[Illustration: A New Zealand War Speech. (From a sketch by A. Earle. )]

A NARRATIVE

OF A

NINE MONTHS' RESIDENCE

IN

NEW ZEALAND

IN 1827

BY

AUGUSTUS EARLE

DRAUGHTSMAN TO HIS MAJESTY'S SURVEYING SHIP

"THE BEAGLE. "

Whitecombe & Tombs Limited

Christchurch, Wellington, and Dunedin, N. Z. ;

Melbourne and London

1909

INTRODUCTION. 

The author of this account of New Zealand in the year 1827 was an artistby profession. "A love of roving and adventure, " he states, tempted him, at an early age, to sea. In 1815 he procured a passage on board astoreship bound for Sicily and Malta, where he had a brother stationedwho was a captain in the navy. He visited many parts of theMediterranean, accompanying Lord Exmouth's fleet in his brother's gunboaton his Lordship's first expedition against the Barbary States. Heafterwards visited the ruins of Carthage and the remains of the ancientcity of Ptolomea, or Lepida, situated in ancient Libya. Returning toMalta, he passed through Sicily, and ascended Mount Etna. In 1818 he leftEngland for the United States, and spent nearly two years in ramblingthrough that country. Thence he proceeded to Brazil and Chile, returningto Rio de Janeiro, where he practised his art until the commencement of1824. Having received letters of introduction to Lord Amherst, who hadleft England to undertake the government of India, Mr. Earle left Rio forthe Cape of Good Hope, intending to take his passage thence to Calcutta. On the voyage to the Cape the vessel by which he was a passenger touchedat Tristan d'Acunha, and was driven off that island in a gale while Mr. Earle was ashore, leaving him stranded in that desolate land, where heremained for six months, when he was rescued by a passing ship, the"Admiral Cockburn, " bound for Van Diemen's Land, whence he visited NewSouth Wales and New Zealand, returning again to Sydney. In pursuance ofhis original resolution to visit India, he left Sydney in "The Rainbow, "touching at the Caroline Islands, Manilla, and Singapore. After spendingsome time in Madras, where he executed many original drawings, which wereafterwards copied and exhibited in a panorama, he set out for England bya French vessel, which was compelled by stress of weather to put intoMauritius, where she was condemned. Mr. Earle ultimately reached Englandin a vessel named the "Resource, " but, being still animated by the desirefor travel, he accepted the situation of draughtsman on His Majesty'sship "Beagle, " commanded by Captain Fitzroy, which in the year 1831 lefton a voyage of discovery that has been made famous by the observations ofCharles Darwin, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity ofnaturalist. 

The notes which furnished the materials for this book were made by Mr. Earle during his first visit to New Zealand, in 1827. They are valuableas setting forth the impressions formed by an educated man, who came intothe primitive community then existing at Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, without being personally connected either with the trading community, the missionaries, or the whalers. It should not be inferred from thereflections Mr. Earle casts upon the missionaries that he was himself anirreligious man, because the journal of his residence on Tristan d'Acunhashows that, while living there, he read the whole service of the Churchof England to that little community every Sunday, and his diary in manyplaces exhibits a reverence for Divine things. It may, however, be saidin extenuation of the lack of hospitality on the part of the missionariesof which he complains, that many of the early residents and Europeanvisitors to New Zealand were of an undesirable class, and that theyexercised a demoralising influence upon the Maoris. It was not easy forthe missionaries to consort, upon terms of intimacy, with theirfellow-countrymen whose relations with the Natives were such as they muststrongly condemn. Earle's narrative is interesting because it conveys arealistic description of the Maoris before their national customs andhabits had undergone any material change through association with whitesettlers. In dealing with Maori names, Mr. Earle, having at that periodno standard of orthography to guide him, followed the example of CaptainCook in spelling words phonetically. Except in the case of certainwell-known places the original spelling has been retained in the presentedition of his book. 

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

VOYAGE FROM SYDNEYWRECKS AT HOKIANGA

CHAPTER II. 

MAORI WELCOMENATIVE CHARACTERISTICSEUROPEANS AT HOKIANGACANNIBALISM

CHAPTER III. 

A MAORI VILLAGETHE TAPU ON CROPSMAORI ART

CHAPTER IV. 

HOKIANGA RIVERMR. HOBBS' MISSIONTHE TIMBER INDUSTRY

CHAPTER V. 

AN OVERLAND JOURNEY

CHAPTER VI. 

THE CHIEF PATUONE

CHAPTER VII. 

A PICTURESQUE SCENE

CHAPTER VIII. 

IN THE DENSE FOREST

CHAPTER IX. 

THE KERIKERI MISSIONINHOSPITABLE RECEPTION

CHAPTER X. 

THE BAY OF ISLANDS

CHAPTER XI. 

MASSACRE OF THE BOYD

CHAPTER XII. 

KORORAREKAA MIXED COMMUNITYSHULITEA (KING GEORGE)

CHAPTER XIII. 

MAORI CONSERVATISM

CHAPTER XIV. 

A MISSION SETTLEMENTTHE MECHANIC MISSIONARY

CHAPTER XV. 

VISIT FROM HONGIHONGI'S COAT OF MAIL

CHAPTER XVI. 

INTERVIEW WITH HONGI

CHAPTER XVII. 

A MAORI WELCOME

CHAPTER XVIII. 

INLAND EXCURSIONS

CHAPTER XIX. 

MAORI WOMEN'S CAMP

CHAPTER XX. 

LOADING SPARS, HOKIANGA

CHAPTER XXI. 

DEATH OF A CHIEFTRADING WITH MAORIS

CHAPTER XXII. 

BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE

CHAPTER XXIII. 

ANOTHER JOURNEYINTERIOR OF THE COUNTRY

CHAPTER XXIV. 

A WAR PARTY

CHAPTER XXV. 

HOSTILE DISPLAYTHE LAW OF MURU

CHAPTER XXVI. 

A SEDUCTION AND ITS CONSEQUENCES

CHAPTER XXVII. 

LAW OF RETALIATION

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

A WAR EXPEDITIONCANNIBALISM

CHAPTER XXIX. 

MAORI SLAVERY

CHAPTER XXX. 

PIRACY BY CONVICTS

CHAPTER XXXI. 

N. Z. CLIMATETHE STARVATION CURE

CHAPTER XXXII. 

THE ART OF TATTOOING

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

TRIBAL GOVERNMENTMAORI BELIEFSTHE CUSTOM OF TAPUSUNDAY OBSERVANCEMASSACRE OF FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

THE MAORIS' VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY

CHAPTER XXXV. 

HONGI'S THREATSPREPARING FOR WAR

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

WHALERS AND MISSIONARIES

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

THREATENED WAR

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

CONSTRUCTION OF A PA

CHAPTER XL. 

A SHAM FIGHT

CHAPTER XLI. 

AN EXCITING INCIDENTVISIT OF A GREAT TOHUNGA

CHAPTER XLII. 

VICTORIOUS WARRIORSTREATMENT OF PRISONERSBAKED HEADS

CHAPTER XLIII. 

VISITS OF WHALERS

CHAPTER XLIV. 

SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS

CHAPTER XLV. 

DEATH OF HONGI

CHAPTER XLVI. 

A TRIBAL CONFLICTSHULITEA (KING GEORGE) KILLED

CHAPTER XLVII. 

EXCITEMENT AT KORORAREKA

CHAPTER XLVIII. 

EARLE'S FAREWELLMISSIONARIES ALARMED

CHAPTER XLIX. 

JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA

CHAPTER L. 

EUROPEAN DEFENCESMR. HOBBS' MESSAGE OF PEACE

CHAPTER LI. 

MAORI SOCIAL CUSTOMSEUROPEAN LIAISONS WITH MAORISMAORI MARRIAGES

CHAPTER LII. 

A MAORI TANGI

CHAPTER LIII. 

MAORI CHARACTERISTICSORIGIN OF OUTRAGESFAMILY AFFECTION

CHAPTER LIV. 

TRADE OF HOKIANGA

CHAPTER LV. 

A CREW MASSACRED

CHAPTER LVI. 

FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALANDMAORIS IN SYDNEY

APPENDIX I. 

MASSACRE OF FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREWCANNIBALISM

APPENDIX II. 

A TRIBAL FIGHT

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A Maori War Speech (Frontispiece)Patuone, a Hokianga ChiefMission Station, KerikeriScene of Boyd MassacreMaori War ExpeditionMaori Method of TattooingSpecimens of TattooingWhalers at Bay of Islands

CHAPTER I. 

VOYAGE FROM SYDNEY. 

Having made up my mind to visit the island of New Zealand, and havingpersuaded my friend Mr. Shand to accompany me, we made an arrangement forthe passage with Captain Kent, of the brig Governor Macquarie, and, bidding adieu to our friends at Sydney, in a few hours (on October 20th, 1827) we were wafted into the great Pacific Ocean. 

There were several other passengers on board, who were proceeding to NewZealand to form a Wesleyan missionary establishment at Hokianga. Amongstthese were a Mr. And Mrs. Hobbs, who were most enthusiastic in the cause. They had formerly belonged to the same mission at Whangaroa, when a warwhich took place amongst the natives totally destroyed theirestablishment; and, after enduring great varieties of suffering, theyescaped, but lost everything they possessed, except the clothes they hadon. We had a very fine wind for nine days, and on the 29th we saw agannet, a sure sign we were within a hundred miles of land, for thesebirds are never seen at a greater distance from it. True to ouranticipations, towards the afternoon the water became discoloured, and atmidnight we saw the land. 

This interesting island, of which we now got sight, was first discoveredby that eminent and enterprising Dutch navigator, Tasman, subsequently tothe discovery of Van Diemen's Land. His voyage from Batavia in 1642, undertaken by order of the then Governor-General of Dutch India, AnthonyVan Diemen, was one of the most important and successful ever undertaken, for it was during this voyage that New Holland was discovered, of whichVan Diemen's Land was then supposed to form a part, the extensive islandof New Zealand being supposed to form another portion. [1]

The slight intercourse of the discoverers with the natives had socalamitous a termination, and the exaggerated accounts it was then a kindof fashion to give of savages, stigmatised the New Zealanders with such acharacter for treachery and cruelty, that their island was not visitedagain for upwards of a century, when the immortal Cook drew aside theveil of error and obscurity from this unexplored land, and rescued thecharacter of its inhabitants from the ignominy which its originaldiscoverers, the Dutch, had thrown upon them. This immense tract of landwas imagined by Tasman to form but one island, and he most unaptly gaveit the name of New Zealand, from its great resemblance (as was stated) tohis own country. [2]

In 1770 Cook discovered a strait of easy access and safe navigation, cutting the island nearly in half, thus making two islands of what hadbefore been imagined but one. This strait bears his name, and is oftentraversed by vessels from New South Wales returning home by way of CapeHorn. 

In 1827 His Majesty's ship Warsprite passed through this strait incompany with the Volage, twenty-eight guns, being the first English lineof battleship which had ever made the attempt. A few years since, CaptainStewart, commanding a colonial vessel out of Port Jackson, discoveredanother strait, which cut off the extreme southern point, making it aseparate island that bears his name, and now almost every year oursealers and whalers are making additional and useful discoveries alongits coasts. 

These islands lie between lat. 34° and 48°S. And long. 166° and 180°E. The opening of the land to which we were now opposite, and which was ourdestined port, the accurate eye of Cook had observed, but did not attemptthe entrance; and it is only about ten years since, when the two storeships, the Dromedary and Coromandel, loaded with spars on the coast, thata small vessel attending on those ships first crossed the bar; butalthough they took soundings and laid down buoys, the commanders of thelarge vessels were afraid of attempting the entrance, which proved theirgood sense, for their great draught of water would have rendered theundertaking more hazardous than the risk was worth. Yet during myresidence in this country two large vessels crossed the bar, andrecrossed it heavily laden, without the slightest accident--one theHarmony, of London, 400 tons burden; the other the Elizabeth, of Sydney, of nearly equal tonnage--but in proof that it is not always safe, a fewmonths after this, two schooners of extremely light draught were lost, though they were both commanded by men who perfectly well knew thechannels through the bar. It was a singular circumstance that bothvessels had been built in New Zealand; one, the Herald, a small andbeautiful craft, built by and belonging to the Church missionaries, thecrew of which escaped, but the disastrous circumstances attending thewreck of the other, called the Enterprise, I shall relate in their properplace. 

The morning of the 30th was foggy and unfavourable, but it suddenlycleared up, and exhibited the entrance of Hokianga right before us, and alight breeze came to our aid to carry us in. The entrance to this riveris very remarkable, and can never be mistaken by mariners. On the northside, for many miles, are hills of sand, white, bleak, and barren, endingabruptly at the entrance of the river, which is about a quarter of a mileacross. Where the south head rises abrupt, craggy, and black, the landall round is covered with verdure; thus, at the first glimpse of theseheads from the sea, one is white, the other black. 

The only difficulty attending the entrance (and, indeed, the only thingwhich prevents Hokianga from being one of the finest harbours in theworld) is the bar. This lies two miles from the mouth of the river, itshead enveloped in breakers and foam, bidding defiance and threateningdestruction to all large ships which may attempt the passage. However, we fortunately slipped over its sandy sides, undamaged, in three-fathomwater. 

After crossing the bar, no other obstacle lay in our way, and, floatinggradually into a beautiful river, we soon lost sight of the sea, and weresailing up a spacious sheet of water, which became considerably widerafter entering it; while majestic hills rose on each side, covered withverdure to their very summits. Looking up the river, we beheld variousheadlands stretching into the water, and gradually contracting in width, till they became fainter and fainter in the distance, and all was lost inthe azure of the horizon. The excitement occasioned by contemplatingthese beautiful scenes was soon interrupted by the hurried approach ofcanoes, and the extraordinary noises made by the natives who were inthem. 

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: The Dutch and Spanish had discovered N. E. Australia as earlyas 1606, and the Dutch had on several occasions visited the N. W. AndSouth coasts of the Continent before the date of Tasman's voyage. ]

[Footnote 2: The name given by Tasman was Staten Landt. The name NewZealand was bestowed in 1643 by the States-General of the UnitedProvinces. ]

CHAPTER II. 

RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES. 

As the arrival of a ship is always a profitable occurrence, greatexertions are made to be the first on board. There were several canoespulling towards us, and from them a number of muskets were fired, acompliment we returned with our swivels; one of the canoes soon camealongside, and an old chief came on board, who rubbed noses with CaptainKent, whom he recognised as an old acquaintance; he then went round andshook hands with all the strangers, after which he squatted himself downupon the deck, seeming very much to enjoy the triumph of being the firston board. But others very soon coming up with us, our decks were crowdedwith them, some boarding us at the gangway, others climbing up the chainsand bows, and finding entrances where they could. All were in perfectgood humour, and pleasure beamed in all their countenances. 

I had heard a great deal respecting the splendid race of men I was goingto visit, and the few specimens I had occasionally met with at Sydney somuch pleased me, that I was extremely anxious to see a number of themtogether, to judge whether (as a nation) they were finer in theirproportions than the English, or whether it was mere accident thatbrought some of their tallest and finest proportioned men before me. 

I examined these savages, as they crowded round our decks, with thecritical eye of an artist; they were generally taller and larger menthan ourselves; those of middle height were broad-chested and muscular, and their limbs as sinewy as though they had been occupied all theirlives in laborious employments. Their colour is lighter than that of theAmerican Indian, their features small and regular, their hair is in aprofusion of beautiful curls, whereas that of the Indian is straight andlank. The disposition of the New Zealander appears to be full of fun andgaiety, while the Indian is dull, shy, and suspicious. 

I have known Indians in America from the north to the south--themiserable, idiotic Botecooda of Brazil, the fierce warrior of Canada, andthe gentle and civilised Peruvian, yet in their features and complexionsthey are all much alike. I observed their statures altered with theirdifferent latitudes; the Chilians and the Canadians being nearly thesame, in figure tall, thin, and active, their climate being nearly thesame, although at the two extremes of America; while those living betweenthe equinoxes are short, fat, and lazy. I am persuaded that these SouthSea Islanders, though so nearly of the same complexion, still are not ofthe same race, laziness being the characteristic of the American Indianfrom north to south, while the New Zealanders are laborious in theextreme, as their astonishing and minute carvings prove. The moment theIndian tasted intoxicating spirits his valour left him, he became anidiot and a tool in the hands of the white man. Here they have the utmostaversion to every kind of "wine or strong drink, " and very often severelytake us to task for indulging in such an extraordinary and debasingpropensity, or, as they call it, "of making ourselves mad;" but bothnations are equally fond of tobacco. 

The first thing which struck me forcibly was, that each of these savageswas armed with a good musket, and most of them had also a cartouch boxbuckled round their waists, filled with ball cartridges, and those whohad fired their pieces from the canoes carefully cleaned the pans, covered the locks over with a piece of dry rag, and put them in a secureplace in their canoes. Every person who has read Captain Cook's accountof the natives of New Zealand would be astonished at the change which hastaken place since his time, when the firing of a single musket would haveterrified a whole village. 

As we sailed up the river very slowly, the throng of savages increased tosuch a degree that we could scarcely move, and, to add to our confusion, they gave us "a dance of welcome, " standing on one spot, and stamping sofuriously that I really feared they would have stove in the decks, whichour lady passengers were obliged to leave, as when the dance began eachman proceeded to strip himself naked, a custom indispensable amongthemselves. 

We came to an anchor off a native village called Pakanae, where twochiefs of consequence came on board, who soon cleared our decks of aconsiderable number. We paid great attention to these chiefs, admittingthem into the cabin, etc. , and it had the effect of lessening the noise, and bringing about some kind of order amongst those who still continuedon deck. The names of these chiefs were Moetara and Akaeigh, and theywere the heads of the village opposite to which we had anchored. Theywere well known to our captain, who spoke their language. They wereaccustomed to the society of Europeans, also to transact business withthem; and as they were flax, timber, and hog merchants, they and thecaptain talked over the state of the markets during the evening. Theywere clothed in mats, called Kaka-hoos. The ladies joined our party atsupper, and we spent a very cheerful time with our savage visitors, whoboth behaved in as polite and respectful a manner as the best educatedgentlemen could have done; their pleasing manners so ingratiated theminto the good opinion of the ladies, that they all declared "they wouldbe really very handsome men if their faces were not tattooed. "

The next day we received a visit from Mr. And Mrs. Butler, Englishpeople, who had taken up their residence here for the purpose of trading, and we returned with them on shore, taking our female passengers with us, and leaving them in charge of Mrs. Butler. I determined to stroll throughthe village, which is, in fact, a collection of rude huts, huddledtogether without system or regularity. Dock leaves and weeds of everydescription were growing luxuriantly all round them, and in many placesactually overtopping the houses, few being more than four feet high, witha doorway about two feet. Scarcely any of them were inhabited, as at thisseason of the year the greater part of the population prefer living inthe open air to remaining in their small, smoky ovens of houses. 

I had not rambled far before I witnessed a scene which forcibly remindedme of the savage country in which I then was, and the great alteration ofcharacter and customs a few days' sail will make. The sight to me soappalling was that of the remains of a human body which had been roasted, and a number of hogs and dogs were snarling and feasting upon it! I wasmore shocked than surprised, for I had been informed of the character ofthe New Zealanders long before my arrival amongst them; still, thecoming suddenly and unexpectedly upon a sight like this completelysickened me of rambling, at least for that day, and I hastened back toMr. Butler's, eager to inquire into the particulars of the horridcatastrophe. 

That gentleman informed me that the night of the arrival of our ship, achief had set one of his kookies (or slaves) to watch a piece of groundplanted with the kumara, or sweet potato, in order to prevent the hogscommitting depredations upon it. The poor lad, delighted with theappearance of our vessel, was more intent upon observing her come to ananchor than upon guarding his master's property, and suffered the hogs toramble into the plantation, where they soon made dreadful havoc. In themidst of this trespass and neglect of orders his master arrived. Theresult was certain; he instantly killed the unfortunate boy with a blowon the head from his stone hatchet, then ordered a fire to be made, andthe body to be dragged to it, where it was roasted and consumed. 

It was now time to return on board, and we walked down to the beach forthat purpose, but it was quite low water, and the boat was full twohundred feet off. She lay at the end of a long, slimy, muddy flat, andwhile we were debating how we should manage to get to her, the nativechiefs took up the females in their arms, as though they were children, and, in spite of all their blushes and remonstrances, carried them to theboat and placed them safely in it, each seeming to enjoy the task. Theythen returned and gave us a passage, walking as easily with us upon theirbacks as if we had been no heavier than so many muskets. We took care notto shock the feelings of the females by letting them know the tragedy solately acted in the village, or horrify them by telling them that one oftheir carriers was the murderer! It would have been difficult to havemade them believe that such a noble-looking and good-natured fellow hadso lately imbrued his hands in the blood of a fellow creature. 

We had now been lying here two days, and the curiosity of the people didnot diminish, nor were our visitors less numerous. Parties were hourlycoming up and down the river to pay their respects to our captain, andthe report of there being numerous passengers on board greatly increasedtheir desire to hold intercourse with us. They all appeared anxious tomake themselves useful, some chopping wood for our cook, others assistingthe steward, in order to get what might be left on the plates, othersbrought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of anyexcuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusionattending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them. They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, andthe injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left itoff. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so atthe risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge isproved against them, their heads are cut off!

CHAPTER III. 

A RAMBLE ASHORE. 

On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of alarge conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortificationon the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language afortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water, and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-likespirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they alwaysshould have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they neverknow how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To theright of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state ofcultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill, I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all theinhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes, kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, boldbackground, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered totheir summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a naturalbarrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while fromtheir wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which, meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meanderingthrough the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, theyempty themselves into the Hokianga river. 

Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, Ifelt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. Theregularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry ontheir various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in theSouth Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example oflabour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round thevillage of Pakanae, at one glance is to be seen above 200 acres ofcultivated land, and that not slightly turned up, but well worked andcleared; and when the badness of their tools is considered, together withtheir limited knowledge of agriculture, their persevering industry I lookupon as truly astonishing. 

The New Zealanders have established here a wise custom, which prevents agreat deal of waste and confusion, and generally preserves to the plantera good crop, in return for the trouble of sowing; namely, as soon as theground is finished, and the seed sown, it is _tabooed, _ that, is renderedsacred, by men appointed for that service, and it is death to trampleover or disturb any part of this consecrated ground. The wisdom andutility of this regulation must be obvious to every one. But, howeveruseful this taboo system is to the natives, it is a great inconvenienceto a stranger who is rambling over the country, for if he does not usethe greatest caution, and procure a guide, he may get himself into aserious dilemma before his rambles be over, which had nearly been thecase with our party this day. We were ascending a hill, for the purposeof inspecting a New Zealand fortification on the summit, when a littleboy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting afish-hook from us--a thing the natives are continually asking for; but aswe had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not muchregard the boy's guidance, though to us it speedily became of greatimportance. We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the topof the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror. Ourinterpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed. We did as he desiredus, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of thetrees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could notmake out what it was. This, he told us, was the body of a chief, thenundergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, whichprocess is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone arepermitted to approach the spot. The ground all round is tabooed, so that, had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we shouldcertainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is aquestion if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered asufficient excuse for our offence. 

The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containingseveral hundred warriors. It was cut into slopes all round, and fortifiedby stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable. Thenatives assured me its strength had been often tried. The famous warriorHongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated withgreat loss. After inspecting this fortification, which excited ouradmiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill. Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields. Weentered several of their habitations, and found all their propertyexposed and unguarded. Even their muskets and powder, which they prizeabove everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robberyhave they amongst themselves. But as there are many hogs and dogs roamingat large through their villages, they are very careful to fence theirdwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredationsof these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have verymuch the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches. Their storehousesare generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooedor consecrated. Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving andornamenting these depositories. I made drawings from several of them, which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts atgroups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of theart of sculpture amongst them. Many of the attempts of the New Zealandersin that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens Ihave seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians. 

Painting and sculpture are both arts greatly admired by these rudepeople. Every house of consequence is ornamented and embellished, andtheir canoes have the most minute and elaborate workmanship bestowed uponthem. 

Their food is always eaten out of little baskets, rudely woven of greenflax; and as they generally leave some for their next meal, they hangthese baskets on sticks or props, till they are ready to eat again. Thusa village presents a very singular appearance, as it is stuck full ofsticks, with various kinds of baskets hanging from them. This plan, however, is the most rational that could be adopted, as none of theireatables can be left on the ground, or they would become the prey of thehogs and dogs. 

In the course of our long ramble we noticed many pretty little huts, somehaving neat gardens all round them, planted with fruits and corn. Onehouse which we saw was built by a chief who had made several voyages toPort Jackson, and it was really a very comfortable dwelling. It had ahigh door, which we could enter without stooping, and in a separate roomwas constructed a bed, after the pattern of one on ship-board. He hadlikewise a large sea-chest in his house, the key of which (highlypolished) was hung round his neck as an ornament. In the course of ourwalk we came to a spot on which a group of old people were sittingsunning themselves, and they immediately all rose to welcome us. Iremarked one amongst them who seemed, from his silvery locks and feeblelimbs, to be very old. I asked him, among other questions, whether heremembered Captain Cook. He said he did not, but well recollected CaptainFurneaux, and was one of the party which cut off and massacred his boat'screw; and from other information which I received I believe his assertionto have been correct. [3]

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 3: Captain Furneaux's account of this massacre is printed inthe Appendix. ]

CHAPTER IV. 

THE HOKIANGA RIVER EIGHTY YEARS AGO. 

As our missionary passengers had by this time fixed upon the spot wherethey intended to establish their settlement, and it being several milesup the river, we got under weigh to proceed thither. The captain'sagreement being to that effect, we proceeded with the first fair wind, about twenty miles up the stream, which was as far as we could withsafety take the vessel. The shores on each side this noble river arecomposed of hills gradually rising behind each other, most of themcovered with woods to the water's edge. Not a vestige of a habitation isto be seen, and if it had not been for the occasional sight of a canoe, we might have imagined the country to be totally uninhabited. Opposite asmall island, or, rather, sand-bank, the vessel grounded, and had toremain there till the next tide floated her off. It was a curious andinteresting spot, being a native pa and depot, and was entirely coveredwith storehouses for provisions and ammunition. The centre was socontrived that all assailants might be cut off before they could effect alanding; and we were all much gratified by the judgment and forethoughtdisplayed in this little military work. The next morning we got off, butcould not proceed far, as the shoals were becoming so numerous as torender the navigation dangerous. But here we beheld, with both surpriseand satisfaction, a most unexpected sight, namely, a snug little colonyof our own countrymen, comfortably settled and usefully employed in thissavage and unexplored country. Some enterprising merchants of PortJackson have established here a dockyard and a number of sawpits. Severalvessels have been laden with timber and spars; one vessel has been built, launched, and sent to sea from this spot; and another of a hundred andfifty tons burthen was then upon the stocks!

On landing at this establishment at Te Horeke, or, as the Englishmen havecalled it, "Deptford, " I was greatly delighted with the appearance oforder, bustle, and industry it presented. Here were storehouses, dwelling-houses, and various offices for the mechanics; and everydepartment seemed as well filled as it could have been in a civilisedcountry. To me the most interesting circumstance was to notice the greatdelight of the natives, and the pleasure they seemed to take in observingthe progress of the various works. All were officious to "lend a hand, "and each seemed eager to be employed. This feeling corresponds with myidea of the best method of civilising a savage. Nothing can morecompletely show the importance of the useful arts than a dockyard. In itare practised nearly all the mechanical trades; and these present to thebusy enquiring mind of a New Zealander a practical encyclopaedia ofknowledge. When he sees the combined exertions of the smith and carpentercreate so huge a fabric as a ship, his mind is filled with wonder anddelight; and when he witnesses the moulding of iron at the anvil, itexcites his astonishment and emulation. 

The people of the dockyard informed me that, although it was constantlycrowded with natives, scarcely anything had ever been stolen, and all thechiefs in the neighbourhood took so great an interest in the work thatany annoyance offered to those employed would immediately be revenged asa personal affront. 

CHAPTER V. 

JOURNEY OVERLAND TO BAY OF ISLANDS. 

Here we left the brig to unload her cargo; my friend Shand and myselfhaving determined to proceed overland to the Bay of Islands. Anintelligent chief, hearing of our intention, offered to accompany ushimself, and lent us two of his kookies to carry our baggage. We acceptedthe chieftain's offer, and several other natives joined the party to bearus company. 

November 7. --We all embarked in a canoe, in order to reach the head ofthe river before we began our pedestrian tour; and, after paddling abouteight or nine miles further up, where the river became exceedinglynarrow, we came to another English settlement. This consisted of a partyof men who had come out in the Rosanna, the vessel employed by the NewZealand Company. When all ideas of settling were totally abandoned by theofficers sent out for that purpose, these men chose rather to remain bythemselves than to return home; and we found them busily employed incutting timber, sawing planks, and making oars for the Sydney market. Howfar they may prove successful, time only can develop; but as theseenterprising men had only their own industry to assist them, it could notbe expected that their establishment could bear a comparison with the oneat Te Horeke, which is supported by several of the most wealthymerchants of New South Wales. 

As the river became narrower, the habitations of the natives were morenumerous. The chief of this district (whose name is Patuone) has asplendid village very near the carpenters' establishment we have justdescribed. He had taken these industrious men under his especialprotection, and seemed very proud of having a settlement of that kind inhis territories, as it gave him power and consequence among all theneighbouring chiefs, from the trade he carried on by means of theirexertions. 

Patuone had likewise induced the Wesleyan missionaries to settle upon hisland, about a mile below; so that the head of this river assumed quitethe appearance of a civilised colony. 

Our party now disembarked. We landed in a dense forest, which reached tothe water's edge; and our guides and slaves began to divide the loadseach was to carry on his back. Several joined us from the two Englishstations on the river, and we then amounted to a very large party; all inhigh spirits, and anxious to proceed on our journey. When our natives haddistributed the luggage, they loaded themselves, which they did with bothskill and quickness; for a New Zealander is never at a loss for cords orropes. Their plan is to gather a few handfuls of flax, which they soontwist into a very good substitute: with this material they formed slings, with which they dexterously fastened our moveables on their backs, andset off at a good trot, calling out to us to follow them. 

CHAPTER VI. 

MEETING WITH THE CHIEF PATUONE. 

We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could notpenetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so closetogether that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselvesthrough them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersectedthis forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill. The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed bycutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these ourbare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all theagility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several timesthey seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. Thechief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safethrough every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over suchplaces as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon. 

In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone, who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small, cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholdingstrangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us. He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a villagebelonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we mustthere pass the night. 

[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief. ]

We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token offriendship), and parted. 

Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull, cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country;but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that theywere gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distributethese useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take careof them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed, consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to theirliking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us. We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wetfrom a recent and heavy shower. 

CHAPTER VII. 

A MAORI VILLAGE. 

The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, oneof the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this timereduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large treeslying athwart it, we conjectured that during heavy rains it must be amighty flood. A long straggling collection of huts composed the village:a great deal of land in its vicinity was cleared and planted, whichdoubtless was the ostensible object of Patuone's people being here. Asthe village lay upon the opposite shore from that on which we arrived, wesat some time under the shelter of a large tree, to contemplate itsappearance, and to give time to arrange our party for passing the stream, and also for my making a sketch. The red glare of the setting sun, justtouching the top of every object, beautifully illuminated the landscape;and its rays bursting through the black woods in the background, gave thewoods an appearance of being on fire; while a beautiful rainbow, thrownacross the sky, tinged the scene with a fairy-land effect. 

As soon as they perceived us from the opposite shore, a loud shout ofwelcome was raised, and all the inhabitants came out to meet us. Theycarried us over the stream, conducted us to their huts, and then sat downto gaze at and admire us. 

As we were very hungry after our fatiguing walk, we soon unpacked ourbaggage, and in so doing made an unavoidable display of many valuable andglittering objects, which roused the attention of our savage spectators, and caused them, on the unfolding of every fresh object, to make loud andlong exclamations of wonder and amazement. As I was then "a stranger intheir land, " and unaccustomed to their peculiarities, I felt a littlealarmed at their shouts; but, on a longer acquaintance with them, I foundmy fears had been groundless. 

Here we saw the son of Patuone, accompanied by thirty or forty youngsavages, sitting or lying all round us. All were exceedingly handsome, notwithstanding the wildness of their appearance and the ferocity oftheir looks. Let the reader picture to himself this savage group, handling everything they saw, each one armed with a musket, loaded withball, a cartouch-box buckled round his waist, and a stone patoo-patoo, orhatchet, in his hand, while human bones were hung round each neck by wayof ornament; let the scene and situation be taken into consideration, andhe will acknowledge it was calculated to make the young traveller wishhimself safe at home; but, when I suspected, I wronged them; for afteradmiring everything we had brought with us (more especially ourfowling-pieces, which were very beautiful ones), they begged a littletobacco, then retired to a distance from the hut which had been preparedfor our reception, and left us to take our supper uninterrupted; afterwhich they placed all our baggage in the hut, that we might be assured ofits safety. 

It proved a rainy, miserable night; and we were a large party, crowdedinto a small, smoky hut, with a fire lighted in the middle; as, afterour supper, the natives, in order to have as much of our company aspossible, crowded it till it was literally crammed. However annoying thismight be, still I was recompensed by the novelty and picturesqueappearance of the scene. Salvator Rosa could not have conceived a finerstudy of the horrible. A dozen men, of the largest and most athleticforms, their cakahoos (or mat-dresses) laid aside, and their huge limbsexposed to the red glare of the fire; their faces rendered hideous bybeing tattooed all over, showing by the firelight quite a bright blue;their eyes, which are remarkable for their fierce expression, all fixedupon us, but with a look of good temper, co-mingled with intensecuriosity. All my fears had by this time subsided, and, being master ofmyself, I had leisure to study and enjoy the scene; we smoked a socialpipe with them (for they are all immoderately fond of tobacco), and Ithen stretched myself down to sleep amidst all their chattering andsmoke. 

But all my attempts at slumber were fruitless. I underwent a simultaneousattack of vermin of all descriptions; fleas, mosquitoes, and sand-flies, which, beside their depredations on my person, made such a buzzing noise, that even the chattering of the natives could not drown it, or the smokefrom the fire or pipes drive them away. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

TOILSOME JOURNEY THROUGH THE FOREST. 

Next morning, at daybreak, we took leave of our hosts, and proceeded onour journey; we had eight miles more of this thick forest to scramblethrough, and this part we found considerably worse than that we hadtraversed yesterday. The roots of trees covered the path in alldirections, rendering it necessary to watch every step we took, in orderto prevent being thrown down; the supple-jacks, suspended and twiningfrom tree to tree, making in many places a complete net-work; and whilewe were toiling with the greatest difficulty through this miserable road, our natives were jogging on as comfortably as possible: use had socompletely accustomed them to it, that they sprung over the roots, anddived under the supple-jacks and branches, with perfect ease, while wewere panting after them in vain. The whole way was mountainous. Theclimbing up, and then descending, was truly frightful; not a gleam of skywas to be seen, all was a mass of gigantic trees, straight and lofty, their wide spreading branches mingling overhead, and producing throughoutthe forest an endless darkness and unbroken gloom. 

After three or four hours of laborious struggling, we emerged from thewood, and found ourselves upon an extensive plain, which, as far as theeye could reach, appeared covered with fern. A small path lay before us, and this was our road. The New Zealanders always travel on foot, oneafter the other, or in Indian file. Their pathways are not more than afoot wide, which to a European is most painful; but as the nativesinvariably walk with the feet turned in, or pigeon-toed, they feel noinconvenience from the narrowness. When a traveller is once on the path, it is impossible for him to go astray. No other animal, except man, evertraverses this country, and _his_ track cannot be mistaken, since noneever deviate from the beaten footpath, which was in consequence, in someplaces (where the soil was light), worn so deep as to resemble a guttermore than a road. We proceeded for many miles in this unsocial manner;unsocial, for it precludes all conversation. Our natives occasionallygave us a song, or, rather, dirge, in which they all joined chorus. Having at length attained the summit of a hill, we beheld the Bay ofIslands, stretching out in the distance; and at sunset we arrived at theKerikeri river, where there is a Church-missionary settlement. 

[Illustration: Mission Station, Kerikeri. ]

CHAPTER IX. 

THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT AT KERIKERI. 

We had travelled all day through a country in which every object we sawwas of a character that reminded us forcibly of the savage community wewere with. Occasionally we met groups of naked men, trotting along underimmense loads, and screaming their barbarous songs of recognition;sometimes we beheld an uncouthly carved figure, daubed over with redochre, and fixed in the ground, to give notice that one side of the roadwas tabooed. An extraordinary contrast was now presented to our view, forwe came suddenly in front of a complete little English village. Wreathsof white smoke were rising from the chimneys, of neat weather-boardedhouses. The glazed windows reflected the brilliant glow from the rays ofthe setting sun, while herds of fat cattle were winding down the hills, lowing as they leisurely bent their steps toward the farm-yard. It isimpossible for me to describe what I felt on contemplating a scene sosimilar to those I had left behind me. 

According to the custom of this country, we fired our muskets, to warnthe inhabitants of the settlement of our approach. We arranged ourdresses in the best order we could, and proceeded towards the village. Asthe report of our guns had been heard, groups of nondescripts camerunning out to meet us. I could scarcely tell to what order of beingsthey belonged; but on their near approach, I found them to be the NewZealand youths, who were settled with the missionaries. They were habitedin the most uncouth dresses imaginable. These pious men, certainly, haveno taste for the picturesque; they had obscured the finest human formsunder a seaman's huge clothing. Boys not more than fifteen wore jacketsreaching to their knees, and buttoned up to the throat with great blackhorn buttons, a coarse checked shirt, the collar of which spread half-wayover their face, their luxuriant, beautiful hair was cut close off, andeach head was crammed into a close Scotch bonnet!

These half-converted, or, rather, half-_covered_, youths, after rubbingnoses, and chattering with our guides, conducted us to the dwellings oftheir masters. As I had a letter of introduction from one of their ownbody, I felt not the slightest doubt of a kind reception; so we proceededwith confidence. We were ushered into a house, all cleanliness andcomfort, all order, silence, and unsociability. After presenting myletter to a grave-looking personage, it had to undergo a privateinspection in an adjoining room, and the result was an invitation "tostay and take a cup of tea!" All that an abundant farm and excellentgrocer in England could supply were soon before us. Each person of themission, as he appeared during our repast, was called aside, and I couldhear my own letter read and discussed by them. I could not help thinking(within myself) whether this was a way to receive a countryman at theAntipodes! No smile beamed upon their countenance; there were noinquiries after news; in short, there was no touch of human sympathy, such as we "of the world" feel at receiving an Englishman under our roofin such a savage country as this!

The chubby children who peeped at us from all corners, and the veryhearty appearance of their parents, plainly evidenced that theirs was anexcellent and thriving trade. We had a cold invitation to stay all night;but this the number of our party entirely precluded; so they lent ustheir boat to convey us to the Bay of Islands, a distance of abouttwenty-five miles. 

As the night proved dark and stormy, and as our boat was crowded withnatives, our passage down the Kerikeri river became both disagreeable anddangerous. The river being filled with rocks, some under, and others justabove the water, we were obliged to keep a good look-out. Afterexperiencing many alarms, we arrived safely at Kororareka beach aboutmidnight, where an Englishman of the name of Johnstone gave us a shelterin his hut. 

CHAPTER X. 

THE BAY OF ISLANDS. 

In the morning we beheld two vessels at anchor in the harbour. TheIndian, whaler, of London, and the East India Company's ship Research;which latter ship had been cruising in search of the wreck of the vesselsunder the command of La Perouse, and had completely elucidated thecircumstances relating to that event. The Bay of Islands is surrounded bylofty and picturesque hills, and is secured from all winds. It is full oflovely coves, and a safe anchorage is to be found nearly all over it;added to this, a number of navigable rivers are for ever emptyingthemselves into the Bay, which is spotted with innumerable romanticislands all covered with perpetual verdure. 

It is with peculiar interest that we look upon the spot where theillustrious Cook cast anchor after his discovery of this Bay. Someunhappy quarrels with the natives occasioned much blood to be shed onboth sides, and for a long time caused this island to be looked upon withhorror, and avoided by all Europeans. It was the courage and enterpriseof the crews of our South Sea Whalers who exhibited these interestingislanders in their true character, and proved to the world that it wasquite as safe to anchor in the Bay of Islands as in the harbour of PortJackson. 

CHAPTER XI. 

THE MASSACRE OF THE "BOYD. "

Since the time of Cook, and other circumnavigators of that period, thecharacter of these people has undergone a thorough change. Then it wasnecessary when a ship anchored, that the boarding nettings should be up, and all the arms ready for immediate use. The principal object the chiefshad in view seemed to be to lull the commanders into a fatal security, then to rush upon them, seize their vessel, and murder all the crew! Toooften had they succeeded, and as often have they paid most dearly fortheir treachery and cruelty. In the case of the ship Boyd, though theyattained their object, they were as completely punished for theirperfidy. From their ignorance of the nature of powder, and the use of amagazine, they blew up the ship, and vast numbers of the natives weredestroyed. Besides this calamity, they brought down upon themselves thevengeance of every vessel that visited these shores for a long periodafterwards. As the circumstances may not be generally known, Mr. Berry'sletter, relating the particulars of that melancholy, yet interestingevent, is here inserted:--

 "Ship, City of Edinburgh, "Lima, Oct. 20, 1810. Sir, --

 I am very sorry to have the painful task of introducing myself to you, with an account of the loss of your ship Boyd, Captain Thompson. 

 Towards the end of last year I was employed in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, in procuring a cargo of spars for the Cape of Good Hope. About the middle of December the natives brought me an account of a ship's being taken at Whangaroa, a harbour about fifty miles to the N. W. At first we were disposed to doubt the truth of this report, but it every day became more probable, from the variety of circumstances they informed us of; and which were so connected as appeared impossible for them to invent. Accordingly, about the end of the month, when we had finished our cargo, although it was a business of some danger, I determined to go round. 

 "I set out with three armed boats: we experienced very bad weather, and after a narrow escape were glad to return to the ship. As we arrived in a most miserable condition, I had then relinquished all idea of the enterprise; but having recruited my strength and spirits, I was shocked at the idea of leaving any of my countrymen in the hands of savages, and determined to make a second attempt. We had this time better weather, and reached the harbour without any difficulty. Whangaroa is formed as follows:--First, a large outer bay, with an island at its entrance; in the bottom of this bay is seen a narrow opening, which appears terminated at the distance of a quarter of a mile; but, upon entering it, it is seen to expand into two large basins, at least as secure as any of the docks on the banks of the Thames, and capable of containing (I think) the whole British navy. We found the wreck of the Boyd in shoal water, at the top of the harbour, a most melancholy picture of wanton mischief. The natives had cut her cables, and towed her up the harbour till she had grounded, and then set her on fire, and burnt her to the water's edge. In her hold were seen the remains of her cargo--coals, salted seal skins, and planks. Her guns, iron, standards, etc. , were lying on the top, having fallen in when her decks were consumed. 

 "The cargo must have been very valuable; but it appears that the captain, anxious to make a better voyage, had come to that port for the purpose of filling up with spars for the Cape of Good Hope. 

 "Not to tire you with the minutia of the business, I recovered from the natives a woman, two children, and a boy of the name of Davies, one of your apprentices, who were the only survivors. I found also the accompanying papers, which, I hope, may prove of service to you. I did all this by gentle measures, and you will admit that bloodshed and revenge would have answered no good purpose. The ship was taken the third morning after her arrival. The captain had been rather too hasty in resenting some slight theft. Early in the morning the ship was surrounded by a great number of canoes, and many natives gradually insinuated themselves on board. Tippahee, a chief of the Bay of Islands, and who had been twice at Port Jackson, also arrived; he went into the cabin, and, after paying his respects to the captain, begged a little bread for his men; but the captain received him rather slightingly, and desired him to go away, and not trouble him, as he was busy. 

 "The proud old savage (who had been a constant guest at the Governor's table at Port Jackson) was highly offended at this treatment, immediately left the cabin, and, after stamping a few minutes on the deck, went into his canoe. After breakfast the captain went on shore with four hands, and no other arms but his fowling-piece. From the account of the savages, as soon as he landed they rushed upon him; he had only time to fire his piece, and it killed a child. As soon as the captain left the ship, Tippahee (who remained alongside in his canoe) came again on board. A number of sailors were repairing sails upon the quarter deck, and the remainder were carelessly dispersed about, and fifty of the natives were sitting on the deck. In a moment they all started up, and each knocked his man on the head: a few ran wounded below, and four or five escaped up the rigging, and in a few seconds the savages had complete possession of the ship. The boy Davies escaped into the hold, where he lay concealed for several days, till they were fairly glutted with human blood, when they spared his life. The woman says she was discovered by an old savage, and that she moved him by her tears and embraces; that he (being a subordinate chief) carried her to Tippahee, who allowed him to spare her life. She says, that at this time the deck was covered with human bodies, which they were employed in cutting up; after which they exhibited a most horrid dance and song in honour of their victory, and concluded by a hymn of gratitude to their god. 

 "Tippahee now took the speaking trumpet, and hailing the poor wretches at the mast-head, told them that he was now captain, and that they must in future obey his commands. He then ordered them to unbend the sails, they readily complied; but when he ordered them to come down they hesitated, but he enforced prompt obedience by threatening to cut away the masts. When they came down he received them with much civility, and told them he would take care of them; he immediately ordered them into a canoe, and sent them on shore. A few minutes after this the woman went on shore with her deliverer. The first object that struck her view was the dead bodies of these men, lying naked on the beach. As soon as she landed a number of men started up, and marched towards her with their patoo-patoos. A number of women ran screaming betwixt them, covered her with their clothes, and by tears and entreaties saved her life. 

 "The horrid feasting on human flesh which followed would be too shocking for description. The second mate begged his life at the time of the general massacre; they spared him for a fortnight, and then killed and eat him. I think if the captain had received Tippahee with a little more civility, that he would have informed him of his danger, and saved the ship; but that from being treated in the manner I have mentioned, he entered into the plot along with the others. 

 "I assure you it has been a most unpleasant thing for me to write about, and I could only have been induced to do it from a sense of duty, and a desire to give you all the information in my power, which I suppose may be of some use. 

 "I am, Sir, "Your obedient humble servant, "ALEXANDER BERRY. "

Considering Mr. Berry's limited acquaintance with these islanders, andthe horror of the scene before him, his is a good and an impartialaccount; but facts which have been obtained subsequently have exoneratedthe natives to a certain extent. By repeated conversations I have heldwith several chiefs who were engaged in this dreadful affair, and frominformation I procured at Sydney, I have no doubt but that the Captainhimself was the most in fault. 

[Illustration: Whangaroa, Scene of the "Boyd" Massacre. ]

He was commissioned by the Government of New South Wales to land a nativechief named Philip at New Zealand, whom he subjected to a cruel andimpolitic punishment. This man, smarting from his stripes, and burningwith a desire to revenge his dishonourable treatment, excited all hisfriends to the commission of that bloody massacre. 

CHAPTER XII. 

THE FIRST SETTLEMENT AT KORORAREKA. 

The tragic fate of the Boyd's crew is now fast sinking into oblivion;and, like the islanders of Hawaii, after the murder of Cook, they seem towish to obliterate the remembrance of their disgraceful conduct by a kindand friendly intercourse with our nation. The severe chastisement whichthey have always received from us after a treacherous action, has provedto them how little they gain by so debasing a line of conduct; and asthey are most anxious to possess many of our productions, they seem tohave come to a resolution to abandon their former system; which, if theymay not be sensible of the injustice of, they see is destructive to theirown interests; and now every chief is as solicitous for the safety of aEuropean vessel as he would have been formerly for its destruction. 

They have not only lost a portion of their ferocity, but also much oftheir native simplicity of character, which, in all parts of the world, is so highly interesting a study for the traveller. Their constantintercourse with whalers, who are generally low, unpolished men, leavesbehind it a tinge of vulgarity, of which the native women retain thelargest portion. In many instances, they quite spoil their good looks, byhalf adopting the European costume. Those who are living in theretirement of their own villages have a natural ease and elegance ofmanner, which they soon lose after their introduction to our roughsailors. I have seen a party of very handsome girls, just landing fromone of the whalers, their beautiful forms hid under old greasy red orchecked shirts, generally put on with the hind parts before. In somecases the sailors, knowing their taste for finery, bring out with them, from London, old tawdry gowns, and fierce coloured ribands. And thusequipped, they come on shore the most grotesque objects imaginable, eachhighly delighted with her gaudy habiliments. 

Kororareka beach, where we took up our residence, seemed the generalplace of rendezvous for all Europeans whom chance might bring into thisbay. At this time there were two large vessels lying at anchor within aquarter of a mile of the shore, and I was informed there were sometimesas many as twelve or thirteen. 

The spot is a most delightful one, being about three-quarters of a milein extent, sheltered by two picturesque promontories, and possessing afine circular, firm, sandy beach, on which there is seldom much surf, sothat boats can at all times land and haul up. Scattered amongst therushes and small bushes is seen a New Zealand village, which at firstlanding is scarcely perceptible, the huts being so low. Some of them areof English design, though of native workmanship. These are generally thedwellings of some Europeans, who are of so doubtful a character that itwould be difficult to guess to what order of society they belongedprevious to their being transplanted amongst these savages. 

I found a respectable body of Scotch mechanics settled here, who came outin the New Zealand Company's ship Rosanna, and who determined to remainat Kororareka. Their persevering industry as yet has been crowned withsuccess, and they seem well pleased with the prospects before them. 

Here, these hardy sons of Britain are employed in both carrying on andinstructing the wondering savage in various branches of useful art. Herethe smith has erected his forge, and his sooty mansion is crowded bycurious natives, who voluntarily perform the hardest and most dirty work, and consider themselves fully recompensed by a sight of his mysteriouslabours, every portion of which fills them with astonishment. Here isheard daily the sound of the sawpit, while piles of neat white planksappear arranged on the beach. These laborious and useful Scotchmeninterfere with no one, and pursue successfully their industrious career, without either requiring or receiving any assistance from Home. 

But there is another class of Europeans here, who are both useless anddangerous, and these lower the character of the white people in theestimation of the natives. These men are called "Beach Rangers, " most ofwhom have deserted from, or have been turned out of whalers for crimes, for which, had they been taken Home and tried, they would have beenhanged; some few among them, having been too lazy to finish the voyagethey had begun, had deserted from their ships, and were then leading amean and miserable life amongst the natives. 

There is still a third class of our countrymen to be met with here, whosedowncast and sneaking looks proclaim them to be runaway convicts from NewSouth Wales. These unhappy men are treated with derision and contempt byall classes; and the New Zealanders, being perfectly aware of their stateof degradation, refuse all intercourse with them. They are idle, unprincipled, and vicious in the extreme, and are much feared in the Bayof Islands; for when by any means they obtain liquor, they provethemselves most dangerous neighbours. 

My friend Shand and myself were most comfortably situated. An intimatefriend of mine (Captain Duke, of the whaler The Sisters) had, inconsequence of ill-health, taken up his residence on shore while hisvessel completed her cruise. In his hut we found comfort and safety; andfrom his information and advice we were enabled to avoid the advances ofall whom his experience had taught him were to be shunned. 

On terms of the closest intimacy, and with his hut adjoining that of myfriend Captain Duke, lived Shulitea[4] (or King George, as he styledhimself), a chief of great power, who controlled the whole of thedistrict where we were. We all felt grateful to him for hismanifestations of friendship, and at the same time were conscious ofenjoying a greater degree of security by his proximity. He was the firstchief who offered protection to "the white people, " and he has never beenknown to have broken his engagement. An unexpected and remarkableinstance of his adherence to their interests, in spite of temptation, took place a few years since, which I deem worthy of relation here. 

The ship Brompton, in endeavouring to work out of the bay, by someaccident got on shore, and finally became a complete wreck. This finevessel, with a valuable cargo on board, lay helpless on the beach, andthe crew and passengers expected nothing less than plunder anddestruction. The natives from the interior, hearing of the circumstance, hastened down in vast numbers to participate in the general pillage. ButKing George summoned all his warriors to his aid, and with this partyplaced himself between the wreck and those who came to plunder it. I wasinformed by several who were present at the time, that, after declaringthat "not an article should be taken till himself and all his party weredestroyed, " he advanced, and thus explained his reasons for protectingthe strangers and their property:--

"You" (said King George) "come from the interior; all of you think onlyof what you can get, without considering the consequences, which, indeed, are of little import to you, living, as you do, out of reach of thereproaches and vengeance of the white men. But look how differently I amsituated. I live on the beach; this Bay is my residence; I invite thewhite men to come and trade here under the promise of my protection; theycome; several years of profitable trading have passed between us. KingGeorge, they say, is a good man; now an accident has befallen one oftheir ships in my territory, what must King George do? Why, he _must_assist them; which he _will_ do, and defend them against everyone whoshall attempt to injure them. " In consequence of this speech, and hisexertions, not a thing was taken from the wreck by the savages who hadcollected for that purpose. 

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 4: The chief referred to by Mr. Earle as Shulitea, or KingGeorge, was a noted Bay of Islands chief named Whareumu. He was killed ina fight with the Hokianga tribes, in March, 1828. (See appendix. )]

CHAPTER XIII. 

MAORI NON-PROGRESSIVENESS. 

This anecdote proves that King George and his people possessed feelingsof honour and generosity, which, if properly cultivated, might lead tothe most happy results. From the length of time these people have beenknown to the Europeans, it might naturally be expected that great changeswould have taken place in their habits, manners, arts, and manufactures;but this is not the case. Their huts are of the same diminutiveproportions as described by Captain Cook; their clothing and mats, theircanoes and paddles, are precisely the same as when that navigatordescribed them. When they can obtain English tools, they use them inpreference to their own; still their work is not better done. The onlymaterial change that has taken place is in their mode of warfare. 

The moment the New Zealanders became acquainted with the nature offirearms, their minds were directed but to one point, namely, to becomepossessed of them. After many ingenious and treacherous attempts toobtain these oft-coveted treasures, and which, for the most part, endedin their defeat, they had recourse to industry, and determined to createcommodities which they might fairly barter for these envied muskets. Potatoes were planted, hogs were reared, and flax prepared, not for theirown use or comfort, but to exchange with the Europeans for firearms. Their plans succeeded; and they have now fairly possessed themselves ofthose weapons, which at first made us so formidable in their eyes; and asthey are in constant want of fresh supplies of ammunition, I feelconvinced it will always be their wish to be on friendly terms with us, for the purpose of procuring these desirable stores. I have not heard ofa single instance in which they have turned these arms against us, thoughthey are often grossly insulted. 

In their combats with each other, firearms are used with dreadful effect. The whole soul of a New Zealander seems absorbed in the thoughts of war;every action of his life is influenced by it; and to possess weaponswhich give him such a decided superiority over those who have only theirnative implements of offence, he will sacrifice everything. The valueattached by them to muskets, and their ceaseless desire to possess them, will prove a sufficient security to foreigners who enter their harbours, or remain on their coasts; as I know, from experience, that the NewZealanders will rather put up with injuries than run the risk ofoffending those who manufacture and barter with them such inestimablecommodities. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

A MISSION SETTLEMENT. 

A few days after my arrival in the Bay, I crossed to the opposite side, to visit the Church missionary settlement, and to deliver a letter ofintroduction I had to one of the members. Here, on a beautiful bank, witha delightful beach in front, and the entrance of the bay open to them, the clear and blue expanse of water speckled over with fertile islands, reside these comfortable teachers of the Gospel. The name they have giventhis spot is "Marsden Vale. " They very soon gave us to understand theydid not wish for our acquaintance, and their coldness and inhospitality(I must acknowledge) created in my mind a thorough dislike to them. Theobject of the mission, as it was first planned, might have been attained, and might have proved highly beneficial to the New Zealanders; but as itis now conducted, no good result can be expected from it. Any man ofcommon sense must agree with me, that a savage can receive but littlebenefit from having the abstruse points of the Gospel preached to him, ifhis mind is not prepared to receive them. This is the plan adopted here;and nothing will convince these enthusiasts that it is wrong, or inducethem to change it for one more agreeable to the dictates of reason. 

Upon inquiring who and what these men were, I found that the greater partof them were hardy mechanics (not well-educated clergymen), whom thebenevolent and well-intentioned people of England had sent out in orderto teach the natives the importance of _different trades_--a mostjudicious arrangement, and which ought to be the foundation of allmissions. What could be a more gratifying sight than groups of theseathletic savages, toiling at the anvil or the saw; erecting forthemselves substantial dwellings; thus leading them by degrees to knowand to appreciate the comforts resulting from peaceful, laborious, anduseful occupations? Then, while they felt sincere gratitude for servicesrendered them, at their leisure hours, and on certain days, _these_missionaries should attempt to expound to them, in as simple a manner aspossible, the nature of revealed religion!

In New Zealand, the "mechanic" missionary only carries on his trade tillhe has every comfort around him--his house finished, his garden fenced, and a strong stockade enclosing all, to keep off the "pagan" savages. This done, then commences the easy task of preaching. They collect a fewragged urchins of natives, whom they teach to read and write their ownlanguage--the English tongue being forbidden; and when these childrenreturn to their families, they are despised by them, as being effeminateand useless. 

I once saw a sturdy blacksmith in the prime of life, sitting in the midstof a group of savages, attempting to expound to them the mysteries of ourholy redemption--perplexing his own brains, as well as those of hisauditors, with the most incomprehensible and absurd opinions. How muchbetter would he have been employed in teaching them how to weld a pieceof iron, or to make a nail!

What causes much disapprobation here, is the contemptuous manner in whichthey treat their own countrymen, as they receive most of them on theoutside of their stockade fence. 

On our return from Marsden Vale, our savage friends laughed heartily atus. They had warned us of the reception we should meet with; and theirdelight at seeing us again formed a strange contrast to that of theirChristian teachers, whose inhospitable dwellings we determined never toreenter. 

CHAPTER XV. 

A VISIT FROM HONGI. 

A few days after my visit to the missionaries, while we were busilyemployed in constructing our huts, assisted by about fifty natives, on asudden a great commotion took place amongst them. Each left his work andran to his hut, and immediately returned armed with both musket andcartouch box: apparently all the arms in the village were mustered, andall seemed ready for immediate use. On inquiring into the cause of allthese war-like preparations, I was informed that Hongi and his chief menwere crossing the bay in several large war canoes; and though he wasconsidered as a friend and ally, yet, as he was a man of such desperateambition, and consummate cunning, it was considered necessary to receivehim under arms, which he might take either as a compliment, or as a proofof how well they were aware of the guest they were receiving. 

This man, Hongi, was a most extraordinary character, and a person I hadlong had a great curiosity to see, his daring and savage deeds havingoften been the subject of conversation in New South Wales. In his owncountry he was looked upon as invulnerable and invincible. In the year1821 he had visited England, during which he had been honoured by havinga personal interview with George the Fourth, and had received from HisMajesty several valuable presents; amongst others, were a superb suit ofchain armour, and a splendid double-barrelled gun. From possessing thesearms, so far superior to any of his neighbours, he looked upon himselfas impossible to be conquered, and commenced a career of warfare anddestruction on all his enemies, and nearly exterminated them. His friendscalled him "a god, " and his enemies feared him as "a devil. " Last year, Hongi made war upon, and totally annihilated, the tribe who had fifteenyears previously attacked and murdered the crew of the Boyd. He had longdetermined to take revenge for that treacherous action, as he alwaysstyled himself "the friend of the English. " After this, he removed hisresidence, and took possession of the conquered district. But in this hislast battle he had to fight without his invulnerable coat of mail, hisslaves having stolen it and gone over with it to the enemy. His peoplewere now confirmed in their superstition respecting its being proofagainst shot, by his having received during the combat a bullet in thebreast, from the effects of which he is fast sinking into the grave. Hiscompanions related the following extraordinary anecdote concerning himafter he received this wound, which proves his great presence of mind. 

His party were retreating, and the enemy were charging him vigorously;Hongi stood alone when he received the bullet; he did not fallimmediately, and the enemy were eagerly running up to despatch him, whenhe roused all his energies, and shouted aloud for the two hundred chiefs, who lay concealed, to rush forward and fall on. The foe, hearing this, paused, when about a dozen chiefs, and indeed, as Hongi well knew, allthat he had, suddenly made their appearance. This caused a panic; theyturned about; the pursued became the pursuers, and nearly the whole tribewere destroyed. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

INTERVIEW WITH THE GREAT MAORI CONQUEROR. 

He landed about a mile from the village, and we lost no time in procuringan interpreter, with whom we went instantly to pay our respects to thiscelebrated conqueror. 

We found him and his party; his slaves preparing their morning repast. The scene altogether was highly interesting. In a beautiful bay, surrounded by high rocks and overhanging trees, the chiefs sat in mutecontemplation, their arms piled up in regular order on the beach. Hongi, not only from his high rank (but in consequence of his wound beingtoboo'd, or rendered holy), sat apart from the rest. Their richlyornamented war canoes were drawn up on the strand; some of the slaveswere unlading stores, others were kindling fires. To me it almost seemedto realise some of the passages of Homer, where he describes the wandererUlysses and his gallant band of warriors. We approached the chief, andpaid our respects to him. He received us kindly, and with a dignifiedcomposure, as one accustomed to receive homage. His look was emaciated;but so mild was the expression of his features, that he would have beenthe last man I should have imagined accustomed to scenes of bloodshed andcruelty. But I soon remarked, that when he became animated inconversation, his eyes sparkled with fire, and their expression changed, demonstrating that it only required his passions to be roused to exhibithim under a very different aspect. His wife and daughter were permittedto sit close to him, to administer to his wants, no others being allowedso to do, on account of his taboo. 

He was arrayed in a new blanket, which completely enveloped his figure, leaving exposed his highly-tattooed face, and head profusely covered withlong, black, curling hair, adorned with a quantity of white feathers. Hewas altogether a very fine study; and, with his permission, I made asketch of him, and also one including the whole group. Finding we werenewcomers, he asked us a variety of questions, and, among others, ouropinion of his country. His remarks were judicious and sensible, and heseemed much pleased with our admiration of his territory. I produced abottle of wine that I had brought with me, and his wife supplied him witha few glasses, which seemed to revive and animate him. 

We were then invited to join him in a trip in one of his canoes, in whichwas placed a bed for him to recline upon; his wife seated herself closeto him, while his daughter, a very pretty, interesting girl about fifteenyears of age, took a paddle in her hand, which she used with the greatestdexterity. I took the liberty of presenting her with a bracelet, withwhich she seemed highly delighted; when Hongi, perceiving that I was in agiving mood, pointed to his beard, and asked me for a razor. Fortunately, I had put one in my pocket on setting out, and I now presented it tohim, by which gifts we continued on terms of great sociability andfriendship. After a pleasant cruise with this (to us) extraordinaryfamily, and contriving to make ourselves pretty well understood, wereturned about the close of the day, and landed at the bay. All thenatives were much delighted at our confidence in them, and we wereequally gratified by their hospitality. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

A MAORI WELCOME. 

I was much amused with the punctilios used in the visit of ceremony paidto King George. Hongi, accompanied by about a dozen of his chiefs, advanced towards our settlement, leaving their guns and hatchets behindthem; as they approached, all our tribe discharged their pieces in theair. When they met, all rubbed noses (a ceremony never to be dispensedwith on formal occasions). They were then conducted by King George to hishuts on the beach, and in the enclosure in front of them the warriorssquatted on the ground. Hongi, being tabooed, or under the immediateprotection of their Atua, or God, still sat apart. Then the mother ofGeorge, called Tururo, or the Queen, and who is regarded quite as a sybilby the whole tribe, approached Hongi with the greatest respect andcaution, and seated herself some paces from his feet. She then began, with a most melancholy cadence (her eyes streaming with tears and fixedupon the ground), the song of welcome. All their meetings of ceremony orfriendship begin with the shedding of copious floods of tears; and asHongi's visit was such an unhoped for and unexpected honour, so muchgreater in proportion was the necessity for their lamentations. Thiswoeful song lasted half an hour, and all the assembly were soon in tears;and though at first I was inclined to turn it into ridicule, I was soonin the same state myself. The pathetic strain, and the scene altogether, was most impressive. As the song proceeded, I was informed of the natureof the subject, which was a theme highly calculated to affect allpresent. She began by complimenting the wounded warrior, deploring theincurable state of his wound, and regretting that God was wanting him, and was about so soon to take him from his friends! Then she recountedsome of his most celebrated deeds of valour, naming and deploring thenumber of his friends who had fallen bravely in the wars, and lamentingthat the enemies who had killed them were still living! This part seemedto affect them powerfully; and when Tururo ceased her song (being quiteexhausted) they all rose, thus demonstrating their respect andapprobation. 

This was followed by a general attack upon the good things King Georgehad prepared for them. The slaves came flocking in, bearing baskets ofhot kumaras, potatoes, and fish. I observed their tears had not spoiledtheir appetites; they ate voraciously. After having done great honour tothe feast, they all started on their feet for a dance, which lasted along while, and with which they concluded the evening. 

The dances of all savage nations are beautiful, but those of the NewZealanders partake also of the horrible. The regularity of theirmovements is truly astonishing; and the song, which always accompanies adance, is most harmonious. They soon work themselves up to a pitch offrenzy; the distortions of their face and body are truly dreadful, andfill the mind with horror. Love and war are the subjects of their songsand dances; but the details of the latter passion are by far the mostpopular among them. I was astonished to find that their women mixed inthe dance indiscriminately with the men, and went through all thosehorrid gestures with seemingly as much pleasure as the warriorsthemselves. 

The next morning I was awakened, at daybreak, by the most dismal sounds Ihad ever heard. I started up, and found it proceeded from the tribesparting with each other. They had divided themselves into little parties, each forming a circle, and were crying most piteously, and cutting theirflesh as a cook would score pork for roasting. On such occasions each isarmed with a sharp shell, or, if he can possibly obtain so valuable aprize, a piece of a broken glass bottle. All were streaming with tearsand blood, while Hongi and his friends embarked in their large andrichly-ornamented canoes, and sailed from our beach. After his departure, I soon discovered that, notwithstanding their apparent affection, KingGeorge and his friends were most happy their visitors had left them; andthat it was more the dread of Hongi's power, than love for him, thatinduced them to treat him with such respect and homage. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR. 

I made several excursions into the interior, and each confirmed me in thegood opinion I had formed of the natives. I felt myself quite safeamongst them. There is a great peculiarity in rambling through thiscountry; namely, the total absence of quadrupeds. There are abundance ofbirds, which are so numerous at times as almost to darken the air--manyof them possessing very sweet notes; and wild ducks, teal, etc. , coverthe various streams. Wherever I went I did not discover any grass, almostevery part being covered either with fern or flax; the former yieldingthe natives their principal article of food, and the latter theirclothing. To this dearth of animals may be attributed the chief cause oftheir ferocity and propensity to cannibalism. 

In most uncivilised countries the natives use their arms against the wildanimals of the forest. The dangers and difficulties they encounter inovercoming them form a kind of prelude to war, and perfect them in theuse of their weapons. The rifle of the North American Indian would neverbe so much dreaded did he not depend upon its produce for hissubsistence. I have myself (during my travels through North America) hadmany opportunities of witnessing the certain aim they take both with thearrow and the bullet; while those in the southern parts of that vastcontinent, who depend on taking the wild cattle, acquire, by constantpractice, an equal dexterity with the _lassoo_, which those who have notwitnessed it could scarcely imagine possible. The New Zealander, whilehandling a musket, is quite in a state of trepidation; and though it ishis darling weapon he seems always afraid of it, and is never sure of hisaim till he is quite close to his object. I have mentioned this fact toseveral Europeans who had accompanied various tribes to battle, and theyall informed me they made a sad bungling use of the musket; their aimwould be surer if they had large and ferocious animals to hunt or contendwith. There is another circumstance that operates against their acquiringskill in the use of the gun: they are so fond of cleaning, scrubbing, andtaking them to pieces, that in a short time the locks become loose, thescrews are injured, and they are soon rendered entirely useless, to thegreat surprise and dismay of their owners, who are constantly pesteringthe Europeans by bringing them _sick_ muskets (as they call them) to lookat, and put to rights, and are quite surprised that we "cannot make themwell again. " They cannot be made to comprehend that every white man doesnot know how to make a musket, or, at least, to repair it. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

ENTERTAINED BY MAORI WOMEN. 

On the 24th November we took our departure from the bay, as we had toreturn to Hokianga, where we had left our brig; and it was only under apromise of making a speedy return, and remaining longer with them, thatour savage friends would suffer us to leave them. We expected to reachthe Kerikeri River before night; but in this we were disappointed. It atlength became quite dark; and the ebb tide making against us, renderedfurther advance impossible. We had to seek some place of shelter for thenight, and not a hut was visible. While we were debating on what was bestto be done, we observed a light from the shore, and made for it; but, itbeing low water, our boat stuck fast in the slime long before we reachedthe banks; we were, consequently, obliged to wade knee-deep through theslippery mud. We soon discovered a party of women sitting round a firemade in the midst of the swamp. They had come here for the purpose ofprocuring shell-fish; and as they are never very fastidious about shelteror dry beds, they had determined (according to their usual custom) topass the night where they had been occupied during the day. This sort ofbivouac I found excessively uncomfortable. The moment we were seated thewater began to ooze out an inch or two all round us. We sought in vainfor a dry place, for we were enveloped in darkness, and surrounded byrushes and flags six or seven feet high; but, being very much fatigued, we slept, notwithstanding the misery of a wet bed, with a cloud of fogfor curtains. I did not wake till one of the women gave me a good shake, and informed me that the day was well up. They had prepared us abreakfast of hot shell-fish, which they had caught the preceding day, andthey all seemed delighted by our eating heartily of them. As we had somebiscuits in our boat, we sent for them, and gave our "fair founders ofthe feast" a share; and we were all very sociable and merry. When we leftthem, as it was again low water, the women carried us to our boat, andtook their leave of us amidst peals of laughter. This was another proofto me that the English are quite safe, though travelling unguarded, amongst these people. 

CHAPTER XX. 

LOADING SPARS AT HOKIANGA. 

About nine the next morning we reached the Kerikeri River; and, it beingSunday, the members of the mission met us on landing, and used all theirendeavours to prevent our travelling on that day; but, independent of theurgent necessity of our reaching Hokianga, the captain of our vessel, whowas with us, being particularly anxious to return on board, we continuedour journey, and at night came to a bivouac in a dense wood, so that wenow had the luxury of stretching our weary limbs on dry ground. The nextday, as we journeyed towards the river, we fell in with all our oldfriends, who inquired into the particulars of our adventures, and seemedhighly delighted at our return. 

We found "all right" on board the brig; but as she was chartered to go toTongataboo I and my friend Shand determined to remain at New Zealand tillher return. Our principal difficulty seemed to be which side of theisland we should make choice of for a dwelling-place. When it becameknown to the natives that we intended to remain with them, several chiefscame and offered us their protection; and each would have built us ahouse, but we preferred making our sojourn at the Bay of Islands. We wereoften at a loss how to evade the kind importunities of our savage hostswithout giving them offence. "Is not our country as good astheirs?"--"Are you not as safe amongst us?"--"Are we not as willing andas capable of protecting you as Shulitea?" These were the arguments theyused; and, finally, we were obliged to inform them that we had a friendand countryman (Captain Duke) settled on the other side, who waspreparing a house for our reception. On being informed of thiscircumstance they consented to part with us, though evidently with greatreluctance. 

While we lay here the ship Harmony, of London, Captain Middleton, arrivedfrom Sydney for a cargo of spars. So large a vessel entering the port putthe whole district into commotion; and when the chiefs understood thenature of her wants, and had seen the fine double-barrelled guns andstore of powder to be given as payment for the wished-for freight, theyhastened to the woods, and the axe was soon laid to the roots of thetrees. I saw them pursuing their laborious employ with alacrity. In a fewdays a sufficient number of fine logs came floating down the river toload the ship, and they were all cleared in a workmanlike manner, readyto stow away. The chief things to induce these people to work arefirearms and powder; these are two stimulants to their industry whichnever fail. 

CHAPTER XXI. 

DEATH OF A GREAT CHIEF. 

A few days after our return to Hokianga we received intelligence that ARowa, the father of Mooetara, and the eldest chief in the district, wasdead. These deaths, when they occur among men of rank, are generallyaccompanied by some horrible scenes of butchery among their slaves--acommon custom among all savages, but practised here (I was informed) withpeculiar cruelty. We went on shore to witness the ceremony of A Rowa'slying in state, hoping at the same time that our presence might inducethem to dispense with some of those barbarous cruelties which generallyaccompany their funeral rites. We had, indeed, every reason to think wehad conjectured rightly, for nothing of the kind took place; which wasconsidered by all as a circumstance somewhat remarkable. A greatconcourse of savages had assembled all round the village of the deceasedchief, and there was a tremendous firing of muskets, but no particularmarks of grief. I spoke to Mooetara, and requested, as a favour, if itwere not breaking through their established rules, that he would conductme to the body of his father. He accordingly led me to the outside of thevillage; and under a rude hut (constructed for the purpose) lay the bodyof the deceased chief, closely covered up with mats, leaving only part ofthe face and head exposed; in his hair was stuck a profusion of longwhite feathers, by way of ornament. Two women (whom I understood were hiswives) sat close to the corpse; they were painted all over with redochre, and seemed to perform the parts of chief mourners. These kept up alow moaning noise, and occasionally whisked off the flies from the faceof the deceased. The women, the corpse, the hut, and the ground for somespace round them, were all strictly tapued. Some bundles of fish, andsome calabashes filled with oil, were left close by the body, intendedfor his consumption during his passage to the next world. 

I imagine that one reason of no outrage having been committed during thissolemn occasion was our brig being on the point of sailing, and previousto her departure a great deal of traffic was expected to be carried onwith the natives, for there was still a considerable quantity of musketsundisposed of; and I think, in this instance, avarice overcame filialaffection--the minds of the chief's family being so intent upon obtaininggood bargains, that they had not time to sit and mourn over theirdeparted parent, nor to work themselves up into a paroxysm of passionsufficiently violent to cause them to murder their slaves. This affordedme a convincing proof that as soon as they are occupied by commerce, orthe useful arts, their barbarous rites will gradually be discontinued, and will speedily cease altogether. 

Our brig having sailed, we were again alone with these wild yetinteresting people. We expected our stay might be about six months, andhad provided a stock-in-trade, consisting of a barrel of powder, half adozen muskets, some fish-hooks, and a quantity of tobacco. Everything wepossessed we delivered into the hands of the natives, who accounted tous for the stock thus entrusted to their management with the mostscrupulous exactness. Nothing can be fairer than their mode of barteringwith the Europeans; the prices are fixed; ten large hogs, or 120 basketsof potatoes (about a ton and a-half), are given for a musket; for smallarticles, such as fish, Indian corn, or fruits, the ready money arefish-hooks and tobacco. As we were now about to become inhabitants of NewZealand, it became necessary that we should be well acquainted with theparticulars of their methods of "doing business, " and that we shouldapply ourselves diligently to the study of the language, which weacquired much more readily than I had anticipated. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

BRUTAL MURDER OF A WIFE. 

A few days after the departure of the brig I witnessed a specimen oftheir summary method of executing justice. A chief, resident in thevillage, had proof of the infidelity of one of his wives; and, beingperfectly sure of her guilt, he took his patoo-patoo (or stone hatchet)and proceeded to his hut, where this wretched woman was employed inhousehold affairs. Without mentioning the cause of his suspicion, or onceupbraiding her, he deliberately aimed a blow at her head, which killedher on the spot; and, as she was a slave, he dragged the body to theoutside of the village, and there left it to be devoured by the dogs. Theaccount of this transaction was soon brought to us, and we proceeded tothe place to request permission to bury the body of the murdered woman, which was immediately granted. Accordingly, we procured a couple ofslaves, who assisted us to carry the corpse down to the beach, where weinterred it in the most decent manner we could. 

This was the second murder I was very nearly a witness to since myarrival; and the indifference with which each had been spoken of inducedme to believe that such barbarities were events of frequent occurrence;yet the manners of all seemed kind and gentle towards each other; butinfidelity in a wife is never forgiven here; and, in general, if thelover can be taken, he also is sacrificed along with the adulteress. Truth obliges me to confess that, notwithstanding these horrors staringthem in the face, they will, if opportunity offers, indulge in anintrigue. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

ANOTHER JOURNEY TO BAY OF ISLANDS. 

As there were two roads across to the Bay of Islands, and I was anxiousto see as much of the country as possible, I determined that my secondjourney should be by the longest route. I set off, accompanied only by anative boy to carry a small portmanteau and to serve me as a guide. As, on my former journey, we travelled many miles through thick tangledforests, fatiguing beyond description. In the midst of our toilsomeprogress, night frequently overtook us; then, by means of myfowling-piece, I procured a light, the boy made a fire, and we passed thenight in this vast wilderness, far from the habitation of any humanbeing! At daybreak we resumed our journey, and at length (about teno'clock) we emerged from the wood, and entered upon extensive plains. These were not naked deserts, similar to the ones I had passed through onmy former route, but were diversified with bush and brake, with a numberof small villages scattered in various directions. At mid-day we arrivedat what in New Zealand is considered a town of great size and importance, called Ty-a-my. It is situated on the sides of a beautiful hill, the topsurmounted by a pa, in the midst of a lonely and extensive plain, coveredwith plantations of Indian corn, Kumara and potatoes. This is theprincipal inland settlement, and, in point of quiet beauty andfertility, it equalled any place I had ever seen in the various countriesI have visited. Its situation brought forcibly to my remembrance thescenery around Canterbury. 

We found the village totally deserted, all the inhabitants being employedin their various plantations; they shouted to us as we passed, thusbidding us welcome, but did not leave their occupations to receive us. Toview the cultivated parts of this country from an eminence a person mighteasily imagine himself in a civilised land; for miles around the villageof Ty-a-my nothing but beautiful green fields present themselves to theeye. The exact rows in which they plant their Indian corn would do creditto a first-rate English farmer, and the way in which they prepare thesoil is admirable. The greatest deficiency which I observed in thecountry around me was the total absence of fences; and this defectoccasions the natives a great deal of trouble, which might very easily beavoided. Hogs are the principal part of their wealth, with which, at alltimes, they can traffic with vessels touching at their ports. Theseanimals, consequently, are of the utmost importance to them; but duringthe growth of their crops, the constant watching the hogs require to keepthem out of the plantations consumes more time than would effectuallyfence in their whole country; but I have no doubt, as they already beginto follow our advice and adopt our plans, they will soon see the utilityof fencing in their land. I have at various times held many conversationswith different chiefs on this subject, all of whom have acknowledged thepropriety of so doing. 

A few miles after leaving this beautiful village we came to a spotcovered with heaps of cinders and hillocks of volcanic matter. I foundall these hillocks small craters, but none of them, burning; and formiles our road lay through ashes and lava. These fires must have beenextinguished many ages since, as there is not the slightest traditionamong any of the natives of their ever having been burning. 

After passing over this lava, our journey lay through a very swampycountry, intersected with streams. I got completely wearied withstripping to wade through them, so that at length I plunged in clothesand all. At the close of a most fatiguing day's march, we arrived insight of the bay, having travelled over an extent of about fifty milessince the morning! No canoe being in sight, and we being too distant tomake signals to our brig, we had to pass another night in bivouac on apart of the beach called Waitangi; and as it did not rain we slept prettycomfortably. The next morning I procured a canoe, and went on board ourvessel. 

The day following the brig took her final departure from New Zealand, andwe bade farewell to Captain Kent. We now formally placed ourselves underthe protection of King George, who seemed highly pleased with his charge;and in a few days three good houses were ready for our reception--one forourselves, a second for our stores, and a third for our servants. But ourpleasant prospects were soon obscured by a circumstance totallyunexpected, which placed us in a most critical situation, and which wehad every reason to fear would lead to our total destruction. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

VISIT OF A WAR PARTY. 

I was roused one morning at daybreak by my servant running in with theintelligence that a great number of war canoes were crossing the bay. AsKing George had told us but the evening before that he expected a visitfrom Ta-ri-ah, a chief of the tribe called Ngapuhis, whose territory layon the opposite side of the bay, and given us to understand that Ta-ri-ahwas a man not to be trusted, and therefore feared some mischief mighthappen if he really came, the sight of these war canoes naturally causedus considerable alarm, and we sincerely wished that the visit was over. 

We dressed ourselves with the utmost expedition, and walked down to thebeach. The landing of these warriors was conducted with a considerabledegree of order, and could I have divested myself of all ideas of dangerI should have admired the sight excessively. All our New Zealandfriends--the tribe of Shulitea--were stripped naked, their bodies wereoiled, and all were completely armed; their muskets were loaded, theircartouch boxes were fastened round their waists, and their patoo-patooswere fixed to their wrists. Their hair was tied up in a tight knot at thetop of their heads, beautifully ornamented with feathers of thealbatross. As the opposite party landed, ours all crouched on the ground, their eyes fixed on their visitors, and perfectly silent. When thedebarkation was completed I observed the chief, Ta-ri-ah, put himself attheir head, and march towards us with his party formed closely andcompactly, and armed with muskets and paddles. When they came very nearthey suddenly stopped. Our party continued still mute, with theirfirelocks poised ready for use. For the space of a few minutes all wasstill, each party glaring fiercely on the other; and they certainlyformed one of the most beautiful and extraordinary pictures I had everbeheld. The foreground was formed by a line of naked savages, eachresting on one knee, with musket advanced, their gaze fixed on theopposite party, their fine, broad, muscular backs contrasting with thedark foliage in front, and catching the gleam of the rising sun. Thestrangers were clothed in the most grotesque manner imaginable--somearmed, some naked, some with long beards, others were painted all overwith red ochre; every part of each figure was quite still, except therolling and glaring of their eyes on their opponents. The background wasformed by the beach, and a number of their beautiful war canoes dancingon the waves; while, in the distance, the mountains on the opposite sideof the bay were just tinged with the varied and beautiful colours of thesun, then rising in splendour from behind them. 

The stillness of this extraordinary scene did not last long. The Ngapuhiscommenced a noisy and discordant song and dance, yelling, jumping, andmaking the most hideous faces. This was soon answered by a loud shoutfrom our party, who endeavoured to outdo the Ngapuhis in making horribledistortions of their countenances; then succeeded another dance from ourvisitors, after which our friends made a rush, and in a sort of roughjoke set them running. Then all joined in a pell-mell sort of encounter, in which numerous hard blows were given and received; then all the partyfired their pieces in the air, and the ceremony of landing was thusdeemed completed. They then approached each other, and began rubbingnoses; and those who were particular friends cried and lamented over eachother. 

The slaves now commenced the labour of making fires to cook the morningmeal, while the chiefs, squatting down, formed a ring, or, rather, anoblong circle, on the ground; then one at a time rose up, and made longspeeches, which they did in a manner peculiar to themselves. The speaker, during his harangue, keeps running backwards and forwards within theoblong space, using the most violent but appropriate gesticulation; soexpressive, indeed, of the subject on which he is speaking, that aspectator who does not understand their language can form a tolerableidea as to what the affair is then under debate. The orator is neverinterrupted in his speech; but, when he finishes and sits down, anotherimmediately rises up and takes his place, so that all who choose have anopportunity of delivering their sentiments, after which the assemblybreaks up. 

Though the meeting of these hostile tribes had thus ended more amicablythan King George and his party could have expected, it was easily to beperceived that the Ngapuhis were determined on executing some atrocity ordepredations before their return; they accordingly pretended to recollectsome old offence committed by the English settlers at the other end ofthe beach. They proceeded thither, and first attacked and broke open thehouse of a blacksmith, and carried off every article it contained. Theythen marched to the residence of an English captain (who was in England), and plundered it of everything that could be taken away, and afterwardssent word they intended to return to our end of the beach. Our fears weregreatly increased by finding that our friends were not sufficientlystrong to protect us from the superior force of the Ngapuhis, and ourchief, George, being himself (we supposed) conscious of his inability, had left us to depend upon our own resources. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

BURNED OUT OF HOUSE AND HOME. 

We now called a council of war of all the Europeans settled here; and itwas unanimously resolved that we should protect and defend our houses andproperty, and fortify our position in the best way we could. Captain Dukehad in his possession four twelve-pounders, and these we brought in frontof the enclosure in which our huts were situated, and were all entirelyemployed in loading them with round and grape shot, and had made them allready for action, when, to our consternation and dismay, we found we hada new and totally unexpected enemy to contend with. By some accident oneof our houses was in flames. Our situation was now perilous in theextreme. The buildings, the work of English carpenters, were constructedof dry rushes and well-seasoned wood, and this was one of a veryrespectable size, and we had hoped, in a very few days, would be finishedfit for our removing into. 

For some seconds we stood in mute amazement, not knowing to which pointto direct our energies. As the cry of "fire" was raised, groups ofnatives came rushing from all directions upon our devoted settlement, stripping off their clothes, and yelling in the most discordant pitch ofvoice. I entered the house, and brought out one of my trunks, but onattempting to return a second time I found it filled with naked savages, tearing everything to pieces, and carrying away whatever they could laytheir hands upon. The fierce raging of the flames, the heat from thefire, the yells of the men, and the shrill cries of the women, formed, altogether, a horrible combination; added to all this was themortification of seeing all our property carried off in differentdirections, without the least possibility of our preventing it. The tribeof the Ngapuhis (who, when the fire began, were at the other end of thebeach) left their operations in that quarter and poured down upon us toshare in the general plunder. Never shall I forget the countenance of thechief, as he rushed forward at the head of his destroying crew! He wascalled "The Giant, " and he was well worthy of the name, being the tallestand largest man I had ever seen; he had an immense bushy black beard, andgrinned exultingly when he saw the work of destruction proceeding withsuch rapidity, and kept shouting loudly to his party to excite them tocarry off all they could. 

A cask containing seventy gallons of rum now caught fire and blew up witha terrible explosion; and, the wind freshening considerably, huge volumesof smoke and flame burst out in every direction. Two of our houses wereso completely enveloped that we had given up all hopes of saving them. The third, which was a beautifully carved tapued one, some littledistance from the others, and which we had converted into a store andmagazine, was now the only object of our solicitude and terror. For, besides the valuable property of various kinds which were depositedwithin it, it contained several barrels of gunpowder! It was in vain weattempted to warn the frantic natives to retire from the vicinity of thisdanger. At length we persuaded about a dozen of the most rational tolisten while we explained to them the cause of our alarm; and theyimmediately ascended to the roof, where, with the utmost intrepidity andcoolness, they kept pouring water over the thatch, thus lessening theprobability of an immediate explosion. About this time we noticed thereappearance of King George, which circumstance rekindled our hopes. Hewas armed with a thick stick, which he laid heavily on the backs of suchof his subjects as were running away with our property, thus forcing themto relinquish their prizes, and to lay them down before his own mansion, where all was safe. By this means a great deal was recollected. The firewas now nearly extinguished; but our two really tolerably good houseswere reduced to a heap of smoking ruins, and the greater part of whatbelonged to us was taken away by the Ngapuhis. 

This calamity had made us acquainted with another of their barbarouscustoms, which is, whenever a misfortune happens to a community, or anindividual, every person, even the friends of his own tribe, fall uponand strip him of all he has remaining. As an unfortunate fish, whenstruck by a harpoon, is instantly surrounded and devoured by hiscompanions, so in New Zealand, when a chief is killed, his former friendsplunder his widow and children; and they, in revenge, ill-use and evenmurder their slaves--thus one misfortune gives birth to variouscruelties. During the fire, our allies proved themselves the most adroitand active thieves imaginable, though previously to that event we hadnever lost an article, although everything we possessed was open to them. 

When we questioned them about our property, they frankly told us where itwas; and, after some difficulty in settling the amount of its ransom, wegot most of our things back again, with the exception of such as had beencarried off by the Ngapuhis. 

Upon the cruelty of this custom I shall make no comments. Probably Ishould have remained in ignorance of this savage law, had I not had themisfortune to become its victim. 

By redeeming from the natives what they had purloined from the fire, wehad restored to us some of our boxes, desks, and clothes; but all ourlittle comforts towards housekeeping were irretrievably lost. When thefire was over we received a visit from one of the missionaries, who madeus a cold offer of assistance. We accepted a little tea, sugar and somefew articles of crockery from them; but, although they knew we stoodthere houseless, amongst a horde of savages, they never offered us theshelter of their roofs. I am very sure that had the calamity befallenthem, we should immediately have offered our huts, and shared with themeverything we possessed. Here was an opportunity of practically showingthe "pagans" (as they termed the New Zealanders) the great Christiandoctrine of "doing to others as we would they should do unto us. " I mustacknowledge I was sometimes mortified at being obliged to sleep (three ofus huddled up close together) in a small New Zealand hut, filled withfilth and vermin of all kinds, while at only two miles' distance from usstood a neat village, abounding in every comfort that a bountiful Britishpublic could provide; and we, members of that community, and, indeed, partly contributors to the funds for its support. 

The high state of excitement into which the savages had been thrown bythe late conflagration gradually subsided, and as we had escaped thedreaded calamity of our magazine blowing up, we began to look withcalmness on our desolate condition, and draw comfort from thinking howmuch worse we might have been circumstanced than we then were. I hope ourdistress may prove a benefit to future sojourners in this country, byshowing them the great importance of forming a proper magazine forpowder. The agonies I suffered in contemplating the destruction which sixbarrels of powder, each of an hundredweight, would cause amongst a mob ofseveral hundred naked savages, it is impossible to imagine!

King George, as well as all his people, were most anxious to build us anew habitation entirely themselves. They requested us to give them thedimensions of the various dwellings, and said we should have no furthertrouble about them. A party accordingly proceeded to the bush to collectmaterials. They first formed the skeleton of a cottage containing threerooms, with slight sticks, firmly tied together with strips of flax. While this was in progress, another party was collecting rushes (whichgrow plentifully in the neighbourhood, called Ra-poo). These they spreadin the sun for twenty-four hours, when they considered them sufficientlydry. They then thatched every part of the house, which for neatness andstrength was equal to anything I had ever seen. The doors and windows weemployed our carpenter to make, these being luxuries quite beyond thecomprehension of the natives. We were thus tolerably well lodged again;and our time passed on tranquilly, almost every day developing some freshtrait of character amongst these children of nature. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

A HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. 

I went to reside for a short time at a village about half a mile distant, where there was a pretty good house vacant. It was called Ma-to-we, andbelonged to a chief named Atoi, a relation of George's, but a muchyounger man. His power was not so great, and he was every way subject tothe authority of the tribe under whose protection I had placed myself. One morning, at daybreak, we were roused by the hasty approach of KingGeorge and all his warriors towards Ma-to-we. All were fully equipped forwar, and each countenance looked fierce and wild. Our late misfortuneshaving rendered us more than usually anxious, this hostile appearancegave us considerable alarm. We left our house to inquire the reasonthereof, and saw George and his followers enter the village, pull downseveral fences, fire a few muskets in the air, dance a most hideous danceof defiance, and then depart; but not one word of explanation could weobtain from him. In the course of the morning, however, the womenacquainted us with the cause of this mysterious proceeding, whichdetermined me to remove my things back again to George's village ofKororarika as soon as possible. 

The affair was simply this: Atoi had two wives. During the time of ourvisit to his village, he was absent, and had entrusted these women to thecare of his brother; but he, instead of being faithful to the trustreposed in him, had actually seduced one of them. This circumstance cameto the knowledge of George, and he, feeling for the honour of his absentfriend, immediately proceeded to the village, and thus gave the partieswarning that he was fully aware of the nature of their proceedings. Hehad also dispatched a messenger to Atoi, to inform him of his disgrace, and to request his immediate return. In the course of the day it wasexpected he would arrive, and bring with him a strong party of friends, all burning with revenge, and eager to punish his brother for hisunnatural perfidy. It was thought that unless George interfered, muchbloodshed might ensue; and it may readily be imagined how anxious we werethat this dreaded meeting should be over; yet I (for one) had determinedthat I would be a witness of it. Therefore, when word was brought to methat Atoi was crossing the bay, I hastened down to the beach. There Ifound all parties assembled from both villages. George and his followers, who were to act as mediators, sat immediately in front of the place oflanding; behind them were Atoi's brother and all his partizans; and inthe rear were all the women and children, with about a dozen white facesscattered amongst them. The scene was picturesque and exceedinglyinteresting. It was near the close of a lovely summer's day--the sun, fast sinking towards the horizon, threw a warm and mellow glow over thewide expanse of the far-spreading bay, whose smooth waters were onlydisturbed by the approaching canoe cutting its foamy way. It was crowdedwith naked warriors, urging their rapid course towards the shore; and weheard the loud and furious song of the chief, animating his friends toexertion; we saw his frantic gestures, as he stood in the centre of hiscanoe, brandishing his weapons. As they came near the place of landing, George ran into the stream, and as the canoe touched the shore, attackedAtoi, but in a playful manner, splashing water over him. Thus irritated, Atoi jumped on land, and, with a double-barrelled musket in his hand, rantowards his brother, and doubtless would have killed him on the spot, hadhe not been prevented. I now saw the advantage of George and his partybeing present. He and three of his subjects seized upon Atoi, and triedto wrest the weapon from his hands, which if they had been able toeffect, a mortal combat could not take place, such being the custom here. Atoi was a very powerful man of about thirty, and those who attacked himhad a most difficult task; twice he broke from them; and I then watchedthe countenance of his brother, which was perfectly cool and collected, though the firelock was in readiness, and the finger on the trigger, which might despatch him instantly. All parties sat perfectly quietduring the desperate struggle; one of the barrels of Atoi's piece wentoff, and the contents flew amongst us, without, however, doing anymaterial injury; and, finally, the musket was wrested out of his hands. He then sat still for about twenty minutes, to recover his breath, whenhe seized a club and rushed upon his brother (for mortal weapons were nowprohibited). The brother started up, armed in the same manner; some heavyblows passed between them; when, having thrown aside their clubs, theygrappled each other firmly, and a dreadful struggle ensued. As they wereboth completely naked, their hair was the only thing to take hold by; butbeing long, thick, and strong, it afforded a firm grasp, and theycommitted desperate havoc on each other's persons. At this period of thefight their poor old mother, who was quite blind, came forward to try andseparate the combatants; the sister and younger brothers now followed herexample; and, finally, the fair and frail cause of all this commotion. 

The brothers, having completely exhausted their strength, were easilyseparated; and as their friends had carefully removed all weapons out oftheir reach, they of course were deprived of the means of injuring eachother. The members of Atoi's family, together with a few friends, now satdown in a circle, to converse and consult on the affair. Atoi's wifetotally denied the charge, and protested her innocence, and manycircumstances were brought forward to corroborate her statements. Thehusband at length was satisfied, and all parties were reconciled. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

THE LAW OF RETALIATION. 

This affair was scarcely terminated, when we found that another of astill more serious nature was likely to arise from it and would threatenthe peace of both villages. When King George sent his messenger to informAtoi of the infidelity of his wife, the infuriated husband assaulted theman, and it was rumoured that he had killed him. This was an offence notto be forgiven, and George was so exasperated by it that he vowed hewould exterminate the whole of Atoi's tribe. A native, however, arrivedwith the intelligence that the man was not dead, but only wounded. Thisdid not seem to allay George's feelings of resentment, and he instantlymade great preparations for war. When our anxiety was wound up to theutmost, we were greatly astonished to see Atoi and all his friendsapproach our settlement, totally unarmed. George went out to meet them, looking so full of rage that I thought Atoi stood but a slight chance forhis life. After a great deal of violent pantomimic action and grimace, the apology offered by Atoi was accepted, and the visit was concluded bya grand war-dance and sham fight performed in their best manner. KingGeorge, in the fulness of his heart at this complete restoration offriendship, gave a great feast of kumaras and fish, to which we addedsome tobacco; and the whole of the party seated themselves by each otherwith the utmost sociality--a convincing proof that animosity is not longan inmate of their breasts. 

I took every opportunity of inquiring into the nature of their laws andmode of government, and I found that, in general, their method ofredressing wrongs was very summary, and that their ideas of what wasstrictly just were, for the most part, simple and equitable. For anytheft, or offence of that sort, committed by one tribe on another, theparties are called to instant account. If one native takes from anotherany part of his possessions, the party injured has a right to retaliate, and the party retaliated upon must not make the slightest resistance. Weourselves experienced a proof of this. Some part of our property, whichwe supposed had been destroyed by our late fire, we had been told was tobe found in the hut of a neighbouring chief. We one day took advantage ofhis absence, searched the hut ourselves, and discovered our thingscarefully deposited therein. Thus assured of the fact, we laid ourcomplaint before King George, who, after hearing our story to the end, replied, "Well, my friends, you must go to the hut and take away all yourproperty, and whatever else you may find, which you may think sufficientpayment for the injury you have received. " We accordingly proceeded tothe chief's dwelling, whom we found standing at his door. We charged himwith having robbed us, and entered the house to seize our property. Heheld down his head, and seemed ashamed and overpowered at this discovery. He did not attempt to vindicate his conduct, but quietly allowed us notonly to take away all that had belonged to us, but likewise a musket anddouble-barrelled gun, which he concluded he had lost for ever. These wehad only taken away temporarily to deter him from theft in future, for afew days after we brought them back to him, to his infinite delight andastonishment. 

I was frequently shocked during my residence in this country by thenumber of accidents which continually happened to the natives fromgunpowder, and not even the saddest experience could render them morecareful. We were doubtful of the strength of a French fowling-piece wehad, so we loaded it to the muzzle and discharged it, in order to proveit. Some young chiefs, who saw us do this (approving of this method), assoon as they returned home loaded a musket in the same manner, and thendischarged it; but not managing the affair as we did--by means of astring fastened to the trigger--the piece burst, and mangled two of themdreadfully, and we got greatly blamed for showing them what wasconsidered so bad an example. 

A few months since a native came from the interior driving a quantity ofpigs to barter for powder; he obtained several pounds' weight, and setoff to return home. On his journey he passed the night in a hut, and forsafety put the bag of powder under his head as a pillow; and as a NewZealander always sleeps with a fire close to him, the consequence was, inthe course of the night the fire communicated to the powder, anddestroyed the man and the whole of his family, who were journeying withhim. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

A WAR EXPEDITION AND A CANNIBAL FEAST. 

Last year a chief, and cousin of King George, named Pomare, was defeatedand killed by the people of the Thames, and George was now resolved torevenge his death. This determination having become known, we had aconstant succession of visitors, and a considerable number of blows, scratches, and rubbing noses were the consequence. Our beach presented amost interesting and busy scene. A dozen superb war canoes were lyingready to convey the forces; and, considering their limited means, thesolidity of their structure and the carved work on them are surprising. None but men of rank are allowed to work upon them, and they labour likeslaves. Some canoes were to be lengthened; others patched; others werecondemned to be broken up, and the fragments taken to complete the newones. Every morning we were awakened by the sound of the hammer and saw, and they were much gratified by our walking down to their dockyard toobserve the progress they made, and by giving our opinions of their work. They thankfully received any hint we gave them as to better methods ofcompleting or proceeding with their operations. Here were carvers, painters, caulkers, and sailmakers, all working in their differentdepartments with great good humour and industry. Some of their vesselswere eighty feet long, and were entirely covered with beautifulcarving. Their form was light and delicate, and if their intentions werehostile towards us, they would be very formidable alongside any merchantman. If our Government should determine to colonise any part of NewZealand, they would find the natives hardy and willing assistants, andvery different from the natives of New South Wales. 

[Illustration: Maori War Expedition (With Mission boat accompanyingit. )]

As their canoes were ready for launching, they ran them off the beach, jumped into them, and scudded across the bay with an almost incredibleswiftness. When it is considered that in each canoe were seated eightystout young men, each with a large paddle in his hand propelling thevessel forward, the velocity with which she flew may be imagined! It wasin the midst of scenes like these that we were passing our time, and Ihad just become delighted with the appearance of innocence and industryso continually displayed by these people, when I was called upon towitness a sight which exhibited their character in its worst light, andconfirmed all my horrible suspicions regarding their alleged cannibalism. 

The New Zealanders have been long charged with cannibalism; but as noperson of importance or celebrity had actually been a witness to thedisgusting act, in pity to our nature such relations have beenuniversally rejected, and much has been written to prove thenon-existence of so hideous a propensity. It was my lot to behold it inall its horrors!

One morning, about eleven o'clock, after I had just returned from a longwalk, Captain Duke informed me he had heard, from very good authority(though the natives wished it to be kept a profound secret), that in theadjoining village a female slave, named Matowe, had been put to death, and that the people were at that very time preparing her flesh forcooking. At the same time he reminded me of a circumstance which hadtaken place the evening before. Atoi had been paying us a visit, and, when going away, he recognised a girl whom he said was a slave that hadrun away from him; he immediately seized hold of her, and gave her incharge to some of his people. The girl had been employed in carrying woodfor us; Atoi's laying claim to her had caused us no alarm for her life, and we had thought no more on the subject; but now, to my surprise andhorror, I heard this poor girl was the victim they were preparing for theoven! Captain Duke and myself were resolved to witness this dreadfulscene. We therefore kept our information as secret as possible, wellknowing that if we had manifested our wishes they would have denied thewhole affair. We set out, taking a circuitous route towards the village, and, being well acquainted with the road, we came upon them suddenly, andfound them in the midst of their abominable ceremonies. 

On a spot of rising ground, just outside the village, we saw a manpreparing a native oven, which is done in the following simple manner:--Ahole is made in the ground, and hot stones are put within it, and thenall is covered up close. As we approached, we saw evident signs of themurder which had been perpetrated; bloody mats were strewed around, and aboy was standing by them actually laughing: he put his finger to hishead, and then pointed towards a bush. I approached the bush, and therediscovered a human head. My feelings of horror may be imagined as Irecognised the features of the unfortunate girl I had seen forced fromour village the preceding evening!

We ran towards the fire, and there stood a man occupied in a way fewwould wish to see. He was preparing the four-quarters of a human body fora feast; the large bones, having been taken out, were thrown aside, andthe flesh being compressed, he was in the act of forcing it into theoven. While we stood transfixed by this terrible sight, a large dog, which lay before the fire, rose up, seized the bloody head, and walkedoff with it into the bushes, no doubt to hide it there for another meal!The man completed his task with the most perfect composure, telling us, at the same time, that the repast would not be ready for some hours!

Here stood Captain Duke and myself, both witnesses of a scene which manytravellers have related, and their relations have invariably been treatedwith contempt; indeed, the veracity of those who had the temerity torelate such incredible events has been everywhere questioned. In thisinstance it was no warrior's flesh to be eaten; there was no enemy'sblood to drink, in order to infuriate them. They had no revenge togratify; no plea could they make of their passions having been roused bybattle, nor the excuse that they eat their enemies to perfect theirtriumph. This was an action of unjustifiable cannibalism. Atoi, thechief, who had given orders for this cruel feast, had only the nightbefore sold us four pigs for a few pounds of powder; so he had not eventhe excuse of want of food. After Captain Duke and myself had consultedwith each other, we walked into the village, determining to charge Atoiwith his brutality. 

Atoi received us in his usual manner; and his handsome, open countenancecould not be imagined to belong to so savage a monster as he had provedhimself to be. I shuddered at beholding the unusual quantity of potatoeshis slaves were preparing to eat with this infernal banquet. We talkedcoolly with him on the subject, for, as we could not prevent what hadtaken place, we were resolved to learn, if possible, the wholeparticulars. Atoi at first tried to make us believe he knew nothing aboutit, and that it was only a meal for his slaves; but we had ascertained itwas for himself and his favourite companions. After various endeavours toconceal the fact, Atoi frankly owned that he was only waiting till thecooking was completed to partake of it. He added that, knowing the horrorwe Europeans held these feasts in, the natives were always most anxiousto conceal them from us, and he was very angry that it had come to ourknowledge; but, as he had acknowledged the fact, he had no objection totalk about it. He told us that human flesh required a greater number ofhours to cook than any other; that if not done enough it was very tough, but when sufficiently cooked it was as tender as paper. He held in hishand a piece of paper, which he tore in illustration of his remark. Hesaid the flesh then preparing would not be ready till next morning; butone of his sisters whispered in my ear that her brother was deceiving us, as they intended feasting at sunset. 

We inquired why and how he had murdered the poor girl. He replied thatrunning away from him to her own relations was her only crime. He thentook us outside his village, and showed us the post to which she had beentied, and laughed to think how he had cheated her: "For, " said he, "Itold her I only intended to give her a flogging; but I fired, and shother through the heart!" My blood ran cold at this relation, and I lookedwith feelings of horror at the savage while he related it. Shall I becredited when I again affirm that he was not only a handsome young man, but mild and genteel in his demeanour? He was a man we had admitted toour table, and was a general favourite with us all; and the poor victimto his bloody cruelty was a pretty girl of about sixteen years of age!

While listening to this frightful detail, we felt sick almost tofainting. We left Atoi, and again strolled towards the spot where thisdisgusting mess was cooking. Not a native was now near it: a hot, fetidsteam kept occasionally bursting from the smothered mass; and the samedog we had seen with the head now crept from beneath the bushes, andsneaked towards the village. To add to the gloominess of the whole, alarge hawk rose heavily from the very spot where the poor victim had beencut in pieces. My friend and I sat gazing on this melancholy place; itwas a lowering, gusty day, and the moaning of the wind through thebushes, as it swept round the hill on which we were, seemed in unisonwith our feelings. 

After some time spent in contemplating the miserable scene before us, during which we gave full vent to the most passionate exclamations ofdisgust, we determined to spoil this intended feast. This resolutionformed, we rose to execute it. I ran off to our beach, leaving Duke onguard, and, collecting all the white men I could, I informed them of whathad happened, and asked them if they would assist in destroying the ovenand burying the remains of the girl. They consented, and each havingprovided himself with a shovel or a pickaxe, we repaired in a body tothe spot. Atoi and his friends had by some means been informed of ourintention, and they came out to prevent it. He used various threats todeter us, and seemed highly indignant; but as none of his followersappeared willing to come to blows, and seemed ashamed that such atransaction should have been discovered by us, we were permitted by themto do as we chose. We accordingly dug a tolerably deep grave; then weresolutely attacked the oven. On removing the earth and leaves, theshocking spectacle was presented to our view--the four quarters of ahuman body half roasted. During our work clouds of steam enveloped us, and the disgust created by our task was almost overpowering. We collectedall the parts we could recognise; the heart was placed separately, wesupposed, as a savoury morsel for the chief himself. We placed the wholein the grave, which we filled up as well as we could, and then broke andscattered the oven. 

By this time the natives from both villages had assembled, and a scenesimilar to this was never before witnessed in New Zealand. Six unarmedmen, quite unprotected (for there was not a single vessel in the harbour, nor had there been for a month), had attacked and destroyed all thepreparations of the natives for what they consider a national feast; andthis was done in the presence of a great body of armed chiefs, who hadassembled to partake of it. After having finished this exploit, and ourpassion and disgust had somewhat subsided, I could not help feeling thatwe had acted very imprudently in thus tempting the fury of these savages, and interfering in an affair that certainly was no concern of ours; butas no harm accrued to any of our party, it plainly shows the influence"the white men" have already obtained over them; had the offence wecommitted been done by any hostile tribe, hundreds of lives would havebeen sacrificed. 

The next day our old friend King George paid us a long visit, and wetalked over the affair very calmly. He highly disapproved of our conduct. "In the first place, " said he, "you did a foolish thing, which might havecost you your lives; and yet did not accomplish your purpose after all, as you merely succeeded in burying the flesh near the spot on which youfound it. After you went away it was again taken up, and every bit waseaten"--a fact I afterwards ascertained by examining the grave andfinding it empty. King George further said: "It was an old custom, whichtheir fathers practised before them; and you had no right to interferewith their ceremonies. I myself, " added he, "have left off eating humanflesh, out of compliment to you white men; but you have no reason toexpect the same compliance from all the other chiefs. What punishmenthave you in England for thieves and runaways?" We answered, "After trial, flogging or hanging. " "Then, " he replied, "the only difference in ourlaws is, you flog and hang, but we shoot and eat. "

After thus reproving us, he became very communicative on the subject ofcannibalism. He said, he recollected the time prior to pigs and potatoesbeing introduced into the island (an epoch of great importance to the NewZealanders), and stated that he was born and reared in an inlanddistrict, and the only food they then had consisted of fern roots andkumara; fish they never saw, and the only flesh he then partook of washuman. But I will no longer dwell on this humiliating subject. Mostwhite men who have visited the island have been sceptical on this point;I myself was before I had "ocular proof. " Consequently I availed myselfof the first opportunity to convince myself of the fact. I have reflectedupon the subject, and am thoroughly satisfied that nothing will cure thenatives of this dreadful propensity but the introduction of manyvarieties of animals, both wild and tame, and all would be sure to thrivein so mild and fine a climate. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

SLAVERY AMONG THE MAORIS. 

The scene I have just described brings into consideration the subject ofslavery, as it now exists in New Zealand. That slavery should be thecustom of savage nations and cannibals, is not a cause of wonder: theyare the only class of human beings it ought to remain with. Here slaveryassumes its most hideous shape! Every one they can effect a seizure of inan enemy's country becomes the slave of the captors. Chiefs are nevermade prisoners; they either fight to the last, or are killed on the spot, and their heads are preserved (by a peculiar method) as trophies. Children are greatly prized: these they bring to their dwellings, andthey remain slaves for life. Upon the number of slaves a chief can musterhe takes his rank as a man of wealth and consequence in society; and theonly chance these wretched beings have of being released from theirmiseries, is their master getting into a rage, and murdering them withoutfurther ceremony. 

On entering a village, a stranger instantly discovers which portion ofits inhabitants are the slaves, though both the complexion and thedresses of all are alike. The free Zealander is a joyous, good-humouredlooking man, full of laughter and vivacity, and is chatteringincessantly; but the slaves have invariably a squalid, dejected look;they are never seen to smile, and appear literally half starved. Thebeauties characteristic of a New Zealander are his teeth and hair; thelatter, in particular, is his pride and study; but the slaves have theirheads half shorn. The male slave is not allowed to marry; and anyintercourse with a female, if discovered, is generally punished by death. Never was there a body of men so completely cut off from all society asthese poor slaves; they never can count, with certainty, on a singlemoment of life, as the savage caprice of their master may instantlydeprive them of it. If, by chance, a slave should belong to a kind andgood master, an accident happening to him, or any of his family, willprobably prove equally fatal to the slave, as some are generallysacrificed on the death of a chief. 

Thus these poor slaves are deprived of every hope and stimulus by whichall other classes and individuals are animated; no good conduct of theirstowards their master, no attachment to his person or family, no fidelityor long service can ensure kind treatment. If the slave effect his escapeto his own part of the country, he is there treated with contempt; andwhen he dies (if a natural death), his body is dragged to the outside ofthe village, there to be made sport of by the children, or to furnishfood for the dogs! but more frequently his fate is to receive a fatalblow in a fit of passion, and then be devoured by his brutal master! Eventhe female slaves who, if pretty, are frequently taken as wives by theirconquerors, have not a much greater chance of happiness, all beingdependent upon the caprice of their owners. 

When I can relate anything favourable to the missionaries, I invariablyintend to do so, which will account for the introduction of thefollowing: A few days since, I paid a visit to one of their settlements, and noticed a remarkably fine native woman attending as a servant. Shewas respectably dressed, and in every respect (except complexion) she wassimilar to a European. She spoke English fluently. Upon expressing myadmiration of her, I was informed that this woman had been a slave ofHongi's, and that about a year previous he had lost one of his sons, andhad determined to sacrifice this poor girl as an atonement. She wasactually bound for the purpose, and nothing but the strong interferenceof the whole of the missionary society here could have saved her life. They exerted themselves greatly, and preserved her; and she had proved afaithful and valuable servant. 

CHAPTER XXX. 

PIRATICAL SEIZURE OF A VESSEL. 

Before finally quitting the subject of slavery, I must give an account ofsome white men I saw in this state of degradation, and who belonged to achief who visited us some weeks since. In the beginning of 1827, theGovernment of New South Wales hired the brig Wellington to convey anumber of prisoners to Norfolk Island, most of whom were felons of theworst description: the greater part were under sentence of banishment forlife. These desperadoes amounted to seventy-four; by far too many for thesize of the brig, as those whose duty is was to guard them, and the crewof the vessel, were too few to keep them under subjection. When within afew days' sail of their destination, they rose on the guard, and, after adesperate struggle, made themselves masters of the vessel, which was avery fine one, and was well provided with arms and stores of every kind, amounting to a sufficiency to carry them to any part of the world theychose. But the machinations of the wicked rarely prosper, and this wasanother proof of the truth of the observation; for, after a stormy andviolent debate among themselves, they at length determined to run for theBay of Islands, and if any vessel more eligible was there, they were totake possession of her, and leave the Wellington behind, she having noregister. It is but justice to them to state that they behaved withhumanity to their captives, and no lives were lost: they appointedofficers amongst themselves, and, with the assistance of the deposedcaptain, made this port. On their arrival here, they found two Englishwhalers, the Sisters, Captain Duke, and the Harriet. The commanders, asis usual on these occasions, went immediately on board the newcomer. Captain Duke well knew the vessel, having seen her at Sydney; but, ofcourse, had no idea of what had happened. The pirates received them withgreat civility, and deceived them with a false description of theirvoyage--of being bound to a southern port with prisoners; and the twocaptains, not having the slightest suspicion of who their hosts reallywere, passed a very merry evening with these marauders. 

Soon, however, their bad management of the vessel, their want ofdiscipline, and the general confusion on board, roused a vague suspicionin the minds of the two captains that all was not "quite right" on boardthe Wellington. The real captain, too, had succeeded in conveying a noteto Duke, informing him of his situation, and claiming his assistance torecapture the brig, and entreating him to release them all fromcaptivity. 

This communication produced universal alarm, as both the whalers werequite unprovided for attack or defence, and all the missionarysettlements lay quite at the mercy of this band of pirates. Had thelatter acted with promptness and spirit, they might easily have madethemselves masters of the whole; but while they were arguing andhesitating where they would make their first attack, the whalers wereactively employed in getting their great guns out of the hold, and inpreparing their vessels for defence; so that, by the time the piratescame to the resolution to attack them, the whalers were in a goodposture for resistance, and finally became the assailants. Aided by theprompt assistance of the natives, the whole of these outlaws were takeninto custody, with the exception of six. The extreme interest the savagestook in capturing these deluded men was truly astonishing. When they weremade to understand that these were King George's (of England) slaves, whohad broken loose, they knew, from their own laws, that they ought to betaken, and they displayed a great deal of courage and address inapproaching and securing them. 

The pirates (having many passengers and others in their power) stipulatedthat they should be landed at Kororarika, unmolested by any of theEnglish. This was granted; but no sooner were they left by themselvesthan a party of natives came forward, seized and bound them, stripped offtheir clothes, and, after dressing themselves up in them, conducted theirprisoners on board the whalers; but notwithstanding the anxiety of thewhalers to secure the whole, and the activity of the natives, six of themfound means to elude the search, and here they now are. 

The day on which our houses were burned, these six landed in the train ofone of the chiefs; and I have since entertained a suspicion that it wastheir desire of revenge that occasioned the destruction of our propertyat the time the calamity happened. I chanced to be in the house alone, and was amazed by seeing an Englishman enter the hut with his facetattooed all over. Not being aware he was one of the runaways from theWellington, I spoke to him. He slunk into our cooking-house on pretenceof lighting his pipe, and before ten minutes had elapsed, the house wasin flames. 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

THE CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 

The summer was now far advanced, and never, during its progress, had webeen incommoded by any very hot weather. Our house was generally crowdedwith visitors: for, as it was the workmanship of King George and hispeople, they were prodigiously proud of it, and each seemed to think hehad an undoubted right to sit in it as much as he liked. This, at times, we felt as a great annoyance; but we were obliged to be very cautious notto say or do anything that should give offence to them, as all wereexceedingly irritable, and we felt it to be most essential to our comfortto continue on friendly terms with them. 

Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found theclimate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats andbeautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quitefree from those oppressive, feverish heats which invariably prevail inthe middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential windswhich are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were wesubject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of theAustralian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, neither too wet nor too dry. Reflecting on this country--its situation, inhabitants, and climate--I felt convinced that, if it were the object ofour Government to form a new colony, they could not select a moredesirable spot than New Zealand. When we left Sydney, a disease wasraging there of a most disagreeable nature, namely, catarrh. As usual, itaffected strongly the eyes and nose, and generally proved fatal to thevery old and to children. We found the poor natives here subject to thesame complaint, which they called the "Murray, " or "Murraybad"; and theydeclared they caught it from us Europeans. 

I could scarcely refrain from laughing while witnessing the strangemethods they adopted to effect a cure. Sometimes they would envelopetheir heads entirely in green leaves, at other times they would almostroast themselves in a heated hut; but their universal remedy, and the onethey generally found successful, was starvation, which is, in fact, thedoctor who cures them of all the diseases the Europeans have importedamongst them: and, I confess, I have often been amazed at their rapidrecovery from maladies which I should have thought incurable. The otherday I asked the opinion of a clever medical man, who came here with oneof the whalers, and he informed me the only cases he had met with amongstthe natives, which terminated fatally, were a few instances ofconsumption. 

After the novelty of our savage life began to wear away, I rambled muchabout the country, in order to form some judgment of its capability ofimprovement. I never possessed any practical knowledge of farming, andtherefore cannot give a scientific opinion or description of thedifferent soils. In whatever direction I travelled, and at this time Ihad crossed the country in various directions several times, the soilappeared to me to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From everypart of it which the natives have cultivated, the produce has beenimmense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to befound, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable (yetplanted) thrives, the introduction of European grasses, fruits, etc. , etc. , would be a great desideratum. Were this done, in a very short timefarms would be more eagerly sought after here than they now are in NewSouth Wales. All the fruits and plants hitherto introduced by themissionary establishments have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and watermelons now were in full season; the natives brought baskets full of themto our door every day, which they exchanged with us for the meresttrifles, such as a fish-hook, or a button. 

Indian corn was likewise very abundant, but as the natives did notpossess any means or knowledge of grinding it, they were not aware of itsfull value. Their only method of cooking it was one very disgusting toEuropeans. They soaked the ear in water till it was quite soft and sour, the smell from which was exceedingly offensive; they then placed it intheir earth ovens to bake, and when they partook of it they seemed toenjoy it very much. 

In one of my journeys across the island I was accompanied by my Scotchfriend, Mr. Shand, who prided himself very much upon his generalknowledge of agricultural pursuits; and when I indulged in some suddenbursts of admiration at the beauty of the surrounding prospect, he wouldinvariably check my enthusiasm, by observing that no animals couldpossibly live in a country so overgrown with fern, and where no grass wasindigenous. These observations, often repeated, obliged me to qualify myadmiration of this picturesque and beautiful land; but my surprise, and Imay say my triumph, were complete when, on approaching the missionaryvillage of Kirikiri, we fell in with a herd of at least a hundred fatcattle, browsing on the sides of the hill, and having nothing else butthis very fern to eat; and, on inquiry, we found they gave as good milk, and were in as healthy a condition, as when they grazed on the richgrasses of Lincolnshire. 

My friend, Captain Duke, made great preparations for the return of hisships, and purchased many pigs to be salted. The self-denial of thenatives is wonderful: though very fond of animal food, they sell thewhole to us Europeans for the means of war; thus conquering the appetitefor the purpose of possessing arms to make them terrible in the sight oftheir enemies. This feeling, properly directed, may lead to theirbecoming a great nation. In the course of our saltings and picklings ofpork, owing to the warmth of the weather, a considerable quantity wasspoiled. I recommended its being immediately thrown into the sea, butDuke, who knew the propensities of the people better than I did, andwished to ingratiate himself among them, sent for some of his favourites, and presented them with the damaged meat, with which they marched offhighly delighted, and made a public feast of it in the evening. 

[Illustration: New Zealand Method of Tattooing. (From a sketch byA. Earle. )]

CHAPTER XXXII. 

THE ART OF TATTOOING. 

The art of tattooing has been brought to such perfection here, thatwhenever we have seen a New Zealander whose skin is thus ornamented, wehave admired him. It is looked upon as answering the same purposes asclothes. When a chief throws off his mats, he seems as proud ofdisplaying the beautiful ornaments figured on his skin as a first-rateexquisite is in exhibiting himself in his last fashionable attire. It isan essential part of war-like preparations. The whole of this district ofKororarika was preparing for the approaching war. Their canoes, muskets, powder and balls, increased daily; and a very ingenious artist, calledAranghie, arrived to carry on this important branch of his art, which wassoon placed in requisition, for all the mighty men in the neighbourhoodwere one by one under his operating hands. 

As this "professor" was a near neighbour of mine, I frequently paid him avisit in his "studio, " and he returned the compliment whenever he hadtime to spare. He was considered by his countrymen a perfect master inthe art of tattooing, and men of the highest rank and importance were inthe habit of travelling long journeys in order to put their skins underhis skilful hands. Indeed, so highly were his works esteemed, that I haveseen many of his drawings exhibited even after death. A neighbour of minevery lately killed a chief who had been tattooed by Aranghie, and, appreciating the artist's work so highly, he skinned the chieftain'sthighs, and covered his cartouch box with it. 

I was astonished to see with what boldness and precision Aranghie drewhis designs upon the skin, and what beautiful ornaments he produced; norule and compasses could be more exact than the lines and circles heformed. So unrivalled is he in his profession, that a highly-finishedface of a chief from the hands of this artist is as greatly prized in NewZealand as a head from the hands of Sir Thomas Lawrence is amongst us. Itwas most gratifying to behold the respect these savages pay to the finearts. This "professor" was merely a _kooky_ or slave, but by skill andindustry he raised himself to an equality with the greatest men of hiscountry; and as every chief who employed him always made him somehandsome present, he soon became a man of wealth, and was constantlysurrounded by such important personages as Pungho Pungho, Ruky Ruky, KivyKivy, Aranghy Tooker, etc. , etc. My friend Shulitea (King George) senthim every day the choicest things from his own table. Though thus baskingin the full sunshine of court favour, Aranghie, like a true genius, wasnot puffed up with pride by his success, for he condescended to come andtake tea with me almost every evening. He was delighted with my drawings, particularly with a portrait I made of him. He copied so well, and seemedto enter with such interest into the few lessons of painting I gave him, that if I were returning from here direct to England, I would certainlybring him with me, as I look upon him as a great natural genius. 

[Illustration: Specimens of Tattooed Faces and Thigh. (From "Expeditionde l'Astrolabe. ")]

One of the important personages who came to the village to employ thetalent of our artist was a _Mr_. Rooky Rooky (and he was always veryparticular in remembering the _Mister_); he brought four of his wiveswith him, leaving six more at home (polygamy in New Zealand being allowedto any extent). One of this man's wives was a little girl not more thanten years of age, and she excited a great deal of interest amongst us, which, when he discovered, he became very anxious to dispose of her toany of us. He importuned us incessantly on the subject, saying she washis slave, and offered her in exchange for a musket. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

TRIBAL GOVERNMENT AND RELIGION. 

Though from my increased knowledge of the language, I was enabled to holdlonger conversations, I could not discover that the New Zealanders hadany universal form of government: there appeared to me to be no publicbodies, or any functionaries employed by the people. Each chief seemed topossess absolute power over his own slaves, and there his authorityterminated. Wealth made him feared by his foes, but gave him no influenceover his friends. All offence offered to any one of a tribe (or clan) isinstantly followed by some act of retaliation by the aggrieved party; andif one tribe is too weak to contend against the one from whom they havereceived the injury, they call in the aid of another. But should theoffence be of a very aggravated nature, and several families be injuredby it, a meeting of the chiefs is called. They assemble in one of theirforts, and, after a discussion, decide either for an amicable adjustment, or for an exterminating war. Thus these misguided beings are continuallydestroying each other for some imaginary insult. 

I became acquainted with a few venerable men of truly noble andpraiseworthy characters, such as would do honour to any age, country, orreligion. They had passed their whole lives in travelling from onechieftain's residence to another, for the purpose of endeavouring toexplain away insults, to offer apologies, and to strive by every meansin their power to establish peace between those about to plunge theircountry into the horrors of war. I have several times met thesebenevolent men journeying through the country on these pacific missions;and twice during my residence here they have been the happy means ofpreventing bloodshed. Although the New Zealander is so fond of war, andpossesses such war-like manners, yet are these peacemakers held in thehighest respect, although they do not hold any sacred function--indeed, no order of priesthood exists amongst the natives. I have neverdiscovered any symptoms of religion in these people, except it consistsin a great variety of absurd and superstitious ceremonies. Before Ivisited this island I used to imagine, from seeing so great a variety ofcarved figures which had been brought from this country, that they wereidols, to whom they paid their devotions; but in this I was deceived. They were merely the grotesque carvings of rude artists, possessing alively fancy, and were a proof of their industry as well as genius. Everychief's house is adorned with an abundance of these carved monsters. Oneof their favourite subjects is a lizard taking hold of the top of a man'shead; their tradition being that that was the origin of man. The lizardis sacred, and never injured by them. Several of their chiefs assured methey believed in the existence of a great and invisible spirit, calledAtna, who keeps a constant charge and watch over them; and that they areconstantly looking out for tokens of his approbation or displeasure. There is not a wind that blows but they imagine it bears some messagefrom him. And there are not wanting crafty men who pretend to a much moreintimate knowledge of his sentiments than the generality, and they easilywork on the minds of the credulous and the ignorant. These impostersobtain great consideration, and their counsel and advice is mostanxiously sought after by those about to undertake any importantbusiness; but, like ancient astrologers and modern gypsies, they speakonly in ambiguous terms; so that whatever may be the result, theirprediction may still correspond with it. 

Like all rude and ignorant people, the New Zealanders seem more to fearthe wrath of their God than to love his attributes; and constantsacrifices (too often human ones) are offered up to appease his anger. They imagine that the just and glorious Deity is ever ready to destroy, and that His hand is always stretched forth to execute vengeance. 

These sacred, or, more correctly speaking, these "cunning" men and women, who pretend to see into futurity, and to hold an intercourse with theGreat Spirit, are here (in one way, at least) turned to a good and usefulaccount. As they themselves are held sacred, everything they wish to havetaken particular care of, they can render sacred also. All the chiefsfind these people of the greatest use in protecting their property, forthey possess the power of tabooing, and when once this ceremony isperformed over any person or thing, no one dares to touch either; and fora sufficiently good bribe they will impart their sacred power to anychief, who, by means of this device, thus can protect a field of potatoesor grain, at fifty miles distance from his settlement, more securely andeffectually than by any fences, or number of persons he might place toguard it. 

This ceremony of taboo, which is common to the whole of the South SeaIslands, seems the principal part of their religion, and it is reallydifficult to walk without trespassing or infringing on some spot underthis influence. All those who touch a corpse are immediately taboo'd, andmust be fed like an infant, as their own hands must not touch anythingthat is put into their mouths. In fact, as we strolled through thevillage at the time of their evening repast, it appeared as though somedreadful disease had suddenly struck the greater part of the inhabitants, and deprived them of the use of their limbs, most of them being eitherfed by their slaves, or lying flat down on the ground, and with theirmouths eating out of their platters or baskets. The canoe that carries acorpse to the place of its interment is, from that time, taboo'd and laidup; and if any one by chance touches it, he does so at his peril. 

All those chiefs who were under the operating hands of Aranghie, thetatooer, were under this law, and all those who worked upon their warcanoes were similarly situated. Unfortunately for me, I one day took awaya handful of chips from their dockyard to make our fire burn clearly. Iwas informed they were taboo'd, and upon my pleading ignorance, andsorrow for the misdemeanour, together with a promise not to renew theoffence, I was pardoned. A poor hen of ours did not escape so well; she, poor thing, ventured to form a nest, and actually hatched a fine familyof chickens amongst these sacred shavings! Loud was the outcry, and greatthe horror she occasioned when she marched forth cackling, with her merrybrood around her. She and "all her little ones" were sacrificedinstantly. What became of their bodies we could never learn; probably theworkmen were not too fastidious to eat them. 

I have observed, since my residence here, one circumstance which proves akind feeling in the natives, and shows they are not averse to thepreaching of the missionaries, or the doctrines they inculcate. 

It was the custom of all the Europeans settled here, on the beach atKororarika, to refrain from all kinds of work on the Sabbath; to shave, and dress themselves in their best habiliments; and if any of themissionaries came over, they went forth to meet them, and hear divineservice. Several of the natives generally assembled and witnessed theceremony; and as they observed it came every seventh day, they called it"the white taboo'd day, when the pakeha (or white men) put on cleanclothes, and leave off work;" and, strange to say, the natives alsoabstained from working on that day. Nothing could induce them to thecontrary; not that we wished to persuade them to work, but merelyendeavoured so to do to ascertain the strength of their politeness. Not abit of work would they do upon a Sunday, although it was a critical timewith them; for all the chiefs were unprepared with their war canoes forthe approaching expedition. At length we discovered that their cunningwas as conspicuous as their politeness. They had observed we generallylay longer in bed on a Sunday morning than any other; they accordinglywere up by break of day, and had completed many hours' work before wemade our appearance; but the moment one of us did appear the work wasinstantly left off. This degree of outward respect, though craftilymanaged, was infinitely more than could be reasonably expected from arude and turbulent savage. It is mere respect than we Europeans pay toany religious ceremony we do not understand. Even their taboo'd groundswould not be so respected by us, if we were not quite certain theypossessed the power instantly to revenge any affront offered to theirsacred places. 

Of all animals introduced by the Europeans, the most unserviceable, andindeed injurious, have been the dogs. They have increased rapidly; everyspot was crowded with poor half-starved curs, that were all night longcommitting depredations on the poultry, pigs, and goats; and if someeffectual means of diminishing this pernicious breed is not soon resortedto, the island will be cleared of every other quadruped. Goats werebeginning to increase, and the craggy heights round the bays formed afavourite retreat for these interesting wanderers. Captain Duke puthimself to great expense and trouble, and effected the importation ofsome sheep from Van Diemen's Land; but the dogs soon destroyed them all. 

THE MASSACRE OF THE FRENCH NAVIGATOR MARION AND PARTY. 

Our friend George generally paid us a visit after the business of the daywas over, and took a cup of tea; wine or grog he detested: so, while hesipped his beverage, we lit our pipes, and managed, with our slightknowledge of his language, together with his imperfect English, to keepup a sort of conversation. Sometimes this was rather wearisome; butoccasionally it became interesting in the extreme. He told us that, whenCaptain Cook touched here, he was a little child; but that his mother(old Turero, who was then with him) remembered his coming well. TheFrench navigator, Marion, he recollected perfectly, and made one of theparty that murdered him and his people. His observation was, "They wereall brave men; but they were killed and eaten. "

He assured us that the catastrophe was quite unpremeditated. Marion'sentire ignorance of the customs of the New Zealanders occasioned thatdistressing event: as I have before observed, that strangers, notacquainted with their religious prejudices, are likely to commit somefatal error; and no action is more likely to lead a party into dangerthan an incautious use of the seine, for most of the beaches (best suitedfor that purpose) are taboo'd. This led to the dreadful fate of Marionand his party. I understood from George, that when Marion's men assembledto trail their net on the sacred beach, the natives used every kind ofentreaty and remonstrance to induce them to forbear, but, either fromignorance or obstinacy, they persisted in their intentions, and drewtheir net to land. 

The natives, greatly incensed by this act of impiety, vowed revenge; andthe suspicions of the French not being roused, an opportunity soonpresented itself of taking ample retaliation. The seine being very heavy, the French required the assistance of the natives in drawing it on shore. These wily fellows instantly consented to the task, and placed themselvesalternately between each Frenchman, apparently, to equalise the work. Consequently, in the act of pulling, each native had a white man beforehim; and, on an appointed signal, the brains of each European wereknocked out by a tremendous blow of the stone hatchet. 

Captain Marion, who, from his ship, was an eye-witness of these horridmurders, instantly hastened on shore with the remainder of his crew toavenge the slaughter of his countrymen. Led on more by ardour thanprudence, he suffered himself to be surrounded; was overpowered bynumbers, defeated, and every one was put to death!

This account of George's does not, I acknowledge, exactly agree with thepublished narrative of that unfortunate event, nor does his age agreewith the dates. Only a few years elapsed between the time of Cook andMarion, yet he declares himself to have been a child at the death of thenavigator, and a man at the murder of the latter; but as it was voluntaryon his part to give me the above detail, and even if he were not presenthimself, he most probably had the facts from one who was, I thought itworth inserting, as tending to throw light on one of the most melancholyevents which ever took place on these coasts. 

George also related to me the dreadful tragedy of the ship Boyd, and, horrible as these relations were, I felt a particular interest, almostamounting to pleasure, in hearing them related by an eye-witness; one whohad been an actor in those bloody scenes which I had before read of:narratives which from my very childhood had always possessed particularcharms for me; and at this time I was not only looking on the very spotthe hero of my imagination, Cook, had trod, but was hearing the tale fromone who had actually seen him; and was listening to every particularconcerning the transactions of Marion and his men, as though they hadjust taken place. 

Even in the dreadful destruction of the Boyd, George laid the blameentirely on the English, and spoke with great bitterness of theill-treatment of Philip, the native chief, who came as passenger in theship. He described and mimicked his cleaning shoes and knives; his beingflogged when he refused to do this degrading work; and, finally, hisspeech to his countrymen when he came on shore, soliciting theirassistance in capturing the vessel, and revenging his ill-treatment. Overand over again our friend George, having worked up his passion by a fullrecollection of the subject, went through the whole tragedy. The scenethus portrayed was interesting although horrible. No actor, trained inthe strictest rules of his art, could compete with George's vehemence ofaction. The flexibility of his features enabled him to vary theexpression of each passion; and he represented hatred, anger, horror, andthe imploring of mercy so ably that, in short, one would have imagined hehad spent his whole life in practising the art of imitation. 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

THE MAORI VIEW OF CHRISTIANITY. 

I frequently conversed with George upon the subject of religion, and fromwhat he told me I found that the natives had not formed the slightestidea of there being a state of future punishment. They refuse to believethat the good Spirit intends to make them miserable after their decease. They imagine all the actions of this life are punished here, and thatevery one when dead, good or bad, bondsman or free, is assembled on anisland situated near the North Cape, where both the necessaries andcomforts of life will be found in the greatest abundance, and all willenjoy a state of uninterrupted happiness. A people of their simplehabits, and possessing so little property, have but few temptations toexcesses of any kind, excepting the cruelties practised by them in war, in which they fancy themselves perfectly justified, and the tyrannyexercised by them over their slaves, whom they look upon as meremachines. There is, in fact, but little crime among them, for whichreason they cannot imagine any man wicked enough to deserve eternalpunishment. This opinion of theirs we saw an illustration of one Sunday, when one of the missionaries paid us a visit. 

The ceremony of all assembling to public worship astonished the nativesgreatly, though they always behaved with the utmost decorum when admittedinto the house where the ceremony takes place. On the day in questionthe minister endeavoured to explain the sacred mysteries of our religionto a number of the chiefs who were present. They listened attentively toall he said, and expressed no doubts as to its truth, only remarking that"as all these wonderful circumstances happened only in the country of thewhite men, the great Spirit expected the white men only to believe them. "The missionary then began to expatiate on the torments of hell, at whichsome of them seemed horrified, but others said "they were quite sure sucha place could only be made for the white faces, for they had no men halfwicked enough in New Zealand to be sent there;" but when the reverendgentleman added with vehemence that "all men" would be condemned, thesavages all burst into a loud laugh, declaring "they would have nothingto do with a God who delighted in such cruelties; and then (as a matterof right) hoped the missionary would give them each a blanket for havingtaken the trouble of listening to him so patiently. "

I cannot forbear censuring the missionaries, inasmuch as they prevent thenatives, by every means in their power, from acquiring the Englishlanguage. They make a point of mastering the native tongue as quickly aspossible, and being able to give their whole time and attention to it, this is easily accomplished. It is of importance that they should do so, otherwise they could not carry on the duties of the mission; but by thusengrossing the knowledge, they obtain great influence over the minds ofthe natives. We ourselves were sadly puzzled by a correspondence we hadwith two native chiefs, who had been taught to read and write by some ofthe Society; but their acquirements being in their native language, wereof no possible use. The difficulty of teaching them English would nothave been greater, and then what stores of information and improvementmight not their instructors have laid open to them. 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

THREATENED INVASION BY HONGI. 

We had passed some months here, and were beginning to look out for thereturn of our brig, to take us again into civilised society, when we wereonce more thrown into alarm by a threatened invasion. A rumour wascirculated in the village that Hongi, who now lay at the point of death, had declared that he would make one last glorious effort before heexpired. He was resolved (it was reported) to collect his warriors, overcome George and his followers, possess himself of Kororarika, and dieupon the conquered territory of his enemy; and I had no doubt that in hismoment of delirium such had been his exclamations, as it had always beenone of his favourite projects. When this was reported to George, heimmediately came to us, and with a most doleful countenance told us wemust take care of ourselves; for, if the report proved true, he was muchtoo weak to protect us. This certainly caused us some alarm, but, fortunately for us, a good-sized whaler, the Marianne, was then lying atanchor in the port, having arrived but a few days previously. Thepresence of a ship, all over the world, is felt as a protection toEuropeans, as in case of danger it is a sure place of refuge. 

King George sent off his messengers in every direction to inform hisfriends and dependants of the threats uttered against him by Hongi, andthe next day eight large war canoes, filled with warriors, came to hisassistance. They landed at some distance from the beach, and, as it waslate in the day, they would not make their public _entree_ till the nextmorning; for the New Zealanders are very fond of giving a grand effect toall their public meetings. I determined to pay them a visit, to witnessthe ceremonies of the night bivouack, which proved a most picturesquescene, and wild and beautiful in the extreme. Their watch fires glancedupon the dark skins of these finely formed men, and on their brightweapons. Some groups were dancing; others were lying round a fire, chanting wild songs, descriptive of former wars; whilst the graver elderssat in a circle, and discussed the present state of affairs. All weredelighted to see me, and each group offered to share their fire andprovisions with the "white visitor, " as they termed me. 

The next morning these auxiliary forces were seen descending the hills toour village; and, in order to return the compliment, we all went in ourbest array to receive them. There were upwards of two hundred athletic, naked savages, each armed with his firelock, and marching with the utmostregularity. The chiefs took the lead. The alarm such a sight might havecreated was dissipated by the certainty that they came as our protectors. I even imagined their countenances were not so ferocious as usual but asthey approached near to our party, the usual sham fight began, accompanied by the war dance, and although I expected it, and indeed hadcome for the purpose of witnessing it, it was conducted with so much furyon both sides, that at length I became quite horrified, and for sometime could not divest myself of the feeling that our visitors wereplaying false, so closely did this mock combat resemble a real one. Thedreadful noises, the hideous faces, the screeching of the women, and themenacing gestures of each party, were so calculated to inspire terror, that stouter hearts than mine might have felt fear. When the tumultsubsided, the elder chiefs squatted down, and had the long talk usual onthese occasions. 

I was much delighted to recognise among these chiefs one I had known atSydney. During his residence in that city I had permitted him to remainin my house, and the few presents which he had requested on his return tohis own country I had provided him with, and sent him off delighted andhappy, and never expected to behold him again. The moment I approached herecollected me, jumped up from the "council, " ran up to me, hugged me inhis arms, and rubbed noses so forcibly with me that I felt his friendshipfor some time, besides being daubed all over most plentifully with redochre, which he, being then on a war-like and ceremonious visit, wassmeared with from head to foot. 

When my savage friend (whom we used to call Mr. Tookee) had overcome hisfirst burst of delight at seeing me, and had literally left off jumpingfor joy, he introduced me to his father, Mr. De Frookee, the chief of histribe, a very fine specimen of an old New Zealander, who was (I found)highly respected for his integrity and benevolence. His eyes overflowedwith tears when he heard I was the person who had shown such kindness tohis son at Sydney. I soon felt quite "at home" with the old chief, andexperienced the good effect of having kept my word with this uncultivatedsavage. I had, at the time I presented him with the gifts, been muchlaughed at by my acquaintances at Sydney for putting myself to suchunnecessary expense; but, from the gratitude he displayed for thetrifling services I had then rendered him, I felt assured he and hiscompanions would do all in their power to protect me from every danger. 

A long discussion was now carried on, one speaker at a time occupying theoblong space round which the warriors sat, and the more animated thedebate, the faster ran the speaker to and fro, flourishing his hatchet ina most dexterous manner. The instant one speaker finishes, another startsup to answer him; but previous to rising they throw a mat or blanket overtheir shoulders, and arrange it most tastefully around them; and, astheir attitudes are all striking and graceful, and a great part of thefigure is left exposed, it forms a study for an artist, well worth hisgoing many miles to witness, and invariably reminded me of the finemodels of antiquity. 

As a painter, I conceive that this must have been the great secret of theperfection to which the Greek and Roman sculptors brought their works; asthey constantly contemplated the display of the human form in all itsbeauty in their various gymnastic exercises, which enabled them totransfer to marble such ease and elegance as we, living in an age ofcoats and breeches, never shall be able to rival. 

After the important subjects had been settled by the elders, the youngmen assembled without their weapons, and began another kind of shamfight, one grappling with another, till hundreds of them were locked ineach other's arms, and were flung in heaps in every direction. Afterthey were tired of this pastime, a regular ring was formed, and awrestling match began, which was carried on in as regular and fair amanner as a boxing match in our own country, and as much skill andcunning were displayed in the art of throwing as the greatest connoisseurwould desire. I was pleased, also, to observe that, whatever happened(and some most severe throws and blows passed), nothing could disturbtheir good humour. 

This party, having remained for seven days on our beach, and not hearinganything more of our intended invaders, their provisions also becomingrather scarce, took leave in order to return to their own district, placing scouts to give them quick intelligence of the movements of theenemy. 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

ARRIVAL OF A WARSHIP. 

A few days after the departure of this friendly tribe, a "King's ship" ofeighteen guns arrived in the Bay; consequently all our fears of animmediate invasion were over. No sooner had she cast anchor than ourfriend George came to us, expressing the greatest anxiety to visit KingGeorge of England's warship, and requesting we would accompany him, whichwe readily agreed to do; and he left us to adorn himself for theoccasion. Soon after he reappeared in great state. A very splendidwar-mat was thrown over his shoulders; his hair was dressed, oiled, anddecorated with feathers, and his person was plentifully covered with redochre: he appeared a very fine-looking fellow: his mother, his threewives, and all his sons and daughters were dressed in equal magnificence, and accompanied him. 

In this state we went off to visit the vessel; but the moment I camealongside, I repented my being there, for the rude and churlish manner inwhich we were received distressed me considerably. In the first place, anorder was given that none but the chief himself should be allowed to comeon board; consequently his wives and daughters were obliged to remain inthe canoe. The captain spoke only a few words to George, who was allowedto remain but a few minutes in the cabin; on getting up to take leave, George took off his fine war-mantle and presented it to the captain; but, receiving no other covering in return for his gift, he went on shorenaked! The officers of the vessel behaved differently: they conducted usall down into the gun-room, where they treated us most kindly, and paidevery attention to our friend George, whose dignity was deeply wounded bythe cool and contemptuous behaviour of the captain. 

How greatly is it to be regretted that some arrangements are not made byour Government at Home, and that there are not orders given to commandersof ships of war touching here to pay attention to the chiefs, and to makesome trifling presents amongst them; for there never were a people moreanxious to cultivate a friendly intercourse with British subjects thanthe inhabitants of New Zealand: and yet there is scarcely a Governmentvessel that puts into port here but the natives receive some insult, though they are sent for the express purpose of supporting the dignity ofthe English nation, and to cultivate the amicable feelings of the chiefs. 

When a "King's ship" comes to anchor, the chiefs (with all the glee ofchildren going to a fair) collect together their wives, children, andfriends, and pay a visit to the "fighting ships, " to see King George'swarriors (as they call them): when they come alongside they are kept offby an armed sentry; and, after a long parley, they are informed the chiefmay come, but his family and friends must not. In this case, the nativesgenerally spit at the vessel, and, uttering execrations on theirinhospitality, return on shore. 

One of the savage chieftains who accompanied us to the vessel inquestion, on our way back remarked, "that the white warriors were_afraid_ of admitting them, though they were unarmed and but a few; whilethe warriors in the ships were many, and armed with their great guns. "

Living entirely amongst these people so long as I had done, I felt theabsurdity of such conduct, and the folly of treating them so harshly. Ifever individuals are so situated as to need either the esteem or theconfidence of savages, they must bear with their prying and childishcuriosity, and not be afraid of treating them too kindly; by this meansthey become the quietest and gentlest creatures in the world; but, iftreated with contumely, and their wives and families repulsed from yourship, they become dangerous, vindictive, and cruel neighbours, as many adreadful deed which has taken place in this vicinity will fully prove. 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

THE WHALERS AND THE MISSIONARIES. 

The South Sea whalers are the ships the natives are the most anxious tosee on their coasts; and it is the crews of those vessels who have, in amanner, civilised these hardy islanders. Captain Gardiner, of theMarianne (the vessel now in the harbour), is the oldest person in thattrade; and he informed me, that not longer than twenty years backscarcely any vessel would dare to touch at New Zealand; and when, fromparticular circumstances, they were obliged so to do, they kept theirboarding-nettings up, and kept a strict guard night and day: their fearsarose from a want of knowledge of the disposition of the people. Thevessels frequenting the island use no precautions now: hundreds ofnatives are permitted to crowd on board each ship; and no accident hasever occurred from this mode of treatment. But when a ship of war arriveshere for the first time, the precautions taken are, to arm the row-guardwith cutlasses and pistols, and to harass the crew with constantwatching, while the only enemy that exists is in their own imaginations. To the courage and enterprise of the commanders of whalers all credit isdue for working the rapid change in these once bloody-minded savages, andforming safe and commodious harbours for their vessels to refit in: thishave they done in a part of the world lately looked upon with horror. What credit soever the missionaries may take to themselves, or try tomake their supporters in England believe, every man who has visited thisplace, and will speak his mind freely and disinterestedly, mustacknowledge _they_ have had no share in bringing about this change ofcharacter; but, on the contrary, they have done all that in them lay toinjure the reputation of the whaler in the estimation of the natives. Hitherto they have not succeeded: their want of hospitality and kindnessto their own countrymen raises a strong dislike to them in the minds ofthese unsophisticated people. According to their simple notions of rightand wrong, they think the want of hospitality an unpardonable offence, and that the counsel or advice of a man who shuts his door against hisneighbour is not worthy of being attended to. 

I will give the reader one more anecdote of these men, who are sent outto set an example of the beauty of the Christian faith to theunenlightened heathens. A few weeks since, the festival of Christmas tookplace; and Englishmen, in whatever part of the world they chance to be, make a point of assembling together on that day, our recollections thenbeing associated with "home" and our families, uniting to spend that dayin mutual congratulations and wishes for happiness. For some timeprevious to its arrival, the captains of the two whalers and myself hadbeen deliberating where we should spend this social day; and it wasfinally settled that we should cross the bay to Te Puna, a beautiful andromantic spot, the residence of an intelligent chief, called Warri Pork, and an Englishman, named Hanson. Near this was a church missionaryestablishment; and at this Englishman's house we determined we wouldspend the day. The captains of the two whalers then in the harbourjoined our party; and as everyone contributed his share towards ourpicnic feast, the joint stock made altogether a respectable appearance. 

We proceeded to Te Puna in two whaleboats: it was a most delightful trip, the scenery being strikingly beautiful. The village of Ranghe Hue, belonging to Warri Pork, is situated on the summit of an immense andabrupt hill: the huts belonging to the savages appeared, in many places, as though they were overhanging the sea, the height being crowned with amighty pah. At the bottom of this hill, and in a beautiful valley, thecottages of the missionaries are situated, complete pictures of Englishcomfort, content, and prosperity; they are close to a bright sandy beach:a beautiful green slope lies in their rear, and a clear and never-failingstream of water runs by the side of their enclosures. As the boatsapproached this lovely spot, I was in an ecstasy of delight: such a happymixture of savage and civilised life I had never seen before; and when Iobserved the white smoke curling out of the chimneys of my countrymen, Ianticipated the joyful surprise, the hearty welcome, the smiling faces, and old Christmas compliments that were going to take place, and thegreat pleasure it would give our secluded countrymen to meet us, in thesedistant regions, at this happy season, and talk of our relatives andfriends in England. 

My romantic notions were soon crushed; our landing gave no pleasure tothese secluded Englishmen: they gave us no welcome; but, as our boatsapproached the shore, they walked away to their own dwellings, closedtheir gates and doors after them, and gazed at us through their windows;and during three days that we passed in a hut quite near them, theynever exchanged one word with any of the party. Thus foiled in our hopesof spending a social day with our compatriots, after our dinner was overwe sent materials for making a bowl of punch up the hill to the chiefs, and spent the remainder of the day surrounded by generous savages, whowere delighted with our company, and who did everything in their power tomake us comfortable. In the course of the afternoon two of the missioncame up to preach; but the savages were so angry with them for notshowing more kindness to their own countrymen, that none would listen tothem. 

I have visited many of the Roman Catholic missionary establishments;their priests adopt quite a different line of conduct: they are cheerfuland kind to the savage pagan, and polite and attentive to their Europeanbrethren; they have gained the esteem of those they have been sent toconvert; they have introduced their own language amongst them, whichenables them to have intercourse with strangers; and, however we maydiffer in some tenets of religious belief, we must acknowledge thesuccess of their mission. They have brought nearly the whole of theIndian population in South America into the bosom of their church; andtheir converts form the greater part of the people. Notwithstanding thenumerous church and sectarian missionaries sent from England, I never metwith one Indian converted by them. I have attended mass in an Indianvillage; a native priest performed the ceremony, and the wholecongregation (except myself) were of his cast and complexion: and, it isworthy of remark, that in Peru, and some of the most populous provinces, a pagan is scarcely to be found. 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

THREATENED WAR. 

We now heard that Tetoro (one of the most powerful chiefs of this part ofthe island) had taken offence, and had sent a defiance to King George, saying he intended coming to seek revenge, accompanied by a strong bodyof warriors; and the "herald" who brought this proclamation informed usthat the English settlers were to be attacked and plundered also. 

We had every reason to fear this might prove a more calamitous affairthan any we had yet experienced; as George immediately collected all hisfamily and dependents, and took his departure for the Kawakawa river (theresidence of De Kookie, the chief who had come to his assistance againstHongi's attack), leaving behind only a few slaves. Thus a second timewere we left to our own resources on Kororarika Beach. George and hisfollowers were too much scattered: some were trading with the ships, others were distributed in various districts, attending to theiragricultural pursuits. Thus separated, each might become an easy prey toany of the powerful chiefs; but, were they united, they would be toostrong for any of the tribes: unfortunately the hope of gain made themrisk so great a danger. At this period, too, there was not a singlevessel in the bay to protect us. The known partiality of all the tribesfor Europeans was the only consolation we had; and we endeavoured tocheer each other with this hope, under what in reality might beconsidered very appalling circumstances. 

After enduring this state of suspense and anxiety for several days, andno enemy appearing, we determined to pay a visit to the camp of thecombined army of our friends, which would, at the same time, gratify ourown curiosity, and give them a degree of satisfaction; as it would proveto them that we were not afraid of venturing amongst them, even in timesof danger. We accordingly prepared the whaleboats to proceed up theKawakawa river; and, as I had never been there before, the presentafforded an excellent opportunity for exploring that picturesque spot. 

At the top of the Bay of Islands, two rivers disembogue, the Wye Catteand the Kawakawa: they are both small but beautiful streams. It was earlyin the morning when we started: the dewy mist rose from the unruffledbosom of the river like the gradual lifting up of a curtain, and, atlength, displayed its lofty sides, covered with immense trees, theverdure extending to the very edge of the water. All was quiet, beautiful, and serene; the only sounds which broke the calm were the wildnotes of the tui (or New Zealand blackbird), the splashing of our ownoars, or the occasional flight of a wild duck (or shag), disturbed by ourapproach. 

We rowed our boat many miles without seeing the slightest vestige of anyhuman inhabitants or civilisation: all appeared wild and magnificent asif just fresh from the hands of nature; and it failed not to lead themind up to the contemplation of the Creator. It seemed utterly impossibleto reconcile the idea that such lonely, romantic, and sequestered scenescould conceal hordes of savage cannibals, or that the tranquility of thisvery place would soon be exchanged for the noise and tumult of savagewarfare. We soon reached the village where the coalesced chiefs had takenup their station: they had fortified their position, and were waiting theapproach of the enemy. No sooner, however, was our arrival known, thanall came running down tumultuously to give us welcome: all business waslaid aside to greet our landing, and we were conducted with greatceremony into the centre of the camp. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

CONSTRUCTION OF A PA. 

We found eight hundred warriors, who (to use a sea phrase) were "all atquarters. " The magic pen of Scott might here have been well employed todescribe "The Gathering. " The chiefs sat apart from their followers indeep consultation: we did not approach near enough to hear theirdiscussion; but it ended by their paying us a high compliment for comingamongst them. The young and active were busily employed in constructing astrong stockade fort to annoy the enemy as he approached; others werepreparing their weapons, or practising the use of arms. 

The village itself was an object of extreme interest; and, aftercontemplating the war-like preparations of the chiefs, we turned withpleasure to gaze on the beauty of the surrounding country. In a plain, surrounded by high hills, with a beautiful stream of water meanderingthrough it, was situated a group of huts; and many acres of cultivatedground, neatly fenced and cleared, encircled them. Their harvest, consisting of Indian corn, potatoes, and kumara, was now ready forgathering, and all the women were busily occupied. As I from an eminencelooked down upon their labours, I could almost fancy I was in Italy, andbeheld the peasantry at work in their vineyards: but the adjacent campand naked warriors soon dissipated the illusion!

On approaching the village we occasioned quite a commotion: the girlsbrought forth baskets filled with cooked kumaras and peaches, while themen erected a tent to screen us from the rays of the sun: indeed, allseemed anxious to do something that should prove acceptable to us. We hadbrought with us sufficient provision for a good dinner which was sooncooked, and we invited them to partake of our fare, and a very merry andnoisy group we formed. After our repast, the chief warriors took us roundtheir camp, and exhibited to us all their means of defence, and thedifferent works they had thrown up. Where the use of artillery isunknown, the principles of fortification are simple, and the NewZealanders seem to possess a clear notion of the art: necessity beingwith them the mother of invention. 

In the direction where the approach of the enemy was expected, they haderected a strong square stockade, to molest the army; while the women andchildren retired to the principal fort, which was very strong, andsituated at the summit of the highest hill: it had a breast-work allround it about five feet high, and a broad ditch beyond that. Thefortress was large enough to contain several hundred men: it had aspacious glacis in front, and every approach to it was so completelyexposed, that we thought even a body of regular troops, withoutartillery, would have found it very difficult to storm; and to the NewZealand warrior it seemed a wonderful and impregnable work. 

The chief who had the command of this fort was our old acquaintance KineyKiney, a younger brother of King George's, who seemed proud of thishonour, and appeared highly delighted in showing us round, andexplaining everything to us; even condescending to ask our advice as toany means of adding strength and security to the works. He listenedattentively to all our observations; and if he approved any alteration wesuggested he ordered it instantly to be carried into effect. I noticed athicket too near the fort, and told him I thought it might shelter a bodyof men, and before I left the pa it was reduced to a heap of ashes. Sentinels were posted in every direction to give notice of the approachof an enemy. _Mr. _ Kiney Kiney (as he was sometimes called) wassplendidly apparelled on this occasion: he had, by some means or other, become possessed of a light infantry sabre, with all its paraphernalia ofbelts and buckles; this was girded round his naked body, which gave him avery gallant air, and, I have no doubt, was the envy and admiration ofall his followers. 

CHAPTER XL. 

A SHAM FIGHT. 

After we had seen and approved all their preparations, we were treatedwith a grand review and sham fight: they divided themselves into twoparties; one half the number took their station on a hill, and layconcealed; the other party crouched on the plains to receive the attack, all kneeling on one knee, with their eyes fixed on the spot whence theyexpected the rush of their pretended enemies. In a moment, the concealedparty burst forth from their ambush, with a tremendous and simultaneousshout, and the mock battle began with great fury. 

Nothing in nature can be imagined more horrible than the noise they makeon these occasions. I have heard, under circumstances of some peril, theNorth American Indian war-whoop; but that is trifling compared with itand their countenances are hideous beyond description. My principalastonishment on these occasions was, that they did not actually kill eachother, or, at least, break each other's bones; for they seemed to strikewith all the fury and vigour of a real engagement; but they kept suchexact time, that at a moment's notice they all left off, and began jokingand laughing, except a very few, whom I observed to sneak away to washoff some bloody witness, or to put a plaster on their broken skin. 

After these military and gymnastic exhibitions, they formed a grandassembly, and the chiefs, as usual, made long speeches in rotation. Thisrude parliament is one of the most beautiful features in savagegovernment: all public matters are discussed openly, grievances arecomplained of, and justice is summarily administered. 

Thus, after spending a pleasant day, we rose to depart, and took anaffectionate leave of our entertainers, who were most anxious that weshould remain longer; but we thought we had better return to Kororarika, where our property had been left. Most of the chiefs accompanied us toour boats, and, after exhibiting various testimonies of their friendlyfeeling towards us, they suffered us to depart. 

The day following this visit, we were alarmed by the appearance of twowar canoes crossing the bay: we waited their approach with considerableanxiety: what few valuables we had with us we concealed about ourpersons; but, as they neared our beach, our fears subsided, on findingthere were only a few men in each. Three chiefs (unarmed) landed, whom wefound to be Rivers and two of his near kinsmen, the most dreaded personsof our expected invaders; but they immediately informed us they came on amission of peace, and, for that reason, had come to us unattended andunarmed. 

We were most happy to hear this, and to find hostilities were againlikely to be deferred. Though we well knew the character of these men, and that they were capable of the most treacherous acts, and the deepestdissimulation, yet, their thus throwing themselves into our power, withthe olive branch in their hands, was irresistible; and we received themwith all the pomp we were capable of. We ordered a pig to be killed forthe feast, and requested them to remain for that night. In order to dohonour to our noble guests, and credit to our friend and ally KingGeorge, we produced all the luxuries we had; and, in addition to thepork, piles of pancakes and molasses were devoured: after this we gavethem tea, of which they are very fond; and, over our pipes, in theevening, we informed them of the preparations the coalesced chiefs hadmade for their reception, had their intentions been hostile. 

The next morning they embarked for the camp at Kawakawa, where, Iunderstood, they had considerable difficulty in arranging the "treaty ofpeace": George having been so often alarmed, now that such greatpreparations had been effected (as he well know the treacherous characterof his foe), he was unwilling to give up the hopes of conquest; however, by the advice of the chiefs, it was finally settled amicably. George andhis friends accordingly returned to Kororarika, leaving a strong party atthe pa to finish the fortifications; and, though peace was made, ourparty still kept themselves in a posture of defence. 

CHAPTER XLI. 

RETURN OF THE BRIG. --AN EXCITING INCIDENT. 

We had been expecting with great anxiety the return of our brig; and, soon after the termination of this affair, we had the pleasure of seeingher enter the bay, after her cruise from Tongataboo and Tucopea. We foundthat, on leaving the Bay of Islands, she had touched at the Thames, or(as the natives call it) Hauraki, in order to land two chiefs, whomCaptain Dillon had taken thence two years before, and, in the confusionoccasioned by the disembarking, the visiting and congratulations offriends (the vessel being under weigh), one chief was left on board, whohad not been discovered till all the canoes were out of sight, and thereremained no other alternative for him than to proceed on the wholevoyage. 

This was of no importance as it respected Tongataboo or Tucopea; but, onhis return to Kororarika, it was not only placing him, but all of us, ina dreadful dilemma! His tribe being at deadly enmity with that of George, the moment he was seen on deck (which was as soon as the vessel arrived), George and all the men in the various canoes appeared to grow outrageous:nothing would convince them but that we were in league with theirenemies, and had brought this spy into their territories from interestedmotives; and they seemed resolved upon boarding the brig and executingvengeance upon the unfortunate victim. To all our remonstrances Georgereplied, "Any other man than this I would have pardoned; but it was onlylast year he killed, and helped to eat, my own uncle, whose death stillremains unrevenged: I cannot allow him to leave my country alive; if Idid, I should be despised for ever. "

I was greatly grieved at the circumstance; but, as I was somewhat of afavourite with George, I succeeded in convincing him that it arose purelyfrom accident, and no intention of giving him offence; and he consentedto leave him on board, but cautioned us not to allow him to land. "If Isee him on shore he dies, " he repeated several times. It would have beenwell for us had we attended to this warning: we did not; and weaccordingly infringed on the customs of his country; thus placingourselves in a most perilous situation with the natives, and plainlyshowing that the imprudence of our countrymen is invariably the cause ofquarrels and misunderstandings with these islanders. 

Some days having passed since this altercation with George, we thought nomore about it. The brig, from various causes, was certain to remain sometime in this harbour; and, as our New Zealand guest expressed a greatdesire to go on shore one day, we consented to his accompanying us. Wehad scarcely entered our house, when we had reason to repent theimprudent step we had taken: all the natives were in commotion;messengers were sent off to George to acquaint him with the circumstance, and soon after we saw him, attended by all his relations, accoutred forwar; that is, quite naked, their skins oiled and painted, and armed withmuskets. Fury was in their looks and gestures as they hastened towardsour residence. We had scarcely time to shut and fasten our door, whenthey made a rush to force it; and we had a severe struggle to keep themout. At one period their rage became so ungovernable that we expectedevery instant they would fire on us for preventing their entrance. Theman who was the cause of all this violence crept into our bedroom, andkept out of sight; but he did not, at any period of the disturbance, exhibit the least sign of fear, so accustomed are they from childhood tothese deadly frays. 

When the natives found we would not give up the man, but that they mustmurder us before they could accomplish their revenge, the disappointmentrendered them nearly frantic. Our situation was most critical andappalling; and nothing can be a more convincing proof of the influencethe Europeans have obtained over them, than that, at such a moment, theyshould have refrained from setting fire to or pulling down the house, andsacrificing every one of us. George again remonstrated with us, assuringus it was his sacred duty to destroy this man, now he was in histerritory; a duty which, he said, he owed to the memory of his murderedrelations, and which must be performed, even though he should sacrificehis "good English friends. " He cautioned us not to stand between him andhis enemy, who must die before the sun set, pointing, at the same time, to that luminary, and ordering his slaves to kindle a large fire to roasthim on. Finally, he and his friends planted themselves all round thehouse to prevent the escape of their victim. Thus were we environed withfifty or sixty well armed and exasperated savages. 

Our imprudence had given us no other alternative than either to give upthe man, who had put himself under our protection, or still to defend himat the risk of our own lives: we instantly adopted the latter course. Fortunately for us, a whaler was lying in the harbour, and a party of hermen were then on shore in the neighbourhood procuring water. We had sentto them to explain the nature of our situation, and we saw them coming toour assistance, though the numbers of natives at this time assembledtotally precluded all chance of our getting off by force; and a varietyof schemes were suggested as to how we should save the man's life, andget clear of this difficulty, without sacrificing the good opinion wewere held in by the natives. 

We were well aware of the great importance it was to George to continueon friendly terms with the English vessels touching here, as they notonly afforded him various sources of considerable profit, but theintercourse gave him great importance in the eyes of his countrymen; andwe determined to make this circumstance a means of saving the man's life, as we suspected that a threat of removing the seat of trade would soonmake him compromise his revenge for his interest. 

We therefore sent him a formal message, that, if he was resolved to killhis enemy in our house, we had determined not to prevent him, but that wewould not stay to witness such a cruelty; and that we should immediatelyremove every thing we possessed on board ship, leave the Bay of Islands, and seek the protection and shelter of some other chief; and, if hecompelled us to do so, no other British ship would ever be seen atKororarika. 

We accordingly ordered the ship's boats ashore, and our things werequickly conveyed into them. I trembled when I looked on the natives, andsaw the rage depicted on their countenances; and I, trusting inProvidence to avert from me the dreadful death with which I saw myselfthreatened, prepared myself for some fatal catastrophe. Tumultuousdiscussions ensued, and it at length became difficult for the elders torestrain the impetuosity of the younger chiefs. Fortunately for us, theirvehement speeches soon produced a violent feud amongst themselves. Mutualupbraidings took place: each accused the other of being the cause ofquarrel, and the consequent loss of the white men. This was precisely thestate of things we wished for; and, while we were waiting the return ofthe last boat, a messenger came from the elder chiefs, to propose anamicable adjustment of the affair. The chiefs promised that, if we wouldreland our goods and remain with them, the man we protected should gowithout molestation on board the brig; but, if we persevered in leavingthem, the man should be killed before our eyes. This was what weexpected; and though I really now wished to leave them, being quite tiredof these perpetual broils, we assented, in order that the man's lifemight be spared When they found we agreed to their proposal, theyretreated out of sight, thereby carefully avoiding polluting their eyesby looking upon their enemy. 

No sooner had they disappeared than I visited the poor fellow who hadbeen the cause of all this disturbance: he seemed half dead with anxiety;but I soon revived him with the information that all was settledamicably; and we lost no time in getting him off, which we safelyaccomplished, though, as the boat which conveyed him left the shore, abullet whizzed close by me, aimed, no doubt, by some young fiery chief, who had concealed himself in the bushes for that purpose. 

During this transaction I witnessed the natural kindness of heart anddisinterested tenderness of the female sex: no matter how distressing thecircumstance or appalling the danger, they are, in all countries, thelast to forsake man. While the enraged chiefs were yelling outside ourhouse, and all our exertions could scarcely prevent them from making aforcible entry, all the women were sitting with, and trying to comfortthe unhappy cause of this calamity. They had cooked for him a delicatedinner, brought him fruit, and were using every means by which they couldkeep up his spirits and buoy up his hopes, confidently assuring him thewhite men would not yield him up to his ferocious foes. Notwithstandingall their exertions, he was miserable, till informed by me of his safety;and I received the warmest thanks, and even blessings, from his "fair"friends, as if I had conferred upon each a personal favour. 

The man being now in safety, we determined to demand satisfaction for theaffront which had been put upon us, and we sent George word we could notagain receive him into our house unless he made an ample apology for hisbehaviour, painting in strong colours how deeply our feelings had beenwounded, and how much this indignity had lowered us in the esteem of allour acquaintances. 

After some consultation among their leading men upon the subject of ourmessage, King George presented himself at the door of our hut, and, inthe most humble manner, surrendered his musket; and shortly after hisbrother Kiney Kiney did the same. Thus we gained our point, and receivedboth payment and apologies for their violent behaviour. Friendship beingthus restored, we soon gave them back their muskets, to their infinitesurprise and satisfaction. 

On reflection, I felt quite convinced that the natives liked us thebetter for what we had done: it afforded them also a lesson of humanity, for they all well knew we had no other object in view when we stoodforward to defend the poor fellow, who had relied upon our promise ofprotecting him. Several chiefs told us that they greatly admired ourprinciples, and should always feel themselves quite safe with men likeus, who would risk their own lives rather than break their word, ordesert a friend in the hour of danger. 

At the close of this eventful day we received another token of peace, which was in its manner simple and affecting, and not such as could havebeen expected from a nation of savages. A procession of young girlsapproached our door, each bearing a basket: some were filled with nicelycooked potatoes, others with various fruits and flowers, which they setdown before us, chanting, in a low voice, a song in praise of our recentexploit; a man bearing a very large fish closed the procession; herepeated the song also. We were informed that these presents had beensent by King George as a ratification of friendship, for the NewZealanders never think a reconciliation perfected till you have againeaten and drank with them. 

Two important conclusions may be drawn from the termination of thisaffair: first, that if a spirited interference takes place on the part ofthe Europeans, murder may be at times prevented, as we actually rescueda mortal foe from the vengeance of an exasperated enemy; and, secondly, their efforts to restore amity proves their extreme desire to have whitepeople settle amongst them. 

About a week after this event we witnessed a most extraordinary ceremony, which partook more of the ludicrous than the horrible, though I have nodoubt it was regarded by the natives as a most solemn affair. For somedays we had been honoured by the presence of a great priest, or one oftheir chief tabooers; he came for the purpose of discussing with thechiefs the affairs of the nation, particularly the approaching war withthe tribe of the Thames; and the day set apart for the discussion of theprincipal points was ushered in by a rich feast, not of pork nor fish, nor even the kumara, but of two old, sturdy, large dogs!

I was much surprised on rising one morning to see Kiney Kiney, withseveral chiefs of the highest rank, stripped, and performing the officesof the meanest slave (the washing the feet of the pilgrims by cardinalsand persons of rank in Rome came instantly to my remembrance). Thesechiefs were making a fire and cooking. I was still more astonished, onapproaching them, to find the nature of the food they were singeing andscraping. This bow-wow meat they were preparing after the fashion ofpork: pigs being the only quadruped they have ever seen cooked, they ofcourse are not acquainted with any other way of dressing the animalcreation, and a sad bungling job they made of it; for the dogs were oldand tough, and the hair adhered most pertinaciously to the skin, and inmany places would not come off. 

There were only five persons allowed to partake of this delicious meal, which was, as well as the five partakers, strictly taboo'd for the wholeof that day: and we strongly recommended them to hold a similar feastevery day, until they had cleared the country of these canine nuisances, the dogs being the greatest pests they have. 

CHAPTER XLII. 

WAR-LIKE EXPEDITION TO THE THAMES. 

One morning I was roused out of a sound sleep by continued discharges ofmusketry from a number of war canoes. I jumped up instantly in alarm; butI soon discovered them to be Atoi and his party, who had been absentabout two months on a war-like expedition to the Thames, and they were nowreturning successful. 

I had witnessed the departure of this expedition, and considered it inthe light of a reconnoitring party. I could not make out what the realobject was they had been in search of; but, wherever they had been, theyhad been victorious, for they now returned with quantities of plunder, human heads, human flesh, and many prisoners! After the dance and shamfight had been duly gone through, they proceeded to land their cargo ofspoil. First came a group of miserable creatures, women and children, torn by violence from their native homes, henceforth to be the slaves oftheir conquerors; some were miserably wounded and lacerated, otherslooked half-starved, but all seemed wretched and dejected. 

The women of Kororarika, with their usual humanity, instantly surroundedthem, and endeavoured to console them, and then shed abundance of tearsover them. I enquired of one of the warriors what they had done with themale prisoners: he coolly replied, they had all been eaten, except some"titbits, " which had been packed up in the baskets and brought on shore, in order to regale particular friends and favourites!

They had also brought with them several heads, which they have the art ofpreparing in their native ovens, so as not to disfigure the countenancenor injure the figure tatoo'd upon them. One of these, the skull of adistinguished chief, seemed to afford them amazing delight. Most of ourpeople had known him well, and several of his near relations werepresent: but cruel war seemed to have eradicated every feeling ofhumanity; for all appeared to contemplate this ghastly object with greatsatisfaction. These heads were decorated profusely with yellow and redribbons, and with white feathers: they were then stuck upon short poles, and placed, with great ceremony, in front of the old Queen Turero'shouse; who, sitting at the door, received this token of respect withapproval and condescension. 

The group altogether formed an interesting picture of savage manners, inwhich ferocity was strongly blended with humanity, for their respect anddevotion to the old sybil was manifested as feelingly as their hatredtowards those whom they call their enemies: in fact, the young warriorchiefs presenting to her (as was the case with several) their firstspoils of conquest, reminded me of young lions bringing part of thespoils of the chase to their aged dam. 

In this affray only a few of Atoi's party had been wounded, andtwenty-five of the enemy had been killed. It was a fortunate circumstancefor the wretched prisoners that none of the conquering party had beenkilled; for, if that had been the case, there would have been a dreadfulslaughter of the captives on their arrival at the village, an act ofcruelty never dispensed with. This sight I dreaded I should encounterwhen I went to witness the disembarkation; but, hoping that my presencemight be some restraint upon their barbarities, I awaited the result withas much firmness as I was master of. 

[Illustration: Old Pa and Whalers at Bay of Islands. ]

CHAPTER XLIII. 

VISITS OF WHALERS. 

Two South Sea whalers were at this time lying in the bay: the Anne, fromLondon, a full ship; and the Lynx, from Sydney. Since I have been livinghere, five vessels of this description have visited us; and many otherswould have touched here but for the want of proper regulations, and adread of the dispositions of the natives. There being here norepresentatives of the British Government, the crews of whalers are ofteninvolved in disputes with the natives. This want of Government supporthas also frightened other vessels away; their commanders preferring goingon to Port Jackson, where they half ruin themselves by the unavoidableexpenses they incur. Even when their vessels have anchored here, thethoughtlessness and eccentricity of this class of men, when they areunder no restraint or control, has sometimes not only led to disputeswith the natives, but with each other, which eventually have provedequally detrimental. In short, New Zealand is a place of such vastimportance to so many lucrative branches of British trade, that it mustbe well worthy the speedy attention of our Government at home. 

We spoke frequently to our friend George, as well as to several other oftheir powerful chiefs, respecting the erection of a small fort with aBritish garrison, and of permanently hoisting the English flag. Theyalways expressed the utmost delight at the idea; and, from all I haveseen of them, I feel convinced it would prove a most politic measure. George (who had visited Port Jackson) said: "This country is finer thanPort Jackson; yet the English go and settle there. Our people are muchbetter than the black natives of New South Wales, and yet you Englishlive amongst them in preference to us. "

The ship Anne, Captain Gray, was out three years, and during that periodshe never entered a civilised port. She had touched twice at this bay, and had cruised four months on the coast of Japan, off Timor, through theSandwich and Friendly Islands, and passed several times over the PacificOcean, in order to obtain a cargo of sperm oil, which she at lengthaccomplished; and was at this time here to refit for her voyage home toEngland round Cape Horn, having picked up most of her cargo off thisport. 

For twelve years past, notwithstanding all the disadvantages, this hasbeen the favourite resort for ships in the above-mentioned trade. Here, surrounded with savages and cannibals, they heave down their vessels, land the cargoes and stores, and carry on work, both on board and onshore, in tolerable security. The safety of the harbour, the facility ofwooding and watering, the supplies of pigs and potatoes, tempt them torun the risk of placing themselves in the power of capricious andbarbarous people. 

It has been imagined that the residence of missionaries would have theeffect of civilising the natives, and adding to the safety of shipstouching here; but experience fully proves the fallacy of such anexpectation. These people, abstracted by their own gloomy reflections, look with contempt on all who are in the pursuit of "worldly wealth"; andregard the arrival of a whaler as an enemy coming to interfere with thespiritual interests of "their flock, " as they term the inhabitants, though I never yet saw one proselyte of their converting. 

They never visit a whaler except on a Sunday, and then it is to beg forthe benefit of their society. It cannot, therefore, be expected that muchsympathy can exist between parties, where the cold formality of oneexcites the contempt and disgust of the other. 

The ship Anne, of which I have formerly spoken, arrived here lately fromWahoo, one of the Sandwich Islands, which possesses the advantage of aBritish consul. The pacific disposition and orderly government of thenatives do not require a British garrison, or any war-like force; and ofthe excellent effects produced by this representation of our GovernmentCaptain Gray speaks with admiration and enthusiasm. The harbours werecrowded with shipping; houses, nay, even streets, were beginning toappear; the savage character of the people was gradually subsiding intoindustrious and peaceful occupations; and comfort and prosperity werespreading their benign influence over the whole island: yet Wahoo is notnearly so well situated as a rendezvous for South Sea whalers as NewZealand; at least so I have been informed by all the captains of thoseships who have conversed with me on the subject. 

It is rather a remarkable and novel circumstance that the natives, whohave been now for fourteen or fifteen years in close intercourse andcarrying on traffic with Europeans, should not, in the course of thatperiod, understand the nature and value of money; a laughable instance ofwhich occurred to us a few days since. A native came to our house with aserious countenance and business-like manner, and said he wished topurchase a musket: we asked to see what he had brought in exchange forone, when, with great ceremony, he produced a copper penny piece in theway of payment. The poor fellow had, doubtless, seen some one pass adoubloon, and had mistaken his penny for one; as a doubloon is about theprice given for a musket in our regulated list of charges. We, of course, refrained from laughter; but he was quite astonished and mortified whenhe was made to understand we could not trade with him. He took a strollround the beach, offering his penny, by way of barter, to every white manhe met, but everywhere with equally bad success. 

CHAPTER XLIV. 

VISIT OF TWO SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. 

When our brig left Tucopea she brought away two natives of that island, who had most earnestly entreated the captain to take them off, and leavethem upon any other land he pleased, as, according to their statement, Tucopea was so overstocked with inhabitants that it was scarcely possibleto find subsistence; and the scarcity of food had become so general, thatparents destroyed their children rather than witness their sufferingsfrom famine. Captain Kent, therefore, from motives of compassion, received them on board his ship; and, not having touched at any inhabitedspot, brought them with him here. Their extraordinary appearance exciteda great deal of surprise, both among Europeans and New Zealanders. Theyappeared simple, timid creatures, though stout and comely, but their hairwas unlike anything I had before beheld, as in length it reached belowthe waist, and was so abundantly thick as completely to conceal theirfaces. By some curious chemical process which the natives of Tucopea havediscovered, they render their hair a bright sulphur colour; and, as thismass of yellow hangs over their faces and shoulders, they bear the moststriking resemblance to the lion monkeys of the Brazils. 

These poor creatures, upon landing, shook with fear, and trembled greatlywhen they beheld the New Zealanders, whose character for cannibalism hadreached even their remote island: when our friend George went up to them, and lifted up (in order to examine closely) the curious mass of hair inwhich they were enveloped, they burst into a passionate fit of tears, andran up to us for protection. The New Zealanders, with characteristiccunning, perceiving the horror they had created, tormented them stillmore cruelly, by making grotesque signs, as if they were about tocommence devouring them; and, at the same time (like most savages), evincing the most sovereign contempt for them, from their apparentpusillanimity. 

After they had been some days on shore, we had a very diverting scenewith them, which exhibited strongly the great difference there is in thenature of the two classes of savages we now had such opportunities ofobserving. I had brought my violin from Sydney, on which I used to playoccasionally. The New Zealanders generally expressed the greatest disliketo it; and my companions used to rally me much on the subject, saying itwas not that the savages did not like music, but it was my discordantplaying that frightened them away, which might be true. It was, however, a useful discovery for us all, as I often took that method of civillydriving them out of our house when we grew tired of their company. Butwhen I began to play before the Tucopeans, the effect it had instantlyupon them was ludicrous in the extreme. They sprang up, and began dancingmost furiously; at the same time, so waving their heads about as to keeptheir long hair extended at its fullest length: as I played faster, theyquickened their pace. A lively Scotch reel seemed to render them nearlyfrantic; and when I ceased playing, they threw themselves down on thefloor quite exhausted, and unable to articulate a word. I have observed(generally speaking) that savages are not much affected by music; butthese two Tucopeans were excited to a most extraordinary degree. 

CHAPTER XLV. 

THE DEATH OF HONGI. 

We at length received authentic intelligence of the death of thecelebrated Hongi. Finding his dissolution fast approaching, he convened ameeting of all the neighbouring chiefs; and as many as could reach thespot in time attended. The wounded warrior expired, surrounded by the menhe had so frequently led to battle and conquest. After the numerous anddesperate risks he had run, the many encounters he had sustained withvarious enemies, it appeared extraordinary to us Europeans that he shoulddie quietly in his hut. It is the custom to keep a guarded and mysterioussilence relating to the subjects which are spoken of by a dying chief. Iquestioned several who had attended Hongi: all spoke with the greatestsolemnity of his last moments. One sentence (uttered by him) was all Icould obtain after much manoeuvring, and that was spoken but a fewminutes before he breathed his last, which was, that "Shulitea (viz. , ourfriend George) would not live one week longer than himself"; but, as ourpatron was in perfect health at the time, and all seemed peaceful aroundhim, I only laughed at the improbability of the prophecy being fulfilled. 

The natives of New Zealand pay the greatest respect to courage andwar-like talents: these were the only distinguishing characteristics ofHongi; yet, by possessing these, he was more feared, and had a greaternumber of followers, than any other chief in the island. His hereditarypossessions were but small, and his name was little known; yet hisundaunted courage, his skill, and success in many sanguinary battles, made him, at length, a most powerful chief, and obtained for him thatwhich is considered wealth in this country, namely, an immense number ofslaves. In his last moments he was attended by more men of rank than hadever before assembled to witness the dissolution of a warrior, and thisis considered the greatest proof of attention and respect one chieftaincan show towards another. 

CHAPTER XLVI. 

A TRIBAL CONFLICT. 

Our brig now sailed for Hokianga to take in a cargo of planks; and myfriend, Mr. Shand, being tired of wandering, accompanied her; but I, being still anxious to procure more sketches of this interesting country, determined to remain as long as possible, and to take one more walkacross the island, and join the brig by the time she was loaded. I waspreparing to start on my last pedestrian tour, when a chain of eventsoccurred which threw all the tribes into confusion. Bloodshed anddevastation stared me in the face from all quarters; and from the stateof security I had imagined myself to be in, I was roused to behold myselfbeset with difficulties; to crown which, our brig, which would have beena place of safety and refuge, was now on the opposite side of the island. 

Arising from a trifling circumstance, which was partly caused by us, though innocently, Pomare's only son had lost his life; and, as is usualamong savage tribes, the severest retaliation soon took place. 

By relating the particulars, the reader will perceive how easily thewar-cry is raised among these turbulent savages. 

Pomare's only surviving son. Tiki, was a very finely-formed, handsomeyoung man, of twenty years of age, and he had made an arrangement with acaptain of a ship here to supply him with a certain number of hogs. Accordingly, accompanied by a party of his friends, he started into theinterior for the purpose of collecting them. In making his selection, henot only proceeded to drive off some of his own, but actually laid claimto, and began marching away with, some belonging to his neighbours. Theright owners remonstrated with him in vain. He, being an insolent, over-bearing young fellow, persisted in his unjust claims, and set themall at defiance. They were compelled to yield up their property, as histribe was a most powerful one; and Tiki was driving away the stolen hogsin triumph, when a sudden stop was put to his predatory career. Findingwords were of no avail to induce the young man to restore the swine, oneof the injured party had recourse to a musket. A bullet, aimed frombehind a tree, killed Tiki on the spot; but from whose hand it came couldonly be conjectured. The greatest confusion instantly took place. Hiscompanions, being well armed, the war-cry was immediately raised; and thefray becoming general, seven more lives were lost. 

When the account of this melancholy affair reached our beach, everyoneflew to arms, even all the women, for the young man was a generalfavourite. The war-cry spread in every direction. "Here, " they exclaimed, "is the last of the Pomare family killed treacherously, a warrior relatedto and connected with every chief of consequence in the country, and anephew of the great Shulitea. " The cry for blood and revenge wasuniversal. I must confess that, added to the danger it placed me in, Iwas much shocked when I heard of the fate of poor Tiki, for he was one ofour particular friends, and had passed many an evening in our hut. I hadtaken leave of him only the day before, when he had set out, full ofhealth and spirits, on this hog expedition, which had terminated thusfatally. 

The death of this young man excited the highest indignation in the mindsof his countrymen, as well as in those of his numerous intimate friendsand relations; for a report was industriously circulated that he hadfallen by the hands of a slave. This was considered by his tribe as adegradation infinitely worse than the murder itself. The offended chiefsassembled on our beach, with all their followers, armed: and noneappeared more indignant at the transaction than our friend George, who, with his brother Kiney Kiney, placed themselves at the head of the party, to revenge the insult which had been offered them. 

The night before they started on this expedition, George spent theevening with us. He was in particularly low spirits, and said he did notat all like the business he was going upon: but, as he was the nearestrelation of the deceased, and the eldest of the tribe, he went in hopesof being able to prevent a great effusion of blood, and also to restrainthe impetuosity of the young men. Little did we then think he would bethe first victim; although his unusual depression of mind brought to myremembrance the prophecy of Hongi, and, spite of my endeavours to banishmy forebodings, I felt convinced that the prediction would in allprobability be fulfilled. 

Three days had elapsed from the time the avenging party had gone on theirmission, when, at midnight, a messenger, faint and nearly exhausted, arrived on our beach with the following dreadful intelligence; and thatnight no other sounds were heard than those of agony and woe, the yellingof women, and the shrieks of slaves. 

The substance of the man's information was, that George and the offendingparty had met; but, as several days had passed since the murder of theirfriend, their feelings were in some degree appeased, and they hadcontented themselves with a general plunder of whatever property theirenemies possessed. They had spared their lives, and the outrage wasconsidered as atoned for. The chiefs were on their return home, ladenwith spoil, when, like other coalesced armies, disagreements began totake place among themselves, and discord long smothered, broke out inevery quarter of the camp. 

George, the principal person of their party, was the one marked to bedissatisfied with. All were jealous of him, in consequence of hispossessions at Kororarika giving him such a decided advantage over everyother tribe, by his trade and intercourse with Europeans. It is probable, also, that as the other tribes went forth with an intention to fight, they were resolved not to be disappointed, and therefore determined tocreate a feud among themselves, rather than return home devoid of thepleasures or the trophies of a combat. 

Some irritating language had been uttered by both sides, when an accidentof a fatal nature took place, which produced an instantaneous and generalappeal to arms. At the close of the day a halt was made, as usual, andeach party began erecting their temporary huts to pass the night in. Oneof George's wives, assisted by a little boy, his nephew, was busilyengaged in constructing one; arms and baggage of every description beingstrewed about in all directions. At this period a lad took up one ofGeorge's muskets, and began to play with it; but not understanding themanagement of it, he, by his injudicious handling, accidentallydischarged the piece, and killed both the wife and nephew, the ballpassing through both their bodies. 

The sensation produced by this unfortunate accident may readily beconceived. As the woman who was killed was related to the tribe who hadbeen disputing with George all day, her death furnished an ostensiblemotive for open war; and before the real cause of the accident could beexplained, another shot was fired, which wounded a chief of the name ofMoo-de-wy in the thigh. This proved the signal for a general fight: eachparty ran to their arms, ranged themselves under their different leaders, and a general discharge of muskets immediately took place. 

Almost at the beginning of the combat George received a shot, which brokeboth his legs: his brother and friends endeavoured to support him intheir arms. It being then nearly dark, added much to the confusion, as itwas difficult to distinguish friend from foe; indeed, so sudden had beenthe onset, that many could scarcely have been aware of the cause of thecontest. But our unhappy friend, who seemed particularly marked out inthis unfortunate affray, soon after received another bullet, which struckhim on the throat, and terminated his existence; thus dying before a weekhad passed since the death of his rival Hongi. I heard from one of hisfriends who supported him in his last moments, that he died like a hero:finding both his legs were broken, and that consequently he was totallyunable to move, he begged those friends who were about him to leave himto his fate, and either again enter the fight, or make their escapewhile they yet had time. He then gave his musket to one, took off hismantle to present to another, and while thus in the act of exhorting hisfriends and distributing amongst them his tokens of regard, he receivedhis death-wound, and expired without a groan. When George fell, a generalflight took place; and though the engagement had lasted but a short time, great numbers had fallen on both sides. 

CHAPTER XLVII. 

THE DEATH OF KING GEORGE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. 

This news caused mourning and lamentation along our beach, and filled allthe Europeans with dismay. We could not calculate the extent of theinjury we might receive, but felt certain we should be considerablesufferers in some way or other. The light of day seemed to add to, ratherthan to diminish, the moans of George's faithful subjects. The violentsobbings from every dwelling were most dismal. Groups were scatteredabout, forming small crying parties, and cutting their skins deeply withknives and pieces of broken glass; in short, nothing was heard butyelling and groaning, and nothing was seen but streams of blood!

But however shocked I might feel by the train of accidents and deathswhich had made such cruel havoc amongst my friends, and notwithstandingmy sincere grief and regret for the fate of poor George, who was a mosthumane and intelligent chief, and particularly kind to all the English;the predicament in which I was now placed demanded all my energies, for Ifelt that I stood in a situation of great danger. 

I have before noticed their barbarous custom, on the death of a chief, ofplundering his family and friends. As we had always been considered as apart of George's family, living under his protection, adopted by him, and admitted into his tribe, I entertained great suspicions that we alsoshould be sufferers by the general plunder about to take place: besides, I was so circumstanced as to be obliged to cross the country with all mygoods, and my route lay through the territories of all those chiefs whohad been fighting against George; and I was at no loss to guess in whatlight they would regard me. Depending, too securely, on the generaltranquility, I had not sent my luggage by sea, as I might have done, andwhich would have saved me great anxiety, as I should have ventured alonewithout fear, but could not manage to carry what I possessed; and toengage any to convey them was an impossibility, for the moment I made theproposition to any (even the meanest of the slaves) to accompany me, theyran off into the bush, nor could any entreaty, presents, or threatsinduce them to venture with me; so, for security, I removed all theproperty I had, and went with it on board the Marianne, whaler. 

For three days after the death of George, all gave themselves up togrief; no work was done, and not an individual was to be seen but in anagony of tears. I began to feel strangely affected with melancholymyself, when, on the fourth morning, a scene of bustle took place, andlow spirits were banished by tumult, noise, and confusion. 

At six o'clock on that morning we discovered upwards of twenty sail ofwar canoes, crowded with armed warriors, coming into the bay. What theirintentions were we could not imagine; but for fear of the worst, theships in the harbour shotted their guns, and when the canoes were abreastof us, we fired a blank one over their heads. On this they all stopped, and we saw some stir amongst them: at length a very small canoe left themain body, and pulled directly towards us; it contained the chief personsof the expedition: they came on board, and assured us they meant no harmto any persons; they were merely some of the late George's friends, whowere going to pay a visit of condolence to his relations; and, aftermaking a most hearty breakfast with us, they went on shore, and weaccompanied them. 

Whether the account they gave of themselves was correct, or the reverse, we knew not at the time; but we felt assured their intentions were nothostile towards us Europeans, and their quarrels with each other we weredetermined not to interfere in. We soon discovered their falsehood, forGeorge's eldest daughter informed me that amongst the chiefs who landedwith us were several of the most inveterate foes of her father, and thatthey were only restrained from committing the most dreadful outrages, andcarrying off all her relations as slaves, by witnessing the many friendsof George by whom they were surrounded. The day was spent in savagedancing, yelling, making speeches, and debating as to who the properperson was to succeed George in his dignities: several times I thoughtthe affair would end in blows. George's relation, Rivers, made greatexertions "to keep the peace, " and finally, by force of argument, succeeded. It was at length unanimously agreed that Kiney Kiney was tosucceed his brother, and that Rivers should take the command until thetime of Kiney Kiney's mourning for the loss of George should becompleted. 

CHAPTER XLVIII. 

DEPARTURE FROM BAY OF ISLANDS. 

After these important matters were amicably disposed of, I made a sign toRivers, and, separating him from the crowd, I explained to him the natureof my situation, and asked his assistance in getting me safely over toHokianga. He replied, there would certainly be great danger in attemptingit; but I soon discovered that he magnified the difficulties in order toincrease his demand for payment, for even the greatest chiefs have heretheir price. He said (and I had every reason to think he was correct)that I ran no risk of being molested by any chiefs, like himself, whowould always protect rather than molest every European; but that thecountry being in such a state of commotion, in consequence of the lateevents, it was full of runaway slaves, who always took advantage of suchtimes to make their escape; and if I chanced to fall in with any of them, I should be exposed to great peril: "However (he added), keep up yourspirits; I have two confidential slaves, who shall conduct you over, andcarry your luggage, if you will make me a present of a stocking full ofpowder, a bag of small shot, and a powder-horn. " He also proposed, as hehimself was going to the Kirikiri, and thence to a village in theinterior, to meet a large assemblage of chiefs, in order to talk over thelate tragical events, that I should journey the first part of my waywith him, in his own canoe. 

Accordingly, after having made preparations for my departure, I tookleave of all my friends at the Bay of Islands, both civilised and savage. I must say I felt considerable regret when I found myself really going totake final leave of several native families, with whom I had been onterms of intimacy since my residence here, from whom I had received manyproofs of personal regard, and whom, I felt convinced, I should nevermeet or hear of more; none I regretted parting with more than the familyof poor Shulitea; the mere sight of me seemed to rekindle all their grieffor the loss of their kinsman, and to remind them more forcibly than everof his tragical fate. His mother, old Turero, in point of grief, hadrivalled Niobe; she had never ceased weeping and lamenting from the timeshe heard of her son's death, and had twice attempted to strangleherself. But even in the midst of her passionate sorrow, I could scarcelyrefrain from laughing, while observing her care and anxiety to get allshe could from me. After deploring the sad fate of her dear son, "Youknow, " she continued, "you promised him that you would send him ahandsome new musket from Sydney; and now, poor fellow, he is dead; andcannot shoot with it; but then you must remember that his brother KineyKiney is still alive, and he can shoot with it; and poor George wouldwish that his brother should have his new musket. " This speech I feltquite irresistible; therefore, in order to comfort the old queen, Ipromised that I would send the musket for her second son; whichdeclaration seemed to afford her great consolation, and considerablyabated the violence of her grief. 

Just at the dawn of morning we started from the bay in Rivers' canoe, accompanied by his wife, one child, and the two stout slaves he hadmentioned to me. My luggage, which consisted of one leathern portmanteauand my bed, was placed in the centre. I had also provided myself with asmall basket of cooked meat, with bread, and a small bottle of brandy, which was given me by the captain of one of the whalers. The day brokearound us with more than usual brightness; the dewy mists of night werejust rising from the waters, and the huge and abrupt forms of themountains were beginning to develop themselves; flights of wild ducks andstray birds skimmed rapidly by us. The thoughts that crowded my mind werestrange and varied, while contemplating scenes of such tranquil beauty aswere now presented, glowing with the tints of the rising sun. Icontrasted these with the difficulties and dangers I might have toencounter from hordes of ferocious savages, who, now flushed withconquest, were plotting murder and destruction against each other: even aglance at my companions banished all peaceful illusions. While the wife, son, and slaves were using the paddles with the greatest exertions, Rivers was carefully examining his weapons. The beauty of the morning andthe romantic scenery was unnoticed: his thoughts were directed solely tocontemplating the depth and the width of my stocking of powder, whichseemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. He had with him a beautifuldouble-barrelled gun, and a very good Tower musket; and seeing so manywild ducks fly past, he drew the bullet out of one of the barrels of theformer, and, with some of my stock of small shot, fired occasionallyamongst them. 

At about eight o'clock a light sea breeze sprang up: they then set theirsail, and all went to sleep, excepting one slave, who was employed tosteer the canoe; so that I had ample time to ruminate upon my solitaryand perilous situation. The tide failed us at twelve o'clock, and we thenwent on shore, kindled a fire, and soon collected such a supply ofshell-fish as furnished us a splendid repast. Here we remained till theflood-tide set in strong, when, again hoisting our sail, we arrived atthe Kirikiri about sunset. 

I here found the missionaries in the greatest consternation and dismay, and learned that it was one of the chiefs of Hokianga who had shotGeorge, and they dreaded lest the result of that deed should be that thewhole of the savage tribes on that part of the island would be opposed toeach other; that combats would ensue; and which side soever might bevictorious, it would prove equally injurious to them, as they hadsettlements on both sides of the island. But their greatest alarm wasoccasioned by their possessions at Hokianga, as the most violentdepredations were there being committed; and as this was the very pointof my destination, the news was not very consolatory to me. "So anxious, "said one of "the brethren" to me, "were we to inform our Christianbrethren of our danger, that we actually gave a _warm piece_ to a nativeto carry a letter over to you, although that is strictly contrary to ourorders. " I expressed a desire to know what he meant by a _warm piece_; hekicked his foot against the stock of a gun I had at the time in my hand;and, looking at me with an expression of the greatest contempt, said, "Itis what _you worldly_ folks call a musket!"

They were making considerable preparations to repair to the great meetingof the chiefs, to which Rivers was journeying. This was a wise andpolitic measure for them to pursue; and they were highly delighted tohave such an addition to their party as this well-known chief; and thoughthey would not acknowledge it, their satisfaction was very visible. Iearnestly requested them to inform me candidly, from all they had heard, whether they thought I might, with safety, venture across the country;but I could get nothing from them but vague and mysterious answers: onething, however, they made me very clearly understand; which was, thatthey neither cared for me nor for my drawings; that their own safetyengrossed all their thoughts; and that a worldly-minded, misguidedcreature like me was but as dust in the balance, compared to such godlypeople as themselves, who were now placed in jeopardy. They, withoutscruple, applied quotations from the Scriptures to themselves, such as, "Why do the heathen so furiously rage, " etc. , etc. 

My necessities compelled me to request a favour from them, which was, that they would allow one of their boys, who could speak English, toaccompany me, as our loads were heavy; and his being known to belong totheir establishment I thought might be some protection; but the shortanswer of the monosyllable "_No_" soon made me repent having asked it. Ispread my bed in one of their empty rooms; and started at daybreak nextmorning, with my two native slaves. I could not banish from myremembrance the inhospitable conduct of these missionaries; they nevereven inquired whether I had any provision for a journey they themselveswould not have dared to undertake, which was evident by their giving anative a _warm piece_ for merely taking a letter for them. As my shoeswere nearly worn out, and I had a long distance to go, over execrableroads, I had intended asking them for a new pair, as they had abundanceof everything of the kind sent to them from England, to distribute to theneedy (and I fully came under that description of character); but findingthem so selfish and cold-hearted, and meeting with one refusal, Irefrained, and set off, literally almost barefooted. 

CHAPTER XLIX. 

THE JOURNEY TO HOKIANGA. 

We journeyed on all day by a road I had never been before, my attendantsevidently taking by-paths to avoid meeting stragglers or runaways. I waswell laden, having to carry my musket and my basket of provisions; andeach of my men, in addition to the loads I had placed on his shoulders, bore a basket of potatoes. Once or twice, during our route, we saw somepersons at a distance, and I was sorry to notice the great alarm itoccasioned to my companions, as I now had every reason to apprehend, that, in case of danger, they would slip off their burdens, make theirescape, and leave me and my baggage to my fate, which the missionarieshad told me they considered a thing very likely to happen. Once we hearda great firing of muskets, which I afterwards ascertained to be the _feude joie_ fired at the first meeting of the chiefs, at their grandassembling in the neutral village. 

At night, we arrived safe at Patuone's Village, where I had slept on myfirst journey across the island; but it now presented a very differentappearance to what it had done then; instead of the tumult I had formerlyheard, all was silence; the numerous families then there, all fullyoccupied, were exchanged for a few old surly-looking slaves, and thehuts were all deserted. The inhabitants, in consequence of the rumour ofapproaching war, having betaken themselves to one of their fortified pas, I had no alternative but to pass the night with these suspicious-lookingcreatures, who, feeling themselves beyond the control of their cruelmasters, soon gave way to their own vile passions, and became mostimpertinent and intrusive--taking every advantage of my loneliness toindulge their curiosity and familiarity. 

On my arrival, I had deposited my things in one of the empty huts, andspread my bed, hoping to enjoy the luxury of a few hours' repose afterthe fatigue and great anxieties of the day; but these fellows would forcethemselves into the hut I had chosen, where they lighted a fire, and satchattering around it all the night long. Finding that I did not appearalarmed at their intrusion or noise, they kept doing everything theycould think of to rouse my fears. They threatened to break open myportmanteau; and one old wretch sharpened his knife, and made motions asthough he were going to cut my throat and eat me. I knew my only chanceof safety was not to betray any sign of apprehension; so I forced alaugh, and made them believe I considered their tricks an excellent joke. I gave them all my tobacco to keep them in good humour; but I passed amost miserable night, nearly suffocated with smoke, distracted with theirnoise, and annoyed by vermin of every description. 

I was most happy when daybreak gave me an excuse for leaving these brutalsavages, and resuming my journey. Every step I took brought before meproofs of the horrors of war: villages which had been crowded, were nowentirely desolate, and, in many instances, burned to the ground. On thatspot where I had left a party of enterprising Scotchmen busily employedin sawing timber, with crowds of natives assisting them, all was quietand totally deserted, with the exception of a few nearly starved, wretched-looking dogs, who, hearing someone approach, came out, and triedto bark at us, but were too weak to utter a sound. 

CHAPTER L. 

EUROPEAN PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. 

Our march along the banks of the river was through a most beautifulcountry; but all the inhabitants had fled; their plantations were in amost luxuriant state; fields which I had left bare and uncultivated werenow covered with Indian corn standing higher than my head, the ripe earshanging fantastically in all directions, and none to gather in theharvest; the crops of kumara and potatoes were equally abundant. I couldnot help thinking that, if they expected an invasion of their enemies, they had left an ample supply of forage for their use. In the evening Iarrived at Horeke, or Deptford Dock-yard (of which I made mention in myfirst journey). I here found my countrymen in a state of considerableembarrassment. The various chiefs of that district had encamped all roundthem; so near to them had they taken up their position, that, whatevermight be the result of their battles, the European settlement would be indanger. The settlers had fortified their place of refuge in the bestmanner they could; and all were determined to defend themselves andproperty to the last. They had four nine-pounders mounted on a hill, anda tolerable battery made of three-inch pine stuff. 

Before the English erected their fortifications, there was a greatdifference of opinion amongst them as to the propriety and utility ofadopting so strong a measure, and the affair was finally put to the vote, when the majority proved to be in favour of a strong resistance. Iopposed the measure all I could, for I felt convinced that in the eventof our allies being worsted we all should be involved in one commonmassacre; whereas, if no resistance was made, plunder alone would havebeen the extent of the injury we should suffer; and even of that takingplace I had strong doubts. However, as my opinion was overruled, I had tosubmit, which I did unhesitatingly; and, like a good soldier, I heldmyself in readiness in case of an attack. 

The proprietor and manager of the Dock-yard possessed certainly a"satisfying reason" for striving to defend himself at all hazards. Thevessel I had left here, on my former visit, in frame, was now nearlycompleted, and a most beautiful one she was. He told me he would muchrather part with life than see her destroyed; and I confess I could fullyenter into his feelings on the subject; but as I had no such object atstake, and was not quite enthusiastic enough to fight for a vessel I hadno share in, I felt very much inclined to let the natives war amongthemselves without interference; but as we Europeans had agreed to assisteach other, I would not be behind-hand. 

I discharged Rivers' two slaves, and rewarded them liberally forconducting me with safety through such a wild and perilous country; theydeparted (after expressing the heartiest wishes for my reaching my ownhome in safety, and thanks for my generosity) to join their master at thegreat meeting of the chiefs in the interior. These men, while assistingme, were performing a great service to their master, by acting as spies. When we started from the Kirikiri each was armed with a musket; but whenwe had accomplished about half the journey, they concealed these in ahollow tree, under pretence of extreme fatigue. I felt convinced at thetime that was not their real reason for so doing; and afterwards Ilearned the true motive. Had they been found armed when returning totheir master (who was hostile to those assembled round the Dock-yard), they would have been detained; but, by their coming unarmed amongst us, they were suffered to depart; and I have no doubt the information theycarried back to Rivers was very important. I did not mention to anyonethe hiding of these muskets in the woods, though, according to "TheArticles of War, " I ought to have done so, as getting possession of themwould have added two more to our strength, and lessened that of ourenemy; my silence arose from a repugnance I felt to betray these poorcreatures, who had behaved so well to me. 

Although prepared for war, we were very well pleased to find no attackwas made upon us. Indeed, from the first, it had been my decided opinion, that unless we interfered, and made ourselves by that means obnoxious, they had too much respect for us, and were too anxious to retain ourkindly feelings towards them, to molest us; at the same time, I felt thatit might be a very politic measure to show them what powerful resistancewe could make, if driven to extremities. 

After passing a week of the greatest anxiety, on account of our expectedinvasion, it afforded us the utmost satisfaction to receive a visit fromMr. Hobbs, the Wesleyan missionary, one of the persons who had visitedthe war-camp of the assembled chiefs, who were convened, on the death ofour lamented friend George, to debate and decide upon the momentousquestion of peace or war. 

The subject (our informant stated) had been gone into at great length, and stormy and fierce had been the discussion. Finally, the good sense ofthe elder and more experienced chiefs prevailed over the fiercer passionsof the younger, and peace was decided upon. This event forms a new era in"The Political History of the Few Zealanders, " it being the first time sogreat an assemblage had met to discuss openly a national question, or inwhich they had allowed cool reasoning and good sense to prevail overtheir habitual ferocity. As may naturally be supposed, where such variousinterests were at stake, this pacific measure was not effected withoutconsiderable opposition from the young and furious chiefs. Theprovocations given by them to the elders, whose voices were for peace, were considerable. They did not confine themselves to abuse, but firedseveral muskets during debate, in hopes that one shot out of the manymight prove fatal; which, if it had, and any distinguished chief had beenkilled, or even wounded, it would have immediately thrown all intoconfusion. Even when pacific measures were decided upon by a very largemajority, and the chiefs were about to separate, a bullet was fired fromthe pa, which had evidently been aimed at a chief, a well-known ally ofthe late Shulitea, as it fell at his feet, and the earth it threw up fellupon him. For a few seconds surprise kept all silent; but, as the angrychief rose up, and was about to address the crowd, his friends eagerlysurrounded him, and hurried him away. 

This was the first instance on record, in which these people had laid astatement of their private wrongs before a public assembly consisting ofdeputies from every part of the island, and abided by the decision of themajority; and it was the only instance of a chief being killed in battle, and his decease not having been followed up by the plundering anddestruction of his whole family or tribe. 

This had been a question of peculiar interest to us Europeans, as severalof their great men had fallen in a skirmish (whether an accidental one ora decided combat made not the slightest difference). We knew theirbarbarous custom; and, consequently, we were preparing for scenes ofdeadly revenge and insatiable fury to be acted by both parties, and whichmust have involved all settled here in destruction. Our feelings maytherefore be imagined, when we were informed that a parliament had beenconvened, and all the parties interested were present by invitation, andtook part in the debate. A central spot was fixed on to accommodate thevarious chieftains. The causes of the accident were then explained; theywept and lamented the fallen chiefs, and finally retired satisfied totheir several homes. Surely everyone who is interested in tracing our ownform of government, from the present time up to its first rude outline, will perceive the similarity of causes and events, and will anticipatethe glorious prospect of beholding a clever, brave, and, I may add, noblerace of men, like the New Zealanders, rescued from barbarism. Thispacific and rational discussion among the chiefs seems, in reality, togive promise of the germ of a regular reform. Should a few more suchmeetings take place, and terminate in the same amicable manner (and Ithink it very probable), some clever individual may rise up amongst them, take the reins in his own hands, and establish something like a regularform of government. 

CHAPTER LI. 

OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS OF THE MAORIS. 

Feeling that I was not likely now to be called upon to act offensively, Iconsidered myself at liberty to make numerous excursions round ourfortress, not only to admire this fertile and beautiful country, but tovisit some of my old friends. I was very much astonished and shocked atseeing several very beautiful young women, whom I left only a few monthsback in perfect health and strength, now reduced to mere "livingskeletons, " and also to hear of the death of others by consumption. Thisdisease seems to be the scourge of the young; and when they are onceseized with its symptoms, they are very speedily brought to the grave. The natives say, "It is Atua, the Great Spirit, coming into them, andeating up their inside; for the patient can feel those parts gradually goaway, and then they become weaker and weaker till no more is left; afterwhich the Spirit sends them to the happy island. " They never attempt anymeans of curing or of alleviating the pains caused by this cruelcomplaint; and all those under its influence are tabooed. I procured fromthe brig all my remaining stores of tapioca, sago, arrowroot, and sugar, and distributed them in the best way I could amongst my sick friends. They were anxious for wine; but that portion of my sea-stock, as well asspirits, had been long since expended. 

It seems unaccountable that the natives of an atmosphere so dry as thisis--a country in which there are no marshy bogs, and where, though thereis an abundance of water, it is generally seen in clear and sparklingrills rushing down from the mountains into the rivers--should be subjectto so fatal a disease as galloping consumption. The only cause to which Ican attribute such an affliction is, their indifference to lying out allnight exposed to every change of weather--to cold and rain--which, inyoung and tender constitutions, must produce the most perniciousconsequences. If some few are rendered hardy and robust by this process, many, no doubt, are killed by it. I endeavoured to impress on the mindsof all my female friends the great danger of thus exposing themselves tocold; but they only laughed at my precautions, and said, "If Atua wishedit, so it must be; they could not strive with the Great Spirit. "

I have heard so much said about the great impropriety of the whitesettlers admitting the native females into their society, so much of thescandalous conduct of captains of ships suffering their men to havesweethearts during their stay in port, and so much urged in justificationof the indignation shown by the missionaries when this subject is touchedon by them, that I feel it necessary to state one decided benefit whichhas resulted from that intercourse, and which, in my opinion, far morethan counterbalances the evil against which there has been raised so loudan outcry. 

Before our intercourse took place with the New Zealanders, a universaland unnatural custom existed amongst them, which was that of destroyingmost of their female children in infancy, their excuse being that theywere quite as much trouble to rear, and consumed just as much food, as amale child, and yet, when grown up, they were not fit to go to war astheir boys were. The strength and pride of a chief then consisted in thenumber of his sons; while the few females who had been suffered to livewere invariably looked down upon by all with the utmost contempt. Theyled a life of misery and degradation. The difference now is mostremarkable. The natives, seeing with what admiration strangers beheldtheir fine young women, and what handsome presents were made to them, bywhich their families were benefited, feeling also that their influencewas so powerful over the white men, have been latterly as anxious tocherish and protect their infant girls as they were formerly cruelly benton destroying them. Therefore, if one sin has been, to a certain degree, encouraged, a much greater one has been annihilated. Infanticide, theformer curse of this country, and the cause of its scanty population, acrime every way calculated to make men bloody-minded and ferocious, andto stifle every benevolent and tender feeling, has totally disappearedwherever an intercourse has taken place between the natives and the crewsof European vessels. 

The New Zealand method of "courtship and matrimony" is a mostextraordinary one; so much so, that an observer could never imagine anyaffection existed between the parties. A man sees a woman whom he fancieshe should like for a wife; he asks the consent of her father, or, if anorphan, of her nearest relation, which, if he obtains, he carries his"intended" off by force, she resisting with all her strength; and, as theNew Zealand girls are generally pretty robust, sometimes a dreadfulstruggle takes place; both are soon stripped to the skin, and it issometimes the work of hours to remove the fair prize a hundred yards. Ifshe breaks away, she instantly flies from her antagonist, and he has hislabour to commence again. We may suppose that if the lady feels any wishto be united to her would-be spouse, she will not make too violent anopposition; but it sometimes happens that she secures her retreat intoher father's house, and the lover loses all chance of ever obtaining her;whereas, if he can manage to carry her in triumph into his own, sheimmediately, becomes his wife. The women have a decided aversion tomarriage, which can scarcely be wondered at, when we consider how theyare circumstanced. While they remain single, they enjoy all theprivileges of the other sex; they may rove where they please, and bestowtheir favours on whom they choose, and are entirely beyond control orrestraint; but when married their freedom is at an end; they become mereslaves, and sink gradually into domestic drudges to those who have thepower of life and death over them; and whether their conduct be criminalor exemplary, they are equally likely to receive a blow, in a moment ofpassion, of sufficient force to end life and slavery together! There aremany exceptions to this frightful picture; and I saw several old couples, who had been united in youth, who had always lived in happiness together, and whose kind and friendly manner towards each other set an example wellworthy of imitation in many English families. 

CHAPTER LII. 

A MAORI TANGI. 

April 2nd. --This day, perceiving that an unusual number of canoes werepassing up the river, all proceeding towards the village of Par-Finneigh, we hailed one; and, upon its coming alongside, we inquired what hadoccurred, for every appearance of bustle or commotion amongst thisrestless and war-like people is truly alarming. They informed us that thegreat chief A-Rowa, who died four months since, and the ceremony of whose"lying in state" I had been permitted by his eldest son to be a witnessof, was this day to be exposed to the view of his friends; was to becried over; and was finally to be deposited in the tomb of his ancestors. As this was one of their imposing spectacles which I had never yet seen, I was anxious to witness it. We soon got a boat ready, and a party of usjoined the throng, and proceeded with them to the village. Upon ourarrival thither, we found an immense concourse of people assembled; forhere, as in most uncivilised or early states of society, the dispositionand good qualities of the deceased are made known by the number offriends and followers who meet at his funeral. As these New Zealanderswere all fully equipped in arms, they had more the appearance of ahostile meeting in an enemy's camp, than of a group of mourners about tobe occupied in the melancholy duty of depositing out of sight for everthe last remains of a beloved chief. 

Mooetara, the son and successor of the deceased, came to meet us on thebeach, and seemed much gratified by our attention, our appearance on thissolemn occasion giving him importance in the eyes of all the natives thenassembled. He gave orders for our being conducted with much ceremony tothe place of mourning, where, amidst a number of uncouth pieces ofcarving (which, we were informed were all tombs reared in honour of thememory of several former chiefs, and all tabooed), was erected a smallhut, covered in at the top with thatch, but open at the sides. In thecentre of this hut the bones of the deceased chief were exposed to view. After having undergone the process of decomposition during four months'exposure to heat, wind, and rain, they had been collected, cleaned, anddecorated with a quantity of fresh white feathers, which rendered theappearance of the skull still more frightful. 

The women here invariably perform the parts of chief mourners; a group ofthem, with the widow of the deceased at their head, kept up a mostmournful cadence, and at every pause in their dismal song slashed theirskins with a piece of shell, till their faces, necks, and arms wereliterally streaming down with blood. This mourning and cutting iscompletely a matter of business, and is sometimes carried on withouttheir feeling any real sorrow or sympathy. Parties kept arriving, andwhen there was not room for them to thrust themselves round the hut, theysat down in groups, perfectly unconcerned, employing themselves incleaning their firelocks, or playing off upon each other some practicaljoke; but the moment a vacant space was presented near the hut, theydeliberately stripped themselves, put on a most sorrowful countenance, and, seating themselves as near to the ornamented bones as possible, theyimmediately began their howling and slashing; no one seemed to like theidea of being outdone by his neighbour; but when the time allotted tothis ceremony had expired, all instantly jumped up, wiped themselves, puton their mats, and joined the busy throng. There was, indeed, one realmourner, who never moved from the bones, nor once lifted up her eyes fromthem; she neither howled nor cut herself, and yet she inspired me withpity and commiseration for her forlorn state. This woman had been theonly wife of the late chief; and I was informed they had lived many yearstogether, and had a large family; she looked as if she herself was on thevery brink of the grave. The contemplation of the mouldering remains ofher partner through life must have been, even to her savage mind, mostlacerating. 

After witnessing several parties perform their funeral ceremonies, andimbibing, in some degree, the melancholy tone of mind such a sight mustnecessarily create, we arose and joined Mooetara. Here I witnessed ascene that reminded me of an English country fair. An immense number oftemporary huts had been erected for the accommodation of the chiefs andtheir families, where they might repose after their exertions, whiletheir slaves cooked their provisions, of which an abundant quantity hadbeen provided, consisting of piles of kumara and Indian corn, with heapsof fish, which were served out, to all who came for them, with a mostliberal hand, and which, of course, added not a little to the pleasure ofthe day. After all had satisfied their hunger (and even the lowest slaveswere permitted, on this occasion, to have as much as they wished for)they jumped up, flew to their muskets, and commenced their war dance withgreat noise and vigour. The violence of their exertions caused theirrecent wounds to bleed afresh, and added much to the horror of theirhideous grimaces. They then divided into two parties, and had a shambattle. I must here do justice to the temperate habits of my savagefriends. During my residence in New Zealand, I have known but very fewwho were addicted to drinking, and I scarcely ever saw one of them in astate of intoxication; and, on this occasion, where a profusion of whatthey esteem delicacies was provided gratuitously, they partook somoderately of the tempting fare as not to be prevented using the mostviolent exertions immediately after their meal. The entertainment beingnow over, the different parties gathered up what remained of the portionsof food distributed to them, and without taking any leave of theirentertainer, or returning any thanks for his bountiful providing, theyall entered their canoes and paddled away. 

CHAPTER LIII. 

CHARACTER OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS. 

An unfortunate prejudice has gone forth into the world against thenatives of New Zealand, which I have always endeavoured to counteractfrom a sense of justice, and, from a careful review of thosecircumstances which have fallen immediately under my own observation;this prejudice has long retarded our knowledge of their true character, but error must gradually give way to truth; and as the circumstanceswhich first brought the stigma upon their name come to light, and areinvestigated and properly explained, I feel confident the conduct ofthese islanders will be found superior to that of any other nation in theSouth Seas. If we take the whole catalogue of dreadful massacres theyhave been charged with, and (setting aside partiality for our owncountrymen) allow them to be carefully examined, it will be found that wehave invariably been the aggressors; and when we have given serious causeof offence, can we be so irrational as to express astonishment that asavage should seek revenge? The last massacre was that of "The Boyd's"crew; every impartial person who reads the account of that melancholytransaction must acknowledge the unfortunate captain was most to blame. But that event took place nineteen years back; since which time they knowus better, and respect us more; in proof of which, four years since, TheMercury brig was taken possession of by a crowd of natives, after theyhad endured a series of offences and every kind of ill-treatment; but thedifference in their fate, compared with that of The Boyd's ship'scompany, was remarkable, and proved that the savage temper of the nativeswas much softened down and humanised, as they merely plundered thevessel, but made no attempt to murder or molest any of the crew, who, ifthey had possessed sufficient courage, would not have sacrificed theirvessel; but, being terrified, they abandoned her, and she was finallywrecked. During my residence, I never heard of one of the men having beenmurdered; and I feel fully convinced no massacres will ever again becommitted in any of the ports in New Zealand where European vessels havebeen accustomed to anchor. 

I once saw, with indignation, a chief absolutely knocked overboard from awhaler's deck by the mate. Twenty years ago so gross an insult would havecost the lives of every individual on board the vessel, but, at the timethis occurred, it was only made the subject of complaint, and finallybecame a cause of just remonstrance with the commander of the whaler. Thenatives themselves (and I have heard the opinions of various tribes) haveinvariably told me that these things occurred from our want of knowledgeof their laws and customs, which compelled them to seek revenge. "Itwas, " they said, "no act of treachery on our part; we did not invite youto our shores for the purpose of plunder and murder: but you came, andill-used us; you broke into our tabooed grounds. And did not Atua givethose bad white men into the hands of our fathers?"

I am confident that a body of Europeans may now reside in perfectsecurity in any part of these islands. The late plundering of themissionaries at Whangaroa was a peculiar circumstance, which might havehappened even in civilised Europe, had the seat of war approached so neartheir place of residence. If their houses and chapel had been on theplains of Waterloo during the June of 1815 they would not haveexperienced a better fate. 

This recent tumult has brought a circumstance into notice highlyinteresting to all who may hereafter wish to settle here. It has hithertobeen their custom, when an accident occurs, such as the sudden death of achief, to make a general plunder of everything belonging to the family ofthe deceased, and all under their protection. A knowledge of thishorrible custom has deterred many from settling in New Zealand; and eventhose who have resolved to run so great a risk have lived in a continuedstate of alarm, lest the death of their protecting chief should leavethem at the mercy of a savage enemy. 

The deaths of Hongi and Shulitea placed the missionaries and all thesettlers on Kororarika Beach in considerable jeopardy: but it appeared asif reason had begun to dawn on the minds of these benighted savages, forthis unjust and cruel custom was now for the first time discontinued. Iwas on the beach at the time when an immense party, well armed, came forthe express purpose of satiating their revengeful feelings. I had takenthe precaution of removing what I possessed on board a whaler then lyingin the harbour. The chiefs first sat down to discuss the matter overamongst themselves, and their deliberations ended in their beingsatisfied with destroying the village of Matowe, the one adjoining ours, and which had been the residence of Pomare's son, whose death was thecause of all the late turbulent events. 

The great and leading defect in this country, and the principal cause oftheir frequent wars and disturbances, which harass and depopulate thetribes, and puts a stop to all improvement, is the want of some regularsystem of government. There are only two classes of people--chiefs andslaves; and, as consanguinity constitutes a high claim, the eldest son ofa large family, who can bring the greatest number of warriors of his ownname into the field, is considered the chief of that district or tribe;and as he, by reason of his followers, can take possession of thegreatest number of prisoners or slaves, he becomes the ruling man. Everyother man of his tribe considers himself on an equality with him ineverything, except that he shows him obedience, and follows him tobattle. 

Each is independent in his own family, and holds uncontrolled power oflife and death over every individual it contains. They seem not toexercise any coercion over the younger branches of a family, who areallowed unbounded liberty till the girls have sweethearts and the boysare strong enough to go to war. They are kind and hospitable tostrangers, and are excessively fond of their children. On a journey, itis more usual to see the father carrying his infant than the mother; andall the little offices of a nurse are performed by him with the tenderestcare and good humour. In many instances (wherein they differ from mostsavage tribes) I have seen the wife treated as an equal and companion. Infact, when not engaged in war, the New Zealander is quite a domestic, cheerful, harmless character; but once rouse his anger, or turn him intoridicule, and his disposition is instantly changed. A being, whosepassions have never been curbed from infancy, and whose only notion ofwhat he conceives to be his right is to retaliate for an offence withblood, must naturally form a cruel and vindictive character. Such theseislanders seemed to us on our first visiting them. The sight of beings soextraordinary (for thus we Europeans must have appeared to them) excitedin their savage minds the greatest wonder; and they thought we were sentas a scourge and an enemy; and though Cook, one of their earliestvisitors, adopted every method his ingenuity could devise to conciliatethem, yet, as they never could thoroughly understand his intentions, theywere always on the alert to attack him. Hence arose the horror anddisgust expressed formerly at the mere mention of the name of "a NewZealander. "

I have often tried, in vain, to account for there being such a decideddissimilarity between the natives of New Holland and New Zealand. Sotrifling is the difference in their situation on the globe, and so_similar their climates_--both having remained so long unknown to thegreat continents, and so devoid of intercourse with the rest of theworld--that one would be led to imagine a great resemblance must be theresult. But the natives of the former seem of the lowest grade--the lastlink in the great chain of existence which unites man with the monkey. Their limbs are long, thin, and flat, with large bony knees and elbows, aprojecting forehead, and pot-belly. The mind, too, seems adapted to thismean configuration; they have neither energy, enterprise, nor industry;and their curiosity can scarcely be excited. A few exceptions may be metwith; but these are their general characteristics. While the natives ofthe latter island are "cast in beauty's perfect mould;" the children areso fine and powerfully made, that each might serve as a model for astatue of "the Infant Hercules;" nothing can exceed the graceful andathletic forms of the men, or the rounded limbs of their young women. These possess eyes beautiful and eloquent, and a profusion of long, silky, curling hair; while the intellects of both sexes seem of asuperior order; all appear eager for improvement, full of energy, andindefatigably industrious, and possessing amongst themselves several artswhich are totally unknown to their neighbours. 

CHAPTER LIV. 

THE SETTLEMENT AND TRADE OF HOKIANGA. 

On April the 14th, our brig being stored with planks, flax, and potatoes, and ready for sea, I went on board of her. We had fine weather till wedropped down to the entrance of the river, where we intended taking inour stock of water for the voyage, when the scene suddenly changed, and asevere gale came on, right out to sea, which we could not avail ourselvesof; neither could we get the water off, as our rafts of casks got adriftin the attempt to get them on board. To add to our disasters, one of ourcables parted, and we had to ride out the gale (of two days' continuance)with one only, the sea rolling heavily right open before us, and we inmomentary expectation of the remaining cable's going; we had not a singleday's allowance of water on board, and at one period all hands (exceptthe carpenter and passengers) were out of the brig, on shore, filling thecasks. Fortunately for us, the cable proved a tough one; had it parted, we should have been in a most perilous situation. 

April 20th. --For the last week we were stationary at the river's mouth, waiting for a fair wind to carry us over the bar; and during that timethere was no appearance of any change; we also heard that vessels hadbeen detained here for six weeks before they could accomplish it. Wewere visited daily by parties of natives, who seemed to rejoice at ourbeing delayed, as it gave them more of our company than they hadcalculated upon. They were more delighted with our society than we werewith theirs; in a small vessel they are a serious nuisance, on account ofthe swarms of vermin they bring with them, and which they communicateliberally to all. Myself and all the passengers on board had our leisuretime fully occupied in dislodging these "little familiars" from theirstrongholds in different parts of our apparel. 

During the time we were lying here, I saw and conversed with severalindividuals who had attended the "Great Meeting, " and their accounts gaverise to various opinions respecting the policy of supplying the nativeswith firearms. As I had always been an advocate for the measure, I wasgratified by hearing that it was thought to be in consequence of eachparty's being possessed of a nearly equal quantity of muskets, that ageneral and exterminating war was avoided. Some may suppose that similartranquility would have been preserved, had they been equally wellsupplied with their native weapons of war; but that would not have beenthe case. When they found that each party could furnish forth the samenumber of European muskets, they paused, well knowing that it wascontrary to the wish of all the white settlers that they should proceedto hostilities. Indeed, Europeans intrepidly mingled amongst them, urgingthem to a reconciliation, and threatening that, if they failed in theirendeavours, the supplies of arms and ammunition should be discontinued. This threat had its desired effect on the minds of the natives; no bloodwas spilt, and each chief returned quietly to his own home. 

On the night we heard of the death of George and his wife, "Revenge andwar" was the universal cry. His party would not believe that it could bean accident, nor would they hear of any apology being received. At thistime they imagined the tribes of Hokianga were possessed of but very fewfirearms; and, as the skirmish took place in that district, it wasdetermined that an exterminating war should be carried into the heart ofit. However, before all the preparations could be made to carry theirintentions into effect, they received certain information that the peopleof Hokianga were even better supplied with muskets than those of the Bayof Islands. This intelligence occasioned an assemblage of the differenttribes to be proposed, and when it took place the friends of George sawtheir opponents so well prepared for the "tug of war" that they deemed itjudicious to come forward and to shake hands and to acknowledge that thedeath of Shulitea proceeded either from accident or mistake. A curiouscircumstance took place in the midst of their debate. An old chief, whowished for a fight, and did not approve of the introduction of firearms, but was an advocate for the old method of New Zealand warfare, proposedthat each party should send away _all_ their muskets and ammunition, andengage manfully with their own native weapons, and then it could beeasily proved which were the "best men;" but this mode of settling thedispute, not being agreeable to the majority, was instantly negatived, and treated with disdain. 

The colony of Scotch carpenters, who had formed a settlement at the headof the river, and of whom I made "honourable mention" on my firstjourney, finding themselves so close to what they feared might becomethe seat of war, and having no means whatever of defending themselves, made an arrangement with Mooetara, the chief of Parkunugh (which issituated at the entrance of the same river), and placed themselves underhis protection. They accordingly moved down here, which gave greatsatisfaction to that chief. Neither could their former protector, Patuone, feel offended at their removal, from the peculiar nature of thecircumstances they were placed in. These hardy North Britons weredelighted to find a reasonable excuse for moving, their formerestablishment being situated too far from the sea for them to reap anyadvantage from ships coming into port. Nothing can be more gratifyingthan to behold the great anxiety of the natives to induce Englishmen tosettle amongst them; it ensures their safety; and no one act of treacheryis on record of their having practised towards those whom they hadinvited to reside with them. 

Mooetara is a man of great property and high rank, and is considered avery proud chief by the natives; yet he is to be seen every day workingas hard as any slave in assisting in the erection of houses for theaccommodation of his new settlers. He has actually removed from his oldvillage of Parkunugh (a strong and beautiful place), and is erecting hutsfor his tribe near the spot chosen by his new friends; so that, in a veryshort time, a barren point of land, hitherto without a vestige of a humanhabitation, will become a thriving and populous village, for it isincredible how quickly the orders of these chiefs are carried intoeffect. I was frequently a witness to the short space of time they tookto erect their houses; and, though small, they are tight, weather-proof, and warm: their storehouses are put together in the most substantial andworkmanlike manner. 

It is very difficult to make the New Zealanders explain the nature oftheir religious belief. One superstition seems general with all thetribes respecting the formation of the world, or, rather, of their ownisland, for that is the place of the first importance in theirestimation. They say a man, or a god, or some great spirit, was fishingin his war-canoe, and pulled up a large fish, which instantly turned intoan island; and a lizard came upon that, and brought up a man out of thewater by his long hair; and he was the father of all the New Zealanders. Almost all their grotesque carvings are illustrations of this idea insome way or other. The favourite theme on which (I observed) themissionaries discoursed to them were "the torments of hell. " This hasbecome a subject of ridicule to most of the natives; they do not denythat there may be such a place, but they add, it is not for them, for ifAtua had intended it so he would have sent them word about it long beforehe sent the white men into their country; and they conclude by statingthat they know perfectly well the situation of the island where they areto go to after this life. 

CHAPTER LV. 

MASSACRE OF A SCHOONER'S CREW. 

While remaining here wind-bound, in imaginary security, and amusingourselves with noticing the curious customs and peculiarities of theseislanders, a dreadful tragedy was taking place only a few miles' distancefrom us, and to which I before alluded, when I mentioned crossing the baron our first arrival from Port Jackson. The Enterprise schooner, a veryfine vessel, which was built at the settlement on this river, had beensent to Sydney, and while we were lying there we were in hourlyexpectation of her return. She did return. The unfavourable weather whichdetained us so long proved fatal to her, and she was wrecked a few milesto the northward of the river's mouth, and every soul on board perished. 

The moment this catastrophe was known every European hastened to thespot, and, with feelings of horror, perceived but too plainly, from theappearance of the wreck and the boat, and by finding also the clothes ofthe crew, that they had reached the shore in safety, and had afterwardsall been murdered; but how, or by whom, it was impossible to discover. The most probable conclusion was that the tribes situated around theEuropean dockyard at Hokianga, having meditated for some time past agreat war-like expedition, waited the return of this schooner from Sydneyto possess themselves of an additional supply of arms and ammunition, which might enable them to take the field with a certainty of conquest. They had regularly purchased the cargo of this vessel by their labourand their merchandise, and the schooner was merely employed to convey itthither from Sydney, for the use of the natives; unhappily for the poorcreatures on board, in running for the mouth of the river, she fell toleeward, and got stranded on the beach, in the very territory of thattribe against whom these preparations were made--the tribe intended to beinvaded. Though no formal declaration of war had taken place, the tribeswell knew the preparations that were making against them, and the natureof the cargo contained in The Enterprise; falling into the hands of suchfierce and vindictive savages, the fate of the crew may be imagined--allour poor fellows were sacrificed to gratify their feelings of revenge. 

Mooetara (the friendly chief of Hokianga) no sooner heard of the fate ofthe vessel and her crew than he hastened with his party to the spot; itwas owing to the investigation which then took place that the conclusionwas arrived at that all had been murdered. What remained for Mooetara todo (according to their savage notion of what was right) was to take amplerevenge on all the hostile tribes that might fall in his way, whether ourpoor countrymen met their deaths through accident or treachery. Mooetarainstantly commenced the work of destruction; and, having made hisvengeance complete, he returned laden with spoil. The promptness withwhich he acted on this melancholy occasion greatly increased the feelingsof security possessed by those Englishmen settled on the banks of theriver, as it proved to them that he was both able and willing to protectthem, and though the dead could not be restored, yet he had inflicted anawful punishment on their murderers. 

CHAPTER LVI. 

FAREWELL TO NEW ZEALAND. 

On the 21st a fair wind and smooth sea favoured our departure. Early inthe morning the natives who were on board assured us everything wouldfacilitate our passing over the bar with safety, and they prepared toleave the ship. When the moment of separation came, it caused a greatdeal of emotion on both sides. I must confess I felt much affected when Icame to rub noses, shake hands, and say "Farewell" to these kind-heartedpeople. I saw them go over the ship's side, and reflected that I shouldnever behold them more. There is always something repugnant to ourfeelings in the idea of separating from any being for ever; and as, inthis instance, I felt assured that this was our last time of meeting, itcast a gloom over the pleasure the fair wind and smooth sea wouldotherwise have afforded me. As we fell down towards the river's mouth, and, indeed, as long as their canoes were to be seen, they kept wavingtheir hands towards us. 

Thus terminated my visit to the islands of New Zealand. I had arrivedwith feelings of fear and disgust, and was merely induced to take up atemporary residence amongst the natives, in hopes of finding somethingnew for my pencil in their peculiar and picturesque style of life. I leftthem with opinions, in many respects, very favourable towards them. Itis true, they are cunning and over-reaching in trade, and filthy in theirpersons. In regard to the former, we Europeans, I fear, set them a badexample; of the latter, they will gradually amend. Our short visit toKororarika greatly improved them in that particular. All took great painsto come as clean as possible when they attended our "eveningtea-parties. " In my opinion, their sprightly, free, and independentdeportment, together with their kindness and attention to strangers, compensates for many defects. 

On looking round upon their country, an Englishman cannot fail to feelgratified when he beholds the good already resulting to these poorsavages from their intercourse with his countrymen; and they themselvesare fully sensible of, and truly grateful for, every mark of kindnessmanifested towards them. They have stores full of the finest Indian corn, which they consider a great luxury, a food which requires little troublein preparing, keeps well, and is very nutritious. It is but a few yearssince this useful grain was introduced amongst them; and I sincerely hopethis introduction may be followed up, not only by our sending out to themseeds of vegetables and fruits, but by our forwarding to them everyvariety of quadruped which can be used for food. Abundance of the finestwater-melons are daily brought alongside vessels entering their ports;these, in point of flavour, are superior to any I ever met with. I haveno doubt every variety of European produce essential to the support oflife would thrive equally well; and as food became abundant, and luxurieswere introduced, their disgusting feasts on human flesh would soon bediscontinued altogether. 

We were soon at sea, and speedily felt considerable apprehensions as tothe safe termination of our voyage. Our vessel (the brig GovernorMacquarie) we well knew was a leaky one, though her leaks did notdistress us on the outward voyage, she being then only in ballast trim;but now that she was loaded to the water's edge, and the winter comingon, we became greatly alarmed for her. Another disagreeable circumstancewas having no bread or flour on board. To obviate the first evil, and tosave the sailors a great deal of hard labour, our Captain offered to givea passage to Sydney to several natives, who accepted his offer, theybeing always anxious to see the colony; we likewise had on board thegreat Chief from the Thames, who had caused us so much trouble atKororarika. These men, being fine, strong, active young fellows, wereindefatigable in their exertions at the pumps; and though we had tocontend with much heavy weather, and contrary winds, they kept our vesselpretty dry. The want of bread was not so easily remedied; though ourCaptain treated it lightly, saying he was sure of getting a supply bymaking a requisition to the missionaries. He accordingly waited uponthem, and acquainted them with our distressed condition; they had plenty(for only a few weeks previously they had received a large supply), andas we knew their agent at Sydney, Mr. Campbell, we had no doubt ofprocuring a sufficiency from them to carry us home; but in this we weredisappointed. Captain Kent did not ask them for a supply as a gift, butsolicited merely the _loan_ of a cask or two till we arrived at Sydney, when he guaranteed that the owners of the brig should return the samequantity into the missionary storehouse there. The little monosyllable_No_ was again put in requisition, with this qualification--"that theydid not like the Botany Bay skippers. " Through their "dislike, " thepassengers and seamen of the brig might have gone unprovided to sea, hadnot a "worldly-minded" whaler (fortunately for us) at that criticalmoment come into port, who, the instant he heard of the ill-success ofour entreaty, vented his indignation in pretty coarse language, and said, "if it detained his vessel a week, he would supply us;" and he kept hisword; he gave us a bountiful supply, which rendered us comfortable duringthe whole way home. 

It was most interesting to observe our savages when we got well out tosea. They soon appeared to become accustomed to their novel situation, and seemed to feel quite at home and at their ease "on board ship. " Theirexertions at the pumps were indefatigable. I felt convinced they thoughtthat during all voyages the same labour was gone through to keep thevessel afloat; and as it only required strength and exertion, theycheerfully took that department entirely to themselves, especially asthey soon perceived how useless they were when they attempted to performany other duty on board of the brig, as their knowledge of voyagingextended no further than the distance they go in their own canoes, which, though very beautiful, are sad leaky things at sea; and as, during thetime they are out, the greater part of the crew are baling the water outof them, they thought the leaky state of our vessel was no uncommonoccurrence. But however cheerfully they worked during the day, nothingcould induce them to "turn out" at night; they always stowed themselvesaway, but in what part of the vessel I never could conjecture. They havea dread of some unknown evil spirit, which they imagine has power overthem at night; and this supposition makes them terrible cowards in thedark. 

The second day after we were at sea, I saw a group of savages lying roundthe binnacle, all intently occupied in observing the phenomenon of themagnetic attraction; they seemed at once to comprehend the purpose towhich it was applied, and I listened with eager curiosity to theirremarks upon it. 

"This, " said they, "is the white man's God, who directs them safely todifferent countries, and then can guide them home again. " Out ofcompliment to us, and respect for its wonderful powers, they seemed muchinclined to worship this silent little monitor. 

During our voyage to Port Jackson we experienced a succession ofsoutherly gales, which Captain Kent informed me were very prevalent atthis season of the year. Notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, we were carried considerably to leeward of the port. We made Lord Howe'sIslands, whose high and bold features rise, as it were, out of the ocean;as we passed close to them, we perceived they were well wooded andwatered; and one of the men, who had been on shore there, informed me thatthere was a tolerably good harbour for small craft. A few miles to thesouthward of these islands is Ball's Pyramid, a most singular andsublime-looking rock, rising perpendicularly out of the sea to a heightof a thousand feet; the base of it is enveloped in perpetual surf, dashing and climbing up its craggy sides. Its appearance, as we saw it, relieved by the setting sun, and the coming on of a stormy night, wasawful in the extreme!

Nothing could exceed the delight manifested by our New Zealanders as wesailed up Port Jackson harbour; but, above all, the windmills mostastonished them. After dancing and screaming with joy at beholding them, they came running and asking me "if they were not gods. " I found theywere inclined to attach that sacred appellation to most things they couldnot understand; they did so when they first became possessed of theirmuskets, and actually worshipped them, until they discovered how soonthey got out of repair, and then, notwithstanding all the prayers theycould bestow upon them, they would not mend again of their own accord. 

Our Chief from the Thames, who had a great idea of his own dignity, commenced adorning his person, as he felt convinced the Governor wouldinstantly grant him an audience when he came on shore. All our lamps wereemptied to add a more beautiful gloss to his hair and complexion; hiswhole stock of feathers and bones were arranged to the greatestadvantage. He at length became quite enraged when he found that he wasallowed to sit two days on our deck, amongst all manner of dirty portersand sailors, without either being visited or sent for; and he was loud inhis reproaches to us for having deceived him. We certainly were to blamein having induced him to believe we had any influence with the Governor, for however politic we (who had lived in New Zealand) might think it, topay some attentions to these simple savages, his Excellency, unfortunately, thought otherwise; and though the Chief, attended by hisfollowers, used to sit in the verandah at Government House from morningtill night, the Governor never once deigned to speak to them, and theywere, in consequence, constantly coming to me with complaints. At lengththey told me that unless they obtained an audience from our Chief theyshould consider it so great an insult that they would revenge it upon allthe Europeans they could get into their power; and I, well knowing thatseveral families were settled in that part of the country wherein thisman was Chief, thought it my duty to let the Governor know, that, howeverhe might dislike their manners and appearance, it might lead to someserious calamity, if he continued to refuse to give them an audience. 

I accordingly waited upon the Brigade Major, and explained to him howunwise it was to treat these men with such undisguised contempt. Theresult was, the Governor saw the affair in the same point of view asmyself, and condescended to meet them and converse with them for aboutfive minutes; and with that they were satisfied. Other heads ofdepartments (civil and military) behaved differently, and evidently felta pleasure in having them with them. The Commander of the troops sufferedthem to sit at the same table with himself and officers, and had thewar-dance performed in the mess-room, which I thought would have broughtthe house down upon our heads. He likewise permitted them to fall intothe ranks with the soldiers, which pleased them beyond everything, inasmuch as they considered it a higher honour in being permitted tostand by our warriors on the martial parade than to take food with ourChiefs at their own table!

The Attorney-General of the colony took a particular interest in thesesavages, and gave a large party, to which they were invited. Several ofthe visitors on this occasion came out of curiosity to see how thesecannibals would conduct themselves, expecting, no doubt, to witness adisplay of disgusting gluttony; but in that they were disappointed, fornever did any set of men behave with greater decorum than they did. 

On being apprised of this invitation, they were all most anxious toobtain European dresses, and when we refused to lend them ours, theyrequested of our servants the loan of a suit. This being denied themalso, with the little money they had they attempted to bargain for wholesuits of _convict_ dresses, in order to make their _debut_ in style atthe table of the Attorney-General! When I discovered this to be the case, I explained to them the impropriety of their conduct, and roused theirpride by pointing out to them the absurdity of men of their high rank intheir own country wishing to appear in the cast-off dress of degradedslaves, and how much more suitable it was to the dignity of theircharacter to appear in their own national costume. Accordingly, on theappointed day, they met the company superbly attired in mats andfeathers; they made a splendid show at the dinner-table, and affordedgreat amusement to the evening visitors. At an early hour they got verysleepy, but were too polite to hint how much they felt oppressed bydrowsiness. I saw their eyes grow heavy, and perceived that it wasdifficult for them to sit upright on their chairs. I mentioned thesesymptoms to their kind host, who immediately consented to their retiring. They accordingly withdrew into a corner of one of the adjoining rooms, where, lying down huddled together, and covering themselves with theirmats, they were soon asleep, and gave no interruption to anyone duringthe remainder of the evening. 

The greatest treat it was in our power to bestow on them was to take themto a review of the troops then stationed at Sydney. The splendour oftheir regimentals, the regularity of their movements, and the precisionof their firing, made them nearly mad with delight; they ran about theplain literally wild with joy, occasionally stopping to gaze with wonderon men performing what they deemed such prodigies. In their ecstasiesthey occasionally vociferated their own furious war-whoop. Theirextravagant expressions of delight, and their many extraordinarygestures, caused great amusement both to the military and to thespectators assembled on the ground; and when the review was over mysavage friends were quite exhausted with fatigue and excitement. 

After two months' residence at Sydney we had an opportunity of procuringa passage for them to their own country; and they departed, expressingthe greatest gratitude for our attentions towards them. They were loadedwith presents of all descriptions; for, finding they generally got whatthey begged for, while here, they importuned everyone they met, and theyused daily to return home burthened with the most miscellaneous andextraordinary jumble of commodities it was possible to conceive; for, aseverything they then beheld was new to them, and might be (they thought)of some service to them in their own country, each trifle was of greatvalue in their estimation, and was carefully stowed away. They alwaysexpressed their concern that so few muskets were given to them, and thatthey were presented with ammunition in such small quantities. War-likestores were their grand desideratum; and though they would accept of anything you chose to give them, yet they always had hopes they shouldfinally receive their favourite presents of a stocking of powder, a pieceof lead, or a musket. 

THE END. 

APPENDIX I. 

MASSACRE OF CAPT. FURNEAUX'S BOAT'S CREW. 

CANNIBALISM OF THE MAORIS. 

[_The following is the account given by Captain Furneaux of the massacreof his boat's crew, referred to in Earle's narrative on page 24. _]

 * * * * *

The Resolution, under command of Captain Cook, and the Adventure, commanded by Captain Furneaux, sailed from Plymouth on the 13th April, 1772, to continue the exploration of New Zealand begun during CaptainCook's first voyage. The vessels became finally separated in a gale offCape Palliser in October, 1773, and the two navigators did not meet againuntil after Cook's return to England in July, 1775. 

Captain Furneaux reported that while his ship was refitting in QueenCharlotte Sound the astronomer's tent was robbed by a party of natives. One who was seen escaping was fired upon and wounded, when he and hisconfederates made for the woods, leaving their canoe with most of thestolen goods on the shore. "This petty larceny, " Captain Furneauxremarks, "probably laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe whichsoon after happened, " and which he thus describes:

"On Friday, the 17th, we sent out our large cutter, manned with sevenseamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompaniedby Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter'sservant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove to gather greensand celery for the ship's company, with orders to return that evening;for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon, and the ship madeready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, the captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up allnight in expectation of their arrival, but to no purpose. At daybreak, therefore, the captain ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She wasdouble manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr. Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, withfive private men, all well armed, and having plenty of ammunition andthree days' provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, then to proceed to Grass Cove, and if nothing was to be seen or heard ofthe cutter there, they were to go farther up the cove, and return by thewest shore. Mr. Rowe having left the ship an hour before the timeproposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity might have carriedhim into East Bay, none of our people having ever been there, or thatsome accident might have happened to the boat, for not the leastsuspicion was entertained of the natives. Mr. Burney returned abouteleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of amost horrible scene, described in the following relation:--

"'On Saturday, the 18th, we left the ship about nine o'clock in themorning. We soon got round Long Island and Long Point. We continuedsailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examiningwith our glasses every cove on the larboard side, till near two o'clockin the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left goingup East Bay, to dress our dinner. 

"'About five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we hadleft this place, we opened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and herewe saw a large double canoe just hauled upon the beach, with two men anda dog. The two men, on seeing us approach, instantly fled, which made ussuspect it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landingand examining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of ourcutter's rowlock ports and some shoes, one of which among the latter wasknown to belong to Mr. Woodhouse. A piece of flesh was found by one ofour people, which at first was thought to be some of the salt meatbelonging to the cutter's men, but, upon examination, we supposed to bedog's flesh. A most horrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up ourdoubts, and convinced us we were among no other than cannibals; for, advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, anda dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examination, wesuspected to be human. We cut open the baskets, some of which were fullof roasted flesh, and others of fern root, which serves them for bread. Searching others, we found more shoes and a hand, which was immediatelyknown to have belonged to Thos. Hill, one of our forecastle men, ithaving been tattooed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded alittle way in the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was tolaunch the canoe, intending to destroy her; but seeing a great smokeascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be withthem before sunset. 

"'At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single andthree double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, whoretreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water side, where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond thewoods, was a large fire, from whence, all the way down the hill, theplace was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musketoon wasfired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of menlying down, for they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Beingdoubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear or a desire to decoyus into an ambuscade, we were determined not to be surprised, andtherefore, running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enoughto reach them with our guns, but at too great a distance to be under anyapprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill kepttheir ground, hallooing, and making signs for us to land. At these we nowtook aim, resolving to kill as many of them as our bullets would reach, yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley didnot seem to affect them much, but on the second they began to scrambleaway as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continuedto fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them throughthe bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained theirground without moving an inch till they found themselves forsaken by alltheir companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched off withgreat composure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, andeither lay there or crawled away on his hands and feet; but the otherescaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, and, supported by the marines, leaped on shore and pursued the fugitives. We had not advanced far from the water-side, on the beach, before we metwith two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives hadtied their canoes, whereby we were convinced this was the spot where theattack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there, but instead of her, the most horriblescene was presented to our view; for there lay the hearts, heads, andlungs of several of our people, with hands and limbs in a mangledcondition, some broiled and some raw; but no other parts of their bodies, which made us suspect that the cannibals had feasted upon and devouredthe rest. At a little distance we saw the dogs gnawing their entrails. Weobserved a large body of the natives collected together on a hill abouttwo miles off, but as night drew on apace, we could not advance to such adistance; neither did we think it safe to attack them, or even to quitthe shore to take an account of the number killed, our troop being a verysmall one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and muchirritated. While we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannensaid that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods, on which wereturned to our boat, and having hauled alongside the canoes, wedemolished three of them. During this transaction the fire on the top ofthe hill disappeared, and we could hear the savages in the woods at highwords, quarrelling, perhaps, on account of their different opinions, whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. They werearmed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a sergeant's halbert inshape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. Wesuspected that the dead bodies of our people had been divided among thosedifferent parties of cannibals who had been concerned in the massacre, and it was not improbable that the group we saw at a distance by the firewere feasting upon some of them, as those on shore had been where theremains were found, before they had been disturbed by our unexpectedvisit. Be that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than fourof our friends' bodies, nor could we find the place where the cutter wasconcealed. It now grew dark, on which account we collected carefully theremains of our mangled friends, and, putting off, made the best of ourway from this polluted place. When we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, whichformed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost tothe water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. Mr. Burney and Mr. Fannen having consulted together, theywere both of opinion that we could, by an attempt, reap no otheradvantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. Upon leaving Grass Cove we had fired a volley towards where we heard theIndians talking, but by going in and out of the boat our pieces had gotwet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation morecritical, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than halfexpended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothingcould be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safeaboard before midnight. '"

It is a little remarkable that Captain Furneaux had been several times upGrass Cove with Captain Cook, where they saw no inhabitants, and no othersigns of any but a few deserted villages, which appeared as if they hadnot been occupied for many years, and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, whenhe entered the same cove, there could not be less than fifteen hundred ortwo thousand people. 

On Thursday, the 23rd of December, the Adventure departed from, and madesail out of, the Sound. She stood to the eastward, to clear the straits, which was happily effected the same evening; but the ship was baffled fortwo or three days with light winds before she could clear the coast. Inthis interval of time the chests and effects of the ten men who had beenmurdered were sold before the mast, according to an old sea custom. 

When Captain Cook was in the Sound on his third voyage, he learned thatthe massacre arose over an unpremeditated quarrel. Kahura, who had beenactive in the tragedy, told Cook that a Maori having brought a stonehatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and wouldneither return it nor give anything for it, and on which the ownersnatched some bread from the party of Europeans, who were at dinner onthe beach, as an equivalent, and then the quarrel began. Kahura himselfhad a narrow escape of being shot, while another was shot beside him; andthe Europeans, outnumbered, were surrounded and killed. It was alsostated by the natives that not one of the shots fired by the party ofCaptain Furneaux led by Mr. Burney to search for the missing people hadtaken effect so as to kill or even to hurt a single person. 

APPENDIX II. 

THE DEATH OF WHAREUMU (KING GEORGE). 

The death of this Bay of Islands chief, who acted as protector to Mr. Earle during his residence at Kororareka, is thus described by Messrs. Hobbs and Stack, Wesleyan missionaries at Hokianga, in a letter datedfrom Mangungu, Hokianga, on the 22nd March, 1828:--

"On the same day that Hongi died at Whangaroa a son of the late Pomare's, named Tiki, was killed at Waima by a chief of the tribe calledMahurihuri. Waima is in Hokianga, and only a few miles distance from us. The cause of the quarrel was this: Tiki had had some of his pigs stolenby the natives of Waima, and he was seeking utu by robbing their sweetpotato plantations, for which he was shot. 

"As soon as the report of the young man's death reached the Bay ofIslands, 400 natives collected together, forming two divisions, under twoseparate chiefs, Whareumu, or, as he is called by the Europeans, KingGeorge, and Toi, and came to Hokianga. Toi and his party arrived first atWaima, where he found Patuone and all the natives and other chiefs of ourdistrict. After robbing the natives of Waima of their potatoes, etc. , peace was made, and no further evil consequences seemed likely to arise. The next day, the 14th, Whareumu and his party arrived. He was highlydispleased with Toi for having made peace on such easy terms. Heprevailed upon him, therefore, to break his league. Whareumu was alsovery insolent to Muriwai, intimated that he was a coward, and pouredcontempt upon the idea of the Hokianga natives standing in their owndefence. On the morning of the 15th a quarrel ensued between the 400 Bayof Islanders and the natives of Waima, our natives also having now becometheir allies. This fray did not at the outset seem likely to be attendedwith fatal results, but, as Solomon justly observes, the beginning ofstrife is like the letting out of water; so it was in this instance. Shots were fired on both sides till several were killed and wounded. Atlength Muriwai, who was a pacificator, was wounded and fell. Supposing hewas killed, our natives (for the natives of Waima fled as soon as mattersassumed a serious aspect) no longer regarded matters lightly, but turnedround in great rage, for they also were in the act of retreating, andsingled out Whareumu as a satisfaction for Muriwai. Whareumu received twoballs before he was killed. The one which killed him went through histhroat. As soon as he fell all his followers fled, leaving about nine oftheir companions dead on the field, amongst whom was Oro, the chief whocommenced our Whangaroa robbing. This ended the contest. Patuone and Neneimmediately took up the body of the fallen chief and made greatlamentation over him, and have since placed his body between the bodiesof their own relations as a mark of respect. "