Transcriber's Note

The original text used both symbol and numbered footnote markers. Thistext maintains the distinction. Obvious typographical errors have beencorrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text alongwith a list of inconsistently spelled words. 

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 We may live without poetry, music, and art; We may live without conscience and live without heart; We may live without friends; we may live without books; But civilized man cannot live without _cooks_. He may live without books--what is knowledge but grieving? He may live without hope--what is hope but deceiving? He may live without love--what is passion but pining? But where is the man who can live without _dining_? OWEN MEREDITH'S "LUCILE. "

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 A POETICAL COOK-BOOK. 

 BY

 [Illustration: Author's initials]

 "I REQUEST you will prepare To your own taste the bill of fare; At present, if to judge I'm able, The finest works are of the table. I should prefer the cook just now To Rubens or to Gerard Dow. "

 PHILADELPHIA:

 [Colophon]

 CAXTON PRESS OF C. SHERMAN, SON & CO. 1864. 

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1864, BY MARIA J. MOSS, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for theEastern District of Pennsylvania. 

DEDICATION. 

 "What's under this cover? For cookery's a secret. "--MOORE. 

When I wrote the following pages, some years back at Oak Lodge, as apastime, I did not think it would be of service to my fellow-creatures, for our suffering soldiers, the sick, wounded, and needy, who have sonobly fought our country's cause, to maintain the flag of our greatRepublic, and to prove among Nations that a Free Republic is not a myth. With these few words I dedicate this book to the SANITARY FAIR to beheld in Philadelphia, June, 1864. 

March, 1864. 

 Through tomes of fable and of dream I sought an eligible theme; But none I found, or found them shared Already by some happier bard, Till settling on the current year I found the far-sought treasure near. A theme for poetry, you see-- A theme t' ennoble even me, In memorable forty-three. 

 Oh, Dick! you may talk of your writing and reading, Your logic and Greek, but there is nothing like feeding. MOORE. 

 Upon singing and cookery, Bobby, of course, Standing up for the latter Fine Art in full force. MOORE. 

 Are these the _choice dishes_ the Doctor has sent us? Heaven sends us good meats, but the Devil sends cooks. That my life, like the German, may be "Du lit a la table, de la table au lit. "--MOORE. 

TO THE READER. 

 Though cooks are often men of pregnant wit, Through niceness of their subject few have writ. 'Tis a sage question, if the art of cooks Is lodg'd by nature or attain'd by books? That man will never frame a noble treat, Whose whole dependence lies in some _receipt_. Then by pure nature everything is spoil'd, -- She knows no more than stew'd, bak'd, roast, and boil'd. When art and nature join, the effect will be, Some nice _ragout_, or _charming fricasee_. What earth and waters breed, or air inspires, Man for his palate fits by torturing fires. But, though my edge be not too nicely set, Yet I another's appetite may whet; May teach him when to buy, when season's pass'd, What's stale, what choice, what plentiful, what waste, And lead him through the various maze of taste. The fundamental principle of all Is what ingenious cooks the _relish_ call; For when the market sends in loads of food, They all are tasteless till _that_ makes them good. Besides, 'tis no ignoble piece of care, To know for whom it is you would prepare. You'd please a friend, or reconcile a brother, A testy father, or a haughty mother; Would mollify a judge, would cram a squire, Or else some smiles from court you would desire; Or would, perhaps, some hasty supper give, To show the splendid state in which you live. Pursuant to that interest you propose, Must all your wines and all your meat be chose. Tables should be like pictures to the sight, Some dishes cast in shade, some spread in light; Some at a distance brighten, some near hand, Where ease may all their delicace command; Some should be moved when broken, others last Through the whole treat, incentive to the taste. Locket, by many labors feeble grown, Up from the kitchen call'd his eldest son; Though wise thyself (says he), though taught by me, Yet fix this sentence in thy memory: There are some certain things that don't excel, And yet we say are tolerably well. There's many worthy men a lawyer prize, Whom they distinguish as of middle size, For pleading well at bar or turning books; But this is not, my son, the fate of cooks, From whose mysterious art true pleasure springs, To stall of garters, and to throne of kings. A simple scene, a disobliging song, Which no way to the main design belong, Or were they absent never would be miss'd, Have made a well-wrought comedy be hiss'd; So in a feast, no intermediate fault Will be allow'd; but if not best, 'tis nought. If you, perhaps, would try some dish unknown, Which more peculiarly you'd make your own, Like ancient sailors, still regard the coast, -- By venturing out too far you may be lost. By roasting that which your forefathers boil'd, And broiling what they roasted, much is spoil'd. That cook to American palates is complete, Whose savory hand gives turn to common meat. Far from your parlor have your kitchen placed, Dainties may in their working be disgraced. In private draw your poultry, clean your tripe, And from your eels their slimy substance wipe. Let cruel offices be done by night, For they who like the thing abhor the sight. 'Tis by his cleanliness a cook must please; A kitchen will admit of no disease. Were Horace, that great master, now alive, A feast with wit and judgment he'd contrive, As thus: Supposing that you would rehearse A labor'd work, and every dish a verse, He'd say, "Mend this and t'other line and this. " If after trial it were still amiss, He'd bid you give it a new turn of face, Or set some dish more curious in its place. If you persist, he would not strive to move A passion so delightful as self-love. Cooks garnish out some tables, some they fill, Or in a prudent mixture show their skill. Clog not your constant meals; for dishes few Increase the appetite when choice and new. E'en they who will extravagance profess, Have still an inward hatred for excess. Meat forced too much, untouch'd at table lies; Few care for carving trifles in disguise, Or that fantastic dish some call _surprise_. When pleasures to the eye and palate meet, That cook has render'd his great work complete; His glory far, like _sirloin knighthood_[xi-1] flies Immortal made, as _Kit-cat_ by his pies. Next, let discretion moderate your cost, And when you treat, three courses be the most. Let never fresh machines your pastry try, Unless grandees or magistrates are by, Then you may put _a dwarf into a pie_. [xi-2] Crowd not your table; let your number be Not more than seven, and never less than three. 'Tis the _dessert_ that graces all the feast, For an ill end disparages the rest. A thousand things well done, and one forgot, Defaces obligation by that blot. Make your transparent sweetmeats truly nice With Indian sugar and Arabian spice. And let your various creams encircled be With swelling fruit just ravish'd from the tree. The feast now done, discourses are renewed, And witty arguments with mirth pursued; The cheerful master, 'midst his jovial friends, His glass to their best wishes recommends. The grace cup follows: To the President's health And to the country; Plenty, Peace, and Wealth! Performing, then, the piety of grace, Each man that pleases reassumes his place; While at his gate, from such abundant store, He showers his godlike blessings on the poor. 

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FOOTNOTES:

[xi-1] Charles I, dining one day off of a loin of beef, was so muchpleased with it, knighted it. 

[xi-2] In the reign of Charles I, Jeffry Hudson (then seven or eightyears old, and but eighteen inches in height) was served up to table ina cold pie at the Duke of Buckingham's, and as soon as he made hisappearance was presented to the Queen. 

"Despise not my good counsel. "

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS

FOR THE USE OF THE

MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. 

The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare andgood management of the house depend on the eye of the superior, and, consequently, that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby wastemay be avoided. 

Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct andpropriety of female arrangement, as to the knowledge and activity of thefather. 

All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness, --sugars ofdifferent qualities should be broken; currants washed, picked and dry ina jar; spice pounded, &c. Every article should be kept in that placebest suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided. Vegetableswill keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded. Dried meats, hams, &c. , the same. All sorts of seeds for puddings, rice, &c. , shouldbe close-covered, to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in acool, perfectly dry room, and the bag being tied should be changedupside down and back every week, and well shaken. Carrots, parsnips, andbeet-roots should be kept in sand for winter use, and neither they norpotatoes be cleared from the earth. Store onions preserve best hung upin a dry room. Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent amusty taste. Tarragon gives the flavor of French cookery, and in highgravies should be added only a short time before serving. 

Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used whenherbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent. 

Celery seeds give the flavor of the plant to soups. Parsley should becut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very cool oven; itpreserves its flavor and color, and is very useful in winter. Artichokebottoms, which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper bags, andtruffles, lemon-peel, &c. , in a very dry place, ticketed. 

Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air: where the formerare much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock-jar, toprevent frequent opening. 

Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared first, topreserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and, when squeezed, thepulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating. 

If for boiling any liquid, the first way is best. When whites of eggsare used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to have pudding, custards, &c. , to employ the yolks also. 

Gravies or soups put by, should be daily changed into fresh scaldedpans. 

If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. , be suffered to boil over, the strength is lost. 

The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for thecollared things, &c. , which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, givean unpleasant flavor when next used. 

Hard water spoils the color of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash or saltof wormwood will prevent that effect. 

When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton come in, part of the suetmay be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will basteeverything as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchenpies nothing else should be used. 

Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in coldwater two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced;when put into hot water, or to the fire until thawed, no heat willdress them properly. 

Meat should be well examined when it comes in, in warm weather. In theheight of the summer it is a very safe way to let meat that is to besalted lie an hour in cold water; then wipe it perfectly dry, and haveready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handfulover it besides. Turn it every day and rub the pickle in, which willmake it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired tobe very much corned, wrap it in a well-floured cloth, having rubbed itpreviously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit fortable the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when thewater boils. 

If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or threedays before it be salted. 

The water in which meat has been boiled makes an excellent soup for thepoor, when vegetables, oatmeal, or peas are added, and should not becleared from the fat. Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make finepeas soup, and should be boiled with the peas the day before eaten, thatthe fat may be removed. The mistress of the house will find many greatadvantages in visiting her larder daily before she orders the bill offare; she will see what things require dressing, and thereby guardagainst their being spoiled. Many articles may be redressed in adifferent form from that in which they are first served, an improve theappearance of the table without increasing the expense. 

In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cuttingout most advantageously, and affording most nourishment. 

Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price;but having more solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice, however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed aspalatably, and being cheaper ought to be bought in turn; and whenweighed with the prime pieces, the price of the latter is reduced. 

In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be takenout, being apt to taint, as likewise the kernels of beef. 

Rumps and aitch bones of beef are often bruised by the blows the droversgive, and that part always taints: avoid purchasing such. 

The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and after soaking andbruising may be added to give richness to gravies and soups, and theyare particularly nourishing for the sick. 

Calves' tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed withthe brains, which may be served without. 

Some people like neats' tongues cured with the root, in which case theylook much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must becut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking awaythe fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, andextremely well cleaned before it be dressed; and the tongue laid in saltfor a night and day before pickled. 

Great attention is requisite in salting meat, and in the country, wheregreat quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef andpork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain, before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansingthe meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong; it shouldbe turned daily, and, if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub may be used, and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt willfind it well to boil up the pickle, skim, and when cold pour it overmeat that has been sprinkled and drained. In some families great loss issustained by the spoiling of meat. If meat is brought from a distance inwarm weather, the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bringit early in the morning. 

Mutton will keep long, by washing with vinegar the broad end of the leg;if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with salt lightly, it will not eat the worse. Game is brought in when not likely to keep aday, in the cook's apprehension, yet may be preserved two or three daysif wanted, by the following method:

If birds (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn), drawthem, pick and take out the crop, wash them in two or three waters, andrub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boilingwater, put the birds in it, and let them remain five minutes, moving it, that it may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by theheads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks; whento be roasted, wash, to take off the pepper. The most delicate birds, even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid. 

Birds that live by suction, &c. , bear being high: it is probable thatthe heat might cause them to taint more, as a free passage for thescalding water could not be obtained. 

Fresh-water fish has often a muddy taste, to take off which, soak it instrong salt and water; or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald inthe same, after extremely good cleaning and washing. 

In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantitiesmay be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to thediscretion of the persons who use them. 

The different taste of people requires more or less of the flavor ofspices, garlic, butter, &c. , which can never be directed by generalrules, and if the cook has not a good taste, and attention to that ofher employers, not all the ingredients with which nature or art canfurnish her will give an exquisite relish to her dishes. 

The proper articles should be at hand, and she must proportion themuntil the true zest be obtained. 

March, 1864. 

Poetical Cook-Book. 

SOUPS. 

TURTLE SOUP. 

 Sons of Apicius! say, can Europe's seas, Can aught the edible creation yield Compare with _turtle_, boast of land and wave? GRAINGER. 

 And, zounds! who would grudge _Turtle soup_, though it came to five guineas the bowl? MOORE. 

The day before you dress a turtle, chop the herbs, and make theforcemeat; then, on the preceding evening, suspend the turtle by the twohind fins with a cord, and put one round the neck with a heavy weightattached to it to draw out the neck, that the head may be cut off withmore ease; let the turtle hang all night, in which time the blood willbe well drained from the body. Then, early in the morning, having yourstoves and plenty of hot water in readiness, take the turtle, lay it onthe table on its back, and with a strong pointed knife cut round theunder shell (which is the callipee), --there are joints at each end, which must be carefully found, --gently separating it from the callipash(which is the upper shell); be careful that in cutting out the gut youdo not break the gall. When the callipee and the callipash are perfectlyseparated, take out that part of the gut that leads from the throat;that with the hearts put into a basin of water by themselves, the otherinterior part put away. Take the callipee, and cut off the meat whichadheres to it in four quarters, laying it on a clean dish. Take twentypounds of veal, chop it up, and set it in a large pot, as directed forespagnoles, putting in the flesh of the turtle at the same time, withall kinds of turtle herbs, carrots, onions, one pound and a half of leanham, peppercorns, salt, and a little spice, and two bay leaves, leavingit to stew till it take the color of espagnole; put the fins--the skinscalded off--and hearts in, half an hour before you fill it, with halfwater, and half beef stock, then carefully skim it; put in a bunch ofparsley, and let it boil gently like consommé. While the turtle isstewing, carefully scald the head, the callipee, and all that is soft ofthe callipash, attentively observing to take off the smallest skin thatmay remain; put them with the gut into a large pot of water to boil tilltender; when so, take them out and cut them in squares, putting them ina basin by themselves till wanted for the soup. The next thing is thethickening of the soup, which must be prepared in the same manner assauce tournée. The turtle being well done, take out the fins and hearts, and lay them on a dish; the whole of the liquor must pass through asieve into a large pan; then with a ladle take off all the fat, put itinto a basin, then mix in the turtle liquor (a small quantity at atime), with the thickening made the same as tournée; but it does notrequire to, neither must it, be one-twentieth part as thick. Set it overa brisk fire, and continue stirring till it boils. When it has boiledgently for one hour put in the callipee and callipash with the guts, hearts, and some of the best of the meat and head, all cut in squares, with the forcemeat balls and herbs, which you should have ready choppedand stewed in espagnole; the herbs and parsley, lemon, thyme, marjoram, basil, savory, and a few chopped mushrooms. 

It must be carefully attended to and skimmed, and one hour and a halfbefore dinner put in a bottle of Madeira wine, and nearly half a bottleof brandy, keeping it continually boiling gently, and skimming it, thentake a basin, put a little cayenne into it, with the juice of six lemonssqueezed through a sieve. When the dinner is wanted, skim the turtle, stir it well up, and put a little salt, if necessary; then stir thecayenne and lemon juice in, and ladle it into the tureen. This receiptwill answer for a turtle between fifty and sixty pounds. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

 The _chicken broth_ was brought at nine; He then arose to ham and wine, And, with a philosophic air, Decided on the bill of fare. 

Take the remaining parts of a chicken from which panada has been made, all but the rump; skin, and put them into the water it was first boiledin, with the addition of a little mace, onion, and a few pepper-corns, and simmer it. When of a good flavor, put to it a quarter of an ounce ofsweet almond beaten with a spoonful of water; boil it a little while, and when cold take off the fat. 

FISH. 

TO STEW FISH WHITE. 

 His soup scientific, --his _fishes_ quite prime; His patés superb, and his cutlets sublime. MOORE. 

Let your fish be cleaned and salted; save your melts or kows. Cut threeonions and parsley root, boil them in a pint of water; cut your fish inpieces to suit; take some clever sized pieces, cut them from the bone, chop them fine, mix with them the melts, crumbs of bread, a littleginger, one egg well beaten, leeks, green parsley, all made fine; takesome bread, and make them in small balls; lay your fish in your stewpan, layer of fish and layer of onions; sprinkle with ginger, pour cold waterover to cover your fish; let it boil till done, then lay your fishnicely on a dish. To make the sauce, take the juice of a large lemon andyolk of an egg, well beaten together, teaspoonful of flour; mix itgradually with half a pint of the water the fish was done in, then withall your water put in your balls; let it boil very quick; when donethrow the balls and gravy over your fish. 

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW FISH. 

 Behold, the dishes due appear! _Fish_ in the van, beef in the rear. Ah! all the luxury of fish, With scalding sauce. 

Boil six onions in water till tender, strain, and cut them in slices. Put your fish, cut in slices, in a stewpan with a quart of water, salt, pepper, ginger and mace to suit taste; let it boil fifteen minutes; addthe onions, and forcemeat balls made of chopped fish, grated bread, chopped onion, parsley, marjoram, mace, pepper, ginger and salt, andfive eggs beat up with a spoon into balls, and drop them into the pan offish when boiling; cover close for ten minutes, take it off the fire, and then add six eggs with the juice of five lemons; stir the gravy veryslowly, add chopped parsley, and let it all simmer on a slow fire, keeping the pan in motion until it just boils, when it must be taken offquickly, or the sauce will break. A little butter or sweet oil added tothe balls is an improvement. If you meet with good success in thecooking of this receipt, you will often have stewed fish. 

PERCH WITH WINE. 

 Here haddock, hake, and flounders are, And eels, and _perch_, and cod. GREEN. 

Having scalded and taken out the gills, put the perch into a stew-pan, with equal quantities of stock and white wine, a bay leaf, a clove ofgarlic, a bunch of parsley, and scallions, two cloves, and some salt. 

When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dregs of whichmix with some butter and a little flour; beat these up, set them on thefire, stewing till quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ballof anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish them with the abovesauce. 

TO STEW FISH BROWN. 

 Here stay thy haste, And with the _savory fish_ indulge thy taste. GAY. 

Have your fish cleaned, the melts or kows being taken out whole; saltyour fish, and let it lay half an hour. Cut your onions in slices, frythem with parsley-root, cut in long thin slices, in half a teacup ofsweet oil, till they become a fine brown. Wash and dry your fish, cut itin pieces, put it in your stewpan, layer of fish and layer of brownedonion, &c. Take a quart of beer, half a pint of vinegar, quarter poundof sugar, two tablespoonfuls powdered ginger, mixed well together, pourover your fish till covered. When putting your fish in the pan, splitthe head in two, and place it at the bottom, the smaller pieces on thetop, the rows uppermost; let them cook very quick. Take out your fish, lay it nicely on a dish, mix a little flour in your gravy, give it aboil, throw it over the fish, and let it stand to cool. 

ROASTED STURGEON. 

 Your betters will despise you, if they see Things that are far surpassing your degree; Therefore beyond your substance never treat; 'Tis plenty, in small fortune, to be neat; A widow has cold pie, nurse gives you cake, From generous merchants ham or _sturgeon_ take. KING. 

Take a large piece of sturgeon, or a whole small one, clean and skin itproperly, lard it with eel and anchovies, and marinade it in a whitewine marmalade. Fasten it to the spit and roast it, basting frequentlywith the marinade strained. Let the fish be a nice color, and serve witha pepper sauce. 

BOILED SALMON. 

 Red speckled trouts, the _salmon's_ silver jole, The jointed lobster and unscaly sole, And luscious scallops to allure the tastes Of rigid zealots to delicious feasts; Wednesdays and Fridays, you'll observe from hence, Days when our sins were doomed to abstinence. GAY. 

Put on a fish-kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmonyou are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well(boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils put in ahandful of salt, take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fishwell washed, put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently. Salmon requires as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of an hour to apound of meat; but practice can only perfect the cook in dressingsalmon. 

A quarter of a salmon will take as long boiling as half a one. You mustconsider the thickness, not the weight. 

_Obs. _ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest, and if you have a"grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin. 

Lobster sauce and rye bread should be eaten with boiled salmon. 

BOILED LOBSTER. 

 But soon, like _lobster boil'd_, the morn From black to red began to turn. BUTLER. 

Those of the middle size are best. The male lobster is preferred to eat, and the female to make sauce of. Set on a pot with water, salted inproportion of a tablespoonful of salt to a quart of water. When thewater boils, put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour toan hour, according to its size; wipe all the scum off it, and rub theshell with a little butter or sweet oil, break off the great claws, crack them carefully in each joint, so that they may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and sendthe body whole. 

OYSTERS. 

 The man had sure a palate cover'd o'er With brass or steel, that on the rocky shore First broke the oozy _oyster's_ pearly coat, And risk'd the living morsel down his throat. GAY. 

Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening oysters, andthe time of eating them, after they are opened. Nothing, however, ismore important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater. Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmostperfection must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy inthe under shell. If not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavor andspirit are lost. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

 You shapeless nothing, in a dish! You, that are but almost a fish! COWPER. 

The largest and finest oysters should be chosen for frying. Simmer themin their own liquor for a couple of minutes; take them out, and lay themon a cloth to drain; beard them, and then flour them, egg and breadcrumbthem, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate brown. 

A much better way is to beat the yolks of eggs, and mix with the gratedbread, a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace, and a little salt. Having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry themin lard, till they are a light brown color. Take care not to do them toomuch. Serve them up hot. For grated bread, some substitute crackerspounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice. 

STEWED OYSTERS. 

 By nerves about our palate placed, She likewise judges of the taste. Who would ask for her opinion Between an _oyster_ and an onion? DONNE. 

Stew with a quart of oysters, and their liquor strained, a glass ofwhite wine, one anchovy bruised, seasoned with white pepper, salt, alittle mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let all stew gently an hour, orthree quarters. Pick out the bunch of herbs, and add a quarter pound offresh butter kneaded in a large tablespoonful of flour, and stew themten or twelve minutes. 

Serve them garnished with bread sippets and cut lemon. They may bestewed simply in their own liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper, andgrated nutmeg, and thickened with cream, flour, and butter. 

OYSTER LOAVES. 

 _'Tis no one thing_; it is not fruit, nor root, Nor poorly limited with head or foot. DONNE. 

Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, take out the crumb, frythem brown and crisp with clarified butter, then fry some breadcrumbs;stew the requisite quantity of oysters, bearded and cut in two, in theirliquor, with a little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned with gratedlemon-peel, powdered mace, pepper and salt; add a bit of butter, fillthe rolls with oysters, and serve them with the fried breadcrumbs in adish. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 

 What will not luxury taste? Earth, sea, and air, Are daily ransack'd for the bills of fare. GAY. 

Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes, take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bitof butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, add as much finebreadcrumbs as will dry it up; then put to it the oyster liquor, andgive it a boil up; put the oysters into scallop shells that you havebuttered, and strewed with breadcrumbs, then a layer of oysters, thenbreadcrumbs, and then again oysters; moisten it with the oyster liquor, cover them with breadcrumbs, put about half a dozen little bits ofbutter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven. 

Essence of anchovy, ketchup, cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, and otherspices are added by those who prefer piquance to the genuine flavor ofthe oyster. 

MEATS. 

VENISON. 

 Thanks, my lord, for your _venison_; for finer or fatter Never ranged in a forest or smoked in a platter. The haunch was a picture for painters to study, The fat was so white, and the lean was so ruddy. GOLDSMITH. 

The haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quartersroasting. Put a coarse paste of brown flour and water, and a paper overthat, to cover all the fat; baste it well with dripping, and keep it ata distance, to get hot at the bones by degrees. When near done, removethe covering, and baste it with butter, and froth it up before youserve. Gravy for it should be put in a boat, and not in the dish (unlessthere be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from twoor three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on agridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side; put them in asaucepan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour, andgently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to apint. Season only with salt. 

VENISON PASTY. 

 And now that I think on't, as I am a sinner! We wanted this venison to make out the dinner. What say you? a _pasty_! it shall and it must, And my wife, little Kitty, is famous for crust. "What the de'il, mon, a pasty!" re-echoed the Scot. "Though splitting, I'll still keep a corner for that. " "We'll all keep a corner, " the lady cried out; "We will all keep a corner!" was echoed about. GOLDSMITH. 

Cut a neck or breast into small steaks, rub them over with a seasoningof sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt; fry them slightly inbutter. Line the sides and edges of a dish with puff paste, lay in thesteaks, and add half a pint of rich gravy, made with the trimmings ofthe venison; add a glass of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon orteaspoonful of vinegar; cover the dish with puff paste, and bake itnearly two hours; some more gravy may be poured into the pie beforeserving it. 

ROAST BEEF. 

 And aye a rowth, a _roast beef_ and claret: Syne wha wad starve! BURNS. 

The noble sirloin of about fifteen pounds will require to be before thefire about three and a half to four hours; take care to spit it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one side than on the other; put a littleclean dripping into the dripping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over topreserve the fat); baste it well as soon as it is put down, and everyquarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour;then take off the paper and make some gravy for it. Stir the fire, andmake it clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minuteslonger till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, and serveit. 

BEEF À LA BRAISE. 

 In short, dear, "a Dandy" describes what I mean, And Bob's far the best of the gems I have seen, But just knows the names of French dishes and cooks, As dear Pa knows the titles and authors of books; Whose names, think how quick! he already knows pat, _A la braise_, petit patés, and--what d'ye call that They inflict on potatoes? Oh! maître d'hotel. I assure you, dear Dolly, he knows them as well As if nothing but these all his life he had eat, Though a bit of them Bobby has never touched yet. I can scarce tell the difference, at least as to phrase, Between _beef à la Psyché_ and _curls à la braise_. MOORE. 

Bone a rump of beef, lard it very thickly with salt pork seasoned withpepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice, and season the beef withpepper and salt; put some slices of bacon into the bottom of the pan, with some whole black pepper, a little allspice, one or two bay leaves, two onions, a clove of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put in thebeef, and lay over it some slices of bacon, two quarts of weak stock, and half a pint of white wine. Cover it closely, and let it stew betweensix and seven hours. Sauce for the beef is made of part of the liquor ithas been stewed in, strained, and thickened with a little flour andbutter, adding some green onions cut small, and pickled mushrooms. Pourit over the beef. 

BEEF BAKED WITH POTATOES. 

 The funeral _bak'd meats_ Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables. SHAKSPEARE. 

Boil some potatoes, peel, and pound them in a mortar with two smallonions; moisten them with milk and an egg beaten up, add a little saltand pepper. Season slices of beef or mutton-chops with salt and pepper, and more onion, if the flavor is approved. Rub the bottom of apudding-dish with butter, and put a layer of the mashed potatoes, whichshould be as thick as a batter, and then a layer of meat, and so onalternately till the dish is filled, ending with potatoes. Bake it in anoven for an hour. 

BEEF RAGOUT. 

 Is there, then, that o'er his _French ragout_, Looks down wi' sneering, scornful view, On sic a dinner? BURNS. 

Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it, pourover it a little boiling water, about a pint of small-beer, add a carrotor two, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a piece oflemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew an hour, then add somegood gravy; when the meat is tender take it out and strain the sauce;thicken it with a little flour; add a little celery ready boiled, alittle ketchup, put in the meat; just simmer it up. 

BEEF KIDNEYS. 

 Or one's _kidney_, --imagine, Dick, --done with champagne. MOORE. 

Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cutit into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine; dust it with flour. Put somebutter into a stewpan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put inthe minced kidneys. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle ona little salt and cayenne, and pour in a very little boiling water. Adda glass of champagne, or other wine, or a large teaspoonful of mushroomketchup or walnut pickle; cover the pan closely, and let it stew tillthe kidney is tender. Send it to table hot, in a covered dish. It iseaten generally at breakfast. 

BROILED BEEFSTEAKS. 

 _Time was_, when John Bull little difference spied 'Twixt the foe at his feet or the friend at his side; When he found, such his humor in fighting and eating, His foe, like _beefsteak_, the sweeter for beating. MOORE. 

 If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well, It were done quickly. SHAKSPEARE. 

Cut the steaks off a rump or the ribs of a fore quarter. Have thegridiron perfectly clean, and heated over a clear quick fire, lay on thesteaks, and with meat-tongs, keep turning them constantly, till they aredone enough; throw a little salt over them before taking them off thefire. Serve as hot as possible, plain or with a made gravy and slicedonions, or rub a bit of butter on the steaks the moment of serving. Mutton-chops are broiled in the same manner. 

SCOTCH HAGGIS. 

 Fair fa' your honest sonsie face, Great chieftain o' the puddin' race; Aboon them a' ye tak your place, Painch, tripe, or thairm, Weel are ye wordy of a grace As langs my arm. His knife see rustic labor dight, An' cut you up with ready slight, Trenching your gushing entrail bright Like onie ditch, And then, O! what a glorious sight, Warm reekin' rich. Ye powers wha mak mankind your care, And dish them out their bill of fare, Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware That jaups in luggies, But if ye wish her grateful pray'r, Gie her a _Haggis_. BURNS. 

Make the haggis bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught, boil the liververy well, so as it will grate, dry the meal before the fire, mince thedraught and a pretty large piece of beef, very small; grate about halfthe liver, mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all thesematerials very well together with a handful or two of the dried meal;spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixedspices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, andsome of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin(_i.  e. _ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat intothe bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; put out all the windbefore you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is thin, you may putit in a cloth. 

If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours boiling. 

N. B. The above is a receipt from Mrs. MacIver, a celebrated Caledonianprofessor of the culinary art, who taught and published a book ofcookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787. 

SALT BEEF. 

 The British fleet, which now commands the main, Might glorious wreaths of victory obtain, Would they take time, would they with leisure work, With care would _salt their beef_, and cure their pork. There is no dish, but what _our_ cooks have made And merited a charter by their trade. KING. 

Make a pickle of rock salt and cold water strong enough to bear an egg, let a little salt remain in the bottom of the tub; two quarts ofmolasses and a quarter pound of saltpetre is sufficient for a cwt. Ofbeef. It is fit for use in ten days. Boil the beef slowly until thebones come out easily, then wrap it in a towel, and put a heavy weighton it till cold. 

TO PICKLE TONGUES FOR BOILING. 

 Silence is commendable only In a _neat's tongue_ dried. SHAKSPEARE. 

Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle somesalt, and let it drain till next day; then for each tongue, mix a largespoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half asmuch of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every day. In a week addanother heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, a tongue will beready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle daily, it willkeep four or five weeks without being too salt. Smoke them or plainlydry them, if you like best. When to be dressed, boil it extremelytender; allow five hours, and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot. Thelonger kept after drying, the higher it will be; if hard, it may requiresoaking three or four hours. 

ROASTED CALF'S LIVER. 

 Pray a slice of your _liver_. GOLDSMITH. 

Wash and wipe it, then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbsof bread, chopped, an anchovy, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg; sew the liver up, lard it, wrap itin a veal caul, and roast it. Serve with good brown gravy and currantjelly. 

SCOTCH COLLOPS. 

 A cook has mighty things professed; Then send us but two dishes nicely dressed, -- One called _Scotch Collops_. KING. 

Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over and rather round, beatwith a rolling-pin; grate a little nutmeg over them; dip in the yolk ofan egg, and fry them in a little butter of a fine brown; have ready, warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a little bit of butterrubbed into a little flour, to which put the yolk of an egg, two largespoonfuls of cream, and a little salt. 

Do not boil the sauce, but stir until of a fine thickness to serve withthe collops. 

STEWED FILLET OF VEAL. 

 In truth, I'm confounded And bothered, my dear, 'twixt that troublesome boy's (Bob's) cookery language, and Madame Le Roi's. What with fillets of roses and _fillets of veal_, Things garni with lace, and things garni with eel, One's hair and one's cutlets both en papillote, And a thousand more things I shall ne'er have by rote. MOORE. 

Bone, lard, and stuff a fillet of veal; half roast and then stew it withtwo quarts of white stock, a teaspoonful of lemon pickle, and one ofmushroom ketchup. Before serving strain the gravy, thicken it withbutter rolled in flour, add a little cayenne, salt, and some pickledmushrooms; heat it and pour it over the veal. Have ready two or threedozen forcemeat balls to put round it and upon the top. Garnish with cutlemon. 

CALF'S HEAD SURPRISED. 

 And the dish set before them, --O dish well devised!-- Was what Old Mother Glasse calls "_a calf's head surprised_. " MOORE. 

Clean and blanch a calf's head, boil it till the bones will come outeasily, then bone and press it between two dishes, so as to give it aheadlong form; beat it with the yolks of four eggs, a little meltedbutter, pepper and salt. Divide the head when cold, and brush it allover with the beaten eggs, and strew over it grated bread, which is putover one half; a good quantity of finely minced parsley should be mixed;place the head upon a dish, and bake it of a nice brown color. Serve itwith a sauce of parsley and butter, and with one of good gravy, mixedwith the brains, which have been previously boiled, chopped, andseasoned with a little cayenne and salt. 

CALF'S HEAD ROASTED. 

 Good L--d! to see the various ways Of dressing a calf's head. SHENSTONE. 

Wash and clean it well, parboil it, take out the bones, brains, andtongue; make forcemeat sufficient for the head, and some balls withbreadcrumbs, minced suet, parsley, grated ham, and a little pounded vealor cold fowl; season with salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel; bind itwith an egg beaten up; fill the head with it, which must then be sewedup, or fastened with skewers and tied; while roasting baste it well withbutter; beat up the brains with a little cream, the yolk of an egg, someminced parsley, a little pepper and salt; blanch the tongue and cut itinto slices, and fry it with the brains, forcemeat balls, and thinslices of bacon. 

Serve the head with white or brown thickened gravy, and place the tongueand forcemeat balls round it. Garnish with cut lemon. It will requireone hour and a half to roast. 

SALMIS OF WILD DUCK. 

 Long as, by bayonets protected, we Watties May have our full fling at their _salmis_ and patés. MOORE. 

Cut off the best parts of a couple of roasted wild ducks, and put therest of the meat into a mortar, with six shallots, a little parsley, some pepper, and a bay leaf; pound all these ingredients well, and thenput into a saucepan, with four ladlesful of stock, half a glass of whitewine, the same of broth, and a little grated nutmeg; reduce these tohalf, strain them, and having laid the pieces on a dish, cover them withthe above; keep the whole hot, not boiling, until wanted for table. 

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS. 

 I give thee all my kitchen lore, Though poor the offering be; I'll tell thee how 'tis cooked, before You come to dine with me. The duck is truss'd from head to heels, Then stew'd with butter well, And streaky bacon, which reveals A most delicious smell. 

 When duck and bacon, in a mass, You in a stewpan lay, A spoon around the vessel pass, And gently stir away; A tablespoonful of flour bring, A quart of water plain, Then in it twenty onions fling, And gently stir again. 

 A bunch of parsley, and a leaf Of ever verdant bay, Two cloves, --I make my language brief, -- Then add your peas you may; And let it simmer till it sings In a delicious strain; Then take your duck, nor let the strings For trussing it remain. 

 The parsley fail not to remove, Also the leaf of bay; Dish up your duck, --the sauce improve In the accustom'd way, With pepper, salt, and other things I need not here explain; And if the dish contentment brings, You'll dine with me again. 

FOWL À LA HOLLANDAISE. 

 Our courtier walks from dish to dish, Tastes from his friends of _fowl_ and fish, Tells all their names, lays down the law, "Que ça est bon. " "Ah! goutez ça. " POPE. 

Make a forcemeat of grated bread, half its quantity of minced suet, anonion, or a few oysters and some boiled parsley, season with pepper, salt, and grated lemon-peel, and an egg beaten up to bind it. Bone thebreast of a good sized young fowl, put in the forcemeat, cover the fowlwith a piece of white paper buttered, and roast it half an hour; make athick batter of flour, milk, and eggs, take off the paper, and pour someof the batter over the fowl; as soon as it becomes dry, add more, and dothis till it is all crusted over and a nice brown color, serve it withmelted butter and lemon pickle, or a thickened brown gravy. 

BOILED TURKEY. 

 But man, cursed man, on _turkeys_ preys, And Christmas shortens all our days. Sometimes with oysters we combine, Sometimes assist the savory chine. From the low peasant to the lord, The _turkey_ smokes on every board. GAY. 

Make a stuffing of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-peel, a fewoysters, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg; put this into the crop, fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured cloth to make itvery white. Have ready some oyster sauce made rich with butter, a littlecream, and a spoonful of soy, and serve over the turkey. 

DEVILLED TURKEY. 

 And something's here with name uncivil, For our cook christens it "_A Devil_, " "_A Devil_, in any shape, sweet maid, A parson fears not, " Syntax said; "I'll make him minced meat; 'tis my trade. "

Take cold roast turkey legs, score them well, season them with salt andplenty of cayenne pepper and mustard, then broil them. Serve them_hot_. 

CAPON. 

 In good roast beef my landlord sticks his knife, The _capon_ fat delights his dainty wife. GAY. 

Take a quart of white wine, season the capon with salt, cloves, andwhole pepper, a few shallots, and then put the capon in an earthen pan;you must take care it has not room to shake; it must be covered close, and done over a slow charcoal fire. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. 

 Gargilius, sleek, voluptuous lord, A hundred dainties smoke upon his board; Earth, air, and ocean ransack'd for the feast, In masquerade of foreign olios dress'd. WARTON. 

Reduce two spoonfuls of veloute or sauce tournée, and add to the yolksof four eggs; put to this the white meat of a chicken, minced verysmall, and well mixed with the sauce; take it out, and roll it intoballs, about the size of a walnut; roll them in breadcrumbs, giving theman elongated form; then beat them in some well-beaten egg; bread themagain, and fry them of a light brown. 

LEG OF MUTTON. 

 But hang it, to poets, who seldom can eat, Your very good _mutton's_ a very good treat. GOLDSMITH. 

Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm waterfor ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let itsimmer very gently, and skim it carefully; a leg of nine pounds willtake two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done, especially in very cold weather. 

The liquor the mutton is boiled in, you may convert into good soup infive minutes, and Scotch barley broth. Thus managed, a leg of mutton isa most economical joint. 

TO CURE HAMS. 

 Or urged thereunto by the woes he endured, The way to be _smoked_, is the way to be _cured_. ANONYMOUS. 

 But to the fading palate bring relief, By the _Westphalian ham_ or Belgic beef. KING. 

When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix an ounce ofsaltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt, ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together, and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the picklefor three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento in finestpowder, added to the above, will give still more flavor. Cover with branwhen wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; thelatter will make it harder, and more of the flavor of Westphalia. Sewhams in hessings, _i.  e. _ coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there isa strong fire. 

HAM PIES. 

 Each mortal has his pleasure; none deny Scarsdale his bottle, Darby his _ham pie_. DODSLEY. 

Take two pounds of veal cutlets, cut them in middling sized pieces, season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw ordressed ham, cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put someforced or sausage meat at the top, with some stewed mushrooms, and theyolks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of water; then proceed aswith rumpsteak pie. 

N. B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops, and the chine bone taken away. 

ROASTED HARE. 

 Turkey and fowl, and ham and chine, On which the cits prefer to dine, With partridge, too, and eke a _Hare_, The luxuries of country fare, She nicely cooked with bounteous care. 

Cut the skin from a hare that has been well soaked, put it on the spit, and rub it well with Madeira, pricking it in various places that it mayimbibe plenty of wine; cover it entirely with a paste, and roast it. When done, take away the paste, rub it quickly over with egg, sprinklebreadcrumbs, and baste it gently with butter (still keeping it turningbefore the fire), until a crust is formed over it, and it is of a nicebrown color; dish it over some espagnole with Madeira wine boiled in it;two or three cloves may be stuck into the knuckles, if you think proper. 

FRICASEED RABBITS. 

 Your _rabbits fricaseed_ and chicken, With curious choice of dainty picking, Each night got ready at the Crown, With port and punch to wash 'em down. LLOYD. 

Take two fine white rabbits, and cut them in pieces; blanch them inboiling water, and skim them for one minute; stir a few trimmings ofmushrooms in a stewpan over the fire, with a bit of butter, till itbegins to fry, then stir in a spoonful of flour; mix into the flour, alittle at a time, nearly a quart of good consommé, which set on thefire, and when it boils put the rabbits in, and let them boil gentlytill done; then put them in another stewpan, and reduce the sauce tillnearly as thick as paste; mix in about half a pint of good boilingcream, and when it becomes the thickness of bechamelle sauce in general, squeeze it through the tammy to the rabbits; make it very hot, put in afew mushrooms, the yolk of an egg, a little cream, and then serve it totable. 

BIRDS. 

TO ROAST PHEASANTS. 

 Little birds fly about with the _true pheasant taint_, And the geese are all born with the liver[56-*] complaint. MOORE. 

Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the head part, mix them with saltand nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the otheringredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and coverthe birds with them, then wrap them in sheets of paper well buttered, put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear fire. 

TO ROAST ORTOLANS. 

 With all the luxury of statesmen dine, On daily feasts of _ortolans_ and wine. CAWTHORN. 

Put into every bird an oyster, or a little butter mixed with somefinely sifted breadcrumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewerthrough them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or freshbutter. They will be done in ten minutes. Reed birds are very fine madeinto little dumplings with a thin crust of flour and butter, and boiledabout twenty minutes. Each must be tied in a separate cloth. 

WOODCOCKS. 

 And as for your juries--who would not set o'er them A jury of tasters, with _woodcocks_ before them? MOORE. 

Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of "hautgout" considered a "bonne bouche. " Truss their legs close to the body, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, and put them to roast beforethe fire; toast a slice of bread for each bird, lay them in thedripping-pan under the bird to catch the trail; baste them with butter, and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds onthe toast; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and send some up ina boat. Twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Some epicures likethis bird very much underdone, and direct that the woodcock should bejust introduced to the cook, for her to show it to the fire, then sendit to table. 

BIRDS POTTED. 

 "It tastes of the _bird_, however, " said the old woman, "and she cooked the _rail of the fence_ on which the crow had been sitting. "

When birds have come a great way, they often smell so bad that they canscarcely be borne from the rankness of the butter, by managing them inthe following manner, they may be as good as ever. Set a large saucepanof clean water on the fire, when it boils take off the butter at thetop, then take the fowls out one by one, throw them in the saucepan ofwater half a minute, whip it out, and dry it in a cloth inside and out, continue till they are all done; scald the pot clean, when the birds arequite cold, season them with mace, pepper, and salt according to taste, put them down close in a pot, and pour clarified butter over them. 

LARKS. 

 What say you, lads? is any spark Among you ready for a _lark_? MOORE. 

These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When theyare thoroughly picked, gutted, and cleansed, truss them; do them overwith the yolk of an egg, and then roll them in breadcrumbs; spit themon a lark spit; ten or fifteen minutes will be sufficient time to roastthem in, before a quick fire; whilst they are roasting, baste them withfresh butter, and sprinkle them with breadcrumbs till they are wellcovered with them. Fry some grated bread in butter. Set it to drainbefore the fire, that it may harden; serve the crumbs in the dish underthe larks, and garnish with slices of lemon. 

FOOTNOTES:

[56-*] The process by which the liver of the unfortunate goose isenlarged, in order to produce that richest of all dainties, _the foiegras_, of which such renowned pâtés are made at Strasbourg and Toulouse, is thus described in the "Cours Gastronomique:" "On deplumes l'estomacdes oies; on attache ensuite ces animaux aux chenets d'une cheminée, eton le nourrit devant le feu. La captivité et la chaleur donnent a cesvolatiles une maladie hepatique, qui fait gonfler leur foie. "

MISCELLANEOUS. 

STUFFING FOR VEAL. 

 Poor Roger Fowler, who'd a generous mind, Nor would submit to have his hand confined, But aimed at all, --yet never could excel In anything but _stuffing of his veal_. 

Good stuffing has always been considered a chief thing in cookery. Mincea quarter of a pound of beef suet or marrow, the same weight ofbreadcrumbs, two drachms of parsley leaves, a drachm and a half of sweetmarjoram or lemon thyme, and the same of grated lemon-peel and onionchopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt; pound thoroughlytogether with the yolk and white of two eggs, and secure it in the vealwith a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread. 

FORCEMEAT BALLS. 

 And own they gave him a lively notion, What his own _forced meat balls_ would be. MOORE. 

Take an equal quantity of lean veal scraped, and beef suet shred, beatthem in a marble mortar, add pepper, salt, cloves, pounded lemon-peel, and nutmeg grated, parsley, and sweet herbs chopped fine, a littleshallot and young onion, a few breadcrumbs grated fine, and yolk of egg, sufficient to work it light; roll this into balls with a little flour, and fry them. 

VOL AU VENT. 

 Boy, tell the cook I love all nicknackeries, Fricasees, _vol au vents_, puffs, and gimcrackeries. MOORE. 

Roll off tart paste till about the eighth of an inch thick, then with atin cutter made for that purpose cut out the shape (about the size ofthe bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), lay it on abaking-plate with paper, rub the paste over with the yolk of an egg. Roll out good puff paste an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, andpress it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub the top withyolk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty minutes, of alight-brown color when done; take out the paste inside the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, and when wantedfill it with a white fricasee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread, or any other entree you wish. Serve hot. 

OYSTER PATTIE. 

 _De Beringhen. _ In the next room there's a delicious pâté, let's discuss it. 

 _Baradas. _ Pshaw! a man filled with a sublime ambition has no time to discuss your pâtés. 

 _De Beringhen. _ Pshaw! and a man filled with as sublime a pâté has no time to discuss ambition. Gad, I have the best of it. BULWER'S RICHELIEU. 

Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor and add them to it. Cutinto thin slices the kidney-fat of a loin of veal; season them withwhite pepper, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the bottomof a pie-dish, put in the oysters and liquor, with a little moreseasoning; put over them the marrow of two bones. Lay a border of puffpaste around the edge of the dish, cover it with paste, and bake itnearly three quarters of an hour. 

PATTIES FOR FRIED BREAD. 

 Seducing young pâtés, as ever could cozen One out of one's appetite, down by the dozen. MOORE. 

Cut the crumb of a loaf of bread into square or round pieces, nearlythree inches high, and cut bits the same width for tops. Mark themneatly with a knife; fry the bread of a light-brown color in clarifiedbeef-dripping or fine lard; scoop out the inside crumb; take care not togo too near the bottom; fill them with mince-meat prepared as forpatties, with stewed oysters or with sausage meat; put on the tops, andserve them on a napkin. 

MACARONI GRATIN. 

 Where so ready all nature its cookery yields, _Macaroni au Parmesan_ grows in the fields. MOORE. 

Lay fried bread pretty closely round a dish; boil your macaroni in theusual way, and pour it into the dish; smooth it all over, and strewbreadcrumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese;drop a little melted butter on it, and put it in the oven to brown. 

TRUFFLES. 

 What will not _Luxury taste_? _Earth_, sea and air Are daily ransacked for the bill of fare. GAY. 

The truffle, like the mushroom, is a species of fungus, common in Franceand Italy; it is generally about eight to ten inches below the surfaceof the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much used incookery. 

Being dug out of the earth, it requires a great deal of washing andbrushing. It loses much of its flavor when dried. 

TO STEW MUSHROOMS. 

 Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go, That he might taste their soups and _mushrooms_ know. KING. 

Take a pint of white stock; season it with salt, pepper, and a littlelemon pickle, thicken it with a bit of butter rolled in flour; clean andpeel the mushrooms, sprinkle them with a very little salt, boil them forthree minutes; put them into the gravy when it is hot, and stew them forfifteen minutes. 

SAUCES. 

MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 

 If you please, I'll taste your tempting toasted cheese, Broiled ham, and nice _mushroom'd ketchup_. 

If you love good ketchup, gentle reader, make it yourself, after thefollowing directions, and you will have a delicious relish for madedishes, ragouts, soup, sauces, or hashes. Mushroom gravy approaches thenature and flavor of made gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and isthe superlative substitute for it; in meagre soups and extemporegravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to agreeablyawaken the palate and encourage the appetite. 

A couple quarts of double ketchup, made according to the followingreceipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal oftime and trouble, as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce ascan be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. I believe the following isthe best way for preparing and extracting the essence of mushrooms, soas to procure and preserve their flavor for a considerable length oftime. 

Look out for mushrooms, from the beginning of September. Take care ofthe right sort and fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps are to be preferred. Put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinklethem with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and some more salt onthem, and so on, alternately, salt and mushrooms; let them remain two orthree hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms, and rendered them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or mashthem well with your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, notlonger, stirring them up, and mashing them well each day; then pour theminto a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a half of wholeblack pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close, and set in a stewpan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hoursat least. 

Take out the jar, and pour the juice, clear from the settlings, througha hair sieve (without squeezing the mushrooms), into a clean stewpan;let it boil very gently for half an hour. Those who are for superlativeketchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom juice is reduced tohalf the quantity. There are several advantages attending thisconcentration: it will keep much better, and only half the quantityrequired; so you can flavor sauce, &c. , without thinning it; neither isthis an extravagant way of making it, for merely the aqueous part isevaporated. Skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; coverit close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day; then pour itoff as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at thebottom of the jug), through a tamis or thick flannel bag, till it isperfectly clear; add a tablespoonful of good brandy to each pint ofketchup, and let it stand as before; a fresh sediment will be deposited, from which the ketchup is to be quietly poured off and bottled in pintsor half pints (which have been washed in brandy or spirits). It is bestto keep it in such quantities as are soon used. 

Take especial care that it is closely corked and sealed down. If kept ina cool dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but if it bebadly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil. 

Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neckof the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up againwith a few peppercorns. 

SUPERLATIVE SAUCE. 

 Who praises, in this _sauce enamor'd_ age, Calm, healthful temperance, like an Indian sage? WARTON. 

Claret or Port wine and mushroom ketchup, a pint of each; half a pint ofwalnut or other pickle liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; freshlemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce; peeled and sliced eschalots, thesame; scraped horseradish, ditto; allspice and black pepper, powdered, half an ounce each; cayenne, one drachm, or curry powder, three drachms;celery seed, bruised, one drachm; all avoirdupois weight. Put these intoa wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it every day for afortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the addition ofa quarter of a pint of soy or thick browning), and you will have "adelicious double relish. " Dr. Kitchener says, this composition is one ofthe chefs d'oeuvres of many experiments he has made, for the purposeof enabling good housewives to prepare their own sauces; it is equallyagreeable with fish, game, poultry, or ragouts, &c. ; and as a fair ladymay make it herself, its relish will be not a little augmented, that allthe ingredients are good and wholesome. 

_Obs. _ Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of thesubstances necessary to make sauce; the above composition of the severalarticles from which the various gravies derive their flavor, will befound a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a largetablespoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, orbroth, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing sauce, nearlyequal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual nerves into goodhumor as anything I know. 

MINT SAUCE. 

 "Live bullion, " says merciless Bob, "which I think Would, if coined with a little _mint sauce_, be delicious. " MOORE. 

Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to thisadd one-third the quantity of parsley), pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with a teaspoonfulof moist sugar and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 

 Our fathers most admired their _sauces sweet_, And often asked for sugar _with their meat_. KING. 

Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with justabout a teacup of water; stew them slowly and stir them frequently, particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal ofstewing, and should be like marmalade when done. When they are brokenand the juice comes out, stir in a pound of white sugar. When they arethoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them away to getcold. You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould, and when it is a firm shape send it to table. 

Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast fowl, turkey, &c. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

 Along these shores Neglected trade with difficulty toils, Collecting slender stores; the sun-dried grape, Or _capers_ from the rock, that prompt the taste Of luxury. DYER. 

To make a quarter of a pint, take a tablespoonful of capers and twoteaspoonfuls of vinegar. The present fashion of cutting capers is tomince one-third of them very fine, and divide the others in half; putthem into a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened gravy;stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil. Some boil and mince fine a few leaves of parsley or chevrel or tarragon, and add to the sauce; others, the juice of half a Seville orange orlemon. 

VEGETABLES. 

 Grateful and salutary Spring! the _plants_ Which crown thy numerous gardens, and invite To health and temperance, in the simple meal, Unstain'd with murder, undefil'd with blood, Unpoison'd with rich sauces, to provoke The unwilling appetite to gluttony. For this, the _bulbous esculents_ their roots With sweetness fill; for this, with cooling juice The green herb spreads its _leaves_; and opening _buds_ And _flowers_ and _seeds_ with various flavors tempts Th' ensanguined palate from its savage feast. DODSLEY. 

As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to thelargest or smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full of flavor, just before they are quite full grown. Freshness is their chief valueand excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animal alive, as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead. 

To boil them in soft water will preserve the color best of such as aregreen; if you have only hard water, put to it a teaspoonful of carbonateof potash. 

Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, andinsects. This requires great attention. 

If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, makeit boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before youput in the greens, &c. , which should not be put in till the water boilsbriskly; the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When thevegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has beenkept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will losetheir color and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly beforeyou send them to table. 

This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention. 

TO DRESS SALAD. 

 Two large potatoes, pressed through kitchen sieve, Smoothness and softness to the _salad_ give; Of mordant mustard add a single spoon; Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt. Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; True flavor needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two boiled eggs; Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce. O great and glorious! O herbaceous treat! 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat, Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl. REV. SIDNEY SMITH. 

If the herbs be young, fresh-gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dryand the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the above directions, hecannot fail of obtaining the fame of being a very accomplishedsalad-dresser. 

ONIONS. 

 The things we eat, by various juice control The narrowness or largeness of our soul. _Onions_ will make e'en heirs or widows weep; The tender lettuce brings on softer sleep. KING. 

Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to putthem on to boil; put them into a stewpan, with a quart of cold water;let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size andage) from half an hour to an hour. 

ARTICHOKES. 

 Whose appetites would soon devour Each cabbage, _artichoke_, and flower. CAWTHORNE. 

Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty ofboiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently tilltender, which will take an hour and a half or two hours. The surest wayto know when they are done enough is to draw out a leaf. Trim them anddrain them on a sieve, and send up melted butter with them, which someput into small cups, so that each guest may have one. 

LIMA BEANS. 

 Now fragrant with the _bean's_ perfume, Now purpled with the pulse's bloom, Might well with bright allusions store me; But happier bards have been before me. SHENSTONE. 

These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should begathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and thenboil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft; drain them well, and add to them some butter. They are destroyed by the first frost, butcan be kept during the winter by gathering them on a dry day, when fullgrown, but not the least hard, and putting them in their pods into akeg. Throw some salt into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with alayer of bean pods, then add more salt, and then another layer of beansin their pods, till the keg is full. Press them down with a heavyweight, cover the keg closely, and keep it in a cool, dry place. Beforeyou use them, soak the pods all night in cold water, the next day shellthem, and soak the beans till you are ready to boil them. 

POTATOES. 

 Leeks to the Welsh, to Dutchmen butter's dear; Of Irish swains, _potatoes_ is the cheer. GAY. 

Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Filla saucepan half full of potatoes of equal size (or make them so bydividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as will coverthem about an inch; they are sooner boiled, and more savory than whendrowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too littlewater; but potatoes are often spoiled by having too much; they must bemerely covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that theymay be just covered at the finish. Set them on a moderate fire till theyboil; then take them off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmerslowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork. Place no dependence onthe usual test of their skins cracking, which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done, and theinsides quite hard. Then pour the water off--(if you let the potatoesremain in the water a moment after they are done enough, they willbecome waxy and watery), --uncover the saucepan, and set it at such adistance from the fire as will secure it from burning; their superfluousmoisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be perfectly dry andmealy. 

You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the size of thesaucepan's diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy tillwanted. 

This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to steamingthem, and they are dressed in half the time. 

There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, it isimpossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way is to trythem with a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will generally be done enoughin fifteen or twenty minutes. 

PEAS. 

 Your infant _peas_ to asparagus prefer; Which to the supper you may best defer. KING. 

Young green peas, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicaciesof the vegetable kingdom. They must be young. It is equallyindispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as theyare shelled, for they soon lose both their color and sweetness. Afterbeing shelled, wash them, drain them in a cullender, put them on, inplenty of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt; boil them till theybecome tender, which, if young, will be less than half an hour; if old, they will require more than an hour. Drain them in a cullender, and putthem into a dish, with a slice of fresh butter in it. Some people thinkit an improvement to boil a small bunch of mint with the peas; it isthen minced finely, and laid in small heaps at the end or sides of thedish. If peas are allowed to stand in the water, after being boiled, they lose their color. 

RICE. 

 Every week dispense English beans or _Carolinian rice_. GRAINGER. 

Wash the rice perfectly clean; put on one pound in two quarts of coldwater; let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a sieve, and put itbefore the fire; shake it up with a fork every now and then, to separatethe grains, and make it quite dry. Serve it hot. 

TURNIPS. 

 On _turnips_ feast whene'er you please, And riot in my beans and peas. GAY. 

Wash, peel, and boil them till tender, in water with a little salt;serve them with melted butter. Or they may be stewed in a pint of milk, thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with saltand pepper, and served with the sauce. 

SPINACH. 

 Much meat doth Gluttony procure, To feed men fat as swine; But he's a frugal man, indeed, That on _the leaf_ can dine. 

Pick it very carefully, and wash it thoroughly two or three times; thenput it on in boiling water with a little salt; let it boil nearly twentyminutes. Put it into a cullender; hold it under the watercock, and letthe water run on it for a minute. Put it into a saucepan; beat itperfectly smooth with a wooden spoon; add a bit of butter, and threetablespoonfuls of cream. Mix it well together, and make it hot beforeserving. 

ASPARAGUS. 

 At early morn, I to the market haste, (Studious in everything to please thy taste); A curious fowl and _'sparagus_ I chose, (For I remembered you were fond of those). GAY. 

Boil asparagus in salt and water till it is tender at the stalk, whichwill be in twenty or thirty minutes. Great care must be taken to watchthe exact time of its becoming tender. Toast some bread; dip it lightlyin the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle ofthe dish; melt some butter; lay the asparagus upon the toast, which mustproject beyond the asparagus, that the company may see that there istoast. 

CARROTS. 

 And when his juicy salads fail'd, Slic'd _carrots_ pleased him well. COWPER. 

Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. If young springcarrots, an hour is enough. When done, rub off the peels with a cleancoarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size. The best way to try if they are boiled enough, is to pierce them with afork. 

LEEKS. 

 With carrots red, and turnips white, And _leeks_, Cadwallader's delight, And all the savory crop that vie To please the palate and the eye. GRAINGER. 

Leeks are most generally used for soups, ragouts, and other made dishes. They are very rarely brought to table; in which case dress them asfollows. Put them in the stock pot till about three parts done; thentake them out, drain and soak them in vinegar seasoned with pepper, salt, and cloves; drain them again, stuff their hearts with a farce, dipthem in butter, and fry them. 

TO DRY HERBS. 

 _Herbs_ too she knew, and well of each could speak That in her garden sipp'd the silvery dew, Where no vain flower disclosed a gaudy streak, But herbs, for use and physic, not a few Of gray renown, within those borders grew, -- The _tufted basil_, _pun-provoking thyme_, Fresh _balm_, and _marigold_ of cheerful hue, The _lowly gill_, that never dares to climb, And more I fain would sing, disdaining here to rhyme. SHENSTONE. 

It is very important to know when the various seasons commence forpicking sweet and savory herbs for drying. Care should be taken thatthey are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a bettercolor when dried. Cleanse them well from dirt and dust, cut off theroots, separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heatof the stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in suchquantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished, _i.  e. _"Kill 'em quick, " says a great botanist; by this means their flavor willbe best preserved. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drying, &c. , hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat ofthe sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only cautionrequisite is to avoid burning; and of this a sufficient test is affordedby the preservation of the color. The best method to preserve the flavorof aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried, and to pound them, and put them through a hair sieve, and keep them inwell-stopped bottles labelled. 

PICKLES. 

MANGOES. 

 What lord of old would bid his cook prepare _Mangoes_, potargo, champignons, caviare! KING. 

There is a particular sort of melon for this purpose. Cut a square smallpiece out of one side, and through that take out the seeds, mix withthem mustard seeds and shred garlic, stuff the melon as full as thespace will allow, and replace the square piece. Bind it up with smallnew pack-thread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for wasting, with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour it boiling over the mangoes, foursuccessive days; the last day put flour of mustard and scrapedhorseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Observe that there isplenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled, if not well covered. 

PICKLED CABBAGE. 

 Lives in a cell, and eats from week to week A meal of _pickled cabbage_ and ox cheek. CAWTHORNE. 

Choose two middling-sized, well-colored and firm red cabbages, shredthem very finely, first pulling off the outside leaves; mix with themnearly half a pound of salt; tie it up in a thin cloth, and let it hangfor twelve hours; then put it into small jars, and pour over it coldvinegar that has been boiled with a few barberries in it. Boil in aquart of vinegar, three bits of ginger, half an ounce of pepper, and aquarter of an ounce of cloves. When cold, pour it over the red cabbage. Tie the jar closely with bladder. 

SWEETMEATS. 

TO CLARIFY SUGAR. 

 'Mongst salts essential, _sugar_ wins the palm, For taste, for color, and for various use. O'er all thy works let cleanliness preside, Child of frugality; and as the scum Thick mantles o'er the boiling wave, do thou The scum that mantles carefully remove. GRAINGER. 

 Whereof little More than a little is by much too much. SHAKSPEARE. 

To every three pounds of loaf sugar, allow the beaten white of an eggand a pint and a half of water; break the sugar small, put it into anicely cleaned brass pan, pour the water over it; let it stand some timebefore it be put upon the fire, then add the beaten white of the egg;stir it till the sugar be entirely dissolved; when it boils up, pour ina quarter of a pint of cold water, let it boil up a second time, take itoff the fire, let it settle for fifteen minutes, carefully take off allthe scum, let it boil again till sufficiently thick; in order toascertain which, drop a little from a spoon into a jar of cold water, and if it become quite hard, it is sufficiently done, and the fruit tobe preserved must instantly be put in and boiled. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

 He snuffs far off the anticipated joy, _Jelly_ and ven'son all his thoughts employ. COWPER. 

Currant, grape, and raspberry jelly are all made precisely in the samemanner. When the fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day. As soon asit is nicely picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close. Set the jar in a saucepan, about three parts filled with cold water; putit on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take thepan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag, pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. To eachpint of juice, add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar pounded, when it is put into a preserving pan; set it on the fire, and boil itgently, stirring and skimming it the whole time (about thirty or fortyminutes), _i.  e. _ till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear andfine; pour it warm into pots, and when cold, cover them with paperwetted in brandy. 

Half a pint of this jelly dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar willgive you an excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar. 

_Obs. _ Jellies from the fruits are made in the same way, and cannot bepreserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. The best way isthe cheapest. 

APPLE JELLY. 

 The board was spread with fruits and wine; With grapes of gold, like those that shine On Caslin's hills; pomegranates, full Of melting sweetness, and the pears And sunniest _apples_ that Cabul In all its thousand gardens bears. MOORE. 

Pare and mince three dozen juicy, acid apples; put them into a pan;cover them with water, and boil them till very soft; strain them througha thin cloth or flannel bag; allow a pound of loaf sugar to a pint ofjuice, with the grated peel and juice of six lemons. Boil it for twentyminutes; take off the scum as it rises. 

CHERRY JELLY. 

 With rich conserve of _Visna cherries_, Of orange flower, and of those berries That----. MOORE. 

Take the stones and stalks from two pounds of clear, fine, ripecherries; mix them with a quarter of a pound of red currants, from whichthe seeds have been extracted; express the juice from these fruits;filter, and mix it with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar, and one ounce of isinglass. Replace the vessel on the fire with thejuice, and add to it a pound and a half of sugar, boiled _à conserve_. Boil together a few times, and then pour the conserve into cases. 

CALVES' FEET JELLY. 

 Nature hates vacuums, as you know, We, therefore, will descend below, And fill, with dainties nice and light, The vacuum in your appetite. Besides, good wine and dainty fare Are sometimes known to lighten care; Nay, man is often brisk or dull, As the keen stomach's void or full. 

To four feet add four quarts of water; let them boil on a slow fire tillthe flesh is parted from the bones, and the quantity reduced to half;strain it carefully, and the next morning remove the feet and sediment. Add the rind of two lemons, the juice of five lemons, one and a halfpounds of white sugar, a stick of cinnamon, a little nutmeg, a pint ofsherry wine, half a teacupful of brandy; beat the white of ten eggs to afroth, and put them into the pan with their shells; let it boil tenminutes, when throw in a teacupful of cold water. Strain it through aflannel bag, first dipped into boiling water. 

PINEAPPLE PRESERVE. 

 And the _sun's child_, the _mail'd anana_, yields His _regal apple_ to the ravish'd taste. GRAINGER. 

Pare your pineapple; cut it in small pieces, and leave out the core. Mixthe pineapple with half a pound of powdered white sugar, and set it awayin a covered dish till sufficient juice is drawn out to stew the fruitin. 

Stew the pineapple in the sugar and juice till quite soft, then mash itto a marmalade with the back of a spoon, and set it away to cool; pourit in tumblers, cover them with paper, gum-arabicked on. 

EGGS. 

OMELET. 

 Though many, I own, are the evils they've brought us, Though R**al*y's here on her very last legs; Yet who can help loving the land that has taught us Six hundred and eighty-five ways to dress _eggs_! MOORE. 

Take as many eggs as you think proper; break them into a pan, with somesalt and chopped parsley; beat them well, and season them according totaste. Have ready some onion, chopped small; put some butter into afryingpan, and when it is hot, put in your chopped onion, giving themtwo or three turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the whole of anice brown. You must only fry one side; serve the fried side uppermost. 

TO POACH EGGS. 

 But, after all, what would you have me do, When, out of twenty, I can please not two? One likes the pheasant's wing, and one the leg; The vulgar boil, the learned _poach an egg_; Hard task to hit the palate of such guests, When Oldfield loves what Dartineuf detests. POPE. 

The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavor toprocure eggs that have been laid a couple of days; those that are newlaid are so milky, that, take all the care you can, your cooking of themwill seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher. You musthave fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. The beauty of a poachedegg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the white, which shouldonly be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil for theegg. Have some boiling water in a teakettle; pass as much of it througha clean cloth as will half fill a stewpan; break the egg into a cup, andwhen the water boils remove the stewpan from the stove, and gently slipthe egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then put it on avery moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is ready. Take it up with a slicer, and neatly place it on a piece of toast. 

BOILED EGGS. 

 On holydays, an _egg or two_ at most; But her ambition never reached to roast. CHAUCER. 

The fresher laid the better. Put them into boiling water; if you likethe white just set, about two minutes' boiling is enough. A new-laid eggwill take a little more. If you wish the yolk to be set, it will takethree, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. A new-laid eggwill require longer boiling than a stale one by half a minute. 

FRIED EGGS. 

 Go work, hunt, exercise (he thus begun), Then scorn a homely dinner if you can; _Fried eggs_, and herbs, and olives, still we see: This much is left of old simplicity. POPE. 

Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may be served as a secondcourse dish, to eat with roast chicken. 

EGGS AND BREAD. 

 Never go to France, Unless you know the lingo; If you do, like me, You'll repent, by jingo. Starving like a fool, And silent as a mummy, There I stood alone, A nation with a dummy. 

 Signs I had to make For every little notion; Limbs all going like A telegraph in motion; If I wanted _bread_, My jaws I set a-going, And asked for _new laid eggs_ By clapping hands and crowing. 

Put half a handful of breadcrumbs into a saucepan, with a smallquantity of cream, sugar, and nutmeg, and let it stand till the breadhas imbibed all the cream; then break ten eggs into it, and havingbeaten them up together, fry it like an omelet. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ. 

 "Where is my favorite dish?" he cried; "Let some one place it by my side!" DONNE. 

Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four (set aside theremaining whites), with a spoonful of water, some salt, sugar, and thejuice of a lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish. Whip the fourwhites which were set aside to a froth with sugar, and place it over thefried eggs; bake it for a few minutes. 

DESSERTS. 

PUFF PASTE. 

 The _puffs_ made me light, And now that's all over, I'm pretty well, thank you. MOORE. 

Weigh an equal quantity of flour and butter, rub rather more than halfthe flour into one-third of the butter; add as much cold water as willmake it into a stiff paste; work it until the butter be completely mixedwith the flour, make it round, beat it with the rolling-pin, dust it, asalso the rolling-pin with flour, and roll it out towards the oppositeside of the slab, or paste-board, making it of an equal thickness, thenwith the point of a knife, put little bits of butter all over it, dustflour over it and under it, fold in all the sides, and roll it up, dustit again with flour, beat it a little, and roll out, always rubbing therolling-pin with flour, and throwing some underneath the paste toprevent its sticking to the board. 

It should be touched as little as possible with the hands. 

PYRAMID PASTE. 

 You that from pliant _paste_ would fabrics raise, Expecting thence to gain immortal praise, Your knuckles try, and let your sinews know Their power to knead, and give the form to dough; From thence of course the figure will arise, And elegance adorn the surface of your pies. KING. 

Make a rich puff paste, roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut itinto five or seven pieces with scalloped tin cutters, which go onewithin another; leave the bottom and top piece entire, and cut a bit outof the centre of the others. Place them upon buttered baking tins, andbake them of a light brown. Build them into a pyramid, laying adifferent preserved fruit upon each piece of paste, and on the top awhole apricot with a sprig of myrtle stuck in it. 

FRUIT PIES. 

 Unless some _sweetness_ at the bottom lie, Who cares for all the crinkling of the pie! KING. 

Fruit pies for family use are generally made with common paste. Allowthree quarters of a pound of butter to a pound and a half of flour. Peaches and plums for pies should be cut in half, and the stones takenout. Cherries also should be stoned, and red cherries only should beused for pies. Apples should be cut into very thin slices, and are muchimproved by a little lemon-peel. Apples stewed previous to baking, should not be done till they break, but only till they are tender. Theyshould then be drained in a cullender, and chopped fine with a knife oredge of a spoon. In making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good way to seta small teacup on the bottom crust, and lay the fruit round it. Thejuice will collect under the cup, and not run out at the edges or top ofthe pie. The fruit should be mixed with a sufficient quantity of sugar, and piled up in the middle, so as to make the pie highest in the centre. 

The upper crust should be pricked with a fork. The edges should benicely crimped with a knife. If stewed fruit is put in warm, it willmake the paste heavy. If your pies are made in the form of shells, thefruit should always be stewed first, or it will not be sufficientlydone, as the shells (which should be made of puff paste) must not bakeso long as covered pies. 

Fruit pies with lids should have loaf sugar grated over them. 

MINCE PIES. 

 When Terence spoke, oraculous and sly, He'd neither grant the question nor deny, Pleading for tarts, his thoughts were on _mince pie_. 

 My poor endeavors view with gracious eye, To make these lines above a _Christmas pie_. 

Two pounds of boiled beef's heart or fresh tongue, or lean fresh beefchopped, when cold; two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, four pounds ofpippin apples chopped, two pounds of raisins stoned and chopped, twopounds of currants picked, washed, and dried, two pounds of powderedsugar, one quart of white wine, one quart of brandy, one wine-glass ofrose-water, two grated nutmegs, half an ounce of cinnamon, powdered, aquarter of an ounce of mace, powdered, a teaspoonful of salt, two largeoranges, and half a pound of citron cut in slips. Pack it closely intostone jars, and tie them over with paper. When it is to be used, add alittle more wine. 

PLUM PUDDING. 

 All you who to feasting and mirth are inclined, Come, here is good news for to pleasure your mind. Old Christmas is come, for to keep open house: He scorns to be guilty of starving a mouse. Then come, boys, and welcome, for diet the chief, -- _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef. The cooks shall be busied, by day and by night, In roasting and _boiling_, for taste and delight. Provision is making for beer, ale, and wine, For all that are willing or ready to dine. Meantime goes the caterer to fetch in _the chief_, -- _Plum pudding_, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef. ANCIENT CHRISTMAS CAROL. 

One quarter of a pound of beef suet; take out the strings and skin; chopit to appear like butter; stone one pound of raisins, one pound ofcurrants, well washed, dried, and floured, one pound loaf sugar, rolledand sifted, one pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten; beat all welltogether for some time, then add by degrees two glasses of brandy, onewine, one rose-water, citron, nutmeg, and cinnamon; beat it allextremely well together, tie it in a floured cloth very tight, let itboil four hours constantly; let your sauce be a quarter pound of butter, beat to a cream, a quarter pound loaf sugar pounded and sifted; beat inthe butter with a little wine and sugar and nutmeg. 

COCOANUT PUDDING. 

 Whatever was the _best pie_ going, In _that_ Ned--trust him--had his finger. MOORE. 

Take the thin brown skin off of a quarter pound of cocoa, wash it incold water, and wipe it dry; grate it fine, stir three and half ouncesof butter and a quarter pound of powdered sugar, to a cream; add halfteaspoonful of rose-water, half glass of wine and of brandy mixed, tothem. Beat the white of six eggs till they stand alone, and then stirthem into the butter and sugar; afterwards sprinkle in the grated nut, and stir hard all the time. Put puff paste into the bottom of the dish, pour in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, half an hour. Grateloaf sugar over it when cold. 

APPLE PUDDING. 

 Where London's column, pointing to the skies, Like a tall bully, lifts the head and lies, There dwelt a citizen of sober fame, A plain, good man, and Balaam was his name; Religious, punctual, frugal, and so forth, His word would pass for more than he was worth; One solid dish his week-day meal affords, And _apple pudding_ solemnized the Lord's. POPE. 

Make a batter of two eggs, a pint of milk and three or four spoonfulsof flour; pour it into a deep dish, and having pared six or eightapples, place them whole in the batter, and bake them. 

HASTY PUDDING. 

 But man, more fickle, the bold license claims, In different realms, to give thee different names. _Thee_, the soft nations round the warm Levant Polanta call; the French, of course, Polante. E'en in thy native regions, how I blush To hear the Pennsylvanians call thee _mush_! All spurious appellations, void of truth; I've better known thee from my earliest youth: Thy name is _Hasty Pudding_! Thus our sires Were wont to greet thee from the fuming fires; And while they argued in thy just defence, With logic clear, they thus explained the sense: "In _haste_ the boiling caldron, o'er the blaze, Receives and cooks the ready-powdered maize; In haste 'tis served, and then in equal _haste_, With cooling milk, we make the sweet repast. No carving to be done, no knife to grate The tender ear, and wound the stony plate; But the smooth spoon, just fitted to the lip, And taught with art the yielding mass to dip, By frequent journeys to the bowl well stored, Performs the _hasty_ honors of the board. " Such is thy name, significant and clear, -- A name, a sound, to every Yankee dear; But most to me, whose heart and palate chaste Preserve my pure, hereditary taste. BARLOW. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

 The strong table groans Beneath the smoking sirloin, stretch'd immense From side to side; in which with desperate knife They deep incisions make, and talk the while Of England's glory, ne'er to be defaced While hence they borrow vigor; or amain Into the _pudding_ plunged at intervals, If stomach keen can intervals allow, Relating all the glories of the chase. THOMSON. 

This pudding is especially an excellent accompaniment to a sirloin ofbeef. Six tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pint of milk, make a middling stiff batter; beat it up well; takecare it is not lumpy. Put a dish under the meat; let the drippings dropinto it, till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter. When the upper surface is browned and set, turn it, that both sides maybe brown alike. A pudding an inch thick will take two hours. Serve itunder the roast beef, that the juice of the beef may enter it. It isvery fine. 

SUET PUDDING. 

 Sir Balaam now, he lives like other folks; He takes his chirping, and cracks his jokes. Live like yourself, was soon my lady's word; And lo! _suet pudding_ was seen upon the board. POPE. 

Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three tablespoonfuls; eggs two, and alittle grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine aspossible; roll it with the rolling-pin, so as to mix it well with theflour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix them alltogether; wet your cloth well in boiling water, and boil it an hour anda quarter. Mrs. Glasse has it: "When you have made your water boil, thenput your pudding into your pot. "

OATMEAL PUDDING. 

 Of oats decorticated take two pounds, And of new milk enough the same to drown; Of raisins of the sun, stoned, ounces eight; Of currants, cleanly picked, an equal weight; Of suet, finely sliced, an ounce at least; And six eggs, newly taken from the nest: Season this mixture well with salt and spice; 'Twill make a pudding far exceeding rice; And you may safely feed on it like farmers, For the recipe is learned Dr. Harmer's. 

EVE'S PUDDING. 

 If you want a good pudding, mind what you are taught: Take eggs, six in number, when bought for a groat; The fruit with which Eve her husband did cozen, Well pared and well chopped, take at least half a dozen; Six ounces of bread--let the cook eat the crust-- And crumble the soft as fine as the dust; Six ounces of currants from the stalks you must sort, Lest they husk out your teeth, and spoil all the sport; Six ounces of sugar won't make it too sweet, And some salt and some nutmeg will make it complete. Three hours let it boil, without any flutter, And Adam won't like it without sugar and butter. ANONYMOUS. 

CHARLOTTE DES POMMES. 

 _Charlotte_, from rennet apples first did frame _A pie_, which still retains her name. Though common grown, yet with white sugar stewed, And butter'd right, its goodness is allowed. KING. 

Pare, core, and mince fifteen French rennet apples; put them into afrying-pan with some powdered loaf sugar, a little pounded cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, and two ounces and a half of fresh butter; fry them aquarter of an hour over a quick fire, stirring them constantly. Butterthe shape the size the Charlotte is intended to be; cut strips of breadlong enough to reach from the bottom to the rim of the shape, so thatthe whole be lined with bread; dip each bit into melted butter, and puta layer of fried apples, and one of apricot jam or marmalade, and thenone of bread dipped into butter; begin and finish with it. Bake it in anoven for an hour. Turn it out to serve. 

BATTER PUDDING. 

 A frugal man, upon the whole, Yet loved his friend, and had a soul; Knew what was handsome, and would do't On just occasion, coûte qui coûte. He brought him bacon (nothing lean); _Pudding_, that might have pleased a dean; Cheese, such as men of Suffolk make, But wished it Stilton for his sake. POPE. 

Take six ounces of flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat it wellwith a little milk, added by degrees, till the batter becomes smooth;make it the thickness of cream; put it into a buttered and floured bag;tie it tightly; boil one and a half hour, or two hours. Serve with winesauce. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

 By the rivulet, on the rushes, Beneath a canopy of bushes, Colin Blount and Yorkshire Tray Taste the _dumplings_ and the whey. SMART. 

Pare and scoop out the core of six large baking apples; put part of aclove and a little grated lemon-peel inside of each, and enclose them inpieces of puff paste; boil them in nets for the purpose, or bits oflinen, for an hour. Before serving, cut off a small bit from the top ofeach, and put a teaspoonful of sugar and a bit of fresh butter; replacethe bit of paste, and strew over them pounded loaf sugar. 

SWEETMEAT FRITTERS. 

 If chronicles may be believed, So loved the pamper'd gallant lived, That with the nuns he always dined On rarities of every kind; Then hoards, occasionally varied, Of biscuits, _sweetmeats_, nuts, and fruits. 

Cut small any sort of candied fruit, and heat it with a bit of freshbutter, some good milk, and a little grated lemon-peel; when quite hot, stir in enough of flour to make it into a stiff paste; take it off thefire, and work in eight or ten eggs, two at a time. When cold, form thefritters, fry, and serve them with pounded loaf sugar strewed over them. 

FRITTERS. 

 Methinks I scent some _rich repast_: The savor strengthens with the blast. GAY. 

Take a dozen apricots, or any other fruit preserved in brandy; drainthem in half; then wrap them in wafers, cut round, and previouslymoistened. Make the batter by putting a glass and a half of water, agrain of salt, and two ounces of fresh butter, into a saucepan. When itboils, stir in sufficient quantity of flour to make it rather a firmbatter; keep it stirring three minutes; then pour it into anothervessel: dip the fruit in this batter, and fry them; sprinkle them withsugar, then serve. 

CREAMS. 

ICE CREAM. 

 After dreaming some hours of the land of Cocaigne, That Elysium of all that is friand and nice, Where for hail they have bonbons, and claret for rain, And the skaters in winter show off on _cream ice_. MOORE. 

 Here _ice, like crystal firm_, and never lost, Tempers hot July with December's frost. WALLER. 

Put a quart of rich cream into a broad pan; then stir in half a pound ofpowdered loaf sugar by degrees, and when all is well mixed, strain itthrough a sieve. Put it into a tin that has a close cover, and set it ina tub. Fill the tub with ice broken into small pieces, and strew amongthe ice a large quantity of salt, taking care that none of the salt getsinto the cream. Scrape the cream down with a spoon as it freezes roundthe edges of the tin. While the cream is freezing, stir in gradually thejuice of two large lemons or the juice of a pint of mashed strawberriesor raspberries. When it is all frozen, dip the tin in lukewarm water;take out the cream, and fill your glasses, but not till a few minutesbefore you want to use it, as it will melt very soon. 

If you wish to have it in moulds, put the cream into them as soon as itis frozen in the tin. 

Set the moulds in a tub of ice and salt. Just before you want to use thecream, take the moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash the salt carefullyfrom the outside, dip the moulds into lukewarm water, and turn out thecream. You may flavor a quart of ice cream with two ounces of sweetalmonds, and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched, and beaten in amortar with a little rose-water to a smooth paste. 

Stir in the almond gradually, while the cream is freezing. 

WHIPPED CREAM. 

 Pudding our parson eats, the squire loves hare, But _whipped cream_ is my Buxoma's fare, While she loves _whipped cream_, capon ne'er shall be, Nor hare, nor beef, nor pudding, food for me. GAY. 

Sweeten with pounded loaf sugar a quart of cream, and to it a lump ofsugar which has been rubbed upon the peel of two fine lemons or littleoranges; or flavor it with orange flower water, a little essence ofroses, the juice of strawberries, or any other fruit. Whisk the creamwell in a large pan, and as the froth rises, take it off, and lay it ona sieve placed over another pan, and return the cream which drains fromthe froth till all is whisked; then heap it upon a dish, or put it intoglasses. 

BOILED CUSTARDS. 

 And _boiled custard_, take its merit in brief, Makes a noble dessert, where the dinner's roast beef. 

Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream, and the yolks of five eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of theseasoning, sweeten enough for the whole; pour it into the cream, stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a properthickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way; then seasonwith a large spoonful of peach-water, and two teaspoonfuls of brandy ora little ratafia. If you wish your custards extremely rich, put no milk, but a quart of cream. 

ORANGE CUSTARDS. 

 With _orange custards_ and the juicy pine, On choicest melons and sweet grapes they dine. JONSON. 

Sweeten the strained juice of ten oranges with pounded loaf sugar, stirit over the fire till hot, take off the scum, and when nearly cold, addto it the beaten yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of cream; put it intoa saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it thickens. Serve it incups. 

CUSTARDS OR CREAMS. 

 But nicer cates, her dainty's boasted fare, The _jellied cream_ or custards, daintiest food, Or cheesecake, or the cooling syllabub, For Thyrses she prepares. DODSLEY. 

Whisk for one hour the whites of two eggs, together with twotablespoonfuls of raspberry or red currant syrup or jelly; lay it in anyform of a custard or cream, piled up to imitate rock. It may be servedin a cream round it. 

ALMOND CREAMS. 

 And from _sweet kernels_ pressed, She tempers _dulcet creams_. MILTON. 

Blanch and pound to a paste, with rose-water, six ounces of almonds; mixthem with a pint and a half of cream which has been boiled with the peelof a small lemon; add two well-beaten eggs, and stir the whole over thefire till it be thick, taking care not to allow it to boil; sweeten it, and when nearly cold, stir in a tablespoonful of orange-flower orrose-water. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

YEAST. 

 Not with the leaven, as of old, Of sin and malice fed, But with unfeigned sincerity. 

One dozen of potatoes, two cupfuls of hops; put them together in a bag, and place them in a pot with two quarts of water; let it boil till thepotatoes are done; a cupful of salt, a ladle of flour; then pour theboiling water over it, then let it stand till lukewarm; add a cupful ofold yeast, cover it up, and put near the fire till it foments. 

BREAD. 

 His diet was of _wheaten bread_. COWPER. 

 Mixt with the rustic throng, see ruddy maids, Some taught with dextrous hand to twirl the wheel, Some expert To raise from _leavened wheat the kneaded loaf_. DODSLEY. 

 Her _bread_ is deemed such dainty fare, That ev'ry prudent traveller His wallet loads with many a crust. COWPER. 

 Like the _loaf_ in the Tub's pleasant tale, That was fish, flesh, and custard, good claret and ale, It comprised every flavor, was all and was each, Was grape and was pineapple, nectarine and peach. LOVILOND. 

Mix with six pounds of sifted flour one ounce of salt, nearly half apint of fresh sweet yeast as it comes from the brewery, and a sufficientquantity of warmed milk to make the whole into a stiff dough, work andknead it well on a board, on which a little flour has been strewed, forfifteen or twenty minutes, then put it into a deep pan, cover it with awarmed towel, set it before the fire, and let it rise for an hour and ahalf or perhaps two hours; cut off a piece of this sponge or dough;knead it well for eight or ten minutes, together with flour sufficientto keep it from adhering to the board, put it into small tins, fillingthem three quarters full; dent the rolls all around with a knife, andlet them stand a few minutes before putting them in the oven. 

The remainder of the dough must then be worked up for loaves, and bakedeither in or out of shape. 

RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 

 Of wine she never tasted through the year, But white and black was all her homely cheer, _Brown bread_ and milk (but first she skimmed her bowls), And rasher of singed bacon on the coals. CHAUCER. 

Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them welltogether. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling upon the meal; addtwo teaspoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let it standtill it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half a pint ofgood, fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a smallerquantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and set itto rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been previouslywarmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light, and hascracked all over the top, make it into two loaves; put them into amoderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half. 

BUTTER. 

 Vessels large And broad, by the sweet hand of neatness clean'd, Meanwhile, in decent order ranged appear, The milky treasure, strain'd thro' filtering lawn, Intended to receive. At early day, Sweet slumber shaken from her opening lids, My lovely Patty to her dairy hies; There, from the surface of expanded bowls She skims the floating cream, and to her churn Commits the rich consistence; nor disdains, Though soft her hand, though delicate her frame, To urge the rural toil, fond to obtain The country housewife's humble name and praise. Continued agitation separates soon The unctuous particles; with gentler strokes And artful, soon they coalesce; at length Cool water pouring from the limpid spring Into a smooth glazed vessel, deep and wide, She gathers the loose fragments to a heap, Which in the cleansing wave, well wrought and press'd, To one consistent golden mass, receives The sprinkled seasoning, and of pats or pounds The fair impression, the neat shape assumes. DODSLEY. 

COTTAGE CHEESE. 

 Warm from the cow she pours The milky flood. An acid juice infused, From the dried stomach drawn of suckling calf, Coagulates the whole. Immediate now Her spreading hands bear down the gathering curd, Which hard and harder grows, till, clear and thin, The green whey rises separate. DODSLEY. 

Warm three half pints of cream with one half pint of milk, and put alittle rennet to it; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled;have a proper mould with holes, either of china or any other; put thecurds into it to drain, about one hour or less. Serve it with a goodplain cream, and pounded sugar over it. 

CAKES. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

 Do, dear James, mix up the cakes: Just one quart of meal it takes; Pour the water on the pot, Be careful it is not too hot; Sift the meal well through your hand, Thicken well--don't let it stand; Stir it quick, --clash, clatter, clatter! O what light, delicious batter! Now listen to the next command: On the dresser let it stand Just three quarters of an hour, To feel the gently rising power Of powders, melted into yeast, To lighten well this precious feast. See, now it rises to the brim! Quick, take the ladle, dip it in; So let it rest, until the fire The griddle heats as you desire. Be careful that the coals are glowing, No smoke around its white curls throwing; Apply the suet, softly, lightly; The griddle's black face shines more brightly. Now pour the batter on; delicious! Don't, dear James, think me officious, But lift the tender edges lightly; Now turn it over quickly, sprightly. 'Tis done! Now on the white plate lay it: Smoking hot, with butter spread, 'Tis quite enough to turn our head!

JOHNNY CAKES. 

 Some talk of hoecake, fair Virginia's pride! Rich _Johnny cake_ this mouth has often tried; Both please me well, their virtues much the same; Alike their fabric, as allied their fame. BARLOW. 

A quart of sifted Indian meal, and a handful of wheat flour sifted; mixthem; three eggs, well beaten; two tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer'syeast, or flour of home made yeast, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quartof milk. 

MUFFINS. 

 Friend, I am a shrewd observer, and will guess What cakes you doat on for your favorite mess. ARMSTRONG. 

Take a pint of warm milk, and a quarter pint of thick small-beer yeast;strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to make it like abatter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place until it hasrisen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and an ounce of butterrubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together; add sufficientflour to make it into a dough; cover it over. Let it stand half an hour;work it up again; break it into small pieces, roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of an hour, then bake them. 

PANCAKES. 

 With all her haughty looks, the time I've seen When the proud damsel has more humble been; When with nice airs she hoist the _pancake_ round, And dropt it, hapless fair! upon the ground. SHENSTONE. 

To three tablespoonfuls of flour add six well-beaten eggs, threetablespoonfuls of white wine, four ounces of melted butter nearly cold, the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar, half a grated nutmeg, and apint of cream. Mix it well, beating the batter for some time, and pourit thin over the pan. 

PLUM-CAKE. 

 First in place, _Plum-cake_ is seen o'er smaller pastry ware, And ice on that. SWIFT. 

Pick two pounds of currants very clean, and wash them, draining themthrough a cullender. Wipe them in a towel, spread them out in a largedish, and set them near the fire or in the hot sun to dry, placing thedish in a slanting position. Having stoned two pounds of best raisins, cut them in half, and when all are done, sprinkle them well with siftedflour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. When thecurrants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour. 

Pound the spice, two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two nutmegs, powdered;sift and mix the cinnamon and nutmeg together. Mix also a large glass ofwine and brandy, half a glass of rose-water in a tumbler or cup. Cut apound of citron in slips; sift a pound of flour in a broad dish, sift apound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut a poundof butter into it. Warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold forit to mix easily. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream; beat twelveeggs as light as possible; stir them into the butter and sugaralternately with the flour; stir very hard; add gradually the spice andliquor. Stir the raisins and currants alternately in the mixture, takingcare that they are well floured. Stir the whole as hard as possible, forten minutes after the ingredients are in. 

Cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan with sheets ofwhite paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. Thenspread some citron on it, which must not be cut too small; next put alayer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till all isin, having a layer of mixture at the top. 

This cake will require four or five hours baking, in proportion to itsthickness. 

Ice it next day. 

LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD. 

 Must see Rheims, much famed, 'tis said, For making kings and _gingerbread_. MOORE. 

Five eggs, half pound of brown sugar, half pound fresh butter, a pint ofsugarhouse molasses, a pound and a half of flour, four tablespoonfuls ofginger, two large sticks of cinnamon, three dozen grains of allspice, three dozen of cloves, juice and grated peel of two lemons. Stir thebutter and sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very well; pour the molassesat once into the butter and sugar. Add the ginger and other spice, andstir all well together. Put in the eggs and flour alternately, stirringall the time. Stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at thelast. When the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. Butter anearthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it. Bake it in a moderate oven an hour or more, according to its thickness, or you may bake it in small cakes or little tins. 

SHREWSBURY CAKES. 

 And here each season do _those cakes_ abide, Whose honored names the inventive city own, Rendering through Britain's isle Salopia's praises known. SHENSTONE. 

Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon and a nutmeg grated, intothree pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose-water to threeeggs well beaten; mix these with the flour, &c. ; then pour into it asmuch butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll out. 

Stir it well, and roll thin; cut it into such shapes as you like. Bakeon tins. 

HONEY-CAKE. 

 In vain the circled loaves attempt to lie Concealed in flaskets from my curious eye; In vain the cheeses, offspring of the pail, Or _honeyed cakes_, which gods themselves regale. PARNELL. 

One pound and a half of dried sifted flour, three quarters of a pound ofhoney, half a pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a poundof citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel cut small, of powderedginger and cinnamon, three quarters of an ounce. Melt the sugar with thehoney, and mix in the other ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut itinto small cakes of any form. 

NAPLES BISCUITS. 

 Though I've consulted Holinshed and Stow, I find it very difficult to know Who, to refresh the attendants to a grave, Burnt claret first or _Naples biscuit_ gave. KING. 

Put three quarters of a pound of fine flour to a pound of powderedsugar; sift both together three times; then add six eggs beaten well, and a spoonful of rose-water; when the oven is nearly hot, bake them. 

GINGERBREAD. 

 Whence oft with sugared cates she doth 'em greet, And _gingerbread_, if rare, now certes doubly sweet. SHENSTONE. 

To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg strained; mix fourounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace, allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce; beat all as fine aspossible; melt one pound of butter, and mix with the above: add as muchflour as will knead it into a pretty stiff paste; roll it out, and cutit in cakes. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

 On _cake_ luxuriously I dine, And drink the fragrance of the vine, Studious of elegance and ease, Myself alone I seek to please. GAY. 

Take the juice and grated rind of a lemon, twelve eggs, twelve ounces offinely pounded loaf sugar, the same of dried and sifted flour; then, beat the yolks of ten eggs; add the sugar by degrees, and beat it tillit will stand when dropped from the spoon; put in at separate times thetwo other eggs, yolks, and whites; whisk the ten whites for eightminutes, and mix in the lemon-juice, and when quite stiff, take as muchas the whisk will lift, and put it upon the yolks and sugar, which mustbe beaten all the time; mix in lightly all the flour and grated peel, and pour it gradually over the whites; stir it together, and bake it ina large buttered tin or small ones; do not more than half fill them. 

SUGAR BISCUITS. 

 This happy hour elapsed and gone, The time of drinking tea comes on. The kettle filled, the water boiled, The cream provided, the _biscuits_ piled. And lamp prepared; I straight engage The Lilliputian equipage Of dishes, sauces, spoons, and tongs, And all the et ceteras which thereto belongs. DODSLEY. 

The weight of eight eggs in finely pounded loaf sugar, and of four indried flour; beat separately the whites and yolks; with the yolks beatthe sugar for half an hour; then add the whites and the flour, and alittle grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, or pounded cinnamon. Bake them asFrench biscuits. 

DERBY CAKE. 

 Some bring a capon, some _Derby cake_, Some nuts, some apples, some that think they make The better cheesecakes, bring them. 

Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of siftedflour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and oneegg; mix all together with half pint of milk; roll it out thin, and cutit into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, andput them into a middling heated oven for about ten minutes. 

CRACKNELS. 

 However, you shall home with me tonight, Forget your cares, and revel in delight; I have in store a pint or two of wine, Some _cracknels_, and the remnant of a chine. SWIFT. 

Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and pound them to a fine paste, adding to them by degrees six eggs, when thoroughly pounded; pour onthem a pound of powdered sugar, the same of butter, and the rinds of twolemons grated; beat up these ingredients in the mortar; put a pound offlour on a slab, and having poured the almond paste upon it, knead themtogether till they are well incorporated; roll it out, and cut thecracknels into such forms as you think proper; rub them with yolk ofegg, and strew over them powdered sugar or cinnamon; then lay them on abuttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking great care theydo not burn. 

CHEESECAKES. 

 Treat here, ye shepherds blithe! your damsels sweet, For pies and _cheesecakes_ are for damsels meet. GAY. 

Put two quarts of new milk into a stewpan; set it near the fire, andstir in two tablespoonfuls of rennet; let it stand till it is set (thiswill take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let itremain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curdinto a cullender to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and poundit quite smooth; then add four ounces of powdered sugar, and threeounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little pottingpot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together; beat theyolks of four eggs in a basin with a little nutmeg grated, lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces of currantswashed and picked; stir it all well together; have your tins readylined with puff paste, about a quarter of an inch thick; notch them allround the edge, and fill each with the curd. 

Bake them twenty minutes. 

BRIDE CAKE. 

 The bridal came; great the feast, And good the _bride cake_ and the priest. SMART. 

Take four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, pounded andsifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and the same quantity ofnutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and pick fourpounds of currants, and dry them before the fire; blanch a pound ofsweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, apound of candied orange, a pound of candied lemon, and half pint ofbrandy; first work the butter to a cream; then beat in your sugar aquarter of an hour; beat the white of your eggs to a very strong froth;mix them with your sugar and butter; beat the yolks half an hour atleast, and mix them with your cake; then put in your flour, mace, andnutmeg; keep beating it till your oven is ready; put in your brandy;beat the currants and almonds lightly in; tie three sheets of paperround the bottoms of your hoops, to keep it from running out; rub itwell with butter; put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers, with cake between every layer; after it is risen and colored, cover itwith paper. 

It takes three hours baking. 

KISSES. 

 "I never give a _kiss_, " says Prue, "To naughty man, for I abhor it. " She will not give a _kiss_, 'tis true, She'll take one, though, and thank you for it. FROM THE FRENCH. 

One pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted, the whites offour eggs, twelve drops of essence of lemon, a teacup of currant jelly. Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat ingradually the sugar, a teaspoonful at a time. Add the essence of lemon, and beat the whole very hard. Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom ofa square tin pan. Drop on it at equal distances a small teaspoonful ofcurrant jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of eggsand sugar on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. Drop on themixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a roundsmooth shape. Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored, they are done. Then take them out, and place two bottoms together. Laythem lightly on a sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the twobottoms stick fast together, so as to form one oval or ball. 

SWEET MACAROONS. 

 Where _cakes_ luxuriant pile the spacious dish, And purple nectar glads the festive hour, The guest, without a want, without a wish, Can yield no room to music's soothing power. JOHNSON. 

Blanch a pound of sweet almonds; throw them into cold water for a fewminutes; lay them in a napkin to dry, and leave them for twenty-fourhours; at the end of that time, pound them, a handful at a time, addingoccasionally some white of egg, till the whole is reduced to a finepaste; then take two pounds of the best lump sugar; pound and sift it;then put it to the almonds with the grated rinds of two lemons; beatthese ingredients together in the mortar, adding, one at a time, as manyeggs as you find necessary to moisten the paste, which should be thin, but not too much so, as in that case it would run; your paste beingready, take out a little in a spoon, and lay the macaroons on sheets ofwhite paper, either round or oval, as you please; lay them at least aninch apart, because they spread in baking, and, if put nearer, wouldtouch. 

The whole of your paste being used, place the sheets of paper on tins ina moderate oven for three quarters of an hour. 

This kind of cake requires great care. 

SYLLABUB. 

 Mountown! the Muses' most delicious theme, O, may thy codlins ever swim in cream! The rasp and strawberries in Bordeaux drown, To add a redder tincture to their own! Thy white wine, sugar, milk, together club, To make that gentle viand--_syllabub_! KING. 

 Not all thy plate, how formed soe'er it be, Can please my palate like a bowl of thee. BARLOW. 

In a large china bowl put a pint of port and a pint of sherry, or otherwhite wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full; in twenty minutes coverit pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg; put poundedcinnamon and nonpareil comfits. It is very good without the nonpareilcomfits. 

BEER OR ALE. 

 O, Peggy, Peggy! when thou goest to brew, Consider well what you're about to do; Be very wise, very sedately think That what you're now going to make is _drink_; Consider who must drink that drink, and then What 'tis to have the praise of _honest_ men; For surely, Peggy, while that drink does last, 'Tis Peggy will be _toasted or disgraced_. Then if thy _ale_ in glass thou wouldst confine, To make its sparkling rays in beauty shine, Let thy clean bottle be entirely dry, Lest a white substance to the surface fly, And floating there disturb the curious eye; But this great maxim must be understood, "_Be sure, nay very sure, thy cork be good_. " Then future ages shall of Peggy tell, That nymph that _brewed and bottled ale so well_! KING. 

Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; foreither, pour the whole quantity of water, hot, but not boiling, on atonce, and let it infuse three hours, close covered; mash it in the firsthalf hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on thehops, previously infused in water; for beer, three quarters of a poundto a bushel; if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort, twohours, from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful; then add threequarts of yeast, which will prepare it for putting to the rest whenready next day; but, if possible, put together the same night. Sun, asusual. Cover the bunghole with paper, when the beer has done working;and when it is to be stopped, have ready a pound and a half of hops, dried before the fire; put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up. 

Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it bedrank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should bebrewed in the beginning of March. Great care must be taken that bottlesare perfectly prepared, and _the corks are of the best sort_. 

The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the vent-peg benever removed, it will have spirit and strength to the last. Allow twogallons of water, at first, for waste. 

After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a halffor the twelve bushels; and a hogshead of water, if eight were brewed. Mash, and let stand; and then boil, &c. 

ORIGIN OF MINT JULEPS. 

 'Tis said that the gods, on Olympus of old, (And who the bright legend profanes with a doubt!) One night, 'mid their revels, by Bacchus were told, That his last butt of nectar had somehow run out. 

 But determined to send round the goblet once more, They sued to the fairer mortals for aid In composing a draught, which till drinking were o'er, Should cast every wine ever drank in the shade. 

 Grave Ceres herself blithely yielded her corn, And the spirit that lives in each amber-hued grain, And which first had its birth from the dews of the morn, Was taught to steal out in bright dew-drops again. 

 Pomona, whose choicest of fruits on the board Were scattered profusely, in every one's reach, When called on a tribute to cull from the hoard, Express'd the mild juice of the delicate peach. 

 The liquids were mingled, while Venus looked on, With glances so fraught with sweet magical power, That the honey of Hybla, e'en when they were gone, Has never been missed in the draught from that hour. 

 Flora then from her bosom of fragrancy shook, And with roseate fingers pressed down in the bowl, All dripping and fresh as it came from the brook, The _herb_ whose aroma should flavor the whole. 

 The draught was delicious, each god did exclaim, Though something yet wanting they all did bewail; But _juleps_ the drink of immortals became, When Jove himself added a handful of hail. HOFFMAN. 

PUNCH. 

 Four elements, joined in An emulous strife, Fashion the world, and Constitute life. 

 From the sharp citron The starry juice pour; Acid to life is The innermost core. 

 Now, let the sugar The bitter one meet; Still be life's bitter Tamed down with the sweet!

 Let the bright water Flow into the bowl; Water, the calm one, Embraces the whole. 

 Drops from the spirit Pour quick'ning within, Life but its life from The spirit can win. 

 Haste, while it gloweth, Your vessels to bring; The wave has but virtue Drunk hot from the spring. TRANSLATED FROM SCHILLER. 

INDEX. 

 A la Braise, Beef, 37 Artichokes, 75 Asparagus, 80 Apple Dumplings, 106 Apple Pudding, 100 Almond Creams, 111 Ale, 133

 Broth, Chicken, 24 Boiled Salmon, 29 Beef, Roast, 36 Beef, Baked with Potatoes, 38 Beef, Ragout, 39 Beef, Kidneys, 39 Broiled Beefsteaks, 40 Beef, Salt, 42 Birds, Potted, 58 Beans, Lima, 75 Batter Pudding, 105 Butter, 115 Bread, 112 Bride Cake, 128 Biscuits, Naples, 123 Biscuits, Sugar, 125 Buckwheat Cakes, 117 Beer, 133

 Calf's Liver, Roasted, 44 Calf's Head, Surprised, 45 Calf's Head, Roasted, 46 Capon, 51 Chicken Croquettes, 51 Carrots, 81 Cranberry Sauce, 70 Caper Sauce, 70 Cabbage, Pickled, 85 Cocoanut Pudding, 100 Charlotte des Pommes, 104 Custards or Creams, 111 Custards, Boiled, 110 Cottage Cheese, 116 Cheesecakes, 127 Cracknels, 126

 Derby Cakes, 126

 Eggs, To Poach, 91 Eggs, Boiled, 92 Eggs and Bread, 93 Eggs, Fried, 93 Eve's Pudding, 104

 Fish White, To Stew, 25 Fish White, Another Way to Stew, 26 Fish Brown, To Stew, 27 Forcemeat Balls, 60 Fowl à la Hollandaise, 49 Fruit Pies, 96 Fritters, 107 Fritters, Sweetmeat, 106

 Gingerbread, Lafayette, 121 Gingerbread, 124

 Hams, To Cure, 52 Ham Pies, 53 Hare, Roasted, 54 Herbs, 82 Hasty Pudding, 101 Honey Cake, 123

 Ice Cream, 109 Indian and Rye Bread, 114

 Jelly, Currant, 87 Jelly, Cherry, 89 Jelly, Apple, 88 Jelly, Calves' feet, 89 Johnny Cakes, 118

 Ketchup, Mushroom, 65 Kisses, 129

 Lobster, Boiled, 30 Larks, 58 Leeks, 81

 Mutton, Leg of, 52 Macaroni Gratin, 63 Mint Sauce, 69 Mushrooms, To Stew, 64 Mangoes, 84 Mince Pies, 98 Macaroons, Sweet, 130 Muffins, 118 Mint Juleps, Origin of, 135

 Naples Biscuit, 123

 Oatmeal Pudding, 103 Oysters, 31 Oysters, Fried, 31 Oysters, Stewed, 32 Oysters, Scalloped, 33 Oyster Loaves, 33 Oyster Pattie, 62 Ortolans, To Roast, 56 Onion Sauce, 74 Omelet, 91 Omelette, Soufflé, 94 Orange Custards, 110

 Perch with Wine, 27 Patties for Fried Bread, 62 Pheasants, To Roast, 56 Potatoes, 76 Peas, 78 Pineapple Preserve, 90 Puff Paste, 95 Pyramid Paste, 96 Plum Pudding, 99 Plum Cake, 120 Pancakes, 119 Punch, 137

 Roasted Sturgeon, 28 Rabbits, Fricasseed, 54 Rice, 79 Rye Bread, 114

 Soup, Turtle, 21 Scotch Haggis, 41 Scotch Collops, 44 Salmis of Wild Duck, 47 Stewed Duck and Peas, 48 Salad, To Dress, 73 Spinach, 79 Sponge Cake, 124 Superlative Sauce, 68 Syllabub, 132 Sugar, To Clarify, 86 Suet Pudding, 103 Shrewsbury Cakes, 122

 Tongues, To Pickle, for Boiling, 43 Truffles, 63 Turkey, Boiled, 50 Turkey, Devilled, 50 Turnips, 79

 Venison, 35 Venison, Pasty, 36 Veal, Stewed Fillet, 45 Veal, Stuffing for, 60 Vol au Vent, 61 Vegetables, 72

 Woodcocks, 57 Whipped Cream, 109

 Yorkshire Pudding, 102 Yeast, 112

Transcriber's Note

 The following typographical errors have been fixed:

 Page Error 44 stew the liver changed to sew the liver Footnote 56-* leur foie. ' changed to leur foie. " 74 KING changed to KING. 77 uncover the soucepan changed to uncover the saucepan 126 to night changed to tonight

 Inconsistently spelled words

 Cawthorn / Cawthorne fryingpan / frying-pan lemon juice / lemon-juice patés / pâtés peppercorns / pepper-corns stewpan / stew-pan