A JOURNEY IN RUSSIA IN 1858 _Sherratt and Hughes, Printers, 34 Cross Street, Manchester_ A Journey in Russia in 1858 BY ROBERT HEYWOOD Of The Pike, Bolton _PRIVATELY PRINTED_ EXPLANATION. This account of a journey to Russia was read by Mr. Heywood at a meetingof the Bolton Mechanics' Institute, and the following is a copy of aresolution passed on the occasion, with the signatures attached. WE, the undersigned members of the Committee of the Bolton Mechanics' Institution, having listened with much pleasure to Mr. Heywood's lecture on his recent visit to St. Petersburg and Moscow, and being desirous that the valuable information it supplies should be made available to our families, fellow workmen and others, who are greatly interested in the subject from the large commercial intercourse between this town and the capitals of Russia, beg leave most respectfully to request Mr. Heywood to publish the substance of his valuable paper for the gratification and information of the public. And we request the President of the Institution to wait upon Mr. Heywood with this requisition, and to use his best efforts to induce that gentleman to accede to our request. GILBERT J. FRENCH. THOS. HOLDEN. JOHN WRIGLEY. ALFRED RIDINGS. JAMES FOGG. ALEX. LAWSON. EDWARD BLAND. JOHN LOMAX. WM. JACKSON. THOMAS WATERHOUSE. JOSH. PEAT. J. J. BRADSHAW. THOMAS BROMLEY. JOSEPH KIRKHAM. ISAAC BARROW. ADAM FERGUSON. WILLIAM A. FERGUSON. W. H. HORROCKS. The request, however, was not put into execution. M. H. , 1918. A JOURNEY IN RUSSIA IN 1858. At the urgent request of our worthy and most active President, I havebeen induced to follow the example of several other friends of thisInstitution, and bring before you some account of a short visit to St. Petersburg and Moscow. I may premise that about fourteen years ago, on our return from Egypt, vià Constantinople, I and my companion, Mr. Charles Darbishire, wereplaced in quarantine at a station overlooking the Black Sea. Along withus we had a Russian nobleman[1] and his tutor, who were returning from apilgrimage to Jerusalem. During the fifteen days' confinement, whilst occupying separateapartments, we frequently interchanged visits, and on such occasions themanners and condition of our respective countries became the frequentsubject of conversation. Such discussions did not terminate without receiving urgent invitationsto visit Russia, offering, at the same time, to procure for us everyfacility for seeing the cities to advantage; and also an order from thegentleman's father, [2] who was at the head of the postal department, which would command for us horses and conveyances through every part ofRussia. Since that time I have frequently contemplated visiting the north ofEurope, but, from various causes, have deferred such undertaking tillthe last summer, when, finding my fellow traveller unwilling to leavehome, I induced another individual[3] to accompany me after muchdifficulty in reconciling herself to so long an absence from attractionsusually found at home. We set off on the 17th of June, and sailed the following day fromGrimsby for St. Petersburg in the "Atlantic, " a fine screw steamer, 1, 600 tons burden, 284 feet long, and engines of 400 horse power, withthirty passengers. On setting out the weather was delightful, with a smooth sea, so that weremained on deck all day, enjoying the promenade, though it was somewhatrestricted by numerous bales of cotton. The following day proved cloudy and much colder, followed by a stiffbreeze through the night, rocking some of us without getting us tosleep. On the 20th we rejoiced to see _terra firma_, and about ten in theevening landed a passenger at Elsinore. Here the sea becomes much narrower, bringing into view more than fiftyvessels, no longer delayed by the payment of Sound dues which werecompounded for some years ago with the kingdom of Denmark. Early the following morning we anchored opposite Copenhagen, and a boatbeing sent off for provisions, enabled some of us to go ashore and walkthrough some of the principal streets and take a glance at one of theirnumerous public gardens. On resuming our course, we passed a long range of nets kept afloat bylogs of wood every thirty or forty yards; and near Goat Island weobserved a large number of planks floating by for several hours, thecargo of some unfortunate vessel. Here we saw three gulls, the onlybirds we had observed in all our passage, and no fish, not even aporpoise, which should more readily be excused as they are mostly seenin stormy weather. In the course of conversation with one of the passengers we were glad tolearn that our Russian friend was residing in one of the palaces at St. Petersburg, and also that he would be able to render us most valuableservices. We arrived at Cronstadt on the 24th, having had on the whole a pleasantvoyage, with agreeable company, but not without some feeling ofcommiseration for the poor stokers working so hard in a dusty heatedatmosphere. Cronstadt is the chief station of the Russian navy, and thefortifications are very extensive, including two circular batteries ashort distance from the shore, having three tiers and a range of guns atthe top, but so ill-constructed, we were told, as to be rendered almostuseless for want of ventilation. Here our passports were examined, and the passengers along with theirluggage were transferred to a smaller steamer to convey us up the Nevato St. Petersburg. Soon after leaving Cronstadt, on the right are seen the gilded towers ofthe palace of Peterhof, and a little further we discern a large goldenball, the dome of St. Isaac, with the glittering taper spire rising fromthe Admiralty. Approaching nearer, we see numerous domes and spires, painted blue and green, with silver and golden stars. Along the banks of the Neva are quays, constructed in the mostsubstantial manner out of large blocks of granite. Before being permitted to land there was a further inspection of ourpassports, and our luggage was conveyed to the searching house. Here wefound a commissioner from the Miss Bensons, the proprietresses of acelebrated boarding-house, to whom we had written a short time before. Having but a few books, the examination passed off very quickly, and wewere soon conveyed to their delightful establishment, beautifullysituated on the English Quay. It was well that we had written, as we found the house quite full, consisting chiefly of English travellers; everything proved so nice andcomfortable that we soon found ourselves more at home than we could haveexpected. So far I have proceeded as from a diary, but in future, though I shallconfine myself almost entirely to such objects as come under our actualnotice, I shall find it necessary in describing many particulars toquote largely from Murray and some other authorities. The weather, we were told, had been very wet and cold for a much longerperiod than usual, but had suddenly changed to brighter skies and adelightful atmosphere. The days, of course, are here much longer, butwhat surprised us most was the brilliant twilight, eclipsing every starand enabling us to read the newspaper at midnight. Our first business was to communicate by telegraph the important news ofour safe arrival; and early the following morning we received the joyfulintelligence of all being well at home. To some of you this may be considered a circumstance hardly worthrelating, but let such persons go a considerable distance from homeleaving behind them valuable treasures and their views and feelings willundergo considerable change. On enquiring about Adlerberg, my quarantine associate, we were sorry tolearn that he had set off that morning with the Emperor for Archangel, proving himself by that circumstance, as well as from what we heard inall quarters, to be no unimportant personage, second only, they said, tothe Emperor himself. St. Petersburg--so called from its founder in 1703--is situated on amarshy plain so far north as to be locked up one half of the year, and, notwithstanding such unfavourable circumstances, has become one of thehandsomest cities in Europe, containing a population of about 600, 000. The streets are spacious and well laid out, some of them two or threemiles long, and, though not often exceeding three storeys, the housesare very lofty. It has been called another Venice on account of the numerous canalscommunicating with the river Neva, which afford a ready transit to allparts of the city and at the same time greatly assist the drainage, which otherwise would prove very imperfect. The Neva is a beautiful river, about as wide as the Thames in London, but not so polluted. Above the city are numerous islands, on which areerected beautiful villas, mostly constructed of wood in a fancifulstyle, and painted various colours with gardens very tastefully laidout. Besides numerous delightful drives among these islands they aremade further accessible by small steamers. They are also connected bywooden bridges resting on boats which are removed before the winterseason sets in, being not then required and also liable to great injuryby the breaking up of the ice. But lower down there is one bridgeconstructed of iron of seven arches and 1, 050 feet long and 60 feetwide, costing a million and a quarter sterling. Besides steamers there are many other boats, some very large rudelyconstructed, bringing wood from the lake of Ladoga, mostly birch, cut inshort lengths for fuel, and others freighted with leather, hemp andvarious products from the interior. In discharging these boats with fuelthe serfs[4] make use of a sort of truck with a framework to hold thebillets, and the wheels, being not more than six or seven inches indiameter, require a narrow plank to be laid across the street a littlebelow the uneven pavement. They have also a very defective mode ofwatering the streets; fetching the water in buckets and putting it intoa larger vessel upon wheels from which they sprinkle the streets, instead of pumping up the water into a machine and distributing it as itgoes along. On account of the boggy state of the ground the buildings areconstructed on piles at an enormous expense, so that it has been said byan English resident that larger sums had been expended under ground thanabove, which I can the more readily believe after witnessing theextraordinary foundations of a new palace now in the course of erection. Most of the buildings, including palaces and churches, are built ofbrick, and covered with a cement of various colours; often out ofcondition and presenting a less substantial appearance. The pavement is generally in a bad state, consisting mostly of pebblesof every size mingled together, and all, I should say, wrong side up, insome places a yard or two without any at all. This condition of the streets, with the droshkies, a small four-wheelcarriage, holding two persons, sitting together behind the driver, orsometimes back to back, with the fore-wheels about twelve inches high, and drawn very rapidly over such a pavement, you may suppose, makes itno easy matter to keep your seat. The droshky drivers have generally a round hat, and wear long loosedresses almost reaching to their heels, with a band round their waist. They carry a tin plate between their shoulders with a number on it;never drive with blinkers, and rarely use a whip, but having a rein ineach hand, urge on their little horses at great speed over the unevenpavement without once coming down, so far as we observed. There are other carriages like our English cabs drawn by one or twohorses, but the droshky is in most general use. We did not see many equipages, most of the nobility having left thecity, and very few gentlemen on horseback save a few Cossacks or othermilitary. Passing through the streets, we were astonished at the vast number ofpigeons flying in all directions, and frequently alighting in the mostcrowded parts of the city. This bird, we were informed, is held sacred by the natives, and ofcourse would soon become very numerous if they were not diminished byforeigners and others less scrupulous, who are supposed to convey themquietly from their roosting quarters to form an important part inculinary operations. The working men go about in what we were used to call top-boots, andeven little boys have them, with the upper part variously coloured, butmostly red, a favourite colour in Russia. The serf wears a long coat reaching to the calves of his legs, with anumber of gathers fastened together at the waist by a strap, in which hetucks his gloves, his whip or his axe. His shirt of checked linen, notoften washed, and his neck entirely bare, with the lower garmentconsisting of wide linen trousers. With the use of stockings he appearstotally unacquainted, wrapping his feet in linen rags. His shoes are asort of sandal made of linden bark or leather, continuing his raggedwrapper up to his knees, binding it round with pack thread. The coveringof his head is a deep crowned hat with narrow brim. The serfs pay about ten or twelve roubles annually (about £2 sterling)to their nobles, and also a certain proportion from the women andchildren. If not able to make up the tribute they must beg, borrow orsteal to make up the deficiency. Their food consists chiefly of vegetables, and coarse fish, with blackbread made of rye, but considered very nutritious. Both sexes wear a crucifix on their breasts, suspended round their necksby a string, which is put on at their baptism and never afterwards takenoff; those of the peasants are of lead, but the better sort have them ofsilver or gold. In my several rambles over various parts of the Continent I havescarcely ever found any difficulty with a little knowledge of the Frenchlanguage in making myself understood, but here it was very different; invain we addressed many respectable persons we met with in the streetsrespecting some public buildings, and we found every droshky man quiteuncommunicative, so that directions had to be given at the hotel of ourintended route, and if we changed our driver we managed to return bypointing the way, right or left. All this might have been obviated bythe use of a few Russian words, but our time seemed too short to lookinto the vocabulary. Our first drive was past the statue of Peter the Great, near theAdmiralty, St. Isaac's Cathedral, and along the Nevskoi Prospect, theRegent Street of St. Petersburg, three miles long and very wide, havingin some parts the advantage of a wooden pavement. In this street arenumerous shops with large signboards containing some letters of anunusual form, but rendered more intelligible by drawings of some of thearticles to be sold. In the same street, on the opposite side, are also to be seen houses, orrather palaces, so large that fifty extend over an English mile. At the end of this street is situated the monastery of St. AlexanderNevskoi, one of the most celebrated in Russia, containing within itswalls towers, churches and gardens, with many paintings, and a veryremarkable monument of Alexander Nevskoi, of massive silver, which, with its ornaments, weighs 5, 000 lbs. Of pure metal. There is a library containing many valuable manuscripts, also a cemeteryof such great repute that large sums are said to be paid for permissionto repose in its holy ground. Our second drive was to the Summer Gardens, which are laid out in longavenues of fine old trees, interspersed with varied walks, flower bedsand numerous beautiful marble statues, forming a delightful retreat, butattended with an enormous expense, as many of the tender trees andshrubs, and even statues, require a careful covering through the winter. From the gardens we proceeded to the original wooden palace, or cottageof Peter the Great, situated on one of the islands. It consists of three small rooms, one his bedroom, another his receptionroom, and a third his chapel, where the pictures he worshipped arecarefully preserved. Many relics are still to be seen, a boat and sails, with an old armchair, all which are said to have been made by his ownhands. The place was crowded by his devoted admirers, more particularly thechapel, which with numerous lighted candles purchased by the visitors, was heated almost to suffocation. The whole is covered over by a brickbuilding to preserve it from the effects of the weather. We then proceeded to the Botanical Gardens, situated on another island. Here are numerous conservatories, comprising a great variety ofcamellias, heaths and ferns and several very large palm-houses, containing some very fine specimens. We then visited the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, which we foundundergoing extensive repairs. In this church are deposited the remains of Peter the Great and all hisimperial successors, the preceding Emperors having been buried atMoscow. The very great simplicity and absence of all ornament form a strikingbut most becoming contrast to the usual display in many other churches. The coffins, being placed in walls, are covered with a plain stonesarcophagus. On some the pall is embroidered in golden letters, onothers nothing but the initial. From the roof are suspended numeroustattered banners, and on one side are hung the keys of Paris and otherFrench fortresses. Hitherto we had taken advantage of the fine weather in driving about thecity, visiting the islands and the public gardens, but this favour notbeing continued we turned our attention to the palaces, of which, Murraysays, no other modern city can boast an equal number. The Winter Palace, the most splendid and largest royal residence in theworld, is 700 feet in length, three storeys high, and nearly square, andis said to have 6, 000 persons under its roof during the Emperor'sresidence in the capital. Among the extensive suite of apartments, galleries and halls filled withmarbles, precious stones, vases, and pictures may be mentioned, first, the hall of St. George, where the Emperor gives audience to foreignambassadors. It is 140 feet by 60 feet, on the splendour of which theRussians most pride themselves. The Empress's drawing-room is considered to be a perfect gem of taste. Beyond this is the Salle Blanche, or White Saloon, a very chaste andmost elegant apartment, its decorations and marble columns all in purewhite relieved only in gilding, the dimensions being nearly the same asthe hall. Then the Diamond room, containing the crown and jewels of the Imperialfamily. Here diamonds, rubies and emeralds are ranged round the room insmall cases, of such dazzling beauty that it is almost bewildering tolook at them. The crown of the Emperor is adorned with diamonds of an extraordinarysize, and the Imperial sceptre contains the largest in the world, theKohinoor excepted; it was purchased by the Empress Catherine for 450, 000roubles, or £75, 000 sterling. In addition to the splendid apartments just described there is also asmall room occupied by the late Emperor Nicholas containing a very smallhard bed on which he died, this being almost the only room he occupiedin that grand building. This room is held in great respect, andeverything remains in the same state in which he left it. His mind wasbent on other objects than mere splendour. About twenty years ago this gigantic pile of building fell a prey to theravages of fire, and in a few hours were consumed much of thosetreasures and works of art which had been collected during theprosperous reigns of Elizabeth and Catherine. Kohl, speaking of its immense extent, says: "The suites of apartmentswere a perfect labyrinth, so that even the chief of the Imperialhousehold, who had filled the office for twelve years, was not perfectlyacquainted with all its nooks and corners. " Though the crown jewels and most valuable articles were saved from theflames still the destruction of property must have been immense, spreadover a surface of such enormous extent; the principal rooms alone, nearly one hundred in number, occupied on the first floor an area of400, 000 square feet. So great was the daring exhibited by the watchmen to preserve theproperty that, to the credit of the Emperor Nicholas, it is said that heordered some officers to go and smash the large mirrors in order toprevent the soldiers and people from sacrificing themselves in makingany further attempts to save the property. In one point of view this destructive fire has proved an advantage, forthe custom of consigning to solitude those suites of rooms occupied bydeceased sovereigns had here closed so many of the finest apartmentsthat in a few more generations the reigning monarch would have beenfairly turned out by the ghosts of his predecessors. The Hermitage is connected with the Winter Palace by several coveredgalleries, and forms a sort of continuation of that vast building. Itwas erected by the Empress Catherine as a luxurious retreat. The collection of paintings occupies about forty rooms, and is ofimmense value. Three or four rooms are entirely filled with jewels and articles ofvertu, among these a superb vase of Siberian jaspar of lilac colour, andothers of malachite, with two magnificent candelabras valued at £9, 000. The ground floor with statuary. Three rooms containing more than 30, 000 specimens of engravings, and tworooms are occupied by a collection of coins and medals. The cameosamount to the number of 10, 000, including specimens of the greatestbeauty and scarcity. Besides a theatre, there is a library containing more than 120, 000volumes, 10, 000 in the Russian language. The Marble Palace, so called, is built of red granite, and is theresidence of the Grand Duke Constantine. The Taurida Palace, now in a neglected state, is famous for itsballroom, 320 feet long by 70 feet wide, and lighted up with 20, 000 waxcandles. Among other numerous palaces may be mentioned the Michaelhof, erected bythe Emperor Paul with extraordinary rapidity, there being 5, 000 menemployed daily, and in order to dry the walls more quickly large ironplates were made hot and fastened to them. Yet after the Emperor's deathit was abandoned as quite uninhabitable after a cost of eighteenmillions of roubles, or three millions sterling. The room in which the Emperor died is sealed and walled up, and thepalace is now converted into a school of engineers. The Imperial Library is one of the most extensive in Europe, containing400, 000 volumes and 15, 000 manuscripts. St. Petersburg has only about thirty churches, the four principal theKazan, St. Isaac, the Smolnoi and St. Peter and St. Paul. The first of these, Kazan, is a copy, though on a small scale, of St. Peter's at Rome, with its colonnade, and adorned with colossal statues. In the interior are fifty-six marble columns, each 52 feet in height, hewn out of a single block of marble. The walls and flooring of the same are all beautifully polished. That part which answers to our chancel, in all Greek churches is lookedupon as the Holy of Holies, shut off from the rest of the building by ascreen, called the Iconostat. This is set apart for the priests: laymenmay enter, but no woman, not even the Empress, can go into thismysterious enclosure. In this church, all its beams and posts are of massive silver, the threedoors and arches being 20 feet in height above the altar. We could not learn, says Murray, how many hundredweight of silver wereemployed, but doubtless many thousands of dozens of French and Germanspoons, and hundreds of soup tureens and tea pots must have been melteddown by the Cossacks in 1813 and 1814 as offerings to the Holy Motherof Kazan, this Madonna being held by them in peculiar veneration. The members of the Greek religion pray standing, --the interior of thechurch is always devoid of pew, bench, or chair; but in every churchthere is a place set apart for the Emperor to stand in, which is raisedabove the floor, and usually covered with a canopy. An exception has been made in favour of the Dowager Empress on accountof ill-health. This standing during a service, continuing two hours, must prove veryfatiguing, but is a sure preventive of sleeping. Behind and in front the ceremonies are performed by numerous priests, fine looking men, with long flowing beards, in robes of most costlymaterials; the genuflexions are numerous and very low, incense is muchused, and there are some good pictures, but no statuary and no organ orother instrumental music; but the chanting is peculiar and verystriking. Whilst in catholic countries the churchgoers are mostly women; in Russiawe find both sexes engaged in such duties. On entering the church a wax candle is purchased, and sinking on oneknee, bowing his head to the pavement and crossing his breastrespectively with the thumb and the two forefingers of his right hand, the worshipper proceeds to the shrine itself, he lights his candle atthe holy lamp, and sets it up in one of the numerous sockets in a largesilver stand; then, falling low on his bended knee, kisses the pavementbefore the altar. This we witnessed on another visit, carried out to amost extravagant extent. A young man, almost the only worshipperpresent, bowed down from a standing position more than sixty times, bumping his head with such force upon the marble floor as to be hearddistinctly a considerable distance--a case of insanity, you willsuppose, or likely soon to become so. Flame is considered the best spiritual representation; no interment, baptism, or any sacred ceremony is thought of without lamp or taper, greatly exceeding what takes place in the Catholic church. Even the Exchange is not without its Saint and lamp continually burning. On the Sunday we went to the grand church dedicated to St. Isaac, commenced in 1817 and only opened a fortnight before our arrival. This church, with almost the grandeur of St. Peter's at Rome, though notso favourably situated, excels in beauty both the interior and exteriorof the Madeleine in Paris. In the foundation of this wonderful structure were driven 10, 762 piles, the work of ten engines for a whole year; on these were placed twolayers of blocks of granite, carefully worked and never again to beseen, being 15 feet below the surface of the street. They serve as abase to the walls of the cathedral, of which the more important aregranite, to the level of the pavement, the remainder being constructedwith compact masonry, bed upon bed, costing £200, 000. The portico on each of the four fronts consists of twelve Corinthiancolumns, each 7 feet diameter, and 57 feet long, in one block. The dome is surrounded by 24 columns, each 42 feet in height, and isconstructed of metal, viz. , 52 tons of copper, 321 tons of brass, 524tons wrought iron, 1, 068 tons of cast iron, and 247 lbs. Of ducat gold. Three of the doors are 30 feet high and 12 feet wide, four others 17feet high and 8 wide. The interior is the form of a great cross, with the dome in the centre, the altar screen 150 feet long and 70 feet high, of white marble, encrusted with porphyry, jasper and other precious stones, and enrichedwith eight Corinthian columns of malachite and two lapis lazuli 42 feethigh, and the doors into the chancel of silver, containing scripturalexpressions 35 feet high and 14 wide, the whole costing 52 millions ofroubles, or say in round numbers, 8½ millions sterling. The day we attended proved a fête day, and of course was very muchcrowded by all ranks, from the richest noble to the humblest serf, inone general mass. There were upwards of 20 priests officiating in their gorgeous robes, performing various ceremonies amidst frequent processions, andoccasionally reading from one of their sacred books in so loud anddistinct a tone as to be heard through the immense cathedral, and atother times chanting in deep bass tones, varied by the assistance ofyoung choristers, with the sweetest voices, producing the mostdelightful harmony. During the service, which lasted 2½ hours, the cathedral was illuminatedby seven chandeliers, containing each 130 candles, and other smallerones, all of silver; in addition to these were many votive candlespurchased by various worshippers and deposited in sockets of a silverframe work placed near the altar, amounting altogether to not fewer than1, 500 lights. St. Petersburg can boast of several large monuments, the Ramanzoferected to the field-marshal of that name, and Suwaroff, one of theirmost distinguished heroes; also the column of Alexander, a single shaftof red granite, upwards of 80 feet in height. The base and pedestal iscomposed of one enormous block, above 25 feet square, and to secure thebase there were no fewer than six successive rows of piles, the shaft ofthe column alone weighing nearly 400 tons. On the pedestal is the following short and well-chosen inscription: "To Alexander the Great; Grateful Russia. " But the most wonderful of all is the well-known equestrian statue ofPeter the Great, representing the Emperor riding up a rock and subduinga serpent. The huge block of granite which forms the pedestal, and weighs 1, 500tons, was brought from Lacte, a village four miles from St. Petersburg, at a cost of 70, 000 roubles, or £11, 000 sterling. It was originally 45feet long, 30 feet high, and 25 feet in width, but broke into twopieces, which were subsequently patched together, the whole costamounting to 424, 610 roubles, or upwards of £70, 000. After surveying the palaces and public buildings in the city, we turnedour attention to those in the environs, and proceeded in a steamer toPeterhof, about fifteen miles down the river. Nothing can be finer than the situation of this palace, commanding anextensive view of the Neva from Cronstadt to St. Petersburg, withbeautiful waterworks, considered little inferior to those at Versailles, with a magnificent jet called the Sampson, a colossal bronze figure, tearing open the jaws of a lion, whence rushes the water from a heightof 80 feet. Besides numerous other jets sending the water in all directions, thereis a broad flight of steps, and on each side a range of marble slabs tothe top of the hill, over which the water pours down, so far apart, asto allow on fête nights, variegated lamps to be arranged behind thewater, forming the most beautiful cascade. Passing through the palace, containing numerous pictures, marbles andvases that we had not time to inspect, we came to the gardens, kept inthe strictest order. In the varied walks and borders of flowers arenumerous seats to accommodate a large assemblage of people, and twobands of music playing alternately. Descending from the palace to the seashore, the garden is laid out interraces, and adorned with fountains, waterfalls, and statuary. Here arethe oak and lime trees, planted by Peter himself, and at the end of oneof the walks is situated Monplaisir, a low Dutch-built summer house, where the Great Peter breathed his last, and his bed remains untouchedsince his death, but is now fast crumbling to decay. Another day we set off by railway to Tzarskoe Selo, a very extensiveroyal residence, and favourite resort of the Imperial family. At the entrance to the grounds of the palace are two small towers, covered with Egyptian figures. The façade of the palace is 1, 200 feet in length. Originally everystatue, pedestal and capital of the numerous columns, the vases, carvingand other ornaments in front were covered with gold leaf, costing morethan a million of ducats. The rooms in this palace, like all others, are richly decorated withsimple white and gold, or hung with rich silks. One very elegant room, called the lapis lazuli, has strips of this stone inlaid in the walls, and the floor of this apartment is of ebony, inlaid with large flowersof mother of pearl, forming one of the most splendid contrasts possible. But the wonder of this palace is the famous amber room, the walls ofwhich are literally panelled with this material in various designs. The state apartments are, as usual, lavishly covered with gold, one partoccupied by a collection of the most splendid China vases, and othercostly articles. Here are pointed out the simple rooms occupied by the late EmperorAlexander I, whom all seem to remember with great affection. His apartments have been kept exactly as he left them when he departedfor Tagannag. This account of the interior, I should observe, is taken from the guidebook, as we could not obtain admission, being unfortunately on the wrongday, perhaps the only time we regretted not having with us theall-important order from Prince Adlerberg. Not gaining admission left usmore time to spend in the grounds, which extend over eighteen miles incircumference. The gardens are certainly kept in the very highest order, the trees andflowers are watched and inspected with the greatest minuteness. An oldinvalid soldier commands his 500 or 600 men as gardeners and overseers. Every leaf that falls in pond or canal is carefully fished up. They trimand polish the trees and paths in the gardens to the greatest nicety, and the grass borders are kept in the finest condition. The cost of all this polishing and extreme attention is above 100, 000roubles yearly. Very odd caprices are exhibited in the decoration of the grounds, several fanciful towers, a Dutch and Swiss cottage, a Gothic building, amarble bridge with Corinthian columns, bronze and other statues, andnumerous monuments raised by Alexander to his companions in arms, intermingled with hermitages, artificial ruins, Roman tombs, grottoesand waterfalls. Like almost all other royal buildings in Russia, Tzarskoe owes itsorigin to Peter the Great. He erected the first house here, and planted the avenues of plane treeswith his own hand. We had a great desire to drive about the grounds, and made severalattempts with the droshky drivers, but could not make ourselvesunderstood either with regard to the terms or the route we should take. At length we succeeded in getting a carriage to Pavlofsky, anotherimperial residence, by mentioning the name and offering a sum which wefound afterwards was much more than the distance justified. The palaceis not particularly distinguished, and the gardens are resorted to as asort of Vauxhall, with bands of music and other similar entertainments. Among other public buildings at St. Petersburg should be mentioned theExchange. A stately flight of steps leads to this great hall, which is lightedfrom above; on both sides are spaces in the form of arcades. In one ofthe first stands an altar with a lamp constantly burning for the benefitof the pious Russian merchants, who always bow to the altar andsometimes prostrate themselves to implore the favour of some favouritesaint to prosper their undertakings. Here I may mention the several sorts of money circulating in thiscountry. One hundred kopecks make a rouble, about 3s. 4d. English money, always used as the basis in commercial transactions; a few silver coins, 25, 30, 50, and a few 100 kopecks, but of the last these generallyappear in notes of 1, 3, 5, 10, and 20 roubles; some coppers, ¼ to 3kopecks. The gold coins are the imperial, half imperial, and one between, butthese we did not see, being, we suppose, as Cobbett used to say, unwilling to associate with dirty ragged companions. They have a curious mode of reckoning by means of a frame with a numberof parallel wires, on which are strung ten black balls and ten whiteballs, or sometimes a greater number, the lowest being taken as units, the next as tens, and the third as hundreds, &c. Among the public buildings we also observed several towers or firesignals--high buildings, from which with rods of iron in variousdirections are given the earliest intimation of fire, which iscommunicated by a flag in the day or lamps in the night. These towerswere formerly more necessary when a large part of the city was built ofwood. We should not omit to mention an immense Bazaar, of 400 yards frontageand nearly the same backward, containing almost every article for sale. After staying a week at St. Petersburg we set off to Moscow by railway, starting at 12 o'clock at noon. After getting our tickets, paying aboutthe same as in this country, with a little extra for luggage, we passedinto a large waiting room, and there remained till the doors were openedupon the platform about five minutes before setting off. Many of the travellers, particularly ladies, were seen carrying largepillows or cushions to repose upon, thereby filling the carriages tosuffocation, and this in July. The carriages are much like ours in appearance, but instead of threethere are nine carriages joined together, with a passage down thecentre, the same as in America. The first class has a small compartment for one of the conductors orguards, then a saloon, with a sofa on each side, and the remainder, twoseats on one side and one on the other, which, with the passage, requirea wider gauge, something like the Great Western. The second class is much the same, with rather less upholstering; andthe third without cushions. The rail appeared strong and very substantially laid, and is carried ina straight level line for miles together through forests of greatextent. At each station a person goes round striking the wheels andaxles to see that all is sound. The engines are supplied with wood fuel, and seemed powerful, dragging us along in some parts with greatrapidity. The forest trees, consisting chiefly of pine, birch, and mountain ash, with a few oaks and beech, did not appear so large as I expected, norwas our monotonous course enlivened by the sight of an occasional bearor eagle, being, we suppose, gone from home. Along some parts of theline we observed the corduroy road (trees laid close together), andgates formed of long poles counterpoised by a thicker part at the otherend. There are thirty-three stations built upon one plan, spacious andconvenient, all on a level with the entrances to the carriages; two orthree of these are well supplied with eatables and drinkables, whichwere by no means neglected; also a great consumption of tea, a verygeneral beverage in Russia, served in glass tumblers with lemon juiceinstead of cream, which we did not consider a good substitute; thoughaccompanied with good bread and butter, proved to us far more acceptablethan many other dishes. Smoking, everywhere so common, is here indulged to the greatest excess, and not confined to one sex, several ladies sporting their cigarettes. If not many passengers, a lady is usually accommodated with a doubleseat. I have mentioned the prevailing habit of bowing to the saints. Thisoccurred on our journey, and on looking back, I found we had just passeda church at a considerable distance. We arrived at Moscow at eight o'clock the following morning, havingperformed the journey, 400 miles, in twenty hours, stopping at thevarious stations about 1½ hours, this journey formerly requiring twelveto fifteen days. It was raining very hard, but by the kindness of a gentleman we werehelped to a cab, and after giving the necessary directions, we proceededto the hotel which had been recommended to us, but found it full. With the second hotel on our list we were more successful. After breakfast, the rain continuing, my secretary, [5] engaged herselfwriting home, whilst I proceeded to present our letters of introduction. One of these friends helped us to a guide, and also engaged a carriageto facilitate our future movements. Moscow has a population of about 350, 000, with innumerable churches, towers, gilded spires and domes. The roofs of the houses are constructedof sheet iron, and painted white, red and green, all of them glitteringin the sun, and presenting a truly splendid appearance. It was built about 700 years ago, and remained the metropolis of Russiatill the beginning of the last century. The exterior wall of the city is upwards of twenty English miles inextent and presents a striking contrast to St. Petersburg. In some streets we come to a large palace and then to a wretched hovel. Another time we see a row of little cottages of one storey standing nextto a stately mansion, and in other places little streets as in a countrytown. In the centre of this vast collection of buildings is the Kremlin, situated on a hill nearly two miles in circumference; it is surroundedby high walls of stone and brick, with several towers and gates, themost important of which is the gate of the Redeemer. Over the arch ofwhich is a picture of the Saviour, with a lamp constantly burning. The passage through the tower is about twenty paces long and every one, be he what he may, Mahommedan, Heathen or Christian, must take off hishat and keep it off till he has passed through to the other side. It isa truly singular sight to watch the carriages coming along at full speedslackening their pace as they approach the sacred gate, while the lordand lackey cross themselves reverently and drive through hat in hand. The first time, forgetting to uncover, I was reminded by a sentinel atsome distance, and also my companion to put down her parasol. Thegreatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter through the gate. Within the Kremlin are contained all the most interesting andhistorically important buildings of Moscow, the holiest churches, withthe tombs of the ancient Tzars, Patriarchs and Metropolitans, theremains of the ancient palace of the Tzars, the new one of the lateEmperor, the arsenal, the senate house and architectural memorials ofevery period of Russian history, for every Russian monarch has held ithis duty to adorn the Kremlin with some monument. In the new palace erected by the Emperor Alexander after the greatconflagration of 1812, the most remarkable apartment is that of theEmperors containing a bed with a straw mattress, half a dozenleather-covered chairs, and a small looking-glass, making up the wholeof the furniture. The little palace erected by the Emperor Nicholas has some valuablepaintings and a good library. Here is also another bedroom more wonderful than that just described. The former Emperor slept on straw covered with leather, but it wasloosely stuffed; the mattress of the Emperor Nicholas, on which he layis stuffed so that a shutter in its absence would prove no greatinconvenience. It is difficult to say how many churches there are in Moscow, theseveral accounts differ so widely. Some speak of 1, 500, others 500; theformer number must include public and private chapels, and those inconvents, but the holiest of them all are three in the Kremlin. Thoughnot extensive, they are crowded with pictures and shrines, the heavypillars that support the fine cupolas are covered with gold from top tobottom, and the walls the same with large fresco paintings, darkened byage. Here is Mount Sinai, and a golden Moses of pure gold, with a goldentable of the law, and also a golden coffer to contain the Host, said toweigh 120, 000 ducats. A Bible, the gift of the mother of Peter theGreat, the cover so laden with gold and jewels that it requires two mento carry it into the church; it is said to weigh 120 lbs. The emeraldson the cover are an inch long, and the whole binding cost 1, 200, 000roubles, or £200, 000 sterling. In the house of the Holy Synod are thirty silver vessels containing theholy oil used in baptising all the children in Russia. It is made of thefinest Florence oil, mingled with a number of essences, about three orfour gallons serving all Russia for one and a half or two years. Here one of our fellow travellers, impelled by that curiosity common tothe sex, dipped her finger into one of the holy jars and forthwithanointed herself, bidding me to do the same; and, thus tempted, Ifollowed her example and also tried its efficacy upon my other half, without finding, I must confess, any material change. I have sincethought that such antics, though not done in derision, might have provedserious and led to our detention and perhaps final removal to a distantpart of the empire. In the church of St. Michael the Archangel are the tombs of the Russiansovereigns, which are raised sepulchres, mostly of brick, in the shapeof a coffin and about two feet high. In addition to the churches and palaces there is in the Kremlin animmense pile of buildings called the Senate. In the upper storey are collected and arranged the crowns of the earlyTzars, also a throne covered with crimson velvet and blazing withdiamonds. The two long galleries which open out of this room containinnumerable treasures, the captured crowns of the various countries nowforming provinces of this vast empire, as well as those of the MoscoviteTzars, one containing 881 diamonds, another 847, and that of Catherine, the first widow of Peter the Great, 2, 536 fine diamonds, to which theEmpress added a ruby of enormous size. In addition to these crowns areseveral rich diadems similarly ornamented. Many thrones are to be seen in these rooms, one adorned with 2, 760turquoises and other precious stones--that of Michael Romanoff, thefirst of the reigning families, is enriched with 8, 824 diamonds, and thethrone of Alexis contains 876 diamonds and 1, 220 jewels and many pearls. Besides these numerous thrones, there are saddles, bridles, and reinsand saddle cloths covered most lavishly with diamonds, amethysts andlarge turquoises--a large boss, adorning the horse's chest, in thecentre of which is an immense diamond, and round this a circle of pinktopazes, enclosed in pearls, and these again by diamonds, the wholeencircled by a broad gold band. But perhaps the greatest curiosity is a pair of old wooden chairs, usedat the coronation of the Emperors. Though made of coarse wood they aresaid to contain 1, 000 precious stones. The whole extent of one wall is occupied by an array of boots, from theiron jack boots of Peter to the delicate beaver skin of the EmperorAlexander. On the other side are suspended some Damascus scimitars, and verycurious Chinese sabres. The Arsenal contains nearly 900 cannon, weighing about 400 tons, a greatnumber French, taken during the disastrous retreat in 1812. Among allthese warlike trophies you will be proud to learn very few are English. Close to the tower of Ivan Veliki is placed on a massive pedestal themighty bell. It was cast by the command of the Empress Ann in 1730, andbears her figure in flowing robes on its surface, beneath which is adeep border of flowers. It is said the tower on which it was originallyhung was burnt in 1737, and its fall buried the enormous mass deep inthe earth, and broke a huge fragment from it. In the spring of 1837, exactly a century after it fell, the EmperorNicholas caused it to be removed and placed on its present pedestal, with the broken fragment beside it. The fragment is about 6 feet highand 3 feet thick. The height of the whole bell is 21 feet 3 inches and 25 feet 5 inches indiameter, and weighs 443, 722 lbs. , or more than 153 tons, and issupposed to have cost £350, 000, as in addition to the copper, manypersons, during the process of casting, threw large quantities of goldand silver into each of the four furnaces. The tower of John the Great is more than 200 feet high, surmounted by agilded dome, of which there are about 60 in the Kremlin. In the first storey hangs a bell, which but for its mightier neighbourbelow would appear stupendous, being 60 tons. To ring it is impossible; even to toll it requires the united strengthof three men pulling with separate ropes the vast clapper; above thisare 40 or 50 more. The cathedral of St. Basil, situated outside the Kremlin, is a trulygrotesque building, having no less than 20 towers and domes, all ofdifferent shapes and sizes, and painted in every possible colour. Someare crowned with a network of green over a surface of yellow; anotherdome is bright red, with broad white stripes, and a third is gilded. It is said to be a whim of the Tzar Ivan the Terrible to see how manydistinct chapels could be erected under one roof in a given space ofground, so that services could be performed at one time withoutinterrupting each other. It is further related that the Tzar was so delighted with the architectthat when the edifice was finished he sent for him, pronounced a higheulogium on his work, and then ordered his eyes to be put out so that hecould never build such another. The chapel of the Iberian Mother of God is situated in an archway; andat the further end is the saint herself in a kind of sanctuary. Her complexion, like most of the Russian saints, is a dark brown, not tosay black. Round her head is a net of pearls, on one shoulder a large jewel isfastened, and another of equal brilliancy rests on her brow, abovewhich, the whole being lighted up by thirteen silver lamps, glitters asplendid crown. Pass whenever he pleases, the traveller will find the chapel beset byworshippers. Her hand and the foot of the child are covered with dirt from theabundant kissing, and have almost disappeared. None ever pass, however urgent their business, without bowing andcrossing themselves; the greater part actually enter, kneel devoutlybefore the Mother, and pray with fervent sighs. Fashionable ladies leavetheir equipages and prostrate themselves in the dust along with themeanest beggars. It is frequently visited by the Tzars, and it is said that Alexander theFirst never omitted to do so, and more than once in the middle of thenight he wakened the monks that he might perform his devotions. In addition to all these places of worship, there is an immensecathedral dedicated to Jesus, erected on rising ground a little out ofthe city. It has taken 21 years in building, and will require as many more tocomplete it; the interior presenting only a forest of props placed inall directions. The dome is very large, resembling that of St. Isaac, and equallysplendidly gilt. Besides the churches, there are numerous convents and monasteries. Twoof the principal we visited, and found them to consist of severalchurches, surrounded by a high wall, with many towers and a few piecesof ordnance, having all the appearance of a fortress. As usual, the churches were greatly ornamented with pictures andgilding, but the most attractive part of the Russian service is thesinging, particularly at the Vespers, when the boys taking the sopranoparts, accompanied by some most extraordinary deep bass tones of themen, swelling and filling the entire cathedral; all this, withoccasional recitations from their sacred books, without any knowledge oftheir contents, excited in us the most serious and delightfulsensations. There were about a dozen priests engaged in the variousceremonies, and the service was continued nearly three hours for thebenefit of five or six worshippers. In this country are two immense foundling hospitals. The one we visitedat Moscow is said to receive annually upwards of 25, 000 children. The upper part of this immense building is appropriated to the infantsand nurses, of each of which there are always 600, besides about 5, 000sent out to nurse in the adjoining villages. They were all in uniform--dark cotton gowns and white aprons. All bowedas we went down the line. The next suite of rooms was occupied bychildren from four to seven years of age. The elder ones were in theschoolrooms. Having seen various parts of the establishment, we were shown into theoffice where the infants are first received. The books were kept inexcellent order, and the number of clerks proved that there was a gooddeal of business to be done. When a child is brought the first question is, is it baptized? If not, the chaplain is called, and the child is taken into an adjoining room, where there is a small oratory and font. It is then taken back to theofficer, and his name and number, with date of admission, entered in thebooks. A corresponding ticket was tied round its neck, and a duplicategiven to the woman who had brought him. By the presentation of thisticket the child might be claimed at any future time. It is then carriedinto another room, well washed, dressed in his little uniform, andfetched by a nurse from the upper storey. Though called a foundling hospital, it is in reality a generalreceptacle for all children, who are received up to a certain age, without exception, it being left entirely to the option of the parent tostate their names and condition, and to contribute or not, to the futuresupport of the child. Parents paying £4 or £5 have the right to see that their child isbrought up in the house and not sent out to nurse. If a boy, and left by his parent without any deposit, he is brought upfor the army as a common soldier, but if 250 roubles or £40 sterling beleft with him, he will become an officer. All who show ability becomeengineers or are sent to the University. The girls, according to their taste and ability, are instructed inpainting or music, and if intended for governesses are taught German orFrench. The majority of girls, after receiving a common and usefuleducation, are employed in manual labour, and all, without distinctionof age or sex, can return to the hospital should they fall into distressin after life. The annual expenses of the establishment amount, it is said, to nearly amillion sterling. The policy, and certainly the moral consequences of keeping up such aninstitution are more than doubtful. There are two theatres, one very large, containing a suite of immenserooms, used for masked balls and similar entertainments, but is onlyopen during the winter season; the other is chiefly carried on by Frenchperformers, and was well filled on the evening we attended. The great Riding School is one of the wonders of Moscow, being 560 feetlong and 158 feet broad and 42 feet in height; supposed to be thelargest room in the world unsupported by pillars or props of any kind. This vast enclosure gives ample room for two regiments of cavalry to gothrough all their manoeuvres unobstructed by stormy weather, beingheated by upwards of twenty stoves. The Bazaar is also an immense pile of building, three storeys high, comprising 5, 228 shops, connected by an endless number of passages andsteps. In these courts and galleries there is a continual fairthroughout the year, attended by traders from every part of Europe, Siberia, China, and Tartary, numbering upwards of 1, 000 merchants, alleager and very importunate to do business. In the same neighbourhood are many streets of shops, arranged in masses, perhaps thirty shops for paper, another range for spices, a third forornamental articles, and a fourth for pictures and saints. Of this last article, and the numerous vessels, lamps, candlesticks, crosses, and amulets used in the celebration of the Mass, there is avast demand in the holy city, there being scarcely a house or any roomwithout a favourite saint. The population at Moscow use at least three times as many votive tapersin honour of their saints as the inhabitants of St. Petersburg, and innumerous churches many a ton of wax is said to be used for piouspurposes. Wax lights are a great trade, and occupy much space. Great numbers of pigeons nestling under the eaves of the shops are fedby the owners with the sacred feeling that they are emblems of the HolyGhost. No idea can be given of the noise and pertinacity of the traders callingto you, and even pulling you by the sleeve; and in the midst of all thisbustle there is an ample supply of edibles undergoing various culinaryoperations; along with fish and other sorts of meat, eaten with blackbread made of rye; they have various fancy cakes, and in some placeslarge dishes of soup, with a number of wooden spoons for each to helphimself. Besides these, there are second-hand markets, dealers in old clothes, books, and pictures, and others with bundles of ribbons round theirbodies or a pile of hats one upon another making known such dealer to aconsiderable distance. These densely-crowded districts form a striking contrast to other partsof the city, where scarcely a person is to be seen, and it should befurther mentioned, to their credit, that we only observed onealtercation, and another person in a state of intoxication, being thefirst disorderlies we had seen since entering the country. The Sundays here, as in most Catholic countries, are spent as fête daysor holidays, and having heard much of the singing gypsies, we proceededone evening to Ratge public gardens, about a mile out of the city, andfound a large assembly of persons promenading the grounds, with twobands of music playing alternately. About eight o'clock we observed a general move towards a pavilion, brilliantly lighted with a great number of variegated lamps, and in ashort time appeared seventeen ladies and ten gentlemen, all evidently ofthis peculiar tribe. The singing of solos, duets, and occasionally a full chorus, wassingularly wild, and strikingly delightful. So eminent have they beenconsidered, that it is related of Catalini, that after one of theperformers had finished, she tore off a cashmere shawl which had beenpresented to her by the Pope, and embracing the gypsy, insisted on heraccepting the splendid gift, intended for the matchless songster. The evening amusements closed with the siege of Canton, exhibiting sucha display of fireworks, cannonading, and destruction of buildings andboats as I had never seen before. The boulevards are nicely laid out with broad walks, with occasionalseats, and planted on each side with trees and shrubs. Near to them isthe flower garden, which consists of numerous small gardens, containinghuts of painted wood filled with a variety of flowers and shrubs, mostlyof a common sort, and some cherry and peach trees planted in pots. In this country fruit is scarce, and of course dear, so different to thesouth of Europe, an important circumstance to the teetotaller. We also visited the Moscow Hotel--not a coffee house, coffee beinglittle used--but one of the largest tea houses in the city, wheretraders of all ranks assemble to settle their various bargains withcopious libations of tea, which they drink out of large glass goblets. I have not the dimensions of this establishment, but perhaps some ideaof its size may be formed by the daily consumption of 14lbs. Of tea, requiring about six tons of water. The waiters are all dressed in whitejackets, pantaloons, and aprons. Another day we took a drive to one of the cemeteries--of great extent, but not containing any remarkable monuments. Here we visited Peterskoi, another palace, more comfortable, being ofmoderate extent and less decorated. The chief interest attached to this chateau is that refugees, whenMoscow was in flames, fled to it for safety, and an apartment is shownwhere by the light of the flaming city Napoleon dictated the dispatchconveying the sad intelligence to France. A little further on is the racecourse, which to our great surprise wefound attended by a concourse of people, and the riders mounted justready to set off. After witnessing two heats, displaying noextraordinary speed, we left the ground. This sort of sport, we weretold, is not much encouraged by the Russians, nor should we supposethere is much gambling, when a bet of £50 by Sir Robt. Peel occasionedthe greatest surprise. The following afternoon we set off to Sparrow Hill, and partook of sometea under a small tent commanding a splendid view of Moscow, and said tobe the spot whence Napoleon had his first glance of this wonderful city. Some parts of the road were exceedingly bad, very deep ruts, remindingme of some of the mud turnpikes in America. Whilst the horse was restingour guide partook of some quas, the common drink of the country, whichwe found to be a sort of weak muddy beer, rather acid. A little further on the way we heard a shepherd amusing himself and hisflock by playing on the green willow. We visited the fish market, containing a great variety of fish, many ofthem all alive in large tanks of water, and others carefully preservedin blocks of ice. On revisiting the Kremlin for the last time, we were fortunate inwitnessing an extraordinary procession, more than 200 priests in theirvaried gorgeous robes, bearing canopies, holy standards, and otherinsignia, amidst the jingling of scores of bells, which only ceasedafter they had all entered the cathedral. Before quitting this wonderful city I took a parting glance from theterrace on the roof of our hotel, whence I counted more than 250 domesand spires, many of them gilt, and others, with the roofs of many of thehouses beautifully coloured, forming a truly splendid panorama. On our return at 12 o'clock noon, the same hour we left for St. Petersburg; we took two second-class tickets, and found ourselves morecomfortable than in the saloon of the first class, arriving verypunctually at 8 o'clock the following morning. The same day we renewed our visit to St. Isaac's Cathedral, which wefound surrounded by a numerous concourse of people, with a militaryguard stationed at the chief entrance, and a splendid carpet coveringthe steps leading to the cathedral. We hastened through one of the side doors, and secured a good positionon the steps near to the altar, whence we had a fine view of theprocession of the numerous priests in most gorgeous dresses, bearing acanopy over the Metropolitan and swinging incense from side to side, amidst the most beautiful chanting, sometimes in deep bass tones, followed by youthful choristers in the most delightful gentle strains, swelling forth into a grand chorus, and filling the centre of this vastcathedral. When the music had ceased, and the priests had retired behind the altar, we had a most energetic sermon, which not being able to understand, leftus time to survey once more the interior of this most magnificentedifice. After the service was ended one of our friends from the hotel, a veryintelligent lady from the Channel Islands, went up to two ladiesstanding near us, to make enquiry about certain parts of the ceremony, when after some explanation, they kindly invited us to call upon them inthe evening, and bring along with us two other of our Englishtravellers. On showing their card to Miss Benson, she informed us the ladies werepersons of high rank, the daughters of a distinguished general, butknown to be greatly attached to the English. Upon our calling in the evening we found the two ladies not returnedfrom Court, but another sister received us most graciously, and after along conversation, chiefly on the emancipation of the Serfs, which theydid not approve of, having about 2, 000 of them on their own estates, butat the same time giving the Emperor credit for the best intentions. Before leaving we were asked by the particular desire of the absentladies to renew our visit the following evening, which we regretted notbeing able to do, having to make arrangements for our return home. The manufactures at St. Petersburg are numerous, and some of them veryextensive in tapestry, porcelain, glass, carpet, paper and cotton, allunder the patronage of the State, but chiefly owned or managed byforeigners. One of the cotton factories we visited, situated at Octi, about threemiles up the river Neva, is a good-sized mill, worked by four engines of250 and 260 horse power, spinning yarn about forty or fifty hanks, andemploying 700 or 800 hands, chiefly serfs, from the neighbouringvillages, with managers, mostly English, occupying cottages surroundingthe establishment. The proprietors, De Jerseys, well known in Lancashire, have otherconcerns in Russia, and are now erecting very large works in Finland forthe purpose of spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and printing. At the Misses Bensons there were three English gentlemen, a CaptainGlascott and two others, who had been engaged several years in anextensive survey through Russia and a part of Turkey. They kindlyexhibited their plans, beautifully drawn upon a large scale. Before leaving St. Petersburg you have to give two or three days'notice, so that your name may appear in the Gazette, and thereby ensurethe due discharge of claims upon you. You are also furnished with a newpassport, instead of viséing the one you brought with you, therebysupplying a few extra fees to the officials, which I consider to be thechief object in keeping up this abominable system. We left St. Petersburg in a small steamer, and embarked at Cronstadt inthe "Vladimer, " a Russian steamer, very beautifully fitted up, with twocabins on deck, one for the captain and the other for the use of thepassengers; the bulwarks, rather too high, and so obstruct the view, butat the same time protective in foul weather. The accommodation was verygood, and the supply of provisions most ample, but not all suited to theEnglish palate. In the evening we had a glorious sunset, and the following day passed alighthouse built upon a rock jutting out of the sea; then Reval, situated on a high coast, and in three days arrived at Stettin, havinghad a most enjoyable passage. Among the passengers was a young Russian count, an officer in the army, and, though only 27, had been in several severe engagements withoutreceiving a single wound. He was a most intelligent young man, wellacquainted with the history of most of the countries in Europe, and freein his remarks upon the faults of his own, so much so that I did notfail to remind him of Siberia. Approaching the Prussian coast, I observed the first star since enteringthe Baltic. A few miles before landing we were boarded by a number of custom houseofficers, a very good arrangement, saving much time and inconvenience. The search was in no way strict after declaring that we had no tea orleather. Having to wait three or four hours for the train to Berlin, we walkedabout the town, viewed a very remarkable statue of Frederick the Great, and also entered an old church containing a very ancient organ andpulpit wonderfully ornamented. The railway carriages, like most others on the Continent, greatly excelours; the 1st class have three spacious seats, the 2nd two double seats, and the 3rd much like our 2nd. It is a good line, and I should thinkmade at a moderate cost, there being few cuttings or embankments, andnot many bridges; the rails appeared to be about seven yards long. Onboth sides we observed extensive fields of grain, and many women amongthe reapers. The city of Berlin is situated on a level sandy plain, and has many widestreets and numerous public buildings, boulevards and other delightfulwalks. The king's palace, though very extensive, has a shabby appearance. The state apartments are decorated with good paintings, tapestry, andlarge chandeliers of solid silver; and there is a beautiful chapel, withthe floor ornamented with various marbles; also a library containing 500Bibles in different languages and editions. There is a most noble equestrian statue of Frederick the Great. The Arsenal, a noble structure, containing arms arranged in excellentorder for 200, 000 men, probably like our guns at the Tower, moreornamental than efficient; also the rich accoutrements of the horse onwhich Frederick the 1st rode when he made his public entry, all theornaments being of gold adorned with brilliants. The Museum is very extensive, all the articles beautifully arranged. In the Hall of Arts is a very large ale-cup belonging to Luther showingthat he was no teetotaller. Amidst the numerous fine streets in this city should be mentioned theUnter den Linden. On looking across from our hotel we observed it laidout in the following manner: First, a footpath of flags, then a pavementof large square sets, trees (acacias and other sorts); then a pavementof small pebbles, trees; a broad gravel walk, trees, small pebbles, trees; a pavement of large sets; and, last, a range of flags. The streetis 60 yards wide, and so full of trees as almost to obscure the housesopposite, and looking down about one and a half miles, presented a veryextraordinary appearance. But the great defect in this beautiful city is the want of propersewerage. In some of the principal streets the water is suffered to liein open drains on each side of the street, in a most stagnant condition. We went by railway to Potsdam, and after walking through numerouspalaces, we visited Babelsberg Castle, the residence of the PrinceFrederick William. Its approach is along a fine gravel road, through a beautiful plantationof various trees and shrubs, gradually rising to a considerableeminence, so as to command a very extensive view of the most beautifulscenery all around. This charming chateau, of very moderate extent, is surrounded byterraces and gardens, containing the choicest shrubs and flowers, andinterspersed with fountains and statuary truly delightful. All the rooms, which are fitted up in a simple style, without any of theusual costly decorations, were thrown open to the public excepting themore private apartments and the one then occupied by its regal owner. We left it deeply impressed with the real comfort of such a dwelling, sovastly superior to all the magnificent display we had so latelywitnessed. At Charlottenhof there is a grand palace, containing an immense room, with the ceiling and walls entirely covered with shells of everyvariety, and forming the most curious figures. And at Charlottenberg, about two miles from Berlin, there is anotherpalace with a beautiful garden, orangery, and the choicest flowers; butthe most attractive object here is the mausoleum, a beautiful structure, containing two most remarkable statues of the late King and Queen, onwhich the light is transmitted through richly stained windows, producinga very solemn and imposing effect, not excelled by the tomb of Napoleonrecently erected at Paris, or that of Marie Louise and their son atVienna. From Berlin we proceeded to Hamburg, which on my former visit hadsuffered from an extensive conflagration. All that part of the city hasbeen since rebuilt, and is now covered with streets of warehouses on amost magnificent scale. There is also a very fine range of buildings along the Aster, a finesheet of water connected with the Elbe, containing great quantities offish and numerous swans floating on its surface. There is also a very large Exchange, very numerously attended at highchange time, presenting a very extraordinary spectacle to those in thegallery above, and leading some of us to wonder how many falsestatements were mingled in the sounds then produced. We took a drive round the city, and on returning through some parts ofthe old town we found the streets so narrow and dirty that we thoughtthe fire had hardly gone far enough. As we approached nearer home our desire to arrive, like falling bodies, increased in intensity, and we engaged the first steamer to Hull. It proved to be the "Transit, " very improperly named, being one of theslowest on that station. We found it very small and the deck entirelycovered with hampers of cherries and cucumbers, and the interioraccommodation little better. This, with unfavourable weather, made the three and a half days' sailappear very long and disagreeable, but at the same time rendered doublydear, home, sweet home. We completed the excursion in little over five weeks, and consideredourselves very amply repaid for all the trouble and expense, and do nothesitate to recommend the same trip to all persons having the threeimportant requisites--means, time and inclination. FOOTNOTES: [1] Count Alexander Adlerberg. [2] Count Vladimer Adlerberg, Minister of the Imperial Household andpersonal friend of the Tsar. [3] Mrs. Heywood. [4] Serfdom was abolished in 1861. [5] Mrs. Heywood.