garden on that street. 

 * * * * *

Be methodical in your garden-work. Keep watch of everything, and whenyou see something that needs doing, do it. And do it well. One secret ofsuccess in gardening is in doing everything as if it was _the_ one thingto be done. Slight nothing. 

 * * * * *

For vines that do not grow thick enough to hide everything with theirfoliage, a lattice framework of lath, painted white, is the mostsatisfactory support, because of the pleasing color-contrast between itand the plants trained over it. Both support and plant will beornamental, and one will admirably supplement the other. The latticewill be an attractive feature of the garden when the vine that grew overit is dead, if it is kept neatly painted. 

 * * * * *

But for the rampant grower a coarse-meshed wire netting is just as good, and considerably less expensive, in the long run, as it will do duty formany years, if taken care of at the end of the season. Roll it up andput it under cover before the fall rains set in. 

 * * * * *

The simple fact of newness is nothing in any plant's favor. Unless ithas real merit, it will not find purchasers after the first season. Better wait until you know what a plant is before investing in it. Wehave so many excellent plants with whose good qualities we are familiarthat it is not necessary to run any risks of this kind. 

 * * * * *

Many home-owners make the mistake of putting down boardwalks about thedwelling and yard. Such a walk is never attractive, and it has not themerit of durability, for after a year or two it will need repairs, andfrom that time on it will be a constant source of expense. Thevariegated appearance of a patched-up boardwalk will seriously detractfrom the attractiveness of any garden. It may cost more, at first, toput down cement walks, --though I am inclined to doubt this, at thepresent price of lumber--but such walks are good for a lifetime, ifproperly constructed, therefore much cheaper in the end. There can be notwo opinions as to their superior appearance. Their cool gray colorbrings them into harmony with their surroundings. They are neverobtrusive. They are easily cleaned, both summer and winter. And thehome-maker can put them in quite as well as the professional worker incement if he sets out to do so, though he may be longer at the work. 

 * * * * *

But _make sure_ about the location of your paths before putting incement walks. That is--be quite sure that you know where you want themto be. A boardwalk can be changed at any time with but little troubleif you get it in the wrong place, but a cement walk, once down, is downfor all time, unless you are willing to spend a good deal of hard laborin its removal. 

 * * * * *

Never do spasmodic work in the garden. The unwise gardener neglects whatneeds doing until so much has accumulated that he is forced to give itattention, and then he hurries in his efforts to dispose of it, and theconsequence is that much of it is likely to be so poorly done thatplants suffer nearly as much from his hasty operations as they did fromneglect. Do whatever needs doing in a systematic way, and keep ahead ofyour work. Never be driven by it. 

 * * * * *

It is one of the most satisfactory laws of Nature that we can have onlywhat we work for. Too many seem to forget this, and think that because aflower hasn't a market value, like corn or wheat, it ought to growwithout any attention on their part. Such persons do not understand thereal value of a flower, which is none the less because it cannot becomputed on the basis of a dollars-and-cents calculation. 

 * * * * *

Man, wife, and all the children ought to work together for whatever addsbeauty to the home, and nothing is more effective in this line than agood flower-garden. I can remember when it was considered an indicationof weakness for a man to admit that he was fond of flowers. I look backwith amusement to my own experience in this respect. Because I lovedflowers so well, when I was a wee bit of a lad, that I attempted to growthem, I was often laughed at for being a "girl-boy. " "He ought to havebeen a girl, " one of my uncles used to say. "You'll have to learn him todo sewing and housework. " It often stung me to anger to listen to thesesarcastic remarks, but I am glad that my love for flowers was strongenough to keep me at work among them, for I know that I am a better manto-day than I would have been had I allowed myself to be ridiculed outof my love for them. If the children manifest a desire to have littlegardens of their own encourage them to do so, and feel sure that thecultivation of them will prove to be a strong factor in the developmentof the child mind. 

 * * * * *

Seedling Hollyhocks almost always look well when winter comes, but inspring we find their leaves decaying from the effect of too muchmoisture, and this decay is likely to be communicated to the crown ofthe plant, and that means failure. Of late years I protect my plants byinverting small boxes over them. The sides of these boxes are bored fullof holes to admit air, which must be allowed to circulate freely aboutthe plant, or it will smother. I invert a box over the plant afterfilling it with leaves, and draw more leaves about the outside of it. This prevents water from coming in contact with the soft, sponge-likefoliage, and the plant comes out in spring almost as green as it was infall. 

 * * * * *

Plants can be moved with comparative safety any time during the summerif one is careful to disturb their roots as little as possible. Takethem up with a large amount of soil adhering, and handle so carefullythat it will not break apart. It is a good plan to apply enough waterbefore attempting to lift them to thoroughly saturate all the soilcontaining the roots. This will hold the earth together, and preventexposure of the roots, which is the main thing to guard against. 

 * * * * *

After putting the plant in place, apply water liberally, and then mulchthe soil about it with grass-clippings or manure. Of course removal atthat season will check the growth of the plant to a considerable extent, and probably end its usefulness for the remainder of the season. Unlessabsolutely necessary, I would not attempt the work at this time, forspring and fall are the proper seasons for doing it. 

 * * * * *

In a letter recently received a lady asks this question: "Do you believein flower-shows? If you think they help the cause of flower-growing, will you kindly tell me how to go to work to organize such a society?"

To the first question I reply: I _do_ believe in flower-shows andhorticultural societies when they are calculated to increase the loveand appreciation of flowers _as_ flowers, rather than to call attentionto the skill of the florist in producing freaks which are onlyattractive as curiosities. I sincerely hope that the day ofChrysanthemums a foot across and Roses as large as small Cabbages is onthe wane. 

 * * * * *

The thing to do in organizing a floral association is--to paraphraseHorace Greeley's famous advice as to the resumption of speciepayment--to organize! In other words, to get right down to business andgive the proposed society a start by bringing flower-loving peopletogether, and beginning to work without wasting time on unnecessarydetails. If you make use of much "red tape" you will kill theundertaking at the outset. Simply form your society and appoint yourcommittees, and you will find that the various matters which perplex youwhen looked at in the whole will readily adjust themselves to theconditions that arise as the society goes on with its work. Put theoriesaside, and _do something_, and you will find very little difficulty inmaking your society successful if you can secure a dozen reallyinterested persons as members. I would be glad to know that such asociety existed in every community. 

 * * * * *

I would advise my readers never to have anything to do withplant-peddlers. Of course it is _possible_ for the man who goes aboutthe country with plants for sale to be as honest as any other man, butwe see so few indications of the possession of honest principles by themajority of these men that we have come to consider them allunreliable, and, as a matter of protection, we have to refuse topatronize any of them at the risk of doing injustice to those who may bestrictly reliable. They will sell you Roses that have a differentcolored flower each month throughout the season, blue Roses, Resurrection Plants that come to life at a snap of the finger, and areequally valuable for decorative purposes and for keeping moths out ofclothing, and numerous other things rare, wonderful, and all highpriced, every one of which can be classed among the humbugs. Patronizedealers in whom you are justified in having confidence because of awell-established reputation for fair dealing. 

 * * * * *

The Hollyhock is often attacked by what is called "rust. " The leavesbecome brown, and dry at the edges, and the entire plant has a look muchlike that of a nail which has been for some time in water, hence thepopular name of the disease. This "rust" is really a fungoid trouble, and unless it is promptly checked it will soon spread to other plants. If it appears on several plants at the same time, I would advise cuttingthem, and burning every branch and stalk. If but one plant is attacked, I would spray it with Bordeaux Mixture, which can now be obtained inpaste form from most florists. This is the only dependable remedy I knowof for the fungus ills that plants are heir to. Asparagus is often sobadly affected with it, of late years, that many growers have beenobliged to mow down their plants and burn their tops in midsummer, intheir efforts to save their stock. Never leave any of the cut-offportions of a plant on the ground, thinking that cutting down is allthat is necessary. The fungus spores will survive the winter, and beready for work in spring. Burn everything. 

 * * * * *

A house whose foundation walls are left fully exposed always has anunfinished look. But if we hide them by shrubs and flowering plants theplace takes on a look of completion, and the effect is so pleasing thatwe wonder why any house should be left with bare walls. The plants aboutit seem to unite it with the grounds in such a manner that it becomes apart of them. But the house whose walls are without the grace of "greenthings growing, " always suggest that verse in the Good Book which tellsof "being _in_ the world, but not _of_ it. "

I would always surround the dwelling with shrubs and perennials, and useannuals and bulbs between them and the paths that run around the house. 

 * * * * *

On the north side of a dwelling large-growing Ferns can be planted withfine effect. These should be gathered in spring, and a good deal ofnative soil should be brought with them from the woods. They will notamount to much the first year, but they will afford you a great deal ofpleasure thereafter. Use in front of them such shade-loving plants asLily of the Valley and Myosotis. 

 * * * * *

Nowadays "tropical effects" are greatly admired. We have but few plantsthat adapt themselves to this phase of gardening. Canna, Caladium, Ricinus, Coleus, "Golden Feather" Pyrethrum and the gray Centaurea coverpretty nearly the entire list. But by varying the combinations that canbe made with them the amateur can produce many new and pleasing effects, thus avoiding the monotony which results from simply copying the bedsthat we see year after year in the public parks, from whose likeness toeach other we get the impression that no other combination can be made. Study out new arrangements for yourself. Plant them, group them, usethem as backgrounds for flowering plants, mass them in open spaces inthe border. Do not get the idea that they must always be used bythemselves. Cannas, because of the great variety of color in theirfoliage, can be made attractive when used alone, but the others dependupon combination with other plants for the contrast which brings out andemphasizes their attractive features. 

 * * * * *

Speaking of new arrangements reminds me to say that the amateur gardenerought always to plan for original effects if he or she would get out ofgardening all the pleasure there is in it. It may seem almost necessaryfor the _beginner_ to copy the ideas of others in the arrangement of thegarden, to a considerable extent, but he should not get into the slavishhabit of doing so. Hazlitt says: "Originality implies independence ofopinion. It consists in seeing for one's self. " That's it, exactly. Study your plants. Find out their possibilities. And then planarrangements of your own for next season. Have an opinion of your own, and be independent enough to attempt its carrying out. Don't be afraidof yourself. Originate! Originate! Originate!

 * * * * *

When you invest your money in a fine plant you do it for the pleasure ofyourself and family. When a neighbor comes along and admires it, andasks you to divide it with her, don't let yourself be frightened intodoing so from regard of what she may say or think if you refuse. Tellher where she can get a plant like it, but don't spoil your own plantfor anybody. 

I am well aware that advice of this kind may seem selfish, but it isnot. There's no good reason why my neighbor should not get his plants inthe same way I got mine. I buy with the idea of beautifying my home withthem, and this I cannot do so long as I yield to everybody's request fora slip or a root. 

I have in mind a woman who, some years ago, invested in a rare varietyof Peony. When her plant came into bloom her friends admired it so muchthat they all declared they must have a "toe" of it. The poor womanhated terribly to disturb her plant, for she was quite sure what theresult would be, having had considerable experience with Peonies, butshe lacked the courage to say no, and the consequence was that she gavea root to the first applicant, and that made it impossible for her torefuse the second one and those who came after, and from that time tothis she has kept giving away "toes, " and her plant is a poor littlething to-day, not much larger than when it was first planted, whileplants grown from it are large and fine. She wouldn't mind it so much ifher friends were willing to divide _their_ plants with _their_ friends, but they will not do this "for fear of spoiling them. " Instead, theysend their friends to her. This is a fact, and I presume it can beduplicated in almost every neighborhood. 

 * * * * *

The flower-loving person is, as a general thing, a very generous person, and he takes delight in dividing his plants with others when he can doso without injuring them. He is glad to do this because of his love forflowers, and the pleasure it affords him to get others interested inthem and their culture. But there is such a thing as being overgenerous. Our motto should be, "Home's garden first, my neighbor's gardenafterward. "

It is generally thoughtlessness which prompts people to ask us to divideour choice plants with them. If we were to be frank with them, and tellthem why we do not care to do this, they would readily understand thesituation, and, instead of blaming us for our refusal, they would blamethemselves for having been so thoughtlessly selfish as to have made therequest. 

 * * * * *

The question is often asked:

"Why can't we save our own flower-seeds? Aren't the plants we grow justas healthy as those of the seedsmen we patronize year after year? Oughtnot the seed from them to be just as good as that we buy?"

Just as good, no doubt, in one sense, and _not_ as good, in another. Wegrow our plants for their flowers. The seedsmen grow theirs for theirseed, and in order to secure the very best article they give theirplants care and culture that ours are not likely to get. Their methodsare calculated to result in constant improvement. Ours tend in the otherdirection. The person who grows plants year after year from home-grownseed will almost invariably tell you that her plants "seem to be runningout. "

The remedy for this state of things is to get fresh seed, each year, from the men who understand how to grow it to perfection. 

 * * * * *

One ought always to keep his shrubs and choice plants labelled so thatno mistake can be made as to variety. We may be on speaking terms withthe whole Smith family, but we never feel really acquainted with themuntil we know which is John, or Susan, or William. It ought to be so inour friendship with our plants. Who that loves Roses would be content tospeak of La France, and Madame Plantier, and Captain Christy simply asRoses? We must be on such intimate terms with them that each one has apersonality of its own for us. _Then_ we know them, and not _till_ then. 

 * * * * *

The best label to make use of is a zinc one, because it is almosteverlasting, while a wooden one is short lived, and whatever is writtenon it soon becomes indistinct. 

 * * * * *

In attaching any label to a plant, be careful not to twist the wire withwhich you attach it so tightly that it will cut into the branch. As thebranch grows the wire will shut off the circulation of the plant'slife-blood through that branch, and the result will be disastrous tothat portion of the plant. 

 * * * * *

Different varieties of perennials ought to be kept track of quite asmuch as in the case of shrubs. As the old stalks die away and are cutoff each season, there is no part of the plant to which a label can beattached with any permanence. There are iron sockets on the market intowhich the piece of wood bearing the name of the variety can be inserted. An all-wool label would speedily decay in contact with the soil. 

 * * * * *

Sometimes we get very amusing letters from parties "in search ofinformation. " Not long ago a woman sent me a leaf from her Boston Fern, calling my attention to the "bugs" on the lower side of it, and askinghow she could get rid of them. How did I suppose they contrived toarrange themselves with such regularity? A little careful investigationwould have shown her that the rows of "bugs" were seed-spores. Ifanything about your plants puzzles you, use your eyes and yourintelligence, and endeavor to find out the "whys and wherefores" foryourself. You will enjoy doing this when you once get into the habit ofit. Information that comes to us through our own efforts is alwaysappreciated much more than that which comes to us second-hand. Make apractice of personal investigation in order to get at a solution of theproblems that will constantly confront you in gardening operations. 

 * * * * *

In answer to another correspondent who asked me to recommend somethoroughly reliable fertilizer, I advised "old cow-manure. " Back came aletter, saying I had neglected to state _how old_ the cow ought to be!

 * * * * *

But the funny things are not all said by our correspondents. I latelycame across an article credited to a leading English gardening magazinein which the statement was made that a certain kind of weed closelyresembling the Onion often located itself in the Onion-bed in order toescape the vigilance of the weed-puller, its instinct telling it thatits resemblance to the Onion would deceive the gardener! Is anyonefoolish enough to believe that the weed knew just where to locateitself, and had the ability to put itself there? One can but laugh atsuch "scientific statements, " and yet it seems too bad to have peoplehumbugged so. 

 * * * * *

A woman writes: "I don't care very much about plants. I never did. Butalmost everybody grows them, nowadays, and I'd like to have a few for myparlor, so as to be in style. You know the old saying that 'one might aswell be out of the world as out of fashion. ' I wish you'd tell me whatto get, and how to take care of it. I want something that will justabout take care of itself. I don't want anything I'll have to botherwith. "

My advice to this correspondent was, "Don't try to grow plants. "

The fact is, the person who doesn't grow them _out of love for them_will never succeed with them, therefore it would be well for suchpersons not to attempt their culture. This for the plant's sake, as wellas their own. Plants call for something. Plants ask for something morethan a regular supply of food and water. They must have thatsympathy, --that friendship--which enables one to understand them andtheir needs, and treat them accordingly. This knowledge will comethrough intuition and from keen, intelligent observation, such as only areal plant-lover will be likely to give. Those who grow plants--or_attempt_ to grow them--simply because their neighbors do so will neverbring to their cultivation that careful, conscientious attention whichalone can result in success. The idea of growing a flower because "it isthe fashion to do so!"

 * * * * *

It may seem to some who read what I have said above that I do notencourage the cultivation of flowers by the masses. That's a wrongconclusion to jump at. I would like to have everybody the owner of aflower-garden. Those who have never attempted the culture of flowers arevery likely to develop a love for them of whose existence, of thepossibility of which, they had never dreamed. A dormant feeling iskindled into activity by our contact with them. But these persons mustbegin from a better motive than a desire to have them simply because itis "the style. " The desire to succeed with them _because you like them_will insure success. Those who would have flowers because _it is thefashion_ to have them may experience a sort of _satisfaction_ in thepossession of them, but this is a feeling utterly unlike the pleasureknown to those who grow flowers _because they love them_. 

 * * * * *

I am not a believer in the "knack" of flower-growing in the sense thatsome are born with a special ability in that line, or, as some wouldsay, with a "_gift_" that way. We often hear it said, "Flowers will growfor her if she just _looks_ at them. " This is a wrong conclusion toarrive at in the cases of those who are successful with them. They dosomething more than simply "look" at their plants. They take intelligentcare of them. Some may acquire this ability easier and sooner thanothers, but it is a "knack" that anyone may attain to who is willing tokeep his eyes open, and reason from cause to effect. Don't get the ideathat success at plant-growing comes without observation, thought, andwork. All the "knack" you need to have is a liking for flowers, and adesire to understand how you can best meet their special requirements. 

In other words, the _will_ to succeed will find out the _way_ to thatresult. 

 * * * * *

Just now, while I am at work on the last pages of this book, comes aninquiry, which I answer here because the subject of it is one of generalinterest: "Every spring our Crimson Rambler Roses are infested withthousands of green plant-lice. The new shoots will be literally coveredwith them. And in fall the stalks of our Rudbeckia are as thicklycovered with a _red_ aphis, which makes it impossible for us to use itfor cut-flower work. Is there a remedy for these troubles?"

Yes. Nicoticide will rid the plants of their enemies if appliedthoroughly, and persistently. One application may not accomplish thedesired result, because of failure to reach all portions of the plantwith it, but a second or a third application will do the work. 

 * * * * *

By way of conclusion I want to urge women with "nerves" to take thegardening treatment. Many housewives are martyrs to a prison-life. Theyare shut up in the house from year's end to year's end, away frompleasant sights, sounds, fresh air, and sunshine. If we can get such awoman into the garden for a half-hour each day, throughout the summer, we can make a new woman of her. Work among flowers, where the air ispure and sweet, and sunshine is a tonic, and companionship is cheerful, will lift her out of her work and worry, and body and mind will growstronger, and new life, new health, new energy will come to her, and thecares and vexations that made life a burden, because of the nervousstrain resulting from them, will "take wings and fly away. " Garden-workis the best possible kind of medicine for overtaxed nerves. It makesworn-out women over into healthy, happy women. "I thank God, every day, for my garden, " one of these women wrote me, not long ago. "It has givenme back my health. It has made me feel that life _is_ worth living, after all. I believe that I shall get so that I live in my garden mostof the time. By that I mean that I shall be thinking about it andenjoying it, either in recollection or anticipation, when it isimpossible for me to be actually in it. My mind will be there in winter, and I will be there in summer. Why--do you know, I did a good deal morehousework last year than ever before, and I did it in order to find timeto work among my flowers. Work in the garden made housework easier. Thank God for flowers, I say!"

Yes--God be thanked for flowers!

 * * * * *

 +-------------------------------------------------------------+ | _Gardening Books | | By Eben E. Rexford_ | | | | The Home Garden | | | | A practical book for the use of those who own | | a small garden in which they would like to grow | | vegetables and small fruits. | | | | _Eight full-page illustrations. 12mo. 198 pages, | | cloth, ornamental, $1. 25 net. _ | | | | Four Seasons in the Garden | | | | This book treats of all phases of the subject, | | from the simple bed or two along the fence in a | | city back yard, to the most pretentious garden of | | the suburban or country dweller. | | | | _Twenty-six illustrations in tint, colored frontispiece, | | decorated title page and lining papers. | | Crown 8vo. Cloth, $1. 50 net. _ | | | | Indoor Gardening | | | | The information that is given in this book | | was gained by the writer through personal work | | among flowers, and the methods described have | | all been successfully tried by him. | | | | _Colored frontispiece and 32 illustrations. Decorated | | title page and lining papers. Crown 8vo. | | Ornamental cloth, $1. 50 net. _ | | | | Amateur Gardencraft | | | | A book for the home-maker and garden lover. | | | | _Colored frontispiece, 33 illustrations in tint, decorated| | title page and lining papers. Crown | | 8vo. Ornamental cloth, $1. 50 net. _ | | | | _J. B. Lippincott Company_ | | | | _Publishers_ _Philadelphia_ | | | +-------------------------------------------------------------+