A Yacht Voyage Round England, by W. H. G. Kingston. 

________________________________________________________________________This is a most remarkable book, copiously illustrated with interestingengravings. A young boy and his brother are sent home early from theirboarding-school, because of illness among the pupils. Their father is aretired captain in the Royal Navy, who has had a beautiful yacht built. He suggests that the family should spend this lengthened summer holidaysailing round England. This means sailing round the southern part ofScotland, passing through the Caledonian Canal. 

The boys were instructed to keep journals, in which they were to noteeverything that took their interest. This is Kingston's vehicle fordelivering to us an excellent story, full of comments on the places theyvisited or passed by. Your reviewer has sailed much of the same route, and can vouch for the intrinsic truth of the descriptions, after makingallowance for the hundred years between our voyages. 

We have tried to bring you the illustrations, though reduced in size, and therefore you will get the best flavour of the book from the htmlversion. 

________________________________________________________________________A YACHT VOYAGE ROUND ENGLAND, BY W. H. G. KINGSTON. 

CHAPTER ONE. 

THE START. 

We had come home from school much earlier than usual, on account ofillness having broken out there; but as none of the boys weredangerously ill, and those in the infirmary were very comfortable, wewere not excessively unhappy. I suspect that some of us wished thatfever or some other sickness would appear two or three weeks before allthe holidays. 

However, as we had nothing to complain of at school, this, I confess, was a very unreasonable wish. 

The very day of our arrival home, when we were seated at dinner, and mybrother Oliver and I were discussing the important subject of how wewere to spend the next ten or twelve weeks, we heard our papa, who is aretired captain of the Royal Navy--and who was not attending to what wewere talking about--say, as he looked across the table to mamma:

"Would you object to these boys of ours taking a cruise with me roundEngland this summer?"

We pricked up our ears, you may be sure, to listen eagerly to the reply. Looking at Oliver, then at me, she said:

"I should like to know what they think of it. As they have never beforetaken so long a cruise, they may get tired, and wish themselves homeagain or back at school. "

"Oh no, no! we should like it amazingly. We are sure not to get tired, if papa will take us. We will work our passage; will pull and haul, andlearn to reef and steer, and do everything we are told, " said Oliver. 

"What do you say about the matter, Harry?" asked papa. 

"I say ditto to Oliver, " I replied. "We will at all events _try_ to beof use;" for I knew from previous experience that it was only when theweather was fine, and we were really not wanted, that we were likely tobe able to do anything. 

"Then I give my consent, " said mamma; on which we both jumped up andkissed her, as we had been accustomed to do when we were little chaps;we both felt so delighted. 

"Well, we shall be sorry to be away from you so long, " said Oliver, whenwe again sat down, looking quite grave for a moment or two. "But then, you know, mamma, you will have the girls and the small boys to lookafter; and we shall have lots to tell you about when we come back. "

"I cannot trust to your remembering everything that happens, " saidmamma. "When I gave my leave I intended to make it provisional on yourkeeping a journal of all you see and do, and everything interesting youhear about. I do not expect it to be very long; so you must make itterse and graphic. Oliver must keep notes and help you, and onecomplete journal will be sufficient. "

"That's just the bargain I intended to make, " said papa. "I'll look outthat Harry keeps to his intentions. It is the most difficult matter toaccomplish. Thousands of people intend to write journals, and breakdown after the first five or six pages. "

On the morning appointed for the start a little longer time than usualwas spent in prayer together, a special petition being offered that ourHeavenly Father would keep us under His protection, and bring us safelyhome again. Soon afterwards we were rattling away to Waterloo Station, with our traps, including our still blank journals, our sketch-books, fishing-rods, our guns, several works on natural history, bottles andboxes for specimens, spy-glasses, and lots of other things. 

Papa laughed when he saw them. "It would not do if we were going tojoin a man-of-war; but we have room to stow away a good number of thingson board the Lively, although she is little more than thirty-five tonsburden. "

In a quarter of an hour the train started for Southampton; and away weflew, the heat and the dust increasing our eagerness to feel the freshsea-breezes. 

"Although the Lively can show a fast pair of heels, we cannot go quiteso fast as this, " said papa, as he remarked the speed at which we dashedby the telegraph posts. 

On reaching the station at Southampton, we found Paul Truck, thesailing-master of the cutter, or the captain, as he liked to be called, waiting for us, with two of the crew, who had come up to assist incarrying our traps down to the quay. There was the boat, her crew inblue shirts, and hats on which was the name of the yacht. The men, whohad the oars upright in their hands while waiting, when we embarked letthe blades drop on the water in smart man-of-war style; and away wepulled for the yacht, which lay some distance off the quay. 

"I think I shall know her again, " cried Oliver: "that's her, I'mcertain. "

Paul, who was pulling the stroke oar, cast a glance over his shoulder, and shaking his head with a knowing look, observed:

"No, no, Master Oliver; that's a good deal bigger craft than ours. She's ninety ton at least. You must give another guess. "

"That's the Lively, though, " I cried out; "I know her by her beauty andthe way she sits on the water. "

"You're right, Master Harry. Lively is her name, and lively is hernature, and beautiful she is to look at. I'll be bound we shall notfall in with a prettier craft--a finer boat for her size. "

Paul's encomiums were not undeserved by the yacht; she was everything hesaid; we thought so, at all events. It was with no little pride that westepped on deck. 

Papa had the after-cabin fitted up for Oliver and me, and he himself hada state cabin abaft the forecastle. There were besides four open berthsin which beds could be made up on both sides of the main cabin. Theforecastle was large and airy, with room for the men to swing theirhammocks, and it also held a brightly polished copper kitchen range. 

Everything looked as neat and clean "as if the yacht had been kept in aglass case, " as Paul observed. 

Papa, having looked over the stores, took us on shore to obtain a numberof things which he found we should require. We thus had an opportunityof seeing something of the town. 

The old walls of Southampton have been pulled down, or are crumblingaway, the most perfect portion being the gateway, or Bar Gate, in theHigh Street. On either side of it stand two curious old heraldicfigures, and beside them are two blackened pictures--one representingSir Bevis of Hampton, and the other his companion, Ascapart. Sir Bevis, who lived in the reign of Edgar, had a castle in the neighbourhood. Itis said he bestowed his love on a pagan lady, Josian, who, having beenconverted to Christianity, gave him a sword called Morglay, and a horsenamed Arundel. Thus equipped he was wont to kill four or five men atone blow. Among his renowned deeds were those he performed against theSaracens, and also his slaughter of an enormous dragon. 

The extensive docks at the mouth of the river Itchen, to the east of thetown, have, of course, greatly increased its wealth. We saw amagnificent foreign-bound steamer coming out of the docks. The WestIndia ships start from here, as do other lines of steamers running tothe Cape, and to various parts of the world; so that Southampton is abustling seaport. There is another river to the west of the town, called the Test; and that joining with the Itchen at the point where thetown is built, forms the beautiful Southampton Water. 

But perhaps the most interesting fact about Southampton is that IsaacWatts, the Christian poet, was born here in 1671. The house in FrenchStreet is still standing, and we went to look at it. There he passedhis play-days of childhood; there the dreamy, studious boy stored up hisfirst spoils of knowledge; there he wrote his first hymns; and thitherhe went to visit his parents, when he himself was old and famous. Wealso went to see the remains of Saint Michael's Gaol, in which Watts'father had been confined for his nonconformity. And as we looked on theold prison we thanked God that nowadays, in England at least, religiouspersecution is unknown. 

When we returned on board, we noticed with surprise on each side of theriver what had the appearance of green fields, over which the water hadjust before flowed; they were, however, in reality mud flats covered bylong sea-weed. 

Soon after tea we turned into our berths, feeling very jolly and quiteat home, though Oliver did knock his head twice against the deck above, forgetting the size of our bedroom. We lay awake listening to the waterrippling by, and now and then hearing the step of the man on watchoverhead; but generally there was perfect silence, very different fromthe noise of London. 

We were both dressed and on deck some time before papa next morning, foras the tide was still flowing, and there was no wind, he knew that wecould not make way down the river. So we had time for a dive and a swimround the vessel, climbing on board again by means of a short ladderrigged over the side. 

Soon after this we saw a few of the other vessels hoisting their sails;and then Captain Truck, Oliver, and I pulled and hauled until we got ourmainsail set. The men then washed down the decks, though really therewas no dirt to wash away, and we tried, as we had promised, to makeourselves useful. 

When papa appeared he looked pleased at our being so hard at work. Asthere was just then a ripple on the water, he ordered the anchor to begot up; and it being now full tide, we began, almost imperceptibly, toglide away from among the other vessels. On the right was the edge ofthe New Forest, in which William Rufus was killed; although I believethat took place a good way off, near Lyndhurst; and very little of theeastern side of the forest now remains. 

On the left we passed Netley Abbey, a very pretty, small ruin, and nearit a large military hospital and college, where medical officers of thearmy study the complaints of the troops who have been in tropicalclimates. On the opposite side, at the end of a point stretching partlyacross the mouth of the water, we saw the old grey, round castle ofCalshot, which was built to defend the entrance, but would be of littleuse in stopping even an enemy's gunboat at the present day. However, papa said there are very strong fortifications at both ends of theSolent, as the channel here is called. No enemy's gunboat could everget through, much less an enemy's fleet; at any rate, if they did, hehoped they would never get out again. 

Some way to the left of Calshot rose the tall tower of Eaglehurst amongthe trees. The wind was from the west. We stood away towardsPortsmouth, as papa wished to visit an old friend there, and to give usan opportunity of seeing that renowned seaport as well. We caught aglimpse of Cowes, and Osborne to the east of it, where the Queenfrequently resides, and the town of Ryde, rising up on a hill surroundedby woods, and then the shipping at Spithead, with the curiouscheese-shaped forts erected to guard the eastern entrance to the Solent. 

Papa told us that these curious round forts, rising out of the sea, arebuilt of granite; that in time of war they are to be united by a line oftorpedoes and the wires of electric batteries. They are perfectlyimpregnable to shot, and they are armed with very heavy guns, so that anenemy attempting to come in on that side would have a very poor chanceof success. 

As we were anxious to see them, we had kept more in mid-channel than weshould otherwise have done. We now hauled up for Portsmouth Harbour. Far off, on the summit of the green heights of Portsdown Hill, we couldsee the obelisk-shaped monument to Nelson, an appropriate landmark insight of the last spot of English ground on which he stepped beforesailing to fight the great battle of Trafalgar, where he fell. We couldalso trace the outline of a portion of the cordon of forts--twenty milesin length--from Langston Harbour on the east to Stokes' Bay on the west. Along the shores, on both sides of the harbour, are two lines offortifications; so that even should a hostile fleet manage to get by thecheese-like forts, they would still find it a hard matter to set fire tothe dockyard or blow up the Victory. That noble old ship met our sightas, passing between Point Battery and Block House Fort, we entered theharbour. 

She did not look so big as I expected, for not far off was the Duke ofWellington, which seemed almost large enough to hoist her on board; andnearer to us, at the entrance of Haslar Creek, was the gallant old SaintVincent, on board which papa once served when he was a midshipman. Welooked at her with great respect, I can tell you. Think how old shemust be. She has done her duty well, --she has carried the flag ofEngland many a year, and now still does her duty by serving as a ship inwhich boys are trained for the Royal Navy. 

Further up, in dim perspective, we saw ships with enormousyellow-painted hulls; noble ships they were, with names allied toEngland's naval glory. They were all, however, far younger than theSaint Vincent, as we discovered by seeing the apertures in theirstern-posts formed to admit screws. Some fought in the Black Sea, others in the Baltic; but papa said "that their fighting days are nowdone, though they are kept to be employed in a more peaceful manner, either as hospital ships or training-schools. "

Shortening sail, we came to an anchor not far from the Saint Vincent, among several other yachts. On the Gosport side we could see across theharbour, away to the dockyard, off the quays of which were clustered anumber of black monsters of varied form and rig. Papa said--thoughotherwise we could not have believed it--"that there were amongst themsome of the finest ships of the present navy. " I could hardly fancythat such ships could go to sea, for they are more like gigantic coalbarges with strong erections on their decks, than anything else afloat. 

Of course I cannot tell you all our adventures consecutively, so shalldescribe only some of the most interesting. We first visited the SaintVincent, which, as we had just left our little yacht, looked very fineand grand. Papa was saying to one of the officers that he had served onboard her, when a weather-beaten petty officer came up, and with a smileon his countenance touched his hat, asking if papa remembered TomTrueman. Papa immediately exclaimed, "Of course I do, " and gave himsuch a hearty grip of the hand that it almost made the tears come intothe old man's eyes with pleasure, and they had a long yarn about days ofyore. After this papa met many old shipmates. It was pleasant to seethe way in which he greeted them and they greeted him, showing how muchhe must have been beloved, which, of course, he was; and I'll venture tosay it will be a hard matter to find a kinder or better man. I'm surethat he is a brave sailor, from the things he has done, and the cool wayin which he manages the yacht, whatever is happening. 

After we had finished with the Saint Vincent we went on board theVictory, which looks, outside, as sound as ever she did--a fine, bluffold ship; but when we stepped on her deck, even we were struck by herancient appearance, very unlike the Saint Vincent, and still more unlikethe Duke of Wellington. There was wonderfully little ornamental orbrass work of any sort; and the stanchions, ladders, and railings wereall stout and heavy-looking. 

Of course we looked with respect on the brass plate on her deck whichmarks the spot where Nelson fell. We then went far down into themidshipmen's berth, in the cockpit. How dark and gloomy it seemed; andyet it was here Nelson, while the guns were thundering overhead, laydying. How very different from the mess-rooms of young officers of thepresent day! Here another inscription, fixed on the ship's side, pointed out where the hero breathed his last. Going into the cabin onthe main deck, we saw one of the very topsails--riddled with shot--whichhad been at Trafalgar. After being shifted at Gibraltar, it had beenfor more than half a century laid up in a store at Woolwich, no oneguessing what a yarn that old roll of canvas could tell. 

We also saw an interesting picture of the "Death of Nelson, " and anotherof the battle itself. We felt almost awe-struck while seeing thesethings, and thinking of the gallant men who once served on board thatnoble ship. Papa said that he hoped, if the old ship is not wanted forpractical purposes, that she may be fitted up exactly as she was atTrafalgar. 

We afterwards called on an old lady--a friend of papa--who told us thatshe clearly recollected going off from Ryde in a boat with her fatherand mother, and pulling round the Victory when she arrived fromGibraltar at Spithead, on the 4th of December, 1805, with the body ofNelson on board. In many places the shot were still sticking in hersides, her decks were scarcely freed from blood, and other injuriesshowed the severity of the action. 

After this, the Victory was constantly employed until the year 1812, from which time she was never recommissioned for sea; but from 1825until within a few years ago, she bore the flags of the port-admirals ofPortsmouth. 

Late in the evening we crossed the harbour to the dockyard, where papawanted to pay a visit. A curious steam ferry-boat runs backwards andforwards between Portsmouth and Gosport. We passed a number of largeships coated with thick plates of iron; but even the thickest cannotwithstand the shots sent from some of the guns which have been invented, and all might be destroyed by torpedoes. We could hardly believe thatsome of the ships we saw were fit to go to sea. The most remarkable wasthe Devastation. Her free-board--that is, the upper part of her sides--is only a few feet above the water. Amidships rises a round structuresupporting what is called "a hurricane-deck. " This is the only spotwhere the officers and men can stand in a sea-way. At either end is acircular revolving turret containing two thirty-five ton guns, constructed to throw shot of seven hundred pounds. These guns areworked by means of machinery. 

Contrasting with the ironclads, we saw lying alongside the quays severalenormous, white-painted, richly-gilt troop-ships, also iron-built, whichrun through the Suez Canal to India. The night was calm and still; andas we pulled up the harbour a short distance among the huge ships, Icould not help fancying that I heard them talking to each other, andtelling of the deeds they had done. Papa laughed at my poetical fancy, which was put to flight when he told me that scarcely any of them, except those which were engaged in the Baltic and Black Sea, had seenany service. 

Pulling down the harbour on the Gosport side, to be out of the way ofpassing vessels, we soon reached the yacht, feeling very tired, for wehad been wide awake for the last sixteen hours. As we sat in our littlecabin, it was difficult to realise that outside of us were so manyobjects and scenes of interest connected with the naval history ofEngland. Papa told us a number of curious anecdotes. Not many hundredyards from us, about a century ago, was to be seen a gibbet on BlockHouse Point, at the west entrance of the harbour, on which hung the bodyof a man called Jack the Painter. Having taken it into his very sillyhead that he should forward the cause of freedom by burning thedockyard, he set fire to the rope-house, which was filled with hemp, pitch, and tar. Jack, having performed this noble deed, escaped fromthe yard, and was making his way along the Fareham Road, when, havingasked a carter to give him a lift, he pointed out the cloud of smokerising in the distance, observing that he "guessed where it came from. "The carter went his way; but shortly afterwards, when a hue and cry wasraised, he recollected his passenger, who was traced, captured, tried, and executed. 

Another story we heard was about the mad pranks played by naval officersin days of yore. At that time, a sentry-box, having a seat within, stood on the Hard, at Portsmouth, so that the sentry could sit down andrest himself. It happened that a party of young captains andcommanders, coming down from dinner to embark, found the sentry at hispost, but drunk and sound asleep in his box! Punishment was his due. They bethought themselves of a mode of astonishing him. Summoning theircrews, box and sentry were carried on board one of their boats andtransported to Gosport, and then placed in an upright position facingthe water. When the relief came to the spot where the sentry wasoriginally stationed, what was their astonishment and alarm to findneither sentry nor box! The captain of the guard reported thecircumstance to the fort-major. "The enemy, " he averred, "must be athand. "

The garrison was aroused, the drawbridges were hauled up. Daylightrevealed the box and the position of the sentry, who protested that, although as sober as a judge, he had no idea how he had been conveyedacross the harbour. 

Numerous "land-sharks" used to be in waiting to tempt those who weregenerally too ready to be tempted into scenes of debauchery and vice. This state of things continued until a few years ago, when it was putinto the heart of a noble lady--Miss Robinson--to found an institute forsoldiers and sailors. There they may find a home when coming on shore, and be warned of the dangers awaiting them. After great exertion, andtravelling about England to obtain funds, she raised about thirteenthousand pounds, and succeeded in purchasing the old Fountain Hotel, inthe High Street, which, greatly enlarged, was opened in 1874 as aSoldiers' and Sailors' Institute, by General Sir James Hope Grant. 

Dear me, I shall fill up my journal with the yarns we heard atPortsmouth, and have no room for our adventures, if I write on at thisrate. After our devotions, we turned in, and were lulled to sleep, aswe were last night, by the ripple of the water against the sides of theyacht. 

CHAPTER TWO. 

IN THE SOLENT. 

Next morning, soon after breakfast, we went on shore to pay a visit tothe dockyard. On entering, papa was desired to put down his name; andthe man seeing that he was a captain in the navy, we were allowed to goon without a policeman in attendance, and nearly lost ourselves amongthe storehouses and docks. As we walked past the lines of lofty sheds, we heard from all directions the ringing clank of iron, instead of, asin days of yore, the dull thud of the shipwright's mallet, and saw theground under each shed strewed with ribs and sheets of iron ready to befixed to the vast skeletons within. Papa could not help sighing, andsaying that he wished "the days of honest sailing ships could come backagain. " However, he directly afterwards observed, "I should be sorry toget back, at the same time, the abuses, the wild doings, and theprofligacy which then prevailed. Things have undoubtedly greatlyimproved, though they are bad enough even now. "

Tramways and railways, with steam locomotives, run in all directions. Formerly, papa said, the work was done by yellow-coated convicts withchains on their legs. They have happily been removed from the dockyarditself, and free labourers only are employed. Convicts, however, arestill employed in various extensive public works. 

Of course we visited Brunel's block machinery, which shapes from therough mass of wood, with wonderful accuracy and speed, the polishedblock fit for use. Huge lathes were at work, with circular saws anddrills, sending the chips of wood flying round them with a whizzing andwhirring sound. So perfect is the machinery that skilled artisans arenot required to use it. Four men only are employed in making theshells, and these four can make with machinery as many as fifty mencould do by hand. On an average, nineteen men make one hundred andfifty thousand blocks in the course of the year. 

Leaving the block house, we went to the smithy, where we saw Nasmyth'ssteam hammer, which does not strike like a hammer, but comes downbetween two uprights. On one side is a huge furnace for heating thematerial to be subjected to the hammer. Papa asked the manager to placea nut under it, when down came the hammer and just cracked the shell. He then asked for another to be placed beneath the hammer, when itdescended and made but a slight dent in the nut. 

Soon afterwards a huge mass of iron, to form an anchor, was drawn out ofthe furnace; then down came the hammer with thundering strokes, beatingand battering it until it was forced into the required shape, while thesparks flying out on all sides made us retreat to a safer distance. 

One of the largest buildings in the dockyard is the foundry, which isconsidered the most complete in the world. We looked into the sheds, asthey are called, where the boilers for the ships are constructed, andcould scarcely hear ourselves speak, from the noise of hammers drivingin the rivets. Many of the boilers were large enough to form good-sizedrooms. We walked along the edge of the steam basin. It is nine hundredfeet long and four hundred broad. The ships, I should have said, arebuilt on what are called the building slips, which are covered over withhuge roofs of corrugated iron, so that the ships and workmen areprotected while the building is going forward. 

Before leaving we went into the mast-house, near the entrance to theyard. Here we saw the enormous pieces of timber intended to be builtinto masts--for masts of large ships are not single trees, but composedof many pieces, which are bound together with stout iron hoops. Herealso were the masts of ships in ordinary. They would be liable to decayif kept on board exposed to the weather. Each mast and yard is markedwith the name of the ship to which it belongs. The masts of the oldVictory are kept here, the same she carried at Trafalgar. Not far offis the boat-house, where boats from a large launch down to the smallestgig are kept ready for use. 

We looked into the Naval College, where officers go to study a varietyof professional subjects. When papa was a boy the Naval College wasused as the Britannia now is--as a training-school for naval cadets. Finding an officer going on board the Excellent--gunnery ship--weaccompanied him. We were amused to find that the Excellent consists ofthree ships moored one astern of the other, and that not one of them isthe old Excellent, she having been removed. Our friend invited us toaccompany him on board an old frigate moored a little way up theharbour, from which we could see some interesting torpedo experiments. 

As we pulled along he gave us an explanation of the fish torpedo--awonderful instrument of destruction which has been invented of lateyears. It is a cylinder, which carries the explosive material at oneend and the machinery for working the screw which impels it at theother. It can be discharged through a tube with such accuracy that itcan strike an object several hundred yards off. On getting on board theold frigate, we found a large party of officers assembled. We were towitness the explosion of two other sorts of torpedoes. One was used bya steam launch, the fore part of which was entirely covered over by aniron shield. The torpedo was fixed to the end of a long pole, carriedat the side of the launch. At some distance from the ship a huge caskwas moored, towards which the launch rapidly made her way. The pole, with the torpedo at the end, was then thrust forward; the concussionignited it the instant it struck the cask and blew it to fragments. 

Another launch then approached a large cask floating with one end out ofthe water, to represent a boat. An officer stood up with a little ballof gun-cotton in his hand, smaller than an orange, to which was attacheda thin line of what is called lightning cotton, the other end beingfastened to a pistol. As the launch glided on he threw the ball intothe cask. The boat moved away as rapidly as possible, when the pistolbeing fired, in an instant the cask was blown to atoms. What a fearfuleffect would have been produced had the innocent-looking little ballbeen thrown into a boat full of men instead of into a cask!

Another experiment with gun-cotton was then tried. A piece not largerthan a man's hand was fastened to an enormous iron chain fixed on thedeck of the ship. We were all ordered to go below, out of harm's way. Soon afterwards, the gun-cotton having been ignited by a train, we hearda loud report; and on returning on deck we found that the chain had beencut completely in two, the fragments having flown about in alldirections. 

The chain of a boat at anchor was cut by means of a piece of gun-cottonfixed to it, and ignited by a line of lightning cotton fired from one ofthe launches. This showed us how the chain-cable of a ship at anchormight be cut; while a torpedo boat might dash in, as she was driftingaway with the tide and the attention of her officers was engaged, toblow her up. 

The chief experiments of the day were still to come off. We saw anumber of buoys floating in various directions some way up the harbour. A launch advanced towards one, when the buoy being struck by the pole, the charge of a torpedo some twenty yards away was ignited, and thefearful engine exploding, lifted a huge mass of water some thirty orforty yards into the air. How terrible must be the effects when such amachine explodes under a ship! As soon as the torpedoes had exploded, the boats pulled up to the spot, and picked up a large number of fishwhich had been killed or stunned by the concussion--for many did notappear to be injured, and some even recovered when in the boats. 

Papa, though very much interested, could not help saying that he wasthankful these murderous engines of war had not been discovered in histime. It is indeed sad to think that the ingenuity of people should berequired to invent such dreadful engines for the destruction of theirfellow-creatures. When will the blessings of the gospel of peace beuniversally spread abroad, and nations learn war no more?

We next pulled over to the Gosport side, to visit the Royal ClarenceVictualling Establishment, which papa said was once called Weovil. Hereare stored beef and other salted meats, as well as supplies andclothing; but what interested us most was the biscuit manufactory. Itseemed to us as if the corn entered at one end and the biscuits came outat the other, baked, and all ready to eat. The corn having been ground, the meal descends into a hollow cylinder, where it is mixed with water. As the cylinder revolves a row of knives within cut the paste intoinnumerable small pieces, kneading them into dough. This dough is takenout of the cylinder and spread on an iron table, over which enormousrollers pass until they have pressed the mass into a sheet two inchesthick. These are further divided and passed under a second pair ofrollers, when another instrument cuts the sheets into hexagonalbiscuits, not quite dividing them, however, and at the same timestamping them with the Queen's mark and the number of the oven in whichthey are baked. Still joined together, they are passed into the ovens. One hundredweight of biscuits can be put into one oven. 

On the Gosport side we went over some of the forts, which are of greatextent. The longest walk we took was to Portsdown Hill, for the sake ofvisiting the Nelson Monument. On it is an inscription:--

 To the Memory of Lord Viscount Nelson. By The Zealous Attachment Of All Those Who Fought At Trafalgar--To Perpetuate His Triumph And Their Regret. Mdcccv. 

We had a magnificent view from the top of the monument, lookingcompletely over Gosport, Portsmouth, and Southsea, with the harbour atour feet, and taking in nearly the whole line of the Isle of Wight, withthe Solent, and away to the south-east, Saint Helen's and the EnglishChannel. Later on we pulled five miles up the harbour, to PorchesterCastle, built by William the Conqueror. For many centuries it was thechief naval station of the kingdom, modern Portsmouth having sprung upin the reign of Henry the First, in consequence of Porchester Harbourfilling with mud. 

It was here, during the war with Napoleon, that several thousands ofFrench prisoners were confined, some in the castle, and others on boardthe bulks. They, of course, did not like to be shut up, and manyattempting to escape were suffocated in the mud. They were but scantilysupplied with provisions, though they were not actually starved; but aFrench colonel who broke his parole wrote a book, affirming that on oneoccasion an officer who came to inspect the castle, having left hishorse in the court-yard, the famished prisoners despatched the animal, devouring it on the spot; and, by the time the owner returned, thestirrup-irons and bit alone remained!

Portsmouth is a very healthy place, although from its level position itmight be supposed to be otherwise. It has a wide and handsome HighStreet, leading down to the harbour. 

The Fountain, at the end of the High Street, no longer exists as an inn, but has been converted by Miss Robinson into a Soldiers' and Sailors'Institute. We went over the whole establishment. At the entrance arerooms where soldiers and sailors can see their friends; and then thereis a large bar, where, although no intoxicating drinks can be obtained, tea, coffee, and beverages of all sorts are served. Near it is a largecoffee-room. Passing through the house, we entered a very nice garden, on the right of which there is a bowling-green and a skittle-alley; andwe then came to a very handsome hall which serves for religiousmeetings, lectures, concerts, teas, and other social gatherings. Therewere also rooms in which the men can fence or box. A large reading-room(with a good library) and Bible-classroom are on the second floor; andat the top of the house are dormitories, making up a considerable numberof beds for soldiers, as also for their wives and families, who may bepassing through Portsmouth either to embark or have come from abroad. There is a sewing-room for the employment of the soldiers' wives. AChildren's Band of Hope meets every week. There is even a smoking-roomfor the men, and hot or cold baths. Indeed, a more perfect place forthe soldier can nowhere be found. Miss Robinson herself resides in thehouse, and superintends the whole work, of which I have given but a veryslight description. I should say that this most energetic lady has alsosecured several houses for the accommodation of soldiers' families, whowould otherwise be driven into dirty or disreputable lodgings. 

Another philanthropist of whom Portsmouth is justly proud is JohnPounds, who though only a poor shoemaker, originated and superintendedthe first ragged school in the kingdom. Near the Soldiers' Institute isthe John Pounds' Memorial Ragged School, where a large number of poorchildren are cared for. It is very gratifying to know that many of ourbrave soldiers and sailors are also serving under the great Captain ofour salvation, and fighting the good fight of faith, helped in so doingby good servants of God. 

The town of Portsmouth was until lately surrounded by what were calledvery strong fortifications; but the new works have rendered themperfectly useless, and they are therefore being dismantled--a greatadvantage to the town, as it will be thrown open to the sea-breezes. 

A light breeze from the eastward enabled us to get under weigh just atsunrise, and to stem the tide still making into the harbour. Sometimes, however, we scarcely seemed to go ahead, as we crept by Block House Fortand Point Battery on the Portsmouth side. 

Once upon a time, to prevent the ingress of an enemy's fleet, a chainwas stretched across the harbour's mouth. We had got just outside theharbour when we saw a man-of-war brig under all sail standing in. Abeautiful sight she was, her canvas so white, her sides so polished!--onshe stood, not a brace nor tack slackened. Papa looked at her with theaffection of an old sailor. It was an object which reminded him of hisyounger days. "You don't see many like her now, " he observed. Presently, as she was starting by us, a shrill whistle was heard. Likemagic the sails were clewed up, the hands, fine active lads--for she wasa training vessel--flew aloft, and lay out on the yards. While we werelooking, the sails were furled; and it seemed scarcely a momentafterwards when we saw her round to and come to an anchor not far fromthe Saint Vincent. "That's how I like to see things done, " said papa. "I wish we had a hundred such craft afloat; our lads would learn to bereal seamen!"

He and Paul were so interested in watching the brig, that for the momenttheir attention was wholly absorbed. As we got off the Southsea pier webegan to feel the wind coming over the common; and being able to makebetter way, quickly glided by the yachts and small vessels anchored offit, when we stood close to one of those round towers I have described, and then on towards Spithead. 

Spithead is so called because it is at the end of a spit or point ofsand which runs off from the mainland. We passed close over the spotwhere the Royal George, with nine hundred gallant men on board, foundered in August, 1782. She was the flag-ship of AdmiralKempenfeldt. He was at the time writing in his cabin, where he was lastseen by the captain of the ship, who managed to leap out of a stern portand was saved, as was the late Sir Philip Durham, port-admiral ofPortsmouth, then one of the junior lieutenants. The accident happenedfrom the gross negligence and obstinacy of one of the lieutenants. Inorder to get at a water-cock on the starboard side, the ship had beenheeled down on her larboard side, by running her guns over until thelower deck port-sills were just level with the water. Some casks of rumwere being hoisted on board from a lighter, bringing the ship still moreover. The carpenter, seeing the danger, reported it to the lieutenantof the watch, who at first obstinately refused to listen to him. Asecond time he went to the officer, who, when too late, turned the handsup to right ship, intending to run the guns back into their formerplaces. The weight of five or six hundred men, however, going over tothe larboard side completely turned the hitherto critically balancedscale; and the ship went right over, with her masts in the water. Thesea rushing through her ports quickly filled her, when she righted andwent down, those who had clambered through the ports on her starboardside being swept off. Two hundred out of nine hundred alone were saved. Among these was a midshipman only nine years old, and a little childfound fastened on to the back of a sheep swimming from the wreck. Hecould not tell the names of his parents, who must have perished, andonly knew that his name was Jack, so he was called John Lamb. None ofhis relatives could be found, and a subscription was raised and peopletook care of him, and having received a liberal education, he entered anhonourable profession. 

Some years ago the remains of the ship were blown up by Sir C. Pasley, and many of the guns recovered. Close to the spot, in the days of bluffKing Harry, the Mary Rose, after an action with a French ship, went downwith her gallant captain, Sir George Carew, and all his men, while hiscrew were attempting to get at the shot-holes she had received. 

In 1701, the Edgar, 74 guns, which had just arrived from Canada, blewup; her crew and their friends were making merry when they, to thenumber of eight hundred, miserably perished. 

While at anchor here also, the Boyne, of 91 guns, caught fire. Allefforts to put out the flames were unavailing; but the greater number ofher crew escaped in boats. As she drifted from Spithead towardsSouthsea, her guns continued to go off, until touching the shore, sheblew up with a tremendous explosion. 

The ships at Spithead now are of a very different appearance from thoseformerly seen there. Among them was the Minotaur, which, in consequenceof her great length, is fitted with five masts. Just as we were passingher she got under weigh, papa said, in very good style; and certainly, when all her canvas was set, she looked a fine powerful sea-going craft. 

The Devastation came out of the harbour, and stood on towards SaintHelen's. She certainly looked as unlike our notions of a man-of-war asanything could be, though, as Paul Truck observed, "she would crumple upthe Minotaur in a few minutes with her four thirty-five ton guns, powerful as the five-masted ship appears. "

Though she looked only fit for harbour work, Paul said that she had beenout in heavy weather, and proved a fair sea-boat. The only place thatpeople live on, when not below, is the hurricane-deck. In this centrestructure are doorways which can be closed at sea. They lead down intothe cabins below, as well as to the hurricane-deck, out of which risethe two funnels and an iron signal-mast. This is thick enough to enablea person to ascend through its inside to a crow's-nest on the top, whichserves as a look-out place. From it also projects the davits forhoisting up the boats. On the hurricane-deck stands the captain'sfighting-box, cased with iron. Here also is the steering apparatus andwheel. When in action, all the officers and men would be sent belowexcept the helmsmen, who are also protected, with the captain and alieutenant, and the men inside the turrets working the guns. These areso powerful that they can penetrate armour six inches thick at thedistance of nearly three miles. 

We brought-up for a short time at the end of Ryde Pier, as papa wishedto go on shore to the club. The pier-head was crowded with people whohad come there to enjoy the sea-breeze without the inconvenience ofbeing tossed about in a vessel. The town rises on a steep hill from theshore, with woods on both sides, and looks very picturesque. To thewest is the pretty village of Binstead, with its church peeping outamong the trees. 

We were very glad, however, when papa came on board, and we got underweigh to take a trip along the south coast of the island. The wind andtide suiting, we ran along the edge of the sand-flats, which extend offfrom the north shore, passing a buoy which Paul Truck said was called"No Man's Land. " Thence onwards, close by the Warner lightship. 

As we wanted to see a lightship, the yacht was hove-to, and we wentalongside in the boat. She was a stout, tub-like, Dutch-built-lookingvessel, with bow and stern much alike, and rising high out of the water, which is very necessary, considering the heavy seas to which she is attimes exposed. The master, who knew Paul Truck, was very glad to seeus, and at once offered to show us all over the vessel. 

The light was in a sort of huge lantern, now lowered on deck; but atnight it is hoisted to the top of the mast, thirty-eight feet above thewater, so that it can be seen at a distance of eight miles. It is whatis called a reflecting light. I will try and describe it. 

Within the lantern are a certain number of lights and reflectors, eachsuspended on gimbals, so that they always maintain their perpendicularposition, notwithstanding the rolling of the vessel. Each of theselights consists of a copper lamp, placed in front of a saucer-shapedreflector. The lamp is fed by a cistern of oil at the back of thereflector. This being a revolving light, a number of reflectors werefixed to the iron sides of a quadrangular frame, and the whole caused torevolve once every minute by means of clockwork. The reflectors on eachside of the revolving frame--eight in number--are thus successivelydirected to every point in the horizon; and the combined result of theirrays form a flash of greater or less duration, according to the rapidityof their revolution. In the fixed lights eight lamps and reflectors areused, and are arranged in an octagonal lantern; they do not differ muchin appearance from the others. 

The master told us that the invention was discovered very curiously. Anumber of scientific gentlemen were dining together at Liverpool--ahundred years ago--when one of the company wagered that he would read anewspaper at the distance of two hundred feet by the light of a farthingcandle. The rest of the party said that he would not. He perhaps hadconceived the plan before. Taking a wooden bowl, he lined it withputty, and into it embedded small pieces of looking-glass, by whichmeans a perfect reflector was formed; he then placed his rushlight infront of it, and won his wager. Among the company was Mr WilliamHutchinson, dock-master of Liverpool, who seizing the idea, made use ofcopper lamps, and formed reflectors much in the same way as thegentleman before mentioned. 

Everything about the ship was strong, kept beautifully clean, and in themost admirable order. The crew consists of the captain and mate, withtwelve or fourteen men, a portion of whom are on shore off duty. Thelife is very monotonous; and the only amusement they have is fishing, with reading and a few games, such as draughts and chess. They had onlya small library of books, which did not appear very interesting. Papaleft them a few interesting tracts and other small books, and gave thema short address, urging them to trust to Christ, and follow His examplein their lives. They listened attentively, and seemed very grateful. They have a large roomy cabin, and an airy place to sleep in. Thecaptain has his cabin aft, besides which there is a large space used asa lamp-room, where all the extra lamps and oil and other thingspertaining to them are kept. They seemed happy and contented; but whena heavy gale is blowing they must be terribly tossed about. Of coursethere is a risk--although such is not likely to occur--of the vesselbeing driven from her moorings. In case this should happen, they havesmall storm sails, and a rudder to steer the vessel. When this doeshappen it is a serious matter, not only to those on board, but stillmore so to any ships approaching the spot, and expecting to findguidance from the light. 

Standing on, we passed close to the Bembridge or Nab Light-vessel. Thisvessel carries two bright fixed lights, one hoisted on each of hermasts, which can be seen at night ten miles off, and of course it can bedistinguished from the revolving Warner light. Farther off to the west, at the end of a shoal extending off Selsea Bill, is another lightship, called the Owers. 

Having rounded Bembridge Ledge, we stood towards the white Culvercliffs, forming the north side of Sandown Bay, with lofty downs risingabove Bembridge. Near their summits are lines of fortifications, extending westward to where once stood Sandown Castle, near which thereis now a large town, although papa said he remembered when there wasonly a small inn there, with a few cottages. On the very top of thedowns is a monument erected to Lord Yarborough, the king of yachtsmen, who died some years ago on board his yacht, the Kestrel, in theMediterranean. He at one time had a large ship as his yacht, on boardwhich he maintained regular naval discipline, with a commander, andofficers who did duty as lieutenants. It was said that he offered tobuild and fit out a frigate, and maintain her at his own expense, if thegovernment would make him a post-captain off-hand, but this theydeclined to do. 

Standing across the bay, we came off a very picturesque spot, calledShanklin Chine, a deep cut or opening in the cliffs with trees on bothsides. Dunnose was passed, and the village of Bonchurch and Ventnor, climbing up the cliffs from its sandy beach. We now sailed along whatis considered the most beautiful part of the Isle of Wight, --theUndercliff. This is a belt of broken, nearly level ground, more or lessnarrow, beyond which the cliffs rise to a considerable height, withvalleys intervening; the downs in some places appearing above them. This belt, called the Undercliff, is covered with trees and numerousvillas. 

At last we came off Rocken End Point, below Saint Catherine's Head. This is the most southern point of the island. On it stands a handsomestone tower, 105 feet high, with a brilliant fixed light upon it. Thevillage of Niton stands high up away from the shore. 

It now came on to blow very fresh. There was not much sea in theoffing; but, owing to the way the tide ran and met the wind, the bottombeing rocky, the water nearer the shore was tossed about in a mostcurious and somewhat dangerous fashion, for several "lumps of sea, " asTruck called them, came flop down on our deck; and it was easy to seewhat might be the consequences if an open boat had attempted to passthrough the Race. Paul told us that good-sized vessels had been seen togo down in similar places. One off Portland is far worse than this inheavy weather. 

Farther on is a curious landslip, where a large portion of the cliffonce came down, and beyond it is Blackgang Chine, a wild, savage-lookingbreak in the cliffs, formed by the giving way of the lower strata. Farther to the west, towards Freshwater Gate, the cliffs areperpendicular, and of a great height, the smooth downs coming to theirvery edge. 

Some years ago a picnic party, who had come over from Lymington, hadassembled on that part of the downs, having come by differentconveyances. Among them was a boy, like one of us--a merry fellow, Idare say. After the picnic the party separated in various directions. When the time to return had arrived, so many went off in one carriage, and so many in another. In the same way they crossed to Lymington indifferent boats. Not until their arrival at that place was their youngcompanion missed, each party having supposed that he was with the other. What could have become of him? They hoped against hope that he hadwandered far off to the east, and had lost his way. Then some of theparty recollected having seen him going towards the edge of the cliff. He was a stranger, and was not aware how abruptly the downs terminatedin a fearful precipice. It was too late to send back that night. Theystill hoped that he might have slipped down, and have lodged on someledge. At daybreak boats were despatched to the island. At length hismangled remains were found at the foot of the highest part of the cliff, over which he must have fallen and been dashed to pieces. Papa said herecollected seeing the party land, and all the circumstances of thecase. 

Here, too, several sad shipwrecks have occurred, when many lives havebeen lost. A few years ago, two ladies were walking together during aheavy gale of wind, which sent huge foaming billows rolling on towardsthe shore. One, the youngest, was nearer the water than the other, whenan immense wave suddenly broke on the beach, and surrounding her, carried her off in its deadly embrace. Her companion, with a courageand nerve few ladies possess, rushed into the seething water, andseizing her friend, dragged her back just before the hungry surge boreher beyond her depth, Papa gave us these anecdotes as we gazed on theshore. We had intended going completely round the island; but the windchanging, we ran back the way we had come, thus getting a second sightof many places of interest. 

It was dark before we reached the Nab; but steering by the lights I havedescribed, we easily found our way towards the anchorage off Ryde. Atlength we sighted the bright light at the end of the pier, and we keptit on our port-bow until we saw before us a number of twinkling lightshoisted on board the yachts at anchor. It was necessary to keep a_very_ sharp look-out, as we steered our way between them, until we cameto an anchorage off the western end of the pier. 

The next morning, soon after daybreak, when we turned out to enjoy aswim overboard, we saw, lying close to us, a fine sea-going littleschooner, but with no one, excepting the man on watch, on deck. We hadhad our dip, and were dressing, when we saw a boy spring up through thecompanion hatch, and do just what we had done--jump overboard. 

"I do declare that must be Cousin Jack!" cried Oliver. "We willsurprise him. "

In half a minute we had again slipped out of our clothes, and were inthe water on the opposite side to that on which the schooner lay. Wethen swam round together; and there, sure enough, we saw Jack's ruddycountenance as he puffed and blew and spluttered as he came towards us. 

"How do you do, Brother Grampus?" cried Oliver. 

In another moment we were all treading water and shaking hands, andlaughing heartily at having thus met, like some strange fish out in theocean. Greatly to our delight, we learned that the schooner we hadadmired was Uncle Tom Westerton's new yacht, the Dolphin; and Jack saidhe thought it was very likely that His father would accompany us, and hehoped that he would when he knew where we were going. 

This, of course, was jolly news. We could not talk much just then, aswe found it required some exertion to prevent ourselves being driftedaway with the tide. We therefore, having asked Jack to come andbreakfast with us, climbed on board again. He said that he would gladlydo so, but did not wish to tell his father, as he wanted to surprisehim. 

A short time afterwards, Uncle Tom Westerton poked his head (with anightcap on the top of it) up the companion hatchway, rubbing his eyes, yawning and stretching out his arms, while he looked about him as if hehad just awakened out of sleep. He was dressed in a loose pair oftrousers and a dressing-gown, with slippers on his feet. 

"Good morning to you, Uncle Tom!" shouted Oliver and I. 

"Hullo! where did you come from?" he exclaimed. 

"From Portsmouth last. This is papa's new yacht; and we are going tosail round England, " I answered. 

Just then papa, who had no idea that the Dolphin was close to us, cameon deck. The surprise was mutual. 

Uncle Tom and Jack were soon on board; and during breakfast it wassettled that we should sail together round England, provided papa wouldwait a day until uncle could get the necessary provisions and stores onboard; and in the mean time we settled to visit Beaulieu river andCowes, and at the latter place the Dolphin was to rejoin us next day. 

We, as may be supposed, looked forward to having great fun. We hadlittle doubt, although the Lively was smaller than the Dolphin, that wecould sail as fast as she could, while we should be able to get intoplaces where she could not venture. 

As soon as breakfast was over, while the Dolphin stood for Portsmouth toobtain what she wanted, we got under weigh, and steered for the mouth ofBeaulieu river. On our way we passed over the Mother Bank, a shoal offwhich vessels in quarantine have to bring up; and here are anchored twolarge mastless ships, --one for the officers and men of the quarantineguard, the other serving as a hospital ship. We next came off Osborne, where the Queen lives during the spring, --a magnificent-looking place, with trees round three sides, and a park-like lawn descending to thewater's edge. Before the Queen bought it, a good-sized private housestood here, belonging to a Mr Blackford, whose widow, Lady Isabella, sold it to Her Majesty. A small steam yacht lay off the land, ready tocarry despatches or guests. 

Bounding Old Castle Point, we opened up the harbour, and came in sightof the West Cowes Castle, and the handsome clubhouse, and a line ofprivate residences, with a broad esplanade facing the sea, and woodedheights rising above it; and beyond, looking northward, a number ofvillas, with trees round them and a green lawn extending to the water. The harbour was full of vessels of all descriptions, and a number offine craft were also anchored in the Roads. We thought Cowes a verypleasant-looking place. It was here that the first yacht club wasestablished. The vessels composing it are known _par excellence_ as the"Royal Yacht Squadron;" and a regatta has taken place here annually formore than half a century. Ryde, Southampton, and Portsmouth, indeednearly every seaport, has now its clubhouse and regatta. The chief areCowes, Ryde, Torquay, Plymouth, Cork, Kingston, and the Thames. Eachhas its respective signal flag or burgee. That of Cowes is white, ofRyde red, and most of the others are blue, with various devices uponthem. At Cowes, some way up the harbour, on the west side, are somelarge shipbuilding yards. Here a number of fine yachts and othervessels are built. Mr White, one of the chief shipbuilders, hasconstructed some fine lifeboats, which are capable of going through anyamount of sea without turning over; and even if they do so, they havethe power of righting themselves. He has built a number also to carryon board ships, and very useful they have proved on many occasions. Ships from distant parts often bring up in the Roads to wait for orders;others, outward-bound, come here to receive some of their passengers. Very frequently, when intending to run through the Needle passage, theywait here for a fair wind, so that the Roads are seldom without a numberof ships, besides the yachts, whose owners have their headquarters here, many of their families living on shore. 

We agreed, however, that we were better off on board our tight littleyacht, able to get under weigh and to go anywhere without having to waitfor our friends on shore. 

Leaving Cowes harbour on our port quarter, we stood for Leep Buoy, offthe mouth of the Beaulieu River. Hence we steered for the village ofLeep, on the mainland. Truck knowing the river well, we ran on until wecame to an anchor off the village of Exbury. Here it was thought saferto bring up, and proceed the rest of the distance in the boat. Theriver above Exbury becomes very narrow, and we might have got becalmed, or, what would have been worse, we might have stuck on the mud. 

We pulled up for some miles between thickly-wooded banks, --indeed, wewere now passing through a part of the New Forest. Suddenly the rivertook a bend, and we found ourselves off a village called Buckler's Hard. The river here expands considerably, and we saw two or three vessels atanchor. In the last great war there was a dockyard here, where a numberof frigates and other small men-of-war were built from the wood whichthe neighbouring forest produced. Now, the dockyard turns out only afew coasting craft. How different must have been the place when thesound of the shipwright's hammer was incessantly heard, to what it nowis, resting in the most perfect tranquillity, as if everybody in theneighbourhood had gone to sleep! No one was to be seen moving on shore, no one even on board the little coasters. Not a bird disturbed the calmsurface of the river. 

As it was important that we should be away again before the tide fell wepulled on, that we might land close to Beaulieu itself. The scenery waspicturesque in the extreme, the trees in many places coming down to thewater's edge, into which they dipped their long hanging boughs. Aboutsix miles off, the artist Gilpin had the living of Boldre, and here heoften came to sketch views of woodland and river scenery. We landednear the bridge, and walked on to see Beaulieu Abbey. Passing through agateway we observed the massive walls, which exist here and there almostentire, in some places mantled with ivy, and at one time enclosing anarea of sixteen acres or more. 

A short way off was a venerable stone building, now called the PalaceHouse, once the residence of the abbot, who being too great a man tolive with the monks, had a house to himself. When convents wereabolished, this was turned into a residence by the Duke of Montague, towhose family it had been granted. He enlarged and beautified it, enclosing it in a quadrangle with walls, having a low circular tower ateach angle, encompassed by a dry moat crossed by a bridge. The wholebuilding is now fitted up as a modern residence. 

A short distance to the east stands a long edifice, with lofty rooms, which was undoubtedly the dormitory, with large cellars beneath it. Atthe south end the ancient kitchen remains entire, with its vaulted stoneroof and capacious chimney, proving that the monks were addicted to goodcheer; indeed, the remains of the fish-ponds, or stews, not far off, show that this was the case. 

They also took care to supply themselves with fresh water, from a finespring issuing from a cave in the forest about half a mile away, whichwas conveyed to the abbey in earthen pipes. That they were not totalabstainers, however, is proved by the remains of a building evidentlyonce containing the means of manufacturing wines; and close to it, insome fields having a warm southern aspect, still called the Vineyards, grew their grapes. 

This abbey, indeed, stands on just such a spot as sagacious men, considering how best they might enjoy this world's comforts, wouldselect;--a gentle stream, an ample supply of water, a warm situation, extensive meadow and pasture land, sheltered from keen blasts by woodsand rising hills. The monastery was built, we are told, in the time ofKing John, by a number of Cistercian monks. A monkish legend, which, like most other monkish legends, is probably false, asserts that theabbots of that order being summoned by the king to Lincoln, expected toreceive some benefit, instead of which the savage monarch ordered themto be trodden to death by horses. None of his attendants were willing, however, to execute his cruel command. That night the king dreamed thathe was standing before a judge, accompanied by these abbots, who werecommanded to scourge him with rods. On awakening he still felt the painof his flagellation; and being advised by his father-confessor to makeamends for his intended cruelty, he immediately granted the abbots acharter for the foundation of the abbey. 

The monks, as usual, practising on the credulity of the people, grewrich, and obtained privileges and further wealth from varioussovereigns; while the Pope conferred on their monastery the rights of asanctuary, exemption from tithes, and the election of its abbot withoutthe interference of king or bishop. In 1539 there were within theirwalls thirty-two sanctuary men for debt, felony, and murder. Unpleasantguests the monks must have found them, unless a thorough reformation hadtaken place in their characters. 

Here Margaret of Anjou took shelter after the fatal battle of Barnet;and Perkin Warbeck fled hither, but being lured away, perished atTyburn. On the abolition of monasteries, Beaulieu Abbey was granted tothe Earl of Southampton, whose heiress married the Duke of Montague, from whom it descended to his sole heiress, who married the Duke ofBuccleuch. The family have carefully preserved the ruins, and preventedtheir further destruction. 

"The abbeys have had their day; but, after all, we cannot help holdingthem in affectionate remembrance for the service they rendered in theirgeneration, " observed Oliver, in a somewhat sentimental tone, which mademe laugh. 

"They may have done some good; but that good could have been obtained ina far better way, " said papa; "they were abominations from the first;and the life led by the monks was utterly at variance with that whichScripture teaches us is the right life to lead. We might as well regretthat Robin Hood and Dick Turpin do not now exist, because theyoccasionally behaved with generosity to the poor, and showed courtesy tothe ladies they robbed. The monasteries were the result of the knaveryof one class and the ignorance and superstition of another. Do not letthe glamour of romance thrown over them ever deceive or mislead you asto their real character. When we hear of the good they did, rememberthat the monks were their own chroniclers. We have only to see whatChaucer says of them, and the utter detestation in which they were heldby the great mass of the people, not only in Henry the Eighth's time, but long before, to judge them rightly. There are weak and foolishpeople, at present, urged on by designing men, who wish for theirrestoration, and have actually established not a few of these abominableinstitutions in our free England, where girls are incarcerated andstrictly kept from communicating with their friends, and where foolishyouths play the part of the monks of the dark ages. I am not afraid ofyour turning Romanists, my boys, but it is important to be guarded onall points. Just bring the monastic system to the test of Scripture, and then you will see how utterly at variance it is from the lessons welearn therein. "

We felt very nervous going down the river, for fear we should stick onthe mud, as the tide had already begun to ebb, and we might have beenleft high and dry in a few minutes; but, through Paul's pilotage andpapa's seamanship, we managed to avoid so disagreeable an occurrence, and once more passing the beacon at the mouth of the river, we steeredfor Cowes Roads, where we brought-up at dark. Next morning we saw theDolphin anchored not far from us. To save sending on board, we got outour signals, and the instruction book which enables us to make use ofthem. 

We first hoisted flags to show the number of the yacht in the club, andwaited until it was answered from the Dolphin. We next hoisted fournumbers without any distinguishing flag, which showed the part of thebook to which we referred, and meant, "Are you ready to sail?" This wasanswered by a signal flag which meant "Yes;" whereupon we ran up fourother numbers signifying, "We will sail immediately. "

As the Dolphin, which was to the east of us, began to get under weigh, we did so likewise; and she soon came close enough to enable us to carryon a conversation as we stood together to the westward. 

The shores both of the mainland and of the Isle of Wight are coveredthickly with woods, the former being portions of the New Forest, whichat one time extended over the whole of this part of Hampshire, fromSouthampton Water to the borders of Dorsetshire. On our left side wecould see high downs rising in the distance, the southern side of whichwe had seen when going round the back of the island. 

In a short time we came off Newton River, now almost filled up with mud. Some way up it is a village, which, once upon a time, was a town andreturned a member to parliament. The hull of a small man-of-war isanchored, or rather beached, on the mud near the mouth of the river, andserves as a coastguard station. 

The wind shifting, we had to make a tack towards the mouth of LymingtonCreek, which runs down between mud-banks from the town of Lymington, which is situated on the west side of the river. On a height, on theeast side, we could distinguish an obelisk raised to the memory ofAdmiral Sir Harry Burrard Neale. He was a great favourite of George theThird, as he was with all his family, including William the Fourth. Hewas a very excellent officer and a good, kind man, and was looked uponas the father of his crew. At the mouth of the river is a high postwith a basket on the top of it known as Jack-in-the-basket. Whether ornot a sailor ever did get in there when wrecked, or whether on someoccasion a real Jack was placed there to shout out to vessels cominginto the river, I am not certain. 

Passing the pleasant little town of Yarmouth, the wind once moreshifting enabled us to lay our course direct for Hurst Castle. Wepassed the village of Freshwater, with several very pretty villasperched on the hill on the west side of it. Here also is thecommencement of a line of batteries which extend alone: the shoretowards the Needles. The ground is high and broken, and verypicturesque, with bays, and points, and headlands. On our starboard, ornorthern side, appeared the long spit of sand at the end of which HurstCastle stands, with two high red lighthouses like two giant skittles. Besides the old castle, a line of immensely strong fortifications extendalong the beach, armed with the heaviest guns, so that from thebatteries of the two shores an enemy's ship attempting to enter would besunk, or would be so shattered as to be unable to cope with any vesselof inferior force sent against her. 

The old castle is a cheese-like structure of granite, and wasconsidered, even when it stood alone, of great strength. Its chiefhistorical interest is derived from its having been the prison ofCharles the First when he was removed from Carisbrook Castle. After thefailure of the treaty of Newport, Charles was brought from Carisbrook, which is almost in the centre of the Isle of Wight, to a small fortcalled Worsley Tower, which stood above Sconce Point, to the westward ofthe village of Freshwater. Here a vessel was in waiting, which carriedhim and a few attendants over to Hurst, where he was received by thegovernor, Colonel Eure, and kept under strict guard, though not treatedunkindly. From thence he was removed to Windsor, and afterwards toLondon, where his execution took place. 

As we were examining with our glasses the powerful line offortifications, both on the Hurst beach and along the shore of the Isleof Wight, papa remarked that he wished people would be as careful inguarding their religious and political liberties as they are in throwingup forts to prevent an enemy from landing on our shores. Many appear tobe fast asleep with regard to the sacred heritage we have received fromour forefathers, and allow disturbers of our peace and faith, undervarious disguises, to intrude upon and undermine the safeguards of oursacred rights and liberties. 

Presently we found ourselves in a beautiful little spot called Alum Bay. The cliffs have not the usual glaring white hue, but are striped withalmost every imaginable colour, the various tints taking a perpendicularform, ranging from the top of the cliff to the sea. If we could havetransferred the colours to our pallet, I am sure we should have foundthem sufficient to produce a brilliant painting. West of the colouredcliffs is a line of very high white cliffs, extending to the extremewest point of the island, at the end of which appear the Needle Rocks, rising almost perpendicularly out of the sea. Once upon a time two ofthem were joined with a hollow, or eye, between them, but that portiongave way at the end of the last century. On the outer rock, by scrapingthe side, a platform has been formed, on which stands a high andbeautifully-built lighthouse, erected some years ago. Formerly therewas one on the top of the cliff, but it was so high that it wasfrequently obscured by mist, and was not to be seen by vessels steeringfor the Needles passage. 

As we stood close into the shore, and looked up at the lofty cliffs, weagreed that it was the grandest and most picturesque scene we had yetvisited. 

On the other side of the channel are the Shingles, a dangerous sandbank, on which many vessels have been lost. A ledge of rocks below the waterruns off from the Needles, known as the Needle Ledge. When a strongsouth-westerly wind is blowing, and the tide is running out, there ishere a very heavy sea. Vessels have also been wrecked on the Needles;and Paul Truck told us how a pilot he once knew well saved the crew of avessel which drove in during the night on one of those rocks, which theyhad managed to reach by means of the top-gallant yard. Here theyremained until the pilot brought a stout rope, which was hauled up by athin line to the top of the rock, and by means of it they all descendedin safety. The pilot's name was John Long. 

Years before this a transport, with a number of troops on board, waswrecked just outside the Needles, in Scratchells Bay. Being high-water, she drove close in under the cliffs, and thus the sailors and crew wereable to escape; and the next morning the cliff appeared as thoughcovered with lady-birds, footprints of the poor fellows who had beenendeavouring to make their way up the precipitous sides. 

Further round is a large cavern, in which it is said a Lord Holmes--avery convivial noble and Governor of Yarmouth Castle--used to hold hisrevels with his boon companions. But were I to book all the stories weheard, I should fill my journal with them. 

When we were a short distance outside the Needles, a superb steamfrigate passed us with topsails and top-gallant sails set, steering downchannel. Papa looked at her with a seaman's eye. "Well--well, thoughshe is not as beautiful as an old frigate, she looks like a finesea-boat, and as well able to go round the world as any craft afloat, and to hold her own against all foes. "

Just at sunset, a light wind blowing, we took the bearings of theNeedles and Hurst lights, and stood for Swanage Bay, on the Dorsetshirecoast. 

CHAPTER THREE. 

THE SOUTH COAST. 

When we turned in, the yacht was speeding along with a gentle breezetowards Swanage. The Needle light showed brightly astern, and the twolights on Hurst Point were brought almost into one, rather more on ourquarter. Oliver and I wanted to keep watch, but papa laughed at us, andsaid we had much better sleep soundly at night, and be wide awake duringthe day; and that if anything occurred he would have us called. 

Though Oliver and I said we would get up once or twice, to show that wewere good sailors, we did not, but slept as soundly as tops untildaylight streamed through the small skylight overhead into our berths. 

We had now learned not to knock our skulls against the beams; and bothof us turning out slipped into our clothes, and thanked God for havingkept us safely during the night. On going on deck, what was oursurprise to find the Needle Rocks still in sight, with a high point ofland on our starboard beam, which Paul Truck told us was ChristchurchHead. 

It was a perfect calm, not a ripple played over the surface of thewater, the sails scarcely giving even a flap. Not far off lay theDolphin, equally motionless. The sun had not yet risen, but theatmosphere was perfectly clear, and we could see objects to a greatdistance. To the west of the head we observed a tower, which Truck toldus was that of the Priory; and from thence to Hurst we observed a lineof cliffs of considerable height, with several villages on their summit. 

We got out our mackerel lines, hoping to catch some fish for breakfast;but there was not way enough on the vessel to give the bait play, andnone would bite. Paul walked up and down whistling for a breeze; but itdid not come a bit the faster for that, as you may suppose. Sailorshave a notion--derived from some heathen custom--that by whistling thespirit of the wind will be propitiated. This is not surprising, when weremember that people on shore have a still greater number of foolishnotions derived from the same source. 

When papa came on deck, he told us that Sir Harry Burrard Neale, whocommanded the San Firenzo, was at school at Christchurch before he wentto sea, that on one occasion, when playing a game of "follow my leader, "he, being the leader, mounted to the top of the tower, and managed toscramble down again outside, few, if any, of the boys daring to followhim. 

The whole of the coast along which we were now sailing was in the daysof restrictive duties the scene of numberless smuggling transactions. The smugglers were a bold, daring race--one part accomplished seamen;the other, though accustomed to go afloat, possessors of small farms andholdings on shore. The goods, either spirits, tobacco, or silks, werebrought across generally in large powerful luggers, many of them inwar-time strongly armed; and when interfered with by the king's shipsthey often fought desperately, and managed to get away. The spot onwhich a cargo was to be landed was fixed on beforehand. Generally, several were chosen, so that should the Coastguard be on the watch nearone, the smugglers, warned by signals from the shore, might run toanother. There, a party of armed men, numbering some hundreds, would beready to receive them. As soon as the goods were landed, they werecarried up the cliffs on men's shoulders, and placed in light carts andwagons, which drove off with a mounted escort, who seldom failed to givebattle to the Revenue men if an attempt was made to stop them. Oftensevere fighting took place, and--except when a strong force of militarywere brought down upon them--the smugglers generally made their escape. The goods were either stowed away in secret places or farm-houses in theneighbourhood, or carried off to London, where they were handed over tothe wealthy firms which supplied the means for the trade. 

In later years the smuggling vessels were smaller and unarmed, thesmugglers trusting to their cunning for success. Sometimes only largeboats or galleys were employed, which pulled across the Channel, timingthemselves so as to reach the English coast some time after dark. If aRevenue cutter was seen approaching, the casks of spirits were loadedwith stones, and being thrown overboard, were sunk, the smuggler havingfirst taken the bearings of the land, so as to be able to return to thespot and drag for them. Sometimes the Revenue cutter saw what was done, and performed that operation instead of the smuggler, the officers andcrew thus obtaining a rich prize at slight cost. So enormous was theprofit, that if two or three cargoes out of seven were run, thesmugglers were content. 

Smuggling of any sort is of course illegal. The Government puts dutieson commodities for the good of the State, which duties must be paid, andthe smuggler is cheating not only the Government but his countrymen; yetmany people formerly did not see it in its true light, and even somegentlemen, blind to its dishonourable character, encouraged thesmugglers by buying their goods. Papa said that he remembered in hisboyish days a person of excellent position, knowing that a cargo was tobe run near his house, having invited the Revenue officers to dinner, made them all tipsy, and not letting them go until he was informed thatthe cargo was safe on shore. He received a portion as a reward for theservice he had rendered. The greatest knaves, however, were themerchants whose capital bought the goods and whose warehouses weresupplied by them. At one time the greater portion of the population ofthe sea-board of Hampshire and Dorsetshire were engaged more or less inthe trade. 

While we were at breakfast we heard the mainsail give a loud flap, andsoon afterwards a pleasant rippling sound told us that the yacht wasmoving through the water. In a short time we were close in with theshore, just off Bournemouth, a watering-place which has gainedconsiderable popularity during the last few years. 

We clearly saw a large number of houses and villas, with two churchesstanding on the side of the hill, backed by dark pine groves. A fewyears ago there were only a few cottages on a sandbank, a small stream, and a decoy pond in the neighbourhood. By keeping out of the tide wemade some way, and now standing to the southward on the port tack wecame off Poole Harbour, looking up which we could see the woods and ahouse on Branksea Island, and the tower of what was once a castleerected for the defence of the place. 

We were told that this island was purchased several years ago by acolonel who married a rich heiress. The place was believed to containvaluable clay and other productions; and a firm of bankers, havingbegged the colonel to become one of their directors, allowed him to drawwhatever amount he chose. Believing himself to be possessed ofunbounded wealth, he built a superb house and laid out the grounds insplendid style, giving all sorts of expensive entertainments. At lengththe bank broke, the bubble burst, and the unhappy man was reduced to theextreme of penury, while numbers of unfortunate people who had investedtheir money in the bank were ruined. 

We did not sail up the harbour; but Paul Truck told us that the town isof considerable size, and that it sends out a large number of tradingvessels. 

Passing two high white rocks rising out of the water, called Old Harryand his Wife, we stood on into Swanage Bay, where we brought-up just offthe little town. The boat was lowered, and we pulled to the end of thewooden pier, on which we landed; although Oliver said we could not callit landing, seeing that it was not land. However, we soon got on to theshore. As we looked about we agreed that it was one of the prettiestlittle places we had been in. 

To the left was a bright lawn, with trees here and there, and villasdotted about. Some houses extend along the shore to the right, while anold-fashioned looking street runs up the hill. We observed largequantities of slabs of stone, which are quarried from the hills in theneighbourhood. The ground beyond the town is completely burrowed, likea huge rabbit-warren, and near the mouth of each quarry are huts andsheds, where the stone, which is brought up in the rough, is worked intoshape. The men, instead of being blackened like coal-miners, arecovered with white dust. 

This portion of the country is called the Isle of Purbeck, although itis in reality a peninsula. It is bounded on the north by Poole Harbourand the river which passes Wareham, while the sea is on the two othersides; and a small river, called Luxford Lake, rises from some hills notfar from the south shore, so that the place is almost surrounded bywater. 

About six miles off is Corfe Castle, on a hill almost in the centre ofPurbeck Island. It is a picturesque ruin, and full of interestingassociations. It was here that Edward, the dupe of the wily Dunstan, was murdered in the year 979, at the instigation of Elfrida, the widowof Edgar, and Edward's mother-in-law, who wished to have her own son, poor "Ethelred the Unready, " upon the throne. A far more interestingevent connected with it was the defence made by Lady Bankes, the wife ofthe owner, in 1643, against the Parliamentary forces. It must have beenin those days a very strong place, for Lady Bankes, with her daughterand her maid-servants, assisted by five soldiers, successfully defendedthe middle ward against the attack of one of the storming divisions, thewhole defensive force not exceeding eighty men, unprovided with cannon. It would probably have fallen, however, had not Lord Carnarvon raisedthe siege. 

Near Swanage also, in the middle of an open heath, is the celebratedAggie Stone, or holy stone, though it is more generally known at presentas the Devil's Nightcap. It is a long stone poised on a single point. We agreed that it was something like a giant mushroom. The countrypeople say it was thrown from the Isle of Wight, with the intention ofdestroying Corfe Castle, but that, falling short, it descended where wefound it, on the top of the hill, eighty or ninety feet high. We couldnot decide whether it was placed here by art or Nature, for similarstones exist in other places where water and the atmosphere have clearedaway the surrounding earth. Papa was of opinion that it was formed bynatural causes. 

Getting under weigh from Swanage, we stood round Peveril Point andDurlestone Head. The wind being off shore, we kept close in with thecoast, which consists of high cliffs full of fossils, we were told. Aswe were passing Saint Alban's, or Saint Aldhelm's Head, we got out ourmackerel lines. We had half a dozen each, about forty fathoms long. Toeach line were fastened eight or ten snoods: a snood is a short linewith a hook at the end. At first we baited with pieces of white linen, as the mackerel is a greedy fish, and will bite at any glittering objectin the water. 

"Two lines overboard will be enough, or they will be fouling eachother, " observed Truck. 

Oliver took charge of one, I of the other. They had not been in thewater two minutes when Oliver cried out, "Hurrah, I've hooked a fish!"He was hauling in his line, when two more were seen skipping along onthe surface, glittering in the sunlight. At the same time I feltseveral tugs at my line, and on hauling it in I found that I had fourfish on--long, elegantly shaped fish they were, with blue grey backs andwhite bellies. In half an hour we had caught two dozen--more thanenough for all hands for supper and breakfast. 

The next morning, the wind having been very light, we ran into a littleharbour of rare beauty called Lulworth Cove. The entrance is verynarrow, with rugged abrupt cliffs rising far above the mast-head; andwhen we were once in we appeared to be in a perfect basin, the sidesconsisting of high white walls towering to the sky, with cottages in anopening on one side; while the sandy bottom could almost be seen throughthe tranquil water, clear as crystal. The cliffs consist of Portlandstone. The strata in some places have a curious appearance, resemblinghuge twisted trees. In one side are caves of various sizes, and herealso fossils in great numbers are found. Landing, we walked about twomiles to Lulworth Castle, belonging to Mr Edward Weld, the son of theowner of the celebrated yachts the Lulworth and Alarm. The castle is asquare-shaped building, with a tower at each corner; it has long, narrowwindows, and is handsomely fitted up. Both James the First and Charlesthe Second at different times inhabited it, as did several latersovereigns down to William the Fourth. It formerly belonged to CardinalWeld, who left it to his brother, the late owner. 

Though interested with what we saw on shore, we were always glad to geton board and enjoy the open sea. Sailing on, we in a short time reachedWeymouth Roads, and hove-to off the mouth of the river Wey, on bothsides of which the town is built, with a fine esplanade extending alongthe shore for a considerable distance. Good old King George the Thirdused to reside here in a house built by his brother, the Duke ofGloucester, now turned into the "Gloucester Hotel. " One object in hiscoming was to sail on board a frigate commanded by his favouritecaptain, Sir Harry Neale. 

The king frequently wanted to go much further out to sea than wasconsidered prudent. On such occasions the captain used to proposeeither whist or chess. As soon as His Majesty was observed to beabsorbed in the game, the ship was put about and headed back towards theshore. When the king got tired of playing, and was about to return ondeck, the ship's head was put off shore again. He either did not findout the trick played him, or was well aware that it was done for hisadvantage, and said nothing. The king and Sir Harry often played chesstogether, when the king, who played very badly, was generally beaten. Sometimes His Majesty played with some of the courtiers, on whichoccasions he was nearly always successful; when, however, the courtiersplayed with Sir Harry, they beat him. The king observing this, remarked, one day, with a smile:

"It does seem very odd, when I play with Sir Harry he beats me; whenLord So-and-So plays with him, he gets the worst of it; but when LordSo-and-So plays with me, I gain the day. Very strange--very strange. "

On one occasion the frigate was going from Portsmouth to Weymouth, whenshe was hailed by a boat which had come off from the shore. The captainhove-to, and an old Scotch couple came up the side. On the object oftheir visit being enquired, they stated that they had come all the wayfrom Scotland to look for their son, who was on board a man-of-war; andthat they had been at Portsmouth, and had searched for him in vain at anumber of other seaports. 

On asking the name, "David Campbell, " was the answer. Sir Harryenquired whether such a man was on board. "Yes, " was the reply. DavyCampbell being called, a fine youth made his appearance, who wasimmediately recognised by the old couple, and received a fond embrace. 

The captain carried them to Weymouth, where the king, hearing theirstory, spoke to them kindly, and made them a handsome present; while SirHarry promised to look after their boy; and they went home rejoicing inthe success of their efforts to see him once more. I hope he promisedto write to them in future, and to let them know of his welfare, andthat he got back to Scotland again to see them before they died. 

The king used to speak to the officers and men in the kindest way, andfrequently to call up the young midshipmen and give them fatherlyadvice. Papa's father was a midshipman on board, so that he had heard agreat deal about the king and Queen Charlotte. 

One day Sir Harry, who had months before received a present of bottledgreen peas, recollecting them, ordered them to be prepared for dinner. On the queen being helped, Sir Harry, who had forgotten when green peaswere in season, observed to Her Majesty, "These peas have been in bottlea whole year. "

"So I did think, " answered the queen, pressing one of them with herfork, and sending it flying out of her plate and hitting His Majesty onthe nose. They were almost as hard as swan-shot. In those days the wayof preserving vegetables was not so well understood as at present. 

The king was often sadly ill-treated, according to his own account, bythose in authority, and would complain amusingly about trifles. Onegrievance was that he never had the satisfaction of wearing soft linen, for that as soon as his shirts had worn smooth they were taken away, andtheir places supplied with new harsh ones. So that, after all, sovereigns are not more free from the discomforts of life than are otherpeople!

We heard these anecdotes as we were standing towards Portland Harbour, formed by a magnificent breakwater of granite, which runs out from theshore to the east, and then circles round with an opening about thecentre. It was built to form a harbour of refuge, as no other existsalong the coast which can be entered at all times between the Needlesand Plymouth. 

We were struck by the enormous blocks of stone of which it isconstructed. They were all quarried from the Isle of Portland, whichforms one side of the harbour, by convicts who are confined in a largestone prison at the top of the hill. Both on the breakwater and onshore are strong stone forts for the defence of the harbour, in which, in time of war, would also be stationed some heavy ironclads; so that alarge squadron alone would venture to annoy the shipping within. 

The yachts brought-up, and we went on shore to walk along the breakwaterand to inspect some of the fortifications. Near us were two enormousironclads; and as we pulled by them we could not help remarking whatmagnificent-looking craft they appeared, though Uncle Tom said that hewould just as soon go round the world in the Dolphin as he would in oneof those huge monsters. 

A railway is laid along the top of the breakwater to carry stones andguns to the further end. Papa told us that some years ago, while it wasin the course of construction, he came to see it; that as he was lookingtowards the end he perceived an engine coming along. He stepped on oneside to avoid it, when, as it drew near, he observed the driver making asignal to him. He had just time to spring on to a wooden platform atthe edge, when another engine, coming from the opposite direction, passed over the spot on which he had been standing. In an instant hewould have been crushed to death. "How grateful did I feel to God thatI had been thus mercifully preserved!" he said. 

At the outer end of the breakwater there is a lighthouse, with a singlefixed red light, so that it cannot be mistaken for any other of theneighbouring lights. At the end of the south pier-head of WeymouthHarbour is also a single red fixed light; but it is far away to thenorthward of the breakwater light, and cannot be seen at any greatdistance. 

The Portland Breakwater is indeed a magnificent work. The plans weredesigned by Mr Rendel, and the estimated cost was six hundred thousandpounds. The first stone was laid by Prince Albert, in July, 1849. Thewhole length is nearly a mile and a half. It first runs out from theIsle of Portland for 1, 800 feet, when it is finished by a circular headof solid masonry. Then, for about four hundred feet, there is anopening through which vessels may enter or run to sea in case ofnecessity. Then comes another circular head similar to the first, fromwhich the principal part of the breakwater extends in the same straightline for about three hundred feet, and then curves round to the northfor 5, 400 feet. It was formed--in the first instance--by extendingstages in the direction required, on which rails were laid down tosupport the stone-wagons pushed by locomotives to the outer end. Thewagons, on reaching their destination, were tilted up, and the stonedropped down to the bottom. Thus the work was continued gradually untilthe outer end was reached. The stones after they were thrown down wereplaced in the required position by divers, who worked with crowbars. Adangerous employment it must have been. A man employed on thebreakwater who accompanied us told us that on one occasion the air-pipeburst, and that, although the diver immediately gave the signal, when hewas hauled up he was nearly dead. Another poor fellow did not answerthe tug, which a man in a boat above gave every half-minute. When hewas hauled in it was found that the water had run under the joints ofhis helmet and drowned him. There were five lines of rail laid down, each carrying trucks pushed by locomotives. We were told that 2, 500tons of stone were by this means dropped every day into the ocean; andthough thus actively working, it was long before the artificial rockappeared above the surface. 

Sometimes several weeks passed, load after load being dropped in, beforethe mass was of sufficient size to rise above the water. After havingbeen left some time to consolidate, the summit was capped by blocks ofhewn stone, rising from low-tide mark to many feet above that ofhigh-water, so that the sea during the fiercest gale could not force itsway over it. The piles to support the stage were what are called screwpiles; they were ninety feet in length, and soaked in creosote topreserve them, the weight of each being about seven tons. One of themost curious operations was that of forcing the creosote into the piles. It was done by placing them in an iron cylinder one hundred feet inlength, and six feet in diameter. Out of this the air was first pumped, and then the creosote was pumped in. 

All the stones were brought from the neighbouring hill, where they werequarried by about eight hundred convicts. The trucks descended from thehill down an incline, the full trucks dragging up the empties by meansof ropes and blocks. Upwards of five million tons of stone were thusemployed. 

While visiting the prison we heard a number of anecdotes about theconvicts. Notwithstanding all the vigilance of the warders and guards, several have contrived to make their escape. On a dark night, duringexceedingly thick weather, a daring fellow managed to scale the wallsand drop down outside unperceived. He at once made his way to theshore, where he in vain searched for a boat. Being no sailor, had hefound one, he would have been unable to manage her. He knew that shouldhe attempt to make his way overland he would, to a certainty, bere-taken. Finding a piece of wreck, with some broken oars, and otherdrift-wood, and a coil of rope, he contrived to put together a raft, onwhich seating himself, he shoved off, expecting to be picked up by somepassing vessel. Instead of this, he was--fortunately for himself--discovered by the active coastguardmen, and brought back to prison. Hadhe succeeded in getting to a distance, in all probability he would havebeen drowned or starved to death. 

Climbing to the top of the hill, we obtained a view to the northward ofthe crescent-shaped line of shingle, ten miles long, called Chesil Bank, which joins Portland to the main land. At the Portland end the pebblesare of the size of a hen's egg, gradually diminishing to that of a beanat the other extremity. This enabled smugglers to ascertain on thedarkest night the part of the shore they had reached. The west side ofthe bank is known as Dead Man's Bay, from the number of persons who haveperished there. The most disastrous event occurred in 1794, when afleet of transports, under convoy of Admiral Christian, bound out forthe West Indies, stranded in the bay, and one thousand persons weredrowned. In this century, the Abergavenny and Alexander (Indiamen) weredriven on this treacherous shore, and upwards of two hundred personsperished; and as late as 1838, the Columbine was wrecked on the bank, and many of her crew lost. In those days there were no lifeboats tohasten to the rescue of the helpless seamen. 

Passing amid quarries, we observed enormous square blocks of stone hewnout and ready to be transported to the shore by carts, with long teamsof horses harnessed--often nine together. In the upper layer of thequarries was discovered a fossil pine-tree, upwards of thirty feet inlength, and a foot in diameter, with two or three branches. 

Next morning we and the Dolphin again got under weigh, and the windbeing off shore stood close round the Bill of Portland, having theShambles light-vessel, which has a single fixed light, on our port beam. The Shambles is a large shoal, so called from the number of vesselslost on it with all hands. A fine Indiaman was wrecked there many yearsago, coming home full of passengers, not one of whom was saved. Inanother day they expected to be reunited to their friends, from whomthey had long been absent. How sad it seems! We who were sailing overthe comparatively tranquil sea could scarcely believe it possible thatso many of our fellow-creatures had thus perished within sight of land. 

In former years many ships were lost in consequence of the masters notknowing their exact position. In the present day the coast is muchbetter lighted than formerly. The character of every part of the bottomof the Channel is well-known, so that a ship may grope her way up withthe lead going, the mud, sand, or shells, which are brought up stickingto the grease in a little hollow at the end of the lead, showingwhereabouts she is. Then the quadrants, chronometers, and othernautical instruments are of superior construction, and their use betterunderstood; and, lastly, compasses indicate more truly the direction inwhich the ship is sailing. Not that compasses themselves are at fault, but that--as papa explained to us--every compass of a ship is influencedby the iron on board the vessel. Now, before a ship sails she is swunground in all directions, so that the exact amount of the influenceexercised by the iron is ascertained, and allowance made accordingly. There are also a large number of careful pilots on the look-out forships coming up Channel. However, after a long course of thick weatherand contrary winds, the most experienced master is unable to be certainof his true position; and, notwithstanding all the precautions taken, ships are sometimes carried out of their course, or caught on a leeshore, and driven on the rocks and wrecked. I have been speaking ofsailing vessels. Steamers have an advantage; but even they, from theeffects of currents and tides, sometimes get out of their course, or anaccident happens to the machinery, or a gale comes on and drives them, in spite of all efforts of paddle or screw, on shore. 

We kept inside the Race, which in stormy weather, with the wind meetingthe tide, is excessively dangerous. The seas rise up as if some poweris moving the water from beneath, and letting it suddenly fall downagain. When it thus falls down on the deck of a small vessel, allsteerage-way being lost, she is drifted along, utterly helpless, by thetide, and if heavily laden, possibly sent to the bottom. Vessels, however, when passing the Bill of Portland, keep outside the Race, or, when the wind is off the land, close to the shore, as we were doing. When they are caught by a current in a calm, they are drifted throughit. 

The men at the lighthouses have on several occasions seen a vesselsuddenly disappear beneath the foaming water, which, leaping up, hadcarried her to the bottom exactly as if she had been dragged down by thetentacula of some marine monster. 

Near the end of the Bill are two white towers, of different heights, onethirty-two and the other eighty-six feet high. They are thelighthouses, and in each of them is a bright fixed light. They standover fifteen hundred feet apart, and both lights can be seen at a greatdistance, --the highest being visible four miles further off than thelowest. 

Close to the summit of the cliffs stand two castles, overlooking thewide expanse of the Channel. One, surrounded by embattled walls, isPennsylvania Castle. It was built by the grandson of the great WilliamPenn, the founder of Pennsylvania in America, and was so called afterit. Its large windows show that it was not intended as a fortification, and, of course, a few shot from a modern gun would knock it to pieces. On the further side of a dip or valley, on the summit of a point of rockcommanding a magnificent view along the coast, stands a far more ancientedifice, a tower in the shape of a pentagon, commonly said to have beenbuilt by William Rufus, and called Bow and Arrow Castle from the smallcircular apertures pierced in the walls for shooting arrows. There arelarge brackets above them, from which were suspended planks for theprotection of the garrison when hurling their missiles at the foe. 

We talked a good deal about the Quaker Penn, who, being the son of therenowned Admiral Sir William Penn, sacrificed all the advantages whichhis social position afforded him for the sake of the gospel, and withthe hope of spreading its benign truths among the heathen of the NewWorld, and of affording refuge to those driven forth from their nativeland by persecution. 

On getting round the Bill of Portland we saw ahead the sandy cliff ofBridport, two hundred feet in height, with dark and rugged eminencesbeyond, the Golden Cap of brighter hue rising above them. We now stoodacross West Bay, towards Torquay. Finding the tide against us, we keptclose enough in shore to be able to distinguish places with our glasses. The first harbour off which we came was Bridport, a town ofconsiderable size. The port is formed by two piers, with a basinfurther in. A number of vessels for the Newfoundland fishers are fittedout here. About a couple of miles from the entrance is the PollockShoal; but our craft drew so little water that we might have passed overit without danger of striking. 

To the west of Bridport we saw Charmouth, with its lovely woodedheights, and next to it Lyme Regis, which has a breakwater running outof it called the Cobb, within which there is shelter for vessels. Onceupon a time it was a place of considerable trade. During Cromwell'sdays the town was strongly Republican, and held out gallantly againstPrince Maurice, who came to invest it, even the women putting on redcloaks and men's hats, to look like soldiers. It was here also that theunfortunate Duke of Monmouth landed, to try and gain a kingdom, but erelong to lose his head. 

Still further west, we came off the white and lofty cliff known as BeerHead. Near to it is Beer, a fishing-village possessing "an ancient andfish-like smell. " The inhabitants are primitive in their habits, andwere at one time as daring smugglers as any on the coast. As the windfell we dropped anchor, and pulled on shore, to visit a curious cavern, partly natural and partly a stone quarry. We carried with us all thelanterns we could muster from both vessels. We could not at first seethe mouth, owing to a cloud produced by the different temperature of theouter air and that from within. The entrance is under a rocky archway, over which hung in rich festoons wreaths of green foliage. For somedistance we had to grope our way through a narrow low passage, with thewater dripping down on our heads. At last we found ourselves in a hugecavern supported by substantial pillars. In the more ancient part, fromwhich stone was quarried by picks, the sides and roof were perfectlysmooth. In one place there was a dome, with four well-formed arches, not unlike the interior of a cathedral crypt. From hence we were toldthe stone was hewn for the building of Exeter Cathedral. The modernportions of the cavern have been excavated by gunpowder, which has ofcourse torn off huge masses without any regard to symmetry. 

When we returned on board, Paul Truck told us that in days of yore asmuggler bold--Jack Rattenbury by name--took possession of the cavern, in which to store his goods after he had safely landed them from hislugger. For some time he carried on his trade undiscovered, for, beinga cautious man, he dug a vault, in which his cargoes of brandy and balesof lace and silks were concealed, covering the floor over again withheaps of stone. The Revenue officers, however, at length got scent ofJack's doings, and came in strong force, hoping to capture him and takepossession of his property. But he had received timely notice, andnothing could be found within the cavern. 

Of course they did not fail to pay many a subsequent visit. Once moreJack--hearing that they were coming when his vault was full of goods, and that they had an inkling of the true state of the case--managed tocarry off a considerable portion. The remainder fell into their handsas the reward of their perseverance. Shortly afterwards Jack himselfwas captured by the Revenue officers, who got possession of all hiscontraband goods. In the larder of his house was a fat goose, whichthey were anxious to possess, in order to have a feast to commemoratetheir success, but the goose not being contraband, they dared not takepossession of it, so they offered to purchase the bird at a large price. Jack and his wife, however, were firm. Nothing would induce them tosell the goose, though money might be useful to Jack, who was to becarried off to prison; and the officers were fain to be content with thebread and cheese and cider with which he supplied them. Jack used totell the story with great glee, observing that the goose was wellstuffed with point lace, every yard of which was worth ten times as muchas the bird. 

The smuggler sometimes turned the tables on his pursuers. A daringRevenue officer having suddenly come upon him, Jack and his companionsseized the unfortunate man, and kept him fast bound until they hadremoved all their merchandise. Though supposed to be unusuallysuccessful, and looked upon as the prince of smugglers in those parts, Jack did not manage to save money, and ultimately died a poor man. Papasaid that such a clever, ingenious fellow must have made his fortune inany honest business. 

We were becalmed off Sidmouth while attempting to reach Exmouth, at themouth of the river Exe, some way up which stands the large town ofExeter. Though some distance from the shore, we could hear plainly therumble of the trains as they passed along the railway, the water being agreat conductor of sound. We had a lantern with a bright light hangingfrom the forestay, to show our position to any passing steamer whichmight otherwise have run us down. This was the only danger to beapprehended, for no sailing vessel could have come near us, and at thedistance we were from the land there was no risk of being drifted on therocks. 

Uncle Tom hailed us, and we went on board the Dolphin to supper. Ofcourse we heard many anecdotes about that part of the country. UncleTom, who had spent some time at Sidmouth, described it to us. Thesurrounding scenery is highly picturesque. It was while residing here, for the sake of his health, that the Duke of Kent died. In the samehouse the Queen spent much of her childhood. 

At a village near Beer, where the women are employed in manufacturinglace, Her Majesty's wedding dress was made. The country peoplethroughout the district are employed in the manufacture of lace. 

On the shore hereabouts, all sorts of marine curiosities can be pickedup, such as petrified wood, madrepores, jaspers, agates, and a varietyof shells. 

Near Sidmouth is a very interesting house, which is thrown openoccasionally to public view by the proprietor. In the garden are glasshouses, in which oranges, vines, pines, and the most beautiful orchidsgrow, with pineries, and ferneries, and formerly there were aviaries, and a menagerie of curious animals, and in the cottage are preserved anumber of rare things. 

Further inland is Budleigh Salterton, so named after its buddle, orstream, which running through the village makes its way slowly down tothe sea. Near here is a homestead called Hayes Barton, at which SirWalter Raleigh was born. The house remains much as it was in his days, and in the parlour the wide hearth is still to be seen at which he usedto sit and smoke his pipe. It was here that the servant, coming in--never having before seen his master so employed--threw a tankard ofwater over Sir Walter, fancying that he was on fire. 

As we returned on board the Lively, we observed two white fixed lights, which marked the entrance to Teignmouth Harbour, showing us clearly ourposition. 

When the morning broke we were still off the ruddy cliffs which line theshore. A person first seeing this part of the coast would consider thatAlbion was a misnomer for England, as no walls of white chalk are to beseen rising from the blue ocean. As far as the eye can reach, varioustints of red prevail. 

A light breeze carried us into Babbicombe Bay, and we were againbecalmed off some curiously-shaped rocks, which lie off a point calledBob's Nose. It was rather tantalising not to be able to get in to seemore of the scenery of that most picturesque bay. We could, however, distinguish the houses among the rich groves on the top of the cliffs, in which were openings, with pretty cottages perched on projectingledges, while others were built close down to the water. Two yachtswere at anchor in the bay, which we agreed must be a capital yachtingplace, as a vessel can get in or out at all times, and it is shelteredfrom every wind except from the east. We had our mackerel lines outwhenever the vessel was moving through the water. Though, as before, weat first baited with pieces of white linen, yet as soon as a mackerelwas caught, we put a bit of it on to our hooks, at which its relativeseagerly bit. The ends of the lines were fastened either to the backstayor the taffrail, allowing them to pass over our finger, so that themoment a mackerel took the bait we could feel it. We then hauled in, the fish appearing at the surface skipping and jumping like a mass ofsilver. We caught a dozen fine fish before breakfast, and they wereimmediately frizzing away on the fire. As we could not move along, weamused ourselves with our spy-glasses, observing what was going forwardon shore. 

While thus employed a party came off in a couple of boats to picnic onone of the green islands off Bob's Nose. The first thing most of thepeople did, as soon as they had deposited their baskets on acomparatively level space at the bottom, was to try and climb up to thesummit, which is of considerable height. The sides are steep, andpresent a surface of soft green grass. We saw one fat old lady, evidently ambitious of vying with her younger companions, making anattempt to reach the top with the aid of a boatman and one of thegentlemen of the party. Up she went some distance, when she stopped, though not for long, and panted for breath; then on again she proceeded, though not so quickly. But the task was clearly beyond her power. Again and again she stopped. In vain her two supporters togged. We sawher making gestures, as if imploring to be let alone. At length downshe plumped on the turf, signing to her friends to leave her. For sometime she appeared to be tolerably comfortable, though we saw her fanningherself, and puffing and blowing, while her companions quickly went onand joined the rest of the party, who had gained the summit. It wouldhave been prudent in her to remain quiet, but unwisely she movedonwards. 

"She's gathering way!" exclaimed Uncle Tom; and, sure enough, down shebegan to slide, at first very slowly, but as an impetus was gained, shewent faster and faster. In vain she screamed for help. The soft grassafforded no hold to the frantic grasps she made at it. Her criesreached us. Her companions must have been very hard of hearing, for itwas not until she had slid two-thirds of the way down that any of themseemed to attend to her, and then the whole party set off rushing downthe hill-side, at the bottom of which they stood ready to receive her. Though much frightened, she was not, I think, much hurt. 

Tom and Jack came on board to luncheon, and we agreed to row in toTorquay, and to allow the yachts to follow; but just as we were shovingoff a breeze sprang up, so we jumped on board again, and, rounding Bob'sNose, we were able with a few tacks to make our way into the harbour. We brought-up in the inner harbour, but the Dolphin remained at anchoroutside. 

Torquay is one of the prettiest seaside places in England. From thewater we observed the houses on the hill-sides, with beautiful villasscattered about in all directions amid groves of green trees. The shorealong the north side of the bay is indented by numerous little bayscalled coves; the water is deep and clear, so that they are muchfrequented by bathers. One is appropriated to ladies, another togentlemen. At the end of the last century Torquay consisted only of afew fishermen's cottages scattered about the beach. 

We took an interesting walk on shore, which we greatly enjoyed. Wevisited a curious natural cavern called Kent's Cavern. The sceneryround the entrance is thickly-wooded and wild in the extreme, probablyjust as it has been for centuries. We were told that it runs forupwards of six hundred feet into the bowels of the earth, and hasnumerous branches and ramifications. We had brought a guide and lightswith us, so that we could explore it without risk. We could see, imbedded in the rock, bones of animals which at some remote period madeit their abode; and naturalists, who dig them out, say that they belongto tribes which are only found in tropical climates. Our guide showedus that there are three distinct layers or floors of earth in thecavern. In the topmost are found beads and various instrumentsmanufactured by the Saxons, as well as the bones of foxes and badgers. In the next strata are the bones of elephants, of rhinoceroses, of lionsand hyenas, of wolves and elks. In the third layer are the bones ofbears, which must have been of great size, as also of a nondescriptanimal said to be between a lion and a bear. Curiously enough, judgingfrom the remains found in them, the branches on one side indicate thefavourite habitation of elephants, while on the other, packs of wolveswere in the habit of taking up their abode. Probably the more savagebeasts of prey dragged in the carcases of the creatures they had killed;and they in their turn dying, left their bones mingled with the others. We were told that flint knives were found along with the bones ofanimals which for ages have become extinct, pointing to a period whenthe country must have been inhabited by races of men as uncivilised asthe South Sea Islanders. Possibly it might have been at a periodantecedent to the flood, when our island was joined to the Continent. 

The next morning we got under weigh, and stood across to Brixham, on thesouth side of Torbay. There is a wide beach all the way along the wholesweep of the bay, except near Brixham, where the cliffs again rise, andextend to the southern point called Bury Head. Brixham is one of thelargest fishing-villages on the coast. The inhabitants own a number ofvessels. At few places is a greater quantity of shells to be picked upof all descriptions, of which we collected a number in a few minutes, when we pulled ashore. Some of the shells were four or five incheslong. The occupant has the power of working itself rapidly into thesoft sand, to get out of harm's way. We saw some, but they suddenlypopped down, and were far out of our reach when we attempted to dig themup. 

Brixham will over be memorable as the place where the Prince of Orangelanded. We looked at the stone on which he placed his foot when hefirst stepped on shore. It was a glorious day for liberty when hisfleet of seventy ships, carrying fourteen thousand men, stood in thebay. The inhabitants were inclined to look askance at the invaders whenthey landed, recollecting the horrors they had endured at the hands ofJudge Jeffreys after the death of Monmouth; but when they saw the bannerof the prince unfurled, bearing the inscription of "God and theProtestant religion, " and he addressed them, saying, with a Dutchaccent, "Mein people, mein goot people! Be not afraid! I am come foryour goot, and for all your goots;" and when they saw the gallant arrayby which he was surrounded, their courage revived, and loud acclamationsrent the air. It was the dawn of a new era; and England owes a deepdebt of gratitude to the memory of the gallant prince by whose means ourcivil and religious liberties have been secured on a basis which cannever be undermined unless by our own folly and supineness, althoughtreacherous enemies within are insidiously making the attempt. 

Papa made these remarks, and we all heartily agreed with him. Torbayaffords excellent anchorage except when the wind is to the east, towardswhich direction it is perfectly open; and fearful accidents haveoccurred when gales have suddenly sprung up from that quarter. Someyears ago upwards of sixty vessels--some of large size--had stood intothe bay during a strong westerly wind. During the night it suddenlyveered round to the east, and blew a tremendous gale, the rain pouringin torrents. Having brought-up close to one another, they were unableto beat out, and some breaking loose drove against others. One largevessel drove against the pier with a tremendous crash, which awakenedthe inhabitants from their slumbers. The brave fishermen--knowing whathad occurred--rushed out to render assistance, and were the means ofsaving many of the crew. A little boy was thrown by a seaman from theship, and caught in the arms of a fisherman. Several vessels went downat their anchors, others were cast on shore. When morning broke manyothers were seen to founder with all hands, there being no possibilityof rendering their crews any assistance. The whole shore was strewnwith dead bodies thrown up by the foaming seas. 

CHAPTER FOUR. 

THE SOUTH COAST--CONTINUED. 

At an early hour the next morning, the Dolphin and we got under weigh, with a northerly breeze, and rounding Berry Head stood for FrowardPoint, at the eastern side of Dartmouth Harbour. We had to keep at adistance from it, to avoid a reef of rocks which runs off that part ofthe coast. The entrance of Dartmouth Harbour is picturesque, with highrocks on both sides. It is, or rather once was, guarded by a castle oneither hand. That on Dartmouth is still held as a military post. Thecastle on the King's Wear side is now fitted up as a private residence. In the days of Edward the Fourth the men of Dartmouth received thirtypounds a year on condition of their building a mighty defensive tower, and extending a long chain to reach across to King's Wear. Running upthe Dart, we came to an anchor opposite the town, which stands on alevel space. Few rivers in England have so picturesque an entrance asthe Dart, the scenery of which, though less bold as we proceeded higherup, is very pretty. 

From the Dart sailed the fleet of Coeur de Lion, when he led theCrusaders to the Holy Land. In this neighbourhood also was born JohnDavis, the Arctic explorer, whose name is given to the strait at theentrance of Baffin's Bay, which he discovered when on his expedition inhis two small vessels, the Sunshine and the Moonshine, --the one of fiftytons, and the other of thirty-five tons burden, carrying respectivelytwenty-three and nineteen men. 

A few miles up the Dart another Arctic navigator--Sir Humphrey Gilbert--was born. Here also Sir Walter Raleigh resided; and from the Dart heled forth those expeditions against the Spaniards, in his ship theRoebuck, in which the Madre de Dios and other argosies laden withtreasure, rich spices, and jewels rewarded the valour of his followers. 

The most interesting person connected with Dartmouth of late years isNewcomen, the inventor of the steam engine. He carried on business inthe town as an ironmonger. All honour is due to his memory, althoughothers perfected the work which he commenced. 

Dartmouth contains many picturesque, highly ornamented old houses, although a large number have been pulled down to make room for modernresidences. Amongst the most interesting of the former is the curiousold Butter Row. Some little way up the harbour, on the west side, isKing's Wear, where the Dart Yacht Club have their headquarters. Nearthe mouth of the harbour is the Britannia school and training-ship forRoyal Naval Cadets. Here they remain until they have attained asufficient knowledge of navigation and seamanship to become midshipmen, and make themselves really useful. Their regular schooling goes on allthe time. Officers in the navy are far more highly educated than theyused to be in days of yore, when a knowledge of navigation andseamanship was all that was required. 

Papa knew one of the officers, so we went on board the ship. It isfitted up with a large school-room, class-rooms, and dormitories. Shehas only the few guns necessary for exercising. Though once aline-of-battle ship--being built of wood--she would be unable to competewith ironclads, and of course her fighting days are over. 

The wind being fair, we stood out of the Dart in the afternoon, andsteered for the Start. At the end of the Start is a lofty tower. Itwas visible at sunset, when the wind fell almost calm. The tide wasfavourable, however, and we made some way. In a short time a brilliantrevolving light flashed across the waters. It can be seen nineteenmiles off, the tower being two hundred and four feet above high-water. In the tower is a bell, which is rung during fogs, to warn ships fromapproaching too near. The light is a dioptric or lens-light of thefirst order. The apparatus consists of a central powerful lamp; roundthis is placed an arrangement of glass, so formed as to refract thesebeams into parallel rays in the required directions. 

Lenses were employed in lighthouses at a very early period. When theywere first made they were used for burning instruments, by collectingthe rays of the sun. It was seen, however, that they would equallycollect the rays of a lamp. They have of late years been very greatlyimproved by a celebrated glass manufacturer. Great indeed has been theimprovement in lighthouses. Once upon a time they were simply hightowers, which had on their summits open fireplaces, in which either woodor coal fires were burned. They were often unserviceable at the verytime their services were most required. During a heavy gale, forinstance, when the wind was blowing towards the land, it drove theflames of an open fire away from the direction in which they were mostwanted to be seen. Sometimes, in fog or rain, the glare of the fire wasvisible by refraction in the atmosphere, although the fire itself couldnot be seen. Such was the tower of the North Foreland. This lighthouseexisted in 1636, and merely had a large glass lantern fixed on the topof a timber erection, which, however, was burnt in 1683. Towards theend of the same century a portion of the present structure was raised, having an iron grate on the summit. It being found difficult to keep aproper flame in windy or rainy weather, about 1782 it was covered inwith a roof and large sash windows, and a coal fire was kept alight bymeans of enormous bellows, which the attendants worked throughout thenight. 

This very primitive means of maintaining a light was exchanged in 1790for a lantern, with lamps and other apparatus. The Eddystone lighthousewas from the first illuminated by means of a chandelier, containingtwenty-four wax candles, five of which weighed two pounds. TheLiverpool lighthouses had oil lamps, with rude reflectors. Down to theyear 1823 coal fires were used in several lighthouses. Really goodlights have come into universal use only during the last few years; andit is said that on the west coast of Sweden a coal fire is still used atan important lighthouse. 

The Argand lamp is generally employed in lighthouses. It was thegreatest advance in artificial lighting until the introduction of gas. It was discovered by Monsieur Argand, a citizen of Geneva. He wastrying experiments with a common lamp he had invented. A youngerbrother describes its accidental discovery. He says: "My brother hadlong been trying to bring his lamp to perfection. The neck of a brokenflask was lying on the chimney-piece. I happened to reach across thetable, and to place it over the circular flame of the lamp. Immediatelyit rose with brilliancy. My brother started from his seat in ecstasy, rushed upon me in a transport of joy, and embraced me with rapture. "Thus was the new form of lamp discovered. 

Various forms of cylindrical wick lamps are employed for illuminatinglighthouses. For reflectors the wick is nearly an inch in diameter. For the lens-light a more powerful and complicated lamp is used. Theoil is made to flow into the burners by various means. The most simpleis by placing the reservoir higher than the lamp, the oil thus flowingby its own gravity to the level required. Mineral oil is now generallyused, as being superior to rape-seed or sperm oil. Olive oil is used insome foreign lighthouses; and at the Cape of Good Hope oil produced fromthe tails of Cape sheep is employed. It is said to be far superior toall other oils for its brilliancy in burning. 

Attempts have been made to introduce the limelight, that being of fargreater brilliancy than any other. We read of a curious experimentconnected with it. A limelight was placed on the summit of a hill, called Slievesnaught, in Ireland, which was always enveloped in haze byday. Between it and the observing station was a church tower, twelvemiles distant, and on this station an ordinary reflector was fixed, while the hill itself was seventy miles distant. Notwithstanding thegreat difference in the distances, the limelight was apparently muchnearer and brighter than the light twelve miles off. 

Great as are the difficulties of keeping up a continuous flame, theyhave been almost overcome by an arrangement introduced by Mr Renton, which preserves the cylinder of lime from cracking. Gas has lately beenintroduced in the lighthouse at Hartlepool. Hopes were entertained thatelectric lights might be introduced, but the great difficulty is tomaintain an equable force, as the battery gradually declines in power. There are also other difficulties to be mastered. The most successfulexperiments have been carried on in the South Foreland lighthouse, by anarrangement of powerful magnets. The current thus produced passingthrough the carbon pillars, produces a splendid light, entirelyeclipsing all other modes of illumination. Years ago a limelight was soarranged as to be used on board ship for illuminating objects at a greatdistance. By its means, an intended attack of torpedo vessels could bedetected. It was employed also in the Abyssinian expedition, forilluminating the advance camp when there was a possibility of it beingattacked by Theodore's troops. Now, however, electric lights are usedon board all the first-class men-of-war, incandescent lamps being fittedfor internal use, and arc lights for signalling and searching purposes. 

All this information we obtained while slowly gliding by the Start. TheStart light, from its height and brilliancy, can be seen much furtheroff than the Eddystone light, which we sighted just before morning. Ahead wind springing up, and the tide being against us, we ran back pastBolt Head into Salcombe Range. The sun had not risen as we entered theharbour. The scenery of the entrance is wild and romantic. High andrugged rocks appeared above our mast-head. We brought-up on the easternside of the harbour. As soon as the anchor was down we piped tobreakfast. 

Just beneath Bolt Head we observed the ruins of an old castle, once astronghold of importance, which held out bravely for the Royalists underthe governor, Sir Edward Fortescue. For four months he and his gallantfollowers withstood the numberless cannon-shot poured in from theheights above, and at length only yielded on honourable terms to theleader of the Parliamentary forces, who allowed them to walk out withtheir arms and colours flying. 

Uncle Tom and Jack came on board to breakfast, and we spent a jollymorning, in spite of the pouring rain. I could never fancy taking acruise alone in a yacht, especially without a crew, as two or threegentlemen have done; but nothing is more pleasant than sailing incompany with another yacht, with a merry party on board each vessel, andexchanging visits, sometimes "mealing"--as Uncle Tom called it--on boardthe one, sometimes on board the other, as we always did when in harbour. At sea this, of course, could not be done, except in calm weather. Although Salcombe Range is rugged and wild in the extreme at its mouth, there are some beautiful country houses higher up the harbour; onebelongs to the Earl of Devon, and another to Lord Kinsale. So genial isthe climate, that myrtles, magnolias, oleanders, and aloes grow inprofusion, and fill the air with their fragrance. Vines and all sortsof fruit-trees also flourish--the apple-tree especially yielding a richcrop. We agreed that for a winter residence there could not be a moredelightful spot in England. 

The following evening, the weather clearing, we made sail, the Dolphinleading. As we stood out, we passed a fine large schooner--a fruitvessel, I believe--which had put in here. Paul Truck hailed her as wepassed slowly by, and he found that he knew her master, who said thatshe had put in to land her owner and his family, and that she was boundup the Straits of Gibraltar. The very next night she was driven onshore near the Lizard--either on the Stags or some other rocks--and wasdashed to pieces, all hands perishing. 

The wind, though light, was sufficiently to the southward to enable usto stand for Plymouth; but we kept close-hauled, that we might have agood offing, should the wind shift to the westward, when it would be inour teeth. Darkness was creeping over the face of the water. TheDolphin was about two cables length ahead of us. We had just gone downto tea, and Oliver was pouring out a cup for papa, when we were startledby a loud shout uttered by Truck:

"A man overboard from the Dolphin!"

Oliver, in his agitation, let go the teapot, which was capsized. We allrushed on deck, papa leading, and Oliver butting me with his headbehind. 

"Where is he?" asked papa, running forward to look out. "Keep her asshe goes, " he shouted. 

The Dolphin was in stays, coming about, an operation she took some timeto perform. It was evident we should be up to the spot where the man--whoever he was--had fallen into the water before she could reach it. Wepeered through the gloom, but could perceive nothing amid the leadenseas flecked over with snowy foam. 

"Stand by to lower the boat; trice up the main tack!" cried papa. 

"I see him, sir!" cried Ned and Ben, in one voice, pointing to a blackspot which appeared now in the hollow of the sea, now with the foamcurling round it. 

"If it's a man, he's swimming well, " cried papa. 

"I do believe it's Jack!" exclaimed Oliver. 

"Haul up the foresail, down with the helm, let fly the jib sheet!"shouted papa. 

At that moment a cry reached our ears, "Help! help!" The cutter was nowhove-to. While papa had been giving his orders he had been throwing offhis coat and waistcoat. No sooner did he hear Jack's voice thanoverboard he sprang, striking out towards our cousin, who was on thepoint of sinking, being seized with cramp. He was a good swimmer, andbut for this might have kept up until he had reached the Lively, for theDolphin was much further off from him than we were. We saw papa makinghis way towards Jack. I felt inclined to jump overboard; but Truck sangout to Oliver and me to assist in getting the boat in the water, whenthe two men, Ned and Ben, jumped into her. 

"Pull away in the wake of the captain, " shouted Truck; "he'll handMaster Jack to you when he gets hold of him. Take care you don'tcapsize the boat. The captain will look after himself; but listen, anddo as he tells you. "

There was a good deal of sea on, and the boat tossed about fearfully. There seemed a great risk of her bows striking Jack, had the menattempted to pull directly towards him. They soon overtook papa, butwisely kept at an oar's length on one side of him. My heart beat as ifit would jump into my throat. It seemed to me that at any moment papahimself might sink. I could barely distinguish Jack's head, andsometimes I thought it was only a lump of sea-weed. He had prudentlynot attempted to swim, but thrown himself on his back. The Dolphin'sboat was by this time in the water, and was also making its way towardsthe spot; but papa was very much nearer. I almost shouted with joy whenI saw that he had got hold of Jack, and was keeping his head, which Icould now more clearly distinguish, above the white foam. 

"Pull round, lads, " I heard him shout, "and back in towards me!"

The men obeyed the order. 

"Now, one of you come aft, and catch hold of the boy. "

With intense relief we saw Jack hauled on board over the stern; but papawas still in the water. For a moment I thought of sharks, rememberinghow often those horrible monsters had carried off people just about toget into a boat. Then I recollected that they were seldom if ever seenso far north. Papa just held on to the stern until Jack had beencarried by Ben a little way forward, and then we saw him climb in, Benjust lending him a hand, which was all he required. Doubly thankful wewere when we saw him also safe in the stern-sheets. 

"Praise God!" exclaimed old Truck. "If the captain had gone it wouldhave broken my heart. "

The boat, instead of returning to us, pulled on to the Dolphin, andthere was just light sufficient for us to see Jack lifted on board, bothvessels remaining hove-to. Presently the Dolphin's boat came alongsidewith a message from papa, desiring us to go back in her. We jumped inat once, and were quickly on board. Papa had gone below to change hiswet clothes, when we found that Jack had been placed on a mattress ondeck, wrapped up in a blanket. Uncle Tom was kneeling by his side, exposing his face and chest to the breeze, while one of the men stood bywith a lantern. Jack was as pale as death--indeed, as we watched himwith intense grief, he appeared to be dead. 

"He's got too much water in his throat, " said the captain of theDolphin; "better place him on his face, and let it run out. "

This was done, with our assistance, and Uncle Tom placed one of Jack'swrists under his forehead; but still he showed no sign of life. Whilewe were attempting thus to restore him, papa came on deck. He at onceplaced Jack on his back, and putting a cloak under his shoulders, slightly raised his chest, while he told me to hold his feet covered upin the blanket. He then wiped his mouth and nostrils, and drew histongue out, keeping it projecting beyond the lips. By slightly raisingthe lower jaw the tongue was held in the required position by his teeth. He then raised his arms upwards by the sides of his head, and kept themsteadily but gently stretched out, moving them forwards for a fewmoments. He then turned them down, and pressed them gently and firmlyfor the same period of time against the sides of the chest. Hecontinued repeating these movements alternately about fifteen times in aminute. By papa's directions, we rubbed both his arms and his legs, from the feet and hands towards the heart; and another blanket havingbeen heated at the galley, he was wrapped up in it. In the meantime, papa having called for a bucket of cold water, dashed it withconsiderable force over Jack's face. How thankful we felt when, afterthis operation had twice been performed, we heard a slight sigh escapeour cousin's lips!

"Thank God, all is well!" exclaimed papa. "Cheer up, Tom; Jack iscoming to. "

Again the patient sighed, and we observed that he was beginning tobreathe. Papa placed his hand on Jack's heart. "It beats faintly, " hesaid; "but the pulsations are becoming stronger and stronger. We maycarry him below now without fear, " he added, in cheerful voice; "he willsoon come round. "

Jack now cried out faintly, as if suffering from pain. 

"That's a good sign, " said papa. 

All this time we had continued rubbing his feet and hands. Papa andUncle Tom lifted him up, carried him below, and placed him in his berth, having completely dried his head, and wrapped him in a warm blanket. Onthis the steward brought some broth, which he had been warming up, and afew teaspoonfuls were poured down Jack's throat. 

Papa said he had adopted Doctor Sylvester's mode of proceeding, which isthat advocated by the Royal Humane Society. The advantages of it arethat inspiration may be made to precede expiration. The expansion ofthe throat is artificially ensured. The patient is not likely to beinjured by the manipulation, and the contents of the stomach cannot passinto the wind-pipe, while the tongue is prevented from obstructinginspiration. Both sides of the chest are thus equally inflated, and alarger amount of air is inspired than by other methods. Of course, where medical men with apparatus are at hand, other plans may beadopted; but papa said he had seen several persons treated as Jack hadbeen, apparently much farther gone, but who yet had completelyrecovered. 

We watched over our cousin for some time, when as both Uncle Tom andpapa thought he was quite out of danger, we returned on board thecutter. How he had fallen into the sea no one could positively say, butwe knew we should hear all about it on the following day. 

The wind had greatly fallen, and the yacht had all this time remainedhove-to. As soon as we had got on board, the boat was hoisted up. Papashouted, "Let go the fore-sheet;" and the cutter moving through thewater, the yacht quickly passed the Dolphin. She, however, immediatelyfollowed our example, and together we sailed on towards the brilliantlight of the Eddystone. We watched it for some time, and at lengthturned in; but before getting into our berths we heartily thanked Godthat by His great mercy our poor cousin had been delivered from aterrible death. When we went on deck again, at early dawn, the Dolphinwas astern of us. We hove-to, and allowing her to come up with us, enquired after Jack. 

"He's going on well, and is fast asleep, " was the answer. We were bythis time near enough to the Eddystone lighthouse to distinguish itsform and colour. At high-water, the rock on which it stands is coveredto the depth of fourteen feet, so that it then literally rises out ofthe sea. Its predecessor was erected by Smeaton in 1759, about fourteenmiles south of Plymouth Breakwater; but the rocks on which it was builtwere gradually undermined by the waves, and it had to be replaced by anew building on a firmer foundation. 

We made but very little way during the night. The sky at this time hadassumed a most extraordinary appearance. It appeared to be sprinkledover with flocks of wool of the most brilliant colours--red, yellow, green, pink and gold, indeed, all the hues of the rainbow, with scarcelyany blue spaces. 

"What a magnificent day we shall have!" I exclaimed. 

"I'm not so sure of that, sir, " answered Truck. "If I mistake not, before we get into Plymouth Sound we shall have a sneeze from thesouth-west. Fortunately we've got a harbour under our lee. We won'trouse up the captain, though, because he is tired after his swim and hisanxiety about Master Jack, but I'll take leave to shorten sail in goodtime. "

"Four reefs down in the mainsail, lads, " he sang out. "Be smart aboutit. Get out the storm jib. In with the big jib. "

"Before many minutes are over the gale will be down upon us!" Paulshouted out to the Dolphin, making signs to show what he expected. Wesaw her immediately afterwards shortening sail. Scarcely had we set thestorm jib than the wind struck it, and away we flew over the nowfast-rising seas. In a few seconds the wind was howling and shrieking, and the whole ocean was covered with foam. 

A short distance off, on the starboard quarter, was the Dolphin. In aninstant, as the squall struck her, she heeled over until the waterrushed through the lee scuppers; but the foresail was speedily brailedup, and under a storm jib and closely-reefed mainsail she staggered on, keeping about the same distance from us as at first. Afar off werenumberless vessels standing for the harbour; some perhaps had sailed theprevious evening, others were standing up Channel, or had previouslybeen making for Plymouth. We dashed on over the now foaming billows. The number of vessels appeared to increase as they approached either theeast or the west end of the breakwater: we kept to the former entrance. Some of the outward-bound vessels ran back into Cawsand Bay, on the westside of the harbour, just abreast of the end of the breakwater on whichthe lighthouse stands. Every moment the wind increased, until it blew atremendous gale; and thankful we were when we had passed the Newstoneand Shagstone, two dangerous rocks at the eastern entrance of the Sound, and had got safe inside the breakwater. This is about a mile up theSound, running east and west, the two ends inclining to the northward. 

We passed by so quickly that we had but little time to examine it; butwe could see what a magnificent structure it was, being composedentirely of huge masses of granite. Papa told us that it was commencedin 1812, "a few years before he was born. " In the first instanceenormous blocks of stone were thrown down, such as the tides could notmove, until the foundation was formed in the required shape, and nearlya mile in length. When this artificial reef rose almost on a level withthe water, after it had had time to settle, blocks of hewn stone werecemented on to it, so that it now has the appearance of a long broadwall with a lighthouse at the western end. 

It has stood so many severe gales that there is no probability of itsgiving way, unless some unexpected movement of the ground below shouldoccur. Until the Portland Breakwater was built, that at Plymouth wasconsidered the finest structure of the sort in the world. In those daysengineering skill had not advanced as far as it has at present. Thestones were conveyed from the quarries in boats, so contrived that theycould be dropped through the bottom, over the spot where it was desiredto place them. The whole cost of the work was a million and a half ofmoney, although a third less in length than the Portland Breakwater. Just inside this ocean barrier several large ships were at anchor, perfectly secure from the gale raging outside it; but we continued ourcourse up the Sound, with the tack triced up and the peak dropped, andeven then we had as much sail as we could stagger under. We were veryglad after rounding the Cobbler Rock to bring up in Catwater, which isthe eastern harbour of Plymouth. Passing beneath the citadel, whichcompletely commands the Sound, as soon as we had stowed sails, we wenton board the Dolphin. We found our cousin sitting up in bed. 

"How are you, Jack?" I asked. 

"Somewhat weak, and very queer, " he answered. "I want to thank you, Uncle Westerton, for saving me; for if you hadn't come when you did, Ibelieve that I should have gone to the bottom. "

"Don't talk about it, Jack, " said papa; "you are not the first fellow--I'm thankful to say--I've picked out of the water; and for your father'ssake, as well as your own, we should have been sorry to lose you. Praise God for His mercy that you are still alive, and are able to serveHim in the way He desires!"

"What did it feel like when you were drowning?" asked Oliver; "I'veheard say that the sensation is very pleasant. "

"I can't say that I found it so, and I doubt if anybody else does. AllI remember is that I felt in a horrible fright, and that the water camerushing into my mouth much faster than I liked. I had a terrible painin one of my legs, which prevented me from swimming a stroke; then Iheard a loud roaring noise, while all seemed confusion, except that Ifelt a most disagreeable choking sensation. I really do not know whatelse happened; but I would advise you not to follow my example if youcan help it. "

"But I say, Jack, how did you manage to tumble into the water?" inquiredOliver. 

"That's a puzzle to me, " answered Jack. "I believe that I had jumped upon the taffrail when the vessel gave a kick, and over I went. I musthave sunk, I think, before I knew where I was; and when I came to thesurface I instinctively struck out towards the Lively, for I could notsee the schooner, as my eyes happened to be turned away from her. Ishould have been alongside you in a few minutes, had not that dreadfulcramp come on. Beyond that I really don't know much more. "

After Jack had had his breakfast he declared that he was well enough togo on shore; but the rain coming down in torrents we remained on boardthe Dolphin, and amused ourselves by forming plans for the next day, should it clear up. I should have said that we had brought-up among anenormous number of coasters and small trading vessels, as Catwater isthe mercantile harbour of Plymouth; while yachts generally betakethemselves to Hamoaze, at the mouth of the Tamar, on the west side ofDevonport. 

All day long the rain continued; but I got on board the cutter, andspent some time in writing up my journal. It was very provoking to bekept prisoners; but such is often the fate of yachtsmen. We might, tobe sure, have gone on shore in our waterproofs and south-westers; but weagreed that there would be no fun in paddling about a strange placeafter the fashion of young ducks; so summoning all the patience we couldmuster, we made ourselves as happy as we could on board. We had reasonto be thankful that we had got into a snug harbour. Vessels werecontinually arriving with spars carried away and otherwise damaged, andduring the night it blew a perfect hurricane. 

Before the breakwater was built the sea used to come rolling right upthe Sound, and vessels have even been wrecked close under Plymouth, andthe town itself often suffered. Even as it was, we could not get acrossto Drake's Island, on which a fort is situated guarding the entrance tothe Tamar. In the afternoon of the next day the weather became brightand beautiful, and we walked through Plymouth to Devonport, whichcontains the dockyard, and is surrounded by fortifications. We visitedthe dockyard, which is very similar to that of Portsmouth. We were muchinterested in going into the rope manufactories, where ropes and hempencables are spun in rooms twelve hundred feet long. Several ships werebuilding on the slips, and saw-mills and forges were busily at work. Weafterwards went to Stonehouse, where the Royal William VictuallingEstablishment is situated. It covers fourteen acres; and here beer isbrewed, wheat is ground, biscuits baked, and cattle and pigs are turnedinto beef and pickled pork. 

Next day was Sunday, when we went to church. 

On Monday morning we pulled in the Dolphin's boat across to MountEdgecumbe, having a good view of the south side of Plymouth and thegreen slopes of the Hoe, which extend down to the water's edge on thewest of the citadel. 

From Mount Edgecumbe the noble owner of the estate takes his title. Itis indeed a beautiful spot, the hill-side facing the water covered withtrees, and walks cut amid them. From the hills at the north end weenjoyed beautiful views up the Hamoaze, and looked down into Mill Bay, and watched the fierce tide as the ebb made, rushing out of the Tamar, past the Devil's Point, having a good view also over the whole shore, thickly sprinkled with houses and fortifications. 

The inhabitants of few towns in England have a finer place of recreationthan the Hoe affords on a summer's evening, where the people of Plymouthcan walk up and down enjoying the view of its picturesque shores, and atthe same time getting the sea-breeze, which blows up the Sound. 

We were just on the point of leaving Mount Edgecumbe when we saw severalpeople ahead of us; and Oliver, who was in front, turned round and said, "I do believe there's Dick Pepper;" and running on he gave him a slap onthe shoulder, when we saw that it was really Dick himself. 

Dick stopped till I got up to him. 

"I am staying with an old uncle and aunt at Plymouth; but they don'tknow what to do with me, and, to say the truth, I don't know what to dowith myself, " he said. 

"Wouldn't it be fun if you could come with us?" exclaimed Oliver. 

"That it would!" answered Dick; "and I'm sure Aunt Deborah will bedelighted to get rid of me. "

We introduced him as our schoolfellow to papa, who, guessing what was inour minds, invited him to come and sail with us, as he knew we shouldlike it. 

Dick replied that if his uncle and aunt would let him he would come fastenough; and as they were strolling on before, we three ran after them. Dick told them of the invitation he had received. I guessed by thefaces of the old lady and gentleman that they would not refuse. I wasright; and it was at once settled that Dick should return home and packup a few traps, and come on board that very evening. 

Dropping a little way behind, we were joined by Jack, when we set up ashout, which somewhat astonished Aunt Deborah and her husband. We sawthe latter, who was somewhat deaf, enquiring what the noise was about. When Dick joined them he got a scolding for being so improperlyhilarious. 

While he and his relatives returned across the ferry to Stonehouse, wewent to see the steam floating bridge, similar to that used betweenPortsmouth and Gosport. We much wished that we had had time to pull upthe Tamar, the scenery of which is highly picturesque. Small steamboatsrun up it a considerable distance, and carry excursionists. We wentsome distance up, to see the beautiful iron bridge which spans it, asalso to have a look at the Oreston quarries, from which the material forforming the breakwater was principally procured. 

On getting back to Catwater we found Dick and his traps waiting for us, so we quickly transferred him and them on board the Lively; while Olivertook up his quarters, by Uncle Tom's invitation, on board the Dolphin. As we had still daylight, and the tide suited, we got up our anchors andsailed down the Sound, steering for the western entrance, when we saw awhite light burst forth from the lighthouse at the end of thebreakwater. 

"Why, I thought it was a red light, " I observed. 

"So it is when turned seaward; but by having a white light looking upthe harbour, vessels know when they are well inside, " answered papa. 

As we ran out we passed a large fleet of fishing-boats also coming outof Cawsand Bay, which, before the breakwater was built, was the mostsecure anchorage during south-westerly gales. These boats were engagedin the whiting fishery. The fish are not only sold in Plymouth and theneighbouring towns, but are sent up in large quantities to the Londonmarket. 

Returning on board, we stood northward, that we might obtain a view ofthe coast as we sailed along. Dick and I remained on deck all themorning. At last we sighted Looe, the first town we had seen on theCornish coast. Looe stands at the mouth of a valley, at the bottom ofwhich runs a stream. It consists of East and West Looe--romanticforeign-looking places. The houses are grouped together irregularly, with whitewashed walls, stairs outside, green roofs and grey gables, with myrtles, geraniums, and other plants of a warm climate flourishingin their midst. West Looe is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, theirhumble cottages being scattered about without any respect to order. However, we obtained but a distant view of it. 

As the wind freshened up a little we stood on towards Fowey, passingLooe Island and Talland Point. Fowey is a place of far more importancethan Looe, although much of its ancient glory has departed. The townrises above the quay, and consists of a number of narrow, crookedstreets; and it has a quiet old market-house, a fine tower, and abuilding called the _Place_ House. The town owes much to a patrioticgentleman, Joseph Treffry, by whose means it has of late years beengreatly improved. 

Once upon a time, when Liverpool was a mere fishing-village, Fowey sentforth a large fleet to aid King Edward--no less than forty-seven ships, with seven hundred and seventy mariners, swelled the king's fleet. Often, too, the men of Fowey beat back their French invaders; indeed, the Place House was built as a fortress. 

On going out of Fowey we passed a number of coasters loaded with chinaclay, which is found in large quantities near this town. Arsenic alsois found in many of the Cornish mines. Persons employed in obtaining itsuffer greatly from its poisonous fumes. 

The flashing light of Saint Anthony's Point burst forth when we wereabout three miles from the entrance of Falmouth Harbour, and enabled us, with the assistance of the green fixed light on the breakwater, to takeup a safe berth inside. We had heard much of the beauty of Falmouth, and expected next morning to be delighted with its appearance. 

"Well, I really think I shall make a very good sailor, " said Dick, as wesat at supper, while the vessel lay at anchor in the calm harbour. "Ifeel as well as I ever did in my life. "

"You must take care not to pitch head foremost overboard, as you werenearly doing this morning, " observed Jack; "you might not be asfortunate as I was--to be picked up again. "

"Why, I forgot that there was the water between you and me; and when youshouted out I was going to run up and shake hands, " was the answer. 

The fact was that Dick, while we were near the Dolphin, was as nearly aspossible walking overboard, with the intention of getting on her deck, and would have done so had not Truck hauled him back. Dick had nonotion of which was the stem and which the stern of the vessel, or howthe wind acted on the sails; nor could he make out why we tacked; andseveral times he asked how it was that we did not sail directly towardsthe point to which we wished to go. 

"I say, what do you call that stick in the middle of the boat?" heasked, after he had been on board some hours; "and that other onerunning out at one end; and why has your uncle's vessel got two sticksand you only one; if one is enough, why should he have two?"

I explained that our vessel was a cutter, and that the Dolphin was aschooner, and that the stick running out at one end was the bowsprit, onwhich the jib was set to turn the head of the vessel either one way orthe other. 

"Nothing like asking questions, " observed papa, when we laughed at Dick. "Stick to the custom, my boy, and you'll soon know as much as theseyoungsters. A person who is afraid of asking questions remains inignorance. "

As may be supposed, Dick hit his head pretty hard against the beam abovehim several times before he learned to roll into his berth after themost approved fashion. 

Soon after daybreak we were on deck in our shirts, intending to jumpoverboard and take a swim. Jack and Oliver made their appearance at thesame moment on board the Dolphin, and shouting to us, overboard theywent, and came swimming up. I, pulling my shirt over my head, followedtheir example. Dick, forgetting to pull off his shirt, with wonderfulcourage--which arose, however, from ignorance--plunged after me, when toour dismay we discovered that he had no notion of swimming. I wasalready some distance from the side of the vessel. 

Poor Dick began splashing about, and striking out as he had seen me do;but, beginning to sink, he shouted out, "Help, help!"

Fortunately, Captain Truck saw him, and hove a grating close to him witha rope attached to it. 

"Hold on to this, young gentleman, until Master Harry comes to help you. Don't be afraid, and you'll be all right. "

Dick caught hold of the grating, and wisely did as he was advised. I, hearing his cries, had in the meantime turned round, and getting up tohim, took a rope which Truck heaved to me, and fastened it round hiswaist. 

"You are all right now, " I said; "but before you attempt to do anythingelse, learn to strike out with your feet with regular strokes. Pullyour knees up, and then shove them out horizontally even with thesurface of the water. There, that will do capitally; you see how fastyou shove the grating ahead. "

Truck on this slackened out more rope; and Dick, delighted, soon carriedthe rope out as far as it would go. Then, turning the grating round, Imade him push it back again towards the vessel. 

"Now rest a bit--just as I am doing, " I said; "don't move, but let yourlegs and body float up; just touch the grating with your arms stretchedout, and as much of your body as possible under the water. There, yousee, you float like a cork. Now you observe that, if you remainperfectly quiet, the water will float your body. All the grating nowdoes is to support your head; but if you were to turn on your back, andlet your head sink down into the water, with only your face above, thewater would support your head. "

Dick did as I suggested, and was quite surprised to find how perfectlyhe floated. 

"Now, you see, when swimming, you require only the movement of your armsto keep your head above water, although they also assist you to progressand to guide yourself; but the feet make most of the onward movement. Just try without the grating, and the rope will bring you up if yousink. "

Dick, who was quite rested again, did as I advised, and managed to getfrom one end of the vessel to the other, although it must be confessedthat more water ran down his throat than he found pleasant. I thenshowed him how he could tread water, by keeping his body perfectlyupright with his arms folded; here was a still greater surprise to him, and he was thus able to keep his chin well out of the water, andsometimes, by striking hard, to raise his shoulders even above thesurface. 

"This is capital!" he exclaimed. "Though I had read about swimming, Ihad no notion how it was done; and I could not have supposed it possiblethat water could float me so easily. I had tried several times in theponds, and nearly drowned myself. "

"Ah, but we have got the salt-water of the Atlantic here, which is farmore buoyant than the fresh water, " I observed. 

Dick was so delighted that it was with difficulty we could get him tocome on board again and dress for breakfast. 

"You'll make a first-rate swimmer in a few days, sir, " said Paul Truck, as he assisted him up the side. "I'll tell you why--you have no morefear than a Newfoundland dog. The reason people can't swim is that theyfancy that they can't; whereas, the Newfoundland dog knows that he can, and goes in and does it. "

Having dried myself, I ran down and brought up a clean shirt for Dick, who asked Truck to fasten his up in the rigging. 

"Better souse it out with fresh water first, or you wouldn't find itpleasant to put on again, " answered the captain, laughing; "the saltwould tickle your skin, I've a notion. "

"Not if it is dry, surely?" asked Dick. 

"Yes; you see the salt would remain. Why, you'd have as much salt inthat shirt as would serve you for dinner for a week if I was to, dry itin the sun without rinsing it out. Haven't you ever seen salt in theholes of the rocks?"

Dick had not, but I very frequently had. 

"How do you think that salt comes there?" asked Truck. 

Dick could not tell. 

"Why, it's just this: the sun draws up the fresh water, and doesn't drawup the salt, but leaves that behind. If it wasn't for that, we shouldhave salt rain; and a pretty go that would be; for all the trees, andplants, and grass would be killed, and vessels, when away from land andhard up for water, would not be able to get any. "

We had been so busy dressing that we had not had time to admire theharbour. We now agreed that it looked a very beautiful spot, withbright green fields and the white houses of the town, with PendennisCastle on the western point and Saint Mawes opposite to it. FacingFalmouth we could see Flushing, and church towers and villas on theshores of the river Fal away to the northward. 

On going on shore, however, the place did not appear quite soattractive, and the streets and alleys had a Wapping look about them, and were redolent of the odours of a seaport. But as we got out of themore commercial part, the town improved greatly. One of the mostinteresting buildings we visited was that of the Cornwall Sailors' Home, though there were many other fine public buildings. 

Pendennis Castle chiefly occupied our attention. It is of considerablesize. At one part is a round tower--the most ancient portion of thebuilding--erected in the time of Henry the Eighth. The works extendseaward, so that they guard the entrance to the harbour. We wanderedfrom bastion to bastion, gazing over the ocean two hundred feet belowus. The paved platforms, the heavy guns, and the magazines forammunition showed that the fortress was prepared for an enemy. Shouldone appear, may its garrison hold out as bravely as did that under thecommand of old John Arundel, a partisan of the Stuarts, when besieged bythe Parliamentary army, until the defenders and their brave captain werestarved into submission. 

We walked on along the shore until stopped by the Helford river--reallyan arm of the sea--which we crossed in a ferry-boat. We caught sight, in the far distance to the southward, of the Manacles, a group ofisolated rocks, on which more than one stout ship has been knocked topieces. All along were fine romantic cliffs, the views rewarding us forour exertions. We returned on board soon after sunset, and I employedthe rest of the evening in writing up my journal. 

CHAPTER FIVE. 

LAND'S END. 

A fine, bright morning found us outside the harbour, with the Manacleson our starboard bow, steering for the Lizard, which we hoped to roundbefore noon, so as to reach Penzance that evening. We passedsufficiently near the Manacles to distinguish their black heads standingwith threatening aspect high out of the water. 

"It was there, sir, a few years ago, a large ship--The John--was lostduring thick weather when making for Plymouth, and upwards of onehundred of her passengers and crew perished, " observed Truck, as hepointed out the rocks to us. "She had no business to be so close inshore, and that is all I can say. It is sad to think how many stoutships have been cast away on the rocks about here. When we set to theLizard we shall see the Stags. "

After passing the Lizard we kept the land close on board. As the windwas south-west, we sailed straight for Penzance. We could distinguishhigh and broken cliffs of a reddish hue extending the whole way to theLizard; when they disappeared we could perceive a low rocky pointrunning out towards the Stags. On the summit of the cliffs which formthe Lizard Head stand two lighthouses, two hundred and twenty-three feetapart. A covered passage runs between them, in the centre of which arethe residence and offices attached to the towers, so that the keeperscan communicate without being exposed to the fierce gales of winter. Each of the white towers is sixty-one feet high, and contains abrilliant fixed catoptric or reflecting light. 

The Lizard is the most southerly point of England, and although it isexposed to heavy gales the climate is very healthy. Just as we wereabout to round the Stags the wind shifted, and compelled us to standaway to the southward, by doing which we hoped, aided by the next ebb, to be able to steer direct for Penzance. 

Had we gone about at that time, we should have run the risk of beingdriven on the Stags, both wind and tide setting in that direction. Thewind became very light, and we made but slow progress. 

Our hopes of reaching Penzance gradually decreased as the day wore on, and yet, while the flood was making, it would have been folly to standtowards the shore. At length papa calculated that the tide had turned. We were on the point of putting the vessel's head to the northward whena thick mist, driving up from the chops of the Channel, completelyenveloped us, while the wind rapidly increased, as of course did thesea. 

Dick, who had been walking about with his hands in his pockets, nowsuddenly found himself jerked here and there, and was compelled to pullthem out to catch hold of anything which came in his way; sometimes astanchion, sometimes the side of the vessel, now and then Truck, or me, or the man at the helm. 

"Take care, my lad, you don't go overboard, " sang out papa. "You'dbetter turn in and keep out of harm's way. "

Dick, however, was too proud to do this. "No, thank you; I'd ratherstay on deck, " he answered. "I'll pull and haul, and help the sailorsin any way you like. "

"I won't ask you to do that; only sit down on the skylight, and should asea strike us hold on with your eyelids. "

Dick did as he was advised; at first he sat up, and looked very bold;but gradually he became paler and paler, and yellower and yellower, while his lip curled, and a groan every now and then escaped his breast. 

"Hulloa! what's become of the Dolphin?" I exclaimed, looking round, andnot seeing her anywhere. 

"She was away to leeward of us when I went down to tea, " observed Truck, who had just then returned on deck. "Where did you last see her?" heasked of the man at the helm. 

"Maybe a couple of hundred fathoms astern, sir; but I don't think more, "was the answer. 

We hailed the Dolphin, but there was no reply. "She was further offthan you supposed, " said papa, who had himself gone below for a fewminutes. 

We could not understand why they did not answer our hail, for they must, we thought, have heard us. As it was important to keep as close to thewind as possible, that we might be sure of weathering the Stags, wecould not run down to speak the Dolphin. Papa, however, felt sure thatUncle Tom would also keep as close to the wind as he could, with thesame object in view. 

We had by this time gone about, and were heading up towards the port wewished to reach. Papa judged that we were already near Mount's Bay. Dick had thrown himself down on deck, completely overcome. I wasstanding by him, urging him to get up and go below, when what was mydismay to see towering above us the dark hull and wide-spreading canvasof a large ship. 

"Steady! keep her as she goes!" papa shouted out. Had we attempted tokeep away, the stranger must have struck us on our quarter. Had weluffed up, she would have run completely over us, and we should havebeen carried to the bottom. I fully expected even then that such wouldbe the case. 

"Run forward, my lads!" he shouted out to Dick and me and the crew, while he himself seized the helm, making the helmsman throw himself flaton his back. All was the work of a moment. In another instant I hearda crashing and rending. Our boat was knocked to fragments, and thedavits carried away. I saw the bowsprit sweeping across our deck, tearing the mainsail as it did so, and carrying away back-stays andother rigging. 

Dick was shouting out, "What has happened? What are we going to do?"

"I hope to get rid of this craft!" cried Captain Truck, who havingseized an axe, followed by the rest of the crew, was cutting away at thestranger's bowsprit rigging. 

Happily, our gaff stood, although our topmast was carried away by herforeyard-arm, and came down with a crash on deck, papa narrowly escapingbeing struck. The next instant we were free. 

"You'll be on shore in a quarter of an hour if you steer your presentcourse!" shouted papa. "Steer to the south-east. "

"Ay, ay! Thank you, " came from the ship; "sorry to have run you down, but you've returned good for evil. "

"I pray that I may always do so!" answered papa; and the next instantthe stranger was lost to sight in the thick mist. 

We immediately hove-to, to get in the wreck of the topmast, and torepair damages. A piece of planking was nailed over the side which hadbeen stove in, and the fragments of the boat were stowed on deck. 

"I hope the Dolphin will escape that fellow, " observed Captain Truck. "If he doesn't alter his course he may run her down, and then, maybe, wreck himself on the Stags. "

"I am thankful to believe he has altered his course, " observed papa. "Iheard the order given; but I should like to fall in with the Dolphin, for we must run back to Falmouth and repair damages. She, probably, notknowing what has happened to us, will stand on to Penzance. We canreach Falmouth, however, much sooner than we can get there, and have thework done more rapidly. "

We accordingly kept away, and in a short time the Lizard Lights appearedthrough the mist at such a height that papa knew we were clear of theStags. After this we steered for Saint Anthony's Light, and soon camein sight of a green fixed light on the Prince of Wales' Breakwater, passing which before midnight we brought-up in safety in the harbour. 

"We have good reason to be thankful at having escaped the danger towhich we were exposed this evening, " observed papa, as we were takingsome supper in the cabin before turning in. "It is one to which yachtsas well as other vessels must always be exposed, especially at thepresent time, when so many steamers are running up and down. I shouldhave been happier had the Dolphin been with us; but I hope we may findher the day after to-morrow, as she is sure to wait at Penzance for us. "

The first thing in the morning we went on shore to get carpenters off torepair the bulwarks and make a new topmast. Papa found a boat exactlythe size we required, and purchased her, for it would have taken toomuch time to repair the damaged one. 

The carpenters made quick work. By daybreak the next morning, havingall again ataut, we sailed for Penzance. When we were well round theLizard, we fell in with a fleet of boats which had come off shore. Onlooking in the direction towards which they were pulling, we saw thewater curiously agitated. 

"They are after a school of pilchards, " said Captain Truck. "See howthe water glitters with them; if you look through your glasses at thetop of the cliffs, you will see a number of people with boughs in theirhands waving them. They have been on the look-out to give notice assoon as they caught sight of the school. When they see the first, theysing out `Heva;' but what it means I don't know, except to give noticeto the men in the boats. "

Meantime, the rowers were straining their muscular arms to the utmost, until they reached the school, when they immediately united the netsthey had on board; and thus starting from the same point, quickly beganto cast them out, until they formed a circle not less than two thousandfeet in circumference, in the midst of which we could see the shiningfish leaping and struggling in a mass together. 

Truck told us that the seine was about twelve fathoms deep, that it thusformed a wall, the upper part being supported by corks, and the lowerweighted by lead. 

While the circle was being formed, a third boat was employed in drivingthe fish toward the centre of the enclosure, as there was a risk thatthey might otherwise escape before it was completed. The wind was verylight, and the sea calm, so that we could watch the operation at ourleisure. The other boats, now fastened with long ropes to the seine, began slowly dragging it towards the shore, the fish, meantime, mostlykeeping in its centre. Now and then a few would make their escape byleaping over it, but the greater number did not appear to have the senseto do this. 

We followed them, as we knew where there was water for the nets theremust be water for us. At length, we saw them approach a sandy beach. Here the rowers ceased exerting themselves; but they did not attempt todrag the net on to the beach, for it would inevitably have been brokenthrough by the vast quantity of fish inside. Several smaller boats hadput off, the men in them carrying small nets and baskets. They nowcommenced what is called "tucking. "

The small nets were thrown out, each forming a circle, and the fishcaught in them were hauled on board in the ordinary way. The otherboats ladled out the pilchards with baskets. Each boat as she was ladenpulled back to the shore by a passage left open for her to pass through, which was immediately closed again. 

A number of women and lads, with creels on their backs, were collectedon the beach to carry the fish up to the curing-house, situated somelittle way off on the top of the downs. 

A considerable time was occupied in emptying the seine, for though nofish appeared on the surface of the water, the tucking nets brought up aconsiderable quantity which were swimming lower down. The whole of thevast net was then dragged up on the beach, when the fish which had beencaught in the meshes, or had before escaped capture, were secured. 

As the calm continued, papa took us on shore in the boat to visit thecuring-house; and we heard a great deal more about the pilchard fisheryfrom the men on the beach. We were surprised to find that the value ofthe fish caught in that single seine was estimated at fully six hundredpounds. Sometimes a thousand pounds' worth of fish is caught in oneseine. If the fishermen were always thus successful they would soongrow rich; but they often meet with misadventures. On one occasion alarge net full of fish was caught by the tide before it could be draggedon shore, and carried away against the rocks, when not only did the fishget free, but the net itself was almost destroyed. At another time, when a large school had been encircled, the fish making a dash togetherat one point, capsized the net and got clear over the top, not a quarterof the number remaining. Just before this, a seine had been securelymoored, when a ground swell setting in from the westward before the fishcould be taken out, the net was rolled over and over, and every fishescaped, while the net was utterly destroyed. 

The fishing-boats we met with in Mount's Bay are not only verypicturesque, with their brown-tanned sails, but are amongst the finestto be found anywhere; and they often ride out gales in which largervessels might founder. Their plan is, when caught in a heavy sea, toform a sort of breakwater of planks and spars, under the lee of whichthey ride with sufficient scope of cable. We were told of one, with acrew of five men, which performed a journey to Australia, having touchedat the Cape of Good Hope for water and fresh provisions. Since then, several small craft, with only a couple of men on board, have crossed toAmerica. On one occasion, a man, with his wife, came from the UnitedStates to England; but they both suffered severely from the privationsto which they were exposed. 

In the spring fishery the nets are shot near shore, off some sandyinlet, at sunset; and it is curious to note that the fish thus meshedare all on the inside of the net, but when they are meshed in themorning they are found on the opposite side. This proves that they comeinto shallow water during daylight, and go off again into deep water atnight. 

The people in this part of the country were at one time greatly addictedto smuggling, and many of their vessels were commanded by daringfellows, on whose heads a price had been set. Among the most desperateof these outlaws was Captain Wellard, who commanded the Happy-go-Lucky, carrying fourteen guns. For years he had carried on his trade withimpunity, and it was said he had vowed that he would never be caught. When, however, Samuel Pellew, a brother of Lord Exmouth, becamecollector of customs at Falmouth, he determined to put a stop to thisillicit traffic. Wellard had the audacity to issue notices, promising areward to any one who would kill the collector. Captain Pellew was notto be daunted, and sent out his cruisers in every direction to look forthe smugglers. At length two of the king's vessels, early one morning, found the Happy-go-Lucky at anchor, not far from Saint Michael's Mount. On seeing the royal cruisers, the outlaws cut their cables, and makingsail, stood out to sea. Undaunted by the vastly superior odds againstthem, the daring smugglers stood to their guns, and fought with abravery worthy of a better cause. For a whole hour--entertaining to thelast the hope of escape--they maintained the unequal contest. Theyknew, indeed, that if taken alive, they would to a certainty be hanged. At last Wellard fell, mortally wounded; but he held out as long as lifelasted. His mate was then killed, and twelve of his crew wounded, whenthe survivors were compelled to surrender, and the smuggling craft wascarried in triumph into Falmouth Harbour. Here the prisoners were shutup in Pendennis Castle; but their friends outside were not idle. Alarge body of armed smugglers soon collected, and breaking into thecastle, rescued the imprisoned outlaws, and at the same time carried offsome of the wounded who were lodged in the town. One man was too muchhurt to be moved, so he was left behind, and eventually sent to London, tried, and--having been captured red-handed--was hanged. This happenedonly at the end of the last century. 

We walked as far as the curious hollow in the earth called "The Devil'sFrying-pan. " It is like a vast crater, two acres in extent, two hundredfeet deep, and converging to an orifice at the bottom, some sixty feetin diameter. Round the upper edge we observed furze, gorse, and avariety of grasses growing in great profusion, but below was the barerock. Carefully creeping down, we noticed through the hole the shine ofthe water in the cavern beneath. We were wondering how this curiousaperture could have been formed, when papa explained that the ground wasonce level, but that there had been a cavern below it, which wasgradually increased by the roof crumbling away, and the _debris_ beingwashed out by the sea, until the rock became too thin to bear thesuperincumbent weight of earth, when the centre gave way, and sinkingdown, the surrounding earth followed, until it was formed into itspresent shape. The sea continually rushing in, again cleared out thecavern. As we were anxious to look up it, we hurried back to the boat, and the tide being suitable, we pulled in, and were able to look upthrough the hole down which we had before gazed. 

We afterwards visited two other extraordinary caverns, known as "DolorHugo, " and "Raven's Hugo, " up one of which we pulled for a considerabledistance. Grand and picturesque in the extreme were the cliffs aboveus, which in every variety of shape extend along the whole of the Lizardpeninsula. 

The curing establishment we found was much more extensive than we hadexpected it to be. It consists of a circular court, called a cellar, inside which the fish are piled up on the slabs running round the court. First, a layer of salt is spread, then a layer of pilchards, and soon--layers of pilchards and salt alternating until a vast mound israised. Below the slabs are gutters which convey the brine and oiloozing out of the fish into a large pit in the centre of the court. Upwards of three hundredweight of salt are used for each hogshead. After the pilchards have remained about a month, they are cleansed fromthe salt, and packed in hogsheads, each of which contains two thousandfour hundred fish, weighing four hundred and seventy-six pounds. Pilchards when thus cured are called "fair maids"--a corruption of_fumado_--the Spanish for smoked. Originally they were cured bysmoking, but salt preserves them much better. 

The fish are not always caught near the shore, for the school frequentlykeep out at sea, where the fishermen go in search of them. For thispurpose two descriptions of boats are employed; the largest measuresabout thirty tons, the other is much smaller. The fishermen use anumber of nets--about twenty in all--called a set, which are then joinedtogether; each is about forty feet deep, and one hundred and seventyfeet long. When united they form a wall three quarters of a mile inlength, though sometimes they are much longer. The fish are not caughtby being encircled, but by running their heads through the meshes, wherethey are held by the gills, which open in the water like the barbs of anarrow, and consequently cannot be withdrawn; their bodies being largerthan the meshes, they thus remain hanging, unable to extricatethemselves. 

At one end of this wall of nets a boat is secured, and drifts with thetide. Here she remains until it is supposed that all the fish coming inthat direction have either passed by or been caught. The fishermen thenbegin hauling in the net. The operation of hauling in nearly a mile ofnet, perhaps full of fish, is no easy task, especially when there is a"loppy" sea and the night is dark. This is, however, the most easy wayof catching pilchards, which can be pursued at nearly all times of theyear, for the fish swim about in small schools away from the shore, fromMay until winter is well advanced, when the water becoming cool, theyreturn westwards to a warmer climate in the depths of the Atlantic. Thefishermen told us that the most propitious time for fishing is whenthere is a loppy sea during a thick fog at night, as the pilchards donot then perceive the nets in their way, and swimming against them, arecaught. When the water is transparent, the fish, perceiving theluminous meshes, swim aside and escape. This appearance is calledbrimming. As it rarely occurs during twilight, the fishermen choosethat time for shooting their nets, and wait until dawn before haulingthem again into their boats. 

We could learn nothing about the natural history of pilchards; thefishermen did not appear to trouble their heads on the matter. Somesaid that they went away to far off regions during February, March, andApril, to deposit their spawn; others, that they went in search of food;but where they went to, none of them could venture to suggest. 

As we wished to get to Penzance before dark, should a breeze spring up, we returned on board. Sailing along very close to the coast, we cameoff Helston, situated on the inner side of a curious lagoon, separatedfrom the sea by a narrow spit of sand. Occasionally, in rainy seasons, when the streams which run into the lagoon cause the water to rise to aninconvenient height, so as to flood the shores, a narrow channel is cutin the spit; and the water rushing through it at tremendous speed formsa broad and deep passage, until the lake speedily sinks to its usuallevel. 

The breeze now freshening, we ran across the bay past Marazion, until wesighted Mousehole, on the western side. Near it was a large cavern inthe side of the cliff, from which the village is said by some to takeits name. Mousehole, though a small place, contained some gallant men, who, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, defended it bravely, under SirFrancis Godolphin, against an attack of four hundred Spaniards, who camein four galleys, and landing, did considerable damage to theneighbouring places. In its harbour we now saw a large fleet of boats, engaged in the pilchard and mackerel fishery. Not far off, on thesummit of a cliff, we observed two batteries, with guns mounted, to keepany enemy who might venture near at bay. 

Mackerel are caught much in the same manner as pilchards; but as theywill not keep, and are not so suitable for pickling, they are sent offimmediately to market. 

All along this coast are caverns, which we much wished to explore. Inthis neighbourhood also, up a valley which extends from a pretty littleplace called Lamorna Cove, is a place where a large amount of the finestgranite is quarried. 

Tacking when off Mousehole, we stood directly for Penzance. Approachingthe north shore, we had a fine view of Saint Michael's Mount, rising outof the blue water washing its base, crowned by its far-famed and ancientmonastery. 

Sailing on, we passed the white lighthouse at the end of the pier, anddropped our anchor in the sheltered harbour, where, to our greatdelight, we found the Dolphin. 

Uncle Tom, and Jack, and Oliver at once came on board, very thankful tofind that we had escaped all dangers. Uncle Tom said that he was on thepoint of sailing to look for us. We had just time to see the outline ofthe tower, its domed hall rising in its midst, with pretty villassurrounded by woods beyond, before the fast-gathering darkness shut themout of our view, while the twinkling lights from the old town and anumber of stone-vessels and other coasters and fishing-boats cast theirglimmer on the surface of the water. 

Penzance is a pretty and picturesque place, and is now an importantfishing-town. It is also celebrated as being the birthplace of SirHumphrey Davy. It has greatly improved since the last century, when itis said that the people refused to allow a mail coach road to beextended to their town, that they possessed but one carpet and one cart, and had not heard of silver forks; while the _Sherborne Mercury_ was theonly newspaper which circulated among them. When a stranger approached, the boys in the town invariably armed themselves with stones to fling athim, shouting out, "Whar do you come from? Be off, now!" John Wesleydid much to introduce the pure gospel among the inhabitants; and we sawseveral fine churches, in addition to a number of houses in which thefloors were undoubtedly carpeted. 

Next morning we put off in our two boats to visit Saint Michael's Mount, on which we landed on a stone pier, with a few houses near it. As wegazed upwards at the pile of buildings which crowns the summit of themount, we expected to find much interest in exploring its ancient hallsand passages. We were somewhat disappointed when, having made our wayup to the top, we found that it had been so greatly renovated as to bedeprived of much of its antique look. But it is a grand old pile--thetower, which rises in the centre, and is the most ancient portion, having been built in the fifteenth century. Although used as amonastery, it was strongly fortified; and guns round the walls stillremain, notwithstanding that they would be of little use in the presentday. We saw, just above the edge of a cliff, a curious and ancientcross, richly carved. The monks' refectory was, after the Reformation, turned into a banqueting hall; and the cornice which runs round itrepresents hunting scenes of boars, stags, wolves, and bulls. Obtaininga light, we descended by a flight of stairs, through a small door in theside of the wall, down to a low, dark vault, in which it was said thebones of a man were discovered when the vault was found, some years ago. Whether he had been shut up there by the monks, or had been a prisonerof war, it was difficult to determine. The vault was evidently used forthe purpose of concealing the treasure of the monastery. 

We afterwards climbed up by a narrow spiral staircase to the top of thetower, from whence we had a fine view over the whole of the bay and thesurrounding shores. On the summit are the remnants of a lantern whichwas formerly used as a beacon for the benefit of mariners entering thebay. This monastic castle, for such it should be called, has frequentlybeen besieged. On the last occasion it was held by Sir Francis Bassett, for Charles the First, when it was besieged by the Parliamentary forces;but he was at last compelled to capitulate, though as a reward for hisbravery he and his followers were allowed to retire to the ScillyIslands. Altogether, we agreed that it was one of the most interestingspots we had hitherto visited during our voyage. 

As we were anxious to see the Land's End, and could not approach thepoint in the yachts without risk, we determined to visit the famouspromontory by land. Engaging a carriage, we set off, making a circuitto see several curiosities on our way. First we stopped at a cave, apparently part of a fortification. Near it are two upright graniterocks, fifty yards apart, said to form the head and foot-stones of aCornish giant. 

"He must have been a tall fellow!" exclaimed Oliver, as he paced thedistance between the two stones. The site is called the Giant's Grave;and a countryman who met us declared that "Once upon a time, two giantsfought here, --for I don't know how many days, --until one had his skullknocked in by a club formed out of an enormous oak. "

Another legend assigns the name of "The Pipers" to them, because not faroff is a circle of nineteen stones, said to be the petrified bodies of anumber of damsels who spent the Sabbath in dancing instead of going tochurch. These stones were therefore called the Dancing Stones, or the"Merry Maidens. " Some time ago a farmer, to whom the field on whichthey stand belongs, wishing to get rid of them, commenced operations byharnessing a yoke of oxen to one of the damsels; but he was warned todesist, in consequence of one of the animals falling down dead. Sincethen they have remained unmolested, except by the hammers of amateurgeologists. 

Farther on we reached a fine headland called Castle Treryn, an anciententrenchment having occupied the whole area. On the summit stands thefamous Logan rocking-stone, which is said to weigh eighty tons. Puttingour shoulders under it, by some exertion we made it rock or move. Onceupon a time a Lieutenant Goldsmith of the Royal Navy--a nephew of theauthor of the _Vicar of Wakefield_--happening to land here, took it intohis head to try to dislodge the stone; and, somewhat to his dismay, probably, he succeeded in doing so completely. Over it fell, but didnot go rattling down the cliffs, as I had heard asserted, for it wouldthen have inevitably been broken to pieces. Still, as the stone was onthe ground, and could no longer rock, the people in the neighbourhoodwere highly incensed against the lieutenant, especially as visitors werenot likely to come as heretofore to the spot. They accordinglymemorialised the Admiralty, complaining of what had happened, andLieutenant Goldsmith was ordered to replace it. He thereupon erectedover it some vast shears, and by means of tackles ingeniously contrived, lifted back the stone on to the pivot on which it had before rested. He, however, found it impossible to poise it as nicely as before, andconsequently it is necessary to exert more strength to make it move thanwas required before it had been tumbled over. To make some amends tothe people, the gallant lieutenant replaced another stone of a similarcharacter which had fallen from its position. 

We passed numerous very small cottages built with enormous stones. Theyhave diminutive windows, which will not open--this style of architecturebeing necessary to resist cold and the fierce gales which blow acrossthe narrow peninsula. As we proceeded, trees grew scarcer and scarcer. At last we came to a tavern with a sign-board, on the east side of whichwas painted "The last refreshment house in England;" and on the other, facing the Atlantic, "The first refreshment house in England. "

Among the many pretty coves we saw was one called Vellan Dreath, or theMill in the Sand; but not a vestige of the mill remains. Once upon atime it was inhabited by a bold miller and his stout son. One morning, as he was looking seawards, just as he was about to turn on the water tomove his mill, he observed above the sea-mists the masts of a tall ship. What object she had in coming so near the coast he could not divine;but it was as well to be cautious, lest she should prove an enemy. Going down to the edge of the water, he listened, when he heard thesound of oars, indicating the approach of a boat, and voices whichsounded strange to his ears. Calling to his son, he summoned him backinto the mill, the door of which he closed. A hole formed for liftingthe latch enabled him to look out, when he saw a party of Spaniards withlong guns coming towards the mill. On this, running the muzzle of hispiece through the hole, he ordered the enemy to keep off; but as they--regardless of his warning--still came on, he fired, and knocked one ofthem over. After he had fired, the Dons retired to a distance; but itwas pretty evident that they intended to attack the mill. On this, being certain that the small garrison could not hold out, and seeing theenemy again approaching, he set fire to a rick of furze, and while thewind blew the smoke in the faces of the Spaniards, he and his son, eachtaking a sack of flour on their shoulders, issued out through a backdoor and made their way up the hill. They had got some distance up thesteep ascent before they were discovered by the Spaniards, who thenbegan firing at them. The gallant millers made their escape, but theold man received a wound of which he ultimately died. The son declaredthat his sack, from the number of bullets in it, was far heavier thanwhen he set out. 

Near it is Sennen Cove, where there is a fishing-village and aCoastguard station. Some way off the shore, rising from amid thefoaming waves, is a high rock, denominated "The Irish Lady, " from thepeculiarity of its form, which is that of a female figure, with a longrobe, advancing into the sea. We were told that many years ago an Irishvessel was driven on the rocks; but that one female alone was seenclinging to the wreck until the waves washed her away, and that it isher figure which now appears still surrounded by the foaming billows. 

"I wonder she hasn't got tired of standing out there all by herself!"exclaimed Dick. 

Another rock in the same neighbourhood, far out in the sea, is called"The Armed Knight. " It is a magnificent pile, two hundred feet inheight. The summit, from the point we saw it, assumes the profile of aman's head, while the regular way in which the blocks of granite joineach other has much the appearance of armour. As Dick observed, he musthave been related to the giant whose grave we had visited. 

Later in the day we reached what we were assured was the Land's End, although other rocks appeared to project as far westward into the ocean. It was a grand scene. In all directions were headlands, crowned bywhat appeared to be ruined castles and towers, rocks scattered around, piled up into a variety of fantastic shapes; while afar off we coulddistinguish the faint outline of the Scilly Islands. Imagination mightpicture them as some fairy land, likely at any moment to vanish, thoughwe had little doubt that they would remain to let us pay them a visit. A few hundred yards off is a headland called "Doctor Johnson's Head, "because the rocks at the extremity present somewhat the appearance of ahuman face with massive features, like those of the great lexicographer. The point is surmounted by an oval boulder, which is so easily poisedon one point that it rocks far more easily than the better known LoganRock. 

Land's End itself consists of a mass of granite which extends in a loftyridge far into the sea, the summit crowned by rocks which have theappearance of some vast castle. Indeed, so curiously-shaped are therocks in this neighbourhood, that they have generally an artificialappearance. 

Many years ago, a party of officers had come to Land's End on a visit ofinspection. Two of them proposed riding down the slope towards theextreme point, which has perpendicular precipices on both sides. Athird officer--Captain, afterwards General, Arbuthnot--dismounted, andled his horse after his companions, considering that the place was toodangerous to ride down. After enjoying the view for some time, theparty proposed returning, when Captain Arbuthnot, believing that therewould be no danger in riding up, mounted to follow his companions. Scarcely, however, was he in his saddle, than his horse, a spiritedanimal, became restive, and began to kick and plunge, inclining to theprecipice on the right side. In vain its rider tried to show the animalher danger; to his horror, he found that her feet were close to theprecipice. He had just time to throw himself off, and clear his feetfrom the stirrups, when over she went down the cliff, and was dashed topieces, leaving him on the slippery sward close to the edge of theprecipice. The spot where the accident occurred is still shown. 

Two miles off Land's End, on a mass of rocks which rise some seventyfeet above the surface at low water, stands the Longships Lighthouse, the summit of which is fifty-six feet above the rock. The tower isdivided into three stories. In the lower is kept provisions, with waterand coal; the second is a cooking-room and oil-store: while the third isa sleeping-room. The lantern consists of a brilliant catoptric fixedlight, produced by nineteen Argand lamps. It was built in 1793 by a MrSmith. Before the granite blocks of which it is composed were broughtto the rock, they were hewn out and put together at Sennen Cove. Thestones are dovetailed one into the other, and are secured by oaktrennels strongly cemented. Often, when a storm is raging, the wavesbeat completely over the structure; indeed, when any wind is blowing, itis surrounded by masses of foam. Four men belong to the lighthouse, three always remain in it, and one goes on leave every twenty-eightdays, when the weather permits; but this, during the winter season, isvery often impossible; and sometimes for weeks together the man on shorecannot get off. 

During a storm, some years ago, so furious were the waves, that thelantern was broken in, and the keepers fully believed that the wholestructure would be washed away. We heard of an inspector who hadvisited the rock during fine weather, and who had begun to find greatfault with the large stock of provisions kept in the storehouse. Beforethe cutter which brought him could return, a heavy gale sprang up, andhe himself was kept a prisoner for nine weeks, after which thelighthouse-keepers heard no more complaints as to the quantity of foodkept in store. 

The bright light, which burst forth from the top of the white tower, warned us to beat a retreat. 

Not far from Land's End we found another inn, which looked much out ofplace in that wild region. Dick declared that it should be called "Thefirster and laster inn in England, " it having been built some time afterthe one we had previously passed. As it was too late to return toPenzance that evening, we took advantage of it, and put up there for thenight, that we might visit some mines and other interesting spots in theneighbourhood. 

The first thing in the morning we set off to visit the Botallack mine, the machinery of which we could see perched among crags that lookedalmost inaccessible. We had not time to go into the mine, which iscarried far under the ocean. In some places there is not more than sixor eight feet between the roof of the galleries and the water. Once thesea broke into it; but the hole was plugged and the water pumped out. On another occasion, a party of miners discovered a magnificent piece ofore little more than three feet below the ocean. The treasure temptedthem to risk their lives to obtain it. They cut it out, andsuccessfully filled up the hole. It is said that so terrific is thenoise during heavy weather, when the waves dash in on the shore, androll the pebbles backwards and forwards, that even the bold miners arecompelled to rush out, unable to endure the uproar. The scene was mostextraordinary. Vast pumps appeared amid the cliffs, unceasingly drawingup water, which rushed in a red torrent into the sea. Steam and smokewere spitting out in all directions; and men, women, and boys wereemployed in sorting the ore as the kibble brought it to the surface. This was only one of many similar mines along the coast. Havingsatisfied our curiosity, we drove back to Penzance; and at once repairedon board the yachts, as papa and Uncle Tom were unwilling to lose moreof the fine weather. 

Without a moment's delay, the anchors were got up, and we made sail outof Mount's Bay. 

CHAPTER SIX. 

A SHIPWRECK. 

On passing Rundlestone, a hidden rock upwards of a mile from thesouthern shore of the Land's End peninsula, we came in sight of the WolfRock, about ten miles off the coast. It was one of the greatest dangersin the English Channel, for the beacon placed on it was not visible atnight or during thick weather. Attempts were made to fix bells on therock, which might be rung by the waves dashing against them; but thefirst gale quickly carried away the well-intentioned contrivance. 

Now, however, a lighthouse has been erected of great strength andmassiveness, to endure the fierce battering it must encounter from theangry billows. The wind shifting against us, we had a good view of theWolf Rock, and afterwards of the Longships Lighthouse, the white towerof which, rising above its black base, can be seen afar off. 

It was with difficulty that we could distinguish Land's End from theneighbouring headlands, Cape Cornwall, to the northward, apparentlyapproaching further into the ocean. 

As we looked at that fearful Wolf Rock, we thought of the number ofvessels, out of their reckoning, homeward-bound, or coming round fromthe North Sea, intending to proceed up the Irish Channel, which musthave run against it in days gone by. But now the red and white"flashes" which follow each other at half-minute intervals all throughthe night, enable mariners to steer clear of the danger. 

Papa remarked: "I wish that every Christian man would remember that heis bound to be a lighthouse, and to warn his fellows of the peril intowhich they are running. How many human beings would thus be saved fromshipwreck, if all thus understood their duty and acted accordingly!Remember the text--`Let your light so shine before men, that they maysee your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven. '"

Papa told us it was the opinion of geologists that the surroundingrocks, as well as the Scilly Isles, were once connected with England. Indeed, of that there can be no doubt. Tradition declares that articleshave been fished up proving that cities once stood on spots over whichthe tides now ebb and flow; but then tradition is the most uncertain ofall uncertain things. Although an iron kettle may have been fished upfrom the bottom of the sea, it might only show that it had been thrownoverboard, or washed out of a sunken vessel. 

As we had determined not to be defeated, we continued beating backwardsand forwards until we saw the coast of Cornwall, and the bright beams ofSaint Agnes' Lighthouse appeared on our port-bow; while those from thelight-vessel moored off the Seven Stones were seen on the other. 

We hailed the Dolphin, which passed us on the opposite tack; and papaagreed to lead in; "The sooner we are in the harbour the better, " heobserved; "I don't quite like the look of the weather. "

Clouds had, indeed, been thickly gathering in the south-west; and thestars, which had hitherto shone brightly, were totally obscured. Thewind also, which had been steady, now began to blow in strong squalls, compelling us to shorten sail. First, two reefs were taken down in themainsail; it was then closely-reefed, while the foresail was hauleddown, and the storm jib set. Still, it was as much as the cutter coulddo to look up to it. Heavy seas now began to roll in from the Atlantic, tumbling the cutter about. Now she rose to the summit of a foam-crestedwave, now she sank down into the hollow. 

"Will she ever come up again?" exclaimed Dick, who was clinging on tothe companion hatch. "Oh, dear--oh, dear! I thought the sea was alwaysgoing to remain as smooth as it has been since we sailed. "

Presently, up we rose again, and Dick drew a long breath. Papa, however, advised him to go below. 

"We will look after the craft in the meantime, my boy, " he said. "Thereis nothing to fear, though it is possible that one of these seas maybreak on board, and if you are not on the look-out, may carry you away. "

A flash of lightning which now burst forth from a dark cloud, accompanied by a heavy squall, causing the cutter to heel over until herlee bulwarks were almost under water, revealed Dick's terrifiedcountenance. As may be supposed, he clung on the harder to thecompanion hatch; and papa had to repeat his advice and help him down theladder. 

"You'd better go too, Harry, " he said. "I can't answer for a sea notcoming on board; and it might tear even you from your hold. Those whoremain on deck will secure themselves with lashings; and as the craft isas light as a cork, we shall weather out the gale, even should it comeon to blow twice as hard as it now does. "

I begged to be allowed to remain. 

"Well, it will be but a summer gale. You may stay on deck; but here, make yourself fast with this rope;" and papa secured one round my body, which he fastened to the companion hatch. 

He now gave the word to set the trysail; and the mainsail being stowed, it was hoisted in its stead. Still we had as much sail as the cuttercould carry. The night had become very dark, except when the flashes oflightning dashed from the black clouds. Papa had resolved to heave thevessel to, when we caught sight of a white sail a short distance aheadof us. 

"That must be the schooner, " shouted Truck; "she is taking a wisecourse, and is intending to run under Cape Cornwall, or maybe to getinto Saint Ives Bay, in case the gale should continue. "

"We may as well do the same, " observed papa; and the helm being put up, away we ran before the wind. 

Though the cutter behaved very well, still there was a chance of ourbeing pooped. A strong current was setting us in the direction of theLongships light, which now appeared broad on the starboard bow. We ranon, following, as we supposed, the Dolphin; but she was going fasterthan we were, and we soon lost sight of her. We knew our exactposition, for, although we had got beyond the gleam of Saint Agnes'Lighthouse, we could still see on our port-bow the two lights on boardthe light-vessel off the Seven Stones. I own I wished that we were safeback in port, though papa appeared so cool that I could not supposethere was any real danger; still, as the seas came rolling up on eitherquarter, high above our deck, it seemed impossible that the vessel couldescape being swamped. 

At last papa peremptorily ordered me to go below, and coming to where Iwas standing, lifted up the hatch and literally pushed me down, closingit again over me. I groped my way into the cabin, where I found Dickholding on to one of the sofas. The cabin lamp had not been lighted, sothat we were in perfect darkness. 

"Oh! where are we? Where are we going? What's about to happen?" heexclaimed, in a weak voice, which I could barely hear amid the uproarcaused by the seas dashing against the vessel's sides and deck, thecreaking of the bulk-heads, the whistling of the wind, and other sounds. 

"Papa says there is no danger; so you need not be alarmed, Dick, " Iobserved. At the same time I confess that I felt far from comfortablemyself. Poor Dick was dreadfully sick. I had to assist him as best Icould; but I need not enter into particulars. His sickness overcame histerror. Every now and then, however, he cried out, "Oh, I wish I was onshore! couldn't your papa land me? If he cannot, please ask him tothrow me overboard. Oh, how miserable I am! Oh dear, oh dear!" andthen for certain reasons he could not utter a word. 

Having to attend to him made me think perhaps less of our situation; butI know that I was not at all happy. All sorts of dreadful thoughts cameinto my mind. Every instant I expected to hear a tremendous sea comerushing over our deck, and perhaps to find that papa or some of the menhad been washed away. I was most anxious about papa. If he was lost, Ibelieved that the vessel would be lost too; but then I remembered what agood sailor he was; and as he had been to sea all his life, he was sureto manage the vessel properly; and, as he had often said, she was such atight little sea-boat she would go through anything. Still, we were ina part of the ocean where the tide runs with great force, and whenmeeting the wind a very awkward sea is beaten up. This made the cuttertumble about in a way I had never known her do before. Everything inthe cabin had been securely lashed except a few books and charts. Firstone came flying out as the vessel rolled over, and hit poor Dick on thehead. 

"What a shame of you to be heaving books at me, Harry!" he cried out. 

I assured him that I was innocent of anything of the sort; and presentlyanother flew out, and nearly knocked me over. I tried to reach thebooks, to secure the remainder: but the whole lot came tumbling out, andsent me sprawling on the cabin floor. I picked myself up, and crawledback to assist Dick, who just then greatly required my support. 

I cannot describe more of that fearful night. Finding that Dick wastolerably quiet, advising him to hold fast to the sofa, I lay down atthe opposite end, where I clung on like grim death; and, in spite of thetossing and tumbling the vessel was undergoing, I at length fell asleep. I cannot say I was very fast asleep, for I was conscious all the timethat something very unpleasant was taking place. 

Occasionally I fancied that I was being tossed in a blanket by myschoolfellows, who were jeering round me as I entreated to be let down;then that a wild bull was throwing me up in the air, and was about tocatch me on his horns. Then that I was on a raft danced up and down bythe foaming waters. Now, that I was on deck, and was pitched overboard, and left to struggle alone amid the raging seas. My voice--as I shoutedout for help--awoke me; and to my infinite satisfaction I found that thevessel was much steadier than she had hitherto been. In a short timedaylight gleamed through the bull's eyes on deck, and getting up, I mademy way to the companion hatch. Just before I reached it, it was liftedup, and papa put his head down. 

"All right, my lads, " he said; "we are under the lee of the land, andthe wind has greatly moderated. In a short time, if it continues to befine, we shall be able to haul up and beat back to Scilly. How isDick?"

"He has been very ill; but he is now fast asleep; and it would be a pityto awaken him, " I answered as I got up on deck. 

I looked round, and could see the land on the starboard side bearingsouth and east. The Longships Lighthouse was no longer in view. Icould make out a cape, which papa said was Cape Cornwall, to thesouthward. I looked out for the Dolphin, but she was nowhere to beseen. 

"I am rather puzzled about her, " said papa; "she could scarcely have runus out of sight. Perhaps the vessel we saw last night was a strangerbound up the Bristol Channel; still, she was closer in shore than wasadvisable. Possibly the Dolphin remained hove-to, or if not, perhapsshe bore up before we did, and is already safe at anchor in Saint IvesBay. We must make the best of our way there. Hand me the glass. "

I took the telescope from the bracket on which it hung inside thecompanion hatch, and gave it to him. He looked earnestly for a minutetowards some high rocks which were at some distance from the land. 

"I feared so, " he observed; "there's a vessel on the rocks, with hermasts gone; but she's much too high for the Dolphin, or I should havesupposed it was that. We will stand in closer and have a look at her;we shall find less sea there, and the wind has gone down so much and theweather is so evidently improving, that we shall run no unnecessarydanger. What do you think, Truck?"

Papa had handed the glass to Truck, who was looking through it. 

"If anybody is left alive, we may have a chance of taking them off, "answered Truck. "As the wreck lies, she is not likely to be seen fromthe shore, and the people may perish before they can receiveassistance. "

As soon as it was settled that we should do so, the trysail was lowered, and the mainsail, with a couple of reefs down, was set, with a biggerjib and foresail. We now stood in towards the rocks. As we drewnearer, we saw that the wreck was that of a large vessel, and that sheso lay as to be partially sheltered from the heavier seas, which musthave been raging when she struck. The depth of water, however, wouldprevent us anchoring. Papa proposed to heave the cutter to while theboat pulled in under the lee side of the rock, whence he hoped to beable to communicate by means of lines with the people on board, shouldany still remain alive. 

As we drew still nearer, I took the glass, and turning it towards thewreck, I could distinguish a number of people on the fore part, whichwas the least battered, from having been more protected than the stern. I spied out a man who had climbed to the upper part of the bulwarks, andwas waving a handkerchief or towel. 

"She went on shore at high-water, and the tide left her where she is. When it returns it will wellnigh cover her; and as those poor peoplewill be washed off, there is no time to be lost, " observed Truck. 

Papa agreed with him. We had a long way to beat back to where the wreckwas lying. Those on board probably knew their danger. How anxiouslymust they have looked out for our coming!

It was a question whether we could get near the vessel. Papa orderedall the spare rope we possessed to be coiled away in the boat, and hehad one of our round life-buoys, slung by four ropes, fastened to ablock--the largest we had on board. This formed a cradle, by which, ifnecessary, we could haul the people from the wreck to the boat, could weonce get close enough to pass a rope on board. 

At length, getting sufficiently near to leeward of the rock, we hove-to, when, greatly to my satisfaction, papa allowed me to go and steer, whilehe, with two hands, went in the boat, leaving Truck and Dick to managethe vessel. We first pulled round to where the wreck lay; but papa wassoon convinced that we could not approach her on the weather-sidewithout great risk of being swamped. Papa hailed, and made signs thatwe were going round on the lee side of the rock; we there found a littlecove, or bay, into which we could pull and remain without risk bysecuring the boat with a grapnel. 

Carrying the line and the cradle, we made our way over the rock until wegot abreast of where the vessel lay. The distance was considerable, andthe water whirled and surged round and round in a way which would makeswimming difficult; still I had often swum much further. 

"Let me carry a line, " I said to papa. "I think I can do it, if no oneon board will undertake to swim to the rock. "

We shouted to the people, who, strange to say, did not hear us; nor hadthey seen us come over the rock, for they had all been looking seaward. Two or three of the men at length appeared on the side nearest us; butwhen we called on them to swim on shore, they shook their heads, evidently not liking to make the attempt. The tide was now flowingfast, and their position was every instant becoming more perilous. It, however, made the passage less dangerous, as even in a few minutes thewater became smoother than it had hitherto been. 

The people on board threw an oar, with a line fastened to it, into thewater; but it was carried sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, and did not approach the rock. 

"I am sure I can do it, papa, " I said, at length. "Just fasten a lineround me, and I shall be able to get hold of that oar. You can soonhaul me back. "

Papa no longer refused my request, and having stripped, and fastened arope round my waist, I plunged in, and struggled hard to make waythrough the hissing water. Sometimes I found myself carried onwardstowards the stern of the vessel, but another sea brought me back again;and in a few minutes, greatly to my satisfaction, I clutched hold of theoar, when, securing the end of the rope which held me round it, I sungout to papa and the men to haul away. In a short time I was broughtback close to the rock. My chief danger was in landing, as the sea attimes beat violently against it; but papa, quickly seizing me, hauled meup. 

"You have acted bravely, Harry, " he said. "Now put on your clothes, andwe shall soon have a communication with the vessel. "

While I was dressing, the rope with the cradle was hauled up to the sideof the vessel, and secured to a stanchion; when the crew, getting up astouter warp, shouted out to us to haul it in, they having secured thecradle to it. We thus had a safe communication established with thewreck, and a stout line to draw the cradle backwards and forwards. 

Greatly to our surprise, a female was the first person we drew ashore;she burst into tears as we lifted her out of the cradle. Another andanother followed; two had infants in their arms; and then came twolittle boys secured to the cradle. Three men followed, each with achild. 

"Have all the women and children landed?" asked papa. 

"All who have escaped, " was the answer. "Several were washed away withthe master and two mates. --"

Six more men now came, the sole survivors of the crew. 

"Are all hands out of the ship?" asked papa. 

"Every soul, sir, " answered one of the men. 

There was no time to make inquiries as to how the vessel was wrecked. We heard that she was a homeward-bound barque from the United States, and that the passengers on board were returning to see their friends. We hurried over to the leeside of the rock, and at once embarked the twowomen with the infant, who seemed to be totally exhausted. 

As soon as we got alongside, we lifted them on board, where papa and Iremained, he sending the boat back with our two men. Truck had lightedthe galley fire, and we soon had some hot broth for the poor creatures, who, having taken off their wet clothes, got into our beds. Papa thenlooked out all the blankets, and we made up as many beds as we could onthe sofa and cabin deck. 

By this time the boat had returned with the remaining women andchildren. She made no less than seven trips before all were broughtoff; and, as may be supposed, our little vessel was pretty well crowded. Even the men were in a greatly exhausted state, and could not do muchfor themselves. Papa, however, seemed to think and act for everybody. 

As soon as all were on board, we hoisted in the boat, and the wind beingfair, having shaken out the reefs in the mainsail, we steered for SaintIves. Dick, who was not fit for much when we first left the vessel, hadnow recovered, and assisted in getting off the wet clothes from ouryoung passengers, and in carrying round food. 

The cabin presented a curious appearance, with the people stowed asthickly as herrings in a cask, all wrapped up in blankets and peacoats. Fortunately, the water was smooth under the lee of the land; but thenumber of people on board brought the vessel much below her usualbearings. 

"I am thankful we have not a long voyage to make, or we should soon beshort of provisions, " said papa, as we got out tin after tin of soup andmeat. 

The soft bread and fresh beef we had taken on board at Penzance weresoon consumed by the women and children, who speedily rallied from theirexhaustion. 

The wind, however, fell very light, and there appeared to be a prospectof our not being able to get in that night. 

On inquiry, papa found that the master and first mate of the wreckedship had been tipsy for some days, and had quarrelled desperately witheach other, and the second mate, interfering, had been nearly killed. They had got completely out of their course, and none of them knew wherethey were. They had been bound for the Thames. The men said that whenthey saw the Longships they fancied that it was the Eddystone, and thatwhen they struck they supposed that they were not far off PlymouthBreakwater, though they were wondering why they did not see the light. 

"It is one of the many sad examples we have had of the effects ofdrinking, " observed papa. "If I had to make a voyage, I should choose atemperance vessel. Though a master may appear sober enough in portunder the eyes of his owners, unless he is a temperate man, one cannever tell what he may do at sea. "

On further inquiries we found that nearly half the crew were as tipsy astheir officers, and that they, with the cabin passengers who hadremained aft, had been washed away. The people saved were steeragepassengers, with the exception of one little boy, whose parents andfriends had perished. However, the satisfaction of having been themeans of saving the lives of these poor people was to us very great. Wewere of course greatly interested in the boy, Nat Harvey, who was aboutsix years old. Poor little fellow, he had been so frightened that hewas not fully aware of what had occurred, and did not appear fully torealise his loss. He seemed to think that his papa and mamma, and hisAunt Fanny and brother and sister, had gone off in a boat, and that heshould see them again before long. He kept continually asking why theywere not with us. When he heard that we were going to Saint Ives, hesaid that he hoped we should find them there. One of the women, with akind heart, had taken him under her charge, and she sat on the cabinfloor holding him in her arms with his head resting on her lap, everynow and then speaking words of comfort, and endeavouring to get him togo to sleep. Papa inquired from the passengers and crew if they knewanything of his family, or where they were going. No one could say whatpart of the States Mr and Mrs Harvey, with three children and a younglady, who was sister either to Mr or Mrs Harvey--these were theirnames--had come from. 

"We can't turn the poor child adrift among strangers, " observed papa. "We must take him with us, and try to find out his friends. "

"Oh pray do!" Dick and I exclaimed. "I'll look after him, and keep himout of mischief, " added Dick. 

At last papa agreed that the best thing he could do for the child was tokeep him on board, unless some kind person of influence at Saint Iveswould take charge of him, and endeavour to find out his friends. 

When speaking of the way the wreck occurred, papa said he was notsurprised, as he had known an instance of the master of a vessel whowith his mate had got drunk, and who had managed to take his vessel tothe south of Jersey, while all the time he fancied that he was among theScilly Islands. 

The wind had fallen, and we feared that a calm would come on and keep usall night, which would have been a great trial to our poor passengers. It was therefore with much satisfaction that, the wind holding fair, wecame in sight of the peninsula on which part of Saint Ives is situated, the remainder being on the mainland on the south side of Saint Ives Bay. 

The water was smooth, the sky bright, and as papa looked at the town heexclaimed--"Why, I could almost fancy myself among the Greek islands, soexactly does the place, in its form and picturesque beauty, remind me ofa Greek village. "

We stood on until, running under a battery which defends the town on theseaside, we anchored off a pier. The view was indeed highlypicturesque. The town has an ancient appearance, the houses being builtwithout any regard to order, many of them looking as if destined erelong to tumble down. Then our eyes wandered round the deep bay, on thesurrounding broken ground, and the commanding cliffs, lighted up by therays of the setting sun, which cast a dark shadow over the town itselfon the western side. 

Papa, hastening on shore, immediately applied to the authorities, whoreceived the shipwrecked crew. The poor people expressed theirgratitude for the service we had rendered them; and papa, to assist themstill further, healed a subscription which was raised in the town fortheir relief. 

We were very thankful when we got them all on shore. We looked out onentering the bay for the Dolphin; but among the various vessels whichhad brought-up there, she was not to be seen; and on inquiring on shorewe could gain no tidings of her. Papa now thought, or hoped, as he hadat first supposed, that she had got safely into Saint Mary's. 

Of course our cabins had not been improved by being occupied by so manypassengers. We therefore slept on shore, that our bedclothes might bewashed and the cabin cleaned; and we had also to replenish our stock ofprovisions, which had been almost exhausted. Papa's first care was toarrange an outfit for little Nat, as he had only the garments he wore. We soon had him rigged out in a regular sailor's suit, with a piece ofcrape round his arm, for we could find no black clothes ready. Hefrequently asked for his papa and mamma, as well as for his Aunt Fanny. 

"You must not expect to see them, my boy, " answered papa; "but we willtake care of you; and Harry here will give you your lessons, as I daresay you do not wish to be idle. "

"Oh yes, I like lessons. Aunt Fanny used to teach me, " answered Nat;"but if she doesn't come back soon I should like to learn of Harry. "

I gladly promised to be his tutor while he remained on board, and feltnot a little proud of the position. I at times fancied that he had asuspicion of what had happened to his friends. The first time we werealone together he looked up into my face, while the tears sprang intohis eyes, as he said, "Do you know, Harry, that I am afraid that the seawashed papa and mamma and Aunt Fanny and dear Reuben and Mary away? Idon't like to ask, because I am afraid of anybody telling me that Ishall never see them again. "

I had not the heart to say that his suspicions were correct, so I atonce got out a book and said, "Come, Nat, you shall read to me, then Iwill read to you, and then we will talk about what we have read. " I didthe same whenever he again mentioned the subject. 

Saint Ives itself was soon seen. There is a church standing so close tothe sea that when there is a strong wind it is almost covered withspray. Most of the inhabitants are engaged in the pilchard and herringfishery. 

We made an excursion along the coast to visit the ruins of the church ofPerranzabuloe, supposed to be the most ancient in Britain. It had forcenturies been covered up by the sand. We had left Nat under the chargeof the landlady, and engaged a boat to carry us round to visit theseinteresting ruins. After a long pull we landed up a little creek, nearwhich stand two rocks, known as "The Old Man and his Wife. " Near athand was a small fishing-village, in the neighbourhood of which wevisited an ancient amphitheatre, still wonderfully perfect. We hereobtained a guide to conduct us to the church. It must be understoodthat the whole shore is covered with fine sand, which is moved in awonderful manner by northerly winds. It has gradually swept over thecountry, destroying vegetation and covering up buildings as effectuallyas has been done by ashes from burning mountains. The progress of thesand is sometimes gradual and almost imperceptible; at other times, inthe course of a gale, whole villages have been overwhelmed, allowing theinhabitants scarcely time to escape. Such was the case with thisancient church and the surrounding habitations. So completely had thesand swept over it, that it had quite disappeared; and it was only, after the lapse of centuries, discovered about forty years ago, though atradition existed in the neighbourhood that a church had once stoodthere. It was discovered by a Mr Mitchell, who, undeterred bydifficulties, succeeded in removing a mass of sand and exposing thebuilding which had so long been covered up. The masonry is rude, butthe walls are solid and complete. The interior was perfectly free fromthe modern accompaniments of Roman Catholic places of worship. Therewas no rood-loft, no confessional, no pictures of the Virgin and saints, nothing to indicate the unscriptural adoration of the wafer, or massesfor the dead. The most diligent search was made for beads and pyxes, censers and crucifixes; not a fragment of either could be discovered. At the eastern end we saw a plain, unornamental chancel; in the nave arestone seats attached to the walls. 

Near the church were discovered three skeletons, one of giganticdimensions, the second of moderate size, and the third apparently thatof a female; and the wind blowing off the sand, the ground around wasfound covered with human bones. 

We were deeply interested with our visit to this ancient church, whichtends to prove that our ancestors worshipped God in simplicity andtruth, and that they knew nothing of the forms and ceremonies of Rome. 

With regard to these sand-dunes we heard a curious circumstance, thateven a narrow stream will stop the advance of the sand, which willaccumulate on its banks, but has not the power to cross to the oppositeside. 

On returning on board, we found that our stock of provisions hadarrived, that our blankets were dried, and the cabin cleaned out. Wetherefore immediately got under weigh, and stood out for the bay. 

"What!" exclaimed Dick, "is this the Saint Ives I've heard of all mylife?" and he repeated--

 "As I was going to Saint Ives I met a man with seven wives; Seven wives had seven sacks, Seven sacks had seven cats, Seven cats had seven kits, Kits, cats, sacks, and wives, How many were going to Saint Ives?"

Papa laughed, and said he believed that the honour was also claimed by alittle town in Huntingdonshire of the same name. "The two, " he said, "may fight it out. It is not very important. "

The wind now blew from the northward, and in a short time we opened theLongships, bearing due south-west. It had hitherto been hidden by theland, so that we knew perfectly well where we were. We then kept awayuntil we came in sight of the two lights of the Seven Stones Lightship, until we brought them on our starboard beam, when we were within theradius of Saint Agnes Lighthouse just before daybreak. 

We were hoping to get in or off Saint Mary's in the morning, when itfell calm; and there we lay, with our sails flapping idly, and rollingin the swell of the Atlantic, which came in from the southward. Wecould see through our glasses the Longships Lighthouse on one side andthe light-vessel on the other, while the Scilly Islands rose blue andindistinct out of the ocean. One tide carried us to the northward; butin the next we regained our lost ground. It was, however, verytantalising, as we were anxious to ascertain what had become of theDolphin. 

Though papa always hoped for the best, he could not help acknowledgingthat he feared that she might have met with some accident. At length abreeze sprang up, but it was against us; still, that was better than acalm, as we could gain ground by tacking. Dick and Nat asked more thanonce why we were sailing away from the land when we wanted to get there. 

At last we came in sight of a lofty tower on the top of a hill in SaintMartin's Island, with the long low outline of Saint Mary's beyond. Still, we had several tacks more to make before we gained the entranceto Crow Sound, between Saint Mary's and Saint Martin's. By this time itwas dark. A bright look-out was kept for rocks and shoals in thechannel. Suddenly rounding a point, the light from Saint Agnes shonebrilliantly down on us, and further to our right we saw the littletwinkling lights from the windows of the houses in Hugh Town, thecapital of the Scilly Islands. 

Having come safely to an anchor among several other vessels, we shoutedout, "Dolphin, ahoy!" hoping that she was among them, though in the darknight we could not distinguish her. We had shouted out several times, and papa was on the point of putting off in the boat to make inquirieson shore, when a hail came down from the other side of the harbour, "Isthat the Lively?"

"Ay--ay!" we answered. "Is that the Dolphin?"

"Ay--ay!" was the reply. "I'll be aboard you presently. "

In a short time we heard the splash of oars, and, much to our relief, Uncle Tom, followed by Oliver and Jack, sprang on deck. 

Our first inquiries were as to how they had weathered the gale. "Famously, " answered Uncle Tom. "We kept hove-to till the morning, when, as the wind moderated, we stood in here, a pilot having boarded usand showed us the way. "

"Who have you got here?" exclaimed Oliver, as he looked into Nat'slittle berth. 

Great was the astonishment of all the party when we described theadventures we had met with. We talked over various plans for findingout Nat's relatives, and what should be done with him, should we notsucceed. 

Next morning we went on shore to inspect the town and to make the tourof the island, which is easily done, as it is only two and a half mileslong and one and a half broad. The town had a somewhat sombre lookuntil we got on shore, when the neat gardens full of flowers, and theclean appearance of the streets, made us think better of the place. Most of the houses are low, few of them having more than two stories. 

On the hill, about one hundred feet above the town, is the castle, whichhas seen a good many stirring events in its time; but its only garrisonnow consists of a single individual, who, I suppose, is placed there toprevent the rats from taking possession. It was built in the time ofQueen Elizabeth, by Sir Francis Godolphin; but its chief interest arisesfrom its being the last spot on British soil which held out for theRoyalists in the days of Cromwell, when Sir John Grenville was governor. Prince Charles fled here, and remained until he took his departure forJersey. For six years the stout Sir John retained his post, and havingcollected a number of vessels, fitted them out as cruisers, for thepurpose of crippling the forces of the Parliamentary party. Thesecruisers had, in truth, very much the character of pirates, and were notparticular what vessels they robbed. Having plundered some Dutchmen, they were very nearly being severely punished by old Van Tromp, whoappeared with a squadron. When summoned to surrender, Sir John refused, and Van Tromp sailed away. At length, so urgent became therepresentations of the merchants whose vessels had been captured, thatParliament sent an expedition, under Admiral Blake and Sir George Askew, when Sir John was compelled to surrender; and he, with the eight hundredmen forming his garrison, received honourable terms. 

Though at one time the inhabitants of the Scilly Islands were noted fortheir barbarous customs, they have now become as peaceably disposed andcivilised as any of Her Majesty's subjects. 

Saint Mary's is divided into two parts by a narrow neck of land, onwhich Hugh Town stands. It is very possible that some day it will bewashed away. We passed over a well-laid-out piece of ground coveredwith soft turf, on which sheep and deer were feeding, called the Park;and from it we could see the tall lighthouse and the few cottages onSaint Agnes Island. 

We then proceeded to Buzza Hill, whence we could look down on theharbour, which had the appearance of a large lake. Sometimes, we weretold, several hundred vessels take shelter within it. Opposite to HughTown was Tresco, the residence of Mr Smith, the lord proprietor, surrounded by gardens containing avenues of geraniums and plantations ofthe rarest exotics. 

Some of the heights we reached were grand and picturesque in theextreme--one of them, Penninis, especially so. Rocks seemed piled onrocks; beneath, vaults and caverns, abounding with lichens and ferns, with crystal pools in the hollows of granite. Climbing to the summit, our eyes ranged over the ocean, rolling in sublime magnificence, itsvoice never silent. 

On Tolmen Point is a Druidical monument--a perforated stone, which weexamined. Papa said that no one knew for what purpose this monument, and others like it, were intended. He told us of one especially, whichhe had seen at Constantine Penryn, of which he had a photograph. It hadlately, he said, been thrown down for the sake of getting at the graniteunderneath. I think such destruction of old monuments ought to beforbidden by law!

Then we went to Porthhellick Cove, with wild rocks seen beyond it, onwhich, in the year 1707, Sir Cloudesley Shovel, with four of his shipsand two thousand men, were cast away. The body of the admiral, known bya valuable ring on his finger, was buried on the shore of the cove. Itwas afterwards removed to Westminster Abbey. 

Papa remarked that the strong current produced by the indraught of theIrish Channel drifted these ships out of their course, and was the causeof the catastrophe. 

The inhabitants of the islands were once known for their smuggling andwrecking propensities. A fisherman whom we fell in with--avenerable-looking man, with white hair streaming under his cap--pointedout several spots on which ships with rich cargoes had run on shore, andassured us that coin was still to be picked up in the sand, if peoplewould but take the trouble to look for it. In former days everybody wasengaged in smuggling, or trusting to salvage from wrecks. There was butlittle farming. No potatoes were grown, and there were no gardens, while their huts were as low and damp as those in the Hebrides. Butwhen Mr Smith came he changed all that; and now the people live incomfortable houses, have gardens full of flowers, and the productions ofthe islands afford them ample support. Wheat and rye, and everydescription of vegetable, are grown; scarlet geraniums flourish, whilefuchsias, and a variety of other magnificent flowers, not only grow inthe gardens, but form hedges several feet in height. 

Next morning we got under weigh to take a cruise among the islands. Passing round on the other side of Hugh Town, we perceived thenarrowness of the strip on which it stands, and sincerely hoped that thesea would not again--as it once did--break across and inundate theplace. I cannot attempt to describe the numerous rocks and islands wesighted in our course, there being altogether upwards of three hundred, large and small. Steering to the south-west, we passed Gorregan andRosevean, where our pilot told us that many a stout ship had been lost;some, striking on the rocks, having gone down and left no sign of theirfate, except some articles thrown up on the shore. Coming to an anchor, we pulled off in the boat to catch fish, with which the sea literallyswarmed. We could see them swimming about through the clear water. Wewere amused by the way in which our pilot, who was a great fisherman, caught them. Throwing the bait always before their noses, and singingout, "Come along, Dick, come along, Tom; bite, my boy;" and, sureenough, the fish bit, and were caught. 

We afterwards passed several ruins of ancient chapels, when we arrivedoff Saint Agnes, on which the magnificent lighthouse stands. On theisland were a few cottages; and here the scarlet geranium was almost atree. 

From this point we steered for the Bishop's Lighthouse, the most westernpart of Scilly. It is a magnificent stone tower, one hundred andforty-seven feet high, with one fixed bright light. This can bedistinguished from that of Saint Agnes, which revolves every minute. 

Passing up Broad Sound we came off a fine headland, the proper name ofwhich is the "Menavawr;" but our pilot called it the "Man o' war. "

In our cruise we passed Bryher and Sampson, the two largest islands inthe group. The latter island is called after a saint of that name. Itconsists of two hills, the outlines of which present the form of theback of a camel. Landing on the shore, we made a collection ofbeautiful shells, which accumulate in large quantities on the beach. Our pilot told us that, until lately, the isle of Sampson was thicklypeopled; but the inhabitants, being addicted to certain illegalpractices, such as wrecking and smuggling, and illicit distillation ofspirits, it was found necessary, as the only means of weaning them fromtheir bad habits, to disperse them, either on the mainland, or throughthe other islands, where they could be better watched. 

We again got out our fishing-lines, which we baited with flies formedout of untwisted pieces of rope. In a short time we had caught a dozenfine whiting-pollock. We, however, had a still greater catch shortlyafterwards. 

As we were sailing along through the Sound, a herd of porpoises camegambolling by, their black bodies and fins now appearing, now sinkingbeneath the surface. Captain Truck had a harpoon ready, and he placedhimself in the forechains, with a rope round his waist. He stood withhis weapon high poised in the air, ready to strike. We were all on thewatch. In a few moments his harpoon flew from his hand. 

"Pay away, lads!" he shouted out; "the fellow's fast. "

The porpoise dived, and the line ran out at a rapid rate. Truck sprangin board, and quickly checked it. We then got two running bowlinesready, one in the fore part of the vessel, and the other aft. There wasgreat excitement. 

"Now haul away, " he sang out; and the porpoise was dragged, in spite ofits struggles, close alongside, when the running bowlines were passedone over its head, and the other round its tail; and all hands joining, including Nat, who took the end of a rope--although, as may be supposed, he was not of much use--we hoisted the huge fish on board. It was atonce killed and scientifically cut up by Truck and the pilot. So eagerwas the latter, that he very nearly let us strike on a rock. We hadsome pieces of the porpoise beef for dinner, which were pronounced verygood. We supplied the Dolphin with a portion of our catch, and ourunited crews lived on it for the next two days. 

Next day we had another similar cruise, during which we visited thebeautiful Sound called New Grimsby. On one side stands the tower, knownas Cromwell's Castle--not that he was ever in the island, but he orderedit to be built. On the opposite side are the ruins of another fort. Itwas here that the forces under Blake and Askew landed, and attacked thefortifications, though they met with a stout resistance from theRoyalists, who at length took to flight. 

Farther on we came off vast masses of rock piled one upon another. Thetwo yachts having hove-to, we pulled on shore, and, under the guidanceof the pilot, managed to land; when, climbing up some distance, wereached a cone, from the bottom of which we could hear the sea roaringfearfully. We then arrived lower down at a small opening, when a guide, who had joined us, lighted some candles, that we might find our way intoa celebrated cavern, called "Piper's Hole. " For some distance we had tocrawl along on our hands and knees. At length we reached a narrow buthigh vault; this we followed until we arrived at the head of a ladder. "You will find a boat at the bottom, gentlemen, " said the guide. 

Jack and I, with Uncle Tom, descended, as we were told that the boatcould not carry a larger fare. After looking down for a few seconds, wedistinguished a light; and going down the ladder, we stepped into aboat, in which a man, whom we of course denominated Charon, was seated. Instead of oars, he used a long pole to urge on the boat. We noticedthe dark appearance of the water as we made our way through the vaultedchambers. We now found ourselves floating on a lake, the water black asink, but perfectly smooth. Above our heads was a lofty and extensivedome; but the sides were invisible. Charon ferried us across, andlanded us on a smooth sandy shore, along which we proceeded for aconsiderable distance through a succession of caverns, until we arrivedat a small circular chamber where they appeared to terminate. 

On putting my hand into the water on my return, to my surprise I foundit perfectly fresh, although so close to the sea. Here any number ofoutlaws might take refuge, with small chance of being discovered, ordefend themselves against any force sent in pursuit, provided they hadfood to hold out until their enemies had grown weary of looking forthem. Charon--unlike his namesake--had no objection to ferry us backacross the Styx; and having made our way into the upper air, we regainedthe boat. 

Our next visit was to Rock Island, the resort of countless numbers ofsea-birds. It is at the extreme northern end of the group, and consistsof a high table-land, surrounded by precipitous cliffs. As weapproached, the gulls rose in masses so thick as positively to darkenthe air, while all around the sea was speckled with the white feathersof innumerable puffins. On the cliffs were ranged numerous clusters ofblack cormorants, who seemed to be watching us eagerly. Their plumagewas very fine, being of a lustrous invisible green, while their eyeswere of the brightest emerald hue. The boats which went in pursuitbrought back a number of gulls and puffins and cormorants, some of whichOliver begged might be preserved for stuffing. 

We paid a visit on the last day of our stay to the residence of MrSmith, in the island of Tresco. On landing, we proceeded across a park, and approached the large, many-gabled house, in front of which the rockyground was completely concealed by masses of blooming creepers. Wepassed between beautiful flower-beds, among which grew magnificentaloes, twenty feet in height, covered with bloom. We wellnigh lostourselves in the labyrinth of walks, literally shaded by scarletgeraniums of giant growth, and shrubs, such as grow nowhere in the openair on the mainland, many of them of extreme beauty, brought from allparts of the world. In the midst of the gardens we came upon theivy-mantled arches of the ruined abbey of Tresco, which has reared itshead in these far off islands for the last eight centuries. We all ofus agreed that we had never before been in so perfect a garden, so richwith a profusion of flowers. Mr Smith, in making this "Paradise, " hadan object in view--to set an example to the inhabitants of these lonelyislands, to show them what Nature will do for them, when they put theirshoulder to the wheel; and in few parts of the world are the climate andsoil so suited to the production of floral wonders. 

I must not venture to give a further description of the place, but Imust say that Scilly is well worth a visit; and I am sure that any of myfriends who may go there will not be disappointed. We were quite sorrywhen papa and Uncle Tom determined to sail, reminding us that, if weremained longer, we should have no time to see the other places ofinterest it was our intention to visit on our voyage round England. 

CHAPTER SEVEN. 

OUT IN THE LIFEBOAT. 

Once more we were steering to the north-east, intending to visit severalplaces on the Cornish and Devonshire coast, before standing across theBristol Channel. The sea was calm, and the wind, coming off shore, waslight, as we slowly sailed past the Cow-and-Calf Rocks. 

"Dear me, what a strange creature! Why, there's a black calf!"exclaimed little Nat, who was looking over the side of the vessel as weglided on. 

Captain Truck turned his eyes in the direction of the rocks, where, sureenough, there was a strange-looking creature lying perfectly still, andgazing up at us with large lustrous orbs. 

"That's a seal, Master Nat. If you could just look into one of thecaverns on this coast, you'd find lots of them creatures. Though theyare without feet or hands, they can manage to make their way along thebeach at a pretty fast rate with their flappers and tails. If you wereto see one, you would laugh. "

"Couldn't we catch it?" asked Nat. 

"Maybe if he was to come near enough I might with my harpoon; but he istoo big to be a passenger on board our small craft. "

Truck got his harpoon in readiness, but, fortunately for itself, theseal did not come within reach of his deadly weapon. 

Rounding Stepper Point, we stood up the broad estuary which forms themouth of the river Camel, on the southern shore of which stands Padstow. The town is situated in a valley, with pretty gardens on every side, while in front is a lake-like expanse of water apparently surrounded bygranite cliffs, the entrance being completely shut out from view. Vessels of considerable size were at anchor, showing that the water wasdeep. We observed many ancient-looking buildings in the old part of thetown near the quays, from which a fine pier projected. Higher up weremore modern-looking buildings. 

Having replenished our stores, which was our chief object in coming in, though the place itself was well worth seeing, we again sailed, and thesame evening came off Tintagel Head. 

Here both yachts were hove-to. We all pulled on shore in the boats, taking Nat with us. The place where we landed was near the village ofTrevena. Over an inn door was painted the name of "Charity Bray, " whichwe found to be the appellation of the landlady. As we promised to taketea at her hostelry before returning on board, she undertook to procureus a guide, who would lead us by the shortest cut to the far-famedancient castle of Tintagel. Hurrying on, for we had no time to spare, we descended by a steep path along the side of the cliff until wereached a lofty rock, on which one part of the castle stands, while onthe mainland another portion is built. We were now standing at thebottom of a chasm looking up two hundred feet or more to the castlewalls, which were originally joined by a drawbridge. The castle wasanciently called Dunchine, or the Fort of the Chasm. A zigzag pathenabled us to gain the summit of the cliffs. The entrance to the castlewas through a gateway, a ruined archway which still stands. Passingthrough it, we entered a court, called King Arthur's Garden, immediatelybeyond which rose a precipitous rock, crowned by a tower and wall--evidently the keep. At the further side the cliff descendsperpendicularly to the sea, while on the other is the chasm I havementioned as dividing the two portions of the castle. The wallsaltogether encircled the larger part of the promontory, and in someplaces can hardly be distinguished from the cliffs, out of which theyseem, as it were, to grow. The headland, I was told, contains aboutforty acres. We remarked that the walls were pierced with a number ofsmall square orifices, probably intended for the use of bowmen. In therock overlooking the ocean is a recess, which our guide told us wascalled "King Arthur's Chair;" and in another part is a subterraneanpassage called "King Arthur's Hiding-place. " It is undoubtedly one ofthe most ancient castles in the kingdom, though it was greatly enlargedin later years, and was kept up until the reign of Elizabeth, when itwas abandoned as a stronghold, and allowed to fall into decay. As itwas King Arthur's birthplace, so it was the spot where he lost his life. I found some lines by the poet Wharton, describing the battle:

 "O'er Cornwall's cliffs the tempest roared; High the screaming sea-mew soared; On Tintagel's topmost tower Darksome fell the sleety shower, When Arthur ranged his red-cross ranks On conscious Camlan's crimson banks, By Modred's faithless guile decreed Beneath a Saxon spear to bleed. "

Once upon a time the Cornish men were noted for being heartlesswreckers. There is a story current of a wicked man, who, having tied upa donkey by the leg, fastened a lantern round its neck and drove italong the summit of the cliffs; the halting movement of the creature, resembling the plunging of a ship, being calculated to tempt vessels totheir destruction, from the belief that there was ample sea room. Happily, at the present time the Cornish men are as prompt to save asthey were in their savage days to lure hapless barques on shore. Thispart of the coast is indeed a fearful one for any unfortunate shipdriven upon it, though, by means of the rocket apparatus and thelifeboats, the crew have a better chance of escape than formerly. 

Soon after leaving Tintagel we came in sight of the higher light, whichbeamed forth from Lundy Island, revolving every two minutes. We stoodon across Bude Bay, steering for Hartland Point, at the southern side ofBarnstaple Bay. The wind heading us, we stood off the shore until wecaught sight of the lower fixed light on Lundy Island, where, from thedistance we were from it, papa calculated that the next tack would carryus into the bay. 

I always enjoy sailing at night when finding our way by the lights, withthe chart spread out on the cabin table. The lighthouse of LundyIsland--which is at the very entrance of the Bristol Channel--is a greatblessing to mariners; while the island itself, which runs north andsouth, and is long and narrow, affords shelter in a westerly gale to thestorm-tossed vessels bound along the coasts. 

I was quite sorry when papa ordered me to turn in; but I was on deckagain before daybreak, and found that we were standing towards the twobright fixed lights at the entrance of Bideford Harbour, while we couldstill see the lights of Lundy Island astern; so that we knew where wewere as well as we should have done in broad daylight. By keeping thetwo lights in one, we knew that we were standing for the passage overthe bar into the harbour. 

It was just daylight as we entered the broad estuary where the riversTaw and Torridge flow into the ocean. We came off Appledore, at themouth of the Torridge, on which Bideford is situated. Bideford has anancient school-house, where many a naval hero acquired such education aswas considered necessary to prepare him for a life on the ocean. Another interesting object is its bridge, six hundred and seventy-sevenfeet in length, supported by twenty-four small arches, and carrying ironbuttresses on its side to widen the roadway; very ugly, I thought. 

From Bideford also sailed many an exploring expedition; while itsgallant mariners were well-known on the Spanish main, where they filledtheir pockets with doubloons, won at the point of their swords from thehaughty Dons. A new school has lately been established in thisneighbourhood for the sons of naval and military officers; and Dick andI agreed that we should like to go there. 

Returning down the river, we pulled up the northern arm of the estuary. Barnstaple is a place of considerable importance, which has existedsince the reign of the Saxon kings: Athelstan, having built a castlehere, made the town into a borough. It is a handsome-looking place, butthe harbour is much blocked up, so that only small vessels can enter. The river is spanned by an ancient stone bridge, the width of which isincreased, as at Bideford, by iron projections for foot passengers;there is also a railway on either side. We saw a number of vesselsbuilding, and passed some large woollen and lace manufactories. 

As we had all read _Westward Ho_! we were anxious to see Clovelly, whichlies at the south side of the bay. So, early the next morning, gettingunder weigh, the tide being favourable, we ran out of the harbour, andstood across to that most picturesque of villages. Bringing up, we wenton shore. We might almost have fancied ourselves in some Chinese place, as we climbed up the High Street, which is built in a hollow, withcliffs on either side, a rapid stream rushing down it towards the sea. The streets are very narrow, running in a zigzag fashion; but the littlegardens full of flowers at the side of each doorway give it a mostattractive appearance. It is also clean and neat in the extreme; whilethe romantic scenery around, and the views over Bideford Bay, covered asit was then by the dark red sails of numberless trawling-boats, made usvery glad that we had landed. 

As we had not much time to spare, we again put off, and sailed toIlfracombe. We passed on our way Morte Point, a dangerous headland, socalled on account of the number of vessels that have been shipwreckedthere. There is a lighthouse on the cliff, to show the position of thisdangerous place, and a red buoy also floats over the sunken rocks. 

We had with us a chart, showing the position of the wrecks round theEnglish coasts. There were a considerable number around this headland;but many more up the Bristol Channel, especially at the mouth of theSevern, where the river appears crowded with black dots. Off Plymouth, long rows of dots show where vessels have gone down. Between LundyIsland and the Welsh coast they are numerous; while they are equallydense between the Eddystone and Falmouth. They cluster thickly in theneighbourhood of all the headlands round Cornwall. Though moresprinkled, they are almost within hail of each other across SaintGeorge's Channel, --from the entrance, to the north of the Isle ofAnglesea, --and still thicker at the mouth of the Mersey. There are nota few off Portland. Between that and Beachy Head they lie very close;but from Dungeness to the North Foreland they almost touch each other, every part of the Goodwin Sands being covered by them. All along theshore at the mouth of the Severn they can be counted by dozens; but thesandbanks off Great Yarmouth have proved the destruction of more vesselsthan the rocks of any other part of the coast. There is scarcely twentymiles of shore anywhere which could be passed over without those darkspots which show that some vessel has been wrecked. 

It was gratifying, however, to see painted on the map a number of littlered dots, which mark the lifeboat stations. Where wrecks have morefrequently occurred in past years, there they appear thickest. On theNorfolk coast there are close upon thirty lifeboats, so that they are inmost places not more than five miles apart. 

We got into the snug little harbour of Ilfracombe, and the next morningenjoyed a ramble among the picturesque rocks of that romanticwatering-place. In winter people come from a distance to it, for it isone of the most attractive seaside places on the English coast, withrocks and sands, and comfortable lodging-houses. 

As the wind was from the southward and the tide favourable, we did notstay long, but stood across to Lundy Island, a rock at the southern endof which is called Bat Island. We had seen the revolving light of theisland before entering Barnstaple Bay. The east coast is bold andprecipitous, with numerous deep ravines running into the cliffs. Thesouth end is even more rugged than the northern. Near the landing-placeis a cave hollowed out of a black rock, called the Devil's Kitchen; andbeyond it is a narrow opening filled with dangerous rocks, known asHell's Gate. Indeed, from their character many spots hereabouts arecalled after Satan or his imps. As papa observed, people are readyenough to give Satan credit for the physical ills they suffer, but toooften forget the fearful moral power he exerts, and yield themselves hiswilling slaves. Curiously enough, the chief proprietor of the island, who lives in a substantial house, rejoices in the name of "Heaven. "

So narrow is the landing-place, that we had to follow each other insingle file. We had a glorious scramble among the rocks. On the top ofa height appeared Marisco's Castle, with low walls and four towers, reminding us of the Tower of London. 

Lundy Island has been the refuge of persons of high and low degree. Nosmall number of smugglers have made it their abode, as from thenceformerly they could carry on their lawless trade with impunity. Themost noted of them was a man named Benson, at one time a member ofParliament, who had ultimately to escape to "foreign lands" to avoidpunishment. The pirates also in days of yore used to make it theirheadquarters; indeed, Marisco, who built the castle, may be included inthe category of outlaws. He, with a daring band of followers, longcarried on their depredations on foreign and mercantile shipping, untilthey were all captured and hanged. 

We met with vast numbers of puffins, cormorants, and sea-gulls, whichinhabit the cliffs of the island; and we obtained some good specimens oftheir eggs. The most curious were those of the guillemot, which, thoughlittle larger than the puffin, have eggs as large as those of geese. They are white, chocolate, or verdigris green, covered with curiousfigures and dashes; and it is said that, notwithstanding the numbercollected, no two have ever been found exactly alike. We took on boarda number of eggs to eat. The yolk is a deep red, and the whitetransparent. The egg of the cormorant is but little larger than that ofa pigeon. All these eggs are laid on ledges of the rocks. Being smallat one end and large at the other, the wind rolls them round, but doesnot blow them over the edge. 

It did not take us long to inspect Lundy Island, for it is only abouttwo and a half miles long, and less than a mile wide. It consists of amass of granite rising about two hundred feet above the sea. 

We regretted being unable to visit Swansea, away to the north-east, andCarmarthen; but the coast between them is dangerous, and the passagewould have occupied a considerable time. We should also have liked tolook into the very pretty little seaside place of Tenby, on the west ofCarmarthen Bay. 

Swansea is a town of very considerable importance. It has a largeforeign and home trade, and contains a number of furnaces for thesmelting of copper, the ore being imported from Cornwall and Devonshire, and even from Australia and other foreign places. Five or six thousandships visit it every year. Several canals and railways connect it withother parts of the country. It is not surprising that the wreck chartshould show a number of black dots off its harbour. 

A fresh breeze from the south-east soon brought us in sight of SaintAnn's lights, forming the south-west entrance of Milford Haven; andguided by them we stood on towards the mouth of that magnificentestuary, which we entered by the first dawn of day. Running up it, westeered due east until we came off the town of Milford, where webrought-up, and sent on shore for fresh provisions. 

Milford Haven is a wide estuary, in some places four and five milesacross. We went on shore, but there was not much to see in the town. Anaval dockyard, which once existed here, was removed in 1814 toPembroke, on the southern side of the estuary. Having obtained what wewanted, we stood across to the latter place. We anchored off thedockyard, which is even larger than that of Portsmouth. We went throughit, visiting several ships of various sizes. We saw also buildings andmanufactories similar to those at Portsmouth. Everything is on a largescale. We were much interested in all we saw; but as I have alreadydescribed Portsmouth, I need not give an account of Pembroke. From thewidth of Milford Haven, and being open to the south-west gales, it doesnot when they are blowing, afford secure anchorage; and the wreck chartshows that a number of vessels have been lost within it. 

Papa and Uncle Tom had a consultation on board the Lively, and agreedthat they would stand on up the Irish Channel, and touch at no otherplace until we arrived at Caernarvon, at the entrance of the MenaiStraits, through which they intended to pass on our way to Liverpool. 

We accordingly sailed early in the morning, and steered across for theSmalls Lighthouse, to the westward of which they intended to keep beforestanding up Saint George's Channel. Though we had a brisk breeze, ittook us nearly three hours after we passed Saint Ann's Lighthouse, thedistance being eighteen miles, to reach the Smalls rocks. Before thelighthouse was erected many vessels were lost on them, or on othersbetween them and the coast of Wales. To the northward are the Tuskarrocks, on the Irish coast, on which also stands a fine lighthouse; andthe two may be considered the guardian angels of the Channel. Thosekeeping to the east can see the Smalls light, while those a shortdistance off more to the west are in sight of the Tuskar light, whichrevolves every two minutes. 

The tides run with great fierceness between the Smalls and the mainland, amid the dangerous reefs which extend out from the island of Skomer. Asit was nearly slack tide when we got up to the lighthouse, and as thewater was smooth, papa and Uncle Tom agreed to land. The yachts werehove-to, the boats lowered, and we pulled in on the northern side, wherewe had no difficulty in landing. 

Two of the light-keepers, seeing us coming, descended to ourassistance, --for, as may be supposed, they are ever happy to receivevisitors, especially those bringing newspapers and periodicals. Beforeascending, our guides took us to the site of the old tower, and acurious store-room, which was cut into the rock to serve as acoal-cellar to the former edifice, of which one of them gave us aninteresting account. 

Centuries had passed by, and numberless wrecks had occurred on theSmalls and neighbouring rocks, when, about a hundred years ago, a shipbelonging to Liverpool was lost on them. She was commanded by a CaptainPhillips, who, with his crew, escaped; and from a feeling of gratitudefor his providential deliverance he determined that he would do hisutmost to get a lighthouse built on the rock. He shortly afterwardsbecame a shipowner and merchant in Liverpool; and, being successful inbusiness, he forthwith put his intention into execution. His first planwas to fit long cast-iron pillars deep into the rock, and to place uponthem a circular room, as the habitation of the light-keepers, with alantern at the top. He had already raised the pillars to a considerableheight, when a heavy gale came on, and they were overthrown. Undauntedby his failure, Captain Phillips again set to work, and engaged a MrWhiteside--an ingenious mechanic and a native of Liverpool. Curiouslyenough, Mr Whiteside, who was about twenty-six years of age, hadhitherto employed his talents in making musical instruments, though, having means of his own, he did not depend upon his labour for hissubsistence. He had never been to sea, and was ignorant of the power ofthe ocean. Accompanied by half-a-dozen Cornish miners, he arrived inthe harbour of Solva, a small town near Saint David's Head, on the northside of Saint Bride's Bay, about twenty-two miles from the Smalls rock. He began the work by again using iron pillars, the task of the minersbeing to bore holes in the rock in which to fix them. Before they hadbeen long at work a gale arose, which compelled their vessel to seek forsafety in harbour, while they were left clinging to one of the ironpillars. During that fearful night several of them were nearly carriedaway. The gale abating on the third day, they were rescued in a veryexhausted state by the crew of their vessel. Still Mr Whitesidecontinued the work. After the iron pillars were fixed, and alreadycarried to some height, another gale so bent them as to convince himthat another material must be used. He accordingly obtained the longestand stoutest oak trees to be procured in the kingdom. After undergoingmany hardships, dangers, and disappointments, he ultimately erected fivewooden and three iron pillars. On the summit an octagonal room wasformed, with a lamp above. Afterwards the three iron pillars wereremoved, and oak placed in their stead, with another in the centre, thewhole supported by diagonal stays, the lower ends of which were fixed inthe rock. 

A rope ladder leading from the rock to a trap in the floor of the roomenabled the light-keepers to ascend; and in this room was stored oil, coal, provisions, and other necessities, with spare bunks for anymechanics employed on the work or shipwrecked mariners who might reachthe rock. Thus but little space was left for the regular inhabitants, two of whom, however, generally remained at a time in the lighthouse. 

During a severe gale, which lasted for many weeks, one of the men died;and the other, fearing that he might be accused of murdering hiscompanion, kept the body, placed in a coffin hanging under the floor ofthe room, until he was relieved. In consequence of this event, threekeepers were always stationed at the lighthouse. The room was only justof sufficient height for a man of ordinary stature to stand upright;indeed, one of the keepers, measuring six feet, was unable to do so, andhad to bend his head, lest he should strike it against the beams. 

Often, during even ordinary gales of wind, the whole structure wascompletely covered by the water, so that when the waves rose the lightcould not be seen. Having inspected the holes in which the towersstood, we examined the cellar. It was cut out of the solid rock, and istwenty feet long by eight wide, and four feet deep, and has a coveringof granite eight inches thick, the entrance being by two gun-metaldoors, or rather man-holes, perfectly impervious to water when closed;it was formed to hold the tools and stores of the labourers. The rockitself is twelve feet above the level of the sea at high-water, and thelantern of the old lighthouse stood seventy feet above the water. 

For eighty years this curious pigeon-hole of a dwelling-house towered inmid air, surrounded by the furious waves which dashed wildly against it, until at length the Trinity Corporation, who had purchased it from theheirs of the original possessor, resolved on building a stonelighthouse, similar to that of the Eddystone; and Mr James Douglas wasentrusted with its construction. The first stone was laid in 1857; andthe light on the new tower was exhibited on the 1st of August, 1861, theold structure being immediately afterwards removed. 

We made our way to the new lighthouse, which is of granite. Twenty-ninefeet above high-water mark, it is of solid masonry; in the next eighteenfeet there is a well-staircase seven feet in diameter, all the coursesbeing secured in the most perfect manner. Having climbed up by thirteengun-metal steps, wedged into the solid granite, we reached the entranceport. As may be supposed, we had to stretch our legs to get up to it. We ascended the staircase by twenty-eight steps to a room containingthree iron water-tanks, holding a thousand gallons, with a coal-cellarbelow it. Here a crane is fixed for hoisting in stores. Seventeen moresteps led us to the oil room. The arched granite floors are composed oftwelve radiating blocks of granite, dovetailed to a centre stone nineinches thick in the centre, and one foot seven inches in circumference. A slated floor is cemented on to the surface of the granite. Anotherseventeen steps took us up to the store-room, in which the meat andbread casks are kept. Ascending a third series of seventeen steps, wearrived at the living room, the walls of which are two feet six inchesthick. Here is a cooking-range with an oven, a bookcase, tables, etcetera. A fourth series took us to the bedroom, in which there arefive berths; and by a fifth staircase of seventeen steps we reach thewatch-room, immediately below the lantern; but there is no seat, as thekeeper is not allowed to sit down during his watch. Sixteen more stepswe mounted, making altogether one hundred and twenty-nine, when wearrived at the lantern. The apparatus is of the first catadioptricorder, lighted by a first-class pressure lamp. By it stands the machinefor striking the fog-bell, which weighs three hundredweight, and soundsabout every two seconds by means of a double clapper. There is also aflagstaff, by means of which the light-keepers can hoist signals topassing vessels. The total height of masonry above high-water mark isone hundred and fifteen feet six inches; and the diameter of the towerover the outside of the cornice is twenty-one feet. Although not solofty, this magnificent lighthouse is a far stronger structure than thatof the Eddystone. 

There are four light-keepers belonging to the lighthouse, one--as iscustomary--being on shore. They seemed perfectly happy and contented, liking the regularity of their lives, feeling, as they said, fully assafe as they would miles inland. They were _very_ glad of a packet ofnewspapers and a couple of magazines we gave them, which we obtained atMilford; and the men begged us to give them another look in, should wecome that way again. This we promised to do if we could. 

The weather had hitherto been very fine, and we hoped to have a pleasantrun. We were gliding smoothly on, and had got very nearly half acrossCardigan Bay, when the weather gave signs of changing. 

"We shall have a dirty night of it, sir, if I don't mistake, " observedTruck to papa; "if the wind comes from the westward, it will be all wecan do to weather Bardsey Island. "

"If we once round it, we shall have a clear run for Caernarvon, " saidpapa; "and I should be sorry to delay by making for another port. "

"If you please sir, " answered Truck, "to my mind it would be as well toget into port as soon as we can. "

"We will see what the glass says, " observed papa. 

He sent me below to look. It had fallen greatly within the lasthalf-hour. As we looked westward we saw heavy clouds banking up in thatdirection, and rapidly approaching. Papa, on this, ordered the gafftopsail to be taken in, and the jib shifted. Presently afterwards wehad two reefs down in the mainsail, and a still smaller jib set. Thewind rapidly increased. We went below and examined the chart. Thenearest port was Aberystwyth. 

"At all times there is sufficient water over the bar for small craftlike ours, " observed papa. "We will run for it, and shall be in beforedark; but if not, there are two lights to guide us into the harbour. "

On going on deck, we made a signal to the Dolphin, and Uncle Tom boredown to speak to us. Papa told him what he proposed doing, andimmediately altering our course, we stood into the bay. Having a goodchart, we had no difficulty in making out the landmarking. In about anhour we came in sight of the ruined walls of an ancient castle above theharbour. A number of fishing-boats were making for the harbour, to findshelter from the expected gale; and, following them, we ran over thebar--it being high-water--and brought-up before the old-fashioned town. 

The old town has not a very attractive appearance, as the streets arenarrow, and the houses covered with black slate, which give them asombre look, but there are also a number of large good-looking houses, inhabited by visitors, who come here to bathe and enjoy the sea-breezes, and we saw several churches and other public buildings; so thatAberystwyth may be considered a place of some importance. 

We were thankful to be in harbour, for we had scarcely dropped ouranchors before the gale broke with fearful violence. The sun hadalready set, and the rain came down in torrents. We remained on board, hoping to be able to see something of the old town and its ruins thefollowing morning, before sailing. 

All night long we could hear the wind howling and whistling, and the seadashing against the rocks outside the harbour. When morning broke, thestorm was raging as fiercely as ever; but as the rain had ceased, assoon as we had had breakfast we went on shore and walked down to thebeach. 

We met several people, who looked eager and excited, and inquiring ofthem the cause, they pointed seaward to the north-west, where, amid thespray, we made out a large vessel on shore. 

Presently we saw a carriage dragged by four horses, coming along at agreat rate, and as it came up we discovered that it contained thelifeboat. Reaching the shore, it was turned round, with the back of thecarriage, on which the bow of the lifeboat rested, towards the sea. Thehorses were now made to back it nearer and nearer the water. I felt soeager to witness the proceedings that I would have given anything to gooff with the gallant crew. 

"Now, lads! on board!" cried the coxswain. 

As he uttered the words, not only the crew but a number of other personsrushed down to the side of the boat. I found myself among them. In oneinstant the crew leapt on board, and, seized by a sudden impulse, I toosprang up the side, and slid down into the bottom of the boat. Thecoxswain was standing up, watching the seas as they rolled in. Thatmoment was a favourable one for launching the boat, and, crying out tothe men on the beach to haul away on the detaching lines, the boat, eretwo seconds had passed, began to glide towards the raging billows. Thecrew had seized their oars, and were already giving way. Bravely theboat rolled over the first sea she encountered; and in less than aminute--before I was discovered--she was far from the beach, and pullingswiftly away out to sea. Now, for the first time, the coxswain, castinghis eyes down, beheld me. 

"Where do you come from, my lad?" he exclaimed; "you have no businesshere. "

"I was on board before I had time to think about that, " I answered. "Ibeg your pardon; but now that I am here I hope that you will let meremain. "

"Provided you are not washed out of the boat, " he replied. "Here, takeone of these cork-jackets and put it on, and then sit quiet. Whateverhappens, hold fast, --or, stay, lash yourself down; remember your lifedepends upon it. "

I did as he directed, and had now time to reflect on the folly of myproceeding--not that I feared for myself, but I knew papa and the restof our party would be dreadfully anxious when they missed me. 

The coxswain took no further notice of me. He had enough to do toattend to the steerage of the boat. I confess that before many minuteswere over I wished myself back safe on shore. Still, I kept up myspirits; my only regret was that I had got on board without papa'sleave, and that he, and Oliver and Uncle Tom, and the rest, would bemade unhappy on my account. 

In spite of the coxswain's orders, I stood up, holding the rope with myleft hand, waving my handkerchief with the other, hoping that papa wouldsee it, and at once know what I was doing. 

I quickly sat down again, for I heard the coxswain cry out, "Hold fast, my lads!" and, turning my head for an instant over my shoulder, I saw atremendous wave come rushing on with a crest of foam curling over it asif about to overwhelm the boat. On the crew pulled, however; when in aninstant the sea broke, a large portion coming right down into the boat, wetting us through fore and aft. But the men seemed to think nothing ofit, and on they pulled. Several other seas broke over us in the sameway, half filling the boat; but she was so constructed that the waterran out again, and directly afterwards she was as buoyant as ever. Wewere pulling away to windward, to get a sufficient offing from the landto set sail. It was a long business, for although the men pulled hard, the wind was in our teeth, and the seas seemed to be sending us back asfast as we advanced. Such, however, was not the case, for on lookingtowards the shore I saw that we were gradually increasing our distancefrom it. 

Thus some hours were passed; they appeared to me the longest I had everknown, and I again and again wished myself on shore. Had I been one ofthe crew, and felt that by my exertions I might have contributed to thesaving of the shipwrecked sailors, the case would have been verydifferent; but I had to sit quiet. 

At last the coxswain shouted out, "Make sail!" The mast was stepped, and a double-reefed foresail and mizen were set. The boat couldscarcely carry a smaller sail out; even with that she heeled over. Herhead was now pointed towards the wreck, which seemed farther and fartheroff; indeed, we could only occasionally get a glimpse of her as we roseon the summits of the seas. How fearful must have been the anxiety ofthose on board the wreck! They might possibly have seen the boat; butif they did they might have feared that she would not reach them, orthat they would not be able to get on board her before their ship wentto pieces. At length the bank was reached which must be crossed beforethe wreck could be gained. The sea here was breaking tremendously; thewaves leaping and clashing together, gave the water the appearance of ahuge boiling cauldron. The boat seemed literally struggling for life;now the water poured in on one side, now on the other, as she rolled tostarboard or port. 

"Hold on, hold on, my lads, for your lives!" cried the coxswain; and atremendous sea broke bodily over her, threatening to sweep every man onboard away. I held on, as may be supposed, like grim death. The men, slipping from their seats, placed their breasts on the thwart, thrusttheir legs under them, and clasped them with both their arms, while thewater rushed over their backs and heads, so completely burying us that Ifully believed the boat was going down; indeed, it seemed as if we weregone. Suddenly regaining its buoyancy, up it sprang again, throwing outmost of the water through the side, while the rest sank to the bottom ofthe boat, and once more she floated bravely. 

The men looked round, as did I, expecting that some of their numberwould have been washed away; but they had all instantly regained theirseats, and on she sped amid the hissing foam. 

The wind, instead of lessening, appeared to increase, and the cloudscame down close above our heads, seeming almost to meet the dancingcrests of foam. With the masses of spray which continually broke overher and the thick clouds above us, it was almost as dark as night; andeven the coxswain, with his sharp eyes, could with difficultydistinguish the wreck. At last, the sands were crossed, and the boatwas once more ploughing her way through the seas, which rolled intowards the shore with greater regularity than those we had just passed. 

"I see her! I see her!" cried the coxswain, who was standing up peeringahead. "She is little better than half a mile to leeward. "

The direction of the boat was slightly altered, and we stood downtowards the wreck. As we approached her we saw that her mainmast wasgone, that her foremast and yards were still standing, with their sailsfluttering wildly from them. The lifeboat crew now looked anxiouslytowards the wreck, to ascertain if any men were still left in therigging or on the forepart of the hull, which alone remained above thewater. 

"I see one! I see _two_!" exclaimed the men, in rapid succession. "They are waving to us. "

As we got still nearer, we could count no less than eight men in therigging; but how to get to them was the difficulty. 

"The mainmast has not been cut adrift; it will be a dangerous task, "said the coxswain. "Lads, we shall have to board her on theweather-side, I fear. "

From the position we had gained we could now see to leeward; and there, sure enough, hung the mainmast, which the sea was tossing up and down ina way which would speedily have destroyed our boat. The coxswain'sresolution was taken. Running to windward, he ordered the anchor to belet go and the sails lowered. His object was to get sufficiently nearthe wreck to receive the people on board without actually touching her. This was a dangerous undertaking; but it had to be performed, if any ofthe shipwrecked crew were to be saved. Six hands went to the bow, andgradually the cable was paid out, the huge rolling seas carrying usnearer and nearer the wreck. Several broke over us, and, rising againstthe side of the vessel, concealed her and the crew hanging on to therigging from our sight. I remained seated, clinging on to the thwart, for I knew that I could do nothing. The brave coxswain, standing up, watched for an advantageous moment to approach the wreck. It seemed tome that it would never come. 

"Slacken the cable, " he shouted out; "three fathoms, a little more, alittle more!"

And now the stern of the boat got close up to the wreck. With a wildcry of "Now, lads, now!" four men sprang into the lifeboat. They wereactive seamen, or they could not have done it. Scarcely were they onboard, than, looking forward, I saw a tremendous sea come rushing downon the boat. The coxswain shouted, "Haul in, lads! haul in!" The crew, with two of the men who had just joined us, hauled away from the wreck, only just in time; for the sea would otherwise have carried us right upon her deck, and either have dashed the boat to pieces or upset her, andsent us all struggling into the water. The huge wave having broken, again the boat was allowed to approach, and six more of the crew, havingunlashed themselves, sprang into her one after the other. Neither theynor we were in safety. "Are there any more of you?" asked the coxswain, who was compelled to keep his eye to windward to watch the approachingwaves. 

"Yes, five more, " was the answer. 

"Haul away! haul away, lads!" shouted the coxswain, for at that instanthe saw another huge wave rolling in. 

The lifeboat crew saw it too, and knew full well that it would prove ourdestruction, should we not get to a safe distance. Still, the remainderof the crew were not to be deserted. Three were men, the other twoboys. I could see the poor fellows, as I looked back, lashed to therigging, holding up their hands in dumb show, imploring us not to desertthem. Neither the coxswain nor his crew were men to do that; butalready the boat was crowded, and should the sea break on board, some ofthose saved might be washed out of her. Sea after sea rolled in on thewreck; every moment I expected to see the masts go, with the helplessmen clinging to the shrouds, when all must be lost. 

"Pay out, pay out, my lads!" exclaimed the coxswain, just as a huge seawas breaking astern of us, and three or four smaller ones of lessconsequence were approaching. 

Again the boat got close up to the wreck. Two more men sprang into her. Another made the attempt, but his foot slipped, or he let go his holdof the rope too soon, and, falling between the boat and the vessel'sside, disappeared. One shriek only escaped him; it reached the ears ofthe two poor boys, who seemed paralysed with fear and unable to helpthemselves. 

The coxswain shouted to them to let go, and spring towards him. One didas directed, and was caught by the strong arm of one of the crew. Theother appeared to be entangled in the rigging. The brave man who hadsaved the other lad, seeing that the boy would be lost, regardless ofthe danger he himself was incurring, sprang on board, cutting thelashings with his knife, which he then threw from him. He seized theboy round the waist. At that instant I heard the cry, "Haul off, hauloff!"

"Hold fast for a moment!" shouted the gallant man who had gone to rescuethe boy. 

By the delay of that moment the lives of all of us were fearfullyimperilled. The man sprang with the rescued boy on board; but scarcelyhad his feet touched the boat when the sea which had just before beenobserved surrounded her and carried her right up high above the deck ofthe wreck. The crew forward were hauling away with all their might, although the bow of the boat was pointed downwards, and must, I thought, be dragged under water. Every instant I expected to hear the fatalcrash. Had our mizenmast been caught in any of the rigging, ourdestruction would have been certain; but ere the boat actually struckthe wreck she was hauled off; and now the crew, labouring with all theirstrength, drew her up to her anchor. To weigh the anchor with the seathat was running was impossible. Should the boat drift down on thewreck before sail could be made she must be dashed to pieces. 

"Hoist away!" cried the coxswain. 

A few strokes with an axe severed the cable, the foresail filled, andaway we dashed through the foaming seas, passing so close to the wreckthat I thought our mast-head must have struck her bowsprit. 

Fourteen human beings had been saved; and with our rescued freight onboard we stood towards the harbour. Scarcely had we got clear of thewreck than the remaining mast and the bowsprit went. Had any delayoccurred, all those fourteen of our fellow-creatures would have losttheir lives. How long we had been away I could not tell, but itappeared like a lifetime to me. I saw that the day was waning, and itwould be long still before we could get back safe to land. The galeblew as fiercely as at first, and the seas which occasionally washedover us seemed to threaten our destruction. We could dimly see theland; but the lifeboat crew knew well where they were going; and theynow did what they could to relieve the sufferings of the shipwreckedseamen by handing them the flasks of restoratives, with which they hadcome provided. 

Had I gone out with papa's leave, I should have been delighted to seethe gallant deed I had witnessed. As it was, I could not help beingsecretly pleased, though now, strange to say, as the danger decreased, and I had time to think again of my friends, I earnestly longed to besafe on shore. 

At last we caught sight of the lights at the mouth of the river, towardswhich the boat was making her way, although we had to go a long distanceround to reach it. I was, of course, wet through, and cold and faintfrom want of food, though I felt no hunger. The light grew higher andnearer. The wind was at last brought on the quarter, and on thelifeboat flew. I felt her lifted by a monster sea, then down she came, and was the next instant in comparatively quiet water. 

Loud cheers greeted us from the shore, which were heartily answered byour crew. 

We rushed on, the sails were lowered, and we were alongside the wharf. I was so numbed and cold that I could not stand or spring out of theboat; but I heard a voice, which I knew to be that of papa, shoutingout:

"Did you take off a boy with you?"

"Yes, sir; all right; here he is;" and the coxswain, lifting me up inhis arms, handed me to papa and Uncle Tom. 

They neither of them said anything, but carried me to the boat, whichpulled off at once to the yacht. My teeth chattered with cold, so thatI could scarcely speak. I was very thankful that they did not ask mequestions. I was immediately put into my berth, and Truck soon broughta basin of hot soup, while a stone bottle of hot water was placed at myfeet. In ten minutes I felt wonderfully better. Hearing papa in thecabin, I at once acknowledged that I had acted very wrongly. 

"The impulse seized me, and I could not resist it, " I said. 

"You should not allow yourself to be influenced by a sudden impulse; butI am too thankful that you escaped destruction to be angry with you. Let us thank God that you are preserved. "

After offering our sincere thanks to God for His merciful deliverance, papa said no more; and a very short time afterwards I fell asleep. Thenext morning, when I awoke we were at sea with the wind off shore, thesun shining brightly, and the water comparatively smooth. There wasstill a swell from the westward, the only signs of the recent storm. 

CHAPTER EIGHT. 

LIVERPOOL AND GLASGOW. 

After passing Aberdovey and Barmouth, in Cardigan Bay, we sighted SaintTudwell's Island; and then rounding Bardsey Island, on which stands asquare white tower, ninety-nine feet in height, with one bright fixedlight shining far out over Saint George's Channel, we ran north pastPorthdinlleyn, steering for Caernarvon, at the southern entrance of theMenai Straits. 

As we sailed along we had a great deal of conversation about lifeboats. They have been in existence since 1789, when the first boat builtexpressly for saving life was launched by Mr H. Greathead, aboat-builder at South Shields; but some years before that a Londoncoach-builder--Mr Lionel Lukin--designed a boat which he called "anunimmergible boat;" and, for the purpose of carrying out hisexperiments, he purchased a Norway yawl, which he tried in the Thames. His plans were entirely successful. He soon afterwards fitted a coble, sent from Bamborough, in Northumberland. The Duke of Northumberland, approving of Mr Greathead's invention, ordered him to build a boat, which was afterwards stationed at North Shields. For a long time hisplan was considered the best, and there are several of his lifeboats, which are impelled exclusively by oars, still in existence. 

For years after their invention, the greater part of the coast waswithout lifeboats, until Sir William Hillary, who, while residing in theIsle of Man, had seen numerous vessels cast away, and lives lost, expressed his wishes to Mr Thomas Wilson, M. P. For the City of London;and the two gentlemen called a meeting in 1824, the result of which wasthe establishment of the "Royal National Institution for thePreservation of Life from Shipwreck. " From that time forward greatencouragement was given to the building of lifeboats; and there are fewparts of the coast now without them. Of course, a lifeboat must differgreatly from a common open boat, for even the best of them is easilyfilled with water, or upset. 

A lifeboat must be buoyant, and firmly ballasted, self-righting, containing plenty of space for the rescued, strength to battle with theheavy seas, and power to resist the many strikings against rocks andwrecks. The buoyancy is obtained by having air chambers formed alongthe sides of the boat, and a watertight deck, the space between whichand the boat's floor is filled by air chambers. Beside this, at eachend there are air cases built across, and reaching to the high gunwalesof the bow and stern. The power of discharging water is obtained byforming a watertight deck at the load-water-line. In this deck thereare several large open tubes, having their upper openings on the surfaceof the deck, and the lower ones in the boat's floor, thus passingthrough the space between the deck and the floor, and, of course, hermetically closed to it. In some boats the tubes are kept open, butin the self-righting boats they are fitted with self-acting valves, which open downwards only, so that they will allow any water shipped topass through them, whilst none can pass upwards. Papa explained that, as the deck is placed above the water-line, any water resting on it willbe above the outside level of the sea, and will run out through thevalves and tubes into the sea. As fluids always gain their level byspecific gravity, the water passes through the valves until none remainsabove the surface of the deck. In the smaller lifeboats, which have nodecks, the only way to relieve the boat is by bailing. It is importantthat a lifeboat should be well ballasted, especially the largersailing-boats. These are now ballasted with water, which is let inafter the boat is off the beach, and is allowed to fill every availablespace to a certain height. By being thus heavily ballasted, they canmake their way through the most tremendous seas, which would drive backany ordinary boat. Only once has a boat of this description been upset. 

A very important feature is that of self-righting. This is obtained byhaving air chambers of large size, both at the bow and stern, placedhigh above the centre of gravity. As the boat must be well ballasted, she must have limited breadth of beam, as also limited side buoyancy. By being properly ballasted, a boat can pass either through or over asea without being driven astern. The raised air chambers prevent thesea breaking over her at the bow or stern; while, if she dips into thesea, she instantly rises again. By having a limited beam, she gains inspeed, although she loses in stability; but, at the same time, if upset, she is much more speedily righted; while shorter oars are required, andfewer men to work them. 

Papa was strongly in favour of the self-righting principle. The bestboats are diagonally built, and copper-fastened. The planks are ofmahogany, two thicknesses of half-inch board, with painted calicobetween them. The keel is of American elm, and the false keel is onepiece of cast-iron, two and a half inches in width, by four and a halfin depth, weighing nine hundredweight. The stem is of English oak, andthe gunwale of American elm. The floors are of ash or oak. The deck isof mahogany, well caulked, and seven-eighths of an inch in thickness. These boats are about thirty-three feet in length over all, eight feetin breadth, four feet in depth. They pull, when double-banked, tenoars, which are made of ash, or sometimes fir; and they carry five orsix pairs of spare oars, to replace any which may be broken. They arefitted with life-lines outside, by which the men, if thrown out of theboat, can hold on to her, or people swimming can haul themselves onboard. No other boats are built so strongly. The principle adopted forplanking--that of placing the planks diagonally--gives the greatestpossible strength and elasticity, while the mahogany used is of thebest. 

The lifeboats themselves are liable to disaster. They may be crushed byfalling masts, or driven right on board a wreck, or against rocks, where, in spite of the efforts of their crews, they may be dashed topieces. It is now very rarely the case that lifeboats are lost. Insome places steamers are used to tow the lifeboat out to sea; but inmost instances she alone can approach a wreck sufficiently near to takeoff the crew. The cost of establishing a lifeboat on a station isestimated at eight hundred pounds, five hundred and fifty being theprice of the boat, her stores, and carriage, and two hundred and fiftypounds that of a substantial boat-house, while the annual cost is aboutseventy pounds. 

The weather was remarkably fine, and the sea smooth, as the wind was offshore. We were generally in sight of the cliffs, which extend along thecoast, and had occasional glimpses of blue mountains beyond, Snowdontowering above them all, with the Isle of Anglesea on our port side, andthe county of Caernarvon on the starboard. After passing the entrance, the Straits widen out into a lake-like expanse; but the shores againclose in where the town of Caernarvon is situated. 

Except its far-famed castle, there is nothing very, particular to see inthe town itself, which is not so picturesque as many we have visited. Asmall river, the Seiont, passes close to it. The whole town issurrounded by walks united to the castle. The streets, though rathernarrow, are laid out at right angles to each other, and are well pavedand lighted. We landed, and traversed the town. We presently made ourway to the castle. The external walls are ten feet thick, are nearlyentire, and enclose a space of three acres. Within them is a galleryrunning right round, with loop-holes for the discharge of arrows. Weclambered up two or three of the towers, which had turrets on theirsummits; the most important of them is called the Eagle Tower. We wereshown a dark chamber, twelve feet by eight; and our guide declared thatit was the room in which the first Prince of Wales was born; but, aspapa observed, that could not have been the case, as the tower was notbuilt at the time; besides, it was not at all the sort of place thequeen would have selected as her bed-chamber; it was far more likely tohave been a prison or guard-room. The castle was built by Edward theFirst, soon after his conquest of Wales; and it was finished about theyear 1293. We all considered it the finest ruin we had yet seen. Aboutthe time it was finished, the Welsh, led by Prince Madoc, attacked andcaptured the castle; when, according to the customs of the times, theyput its garrison to death, and burnt the town. 

Rather more than a century after, Owen Glendower attempted to take thecastle, which was so gallantly defended by the governor placed in it byHenry the Fourth, that he was compelled to raise the siege. During theCivil Wars it was captured by the Parliamentary forces, under GeneralMytton. Such are the chief historical events I recollect connected withthe fine old ruin. 

A considerable number of trading vessels were alongside the quays, taking in slate and copper ore, the chief products of the district. Enormous quantities of slate are exported from Wales. 

We remained a night here, as it was too late to run through the Straitsto Bangor. Early the following morning, however, the wind was fair, andwe continued on the same course. The tide also favoured us. Had itbeen against us, as it runs at the rate of between five and six miles anhour, we should have made but little progress. The shores are high andpicturesque, with villages here and there, and some handsome residences, the finest belonging to the Marquis of Anglesea. 

We soon came in sight of the tubular bridge carrying the railway acrossthe Straits. The distance between the cliffs on either shore is elevenhundred feet. It was curious, as we sailed under it, to look up to aheight of one hundred and four feet, and to see these two enormous tubesabove our heads. Their total length is one thousand eight hundred andthirty-three feet, which includes two hundred and thirty feet at eitherend resting on the land. The tubes are composed of wrought-iron plates, three quarters of an inch thick, tightly riveted together, the onecarrying the up, and the other the down line. The bridge is supportedby three vast piers, measuring sixty-two feet by fifty-three feet attheir base. This wonderful work is considered to surpass that of theMenai Bridge. It may be asked how these tubes could ever have been gotup to their present positions. This was accomplished by means ofhydraulic presses of the most powerful description; indeed, it isasserted that one of them could throw a stream of water twenty thousandfeet into the air, --above five times higher than Snowdon, and fivethousand feet higher than the summit of Mont Blanc. The bridge wascommenced in 1846 by Robert Stephenson, and the first train passedthrough it on the 1st of March, 1850; since which time no accident hashappened to it. 

A little further on we saw above us the celebrated Menai Bridge. Thepiers are each one hundred and fifty three feet high, and five hundredand fifty three feet apart. Sixteen iron chains, one thousand sevenhundred and fifteen feet in length, pass from pier to pier, and supportthe bridge. The chains have a dip in the centre of forty-four feet, thus allowing the roadway to have a clear elevation of a hundred feetabove high-water at spring tide. These sixteen chains are carriedthrough sixty feet of solid rock. The whole length of the bridge isabout one-third of a mile, including four arches at one end, and threeat the other, which carry the road out to the two suspending piers. Thebridge was opened in January, 1826. It was designed by Thomas Telford, the engineer. The work occupied six years, and cost 120, 000 pounds, --much less than an ironclad, and infinitely more useful and durable. Before it was built people had to cross by a dangerous ferry. We weresurprised to hear that the compensation given to the owners of the ferryfor the surrender of their right amounted to 26, 577 pounds--the annualincome of the ferry being computed at 815 pounds 18 shillings. 

We sailed on to Bangor, before which we brought-up in the Bay ofBeaumaris. There is not much to see in the town itself, except that itis pleasantly situated. By climbing the hill above it we obtained afine view over the island of Anglesea. 

Our chief object in coming here was to see the slate quarries atPenrhyn. They are of enormous extent, and not less than three thousandmen and boys are employed in them, whose wages amount to upwards of 2000pounds per week; and it is calculated that upwards of 11, 000 people, including wives and children, find subsistence from working thesequarries. A railway conveys the slate about six miles, to the shores ofthe Menai Straits; and upwards of 70, 000 tons of slate are annuallyexported, the income derived from them being 250, 000 pounds per annum. They are the property of the noble owner of the magnificent PenrhynCastle. 

We passed through the village of Llandegai--a model of beauty andneatness--situated at the chief entrance of the castle grounds. Wecrossed over by the ferry to Beaumaris, in the island of Anglesea. Itis a very picturesque place, on the north-western side of the bay calledafter it. The distance across the bay is about eight miles. From theshore we could distinguish Penmaenmawr, Puffin Island, Great Orme'sHead, Conway Bay, and other interesting spots. The distance round thewhole island is about eighty miles. On the western shore lies theisland of Holyhead, joined to Anglesea by a bridge. This little islandis made the chief port of departure for the Irish coast. 

The appearance of Anglesea is not picturesque, as the country is level, and there are few trees; but it is surrounded by rocks on the northernshore. The most rugged portion is Moelfre Bay, where the unfortunateRoyal Charter was wrecked, when so many people lost their lives. 

Anglesea was the last part of England in which the Druids practisedtheir rites. Many of the Druidical remains still exist, the mostremarkable of which are called cromlechs--flat stones resting uponothers, probably serving as altars. Anglesea was governed by its nativeprinces until the reign of Edward the First, when it became subject toEngland. We made our way to the ivy-covered castle, which stands ashort distance from the town. It is nearly square, has a round tower ateach angle, and another at each side, and is surrounded by low massivewalls. The inner court is about one hundred and ninety feet square. Tothe north-west of it stands the banqueting hall, seventy feet long. Onthe east side is a chapel, in the Early English style of architecture. The castle was built by Edward the First, soon after those of Conway andCaernarvon. It was surrounded by a deep fosse, which could be filled bywater from the sea. It held out like that of Caernarvon, but wascaptured by the Parliamentary forces under General Mytton. 

We got back late, and did not sail until next morning, when we stood forthe entrance of Conway harbour, but had to pull up to the town in aboat. 

We have seen many interesting places; but as we gazed up at the greatwalls of the ancient castle of Conway, we agreed it is the mostbeautiful and picturesque of them all. 

I can give only a brief description of the town. It is surrounded by awall twelve feet thick, and a mile and a quarter in length, havingtwenty-seven towers and battlements. One of them is called Llewellyn's. It is entered by five gates, three principal, and one postern; andanother has been formed to admit a suspension-bridge across the river, similar to that constructed by Mr Telford across the Menai Straits. Mr Stephenson also designed the tubular bridge through which theHolyhead railway passes. The town contains some very picturesquehouses, built in the time of Elizabeth. 

The castle stands on the verge of a precipitous rock on the south-eastcorner of the town. Its walls are triangular in shape, being said toresemble a Welsh harp; they are fifteen feet thick, and are strengthenedby twenty-one towers. The most striking portion is Queen Eleanor'sTower; the most curious is the Fragment Tower. Two centuries ago someof the inhabitants, searching for slate, undermined it, when a portionfell, leaving a perfect arch, since which period not a stone has fallenaway, and it is still as firm as ever. We wandered round and round thecastle, wondering at the massiveness of the masonry. It would havestill been perfect--for it was spared by the Parliamentary forces whocaptured it--had not a Lord Conway, in Charles the Second's reign, stripped off the timber, lead, and other materials to sell. Thevessels, however, conveying the materials to Ireland, were lost, and thegreedy baron gained nothing by the barbarous proceeding. 

Pulling down the river, we returned on board, and immediately gettingunder weigh, beat out of Beaumaris Bay. Having taken a look at Puffin'sIsland, and rounded the lofty promontory of Great Orme's Head, with afair wind, we stood for the mouth of the Mersey. 

By keeping very close in shore for some distance we got a view ofLlandudno, now become a fashionable watering-place, and sightedAbergele, where the fearful railway accident happened some years ago, when so many people were crushed or burnt to death. We also passed overthe spot where the Ocean Monarch was burnt, almost close to the land;yet out of nearly four hundred passengers, nearly half were lost. Theship was so near the beach that good swimmers could easily have reachedthe shore. The survivors were rescued by the boats of various vesselswhich came to their assistance. 

It was getting dusk when we sighted the bright light on Ayr Point at themouth of the river Dee. As the navigation of the Mersey is difficultduring the dark, we ran up the river a short distance, and came to ananchor off the town of Mostyn. 

The Dee is a most picturesque river, from its source in Merionethshireto Chester; but its navigation at the mouth is somewhat difficult, owingto the large deposits of sand, which have to a great extent blocked upthe channel. Between Chester and the mouth are two nourishing towns, Holywell and Flint. The chief wealth of Flintshire consists in its leadmines, which are very productive; and not only is lead dug up, butsilver, of which about ten ounces is found in every ton of ore. Flinthas a castle; but it is not equal in picturesque beauty, we are told, tothose we had already seen. 

Before daylight we were again under weigh, as we had numerouslighthouses and lightships to guide us; indeed, no river is moreperfectly lighted than the Mersey, for numerous shoals lie at itsentrance, and few rivers have so many vessels standing in and out at allhours. We counted no less than eight lights as we sailed along. 

Daylight broke as we came off the mouth of the river; and the wind beingfair and moderate, we stood up without fear of getting on shore. Wefollowed a homeward-bound clipper fruit vessel, passing the entrance tonumerous fine docks, and shipping of all descriptions. We picked up atolerably safe berth among several other yachts. It was well we got upwhen we did, for soon afterwards the whole river seemed covered withspluttering, hissing, smoking, panting, busy little steam-vessels, crossing to Birkenhead, on the Chester shore, or running up the river ordown the river, or visiting vessels at anchor in the stream. The tidealso had just turned. The wind being light and fair, numbers ofoutward-bound ships got under weigh, carried on their course by steamerslashed alongside. As soon as we had dressed and breakfasted, we pulledto a landing-stage outside the docks. 

Giving a description of Liverpool is out of the question. We made ourway over bridges until we reached the quays, and then through streetswith enormously high warehouses, many of them constructed entirely ofiron. We passed the Custom House, which stands on the very site ofLyrpul, the old pool from which Liverpool derives its name having beenlong since filled up. It is said to be one of the most magnificentpieces of architecture that our age has produced. Near the Custom Houseis the Exchange, with a wide square in front; and further to the leftthe parish church of Saint Nicholas, interesting from its antiquity. Passing along a fine street, we reached Saint George's Hall, a sumptuousCorinthian building, upwards of four hundred feet in length. As withinit the judicial proceedings of Liverpool are conducted, it is known asthe Assize Court. The most interesting place we visited near the waterwas the Sailors' Home, a fine building, opened in 1850. At each corneris a square tower, surmounted by a dome, the summit of which is onehundred feet from the ground. Passing through the Canning Placeentrance, we entered a lofty hall, surrounded by galleries communicatingwith rooms on the several floors. The building contains a largedining-hall, a lecture-room, reading-room, savings bank, and nauticalschool. Both officers and men are received, and a seaman may lodgethere a day, or for as long a time as he remains in port, during whichtime he is provided with board and medical attendance at a very moderaterate. 

After walking through the streets of Liverpool, we crossed by a ferry toBirkenhead, and made our way to a spot of high ground, from whence wecould obtain a complete panoramic view of the town and river. Lookingto our right, we saw the Mersey flowing from the south in a northerlydirection towards the Irish Sea. Below us, in the midst of the stream, we could distinguish, extending in a long line from right to left, someof the largest merchant-ships in the world. There were also smallercraft of every description, with the flags of nearly all nations flyingfrom their mast-heads, either ready to sail, waiting for orders, orpreparing to go into dock; while others, with wide-spread canvas, orwith steam tugs alongside, were coming up or down the river. Before uswe made out a huge tobacco warehouse, and behind it, dock beyond dock, far away to the south, and still further towards the sea and the north. On one side was the King's Dock, the Queen's Basin and Dock, the CoburgDock, the Union Dock, and the Brunswick Dock--"their names showing, " aspapa observed, "the periods at which they were formed. " To the north ofKing's Dock we saw the Albert Dock, with the Marine Parade in front ofit; also Salthouse Dock, Canning Dock, George's Dock, with itslanding-stage towards the river; and the enormous Prince's Dock stillfurther to the south, and a line of basins and docks beyond. Thesedocks are not small pools, but large rectangular lakes, crowded thicklywith magnificent shipping loaded with the produce of numberlesscountries, their tall masts rising towards the sky in dense groves, their yards so interlocked that it seemed impossible that they couldever be extricated. The sight gave us some idea of the number ofvessels which belong to Liverpool, or annually visit this port. 

Beyond this double row of docks we saw the vast city rising graduallyfrom the water, with winding streets extending from the Custom House inall directions, the larger running eastward, with numerous churches andother public buildings scattered amid them; and far beyond, squares andparks, with streets of handsome private residences. 

Little more than a century ago Liverpool possessed only three smalldocks, and the shipping belonging to the port amounted to only 236vessels. At present upwards of 10, 000 vessels belong to the port; whilethe ships entered outwards and inwards number upwards of 30, 000, with aburden of more than four million tons. We went on board a training-shipfor poor boys taken from the streets, to fit them for becoming seamen inthe merchant service. There is also another ship to prepare officers, conducted on the same principle as that of the Worcester in the Thames. We then pulled on board a large Australian emigrant ship about to sail. She carried three classes of passengers. The first had very handsomecabins surrounding the saloon, which was fitted up in a luxurious style. On the deck below there were the second-class passengers, whose cabinswere comfortable, but confined, and their mess-cabin was rather smallfor the number of people to occupy it. The larger part of the lowerdeck was fitted with rough wooden berths, partitioned off for eachfamily, one sleeping-place being above the other, and a small space infront for the people to dress in. There was an after division occupiedby the single women, who had a matron to superintend them; while thesingle men were also in a division by themselves. They were all underthe care of a surgeon. There was a schoolmaster, to teach those whowished to learn during the voyage, and to act as chaplain. Constableswere selected from amongst the most respectable of the married men, whose duty it was to keep order, and to see that the rules andregulations were properly observed. Of course, with so many peoplecrowded together, it is highly necessary that cleanliness should beattended to. The ship was getting under weigh, and the people who hadcome to see their relatives and friends off were ordered into theirboats. We witnessed many pathetic scenes. There was much fluttering ofhandkerchiefs as the boats pulled away, while the women crowded thesides, and the men climbed up into the shrouds and waved their hats. The moorings were slipped, the tug began puffing and snorting, and thestout ship commenced her voyage half round the world, bearing away manywho were never again to see their native shores. Many thousands ofpeople thus leave Liverpool for Australia, New Zealand, or the Cape, aswell as for Canada, the United States, and South America, every year. 

It took us four days to obtain even a cursory view of Liverpool andBirkenhead. We were very glad to be at sea again. The weather was hot, and running about all day was tiring work. Leaving the river, westeered along the Lancashire coast, but did not put into any of itsnumerous harbours, contenting ourselves with looking at the chart andreading a description of each place as we came off it. Our course wasfor the Mull of Galloway, the most southern point of Scotland; but wecould not steer directly for it, as we should have run down the Isle ofMan, "and sunk it, for what we could tell, " as Dick observed. We hadtherefore to keep to the eastward of that island. Among the places wepassed were Lytham, Blackpool, and Fleetwood; and then, crossingMorecambe Bay, we passed Walney, to the south of the river Duddon. FromFleetwood a number of vessels run across to the Isle of Man. We weremuch amused on coming on deck in the morning to hear Dick Pepper remark:

"Hullo! what's become of the land?"

It was the first time that we had been actually out of sight of land. 

"How shall we manage to find our way now?" he asked. 

I pointed to the compass. 

"That will take us there, " I answered. 

"Oh, yes; but suppose it made a mistake? We should be running on tosome coast or other before we knew where we were. "

"We crossed the big sea, " observed Nat, "and for days and days togetherwe did not see any land. "

I got out the chart, and showed Dick the point of Ayr, the most northernpart of the Isle of Man, towards which we were now directing our course. 

"We shall see it in the course of the morning. If you were to go to themast-head, you would probably make out the land to the south of it. "

"Are we to touch at the Isle of Man?" asked Dick. "I should _very_ muchlike to see some of the places described by Sir Walter Scott. "

"Papa says that we have no time, " I replied. "If we don't make morespeed than we have hitherto done, we shall not get round England beforethe summer is over; and the east coast is not to be trifled with. Although he says that we shall be unable to see many of the places hewould like to visit, we shall nevertheless obtain a general view of thecountry. "

I have not said much about Nat. Poor little fellow! He was quitereconciled to his lot, and had become completely one of us. We had asmuch affection for him as if he had been our brother. I took a specialinterest in him, as he was my pupil; and I devoted a part of every dayto teaching him. He was very obedient, and always did his best to learnhis lessons; so that it was quite a pleasure for me to instruct him. 

Dick was greatly astonished when papa came on deck with the sextant inhis hand, and "shot" the sun, as it is called; that is to say, heascertained our exact latitude by observing through the instrument theheight of the sun at noon. Placing it to his eye, he watched it untilit ceased to rise, the indicator showing the number of degrees it wasabove the horizon. The _Nautical Almanack_ gives the height it would beat noon on that day along every parallel so that a few figures enabledhim to ascertain how far north we had sailed. The way to find thelongitude, he explained to us, was by means of the chronometer. Anobservation is then taken of the sun, moon, or a star, which wouldappear at a certain height above the horizon at that particular hour. 

The wind fell before we reached the Isle of Man. In the evening we sawseveral bright lights burst forth--some on the Isle of Man, others onthe mainland. On the right we saw a fixed light, which the chart showedus was Saint Bees' Head; while another shone from the point of Ayr. Leaving Saint Bees' Head astern, with the light on the point of Ayr onour port beam, we came in sight of the intermittent light of the Mull ofGalloway. Most of these lights were visible at the same time; and as wesailed up the channel we could see those on the Irish coast, as well asthose on the coast of Scotland. 

When we came on deck the next morning, we were passing along the coastof Ayrshire, within sight of Ailsa Crag, a fine rock, which stands outof the sea to a great height. It is a mass of columnar trap of a greycolour. We steered so as to pass it on our starboard side. We had comein sight of the southern face, where we could distinguish a squaretower, perched on a terrace, about two hundred feet above the sea. Theascent to the summit must be no easy matter. As we sailed on, we cameoff the north-west side, which is almost perpendicular, and composed ofsuccessive tiers of enormous columns. Here we made out a cave, abovewhich was a grassy declivity sloping upwards towards the summit. Thoughit is at the very mouth of the Clyde, its great height causes it to beseen at a distance, preventing it being dangerous to vessels bound toGlasgow. Any person inclined to solitude might take up his abode there, and live without leaving it, as it is inhabited by numerous flocks ofsea-fowl, with goats and rabbits; while nettles, and a variety of hardyplants, grow in the interstices of the rocks. I asked Dick if he wouldlike to remain there, saying that I would get papa to put him on shore, if he wished it; but he declined the offer, preferring rather to go backto school at the end of the holidays. 

Passing Ayr and Troon, we came off Ardrossan, then stood on toPort-in-cross, close to Fairlie Head, which forms the south-easternpoint at the entrance of the Firth of Clyde. Opposite, in the distance, rose the Isle of Arran, with its lofty picturesque hills. We brought-upoff Port-in-cross for the night, as we wished to have daylight forascending the Clyde, so as to enjoy the scenery. 

Next morning, the wind being fair, we made good progress. The countryon our right, though very smiling and pretty, was not so grand as weexpected; but we saw, far away over the port-bow, blue mountains risingone beyond the other. Directly after getting under weigh, we passed twoislands, the Lesser Cumbrae, at the entrance of the Firth, and theGreater Cumbrae, a little higher up. 

To our right we saw the village of Largs, celebrated as the scene of agreat battle, won by the Scottish army, under Alexander the Third, overHaco, King of Norway. To our left was the Island of Bute. We sailed onnearly due north, until the channel gave a sudden bend, just after wehad passed the town of Greenock, a busy-looking place, with shipbuildingyards, and smoking chimneys, interesting to us because Watt was bornhere; near it we had seen on the opposite shore the village of Dunoon, apretty watering-place. The wind being from the southward, we were able, close-hauled, to stand up the Clyde. We passed Port Glasgow, which wasat one time really the port of Glasgow; but the river having beendeepened by dredges, vessels of large size can now run up to Glasgowitself. 

We appeared to be in quite a labyrinth of lochs, Holy Loch running up inone direction, Loch Long in another, and Gare Loch in a third, alljoining the Clyde on the north. We were eagerly looking out forDumbarton, which stands on a lofty projecting point of rock where theriver Leven runs into the Clyde. The scenery round us was the finest wehad yet beheld. The summit is crowned by bristling batteries pointingdown the Firth. Bringing up, that we might pay it a visit, we at oncepulled towards the Governor's house, which stands on a platform at thebase of the rock. We ascended a flight of steep steps to a spacebetween two summits, where are erected some barracks and the armoury. The most interesting object we saw was Wallace's great double-handedsword, which he wielded with such terrific power against his southernfoes. Of course, as we looked at it, we sang--

 "Scots wa' hae wi' Wallace bled. "

When the unfortunate Mary was Queen of Scots, in the year 1571, and theplace was in possession of her partisans, it was captured in anextraordinary manner by Crawford, of Jordan Hill, an officer of theLennox. He and a few followers, landing there during the night withladders, climbed the cliffs. During the ascent one of the party wasseized with a paralytic fit. As any sound would have aroused thegarrison, the man was lashed by his companions to the ladder. It wasthen turned round, and they all ascended, leaving him hanging thereuntil they had gained the fortress, when he was released. 

From this eminence we obtained a magnificent view over the Vale ofLeven, with lofty Ben Lomond in the distance; while the views down andup the Clyde were such as we had never seen surpassed in beauty. 

As papa and Uncle Tom did not wish to take the yachts further, we got onboard one of the steamers running up to Glasgow. During the passage wepassed numbers of steamers, large and small, rushing up and down thestream at a rapid rate; and sailing vessels of all sizes outward-bound, or returning home; the former laden with the cotton and woollenmanufactures produced in Glasgow and the neighbourhood, giving us someidea of the vast amount of trade carried on in the city. Curious-looking steam dredges were also at work, with wheels everrevolving, ladling up the mud from the bottom of the river--an endlesstask, for fresh mud is constantly being washed down from the upper partsof the stream. Clouds of smoke and increasing signs of activity showedus that we were approaching Glasgow. 

We took a hurried view of that famed city, wandered through its broadstreets, with stone-built houses and fine edifices, people bustlingabout, and numberless tall factory chimneys smoking; drays and cartscarrying merchandise from the quays, and everything wearing an air ofprosperity. We looked into the ancient sombre Cathedral, with itsbeautiful modern stained-glass windows, and visited the University, withits museum and library--the museum bequeathed by William Hunter, thegreat surgeon, who gave at the same time 8, 000 pounds to erect abuilding for its reception. 

Uncle Tom told us a story of Hunter's first lecture. Being unknown tofame, no one had come to hear him. On entering the hall, he found onlySandy McTavish, the old custos. He was not daunted, however. Biddingthe old man sit down, he brought a skeleton from a cupboard, and havingplaced it in front of him, he began to lecture to it and Sandy. Firstone student by chance looked in, and, seeing what was going forward, beckoned to another. In the course of a few minutes another dropped in, and soon discovered that no ordinary lecturer was speaking. The wholeaudience could not have amounted to a dozen; but they soon made a noiseabout what they had heard, and the next day the hall was crowded. 

Our next visit was to a fine cemetery across a valley above the town;and Dick declared that it would be quite a pleasure to be buried there. It was crowded with fine monuments to celebrated persons. 

Glasgow owes much of its prosperity to its situation in the midst of acountry producing coal and minerals, and having water communication downthe Clyde towards the west into the Atlantic, and through the greatcanal which connects that river with the Forth and German Ocean. We gotback to Dumbarton, where the Dolphin's boat was on the look-out for us, just at nightfall. 

It being moonlight, we sailed down the Clyde, and enjoyed the beautifulscenery under a different aspect. Had we possessed steam, we could haverun through the channel of Bute, and then up Loch Fyne, passing throughthe Crinan Canal into Loch Linnhe; but as that could not be done, we hadto sail round Arvan and the Mull of Cantyre, and then up the Sound ofJura. We thus lost the enjoyment of much magnificent scenery; but theshorter route would probably have taken us a far longer time to perform, as in those narrow waters we could only sail during daylight, and mightbe detained by a contrary wind. 

CHAPTER NINE. 

THE CALEDONIAN CANAL. 

The day after leaving the Clyde, we were coasting along the not veryattractive-looking island of Islay, inhabited by the Macdonalds. It wasoften the scene of forays, which one clan was wont to make on another, in the good old days, as people delight to call them, when the ancestorsof the present race were scarcely more civilised than the South Seaislanders. Though rock-girt, Islay is fertile, and a large portion hasbeen brought under a state of cultivation. 

A fair breeze, with the tide in our favour, carried us through the soundbetween the islands of Islay and Jura, the broadest part of which isabout a mile in width, and is lined by abrupt but not very high cliffs. More than a century ago, Islay received a visit from the French AdmiralThurot; and a few years later Paul Jones made a descent on the island, and captured a packet which had on board a Major Campbell, a nativegentleman, who had just returned with an independence from India, thelarger portion of which he unfortunately had with him in gold andjewels, of which, as may be supposed, the American privateer relievedhim. In later years another American privateer, "the true-bloodedYankee, " captured a considerable number of merchant vessels at anchor inPort Charlotte. 

We anchored at nightfall in a deep bay at the southern end of Colonsay, called Toulgoram. A narrow strait divides that little island from thestill smaller one of Oronsay. 

Next morning, before sailing, we pulled across the strait, which is dryat low water, and visited a ruined priory of considerable extent andtolerably entire. We saw also many other ruins of abbeys ormonasteries; indeed, the monks must have been almost as numerous as therabbits, which we saw running about in all directions. The wind stillfavouring us, we steered for the western end of Mull, and in a shorttime came in sight of its lofty cliffs; while we could see in thedistance astern the peaked mountains of Jura and the island of Scarba, between which lies the whirlpool of Corryvrechan, a place we had nodesire to visit. In stormy weather, when the tides rush through thepassage, a regular whirlpool is formed, which would prove thedestruction of any vessels attempting to pass that way. Standing on aheight above it, the waters are seen to leap, and bound, and tumble, then whirling along as over a precipice, then dashed together withinconceivable impetuosity, sometimes rising in a foaming mass to aprodigious height, and then opening and forming a vast abyss, while theroar of troubled waters as they strike against the rocky shore is heardfar and wide. 

We reached Iona in ample time to take a walk around the island. Thiswas the island on which the so called Saint Columba lived. It is aboutthree miles long, and one wide, and the most lofty hill is not more thanfour hundred feet in height. The remains show that the nunneries andmonasteries Columba established were of a very rude kind. It was lookedupon as a holy island, and many kings and chiefs were buried there. Macbeth was the last king of Scotland who had that honour paid him. Opposite the cathedral we saw a beautiful cross, carved in high relief. It had fallen down, but had been replaced on a basement of granite. 

The next place of interest before which we brought-up was the island ofStaffa. We could see in the distance the islands of Coll and Tiree. The latter, only about a mile and a half in circumference, rises out ofthe ocean to the height of about one hundred and forty-four feet. Before landing we sailed along the eastern shore, examining thewonderful caves and the fine colonnades which form its sides. One mightsuppose that it was rather a work of art than thrown up by Nature. Theyachts were hove-to, and we pulled off to examine the caves in theboats. One is known as the Clam Shell Cave, another as the Herdsman'sCave, and a third is denominated the Great Colonnade and Causeway. Thenthere comes the Boat Cave, and Mackinnon's Cave, and lastly, the mostmagnificent of all, Fingal's Cave. Into this we at once rowed. Iscarcely know how to describe it. On either side are lofty columns, mostly perpendicular, and remarkably regular, varying from two to fourfeet in diameter. The height of this wonderful cavern is sixty-six feetnear the entrance, but it decreases to twenty-two feet at the furtherend; it is two hundred and twenty-seven feet long, and forty-two wide. At one side is a causeway formed of the remains of broken columns, uponwhich people can walk to the very end. We next pulled into what iscalled the Boat Cave, where columns are even more regular than inFingal's Cave, but it is much smaller. Our last visit was toMackinnon's Cave; its sides are perfectly smooth, it is about fifty feethigh, and forty-eight broad, the roof being almost flat. We pulled onfor two hundred and twenty-four feet, until we reached a beach ofpebbles at the further end, when we appeared to be in a vast hall. Several places, where the tops of the columns crop up, have theappearance of a tesselated pavement. 

A steady breeze carried us in sight of Ardnamurchan, when, steering tothe east, standing close to the sea-coast, we passed Castle Mingary, thebattlemented walls of which presented no opening. A few miles furtheron we came to an anchor in the snug harbour of Tobermory. It is a verypicturesque village, situated at the foot of hills which run round thebay. We were told that one of the ships of the Invincible Armada, theFlorida, was sunk in the bay by something resembling a torpedo, manufactured by a renowned witch who lived in those days on Mull. Shewas instigated to the deed by the wife of Maclean of Duart. The ladyhad become jealous of a fair princess, who was voyaging on board theFlorida, and had fallen in love with her lord. It is asserted that theSpanish damsel was a daughter of the King of Spain; and having dreamedthat a young gentleman of engaging appearance had invited her to becomehis bride, was sailing round the world in search of him, when, on seeingMaclean, he seemed to be the creature of her fancy. 

Sailing from Tobermory, bound for the western coast of Skye, we passedthe island of Muck, an unpleasant-sounding name. To the north is thecurious island of Eig, the southern side of which is perfectly flat, butin the north rises a lofty perpendicular rock, called the Scuir of Eig. Within it is a large cavern, which was the scene of one of thoseatrocious acts in "the good old days" when might made right. Twohundred Macdonalds, fugitives from a superior number of Macleods, hadtaken refuge in the cavern, when, unfortunately for them, one of theirparty, having left the mark of his footsteps in the snow, their place ofconcealment was betrayed. The Macleods filled up the mouth of thecavern with wood and dried sea-weed, and setting it on fire, literallysmoked them to death. One of the Macdonalds being connected by marriagewith the Macleods, was offered permission to crawl out on his hands andknees, and to bring out four others along with him in safety; but havingselected a friend hated by the Macleods, who refused to spare the man'slife, he preferred to suffer death with his clansmen than to live onwithout them. Until quite a late period, the bones of the ill-fatedMacdonalds were still to be seen lying near the entrance. Say what wewill in favour of the Highlanders, they were a fearfully savage peoplein those days. 

The part of the Highlands amid which we were sailing was the scene ofmany of the Pretender's adventures. Had not Prince Charles been anexcellent climber, he would not have escaped his enemies, when they werehunting him like a hare. They nearly entrapped him in one of the manyrock fastnesses in which he took shelter. 

We passed along these coasts a continual succession of caves and wildrocks, presenting the appearance of ruined castles, Gothic arches, buttresses, towers, and gateways; others again having a curiousresemblance to faces, profiles, even ships under sail. 

Passing the Point of Sleat, at the southern end of Skye, we sailed upthe wild and grand Loch Scavaig. Rising up abruptly from the water arerugged mountains of a dark and gloomy aspect, --the bare rocks alone areseen without a particle of vegetation. Their metallic appearance arisesfrom their being composed of a mineral called hypersthene. On eitherside rose sharp peaks, one called the Shouting Mountain, another theNotched Peak; while a small island at the foot of another height, calledthe Hill of Dispute, goes by the name of the Island of theSlippery-Step. From its appearance no one would wish to land there. Not a tree was to be seen. 

"The essence of savagedom!" cried Uncle Tom. 

"Well, grand; yes, very grand!" exclaimed Oliver; "but I'd rather notlive here. "

"I shouldn't like to be on shore there during an earthquake!" criedDick. "A fellow would chance to have his head broken if those mountainsshould begin to tumble about. "

An artist who came here is said to have thrown away his pencil indespair; but it is still more difficult to give a description of theplace in words. Having selected a spot for anchoring, with the help ofa fisherman who acted as our pilot, we pulled on shore, and making ourway over about four hundred yards of rock by the side of a small stream, we reached the dark fresh water Loch Coruisk, round which rose a circleof gigantic barren mountains of purple hue. On this side the sun wasshining brightly, lighting up the pointed crags, while the other wasthrown into the deepest shade. 

"I shouldn't like to find myself here in the evening, without knowing myway out!" exclaimed Dick. "I wonder how the clouds manage to get overthose tall peaks. "

Dick might have wondered, for several of them are nearly three thousandfeet in height; and on the topmost, called the Black Peak, probably nohuman foot has ever trod. 

"Just give a shout, sir, " said the fisherman, who, having been on boarda man-of-war in his youth, spoke English. As he uttered the words hegave a loud hail, the echo coming back with wonderful distinctness. Weall followed his example, and it seemed as if a thousand people were allshouting together in chorus, --the sound at length dying away, apparentlymany a mile off. Dick then began to laugh, and immediately a laugh cameback, which set us all laughing, and a curious chorus we had, till ourjaws began to ache from over-exertion. 

We then made our way out of this wild region, not sorry to get on board, and to dive down into the comfortable cabin of the Dolphin, where dinnerwas waiting us. Still, although everything was familiar round us in theconfined space of the yacht's cabin, so deeply impressed on my visionwas the grand wild scene outside, that I could not help viewing it overthe sides and back of the vessel, and I never for one moment lost theconsciousness of where we were. 

We remembered that it was at Coruisk that Bruce encountered CormackDoil. Sir Walter Scott makes him say:

 "A scene so wild, so rude as this, Yet so sublime in barrenness, Ne'er did my wandering footsteps press, Where'er I happ'd to roam. "

At dawn next morning we left this wild bay, not without regret, thoughDick declared that he felt much happier when he was once more on theopen sea. We then sailed along the western coast of Skye, looking intomany other places (which, if not so wild and grand, were highlypicturesque), until we reached Dunvegan Loch; and making our way amidseveral small islands, we came to an anchor a short distance from thecastle, and took to the boat. The castle stands on a rock projectinginto the water, protected by a stream on one side and a moat on theother, and before conical shot were invented must have been a verystrong place. Though it retains much of its ancient and imposingappearance, it is still in perfect repair, and is of great extent. Itbelongs to Macleod of Macleod, whose father and grandfather expendedlarge sums in making it one of the most comfortable residences in theWestern Highlands. On the side next the sea is a low wall, pierced withembrasures, while a handsome centre building is also surmounted bybattlements. There are two towers, one of which the steward, whopolitely showed us over the castle, said was built in the ninth century, and the other was added in the thirteenth. Doctor Johnson paid thiscastle a visit, and was hospitably received by the laird. 

We were shown the drinking-horn of Sir Roderick Macleod, an ancestor ofthe family, and the remains of a "fairy flag, " made of stout yellowsilk, which used to be unfurled when the tide of battle was turningagainst the Macleods, and which always had the effect of again turningit in their favour. 

Again getting under weigh, we sailed round the northern end of Skye, upthe Sound of Raasay, between the small island of that name and Skye, toPortree. It stands on the end of a point of land, far up a deepharbour, and is a picturesque-looking place. 

Here we had a long discussion as to our future proceedings. It wasfinally settled that Uncle Tom should sail round the north of Scotlandin the Dolphin, while we were to go south again, and through theCaledonian Canal, waiting for him off Fort George, at the mouth of theMoray Firth. 

Early in the morning we sailed with the Dolphin, to accompany her as faras the Island of Rona, to the north of Raasay, where we looked into acurious little loch, at the head of which is a farm-house. The owner--as is the case with most people residing on that shore--had been aseafaring man. He had gone away to Skye, and was expected back by hisloving wife, when a furious gale arose. To light him on his way, shehad been accustomed to place a large lamp in the window of the cottage, which looked down on the loch. On that night she trimmed it with doublecare. In vain, however, she sat and watched; hour after hour passed byas she waited, expecting to hear her husband's cheerful voice as he cameon shore, calling out to her amid the howling storm; but in vain shewatched. Day dawned, and the little vessel had not reached heraccustomed moorings. The next night her lamp was lighted as usual. When the storm abated, tidings came that portions of a wrecked vesselhad been picked up on the shore; but she hoped against hope that itmight not be her husband's craft. Still, though he came not, shelighted the lamp. Night after night, and month after month, that brightlight streamed forth from the solitary cottage on the beach; and many astorm-tossed vessel owed its safety to that unpretending beacon. Atlength the Scottish Commissioners of Lighthouses heard of this volunteerlighthouse. An annual sum of money was voted for its support, and thewidow received a lamp with reflectors, with a supply of oil to keep herlamp burning. The commissioners paid her and her family a visit; and, though years have passed, that lamp burns as brightly as ever. 

As papa wished Oliver to see the Caledonian Canal, he had returned onboard the Lively. We now parted from the Dolphin, saluting each otherwith loud cheers; and while she sailed northward, with the wind on thebeam, we steered south through the broad passage which separates Raasayfrom the mainland. 

"I'll tell you all about the northern coast and John o' Groat's House;and you shall give me an account of the canal, though I don't envy you, "shouted Jack, as we parted. 

The wind sometimes headed us, but we saw more of the coast until, passing Applecross, we reached the Island of Scalpa. We then had a fairwind past Loch Carron to Loch Alsh, which lies between one end of Skyeand the mainland. Steering due east, we ran through it, and then againhad to haul up to pass through the narrow channel which separates thesouth end of Skye from the main. 

Hauling our wind, we stood through a very narrow passage, and enteredSleat Sound, a broad expanse, when once more we had Eig in sight on ourstarboard bow, and passed the entrance to numerous lochs, many of them, like Loch Hourn and Loch Nevish, between lofty mountains. Passing Muckand then Ardnamurchan on our port side, we entered Loch Sunart. Runningby Tobermory with the wind nearly aft, we entered the Sound of Mull, which carried us into Loch Linnhe, opposite the Island of Lismore. Justopposite to us, on the south end of the island, we saw AuchindownCastle, a lofty square building on the top of a rock rising out of thesea, which was once in possession of the Bishops of Argyle and theIsles, but which is much more like a castle than an episcopal residence. 

Standing on, with the wind on our port beam, we ran up Loch Linnhe, passing the entrance to Loch Leven, near to which is the Pass ofGlencoe, where, as every one knows, Mac Ian, the chief of the Macdonaldsof Glencoe, with a number of his family and followers, was treacherouslymurdered by Campbell of Glen Lyon, and a party of military under hiscommand. 

It was dark when we reached Fort William, at the head of Loch Linnhe, though the water still ran a long way, turning to the left and formingLoch Eil. This loch gives its name to a branch of the Camerons, towhich belonged one of the most redoubtable opponents of Cromwell in theHighlands--Sir Ewan Cameron. In consequence, the Protector built a fortat Inverloch, which in King William's reign was greatly enlarged, receiving the name of Fort William. 

Beyond the fort to the eastward we saw Ben Nevis, while to the north wasthe entrance to the Caledonian Canal. Not far off from Loch Eil is LochShiel, at the head of which is the spot where, on the 19th of August, 1745, Prince Charles Edward unfurled his standard, when he made theaudacious attempt to win the crown which his ancestor had forfeited. Onthat occasion the then Lord of Lochiel headed seven hundred of the clanCamerons, who with three hundred of the Macdonnells formed the chiefpart of the hapless band. Of course, they thought themselves very finefellows, and were so, in one sense, though terribly mistaken; and hadthey succeeded they would have brought ruin and misery on the country. A monument was erected on the spot, some years ago, by one of theMacdonnells, and a bronze tablet on it records what took place. 

As soon as daylight broke we went on shore, and walked to the old castleof Inverlochy. It stands above the river, and consists of four largeround towers connected by high walls, forming an extensive quadrangle. The greater part is entire; indeed, the walls being ten feet thick arecalculated to stand for ages. A moat surrounds the walls. Theprincipal entrance is on the south-east side, and directly opposite itis a sally-port. Above the gateway was a guard-room, defended by irongates and a heavy portcullis. 

Below its frowning towers, the Marquis of Montrose defeated the Duke ofArgyle, in the year 1645. It was just when the first rays of the sunshot athwart Ben Nevis, that, having led his men across pathless wildscovered deep with snow, he pounced down on the astonished Campbells, whowere driven back in confusion, when numbers were slaughtered or drownedin the waters of Loch Eil. Of the latter, fifteen hundred men fell;while only three of Montrose's soldiers were killed, and one officerwounded. 

As soon as we got back we made sail; and no other vessel impeding us, weentered the basin of Bannavie, from which a series of eight locks, called Neptune's Staircase, raised us to the level of Loch Lochy. Itwas rather tiresome, though at the same time interesting work, to seethe yacht lifted gradually up step by step, while the water rushed downfrom the lock above to raise that on which we floated to its own level. Whoever first thought of such a contrivance deserves great credit. 

As the wind was perfectly fair, we sailed along the canal for abouteight miles without any impediment. It is deep and broad, and wouldallow a very much larger vessel than our little yacht to pass throughit. It was on the banks of the river Lochy that a body of King George'ssoldiers first encountered the Macdonnells of Glengarry, who were up inarms for Charles Edward, when the former, being greatly overpowered, hadto yield themselves prisoners. 

Soon after entering the lake, we came off the house of Achnacarry, themansion of Lochiel, on the northern side. The mountains on the southside extended nearly the whole distance of the lake without any break, while those on the other are rent by numerous gullies. The ground, though covered with heather, had few trees to ornament it. We werequite sorry when, in about an hour and a half, we had again to enter thecanal, which quickly carried us into the small, pretty Loch Oich. Wepassed two or three islets decked with trees, which greatly embellishthem. On the north side the mountains of Glengarry shot up in asuccession of high and bold peaks. Below them is the castle ofInvergarry, standing on a rock overlooking the waters of the loch. 

The last Glengarry who claimed to be the Lord of the Isles, instead ofLord Macdonald of Sleat, resided here, and did his utmost to keep up therecollection of former days by his mode of life. On his death hisproperty was bought by Lord Ward. 

We passed a curious monument raised by the last Glengarry over what isknown as the "Well of the Seven Heads. " It consists of a pyramid, withseven human heads carved in stone placed on the summit. The story isthat two sons of Keppoch, a branch of the Macdonalds, having been sentto be educated in France, their affairs were managed by seven brothers, who, on the return of the young men, murdered them, in order that theymight continue in possession of their property. The old family bard, discovering the bloody act, applied to the Glengarry of those days forassistance; and having been furnished with a body of men, caught theassassins, and cut off their heads, which, after having washed in thespring, he presented to the noble chief in Glengarry Castle. 

Just before leaving Loch Oich we passed Aberchalder, anunpretending-looking house, where the forces of Prince Charles assembledbefore crossing Corryarrick. We soon reached Fort Augustus, when wedescended by some locks into Loch Ness, where, on account of the depthof water, we had to anchor close to the shore, with warps made fast tosome trees, to prevent our drifting away. As there was nothing to seeat Fort Augustus, the garrison having been removed, we did not go onshore. 

At an early hour the next morning we got under weigh, and glided downLoch Ness, which is twenty-four miles long, and about a mile and aquarter broad, although it is narrower in some places. The depth isvery great, in some parts one hundred and thirty fathoms. Inconsequence of this the water seldom freezes in the loch. The ruggedand heath-covered mountains rise on either side to the height of about athousand feet; and frequently we saw growing on them forests of oak, ash, elm, and other trees, with a thick underwood of hazel and hollyintermingled with a profusion of wild roses. 

About midway we passed the lofty dome of Mealfourvournie, rising insolitary grandeur to the height of upwards of four thousand feet. Herethere were tracts of cultivated ground; and in the openings of GlenUrquhart and Glenmoriston we came in sight of fields andsubstantial-looking houses. A few miles further we passed under amagnificent precipice crowned by pines. Not far distant we came to theHouse of Foyers, where we landed and hurried up the glen to the falls. We got down to the bottom of the perpendicular cliffs, over which wecould see a large volume of water rushing with headlong force and speed, bubbling, foaming, and roaring into the channel which leads to the loch. Above us was a bridge thrown across the chasm, while the mountain sideswere clothed with graceful birch and other trees. We had brought a copyof Burns, whose lines on the subject begin:

 "Among the heathy hills and ragged woods The roaring Foyers pours his mossy floods; Till full he dashes on the rocky mounds, Where through a shapeless breach his stream resounds. "

which describe the falls far better than I can do. 

Hurrying back, we continued our voyage. We passed the mouth of the deepdenied Inverfarigaig, with the black rock resembling a ruin above it, and further on Urquhart Castle, built on a detached rock overlooking theloch, the most conspicuous object being a strong square keep, surmountedby four turrets. The banks of the loch now appeared far more cultivatedthan at the other end. Sailing through little Loch Dochfour, we againentered the canal, which runs down into Loch Beauly; while the riverNess, which we had on our right side, falls into the Moray Firth, closeto Inverness, which stands on a plain about a mile off. 

It was curious to be looking from the deck of our yacht down on the lochso far below us, while we could see on either side of the town thefar-famed battlefield of Culloden, where Prince Charles and his haplessfollowers were so signally defeated by the Duke of Cumberland. 

Descending the locks at Muirtown, we could see in the far distance, guarding the entrance to the upper part of the mouth of the Moray Firth, the walls of Fort George extending out into the blue water. On reachingthe ocean level, we at once made sail, standing for Inverness. By thetime we dropped our anchor it was dark, so that we did not go on shoreuntil the following morning. We then took a ramble round the town. 

It stands on both sides of the river, across which a handsome stonebridge is thrown, but the finer portion is on the east side. Themonasteries and churches were mostly knocked to pieces by OliverCromwell; but a good many fine buildings have been erected of lateyears, one of the most important of which is the Academy. 

Inverness has always been a place of importance, and from its situationhas a considerable trade. It was looked upon also as the capital of thenorth of Scotland. The inhabitants were staunch Jacobites, and verymuch inclined to be lawless, though at the present day they are aspeaceably disposed as any in the country. Expecting to encounterstalwart Highlanders in kilts, with dirks by their sides, we weredisappointed to meet only staid-looking burghers and labouring men, inthe ordinary dress of the present day. 

There was a castle, built by Cromwell to overawe the turbulentinhabitants, but it was pulled down, and the inhabitants had erectedmany of their houses with the materials. We, however, took a walk overthe ramparts, which still remain. Here Queen Mary had her quarters forsome time, protected by the clansmen of Frazer, Mackenzie, Munroe, andothers, who kept the garrison of the castle in awe. 

Far more interesting is an account we obtained of the Caledonian Canal, which may truly be said to make an island of Sutherland, Caithness, Cromarty, Rosshire, and a part of Inverness. The canal was designed byWatt, as far back as 1773; but the present work was not commenced untilthe year 1804, when Telford was directed to make a report on thesubject. By his plan the canal was to be one hundred and ten feet wideat the surface and fifty feet at the bottom, and the depth of watertwenty feet; so that a thirty-two gun frigate of that day, fullyequipped and laden with stores, could pass through it. The works, however, were carried out on more moderate proportions. There aretwenty-eight locks, each one hundred and seventy feet long and fortyfeet wide, with an average lift of eight feet. Some of the lock gatesare of timber, and others are of cast-iron, sheathed with pine planking. The summit level is in Loch Oich, into which pour a number of streams, supplying an abundance of water for both sides. It stands exactly onehundred feet above high-water mark at Inverness. The extreme lengthfrom sea to sea is sixty and a half miles; and so direct is thecontinuity of the lakes that a line drawn across from point to pointwould only exceed the distance by rather more than three miles. Thereare twenty-two miles of canal cutting, and thirty-eight and a half milesof lake water is made available for the canal. 

We found passing through the lakes the pleasantest part of the voyage. We might have been many days doing the distance, had we not had afavourable breeze. The wind changed directly after we reachedInverness, of which we were very glad, as it gave us some hopes of soonmeeting the Dolphin, which we feared must have been detained off John o'Groat's House. 

We made several trips down to Fort George, to look out for the Dolphin. At length one evening, having stood further down the Firth and lookinginto Cromarty, made classic by having been the scene of many of HughMiller's rambles, we caught sight of a small white sail, shiningbrightly in the rays of the setting sun. Papa, taking the glass, lookedsteadily at her, and then, to our great satisfaction, declared hisbelief that she was the Dolphin. We immediately tacked towards her, andin a short time heard Uncle Tom's cheerful hail across the water. Weimmediately hove-to, and the Dolphin doing the same, papa and I pulledon board her. They were in good spirits, although they had begun tothink that they should never get round Duncansby Head, which is close toJohn o' Groat's House, until the wind drawing once more from thewestward, they had reached Wick, the great resort of fishing vessels. After this they had a dead beat until they sighted Tarbet-nessLighthouse, on the northern side of the Moray Firth. Their furtheradventures they kept for another day. 

"I am glad to get back again to you, " exclaimed Dick; "it's dull worksailing all alone. I confess that I sometimes thought you would neverget through overland; for by no other way, it seems to me, could youhave come, except along those little trout ponds I saw marked on themap. "

Dick was not a little astonished when we told him the size of the canaland its locks, and that a vessel very much larger than the Dolphin couldhave got through with equal ease. 

We had brought an abundance of fresh provisions for both yachts, andwere glad to find that Uncle Tom did not wish to go to Inverness; and weaccordingly shaped our course for Kinnaird's Head, not intending totouch at any place on the Scotch coast until we reached Aberdeen. 

CHAPTER TEN. 

ANOTHER WRECK. 

As we sailed down the Moray Firth with a northerly wind, which enabledus to stand close in shore, the water being perfectly smooth, we passednumerous headlands, the names of which we learned from the chart. Afterthe mountainous scenery amid which we had been sailing, the shore lookedflat and uninteresting. 

I had thus plenty of time to attend to little Nat, who was fast becomingvery dear to all of us. We looked forward with regret to the time whenhe might be sent away to join his friends, should they be found. He hadlearned to walk the deck in true nautical style; and in his sailor'ssuit, with his broad-brimmed straw hat, he looked every inch a youngseaman. He was generally in capital spirits, apparently forgetting hisloss; but if any allusion brought back to his remembrance his father, mother, or Aunt Fanny, his brothers and sisters, the tears sprang to hiseyes, and he looked grave and sad. 

Happily, however, a cheerful word brought him back to his usual mood, and he became as merry as ever. 

"Do you know, Harry, " he said to me one day, "I intend to be a sailor. I should like to have just such a vessel as this, and cruise about theworld that you tell me is round, though I cannot make it out; still, asyou say so, I am sure it is. "

I pointed to the top-gallant sails of a vessel on which the sun wasshining brightly, --"Now, watch that sail, and in a short time you willsee her topsails, and then her courses, and then the hull. If the worldwas not round, we should see them all at once, just as clearly as we nowsee the top-gallant sails. "

As I spoke I took up a large ball of spun yarn, and placing a splinteron it, I advanced the piece of wood gradually until he saw the whole ofit. "Now, this splinter represents that ship, " I said, pointing to it. "As we also are moving towards her, we shall soon see all her sails andher hull. "

Nat kept watching the ship with intense interest; and although summonedto luncheon, he begged that he might have something brought up to him, so that he could watch her hull come in sight. This in a short timehappened, when he clapped his hands and shouted--

"Now I know that the world is round; but I thought it was so very big itcould make no difference. "

"Well, " exclaimed Dick, who had been listening to my remark, "I neverknew before how it was people guessed that the world was round. I sawships' sails popping up out of the ocean, but had not any idea how itwas, and did not like to ask. "

"There you showed your want of wisdom, " observed papa; "you should havetried to think the matter out, or inquired. "

The wind continued to favour us, drawing gradually to the westward. Wesighted a red light on Kinnaird's Head, which, as we got more to theeastward, changed to a bright colour. Beyond it was Fraserburgh. Byhauling our wind we were able to steer for Rathay Head. Near it wecaught sight of Inverugie Castle. We gave a wide berth to the head, from which a dangerous reef of rocks run out; for though the ocean wastolerably calm, we could see the water breaking over them. 

We were now hoping, as the wind was off shore, to stand due south forAberdeen, which we were all anxious to see. We had sighted SlainesCastle, standing out solitary and grand on the very edge of the crag, when the wind suddenly backed round to the southward, and in a shorttime began to blow very hard. Dark clouds, which had been gatheringthickly in the horizon to the south-east, came careering on over theblue sky. In spite of the heavy sea which was getting up, we held ourcourse, standing away from the land, intending to tack again when wecould to fetch Aberdeen. By the way the Dolphin was tumbling about Icould readily understand how we must have appeared to her. Dick beganto show signs of being far from happy, and Nat's cheerfulness entirelyleft him. Papa sent him down below, and told him to turn in. Dick, however, braved it out, but grew more and more yellow and woebegone. 

"This won't do, " observed papa; "it's fortunate that we have a portunder our lee. Up helm, ease away the main sheet. We'll let theDolphin know that we are running for Peterhead. "

The Dolphin followed our example; and away we went, careering on beforethe fast-rising seas. Very glad we were that we had so fine a harbourto run for. The gale blew harder and harder, and the waves looked as ifevery instant they would engulf us; for we were now exposed to the wholeroll of the German Ocean. On sailing in we were struck by theremarkable appearance of the flesh-coloured pinkish rocks, whoseneedle-shaped points rose up out of the water. We had, however, littletime to notice them, ere rushing by we brought-up in the harbour ofPeterhead. Most thankfully we dropped our anchor and furled our sails. 

Peterhead appeared to be a bustling place. A number of merchantvessels, coasters, and fishing-boats were at anchor. As the days werelong, we hoped the gale would blow itself out before the next morning. Directly we had dined we set off on foot to visit a curious caverncalled the "Bullers of Buchan. " After walking for about two hours wefound ourselves on the top of a cliff, from whence we looked down intoan immense cauldron some fifty feet in diameter, open at the bottom tothe sea, which was rushing in, and whirling round and round in foamingmasses. We went round it, between the cauldron and the sea, where theledge, with the foaming whirlpool on one side and the perpendicularcliffs on the other, was sufficiently narrow to make us feel thenecessity of keeping our eyes open. On the west side, or the furthestfrom the ocean, we observed that the water rushed under an arch. Aperson told us that in fine weather a boat could pass under this arch, though at present one would have been immediately dashed to pieces. Thewhole cliff was completely perforated by caverns. "Buller, " I shouldhave said, means the "boiler. " Having watched it until our ears werewellnigh deafened by the roar, and our eyes dizzy from gazing at theseething whirlpool, we hastened on to get a sight of Slaines Castle, which we had seen from the sea. As we viewed it from a distance, thewalls appeared to be a continuation of the cliff on the summit of whichit stands. It is a large quadrangular building, without a tree in theneighbourhood. It had a somewhat gloomy aspect under the dark sky whenwe saw it. The property belonged, till lately, to the Earl of Errol, whose nearest neighbour to the eastward was, as Dick said, "Hamlet'sGhost, " or the Castle of Elsinore, which stands on the shores of theSkagerack. 

We had spent a longer time in visiting the castle than we had intended, and had only got a short distance back when we were overtaken by thegloom of evening. The wind was blowing dead on shore, and a tremendoussea running. We were casting our eyes over the German Ocean, when wesaw what we took to be a brig, with her mainmast gone, and several ofher sails blown away, evidently steering for Peterhead. Unable to keepclose to the wind, she was drifting every instant nearer and nearer theshore. 

"I fear she'll not weather that point, " observed papa; "and if she comeson shore, there'll be little chance for any of her people, as nolifeboat could get near her. "

We had passed a Coastguard station a little way to the northward. UncleTom volunteered to hurry on, and I accompanied him--in case the peoplethere should not have observed the brig--to give them notice of thedanger she was in; that, should she strike, they might be ready torender assistance with their rocket apparatus. 

It was now quite dark, and we had great difficulty in making our way;there was a risk of finding ourselves at the edge of some chasm, downwhich we might fall. The distance seemed very long, and I thought wemust have missed the Coastguard station, which was situated at the edgeof the cliffs. At length, however, we saw a light gleaming from awindow, and arrived at the wall which enclosed the house where thelieutenant and his men lived. We found them on the alert. Two had justgone off for some horses to drag the waggon in which the rocketapparatus was to be carried, as one of the men stationed to thesouthward had seen the brig and reported her danger. 

In the waggon were already placed the rocket tube, with three rocketlines, several rockets, three spars to form a triangle, an anchor, lantern, spades, and pickaxes, some signal rockets, a rope ladder, and asling life-buoy, with what are called "petticoat breeches" fastened toit, in which a person can be placed. 

There were also a strong hawser and a whip or fine rope, by which thesling life-buoy was to be drawn backwards and forwards from the wreck tothe shore. By the time these were got into the waggon a couple ofhorses had arrived, and a party of men immediately set off with thewaggon. 

The lieutenant conducted us back by the way we had come; as he knewevery inch of the ground, we had no fear now of falling over the cliff. We had not gone far before we saw a rocket thrown up about a mile to thesouthward. 

"It is as I feared, " said the lieutenant; "the brig has gone ashore, andthat rocket, fired by one of my men, shows the spot where she hasstruck. There is no time to lose, for in all probability she will nothold together long. "

The signal made us hasten on even faster than before. 

"There she is! there she is!" cried the lieutenant, just as we reachedthe summit of a cliff. 

We could see the brig about a hundred fathoms off on the rocks, the seamaking a fearful breach over her. There was light sufficient to enableus to see that the foremast was still standing. 

We found that papa and the rest of our party had arrived at the spot, and were watching her, but of course utterly unable to afford anyassistance. It would have been a sad thing to watch her, had we notknown that we should soon have the means of saving the poor people. Scarcely a minute had passed when a shout gave us notice that the waggonhad arrived. We all instantly hurried to her to assist. While the menhandled the heavier articles, we carried the lighter ones. Each manknew exactly what he was to do. The lines, I should have said, were inboxes, two of which were carried to the cliff; the tube was then fixed, and the line fastened to it. It was an anxious moment. Would the linepass over the vessel? would the crew be able to secure it? I could nothelp fearing that the rocket might strike the vessel, and perhaps killsome one on board; but the lieutenant took very good care to avoid that, by giving the tube sufficient elevation. 

"Now, lads, stand by!" he sang out. 

The men tilted the box in which the line was secured, so that it mightrun out freely. The officer now fired; and the rocket, rising in theair, made a grand curve of light, which we watched with intense interestuntil we saw it fall completely over the vessel. We had now toascertain whether the men on board had secured it. No signal came, andof course we could not venture to haul in on the line, lest we mightdraw it back. 

"They probably have no blue light or gun on board, or any other means ofmaking a signal, " observed the lieutenant. 

Scarcely, however, had he spoken, before a faint light from a lanternwas shown in the rigging. 

"All right, " he exclaimed: "they have secured the line; make it fast tothe warp. "

Upon this, one of the Coastguards, going a short distance from the restof us, exhibited a lantern with a red light, and presently we found thatthe whip--or double line--with a tailed block was being hauled off bythe men on the wreck. 

We had now to wait again until once more the lantern was shown on board. This was a signal to the Coastguard to secure the end of the hawser toone part of the double line or whip, when all hands taking hold of thelatter, we hauled off the hawser to the wreck. The tailed block hadprobably been secured to the mast; and as long as that held we had everyhope of establishing a communication. 

If we felt anxious, how much more so must the poor fellows on the brig, which might at any moment be knocked to pieces, and they be sentstruggling hopelessly in the foaming seas! We knew from the length ofthe whip that we must haul out the hawser almost to its end. Soon afterwe had done so another signal was made, which implied that the men hadsecured it round the mast. We then immediately hauled away on thehawser until we had got it stretched and secured to the anchor, whichhad been imbedded in the earth some way back from the cliff. It wasnecessary, however, not to get it too taut, as the vessel was moved bythe seas, and might either break it, or tear the anchor out of theground. This done, the "buoy with the breeches" was secured to a block, adjusted to the hawser, and was immediately hauled off. 

I should have said that a triangle, formed of three small spars, overwhich the hawser passed, was fixed in the ground nearest to the edge ofthe cliff; and now, to our infinite satisfaction, we had a perfectcommunication with the wreck. Still we had to watch for another signal, to give us notice that a person had been placed in it. Again the lightappeared. We hauled away on the warp. 

"Handsomely, handsomely!" sung out the lieutenant, as the men werehauling in rather fast on the line. 

We eagerly watched; when at last through the gloom we saw the life-buoyappear, and discovered that a person was in it. With anxious haste thelieutenant and two of his men stepped forward, and grasping the buoy andits burden, gently lifted out the occupant. 

"My arm is broken, sir; take care, please. "

We found that it was the mate of the vessel who spoke; he was the firstsent on shore. We carried him up to the waggon, where he could besheltered from the wind by the awning which covered it. While Uncle Tomremained with him, we hastened back to the cliff. 

By this time another person had arrived--a young boy--who was alsosomewhat hurt. He was almost fainting from pain and terror; his statewas such that he could only utter the words, "Make haste! make haste!"

There was good reason for this, for we could judge by the way the hawserwas moved that the vessel was rolling more and more; and the men werecompelled to slacken it out every now and then. It may be supposed notime was lost. Three men were now successfully brought on shore. 

We were going to carry the boy to the waggon, but he intreated toremain. The first of the men who arrived told us the reason. He wasthe captain's son. The captain himself would not leave the vessel untilthe last. Two of their number had been washed overboard, the captainalone now remained. We could hear the boy crying out every now andthen, "Make haste! make haste!"

Once more the life-buoy was hauled off; every possible speed was made. I don't think I ever before felt so intensely anxious; for I couldsympathise with the poor boy whose father was still in fearful danger. Each moment it seemed as if the hawser would be carried away. Again thelight was shown, and seemed to be advancing towards us. The Coastguardhauled away with all their might, helped by two of the rescued crew, while the lieutenant and the rest stood by ready to take hold of thecaptain. The light drew nearer and nearer. "Make haste! make haste!"again cried the boy. When at length he saw his father safe, in spite ofhis hurts, rising up from the ground, he rushed forward and threw hisarms round his neck. 

Scarcely had the captain's feet touched the ground than the hawserslackened, a loud rending sound was borne to our ears by the wind, andwe knew that some huge billow had dashed the brig to pieces. Indeed, Ifancied I saw fragments tossing about in the seething waves which dashedup against the cliffs. 

All felt that they had done their duty, and that the lives of theirfellow-creatures had been saved by their promptitude, and the skill withwhich the operations had been carried out. The Coastguard men, havinghauled in the hawser until the mast was brought close under the cliff, the rocket apparatus was returned to the waggon, in which also the mateand the captain's son were placed, and we then all set off to theCoastguard station. 

The lieutenant invited us to remain at his cottage until the morning. We gladly accepted his offer; and his wife, who was a very nice person, treated us in the kindest manner, and produced a variety of garments, which we put on while our wet clothes were drying. Uncle Tom had alady's cloak over his shoulders. Dick was dressed in an old uniformcoat, and papa got into a pea-jacket. 

The shipwrecked crew were looked after by the Coastguard men, and thelieutenant and his wife attended to the mate and the boy; while themaster of the vessel had a room to himself, being completely knocked up, and as soon as he had had some supper went to bed, and happily was soonfast asleep. 

Papa and the lieutenant found that they had many mutual acquaintances, and they sat spinning yarns before the fire--for, although summer, afire was very pleasant--until late in the night. The lieutenantdescribed to us the gallant way in which the lifeboats of twoneighbouring stations had gone out on several occasions to rescue thecrews of vessels either on the rocks or sandbanks at the mouth of theMoray Firth. 

One hears but little of the wreck of coasters; but were it not for theassistance of lifeboats, in most instances the crews, consisting ofthree to six men, would be lost; as the vessels, being often old androtten, quickly break up, and being low, the seas wash completely overthem. Not long ago a boat was discovered by one of the Coastguard menon the beach; and on hurrying towards her, he found a poor fellow lyingon the sand almost exhausted. On carrying him to a neighbouringfisherman's cottage, he recovered; and he then stated that he belongedto a large barque which had gone on the sands; that he and twelve othermen had taken to their boat, but that she had capsized, and that allhands, with the exception of himself, had been drowned; that he had swumon shore, though he could scarcely tell how he had managed to reach it. He said that there were four men still on board. On this the Coastguardmen hastened to the nearest lifeboat station, when the boat wasimmediately manned and pushed off for the wreck, the position of whichthe seaman had described, though as it was night she could not be seen. Away the gallant crew pulled through tremendous seas, which were rollingin on the coast. Having gained an offing, they made sail, and steeredfor the wreck, which at length was discovered with two of her mastsgone, while the crew were clinging to the rigging of the remaining mast, which threatened every instant to follow the others. The lifeboat, showing a light, indicated to the poor fellows on the wreck that helpwas near. After considerable difficulty they got up under her lee, andwere able to heave a rope on board. Getting a stronger warp, theyhauled up near enough to enable two of the men to jump on board. Thethird slipped, and fell into the water, running a fearful risk of beingcrushed; but, happily, he also was got into the boat. As is often thecase, the cabin-boy was the last left. It was a trying thing to see thepoor little fellow clinging to the rigging, but unable to help himself. 

"We can't let him perish!" cried one of the lifeboat men; and at therisk of his own life, the boat being hauled up to the wreck, he spranginto the rigging, and with his knife cut the lashings by which the poorboy was held. A crashing sound was heard, the weather shrouds and stayswere giving way. In another instant the mast would fall, and not onlythe gallant fellow and his charge, but all in the lifeboat, wouldperish. 

"Leap, man! leap!" shouted the crew, ready to shove off, and watchingthe tottering mast with anxious gaze; but even though they all knew thefearful risk they incurred by remaining, they would not desert theircompanion or the lad he had gone to save. The gallant boatman, seizingthe boy in his arms, slid down the rigging and sprang from the chainsinto the boat, where he was caught by the outstretched arms of hiscompanions. The next moment the boat was many fathoms from the wreck, when down came the mast on the very spot where she had been floating, the cap of her topmast almost striking her bow. Still the crew had aheavy struggle to reach the shore, for the gale came down with greaterforce than ever, and the hungry seas seemed ready to engulf her; but theshipwrecked men were landed in safety. Not until they met theircompanion did they learn that he and they were the sole survivors of thecrew. 

The lieutenant told the tale so graphically that I have tried to put itdown in his own words. He related many other similar anecdotes; and itwas not until the night was far spent that we dropped off to sleep inour chairs. 

At daybreak, as the rain had ceased, and the wind had somewhat gonedown, we started for Peterhead, papa promising to send a conveyance forthe mate and the boy, that they might be carried to the hospital. 

Peterhead is a substantial-looking seaport town, the houses being mostlybuilt of granite from quarries near. It stands on the south side of themouth of the river Ugie, and has two harbours, one on the north and theother on the south side of the peninsula. The latter, which is theoldest, was formed in the year 1773, from plans by Mr Smeaton, thegreat engineer of those days; and the north harbour in 1818, from thoseby Mr Telford. Piers run out from the shore, which is lined by finequays. 

We had to wait the whole day before proceeding on our voyage, so we hadtime to see a great deal of the town, and something of theneighbourhood. We paid a visit to the hospital, and were glad to findthat the poor mate and the captain's son were going on very well. 

Next morning broke bright and beautiful, with a fine northerly breeze, which raised our spirits; and sailing out of the harbour, we stoodtowards Buchan Ness, on the summit of which stands a stone tower, with alight flashing from it at night, to show the approach to Peterhead. Wesighted Slaines Castle, from which we steered a direct course forAberdeen. About ten o'clock, the distance run being about thirty miles, we sighted the Girdlestone Lighthouse, on the southern side of the riverDon, on which Aberdeen stands. Crossing the bar, we found ourselves ina wide bay. Several vessels and a number of boats were standing towardsthe spacious quays, backed by the fine granite-built houses of NewAberdeen. 

On landing, we noticed the massive appearance imparted to the houses bythe granite of which they are composed. 

Our first visit was to Marischal College, the great seat of learning inthe north, where Captain Dalgetty, that redoubted soldier of fortune, according to Scott, obtained his education. We went through the museum, library, and observatory, saw a good collection of paintings, and wereespecially struck by the handsome way in which the whole building isfurnished. 

Hurrying on, however, to the old town, on the south bank of the Don, wevisited the parish church of Old Machar, a grand and venerable building. The pillars in the transept have their capitals beautifully carved inoak. We then went to King's College, a large quadrangular edifice, including the chapel, built of granite. The examination hall contains acollection of the portraits of the old Scottish kings and the earlyprincipals of the college, --a Bishop Elphinstone, the founder, beingamong them. We were amused by seeing the students, of whom there werebetween two and three hundred, walking about dressed in red gowns. Theybelong to all ranks of society, many labouring during the summer toobtain the means of educating themselves in the winter. We heard apleasant anecdote of the late Duke of Gordon, who used to send out acarriage when he knew that the young men were on their way to college, in order to give them a lift for a stage or two. Many, we were told, had worked at the Caledonian Canal before thus arriving in the ducalcarriage. 

We saw many evidences of the prosperity of Aberdeen; and while we lay inthe harbour two or three steamers came in and out; one on its way to theislands of Orkney and Shetland, and others to Leith and the Thames. Ourfew hours at Aberdeen were among the most interesting we spent on shoreduring our voyage. 

Sailing again in the afternoon, with a fine northerly breeze, we passedthe neat town of Stonehaven, about fifteen miles to the south, and soonafterwards the grand ruins of Dunnottar Castle, a large square towerrising from amid the ruins of other buildings on the very edge of thecliff. We could judge of its size by the extent of the remaining walls. It was here that the crown and sceptre of King Charles were kept duringthe Civil Wars. The castle was besieged, and the garrison was about tocapitulate, when Mrs Ogilvie, the governor's wife, put them in chargeof Mrs Grainger, the wife of the minister of Kinneff, who had paid hera visit by permission of the Republican General Lambert. Mrs Ogilviemanaged, with wonderful boldness, to smuggle out the crown, fastenedunder her cloak, while her servant hid the sceptre and sword in a bag offlax which she carried on her back. It was here, also, that many of theCovenanters were imprisoned, and, according to an ancient chronicler, Wallace put to death four thousand Englishmen, who had fled for safetyinto the church. The approaching night hid the gloomy walls from ourview. 

As we passed the towns of Montrose and Arbroath during the night, we sawnothing of them. The wind fell light when off the latter place, andthen blew from the south-west, bringing up a thick fog, which shroudedthe whole surface of the water. Papa being told of it, he went on deck, and Dick and I followed him; when he at once hauled the yacht on thewind, and stood off the coast. After running on for about an hour, thepeculiar mournful sound of a bell reached us. As we stood on, itsounded every half-minute, louder and louder. 

"Where does that come from?" inquired Dick. 

"From the Bell Rock, " answered Truck. "If it wasn't for the fog weshould see a light from the tall tower which now stands on the rock, bright and red alternately. Once upon a time there was no tower there;but there was a bell fixed on a buoy, and as the waves beat against it, it tolled without ceasing; but I have heard say that there was a pirate, who used to cruise in those seas, who cut the bell off; but not longafter, when making for Dundee, during a dark night and a heavy gale, heran his ship on it, and was lost with all his men--a judgment on him forhis evil deeds. "

The wind dropping altogether, we lay becalmed, within the sound of thebell, until morning broke and the fog lifted, when we saw the tower justahead of us. The centre part of the building was coloured white, andcould scarcely be seen against the sky; but the lower part, which wasdark, and the lantern, which was in shadow, were perfectly visible. Wepulled towards it; and as we approached we saw the rocks on which thelighthouse stands rising ten feet or more above the water. Iron ladderswere fixed for landing, and by a gun-metal ladder we were able to reachthe entrance port. The head keeper came down and received us cordially. As in other lighthouses, the first story is used for storing coal; thesecond for water; the next for oil; and the next for bedrooms, withberths for six persons. Above it is the kitchen, and above that thesitting-room, in which we saw a bust of Stevenson, the engineer. Thelight is revolving, and has five reflectors, on each of which are twofaces, one red and one white. The red colour is produced by chimneys ofred glass. The keeper told us that four men belonged to the lighthouse, that they are all married, but that three only were on duty. As at theother lighthouses, birds are occasionally killed by flying against theglasses. 

Soon after we left the Bell Rock, the wind freshening from thesouthward, we stood on for Dundee, from which it is about five andtwenty miles distant. We passed through the narrow entrance of theFirth of Tay, with Broughty Castle on our right, beyond which we cameoff Dundee, standing on the northern shore, and rising on a gentledeclivity from the water's edge, towards a high hill called the Law. The estuary here is nearly two miles wide. A number of vessels were atanchor, while the docks seen beyond the quays were full of shipping. Dundee has a handsome appearance, with its broad streets and fine stonehouses. About the centre of the town, we passed what looked like oneenormous church, with a lofty tower at the western end; but we foundthat it consisted of four parish churches, which are built side by side, so as to form one edifice. 

"I wish that all Christian communities could thus live in unity, "observed papa. 

These churches were, as may be supposed, all Presbyterian. There areseveral others in the town. We were told that there were nearly ninetyschools in Dundee, at which upwards of four thousand children areeducated. One of the most interesting places which claimed ourattention was the Watt Institution, established in honour of James Watt, for the instruction of young men in science. There are also nearlyforty mills for spinning flax, weaving linen, sail-cloth, sacking, andcordage. On the quay stands a handsome arch, built after a Flemishmodel. Besides the patent slip and graving dock, there are three wetdocks and two tidal harbours, while other improvements are being carriedon; so that Dundee is a most flourishing place. 

Not far off is Camperdown, once the residence of Lord Duncan, who calledit after the famous victory he won over the Dutch; and a little distancefurther is Rossie Priory, belonging to the Kinnaird family. 

As we were anxious to look into Saint Andrews, we sailed again nextmorning, in the hope that the wind would continue in the north, or atall events that we should be able to beat down thus far. It is situatedon the south shore of Saint Andrew's Bay, some little way outside theentrance to the Firth of Tay. The wind favoured us more than weexpected; and a pilot-boat showing us the way, we stood into theharbour, passing close under the peninsula on which the town stands. Above us were the ruins of the cathedral and the chapel of Saint Rule, who was supposed to have founded the place, with several otherbuildings. Saint Andrews presented a very quiet aspect, forming a greatcontrast to the bustling town of Dundee; but I must say it is a far morepicturesque place. Of course we visited the university, the mostancient in Scotland. It consists of the colleges of Saint Salvator, Saint Leonard, and Saint Mary. There is also a school called the MadrasCollege, founded by Dr Bell, the originator of the Madras system ofeducation. By means of these colleges, at which an almost freeeducation can be obtained, young Scotchmen without means are able toenjoy advantages which they could not do in England. The town iscertainly more alive than it was when Dr Johnson visited it in the lastcentury; he declared that one of the streets was lost, and that in thosethat remained there was "the silence and solitude of inactive indigenceand gloomy depopulation. " We thought it a very picturesque-lookingplace, and should have remained there longer had the wind not changedand induced us to put to sea. 

Having passed round Fifeness, the eastern point of the peninsula, andopened the Isle of May lights--for there are two on the summit of theisland--we stood across the Firth of Forth, intending to visitEdinburgh. The wind being light the whole night, we made no way. 

When morning broke, we were in sight of Fenton Law, which rose beyondNorth Berwick, and the Bass Rock, at no great distance off, standinghigh up above the blue sea. We passed close to it, and got a view ofthe almost inaccessible castle perched on its cliffs. It is now inruins, but at one time was used as a state prison, in which several ofthe most distinguished Covenanters were confined. Wild flocks ofsea-fowl rose above our heads from off the rock, and among others werenumbers of gannets or Solan geese. 

As we had lost so much time, and had still the whole English coast torun down, papa and Uncle Tom, after a consultation, agreed to give uptheir visit to Edinburgh, and to continue their cruise across to thesouthward. 

CHAPTER ELEVEN. 

THE NORTH-EAST COAST. 

We got a view of North Berwick, which stands on the extreme northernpoint of Haddington; and about three miles to the eastward of it we cameoff the far-famed Tantallon Castle, in days of yore the stronghold ofthe Douglases. Of course, we got out _Marmion_, and read thedescription of this celebrated fortress, which by the extent of itsruins must have been of great size and strength. 

"I said, Tantallon's dizzy steep Hung o'er the margin of the deep. Manya rude tower and rampart there Repelled the insult of the air, Which, when the tempest vexed the sky, Half breeze, half spray, came whistlingby. A parapet's embattled row Did seaward round the castle go. Sometimes in dizzy steps descending, Sometimes in narrow circuitbending, Sometimes in platform broad extending, Its varying circle didcombine Bulwark, and bartizan, and line, And bastion, tower, andvantage-coign. Above the booming ocean leant The far-projectingbattlement; The billows burst, in ceaseless flow, Upon the precipicebelow. "

We passed the mouth of the river Tyne, south of which stands Dunbar. The next place of interest we came off was Fast Castle, of which twotall towers remain close to the cliffs, --in former days the strongholdof the Homes. It is supposed to be the original of Wolfs Crag in _TheBride of Lammermoor_. We looked through our glasses at the spot wherethe unhappy Master of Ravenswood sank with his steed into thetreacherous quicksand. 

About fifteen miles farther on, we passed the bluff promontory SaintAbb's Head, and soon afterwards arrived off Berwick, which, I needhardly say, stands at the mouth of the Tweed, the river dividing Englandfrom Scotland. So close does the railway run to the cliffs, that wecould hear the trains passing as clearly as if we were on shore, andcould see them shooting by at a speed which made us jealous. As thewind was fair, we did not put into the Tweed, but stood close enough toBerwick to have a cursory view of it. As all the world knows, Berwickis not within any county, for although really in Berwickshire, itbelongs to England. It is a county in itself. A portion is stillsurrounded by walls erected in the time of Elizabeth; and it is defendedby several bastions, with batteries commanding the entrance to theharbour. We could see the remains of an ancient castle, which is now aheap of ruins, but above it stands the Bell Tower, still almost perfect. A number of vessels passed in and out of the harbour while we were offit, showing that the place has a good deal of trade. As we lookedthrough our glasses, we saw a number of churches and public buildings. A long stone pier runs out on the north side of the Tweed, with alighthouse at its end. 

We now stood on towards Holy Island, a few miles south of Berwick, offthe Northumbrian coast; and as we had still several hours of daylight, we hove-to off the island. Here, in the early days of Christianity, wasa college of evangelists, who went forth to preach the simple gospelthrough the northern portions of the country, to its heathen kings, aswell as to the people over whom they held sway. Ultimately, monasterieswere built here, famous for the supposed piety of their inmates. 

We pulled on shore to visit the ruins of the celebrated Abbey ofLindisfarne. If the pilgrim visitors arrived at low water, they couldget across by following the sandbank which connects it with themainland; but they had to make haste, to escape being caught by theflood. 

Besides the monastery, there was a castle of great strength, which oftenresisted the invader's hostile attacks; and heathen Danes had again andagain been driven back to their ships by its stalwart garrison. Itsglories, however, are departed. We could find only a few low walls, over which we could leap, and the remains of a staircase of eight or tensteps in a tower but little higher than the wall. A board warning offtrespassers took away what little romance we had conjured up. 

Returning on board, we again stood to the southward, sighting BamboroughCastle, elevated on a green mound above the village. Off it lies theLongstone Rock and the Farne Islands. The coast looked bleak anddesolate, with here and there dark rocks running into the sea. The windwas very light as we came off the Longstone Lighthouse. 

While the yachts hove-to, the boats were lowered, and we pulled up toit, in order to pay a visit to the scene of Grace Darling's heroism. For upwards of fifty years the lighthouse was under the charge ofWilliam Darling, the father of Grace. We understood that the presenthead keeper was a member of the family. The tower stands on a rock, ispainted red, and the light revolves every half-minute. We were muchinterested with the memorials of Grace Darling which embellished thesitting-room. The light-keeper on duty pointed out the variouslocalities connected with the wreck of the Forfarshire. 

Before daylight, on the 6th of September 1838, a furious gale blowing, Grace Darling, who acted as William Darling's assistant and was onwatch, heard, as she thought, the cries of people coming from thedirection of some rocks a mile away. She awoke her father, and togetherthey stood listening to the appeals for help; but in the dark, with thefurious sea there was running, it was impossible to put off to theirassistance. When day broke, however, the old man launched his boat, andwas about to shove off, when, observing the state of the tide andweather, he hesitated to make the attempt. As the light increased, Grace, who had been anxiously watching the wreck, declared that she sawsome people still clinging to it. 

"We must save them!" she exclaimed; and seizing an oar, she stepped intothe boat. 

The old man, aroused by her example, followed her. Through the foamingseas, which threatened every moment to overwhelm the little coble, theypulled off to the wreck. The fore part of the vessel, to which ninepeople were clinging, alone remained; to reach them it was necessary toland on the lee side of the rock. This, after considerable difficulty, William Darling succeeded in doing, when immediately Grace rowed off inthe coble, to prevent it being dashed to pieces. One by one, five ofthe crew and four passengers were drawn by the lighthouse-keeper off thewreck, and placed on the rock, from whence they were transferred to theboat, and conveyed, a few at a time, to the lighthouse. 

Owing to the state of the weather, no communication could be held withthe mainland for two days, during which time the nine shipwreckedpersons were treated with the utmost kindness by Mr Darling and hisdaughter. The calm bravery of Grace, who was at that time onlytwenty-two years of age, excited the admiration of all who heard it. Testimonials and suitable presents, together with seven hundred poundssterling raised by subscription, showed how highly the publicappreciated her conduct. The Forfarshire steamer, of three hundredtons, had sailed the previous evening from Hull, bound for Dundee; buther boilers becoming defective, the engines could no longer work, and atthree o'clock the following morning she struck on the Longstone, theoutermost of the Farne Islands, between which the master wasendeavouring to run the vessel. The mate, with seven seamen, lowered aboat, and were escaping, when one of the passengers leaped on board, others in vain attempting to follow his example. The nine occupants ofthis boat were the following morning picked up by a coaster and carriedinto Shields, --they, with those rescued by the Darlings, being the onlypersons who escaped out of sixty souls. 

Four years after this heroic deed, Grace Darling lay upon her dying bed. The grief of the family was very great, for Grace was endeared to themall. "Do not mourn for me, " she said; "I am only exchanging this lifefor one far better. If I remained here, I should be subject to troubleand sickness; but in dying I go to be with Christ my Saviour. " Twobeautiful memorials of Grace have been erected: one in BamboroughChurchyard, and the other in Saint Cuthbert's Chapel, on the FarneIsland. Our picture represents that in Bamborough Churchyard. Hersleeping figure lies under a Gothic canopy, backed by the blue waves, and within sight of the scene of her heroism. 

 "She is lying and sleeping now Under the verdant turf. Ah, there were breakers she might not ride! And her hair grew damp in that strong, dark tide, But not with the briny surf. 

 "And out of her lonely grave She bids us this lesson prove, That the weakest may wipe some tears that flow, And the strongest power for good below Is the might of unselfish love. "

In 1860, the Iris, of Arbroath, struck on the rocks close to where theForfarshire was lost. The wind was so terrific, and the sea ran sohigh, that the crew were afraid to take to their boat. They accordinglyleaped into the water, and were washed on to the rock, though it waswith the greatest difficulty that they managed to reach it. Here theyremained twelve hours, the sea being so rough that no boat could come tothem. Towards evening, the wind having slightly fallen, WilliamDarling, who was then seventy-five years of age, and had been watchingthe wreck all day, put off with several hands from the lighthouse, andrescued the poor fellows from their perilous position. 

We had a scramble over a portion of the Farne Islands, on which thereare two lighthouses at a considerable distance from each other. Thereare three keepers belonging to the two, but only one remains on watch ata time; he has to attend to both lights, and has to walk from house tohouse. The keeper showed us a curious contrivance by which he can atonce rouse the sleeping keeper without leaving his own post. Itconsists of a hand-bellows attached to a tube which rings a bell at theear of the sleeper. He told us that occasionally blackbirds andthrushes are killed by striking against the lantern. We saw a number ofrabbits running in and out of their burrows. There is an old chapelwhich has been restored and another building, converted into adwelling-house for the clergyman, who at times comes across from Durham. 

Nat, who had landed with us, was very anxious to keep a young cormorantwhich he had picked up. He took it under his arm, intending to carryoff his prize; but the mother bird attacked him so furiously with itslong beak, that it nearly put out one of his eyes, and succeeded inseverely biting his lip. On this, Nat very naturally let go theyoungster, which scuttled off, determined not to be caught again, and, taking to the water, swam away at a great rate. The odour produced bythe birds was anything but pleasant. We saw a number of cormorantsdiving in search of prey, and they came up with eels in their mouths. One had caught a big eel, which it battered against the rock until ithad killed it; but others gobbled down small eels without the slightesthesitation. The young birds were the oddest-looking creaturesimaginable. Their covering was a hard black skin, with here and thereblack woolly down upon it. The old birds' heads and necks were black, speckled with white feathers, while the upper part of the body was brownmingled with black. They had also white patches on their thighs, andyellow pouches under the throat edged with white. They were fully threefeet long; so that, with their strong beaks, they were formidableantagonists. 

The gulls were even more numerous than the cormorants. Though they keptout of our way, they did not appear otherwise to fear us. They lookedvery large on the wing, as their white feathers glanced in the rays ofthe setting sun; but they are not more than half the size of thecormorant. They act the useful part of scavengers on the coast, andeagerly pick up all the offal thrown on the shore. 

We returned to the yachts, and once more made sail. We got a good viewthrough our glasses of the old towers of Dunstanborough Castle. As thewind fell light, we pulled in to have a look at it, papa being anxiousto do so, as he had visited it in his younger days. The weather-beatenruin stands on the summit of a black cliff, rising sheer out of theocean. Three towers, one square, and the others semicircular, remain, with the greater portion of the outer wall, enclosing several acres ofgreen turf, over which, instead of mail-clad warriors, peaceable sheepnow wander. The principal tower overlooks a deep gully or gap in therocks, up which the sea, during easterly gales, rushes with tremendousforce and terrific noise, lashed into masses of foam, which leap highover the crumbling walls. This gully is known by the significant nameof the Rumble Churn. This ocean-circled fortress was erected--so saythe chroniclers--in the fourteenth century, by Thomas, Earl ofLancaster. Many a tale of siege and border warfare its stones couldtell; for the Cheviot hills--the boundary between Scotland and England--can be seen from the summit of its battlements. Having bravely held outfor Queen Margaret of Anjou, it was completely dismantled in the reignof Edward the Fourth, and has ever since remained like a lion deprivedof its claws, crouching over the ocean, a sad memento of its formerpower. Had it remained until gunpowder was in general use, it wouldprobably have been entirely overthrown. 

Papa described to us Warkworth Castle, which stands further south, abovethe banks of the Coquet river, on a high wood-covered hill. The greaterportion of the ruins remain; indeed, the woodwork alone has disappeared, and the masonry is in so good a state of preservation, that the lateDuke of Northumberland proposed to restore it, and make it hisresidence, instead of Alnwick Castle. Near it a hermit dwelt in acavern: he became a hermit in consequence of having killed the brotherof his betrothed, whom he mistook for a rival, after his return from theCrusades. 

We sighted Coquet Island, with its square white lighthouse, from which alight burst forth as we approached. Near it were the castellateddwellings of the keepers, painted different colours. In itsneighbourhood are dangerous rocks, and over each a red ray is shown, towarn vessels which might otherwise run upon them. We were now almostconstantly in sight of some light, which enabled us to know our exactposition. Dick and I turned in while Coquet Island light still shonebrightly. 

We expected the next morning to be off Hartlepool, at the mouth of theTees; but when day broke we found ourselves in sight of a picturesquecastle standing on a point of land, with a broad river flowing below it, and a town at its foot. When we asked Truck what it was, he answered:

"That's Tynemouth, at the mouth of the Tyne; and the captain says heintends to run in there to have a look at the place. It's as well worthseeing as any place we have been to. Beyond it you see North Shields, and South Shields on the southern bank; and higher up is Newcastle, where coals come from, as you've heard tell of. "

We laughed at Truck's description. "If they don't come from Newcastle, I don't know where else they come from, " remarked Dick. 

"A good many other places, young gentleman. There's no small quantityshipped from Sunderland and Swansea; and also from some of the Scotchports. If we go up to Newcastle, we shall see the curious way they areput on board the colliers. "

"But why haven't we got further?" I asked, "Because we have had lightwinds, and the tides have been against us most of the night, " answeredTruck. 

As not only the tide, but the wind also was against us, papa, on comingon deck, agreed to run up the Tyne. Hauling our wind, we stood in forNorth Shields, passing close under the lighthouse, which stands amid theruins of the castle. 

North Shields was evidently an active commercial place. Shipbuildingwas going on in the yards, and vessels were loading with coals, bound toall parts of the world, each with a number of keels, or oval boats, alongside, which had brought down the coal from the upper part of theriver. On board the vessels cranes were at work lifting up tubs of coalfrom out of the keels, and depositing them in their holds. Of thesekeels I shall have more to say by-and-by. Steamers emitting blackwreaths of smoke were coming and going, --some towing vessels out to sea, others taking them up the harbour; while several were conveyingpassengers. After breakfast we went on board one of the passengervessels, for papa and Uncle Tom did not wish to carry the yachts higherup. 

We had clear evidence that we were in a region of coal. The greaternumber of vessels we met were colliers, their crews begrimed with coaldust. "Everybody, " as Dick remarked, "had a coaly look. " People wereheard conversing in a broad Northumbrian accent, with a burr in most oftheir words. They were broad-shouldered men, capable of doing anyamount of hard work. We came in sight of a fine stone bridge with nineelliptical arches, which connects Newcastle with Gateshead, on theopposite bank. Above it is another magnificent bridge; it is double, the lower roadway, ninety feet above the river, being used for carriagesand foot passengers, while the upper carries the railway. It has twopiers at the margin of the river, and four others in the stream itself, besides smaller piers. It was curious to walk under it, and to hear thetrains rumbling by overhead. 

Newcastle stands on the north bank of the river. At first we thought ita very smoky town, but on emerging from the narrow old streets wereached some fine broad thoroughfares with large houses and magnificentpublic buildings. At the quays were a vast number of vessels, some ofconsiderable size. Formerly coals used to be put on board vessels fromthe oval boats I have before mentioned, called keels, of which aconsiderable number are still employed. Each keel carries about twentytons of coal, the larger masses being piled up in the vessel, butsmaller coal is carried in tubs, each keel having about eight tubs. Thekeels are antique-looking craft, such as were probably used in theearliest days of our history. They are propelled by large oars. Thekeel man, commencing at the bow, presses the oar before him, until hereaches the after part of the boat; he then hurries back to the bow, andagain puts down his oar. The keel men are a fine hardy race. Formerlythey were spoken of as "bullies;" but this, among the colliers, means"brothers, " or is derived from "boolie, " that is, "beloved. " Thoughtheir manners are rough, their character is good, and they areremarkably friendly to each other. Being all "keel bullies" or "keelbrothers, " they support an extensive establishment in Newcastle calledthe "Keelmen's Hospital. " We met a whole fleet of these keels as wecame up, working their way down with their "puys" or oars. Aconsiderable quantity of coal is scattered over the sides when hoistingit on board, and this is brought back by the flood tide into shallowwater, where a number of people are seen in their little cobles dredgingfor it. 

The larger number of vessels are, however, loaded from the "straiths. "These are platforms placed over the river and connected with tramways, joined to the various pits. The waggons, each containing two and a halftons of coal, come down for many miles until they reach the "straith, "when they are brought to a stand. In the "straith" is a hatchway, whichopens by machinery, through which the waggon descends with a man in it, who, when it arrives over the hold, unfastens a catch which secures thebottom of the waggon; this being made to turn upon hinges, like a trapdoor when opened, the whole of the coal is poured into the hold. Attached to the suspending machinery are two counterpoising weights, which being less heavy than the waggon laden with coal, do not impedeits descent. The moment it is discharged of its coal it is drawn upagain by these weights. 

As we descended the river we were much amused by seeing these coalwaggons running swiftly on the "straith, " stop a moment, then go downwith the descending men; and having got rid of their coal with a loudrushing noise, rise up again, as if perfectly aware of what they were, about. 

We returned in the afternoon to the yachts, and stood out to sea, hopingto obtain a slant of wind which might carry us further down the coast. 

Having seen the largest coal-shipping place, we had no particular wishto visit Sunderland, the chief port of Durham. Beyond it is Seaham, which has of late years sprung into existence. The mines in theneighbourhood belonged to the late Marquis of Londonderry, who wiselyformed a fine harbour here by constructing two piers running out fromthe land; and his heir has been richly rewarded by his enterprise. 

Further south is the seaport of Hartlepool, jutting out into the sea, ashort distance from the river Tees. It was once a place of greatstrength, and contained one of the most ancient monasteries in thekingdom. A portion of the walls which defended the old haven stillremains; and the new harbour has been formed by a pier run out from thesouth side of the town. It will not, however, hold vessels of largetonnage. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in fishing. 

The next day we were in sight of the Yorkshire coast. Passing Whitbyand Scarborough, after rounding Flamborough Head, opening up BridlingtonBay, we stood for Spurn Head, on the top of which are two lighthouses. 

As we had still sufficient daylight, we ran up the Humber to visit Hull, which stands on its northern bank. A large number of coasters were atanchor before its extensive quays; it has also docks of great size. Numbers of steam-vessels were gliding in and out of the harbour. It isproperly called Kingston-upon-Hull. It took its name when it waspurchased by Edward the First, who, seeing the great natural advantagesof its position, formed here a fortified town and port. There isnothing very attractive in the appearance of the place; but we wereinterested by a visit to a fine column on a square pedestal, erected tothe memory of the great Wilberforce, whose statue adorns the summit. The town contains two colleges, several hospitals, and numerous otherpublic institutions. We went on board the guardship stationed here, with some of the officers, with whom papa was acquainted, and wereinterested in hearing an account of the Coastguard system. Ships arestationed at different ports round the coast, and are called"Coastguard" or district ships, for Coastguard and Royal Naval CoastVolunteer duties. The English coast is divided into six districts;namely, the Hull district, which extends from Berwick to Cromer; theHarwich, from North Yarmouth to Ramsgate; the Newhaven district, fromFolkestone, including Southampton Water, the Isle of Wight, andLymington; the Falmouth and Weymouth district, including Bournemouth, Land's End, and taking in Penzance and the Scilly Isles. The rest ofthe coast is divided between Milford and Liverpool. Scotland has two"Coastguard" districts, the east and the west coasts. Ireland has alsotwo districts. The services on which the ships are employed arenumerous. First, for the protection of the revenue; to keep up areserve of seamen, and as a depot for stores and clothing. The captainof the ship takes the duties of the old inspecting commanders, and theofficers--of whom there are a large number appointed to each ship forthat especial purpose--have command of the different stations. Eachship has four or five tenders attached to her, employed in protectingeither the revenue or the fisheries. The ships generally go to sea fora month or so in the course of the year, and are kept ready to proceedto any part of the world. They do not keep up their usual complement ofmen, but when required the crew are drawn from the Coastguard. Besidesthese ships, there are six in England and two in Scotland, called "drillships. " They, however, never go to sea. They are employed in receivingon board the Royal Naval Reserve Force, --seamen as well as officers, --who go through a periodical drill. The Royal Naval Coast Volunteersalso drill on board these ships. These volunteers are seafaring men, and they rank with ordinary seamen, and not, like the men of the NavalReserve, with able-bodied seamen. 

Both the men of the Reserve and Coast Volunteers are expected to drilltwenty-eight days in the year, either on board a district ship, a drillship, or at the shore battery. By these means an efficient body of menis kept up, ready for immediate service in case of war. The men quarrelat times among themselves, the result frequently being a black eye; butthey will never tell upon each other; and sometimes a very curious causeis assigned as the reason of having a black eye. A man once said "thathe had slipped and kicked himself, " though how he managed to kick hisown eye it is difficult to say! Another reason often given is, "thatthey have run up against a pump-handle, " The man-of-war hats are veryunpopular, for they are particularly heavy. Good straw hats havinglately been scarce, an armourer was found constructing one of tin; butthat must have been not only heavier, but much hotter. The men usuallymake their own hats, and as usually manage to lose them. As soon as thehat is found, the man is placed before it, and compelled to looksteadily at it for a certain time. 

We got under weigh again in the afternoon of the next day, and stooddown the Humber, until we came in sight once more of the Spurn lights. During the next night, while we were steering for the Dudgeon floatinglight-vessel, one of the men on the look-out shouted--

"A light on the starboard bow! Starboard the helm! Hard a starboard!"and I saw a screw steamer rapidly approaching us. Had the night beenthick, and the look-out not been on the alert, we should certainly havebeen run down. 

It was two hours before we sighted Dudgeon light, and from thence westeered for Cromer, which we knew by its having a bright light revolvingevery minute. Outside of it was the Hasborough floating light, andbeyond that another light-vessel. We came off Cromer in the forenoon, when the vessels were hove-to; and we pulled in for the shore to visitsome friends of Uncle Tom. 

We landed among a number of fishing-boats, the place itself being alarge and flourishing village, though there were a number of niceresidences for people who visit it during the summer. In the middlerises a remarkably handsome church, its tower rising high above thesurrounding buildings. 

Along the coast are several round towers, which were built during thelast war to defend the shore from invasion, though at present they wouldbe of very little use. Papa was so pleased with the appearance of theplace, that he said he should come there some summer with the rest ofthe family. 

Leaving Cromer, we stood on for Great Yarmouth, inside a long line ofsandbanks, which are known by the light-vessels stationed at theirdifferent ends. 

Great Yarmouth is situated on the seashore, at the southern end ofNorfolk. The river Yare follows a serpentine course, and falls into thesea at the village of Gorleston, a short distance from Yarmouth to thesouthward. 

We waited until a pilot came on board to take us in, as the entrance isvery narrow, between two long wooden piers, one projecting aconsiderable way into the sea. Further along the shore to the southrises a high sandy cliff, on the top of which we saw a good-sized vesselbuilding. We asked the pilot how she could ever be launched, and hetold us that she would be eased down the cliffs by ropes at high tide, when the water, rushing close up to the base, would float her. 

We brought-up at some little distance from the entrance, opposite a lineof neat-looking cottages, forming the village of Gorleston, andinhabited chiefly by pilots. As it was getting late, we settled not togo on shore until the following morning. 

CHAPTER TWELVE. 

YARMOUTH. 

After an early breakfast, we landed on the north side of the river, andmade our way over a level sandy plain towards a tall column which rosein the midst of it. The plain is called the Denes, and extends from themouth of the river to the town. It is scantily covered with grass andsea plants, round which the sand collects in little hillocks. 

We had to steer our way among a vast number of tanned nets spread out todry. Here and there fishermen and their wives and daughters wereemployed in mending those which had received damage. There must havebeen acres upon acres of these nets. We soon reached the column, whichwe found was erected by the inhabitants of the county to the memory ofLord Nelson, who was a Norfolk man. At the top of each side of thepedestal were the names of the hero's chief victories. At the summit isa ball, on which stands the figure of Britannia holding a trident and alaurel wreath. The keeper invited us to enter; and we ascended by aflight of two hundred and seventeen steps to a gallery at the top of thecolumn, the total height being one hundred and forty-four feet. Fromthe platform we got a good bird's-eye view of the town below us, and thecountry as far as Norwich, and a wide extent of ocean. 

"Have you been here long?" I asked the keeper. 

"Not so long as the man who had charge before me, " he answered; "he camehere when the column was first put up, and here he stayed for wellnighforty years. "

"What was his name?" I enquired, finding that the old _custos_ was moreinclined to speak of his predecessor than himself. 

"James Sharman. He was with Lord Nelson at Trafalgar. It was he whohelped to carry the admiral from the upper deck to the cockpit. He camehome in the Victory, and afterwards joined several other ships, until hebore up for Greenwich Hospital; but not liking to be shut up there, SirThomas Hardy--who, you mind, was Lord Nelson's flag-captain--got himappointed to look after this column; and a good berth it is. He enteredthe navy as far back as 1799, and was afloat wellnigh twenty years. Hecame here, as near as I can remember, in 1819. He was as brave a seamanas ever stepped. I mind hearing of a gallant act of his, after he hadbeen here about ten years. It was at the end of November; and the daywas fast closing in, when the Hammond, a brig bound from Newcastle toLondon, drove on shore during a heavy gale, just a little way to thesouth of where we are standing. As she was heavily laden, and the wateris shallow thereabout, she grounded more than a hundred fathoms from thebeach. In a short time the wreck parted, and both her masts fell, carrying away, as was supposed, the whole of the crew. A short timeafter dark, however, one of the preventive men, named Smith, broughtword to Sharman that he heard groans upon the wreck. 

"`The groans must come from some poor fellow, and we will do our best tosave him, ' cried Sharman; `come along, Smith. '

"Taking a long rope, they hurried back to the beach. 

"`Now you hold on to the rope, and I'll make the other end fast round mywaist; and I'll see what I can do, ' cried Sharman. 

"Without a moment's delay he plunged unto the surf, which three timescarried him off his legs and sent him back on shore. Again he tried, and this time the sea drove him right against the wreck. The night wasso dark that he had a hard matter to find out where the poor fellow was. At length he found a man clinging to the breastwork. The poor fellowtold him that just before three men who had clung on until then had beenwashed away, and if he had come a few minutes sooner they might havebeen saved. As to swimming to shore, that he was certain was more thanhe could do. On this Sharman, taking the rope off himself, made it fastround the seaman's waist, and shouted to Smith to haul in, while hehimself trusted to his strong arms to hold onto the rope. They thusmercifully got safe to shore. "

A more appropriate spot than this could not have been fixed on for amonument to Nelson, who was born at Burnham Thorpe, of which his father, the Reverend Edmund Nelson, was rector. His mother was Catherine, daughter of Dr Suckling, Prebendary of Westminster, with one of whosesons, Captain Maurice Suckling, he first went to sea, on board theRaisonnable, of sixty-four guns. His education was obtained, first atthe High School at Sanwich, and afterwards at North Walsham. After themisunderstanding with Spain had been settled, he left the Raisonnable, and was sent in a West Indian ship, commanded by a Captain Rathbone, whohad been in the navy with his uncle. So great a dislike for the RoyalNavy was instilled into him by the merchant seamen, that it was manyweeks after he had joined the Triumph--to which on his return he hadbeen appointed--before he became at all reconciled to remaining in it. How different might have been his lot had he not got over his prejudicesthough, wherever he might have been, he would have contrived to make hisname known. 

On leaving Nelson's column, we proceeded along a road parallel with theriver, having on our right the new barracks and on our left the NavalHospital, which is placed in a fine airy situation, with the Denes infront and the sea beyond. It was here that Nelson, when the fleet cameinto Yarmouth, visited the poor wounded seamen, and going along thewards, spoke a kind word to each. It was by acts such as these that theadmiral won the affection of his men, who used to say of him, "Our Nelis as brave as a lion, and as gentle as a lamb. "

We presently found ourselves on the quays, running for a mile along thebank of the river, and which are considered equal to any in the kingdom. Opposite to us, on the south shore, a modern town has sprung up; and wehere saw a number of vessels building, the chief of them, judging fromtheir size, intended for the deep-sea fishery. 

We had heard that Yarmouth was likened to a gridiron, and we now saw thereason. Comparatively few broad streets run north and south; they are, however, joined by one hundred and fifty or more narrow passages, calledrows, which run east and west, like the bars of a gridiron. In many ofthem the houses project beyond their foundations, so that theinhabitants can almost shake hands with their opposite neighbours. Mostof the rows are paved with pebbles brought up from the beach. Uncle Tomobserved that the word "row" is probably derived from the French _rue_, a street. In many of them we observed curious pieces of oldarchitecture. They are now numbered, but used to be called after thenames of some of the principal inhabitants. One is called George andDragon Row; and in it we noticed a somewhat tumbledown cottage, built inwhat is denominated the "herring-bone pattern;" the bones or frame beingof wood placed in a zigzag fashion, filled up with masonry. Another rowis Kitty Witches Row. One end is scarcely three feet wide. It issupposed that this row was inhabited by women, who used to go about atcertain seasons of the year, dressed in fantastic fashions, to collectcontributions. Yarmouth carts are formed probably after the model ofthe most ancient vehicles in the kingdom. They are long, narrow, andlow, the wheels being placed under the seat, so as to occupy as littlespace as possible. The shafts are fastened to the axles, and two orthree perpendicular pieces of wood--the hindermost being the longest--support the seat, on which a person can recline at his ease. It willthus be seen that wherever the horses can go, the cart can follow. 

Passing a very fine Town Hall we reached the end of a remarkablyhandsome bridge, which unites Southtown to Yarmouth. We then turned toour right through some narrow roads; and having crossed a broad street, we found ourselves in an open space in front of the Church of SaintNicholas, one of the largest parish churches in the kingdom. Turningback and passing the fine Fisherman's Hospital, we entered themarket-place, which occupies nearly three acres of land. About thecentre of the market-place there are some smooth stones in the form of across, which mark the spot where the town cross once stood. It wasformerly adorned with the pillory and stocks, but they have longdisappeared. The freemen of the town have the right of selling herefree, with one stall. At the north end of the market is an avenue oflime-trees, which adds to its pleasant foreign appearance. In the yardof the Fisherman's Hospital we saw a figure of Charity; and the cupolaabove is adorned by a statue of the Apostle Peter, who, in former days, was looked upon as the patron of fishermen. 

We went to see the Toll House and Gaol, which are the oldest buildingsin the town. We entered a hall by an external staircase, leading to anEarly English doorway, which has the tooth ornament on the jambs. Opposite to it is an enclosed Early English window, with cinquefoilheads and shafts in the jambs. 

We were shown an ancient iron chest, called a hatch, in which theCorporation of Yarmouth kept their charters and valuable documents. Among the contents are the tallies or cleft sticks upon which theaccounts were formerly kept, the stick being notched according to theamount of money advanced, one part being given to the creditor, and theother to the debtor. The same plan is used in the present day by thehop-pickers in Kent, the overseer having one stick, while the pickerkeeps the other, and notches it each time a basket is emptied. Beneaththis Toll House is the ancient Gaol or House of Correction. Up to thepresent century this gaol was as defective as that of prisons generally. Under the ground is an apartment called the hold, with iron rings fixedto a heavy beam of wood crossing the floor. To this beam--in oldentimes--prisoners were wont to be chained. The sufferings of theseunfortunate persons stirred up the heart of a Christian woman, SarahMartin, residing in Yarmouth. Though compelled to support herself as adressmaker, she devoted much of her time, as did John Howard andElizabeth Fry, to visiting her suffering fellow-creatures. Fortwenty-four years she thus laboured, visiting day after day theprisoners and malefactors in the town gaol. There was no one on earthto reward her, no one to thank her; but she trusted in God, and gave Himthe praise that she was thus able to labour in His service. By herinstrumentality many who were looked upon as hardened wretches by theirfellow-men were brought to the foot of the cross as penitent sinners. When she lay dying, a friend asked, "What shall I read?" her answer wasone word, "Praise. " To the question, "Are there any clouds?" sheanswered, "None: He never hides His face; it is our sins which form thecloud between us and Him. He is all love, all light. " And when thehour of her departure was come, her exclamation was, "Thank God! thankGod!"

We read this account of the humble dressmaker near the spot where shelaboured, and from whence her spirit took its flight to be with Him whomshe had served on earth. 

Between the old walls and the sea a new town has sprung up, with fineterraces facing the water, and a battery at either end; running out fromit, over a narrow part of the Dene, into the ocean are three piers. Theone known as "the Jetty, " from its jutting out into the sea, is betweenthe others. It is composed of strong oaken piles driven into the soiland braced together with wooden beams, further secured by ironfastenings. During heavy weather, at high tide, the sea breakscompletely over the end, while at low-tide it is left almost completelydry. Of late it has been considerably extended. We walked to the end, to have a look at the town, with its towers and windmills rising fromamid the smaller houses. Near the beach we visited the Fishermen'sChapel, to which an Institute is attached, containing a library, reading-room, etcetera. 

Along the shore are several high wooden structures with platforms on thetop. They are built to enable the pilots or boatmen to take a survey ofthe roadstead and the sands beyond, that they may see any vesselrequiring their assistance. 

Near these structures were two or more handsome boats drawn up on thebeach, which are called yawls. They can be launched when no ordinaryboat can put to sea, and they are principally used for renderingassistance to vessels in distress. They are from fifty to seventy feetin length, and each carries from ten to twenty men. 

An old boatman told us of a very disastrous accident which occurred someyears ago to the Increase, to which a man named Samuel Brock belonged. A signal of distress was seen flying on board a Spanish brig in theoffing, when the Increase, with a crew of ten men and a London pilot, put off to her assistance. 

The yawl, having reached the brig, put three hands on board to navigateher into Yarmouth Harbour. She stood back for the shore. On passingthe Newarp Floating Light, a signal was made requesting them to take asick man on board, which they did, and then continued their cruise witha strong breeze, under three lugs. They were taking a snack of food, when, having imprudently trimmed the ballast to windward--a mostdangerous practice--a tremendous squall took the sails aback, and in amoment capsized her. Brock being a good swimmer, struck out to getclear of his companions, his ears assailed by their cries, mingled withthe hissing of water and the howling of the storm. After a moment or sohe swam back to help an old man to get hold of a spar; he then himselfgot on the boat, and stood upon its side; but finding that she wasgradually settling down, he again struck off. By this time he supposedthat all his companions were lost; and he began to think of the awfulposition in which he was placed, the nearest land being fully six milesdistant. He remembered that it was half-past six just before the boatwent over, and that as it was now low water, the tide would be settingoff the shore, making to the southward, and that, therefore, he mustswim fifteen miles before the ebb would assist him. Just then, a rushhorse-collar, which had served as a fender to the boat, floated by. Hegot hold of it, and putting his left arm through it, was supported untilhe had cut the waistband of his cloth trousers, which then fell off. Hein a similar way got rid of his frock, his waistcoat, and neckcloth; buthe dared not free himself from his oilskin trousers, fearing that hislegs might become entangled. He now put the collar over his head, butalthough it assisted him in floating, it retarded his swimming, and hehad to abandon it. He had gone some little distance, when he discoveredone of his messmates swimming ahead of him. The wind having gone down, no cries were heard, and the moon shone calmly on the water. Ere longhe beheld the last of his companions sink without struggle or cry. Should he give in also? Not for a moment would he yield to such athought; and he prepared himself for the desperate struggle. 

For some time Winterton Light, to the north of Yarmouth, served todirect his course; when the tide carried him out of sight of it, a starserved to guide him. At length this was obscured by the clouds, fromwhich flashes of lightning, with crackling peals of thunder, burstforth. Still he swam on, until again the moon shone forth. Having cutoff his heavy boots, he swam more easily. And now Lowestoft Light camein sight, and he saw the checkered buoy of Saint Nicholas Gat, oppositehis own door, but still four miles away from land. He had been fivehours in the water. Here was something to hold on by; but he reflectedthat his limbs might become numbed from exposure to the night air, andthat it would be more prudent to swim on. So abandoning the buoy, hesteered for the land. Not long afterwards he heard a whizzing soundoverhead. It was a huge gull which had made a dash at him, mistakinghim for a corpse; a number followed, but by shouting and splashing hedrove them off. He was now approaching Corton Sands, over which the seawas breaking, and he much doubted whether he could live through it; butin a short time he was driven over them into smooth water, and the windand swell coming from the eastward, he regained his strength. Somedistance to the southward, he saw a brig at anchor. He was in doubtwhether he should make towards her or continue his course to the shore. There was a great deal of surf breaking on the beach, and he might nothave strength to climb up out of its reach. Also, if he swam to thebrig, he might fail to make himself heard by the crew. However, onreflection, he determined to make for the brig. He got within twohundred yards, but nearer it was impossible to get. He now sang outwith all his might. Happily, his voice was heard by the watch, a boatwas lowered, and at half-past one, having swum seven and a half hours, he was on board the Betsey, at anchor in Corton Roads, nearly fifteenmiles from the spot where the yawl was capsized. On being lifted ondeck he fainted; and it was not until long afterwards, by carefulattention from the captain and crew, that he was brought round. Hesuffered great pain in several parts of his body, and it was withdifficulty that he swallowed some warm beer. He was landed atLowestoft, and five days afterwards was able to walk back to Yarmouth. We were shown the knife with which he was enabled to cut off his clothesand boots. A piece of silver was fixed to it, on which were engravedthe names of the crew of the yawl, and the words, "Brock, aided by thisknife, was saved, after being seven and a half hours in the sea. 6thOctober, 1835. "

It was a remarkable thing that for some time previous he had beenwithout a knife, and only purchased this two days before. Nearly halfthe time he was exposed to the full sweep of the North Sea; the otherhalf he was partly sheltered by the Newarp and Cross Sands. 

Between this and Yarmouth Roads is another long sandbank, at the southend of which is the Nicholas Gat; then comes the Corton Sandbank, overthe end of which he was driven. He was described to us as astrongly-built man of five feet five. Though Captain Webb and othershave swum far greater distances, few Englishmen have ever performed sucha feat as this under similar circumstances. 

Afterwards we inspected the lifeboats, which are kept in houses built toshelter them from the weather. They belong to an institution called theNorfolk Association for Saving Life from Shipwreck, and are similar inconstruction to those already described. They are fitted to carriagesto convey them along the beach or down to the harbour. 

We went through a number of sheds where were some fine luggers, used forthe herring and mackerel fishery. Their crews were getting them readyfor sea. Each vessel is from forty to fifty tons burden, and carries acrew of ten men. 

The herring usually arrives on the Norfolk coast about the last week inSeptember, for the purpose of spawning, and they are then in the bestcondition to become the food of man. The name "herring" is derived fromthe German _heer_, an army, to which they are likened in consequence ofthe vast number which keep together. They are mostly caught at aconsiderable distance from the coast; but they do not always appear inthe same place. Formerly it was supposed that they were migratory; butit is now believed that they keep within the deeper parts of the oceanuntil they rise nearer the surface in the autumn to deposit their eggs. For some years they have appeared near the surface as early as the lastweek in August. A herring seldom measures more than fourteen inches inlength; but we were told that one was caught some years ago seventeenand a half inches in length, seven and a half in girth, and that itweighed thirteen ounces! Each lugger carries from sixty to a hundrednets; each net is about fifteen yards long, and is floated by corksplaced a few feet apart. The united nets form what is called a trainfleet, or drift of nets. The depth to which they are sunk is regulatedby ropes seven or eight yards long, called seizings, of which there aretwo to each net. They are made fast to a stout warp, running along thewhole of the train, which is upwards of a mile in length, and supportednear the surface by kegs, called "bowls. " The warp is useful in takingthe strain off the nets, and in preventing their loss, in case the netsshould be fouled, or cut by a vessel passing over them. The meshes areabout an inch square. 

Drift fishing is carried on at night. The nets are "shot" a littlebefore sunset, the vessel keeping before the wind, with only enough sailset to take her clear of the nets as they are thrown overboard. Whenall the nets are out, about fifteen more fathoms of warp are paid out;and by this the vessel is swung round, and then rides head to the wind, a small mizen being set to keep her in that position. 

One of the masters of a lugger showed us the way the nets hang in thewater; the whole train being extended in nearly a straight line, the bigrope to which the corks are fastened being uppermost, and the body ofthe net hanging perpendicularly in the water, forming a wall of nettingmore than two thousand yards long and about eight yards deep. Thestrain from the vessel serves to keep the net extended, and the whole--vessel and nets together--drifts along with the tide. 

During the day the fish keep near the bottom; but as night closes in, should the weather be fine, they swim nearer the surface, and attemptingto swim through the barriers of net on each side of them, a large numberbecome entangled or meshed, their gills preventing their return whenonce their heads have passed through the meshes. 

After waiting two or three hours, the first net is hauled on board, when, if it is found that a number of fish have been caught, the wholeof the net is hauled in by means of a capstan and the warp to which thenets are fastened. The fish are then shaken out, and the vessel beatsup again to the spot from which the net was first shot, and the processis repeated. 

Mackerel nets have larger meshes, being twenty-four or twenty-five tothe yard. They are not so deep as the herring nets, but they are twiceas long, often extending to a distance of nearly two miles and a half. Occasionally in one night a single boat has taken from twelve tofourteen lasts of herrings, each last numbering ten thousand fish; butof course the catch is uncertain. One boat, however, has been known tobring in the enormous quantity of twenty lasts. Some few years agoupwards of nine thousand lasts, or nearly one hundred and twentymillions of fish, were caught by the Yarmouth luggers. Several vesselsbring in one hundred lasts each. 

As is well-known, immediately the herring leaves the water it dies;hence the phrase, "dead as a herring. " To preserve the fish, salt isimmediately thrown upon them in the boats; they are carried to thefish-house in open wicker baskets, called swills, where they aredelivered over to a man called a "tower, " when they are placed on thesalting floor. If they are to be used at home, they remain for onlytwenty-four hours; but if for the foreign markets, for several days. They are afterwards washed in fresh water, and strung up by splitspassed through their gills, one tier below another, to about seven feetfrom the ground. Oak-wood fires are then kindled under them forfourteen days, if intended for the foreign market; but if for home use, only twenty-four hours. The first are called red-herrings, and thelatter are known as bloaters. When sufficiently cured, they are packedin barrels, each containing about seven hundred fish. Between thirtyand forty thousand barrels are sent to the Mediterranean, but a farlarger quantity is used at home. Upwards of two hundred boats, carryingtwo thousand men, are employed in the herring fishery; but many more areengaged on shore in curing the fish. 

Hearing that the deep-sea fishing was going on, papa and Uncle Tomagreed to accompany one of the cutters which was about to rejoin thefleet; and as we had seen more of Yarmouth than of most places we hadvisited, we returned on board to get ready to sail with our friend. 

Before long the cutter appeared, and we stood out of the harbour afterher. We sailed in company for two days, when on Sunday morning, shortlyafter breakfast, we made out the fleet, with most of the vessels near ushove-to, a steamer being among them, stationary, like the rest. In thedistance were many other vessels, some standing towards the fleet, others sailing in different directions, and a few ships passing by. Ongetting near enough to distinguish their flags, we found that several ofthem carried the "Bethel" flag, a notice that service was to be held onboard. Both the yachts therefore hove-to, and under the guidance of ourfriend we pulled on board one of the vessels. We were gladly receivedby the master, who was going to conduct the service. The crews ofseveral other vessels having come on board, he invited us to join them, which we willingly did, although the space was somewhat confined. Several hymns were sung, the fine manly voices of the fishermenproducing a good effect. A chapter of God's Word was read, and a gospeladdress was given. After service, the men returned on board theirvessels with books and tracts, which had been distributed among them. 

We remained until the following day, that we might see the fish caught. Our friend the skipper gave us a great deal of information abouttrawlers. The Yarmouth fleet consists of several hundred vessels, ranging from fifty to seventy tons. They have increased rapidly. Fiftyyears ago, there were none belonging to Great Yarmouth. They only forma small portion of English and Irish trawling vessels. Many hundredsail leave the Thames, the Humber, Scarborough, and Lowestoft, to fishin the North Sea; while several other places send out fifty or sixtyvessels to the English or Irish Channels, manned by some thousands offishermen. It is calculated that they supply the English markets dailywith three or four hundred tons of fish. 

The beam trawl consists of a triangular purse-shaped net, about seventyfeet long, forty wide at the mouth, gradually diminishing to four orfive at the commencement of the cod, as the smaller end is called. Thispart of the trawl, about ten feet long, is of a uniform breadth to theextremity, which is closed by a draw-rope, like the string of a purse. The upper part of the mouth is made fast to a beam about forty feet inlength, which keeps the net open. This beam is supported by two uprightiron frames, three feet in height, known as the trawl heads, or irons;the lower being flattened, to rest on the ground. The under side of thenet is made with a curved margin. The outside is guarded from chafing, when the trawl is being worked over the bottom, by pieces of old net. The meshes vary in size according to the part of the trawl. Near themouth, they are four inches square, and in the cod, an inch and aquarter. The trawl is hauled along by a bridle, that is to say, by tworopes of about fifteen fathoms each, which are fastened to the ends ofthe trawl heads, and unite at a warp, one hundred and fifty fathomslong, which serves to haul the net along. Trawling, as a rule, iscarried on in the direction of the tide, although sometimes across it, but never against a stream. It is usually kept down for one tide, andits rate of progress is generally from half a mile to two miles an hourfaster than that of the stream. The fish caught are turbot, skate, soles, though others are occasionally taken in the net. The trawl canonly be used with advantage on smooth ground; and, of course, a sandybottom is preferred, not only from that being the usual resort ofseveral valuable kinds of ground fish, but from the less danger there ison such a surface of tearing the net to pieces. 

Formerly, the fish as soon as they were caught, were sent to market infast-sailing cutters, but now steamers are generally employed; the fish, as soon as collected, being packed in ice. The trawlers themselves stayout for six weeks at a time, in all seasons of the year. They areremarkably fine vessels, and capable of standing a great deal of roughwork; and a hardier set of men than their crews can scarcely anywhere befound. Steam trawlers are gradually coming into use, being independentof wind and weather, and one boat is capable of doing the work ofseveral ordinary vessels. 

CHAPTER THIRTEEN. 

SAFE IN PORT. 

Steering for Harwich after we had left the fleet, we passed, at adistance, the handsome town of Lowestoft, from which a considerablefishing-fleet sails, and then Aldborough, an ancient seaport, with anumber of new houses near it. When off Orford, on the Suffolk coast, papa told us that we were crossing the submarine telegraph line whichruns from thence to the Hague. We had also passed another, whichextends from Cromer to Emden. 

Catching sight of the pretty little village of Felixstowe--the housesfacing the sea on the north side--and of the neat watering-place ofDovercourt on the left, we stood in between Landguard Fort, on the northshore, and the long breakwater which runs out from the south, when wecrossed the mouth of the Orwell at the point where the Stour falls intoit, and came to an anchor off Harwich, among a considerable number ofvessels, the guardship rising like a giant in their midst. 

Though the town is small, the port has long been famous. We saw severalsteamers start for different parts of the Continent. If I was askedwhat was the chief article of sale in the town, I should say, Shrimps. 

We made a short excursion up the Stour, the banks of which are richlywooded; and we also pulled up to Ipswich, where the Orwell may be saidto commence, for the river above the town is confined in a narrowcanal-like channel. On our return, while at anchor in the harbour, anoyster-dredging vessel brought-up close to us, and papa, who was alwayson the look-out for information, invited the skipper to come on board. 

He gave us a good deal of curious information about the oyster. Theyare obtained by means of a dredge, which consists of a flat bag, theunder part made of strong iron rings looped together by stout wire. Theupper side is merely a strong netting, as it is not exposed to so muchwear as the part which is drawn along the ground. The mouth of this bagis fastened to an iron frame, with an opening about four inches deep, extending the whole breadth of the bag. The lower part of this frame isflattened and turned forward at such an angle as to enable it to scrapethe surface of the ground. To the ends of the scraper two stout ironrods are firmly welded; these, after curving upwards, form the narrowsides of the mouth, and extend forward four or five feet, when theyunite at a handle, to which a stout warp is made fast. The free end ofthe bag is secured to a stout stick, which forms a convenient hold whenthe contents of the dredge are being turned out. The weight of thedredge keeps it at the bottom, and but little skill is required inworking it. A good-sized boat can work two dredges at one time, onefrom each quarter. 

Oyster-beds are often valuable property, and they are rented by variouscompanies. Rules have been made for the preservation of oysters, and toallow of new beds being formed. Oysters require nursing, and unless thebeds were carefully preserved and reconstructed, they would disappear. The beds are level banks of no great depth, which are seldom or neveruncovered by the tide. The first important business, when preparing abed on which the oyster may spawn, or spat, as it is called, is tosprinkle over it broken plates and pans and tiles, with empty shells andsuch like substances, to which the embryo oyster immediately attachesitself. This broken stuff is called "skultch. " The oyster deposits itsspawn in July; and a month afterwards the young oysters can be seensticking fast to the skultch in confused clusters. Here they remain fortwo or three years, until they become about the size of a shilling; theyare then taken up and spread evenly over the surface. After anotheryear they are once more dredged up and scattered on the beds, where theyare to remain until full-grown. Seven years are required to bring anoyster to maturity; but many are dredged up and sold when only fiveyears old. The muddy shores of Essex are highly favourable to thebreeding of oysters; and those are considered very fine which aredredged from the beds at the mouth of the river Colne. 

"You see, sir, " said the skipper; "oysters ain't fit to eat except incertain months. They are only prime from October to March. In Aprilthey begin to sicken, they are of a milky white colour, though fitenough to look at; then they become of a dirty grey colour, and thenchange to black by July, when they cast their spawn. After this ittakes them two months to get well again, and they ought to have anothermonth to fatten up, which brings us to October. It always makes meangry-like when I see people eating oysters in August; but there arepoachers at all times ready to fish them up; and there would be manymore if they were not sharply looked after. It is a curious fact, thatwhile the beds on the coast of Kent make very good nurseries foroysters, they do not grow as large and fat as they do on the Essexcoast. A little fresh water don't hurt them; but snow water kills them, as it does other fish, outright. To most people, one oyster is justlike another; but there are many different sorts, and each sort has afancy for a particular place. The oyster gives us work for most monthsin the year; for when not fishing to sell, we are either dredging up theyoung oysters or laying them down again. "

It is calculated that one spawn oyster produces eight hundred thousandyoung; and if we suppose that of every five hundred oysters, only onehundred breed during the season, and if the spat of only one of thislatter number is shed, notwithstanding the great loss, the yield will beten thousand young oysters. 

The oyster has many enemies besides man. There are creatures in the seawhich are very fond of them; among these are the sea urchin, the "fivefinger, " and the "whelk-tingle. " This creature sticks to the shell, through which it pierces a small hole, and sucks out the delicatemorsel. One thing, however, is very certain--that the supply of oystershas very greatly fallen off of late years; but whether the fishermen areanswerable for this, it is difficult to say. 

Besides the numerous oyster-beds in shallow waters, there are deep-seabeds both off the English and Irish coasts. Upwards of three hundredvessels, each of about twenty-five tons, and carrying six men, hail fromColchester, Rochester, and Jersey, engaged specially on these deep-seabeds. One is ten or twelve miles off Great Grimsby, and others exist inthe English Channel. Most of the owners of the beds of the shallowestuaries have a large capital invested. One company alone spends threehundred pounds a month in wages, besides rent and other expenses, andsix hundred a year in watching against poachers. It sends fourteenhundred bushels to a single dealer in London, seven thousand to Kent, and ten thousand to Ostend and Dunkirk. 

This gave us some notion of the vast trade carried on in oysters alone. We were told that they sell retail for the sum of twopence each. Iwonder people can venture to eat them. 

We had a look at Dovercourt, filled with visitors, and with a brand-newaspect, contrasting with venerable Harwich. We also managed to pull upa narrow creek to Felixstowe, which I should describe as consisting of along row of Swiss-like cottages, with a few more substantial-lookingresidences perched on the cliffs above. 

Our stay at Harwich was short, though we had no longer any fear of notgetting round to the Isle of Wight before the equinoctial galescommenced. We sailed early in the morning, papa being anxious to getacross the mouth of the Thames, either as far as Ramsgate or Deal, toavoid the risk of being run down by vessels standing up or down theriver during the night. 

"But would they dare to do it?" asked Dick, when papa made the remark. 

"They would not intend to do so; but should the wind fall light, wemight not be able to get out of their way. I shall not forget theremark made by a skipper on board a large steamer, when I was on my wayto pay a visit to some friends in Edinburgh. We ran stem on into aschooner, which sank immediately; and although I hurried forward I wasonly in time to see her masts disappear. `Serves them right!' exclaimedthe skipper, who was like myself a passenger. `Serves them right; theyshould have kept a brighter lookout!' The poor fellows managed toscramble on board and to save their lives. "

A short distance further we came off Walton-on-the-Naze, the "Naze"being a nose or promontory, with the sea on one side and a shallowbackwater on the other. We had to keep a bright lookout while standingacross the mouth of the Thames, having nearly a dozen steamers in sightgliding swiftly along, and sailing vessels of all sizes, from themagnificent Indiaman, or Australian merchant-ship, of a thousand or moretons, down to the little coaster, measuring no more than forty or fifty;while yachts with sails white as snow were darting hither and thither. Besides these, there were not a few barges with yellow or tanned sails, coming out of the numerous estuaries to the north of the river, someeven bound round the North Foreland, their deep weather-boards enablingthem to beat to windward in a way which, considering their build, atfirst looks surprising. We agreed that we should not like to go to seaon board one of them, laden almost to the gunwale, so that the watermust wash over their decks; but the fact is, they are completelybattened down, and are like casks; so that the only place the sea canget into is the little cabin aft, or the forepeak, in which the crew, consisting of a couple of men and a boy, are compelled to live. Thewind holding fair, we passed the North Foreland, standing out boldlyinto the sea; then sighted Broadstairs and Ramsgate. We ran inside ofthe ill-famed Goodwin Sands, and came to an anchor in the Downs off thelow sandy beach of Deal. 

The town extends a considerable way along the shore, and a fine pierruns off from it. At the south end is a castle in a good state ofrepair, although it would be more picturesque if it were a ruin. Abouta mile further to the south we saw Walmer Castle, where the Lord Wardenof the Cinque Ports resides. It was here that the Duke of Wellingtonspent the latter days of his life. We went on shore, and had a gooddeal of talk with some of those magnificent fellows, the Deal boatmen, who are probably the most daring seamen and skilful pilots of any alongthe coast of England. 

Deal has a thoroughly salt-water smack about it. "Boys and even girlsseemed to be born seamen, " as Dick observed; taking their part, if notin navigating the boats, in launching or hauling them up on the beach, and attending to them; while the older part of the community are restingfrom their labours. We were amused at a scene we witnessed on thebeach. Two old men, aided by a big girl and a boy, were engaged inhauling up a lugger by means of a windlass, which they worked round andround with wonderful energy, putting to shame a young fellow who sat ona coil of rope idly smoking his pipe. 

We were satisfied with a few hours spent at Deal. When once more underweigh, we passed the South Foreland, towering up high above our heads;then rounding the cliffs on which Dover Castle stands, three hundred andtwenty feet above the sea, we stood into the harbour. 

To the south of us, sheer out of the water, rose the Shakespeare Cliff, where samphire was wont to grow; while between it and the castleappeared the old town on either side of a steep valley, the heights, asfar as we could see them, covered with modern houses, churches, andother public buildings. 

On landing we went over the castle, which resembles, in some respects, that of Gibraltar, as the fortifications are of an irregular form, tosuit the nature of the ground. Excavated far below in the chalk rockare numerous galleries, from which heavy guns would thunder forth anunmistakeable warning to any foes attempting to enter the harbour, or toflaunt their flags within range. Until a few years ago both the innerand outer harbours were dry at low water but now a fine new harbour hasbeen formed. 

Dover, papa reminded us, is one of the original Cinque Ports, so calledfrom their number--five. They consisted, in the time of William theConqueror, of Dover, Sandwich, Hythe, Romney, and Hastings. To thesewere afterwards added Winchelsea and Rye. These ports had peculiarprivileges given to them, on condition that they should furnish theshipping required for the purposes of state. When ships were wanted, the king issued to each of the ports a summons to provide its quota. InEdward the First's time, the number they were bound to supply wasfifty-seven fully equipped ships. The period of gratuitous service wasfifteen days, after which they received payment. The chief officer ofthe Cinque Ports was called the Lord Warden. It was considered a highdignity, and was long held by the Duke of Wellington. 

Many of their privileges have now been abrogated, as the ports have longbeen relieved of their responsibilities. It would certainly astonishthe inhabitants of Winchelsea or Dover if the Queen should inform themthat they must send half a dozen ironclads to complete the fleet offSpithead!

Sailing as close as we could under Shakespeare's Cliff, we passedFolkestone, standing partly in a hollow between two cliffs, and partlyup the side of that on the west. Then we rounded the headland ofDungeness; and sailing by Rye and Winchelsea, we passed Hastings, renowned in history, a portion, looking old and venerable, joined to thespic-and-span new town of Saint Leonard's. 

Running past Eastbourne, we arrived off the bold, wild-looking point ofBeachy Head. The weather becoming threatening, the wind, which hadhitherto been off shore, began to shift, and drew more and more to thewestward, the sky having anything but a pleasant appearance. Darkclouds gathered in dense masses on the horizon, and there was everyindication of a heavy gale. Although so near the end of our voyage, there appeared a probability of its being continued for several dayslonger. 

Papa having hailed Uncle Tom, it was agreed that we should standclose-hauled on the starboard tack away from the land, and endeavour tofetch Spithead. 

We sighted two small places, Seaford and Newhaven, and could make outBrighton, covering a wide extent of ground along the seashore, andreaching the slopes of the hills and downs beyond. 

"By standing on we shall have Shoreham under our lee; and we can but runin there, if we find it impossible to beat to the westward against thegale, " observed papa. "It is not exactly the port in which one wouldchoose to be weather-bound, but we may be thankful if we get there. "

The bright revolving light at Beachy Head shone forth astern. We weregradually sinking it lower and lower; at length we lost sight of italtogether. It might be our last night at sea, and I begged papa to letus remain on deck. 

He laughed. "You may, as long as you like to keep awake; but you musttake care not to topple overboard. "

Dick and I for some time walked the deck, believing that we were keepingwatch, and, of course, looking out on every side. 

"The wind's drawing more round to the south'ard, " I heard Truck remark. "If we go about, we shall soon catch sight of the Owers, and one moretack will take us into Saint Helen's. "

I was very anxious to see the light, because we had seen it beforestarting to the westward, and it would show us really and truly that wehad gone right round England. I continued pacing up and down, in spiteof the pitching of our little craft, for I knew if I were to stop for amoment, I should fall asleep. Of course we kept a sharp lookout, notonly for the light, but for any vessels which might be running upChannel or beating down it. At last I heard Truck say:

"There's the light, sir;" and I made out, a little on our starboard bow, the Owers Light. 

"Hurrah!" I exclaimed; "we have been right round England!"

"I can't make it out, " said Dick, in a drowsy voice. "We've beensailing over the plain sea all the time, except when we mounted thelocks at the Caledonian Canal. I suppose it is all right though. "

Dick could say no more. I had to take him by the shoulders and help himdown the companion ladder. So sleepy was he, that he could scarcelypull off his clothes, and would have turned in fully dressed if I hadnot helped him. 

Next morning, when we awoke and turned out on deck, we were in sight ofmany a well-known scene. Ryde astern, Cowes on our port quarter; whilewith a fresh breeze, running past Calshot Castle, we stood up theSouthampton Water, and our voyage was over. 

After breakfast, Uncle Tom, Jack, and Oliver, came on board; andtogether we thanked God for having preserved us from the dangers, seenand unseen, to which we had been exposed. We had indeed had a pleasanttime of it, and very naturally did not think of any of the anxiousmoments we had occasionally gone through. 

Uncle Tom and Jack had to return home at once; and they took Dick withthem, to send him to his aunt and uncle. 

"The next few days won't be so pleasant, " he said, making a long face. "However, we shall meet at the end of them; and won't we spin long yarnsto the fellows at school!"

Papa, leaving us on board, went at once to his agents, to whom he hadwritten, requesting them to make inquiries about Nat's friends. Aftersome time he returned, saying that no information had been received, andthat he would take Nat home with us. 

Of this we were very glad. It made some amends to us for having to goon shore and quit the pleasant life we had so long been leading onboard. We shook hands with Truck and all the crew, and in a short timewere seated in the railway-carriage rattling up to London. We have eversince been expecting to hear of some of our little guest's relativescoming to look for him; but, as yet, no one has appeared; and as papawould never think of turning him adrift, we believe that he will becomeone of us; and, after he has been some years at school, perhaps go intothe navy, for which, strange to say, he has a wonderful fancy.