A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834

 A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834

 BY

 ROBERT HEYWOOD OF THE PIKE, BOLTON

 [Device]

 PRIVATELY PRINTED 1919

 One hundred copies printed for the Editor by J. B. Peace, M. A. At the University Press Cambridge. October, 1919. 

ROUTE

(_The numbers indicate pages in the Journal_)

 Bolton (1). 

 Liverpool _to_ New York, _by packet "Britannia. " May 1-June 8_ (1-23). 

 New York (23-26). 

 New York, _by steamer and stage via Princeton and Trenton to_ Philadelphia (26-30). 

 Philadelphia, _by stage via Frankford and Schuylkill and steamer to_ Baltimore (30-34). 

 Baltimore _to_ Washington (34-36). 

 Washington, _by stage via Alexandria and Mount Vernon back to_ Washington (36-37)

 Washington, _by R. Potomac to Fredericksburg, then stage via Orange Court, Charlottesville, Brookville, over Blue Ridge Mountains to_ Staunton. _Jenning's Gap, Charrodale, Warm Springs, Hot Springs, Sulphur Springs, Lewisburg, Kamley, Deak, Hawk's Nest, R. Kanawha, Charleston to_ Guyandotte, _thence by steamer down R. Ohio to_ Maysville (38-44). 

 Maysville, _via Hillsburgh, Paris to_ Lexington (44-45). 

 Lexington, _by stage via Frankford to_ Louisville (45-47). 

 Louisville, _by steamer up R. Ohio to_ Cincinnati (47-48). 

 Cincinnati, _by stage via Reading, Lebanon, Wainville and Springfield to_ Columbus (48-49). 

 Columbus, _by stage via Zanesville, Cambridge to_ Wheeling (49-50). 

 Wheeling, _by steamer up R. Ohio to Steubenville, thence by stage via Paris and Florence to_ Pittsburg (51-52). 

 Pittsburg, _by stage via Butler, Meadville and Waterford to_ Erie (52-53). 

 Erie, _by steamer on lake, via Portland, Dunkirk and Silver Creek to_ Buffalo (53-54). 

 Buffalo _to_ Falls of Niagara (54-56). 

 Niagara, _by steamer on lake via York, Toronto, Port Hope, Cobourg, Kingston, Brockville, and Prescot to_ Montreal (56-59). 

 Montreal, _by steamer on R. St. Lawrence via Cornwall, and Three Rivers to_ Quebec (60). 

 At Quebec, _Beauport Lake and Montmorency Falls, and back to_ Montreal (60-62). 

 Montreal, _by steamer via La Prairie, St. John's, Plattsburg (on Lake Champlain) to_ Ticonderoga (62-64). 

 Ticonderoga, _via Lake St. George to_ Caldwell (64). 

 Caldwell, _by stage via Glen Falls, Saratoga, Ballston and Schenectady to_ Albany (64-66). 

 Albany, _by stage via Stockbridge, Seddon, Beckett, Springfield and Worcester to_ Boston (66-68). 

 Boston, _via Cambridge to Lowell and back to_ Boston (69-70). 

 Boston, _by stage via Nahant, Pawtucket and Providence to_ Newport (70-75). 

 Newport, _by steamer to_ New York (75-76). 

 New York, _by stage to Rockaway and Jamaica and back to_ New York (76-78). 

 New York, _by stage via Catskill Mountains, Cairo, Hobart, Morrisville, Bloomville to_ Delhi, _Green, Bainbridge to_ Binghampton, _Montrose, Pike, Orrell, Towanda, Berwick, Sugar Mountain, Cherrytown, Columbus, Northumberland, Pottsville, Tuscarora, Tamaqua, Mauch Chunk, Lehigh Gap, Easton to_ Philadelphia (78-92). 

 Philadelphia, _by steamer to Trenton, thence to Laurenceville and_ New York (92-94). 

 New York, _by steamer up R. Hudson via West Point on right bank, by Poughkeepsie on left bank and back to_ New York (95-99). 

 Sailed from New York _to_ Liverpool _in packet "Hibernia, " Sept. 16_ (99). 

 Reached Liverpool, _October 9_ (109) _and_ Bolton (110). 

NOTES

BY ROBERT HEYWOOD

The _Britannia_, 125 feet long. Number of persons on board: 27 engagedon the vessel, including the Captain, two mates, two cooks, two stewardsand a carpenter, with nine passengers, making, with 152 steeragepassengers, a total of 188. 

 The Captain, Wm. Sketchley, an experienced seaman having crossed the Atlantic 132 times--very attentive to the wants of the steerage. 

List of passengers:

 Mr. Bassnett from Preston, has been a good deal in Canada, also in the West Indies and Holy Land. 

 Mr. Hamilton, a clergyman of the Irish Epis. , decrepit easy Christian. 

 Mr. Grindrod, a Methodist preacher going to Kingston as a president from England, possessing more activity and apparent piety. 

 Captain Kenney, an officer on half-pay, had seen a good deal of high life. 

 Mr. Cayley, a good-looking but rather coxcomical young man, he and his parents had resided at St. Petersburg. 

 Mr. Webster, a native of the West Indies and had resided there several years, his father more than 30 years, now resided at Cheltenham. 

 Mr. Seaton, an American, had crossed the Atlantic several times and also been in the West Indies. 

 Mr. Jackson, of Barnsley, rather deaf, but seemed to have more money than wit; he and his two brothers carry on an extensive manufactory of linen and woollen business. 

 * * * * *

The _Hibernia_, 108 feet long. 

 The Captain, James L. Wilson, of New York, a jolly sort of fellow with more navigation than religion. 

List of passengers:

 Mr. Street, formerly of Boston, now New York, dealer in dry goods, chiefly Manchester where he had resided three years; a pleasant sensible man, rather touchy. 

 Mr. Williams, of New York, a rattling talking fellow, not much excepting having got some dollars, now setting off to make a tour through Europe for the benefit of his health; talks of soon learning French and singing; another John Jones. 

 Mr. D. Holzknecht, of Trieste, a good-natured sort of person; his father bound for his return to Italy. 

 Mr. Frankland, of Liverpool, a lively intelligent Quaker; been two or three times to Italy, partly pleasure and partly business; left in November and had been to New Orleans and Quebec. 

 Mr. Hopkins, of Hartford, Mass. , a Professor going to London to purchase philosophical instruments, and purposed attending lectures in Paris, but not knowing French I recommended him to Edinburgh which he seemed to approve. 

DIARY OF A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834

THURSDAY, MAY 1ST, 1834. 

Left home quarter past 10 accompanied by my three friends, Mr. Baker, Mr. John Dean, and Cousin Peter Heywood. Took a walk to the Prince'sDock[1]; found my berth situated near the foot of the staircase. Thencewe proceeded to Mr. Thornley's office and met with the kindestattention. Received several letters of introduction and valuableinformation; recommended me to take dollars; sent a clerk with me to themoney exchangers and also lent me £150. Just then I saw James Turnerpass by; he got me the money in five minutes. After dinner we drove downwith 784 dollars in a bag sealed up, which I deposited in myportmanteau. Embarked at 4 o'clock, got into the river and 1/4 before 6were towed out by a steamer going to Dundalk. The steamer left us athalf-past nine P. M. Near the floating lights. Charged £18. 18. 0. ; wentto tea 1/4 past 8, found nine passengers. Had a good deal ofconversation with one of them, an American, who seemed to be acquaintedwith all the packets. Said he supposed the _Britannia_ cost 40, 000dollars. Called a vessel old after ten years. Another passenger had beenin Egypt and seemed familiar with most parts of America; thought Ishould have ample time in two months to see the most interesting partsof America, including Canada. Recommended a covering during the night toguard against the mosquitoes. Went to bed about eleven. Slept in drawersand stockings with a night-shirt in addition, there being rather scantynarrow bed clothes. The sea placid so as to allow getting comfortably tobed. 

FRIDAY, MAY 2ND. 

Had a good night, wakened by the crowing of cocks, etc. Our live stockvery considerable, consisting of a cow for milk, sheep, turkeys, geese, ducks, hens, etc. Got up at 6-1/2, a fine morning. Breakfast at 8, offish, beef, mutton, omelettes, tea and coffee. A file of New York papershad been left in the night by an American packet. Found the steeragepassengers had a place like the Black Hole of Calcutta, the foolishpeople not consenting to have their trunks, etc. , removed below. 

Began reading "A Tour through Canada. " Found one of the passengers goingout to assist at a Methodistic Conference in Canada. This forenoon theCaptain told the helmsman to go north about. The wind became favourable. We left the Welsh coast and came along side of the Isle of Man or ratherthe Calf. Did not attend lunch and had not much relish for dinner. Munched one of mother's cakes and took tea which I liked very much. Hada pleasant chat in the evening; was informed about the watches which arereckoned from twelve at noon ringing every half hour till four, makingwhat is called eight bells; then begins again. Retired to rest abouthalf past ten. Soon after being in my berth found considerable heaves 6or 8 times, then still whilst I counted 20 or 25, then again heaving asbefore. This is occasioned by what are called the Swells. 

SATURDAY, MAY 3RD. 

Had another good night; rose soon after seven, found ourselves within 3miles of the coast of Ireland with Cantyre on our right. Heard theCaptain speak to a vessel going to Liverpool telling them to report usall well. Breakfasted very well but soon returned upon deck as weexpected soon to lose sight of land. A pretty stiff gale about ten whichthrew the vessel a good deal on one side. Continued in sight of Irelandtill past five when the land and we parted for some weeks. About thistime I became qualmish and went to the stern to see if I could hastenthe catastrophe by putting down my fingers; this did not avail, therefore I descended to open my store of camomile and black currants;no sooner was this accomplished than I became sick three or four times. I then undressed and rolled into my berth and slept 3 or 4 hours. Theship rolled very much and the water I heard splashing by; it seemedsometimes as if actually going over. Two interesting circumstancesoccurred last night. I dreamed that my father was actually alive and inhis better way. A poor redbreast made his appearance on the vessel--howhe had come there we did not know. What must be the situation of thepoor steerage passengers, about 100 adults and a numerous set ofchildren? A very happy circumstance for us rather than the proprietorsis that we have only nine passengers, so each can have a double berth tohimself, a very great comfort indeed, especially when it becomes warmweather. 

SUNDAY, MAY 4TH. 

Passed a tolerable night; attempted to get up to breakfast, but foundmyself obliged to hurry back to my berth and did not attempt to risetill twelve, and then unable to shave. Sat sometimes in the sunshine andsometimes in the small house, unable to walk and fearful of descending. Took only a little bread and a sip of brandy and water. Descended about7 to tea, but obliged to hurry into my berth when I vomited, then dranka cup of tea. Last night I dreamed that I actually saw my dear fatheralive and cheerful. Several birds resembling sparrows flew about theship and seemed as if they had made an error in their reckoning as theymust be nearly four hundred miles from land. I cannot but deeplysympathise with the steerage passengers so crowded, whilst with everyattention I cannot but think my own situation miserable. 

MONDAY, MAY 5TH. 

A pretty good night, but did not rise till ten as I felt sickly. Managedto shave without a glass. Sickly all day and unable to take exercise. Sat in the upper house with a quantity of flannel around my feet; urgedby the Captain to take a little chicken broth, did so and to my greatsurprise found some relish. I also partook of a little chicken; sickseveral times; descended about 7; again sick, got a cup of tea, took twoof the pills. Found my feet very cold, rubbed them warm. Sipped of thecurrant tea and felt very comfortable. 

Morning dawn, crowing of cocks, 7-1/2 bell rung round the cabin. 8breakfast; coffee, tea, beefsteak, mutton-chops, etc. 12 lunch; shins ofbeef, tongue, etc. 3 dinner; soup, fish, fowls, beef, mutton, pies, puddings, dessert, oranges, nuts, French plums. 7 tea. 

TUESDAY, MAY 6TH. 

Rise soon after seven. Shaved again without glass, walked on deck, gotbreakfast in the upper house with my two clerical friends. Talked aboutthe miseries of Ireland which they both ascribed to the bad effects ofpopery, which Mr. Hamilton said continued in a worse state than in anyother part of the world; one great proof was that the evils were worsein Munster. When I mentioned France, they said infidelity prevailedthere, which I admitted to be the case in the large cities. Dined abovewith the two ecclesiastics. A good deal of rain with little wind. Thenblew fair but very cold. An attempt made to put up a stove but one ofthe pipes was missing. Found myself able to read a little; commencedwith Watson's "Life[2], " belonging to Mr. Grindrod. Many gulls flyingbehind the vessel; a ship in sight northwards. A poor hen escaped fromthe pen and remained shivering at the stern; on attempting to get hershe flew off and fell into the sea and thus escaped having her throatcut by getting drowned; we saw her floating a long way. Hope to havegot over my sickness. This evening we all appeared below at tea, beingthe first time since Saturday morning, the sickness continuing fromSaturday evening to Tuesday morning. Watched the Captain and Mr. Seatonplay chess. No great skill displayed. 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 7TH. 

Passed a pretty good night with some curious dreams. Well enough toshave by means of a glass. Made an error in reckoning the watch bells. On deck at half-past six. Found we had not progressed much, the windunfavourable. No tides here, but assisted by the current make about twoknots per hour. About ten an improved N. E. Wind which continued most ofthe day. Cough nearly gone, sickness also, breakfasted pretty well anddined heartily. I and my two clerical friends ordered two bottles ofchampagne. About two observed a vessel ahead nearing us. Came up soonafter five, proved the _A----_ from Havannah bound to St. Petersburghand had been out 42 days; asked us whence we came and whither bound, also the longitude. Then each parted bidding the other a good voyage. The first really happy day I spent at sea. All the crew appeared to berecovered excepting a Welshman and his wife who could not be prevailedon to leave their hammocks; could not speak a word of English. Found thesteerage passengers very respectable poor people from Lancashire, Lincolnshire, Derbyshire, Cheshire, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, somewith a pretty good property which they found regularly diminishing. Atheological debate with Mr. Hamilton. Read part of Lander's[3] "Travelsin Africa. "

THURSDAY, MAY 8TH. 

Slept well, rose at seven, dressed and shaved without difficulty, but Iforgot to rinse out my mouth with water according to my invariablepractise. Very cold with stiff breeze, going about 8 knots per hour. Atdinner a warm discussion about the state of Ireland. I contended thatagitation could only prevail where there was distress. See the state ofAmerica; what could D. O'Connell do there? About 5 we had what is calleda squall of wind. I went on deck and found the vessel on one side, andscudding steadily through the foaming deep. Gulls still accompanying theship as if expecting a wreck. So cold, 51°, that I remained a good dealbelow, read nearly 200 pages in Fergusson's[4] "Tour in Canada. " The_Britannia_ 125 feet long. 

Wines, etc. , on board furnished by the steward at the following prices:

 Madeira wine per bottle $1. 50 Sherry " " 1. 50 Port " " 1. 25 Claret per bottle 1. 25 Champagne per bottle 2 Hock or Moselle per bottle 1. 50 Brandy, Gin, Rum, or Whisky } per bottle 1 Punch, Cherry Brandy or Rum Cordial } Porter per bottle 0. 37-1/2 Cider " . 25 Soda Water " . 12-1/4 Saratoga " . 25

FRIDAY, MAY 9TH. 

Did not rise till the tinkling of the bell. Had not rested well thefirst two or three hours, cold feet, and afterwards a good deal ofrolling and pitching of the vessel. The conversation this morning atbreakfast chiefly on the expense of dress. Mr. Seaton showed us a stoutbox coat charged ten guineas which was pronounced very cheap, though Icannot but suppose the same might be had at Bolton for £6. 6. 0. Mr. S. Said that 400 dollars was not unusually paid in America. The wind stillfrom the north and therefore favourable, but still very cold. Afterdinner played three games at chess with Mr. Seaton and lost them all. Learned from one of the seamen that the _Britannia_ is about seven yearsold, and is expected to continue as a packet about two years longer. Squally again towards night with a good deal of heaving. Tried fishingbut not successful. After reading a few pages in Watson's "Life" I wentto rest soon after ten. One of the sails appeared old and to have asmall hole, as the wind increased it enlarged and presently went intoribbands. 

SATURDAY, MAY 10TH. 

Had a very restless night. After 1 o'clock the ship rolled tremendouslyand between one and two I heard a considerable bump, the vessel lurchedand we shipped a heavy sea, that is the water flowed over us. Icontinued in a state of great suspense hearing all sorts of thingstumbling about and my looking glass dashed on to me in my berth; put myknees against one side and my back to the other to prevent being tumbledout. For the first time began to regret coming. Often near asleep andthen the vessel so much on one side I could not help fearing it goingover. Not being able to sleep I got up before seven A. M. Found the seavery greatly agitated and the atmosphere thick as if occasioned by thefoam. Looked over the stern and observed two gulls in pursuit ofanything we might throw away. The ocean has the appearance of hills andvales and the heaving on one side I found was occasioned by going up thesides of the hills. Felt qualmish but took some breakfast. After readingWatson's "Life" I turned again into bed till near one P. M. Then went ondeck; four disagreeables, cold, no wind and that wrong, rain, and rathersickly. An elderly sailor at the helm said we had a strong gale in thenight; but at this time of year it was not much minded and told me itwas quite impossible for the ship to go over on one side. Fourteendismal dirty looking geese turned out to promenade the deck. Saw a shipyesterday. The gale again increased towards evening and I feared a poornight. A very good pancake half way across the Atlantic. 

SUNDAY, MAY 11TH. 

Had a better night, being greatly relieved by the assurance of theimpossibility of the ship being blown on one side. Remained awakeseveral hours and afterwards found it assist to lie on one's back whenthe ship is rolling. Whilst on deck the sea suddenly broke over theside. I escaped by means of the boat hung over the side. Mr. Jackson gota complete drenching. After breakfast I proposed having a religiousservice which was assented to, and our clerical friends promised toconduct it. At eleven we had the Church of England Service read by Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Grindrod acting as clerk and also closing the service byan appropriate prayer, alluding to our peculiar situation and prayingfor a safe voyage; and also those in the other parts of the vessel, alsothe Captain and family. It was intended to have a sermon preached to thewhole crew in the afternoon, but the weather proved too cold. TheCaptain said we had made three degrees of latitude since noon the daybefore; would not admit that we had got half way but thought in a day ortwo we should want the hatch windows opened. No ship or porpoises to beseen of all day. 

MONDAY, MAY 12TH. 

Passed a good night. About five we seemed quite becalmed, but were gladto find this not the case, the breeze had continued moderately throughthe night. Sensibly warmer and consequently most of the steeragepassengers appeared on deck. Much pleased with a number of porpoisesswimming alongside of us for a mile or two. A good deal of talk withCaptain Kenney about the English nobility, etc. , and also with CaptainSketchley, who said he had been more than 40 years at sea, chieflybetween Liverpool and New York. His family resides in Liverpool onaccount of Mrs. S. Who could not bear the extremes of the Americanclimate. Find fresh faces on board, most of them have part of theirfamily already gone to America. 

TUESDAY, MAY 13TH. 

Passed a pretty good night though the ship rolled a good deal at times;and I found the sea a good deal agitated. The wind continued to blowhard all day, the vessel rising and falling 10 or 12 yards. Sometimesone side nearly down at the water's edge, and rising up out of boilingfoam. Early in the evening the dead-lights[5], those at the stern, weremade up lest a sea should rush through; the same with the skylights. TheCaptain said the gale was very unusual at this season of the year;talked of the vessel being more uneasy than she used to be. CaptainKenney now appeared on deck. During dinner two ducks and sauce weresuddenly swept across the table and most of it thrown upon Mr. Cayley. Towards evening the sky became darker and the storm likely to increaseduring the night; this we found the case and about ten we rolledtremendously; we all seemed depressed; no cards, not much reading; a fewconundrums, etc. 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 14TH. 

Had a restless night not sleeping till four, when more sail was hoistedthat steadied the vessel and I rested comfortably till half past seven. Nobody but I and Mr. Grindrod seemed to have been inconvenienced. Adelightful change, the wind more favourable and the sea lower, the sunshining. A game called Shuffleboard was introduced with trenchers about1-1/2 inch thick and 10 in. Diameter, counting thus, and the trencherscould be slided within the lines;--claret--2 bottles of champagne beingthe wagers or results of the game. About twelve I went to lie down, having had so little sleep. Whilst down a ship passed to the west of us. Played two games at Chess with the Captain who beat me though I hadquite the game and could have taken his Queen. As heretofore, ifsuccessful I became careless, and if the contrary too much depressed. Stopt up with the card party till after eleven. No gulls to be seen. 

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THURSDAY, MAY 15TH. 

Had a pleasant night, found little wind and that not favourable; in factthey tell me we are not nearing N. Y. Finished Watson's "Memoirs" 667octavo pages; a good reply to those who have attempted a defence ofslavery from O. And N. Testament. Spent the day very delightfully, beingso warm that we preferred the shade. The wind but light and not fair. Tried fishing but not successful. 

An old seaman who has been with the _Britannia_ over three years says henever knew a passage from England to America made in less than 30 days. 

Played another game at chess with Mr. Seaton, had the worst of it, butcalled away to dinner. Another play was putting the feet in a swing ropeand trying how far they could go, being then chalked on the deck. 

After tea went on deck, a beautiful starlight night, a good deal ofsinging. Jackson had ascended the rigging, was followed by one of theseamen who tied his legs. The usual penalty followed--a bottle of rum;he gave them two and the evening passed merrily. 

FRIDAY, MAY 16TH. 

Passed a very good night, the sea placid, but little wind and thatadverse. The wind rising but in no better direction. Played another gamewith Mr. Seaton, he giving me a Knight, still unsuccessful. Had a slightheadache, the atmosphere feeling very damp. Saw one of Mother Carey'schickens or petrel of the ocean; it resembles a swallow and followed ussome distance picking up some crumbs of bread thrown to it by theCaptain. 

The Mate says 28 days the shortest passage he ever made to America. Atdinner a warm discussion on the Duke of Newcastle doing "what he likedwith his own"; also the advantage of colonies, also the large militaryand naval expenses. After dinner we fell in with a ship from Vera Cruzto Bordeaux. The wind fair for the first time since we sailed. Thisevening played another game with the Captain and lost. Went on deck andheard two songs. 

SATURDAY, MAY 17TH. 

Had a good night. Dreamed that I had returned from Liverpool and couldnot get back in time for sailing; also that I had had three suits ofclothes sent in. Was sorry to learn that the wind had died away and thatwe had only made about 1-1/2 knots per hour. Two vessels seen at a greatdistance; about two they came within a mile of us; others were alsoobserved. Went down and wrote a few lines; the vessel did not come nearenough for us to speak to them. Another ship passed in the afternoon butmore distant. At dinner Mr. Seaton said he had known Madeira wine sellfor more than eleven dollars a bushel. Very good pancakes indeed. In theevening Mr. Seaton, talking of horses said he himself had two horseswhich he drove eleven miles an hour for four successive hours; alsospoke of the great mercantile house of Parish & Co. , Hamburgh and NewYork. One of the steerage passengers informs me that there are 102 inthe fore steerage and 39 in the middle steerage. 

SUNDAY, MAY 18TH. 

Had a pleasant night and rose before seven, and took out my betterclothes to remind me more effectually of Sunday. Found the wind hadcontinued moderately favourable. A long discussion at breakfastrespecting smoking. Mr. Bassnett said he had smoked thirty cigars forthirty days together, and did not consider it hurtful when takenproperly into the lungs. I considered it hurtful, and particularly asgenerally it was accompanied by drinking. A ship passed us this morning. At half past ten the bell tolled for a religious service and seats werebrought on deck. Mr. Hamilton read the Church of England service, andMr. Grindrod preached a good practical sermon. In the evening theCaptain proposed to have an evening service, which was readily accededto by Mr. Grindrod. Mr. H. Read the evening service and Mr. G. Preachedthe sermon. In the morning service the prayer for the royal family hadgiven offence to some of the crew, and therefore on the recommendationof the Captain, the prayer was altered into all chief magistrates andgovernors. 

MONDAY, MAY 19TH. 

Dreamed a good deal and particularly about my late dear father, who isnow still more in my remembrance, and I have frequently to check theexpectation of seeing him on my return. A truly delightful morning withan improved breeze. Passed what is called a black fish[6]. Played a gamewith Mr. Bassnett and beat him. A most delightful and favourable breezecontinued. Immediately after dinner I observed a current of yellow waterabout the breadth of the ship's length, and about 1/2 or 3/4 mile oneach side, and after passing over it I went to tell the Captain who wasjust then looking over the side; he made haste to the stern along withothers and he expressed very great surprise, almost seemed desirous toturn the vessel about to look more closely. He had never seen the likebefore, and should have been alarmed had he seen it at the head; couldonly explain it by supposing that an iceberg with a quantity of mud hadmelted in that neighbourhood[7]. Had fiddle and dancing particularlywell done by the steward, cook, and some of the sailors. Played anothergame at chess with Mr. B. And beat him. Although we have had a good fairbreeze all day we have not seen a single ship. 

TUESDAY, MAY 20TH. 

Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavyshower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen ata distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continuedunfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about tenand found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he wasquite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the colouredwater, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawnof a whale. 

Much breakage of glasses at dinner; my decanter tossed off the table andbroken; also a tumbler and champagne glass. One gull seen yesterday andtwo stormy petrels follow us a long way. A very dull day with all of us, partly occasioned by the unfavourable wind and coldness. Had someaffecting conversation with Mr. G. Respecting my late dear father. Afine evening, the wind changed and almost became a calm. The shipgradually turned round to get on another tack. 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST. 

Rested pretty well, but found we had made little way. A good deal ofconversation at breakfast respecting various kinds of fruit. America itseems is well supplied with tropical fruit. Finished Lander's "Travelsin Africa"; also read before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour. " The breezerefreshing though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm. Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw doublets ones tosixes in succession in ten minutes, which he accomplished in seven; healso surprised us by taking up the dice by means only of the boxes. Thewind continued favourable all day. Played another game with Mr. B. Andlost it. Did not see a ship or fish throughout the day. Have greatdifficulty in preventing myself from thinking of meeting my late dearfather on my return. 

THURSDAY, MAY 22ND. 

Did not sleep so well though tolerably comfortable. Found the windslight but for the first time quite fair in a due east, all the sailssquared and also the stunsail out. Saw a fish. The wind about one, changed more south. A long sit and chat upon the helm house with Mr. Grindrod. A very good breeze all day. Remarkable that we saw not avessel all day excepting before breakfast and at a great distance. Frequently do I find some trouble in checking the expectation of meetingagain my dear father. 

FRIDAY, MAY 23RD. 

Got up before six having not been able to sleep since 2 o'clock, suchnoises, pitching and rockings as surely never were heard before. Foundthe sea greatly agitated and much foam. I asked one of the seamen if hedid not call this a stiff gale; he said it was a fresh breeze. TheCaptain admitted that it blew hard; he was up all night. Cold all dayand the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which wefound was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wishto speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one ofthe disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spiritsdepressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webstercomplained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; CaptainKenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. In the morningthe Captain persuaded me to go to rest again and I lay down afterdinner. 

SATURDAY, MAY 24TH. 

I passed a much better night and got up at half past six; was gratifiedto learn from the Mate who is not usually encouraging, that we had beenmaking way in the night; pointed out a vessel passing us on the east. The Captain is making his 132nd passage across the Atlantic, say 62voyages; been at sea 45 years, 35 in the American trade. A very, verycold, though sunny day. A score of petrels flying about. A day ofbusiness amongst the steerage passengers exchanging provisions. Muchwarmer on deck after dinner. Had some conversation in French with one ofthe sailors who is a Frenchman from Bordeaux. Been upon deck and greatlypleased with the numerous petrels chirping on all sides of the ship. Find the seamen are only engaged at New York to Liverpool and back, their wages paid during that time; this is the same even with the cook. The Captain every Saturday night sends a glass of whiskey to all thecabin passengers. 

SUNDAY, MAY 25TH. 

Passed the night very comfortably till six, when a sudden squall arosethat tossed and rolled us about exceedingly. On going upon deck the seawas much agitated, it rained so heavily that I was obliged to descend. These sudden changes are not unusual in what is called the Gulf Stream;but I feel truly thankful that the storm did not come on earlier; itcontinued to blow hard all day. Seated at the stern watching the petrelsand feeding them with bits of fat mutton. A ship seen this morning andanother in the evening. A fine rolling sea and warm enough to sit outand enjoy it. The Church of England Service read in the cabin and aprayer made by Mr. Grindrod. 

MONDAY, MAY 26TH. 

Passed a comfortable night till five, when the vessel began to rollabout. Got up before seven, found a dead calm which was the cause of themotion, which continued all forenoon. 

Amused myself with reading Mr. Bassnett's voyage to Syria; and also atlooking at some amusing caricatures of Cruickshank's. The wind fair butvery little of it, yesterday a gale but in a wrong direction; in fact wehave only had once a really fair wind and that for a short time. A greatmany gulls to be seen, most of them with pointed tails, and few petrels. Had we gone over the banks we might have had some diversion in fishing, but the Captain was afraid of encountering the ice. 

In the Gulf there is not only a stream against us but generally veryfoggy weather and changeable, either calms or storms. This has been avery unpleasant day, a calm with dull hazy weather, no fish or ships, oreven Mother Carey's chickens, but only a few gulls. A good deal ofchampagne taken to-day by Jackson, very foolish. 

TUESDAY, MAY 27TH. 

Passed a pretty good night though occasionally the ship rolled andpitched more than I expected. When I went upon deck I was agreeablysurprised; a very good wind from the north bearing us on very well. 

The scene diversified by a grampus[8] 8 to 10 feet long, and a flyingfish which is rather larger than a swallow. About ten spoke to a vesselfrom Jamaica to London. Finished reading Bassnett's manuscript tour, Syria, Egypt, etc. Much depressed by the recollection of my dearfather's departure; told Mr. Grindrod the cause, which led to someserious and at the same time consolatory remarks. At dinner Mr. Jacksonenquired what was the matter, upon which Mr. G. Very kindly explainedthe cause. Commenced reading B. H. 's[9] Notes on Chili, Peru, etc. , heis a very pleasing and agreeable writer. The measles broke out aboutthis time. 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH. 

Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may lead to achange of the wind which still continues rather favourable. Continuedheavy rain till nearly eleven then cleared up and the wind increased, but not favourable taking us too much to the south instead of crossingthe Gulf Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland butthe Captain feared the icebergs. The Captain said if there was anythingdone by the Almighty which he could wish altered it would be the GulfStream; there is not only a current against us, but great uncertainty asto calms and storms. Mr. And Mrs. Kennedy and her sister dined with usto-day. Jackson more than usually foolish. Some of the passengers tryingto put their legs over an American flour cask, and so raise themselvesover it upon their feet. Went upon deck and was much pleased with theappearance of the sea; the ship was sailing through liquid fire; thesides of the vessel being quite illuminated with the foam, and the oceanwas covered apparently by fire occasioned by the breakers. Passed theday without seeing either sail or fish. 

THURSDAY, MAY 29TH. 

Passed another comfortable night, found we had been getting on prettywell; nearly out of the Stream with the intention of shooting across thefirst fair wind. 

The wind continues pretty favourable. A child died aged nine months. Astone with two lumps of iron are tied up to sink the child. At six thebell tolled, the little thing was placed upon a door and when theMinister, Mr. H. Came to that part of committing the body to the deep itwas slid off into the ocean and immediately disappeared, to be eaten byfish instead of worms. The mother did not come upon deck, her nameJohnson, has 7 or 8 other children with her; the husband I believe inAmerica. 

Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father last 29thMay, surely this circumstance will help him to a little more steadinessbut this was hardly the case, excepting as occasioned by yesterday'sdebauch. Mr. Seaton says bastardy is not so common in America butalways charged to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says henever walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad system, either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary. 

FRIDAY, MAY 30TH. 

Passed another good night though dreaming more of home and thewarehouse; was delighted to find a fair wind and that it had been thesame during the night; continued so all day but the rolling of the shipon going to breakfast made me rather sickly most of the forenoon; infact we pitched and tossed more than ever with heavy rain a good part ofthe day, so that but for the wind being favourable we should consider itthe most unpleasant day we have had; no ships, no fish or anything todivert the tedium. 

This morning two of the sails were torn to ribbands. Frequent jelly-likesubstances floating on the ocean of various colours formed like acockscomb commonly called Portuguese men-of-war. 

SATURDAY, MAY 31ST. 

Another good night, found the wind favourable but not much of this mostof the night. A warm political discussion; I stated that America and notDan O'Connell was the great political agitator. Speaking of the immensesalaries paid in England I said the Government was more in fault ingranting them, it being only human nature to receive. Captain Kenneysaid he should like to subscribe to send the radicals out of thecountry. I thought it would be better to employ the subscriptions ingetting all the democrats away. A dense mist continued on the surface ofthe ocean till eleven, when it suddenly disappeared. A ship discoveredby Mr. Grindrod. 

I cannot forget that this is the anniversary of the interment of my dearfather. Finished the second volume of Hall's "Journal of a Voyage toChili, etc. " Learned from Captain Kenney that the journey from London toMoscow by Hamburgh, Lübeck, St. Petersburgh may be done in a week forabout £34; that there is no difficulty with regard to passports, butthat you must advertise every district visited in the "St. PetersburghGazette, " and that you are leaving there in three weeks; you can thenstop that time but no longer in one place. At dinner we had someinteresting discussion on phrenology, and also respecting futurepunishment and the different degrees; the latter I was glad to find wasthe creed of Mr. G. Between whom and Mr. B. The conversation was carriedon. On going on deck I was surprised to find that the Captain did notapprove of such discussions. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST. 

Passed a very comfortable night; found we had at length crossed the GulfStream; sensibly colder. The wind had not been favourable since lastnight. A very considerable mist occasioned by the warm water in theStream coming in contact with the cold atmosphere--very cold. 

The morning service according to the Church of England read by Mr. H. But not so many present on account of the cold--again in the eveningwith a sermon from Mr. G. From John, 14th chap. , 15th verse, "If ye loveme keep my commandments. " Captain K. Said he did not consider himself agambler though he had lost 1, 2, 3 or £400 a night; once at Paris helost a good deal. Since then he had made it a rule not to give checks, but merely stake what he had with him; when he lost the large sums theywere out of his winnings. Talked of some wines that would not do forsea, port for instance; had several bottles changed because not soclear. This has been a disagreeable day, cold and a contrary wind; allthe crew seemed to be getting out of spirits. Mr. Jackson said he costhis father £3000 for the 2-3/4 years he was learning the spinningbusiness; he admitted he had been very gay. 

MONDAY, JUNE 2ND. 

A very good night, dreamed of home and my intention of going again toAmerica. Delighted to find the weather milder and the wind favourable;it continued thus all day; rain came on about three; after dinner therewas thick mist which continued all afternoon. Spent several hours withthe helmsman and others. 

Mr. Jackson does business with Gore, Honiball and Harrison. MentionedCoates with whom they did as much as 10, 000 pieces annually. Commencedreading "The Refugee in America, " a work by Mrs. Trollope[10]. 

TUESDAY, JUNE 3RD. 

Did not sleep, as in the early part of the evening feared we might runfoul of some vessel, and after four we had a good deal of rolling. Ongetting up I was greatly disappointed to find the wind had been west allnight, and also very cold indeed. Passed two fishing boats, also saw thespouting of a whale every now and then like foam from a breaker. Severalother fishing boats seen on each side of us, engaged in cod fishing offthe banks of Nova Scotia, so that we are now within soundings. 

Mr. Bassnett mounted the rigging and saw land. The wind continued hardand cold; by "hard" is meant that no change can be expected till it diesnaturally away. Another child is dead of the measles. Mr. Grindrod and Iengaged in reading together "The Refugee. " No fish to be seen. The dayhas been very cold and comfortless, very unfavourable for the poorchildren afflicted with measles. 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4TH. 

Had a pleasant night, but found we had made little progress, the windstill unfavourable. Another child dead of the measles. To reconcile themother to interment in the deep, a coffin was ordered. About one bothchildren were placed upon a sort of door, where a part of the bulwarkhad been taken away. Mr. G. Officiated in consequence of Mr. H. 'sindisposition, and on committing them to the deep the coffin did notsink. A great many passengers ran immediately to the stern whence it wasobserved for more than ten minutes, one passenger protesting that hestill saw it, after others had declared that it had sunk; so that whatwas intended as a kindness proved otherwise, as the other body had sunkinstantly. 

Almost a dead calm all day till half past six, but being so much warmerwe were all in better spirits. A most glorious sunset this evening. Thecook considered to be very quarrelsome; quarrelled this evening withsome of the sailors and got a bloody face. Jackson took more to drinkthan usual. They continued playing at whist till after eleven. 

THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH. 

Got up at half past six, was delighted to find the wind had continuedfavourable all night. 

After breakfast assisted the Captain in assorting 2430 letters, many ofthem double, treble, etc. , besides some hundreds of parcels, with agreat many newspapers most of them Willmer & Co. Immediately, i. E. Halfpast eleven, a sudden squall came on, a great part of the sail wasimmediately taken in--rain and much colder, also much rocking of theship; we have to be thankful that it has happened now, rather than inthe night and especially when nearer land. Immediately after dinner oneof the most terrible rolls we have ever had, I suppose more glasses werebroken this day than on any former one. About two we had quite a thunderstorm with very heavy rain. After dinner we went to the stern and hadthe most terrible heave, and such a sea as we had never beheld beforeand all this at the end of the fifth week. Sounded and found 40 fathoms, tried to fish for cod or hollypot (halibut) but not successful. Yesterday a calm, to-day almost a hurricane. The wind went down aboutfour but the sea continued rolling; in fact it must have blown harderfrom some other part to have raised the sea so much. 

FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH. 

Did not sleep much till after four in consequence of the ship rolling somuch. Most truly delighted to find that we had had favourable wind sinceeleven, and now with this wind from N. E. Which is likely to be morepermanent we may fully expect to get in to-morrow. About ten there cameon a heavy squall which settled into a stiff breeze, so that it becamenecessary to take in a good deal of sail; a larger sea broke over thanany I had yet seen. About two it lessened and the sail was againincreased. After dinner, about five, the delightful word "Land" wasannounced which made us all truly delighted. Immediately I went on deckand was just able to discern the shore of Long Island. What a mostagreeable contrast; only this morning a greater sea broke over the shipthan I had seen before, and now at six we are sailing in smooth water. 

After the first transports of joy on seeing land, my feelings becamesaddened by the recollection of never again beholding my dear father, and these no doubt will be my sensations when I get back to my nativeland. Another most glorious sunset, a cloud covering the upper part ofthe low coast of Long Island, the lower part of the sun's disk made ithave the appearance of a bright line for several seconds with beautifulclouds above, equal to any Italian sky I have beheld. 

SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH. 

A most delightful morning but hardly a breath of air to help us on. Atnoon another child died and was interred. Very hot. The Jersey coastseen this morning. Mr. Seaton, a moderate smoker, said he had used 56/-worth this voyage. Paid 4 dollars and 2/6 to steward--also wine bill 10dollars and 60 cents. Mr. Jackson's bill 77 dollars besides 16 lost atcards. Many ships in sight and a good deal of the coast. Long Island avery low sandy shore. Unfavourable breeze till after dinner when all atonce it changed. A beautiful sight, 15 or 16 vessels on each side, andone from Ireland filled with emigrants. An officer rowed by five menfrom a revenue cutter boarded us a little before eight; took an accountof the cases of merchandise and passengers; he appeared a pleasantsharp-looking young man, Mr. Seaton said a lieutenant. One of the seamensounded ringing the number of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot cameon board, said they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had beentowed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in one boat, andbrought two newspapers. Let go the anchor soon after ten to stem thetide. The cow seemed to recognize the land, poking out her head andsnuffing the land breeze. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH. 

A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let down about half pastsix. A fine view of Staten Island. The pilot says we are about 14 milesoff the quarantine--got Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the _RoyalWilliam_, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had arrived safe. 

Many porpoises seen inside the Hook. So calm that we have to anchor tostem the tide. Mr. Bassnett very ill; about two, became delirious. Saw asteam boat I proposed joining at the expense, but Mr. Seaton seemed tothink it could not be done without offending the Captain. I ventured tomention it to him, mentioning Mr. B. 's illness. He said he could have noobjection and would join us. The flag was hoisted, but either he waspreviously engaged or refused to assist us. Got into the boat hanging onthe side of our ship and observed upwards of 40 sail on each side of us. As we come close to the shore the cow lows. Many porpoises. Got on shoreat Staten Island at seven o'clock; stept across the _Hercules_, animmense steamer; the land quite strange to my feet, the air quitefragrant and the grass delightfully green; a large vine with much bloom. Took tea with fifteen others, very good bread and butter, also turnips, radishes, and strawberry preserves. Walked out and saw many fire-fliesand heard all sorts of noises from grasshoppers, frogs, etc. Went to thehospital for a doctor to attend Mr. B. 

MONDAY, JUNE 9TH. 

Passed a pleasant night, rose soon after six, a most brilliant morning. Called upon poor Bassnett, found him very ill, had slept only two hours, but thought this caused by a powerful medicine. On walking or still moreon standing still, I feel as it were the motion of the ship. 

Plenty of wood for fires, also many of the houses built with shingles. 

Took a boat to fetch our foul linen to be washed at the hospitalwashhouse. Only four-wheel carriages. Large dragon-flies. 95 degrees inthe shade. A couple of oxen drawing a cart. Paid 12-1/2 cents forwashing the clothes, 17 articles. For one day's entertainment at theNautilus Hotel, 1 dol. 75c. Took part of a most delicious cyder, also aplate of strawberries. Found the helm of the steamboat worked ahead, instead of at the stern. A fine pineapple 37 cents. Hair cut 25 cents. Called upon Francis Hall on account of Mr. Grindrod. 

At Bunker's Hotel all black waiters, the charges the same, whether oneattends the meals or not. Set off to call upon Thomas Dean; found himill of the erysipelas and Mrs. D. Just going into the straw. Complainedof business being very bad and likely to be so for the next two months. Rent of the house 500 dollars. Missed my way on my return by taking thewrong turn in Broadway, so that on enquiring I was 2-1/2 miles from theHotel. On getting in, found the table set out, partook of a little ham, and went to bed, pretty well tired. T. D. Cautioned me against overexertion. 

TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH. 

Rested very well though I had some fear at the beginning of the night. Ialso awoke, found myself very warm and feared I had done too much. However soon fell asleep. Rose soon after six--another brilliantmorning. 

Orders are communicated to the servants by signal bells. At half pastseven a gong sounded, the same repeated at eight, the latter being thesignal for breakfast. A long table with bread, all sorts of fish, meat, cakes, strawberries, attended by eight black waiters. Called upon T. Dean and he very kindly assisted in getting my portmanteau, and also inexchanging my dollars which are at par or 4_s. _ 6_d. _ making 2-3/4 in myfavour. Went to the auction and am told that the greatest part ofBritish goods are disposed of in this way; when once advertised theymust be sold as people will not lose their time in inspection; alldepends on the scarcity with regard to pieces, therefore requires greatcare in watching the turns of the market. Took a glass of soda-watermade palatable with sweet lemon juice. Arranged matters in myportmanteau. Dined with upwards of 70 persons of both sexes. All sortsof meat cooked in all ways; the peas sweetened as in Italy. Dessertchiefly oranges and strawberries. 

Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall. Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted likethose in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judgealso in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses aresworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out ofthe Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightningwith some thunder. 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH. 

Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down tothe shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quantity of woodput under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Justin time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had amost delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very largecherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, a shoemaker; built ahouse costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars andoccupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and childbeing dead. 

Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Calledupon T. D. And found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as totheir legal tender, etc. , by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards calledupon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return. Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. But did not find him;mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautifuloranges at 1/2_d. _, also a pine for 10_d. _ Then called at the AmericanHotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him. Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up anddown Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were soldvery low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed toput all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into thebag. 

THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH. 

Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line ofPacket at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermenwho take large quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed uponstakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be cartedaway till frost comes. 

Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning fromCharleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stickof orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that butfor an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have beenfrightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest wasforest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here Iengaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which provedto be the residence of our friend W. B. ; found all well. W. Was quiteastonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B. Greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On goingto the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau, and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpikegate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce. Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas anacre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, andbounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainderby a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. Theestate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled bymosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have fivehorses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad tofind the B. 's so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves tothe improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, risingat four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work, butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters, etc. 

FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH. 

Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast setout, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visitthem again on my return to N. Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took thesteamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber onthe river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail andview of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters. Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's. After dinner set off with C. D. 's parcel to Ridings in 13 St. A longway. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, whowaited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H. Not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffeethat refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, with giltpillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable;the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the tableset out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets allin right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great dealof marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner hadonly some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a littletart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I amadvised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee insteadof tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away theflies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of thenight. 

SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH. 

Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk downstreet before breakfast. 

The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called uponMr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing methrough the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine, also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched andthen put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the dieand then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious processof extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort ofrevolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its valueexceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines thatplaned and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down. Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its ownwater (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others. We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both. Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Wentinto a large Quakers' meeting house--both Pilling and John Wood in town, but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsomeedifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky. 

Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is muchcoal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heatwithout blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear thatthe stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well aslight. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH. 

Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the bestbread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks drivingaway the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed tokeep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and twoMiss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range ofsteps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, acolumn on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal. " Mr. Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself. " The singingchiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. To a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on aninteresting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent apleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane wherean accident had recently happened; walked over a very large woodenbridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interestingdiscussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the eveningservice; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?"

MONDAY, JUNE 16TH. 

Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went tosee about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight atthe Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some timefound the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it didnot go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid ontheir back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle verysavage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it. 

Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went toPilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. Or learn anything about myuncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from thelocusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two topresent to C. D. And Mr. B. 

Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him. Then set off to see Mr. P. And on the way found his brother who keeps astore. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house tomake further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working athis brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks agohaving scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pillingit appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at firstsight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day ortwo with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompaniedme on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his unclehaving cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had doneit. 

TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH. 

Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less thanfive, fish (bass) and eggs, etc. , ready. Walked up to the stage officeand set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh1/4 before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the worksimmediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr. , that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at apublic house; much respected and particularly so by P. , had growncorpulent, scalded 16th Jan. And only able to work about two days since, was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half pastfour to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared ratherdepressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard ofmy father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay hispassage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as hismemory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a heartydinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half anhour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after himand immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by twowomen who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards thepump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died inless than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by anumerous attendance of his fellow-workmen--had a good coffin. 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH. 

About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash oflightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued sometime, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into aperspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned withredoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; itwas truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly theworst. This was admitted by Mr. W. And also the driver of the stage whodid not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent overto Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr. Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go outtogether at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jacksonand also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagnewith my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and threedaughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary wherevicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thencewe visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form;all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in forone hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to theAlms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to theHospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spentthe evening at Mr. Hulme's. 

THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH. 

Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst hefetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old schoolcompanion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleanedby a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off atnine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gonefrom home to a farm about three miles further to which they wereremoving in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquiredabout his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled withmills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago. Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observedthe college[11] building by Girard's money and on getting into the cityentered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard twotrials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing abiscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy onaccount of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, veryclever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collectionof animals, birds, etc. , also some good portraits of distinguishedpeople, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr. Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yardshigh. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's--12 o'clock. 

FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH. 

Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soonafter six. A vast crowd of people some to N. Y. And others to Baltimore. Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met withRichard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; avery great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possibleto stand upon deck. 

After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked withme through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only avery plain edifice with two good pictures; charged 1/4 dollar, by azealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man whowished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine columnof white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to theCourt House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round. Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded toWashington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentionedwriting home from Washington and Boston. 

Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music andsinging and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon afterten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in thiscountry, being so useful in driving away the flies. 

SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST. 

Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heatedand feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, asquare of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, oursNo. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotelmore extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, aspecies of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curiousworking dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hoveringover some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at twoo'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner avery heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and theevening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps anextensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems alittle, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly sevenyears from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get onto a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the oldcountry. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, orHead's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feelingvery well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND. 

Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook saidhad been very vivid. 

Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, abeautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermonMatthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautifulplace something like the _nisi prius_ Court at Lancaster. Each memberhas his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keepsenlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallerybehind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies. 

Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being noparticular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began togather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, whichcontinually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Setoff alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C. [12] nothing minding, and infact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able toget along between every flash, found no service in consequence of thestorm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessingthe sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunatethat it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but madepleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to thegalleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting. 

MONDAY, JUNE 23RD. 

Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had apleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving awaythe flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not commonto sell slaves by public auction. F. T. Said it was believed that ifmade free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioningSt. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different raceof men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M. P. For New York, to see the President[13]; waited a short time in an ante-room withothers, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books andpapers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, andon my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a littleconversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, whichhad dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, weleft him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the houseor palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or sixtimes a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were showninto the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but noteasily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walkedthrough the Dome containing several pictures, the _Declaration ofIndependence_, _Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis_, and _Washingtongiving up his Commission_. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced toMr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera hadmade terrible ravages last year at Lexington. 

TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH. 

Got up 1/4 before 5. Left Washington at 1/4 before 6. Arrived atAlexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge acrossthe Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Verywell received by means of a letter brought by R. C. From a Miss Adamsof Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastillepresented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Thenvisited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more likean oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of somecake and wine. 

Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; veryfew people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time todinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, asseveral members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed againstthe public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interestingdebates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and alsoremuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon. 

R. C. Is considered very fond of show--prefers very tight boots, yet hasfour or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs andgowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. By R. Crook whowill put it into the office at N. Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writinghome to Mr. B. From Boston. R. C. Mentioned his uncle Tipping[14]getting £5000 and not spending £500. 

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH. 

Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for aletter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visitedthe Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then toPishey Thompson[15] who kindly offered to go with me and also invited meto tea and to bring F. T. 

Went with F. T. To the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses ofIndian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containingconquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the roomcontaining the original Declaration of American Independence; alsoseveral treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd andBonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc. , etc. , and what was stillmore extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented bythe Emperor Alexander[16], valued at £1000; all these things were leftopen entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this Iconsider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they willsoon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away weexpressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they hadonly missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visitedboth Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful andwell-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my oldScotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning theIndian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson'swhere I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey Ithink, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend. 

THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH. 

Found another person in R. C. 's bed which made a little more precautionnecessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted thesecond piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10cents. 

Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty generalpractice. Sailed 1/4 past seven, observed some boats not more than oneyard across and about 5 yds. Long like small canoes. Saw two turtlesopposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal ofgrass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land bythe hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilstat Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars toCharlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Twointelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobaccoand spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead onthe road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. Thetrees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roadspaved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at ChestnutHill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey, and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said greatuncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes onlytwo or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horseskindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc. 

Got to Orange Court 1/4 past one, told we should be called at three;objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself, found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes areslaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed toremain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain themtogether; the worst are generally disposed of first. 

FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH. 

Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the roadworse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full ofruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival atGordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudgeas the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one ortwo places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosedboars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; ablack snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little fartheron a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful treesrising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks coveringthe bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesvilleat ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of fallingespecially when jolting. 

Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinnerwith excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw greatquantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit. 

Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes thedriver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quitewonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here arebuilt as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, ordove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clayor mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees. 

SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH. 

Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of onlytwo hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointedabout getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a colouredman whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers trulyAmerican, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed througha forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach andleft a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4past seven A. M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in thistown because not much frequented except at certain seasons to thespring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep partof the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had toresume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quiteastounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale onvenison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, aGerman who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with threeothers; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us. 

I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted toenter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on aterrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It clearedup and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending tothe warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt weshould have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs atseven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, thoughonly called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed thoughnot disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH. 

Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. Thebedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past fourbut not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirtwas made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I steptdown to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn thedegrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chieflycovered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing thesemountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile fromSulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, thewater a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of anelderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, afamily from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and twodaughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born inLondon. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and partedreluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off toLewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. Thehill before descending to the White Sulphur Spring I find is theback-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, andwestward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have beenso numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the treesthat are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others havebeen fired by lightning and others split by the same means. Adouble-bedded room. 

MONDAY, JUNE 30TH. 

Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress. There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one ofthe members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who wasreturning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak. 

The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc. , also acurious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock, 1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, those below looking mere shrubs. 

As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down, therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongsidethe rocks overhanging the river. Arrived 1/4 before ten at Kanawha, gotsupper and to bed at 1/4 past ten, to be called up at half past three. Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one ofthe beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. Thenames of the two M. P. 's were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I hadthe first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rathermercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste. 

TUESDAY, JULY 1ST. 

Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed twolittle bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten;these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. Abeautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountainsof fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, ongood coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Anotheryoung bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65, 000 pigs drivenlast year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine ispumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains onboth sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of thesurface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it wouldcontinue burning a week or two unless put out by rain. 

Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled withpassengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I gotoutside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insistedon the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had apleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. Ondescending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little onthe bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we fordedthe river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived atGuyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and enteredthe mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding thelightning and the shaking of the vessel. 

WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND. 

Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could beadjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown intothe river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes ofhot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville includingbreakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boysinging about "Father fighting for him and liberty, " "Tennessee andliberty. "

Arrived at Maysville at half past one. 

Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar andice, also several herbs, mint, etc. , mingled together, making a richlyflavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but somecucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterdaya chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, mostdelightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose lastwinter but one, 63 feet. 

Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is highand consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are oftenpassing up and down this noble river. 

THURSDAY, JULY 3RD. 

Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in tilleight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to putdown the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunderwhich became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed andbreakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horsesrevolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits orale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best andworst roads in the U. S. Some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Cameto the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemonjuice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having hadnothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. AndMrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerableregret. Mr. M. Had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at teno'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three bedsin the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a gooddeal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. Theland rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated. 

FRIDAY, JULY 4TH. 

Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M. ;rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, thatthe Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. Heoffered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drumsannounced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated inan extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monkswas sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news ofhis brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexingtonand settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of abrother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter marriedand settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehementand abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, thelatter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogisedBonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles;several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed toenter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty. 

Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have left the room. Agentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisianacultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly anychildren. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks'brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two orthree hours till the stage left at 12. 

SATURDAY, JULY 5TH. 

Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these tookspecial care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way. The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. Arrived at Frankford at six A. M. , a very crowded inn. Never saw moredrinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc. ; broken glass on the floorand an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestonemacadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my legclimbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeablebreeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. Oncoming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge;changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hotbetween the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P. M. And feltless tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on forsome days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office twomiles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learnnothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information. Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying withspirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call againwhen he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight. 

SUNDAY, JULY 6TH. 

Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfastwith plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. Was at Louisville but expectedimmediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through avery large steamer, the _Mediterranean_, 600 tons capable of 800, andboilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to NewOrleans in five days, 1500 miles. 

Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusualdiscourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. And 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunesknown to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poorblacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women andchildren enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasantchat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 milesthrough rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young manhad been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and orderedto be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening fromthe text "Pure religion and undefiled, " the very best sermon I everheard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymouslanguage would be designated only a good moral sermon. 

Saw Mr. Hulme this evening. 

MONDAY, JULY 7TH. 

Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; notmuch alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high inthe thought that I am now at the most distant point from home. 

Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presentedme with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me onthe steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised himto write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawnout in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds andraisins. Dined about half past one. 

A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadlyworsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently toospeculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At sixtook some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off mycoat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from thechimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the_Mediterranean_ the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilerswith flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze withmuch thunder. 

TUESDAY, JULY 8TH. 

Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the smallof my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little givenme by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch, dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt intothe deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the _Erin_, another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain whenshe was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow. The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it wasenough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A. M. 

1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, 8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for tenmiles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellentbread, butter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems abetter conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilkfor which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, thatis logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river byrunning against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stageto Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went likemad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almosteverywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks. 

WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH. 

Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; suchroads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, throughpits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into smallfarms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad andmuddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called anational road. Well there were no other passengers or we should havebeen hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such aflood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard ofgranite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had tobe ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I wasinformed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During thenight the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to getout, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting sometime they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and gotin; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railingor walls, not even over the mountains or ridges. 

THURSDAY, JULY 10TH. 

Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only twopassengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesvillehalf past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread andpoor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling aspaid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the dragchain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. Alarge waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I foundthe coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed somecoal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generallythe case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubledwith water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P. M. , toolate to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnatiat one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hourswe are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four othersin the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon theroad, especially being confined a day or two in some littleuninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, andshould not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more wehave, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of thecountry on both sides of the Ohio. 

FRIDAY, JULY 11TH. 

Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places inconsequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of awindlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering theposition of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of noboat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a littleearache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned bydisappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite andactually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers withoutfinding much from England; then read some good letters in the "NorthAmerican Magazine"; felt in better spirits. 

Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wildbeasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified byseeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former hadworn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper putshis head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as theanimal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary(only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 pastseven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the skyremarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found fromconversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday havebeen considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they hadoften seen. 

SATURDAY, JULY 12TH. 

Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coachquite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the countryis very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, theremainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of homeby the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamerslying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the lattera much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man onhis way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson(?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw themmake rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across theaqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112, 000 dollars. Called at the PostOffice, but again disappointed. 

Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this isone of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to theCatholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valleysurrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of ourEnglish towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appearhalf its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshedby the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and thisby way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen anyhorses' tails docked. 

SUNDAY, JULY 13TH. 

Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost thefirst potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means ofa steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one;hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Severallarge ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets andexcellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had inAmerica. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town aMr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. But not considered soclever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side theAlleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a milerolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remainedwith it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, itis supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbathevening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon verysplendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25cents. 

MONDAY, JULY 14TH. 

Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of thepassengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feeluncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred bybeing told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from thesame stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep. 

Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here Iparted with Mr. K. And his sick companion who is a paper maker. An oldintelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had donevery well, was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domesticafflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm butluckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warmand a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got aglass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stagefilled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and chokedwith dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie athalf past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I wentupstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of aboat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only atrick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose;without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places behurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasingintelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they mightimprove the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, butwere objected to as unconstitutional. 

TUESDAY, JULY 15TH. 

Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better thanpushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the oldIrishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. That the young onewe had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoondischarge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board thesteamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8A. M. Not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall belate before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to oneof the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A mostdelightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed onthe coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board byMethodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath beforedinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon theladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer, " in whicha correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripturewas not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder andrecommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P. M. A very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn;an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of achange in the English Ministry. 

WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH. 

Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had timefor such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to theboats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickorynuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, hislady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A. M. ;found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrivedat Niagara soon after four P. M. Immediately set off to the Falls;engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eatennothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over theRapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immensesheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe;returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase betweenthe two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendousFall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam wasblown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into theair, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended thetower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above aswell as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same groundand had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle. 

THURSDAY, JULY 17TH. 

Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paidthe porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. Afavourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the waterin parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for mybaggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man whocame in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused andset off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up thehill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as itproved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. Afterchanging my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to theFalls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put ontrousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, anddescended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placedunder the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path isnarrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at oneplace we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I mustsay it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled atremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing muchis to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visitmight be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside ofthe rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to theFalls alone by moonlight. 

FRIDAY, JULY 18TH. 

Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, stillmore magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the wholeHorseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom thewater is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, toodazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls ingentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left ateleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into abay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly toNiagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one ofour passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the EastIndies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadianand an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half pastnine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist, " and a map, but found the shopsclosed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fullyoccupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock'smonument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollarsfor passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the_Great Britain_ to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and thecabin spacious and neat. 

SATURDAY, JULY 19TH. 

Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 ontea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada papercontaining rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also aconceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligentgentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labourin this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a fewdollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able tomake more of these savings by further investments or speculations. Hethought there was much less learning among the young men in America;they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feelindependent and able to get on, and consequently little under thecontrol of the parents unless wealthy. 

Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four;got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the LakeOntario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with freshercomplexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the waterconsiderably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two youngmen that are purposing going to Quebec. 

SUNDAY, JULY 20TH. 

During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Gotup at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a littlequalmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went onshore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisyinstruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced;then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel andthe paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck inour steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, etc. ; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18] comes tothis place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of oldEngland? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An oldCanadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepyand dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a prettylittle town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon afternine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying;still I shall go on, hoping for the best. 

MONDAY, JULY 21ST. 

Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- Englishfor bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side andtwo small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. Long and 1/3 deep turningnearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank andisland. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail mostdelightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, oneside a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as theyare called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20]1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep inthe river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees differentto ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called atSt. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one ofthem caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped intothe river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the watertowards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An oldfemale Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a littleone. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholicchant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; moreRapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since myvisit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days havebeen spent delightfully. 

TUESDAY, JULY 22ND. 

Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dearfather. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up themountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a gooddeal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not sopleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see someruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into theCathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each sideand the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walkedto the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but foundnothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Justbefore dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was notgoing to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me theagents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers, but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected morepassengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermudasauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, tobe delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seenall that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal;fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean. 

WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD. 

Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stageoffice to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr. Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder!Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by thewharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. Inaddition to the _St. George_ there is the Canadian steamer the _Eagle_so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has beenunusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in thenews-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemenat table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from thishouse; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all thesecircumstances. Went on board the _St. George_ steamer at eight, a noblevessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore, a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera;she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform theyoung man. 

THURSDAY, JULY 24TH. 

Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothesnot being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market;Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few redcurrants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with differentkinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined withneat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentriccollar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late;the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favourso that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurriedto the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D. 's. The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P. O. Foundhis son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist'sshop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, whohad come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the caseduring the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; thecholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 milesoff. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospitaland then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us. 

FRIDAY, JULY 25TH. 

Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. Athunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving awaythe cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took acalash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open spaceon the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to hisgrandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomasengaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming threemiles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. His wife soon told me of T. 's irregularities which caused him to leavethe school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break hisconnections; their neighbours gone except two or three the mostvillainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers wouldfetch away hay to pay T. 's shots. After dinner T. And I set off toBeauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, andwere only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, andthere had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ atthe Cathedral. 

SATURDAY, JULY 26TH. 

Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) atsix, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in allmy journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls;a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointedwith the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; astrong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walkedwith T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's gravestone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had amagnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendousstaircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossedover the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowedin a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Foundtwo pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars forgoing to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed atseven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, thelatter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found hewas a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons. 

SUNDAY, JULY 27TH. 

Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion anddanger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the firsttime. Introduced by W. M. To a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants onthe _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken assecurity. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal athalf past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though theCaptain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several ofus were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat fortwo dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not tofind the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off tomeet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it wasgetting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me;got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal ofagitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we wereall pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find thefour passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage withfour horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer notwaiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behavedvery ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it didnot sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for twodollars. Arrived after twelve. 

MONDAY, JULY 28TH. 

Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc. , just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the verynicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sickcities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health andspirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shoreslow, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all thespoons, etc. , of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part allsorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Askeda dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint ofport wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of thewaiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off withoutonce looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officercame on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition theycontained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands withdistant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; anavalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, thewater pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had toattend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked afterluggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed inthe most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat letdown with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcelystopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offermade to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs:afterwards had a comfortable bedroom. 

TUESDAY, JULY 29TH. 

A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] atTiconderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot ofLake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; twosaws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river chokedwith bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other sidetwo Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines andalso with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire abouttwo years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pinesare still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting;several islands. 

Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollarshe not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; hethen recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble aboutbeds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, alsowhinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early andbreakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine. 

WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH. 

Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed aplace where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls onthe Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to alittle Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, theriver being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride verydelightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreementbeing 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotelto see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemenhad their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, andgentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the"American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by agentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ballat the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling oneanother round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156. 

THURSDAY, JULY 31ST. 

Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitorsleaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring. Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by agentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take theplace, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston thecarriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like tohave squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passageover and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the sameon landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses andengine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cutthrough and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with aninteresting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to theriver and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. Unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and groovingmill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then agrand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then theCapitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had amagnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a planemanufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2. 

FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST. 

Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and downthe streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go byanother route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two withthe driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account ofa lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passedrather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers hadleft, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in hisregard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had agood deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut intoslabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going atonce. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee andtough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheepland, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainousand forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still betterfencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived atSpringfield at half past seven P. M. ; though only stopping till three inthe morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America. Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight. Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 2ND. 

Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passedmanufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half pastone; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newlypainted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hillywith uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twentymiles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hencethere are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to removeand the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit withthe driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it becamecloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four mileswhen it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, andone yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived atBoston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milkand bread. 

SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD. 

Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out forDr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. Hiscolleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furnissof Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King'sChapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v;but a poor sermon. Mr. G. Read the service of the Lord's Supper; afterkneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed theelements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon Iwent to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleasedby a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29v. , mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address tothe Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship verynice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation;well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went tohear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2. 

MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH. 

Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House andreturned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to theHotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driverand I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed overCambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which issuperior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not thecommanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. Themonuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on anotherside of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument tothe memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own wayback and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called uponMr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; amagnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships tobe repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long woodenbridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had afine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to taketea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter toMr. B. On which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. Livingstone. 

TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH. 

Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stagewould soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collectingpassengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hourin getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hotday found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly asandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived atLowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpetmanufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introducedto the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no wayconnected with such business he took me through the spinning and weavingrooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the sameway, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; theBrussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumblingover wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tiedinto the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. Soextremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near twoo'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery allturned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then 1/2 hour forbreakfast, 3/4 of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12-3/4hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and ofdifferent tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did notarrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 2-1/2 dollars. This has been one of the mostdisagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter thismorning from James Dean. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH. 

Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; foundit a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide wasout. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enoughto walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is wellstored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the BritishGovernment; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the drydock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where theywere making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the _Columbus_ on the stocks, also the _Constitution_[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to theprison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak;and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: deliciouslemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on asandbank. Arrived at 4-1/2, a bold rocky coast; the water dashingbetween the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about tosternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied offand prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine(Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also aBlack Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of thisinteresting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age andquite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but wasdisappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over thecity. 

THURSDAY, AUGUST 7TH. 

Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black teacooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mountedthe roof of the coach, nearly half way, but it was so warm that I wentwithin. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; theland poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several smallfactories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived inProvidence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned toFranklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up afterdinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was intown; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and Ishould have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durstnot venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them onimmediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting myfeet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on thesofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses ofmilk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksoniandiscussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took apleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottestday they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boysbathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Founda steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass ofmilk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long. 

FRIDAY, AUGUST 8TH. 

Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel buildingfor the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry forWilliam Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way ifI could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curiousfly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside linedwith treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon andwalked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known bythe latter but not by his father; walked into the house just by, tooksome cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfullywarm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot anddrove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but wassent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquiredafter my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on andjust got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leavewithout seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go withme. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on theSunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems verywell off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 9TH. 

Rose at six. Found G. C. Waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visitJoseph); set off 1/4 before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown toG. 's wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke muchof my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did notknow me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fearis not doing much good; it is leased, and 2/3rds of the machinery isGeorge's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also thereis the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quietJoseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out tointerest and with two houses at Providence he might have beencomfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at acotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah'seldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sortof girl, that had worked with and known the family; the house wellfurnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to belater than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was stillliving though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Annthe two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleasedto find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a verygood one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting sometime, paid 3-1/2 dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C. 's wifenot well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is notdoing well. Saw a snake crossing the road. 

SUNDAY, AUGUST 10TH. 

Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing atNewport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to thesteamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared upand I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about fivemiles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and NewYork steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old grufffellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed withfive others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another withthree beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to takethis, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length onewas pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. Astranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place ofworship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it wasUnitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place andheard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This provedEpiscopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small roomwith five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three. I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, andfound it to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amendsfor this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman Ihad seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went tohear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregationnumerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a largeproportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little baywhere some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstandingthe sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasantbathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would havebeen numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability. 

MONDAY, AUGUST 11TH. 

Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all thethree beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting uponfour sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the slopingceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the PostOffice. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16" × 24". Set off to visit Dr. Channing[27] at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to thehouse and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by thesame stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee andshake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped intothe house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channingand sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with astout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, andwas told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone withhis father; expected them to stay a fortnight. Saw a curious bee-hive, and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. Was generally inbetter health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday atPortsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seennoted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at hisstudies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. And back, 75 cents. Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, sothat they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Tookcoffee and fish, etc. , with about 200 people; walked again some time ondeck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentlemantold me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon tookpossession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also largewaves. 

TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH. 

Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothesquite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, andgave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau andput on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 milesfrom New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry andput on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a verynarrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. Afine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharfabout the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking tothe Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, andgot my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean lookingthinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law;he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc. ; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired ofstanding to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured twopeaches; was charged 3_d. _ T. D. Kindly invited me to his house; hadpurchased one for 11, 000 dollars; would have given 12 as he consideredit worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a blackwaiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me outin a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to anotherpart of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. Mrs. D. Much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; didnot see the infant. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH. 

Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadlyinfested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a largeswamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down andread with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off tobathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large inconsequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim butamused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoesand also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two andprevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announceddinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our placesat the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill offare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a headof corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. Afterdinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old mattersat home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read fromEnglish papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half pastnine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times anddied in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. 155. 

THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH. 

Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than Iexpected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockingscoloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed withthese terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took alittle refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New Yorka little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walkedinto Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book ofpsalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building inBroadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. Through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles(to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, theusual charge 6_d. _ but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at halfprice. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced greatinconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquitobites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse;found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stallsnarrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East Riverto see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then bymeans of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. Thetides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return foundJackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing andtalking all the time. 

FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH. 

Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though agood deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast playedsome of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. To the end of theisland, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson. Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and othersgathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the otherside towards Harlem a fine spacious road. 

Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearanceof a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalmtunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, therewas a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; stillitching and swelled from the mosquitoes. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 16TH. 

Rose 1/4 before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon notcoming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placedon; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board the _North America_, found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents justwhat I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number thanusual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat islowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haulin towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to theend of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, andthe helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish(sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water. 

A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29] half past three;got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain1/4 past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at 1/4 past 8;having been in four hours in one part alternately hot and in anotherpiercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible;very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas. 

SUNDAY, AUGUST 17TH. 

Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle ofthe night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to thetop of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midstof pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded withfields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lakeglittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other sidemountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had adelightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, tothe falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems toproject more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum ishard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part ofthe mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the mostmagnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderfulprospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had timeand friends I could pass a week very well. 

I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was goingand he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like ourEnglish summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, assoon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take thestage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, 1/2 a dollar for tea and bed. Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasantchat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had beenseveral years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8;heavy rain. 

MONDAY, AUGUST 18TH. 

Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only five in the stage;by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five atCairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver;fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on thetable part of the mountain. 

Got to Wareham 1/4 before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. Adelightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifyingthe view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last fourmiles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room. Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state ofthe roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place. At Bloomville at 1/4 past 4; the last seven miles the valley has beenwidening. Arrived at Delhi 1/4 before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; avery rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice ofbread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on thetop, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, butI did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, butit did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing theAmericans that I made no distinction. 

TUESDAY, AUGUST 19TH. 

Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to waitnearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stagewas considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 centsfor Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by thedriver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongstthemselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially theIrish; arrived at half past eleven. Paid a dollar to Montrose and setoff at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made menot think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almostat the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton aclumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had controlover it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up thesteepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook ofsome nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travellingconsidering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 milesoff and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as wellhave remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be somethinginteresting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringingme nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes ofgetting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights. Put away the wool from my sore. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 20TH. 

Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on toPike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I foundhim; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individualsimproperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more thanthe removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of thecountry; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought itshould have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. Should have beencalled to account. The President had no right to renew the depositswithout consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; theRepresentatives support him on account of popularity. A most interestingaccount of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwillingto sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13miles Hitchcock's saw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go onwith me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped outto enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He liveshere, " I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner andolder; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch hermother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; onentering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then criedout "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficultyof breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. Asheep was killed. 

THURSDAY, AUGUST 21ST. 

Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurryand fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her oldfeatures, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. AnAmerican breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes likecrumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; avery large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock ofhay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, tomake the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on theslope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each sideof the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, twohorses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consistsof coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakesresembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the sameat dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from themaple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide thesap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginningof April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung overby means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, asupply for the year. They make their own candles and soap, the latterfrom the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortablysettled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us. 

FRIDAY, AUGUST 22ND. 

John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girlemployed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a mostcheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, acarpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good forher. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannahrather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Marthathe youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little personand says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of oldfriends in England; related some grievances of the family not treatinghim with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond ofvisiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animalcalled a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered goodfood and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband cameabout eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks theyeat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked;both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequentlycatches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, thebest was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 23RD. 

The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to beburned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home forfires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociableand kind, particularly attentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing likestealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice wasfirst ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, butwas better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to beinsensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commencedspitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of theheart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires agood deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is oftenrunning; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. Thebattlements of bridges generally coped with wood. 

SUNDAY, AUGUST 24TH. 

Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off tothe Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many otherhorses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as weshould say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that inwinter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The MinisterSamuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; veryorthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon themercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord'sSupper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides tomake room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handedto the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same withthe wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service intodisgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore noservice in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk throughthe orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15thof May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and wechatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier. 

MONDAY, AUGUST 25TH. 

After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of thewaggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual witha great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good dealabout her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might bepossible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the mostsatisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to seethem get on and wished them to have a little company; was told thatthere were very few round about but what were more or less in theirdebt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars ofMary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Annthe prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and goodtempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed butcannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John buthe has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat. 

TUESDAY, AUGUST 26TH. 

In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrowat the thought of my going; continually finding something to send;opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought thestage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to seeeach other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "Godbless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of theway. Got to Orrell 1/4 past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceededin 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles verydisagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87-1/2 cents. Met with Mr. Overton anEnglish gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me tohis house, gave me wine then took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandseya hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paidfare to Berwick 3-1/2 dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very gladto find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All alongthe locusts had been destroyed. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 27TH. 

Left Towanda 1/4 before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnutand oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired ifno mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; onepart of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees andall this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got adraught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at awedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of thehorses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit onaccount of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America wasthe place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and onlyone had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending themountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost ashoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrivedsoon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have beenexpected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to goover a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at 1/2 past 12, gotcoffee 25 cents; passage 1-3/4 dollars. 

THURSDAY, AUGUST 28TH. 

A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Gotto Northumberland before 10. Large frogs at one part in the canal. Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much andbeen unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chatwith the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, oneabout 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a verypleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. Gaveme a note to Dr. Priestley's[30] grandson at the Bank, and desired me toask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, thesecond daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would havebeen impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us. 

FRIDAY, AUGUST 29TH. 

Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, good coffee, 37-1/2 cents, and 2-1/2 dollars to Pottsville. Walked withMr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where hedied; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13-1/2 miles. Amost delightful morning. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 30TH. 

Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholicpriest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, apleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted atTuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had latelybeen erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow pathcovered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coalis worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails toMauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc. , etc. The waggon andcars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of aconnecting rope, and the mules also ride down to draw up the emptywaggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romanticallysituated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Leftmy friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap 1/4 past 2, an interestingdrive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greyslike that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal andriver; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal ofDutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton 1/4 past seven. Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare toPhiladelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia. Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8. 

SUNDAY, AUGUST 31ST. 

Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of woodsuspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a littledrizzling rain; the button trees[31] again; apples more plentiful; thedrive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; thewoods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Hadcoffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better clearedand the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman whoburned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stablingshut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver saidthese canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Mostbeautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this isgenerally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at theWhite Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be agood inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing andchanging my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in theevening; went and heard a most excellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12and 2 verse, "Look to Him. " He mentioned the general desire to do wellbut the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the mostinfluential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His twonatures. 

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1ST. 

Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremelyfortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, nothaving had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowedan old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. Gone toN. Y. And also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop withMr. H. During my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; foundhim in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but notseeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and readthe English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr. Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, helives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, andcarries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. A very sensible mangreatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; wellacquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with theMasons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England. Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blackingtrade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old butcheerful. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2ND. 

Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M. Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and sawa steamer going to N. Y. Observed a good many persons fishing withoutmuch success; then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr. Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House intoWalnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found ayounger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Tayloron his way to N. Y. To see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the youngerbrother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper. Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain thestreets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appearremarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has tenthousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards. 

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3RD. 

Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Thencalled upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turninggray; he was settled many years at a college at Charlestonadvantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he hasnow a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; hismother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father acompanion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning tosay that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selectedsome more books for N. M. 's family and wrote two letters to N. M. , andhis daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr. Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a privatemuseum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc. , also some fine workson natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collectionof specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton ridingon horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle. Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield'sbut did not see Mr. Wood. Then set off to an election meeting and heardsome good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. Anattempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J. Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 4TH. 

Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply ofeverything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars;vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melonssix to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once MissRobson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and EstherScholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young FrankTaylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it inEngland. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. Said it was amysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same withsealing wax till it was tried. F. T. Desired me to send C. D. Over andhe would show him 10, 000 different insects every year. Called again uponthe Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr. Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair andalso that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V. , asked whethertea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Calledagain at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. Had not returned from N. Y. Urged verymuch to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. Desires me to say at the Dean'sfoundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land inCanada; and had children. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5TH. 

Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. Busywriting, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. And hisold acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemedto know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 years trying to findout each other. " Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chairI scrambled up the wall and read as follows:

 Benjamin and } Deborah } Franklin. 

Found a blind school to be a favourite object with Mr. V. , presented tendollars. Found Mr. Scholfield at the hotel with several pamphlets. Heand his son-in-law Patten, and young Moss accompanied me to the steamer. Old Mr. V. Met me there and also young Hodkinson. Found it necessary totear myself away from Philadelphia as the longer I stayed the moredifficulty in getting away. Left at 10-1/2, got to Trenton about two, rained most of the way. Finding no stage to Laurenceville engaged adearborn[32] or covered gig for another 1/4 dollar. Learned on my waythat John was gone from home. Found Mr. And Mrs. Bowker, also a youngRollanson nephew of Mr. J. R. At Philadelphia with W. B. To learnfarming. Immediately had coffee, then peaches and melons most of theafternoon, then tea and more fruit. A chat and to bed at half past nine. Slept with young Rollanson. 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 6TH. 

Got up soon after six; rested pretty well. Set off to Trenton tomarket, purchased a basket of peaches for 20 cents. Had someconversation with a lusty ironmonger, etc. , then purchased a littlegingerbread and two pair neck laces 3/4 dollars. Drove back another way, part of the road through the forest. Ate some more most deliciousmelons, set off to Laurenceville Post Office, got the American Farmers'monthly publication; then called upon Mr. Phillips, a very sensiblepleasant gentleman; also Mrs. P. From Philadelphia. After dinner satunder the shade of the trees near the house chatting about home, thenwalked into the cornfields. Some corn ten to twenty feet high, with ears12 to 16 inches, then through the orchard, many of the Newtown Pippinsand others equally large, the ground covered with fine apples. Mr. B. Plucking one off the trees biting a piece throwing it to the ground. Thequantity, size, and quality truly surprising; more like a dream than areality. Then went to see some plowing, met with a serpent about twofeet long that jumped into some water. Mr. B. Got a large stick and atlength poked it out, the sting quite visible, it coiled itself up for aspring; he struck it and a whole frog was found in its belly undigestedand yet it was in pursuit of another. Mr. And Mrs. Green's son anddaughter came to spend the evening with us. Mr. G. An old settler, and aPuritan, said a long grace and then we had another melon feast. Mr. B. Gave them about a score of very fine ones; left the "Child's own Book. "

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7TH. 

Did not rise until after seven; Mr. B. Presented me with tips of Indianarrows for Mr. Baker and C. D. After breakfast Mr. B. And I walked outtogether, visited the family graveyard 5 or 6 of the old settlers, Brearley buried in 1756, about 50 years of age, and younger branches ofthe family. Partook of some more melons, truly delicious. Set off toChurch, found a nice spacious clean place; a poor respectable audiencerigged out as Mr. B. Said in their best, the singing chiefly managed byone person in the Walmsley tone; as in all other places not much joinedin by the congregation; the prayers simple and unobjectionable, but thesermon very poor, ultra orthodox thing, text 8 Romans, first six verses, Original sin, morality, etc. Worse than Pike Presbyterianism, and worsethan English Calvinism, Redemption by Christ deferred till next Sundaywhen the Sacrament will be delivered; notice of two new members havingbeen examined and then admitted. Mr. Axton the minister a man about 30years old, gives notice of a giving day when all kinds of presents aremade. Tea, etc. , prepared by the young folks, and the young ladies serveit out; only one service. Engaged to visit at Mr. Clarke's whosedaughter is engaged to Jonathan Bowker, she is a pleasing unaffectedperson. On returning from Chapel I expressed a very great wish to see ahumming bird. Mr. B. Said they were often about some flowers near thepump; just coming to the house I observed one not much larger than alarge bee, going into one of the red flowers resembling the honeysuckle. 

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH. 

Got up at five; left Laurenceville about six, Mr. B. Engaged in writingletters till three o'clock. Mr. B. Mentioned a great desire to assisthis brother, said £100 for two or three years would enable him to do so;having such favourable accounts from Mr. Hulme and Mr. Walker I promisedto send him that sum. Met the young Taylors on the railway, ate somepeaches; offered a loan of £100 to F. Taylor but he thankfully declined. Agreed to meet the younger T. At the steamboat at six the followingmorning. Walked to F. D. 's warehouse and there found another letter fromC. D. All well. Wrote a short letter to C. Telling them of my return bythe _Hibernia_ on the 10th. Spent the evening very pleasantly with theD. 's. Mrs. D. Not very well having been obliged to stop suckling herlittle one. J. D. Charged 62 cents for 100 dollars upon all property. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH. 

This morning rose soon after five with the intention of going toPoughkeepsie; but there hardly appeared time to get to the steamboat, and a shower of rain settled the matter. Engaged all forenoon in readingthe "Bolton Chronicle, " July 5, saw an account of uncle Yates's death. Walked into the town; visited the great book sale, purchased at Carvilleanother copy of the "American Tourist" for 1-1/2 dollars. Called uponMr. Crook and walked through his warehouse, a large stock of cotton, woollen blankets, counterpanes and stockings. Found R. Crook going bythe _Hibernia_; walked with James Dean to the Wharf and took my berthin the _Hibernia_ for Liverpool; found the Captain pleasing but not soexperienced as Captain S. K. Took dinner at the Franklin House, roastedturkey, bread and potatoes with some apple pie and a glass of water for9_d. _; then called upon a Mr. Butcher from Sheffield at Mr. Bliss's;took two glassfuls of Madeira, almost tipsy. Bought a razor strop fortwo dollars; then to J. D. After tea; went to a Mr. Alexander Taylorwhere Frank was stopping, found him a jovial pleasant man, also Mrs. T. Formerly Burton, and sister-in-law to Joseph Wood's wife, and cousin toWilliam R. Crook, like J. D. , converted by his wife; so much forUnitarianism. 

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10TH. 

Got up at five. Jones's phaeton came up soon after, he drove me to thesteamer _Erie_, just in time, as usual both boats full; a delightfulmorning, met several steamboats one towing two boats on each side andone behind. The rocks on the west side very steep and the strata veryperpendicular. Paid for passage and breakfast 87-1/2 cents, butunfortunately no milk. About 100 at the first table; saw some sturgeonsleap out of the water. The scenery up the Hudson the finest in theneighbourhood of West Point. Very pleasant and quite cool enough. Got toPoughkeepsie at half-past eleven. Found Miss J. And Miss Mary at home ina pleasant house in Union Street, though the scene of the cholera thelast two years. After dinner drove through the town to Dr. H. 's gardenabout four miles; the grounds pretty and the walks delightful along theHudson. Had another peep at the Hotel on the Catskill Mountain; the Dr. Very kind and we spent the evening very pleasantly: Mr. J. Lookingbetter than in England and Mary taller, both greatly attached to the oldcountry. Robert is married and living with Mrs. J. , and Mrs. R. Like allAmerican wives appears delicate. A good deal said against the morals ofthe poor Americans, no relying on their word, lax habits. Paid for thecarriage three dollars. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 11TH. 

Rose at seven. Soon after breakfast I visited the cemetery and copiedthe lines on John Taylor. The morning cool; after another chat went tothe steamer with Hudson; we were too soon but I enjoyed the sceneryparticularly the ingenious management of a sloop. At 1/4 before 12observed the two boats sailing nearly together. The smaller got in firstbut persuaded by Hudson I took the larger the _Champlain_, sailed 5minutes past 12 racing and betting, as on horses. Paid for passage anddinner 1 dollar. The most romantic part of the Hudson near West Point;one fellow devoured almost more butter at dinner than all Mr. Whitehead's family for a week. Do not observe many gentlemen's seats onthe banks of the Hudson on the New York side; the opposite is too rockyand precipitous. Observed a funeral supposed to be a negro, as all theattendants excepting the driver of the hearse were people of colour; twoof the first appeared to be ministers, both dressed with white cravats;a number on foot after the body, with two coaches filled mostly withfemales. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH. 

James Dean set off early to the warehouse. I walked with Thomas whowished me to speak to his brother lest he should indulge too freely indrink. Walked through the fruit market, found it well supplied, then thefish, found many all alive alivo. A cart load of cods weighed by meansof a double steel yard, one below and suspended from the other. The cartsuspended by a chain fastened to each axle outside the wheel, and thefront of the cart and the other wound up by a capstan. The grapes in themarket of a poor sort: no wonder that peaches and melons are preferred. Called at Mr. W. And received but poor accounts of Dr. Marsden who hasbeen worse since he left: thought he had liver complaint and heconsidered his lungs to be affected. Curious screw docks, eight on eachside raise the frame on which the ship is floated. After dinner at theFranklin House, James Dean and I set off to H. ; took a ride upon thecircular railway, watched them play at nine pins, the bowls returned bymeans of an inclined wooden conductor into which the balls are put bythe person who sets up the pins. Afterwards walked along a beautifulshady road with occasionally a glimpse at the Hudson and the beautifulwhite sails; then across an embankment over a swamp; along a beautifulroad and through the grounds and garden of Mr. King, where we had a mostcharming view of New York, the Hudson, etc. , etc. Could not get tea ateither hotel till the usual time; got very good coffee near the theatre, and only charged 19 cents each. Went to the theatre; very full; metWebster, he had seen all our passengers but Mr. Grindrod. Mr. Hamiltonwas about returning by Quebec, Mr. Cayley stopping with his brother atToronto. 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH. 

Called upon R. Wood; met with his wife and two children living in HebronStreet, second floor, 2 rooms connected by folding doors; the one rathersmart and the other a kitchen, etc. , etc. Bought another copy ofBryant's "Poems" the other given to Mrs. D. Called upon F. Taylor andagreed to call at Carville on Tuesday morning for letters from Mrs. J. Set off to bathe with James, and Thomas and his wife and daughter and aMiss Jones; a pleasant drive along the shore. Inspected the new fort, noguns mounted, more than a mile very heavy and sandy; took dinner; saw amosquito net. Approaching the town saw a fire. Called at a garden latelyowned by a Frenchman; went to see the fire, found it to be thePresbyterian Chapel in Wall Street. Much difficulty in getting throughthe street in consequence of the pipes, had to move back three times. Hard driving through Broadway; near running over several persons; oncebetween a car and omnibus the former stopping suddenly. A pleasant chattill half past ten. Mrs. Bliss stopped with the children during Mrs. D. 's absence, but was gone home before we returned. 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH. 

Set off and heard Mr. Wood; a reasonable sacrifice devoting ourselves atall times to God. A very respectable looking man but short ofenunciation. In going met Mr. Theodore Bliss, who informed us of Mrs. B. 's illness; at noon found her worse, the illness to be cholera. Wentto the Unitarian Church in Prince's Street, a gentleman from Carolinanot very interesting, heard the Communion Service by Mr. W. Allextempore; he breaks the bread which is partly cut, and then distributedby two gentlemen. Both churches are handsome and as usual very neat anduniform; good singing. In the evening James Dean and I took tea withyoung Crook; the "Isabella" vine with plenty of grapes but hardly ripe, also many peaches. Mrs. C. Invisible; the child about the same age as J. D. 's; a good many callers; went with one to hear Dr. Hawkes, an eloquentpreacher; the sermon was on "Stand forth, " a large proportion offemales, the contrary in all Unitarian places. Called upon AbrahamTaylor, saw Miss T. And a Mr. Armitage; got home about eleven. Mr. T. Desired me to tell Major Watkins that if politics drive him out of thecountry, he would receive him and make him as comfortable as possible. Scarcely one obscene word observed throughout the States, not more thantwo or three. 

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 15TH. 

Mrs. Bliss died yesterday at four. Ill little more than 12 hours. Curious that I should have been saying a day or two before, "What adifference if any of us had lost a friend or relation by the cholera. "Called upon Dr. Griscome and found him an amusing gentleman; could notfind Burnes' Coffee House to see for Cunliffe's letters, nor Bradnor whogave me the stick. A beautiful promenade near the Castle garden; visitedthe Museum; a large living serpent also an ant hedgehog; a goodcollection of stuffed birds besides, and also a cosmorama view ofdifferent cities, etc. , in Europe. Saw the two Woods, one a pianofortemaker and the other a carrier. Went up to Ted's. A suit of black lent meto attend Mrs. Bliss's funeral at four; did not much like the thought ofgoing; apprehensive about Mrs. D. Who cannot be persuaded to leave thehouse; about a dozen attended. Scarves given to the clergyman anddoctor, silk gloves to three or four of us. The coffin appeared to bemahogany with a small plate with name, etc. , the coffin uncovered andborne to the grave without much order. The service as the Church ofEngland, excepting omitting the chapter from Corinthians. Eightcarriages besides the hearse; after interment they separated. Mrs. D. Made an effort and came down to tea, and talked over the melancholyaffair. Set off after nine to try the American oysters, but did not likethem so well as ours, being more insipid. Busy packing up. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 16TH. 

Rose half past six; as usual another brilliant morning; Mrs. D. Atbreakfast. Ann Butcher, her niece will be with them now that Mrs. Blissis gone. Called upon Bradnor, had great difficulty in buying anothercopy of "Boy's Letter Writer. " Mr. Theodore Bliss came to T. D. 'swarehouse and accompanied us to the steamer, also Webster and R. Wood, and J. And T. Dean, and Abraham Taylor came with us in the steamer. Lunched, left us at one. Left New York at 11. The day truly delightful;only 7 passengers, dined at 4, but little wind and that not favourable;a shoal of porpoises, 6 and 8 close together. Gave T. D. 's servants twodollars. Am much pleased with the Captain, mate and crew, and also thepassengers. The steamer left us at 1 and the pilot at half past ten. Paid for washing 17 pieces including two night caps, 85 cents or2-1/2_d. _ each. 

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17TH. 

Passed the night pretty well, dreaming rather pleasantly. On getting upfelt qualmish and took a little coffee, but was soon forced to part withit. The wind increased with heavy rain so that all of us but Mr. Frankland (a Quaker) became sick. Took a little soup upstairs but didnot keep it long. Remained in the small house till eight. I think Iwould have escaped better but for the sudden rough weather. TheAmericans reckon to admire ladies of slender make and pale faces. Mrs. Dean said she knew a young healthy blooming robust girl from England, who had recourse to large quantities of vinegar; at the same timegirding herself very tight, so that she was now so reduced that shecould not suppose that she could live very long. Mrs. Taylor atPoughkeepsie confirmed the same, stating that young ladies stay awayfrom Church if the weather was at all unfavourable, lest they should beconsidered stout. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH. 

Lay in bed till after seven; as I do not like waiting so long forbreakfast (9 o'clock). Found we had not progressed much; the morningwarm and fine. Sick again. Took a little tea and dry toast with an egg, and found it more disposed to remain with me. Went on deck and was ableto read a few of Bryant's "Poems. " Took for lunch two peaches and threeslices of melon; again saw Mother Carey's chickens. Dined pretty wellupon soup, a slice of mutton, a peach pie, two peaches and three slicesof melon. Read some more B. 's "Poems, " and also Cobbett's "Advice toYoung Men. " Difference of time between New York and Liverpool 4 hoursand 44 minutes: also 4 dollars and 44 cents making our sovereign oftwenty shillings. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH. 

Rose at half past six, having passed the night comfortably with pleasantdreams, is this occasioned by an empty stomach? Found we had made littleway during the night; said to the second mate that we had got on veryquickly, but he said they had had a busy time of it, as the wind hadbeen in almost every point. I cannot but think that everything ismanaged much silenter than with the _Britannia_; a calm all day, theevening passed very pleasantly in general conversation. Finished readingBryant's "Poems, " some very good and highly descriptive. Had someconversation with several Irish women about returning home, afterwardsinsulted by some of their countrymen. The longitude is discovered bestby a good time piece. 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH. 

Got up at half past six, not having slept so well as when the stomachwas empty. Some conversation about Cobbett, most of them against himwithout knowing much about him. The wind favourable since three o'clock, going 6 to 8 knots an hour. Commenced reading Cobbett's "Life ofJackson. " Shuffleboard played. Several porpoises seen. A good manypetrels. After lunch a vessel suddenly appeared out of the mist with a Xupon it. Supposed to be either a French packet, or one to Philadelphia. Another vessel was seen this morning, another sail seen this eveningabout 5-1/2. Found two or three slices of melon with a biscuit to be agood lunch. 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST. 

Passed another good night, and rose at half past six. Found we had beenmaking about 5 knots an hour; three ships in sight; read beforebreakfast one of Cobbett's sermons "On hypocrisy. " In the forenoon twosermons from Chalmers's "Discourses on Commercial Integrity. " One of thesteerage passengers read from the Scriptures and commented sensibly, but he was laughed at by some graceless Irishmen. In the afternoon Mr. Hopkins proposed to address the passengers. After reading about thetalents he proceeded to speak of the Bible as the oldest and best Book. Paine, he said, had denounced it as a forgery, but various authors hadmentioned the N. T. Burnett had quoted Lord Clarendon: the Old Testamentwas much older and was so called at the time the New Testament waspublished; the difficulty of procuring a copy before the art ofprinting, if the best, each should strive to get a copy, also read itand understand it, but above all practice it; not to be compared with alibrary even extending across the Atlantic, because the one only treatedof this world, the other of that to come. Read three more of Channing's"Sermons, " one fully proving self interest to be the foundation even ofour best actions. After tea had a long chat respecting girls, etc. Aboutten went on deck, a most beautiful moonlight night; a nice breeze whichwe enjoyed much, after the calm day; more surprising considering theequinox. 

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND. 

Rose about seven; found the wind light but quite favourable. R. C. Not avery minute observer. He had never seen the phosphorus light in the seatill last night, though more than fifty days in going out. To-day thesame gentleman said he was disappointed with the view from Catskill; butadmitted that West Point was rather fine. Mr. Frankland had written homethe most glowing account of the scenery. The thermometer to-day 80degrees; nearly a dead calm all day till ten o'clock. Read a good dealof Cobbett's "Advice to Young Men. " Felt more languid and rather sickly, such as I experienced now and then during some parts of the hot weather. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD. 

Rose at half past six, found us going about six knots an hour, the windhaving been favourable since eleven. Finished reading Cobbett's "Adviceto Young Men. " A turtle observed; a fair wind and delightful all day;air and water 76 degrees, which perhaps is the cause of one feelinglanguid. 

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH. 

Passed another comfortable night; found we had been getting on well allnight; the air and water this morning 74 degrees; the wind favourablefrom 10 o'clock last night; read Ponreau's "Brief View of the AmericanConstitution"; also the three remaining of Channing's "Discourses, " thetwo first, and the two last excellent. Mr. Street mentions a younggentleman from Boston about to marry one of Mr. Woolley's daughters. Finished the evening by looking at the "Treatise on Singing. "

 The shortest passage to Liverpool 15 days 16 hours. The shortest passage to New York 17 days. James L. Wilson, _Hibernia. _

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH. 

Passed the night as usual; the contrast between this passage and thelast truly wonderful; no rolling or pitching; the wind rather less. About noon a sprinkling of rain which increased and the wind diminished. In the evening fair and a calm. Read half of Mrs. Trollope's "America, "and still consider it not so very bad. What a Tory is R. C. CallingBonaparte a great rogue, allowing him no merit hardly as a militarycharacter, violating every treaty, the English always right; when toldof B. Attending his soldiers ill of the plague, said others might andprobably would have done the same. After being baffled in argument, ifsuch assertions deserves to be so-called; he concluded by crying outChurch and King, when told that W. Scott only pointed out two or threeerrors he said he was not a proper Tory; may Toryism ever have such adefender! In the morning he had been decrying the commercial characterof the French. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH. 

Found the wind improved, more particularly since five o'clock. At seven8 or 9 knots an hour. A brig bound to the west. Water 71 and air 64degrees; still in part of the Gulf Stream which the Captain says seldomextends so far north. Passed a French brig at ten; the wind freshenedand we took in some sail. About 5 some sail torn by the wind. At threepassed another ship and brig nearly together; after dinner a small birdresembling our sparrow though rather larger and with speckled breast. The nearest point of land is at least 200 miles; it fluttered aboutrefusing any food, then flew into the ladies' cabin and there remainedduring the evening. 

Difference of time two hours from New York. 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH. 

Passed a more restless night, dreaming of my dear father and sisterMary, and that Charles Darbishire had become grey. After breakfast wepassed through an immense flock of gulls, also a little flag attached toa sort of basket, used by the French fishermen to fasten their lines. All night going about 8 or 9 knots. This morning at eight to half past, passed four vessels all in sight at once, several of them brigs, supposed to be French. At 3 twelve more sail, mostly fishing boats; verycold, the thermometer 46 and the water 45. 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH. 

Dreamed a good deal about my father and William Rothwell, G. Cunliffeand John Bolling, so did not rise till half past 7. Found we had beengoing all night about 8 knots; the water at seven, 55 degrees, at 9, 65degrees. 

After breakfast the wind gradually lessened, making only about 4 knots;the sails flapping and the ship rolling all the afternoon; particularlybetween 6 and 10, making it very noisy and disagreeable in the stateroom; had agreed for Mr. Street to read one of Chalmers's sermons, "Ongetting money, " but the creaking noise prevented my hearing. Read threeof Cobbett's sermons, "Bribery, " "Rights of the Poor" and "UnjustJudges, " also the remainder of Mrs. Trollope's "Description of Niagara. "

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 29TH. 

Did not rise till eight having not rested very well; also dreamed of mydear father being considered dead and going to be buried, and thencoming to life again. Found the wind changed to the south andconsequently much warmer; going 10 knots. About 8 or 9 since 10 lastnight. Air and water 64 degrees. The wind lessened about 4 and continuedbetween 6 and 7 knots. Commenced reading "The Vicar of Wakefield. "

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30TH. 

Rose soon after seven; the ship rolling more, so that I had difficultyin shaving. Found that we had been going about ten knots since five, andabout eight during the night. After breakfast, we shipped a sea whichsprinkled one whilst reading below. Finished the "Vicar of Wakefield. "One of the sails tore down. At one P. M. Observed a brig going westerly;the wind heavy and the canvas gradually taken in, till we had only apart of two sails of 1st and 2nd mast; fine waves that broke mostbeautifully curiously coloured, called "Dear little Kangaroos. "

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 1ST. 

Rose soon after seven, having passed the night pretty well, exceptingdreaming a good deal about travelling. Found the wind still favourablebut more north; going about eight knots. Passed a brig this morning. Commenced reading Hamilton's[33] "Men and Manners in America"; would bevery cold but for the sunshine. A good wind all day; sail reducedtowards evening in expectation of a gale, but it went off. 

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 2ND. 

Passed a restless night, the ship rolling a good deal; dreaming that myfather was at Bury attending one of our religious meetings, wearing oneof my ruffled shirts. I found we had been getting on, 8 or 9 knots tillabout five, since only 5 or 6, but should be thankful having had nearlya week's good run. About 4 knots all forenoon; at 12 a little more windwith some rain. A sail to the south-east; another brig in sight at 2o'clock. A few porpoises. 

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 3RD. 

Found the wind south-west and making about ten knots; this since eleveno'clock. Finished the first volume of the "Kentuckians" and read alittle in the "Youth's Letter-Writer. " A fair wind all day, going elevenknots; cold though the wind is south-west. 

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 4TH. 

The wind still favourable and from the south, making us all night aboutten knots. The Captain complains of the alterations made in this line ofpackets, since one of the old captains took a share. The seamen have tenor twelve dollars per month; the Captain is obliged to take a fourthshare; a loss if only two or three passengers; six or seven about paywith a fair cargo. This is Captain Wilson's 97th crossing; only 36 yearsold; went to sea at fourteen; married about four years ago a French ladyat Bordeaux, the father American, with the mother French; two children. A very wet disagreeable day, so that we could not take the usualexercise on deck, and yet tempted to eat more by way of pastime. Atdinner one or two Yankees found great fault with my saying "A good dealof factories, " declaring it to be bad English, in which Mr. Franklandalso acquiesced, thinking it improper to apply the word "deal" tonumbers; a deal of money, but not a deal of guineas. I admitted it mightbe more elegant, though the other was not inaccurate. (See "Johnson'sDic. ")

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5TH. 

Little or no wind, and that against us all night so that we have made noway. After all it is best to have the calm at night, more especially aswe approach the coast where we may expect to meet more ships. Passed abrig going to the east. A number of porpoises, some of the olderattended by their young. Read four or five more of Cobbett's "Sermons. "A good deal of conversation about the New York Banks, assisted by theYankees who would be ready to condemn the reading of Hamilton. Yesterdayat 2 had made 252 miles in 24 hours: 272 the most that was ever done byCaptain Wilson. 

MONDAY, OCTOBER 6TH. 

Did not get up till eight as I had not slept so well in consequence ofthe ship rolling a good deal. Found we have only been going five or sixknots during the night. All forenoon the wind light, not more than 4knots per hour. Went upon deck after nine and was much amused at seeingthe porpoises; some could be heard at a distance pushing through thewater and soon pass the ship; others would come close to the vesselsometimes two abreast, then would separate and one come with such forcethat I thought I could almost feel it hit the vessel. Played atShuffleboard which is done by sliding circular boards upon nine squareswith figures making 15 each way. 

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7TH. 

Did not rise till eight; a brilliant morning but found as expected, that we had had only light winds and made little progress through thenight. A most delightful day, sunshine with fair wind. At five, a cry of"Land, " we instantly went on deck and observed the Irish coast dimly onthe horizon. Read the remainder of the "Youth's Letter Writer, " and alsoHamilton's "Men and Manners, " also Meredith's "Orations. " Soon afterseeing the land I began to think of my late father and wept to think Ishould see him no more to relate my wonderful adventures. The wind hasbeen favourable all day and improved still more since noon. About halfpast six we perceived a lighthouse supposed to be at Kinsale. 

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8TH. 

Rose at six; found we had been going well all night; were then passingsome high land called Saltees[34]. Two vessels astern, one inward, theother outward bound. Heard the Captain up several times. Passed Tuskarlighthouse at eight; one or two towers and several white cottages. Passed Holyhead at five o'clock about five miles off. A glorious sailall day till half past five, then the sky assumed a stormy aspect, theclouds dark and flying in different directions. At half past six alighthouse hoisted us a signal for a pilot. In about fifteen minutes alight was observed which the Captain said was from a pilot's boat. In1/4 of an hour after the boat came up and sent off a small boatalongside, when a lusty pilot was at length pulled up into our ship. Hebrought a newspaper, Whitehaven, 15th July. Immediately the sail washauled in so that it scarcely moved, though the gale had considerablyincreased; though a clumsy sort of fellow we all felt easier and nodoubt shall sleep better. On coming opposite we hoisted signal 292 whichis the number of the _Hibernia_. 

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9TH. 

Last night the pilot came into the cabin at half past ten, and reportedthe gale to have abated. I turned in immediately to sleep on thefavourable intelligence. At twelve, the gale again increased but I wasunconscious. Rose before seven; found the wind still favourable. PassingGreat Orme's Head; two or three vessels about us, one the _Archer_ thatI saw at Quebec, we passed close by. At half past ten a boat came upwith four men to assist us in landing. They left Liverpool at twelve andtherefore exposed to the gale and all for 17/6. So true as Goldsmithsays, "One half the world does not know how the other half lives"; theboat 6-1/2 yards long and only about one foot above the water abaft. Another boat comes alongside; arrived opposite to Prince's Dock a littlebefore two; was nearly an hour in raising it, and then so long inhauling it into dock that I did not get ashore till half past three, toolate to pass the Customs house this evening. The first person I saw onshore known to me was young Crook, then Miss Crook and Mary Ann Marsden. Went to the Crooked Billet and engaged a bed; put the letter into theLiverpool Post Office from Mr. Webster and called with Mr. Bowker'sletter, but found the Aunt gone from home. Spent the evening at Mr. Crook's. 

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10TH. 

Changed a 2-3/4 dollars into 11/2; paid my bill at the Crooked Billet, 3/6 for wine, bed and breakfast and servants; went to Custom House; paidfor box of insects 1/6, not duty but entrance fee, 1/- for porteragefrom packet, they wanted much more, 6_d. _ for calling a car, the carmanasked 3/6 but on refusing he consented to take 2/6; not allowed to enterthe yard therefore paid another 6_d. _ to the porter, leaving me only 2/6and the fare to Bolton was 4/-. I looked out for some person I knew. Ispoke to a man that I thought was attached to the Bolton Branch, but hedid not prove so. Went to the office to desire that I might pay atBolton; he declined. I asked a lady but she shyed off, and it seemed asif I must stay till the afternoon's train. Luckily another gentleman whowas quite a stranger, said he would give me 5/-, he never lent tostrangers. The attendant at the Bolton Branch knew me and I borrowed themoney and paid my friend indeed, and should have been glad to have askedhim to dinner, but he was somewhat intoxicated. He wrote his name andasked me to call upon him at Birmingham, and enquire for Jack Norton. 

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11TH. 

I found my sister, her husband and little one with my mother. They hadjust dined; my father's absence overpowered me and I could eat littledinner. 

LETTERS

-1-

 Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834. 

 From THOS. HULME to PISHEY THOMPSON. 

My Dear Sir, Allow me to make you acquainted with our friend Mr. Robert Heywood, thebearer of this, who is a very respectable gentleman from our native townof Bolton and who was well acquainted with our old and much respectedfriend Dr. Taylor. 

Mr. Heywood is now on a tour of pleasure for the purpose of seeing aportion of this great and good country; which needs nothing but greatmen to render it one of the greatest and most wealthy, "and when themoral, in place of the criminal passions shall prevail, " one of the mosthappy nations in the world. As our friend may stop a few days inWashington, I thought he might spend a few hours pleasantly in yourstore, and if you can add anything to his pleasure and happiness byshowing him anything worth seeing in your wicked city, or by giving himany sort of useful information you will, by so doing, very much obligeyour

 Sincere friend, THOS. HULME. 

N. B. Please make Mr. Heywood acquainted with F. Taylor. 

-2-

 From Mr. HULME to Mr. JOHN SHACKFORD, Senate Chamber. 

 Philadelphia, 17th June, 1834. 

My Dear Sir, Allow me to introduce to you a friend and countryman, Mr. RobertHeywood, a very respectable gentleman from our native town of Bolton, who is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and good country, and whointends to visit an old countryman in Lexington, Kentucky, if he bestill living there. Have the goodness to make Mr. Heywood acquaintedwith Mr. Clay who probably may know his friend in Lexington, and pleaseintroduce him to any other of our friends with whom he or you may wishhim to be acquainted. These favours with any other kindnesses you mayrender to our friend will oblige very much your sincere friend

 THOS. HULME. 

-3-

 Philadelphia, 18th June, 1834. 

 To Mr. JOHN HULME. 

Dear John, The bearer, Mr. Robert Heywood, is from the town of Bolton, in ournative county and is on a tour of pleasure to see this great and goodcountry. Thee will show to him the L. & P. Canal and thee will give himsome idea of the quantity of merchandise which now passes through it, compared with the merchandise on the river ten years since. Thee canmake him acquainted with some of the good men in Louisville notforgetting our good old country folks Mr. & Mrs. Keats, to whom give mybest respects. Thee will make him acquainted with some of the bestoffices, of the best steamboats on the river, so that he may be welltreated. Thee will also give him good advice so as to enable him toavoid as much evil and to enjoy as much comfort and happiness aspossible, and by so doing thee will oblige very much thy trulyaffectionate father

 THOS. HULME. 

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Liverpool. 

[2] Richard Watson (1781-1833), Wesleyan Minister. 

[3] Richard Lemon Lander (1804-1834) accompanied Hugh Clapperton theAfrican explorer on his travels and wrote accounts of these. 

[4] Adam Fergusson. 

[5] Dead-lights = strong shutters made to fit the cabin window toprevent the water entering in a storm. 

[6] A fish caught on the rocky shores of New England (TautogaAmericana). 

[7] See a description of this phenomena in the _Nautical Mag. _ Oct. 1832. 

[8] Grampus, a fish similar to a whale, but carnivorous. 

[9] Presumably Basil Hall (1788-1844) who wrote books of his travels. 

[10] Frances Trollope (1780-1863) wife of Thomas Anthony Trollope, writer and novelist; visited America 1827-30. 

[11] Founded in 1831 by Étienne Girard, a native of France, for theeducation of orphans. 

[12] Richard Crook, a friend. 

[13] Andrew Jackson, President, 1829-1837. 

[14] William Tipping, a director of the L. N. W. Railway in England. 

[15] Pishey Thompson (1784-1862), historian of Boston. 

[16] Alexander I, Tsar of Russia, 1801-1825. 

[17] Since removed as unsafe. 

[18] The Canal from the Rideau Lake connects the Ottawa River and LakeOntario. 

[19] John George Lambton, Earl of Durham (1792-1840), was HighCommissioner in Canada. Author of "Report on the affairs of BritishNorth America. "

[20] The boundary between Canada and the United States. 

[21] Built in 1823-32. 

[22] Built by the French in 1755. 

[23] All three had recently been rebuilt. 

[24] Died at Boston 1832. 

[25] Erected 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker Hill 1775. 

[26] _Constitution_, American ship in war of 1813. 

[27] William Ellery Channing, D. D. , 1780-1842, Unitarian Minister atBoston from 1803 until his death. 

[28] The sunken reefs which made this dangerous to navigation wereremoved by nitro-glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885. 

[29] The Catskill Mountains rise abruptly from the Hudson 2000-3000 feethigh. 

[30] Dr. Priestley died at Northumberland, Pa. , 1804. 

[31] Botan. Conocarpus. 

[32] A light four-wheeled carriage. 

[33] Thomas Hamilton, 1789-1842. 

[34] Two small islands south-west of Wexford. 

Transcriber's Note:

 Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. Bearing in mind that the bulk of this text is a personal journal, irregular punctuation, use of hyphens and variant spellings remain as printed.