A

 NEW GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS

 TO THE

 WEST, CONTAINING SKETCHES OF

 OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, MICHIGAN, WITH THE TERRITORIES OF WISCONSIN AND ARKANSAS, AND THE ADJACENT PARTS. 

 BY J. M. PECK, A. M. 

 OF ROCK SPRING, ILL

 BOSTON:

 GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN. 

 FOR SALE BY THE BOOKSELLERS IN THE UNITED STATES. 

 1836. 

 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1836, By GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 

INDEX. 

 CHAP. I. 

 GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

 Extent--Subdivisions--Population--Physical Features--Animal, Vegetable and Mineral Productions--History--Prospective Increase of Population, 11

 CHAP. II. 

 GENERAL VIEW, &C. , CONTINUED. 

 Productions, 32

 CHAP. III. 

 CLIMATE. 

 Comparative View of the Climate with the Atlantic States--Diseases--Means of Preserving Health, 37

 CHAP. IV. 

 CHARACTER, MANNERS AND PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE. 

 Cotton and Sugar Planters--Farmers--Population of the large Towns and Cities--Frontier Class--Hunters and Trappers--Boatmen, 102

 CHAP. V. 

 PUBLIC LANDS. 

 System of Surveys--Meridian and Base Lines--Townships--Diagram of a Township surveyed into Sections--Land Districts and Offices--Pre-emption Rights--Military and Bounty Lands--Taxes--Valuable Tracts of Country unsettled, 130

 CHAP. VI. 

 ABORIGINES. 

 Conjecture respecting their former Numbers and Condition-- Present Number and State--Indian Territory appropriated as their Permanent Residence--Plan and Operations of the U. S. Government--Missionary Efforts and Stations--Monuments and Antiquities, 144

 CHAP. VII. 

 WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 

 Face of the Country--Soil, Agriculture and Internal Improvements--Chief Towns--Pittsburg--Coal--Sulphur and Hot Springs--Wheeling, 163

 CHAP. VIII. 

 MICHIGAN. 

 Extent--Situation--Boundaries--Face of the Country--Rivers--Lakes, &c. --Soil and Productions--Subdivisions--Counties--Towns-- Detroit--Education--Internal Improvements projected--Boundary Dispute--Outline of the Constitution, 179

 CHAP. IX. 

 OHIO. 

 Boundaries--Divisions--Face of the Country--Soil and Productions--Animals--Minerals--Financial Statistics--Canal Fund--Expenditures--Land Taxes--School Fund--Statistics-- Canal Revenues--Population at different Periods--Internal Improvements--Manufactures--Cities and Towns--Cincinnati-- Columbus--Education--Form of Government--History, 193

 CHAP. X. 

 INDIANA. 

 Boundaries and Extent--Counties--Population--Face of the Country, &c. --Sketch of each County--Form of Government-- Finances--Internal Improvements--Manufactures--Education-- History--General Remarks, 222

 CHAP. XI. 

 ILLINOIS. 

 Boundaries and Extent--Face of the Country and Qualities of Soil--Inundated Land--River Bottoms, or Alluvion--Prairies-- Barrens--Forest, or timbered Land--Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines and Sink Holes--Rivers, &c. --Productions--Minerals--Lead, Coal, Salt, &c. --Vegetables--Animals--Manufactures--Civil Divisions--Tabular View of the Counties--Sketches of each County--Towns--Alton--Projected Improvements--Education-- Government--General Remarks, 251

 CHAP. XII. 

 MISSOURI. 

 Extent and Boundaries--Civil Divisions--Population--Surface, Soil and Productions--Towns--St. Louis, 315

 CHAP. XIII. 

 ARKANSAS AND TERRITORIAL DISTRICTS. 

 ARKANSAS. --Situation and Extent--Civil Divisions-- Rivers--Face of the Country--Soil--Water--Productions-- Climate--Minerals--State of Society. WISCONSIN. Boundaries and Extent--Rivers--Soil--Productions--Towns, &c. , 323

 CHAP. XIV. 

 LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS FOR THE WEST. 

 Colleges--Statistical Sketch of each Religious Denomination --Roman Catholics--Field for Effort, and Progress made-- Theological Institutions--Deaf and Dumb Asylums--Medical Institutions--Law Schools--Benevolent and Religious Societies--Periodical Press, 334

 CHAP. XV. 

 SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. 

 Modes of Travel--Canal, Steamboat and Stage Routes--Other Modes of Travel--Expenses--Roads, Distances, &c. , 364

INTRODUCTION. 

Much has been published already about the WEST, --the GREATWEST, --the VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. --But no portion ofthis immense and interesting region, is so much the subject of inquiry, and so particularly excites the attention of the emigrant, as the Statesof Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Michigan, with the adjacentterritorial regions. 

All these States have come into existence as such, with the exception ofOhio, within the last twenty years; and much of the territory, nowadorned by the hand of civilization, and spread over with anenterprising, industrious and intelligent people, --the field of publicimprovements in Canals and Railways, --of Colleges, Churches, and otherinstitutions, was the hunting ground of the aborigines, and the scene ofborder warfare. These States have been unparalleled in their growth, both in the increase of population and property, and in the advance ofintellectual and moral improvement. Such an extent of forest was neverbefore cleared, --such a vast field of prairie was never before subduedand cultivated by the hand of man, in the same short period of time. Cities, and towns, and villages, and counties, and States never beforerushed into existence, and made such giant strides, as upon this field. 

"_Who hath heard such a thing? Who hath seen such things? Shall theearth be made to bring forth in one day? or shall a nation be born atonce?_" Isaiah, LXVI. 8. 

The rapid increase of population will be exhibited in a tabular form inthe following pages, and other parts showing that the generalimprovement of the country, and the development of its physical, intellectual and moral resources have kept pace with the extension ofsettlements. And such are its admirable facilities for commerce by itsnumerous navigable rivers, and its lines of canals, some of which arefinished, and many others commenced or projected, --such the richness ofits soil, and the variety of its productions, --such the genial nature ofits climate, --the enterprise of its population, --and the influence itmust soon wield in directing the destinies of the whole United States, as to render the GREAT WEST an object of the deepest interestto the American patriot. To the philanthropist and christian, thecharacter and manners, --the institutions, literature and religion of sowide a portion of our country, whose mighty energies are soon to exert acontrolling influence over the character of the whole nation, and insome measure, of the world, are not less matters of momentous concern. 

"The West is a young empire of mind, and power, and wealth, and freeinstitutions, rushing up to a giant manhood, with a rapidity and powernever before witnessed below the sun. And if she carries with her theelements of her preservation, the experiment will be glorious, --the joyof the nation, --the joy of the whole earth, as she rises in the majestyof her intelligence and benevolence, and enterprise, for theemancipation of the world. "--_Beecher. _

Amongst the causes that have awakened the attention of the community inthe Atlantic States, to this Great Valley, and excited the desires ofmultitudes to remove hither, may be reckoned the efforts of the liberaland benevolent to aid the West in the immediate supply of her populationwith the Bible, with Sunday Schools, with religious tracts, with thegospel ministry, and to lay the foundation for Colleges and otherliterary institutions. Hundreds of families, who might otherwise haveremained in the crowded cities and densely populated neighborhoods oftheir ancestors, have had their attention directed to these States as apermanent home. And thousands more of virtuous and industrious familieswould follow, and fix their future residence on our prairies, and in ourwestern forests, cultivate our wild lands, --aid in building up ourtowns and cities, and diffuse a healthful moral and intellectualinfluence through the mass of our present population, could they feelassured that they can reach some portion of the Western Valley withoutgreat risk and expense, --provide for their families comfortably, and notbe swept off by sickness, or overwhelmed by suffering, beyond what isincident to any new country. 

The author's first book, "A GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS, " &c. Waswritten in the winter and spring of 1831, to answer the pressing callthen made for information of these western states, but more especiallythat of Illinois;--but many of its particulars, as to the character andusages of the people, manners and customs, modes of erecting buildings, general characteristics and qualities of soil, productions, &c. Wereapplicable to the West generally. 

Since that period, brief as it has been, wide and rapid changes havebeen made, population has rapidly augmented, beyond that of any formerperiod of the same extent;--millions of acres of the public domain, thenwild and hardly explored, have been brought into market; settlements andcounties have been formed, and populous towns have sprung up where, atthat time, the Indian and wild beast had possession; facilities forintercommunication have been greatly extended, and distant places havebeen brought comparatively near; the desire to emigrate to the west hasincreased, and everybody in the Atlantic states has become interestedand inquires about the Great Valley. That respectable place, so much thetheme of declamation and inquiry abroad, "_The Far West_, " has gone fromthis region towards the setting sun. Its exact locality has not yet beensettled, but probably it may soon be found along the gulf of California, or near Nootka Sound. And if distance is to be measured by time, and thefacility of intercourse, we are now several hundred miles nearer theAtlantic coast than twenty years since. Ten years more, and thefacilities of railways and improved machinery will place the Mississippiwithin seven day's travel of Boston, --six days of Washington city, andfive days of Charleston, S. C. 

To give a brief, and yet correct account of a portion of this GreatValley, its resources, the manners and customs of its inhabitants, itspolitical subdivisions, cities, commercial and other important towns, colleges and other literary institutions, religious condition, publiclands, qualities of soil and general features of each state andterritory named in the title page, together with such information as mayform a kind of manual for the emigrant and man of business, or which mayaid him on his journey hither, and enable him to surmount successfullythe difficulties of a new country, is the object of this new work. Inaccomplishing this task the author has aimed at _correctness_ and_brevity_. To condense the particular kind of information called for bythe public mind in a small space, has been no easy task. Nor has it beena small matter to collect from so wide a range as five large states, andtwo extensive territories, with other large districts, the facts andstatistical information often found in the compass of less than a page. 

It is an easy task to a belles-lettre scholar, sitting at his desk, inan easy chair, and by a pleasant fire, to write "Histories, " and"Geographies, " and "Sketches, " and "Recollections, " and "Views, " and"Tours" of the Western Valley, --but it is quite another concern toexplore these regions, examine public documents, reconcile contradictorystatements, correspond with hundreds of persons in public and privatelife, read all the histories, geographies, tours, sketches, andrecollections that have been published, and correct their numerouserrors, --then collate, arrange, digest, and condense the facts of thecountry. Those who have read his former "GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS, "will find upon perusal, that this is radically a _new work_--rather thana new edition. Its whole plan is changed; and though some whole pages ofthe former work are retained, and many of its facts and particularsgiven in a more condensed form, much of that work being before thepublic in other forms, he has been directed, both by his own judgment, and the solicitude of the public mind in the Atlantic states, to give tothe work its present form and features. 

There are three classes of persons in particular who may deriveadvantage from this Guide. 

1. All those who intend to remove to the states and territoriesdescribed. Such persons, whether citizens of the Atlantic states, ornatives of Europe, will find in this small volume, much of that speciesof information for which they are solicitous. 

It has been a primary object of the author throughout this work, tofurnish the outline of facts necessary for this class. He is aware alsothat much in detail will be desired and eagerly sought after, which theportable and limited size of this little work could not contain; butsuch information may be found in the larger works, by Hall, Flint, Darby, Schoolcraft, Long, and other authors and travellers. Those whodesire more specific and detailed descriptions of Illinois, will besatisfied probably with the author's GAZETTEER of that State, published in 1834, and which can be had by application to the author, orto the publishers of this work. 

2. This Guide is also designed for those, who, for either pleasure, health or business, intend to travel through the western States. Suchare now the facilities of intercommunication between the eastern andwestern States, and to most points in the Valley of the Mississippi, that thousands are visiting some portions of this interesting regionevery month. Some knowledge of the routes that lead to different partsof this Valley, the lines of steamboats and stages, cities, towns, public institutions, manners and customs of the people, &c. , iscertainly desirable to all who travel. Such persons may expect acorrect, and it is hoped, a pleasant Guide in this book. 

3. There is a numerous class of persons in the Atlantic States, whodesire to know more about the Great West and to have a book forreference, who do not expect to emigrate here. Many are deeplyinterested in its moral welfare. They have cheerfully contributed toestablish and build up its literary and religious institutions, and yetfrom want of access to those facts which exist amongst us, theirinformation is but partial and limited. The author in his travels in theAtlantic states has met with many persons, who, though well informed onother subjects, are surprisingly ignorant of the actual condition, resources, society, manners of the people, and even the geography ofthese states and territories. The author is aware of the difficulty ofconveying entirely correct ideas of this region to a person who hasnever travelled beyond the borders of his native state. The laws andhabits of associating ideas in the human mind forbid it. 

The chief source of information for those states that lie on theMississippi, has been the personal observation of the author, --havingexplored most of the settlements in Missouri and Illinois, and a portionof Indiana and Ohio, --having spent more than eighteen years here, andseen the two former states, from an incipient territorial form ofgovernment, and a few scattered and detached settlements, arise to theirpresent state of improvement, population, wealth and nationalimportance. His next source of information has been from personalacquaintance and correspondence with many intelligent citizens of thestates and territories he describes. Reference has also been had to theworks of Hall, Flint, Darby, Breckenridge, Beck, Long, Schoolcraft, Lewis and Clarke, Mitchell's and Tanner's maps, Farmer's map ofMichigan, Turnbull's map of Ohio, The Ohio Gazetteer, The IndianaGazetteer, Dr. Drake's writings, Mr. Coy's Annual Register of Indianaffairs, Ellicott's surveys, and several periodicals. 

 J. M. P. 

 _Rock Spring, Illinois, January, 1836. _

CHAPTER I. 

GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

Its extent, --Subdivisions, --Population, --Physical features, --Animal, Vegetable and Mineral productions, --History, --Prospective increase ofPopulation. 

The Valley of the Mississippi, in its proper geographical extent, embraces all that portion of the United States, lying between theAlleghany and Rocky Mountains, the waters of which are discharged intothe gulf of Mexico, through the mouths of the Mississippi. I haveembraced, however, under that general term, a portion of the countrybordering on the northern lakes, including the north part of Ohio, thenorth-eastern portions of Indiana and Illinois, the whole of Michigan, with a considerable territorial district on the west side of lakeMichigan, and around lake Superior. 

_Extent. _ This great Valley is one of the largest divisions of theglobe, the waters of which pass one estuary. 

To suppose the United States and its territory to be divided into threeportions, the arrangement would be, the Atlantic slope--the Mississippibasin, or valley--and the Pacific slope. 

A glance on any map of North America, will show that this Valleyincludes about two thirds of the territory of the United States. TheAtlantic slope contains about 390, 000; the Pacific slope, about 300, 000;which, combined, are 690, 000 square miles: while the Valley of theMississippi contains at least 1, 300, 000 square miles, or 833, 000, 000acres. 

This Valley extends from the 29° to the 49° of N. Latitude, or about1400 miles from south to north; and from the 3° to the 35° of longitudewest from Washington, or about 1470 miles from east to west. From thesource of the Alleghany river to the sources of the Missouri, followingthe meanderings of the streams, is not less than 5000 miles. 

_Subdivisions. _ The states and territories included, are a small sectionof New York watered by the heads of the Alleghany river, westernPennsylvania, western Virginia, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Michigan, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Territory ofArkansas, Indian Territory, the vast unsettled regions lying to the westand north of this Territory, the Wisconsin Territory including anextensive country west of the Mississippi and north of the state ofMissouri, with the vast regions that lie towards the heads of theMississippi, and around lake Superior. [1]

_Population. _ The following table, gives a comparative view of thepopulation of the Valley of the Mississippi, and shows the proportionalincrease of the several States, parts of States, and Territories, from1790 to the close of 1835, a period of 45 years. The column for 1835 ismade up partly from the census taken in several states and territories, and partly by estimation. It is sufficiently accurate for generalpurposes. 

 States, parts of | 1790 | 1800 | 1810 | 1820 | 1830 | 1835 States and | | | | | | Territories. | | | | | | ====================+=======+=======+=========+=========+=========+========== Western Pennsylvania| 75, 000|130, 000| 240, 000 | 290, 000| 380, 000| 490, 000 and a fraction of | | | | | | New York. } | | | | | | Western Virginia | 45, 000| 75, 000| 100, 000| 147, 178| 204, 175| 230, 000 Ohio | [_a_]45, 000| 230, 760| 581, 434| 937, 679|1, 375, 000 Indiana | | | 24, 520| 147, 178| 341, 582| 600, 000 Illinois | | | 12, 282| 55, 211| 157, 575| 272, 427 Missouri | | [_b_]20, 845| 66, 586| 140, 074| 210, 000 Michigan | | | 4, 762| 8, 896| 31, 000| 83, 000 Kentucky | 73, 677|220, 959| 406, 511| 564, 317| 688, 844| 748, 844 Tennessee | 35, 691|105, 602| 261, 727| 422, 813| 684, 822| 735, 000 Mississippi | [_c_]8, 850| 40, 352| 75, 448| 136, 806| 300, 000 Louisiana | | | 76, 556| 153, 407| 214, 693| 270, 000 Arkansas Territory | | | | 14, 273| 30, 608| 51, 809 [_e_]Wisconsin Ter. | | | | | | and New purchase | | | | [_d_]3, 608| 15, 000 --------------------+-------+-------+---------+---------+---------+--------- Total |229, 368|585, 411|1, 418, 315|2, 526, 741|3, 951, 466|5, 381, 080 ====================+=======+=======+=========+=========+=========+========= _a_ Including Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan. 

 _b_ Including Arkansas. 

 _c_ Including Alabama. 

 _d_ Included with Michigan in the census of 1830. 

 _e_: The country west of the Mississippi, and north of the State of Missouri, was ceded by the Sauk Indians, Sept. 1832. It now contains about 6000 inhabitants. 

Probably there is no portion of the globe, of equal extent, thatcontains as much of soil fit for cultivation, and which is capable ofsustaining and supplying with all the necessaries and conveniences, andmost of the luxuries of life, so dense a population as this greatValley. Deducting one third of its surface for water and desert, whichis a very liberal allowance, and there remains 866, 667 square miles, or554, 666, 880 acres of arable land. 

Let it become as populous as Massachusetts, which contains 610, 014inhabitants on an area of 7, 800 square miles, or seventy-eight to every640 acres, and the population of this immense region will amount to67, 600, 000. The child is now born which will live to see this result. Suppose its population to become equally dense with England, includingWales, which contains 207 to the square mile, and its numbers willamount to 179, 400, 000. But let it become equal to the Netherlands, themost populous country on the globe, containing 230 to the square mile, and the Valley of the Mississippi teems with a population of 200millions, a result which may be had in the same time that New Englandhas been gathering its two millions. What reflections ought this view topresent to the patriot, the philanthropist, and the christian. 

_Physical Features. _ The physical features of this Valley are peculiar. 

1. It includes two great inclined planes, one on its eastern, and theother on its western border, terminating with the Mississippi. 

2. This river receives all the waters produced on these slopes, whichare discharged by its mouths into the gulf of Mexico. 

3. Every part of this vast region can be penetrated by steamboats, orother water craft; nor is there a spot in all this wide region, excepting a small district in the vast plains of Upper Missouri, that ismore than one hundred miles from some navigable water. A boat may takein its lading on the banks of the Chatauque lake, in the State of NewYork; another may receive its cargo in the interior of Virginia; a thirdmay start from the rice lakes at the head of the Mississippi; and afourth may come laden with furs from the Chippewan mountains, 2, 800miles up the Missouri, and all meet at the mouth of the Ohio, andproceed in company to the ocean. 

4. With the exception of its eastern and western borders, there are nomountains. Some portions are level, a large part is gently undulating, or what in the west is called "rolling, " and the remainder is made up ofabrupt hills, flint and limestone ridges, bluffs, and ravines. 

5. It is divided into two great portions, the UPPER, andLOWER VALLEY, according to its general features, climate, staple productions, and habits of its population. The parallel oflatitude that cuts the mouth of the Ohio river, will designate theseportions with sufficient accuracy. 

North of this line the seasons are regularly divided into spring, summer, autumn, and winter. In the winter there is usually more or lesssnow, ice forms and frequently blocks up the rivers, navigation isobstructed, and cotton is not produced in sufficient quantity or qualityto make it a staple for exportation. It is the region of furs, minerals, tobacco, hemp, live stock, and every description of grain and fruit thatgrows in New England. Its white population are mostly accustomed tolabor. 

South of this line, cotton, tobacco, indigo, and sugar are staples. Ithas little winter, snow seldom covers the earth, ice never obstructs therivers, and most of the labor is done by slaves. 

_Rivers. _ The rivers are, the Mississippi and its tributaries, or morecorrectly, the Missouri and its tributaries. If we except the Amazon, noriver can compare with this for length of its course, the number andextent of its tributaries, the vast country they drain, and theircapabilities for navigation. Its tributaries generally issue either fromthe eastern or western mountains, and flow over this immense region, diffusing not only fertility to the soil, but affording facilities forcommerce a great part of the year. 

The Missouri is unquestionably the main stream, for it is not onlylonger and discharges a larger volume of water than the Mississippiabove its mouth, but it has branches, which, for the extent of countrythey drain, their length, and the volume of water they discharge, farexceed the upper Mississippi. 

The characteristics of these two rivers are each distinctly marked. TheMissouri is turbid, violent in its motions, changing its currents; itsnavigation is interrupted or made difficult by snags, sawyers andplanters, and it has many islands and sand-bars. Such is the characterof the Mississippi below the mouth of the Missouri. But above its mouth, its waters are clear, its current gentle, while it is comparatively freefrom snags and sand-bars. 

The Missouri, which we have shown to be the principal stream, rises inthe Chippewan, or Rocky mountains in latitude 44° north, and longitudeabout 35° west from Washington city. It runs a northeast course tillafter it receives the Yellow Stone, when it reaches past the 48° oflatitude, thence an east, then a south, and finally a southeasterncourse, until it meets the current of the Mississippi, 20 miles aboveSt. Louis, and in latitude 38° 45' north. Besides numerous smallerstreams, the Missouri receives the Yellow Stone and Platte, which ofthemselves, in any other part of the world, would be called largerivers, together with the Sioux, Kansau, Grand, Chariton, Osage, andGasconade, all large and navigable rivers. 

Its length, upon an entire comparative course, is 1870 miles, and upon aparticular course, about 3000 miles. Lewis and Clark make the distancefrom the Mississippi to the great falls, 2580 miles. 

There are several things in some respects peculiar to this river, whichdeserve notice. 

1. Its current is very rapid, usually at the rate of four or five milesan hour, when at its height; and it requires a strong wind to propel aboat with a sail against it. Steam overcomes its force, for boats plyregularly from St. Louis to the towns and landings on its banks withinthe borders of the state, and return with the produce of the country. Small steamboats have gone to the Yellow Stone for furs. 

Owing to the shifting of its current, and its snags and sand-bars, itsnavigation is less safe and pleasant than any other western river, butthese difficulties are every year lessened by genius and enterprise. 

2. Its water is always turbid, being of a muddy, ash color, though moreso at its periodical rise than at other times. This is caused byextremely fine sand, received from the neighborhood of the Yellow Stone. During the summer flood, a tumbler of water taken from the Missouri, andprecipitated, will produce about one fourth of its bulk in sediment. 

This sediment does not prevent its habitual use by hundreds who live onits banks, or move in boats over its surface. Some filtrate it, but manymore drink it, and use it for culinary purposes, in its natural state. 

When entirely filtrated, it is the most limpid and agreeable riverwater I ever saw. Its specific gravity then, is about equal to rainwater; but in its turbid state, it is much heavier than ordinary riverwater, for a boat will draw three or four inches less in it than inother rivers, with the same lading, and the human body will swim in itwith but very little effort. 

It possesses some medicinal properties. Placed in an open vessel andexposed to the summer's sun, it remains pure for weeks. Eruptions on theskin and ulcerous sores are cured by wading or frequent bathings, andcommonly it produces slight cathartic effects upon strangers upon itsfirst use. 

The width of the Missouri river at St. Charles, is 550 yards. Itsalluvial banks however are insecure, and are not unfrequently washedaway for many yards at its annual floods. The bed of its channel is alsoprecarious, and is elevated or depressed by the deposition or removal ofits sandy foundation. Hence the elevation or depression of the surfaceof this river, affords no criterion of its depth, or of the volume ofwater it discharges at any one period. 

Undulatory motions, like the boiling of a pot, are frequently seen onits surface, caused by the shifting of the sand that forms its bed. 

The volume of water it ordinarily discharges into the Mississippi isvastly disproportionate to its length, or the number and size of itstributaries. I have seen less than six feet depth of water at St. Charles at a low stage, and it was once forded by a soldier, atBellefontaine, four miles above its junction with the Mississippi. 

Evaporation takes up large quantities, but absorption throughout theporous soil of its wide bottoms consumes much more. In all the wells dugin the bottom lands of the Missouri, water is always found at the depthof the surface of the river, and invariably rises or sinks with thefloods and ebbings of the stream. Volumes of sand frequently enter thesewells as the river rises. 

Its periodical floods deserve notice. Ordinarily this river has threeperiods of rising and falling each year. The first rise is caused by thebreaking up of winter on the Gasconade, Osage, Kansau, Chariton, Grand, and other branches of the lower Missouri, and occurs the latter part ofFebruary, or early in March. Its second rise is usually in April, whenthe Platte, Yellow Stone, and other streams pour into it their springfloods. But the flood that more usually attracts attention takes placefrom the 10th to the 25th of June, when the melting snows on theChippewan mountains pour their contents into the Missouri. This flood isscarcely ever less than five, nor more than 20 feet at St. Louis, abovethe ordinary height of the river. On two occasions, however, since thecountry was known to the French, it has arisen to that height in theMississippi as to flow over the American Bottom in Illinois, and drivethe inhabitants of Cahokia and Kaskaskia from their villages to thebluffs. Rain in greater or less quantities usually falls during the riseof the river, and ceases when the waters subside. So uniform is this thecase in Upper Missouri, the region beyond the boundary of the State, that the seasons are divided into wet and dry. 

Pumice stones and other volcanic productions occasionally float down itswaters. 

_Mississippi River. _ The extreme head of the longest branch of theMississippi river, has been found in lake Itaska, or Lac la Biche, byMr. Schoolcraft, who states it to be elevated 1500 feet above theAtlantic ocean, and distant 3, 160 miles from the extreme outlet of theriver at the gulf of Mexico. The outlet of Itaska lake, which isconnected with a string of small lakes, is ten or twelve feet broad, andtwelve or fifteen inches deep. This is in latitude about 48° north. Fromthis it passes Cedar and several smaller lakes, and runs a windingcourse, 700 miles, to the falls of St. Anthony, where its waters areprecipitated over a cataract of 16 or 17 feet perpendicular. It thencontinues a southeastern course to the Missouri, in N. Lat, 38° 38', receiving the St. Croix, Chippewa, Wisconsin, Rock and Illinois rivers, with many smaller streams from the east, and the St. Peter's, Iowa, DesMoines, and Salt rivers, besides a number of smaller ones from the west. The current of the Missouri strikes that of the Mississippi at rightangles, and throws it upon the eastern shore. When at a low stage, thewaters of the two rivers are distinct till they pass St. Louis. 

The principal branch of the Upper Mississippi, is the St. Peter's, whichrises in the great prairies in the northwest, and enters the parentstream ten miles below the falls of St. Anthony. Towards the sources ofthis river the quarries exist from which are made the red stone pipes ofthe Indians. This is sacred ground. Hostile tribes meet here, and partunmolested. 

Rock river drains the waters from the northern part of Illinois andWisconsin, and enters the parent stream at 41° 30' north latitude. Inlatitude 39° comes in the Illinois, signifying the "River of Men;" andeighteen miles below this, it unites with, and is lost in the Missouri. 

Custom has fixed unalterably, the name _Mississippi_, to this unitedbody of waters, that rolls its turbid waves towards the Mexican gulf;though, as has been intimated, it is but a continuation of the Missouri. 

Sixty miles below St. Louis, the Kaskaskia joins it, after a deviouscourse of 400 miles. In 37° north latitude, the Ohio pours in itstribute, called by the early French explorers, "La Belle Rivière, " thebeautiful river. A little below 34°, the White river enters after acourse of more than 1, 000 miles. Thirty miles below that, the Arkansas, bringing its tribute from the confines of Mexico, pours in its waters. Above Natchez, the Yazoo from the east, and eighty miles below, the Redriver from the west, unite their waters with the Mississippi. Red Rivertakes its rise in the Mexican dominions, and runs a course of more than2, 000 miles. 

Hitherto, the waters in the wide regions of the west have beencongregating to one point. The "Father of Waters, " is now upwards of amile in width, and several fathoms deep. During its annual floods, itoverflows its banks below the mouth of the Ohio, and penetrates thenumerous bayous, lakes, and swamps, and especially on its western side. In many places these floods extend thirty or forty miles into theinterior. But after it receives the Red river, it begins to throw offits surplus waters, which flow in separate channels to the gulf, andnever again unite with the parent stream. Several of thesecommunications are held with the ocean at different and distant points. 

_Ohio River. _ The Ohio river is formed by the junction of the Alleghanyand Monongahela, at Pittsburg. The Alleghany river rises not far fromthe head of the western branch of the Susquehannah, in the highlands ofMcKean county, Pennsylvania. It runs north till it penetrates Catarauguscounty, New York, then turns west, then southwest, and finally takes asouthern course to Pittsburg. It receives a branch from the Chatauquelake, Chatauque county, New York. The Monongahela rises near thesources of the Kenhawa, in western Virginia, and runs north till itmeets the Alleghany. 

The general course of the Ohio is southwest. Its current is gentle, andit receives a number of tributaries, which are noticed in the Stateswhere they run. 

The Valley of the Mississippi has been arranged by Mr. Darby, into fourgreat subdivisions. 

1. The _Ohio Valley_, length 750 miles, and mean width 261; containing196, 000 square miles. 

2. _Mississippi Valley_, above Ohio, including the minor valley ofIllinois, but exclusive of Missouri, 650 miles long, and 277 mean width, and containing 180, 000 square miles. 

3. _Lower Valley of the Mississippi_, including White, Arkansas, and Redriver vallies, 1, 000 miles long, and 200 wide, containing 200, 000 squaremiles. 

4. _Missouri proper_, including Osage, Kansau, Platte rivers, &c. 1, 200miles long, and 437 wide, containing 523, 000 square miles. 

"The _Valley of the Ohio_ is better known than any of the others; hasmuch fertile land, and much that is sterile, or unfit for cultivation, on account of its unevenness. It is divided into two unequal portions, by the Ohio river; leaving on the right or northwest side 80, 000, and onthe left or southeast side, 116, 000 square miles. The eastern part ofthis valley is hilly, and rapidly acclivous towards the Appalachianmountains. Indeed its high hills, as you approach these mountains, areof a strongly marked mountainous character. Of course the rivers whichflow into the Ohio--the Monongahela, Kenhawa, Licking, Sandy, Kentucky, Green, Cumberland, and Tennessee--are rapid, and abounding in cataractsand falls, which, towards their sources, greatly impede navigation. Thewestern side of this Valley is, also, hilly for a considerable distancefrom the Ohio, but towards its western limit, it subsides to aremarkably level region. So that whilst the eastern line of this Valleylies along the high table land, on which the Appalachian mountains rest, and where the rivers of the eastern section of this Valley rise, whichis at least 2, 000 miles generally above the ocean level; the westernline has not an elevation of much more than half of that amount on thenorth, and which greatly subsides towards the Kaskaskia. The rivers ofthe western section are Beaver, Muskingum, Hockhocking, Scioto, Miami, and Wabash. Along the Ohio, on each side, are high hills, oftenintersected with deep ravines, and sometimes openings of considerableextent, and well known by the appellation of "Ohio hills. " Towards themouth of the Ohio, these hills almost wholly disappear, and extensivelevel bottoms, covered with heavy forests of oak, sycamore, elm, poplar, and cotton wood, stretch along each side of the river. On the lowersection of the river, the water, at the time of the spring floods, often overflows these bottoms to a great extent. This fine Valleyembraces considerably more than one half of the whole population of theentire Valley of the West. The western parts of Pennsylvania andVirginia, the entire states of Ohio, Indiana, and Kentucky, the largerpart of Tennessee, and a smaller part of Illinois, are in the Valley ofthe Ohio. "

_The Upper Valley of the Mississippi_ possesses a surface far lessdiversified than the Valley of the Ohio. The country where its mostnorthern branches take their rise, is elevated table land, aboundingwith marshes and lakes, that are filled with a graniferous vegetablecalled wild rice. It is a slim, shrivelled grain of a brownish hue, andgathered by the Indians in large quantities for food. There are tractsof arable land covered with elm, linden, pine, hemlock, cherry, maple, birch and other timber common to a northern climate. From the sameplateau flow the numerous branches of Red river, and other streams thatflow into lake Winnipeck, and thence into Hudson's bay. Here, too, arefound some of the head branches of the waters of St. Lawrence, thatenter the Lake of the Woods, and Superior. In the whole country of whichwe are speaking, there is nothing that deserves the name of mountain. Below the falls of St. Anthony the river bluffs are often abrupt, wildand romantic, and at their base and along the streams are thousands ofquartz crystals, carnelians and other precious stones. 

But a short distance in the rear, you enter upon table land of extensiveprairies, with clumps of trees, and groves along the streams. Furtherdown, abrupt cliffs and overhanging precipices are frequently seen atthe termination of the river alluvion. 

The whole country northwest of the Ohio and east of the Mississippi, asfar north as the falls of St. Anthony, exhibits striking marks of adiluvial formation, by a gradual retiring of the waters. From the summitlevel that divides the waters of the lakes from those of theMississippi, through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin, which isscarcely a perceptible ridge, to the south point of Illinois at thejunction of the Ohio and Mississippi, appears to have once been a planewith an inclination equal to 12 or 15 inches per mile. The ravines andvallies appear to have been gradually scooped out by the abrasion of thewaters. 

"The _Lower Mississippi Valley_, has a length of 1, 200 miles, fromnorthwest to southeast, considering the source of the Arkansas, and themouth of the Mississippi river as extreme points; reaching from northlatitude 29° to 42°, and without estimating mountains, ridges, or peaks, differs in relative elevation at least 500 feet. 

"The _Arkansas river_ rises near north latitude 42°, and longitude 32°west from Washington, and falls into the Mississippi at 33° 56', passingover eight degrees of latitude. 

"_Red River_ rises in the mountainous country of Mexico, north of Texas, in north latitude 34°; and west longitude 28° from Washington, and fallsinto the Mississippi in latitude 31°. They are both remarkable riversfor their extent, the number of their branches, the volume of theirwaters, the quantity of alluvion they carry down to the parent stream, and the color of their waters. Impregnated by saline particles, andcolored with ocherous earth, the waters of these two rivers are at oncebrackish and nauseous to the taste, particularly near their mouths; thatof Red river is so much so at Natchitoches at low water that it cannotbe used for culinary purposes. 

"At a short distance below the mouth of the Red river, a large bayou, (as it is called, ) or outlet, breaks from the Mississippi on the west;by which, it is believed, that as large a volume of water as the Redriver brings to the parent river, is drained off, and runs to the gulfof Mexico, fifty miles from the mouth of the Mississippi. The name ofthis bayou is Atchafalaya, or as it is commonly called, _Chaffalio_. Below this bayou, another of large dimensions breaks forth on the sameside, and finally falls into the Atchafalaya. This is the Placquemine. Still lower, at Donaldsonville, ninety miles above New Orleans, on thesame side, the Lafourche bayou breaks out, and pursues a course parallelto the Mississippi, fifty miles west of the mouth of that river. On theeast side, the Ibberville bayou drains off a portion of the waters ofthe Mississippi, into lakes Maurepas, Ponchartrain, Borgnes, and thegulf of Mexico, and thus forms the long and narrow island of Orleans. 

"In the lower Valley of the Mississippi there is a great extent of landof the very richest kind. There is also much that is almost alwaysoverflown with waters, and is a perpetual swamp. There are extensiveprairies in this Valley; and towards the Rocky mountains; on the upperwaters of the Arkansas and Red rivers, there are vast barren steppes orplains of sand, dreary and barren, like the central steppes of Asia. Onthe east of the Mississippi, are extensive regions of the densestforests, which form a striking contrast with the prairies which stretchon the west of that great river. 

"_The Valley of the Missouri_ extends 1200 miles in length, and 700 inwidth, and embraces 253, 000 square miles. The Missouri river rises inthe Chippewan mountains, through eight degrees, or nearly 600 miles. TheYellow Stone is its longest branch. The course of the Missouri, afterleaving the Rocky mountains, is generally southeast, until it uniteswith the Mississippi. The principal branches flow from the southwest. They are the Osage, Kansas, Platte, &c. The three most striking featuresof this Valley are, 1st. The turbid character of its waters. 2d. Thevery unequal volumes of the right and left confluences. 3d. The immensepredominance of the open prairies, over the forests which line therivers. The western part of this Valley rises to an elevation towardsthe Chippewan mountains, equal to ten degrees of temperature. Ascendingfrom the lower verge of this widely extended plain, wood becomes moreand more scarce, until one naked surface spreads on all sides. Even theridges and chains of the Chippewan, partake of these traits ofdesolation. The traveller, who has read the descriptions of centralAsia, by Tooke or Pallas, will feel on the higher branches of theMissouri, a resemblance, at once striking and appalling; and he willacknowledge, if near to the Chippewan mountains in winter, that theutmost intensity of frost over Siberia and Mongolia, has its fullcounterpart in North America, on similar, if not on lower latitudes. There is much fertile land in the Valley of the Missouri, though much ofit must be forever the abode of the buffalo and the elk, the wolf andthe deer. [2]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Why the names Huron, Mandan, Sioux, Osage, and _Ozark_ have beenapplied by Darby and other authors, to the extensive regions on theUpper Mississippi, the Upper Missouri, and the Arkansas rivers, I am notable to solve. _Osage_ is a French corruption of _Wos-sosh-ee_, and_Ozark_ is an awkward, illiterate corruption of Osage. _Sioux_ isanother French corruption, the origin of which is not now easilyascertained. Carver and other travellers, call this nation of IndianaNau-do-wes-sees. Chiefs of this nation have repeatedly disclaimed thename of Sioux, (pronounced Soos. ) They sometimes call themselvesDa-co-tah. 

[2] Darby. 

CHAPTER II. 

GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

(CONTINUED. )

Productions. 

_Minerals. _--But few mines exist in the Lower Valley of the Mississippi. _Louisiana_, being chiefly alluvion, furnishes only two specimens, sulphuret of antimony, and meteoric iron ore. It is supposed that thepine barrens towards Texas, if explored, would add to the number. 

The only minerals in _Mississippi_, are amethyst, of which one crystalhas been found; potter's clay, at the Chickasaw Bluffs, and nearNatchez; sulphuret of lead in small quantities, about Port Gibson; andsulphate of iron. Petrified trunks of trees are found in the bed of theMississippi, opposite Natchez. In Arkansas Territory are variousspecies. Here may be found the native magnet, or magnetic oxide of iron, possessing strong magnetic power. Iron ores are very abundant. Sulphateof copper, sulphuret of zinc, alum, and aluminous slate are found aboutthe cove of Washitau, and the Hot Springs. Buhr stone of a superiorquality exists in the surrounding hills. The hot springs areinteresting on account of the minerals around them, the heat of theirwaters, and as furnishing a retreat to valetudinarians from the sicklyregions of the south. They are situated on the Washitau, a large streamthat empties itself into Red river. 

The _lead mines_ of Missouri have been worked for more than a century. They are distributed through the country from thirty to one hundredmiles southwest from St. Louis, and probably extend through theGasconade country. Immense quantities of iron ore exist in this region. Lead is found in vast quantities in the northern part of Illinois, thesouth part of the Wisconsin Territory, and the country on the oppositeside of the Mississippi. These mines are worked extensively. Nativecopper in large quantities is found in the same region. Large quantitiesof iron ore is found in the mountainous parts of Tennessee and Kentucky, where furnaces and forges have been erected. Also, in the hilly parts ofOhio, particularly at the falls of Licking four miles west ofZanesville, and in Adams and Lawrence counties near the Ohio river. With_iron ore_ the West is profusely supplied. 

_Bituminous coal_ exists in great profusion in various parts of theWestern Valley. The hills around Pittsburg are inexhaustible. It extendsthrough many portions of Ohio and Indiana. Nearly every county inIllinois is supplied with this valuable article. Missouri, Kentucky, and Tennessee have their share. Immense quantities are found in themountains along the Kenhawa, in Western Virginia, and it is now employedin the manufacture of salt. The Cumberland mountains in Tennesseecontain immense deposits. 

_Muriate of Soda_ or common salt, exists in most of the states andterritories of this Valley. Near the sources of the Arkansasincrustations are formed by evaporation during the dry season, in thedepressed portions of the immense prairies of that region. Thecelebrated salt rock is on the red fork of the Canadian, a branch of theArkansas river. Jefferson lake has its water strongly impregnated withsalt, and is of a bright red color. Beds of rock salt are in themountains of this region. Several counties of Missouri have abundantsalt springs. Considerable quantities of salt are manufactured inJackson, Gallatin and Vermillion counties, Illinois. Saline springs, and"licks" as they are called, abound through Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Ohio, Western Pennsylvania, and Western Virginia. Salt is manufacturedin great abundance at the Kenhawa salines, 16 miles above Charlestown, Va. , and brought down the Kenhawa river and carried to all the WesternStates. Much salt is made also on the Kiskiminitas, a branch of theAlleghany river, at the Yellow creek above Steubenville, and in theScioto country in Ohio. The water is frequently obtained by boringthrough rock of different strata, several hundred feet deep. 

Copper, antimony, manganese, and several other minerals are found indifferent parts of the West, but are not yet worked. _Nitrate of potash_is found in great abundance in the caverns of Kentucky and Tennessee, also in Missouri, from which large quantities of Saltpetre aremanufactured. _Sulphate of Magnesia_ is found in Kentucky, Indiana, andperhaps other states. Sulphur and other mineral springs are very commonin the western states. 

_Vegetable Productions. _--_Trees, &c. _ Almost every species of timberand shrub common to the Atlantic states is found in some part of theWestern Valley. The cotton wood and sycamore are found along all therivers below the 41° of N. Latitude. The cypress begins near the mouthof the Ohio and spreads through the alluvion portions of the LowerValley. The magnolia, with its large, beautiful flower, grows inLouisiana, and the long leaf pine flourishes in the uplands of the sameregion. The sugar maple abounds in the northern and middle portions. Thechestnut is found in the eastern portion of the Valley as far asIndiana, but not a tree is known to exist in a natural state west of theWabash river. Yellow or pitch pine, grows in several counties ofMissouri, especially on the Gasconade, from whence large quantities oflumber are brought to St. Louis. White pine from the Alleghany river isannually sent to all the towns on the Ohio, and further down. Considerable quantities of white pine grow on the upper Mississippi, along the western shore of Michigan, about Green bay, and along theshores of lake Superior. The yellow poplar, (Liriodendron tulipifera) isa majestic tree, valuable for light boards, and may be found in someparts of most of the western states. The beech tree is frequently foundin company. The live oak, so valuable in ship building, is found southof the 31°, and along the Louisiana coast. The orange, fig, olive, pineapple, &c. Find a genial climate about New Orleans. High in the north wehave the birch, hemlock, fir, and other trees peculiar to a cold region. Amongst our fruit bearing trees we may enumerate the walnut, hickory orshag bark, persimmon, pecan, mulberry, crab apple, pawpaw, wild plum, and wild cherry. The vine grows everywhere. Of the various species ofoak, elm, ash, linden, hackberry, &c. It is unnecessary to speak. Whereforests abound, the trees are tall and majestic. In the prairie country, the timber is usually found on the streams, or in detached groves. 

In the early settlement of Kentucky there were found, south of Greenriver, large tracts, with stunted scattering trees intermixed with hazeland brushwood. From this appearance it was inferred that the soil was ofinferior quality, and these tracts were denominated "barrens. "Subsequently, it was found that this land was of prime quality. Theterm "barrens" is now applied extensively in the West to the samedescription of country. It distinguishes an intermediate grade fromforest and prairie. A common error has prevailed abroad that our prairieland is wet. _Prairie_ is a French word signifying _meadow_, and isapplied to any description of surface, that is destitute of timber andbrushwood, and clothed with grass. Wet, dry, level, and undulating, areterms of description merely, and apply to prairies in the same sense asthey do to forests. The prairies in summer are clothed with grass, herbage and flowers, exhibit a delightful prospect, and furnish mostabundant and luxuriant pasturage for stock. Much of the forest land inthe Western Valley produces a fine range for domestic animals and swine. Thousands are raised, and the emigrant grows wealthy, from the bountiesof nature, with but little labor. 

Of _animals_, _birds_ and _reptiles_, little need be said. The buffalowas in Illinois the beginning of the present century. They are not foundnow within three hundred miles of Missouri and Arkansas, and they arefast receding. Deer are found still in all frontier settlements. Wolves, foxes, wild cats, raccoons, opossums, and squirrels are plenty. Thebrown bear is still hunted in some parts of the western states. Col. Crockett was a famous bear hunter in Western Tennessee, The white bear, mountain sheep, antelope and beaver, are found in the defiles of theRocky mountains. The elk is still found by the hunter contiguous tonewly formed settlements. All the domestic animals of the United Statesflourish here. 

Nearly all the feathered tribe of the Atlantic slope are to be found inthe Valley. Pelicans, wild geese, swans, cranes, ducks, paroquets, wildturkeys, prairie hens, &c. Are found in different states, especially onthe Mississippi. 

_Reptiles. _ The rattlesnake, copperhead snake, moccasin snake, bullsnake, and the various snakes usually found in the Atlantic states arehere. Of the venomous kinds, multitudes are destroyed by the deer andswine. Chameleons and scorpions exist in the Lower Valley, and lizardseverywhere. The alligator, an unwieldy and bulky animal, is found in therivers and lakes south of 34° north latitude. He sometimes destroyscalves and pigs, and very rarely, even young children. 

_History. _--The honor of the discovery of this country is disputed bythe Spanish, English, and French. It is probable that Sebastian Cabotsailed along the shores of what was afterwards called Florida, but a fewyears after Columbus discovered America. Spanish authors claim that JuanPonce de Leon discovered and named Florida, in 1512. Narvaez, anotherSpanish commander, having obtained a grant of Florida in 1528, landedfour or five hundred men, but was lost by shipwreck near the mouth ofthe Mississippi. Ferdinand de Soto was probably the first white man whosaw the Mississippi river. He is said to have marched 1000 men fromFlorida, through the Chickasaw country, to the Mississippi, near themouth of Red river, where he took sick and died. His men returned. Somewriters suppose De Soto travelled as far north as Kentucky, or the Ohioriver. This is not probable. 

The French were the first to explore and settle the West, and they heldjurisdiction over the country of Illinois for 80 years, when it fellinto the hands of the British upon the conquest of Canada. 

In 1564, Florida was settled by a colony of Huguenots, under AdmiralColigny, who were afterwards massacred by the Spaniards, because theywere Protestant _heretics_. 

In 1608, Admiral Champlaine founded Quebec, from which Frenchsettlements spread through the Canadas. 

About 1670, the notion prevailed amongst the French that visited Canada, that a western passage to the Pacific ocean existed. They learned fromthe Indians that far in the west there was a great river; but of itscourse or termination they could learn nothing. They supposed that thisriver communicated with the western ocean. 

To investigate this question, P. Marquette, a Jesuit, and Joliet, wereappointed by M. Talon, the Intendant of New France. Marquette was wellacquainted with the Canadas, and had great influence with the Indiantribes. They conducted an expedition through the lakes, up Green bay andFox river, to the Portage, where it approaches the Wisconsin, to whichthey passed, and descended that river to the Mississippi, which theyreached the 17th of June, 1673. They found a river much larger anddeeper than it had been represented by the Indians. Their regularjournal was lost on their return to Canada; but from the account, afterwards given by Joliet, they found the natives friendly, and that atradition existed amongst them of the residence of a "Mon-e-to, " orspirit, near the mouth of the Missouri, which they could not pass. Theyturned their course up the Illinois, and were highly delighted with theplacid stream, and the woodlands and prairies through which it flowed. They were hospitably received and kindly treated by the Illinois, anumerous nation of Indians who were destitute of the cruelty of savages. The word "Illinois, " or "Illini, " is said by Hennepin, to signify a"_full grown man_. " This nation appears to have originally possessed theIllinois country, and also a portion west of the Mississippi. The nationwas made up of eight tribes:--the Miamies, Michigamies, Mascotins, Kaskaskias, Kahokias, Peorias, Piankeshaws, and Tau-mar-waus. 

Marquette continued among these Indians with a view to christianizethem; but Joliet returned to Canada and reported the discoveries he hadmade. 

Several years elapsed before any one attempted to follow up thediscoveries of Marquette and Joliet. M. De La Salle, a native ofNormandy, but who had resided many years in Canada, was the first toextend these early discoveries. He was a man of intelligence, talents, enterprise, and perseverance. After obtaining the sanction of the kingof France, he set out on his projected expedition, in 1678, fromFrontenac, with Chevalier Tonti, his lieutenant, and Father Hennepin, aJesuit missionary, and thirty or forty men. 

He spent about one year in exploring the country bordering on the lakes, and in selecting positions for forts and trading posts, to secure theIndian trade to the French. After he had built a fort at Niagara, andfitted out a small vessel, he sailed through the lakes to Green bay, then called the "Bay of Puants. " From thence he proceeded with his menin canoes towards the south end of lake Michigan, and arrived at themouth of the "river of the Miamis" in November, 1679. This is thought tobe the Milwaukee in Wisconsin Territory. Here he built a fort, lefteight or ten men, and passed with the rest of his company across thecountry to the waters of the Illinois river, and descended that river aconsiderable distance, when he was stopped for want of supplies. Thiswas occasioned by the loss of a boat which had been sent from his poston Green bay. He was now compelled by necessity to build a fort, which, on account of the anxiety of mind he experienced, was called_Creve-coeur_, or broken heart. 

The position of this fort cannot now be ascertained; but from someappearances, it is thought to have been near Spring bay, in thenortheast part of Tazewell county. 

At this period the Illinois were engaged in a war with the Iroquois, anumerous, warlike, and cruel nation, with whom La Salle had traded, while on the borders of Canada. The former, according to Indian notionsof friendship, expected assistance from the French; but the interestsand safety of La Salle depended upon terminating this warfare, and tothis object he directed his strenuous efforts. The suspicious Illinoisconstrued this into treachery, which was strengthened by the maliciousand perfidious conduct of some of his own men, and pronounced upon himthe sentence of death. Immediately he formed and executed the bold andhazardous project of going alone and unarmed to the camp of theIllinois, and vindicating his conduct. He declared his innocence of thecharges, and demanded the author. He urged that the war should beterminated, and that the hostile nations should live in peace. 

The coolness, bravery, and eloquence of La Salle filled the Indians withastonishment, and entirely changed their purposes. The calumet wassmoked, presents mutually exchanged, and a treaty of amity concluded. 

The original project of discovery was now pursued. Father Hennepinstarted on the 28th of February, 1680, and having passed down theIllinois, ascended the Mississippi to the falls of St. Anthony. Here hewas taken prisoner, robbed, and carried to the Indian villages, fromwhich he made his escape, returned to Canada by the way of theWisconsin, and from thence to France, where he published an account ofhis travels. 

La Salle visited Canada to obtain supplies, returned to Creve-coeur, and shortly after descended the Illinois, and then the Mississippi, where he built one or two forts on its banks, and took possession of thecountry in the name of the king of France, and in honor of him called it_Louisiana_. 

One of these forts is thought to have been built on the west side of theriver, between St. Louis and Carondalet. 

After descending the Mississippi to its mouth, he returned to theIllinois, and on his way back left some of his companions to occupy thecountry. This is supposed to have been the commencement of the villagesof Kaskaskia and Cahokia, in 1683. La Salle went to France, fitted outan expedition to form a colony at the mouth of the Mississippi, sailedto the gulf of Mexico, but not being able to find the mouths of thatriver, he commenced an overland journey to his fort on the Illinois. Onthis journey he was basely assassinated by two of his own men. [3]

After the death of La Salle, no attempts to discover the mouth of theMississippi were made till about 1699, but the settlements in theIllinois country were gradually increased by emigrants from Canada. 

In 1712, the king of France, by letters patent, gave the whole countryof Louisiana to M. Crosat, with the commerce of the country, with theprofits of all the mines, reserving for his own use one fifth of thegold and silver. After expending large sums in digging and exploring forthe precious metals without success, Crosat gave up his privilege to theking, in 1717. Soon after, the colony was granted to the Mississippicompany, projected by Mr. Law, which took possession of Louisiana, andappointed M. Bienville governor. In 1719, La Harpe commanded a fort withFrench troops, not far from the mouth of the Missouri river. 

Shortly after, several forts were built within the present limits ofIllinois, of which fort Chartres was the most considerable. By thesemeans a chain of communication was formed from Canada to the mouth ofthe Mississippi. 

In 1699, M. Ibberville arrived in the gulf of Mexico with two frigates, and in March ascended the river in a felucca one hundred leagues, andreturned by the bayou or outlet that bears his name, through lakePonchartrain to the gulf. He planted his colony at Biloxi, a healthy butsterile spot between the Mobile and Mississippi rivers, and built afortification. During several succeeding years much exploring was done, and considerable trade carried on with the Indians for peltries, yetthese expeditions were a source of much expense to France. 

In January, 1702, the colony at Mobile was planted; several othersettlements were soon after formed. The Catholics also commenced severalmissions amongst the Indians. Difficulties frequently occurred withtheir Spanish neighbors in Florida and Mexico. 

M. Ibberville died in 1706, and M. Bienville succeeded him in thegovernment of Louisiana for many years. The city of New Orleans wasfounded, during his administration, in 1719. It is situated on the eastbank of the Mississippi, one hundred and five miles from its mouth. From1723 to 1730, the French had exterminating wars with the Natchez, apowerful nation of Indians. They had killed 700 French in 1723, andabout 1730 the French exterminated the nation. Various wars took placesubsequently with the Spanish and English. But over most of the Indiansalong the Mississippi, these French colonists gained extraordinaryinfluence. --During this period emigrants continued to arrive fromFrance, so that the colonists rapidly increased in numbers. 

The Mississippi land scheme, or "bubble" as it was called, originatedwith the celebrated John Law in 1717, which soon burst and spread ruinthroughout the monied interests of France. The amount of stock created, was said to equal 310, 000, 000 of dollars. The whole proved an entirefailure, but it served to increase greatly the population of Louisiana, so that from 1736, the colonies in the Lower Valley prospered. 

In 1754, the war commenced between France and England relative to theboundaries of the Canadas. At that period France claimed all thecountries west of the Alleghany mountains, while England on the otherhand had granted to Virginia, Connecticut and other colonies, charterswhich extended across the continent to the "South Sea, " as the Pacificocean was then called. A grant also was made by Virginia, and the crownof Great Britain, of 600, 000 acres to a company called "The OhioCompany. " The governor of New France, as Canada and Louisiana was thencalled, protested, erected forts on lake Erie, and at the present siteof Pittsburg, and enlisted the Indians against the English andAmericans. Pittsburg was then called Fort du Quesne. Then followedBraddock's war, as this contest is called in the west, --the mission ofMajor (afterward General) Washington, --the defeat of Braddock; andfinally by the memorable victory of Wolfe at Quebec, and the lesser onesat Niagara and Ticonderoga, and by victories of the English fleet on theocean, the French were humbled, and at the treaty of Paris, in 1763, surrendered all their claims to the country east of the Mississippi. Towards the close of the war, however, France, by a secret treaty, cededall the country west of the Mississippi, and including New Orleans, toSpain, who held possession till 1803, when it was delivered to theFrench government under Napoleon, and by him ceded to the United Statesfor 15, 000, 000 of dollars. 

The English held possession of the military posts, and exercisedjurisdiction over the country of Illinois, and the adjacent regions, till 1778, during the revolutionary war; when by a secret expedition, without direct legislative sanction, but by a most enterprising, skilful, and hazardous military manoeuvre, the posts of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Fort Chartres and Vincennes were captured by Gen. GEORGEROGERS CLARK, with a small force of volunteer Americans, and thatportion of the Valley fell under the jurisdiction of Virginia. 

The legislature of Virginia sanctioned the expedition of Clark, whichthe Executive, Patrick Henry and his council, with Thomas Jefferson, George Wythe, and George Mason, by written instructions, had agreedshould be done, and a county called "Illinois" was organized the sameyear. 

In 1784, Virginia, in conjunction with other states, ceded all claims tothe Great West, to the United States, reserving certain tracts for thepayment of revolutionary claims. This cession laid the foundation forfive new states northwest of Ohio, when each district should have 60, 000inhabitants, and even a less number, by consent of Congress. Tworestrictions were peremptorily enjoined, --that each state should adopt aconstitution with a republican form of government, and that slavery orinvoluntary servitude, should be forever prohibited. 

It is unnecessary here to enter into details of the settlement of eachparticular state, --the incessant attacks from the Indians, --the borderwars that ensued, --the adventures of Boone and his associates insettling Kentucky, --the unfortunate campaigns of Harmar and St. Clair, --the victorious one of Wayne, --or the reminiscences and events ofthe war of 1812, and its termination in 1815. Some historical notices ofeach state may be found in their proper place. 

_Prospective increase of Population. _ For a long period, in the statesof the west, the increase of population was slow, and retarded byseveral causes. Difficulties of a formidable character had to besurmounted. The footsteps of the American emigrants were everywheredrenched in blood, shed by infuriated savage foes, and before 1790 morethan 5, 000 persons had been murdered, or taken captive and lost to thesettlements. "It has been estimated, that in the short space of sevenyears, from 1783 to 1790, more than fifteen hundred of the inhabitantsof Kentucky were either massacred or carried away into a captivity worsethan death, by the Indians; and an equal number from WesternPennsylvania and Virginia, in the same period, met with a similar fate. The settlers on the frontiers were almost constantly, for a period offorty years, harassed either by actual attacks of the savages, or thedaily expectation of them. The tomahawk and the scalping knife, were theobjects of their fears by day and by night. "[4]

Hence, in suggesting reasons showing why the population of this Valleymust increase in future in a far greater ratio than in the past, it willappear:

1. That the most perfect security is now enjoyed by all emigrants, bothfor their families and property. 

By the wise and beneficent arrangement of government, the Indian tribeshave nearly all removed to the Territory specially allotted for theiroccupancy west of Missouri and Arkansas. The grand error committed inpast times in relation to the Indians, and which has been the source ofincalculable evils to both races, has been the want of definite, fixedand permanent lines of demarcation betwixt them. It will be seen underthe proper head, that a system of measures is now in operation that willnot only preserve peace between the frontier settlements and the Indiantribes, but that to a great extent, they are becoming initiated into thehabits of civilized life. There is now no more danger to the populationof these states and territories from _Indian_ depredations, than to thepeople of the Atlantic states. 

2. The increased facilities of emigration, and the advantage of sure andcertain markets for every species of production, furnishes a secondreason why population will increase in the western Valley beyond anyformer period. 

Before the purchase of Louisiana, the western people had no outlet fortheir produce, and the chief mode of obtaining every description ofmerchandize, --even salt and iron, --was by the slow and expensive methodof transportation by wagons and pack-horses, across almost impassiblemountains and extremely difficult roads. Now, every convenience andluxury of life is carried with comparative ease, to every town andsettlement throughout the Valley, and every species of produce is sentoff in various directions, to every port on earth if necessary. Andthese facilities are multiplying and increasing every hour: Turnpikeroads, rail roads, canals, and steamboat navigation have alreadyprovided such facilities for removing from the Atlantic to the WesternStates, that no family desirous of removing, need hesitate or make asingle inquiry as to facilities of getting to this country. 

3. The facilities of trade and intercourse between the differentsections of the Valley, are now superior to most countries on earth, andare increasing every year. And no country on earth admits of suchindefinite improvement either by land or water. More than twentythousand miles of actual steamboat navigation, with several hundredmiles of canal navigation, constructed or commenced, attest the truth ofthis statement. The first steamboat on the western waters was built atPittsburg in 1811, and not more than seven or eight had been built, whenthe writer emigrated to this country in 1817. At this period, (January1836, ) there are several hundred boats on the western waters, and someof the largest size. In 1817, about twenty barges, averaging about onehundred tons each, performed the whole commercial business oftransporting merchandize from New Orleans to Louisville and Cincinnati. Each performed one trip, going and returning within the year. About 150keel boats performed the business on the Upper Ohio to Pittsburg. Theseaveraged about 30 tons each, and were employed one month in making thevoyage from Louisville to Pittsburg. Three days, or three days and ahalf is now the usual time occupied by the steam packets between the twoplaces, and from seven to twelve days between Louisville and NewOrleans. Four days is the time of passing from the former place to St. Louis. 

4. A fourth reason why population will increase in future in a greaterratio than the past is derived from the increase of population in theAtlantic states, and the greater desire for removal to the west. At theclose of the revolutionary war the population of the whole Union butlittle exceeded two millions. Vast tracts of wilderness then existed inthe old states, which have since been subdued, and from whence thousandsof enterprising citizens are pressing their way into the Great Valley. Two thirds of the territory of New York, large portions of NewHampshire, Vermont and Maine, an extensive district in middlePennsylvania, to say nothing of wide regions in the southern states, were comprised in this wilderness. These extensive regions have becomepopulous, and are sending out vast numbers of emigrants to the west. Europe is in commotion, and the emigration to North America, in 1832, reached 200, 000, a due proportion of which settle in the Western Valley. 

5. A fifth reason will be founded upon the immense amount of land forthe occupancy of an indefinite number of emigrants, much of which willnot cost the purchaser over _one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre_. Without giving the extravagant estimates that have been made by manywriters of the wide and uninhabitable desert between the IndianTerritory west of Missouri and Arkansas, and the Rocky mountains, norswampy and frozen regions at the heads of the Mississippi river, andaround lake Superior, I will merely exhibit the amount of landsadmitting of _immediate_ settlement and cultivation, within theboundaries of the new States and organized Territories. 

According to the report of the Secretary of the Treasury up to the 30thday of September, 1831, the estimated amount of unsold lands, on whichthe foreign and Indian titles had been extinguished, within the limitsof the new States and Territories, was 227, 293, 884 acres;--and that theIndian title remained on 113, 577, 869 acres within the same limits. [5]The Commissioner of the General Land Office in December, 1827, estimatedthe public domain, beyond the boundaries of the new States andTerritories, to be 750 millions of acres. Much of this however, isuninhabitable. 

According to the Report of 1831, there had been granted to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Alabama for internal Improvements, 2, 187, 665acres;--for Colleges, Academies and Universities in the new States andTerritories, 508, 009;--for education, being the thirty-sixth part of thepublic lands appropriated to common schools, 7, 952, 538 acres;--and forseats of government to some of the new States and Territories, 21, 589acres. Up to January, 1826, there had been sold, from the commencementof the land system, only 19, 239, 412 acres. Since that period to theclose of 1835, there have been sold, about 33 millions of acres, makingin all sold, a little more than 52 millions. This statement includesAlabama and Florida, which we have not considered as strictly within theValley. After a hasty and somewhat imperfect estimate of the publiclands that are now in market, or will be brought into market within afew years, within the limits of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Michigan, and the Territory ofWisconsin, the amount may be put at 130 millions of acres. This amountadmits of immediate settlement and cultivation, and much of it may beput under cultivation without the immense labor of clearing and subduingforest lands. 

The comparison between the amount of sales of public lands within thelast ten years, and the preceding forty years, shows that emigration tothe West is increasing at a ratio beyond what is ordinarily supposed, and that the next ten years will find a majority of the population ofthe United States within this Great Valley. 

 Sales of land from 1786 to 1826, (40 years) 19, 239, 412 acres. " " from 1826 to 1835, (10 years) 33, 000, 000 acres. 

Three millions of families may find farms in the West. 

The extensive prairie lands of Illinois and Missouri present no obstacleto the settlement of the country. Already, prairies for many miles inextent have been turned into farms. 

6. A sixth reason why the increase of the future population of theValley will greatly exceed the past, is derived from the increasedconfidence of the community in the general health of the country. Themost unreasonable notions have prevailed abroad relative to the healthof the western states. All new settlements are more or less unfavorableto health, which, when cultivated and settled become healthy. As aseparate chapter will be devoted to this subject, I only advert to thefact now of the increased confidence of the people in the AtlanticStates, in the salubrity of our western climate, which already hastended to increase emigration; but which, from facts becoming moregenerally known, will operate to a much greater extent in future. 

7. I will only add that there is already a great amount of intelligence, and of excellent society in all the settled portions of the WesternValley. 

"The idea is no longer entertained by Eastern people, that going to theWest, or the 'Backwoods, ' as it was formerly called, is to remove to aheathen land, to a land of ignorance and barbarism, where the people donothing but rob, and fight, and gouge! Some parts of the West haveobtained this character, but most undeservedly, from the _Fearons_, the[Basil] _Halls_, the _Trollopes_, and other ignorant and insolenttravellers from England, who, because they were not allowed to insultand outrage as they pleased, with Parthian spirit, hurled back upon ustheir poisoned javelins and darts as they left us. There is indeed muchdestitution of moral influence and means of instruction in many, verymany, neighborhoods of the West. But there is in all the principal townsa state of society, with which the most refined, I was going to say themost fastidious, of the eastern cities need not be ashamed tomingle. "--_Baird. _

The eastern emigrant will find, that wholesome legislation, and much ofthe influence of religion are enjoyed in the Valley of the Mississippi, extending to him all he can ask in the enjoyment of his rights, and theprotection of his property. 

Common School systems have been commenced in some of the states, --othersare following their example, and the subject of general education isreceiving increasing attention every year. Colleges and other literaryinstitutions are planted, and religious institutions and means ofreligious instruction are rapidly increasing. Noble and successfulefforts are making by the Bible, Missionary, Tract, Sabbath School, Temperance, and other Societies in the West. Great and rapid changes aretaking place, if not to the extent we desire, yet corresponding in adegree with the gigantic march of emigration and population. Many otherreasons might be urged to show that its prospective increase ofpopulation will vastly exceed the ratio of its retrospective increase, but these are sufficient. 

FOOTNOTES:

[3] La Salle appears to have discovered the Bay of St. Bernard, andformed a settlement on the western side of the Colorado, in 1685. --_SeeJ. Q. Adams's Correspondence with Don Onis. Pub. Doc. First session 15thCongress, 1818. _

[4] Baird. 

[5] See Mr. Clay's Report on the Public Lands, April 26, 1832, U. S. Papers. 

CHAPTER III. 

CLIMATE. 

Comparative view of the Climate with the Atlantic States. Diseases. --Means of preserving health. 

_Climate, &c. _ In a country of such vast extent, through 15° oflatitude, the climate must necessarily be various. Louisiana, Mississippi and the lower half of Arkansas, lie between the latitudes of30° and 35°, and correspond with Georgia and South Carolina. Theirdifference of climate is not material. The northern half of Arkansas, Tennessee and Kentucky, lie west from North Carolina and the southernportion of Virginia. The climate varies from those states only as theyare less elevated than the mountainous parts of Virginia and Carolina. Hence, the emigrant from the southern Atlantic states, unless he comesfrom a mountainous region, will experience no great change of climate, by emigrating to the Lower Mississippi Valley. Missouri, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, lie parallel with the northern half of Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and so much of New Yorkand New England as lies south of the 42° of north latitude. But severalcircumstances combine to produce variations in the climate. 

1. Much of those Atlantic states are hilly, and in many partsmountainous, some of which are 2 and 3000 feet above the level of theocean. The parallel western states have no mountains, and are notproportionably hilly. 

2. The Atlantic states border on the ocean on the east, and feel theinfluence of the cold, damp winds from the northeast and east. Theirrains are more copious and their snows deeper. The northern portions ofthe West, equally with New York and Vermont, are affected with theinfluence of the lakes, though not to the same extent. 

5. "The courses of rivers, by changing in some degree the direction ofthe winds, exert an influence on the climate. In the Atlantic states, from New England to North Carolina, the rivers run more or less to thesoutheast, and increase the winds which blow from the northwest, whilethe great bed of the Mississippi exerts an equal influence in augmentingthe number and steadiness of the winds which blow over it from thesouthwest; and there is another cause of difference in climate, chieflyperceptible, first, in the temperature, which, if no counteracting causeexisted, they would raise in the west considerably above that ofcorresponding latitudes in the east; and, secondly, in the moisture ofthe two regions, which is generally greater west than east of themountains, when the southwest wind prevails; as, much of the water withwhich it comes charged from the Gulf of Mexico, is deposited before itreaches the country east of the Alleghanies. "--_Dr. Drake. _

It is an error that our climate is more variable, or the summersmaterially hotter, than in a correspondent latitude in the Atlanticstates. "The New Englander and New Yorker north of the mountains of WestPoint, should bear in mind that his migration is not to the _West_ but_South West_; and as necessarily brings him into a warmer climate, aswhen he seeks the shores of the Delaware, Potomac, or James' River. "

The settlers from Virginia to Kentucky, or those from Maryland andPennsylvania to Ohio, or further west, have never complained of hottersummers than they had found in the land from whence they came. 

To institute a comparative estimate of temperature between the east andthe west, we must observe: first, the thermometer; and, secondly, theflowering of trees, the putting forth of vegetation, and the ripening offruits and grain in _correspondent latitudes_. This has not usually beendone. Philadelphia and Cincinnati approach nearer to the same parallel, than any other places where such observations have been made. Cincinnati, however, is about 50' south of Philadelphia. The followingremarks are from Dr. Daniel Drake of Cincinnati, to whose pen the westis much indebted. 

"From a series of daily observations in Cincinnati or its vicinity, foreight consecutive years, the mean annual temperature has beenascertained to be 54 degrees and a quarter. Dr. Rush states the meantemperature of Philadelphia at 52 degrees and a half; Dr. Coxe, from sixyears' observations, at 54° and a sixth; and Mr. Legaux, from seventeenyears' observations, at Spring Mill, a few miles out of the city, at 53°and a third; the mean term of which results, 53° and a third, is but thefraction of a degree lower than the mean heat of Cincinnati, andactually less than should be afforded by the difference of latitude. 

"A reference to the temperatures of summer and winter, will give nearlythe same results. From nine years' observations, (three at Spring Mill, by Mr. Legaux, and six in Philadelphia, by Dr. Coxe, ) the mean summerheat of that part of Pennsylvania, appears to be 76 degrees andsix-tenths. The mean summer heat at Cincinnati, for an equal number ofyears, was 74 degrees and four-tenths. The average number of days inwhich the thermometer rose to 90 degrees or upwards, during the sameperiod, was fourteen each summer; and the greatest elevation observedwas 98 degrees: all of which would bear an almost exact comparison withsimilar observations in Pennsylvania. Mr. Legaux states the most intensecold, at Spring Mill, from 1787 to 1806, to have been 17 andfive-tenths degrees below cipher, --while within the same period it was18° at Cincinnati. The average of extreme cold for several years, asobserved by Mr. Legaux, was one and eight-tenths of a degree belowcipher:--the same average at Cincinnati, was two degrees below. From allwhich we may conclude, that the banks of the Delaware and Ohio, in thesame latitudes, have nearly the same temperature. "

The state of Illinois, extending as it does through five and a halfdegrees of latitude, has considerable variation in its climate. It hasno mountains, and though undulating, it cannot be called hilly. Itsextensive prairies, and level surface, give greater scope to the winds, especially in winter. In the southern part of the State, during thethree winter months, snow frequently falls, but seldom lies long. In thenorthern part, the winters are as cold, but not so much snow falls, asin the same latitudes in the Atlantic States. 

The Mississippi at St. Louis is frequently frozen over, and is crossedon the ice, and occasionally for several weeks. The hot season islonger, though not more intense, than occasionally for a day or two inNew England. 

During the years 1817-18-19, the Rev. Mr. Giddings, at St. Louis, made aseries of observations upon Fahrenheit's thermometer. 

 Deg. Hund. Mean temperature for 1817 55 52 Do. Do. From the beginning of May, 1818, to the end of April, 1819 56 98 Mean temperature for 1820 56 18

The mean of these results is about fifty-six degrees and a quarter. 

The mean temperature of each month during the above years, is asfollows:

 Deg. Hund. January 30 62 February 38 65 March 43 13 April 58 47 May 62 66 June 74 47 July 78 66 August 72 88 September 70 10 October 59 00 November 53 13 December 34 33

The mean temperature of the different seasons is as follows:

Winter, 34. 53--Spring, 54. 74--Summer, 74. 34--Autumn, 60. 77. 

The greatest extremes of heat and cold during my residence of eighteenyears, in the vicinity of St. Louis, is as follows:

Greatest heat in July 1820, and July 1833, 100 degrees. Greatest coldJanuary 3d, 1834, 18 degrees below zero, --February 8th, 1835, 22degrees below zero. 

The foregoing facts will doubtless apply to about one half of Illinois. This climate also is subject to sudden changes from heat to cold; fromwet to dry, especially from November to May. The heat of the summerbelow the 40° of latitude is more enervating, and the system becomesmore easily debilitated than in the bracing atmosphere of a morenortherly region. 

At Marietta, Ohio, in lat. 39° 25' N. And at the junction of theMuskingum river with the Ohio, the mean temperature for 1834, was 52degrees, four-tenths; highest in August, 95 degrees, --lowest, January, at zero. Fair days 225, --cloudy days 110. 

At Nashville, Tenn. 1834, the mean temperature was 59 degrees andseventy-six-hundredths; maximum 97, minimum 4 above zero. The summertemperature of this place never reaches 100°. On January 26th, 1832, 18degrees below zero. February 8th, 1835, 10° below zero. 

The putting forth of vegetation in the spring furnishes some evidence ofthe character of the climate of any country, though by no means entirelyaccurate. Other causes combine to advance or retard vegetation. A wet ordry season, or a few days of heat or cold at a particular crisis, willproduce material changes. 

The following table is constructed from memoranda made at the variousdates given, near the latitude of St. Louis, which is computed at 38°30'. The observations of 1819 were made at St. Charles and vicinity, inthe state of Missouri. Those of 1820, in St. Louis county, 17 miles N. W. From the city of St. Louis. The remainder at Rock Spring, Illinois, 18 miles east from St. Louis. It will be perceived, the years are notconsecutive. In 1826, the writer was absent to the eastern states, andfor 1828, his notes were too imperfect to answer the purpose. 

In the columns showing the times of the first snows, and the first andlast frosts in the season, a little explanation may be necessary. A"light" snow means merely enough to whiten the earth, and which usuallydisappears in a few hours. 

Many of the frosts recorded "light" were not severe enough to killordinary vegetation. 

 |Peach & |Strawberries|Blackberries|Apple |Apple | |Red bud |in |in |leaves |trees in | Year. |in blossom|blossom. |blossom. |begin to |blossom. | | | | |put forth| | | | | | | | =====+==========+============+============+=========+=========+ | | | | | | 1819 |April 4. |Not noted. |May 19. |April 15. |April 20. | | | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ |April 14. | |May 10. | | | 1820 |No peach |April 2. |fall off |Mar. 25 |April 15. | |B. | |17. | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ |April 26. | | | | | 1821 |No peach |April 30. |May 21. |April 24. |May 3. | |B. | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | 1822 |April 5. |April 25. |May 10. |April 18. |April 22. | | | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | 1823 |April 19. |April 26. |May 20. |April 15. |April 28. | | | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | 1824 |April 20. |April 28. |May 18. |April 20. |April 29. | | | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | |April 3. | | | | 1825 |Mar. 25. |Ripe |May 8. |Mar. 30. |April 5. | | |May 17. | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | 1827 |April 4. |April 10. |May 15. |April 4. |April 13. | | | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | 1829 |April 20. |April 24. |May 20. |April 20. |April 26. | | | | | | | -----+----------+------------+------------+---------+---------+ | | | | | | 1830 |April 1. |April 5. |May 9. |April 1. |April 9. | | | | | | |

continued

 |Grass |Oaks and |First |Last |First |green in |other forest|snow on |frost in |frost in Year. |prairies. |trees |approach |Spring. |Autumn. | |put forth |of winter. | | | |leaves. | | | =====+=========+============+============+============+========== | | | | | 1819 |April 18. |Half size |Oct. 8. Few |May 18, |Sept. 23. | |May 19. |flakes. |very light. | -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | |April 22. |Oct. 24. Few|June 1, |Sept. 20. 1820 |April 10. |full size |flakes. Nov. |very light. |Oct. 8, | |May 7. |11 3 inches. | |ice. -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | |Ap. 26 to |Nov. 8. |April 18, | 1821 |April 26. |May 3. F. |2-½ in. |severe. |Oct. 8 | |grown 22 | |May 9, light| -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | |April 29. |Nov. 16, |April 16, | 1822 |April 10. |full size |light. |severe, ice. |Oct. 13. | |May 14. | | | -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | | | | | 1823 |April 10. |April 23. |Nov. 1, |April 24. |Sp. 21-2. | | |light. | |Ice 23. -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | | | | |Oct. 21. 1824 |April 14. |April 30. |Nov. 7. |May 5. |hard | | | | |freeze. -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | | |Dec. 11, |Feb. 22. |Oct. 2-3. 1825 |Mar. 16. |April 3. |3 inches. |Next. |27th, ice. | | | |Ap. 20, ice. | -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | |April 10. |Nov. 25, |May 7, |Sept. 23, 1827 |Mar. 25. |full size |light. |light. |light. | |April 30. | | | -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | | |Nov. 12, | | 1829 |April 24. |April 27. |4 inches. |Not noted. |Sept. 17. | | |sleet. | | -----+---------+------------+------------+------------+---------- | |begin Ap. | | | 1830 |April 1. |5. F. Size | | | | |May 1. | | |

These observations, upon a comparison with the same parallels oflatitude in the eastern states, show that there is no materialdifference of climate between the two sections of our country, exceptthat produced by local causes, as mountainous districts, contiguity tothe ocean, &c. 

A similar error has existed in relation to sudden and extreme changes ofweather in the West. People who emigrate to a new country have theircuriosity awakened, and perhaps for the first time in their lives becomequite observing of such changes. From habitually observing the weatherthe impression is produced on their minds that there is a markeddifference in this climate. Dr. Rush declares that there is but _one_steady trait in the character of the climate of Pennsylvania--and thatis, _it is uniformly variable_, and he asserts that he has known thethermometer fall 20° in one hour and a half. March 26-27, 1818, thethermometer in St. Louis, fell 41° in 30 hours--from 83° to 42°. I haveno record or recollection of a more sudden change in 18 years. Mr. Legaux saw it fall in the vicinity of Philadelphia, 47° in 24 hours, andDr. Drake states that this is five degrees more than any impression everobserved in Cincinnati, in the same length of time. Emigrants from NewEngland and the northern part of New York state, must not expect to findthe same climate in the West, at 38 or 40 degrees; but let them removeto the same parallel of latitude in the West, to Wisconsin, or thenorthern part of Illinois, and they will probably find a climate farmore uniform than the land of their birth. 

Prevailing winds modify and affect the climate of every country. Southwestwardly winds prevail along the Mississippi Valley. Thefollowing tabular view of observations made at Cincinnati, by Dr. D. Drake, for six succeeding years, with so few omissions, that they amountto 4200, will give further illustrations of this subject. They have beenbrought from eight points of the compass. 

 OBSERVATIONS. 

 MONTHS | S. E. | S. | S. W. | N. E. | N. | N. W. | E. | W. | CALM. ===========+======+====+======+======+====+======+====+====+======= January | 6 | 2 | 13 | 8 | 1 | 21 | 3 | 6 | 6 February | 5 | 1 | 13 | 8 | 1 | 14 | 0 | 5 | 8 March | 10 | 1 | 16 | 11 | 1 | 10 | 0 | 5 | 4 April | 7 | 0 | 24 | 10 | 1 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 5 May | 7 | 1 | 19 | 10 | 0 | 10 | 1 | 4 | 6 June | 9 | 1 | 23 | 12 | 5 | 7 | 1 | 2 | 3 July | 6 | 1 | 19 | 11 | 2 | 11 | 1 | 4 | 4 August | 6 | 1 | 23 | 10 | 1 | 12 | 1 | 1 | 6 September | 6 | 1 | 23 | 9 | 0 | 8 | 2 | 3 | 3 October | 9 | 1 | 24 | 6 | 1 | 10 | 2 | 4 | 3 November | 9 | 3 | 13 | 6 | 1 | 10 | 2 | 7 | 5 December | 7 | 1 | 11 | 5 | 0 | 15 | 2 | 6 | 9 -----------+------+----+------+------+----+------+----+----+------- Total | 87 | 14 | 221 | 106 | 14 | 136 | 16 | 50 | 62

The results of my own observations, made for twelve years, with theexception of 1826, and with some irregularity, from travelling indifferent parts of Missouri and Illinois during the time, do not vary inany material degree from the above table, excepting fewer east andnortheast winds. 

Dr. Drake has given a table, setting forth the results of 4268observations on the state of the weather at Cincinnati, from which itwill be perceived that of the 365 days in a year, about 176 will befair, 105 cloudy, and 84 variable. 

Dr. L. C. Beck made similar observations at St. Louis during the year1820, which produced the result of 245 clear days, and cloudy, includingvariable days, 110. 

 Years. |Clear days. |Cloudy days. |Variable days. ==============+===========+============+============== 1 | 180 | 107 | 68 2 | 158 | 112 | 91 3 | 187 | 78 | 85 4 | 152 | 106 | 107 5 | 185 | 111 | 68 6 | 172 | 112 | 74 --------------+-----------+------------+-------------- Total 6 years. | 1, 034 | 626 | 493 --------------+-----------+------------+-------------- Mean terms. | 172. 33 | 104. 33 | 82. 16

The following table shows the condition of the weather in each month ofa mean year, for the above period. 

 MONTHS. | Clear days. | Cloudy days. | Variable days. ==========+=============+==============+================ January | 9. 8 | 13. 1 | 7. 8 February | 10. 3 | 12. 0 | 6. 5 March | 13. 5 | 9. 1 | 8. 3 April | 13. 1 | 10. 8 | 7. 6 May | 15. 0 | 8. 5 | 7. 5 June | 15. 5 | 5. 0 | 9. 6 July | 19. 0 | 5. 5 | 6. 0 August | 19. 6 | 4. 6 | 6. 5 September | 19. 5 | 5. 3 | 6. 1 October | 16. 1 | 6. 0 | 8. 1 November | 9. 5 | 13. 5 | 5. 5 December | 9. 6 | 14. 1 | 5. 8

There would be some variations from the foregoing table in a series ofobservations in the country bordering upon the Upper Mississippi andMissouri. The weather in the states of Ohio and Kentucky, is doubtlessmore or less affected in autumn by the rains that fall on the Alleghanymountains, and the rise of the Ohio and its tributaries. So the weatherin the months of April, May and June in Missouri, is affected by thespring floods of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. 

The following table is constructed from a series of observations made atthe Military posts in the West, by the Surgeons of the U. S. Army, forfour years:--1822, 1823, 1824, and 1825. [See American Almanac for 1834, p. 81. ]

 ------------------+--------------------------+---------+---------+---------- | | | | | | | | | | | | | |N. |Elevation|Mean Temp. Posts. | Situations. |Latitude. |above the|for four | |deg. M. |ocean. |years. ------------------+--------------------------+---------+---------+---------- Fort Brady, |Sault de St. Mary, outlet | 46 22 | 5 95 | 41 37 | of Lake Superior, | | | Fort Snelling, |Mouth of St. Peters, 10 m. | 46 39 | 7 80 | 45 00 | below Falls St. Anthony, | | | Fort Howard, |Green bay, Wisconsin T. | 45 00 | 6 00 | 44 50 Fort Crawford, |Prairie du Chien, W. Ter. | 43 25 | 5 80 | 45 52 Council Bluffs, |Upper Missouri, | 41 31 | 8 00 | 50 82 Cantonment Jessup, |On Red river, La. | | | 68 31 Baton Rouge, |Louisiana, | 30 32 | | 68 07

continued

 ------------------+--------+--------+------------+------------------------- | | | | Weather. | | | +------------------------- | | | | MONTHLY AVERAGE. | | | +-----+------+-----+------ Posts. | | |Range of |Fair |Cloudy|Rainy|Snow |Maximum. |Minimum. |Thermometer. |days. |d's |days. |days. ------------------+--------+--------+------------+-----+------+-----+------ Fort Brady, | 90 | -33 | 1 23 |13 30| 2 27 |7 83 |6 02 | | | | | | | Fort Snelling, | 96 | -29 | 1 25 |16 94| 5 50 |5 77 |2 22 | | | | | | | Fort Howard, | 1 00 | -38 | 1 38 |15 47| 7 98 |4 56 |2 42 Fort Crawford, | 96 | -28 | 1 24 |16 80| 6 29 |3 87 |1 32 Council Bluffs, | 1 08 | -21 | 1 29 |19 68| 6 54 |2 95 |1 25 Cantonment Jessup, | 97 | 7 | 90 |18 63| 4 49 |7 25 | 05 Baton Rouge, | 99 | 18 | 81 |20 16| 4 08 |6 16 | - _signifies below zero. _

The times of observation at the above posts were 7 A. M. , and 2and 9, P. M. The mean of each month was deduced from 90observations, and of each year from 1095 observations. The reader, whois desirous of following up this comparative view of the climate betweenthe Atlantic states and the Valley of the Mississippi, can compare theobservations recorded in these tables, with similar observations made inthe same parallels of latitude. He will find the climate of the Westquite as uniform, and the weather as little variable as in the Atlanticstates. 

_Diseases_, --_Means of preserving health, &c. _ Of the Lower Valley, Ishall say but very little on this subject. Dr. Drake observes, "Thediseases of this portion of the Great Valley are few, and prevailchiefly in summer and autumn. They are the offspring of the combinedaction of intense heat and marsh exhalation. " They are generallyremittent and intermittent bilious fevers. Emigrants most generallyundergo a seasoning, or become acclimated. Many persons, however, fromthe northern and middle states, and from Europe, enjoy health. In sicklysituations these fevers are apt to return, and often prove fatal. Theyfrequently enfeeble the constitution, and produce chronic inflammationof the liver, enlargement of the spleen, or terminate in jaundice ordropsy, and disorder the digestive organs. When persons find themselvessubject to repeated attacks, the only safe resource is an annualmigration to a more northern climate during the summer. Many familiesfrom New Orleans, and other exposed situations, retire to the pinebarrens of Louisiana, in the hot and sickly season, where limpidstreams, flowing over a pebbly bed, and a terebinthine atmosphere areenjoyed. Eight months of the year, are pleasant and healthy in the LowerMississippi Valley. 

The advice of Dr. Drake is, that "Those who migrate from a colderclimate to the southern Mississippi states, should observe the followingdirections: First--To arrive there in autumn, instead of spring orsummer. Second--If practicable, to spend the hottest part of the firsttwo or three years, in a higher latitude. Third--To select thehealthiest situations. Fourth--To live temperately. Fifth--To preserve aregular habit. Lastly--To avoid the heat of the sun from 10 in themorning till 4 in the afternoon, and above all the night air. By astrict attention to these rules, many would escape the diseases of theclimate, who annually sink under its baleful influence. "

Those states and territories to which this work is intended moreimmediately as a GUIDE, do not differ very materially insalubrity. The same general features are found in each. There is butlittle diversity in climate, --their geological and physical structurecoincide, and the experience of years shows that there is no greatdifference. Where autumnal fevers are common they are usually of similarcharacter. The same causes for disease exist in Ohio as in Missouri, inMichigan as in Illinois, in Kentucky and Tennessee as in Indiana. Allthese states are much more infested with the maladies which depend onvariations of temperature, than the states farther south. All havelocalities where intermittents and agues are found, and all possessextensive districts of country where health is enjoyed by a very largeproportion of emigrants. There is some difference between a heavilytimbered and a prairie country, in favor of the latter; othercircumstances being equal. Changes favorable to continued health areproduced by the settlement and cultivation of any particular portion ofcountry. Of one fact I have long since satisfied my mind, that ordinaryfevers are not caused by the use of the water of the West. 

Exceptions may be made in some few cases, where a vein of water isimpregnated with some deleterious mineral substance. The use of a well, dug in the vicinity of a coal bed in Illinois, was supposed to havecaused sickness in a family for two seasons. Any offensive property inwater is readily detected by the taste. Cool, refreshing water is agreat preservative of health. It is common for families, (who are tooindifferent to their comfort to dig a well, ) to use the tepid, muddywater of the small streams in the frontier states, during the summer, orto dig a shallow well and wall it with timber, which soon imparts anoffensive taste to the water. Water of excellent quality may be found insprings, or by digging from 20 to 30 feet, throughout the westernstates. Most of the water thus obtained is hard water, from itslimestone qualities, but it is most unquestionably healthy. Thosepersons who emigrate from a region of sandstone, or primitive rock, where water is soft, will find our limestone water to produce a slightaffection of the bowels, which will prove more advantageous to healththan otherwise, and which will last but a few weeks. Whenever diseaseprevails in the western states, it may generally be attributed to one ormore of the following causes. 

1st. _Variations of the temperature. _ This cause, we have alreadyshown, exists to as great extent in the same latitude east of themountains. 

2nd. _The rapid decomposition of vegetable matter. _ In all our richlands, there are vast quantities of vegetable matter mixed with thesoil, or spread over the surface. Extreme hot weather, followingespecially a season of much rain, before the middle of July, willproduce sickness. If the early part of summer be tolerably dry, althougha hot season follows, sickness does not generally prevail. The year 1820was an exception to this rule. It was throughout, a very dry, hot, sickly year through the West; indeed, throughout the world. A wetseason, with a moderately cool atmosphere, has proved healthy. 

3d. _Marsh exhalations. _ These, combined with heat, will always generatefevers. Indeed, there is probably very little difference in the miasmthrown off from decomposed vegetable matter, and that produced fromsluggish streams, standing waters and marshes. These, in the greatValley, abound with decayed vegetable matter. Hence, along the streamswhich have alluvial _bottoms_ (as low lands upon streams are called inthe West, ) some of which are annually overflowed, and where the timberand luxuriant vegetable growth are but partially subdued, theinhabitants are liable to fevers, dysenteries and agues. Situationsdirectly under the bluffs adjacent to the bottom lands, that lie uponour large rivers, especially when the vegetation is unsubdued, haveproved unhealthy. So have situations at the heads or in the slope ofthe ravines that put down from the bluffs towards the rivers. 

The principal diseases that prevail may be stated as follows. In thewinter, and early in the spring, severe colds, inflammation of the lungsand pleurisies are most common. The genuine hereditary consumption ofNew-England is rare, and families and individuals predisposed to thatdisease might often be preserved by migration to this Valley. Acuteinflammation of the brain, and inflammatory rheumatism are not unusualat that season. 

During the summer and autumn, cholera infantum with children in largetowns, diarrhoea, cholera morbus, dysentery, intermittent andremittent bilious fevers prevail. The intermittent assumes variousforms, and has acquired several names amongst the country people, whereit prevails more generally than in large towns. It is called the "chilland fever, "--"ague, "--"dumb ague, " &c. , according to its form of attack. 

The remittent fever is the most formidable of our autumnal diseases, especially when of a highly bilious type. In most seasons, thesediseases are easily managed, and yield to a dose or two of medicine. Sore eyes, especially in autumn, is a common complaint in the frontiersettlements, and when neglected or improperly managed, have terminatedin total blindness. 

The "milk sickness, " as it is called, occasionally prevails in somelocalities, some particulars of which will be found in another place. There is a disease that afflicts many frontier people, called by some"sick stomach, " by others, "water brash, " from its symptoms of suddennausea, with vomiting, especially after meals. 

In 1832, the cholera made its appearance in the West. In many places, its first approach was attended with great mortality, but its secondvisit to a place has been in a milder and more manageable form. It hasvisited various parts of the West on each returning season since, especially along the great rivers and about the steamboats. It appearsto have changed somewhat the characteristics of our western diseases, and will probably become a modified and manageable disease. Since itsvisit, our fevers are more congestive, less bile is secreted, and thestomach more affected. The subject will doubtless be noticed by ourphysicians, and observations made, how far this new disease will becomeassimilated to the ordinary diseases of the country. 

We are satisfied, after a long course of observations, much travelling, and conversing with many hundreds of families with the view of arrivingat correct conclusions on these subjects, _that there is no suchoperation as that of emigrants undergoing a seasoning, or becomingacclimated_, in the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Michigan, or the Wisconsin Territory. _Nor does itmake the least difference from what part of the United States, orEurope, they come, nor whether they arrive here in the spring orautumn. _ There is an erroneous notion prevailing in some of the Atlanticstates on this subject, that should be corrected. When sicknessprevails, there is just as much, and it is equally severe, amongst theold settlers, those born in the country, or who migrate from theCarolinas or Georgia, as those who come from the northern states. Families are just as liable to sickness, and are as often attacked forthe first time, after residing several years in the country, as at anyother time. A large proportion of the families and individuals, whoremove from New England to the various parts of the Valley, north of the37th degree of latitude have no sickness the first year. 

The impression has formerly existed abroad, that Illinois is lesshealthy than other western states. This is entirely erroneous. As in allcountries, there are some localities, where the causes that producesickness exist more than in others. This is not the fact with Illinoisin general. 

That this state is as healthy as any other western state, can beabundantly supported by facts. Let a candid observer compare the healthof the early settlers of New England, with that of the early settlers ofthe West, and he will find the scale to preponderate in favor of thelatter. Unless there is some strange fatality attending Illinois, itspopulation must be more healthy than the early settlers of a timberedregion. But in no period of its history have sickness and deathtriumphed, in any respect equal to what they did two or three yearssince, in the lake country of New York. 

The year 1811, is recorded in the memoirs of the early settlers, as aseason of unusual sickness near the banks of the Mississippi andMissouri rivers. The latter river rose to an unusual height in June, thewaters of the small creeks were backed up, and a large surface ofluxuriant vegetation was covered and deadened. This was succeeded by hotand dry weather. Bilious and intermittent fevers prevailed extensively. The seasons of 1819, '20, and '21 were usually sickly in Illinois andMissouri. Emigrants, in shoals, had spread over a wide range of countrywithin a year or two preceding. Multitudes were placed undercircumstances the most unfavorable to the preservation of health, in newand open cabins of green timber, often using the stagnant water ofcreeks and ponds, with a luxuriant vegetation around them undergoingdecomposition, and all the other evils attendant on the settlement of anew and unbroken country. Under such circumstances, can it be surprisingthat many were sick, and that many died? The summer of 1820 was thehottest and driest ever known in this country. For weeks in succession, the thermometer, in the shade at St. Louis, was up to 96° for hours inthe day. Not a cloud came over the sun, to afford a partial relief fromits burning influence. The fevers of that season were unusually rapid, malignant, and unmanageable. Almost every mark of the yellow fever, aslaid down in the books, was exhibited in many cases, both in town andcountry. The bilious fever put on its most malignant type. Black, foetid matter was discharged from the stomach, and by stools. Thewriter and all his family suffered severely that season. He livedseventeen miles from St. Louis, on the road to St. Charles in Missouri, on a farm. The settlement had been called healthy. The Missouri bottomwas one mile distant. Three miles west southwest, was the Creve-coeurlake, a body of water several miles in length and half a mile in width, connected by an outlet with the Missouri river. The water of this lakewas entirely stagnant, covered with a thick scum, and sent forth anoisome smell. Fish in it died. My oldest son, a robust youth of tenyears of age, and my brother-in-law, a hale and stout young man, sickened and died the first week in October. I was attacked the 5th dayof July, came as near dying as a person could and recover. All mychildren were sick. While convalescent, in September, I took a longjourney to Cape Girardeau country, 120 miles south, and back through thelead mine country to the Missouri river, 60 miles west of St. Louis, andin all the route found that sickness had prevailed to the same extent. 

At Vincennes and other parts of Indiana, disease triumphed. The countryaround Vincennes, on the east side of the Wabash, is a sandy plain. Agentleman who escaped the ravages of fever in that place, and who wasmuch engaged in nursing the sick and consoling the dying, stated to methat nothing was so disheartening as the cloudless sky and burning sunthat continued unchanged for weeks in succession. Mortality prevailed toa great extent along the banks of the Wabash. Hindostan, a town on theeast fork of White river, 38 miles from Vincennes on the road toLouisville, was begun the preceding year. Seventy or eighty families hadcrowded in at the commencement of the year 1820. The heavy timber ofpoplar, (whitewood) oak and beech, had been cut down, the brush burned, and the logs left on the ground. By June the bark was loosened, anintolerable stench proceeded from the timber, --sickness followed, andabout two thirds of the population died! And yet, to look about theplace, there is no local cause that would indicate sickness. In thesummer of 1821, sickness prevailed very extensively, but in a muchmilder form. Its type was intermittent, and usually yielded to ordinaryremedies. During that year the number of deaths in St. Louis was136--the population 5000. At least one third of that number werestrangers and transient persons, who either arrived sick, or were takensick within two or three days after arrival. St. Louis had then no_police_ regulations--the streets were filthy in the extreme--and thepopulation were crowded into every hole and corner. This was the mostsickly and dying season St. Louis ever knew, except when the choleraprevailed in October, 1832. 

The same years (1820-21) were noted for unusual sickness throughout theUnited States, and indeed the whole world. The bilious fever prevailedin the hilly and mountainous districts of Virginia and Pennsylvania, andeven among the Green Mountains of Vermont. 

Very little general sickness (except cholera in 1832-'33) prevailed in1830, '31, '32, or '33. In 1834, congestive fever, and dysentery, withsome of the symptoms of cholera, existed in many places in the West, though not extensively fatal. In the month of June, were frequent suddenshowers in Illinois and Missouri, with intervals of extreme heat. Julyand August very hot and dry. The disease began early in July andcontinued till September. 

The year 1835, was the most sickly year, for common intermittents, _which prevailed more amongst the old settlers, than the newly arrivedemigrants_. In Illinois, and generally throughout the West, below thefortieth degree of latitude, it was sickly, though not fatal. Early inthe spring, till the month of May, it was unusually dry, and vegetationwas two weeks later than usual. May and a part of June were very wet, followed by a few days of extremely hot weather. Vegetation grew withgreat luxuriance. Newly ploughed ground sent forth a noxious effluvium, with a most offensive odour, and after a few days would be covered witha greenish coat, like the scum on stagnant water. Town situations, evenalong the banks of river, were comparatively healthy. 

In case of sickness, physicians are to be found in almost every county, and every season adds to their number. Charges are somewhat higher thanin the northern states. Many families keep a few simple articles ofmedicine, and administer for themselves. Calomel is a specific; and istaken by multitudes without hesitation, or fear of danger. From fifteento twenty grains are an ordinary dose for a cathartic. Whenever nauseaof the stomach, pains in the limbs, and yawning, or a chill, indicatethe approach of disease, a dose of calomel is taken at night, in alittle apple honey, or other suitable substance, and followed up in themorning with a dose of castor oil, or salts, to produce a brisk purge. Sometimes an emetic is preferred. Either a cathartic or an emetic willleave the system under some debility. The mistake frequently made is, innot following up the evacuating medicine with tonics. This should bedone invariably, unless the paroxysm of fever has commenced. A few dosesof sulphate of quinine or Peruvian bark in its crude state, will restorethe system to its natural tone. To prevent an attack of fever, medicineshould be taken on the very first symptoms of a diseased stomach; itshould not be tampered with, but taken in sufficient doses to relievethe system from morbid effects, and then followed up by tonics, torestore its vigor and prevent relapse. 

New comers will find it advantageous for protecting themselves from thedamp atmosphere at night, to provide close dwellings; yet when the airis clear, to leave open doors and windows at night for free circulation, but not to sleep directly in the current of air; and invariably to wearthin clothing in the heat of the day, and put on thicker garments atnight, and in wet and cloudy weather. 

I have observed that those families are seldom sick who live incomfortable houses, with tight floors, and well ventilated rooms; andwho, upon change of weather, and especially in time of rains, make alittle fire in the chimney, although the thermometer might not indicatethe necessity. 

In fine, I am prepared to give my opinion, decidedly, in favor of thegeneral health of this country and climate. I would not certainly beanswerable for all the bad locations, the imprudences, and whims of allclasses of emigrants, which may operate unfavorably to health. I onlyspeak for myself and family. I decidedly prefer this climate, with allits miasm, to New-England, with its northeast winds, and damp, "raw" andpulmonary atmosphere. We very seldom have fogs in Illinois and Missouri. My memoranda, kept with considerable accuracy, for twelve years, givenot more than half a dozen foggy mornings in a year. 

The following comparisons between St. Louis and several eastern cities, will afford some evidence of the opinions expressed above. I haveremarked already, that 1821, was more sickly in St. Louis, than anypreceding year, and deaths were more numerous in proportion to thepopulation. Some cases of fever were more malignant in 1820, in thatplace, but deaths were more frequent the following season. I solemnizedthe marriage of a young lady of my acquaintance, who was under the ageof fourteen years. In eight days she was a widow. At the funeral of agentleman the same season, who left a widow under twenty years, therewere present thirteen widows, all under twenty-four years of age, andall had lost their companions that season. Young men were victims morethan any other age or condition. And yet I am prepared to show, that St. Louis, that summer, was not more sickly than several eastern cities werein 1820 and 1823. 

The population of St. Louis in 1821, varied but little from 5, 000; thenumber of deaths during that year was one hundred and thirty-six. Thisaccount was taken by the Rev. Salmon Giddings, who was particular incollecting the facts. The proportion of the deaths to the population wasone to thirty-five. 

In 1820, Boston contained a population of 43, 893, --number of deaths1, 103; proportion one to thirty-nine and three fourths. 

New-York the same year contained a population of 123, 000, --deaths 3, 515;being a proportion of one to a fraction less than thirty-five. 

In Philadelphia, the population then was 108, 000, --deaths 3, 374; beinga proportion of one to thirty-two. 

Baltimore had a population of 62, 000, --deaths 1, 625; being a proportionof one to thirty-eight. 

The aggregate population of these four cities in 1820, was 336, 893; theaggregate number of deaths, 9, 617; the proportion of one to thirty-five, the same as that of St. Louis. 

IN 1823. 

_Boston. _ Population estimated at 45, 000; number of deaths by officialreturns, 1, 154; the proportion of one to thirty-nine. 

_New-York. _ Population about 130, 000, --deaths 3, 444; proportion of oneto thirty-seven and two thirds. 

_Philadelphia. _ Population about 120, 000, --deaths 4, 600, proportion ofone to twenty-six. [This was an uncommonly sickly season inPhiladelphia. ]

_Baltimore. _ Population estimated at 65, 000; deaths were 2, 108;proportion of one to thirty and two thirds. 

I have thus selected the mortality of St. Louis during the most sicklyseason since my residence in this country, and compared it with thebills of mortality of four eastern cities for two years, those of 1820and 1823, and the result is favorable to the health of St. Louis, and byconsequence, to the adjoining States. For ten years past, there has beenno general sickness in St. Louis, during the summer and autumnalmonths, excepting the cholera in 1832. 

Some parts of Indiana and Ohio are unquestionably more subject tobilious attacks than Illinois. The reason is obvious. Much of thatregion is heavily timbered, and, upon cutting it away in spots, andletting in the rays of the sun upon vegetable matter undergoingdecomposition, miasmata are generated. These regions will becomecomparatively healthy, when put under general cultivation. 

The story is told, that the late emperor of France lay encamped with oneof his armies near a place reputed unhealthy, when one of his officersrequested a furlough. The reason being asked, and given, that the placewas unhealthy, and the applicant feared to die an inglorious death fromfever: Napoleon replied, in his accustomed laconic style, "Go to yourpost; men die everywhere. "

If a family emigrate to a new and distant country, and any of the numbersicken and die, we are apt to indulge in unavailing regret at theremoval; whereas had the same afflictive event happened before removal, it would have been regarded in quite a different light. Let then, nonecome to Illinois who do not expect to be sick and to die, wheneverDivine Providence shall see fit so to order events. 

The _milk sickness_ is a disease of a singular character, which prevailsin certain places. It first affects animals, especially cows, and fromthem is communicated to the human system by eating the milk, or flesh. The symptoms of the disease indicate poison; and the patient is affectednearly in the same way, as when poisonous ingredients have been receivedinto the system. Cattle, when attacked by it, usually die. In manyinstances it proves mortal in the human system; in others, if yields tothe skill of the physician. Much speculation has been had upon itscause, which is still unknown. The prevailing idea is, that it is causedby some poisonous substance eaten by the cattle, but whether vegetableor mineral, remains undetermined. Physicians and others have attemptedto ascertain the cause of this disease, but hitherto without success. 

It infests only particular spots, or small districts, and these are soonfound out. There are places in Ohio, Indiana, and the southern states, where it exists. Its effects are more frequent in autumn than any otherseason; and to guard against it, the people either keep their cows in apasture, or refuse to use their milk. Some have supposed this disease tobe produced by the cattle feeding on the _cicuta virosa_, or waterhemlock; as a similar disease once infested the cattle in the north ofEurope, the cause of which was traced out by the great naturalistLinnæus; but it is not known that this species of plant exists amongstthe botanical productions of Missouri and Illinois. 

Anxious to furnish all the information, on this very important subject, to persons desirous of emigrating to the West, I will prolong thischapter by inserting the following:

"ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS, RECENT SETTLERS, AND TO THOSE VISITING THESOUTHERN COUNTRY. 

"The outlines which have already been given will afford some informationto emigrants from other sections of the Union, or from Europe. We willnow offer a few cautionary remarks, particularly intended for such asare about to settle, or have recently settled in this section of theUnited States. 

"Of new comers, there are two tolerably distinct classes: the onecomprising farmers, mechanics, and indeed all those who calculate onobtaining a subsistence by manual industry; the other is composed ofprofessional men, tradesmen, and adventurers of every description. Towards the first class our attention is now directed, premising thatthroughout a great portion of the western country, except in largetowns, almost every mechanic is almost necessarily a farmer; thepopulation being in but few places sufficiently dense to support thatdesignation of mechanical employments which is common in the eastern andmiddle states. 

"For the industrious and temperate of this class, our country holdsforth inducements which are not generally known or understood. 

"The language of indiscriminate panegyric, which has been bestowed onits climate and soil, has conveyed little information, and is the sourceof many fears and suspicions in the minds of people at a distance. Otheraccounts have described the western country as uniformly sickly; but thehabit of exaggeration in its favor has been most prevalent; neither needwe wonder, when much of the information communicated, has been affordedby interested landholders, or speculators, and by travellers, whoseviews have been superficial, and whose journeys have been performedgenerally, either on the rivers or by post roads. 

"The first inquiry of a substantial farmer, from one of the old settledstates, is mostly, for good land in the vicinity of a market; andafterwards, whether the situation be healthy. It is true that there aremany places in the western country, affording the qualities expressed inthis description, but they are perhaps all occupied; and it would be, inseveral respects, more advisable for a farmer, possessing even aconsiderable sum of money in hand, to inquire first for a healthysituation, and then good land. 

"The spirit of improvement throughout the United States, especiallyevidenced in canalling, and rail-roads, will, it is hoped, in a fewyears, open modes of communication, which as yet are wanting, with themarkets. 

"The same remarks will apply to the poorer class of emigrants. If theyvalue their own health, and that of their families, the main object oftheir attention will be to secure, if possible, a situation remote fromthe fogs that hover over the channels of large rivers, which becomepartly dry in summer, and from the neighborhood of swamps, marshes, ponds, and small lakes. 

"Every person, on coming from beyond the mountains, and especially fromthe eastern States, or Europe, will have to undergo some degree ofchange in his constitution, before it becomes naturalized to theclimate; and all who move from a cold to a considerably warmer part ofthe western country will experience the same alteration; it will, therefore, be wisdom for the individual brought up in a more rigorousclimate, that he seek a situation where the circulation of the air isunimpeded and free, and that he avoid those flat and marshy districts, which have been already described. 

"Those who settle in new countries are almost universally exposed toinconveniences which have an unfavorable influence on health. They areseldom able for a length of time to erect comfortable places ofresidence; and indeed, many postpone this important object of attention, even after their circumstances will permit them to build comfortabledwelling houses. 

"Wool is mostly a scarce article in new settlements, so that cotton andlinen garments are too frequently worn in winter. There is anothercircumstance, which no doubt has an unfavorable influence on health, especially among the poorer class: it is the want, during the summerseason particularly, of substantial food. This is sometimes owing toindolence or improvidence; but perhaps oftener, to the circumstances inwhich a few families are placed, at a distance from any established oropulent settlement. 

"Erroneous views are too generally entertained in relation to hardeningthe human system; and the analogies drawn from savage life, arealtogether inconclusive. The manners of the North American Indians areessentially different from those of the whites. It is true, there is aportion of the latter, especially in Illinois and Missouri, who frominfancy are educated almost in the habits of the aborigines. 

"We have frequently heard the example of savages referred to, as anargument in favor of attempting to strengthen the constitution byexposure. [6] There is plausibility in this; but might not the exampleof the negroes in the lower parts of South Carolina and Georgia, be alsoquoted as evidencing the propriety of living on corn meal and sweetpotatoes, and working every day in the water of a rice field during thesickly season? They are generally more healthy than the whites who ownthem, and who reside on the plantations in the summer. The civilized manmay turn to savage life perhaps with safety, as regards health; but thenhe must plunge with the Indian into the depths of the forest, andobserve consistency in all his habits. These pages are not written, however, for such as are disposed to consider themselves beyond the paleof civilized society; but for the reflecting part of the community, whocan estimate the advantages to be derived from a prudent care of health. 

"Much disease, especially in the more recently settled parts of thiscountry, is consequent to neglecting simple and comfortableprecautionary means; sometimes this neglect is owing to misdirectedindustry, and at others to laziness or evil habits. 

"To have a dry house, if it be a log one, with the openings between thelogs well filled up, so that it may be kept warm in winter; to fill upall the holes in its vicinity which may contain stagnant water; to havea good clean spring or well, sufficient clothing, and a reasonablesupply of provisions, should be the first object of a settler'sattention: but frequently a little, wet, smoky cabin or hovel iserected, with the floor scarcely separated from the ground, andadmitting the damp and unwholesome air. All hands that can work, areimpelled, by the father's example, to labor beyond their strength, andmore land is cleared and planted with corn than is well tended; forover-exertion, change in the manner of living, and the influence ofother debilitating causes, which have been mentioned, bring sickness onat least a part of the family, before the summer is half over. 

"It is unnecessary for even the poorest emigrant to encounter thesecauses of distress, unless seduced by the misrepresentations of someinterested landholder, or by the fantasies of his own brain, to anunhealthy and desolate situation, where he can neither help himself, norbe assisted by others. 

"Many persons on moving into the _back woods_, who have been accustomedto the decencies of life, think it little matter how they live, because_no one sees them_. Thus we have known a family of some opulence toreside for years in a cabin unfit for the abode of any human being, because they could not find time to build a house; and whenever itrained hard, the females were necessarily engaged in rolling the bedsfrom one corner of the room to another, in order to save them from thewater that poured in through the roof. This cabin was intended at firstas only a very temporary residence, and was erected on the edge of aswamp, for the convenience of being near to a spring. How unreasonablemust such people be, if they expect health!

"Clothing for winter should be prepared in summer. It is a common, butvery incorrect practice among many farmers, both west and east of theAlleghany mountains, to postpone wearing winter clothing until theweather has become extremely cold: this is a fruitful source ofpulmonary diseases, of rheumatisms, and of fevers. 

"With regard to providing a sufficiency of nourishing food, no specificdirections can be given, further than to recommend, what is muchneglected--particular attention to a good garden spot; and to remark, that those who devote undivided attention to cultivating the soil, receive more uniform supplies of suitable nourishment than the moreindolent, who spend a considerable portion of their time in hunting. 

"New settlers are not unfrequently troubled with diseases of the skin, which are often supposed to be the itch: for these eruptions theygenerally use repellant external applications; this plan of treatment isprejudicial. 

"The most proper time for the removal of families to this country fromthe Atlantic states, is early in the spring, while the rivers are full;or if the journey be made by land, as soon as the roads are sufficientlysettled, and the waters abated. 

"Persons unaccustomed to the climate of the lower Mississippi country, are necessarily exposed, whilst there in the summer season, to manycauses of disease. It will be advisable for such to have a prudent careof their health, and yet, a care distinct from that finical timiditywhich renders them liable to early attacks of sickness. 

"There is one important consideration, which perhaps has been somewhatoverlooked by medical men, who have written on this subject. Natives ofcolder and healthier regions, when exposed in southern and sicklyclimates, experience, if they remain any length of time without evidentand violent disease, an alteration in the condition of the liver, andof the secreted bile itself; when it passes through the bowels, itscolor being much darker than usual. Sometimes, indeed, it appears to be"locked up in the liver, " the stools having an ashen appearance. Thisstate of the biliary secretion is frequently accompanied, although thepatient is otherwise apparently in tolerable health, by a pain over theeye-balls, particularly when the eyes are rolled upward. 

"The proper mode of treatment for such symptoms is, to take withoutdelay, not less than twenty grains of calomel, and in eight hours a wineglass full of castor oil. The tone of the stomach should not be sufferedto sink too much after the operation of the medicine, which, ifnecessary, may be repeated in twenty-four hours. Sulphate of quinine, orother tonics, with nutritive food, which is easy of digestion, shouldalso be taken in moderate portions at a time. 

"Where diseases are rapid in their progress, and dangerous, no time isto be lost. The practice of taking salts and other aperients, when inexposed situations, and for the purpose of preventing disease, isinjurious. It is sufficient, that the bowels be kept in a natural andhealthy state; for all cathartics, even the mildest, have a tendency tonauseate the stomach, create debility, and weaken the digestive faculty. A reduction of tone in the system, which is always advantageous, will bemore safely effected by using somewhat less than usual of animal food, and of spirituous, strong vinous, or fermented liquors. The robust willderive benefit from losing a little blood. 

"It ought to be well understood, that as we approximate tropicalclimates, the doses of medicine, when taken, should be increased inquantity, and repeated with less delay than is admissible in coldercountries. Exposure to the night air is certainly prejudicial; so alsois the intense heat of the sun, in the middle of the day. Violentexercise should also be avoided. Bathing daily in water of a comfortabletemperature, is a very commendable practice; and cotton worn next theskin is preferable to linen. 

"It is impossible to prevent the influence of an atmosphere pregnantwith the causes of disease; but the operation of those causes maygenerally be counteracted by attention to the rules laid down; and it isno small consolation to be aware, that on recovery from the firstattack, the system is better adapted to meet and sustain a second of asimilar nature. The reader will understand that we do not allude torelapses, occurring while the system is enfeebled by the consequences ofdisease. "

To the foregoing remarks, I add the following, from an address of JudgeHall to the "Antiquarian and Historical Society of Illinois, " December10, 1827. 

"The climate, particularly in reference to its influence on the humansystem, presents another subject of investigation. The western countryhas been considered unhealthy; and there have been writers, whosedisturbed imaginations have misled them into a belief that the wholeland was continually exposed to the most awful visitations ofProvidence, among which have been numbered the hurricane, thepestilence, and the earthquake. If we have been content to smile at suchexaggerations, while few had leisure to attempt a serious refutation, and while the facts upon which any deliberate opinion must have beenbased, had not been sufficiently tested by experience, the time has nowarrived when it is no longer excusable to submit in silence to thereproaches of ignorance or malice. It is proper, however, to remark, aswell in extenuation of those who have assailed our country, as in thesupport of the confidential denial, which I feel authorized to make totheir assertions, that a vast improvement in the article of health hastaken place within a few years. Diseases are now mild which were oncemalignant, and their occurrence is annually becoming less frequent. Thishappy change affords strong authority for the belief, that although themaladies which have heretofore afflicted us, were partly imputable tothe climate, other, and more powerful causes of disease must haveexisted, which have vanished. We who came to the frontier, while the axewas still busy in the forest, and when thousands of the acres which nowyield abundance to the farmer, were unreclaimed and tenantless, haveseen the existence of our fellow citizens assailed by other than theordinary ministers of death. Toil, privation and exposure, have hurriedmany to the grave; imprudence and carelessness of life, have sent crowdsof victims prematurely to the tomb. It is not to be denied that themargins of our great streams in general, and many spots in the vicinityof extensive marshes, are subject to bilious diseases; but it may be asconfidently asserted, that the interior country is healthy. Yet thefirst settlers invariably selected the rich alluvion lands upon thenavigable rivers, in preference to the scarcely less fertile soil of theprairies, lying in situations less accessible, and more remote frommarket. They came to a wilderness in which houses were not prepared fortheir reception, nor food, other than that supplied by nature, providedfor their sustenance. They often encamped on the margin of the riverexposed to its chilly atmosphere, without a tent to shelter, withscarcely a blanket to protect them. Their first habitations were rudecabins, affording scarcely a shelter from the rain, and too frail toafford protection from the burning heat of the noonday sun, or thechilling effects of the midnight blast. As their families increased, another and another cabin was added, as crazy and as cheerless as thefirst, until, admonished of the increase of their own substance, theinflux of wealthier neighbors, and the general improvement of thecountry around them, they were allured by pride to do that to which theynever would have been impelled by suffering. The gratuitous exposure tothe climate, which the backwoodsman seems rather to court than avoid, isa subject of common remark. No extremity of weather confines him to theshelter of his own roof. Whether the object be business or pleasure, itis pursued with the same composure amid the shadows of the night, or thehowling of the tempest, as in the most genial season. Nor is this traitof character confined to woodsmen or to farmers; examples of hardihoodare contagious, and in this country all ranks of people neglect, ordespise the ordinary precautions with respect to health. Judges andlawyers, merchants, physicians and ministers of the gospel, set theseasons at defiance in the pursuit of their respective callings. Theyprosecute their journeys regardless of weather; and learn at last tofeel little inconvenience from the exposure, which is silentlyundermining their constitutions. Is it extraordinary that people thusexposed should be attacked by violent maladies? Would it not be morewonderful that such a careless prodigality of life could pass withimpunity? These remarks might be extended; the food of the firstsettler, consisting chiefly of fresh meat without vegetables and oftenwithout salt; the common use of ardent spirits, the want of medical aid, by which diseases, at first simple, being neglected become dangerous;and other evils peculiar to a new country, might be noticed as fruitfulsources of disease; but I have already dwelt sufficiently on thissubject. That this country is decidedly healthy, I feel no hesitation indeclaring; but neither argument nor naked assertions will convince theworld. Let us collect such facts as amount to evidence, and establishthe truth by undeniable demonstration. "

FOOTNOTES:

[6] Uniform exposure to the weather is favorable to health. I can affirmthis from long experience and observation. Our hunters, and surveyors, who uniformly spend their time for weeks in the woods and prairies, whowade in the water, swim creeks, are drenched in the rains and dews, andsleep in the open air or a camp at night, very rarely are attacked withfevers. I have known repeated instances of young men, brought updelicately in the eastern cities, accustomed, as clerks, to a sedentarylife, with feeble constitutions, --I have known such repeatedly to enterupon the business of surveying the public lands, or in the hunting andtrapping business, be absent for months, and return with robust health. It is a common thing for a frontier man, whose health is on the decline, and especially when indications of pulmonary affection appear, to engagein a hunting expedition to renovate his health. I state these facts, andleave it to the medical faculty to explain the _why and wherefore_. Onecircumstance may deserve attention. All these men, as do the Indians, _sleep with their feet towards the fire at night_. And it is a commonnotion with this class, that if the feet are kept hot through the night, however cold the atmosphere, or however much exposed the rest of thebody, no evil consequences will ensue. I have passed many a night inthis position, after fatiguing rides of thirty or forty miles in the dayon our extreme frontiers, and through rains, and never experienced anyinconvenience to health, if I could get a pallet on the cabin floor, andmy feet to the fire. 

Those who are exposed to these hardships but occasionally, whencompelled by necessity, and who endeavor to protect themselves at allother times, usually suffer after such exposure. 

I have observed that children, when left to run in the open air andweather, who go barefoot, and oftentimes with a single light garmentaround them, who sleep on the floor at night, are more healthy thanthose who are protected. 

CHAPTER IV. 

CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE. 

Cotton and Sugar Planters;--Farmers;--Population of the large towns andcities;--Frontier class;--Hunters and Trappers;--Boatmen. 

There is great diversity in the character and habits of the populationof the Valley of the Mississippi. 

Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic states, as have a very largeproportion of those persons who were not born in the Valley, of coursedo not differ essentially from the remaining population of those states. Some slight shades of difference are perceptible in such persons as havelived long enough in the country to become assimilated to the habits, and partake of the feelings, of western people. 

Emigrants from Europe have brought the peculiarities of the nations andcountries from whence they have originated, but are fast losing theirnational manners, and feelings, and, to use a provincial term, will soonbecome "westernized. "

The march of emigration from the Atlantic border has been nearly in aline due west. Tennessee was settled by Carolinians, and Kentucky byVirginians. Ohio received the basis of its population from the states inthe same parallel, and hence partakes of all the varieties from Marylandto New England. Michigan is substantially a child of New York. Theplanters of the south have gone to Mississippi, Louisiana, and thesouthern part of Arkansas. Kentucky and Tennessee have spread their sonsand daughters over Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; but the two formerstates are now receiving great numbers of emigrants from all thenorthern states, including Ohio, and multitudes from the south, whodesire to remove beyond the boundaries and influence of a slavepopulation. 

Slavery in the west, keeps nearly in the same parallels as it holds inthe east, and is receding south, as it does on the Atlantic coast. Manydescendants of the Scotch, Irish and Germans, have come into thefrontier states from Western Pennsylvania. 

We have European emigrants from Great Britain and Ireland. Those of thelatter are more generally found about our large towns and cities, andalong the lines of canalling. 

The French were the explorers and early settlers of the Valleyimmediately bordering on the Mississippi, 150 years since. They formedthe basis of population of Louisiana a few years since, but arerelatively diminishing before the emigration from other states of theUnion. Their descendants show many of the peculiar and distinctivetraits of that people in all countries. They possess mild vivacity, andgaiety, and are distinguished for their quiet, inoffensive, domestic, frugal, and unenterprising spirit and manners. The poorer class ofFrench are rather peculiar and unique. Their ancestors were isolatedfrom the rest of the world, had no object of excitement or ambition, cared little for wealth, or the accumulation of property, and wereaccustomed to hunt, make voyages in their canoes, smoke and traffic withthe Indians. But few of them knew how to read and write. Accustomed frominfancy to the life of huntsmen, trappers and boatmen, they make butindifferent farmers. They are contented to live in the same rude, butneatly whitewashed cabin, cultivate the same cornfields in the samemode, and drive the same rudely constructed horse cart their fathersdid. In the neatness of their gardens, which are usually cultivated bythe females, they excel the Americans. They are the _coureurs du bois_of the West. 

The European Germans are now coming into the Valley by thousands, and, for a time, will retain their manners and language. 

_Cotton and Sugar Planters. _--These people, found chiefly inMississippi, Louisiana, and the southern part of Arkansas, have a greatdegree of similarity. They are noted for their high-mindedness, generosity, liberality, hospitality, sociability, quick sense of honor, resentment of injuries, indolence, and, in too many cases, dissipation. They are much addicted to the sports of the turf and the vices of thegaming table. Still there are many planters of strictly moral, and evenreligious habits. They are excessively jealous of their politicalrights, yet frank and open hearted in their dispositions, and carry theduties of hospitality to a great extent. Having overseers on most oftheir plantations, the labor being performed by slaves, they have muchleisure, and are averse to much personal attention to business. Theydislike care, profound thinking and deep impressions. The young men arevolatile, gay, dashing and reckless spirits, fond of excitement and highlife. There is a fatal propensity amongst the southern planters todecide quarrels, and even trivial disputes by duels. But there are alsomany amiable and noble traits of character amongst this class; and ifthe principles of the Bible and religion could be brought to exert acontrolling influence, there would be a noble spirited race of people inthe southwestern states. 

It cannot be expected that I should pass in entire silence the system ofslaveholding in the lower Valley, or its influence on the manners andhabits of the people. This state of society seems unavoidable atpresent, though I have no idea or expectation it will be perpetual. Opposite sentiments and feelings are spreading over the whole earth, anda person must have been a very inattentive observer of the tendenciesand effects of the diffusion of liberal principles not to perceive thathereditary, domestic servitude must have an end. 

This is a subject, however, that from our civil compact, belongsexclusively to the citizens of the states concerned; and if notunreasonably annoyed, the farming slaveholding states, as Kentucky, Tennessee and Missouri, will soon provide for its eventual termination. Doubtless, in the cotton and sugar growing states it will retain itshold with more tenacity, but the influence of free principles will rollonward until the evil is annihilated. 

The barbarous and unwise regulations in some of the planting states, _which prohibit the slaves from being taught to read_, are a seriousimpediment to the moral and religious instruction of that numerous andunfortunate class. Such laws display on the part of the law makers, little knowledge of human nature and the real tendency of things. Tokeep _slaves_ entirely ignorant of the rights of man, in thisspirit-stirring age, is utterly impossible. Seek out the remotest anddarkest corner of Louisiana, and plant every guard that is possiblearound the negro quarters, and the light of truth will penetrate. Slaveswill find out, for they already know it, that they possess rights asmen. And here is the fatal mistake now committed in the southernslaveholding states--legislating against the instruction of theirslaves--to keep them from knowing their rights. They will obtain someloose, vague, and undefined notion of the doctrine of human rights, andthe unrighteousness of oppression in this republican country. Beingkept from all the moral and religious instruction which Sabbath schools, the Bible, and other good books are calculated to impart, and with thoseundefined notions of liberty, and without any moral principle, they areprepared to enter into the first insurrectionary movement proposed bysome artful and talented leader. The same notion prevailed in the WestIndies half a century since, and many of the planters resisted andpersecuted the benevolent Moravians, who went there to instruct theblacks in the principles and duties of religion. A few of the plantersreasoned justly. They invited these benevolent men on their plantations, and gave them full liberty on the Sabbath, and at other suitableseasons, to instruct their slaves. The happiest effects followed. Onthese plantations, where riot, misrule, and threatened insurrections, had once spread a panic through the colony, order, quietness andsubmission followed. Such would be the effects if the southern planterwould invite the minister of the gospel and the Sunday school teacher tovisit his plantation, allow his slaves to be instructed to read, andeach to be furnished with a copy of the Scriptures. The southern planterhourly lives under the most terrific apprehensions. It is in vain todisguise the fact. As Mr. Randolph once significantly said in Congress, "_when the night bell rings, the mother hugs her infant closer to herbreast_. " Slavery, under any circumstances, is a bitter draught--equallybitter to him who tenders the cup, and to him who drinks it. But in allthe northern slaveholding states, it is comparatively mild. Its conditionwould be much alleviated, and the planter might sleep securely if he wouldabolish his barbarous laws, more congenial with Asiatic despotism thanAmerican republicanism, and provide for his slaves the benefits ofwholesome instruction. Philanthropy and interest unite in their demandsupon every southern planter to provide Sunday school instruction for hisslaves. 

The planting region of the lower Valley furnishes an immense market forthe productions and manufactures of the upper Valley. Indirectly, theLouisiana sugar business is a source of profit to the farmer of Illinoisand Missouri. Pork, beef, corn, corn-meal, flour, potatoes, butter, hay, &c. In vast quantities, go to supply these plantations. In laying intheir stores, the sugar planters usually purchase one barrel of secondor third quality of beef or pork per annum, for each laborer. Largedrafts for sugar mills, engines and boilers, are made upon theCincinnati and Pittsburg iron foundries. Mules and horses are drivenfrom the upper country, or from the Mexican dominions, to keep up thesupply. 

The commerce of the upper country that concentrates at New Orleans isamazing, and every year is rapidly increasing. Sixteen hundred arrivalsof steamboats took place in 1832, and the estimated number in 1835 is2, 300. 

_Farmers. _--In the northern half of the Valley the productions, and themodes of cultivation and living are such as to characterize a largeproportion of the population as farmers. No country on earth has suchfacilities for agriculture. The soil is abundantly fertile, the seasonsordinarily favorable to the growth and maturity of crops, and everyfarmer in a few years, with reasonable industry, becomes comparativelyindependent. Tobacco and hemp are among the staple productions ofKentucky. 

Neat cattle, horses, mules and swine are its stock. Some stock growershave monopolized the smaller farms till they are surrounded with severalthousand acres. Blue grass pastures furnish summer feed, and extensivefields of corn, cut up near the ground, and stacked in the fields, furnish stores for fattening stock in the winter. 

In some counties, raising of stock has taken place of all otherbusiness. The Scioto Valley, and other districts in Ohio, are famous forfine, well fed beef. Thousands of young cattle are purchased by the Ohiograziers, at the close of winter, of the farmers of Illinois andMissouri. The Miami and Whitewater sections of Ohio and Indiana, aboundwith swine. Cincinnati has been the great pork mart of the world. 150, 000 head of hogs have been frequently slaughtered there in a season. About 75, 000 is estimated to be the number slaughtered at that place thepresent season. This apparent falling off in the pork business, atCincinnati, is accounted for by the vast increase of business at otherplaces. Since the opening of the canals in Ohio, many provisionestablishments have been made along their line. Much business of thekind is now done at Terre Haute and other towns on the Wabash, --atMadison, Louisville, and other towns on the Ohio, --at Alton and otherplaces in Illinois. 

The farmers of the West are independent in feeling, plain in dress, simple in manners, frank and hospitable in their dwellings, and soonacquire a competency by moderate labor. Those from Kentucky, Tennessee, or other states south of the Ohio river, have large fields, wellcultivated, and enclosed with strong built rail or worm fences, but theyoften neglect to provide spacious barns and other outhouses for theirgrain, hay and stock. The influence of habit, is powerful. A Kentuckianwould look with contempt upon the low fences of a New-Englander asindicating thriftless habits, while the latter would point at theunsheltered stacks of wheat, and dirty threshing floor of the former, asproof direct of bad economy and wastefulness. 

_Population of the Cities and large Towns. _ The population of westerntowns does not differ essentially from the same class in the Atlanticstates, excepting there is much less division into grades and ranks, less ignorance, low depravity and squalid poverty amongst the poor, andless aristocratic feeling amongst the rich. As there is never any lackof employment for laborers of every description, there is comparativelyno suffering from that cause. And the hospitable habits of the peopleprovide for the sick, infirm and helpless. Doubtless, our_circumstances_ more than any thing else, cause these shades ofdifference. The common mechanic is on a social equality with themerchant, the lawyer, the physician, and the minister. They have sharedin the same fatigues and privations, partook of the same homely fare, inmany instances have fought side by side in defence of their homesagainst the inroads of savages, --are frequently elected to the sameposts of honor, and have accumulated property simultaneously. Manymechanics in the western cities and towns, are the owners of their owndwellings, and of other buildings, which they rent. I have known many awealthy merchant, or professional gentleman occupy on rent, a buildingworth several thousand dollars, the property of some industriousmechanic, who, but a few years previous, was an apprentice lad, orworked at his trade as a journeyman. Any sober, industrious mechanic canplace himself in affluent circumstances, and place his children on anequality with the children of the commercial and professional community, by migrating to any of our new and rising western towns. They will findno occasion here for combinations to sustain their interests, nor meetwith annoyance from gangs of unprincipled foreigners, under theimposing names of "Trades Unions. "

Manufactures of various kinds are carried on in our western cities. Pittsburg has been characterized as the "Birmingham of America. " Themanufactures of iron, machinery and glass, and the building ofsteamboats, are carried on to a great extent. 

Iron and salt, are made in great quantities in Western Pennsylvania, andWestern Virginia. Steamboats are built to a considerable extent atFulton, two miles above Cincinnati, and occasionally at many otherplaces on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Alton offers great facilitiesfor this business. Cotton bagging, bale ropes, and cordage, aremanufactured in Tennessee and Kentucky. The following article from theCovington Enquirer, gives a few items of the industry and enterprise ofKentucky, --of the manufacture of Newport and Covington. Both of thesethriving towns lie at the mouth of the Licking river, the one on theright bank, and the other on the left, and both in direct view ofCincinnati. 

MANUFACTURES IN COVINGTON AND NEWPORT. 

"Founding the calculation upon the actual manufactures of October, andthe known power of their machinery, the Company will the ensuing year, give employment to more than four hundred operatives, and manufacture, 60, 000 lbs. Of Cotton Bagging, 84, 000 do Cotton Yarns, 274, 268 lbs. Bale Rope, 448, 000 do Cordage, 44, 592 yards Linseys, 63, 588 do Cotton Plains, 97, 344 do Kentucky Jeans, 548, 530 do Cotton Bagging and Hemp. 

Estimating Bale Rope and Cotton Bagging at 33 per cent under the priceat which the Company have sold these articles for the last six months, the manufactures of this Company during the ensuing year will amount to$358, 548. 44. Almost all the manufactures at Covington and Newport beingexported to foreign markets, it will result that the annual exports fromthese points will, in round numbers, be from the

 Interior $750, 000 Campbell County 150, 000 Boone County 234, 000 Covington 548, 500 Newport 358, 500 ---------- $2, 041, 000

The Newport Manufacturing Company has depended principally for itssupply of Hemp, on the production of Mason county, of which Maysville isthe market;--this season they have not been able to get a supply atMaysville, and it is a remarkable fact in the history of the Hempmanufactories in Kentucky, that this company, owing to the scarcity andhigh prices of Hemp in Kentucky, _has imported this season_ 354, 201 lbs. _Russia Hemp_. 

Various manufactures are springing up in all the new states, which willbe noticed under their proper heads. 

The number of merchants and traders is very great in the Valley of theMississippi, yet mercantile business is rapidly increasing. --Thousandsof the farmers of the West, are partial traders. They take their ownproduce, in their own flat boats, down the rivers to the market of thelower country. 

_Frontier class of Population. _ The rough, sturdy habits of thebackwoodsmen, living in that plenty which depends on God and nature, have laid the foundation of independent thought and feeling deep in theminds of western people. 

Generally, in all the western settlements, three classes, like the wavesof the ocean, have rolled one after the other. First comes the Pioneer, who depends for the subsistence of his family chiefly upon the naturalgrowth of vegetation, called the "range, " and the proceeds of hunting. His implements of agriculture are rude, chiefly of his own make, and hisefforts directed mainly to a crop of corn, and a "truck patch. " The lastis a rude garden for growing cabbage, beans, corn for roasting ears, cucumbers and potatoes. A log cabin, and occasionally a stable and corncrib, and a field of a dozen acres, the timber girdled or "deadened, "and fenced, are enough for his occupancy. It is quite immaterial whetherhe ever becomes the owner of the soil. He is the occupant for the timebeing, pays no rent, and feels as independent as the "lord of themanor. " With a horse, cow, and one or two breeders of swine, he strikesinto the woods with his family, and becomes the founder of a new county, or perhaps state. He builds his cabin, gathers around him a few otherfamilies of similar taste and habits, and occupies till the range issomewhat subdued, and hunting a little precarious, or, which is morefrequently the case, till neighbors crowd around, roads, bridges andfields annoy him, and he lacks elbow-room. The pre-emption law enableshim to dispose of his cabin and cornfield, to the next class ofemigrants, and, to employ his own figures, he "breaks for the hightimber, "--"clears out for the New Purchase, " or migrates to Arkansas orTexas, to work the same process over. 

The next class of emigrants purchase the lands, add "field to field, "clear out the roads, throw rough bridges over the streams, put up hewnlog houses, with glass windows, and brick or stone chimneys, occasionally plant orchards, build mills, school houses, court houses, &c. , and exhibit the picture and forms of plain, frugal, civilized life. 

Another wave rolls on. The men of capital and enterprise come. The"settler" is ready to sell out, and take the advantage of the rise ofproperty, --push farther into the interior, and become himself, a man ofcapital and enterprise in time. The small village rises to a spacioustown or city, --substantial edifices of brick, extensive fields, orchards, gardens--colleges and churches are seen. Broadcloths, silks, leghorns, crapes, and all the refinements, luxuries, elegancies, frivolities and fashions, are in vogue. Thus wave after wave is rollingwestward--the real _el dorado_ is still farther on. 

A portion of the two first classes remain stationary amidst the generalmovement, improve their habits and condition, and rise in the scale ofsociety. 

The writer has travelled much amongst the first class--the realpioneers. He has lived many years in connexion with the second grade, and now the third wave is sweeping over large districts of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri. Migration has become almost a habit in the west. Hundreds of men can be found, not fifty years of age, who have settledfor the fourth, fifth, or sixth time on a new spot. To sell out andremove only a few hundred miles, makes up a portion of the variety ofbackwoods life and manners. 

But to return to the Frontier class. 

1. _Dress. _--The hunting shirt is universally worn. This is a kind ofloose, open frock, reaching halfway down the thighs, with large sleeves, the body open in front, lapped over, and belted with a leathern girdle, held together with a buckle. The cape is large, and usually fringed withdifferent colored cloth from that of the body. The bosom of this dresssometimes serves as a wallet for a "chunk" of bread, jerk or smoke-driedvenison, and other articles. It is made either of dressed deer skins, linsey, coarse linen, or cotton. The shirt, waistcoat and pantaloons areof similar articles and of the customary form. Wrappers of cloth ordressed skins, called "leggins" are tied round the legs when travelling. Moccasins of deer skins, shoe packs, and rough shoes, the leather tannedand cobbled by the owner, are worn on the feet. 

The females' dress in a coarse gown of cotton, a bonnet of the samestuff, and denominated in the eastern states a "sun-bonnet. " The latteris constantly worn through the day, especially when company is present. The clothing for both sexes is made at home. The wheel and loom arecommon articles of furniture in every cabin. 

2. _Dwellings. _--"Cabin" is the name for a plain, rough log-house, throughout the west. The spot being selected, usually in the timberedland, and near some spring, the first operation of the newly arrivedemigrant is to cut about 40 logs of the proper size and length for asingle cabin, or twice that number for a double one, and haul them tothe spot. A large oak or other suitable timber, of straight grain, andfree from limbs, is selected for clapboards for the roof. These are fourfeet in length, split with a froe six or eight inches wide, and half aninch thick. _Puncheons_ are used for the floor. These are made bysplitting trees about eighteen inches in diameter into slabs, two orthree inches in thickness, and hewn on the upper surface. The door wayis made by cutting out the logs after raising, of a suitable width, andputting upright pieces of timber at the sides. The shutter is made ofclapboards, pinned on cross pieces, hung by wooden hinges, and fastenedby a wooden latch. A similar aperture, but is wider made at one end forthe chimney. The men of the settlement, when notified, collect and raisethe building. Four stout men with axes are placed on the corners tonotch the logs together, while the rest of the company lift them up. After the roof is on the body of the building, it is slightly hewed downboth out and inside. The roof is formed by shortening each end log insuccession till one log forms the comb of the roof. The clapboards areput on so as to cover all cracks, and held down by poles or small logs. 

The chimney is built of sticks of wood, the largest at the bottom, andthe smallest at the top, and laid up with a supply of mud or claymortar. The interstices between the logs are chinked with strips of woodand daubed with mortar both outside and in. A double cabin consists oftwo such buildings with a space of 10 or 12 feet between, over which theroof extends. 

A _log house_, in western parlance, differs from a cabin in the logsbeing hewn on two sides to an equal thickness before raising, --in havinga framed and shingled roof, a brick or stone chimney, windows, tightfloors, and are frequently clapboarded on the outside and plasteredwithin. 

A log house thus finished, costs more than a framed one. Cabins areoften the temporary dwellings of opulent and highly respectablefamilies. 

The axe, auger, froe, drawing knife, broad-axe, and crosscut saw are theonly tools required in constructing these rude edifices;--sometimes theaxe and auger only are employed. Not a nail or pane of glass is needed. Cabins are by no means as wretched for residences as their name imports. 

They are often roomy, comfortable and neat. If one is not sufficient toaccommodate the family, another is added, and another until sufficientroom is obtained. 

3. _Furniture and mode of living. _--The genuine backwoodsman makeshimself and family comfortable and contented where those, unaccustomedto his mode of life, would live in unavailing regret, or make a thousandawkward apologies on the visit of a neighbor or traveller. A table ismade of a split slab and supported by four round legs. Clapboardssupported by pins stuck in the logs answer for shelves for tablefurniture. The bedstead is often made in the corner of the room bysticks placed in the logs, supported at the outward corner by a post, onwhich clapboards are laid, the ends of which enter the wall between thelogs, and which support the bedding. On the arrival of travellers orvisiters, the bed clothing is shared with them, being spread on thepuncheon floor that the feet may project towards the fire. Many a nighthas the writer passed in this manner, after a fatiguing day's ride, andreposed more comfortably than on a bed of down in a spacious mansion. All the family of both sexes, with all the strangers who arrive, oftenlodge in the same room. In that case the under garments are never takenoff, and no consciousness of impropriety or indelicacy of feeling ismanifested. A few pins stuck in the wall of the cabin display thedresses of the women and the hunting shirts of the men. Two small forksor bucks-horns fastened to a joist are indispensable articles for thesupport of the rifle. A loose floor of clapboards, and supported byround poles, is thrown over head for a loft which furnishes a place tothrow any articles not immediately wanted, and is frequently used for alodging place for the younger branches of the family. A ladder plantedin the corner behind the door answers the purpose of stairs. 

The necessary table and kitchen furniture are a few pewter dishes andspoons, knives and forks, (for which however, the common hunting knifeis often a substitute, ) tin cups for coffee or milk, a water pail and asmall gourd or calabash for water, with a pot and iron Dutch oven, constitute the chief articles. Add to these a tray for wetting up mealfor corn bread, a coffee pot and set of cups and saucers, a set ofcommon plates, and the cabin is furnished. The hominy mortar and handmill are in use in all frontier settlements. The first consists of ablock of wood with an excavation burned at one end and scraped out withan iron tool, wide at top and narrow at the bottom that the action ofthe pestle may operate to the best advantage. Sometimes a stump of alarge tree is excavated while in its natural position. An elastic pole, 20 or 30 feet in length, with the large end fastened under the groundlog of the cabin, and the other elevated 10 or 15 feet and supported bytwo forks, to which a pestle 5 or 6 inches in diameter and 8 or 10 feetlong is fixed on the elevated end by a large mortice, and a pin putthrough its lower end so that two persons can work it in conjunction. This is much used for pounding corn. A very simple instrument to answerthe same purpose, is a circular piece of tin, perforated, and attachedto a piece of wood like a grater, on which the ears of corn are rubbedfor meal. The hand mill is in the same form as that used in Judea in thetime of our Savior. Two circular stones, about 18 inches in diameterconstructed like ordinary mill stones, with a staff let into the runneror upper stone near its outer edge, with the upper end inserted in ajoist or board over head, and turned by the hands of two persons whileone feeds it with corn. Horse mills follow the mortar and hand mill inthe scale of improvement. They are constructed variously. A _hand_ millis the most simple. A large upright post is placed on a gudgeon, withshafts extending horizontally 15 or 20 feet. Around the ends of these isa band of raw hide twisted, which passes around the trundle head andturns the spindle and communicates motion to the stone. A _cog_ mill isformed by constructing a rim with cogs upon the shafts, and a trundlehead to correspond. Each person furnishes his own horses to turn themill, performs his own grinding, and pays toll to the owner for use ofthe mill. Mills with the wheel on an inclined plane, and carried by oxenstanding on the wheel, are much in use in those sections where waterpower is not convenient, but these indicate an advance to the secondgrade of society. 

Instead of bolting cloths, the frontier people use a sieve or as calledhere, a "search. " This is made from a deer skin prepared to resembleparchment, stretched on a hoop and perforated full of holes with a hotwire. 

Every backwoodsman carries on all occasions, the means of furnishing hismeat. The rifle, bullet pouch and horn, hunting knife, horse and dog arehis constant companions when from home, and woe be to the wolf, bear, deer or turkey that comes within one hundred and fifty yards of histrail. 

With the first emigration there are few mechanics; hence every settlerbecomes expert in supplying his own necessaries. Besides clearing land, building cabins, and making fences, he stocks his own plough, repairshis wagon and his harness, tans his own leather, makes his shoes, tables, bedsteads, stools or seats, trays and a hundred other articles. These may be rudely constructed, but they answer his purpose very well. 

The following extracts from the graphic "SKETCHES OF THE WEST, "by James Hall, Esq. Completes this extended picture of backwoodsmanners. 

"The traveller, accustomed to different modes of life, is struck withthe rude and uncomfortable appearance of every thing about thispeople, --the rudeness of their habitations, the carelessness of theiragriculture, the unsightly coarseness of all their implements andfurniture, the unambitious homeliness of all their goods and chattels, except the axe, the rifle, and the horse--these being invariably thebest and handsomest which their means enable them to procure. But he ismistaken in supposing them indolent or improvident; and is little awarehow much ingenuity and toil have been exerted in procuring the fewcomforts which they possess, in a country without arts, mechanics, money, or commercial intercourse. 

"The backwoodsman has many substantial enjoyments. After the fatigue ofhis journey, and a short season of privation and danger, he findshimself surrounded with plenty. His cattle, hogs, and poultry, supplyhis table with meat; the forest abounds in game; the fertile soil yieldsabundant crops; he has, of course, bread, milk, and butter; the riversfurnish fish, and the woods honey. For these various articles, there is, at first, no market, and the farmer acquires the generous habit ofspreading them profusely on his table, and giving them freely to ahungry traveller and an indigent neighbor. 

"Hospitality and kindness are among the virtues of the first settlers. Exposed to common dangers and toils, they become united by the closestties of social intercourse. Accustomed to arm in each other's defence, to aid in each other's labor, to assist in the affectionate duty ofnursing the sick, and the mournful office of burying the dead, the bestaffections of the heart are kept in constant exercise; and there is, perhaps, no class of men in our country, who obey the calls ofbenevolence, with such cheerful promptness, or with so liberal asacrifice of personal convenience. 

"We read marvellous stories of the ferocity of western men. The name ofKentuckian is constantly associated with the idea of fighting, dirking, and gouging. The people of whom we are now writing do not deserve thischaracter. They live together in great harmony, with little contentionand less litigation. The backwoodsmen are a generous and placable race. They are bold and impetuous; and when differences do arise among them, they are more apt to give vent to their resentment at once, than tobrood over their wrongs, or to seek legal redress. But this conduct isproductive of harmony; for men are always more guarded in theirdeportment to each other, and more cautious of giving offence, when theyknow that the insult will be quickly felt, and instantly resented, thanwhen the consequences of an offensive action are doubtful, and theretaliation distant. We have no evidence that the pioneers of Kentuckywere quarrelsome or cruel; and an intimate acquaintance with the samerace, at a later period, has led the writer to the conclusion, that theyare a humane people; bold and daring, when opposed to an enemy, butamiable in their intercourse with each other and with strangers, andhabitually inclined to peace. "

In morals and the essential principles of religion, this class of peopleare by no means so defective as many imagine. The writer has repeatedlybeen in settlements and districts beyond the pale of civil and criminallaw, where the people are a "law unto themselves, " where courts, lawyers, sheriffs, and constables existed not, and yet has seen as muchquiet and order, and more honesty in paying just debts, than where legalrestraints operated in all their force. The turpitude of vice and themajesty of virtue, were as apparent as in older settlements. Industry, in laboring or hunting, bravery in war, candor, honesty, and hospitalitywere rewarded with the confidence and honor of the people. Regulatingparties would exist, and thieves, rogues and counterfeiters were sure toreceive a striped Jacket "worked nineteen to the dozen, " and by thismode of operation, induced to "clear out;" but truth, uprightness, honesty and sincerity are always respected. Many of the frontier classare _illiterate_, but they are by no means _ignorant_. They are ashrewd, observing, thinking people. They may not have learned the blackmarks in books, but they have studied _men and things_, and have a quickinsight into human nature. They are not inattentive to religion, thoughtheir opportunities of religious instruction are few, compared with oldcountries. They have prejudices and fears about many of the organizedbenevolent societies of the present age, yet there are no people morereadily disposed to attend religious meetings, and whose hearts are morereadily affected with the gospel than the backwoods people; and as largea proportion are orderly professors of religion as in any part of theUnion. Ministers of the gospel and Missionaries, who can suit themselvesto the circumstances and habits of frontier people, --who like Paul, can"become all things to all men, "--find pleasant and interesting fields oflabor on all our frontiers. But let such persons show fastidiousness, affect superior intelligence and virtue, catechise the people for theirplainness and simplicity of manners, and draw invidious comparisons, andthey are sure to be "used up, " or left without hearers, to deplore the"dark clouds" of ignorance and prejudice in the west. 

_Hunters and Trappers. _ Entirely beyond the boundaries of civilizationare many hundreds of a unique class, distinguished by the terms Huntersand Trappers. They are engaged in hunting buffalo and other wild game, and trapping for beaver. They are found upon the vast prairies of theWest and Northwest, --in all the defiles and along the streams of theRocky mountains, and in various parts of the Oregon Territory, to thepeninsula of California. They are an enterprising and erratic race fromalmost every state, and are usually in the employ of persons of capitaland enterprise, and who are concerned in the fur and peltry business. Expeditions for one, two, or three years, are fitted out from St. Louis, or some commercial point, consisting of companies, who ascend the riversto the regions of fur. The hunters and trappers, receive a proportion ofthe profits of the expedition. Some become so enamored with thiswandering and exposed life as to lose all desire of returning to theabodes of civilization, and remain for the rest of their lives in theAmerican deserts. There are individuals, who are graduates of colleges, and who once stood high in the circles of refinement and taste, thathave passed more than twenty years amongst the roaming tribes of theRocky mountains, or on the western slope, till they have apparently lostall feelings towards civilized life. They have afforded an interestingbut melancholy example of the tendencies of human nature towards thedegraded state of savages. The improvement of the species is a slow andlaborious process, --the deterioration is rapid, and requires only to bedivested of restraint, and left to its own unaided tendencies. Manyothers have returned to the habits of civilization, and some withfortunes made from the woods and prairies. 

_Boatmen. _ These are the fresh water sailors of the West, with much ofthe light hearted, reckless character of the sons of the Ocean, including peculiar shades of their own. Before the introduction ofSteamboats on the western waters, its immense commerce was carried on bymeans of _keel boats_, and _barges_. The former is much in the shape ofa canal boat, long, slim-built, sharp at each end, and propelled bysetting poles and the cordelle or long rope. The barge is longer, andhas a bow and stern. Both are calculated to ascend streams but by a veryslow process. Each boat would require from ten to thirty hands, according to its size. A number of these boats frequently sailed incompany. The boatmen were proverbially lawless at every town andlanding, and indulged without restraint in every species of dissipation, debauchery and excess. But this race has become reformed, or nearlyextinct;--yes, reformed by the mighty power of steam. A steamboat, withhalf the crew of a barge or keel, will carry ten times the burden, andperform six or eight trips in the time it took a keel boat to make onevoyage. Thousands of flat boats, or "broad horns, " as they are called, pass _down_ the rivers with the produce of the country, which aremanaged by the farmers of the West, but never return up stream. Theyare sold for lumber, and the owners, after disposing of the cargo, return by steam. The number of boatmen on the western waters is not onlygreatly reduced, but those that remain are fast losing their originalcharacter. 

CHAPTER V. 

PUBLIC LANDS. 

System of Surveys. --Meridian and Base Lines. --Townships. --Diagram of atownship surveyed into Sections. --Land Districts and Offices. --Pre-emption rights. --Military Bounty Lands. --Taxes. --Valuable Tractsof country unsettled. 

In all the new states and territories, the lands which are owned by thegeneral government, are surveyed and sold under one general system. Several offices, each under the direction of a surveyor general, havebeen established by acts of Congress, and districts, embracing one ormore states, assigned them. The office for the surveys of all publiclands in Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, and the Wisconsin country is locatedat Cincinnati. The one including the states of Illinois and Missouri, and the territory of Arkansas is at St. Louis. Deputy surveyors areemployed to do the work at a stipulated rate per mile, generally fromthree to four dollars, who employ chain bearers, an axe, and flag man, and a camp-keeper. They are exposed to great fatigue and hardship, spending two or three months at a time in the woods and prairies, withslight, moveable camps for shelter. 

In the surveys, "_meridian_" lines are first established, running northfrom the mouth of some noted river. These are intersected with "_base_"lines. 

There are five principal meridians in the land surveys in the west. 

The "_First Principal Meridian_" is a line due north from the mouth ofthe Miami. 

The "_Second Principal Meridian_" is a line due north from the mouth ofLittle Blue river, in Indiana. 

The "_Third Principal Meridian_" is a line due north from the mouth ofthe Ohio. 

The "_Fourth Principal Meridian_" is a line due north from the mouth ofthe Illinois. 

The "_Fifth Principal Meridian_" is a line due north from the mouth ofthe Arkansas. Another Meridian is used for Michigan, which passesthrough the central part of the state. Its base line extends from aboutthe middle of lake St. Clair, across the state west to lake Michigan. Each of these meridians has its own base line. 

The surveys connected with the third and fourth meridians, and a smallportion of the second, embrace the state of Illinois. 

The base line for both the second and third principal meridianscommences at Diamond Island, in Ohio, opposite Indiana, and runs duewest till it strikes the Mississippi, a few miles below St. Louis. 

All the _townships_ in Illinois, south and east of the Illinois river, are numbered from this base line either north or south. 

The third principal meridian terminates with the northern boundary ofthe state. 

The fourth principal meridian commences in in the centre of the channel, and at the mouth of the Illinois river, but immediately crosses to the_east_ shore, and passes up on that side, (and at one place nearlyfourteen miles distant) to a point in the channel of the river, seventy-two miles from its mouth. Here its base line commences andextends across the peninsula to the Mississippi, a short distance aboveQuincy. The fourth principal meridian is continued northward through themilitary tract, and across Rock river, to a curve in the Mississippi atthe upper rapids, in township eighteen north, and about twelve orfifteen miles above Rock Island. It here crosses and passes up the_west_ side of the Mississippi river fifty-three miles, and recrossesinto Illinois, and passes through the town of Galena to the northernboundary of the state. It is thence continued to the Wisconsin river andmade the principal meridian for the surveys of the territory, while thenorthern boundary line of the state is constituted its base line forthat region. 

Having formed a principal meridian with its corresponding base line, for a district of country, the next operation of the surveyor is todivide this into tracts of six miles square, called "_townships_. "

In numbering the townships _east_ or _west_ from a principal meridian, they are called "_ranges_, " meaning a range of townships; but innumbering _north_ or _south_ from a base line, they are called"_townships_. " Thus a tract of land is said to be situated in townshipfour north in range three east, from the third principal meridian; or asthe case may be. 

Townships are subdivided into square miles, or tracts of 640 acres each, called "_sections_. " If near timber, trees are marked and numbered withthe section, township, and range, near each sectional corner. If in alarge prairie, a mound is raised to designate the corner, and a billetof charred wood buried, if no rock is near. Sections are divided intohalves by a line north and south, and into quarters by a transverseline. In sales under certain conditions, quarters are sold in equalsubdivisions of forty acres each, at one dollar and twenty-five centsper acre. Any person, whether a native born citizen, or a foreigner, maypurchase forty acres of the richest soil, and receive an indisputabletitle, for fifty dollars. 

_Ranges_ are townships counted either east or west from meridians. 

_Townships_ are counted either north or south from their respective baselines. 

_Fractions_, are parts of quarter sections intersected by streams orconfirmed claims. 

The parts of townships, sections, quarters, &c. Made at the lines ofeither townships or meridians are called _excesses_ or _deficiencies_. 

_Sections_, or miles square are numbered, beginning in the northeastcorner of the township, progressively west to the range line, and thenprogressively east to the range line, alternately, terminating at thesoutheast corner of the township, from one to thirty-six, as in thefollowing diagram:

 +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | | | | | | | | 6 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 | | | | | | | | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | | | | | | | | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | | | | | | | | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | | | | | | | | 18 | 17 | 16[A]| 15 | 14 | 13 | | | | | | | | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | | | | | | | | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | | | | | | | | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | | | | | | | | 30 | 29 | 28 | 27 | 26 | 25 | | | | | | | | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | | | | | | | | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | | | | | | | | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ [A] Appropriated for schools in the township. 

I have been thus particular in this account of the surveys of publiclands, to exhibit the simplicity of a system, that to strangers, unacquainted with the method of numbering the sections, and the varioussubdivisions, appears perplexing and confused. 

All the lands of Congress owned in Ohio have been surveyed, and with theexceptions of some Indian reservations, have been brought into market. In Indiana, all the lands purchased of the Indians have been surveyed, and with the exception of about ninety townships and fractionaltownships, have been offered for sale. These, amounting to about twomillions of acres, will be offered for sale the present year. InMichigan, nearly all the ceded lands have been surveyed and brought intomarket. The unsurveyed portion is situated in the neighborhood ofSaginaw bay; a part of which may be ready for market within the currentyear. 

In the Wisconsin Territory, west of lake Michigan, all the lands in theWisconsin district, which lies between the state of Illinois and theWisconsin river, have been surveyed; and in addition to the landsalready offered for sale in the Green Bay district, about 65 townships, and fractional townships, have been surveyed and are ready for market. The surveys of the whole country west of lake Michigan and south of theWisconsin river, in Illinois and Wisconsin territory, will soon besurveyed and in market. Here are many millions of the finest lands onearth, lying along the Des Pleines, Fox, and Rock rivers, and theirtributaries, well watered, rich soil, a healthy atmosphere, andfacilities to market. A temporary scarcity of timber in some parts ofthis region will retard settlements, for a time; but this difficultywill be obviated, by the rapidity with which prairie land turns to atimbered region, wherever, by contiguous settlements, the wild grassbecomes subdued, and by the discovery of coal beds. Much of it is amineral region. In Illinois, the surveys are now completed in theDanville district, and in the southern part of the Chicago district. They are nearly completed along Rock river and the Mississippi. Theunsurveyed portion is along Fox river, Des Pleines and the shore of lakeMichigan, in the north-eastern part of the state. Emigrants, however, donot wait for surveys and sales. They are settling over this fine portionof the state, in anticipation of purchases. In Missouri, besides theformer surveys, the exterior lines of 138 townships, and the subdivisioninto sections and quarters, 30 townships in the northern part of thestate, and contracts for running the exterior lines of 189 townships onthe waters of the Osage and Grand rivers have been made. A large portionof this state is now surveyed and in market. Surveys are progressing inArkansas, and large bodies of land are proclaimed for sale in thatdistrict. 

I have no data before me that will enable me definitely to show theamount of public lands now remaining unsold, in each land officedistrict. In another place I have already given an estimate of theamount of public lands, within the organized states and territories, remaining unsold, compared with the amount sold in past years. 

The following table exhibits the number of acres sold in the districtsembraced more immediately within the range of this Guide, for 1834, andthe three first quarters of 1835, with the names of each district ineach state. It is constructed from the Report of the Commissioner of theGeneral Land Office to the Treasury Department, December 5th, 1835. Thesales of the last quarter of 1835, in Illinois, and probably in theother states, greatly exceeded either the other quarters, and which willbe exhibited in the annual report of the Commissioner in December, 1836. 

 _Statement of the amount of Public Lands, sold at the several Land Offices in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri, and Arkansas, in 1834. _

 =====================+============== | _Acres and LAND OFFICES. | hundredths_ ---------------------+-------------- OHIO. 

 Marietta district, 11, 999. 52 Zanesville do 33, 877. 23 Steubenville, do 4, 349. 19 Chillicothe, do 21, 309. 32 Cincinnati, do 27, 369. 52 Wooster, do 9, 448. 77 Wapaghkonetta do 125, 417. 13 Bucyrus do 245, 078. 56 ---------- Total for the State, 478, 847. 24

 INDIANA. 

 Jeffersonville district. 67, 826. 11 Vincennes do 56, 765. 80 Indianopolis do 204, 526. 63 Crawfordsville do 161, 477. 87 Fort Wayne do 96, 350. 30 La Porte do 86, 709. 73 ---------- Total for the State, 673, 656. 44

 ILLINOIS. 

 Shawneetown district. 6, 904. 24 Kaskaskia do 15, 196. 52 Edwardsville do 124, 302. 19 Vandalia do 20, 207. 61 Palestine do 22, 135. 69 Springfield do 66, 804. 25 Danville do 62, 331. 38 Quincy do 36, 131. 59 ---------- Total for the State, 354, 013. 47

 MICHIGAN TERRITORY

 Detroit district. 136, 410. 69 Monroe do 233, 768. 30 White Pigeon Prairie } Bronson do } 128, 244. 47 ---------- Total for the Territory 498, 423. 46

 WISCONSIN TERRITORY. 

 Mineral Point dist. 14, 336. 67

 MISSOURI. 

 St. Louis district. 43, 634. 68 Fayette do 71, 049. 74 Palmyra do 76, 241. 35 Jackson do 18, 882. 11 Lexington do 43, 983. 80 ---------- Total for the State, 253, 791. 70

 ARKANSAS TERRITORY. 

 Batesville district. 8, 051. 31 Little Rock do 25, 799. 74 Washington do 65, 145. 88 Fayetteville do 24, 514. 94 Helena do 26, 244. 59 ---------- Total for the Territory 149, 756. 46

 _Statement of the amount of Public Lands, sold at the several Land Offices in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri, and Arkansas, from January 1st, to September 30th, 1835, including nine months. _

 =====================+============= | _Acres and LAND OFFICES. | hundredths_ ---------------------+-------------

 OHIO. 

 Marietta Dist. 11, 012. 98 Zanesville do 42, 978. 36 Steubenville do 3, 649. 29 Chillicothe do 12, 586. 87 Cincinnati do 20, 105. 76 Wooster do 5, 157. 68 Wapaghkonetta} and Lima, } do 103, 020. 23 Bucyrus do 154, 706. 63 ---------- Total for the State, 353, 217. 80

 INDIANA. 

 Jeffersonville Dist. 44, 634. 81 Vincennes do 70, 903. 62 Indianapolis do 158, 786. 68 Crawfordsville do 108, 055. 22 Fort Wayne do 148, 864. 28 La Porte do 227, 702. 35 ---------- Total for the State, 758, 946. 96

 ILLINOIS. 

 Shawneetown Dist. 5, 754. 08 Kaskaskia do 13, 814. 38 Edwardsville do 123, 638. 07 Vandalia do 16, 253. 46 Palestine do 14, 088. 01 Springfield do 316, 966. 70 Danville do 94, 491. 35 Quincy do [A]40, 274. 58 Galena do [B]262, 152. 73 Chicago do 333, 405. 73 ------------ Total for the State, 1, 220, 838. 76

 MICHIGAN. 

 Detroit Dist. 213, 763. 57 Brownson do 400, 722. 48 Monroe do 446, 631. 61 ------------ Total for Michigan} proper, } 1, 061, 127. 66

 WISCONSIN. 

 Mineral Point Dist. 67, 052. 55 Green Bay do 68, 365. 53 ---------- Total for Wisconsin} Territory, } 135, 418. 08

 MISSOURI. 

 St. Louis Dist. 32, 914. 57 Fayette do 55, 839. 58 Palmyra do 101, 018. 00 Jackson do 28, 995. 19 Lexington do 42, 801. 45 Springfield do 320. 00 ---------- Total for the State, 261, 888. 79

 ARKANSAS. 

 Batesville Dist. 2, 021. 22 Little Rock do 22, 291. 92 Washington do 43, 360. 81 Fayetteville do 8, 723. 72 Helena do 312, 169. 09 ---------- Total for the Territory 388, 566. 76

 [A] Returns only to May 31st. 

 [B] Returns only to July 31st. Since those periods, sales at these Offices have been immense

The reader will perceive that the sales of the three first quarters of1835, almost doubled those of the whole year of 1834. The inquiry wasoften made of the writer, while travelling in the Atlantic states in thesummer of 1835, whether there was still opportunity for emigrants topurchase public lands in Indiana, Illinois, &c. Where land offices hadbeen opened for sale of lands many years. He found almost everywhere, wrong notions prevailing. The people were not aware of the immenseextent of the public domain now in market, and ready to be sold at _onedollar and twenty-five cents per acre_, and even in as small tracts asforty acres. Take for example, the Edwardsville district, in which thewriter resides. It extends south to the base line, east to the thirdprincipal meridian, north to the line that separates townships 13 and 14north, and west to the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, and embraces allthe counties of Madison, Clinton, Bond, Montgomery, Macouper, andGreene, a tier of townships on the south side of Morgan and Sangamon, five and a half townships from Fayette, and about half of St. Claircounty. The lands for a part of this district have been in market for 18or 20 years;--it contains some of the oldest American settlements in thestate, and has also a number of confined claims never offered for sale. And yet the receiver of this office informed me in November last, thathe had just made returns of all the lands sold in this district, andthey amounted to just _one third_ of the whole quantity. Every man, therefore, may take it for granted that there will be land enough inmarket in all the new states, for his use, during the presentgeneration. These are facts that should be known to all classes. Themania of land speculation and of monopolists would soon subside, werethose concerned to sit down coolly, and after ascertaining the amount ofpublic lands now in market, with the vast additional quantity that mustsoon come into market, use a few figures in common arithmetic, with theprobable amount of emigration, and ascertain the probable extent of thedemand for this article at any future period. 

The following information is necessary for those who are not acquaintedwith our land system. 

In each land office there are a Register and Receiver, appointed by thePresident and Senate for the term of four years, and paid by thegovernment. 

After being surveyed, the land, by proclamation of the President, isoffered for sale at public auction by half quarter sections, or tractsof 80 acres. If no one bids for it at one dollar and twenty-five centsper acre, or more, it is subject to private entry at any time after, upon payment of $1. 25 cents per acre at the time of entry. _No credit inany case is allowed. _

In many cases, Congress, by special statute, has granted to actualsettlers, pre-emption rights, where settlements and improvements havebeen made on public lands previous to public sale. 

_Pre-emption rights_ confer the privilege only of purchasing the tractcontaining improvements at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, bythe possessor, without the risk of a public sale. 

In Illinois and several other western states, all lands purchased of thegeneral government, are exempted from taxation for five years afterpurchase. 

_Military Bounty lands. _--These lands were surveyed and appropriated asbounties to the soldiers in the war with Great Britain in 1812-'15, toencourage enlistments. The selections were made in Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas. The Bounty lands of Illinois lie between the Illinois andMississippi rivers, in the counties of Calhoun, Pike, Adams, Schuyler, Macdonough, Warren, Mercer, Knox, Henry, Fulton, Peoria, and Putnam. Outof five millions of acres, 3, 500, 000 were selected, including aboutthree-fifths of this tract. The remainder is disposed of in the mannerof other public lands. The disposition of this fine country for militarybounties has much retarded its settlement. It was a short-sighted andmistaken policy of government that dictated this measure. Most of thetitles have long since departed from the soldiers for whose benefit thedonations were made. Many thousand quarter sections have been sold fortaxes by the state, have fallen into the hands of monopolists, and arenow past redemption. The Bounty lands in Missouri, lie on the waters ofChariton and Grand rivers, north side of the Missouri river and in thecounties of Chariton, Randolph, Carroll, and Ray, and include half amillion of acres. The tract is generally fertile, undulating, a mixtureof timber and prairie, but not as well watered as desirable. With thebounty lands of Arkansas I am not well acquainted. Their generalcharacter is good, and some tracts are rich cotton lands. 

_Taxes. _--Lands bought of the U. S. Government are exempted fromtaxation for five years after sale. All other lands owned bynon-residents, equally with those of residents, are subject to taxationannually, either for state, or county purposes, or both. The mode andamount varies in each state. If not paid when due, costs are added, thelands sold, subject to redemption within a limited period;--generallytwo years. Every non-resident landholder should employ an agent withinthe state where his land lies, to look after it and pay his taxes, if hewould not suffer the loss of his land. 

CHAPTER VI. 

ABORIGINES. 

Conjecture respecting their former numbers and condition. Present numberand state. --Indian Territory appropriated as their permanentresidence. --Plan and operations of the U. S. Government. --Missionaryefforts and stations. Monuments and Antiquities. 

The idea is entertained, that the Valley of the Mississippi, was oncedensely populated by aborigines;--that here were extensivenations, --that the bones of many millions lie mouldering under our feet. It has become a common theory, that previous to the settlement of thecountry by people of European descent, there were _two_ successive racesof men, quite distinct from each other;--that the first race, by somesingular fatality, became exterminated, leaving no traditionary accountof their existence. And the second race, the ancestors of the existingrace of Indians, are supposed to have been once, far more numerous thanthe present white population of the Valley. 

Some parts of Mexico and South America, were found to be populous uponthe first visits of the Spaniards; but I do not find satisfactoryevidence that population was ever dense, in any part of the territorythat now constitutes our Republic. Mr. Atwater supposes, from the moundsin Ohio, the Indian population far exceeded 700, 000, at one time in thatdistrict. Mr. Flint says, "If we can infer nothing else from the mounds, we can clearly infer, that this country once had its millions. " Hence, aprincipal argument assigned for the populousness of this country is, themillions buried in these tumuli, the bones of which, in a tolerablestate of preservation, are supposed to be exhibited upon excavation. Thewriter has witnessed the opening of many of these mounds, and has seenthe fragments of an occasional skeleton, found _near the surface_. Without stopping here to enter upon a disquisition on the hypothesisassumed, that these mounds, as they are termed, are as much the resultsof natural causes, as any other prominences on the surface of the globe:I will only remark, that it is a fact well known to frontier men, thatthe Indians have been in the habit of burying their dead on these ridgesand hillocks, and that in our light, spongy soil, the skeleton decayssurprisingly fast. This is not the place to exhibit the necessary data, that have led to the conviction, that not a human skeleton now exists inall the western Valley, (excepting in nitrous caves, ) that was depositedin the earth before the discovery of the New World, by Columbus. 

The opinion that this Valley was once densely populous, is sustainedfrom the supposed military works, distributed through the West. Thissubject, as well as that of mounds, wants re-examination. Probably, halfa dozen enclosures, in a rude form, might have been used for militarydefence. The capabilities of the country to sustain a dense population, has been used to support the position, that it must have been oncedensely populated. This argues nothing without vestiges of agricultureand the arts. With the exception of a few small patches, around theIndian villages, for corn and pulse, the whole land was an unbrokenwilderness. Strangers to the subject have imagined that our westernprairies must once have been subdued by the hand of cultivation, becausedenuded of timber. Those who have long lived on them, have the evidencesof observation, and their senses, to guide them. They know that theearth will not produce timber, while the surface is covered with a firmgrassy sward, and that timber will spring up, as soon as thisobstruction is removed. 

To all these theories, of the former density of the aboriginalpopulation of the Valley, I oppose, first, the fact that but a scatteredand erratic population was found here, on the arrival of theEuropeans, --that the people were rude savages, subsisting chiefly byhunting, and that no savage people ever became populous, --that from timeimmemorial, the different tribes had been continually at war with eachother, --that but a few years before the French explored it, theIroquois, or Five nations, conquered all the country to the Mississippi, which they could not have done had it been populous, and that Kentucky, one of the finest portions of the Valley, was not inhabited by anypeople, but the common hunting and fighting grounds of both the northernand southern Indians, and hence called by them, _Kentuckee_, or the"Bloody ground. "[7]

That the Indian character has deteriorated, and the numbers of eachtribe greatly lessened by contact with Europeans and their descendants, is not questioned; but many of the descriptions of the comforts andhappiness of savage life and manners, before their country was possessedby the latter, are the exaggerated and glowing descriptions of poeticfancy. Evidence enough can be had to show that they were degraded andwretched, engaged in petty exterminating wars with each other, oftentimes in a state of starvation, and leading a roving, indolent andmiserable existence. Their government was anarchy. --Properly speaking, civil government had never existed amongst them. They had no executive, or judiciary power, and their legislation was the result of theircouncils held by aged and experienced men. It had no stronger claim uponthe obedience of the people than advice. 

In Mexico, civilization had made progress, and there were populous townsand cities, and edifices for religious and other purposes. With theexception of some very rude structures, the ruins of which yet remain, and which upon too slight grounds, have been mistaken for militaryworks, nothing is left as marks of the enterprise of the feeble bands ofIndians of this Valley. Their implements, utensils, weapons of war, andwater-craft, were of the most rude and simple construction, and yetprepared with great labor. Those who have written upon Indian manners, without personal and long acquaintance with their circumstances, havemade extravagant blunders. The historian of America, Dr. Robertson, seems to suppose that the Indians cut down large trees, and dug outcanoes with stone hatchets, --and that they cleared the timber from theirsmall fields, by the same tedious process. Their stone axes or hatchets, were never used for _cutting_, but only for splitting and pounding. Theyburned down and hollowed out trees by fire, for canoes, and neverchopped off the timber, but only deadened it, in clearing land. Thecondition of depraved man, unimproved by habits of civilization, andunblest with the influences and consolations of the gospel, is pitiablein the extreme. Such was the character and condition of the "Red skin, "before his land was visited by the "Pale faces. " I have often seen theaboriginal man in all his primeval wildness, when he first came incontact with the evils and benefits of civilization, --have admired hisnoble form and lofty bearing, --listened to his untutored and yetpowerful eloquence, and yet have found in him the same humbling andmelancholy proofs of his wretchedness and want, as is found in theremnants on our borders. 

The introduction of ardent spirits, and of several diseases, are theevils furnished the Indian race, by contact with the whites, while inother respects their condition has been improved. 

From the second number of the "_Annual Register of Indian Affairs, within the Indian (or western) Territory_, " just published by the Rev. Isaac McCoy, the following particulars have been chiefly gleaned:

Mr. McCoy has been devoted to the work of Indian reform for almosttwenty years, first in Indiana, then in Michigan, and latterly in theIndian territory, west of Missouri and Arkansas. He is not onlyintimately acquainted with the peculiar circumstances of thisunfortunate race, and with the country selected as their futureresidence by the government, but is ardently and laboriously engaged fortheir welfare. 

INDIAN TERRITORY. 

The Indian territory lies west and immediately adjacent to Missouri andArkansas. It is about 600 miles long from north to south, extending fromthe Missouri river to the Red river, and running westwardly as far asthe country is habitable, which is estimated to be about 200 miles. Thealmost destitution of timber, with extensive deserts, renders most ofthe country from this territory to the Rocky mountains uninhabitable. The dreams indulged by many, that the wave of white population is tomove onward without any resisting barrier, till it reaches thesemountains, and even overleap them to the Pacific ocean, will never berealized. Providence has thrown a desert of several hundred miles inextent, as an opposing barrier. 

As very contradictory accounts have gone abroad, prejudicial to thecharacter of the country selected for the Indians, it becomes necessaryto describe it with some particularity. The following, from Mr. McCoy(if it needed any additional support to its correctness, ) iscorroborated by the statements of many disinterested persons. 

"There is a striking similarity between all parts of this territory. Inits general character, it is high and undulating, rather level thanhilly; though small portions partly deserve the latter appellation. Thesoil is generally very fertile. It is thought that in no part of theworld, so extensive a region of rich soil has been discovered as inthis, of which the Indian territory is a central position. It is wateredby numerous rivers, creeks and rivulets. Its waters pass through iteastwardly, none of which are favorable to navigation. There is lessmarshy and stagnant water in it than is usual in the western country. The atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate precisely such as isdesirable, being about the same as that inhabited by the Indians on theeast of the Mississippi. It contains much mineral coal and salt water, some lead, and some iron ore. Timber is too scarce, and this is aserious defect, but one which time will remedy, as has been demonstratedby the growth of timber in prairie countries which have been settled, where the grazing of stock, by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders the annual fires less destructive to the growth of wood. Theprairie (i. E. , land destitute of wood) is covered with grass, much ofwhich is of suitable length for the scythe. "

The Chocktaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Osages, Kanzaus and Delawares, areentitled to lands westward of this territory for hunting grounds; someto the western boundary of the United States, others to the Rockymountains. 

Mr. McCoy estimates the number of inhabitants of this territory at47, 733. 

 INDIGENOUS TRIBES. 

 Osage, about 5, 510 Kanzau, " 1, 684 Ottoe and Missourias, 1, 600 O'Mahaus, 1, 400 Pawnees, four tribes, 10, 000 Puncahs, about 800 Quapaws, " 450 ------ 21, 444

 EMIGRANT TRIBES. 

 Chocktaw, about 15, 000 Cherokee, " 4, 000 Creek, " 3, 600 Seneca, Shawanoe of Neosho, 462 Wea, about 225 Piankeshau, 119 Peoria and Kaskaskias, 135 Ottawa, 81 Shawanoe of Kanzau river, 764 Delaware, 856 Kickapoo, 603 Putawatomie, 444 ------ Emigrants, 26, 289 Indigenous, 21, 444 ------ Total, 47, 733

The estimate of the Chocktaws include about 400 negro slaves, --that ofthe Cherokees 500, and that of the Creeks about 450 slaves. 

_Chocktaws. _ Their country adjoins Red river and the Province of Texason the south, Arkansas on the east, and extends north to the Arkansasand Canadian rivers, being 150 miles from north to south, and 200 milesfrom east to west. Here are numerous salt springs. For civil purposes, their country is divided into three districts. 

_Cherokees. _ The boundaries of their country commences on the Arkansasriver, opposite the western boundary of Arkansas Territory;--thencenorthwardly along the line of Missouri, 8 miles to Seneca river;--thencewest to the Neosho river;--thence up said river to the Osagelands;--thence west indefinitely, as far as habitable;--thence south tothe Creek lands, and along the eastern line of the Creeks to a point 43miles west of the Territory of Arkansas, and 25 miles north of Arkansasriver;--thence to the Verdigris river, and down Arkansas river, to themouth of the Neosho;--thence southwardly to the junction of the NorthFork and Canadian rivers;--and thence down the Canadian and Arkansasrivers to the place of beginning. The treaty of 1828, secures to thistribe 7, 000, 000 of acres, and adds land westward for hunting grounds asfar as the U. S. Boundaries extend. 

The _Creeks_, or Muscogees, occupy the country west of Arkansas thatlies between the lands of the Chocktaws and Cherokees. 

The _Senecas_ join the State of Missouri on the east, with theCherokees south, the Neosho river west, and possess 127, 500 acres. 

The _Osage_ (a French corruption of _Wos-sosh-ee_, their proper name, which has again been corrupted by Darby and others into _Ozark_) havetheir country north of the western portion of the Cherokee lands, commencing 25 miles west of the State of Missouri, with a width of 50miles, and extending indefinitely west. About half the tribe are in theCherokee country. 

The _Quapaws_ were originally connected with the Osages. They havemigrated from the lower Arkansas, and have their lands adjoining theState of Missouri, immediately north of the Senecas. 

The _Putawatomies_ are on the north-eastern side of the Missouri river, but they are not satisfied, and the question of their locality is notfully settled. 444 Putawatomies are mingled with the Kickapoos, on thesouth-west side of the Missouri river. 

The Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias and Kaskaskias are remnants of the greatwestern confederacy, of which the Miamies were the most prominentbranch. These and other tribes constituted the Illini, Oillinois, orIllinois nation, that once possessed the country now included in thegreat States of Indiana, Illinois, &c. Their lands lie west of the Stateof Missouri, and south-west of the Missouri river. 

The _Delawares_ occupy a portion of the country in the forks of theKanzau river, (or, as written by the French, Kansas. ) They are theremnants of another great confederacy, the _Lenni-Lenopi_, asdenominated by themselves. 

The lands of the _Kickapoos_ lie north of the Delawares, and along theMissouri, including 768, 000 acres. 

The _Ottoes_ occupy a tract of country between the Missouri and Platterivers, but their land is said to extend south and below the Platte. 

The country of the _O'Mahaus_ has the Platte river on the south, and theMissouri north-east. 

The country of the _Pawnees_ lies to the westward of the Ottoes andO'Mahaus. The boundaries are not defined. 

The _Puncahs_ are a small tribe that originated from the Pawnees, andlive in the northern extremity of the country spoken of as the Indianterritory. 

_Present Condition. _--The Chocktaws, Cherokees and Creeks are moreadvanced in civilized habits then any other tribes. They have organizedlocal governments of their own, have enacted some wholesome laws, livein comfortable houses, raise horses, cattle, sheep and swine, cultivatethe ground, have good fences, dress like Americans, and manufacture muchof their own clothing. They have schools and religious privileges, bymissionary efforts, to a limited extent. The Cherokees have a writtenlanguage, perfect in its form, the invention of Mr. Guess, afull-blooded Indian. The Senecas, Delawares, and Shawanoes, also, arepartially civilized, and live with considerable comfort from theproduce of their fields and stock. The Putawatomies, Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias, Kaskaskias, Ottawas, and Kickapoos, have partially adoptedcivilized customs. Some live in comfortable log cabins, fence andcultivate the ground, and have a supply of stock; others live in barkhuts, and are wretched. The Osages or Wos-sosh-ees, Quapaws, Kanzaus, Ottoes, O'Mahaus, Pawnees and Puncahs have made much less improvement intheir mode of living. A few have adopted civilized habits, and arerising in the scale of social and individual comforts, but the largerportion are yet _Indians_. 

Mr. McCoy estimates the whole number of aborigines in North America, including those of Mexico, at 1, 800, 000, of which 10, 000 are so farimproved as to be classed with civilized men, and amongst whom, thereare as many pious Christians, as amongst the same amount of populationin the United States. In addition to these, he estimates that there maybe about 60, 000 more, "which may have made advances toward civilization, some more and some less. "

For some years past, the policy of the government of the United Stateshas been directed to the project of removing all the Indians from thecountry organized into States and Territories, and placing themsufficiently contiguous to be easily governed, and yet removed fromdirect contact and future interruption from white population. Thisproject was recommended in the period of Mr. Monroe's administration, was further considered and some progress made under that of Mr. Adams, but has been carried into more successful execution within the last fiveyears. It is much to be regretted that this project was not commencedearlier. The residence of small bands of Indians, with their own feebleand imperfect government, carried on within any organized state orterritory, is ruinous. Those who argue that _because_ of the removal ofthe Indians from within the jurisdiction of the states, or an organizedterritory, _therefore_ they will be driven back from the country inwhich it is now proposed to place them, evince but a very partial andimperfect view of the subject. The present operation of government is anexperiment, and it is one that ought to receive a fair and full trial. If it does not succeed, I know not of any governmental regulation thatcan result, with success, to the prosperity of the Indians. The projectis to secure to each tribe, by patent, the lands allotted them, --to formthem into a territorial government, with some features of therepresentative principle, --to have their whole country under thesupervision of our government, as their guardian, for their benefit, --toallow no white men to pass the lines and intermix with the Indians, except those who are licensed by due authority, --to aid them in adoptingcivilized habits, provide for them schools and other means of improvingtheir condition, and, through the agency of missionary societies, toinstruct them in the principles of the gospel of Christ. 

_Missionary Efforts and Stations. _--These are conducted by the AmericanBoard of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, --the Baptist Board of F. Missions, --the Methodist Epis. Missionary Society, --the Western ForeignMissionary Society, --and the Cumberland Presbyterians. Stations havebeen formed, and schools established, with most of these tribes. About2, 500 are members of Christian churches of different denominations. Theparticulars of these operations are to be found in the Reports of therespective societies, and the various religious periodicals. 

Of other tribes within the Valley of the Mississippi, and not yet withinthe Indian territory, the following estimate is sufficiently near thetruth for practical purposes. 

 Indians from New York, about Green Bay 725 Wyandots in Ohio and Michigan 623 Miamies 1, 200 Winnebagoes 4, 591 Chippeways, or O'Jibbeways 6, 793 Ottawas and Chippeways of lake Michigan 5, 300 Chippeways, Ottawas and Putawatomies 8, 000 Putawatomies 1, 400 Menominees 4, 200

They are all east of the Mississippi, and chiefly found on thereservations in Ohio, Indiana, and Michigan, and in the country betweenthe Wisconsin river and lake Superior. Those tribes west of theMississippi river, and along the region of the upper Missouri river, areas follows:

 Sioux 27, 500 Ioways 1, 200 Sauks of Missouri 500 Sauks and Foxes 6, 400 Assinaboines 8, 000 Crees 3, 000 Gros Ventres 3, 000 Aurekaras 3, 000 Cheyennes 2, 000 Mandans 1, 500 Black Feet 30, 000 Camanches 7, 000 Minatarees 1, 500 Crows 4, 500 Arrepahas and Kiawas 1, 400 Caddoes 800 Snake and other tribes within the Rocky mountains 20, 000 West of the Rocky mountains 80, 000

The Camanches, Arrepahas, Kiawas and Caddoes roam over the great plainstowards the sources of the Arkansas and Red rivers, and through thenorthern parts of Texas. The Black Feet are towards the heads of theMissouri. 

_Monuments and Antiquities. _--Before dismissing the subject of theaborigines, I shall touch very briefly on the monuments and antiquitiesof the west, --with strong convictions that there has been muchexaggeration on this subject. I have already intimated that the moundsof the west are natural formations, but I have not room for thecircumstances and facts that go to sustain this theory. The number ofobjects considered as antiquities is greatly exaggerated. Theimaginations of men have done much. The number of mounds on the Americanbottom in Illinois, adjacent to Cahokia creek, is stated by Mr. Flint at200. The writer has counted all the elevations of surface for the extentof nine miles, and they amount to 72. One of these, Monk hill, is muchtoo large, and three fourths of the rest are quite too small for humanlabor. The pigmy graves on the Merrimeek, Mo. , in Tennessee, and otherplaces, upon closer inspection, have been found to contain decayedskeletons of the ordinary size, but buried with the leg and thigh bonesin contact. The _giant_ skeletons sometimes found, are the bones ofbuffalo. 

It is much easier for waggish laborers to deposit old horse shoes andother iron articles where they are at work, for the special pleasure ofdigging them up for credulous antiquarians, than to find proofs of theexistence of the horses that wore them!

There may, or may not, be monuments and antiquities that belong to arace of men of prior existence to the present race of Indians. All thatthe writer urges is, that this subject may not be considered as settled;that due allowance may be made for the extreme credulity of some, andthe want of personal observation and examination of other writers onthis subject. Gross errors have been committed, and exaggerations ofvery trivial circumstances have been made. 

The antiquities belonging to the Indian race are neither numerous orinteresting, unless we except the remains of rude edifices andenclosures, the walls of which are almost invariably embankments ofearth. They are rude axes and knives of stone, bottles and vessels ofpotter's ware, arrow and spear heads, rude ornaments, &c. 

Roman, French, Italian, German and English coins and medals, withinscriptions, have been found, --most unquestionably brought byEuropeans, --probably by the Jesuits and other orders, who were amongstthe first explorers of the west, and who had their religious houses heremore than a century past. 

Copper and silver ornaments have been discovered in the mounds that havebeen opened. The calumet, or large stone pipe, is often found in Indiangraves. Two facts deserve to be regarded by those who examine mounds andIndian cemeteries. First, that the Indians have been accustomed to burytheir dead in these mounds. Secondly, that they were accustomed to placevarious ornaments, utensils, weapons, and other articles of value, theproperty of the deceased, in these graves, especially if a chieftain, orman of note. A third fact known to our frontier people, is the custom ofseveral Indian tribes wrapping their dead in strips of bark, orencasing them with the halves of a hollow log, and placing them in theforks of trees. This was the case specially, when their deaths occurredwhile on hunting or war parties. At stated seasons these relics werecollected, with much solemnity, brought to the common sepulchre of thetribe, and deposited with their ancestors. This accounts for theconfused manner in which the bones are often found in mounds and Indiangraveyards. Human skeletons, or rather mummies, have been discovered inthe nitrous caves of Kentucky. The huge bones of the mammoth and otherenormous animals, have been exhumed, at the Bigbone licks in Kentuckyand in other places. 

FOOTNOTES:

[7] See Pownal's Administration of the British Colonies, --Colden'sHistory of the Five Nations, --New York Historical Collections, vol. II. , --Charlevoix Histoire de la Nouvelle France, --Hon. De Witt Clinton'sDiscourse before the N. Y. Historical Society, 1811, --Discovery of theMississippi river, by Father Lewis Hennepin, --M. Tonti's Account of M. De La Salle's Expedition, --La Harpe's Journal, &c. 

CHAPTER VII. 

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA. 

The portion of Pennsylvania lying west of the Alleghany ridge, containsthe counties of Washington, Greene, Fayette, Westmoreland, Alleghany, Beaver, Butler, Armstrong, Mercer, Venango, Crawford, Erie, Warren, McKean, Jefferson, Indiana, Somerset, and a part of Cambria. 

_Face of the Country. _--Somerset, and parts of Fayette, Westmoreland, Cambria, Indiana, Jefferson, and McKean are mountainous, withintervening vallies of rich, arable land. The hilly portions ofWashington, and portions of Fayette, Westmoreland, and Alleghanycounties are fertile, with narrow vales of rich land intervening. Thehills are of various shapes and heights, and the ridges are not uniform, but pursue various and different directions. North of Pittsburg, thecountry is hilly and broken, but not mountainous, and the bottom landson the water courses are wider and more fertile. On French creek, andother branches of the Alleghany river there are extensive tracts ofrich bottom, or intervale lands, covered with beech, birch, sugar maple, pine, hemlock, and other trees common to that portion of the UnitedStates. The pine forests in Pennsylvania and New York, about the headsof the Alleghany river, produce vast quantities of lumber, which aresent annually to all the towns along the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Itis computed that not less than thirty million feet of lumber areannually sent down the Ohio from this source. 

_Soil, Agriculture, &c. _--Portions of the country are excellent forfarming. The _glade_ lands, as they are called, in Greene and othercounties, produce oats, grass, &c. , but are not so good for wheat andcorn. Those counties which lie towards lake Erie are better adapted tograzing. Great numbers of cattle are raised here. Washington and othercounties south of Pittsburg produce great quantities of wool. TheMonongahela has been famous for its whiskey, but it is gratifying tolearn that it is greatly on the decline, and that its manufacture beginsto be regarded as it should be, --ruinous to society. A large proportionof the distilleries are reported to have been abandoned. Bituminous coalabounds in all the hills around Pittsburg, and over most parts ofWestern Pennsylvania. Iron ore is found abundantly in the counties alongthe Alleghany, and many furnaces and forges are employed in itsmanufactory. Salt springs abound on the Alleghany, and especially on theConemaugh and Kiskiminitas, where salt, in large quantities, ismanufactured. 

The natural advantages of Western Pennsylvania are great. Almost everyknoll, hill and mountain can be turned to some good account, and itsrivers, canals, rail and turnpike roads afford facilities forintercommunication, and for transportation of the productions to aforeign market. The advantages of this region for trade, agriculture, raising stock, and manufacturing, are great. The streams furnishabundant mill-seats, the air is salubrious, and the morals of thecommunity good. Till recently, Pennsylvania has been neglectful toprovide for common schools. A school system is now in successfuloperation, and has a strong hold on the confidence and affections of thepeople in this part of the State. 

_Internal Improvements. _--Pennsylvania has undertaken an immense systemof internal improvements, throughout the State. The Alleghany portagerail-road commences at Hollidaysburgh, on the Juniata river, at thetermination of the eastern division of the great Pennsylvania canal, andcrosses the Alleghany ridge at Blair's Gap, summit 37 miles, toJohnstown on the Conemaugh. Here it connects with the western divisionof the same canal. It ascends and descends the mountain by five inclinedplanes on each side, overcoming in ascent and descent 2570 feet, 1398 ofwhich are on the eastern, and 1172 on the western side of the mountain. 563 feet are overcome by grading, and 2007 feet by the planes. On thisline, also, are four extensive viaducts, and a tunnel 870 feet long, and20 feet wide, through the staple bend of the Conemaugh river. Thewestern division of the Pennsylvania canal commences at Johnstown, onthe Conemaugh, pursues the course of that stream, and also that of theKiskiminitas and Alleghany rivers, and finally terminates at Pittsburg. In its course from Johnstown it passes through the towns of Fairfield, Lockport, Blairsville, Saltzburg, Warren, Leechburg, and Freeport, mostof which are small villages, but increasing in size and business. "Thecanal is 104 miles in length: lockage 471 feet, 64 locks, (exclusive offour on a branch canal to the Alleghany, ) 10 dams, 1 tunnel, 16aqueducts, 64 culverts, 39 waste-wiers, and 152 bridges. 

"The canal commissioners, in their reports to the legislature, stronglyrecommend the extension of this division to the town of Beaver, so as tounite with the Beaver division. By a recent survey, the distance wasascertained to be 25. 065 miles, and the estimated cost of construction, $263, 821. This, with a proposed canal from Newcastle to Akron, on theOhio and Erie canal, will form a continuous inland communication betweenPhiladelphia and New Orleans, of 2435 miles, with the exception of thepassage over the Alleghany portage rail-road, of 36. 69 miles inlength. [8] It is 395 miles from Philadelphia to Pittsburg by thiscanal. 

The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal commences at the town ofBeaver, on the Ohio river, at the junction of the Big Beaver river, 25-½ miles below Pittsburg, ascends the valley of that river, thenceup the Chenango creek to its termination in Mercer county, a distance of42. 68 miles. This work, together with a feeder on French creek, andother works now in progress, are parts of a canal intended eventually toconnect the Ohio river with lake Erie, at the town of Erie; which, whenfinished, will probably be about 130 miles in length. It is alsoproposed to construct a canal from Newcastle, on the Beaver division, 24. 75 miles above the town of Beaver, along the valley of the Mahoningriver, to Akron, near the portage summit of the Ohio and Erie canal, 85miles in length, 8 miles of which are in Pennsylvania, and the residuein Ohio. Estimated cost, $764, 372. 

The Cumberland, or National road, crosses the south-western part ofPennsylvania. It passes through Brownsville where it crosses theMonongahela river, and Washington, into a corner of Virginia toWheeling, where it crosses the Ohio river, and from thence through Ohio, Indiana and Illinois to the Mississippi river, or perhaps to the westernboundary of Missouri. 

_Chief Towns. _--_Brownsville_, situated on the east side of theMonongahela river, is in a romantic country, surrounded with rich farmsand fine orchards, and contains about 1200 inhabitants. It is at thehead of steamboat navigation. _Washington_ is the county seat ofWashington county, surrounded with a fertile but hilly country, containsabout 2000 inhabitants, and has a respectable college. _Cannonsburgh_ issituated on the west side of Chartier's creek, 8 miles north ofWashington. It also has a flourishing college, with buildings in anelevated and pleasant situation. _Uniontown_ is the county seat ofFayette, on the National road, and contains about 1500 inhabitants. _Greensburg_ is the seat of justice for Westmoreland county, on thegreat turnpike road from Philadelphia by Harrisburg to Pittsburg, andhas about 850 inhabitants. _Beaver_ is situated at the mouth of BigBeaver, on the Ohio, with a population of 1000 or 1200, and is a placeof considerable business. _Meadville_ is the seat of justice forCrawford county, situated near French creek, and has about 1200inhabitants. Here is a college established by the Rev. Mr. Alden, someyears since, to which the late Dr. Bentley of Salem, Mass. , bequeathed avaluable library. It is now under the patronage of the MethodistEpiscopal church. 

_Erie_ is a thriving town, situated on the south side of lake Erie, onehundred and twenty miles north of Pittsburg. Steamboats that pass up thelake from Buffalo, usually stop here, from whence stage routescommunicate with Pittsburg, and many other towns in the interior. Theportage from this place to the navigable waters of the Alleghany riveris fifteen miles over a turnpike road. The population of Erie is from1500 to 2000, and increasing. 

_Waterford_, the place where the Erie portage terminates, is situated onthe north bank of the French creek; it is a place of considerablebusiness. French creek is a navigable branch of the Alleghany river. _Franklin_, _Kittanning_, and _Freeport_, are respectable towns on theAlleghany river, between Pittsburg and Meadville. 

_Economy_ is the seat of the German colony, under the late Mr. Rapp, which emigrated from their former residence of Harmony on the Wabashriver in Indiana. It is a flourishing town on the right bank of theOhio, 18 miles below Pittsburg. It has several factories, a largechurch, a spacious hotel, and 800 or 900 inhabitants, living in acommunity form, under some singular regulations. The Economists, orHarmonists, as they were called, in Indiana, are an industrious, moraland enterprising community, with some peculiarities in their religiousnotions. There are many other towns and villages in WesternPennsylvania, of moral, industrious inhabitants, which the limits ofthis work will not permit me to notice. 

PITTSBURG is the emporium of Western Pennsylvania, and from itsmanufacturing enterprise, especially in iron wares, has beendenominated the "Birmingham of the West. " It stands on the land formedat the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers on a levelalluvion deposit, but entirely above the highest waters, surrounded withhills. This place was selected as the site of a fort and trading depotby the French, about eighty years since, and a small stockade erected, and called Fort du Quesne, to defend the country against the occupancyof it by the English, and to monopolize the Indian trade. It came intothe possession of the British upon the conquest of this country afterthe disastrous defeat of Gen. Braddock; and under the administration ofthe elder Pitt, a fort was built here under the superintendence of lordStanwix, that cost more than $260, 000, and called Fort Pitt. In 1760, aconsiderable town arose around the fort, surrounded with beautifulgardens and orchards, but it decayed on the breaking out of the Indianwar, in 1763. The origin of the present town may be dated 1765. Its planwas enlarged and re-surveyed in 1784, and then belonged to the Pennfamily as a part of their hereditary manor. By them it was sold. 

The Indian wars in the West retarded its growth for several years after, but since, it has steadily increased, according to the following

 TABLE. 

 1800, 1, 565 1810, 4, 768 1820, 7, 248 1830, 12, 542 1835, _estimated_, 30, 000

The estimate of 1835, includes the suburbs. The town is compactly built, and some streets are handsome; but the use of coal for culinary andmanufacturing purposes, gives the town a most dingy and gloomy aspect. Its salubrity and admirable situation for commerce and manufacturesensure its future prosperity and increase of population. The exhaustlessbeds of coal in the bluffs of the Monongahela, and of iron ore, which isfound in great abundance in all the mountainous regions of WesternPennsylvania, give it preëminence over other western cities formanufacturing purposes. It really stands at the head of steamboatnavigation on the waters of the Ohio; for the Alleghany and Monongahelarivers are navigable only at high stages of water, and by the recentimprovements in the channel of the Ohio, and the use of light draftboats, the navigation to Pittsburg is uninterrupted except in winter. 

The suburbs of Pittsburg are Birmingham, on the south bank of theMonongahela, Alleghany town, on the opposite side of the Alleghanyriver, and containing a population of about seven thousand, Lawrenceville, Northern and Eastern Liberties. 

MANUFACTURES. 

 Nail Factories and Rolling Mills. Weight in lbs. Value. Union, 720, 000 $43, 200 Sligo, 400, 000 32, 000 Pittsburg, 782, 887 86, 544 Grant's Hill, 500, 000 20, 000 Juniata, 500, 000 30, 000 Pine Creek, 457, 000 34, 100 Miscellaneous factories, 360, 000 28, 200

The foregoing table was constructed in 1831. Doubtless this branch ofbusiness has greatly increased. 

The same year there were 12 foundries in and near Pittsburg, whichconverted 2963 tons of metal into castings, employed 132 hands, consumed87, 000 bushels of charcoal, and produced the value of $189, 614. 

The following sketch of manufactures in Pittsburg and vicinity, iscopied from Tanner's Guide, published in 1832:

Steam engines 37, which employed 123 hands. Value, $180, 400. 

Cotton factories 8, with 369 power-looms, 598 hands; value, $300, 134. Inthe counties of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are 5 cottonfactories. 

In Pittsburg and the two counties just named, are 8 paper mills, valuedat $165, 000. 

In Pittsburg and vicinity are 5 steam mills, which employ 50 hands. Value of their products annually, $80, 000. 

There are 5 brass foundries and 8 coppersmiths' shops. Value of themanufactures, $25, 000. 

Within the limits of the city, there are 30 blacksmiths' shops, whichemploy 136 hands. There are also 4 gunsmiths, and 9 silversmiths andwatch repairers. 

In Pittsburg and the counties of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are26 saddleries; and 41 tanneries, 64 brick yards, and 11 potteries. Thereare in the city 4 breweries, and 4 white lead manufactories, at which7, 400 kegs are made annually; value, $27, 900. 

There are 6 printing-offices in Pittsburg, and 6 more in the twocounties. 

The estimated value of the manufactures of every kind in Pittsburg, andthe counties of Alleghany and Westmoreland, in 1831, was $3, 978, 469. 

Doubtless they have greatly increased since. 

_Coal. _--The bituminous coal formations around Pittsburg are welldeserving the attention of geologists. Coal Hill, on the west side ofthe Monongahela, and immediately opposite Pittsburg, is the great sourceof this species of fuel, and the miners, in some places, have perforatedthe hill to the distance of several hundred feet. It is found in stratafrom 6 inches to 10 or 12 feet in thickness, and often at the height of300 feet above the bed of the river, in the hills around Pittsburg, andalong the course of the Alleghany and Monongahela. Below this onestratum, which is of equal elevation, none is found till you reach thebase of the hill below the bed of the river. Besides supplyingPittsburg, large quantities are sent down the river. 

There are in Pittsburg, (or _were_ two years since) three Baptistchurches, or congregations, one of which is of Welch, four Presbyterian, four Methodist, one Episcopal, one Roman Catholic, (besides a cathedralon Grant's Hill, ) one Covenanter, one Seceder, one German Reformed, oneUnitarian, one Associate Reformed, one Lutheran, one African, andperhaps some others in the city or suburbs. 

Of the public buildings deserving notice, I will name the _WesternUniversity of Pennsylvania_, which stands on the Monongahela, nearGrant's Hill;--the _Penitentiary_, in Alleghany town, which has cost theState an immense amount, and is conducted on the principle of solitaryconfinement;--the _Presbyterian Theological Seminary_ is also inAlleghany town;--the _Museum_;--the _United States Arsenal_, about twomiles above the city, at Lawrenceville. It encloses four acres, and hasa large depot for ordnance, arms, &c. The _City Water Works_ is asplendid monument of municipal enterprise. The water is taken from theAlleghany river, by a pipe, 15 inches in diameter, and carried 2, 439feet, and 116 feet elevation, to a reservoir on Grant's Hill, capable ofreceiving 1, 000, 000 gallons. The water is raised by a steam-engine of 84horse power, and will raise 1, 500, 000 gallons in 24 hours. The aqueductof the Pennsylvania canal, across the Alleghany river, is also deservingattention. 

The inhabitants of Pittsburg are a mixture of English, French, Scotch, Irish, German and Swiss artisans and mechanics, as well as of nativeborn Americans, who live together in much harmony. Industry, sobriety, morality and good order generally prevail. Extensive revivals ofreligion prevailed here about a year since. 

The population of Western Pennsylvania is characterized for industry, frugality, economy and enterprise. Temperance principles have madeconsiderable progress of late years. 

WESTERN VIRGINIA

--Embraces all that part of Virginia that lies upon the western waters. The counties are Brooke, Ohio, Monongalia, Harrison, Randolph, Russell, Preston, Tyler, Wood, Greenbrier, Kenawha, [9] Mason, Lewis, Nicholas, Logan, Cabell, Monroe, Pocahontas, Giles, Montgomery, Wythe, Grayson, Tazewell, Washington, Scott and Lee:--26. 

Its principal river is the Kenawha and its tributaries. Of these, Gaula, New river and Greenbrier are the principal. New river is the largest, and rises in North Carolina. The Monongahela drains a largedistrict;--the little Kenawha, Guyandotte, and Sandy are smallerstreams. The latter separates Virginia from Kentucky for some distance. 

Much of Western Virginia is mountainous, lying in parallel ridges, whichare often broken by streams. Some of the vallies are very fertile. TheKenawha Valley is narrow, but extends to a great distance. The saltmanufactories extend from Charlestown up the Kenawha, the distance of 12miles. They are 20 in number, and manufacture nearly two millions ofbushels annually. The river is navigable for steamboats to this point atan ordinary depth of water. Coal is used in the manufactories, which isdug from the adjacent mountains, and brought to the works on woodenrailways. Seven miles above Charlestown is the famous burning spring. Inflammable gas escapes, which, if ignited, will burn with greatbrilliancy for many hours, and even for several days, in a favorablestate of the atmosphere. The State of Virginia has constructed atolerably good turnpike road from the mouth of the Guyandotte, on theOhio, to Staunton. It passes through Charlestown, and along the Kenawhariver to the falls;--from thence it extends along the course of Newriver, and across Sewall's mountain by Louisburg to Staunton. The fallsof Kenawha are in a romantic region, and merit the attention of thetraveller. Marshall's pillar is a singular projecting rock thatoverhangs New river, 1015 feet above its bed. The stage road passes nearits summit. 

This route is one of the great stage routes leading from the Ohio Valleyto Washington city, and to all parts of old Virginia. 

The _White Sulphur_, _Red Sulphur_, _Hot_, _Warm_, _and Sweet Springs_, are in the mountainous parts of Virginia, and on this route. These areall celebrated as watering places, but the White Sulphur spring is thegreat resort of the fashionable of the Southern States. Let the readerimagine an extensive campground, a mile in circumference, the camps neatcottages, built of brick, or framed, and neatly painted. In the centreof this area are the springs, bath-houses, dining hall, and mansion ofthe proprietor. The cottages are intended for the accommodation offamilies, and contain two rooms each. This is by far the most extensivewatering place in the Union. Of the effect of such establishments on_morals_ I shall say nothing. The reader will draw his own conclusions, when he understands that the card-table, roulette, wheel of fortune, anddice-box are amongst its principal amusements. Here, not unfrequently, cotton bales, negroes, and even plantations, change owners in a night. The scenery around is highly picturesque and romantic. Declivities andmountains, sprinkled over with evergreens, are scattered in wildconfusion. A few miles from White Sulphur springs, you pass the dividingline--the Alleghany ridge, and pass from Western into Middle Virginia. 

_Chief Towns. _--Wheeling is the principal commercial town, and a greatthoroughfare, in Western Virginia. It has a large number of stores, andcommission warehouses; and contains six or eight thousand inhabitants. It is 92 miles by water, and 55 miles by land, from Pittsburg. It hasmanufactures of cotton, glass, and earthenware. Boats are built here. The Cumberland or National road crosses the Ohio at this place, overwhich a bridge is about to be erected. The town is surrounded with bold, precipitous hills, which contain inexhaustible quantities of coal. Atextreme low water, steamboats ascend no higher than Wheeling. 

Charlestown, Wellsburgh, Parkersburgh, Point Pleasant, Clarksburgh, Abington, Louisburg, and many others, are pleasant and thriving towns. 

The climate of Western Virginia is preeminently salubrious. The people, in their manners, have considerable resemblance to those of WesternPennsylvania. There are fewer slaves, less wealth, more industry andequality, than in the "Old Dominion, " as Eastern Virginia is sometimescalled. 

FOOTNOTES:

[8] See "Mitchell's Compendium of the Internal Improvements in theUnited States, " where much valuable information of the rail-roads andcanals of the United States is found in a small space. 

[9] I have adopted the orthography of the legislature. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

MICHIGAN. 

Extent, --Situation, --Boundaries;----Face of the Country; Rivers, Lakes, &c. , Soil and Productions;--Subdivisions, Counties;--Towns, Detroit;--Education;--Improvements projected;--BoundaryDispute;--Outline of the Constitution. 

Michigan is a large triangular peninsula, surrounded on the east, northand west, by lakes, and on the south by the States of Ohio and Indiana. Lake Erie, Detroit river, lake St. Clair, and St. Clair river, lie onthe east for 140 miles; lake Huron on the north-east and north, thestraits of Mackinaw on the extreme north-west, and lake Michigan on itswestern side. Its area is about 40, 000 square miles. 

_Face of the Country. _--Its general surface is level, having nomountains, and no very elevated hills. Still, much of its surface isundulating, like the swelling of the ocean. Along the shore of lakeHuron, in some places, are high, precipitous bluffs, and along theeastern shore of Michigan are hills of pure sand, blown up by the windsfrom the lake. Much of the country bordering on lakes Erie, Huron, andSt. Clair, is level, --somewhat deficient in good water, and for the mostpart heavily timbered. The interior is more undulating, in some placesrather hilly, with much fine timber, interspersed with oak "openings, ""plains, " and "prairies. "

The "_plains_" are usually timbered, destitute of undergrowth, and arebeautiful. The soil is rather gravelly. The "_openings_" containscattering timber in groves and patches, and resemble those tractscalled _barrens_ farther south. There is generally timber enough forfarming purposes, if used with economy, while it costs but little laborto clear the land. For the first ploughing, a strong team of four orfive yoke of oxen is required, as is the case with prairie. 

The _openings_ produce good wheat. 

The "_prairies_, " will be described more particularly under the head ofIllinois. In Michigan they are divided into wet and dry. The formerpossess a rich soil, from one to four feet deep, and produce abundantlyall kinds of crops common to 42 degrees of N. Latitude, especially thoseon St. Joseph river. The latter afford early pasturage for emigrants, hay to winter his stock, and with a little labor would be converted intoexcellent artificial meadows. Much of the land that now appears wet andmarshy will in time be drained, and be the first rate soil for farming. 

A few miles back of Detroit is a flat, wet country for considerableextent, much of it heavily timbered, --the streams muddy andsluggish, --some wet prairies, --with dry, sandy ridges intervening. Thetimber consists of all the varieties found in the Western States; suchas oaks of various species, walnut, hickory, maple, poplar, ash, beech, &c. , with an intermixture of white and yellow pine. 

_Rivers and Lakes. _--In general, the country abounds with rivers andsmall streams. They rise in the interior, and flow in every direction tothe lakes which surround it. The northern tributaries of the Maumee risein Michigan, though the main stream is in Ohio, and it enters the westend of lake Erie on the "debatable land. " Proceeding up the lake, Raisinand then Huron occur. Both are navigable streams, and their head watersinterlock with Grand river, or Washtenong, which flows into lakeMichigan. River Rouge enters Detroit river, a few miles below the cityof Detroit. Raisin rises in the county of Lenawee, and passes throughMonroe. Huron originates amongst the lakes of Livingston, passes throughWashtenaw, and a corner of Wayne, and enters lake Erie towards itsnorth-western corner. Above Detroit is river Clinton, which heads inOakland county, passes through Macomb, and enters lake St. Clair. Passing by several smaller streams, as Belle, Pine, and Black rivers, which fall into St. Clair river, and going over an immense tract ofswampy, wet country, between lake Huron and Saginaw bay, in Sanilaccounty, we come to the Saginaw river. This stream is formed by thejunction of the Tittibawassee, Hare, Shiawassee, Flint, and Cass rivers, all of which unite in the centre of Saginaw county, and form the Saginawriver, which runs north, and enters the bay of the same name. TheTittibawassee rises in the country west of Saginaw bay, runs first asouth, and then a south-eastern course, through Midland county intoSaginaw county, to its junction. Pine river is a branch of this stream, that heads in the western part of Gratiot county, and runs north-eastinto Midland. Hare, the original name of which is Waposebee, commencesin Gratiot, and the N. W. Corner of Shiawassee counties, and runs aneast and north-east course. The heads of the Shiawassee, which is themain fork of the Saginaw, are found in the counties of Livingston andOakland. Its course is northward. Flint river rises in the south part ofLapeer county, and runs a north-western course, some distance past thecentre of the county, when it suddenly wheels to the south, then to thewest, and enters Genesee county, through which it pursues a deviouscourse towards its destination. Cass river rises in Sanilac county, andruns a western course. These rivers are formed of innumerable branches, and water an extensive district of country. Other smaller streams enterlake Huron, above Saginaw bay; but the whole country across to lakeMichigan is yet a wilderness, and possessed by the Indians. Doubtless itwill soon be purchased, surveyed and settled. On the western side of theState are Traverse, Ottawa, Betsey, Manistic, Pent, White, Maskegon, Grand, Kekalamazoo, and St. Joseph, all of which fall into lakeMichigan. Those above Grand river are beyond the settled portion of theState. Grand river is the largest in Michigan, being 270 miles inlength, its windings included. Its head waters interlock with the Pine, Hare, Shiawassee, Huron, Raisin, St. Joseph and Kekalamazoo. A canalproject is already in agitation to connect it with the Huron, and open awater communication from lake Erie, across the peninsula, direct to lakeMichigan. Grand river is now navigable for batteaux, 240 miles, andreceives in its course, Portage, Red-Cedar, Looking-glass, Maple, Muscota, Flat, Thorn-Apple, and Rouge rivers, besides smaller streams. It enters lake Michigan 245 miles south-westerly from Mackinaw, and 75north of St. Joseph;--is between 50 and 60 rods wide at its mouth, with8 feet water over its bar. The Ottawa Indians own the country on itsnorth side, for 60 miles up. Much of the land on Grand river and itstributaries, is excellent, consisting of six or seven thousand squaremiles;--and, considering its central position in the State, --the generalfertility of its soil, --the good harbor at its mouth, --the numerous millsites on its tributaries, --this region may be regarded as one of themost interesting portions of Michigan. The Kekalamazoo rises in Jacksonand Eaton counties, passes through Calhoun, and the northern part ofKalamazoo, enters the south-eastern part of Allegan, and passesdiagonally through it to the lake. There is much first-rate land, timber, prairie, and openings, on its waters, and is rapidly settling. 

The St. Joseph country is represented by some as the best country inMichigan. This stream has several heads in Branch, Hillsdale, Jackson, Calhoun, and Kalamazoo counties, which unite in St. Joseph county, through which it passes diagonally to the south-west, intoIndiana, --thence through a corner of Elkhart county, into St. Joseph ofthat State, makes the "South Bend, " and then runs north-westerly, intoMichigan, through Berrian county, to the lake. The town of St. Joseph isat its mouth. It has Pigeon, Prairie, Hog, Portage, Christianna, Dowagiake, and Crooked rivers for tributaries, all of which afford goodmill sites. In Cass and St. Joseph counties, are Four-mile, Beardsley, Townsend, McKenny, La Grange, Pokagon, Young, Sturges, Notta-wa-Sepee, and White Pigeon prairies, which are rich tracts of country, and fastfilling up with inhabitants. 

Michigan abounds with small lakes and ponds. Some have marshy andunhealthy borders;--others are transparent fountains, surrounded withbeautiful groves, an undulating country, pebbly and sandy shores, andteeming with excellent fish. The counties of Oakland, Livingston, Washtenaw, Jackson, Barry, and Kalamazoo, are indented with them. 

_Productions. _--These are the same, in general, as those of Ohio and NewYork. Corn and wheat grow luxuriantly here. Rye, oats, barley, buckwheat, potatoes, and all the garden vegetables common to theclimate, grow well. All the species of grasses are produced luxuriantly. Apples and other fruit abound in the older settlements, especially amongthe French about Detroit. 

It will be a great fruit country. 

_Subdivisions. _--Michigan had been divided into 33 counties in 1835, some of which were attached to adjacent counties for judicial purposes. Other counties may have been formed since. The following organizedcounties show the population of the State, (then Territory, ) at theclose of 1834. 

 =================================+================================= | _Dist. From COUNTIES. _Population. _ | SEATS OF JUSTICE. Detroit. _ ---------------------------------+--------------------------------- Berrian, 1, 787 | Berrian, 180 Branch, 764 | Branch, 133 Calhoun, 1, 714 | Eckford, 100 Cass, 3, 280 | Cassopolis, 160 Jackson, 1, 865 | Jacksonsburgh, 77 Kalamazoo, 3, 124 | Bronson, 137 Lenawee, 7, 911 | Tecumseh, 63 Macomb, 6, 055 | Mount Clemens, 25 Monroe, 8, 542 | Monroe, 36 Oakland, 13, 844 | Pontiac, 26 St. Clair, 2, 244 | St. Clair, 60 St. Joseph, 3, 168 | White Pigeon, 135 Washtenaw, 14, 920 | Ann Arbor, 42 Wayne, 16, 638 | Detroit, ------ | _Total_, 85, 856 | ---------------------------------+-----------------------------

The other counties are Hillsdale, Van Buren, Allegan, Barry, Eaton, Ingham, Livingston, Lapeer, Genesee, Shiawassee, Clinton, Ionia, Kent, Ottawa, Oceana, Gratiot, Isabella, Midland, Saginaw, Sanilac, Gladwinand Arenac, the population of which are included in the counties givenin the table. Doubtless, the population of Michigan now (Jan. 1836)exceeds one hundred thousand. 

The counties are subdivided into incorporated townships, for localpurposes, the lines of which usually correspond with the land surveys. 

For the sales of public lands, the State is divided into three landdistricts, and land offices are established at Detroit, Monroe, andBronson. 

_Chief Towns. _--Detroit is the commercial and political metropolis. Itis beautifully situated on the west side of the river Detroit, 18 milesabove Malden in Canada, and 8 miles below the outlet of Lake St. Clair. A narrow street, on which the wharves are built, runs parallel with theriver. After ascending the bench or bluff, is a street called JeffersonAvenue, on which the principal buildings are erected. The olderdwellings are of wood, but many have been recently built of brick, withbasements of stone, the latter material being brought from Cleveland, Ohio. The primitive forest approaches near the town. The table landextends 12 or 15 miles interior, when it becomes wet and marshy. AlongDetroit river the ancient French settlements extend several miles, andthe inhabitants exhibit all the peculiar traits of the French on theMississippi. Their gardens and orchards are valuable. 

The public buildings of Detroit, are a state house, a council house, anacademy, and two or three banking houses. There are five churches for asmany different denominations, in which the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Baptists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics worship. The Catholiccongregation is the largest, and they have a large cathedral. Stores andcommercial warehouses are numerous, and business is rapidly increasing. Town lots, rents, and landed property in the vicinity are risingrapidly. Lots have advanced, within two or three years, in the businessparts of the city, more than one thousand per cent. Mechanics of alldescriptions, and particularly those in the building line, are muchwanted here, and in other towns in Michigan. The population is supposedto be about 10, 000, and is rapidly increasing. This place commands thetrade of all the upper lake country. 

_Monroe_, the seat of justice for Monroe county, is situated on theright bank of the river Raisin, opposite the site of old Frenchtown. Twoyears since, it had about 150 houses, of which 20 or 30 were of stone, and 1600 inhabitants. There were also two flouring and severalsaw-mills, a woollen factory, an iron foundry, a chair factory, &c. , andan abundant supply of water power. The "Bank of the River Raisin, " witha capital of $100, 000, is established here. The Presbyterians, Episcopalians, Baptists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics have houses ofworship and ministers here. It was at this place, or rather atFrenchtown in its vicinity, that a horrible massacre of Americanprisoners took place during the last war with Great Britain, by theIndians under Gen. Proctor. The sick and wounded were burned alive inthe hospital, or shot as they ran shrieking through the flames!

Of the 700 young men barbarously murdered here, many were students atlaw, young physicians, and merchants, the best blood of Kentucky!

Mount Clemens, Brownstown, Ann Arbor, Pontiac, White Pigeon, Tecumseh, Jacksonsburgh, Niles, St. Joseph, Spring Arbor, and many others, arepleasant villages, and will soon become populous. 

_Education. _--Congress has made the same donations of lands, as to otherWestern States, and will, doubtless, appropriate the same per centage onthe sales of all public lands, when the State is admitted into theUnion, as has been appropriated to the other new States. A respectablefemale academy is in operation at Detroit. The Presbyterian denominationare about establishing a college at Ann Arbor, the Methodists a seminaryat Spring Arbor, the Baptists one in Kalamazoo county, and the RomanCatholics, it is said, have fixed their post at Bertrand, a town on theSt. Joseph river, in the south-eastern corner of Berrian county, andnear to the boundary line of Indiana. Much sentiment and feeling existsin favor of education and literary institutions, amongst the people. 

_Improvements projected. _--A survey has been made for a rail-road acrossthe peninsula of Detroit, through the counties of Wayne, Washtenaw, Jackson, Calhoun, Kalamazoo, Van Buren and Berrian, to the mouth of St. Joseph river. Another project is, to commence at or near Toledo on theMaumee river, and pass through the southern counties of Michigan intoIndiana, and terminate at Michigan city. A third project is, to open awater communication from the navigable waters of Grand river, to Huronriver, and, by locks and slack water navigation, enter lake Erie. Acanal from the mouth of Maumee Bay to lake Michigan, has also beenspoken of as a feasible project;--or one from the mouth of the riverRaisin to the St. Joseph, would open a similar communication. It hasalso been suggested to improve the river Raisin by locks and slack waternavigation. Doubtless not many years will elapse before some of theseprojects will prove realities. 

_Boundary Dispute. _--This unpleasant dispute between Ohio and Michigan, relates to a strip of country about fifteen miles in width at itseastern, and seven miles at its western end, lying between thenorth-eastern part of Indiana and the Maumee Bay. A portion of theWabash and Erie canal, now constructing by Indiana, and which isdependent for its completion on either Ohio or Michigan, passes overthis territory. Michigan claims it by virtue of an ordinance ofCongress, passed the 13th of July, 1787, organizing the "_North-WesternTerritory_, " in which the boundaries of _three_ States were laid off, "Provided, that the boundaries of these three States shall be subject sofar to be altered, that, if Congress shall hereafter find it expedient, they shall have authority to form one or two States in that part of thesaid territory _which lies north of an east and west line drawn throughthe southerly bend or extreme of lake Michigan_;"--Ohio claims it bypossession, and because, by being received into the Union with thisportion in possession, Congress virtually annulled that part of theformer ordinance that fixed the south bend of lake Michigan as theboundary line, and by having run the line north of this. 

_Outlines of the Constitution. _--A convention assembled at Detroit, onthe 11th of May, 1835, and framed a constitution for a state government, which was submitted to, and ratified by vote of the people on the firstMonday in October. 

The powers of the government are divided into three distinctdepartments;--the legislative, --the executive, --and the judicial. 

The legislative power is vested in a _Senate_ and _House ofRepresentatives_. The representatives are to be chosen annually; andtheir number cannot be less than 48, nor more than 100. 

The senators are to be chosen every two years, one half of them everyyear, and to consist, as nearly as may be, of one third of the number ofthe representatives. 

The census is to be taken in 1837, and 1845, and every ten years afterthe latter period; and also after each census taken by the UnitedStates, the number of senators and representatives is to be apportionedanew among the several counties, according to the number of whiteinhabitants. 

The _legislature_ is to meet annually, on the first Monday in January. 

The executive power is to be vested in a governor, who holds his officefor two years. Upon a vacancy, the lieutenant governor performsexecutive duties. The first election was held on the first Monday inOctober, 1835, and the governor and lieutenant governor hold theiroffices till the first Monday in January, 1838. 

The _judicial power_ is vested in one _Supreme Court_, and in such othercourts as the legislature may, from time to time, establish. The judgesof the Supreme Court are to be appointed by the governor, with theadvice and consent of the Senate, for the term of seven years. Judges ofall county courts, associate judges of circuit courts, and judges ofprobate, are to be elected by the people for the term of four years. 

Each township is authorized to elect four justices of the peace, who areto hold their offices for four years. In all elections, every white malecitizen above the age of 21 years, having resided six months nextpreceding any election, is entitled to vote at such election. 

Slavery, lotteries, and the sale of lottery tickets, are prohibited. 

The seat of government is to be at Detroit, or such other place orplaces as may be prescribed by law until the year 1847, when it is to bepermanently fixed by the legislature. 

OHIO

--Is bounded on the north by lake Erie, and the State of Michigan, eastby Pennsylvania and the Ohio river, south by the Ohio river, whichseparates it from Virginia and Kentucky, and west by Indiana. Themeanderings of the Ohio river extend along the line of this State 436miles. It is about 222 miles in extent, both from north to south, andfrom east to west. After excluding a section of lake Erie, whichprojects into its northern borders, Ohio contains about 40, 000 squaremiles, or 25, 000, 000 acres of land. 

_Divisions. _--Nature has divided this State into fourdepartments, --according to its principal waters. 

1. The Lake country, situated on lake Erie, and embracing all itsnorthern part. Its streams all run into the lake, and reach the Atlanticocean through the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

2. The Muskingum country, on the eastern side, and along the river ofthat name. 

3. The Scioto country, in the middle, --and, 4. The Miami country, along the western side. 

For civil purposes, the State is divided into _seventy-five_ counties, and these are again subdivided into townships. Their names, date oforganization, number of square miles, number of organized townships, seats of justice, and bearing and distance from Columbus, are exhibitedin the following

 TABLE. 

 ------------+----------+------+----------+-----------------+-------------- | | | | | Bearing And | When |Square| No. Of | |Distance from COUNTIES. |organized. |Miles. |Townships. |SEATS OF JUSTICE. | Columbus. ------------+----------+------+----------+-----------------+-------------- Adams, | 1797 | 550 | 10 |West Union, |101 _s. _ Allen, | 1831 | 542 | -- |Lima, |110 _n. W. _ Ashtabula, | 1811 | 700 | 27 |Jefferson, |200 _n. W. _ Athens, | 1805 | 740 | 19 |Athens, | 73 _s. E. _ Belmont, | 1801 | 536 | 16 |St. Clairsville, |116 _e. _ Brown, | 1818 | 470 | 14 |Georgetown, |104 _s. _ Butler, | 1803 | 480 | 13 |Hamilton, |101 _s. W. _ Carroll, | 1833 | [A] | [A] |Carrollton, |125 _e. N. E. _ Champaign, | 1805 | 417 | 12 |Urbanna, | 50 _w. N. W. _ Clark, | 1818 | 412 | 10 |Springfield, | 44 _w. _ Clermont, | 1800 | 515 | 12 |Batavia, | 96 _s. W. _ Clinton, | 1810 | 400 | 8 |Wilmington, | 60 _s. W. _ Columbiana, | 1803 | [A] | [A] |New Lisbon, |150 _e. N. E. _ Coshocton, | 1811 | 562 | 21 |Coshocton, | 68 _n. E. _ Crawford, | 1826 | 594 | 12 |Bucyrus, | 60 _n. _ Cuyahoga, | 1810 | 475 | 19 |Cleveland, |140 _n. N. E. _ Dark, | 1817 | 660 | 10 |Greenville, | 93 _w. _ Delaware, | 1808 | 610 | 23 |Delaware, | 24 _n. _ Fairfield, | 1800 | 540 | 14 |Lancaster, | 28 _s. E. _ Fayette, | 1810 | 415 | 7 |Washington, | 38 _s. W. _ Franklin, | 1803 | 520 | 18 |COLUMBUS, | Gallia, | 1803 | 500 | 15 |Gallipolis, |102 _s. S. E. _ Geauga, | 1805 | 600 | 23 |Chardon, |157 _n. E. _ Greene, | 1803 | 400 | 8 |Xenia, | 56 _w. S. W. _ Guernsey, | 1810 | 621 | 19 |Cambridge, | 76 _e. _ Hamilton, | 1790 | 400 | 14 |Cincinnati, |110 _s. W. _ Hancock, | 1828 | 576 | 5 |Findlay, | 90 _n. N. W. _ Hardin, | 1833 | 570 | -- |Kenton, | 70 _n. N. W. _ Harrison, | 1813 |[A]-- | 13 |Cadiz, |124 _e. N. E. _ Henry, | -- | 744 | 2 |Napoleon, |161 _n. W. _ Highland, | 1805 | 555 | 11 |Hillsborough, | 62 _s. S. W. _ Hocking, | 1818 | 432 | 9 |Logan, | 46 _s. S. E. _ Holmes, | 1825 | 422 | 14 |Millersburg, | 81 _n. E. _ Huron, | 1815 | 800 | 29 |Norwalk, |106 _n. _ Jackson, | 1816 | 490 | 13 |Jackson, | 73 _s. S. E. _ Jefferson, | 1797 | 400 | 13 |Steubenville, |147 _e. N. E. _ Knox, | 1808 | 618 | 24 |Mount Vernon, | 47 _n. N. E. _ Lawrence, | 1817 | 430 | 12 |Burlington, |130 _s. S. E. _ Licking, | 1808 | 666 | 25 |Newark, | 33 _e. N. E. _ Logan, | 1818 | 425 | 9 |Bellefontaine, | 50 _n. W. _ Lorain, | 1824 | 580 | 19 |Elyria, |130 _n. N. E. _ Lucas, [B] | 1835 | | -- |Toledo, |150 _n. N. W. _ Madison, | 1810 | 480 | 10 |London, | 25 _w. S. W. _ Marion, | 1824 | 527 | 15 |Marion, | 45 _n. _ Medina, | 1818 | 475 | 14 |Medina, |110 _n. N. E. _ Meigs, | 1819 | 400 | 12 |Chester, | 94 _s. S. E. _ Mercer, | 1824 | 576 | 4 |St Mary's, |111 _n. W. _ Miami, | 1807 | 410 | 12 |Troy, | 68 _n. Of w. _ Monroe, | 1815 | 563 | 18 |Woodsfield, |120 _e. S. E. _ Montgomery, | 1803 | 480 | 12 |Dayton, | 68 _w. _ Morgan, | 1819 | 500 | 15 |M'Connelsville, | 75 _s. E. _ Muskingum, | 1804 | 665 | 23 |Zanesville, | 52 _e. _ Paulding, [C]| -- | 432 | 3 | |170 _n. W. _ Perry, | 1818 | 402 | 12 |Somerset, | 46 _e. S. E. _ Pickaway, | 1810 | 470 | 14 |Circleville, | 26 _s. _ Pike, | 1815 | 421 | 9 |Piketon, | 64 _s. _ Portage, | 1807 | 750 | 30 |Ravenna, |135 _n. E. _ Preble, | 1808 | 432 | 12 |Eaton, | 50 _w. _ Putnam, [C] | -- | 576 | 2 | |148 _n. W. _ Richland, | 1813 | 900 | 25 |Mansfield, | 74 _n. N. E_ Ross, | 1798 | 650 | 16 |Chillicothe, | 45 _s. _ Sandusky, | 1820 | 600 | 10 |Lower Sandusky, |105 _n. _ Scioto, | 1803 | 700 | 14 |Portsmouth, | 90 _s. _ Seneca, | 1824 | 540 | 11 |Tiffin, | 87 _n. _ Shelby, | 1819 | 418 | 10 |Sidney, | 70 _n. W. _ Stark, | 1809 | [A] | 16 |Canton, |116 _n. E. _ Trumbull, | 1800 | 875 | 34 |Warren, |160 _n. E. _ Tuscarawas, | 1808 | [A] | 19 |New Philadelphia, |100 _e. N. E. _ Union, | 1820 | 450 | 9 |Marysville, | 30 _n. W. _ Vanwert, [C] | -- | 432 | -- | |100 _n. W. _ Warren, | 1803 | 400 | 9 |Lebanon, | 80 _s. W. _ Washington, | 1788 | 713 | 19 |Marietta, |106 _s. E. _ Wayne, | 1812 | 660 | 20 |Wooster, | 89 _n. E. _ Williams, | 1824 | 600 | 10 |Defiance, |130 _n. W. _ Wood, | 1820 | 750 | 7 |Perrysburg, |135 _n. W. _

 [A] Carroll county has been formed from Columbiana, Harrison, Stark and Tuscarawas since the edition of the Ohio Gazetteer of 1833 was published, from which the foregoing table has been constructed. Hence the townships in each are not given. 

 [B] Lucas county has been recently formed from parts taken from Sandusky and Wood counties, and from the disputed country claimed by Michigan. 

 [C] Paulding, Putnam, and Vanwert counties had not been organized at the period of our information. Much of the land in Vanwert is wet. The southern portion contains much swampy prairie. 

There are nineteen congressional districts in Ohio, which elect as manymembers of Congress, and twelve circuits for Courts of Common Pleas. 

_Face of the Country. _--The interior and northern parts of the Statebordering on lake Erie, are generally level, and, in some places, wetand marshy. The eastern and south-eastern parts bordering on the Ohioriver, are hilly and broken, but not mountainous. In some counties thehills are abrupt and broken, --in others they form ridges, and arecultivated to their summits. Immediately on the banks of the Ohio andother large rivers are strips of rich alluvion soil. 

The country along the Scioto and two Miamies, furnish more extensivebodies of rich, fertile land, than any other part of the State. Theprairie land is found in small tracts near the head waters of theMuskingum and Scioto, and between the sources of the two Miami rivers, and especially in the north-western part of the State. Many of theprairies in Ohio are low and wet;--some are elevated and dry, andexhibit the features of those tracts called "barrens" in Illinois. Thereare extensive plains, some of which are wet, towards Sandusky. 

_Soil and Productions. _--The soil, in at least three fourths of theState, is fertile;--and some of it very rich. The _poorest_ portion ofOhio, is along the Ohio river, from 15 to 25 miles in width, andextending from the National road opposite Wheeling, to the mouth of theScioto river. Many of the hills in this region are rocky. 

Among the forest trees are oak of various species, white and blackwalnut, hickory, maple of different kinds, beech, poplar, ash of severalkinds, birch, buckeye, cherry, chestnut, locust, elm, hackberry, sycamore, linden, with numerous others. Amongst the under growth arespice-bush, dogwood, ironwood, pawpaw, hornbeam, black-haw, thorn, wildplum, grape vines, &c. The plains and wet prairies produce wild grass. 

The agricultural productions are such as are common to the Eastern andMiddle States. Indian corn, as in other Western States, is a staplegrain, raised with much ease, and in great abundance. More than 100bushels are produced from an acre, on the rich alluvial soils of thebottom lands, though from 40 to 50 bushels per acre ought to beconsidered an average crop. The State generally has a fine soil forwheat, and flour is produced for exportation in great quantities. Rye, oats, buckwheat, barley, potatoes, melons, pumpkins, and all manner ofgarden vegetables, are cultivated to great perfection. No markets in theUnited States are more profusely and cheaply supplied with meat andvegetables than those of Cincinnati and other large towns in Ohio. Hempis produced to some extent, and the choicest kinds of tobacco is raisedand cured in some of the counties east of the Muskingum river. Fruits ofall kinds are raised in great plenty, especially apples, which grow toa large size, and are finely flavored. The vine and the mulberry havebeen introduced, and with enterprise and industry, wine and silk mighteasily be added to its exports. 

_Animals. _--Bears, wolves, and deer are still found in the forests andunsettled portions of the State. The domestic animals are similar toother States. Swine is one of the staple productions, and Cincinnati hasbeen denominated the "pork market of the world. " Other towns in thewest, and in Ohio, are beginning to receive a share of this trade, especially along the lines of the Miami, and the Erie canals. 150, 000hogs have been slaughtered and prepared for market in one season inCincinnati. About 75, 000 is the present estimated number, from newspaperauthority. Immense droves of fat cattle are sent every autumn from theScioto valley and other parts of the State. They are driven to all themarkets of the east and south. 

_Minerals. _--The mineral deposits of Ohio, as yet discovered, consistprincipally in iron, salt, and bituminous coal, and are found chieflyalong the south-eastern portion of the State. Let a line be drawn fromthe south-eastern part of Ashtabula county, in a south-westerndirection, by Northampton in Portage county, Wooster, Mount Vernon, Granville, Circleville, to Hillsborough, and thence south to the Ohioriver in Brown county, and it would leave most of the salt, iron andcoal on the eastern and south-eastern side. 

_Financial Statistics. _--From the Auditor's Report to the Legislaturenow in session, (Jan. 1836, ) the following items are extracted. Thegeneral revenue is obtained from moderate taxes on landed and personalproperty, and collected by the county treasurers, --from insurance, bankand bridge companies, from lawyers and physicians, &c. 

Collected in 1835, by the several county treasurers, $150, 080, (omittingfractions): paid by banks, bridges, and insurance companies, $26, 060;--by lawyers, and physicians, $1, 598;--other sources, $24, 028, --making an aggregate of $201, 766. The disbursementsare, --amount of deficit for 1834, $16, 622;--bills redeemed at thetreasury for the year ending Nov. 1835, $182, 005;--interest paid onschool funds, $33, 101, &c. , amounting to $235, 365--and showing a deficitin the revenue of $33, 590. 

CANAL FUNDS. 

These appear to be separate accounts from the general receipts anddisbursements. 

_Miami Canal. _--The amount of money arising from the sales of Miamicanal lands up to the 15th of Nov. , 1835, is $310, 178. This sum has beenexpended in the extension of the canal north of Dayton. 

_Ohio Canal. _--The amount of taxes collected for canal purposes for theyear 1835, including tolls, sales of canal lands, school lands, balanceremaining in the treasury of last year, &c. , is $509, 322. Only $38, 242of the general revenue were appropriated to canal purposes, of which$35, 507 went to pay interest on the school funds borrowed by the State. 

The foreign debt is $4, 400, 000;--the legal interest of which is $260, 000per annum. The domestic debt of the State, arising from investing thedifferent school funds, is $579, 287;--the interest of which amounts to$34, 757, --making an aggregate annual interest paid by the State onloans, $294, 757. The canal tolls for the year 1835, amount to $242, 357, and the receipts from the sale of Ohio canal lands, $64, 549, --making anaggregate income to the canal fund of $306, 906 per annum;--a sum morethan sufficient to pay the interest on all loans for canal purposes. 

_Items of Expenditure. _--Under this head the principal items of theexpenditures of the State government are given. 

 Members, and officers of the General Assembly, per annum, $43, 987 Officers of government, 20, 828 Keeper of the Penitentiary, 1, 909 For new Penitentiary buildings, 46, 050 State printing, 12, 243 Paper and Stationary for use of the State, 4, 478 Certificates for wolf scalps, 2, 824 Adjutant, and Quarter Master Generals, and Brigade Inspectors, 2, 276 Treasurer's mileage on settlement with the Auditor of State, 1, 027 Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 5, 700 Periodical works, &c. 400 Postage on documents, 545 Reporter to Court in Bank, 300 Members and clerks of the Board of Equalization, and articles furnished, 1, 960 Paymaster General, --Ohio Militia, 2, 000

The extra session of the legislature on the boundary line, in June, 1835, was $6, 823. 

_Land Taxes. _--The amount of lands taxed, and the revenue arisingtherefrom, at several different periods, are herewith given, to show theprogressive advance of the farming and other interests of the State. 

 --------+------------+---------------- Years. | Acres. | Taxes paid. --------+------------+---------------- 1809 | 9, 924, 033 | $63, 991. 87 cts 1810 | 10, 479, 029 | 67, 501. 60 1811 | 12, 134, 777 | 170, 546. 74

From 1811 to 1816, the average increase of the taxes, paid by theseveral counties, was $59, 351. From 1816 the State rose rapidly in thescale of prosperity and the value of property. In 1820, the number ofacres returned as taxable, exceeded a fraction of 13 millions, while theaggregate of taxes, was $205, 346. 

The period of depression and embarrassment that followed throughout thewest, prevented property from advancing in Ohio. In 1826, '27, '28, '29, '30, a material change in the amount of property taxable took place, from a few hundred thousands, to more than fifty millions. The totalvalue of taxable property of the State for 1835, (exclusive of threecounties from which returns had not been received, ) amounts to the sumof _ninety-four millions, four hundred and thirty-seven thousand, ninehundred and fifty-one dollars_. 

_School Funds. _--The amount of school funds loaned to the State, up toNov. 15th, 1835, is--

 Virginia Military land fund, $109, 937 United States Military land fund, 90, 126 Common School fund, 23, 179 Athens University, 1, 431 School section, No. 16, 453, 000 Connecticut Western Reserve, 125, 758 -------- Total, $803, 432

The following tabular view of the acres of land, total amount of taxableproperty, and total amount of taxes paid for 1833, is taken from theOhio Gazetteer. It should be noted that in all the Western States, landspurchased of the government of the United States, are exempted fromtaxation for _five_ years after sale. It is supposed that such lands arenot included in the table. I have also placed the population of eachcounty for 1830, from the census of that year;--reminding the readerthat great changes have since been made. 

 -----------------+------------+-------------+--------------+--------------- | | | Total Amount | | Population | Acres of | of taxable | Total Amount Counties. | 1830. | land. | property. | of Taxes paid. -----------------+------------+-------------+--------------+--------------- Adams | 12, 231 | 234, 822 | $832, 565 | $6, 995. 41 Allen | 578 | 14, 159 | 51, 214 | 725. 28 Ashtabula | 14, 584 | 449, 742 | 1, 347, 900 | 13, 524. 97 Athens | 9, 787 | 365, 348 | 481, 579 | 5, 820. 90 Belmont | 28, 627 | 301, 511 | 1, 591, 716 | 11, 590. 33 Brown | 17, 867 | 267, 130 | 1, 358, 944 | 8, 179. 35 Butler | 27, 142 | 257, 989 | 2, 514, 007 | 20, 111. 55 Carroll | ---- | 185, 942 | 529, 575 | 6, 876. 92 Champaign | 12, 131 | 233, 493 | 908, 571 | 5, 956. 66 Clark | 13, 114 | 247, 083 | 1, 114, 995 | 7, 744. 89 Clermont | 20, 466 | 280, 679 | 1, 542, 627 | 15, 645. 31 Clinton | 11, 436 | 239, 404 | 785, 770 | 6, 482. 14 Columbiana | 35, 592 | 317, 796 | 1, 491, 099 | 14, 217. 28 Coshocton | 11, 161 | 246, 123 | 850, 708 | 9, 307. 28 Crawford | 4, 791 | 79, 582 | 217, 675 | 3, 630. 09 Cuyahoga | 10, 373 | 292, 252 | 1, 401, 591 | 18, 122. 96 Dark | 6, 204 | 107, 730 | 260, 259 | 3, 312. 81 Delaware | 11, 504 | 338, 856 | 831, 093 | 8, 516. 66 Fairfield | 24, 786 | 308, 163 | 1, 992, 697 | 13, 716. 97 Fayette | 8, 182 | 234, 432 | 544, 539 | 6, 428. 98 Franklin | 14, 741 | 325, 155 | 1, 663, 315 | 13, 247. 34 Gallia | 9, 733 | 205, 727 | 427, 962 | 4, 826. 55 Geauga | 15, 813 | 381, 380 | 1, 427, 869 | 15, 832. 65 Greene | 14, 801 | 251, 512 | 1, 441, 907 | 12, 082. 36 Guernsey | 18, 036 | 275, 652 | 908, 109 | 9, 855. 72 Hamilton | 52, 317 | 239, 122 | 7, 726, 091 | 97, 530. 42 Hancock | 813 | 9, 302 | 50, 929 | 421. 70 Harden | 210 | 125, 607 | 118, 425 | 1, 291. 43 Harrison | 20, 916 | 22, 412 | 1, 025, 210 | 12, 400. 97 Highland | 16, 345 | 317, 079 | 1, 065, 863 | 8, 755. 29 Hocking | 4, 008 | 92, 332 | 215, 272 | 1, 919. 29 Holmes | 9, 135 | 182, 439 | 556, 060 | 6, 364. 03 Huron | 13, 346 | 504, 689 | 1, 512, 655 | 15, 490. 88 Jackson | 5, 941 | 57, 874 | 197, 932 | 2, 239. 69 Jefferson | 22, 489 | 230, 145 | 1, 855, 064 | 13, 149. 44 Knox | 17, 085 | 313, 823 | 1, 252, 294 | 13, 329. 41 Lawrence | 5, 367 | 56, 862 | 241, 782 | 2, 280. 80 Licking | 20, 869 | 393, 205 | 2, 101, 495 | 17, 370. 83 Logan | 6, 440 | 203, 509 | 519, 622 | 3, 925. 65 Lorain | 5, 696 | 360, 863 | 889, 552 | 10, 539. 09 Madison | 6, 190 | 256, 421 | 600, 578 | 4, 643. 91 Marion | 6, 551 | 168, 164 | 390, 602 | 5, 599. 78 Medina | 7, 560 | 296, 257 | 931, 599 | 10, 198. 31 Meigs | 6, 158 | 229, 004 | 380, 172 | 5, 111. 58 Mercer | 1, 110 | 12, 688 | 54, 118 | 714. 30 Miami | 12, 807 | 240, 093 | 1, 000, 748 | 6, 423. 09 Monroe | 8, 768 | 95, 520 | 280, 572 | 3, 666. 61 Montgomery | 24, 362 | 267, 349 | 2, 293, 419 | 14, 649. 12 Morgan | 11, 800 | 169, 135 | 452, 991 | 4, 945. 02 Muskingum | 29, 334 | 366, 609 | 2, 362, 616 | 18, 567. 75 Perry | 13, 970 | 175, 123 | 729, 241 | 6, 116. 55 Pickaway | 16, 001 | 300, 969 | 1, 798, 665 | 10, 924. 76 Pike | 6, 024 | 129, 153 | 521, 109 | 4, 114. 37 Portage | 18, 826 | 472, 156 | 2, 019, 029 | 17, 787. 06 Preble | 16, 291 | 246, 678 | 1, 086, 322 | 7, 441. 82 Richland | 24, 008 | 433, 620 | 1, 354, 169 | 15, 069. 92 Ross | 24, 068 | 328, 765 | 2, 897, 605 | 17, 474. 81 Sandusky | 2, 851 | 95, 822 | 275, 992 | 3, 354. 64 Scioto | 8, 740 | 105, 539 | 963, 882 | 7, 926. 93 Seneca | 6, 159 | 108, 758 | 302, 089 | 3, 916. 51 Stark | 26, 588 | 374, 101 | 1, 854, 967 | 16, 361. 36 Shelby | 3, 671 | 66, 863 | 194, 468 | 1, 961. 26 Trumbull | 26, 123 | 556, 011 | 1, 807, 792 | 16, 635. 58 Tuscarawas | 14, 298 | 237, 337 | 902, 778 | 8, 955. 75 Union | 3, 192 | 259, 101 | 380, 535 | 5, 193. 68 Warren | 21, 468 | 243, 517 | 2, 143, 065 | 16, 247. 33 Washington | 11, 731 | 282, 498 | 681, 301 | 7, 463. 12 Wayne | 23, 333 | 382, 254 | 1, 451, 996 | 14, 584. 77 Williams and | } 1, 089 | 17, 797 | 90, 066 | 1, 351. 02 others not incor. | } | | | Wood | 1, 102 | 17, 981 | 127, 862 | 1, 572. 22 -----------------+------------+-------------+--------------+--------------- Total | 937, 903 | 17, 133, 481 | 78, 019, 526 | 730, 010. 75

OHIO STATISTICS--1836. 

From the Annual Report of the Auditor of State, it appears there werereturned on the General List for Taxation, 17, 819, 631 acres of land, under the new valuation, made under the law of 1833-4. 

 Lands, including buildings, valued at $58, 166, 821 Town Lots, including houses, mills, etc. 15, 762, 594 269, 291 Horses, valued at $40 each, 10, 491, 640 455, 487 Cattle, valued at $8 each, 4, 043, 896 Merchants' capital, and money at interest, 7, 262, 927 2, 603 Pleasure Carriages, valued at 199, 518 ----------- Total amount of taxable property, $94, 438, 016

On the value of taxable property, the following taxes were levied:

 State and Canal tax, $142, 854. 15 County and School tax, 396, 505. 80 Road tax, 66, 482. 16 Township tax, 102, 991. 65 Corporation, Jail, and Bridge tax, 51, 276. 89 Physicians' and Lawyers' tax, 3, 144. 19 School-House tax, 1, 482. 84 Delinquencies of former years, 13, 044. 37 ----------- Total taxes, $777, 782. 07

No returns were made from the counties of Crawford, Hancock, Jeffersonand Williams. 

CANAL REVENUES. 

The total amount of receipts for tolls, for the year ending on the 31stof October, 1835, was as follows:

OHIO CANAL. 

 Cleaveland, $72, 718. 72 | Newark, $20, 487. 85 Akron, 6, 362. 90 | Columbus, 4, 605. 37 Massillon, 13, 585. 78 | Circleville, 9, 651. 44 Dover, 8, 096. 42 | Chillicothe, 12, 134. 75 Roscoe, 14, 555. 83 | Portsmouth, 23, 118. 78 ---------- ---------- 115, 319. 45 $69, 998. 00 115, 319. 45 ----------- Total, $185, 317. 45

MIAMI CANAL. 

 Dayton, 14, 016. 75 Middleton, 8, 747. 19 Hamilton, 3, 664. 88 Cincinnati, 25, 803. 77 ---------- Total, 52, 232. 59 ---------- Total tolls received on both canals, $237, 550. 04 Deduct contingent expenses on Ohio canal, $5, 836. 05 Do. On Miami canal, 2, 954. 68--8, 790. 73 ------------ $228, 759. 31

 Toll received on Lancaster Lat. Canal, 1, 062. 56 From water rents and sale of State Lots, 3, 700. 07 Arrearages paid of Tolls received in October, 1834, 7, 835. 26 ----------- $242, 357. 20

POPULATION OF OHIO AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 

 In Population. | From Increase. 1790, about 3, 000 | 1790 to 1800, 42, 365 1800, " 45, 365 | 1800 " 1810, 185, 395 1810, " 230, 760 | 1810 " 1820, 350, 674 1820, " 581, 434 | 1820 " 1830, 356, 469 1830, " 937, 903 | 1830 " 1835, 437, 097 1835, _estimated_, 1, 375, 000 |

_Rivers. _--The streams which flow into the Ohio river, are the Mahoningabranch of the Beaver, Little Beaver, Muskingum, Hockhocking, Scioto, Little Miami, and Great Miami. Those which flow from the northward intolake Erie, are the Maumee, Portage, Sandusky, Huron, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula. Hence the State is divided into two unequal inclinedplanes, the longest of which slopes towards the Ohio, and the shortesttowards the lake. The head waters of the Muskingum, Scioto and Miami, interlock with those of the Cuyahoga, Sandusky, and Maumee, so as torender the construction of canals not only practicable, butcomparatively easy. All the large streams are now navigable for boatsduring the spring season. 

_Internal Improvements. _--These consist of canals, rail-roads, turnpikeroads, and the National road, now under the supervision of, and ownedby, the State. The canalling is managed by a Board of Commissioners. TheState canals were projected about 1823, and, considering the youthfulcharacter of the State, its want of funds and other circumstances, theyare, undoubtedly, the greatest works ever executed in America. 

The _Ohio and Erie Canal_ connects lake Erie with the Ohio river. Itcommences at Cleaveland, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, passes along thatriver and its tributaries, to the summit level, from thence to thewaters of the Muskingum, and to the border of Muskingum county; fromthence it strikes across the country past Newark, in Licking county, andstrikes the Scioto, down the valley of which it proceeds to its mouth, at Portsmouth. The principal places on the canal are Akron, New Portage, Massillon, Bolivar, New Philadelphia, Coshocton, Newark, Bloomfield, Circleville, Chillicothe, Piketon, and Portsmouth. It was commenced onthe 4th of July, 1825, and completed in 1832; and, together with theMiami canal to Dayton, cost about $5, 500, 000, and has greatly enrichedthe State and the people. Private property along its line has risen fromfive to ten fold. 

LENGTH OF OHIO AND ERIE CANAL. 

 Miles. Main trunk from Cleaveland to Portsmouth, 310 Navigable feeder from main trunk to Columbus, 11 Navigable feeder from main trunk to Granville, 6 Muskingum side cut, from the Muskingum river at Dresden, 3 Navigable feeder from the Tuscarawas river, 3 Navigable feeder from the Walhonding river, 1 --- Total length of Ohio canal and branches, 334

The _Miami Canal_ commences at Cincinnati, and, passing through thetowns of Reading, Hamilton, Middletown, Franklin, and Miamisburg, terminates at Dayton, 65 miles. It has been navigated from Dayton to thehead of Main street, Cincinnati, since the spring of 1829. An extensionof the work is now in progress, to be carried along the vallies of St. Mary's and Au Glaise rivers, and unite with the Wabash and Erie canal, at Defiance; distance from Cincinnati about 190 miles. 

An act passed the Ohio legislature in 1834, for continuing the Wabashand Erie canal, (now constructing in Indiana, by that State, ) from thewestern boundary of Ohio, to the Maumee bay. Operations have beensuspended by the boundary dispute with Michigan. 

The _Mahoning and Beaver Canal_ has already been noticed, under the headof Western Pennsylvania. It is proposed to carry it from Akron, on thePortage summit, along the valley of the Mahoning river, to Newcastle, onthe Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal. Distance in Ohio, 77miles. The work is in progress. 

The _Sandy Creek and Little Beaver Canal_ is in progress by a charteredcompany. It commences near the town of Bolivar, on the Ohio and Eriecanal, in Tuscarawas county, and passes along near the line of Stark andCarroll counties to the Little Beaver in Columbiana county, and fromthence to the Ohio river. 

The _Mad River and Sandusky Rail-Road_ will extend from Dayton, on theMiami canal, to Sandusky, through Springfield, Urbanna, Bellefontaine, Upper Sandusky, Tiffin, and down the valley of the Sandusky river tolake Erie. The route is remarkably favorable for locomotive power. Length 153 miles; estimated cost, $11, 000 per mile. The work wascommenced in September, 1835. 

The _Erie and Ohio Rail-Road_ is intended to be constructed fromAshtabula on the lake, through Warren to Wellsville, on the Ohio river, a distance of 90 miles. Other rail-roads are in contemplation in thisState, the most important of which is the _Great Western Rail-Road_, from Boston, by Worcester, Springfield, and Stockbridge, through NewYork, by Albany, Utica and Buffalo, along the summit ridge, dividing thenorthern from the southern waters, through Pennsylvania, Ohio, tointersect the Wabash and Erie canal at La Fayette, in Indiana. Fromthence provision is already made for it to pass to the eastern boundaryof Illinois, from which, a company has been recently chartered toconstruct it across the State of Illinois by Danville, Shelbyville, Hillsborough, to Alton on the Mississippi. It must be some untowardcircumstance that shall prevent this splendid work from being completedthe whole length before 1850. 

The project of a rail-road from Cincinnati, to Charleston in SouthCarolina, has been entered upon with great spirit in the South, and inall the States more directly concerned in the enterprise. It will, undoubtedly, be carried into effect. 

The State of Ohio has incorporated a number of turnpike companies, someof which have gone into operation. The first is near the north-easterncorner of the State, from Pierpont, through Monroe and Salem townshipsto the mouth of Conneant creek, 16 miles long. The second is theTrumbull and Ashtabula turnpike, leading from Warren to Ashtabula, 48miles. The third is from the town of Wooster, through Medina, toCleaveland, 51 miles. The fourth is from Columbus to Sandusky, 106miles, now in the course of construction. Another from Cincinnati, through Lebanon and Columbus, to Wooster, has been commenced on theMcAdamized plan, but is not completed. A McAdam turnpike from Cincinnatito Chillicothe is in progress. The National road, constructed by thegeneral government, and transferred to the State, passes from Wheeling, through Columbus to the Indiana line. 

_Manufactures. _--The principal factory for woollen goods is atSteubenville. A number of cotton factories are in the towns along theOhio river. Furnaces for smelting iron ore are in operation in thecounties bordering on the Ohio, near the mouth of the Scioto. Glass ismanufactured in several towns. Considerable salt is made on theMuskingum below Zanesville, on the Scioto, and on Yellow creek aboveSteubenville. About half a million of bushels were made in the State in1830. 

Cincinnati rivals Pittsburg in the number, variety and extent of itsmanufacturing operations. 

In every town and village through the State, mechanics' shops areestablished for the manufacture of all articles of ordinary use. 

_Cities and Towns. _--To enter upon minute descriptions, or even name allthese, would much exceed the bounds of this work. 

CINCINNATI is the great commercial emporium of the State. It ispleasantly situated on the right or northern bank of the Ohio river, about equidistant from Pittsburg and its mouth, in N. Lat. 39° 06', andW. Lon. From Washington city 7° 25'. 

Directly fronting the city to the south, and on the opposite side of theOhio river, are the flourishing manufacturing towns of Newport andCovington, which are separated by the Licking river, of Kentucky, whichenters the Ohio directly opposite the Cincinnati landing. 

The wharf arrangements are the most convenient, for lading and unladinggoods at all stages of the water, to be found on our western rivers. Thetown site is beautifully situated on the first and second banks of theriver--the former of which is above ordinary high water, and the lattergently rises sixty or seventy feet higher, and spreads out into asemicircular plain, surrounded with elevated bluffs. 

Cincinnati was founded in 1789, but did not grow rapidly till about1808. The progressive increase of population will appear from thefollowing table:

 1810, 2, 320 | 1826, 16, 230 1813, 4, 000 | 1830, 26, 515 1819, 10, 000 | 1835, _estimated_, 31, 000 1824, 12, 016 |

Add the adjoining towns of Covington and Newport, whose interests areidentified, and the aggregate population will equal 35, 000; and, in allreasonable probability, in 1850, these towns, with Cincinnati, willnumber 100, 000 active, educated, and enterprising citizens. In 1826, according to the Picture of Cincinnati, by B. Drake, Esq. And E. D. Mansfield, Esq. , the manufacturing industry alone, according to anaccurate statistical examination, amounted to 1, 800, 000 dollars. At thattime there were not more than fifteen steam engines employed inmanufactures in the city. At the close of 1835, there were more thanfifty in successful operation, besides four or five in Newport andCovington. "More than 100 steam engines, about 240 cotton gins, upwardsof 20 sugar-mills, and 22 steamboats--many of them of the largestsize--have been built or manufactured in Cincinnati, during the year1835. "[10] Hence the productive industry of Cincinnati, Covington andNewport, for 1835, may be estimated at 5, 000, 000 of dollars. By alaborious investigation, at the close of 1826, by the same writer, theexports of that year were about 1, 000, 000 of dollars in value. A similarinquiry induced him to place the exports of 1832 at 4, 000, 000. Theestimate for 1835, is 6, 000, 000. 

To enumerate all the public and private edifices deserving notice, wouldextend this article to too great a length. The court house, four markethouses, banks, college, Catholic Athenæum, two medical colleges, Mechanics' Institute, two museums, hospital and Lunatics' Asylum, Woodward high school, ten or twelve large edifices for free schools, hotels, and between twenty-five and thirty houses for public worship, some of which are elegant, deserve notice. The type foundry andprinting-press manufactory, is one of the most extensive in the UnitedStates. Here is machinery, lately invented, for casting printer's types, exceeding, perhaps, anything in the world. Printing, and the manufactureof books, are extensively carried on in this city. Here are six largebookstores, several binderies, twelve or fifteen printing-offices, fromwhich are issued ten weekly, four triweekly, four daily, four monthly, and one quarterly publications. Two medical publications, of a highlyrespectable character, are issued. The Western Monthly Magazine is toowell known to need special notice here. The Cincinnati Mirror is arespectable literary periodical. The Presbyterians, Baptists, Methodists, Roman Catholics, and, perhaps, other sects, have each theirweekly paper, respectable in size and character. During four months, in1831, there were issued from the Cincinnati press, 86, 000 volumes, ofwhich 20, 300 were original works. In the same period, the periodicalpress issued 243, 200 printed sheets. The business has increased greatlysince that time. 

The "_College of Professional Teachers_, " is an institution formed atthe convention of teachers, held in this city, in October, 1832. Itsobjects are to _unite_ the professional instructers of youth throughoutthe Western country in the cause in which they are engaged, and toelevate the character of the profession. Their meetings are held on thefirst Monday in October annually. Lectures are given, discussions held, reports made, and a respectable volume of transactions publishedannually. There is no doubt that much good will result to the cause ofeducation in the West, from this annual convocation. 

_Law School. _--An institution of this character has been organized, under the management of Hon. J. C. Wright, and other gentlemen of thebar. 

Of _Medical Schools_ there are two, at the heads of which are gentlemenof high character and attainments in their profession. 

The _Mechanics' Institute_ is designed for the diffusion of scientificknowledge among the mechanics and citizens generally, by means ofpopular lectures and mutual instruction. The _Cincinnati Lyceum_ wasformed for the purpose of useful instruction and entertainment, by meansof popular lectures and debates. The _Academic Institute_ is designed toaid the cause of education, and elevate the profession, amongst theteachers in Cincinnati. Its meetings are monthly. The _Athenæum_ is aninstitution under the management of Roman Catholic Priests. The collegeedifice is a splendid and permanent building, of great capacity. The_Woodward High School_ was founded by the late William Woodward. Thefund yields an income of about $2000 annually. It is conducted by fourprofessors, and has about one hundred and twenty students. Thecorporation has established a system of free schools, designed to extendthe benefits of primary education to all classes, and ten or twelvelarge edifices have been erected for the purpose. I regret the want ofdocuments to give particulars of this liberal and praiseworthyenterprise, which reflects much honor upon the city and its honorablecorporation. In 1833, there were twenty public schools for males andfemales, and two thousand pupils. Many excellent private schools andseminaries, some of deserved celebrity, are sustained by individualenterprise. 

COLUMBUS, the political capital of the State, and nearly in thecentre of the State, is a beautiful city, on the east bank of the Sciotoriver. In 1812, it was covered with a dense forest, when it was selectedby the legislature for the permanent seat of government. The publicbuildings are a state house, a court house for the Supreme Court, abuilding for the public offices, a market house, &c. , all of brick. TheState penitentiary is here, for which a new substantial building isconstructing, and an Asylum for the deaf and dumb, sustained bylegislative aid. 

Chillicothe, Cleaveland, Zanesville, Steubenville, Circleville and manyothers, are large and flourishing towns. 

_Education. _--Charters for eight or ten colleges and collegiateinstitutions have been granted. Congress has granted 92, 800 acres ofpublic land to this State, for colleges and academies. One township, (23, 040 acres, ) and a very valuable one, has been given to the MiamiUniversity, at Oxford. Two townships of land, (46, 080 acres, ) though ofinferior quality, have been given to the Ohio University. Academies havebeen established in most of the principal towns. A common school systemhas been established by the legislature. Each township has been dividedinto school districts. Taxes are levied to the amount of three fourthsof a mill upon the dollar of taxable property in the State, which, withthe interest accruing from the different school funds already noticed, are applied towards the expenses of tuition. Five school examiners areappointed in each county, by the Court of Common Pleas, who are toexamine teachers. The governor, in his recent Message, speaks of thecommon school system as languishing in proportion to other improvements. 

_Form of Government. _--The legislative authority is vested in a Senateand House of Representatives; both of which, collectively, are styledthe General Assembly. The members of both branches are chosen bycounties, or by districts composed of counties, according to population. The representatives are chosen annually; the senators biennially. TheGeneral Assembly has the sole power of enacting laws; the signature orassent of the governor not being necessary in any case whatever. Thejudiciary system comprises three grades of courts:--the Supreme Court, Courts of Common Pleas, and Justices' Courts. The justices of the peaceare chosen triennially, by the people. The executive authority is vestedin a governor, who is elected biennially, and must be thirty years ofage, and have resided in the State at least four years. He iscommander-in-chief of all the militia, and commissions all officers inthe State, both civil and military. Each free, white, male citizen ofthe United States, of twenty-one years of age, and a resident of theState one year preceding an election, is entitled to a vote in allelections. 

The following shows the professions, occupations, and nativity of themembers of the legislature of Ohio, during the present winter, (1835-6, )and is about a proportionate estimate for other Western States:--

The members of the Ohio legislature, as to their occupations andprofessions, are:--farmers, 53; lawyers, 17; merchants, 13; doctors, 5;printers, 3; surveyors, 2; millers, 2; masons, 2; carpenters, 2;painter, 1; watch-maker, 1; blacksmith, 1; house joiner, 1. 

Their nativity is as follows:--Ohio, 7; Pennsylvania, 30; Virginia, 22;New England States, 17; Maryland, 8; New York, 7; New Jersey, 4;Kentucky, 3; Delaware, 2; North Carolina, 1; Ireland, 5; England, 1;Germany, 1. 

The youngest member in the Senate, is 33 years of age, and the oldest56. In the House, the youngest 26; oldest 67. Under the Constitution, asenator must be 30; and a member of the House, 26. 

_Antiquities. _--Much has been said about the antiquities of Ohio, --thefortifications, artificial mounds, and military works, supposed toindicate a race of civilized people, as the possessors of the country, anterior to the Indian nations. At Marietta, Circleville, Paint Creek, and some other places, are, doubtless, antiquities, that exhibited, upontheir first discovery, strong marks of a military purpose. I have nodoubt, however, that credulity and enthusiasm have greatly exaggeratedmany appearances in the West, and magnified them into works of vastenterprise and labor. Mounds of earth are found in every country on theglobe, of all forms and sizes; and why should they not exist in thewestern valley? Mr. Flint states that he has seen a horse shoe dug up atthe depth of thirty-five feet below the surface, with nails in it, andmuch eroded by rust. He mentions also a sword, which is _said_ to bepreserved as a curiosity, but which he had not seen, found enclosed inthe wood of the roots of a tree, which could not have been less thanfive hundred years old! Those who delight especially in the marvellous, may consult the "Description of the Antiquities discovered in the Stateof Ohio, and other Western States, by Caleb Atwater, Esq. "

_History. _--The first permanent settlement of Ohio, was made atMarietta, on the 7th day of April, 1788, by 47 persons fromMassachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. This was the nucleusaround which has grown up the populous State of Ohio. Amongst the mostactive promoters of this colony, were those called then "The OhioCompany. " The next settlement was that of Symmes' purchase, made atColumbia, six miles above Cincinnati, in Nov. 1789, by Major Stiles andtwenty-five others, under the direction of Judge Symmes. A colony ofFrench emigrants settled at Gallipolis in 1791. In 1796 settlements weremade by New England emigrants at Cleaveland and Conneant, on thesouthern shore of lake Erie. The intermediate country gradually filledup by emigration from various parts of the United States. Some slightdiversity exists, in different sections of the State, in manners, customs, and feelings, amongst the people, in accordance with the Statesor countries from which they or their fathers emigrated. These shades ofcharacter will become blended, and the next generation will be_Ohians_, or, to use their own native cognomen, _Buckeyes_. 

In Sept. , 1790, the first territorial legislature convened atCincinnati. The governor having exercised his right of _veto_ inrelation to the removal of a county seat, an unhappy collision followed, and, upon framing the State Constitution, in Nov. , 1802, the conventionprevented the governor of the State from ever exercising the _negative_power upon acts of the legislature. 

DATE OF ORGANIZATION OF SOME OF THE OLDEST COUNTIES. 

 Washington, July 27th, 1788 Hamilton, Jan. 2d, 1790 Adams, July 10th, 1797 Jefferson, July 29th, 1797 Ross, August 20th, 1798 Trumbull, July 10th, 1800 Clermont, December 6th, 1800 Belmont September 7th, 1801

These were all organized under the territorial government. 

INDIANA. 

Length 240, breadth 150 miles. Between 37° 48' N. Latitude, and 7° 45'and 11° W. Longitude. Bounded north by the State of Michigan and lakeMichigan, east by Ohio, south by the Ohio river, which separates it fromKentucky, and west by Illinois. It contains about 37, 000 square miles, equal to 23, 680, 000 acres. 

It is naturally subdivided into the hilly portion, bordering on theOhio; the level, timbered portion, extending across the middle of theState; the Wabash country, on that river; and the northern portionbordering on the State of Michigan and the lake. The two last portionsinclude nearly all the prairie country. 

For civil purposes, this State has been divided into counties, and thosesubdivided into townships. 

TABLE. 

 ------------+----------+------+----------++-----------------+------------- | | | || |Bearing and | Date of |Square|Population|| |distance from COUNTIES. |Formation. |miles. | 1830. ||SEATS OF JUSTICE. |Indianopolis. ------------+----------+------+----------++-----------------+------------- Allen, | 1823 | 720 | 1, 000 || Fort Wayne, | Bartholomew, | 1821 | 588 | 5, 800 || Columbus, | Boon, | 1830 | 400 | 622 || Lebanon, | Carroll, | 1828 | 450 | 1, 614 || Delphi, | Cass, | 1829 | 460 | 1, 154 || Logansport, | Clark, | 1802 | 400 | 10, 719 || Charlestown, | Clay, | 1825 | 360 | 1, 616 || Bowling Green, | Clinton, | 1830 | 450 | 1, 423 || Frankfort, | Crawford, | 1818 | 350 | 3, 184 || Fredonia, | Daviess, | 1816 | 460 | 4, 512 || Washington, | Dearborn, | 1802 | 448 | 14, 573 || Lawrenceburgh, | Decatur, | 1821 | 400 | 5, 854 || Greensburgh, | Delaware, | 1827 | 400 | 2, 372 || Muncietown, | Dubois, | 1817 | 420 | 1, 774 || Jasper, | Elkhart, | 1830 | 576 | 935 || Goshen, | Fayette, | 1818 | 200 | 9, 112 || Connersville, | Floyd, | 1819 | 200 | 6, 363 || New Albany, | Fountain, | 1825 | 400 | 7, 644 || Covington, | Franklin, | 1810 | 400 | 10, 199 || Brookville, | Gibson, | 1813 | 450 | 5, 417 || Princeton, | Grant, | 1831 | 415 | ---- || Marion, | Greene, | 1821 | 540 | 4, 250 || Bloomfield, | Hamilton, | 1823 | 400 | 1, 705 || Noblesville, | Hancock, | 1828 | 340 | 1, 569 || Greenfield, | Harrison, | 1808 | 470 | 10, 288 || Corydon, | Hendricks, | 1823 | 420 | 3, 967 || Danville, | Henry, | 1821 | 440 | 6, 498 || Newcastle, | Huntington, | 1832 | 400 | ---- || | Jackson, | 1815 | 500 | 4, 894 || Brownstown, | Jefferson, | 1809 | 400 | 11, 465 || Madison, | Jennings, | 1816 | 400 | 3, 950 || Vernon, | Johnson, | 1822 | 300 | 4, 130 || Franklin, | Knox, | 1802 | 540 | 6, 557 || Vincennes, | La Porte, | 1832 | 420 | ---- || La Porte, | Lagrange, | 1832 | 380 | ---- || Mongoquinon, | Lawrence, | 1818 | 460 | 9, 237 || Bedford, | Madison, | 1823 | 420 | 2, 442 || Andersontown, | Marion, | 1821 | 440 | 7, 181 || INDIANOPOLIS, | Martin, | 1818 | 340 | 2, 010 || Mount Pleasant, | Miami, | 1832 | 330 | ---- || Miamisport, | Monroe, | 1818 | 560 | 6, 578 || Bloomington, | Montgomery, | 1822 | 500 | 7, 376 || Crawfordsville, | Morgan, | 1821 | 530 | 5, 579 || Martinsville, | Orange, | 1815 | 378 | 7, 909 || Paoli, | Owen, | 1818 | 380 | 4, 060 || Spencer, | Parke, | 1821 | 450 | 7, 534 || Rockville, | Perry, | 1814 | 400 | 3, 378 || Rome, | Pike, | 1816 | 430 | 2, 464 || Petersburgh, | Posey, | 1814 | 500 | 6, 883 || Mount Vernon, | Putnam, | 1821 | 490 | 8, 195 || Greencastle, | Randolph, | 1818 | 440 | 3, 912 || Winchester, | Ripley, | 1818 | 400 | 3, 957 || Versailles, | Rush, | 1821 | 400 | 9, 918 || Rushville, | Scott, | 1817 | 200 | 3, 097 || Lexington, | Shelby, | 1821 | 430 | 6, 294 || Shelbyville, | Spencer, | 1818 | 400 | 3, 187 || Rockport, | St. Joseph, | 1830 | 740 | 287 || South Bend, | Sullivan, | 1816 | 430 | 4, 696 || Merom, | Switzerland, | 1814 | 300 | 7, 111 || Vevay, | Tippecanoe, | 1826 | 500 | 7, 161 || La Fayette, | Union, | 1821 | 224 | 7, 957 || Liberty, | Vanderburgh, | 1818 | 225 | 2, 610 || Evansville, | Vermillion, | 1823 | 280 | 5, 706 || Newport, | Vigo, | 1818 | 400 | 5, 737 || Terre Haute, | Wabash, | 1832 | 380 | ---- || | Warren, | 1828 | 350 | 2, 854 || Williamsport, | Warrick, | 1813 | 412 | 2, 973 || Boonville, | Washington, | 1813 | 550 | 13, 072 || Salem, | Wayne, | 1810 | 420 | 23, 344 || Centerville, |

The total population in 1830, was 341, 582. The estimated population inthe message of Gov. Noble to the legislature, December, 1835, was600, 000. 

The counties in which the population has not been given in the foregoingtable, have been formed since 1830. Probably other new counties, alongthe waters of the Wabash and Kankakee, have been formed recently, ofwhich no intelligence has been had by the author. The counties in thenorthern portion of the State have increased the most in populationsince 1830. 

For electing representatives to Congress, the State is divided intoseven electoral districts. 

For judicial purposes, it is divided into eight circuits, in each ofwhich there is a circuit judge, who, together with two associates ineach county, holds the circuit courts. 

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 

 Population. | Increase. In 1800, (excluding Illinois, ) 2, 641 | From 1800 to 1810, 21, 879 " 1810, 24, 520 | " 1810 to 1820, 122, 658 " 1820, 147, 178 | " 1820 to 1825, 74, 822 " 1825, 222, 000 | " 1825 to 1830, 119, 582 " 1830, 341, 582 | " 1830 to 1835, 119, 582 " 1835, (estimate, ) 600, 000 |

In 1825, the number of voters was 36, 977, and the number of paupers 217!

_Face of the Country, &c. _--The counties bordering on the Ohio river arehilly;--sometimes abrupt, precipitous, stony, occasionally degeneratinginto knobs and ravines. Commencing at the mouth of White river on theWabash, and following up that stream on its east fork, and thence alongthe Muskakituck, through Jennings and Ripley counties to Lawrenceville, and you leave the rough and hilly portion of Indiana, to the right. Muchof the country we have denominated hilly is rich, fertile land, even tothe summits of the hills. On all the streams are strips of rich alluvionof exhaustless fertility. The interior, on the two White rivers andtributaries, is moderately undulating, tolerably rich soil, and much ofit heavily timbered with oaks of various species, poplar, beech, sugartree, walnuts, hickory, elm, and other varieties common to the West. There is much level, table land, between the streams. Along the Wabash, below Terre Haute, is an undulating surface, diversified with forest andprairie, with a soil of middling quality, interspersed with some veryrich tracts. Along the Wabash and its tributaries above Terre Haute, theland in general is first rate, --a large proportion forest, interspersedwith beautiful prairies. The timber consists of oaks of various species, poplar, ash, walnut, cherry, elm, sugar tree, buckeye, hickory, somebeech, sassafras, lime, honey locust, with some cotton wood, sycamore, hackberry and mulberry on the bottom lands. The undergrowth is spicebush, hazel, plum, crab apple, hawthorn and vines. Along the northernpart of the State are extensive prairies and tracts of barrens, withgroves of various kinds of timber and skirts of burr oak. Towards lakeMichigan, and along the Kankakee and St. Joseph rivers, are lakes, swamps and marshes. 

_Rivers. _--The Ohio meanders along the southeastern and southern partsof the State for 350 miles. The east and west forks of White river, andtheir tributaries, water the interior counties for 100 miles in extent. They are both navigable streams for flat boats during the spring andautumn floods. The Wabash river has several heads, which interlock withthe waters of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's, which form the Maumee oflake Erie. It runs a south-westwardly course across the State to Warrencounty, --thence southwardly to Vigo county, where it becomes theboundary between Indiana and Illinois, along which it meanders to theOhio, which it enters 12 miles above Shawneetown. The St. Joseph of lakeMichigan, already noticed under the State of Michigan, makes a curveinto Elkhart and St. Joseph counties, forming what is called the _SouthBend_. The Kankakee, which is the longest branch of Illinois river, rises in Indiana, near the South Bend. Some of its head waters interlockwith those of Tippecanoe, a prominent tributary of the Wabash. 

SKETCH OF EACH COUNTY. 

The following sketch of each county, --its streams, surface, soil, andminerals, --has been made and collated with much labor, from an excellentGazetteer of this State, published in 1833, by Douglass and Maguire ofIndianopolis, --from personal observation of many of the oldercounties, --and from an extensive correspondence. 

ALLEN. --Streams; St. Joseph's and St. Mary's, which form theMaumee of lake Erie, navigable for small keel boats, --and numerouscreeks; generally heavily timbered; soil, clay, --sandy on the rivers. 

BARTHOLOMEW. --Streams; Driftwood, Clifty, Flat Rock, and SaltCreeks, --all mill streams. Surface, level; soil, a rich loam, mixed withsand and gravel; the western part hilly, with clay soil. Minerals;limestone, coal, iron ore, red ochre. 

BOON. --Watered by the tributaries of Raccoon and Sugar Creeks. Surface, level, --soil rich. 

CARROLL. --Streams; Wabash river, Deer, Rock, and branches ofWildcat creeks. Considerable timber, --some prairies, of which Deerprairie is the largest and most beautiful. Considerable quantities oflimestone on the surface; a remarkable spring near Delphi, --the waterreddish. 

CASS. --Streams are Wabash and Eel rivers, which unite atLogansport, --the head of steamboat navigation of the Wabash, andtermination of the W. And E. Canal. Surface, generally level, rollingtowards the rivers with abrupt bluffs; soil, near the rivers, a mixtureof loam and sand; at a distance from them, flat and clayey. Largeproportion, forest land, --some prairies. 

CLARK. --Silver and Fourteen Mile creeks furnish excellent millsites. Ohio river on the south. Surface, rolling and hilly; soil, loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; limestone, gypsum, water lime, marble, salt, iron ore, copperas, alum. 

CLAY. --Eel river and tributaries. Surface moderatelyundulating; soil various, chiefly clay and loam, and a mixture of sand, in places; timber predominates, --some prairies. 

CLINTON. --Watered by the South, Middle, and Kilmore's Forks ofWildcat creek. Surface, moderately undulating, or level: Twelve Mileprairie extends from S. W. To N. E. 12 miles, and is three fourths of amile wide. The remainder timbered land. Soil, a rich sandy loam, andexceedingly fertile. 

CRAWFORD. --Waters; the Ohio and Blue rivers, --plenty of waterpower, and excellent springs. Surface, hilly and broken; in places, tolerably productive; in others, soil thin and rocky. A timbered region, and abundance of limestone. 

DAVIESS. --Streams; Forks of White river, with its tributaries, Smother's, Prairie, Veal, Aikman's and Sugar creeks. Level bottoms onthe rivers--sometimes inundated; undulating on the high grounds. Soil onthe West Fork, sandy; much timber, --an extensive tract of sugar tree;some prairies. The county destitute of rock near the surface; plenty oflime and sandstone in the bed of West Fork of White river, at therapids. Plenty of coal. 

DEARBORN. --Watered by the Great Miami, Whitewater, Laughery, Hogan's and Tanner's creeks. Surface, hilly and broken, with rich, level, bottom lands, on the Miami. Soil, one fourth first rate, onefourth second rate, --remainder inferior. A timbered region. 

DECATUR. --Flat Rock, Clifty, and Sand creeks, are all good millstreams. Surface, generally level, --some parts undulating; soil, loam, with a substratum of clay; well adapted to grain--timbered. Minerals;limestone, some iron ore and coal. 

DELAWARE. --Streams; Missisinawa, and West Fork of White river;surface tolerably level; soil, loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; somelimestone, and granite bowlders scattered over the surface. 

DUBOIS. --Streams; East Fork of White river, Patoka and Andersoncreeks. Surface rolling, --some parts hilly and broken, --some leveltracts; soil rich and sandy loam near the streams. Minerals; sand rockand coal. 

ELKHART. --Watered by St. Joseph of lake Michigan, Elkhart andtributaries. Surface, generally level, --a portion undulating; soilvarious, but generally rich; forest and prairie, both wet and dry. 

FAYETTE. --Watered by the West Fork of Whitewater, and a smalllake in the north. Surface, undulating; soil, on the high ground, clayey, and a mixture of sand, --on the bottom lands, a rich, sandy loam. Limestone found in masses and quarries. 

FLOYD. --Watered by the Ohio river, Silver creek, and some headbranches of Big and Little Indian creeks. Surface various, --a range ofknobs, --east of these knobs, it is gently undulating; soil inferior. Minerals; shale, soft sandstone, limestone, freestone, iron ore, andsome traces of coal. A boiling spring, from which is emitted aninflammable gas. 

FOUNTAIN. --Watered by the Wabash river, and Coal and Shawneecreeks, with numerous mill sites. Surface, gently undulating; soil, ablack loam, mixed with sand, and very rich. Minerals; coal, and somesandstone. 

FRANKLIN. --Watered by the East and West Forks of Whitewater. Surface, on the eastern part level, --western, rolling; soil, in thecentral and northern parts, a black loam, --in the south-west, thin andclayey. 

GIBSON. --Watered by the Wabash, White, and Patoka rivers. Surface, rolling and timbered; soil, generally a sandy loam, andproductive. 

GRANT. --Watered by the Missisinawa and tributaries. Surfacelevel, --generally heavily timbered; soil, clay and loam on the tablelands, --sandy on the river bottoms. 

GREEN. --Watered by White and Eel rivers, and Richland creek;soil, on the rivers a rich loam, --on the bluffs, sandy, --east side, hilly, --west side, level. White river is navigable. Minerals; lime andsandstone, coal, and some iron ore. 

HAMILTON. --The streams are White river, and Cicero, Coal, Stoney, and Fall creeks. Generally forest, --some few prairies; soil, inplaces, clay, --more generally, a sandy loam. Minerals; lime, and somesoft sand rock. 

HANCOCK. --Watered by Blue river, Sugar and Brandywine creeks, with excellent mill sites, and well supplied with springs. Surface, either level or gently undulating; soil, a rich loam, mixed withsand, --heavily timbered. 

HARRISON. --Watered by Big and Little Indian, and Buck creeks, and Blue river. Surface various, --some parts hilly and broken, --someparts undulating, --some parts level; soil, in the low grounds, a richloam, --on the high grounds, calcareous and gravelly. A large tract of"barrens" in the west. Minerals; a quarry and several caves of blackflint, salt licks, limestone. 

HENDRICKS. --The waters are White Lick, and branches of Eelriver, with good mill sites. Surface, gently rolling, and timbered withthe varieties of the Wabash country; soil, a mixture of clay, loam andsand. 

HENRY. --Watered by Blue river, Flat Rock and Fall creeks. Surface, in some places, broken, --in most parts, level; soil, a mixtureof sand with loam and clay. Plenty of springs and mill sites. Mostlytimbered, but several tracts of prairie. 

HUNTINGTON. --The streams are Salamania, Little river, andWabash. Surface, on the rivers, level, --back, gently undulating; soil, loam and clay, with a slight mixture of sand. Several tracts ofprairie, but generally forest land. 

JACKSON. --Watered by Indian, Driftwood, White, Muscatatack, andGum creeks. Surface, rolling and in places hilly; soil, clay and loam, mixed with sand. In the forks of the creeks, sand predominates. On thewest and north-west, inclined to clay. 

JEFFERSON. --Watered by the Ohio river, Indian, Kentucky and Bigcreeks. Surface various; along the river and creeks, low alluvion; soil, loam mixed with sand. The bottoms are bounded by precipitous bluffs, with towering cliffs of limestone. The table lands are undulating, andthe soil inclined to clay. Timber various. Abounds with limestone, masses of freestone, and scattered granite bowlders. 

JOHNSON. --Watered on the eastern side by Blue river, and Sugarand Young's creeks, --on the western side by Indian, Crooked, and Stott'screeks. Surface, gently undulating; soil, a rich, black, sandy loam;timbered. Minerals; masses of freestone, and scattered granite bowlders. 

JENNINGS. --Watered by Graham's Fork, and the North Fork of theMuscatatack. Surface, in some parts level, some parts very hilly; soil, calcareous, rich and productive; timber of all varieties; abounds withlimestone. 

KNOX. --The Wabash on the west side, --White river south, --theWest Fork of White river east, --and Maria and Duchain creeks, interior. Surface undulating; soil, somewhat various, --a rich loam inplaces, --sandy in other places;--some tracts of prairie, but timberpredominates. 

LAGRANGE. --Watered by Pigeon and Crooked rivers. Surface, gently rolling; northern part extensive prairies; southern portionchiefly forest; soil, loam and sand. 

LA PORTE. --Watered by the Kankakee, Galena, and Trail creek, atthe mouth of which is Michigan city, and a harbor for lake Michigancommerce. Surface, gently undulating; abounds with large, rich prairies, with groves of timber, and lakes of clear water interspersed; soil, asandy loam, rich and productive. 

LAWRENCE. --Watered by Salt, Indian, Guthrie's, Beaver, andLeatherwood creeks, and excellent springs. Surface, generallyhilly, --some level lands;--soil, on the water courses, sandy, --back fromthe streams, loam and clay. Abounds with limestone. 

MADISON. --The West Fork of White river is navigable. The otherstreams are Killbuck, Pipe, Lick and Fall creeks. Surface, generallylevel, with some broken land near the streams; timbered, with a wetprairie, 7 miles long and three fourths of a mile wide; soil, sand, mixed with clay and loam, --productive. Minerals; lime and freestone, marble that polishes well, and some traces of iron ore. 

MARION. --West Fork of White river passes through it, on whichis situated INDIANOPOLIS, the capital of the State. Fall creekis an excellent mill stream. Surface, chiefly level forest land; soil, a deep black loam, with a mixture of sand. Large granite bowlders arescattered over the surface. 

MARTIN. --The East Fork of White river passes through it, andreceives Lost river from the left, and Indian and Flint creeks from theright. Surface, on the east side of White river, broken and hilly; soil, clay and loam; on the west side, level, or gently undulating, withportions of barrens and prairie land; soil, clay and loam, mixed withsand. Minerals; coal in large quantities, lime, sand and freestone. 

MIAMI. --The Wabash and Eel rivers pass through it, and theMissisinawa comes from the east, and enters the Wabash about the centreof the county. The Wabash and Erie canal passes through it. Surface, gently undulating and beautiful, --chiefly forest, and interspersed withsmall prairies; soil, the richest in the State, of loam, clay and sandintermixed. 

MONROE. --Streams; Salt, Clear, Indian, Raccoon, Richland, andBean-blossom creeks, --pure springs. Surface, hilly and undulating; soil, second rate. Minerals; limestone rock, salt licks, with manufactories ofsalt. 

MONTGOMERY. --The heads of Shawnee and Coal creeks in thenorth-west, --Sugar creek in the centre, --and Big Raccoon on thesoutheastern part. Surface, gently undulating; the northern portionprairie, interspersed with groves, with a rich soil of black loam, mixed with sand, --the middle and southern portions timbered. Excellentquarries of rock in the middle, --granite bowlders in the northern parts. 

MORGAN. --White river, which is navigable. The mill streams areWhite Lick, Sycamore, Highland, and Lamb's creeks on the west side, andCrooked, Stott's, Clear, and Indian creeks on the east side. Surface, generally rolling, --some parts hilly; soil, calcareous and clayey, --onthe bottoms, a rich sandy loam. Minerals; limestone, and some iron ore. 

ORANGE. --Streams; Lost river, French Lick, and Patoka. Surface, hilly and broken, --limestone rock, --springs of water, of which Half-moonand French Lick are curiosities. On the alluvial bottoms, the soil isloamy, --on the hills, calcareous, and inclined to clay. Excellent stonesfor grit, equal to the Turkey oil stones, are found in this county. 

OWEN. --Watered by the West Fork of White river, with itstributaries, Raccoon, Indian, Mill, Rattlesnake, and Fish creeks. Thefalls of Eel river furnish the best water power in the State. Surfacerolling; soil, in some places a dark loam, --in others clayey andcalcareous. Minerals; immense bodies of lime rock, and some iron ore. 

PARKE. --Watered by the Big and Little Raccoon, and Sugarcreeks, (with excellent mill sites, ) all of which enter the Wabash onits western side. Surface, generally level, --some beautiful prairies, but mostly forest land; soil, a loam mixed with sand and rich. Minerals;lime and sandstone, coal and iron ore. 

PERRY. --Watered by the Ohio river, with Anderson's, Bear, Poison, and Oil creeks interior. Some level land, with a rich, sandyloam, on the streams, --all the high lands very broken; hilly, with aclayey, sterile soil. Minerals; immense bodies of limestone, grindstonequarries, iron ore and coal. 

PIKE. --Has White river on the north, and Patoka creek throughthe centre. Surface all forest land and undulating; soil, eastern partclay and sand, --western, a rich, dark loam, mixed with sand, --someswampy land. Minerals, limestone and coal. 

POSEY. --In the forks of the Ohio and Wabash, with Big, Mill, and McFadden's creeks interior, and good springs. Surface, rolling, andall forest land; soil, a sandy loam, and produces well. Minerals; sand, and limestone and coal. 

PUTNAM. --Has Raccoon creek, and Eel river, with abundant waterprivileges, and fine springs. Surface, gently undulating; soil, inplaces calcareous and clayey, --in other places a rich loam; limestone. 

RANDOLPH. --Watercourses, the West Fork of White river andMissisinawa and their tributaries, which furnish good mill sites. Surface, either level or gently undulating; soil, a rich loam, --in someplaces marshy; a small quantity of limestone, with granite bowlders. 

RIPLEY. --Watered by Laughery and Graham's creek. Surface level, forest land; soil clay, --in some parts inclines to sand, --with limestoneabundant. 

RUSH. --The streams are Big and Little Blue rivers, Big andLittle Flat Rock, with excellent water power. Surface, moderatelyrolling, and heavily timbered; soil, loam on clay, with a slight mixtureof sand. 

SCOTT. --Watered by tributaries of the Muscatatack. Surfacerolling, --some flat lands inclining to marsh; soil, clay. Minerals;limestone, iron ore, salt, sulphur, and copperas. 

SHELBY. --Watered by Big and Little Blue rivers, Brandywine, andSugar creeks, with good mill sites, --all heads of the East Fork of Whiteriver. Surface, generally level with forest land; soil, clay mixed withloam. 

SPENCER. --Ohio river, Anderson's, Little Pigeon, and Sandycreeks. Surface tolerably level, and forest land; soil, clay mixed withloam. Minerals; coal, and lime and sand rock. 

ST. JOSEPH. --St. Joseph's river, Kankakee, and Bobango, withsome small creeks. Extensive marshes on the Kankakee, and near the SouthBend of the St. Joseph. These marshes are of vegetable formation. Surface, in some parts level, --in others gently undulating; soil, aloam, --in some places sand. The north-west part chiefly prairies andbarrens, including the large and fertile prairies of Portage and TerreCoupe. The north-eastern, barrens, --the south-eastern, forest. Mineralsare granite bowlders, and bog iron ore. 

SULLIVAN. --Has the Wabash river on its western side, andTurman's, Busseron, and Turtle creeks interior. Surface rolling, --someprairies, but generally forest land, --some poor barrens; soil, loam andsand;--lime and sand rock and coal. 

SWITZERLAND. --The Ohio east and south, --Indian, Plum, Bryant's, Turtle, and Grant's creeks interior. Surface various, --bottom landslevel, and rich, --then a range of precipitous bluffs, with cliffs oflimestone, --the table land rolling with a calcareous and clayey soil. AtVevay are extensive vineyards. 

TIPPECANOE. --Watered by the Wabash river, and Wildcat, Wea, Burnett's, and Mill Branch creeks. The Wabash affords navigation, andthe other streams excellent mill sites. Surface gently undulating, withextensive level tracts, and consists of one half prairie, one eighthbarrens, and the remainder heavy forest land. The prairie soil is arich, black loam, --the barrens cold, wet clay, --the forest a very richloam and sand. 

UNION. --Streams; the East Fork of White river and itstributaries, Hanna's, Richland, and Silver creeks, all of which furnishexcellent mill sites. Surface, moderately rolling; soil, a dark loam. 

VANDERBURGH. --Watered by the Ohio, and Great Pigeon creek. Surface, high, dry, rolling land, with good timber, and well watered;soil, clay and sand, of inferior quality. Minerals; lime and sandstone, salines, and a mineral spring. 

VERMILLION. --A long, narrow county, between the Wabash riverand the State of Illinois. The streams are Wabash, Big and LittleVermillion, and their tributaries. Surface high, rolling land, withabrupt bluffs near the streams; a good proportion of prairie and timber;soil, rich, sandy loam, and very productive. Minerals; freestone andlimestone, and large coal banks. 

VIGO. --The Wabash passes through it--navigable. The millstreams are Prairie, Honey, Otter, and Sugar creeks, but their watersfail in a dry season. Surface level, or gently undulating, with forestand prairies; soil, rich loam and sand, --first rate. Minerals; graylimestone, freestone, and inexhaustible beds of coal. 

WABASH. --The Wabash river, and W. And E. Canal, pass throughit, as does the Missisinawa, Eel, Bluegrass, and Salamania. Surface, --wide, rich bottoms on the streams, --bluffs and ravinesadjoining, --table lands further back, either dry and rolling, or flatand wet, and abound with willow swamps. Limestone rock abundant, andmany excellent springs of pure water. 

WARREN. --The Wabash on the S. E. Border for thirty miles, andnavigated by steamboats; interior streams, Rock, Redwood, and Big andLittle Pine creeks, all of which afford good mill sites. Some pine andcedar timber. Surface generally level, with broken land on the bluffs ofcreeks; some forest, but the largest proportion prairie; soil, a richand very fertile loam. Minerals; lime and excellent freestone forbuilding purposes, --coal, --iron, --lead and copper, --with several old"diggings" and furnaces, where both copper and lead ore have beensmelted in early times. 

WARRICK. --Watered by the Ohio river, Big and Little Pigeon, andCypress. Surface, rolling and hilly; soil, a sandy loam on clay. Minerals; quarries of freestone, some limestone, and inexhaustible bedsof coal. 

WASHINGTON. --Streams; Muscatatack on the north, Rush, Twin, Highland, Delany's, Elk, Bear, and Sinking creeks, and the heads of Blueand Lost rivers, with mill sites. Surface, diversified from gentleundulations, to lofty and precipitous hills; soil, in part, second rate, with much of inferior quality. Substratum of limestone, caves, hollows, and sink holes. 

WAYNE. --Streams, East and West Forks of Whitewater, withexcellent water power for machinery. Surface, moderately hilly; heavyforest land; soil, a rich loam; substratum, clay. Minerals; generally, limestone, and excellent for buildings. 

_Form of Government. _--This differs very little from that of Ohio. TheConstitution provides that an enumeration be made every five years ofall free white male inhabitants, above the age of twenty-one years; andthe representation of both houses of the General Assembly is apportionedby such enumeration, in such ratio that the number of representativesshall never be less than 36, nor exceed 100, and the number of senatorsnot exceeding one half, nor less than one third the number ofrepresentatives. Every free white male citizen, twenty-one years of age, who has resided in the State one year, is entitled to vote; "except suchas shall be enlisted in the army of the U. S. , or their allies. "Elections are held annually, by ballot, on the first Monday in August. Senators, the governor, and lieutenant governor, hold their offices forthree years. The judiciary is vested in a Supreme Court, in CircuitCourts, Probate Courts, and Justices of the peace. The Supreme Courtconsists of three judges, who are appointed by the governor, with theadvice and consent of the senate, for the term of seven years, and haveappellate jurisdiction. The Circuit Courts consist of a presiding judgein each judicial circuit, elected by joint ballot of both houses of theGeneral Assembly, and two associate judges in each county, elected bythe qualified voters in their respective counties, for a like term. TheProbate Courts consist of one judge for each county, who is elected bythe voters, for the same term. Justices of the peace are elected in eachtownship, for the term of five years, and have jurisdiction in criminalcases throughout the county, but, in all civil cases, throughout thetownship. 

_Finances. _--The Indiana Gazetteer, of 1833, estimates that the revenuefor State purposes amounted to about $35, 000 annually, and, for countypurposes, to about half that sum. The aggregate receipts for 1835, according to the governor's message, of Dec. 1835, amounted to $107, 714;expenditures for the same time, $103, 901. 

Sales of canal lands for the same period, $175, 740. The canalcommissioners have borrowed $605, 257, for canal purposes, on a part ofwhich they obtained two per cent. Premium, and, on another part, as highas seven per cent. ; and have also borrowed $450, 000 bank capital, forwhich they received four and a half per cent. Premium. Three per cent. On all sales of U. S. Lands within the State, is paid by the generalgovernment into the State treasury, to be expended in making roads. Thereceipts from this source, in 1835, amounted to $24, 398. Sales and rentsof saline lands, produced an income of $4, 636. The proceeds of certainlands, donated by the general government towards the construction of aroad from the Ohio river to lake Michigan, amounted to $33, 030. 

_Internal Improvements. _--This State has entered with great spirit upona system of internal improvements. It consists of canalling, improvingriver navigation, rail-roads, and common turnpike roads. 

_Wabash and Erie Canal. _--This work will extend from La Fayette, on theWabash river, up the valley of that stream, to the Maumee and to theboundary of Ohio; distance, 105 miles. The cost of construction has beenestimated at $1, 081, 970, and lands to the amount of 355, 200 acres, havebeen appropriated by the general government, the proceeds of which willbe sufficient to complete the canal to Fort Wayne. The middle division, 32 miles, was completed in July, 1835, and the remainder is in activeprogress. Its whole distance, through a part of Ohio to Maumee bay, atthe west end of lake Erie, will be 187 miles. 

The _Whitewater Canal_, 76 miles in length, along the western branch ofWhitewater, is intended to pass through Connorsville, Brookville, Somerset, and other towns, to Lawrenceburgh, on the Ohio river. 

Provision is made to improve the navigation of the Wabash river, inconjunction with Illinois, where it constitutes the boundary line, and, by this State alone, further up. 

_Rail-Roads. _--From Evansville, on the Ohio, to La Fayette on theWabash, 175 miles; from La Fayette to Michigan city, 90 miles; forming aline from the Ohio river to lake Michigan, 265 miles in length:--FromMadison, on the Ohio, to Indianopolis, the seat of government, 85 miles;and several others were projected two years since. But at the session ofthe legislature of 1835-6, a bill was passed to borrow, in suchinstalments as should be needed, _ten millions_ of dollars; and a systemof internal improvements, including canals, rail-roads, and theimprovement of river navigation, was marked out. In a few years, thisState will be prominent in this species of enterprise. 

_Synopsis of Canals surveyed by order of the Indiana Legislature duringthe Year 1835. _

La Fayette and Terre Haute division of the Wabash and Erie canal. Length, 90 miles; total cost, $1, 067, 914. 70; per mile, $11, 865 79. 

Central canal, north of Indianopolis. Total length, from Indianopolisvia Andersontown, Pipe creek summit to the Wabash and Erie canal atWabash town, 103 miles 34 chains; total cost, $1, 992, 224. 54; per mile, $17, 106 51. Length, via Pipe creek summit to Peru, near the mouth of theMissisinawa, 114 miles 46 chains; total cost, $1, 897, 797. 19; per mile, $14, 871. 85. Length, via Pipe creek summit (including lateral canal toMuncietown) to Wabash town, 124 miles 51 chains; total cost, $2, 103, 153. 61; per mile, $15, 873. 83. Length, via Pipe creek summit(including lateral canal to Muncietown) to Peru, 185 miles 63 chains;total cost, $2, 008, 726. 26; per mile, $14, 793. 12. Total length, fromIndianopolis via Muncietown to the Wabash and Erie canal at Peru, 131miles 41 chains; total cost, $2, 058, 929. 41; per mile, $14. 549 71. 

Central canal, south of Indianopolis. Total length, from Indianopolis toEvansville, 188 miles; total cost, $2, 642, 285. 92; per mile, $14, 054. 71. Route down the valley of Main Pigeon. Length, 194 miles; total cost, $2, 400, 957. 70; per mile, $12, 376. 02. 

Terre Haute and Eel river canal, which forms a connexion between theWabash and Erie canal and White river or Central canal. Total length, 40-½ miles; total cost, $629, 631 65; which, including a feeder, is$13, 540. 46 per mile. 

Wabash and Erie canal, eastern division, [east of Fort Wayne], Upperline: Length, 19 miles 30 chains; total cost, $154, 113. 13; per mile, $7, 952. 17. --Lower line: Total length, 20 miles 76-½ chains; totalcost, $254, 817. 52; per mile, $11, 159. 04. 

The following are the works provided for in the Bill, and the sumsappropriated for them:

 1st. The White Water Canal, including a lateral canal or rail-road, to connect said canal with the Central or White river canal, $1, 400, 000

 2d. Central or White river Canal, 3, 500, 000

 3d. Extension of the Wabash and Erie Canal, 1, 300, 000

 4th. Madison and La Fayette Rail-road, 1, 300, 000

 5th. A M'Adamized turnpike road from New Albany to Vincennes, 1, 150, 000

 6th. Turnpike or rail-road from New Albany to Crawfordsville, 1, 300, 000

 7th. Removing obstructions in the Wabash, 50, 000 ----------- $10, 000, 000 8th. The Bill gives the credit of the State to the Lawrenceburgh and Indianopolis Rail-road Company, for the sum of $500, 000. 

_Manufactures. _--Besides the household manufacture of cotton andflannels, common to the western people, at Vincennes, and probably othertowns, machinery is employed in several establishments. It will be seenfrom the sketch of each county, already given, that in most parts of theState there is a supply of water power for manufacturing purposes. Bothwater and steam power, saw and grist mills, are already in operation invarious parts of the State. 

_Education. _--The same provision of one section of land in eachtownship, or a thirty-sixth part of the public lands, has been made forthe encouragement of common schools, as in other Western States. A lawhas been enacted providing for common schools, and the public mind hasbecome measurably awakened to the subject of education. Some mostextravagant and exaggerated statements have been made relative to anincredible number of children in this State, "who have no means ofeducation. " As in all new countries, the first class of emigrants, having to provide for their more immediate wants, have not done so muchas is desirable to promote common school education; but we have no ideathey will slumber on that subject, while they are wide awake to thephysical wants and resources of the country. Academies have beenestablished in several counties, and a college at Bloomington, from theencouragement of State funds, and other institutions are rising up, ofwhich the Hanover Institution near the Ohio river, and Wabash College atCrawfordsville, promise to be conspicuous. 

_History. _--This country was first explored by adventurers from Canada, with a view to the Indian trade, towards the close of the seventeenthcentury; and the place where Vincennes now stands is said to have beenthus early occupied as a trading post. A company of French from Canada, made a settlement here in 1735. The country, in common with the WesternValley, was claimed by France, until it was ceded to Great Britain, atthe treaty of peace in 1763, under whose jurisdiction it remained, untilsubdued by the American arms under the intrepid Gen. G. R. Clark, andhis gallant band, in 1779. A territorial government was organized byCongress in 1787, including all the country north-west of the riverOhio, which was then called the North-western Territory. In 1802, whenthe State of Ohio was organized, all that part of the Territory lyingwest of a line due north from the mouth of the Great Miami, wasorganized into the Territory of Indiana, --which was divided, and fromwhich Illinois Territory was formed in 1809. In June, 1816, aconstitution was adopted, and at the ensuing session of Congress, Indiana was made a State. 

_General Remarks. _--The importance of Indiana, as a desirable State forthe attention of the emigrant to the West, has been too much overlooked. Though not possessing quite equal advantages with Illinois, especiallyin the quality and amount of prairie soil, it is far superior to Ohio, and fully equal, --nay, in our estimation, rather superior to Michigan. Almost every part is easy of access, and in a very few years the liberalsystem of internal improvements, adopted and in progress, will makealmost every county accessible to public conveyances, and furnishabundant facilities to market. 

Along the wide, alluvion bottoms of the streams, and amidst a rankgrowth of vegetation, there is usually more or less autumnal fever, yet, in general, there is very little difference in any of the WesternStates as to prospects of health. 

Mechanics, school teachers, and laborers of every description, are muchwanted in this State, as they are in all the States further west; andall may provide abundantly and easily, all the necessaries of living fora family, if they will use industry, economy and sobriety. 

FOOTNOTES:

[10] See a valuable statistical article, by B. Drake, Esq. , in theWestern Monthly Magazine, for January, 1836, entitled, "_Cincinnati, atthe close of 1835_. "

CHAPTER XI. 

ILLINOIS. 

Situation, Boundaries, and Extent. 

The State of Illinois is situated between 37° and 42°, 30´ N. Latitude;and between 10° 25´, and 14°30´ W. Longitude from Washington city. It isbounded on the north by Wisconsin Territory, north-east by lakeMichigan, east by Indiana, south-east and south by Kentucky, and west bythe State and Territory of Missouri. Its extreme length is 380 miles;and its extreme width, 220 miles; its average width, 150 miles. The areaof the whole State, including a small portion of lake Michigan withinits boundaries, is 59, 300 square miles. 

The water area of the State is about 3, 750 square miles. With this, deduct 5, 550 square miles for irreclaimable wastes, and there remains50, 000 square miles, or 32 millions of acres of arable land inIllinois, --a much greater quantity than is found in any other State. Inthis estimate, inundated lands, submerged by high waters, but which maybe reclaimed at a moderate expense, is included. 

_Face of the Country, and qualities of Soil. _--The general surface islevel, or moderately undulating; the northern and southern portions arebroken, and somewhat hilly, but no portion of the State is traversedwith ranges of hills or mountains. At the verge of the alluvial soil onthe margins of rivers, there are ranges of "bluffs" intersected withravines. The bluffs are usually from fifty to one hundred and fifty feethigh, where an extended surface of table land commences, covered withprairies and forests of various shapes and sizes. 

When examined minutely, there are several varieties in the surface ofthis State, which will be briefly specified and described. 

1. _Inundated Lands. _ I apply this term to all those portions, which, for some part of the year, are under water. These include portions ofthe river bottoms, and portions of the interior of large prairies, withthe lakes and ponds which, for half the year or more, are without water. The term "bottom" is used throughout the West, to denote the alluvialsoil on the margin of rivers, usually called "intervales, " in NewEngland. Portions of this description of land are flowed for a longer orshorter period, when the rivers are full. Probably one eighth of thebottom lands are of this description; for, though the water may notstand for any length of time, it wholly prevents settlement andcultivation, though it does not interrupt the growth of timber andvegetation. These tracts are on the bottoms of the Wabash, Ohio, Mississippi, Illinois, and all the interior rivers. 

When the rivers rise above their ordinary height, the waters of thesmaller streams, which are backed up by the freshets of the former, break over their banks, and cover all the low grounds. Here they standfor a few days, or for many weeks, especially towards the bluffs; for itis a striking fact in the geology of the western country, that all theriver bottoms are higher on the margins of the streams than at somedistance back. Whenever increase of population shall create a demand forthis species of soil, the most of it can be reclaimed at comparativelysmall expense. Its fertility will be inexhaustible, and if the watersfrom the rivers could be shut out by dykes or levees, the soil would beperfectly dry. Most of the small lakes on the American bottom disappearin the summer, and leave a deposit of vegetable matter undergoingdecomposition, or a luxuriant coat of weeds and grass. 

As our prairies mostly lie between the streams that drain the country, the interior of the large ones are usually level. Here are formed pondsand lakes after the winter and spring rains, which remain to be drawnoff by evaporation, or absorbed by an adhesive soil. Hence the middleof our large, level prairies are wet, and for several weeks portions ofthem are covered with water. To remedy this inconvenience completely, and render all this portion of soil dry and productive, only requires aditch or drain of two or three feet deep to be cut into the nearestravine. In many instances, a single furrow with the plough, would drainmany acres. At present, this species of inundated land offers noinconvenience to the people, except in the production of miasm, and eventhat, perhaps, becomes too much diluted with the atmosphere to producemischief before it reaches the settlements on the borders of theprairie. Hence the inference is correct, that our inundated landspresent fewer obstacles to the settlement and growth of the country, andcan be reclaimed at much less expense, than the swamps and salt marshesof the Atlantic States. 

2. _River Bottoms or Alluvion. _ The surface of our alluvial bottoms isnot entirely level. In some places it resembles alternate waves of theocean, and looks as though the waters had left their deposit in ridges, and retired. 

The portion of bottom land capable of present cultivation, and on whichthe waters never stand, if, at an extreme freshet, it is covered, is asoil of exhaustless fertility; a soil that for ages past has beengradually deposited by the annual floods. Its average depth on theAmerican bottom, is from twenty to twenty-five feet. Logs of wood, andother indications, are found at that depth. The soil dug from wells onthese bottoms, produces luxuriantly the first year. 

The most extensive and fertile tract, of this description of soil, inthis State, is the _American Bottom_, a name it received when itconstituted the western boundary of the United States, and which it hasretained ever since. It commences at the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, five miles below the town of Kaskaskia, and extends northwardly alongthe Mississippi to the bluffs at Alton, a distance of ninety miles. Itsaverage width is five miles, and contains about 450 square miles, or288, 000 acres. Opposite St. Louis, in St. Clair county, the bluffs areseven miles from the river, and filled with inexhaustible beds of coal. The soil of this bottom is an argillaceous or a silicious loam, according as clay or sand happens to predominate in its formation. 

On the margin of the river, and of some of its lakes, is a strip ofheavy timber, with a thick undergrowth, which extends from half a mileto two miles in width; but from thence to the bluffs, it is principallyprairie. It is interspersed with sloughs, lakes, and ponds, the most ofwhich become dry in autumn. 

The soil of the American bottom is inexhaustibly rich. About the Frenchtowns it has been cultivated, and produced corn in succession for morethan a century, without exhausting its fertilizing powers. The onlyobjection that can be offered to this tract is its unhealthy character. This, however, has diminished considerably within eight or ten years. The geological feature noticed in the last article--that all our bottomsare higher on the margin of the stream, than towards the bluffs, explains the cause why so much standing water is on the bottom land, which, during the summer, stagnates and throws off noxious effluvia. These lakes are usually full of vegetable matter undergoingdecomposition, and which produces large quantities of miasm. Some of thelakes are clear and of a sandy bottom, but the most are of a differentcharacter. The French settled near a lake or a river, apparently in themost unhealthy places, and yet their constitutions are little affected, and they usually enjoy good health, though dwarfish and shrivelled intheir form and features. 

"The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, and Cahokia, were builtup by their industry in places where Americans would have perished. Cultivation has, no doubt, rendered this tract more salubrious thanformerly; and an increase of it, together with the construction ofdrains and canals, will make it one of the most eligible in the States. The old inhabitants advise the emigrants not to plant corn in theimmediate vicinity of their dwellings, as its rich and massive foliageprevents the sun from dispelling the deleterious vapors. "[11]

These lakes and ponds could be drained at a small expense, and the soilwould be susceptible of cultivation. The early settlements of theAmericans were either on this bottom, or the contiguous bluffs. 

Besides the American bottom, there are others that resemble it in itsgeneral character, but not in extent. In Union county, there is anextensive bottom on the borders of the Mississippi. Above the mouth ofthe Illinois, and along the borders of the counties of Calhoun, Pike, and Adams, there are a series of bottoms, with much good and elevatedland; but the inundated grounds around, present objections to a densepopulation at present. 

The bottoms of Illinois, where not inundated, are equal in fertility, and the soil is less adhesive than most parts of the American bottom. This is likewise the character of the bottoms in the northern parts ofthe State. 

The bottoms of the Kaskaskia are generally covered with a heavy growthof timber, and in many places inundated when the river is at its highestfloods. 

The extensive prairies adjoining, will create a demand for all thistimber. The bottom lands on the Wabash are of various qualities. Nearthe mouth, much of it is inundated. Higher up it overflows in highfreshets. 

These bottoms, especially the American are the best regions in theUnited States for raising stock, particularly horses, cattle, and swine. Seventy-five bushels of corn to the acre is an ordinary crop. The rootsand worms of the soil, the acorns and other fruits from the trees, andthe fish of the lakes, accelerate the growth of swine. Horses and cattlefind exhaustless supplies of grass in the prairies; and pea vines, buffalo grass, wild oats, and other herbage in the timber, for summerrange; and often throughout most of the winter. In all the rush bottoms, they fatten during the severe weather on rushes. The bottom soil is notso well adapted to the production of small grain, as of maize or Indiancorn, on account of its rank growth, and being more subject to blast, orfall down before harvest, than on the uplands. 

3. _Prairies. _ Much the largest proportion is undulating, dry, andextremely fertile. Other portions are level, and the soil in some casesproves to be wet;--the water, not running off freely, is left to beabsorbed by the soil, or evaporated by the sun. Crawfish throw up theirhillocks in this soil, and the farmer who cultivates it, will find hislabors impeded by the water. 

In the southern part, that is, south of the National road leading fromTerre Haute to the Mississippi, the prairies are comparatively small, varying in size from those of several miles in width, to those whichcontain only a few acres. As we go northward, they widen and extend onthe more elevated ground between the water courses to a vast distance, and are frequently from six to twelve miles in width. Their borders areby no means uniform. Long points of timber project into the prairies, and line the banks of the streams, and points of prairie project intothe timber between these streams. In many instances are copses andgroves of timber, from one hundred to two thousand acres, in the midstof prairies, like islands in the ocean. This is a common feature in thecountry between the Sangamon river and lake Michigan, and in thenorthern parts of the State. The lead mine region, both in this Stateand the Wisconsin territory, abounds with these groves. 

The _origin_ of these prairies has caused much speculation. We might aswell dispute about the origin of forests, upon the assumption that thenatural covering of the earth was grass. Probably one half of theearth's surface, in a state of nature, was prairies or barrens. Much ofit, like our western prairies, was covered with a luxuriant coat ofgrass and herbage. The _steppes_ of Tartary, the _pampas_ of SouthAmerica, the _savannas_ of the Southern, and the _prairies_ of theWestern States, designate similar tracts of country. Mesopotamia, Syria, and Judea had their ancient prairies, on which the patriarchs fed theirflocks. Missionaries in Burmah, and travellers in the interior ofAfrica, mention the same description of country. Where the tough swardof the prairie is once formed, timber will not take root. Destroy thisby the plough, or by any other method, and it is soon converted intoforest land. There are large tracts of country in the older settlements, where, thirty or forty years since, the farmers mowed their hay, thatare now covered with a forest of young timber of rapid growth. 

The fire annually sweeps over the prairies, destroying the grass andherbage, blackening the surface, and leaving a deposit of ashes toenrich the soil. 

4. _Barrens. _ This term, in the western dialect, does not indicate _poorland_, but a species of surface of a mixed character, uniting forest andprairie. 

The timber is generally scattering, of a rough and stunted appearance, interspersed with patches of hazle and brushwood, and where the contestbetween the fire and timber is kept up, each striving for the mastery. 

In the early settlements of Kentucky, much of the country below andsouth of Green river presented a dwarfish and stunted growth of timber, scattered over the surface, or collected in clumps, with hazle andshrubbery intermixed. This appearance led the first explorers to theinference that the soil itself must necessarily be poor, to produce soscanty a growth of timber, and they gave the name of _barrens_ to thewhole tract of country. Long since, it has been ascertained that thisdescription of land is amongst the most productive soil in the State. The term _barren_ has since received a very extensive applicationthroughout the West. Like all other tracts of country, the barrenspresent a considerable diversity of soil. In general, however, thesurface is more uneven or rolling than the prairies, and soonerdegenerates into ravines and sink-holes. Wherever timber barelysufficient for present purposes can be found, a person need not hesitateto settle in the barrens. These tracts are almost invariably healthy;they possess a greater abundance of pure springs of water, and the soilis better adapted for all kinds of produce, and all descriptions ofseasons, wet and dry, than the deeper and richer mould of the bottomsand prairies. 

When the fires are stopped, these barrens produce timber, at a rate ofwhich no northern emigrant can have any just conception. Dwarfish shrubsand small trees of oak and hickory are scattered over the surface, wherefor years they have contended with the fires for a precarious existence, while a mass of roots, sufficient for the support of large trees, haveaccumulated in the earth. As soon as they are protected from the ravagesof the annual fires, the more thrifty sprouts shoot forth, and in tenyears are large enough for corn cribs and stables. 

As the fires on the prairies become stopped by the surroundingsettlements, and the wild grass is eaten out and trodden down by thestock, they begin to assume the character of barrens; first, hazle andother shrubs, and finally, a thicket of young timber, covers thesurface. 

5. _Forest, or timbered Land. _ In general, Illinois is abundantlysupplied with timber, and were it equally distributed through the State, there would be no part in want. The apparent scarcity of timber wherethe prairie predominates, is not so great an obstacle to the settlementof the country as has been supposed. For many of the purposes to whichtimber is applied, substitutes are found. The rapidity with which theyoung growth pushes itself forward, without a single effort on the partof man to accelerate it, and the readiness with which the prairiebecomes converted into thickets, and then into a forest of young timber, shows that, in another generation, timber will not be wanting in anypart of Illinois. 

The kinds of timber most abundant are oaks of various species, black andwhite walnut, ash of several kinds, elm, sugar maple, honey locust, hackberry, linden, hickory, cotton wood, pecan, mulberry, buckeye, sycamore, wild cherry, box elder, sassafras, and persimmon. In thesouthern and eastern parts of the State are yellow poplar, and beech;near the Ohio are cypress, and in several counties are clumps of yellowpine and cedar. On the Calamick, near the south end of lake Michigan, isa small forest of white pine. The undergrowth are redbud, pawpaw, sumach, plum, crab apple, grape vines, dogwood, spice bush, greenbrier, hazle, &c. 

The alluvial soil of the rivers produces cotton wood and sycamore timberof amazing size. 

For ordinary purposes there is now timber enough in most parts of theState, to say nothing about the artificial production of timber, whichmay be effected with little trouble and expense. The black locust, anative of Ohio and Kentucky, may be raised from the seed, with lesslabor than a nursery of apple trees. It is of rapid growth, and, as avaluable and lasting timber, claims the attention of our farmers. Itforms one of the cleanliest and most beautiful shades, and when inblossom gives a rich prospect, and sends abroad a delicious fragrance. 

6. _Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines, and Sink-holes. _ Under these heads areincluded tracts of uneven country found in various parts of the State. 

_Knobs_ are ridges of flint limestone, intermingled and covered withearth, and elevated one or two hundred feet above the common surface. This species of land is of little value for cultivation, and usually hasa sprinkling of dwarfish, stunted timber, like the barrens. 

The steep hills and natural mounds that border the alluvions haveobtained the name of _bluffs_. Some are in long, parallel ridges, othersare in the form of cones and pyramids. In some places precipices oflimestone rock, from fifty to one or two hundred feet high, form thesebluffs. 

_Ravines_ are formed amongst the bluffs, and often near the borders ofprairies, which lead down to the streams. 

_Sink-holes_ are circular depressions in the surface, like a basin. Theyare of various sizes, from ten to fifty feet deep, and from ten to oneor two hundred yards in circumference. Frequently they contain an outletfor the water received by the rains. Their existence shows that thesubstratum is secondary limestone, abounding with subterraneouscavities. 

There are but few tracts of _stony ground_ in the State; that is, whereloose stones are scattered over the surface, and imbedded in the soil. Towards the northern part of the State, tracts of stony ground exist. Quarries of stone exist in the bluffs, and in the banks of the streamsand ravines throughout the State. 

The soil is porous, easy to cultivate, and exceedingly productive. Astrong team is required to break up the prairies, on account of thefirm, grassy sward which covers them. But when subdued, they becomefine, arable lands. 

_Rivers, &c. _--This State is surrounded and intersected by navigablestreams. The Mississippi, Ohio and Wabash rivers are on threesides, --the Illinois, Kaskaskia, Sangamon, Muddy, and many smallerstreams are entirely within its borders, --and the Kankakee, Fox, Rock, and Vermillion of the Wabash, run part of their course within thisState. The Mississippi meanders its western border for 700 miles. Itsprincipal tributaries within Illinois, are Rock, Illinois, Kaskaskia, and Muddy rivers. The Illinois river commences at the junction of theKankakee, which originates near the South Bend in Indiana, and the DesPlaines, which rises in the Wisconsin Territory. From their junction, the Illinois runs nearly a west course, (receiving Fox river at Ottawa, and Vermillion near the foot of the rapids, ) to Hennepin, where itcurves to the south and then to the south-west, receiving a number oftributaries, the largest of which are Spoon river from the right andSangamon from the left, till it reaches Naples. Here it bends graduallyto the south, and continues that course till within six miles of theMississippi, when it curves to the south-east, and finally, to nearly aneast course. Its length, (without reckoning the windings of the channelin navigation, ) is about 260 miles, and is navigable for steamboats at amoderate stage of water to the foot of the rapids. The large streams onthe eastern side of the State are Iroquois, a tributary to the Kankakee, Vermillion of the Wabash, which enters that river in Indiana, Embarras, that has its source near that of the Kaskaskia, runs south-easterly, andenters the Wabash 9 miles below Vincennes, and Little Wabash near itsmouth. Along the Ohio, the only streams deserving note are the Salineand Bay creeks, and Cash river, the last of which enters the Ohio sixmiles above its confluence with the Mississippi. 

_Productions. _--These are naturally classed into _mineral_, _animal_ and_vegetable_. 

_Minerals. _ The northern portion of Illinois is inexhaustibly rich inmineral productions, while coal, secondary limestone, and sandstone, arefound in every part. 

Iron ore has been found in the southern parts of the State, and is saidto exist in considerable quantities in the northern parts. 

Native copper, in small quantities, has been found on Muddy river, inJackson county, and back of Harrisonville, in the bluffs of Monroecounty. Crystallized gypsum has been found in small quantities in St. Clair county. Quartz crystals exist in Gallatin county. 

Silver is supposed to exist in St. Clair county, two miles from RockSpring, from whence Silver creek derives its name. In early times, ashaft was sunk here, by the French, and tradition tells of largequantities of the precious metals being obtained. 

In the southern part of the State, several sections of land have beenreserved from sale, on account of the silver ore they are supposed tocontain. 

_Lead_ is found in vast quantities in the northern part of Illinois, andthe adjacent territory. Here are the richest lead mines hithertodiscovered on the globe. This portion of country lies principally northof Rock river and south of the Wisconsin. Dubuque's, and other richmines, are west of the Mississippi. 

Native copper, in large quantities, exists in this region, especially atthe mouth of Plum creek, and on the Peek-a-ton-o-kee, a branch of Rockriver. 

The following is a list of the principal diggings in that portion of thelead mine region that lies between Rock river and the Wisconsin, embracing portions of Illinois State, and Wisconsin Territory. Some ofthese diggings are, probably, relinquished, and many new ones commenced. 

 Apple Creek, GALENA and vicinity, Cave Diggings, Buncombe, Natchez, Hardscrabble, New Diggings, Gratiot's Grove, Spulburg, W. S. Hamilton's, Cottle's, McNutt's, Menomonee Creek, Plattsville, CASSVILLE and vicinity, Madden's, Mineral Point, Dodgeville, Worke's Diggings, Brisbo's, Blue Mounds, Prairie Springs, Hammett & Campbell's, Morrison's, and many others. 

_Amount of Lead Manufactured. _ For many years the Indians, and some ofthe French hunters and traders, had been accustomed to dig lead inthese regions. They never penetrated much below the surface, butobtained considerable quantities of the ore which they sold to thetraders. 

In 1823, the late Col. James Johnson, of Great Crossings, Ky. , andbrother to the Hon. R. M. Johnson, obtained a lease of the United Statesgovernment, and made arrangements to prosecute the business of smelting, with considerable force, which he did the following season. Thisattracted the attention of enterprising men in Illinois, Missouri, andother States. Some went on in 1826, more followed in 1827, and in 1828the country was almost literally filled with miners, smelters, merchants, speculators, gamblers, and every description of character. Intelligence, enterprise, and virtue, were thrown in the midst ofdissipation, gaming, and every species of vice. Such was the crowd ofadventurers in 1829, to this hitherto almost unknown and desolateregion, that the lead business was greatly overdone, and the market forawhile nearly destroyed. Fortunes were made almost upon a turn of thespade, and lost with equal facility. The business has revived and isprofitable. Exhaustless quantities of mineral exist here, over a tractof country two hundred miles in extent. 

The following table shows the amount of lead made annually at thesediggings, from 1821, to Sept, 30, 1835:

 Lbs. Of lead made from 1821, to Sept. 1823, 335, 130 do. For the year ending Sept. 30, 1824, 175, 220 do. Do. Do. 1825, 664, 530 do. Do. Do. 1826, 958, 842 do. Do. Do. 1827, 5, 182, 180 do. Do. Do. 1828, 11, 105, 810 do. Do. Do. 1829, 13, 344, 150 do. Do. Do. 1830, 8, 323, 998 do. Do. Do. 1831, 6, 381, 900 do. Do. Do. 1832, 4, 281, 876 do. Do. Do. 1833, 7, 941, 792 do. Do. Do. 1834, 7, 971, 579 do. Do. Do. 1835, 3, 754, 290 ---------- Total, 70, 420, 357

The rent accruing to government for the same period, is a fraction shortof six millions of pounds. The government formerly received 10 per cent. In lead for rent. Now it is 6 per cent. 

A part of the mineral land in the Wisconsin Territory has been surveyedand brought into market, which will add greatly to the stability andprosperity of the mining business. 

_Coal. _ Bituminous coal abounds in Illinois. It may be seen, frequently, in the ravines and gullies, and in the points of bluffs. Exhaustlessbeds of this article exist in the bluffs of St. Clair county, borderingon the American bottom, of which large quantities are transported to St. Louis, for fuel. There is scarce a county in the State, but what canfurnish coal, in reasonable quantities. Large beds are said to exist, near the Vermillion of the Illinois, and in the vicinity of the rapidsof the latter. 

_Agatized Wood. _ A petrified tree, of black walnut, was found in the bedof the river Des Plaines, about forty rods above its junction with theKankakee, imbedded in a horizontal position, in a stratum of sandstone. There is fifty-one and a half feet of the trunk visible, --eighteeninches in diameter at its smallest end, and probably three feet at theother end. 

_Muriate of Soda_, or common salt. This is found in various parts of theState, held in solution in the springs. The manufacture of salt byboiling and evaporation is carried on in Gallatin county, twelve mileswest-north-west from Shawneetown; in Jackson county, near Brownsville;and in Vermillion county, near Danville. The springs and land are ownedby the State, and the works leased. 

A coarse freestone, much used in building, is dug from quarries nearAlton, on the Mississippi, where large bodies exist. 

Scattered over the surface of our prairies, are large masses of rock, ofgranitic formation, roundish in form, usually called by the people"_lost rocks_. " They will weigh from one thousand to ten or twelvethousand pounds, and are entirely detached, and frequently are foundseveral miles-distant from any quarry. Nor has there ever been a quarryof granite discovered in the State. These stones are denominated_bowlders_ in mineralogy. They usually lie on the surface, or arepartially imbedded in the soil of our prairies, which is unquestionablyof diluvial formation. How they came here is a question of difficultsolution. 

_Medicinal Waters_, are found in different parts of the State. These arechiefly sulphur springs and chalybeate waters. There is said to be onewell in the southern part of the State strongly impregnated with thesulphate of magnesia, or Epsom salts, from which considerable quantitieshave been made for sale, by simply evaporating the water, in a kettle, over a common fire. 

There are several sulphur springs in Jefferson county, to which personsresort for health. 

_Vegetable Productions. _ The principal trees and shrubs of Illinois havebeen noticed under the head of "_Forest or timbered land_. " Of oaksthere are several species, as overcup, burr oak, swamp or water oak, white oak, red or Spanish oak, post oak, and black oak of severalvarieties, with the black jack, a dwarfish, gnarled looking tree, excellent for fuel, but good for nothing else. 

The black walnut is much used for building materials and cabinet work, and sustains a fine polish. 

In most parts of the State, grape vines, indigenous to the country, areabundant, which yield grapes that might advantageously be made intoexcellent wine. Foreign vines are susceptible of easy cultivation. Theseare cultivated to a considerable extent at Vevay, Switzerland county, Indiana, and at New Harmony on the Wabash. The indigenous vines areprolific, and produce excellent fruit. They are found in every varietyof soil; interwoven in every thicket in the prairies and barrens; andclimbing to the tops of the very highest trees on the bottoms. TheFrench in early times, made so much wine as to export some to France;upon which the proper authorities prohibited the introduction of winefrom Illinois, lest it might injure the sale of that staple article ofthe kingdom. I think the act was passed by the board of trade, in 1774. 

The editor of the Illinois Magazine remarks, "We know one gentleman whomade twenty-seven barrels of wine in a single season, from the grapesgathered with but little labor, in his immediate neighborhood. "

The wild plum is found in every part of the State; but in most instancesthe fruit is too sour for use, unless for preserves. Crab apples areequally prolific, and make fine preserves with about double their bulkof sugar. Wild cherries are equally productive. The persimmon is adelicious fruit, after the frost has destroyed its astringentproperties. The black mulberry grows in most parts, and is used for thefeeding of silk-worms with success. They appear to thrive and spin aswell as on the Italian mulberry. The gooseberry, strawberry, andblackberry, grow wild and in great profusion. Of our nuts, the hickory, black walnut, and pecan, deserve notice. The last is an oblong, thinshelled, delicious nut, that grows on a large tree, a species of thehickory, (the _Carya olivæ formis_ of Nuttall. ) The pawpaw grows in thebottoms, and rich, timbered uplands, and produces a large, pulpy, andluscious fruit. Of domestic fruits, the apple and peach are chieflycultivated. Pears are tolerably plenty in the French settlements, andquinces are cultivated with success by some Americans. Apples are easilycultivated, and are very productive. They can be made to bear fruit toconsiderable advantage in seven years from the seed. Many varieties areof fine flavor, and grow to a large size. I have measured apples, thegrowth of St. Clair county, that exceeded thirteen inches incircumference. Some of the early American settlers provided orchards. They now reap the advantages. But a large proportion of the populationof the frontiers are content without this indispensable article in thecomforts of a Yankee farmer. Cider is made in small quantities in theold settlements. In a few years, a supply of this beverage can be had inmost parts of Illinois. 

Peach trees grow with great rapidity, and decay proportionably soon. From ten to fifteen years may be considered the life of this tree. Ourpeaches are delicious, but they sometimes fail by being destroyed in thegerm by winter frosts. The bud swells prematurely. 

_Garden Vegetables_ can be produced here in vast profusion, and ofexcellent quality. 

That we have few of the elegant and well dressed gardens of gentlemen inthe old states, is admitted; which is not owing to climate, or soil, butto the want of leisure and means. 

Our Irish potatoes, pumpkins and squashes are inferior, but not ourcabbages, peas, beets, or onions. 

A cabbage head, two or three feet in diameter including the leaves, isno wonder on this soil. Beets often exceed twelve inches incircumference. Parsnips will penetrate our light, porous soil, to thedepth of two or three feet. 

The _cultivated vegetable productions in the field_, are maize or Indiancorn, wheat, oats, barley, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips, rye for horse feed and distilleries, tobacco, cotton, hemp, flax, the castor bean, and every other production common to the MiddleStates. 

_Maize_ is a staple production. No farmer can live without it, andhundreds raise little else. This is chiefly owing to the ease with whichit is cultivated. Its average produce is fifty bushels to the acre. Ihave oftentimes seen it produce seventy-five bushels to the acre, and ina few instances, exceed one hundred. 

_Wheat_ yields a good and sure crop, especially in the countiesbordering on the Illinois river. It weighs upwards of 60 pounds perbushel; and flour from this region has preference in the New Orleansmarket, and passes better inspection than the same article from Ohio orKentucky. 

In 1825, the weevil, for the first time, made its appearance in St. Clair and the adjacent counties, and has occasionally renewed its visitssince. Latterly, some fields have been injured by the fly. 

A common, but slovenly practice amongst our farmers, is, to sow wheatamongst the standing corn, in September, and cover it by running a fewfurrows with the plough between the rows of corn. The dry stalks arethen cut down in the spring, and left on the ground. Even by thisimperfect mode, fifteen or twenty bushels of wheat to the acre areproduced. But where the ground is duly prepared by fallowing, and theseed put in at the proper time, a good crop, averaging from twenty-fiveto thirty-five bushels per acre, rarely fails to be procured. 

The average price of wheat at present is a dollar per bushel, varying alittle according to the competition of mills and facilities to market. In many instances a single crop of wheat will more than pay the expensesof purchasing the land, fencing, breaking the prairie, seed, putting inthe crop, harvesting, threshing, and taking it to market. Wheat is nowfrequently sown on the prairie land as a first crop, and a good yieldobtained. 

Flouring mills are now in operation in many of the wheat growingcounties. Steam power is getting into extensive use both for sawingtimber, and manufacturing flour. 

It is to be regretted, that so few of our farmers have erected barns forthe security of their crops. No article is more profitable, and reallymore indispensable to a farmer, than a large barn. 

_Oats_ have not been much raised till lately. They are very productive, often yielding from forty to fifty bushels on the acre, and usually sellfor twenty-five cents the bushel. The demand for the use of stage andtravellers' horses is increasing. 

_Hemp_ is an indigenous plant in the southern part of this State, as itis in Missouri. It has not been extensively cultivated; but wherevertried, is found very productive, and of an excellent quality. It mightbe made a staple of the country. 

_Tobacco_, though a filthy and noxious weed, which no human being oughtever to use, can be produced in any quantity, and of the first quality, in Illinois. 

_Cotton_, for many years, has been successfully cultivated in this Statefor domestic use, and some for exportation. Two or three spinningfactories are in operation, and produce cotton yarn from the growth ofthe country with promising success. This branch of business admits ofenlargement, and invites the attention of eastern manufacturers withsmall capital. Much of the cloth made in families who have emigratedfrom States south of the Ohio is from the cotton of the country. 

_Flax_ is produced, and of a tolerable quality, but not equal to that ofthe Northern States. It is said to be productive and good in thenorthern counties. 

_Barley_ yields well, and is a sure crop. 

The _palma christi_, or castor oil bean, is produced in considerablequantities in Madison, Randolph, and other counties, and largequantities of oil are expressed and sent abroad. 

_Sweet Potatoes_ are a delicious root, and yield abundantly, especiallyon the American bottom, and rich sandy prairies. 

But little has been done to introduce cultivated grasses. The prairiegrass looks coarse and unsavory, and yet our horses and cattle willthrive well on it. 

To produce timothy with success, the ground must be well cultivated inthe summer, either by an early crop, or by fallowing, and the seed sownabout the 20th of September, at the rate of _ten or twelve quarts ofclean seed to the acre_, and lightly brushed in. 

If the season is in any way favorable, it will get a rapid start beforewinter. By the last week in June, it will produce two tons per acre, ofthe finest hay. It then requires a dressing of stable or yard manure, and occasionally the turf may be scratched with a harrow, to prevent theroots from binding too hard. By this process, timothy meadows may bemade and preserved. There are meadows in St. Clair county, which haveyielded heavy crops of hay in succession, for several years, and bidfair to continue for an indefinite period. Cattle, and especiallyhorses, should never be permitted to run in meadows in Illinois. Thefall grass may be cropped down by calves and colts. There is but littlemore labor required to produce a crop of timothy, than a crop of oats, and as there is not a stone or a pebble to interrupt, the soil may beturned up every third or fourth year for corn, and afterwards laid downto grass again. 

A species of blue grass is cultivated by some farmers for pastures. Ifwell set, and not eaten down in summer, blue grass pastures may be keptgreen and fresh till late in autumn, or even in the winter. The Englishspire grass has been cultivated with success in the Wabash country. 

Of the trefoil, or clover, there is but little cultivated. A prejudiceexists against it, as it is imagined to injure horses by affecting theglands of the mouth, and causing them to slaver. It grows luxuriantly, and may be cut for hay early in June. The white clover comes innaturally, where the ground has been cultivated, and thrown by, or alongthe sides of old roads and paths. Clover pastures would be excellent forswine. 

_Animals. _ Of _wild animals_ there are several species. The buffalo isnot found on this side the Mississippi, nor within several hundred milesof St. Louis. This animal once roamed at large over the prairies ofIllinois, and was found in plenty, thirty-five years since. _Wolves_, _panthers_ and _wild cats_, still exist on the frontiers, and throughthe unsettled portions of the country, and annoy the farmer bydestroying his sheep and pigs. 

_Deer_ are also very numerous, and are valuable, particularly to thatclass of our population which has been raised to frontier habits; theflesh affording them food, and the skins, clothing. Fresh venison hamsusually sell for twenty-five cents each, and when properly cured, are adelicious article. Many of the frontier people dress their skins, andmake them into pantaloons and hunting shirts. These articles areindispensable to all who have occasion to travel in viewing land, or forany other purpose, beyond the settlements, as cloth garments, in theshrubs and vines, would soon be in strings. 

It is a novel and pleasant sight to a stranger, to see the deer inflocks of eight, ten, or fifteen in number, feeding on the grass of theprairies, or bounding away at the sight of a traveller. 

The _brown bear_ is also an inhabitant of the unsettled parts of thisState, although he is continually retreating before the advance ofcivilization. 

Foxes, raccoons, opossums, gophers, and squirrels, are also numerous, asare muskrats, otters, and occasionally beaver, about our rivers andlakes. Raccoons are very common, and frequently do mischief in thefall, to our corn. Opossums sometimes trouble the poultry. 

The _gopher_ is a singular little animal, about the size of a squirrel. It burrows in the ground, is seldom seen, but its _works_ make it known. It labors during the night, in digging subterranean passages in the richsoil of the prairies, and throws up hillocks of fresh earth, within afew feet distance from each other, and from twelve to eighteen inches inheight. 

The gray and fox squirrels often do mischief in the cornfields, and thehunting of them makes fine sport for the boys. 

_Common rabbits_ exist in every thicket, and annoy nurseries and youngorchards exceedingly. The fence around a nursery must always be so closeas to shut out rabbits; and young apple trees must be secured, at theapproach of winter, by tying straw or corn stalks around their bodies, for two or three feet in height, or the bark will be stripped off bythese mischievous animals. 

_Wild horses_ are found ranging the prairies and forests in some partsof the State. They are small in size, of the Indian or Canadian breed, and very hardy. They are found chiefly in the lower end of the AmericanBottom, near the junction of the Kaskaskia and Mississippi rivers, called _the Point_. They are the offspring of the horses brought thereby the first settlers, and which were suffered to run at large. TheIndians of the West have many such horses, which are commonly calledIndian ponies. 

_Domestic Animals. _ These are the same as are found in other portions ofthe United States. But little has been done to improve the breed ofhorses amongst us. Our common riding or working horses average aboutfifteen hands in height. Horses are much more used here than in theEastern States, and many a farmer keeps half a dozen or more. Much ofthe travelling throughout the Western country, both by men and women, isperformed on horseback; and a large proportion of the land carriage isby means of large wagons, with from four to six stout horses for a team. A great proportion of the ploughing is performed by horse labor. Horsesare more subject to diseases in this country than in the old States, which is thought to be occasioned by bad management, rather than by theclimate. A good farm horse can be purchased for fifty dollars. Riding orcarriage horses, of a superior quality, cost about seventy-five oreighty dollars. Breeding mares are profitable stock for every farmer tokeep, as their annual expense in keeping is but trifling: their labor isalways needed, and their colts, when grown, find a ready market. Somefarmers keep a stallion, and eight or ten brood mares. 

_Mules_ are brought into Missouri, and find their way to Illinois, fromthe Mexican dominions. They are a hardy animal, grow to a good size, and are used by some, both for labor and riding. 

Our _neat cattle_ are usually inferior in size to those of the oldStates. This is owing entirely to bad management. Our cows are notpenned up in pasture fields, but suffered to run at large over thecommons. Hence _all_ the calves are preserved, without respect toquality, to entice the cows homeward at evening. 

In autumn their food is very scanty, and during the winter they arepermitted to pick up a precarious subsistence amongst fifty or a hundredhead of cattle. With such management, is it surprising that our cows andsteers are much inferior to those of the old States?

And yet, our beef is the finest in the world. It bears the bestinspection of any in the New Orleans market. By the first of June, andoften by the middle of May, our young cattle on the prairies are fit formarket. They do not yield large quantities of tallow, but the fat iswell proportioned throughout the carcass, and the meat tender anddelicious. By inferiority, then, I mean the _size_ of our cattle ingeneral, and the quantity and quality of the milk of cows. 

Common cows, if suffered to lose their milk in August, becomesufficiently fat for table use by October. Fallow heifers and steers, are good beef, and fit for the knife at any period after the middle ofMay. Nothing is more common than for an Illinois farmer to go among hisstock, select, shoot down, and dress a fine beef, whenever fresh meatis needed. This is often divided out amongst the neighbors, who in turn, kill and share likewise. It is common at camp and other large meetings, to kill a beef and three or four hogs for the subsistence of friendsfrom a distance. 

Steers from three years old or more, have been purchased in greatnumbers in Illinois, by drovers from Ohio. Cattle are sometimes sent inflat boats down the Mississippi and Ohio, for the New Orleans market. 

We can hardly place limits upon the amount of beef cattle that Illinoisis capable of producing. A farmer calls himself poor, with a hundredhead of horned cattle around him. A cow in the spring is worth fromseven to ten or fifteen dollars. Some of the best quality will sellhigher. And let it be distinctly understood, once for all, that a poorman can always purchase horses, cattle, hogs, and provisions, for labor, either by the day, month, or job. 

Cows, in general, do not produce the same amount of milk, nor of as richa quality as in older States. Something is to be attributed to thenature of our pastures, and the warmth of our climate, but more tocauses already assigned. If ever a land was characterized justly, as"flowing with milk and honey, " it is Illinois and the adjacent States. From the springing of the grass till September, butter is made in greatprofusion. It sells at that season in market for about ten cents. Withproper care it can be preserved in tolerable sweetness for winter'suse. Late in autumn and early in the winter, sometimes butter is notplenty. The feed becomes dry, the cows range further off, and do notcome up readily for milking, and dry up. A very little trouble wouldenable a farmer to keep three or four good cows in fresh milk at theseason most needed. 

Cheese is made by many families, especially in the counties bordering onthe Illinois river. Good cheese sells for eight and sometimes ten cents, and finds a ready market. 

_Swine. _ This species of stock may be called a staple in the provisionof Illinois. Thousands of hogs are raised without any expense, except afew breeders to start with, and a little attention in hunting them onthe range, and keeping them tame. 

Pork that is made in a domestic way and fatted on corn, will sell fromthree to four and five dollars, according to size, quality, and the timewhen it is delivered. With a pasture of clover or blue grass, awell-filled corn crib, a dairy, and slop barrel, and the usual care thata New Englander bestows on his pigs, pork may be raised from the sow, fatted, and killed, and weigh from two hundred to two hundred and fifty, within twelve months; and this method of raising pork would beprofitable. 

Few families in the west and south put up their pork in salt pickle. Their method is to salt it sufficiently to prepare it for smoking, andthen make bacon of hams, shoulders, and middlings or broadsides. Theprice of bacon, taking the hog round, is about seven and eight cents. Good hams command eight and ten cents in the St. Louis market. Stockhogs, weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds, alive, usually sellfrom one to two dollars per head. Families consume much more meat in theWest in proportion to numbers, than in the old States. 

_Sheep_ do very well in this country, especially in the oldersettlements, where the grass has become short, and they are lessmolested by wolves. 

_Poultry_ is raised in great profusion, --and large numbers of fowlstaken to market. 

Ducks, geese, swans, and many other aquatic birds, visit our waters inthe spring. The small lakes and sloughs are often literally covered withthem. Ducks, and some of the rest, frequently stay through the summerand breed. 

The prairie fowl is seen in great numbers on the prairies in the summer, and about the corn fields in the winter. This is the grouse of the NewYork market. They are easily taken in the winter. 

Partridges, (the quail of New England, ) are taken with nets, in thewinter, by hundreds in a day, and furnish no trifling item in theluxuries of the city market. 

_Bees. _ These laborious and useful insects are found in the trees ofevery forest. Many of the frontier people make it a prominent business, after the frost has killed the vegetation, to hunt them for the honeyand wax, both of which find a ready market. Bees are profitable stockfor the farmer, and are kept to a considerable extent. 

_Silk-worms_ are raised by a few persons. They are capable of beingproduced to any extent, and fed on the common black mulberry of thecountry. 

_Manufactures. _--In the infancy of a state, little can be expected inmachinery and manufactures. And in a region so much deficient in waterpower as some parts of Illinois is, still less may be looked for. YetIllinois is not entirely deficient in manufacturing enterprise. 

_Salt. _ The principal salines of this State have been mentioned underthe head of minerals. 

The principal works are at Gallatin, Big Muddy, and Vermillion salines. 

_Steam Mills_ for flouring and sawing are becoming very common, and ingeneral are profitable. Some are now in operation with four run ofstones, and which manufacture one hundred barrels of flour in a day. Mills propelled by steam, water, and animal power, are constantlyincreasing. Steam mills will become numerous, particularly in thesouthern and middle portions of the State, and it is deserving remarkthat, while these portions are not well supplied with durable waterpower, they contain, in the timber of the forest, and the inexhaustiblebodies of bituminous coal, abundant supplies of fuel; while the northernportion, though deficient in fuel, has abundant water power. 

A good steam saw-mill with two saws can be built for $1, 500; and a steamflouring mill with two run of stones, elevators, and other apparatuscomplete, and of sufficient force to turn out forty or fifty barrels offlour per day, may be built for from $3, 500 to $5, 000. 

Ox mills on an inclined plane, and horse mills by draught, are commonthrough the country. 

_Castor Oil. _ Considerable quantities of this article have beenmanufactured in Illinois from the palma christi, or castor bean. Onebushel of the beans will make nearly two gallons of the oil. There arefive or six castor oil presses in the State, in Madison, Randolph, Edwards, and perhaps in other counties. Mr. Adams of Edwardsville, in1825, made 500 gallons, which then sold at the rate of two dollars fiftycents per gallon. In 1826, he made 800 gallons; in 1827, 1000gallons, --the price then, one dollar seventy-five cents: in 1828, 1800gallons, price one dollar. In 1830, he started two presses and madeupwards of 10, 000 gallons, which sold for from seventy-five toeighty-seven cents per gallon: in 1831, about the same quantity. Thatand the following season being unfavorable for the production of thebean, there has been a falling off in the quantity. The amountmanufactured in other parts of the State has probably exceeded that madeby Mr. Adams. 

_Lead. _ In Jo Daviess county are eight or ten furnaces for smeltinglead. The amount of this article made annually at the mines of the UpperMississippi, has been given under the head of minerals. 

_Boat Building_ will soon become a branch of business in this State. Some steamboats have been constructed already within this State, alongthe Mississippi. It is thought that Alton and Chicago are convenientsites for this business. 

There is in this State, as in all the Western States, a large amount ofdomestic manufactures made by families. All the trades, needful to a newcountry, are in existence. Carpenters, wagon makers, cabinet makers, blacksmiths, tanneries, &c. , may be found in every county and town, andthousands more are wanted. 

There has been a considerable falling off in the manufacture of whiskeywithin a few years, and it is sincerely hoped by thousands of citizens, that this branch of business, so decidedly injurious to the morals andhappiness of communities and individuals, will entirely decline. 

Several companies for manufacturing purposes, have been incorporated bythe legislature. 

_Civil Divisions. _--There are 66 counties laid off in this State, 59 ofwhich are organized for judicial purposes. The six last named in thefollowing table were laid off at the recent session of the legislature, Jan. 1836. The county of _Will_ was formed from portions of Cook, Lasalle, and Iroquois, with the town of Juliet for its seat of justice, near the junction of the Kankakee and Des Plaines. 

In this State, there are no _civil_ divisions into townships as in Ohio, Indiana, &c. The township tracts of six miles square, in the publicsurveys, relate exclusively to the land system. The State is dividedinto _three_ districts to elect representatives to Congress, and into_six_ circuits for judicial purposes. 

TABULAR VIEW OF THE COUNTIES. 

 ------------+----------+------+--------+----------+--------------+----------------- | | | | | |Distance & |Date of |Square|Votes |Population|SEATS OF |bearing from COUNTIES. |formation. |miles. |in 1834. | 1835. |JUSTICE. |Vandalia. ------------+----------+------+--------+----------+--------------+----------------- Adams, | 1825 | 820 | 728 | 7042 |Quincy, |175 _n. W. _ Alexander, | 1819 | 375 | 249 | 2050 |Unity, |135 _s. _ Bond, | 1817 | 360 | 519 | 3580 |Greenville, | 19 _w. S. W. _ Calhoun, | 1825 | 260 | 151 | 1091 |Gilhead, |134 _w. N. W. _ Champaign, | 1833 | 864 | 102 | 1045 |Urbanna, |103 _n. N. E. _ Clark, | 1819 | 500 | 451 | 3413 |Darwin, [A] or | 82 _e. N. E. _ | | | | | Marshall, | Clay, | 1824 | 620 | 172 | 1648 |Maysville, | 50 _s. E. _ Clinton, | 1824 | 500 | 414 | 2648 |Carlyle, | 28 _s. S. W. _ Crawford, | 1816 | 378 | 519 | 3540 |Palestine, |100 _e. _ Coles, | 1830 | 1248 | 680 | 5125 |Charleston, | 75 _n. E. _ Cook, | 1830 | [B] | 528 | 9826 |Chicago, |268 _n. N. E. _ Edgar, | 1823 | 648 | 788 | 6668 |Paris, |100 _n. E. _ Edwards, | 1814 | 200 | 239 | 2006 |Albion, | 96 _s. E. _ Effingham, | 1831 | 486 | 129 | 1055 |Ewington, | 29 _e. N. E. _ Fayette, | 1821 | 684 | 665 | 3638 |VANDALIA, | Franklin, | 1818 | 850 | 759 | 5551 |Frankfort, | 83 _s. _ Fulton, | 1825 | 590 | 607 | 5917 |Lewistown, |135 _n. N. W. _ Gallatin, | 1812 | 828 | 1312 | 8660 |Equality, |100 _s. S. E. _ Greene, | 1821 | 912 | 1360 | 12274 |Carrollton, | 90 _w. N. W. _ Hamilton, | 1821 | 378 | 460 | 2877 |McLeansboro', | 76 _s. S. E. _ Hancock, | 1825 | 775 | 357 | 3249 |Carthage, |180 _n. W. _ Henry (not | 1825 | 800 | -- | 118 | |210 _n. N. W. _ organized, )| | | | | | Iroquois, | 1833 | [B] | 67 | 1164 |(Not |165 _n. N. E. _ | | | | | established, )| Jackson, | 1816 | 576 | 354 | 2783 |Brownsville, | 96 _s. S. W. _ Jasper, | 1831 | 288 | -- | 415 |Newton, | 60 _e. _ Jefferson, | 1819 | 576 | 455 | 3350 |Mount Vernon, | 48 _s. S. E. _ Jo Daviess, | 1827 | [B] | 492 | 4038 |Galena, (nnw) |300 _n. N. W. _ Johnson, | 1812 | 486 | 316 | 2166 |Vienna, |120 _s. _ Knox, | 1825 | 792 | 180 | 1600 |Knoxville, |182 _n. N. W. _ Lasalle, | 1831 | [B] | 289 | 4754 |Ottawa, |187 _n. _ Lawrence, | 1821 | 560 | 618 | 4450 |Lawrenceville, | 88 _e. S. E. _ Macon, | 1829 | 404 | 292 | 3022 |Decatur, | 75 _n. _ Madison, | 1812 | 750 | 1307 | 9016 |Edwardsville, | 58 _w. _ Macoupen, | 1829 | 720 | 624 | 5554 |Carlinville, | 55 _w. N. W. _ Marion, | 1823 | 576 | 372 | 2844 |Salem, | 25 _s. S. E. _ McDonough | 1825 | 576 | 304 | 2883 |Macomb, |155 _n. W. _ McLean, | 1830 | 1916 | 496 | 5311 |Bloomington, |120 _n. _ Mercer, | 1825 | 558 | -- | 497 |New Boston, |209 _n. W. _ Monroe, | 1816 | 360 | 449 | 2660 |Waterloo, | 72 _s. W. _ Montgomery, | 1821 | 960 | 475 | 3740 |Hillsboro', | 28 _n. W. _ Morgan, | 1823 | 1150 | 2717 | 19214 |Jacksonville, | 91 _n. W. _ Peoria, | 1825 | 648 | 223 | 3220 |Peoria, |141 _n. N. W. _ Perry, | 1827 | 446 | 273 | 2201 |Pinckneyville, | 71 _s. S. W. _ Pike, | 1821 | 800 | 657 | 6037 |Pittsfield, |126 _w. N. W. _ Pope, | 1816 | 576 | 444 | 3756 |Golconda, |130 _s. S. E. _ Putnam, | 1825 | 1340 | 383 | 4021 |Hennepin, | 80 _n. _ Randolph, | 1795 | 540 | 814 | 5695 |Kaskaskia, | 90 _s. S. W. _ Rock Island, | 1831 | 377 | 83 | 616 |Stephenson, | 20 _n. W. _ Sangamon, | 1821 | 1234 | 2219 | 17573 |Springfield, | 79 _n. N. W. _ Schuyler, | 1825 | 864 | 680 | 6361 |Rushville, |128 _n. W. _ Shelby, | 1827 | 1080 | 636 | 4848 |Shelbyville, | 40 _n. N. E. _ St. Clair, | 1795 | 1030 | 1183 | 9055 |Belleville, | 64 _w. S. W. _ Tazewell, | 1827 | 1130 | 433 | 5850 |Tremont, |131 _n. _ Union, | 1818 | 396 | 545 | 4156 |Jonesboro', |120 _s. _ Vermillion, | 1826 | 1000 | 1025 | 8103 |Danville, |135 _n. E. _ Wabash, | 1824 | 180 | 441 | 3010 |Mount Carmel, | 95 _s. E. _ Warren, | 1825 | 900 | 266 | 2623 |Monmouth, |184 _n. W. _ Washington, | 1818 | 656 | 333 | 3292 |Nashville, | 48 _s. S. W. _ Wayne, | 1819 | 576 | 471 | 2939 |Fairfield, | 76 _s. E. _ White, | 1815 | 516 | 977 | 6489 |Carmi, |103 _s. E. _

 [A] It is expected the seat of justice of Clark county will be removed to _Marshall_, 10 miles N. W. From Darwin, and on the National Road. The distance is computed to Marshall. 

 [B] These counties have been recently subdivided, and their superficial area is not known. 

 -------------+----------+------+--------+----------+------------------------------- _New Counties| | | | | formed, Jan. |Date of |Square|Votes |Population|SEATS OF JUSTICE. 1836. _ |formation. |miles. |in 1834. | 1835. | -------------+----------+------+--------+----------+------------------------------- Will, | 1836 | | | |Juliett. Whiteside, | " | | | | These counties were taken Kane, | " | | | |from Jo Daviess, Lasalle, Cook, Ogle, | " | | | |and Iroquois. The seats of McHenry, | " | | | |justice not established, and Winnebago, | " | | | |much of the land unsurveyed, +----------+------+--------+----------+though rapidly settling. _Total, _ | | | 34, 102 | 272, 427 |

SKETCHES OF EACH COUNTY. 

ADAMS. --The streams are Bear creek and branches, Cedar, Tyrer, Mill, Fall, and Pigeon creeks, with the Mississippi river on its westernborder. Timber various, with equal portions of prairie. First ratecounty. 

ALEXANDER. --In the forks of the Ohio and Mississippi, with Cashriver through it. All timbered, --half alluvion, --some inundated at highwater, --lime and sandstone on the Ohio;--soil, generally rich. 

BOND. --Shoal creek and its branches through it, with Hurricanecreek on the east side;--proportioned into timber and prairie;--ratherlevel, --second rate. Sandstone, coal, and salt springs. 

CALHOUN. --Long and narrow, in the forks of the Illinois andMississippi;--alluvial and sometimes inundated along the rivers;--brokenbluffs and interior table land;--good soil;--prairies at the foot of thebluffs. Coal, lime and sandstone. 

CHAMPAIGN. --The streams are the heads of the Kaskaskia, Sangamon, Vermillion of Illinois, Salt Fork of the Vermillion of theWabash, and the Embarras, all running in opposite directions. Extensiveprairies, a little undulating and rich;--timber in groves;--many granitebowlders. 

CLARK. --North Fork of Embarras, Mill and Big creeks. Timber andprairie, --second rate soil. 

CLAY. --Watered by Little Wabash and tributaries. Two thirdsprairie, --of inferior quality, --rather level and wet. 

CLINTON. --Kaskaskia river, with its tributaries, Crooked, Shoal, Beaver and Sugar creeks, pass through it. Equally proportionedinto timber and prairie. Soil, second rate; surface, a littleundulating. 

COLES. --The Kaskaskia, Embarras, and heads of the Little Wabashwater it. Much excellent land, --much undulating, rich prairie;--somelevel and wet land in the southeastern part. Timber in sufficientquantities. 

COOK. --Adjoins Lake Michigan, and has the branches of Chicago, Des Plaines, Du Page, Au Sable and Hickory creeks. Surface, tolerablylevel; rich soil, --extensive prairies, --timber in groves;--a few swamps. Plenty of limestone, and the streams run over rocky beds. 

CRAWFORD. --The Wabash river on its eastern side, with Lamotte, Hudson, Raccoon and Sugar creeks. Some level prairies, rather sandy, with a full supply of timber. 

EDGAR. --Watered by Big, Clear, and Brulette's creeks on theeastern, and Little Embarras on its western side. Southern and easternsides timbered; northern and western sides much prairie; someundulating, --some level and rather wet. Grand View is a delightful tractof country. 

EDWARDS. --The Little Wabash on its western, and Bon Pas on itseastern border. Several prairies, high, undulating, and bounded by heavytimber. Soil, second quality. 

EFFINGHAM. --Watered by the Little Wabash and its tributaries;due proportion of timber and prairie; tolerably level, --second rate. 

FAYETTE. --Kaskaskia river, Hurricane, Higgens', Ramsey's andBeck's creeks. The bottom lands on the Kaskaskia low, and inundated athigh water; considerable prairie; much heavy timber; soil, second rate. 

FRANKLIN. --Watered by the Big Muddy and its branches, and theSouth Fork of Saline creek. The prairies small, fertile andlevel, --timber plenty, --soil rather sandy. 

FULTON. --The Illinois on the south-eastern side, with Spoonriver and several small creeks through it. About half heavily timbered, with rich, undulating prairies; streams flow over a pebbly bed; soil, first rate. 

GALLATIN. --Joins the Wabash and Ohio rivers, and has the Salineand branches running through it. Soil, sandy, with sand rock, limestone, quartz crystals, excellent salines, &c. Timber of variouskinds; no prairies. 

GREENE. --Has the Mississippi south, the Illinois west, withOtter, Macoupen and Apple creeks. Much excellent land, both timber andprairie, in due proportion, with abundance of lime and sandstone, andcoal. 

HAMILTON. --Watered by branches of the Saline, and LittleWabash; a large proportion timbered land; soil, second and third rate, with some swamp in the northern part. Sandstone and some lime. 

HANCOCK. --Besides the Mississippi, it has a part of Bear, Crooked, and Camp creeks; large prairies; timber along the streams;rich, first rate land. 

HENRY. --Has Rock river north, with Winnebago swamp, and itsoutlet on Green river, and one of the heads of Spoon river, and Edwardsriver interior. Some rich, undulating prairies and groves, withconsiderable wet, swampy land. Not much population. 

IROQUOIS. --Kankakee, Iroquois and Sugar creek. Sand ridges andplains; much rich prairie; some timber, but deficient. It is foundchiefly in groves and strips along the water courses. 

JACKSON. --Has the Mississippi on the southwest, and Muddy riverrunning diagonally through it, with some of its tributaries. Someprairies in the north-eastern part, --much heavy timber, --some hilly andbroken land, --with abundance of coal, saline springs, lime andsandstone. 

JASPER. --The Embarras runs through it, and the Muddy Fork ofthe Little Wabash waters its western side. Much of both the prairie andtimbered land is level and rather wet; some fertile tracts. 

JEFFERSON. --Watered by several branches of the Big Muddy andLittle Wabash. Soil, second rate; surface, a little undulating; onethird prairie; several sulphur and other medicinal springs. 

JO DAVIESS. --Formerly embraced all the State north-west of Rockriver, but recently divided into three or four counties. Besides theMississippi, it has Fever river, Pekatonokee, Apple river, and Rush andPlum creeks. A rich county, both for agricultural and mining purposes. Timber scarce, and in groves; surface undulating, --in some places hilly;well watered by streams and springs, and has good mill sites. Copper andlead ore in abundance. 

JOHNSON. --The Ohio on the south, Cash river and Big Bay creek, and a series of lakes or ponds interior. A timbered country, tolerablylevel; soil sandy, with considerable quantities of second rate land. 

KNOX. --Watered by Henderson and Spoon rivers, and theirtributaries. The prairies large, moderately undulating, and firstquality of soil, with excellent timber along the water courses. 

LASALLE. --Besides the Illinois river, which passes through it, Fox river, Big and Little Vermillion, Crow, Au Sable, Indian, Mason, Tomahawk, and other creeks, water this county. They generally run on abed of sand or lime rock, and have but little alluvial bottom lands. Deficient in timber, but has an abundance of rich, undulating prairie, beautiful groves, abundant water privileges, and extensive coal banks. 

LAWRENCE. --The Wabash east, Fox river west, and Embarras andRaccoon through it. An equal proportion of timber and prairie, someexcellent, other parts inferior, --and some bad, miry swamps, called"_purgatories_. "

MACON. --South-east portion, watered by the Kaskaskia andtributaries; the middle and northern portions by the North Fork ofSangamon, and the north-western part by Salt creek. The prairies large, and in their interior, level and wet, --towards the timber, dry, undulating and rich. 

MADISON. --The Mississippi lies west; Cahokia and Silver creeks, and Wood river, run through it. A part of this county lies in theAmerican bottom, and is a rich and level alluvion; but much of thecounty is high, undulating, and proportionably divided into timber andprairie. Well supplied with stone quarries and coal banks. 

MACOUPEN. --The Macoupen creek and branches water its centraland western parts, the Cahokia the south-eastern, and the heads of Woodriver and Piasau, the south-western parts. A large proportion of thecounty is excellent soil, well proportioned into timber and prairie, andslightly undulating. 

MARION. --Watered by the East Fork, and Crooked creek, tributaries of Kaskaskia river, on its western, and heads of SkilletFork of Little Wabash on its eastern side. Much of the land of secondquality, slightly undulating, about one third timbered, --some of theprairie land level, and inclined to be wet. 

MCDONOUGH. --Crooked creek and its branches water most of thecounty. The eastern side, for 8 or 10 miles in width, is prairie, --thewestern and middle parts suitably divided between prairie and forestland; surface, moderately undulating; soil, very rich. 

MCLEAN. --One third of the eastern, and a portion of thenorthern side, is one vast prairie. The timber is beautifully arrangedin groves; the surface moderately undulating, and the soil dry and rich. The head waters of the Sangamon, Mackinau, and the Vermillion of theIllinois, are in this county. Its minerals are quarries of lime andsandstone, and granite bowlders, scattered over the prairies. 

MERCER. --Has the Mississippi on the west, and Pope and Edwardsrivers interior, along which are fine tracts of timber; in its middleand eastern parts are extensive prairies; surface, generally undulating;soil, rich. 

MONROE. --Watered by Horse, Prairie de Long, and Fountaincreeks. The American bottom adjacent to the Mississippi is richalluvion, and divided into timber and prairie. On the bluffs are ravinesand sink-holes, with broken land. Further interior is a mixture oftimber and prairie. Abundance of limestone, coal, and some copper. 

MONTGOMERY. --Watered by Shoal creek and branches, and HurricaneFork. Surface, high and undulating, and proportionably divided intotimber and prairie. Soil, second rate. 

MORGAN. --A first rate county, --well proportioned into prairieand forest lands, --much of the surface undulating; watered by theIllinois river and Mauvaise-terre, Indian, Plum, Walnut, and Sandycreeks, and heads of Apple creek. Coal, lime and freestone. 

PEORIA. --Watered by the Illinois, Kickapoo, Copperas, Senatchwine, and heads of Spoon river. Surface, moderately rolling, richsoil, and proportionately divided into prairie and forest. 

PERRY. --Streams; Big Beaucoup, and Little Muddy; one thirdprairie, tolerably level, and second rate soil. 

PIKE. --Besides Mississippi and Illinois, which wash two sides, it has the Suycartee slough, running through its western border, andnavigable for steamboats, and a number of smaller creeks. The land andsurface various, --much of it excellent undulating soil, --some richalluvion, inundated at high water, --large tracts of table land, high, rolling, and rich, with due proportion of timber and prairie. A largesalt spring. 

POPE. --With the Ohio river east and south, it has Big Bay, Lusk's, and Big creeks interior. A timbered region, tolerably level, except at the bluffs, with good sandy soil, and sand and limestone. 

PUTNAM. --The Illinois runs through it, --Spoon river waters itsnorth-western part, and Bureau, Crow, Sandy, and some other streams, water its middle portions. Here are beautiful groves of timber, andrich, undulating and dry prairies, fine springs, and good mill sites. Lime, sand and freestone, and bituminous coal. A few tracts of wetprairie, with some ponds and swamps, are in the north-western part. 

RANDOLPH. --Has the Mississippi along the western side;Kaskaskia river passes diagonally through it; soil, of every quality, from first rate to indifferent; surface, equally as various, with rockyprecipices at the termination of the alluvial bottoms. 

ROCK ISLAND. --Is at the mouth of Rock river, which, with theMississippi, and some minor streams, drain the county. Rich alluvionalong the Mississippi, with much excellent table land, --both timber andprairie interior. Some wet, level prairie, south of Rock river. 

SANGAMON. --Watered by Sangamon river and its numerous branches. Much of the soil is of the richest quality, with due proportions oftimber and prairie, moderately undulating, and a first rate county. 

SCHUYLER. --The south-eastern side has the Illinois, theinterior has Crooked and Crane creeks, and the south-west has McKee'screek. Along the Illinois is much timber, with some inundated bottomlands. Interior, there is a due proportion of prairie and timber andrich soil, with an undulating surface. 

SHELBY. --Is watered by the Kaskaskia and tributaries; has alarge amount of excellent land, both timber and prairie, with good soil, moderately undulating. 

ST. CLAIR. --The streams are Cahokia, Prairie du Pont, Ogle's, Silver, Richland, and Prairie de Long creeks, and Kaskaskia river. Theland is various, much of which is good, first and second rate, andproportionably divided into timber, prairie, and barrens. The mineralsare lime and sandstone, and extensive beds of coal, and shale. 

TAZEWELL. --Watered by the Illinois, Mackinau, and theirtributaries. Much of the surface is undulating, soil rich; prairiepredominates, but considerable timber, with some broken land about thebluffs of Mackinau, and some sand ridges and swamps in the southern partof the county. 

UNION. --Watered by the Mississippi, Clear creek, the heads ofCash, and some of the small tributaries of the Big Muddy. Much of thesurface is rolling and hilly, --all forest land. Soil, second and thirdrate. Some rich alluvial bottom. 

VERMILLION. --Is watered by Big and Little Vermillion of theWabash, with large bodies of excellent timber along the streams, andrich prairies interior. Surface, undulating and dry; soil, deep, rich, and calcareous. 

WABASH. --Has Wabash river on the east, Bon Pas on the west, andsome small creeks central; surface rolling, and a mixture of timber andprairie; soil, generally second rate. Minerals; lime and sandstone. 

WARREN. --Besides the Mississippi, its principal stream isHenderson river, which passes through it, with Ellison, Honey, and Campcreeks. Much of the land on these streams is rich, undulating, deficientsomewhat in timber, with excellent prairie. Along the Mississippi, andabout the mouth of Henderson, the land is inundated in high water. 

WASHINGTON. --Has the Kaskaskia on its north-western side, withElkhorn, Little Muddy, Beaucoup, and Little Crooked creeks interior. Theprairies are rather level, and in places inclined to be wet; the timber, especially along the Kaskaskia, heavy. 

WAYNE. --The Little Wabash, with its tributaries, Elm river, andSkillet Fork, are its streams. It is proportionably interspersed withprairie and woodland, generally of second quality. 

WHITE. --The eastern side washed by the Big Wabash, along whichis a low, inundated bottom; the interior is watered by the LittleWabash and its tributaries. Some prairie, but mostly timber. Soil andsurface various. Some rich bottom prairies, with sandy soil. 

TOWNS. 

Vandalia is the seat of government till 1840, after which it is to beremoved to Alton, according to a vote of the people in 1834, unless theyshould otherwise direct. It is situated on the right bank of theKaskaskia river, in N. Lat. 39° 0' 42", and 58 miles in a direct line, alittle north of east from Alton. The public buildings are temporary. Population, about 750. 

_Alton. _ Two towns of this name are distinguished as Alton, and UpperAlton. Alton is an incorporated town, situated on the bank of theMississippi, two and a half miles above the mouth of the Missouri, andat the place where the curve of the Mississippi penetrates the furthestinto Illinois, 18 miles below the mouth of the Illinois river. Forsituation, commerce, business of all kinds, health, and rapidity ofgrowth, it far exceeds any other town on the east bank of theMississippi, above New Orleans. The population is about 2000. Thecommercial business done here is already immense, and extends throughmore than half of Illinois, besides a large trade on the western side ofthe Mississippi. Five large mercantile establishments do wholesalebusiness only, four do wholesale and retail, besides four wholesale andretail groceries, and fifteen or twenty retail stores and groceries;and yet many more mercantile houses are necessary for the business ofthe country. Great facilities for business of almost every description, especially for every kind of mechanics, are to be had here. It offersone of the best situations on the western waters for building andrepairing steamboats. Town lots and lands adjacent have risen in valuefrom 500 to 1000 per cent. Within the last twelve months. 

Alton has respectable and well finished houses of worship for thePresbyterian, Methodist Protestant, and Baptist denominations; two goodschools, a Lyceum, that holds weekly meetings, and two printing-offices. The population in general, is a moral, industrious, enterprising class. Few towns in the West have equalled this in contributions for public andbenevolent objects, in proportion to age and population. 

Arrangements have been made for doing an extensive business in theslaughtering and packing of pork and beef. Four houses are engaged inthat line, and have slaughtered about 25, 000 hogs the present season. Many buildings will be erected the approaching season, amongst whichwill be an extensive hotel, which is much needed. The town is situatedat the base, side, and top, of the first bluffs that extend to theriver, above the mouth of the Kaskaskia. Adjacent to it, and which willeventually become amalgamated, is Middletown, laid off directly in therear. 

_Upper Alton_ is from two and a half to three miles back from the river, and in the rear of Lower Alton, on elevated ground, and in every respecta very healthy situation. It has exceeding 120 families, and is rapidlyimproving. Adjacent to it, and forming now a part of the town plat, is"_Shurtleff College, of Alton, Illinois_, " which bids fair to become animportant and flourishing institution. Also "_Alton TheologicalSeminary_, " which has commenced operations. Both these institutions havebeen gotten up under the influence and patronage of the Baptistdenomination. A female seminary of a high order, under the name of the"_Alton Female Institute_, " has been chartered, and a building is aboutto be erected for the purpose. The Baptists, Methodists andPresbyterians have congregations here, and two houses of worship are tobe built the present year. 

_Chicago_ is the largest commercial town in Illinois. It is situated atthe junction of North and South branches, and along the main Chicago, near its entrance into lake Michigan, on a level prairie, but elevatedabove the highest floods. A recent communication from a respectablemercantile house, gives the following statistics: "Fifty-one stores, 30groceries, 10 taverns, 12 physicians, 21 attorneys, and 4, 000inhabitants. We have four churches, and two more building, one bank, aMarine and Fire Insurance company about to go into operation, and abrick hotel, containing 90 apartments. 

There were 9 arrivals and departures of steamboats in 1835, and 267 ofbrigs and schooners, containing 5, 015 tons of merchandise and 9, 400barrels of salt, besides lumber, provisions, &c. 

The harbor now constructing by the U. S. Government, will be so farcompleted in 1836, as to admit vessels and steamboats navigating thelakes. A few miles back of Chicago are extensive tracts of wet prairie. 

_Galena_ is the seat of justice for Jo Daviess county, situated on Feverriver, in the midst of the mining district. It has about 20 stores, adozen groceries, and about 1, 000 inhabitants. 

_Springfield_ is near the geographical centre of the State, and in themidst of a most fertile region of country. It is a flourishing inlandtown, and contains about 2, 000 inhabitants. _Jacksonville_, the countyseat of Morgan county, has about the same population, and is equallydelightful and flourishing. 

One mile west, on a most beautiful eminence, stands "_IllinoisCollege_, " founded under the auspices of the Presbyterian denomination, and bids fair to become a flourishing seat of learning. 

I have not room to name, much less describe, the many growing towns andvillages in this State, that excite and deserve the attention ofemigrants. On the Illinois river are Ottawa, and several eligible sitesin its vicinity, where towns have commenced; Beardstown, a shortdistance below the mouth of Sangamon river, Peoria, at the foot ofPeoria lake, (a most beautiful site, and containing 1, 000 inhabitants, )Meredosia, Naples, Pekin, Hennepin, &c. On the Mississippi, are Quincy, Warsaw, New Boston, and Stephenson, the seat of justice for Rock Islandcounty. Interior, are Bloomington, Decatur, Tremont, Shelbyville, Hillsboro', Edwardsville, Carlyle, Belleville, Carrollton, and manyothers. Towards the Wabash, are Danville, Paris, Lawrenceville, Carmi, and Mount Carmel, the last of which has an importance from beingconnected with the grand rapids of the Wabash. Shawneetown is thecommercial depot for the south-eastern part of the State. On theMilitary Tract are Rushville, Pittsfield, Griggsville, Carthage, Macomb, Monmouth, Knoxville, Lewistown, Canton, &c. , all pleasant sites, andhaving a population from two or three hundred to one thousandinhabitants. 

For a more particular description of each county, town, and settlement, with all other particulars of Illinois, the reader is referred to "AGAZETTEER OF ILLINOIS, " by the author of this GUIDE. 

_Projected Improvements. _--The project of uniting the waters of lakeMichigan and the Illinois, by a canal, was conceived soon after thecommencement of the Grand canal of New York, and a Board ofcommissioners, with engineers, explored the route and estimated thecost, in 1823. Provision, by a grant of each alternate section of landwithin five miles of the route, having been granted by Congress, another Board of commissioners was appointed in 1829, a new survey wasmade, and the towns of Chicago and Ottawa laid off, and some lots soldin 1830. Various movements have since been made, but nothing effectuallydone, until the recent special session of the legislature, when an actwas passed to authorize the Governor to borrow funds upon the faith ofthe State; a new Board of commissioners has been organized, and thisgreat work is about to be prosecuted with vigor to its completion. 

Funds, in part, have been provided, from the sales of certain salinelands belonging to the State, to improve the navigation of the GreatWabash, at the Grand Rapids, near the mouth of White river, inconjunction with the State of Indiana. From the same source, funds areto be applied to the clearing out of several navigable water-courses, and repairing roads, within the State. 

Charters have been granted to several rail-road companies, some of whichhave been surveyed and the stock taken. One from Alton to Springfieldwas surveyed last year, and the stock subscribed in December. Anotherfrom St. Louis, by the coal mines of St. Clair county, to Belleville, 13miles, is expected to be made immediately. The project of a centralrailway from the termination of the Illinois and Michigan canal, at thefoot of the rapids, a few miles below Ottawa, --through Bloomington, Decatur, Shelbyville, Vandalia, and on to the mouth of the Ohio river, has been entered upon with spirit. Another charter contemplates thecontinuance of a route, already provided for in Indiana, and noticedunder Ohio, from La Fayette, Ia. By Danville, Shelbyville andHillsboro, ' to Alton, the nearest point from the east to theMississippi. A rail-road charter was granted at a previous session ofthe legislature from Meredosia to Jacksonville, and another fromVincennes to Chicago. 

We have only room to mention the following charters, which have beenrecently granted, in addition to those already specified:

One from Pekin to Tremont, in Tazewell county, 9 miles. 

One from the Wabash, by Peoria to Warsaw, in Hancock county. 

The Wabash and Mississippi rail-road company. 

The Mount Carmel and Alton rail-road company. 

The Rushville rail-road company. 

The Winchester, Lynville, and Jacksonville rail-road company. 

The Shawneetown and Alton rail-road company. 

The Pekin, Bloomington, and Wabash rail-road company. 

The Waverly and Grand Prairie rail-road company. 

The Galena and Chicago Union rail-road company. 

The Wabash and Mississippi Union rail-road company. 

The Mississippi, Carrollton and Springfield rail-road company. 

The _National Road_ is in progress through this State, and considerablehas been made on that portion which lies between Vandalia and theboundary of Indiana. This road enters Illinois at the north-east cornerof Clark county, and passes diagonally through Coles and Effinghamcounties in a south-westerly course to Vandalia, a distance of 90 miles. The road is established 80 feet wide, the central part 30 feet wide, raised above standing water, and not to exceed three degrees from alevel. The base of all the abutments of bridges must be equal inthickness to one third of the height of the abutment. 

The road is not yet placed in a travelling condition. The line of theroad is nearly direct, the loss in 90 miles being only the 88th part ofone per cent. Between Vandalia and Ewington, for 23 miles, it does notdeviate in the least from a direct line. 

From Vandalia westward, the road is not yet located, but it willprobably pass to Alton. 

_Education. _--The same provision has been made for this as other WesternStates, in the disposal of the public lands. The section numberedsixteen in each township of land, is sold upon petition of the peoplewithin the township, and the avails constitute a permanent fund, theinterest of which is annually applied towards the expenses, in part, ofthe education of those who attend school, living within the township. 

A school system, in part, has been arranged by the legislature. Thepeculiar and unequal division of the country into timber and prairielands, and the inequality of settlements consequent thereupon, willprevent, for many years to come, the organization of school districtswith _defined geographical boundaries_. To meet this inconvenience, thelegislature has provided that any number of persons can elect threetrustees, employ a teacher in any mode they choose, and receive theirproportion of the avails of the school funds. _In all cases, however, the teacher must keep a daily account of each scholar who attendsschool, and make out a schedule of the aggregate that each scholarattends, every six months_, and present it, certified by the trustees ofthe school, to the school commissioner of the county, who apportions themoney accordingly. 

This State receives three per cent. On all the net avails of publiclands sold in this State, which, with the avails of two townships sold, makes a respectable and rapidly increasing fund, the interest only ofwhich can be expended, and that only to the payment of instructers. 

Good common school teachers, both male and female, are greatly needed, and will meet with ready employ, and liberal wages. Here is a mostdelightful and inviting field for Christian activity. Common school, with Sunday school instruction, calls for thousands of teachers in theWest. 

Several respectable academies, are in operation, and the wants andfeelings of the community call for many more. Besides the colleges atJacksonville and Alton already noticed, others are projected, andseveral have been chartered. The Methodist denomination have a buildingerected, and a preparatory school commenced, at Lebanon, St. Claircounty. The Episcopalians are about establishing a college atSpringfield. One or more will be demanded in the northern and easternportions of the State; and it may be calculated that, in a very briefperiod, the State of Illinois will furnish facilities for a useful andgeneral education, equal to those in any part of the country. 

_Government. _--The Constitution of Illinois was formed by a conventionheld at Kaskaskia, in August, 1818. It provides for the distribution ofthe powers of government into three distinct departments, --thelegislative, executive, and judiciary. The legislative authority isvested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and house ofrepresentatives. Elections are held biennially, as are the ordinarysessions of the legislature. Senators are elected for four years. 

The executive power is vested in the governor, who is chosen everyfourth year, by the electors for representatives; but the same person isineligible for the next succeeding four years. The lieutenant governoris also chosen every four years. 

The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, and such inferiorcourts as the general assembly from time to time shall establish. Thesupreme court consists of a chief justice and three associate judges. 

The governor and judges of the supreme court constitute a council ofrevision, to which all bills that have passed the assembly must besubmitted. If objected to by the council of revision, the same maybecome a law by the vote of a majority of all the members elected toboth houses. 

The right of suffrage is universal. All white male inhabitants, citizensof the United States, twenty-one years of age, and who have residedwithin the State six months next preceding the elections, enjoy theright of voting. Votes are given _viva voce_. The introduction ofslavery is prohibited. The Constitution can only be altered by aconvention. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

1. Farms somewhat improved, are almost daily exchanging owners, and aconsiderable spirit of enterprise has been awakened within a year or twopast. The prices of farms and improvements vary greatly, and areinfluenced much by factitious and local circumstances. From St. Claircounty northward, they average probably from five to ten dollars peracre, and are rising in value. In some counties, farms will cost from 2to 5 dollars per acre. A _farm_ in Illinois, however, means a tract ofland, much of it in a state of nature, with some cheap, and, frequently, log buildings, with 20, 40, 60, 80, or 100 acres, fenced and cultivated. Good dwellings of brick, stone, or wood, begin to be erected. Amongstthe older residents, there have been but few barns made. The want ofadequate supplies of lumber, and of mechanics, renders good buildingsmore expensive than in the new countries of New England or New York. 

2. Merchant's goods, groceries, household furniture, and almost everynecessary and comfort in house-keeping, can be purchased here; and manyarticles retail at about the same prices as in the Atlantic States. 

3. The following table will exhibit the cost of 320 acres of land, atCongress price, and preparing 160 acres for cultivation or prairie land:

 Cost of 320 acres at $1, 25 per acre, $400 Breaking up 160 acres prairie, $2 per acre, 320 Fencing it into four fields with a Kentucky fence of eight rails high, with cross stakes, 175 Add cost of cabins, corn cribs, stable, &c. 250 ----- Making the cost of the farm, $1145

In many instances, a single crop of wheat will pay for the land, forfencing, breaking up, cultivating, harvesting, threshing, and taking tomarket. 

4. All kinds of mechanical labor, especially those in the building line, are in great demand; and workmen, even very coarse and common workmen, get almost any price they ask. Journeymen mechanics get $2 per day. Acarpenter or brick mason wants no other capital, to do first ratebusiness, and soon become independent, than a set of tools, and habitsof industry, sobriety, economy and enterprise. 

5. Common laborers on the farm obtain from $12 to $15 per month, including board. Any young man, with industrious habits, can begin herewithout a dollar, and in a very few years become a substantial farmer. Agood cradler in the harvest field will earn from $1, 50 to $2 per day. 

6. Much that we have stated in reference to Illinois, will equally applyto Missouri, or any other Western State. Many general principles havebeen laid down, and particular facts exhibited, with respect to thegeneral description of the State, soil, timber, kinds of land, and othercharacteristics, under Illinois, and, to save repetition, are omittedelsewhere. 

FOOTNOTES:

[11] Beck. 

CHAPTER XII. 

MISSOURI. 

Length, 278; medium breadth, 235 miles: containing 64, 500 square miles, and containing 41, 280, 000 acres. 

Bounded north by the Des Moines country, or New Purchase, attached toWisconsin Territory, west by the Indian Territory, south by Arkansas, and east by the Mississippi river. Between 36° and 40° 37' N. Latitude, and between 11° 15' and 17° 30' west longitude. 

_Civil Divisions. _--It is divided into 50 counties, as follows:--Barry, Benton, Boone, Callaway, Cape Girardeau, Carroll, Chaviton, Clay, Clinton, Cole, Cooper, Crawford, Franklin, Gasconade, Green, Howard, Jackson, Jefferson, Johnson, La Fayette, Lewis, Lincoln, Madison, Marion, Munroe, Montgomery, Morgan, New Madrid, Perry, Pettis, Pike, Polk, Pulaski, Randolph, Ralls, Ray, Ripley, Rives, St. Francois, St. Genevieve, St. Charles, St. Louis, Saline, Scott, Shelby, Stoddart, VanBuren, Warren, Washington, and Wayne. 

POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS. 

 _Population. _ | _Increase. _ 1810, (including Arkansas, ) 19, 833 | From 1810 to 1820, 46, 753 1820, 66, 586 | " 1820 " 1824, 14, 500 1824, 80, 000 | " 1824 " 1830, 60, 455 1830, 140, 455 | " 1830 " 1832, 35, 820 1832, 176, 276 | " 1832 " 1836, 33, 724 1836, (estimated for Jan'y) 210, 000 |

The Constitution is similar to that of Illinois, in its broad features, excepting the holding of slaves is allowed, and the General Assembly hasno power to pass laws for the emancipation of slaves, without theconsent of their owners, or paying an equivalent. It is made the duty ofthe General Assembly "to oblige the owners of slaves to treat them withhumanity, and to abstain from all injuries to them extending to life orlimb. " "Slaves shall not be deprived of an impartial trial by jury. " In1832, there were in the State, 32, 184 slaves, and 661 free coloredpersons. Every free white male citizen has the right of suffrage, aftera residence in the State of one year. 

_Surface, Soil and Productions. _--The surface of this State is greatlydiversified. South of Cape Girardeau, with the exception of some bluffsalong the Mississippi, it is entirely alluvial, and a large proportionconsists of swamp and inundated lands, the most of which are heavilytimbered. From thence to the Missouri river, and westward to thedividing grounds between the waters of the Osage and Gasconade rivers, the country is generally timbered, rolling, and in some parts, quitehilly. No part of Missouri, however, is strictly mountainous. Along thewaters of Gasconade and Black rivers the hills are frequently abrupt androcky, with strips of rich alluvion along the water courses. Much ofthis region abounds with minerals of various descriptions. Lead, iron, coal, gypsum, manganese, zinc, antimony, cobalt, ochre of various kinds, common salt, nitre, plumbago, porphyry, jasper, chalcedony, buhrstone, marble, and freestone, of various qualities. The lead and iron ore areliterally exhaustless, and of the richest quality. To say there isprobably iron ore enough in this region to supply the United States withiron for one hundred thousand years to come, would not be extravagant. Here, too, is water power in abundance, rapid streams, with pebbly beds, forests of timber, and exhaustless beds of bituminous coal. The onlydifficulty of working this vast body of minerals is the inconvenience ofgetting its proceeds to the Mississippi. The streams that rise in thisregion, run different courses into the Missouri, the Mississippi, andthe Arkansas, but they are too rapid and winding in their courses toafford safe and easy navigation. 

Were the rafts now lodged in the St. Francois, removed by the agency ofgovernment, as they have been in Red river, the lower section of themineral country could be reached by steamboat navigation. The citizensof St. Louis, very recently, have entered upon the project of a railwayfrom that city, through the heart of this country, to the fine farminglands in the south-western part of the State. Such a project, carriedinto effect, would open a boundless field of wealth in Missouri. 

The western part of the State is divided into prairie and forest land, much of which is fertile. Along the Osage, it is hilly, and the whole isundulating, and regarded as a healthy region, abounding with good water, salt springs, and limestone. North of the Missouri the face of thecountry is diversified, with a mixture of timber and prairie. From theMissouri to Salt river, good springs are scarce, and in several countiesit is difficult to obtain permanent water by digging wells. Artificialwells, as they may be called, are made by digging a well forty or fiftyfeet deep, and replenishing it with a current of rain water from theroof of the dwelling house. Much of the prairie land in this part of theState is inferior to the first quality of prairie land in Illinois, asthe soil is more clayey, and does not so readily absorb the water. Between Salt river and Des Moines, is a beautiful and rich country ofland. The counties of Ralls, Marion, Monroe, Lewis and Shelby, are firstrate. The counties of Warren, Montgomery, Callaway, Boone, Howard, andChaviton, all lying on the north side of the Missouri river, arerolling, --in some places are bluffs and hills, with considerable goodprairie, and an abundance of timbered land. Farther west, theproportion of prairie increases to the boundary line, as it does to thenorthward of Boone, Howard and Chaviton counties. After making ampledeductions for inferior soil, ranges of barren hills, and large tractsof swamp, as in the south, the State of Missouri contains a vastproportion of excellent farming land. The people generally areenterprising, hardy and industrious, and most of those who hold slaves, perform labor with them. Emigrants from every State and severalcountries of Europe, are found here, but the basis of the population isfrom Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia. The natural productions ofMissouri are similar to those States already described, and theagricultural productions are the same as in Illinois, except that moretobacco is produced in the middle, and considerable quantities of cottonin the southern counties. 

_Towns. _--The city of Jefferson is the political capital of the State. It is situated on the right bank of the Missouri, a few miles above themouth of the Osage, and about 138 miles from St. Louis. It is a smalltown, with little business, except what pertains to the government ofthe State. A state house, governor's house and penitentiary have beenerected. 

St. Louis is the commercial capital, and the most important place in allthis portion of the Valley of the Mississippi. It stands on the westernbank of the Mississippi, 180 miles above the junction of the Ohio, 18miles below that of the Missouri, and 38 miles below that of theIllinois. It is beautifully situated on ascending and elevated ground, which spreads out into an undulating surface to the west for many miles. Two streets are parallel with the river on the first bank, and the restof the city stands on the second bank; but very little grading isnecessary, to give the streets running back from the river, their properinclination. The old streets, designed only for a French village, aretoo narrow for public convenience, but a large part of the city has beenlaid out on a liberal scale. The Indian and Spanish trade, the fur andpeltry business, lead, government agencies, army supplies, surveys ofgovernment lands, with the regular trade of an extensive interiorcountry, makes St. Louis a place of great business, in proportion to itspopulation, which is about 10, 000. 

The following, from the register of the wharf master, will exhibit thecommerce for 1835:

STEAMBOAT REGISTER. 

 Number of different boats arrived, 121 Aggregate of tonnage, 15, 470 Number of arrivals, 803 Wharfage collected, $4, 573. 60

 _Wood and Lumber, liable to Wharfage. _

 Plank, joist, and scantling, 1, 414, 330 feet. Shingles, 148, 000 Cedar posts, 7, 706 Cords of fire-wood, 8, 066

The proportionate increase of business will be seen by reference to thefollowing registry for 1831:

 Different steamboats arrived, 60 Average amount of tonnage, 7, 769 Number of entries, 532

The morality, intelligence and enterprise of this city is equal to anyother in the West, in proportion to its size. The American population ismost numerous, but there are many French, Irish and Germans. About onethird of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics. The Presbyterians, Methodists, and Episcopalians have large congregations and houses ofworship: the Baptists and Unitarians are rather small, and withoutpublic edifices. The Roman Catholic cathedral is a costly pile ofbuildings of freestone, and has a splendid chime of bells, sent overfrom Europe. St. Louis is a pleasant and healthy situation, andsurrounded with a fertile country. 

We have not space to give particulars respecting many interesting andflourishing towns in Missouri. 

Cape Girardeau is a commercial depot for the southern part of the State. St. Genevieve stands a little back from the river, and is known only asan old French village. 

Selma is a landing and depot for the lead mine country, 38 miles belowSt. Louis. 

Clarksville, Hannibal, Saverton, and La Grange are commercial sites onthe Mississippi, above the mouth of Missouri. Palmyra is a beautifultown, of about 1, 000 inhabitants, and the seat of justice for Marioncounty. Along the Missouri are Portland, Rocheport, Boonville, Lexington, Independence, and many other places of various degrees ofimportance. Franklin formerly stood on the north bank of Missouri, butmost of it has been removed, three miles interior, to the bluffs. Potosiis a central town, in the mineral district. Fulton, Columbia, andFayette are the seats of justice for Callaway, Boone, and Howardcounties, and are pleasant and flourishing towns. 

About the same provision for education has been made in this as in otherWestern States, and a disposition to encourage schools, academies andcolleges is fast increasing. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

ARKANSAS, AND TERRITORIAL DISTRICTS. 

Arkansas, which has recently formed a constitution, lies between 33° and36° 30' N. Latitude, and between 13° 30' and 17° 45' W. Longitude. Length, 235; medium breadth, 222 miles;--containing about 50, 000 squaremiles, and 32, 000, 000 acres. 

_Civil Divisions. _--The following are the counties, with the population, from the census taken in 1835:

 Counties. Population. 

 Arkansas, 2, 080 Carroll, 1, 357 Chicot, 2, 471 Conway, 1, 214 Clark, 1, 285 Crawford, 3, 139 Crittenden, 1, 407 Greene, 971 Hempstead, 2, 955 Hot-Spring, 6, 117 Independence, 2, 653 Izard, 1, 879 Jackson, 891 Jefferson, 1, 474 Johnson, 1, 803 La Fayette, 1, 446 Lawrence, 3, 844 Miller, 1, 373 Mississippi, 600 Monroe, 556 Phillips, 1, 518 Pike, 449 Pope, 1, 318 Pulaski, 3, 513 Scott, 100 Sevier, 1, 350 St. Francis, 1, 896 Union, 878 Van Buren, 855 Washington, 6, 742 ------ Total, 58, 212

Another table we have seen, makes out the population, as officiallyreported (with the exception of two counties, from which returns had notbeen made, ) to be 51, 809;--white males, 22, 535; white females, 19, 386;--total whites, 41, 971: slaves, 9, 629;--free persons of color, 209. The population, in 1830, 30, 388;--in 1833, 40, 660. 

The following graphical description of Arkansas, from the pen of aclergyman in that State, is corroborated by testimony in our possession, from various correspondents. It was written in 1835. 

_Letter from Rev. Harvey Woods, to the Editor of the CincinnatiJournal. _

"Arkansas Territory is a part of that vast country ceded to the UnitedStates by France, in 1803. From the time of the purchase, till lately, the tide of emigration hardly reached thus far. In 1800, the populationwas 1052. Arkansas was erected into a Territory in 1819. At this time itis receiving a share of those who retire beyond the Mississippi. 

_Rivers. _--The Territory is admirably intersected with navigable rivers. The Mississippi on the east, the Great Red river on the south. Betweenthese, and running generally from N. W. To S. E. Are the St. Francis, White, Arkansas, and Washitau rivers; all fine streams for steamboatnavigation. 

_Face of the Country. _--It is various. No country affords morediversified scenery. The country in the east, for 100 miles, is flatwith marshes and swamps; in the middle, broken and hilly; and in thewest, hilly and mountainous. There are some prairies, some thicklytimbered land, some heavy timbered. The country is generally a timberedcountry. Some parts are sandy, some rocky, and some flinty. 

_Soil. _--Should a man travel here, and expect to find all good land, hewould be sadly disappointed. The best lands are generally contiguous tothe rivers and creeks; and these are exceedingly fertile, not surpassedby any soil in the United States. Arkansas soil that is rich, has justsand enough to make it lively and elastic. Our best lands are coveredwith walnut, hackberry, mulberry, oak, ash, grape vines, &c. 

_Water. _--The hilly and mountainous parts are well supplied withsprings, limestone, and freestone. Also good streams for mills. In theflat country, good water is easily obtained by digging. 

_Productions. _--Cotton and corn are the principal. The Arkansas cottonscommanded the best price last season, in the Liverpool market. It is acountry of unequalled advantages for raising horses, mules, cattle andhogs. 

_Climate. _--It is mild, and from its difference in latitude, say from32° 40' to 36° 30' N. , and the difference in local situation, we wouldguess, and correctly too, that there is much difference in the health ofdifferent places; the high and northern parts healthy, and the flat andsouthern subject to agues and bilious fevers. The climate has beenconsidered unhealthy to new settlers; but it is not more so than othernew countries. 

_Minerals. _--There are quantities of iron, lead, coal, salt, and, it isasserted by some, silver. There are many salt and sulphur springs. Onthe Arkansas river, beyond the limits of the Territory proper, is asection of country called the salt prairie, which, according to goodauthority, is covered for many miles, from four to six inches deep, withpure white salt. In the Hot Spring country, are the famous hot springs, much resorted to by persons of chronic and paralytic diseases. Thetemperature, in dry, hot weather, is at boiling point. 

_State of Society. _--The general character of the people is brave, hardy, and enterprising--frequently without the polish of literature, yet kind and hospitable. The people are now rapidly improving in moralsand intellect. They are as ready to encourage schools, the preaching ofthe gospel, and the benevolent enterprises of the age, as any people innew countries. The consequences of living here a long time without theopportunity of educating their children, and destitute of the means ofgrace, are, among this population, just what they always will be undersimilar circumstances. Ministers of all denominations are "few and farbetween. " We have no need _here_ to build on other's foundation. 

I am living in Jackson county, on White river. This county has a largerquantity of good land than any one in the Territory. White river isalways navigable for steamboats to this place, 350 miles from its mouth. Well-water is good, --some fine springs. Washington county, and someothers, that have the reputation of better health, are more populous. 

We want settlers; and we have no doubt that vast numbers of families inthe States, particularly the poor, and those in moderate circumstances, would better their situation by coming here, where they can get plentyof fertile and fresh land at government price, $1, 25 per acre. They canhave good range, and all the advantages of new countries. Emigrants, however, ought not to suffer themselves to expect all sunshine, and nowinter. We have cloudy days and cold weather, even in Arkansas! If theyhave heard of the _honey pond_, where flitters grow on trees, they neednot be surprised if they don't find it. Cabins cannot be built, wellsdug, farms opened, rails made, and meeting-houses and school-houseserected, without work. 

It may be asked, "If Arkansas be so fine a country, why has it not beensettled faster?" There are perhaps three reasons;--a fear of theIndians, a fear of sickness, a fear of bad roads. The Indians are nowall peaceably situated beyond the Territory proper, and are blessed withthe labors of a number of good pious missionaries, who are teaching themto read the Bible, and showing the tall sons of the forest the way thatleads to heaven. Sickness is no more to be dreaded here than in Illinoisand Missouri. The roads have indeed been bad. --For a long time, no onecould venture through the Mississippi swamps, unless he was a DanielBoone. But appropriations have been made by Congress for several roads. This summer, roads from Memphis to Little Rock, and to Litchfield andBatesville, and other points, will be completed. An appropriation ofupwards of $100, 000 has been made to construct a road through theMississippi swamp. 

Again: we want settlers--we want physicians, lawyers, ministers, mechanics and farmers. We want such, however, and _only such_ as willmake good neighbors. If any who think of coming to live with us, aregamblers, drunkards, Sabbath-breakers, profane swearers, or the like, wehope that when they leave their _old_ country, they will leave their_old_ habits. "

We have not seen the Constitution of this State, now pending beforeCongress for admission into the Union, but understand that its essentialprinciples are the same as that of the other Western States. 

WISCONSIN TERRITORY. 

Under this name is now comprehended an extensive district of country, lying on both sides of the Mississippi river, above Illinois andMissouri, and extending indefinitely north. That portion lying betwixtthe northern boundary of Illinois and the Wisconsin river, and from lakeMichigan to the Mississippi, has the Indian title extinguished, and, inpart, has been surveyed and brought into market. There is much excellentland in this part of the Territory, and it is well watered withperennial streams and springs. Offices are opened for the sale of publiclands, at Mineral Point and Green Bay, and a large amount has been sold, and some at a high price. The country immediately bordering on lakeMichigan, is well timbered, with various trees. Here are red, white, black and burr oaks, beech, ash, linden, poplar, walnut, hickory, sugarand white maple, elm, birch, hemlock, and pine, with many other kinds. The soil is not so deep and dark a mould as in the prairies of Illinois, but is fertile and easily cultivated; and sandy, especially about thetown of Green Bay. Towards the lake, and near the body of water calledSturgeon Bay, connected with Green Bay, and between that and the lake, are extensive swamps and cranberry marshes. Wild rice, tamarisk, andspruce, grow here. About Rock river and from thence to the Mississippi, there is much excellent land, but a deficiency of timber. Lead andcopper ore, and probably other minerals, abound in this part of thecountry. Along to the east and north of the Four lakes, are alternatequagmires and sand ridges, for 50 miles or more, called by the French_coureurs du bois_, "_Terre Tremblant_, " (trembling land, ) thecharacter of which is sufficiently indicated by the name. 

There are several small lakes in the district of country we are nowexamining, the largest of which is Winnebago. It is situated 30 or 40miles south of Green Bay, --is about ten miles long, and three broad, andis full of wild rice. Fox river passes through it. Kushkanong is six oreight miles in diameter, with some swamps and quagmires in its vicinity. It is on Rock river, between Catfish and Whitewater. 

The _Four lakes_ are strung along on a stream called Catfish, whichenters Rock river 25 or 30 miles above the boundary of Illinois. Theyare 6 or 8 miles long, abounding with fish, and are surrounded with anexcellent farming country. 

Green Bay settlement and village is 230 miles north of Chicago, 220north-east from Galena, 120 from Fort Winnebago, and in N. Latitude 44°44'. _Navarino_ is a town recently commenced in this vicinity, with anexcellent harbor, grows rapidly, and bids fair to become a place ofimportance. Property has risen the last year most astonishingly. 

Fort Winnebago is a military post, at the bend, and on the right bank ofFox river, opposite the portage. From thence to the Wisconsin, is a lowwet prairie, of three fourths of a mile, through which, a company hasbeen chartered to cut a canal. On this route, the first explorersreached the Mississippi in 1673. The Wisconsin river, however, withoutconsiderable improvement, is not navigable for steamboats, at ordinarystages of the water, without much trouble. It is full of bars, islands, rocks, and has a devious channel. 

The streams that rise in the eastern part of this Territory, and flowinto lake Michigan, north of the boundary of Illinois, are in order asfollows: Pipe creek, a small stream, but a few miles from theboundary, --Root river next, --then Milwaukee, 90 miles from Chicago. Itrises in the swampy country, south of Winnebago lake, runs asouth-easterly course, and, after receiving the Menomone, formsMilwaukee bay. Here is a town site, on both sides of the river, with apopulation of six or eight hundred, which promises to become a place ofbusiness. The soil up the Milwaukee is good, from 6 to 32 inches indepth, a black loam and sand. 

Passing northward down the lake is Oak creek, 9 miles belowMilwaukee, --thence 21 miles is Sauk creek, a small stream. Seventy milesfrom Milwaukee is Shab-wi-wi-a-gun. Here is found white pine, maple, beech, birch and spruce, but very little oak: the surface level andsandy. Pigeon river is 15 or 20 miles further on, with excellent land onits borders;--timber, --maple, ash, beech, linden, elm, &c. Fifteen milesfurther down, is Manatawok. Here commences the hemlock, withconsiderable pine. This stream is about 40 or 50 miles from Green Baysettlement. Twin rivers are below Manatawok, with sandy soil, and goodtimber of pine and other varieties. From Milwaukee to Green Bay, by asurveyed route, is 112 miles;--by the Indian trail, commonly travelled, 135 miles. North of the Wisconsin river, is Crawford county, of whichPrairie du Chien is the seat of justice. From the great bend at FortWinnebago across towards the Mississippi is a series of abrupt hills, rising several hundred feet, and covered with a dense forest of elm, linden, oak, walnut, ash, sugar maple, &c. The soil is rich, but is toohilly and broken for agricultural purposes. There is no alluvial soil, or bottoms along the streams, or grass in the forests. 

The Wisconsin river rises in an unexplored country towards lakeSuperior. The _coureurs du bois_, and _voyageurs_ represent it as acold, mountainous, dreary region, with swamps. 

West of the Mississippi, above Des Moines, and extending northward to apoint some distance above the northern boundary of Illinois, and for 50miles interior, is a valuable country, purchased of the Indians in 1832. Its streams rise in the great prairies, run an east or south-easterncourse into the Mississippi. The most noted are Flint, Skunk, Wau-be-se-pin-e-con, Upper and Lower Iowa rivers, and Turkey, Catfish, and Big and Little Ma-quo-ka-tois, or Bear creeks. The soil, in general, is excellent, and very much resembles the military tract in Illinois. The water is excellent, --plenty of lime, sand and freestone, --extensiveprairies, and a deficiency of timber a few miles interior. AboutDubuque, opposite Galena, are extensive and rich lead mines. Burlingtonis a town containing a population of 700, at the Flint hills oppositeWarren county, Illinois. Dubuque is situated on the Mississippi, on asandy bottom, above high water, and 14 miles N. W. From Galena. It hasabout 60 stores and groceries, 2 taverns, 2 churches, and about 1000inhabitants, and we have before us the prospectus for the "DUBUQUEVISITER, " a weekly newspaper. Peru is in the vicinity, and containsabout 500 inhabitants. The New Purchase, as this district of country iscalled, is divided into two counties, Dubuque, and Des Moines, andcontains a population of 8 or 10, 000. The whole Wisconsin Territory isestimated by its legislature, now in session, to contain 30, 000inhabitants. 

Hitherto, for civil purposes, this region has formed a part of MichiganTerritory, and still its legislature acts under that name; but a bill isbefore Congress to organize a territorial government under the name ofWISCONSIN, which doubtless will be effected in a few weeks. Notmany years will elapse before two new States will be formed out of thisdistrict of country, the one on the eastern, and the other on thewestern, side of the Mississippi. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS FOR THE WEST. 

Colleges;--Statistical Sketches of each Denomination;--RomanCatholics;--Field for effort, and progress made. 

In giving a sketch of literary and religious institutions in the West, the very limited space remaining to be occupied in this work, compels meto throw together a few general facts only. The author has made someprogress in collecting materials, and he designs to prepare another worksoon, in which a variety of particulars and sketches will be given ofthe early history, progress of literary and religious institutions, colleges, seminaries, churches, Bible, Sunday school, education andother kindred societies in the Western Valley, with the present aspectof each denomination of Christians. The interest taken in the affairs ofthe West, and the anxiety evinced by the community for facts andparticulars on those subjects, demand that they should be treated morein detail than the limits of this Guide will allow. 

I. COLLEGES. 

OHIO. --_Ohio University_, at Athens, was founded in 1802;--hasan endowment of 46, 030 acres of land, which yields $2, 300 annually. Alarge and elegant edifice of brick was erected in 1817. The number ofstudents about 90. _Miami University_, was founded in 1824, and is aflourishing institution at Oxford, Butler county, 37 miles fromCincinnati. It possesses the township of land in which it is situated, and from which it receives an income of about $5000. Number of studentsabout 200. Patronized by Presbyterians. The _Cincinnati College_ wasincorporated in 1819, continued to be sustained as a classical institutionfor some years, and then suspended operations. It has been revived andre-organized lately, and will probably be sustained. _Kenyon College_, atGambier, Knox county, in a central part of the State, was established in1828, through the efforts of Rev. Philander Chase, then bishop of theOhio Diocess, who obtained about $30, 000 in England to endow it. Itschief patrons were those excellent British noblemen, Lords Kenyon andGambier. It is under Episcopal jurisdiction, and has a theologicaldepartment, for the education of candidates for the ministry in theEpiscopal church. It has about 150 students. _Western Reserve College_ isat Hudson. It was founded by Presbyterians and Congregationalists in 1826, and has 82 students in all its departments. _Franklin College_ is in NewAthens, Harrison county, on the eastern side of the State, and has about 50students. The _Granville Literary and Theological Institution_ originatedunder patronage of the Baptist denomination in 1831. It is designed toembrace four departments, --preparatory, English, collegiate, andtheological. It is rapidly rising, and contains more than 100 students. _Oberlin Institute_ has been recently established in Lorain county, underthe influence of "new measure" Presbyterians, with four departments, andhas 276 students, as follows: In the theological department, 35;collegiate, 37; preparatory, 31; female, 73. The citizens of Clevelandhave recently contributed to it $15, 000, of which six persons gave $1000each. The _Willibough Collegiate Institute_ is in the lake country ofOhio, and has been gotten up within a few years past. The _MariettaCollegiate Institute_ is said to be a flourishing and respectableinstitution, having a large number of students in various departments. 

INDIANA. --_Indiana college_ is a State institution, establishedat Bloomington, and commenced operations in 1828. Present number ofstudents not known. In 1832 the number exceeded 50. 

_Hanover College_ is at South Hanover, six miles below the town ofMadison, and near the Ohio river. It is a flourishing institution, witharrangements for manual labor, and is styled "South Hanover College andIndiana Theological Seminary. " The number of students exceed 100. _Wabash College_, at Crawfordsville, has just commenced operations underauspicious circumstances. Under patronage of the Presbyterians. 

ILLINOIS. --_Illinois College_, near Jacksonville, commenced asa preparatory school in 1830, and has made rapid progress. Large fundsfor its endowment have been recently provided in the Eastern States. Thenumber of students about 80. 

_Shurtleff College of Alton, Illinois_, was commenced under the effortsof Baptists at Alton in 1832, as a preparatory institution;--charteredas a college in February, 1835, and has been recently named in honor ofa liberal patron, Dr. Benjamin Shurtleff, of Boston, Mass. , who haspresented the institution with $10, 000. It has 60 students, and itsprospects are encouraging. _McKendreean College_ has been chartered, abuilding erected, and a school commenced at Lebanon. It is connectedwith the Methodist Episcopal Church. Charters have been recently grantedfor other colleges in this State, and measures adopted to bring some ofthem into existence. The Rev. Philander Chase, whose persevering laborsbrought into existence and successful operation, Kenyon college in Ohio, and who is now bishop of Illinois, is at present in England, where, byrecent advices, he has obtained $50, 000 to invest in Illinois lands, andto establish a college for the interests of the Episcopal church. 

MISSOURI. --The Roman Catholics have two institutions of acollegiate character, established in this State, _St. Mary's College_, in Perry county, was established by Bishop Du Bourg, in 1822. It has6, 000 volumes in the library. Including the _nunnery_, and school forfemales, a seminary for the education of _priests_, a preparatory, and aprimary school, the number of teachers and students are about 300. 

_St. Louis University_ was founded in 1829, and is conducted by theFathers of the society of Jesuits. The edifice is 130 feet, by 40, of 4stories, including the basement, and is situated on elevated andpleasant ground, on the confines of the city. 

For the Protestants, the following institutions have been established. _Columbia College_, adjacent to Columbia, Boon county. The institutionopened in 1835, under encouraging circumstances. _Marion College_ is ina delightful tract of country, a prairie region, in the western part ofMichigan county, --and has between 80 and 100 students. It is connectedwith the Presbyterian interests. The project as developed by some of itsfounders, is an immense one, including English, scientific, classical, theological, medical, agricultural, and law departments, --all to besustained by manual labor, and the proceeds of extensive farms. Doubtless, by prudent and persevering efforts, a respectable college maybe brought into successful operation. A _college_ at St. Charles, hasbeen founded, principally by the liberality of George Collier, amerchant of St. Louis, and two or three other gentlemen, and aclassical and scientific school has been commenced. 

ARKANSAS. --Efforts are making to establish a college byPresbyterian agency, at Cane Hill, in this newly formed State. Two orthree collegiate institutions will soon be needed in this region. 

KENTUCKY. --_Transylvania University_, at Lexington, is theoldest collegiate institution in the West. It was commenced, by a grantof 8, 000 acres of land by the legislature of Virginia, in 1783, and wasthen called "Transylvania Seminary. " The "Kentucky Academy" was foundedin 1794, and both institutions were united and incorporated in 1798, under the present name. It has classical, medical, law, and preparatorydepartments, --and including each, from 300 to 400 students. 

_Center College_, at Danville, was founded by the Presbyterian church, in 1818, for which the synod of Kentucky pledged $20, 000. Number ofstudents about 100. _Augusta College_ was founded in 1822, by the Ohioand Kentucky conferences of the Methodist Episcopal church. It adoptedcollegiate regulations in 1828. Number of students in the collegiate, academical and primary departments, about 200. 

_Cumberland College_ was incorporated in 1824, and is established atPrinceton, in the western part of the State. It is under the patronageand jurisdiction of the Cumberland Presbyterians. A farm, including atract of 5, 000 acres of land, with workshops, furnish facilities formanual labor. It has about 80 students. 

_St. Joseph's College_ is a Roman Catholic institution, at Bardstown, with college buildings sufficient to accommodate 200 students, andvalued at $60, 000. It commenced with 4 students in 1820. In 1833 therewere in the collegiate and preparatory departments, 120 students. TheSt. Thomas and St. Mary Seminaries are also under the charge of RomanCatholic priests, the one in Nelson county, four miles from Bardstown, and the other in Washington county. 

A college was founded by the Baptists at Georgetown in 1830, but fromuntoward circumstances, is probably relinquished by the denomination. 

TENNESSEE. --The _University of Nashville_ is a prominentinstitution. The laboratory is one of the finest in the United States, and the mineralogical cabinet, not exceeded, and this department, aswell as every other in the college, is superintended with much talent. The number of students is about 100. _Greenville_, _Knoxville_ and_Washington_ colleges are in East Tennessee. _Jackson College_ is aboutto be removed from its present site, and located at Columbia. $25, 000have been subscribed for the purpose. A Presbyterian TheologicalSeminary is at Maryville. 

MISSISSIPPI. --_Jefferson College_ is at Washington, six milesfrom Natchez. It has not flourished as a college, and is now said to beconducted somewhat on the principle of a military academy. _OaklandCollege_ has been recently founded by Presbyterians, and bids fair toexert a beneficial influence upon religion and morals, much needed inthat State. The Baptist denomination are taking measures to establish acollegiate institution in that State. 

LOUISIANA. --Has a college at Jackson, in the eastern part ofthe State, The Roman Catholics have a college at New Orleans. 

There is a respectable collegiate institution, under the fostering careof the Methodist Episcopal Church, at Lagrange, in the north-westernpart of ALABAMA. 

Academies have been established in various parts of the West, for bothsexes, and there are female seminaries of character and standing atPittsburg, Cincinnati, Granville, Louisville, Lexington, Nashville, andmany other places. Several more colleges, and a large number of minorinstitutions, will be needed very shortly to supply the demands foreducation in the West. The public mind is awake to the subject ofeducation, and much has already been done, though a greater work has yetto be accomplished to supply the wants of the West in literaryinstitutions. 

An annual convention is held in Cincinnati, on the first Monday inOctober, denominated the "_Western Institute and College ofProfessional Teachers_. " Its object, according to the constitution, is, "to promote by every laudable means, the diffusion of knowledge inregard to education, and especially by aiming at the elevation of thecharacter of teachers, who shall have adopted instruction as theirregular profession. " The first meeting was held in 1831, under theauspices of the "Academic Institute, " a previously existing institution, but of more limited operations. The second convention, in 1832, framed aconstitution and chose officers, since which time regular meetings havebeen held by delegates or individuals from various parts of the West, and a volume of Transactions of 300 or 400 pages published annually. 

II. THEOLOGICAL INSTITUTIONS. 

The _Western Theological Seminary_ at Alleghany town, oppositePittsburg, is under the jurisdiction of the General Assembly of thePresbyterian Church. It commenced operations in 1829. At _Canonsburg_ isa seminary belonging to the Associate church, of which Dr. Ramsey isProfessor. The Associate Reformed church have a theological school inPittsburg, under charge of the Rev. John T. Pressly D. D. The Baptistdenomination are now engaged in establishing a manual labor academy inthe vicinity of Pittsburg, for both ministerial and general education. 

The theological departments of Oberlin, Granville, and other collegiateinstitutions, have been noticed already. _Lane Seminary_, nearCincinnati, was founded in 1830, by Messrs. E. & W. A. Lane, merchants, of New Orleans, who made a very liberal offer of aid. Its location isexcellent, two and a half miles from Cincinnati, at Walnut Hills, and isunder the charge of the Rev. Dr. Beecher, and a body of professors. Number of students about 40. The _Hanover Institution_ in Indiana, hasbeen noticed already. In the theological department are three professorsand 12 students. The Baptists in this State are about establishing amanual labor seminary for ministerial and general education. 

A valuable property has been purchased, adjoining Covington, Ky. , opposite Cincinnati, and measures have been put in train to found atheological seminary by the Baptist denomination. The executivecommittee of the "_Western Baptist Education Society_, " have this objectin charge. The "_Alton Theological Seminary_, " located at Upper Alton, Illinois, is under an organization distinct from that of _ShurtleffCollege_, already noticed. This institution has 50 acres of valuableland, and a stone edifice of respectable size, occupied at present injoint concern with the college, and a valuable library of severalhundred volumes. Its organization has been but recently effected. Rev. L. Colby, is professor, with 8 students. Other institutions, havingtheological education, either in whole or in part, their object, are incontemplation. 

Two remarks, by way of explanation are here necessary. 1. Most of thecolleges and theological schools of the Western Valley have facilitiesfor manual labor, or are making that provision. In several, some of thestudents pay half, and even the whole of their expenses, by their ownefforts. Public sentiment is awake to this subject, and is gainingground. 2. In enumerating the students, the members of the preparatorydepartments are included, many of whom do not expect to pass through aregular collegiate course. The circumstances and wants of the country, from its rapid growth, seem to require the appendage of a largepreparatory department to every college. 

It may be well to observe here, that a great and increasing demandexists in all the Western States, and especially those bordering on theMississippi, for teachers of primary schools. Hundreds and thousands ofmoral, intelligent, and pious persons, male and female, would meet withencouragement and success in this department of labor. It is altogetherunnecessary for such persons to write to their friends, to makeinquiries whether there are openings, &c. If they come from the olderStates with the proper recommendations as to character andqualifications, they will not fail to meet with employment in almost anyquarter to which they may direct their course. There is not a county inMissouri, Arkansas, Illinois, or Indiana, where persons would not meetwith constant employment in teaching, and especially where teachers inSabbath schools are needed. Persons desirous of such a field, of humble, yet useful labor, should come here with the fixed purpose to mix with, and conform to the usages of the Western population, to avoidfastidiousness, and to submit to the plain, frank, social, andhospitable manners of the people. 

III. DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUMS. 

There are two institutions of this description in the West, --one atColumbus, Ohio; the other at Danville, Ky. The one in Ohio containsabout 50 pupils. 

IV. MEDICAL INSTITUTIONS. 

The medical department in Transylvania University, Kentucky, has sixprofessors, and usually about 200 students to attend the lectures. Feesfor an entire course, with matriculation and library, $110. Two medicalinstitutions of respectable standing exist in Cincinnati, --one connectedwith the Miami university, the other with Cincinnati college. 

The _Ohio Reformed Medical School_, was established at Worthington, 9miles north of Columbus, in 1830. No specified time is required forstudy, but when a student will pass examination, he is licensed topractice. 

V. LAW SCHOOLS. 

The law department of Transylvania University, is under the charge oftwo able professors, who hear recitations and deliver lectures. Theaverage number of students is about 40. 

A law school was established at Cincinnati, in 1833, with fourprofessors, --Messrs. John C. Wright, John M. Goodenow, Edward King, andTimothy Walker. The bar, the institution, and the city have recentlysustained a severe loss in the decease of Mr. King. 

VI. BENEVOLENT AND RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES. 

To enumerate and give particulars of all these, would make a volume. Wecan but barely call the attention of the reader to some of the moreprominent organizations, amongst the different Christian denominationsin this great Valley, for doing good. 

The _Foreign Missionary Society of the Valley of the Mississippi_, is aprominent auxiliary of the American Board of Commissioners for ForeignMissions. Its seat is Cincinnati, but by agencies and branches, itoperates throughout the Valley. The Report of November, 1835, statesthat _eighteen thousand six hundred and fifty eight dollars_ had beenreceived into the treasury the preceding year. An edition of 3000 copiesof the Missionary Herald is republished in Cincinnati, for circulationin the West. 

The _Western Education Society_, connected with the American EducationSociety, has also its seat of operations at Cincinnati. Auxiliariesalso exist in most of the Western States. 71 beneficiaries were underits charge at the last anniversary. 

The _American Tract Society_ has auxiliaries and agencies in most of theWestern States. The operations of the _American Bible Society_, throughits numerous auxiliaries, is felt to the remotest parts of the West. 

The _American Sunday School Union_ has recently established a centralagency in Cincinnati, and is preparing to renew, and greatly enlarge itsvery important efforts for the benefit of the rising generation in theWest. 

A series of very interesting anniversaries are held in Cincinnati, thefirst week in November, when all the great objects of Christian effortreceive a renewed impulse. 

The _American Home Missionary Society_ has more than 200 missionaries, laboring in the States, west of the mountains. In 1835, they assisted217 Presbyterian ministers in this field. 

The _Temperance Effort_ has not been neglected, and an interestingchange is going forward, in a quiet and noiseless way, in the habits ofthe people, in reference to the use of intoxicating liquors. It is to behoped that more prompt and vigorous efforts will be made to promote thiscause, but even now, there are many thousands, who abstain from the useof spiritous liquors, without any formal pledge. 

The _Methodist Episcopal Church_, in addition to their regular system ofcircuits, are extending the influence of their denomination on thefrontiers, by missionary operations, and their labors are prospered. 

The _Baptist denomination_ have made some important movements in theWestern Valley within the last three years. Their Home Mission Societyhas nearly 100 missionaries in the West. In November, 1833, the"_General Convention of Western Baptists_, " was organized by more than100 ministers and brethren, assembled from various parts of the West. Itis not an ecclesiastical body, claiming jurisdiction either overchurches or ministers, nor is it strictly a missionary body. Itsbusiness, according to the constitution, is "to promote by all lawfulmeans, the following objects, to wit:--Missions both foreign anddomestic;--ministerial education, for such as may have first beenlicensed by the churches; Sunday schools, including Bible classes;religious periodicals; tract and temperance societies, as well as allothers warranted by Christ in the gospel. "

At its second session, in 1834, the "_Western Baptist EducationSociety_" was formed. Its object is "the education of those who giveevidence to the churches of which they are members, that God designsthem for the ministry. " The executive committee are charged temporarily, with establishing the Central Theological Seminary, already mentioned, at Covington, Ky. 

Many other interesting associations for humane, philanthropic, andreligious purposes exist in the Valley, which are necessarily omitted. 

VII. THE PERIODICAL PRESS. 

The number of different periodicals published in the Valley of theMississippi, must exceed 400, of which 12 or 15 are daily papers. Thereare 25 weekly periodicals in Mississippi, 116 in Ohio, 38 in Indiana, 19in Illinois, 17 in Missouri, 3 and probably more, in Arkansas, 2 atleast in Wisconsin Territory. The _Western Monthly Magazine_, edited byJames Hall, Esq. , and published at Cincinnati is well known. The_Western Journal of the Medical and Physical Sciences_, edited by DanielDrake, M. D. , Professor of Theory and Practice of Medicine in theCincinnati College, is published quarterly, in Cincinnati. There are anumber of religious weekly, semi-monthly, and monthly periodicals, devoted to the interests of the principal denominations through theValley. There are known to be at least one in Western Virginia, 2 inWestern Pennsylvania, 7 in Ohio, 4 in Kentucky, 4 in Tennessee, 2 inIllinois, 2 in Missouri, and one in New Orleans. Supposing the averagenumber of copies of Western periodicals equalled 750, this, estimatingthe different periodicals at 400, would give 300, 000. We see no markedand essential difference in the talent, with which the editorial pressis conducted, betwixt the Eastern and Western States. The limits ofthis work will not allow me to add further evidence that our Westernpopulation is not all "illiterate, " and that "not more than one personin ten can read, " than the following epitome of the issues, of one ofthe publishing houses in Cincinnati, as exhibited in the CincinnatiJournal:

"_Western Enterprise. _--The enterprise of the West is not generallyappreciated. As a specimen, we have procured from Messrs. Corey &Webster the following LIST OF BOOKS published by them withinthe last three years. These books, with the exception of the Life ofBlack-Hawk, are of sterling value. 

The Western Primer, 60, 000; Webster's Spelling Book, 600, 000; thePrimary Reader, 7, 500; the Elementary Reader, 37, 000; Western Reader, 16, 000; Webster's History of the United States, 4000; Miss Beecher'sGeography, 15, 000; Pocket Testament, 6, 500; Watts' and Select Hymns, 8000; Dr. Beecher's Lectures on Scepticism, three editions, 1000 each;Prof. Stowe's Introduction to the Study of the Bible, 1500; theChristian Lyre, 2000; Mitchell's Chemistry, 1000; Eberle on the Diseasesof Children, 2000; Ditto Notes of Practice, 1500; Young Lady's Assistantin Drawing, 1000;, Munsell's Map, 3, 500; Chase's Statutes of Ohio, threevolumes, 1000; Hammond's Reports, 6th vol. 500; total, _seven hundredand seventy eight thousand two hundred and fifty!!!_ Probably some ofthe many other publishers in the city have got out nearly or quite asmany books. Truly, we are a book-making and book-reading nation. "

VIII. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. 

In exhibiting the following statistics, entire correctness is notattempted. In some of the States, the latest reports have been had, --inothers, the author has taken data of two or three years date. Of thenumbers of some of the numerous sects existing, the opinions ofindividuals have been the chief data he could obtain. 

1. _Baptists. _

 ----------------------+-----------+------------+--------------- | Churches. | Ministers. | Communicants. ----------------------+-----------+------------+--------------- Western Pennsylvania, | 50 | 30 | 2, 569 Western Virginia, | 89 | 48 | 3, 306 Ohio, | 332 | 175 | 13, 926 Michigan, | 60 | 30 | 1, 700 Indiana, | 320 | 175 | 15, 000 Illinois, | 240 | 163 | 6, 741 Missouri, | 180 | 115 | 6, 990 Arkansas, | 25 | 18 | 700 Louisiana, | 20 | 12 | 1, 000 Mississippi, | 100 | 46 | 4, 000 North Alabama, | 125 | 53 | 5, 700 Tennessee, | 348 | 292 | 22, 868 Kentucky, | 558 | 296 | 38, 817

Total, 2447 churches, 1353 ministers, and 123, 317 communicants. 

_Periodicals. _--The _Cross and Journal_, weekly, and _Baptist Advocate_, monthly, at Cincinnati;--the _Baptist Banner_, weekly, at Shelbyville, Ky. ;--the _Baptist_, a large monthly quarto, at Nashville, Ten. ;--the_Pioneer_, semi-monthly, at Rock Spring, but shortly to be enlarged, removed to Upper Alton, and published weekly;--and the _Witness_, asmall quarto, published weekly at Pittsburg. 

2. _Methodists_, (_Episcopal. _) This denomination is divided intoConferences, which are not arranged exactly with the boundaries of theStates. A large book and printing-office is established at Cincinnati, where all the society's publications are kept for sale. Anotherdepository is kept at Nashville. 

 -----------------------+---------+--------+--------+--------+------------ |Circuit |White |Colored. |Indians. |Total number Conferences. |Preachers|members. | | |of members. |&c. | | | | -----------------------+---------+--------+--------+--------+------------ Mississippi, | 55 | 6, 358 | 2, 622 | 727 | 9, 707 Alabama, (one District, | | | | | in the Valley, ) | 16 | 3, 051 | 492 | | 3, 543 Pittsburg, | 156 | 40, 155 | 296 | | 40, 451 Ohio, | 204 | 62, 686 | 544 | 217 | 63, 447 Missouri, (including | | | | | Arkansas, ) | 57 | 7, 948 | 1, 061 | 889 | 9, 898 Kentucky, | 100 | 25, 777 | 5, 592 | | 31, 369 Illinois, | 61 | 15, 038 | 59 | | 15, 097 Indiana, | 70 | 24, 984 | 229 | | 25, 213 Holston, | 62 | 21, 559 | 2, 478 | | 24, 031 Tennessee, | 120 | 29, 794 | 5, 043 | 508 | 35, 345 +---------+--------+--------+--------+------------ Total, | 901 |237, 350 | 18, 416 | 2, 341 | 258, 101

Allowing two _local_ to one _circuit_ preacher, which is rather underthan over the proportion, would make 1802, which, added to the number ofthose whose names are on the Minutes of the Conferences, would make 2703Methodist Episcopal ministers of the gospel in the Valley of theMississippi. The Pittsburg Conference Journal, Western ChristianAdvocate, and Western Methodist, are their periodicals. 

3. _Methodist Protestants. _--There are two conferences of thisdenomination in the West, --the Pittsburg, and Ohio conferences, andtheir circuits, preaching stations and members extend through the Statesnorth of the Ohio river, with a few stations and churches south. 

_Pittsburg Conference_ has 28 circuits, and 85 local preachers andlicentiates, 25 circuits, 4 stations, and 2 mission circuits, with 6, 902members in society. 

_Ohio Conference_, has 28 circuit, 90 local preachers, 22 circuits, 3stations, 3 missionary circuits, and 3667 members. The MethodistCorrespondent, a neat semi-monthly quarto periodical, published atZanesville, Ohio, is devoted to their interests. 

4. _Presbyterians. _--The following table (with the exception ofIllinois) is constructed from the returns to the General Assembly in1834, --the Minutes of 1835, we understand, have not been printed. 

 ------------------+-----------+------------+--------------- States and parts. | Churches. | Ministers. | Communicants. ------------------+-----------+------------+--------------- W. Pennsylvania | | | and W. Va. | 212 | 135 | 22, 687 Michigan, | 32 | 20 | 1, 397 Ohio, | 400 | 255 | 27, 821 Indiana, | 99 | 55 | 4, 339 Illinois, | 71 | 50 | 2, 000 Missouri, | 33 | 29 | 1, 549 Arkansas, | 12 | 9 | 390 Kentucky, | 120 | 83 | 8, 378 Tennessee, | 121 | 90 | 9, 926 North Alabama, | 15 | 12 | 725 Mississippi, | 33 | 24 | 761

Total, 56 Presbyteries, 1, 148 churches, 753 ministers, and 79, 973communicants. 

_Periodicals. _--The _Cincinnati Journal and Western Luminary_, publishedat Cincinnati;--_Christian Herald_, at Pittsburg;--_Ohio Observer_, atHudson, Ohio;--_Western Presbyterian Herald_, at Louisville, Ky. ;--_NewOrleans Observer_, at New Orleans;--and _St. Louis Observer_, at St. Louis, Mo. , --all weekly;--and the _Missionary Herald_, republished atCincinnati, monthly. 

5. _Cumberland Presbyterians. _--This sect originated from thePresbyterian church in 1804, in Kentucky, but did not increase much till1810, or 12. They are spread through most of the Western States, andhave 34 Presbyteries, 7 Synods, and one General Assembly. The Minutes oftheir General Assembly, now before me, are not sufficiently definite togive the number of congregations. These probably exceed 300. Anintelligent member of that denomination states the number of ordainedpreachers to be 300, licentiates, 100, candidates for the ministry, 150, and communicants, 50, 000. 

_Periodicals. _--The _Cumberland Presbyterian_ is a weekly paper, published at Nashville, Tenn. Another has been recently started atPittsburg. 

6. _Congregationalists. _--In Ohio, especially in the northern part, area number of Congregational churches and some ministers, as there are inIndiana, Michigan, and Illinois. There are 2 or 3 ministers, 12 or 15congregations, and about 500 communicants in Illinois, who are organizedinto an association in Illinois. 

7. _Protestant Episcopal Church. _--This denomination has 7 Diocesses inthe Western or south-western States, exclusive of Western Pennsylvania, and Western Virginia, which belong to the Diocesses of those States. Theyare, Ohio, --Michigan, --Illinois, --Kentucky, --Tennessee, --Mississippi, andIndiana, and Missouri. There are about 75 or 80 ministers, and twice asmany churches in the West. Provision has been made in part, for theendowment of the theological seminary at Gambier, O. , in England, andBishop McIlvaine has obtained about $12, 600, to be appropriated in theerection of a gothic edifice to be called "Bexley Hall, " with threestories, and accommodations for fifty students. A weekly periodical isissued at the same place to support the interests of the denomination. 

8. _German Lutherans. _--We have no data to give the statistics of thisdenomination. There is a Synod in Ohio, another in Western Pennsylvania, and perhaps others. There are probably 50 or 60 ministers in the West, and 150 congregations. 

9. _German Reformed Church. _--There are 80 congregations in Ohio, 20 inIndiana, and probably 50 others in the West, with 40 or 50 ministers. 

10. The _Tunkers_, or _Dunkards_, have 40 or 50 churches, and about halfas many ministers in the Western States. 

11. The _Shakers_ have villages in several places in Ohio, and Kentucky, but are losing ground. 

12. The _Mormons_ have a large community at Kirkland, Ohio, where, underthe direction of their prophet, Joseph Smith, they are building a vasttemple. They have probably 200 preachers, and as many congregations inthe West, and still make proselytes. 

13. _Christian Sect_, or _Newlights_, have become to a considerableextent amalgamated with the "_Reformers_, " or "_Campbellites_. " I havenot data on which to construct a tabular view of this sect, --but fromgeneral information, estimate the number of their "bishops, " and"proclaimers, " at 300, and their communicants at 10, 000 or 12, 000. Theyhave three or four monthly periodicals. 

Alexander Campbell, who may be justly considered the leader of thissect, (though they disclaim the term _sect_, ) is a learned, talented, and voluminous writer. He conducts their leading periodical, the_Millennial Harbinger_. 

14. The "_United Brethren in Christ_, " are a pious, moral and exemplarysect, chiefly in Ohio, but scattered somewhat in other Western States. They are mostly of German descent, and in their doctrinal principles andusages, very much resemble the Methodists. They have about 300 ministersin the West, and publish the _Religious Telescope_, a large weeklypaper, of evangelical principles, and well conducted. It is printed atCircleville, Ohio. 

15. _Reformed Presbyterians_, or _Covenanters_, have 20 or 30 churches, and as many ministers, but are much dispersed through the NorthernValley. 

16. The _Associate Church_, or _Seceders_, are more numerous than theCovenanters. 

17. The _Associate Reformed Church_. The Western Synod of this bodystill exists as a separate denomination. Their theological school, atPittsburg, has already been noticed. I know not their numbers, butsuppose they exceed considerably the _Associate Church_. 

18. The _Friends_ or _Quakers_, have a number of societies in WesternPennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, &c. 

19. The _Unitarians_ have societies and ministers at Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis, and probably in other places. 

There are many other sects and fragments in the West. The Valley of theMississippi, like all new countries, is a wide and fertile field for thepropagation of error, as it is for the display of truth. 

IX. ROMAN CATHOLICS. 

The number of Papal Diocesses in the Valley, including the one atMobile, is _seven_, of each of which a very brief sketch will be given, commencing with, 1. _Detroit_, including Michigan and the North-Western Territory, --1bishop, with sub-officers, 18 priests, and as many chapels. At Detroitand vicinity, for 2 or 3 miles, including the French, Irish andGermans, Roman Catholic families make up one third of the population;probably 3, 500, of all ages. At Ann Arbor, and in the towns of Webster, Scio, Northfield, Lima and Dexter are many. At and near Bert rand on theSt. Joseph's river, adjoining Indiana, they have a school establishedand an Indian mission. Including the fur traders, and Indians, they maybe estimated at 10, 000 in this Diocess. [12]

2. _Cincinnati. _--A large cathedral has been built in this place, and 15or 520 chapels in the Diocess. Ten years ago, the late bishop Fenwickcould not count up 500. The emigration of foreigners, and the laborerson the Ohio canals, and not a little success in proselyting, account forthe increase. There are 25 congregations, and 18 priests. A literaryinstitution, called the _Athenæum_, is established at Cincinnati, wherethe students are required to attend the forms of worship, and theSuperior inspects all their letters. St. Peter's Orphan Asylum is undercharge of 4 "Sisters of Charity. " The number of Catholics in Cincinnatiis variously estimated, the medium of which is 6000, and as many moredispersed through the State. 

3. _Bardstown. _--This includes the State of Kentucky, and has a bishop, with the usual subordinates, 27 congregations, and 33 priests, 11 ofwhom reside at Bardstown. A convent of 6 Jesuit priests at Lebanon;another of 5 Dominicans, called St. Rose, in Washington county; thecollege at Bardstown, already noticed, and St. Mary's Seminary inWashington county, for the education of priests. Of _female_institutions, there are the _Female Academy of Nazareth_ at Bardstown, conducted by the "Sisters of Charity, " and superintended by the bishopand professors of St. Joseph's college, --150 pupils; the female academyof Loretto, Washington county, with accommodation for 100 boarders, anddirected by the "_Sisters of Mary at the foot of the cross_. " This orderhave six other places for country schools, and are said to be 135 innumber. The _Convent of Holy Mary_, and the _Monastery of St. Magdalene_, at St. Rose, Washington county, by Dominican nuns, 15 innumber, and in 1831, 30 pupils. The Catholics have a female academy atLexington with 100 pupils. 

I have no data to show the Roman Catholic population of this State, butit is by no means proportionate to the formidable machinery hereexhibited. All this array of colleges, seminaries, monasteries, conventsand nunneries is for the work of proselyting, and if they are notsuccessful, it only shows that the current of popular sentiment setsstrongly in another direction. 

4. _Vincennes. _--This is a new Diocess, recently carved out of Indianaand Illinois by the authority of an old gentleman, who lives in thecity of Rome! It includes a dozen chapels, 4 or 5 priests, the St. Claire convent at Vincennes, with several other appendages. The RomanCatholic population of this State is not numerous, probably notexceeding 3000. Illinois has about 5000, a part of which is under thejurisdiction of St. Louis Diocess. In Illinois there are 10 churches, and 6 priests, a part of which are included in the Diocess of Indiana. Aconvent of nuns of the "_Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary_, " atKaskaskia, who conduct a female school, with a few boarders and about 30or 40 day scholars. 

5. _St. Louis. _--This Diocess includes 18 congregations and 19 priests, with the following appendages:

1. _St. Louis University_, already noticed, with 6 priests forinstructors, and 150 students, of which, about 80 are boarders. Therules require their attendance on morning and evening prayers, thecatechism, and divine service on Sundays and holidays. 2. St. Mary'sCollege, also noticed in our description of colleges. 3. Noviciate for_Jesuits under St. Stanislaus_, in St. Louis county. Of femaleinstitutions there are, --1. Convent of the "_Ladies of the SacredHeart_, " at St. Louis; 2. Another of the same description, and theirnoviciate, at Florrissant;--3. Another of the same order at St. Charles;--4. A female academy at Carondalet, six miles below St. Louis, by the "_Sisters of Charity_;"--5. A convent and academy of the"_Sisters of Loretto_, " at New Madrid;--6. A convent and female academyat Frederickstown, under supervision of a priest;--7. A convent andfemale academy of the "_Sisters of Loretto_, " in Perry county. The RomanCatholic population in Missouri does not exceed 15, 000. Their pupils, ofboth sexes, may be estimated at 700. To the above may be added thehospital, and the asylum for boys, in St. Louis, under the management ofthe Sisters of Charity. 

Roman Catholic teachers, usually foreigners, disperse themselves throughthe country, and engage in teaching primary schools; availing themselvesof intercourse with the families of their employers to instruct them inthe dogmas of their religion. The greatest success that has attended theefforts of the priests in converting others, has been during theprevalence of the cholera, and especially after collapse andinsensibility had seized the person! We know of more than 60 RomanCatholics who have been converted to the faith of Christ and joinedChristian churches within 3 or 4 years past, in this State. 

6. _New Orleans. _--The Roman Catholics in Louisiana are numerous, probably including one third of the population. Relatively, Protestantsare increasing, as a large proportion of the emigration from the otherStates, who care any thing about religion, are Protestants. There are26 congregations, and 27 priests with several convents, femaleseminaries, asylums, &c. 

7. _Mobile. _--A splendid cathedral has been commenced here. This Diocessextends into Florida. 

FOOTNOTES:

[12] The reader will note that our estimates of Roman Catholics includethe whole family of every age. Whereas, our statistics of Protestantdenominations included only communicants. 

CHAPTER XV. 

Suggestions to Emigrants--Canal, Steamboat and Stage Routes--Other Modesof Travel--Expenses--Roads, Distances, &c. &c. 

In the concluding chapter to this GUIDE, it is proposed to givesuch information as is always desirable to emigrants upon removing, ortravelling for any purpose, to the West. 

1. Persons in moderate circumstances, or who would save time andexpense, need not make a visit to the West, to ascertain particularsprevious to removal. A few general facts, easily collected from ahundred sources, will enable persons to decide the great questionwhether they will emigrate to the Valley. By the same means, emigrantsmay determine to what State, and to what part of that State, theircourse shall be directed. There are many things that a person of plain, common sense will take for granted without inquiry, --such as facilitiesfor obtaining all the necessaries of life; the readiness with whichproperty of any description may be obtained for a fair value, andespecially farms and wild land; that they can live where hundreds ofthousands of others of similar habits and feelings live; and above all, they should take it for granted, that there are difficulties to beencountered in every country, and in all business, --that thesedifficulties can be surmounted with reasonable effort, patience andperseverance, and that in every country, people sicken and die. 

2. Having decided to what State and part of the State an emigrant willremove, let him then conclude to take as little furniture and otherluggage as he can do with, especially if he comes by public conveyances. Those who reside within convenient distance of a sea port, would find itboth safe and economical to ship by New Orleans, in boxes, such articlesas are not wanted on the road, especially if they steer for thenavigable waters of the Mississippi. Bed and other clothing, books, &c. , packed in boxes, like merchants' goods, will go much safer and cheaperby New Orleans, than by any of the inland routes. I have received morethan one hundred packages and boxes, from eastern ports, by that route, within 20 years, and never lost one. Boxes should be marked to the owneror his agent at the river port where destined, and to the charge of someforwarding house in New Orleans. The freight and charges may be paidwhen the boxes are received. 

3. If a person designs to remove to the north part of Ohio, and Indiana, to Chicago and vicinity, or to Michigan, or Greenbay, his course wouldbe by the New York canal, and the lakes. The following table, showingthe time of the opening of the canal at Albany and Buffalo, and theopening of the lake, from 1827 to 1835, is from a report of a committeeat Buffalo to the common council of that city. It will be of use tothose who wish to take the northern route in the spring. 

 ------+-----------------+-----------------+----------------- | Canal opened at | Canal opened at | Lake Erie opened Year. | Buffalo. | Albany. | at Buffalo. ------+-----------------+-----------------+----------------- 1827 | April 21 | April 21 | April 21 1828 | " 1 | " 1 | " 1 1829 | " 25 | " 29 | May 10 1830 | " 15 | " 20 | April 6 1831 | " 16 | " 16 | May 8 1832 | " 18 | " 25 | April 27 1833 | " 22 | " 22 | " 23 1834 | " 16 | " 17 | " 6 1835 | " 15 | " 15 | May 8

The same route will carry emigrants to Cleveland and by the Ohio canalto Columbus, or to the Ohio river at Portsmouth, from whence bysteamboat, direct communications will offer to any river port in theWestern States. From Buffalo, steamboats run constantly, (when the lakeis open, ) to Detroit, stopping at Erie, Ashtabula, Cleveland, Sanduskyand many other ports from whence stages run to every prominent town. Transportation wagons are employed in forwarding goods. 

SCHEDULE FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT BY WATER. 

 Miles. Dunkirk, N. Y. , 39 Portland, " 18-57 Erie, Pa. , 35-92 Ashtabula, Ohio, 39-131 Fairport, " 32-163 Cleveland, Ohio, 30-193 Sandusky, " 54-247 Amherstburg, N. C. 52-299 Detroit, Mich. , 18-317

_From thence to Chicago, Illinois. _

 Miles. St. Clair River, Michigan, 40 Palmer, 17-57 Fort Gratiot, 14-71 White Rock, 40-111 Thunder Island, 70-181 Middle Island, 25-206 Presque Isle, 65-271 Mackinaw, 58-329 Isle Brule, 75-404 Fort Howard, W. Territory, 100-504 Milwaukee, W. T. 310-814 Chicago, Ill. , 90-904

_From Cleveland to Portsmouth, via. Ohio canal. _

 Miles. Cuyahoga Aqueduct, 22 Old Portage, 12-34 Akron, 4-38 New Portage, 5-43 Clinton, 11-54 Massillon, 11-65 Bethlehem, 6-71 Bolivar, 8-79 Zoar, 3-82 Dover, 7-89 New Philadelphia, 4-93 New-Comers' Town, 22-115 Coshocton, 17-132 Irville, 26-158 Newark, 13-171 Hebron, 10-181 Licking Summit, 5-186 Lancaster Canaan, 11-197 Columbus, side cut, 18-215 Bloomfield, 8-223 Circleville, 9-232 Chillicothe, 23-255 Piketon, 25-280 Lucasville, 14-294 Portsmouth, (Ohio river, ) 13-307

The most expeditious, pleasant and direct route for travellers to thesouthern parts of Ohio and Indiana; to the Illinois river, as far northas Peoria; to the Upper Mississippi, as Quincy, Rock Island, Galena andPrairie du Chien; to Missouri; and to Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Natches and New Orleans is one of the southern routes. There are, 1st, from Philadelphia to Pittsburg by rail-roads and the Pennsylvania canal;2nd, by Baltimore, --the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, --and stages toWheeling; or, 3dly, for people living to the south of Washington, bystage, via Charlottesville, Va. , Staunton, the hot, warm, and whitesulphur springs, Lewisburg, Charlestown, to Guyandotte, from whence aregular line of steamboats run 3 times a week to Cincinnati. Intermediate routes from Washington city to Wheeling; or to Harper'sferry, to Fredericksburg, and intersect the route through Virginia atCharlottesville. 

 _From Philadelphia to Pittsburg, via rail-road and canal. _

 Miles. Columbia on the Susquehanna river by rail-road, daily, 81 By canal packets to Bainbridge, 11-92 Middletown, 17-109 Harrisburg, 10-119 Juniata river, 15-134 Millerstown, 17-151 Mifflin, 17-168 Lewistown, 13-171 Waynesburg, 14-195 Hamiltonville, 11-206 Huntingdon, 7-213 Petersburg, 8-221 Alexandria, 23-244 Frankstown and Hollidaysburgh, 3-247 From thence by rail-road across the mountain to Johnstown is 38-285 By canal to Blairsville, 35-320 Saltzburg, 18-338 Warren, 12-350 Alleghany river, 16-366 PITTSBURG, 28-394

The _Pioneer_ line on this route is exclusively for passengers, andprofesses to reach Pittsburg in _four_ days--but is sometimes behindseveral hours. Fare through, $10. Passengers pay for meals. 

_Leech's line_, called "_the Western Transportation line_, " takes bothfreight and passengers. The packet boats advertise to go through toPittsburg in _five_ days for $7. 

Midship and steerage passengers in the transportation line in six and ahalf days; merchandize delivered in 8 days. Generally, however, there issome delay. Emigrants must not expect to carry more than a small trunkor two on the packet lines. Those who take goods or furniture, andexpect to keep with it, had better take the transportation lines withmore delay. The price of meals on the boats is about 37-½ cents. 

On all the _steamboats_ on the Western waters, no additional charge ismade to cabin passengers for meals, --and the tables are usuallyprofusely supplied. Strict order is observed, and the waiters andofficers are attentive. 

 _Steamboat route from Pittsburg to the mouth of Ohio. _

 Miles. Middletown, Pa. 11 Economy, " 8-19 Beaver, " 10-29 Georgetown, " 13-42 Steubenville, Ohio, 27-69 Wellsburgh, Va. , 7-76 Warren, Ohio, 6-82 _Wheeling_, Va. , 10-92 Elizabethtown, " 11-103 Sistersville, " 34-137 Newport, Ohio, 27-164 _Marietta_, Ohio 14-178 Parkersburgh, Va. , 11-189 Belpre, and Blennerhassett's Isl'd, O. , 4-193 Troy, Ohio, 10-203 Belleville, Va. , 7-210 Letart's Rapids, Va. , 37-247 Point Pleasant, " 27-274 Gallipolis, Ohio, 4-278 _Guyandot_, Va. , 27-305 Burlington, Ohio, 10-315 Greensburg, Ky. , 19-334 Concord, Ohio, 12-346 _Portsmouth_, (Ohio, canal, ) 7-353 Vanceburg, Ky. , 20-373 Manchester, Ohio, 16-389 _Maysville_, Ky. , 11-400 Charleston, " 4-404 Ripley, Ohio, 6-410 Augusta, Ky. , 8-418 Neville, Ohio, 7-425 Moscow, " 7-432 Point Pleasant, Ohio 4-436 New Richmond, " 7-443 Columbia, " 15-458 Fulton, " 6-464 CINCINNATI, Ohio 2-466 North Bend, " 15-481 Lawrenceburgh, Ia. , and mouth of the Miami, 8-489 Aurora, Ia. , 2-491 Petersburg, Ky. , 2-493 Bellevue, " 8-501 Rising Sun, Ia. , 2-503 Fredericksburgh, Ky. , 18-521 Vevay, Ia. , and Ghent, Ky. , 11-532 Port William, Ky. , 8-540 Madison, In. , 15-555 New London, In. , 12-567 Bethlehem, " 8-575 Westport, Ky. , 7-582 Transylvania, Ky. , 15-597 LOUISVILLE, Ky. , 12-609 Shippingsport thro' the canal, 2-½-611-½ New Albany, In. , 1-½-613 Salt River, Ky. , 23-636 Northampton, Ia. , 18-654 Leavenworth, " 17-671 Fredonia, " 2-673 Rome, In. , 32-705 Troy, " 25-730 Rockport, In. , 16-746 Owenburgh, Ky. , 12-758 _Evansville_, Ia. , 36-794 Henderson, Ky. , 12-806 Mount Vernon, Ia. , 28-834 Carthage, Ky. , 12-846 Wabash River, Ky. , 7-853 Shawneetown, Ill. , 11-864 Mouth of Saline, Ill. , 12-876 Cave in Rock, " 10-886 Golconda, " 19-905 _Smithland_, mouth of the Cumberland River, Ky. , 10-915 _Paducah_, mouth of the Tennessee River, Ky. , 13-928 Caledonia, Ill. , 31-959 Trinity, mouth of Cash River, Ill. , 10-969 MOUTH OF THE OHIO RIVER, 6-975

Persons who wish to visit Indianopolis will stop at Madison, Ia. , andtake the stage conveyance. From Louisville, via Vincennes, to St. Louisby stage, every alternate day, 273 miles, through in three days andhalf. Fare $17. Stages run from Vincennes to Terre Haute and other townsup the Wabash river. At _Evansville_, Ia. , stage lines are connectedwith Vincennes and Terre Haute; and at _Shawneetown_ twice a week toCarlyle, Ill. , where it intersects the line from Louisville to St. Louis. From Louisville to Nashville by steamboats, passengers land atSmithland at the mouth of Cumberland river, unless they embark directfor Nashville. 

In the _winter_ both stage and steamboat lines are uncertain andirregular. Ice in the rivers frequently obstructs navigation, and highwaters and bad roads sometimes prevent stages from running regularly. 

Farmers who remove to the West from the Northern and Middle States, willfind it advantageous in many instances to remove with their own teamsand wagons. These they will need on their arrival. Autumn, or fromSeptember till November, is the favorable season for this mode ofemigration. The roads are then in good order, the weather usuallyfavorable, and feed plenty. People of all classes from the States southof the Ohio river, remove with large wagons, carry and cook their ownprovisions, purchase their feed by the bushel, and invariably _encampout at night_. 

Individuals who wish to travel through the interior of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, &c. , will find that the most convenient, sure, economical and independent mode is on horseback. Their expenseswill be from 75 cents to $1. 50 per day, and they can always consulttheir own convenience and pleasure as to time and place. 

Stage fare is usually 6 cents per mile in the West. Meals at stagehouses, 37-½ cents. 

_Steamboat fare, including meals. _

 From Pittsburg to Cincinnati, $10 " Cincinnati to Louisville, 4 " Louisville to St. Louis, 12

And frequently the same from Cincinnati to St. Louis;--varying a little, however. 

A _deck_ passage, as it is called, may be rated as follows:

 From Pittsburg to Cincinnati, $3 " Cincinnati to Louisville, 1 " Louisville to St. Louis, 4

The _deck_ for such passengers is usually in the midship, forward theengine, and is protected from the weather. Passengers furnish their ownprovisions and bedding. They often take their meals at the cabin table, with the boat hands, and pay 25 cents a meal. Thousands pass up and downthe rivers as deck passengers, especially emigrating families, who havetheir bedding, provisions, and cooking utensils on board. 

The whole expense of a single person from New York to St. Louis, via. Philadelphia and Pittsburg, with cabin passage on the river, will rangebetween $40 and $45. Time from 12 to 15 days. 

Taking the transportation lines on the Pennsylvania canal, and a deckpassage on the steamboat, and the expenses will range between 20 and$25, supposing the person buys his meals at 25 cents, and eats twice aday. If he carry his own provisions, the passage, &c. , will be from 15to $18. 

The following is from an advertisement of the _Western Transportation, or Leech's Line, from Philadelphia_:

 Miles. Days. Fare to Pittsburg, 400 6-½ $6. 00 " " Cincinnati, 900 8-½ 8. 50 " " Louisville, 1050 9-½ 9. 00 " " Nashville, 1650 13-½ 13. 00 " " St. Louis, 1750 14 13. 00 The above does not include meals. 

_Packet Boats for Cabin Passengers, same line. _

 Miles. Days. Fare to Pittsburg, 400 5 $7 " " Cincinnati, 900 8 17 " " Louisville, 1050 9 19 " " Nashville, 1650 13 27 " " St. Louis, 1750 13 27

Emigrants and travellers will find it to their interest always to be alittle sceptical relative to the statements of stage, steam and canalboat agents, to make some allowance in their own calculations fordelays, difficulties and expenses, and above all, to _feel_ perfectlypatient and in good humor with themselves, the officers, company, andthe world, even if they do not move quite as rapid, and fare quite aswell as they desire. 

ERRATA. 

 Page 40, 8th line from the bottom, for _Tau-mar-wans_, read Tau-mar-waus. 41. For _Milwankee_, read Milwaukee. " For _Fonti_, read Tonti. 

GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN, PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS, AND STATIONERS, 59 Washington St. Boston. 

G. K. & L. Keep a general assortment of Books in the various departmentsof Literature, Science and Theology. --Among the many valuable workswhich they publish, are the following, for SCHOOLS:

WAYLAND'S ELEMENTS OF MORAL SCIENCE. Abridged and adapted to the Use ofSchools and Academies, by the Author, FRANCIS WAYLAND, D. D. , President of Brown University, and Professor of Moral Philosophy. 

 The publishers would respectfully request the attention of Teachers and School Committees to this valuable work; it has received the unqualified approbation of all who have examined it; and it is believed admirably calculated to exert a wholesome influence on the minds of the young. Such an influence as will be likely to lead them to the formation of correct moral principles. 

ROMAN ANTIQUITIES AND ANCIENT MYTHOLOGY. By CHARLES K. DILLAWAY, A. M. , Principal in the Boston Public Latin School. Illustrated by elegant engravings. Third edition, improved. 

 This work is rapidly going into use all over our country; it is already introduced into most of our High Schools and Academies, and many of our Colleges;--a new and beautiful edition has just been published. 

BLAKE'S NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, _New Edition_, Enlarged. Being Conversationson Philosophy, with the addition of Explanatory Notes, Questions forExamination, and a Dictionary of Philosophical Terms. With twenty-eightsteel engravings. By Rev. J. L. BLAKE, A. M. 

 Perhaps no work has contributed so much as this to excite a fondness for the study of Natural Philosophy in youthful minds. The familiar comparisons with which it abounds, awaken interest, and rivet the attention of the pupil. It is introduced, with great success into the Public Schools in Boston. 

BLAKE'S FIRST BOOK IN ASTRONOMY. 

Designed for the Use of Common Schools. Illustrated by steel plateengravings. By Rev. J. L. BLAKE, A. M. 

FIRST LESSONS IN INTELLECTUAL PHILOSOPHY; or, a Familiar Explanation ofthe Nature and Operations of the Human Mind. _Second Edition. _ Edited byRev. SILAS BLAISDALE. One volume, 12mo. 360 pages. 

YOUNG LADIES' CLASS BOOK. A Selection of Lessons for Reading, in Proseand Verse. By EBENEZER BAILEY, A. M. , Principal of the YoungLadies' High School, Boston. Thirteenth stereotype edition. 

 In order to give this work a more extended circulation;--notwithstanding its sale is now great, --the publishers have determined to REDUCE THE PRICE, in order to remove every obstacle in the way of its being introduced into _all our female schools_ throughout the country. 

PALEY'S THEOLOGY. _Eighth Edition_, illustrated by Forty Plates, andSelections from the Notes of Dr. Paxton, with additional Notes, originaland selected, for this Edition, with a Vocabulary of Scientific Terms. Edited by an eminent Physician of Boston. 

THE CLASS BOOK OF NATURAL THEOLOGY; or, the Testimony of Nature to theBeing, Perfections and Government of God. By the Rev. HENRYFERGUS; revised, enlarged, and adapted to Paxton's Illustrations;with Notes, selected and original, Biographical Notices, and aVocabulary of Scientific Terms. By CHARLES HENRY ALDEN, A. M. , Principal of the Philadelphia High School for Young Ladies. 

THE NATIONAL ARITHMETIC, combining the Analytic and Synthetic Methods, in which the Principles of Arithmetic are explained in a perspicuous andfamiliar manner; containing also, practical systems of Mensuration, Gauging, Geometry, and Book-Keeping, forming a complete MercantileArithmetic, designed for Schools and Academies in the United States. ByBENJAMIN GREENLEAF, A. M. , Preceptor of Bradford Academy. 

BALBI'S GEOGRAPHY. An Abridgment of Universal Geography, Modern andAncient, chiefly compiled from the Abrégé de Geographie of ADRIANBALBI. By T. G. BRADFORD; accompanied by a splendid Atlas, and illustrated by engravings. 

 The above work contains 520 pages 12mo. And is the most copious School Geography yet offered to the public, and it is believed to be an important improvement, especially for the use of the higher schools and seminaries. It has received the sanction of all Teachers who have examined it, and has been favorably noticed in many of our public Journals. The Atlas accompanying this work, contains thirty-six maps and charts, --and is confidently recommended as superior, in every respect, to any thing of the kind now in use. 

_Religious Works. _

THE COMPLETE WORKS OF THE REV. ANDREW FULLER, with a Memoir of his Life. By ANDREW GUNTON FULLER, in two volumes. With a correctlikeness. 

 This valuable work is now published in two large octavo volumes, on fair type and fine paper, at a very low price. The cost of former editions ($14) precluded many from possessing it. The publishers are gratified in being able to offer to the Christian public a work so replete with doctrinal arguments and _practical_ religion, at a price that every minister and student may possess it. No Christian can read Fuller, without having his impulses to action quickened; and every student ought to _study_ him, if he wishes to arm himself against every enemy. 

CAMPBELL AND FENELON ON ELOQUENCE. ComprisingCampbell's Lectures on Systematic Theology and Pulpit Eloquence, &c. Edited by Prof. RIPLEY, of Newton Theological Institution. 

MORRIS'S MEMOIRS OF FULLER. The Life and Character of the Rev. AndrewFuller Edited by Rev. RUFUS BABCOCK, Jr. , President ofWaterville College. 

FEMALE SCRIPTURE BIOGRAPHY. Including an Essay on what Christianity hasdone for Women. By F. A. COX, D. D. , LL. D. , of London. In 2vols. 

 This is a very interesting work, and should be in the hands of every female professor, and in every Church and Sabbath School Library in the land. 

REMAINS OF REV. RICHARD CECIL, M. A. To which is prefixed a View of hisCharacter. By JOSIAH PRATT, B. D. , F. A. S. 

CHURCH MEMBER'S GUIDE. By J. A. JAMES, A. M. , Birmingham, England. Edited by J. O. CHOULES, A. M. , Pastor of the FirstBaptist Church in New Bedford, Mass. 

HELP TO ZION'S TRAVELLERS. By Rev. ROBERT HALL. With a Prefaceby Dr. RYLAND. Edited by Rev. J. A. WARNE. 

THE TRAVELS OF TRUE GODLINESS. By the Rev. BENJAMIN KEACH, London. And a Memoir of his Life. By HOWARD MALCOM. A. M. 

AIDS TO DEVOTION; in three parts. Including Watts' Guide to Prayer. [Avery valuable and truly excellent work. ]

BEAUTIES OF COLLYER. Selections from Theological Lectures. By Rev. W. B. COLLYER, D. D. , F. S. A. 

BAXTER'S SAINT'S REST. By Rev. RICHARD BAXTER. Abridged byB. FAWCETT, A. M. 

BAXTER'S CALL TO THE UNCONVERTED, to which are added several valuableEssays. By RICHARD BAXTER. With an Introductory Essay. ByTHOMAS CHALMERS, D. D. 

THE CHRISTIAN CONTEMPLATED; in a Course of Lectures delivered in ArgyleChapel, Bath, England. By WILLIAM JAY. 

MEMOIRS OF HOWARD. Compiled from his Diary, his Confidential Letters, and other authentic Documents. By JAMES B. BROWN. Abridged by aGentleman of Boston, from the London quarto edition. 

THE IMITATION OF CHRIST. In Three Books. By THOMAS àKEMPIS. With an Introductory Essay, by THOMASCHALMERS, of Glasgow. 

AN EXAMINATION OF PROF. STUART ON BAPTISM. By HENRY J. RIPLEY, Professor of Biblical Literature in the Newton Theological Institution. 

MEMOIR OF REV. WM. STAUGHTON, D. D. By Rev. W. S. LYND, A. M. , of Cincinnati, Ohio. Embellished with a Likeness. 

 The thousands still living, who have listened with rapture to the messages of salvation that flowed from his lips; those gentlemen, who have been trained up by his hand for usefulness in society, and especially those whose gifts in the church he aided and cherished by his instructions, as well as the Christian and literary public, will review his life with peculiar satisfaction. 

LIFE OF PHILIP MELANCTHON, comprising an account of the most importanttransactions of the REFORMATION. By F. A. COX, D. D. LL. D. , of London. From the Second London edition, with importantalterations, by the Author, for this edition. 

MEMOIR OF MRS. ANN H. JUDSON, late Missionary to Burmah. New andenlarged edition Including a History of the American Baptist Mission inthe Burman Empire to the present time. By JAMES D. KNOWLES. Embellished with engravings. 

NEW AND IMPROVED EDITION, JUST PUBLISHED. 

MEMOIR OF GEORGE DANA BOARDMAN, late Missionary to Burmah, containingmuch intelligence relative to the Burman Mission. By Rev. ALONZOKING, of Northborough, Mass. With a Valuable Essay, by adistinguished Clergyman. 

 The rapid sale of the large edition of this work first published, --the increasing demand for it, --and the evident good which its circulation has accomplished, have induced the publishers to bestow much expense and labor upon it, in order to present the present edition in as complete and attractive a form as possible, with a view to giving it a still wider and more rapid circulation. 

 A valuable Essay of _thirty-five pages_, written at the request of the publishers has been added; and in addition to its having been handsomely stereotyped, a correct likeness of Mr. Boardman, taken on steel, from a painting in possession of the family, and a beautiful vignette representing the baptismal scene just before his death, have also been added. 

 +-----------------------------------------------------+ | Transcriber's Note: | | | | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the | | original document have been preserved. | | | | Errata mentioned on Page 374 have been | | corrected in the text. | | | | Typographical errors corrected in the text: | | | | Page vii hut changed to but | | Page x Mitchel's changed to Mitchell's | | Page 25 steril changed to sterile | | Page 31 Wos-sosh-e changed to Wos-sosh-ee | | Page 35 chesnut changed to chestnut | | Page 36 persimon changed to persimmon | | Page 36 paupau changed to pawpaw | | Page 36 pecaun changed to pecan | | Page 38 turkies changed to turkeys | | Page 44 steril changed to sterile | | Page 48 harrassed changed to harassed | | Page 61 Farenheit changed to Fahrenheit | | Page 70 Chein chanaged to Chien | | Page 75 occacasionally changed to occasionally | | Page 100 journies changed to journeys | | Page 114 Poineer chainged to Pioneer | | Page 135 Saginau changed to Saginaw | | Page 137 territoriesr changed to territories | | Page 138 Chilicothe changed to Chillicothe | | Page 138 Miueral changed to Mineral | | Page 139 Chilicothe changed to Chillicothe | | Page 156 Punchas changed to Puncahs | | Page 162 Fonti's changed to Tonti's | | Page 175 artizans changed to artisans | | Page 207 it changed to its | | Page 211 Considerble changed to Considerable | | Page 223 Bowlinggreen changed to Bowling Green | | Page 231 Missisinewa changed to Missisinawa | | Page 237 Missasinawa changed to Missisinawa | | Page 262 pecaun changed to pecan | | Page 273 pecaun changed to pecan | | Page 279 gophars changed to gophers | | Page 280 gophar changed to gopher | | Page 290 Macoupin changed to Macoupen | | Page 304 attornies changed to attorneys | | Page 337 Lorrain changed to Lorain | | Page 339 circumstanses changed to circumstances | | Page 360 accomodation changed to accommodation | | Page 367 Masillon changed to Massillon | | Page 368 Charlottsville changed to Charlottesville | | Page 368 Guiandotte changed to Guyandotte | | Page 368 Juniatta changed to Juniata | | Page 368 Holladaysburgh changed to Hollidaysburgh | | Page 377 Guaging changed to Gauging | +-----------------------------------------------------+