A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND ETC. IN THE YEAR 1699. Wherein are described, The Canary Islands, the Isles of Mayo and St. Jago. The Bay ofAll-Saints, with the forts and town of Bahia in Brazil. Cape Salvador. The winds on the Brazilian coast. Abrolho Shoals. A table of all thevariations observed in this voyage. Occurrences near the Cape of GoodHope. The course to New Holland. Shark's Bay. The isles and coast, etc. Of New Holland. Their inhabitants, manners, customs, trade, etc. Their harbours, soil, beasts, birds, fish, etc. Trees, plants, fruits, etc. ... Illustrated with several maps and draughts: also divers birds, fishes andplants not found in this part of the world, curiously engraven on copperplates. ... BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM DAMPIER. ... THE THIRD EDITION. ... LONDON, Printed for James and John Knapton at the Crown in St. Paul's Churchyard. 1729. ... CONTENTS. DEDICATION. THE PREFACE. CHAPTER 1. The Author's departure from the Downs. A caution to those who sail in the Channel. His arrival at the Canary Islands. Santa Cruz in Tenerife; the road and town, and Spanish wreck. Laguna Town lake and country; and Oratavia town and road. Of the wines and other commodities of Tenerife, etc. And the governors at Laguna and Santa Cruz. Of the winds in these seas. The Author's arrival at Mayo. Of the Cape Verde Islands; its salt pond compared with that of SaltTortuga; its trade for salt, and frape-boats. Its vegetables, silk-cotton, etc. Its soil, and towns; its guinea-hens and other fowls, beasts, and fish. Of the sea turtles, etc. Laying in the wet season. Of the natives, their trade and livelihood. The Author's arrival at St. Jago; Praya and St. Jago Town. Of the inhabitants and their commodities. Of the custard-apple, St. Jago Road. Fogo. CHAPTER 2. The Author's deliberation on the sequel of his voyage, and departure from St. Jago. His course, and the winds, etc. In crossing the Line. He stands away for the Bay of All-Saints in Brazil; and why. His arrival on that coast and in the bay. Of the several forts, the road, situation, town, and buildings of Bahia. Of its Governor, ships and merchants; and commodities to and from Europe. Claying of sugar. The season for the European ships, and coir cables: of their Guinea trade and of the coasting trade, and whale killing. Of the inhabitants of Bahia; their carrying in hammocks: their artificers, crane for goods, and negro slaves. Of the country about Bahia, its soil and product. Its timber-trees; the sapiera, vermiatico, commesserie, guitteba, serrie, and mangroves. The bastard-coco, its nuts and cables; and the silk-cotton-trees. The Brazilian fruits, oranges, etc. Of the soursops, cashews and jennipahs. Of their peculiar fruits, arisahs, mericasahs, petangos, petumbos, mungaroos, muckishaws, ingwas, otees, and musteran-de-ovas. Of the palmberries, physick-nuts, mendibees, etc. And their roots and herbs, etc. Of their wildfowl, macaws, parrots, etc. The yemma, carrion-crow and chattering-crow, bill-bird, curreso, turtledove and wild pigeons; the jenetee, clocking-hen, crab-catcher, galden, and black heron: the ducks, widgeon and teal; and ostriches to the southward, and of the dunghill-fowls. Of their cattle, horses, etc. Leopards and tigers. Of their serpents; the rattlesnake, small green snake. Amphisbaena, small black and small grey snake; the great land-, and the great watersnake; and of the water-dog. Of their sea-fish and turtle; and of St. Paul's Town. CHAPTER 3. The Author's stay and business at Bahia: of the winds, and seasons of the year there. His departure for New Holland. Cape Salvador. The winds on the Brazilian coast; and Abrolho Shoal; fish and birds: the shearwater bird, and cooking of sharks. Excessive number of birds about a dead whale; of the pintado bird, and the petrel, etc. Of a bird that shows the Cape of Good Hope to be near: of the sea-reckonings, and variations: and a table of all the variations observed in this voyage. Occurrences near the Cape; and the Author's passing by it. Of the westerly winds beyond it: a storm, and its presages. The Author's course to New Holland; and signs of approaching it. Another Abrolho Shoal and storm, and the Author's arrival on part of New Holland. That part described, and Shark's Bay, where he first anchors. Of the land there, vegetables, birds, etc. A particular sort of iguana: fish, and beautiful shells; turtle, large shark, and water-serpents. The Author's removing to another part of New Holland: dolphins, whales, and more sea-serpents: and of a passage or strait suspected here: of the vegetables, birds, and fish. He anchors on a third part of New Holland, and digs wells, but brackish. Of the inhabitants there, and great tides, the vegetables and animals, etc. MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. MAP. CAPTAIN DAMPIER'S NEW VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND ETC. IN 1699 ETC. TABLE 1. CANARY ISLANDS. TABLE 2. CAPE VERDE ISLANDS. TABLE 3. BRAZIL. BIRDS OF THE VOYAGE:FIGURE 1: THE PINTADO BIRD. FIGURE 2: THIS VERY MUCH RESEMBLES THE GUARAUNA, DESCRIBED AND FIGURED BYPISO. TABLE 4. NEW HOLLAND. BIRDS OF NEW HOLLAND:FIGURE 3: THE HEAD AND GREATEST PART OF THE NECK OF THIS BIRD IS RED ANDTHEREIN DIFFERS FROM THE AVOFETTA OF ITALY. FIGURE 4: THE BILL AND LEGS OF THIS BIRD ARE OF A BRIGHT RED. FIGURE 5: A NODDY OF NEW HOLLAND. FIGURE 6: A COMMON NODDY. FISH OF NEW HOLLAND:FIGURE 1: THE MONKFISH. FIGURE 3: A FISH TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND. FIGURE 6: A REMORA TAKEN STICKING TO SHARKS BACKS. FIGURE 8: A CUTTLE TAKEN NEAR NEW HOLLAND. FIGURE 9: A FLYING-FISH TAKEN IN THE OPEN SEA. PLANTS FOUND IN BRAZIL. TABLE 1 PLANTS. PLANTS FOUND IN NEW HOLLAND. TABLE 2 PLANTS. PLANTS FOUND IN NEW HOLLAND. TABLE 3 PLANTS. PLANTS FOUND IN NEW HOLLAND AND TIMOR. TABLE 4 PLANTS. PLANTS FOUND IN THE SEA NEAR NEW GUINEA. TABLE 5 PLANTS. FISH OF NEW HOLLAND. PLATE 3 FISHES:FIGURE 4: A FISH CALLED BY THE SEAMEN THE OLD WIFE. FIGURE 5: A FISH OF THE TUNNY KIND TAKEN ON THE COAST OF NEW HOLLAND. DOLPHINS. PLATE 2 FISHES:FIGURE 2: THE DOLPHIN OF THE ANCIENTS TAKEN NEAR THE LINE, CALLED BY OURSEAMEN A PORPOISE. FIGURE 7: A DOLPHIN AS IT IS USUALLY CALLED BY OUR SEAMEN TAKEN IN THEOPEN SEA. A VOYAGE TO NEW HOLLAND, ETC. IN THE YEAR 1699. DEDICATION. To the Right Honourable Thomas, Earl of Pembroke, Lord President of Her Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Council. My Lord, The honour I had of being employed in the service of his late Majesty ofillustrious memory, at the time when Your Lordship presided at theAdmiralty, gives me the boldness to ask your protection of the followingpapers. They consist of some remarks made upon very distant climates, which I should have the vanity to think altogether new, could I persuademyself they had escaped Your Lordship's knowledge. However I have been socautious of publishing any thing in my whole book that is generally knownthat I have denied myself the pleasure of paying the due honours to YourLordship's name in the Dedication. I am ashamed, My Lord, to offer you soimperfect a present, having not time to set down all the memoirs of mylast voyage: but, as the particular service I have now undertaken hindersme from finishing this volume, so I hope it will give me an opportunityof paying my respects to Your Lordship in a new one. The world is apt to judge of everything by the success; and whoever hasill fortune will hardly be allowed a good name. This, My Lord, was myunhappiness in my late expedition in the Roebuck, which foundered throughperfect age near the island of Ascension. I suffered extremely in myreputation by that misfortune; though I comfort myself with the thoughtsthat my enemies could not charge any neglect upon me. And since I havethe honour to be acquitted by Your Lordship's judgment I should be veryhumble not to value myself upon so complete a vindication. This and aworld of other favours which I have been so happy as to receive from YourLordship's goodness, do engage me to be with an everlasting respect, My Lord, Your Lordship's most faithful and obedient servant, WILL. DAMPIER. THE PREFACE. The favourable reception my two former volumes of voyages anddescriptions have already met with in the world gives me reason to hopethat, notwithstanding the objections which have been raised against me byprejudiced persons, this third volume likewise may in some measure beacceptable to candid and impartial readers who are curious to know thenature of the inhabitants, animals, plants, soil, etc. In those distantcountries, which have either seldom or not at all been visited by anyEuropeans. It has almost always been the fate of those who have made new discoveriesto be disesteemed and slightly spoken of by such as either have had notrue relish and value for the things themselves that are discovered, orhave had some prejudice against the persons by whom the discoveries weremade. It would be vain therefore and unreasonable in me to expect toescape the censure of all, or to hope for better treatment than farworthier persons have met with before me. But this satisfaction I am sureof having, that the things themselves in the discovery of which I havebeen employed are most worthy of our diligentest search and inquiry;being the various and wonderful works of God in different parts of theworld: and however unfit a person I may be in other respects to haveundertaken this task, yet at least I have given a faithful account, andhave found some things undiscovered by any before, and which may at leastbe some assistance and direction to better qualified persons who shallcome after me. It has been objected against me by some that my accounts and descriptionsof things are dry and jejune, not filled with variety of pleasant matterto divert and gratify the curious reader. How far this is true I mustleave to the world to judge. But if I have been exactly and strictlycareful to give only true relations and descriptions of things (as I amsure I have) and if my descriptions be such as may be of use not only tomyself (which I have already in good measure experienced) but also toothers in future voyages; and likewise to such readers at home as aremore desirous of a plain and just account of the true nature and state ofthe things described than of a polite and rhetorical narrative: I hopeall the defects in my style will meet with an easy and ready pardon. Others have taxed me with borrowing from other men's journals; and withinsufficiency, as if I was not myself the author of what I write butpublished things digested and drawn up by others. As to the first part ofthis objection I assure the reader I have taken nothing from any manwithout mentioning his name, except some very few relations andparticular observations received from credible persons who desired not tobe named; and these I have always expressly distinguished in my booksfrom what I relate as of my own observing. And as to the latter I thinkit so far from being a diminution to one of my education and employmentto have what I write revised and corrected by friends that, on thecontrary, the best and most eminent authors are not ashamed to own thesame thing, and look upon it as an advantage. Lastly I know there are some who are apt to slight my accounts anddescriptions of things as if it was an easy matter and of little or nodifficulty to do all that I have done, to visit little more than thecoasts of unknown countries, and make short and imperfect observations ofthings only near the shore. But whoever is experienced in these matters, or considers things impartially, will be of a very different opinion. Andanyone who is sensible how backward and refractory the seamen are apt tobe in long voyages when they know not whither they are going, howignorant they are of the nature of the winds and the shifting seasons ofthe monsoons, and how little even the officers themselves generally areskilled in the variation of the needle and the use of the azimuthcompass; besides the hazard of all outward accidents in strange andunknown seas: anyone, I say, who is sensible of these difficulties willbe much more pleased at the discoveries and observations I have been ableto make than displeased with me that I did not make more. Thus much I thought necessary to premise in my own vindication againstthe objections that have been made to my former performances. But not totrouble the reader any further with matters of this nature; what I havemore to offer shall be only in relation to the following voyage. For the better apprehending the course of this voyage and the situationof the places mentioned in it I have here, as in the former volumes, caused a map to be engraven with a pricked line representing to the eyethe whole thread of the voyage at one view, besides charts and figures ofparticular places, to make the descriptions I have given of them moreintelligible and useful. Moreover, which I had not opportunity of doing in my former voyages;having now had in the ship with me a person skilled in drawing, I have bythis means been enabled, for the greater satisfaction of the curiousreader, to present him with exact cuts and figures of several of theprincipal and most remarkable of those birds, beasts, fishes and plants, which are described in the following narrative; and also of severalwhich, not being able to give any better or so good an account of, as bycausing them to be exactly engraven, the reader will not find any furtherdescription of them, but only that they were found in such or suchparticular countries. The plants themselves are in the hands of theingenious Dr. Woodward. I could have caused many others to be drawn inlike manner but that I resolved to confine myself to such only as hadsome very remarkable difference in the shape of their principal partsfrom any that are found in Europe. I have besides several birds andfishes ready drawn, which I could not put into the present volume becausethey were found in countries to the description whereof the followingnarrative does not reach. For, being obliged to prepare for anothervoyage sooner than I at first expected, I have not been able to continuethe ensuing narrative any further than to my departure from the coast ofNew Holland. But if it please God that I return again safe, the readermay expect a continuation of this voyage from my departure from NewHolland till the foundering of my ship near the island of Ascension. In the meantime to make the narrative in some measure complete I shallhere add a summary abstract of the latter part of the voyage, whereof Ihave not had time to draw out of my journals a full and particularaccount at large. Departing therefore from the coast of New Holland inthe beginning of September 1699 we arrived at Timor September 15 andanchored off that island. On the 24th we obtained a small supply of freshwater from the governor of a Dutch fort and factory there; we found alsothere a Portuguese settlement and were kindly treated by them. On the 3rdof December we arrived on the coast of New Guinea; where we found goodfresh water and had commerce with the inhabitants of a certain islandcalled Pulo Sabuda. After which, passing to the northward, we rangedalong the coast to the easternmost part of New Guinea, which I found doesnot join to the mainland of New Guinea, but is an island, as I havedescribed it in my map, and called it New Britain. It is probable this island may afford many rich commodities, and thenatives may be easily brought to commerce. But the many difficulties I atthis time met with, the want of convenience to clean my ship, the fewnessof my men, their desire to hasten home, and the danger of continuing inthese circumstances in seas where the shoals and coasts were utterlyunknown and must be searched out with much caution and length of time, hindered me from prosecuting any further at present my intended search. What I have been able to do in this matter for the public service will, Ihope, be candidly received; and no difficulties shall discourage me fromendeavouring to promote the same end whenever I have an opportunity putinto my hands. May 18 in our return we arrived at Timor. June 21 we passed by part ofthe island Java. July 4 we anchored in Batavia Road, and I went ashore, visited the Dutch General, and desired the privilege of buying provisionsthat I wanted, which was granted me. In this road we lay till the 17th ofOctober following, when, having fitted the ship, recruited myself withprovisions, filled all my water, and the season of the year for returningtowards Europe being come, I set sail from Batavia, and on the 19th ofDecember made the Cape of Good Hope, whence departing January 11 we madethe island of St. Helena on the 31st; and February the 21st the island ofAscension; near to which my ship, having sprung a leak which could not bestopped, foundered at sea; with much difficulty we got ashore where welived on goats and turtle; and on the 26th of February found, to ourgreat comfort, on the south-east side of a high mountain, about half amile from its top, a spring of fresh water. I returned to England in theCanterbury East India ship. For which wonderful deliverance from so manyand great dangers I think myself bound to return continual thanks toAlmighty God; whose divine providence if it shall please to bring me safeagain to my native country from my present intended voyage; I hope topublish a particular account of all the material things I observed in theseveral places which I have now but barely mentioned. ... A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS. 1699. CHAPTER 1. DEPARTURE AND PROVISIONING EN ROUTE. THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM THE DOWNS. I sailed from the Downs early on Saturday, January 14, 1699, with a fairwind, in His Majesty's Ship the Roebuck; carrying but 12 guns in thisvoyage and 50 men and boys with 20 months' provision. We had several ofthe King's ships in company, bound for Spithead and Plymouth, and by noonwe were off Dungeness. A CAUTION TO THOSE WHO SAIL IN THE CHANNEL. We parted from them that night, and stood down the Channel, but foundourselves next morning nearer the French coast than we expected; Cape deHague bearing south-east and by east 6 leagues. There were many otherships, some nearer, some farther off the French coast, who all seemed tohave gone nearer to it than they thought they should. My master, who wassomewhat troubled at it at first, was not displeased however to find thathe had company in his mistake: which as I have heard is a very commonone, and fatal to many ships. The occasion of it is the not allowing forthe change of the variation since the making of the charts; which CaptainHalley has observed to be very considerable. I shall refer the reader tohis own account of it which he caused to be published in a single sheetof paper, purposely for a caution to such as pass to and fro the EnglishChannel. And my own experience thus confirming to me the usefulness ofsuch a caution I was willing to take this occasion of helping towards themaking it the more public. Not to trouble the reader with every day's run, nor with the winds orweather (but only in the remoter parts, where it may be more particularlyuseful) standing away from Cape la Hague, we made the start about 5 thatafternoon; which being the last land we saw of England, we reckoned ourdeparture from thence: though we had rather have taken it from theLizard, if the hazy weather would have suffered us to have seen it. HIS ARRIVAL AT THE CANARY ISLANDS. The first land we saw after we were out of the Channel was CapeFinisterre, which we made on the 19th; and on the 28th made Lancerota, one of the Canary Islands of which, and of Allegrance, another of them, Ihave here given the sights, as they both appeared to us at two severalbearings and distances. SANTA CRUZ IN TENERIFE; THE ROAD AND TOWN, AND SPANISH WRECK. We were now standing away for the island Tenerife where I intended totake in some wine and brandy for my voyage. On Sunday, half an hour past3 in the afternoon, we made the island and crowded in with all our sailstill five; when the north-east point of the isle bore west-south-westdistance 7 leagues. But, being then so far off that I could not expect toget in before night, I lay by till next morning, deliberating whether Ishould put in at Santa Cruz, or at Oratavia, the one on the east, theother on the west side of the island; which lies mostly north and south;and these are the principal ports on each side. I chose Santa Cruz as thebetter harbour (especially at this time of the year) and as bestfurnished with that sort of wine which I had occasion to take in for myvoyage: so there I come to an anchor January 30th, in 33 fathom water, black slimy ground; about half a mile from the shore; from which distanceI took the sight of the town. In the road ships must ride in 30, 40, or 50 fathom water, not above halfa mile from the shore at farthest: and if there are many ships they mustride close one by another. The shore is generally high land and in mostplaces steep too. This road lies so open to the east that winds from thatside make a great swell, and very bad going ashore in boats: the shipsthat ride here are then often forced to put to sea, and sometimes to cutor slip their anchors, not being able to weigh them. The best andsmoothest landing is in a small sandy cove, about a mile to thenorth-east of the road, where there is good water, with which ships thatlade here are supplied; and many times ships that lade at Oratavia, whichis the chief port for trade, send their boats hither for water. That is aworse port for westerly than this is for easterly winds; and then allships that are there put to sea. Between this watering-place and SantaCruz are two little forts; which with some batteries scattered along thecoast command the road. Santa Cruz itself is a small unwalled townfronting the sea, guarded with two other forts to secure the road. Thereare about 200 houses in the town, all two stories high, strongly builtwith stone and covered with pantile. It hath two convents and one church, which are the best buildings in the town. The forts here could not securethe Spanish galleons from Admiral Blake, though they hauled in closeunder the main fort. Many of the inhabitants that are now living rememberthat action in which the English battered the town, and did it muchdamage; and the marks of the shot still remain in the fort walls. Thewrecks of the galleons that were burnt here lie in 15 fathom water: andit is said that most of the plate lies there, though some of it washastily carried ashore at Blake's coming in sight. LAGUNA TOWN LAKE AND COUNTRY; AND ORATAVIA TOWN AND ROAD. Soon after I had anchored I went ashore here to the Governor of the town, who received me very kindly and invited me to dine with him the next day. I returned on board in the evening, and went ashore again with two of myofficers the next morning; hoping to get up the hill time enough to seeLaguna, the principal town, and to be back again to dine with theGovernor of Santa Cruz; for I was told that Laguna was but 3 miles off. The road is all the way up a pretty steep hill; yet not so steep but thatcarts go up and down laden. There are public houses scattering by thewayside, where we got some wine. The land on each side seemed to be butrocky and dry; yet in many places we saw spots of green flourishing corn. At farther distances there were small vineyards by the sides of themountains, intermixed with abundance of waste rocky land, unfit forcultivation, which afforded only dildo-bushes. It was about 7 or 8 in themorning when we set out from Santa Cruz; and, it being fair clearweather, the sun shone very bright and warmed us sufficiently before wegot to the city Laguna; which we reached about 10 o'clock, all sweaty andtired, and were glad to refresh ourselves with a little wine in a sorrytippling-house: but we soon found out one of the English merchants thatresided here, who entertained us handsomely at dinner, and in theafternoon showed us the town. Laguna is a pretty large well-compacted town, and makes a very agreeableprospect. It stands part of it against a hill, and part in a level. Thehouses have mostly strong walls built with stone and covered withpantile. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleasant enough. There aremany fair buildings; among which are 2 parish churches, 2 nunneries, ahospital, 4 convents, and some chapels; besides many gentlemen's houses. The convents are those of St. Austin, St. Dominick, St. Francis, and St. Diego. The two churches have pretty high square steeples, which top therest of the buildings. The streets are not regular, yet they are mostlyspacious and pretty handsome; and near the middle of the town is a largeparade, which has good buildings about it. There is a strong prison onone side of it; near which is a large conduit of good water, thatsupplies all the town. They have many gardens which are set round withoranges, limes, and other fruits: in the middle of which are pot-herbs, salading, flowers, etc. And indeed, if the inhabitants were curious thisway, they might have very pleasant gardens: for as the town stands highfrom the sea on the brow of a plain that is all open to the east, andhath consequently the benefit of the true tradewind, which blows here andis most commonly fair; so there are seldom wanting at this town brisk, cooling, and refreshing breezes all the day. On the back of the town there is a large plain of 3 or 4 leagues inlength and 2 miles wide, producing a thick kindly sort of grass, whichlooked green and very pleasant when I was there, like our meadows inEngland in the spring. On the east side of this plain, very near the backof the town, there is a natural lake or pond of fresh water. It is abouthalf a mile in circumference; but being stagnant, it is only used forcattle to drink of. In the wintertime several sorts of wildfowl resorthither, affording plenty of game to the inhabitants of Laguna. This cityis called Laguna from hence; for that word in Spanish signifies a lake orpond. The plain is bounded on the west, the north-west and the south-westwith high steep hills; as high above this plain as this is above the sea;and it is from the foot of one of these mountains that the water of theconduit which supplies the town is conveyed over the plain in troughs ofstone raised upon pillars. And indeed, considering the situation of thetown, its large prospect to the east (for from hence you see the GrandCanary) its gardens, cool arbors, pleasant plain, green fields, the pondand aqueduct, and its refreshing breezes; it is a very delightfuldwelling, especially for such as have not business that calls them farand often from home: for, the island being generally mountainous, steep, and craggy, full of risings and fallings, it is very troublesometravelling up and down in it, unless in the cool of the mornings andevenings: and mules and asses are most used by them, both for riding andcarriage, as fittest for the stony, uneven roads. Beyond the mountains, on the south-west side, still further up, you maysee from the town and plain a small peaked hill, overlooking the rest. This is that which is called the Pike of Tenerife, so much noted for itsheight: but we saw it here at so great a disadvantage, by reason of thenearness of the adjacent mountains to us, that it looked inconsiderablein respect to its fame. OF THE WINES AND OTHER COMMODITIES OF TENERIFE, ETC. The true malmsey wine grows in this island; and this here is said to bethe best of its kind in the world. Here is also canary wine, and verdona, or green wine. The canary grows chiefly on the west side of the island;and therefore is commonly sent to Oratavia; which being the chief seaportfor trade in the island, the principal English merchants reside there, with their consul; because we have a great trade for this wine. I wastold that that town is bigger than Laguna; that it has but one church, but many convents: that the port is but ordinary at best and is very badwhen the north-west winds blow. These norwesters give notice of theircoming by a great sea that tumbles in on the shore for some time beforethey come, and by a black sky in the north-west. Upon these signs shipseither get up their anchors, or slip their cables and put to sea, and plyoff and on till the weather is over. Sometimes they are forced to do so 2or 3 times before they can take in their lading; which it is hard to dohere in the fairest weather: and for fresh water they send, as I havesaid, to Santa Cruz. Verdona is green, strong-bodied wine, harsher andsharper than canary. It is not so much esteemed in Europe, but isexported to the West Indies, and will keep best in hot countries; forwhich reason I touched here to take in some of it for my voyage. Thissort of wine is made chiefly on the east side of the island, and shippedoff at Santa Cruz. Besides these wines, which are yearly vended in great plenty from theCanary Islands (chiefly from Grand Canary, Tenerife, and Palma) here isstore of grain, as wheat, barley, and maize, which they often transportto other places. They have also some beans and peas, and coches, a sortof grain much like maize, sowed mostly to fatten land. They have papaws, which I shall speak more of hereafter; apples, pears, plums, cherries, and excellent peaches, apricots, guavas, pomegranates, citrons, oranges, lemons, limes, pumpkins, onions the best in the world, cabbages, turnips, potatoes, etc. They are also well stocked with horses, cows, asses, mules, sheep, goats, hogs, conies, and plenty of deer. The Lancerotahorses are said to be the most mettlesome, fleet, and loyal horses thatare. Lastly here are many fowls, as cocks, and hens, ducks, pigeons, partridges, etc. With plenty of fish, as mackerel, etc. All the CanaryIslands have of these commodities and provisions more or less: but asLancerota is most famed for horses, and Grand Canary, Tenerife, and Palmafor wines, Tenerife especially for the best malmsey (for which reasonthese 3 islands have the chief trade) so is Forteventura fordunghill-fowls, and Gomera for deer. Fowls and other eatables are dear onthe trading islands; but very plentiful and cheap on the other; andtherefore it is best for such ships that are going out on long voyages, and who design to take in but little wine, to touch rather at these last;where also they may be supplied with wine enough, good and cheap: and, for my own part, if I had known before I came hither, I should have gonerather to one of those islands than to Tenerife: but enough of this. AND THE GOVERNORS AT LAGUNA AND SANTA CRUZ. It is reported they can raise 12, 000 armed men on this island. Thegovernor or general (as he is called) of all the Canary Islands lives atLaguna: his name is Don Pedro de Ponto. He is a native of this island, and was not long since President of Panama in the South Seas: whobringing some very rich pearls from thence, which he presented to theQueen of Spain, was therefore, as it is said, made general of the CanaryIslands. The Grand Canary is an island much superior to Tenerife both inbulk and value; but this gentleman chooses rather to reside in this hisnative island. He has the character of a very worthy person; and governswith moderation and justice, being very well beloved. One of his deputies was the governor of Santa Cruz, with whom I was tohave dined; but staying so long at Laguna, I came but time enough to supwith him. He is a civil, discreet man. He resides in the main fort closeby the sea. There is a sentinel stands at his door; and he has a fewservants to wait on him. I was treated in a large dark lower room, whichhas but one small window. There were about 200 muskets hung up againstthe walls, and some pikes; no wainscot, hangings, nor much furniture. There was only a small old table, a few old chairs, and 2 or 3 prettylong forms to sit on. Having supped with him I invited him on board, andwent off in my boat. The next morning he came aboard with anothergentleman in his company, attended by 2 servants: but he was presentlyseasick and so much out of order that he could scarce eat or drinkanything, but went quickly ashore again. OF THE WINDS IN THESE SEAS. Having refreshed my men ashore, and taken in what we had occasion for, Isailed away from Santa Cruz on February 4 in the afternoon; hastening outall I could, because the north-east winds growing stormy made so greatsea that the ship was scarce safe in the road; and I was glad to get out, though we left behind several goods we had bought and paid for: for aboat could not go ashore; and the stress was so great in weighing anchorthat the cable broke. I designed next for the Island of Mayo, one of theCape Verde Islands; and ran away with a strong north-east wind rightbefore it all that night and the next day, at the rate of 10 or 11 milesan hour; when it slackened to a more moderate gale. The Canary Islandsare, for their latitude, within the usual verge of the true or generaltradewind; which I have observed to be, on this side the equator, north-easterly: but then, lying not far from the African shore, they aremost subject to a north wind, which is the coasting and constant trade, sweeping that coast down as low as to Cape Verde; which, spreading inbreadth, takes in mostly the Canary Islands; though it be thereinterrupted frequently with the true tradewind, north-west winds, orother shifts of wind that islands are subject to; especially where theylie many together. The Pike of Tenerife, which had generally been cloudedwhile we lay at Santa Cruz, appeared now all white with snow, hoveringover the other hills; but their height made it seem the lessconsiderable; for it looks most remarkable to ships that are to thewestward of it. We had brisk north-north-east and north-east winds fromTenerife, and saw flying-fish, and a great deal of sea-thistle weedfloating. By the 9th of February at noon we were in the latitude of 15degrees 4 minutes so we steered away west-north-west for the island ofMayo, being by judgment not far to the east of it, and at 8 o'clock inthe evening lay by till day. The wind was then at west by south, and soit continued all night, fair weather, and a small easy gale. All thesewere great signs, that we were near some land, after having had suchconstant brisk winds before. In the morning after sunrise we saw theisland at about 4 leagues distance. But it was so hazy over it that wecould see but a small part of it; yet even by that part I knew it to bethe isle of Mayo. See how it appeared to us at several views as we werecompassing the east and south-east and south of it, to get to the road, on the south-west of it, and the road itself. THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT MAYO. I got not in till the next day, February 11, when I come to an anchor inthe road, which is the leeward part of the island; for it is a generalrule never to anchor to windward of an island between the tropics. Weanchored at 11 o'clock in 14 fathom clean sand, and very smooth water, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, in the same place where Ianchored in my voyage round the world; and found riding here the Newportof London, a merchantman, Captain Barefoot commander, who welcomed mewith 3 guns and I returned one for thanks. He came from Fayal, one of thewestern islands; and had store of wine and brandy aboard. He was takingin salt to carry to Newfoundland, and was very glad to see one of theKing's ships, being before our coming afraid of pirates, which of lateyears had much infested this and the rest of the Cape Verde Islands. I have given some account of the island of Mayo and of other of theseislands in my Voyage round the World, but I shall now add some furtherobservations that occurred to me in this voyage. The island of Mayo isabout 7 leagues in circumference, of a roundish form, with many smallrocky points shooting out into the sea a mile or more. Its latitude is 15degrees north, and as you sail about the isle, when you come pretty nighthe shore, you will see the water breaking off from those points; whichyou must give a berth to and avoid them. I sailed at this time two partsin three round the island, but saw nothing dangerous besides thesepoints; and they all showed themselves by the breaking of the water: yetit is reported that on the north and north-north-west side there aredangerous shoals that lie farther off at sea; but I was not on that side. There are 2 hills on this island of a considerable height; one prettybluff, the other peaked at top. The rest of the island is pretty leveland of a good height from the sea. The shore clear round hath sandy baysbetween the rocky points I spoke of, and the whole island is a very drysort of soil. OF THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS; ITS SALT POND COMPARED WITH THAT OF SALTTORTUGA; ITS TRADE FOR SALT, AND FRAPE-BOATS. On the west side of the isle where the road for ships is, there is alarge sandy bay and a sandbank of about 40 paces wide within it whichruns along the shore 2 or 3 miles; within which there is a large salinaor salt pond, contained between the sandbank and the hills beyond it. Thewhole salina is about 2 miles in length, and half a mile wide; but aboveone half of it its commonly dry. The north end only of the pond neverwants water, producing salt from November till May, which is here the dryseason of the year. The water which yields this salt works in from out ofthe sea through a hole in the sandbank before mentioned, like a sluice, and that only in spring tides when it fills the pond more or less, according to the height of the tides. If there is any salt in the pondswhen the flush of water comes in it presently dissolves: but then in 2 or3 days after it begins to kern; and so continues kerning till either allor the greatest part of the salt water is congealed or kerned; or till afresh supply of it comes in again from the sea. This water is known tocome in only at that one passage on the north part of the pond; wherealso it is deepest. It was at a spring of the new moon when I was there;and I was told that it comes in at no other time but at the new moonspring tides; but why that should be I can't guess. They who come hitherto lade salt rake it up as it kerns, and lay it in heaps on the dry land, before the water breaks in anew: and this is observable of this saltpond, that the salt kerns only in the dry season, contrary to the saltponds in the West Indies, particularly those of the island Salt Tortuga, which I have formerly mentioned, for they never kern there till the rainscome in about April; and continue to do so in May, June, July etc. Whilethe wet season lasts; and not without some good shower of rain first: butthe reason also of this difference between the salt ponds of Mayo andthose of the West Indies why these should kern in the wet season, and theformer in the dry season, I shall leave to philosophers. Our nation drives here a great trade for salt, and have commonly aman-of-war here for the guard of our ships and barks that come to take itin; of which I have been informed that in some years there have not beenless than 100 in a year. It costs nothing but men's labour to rake ittogether, and wheel it out of the pond, except the carriage: and thatalso is very cheap; the inhabitants having plenty of asses for which theyhave little to do besides carrying the salt from the ponds to the seasideat the season when ships are here. The inhabitants lade and drive theirasses themselves, being very glad to be employed; for they have scarceany other trade but this to get a penny by. The pond is not above half amile from the landing-place, so that the asses make a great many trips ina day. They have a set number of turns to and fro both forenoon andafternoon, which their owners will not exceed. At the landing-place therelies a frape-boat, as our seamen call it, to take in the salt. It is madepurposely for this use, with a deck reaching from the stern a third partof the boat; where there is a kind of bulkhead that rises not from theboat's bottom but from the edge of the deck to about 2 foot in height;all caulked very tight. The use of it is to keep the waves from dashinginto the boat when it lies with its head to the shore to take in salt:for here commonly runs a great sea; and when the boat lies so with itshead to the shore the sea breaks in over the stern, and would soon fillit was it not for this bulkhead, which stops the waves that come flowingupon the deck and makes them run off into the sea on each side. To keepthe boat thus with the head to the shore and the stern to the sea thereare two strong stanchions set up in the boat, the one at the head, theother in the middle of it, against the bulkhead, and a foot higher thanthe bulkhead. There is a large notch cut in the top of each of thesestanchions big enough for a small hawser or rope to lie in; one end ofwhich is fastened to a post ashore, and the other to a grappling oranchor lying a pretty way off at sea: this rope serves to haul the boatin and out, and the stanchions serve to keep her fast, so that she cannotswing to either side when the rope is hauled tight: for the sea wouldelse fill her, or toss her ashore and stave her. The better to preventher staving and to keep her the tighter together there are two sets ofropes more: the first going athwart from gunwale to gunwale, which, whenthe rowers benches are laid, bind the boats sides so hard against theends of the benches that they cannot easily fall asunder, while thebenches and ropes mutually help each other; the ropes keeping the boat'ssides from flying off, and the benches from being crushed togetherinwards. Of these ropes there are usually but two, dividing the boat'slength as they go across the sides into three equal parts. The other setof ropes are more in number, and are so placed as to keep the ribs andplanks of the boat from starting off. For this purpose there are holesmade at certain distances through the edge of the keel that runs along onthe inside of the boat; through which these ropes passing are laid alongthe ribs so as to line them, or be themselves as ribs upon them, beingmade fast to them by rattans brought thither, or small cords twistedclose about both ropes and ribs, up to the gunwale: by which means thoughseveral of the nails or pegs of the boat should by any shock fall out, yet the ropes of these two sets might hold her together: especially withthe help of a rope going quite round about the gunwale on the outside, asour longboats have. And such is the care taken to strengthen the boats;from which girding them with ropes, which our seamen call fraping, theyhave the name of frape-boats. Two men suffice to haul her in and out, andtake in the salt from shore (which is brought in bags) and put it outagain. As soon as the boat is brought nigh enough to the shore he whostands by the bulkhead takes instantly a turn with the hawser about thebulkhead stanchion; and that stops her fast before the sea can turn heraside: and when the two men have got in their lading they haul off to seatill they come a little without the swell; where they remove the saltinto another boat that carries it on board the ship. Without such afrape-boat here is but bad landing at any time: for though it is commonlyvery smooth in the road, yet there falls a great sea on the shore, sothat every ship that comes here should have such a boat, and bring ormake or borrow one of the other ships that happen to be here; for theinhabitants have none. I have been thus particular in the description ofthese frape-boats because of the use they may be of in any places where agreat sea falls in upon the shore: as it does especially in many openroads in the East and West Indies; where they might therefore be veryserviceable; but I never saw any of them there. ITS VEGETABLES, SILK-COTTON, ETC. ITS SOIL, AND TOWNS; ITS GUINEA-HENSAND OTHER FOWLS, BEASTS, AND FISH. OF THE SEA TURTLES, ETC. LAYING IN THEWET SEASON. OF THE NATIVES, THEIR TRADE AND LIVELIHOOD. The island Mayo is generally barren, being dry, as I said; and the bestof it is but a very indifferent soil. The sandy bank that pens in thesalt pond has a sort of silk-cotton growing upon it, and a plant thatruns along upon the ground, branching out like a vine, but with thickbroad leaves. The silk-cotton grows on tender shrubs, 3 or 4 foot high, in cods as big as an apple, but of a long shape; which when ripe open atone end, parting leisurely into 4 quarters; and at the first opening thecotton breaks forth. It may be of use for stuffing of pillows, or thelike, but else is of no value, any more than that of the greatcotton-tree. I took of these cods before that were quite ripe, and laidthem in my chest; and in 2 or 3 days they would open and throw out thecotton. Others I have bound fast with strings, so that the cod could notopen; and in a few days after, as soon as I slackened the string never solittle, the cod would burst and the cotton fly out forcibly at a verylittle hole, just as the pulp out of a roasting apple, till all has beenout of the cod. I met with this sort of cotton afterwards at Timor (whereit was ripe in November) and nowhere else in all my travels; but I foundtwo other sorts of silk-cotton at Brazil, which I shall there describe. The right cotton-shrub grows here also, but not on the sandbank. I sawsome bushes of it near the shore; but the most of it is planted in themiddle of the isle, where the inhabitants live, cotton-cloth being theirchief manufacture; but neither is there any great store of this cotton. There also are some trees within the island, but none to be seen near theseaside; nothing but a few bushes scattering up and down against thesides of the adjacent hills; for as I said before the land is pretty highfrom the sea. The soil is for the most part either a sort of sand, orloose crumbling stone, without any fresh-water ponds or streams tomoisten it, but only showers in the wet season which run off as fast asthey fall, except a small spring in the middle of the isle, from whichproceeds a little stream of water that runs through a valley between thehills. There the inhabitants live in three small towns, having a churchand padre in each town: and these towns, as I was informed, are 6 or 7miles from the road. Pinose is said to be the chief town, and to have 2churches: St. John's the next, and the third Lagoa. The houses are verymean: small, low things. They build with figtree, here being, as I wastold, no other trees fit to build with. The rafters are a sort of wildcane. The fruits of this isle are chiefly figs and watermelons. They havealso callavances (a sort of pulse like French beans) and pumpkins forordinary food. The fowls are flamingos, great curlews, and guinea-hens, which the natives of those islands call galena pintata, or the paintedhen; but in Jamaica, where I have seen also those birds in the drysavannahs and woods (for they love to run about in such places) they arecalled guinea-hens. They seem to be much of the nature of partridges. They are bigger than our hens, have long legs, and will run apace. Theycan fly too but not far, having large heavy bodies and but short wingsand short tails: as I have generally observed that birds have seldom longtails unless such as fly much; in which their tails are usuallyserviceable to their turning about as a rudder to a ship or boat. Thesebirds have thick and strong yet sharp bills, pretty long claws, and shorttails. They feed on the ground, either on worms, which they find bytearing open the earth; or on grasshoppers, which are plentiful here. Thefeathers of these birds are speckled with dark and light grey; the spotsso regular and uniform that they look more beautiful than many birds thatare decked with gayer feathers. Their necks are small and long; theirheads also but little. The cocks have a small rising on their crowns, like a sort of a comb. It is of the colour of a dry walnut shell, andvery hard. They have a small red gill on each side of their heads, likeears, strutting out downwards; but the hens have none. They are so strongthat one cannot hold them; and very hardy. They are very good meat, tender, and sweet; and in some the flesh is extraordinary white; thoughsome others have black flesh: but both sorts are very good. The nativestake them with dogs, running them down whenever they please; for here areabundance of them. You shall see 2 or 300 in a company. I had severalbrought aboard alive, where they throve very well; some of them 16 or 18months; when they began to pine. When they are taken young they willbecome tame like our hens. The flamingos I have already described atlarge. They have also many other sort of fowls, namely pigeons andturtledoves; miniotas, a sort of land-fowls as big as crows, of a greycolour, and good food; crusias, another sort of grey-coloured fowl almostas big as a crow, which are only seen in the night (probably a sort ofowls) and are said to be good for consumptive people but eaten by noneelse. Rabeks, a sort of large grey eatable fowls with long necks andlegs, not unlike herons; and many kinds of small birds. Of land animals here are goats, as I said formerly, and asses good store. When I was here before they were said to have had a great many bulls andcows: but the pirates who have since miserably infested all these islandshave much lessened the number of those; not having spared the inhabitantsthemselves: for at my being there this time the governor of Mayo was butnewly returned from being a prisoner among them, they having taken himaway, and carried him about with them for a year or two. The sea is plentifully stocked with fish of divers sorts, namelydolphins, bonetas, mullet, snapper, silver-fish, garfish, etc. And hereis a good bay to haul a seine or net in. I hauled mine several times, andto good purpose; dragging ashore at one time 6 dozen of great fish, mostof them large mullet of a foot and a half or two foot long. Here are alsoporpoises, and a small sort of whales that commonly visit this road everyday. I have already said that the months of May, June, July and August(that is, the wet season) are the time when the green-turtle come hitherand go ashore to lay their eggs. I look upon it as a thing worth takingnotice of that the turtle should always, both in north and southlatitude, lay their eggs in the wet months. It might be thought, considering what great rains there are then in some places where thesecreatures lay, that their eggs should be spoiled by them. But the rain, though violent, is soon soaked up by the sand wherein the eggs areburied; and perhaps sinks not so deep into it as the eggs are laid: andkeeping down the heat may make the sand hotter below than it was before, like a hot-bed. Whatever the reason may be why Providence determinesthese creatures to this season of laying their eggs, rather than the dry, in fact it is so, as I have constantly observed; and that not only withthe sea-turtle but with all other sorts of amphibious animals that layeggs; as crocodiles, alligators, iguanas etc. The inhabitants of thisisland, even their governor and padres, are all negroes, wool-pated liketheir African neighbours; from whom it is like they are descended;though, being subjects to the Portuguese, they have their religion andlanguage. They are stout, lusty, well-limbed people, both men and women, fat and fleshy; and they and their children as round and plump as littleporpoises; though the island appears so barren to a stranger as scarce tohave food for its inhabitants. I enquired how many people there might beon the isle; and was told by one of the padres that here were 230 soulsin all. The negro governor has his patent from the Portuguese governor ofSt. Jago. He is a very civil and sensible poor man; and they aregenerally a good sort of people. He expects a small present from everycommander that lades salt here; and is glad to be invited aboard theirships. He spends most of his time with the English in the salting season, which is his harvest; and indeed, all the islanders are then fullyemployed in getting somewhat; for they have no vessels of their own totrade with, nor do any Portuguese vessels come hither: scarce any butEnglish, on whom they depend for trade: and though subjects of Portugal, have a particular value for us. We don't pay them for their salt, but forthe labour of themselves and their beasts in lading it: for which we givethem victuals, some money, and old clothes, namely hats, shirts, andother clothes: by which means many of them are indifferently well rigged;but some of them go almost naked. When the turtle season comes in theywatch the sandy bays in the night to turn them; and having small huts atparticular places on the bays to keep them from the rain, and to sleepin: and this is another harvest they have for food; for by report therecome a great many turtle to this and the rest of the Cape Verde Islands. When the turtle season is over they have little to do but to hunt forguinea-hens and manage their small plantations. But by these means theyhave all the year some employment or other; whereby they get asubsistence though but little else. When any of them are desirous to goover to St. Jago they get a licence from the governor and desire passagein any English ship that is going thither: and indeed all ships that ladesalt here will be obliged to touch at St. Jago for water, for here at thebay is none, not so much as for drinking. It is true there is a smallwell of brackish water not half a mile from the landing-place which theasses that carry salt drink at; but it is very bad water. Assesthemselves are a commodity in some of these islands, several of our shipscoming hither purposely to freight with them and carry them to Barbadosand our other plantations. I stayed at Mayo 6 days and got 7 or 8 ton ofsalt aboard for my voyage: in which time there came also into this roadseveral sail of merchants ships for salt; all bound with it forNewfoundland. THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL AT ST. JAGO; PRAYA AND ST. JAGO TOWN. The 19th day of February, at about one o'clock in the morning, I weighedfrom Mayo Road in order to water at St. Jago, which was about 5 or 6leagues to the westward. We coasted along the island St. Jago and passedby the port on the east of it I mentioned formerly which they call Praya;where some English outward-bound East-Indiamen still touch, but not somany of them as heretofore. We saw the fort upon the hill, the houses andcoconut-trees: but I would not go in to anchor here because I expectedbetter water on the south-west of the island at St. Jago Town. By eighto'clock in the morning we saw the ships in that road, being within 3leagues of it: but were forced to keep turning many hours to get in, theflaws of wind coming so uncertain; as they do especially to the leewardof islands that are high land. At length two Portuguese boats came off tohelp tow us in; and about three o'clock in the afternoon we came to ananchor and took the prospect of the town. We found here, besides twoPortuguese ships bound for Brazil whose boats had towed us in, an Englishpink that had taken in asses at one of the Cape Verde Islands and wasbound to Barbados with them. Next morning I went ashore with my officersto the governor, who treated us with sweetmeats: I told him the occasionof my coming was chiefly for water; and that I desired also to take insome refreshments of fowls, etc. He said I was welcome, and that he wouldorder the townsmen to bring their commodities to a certain house, where Imight purchase what I had occasion for: I told him I had not money butwould exchange some of the salt which I brought from Mayo for theircommodities. He replied that salt was indeed an acceptable commodity withthe poor people, but that if I designed to buy any cattle I must givemoney for them. I contented myself with taking in dunghill-fowls: thegovernor ordering a crier to go about the town and give notice to thepeople that they might repair to such a place with fowls and maize forfeeding them where they might get salt in exchange for them: so I sent onboard for salt and ordered some of my men to truck the same for the fowlsand maize while the rest of them were busy in filling of water. This isthe effect of their keeping no boats of their own on the several islands, that they are glad to by even their own salt of foreigners for want ofbeing able to transport it themselves from island to island. St. Jago Town lies on the south-west part of the island in latitude about15 degrees north, and is the seat of the general governor and of thebishop of all the Cape Verde Islands. This town stands scattering againstthe sides of two mountains, between which there is a deep valley, whichis about 200 yards wide against the sea; but within a quarter of a mileit closes up so as not to be 40 yards wide. In the valley by the seathere is a straggling street, houses on each side, and a run of water inthe bottom which empties itself into a fine small cove or sandy bay wherethe sea is commonly very smooth; so that here is good watering and goodlanding at any time; though the road be rocky and bad for ships. Just bythe landing-place there is a small fort, almost level with the sea, whereis always a court of guard kept. On the top of the hill, above the town, there is another fort which, by the wall that is to be seen from theroad, seems to be a large place. They have cannon mounted there, but howmany know not: neither what use that fort can be of except it be forsalutes. The town may consist of 2 or 300 houses, all built of roughstone; having also one convent, and one church. OF THE INHABITANTS AND THEIR COMMODITIES. The people in general are black, or at least of a mixed colour, exceptonly some few of the better sort, namely the governor, the bishop, somegentlemen, and some of the padres; for some of these also are black. Thepeople about Praya are thievish; but these of St. Jago Town, living undertheir governor's eye, are more orderly, though generally poor, havinglittle trade: yet besides chance ships of other nations there come hithera Portuguese ship or two every year, in their way to Brazil. These vendamong them a few European commodities, and take of their principalmanufactures, namely striped cotton cloth which they carry with them toBrazil. Here is also another ship comes hither from Portugal for sugar, their other manufacture, and returns with it directly thither: for it isreported that there are several small sugar-works on this island fromwhich they send home near 100 ton every year; and they have plenty ofcotton growing up in the country wherewith they clothe themselves, andsend also a great deal to Brazil. They have vines of which they make somewine; but the European ships furnish them with better; though they drinkbut little of any. Their chief fruits are (besides plantains inabundance) oranges, lemons, citrons, melons (both musk and watermelons)limes, guavas, pomegranates, quinces, custard-apples, and papaws, etc. OF THE CUSTARD-APPLE, ST. JAGO ROAD. The custard-apple (as we call it) is a fruit as big as a pomegranate, andmuch of the same colour. The outside husk, shell, or rind, is forsubstance and thickness between the shell of a pomegranate, and the peelof a seville orange; softer than this, yet more brittle than that. Thecoat or covering is also remarkable in that it is beset round with smallregular knobs or risings; and the inside of the fruit is full of a whitesoft pulp, sweet and very pleasant, and most resembling a custard of anything, both in colour and taste; from whence probably it is called acustard-apple by our English. It has in the middle a few small blackstones or kernels; but no core, for it is all pulp. The tree that bearsthis fruit is about the bigness of a quince-tree, with long, small, andthick-set branches spread much abroad: at the extremity of here and thereone of which the fruit grows upon a stalk of its own about 9 or 10 incheslong, slender and tough, and hanging down with its own weight. A largetree of this sort does not bear usually above 20 or 30 apples, seldommore. This fruit grows in most countries within the tropics, I have seenof them (though I omitted the description of them before) all over theWest Indies, both continent and islands; as also in Brazil, and in theEast Indies. The papaw too is found in all these countries, though I have not hithertodescribed it. It is a fruit about the bigness of a musk-melon, hollow asthat is, and much resembling it in shape and colour, both outside andinside: only in the middle, instead of flat kernels, which the melonshave, these have a handful of small blackish seeds about the bigness ofpeppercorns; whose taste is also hot on the tongue somewhat like pepper. The fruit itself is sweet, soft and luscious, when ripe; but while greenit is hard and unsavoury: though even then being boiled and eaten withsalt-pork or beef, it serves instead of turnips and is as much esteemed. The papaw-tree is about 10 or 12 foot high. The body near the ground maybe a foot and a half or 2 foot diameter; and it grows up tapering to thetop. It has no branches at all, but only large leaves growing immediatelyupon stalks from the body. The leaves are of a roundish form and jaggedabout the edges, having their stalks or stumps longer or shorter as theygrow near to or further from the top. They begin to spring from out ofthe body of the tree at about 6 or 7 foot height from the ground, thetrunk being bare below: but above that the leaves grow thicker and largerstill towards its top, where they are close and broad. The fruit growsonly among the leaves; and thickest among the thickest of them; insomuchthat towards the top of the tree the papaws spring forth from its body asthick as they can stick one by another. But then lower down where theleaves are thinner the fruit is larger, and of the size I have described:and at the top where they are thick they are but small, and no biggerthan ordinary turnips; yet tasted like the rest. Their chief land animals are their bullocks, which are said to be many;though they ask us 20 dollars apiece for them; they have also horses, asses, and mules, deer, goats, hogs, and black-faced long-tailed monkeys. Of fowls they have cocks and hens, ducks, guinea-hens, both tame andwild, parakeets, parrots, pigeons, turtledoves, herons, hawks, crab-catchers, galdens (a larger sort of crab-catchers) curlews, etc. Their fish is the same as at Mayo and the rest of these islands, and forthe most part these islands have the same beasts and birds also; but someof the isles have pasturage and employment for some particular beastsmore than other; and the birds are encouraged, by woods for shelter, andmaize and fruits for food, to flock to some of the islands (as to this ofSt. Jago) than to others. FOGO. St. Jago Road is one of the worst that I have been in. There is not cleanground enough for above three ships; and those also must lie very neareach other. One even of these must lie close to the shore, with aland-fast there: and that is the best for a small ship. I should not havecome in here if I had not been told that it was a good secure place; butI found it so much otherways that I was in pain to be gone. CaptainBarefoot, who came to an anchor while I was here, in foul ground, lostquickly 2 anchors; and I had lost a small one. The island Fogo showsitself from this road very plain, at about 7 or 8 leagues distance; andin the night we saw the flames of fire issuing from its top. CHAPTER 2. SOUTH OF THE LINE TO BRAZIL. THE AUTHOR'S DELIBERATION ON THE SEQUEL OF HIS VOYAGE AND DEPARTURE FROMST. JAGO. Having despatched my small affairs at the Cape Verde Islands I meditatedon the process of my voyage. I thought it requisite to touch once more ata cultivated place in these seas, where my men might be refreshed, andmight have a market wherein to furnish themselves with necessaries: for, designing that my next stretch should be quite to New Holland, andknowing that after so long a run nothing was to be expected there butfresh water, if I could meet even with that there, I resolved uponputting in first at some port of Brazil, and to provide myself there withwhatever I might have further occasion for. Beside the refreshing andfurnishing my men I aimed also at the inuring them gradually and byintervals to the fatigues that were to be expected in the remainder ofthe voyage, which was to be in a part of the world they were altogetherstrangers to: none of them, except two young men, having ever crossed theLine. HIS COURSE, AND THE WINDS, ETC. IN CROSSING THE LINE. With this design I sailed from St. Jago on the 22nd of February with thewinds at east-north-east and north-east fair weather and a brisk gale. Westeered away south-south-east and south-south-east half east till in thelatitude of 7 degrees 50 minutes we met with many ripplings in the sealike a tide or strong current, which setting against the wind caused sucha rippling. We continued to meet these currents from that latitude tillwe came into the latitude of 3 degrees 22 north when they ceased. Duringthis time we saw some bonetas and sharks; catching one of these. We hadthe true general tradewind blowing fresh at north-east till in thelatitude of 4 degrees 40 minutes north when the wind varied, and we hadsmall gales with some tornados. We were then to the east of St. Jago 4degrees 54 minutes when we got into latitude 3 degrees 2 minutes north(where I said the rippling ceased) and longitude to the east of St. Jago5 degrees 2 minutes we had the wind whiffling between the south by eastand east by north small gales, frequent calms, very black clouds withmuch rain. In the latitude of 3 degrees 8 minutes north and longitudeeast from St. Jago 5 degrees 8 minutes we had the wind from thesouth-south-east to the north-north-east faint, and often interruptedwith calms. While we had calms we had the opportunity of trying thecurrent we had met with hitherto and found that it set north-east by easthalf a knot, which is 12 mile in 24 hours: so that here it ran at therate of half a mile an hour, and had been much stronger before. The rainsheld us by intervals till the latitude of 1 degree 0 minutes north withsmall gales of wind between south-south-east and south-east by east andsometimes calm: afterwards we had the wind between the south andsouth-south-east till we crossed the Line, small winds, calms, and prettyfair weather. We saw but few fish beside porpoises; but of them a greatmany and struck one of them. It was the 10th of March, about the time of the equinox, when we crossedthe equator, having had all along from the latitude of 4 degrees 40minutes north, where the true tradewind left us, a great swell out of thesouth-east and but small uncertain gales, mostly southerly, so that wecrept to the southward but slowly. I kept up against these as well as Icould to the southward, and when we had now and then a flurry of wind ateast I still went away due south, purposely to get to the southward asfast as I could; for while near the Line I expected to have but uncertainwinds, frequent calms, rains, tornados, etc. Which would not only retardmy course but endanger sickness also among my men: especially those whowere ill provided with clothes, or were too lazy to shift themselves whenthey were drenched with the rains. The heat of the weather made themcareless of doing this; but taking a dram of brandy which I gave themwhen wet, with a charge to shift themselves, they would however lie downin their hammocks with their wet clothes; so that when they turned outthey caused an ill smell wherever they came, and their hammocks wouldstink sufficiently that I think the remedying of this is worth the careof commanders that cross the Line; especially when they are, it may be, amonth or more before they get out of the rains, at some times of year, asin June, July or August. HE STANDS AWAY FOR THE BAY OF ALL-SAINTS IN BRAZIL; AND WHY. What I have here said about currents, winds, calms, etc. In this passageis chiefly for the farther illustration of what I have heretoforeobserved in general about these matters, and especially as to crossingthe Line, in my Discourse of the Winds, etc. In the Torrid Zone: whichobservations I have had very much confirmed to me in the course of thisvoyage; and I shall particularise in several of the chief of them as theycome in my way. And indeed I think I may say this of the main of theobservations in that treatise that the clear satisfaction I had aboutthem and how much I might rely upon them was a great ease to my mindduring this vexatious voyage; wherein the ignorance, and obstinacywithal, of some under me, occasioned me a great deal of trouble: thoughthey found all along, and were often forced to acknowledge it, that I wasseldom out in my conjectures when I told them usually beforehand whatwinds, etc. We should meet with at such or such particular places weshould come at. Pernambuco was the port that I designed for at my first setting out fromSt. Jago; it being a place most proper for my purpose, by reason of itssituation, lying near the extremity of Cape St. Augustine, theeasternmost promontory of Brazil; by which means it not only enjoys thegreater benefit of the seabreezes, and is consequently more healthy thanother places to the southward, but is withal less subject to thesoutherly coasting tradewinds that blow half the year on this shore;which were now drawing on, and might be troublesome to me: so that Imight both hope to reach soonest Pernambuco as most directly and nearestin my run; and might thence also more easily get away to the southwardthan from Bahia de todos los Santos or Rio de Janeiro. But notwithstanding these advantages I proposed to myself in going toPernambuco I was soon put by that design through the refractoriness ofsome under me, and the discontents and backwardness of some of my men. For the calms and shiftings of winds which I met with, as I was toexpect, in crossing the Line, made them who were unacquainted with thesematters almost heartless as to the pursuit of the voyage, as thinking weshould never be able to weather Cape St. Augustine: and though I toldthem that by that time we should get to about three degrees south of theLine we should again have a true brisk general tradewind from thenorth-east, that would carry us to what part of Brazil we pleased, yetthey would not believe it till they found it so. This, with some otherunforeseen accidents, not necessary to be mentioned in this place, meeting with the aversion of my men to a long unknown voyage, made mejustly apprehensive of their revolting, and was a great trouble andhindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my measures, andmet with many difficulties, the particulars of which I shall not troublethe reader with: but I mention thus much of it in general for my ownnecessary vindication, in my taking such measures sometimes forprosecuting the voyage as the state of my ship's crew, rather than my ownjudgment and experience, determined me to. The disorders of my ship mademe think at present that Pernambuco would not be so fit a place for me;being told that ships ride there 2 or 3 leagues from the town, under thecommand of no forts; so that whenever I should have been ashore it mighthave been easy for my discontented crew to have cut or slipped theircables and have gone away from me: many of them discovering already anintention to return to England, and some of them declaring openly thatthey would go no further onwards than Brazil. I altered my coursetherefore, and stood away for Bahia de todos los Santos, or the Bay ofAll Saints, where I hoped to have the governor's help, if need shouldrequire, for securing my ship from any such mutinous attempt; beingforced to keep myself all the way upon my guard, and to lie with myofficers, such as I could trust, and with small arms upon thequarter-deck; it scarce being safe for me to lie in my cabin by reason ofthe discontents among my men. HIS ARRIVAL ON THAT COAST AND IN THE BAY. On the 23rd of March we saw the land of Brazil; having had thither, fromthe time when we came into the true tradewind again after crossing theLine, very fair weather and brisk gales, mostly at east-north-east. Theland we saw was about 20 leagues to the north of Bahia; so I coastedalongshore to the southward. This coast is rather low than high, withsandy bays all along by the sea. OF THE SEVERAL FORTS, THE ROAD, SITUATION, TOWN, AND BUILDINGS OF BAHIA. A little within land are many very white spots of sand appearing likesnow; and the coast looks very pleasant, being chequered with woods andsavannahs. The trees in general are not tall; but they are green andflourishing. There are many small houses by the seaside, whoseinhabitants are chiefly fishermen. They come off to sea on bark logs, made of several logs fastened side to side, that have one or two mastswith sails to them. There are two men in each bark log, one at eitherend, having small low benches, raised a little above the logs, to sit andfish on, and two baskets hanging up at the mast or masts; one to puttheir provisions in, the other for their fish. Many of these werea-fishing now, and 2 of them came aboard, of whom I bought some fish. Inthe afternoon we sailed by one very remarkable piece of land where, on asmall pleasant hill, there was a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Seea sight of some parts of this coast and of the hill the church stands on. I coasted along till the evening and then brought to, and lay by till thenext morning. About 2 hours after we were brought to, there came a sailout of the offing (from seaward) and lay by about a mile to windward ofus and so lay all night. In the morning upon speaking with her she provedto be a Portuguese ship bound to Bahia; therefore I sent my boat aboardand desired to have one of his mates to pilot me in: he answered that hehad not a mate capable of it, but that he would sail in before me, andshow me the way; and that if he went into the harbour in the night hewould hang out a light for me. He said we had not far in, and might reachit before night with a tolerable gale; but that with so small an one asnow we had we could not do it: so we jogged on till night and then heaccordingly hung out his light, which we steered after, sounding as wewent in. I kept all my men on deck and had an anchor ready to let go onoccasion. We had the tide of ebb against us, so that we went in butslowly; and it was about the middle of the night when we anchored. Immediately the Portuguese master came aboard to see me, to whom Ireturned thanks for his civilities; and indeed I found much respect, notonly from this gentleman but from all of that nation both here and inother places, who were ready to serve me on all occasions. The place thatwe anchored in was about two miles from the harbour where the shipsgenerally ride; but the fear I had lest my people should run away withthe ship made me hasten to get a licence from the governor to run up intothe harbour and ride among their ships, close by one of their forts. Soon the 25th of March about ten o'clock in the morning, the tide serving, I went thither, being piloted by the superintendent there, whose businessit is to carry up all the King of Portugal's ships that come hither, andto see them well moored. He brought us to an anchor right against thetown, at the outer part of the harbour, which was then full of ships, within 150 yards of a small fort that stands on a rock half a mile fromthe shore. See a prospect of the harbour and the town as it appeared tous while we lay at anchor. Bahia de todos los Santos lies in latitude 13 degrees south. It is themost considerable town in Brazil, whether in respect of the beauty of itsbuildings, its bulk, or its trade and revenue. It has the convenience ofa good harbour that is capable of receiving ships of the greatest burden:the entrance of which is guarded with a strong fort standing without theharbour, called St. Antonio: a sight of which I have given as it appearedto us the afternoon before we came in; and its lights (which they hangout purposely for ships) we saw the same night. There are other smallerforts that command the harbour, one of which stands on a rock in the sea, about half a mile from the shore. Close by this fort all ships must passthat anchor here, and must ride also within half a mile of it at farthestbetween this and another fort (that stands on a point at the inner partof the harbour and is called the Dutch Fort) but must ride nearest to theformer, all along against the town: where there is good holding ground, and less exposed to the southerly winds that blow very hard here. Theycommonly set in about April, but blow hardest in May, June, July andAugust: but the place where the ships ride is exposed to these winds notabove 3 points of the compass. Beside these there is another fort fronting the harbour, and standing onthe hill upon which the town stands. The town itself consists of about2000 houses; the major part of which cannot be seen from the harbour; butso many as appear in sight with a great mixture of trees between them, and all placed on a rising hill, make a very pleasant prospect; as may bejudged by the draught. There are in the town 13 churches, chapels, hospitals, convents, besideone nunnery, namely the ecclesia major or cathedral, the Jesuits'college, which are the chief, and both in sight from the harbour: St. Antonio, St. Barbara, both parish churches; the Franciscans' church, andthe Dominicans'; and 2 convents of Carmelites; a chapel for seamen closeby the seaside, where boats commonly land and the seamen go immediatelyto prayers; another chapel for poor people, at the farther end of thesame street, which runs along by the shore; and a third chapel forsoldiers at the edge of the town remote from the sea; and an hospital inthe middle of the town. The nunnery stands at the outer edge of the townnext the fields, wherein by report there are 70 nuns. Here lives inarchbishop, who has a fine palace in the town; and the governor's palaceis a fair stone building, and looks handsome to the sea, though butindifferently furnished within: both Spaniards and Portuguese in theirplantations abroad, as I have generally observed, affecting to have largehouses; but are little curious about furniture, except pictures some ofthem. The houses of the town are 2 or 3 stories high, the walls thick andstrong, being built with stone, with a covering of pantile; and many ofthem have balconies. The principal streets are large, and all of thempaved or pitched with small stones. There are also parades in the mosteminent places of the town, and many gardens, as well within the town asin the out parts of it, wherein are fruit trees, herbs, saladings andflowers in great variety, but ordered with no great care nor art. OF ITS GOVERNOR, SHIPS AND MERCHANTS; AND COMMODITIES TO AND FROM EUROPE. The governor who resides here is called Don John de Lancastrio, beingdescended, as they say, from our English Lancaster family; and he has arespect for our nation on that account, calling them his countrymen. Iwaited on him several times, and always found him very courteous andcivil. Here are about 400 soldiers in garrison. They commonly draw up andexercise in a large parade before the governor's house; and many of themattend him when he goes abroad. The soldiers are decently clad in brownlinen, which in these hot countries is far better than woollen; but Inever saw any clad in linen but only these. Beside the soldiers in pay, he can soon have some thousands of men up in arms on occasion. Themagazine is on the skirts of the town, on a small rising between thenunnery and the soldiers' church. It is big enough to hold 2 or 3000barrels of powder; but I was told it seldom has more than 100, sometimesbut 80. There are always a band of soldiers to guard it, and sentinelslooking out both day and night. A great many merchants always reside at Bahia; for it is a place of greattrade: I found here above 30 great ships from Europe, with 2 of the Kingof Portugal's ships of war for their convoy; beside 2 ships that tradedto Africa only, either to Angola, Gambia, or other places on the coast ofGuinea; and abundance of small craft that only run to and fro on thiscoast, carrying commodities from one part of Brazil to another. The merchants that live here are said to be rich, and to have many negroslaves in their houses, both of men and women. Themselves are chieflyPortuguese, foreigners having but little commerce with them; yet here wasone Mr. Cock, an English merchant, a very civil gentleman and of goodrepute. He had a patent to be our English consul, but did not care totake upon him any public character because English ships seldom comehither, here having been none in 11 or 12 years before this time. Herewas also a Dane, and a French merchant or two; but all have their effectstransported to and from Europe in Portuguese ships, none of any othernation being admitted to trade hither. There is a custom-house by theseaside, where all goods imported or exported are entered. And to preventabuses there are 5 or 6 boats that take their turns to row about theharbour, searching any boats they suspect to be running of goods. The chief commodities that the European ships bring hither are linencloths, both coarse and fine; some woollens, also as bays, serges, perpetuanas, etc. Hats, stockings, both of silk and thread, biscuit-bread, wheat flour, wine (chiefly port) oil olive, butter, cheese, etc. And salt-beef and pork would there also be good commodities. They bring hither also iron, and all sorts of iron tools; pewter vesselsof all sorts, as dishes, plates, spoons, etc. Looking-glasses, beads, andother toys; and the ships that touch at St. Jago bring thence, as I said, cotton cloth, which is afterwards sent to Angola. The European ships carry from hence sugar, tobacco, either in roll orsnuff, never in leaf, that I know of: these are the staple commodities. Besides which, here are dye-woods, as fustick, etc. With woods for otheruses, as speckled wood, Brazil, etc. They also carry home raw hides, tallow, train-oil of whales, etc. Here are also kept tame monkeys, parrots, parakeets, etc, which the seamen carry home. CLAYING OF SUGAR. The sugar of this country is much better than that which we bring homefrom our plantations: for all the sugar that is made here is clayed, which makes it whiter and finer than our muscovada, as we call ourunrefined sugar. Our planters seldom refine any with clay, unlesssometimes a little to send home as presents for their friends in England. Their way of doing it is by taking some of the whitest clay and mixing itwith water, till it is like cream. With this they fill up the pans ofsugar that are sunk 2 or 3 inches below the brim by the draining of themolasses out of it: first scraping off the thin hard crust of the sugarthat lies at the top, and would hinder the water of the clay from soakingthrough the sugar of the pan. The refining is made by this percolation. For 10 to 12 days time that the clayish liquor lies soaking down the panthe white water whitens the sugar as it passes through it; and the grossbody of the clay itself grows hard on the top, and may be taken off atpleasure; when scraping off with a knife the very upper-part of the sugarwhich will be a little sullied, that which is underneath will be whitealmost to the bottom: and such as is called Brazil sugar is thuswhitened. When I was here this sugar was sold for about 50 shillings per100 pounds. And the bottoms of the pots, which is very coarse sugar, forabout 20 shillings per 100 pounds, both sorts being then scarce; for herewas not enough to lade the ships, and therefore some of them were to liehere till the next season. THE SEASON FOR THE EUROPEAN SHIPS, AND COIR CABLES: OF THEIR GUINEA TRADEAND OF THE COASTING TRADE, AND WHALE KILLING. The European ships commonly arrive here in February or March, and theyhave generally quick passages; finding at that time of the year briskgales to bring them to the Line, little trouble, then, in crossing it, and brisk east-north-east winds afterwards to bring them hither. Theycommonly return from hence about the latter end of May, or in June. Itwas said when I was here that the ships would sail hence the 20th day ofMay; and therefore they were all very busy, some in taking in theirgoods, others in careening and making themselves ready. The ships thatcome hither usually careen at their first coming; here being a hulkbelonging to the king for that purpose. This hulk is under the charge ofthe superintendent I spoke of, who has a certain sum of money for everyship that careens by her. He also provides firing and other necessariesfor that purpose: and the ships do commonly hire of the merchants hereeach 2 cables to moor by all the time they lie here, and so save theirown hempen cables; for these are made of a sort of hair that grows on acertain kind of trees, hanging down from the top of their bodies, and isvery like the black coir in the East Indies, if not the same. Thesecables are strong and lasting: and so much for the European ships. The ships that use the Guinea trade are small vessels in comparison ofthe former. They carry out from hence rum, sugar, the cotton cloths ofSt. Jago, beads, etc. And bring in return gold, ivory, and slaves; makingvery good returns. The small craft that belong to this town are chiefly employed in carryingEuropean goods from Bahia, the centre of the Brazilian trade, to theother places on this coast; bringing back hither sugar, tobacco, etc. They are sailed chiefly with negro slaves; and about Christmas these aremostly employed in whale killing: for about that time of the year a sortof whales, as they call them, are very thick on this coast. They come inalso into the harbours and inland lakes where the seamen go out and killthem. The fat of them is boiled to oil; the lean is eaten by the slavesand poor people: and I was told by one that had frequently eaten of itthat the flesh was very sweet and wholesome. These are said to be butsmall whales; yet here are so many, and so easily killed, that they get agreat deal of money by it. Those that strike them buy their licence forit of the king: and I was informed that he receives 30, 000 dollars perannum for this fishery. All the small vessels that use this coastingtraffic are built here; and so are some men of war also for the king'sservice. There was one a-building when I was here, a ship of 40 or 50guns: and the timber of this country is very good and proper for thispurpose. I was told it was very strong, and more durable than any we havein Europe; and they have enough of it. As for their ships that use theEuropean trade some of them that I saw there were English built, takenfrom us by the French, during the late war, and sold by them to thePortuguese. OF THE INHABITANTS OF BAHIA; THEIR CARRYING IN HAMMOCKS: THEIRARTIFICERS, CRANE FOR GOODS, AND NEGRO SLAVES. Besides merchants and others that trade by sea from this port here areother pretty wealthy men, and several artificers and tradesmen of mostsorts, who by labour and industry maintain themselves very well;especially such as can arrive at the purchase of a negro slave or two. And indeed, excepting people of the lowest degree of all, here are scarceany but what keep slaves in their houses. The richer sort, besides theslaves of both sexes whom they keep for servile uses in their houses, have men slaves who wait on them abroad, for state; either running bytheir horse-sides when they ride out, or to carry them to and fro ontheir shoulders in the town when they make short visits near home. Everygentleman or merchant is provided with things necessary for this sort ofcarriage. The main thing is a pretty large cotton hammock of the WestIndia fashion, but mostly died blue, with large fringes of the same, hanging down on each side. This is carried on the negroes' shoulders bythe help of a bamboo about 12 or 14 foot long, to which the hammock ishung; and a covering comes over the pole, hanging down on each side likea curtain: so that the person so carried cannot be seen unless hepleases; but may either lie down, having pillows for his head; or may situp by being a little supported with these pillows, and by letting bothhis legs hang out over one side of the hammock. When he hath a mind to beseen he puts by his curtain, and salutes everyone of his acquaintancewhom he meets in the streets; for they take a piece of pride in greetingone another from their hammocks, and will hold long conferences thus inthe street: but then their 2 slaves who carry the hammock have each astrong well made staff with a fine iron fork at the upper end, and asharp iron below, like the rest for a musket, which they stick fast inthe ground and let the pole or bamboo of the hammock rest upon them tilltheir master's business or the complement is over. There is scarce a manof any fashion, especially a woman, will pass the streets but so carriedin a hammock. The chief mechanic traders here are smiths, hatters, shoemakers, tanners, sawyers, carpenters, coopers, etc. Here are alsotailors, butchers, etc. , which last kill the bullocks very dexterously, sticking them at one blow with a sharp-pointed knife in the nape of theneck, having first drawn them close to a rail; but they dress them veryslovenly. It being Lent when I came hither there was no buying any fleshtill Easter-eve, when a great number of bullocks were killed at once inthe slaughterhouses within the town, men, women and children flockingthither with great joy to buy, and a multitude of dogs, almost starved, following them; for whom the meat seemed fittest, it was so lean. Allthese tradesmen buy negroes, and train them up to their severalemployments, which is a great help to them; and they having so frequenttrade to Angola, and other parts of Guinea, they have a constant supplyof blacks both for their plantations and town. These slaves are veryuseful in this place for carriage, as porters; for as here is a greattrade by sea and the landing-place is at the foot of a hill, too steepfor drawing with carts, so there is great need of slaves to carry goodsup into the town, especially for the inferior sort; but the merchantshave also the convenience of a great crane that goes with ropes orpulleys, one end of which goes up while the other goes down. The house inwhich this crane is stands on the brow of the hill towards the sea, hanging over the precipice; and there are planks set shelving against thebank from thence to the bottom, against which the goods lean or slide asthey are hoisted up or let down. The negro slaves in this town are sonumerous that they make up the greatest part or bulk of the inhabitants:every house, as I said, having some, both men and women, of them. Many ofthe Portuguese, who are bachelors, keep of these black women for misses, though they know the danger they are in of being poisoned by them, ifever they give them any occasion of jealousy. A gentleman of myacquaintance, who had been familiar with his cookmaid, lay under someapprehensions from her when I was there. These slaves also of either sexwill easily be engaged to do any sort of mischief; even to murder, ifthey are hired to do it, especially in the night; for which reason I keptmy men on board as much as I could; for one of the French king's shipsbeing here had several men murdered by them in the night, as I wascredibly informed. OF THE COUNTRY ABOUT BAHIA, ITS SOIL AND PRODUCT. Having given this account of the town of Bahia I shall next say somewhatof the country. There is a salt-water lake runs 40 leagues, as I wastold, up the country, north-west from the sea, leaving the town and Dutchfort on the starboard side. The country all around about is for the mostpart a pretty flat even ground, not high, nor yet very low: it is wellwatered with rivers, brooks and springs; neither wants it for goodharbours, navigable creeks, and good bays for ships to ride in. The soilin general is good, naturally producing very large trees of divers sorts, and fit for any uses. The savannahs also are loaded with grass, herbs, and many sorts of smaller vegetables; and being cultivated, produceanything that is proper for those hot countries, as sugarcane, cotton, indigo, maize, fruit-trees of several kinds, and eatable roots of allsorts. Of the several kinds of trees that are here I shall give anaccount of some, as I had it partly from an inhabitant of Bahia, andpartly from my knowledge of them otherwise, namely sapiera, vermiatico, comesserie, guitteba, serrie, as they were pronounced to me, three sortsof mangrove, speckled wood, fustick, cotton-trees of 3 sorts, etc. , together with fruit trees of divers sorts that grow wild, beside such asare planted. ITS TIMBER-TREES; THE SAPIERA, VERMIATICO, COMMESSERIE, GUITTEBA, SERRIE, AND MANGROVES. Of timber-trees the sapiera is said to be large and tall; it is very goodtimber, and is made use of in building of houses; so is the vermiatico, atall straight-bodied tree, of which they make plank 2 foot broad; andthey also make canoes with it. Comesserie and guitteba are chiefly usedin building ships; these are as much esteemed here as oaks are inEngland, and they say either sort is harder and more durable than oak. The serrie is a sort of tree much like elm, very durable in water. Hereare also all the three sorts of mangrove trees, namely the red, thewhite, and the black, which I have described. The bark of the redmangrove is here used for tanning of leather, and they have greattan-pits for it. The black mangrove grows larger here than in the WestIndies, and of it they make good plank. The white mangrove is larger andtougher than in the West Indies; of these they make masts and yards forbarks. THE BASTARD-COCO, ITS NUTS AND CABLES; AND THE SILK-COTTON-TREES. There grow here wild or bastard coconut-trees, neither so large nor sotall as the common ones in the East or West Indies. They bear nuts as theothers, but not a quarter so big as the right coconuts. The shell is fullof kernel, without any hollow place or water in it; and the kernel issweet and wholesome, but very hard both for the teeth and for digestion. These nuts are in much esteem for making beads for paternosters, boles oftobacco pipes and other toys: and every small shop here has a great manyof them to sell. At the top of these bastard coco-trees, among thebranches, there grows a sort of long black thread-like horsehair, butmuch longer, which by the Portuguese is called tresabo. Of this they makecables which are very serviceable, strong and lasting; for they will notrot as cables made of hemp, though they lie exposed both to wet and heat. These are the cables which I said they keep in their harbours here, tolet to hire to European ships, and resemble the coir cables. Here are 3 sorts of cotton-trees that bear silk-cotton. One sort is suchas I have formerly described by the name of the cotton-tree. The other 2sorts I never saw anywhere but here. The trees of these latter sorts arebut small in comparison of the former, which are reckoned the biggest inall the West India woods; yet are however of a good bigness and height. One of these last sorts is not so full of branches as the other of them;neither do they produce their fruit the same time of the year: for onesort had its fruit just ripe and was shedding its leaves while the othersort was yet green, and its fruit small and growing, having but newlydone blossoming; the tree being as full of young fruit as an apple-treeordinarily in England. These last yield very large pods, about 6 incheslong and as big as a man's arm. It is ripe in September and October; thenthe pod opens and the cotton bursts out in a great lump as big as a man'shead. They gather these pods before they open; otherwise it would fly allaway. It opens as well after it is gathered; and then they take out thecotton and preserve it to fill pillows and bolsters, for which use it isvery much esteemed: but it is fit for nothing else, being so short thatit cannot be spun. It is of a tawny colour; and the seeds are black, veryround, and as big as a white pea. The other sort is ripe in March orApril. The fruit or pod is like a large apple and very round. The outsideshell is as thick as the top of one's finger. Within this there is a verythin whitish bag or skin which encloses the cotton. When the cotton-appleis ripe the outer thick green shell splits itself into 5 equal parts fromstem to tail and drops off, leaving the cotton hanging upon the stem, only pent up in its fine bag. A day or two afterwards the cotton swellsby the heat of the sun, breaks the bag and bursts out, as big as a man'shead: and then as the wind blows it is by degrees driven away, a littleat a time, out of the bag that still hangs upon the stem, and isscattered about the fields; the bag soon following the cotton, and thestem the bag. Here is also a little of the right West India cotton-shrub:but none of the cotton is exported, nor do they make much cloth of it. THE BRAZILIAN FRUITS, ORANGES, ETC. This country produces great variety of fine fruits, as very good orangesof 3 or 4 sorts (especially one sort of china oranges) limes inabundance, pomegranates, pomecitrons, plantains, bananas, right coconuts, guavas, coco-plums (called here munsheroos) wild grapes, such as I havedescribed, beside such grapes as grow in Europe. Here are also hog-plums, custard-apples, soursops, cashews, papaws (called here mamoons) jennipahs(called here jennipapahs) manchineel-apples and mangoes. Mangoes are yetbut rare here: I saw none of them but in the Jesuits' garden, which has agreat many fine fruits, and some cinnamon-trees. These, both of them, were first brought from the East Indies, and they thrive here very well:so do pumplemouses, brought also from thence; and both china and sevilleoranges are here very plentiful as well as good. OF THE SOURSOPS, CASHEWS AND JENNIPAHS. The soursop (as we call it) is a large fruit as big as a man's head, of along or oval shape, and of a green colour; but one side is yellowish whenripe. The outside rind or coat is pretty thick, and very rough, withsmall sharp knobs; the inside is full of spongy pulp, within which alsoare many black seeds or kernels, in shape and bigness like apumpkin-seed. The pulp is very juicy, of a pleasant taste, and wholesome. You suck the juice out of the pulp, and so spit it out. The tree or shrubthat bears this fruit grows about 10 or 12 foot high, with a small shortbody; the branches growing pretty straight up; for I did never see any ofthem spread abroad. The twigs are slender and tough; and so is the stemof the fruit. This fruit grows also both in the East and West Indies. The cashew is a fruit as big as a pippin, pretty long, and bigger nearthe stem than at the other end, growing tapering. The rind is smooth andthin, of a red and yellow colour. The seed of this fruit grows at the endof it; it is of an olive colour shaped like a bean, and about the samebigness, but not altogether so flat. The tree is as big as an apple-tree, with branches not thick, yet spreading off. The boughs are gross, theleaves broad and round, and in substance pretty thick. This fruit is softand spongy when ripe, and so full of juice that in biting it the juicewill run out on both sides of one's mouth. It is very pleasant, andgratefully rough on the tongue; and is accounted a very wholesome fruit. This grows both in the East and West Indies, where I have seen and eatenof it. The jennipah or jennipapah is a sort of fruit of the calabash or gourdkind. It is about the bigness of a duck-egg, and somewhat of an ovalshape; and is of a grey colour. The shell is not altogether so thick norhard as a calabash: it is full of whitish pulp mixed with small flatseeds; and both pulp and seeds must be taken into the mouth, wheresucking out the pulp you spit out seeds. It is of a sharp and pleasingtaste, and is very innocent. The tree that bears it is much like an ash, straight-bodied, and of a good height; clean from limbs till near thetop, where there branches forth a small head. The rind is of a pale grey, and so is the fruit. We used of this tree to make helves or handles foraxes (for which it is very proper) in the Bay of Campeachy; where I haveseen of them, and nowhere else but here. OF THEIR PECULIAR FRUITS, ARISAHS, MERICASAHS, PETANGOS, PETUMBOS, MUNGAROOS, MUCKISHAWS, INGWAS, OTEES, AND MUSTERAN DE OVAS. Besides these here are many sorts of fruits which I have not met withanywhere but here; as arisahs, mericasahs, petangos, etc. Arisahs are anexcellent fruit, not much bigger than a large cherry; shaped like acatherine-pear, being small at the stem, and swelling bigger towards theend. They are of a greenish colour, and have small seeds as big asmustard seeds; they are somewhat tart, yet pleasant, and very wholesome, and may be eaten by sick people. Mericasahs are an excellent fruit, of which there are 2 sorts; onegrowing on a small tree or shrub, which is counted the best; the othergrowing on a kind of shrub like a vine, which they plant about arbors tomake a shade, having many broad leaves. The fruit is as big as a smallorange, round and green. When they are ripe they are soft and fit to eat;full of white pulp mixed thick with little black seeds, and there is noseparating one from the other till they are in your mouth; when you suckin the white pulp and spit out the stones. They are tart, pleasant, andvery wholesome. Petangos are a small red fruit that grow also on small trees and are asbig as cherries, but not so globular, having one flat side, and also 5 or6 small protuberant ridges. It is a very pleasant tart fruit, and has apretty large flattish stone in the middle. Petumbos are a yellow fruit (growing on a shrub like a vine) bigger thancherries with a pretty large stone. These are sweet, but rough in themouth. Mungaroos are a fruit as big as cherries, red on one side and white onthe other side: they are said to be full of small seeds, which arecommonly swallowed in eating them. Muckishaws are said to be a fruit as big as crab-apples, growing on largetrees. They have also small seeds in the middle and are well tasted. Ingwas are a fruit like the locust-fruit, 4 inches long and one broad. They grow on high trees. Otee is a fruit as big as a large coconut. It hath a husk on the outside, and a large stone within, and is accounted a very fine fruit. Musteran-de-ovas are a round fruit as big as large hazelnuts, coveredwith thin brittle shells of a blackish colour: they have a small stone inthe middle, enclosed within a black pulpy substance, which is of apleasant taste. The outside shell is chewed with the fruit, and spit outwith the stone, when the pulp is sucked from them. The tree that bearsthis fruit is tall, large, and very hard wood. I have not seen any ofthese five last-named fruits, but had them thus described to me by anIrish inhabitant of Bahia; though as to this last I am apt to believe Imay have both seen and eaten of them in Achin in Sumatra. OF THE PALMBERRIES, PHYSICK-NUTS, MENDIBEES, ETC. AND THEIR ROOTS ANDHERBS, ETC. Palm-berries (called here dendees) grow plentifully about Bahia; thelargest are as big as walnuts; they grow in bunches on the top of thebody of the tree, among the roots of the branches or leaves, as allfruits of the palm kind do. These are the same kind of berries or nuts asthose they make the palm-oil with on the coast of guinea, where theyabound: and I was told that they make oil with them here also. Theysometimes roast and eat them; but when I had one roasted to prove it Idid not like it. Physick-nuts, as our seamen called them, are called here pineon; andagnus castus is called here carrepat: these both grow here: so domendibees, a fruit like physick-nuts. They scorch them in a pan over thefire before they eat them. Here are also great plenty of cabbage-trees, and other fruits, which Idid not get information about and which I had not the opportunity ofseeing; because this was not the season, it being our spring, andconsequently their autumn, when their best fruits were gone, though somewere left. However I saw abundance of wild berries in the woods andfields, but I could not learn their names or nature. They have withal good plenty of ground fruit, as callavances, pineapples, pumpkins, watermelons, musk-melons, cucumbers, and roots; as yams, potatoes, cassava, etc. Garden herbs also good store; as cabbages, turnips, onions, leeks, and abundance of other salading, and for the pot. Drugs of several sorts, namely sassafras, snake-root, etc. Beside thewoods I mentioned for dyeing and other uses as fustick, speckled-wood, etc. I brought home with me from hence a good number of plants, dried betweenthe leaves of books; of some of the choicest of which that are notspoiled I may give a specimen at the end of the book. OF THEIR WILDFOWL, MACAWS, PARROTS, ETC. Here are said to be great plenty and variety of wildfowl, namely yemmas, macaws (which are called here jackoos, and are a larger sort of parrot, and scarcer) parrots, parakeets, flamingos, carrion-crows, chattering-crows, cockrecoes, bill-birds finely painted, corresoes, doves, pigeons, jenetees, clocking-hens, crab-catchers, galdens, currecoos, muscovy ducks, common ducks, widgeons, teal, curlews, men-of-war birds, boobies, noddies, pelicans, etc. THE YEMMA, CARRION-CROW AND CHATTERING-CROW, BILL-BIRD, CURRESO, TURTLEDOVE AND WILD PIGEONS; THE JENETEE, The yemma is bigger than a swan, grey-feathered, with a long thicksharp-pointed bill. The carrion-crow and chattering-crows are called here mackeraws, and arelike those I described in the West Indies. The bill of thechattering-crow is black, and the upper bill is round, bending downwardslike a hawk's bill, rising up in a ridge almost semi-circular, and verysharp, both at the ridge or convexity, and at the point or extremity: thelower bill is flat and shuts even with it. I was told by a Portuguesehere that their negro wenches make love potions with these birds. And thePortuguese care not to let them have any of these birds, to keep themfrom that superstition: as I found one afternoon when I was in the fieldswith a padre and another, who shot two of them, and hid them, as theysaid, for that reason. They are not good food, but their bills arereckoned a good antidote against poison. The bill-birds are so called by the English from their monstrous bills, which are as big as their bodies. I saw none of these birds here, but sawseveral of the breasts flayed off and dried for the beauty of them; thefeathers were curiously coloured with red, yellow, and orange-colour. The curresos (called here mackeraws) are such as are in the Bay ofCampeachy. Turtledoves are in great plenty here; and two sorts of wild pigeons; theone sort blackish, the other a light grey: the blackish or dark grey arethe bigger, being as large as our wood-quests, or wood-pigeons inEngland. Both sorts are very good meat; and are in such plenty from Maytill September that a man may shoot 8 or 10 dozen in several shots at onestanding, in a close misty morning, when they come to feed on berriesthat grow in the woods. The jenetee is a bird as big as a lark with black feathers, and yellowlegs and feet. It is accounted very wholesome food. CLOCKING-HEN, CRAB-CATCHER, GALDEN, AND BLACK HERON: THE DUCKS, WIDGEONAND TEAL; AND OSTRICHES TO THE SOUTHWARD, AND OF THE DUNGHILL-FOWLS. Clocking-hens are much like the crab-catchers which I have described, butthe legs are not altogether so long. They keep always in swampy wetplaces, though their claws are like land-fowls' claws. They make a noiseor cluck like our brood-hens, or dunghill-hens, when they have chickens, and for that reason they are called by the English clocking-hens. Thereare many of them in the Bay of Campeachy (though I omitted to speak ofthem there) and elsewhere in the West Indies. There are both here andthere four sorts of these long-legged fowls, near akin to each other asso many sub-species of the same kind; namely crab-catchers, clocking-hens, galdens (which three are in shape and colour like heronsin England, but less; the galden, the biggest of the three, thecrab-catcher the smallest) and a fourth sort which are black, but shapedlike the other, having long legs and short tails; these are about thebigness of crab-catchers, and feed as they do. Currecoos are waterfowls, as big as pretty large chickens, of a bluishcolour, with short legs and tail; they feed also in swampy ground and arevery good meat. I have not seen of them elsewhere. The wild ducks here are said to be of two sorts, the muscovy and thecommon ducks. In the wet season here are abundance of them, but in thedry time but few. Widgeon and teal also are said to be in great plentyhere in the wet season. To the southward of Bahia there are also ostriches in great plenty, though it is said they are not so large as those of Africa: they arefound chiefly in the southern parts of Brazil, especially among the largesavannahs near the river of Plate; and from thence further south towardsthe Straits of Magellan. As for tame fowl at Bahia the chief beside their ducks aredunghill-fowls, of which they have two sorts; one sort much of the sizeof our cocks and hens; the other very large: and the feathers of theselast are a long time coming forth: so that you see them very naked whenhalf grown; but when they are full-grown and well feathered they appearvery large fowls, as indeed they are; neither do they want for price; forthey are sold at Bahia for half-a-crown or three shillings apiece, justas they are brought first to market out of the country, when they are solean as to be scarce fit to eat. OF THEIR CATTLE, HORSES, ETC. The land animals here are horses, black cattle, sheep, goats, rabbits, hogs, leopards, tigers, foxes, monkeys, peccary (a sort of wild hogscalled here pica) armadillo, alligators, iguanas (called quittee)lizards, serpents, toads, frogs, and a sort of amphibious creaturescalled by the Portuguese cachoras-de-agua, in English water-dogs. LEOPARDS AND TIGERS. The leopards and tigers of this country are said to be large and veryfierce: but here on the coast they are either destroyed or driven backtowards the heart of the country; and therefore are seldom found but inthe borders and out-plantations, where they oftentimes do mischief. Hereare three or four sorts of monkeys, of different sizes and colours. Onesort is very large; and another sort is very small: these last are uglyin shape and feature and have a strong scent of musk. OF THEIR SERPENTS; THE RATTLESNAKE, SMALL GREEN SNAKE. AMPHISBAENA, SMALLBLACK AND SMALL GREY SNAKE; THE GREAT LAND-SNAKE, AND THE GREATWATERSNAKE; AND OF THE WATER-DOG. They have here also the amphisbaena, or two-headed snake, of a greycolour, mixed with blackish stripes, whose bite is reckoned to beincurable. It is said to be blind, though it has two small specks in eachhead like eyes: but whether it sees or not I cannot tell. They say itlives like a mole, mostly underground; and that when it is found aboveground it is easily killed, because it moves but slowly: neither is itssight (if it hath any) so good as to discern anyone that comes near tokill it: as few of these creatures fly at a man or hurt him but when hecomes in their way. It is about 14 inches long and about the bigness ofthe inner joint of a man's middle finger; being of one and the samebigness from one end to the other, with a head at each end (as they said;for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut short at one end) and bothalike in shape and bigness; and it is said to move with either headforemost, indifferently; whence it is called by the Portuguesecobra-de-dos-cabesas, the snake with two heads. The small black snake is a very venomous creature. There is also a grey snake, with red and brown spots all over its back. It is as big as a man's arm and about 3 foot long, and is said to bevenomous. I saw one of these. Here are two sorts of very large snakes or serpents: one of them aland-snake, the other a water-snake. The land-snake is of a grey colour, and about 18 or 20 foot long: not very venomous, but ravenous. I waspromised the sight of one of their skins but wanted opportunity. The water-snake is said to be near 30 foot long. These live wholly in thewater, either in large rivers or great lakes, and prey upon any creaturethat comes within their reach, be it man or beast. They draw their preyto them with their tails: for when they see anything on the banks of theriver or lake where they lurk they swing about their tails 10 or 12 footover the bank; and whatever stands within their sweep is snatched withgreat violence into the river, and drowned by them. Nay it is reportedvery credibly that if they see only a shade of any animal at all on thewater, they will flourish their tails to bring in the man or beast whoseshade they see and are oftentimes too successful in it. Wherefore menthat have business near any place where these water-monsters aresuspected to lurk are always provided with a gun, which they often fire, and that scares them away or keeps them quiet. They are said to havegreat heads and strong teeth about 6 inches long. I was told by anIrishman who lived here that his wife's father was very near being takenby one of them, about this time of my first arrival here, when his fatherwas with him up in the country: for the beast flourished his tail forhim, but came not nigh enough by a yard or two; however it scared himsufficiently. The amphibious creatures here which I said are called by the Portuguesecachoras-de-agua or water-dogs, are said to be as big as small mastiffs, and are all hairy and shaggy from head to tail. They have 4 short legs, apretty long head and short tail; and are of a blackish colour. They livein fresh-water ponds and oftentimes come ashore and sun themselves; butretire to the water if assaulted. They are eaten and said to be goodfood. Several of these creatures which I have now spoken of I have notseen, but informed myself about them while I was here at Bahia, fromsober and sensible persons among the inhabitants, among whom I met withsome that could speak English. OF THEIR SEA-FISH AND TURTLE; AND OF ST. PAUL'S TOWN. In the sea upon this coast there is great store and diversity of fish, namely jew-fish for which there is a great market at Bahia in Lent:tarpon, mullet, grouper, snook, garfish (called here goolions) gorasses, barramas, coquindas, cavallies, cachoras (or dogfish) conger eels, herring (as I was told) the serrew, the olio-de-boy (I write and spellthem just as they were named to me) whales, etc. Here is also shellfish (though in less plenty about Bahia than on otherparts of the coast) namely lobsters, crawfish, shrimps, crabs, oysters ofthe common sort, conches, wilks, cockles, mussels, periwinkles, etc. Hereare three sorts of sea-turtle, namely hawksbill, loggerhead, and green:but none of them are in any esteem, neither Spaniards nor Portugueseloving them: nay they have a great antipathy against them, and would muchrather eat a porpoise, though our English count the green turtle veryextraordinary food. The reason that is commonly given in the West Indiesfor the Spaniards not caring to eat of them is the fear they have lest, being usually foul-bodied and many of them poxed (lying, as they do, sopromiscuously with their negrines and other she-slaves) they should breakout loathsomely like lepers; which this sort of food, it is said, doesmuch incline men to do, searching the body, and driving out any suchgross humours: for which cause many of our English valetudinarians havegone from Jamaica (though there they have also turtle) to the islandCayman, at the laying time, to live wholly upon turtle that then aboundthere; purposely to have their bodies scoured by this food, and theirdistempers driven out; and have been said to have found many of them goodsuccess in it. But this by the way. The hawksbill-turtle on this coast ofBrazil is most sought after of any, for its shell; which by report ofthose I have conversed with at Bahia, is the clearest and best cloudedtortoise-shell in the world. I had some of it shown me which was indeedas good as ever I saw. They get a pretty deal of it in some parts on thiscoast; but it is very dear. Beside this port of Bahia de todos los Santos there are 2 more principalports on Brazil where European ships trade, namely Pernambuco and Rio deJaneiro; and I was told that there go as many ships to each of theseplaces as to Bahia, and 2 men-of-war to each place for their convoys. Ofthe other ports in this country none is of greater note than that of St. Paul's where they gather much gold; but the inhabitants are said to be asort of banditti, or loose people that live under no government: buttheir gold brings them all sorts of commodities that they need, asclothes, arms, ammunition, etc. The town is said to be large and strong. CHAPTER 3. TWO OCEANS AND NEW HOLLAND. THE AUTHOR'S STAY AND BUSINESS AT BAHIA: OF THE WINDS, AND SEASONS OF THEYEAR THERE. My stay here at Bahia was about a month; during which time the viceroy ofGoa came hither from thence in a great ship, said to be richly laden withall sorts of India goods; but she did not break bulk here, being boundhome for Lisbon; only the viceroy intended to refresh his men (of whom hehad lost many, and most of the rest were very sickly, having been 4months in their voyage hither) and so to take in water, and depart forEurope in company with the other Portuguese ships thither bound; who hadorders to be ready to sail by the twentieth of May. He desired me tocarry a letter for him, directed to his successor the new viceroy of Goa;which I did, sending it thither afterwards by Captain Hammond, whom Ifound near the Cape of Good Hope. The refreshing my men and taking inwater was the main also of my business here; beside the having the betteropportunity to compose the disorders among my crew: which, as I havebefore related, were grown to so great a height that they could notwithout great difficulty be appeased: however, finding opportunity duringmy stay in this place to allay in some measure the ferment that had beenraised among my men, I now set myself to provide for the carrying on ofmy voyage with more heart than before, and put all hands to work, inorder to it, as fast as the backwardness of my men would permit; whoshowed continually their unwillingness to proceed farther. Besides, theirheads were generally filled with strange notions of southerly winds thatwere now setting in (and there had been already some flurries of them)which, as they surmised, would hinder any farther attempts of going on tothe southward so long as they should last. The winds begin to shift here in April and September, and the seasons ofthe year (the dry and the wet) alter with them. In April the southerlywinds make their entrance on this coast, bringing in the wet season, withviolent tornados, thunder and lightning, and much rain. In September theother coasting trade at east-north-east comes in and clears the sky, bringing fair weather. This, as to the change of wind, is what I haveobserved, but as to the change of weather accompanying it so exactly hereat Bahia this is a particular exception to what I have experienced in allother places of south latitudes that I have been in between the tropics, or those I have heard of; for there the dry season sets in, in April, andthe wet about October or November, sooner or later (as I have said thatthey are, in south latitudes, the reverse of the seasons, or weather, inthe same months in north latitudes, whereas on this coast of Brazil thewet season comes in in April at the same time that it doth in northlatitudes, and the dry (as I have said here) in September; the rains herenot lasting so far in the year as in other places; for in September theweather is usually so fair that in the latter part of that month theybegin to cut their sugarcane here, as I was told; for I enquiredparticularly about the seasons: though this, as to the season of cuttingof cane, which I was now assured to be in September, agrees not very wellwith that I was formerly told, that in Brazil they cut the cane in July. And so as to what is said a little lower in the same page, that inmanaging their cane they are not confined to the seasons, this ought tohave been expressed only of planting them; for they never cut them but inthe dry season. But to return to the southerly winds, which came in (as I expected theywould) while I was here: these daunted my ship's company very much, though I had told them they were to look for them: but they beingignorant as to what I told them farther, that these were only coastingwinds, sweeping the shore to about 40 or 50 leagues in breadth from it, and imagining that they had blown so all the sea over, between Americaand Africa; and being confirmed in this their opinion by the Portuguesepilots of European ships, with whom several of my officers conversedmuch, and who were themselves as ignorant that these were only coastingtradewinds (themselves going away before them in their return homewardstill they cross the Line, and so having no experience of the breadth ofthem) being thus possessed with a conceit that we could not sail fromhence till September; this made them still the more remiss in theirduties, and very listless to the getting things in a readiness for ourdeparture. However I was the more diligent myself to have the shipscrubbed, and to send my water casks ashore to get them trimmed, my beerbeing now out. I went also to the governor to get my water filled; forhere being but one watering-place (and the water running low, now at theend of the dry season) it was always so crowded with the European ships'boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my men could seldom come nighit till the governor very kindly sent an officer to clear thewatering-place for my men, and to stay there till my water-casks were allfull, whom I satisfied for his pains. Here I also got aboard 9 or 10 tonof ballast, and made my boatswain fit the rigging that was amiss: and Ienquired also of my particular officers, whose business it was, whetherthey wanted any stores, especially pitch and tar; for that here I wouldsupply myself before I proceeded any farther; but they said they hadenough, though it did not afterwards prove so. I commonly went ashore every day, either upon business, or to recreatemyself in the fields, which were very pleasant, and the more for a showerof rain now and then, that ushers in the wet season. Several sorts ofgood fruits were also still remaining, especially oranges, which were insuch plenty that I and all my company stocked ourselves for our voyagewith them, and they did us a great kindness; and we took in also a goodquantity of rum and sugar: but for fowls, they being here lean and dear, I was glad I had stocked myself at St. Jago. But, by the little care myofficers took for fresh provisions, one might conclude they did not thinkof going much farther. Besides I had like to have been embroiled with theclergy here (of the Inquisition, as I suppose) and so my voyage mighthave been hindered. What was said to them of me by some of my companythat went ashore I know not; but I was assured by a merchant there thatif they got me into their clutches (and it seems when I was last ashorethey had narrowly watched me) the governor himself could not release me. Besides I might either be murdered in the streets, as he sent me word, orpoisoned, if I came ashore any more; and therefore he advised me to stayaboard. Indeed I had now no further business ashore but to take leave ofthe governor and therefore took his advice. HIS DEPARTURE FOR NEW HOLLAND. Our stay here was till the 23rd of April. I would have gone before if Icould sooner have fitted myself; but was now earnest to be gone, becausethis harbour lies open to the south and south-south-west, which areraging winds here, and now was the season for them. We had 2 or 3 touchesof them; and one pretty severe, and the ships ride there so near eachother that, if a cable would fail or an anchor start, you are instantlyaboard of one ship or other: and I was more afraid of being disabled hein harbour by these blustering winds than discouraged by them, as mypeople were, from prosecuting the voyage; for at present I even wishedfor a brisk southerly wind, as soon as I should be once well out of theharbour, to set me the sooner into the true general tradewind. The tide of flood being spent, and having a fine land-breeze on the 23rdin the morning, I went away from the anchoring place before it was light;and then lay by till daylight that we might see the better how to go outof the harbour. I had a pilot belonging to Mr. Cock who went out with me, to whom I gave 3 dollars; but I found I could as well have gone outmyself by the soundings I made at coming in. The wind was east by northand fair weather. By 10 o'clock I was got past all danger and then sentaway my pilot. CAPE SALVADOR. At 12 Cape Salvador bore north distant 6 leagues, and we had the windsbetween the east by north and south-east a considerable time, so that wekept along near the shore, commonly in sight of it. The southerly blastshad now left us again; for they come at first in short flurries, andshift to other points (for 10 or 12 days sometimes) before they are quiteset in: and we had uncertain winds, between sea and land-breezes, and thecoasting trade, which was itself unsettled. THE WINDS ON THE BRAZILIAN COAST; AND ABROLHO SHOAL; FISH AND BIRDS: THESHEARWATER BIRD, AND COOKING OF SHARKS. The easterly winds at present made me doubt I should not weather a greatshoal which lies in latitude between 18 and 19 degrees south, and runs agreat way into the sea, directly from the land, easterly. Indeed theweather was fair (and continued so a good while) so that I might thebetter avoid any danger from it: and if the wind came to the southward Iknew I could stretch off to sea; so that I jogged on courageously. The27th of April we saw a small brigantine under the shore plying to thesouthward. We also saw many men-of-war-birds and boobies, and abundanceof albicore-fish. Having still fair weather, small gales, and some calms, I had the opportunity of trying the current, which I found to setsometimes northerly and sometimes southerly: and therefore knew I wasstill within the verge of the tides. Being now in the latitude of theAbrolho Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I sounded, and had waterlessening from 40 to 33 and so to 25 fathom: but then it rose again to33, 35, 37, etc. , all coral rocks. Whilst we were on this shoal (which wecrossed towards the further part of it from land, where it lay deep, andso was not dangerous) we caught a great many fish with hook and line: andby evening amplitude we had 6 degrees 38 minutes east variation. This wasthe 27th of April; we were then in latitude 18 degrees 13 minutes southand east longitude from Cape Salvador 31 minutes. On the 29th, being thenin latitude 18 degrees 39 minutes south, we had small gales from thewest-north-west to the west-south-west often shifting. The 30th we hadthe winds from west to south-south-east, squalls and rain: and we sawsome dolphins and other fish about us. We were now out of sight of landand had been so 4 or 5 days: but the winds now hanging in the south wasan apparent sign that we were still too nigh the shore to receive thetrue general east trade; as the easterly winds we had before showed thatwe were too far off the land to have the benefit of the coasting southtrade: and the faintness of both these winds, and their often shiftingfrom the south-south-west to the south-east with squalls, rain and smallgales, were a confirmation of our being between the verge of the southcoasting trade and that of the true trade; which is here regularlysouth-east. The 3rd of May, being in latitude 20 degrees 00 minutes and meridiandistance west from Cape Salvador 234 miles, the variation was 7 degrees00 minutes. We saw no fowl but shearwaters, as our seamen call them, being a small black fowl that sweep the water as they fly, and are muchin the seas that lie without either of the tropics: they are not eaten. We caught 3 small sharks, each 6 foot 4 inches long; and they were verygood food for us. The next day we caught 3 more sharks of the same size, and we ate them also, esteeming them as good fish, boiled and pressed, and then stewed with vinegar and pepper. EXCESSIVE NUMBER OF BIRDS ABOUT A DEAD WHALE; OF THE PINTADO BIRD, ANDTHE PETREL, ETC. We had nothing of remark from the 3rd of May to the 10th, only now andthen seeing a small whale spouting up the water. We had the wind easterlyand we ran with it to the southward, running in this time from thelatitude of 20 degrees 00 minutes to 29 degrees 5 minutes south, andhaving then 7 degrees 3 minutes east longitude from Cape Salvador; thevariation increasing upon us at present, notwithstanding we went east. Wehad all along a great difference between the morning and eveningamplitudes; usually a degree or two, and sometimes more. We were now inthe true trade, and therefore made good way to the southward to getwithout the verge of the general tradewind into a westerly wind's waythat might carry us towards the Cape of Good Hope. By the 12th of May, being in latitude 31 degrees 10 minutes we began to meet with westerlywinds, which freshened on us, and did not leave us till a little beforewe made the Cape. Sometimes it blew so hard that it put us under afore-course; especially in the night; but in the daytime we had commonlyour main topsail reefed. We met with nothing of moment; only we passed bya dead whale, and saw millions (as I may say) of sea-fowls about thecarcass (and as far round about it as we could see) some feeding, and therest flying about, or sitting on the water, waiting to take their turns. We first discovered the whale by the fowls; for indeed I did never see somany fowls at once in my life before, their numbers being inconceivablygreat: they were of divers sorts, in bigness, shape and colour. Some werealmost as big as geese, of a grey colour, with white breasts, and withsuch bills, wings, and tails. Some were pintado-birds, as big as ducks, and speckled black and white. Some were shearwaters; some petrels; andthere were several sorts of large fowls. We saw of these birds, especially pintado-birds, all the sea over from about 200 leagues distantfrom the coast of Brazil to within much the same distance of New Holland. The pintado is a southern bird, and of that temperate zone; for I neversaw of them much to the northward of 30 degrees south. The pintado-birdis as big as a duck; but appears, as it flies, about the bigness of atame pigeon, having a short tail, but the wings very long, as mostsea-fowls have; especially such as these that fly far from the shore, andseldom come nigh it; for their resting is sitting afloat upon the water;but they lay, I suppose, ashore. There are three sorts of these birds, all of the same make and bigness, and are only different in colour. Thefirst is black all over: the second sort are grey, with white bellies andbreasts. The third sort, which is the true pintado, or painted-bird, iscuriously spotted white and black. Their heads and the tips of theirwings and tails are black for about an inch; and their wings are alsoedged quite round with such a small black list; only within the black onthe tip of their wings there is a white spot seeming as they fly (forthen their spots are best seen) as big as a half-crown. All this is onthe outside of the tails and wings; and, as there is a white spot in theblack tip of the wings, so there is in the middle of the wings which iswhite, a black spot; but this, towards the back of the bird, turnsgradually to a dark grey. The back itself, from the head to the tip ofthe tail, and the edge of the wings next to the back, are all overspotted with fine small, round, white and black spots, as big as a silvertwopence, and as close as they can stick one by another: the belly, thighs, sides, and inner part of the wings, are of a light grey. Thesebirds, of all these sorts, fly many together, never high, but almostsweeping the water. We shot one a while after on the water in a calm, anda water-spaniel we had with us brought it in: I have given a picture ofit, but it was so damaged that the picture doth not show it to advantage;and its spots are best seen when the feathers are spread as it flies. The petrel is a bird not much unlike a swallow, but smaller, and with ashorter tail. It is all over black, except a white spot on the rump. Theyfly sweeping like swallows, and very near the water. They are not sooften seen in fair weather; being foul-weather birds, as our seamen callthem, and presaging a storm when they come about a ship; who for thatreason don't love to see them. In a storm they will hover close under theship's stern in the wake of the ship (as it is called) or the smoothnesswhich the ship's passing has made on the sea; and there as they fly(gently then) they pat the water alternately with their feet as if theywalked upon it; though still upon the wing. And from hence the seamengive them the name of petrels in allusion to St. Peter's walking upon theLake of Gennesareth. We also saw many bunches of seaweeds in the latitude of 39 32 and, byjudgment near, the meridian of the island Tristan d'Acunha: and then wehad about 2 degrees 20 minutes east variation: which was now againdecreasing as we ran to the eastward, till near the meridian ofAscension; where we found little or no variation: but from thence, as weran farther to the east, our variation increased westerly. OF A BIRD THAT SHOWS THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO BE NEAR: OF THESEA-RECKONINGS, AND VARIATIONS: AND A TABLE OF ALL THE VARIATIONSOBSERVED IN THIS VOYAGE. Two days before I made the Cape of Good Hope my variation was 7 degrees58 minutes west. I was then in 43 degrees 27 minutes east longitude fromCape Salvador, being in latitude 35 degrees 30 minutes, this was thefirst of June. The second of June I saw a large black fowl, with awhitish flat bill, fly by us; and took great notice of it, because in theEast India Waggoner, pilot-book, there is mention made of large fowls, asbig as ravens, with white flat bills and black feathers, that fly notabove 30 leagues from the Cape, and are looked on as a sign of one'sbeing near it. My reckoning made me then think myself above 90 leaguesfrom the Cape, according to the longitude which the Cape hath in thecommon sea-charts: so that I was in some doubt whether these were theright fowls spoken of in the Waggoner; or whether those fowls might notfly farther off shore than is there mentioned; or whether, as it proved, I might not be nearer the Cape than I reckoned myself to be; for I found, soon after, that I was not then above 25 or 30 leagues at most from theCape. Whether the fault were in the charts laying down the Cape too muchto the east from Brazil, or were rather in our reckoning, I could nottell: but our reckonings are liable to such uncertainties from steerage, log, currents, half-minute-glasses; and sometimes want of care, as in solong a run cause often a difference of many leagues in the whole account. Most of my men that kept journals imputed it to the half-minute-glasses:and indeed we had not a good glass in the ship beside the half-watch ortwo-hour-glasses. As for our half-minute-glasses we tried them all atseveral times, and we found those that we had used from Brazil as muchtoo short, as others we had used before were too long; which might wellmake great errors in those several reckonings. A ship ought therefore tohave its glasses very exact; and besides, an extraordinary care ought tobe used in heaving the log, for fear of giving too much stray line in amoderate gale; and also to stop quickly in a brisk gale, for when a shipruns 8, 9 or 10 knots, half a knot or a knot is soon run out, and notheeded: but to prevent danger, when a man thinks himself near land, thebest way is to look out betimes, and lie by in the night, for a commandermay err easily himself; beside the errors of those under him, thoughnever so carefully eyed. Another thing that stumbled me here was the variation, which, at thistime, by the last amplitude I had found to be but 7 degrees 58 minuteswest, whereas the variation at the Cape (from which I found myself not 30leagues distant) was then computed, and truly, about 11 degrees or more:and yet a while after this, when I was got 10 leagues to the eastward ofthe Cape, I found the variation but 10 degrees 40 minutes west, whereasit should have been rather more than at the Cape. These things, Iconfess, did puzzle me: neither was I fully satisfied as to the exactnessof the taking the variation at sea: for in a great sea, which we oftenmeet with, the compass will traverse with the motion of the ship; besidesthe ship may and will deviate somewhat in steering, even by the besthelmsmen: and then when you come to take an azimuth there is often somedifference between him that looks at the compass and the man that takesthe altitude height of the sun; and a small error in each, if the errorof both should be one way, will make it wide of any great exactness. Butwhat was most shocking to me, I found that the variation did not alwaysincrease or decrease in proportion to the degrees of longitude east orwest; as I had a notion they might do to a certain number of degrees ofvariation east or west, at such or such particular meridians. But, finding in this voyage that the difference of variation did not bear aregular proportion to the difference of longitude, I was much pleased tosee it thus observed in a scheme shown me after my return home, whereinare represented the several variations in the Atlantic Sea, on both sidesof the equator, and there the line of no variation in that sea is not ameridian line, but goes very oblique, as do those also which show theincrease of variation on each side of it. In that chart there is so largean advance made as well towards the accounting for those seeminglyirregular increases and decreases of variation towards the south-eastcoast of America as towards the fixing a general scheme or system of thevariation everywhere, which would be of such great use in navigation, that I cannot but hope that the ingenious author, Captain Halley, who tohis profound skill in all theories of these kinds, hath added and isadding continually personal experiments, will e'er long oblige the worldwith a fuller discovery of the course of the variation, which hathhitherto been a secret. For my part I profess myself unqualified foroffering at anything of a general scheme; but since matter of fact, andwhatever increases the history of the variation, may be of use towardsthe settling or confirming the theory of it, I shall here once for allinsert a table of all the variations I observed beyond the equator inthis voyage, both in going out and returning back; and what errors theremay be in it I shall leave to be corrected by the observations of others. (A TABLE OF VARIATIONS. ) OCCURRENCES NEAR THE CAPE; AND THE AUTHOR'S PASSING BY IT. But to return from this digression: having fair weather and the windshanging southerly I jogged on to the eastward to make the Cape. On thethird of June we saw a sail to leeward of us, showing English colours. Ibore away to speak with her, and found her to be the Antelope of London, commanded by Captain Hammond, and bound for the Bay of Bengal in theservice of the New-East-India Company. There were many passengers aboard, going to settle there under Sir Edward Littleton, who was going chiefthither: I went aboard and was known by Sir Edward and Mr. Hedges, andkindly received and treated by them and the commander; who had beenafraid of us before, though I had sent one of my officers aboard. Theyhad been in at the Cape, and came from thence the day before, havingstocked themselves with refreshments. They told me that they were byreckoning 60 miles to the west of the Cape. While I was aboard them afine small westerly wind sprang up; therefore I shortened my stay withthem because I did not design to go in to the Cape. When I took leave Iwas presented with half a mutton, 12 cabbages, 12 pumpkins, 6 pound ofbutter, 6 couple of stock-fish, and a quantity of parsnips; sending themsome oatmeal which they wanted. From my first setting out from England I did not design to touch at theCape; and that was one reason why I touched at Brazil, that there I mightrefresh my men and prepare them for a long run to New Holland. We had notyet seen the land, but about 2 in the afternoon we saw the Cape landbearing east at about 16 leagues distance: and, Captain Hammond beingalso bound to double the Cape, we jogged on together this afternoon andthe next day, and had several fair sights of it; which may be seen. OF THE WESTERLY WINDS BEYOND IT: A STORM, AND ITS PRESAGES. To proceed: having still a westerly wind I jogged on in company with theAntelope till Sunday June the 4th, at 4 in the afternoon, when we parted;they steering away for the East Indies and I keeping an east-south-eastcourse, the better to make my way for New Holland: for though New Hollandlies north-easterly from the Cape yet all ships bound towards the coast, or the Straits of Sunda, ought to keep for a while in the same parallel, or in a latitude between 35 and 40, at least a little to the south of theeast, that they may continue in a variable winds way; and not venture toosoon to stand so far to the north as to be within the verge of thetradewind, which will put them by their easterly course. The windincreased upon us; but we had yet sight of the Antelope, and of the landtoo, till Tuesday the 6th June: and then we saw also by us an innumerablecompany of fowls of divers sorts; so that we looked about to see if therewere not another dead whale, but saw none. The night before, the sun set in a black cloud, which appeared just likeland, and the clouds above it were gilded of a dark red colour. And onthe Tuesday, as the sun drew near the horizon, the clouds were gildedvery prettily to the eye, though at the same time my mind dreaded theconsequences of it. When the sun was now not above 2 degrees high itentered into a dark smoky-coloured cloud that lay parallel with thehorizon, from whence presently seemed to issue many dusky blackish beams. The sky was at this time covered with small hard clouds (as we call sucha lie scattering about, not likely to rain) very thick one by another;and such of them as lay next to the bank of clouds at the horizon were ofa pure gold colour to 3 or 4 degrees high above the bank. From these toabout 10 degrees high they were redder and very bright; above them theywere of a darker colour still, to about 60 or 70 degrees high, where theclouds began to be of their common colour. I took the more particularnotice of all this because I have generally observed such coloured cloudsto appear before an approaching storm: and, this being winter here andthe time for bad weather, I expected and provided for a violent blast ofwind by reefing our topsails, and giving a strict charge to my officersto hand them or take them in if the wind should grow stronger. The windwas now at west-north-west a very brisk gale. About 12 o'clock at nightwe had a pale whitish glare in the north-west which was another sign, andintimated the storm be near at hand; and, the wind increasing upon it, wepresently handed our topsails, furled the mainsail, and went away onlywith our foresail. Before 2 in the morning it came on very fierce, and wekept right before wind and sea, the wind still increasing: but the shipwas very governable, and steered incomparably well. At 8 in the morningwe settled our foreyard, lowering it 4 or 5 foot, and we ran veryswiftly; especially when the squalls of rain or hail from a black cloudcame overhead, for then it blew excessive hard. These, though they didnot last long, yet came very thick and fast one after another. The seaalso ran very high; but we running so violently before wind and sea weshipped little or no water; though a little washed into our upper deckports; and with it a scuttle or cuttlefish was cast up on the carriage ofa gun. The wind blew extraordinary hard all Wednesday the 7th of June but abatedof its fierceness before night: yet it continued a brisk gale till aboutthe 16th, and still a moderate one till the 19th day; by which time wehad run about 600 leagues: for the most part of which time the wind wasin some point of the west, namely from the west-north-west to the southby west. It blew hardest when at west or between the west and south-west, but after it veered more southerly the foul weather broke up: this Iobserved at other times also in these seas, that when the storms at westveered to the southward they grew less; and that when the wind came tothe east of the south we had still smaller gales, calms, and fairweather. As for the westerly winds on that side the Cape, we like themnever the worse for being violent, for they drive us the faster to theeastward; and are therefore the only winds coveted by those who sailtowards such parts of the East Indies as lie south of the equator; asTimor, Java, and Sumatra; and by the ships bound for China, or any otherthat are to pass through the Straits of Sunda. Those ships having oncepassed the Cape keep commonly pretty far southerly, on purpose to meetwith these west winds, which in the winter season of these climates theysoon meet with; for then the winds are generally westerly at the Cape, and especially to the southward of it: but in their summer months theyget to the southward of 40 degrees usually ere they meet with thewesterly winds. I was not at this time in a higher latitude than 36degrees 40 minutes, and oftentimes was more northerly, altering mylatitude often as winds and weather required; for in such long runs it isbest to shape one's course according to the winds. And if in steering tothe east we should be obliged to bear a little to the north or south ofit it is no great matter; for it is but sailing 2 or 3 points from thewind when it is either northerly or southerly; and this not only easesthe ship from straining but shortens the way more than if a ship was keptclose on a wind, as some men are fond of doing. THE AUTHOR'S COURSE TO NEW HOLLAND; AND SIGNS OF APPROACHING IT. The 19th of June we were in latitude 34 degrees 17 minutes south andlongitude from the Cape 39 degrees 24 minutes east, and had small galesand calms. The winds were at north-east by east and continued in somepart of the east till the 27th day. When it having been some time atnorth-north-east it came about at north and then to the west of thenorth, and continued in the west-board (between the north-north-west andsouth-south-west) till the 4th of July; in which time we ran 782 miles;then the winds came about again to the east, we reckoning ourselves to bein a meridian 1100 leagues east of the Cape; and, having fair weather, sounded, but had no ground. We met with little of remark in this voyage, besides being accompaniedwith fowls all the way, especially pintado-birds, and seeing now and thena whale: but as we drew nigher the coast of New Holland we saw frequently3 or 4 whales together. When we were about 90 leagues from the land webegan to see seaweeds, all of one sort; and as we drew nigher the shorewe saw them more frequently. At about 30 leagues distance we began to seesome scuttle-bones floating on the water; and drawing still nigher theland we saw greater quantities of them. July 25, being in latitude 26 degrees 14 minutes south and longitude eastfrom the Cape of Good Hope 85 degrees 52 minutes, we saw a large garfishleap 4 times by us, which seemed to be as big as a porpoise. It was nowvery fair weather, and the sea was full of a sort of very small grass ormoss, which as it floated in the water seemed to have been some spawn offish; and there was among it some small fry. The next day the sea wasfull of small round things like pearl, some as big as white peas; theywere very clear and transparent, and upon crushing any of them a drop ofwater would come forth: the skin that contained the water was so thinthat it was but just discernable. Some weeds swam by us so that we didnot doubt but we should quickly see land. On the 27th also some weedsswam by us, and the birds that had flown along with us all the way almostfrom Brazil now left us, except only 2 or 3 shearwaters. On the 28th wesaw many weeds swim by us and some whales, blowing. On the 29th we haddark cloudy weather with much thunder, lightning, and violent rains inthe morning; but in the evening it grew fair. We saw this day ascuttle-bone swim by us, and some of our young men a seal, as it shouldseem by their description of its head. I saw also some bonetas, and someskipjacks, a fish about 8 inches long, broad, and sizable, not muchunlike a roach; which our seamen call so from their leaping about. ANOTHER ABROLHO SHOAL AND STORM, AND THE AUTHOR'S ARRIVAL ON PART OF NEWHOLLAND. The 30th of July, being still nearer the land, we saw abundance ofscuttle-bones and seaweed, more tokens that we were not far from it; andsaw also a sort of fowls, the like of which we had not seen in the wholevoyage, all the other fowls having now left us. These were as big aslapwings; of a grey colour, black about their eyes, with red sharp bills, long wings, their tails long and forked like swallows; and they flewflapping their wings like lapwings. In the afternoon we met with arippling tide or current, or the water of some shoal or overfall; butwere past it before we could sound. The birds last mentioned and thiswere further signs of land. In the evening we had fair weather and asmall gale at west. At 8 o'clock we sounded again; but had no ground. We kept on still to the eastward, with an easy sail looking out sharp:for by the many signs we had I did expect that we were near the land. At12 o'clock in the night I sounded and had 45 fathom, coarse sand andsmall white shells. I presently clapped on a wind and stood to the south, with the wind at west, because I thought we were to the south of a shoalcalled the Abrolhos (an appellative name for shoals as it seems to me)which in a chart I had of that coast is laid down in 27 degrees 28minutes latitude stretching about 7 leagues into the sea. I was the daybefore in 27 degrees 38 minutes by reckoning. And afterwards, steeringeast by south purposely to avoid it, I thought I must have been to thesouth of it: but sounding again at 1 o'clock in the morning August thefirst, we had but 25 fathom, coral rocks; and so found the shoal was tothe south of us. We presently tacked again, and stood to the north, andthen soon deepened our water; for at 2 in the morning we had 26 fathomcoral still: at 3 we had 28 coral ground: at 4 we had 30 fathom, coarsesand, with some coral: at 5 we had 45 fathom, coarse sand and shells;being now off the shoal, as appeared by the sand and shells, and byhaving left the coral. By all this I knew we had fallen into the north ofthe shoal, and that it was laid down wrong in my sea-chart: for I foundit lie in about 27 degrees latitude, and by our run in the next day Ifound that the outward edge of it, which I sounded on, lies 16 leaguesoff shore. When it was day we steered in east-north-east with a finebrisk gale; but did not see the land till 9 in the morning, when we sawit from our topmast-head, and were distant from it about 10 leagues;having then 40 fathom water, and clean sand. About 3 hours after we sawit on our quarter-deck, being by judgment about 6 leagues off, and we hadthen 40 fathom, clean sand. As we ran in this day and the next we tookseveral sights of it, at different bearings and distances; from which itappeared as you see. And here I would note once for all that thelatitudes marked in the draughts, or sights here given, are not thelatitude of the land, but of the ship when the sight was taken. Thismorning, August the first, as we were standing in, we saw several largeseafowls, like our gannets on the coast of England, flying 3 or 4together; and a sort of white seamews, but black about the eyes, and withforked tails. We strove to run in near the shore to seek for a harbour torefresh us after our tedious voyage; having made one continued stretchfrom Brazil hither of about 114 degrees designing from hence also tobegin the discovery I had a mind to make on New Holland and New Guinea. The land was low, and appeared even, and as we drew nearer to it it madewith some red and some white cliffs; these last in latitude 26 10 south, where you will find 54 fathom within 4 miles of the shore. THAT PART DESCRIBED, AND SHARK'S BAY, WHERE HE FIRST ANCHORS. About the latitude of 26 degrees south we saw an opening, and ran in, hoping to find a harbour there: but when we came to its mouth, which wasabout 2 leagues wide, we saw rocks and foul ground within, and thereforestood out again: there we had 20 fathom water within 2 mile of the shore. The land everywhere appeared pretty low, flat and even; but with steepcliffs to the sea; and when we came near it there were no trees, shrubsor grass to be seen. The soundings in the latitude of 26 degrees south, from about 8 or 9 leagues off till you come within a league of the shore, are generally about 40 fathom; differing but little, seldom above 3 or 4fathom. But the lead brings up very different sorts of sand, some coarse, some fine; and of several colours, as yellow, white, grey, brown, bluishand reddish. When I saw there was no harbour here, nor good anchoring, I stood off tosea again, in the evening of the second of August, fearing a storm on alee shore, in a place where there was no shelter, and desiring at leastto have sea-room: for the clouds began to grow thick in the westernboard, and the wind was already there, and began to blow fresh almostupon the shore; which at this place lies along north-north-west andsouth-south-east. By 9 o'clock at night we had got a pretty good offing;but, the wind still increasing, I took in my main topsail, being able tocarry no more sail than two courses and the mizzen. At 2 in the morningAugust 3 it blew very hard, and the sea was much raised; so that I furledall my sails but my mainsail. Though the wind blew so hard we had prettyclear weather till noon: but then the whole sky was blackened with thickclouds, and we had some rain, which would last a quarter of an hour at atime, and then it would blow very fierce while the squalls of rain wereover our heads; but as soon as they were gone the wind was by muchabated, the stress of the storm being over. We sounded several times, buthad no ground till 8 o'clock August the 4th in the evening; and then had60 fathom water, coral ground. At 10 we had 56 fathom fine sand. At 12 wehad 55 fathom, fine sand, of a pale bluish colour. It was now prettymoderate weather; yet I made no sail till morning; but then, the windveering about to the south-west, I made sail and stood to the north: andat 11 o'clock the next day August 5 we saw land again, at about 10leagues distance. This noon we were in latitude 25 degrees 30 minutes, and in the afternoon our cook died, an old man, who had been sick a greatwhile, being infirm before we came out of England. The 6th of August in the morning we saw an opening in the land and we raninto it, and anchored in 7 and a half fathom water, 2 miles from theshore, clean sand. It was somewhat difficult getting in here, by reasonof many shoals we met with: but I sent my boat sounding before me. Themouth of this sound, which I called Shark's Bay, lies in about 25 degreessouth latitude, and our reckoning made its longitude from the Cape ofGood Hope to be about 87 degrees; which is less by 195 leagues than isusually laid down in our common charts, if our reckoning was right andour glasses did not deceive us. As soon as I came to anchor in this bay(of which I have given a plan) I sent my boat ashore to seek for freshwater: but in the evening my men returned, having found none. The nextmorning I went ashore myself, carrying pickaxes and shovels with me, todig for water: and axes to cut wood. We tried in several places for waterbut, finding none after several trials, nor in several miles compass, weleft any farther search for it and, spending the rest of the day incutting wood, we went aboard at night. OF THE LAND THERE, VEGETABLES, BIRDS, ETC. The land is of an indifferent height, so that it may be seen 9 or 10leagues off. It appears at a distance very even; but as you come nigheryou find there are many gentle risings, though none steep nor high. It isall a steep shore against the open sea: but in this bay or sound we werenow in the land is low by the seaside, rising gradually in within theland. The mould is sand by the seaside, producing a large sort ofsamphire, which bears a white flower. Farther in the mould is reddish, asort of sand producing some grass, plants, and shrubs. The grass grows ingreat tufts as big as a bushel, here and there a tuft: being intermixedwith much heath, much of the kind we have growing on our commons inEngland. Of trees or shrubs here are divers sorts; but none above 10 foothigh: their bodies about 3 foot about, and 5 or 6 foot high before youcome to the branches, which are bushy and composed of small twigs therespreading abroad, though thick set, and full of leaves; which were mostlylong and narrow. The colour of the leaves was on one side whitish, and onthe other green; and the bark of the trees was generally of the samecolour with the leaves, of a pale green. Some of these trees weresweet-scented, and reddish within the bark, like the sassafras, butredder. Most of the trees and shrubs had at this time either blossoms orberries on them. The blossoms of the different sort of trees were ofseveral colours, as red, white, yellow, etc. , but mostly blue: and thesegenerally smelt very sweet and fragrant, as did some also of the rest. There were also beside some plants, herbs, and tall flowers, some verysmall flowers, growing on the ground, that were sweet and beautiful, andfor the most part unlike any I had seen elsewhere. A PARTICULAR SORT OF IGUANA: FISH, AND BEAUTIFUL SHELLS; TURTLE, LARGESHARK, AND WATER-SERPENTS. There were but few land-fowls; we saw none but eagles of the larger sortsof birds; but 5 or 6 sorts of small birds. The biggest sort of these werenot bigger than larks; some no bigger than wrens, all singing with greatvariety of fine shrill notes; and we saw some of their nests with youngones in them. The water-fowls are ducks (which had young ones now, thisbeing the beginning of the spring in these parts) curlews, galdens, crab-catchers, cormorants, gulls, pelicans; and some waterfowl, such as Ihave not seen anywhere besides. I have given the pictures of 4 severalbirds on this coast. The land animals that we saw here were only a sort of raccoon, differentfrom those of the West Indies, chiefly as to their legs; for these havevery short forelegs; but go jumping upon them as the others do (and likethem are very good meat) and a sort of iguana, of the same shape and sizewith other iguanas described, but differing from them in 3 remarkableparticulars: for these had a larger and uglier head, and had no tail: andat the rump, instead of the tail there, they had a stump of a tail whichappeared like another head; but not really such, being without mouth oreyes: yet this creature seemed by this means to have a head at each end;and, which may be reckoned a fourth difference, the legs also seemed all4 of them to be forelegs, being all alike in shape and length, andseeming by the joints and bending to be made as if they were to goindifferently either head or tail foremost. They were speckled black andyellow like toads, and had scales or knobs on their backs like those ofcrocodiles, plated onto the skin, or stuck into it, as part of the skin. They are very slow in motion; and when a man comes nigh them they willstand still and hiss, not endeavouring to get away. Their livers are alsospotted black and yellow: and the body when opened has a very unsavourysmell. I did never see such ugly creatures anywhere but here. The iguanasI have observed to be very good meat: and I have often eaten of them withpleasure; but though I have eaten of snakes, crocodiles and alligators, and many creatures that look frightfully enough, and there are but few Ishould have been afraid to eat of if pressed by hunger, yet I think mystomach would scarce have served to venture upon these New Hollandiguanas, both the looks and the smell of them being so offensive. The sea-fish that we saw here (for here was no river, land, or pond offresh water to be seen) are chiefly sharks. There are abundance of themin this particular sound, and I therefore give it the name of Shark'sBay. Here are also skates, thornbacks, and other fish of the ray kind(one sort especially like the sea-devil) and garfish, bonetas, etc. Ofshellfish we got here mussels, periwinkles, limpets, oysters, both of thepearl kind and also eating-oysters, as well the common sort as longoysters; beside cockles, etc. , the shore was lined thick with many othersorts of very strange and beautiful shells, for variety of colour andshape, most finely spotted with red, black, or yellow, etc. , such as Ihave not seen anywhere but at this place. I brought away a great many ofthem; but lost all except a very few, and those not of the best. There are also some green-turtle weighing about 200 pounds. Of these wecaught 2 which the water ebbing had left behind a ledge of rock, whichthey could not creep over. These served all my company 2 days; and theywere indifferent sweet meat. Of the sharks we caught a great many whichour men eat very savourily. Among them we caught one which was 11 footlong. The space between its two eyes was 20 inches, and 18 inches fromone corner of his mouth to the other. Its maw was like a leather sack, very thick, and so tough that a sharp knife could scarce cut it: in whichwe found the head and bones of a hippopotamus; the hairy lips of whichwere still sound and not putrefied, and the jaw was also firm, out ofwhich we plucked a great many teeth, 2 of them 8 inches long and as bigas a man's thumb, small at one end, and a little crooked; the rest notabove half so long. The maw was full of jelly which stank extremely:however I saved for a while the teeth and the shark's jaw: the flesh ofit was divided among my men; and they took care that no waste should bemade of it. It was the 7th of August when we came into Shark's Bay; in which weanchored at three several places, and stayed at the first of them (on thewest side of the bay) till the 11th. During which time we searched about, as I said, for fresh water, digging wells, but to no purpose. However wecut good store of firewood at this first anchoring-place; and my companywere all here very well refreshed with raccoons, turtle, shark, and otherfish, and some fowls; so that we were now all much brisker than when wecame in hither. Yet still I was for standing farther into the bay, partlybecause I had a mind to increase my stock of fresh water, which was beganto be low; and partly for the sake of discovering this part of the coast. I was invited to go further by seeing from this anchoring-place all openbefore me; which therefore I designed to search before I left the bay. Soon the 11th about noon I steered farther in, with an easy sail because wehad but shallow water: we kept therefore good looking-out for fear ofshoals; sometimes shortening, sometimes deepening the water. About 2 inthe afternoon we saw the land ahead that makes the south of the bay, andbefore night we had again shoalings from that shore: and thereforeshortened sail and stood off and on all night under, 2 topsails, continually sounding, having never more than 10 fathom, and seldom lessthan 7. The water deepened and shoaled so very gently that in heaving thelead 5 or 6 times we should scarce have a foot difference. When we cameinto 7 fathom either way we presently went about. From this south part ofthe bay we could not see the land from whence we came in the afternoon:and this land we found to be an island of 3 or 4 leagues long, as is seenin the plan, but it appearing barren I did not strive to go nearer it;and the rather because the winds would not permit us to do it withoutmuch trouble, and at the openings the water was generally shoal. Itherefore made no farther attempts in this south-west and south part ofthe bay, but steered away to eastward to see if there was any land thatway, for as yet we had seen none there. On the 12th in the morning wepassed by the north point of that land and were confirmed in thepersuasion of its being an island by seeing an opening to the east of it, as we had done on the west. Having fair weather, a small gale, and smoothwater, we stood further on in the bay to see what land was on the east ofit. Our soundings at first were 7 fathom, which held so a great while, but at length it decreased to 6. Then we saw the land right ahead that inthe plan makes the east of the bay. We could not come near it with theship, having but shoal water; and it being dangerous lying there, and theland extraordinary low, very unlikely to have fresh water (though it hada few trees on it, seemingly mangroves) and much of it probably coveredat high-water, I stood out again that afternoon, deepening the water, andbefore night anchored in 8 fathom, clean white sand, about the middle ofthe bay. The next day we got up our anchor; and that afternoon came to ananchor once more near 2 islands and a shoal of coral rocks that face thebay. Here I scrubbed my ship; and, finding it very improbable I shouldget anything further here, I made the best of my way out to sea again, sounding all the way: but, finding by the shallowness of the water thatthere was no going out to sea to the east of the two islands that facethe bay, nor between them, I returned to the west entrance, going out bythe same way I came in at, only on the east instead of the west side ofthe small shoal to be seen in the plan; in which channel we had 10, 12, and 13 fathom water, still deepening upon us till we were out at sea. Theday before we came out I sent a boat ashore to the most northerly of the2 islands, which is the least of them, catching many small fish in themeanwhile with hook and line. The boat's crew returning told me that theisle produces nothing but a sort of green, short, hard, prickly grass, affording neither wood nor fresh water; and that a sea broke between the2 islands, a sign that the water was shallow. They saw a large turtle andmany skates and thornbacks, but caught none. THE AUTHOR'S REMOVING TO ANOTHER PART OF NEW HOLLAND: DOLPHINS, WHALES, AND MORE SEA-SERPENTS: AND OF A PASSAGE OR STRAIT SUSPECTED HERE: OF THEVEGETABLES, BIRDS, AND FISH. It was August the 14th when I sailed out of this bay or sound, the mouthof which lies, as I said, in 25 degrees 5 minutes, designing to coastalong to the north-east till I might commodiously put in at some otherpart of New Holland. In passing out we saw 3 water-serpents swimmingabout in the sea, of a yellow colour, spotted with dark brown spots. Theywere each about 4 foot long, and about the bigness of a man's wrist, andwere the first I saw on this coast, which abounds with several sorts ofthem. We had the winds at our first coming out at north and the landlying north-easterly. We plied off and on, getting forward but littletill the next day: when the wind coming at south-south-west and south webegan to coast it along the shore to the northward, keeping at 6 or 7leagues off shore; and sounding often, we had between 40 and 46 fathomwater, brown sand with some white shells. This 15th of August we were inlatitude 24 degrees 41 minutes. On the 16th day at noon we were in 23degrees 22 minutes. The wind coming at east by north we could not keepthe shore aboard, but were forced to go farther off, and lost sight ofthe land. Then sounding we had no ground with 80 fathom line; however thewind shortly after came about again to the southward, and then we joggedon again to the northward and saw many small dolphins and whales, andabundance of scuttle-shells swimming on the sea; and some water-snakesevery day. The 17th we saw the land again, and took a sight of it. The 18th in the afternoon, being 3 or 4 leagues offshore, I saw a shoalpoint, stretching from the land into the sea a league or more. The seabroke high on it; by which I saw plainly there was a shoal there. I stoodfarther off and coasted alongshore to about 7 or 8 leagues distance: andat 12 o'clock at night we sounded, and had but 20 fathom hard sand. Bythis I found I was upon another shoal, and so presently steered off westhalf an hour, and had then 40 fathom. At one in the morning of the 18thday we had 85 fathom: by two we could find no ground; and then I venturedto steer alongshore again, due north, which is two points wide of thecoast (that lies north-north-east) for fear of another shoal. I would notbe too far off from the land, being desirous to search into it wherever Ishould find an opening or any convenience of searching about for water, etc. When we were off the shoal point I mentioned where we had but 20fathom water, we had in the night abundance of whales about the ship, some ahead, others astern, and some on each side blowing and making avery dismal noise; but when we came out again into deeper water they leftus. Indeed the noise that they made by blowing and dashing of the seawith their tails, making it all of a breach and foam, was very dreadfulto us, like the breach of the waves in very shoal water, or among rocks. The shoal these whales were upon had depth of water sufficient, no lessthan 20 fathom, as I said; and it lies in latitude 22 degrees 22 minutes. The shore was generally bold all along; we had met with no shoal at seasince the Abrolho Shoal, when we first fell on the New Holland coast inthe latitude of 28, till yesterday in the afternoon, and this night. Thismorning also when we expected by the chart we had with us to have been 11leagues offshore we were but 4; so that either our charts were faulty, which yet hitherto and afterwards we found true enough as to the lying ofthe coast, or else here was a tide unknown to us that deceived us; thoughwe had found very little of any tide on this coast hitherto. As to ourwinds in the coasting thus far, as we had been within the verge of thegeneral trade (though interrupted by the storm I mentioned) from thelatitude of 28, when we first fell in with the coast: and by that time wewere in the latitude of 25 we had usually the regular tradewind (which ishere south-south-east) when we were at any distance from shore: but wehad often sea and land-breezes, especially when near shore, and when inShark's Bay; and had a particular north-west wind, or storm, that set usin thither. On this 18th of August we coasted with a brisk gale of thetrue tradewind at south-south-east, very fair and clear weather; but, hauling off in the evening to sea, were next morning out of sight ofland; and the land now trending away north-easterly, and we being to thenorthward of it, and the wind also shrinking from the south-south-east tothe east-south-east (that is, from the true tradewind to the seabreeze, as the land now lay) we could not get in with the land again yet awhile, so as to see it, though we trimmed sharp and kept close on a wind. Wewere this 19th day in latitude 21 degrees 42 minutes. The 20th we were inlatitude 19 degrees 37 minutes and kept close on a wind to get sight ofthe land again, but could not yet see it. We had very fair weather, andthough we were so far from the land as to be out of sight of it, yet wehad the sea and land-breezes. In the night we had the land-breeze atsouth-south-east, a small gentle gale; which in the morning aboutsunrising would shift about gradually (and withal increasing in strength)till about noon we should have it at east-south-east, which is the truesea breeze here. Then it would blow a brisk gale, so that we could scarcecarry our topsails double reefed: and it would continue thus till 3 inthe afternoon, when it would decrease again. The weather was fair all thewhile, not a cloud to be seen; but very hazy, especially nigh thehorizon. We sounded several times this 20th day and at first had noground; but had afterwards from 52 to 45 fathom, coarse brown sand, mixedwith small brown and white stones, with dints besides in the tallow. The 21st day also we had small land breezes in the night and seabreezesin the day: and as we saw some seasnakes every day, so this day we saw agreat many, of two different sorts or shapes. One sort was yellow, andabout the bigness of a man's wrist, about 4 foot long, having a flat tailabout 4 fingers broad. The other sort was much smaller and shorter, roundand spotted black and yellow. This day we sounded several times, and had45 fathom sand. We did not make the land till noon, and then saw it firstfrom our topmast-head. It bore south-east by east about 9 leaguesdistance; and it appeared like a cape or head of land. The seabreeze thisday was not so strong as the day before, and it veered out more; so thatwe had a fair wind to run in with to the shore, and at sunset anchored in20 fathom, clean sand, about 5 leagues from the bluff point; which wasnot a cape (as it appeared at a great distance) but the easternmost endof an island, about 5 or 6 leagues in length and 1 in breadth. There were3 or 4 rocky islands about a league from us between us and the bluffpoint; and we saw many other islands both to the east and west of it, asfar as we could see either way from our topmast-head: and all within themto the south there was nothing but islands of a pretty height, that maybe seen 8 or 9 leagues off. By what we saw of them they must have been arange of islands of about 20 leagues in length, stretching fromeast-north-east to west-south-west and, for ought I know, as far as tothose of Shark's Bay; and to a considerable breadth also (for we couldsee 9 or 10 leagues in among them) towards the continent or mainland ofNew Holland, if there be any such thing hereabouts: and, by the greattides I met with a while afterwards, more to the north-east, I had astrong suspicion that here might be a kind of archipelago of islands anda passage possibly to the south of New Holland and New Guinea into thegreat South Sea eastward; which I had thoughts also of attempting in myreturn from New Guinea (had circumstances permitted) and told my officersso: but I would not attempt it at this time because we wanted water andcould not depend upon finding it there. This place is in the latitude of20 degrees 21 minutes, but in the chart that I had of this coast, whichwas Tasman's, it was laid down in 19 degrees 50 minutes, and the shore islaid down as all along joining in one body or continent, with someopenings appearing like rivers; and not like islands, as really they are. See several sights of it, Table 4 Numbers 8, 9, and 10. This place liesmore northerly by 40 minutes than is laid down in Mr. Tasman's chart: andbeside its being made a firm, continued land, only with some openingslike the mouths of rivers, I found the soundings also different from whatthe pricked line of his course shows them, and generally shallower thanhe makes them; which inclines me to think that he came not so near theshore as his line shows, and so had deeper soundings, and could not sowell distinguish the islands. His meridian or difference of longitudefrom Shark's Bay agrees well enough with my account, which is 232leagues, though we differ in latitude. And to confirm my conjecture thatthe line of his course is made too near the shore, at least not far tothe east of this place, the water is there so shallow that he could notcome there so nigh. HE ANCHORS ON A THIRD PART OF NEW HOLLAND, AND DIGS WELLS, BUT BRACKISH. But to proceed: in the night we had a small land-breeze, and in themorning I weighed anchor, designing to run in among the islands, for theyhad large channels between them, of a league wide at least, and some 2 or3 leagues wide. I sent in my boat before to sound, and if they foundshoal water to return again; but if they found water enough to go ashoreon one of the islands and stay till the ship came in: where they might inthe meantime search for water. So we followed after with the ship, sounding as we went in, and had 20 fathom, till within 2 leagues of thebluff head, and then we had shoal water, and very uncertain soundings:yet we ran in still with an easy sail, sounding and looking out well, forthis was dangerous work. When we came abreast of the bluff head, andabout 2 mile from it, we had but 7 fathom: then we edged away from it, but had no more water; and, running in a little farther, we had but 4fathoms; so we anchored immediately; and yet when we had veered out athird of a cable we had 7 fathom water again; so uncertain was the water. My boat came immediately aboard, and told me that the island was veryrocky and dry, and they had little hopes of finding water there. I sentthem to sound, and bade them, if they found a channel of 8 or 10 fathomwater to keep on, and we would follow with the ship. We were now about 4leagues within the outer small rocky islands, but still could see nothingbut islands within us; some 5 or 6 leagues long, others not above a mileround. The large islands were pretty high; but all appeared dry andmostly rocky and barren. The rocks looked of a rusty yellow colour, andtherefore I despaired of getting water on any of them; but was in somehopes of finding a channel to run in beyond all these islands, could Ihave spent time here, and either get to the main of New Holland, or findout some other islands that might afford us water and other refreshments;besides, that among so many islands we might have found some sort of richmineral or ambergris, it being a good latitude for both these. But we hadnot sailed above a league farther before our water grew shoaler again, and then we anchored in 6 fathom hard sand. We were now on the inner side of the island, on whose outside is thebluff point. We rode a league from the island and I presently wentashore, and carried shovels to dig for water, but found none. There growhere 2 or three sorts of shrubs, one just like rosemary; and therefore Icalled this Rosemary Island. It grew in great plenty here, but had nosmell. Some of the other shrubs had blue and yellow flowers; and we found2 sorts of grain like beans: the one grew on bushes; the other on a sortof creeping vine that runs along on the ground, having very thick broadleaves and the blossom like a bean blossom, but much larger, and of adeep red colour, looking very beautiful. We saw here some cormorants, gulls, crab-catchers, etc. , a few small land-birds, and a sort of whiteparrot, which flew a great many together. We found some shellfish, namelylimpets, periwinkles, and abundance of small oysters, growing on therocks, which were very sweet. In the sea we saw some green-turtle, apretty many sharks, and abundance of water-snakes of several sorts andsizes. The stones were all of rusty colour, and ponderous. We saw a smoke on an island 3 or 4 leagues off; and here also the busheshad been burned, but we found no other sign of inhabitants: it wasprobable that on the island where the smoke was there were inhabitants, and fresh water for them. In the evening I went aboard, and consultedwith my officers whether it was best to send thither, or to search amongany other of these islands with my boat; or else go from hence, and coastalongshore with the ship till we could find some better place than thiswas to ride in, where we had shoal water and lay exposed to winds andtides. They all agreed to go from hence; so I gave orders to weigh in themorning as soon as it should be light, and to get out with theland-breeze. According, August the 23rd, at 5 in the morning we ran out, having apretty fresh land-breeze at south-south-east. By 8 o'clock we were gotout, and very seasonably; for before 9 the seabreeze came on us verystrong, and increasing, we took in our topsails and stood off under 2courses and a mizzen, this being as much sail as we could carry. The skywas clear, there being not one cloud to be seen; but the horizon appearedvery hazy, and the sun at setting the night before, and this morning atrising, appeared very red. The wind continued very strong till 12, thenit began to abate: I have seldom met with a stronger breeze. These strongseabreezes lasted thus in their turns 3 or 4 days. They sprang up withthe sunrise; by 9 o'clock they were very strong, and so continued tillnoon, when they began to abate; and by sunset there was little wind, or acalm till the land-breezes came; which we should certainly have in themorning about 1 or 2 o'clock. The land-breezes were between thesouth-south-west and south-south-east. The seabreezes between theeast-north-east and north-north-east. In the night while calm we fishedwith hook and line and caught good store of fish, namely, snapper, bream, old-wives, and dogfish. When these last came we seldom caught any others;for if they did not drive away the other fish, yet they would be sure tokeep them from taking our hooks, for they would first have themthemselves, biting very greedily. We caught also a monkfish, of which Ibrought home the picture. See Fish Figure 1. On the 25th of August we still coasted alongshore, that we might thebetter see any opening; kept sounding, and had about 20 fathom cleansand. The 26th day, being about 4 leagues offshore, the water begangradually to shoal from 20 to 14 fathom. I was edging in a little towardsthe land, thinking to have anchored; but presently after the waterdecreased almost at once, till we had but 5 fathom. I durst thereforeadventure no farther, but steered out the same way that we came in; andin a short time had 10 fathom (being then about 4 leagues and a half fromthe shore) and even soundings. I steered away east-north-east coastingalong as the land lies. This day the seabreezes began to be very moderateagain, and we made the best of our way alongshore, only in the nightedging off a little for fear of shoals. Ever since we left Shark's Bay wehad fair clear weather, and so for a great while still. The 27th day we had 20 fathom water all night, yet we could not see landtill 1 in the afternoon from our topmast-head. By 3 we could just discernland from our quarter-deck; we had then 16 fathom. The wind was at northand we steered east by north, which is but one point in on the land; yetwe decreased our water very fast; for at 4 we had but 9 fathom; the nextcast but 7, which frighted us; and we then tacked instantly and stoodoff: but in a short time the wind coming at north-west andwest-north-west we tacked again, and steered north-north-east and thendeepened our water again, and had all night from 15 to 20 fathom. The 28th day we had between 20 and 40 fathom. We saw no land this day butsaw a great many snakes and some whales. We saw also some boobies andnoddy-birds; and in the night caught one of these last. It was of anothershape and colour than any I had seen before. It had a small long bill, asall of them have, flat feet like ducks' feet; its tail forked like aswallow, but longer and broader, and the fork deeper than that of theswallow, with very long wings; the top or crown of the head of this noddywas coal-black, having also small black streaks round about and close tothe eyes; and round these streaks on each side a pretty broad whitecircle. The breast, belly, and underpart of the wings of this noddy werewhite; and the back and upper part of its wings of a faint black or smokecolour. See a picture of this and of the common one, Birds Figures 5 and6. Noddies are seen in most places between the tropics, as well in theEast Indies, and on the coast of Brazil, as in the West Indies. They restashore a-nights, and therefore we never see them far at sea, not above 20or 30 leagues, unless driven off in a storm. When they come about a shipthey commonly perch in the night, and will sit still till they are takenby the seamen. They build on cliffs against the sea, or rocks, as I havesaid. OF THE INHABITANTS THERE, AND GREAT TIDES, THE VEGETABLES AND ANIMALS, ETC. The 30th day being in latitude 18 degrees 21 minutes we made the landagain, and saw many great smokes near the shore; and having fair weatherand moderate breezes I steered in towards it. At 4 in the afternoon Ianchored in 8 fathom water, clear sand, about 3 leagues and a half fromthe shore. I presently sent my boat to sound nearer in, and they found 10fathom about a mile farther in; and from thence still farther in thewater decreased gradually to 9, 8, 7, and 2 mile distance to 6 fathom. This evening we saw an eclipse of the moon, but it was abating before themoon appeared to us; for the horizon was very hazy, so that we could notsee the moon till she had been half an hour above the horizon: and at 2hours, 22 minutes after sunset, by the reckoning of our glasses, theeclipse was quite gone, which was not of many digits. The moon's centrewas then 33 degrees 40 minutes high. The 31st of August betimes in the morning I went ashore with 10 or 11 mento search for water. We went armed with muskets and cutlasses for ourdefence, expecting to see people there; and carried also shovels andpickaxes to dig wells. When we came near the shore we saw 3 tall blacknaked men on the sandy bay ahead of us: but as we rowed in they wentaway. When we were landed I sent the boat with two men in her to lie alittle from the shore at an anchor, to prevent being seized; while therest of us went after the 3 black men, who were now got on the top of asmall hill about a quarter of a mile from us, with 8 or 9 men more intheir company. They seeing us coming ran away. When we came on the top ofthe hill where they first stood we saw a plain savannah, about half amile from us, farther in from the sea. There were several things likehaycocks standing in the savannah; which at a distance we thought werehouses, looking just like the Hottentots' houses at the Cape of GoodHope: but we found them to be so many rocks. We searched about these forwater, but could find none, nor any houses, nor people, for they were allgone. Then we turned again to the place where we landed, and there we dugfor water. While we were at work there came nine or 10 of the natives to a smallhill a little way from us, and stood there menacing and threatening ofus, and making a great noise. At last one of them came towards us, andthe rest followed at a distance. I went out to meet him, and came within50 yards of him, making to him all the signs of peace and friendship Icould; but then he ran away, neither would they any of them stay for usto come nigh them; for we tried two or three times. At last I took twomen with me, and went in the afternoon along by the seaside, purposely tocatch one of them, if I could, of whom I might learn where they got theirfresh water. There were 10 or 12 natives a little way off, who seeing usthree going away from the rest of our men, followed us at a distance. Ithought they would follow us: but there being for a while a sandbankbetween us and them, that they could not then see us, we made a halt, andhid ourselves in a bending of the sandbank. They knew we must bethereabouts, and being 3 or 4 times our number, thought to seize us. Sothey dispersed themselves, some going to the seashore and others beatingabout the sandhills. We knew by what rencounter we had had with them inthe morning that we could easily outrun them; so a nimble young man thatwas with me, seeing some of them near, ran towards them; and they forsome time ran away before him. But he soon overtaking them, they facedabout and fought him. He had a cutlass, and they had wooden lances; withwhich, being many of them, they were too hard for him. When he first rantowards them I chased two more that were by the shore; but fearing how itmight be with my young man, I turned back quickly, and went up to the topof a sandhill, whence I saw him near me, closely engaged with them. Upontheir seeing me, one of them threw a lance at me, that narrowly missedme. I discharged my gun to scare them but avoided shooting any of them;till finding the young man in great danger from them, and myself in some;and that though the gun had a little frighted them at first, yet they hadsoon learnt to despise it, tossing up their hands, and crying pooh, pooh, pooh; and coming on afresh with a great noise, I thought it high time tocharge again, and shoot one of them, which I did. The rest, seeing himfall, made a stand again; and my young man took the opportunity todisengage himself, and come off to me; my other man also was with me, whohad done nothing all this while, having come out unarmed; and I returnedback with my men, designing to attempt the natives no farther, being verysorry for what had happened already. They took up their woundedcompanion; and my young man, who had been struck through the cheek by oneof their lances, was afraid it had been poisoned: but I did not thinkthat likely. His wound was very painful to him, being made with a bluntweapon: but he soon recovered of it. Among the New Hollanders whom we were thus engaged with, there was onewho by his appearance and carriage, as well in the morning as thisafternoon, seemed to be the chief of them, and a kind of prince orcaptain among them. He was a young brisk man, not very tall, nor sopersonable as some of the rest, though more active and courageous: he waspainted (which none of the rest were at all) with a circle of white pasteor pigment (a sort of lime, as we thought) about his eyes, and a whitestreak down his nose from his forehead to the tip of it. And his breastand some part of his arms were also made white with the same paint; notfor beauty or ornament, one would think, but as some wild Indian warriorsare said to do, he seemed thereby to design the looking more terrible;this his painting adding very much to his natural deformity; for they allof them have the most unpleasant looks and the worst features of anypeople that ever I saw, though I have seen great variety of savages. These New Hollanders were probably the same sort of people as those I metwith on this coast in my Voyage round the World; for the place I thentouched at was not above 40 or 50 leagues to the north-east of this: andthese were much the same blinking creatures (here being also abundance ofthe same kind of flesh-flies teasing them) and with the same black skins, and hair frizzled, tall and thin, etc. , as those were: but we had not theopportunity to see whether these, as the former, wanted two of theirforeteeth. We saw a great many places where they had made fires; and where therewere commonly 3 or 4 boughs stuck up to windward of them; for the wind(which is the seabreeze) in the daytime blows always one way with them;and the land breeze is but small. By their fireplaces we should alwaysfind great heaps of fish-shells, of several sorts; and it is probablethat these poor creatures here lived chiefly on the shellfish, as those Ibefore described did on small fish, which they caught in wires or holesin the sand at low-water. These gathered their shellfish on the rocks atlow-water; but had no wires (that we saw) whereby to get any other sortsof fish: as among the former I saw not any heaps of shells as here, though I know they also gathered some shellfish. The lances also of thosewere such as these had; however they being upon an island, with theirwomen and children, and all in our power, they did not there use themagainst us, as here on the continent, where we saw none but some of themen under head, who come out purposely to observe us. We saw no houses ateither place; and I believe they have none, since the former people onthe island had none, though they had all their families with them. Upon returning to my men I saw that though they had dug 8 or 9 foot deepyet found no water. So I returned aboard that evening, and the next daybeing September 1st I sent my boatswain ashore to dig deeper, and sentthe seine with him to catch fish. While I stayed aboard I observed theflowing of the tide, which runs very swift here, so that our nun-buoywould not bear above the water to be seen. It flows here (as on that partof New Holland I described formerly) about 5 fathom: and here the floodruns south-east by south till the last quarter; then it sets right intowards the shore (which lies here south-south-west and north-north-east)and the ebb runs north-west by north. When the tides slackened we fishedwith hook and line, as we had already done in several places on thiscoast; on which in this voyage hitherto we had found but little tides:but by the height and strength and course of them hereabouts it shouldseem that if there be such a passage or strait going through eastward tothe great South Sea, as I said one might suspect, one would expect tofind the mouth of it somewhere between this place and Rosemary Island, which was the part of New Holland I came last from. Next morning my men came aboard and brought a rundlet of brackish waterwhich they got out of another well that they dug in a place a mile off, and about half as far from the shore; but this water was not fit todrink. However we all concluded that it would serve to boil our oatmeal, for burgoo, whereby we might save the remains of our other water fordrinking, till we should get more; and accordingly the next day webrought aboard 4 hogsheads of it: but while we were at work about thewell we were sadly pestered with the flies, which were more troublesometo us than the sun, though it shone clear and strong upon us all thewhile, very hot. All this while we saw no more of the natives, but sawsome of the smokes of some of their fires at 2 or 3 miles distance. The land hereabouts was much like the part of New Holland that I formerlydescribed, it is low but seemingly barricaded with a long chain ofsandhills to the sea, that lets nothing be seen of what is farther withinland. At high water, the tides rising so high as they do, the coast showsvery low; but when it is low water it seems to be of an indifferentheight. At low-watermark the shore is all rocky, so that then there is nolanding with a boat: but at high water a boat may come in over thoserocks to the sandy bay which runs all along on this coast. The land bythe sea for about 5 or 600 yards is a dry sandy soil, bearing only shrubsand bushes of divers sorts. Some of these had them at this time of theyear, yellow flowers or blossoms, some blue, and some white; most of themof a very fragrant smell. Some had fruit like peascods; in each of whichthere were just ten small peas; I opened many of them, and found no morenor less. There are also here some of that sort of bean which I saw atRosemary Island: and another sort of small, red, hard pulse, growing incods also, with little black eyes like beans. I know not their names, buthave seen them used often in the East Indies for weighing gold; and theymake the same use of them at Guinea, as I have heard, where the womenalso make bracelets with them to wear about their arms. These grow onbushes; but here are also a fruit like beans growing on a creeping sortof shrub-like vine. There was great plenty of all these sorts ofcod-fruit growing on the sandhills by the seaside, some of them green, some ripe, and some fallen on the ground: but I could not perceive thatany of them had been gathered by the natives; and might not probably bewholesome food. The land farther in, that is lower than what borders on the sea, was somuch as we saw of it very plain and even; partly savannahs, and partlywoodland. The savannahs bear a sort of thin coarse grass. The mould isalso a coarser sand than that by the seaside, and in some places it isclay. Here are a great many rocks in the large savannah we were in, whichare 5 or 6 foot high, and round at top like a haycock, very remarkable;some red, and some white. The woodland lies farther in still; where therewere divers sorts of small trees, scarce any three foot in circumference;their bodies 12 or 14 foot high, with a head of small knibs or boughs. Bythe sides of the creeks, especially nigh the sea, there grow a few smallblack mangrove-trees. There are but few land animals. I saw some lizards; and my men saw two orthree beasts like hungry wolves, lean like so many skeletons, beingnothing but skin and bones: it is probable that it was the foot of one ofthose beasts that I mentioned as seen by us in New Holland. We saw araccoon or two, and one small speckled snake. The land-fowls that we saw here were crows (just such as ours in England)small hawks, and kites; a few of each sort: but here are plenty of smallturtledoves that are plump, fat and very good meat. Here are 2 or 3 sortsof smaller birds, some as big as larks, some less; but not many of eithersort. The sea-fowl are pelicans, boobies, noddies, curlews, sea-pies, etc. , and but few of these neither. The sea is plentifully stocked with the largest whales that I ever saw;but not to compare with the vast ones of the northern seas. We saw also agreat many green-turtle, but caught none; here being no place to set aturtle-net in; here being no channel for them, and the tides running sostrong. We saw some sharks, and paracoots; and with hooks and lines wecaught some rock-fish and old-wives. Of shellfish, here were oysters bothof the common kind for eating, and of the pearl kind: and also wilks, conches, mussels, limpets, periwinkles, etc. , and I gathered a fewstrange shells; chiefly a sort not large, and thick-set all about withrays or spikes growing in rows. And thus having ranged about a considerable time upon this coast withoutfinding any good fresh water, or any convenient place to clean the ship, as I had hoped for: and it being moreover the height of the dry season, and my men growing scorbutic for want of refreshments, so that I hadlittle encouragement to search further, I resolved to leave this coastand accordingly in the beginning of September set sail towards Timor. ... AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL PLANTS COLLECTED IN BRAZIL, NEW HOLLAND, TIMOR, ANDNEW GUINEA, REFERRING TO THE FIGURES ENGRAVEN ON THE COPPER PLATES. Table 1 Figure 1. Cotton-flower from Bahia in Brazil. The flower consistsof a great many filaments, almost as small as hairs, betwixt three andfour inches long, of a murrey-colour; on the top of them stand smallash-coloured apices. The pedicule of the flower is enclosed at the bottomwith 5 narrow stiff leaves, about 6 inches long. There is one of thisgenus in Mr. Ray's Supplement, which agrees exactly with this in everyrespect, only that is twice larger at the least. It was sent from Surinamby the name of momoo. Table 1 Figure 2. Jasminum Brasilanum luteum, mali limoniae folionervoso, petalis crassis. Table 1 Figure 3. Crista Pavonis Brasiliana Bardanae foliis. The leavesare very tender and like the top leaves of Bardana major, both as toshape and texture: in the figure they are represented too stiff and toomuch serrated. Table 1 Figure 4. Filix Brasiliana Osmundae minori serrato folio. Thisfern is of that kind which bears its seed vessels in lines on the edge ofthe leaves. Table 2 Figure 1. Rapuntium Novae Hollandiae, flore magno coccineo. Theperianthium composed of five long-pointed parts, the form of the seedvessel and the smallness of the seeds, together with the irregular shapeof the flower and thinness of the leaves, argue this plant to be aRapuntium. Table 2 Figure 2. Fucus foliis capillaceis brevissimis, vesiculis minimisdonatis. This elegant fucus is of the Erica Marina or Sargazo kind, buthas much finer parts than that. It was collected on this coast of NewHolland. Table 2 Figure 3. Ricinoides Novae Hollandiae anguloso crasso folio. Thisplant is shrubby, has thick woolly leaves, especially on the underside. Its fruit is tricoccous, hoary on the outside with a calix divided into 5parts. It comes near Ricini fructu parvo frucosa Curassavica, folioPhylli, P. B. Pr. Table 2 Figure 4. Solanum spinosum Novae Hollandiae Phylli foliissubrotundis. This new Solanum bears a bluish flower like the others ofthe same tribe; the leaves are of a whitish colour, thick and woolly onboth sides, scarce an inch long and near as broad. The thorns are verysharp and thick set, of a deep orange colour, especially towards thepoints. Table 3 Figure 1. Scabiosa (forte) Novae Hollandiae, statices foliissubtus argenteis. The flower stands on a foot-stalk 4 inches long, included in a rough calix of a yellowish colour. The leaves are not abovean inch long, very narrow like Thrift, green on the upper and hoary onthe underside, growing in tufts. Whether this plant be a Scabious, Thriftor Helichrysum is hard to judge from the imperfect flower of the driedspecimen. Table 3 Figure 2. Alcea Novae Hollandiae foliis angustis utrinquevillosis. The leaves, stalk, and underside of the perianthium of thisplant are all woolly. The petala are very tender, 5 in number, scarce solarge as the calix: in the middle stands a columella thick set withthrummy apiculae, which argue this plant to belong to the Malvaceouskind. Table 3 Figure 3. Of what genus this shrub or tree is is uncertain, agreeing with none yet described, as far as can be judged by the state itis in. It has a very beautiful flower, of a red colour, as far as can beguessed by the dry specimen, consisting of 10 large petala, hoary on bothsides, especially underneath; the middle of the flower is thick set withstamina, which are woolly at the bottom, the length of the petala, eachof them crowned with its apex. The calix is divided into 5 round pointedparts. The leaves are like those of Amelanchier Lob. , green at top andvery woolly underneath, not running to a point, as is common in others, but with an indenture at the upper end. Table 3 Figure 4. Dammara ex Nova-Hollandia, Sanamundae secundae Chysiifoliis. This new genus was first sent from Amboina by Mr. Rumphius, bythe name of Dammara, of which he transmitted 2 kinds; one with narrow andlong stiff leaves, the other with shorter and broader. The first of themis mentioned in Mr. Petiver's Centuria, page 350, by the name of ArborHortensis Javanorum foliis visce angustioribus aromaticis floribus, spicatis flameneis lutescentibus; Mus. Pet. As also in Mr. Ray'sSupplement to his History of Plants now in the press. This is of the samegenus with them, agreeing both in flower and fruit, though very muchdiffering in leaves. The flowers are stamineous and seem to be of anherbaceous colour, growing among the leaves, which are short and almostround, very stiff and ribbed on the underside, of a dark green above, anda pale colour underneath, thick set on by pairs, answering one anothercrossways so that they cover the stalk. The fruit is as big as apeppercorn, almost round, of a whitish colour, dry and tough, with a holeon the top, containing small seeds. Anyone that sees this plant withoutits seed vessels would take it for an Erica or Sanamunda. The leaves ofthis plant are of a very aromatic taste. Table 4 Figure 1. Equisetum Novae Hollandiae frutescens foliislongissimis. It is doubtful whether this be an Equisetum or not; thetextures of the leaves agree best with that genus of any, beingarticulated one within another at each joint, which is only proper tothis tribe. The longest of them are about 9 inches. Table 4 Figure 2. Colutea Novae Hollandiae floribus amplis coccineis, umbellatim dispositis macula purpurea notatis. There being no leaves tothis plant, it is hard to say what genus it properly belongs to. Theflowers are very like to the Colutea Barbae Jovis folio flore coccineoBreynii; of the same scarlet colour, with a large deep purple spot in thevexillum, but much bigger, coming all from the same point after themanner of an umbel. The rudiment of the pod is very woolly, andterminates in a filament near 2 inches long. Table 4 Figure 3. Conyza Novae Hollandiae angustis rorismarini foliis. This plant is very much branched and seems to be woody. The flowers standon very short pedicules, arising from the sinus of the leaves, which areexactly like rosemary, only less. It tastes very bitter now dry. Table 4 Figure 4. Mohoh Insulae Timor. This is a very odd plant, agreeingwith no described genus. The leaf is almost round, green on the upperside and whitish underneath, with several fibres running from theinsertion of the pedicule towards the circumference, it is umbilicated asCotyledon aquatica and Faba Aegyptia. The flowers are white, standing onsingle foot-stalks, of the shape of a Stramonium, but divided into 4points only, as is the perianthium. Table 5 Figure 1. Fucus ex Nova Guinea uva marina dictus, foliis variis. This beautiful Fucus is thick set with very small short tufts of leaves, which by the help of a magnifying glass seem to be round and articulated, as if they were seed vessels; besides these there are other broad leaves, chiefly at the extremity of the branches, serrated on the edges. Thevesiculae are round, of the bigness expressed in the figure. Table 5 Figure 2. Fucus ex Nova Guinea Fluviatilis Pisanae J. B. Foliis. These plants are so apt to vary in their leaves, according to theirdifferent states, that it is hard to say this is distinct from the last. It has in several places (not all expressed in the figure) some of thesmall short leaves, or seed vessels mentioned in the former; which makesme apt to believe it the same, gathered in a different state; besides thebroad leaves of that and this agree as to their shape and indentures. ... AN ACCOUNT OF SOME FISHES THAT ARE FIGURED IN PLATES 2 AND 3 FISHES. Plate 3 Figure 5. This is a fish of the tunny kind, and agrees wellenough with the figure in Table 3 of the Appendix to Mr. Willughby'sHistory of Fishes under the name of gurabuca; it differs something, inthe fins especially, from Piso's figure of the guarapuca. Plate 3 Figure 4. This resembles the figure of the Guaperva maximacaudata in Willughby's Ichthyol. Table 9. 23 and the guaparva of Piso, butdoes not answer their figures in every particular. Plate 2 Figure 2. There are 2 sorts of porpoises: the one thelong-snouted porpoise, as the seamen call it; and this is the dolphin ofthe Greeks. The other is the bottle-nose porpoise, which is generallythought to be the phaecena of Aristotle. Plate 2 Figure 7. This is the guaracapema of Piso and Marcgrave, byothers called the dorado. It is figured in Willughby's Ichthyol. Table0. 2 under the name of Delphin Belgis. ... INDEX. Allegrance, one of the Canary Islands, its view from several points. Amphisbaena (snake) described. Amplitude, difference between the morning and evening amplitude. Arifah (fruit) described. An account of several plants collected in Brazil, New Holland, Timor, andNew Guinea, referring to the figures in Tables 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. An account of some fishes figured on Plates 2 and 3. Bahia de todos los Santos (Bay of All-Saints) in Brazil:its harbour and town described. The product and trade of the country. Their shipping and timber. The soil and fruit of the country. The winds and seasons. The time of cutting sugarcane. Its view from several points. Bill-bird described. Birds of New Holland. Blake, sunk the Spanish galleons near Tenerife. Brazil, the view of its coast, see Bahia. Britain (New), an island discovered by the author, well-inhabited, andprobably affording rich commodities. Bubbles, like small pearls, swimming thick in the sea. Cables, made of a sort of hair growing on trees in Brazil. Callavances, a fruit in Mayo. Canary Islands:their product and trade. The character of their present governor. Cape of Good Hope, its view from several points. Cashew (fruit) described. Channel (English) a necessary caution to those that sail through it. Chattering-crow of Brazil described. Clocking-hens of Brazil. Coconut-trees in Brazil. Cotton (Silk) its growth and description. Crusia, a fowl. Cupang, see Kupang. Curlew, a fowl. Currecoo (Bird) described. Currents in the sea, from 7 degrees 50 minutes latitude to 3 degrees 22minutes north. Curreso (Bird). Custard-apple described. Cuttlefish, see also Scuttle-fish. Dendees, a sort of palm-berries in Brazil. Dogs, see Water-dogs. Dunghill-fowls of Brazil. Fish of New Holland. Fish of the tunny kind, an account of. Fish called by the seamen the old-wife, an account of. Flamingo, a fowl. Flying-fish, betwixt the Canaries and Cape Verde Islands. Frape-boat, its use at the salt-pond at Mayo. Galena pintada, a bird, described. Galleons (Spanish) sunk by Admiral Blake, near Tenerife, and continuestill there. Gerrit Denis (Garrett Dennis) Isle, its inhabitants described. Iguana (Guano), (beast) of New Holland. Guinea-hens, see Galena pintada. Guinea (New) its natives, etc. Hammocks, gentlemen carried about in them at Bahia in Brazil. Holland (New):coast described. Its natives described. Views of several parts of its coasts and islands from several points. Jago (St. ):island and town. Its inhabitants. Its product. Its animals. Its road a very bad one. Its view. Jenetae (Bird) described. Jenipah or Jenipapah (fruit) described. Ingwa (fruit) described. Laguna in Tenerife described. Lancerota, one of the Canary Islands, its view from several points. Mackeraw (bird) described. Malmsey wine grows in the island Tenerife. Mayo, one of the Cape Verde Islands:its view. Its description. A large account of the making salt there. Its soil and product. Its inhabitants. Its view from several points. Mendibee (fruit). Mericasah (fruit) described. Miniola, a fowl. Monkfish. Muckishaw (fruit) described. Mungaroo (fruit) described. Musteran-de-ova (fruit) described. Noddy-bird described. North-west winds give notice beforehand of their coming, at Port Orataviain Tenerife, and how provided against. Oratavia, a port in Tenerife. Otee (fruit) described. Palm-berries in Brazil. Papah, a fruit described. Passage possibly to the south of New Holland and New Guinea into theGreat South Sea eastward. Petango (fruit) described. Petrel (bird) described. Petumbo (fruit) described. Physick-nuts. Pineon (fruit). Pintado-bird described. Plants, an account of them. Plants engraven on copper, Tables 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Plants of New Holland. Porpoises. Portuguese civil to the author. Rabek, a fowl. Raccoon of New Holland. Remora (fish) Plate 11 Figure 6. Rosemary Island in New Holland, the plant resembling rosemary from whichthe author gives this name to the island, is figured. Salt, a large account of the method of making it at Mayo. Salt-ponds at Mayo, kern only in the dry season, others in the WestIndies in the wet only. Santa Cruz in Tenerife, its road, town and harbour described. Seamen:in great danger of sickness, by neglecting to shift their wet clothes inhot countries. Their ignorance and obstinacy, a great impediment in long voyages. Seaweeds, see weeds. Shark of New Holland described. Shark's Bay in New Holland described. Shearwater (bird) described. Ship (the author's) foundered at sea. Ship of 50 guns built at Brazil. Skipjack (fish) described. Snake, see Watersnake, and Amphisbaena. Soursop (fruit) described. Sugar, the way of refining it in Brazil with clay. Tasman's chart rectified. Tenerife:its wines and fruits and animals. Its north-west view. Timber at Brazil as good and more durable than any in Europe. Timor. Trees of New Holland. Turtle:lay their eggs in the wet season. Why not eaten by the Spaniards as by the English. Turtledoves of Brazil. Variation:where it is increased in sailing easterly. Where decreased in sailing easterly. Its uncertainty, and the difficulty of taking it. A large table of variations observed in this voyage. Water-dog of Brazil. Watersnake:of Brazil, its wonderful manner of catching its prey. Of New Holland. Weeds floating in the sea. Whales (dead) eaten by fowls. Whales, the catching and use of them in Brazil. Whales of New Holland. Winds uncertain near the Line. Yemma (bird) described.