[Illustration: Joannes Evelyn Arm^r]

_ACETARIA_

A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS

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By _JOHN EVELYN, Esq. _

Author of the _Kalendarium_

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_BROOKLYN_, Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_, BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN

1937

_Printed in the United States of America_

_Publisher's Note_

This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, andthose noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempthas been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirithas been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation havebeen carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained. Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly;and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of aman of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies ofa more recent generation. 

_Foreword to Acetaria_

John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary, " was a friend and contemporary ofSamuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minoroffices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling andredolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the recordof a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture andarchitecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life. Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county. " He represents thecombination of public servant and country gentleman which has been thesupreme achievement of English culture. 

Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I mustobserve that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was acourse of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence. "

Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbonswas brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke ofNorfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to theUniversity of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable andcivic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets andbuildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the DutchWar and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, heremained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active inorganizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary. 

In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developinghis own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books, one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener;instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees. " Evelynundoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices dela Campagne_. " Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons, consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was thisbook which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book suchas Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The CompleatGardener. " His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written asa protest against the destruction of trees in England being carriedon by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeededin inducing landowners to plant millions of trees. 

The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subjectmatter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek, political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or theinconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated, " in which hesuggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the airof London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History ofChalcography and Engraving in Copper. "

Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyngrew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the firstadvocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparingfoods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophiccomments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in thelittle book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninthedition of the "Kalendarium Hortense, " a gardener's almanac. 

The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with theidea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for thatambitious work. 

The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practicalfor today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs arecultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes, "salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikinsand the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularlygood. 

The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. Italso shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reignof Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit ofscientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook toprepare new dishes. 

Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, itis not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and witha leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horsetrotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As weread, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to thefamily assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Oragain we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidyrows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn. 

_Helen M. Fox_

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[Illustration: _Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition_]

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_To the Right Honourable_

_JOHN_

Lord Somers

_of Evesham_

Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England, and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_. 

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_My Lord_, The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'dand delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Officeyour Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, butyour Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) bythe Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_:As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon YourLordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor, yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generouslyhonoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made. 

A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honouredthe _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resignsit to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardshipsthe _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour andProtection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation fromthe Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_, and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitiousInfluence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeedhas hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears ofa ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining andDiscouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which, that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least. 

This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permitme to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Personliving: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and(next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as HumaneNature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empirebeyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, OccultQualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperousand Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men fromadventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazyAcquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations, which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid anduseful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies, Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improvethem for the Good and Benefit of Mankind. 

_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entireFreedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable tosubsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its_Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_, and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the_Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But_Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that asGreat a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_(one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_;there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, orbeyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry. 

Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and setapart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions andImpostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True, and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_, wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made somany _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her_Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would leadMen to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_. 

And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, tousher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in afine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of_Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicableas it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the GreatestPrinces have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their_Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in themidst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of_Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_. 

To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _RuralEmployments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other SecularBusiness, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age hasproduc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; Thatafter they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, theysometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were_Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidstthe most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted alltheir Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor thatof the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the_Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_, and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of_Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their_Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd, as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor. 

But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship:Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside theirGrandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitelyprejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm)But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, andnever thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity andVeneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held. 

Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger_Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallelwith the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under theWorthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vastAbilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded histime, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, andby his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. TheAncient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day forthe _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the_Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_;but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man amongthe Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _PomponiusAtticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out hisMoney more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweetRetirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of theGreatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, andwater them with his own Hands. 

But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, isindeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them thatwhich was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knowswho it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation ofthis kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for thisPresumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never writeso much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides thegratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art. 

Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _SuppliciaLuxuriæ_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; thatwere it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether totheir Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who areeager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after alltheir Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either:For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self, (when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a verymoderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, andthat truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion)_Lasciva pagina, vita proba. _ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'din Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice Icensure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arteconsenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annextto these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, wouldacquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. WhatI humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_, the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the mostillustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as itconcerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd tohave taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the_Royal Society_. 

But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me thatHonor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its mostPrecious Moments. 

I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeedneeded I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which isalready shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_)after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, whenit was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honorto be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of theirAddresses, who am, _My Lord, Your Lordship's Most Humble and Most Obedient Servant, JOHN EVELYN_. 

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THE PREFACE

The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found, encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I_could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the bestImprovement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regardsa Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love aDiversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who havearrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'dGardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothingwanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from theField; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertileStore: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have afterall, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and asyet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require theRevolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man toEmerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boastthemselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and farextended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is theVariety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of allthe Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch, _and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended(_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished fromthat Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens, _highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, andDeepest_ Philosopher. 

_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, couldI find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle, Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, hadever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ VulgarWeed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd foranother State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Timeshall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd. 

_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder, that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty, _in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, toso enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet becomprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within theSquare of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficientto furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, witha most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justlywonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Manbegan to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate ofthat Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines(without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinaryExpence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as itought to be_. 

_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Gloriousand Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all thatshould, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thingelse to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Buildingtoo late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon theFoundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There oughttherefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_(_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole(according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means andCourage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part_at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, and Consummate Work indeed_. 

_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are bothcapable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_(_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cunctame dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiæ contineret, sed plurima; namillud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ullaDisciplina aut Ars, quæ singulari consummata sit ingenio. 

_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have donemy Endeavour_. 

 . . . Jurtilis olim Ne Videar vixisse. 

_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean, concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd, as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the FabrickI mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and aSimple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only(and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothingseems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst theProduct of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, thanheretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit)_I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S. 

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_THE_

 PLAN

_OF A_

_ROYAL GARDEN:_

Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of_Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_. 

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In Three Books

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_BOOK I_. 

_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general. 

_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water;Earth_. 

_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the_Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_. 

_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_. 

_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden. 

_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden. 

_BOOK II_. 

_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_, and _Sorts_. 

_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and_rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and_Assistants_. 

_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various_Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers. 

_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners. 

_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of theGround; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c. _

_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees, Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c. _

_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and_Embossments_. 

_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other_Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_. 

_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas, Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_. 

_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptæ, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts, Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments. 

_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials, Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments. 

_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's, Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_. 

_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c. _

_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_. 

_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, andConservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them. 

_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, howthey are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner_is_ to keep his _Register_. 

_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden. 

_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_. 

_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees, Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden ofPleasure. 

_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_. 

_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of_Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_. 

_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing, Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c. _

_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens areobnoxious, together with _Remedies_. 

_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_, directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ arein prime. 

_BOOK III_. 

_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying, Transmuting_, and Altering the

_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants, Fruits_ and _Flowers_. 

_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and_extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_, Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Accountof their _Virtues_. 

_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of_Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preservingthem in their _Beauty_. 

_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk, Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers, Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and otherArtificial Representations of them. 

_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa, Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_. 

_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_. 

_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and_Books_ assistant to it. 

_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and_Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shewthe _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use ofGardens. 

_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_. 

_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World, _Ancient_ and _Modern_. 

_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_. 

_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_. 

 ----_Laudato ingentia rura_, _Exiguum colito_. ----

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[Illustration]

ACETARIA:

A Discourse of Sallets

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Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs, improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as otherssay, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of severalkinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and_per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. TheBoil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodatedby the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more femininePalat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c. _ challenge not the name of_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore, Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguishthe [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, whichwere never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehendingthe _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan]_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, wassufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Othersagain will have it, _ab Olendo_, i. E. _Crescendo_, from its continual_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But hisFather _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to allthe _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may betaken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_, as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the[7]Creation. 

A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concernsthe business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particularComposition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are, or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. Togive them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek:psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which theLearned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] requireto render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ andsome others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_, or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, andother Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were alwaysin use, _&c. _ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_, to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affordsa _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. Which doubtless gives it both the Relishand Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But ofthis enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to theIngredients, which we will call

Furniture _and_ Materials

The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_, consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, thanwould suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a briefenumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture wehave treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _GenialBed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereaftergiven. 

1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of thenature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty, Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle freshSprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in theSpring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper, Salt_, &c. By themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent_Vernal_ Pottage. 

2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads beingslit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_, and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says, at the end of Meals. 

They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellentRestorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other richIngredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the ScalyLeaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Careextraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; thathazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_. 

The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd. The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in freshmelted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c. _ Or if more than one, ina larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_. 

They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paperbeing put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching oneanother, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_. 

'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_, Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, thatthey were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearlyspent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia SenaMillia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_. 

_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, withsharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ andtender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c. )as the _French_ term is. 

3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not toostrong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Topsto be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_. 

4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating, sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasingaway _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with otherHerbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks, during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noblePlant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers. 

5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_)being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especiallyof the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self agrateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl, Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturallysomewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and otherssince, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being sovulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is nodespicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which isthe most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thinSlices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd intocurious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_. 

_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wivescall it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, muchus'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersiveNature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough. 

7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist, purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour:The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition;but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of knownVertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See_Bugloss_. 

8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalentin the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_. 

9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet somethingmore astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatlyrestorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: Butindeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, butrather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_. 

Burnet, See _Pimpinella_. 

10. Buds, _Gemmæ, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_, esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, oreaten by themselves. 

11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish, so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'dby the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice;yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_, according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, exceptingby the _Dutch_. The _Cymæ_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are verydelicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. Inraising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comesfrom _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (ancientlyunknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la largeCosté_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe themagain in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenæus_rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thoughtto allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have themnoxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: Butwhilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms thecontrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, forthe moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach, and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration weread the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing, _per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in_England_. 

12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_. 

13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry, Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd inGround naturally rich, but not too heavy. 

14. Chervile, _Chærophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _SpanishChervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimæ_, and Tops, withother Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as theymay be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons:This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone fordivers Sauces. 

 Cibbols. \ Cives. / Vide Onions, _Schoenopræsson_. 

15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_, made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_, Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_. 

16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_, are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages. 

17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Topsand Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with otherSalleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ callthem _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_. 

18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_. 

19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: Butabove all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken thetorpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect againstthe _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_, and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_, proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees, and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little. 

20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpenthe Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c. _ if rightly prepar'd; thatis, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice, in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_, too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste froma contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut inthin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Othersprepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress themwith very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (andindeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retainingtheir Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothingremaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth isgreatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without theleast damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, beingaccounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that inthe _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it araw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd inWhite-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriatedwith the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter. 

21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Springtill _June_. 

22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters, to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, andlittle inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-Peopleeat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_. 

23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho'otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_, are excellent for the _Scorbute_. 

Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude byRustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing. 

24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful bothto the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho'the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the mostsovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellentlywholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_. 

25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, andtenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructionsof the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or inComposition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent beingboil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, andthe ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_. 

Eschalot. See _Onions_. 

26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain;especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to bepeel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts andLeaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_, and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly intoComposition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, whichsometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_. 

27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ andPlants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alonein their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_, sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'din _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some ofthem are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c. 

28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, withalmost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to helpConception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (bywhich it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yetthink it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst weabsolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of itsintolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that theeating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as hadcommitted the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on theDish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler_Roccombo_. 

_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming itsfierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_. 

Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_. 

29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast, and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_. 

30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eatenraw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: Theyare _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions. 

31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, Mary-gold_, &c. As all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalentagainst Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Namesof _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, thanthe tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, areby some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients;communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy. 

32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many MedicinalProperties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by CountryPeople, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges. 

33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eatthem much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly tothe Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slenderand green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See_Onion_. 

34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_, (to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason ofits _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principalFoundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool andRefresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteemwith the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd andenobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_. 

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yetless astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw inFevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excitesAppetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliatesSleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, _Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was)from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds themost laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancientscalled _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sicknessto them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ tothis noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in otherDainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd tosay of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_. How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tellshimself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, andconcluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. Ina word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsometo be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. Which last does notso perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reportedto have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixtureof _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that ourGarden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedinglyIndustrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_;for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting allthe Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf, Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed ofthe best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, thatbesides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd upto the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (andindeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'dfrom all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, andtaking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totallyto be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of. 

35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet orbitter. See _Orange_. 

36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken bythe Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvæ foliumSanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table:The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvæ salubres corpori_, approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_, by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_, that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; butby reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_, tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with_Butter_. 

Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See_Blitum_. 

37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho'an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacyand flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, andwell-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with thenoblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, thinkour _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yetunder the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially theywere Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours. 

There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedinglyCooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where theydrink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after alldispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some beenaccus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eatenin excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly asharmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, witha little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ tocommend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarelycultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo. Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripeFruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and arevery delicate. 

38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry andwarm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little_Sugar_. 

39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terræ_, by _PorphyryDeorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French, Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. For being, assome hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eatencrude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I toorder the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as thevery principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerableonly (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generallyreported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor withoutcause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funestAccidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but wholeFamilies: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _CæsarianTables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Brôma theôn], a Dainty fit forthe _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as theyhave many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annæus Serenus_, andseveral other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at thesame Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking ofthis suspicious Dainty) _Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and whoindeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all hisLife after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution, [Greek: Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenæus_reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her threeChildren strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficientwarning. 

Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge wesend for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_, and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl, and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, anddoubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How theserank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselvesinsipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down. But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incouragenone to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at allconcern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; andreferr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr. _Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring andcorrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately indeliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and lesspernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich, airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ ofabout an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) roundand firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiatedin parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, orBlack, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in theirWine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tellsus, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd andcompacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkleit with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat isin Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Paringsand Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or threeYears, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides otherExperiments. 

40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in theSeed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect toquicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expellingheaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aidsConcoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis themost noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, withthe Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter. 

_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_. 

41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies theBlood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by someeaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with otherHerbs. 

42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'deight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we ownthem in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cutPhlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said tooffend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputableonly to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which somecommend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd inPottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. Concerns the Kitchin. In our cold_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ ortwo of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbingthe Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ theyfrequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ onlyseason'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man, with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contentedMeal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that aswhole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ wereready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them. Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, asa _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (whichsome will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we sohighly magnify them. 

43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being setover the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water thantheir own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tenderLeaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better inPottage. See _Blitum_. 

44. Orange, _Arantiæ_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling, and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resistsPutrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute, cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct theAcrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, whichimpart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon. 

45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of itself a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. And havingsomething of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the_Turnep_. 

46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginningto appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_, enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_. 

47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'dVertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmaticConstitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore forbeing of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and suchas abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our_Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it)to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequentlyadheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead ofpromoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires theBlood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only. 

_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the_Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usualCondiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so muchmore of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art andMixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeablein our _Sallet_. 

Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are becomesufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortarto dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermentedwith a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cutlong-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce itthrough a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar_Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar veryclean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thingin it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_, dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do_Myrtle-berries_. 

48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry, opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than_Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decoctedon a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet beadmitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table atall, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, therebeing nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_, we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtfulto the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_. 

49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, isour common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and sogenerally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tispass'd into a Proverb:

 _L'Insalata non è buon, ne bella_ _Ove non è la Pimpinella_. 

But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuineElement. 

50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, nextthe Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist andcooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitablefor hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generallyentertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tislikewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but withmoderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, afterit has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, forNourishment. 

The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peepingLeaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even duringwinter, if it prove not too severe. 

_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too mucheaten. 

51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendablyaccompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots)are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the[39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a verygrateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients:The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These areeaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; andwere indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Rootswhatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus exauro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, thathe wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I amsure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _CibusIlliberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed(besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as thePrince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ tothe Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho'otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, whenthe _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latterfor after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render themmore _Nourishing_. 

There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_, of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable_Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that accountan excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are alsothe thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I havedone with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take_Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid tosteep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which hasno bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish ofEarthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the_Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides. 

52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Rootseaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing. 

53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with_Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_. 

Roccombo. See _Onions_. 

54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_, _Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf withour _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are alwayswelcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of_Wine_. See _Flowers_. 

55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'dand wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almostimperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the nobleProperties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_, _Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tisa Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that theassiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannottherefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; butprincipally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not todomineer. 

Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_. 

56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about_Dover_, &c. ) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young andtender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_, almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and otherexcellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing thePassages, sharpning Appetite, &c. So far preferrable to most of ourhotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in_France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which haveprosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our ownCoasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tenderStalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_, it has nothing like it. 

57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepæ_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_, which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotesConcoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them coldwith _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c. 

58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially thatof the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_, prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admittedin our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_. 

59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family)was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) isan hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_. The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, aslikewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'din the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and_Prætors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to begiven of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does thegreen in _Fennil_. 

Shallots. See _Onion_. 

60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for theStomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the_Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor_Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute. 

This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, isvery acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretoforesomething bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!

61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _FrenchAcetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. But the bestis of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpningAppetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; isan _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so gratefula quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_, and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide_Wood-Sorrel_. 

62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'dto eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco. _Ambassador and his Retinue. 

63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist;_Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothingmore nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. Theyare sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; butwith more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedilyboil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which isdone by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteemthe _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness ofthe Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size. 

64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftnerkept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a_Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a mostexcellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almostall sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis_Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and(tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, andin all places. 

Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_. 

65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrowdark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only;and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and_Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to theStomach than the Palate. See _Endive_. 

66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of itsdomineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and muchfitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified withthe Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_, _Primrose-Leaves_, &c. At entrance of the Spring, and then friedbrownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as oneof the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes. 

67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: TheTops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded ourComposition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highlycordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weaknessof the Ventricle, _&c. _

68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariæ_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_, being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd orraw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_;some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the_Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; bothNourishing and Restorative. 

69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender, dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_. 

70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of whichwere suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow ispreferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, beingsown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they doexcellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common_Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud. 

And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeablesort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eatenat the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the bestof _Wheat_. 

Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft andtender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, andwhen dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting theDough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, andbake it like common Bread. 

Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with_Sugar_ and _Butter_. 

71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (likethose of the _Hop_, &c. ) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_, which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_. 

72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. Tho'Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_, _Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. Are besides a very sweetand pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, thenpeel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with_Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. As _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. Sliced orwhole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Rootthere is hardly growing. 

73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature ofother _Sorrels_. 

To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_, since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest_Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not toeat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than anhundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste. 

The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days, that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; howeverit was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root. 

The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the_Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and_Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_;which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broathsas a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of_Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant_Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonæus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, diversof the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd inMilk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the_Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whateverit is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To theseadd the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. Nay, the _Green Poppy_, by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our_Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happento be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eatenin other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robustand strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in theNames of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among theLearned in _Botany_. 

There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ herewith us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large_Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew itsgolden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for adainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with theripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, thatit did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with theiryoung Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender, begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eatenby the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which_Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and_Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of greatvertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of sucheffect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time, us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_(common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_, and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd, and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in_Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, butthese may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, soothers be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greaterPlenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than_Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted. 

To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_, formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); Whatif the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, andchallenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd, and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it wasdedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we readof one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinaryPresent; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long beforeamass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _JuliusCæsar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: Ina word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the_Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it onthe Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing forits worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb:_Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which itonly grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_, whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser ityields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true andgenuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, anda spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristineReputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary;since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater ofthe Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c. _and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat. 

But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer_Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar_Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardlybelieve it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficientlydescrib'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out ofControversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and_Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ asnauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others, assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce theirViands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their_Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some ofour own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, withthe Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd therichness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substitutedinstead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature. 

And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold_Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of_Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understoodaccording to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) ithas not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction ofthe _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together. 

What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of_Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because, say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experienceshews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took thedeadly _Cicutæ_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. For Garden _Persley_, and_Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_, (_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_;_Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, andhorn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _PalustralApium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times suddenDeath, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of themunwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants shouldnot prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of themannoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_, offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, anddiscover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. Andtherefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and_Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of otherCountries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as arewholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer;to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that hadsometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannottherefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_[48](_Transact. Num. _ 238. ) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, thatall Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs andPlants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_(a little chang'd)

 _Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_, _Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_. 

The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what[50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of thePlants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether itmight be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_:Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice shouldtherefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to theLeaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, asnot easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passingfor accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very illeffects. 

_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses howmuch better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again, as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: WhilstMen, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek. And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by theirSmell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessidesthe _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_, and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter. We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by[51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there'sneed of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning theVertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _EdulePlants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any otherquality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skilland Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients, so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed)_Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect theseRefreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should besuffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, Savour, or Vertue. To this end, The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguishThirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c. _

The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may bequalify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the_Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such asrepress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;)with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile themore harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative andDeobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that areEupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breastand Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be moreor less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'din our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general, that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be themost soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of thisNation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the_Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, andpowerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it wereenough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, andproportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there arecontain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightlymarshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_)

 _If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_ _Of Temperance and Innocence, _ _And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind, _ _Diseases passage find;_ _They must not think here to assail_ _A Land unarm'd, or without Guard, _ _They must fight for it, and dispute it hard, _ _Before they can prevail;_ _Scarce any Plant is used here, _ _Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_. 

We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_, every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'dby some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: Andtho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest)striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcileall Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus theComical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pôsesin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The verysame (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ haveone to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great carerequir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring andrepugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who shouldbe no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting, as _Athenæus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn. Lib. _ I. _cap. _ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:

 _What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_ _What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_ _Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_ _Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_. 

As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ forher _Angelical_ Guest. 

Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c. ) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the_Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the_Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it noRelish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_;too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all whichit appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent_Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd_Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He shouldbe skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned[56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious. 

'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all theirTastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist ofdifferent Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require theydifferent Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force andactivity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ ofsome _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _è contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, _Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without_Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again_Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek:skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be takenby the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; andthat as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_)of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ callsthem) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimesfind in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, _Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands. 

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredientsbe exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be ratherdiscreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially_Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficientlyprotected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let themremain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture:And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; andso they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_following. 

II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_)be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather ofa pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in itsstead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no meansto be allow'd. 

III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectlyclear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated withthe Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, _Nasturtium_, &c. Inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant. 

A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and putinto a small Vessel to ferment. 

IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so greata resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimesmerited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderatelydried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, asof _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming withoutheating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty;provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of_Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful_Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to bemost esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have beenso nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as theyaffect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevèe_ in lieu ofour vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and_Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_, _Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, andall the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say nomore of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeedthere be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, howeverdifferent in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_, unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_, gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to beprepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd)whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tisthought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better thanour _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the bestordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess. 

Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in_Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yetlight and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_, That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to theConstitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The onefor cold, the other for hot stomachs. 

V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best_Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _YorkshireSeed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little(not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence ofa Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have beensteep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen_Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preservethe Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, totemper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by someesteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _IndianNasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other_Mustard_ should be. 

_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with apolish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is mostpreferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only. 

VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd totoo small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And herelet me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _BurnetSaxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other_Peppers_, and more wholsom. 

Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admittedto inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_, _Juniper-berries_, &c. As of singular Vertue. 

Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling itwith a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, andsprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling itsgolden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so aptto prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we littleincourage its admittance into our _Sallet_. 

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_, boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_, _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with theHerbs. 

VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_, with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_, &c. ) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ areapt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of. 

IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes)be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deepnor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients;_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That thereought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which theyare to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continuallystirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who arehusbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more aptto communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingledand beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tisincredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like thegilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assemblyof _Sallet-Herbs_. 

The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, andneatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions. 

Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_, _Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the severalSeasons you have in the following Table. 

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them?we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's PrincipalGard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _ThirtyFive_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leavingout, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, underthese three or four Heads. 

But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, andtherefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, eachcontaining and lasting Three Months. 

_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is nomore than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two nextFingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful. 

 * * * * *

[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from theiroriginal layout. The left-most columns are converted to "sectionheaders", the column headers have been reproduced above each of thesenew sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visuallyindicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide. ]

 ========================================================================= Species. Ordering and Culture. ========================================================================= / 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch. | 2. _Cichory_, \ | 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, | Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, / | | 6. _Roman_ \ \ Tied-up to Blanch. | 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce, _ | | 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up. \ 9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves. 

 / 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, \ | 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size. | 12. _Purslane_, / | XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, \ Seed-Leaves, | 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them. | Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, \ The fine young Leaves only, Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots. | | 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves. | 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those | only next them. | 19. _Turnip_, \ | 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only. | 21. _Scurvy-grass_, / | | 22. _Chervil_, \ The young Leaves | 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after | 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings. | 25. _Persly_, / | | 26. _Tarragon_, \ The tender Shoots | 27. _Mints_, / and Tops. | | 28. _Sampier_, \ | 29. _Balm_, | The young tender | 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots. | | 31. _Shalots_, \ | 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves. | | 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers. | | 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade \ The Seed-Leaves \ 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops. =========================================================================

 ========================================================================= Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture. 

 / _Rampions_, / 10 \ Blanch'd | _Endive_, | 2 | as before | _Succory_, | 5 | Roots in Number. | _Fennel_, Sweet. | 10 | \ _Sellery_, \ 4 /

 / _Lamb-Lettuce_, \ | _Lob-Lettuce_, / A pugil of each. | | _Radish_, \ | _Cresses_, / Three parts each. | | _Turneps_, \ | _Mustard_, Seedlings, / Of each One part. | _Scurvy-grass_, | _Spinach_, Two parts. | _Sorrel_, Greenland, \ Green and | _Sorrel_, French | Unblanch'd | _Chervil_, sweet, | One part of each. | _Burnet_, | | _Rocket_, / | Twenty large Leaves. | _Tarragon_, | _Balm_, \ | _Mint_, / One small part of each. | _Sampier_, | _Shalots_, \ | _Cives_, / Very few | | _Cabbage_, Winter. Two pugils or \ small handfuls. 

 ========================================================================= Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture. 

 / _Lop_, \ \ Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil. \ _Roman_, Winter, / /

 / _Radishes_, Three parts. Green Herbs | _Cresses_, Two parts. Unblanch'd. | _Purselan_, 1 Fasciat, | or pretty full gripe | _Sorrel_, French, Two parts. Note, _That | _Sampier_, One part. The young | _Onions_, young. Six parts. Seedling | _Sage_-tops, _ the Red, Two parts. Leaves of | Orange and | _Persley_, \ Lemon may | _Cresses_, the Indian, | all these | _Lettuce_, Belgrade, | Of each One part. Months be | _Trip-Madame_, | mingled with | _Chervil_, sweet / the Sallet. _ | \ _Burnet_, Two parts. 

 ========================================================================= Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture. 

 Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_. _and may be | eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts. Themselves | _Cress_, / with some_ | Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts. _flowers_. 

 / _Cresses_, \ | _Nasturtium_, / Two parts. | | _Purslane_, \ | _Lop-Lettuce_, / One part. | Green Herbs | Belgrade, _or_ \ _by | Crumpen-_Lettuce_. / Two parts. Themselves | or mingl'd | _Tarragon_, One part. With the_ | Blanch'd. | _Sorrel_, French \ | _Burnet_, / Two parts of each. | \ _Trip-Madame_, One part. 

 ========================================================================= Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_. ========================================================================= Ordering and Species. Proportion. Culture. 

 / _Endive. \ Two if large, four | _Sellery_, | if small, Stalk and | | part of the Root and | / tenderest Leaves. | Blanch'd | _Lop-Lettuce_, \ | _Lambs-Lettuce_, / An handful of each. | | _Radish_, Three parts. \ _Cresses_, Two parts. 

 / _Turneps_, \ | _Mustard_ Seedlings, / One part of each. Green | | _Cresses_, broad, \ \ _Spinach_, / Two parts of each. 

 * * * * *

_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering, Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet. 

And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are thenproperly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound withJuice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipatingit before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not insuch exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fitfor _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, andtender Shoots and Leaves. 

This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true;and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: Theapproaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; asdoes Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for thoseother _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_, the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, andprepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Seasonto collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult_Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing_Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves, and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions. 

Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions, as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Qualitywhatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than_Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of themeaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much ofthe _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, andhastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the_Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all therest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with theNature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. To be both the fittest_Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_. 

We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd, _Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants, and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to beeaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among whichI reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_, _Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _YoungWall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_, _Berberries_, _&c. _ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits;Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_, _Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are allof them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selvesto such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selvesto gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_, or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not moreAgreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is. 

But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or moreproper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Somethink the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction;others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and preventObstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _FugacesFructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable tothe general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin withtheir _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:

 [60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_ _Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_. 

And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho markaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary, [62]_Gratáque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_. 

But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eatingplentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigeratingHerbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found toexpell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, thespirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of acrude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturba surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_, and innovate the ancient Usage. 

 [63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_ _Post Vinum Stomacho_----

 For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat, It floats upon the Stomach----

The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner, especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ andHot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating thebest Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remainsundecided with them, [64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_ _Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_

 The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last, Why now with it begin we our Repast?

And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple:Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and otherTree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; andwhen likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these doproperly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to whichthis Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak ofhereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject alreadypublish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and_Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long tosee the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with whathe finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the_Kitchin-Garden_. 

 * * * * *

DRESSING

I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those whoset up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was_Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditæ Gulæ_; who readLectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenæus_: Tho'after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out theslaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, andthe rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let nonereproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, andNatural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Bloodand Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of_Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age. 

The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the_Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ theWhite: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow greenStem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, andcutting the Root into four equal Parts. 

_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must beexquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer;swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or alltogether; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and BitterHerbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and_Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by itself, as also Sweet _Fennel_. 

From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may_Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we onlymention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner. 

Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkinbefore you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'dDishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good_Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all_Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein letsteep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in aseparate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, strainingboth the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or ofboth, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry_Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingleall these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, 'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And thenwith the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as beforeis taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; andlastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'tillthey are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of_Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if youthink fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of_Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c. 

_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is mostagreeable to your Taste. 

These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_(for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated_secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it, [Greek: 'Ou ôantos andros esin artusai kalôs. ] _Non est cujusvis rectè condire_. 

And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet, there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _CrudeHerbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended?

What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall seehereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer, before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with theReports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredibleAge, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the_Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. Should be inquir'dinto; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen. _1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver. _ 3. Confining themto _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and_Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants, and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since, and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putridCarcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I findfew, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted theAir: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundredsof _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_, and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'dwith what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, whenMen breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _æthereal_, nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' theIntemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of theAges since. 

_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together withthe Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first, especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause ofHealth, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider ofwhat Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist, that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour, and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixturesmight be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whoseConstitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Thingswhich are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions, with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _JuniorGordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidæ Mensæ_ (as of oldthey call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is thefittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, andapt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated;such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherishthe Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revivethe Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are bestRaw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their dueCorrectives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that eventhe most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially beHot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whoseFood is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd, and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what theydistinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plantsand Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and notExperience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of theirProperties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events, supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt aslittle. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with suchadmirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants notonly nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as_Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. Which are both nutritive and warm;_Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. And indeed most of the _Olera_, refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted intothe Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard oftheir Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especiallythe greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but ofvery few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _MateriaMedica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and uponwhose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such asfamiliarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd, and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, andrender'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay, perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture, Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defenceand Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposerswhoever. 

We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronouncethem more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Partsof Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnatedwith the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat andDrought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold, _Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours, and Constitutions whatsoever. 

To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as ofvery great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste andconsequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as areRais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with thosewhich the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, temptsthem to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and deliciousPlants. 

It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities, where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothingis more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy andfresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middleand Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by theWind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with thosepernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_for the raising those _Præcoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Rootsfor the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannotbut produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. Andthe same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_:There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _EdulePlants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'dwith well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture ofGarbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd andventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self, as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderatelyPerflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and livemuch longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, andother Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soiland Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only. Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently theCause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_, by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of allunnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Differencein Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from suchas are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable_Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, accordingto the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and aless forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not todetermine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_;because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_. 

Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean andspurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _EarlyAsparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative andobliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying ofClean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ andover-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_, &c. To produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the meanwhile, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, andby Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the_Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That havingsome Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting anearly Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and someother Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; whichwithin the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high, presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, withoutmaking use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients notaltogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_)shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_, casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating themwith _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dryMatts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_, &c. We have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable andcertain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such asthe honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Gardenseasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time, and without forcing Nature. 

But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomnessof the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of_Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of_America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and NaturalHerbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenæus_ tells us, was on the otherside, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late(as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters tobe much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonistutterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest_Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid thanthe _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldæans_, _Assyrians_, _Ægyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most_Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminatingkind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longævous _Elephant_, and otherFeeders on Roots and Vegetables. 

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Varietyin the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is inthe _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. With othermade Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury hasintroduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour thingsof such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and ofcontrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food ofthe same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_, _Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiæ, genus, & moduspertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regardshould be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of theMatter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended forVariety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not)there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) solittle Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts andVessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, andother Separations for Supply of Life, _&c. _ That it does not appearwhy there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the mostsimple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; accordingto that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_. And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldomafflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned:And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am aptto think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'dStable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; beingrestrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Natureand Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air, standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches, unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiringJourneys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds, _&c. _ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generousCreatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whomtheir more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of theirlong and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the restof their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) havebeen known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_, ) no fewerthan _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple, homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunkand dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concoctsplain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, tovanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we sooften see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, veryhealthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'dthan others of an uncertain extravagant Diet. 

 [83]----_Nam variae res_ _Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae, _ _Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_----

 For different Meats do hurt; Remember how When to one Dish confin'd, thou healthier wast than now:

was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet. 

Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assistour Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshingand proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives;Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with SecularCares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach andother Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needslittle or no Variety to quicken and content it. 

And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and manyPersons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the_Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; andsome exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course andsimple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd goodHours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; whohad attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyondthe famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and somay be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet. 

Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for theFood of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousandYears. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Constitution, there wereDistinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_;_Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for everyone to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent andunbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grewenormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain forhim who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishingFruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless therewas no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born;and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, andstill will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might sopersist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates ofNature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recountof the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition theyhad received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthfulLives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and hisyet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productionsbefore the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardlyallow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grantthem a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in theState of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden;Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibitionconcerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, soapposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures(requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion torelieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues andSuccess of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made butone Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction oftheir Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all othertheir Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particularsconsider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those dofancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who didnot write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessaryand sufficient for us to know. 

This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and thatduring all this Space they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis littleprobable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeitedtheir Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to aLife of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offendedGod should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as sufferthem to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they hadPermission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way ofAdoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho'pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures)as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorousamong them in the Ark. 

Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and_Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and otherluxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the[87][Greek: makro-biotê-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem ofEternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle toa little Span, a Nothing in Comparison. 

On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several otherHeathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _ægyptian_ Priests of old)the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to thisDay, observing the Institutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know wasbanish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_;(See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts. Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. Wehear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand. _ [90]_Eusebius_names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others, whom _Lærtius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of theChristian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathersthemselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to_Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ ofWives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, andto satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subduean unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not sohard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _Sextius_, and _Socion's_(abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the_Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers ofHealth and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men ofnothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, bloodand gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading, for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and howfrom many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit andCustom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be thisapply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_Liquors. And now

I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am goneon this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ decktin its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted_Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd. Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon anyAccount of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd(as _Sextius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruelButcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put tomerciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite anduncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition;Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_:Nor do Meats _commend us to God_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:)another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business, further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances andExamples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so

 [94]_The_ Golden Age, _with this Provision blest, _ _Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast. _ _The_ Demi-Gods _with Bodies large and sound, _ _Commended then the Product of the Ground. _ _Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust_, _Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_ _Be their vile Names in Execration held, _ _Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_ _Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since, _ _With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence. _ _Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly, _ _Which Death for our Destruction does supply. _ _In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_ _Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure. 

As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek:aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'dMen of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see theProhibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_, [95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _ImperialConstitutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of theseTracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eatingthe _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and byour Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Spawn of Pagan_Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Bloodhas been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Waterof the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute itonly to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned thatso strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _CeremonialAccount_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_, to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Bloodforbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seemsto lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among_Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to somany other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitiousFopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats. 

As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Crueltyexcepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians, the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion andObstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty God_ were not enough, it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ ofthe _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysteriousCause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_, &c. It is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted theeating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That God mightdistinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tislikewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the_Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition wasmention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, whichwas not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to convertedStrangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandalof neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages asit was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, soseverely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ andBone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted(which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to bemore express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it doesnot, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few dilutedDrops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juiceand Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) butto those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, andin Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparationsand _Apician_ Tables. 

But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verbafacere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think ofpreaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: Andtherefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellæus_, whohas borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S. Chrysostom_, &c. To the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_, _Dionysius Carthusianus_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of_Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_, _Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. Amongst the _Protestants_; and _instaromnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, bythe Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions, _Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerningit; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather forTemperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I aminclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraôentai], and otherdevout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Courseof Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taughtmuch in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom, _Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ ourLord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. And with several of the devout Sex, thefamous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to namethe rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and_Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanyingit; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuouslyhis Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear theeating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake;but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancientCustom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and Ithink he's in the right. 

But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has oftenbeen objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, maysince the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universallybecome _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious andtranscendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this isbegging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all arenot agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, whereequal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _OrdoFoliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongstother Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone, to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to gothrough that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whetherthey had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and broughtup with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_;and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd bytheir Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of_Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still thinkit not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge(taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintainMens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, wehave the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks, _ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victuusum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderableSpeculation, That since _all Flesh is Grass_ (not in a _Figurative_, but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_, and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed onGrass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _IncarnateHerb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself. 

We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the_Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others wehave mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and otherCircumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exemptingthem from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligationsand vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency)so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking ofMens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercisingthemselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous abovewhat is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) thatthey manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots andMachinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with thesame Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothrêskeia], orthinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This beingso, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and_Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritoriousAbstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats(which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and[103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, andunnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution?and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilstthey would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as theypretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build theirwarm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places ofResort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of anextraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where thereis indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ wherethere is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that theEmperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _ConstantineCopronymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leavetheir Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are whoseldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, areclad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom)and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for theirown, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not;Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders itso far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they knownot how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have oftenconsider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and takennotice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his usefulRemarks abroad. 

'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life, plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, thanfrom any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teachesMen to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative, unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit, as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spendingtheir Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; andthereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious_Solitaries_, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries andRepose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have nosuch Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing andmaking, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their_Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of theseindeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought forabundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bringin, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for theirrigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Graceof Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent, and profitable Conversation. 

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longævity_of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, andinnumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are noless attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr. _Ray_. 

'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universalImportance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in anyPlenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at allwithout them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoevercontributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forthout of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much moreinnocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than withall the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: CertainlyMan by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor ishe arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth andcrooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands togather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nordo we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permittedhim, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c. _

To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both ourVeneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author ofNature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; suchfiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others totemper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body, such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles tocourt the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support ournatural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate anddelight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate andrevive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I hadalmost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardenspresent us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd withGore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_, purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants thereVariety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew. 

Survey we their _Bills of Fare_, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by_Athenæus_, drest with all the Garnish of _Nicander_ and other _Grecian_Wits: What has the _Roman Grand Sallet_ worth the naming? _ParatConvivium_, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told, ----[107]_Varias, quas habet hortus opes?_ How richly the Garden's stor'd:

 _In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum, Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c. _

 * * * * *

A Goodly Sallet!

_Lettuce_, _Leeks_, _Mint_, _Rocket_, _Colewort-Tops_, with _Oyl_ and_Eggs_, and such an _Hotch-Pot_ following (as the Cook in _Plautus_would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age ofours, by the Variety of so many rare _Edules_ unknown to the Ancients, that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, letthe _Sallet_ drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by _JacobusCatsius_ (describ'd by the Poet [108]_Barlæus_) shew; not at all yetout-doing what we every Day almost find at our _Lord Mayor's Table_, andother great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookerybeing capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wantingof old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]_Nicomedes_a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a _Pilchard_ (a Fishhe exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in itsShape, and drest with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Pepper_, that so deceiv'd, andyet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he hadever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious _Gardiner_may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth. 

 Vitellius _his Table, to which every Day_ _All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay, _ _Could nothing more delicious afford_ _Than Nature's Liberality. _ _Help'd with a little Art and Industry, _ _Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board, _ _The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse, _ _For which the Grape or Melon she would lose. _ _Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air. _ _Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;_ _Yet still the_ Sallet, _and the_ Fruit _we see_ _Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury_. 

So the Sweet [110]_Poet_, whom I can never part with for his Love tothis delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me. 

Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign andbountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World, morewith _Plants_ and _Vegetables_ than with any other Provision whatsoever;and the Variety not only equal, but by far exceeding the Pleasureand Delight of Taste (above all the Art of the _Kitchen_, than ever[111]_Apicius_ knew) seems loudly to call, and kindly invite all herliving Inhabitants (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and mostuseful, to the same _Hospitable_ and Common-Board, which first shefurnish'd with _Plants_ and _Fruit_, as to their natural and genuinePasture; nay, and of the most wild, and savage too _ab origine_: As in_Paradise_, where, as the _Evangelical_ [112]Prophet adumbrating thefuture Glory of the _Catholick Church_, (of which that happy _Garden_was the _Antitype_) the _Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious Lion, should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox_. But after all, _latetanguis in herba_, there's a _Snake_ in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess inour most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Gardenfurnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous andexcellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-runningthe Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplantits Luxury to its new Mistriss, _Rome_. Those whom heretofore [113]twoAcres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; hadafterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their firstTerritories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]_Forests_ and _Parks_, _Warrens_ and _Fish-Ponds_, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables, so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, andto shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; theychang'd those frugal and _inemptas Dapes_ of their Ancestors, to thatHeight and Profusion; that we read of [115]_Edicts_ and _SumptuaryLaws_, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of _Sallets_. Butso it was not when the _Pease-Field_ spread a Table for the Conquerorsof the World, and their Grounds were cultivated _Vomere laureato, & triumphali aratore_: The greatest Princes took the _Spade_ and the_Plough-Staff_ in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest[116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from_Plants_ and _Sallet-Herbs_; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch ofingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook(_Heu quam prodiga ventris_!) that, as _Pliny_ tells us (_non sinepudore_, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a _Thistle_to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]_Ass_ would not touch, for fear of pricking his Lips. 

Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies; first, the_Persian_, then the _Grecian_, and afterwards _Rome_ her self: By whatSteps, see elegantly describ'd in Old [118]_Gratius_ the _Faliscian_, deploring his own Age compar'd with the former:

 _O quantum, & quoties decoris frustrata paterni!_ _At qualis nostris, quam simplex mensa Camillis!_ _Qui tibi cultus erat post tot, serrane, triumphos?_ _Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutisq; indole priscæ, _ _Imposuere orbi Romam caput_:----

 Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own, How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown! But our _Camilli_ did but plainly fare, No Port did oft triumphant _Serran_ bear: Therefore such Hardship, and their Heart so great Gave _Rome_ to be the World's Imperial Seat. 

But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their Plenty, spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches; sonever did they taste the Delicaces, and true Satisfaction of a soberRepast, and the infinite Conveniences of what a well-stor'd _Garden_affords; so elegantly describ'd by the [119]_Naturalist_, as costingneither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare, _Res expedita & parata semper_: All was so near at hand, readily drest, and of so easie Digestion; as neither to offend the Brain, or dull theSenses; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn, a little Bread suffic'd. In all Events, _Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde_ _Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis_. 

 Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy, What Nature adds besides is Luxury. 

They could then make an honest Meal, and dine upon a _Sallet_ withoutso much as a Grain, of _Exotic Spice_; And the _Potagere_ was in suchReputation, that she who neglected her _Kitchen-Garden_ (for that wasstill the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a tolerable Hus-wife:_Si vespertinus subitò te oppresserit hospes_, she was never surpriz'd, had all (as we said) at hand, and could in a Trice set forth an handsome_Sallet_: And if this was Happiness, _Convictus facilis sine arte mensa_(as the _Poet_ reckons) it was here in Perfection. In a Word, souniversal was the _Sallet_, that the [120]Un-bloody Shambles (as _Pliny_calls them) yielded the [121]_Roman_ State a more considerable Custom(when there was little more than honest _Cabbage_ and _Worts_) thanalmost any thing bessides brought to Market. 

They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did, gorging themselves with _Flesh_ and _Fish_, so as hardly able to rise, without reeking and reeling from Table. 

 [122]----_Vides ut pallidus omnis_ _Coena desurgat dubia? quin corpus onustum_ _Hesternis vitiis, animum quoque prægravat unà, _ _Atque affigit humo divinæ particulam auræ_. 

 See but how pale they look, how wretchedly, With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be! Nor Body only suff'ring, but the Mind, That nobler Part, dull'd and depress'd we find. Drowsie and unapt for Business, and other nobler Parts of Life. 

Time was before Men in those golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk andlively. 

 ----_Ubi dicto citius curata sopori_ _Membra dedit, Vegetus præscripta ad munera surgit_. 

 With shorter, but much sweeter Sleep content, Vigorous and fresh, about their Business went. 

And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, theirSleep _molli sub arbore_, sound, sweet, and kindly: That excellentEmperour _Tacitus_ being us'd to say of _Lettuce_, that he did _somnumse mercari_ when he eat of them, and call'd it a sumptuous Feast, witha _Sallet_ and a single _Pullet_, which was usually all the Flesh-Meatthat sober Prince eat of; whilst _Maximinus_ (a profess'd Enemy to_Sallet_) is reported to have scarce been satisfied, with sixty Poundsof Flesh, and Drink proportionable. 

There was then also less expensive Grandure, but far more true State;when _Consuls_, great Statesmen (and such as atchiev'd the most renown'dActions) sup'd in their _Gardens_; not under costly, gilded, and inlaidRoofs, but the spreading _Platan_; and drank of the Chrystal Brook, andby Temperance, and healthy Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of _Sallets_, _Ah, quanta innocentiore victu_! with what Content and Satisfaction!Nor, as we said, wanted there Variety; for so in the most blissfulPlace, and innocent State of Nature, See how the first _Empress_ of theWorld _Regal's_ her _Celestial_ Guest:

 [123]_With sav'ry Fruit of Taste to please_ _True Appetite, ---- and brings_ _Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields_ _----Fruit of all kinds, in Coat_ _Rough, or smooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell_. _Heaps with unsparing Hand: For Drink the Grape_ _She crushes, inoffensive Moust, and Meaches_ _From many a Berry, and from sweet Kernel prest, _ _She temper'd dulcid Creams_. ----

Then for the Board. 

 ----_Rais'd of a grassy Turf_ _The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round;_ _And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side, _ _All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence, _ _Deserving Paradise_!

Thus, the _Hortulan_ Provision of the [124]_Golden Age_ fitted all_Places_, _Times_ and _Persons_; and when Man is restor'd to that Stateagain, it will be as it was in the Beginning. 

But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, thatwhilst we justifie our present Subject through all the _Topics ofPanegyric_, we would in Favour of the _Sallet_, drest with all its Pompand Advantage turn Mankind to _Grass_ again; which were ungratefullyto neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort:But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the _Luxury_of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects ofTemperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, anda [125]Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, andwithin a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts ofLife. And thus of old, _Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, _&a. _

He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated_Garden_, with other moderate Circumstances, had [126]_Hæredium_. Allthat a modest Man could well desire. Then, [127]_Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed, _ _A little Garden, little Field does feed. _ _The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird;_ _The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd:_ _The specious Evils of an anxious Life, _ _He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife_. 

O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos!

_FINIS_

 * * * * *

_APPENDIX_

Tho' _it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volumeand Discourse concerning_ Crude Sallets, _with any of the followingReceipts: Yet having since received them from an_ Experienc'd Housewife;_and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improveour_ Acetaria, _we have allow'd them Place as an_ Appendant _Varietyupon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our formerTreatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides diversLearned_ Physicians, _and such as have_ ex professo _written_ de ReCibaria) _we have the Examples of many other_ [128]Noble _and_Illustrious _Persons both among the_ Ancient _and_ Modern. 

1. Artichoak. _Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thinSlices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley, till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with otherfresh melted Butter_. 

_How a_ Poiverade _is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter, See_ Acetaria. P. 5, 6. 

Ashen-keys. _See_ Pickle. 

Asparagus. _See_ Pickle. 

 Beets. \ Broom. | Buds. | _See_ Pickle. Capers. /

Carrot. _See_ Pudding. 

Champignon. _See_ Mushroom. 

2. Chessnut. _Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell, and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on aLump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine_. 

 Collyflower. \ Cucumber. | Elder flowers. | _See_ Pickle. Flowers. | Gilly-flowers. /

Herbs. _See_ Pudding _and_ Tart. 

Limon. _See_ Pickle. 

3. Mushroom. _Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons_, growing _uponsweet Pasture_ _Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip offthe upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; thenslice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: ThenBoil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them aquarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boilinga full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another cleanWater, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Thenbeing taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Brothas will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, asmany Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Perslybound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an_ Anchovy, _Oysters raw, or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew_. _See_Acetar. P. 26. 

Another. 

_Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, topreserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; andwhilst on the Fire, cast in the_ Mushrooms, _letting them boil till theybecome tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Waterbeing drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine_ _and Butter, asmall Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before, with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg_, Anchovies (_one is sufficient_) _Oysters_, &c. _a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, someMutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some_Rocombo _Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg withVinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper_. 

_In_ France _some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) castthem into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onionthey stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor atall; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a littleButter, and so eat them_. 

_In_ Poiverade. 

_The large Mushrooms well cleansed_, &c. _being cut into quarters andstrewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eatenwith fresh Butter_. 

_In_ Powder. 

_Being fresh gathered, cleans'd_, &c. _and cut in Pieces, stew themin Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Thenputting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after theBread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reservethem in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest, see_ Pickle. 

4. Mustard. _Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Watertwo or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out thesound_ (_which will sink to the Bottom_) _rub it very dry in warm courseCloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Thenstamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slicesome Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a smallLump of hard Sugar_ (_which some leave out_) _to temper the Flower with, being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, withan Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which isthe more cleanly: But this_ Receit _is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar, Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some ofthis_ Mustard _adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish_. 

_Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and tokeep fresh a competent while. What part of it does not pass the_ Sarse, _may be beaten again; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closedGlass, and make fresh Mustard when you please_. _See_ Acetaria, p. 38, 67. 

Nasturtium. _Vide_ Pickle. 

Orange. _See_ Limon _in Pickle_. 

5. Parsnip. _Take the large Roots, boil them, and strip the Skin: Thenslit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and fry them infresh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other sweet Buttermelted. Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. Thus you may accomodateother Roots_. 

_There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very tenderwith a little fresh Cream; and being heated again, put to it someButter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dish it upon Sippets;sometimes a few_ Corinths _are added_. 

Peny-royal. _See_ Pudding. 

Pickles. 

6. _Pickl'd_ Artichoaks. _See_ Acetaria, p. 5. 

7. Ashen-keys. _Gather them young, and boil them in three or four Watersto extract the Bitterness; and when they feel tender, prepare a Syrup ofsharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil them ona very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to bepotted so soon as cold_. 

8. Asparagus. _Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-WineVinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and so let them remain for sixWeeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and scum itcarefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when 'tis cold, pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year_. 

9. Beans. _Take such as are fresh, young, and approaching their fullGrowth. Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt ableto bear an Egg. Cover them very close, and so will they be preservedtwelve Months: But a Month before you use them, take out what Quantityyou think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year (for so longthe second Pickle will keep them sound) and boil them in a Skillet offresh Water, till they begin to look green, as they soon will do. Thenplacing them one by one, (to drain upon a clean course Napkin) rangethem Row by Row in a_ Jarr, _and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spiceyou please; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under thePickle. Thus you may preserve French-Beans_, Harico's, &c. _the wholeYear about_. 

10. Broom-Buds _and_ Pods. _Make a strong Pickle, as above; stir it verywell, till the Salt be quite dissolved, clearing off the Dregs and Scum. The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and having rubbed the Buds dry potthem up in a Pickle-Glass, which should be frequently shaken, till theysink under it, and keep it well stopt and covered_. 

_Thus may you-pickle any other_ Buds. _Or as follows:_

11. _Of_ Elder. _Take the largest_ Buds, _and boil them in a Skilletwith Salt and Water, sufficient only to scald them; and so (being takenoff the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; and then pot them withVinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to cleanse it_. 

12. Collyflowers. _Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with some ofthe Stalk, and worst of the Flower, boil it in a part of the Liquor tillpretty strong: Then being taken off, strain it; and when settled, clearit from the Bottom. Then with_ Dill, _Gross Pepper, a pretty Quantity ofSalt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp, and pour allupon the_ Collyflower; _and so as to keep them from touching oneanother; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them_. 

Cornelians _are pickled like_ Olives. 

13. Cowslips. _Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow about onePound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which boil to aSyrup, and cover it scalding-hot. Thus you may pickle_ Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, _and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, make a very agreeableSalletine_. 

14. Cucumbers. _Take the_ Gorkems, _or smaller_ Cucumbers; _put theminto_ Rape-Vinegar, _and boyl, and cover them so close, as none of theVapour may issue forth; and also let them stand till the next day: Thenboil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, white Pepper, and a little Salt, (according to discretion) straining theformer Liquor from the_ Cucumbers; _and so place them in a Jarr, or widemouthed Glass, laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; andcovering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle, keep all close, andrepeat it daily, till you find them sufficiently green_. 

_In the same sort_ Cucumbers _of the largest size, being peel'd and cutinto thin Slices, are very delicate_. 

Another. 

_Wiping them clean, put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt, to soak two or three Hours or longer, if you see Cause: Then rangethem in the_ Jarr _or_ Barrellet _with Herbs and Spice as usual; andcover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar, and one ofWhite-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well closed. A Fortnight after scaldthe Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: Thus they will keep longer, and from being so soon sharp, eat crimp and well tasted, tho' notaltogether so green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hysop, Costmary_, &c. _and as some do, strow on them a little Powder of_ Roch-Allom, _whichmakes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after_. 

Mango _of_ Cucumbers. 

_Take the biggest_ Cucumbers _(and most of the_ Mango _size) that lookgreen: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supplytheir Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some_ Roccombo _Seeds. Then put them into an Earthen Glazed_ Jarr, _or wide-mouth'd Glass, withas much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegarwith Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. And when off the Fire, as much Salt aswill make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the_ Cucumbers, _covering them close till the next Day. Then put them with a littleDill, and Pickle into a large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two, return them into the Vessel again: And when all is cold, add a goodSpoonful of the best_ Mustard, _keeping it from the Air, and so have youan excellent_ Mango. _When you have occasion to take any out, make useof a Spoon, and not your Fingers_. 

Elder. _See_ Buds. 

Flowers. _See_ Cowslips, _and for other_ Flowers. 

15. Limon. _Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and shift them inseveral Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and wipe themdry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little White-WineVinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar, carefullyscum'd. When all is cold, pour it on the peel'd Rind, and cover it allclose in a convenient Glass Jarr. Some make a Syrup of Vinegar, White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot_. 

16. Melon. _The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as_Cucumber, _make an excellent Sallet_. 

17. Mushrom. _Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar; as much ofWhite-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten together: Letthe Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half; then taken off, andbeing cold, pour the Liquour on the_ Mushroms; _but leave out the boiledSpice, and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole, the Nutmeg only slitin Quarters, with some Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you please awhole raw Onion, which take out again when it begins to perish_. 

Another. 

_The_ Mushroms _peel'd_, &c. _throw them into Water, and then intoa Sauce-Pan, with some long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a quarter'd Nutmeg, with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little Salt. Let themall boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then take outand cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them in someWhite-Wine; which (being cold) cast upon the_ Mushroms, _and fill upthe Pot with the best White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, and an Handful ofSalt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long keeping, pourSallet-Oil over all, tho' they will be preserved a Year without it_. 

_They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water, with some Milk, and layingthem in the Colender to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, cast them intothe Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg, Gingerbruised, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the Liquor onthem cold without boiling_. 

18. Nasturtium Indicum. _Gather the Buds before they open to flower; laythem in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into an EarthenGlazed Vessel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover it with a Board. Thus letting it stand for eight or ten Days: Then being taken out, andgently press'd, cast them into fresh Vinegar, and let them so remain aslong as before. Repeat this a third time, and Barrel them up withVinegar and a little Salt_. 

Orange. _See_ Limon. 

20. Potato. _The small green Fruit (when about the size of the WildCherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root beingroasted under the Embers, or otherwise, open'd with a Knife, the Pulpis butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, andis seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugartogether in the Skin, which has a pleasant Crimpness. They are alsostew'd and bak'd in Pyes_, &c. 

21. Purselan. _Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them withBeer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight toimbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as muchWhite-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and close the Lid withPaste to keep in the Steam: Then set them on the Fire for three or fourHours, often shaking and stirring them: Then open the Cover, and turnand remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to the Top, and boilthem as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all is cold, potthem with fresh White-Wine Vinegar, and so you may preserve them thewhole Year round_. 

22. Radish. _The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd, are a prettySallet_. 

23. Sampier. _Let it be gathered about_ Michaelmas _(or the Spring) andput two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a cleanTin'd Brass Pot, with three parts of strong White-Wine Vinegar, and onepart of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the_ Sampier, _keepingthe Vapour from issuing out, by pasting down the Pot-lid, and so hangit over the Fire for half an Hour only. Being taken off, let it remaincovered till it be cold; and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars, with the Liquor, and some fresh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus itwill keep very green. If you be near the Sea, that Water will supply theplace of Brine. This is the_ Dover _Receit_. 

24. Walnuts. _Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, butnot before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water aswill more than cover them. Then set them on the Fire, and when the waterboils, and grows black, pour it off, and supply it with fresh, boilingit as before, and continuing to shift it till it become clear, and the_Nuts _pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean Spring Water fortwo Days, changing it as before with fresh, two or three times withinthis space: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a clean course Cloth, and put them up in a Glass Jar, with a few Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves, Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; strowing them under every Layer of Nuts, till the Vessel be three quarters full; and lastly, replenishing it withthe best Vinegar, keep it well covered; and so they will be fit to spendwithin three Months_. 

To make a _Mango_ with them. 

_The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar withsome Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt_, &c. _and then a Bed of Nuts;and so_ stratum _upon_ stratum, _as above, adding to the Spice some_Roccombo-Seeds; _and filling the rest of the Jar with the bestWhite-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the best Mustard; and to let themremain close covered, during two or three Months time: And thus have youa more agreeable_ Mango _than what is brought us from abroad; which youmay use in any Sauce, and is of it self a rich Condiment_. 

_Thus far_ Pickles. 

25. Potage Maigre. _Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or threeOnions stuck with some Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon Peel, Salt, whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in a fineCloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then havingSpinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few small Tops ofCives, wash'd and pick'd clean, shred them well, and cast them into theLiquor, with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd, with a Bunchof sweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a_ French Roll; _and so suffer itto boil during three Hours; and then dish it with another small_ FrenchRoll, _and Slices about the Dish: Some cut Bread in slices, and fryingthem brown (being dried) put them into the Pottage just as it is goingto be eaten_. 

_The same Herbs, clean wash'd, broken and pulled asunder only, being putin a close cover'd Pipkin, without any other Water or Liquor, will stewin their own Juice and Moisture. Some add an whole Onion, which after awhile should be taken out, remembring to season it with Salt and Spice, and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter_. 

26. Pudding _of_ Carrot. _Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread, and grate of half as much of the rest as there is of the Root, whichmust also be grated: Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk, half a Pound of fresh Butter, six new laid Eggs (taking out three of theWhites) mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter: Then putin the grated Bread and Carrot, with near half a Pound of Sugar; and alittle Salt; some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into aconvenient Dish or Pan, butter'd, to keep the Ingredients from stickingand burning; set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and so have youa Composition for any_ Root-Pudding. 

27. Penny-royal. _The Cream, Eggs, Spice_, &c. _as above, but not somuch Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigoldflower_, &c. _very well shred, and mingle with the Cream, Eggs_, &c. _four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of Cream, and almost a Poundof Beef-Suet chopt very small, the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, andstirring all well together, put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast. It will be boil'd within an Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the_Carrot-Pudding. _The sauce is for both, a little Rose-water, lessVinegar, with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with theSugar Caster_. 

_Of this Plant discreetly dried, is made a most wholsom and excellentTea_. 

28. _Of_ Spinage. _Take a sufficient Quantity of_ Spinach, _stamp andstrain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the Yolk of as many Eggsas in the former Composition of the_ Carrot-Pudding; _some Marrow shredsmall, Nutmeg, Sugar, some Corinths, (if you please) a few Carroways, Rose, or Orange-flower Water (as you best like) to make it grateful. Mingle all with a little boiled Cream; and set the Dish or Pan in theOven, with a Garnish of Puff-Paste. It will require but very moderateBaking. Thus have you Receits for_ Herb Puddings. 

29. Skirret-Milk _Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulpstrained out, put into Cream or new Milk boiled, with three or fourYolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice_, &c. _And thus iscomposed any other Root-Milk_. _See_ Acetar. P. 42. 

30. Tansie. _Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits, putthem into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve fresh Eggs, four of theWhites cast out, strain the rest, and break them with two Spoonfuls ofRose-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated Nutmeg: And whenready for the Pan, put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach, Cleaver, Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primrose tender Leaves, (for of any of these you may take your choice) with a very small Sprigof Tansie, and let it be fried so as to look green in the Dish, with aStrew of Sugar and store of the Juice of Orange: some affect to haveit fryed a little brown and crisp_. 

31. Tart _of_ Herbs. _An_ Herb-Tart _is made thus: Boil fresh Cream orMilk, with a little grated Bread or_ Naples-Biscuit _(which is better)to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete (or whatother Herb you please) being first par-boil'd and chop'd. Then add_Macaron, _or Almonds beaten to a Paste, a little sweet Butter, the Yolkof five Eggs, three of the Whites rejected. To these some add Corinthsplump'd in Milk, or boil'd therein, Sugar, Spice at Discretion, andstirring it all together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan_. 

32. Thistle. _Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the_Milky-Thistle, _about_ May, _when they are young and tender: wash andscrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little Salt, till they arevery soft, and so let them lie to drain. They are eaten with freshButter melted not too thin, and is a delicate and wholsome Dish. OtherStalks of the same kind may so be treated, as the_ Bur, _being tenderand disarmed of its Prickles_, &c. 

33. Trufles, _and other_ Tubers, _and_ Boleti, _are roasted whole inthe_ Embers; _then slic'd and stew'd in strong Broth with Spice_, &c. _as_ Mushroms _are. Vide_ Acetar. P. 28. 

34. Turnep. _Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to seed) asfar as they will easily break downwards: Peel and tie them in Bundles. Then boiling them as they do_ Sparagus, _are to be eaten with meltedButter. Lastly_, 35. Minc'd, _or_ Sallet-all-sorts. 

_Take Almonds blanch'd in cold Water, cut them round and thin, andso leave them in the_ _Water; Then have pickl'd Cucumbers, Olives, Cornelians, Capers, Berberries, Red-Beet, Buds of_ Nasturtium, _Broom_, &c. _Purslan-stalk, Sampier, Ash-Keys, Walnuts, Mushrooms (and almostof all the pickl'd Furniture) with Raisins of the Sun ston'd, Citronand Orange-Peel, Corinths (well cleansed and dried)_ &c. _mince themseverally (except the Corinths) or all together; and strew them overwith any Candy'd Flowers, and so dispose of them in the same Dish bothmixt, and by themselves. To these add roasted_ Maroons, Pistachios, Pine-Kernels, _and of Almonds four times as much as of the rest, withsome Rose-water. Here also come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar inlittle_ China _Dishes. And thus have you an Universal_ Winter-Sallet, _or an_ All sort _in Compendium, fitted for a City Feast, anddistinguished from the_ Grand-Sallet: _which shou'd consist of the Greenblanch'd and unpickled, under a stately_ Pennash _of_ Sellery, _adorn'dwith Buds and Flowers_. 

_And thus have we presented you a Taste of our_ English GardenHousewifry _in the matter of_ Sallets: _And though some of them may beVulgar, (as are most of the best things;) Yet she was willing to impartthem, to shew the Plenty, Riches and Variety of the_ Sallet-Garden:_And to justifie what has been asserted of the Possibility of living(not unhappily) on_ Herbs _and_ Plants, _according to_ Original _and_Divine Institution, _improved by Time and long Experience. And if we haveadmitted_ Mushroms _among the rest (contrary to our Intention, and forReasons given_, Acet. P. 43. ) _since many will by no means abandon them, we have endeavoured to preserve them from those pernicious Effects whichare attributed to, and really in them: We cannot tell indeed whetherthey were so treated and accommodated for the most Luxurious of the_Cæsarean Tables, _when that Monarchy was in its highest Strain of_Epicurism, _and ingross'd this_ Haugout _for their second Course; whilstthis we know, that 'tis but what_ Nature _affords all her Vagabondsunder every Hedge_. 

_And now, that our_ Sallets _may not want a Glass of generous Wine ofthe same Growth with the rest of the Garden to recommend it, let us haveyour Opinion of the following_. 

Cowslip-Wine. _To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of_ Sugar; _boilit an Hour, and set it to cool: Then spread a good brown_ Toast _on bothSides with Yeast: But before you make use of it, beat some Syrup of_Citron _with it, an Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor:Then put in the_ Toast _whilst hot, to assist its_ Fermentation, _whichwill cease in two Days; during which time cast in the_ Cowslip-Flowers_(a little bruised, but not much stamp'd) to the Quantity of half aBushel to ten Gallons (or rather three Pecks) four_ Limons _slic'd, withthe Rinds and all. Lastly, one Pottle of_ White _or_ Rhenish Wine; _andthen after two Days, tun it up in a sweet Cask. Some leave out all theSyrup_. 

_And here, before we conclude, since there is nothing of more constantUse than good Vinegar; or that has so near an Affinity to all our_Acetaria, _we think it not amiss to add the following (much approved)Receit_. 

Vinegar. _To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed threePounds of_ Malaga-Raisins: _Put them in an Earthen Jarr, and place themwhere they may have the hottest Sun, from_ May till Michaelmas: _Thenpressing them well, Tun the Liquor up in a very strong Iron-HoopedVessel to prevent its bursting. It will appear very thick and muddy whennewly press'd, but will refine in the Vessel, and be as clear as Wine. Thus let it remain untouched for three Months, before it be drawn off, and it will prove Excellent_ Vinegar. 

Butter. Butter _being likewise so frequent and necessary an Ingredientto divers of the foregoing_ Appendants: _It should be carefully melted, that it turn not to an Oil; which is prevented by melting it leisurely, with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Dish or Pan; and bycontinual shaking and stirring, kept from boiling or over-heating, whichmakes it rank_. 

_Other rare and exquisite_ Liquors _and Teas (Products of our_ Gardens_only) we might super-add, which we leave to our_ Lady Housewives, _whose Province indeed all this while it is_. 

_THE END_

 * * * * *

The Table

 _Abstemious Persons who eat no Flesh, nor were under Vows_, 104

 Abstersives, 42

 ACETARIA, _Criticisms on the Word, how they differ from Olera, &c. _, 1

 Achilles, 77

 Acids, 63

 Adam _and_ Eve _lived on Vegetables and Plants_, 94

 Africans _eat_ Capsicum Indicum, 34

 _Aged Persons_, 44; _Sallet-Eaters_, 80

 _Agues_, 81

 _Air_, 80

 Alliaria, 19

 _Ale_, 15

 Alleluja, 47

 Alexanders, 5

 Allium, 18

 _Altar dedicated to Lettuce_, 21

 Anagallis, 9

 Annæus Serenus _poisoned by Mushroms_, 27

 _Anatomy, Comparative_, 90

 Antecoenia, 74

 Antediluvians _eat no Flesh for_ 2000 _years_, 80

 Aparine, 12

 _Aperitives_, 10

 _Appetite_, 21; _How to subdue_, 98

 Apician _Luxury_, 103

 Apium, 35; Italicum, 41

 _Aromatics_, 13

 _Artichoaks_, 5

 Arum Theophrasti, 48

 Ascalonia, 41

 Ascetics, 106

 _Asparagus_, 43; _preferable to the_ Dutch, 43; _how to cover in Winter without Dung_, 87

 Asphodel, 23

 _Astringents_, 9

 _Asthmatical_, 31

 Assa foetida, 52

 Atriplex, 32

 Augustus, 21

 _Autumn_, 71

B. 

 Barlæus's _Description Poetic of a Sallet Collation_, 113

 _Basil_, 7

 _Baulm_, 7

 _Beere_, 15

 _Beet_, 7, 79

 _Benzoin_, 51

 _Bile_, 36

 _Blite_, 8

 _Blood to purifie_, 8; _Eating it prohibited_, 100

 Boletus, 26

 _Books of_ Botany, 54; _to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants_, ib. 

 _Borrage_, 8

 _Bowels_, 58

 _Brain_, 7, 38

 Bramins, 97

 Brandy _and Exotic Liquors pernicious_, 93

 _Bread and Sallet sufficient for Life_, 2; _Made of Turnips_, 46

 _Breast_, 19

 Broccoli, 10

 _Brook lime_, 9

 _Broth_, 19

 _Brute Animals much healthier than Men, why_, 91

 _Buds_, 9

 _Buglos_, 9

 Bulbo Castanum, 15

 Buphthalmum, 15

 _Burnet_, 35

 _Butter_, 64

C. 

 Cabbage, 10

 Capsicum Indicum, 34

 Cardialgia, 34

 Carduus Sativus, 5

 Cardon, Spanish, 6

 _Carnivorous Animals_, 89

 _Carrots_, 11

 _Cattel relish of their Pasture and Food_, 86; _Vide Fowl_. 

 _Cauly flower_, 11

 Cepæ, 31

 _Cephalics_, 30

 Chæriphyllum, 12

 Champignons, 26; _Vide_ Mushroms. 

 _Chastity_, 21

 _Children chuse to eat Fruit before other Meat_, 94

 _Christians abstaining from eating Flesh_, 97

 _Choler_, 20

 _Church Catholics Future Glory predicted_, 115

 Cibarium, 63

 Cicuta, 48

 Cinara, 5

 _Clary_, 12

 Claudius Cæsar, 27

 _Claver_, 12

 _Cleansing_, 44

 _Climate_, 80

 Cochlearia, 41; _vide Scurvy-Grass_. 

 _Cooks_, 77; _Physicians to Emperors and Popes_, 55; _vide_ Heroes. 

 _Collation of Sallet, Extemporary_, 73

 _Cold_, 16

 _Cooling_, 33

 _Complexion_, 84

 _Composing, and Composer of Sallets_, 71

 _Compotation_, 74

 _Concession to eat Flesh, since which Mens Lives shortned_, 97

 _Concoction_, 18

 Condiments, 64; _vide_ Sauce. 

 _Conscience_, 98

 _Consent; vide Harmony_. 

 _Constitution of Body_, 57

 Consuls _and Great Persons supt in their Garden_, 121

 _Contemplative Persons_, 104

 Convictus Facilis, 117

 _Cordials_, 7

 _Coriander_, 49

 _Corrago_, 9

 _Correctives_, 82

 _Corn, what Ground most proper for it_, 86

 _Corn Sallet_, 12

 _Corroboratives_, 52

 _Corpulency_, 82

 _Cowslips_, 13

 _Cresses_, 13

 Crithmum, 40

 _Crudities_, 26

 _Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food_, 99

 _Cucumber_, 13

 _Culture, its Effects_, 42

 _Custom_, 81; _Of Sallet Herbs, how great a Revenue to_ Rome, 119

D. 

 _Daffodil_, 48

 _Daisie_, 15

 _Dandelion_, 15

 Dapes Inemptæ, 116

 Dauci, 11

 _Decay in Nature, none_, 106

 _Decoction_, 19

 _Deobstructions_, 5

 Deorum filii, 26

 _Distinction of Meats abrogated_, 94

 _Detersives_, 8

 _Dishes for Sallets_, 69

 _Dissimilar Parts of Animals require Variety of Food_, 89

 _Diuretics_, 19

 _Dock_, 15

 _Dogs Mercury_, 54

 Domitian _Emp. _, 74

 Draco herba, 45

 _Dressing of Sallets_, vide _Sallet_. 

 _Dry Plants_, 17

 _Dung_, 85; _Sallets rais'd on it undigested_, 86

E. 

 Earth, _whether much altered since the Flood_, 81; _about great Cities, produces rank and unwholsome Sallets_, 85

 _Earth-Nuts_, 15

 _Eggs_, 68

 _Elder_, 16

 _Emollients_, 15

 _Endive_, 16

 _Epicurism_, 99

 _Eremit's_, vide _Monks_. 

 _Eruca_, 39

 _Eructation_, 38

 Eruditæ gulæ, 77

 _Escalons_, 31

 _Eternity_, vide _Patriarchs_. 

 Eupeptics, 58

 Euphrosyne, 9

 _Excess_, 72

 _Exhilarate_, 7

 _Exotic Drinks and Sauces dangerous_, 90

 _Experience_, 83

 _Eyes_, 7, vide _Sight_. 

F. 

 Fabrorum prandia, 8

 _Fainting_, 47

 _Families enobl'd by names of Sallet Plants_, 20

 _Farcings_, 35

 Fascicule, 70

 _Fevers_, 20

 _Felicity of the Hortulan Life_, 122

 _Fennel_, 17

 _Flatulents_, 33

 Flesh, _none eaten during 2000 years. Flesh eaters not so ingenious as Sallet eaters: unapt for Study and Bussiness; shortens Life; how all Flesh is Grass_, 94

 _Flowers_, 17

 Foliatorum ordo, 105

 _Fowl relish of their Food_, 86

 _Food. No Necessity of different Food_, 90; _The simplest best_, 92; _Man's original Food_, 93

 _Fools unfit to gather Sallets contrary to the_ Italian _Proverb_, 61

 _Friers_, vide _Monks_. 

 Frigidæ Mensæ, 82

 _Frugality of the ancient_ Romans, _&c. _, 21

 _Fruit_, 75; _not reckon'd among Sallets_, 76; _not degenerated since the Flood, where industry is us'd_, 104

 Fugaces fructus, 74

 Fungus, 26, vide _Mushroms_. 

 Fungus reticularis, 27

 _Furniture and Ingredients of Sallets_, 61

G. 

 Galen _Lover of Lettuce_, 21

 _Gardiner's happy Life_, 113; _Entertain Heroes and great Persons_, 115

 _Garlick_, 18

 _Garnishing_, 8

 _Gatherers of Sallets should be skilful Herbarists_, 71

 Gemmæ, 9, _vide_ Buds. 

 _Gerkems_, 15, _vide Cucumber_. 

 _Ginny-Pepper_, 78

 _Goats beard_, 18

 _Golden Age_, 99

 Gordian _Emp. _, 82

 Gramen Amygdalosum, 48

 _Grand Sallet_, 42

 _Grass_, 82

 _Grillus_, 56

 _Gymnosophists_, 97

H. 

 _Habits difficult to overcome, applied to Flesh-Eaters_, 98

 Hæredium _of old_, 123

 Halimus, 36

 _Harmony in mixing Sallet Ingredients as Notes in Musick_, 60

 Hautgout, 77

 _Head_, 40, _vide Cephalicks_. 

 _Heart_, 42, _vide Cordials_. 

 Heliotrop, 49

 _Hemlock_, 54

 _Herbaceous Animals know by instinct what Herbs are proper for them better than Men_, 56; _and excel them in most of the senses_, ib. 

 _Herbals_, vide _Books_. 

 _Herbs, crude, whether wholsome_, 80; _What proper for Sallets_, 70; _Their Qualities and Vertues to be examined_, 82; _Herby Diet most Natural_, 98

 Heroes _of old skill'd in Cookery_, 77

 Hippocrates _condemns Radish_, 37; _That Men need only Vegetables_, 106

 Hipposelinum, 5

 Holyhoc, 24

 _Honey_, 14

 _Hops_, 19

 Horarii fructus, 74

 Horminum, 12

 _Horses not so diseased as Men_, 91; _Recompens'd by some Masters for long Service_, 91

 _Horse-Radish_, 38

 _Hortulan Provision most plentiful of any, advantageous, universal, natural, &c. _, 110

 _Hot Plants_, 8

 _Hot Beds, how unwholsome for Salleting_, 85

 _House-wife had charge of the Kitchin Garden_, 119

 _Humours_, 57

 _Hypochondria_, 9

 _Hysop_, 19

I. 

 _Ilander_, 58; _obnoxious to the Scorbute_, ib. 

 _Indigestion_, 38

 _Ingredients_, 4, vide _Furniture_. 

 _Insects_, 28

 Intuba Sativa, 16

 Isrælites _Love of Onions_, 32

J. 

 _Jack-by-the-Hedge_, 19

 John _the_ Baptist, 106

 Justin Martyr _concerning the eating of Blood_, 101

K. 

 _Knife for cutting Sallets_, 68

 _Kitchen Garden_, 119, vide Potagere. 

L. 

 Lapathum, 24

 Laserpitium, 51

 Latet anguis in herba, 115

 _Laws_, 116

 _Laxatives_, 7

 _Leeks_, 20

 Legumena, 73

 _Lettuce_, 20

 _Limon_, 23

 _Liver_, 13

 _Longævity_, 81

 Lotophagi, 106

 _Lungs_, 20

 Lupulus, 19

 _Luxury_, 81

 Lysimachia Seliquosa glabra, 49

 Lyster, _Dr. _, 56

M. 

 Macarons, 49

 Majoran, 19

 _Mallows_, 23

 Malvæ folium sanctissimum, ib. 

 _Man before the Fall knew the Vertues of Plants_, 83; _Unbecoming his Dignity to butcher the innocent Animal for Food_, 94; _Not by nature carnivorous_, 111; _Not lapsed so soon as generally thought_, 95

 _Marygold_, 19

 _Masculine Vigour_, 52

 Materia medica, 65

 _Materials for Sallets_, vide _Furniture_. 

 Maximinus _an egregious Glutton, Sallet-hater_, 121

 _Meats commend not to God_, 99

 _Medals of_ Battus _with_ Silphium _on the reverse_, 51

 Melissa, 7

 _Melon, how cultivated by the Ancients_, 24

 _Memory to assist_, 7

 _Mints_, 25

 Mithacus, _a Culinary Philosopher_, 77

 _Mixture_, 57

 _Moist_, 9

 _Monks and Friers perstring'd for their idle unprofitable Life_, 107 & _seqq. _

 Morocco _Ambassador_, 43; _Lover of Sow-thistles_. 

 Mortuorum cibi _Mushroms_, 20

 Mosaical _Customs_, 94; Moses _gave only a summary account of the Creation, sufficient for instruction, not Curiosity_, 102

 _Mushroms_, 26; _Pernicious Accidents of eating them_, 26; _How produced artificially_, 29

 _Mustard_, 30

 _Myrrh_, 12

 _Myrtil-Berries_, 35

N. 

 Napus, 46

 Nasturtium, 13; Indicum, 41

 _Nature invites all to Sallets_, 111

 Nepenthes, 9

 _Nerves_, 54

 _Nettle_, 30

 _Nigard_, 61

 _Nourishing_, 5

O. 

 _Obstructions_, 16

 _Ocimum_, 7

 Olera, _what properly, how distinguish'd from Acetaria_, 1, 2

 Oluscula, 4

 _Onion_, 31; _What vast Quantities spent in_ Egypt, 32

 _Opening_, 16

 Orach, 32

 _Orange_, 23

 Ornithogallon, 48

 Oxalis, 42

 Oxylapathum, 15

 _Oyl, how to choose_, 63; _Its diffusive Nature_, 69

P. 

 _Painters_, 50

 _Palpitation_, 47

 _Palsie_, 30

 _Panacea_, 10

 Paradisian _Entertainment_, 122

 Paralysis, 13

 _Parsnip_, 33

 Pastinaca Sativa, 11

 _Patriarchs_, 93; _Their Long Lives a Shadow of Eternity_, 96

 _Peach said to be Poison in_ Persia, _a Fable_, 87

 _Peas_, 33

 _Pectorals_, 58

 _Pepper_, 33; _Beaten too small, hurtful to the Stomach_, 34

 _Persly_, 35; _Sacred to the Defunct_, ib. 

 _Philosophers_, 56

 _Phlegm_, 30

 _Pickle_, 72; _What Sallet Plants proper for Pickles_, ib. , _vide Appendix_. 

 _Pig-Nuts_, 28

 _Pimpernel_, 9

 _Plants, their Vertue_, 59; _Variety_, 114; _Nourishment_, 83; _No living at all without them_, 110; _Plants infect by looking on_, 57; _When in prime_, 71; _how altered by the Soil and Culture_, 84; _Not degenerated since the Flood_, 105

 Platonic _Tables_, 97

 _Pleurisie_, 81

 _Poiverade_, 7

 _Poppy_, 48

 Porrum, 20

 Postdiluvians, 93

 _Potage_, 5

 Potagere, 119

 _Pot-Herbs_, 19

 _Poyson_, 18

 _Præcoce Plants not so wholsome artificially rais'd_, 85

 _Preparation to the dressing of Sallets_, 10

 _Prodigal_, 61

 _Pugil_, 70

 _Punishment_, 18

 _Purslan_, 36

 _Putrefaction_, 33

 Pythagoras, 97

Q. 

 _Quality and Vertue of Plants_, 53. _See Plants_. 

R. 

 _Radish_, 37; _of Gold dedicated at_ Delphi, 37; Moschius _wrote a whole Volume in praise of them_, ib. ; Hippocrates _condemns them_, ib. 

 Raphanus Rusticanus _Horse Radish_, 38

 Radix Lunaria, 48; Personata, 49

 Ragout, 28

 _Rampion_, 39

 _Rapum_, 46

 _Ray, Mr. _, 55

 _Refreshing_, 13

 _Restaurative_, 5

 _Rocket_, 39

 _Roccombo_, 18

 Roman _Sallet_, 112; _Lux_, 115

 _Rosemary_, 39

 _Roots_, 37

 _Rhue_, 49

S. 

 _Saffron_, 68

 _Sage_, 39

 _Sallets, what, how improved, whence so called_, 3; _Ingredients_, 4; _Variety and Store above what the Ancients had_, 112; _Bills of Fare_, 112; _Skill in choosing, gathering, composing and dressing_, 48; _found in the Crops of Foul_, 62; _what formerly in use, now abdicated_, 49; _extemporary Sallets_, 87; _Whether best to begin or conclude with Sallets_, 73

 Salade de Preter, 13

 _Salt_, 64; _What best for Sallets_, 64; _Salts Essential, and of Vegetables_, 65

 Sambucus, 16

 _Sampier_, 40

 _Sanguine_, 36

 Sarcophagists, 56

 _Sauce_, 39

 _Savoys_, 11

 _Scallions_, 41

 Scorbute, vide _Scurvy_. 

 _Scurvy-Grass_, 41

 _Scurvy_, 9

 _Season_, 71

 _Seasoning_, 79, vide _Sallet_. 

 Sedum minus, 45, _vide_ Stone-Crop. 

 _Sellery_, 41

 Seneca, 98

 _Shambles_, 77

 _Sight_, 50, vide _Eyes_. 

 Silphium, 50; _How precious and sacred_, 51

 _Simples_, 49

 _Sinapi_, 30

 _Sisarum_, 42

 _Skirrits_, ib. 

 _Sleep, to procure_, 21

 _Smallage_, 41

 _Smut in Wheat_, 86

 Syrenium Vulgare, 5

 _Snails, safe Tasters_, 56

 _Sonchus_, 43

 _Sordidness_, 87

 _Sorrel_, 42

 _Sow-thistle_, vide Sonchus. 

 _Specificks, few yet discovered_, 83

 _Spleen_, 10

 _Spinach_, 12

 _Spirits, cherishing and reviving_, 9

 _Spring_, 71

 _Stomach_, 16

 _Stone_, 9

 _Stone-Crop_, 44

 _Strowings_, 67

 _Students_, 9

 _Succory_, 44

 _Sugar_, 14

 _Summer_, 84

 _Sumptuary Laws_, 116

 _Swearing_ per Brassicam, 11

 _Swine used to find out Truffles and Earth-Nuts_, 28

T. 

 _Table of Species, Culture, Proportion and dressing of Sallets, according to the Season_, 70

 Tacitus, _Emp. Temperance_, 21

 _Tansie_, 44

 _Tarragon_, 45

 _Taste should be exquisite in the Composer of Sallets_, 60

 _Tea_, 17, vide Appendix. 

 _Temper_, 81

 _Temperance_, 21

 _Teeth_, 37

 Theriacle, _vide Garlick_. 

 _Thirst, to asswage_, 33

 _Thistle_, 45

 _Thyme_, 19, vide _Pot-herbs_. 

 Tiberius Cæs. , 42

 Tragopogon, 47

 _Transmigration_, 56

 _Tribute paid to Roots_, 42

 Truffles, 28

 Tubera, 28

 _Tulip eaten that cost_ 100 _l. _, 47

 Turiones, 9

 _Turnip_, 46; _Made a Fish_, 113

V. 

 _Vapours to repress_, 21

 _Variety necessary and proper_, 92

 _Ventricle_, 20, vide _Stomach_. 

 _Vine_, 47

 _Vinegar_, 63; vide Appendix. 

 _Viper-Grass_, 47

 _Vertues of Sallet Plants and Furniture_, 57; _Consist in the several and different Parts of the same Plant_, 49

 Voluptuaria Venena, 28

U. 

 Urtica, 30

W. 

 _Welsh, prolifick_, 20

 _Wind_, 17

 _Wine_, 7; vide _Appendix_. 

 _Winter Sallets_, 7; vide _Appendix_. 

 _Wood-Sorrel_, 47

 _Worms in Fennel, and Sellery_, 17

 _Wormwood_, 49

Y. 

 _Youth to preserve_, 85

 * * * * *

FOOTNOTES

[Footnote 1: _Lord Viscount_ Brouncker, _Chancellor to the Late Qu. Consort, now_ Dowager. _The Right Honourable_ Cha. Montague, _Esq;Chancellor of the_ Exchequer. ]

[Footnote 2: _Si quid temporis à civilibus negotiis quibis totum jamintenderat animum, suffurari potuit, colendis agris, priscos illosRomanos_ Numam Pompilium, Cincinnatum, Catonem, Fabios, Cicerones, _aliosque virtute claros viros imitare; qui in magno honore constituti, vites putare, stercorare agros, & irrigare nequaquam turpe & inhone stumputarunt_. In Vit. _Plin. _ 2. ]

[Footnote 3: Ut hujusmodi historiam vix dum incohatum, non anteabsolvendam putem. 

Exitio terras quam dabit una dies. _D. Raius_ Praefat. Hist. Plan. ]

[Footnote 4: Olera a frigidis distinct. _See_ Spartianus in Pescennio. Salmas. In Jul. Capitolin. ]

[Footnote 5:

 Panis erat primis virides mortalibus Herbae; Quas tellus nullo sollicitante dabat. Et modo carpebant vivaci cespite gramen; Nunc epulæ tenera fronde cacumen erant. 

Ovid, Fastor. IV. ]

[Footnote 6: [Greek: kaloumen gar lachana ta ôros tên hêmeneranchreian], Theophrast. Plant. 1. VII. Cap. 7. ]

[Footnote 7: Gen. I. 29. ]

[Footnote 8: Plutarch Sympos. ]

[Footnote 9: Salmas. In Solin. _against_ Hieron. Mercurialis. ]

[Footnote 10: Galen. 2R. Aliment. Cap. L. Et Simp. Medic. Averroes, lib. V. Golloc. ]

[Footnote 11: Plin. Lib. XIX. C. 4. ]

[Footnote 12: Convictus facilis, fine arte mensa. Mart. Ep. 74. ]

[Footnote 13: [Greek: Apuron trophui], _which_ Suidas _calls_ [Greek:lachana], Olera quæ cruda sumuntur ex Aceto. Harduin in loc. ]

[Footnote 14: Plin. H. Nat. _lib. Xix. Cap. 8. _]

[Footnote 15: _De_ R. R. _cap. Clvii_. ]

[Footnote 16: [Greek: 'Ephthos, dosikuos, apalos, aluôs, ourêtikos]. Athen. ]

[Footnote 17: Cucumis elixus delicatior, innocentior. Athenæus. ]

[Footnote 18: Eubulus. ]

[Footnote 19: In Lactuca occultatum à Venere Adonin cecinit_Callimachus_, quod Allegoricè interpretatus _Athenæus_ illuc referendumputat, quod in Venerem hebetiores fiant Lactucis vescentes assiduè. ]

[Footnote 20: Apud Sueton. ]

[Footnote 21: Vopiseus Tacit. _For the rest both of the Kinds andVertues_ of Lettuce, _See_ Plin. H. Nat. _l. Xix. C. 8. And xx. C. 7_. Fernel. &c. ]

[Footnote 22: De Legib. ]

[Footnote 23: _Hor_. Epod. II. ]

[Footnote 24: De Simp. Medic. L. Vii. ]

[Footnote 25: _Lib. _ ii. _cap. _ 3. ]

[Footnote 26: Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi Villica Malvas Attulit, &varias, quas habet hortus, Opes. 

_Mart. Lib. X. _

_And our sweet Poet_:

 ----Nulla est humanior herba, Nulla magis suavi commoditate bona est, Omnia tam placidè regerat, blandéquerelaxat, Emollítque vias, nec sinit esse rudes. 

Cowl. _Plan. _ L. 4. ]

[Footnote 27: Cic _ad Attic_. ]

[Footnote 28: Sueton _in Claudi. _]

[Footnote 29: Sen. Ep. Lxiii. ]

[Footnote 30: Plin. N. H. _l. Xxi_. C. 23. ]

[Footnote 31: Transact. Philos. _Num. _ 202. ]

[Footnote 32: Apitius, _lib. Vii. Cap. 13_. ]

[Footnote 33: Philos. Transact. _Num. _ 69. _Journey to_ Paris. ]

[Footnote 34: Pratensibus optima fungis Natura est: aliis male creditur. _Hor. Sat. L. 7. Sat. 4. _]

[Footnote 35: Bacon _Nat. Hist. _ 12. Cent. Vii. 547, 548, &c. ]

[Footnote 36: Gaffend. _Vita Peirs. _ l. Iv. Raderus _Mart. _ l. Epig. Xlvi. In ponticum--_says, within four Days_. ]

[Footnote 37: O Sanctas gentes, quibus haec nascuntur in hortisNumina****---- _Juv. Sat. 15. _]

[Footnote 38: Herodotus. ]

[Footnote 39: [Greek: hôra to rhadiôs phaines], quia tertio à fatu dieappareat. ]

[Footnote 40: De diaeta _lib. _ ii. _cap. _ 25. ]

[Footnote 41: De Aliment. Facult. _lib. _ ii. ]

[Footnote 42: _Philos. Transact. _ Vol. Xvii. Num. 205. P. 970. ]

[Footnote 43: _Plin. _ H. Nat. Lib. Xix. Cap. 3. & xx. C. 22. See Jo. Tzetzes Chil. Vi. 48. & xvii. 119. ]

[Footnote 44: Spanheim, De usu & Praest. Numis. Dissert. 4to. _It wassometimes also the Reverse_ of Jupiter Hammon. ]

[Footnote 45: [Greek: oud an eidoiês ge moi] [Greek: Ton plouton auton k- to Bat-ou silphion]. _Aristoph_. In Pluto. Act. Iv. Sc. 3. ]

[Footnote 46: _Of which some would have it a courser sort_ inamoeniodoris, _as the same Comedian names it in his_ Equites, _p. 239. And240_. Edit. Basil. _See likewise this discuss'd, together with itsProperties, most copiously, in_ Jo. Budaeus _a_ Stapul. _Comment. In_Theophrast. Lib. Vi. Cap. 1. _and_ Bauhin. _Hist. Plant. _ lib. Xxvii. Cap. 53. ]

[Footnote 47: Vide _Cardanum_ de usu Cibi. ]

[Footnote 48: _Vol. _ xx. ]

[Footnote 49: Cowley:

 [Greek: Oud oson in malachê te k- asphodelô meg oneiar] [Greek: Krupsantes gar echousi theoi Bion anthrôpoisi. ] Hesiod. ]

[Footnote 50: _Concerning this of Insects, See Mr. _ Ray's _Hist. Plant. Li. L. Cap. 24_. ]

[Footnote 51: _The poyson'd Weeds: I have seen a Man, who was sopoyson'd with it, that the Skin peel'd off his Face, and yet he nevertouch'd it, only looked on it as he pass'd by_. _Mr. _ Stafford, _Philos. Transact. _ Vol. III. Num. Xl. P. 794. ]

[Footnote 52: Cowley, _Garden_, Miscel. Stanz. 8. ]

[Footnote 53: Sapores minime Consentientes [Greek: kai sumpleko-uasouchi symphônous haphas]: Haec despicere ingeniosi est artificis:_Neither did the Artist mingle his Provisions without extraordinaryStudy and Consideration_: [Greek: Alla mixas panta kata symphônian]. Horum singulis seorsum assumptis, tu expedito: Sic ego tanquam Oraculojubeo. ----Itaque literarum ignarum Coquum, tu cum videris, & quiDemocriti scripta omnia non perlegerit, vel potius, impromptu nonhabeat, eum deride ut futilem: Ac ilium Mercede conducito, qui EpicuriCanonen usu plane didicerit, _&c. As it follows in the_ Gastronomia _of_Archestratus, Athen. Lib. Xxiii. _Such another_ Bragadoccio Cook Horace_describes_

 Nec sibi Coenarum quivis temere arroget artem Non prius exacta tenui ratione saporem. _Sat. Lib. Ii. Sat. 4. _]

[Footnote 54: Milton's _Paradise Lost_. ]

[Footnote 55:

 ---- Qui Tingat olus siccum muria vaser in calice emptâ Ipse sacrum irrorans piper ---- Pers. _Sat. _ vi. ]

[Footnote 56: _Dr. _ Grew, Lect. Vi. C. 2. 3. ]

[Footnote 57: _Muffet_, de Diaeta, _c. _ 23. ]

[Footnote 58: _Dr. _ Grew, _Annat. Plant. _ Lib. L. Sect. Iv. Cap. L, &c. _See also_, Transact. _Num. _ 107. _Vol. _ ix. ]

[Footnote 59: _Philosoph. Transact. _ Vol. III. Num. Xl. P. 799. ]

[Footnote 60: Mart. _Epig. Lib. _ xi. 39. ]

[Footnote 61: Athen. L. 2. _Of which Change of Diet see_ Plut. Iv. _Sympos. _ 9. Plinii _Epist. _ I. _ad Eretrium. _]

[Footnote 62: Virg. _Moreto_. ]

[Footnote 63: Hor. _Sat. I. 2. Sat. 4. _]

[Footnote 64: Mart. _Ep. L. _ v. _Ep. 17_. ]

[Footnote 65: _Concerning the Use of Fruit (bessides many others)whether best to be eaten before, or after Meals? Published by aPhysician of_ Rochel, _and render'd out of_ French _into_ English. _Printed by_ T. Basset _in_ Fleetstreet. ]

[Footnote 66: Achilles, Patroclus, Automedon. _Iliad. Ix. & alibi_. ]

[Footnote 67: _For so some pronounce it_, V. Athenaeum Deip. _Lib. _ II. _Cap. _ 26 [Greek: êd-] quasi [Greek: êdusma], _perhaps for that itincites Appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the best Sauce_. ]

[Footnote 68: Cratinus in Glauco. ]

[Footnote 69: Nat. Hist. IV. _Cent. _ VII. 130. Se Arist. Prob. _Sect. _xx. _Quaest. _ 36. _Why some Fruits and Plants are best raw, othersboil'd, roasted_, &c, _as becoming sweeter; but the Crude more sapid andgrateful_. ]

[Footnote 70: Card. _Contradicent_. Med. L. Iv. _Cant. _ 18. Diphilus_not at all_. Athenaeus. ]

[Footnote 71: _Sir_ Tho. Brown's _Miscel. _]

[Footnote 72: Caule suburbano qui ficcis crevit in agris Dulcior, ----Hor. _Sat. _ l. 2. Section 4. ]

[Footnote 73: Transact. Philos. _Num. _ xxv. ]

[Footnote 74: _Num. _ xviii. ]

[Footnote 75: _Thesaur. Sanit. _ c. 2. ]

[Footnote 76: _As_ Delcampius _interprets the Place_. ]

[Footnote 77: Scaliger ad Card. Exercit. 213. ]

[Footnote 78: _Cel. _ Lib. Cap. 4. ]

[Footnote 79: Plin. _Nat. Hist. L. 3. C. 12. _]

[Footnote 80: Hanc brevitatem Vitae (_speaking of Horses_) fortassehomini debet, _Verul. Hist. _ Vit. & Mort. _See this throughlycontroverted_, Macrob. _Saturn. _ l. Vii. C. V. ]

[Footnote 81: Arist. _Hist. Animal. L. _ v. _c. _ 14. ]

[Footnote 82: [Greek: anomoia sasiazei]. ]

[Footnote 83: Hor. _Sat. L. _ II. _Sat. _ 2. Macr. _Sat. L. _ VII. ]

[Footnote 84: Gen. Ix. ]

[Footnote 85: Metam. I. Fab. Iii. _and_ xv. ]

[Footnote 86: Gen. Xi. 19. ]

[Footnote 87: Gen. Ix. ]

[Footnote 88: _Porphyr. _ de Abstin. _Proclum_, _Jambleum_, &c. ]

[Footnote 89: Strom, vii. ]

[Footnote 90: Praep. Lv. Passim. ]

[Footnote 91: Tertul. _de Tejun. _ cap. Iv. Hieron. _advers. _ Jovin. ]

[Footnote 92: Sen. _Epist. _ 108. ]

[Footnote 93: 1 _Cor. _ viii. 8. 1. _Tim. _ iv. 1. 3. 14. _Rom. _ ii. 3. ]

[Footnote 94:

 Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundis Et coenæ ingentis tune caput ipsa sui. Semide unque meo creverunt corpora succo, Materiam tanti sanguinis ille dedit. Tune neque fraus nota est, neque vis, neque foeda libido; Hæc nimis proles sæva caloris erat. Si sacrum illorum, sit detestabile nomen, Qui primi servæ regne dedere gulæ. Hinc vitiis patefacta via est, morbisq; secutis sas, Se lethi facies exeruere novæ. Ah, fuge crudeles Animantum sanguine men Quasque tibi obsonat mors inimica dapes. Poscas tandem æger, si sanus negligis, herbas. Esse cibus nequeunt? at medicamen erunt. _Colci_ Plaut. Lib. 1. Lactuca. ]

[Footnote 95: Gen. Ix. ]

[Footnote 96: Ancyra xiv. ]

[Footnote 97: Can. Apost. 50. ]

[Footnote 98: Clem. Paedag. _Lib. _ ii. C. L. _Vide_ Prudent. _Hymn_. [Greek: cha thêmerinôn]: Nos Oloris Coma, nos siliqua facta leguminemultitudo paraveris innocuis Epulis. ]

[Footnote 99: xv. _Acts_, 20, 29. ]

[Footnote 100: _Philo_ de Vit. Contemp. _Joseph_. Antiq. _Lib. _ 13_Cap. _ 9. ]

[Footnote 101: _Hackwell_. Apolog. ]

[Footnote 102: Hippoc. De vetere Medicina, Cap. 6, 7. ]

[Footnote 103: 2 _Tim. _ iv. 3. ]

[Footnote 104: _This, with their prodigious Ignorance_. _See_ Mab. DesEtudes Monast. _Part. _ 2. C. 17. ]

[Footnote 105: _Dr. _ Lister's _Journey to_ Paris. _See L'Apocalyps_ deMeliton, _ou Revelation des Mysteres Cenobitiques_. ]

[Footnote 106: Plantarum usus latissimè patet, & in omni vitæ parteoccurrit, sine illis lautè, sine illis commodè non vivitur, ac necvivitur omninò. Quæcunque ad victu necessaria sunt, quæcunque addelicias faciunt, è locupletissimo suo penu abundè subministrant: Quantòex eis mensa innocentior, mundior, salubrior, quam ex animalium cæde &Laniena! Homo certè naturâ animal carnivorum non est; nullis ad prædam &rapinam armis instructum; non dentibus exertis & ferratis, non unguibusaduncis: Manus ad fructos colligendos, dentes ad mandendos comparati;nee legimus se ante diluvium carnes ad esum concessas, &c. _Raii Hist. Plant. Lib. _ 1. _cap. _ 24. ]

[Footnote 107: Mart. _lib. _ x. _Epig. _ 44. ]

[Footnote 108: Barl. _Eleg. Lib. _ 3. ]

[Footnote 109: Athen. Deip. _l. _ i. ]

[Footnote 110: Cowley, _Garden. Stanz. _ 6. ]

[Footnote 111: _Hence in_ Macrobius Sat. Lib. Vii. C. 5. _we find_Eupolis _the Comedian in his_ æges, _bringing in Goats boasting theVariety of their Food, _ [Greek: Boskometh ulês apo pantodaôês, elatês], &c. _After which follows a Banquet of innumerable sorts_. ]

[Footnote 112: Esa. Lxv. 25. ]

[Footnote 113: Bina tunc jugera populo Romano satis erat, nulliquemajorem modum attribuit, quo servos paulo ante principis Neronis, contemptis hujus spatii Virdariis, piscinas juvat habere majores, gratumque, si non aliquem & culinas. _Plin. Hist. Nat. Lib. _ xviii. _c. _ 2. ]

[Footnote 114: Interea gustus elements per omnia quaerunt. _Juv. Sat. 4. _]

[Footnote 115: Cicero. _Epist. _ Lib. 7. _Ep. _ 26. _Complaining of acostly Sallet, that had almost cost him his Life_. ]

[Footnote 116: Valeriana, _That of_ Lectucini, Achilleia, Lysimachia, Fabius, Cicero, Lentulus, Piso, &c. A Fabis, Cicere, Lente, Pisis beneserendis dicti, _Plin. _]

[Footnote 117: Mirum esset non licere pecori Carduis vesci, non licetplebei, &c. _And in another Place_, Quoniam portenta quoque terrarum inganeam vertimus, etiam quæ refugeant quadrupeded consciæ, _Plin. _ Hist. Nat. L. Xix. C. 8. ]

[Footnote 118: Gra. Falisc. _Gyneget_. Was. _See concerning this Excess_Macr. _Sat. L. 2. C. 9. _ & sequ. ]

[Footnote 119: Horti maximè placebant, quia non egerent igni, parceréntque ligno, expedita res, & parata semper, unde _Acetaria_appellantur, facilia concoqui, nee oneratura sensum cibo, & quæ minimeaccenderent desiderium panis. _Plin. Hist. Nat. Lib. _ xix. _c. _ 4. _Andof this exceeding Frugality of the_ Romans, _till after the_ Mithridatic_War, see_ Athenæus Deip. Lib. 6. Cap. 21. Horat. _Serm. Sat. _ 1. ]

[Footnote 120: Nequam esse in domo matrem familias (etenim hæc curaFoeminæ dicebatur) ubi indiligens esset hortus. ]

[Footnote 121: Alterum succidium. _Cic. _ in _Catone_. Tiberias _had aTribute of_ Skirrits _paid him_. ]

[Footnote 122: Hor. _Sat. L. 2. _ Vix prae vino sustinet palpebras, euntiin consilium, &c. _See the Oration of_ C. _Titius_ de Leg. Fan. Mac_Sat. L. 2. C. 12. _]

[Footnote 123: Milton's _Paradise_, 1. V. Ver. 228. ]

[Footnote 124:

 At victus illa ætas cui secimus aurea nomen Fructibus arboreis, & quas humus educat herbis Fortunata fuit. ----_Met. Xv. _]

[Footnote 125: Bene moratus venter. ]

[Footnote 126: TAB. II. ]

[Footnote 127:

 Foelix, quem misera procul ambitione remotum, Parvus ager placide, parvus & hortus, alit. Præbet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit, Hortus habet quicquid luxuriosa petit, Cætera follicitæ speciosa incommoda vitæ Permittit stultis quærere, habere malis. _Cowley_, Pl. Lib. Iv. ]

[Footnote 128: Plin. Athenæus, Macrobius, Bacon, Boyle, Digby, _&c. _]

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_An Edition of one thousand copies was designed by Richard Ellisand printed under his supervision at The Haddon Craftsmen, Camden, New Jersey_. 

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