[Illustration: FRONTISPIECE EXECUTIONS _at_ PARIS _with a Beheading Machine_. _Vide page 32_]

 A

 TRIP

 TO

 P A R I S, IN

 JULY and AUGUST, 1792. 

 _LONDON_: PRINTED AT THE Minerva Press, AND SOLD BY WILLIAM LANE, LEADENHALL-STREET, AND BY MRS. HARLOW, PALL-MALL. M. DCC. XCIII. PRICE THREE SHILLINGS Entered at Stationers Hall. 

 * * * * *

CONTENTS. 

Road from Calais, Unneccessary Passports. Chantilly. 1Expenses 6Miscellaneous observations. Chess-men. Tree of Liberty. Crucifixes. Virgins. Saints. Bishops, Old Women 8Wall round Paris. New Bridge. Field of the Federation. Bastille 15Coins and Tokens 19Theatres 24Pantheon. Jacobins. Quai Voltaire. Rue Rousseau. Cockades 27Execution of two criminals with a beheading machine 32Versailles. Botany, Sounding meridians 38Dogs and Cats. Two-headed Boy 50Miscellanies. Books burnt. Chess, Convents 54Dress. Inns 65Assignats 66Battle and massacre at the Tuileries 71Statues pulled down. New names 84Beheading. Dead naked bodies 90Courage and curiosity of the fair sex. Massacre in 1572 93Miscellanies. Number of slain 99Breeches. Pikes. Necessary Passports 105Miscellanies. Dancing. Poultry, Taverns. Wig 111Extent, Population, &c. Of France 116Emendations and Additions. Return to Calais 123Epilogue 129

 * * * * *

 A

 TRIP

 TO

 PARIS. 

ROAD FROM CALAIS. UNNECESSARY PASSPORTS. CHANTILLY. 

THE following excursion was undertaken for several reasons: the first ofwhich was, that though I had been many times in Paris before, yet I hadnot once been there since the Revolution, and I was desirous of seeinghow far a residence of a few years in France might be practicable andagreeable; secondly, a Counter-Revolution, or, at least, some violentmeasures were expected, and I was willing to be there at the time, ifpossible; and lastly, I wanted to examine the gardens near Paris. 

I must here premise that I sent for a passport from the Secretary ofState's office, which I knew could do no harm if it did no good, thinking I should have it for nothing, and obtained one signed by LordGrenville, but at the same time a demand was made for _two guineas andsixpence_ for the fees; now, as I have had passports from almost all theEuropean nations, _all and every one_ of which were _gratis_, I sent thepass back; it was however immediately returned to me, and I was toldthat, "A passport is never issued from that office without that fee, even if the party asking for it changes his mind. " _I paid the money, and that is all I shall say about the matter. _

_Mr. Chauvelin_ (the minister from France) sent me his pass _gratis_;those which I afterwards received in Paris from _Lord Gower_, and thevery essential one from _Mr. Petion_, were likewise _gratis_. 

That of _Mr. Chauvelin_ has at the top a small engraving of three_Fleurs de Lys_ between two oak branches, surmounted by a crown: at thebottom is another small engraving, with his cypher F. C. It was datedLondon, _17th_ July, 1792, 4th year of Liberty. 

_No passport of any kind is necessary to enter France. _ At Calais onewas given to me by the magistrates, mentioning my age, stature, complexion, &c. And this would have been a sufficient permit for mygoing out of France by sea or by land, if the disturbances in Paris, ofthe 10th of August, had not happened. 

I embarked at Dover on the 25th July, at one in the afternoon, andlanded at Calais after a pleasant passage of three hours and a half. 

I immediately procured a national cockade, which was a silk ribband, with blue, white, and red stripes; changed twenty guineas for fortylivres each, in paper, (the real value is not more than twenty-fivelivres) hired a _cabriolet_, or two wheeled post-chaise of _Dessin_, (which was to take me to Paris, and bring me back in a month) for three_louis d'ors_ in money, bought a post-book, drank a bottle of Burgundy, and set off directly for _Marquise_ (about fifteen miles) where I passedthe night. 

The next day, 26th, I proceeded only to _Abbeville_, and it was ten atnight when I got there, because a gentleman in the chaise with me, andanother gentleman and his wife, who had not been in France before, andwho accompanied us all the way to Paris, wished to see Boulogne. Weaccordingly walked round the ramparts, and then went on. 

The 27th we remained a few hours at _Amiens_, and saw the cathedral andthe engine which supplies the city with water, called _La Tour d'Eau_. We slept at _Breteuil_ which is a paltry town (_Bourg_. )

The 28th. We were five hours occupied in seeing _Chantilly_. This palaceis the most magnificent of any in Europe, not belonging to a sovereign. In the cabinet of natural history, which has lately been veryconsiderably augmented, by the addition of that of _Mr. Valmont deBomare_ (who arranged the whole) I observed the _foetus_ of a whale, about fourteen inches long, preserved in spirits; and the skin of a wolfstuffed. I saw this identical wolf at _Montargis_, a palace beyond_Fontainebleau_, in 1784, soon after it had been shot. The carp came, asusual, to be fed by hand. Some of them are said to have been here abovea century. As to the gardens, they are well known; all that I shall sayis, that they do not contain a single curious tree, shrub, or flower. Wehired a landau, at the inn, to drive us about these gardens, and in theevening proceeded to _St. Denis_, which is only a single post fromParis, where we remained, as it would not have been so convenient toseek for a lodging there at night. 

The next day, Sunday 29th, early in the morning, we entered Paris, andput up at the _Hôtel d'Espagne_, _Rue du Colombier_, and in the eveningwent to the opera of _Corisandre_. 

EXPENCES. 

THE whole expences of our journey from Calais to Paris was as follows. The distance is thirty-four posts and a half, the last of which must bepaid double. [1] The two chaises were each drawn by two horses, at 30sous per horse, and 20 sous to each postillion per post, is 35 and halfposts, at eight _livres_, is _Livres_ 284. 

[Note 1: A post is about two leagues, or between four and six miles, as the posthouses are not exactly at the same distance from each other. ]

Greasing the wheels and extra gratifications to drivers, about 32

The fees for seeing _Chantilly_, including the hire of a carriage, 24

Inns on the road, four days and four nights, about 200 ------ _£. _ 540

This, at 40 livres per guinea, amounts to thirteen guineas and a half;to which must be added, for the hire of the two chaises to Paris, three_Louis_ in money, adequate to three pounds sterling, which altogetherdoes not amount to four guineas each person, travelling post above twohundred miles, and faring sumptuously on the road, drinking Burgundy andChampagne, and being as well received at the inns as if the expences hadbeen quadrupled. One hot meal a day, at three _livres_ a head, one_livre_ for each bed, and the wine paid for apart, was the customaryallowance. After this manner I have travelled several times all overFrance, to _Bourdeaux_, _Toulouse_, _Montpelier_, _Marseille_, _Toulon_, _Hieres_, _Avignon_, _Lyon_, _&c. _

Had the exchange been at par, the expence would have been doubled, inEnglish money; but even then would have been very reasonable, comparedto the cost of a similar journey in England. 

At Paris I received 42 livres 15 sous for each guinea; soon after whichI was paid forty-two livres for every pound sterling which I drew onLondon: on my return to Calais I found the exchange to be forty-fourlivres per guinea, and once it was as high as forty-nine. This, ofcourse, very much injures the trade between England and France; but, forthe same reason, English families residing in France at present, morethan double their income, by drawing bills on London for such income, and it will probably be many years before the exchange will be at _par_again. 

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. CHESSMEN. TREE OF LIBERTY. CRUCIFIXES, VIRGINS. SAINTS. BISHOPS. OLD WOMEN, &C. 

THE whole way from Calais to Paris the land was in the highest state ofcultivation. 

The sandy soil near the gates of Calais abounded with the _ChelidoniumGlaucium_, or common yellow horned poppy. 

The first vines on this road are about a mile on this side of Breteuil. 

Between St. Just and Clermont is a magnificent _château_ and gardenbelonging to the _ci-devant Duc de Fitzjames_: this seat has never beendescribed; it is not shewn to strangers at present, as the proprietor isemigrated. 

The country all around Chantilly, consists of cornfields; formerly itappeared barren, because the immense quantity of game which infested andover-ran it devoured all the crops and ruined the farmers, who were sentto the gallies if they shot a bird. 

I passed this way in 1783 and 1784, and saw vast numbers of pheasants, partridges, and hares cross the road, and feed by the side of it, astame as poultry in a farm-yard; but at present the game is alldestroyed; neither are there any more wild boars in the forest, which isof 7600 acres. These animals still inhabit the forest of_Fontainebleau_. This forest (which covers almost four times as muchground as that of _Chantilly_)[2] contains a greater number of trees, ofa more enormous size, than I have seen in any other part of Europe, growing amongst rocks and stones equally remarkable for theirdimensions. I know not of any parallel to the _sublime-beautiful_, andto the wild and romantic grandeur of the scenery here displayed. Thelandscapes of _Salvator Rosa_ appear to have been taken from naturalobjects, similar to those which are here seen. It is only forty milesfrom Paris. 

[Note 2: It is about five square miles, or rather, eight miles inlength from two to four miles in breadth. ]

In the treasury of the Abbey at _St. Denis_ were formerly preserved theChess-men of _Charlemagne_; these I described in the first volume of_Chess_, published in 1787; they are now either _stolen or strayed_, andwill probably never more be heard of. 

All the horses (many of which were stone-horses) we had occasion to makeuse of along this road were very gentle, and so were the cattle whichwere feeding on the grass growing on the borders of the cornfields, (without any inclosure) which they were prevented from entering by astring tied to their horns, one end of which was sometimes held by achild of five or six years old. The people here are very merciful andkind to their beasts. I have seen droves of oxen walking leisurelythrough the green markets in the cities, smelling at the vegetables, anddriven to the slaughter-house by children. There are no instances hereof mad oxen, mad dogs, or run-away horses. 

In every one of the towns between Calais and Paris a full-grown tree(generally a poplar) has been planted in the market-place, with many ofits boughs and leaves; these last being withered, it makes but a dismalappearance; on the top of this tree or pole is a red woollen or cottonnight-cap, which is called the _Cap of Liberty_, with streamers aboutthe pole, of red, blue and white ribbands. 

I saw several statues of saints, both within and without the churches(and in Paris likewise) with similar caps, and several crucifixes withthe national cockade of ribbands tied to the left arm of the image onthe cross, but not one with the cockade in its proper place; the reasonof which I know not. 

I was both surprised and sorry to see the wooden images, many of them aslarge as the life, on crosses, painted with the natural colours, to theamount of perhaps twenty between _Calais_ and _Paris_, still suffered toremain nuisances on the side of the road. The _perpendicular_ of eachcross being seasoned, by having been exposed many years to the open air, might make a couple of excellent pike staves;[3] but the remainderwould, as far as I know, be of no other use than for fuel. 

[Note 3: This was written after I had become familiarized to pikes. ]

Another absurdity which has not been attended to as yet is, that most ofthe almanacks, even that which is prefixed to Mr. _Rabaut's_ Account ofthe Revolution, contains against every day in the year, the name of somesaint or other, male or female; some of them martyrs, and others not, others archangels, angels, arch-bishops, bishops, popes, and virgins, tothe number of twenty-four, and of these, four were martyrs into thebargain; and this at a time when churches are selling by auction andpulling down, when the convents are turned into barracks, when there isneither monk nor nun to be seen in the kingdom, nor yet any _Abbe_, andwhen no priest dares appear in any sacerdotal garment, or even with anything which might mark him as an ecclesiastic. It must however beacknowledged, that the saints have lost all their credit in France, andof course so have the _Bienheureux_, or _Blessed_. In order to arrive atsaint-hood, the candidate must first have died _en odeur de Sainteté_, which, were it not too ludicrous, might be translated _smelling ofholiness_; he was then created a _Bienheureux_, and after he had beendead a century, the pope might canonize him if he pleased; after whichhe, the saint, might work miracles if he could, or let it alone. 

France formerly contained eighteen arch-bishopricks, and one hundred andthirteen bishopricks; the _Arch ones_ are all abolished, and likewiseforty-seven of the others; there are, however, plenty remaining, no lessthan seventy-three, which includes seven new ones, and one in _Corsica_. 

The churches in Paris are not much frequented on the week days, atpresent; I found a few old women on their knees in some of them, hearingmass; and, at the same time, at the other end of one of these churchescommissaries were sitting and entering the names of volunteers for thearmy. 

The iron rails in the churches which part the choir from the nave, andalso those which encompass chapels and tombs, are all ordered to beconverted into heads for pikes. 

On Sundays, before the 19th of August, the churches were still resortedto, but by no means crowded; I know not whether this be the case now. 

All the _jours de fête_, holidays, are very judiciously abolished, andlikewise _les jours gras, et maigres_, (Flesh and meagre days. )

All shops are allowed to be open, and every trade carried on on Sundays, notwithstanding which, few are open excepting those where provisions aresold; the inhabitants choosing to have one day's relaxation in seven, totake a little fresh air, and to appear well dressed. 

WALL ROUND PARIS. NEW BRIDGE. FIELD OF THE FEDERATION. BASTILLE. 

THERE is a Wall which encompasses Paris, of about twelve feet high andtwo feet thick, about nine miles long on the North side, and five onthe South side; this was built just before the Revolution, and wasintended to prevent goods from being smuggled into Paris. On the Northside are thirty-six barriers, and on the other side eighteen; of thesefifty-four I saw only ten. They were intended for the officers of thecustoms; at present they are used as guardrooms. Most of them aremagnificent buildings, of white stone, some like temples, others likechapels; several of these are described in the new _Paris Guides_; butviews of none of them have as yet been engraven. [4]

[Note 4: The _Rotunda D'Orleans_, in this wall, at the back of thegardens of the _ci-devant_ Duke of that name is worthy of observation. ]

A bridge of white stone was just finished and opened for the passage ofcarriages; it was begun in 1787, it is of five arches, the centre archis ninety-six feet wide, the two collateral ones eighty-seven feet each, and other two seventy-eight, each of these arches forms part of acircle, whose centre is considerably under the level of the water; it isthrown over the river from the _Place de Louis XV. _ to the _PalaisBourbon_. 

The _Champ de la Federation_, formerly _Champ de Mars_, is a field whichserved for the exercises of the pupils of the Royal Military School; itis a regular parallelogram of nine hundred yards long, and three hundredyards broad, exclusive of the ditches by which it is bounded, and of thequadruple rows of trees on each side; but if these are included thebreadth is doubled. At one extremity is the magnificent buildingabove-mentioned, [5] and the river runs at the foot of the others. Inthis field is formed the largest _Circus_ in the world, being eighthundred yards long and four hundred broad; it is bordered by a slope offorty yards broad, and of which the highest part is ten feet above thelevel ground; the lower part is cut into thirty rows, gradually elevatedabove each other, and on these rows or ridges a hundred and sixtythousand persons may fit commodiously; the upper part may contain abouta hundred and fifty thousand persons standing, of which every one maysee equally well what is doing in the _Circus_. The Nationalconfederation was first held here, 14th July, 1790, and at that time awooden bridge was thrown on boats over the river for convenience. 

[Note 5: In 1788 the school was suppressed, the scholars were placedin the army, or in country colleges, and the building is intended, whenthe necessary alterations are completed, to be one of the four hospitalswhich are to replace that of the _Hôtel-Dieu_. This hospital is in sucha bad situation, being in the midst of Paris, that a quarter of thepatients die. It contains only two thousand beds; each of the four newhospitals is to contain twelve hundred beds. ]

Of the _Bastille_ nothing remains but the foundations; it was demolishedand levelled with the ground in about eleven months; the expences at theend of the first three months amounted to about twenty thousand poundssterling. The materials were sold for half that sum, and the nation paidthe remainder. And on the 14th of July, 1790, the anniversary of the dayof its having been taken, a long mast was erected in the middle of theplace where it stood, crowned with flowers and ribbands, and bearingthis simple and expressive inscription; _Ici on Danse_. Here isdancing. 

COINS AND TOKENS. 

IN the _Hôtel de la Monnoye_ (the Mint) I procured some new coins. Thesilver crown piece of six livres has on one side the king's head inprofile, round which is _Louis XVI. Roi des François_, 1792; over thisdate is a small lion passant, being a Mint mark. The reverse, is a humanfigure with an enormous pair of wings, [6] holding a book in its lefthand, which book rests on an altar, and with its other is represented asif writing in it; the word _Constitution_ is already seen there. Thefigure is naked, except a slight drapery on the left arm; behind thefigure is a bundle of staves, like the Roman Fasces, surmounted by thecap of liberty, and behind the altar is a cock standing on one leg; theinscription is _Regne de la Loi_. _L'An 4 de la Liberté. _ Besides this, there are two other Mint marks, one a small lyre, and the other theletter A; at the foot of the altar is _Dupre_, the name of the personwho engraved the die; and on the edge is _La Nation_, _La Loi_, _et leRoi_, in _Relievo_. 

[Note 6: There is to be a new coinage without the king's profile, and it is to be hoped these wings, or rather the whole figure, will beleft out. ]

There are no new half crowns. The dies of the new thirty and fifteen solpieces are just like that of the crown, except that their value isstamped on them 30 _Sols_, 15 _Sols_, and that there is no inscriptionon the edge. 

There are two other coins, made of a sort of bell-metal; one of two_Sols_, with the king's profile; inscription and date like those on thesilver coin, and on the reverse the _Fasces_ and cap, between two oakbranches, and the inscription, _La Nation, Le Loi, Le Roi. L'an_ 4 _dela Liberté. 2 S_. The other of half this size, and with the sameimpressions, except that its value is specified thus, 12 D. Or_Deniers_, equal to one _Sol_. 

I have not seen any new Louis. No paper money or assignats is known inthe Mint; I bought some coins here, and paid for them in guineas, whichare currant for twenty-five livres. There are twelve or fourteen mills, which were all at work in coining crown pieces, and likewise severalhammering machines, one of which was coining 2 _Sols_ pieces. 

Besides the national coins, several tradesmen have been permitted tofabricate silver and copper medals or _tokens_, for public convenience, the most beautiful of which are those of _M. Monneron_. The largest isof almost pure copper, exactly of the size and thickness of the crownpiece; in an oval is represented a female figure with a helmet on, sitting on an elevated place, on which is _Dupre f. _ (or fecit) holdinga book, inscribed _Constitution des François_; at her side is a shieldwith the arms of France, and at her feet an altar, on one side of whichis the profile of the king; several soldiers are represented extendingtheir right arms, as if taking the oath; at top is _Pacte Federatif_; atbottom 14 _Juillet_, 1790; round the oval _vivre libres ou mourir_, which is repeated in one of the banners carried by a soldier. On thereverse, in a circle, is _Medaille de confiance de cinq-solsremboursable en assignats de_ 50L _et au dessus_. _L'An IV. De laLiberté_; round this is _Monneron Freres Negocians à Paris_, 1792; andon the edge is cut _Departemens de Paris_, _Rhone et Loire_. _Du Gard_. 

I have another of these pieces, not quite so large nor so well executed;one of the sides is similar to that already described; on the other is_Medaille qui se vend_ 5 _Sols à Paris chez Monneron patenté_. _L'An IV. De la Liberté_. Round this is, _Revolution Française_, 1792; and on theedge, _Bon pour les_ 83 _Departemens_. I am told this was made atBirmingham. 

The other token of the same merchant is rather larger and thicker thanour halfpenny. On one side is a woman sitting, with a staff in her righthand with the cap of liberty; her left arm leans on a square tablet, onwhich are the words, _Droits de l'Homme. Artic. V. _[7] the sun shinesjust over her head, and behind her is a cock perched on half a flutedcolumn; round the figure, _Liberté sous la Loi_, and underneath, _L'AnIII. De la Liberté_. On the reverse, _Medaille de confiance de deux solsà echanger contre des assignats de 50L et au dessus. 1791_. Roundthis the merchant's name, as in the first; and on the edge, _Bon pourBord. Marseil. Lyon. Rouen. Nant. Et Strasb_. 

[Note 7: This article is, "The law has the right of prohibiting onlythose actions which are hurtful to society. "]

I have seen a silver token almost as big as a shilling. On one side isrepresented a woman sitting, leaning with her left arm on a large openbook, at her right is a cock perched on half a fluted column; and theinscription round these figures is, _Le Fevre, Le Sage et Compie. Ngt. à Paris_. On the reverse is _B. P. _ (bon pour) 20 _Sols àechanger en assignats_ de 50L and round this, _et au dessus l'an 4 mede la Liberté_, 1792. [8]

[Note 8: This and the former _echanger_, &c. And _remboursable_, &c. Appear to be superfluous. ]

In this Hôtel is the cabinet of the royal school of mineralogy, whichMr. Le Sage has been four and twenty years in forming and analyzing; itis contained in a magnificent building, with a dome and gallery almostentirely of marble. 

THEATRES. 

AT this time there were ten regular theatres open every evening. Thefirst and most ancient of which is the Opera, or Royal Academy of Music. The old house which was in the Palais Royal, was burnt in 1781, and thepresent house, near St. Martin's Gate, was built in seventy-five days. The number of performers, vocal and instrumental, dancers, &c. Employedin this theatre is about four hundred and thirty. The price of admissionto the first boxes is seven livres ten sous, about six shillings andeight pence, (or three shillings and four pence as the exchange thenwas. )

2. The _French_ playhouse is at present called _Theatre de la Nation_. In the vestibule or porch is a marble statue of _Voltaire_, sitting inan arm chair; it is near the Luxembourg. 

3. The Italian theatre behind the _Boulevart Richelieu_. Notwithstandingthe name, nothing but French pieces, and French music, are performedhere. 

4. Theatre _de Monsieur_. _Rue Feydeau_. Comedies and operas areperformed here, three times a week in the Italian, and the other days inthe French language; for which purpose two sets of players are engagedat this house. 

5. Theatre Français. Rue de Richelieu. At these four theatres the priceof admission into the boxes was a crown. 

6. Theatre de la Rue de Louvois. 

7. Theatre Français. Rue de Bondy. 

8. Theatre de la Demoiselle Montansier, au Palais Royal. The box priceof these three last was half a crown. 

9. Theatre du Marais, quartier St. Antoine. 

10. Theatre de Moliere. Rue St. Martin. 

To these must be added about five and twenty more; the best of which isthe _Theatre de l'ambigu comique_, on the _North Boulevarts_;[9] thebox price was half a crown. The others were rope dancers, and such kindof spectacles as _Sadler's Wells, &c. _ and the prices were from twoshillings down to sixpence. The French themselves, laughing at the greatincrease of their theatres, said, "We shall shortly have a publicspectacle per street, an actor per house, a musician per cellar, and anauthor per garret. "

[Note 9: These _Boulevarts_ were made in 1536, and planted with fourrows of trees in 1668; these beautiful walks are too well known to bedescribed here; they are 2400 _Toises_ (4800 yards, or almost threemiles) long. The South Boulevarts are planted in the same manner, werefinished in 1761, and are 3683 _Toises_, or fathom (above four miles) inlength. ]

PANTHEON. JACOBINS. QUAI VOLTAIRE. RUE ROUSSEAU. COCKADES. 

THE new church of _Sainte Genevieve_ was begun in 1757; but the buildingwas discontinued during the last war; in 1784 it was resumed, and is atpresent almost finished. The whole length of the front is thus inscribedin very large gilt capitals: _Aux grands hommes: la Patriereconnoissante_. To great men: their grateful country. And over theentrance: _Pantheon Français. L'An III de la Liberté_. 

As to the size of Paris, I saw two very large plans of that city and ofLondon, on the same scale, on which it was said, that Paris covered5, 280, 000 square _Toises_, and London only 3, 900, 000. A _Toise_ is twoyards; and from the plan it appeared to be near the truth. 

The new buildings which surround the garden of the Palais Royal form aparallelogram, that for beauty is not to be matched in Europe. Theyconsist of shops, coffee-houses, music rooms, four of which are incellars, taverns, gaming-houses, &c. And the whole square is almostalways full of people. The square is 234 yards in length, and 100 inbreadth; the portico which surround it consists of 180 arches. 

The celebrated _Jacobins_ are a club, consisting at present of about1300 members, and so called, because the place of meeting is in thehall which was formerly the library of the convent of that name, in the_Rue St. Honoré_, about 300 yards distant from the National Assembly. The proper name of the club is, _Society of the Friends of theConstitution_. There are three or four other societies of less note. 

The _Quai_, which was formerly called _des Theatins_ is at present named_Quai Voltaire_, in honor of that philosopher, who died there in thehouse of the Marquis de _Villette_, in 1778. 

The street which was formerly called _Platriere_, and in which thegeneral post-office is situated, is called _Rue Jean Jaques Rousseau_, in honour of this writer, who resided some time in this street. I foundhim here in 1776, and he copied some music for me; he had no other booksat that time than an English _Robinson Crusoe_ and an Italian _Tasso'sJerusalem_. He died 1st July, 1778, very soon after Voltaire, at thecountry seat of le Marquis _de Girardin_ about ten leagues from Paris;and is buried there, in a small island. 

And the street which was formerly called _Chaussée d'Antin_ is now named_Rue de Mirabeau_, in honour of the late patriot of that name. 

The church _des Innocens_ was pulled down in 1786, and the vast_cimetiére_ (burying ground) was filled up. Every night, during severalmonths, carts were employed in carrying the bones found there, to othergrounds out of Paris; it is now a market for vegetables. Very near thisplace was a fountain, which is mentioned in letters patent so long agoas 1273. It was rebuilt with extraordinary magnificence in 1550, repaired in 1708, and at last, in 1788, carefully removed to the centerof the market, where it now stands. 

The new _Quai de Gesvres_ was constructed in 1787, and all the shopswhich formed a long narrow alley for foot passengers only, weredestroyed. 

At this time no person was permitted to walk in any other part of the_Tuileries_ gardens than in the terrace of the _Feuillans_, which isparallel to the _Rue St. Honoré_, and under the windows of the _NationalAssembly_; the only fence to the other part of the garden was a blueribband extended between two chairs. 

Hitherto cockades of silk had been worn, the _aristocrats_ wore such aswere of a paler blue and red, than those worn by the _democrats_, andthe former were even distinguished by their carriages, on which a cloudwas painted upon the arms, which entirely obliterated them, (of these Isaw above thirty in the evening _promenade_, in the _Bois de Boulogne_:)but on the 30th of July, every person was compelled by the people towear a linen cockade, without any distinction in the red and bluecolours. 

EXECUTION OF TWO CRIMINALS, WITH A BEHEADING MACHINE. 

ON the 4th of August a criminal was beheaded, in the _Place de Grêve_. Idid not see the execution, because, as the hour is never specified, Imight have waited many hours in a crowd, from which there is noextricating one's self. I was there immediately after, and saw themachine, which was just going to be taken away. I went into acoffee-house and made a drawing, which is here engraven. It is called_la Guillotine_, from the name of the person who first brought it intouse in Paris: that at _Lisle_ is called _le Louison_, for a similarreason. In English it is termed a maiden. [10]

[Note 10: Mr. Pennant, in the second volume of his Tour in Scotland, has given a long account of such a machine, from which the followingparticulars are taken. "It was confined to the limits of the forest ofHardwick, or the eighteen towns and hamlets within its precincts. Theexecution was generally at Halifax; Twenty five criminals sufferedduring the reign of Queen Elizabeth; the records before that time werelost. Twelve more were executed between 1623 and 1650, after which it issupposed the privilege was no more exerted. ----This machine is nowdestroyed, but there is one of the same kind, in a room under theParliament house, at Edinburgh, where it was introduced by the RegentMorton, who took a model of it as he passed through Halifax, and atlength suffered by it himself. It is in form of a painters easel, andabout ten feet high: at four feet from the bottom is a cross-bar, onwhich the felon laid his head, which was kept down by another placedabove. In the inner edges of the frame are grooves; in these is placed asharp axe, with a vast weight of lead, supported at the summit by a peg;to that peg is fastened a cord, which the executioner cutting, the axefalls, and beheads the criminal. If he was condemned for stealing ahorse or a cow, the string was tied to the beast, which pulled out thepeg and became the executioner. "]

I have seen the following seven engravings of such an instrument. Themost ancient is engraven on wood, merely outlines, and very badly drawn;it is in _Petrus de Natalibus Catalogus Sanctorum, 1510_. 

There was a German translation of some of _Petrarch's_ Works, publishedin 1520; this contains an engraving in wood, representing an execution, with a great number of figures, correctly drawn. 

_Aldegrever_, in 1553, published another print on this subject. 

The fourth is in _Achillis Bocchii Quæstiones Symbolicæ_, 1550. 

There is one in _Cats's_ Dutch Emblems, 1650. 

And the two last are in _Golfrieds's_ Historical Chronicles, in German, folio, 1674. These five last are engraven on copper. 

In all these representations the axe is either straight or semicircular, but always horizontal. The sloping position of the French axe appears tobe the best calculated for celerity. 

Machines of this kind are at present made use of for executionsthroughout all France, and criminals are put to death in no othermanner. 

The following is the account of an execution, which I had from aneye-witness. 

The crowd began to assemble at ten in the morning, and waited, exposedto the intense heat of the sun in the middle of July, till four in theafternoon, when the criminals, a Marquis and a Priest, were brought, intwo coaches; they were condemned for having forged _assignats_. 

The Marquis ascended the scaffold first; he was as pale as if he hadalready been dead, and he endeavoured to hide his face, by pulling hishair over it; there were two executioners, dressed in black, on thescaffold, one of which immediately tied a plank of about 18 inchesbroad, and an inch thick, to the body of the Marquis, as he stoodupright, fastening it about the arms, the belly, and the legs; thisplank was about four feet long, and came almost up to his chin; a priestwho attended, then applied a crucifix to his mouth, and the twoexecutioners directly laid him on his belly on the bench, lifted up theupper part of the board which was to receive his neck, adjusted hishead properly, then shut the board and pulled the string which isfastened to the peg at the top of the machine, which lifted up a latch, and down came the axe; the head was off in a moment, and fell into abasket which was ready to receive it, the executioner took it out andheld it up by the hair to show the populace, and then put it intoanother basket along with the body: very little blood had issued as yet. 

The Priest was now taken out of the coach, from which he might have seenhis companion suffer; the bloody axe was hoisted up and he underwent thesame operation exactly. Each of these executions lasted about a minutein all, from the moment of the criminal's ascending the scaffold to thatof the body's being taken away. It was now seen that the body of theMarquis made such a violent expiration that the belly raised the lid ofthe basket it was in, and the blood rushed out of the great arteries intorrents. 

The windows of the _Place de Grêve_ were, as usual on such occasions, filled with ladies. [11] Many persons were performing on violins, andtrumpets, in order to pass the time away, and to relieve the tediousnessof expectation. 

[Note 11: Mrs. Robinson tells me, that when she was at Paris, a fewyears ago, her _valet de place_, came early one morning, informing herthere would be a _grand spectacle_, and wanted to know if he should hirea place for her. This superb spectacle was no other than the executionof two murderers, who were to be broken alive on the wheel, in the Placede Grêve, on that day. She however says, that she declined going. ]

I have on several other days seen felons sitting on stools on thisscaffold, with their hands tied, and their arms and bodies fastened to astake by a girth, bareheaded, with an inscription over their heads, specifying their crimes and punishment; they are generally thus exposedduring five or fix hours, and then sent to prison, or to the galliesaccording to the sentence. 

VERSAILLES. BOTANY. SOUNDING MERIDIANS. 

I went once to Versailles; there is hardly any thing in the palace butthe bare walls, a very few of the looking-glasses, tapestry, and largepictures remaining, as it has now been near two years uninhabited. Icrossed the great canal on foot; there was not a drop of water in it. 

In the _Menagerie_ I saw the Rhinoceros, which has been 23 years there;there is likewise a lion, with a little dog in the same den, as hiscompanion, and a zebra. 

The collection of orange trees cannot be matched in any country wherethese trees do not grow naturally; the number is about six hundred, thelargest trunk is about fifteen inches in diameter, and the age of themost ancient of these trees exceeds three centuries. 

The _Jardin Potager_, or kitchen garden, is of fifty acres, divided intoabout five or six and twenty small gardens, of one, two, or three acres, walled round, both for shelter to the plants, and for training fruittrees against. One of these gardens, of two acres, was entirely allottedto the culture of melons, and these were all of the warty _rockcantalupe_ kind, and were growing under hand-glasses, in the manner ofour late cucumbers for pickling. 

The season had been so unfavourable for wall-fruit, that (as thegardener told me) all these gardens had yielded less than a dozenpeaches and nectarines. 

The fruit was sent regularly to the Royal Family in Paris. 

There is a botanical garden at the _Petit Trianon_ in the park ofVersailles, but the person who shews it was out of the way, so that Idid not see it. 

I passed several mornings in the Botanical National Garden, (_ci-devantJardin du Roi_. ) That part of the garden which contains the botanicalcollection is separated from the other part, which is open to the publicat large, by iron palisades. The names of the plants are painted onsquare plates of tin, stuck in the ground on the side of each plant. Isaw a _Strelitzia_, which was there called _Ravenala_, (probably fromsome modern botanist's name) _Mr. Thouin_, who superintends this garden, said to me, "We will not have any aristocratic plants, neither will wecall the new Planet by any other name than that of its discoverer, _Herschel_. " I neglected to ask him why the plant might not retain itsoriginal and proper name of _Heliconia Bihai_?

[Illustration: ANASTATICA or ROSE of JERICHO]

I here found the _Anastatica Hierochuntica_ or _Rose of Jericho_, whichI sought for in vain for several years, and advertised for in the_Gentleman's Magazine_, for January 1791, and in the newspapers. Manydescriptions and figures of this plant are to be found in old books, andthe dried plants are frequently to be met with. Old _Gerard_ very justlysays, "The coiner spoiled the name in the mint, for of all plants thathave been written of, there is not any more unlike unto the rose. " Theannexed figure represents a single plant; it had been transplanted intoa deep pot, which had been filled with earth, so as to make it appearlike two plants. The stalks are shrubby, the leaves are fleshy, and of aglaucous or sea-green colour. The _corolla_ consists of four very smallwhite petals. Its scientific description may be found in _Linnæus_[12]. One of the _silicles_ is drawn magnified. 

[Note 12: _Genera plantarum_, 798. ]

Mr. Thouin pointed out to me a new and very beautiful species of_Zinnia_, of which the flower is twice the size of that of the commonsort, and of a deep purple colour: a new _verbascum_, from the Levant;it was about four feet high, the leaves were almost as woolly as thoseof the _Stachys lanata_, and terminated in a point like a spur; it hadnot yet flowered. And a new _solanum_, with spines the colour of gold. 

He recommended the flower of the _spilanthus brasiliana_, which ournurserymen call _Verbesina_ _acmella_ as an excellent dentifrice. 

I also found here the _amethystea, coerulea_: this annual has been lostin England above twenty years. [13]

[Note 13: The seeds which are sold in the London shops, for those ofthis plant, are those of the _hyssopus bracteatis_. ]

The _datura fastuosa_, the French call _Trompette du jugement à troisfleurs l'une dans l'autre_; I have myself raised these with tripleflowers, both purple and white, though some of our nurserymen pretendedthe flowers were never more than double. The _anthemis arabica_, a verysingular and pretty annual. A _zinnia hybrida_, which last has not yetbeen cultivated in England. Twenty-two sorts of _medicago polymorpha, (snails and hedgehogs_) of these I had seen only four in England. 

Here was a small single moss-rose plant, in a pot, which is the only oneI ever saw in France. The air is too hot for those roses, and for thesame reason none of the American plants, such as the _magnolia_ (tuliptree) _kalmia_, &c. Thrive in France, though kept in pots in the shadeand well watered; the heat of the atmosphere dries the trunk of thesetrees. But there are many other plants, to the growth of which theclimate is much more favourable than it is in England. In the open partof this garden are a great number of _bignonia-catalpa_ trees, whichwere then in flower, resembling horse-chesnut flowers at a distance, butmuch larger and more beautiful; and many _nerium oleander_ trees, inwooden chests; several of these trees are about eight feet high and thetrunk a foot in diameter; they were then full of flowers of all thesorts, single and double, red and white; these are placed in thegreen-house in the winter. 

On a mount in this garden is a _meridien sonnant_ (sounding meridian)this is an iron mortar which holds four pounds of gunpowder, it isloaded every morning, and exactly at noon the sun discharges the pieceby means of a burning glass, so placed that the _focus_ at that momentfires the powder in the touch-hole. The first meridian that was made ofthis kind is in the garden of the _Palais Royal_, at the top of one ofthe houses; I could not see it, but it is thus described in the _ParisGuide_: "The touch-hole of the cannon is two inches long and half a line(the twentieth part of an inch) broad, this length is placed in thedirection of the meridian line. Two _transoms_ or _cross-staves_ placedvertically on a horizontal plane, support a _lens_ or burning glass, which, by their means, is fixed according to the sun's height monthly, so as to cause the _focus_ to be exactly over the touch-hole at noon. Itis said to have been invented by _Rousseau_. " Small meridians of thissort are sold in the shops; these are dials of about a foot square, engraven on marble, with a little brass cannon and a _lens_. 

The market for plants and flowers in pots, and for nosegays, is kept onthe _Quai de la Megisserie_, twice a week, very early in the morning;the following were the most abundant: _Nerium_ double floweringpomegranate, _vinca rosea_, (Madagascar periwinkle) _prickly lantana, peruvian heliotropium_ (turnsole) tuberoses, with very large andnumerous single and double flowers, and very great quantities of commonsweet basil, which is much used in cookery. 

I visited the apothecaries garden, and also two or three nursery gardensin that neighbourhood, but found nothing remarkable in them. 

There are many gardens in the environs of Paris which are worthy ofnotice, but I was prevented from seeing them in consequence of thedisturbances hereafter mentioned. In the books which describe theseplaces, I find the village of _Montreuil-sous-le-Bois_ particularlymentioned on account of its fertility. In the _Tableau de Paris_ it issaid, "Three acres of ground produce to the proprietor twenty thousandlivres annually, (near 800 guineas. ) The rent of an acre is six hundredlivres, and the king's tax sixty (together about six and twentyguineas. ) The peaches which are produced here are the finest in theworld, and are sometimes sold for a crown a piece. When a prince hasgiven a splendid entertainment, three hundred Louis d'ors worth of thesefruits have been eaten. " It is situated on a hill, just above_Vincennes_, about three miles from the fauxbourg _Saint Antoine_, andis likewise celebrated for its grapes, strawberries, all sorts of wallfruit, pease, and every kind of esculent vegetables. In the gardencalled _Mouceaux_ which belongs to the _ci-devant Duke of Orleans_; atthe extremity of the _fauxbourg du Roule_ are, it is said, magnificenthot-houses, of which I have no recollection, though I was in the gardenin 1776. There is a description of these gardens in print, with sixteencopper plates. In the _Luxembourg_ gardens only common annuals weregrowing, such as marigolds, sun-flowers, &c. Probably self sown; neitherwere there in the _Tuileries_ gardens, which I afterwards saw, anyremarkable plants. 

I bought very large peaches in the markets at 30 _sous_ each, theordinary ones were at 10 _sols_. The melons (which are brought to marketin waggons, piled up like turnips in England) were all of the nettedsort, and of so little flavor, that they would not be worth cultivating, were it not for the sake of cooling the mouth in hot weather; they weresold at 15 or 20 sous each. Strawberries were still plentiful (secondweek in August. ) _Cerneaux_, which are the kernel of green walnuts, werejust coming into season. 

I had now no opportunity of acquiring any more knowledge of the plantsin France, and shall only add, that I passed the winter of 1783 and1784, at _Marseille_ and at _Hieres_; and that besides oranges, lemons, cedras, [14] pistachios, pomegranates, and a few date palm trees, Ifound several species of _geranium_, myrtles, and _cactus opuntia_, (Indian fig) growing in the soil, and likewise the _mimosa farnesiana_, sweet scented sponge tree, or fragrant acacia, the flowers of which arethere called _fleurs de cassier_; these flowers, together with those ofthe jasmine, and those which fall from the orange and lemon trees, aresold to the perfumers of _Provence_ and _Languedoc_. 

[Note 14: These trees are planted as close together as possible, hardly eight feet asunder, and no room is left for any walks, so thatthese gardens are, properly speaking, orange orchards. The oranges werethen sold at the rate of ten for a penny English. ]

Among the small plants, the _arum arisarum_, (friar's cowl) and the_ruscus aculeatus_ (butcher's broom) were the most conspicuous, thislatter is a pretty ever-green shrub, and the berries were there as largeas those of a common _solanum pseudo capsicum_, (Pliny's _amomum_, orwinter cherry) and of a bright scarlet colour, issuing from the middleof the under surface of the leaves; I never saw any of these berries anywhere else. _Parkinson_, in his _Theater of Plants_, 1640, says, afterdescribing three or four species of this genus, "They scarse beareflower, much lesse fruite, in our land. " Perhaps the berries mightripen in our hot-houses. 

Many _arbutus_, or strawberry-trees, grow here, but they are not equalin size and beauty to many which I saw both in Portugal and in Ireland. 

In 1784, _M. J. J. De St. Germain_, a nurseryman in the _Fauxbourg St. Antoine_, published a book in 8vo of 400 pages, entitled _Manuel desVegetaux_, or catalogue in Latin and French, of all the known plants, trees, and shrubs, in the world, arranged according to the system of_Linnæus_; those plants which grow near Paris are particularlyspecified, and a very copious French index is added to the Latin one. The author died a few years ago; the plants were sold, and the nurseryground is at present built upon. 

DOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY. 

LION Dogs and Cats are common in Paris. 

The lion-dog greatly resembles a lion in miniature; the hair of the forepart of its body is long, and curled, and the hinder part short; thenose is short, and the tail is long and tufted at the extremity; thesmallest are little larger than guinea-pigs; these are natives of Malta, and are the most valuable; those which are produced in France areconsiderably larger, and the breed degenerates very soon. Their generalcolour is white; they are frequently called _Lexicons_, which word isderived, not from a dictionary, but from a French compound word ofnearly the same sound, descriptive of one of their properties. 

The lion-cat comes originally from _Angora_, in _Syria_. It is muchlarger than the common cat; its hair is very long, especially about theneck, where it forms a fine ruff, of a silvery whiteness and silkytexture, that on the tail is three or four inches long; these catsfrequently spread their tails on their backs, as squirrels do. Thecolour is generally white, but sometimes light brown; they do not catchmice. This beautiful species does not degenerate speedily, and itappears to thrive better in Paris than in any other part of Europe. Thefigures of both these animals are in _Buffon's Natural History_. 

About the _Palais Royal_ persons are frequently found who offer for salewhite mice in cages; these are pretty little animals, their fur is snowwhite, and their eyes are red and sparkling. Other persons carried forsale canary-birds, linnets, and two or three other sorts of small birds, perched on their fingers; these birds had been rendered so tame thatthey did not attempt to fly away. 

But the greatest curiosity in Natural History which I saw there, was amale child with two heads and four arms; it was then three months old, the two faces were perfectly alike, the noses aquiline, the eyes blue, and the countenances pleasing; the two bodies were joined together atthe chest, and the remainder was just like that of a common male child;one navel, one belly, one _penis_ one _anus_, and two legs. The twobodies were face to face, so that they could embrace and kiss eachother; in their natural position they formed an angle of 65 degrees, like the letter Y. I remained above an hour with this child, it's motherand the nurse, and saw it suck at both breasts at the same time. It wastolerably strong, the skin was very soft, and almost transparent, thearms and legs were very lean, and the latter were crossed, and appearedincapable of being extended voluntarily; so that if the child shouldlive two or three years, which I do not think probable, it is not likelyit will ever be able to walk. One head would laugh while the othercried, one head would sleep whilst the other was awake; the inspirationand expiration of the breath, in each, was alternate, that is to say, one inspired while the other expired its breath. There was nothingremarkable in the mother (a peasant's wife) except her obstinacy inrefusing to disencumber these two poor heads from a couple of thickquilted blue sattin caps with which they had dressed them, and which Iendeavoured to convince both her and the nurse would heat the heads, soas to be the means of shortening the child's life, and consequently ofcurtailing the profits arising from this _unique_ exhibition. 

To this description an English physician, who likewise saw it, adds, "Itmust have had two brains, as motion and sensation were equal, andapparently perfect, in each head and chest, and in all the four arms. Ithad two hearts, and two sets of lungs; it had also two passages into thestomach, but, as was supposed, only one set of _abdominal viscera_, asthe belly was not larger than that of a common child of that age usuallyis. The hearts and arteries beat more strongly than was consistent witha long continuance of health. The action of the arteries was plainlyseen under the skin. "

Mr. Buffon, in the Supplement to his Natural History, has given thefigure and description of a monster something similar to this, part ofwhich description I shall give in a note, as a parallel to that of theliving child. [15]

[Note 15: "In 1701 there were born in Hungary two Girls who werejoined together by the loins; they lived above twenty-one years. Atseven years old they were shown almost all over Europe; at nine years ofage a priest purchased them, and placed them in a convent at Petersburg, where they remained till their death, which happened in 1723. An accountof them was found among the papers of the surgeon who attended theconvent, and was sent to the Royal Society of London in 1757. In thisaccount we are told, that one of these twins was called _Helen_, theother _Judith_. _Helen_ grew up and was very handy, _Judith_ was smallerand a little hump-backed. They were joined together by the reins, and inorder to see each other they could turn their heads only. There was onecommon _anus_, and of course there was only one common need of going tostool, but each had her separate urinary passage, and separate wants, which occasioned quarrels, because when the weakest was obliged toevacuate, the strongest, who sometimes would not stand still, pulled heraway; they perfectly agreed in every thing else, and appeared to loveeach other. When they were seen in front, they did not differ apparentlyfrom other women. At six years old _Judith_ lost the use of her leftside by a paralytick stroke; she never was perfectly cured, and her mindremained feeble and dull; on the contrary, _Helen_ was handsome, intelligent and even witty. They had the small-pox and the measles atthe same time, but all their other sicknesses indispositions happened toeach separately. _Judith_ was subject to a cough and a fever, whereas_Helen_ was generally in good health. When they had almost attained theage of twenty-two _Judith_ caught a fever, fell into a lethargy anddied. Poor _Helen_ was forced to follow her fate; three minutes beforethe death of _Judith_ she fell into an agony, and died nearly at thesame time. When they were dissected it was found, that each had her ownentrails perfect, and even, that each had a separate excretory conduit, which however terminated at the same _anus_. " _Linnæus_ has likewisedescribed this monster. Many figures of double children of differentkinds may be seen in _Licetus de Monstris_, 4to. 1665; and in the_Medical Miscellanies_, which were printed in Latin at Leipzig, inseveral quarto volumes, in 1673. ]

I went several times to the National Assembly; the _Tribunes_, or_Galleries_, (of which there are three) entered warmly, by applausesand by murmurs and hisses, into the affairs which were treated of. 

Letters are franked by the assembly as far as the frontiers, by beingstamped with red printers ink, _Ass. Nationale. _

About this time many hundreds of folio volumes of heraldry, and of theregisters of the nobility, were publicly burnt in _la Place Vendôme_, after due notice had been given of the time and place by advertisementspasted against the walls. A wicked wag observed, that it was a pity alltheir books of divinity, and almost all those of law and physic, werenot added to the pile but he comforted himself with reflecting that _çaviendra_. 

All the coats of arms which formerly decorated the gates of _Hôtels_ aretaken away, and even seals are at present engraven with cyphers only. 

_The Chevaliers de St. Louis_ still continue to wear the cross, or theribband, at the button-hole; all other orders of knighthood areabolished. No liveries are worn by servants, that badge of slavery islikewise abolished; and also all corporation companies, as well asevery other monopolizing society; and there are no longer any _Royal_tobacco nor salt shops. 

I went once to the _Café de la Regence_, [16] with the intention ofplaying a game at chess, but I found the chess-men so very littledifferent in colour, that I could not distinguish them sufficiently tobe able to play. It seems it is the fashion for chess-men at present tobe made of box-wood, and all nearly of the same colour. I then went toanother coffee-house frequented by chess-players, and here the matterwas worse; they had, in addition to the above-mentioned fashion, substituted the _cavalier_, or _knight_, for the _fou_, or _bishop_, andthe _bishop_ for the _knight_, so that I left them to fight their ownbattles. 

[Note 16: Rousseau used to play at chess here almost every day, which attracted such crowds of people to see him, that the _Lieutenantde Police_ was obliged to place a sentinel at the door. ]

Books of all sorts are printed without any _approbation_ or _privilêge_. Many are exposed on stalls, which are very improper for the public eye. One of these was called the _Private Life of the Queen_, in two volumes, with obscene prints. The book itself is contemptible and disgusting, andmight as well have been called the _Woman of Pleasure_. Of books of thissort I saw above thirty, with plates. Another was on a subject not fiteven to be mentioned. 

I read a small pamphlet, entitled "_le Christ-Roi_, or a Parallel of theSufferings of Lewis XVI. &c. " I can say nothing in favor of it. 

I found no new deistical books, the subject has already been exhausted, and every Frenchman is a philosopher now; it may be necessary here torecollect, that there are gradations in philosophy. 

Since the Revolution, monarchs and courts are not quite so respectfullymentioned in books as they were formerly. The following few examples aretaken from _Mr. Du Laure's_ Curiosities of Paris, in two volumes, 1791, third edition. [17] "Louis XIV. Has his bust in almost every street inParis. After the most trifling reparation of a street it was customaryto place his great wig-block (_tête à perruque_) there. The saints havenever obtained such multiplied statues. That bully (_Fanfaron_) as_Christina_, Queen of Sweden, used to call him, wanted to be adored evenin turn-again alleys (_culs-de-Sac. _") Courtiers are here termed_canaille de la cour_ (the rabble of the court;) the former aldermen ofParis (_echevins_) _machines à complimens_ (complimenting machines;) andmonks _des bourreaux encapuchonnés_ (cowled executioners. )

[Note 17: The same author has likewise published, _HistoricalSingularities_ of Paris, in a single volume, and a Description of theEnvirons, in two volumes, 1790. ]

All the following articles of information are taken from the same work:The colossal statue of _St. Christopher_ is no longer in the church of_Notre-Dame_; "He was, without doubt, the greatest _Saint Christopher_in all France. This ridiculous monument of the taste and devotion ofour ancestors has lately been demolished. "

"The court before the porch of this church was considerably enlarged in1748, and at the same time a fountain was destroyed, against whichleaned an old statue, which had successively been judged to be that of_Esculapius_, of _Mercury_, of a Mayor, and of a Bishop of Paris, andlastly, that of J. C. "

"Entering the street which leads to the _Pont-rouge_, by the cloistersof this church, the last house on the right, under the arcades, standswhere the canon _Fulbert_, uncle to _Eloisa_, lived. Although it hasbeen several times rebuilt during 600 years, there are still preservedtwo stone medallions, in _basso-relievo_, which are said to be the bustsof _Abelard_ and _Eloisa_. "

The number of inhabitants in Paris is computed at one million, onehundred and thirty thousand, (including one hundred and fifty thousandstrangers) two hundred thousand of which are, through poverty, exemptfrom the poll-tax, and two hundred thousand others are servants. 

In 1790 there were in Paris forty-eight convents of monks, containingnine hundred and nine men; the amount of their revenue was estimated attwo millions, seven hundred and sixty thousand livres; five abbeys orpriories, estimated at six hundred and twelve thousand livres;seventy-four convents of nuns, containing two thousand, two hundred andninety-two women, their income two millions and twenty-eight thousandlivres. When to these we add the revenue of the archbishoprick, and ofthe fifteen collegiate churches, of one million, six thousand and fivehundred livres, we shall have a total of upwards of seven millions oflivres for the former ecclesiastical revenue in Paris only. [18]

[Note 18: Almost £300, 000 sterling, about a tenth part of the Churchincome of the whole kingdom. The establishment for the Royal Family, orCivil List, is said to have been forty millions of livres. Thus theReligion and the Monarch cost one hundred and ten millions of livresannually (about five millions sterling) the greater part of which sum isnow appropriated to other uses. The convents are converted, orperverted, into secular useful buildings, and their inhabitants havebeen suffered to spend the remainder of their lives in their formeridleness, or to marry and mix with society. Annuities have been grantedto them from thirty-five to sixty louis per annum, according to theirage. ]

There are about six hundred coffee-houses in Paris. 

In the saloon of the _Louvre_ every other year is an exhibition ofpictures, in the months of August and September. 

The Pont-neuf is one hundred toises in length and twelve in breadth. [19]

[Note 19: 1020 feet by 72. Westminster-bridge is 1220 feet long, butonly 44 feet wide. ]

The cupola of the _Halle au Bled_, or corn and flour market, is onehundred and twenty feet in diameter; it forms a perfect half circle, whose centre is on a level with the cornice, forty feet from the ground. The vault or dome is composed merely of deal boards, four feet long, onefoot broad and an inch thick. [20]

[Note 20: The inner diameter of the dome of St. Peter's, at Rome, 138 feet, which is the same size as that of the pantheon in Rome. St. Paul's in London 108. The Invalids in Paris 50. ]

Describing the church of _St. John of the Minstrels_, so called, becauseit was founded by a couple of fidlers, in 1330. _M. Du Laure_ says, "Among the figures of saints with which the great door is decorated, oneis distinguished who would play very well on the fiddle, if hisfiddle-stick were not broken. "

There is a parcel-post as well as a letter penny-post in Paris. 

The salary of the executioner was eighteen thousand livres _per annum_;[21] his office was to break criminals on the wheel, and to inflictevery punishment on them which they were sentenced to undergo. 

[Note 21: £750 sterling; I know not the present salary. ]

There are no longer any _Espions de Police_, or spies, employed bygovernment. "That army of thieves, of cut-throats, and rascals, kept inpay by the ancient police, was perhaps a necessary evil in the midst ofthe general evil of our old administration. A body of rogues andtraitors could be protected by no other administration than such a oneas could only subsist by crimes and perfidy. Those were the odiousresources of despotism. Liberty ought to make use of simple and openmeans, which justice and morality will never disavow. "

There is a school at the point of the isle of St. Louis, in the river_Seine_, to teach swimming; persons who chuse to learn in private payfour _louis_, those who swim among others, half that sum, or half-crowna lesson; if they are not perfect in that art in a season, (five summermonths) they may attend the following season _gratis_. 

DRESS. INNS. 

THE common people are in general much better clothed than they werebefore the Revolution, which may be ascribed to their not being sogrievously taxed as they were. An English Gentleman who has gone formany years annually from Calais to Paris, remarks, that they are almostas well dressed on working days at present, as they were on Sundays andholidays formerly. 

All those ornaments which three years ago were worn of silver, are nowof gold. All the women of the lower class, even those who sit behindgreen-stalls, &c. Wear gold ear-rings, with large drops, some of whichcost two or three _louis_, and necklaces of the same. Many of the menwear plain gold ear-rings; those worn by officers and other gentlemenare usually as large as a half-crown piece. Even children of two yearsold have small gold drops in their ears. The general dress of the womenis white linen or muslin gowns, large caps which cover all their hair, excepting just a small triangular piece over the forehead, pomatumed, orrather plaistered and powdered, without any hats: neither do they wearany stays, but only _corsets_ (waistcoats or jumps. ) Tight lacing is notknown here, nor yet high and narrow heeled shoes. Because many of theladies _ci-devant_ of quality have emigrated or ran away, and that thosewhich remain in Paris, keep within doors, I saw no face that waspainted, excepting on the stage. Most of the men wear coats made likegreat-coats, or in other words, long great-coats, without any coat: thisin fine weather and in the middle of summer made them appear to me likeinvalides. There is hardly any possibility of distinguishing the rank ofeither man or woman by their dress at present, or rather, there are noranks to distinguish. 

The nation in general is much improved in cleanliness, and even inpoliteness. The French no longer look on every Englishman as a lord, butas their equal. 

The inns on the road from _Calais_ to _Paris_, are as well furnished, and the beds are as clean at present as almost any in England. At_Flixcourt_ especially, the beds are remarkably excellent, the furnitureelegant, and there is a profusion of marble and of looking-glasses inthis inn. The plates, dishes, and basons which I saw in cupboards, andon shelves in the kitchen, and which are not in constant use, were allof silver, to which being added the spoons and forks of the same metal, of which the landlord possesses a great number; the ladies and gentlemenwho were with me there, going to and returning from Paris, estimated thevalue at, perhaps, a thousand pounds sterling. Now, if we allow onlyhalf this sum to be the value, it is, notwithstanding, considerable. Every inn I entered was well supplied with silver spoons, of varioussizes, and with silver four pronged forks; even those pettyeating-houses in Paris, which were frequented by soldiers and_sans-culottes_. 

There are no beggars to be seen about the streets in Paris, and when thechaise stopped for fresh horses, only two or three old and infirm peoplesurrounded it and solicited charity, whereas formerly the beggars usedto assemble in hundreds. I did not see a single pair of _sabôts_(wooden-shoes) in France this time. The table of the peasants is alsobetter supplied than it was before the revolution. 

ASSIGNATS. 

EXCEPTING the coins which I purchased at the mint in Paris, I did notsee a piece of gold or silver of any kind; a few brass sols and two solswere sometimes to be found in the coffee-houses, and likewise_Mouneron's_ tokens. 

The most common _assignats_ or bills, are those of five _livres_, whichare printed on sheets; each sheet containing twenty of such _assignats_, or a hundred _livres_; they are cut out occasionally, when wanted forchange. I do not know that there are any of above a thousand _livres_. The lowest in value which I saw were of five _sols_, and these were ofparchment. Those of five _livres_ and upwards, have the king's portraitstamped on them, like that on the coins. 

Besides the national _assignats_, which are current all over France, every town has its own _assignats_, of and under, but not above five_livres_; these are only current in such town and its neighbourhood. 

The _assignats_ of and above five _livres_ are printed on white paper, those which are under, are for the convenience of the lower class ofpeople, of which few can read, printed on different coloured paperaccording to their value; for instance, those of ten _sols_ on bluepaper, those of thirty on red, &c. Though this method is not correctlyadhered to. 

I had projected many excursions in the neighbourhood of Paris, whichwere all put a stop to, in consequence of the events of the tenth ofAugust, of which I shall give a true and impartial narrative, carefullyavoiding every word which may appear to favour either party, and writingnot as a politician, but as a spectator. 

I had written many anecdotes, as well aristocratical as democratical, but as I was unable properly to authenticate some of them, and thatothers related to excesses which were inevitable, during such a time ofanarchy, I thought it not proper to prejudice the mind of the public, and have accordingly expunged them all. I have only recounted facts, andthe readers may form their own opinion. 

Some particulars relative to the massacre in August, 1572, are insertedto corroborate the description of the similar situation of Paris, inAugust, 1792, though not from similar causes. The execrable massacreabove-mentioned was committed by raging fanatics, cutting the throats oftheir defenceless fellow-creatures, merely for difference in religiousopinion. 

BATTLE AND MASSACRE AT THE TUILERIES. 

ON Thursday, the 9th of August, the legislative body completed thegeneral discontent of the people, (which had been raised the precedingday, by the discharge of every accusation against _la Fayette_) byappearing to protract the question relative to the king's _déchéance_(forfeiture) at a time when there was not a moment to lose, and by notholding any assembly in the evening. 

The fermentation increased every minute, in a very alarming manner. Themayor himself had declared to the representatives of the nation, that hecould not answer for the tranquillity of the city after midnight. Everybody knew that the people intended at that hour to ring the alarm-bell;and to go to the _château_ of the _Tuileries_, as it was suspected thatthe Royal Family intended to escape to Rouen, and it is said many trunkswere found, packed up and ready for taking away, and that many carriageswere seen that afternoon in the court-yard of the _Tuileries_. 

At eight in the evening the _generale_, (a sort of beat of drum) washeard in all the sections, the _tocsin_ was likewise rung, (an alarm, bypulling the bells of the churches, so as to cause the clappers to giveredoubled strokes in very quick time. Some bells were struck with largehammers. )

All the shops were shut, and also most of the great gates of the hotels;lights were placed in almost every window, and few of the inhabitantsretired to their repose: the night passed however without any otherdisturbance; many of the members of the National Assembly were sittingsoon after midnight, and the others were expected. _Mr. Petion_, themayor, had been sent for by the king, and was then in the _château_; thenumber of members necessary to form a sitting, being completed, the_tribunes_ (galleries) demanded and obtained a decree to oblige the_château_ to release its prey, the mayor; he soon after appeared at thebar, and from thence went to the _commune_ (mansion-house. )

It was now about six o'clock on Friday morning (10th) the people of the_fauxbourgs_ (suburbs) especially of _St. Antoine_ and _St. Marcel_, which are parted by the river, assembled together on the _Place de laBastille_, and the crowd was so great that twenty-five persons weresqueezed to death. [22] At seven the streets were filled with-armedcitizens, that is to say, with _federates_ (select persons sent from theprovinces to assist at the _Federation_, or confederacy held last July14) from _Marseille_, from _Bretagne_, with national guards, andParisian _sans-culottes_, (_without breeches_, these people have_breeches_, but this is the name which has been given to the mob. ) Thearms consisted of guns, with or without bayonets, pistols, sabres, swords, pikes, knives, scythes, saws, iron crows, wooden billets, inshort of every thing that could be used offensively. 

[Note 22: According to the _Journal de la seconde legislature_, _seance de la nuit_ II _Août_. ]

A party of these met a false patrol of twenty-two men, who, of course, did not know the watch-word. These were instantaneously put to death, their heads cut off and carried about the streets on pikes (_on promenaleurs têtes sur des piques. _) This happened in _la Place Vendôme_; theirbodies were still lying there the next day. Another false patrol, consisting of between two and three hundred men, with cannon, wanderedall night in the neighbourhood of the _theatre français_: it is saidthey were to join a detachment from the battalion of Henri IV. On the_Pont-neuf_, to cut the throats of _Petion_ and the _Marseillois_, whowere encamped on the _Pont St. Michel_ (the next bridge to the_Pont-neuf_) which caused the then acting parish assemblies to order anhonorary guard of 400 citizens, who were to be answerable for theliberty and the life of that magistrate, then in the council-chamber. _Mandat_, commander-general of the National Guard, had affronted _M. Petion_, when he came from the _château_ of the _Tuileries_, to go tothe National Assembly; he was arrested and sent to prison immediately. 

The insurrection now became general; the _Place du Carrousel_ (square ofthe _Carousals_, a square in the _Tuileries_, so called from themagnificent festival which Lewis XIV. In 1662, there gave to the queenand the queen-mother) was already filled; the king had not been in bed;all the night had probably been spent in combining a plan of defence, ifattacked, or rather of retreat; soon after seven the king, the queen, their two children (the dauphin, seven years old, and his sisterfourteen) Princess Elizabeth, (the queen's sister, about 50 years old)and the Princess _de Lamballe_, crossed the garden of the _Tuileries_, which was still shut, escorted by the National Guard, and by all theSwiss, and took refuge in the National Assembly, when the Swissreturned to their posts in the _château_. 

The alarm-bells, which were incessantly ringing, the accounts of thecarrying heads upon pikes, and of the march of almost all Paris in arms;the presence of the king, throwing himself, as it were, on the mercy ofthe legislative body; the fierce and determinate looks of the_galleries_; all these things together had such an effect on theNational Assembly, that it immediately decreed the suspension of LewisXVI. Which decree was received with universal applause and clapping. 

At this moment a wounded man rushed into the Assembly, crying, "We arebetrayed, to arms, to arms, the Swiss are firing on the citizens; theyhave already killed a hundred Marseillois. "

This was about nine o'clock. The democrats, that is to say, the armedcitizens, as beforementioned, had dragged several pieces of cannon, sixand four pounders, into the _carousel_ square, and were assembledthere, on the _quais_, the bridges, and neighbouring streets, in immensenumbers, all armed; they knew the king was gone to the NationalAssembly, and came to insist on his _déchéance_ (forfeiture) orresignation of the throne. All the Swiss (six or seven hundred) came outto them, and permitted them to enter into the court-yard of theTuileries, to the number of ten thousand, themselves standing in themiddle, and when they were peaceably smoking their pipes and drinkingtheir wine, the Swiss turned back to back, and fired a volley on them, by which about two hundred were killed;[23] the women and children ranimmediately into the river, up to their necks, many jumping from theparapets and from the bridges, many were drowned, and many were shot inthe water, and on the balustrades of the _Pont-royal_, from the windowsof the gallery of the _Louvre_. 

[Note 23: This is asserted on the authority of all the Frenchnewspapers, and of several eye-witnesses. It will never be possible toknow the exact truth, for the people here said to be the aggressors areall slain. --These Swiss had trusted that they would have been backed bythe National Guard, who, on the contrary, took the part of the people, and fired on the Swiss (who ran into the château as soon as they haddischarged their pieces) by which several were killed. ]

The populace now became, as it were, mad, they seized on five cannonthey found in the court yard, and turned them against the château; theyplanted some more cannon on the _Pont-royal_ and in the garden, twenty-two pieces in all, and attacked the château on three sides atonce. The Swiss continued their fire, and it is said they fired seventimes to the people's once; the Swiss had 36 rounds of powder, whereasthe people had hardly three or four. Expresses were sent several milesto the powder-mills, for more ammunition, even as far as _Essonne_, about twenty miles off, on the road to _Fontainebleau_. The peoplecontrived however to discharge their twenty-two cannon nine or tentimes. [24] From nine to twelve the firing was incessant; many waggonsand carts were constantly employed in carrying away the dead to a largeexcavation, formerly a stone quarry, at the back of the new church _dela Madeleine de la ville l'Eveque_ (part of the _Fauxbourg St. Honoré_, thus called. )

[Note 24: The balls did no other damage to the palace than breakingthe windows, and leaving impressions in the stones, perhaps an inch indepth. ]

Soon after noon the Swiss had exhausted all their powder, which thepopulace perceiving, they stormed the _château_, broke open the doors, and put every person they found to the sword, tumbling the bodies out ofthe windows into the garden, to the amount, it is supposed, of about twothousand, having lost four thousand on their own side. Among the slainin the _château_, were, it is asserted, about two hundred noblemen andthree bishops: all the furniture was destroyed, the looking-glassesbroken, in short, nothing left but the bare walls. 

Sixty of the Swiss endeavoured to escape through the gardens, but thehorse (_gendarmerie nationale_) rode round by the street of _St. Honoré_, and met them full butt at the end of the gardens; the Swissfired, killed five or six and twenty horses and about thirty men, andwere then immediately cut to pieces; the people likewise put the Swissporters at the _pont-tournant_ (turning bridge) to death, as well as allthey could find in the gardens and elsewhere: they then set fire to allthe _casernes_ (barracks) in the _carousel_, and afterwards got at thewine in the cellars of the château, all of which was immediately drank;many citizens were continually bringing into the National Assemblyjewels, gold, louis d'ors, plate, and papers, and many thieves were, assoon as discovered, instantly taken to lamp irons and hanged by theropes which suspend the lamps. This timely severity, it is supposed, saved Paris from an universal pillage. Fifty or sixty Swiss were hurriedby the populace to the _Place de Grêve_, and there cut to pieces. 

At about three o'clock in the afternoon every thing was tolerably quiet, and I ventured out for the first time that day. [25]

[Note 25: The whole of the foregoing account is taken from verbalinformation, and from all the French papers that could be procured. ]

The _quais_, the bridges, the gardens, and the immediate scene of battlewere covered with bodies, dead, dying, and drunk; many wounded and drunkdied in the night; the streets were filled with carts, carrying away thedead, with litters taking the wounded to hospitals; with women andchildren crying for the loss of their relations, with men, women, andchildren walking among and striding over the dead bodies, in silence, and with apparent unconcern; with troops of the _sans-culottes_ runningabout, covered with blood, and carrying, at the end of their bayonets, rags of the clothes which they had torn from the bodies of the deadSwiss, who were left stark naked in the gardens. [26]

[Note 26: Although I was not an eye-witness, I was however anear-witness of the engagement, being only half a mile distant from it. ]

One of these _sans-culottes_ was bragging that he had killed eight Swisswith his own hand. Another was observed lying wounded, all over blood, asleep or drunk, with a gun, pistols, a sabre, and a hatchet by him. 

The courage and ferocity of the women was this day very conspicuous; thefirst person that entered the _Tuileries_, after the firing ceased, wasa woman, named _Teroigne_, she had been very active in the riots at_Brussels_, a few years ago; she afterwards was in prison a twelvemonthat _Vienna_, and when she was released, after the death of the Emperor, went to _Geneva_, which city she was soon obliged to leave; she thencame to _Paris_, and headed the _Marseillois_; she began by cleaving thehead of a Swiss, who solicited her protection, and who wasinstantaneously cut in pieces by her followers. She is agreeable in herperson, which is small, and is about twenty-eight years of age. 

Many men, and also many women, as well of the order of _Poissardes_(which are a class almost of the same species and rank with ourfishwomen, and who are easily distinguished by their red cotton bibs andaprons) as others, ran about the gardens, ripping open the bellies, anddashing out the brains of several of the naked dead Swiss. [27]

[Note 27: At the taking of the Bastille, on the day of which onlyeighty-three persons were killed on the spot, though fifteen diedafterwards of their wounds, these _Poissardes_ were likewise foremost inbravery and in cruelty, so much, that the Parisians themselves ran awayfrom them as soon as they saw them at a distance. They are armed, somewith sabres and others with pikes. ]

At six in the evening I saw a troop of national guards and_sans-culottes_ kill a Swiss who was running away, by cleaving his skullwith a dozen sabres at once, on the _Pont-royal_, and then cast him intothe river, in less time than it takes to read this, and afterwards walkquietly on. 

The shops were shut all this day, and also the theatres; no coaches wereabout the streets, at least not near the place of carnage; the houseswere lighted up, and patroles paraded the streets all night. Not asingle house was pillaged. 

The barracks were still in flames, as well as the houses of the Swissporters at the end of the gardens; these last gave light to five or sixwaggons which were employed all night in carrying away the deadcarcases. 

STATUES PULLED DOWN. NEW NAMES. 

THE next day, Saturday the 11th, about an hundred Swiss who had not beenin the palace placed themselves under the protection of the NationalAssembly. They were sent to the _Palais Bourbon_ escorted by theMarseillois, with _Mr. Petion_ at their head, in order to be tried by acourt-martial. 

The people were now employed, some in hanging thieves, others with_Mademoiselle_ _Teroigne_ on horseback at their head, in pulling downthe statues of the French Kings. 

The first was the equestrian one in bronze of Lewis XV. In the square ofthe same name, at the end of the _Tuileries_ gardens; this was the workof _Bouchardon_, and was erected in 1763. At the corners of the pedestalwere the statues, also in bronze, of strength, peace, prudence, andjustice, by _Pigalle_. Many smiths were employed in filing the iron barswithin the horse's legs and feet, which fastened it to the marblepedestal, and the _sans-culottes_ pulled it down by ropes, and broke itto pieces; as likewise the four statues above-mentioned, the pedestal, and the new magnificent balustrade of white marble which surrounded it. 

The next was the equestrians statue of _Lewis XIV. _ in the _PlaceVendôme_, cast in bronze, in a single piece, by Keller, from the modelof Girardon; twenty men might with ease have sat round a table in thebelly of the horse; it stood on a pedestal of white marble of thirtyfeet in height, twenty-four in length, and thirteen in breadth. Thisstatue crushed a man to pieces by falling on him, which must beattributed to the inexperience of the _pullers-down_. 

The third was a pedestrian statue of _Lewis XIV. _ in the _PlaceVictoire_, of lead, gilt, on a pedestal of white marble; a wingedfigure, representing victory, with one hand placed a crown of laurels onhis head, and in the other held a bundle of palm and olive branches. Theking was represented treading on _Cerberus_ and the whole group was asingle cast. There were formerly four bronze slaves at the corners ofthe pedestal, each of twelve feet high; these were removed in 1790. Thewhole monument was thirty-five feet high, and was erected in 1689, atthe expence of the Duke _de la Feuillade_, who likewise left his duchyto his heirs, on condition that they should cause the whole group to benew gilt every twenty-five years; and who was buried under thepedestal. 

On Sunday the 12th, at about noon, the equestrian statue, in bronze, of_Henry IV. _ which was on the _Pont-neuf_, was pulled down; this waserected in 1635, and was the first of the kind in Paris. The horse wasbegun at Florence, by _Giovanni Bologna_, a pupil of _Michael Angelo_, finished by _Pietro Tacca_, and sent as a present to _Mary of Medicis_, widow of _Henry IV. _ Regent. It was shipped at _Leghorn_, and the vesselwhich contained it was lost on the coast of Normandy, near _Havre deGrace_, the horse remained a year in the sea, it was, however, got outand sent to Paris in 1614. 

This statue used to be the idol of the Parisians; immediately after therevolution it was decorated with the national cockade; during threeevenings after the federation, in 1790, magnificent festivals werecelebrated before it. 

It was broken in many pieces by the fall; the bronze was not half aninch thick, and the hollow part was filled up with brick earth. 

The fifth and last was overthrown in the afternoon of the same day; itwas situated in the _Place Royale_; it was an equestrian statue inbronze, of Lewis XIII. On a vast pedestal of white marble; it waserected in 1639. The horse was the work of _Daniel Volterra_; the figureof the king was by _Biard_. 

The people were several days employed in pulling down all the statuesand busts of kings and queens they could find. On the Monday I saw amarble or stone statue, as large as the life, tumbled from the top ofthe _Hôtel de Ville_ into the _Place de Grêve_, at that time full ofpeople, by which two men were killed, as I was told, and I did not wishto verify the assertion myself, but retired. 

They then proceeded to deface and efface every crown, every _fleur delis_, every inscription wherein the words king, queen, prince, royal, orthe like, were found. The hotels and lodging-houses were compelled toerase and change their names, that of the _Prince de Galles_ must becalled _de Galles_ only; that of _Bourbon_ must have a new name; a sign_au lys d'or_ (the golden lily) was pulled down; even billiard tablesare no longer _noble_ or _royal_. 

The _Pont-royal_, the new bridge of _Lewis XVI. _ the _Place desVictoires_, the _Place Royal_, the _Rue d'Artois, &c. _ have all newnames, which, added to the division of the kingdom into eighty-threedepartments, abolishing all the ancient noble names of _Bourgogne, Champagne, Provence, Languedoc, Bretagne, Navarre, Normandie, &c. _ andin their stead substituting such as these: _Ain, Aube, Aude, Cher, Creuse, Doubs, Eure, Gard, Gers, Indre, Lot, Orne, Sarte, Tarne, Var, &c. _ which are the names of insignificant rivers; to that of Paris intoforty-eight new sections, and to all titles being likewise abolished, makes it very difficult for a stranger to know any thing about thegeography of the kingdom, nor what were the _ci-devant_ titles of suchof the nobility as still remain in France, and who are at present onlyknown by their family names. 

BEHEADING. DEAD NAKED BODIES. 

BUT to return to those "active citizens, whom aristocratic insolence hasstiled _sans-culottes, brigands_. "[28]

[Note 28: These are the words of a French newspaper, called, _Journal universel, ou Revolutions des Royaumes, par J. P. Audarin_. No. 994, for Sunday, 12 August, 4th year of Liberty, under the motto ofLiberty, Patriotism and Truth. ]

On Sunday, they dragged a man to the _Hôtel de Ville_, before amagistrate, to be tried, for having stolen something in the _Tuileries_as they said. He was accordingly tried, searched, and nothing beingfound on him, was acquitted; _n'importe_, said these citizens, we musthave his head for all that, for we caught him in the act of stealing. They laid him on his back on the ground, and in the presence of thejudge, who had acquitted him, they sawed off his head in about a quarterof an hour, with an old notched scythe, and then gave it to the boys tocarry about on a pike, leaving the carcase in the justice-hall. [29]

[Note 29: This is inserted on the authority of a lady, a native ofthe French West-India isles, who resided in the same hotel with me, andwho, with two gentlemen who attended her, were witnesses to thistransaction, which they told to whoever chose to listen. ]

At the corner of almost every chief street is a black marble slab, inserted in the wall about ten feet high, on which is cut in largeletters, gilt, _Loix et actes de l'autorité publique_ (laws and acts ofthe public authority) and underneath are pasted the daily and sometimeshourly decrees and notices of the National Assembly. One of theseacquainted the citizens, that _Mandat_ (the former commander-general ofthe national guards) had yesterday undergone the punishment due to hiscrimes; that is to say, the people had cut off his head. 

During several days, after _the day I_ procured all the Parisnewspapers, about twenty, but all on the same side, as the people hadput the editors of the aristocratic papers, _hors d'état de parler_(prevented their speaking) by beheading one or two of them, anddestroying all their presses. 

They, about this time, hanged two money changers (people who gave paperfor _louis d'or_, crowns, and guineas) under the idea that the money wassent to the emigrants. 

On the Saturday morning, at seven, I was in the _Tuileries_ gardens;only thirty-eight dead naked bodies were still lying there; they werehowever covered where decency required; the people who stript them onthe preceding evening, having cut a gash in the belly, and left a bit ofthe shirt sticking to the carcase by means of the dried blood. I wastold, that the body of a lady had just been carried out of the_Carousel_ square; she was the only woman killed, and that probably byaccident. Here I had the pleasure of seeing many beautiful ladies (andugly ones too as I thought) walking arm in arm with their male friends, though so early in the morning, and forming little groups, occupied incontemplating the mangled naked and stiff carcases. 

The fair sex has been equally courageous and curious, in former times, in this as well as in other countries; and of this we shall produce afew instances, as follows:

COURAGE AND CURIOSITY OF THE FAIR SEX. MASSACRE IN 1572. 

ON the 24th of August, St. Bartholemew's day, 1572, the massacre of theHugonots or or Calvinists, began by the murder of Admiral _Coligni_ thesignal was to have been given at midnight; but _Catherine of Medicis_, mother to the then King Charles IX. (who was only two and twenty yearsof age) _hastened the signal more than an hour_, and endeavoured toencourage her son, by quoting a passage from a sermon: "What pity do wenot shew in being cruel? what cruelty would it not be to have pity?"

In _Mr. Wraxall's_ account of this massacre, in his _Memoirs of theKings of France of the Race of Valois_, compiled from all the Frenchhistorians, he says, _Soubise_, covered with wounds, after a long andgallant defence, was finally put to death under the queen-mother'swindows. The ladies of the court, from a savage and horrible curiosity, went to view his naked body, disfigured and bloody. 

"An Italian first cut off _Coligni's_ head, which was presented to_Catherine of Medicis_. The populace then exhausted all their brutal andunrestrained fury on the trunk. They cut off the hands, after which itwas left on a dunghill; in the afternoon they took it up again, draggedit three days in the dirt, then on the banks of the _Seine_, and lastlycarried it to _Montfaucon_ (an eminence between the _Fauxbourg St. Martin_ and the _Temple_, on which they erected a gallows. ) It was herehung by the feet with an iron chain, and a fire lighted under it, withwhich it was half roasted. In this situation the King and several of thecourtiers went to survey it. These remains were at length taken downprivately in the night, and interred at _Chantilly_. "

"During seven days the massacre did not cease, though its extreme furyspent itself in the two first. "

"Every enormity, every profanation, every atrocious crime, which zeal, revenge, and cruel policy are capable of influencing mankind to commit, stain the dreadful registers of this unhappy period. More than fivethousand persons of all ranks perished by various species of deaths. The_Seine_ was loaded with carcases floating on it, and _Charles_ fed hiseyes from the windows of the _Louvre_, with this unnatural andabominable spectacle of horror. A butcher who entered the palace duringthe heat of the massacre, boasted to his sovereign, baring his bloodyarm, that he himself had dispatched an hundred and fifty. "

"_Catherine of Medicis_, the presiding demon, who scattered destructionin so many shapes, was not melted into pity at the view of suchcomplicated and extensive misery; she gazed with savage satisfaction onthe head of _Coligni_ which was brought her. "

_Sully_ only slightly mentions this massacre of which he wasnotwithstanding an eye-witness, because he was but twelve years of age. 

_Mezeray_ gives the most circumstantial account of it; he says, "Thestreets were paved with dead or dying bodies, the _portes-cochêres_, (great gates of the hotels) were stopped up with them, there were heapsof them in the public squares, the street-kennels overflowed withblood, which ran gushing into the river. Six hundred houses werepillaged at different times, and four thousand persons were massacredwith all the inhumanity and all the tumult than can be imagined. "

"Among the slain was _Charles de Quelleue Pontivy_, likewise called_Soubise_, because he had married _Catherine_, only daughter and heiressof _Jean de Partenay_ Baron _de Soubise_: this Lady had entered anaction against him for impotence; His naked dead body being among othersdragged before the _Louvre_, there were ladies curious enough to examineleisurely, if they could discover the cause or the marks of the defeatof which he had been accused. "

_Brantome_, in his memoirs of _Charles IX. _ says, "As soon as it was daythe king looked out of the window, and seeing that many people wererunning away in the _fauxbourg St. Germain_, he took a large hunting_arquebuse_, and shot at them many times, but in vain, for the gun didnot carry so far. "[30]

[Note 30: The king was shooting from the _Louvre_, and the_Fauxbourg_ St. _Germain_ is on the other side of the river. ]

"He took great pleasure in seeing floating in the river, under hiswindows, more than four thousand dead bodies. "

A French writer, _Mr. Du Laure_, in a Description of Paris, justpublished, says, "About thirty thousand persons were killed on thatnight in Paris and in the country; few of the citizens but were eitherassassins or assassinated. Ambition, the hatred of the great, of awoman, the feebleness and cruelty of a king, the spirit of party, thefanaticism of the people, animated those scenes of horror, which do notdepose so much against the French nation, at that time governed bystrangers, as against the passions of the great, and the ill-directedzeal of the religion of an ignorant populace. "

A few more modern instances of female fortitude are given in a note. [31]

[Note 31: On the 28th of March, 1757, _Damiens_, who stabbed _Lewis_XV. Was executed in the _Place de Grêve_, four horses were to pull hisarms and legs from his body: they were fifty minutes pulling in vain, and at last his joints were obliged to be cut: he supported thesetorments patiently, and expired whilst the tendons of his shoulders werecutting, though he was living after his legs and thighs had been tornfrom his body; his right hand had previously been cut off. I was inParis in 1768, and then, and at various times since have been assured byeye-witnesses, that almost all the windows of the square where theexecution was performed were hired by ladies, at from two to ten _louis_each. 

Mr. Thicknesse in his "_Year's journey through France and Part ofSpain_, " in a letter dated _Dijon_, _ in Burgundy_, 1776, mentions a manwhom he saw broke alive on the wheel by, "the executioner and _hismother_, who assisted at this horrid business, these both seemed toenjoy the deadly office. "

I have formerly given an account of the Spanish ladies enjoying thebarbarities of the bull-fights. ]

MISCELLANIES. NUMBER OF SLAIN. 

ON that same Saturday morning the dead Swiss, the broken furniture ofthe palace, and the burning woodwork of the barracks, were all gatheredtogether in a vast heap, and set fire to. I saw this pile at twenty orthirty yards distance, and I was told that some of the women who werespectators took out an arm or a leg that was broiling, to taste: this Idid _not see_, but I see no reason for _not believing it_. 

On the afternoon of this day, the coffee-houses were, as usual, filledwith idle people, who amused themselves with playing at the baby-game of_domino_. 

No coaches except fiacres (hackney-coaches) were now to be seen aboutthe streets; the theatres continued on the following mornings toadvertise their performances, and in the afternoon fresh advertisementswere pasted over these, saying, there would be _relâche au theatre_(respite, intermission. ) A few days after, some of the theatresadvertised to perform for the benefit of the families of the slain, butfew persons attended the representation, through fear; because the_sans-culottes_ talked of pulling down all the theatres, which, theysaid, _gataient les moeurs_, (corrupted the morals) of the people. 

Ever since the 10th, I knew the barriers had been guarded, to preventany person from leaving Paris, but I now was informed that that had beenthe case, three days previous to that day, which may seem to imply thatsome apprehensions were formed, that violent measures would take placesomewhere. 

About this time the officers were obliged by the _sans-culottes_ to wearworsted instead of gold or silver shoulder-knots; and no more _cloudy_carriages were to be seen in the streets. 

Portraits of the king, with the body of a hog, and of the queen, withthat of a tygress were engraven and publicly sold. A book was published, entitled, _Crimes of Louis_ XVI. The author of which advertised that hewas then printing a book of the _Crimes of the Popes_, after which heintended to publish the crimes of all the potentates in Europe. 

As I could not get out of Paris, to make any little excursions tonursery and other gardens, to _Vincennes_, to _Montreuil_, and as theinhabitants of Paris were too much alarmed to retain any relish forsociety, (public places out of the question, ) I was desirous of gettingaway as soon as possible, and applied first to the usual officers for apass, which was refused. That of _Lord Gower_ (the ambassador) was atthis time of no use, but it became so afterwards, as shall be mentioned. 

On the Monday (13th August) I wrote a letter of about ten lines to thePresident of the National Assembly, soliciting a pass. This I carriedmyself, and sent it in by one of the clerks. The President immediatelyread the letter, and the Assembly decreed a pass for me; but the nextday, when I applied for it to the _comité de surveillance_, (committeeof inspection) it, or they, knew nothing of the matter. I then went tothe _mairie_ (mayoralty house) but in vain. 

Here an officer of the national guard who had been present during thewhole of the battle of the 10th, said to me, "La journeé a _eté un peuforte, nous avons eu plus de quinze cens des notres de tués_, " (the daywas rather warm; we have had more than fifteen hundred of our own peoplekilled. ) This was confirmed by many more of the officers there, withwhom I had a quarter of an hour's conversation, and they all estimatedthe number of the slain at above six thousand, which may probably beaccounted for in the following manner, but a demonstration isimpossible. 

Some assert that there were eight hundred Swiss soldiers in the_château_ of the _Tuileries_; others but five hundred: let us take themedium of six hundred and fifty. They had, as every one allows, six andthirty charges each, and they fired till their ammunition was expended. This makes above three and twenty thousand shot, every one of which musthave taken place, on a mob as thick as hailstones after a shower: butallowing for the Swiss themselves, who were killed during theengagement, which diminishes the number of shot, and then allowinglikewise, that of two thousand persons who were in the palace, we heresay nothing of the remaining thirteen or fourteen hundred, most of whomwere firing as well as they could, perhaps it may not appear exaggeratedto say, that out of above twenty thousand shot, four thousand must havetaken place mortally; and this includes the fifteen hundred of thenational guard, which were _certainly_ known to be missing. Of the othertwo thousand five hundred slain, the number could not so correctly beascertained, as they consisted of citizens without regimentals oruniform, and of _sans-culottes_, none of whom were registered. All thepersons in the palace were killed; of these, few, if any, were takenaway immediately, whereas when any of the adverse party were killed, there were people enough who were glad of the opportunity of escapingfrom this slaughter, by carrying away the corpse. We must then reflecton the number of waggons and carts employed all night in the sameoffices, and then we shall see great reason to double the number of theslain, as has been done in various publications. 

No idea of this number could be formed by seeing the field of battle, because several bodies were there lying in heaps, and of the others notabove two or three could be seen at a time, as the streets were afterthe engagement filled with spectators, who walked among and over thecarcases. 

Of the feelings of these spectators, I judge by my own: I might perhapshave disliked seeing a single dead body, but the great numberimmediately reconciled me to the sight. 

BREECHES. PIKES. NECESSARY PASSPORTS. 

ANOTHER particular relative to the _sans-culottes_ is their standard, being an old pair of breeches, which they carry on the top of a pike, thrust through the waistband: the _poissardes_ likewise use the samestandard, though it so happened that I never saw it. On the memorable20th of June last, a pike-man got on the top of the Tuileries, where hewaved the ensign, or rather shook the breeches to the populace. 

The pike-staves for the army are of different lengths; of six, nine, andtwelve feet: by this means three ranks of pike-bearers can use theirarms at once, with the points of the three rows of pikes evenlyextended. 

The letter which I had written to the President, notwithstanding itseventual ill success, caused several English persons jointly to write asomewhat similar letter; in which, after having represented that their_wives_ and children _wanted_ them, they said, they hoped their reasonswould appear _vrai-semblables_, or have the semblance of truth. TheAssembly on hearing this burst into a laugh, and passed on to the orderof the day. 

On the 16th I carried a passport from _Lord Gower_ to the office of _Mr. Le Brun_, the minister for foreign affairs; here I was told to leaveit, and I should have another in its stead the next day. The next day Iapplied for it, and was told, no passports could be delivered. 

The matter now appeared to me to become serious, as the courier who hadcarried the account of the affair of the 10th to London was not yetreturned, and that rumours were spread, that the English in Paris werealmost all _grands seigneurs & aristocrates_; so that I saw only twoprobable means of safety; one of which was, to draw up a petition to theNational Assembly, in behalf of all the British subjects, to get itsigned by as many as I could find, and who might chuse to sign it, andto carry it to the Assembly in a small body, which might have been themeans of procuring a pass; and in case this was refused, the other planwould have been for all the British to have incorporated themselves intoa _Legion Britannique_, and offered their services according to theexigence of the case. [32] This petition was accordingly, on the 18th, drawn up by a member of the English Parliament; translated into French, and carried about to be signed; when at the bankers we fortunately metwith a person who informed us, that our passes were ready at the moment, at _Mr. Le Brun's_: thither we went; I obtained my pass at two o'clockafternoon, the petition was torn and given to the winds; I took ahackney coach that instant, to carry me to the _Poste aux chevaux_, ordered the horses, and before three I was out of the barriers of Paris. 

[Note 32: Before, and on the 10th of August, there were not abovethirty British travellers in Paris, but after that day, in less than aweek it was supposed that above two thousand had from all parts of thekingdom resorted to the capital, in order to obtain passports to getaway. ]

Here follows a copy of my passport. 

At the top of the paper is an engraving of a shield, on which isinscribed _Vivre libre ou mourir_ (live free or die, ) supported by twofemale figures, the _dexter_ representing _Minerva_ standing, with thecap of liberty at the end of a pike; the _sinister_, the Frenchconstitution personified as a woman sitting on a lion, with one handholding a book, on which is written _Constitution Française, droits del'homme_, and with the other supporting a crown over the shield, whichcrown is effaced by a dash with a pen. 

Then follows:

_La nation, la loi, le roi_; this is also obliteratedwith a pen, and instead is written:

_Liberté, Egalité__Au nom de la nation_. 

À tous officiers, civils et militaires, chargés de surveiller et demaintenir l'ordre public dans les differents departemens du Royaume, età tous autres qu'il appartiendra il est ordonné de laisser librementpasser _T---- anglais retournant en angleterre, porteur d'un certificatde son ambassadeur_. [33] Sans donner ni souffrir qu'il lui soit donnéaucun empéchement, le present passe-port valable pour _quinze jours_seulement. 

Donné à _Paris_ le 16 aoust l'an 4 de la liberté

_Vû à la Mairie le_ 17 _aoust_ 1792. 

_L'an 4e de la liberté. _

_Petion_. 

[Note 33: What is here in italics is in manuscript in the original. There is no _Monsieur_ nor _Madame_, the word _anglais_ showing thegender of the person to whom the pass was granted, and is sufficient forthe purpose. ]

Here is an impression, in red wax, of the arms of Paris, which are_gules_, a three-mast ship in full sail, a chief _azur_, _semé_ with_fleurs de lis, or_, the shield environed with oak branches and the capof liberty as a crest. The inscription underneath is _Mairie de Paris_, 1789. On one side of this seal is an escutcheon with the arms of France, crowned, and over the crown there is a dash with a pen. And underneath, Gratis. Le ministre des affaires etrangeres. 

_Vu passer Abbeville en Le Brun_. _Conseil permanent le_ 20_Aoust_ 1792. 

Signed by a municipal officer. 

And on the back of the passport, _Vû au comité de la section poissonniere_ _ce 18 aoust_ 1792. 

Signed by two commissaries at the barriers of St. Denis, at Paris. 

_Permis d'embarquer à Calais le 22 aoust_ 1792. 

Signed by a Secretary. 

MISCELLANIES. DANCING. POULTRY. TAVERNS. WIG. 

SOME days before the demolition of the statue of _Henri_ IV. On the_Pont-neuf_, there was a flag placed near that statue, on which waspainted _citoyens la Patrie est en danger_; (citizens, themother-country is in danger) and it still remained there when I cameaway. 

On the Monday after _the_ Friday, I saw a paper on the walls, amongthose published by authority, wherein a person acquainted the public, that on the preceding Saturday, in consequence of some suspicions whichhad been entertained of his principles, his house had been visited byabove thirty thousand persons;[34] and that notwithstanding masons andsmiths had been employed in pulling down, breaking open andscrutinizing, the people had _found nothing_ to criminate him, and hehad _found nothing_ missing in consequence of their scrutiny. I had thepleasure of reading this aloud to an assemblage of elderly ladies, notone of whom could see to read it, as it was placed out of their _focus_, or too high, as they said. 

[Note 34: _Poco más o menos_, (a little more or less) as theSpaniards say when they are complimented with _Viva V. S. Mil años_ (mayyou live a thousand years. )]

Before the 10th I saw several dancing parties of the _Poissardes_ and_sans-culottes_ in the beer-houses, on the _Quai des Ormes_ and the_Quai St. Paul_, and have played the favourite and animating air of _çaira_, on the fiddle, to eight couple of dancers; the ceiling of theserooms (which open into the street) is not above ten feet high, and onthis ceiling (which is generally white washed) are the numbers 1 2 to 8, in black, and the same in red, which mark the places where the ladiesand gentlemen are to stand. When the dance was concluded I requested theladies to salute me (_m'embrasser_) which they did, by gently touchingmy cheek with their lips. But a period was put to all these amusementsby the occurrences of the 10th; after which day, most of my time wasemployed in endeavouring to obtain a passport. 

On the _Quai des Augustins_, at six or seven in the morning, may be seena market of above a quarter of a mile long, well stocked with fowls, pigeons, ducks, geese and turkies: these birds are all termed_Volaille_. Rabbits are likewise sold in this market. I also saw here afew live pheasants, red-legged partridges and quails in cages, forsale. 

I did not see a _louis d'or_ this time in Paris, it is probable that anew golden coin may be struck of a different value and name, and_without_ the name of the die-engraver. 

There are few, if any, _tables d'hôte_ (ordinaries) in Paris at present, except at the inns. I have not seen any for many years, because the hourof dining at them is about one o'clock, and that is customary to beserved in those coffee-houses which are kept by _restaurateurs andtraiteurs_ (cooks) after the English manner, at small tables, and thereare bills of fare, with the prices of the articles marked. The mostcelebrated of these houses is called _la Taverne de Londres_, in thegarden of the _Palais-Royal_: here are large public rooms, and also manysmall ones, and a bill of fare printed on a folio sheet, containingalmost every sort of provision, (carp, eels, and pickled salmon are theonly fish I have seen there. ) An Englishman may here have hisbeef-steak, plum-pudding, Cheshire cheese, porter and punch just as inLondon, and at about the same price, (half the price as the exchangethen was. ) Thirty-five sorts of wine are here enumerated. That of_Tokay_ is at two _livres_ for a small glass, of which a quart-bottlemay contain about fifteen. _Rhenish, Mountain, Alicante, Rota, _ and red_Frontignan_ at 6 livres. _Champagne, Claret, Hermitage, _ 4 _l. _ 10_f. __Port_ 3_l. _ 10_f. _ _Burgundy_ 3_l. _ _Porter_ 2_l. _ 10_f. _ Most of thedishes are of silver, and I dined at two or three other taverns whereall the dishes and plates were of silver. 

The barbers or hair-dressers have generally written on their sign _Icion rajeunit: rajeunir_ means properly to colour or die the hair, but inthis instance it only expresses, here people are made to look youngerthan they are, by having their hair dressed. I saw a peruke-maker's signrepresenting the fable of _the man and his two wives_, thus: Amiddle-aged gentleman is fitting in a magnificent apartment, between anold lady and a young one, fashionably dressed. His head is entirelybald, the old lady having just pulled out the black hairs, as the youngone did the grey: and Cupid is flying over his head, holding a niceperiwig ready to put on it. 

EXTENT, POPULATION, &C. OF FRANCE. 

THE authorities for a great part of what follows are _Mr. Rabaut's_History of the Revolution, 1792; _Mr. Du Laure's_ Paris, 1791, _Geographie de France_, 1792, second edition, and _Voyage dans lesDepartemens de la France_, 1792. 

France is a country which extends nine degrees from North to South, andbetween ten and eleven from East to West, making six and twenty thousandsquare leagues, and containing twenty-seven millions of people. In 1790, "There were four millions of armed men in France; three of thesemillions wore the uniform of the nation. " The number of warriors, orfighting men is very considerably increased since that time. 

"In this immense population is found at least three millions ofindividuals of different religions, whom the present catholicks lookupon with brotherly eyes. The protestant and the catholick now embraceeach other on the threshold where _Coligni_ was murdered; and thedisciples of _Calvin_ invoke the Eternal after their manner, within afew paces[35] of the balcony from whence _Charles IX. _ shot at hissubjects. "

[Note 35: The church of _St. Louis du Louvre_ is at present made useof as a place of worship by protestants. 

All the church lands are reverted to the nation. 

In a speech which the Abbé _Maury_ made in the National Assembly, abouttwo years ago, he estimated the value of the property belonging toecclesiasticks in France at two thousand two hundred millions of livres, _(Deux milliards deux cens millions_) near ninety-two millions sterling, the interest or produce of which, at 3-1/4 per cent. Per annum, amountsto the three millions beforementioned. 

France suffices to itself; it contains all the indigenous productions ofEurope. 

The French hope, that the number of foreigners who will resort to theircountry, after it shall be more settled, will abundantly compensate theloss of the emigrants. ]

The capital, when compared to London, for extent is as 264 to 195, (nearly as 7 to 5) that is to say, according to the calculationbeforementioned (p. 28) Paris stands on 6-99/121 square miles of ground, and London on 5-35/968. 

It contains a million and 130 thousand inhabitants, which is fiftythousand more than it did two years ago; these formerly inhabited_Versailles_, and left it at the time the court did. 

_Lyon_ contains 160 thousand persons. 

_Marseille_, the most populous, in proportion to the size, of any cityin Europe, contains, in a spot of little more than three miles incircumference, 120 thousand persons, which includes about 30, 000mariners on board of the ships in the harbour. [36]

[Note 36: I was there in 1768, and again in 1783 and 1784, abovefour months. People of all nations are there seen in their properhabits; all languages are spoken; it is a free port, and the staple ofthe Levant trade, as well as of the West-Indian commerce. --There areregular vessels which sail monthly to Constantinople. ]

_Bordeaux_, 100, 000. The population of many more cities is given in anote, [37] besides which there are others, the number of whoseinhabitants I cannot learn, such as _Toulouse, Toulon, Brest, Orange, Blois, Avignon_, &c. 

[Note 37: _Thousand_ must be read after all the following figures. 

_Dunkerque_ - 80|_Besançon_ - - 26|_La Rochelle_ - 16_Rouen_ - - - 73|_Aix_- - - - - 25|_Poitiers_ - - 16_Lille_ - - - 65|_Bourges_- - - 25|_Auxerre_ - - 16_Nantes_- - - 60|_Tours_ - - - 22|_Perpignan_- - 16_Nismes_- - - 50|_Arras_ - - - 22|_Chalons_ - - 15_Strasbourg_- - 46|_Limoges_- - - 22|_Beauvais_ - - 15_Amiens_- - - 44|_Abbeville_- - 20|_Riom_ - - - 15_Metz_ - - - 40|_Verdun_ - - - 20|_Nevers_- - - 14_Caen_ - - - 40|_Arles_- - - - 20|_Boulogne_ - - 12_Orleans_ - - 40|_Dijon_- - - - 20|_Bayonne_ - - 12_Rennes_- - - 35|_Valenciennes_ 20|_Soissons_ - - 12_Nancy_ - - - 34|_St. Malo_ - - 18|_Angoulême_- - 11_Montpellier_ - 32|_Beziers_- - - 18|_Pau_- - - - 11_Reims_ - - - 30|_Sedan_- - - - 18|_Alby_ - - - 10_Clermont_ - - 30|_Carcassonne_- 18|_Alais_ - - - 10_Troyes_- - - 30|_Havre de Grace_18|_Grasse_- - - 10_Grenoble_ - - 30|_Moulins_- - - 17|_Versailles_ - 10]

The nation gains five millions sterling _per annum_ by the reduction ofits expences, and by not having any unnecessary clergymen tomaintain, [38] and the forfeited estates of the emigrants are estimatedat immense sums. [39]

[Note 38: By a decree in November, 1789, no curate is to have lesssalary than fifty _Louis_ per annum, not including his house and garden. Many of the French at present think that clergymen should be retainedlike physicians, and paid by those only who want them. By this means, they say, religious quarrels would be avoided; of all quarrels the mostabsurd, because nobody can understand any thing about the matter. "Personne n'y entend rien. "]

[Note 39: The civil list mentioned in page 62, was according to theold establishment. In January, 1790, the king was requested to fix a sumfor the civil list himself, and in June following he sent a letter tothe National Assembly, demanding five and twenty millions of livres. Itwas decreed that instant. ]

The heavy taxes on salt (_la gabelle_) and on Tobacco are suppressed, and those two articles are allowed to be objects of commerce. [40]

[Note 40: Salt, which was formerly sold at fourteen _sols_ perpound, is now at a single sol. Tobacco is permitted to be cultivated by"whoever will. "]

"No city in the world can offer such a spectacle as that of Paris, agitated by some great passion, because in no other the communication isso speedy, and the spirits so active. Paris contains citizens from allthe provinces, and these various characters blended together compose thenational character, which is distinguished by a wonderful impetuosity. Whatever they will do is done. " Witness the taking of the _Bastille_ ina single day, which had formerly withstood the siege of a whole armyduring three and twenty days. And witness the 10th of August. 

I have been frequently told by persons in England, that a regular anddisciplined army may easily crush a herd of raw and inexperiencedrabble, such as they supposed the French were, although ten times morenumerous. This may possibly be the event in small numbers, but if westate the case with large numbers, for instance fifty thousand men ofthe greatest courage, and of the most perfect discipline, and who arefighting for pay, without any personal motive, against five hundredthousand men, whom we shall suppose utterly ignorant of the art of war, but who conceive they are fighting for their liberty and their country, for their families and their property, and then reflect on the courageand bravery of these very men, on their impetuosity, their_acharnement_, or desperate violence in fight, which may be compared tothe irresistible force of water-spouts, and of whirlwinds, it may notappear too partial to conjecture, that such persons may perceive somelittle reason for suspending, if not for altering, their opinion, [41]and may now estimate the degree of danger this nation may apprehendfrom the attacks of extraneous powers, _provided its own people areunanimous_. 

[Note 41: I saw many thousands of these men (from my windows) ontheir way to the _Tuileries_, early on _the_ Friday morning; their marchwas at the rate of perhaps five miles an hour, without running orlooking aside; and this was the pace they used when they carried headsupon pikes, and when they were in pursuit of important business, rushingalong the streets like a torrent, and attending wholly and solely to theobject they had in view. On such occasions, when I saw them approaching, I turned into some cross street till they were passed, not that I hadany thing to apprehend, but the being swept along with the crowd, andperhaps trampled upon. I cannot express what I felt on seeing suchimmense bodies of men so vigorously actuated by the same principle. Isaw also many thousands of volunteers going to join the armies at thefrontiers, marching along the _Boulevarts_, almost at the same pace, accompanied as far as the Barriers by their women, who were carryingtheir muskets for them; some with large sausages, pieces of cold meat, and loaves of bread, stuck on the bayonets, and all laughing, or singing_ça ira_. 

The French writers themselves say, "In all popular commotions the womenhave always shown the greatest boldness. "]

EMENDATIONS AND ADDITIONS. RETURN TO CALAIS. 

THE paragraph at the bottom of page 11, is intended to be merelydescriptive, but not ludicrous, so that the reader is requested toexpunge the word _night_. 

In the enumeration of the Bishopricks (page 14) I unaccountably omittedthe ten metropolitan sees, which are those of _Paris, Lyon, Bourdeaux, Rouen, Reims, Besançon, Bourges, Rennes, Aix_ and _Toulouse_: Thus thereare eighty-three bishopricks, or one for each department. 

After what is said (in page 89) relative to the division of the country, there should, in justice, be added: "To the confused medley of_Bailiwicks, Seneschal-jurisdictions, Elections, Generalities, Dioceses, Parliaments, Governments, &c. _ there succeeded a simple and uniformdivision; there were no longer any provinces, but only one family, onenation: France was the nation of eighty-three departments. "Notwithstanding this, I regret the ancient _names_ of the provinces. Theold _Atlas_ of France is become useless, as the whole of its geographyis altered. The land is at present divided into nine regions, and eachof these into nine departments; Paris and the country about ten milesaround (24 square leagues) forms one, and the Island of _Corsica_another department. In the modern _Atlas_, after every new name, is put_ci-devant_, and then the old name, thus: _Region du Levant, departementde la côte d'or, ci-devant Bourgogne_. I called one day, after dining ina tavern, for a bottle of wine of the _Departement de l'Aube, Region desSources, _ the landlord consulted his _Atlas_, and then brought thebottle of _Champagne_ I required. It will be some time before foreignersare sufficiently familiarized to the new phrases which must be used for_Gascon, Normand, Breton, Provençal, Picard, &c. _[42]

[Note 42: The author of the _Voyage de France_ says, "The actualdivision of France may appear to geographers as defective as the ancientone. Perhaps artists should have been more consulted. Then there wouldnot have been shown in it so much of the spirit of party, which, ingreat assemblies, too often smothers the voice of reason, nor so manyeffects of the ignorance of political measurers, who lightly stride overbarriers which nature has opposed to them, and who appear to haveforgotten the necessity of communications. "]

The following paragraphs are taken from the new _Voyage de France_. 

"During fourteen hundred years, priority in follies, in superstition, inignorance, in fanaticism, and in slavery, was the picture of France. Itwas just, therefore, that priority in philosophy, and in knowledge, should succeed to so many odious pre-eminences. "

"The French people, to whom liberty is now new, are like the waves ofthe sea, which roll long after the tempest has ceased: and of which theagitation is necessary to depose on the shores the scum which coversthem. "

"The confusion inseparable from a new order of things, has necessarilycaused Paris to swarm with vagabonds; so that far from being surprizedthat some crimes have been committed, we ought rather to wonder thatthey are not more frequent. "

"When _Louis XVI. _ was brought back to Paris (25 June, 1791) theinhabitants of _fauxbourgs_ pasted a placard (advertisement) against thewalls, saying, 'Whoever applauds him shall be cudgelled, whoever attackshim shall be hanged. ' An awful silence was observed. "

After the account of the Pantheon (p. 28) should be added: In April, 1791, the body or _Mirabeau_ was deposited here; and in July followingthat of _Voltaire_. Soon after this it was decreed, that _Rousseau_ hadmerited the honours due to great men, but that his ashes should remainwhere they were. 

To the lift of engravings of the _Maiden_ must be added another, prefixed to a little tract, called _Gibbet-Law_. 

By _premier An de l'Egalité_, (first year of Equality) it is not to beunderstood that every person in France is equal, but that as they haveno sovereign, no person is above, but every person is equally under theprotection of the law. This matter has been both misunderstood andmisrepresented in England. 

On the 18th I was out of the barriers of Paris by three in theafternoon, and proceeded to _Chantilly_, where we[43] arrived at nine, and remained for the night. We were informed that two hundred_Sans-culottes_ and _Marseillois_ had walk'd here from Paris, (28 miles)two or three days before, had pulled down an equestrian statue, (probably that of the Constable _de Montmorenci_) cut off a man's head, carried it about the streets on a pike, _à la mode de Paris_, caught andeat most of the carp which had been swimming in the ponds which surroundthe palace above a hundred years, were then in the stables and intendedto return to Paris the next day. They did no other damage to thebuilding than breaking the _Condé_ arms, which were carved in stone. 

[Note 43: The Gentleman who came with me, an English and an IrishGentleman, with their Ladies, in their own chaises. 

There is an octavo Description of _Chantilly_ just published, with amap, and twenty _mezzotinto_ views of the gardens. ]

The night of the next day we passed at _Flixcourt_, and that of theMonday at the Post-house, at the foot of the hill on which _Boulogne_ issituated. 

On Tuesday the 21st we arrived at Calais in the morning; the wind was soviolent and unfavorable that we were detained here till the 24th, whenwe failed, and had a passage of seven hours to Dover. 

There was nothing to remark on the road from Paris to Calais, exceptthat the harvest was not yet got in, for want of hands, that the cornwas _lodged_, and sowing itself again; that every person and thing wasas quiet as if nothing had happened in Paris, and that no one knew theparticulars of what _had_ happened. 

At Calais many person wore trowsers, after the fashion of the_Sans-culottes_. 

EPILOGUE. 

SOON after my return to London the two following paragraphs appeared inthe newspapers. 

 "T. Has been over to France, botanizing, and has gotten what he went to seek. "

 "I'll tell you, my Lord Fool, From this Nettle danger we pluck the _Flower_ safety. "

This I insert merely on account of the Bêtise of the quotation. TheDutch inscription on sticks of sealing-wax would have been asapplicable. 

 "T. The Tourist was the first to fly from Paris on the prospect of the tumults of the 10th of August. He is now writing a History of the Bloody Murders which distinguished that day. "

I suspect that the ingenious Genius who wrote this knew he was mistakingas to the former part of this paragraph. He may say _Trippist_ now. 

I should not have seen either of these, had they not been pointed out tome by some of my "damned good-natured friends. " I am in hopes of seeinga number of very pretty criticisms on the foregoing pages; many passageswere written purposely to catch critics, as honey catches gnats; ifjust, they shall be attended to, should there be another edition; andif they are merely absurd, they shall be collected, and faithfullypresented to the gentle reader. I have told the truth, and have not "setdown aught in malice. "

THE END. 

*** There are a few trifling typographical errors in the foregoingsheets, which I shall leave to the correction of the reader, as not oneof them affects the sense.