[Transcriber's note: This document contains several illustrations ofletters and posters. Where possible, the text on these illustrationshas been included in the description of the illustration. ]

[Illustration: His Majesty, Albert, King of the Belgians_Photograph by Boute, Brussels_]

 A JOURNAL FROM OUR LEGATION IN BELGIUM

 BY HUGH GIBSON

 SECRETARY OF THE AMERICAN LEGATION IN BRUSSELS

 ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

 NEW YORK GROSSET & DUNLAP PUBLISHERS

 _Copyright, 1917, by_ DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY

 _All rights reserved, including that of translation into foreign languages, including the Scandinavian. _

 TO MY MOTHER

 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

His Majesty, Albert, King of the Belgians _Front_

 FACING PAGEFacsimile of the first page of the German ultimatum to Belgium (_in the text_) 16

Pass issued by the Belgian military authorities to enable Mr. Gibson to enter the German Legation at Brussels 16

Maître Gaston de Leval, legal adviser to the American Legation in Brussels 17

Her Majesty, Elizabeth, Queen of the Belgians 32

Mr. Brand Whitlock, American Minister to Belgium 33

German supply train entering Brussels 96

German infantry entering Brussels 97

German officers and soldiers were always ready to oblige by posing for the camera 112

"Mit Gott für Kaiser und Reich" 112

Count Guy d'Oultremont 113

From left to right: Colonel DuCane, Captain Ferguson and Colonel Fairholme 113

Pass issued by General von Jarotzky (_in text_) 116

Letter signed by Burgomaster Max requesting the Belgian authorities to allow Mr. Gibson to pass (_in text_) 128

Boy Scouts at Belgian headquarters 140

Reading from left to right: a Belgian Staff Officer, Colonel Fairholme, Colonel DuCane and Captain Ferguson 140

List of the civilians killed by the Germans at Tamines on August 20, 1914 141

Entrance to the Rue de Diest, Louvain 156

The dead and the living. A Belgian civilian and a German soldier 157

Pass issued by Field-Marshal von der Goltz (_in text_) 200

A street in Louvain 202

Fixing on the white Flag for the dash between the lines 202

Refugees from the villages near the Antwerp forts 203

Arrival in Antwerp of refugees from Malines 203

At Malines--a good background for a photograph to send home to Germany 218

His Eminence, Cardinal Mercier 219

Fire at Namur during the bombardment 254

Effect of big German shell on Fort of Waehlem 255

Outside view of the Fort of Waehlem after bombardment 255

View of the Meuse at Huy 262

Refugees fleeing toward Dunkirk before the German advance 263

Graves of civilians shot by the Germans 266

A typical proclamation 266

Views of the Fort of Waehlem after its bombardment 267

Herbert C. Hoover 282

French Howitzer near H---- 283

German camp kitchen 283

Von Bulow's greeting to the people of Liège (_in text_) 324

How the simple pleasures of the German soldiers were restricted (_in text_) 324

Aux habitants de la Belgique (_in text_) 328

Appeal of the Queen of the Belgians for help from America (_in text_) 338

Julius Van Hee, American Vice-Counsel at Ghent 340

Lewis Richards 340

A Brussels soup-kitchen run by volunteers 341

Meals served to the children in the schools 341

German proclamation announcing the execution of Miss Cavell (_in text_) 349

Miss Edith Cavell 356

Fly-leaf of Miss Cavell's prayer book 357

Notes in Miss Cavell's prayer book 360, 361

 INTRODUCTION

This volume is not a carefully prepared treatise on the war. It does notset out to prove anything. It is merely what its title indicates--aprivate journal jotted down hastily from day to day in odd moments, whenmore pressing duties would permit. Much material has been eliminated asof little interest. Other material of interest has been left out becauseit cannot be published at this time. It is believed, however, that whatis printed here will suffice to give some idea of life in Belgium duringthe first few months of the war. 

I have eliminated from the journal most of the matter about the earlyhistory of the Commission for Relief in Belgium. My day-to-day recorddid not do any sort of justice to the subject, and since it was notadequate, I have preferred to eliminate all but such casual reference tothe relief work as is necessary to maintain the narrative. I amreconciled to this treatment of the subject by the knowledge that thestory will be told comprehensively and well by Dr. Vernon Kellogg, whowill soon publish an authoritative history of the Commission's work. Asformer Director of the Commission in Belgium, he has the detailedknowledge of its workings and the sympathetic understanding of itspurpose, which peculiarly fit him for the task. 

The work of the Commission is of a scope and significance that few of usrealise. It is without doubt the greatest humanitarian enterprise inhistory, conducted under conditions of almost incredible difficulty. Tothose who had an understanding of the work, it had a compelling appeal, not only as an opportunity for service but also as the greatestconservation project of all time--the conservation of one of the finestraces of our civilisation. 

In its inception and execution, the work of the Commission isdistinctively American. Its inception was in the mind of Herbert Hoover;in its execution he had the whole-hearted assistance of a little band ofquiet American gentlemen who laboured in Belgium from the autumn of 1914until we entered the war in April of this year. They came from all partsof our country and from all walks of life. They were simple work-a-dayAmericans, welded together by unwavering devotion to the common task andto Herbert Hoover, the "Chief. " It was the splendid human side of theCommission that made it succeed in spite of all obstacles, and that partof the story will be hard to tell. 

The gallant little band is now widely scattered. Some are carrying ontheir old work from Holland or England or America in order to ensure asteady flow of food to Belgium. Others are serving our Government invarious capacities or fighting in the armies of our allies. Some of themwe shall not see again and there will never be another reunion, as inthe old days, when the "Chief" came over from London to Brussels withwork to be done. But the bright light of kindly human service whichbrought them all together is still aflame and will always be aninspiration to those who served, however humbly, in the great work. 

WASHINGTON, D. C. , SEPT. 24, 1917. 

 A Journal From Our Legation In Belgium

_BRUSSELS, July 4, 1914. _--After years of hard work and revolutions andwars and rumours of war, the change to this quiet post has been mostwelcome and I have wallowed in the luxury of having time to play. 

For the last year or two I have looked forward to just such a post asthis, where nothing ever happens, where there is no earthly chance ofbeing called out of bed in the middle of the night to see the human racebrawling over its differences. When pounding along in the small hours ofthe night, nearly dead with fatigue, I have thought that I should liketo have a long assignment to just such a post and become a diplomaticLotos Eater. And at first it was great fun. 

That phase lasted until I had had a thorough rest, and then the longingfor something more active began to manifest itself. 

I sat down and wrote to the Department of State that while I greatlyappreciated having been sent to this much-coveted post I was readywhenever there might be need of my services to go where there was workto be done. 

 * * * * *

_July 28, 1914. _--Well, the roof has fallen in. War was declared thisafternoon by Austria. The town is seething with excitement andeverybody seems to realise how near they are to the big stage. Threeclasses of reserves have already been called to the colours to defendBelgian neutrality. A general mobilisation is prepared and may bedeclared at any time. The Bourse has been closed to prevent too muchplay on the situation, and let things steady themselves. In every otherway the hatches have been battened down and preparations made for heavyweather. 

To-night the streets are crowded and demonstrations for and against warare being held. The Socialists have Jaurés, their French leader, up fromParis, and have him haranguing an anti-war demonstration in the GrandePlace, where a tremendous crowd has collected. Nobody on earth can seewhere it will all lead. England is trying hard to localise the conflict, and has valuable help. If she does not succeed * * *

An advance guard of tourists is arriving from France, Germany, andSwitzerland, and a lot of them drop in for advice as to whether it issafe for them to go to various places in Europe. And most of them seemto feel that we really have authoritative information as to what thenext few days are to bring forth, and resent the fact that we are toodisobliging to tell them the inside news. A deluge of this sort would beeasier for a full-sized Embassy to grapple with, but as Belgium is oneof those places where nothing ever happens we have the smallest possibleorganisation, consisting on a peace basis of the Minister and myself, with one clerk. We shall have somehow to build up an emergency force tomeet the situation. 

 * * * * *

_July 30th. _--No line on the future yet. Brussels is beginning to lookwarlike. Troops are beginning to appear. The railway stations have beenoccupied, and the Boy Scouts are swarming over the town as busy as birddogs. A week ago there was hardly a tourist in Brussels. Now the Legationhall is filled with them, and they all demand precise information as towhat is going to happen next and where they can go with a guarantee fromthe Legation that they will not get into trouble. 

 * * * * *

_July 31st. _--No, my recent remarks about nothing ever happening inBrussels were not intended as sarcasm. I thought Belgium was the oneplace where I could be sure of a quiet time, and here we are right inthe centre of it. Even if nothing more happens we have had enoughexcitement to last me for some time. The doings of the past few dayshave brought out some idea of what a general European war wouldmean--and it is altogether too dreadful to think of. 

 * * * * *

_Saturday, Aug. 1st. _--Last night when I went home, at about midnight, I found the police going about with the orders for mobilisation, ringingthe door bells and summoning the men to the colours. There was no timeto tarry, but each man tumbled out of bed into his clothes and hurriedaway to his regiment. Two of my neighbours were routed out a littleafter midnight, and got away within the hour. There was a good deal ofweeping and handshaking and farewelling, and it was not the sort ofthing to promote restful sleep. 

This morning I got down to the chancery at a quarter past eight, andfound that Omer, our good messenger, had been summoned to the colours. He had gone, of course, and had left a note for me to announce the fact. He had been ill, and could perfectly well have been exempted. The otherday, when we had discussed the matter, I had told him that there wouldbe no difficulty in getting him off. He showed no enthusiasm, however, and merely remarked, without heroics, that it was up to him. 

Colonel Falls, 7th Regiment, of the National Guard of New York, came in, having been sent back from the frontier. He had the pleasure of standingall the way as the trains were packed. 

Millard Shaler, the American mining engineer, who had just come back fromthe Congo, came in with his amusing Belgian friend who had been tellingus for weeks about the wonderful new car in which he was investing. Thistime he came around to let me have a look at it, he having been advisedthat the car was requisitioned and due to be taken over to-day. 

We have done a land-office business in passports, and shall probablycontinue to turn them out by the dozen. 

 * * * * *

_Sunday, August 2d. _--Another hectic day with promise of more to come. 

This morning I came down a little earlier than usual and found theMinister already hard at it. He had been routed out of bed and had nothad time to bathe or shave. There was nothing to show that it was aSunday--nearly twice as many callers as yesterday, and they were moreexacting. 

Mrs. A---- B---- C---- came in airily and announced that she had startedfrom Paris yesterday on a motor tour through France and Belgium. Havinggot this far, some rude person had told her that her motor might beseized by the Government for military purposes and that an order hadbeen promulgated forbidding any one to take cars out of the country. Shecame around confidently to have us assure her that this was a wickedlie--and needless to say was deeply disappointed in us when we failed toback her up. We had refrained from asking the Government to release ourown servants from their military obligations and have refused to interferefor anybody else, but that was not enough for her. She left, a highlyindignant lady. 

The story is around town this afternoon that the Germans have alreadycrossed the frontier without the formality of a declaration of war--butthat remains to be seen. Brussels was put under martial law last night, and is now patrolled by grenadiers and lancers. 

The money situation is bad. All small change has disappeared in thegeneral panic, and none of it has dared show its head during the pastfew days. The next thing done by panicky people was to pass round wordthat the Government bank notes were no good and would not be honoured. Lots of shops are refusing to accept bank notes, and few places can makeany change. The police are lined up outside the banks keeping people inline. People in general are frantic with fear, and are trampling eachother in the rush to get money out of the banks before the crash thatprobably will not come. Travelers who came here with pockets bulging withexpress checks and bank notes are unable to get a cent of real money, andnobody shows any enthusiasm over American paper. I have a few bank notesleft, and this evening when I went into a restaurant I have patronisedever since my arrival the head waiter refused to change a note for me, and I finally had to leave it and take credit against future meals to beeaten there. We may have our troubles when our small store is gone, butprobably the situation will improve and I refuse to worry. And some ofour compatriots don't understand why the Legation does not have a cellarfull of hard money to finance them through their stay in Europe. 

Communications, with such parts of the world as we still speak to, aregetting very difficult on account of mobilisation, the military havingright of way. This morning's Paris papers have not come in this evening, and there are no promises as to when we shall see them. The news in thelocal papers is scarce and doubtful, and I hope for a word from Paris. 

Word has just come in that the Government has seized the supplies ofbread, rice, and beans, and will fix prices for the present. That is asensible and steadying thing, and should have a good effect. 

Nobody seems to remember that a few days ago Serbia was playing a starrôle in this affair. She seems to have faded away behind the scenes. Afew days ago, Mexico loomed large in the papers and now we have forgottenthat she ever existed. Albania supplied a lot of table talk, and now wethink about as much about her and her troubles as we do about Thibet. 

This afternoon I went around to the Rue Ducale to take a look at theFrench Legation. The tricolor was flying in the fresh breeze, and therewas a big crowd outside cheering itself hoarse. It was made up of menwho were called to the colors and were waiting to enroll themselves andget instructions as to where they should report for duty. The air waselectric, and every now and then the military band struck up theMarseillaise and the crowd instantly became happily delirious. Some ofthem had been standing in the sun for hours waiting to get in and gettheir orders, but they were just as keenly responsive to the music andthe mood of the crowd as anybody. All the crowd in the Legation had beenworking day and night for days, and was dead with fatigue; but, someway, they kept going, and managed to be civil and friendly when I hadbusiness with them. How they do it I don't know. A Frenchman'spoliteness must be more deeply ingrained than even I had supposed. 

On the way back from the Legation this evening, I saw von Below, theGerman Minister, driving home from the Foreign Office to his Legation. He passed close to me, and I saw that the perspiration was standing outon his forehead. He held his hat in his hand and puffed at a cigarettelike a mechanical toy, blowing out jerky clouds of smoke. He lookedneither to left nor right, and failed to give me his usual ceremoniousbow. He is evidently not at ease about the situation, although hecontinues to figure in the newspapers as stating that all is well, thatGermany has no intention of setting foot on Belgian soil, and that allBelgium has to do is to keep calm. In an interview given to _Le Soir_he sums up his reassuring remarks by saying: "Your neighbour's house mayburn but yours will be safe. "

 * * * * *

_August 3, 1914. _--No mail in to-day. All communications seem to bestopped for the time being at least. Mobilisation here and in Francerequires all the efforts of all hands, and little workaday things likemail and newspapers go by the board. 

According to the news which was given me when I got out of bed thismorning, the German Minister last night presented to the BelgianGovernment an ultimatum demanding the right to send German troops acrossBelgium to attack France. He was evidently returning from this pleasantduty when I saw him last night, for the ultimatum seems to have beenpresented at seven o'clock. The King presided over a Cabinet Councilwhich sat all night; and when the twelve hours given by the ultimatumhad expired, at seven this morning, a flat refusal was sent to the GermanLegation. Arrangements were got under way, as the Council sat, to defendthe frontiers of the country against aggression. During the night thegarrison left and the Garde Civique came on duty to police the town. 

The influx of callers was greater to-day than at any time so far, and wewere fairly swamped. Miss Larner came in and worked like a Trojan, takingpassport applications and reassuring the women who wanted to be told thatthe Germans would not kill them even when they got to Brussels. She is agodsend to us. 

Monsieur de Leval, the Belgian lawyer who for ten years has been thelegal counselor of the Legation, came in and brought some good clerkswith him. He also hung up his hat and went to work, making all sorts ofcalls at the Foreign Office, seeing callers, and going about to thedifferent Legations. Granville Fortescue came in from Ostend, and Ishould have put him to work but that he had plans of his own and hasdecided to blossom forth as a war correspondent. He is all for gettingto the "front" if any. 

Just to see what would happen, I went to the telephone after lunch andasked to be put through to the Embassy at London. To my surprise, I gotthe connection in a few minutes and had a talk with Bell, the SecondSecretary. The Cabinet had been sitting since eleven this morning, buthad announced no decision. I telephoned him again this evening and gotthe same reply. Bell said that they had several hundred people in thechancery and were preparing for a heavy blow. 

As nearly as we can make out the Germans have sent patrols into Belgianterritory, but there have been no actual operations so far. All day longwe have been getting stories to the effect that there has been a battleat Visé and that fifteen hundred Belgians had been killed; later it wasstated that they had driven the Germans back with heavy losses. The netresult is that at the end of the day we know little more than we didthis morning. 

Parliament is summoned to meet in special session to-morrow morning tohear what the King has to say about the German ultimatum. It will be aninteresting sight. Parliament has long been rent with most bitterfactional quarrels, but I hear that all these are to be forgotten andthat all parties, Socialists included, are to rally round the throne ina great demonstration of loyalty. 

All the regular troops have been withdrawn from this part of the countryand dispatched to the front, leaving the protection of the capital tothe Garde Civique, who are patrolling the streets, to examine the papersof everybody who moves about. This is a sort of local guard made up ofpeople who have not been called for active military service, but whohave volunteered for local defense. They are from every class--lawyersand butchers and bakers and dentists and university professors. Theyhave, of course, had little training for this sort of work, and have hadonly elementary orders to guide them. These they carry out to the letter. There are detachments of them at all sorts of strategic points in thecity where they hold up passing vehicles to see who is inside. I have beenstopped by them goodness knows how many times this day. They hold up thecar, look inside, apologise, and explain good-naturedly that they areobliged to bother me, asking who I am, and after I have satisfied themwith papers that any well-equipped spy would be ashamed of, they let mego on with more apologies. They rejoice in a traditional uniform toppedoff by a derby hat with kangaroo feathers on it. This is anything butmartial in appearance and seems to affect their funny bone as it doesmine. 

 * * * * *

_August 5th. _--Yesterday morning we got about early and made for theChamber of Deputies to hear the King's speech. The Minister and I walkedover together and met a few straggling colleagues headed in the samedirection. Most of them had got there ahead of us, and the gallerieswere all jammed. The Rue Royale, from the Palace around the park to theParliament building, was packed with people, held in check by the GardeCivique. There was a buzz as of a thousand bees and every face wasablaze--the look of a people who have been trampled on for hundreds ofyears and have not learned to submit. The Garde Civique had two bands infront of the Senate, and they tried to play the Brabançonne in unison. Neither of them could play the air in tune, and they were about a barapart all the time. They played it through and then began to play itover again without a pause between. They blew and pounded steadily fornearly half an hour, and the more they played, the more enthusiastic thecrowds became. 

When I saw how crowded the galleries were I thought I would not push, soresigned myself to missing the speech and went out onto a balcony withWebber, of the British Legation, to see the arrival of the King andQueen. We had the balcony to ourselves, as everybody else was insidefighting for a place in the galleries to hear the speech. 

When the King and Queen finally left the Palace we knew it from a roarof cheering that came surging across the Park. The little processioncame along at a smart trot, and although it was hidden from us by thetrees we could follow its progress by the steadily advancing roaring ofthe mob. When they turned from the Rue Royale into the Rue de la Loi, the crowd in front of the Parliament buildings took up the cheering in away to make the windows rattle. 

First came the staff of the King and members of his household. Then theQueen, accompanied by the royal children, in an open daumont. Thecheering for the Queen was full-throated and with no sign of doubt, because of her Bavarian birth and upbringing--she is looked on as aBelgian Queen and nothing else. 

After the Queen came a carriage or two with members of the royal familyand the Court. Finally the King on horseback. He was in the fielduniform of a lieutenant-general, with no decorations and none of theceremonial trappings usual on such occasions as a speech from theThrone. He was followed by a few members of his staff who also looked asthough they were meant more for business than for dress parade. 

As the King drew rein and dismounted, the cheering burst forth withtwice its former volume; and, in a frantic demonstration of loyalty, hats and sticks were thrown into the air. Two bands played on manfully, but we could hear only an occasional discord. 

Just as the King started into the building an usher came out, touched meon the arm and said something, beckoning me to come inside. One of thegalleries had been locked by mistake but had now been opened, and Webberand I were rewarded for our modesty by being given the whole thing toourselves. In a few minutes the Bolivian Chargé came in and joined us. Our places were not ten feet from the Throne, and we could not have beenbetter placed. 

The Queen came in quietly from one side and took a throne to the left ofthe tribune, after acknowledging a roaring welcome from the members ofthe two Houses. When the cheering had subsided, the King walked inalone from the right, bowed gravely to the assembly and walked quicklyto the dais above and behind the tribune. With a business-like gesturehe tossed his cap on to the ledge before him and threw his white cottongloves into it--then drew out his speech and read it. At first his voicewas not very steady but he soon controlled it and read the speech to theend in a voice that was vibrating with emotion but without any oratoryor heroics. He went straight to the vital need for union between allfactions and all parties, between the French, Flemish, and Walloonraces, between Catholics, Liberals, and Socialists in a determinedresistance to the attack upon Belgian independence. The House couldcontain itself for only a few minutes at a time, and as every point wasdriven home they burst into frantic cheering. When the King, addressinghimself directly to the members of Parliament, said, "Are you determinedat any cost to maintain the sacred heritage of our ancestors?" the wholeChamber burst into a roar, and from the Socialists' side came cries of:"At any cost, by death if need be. "

It was simple and to the point--a manly speech. And as he delivered ithe was a kingly figure, facing for the sake of honour what he knew to bethe gravest danger that could ever come to his country and his people. When he had finished he bowed to the Queen, then to the Parliament, andthen walked quickly out of the room, while the assembly roared again. The Senators and Deputies swarmed about the King on his way out, cheering and trying to shake him by the hand--and none were more atpains to voice their devotion than the Socialists. 

After he had gone the Queen rose, bowed shyly to the assembly, andwithdrew with the royal children. She was given a rousing ovation aseverybody realised the difficulty of her position and was doubly anxiousto show her all their confidence and affection. The whole occasion wasmoving, but when the little Queen acknowledged the ovation so shyly andso sadly and withdrew, the tears were pretty near the surface--mysurface at any rate. 

[Illustration: Facsimile of the first page of the German ultimatum toBelgium. 

 Kaiserlich Brüssel, den 2. August 1914 Deutsche Gesandtschaft in Belgien Trés confidentiel. 

 Der Kaiserlicher Regierung liegen zuverlässige Nachrichten vor ueber den beabsichtigten Aufmarsch französischer Streitkräfte an der Maas-Strecke Givet-Namur. Sie lassen keinen Zweifel ueber die Absicht Frankreichs, durch belgisches Gebiet gegen Deutschland vorzugehen. 

 Die Kaiserliche Regierung kann sich der Besorgniss nicht erwehren, daß Belgien, trotz besten Willens, nicht im Stände sein wird, ohne Hilfe einen französischen Vormarsch mit so großer Aussicht auf Erfolg abzuwehren, daß darin eine ausreichende Sicherheit gegen die Bedrohung Deutschlands gefunden werden kann. Es ist ein Gebot der Selbsterhaltung für Deutschland, dem feindlichen Angriff zuvorzukommen. Mit dem größten Bedauerns würde es daher die deutsche Regierung erfüllen, wenn Belgien einen Akt der Feindseligkeit]

[Illustration: Pass issued by the Belgian military authorities toenable Mr. Gibson to enter the German Legation at Brussels]

[Illustration: Maître Gaston de Leval, legal adviser to the AmericanLegation in Brussels]

For several minutes after the Queen withdrew the cheering continued. Suddenly a tense silence fell upon the room. M. De Broqueville, thePrime Minister, had mounted the tribune and stood waiting for attention. He was clearly under great stress of emotion, and as the House settleditself to hear him he brushed away the tears that had started to hiseyes. He began in a very direct way by saying that he would limithimself to reading a few documents and hoped that, after hearing them, the House would consider the Government worthy of the confidence thathad been reposed in it and that immediate action would be taken uponmatters of urgent importance. He first read the German ultimatum, [1]which was received quietly but with indignation and anger which was withdifficulty suppressed. Without commenting upon the German note, he thenread the reply which had been handed to the German Minister. [2]This was followed by a final note delivered by the German Minister thismorning stating "that in view of the refusal of the King to accede tothe well-intentioned proposals of the Emperor, the Imperial Government, greatly to its regret, was obliged to carry out by force of arms themeasures indispensable to its security. " After reading these documentshe made a short and ringing speech, full of fire, which was repeatedlyinterrupted by cheers. When he came down from the tribune he wassurrounded by cheering Senators and Deputies struggling to shake hishand and express their approval of his speech. Even the Socialists whohad fought him for years rose to the occasion and vied with theircolleagues in their demonstrations of enthusiasm. Broqueville rose againand said: "In the present crisis we have received from the opposition awhole-hearted support; they have rallied to our side in the mostimpressive way in preparing the reply to Germany. In order to emphasisethis union of all factions, His Majesty the King has just signed adecree appointing Monsieur Vandervelde as a Minister of State. " Thisannouncement was greeted by roars of applause from all parts of theHouse, and Vandervelde was immediately surrounded by Ministers andDeputies anxious to congratulate him. His reply to the Prime Minister'sspeech was merely a shout above the roar of applause: "I accept. "

[Footnote 1: The following is the text of the German ultimatum:

 BRUSSELS, August 2, 1914. 

 VERY CONFIDENTIAL. 

 Reliable information has been received by the German Government to the effect that French forces intend to march on the line of the Meuse by Gîvet and Namur. This information leaves no doubt as to the intention of France to march through Belgian territory against Germany. 

 The German Government cannot but fear that Belgium, in spite of the utmost goodwill, will be unable, without assistance, to repel so considerable a French invasion with sufficient prospect of success to afford an adequate guarantee against danger to Germany. It is essential for the self-defence of Germany that she should anticipate any such hostile attack. The German Government would, however, feel the deepest regret if Belgium regarded as an act of hostility against herself the fact that the measures of Germany's opponents force Germany, for her own protection, to enter Belgian territory. 

 In order to exclude any possibility of misunderstanding, the German Government make the following declaration:

 1. Germany has in view no act of hostility against Belgium. In the event of Belgium being prepared in the coming war to maintain an attitude of friendly neutrality towards Germany, the German Government bind themselves, at the conclusion of peace, to guarantee the possessions and independence of the Belgian Kingdom in full. 

 2. Germany undertakes, under the above-mentioned condition, to evacuate Belgian territory on the conclusion of peace. 

 3. If Belgium adopts a friendly attitude, Germany is prepared, in co-operation with the Belgian authorities, to purchase all necessaries for her troops against a cash payment, and to pay an indemnity for any damage that may have been caused by German troops. 

 4. Should Belgium oppose the German troops, and in particular should she throw difficulties in the way of their march by a resistance of the fortresses on the Meuse, or by destroying railways, roads, tunnels or other similar works, Germany will, to her regret, be compelled to consider Belgium as an enemy. 

 In this event, Germany can undertake no obligations towards Belgium, but the eventual adjustment of the relations between the two States must be left to the decision of arms. 

 The German Government, however, entertain the distinct hope that this eventuality will not occur, and that the Belgian Government will know how to take the necessary measures to prevent the occurrence of incidents such as those mentioned. In this case the friendly ties which bind the two neighbouring States will grow stronger and more enduring. ]

[Footnote 2: The Belgian Government replied as follows to the Germanultimatum:

 The German Government stated in their note of the 2nd August, 1914, that according to reliable information French forces intended to march on the Meuse via Gîvet and Namur, and that Belgium, in spite of the best intentions, would not be in a position to repulse, without assistance, an advance of French troops. 

 The German Government, therefore, considered themselves compelled to anticipate this attack and to violate Belgian territory. In these circumstances, Germany proposed that the Belgian Government adopt a friendly attitude towards her, and undertook, on the conclusion of peace, to guarantee the integrity of the Kingdom and its possessions to their full extent. The note added that if Belgium put difficulties in the way of the advance of German troops, Germany would be compelled to consider her as an enemy, and to leave the ultimate adjustment of the relations between the two States to the decision of arms. 

 This note has made a deep and painful impression upon the Belgian Government. 

 The intentions attributed to France by Germany are in contradiction to the formal declarations made to us on August 1st in the name of the French Government. 

 Moreover, if contrary to our expectation, Belgian neutrality should be violated by France, Belgium intends to fulfil her international obligations and the Belgian army would offer the most vigorous resistance to the invader. 

 The treaties of 1839, confirmed by the treaties of 1870, vouch for the independence and neutrality of Belgium under the guarantee of the Powers, and notably of His Majesty the King of Prussia. 

 Belgium has always been faithful to her international obligations; she has carried out her duties in a spirit of loyal impartiality and she has left nothing undone to maintain and enforce respect for her neutrality. 

 The attack upon her independence with which the German Government threaten her constitutes a flagrant violation of international law. No strategic interest justifies such a violation of law. 

 The Belgian Government, if they were able to accept the proposals submitted to them, would sacrifice the honour of the nation and betray their duty towards Europe. 

 Conscious of the part which Belgium has played for more than eighty years in the civilisation of the world, they refuse to believe that the independence of Belgium can only be preserved at the price of the violation of her neutrality. 

 If this hope is disappointed the Belgian Government are firmly resolved to repel, by all the means in their power, every attack upon their rights. 

 Brussels, August 3, 1914 (7 A. M. ). ]

As we came out, some of the colleagues were gathered about debatingwhether they should go over to the Palace and ask to take leave of theKing. They were saved that labour, however, for the King had steppedinto a motor at the door and was already speeding to the GeneralHeadquarters which has been set up nobody knows where. That looks likebusiness. 

When I got back to the Legation I found von Stumm, Counselor of theGerman Legation, with the news that his chief had received his passportsand must leave at once. He had come to ask that the American Ministertake over the care of the German Legation and the protection of theGerman subjects who had not yet left the country. I said that we couldnot undertake anything of that sort without authority from Washington, and got the Minister to telegraph for it when he came in from somehurried visits he had made in search of news. 

While we were snatching some lunch, von Stumm came back with the GermanMinister, von Below, and said that some provisional arrangement must bemade at once as the staff of the Legation would have to leave for theDutch frontier in the course of the afternoon--long before we could hopefor an answer from Washington. We did not like the idea of doing thatsort of thing without the knowledge of Washington, but finally agreed toaccept the charge provisionally on grounds of humanity, until such timeas we should receive specific instructions as to who would be definitelyentrusted with the protection of German interests. In case of need, weshall be asked to take over certain other Legations and shall have ourhands more than full. 

At five o'clock we went over to the German Legation, which we foundsurrounded by a heavy detachment of Garde Civique as a measure ofprotection against violence. We drew up, signed, and sealed a protocolaccepting what is known as _la garde des clefs et des sceaux_, untilsuch time as definite arrangements might be made. The Minister and vonStumm were nearly unstrung. They had been under a great strain for somedays and were making no effort to get their belongings together to takethem away. They sat on the edge of their chairs, mopped their brows andsmoked cigarettes as fast as they could light one from another. I wasgiven a lot of final instructions about things to be done--and all withthe statement that they should be done at once, as the German army woulddoubtless be in Brussels in three days. While we were talking, thechancellor of the Legation, Hofrat Grabowsky, a typical white-hairedGerman functionary, was pottering about with sealing wax and strips ofpaper, sealing the archives and answering questions in a deliberate andperfectly calm way. It was for all the world like a scene in a play. The shaded room, the two nervous diplomats registering anxiety andstrain, the old functionary who was to stay behind to guard the archivesand refused to be moved from his calm by the approaching cataclysm. Itseemed altogether unreal, and I had to keep bringing myself back to arealisation of the fact that it was only too true and too serious. 

They were very ominous about what an invasion means to this country, andkept referring to the army as a steam roller that will leave nothingstanding in its path. Stumm kept repeating: "Oh, the poor fools! Whydon't they get out of the way of the steam roller. We don't want to hurtthem, but if they stand in our way they will be ground into the dirt. Oh, the poor fools!"

The Government had a special train ready for the German diplomatic andconsular officers who were to leave, and they got away about seven. Now, thank goodness, they are safely in Holland and speeding back to theirown country. 

Before leaving, Below gave out word that we would look after Germaninterests, and consequently we have been deluged with frightened peopleever since. 

All the Germans who have remained here seem to be paralysed with fright, and have for the most part taken refuge in convents, schools, etc. Thereare several hundreds of them in the German Consulate-General which hasbeen provisioned as for a siege. Popular feeling is, of course, runninghigh against them, and there may be incidents, but so far nothing hashappened to justify the panic. 

This morning a Belgian priest, the Abbé Upmans, came in to say that hehad several hundred Germans under his care and wanted some provisionmade for getting them away before the situation got any worse. 

After talking the matter over with the Minister and getting hisinstructions, I took the Abbé in tow, and with Monsieur de Leval went tothe Foreign Office to see about getting a special train to take thesepeople across the border into Holland and thence to Germany. At first, the suggestion was received with some resentment and I was told flatlythat there was no good reason for Belgium to hand over special trains tobenefit Germans when every car was needed for military operations. Ipleaded that consideration must be shown these helpless people and thatthis course was just as much in the interest of Belgium as of anybodyelse, as it would remove the danger of violence with possible reprisalsand would relieve the overworked police force of onerous duties. Aftersome argument, Baron Donny went with me to the Sûreté Publique where wewent over the matter again with the Chief. He got the point at once, andjoined forces with us in a request to the Minister of Railways for aspecial train. We soon arranged matters as far as the Belgian frontier. I then telephoned through to The Hague, got Marshal Langhorne and askedhim to request the Dutch Government to send another train to thefrontier to pick our people up and send them through to Germany. He wentoff with a right good will to arrange that, and I hope to have an answerin the morning. 

We plan to start the train on Friday morning at four o'clock, so as toget our people through the streets when there are few people about. Weare making it known that all Germans who wish to leave should put in anappearance by that time, and it looks as though we should have fromseven hundred to a thousand to provide for. It will be a great relief toget them off, and I hold my breath until the train is safely gone. 

The Belgian Government is making no distinction between Germans, and isletting those liable for military service get away with the others. 

Wild stories have begun to circulate about what is bound to happen toAmericans and other foreigners when hostilities get nearer to Brussels, and we have had to spend much time that could have been devoted tobetter things in calming a lot of excitable people of both sexes. Ifinally dug out the plan of organisation of the foreigners for the Siegeof Peking and suggested to the Minister that, in order to give thesepeople something to do and let them feel that something was being done, we should get them together and appoint them all on committees to lookafter different things. This was done to-day. Committees were appointedto look for a house where Americans could be assembled in case ofhostilities in the immediate vicinity of Brussels; to look after thefood supply; to attend to catering; to round up Americans and see thatthey get to the place of refuge when the time comes; to look afterdestitute Americans, etc. Now they are all happy and working likebeavers, although there is little chance that their work will serve anyuseful purpose aside from keeping them occupied. We got Mrs. Shaler toopen up the Students' Club, which had been closed for the summer, sothat the colony can have a place to meet and work for the Red Cross andkeep its collective mind off the gossip that is flying about. 

Last night our cipher telegrams to Washington were sent back from thetelegraph office with word that under the latest instructions from theGovernment they could not be forwarded. The Minister and I hurried overto the Foreign Office, where we found several of the colleagues on thesame errand. It was all a mistake, due to the fact that the GeneralStaff had issued a sweeping order to stop all cipher messages withoutstopping to consider our special case. It was fixed after some debate, and the Minister and I came back to the shop and got off our lasttelegrams, which were finished at three this morning. 

I was back at my desk by a little after eight and have not finished thisday's work, although it is after midnight. I have averaged from three tofive hours sleep since the trouble began and, strange to say, I thriveon it. 

I have called several times to-day at the French and British Legationsto get the latest news. They keep as well posted as is possible in theprevailing confusion, and are most generous and kind in giving useverything they properly can. 

There seems to have been a serious engagement to-day at Liège, which theGermans are determined to reduce before proceeding toward France. Thereport is that the attack was well resisted and the Germans driven backwith heavy loss. A number of prisoners have been taken and were beingbrought into Brussels this evening along with the wounded. In thecourse of the fighting there was a sort of charge of the Light Brigade;one squadron of Belgian Lancers was obliged to attack six times itsnumber of Germans and was cut to pieces, only one officer escaping. Themorale of the Belgians is splendid. 

This afternoon as the Minister and I were going to call on the BritishMinister, we passed the King and his staff headed out the Rue de la Loifor the front. They looked like business. 

Several times to-day I have talked over the telephone with the Embassyin London. They seem to be as strong on rumours as we are here. Onerumour I was able to pass on to Bell was to the effect that the Britishflagship had been sunk by German mines with another big warship. Anotherto the effect that five German ships have been destroyed by the Frenchfleet off the coast of Algeria, etc. , etc. 

The Red Cross is hard at work getting ready to handle the wounded, andeverybody is doing something. Nearly everybody with a big house hasfitted it in whole or in part as a hospital. Others are rolling bandagesand preparing all sorts of supplies. 

The military attachés are all going about in uniform now. Each Legationhas a flag on its motor and the letters C. D. --which are supposed tostand for Corps Diplomatique, although nobody knows it. I have seizedMrs. Boyd's big car for my own use. D. L. Blount has put his car at thedisposal of the Minister and is to drive it himself. 

There is talk already of moving the Court and the Government to Antwerp, to take refuge behind the fortifications. When the Germans advancebeyond Liège, the Government will, of course, have to go, and thediplomatic corps may follow. It would be a nuisance for us, and I hopewe may be able to avoid it. 

Germans are having an unhappy time, and I shall be happier when they areacross the border. Nothing much seems to have happened to them beyondhaving a few shops wrecked in Antwerp and one or two people beaten uphere. One case that came to my knowledge was an outraged man who hadbeen roughly handled and could not understand why. All he had done wasto stand in front of a café where the little tables are on the sidewalkand remark: "Talk all the French you can. You'll soon have to talkGerman. " Of course there are a lot of Belgians, Swiss and Dutch whorejoice in good German names and they are not having a pleasant time. One restaurant called Chez Fritz, I saw when coming along the Boulevardthis evening, had hung out a blackboard with the proud device: "_Fritzest Luxembourgeois, mais sa Maison est Belge. _" He was taking no chanceson having the place smashed. 

 * * * * *

_August 6th. _--This morning when I came into the Legation I found theMinister of Justice in top hat and frock coat waiting to see somebody. He had received a report that a wireless station had been established ontop of the German Legation and was being run by the people who were leftin the building. He came to ask the Minister's consent to send a judgeto look, see and draw up a _procès verbal_. In our own artless littleAmerican way we suggested that it might be simpler to go straight overand find out how much there was to the report. The Minister of Justicehad a couple of telegraph linemen with him, and as soon as Mr. Whitlockcould get his hat, we walked around the corner to the German Legation, rang the bell, told the startled occupants that we wanted to go up tothe garret and--up we went. 

When we got there we found that the only way onto the roof was by a longperpendicular ladder leading to a trap door. We all scrambled upthis--all but the Minister of Justice, who remained behind in the garretwith his top hat. 

We looked the place over very carefully, and the workmen--evidently inorder to feel that they were doing something--cut a few wires whichprobably resulted in great inconvenience to perfectly harmless peoplefarther along the street. But there was no evidence of a wirelessoutfit. One of the men started to explain to me how that proved nothingat all; that an apparatus was now made that could be concealed in a hatand brought out at night to be worked. He stopped in the middle of aword, for suddenly we heard the rasping intermittent hiss of a wirelessvery near at hand. Everybody stiffened up like a lot of pointers, and ina minute had located the plant. It was nothing but a rusty girouette ontop of a chimney being turned by the wind and scratching spitefully atevery turn. The discovery eased the strain and everybody laughed. 

Then there was another sound, and we all turned around to see a trapdoor raised and the serene, bemonocled face of my friend Cavalcantilooked out on us in bewilderment. In our search we had strayed overonto the roof of the Brazilian Legation. It seemed to cause him somesurprise to see us doing second-story work on their house. It was afunny situation--but ended in another laugh. It is a good thing we canwork in a laugh now and then. 

The day was chiefly occupied with perfecting arrangements for gettingoff our German refugees. The Minister wished the job on me, and I withsome elements of executive ability myself gave the worst part of it toNasmith, the Vice-Consul-General. Modifications became necessary everyfew minutes, and Leval and I were running around like stricken deer allday, seeing the disheartening number of government officials who wereconcerned, having changes made and asking for additional trains. Duringthe afternoon more and more Germans came pouring into the Consulate forrefuge, until there were over two thousand of them there, terriblycrowded and unhappy. Several convents were also packed, and wecalculated that we should have two or three thousand to get out of thecountry. In the morning the Legation was besieged by numbers of poorpeople who did not know which way to turn and came to us because theyhad been told that we would take care of them. We were all kept busy;and Leval, smothering his natural feelings, came out of his own accordand talked and advised and calmed the frightened people in their ownlanguage. None of us would have asked him to do it, but he was fineenough to want to help and to do it without any fuss. 

A crowd of curious people gathered outside the Legation to watch thecallers, and now and then they boo-ed a German. I looked out of thewindow in time to see somebody in the crowd strike at a poor little wormof a man who had just gone out the door. He was excited and foolishenough to reach toward his hip pocket as though for a revolver. In aninstant the crowd fell on him; and although Gustave, the messenger, andI rushed out we were just in time to pull him inside and slam the doorbefore they had a chance to polish him off. Gustave nearly had hisclothes torn off in the scrimmage, but stuck to his job. An inspiredidiot of an American tourist who was inside tried to get the door openand address the crowd in good American, and I had to handle him mostundiplomatically to keep him from getting us all into trouble. The crowdthumped on the door a little in imitation of a mob scene, and the GardeCivique had to be summoned on the run from the German Legation to drivethem back and establish some semblance of order. Then de Leval and Iwent out and talked to the crowd--that is to say, we went out and hetalked to the crowd. He told them very reasonably that they were doingharm to Belgium, as actions of this sort might bring reprisals whichwould cost the country dear, and that they must control their feelings. He sounded the right note so successfully that the crowd broke up with acheer. 

Orders have been issued to permit us free use of the telephone andtelegraph, although they have been cut for everybody else. Yesterdayafternoon I talked with the Consulates at Ghent and Antwerp. They wereboth having their troubles with Germans who wanted to get out of thecountry. I told them to send everybody up here and let them report attheir own consulate, where they will be looked after. 

The Government is taking no chances of having trouble because of thedoings of francs-tireurs. The Minister of the Interior sent out, on the4th, a circular to every one of the 2, 700 communes in the country to beposted everywhere. The circular points out in simple and emphatic termsthe duty of civilians to refrain from hostile acts and makes it clearthat civilians might be executed for such acts. Aside from this, everynewspaper in the country has printed the following notice signed by theMinister of the Interior:

 TO CIVILIANS

 The Minister of the Interior advises civilians, in case the enemy should show himself in their district:

 Not to fight;

 To utter no insulting or threatening words;

 To remain within their houses and close the windows, so that it will be impossible to allege that there has been any provocation;

 To evacuate any houses or small village which may be occupied by soldiers in order to defend themselves, so that it cannot be alleged that civilians have fired;

 An act of violence committed by a single civilian would be a crime for which the law provides arrest and punishment. It is all the more reprehensible in that it might serve as a pretext for measures of repression resulting in bloodshed and pillage or the massacre of the innocent population with women and children. 

In the course of the afternoon we got our telegrams telling of theappropriation by Congress of two and a half millions for the relief ofAmericans in Europe, and the despatch of the _Tennessee_ with the moneyon board. Now all hands want some of the money and a cabin on the_Tennessee_ to go home in. 

----, the Wheat King, came into the Legation this morning and was verygrateful because we contrived to cash out of our own pockets atwenty-dollar express check for him. He was flat broke with his pocketbulging with checks and was living in a _pension_ at six francs a day. There is going to be a lot of discomfort and suffering unless some moneyis made available pretty soon. The worst of it is that this is theheight of the tourist season and Europe is full of school-teachers andother people who came over for short trips with meager resourcescarefully calculated to get them through their traveling and home againby a certain date. If they are kept long they are going to be in a badway. One of our American colony here, Heineman, had a goodly store ofcurrency and had placed it at the disposal of the Legation, to be usedin cashing at face value travelers' checks and other similar paper whichbankers will not touch now with a pair of tongs. Shaler has taken chargeof that end of the business and has all the customers he can handle. Heineman will have to bide his time to get any money back on all hiscollection of paper, and his contribution has meant a lot to people whowill never know who helped them. 

[Illustration: Her Majesty, Elisabeth, Queen of the Belgians_Photograph by Underwood & Underwood_]

[Illustration: Mr. Brand Whitlock, American Minister to Belgium]

There was a meeting of the diplomatic corps last night to discuss thequestion of moving with the Court to Antwerp in certain eventualities. It is not expected that the Government will move unless and until theGermans get through Liège and close enough to threaten Louvain, which isonly a few miles out of Brussels. There was no unanimous decision on thesubject, but if the Court goes, the Minister and I will probably taketurns going up, so as to keep in communication with the Government. There is not much we can accomplish there, and we have so much to dohere that it will be hard for either of us to get away. It appeals tosome of the colleagues to take refuge with a Court in distress, but Ican see little attraction in the idea of settling down inside the lineof forts and waiting for them to be pounded with heavy artillery. 

Liège seems to be holding out still. The Belgians have astonishedeverybody, themselves included. It was generally believed even here thatthe most they could do was to make a futile resistance and get slaughteredin a foolhardy attempt to defend their territory against invasion. Theyhave, however, held off a powerful German attack for three or four days. It is altogether marvelous. All papers have the head lines: "_Les fortstiennent toujours. _"

In the course of the afternoon we arranged definitely that at threeo'clock this morning there should be ample train accommodations ready atthe Gare du Nord to get our Germans out of the country. Nasmith and Iare to go down and observe the entire proceedings, so that we can givean authoritative report afterward. 

There is a German-American girl married to a German who lives across thestreet from me. I sent her word to-day that she and her husband andlittle boy had better get away while there was a way open. Last eveningwhile we were at dinner at the Legation the three of them arrived in apanic. They had heard that there was a mob of ten thousand people aboutthe German Consulate about to break in and kill every German in theplace. Of course they could not be persuaded to go near the Consulate orany of the other refuges. They wanted to settle down and stay at theLegation. As the Minister was on his way out to the meeting of thecorps, the woman waylaid him, had got down on her knees and kissed hishand and groveled and had hysterics. He called for me and we got themquieted down. I finally agreed to go down to the Consulate and take alook so as to reassure them. 

When I got there I found that the streets had been barred off by themilitary for two blocks in every direction, and that there was only asmall crowd gathered to see what might happen. About as hostile as a lotof children. I got through the line of troops and in front of theConsulate found several hundreds of the refugees who had been broughtout to be marched to the Cirque Royale, where they could be morecomfortably lodged until it was time to start for the train. They weresurrounded by placid Gardes Civiques and were all frightened to death. They had had nothing to do for days but talk over the terrible fate thatawaited them if the bloodthirsty population of Brussels ever got atthem; the stories had grown so that the crowd had hypnotised itself andwas ready to credit any yarn. The authorities showed the greatestconsideration they could under their orders. They got the crowd startedand soon had them stowed away inside the Cirque Royale, an indoor circusnear the Consulate. Once they got inside, a lot of them gave way totheir feelings and began to weep and wail in a way that bade fair to setoff the entire crowd. One of the officers came out to where I was andbegged me to come in and try my hand at quieting them. I climbed up on atrunk and delivered an eloquent address to the effect that nobody hadany designs on them; that the whole interest of the Belgian Governmentlay in getting them safely across the frontier; called their attentionto the way the Garde Civique was working to make them comfortable, andto reassure them, promised that I would go with them to the station, putthem on their trains, and see them safely off for the frontier. Thatparticular crowd cheered up somewhat, but I could not get near enough tobe heard by the entire outfit at one time, so one of the officersdragged me around from one part of the building to another until I hadharangued the entire crowd on the instalment plan. They all knew that wewere charged with their interests, and there was nearly a riot when Iwanted to leave. They expected me to stay right there until they weretaken away. 

I came back to the Legation and told my people that the way was clearand that they had nothing to worry about. Mrs. Whitlock and Miss Larnerhad taken the family in hand, were petting the baby boy, and had themall cheered up to a sensible state of mind. I got them into the motorand whisked them down to the lines that were drawn about the block. Herewe were stopped and, sooner than undertake a joint debate with thesentry, I was for descending and going the rest of the way on foot. Whena few of the idly curious gathered about the car, the woman nearly hada fit and scrambled back into the car almost in spasms. Of course thescene drew some more people and we soon had a considerable crowd. Igathered up the boy--who was a beauty and not at all afraid--and tookhim out of the car. There was in the front rank an enormous Belgian witha fiercely bristling beard. He looked like a sane sort, so I said tohim: "_Expliquez à ces gens que vous n'êtes pas des ogres pour croquerles enfants. _" He growled out affably: "_Mais non, on ne mange pas lesenfants, ni leurs mères, _" and gathered up the baby and passed him aboutfor the others to look at. My passengers then decided that they were notin such mortal danger and consented to get out. An officer I knew camealong and offered to escort them inside. On the way in I ran into MadameCarton de Wiart, wife of the Minister of Justice, who was there to dowhat she could to make things run smoothly. She is rabid about theGermans, but is not for taking it out on these helpless people. And thatseems to be the spirit of everybody, although it would be quiteunderstandable if they showed these people some of their resentment. TheGardes were bestirring themselves to look after their charges. Some ofthem had contributed their pocket money and had bought chocolate andmilk for the children and mineral waters and other odds and ends forthose that needed them. And some of them are not very sure as to howlong they will have pocket money for themselves. Aside from the frightand the heat and the noise of that crowd in the Cirque, it was allpretty depressing. During the night one old man died--probably fromfright and shock--and a child was born. It was altogether a night ofhorror that could perfectly well have been avoided if people had onlybeen able to keep calm and stay at home until time for the train toleave. 

Having settled my charges and taken a look round, I went back to theLegation and got off some telegrams and talked with Bell over thetelephone. He had a lot of news that we had not received and manyerrands to be done for people who had friends and relatives here. 

A little after midnight friend Nasmith came along and we set outtogether for our rounds. We first took a look at one or two places andthen went to my diggings for a sandwich and such rest as we could getbefore time to start on our round-up. Soon after midnight, Fortescuecame rolling up in a cab looking for a place to lay his head. He hadjust come in from Liège, where he had had a close view of yesterdaymorning's heavy fighting. He said the Germans were pouring men inbetween the forts in solid formation, and that these sheep were beingmown down by the Belgians heavily intrenched between the forts. TheGermans are apparently determined to get some of their men throughbetween the forts and are willing to pay the price, whatever it may be. To-day we hear that the Germans have asked for an armistice oftwenty-four hours to bury their dead. 

After we had hung upon his words as long as he could keep going, Nasmithand I got under way to look after our exodus. The Garde was keepingorder at all places where there were refugees, and I was easy in my mindabout that; my only worry was as to what might happen when we got ourpeople out into the streets. Promptly at three o'clock we began to marchthem out of the Cirque. The hour was carefully chosen as the one whenthere were the least possible people in the streets; the evening crowdswould have gone home and the early market crowd would hardly havearrived. A heavy guard was thrown around the people as they came out ofthe building and they were marched quickly and quietly down back streetsto the Gare du Nord. I never saw such a body of people handled soquickly and yet without confusion. In the station four trains were drawnup side by side; as the stream of people began pouring into the station, it was directed to the first platform and the train was filled in a fewminutes. At just the right moment the stream was deflected to the nextplatform, and so on until all four trains were filled. After startingthe crowd into the station and seeing that there was going to be notrouble, I set off with an officer of the Garde Civique to see aboutother parties coming from some of the convents. They had not waited forus, but were already moving, so that when we got back to the stationthey tacked onto the end of the first party and kept the stream flowing. 

As fast as the trains were filled, the signal was given and they pulledout silently. I stood behind some of the Garde Civique and watched thecrowd pour in. The Gardes did not know who I was aside from the factthat my presence seemed to be countenanced by their officers, and so Ioverheard what they had to say. They were a decent lot and kept saying:_Mais c'est malheureux tout de même! Regardez donc ces pauvres gens. Cen'est pas de leur faute_, and a lot more of that sort of thing. 

It takes a pretty fine spirit to be able to treat the enemy that way. A lot of people in the passing crowd spotted me and stopped to saygood-bye or called out as they went by. It was pathetic to see howgrateful they were for the least kind word. I never saw such a pitifulcrowd in my life and hope I never may again. They hurried along, lookingfurtively to right and left with the look of a rat that is in fear ofhis life. I have seldom pitied people more, for that sort of fear mustbe the most frightful there is--simple fear of physical violence. 

It was remarkable to see the different classes of people who were there. The Manager of a bank of Brussels had abandoned everything he owned andjoined the crowd. There were several financiers of standing who feltobliged to flee with their families. And there were lots of servants whohad lived here for years and were really Belgian in everything butbirth. Just before the last train left some closed wagons came from theprisons to bring a lot of Germans and wish them back on their owncountry in this way. 

And there was not an incident. Here and there a prowling cab driverhooted, but there was not a stone thrown or any other violence. Beforethe last of the procession got into the station, it was nearly sixo'clock and broad daylight. We moved up the platform with Major Dandoyand watched the last train leave. The Abbé Upmans was there through itall, working like a trump, bucking the people up; he did not stop untilthe last train pulled out into the fresh summer morning, and then hestayed aboard after the train was in motion to shake hands with a littlehandful of downhearted people. He shook himself and heaved a sigh ofrelief--remarking quietly that his duty had required him to go throughall this and look after his charges while they were in trouble--but thatnow he might have the satisfaction of being a Belgian. I too heaved asigh of relief, but it was because the mob was safely off and I need notworry about street fighting. 

Dandoy had not had any sleep for nearly sixty hours, and though Nasmithand I were pretty tired ourselves, we thought the least we could do wasto take him home. His family is in Liège and he has not been able to getany word from them. I offered to try a telephone message to the Consulat Liège, but have had no luck with it. None the less, Dandoy has beenmost grateful. 

Before we left the station they began bringing in the wounded andprisoners. Most of the wounded I saw were not badly hurt, and wereplucky and confident. Most of them were supported or led by Boy Scoutswho have taken off the military the full burden of messenger work and alot of other jobs. They are being of real value, as they can do lots ofuseful things and thereby release grown men for service at the front. 

When I got back to the Rue St. Boniface--after stopping at the Legationto see what had come in--had just time to throw myself down for atwenty-minute rest before the slave came in with my coffee. And thenwith no time for a tub, I had to hurry back and get into the harness. And none too soon, for the work began to pour in and I have been kepton the jump all day. If all goes well I hope to get to bed some timeafter midnight to-night. That means about three hours sleep and hardgoing during the past forty-eight hours. 

This morning the various American committees came to the Legation toreport on the measures they have taken for the protection of the colonyin case of danger. I have been handed the pleasant task of Chief ofStaff, with full authority to settle all matters affecting theprotection of Americans in case hostilities reach this part of thecountry, as seems may well be the case before many days. In harmony withmy well-known policy of passing the buck--more politely known asexecutive ability--I impressed Major Boyer of the Army, who is here forthe time. He has set up an office at the headquarters of the committeeand makes it his business to keep me fully posted as to what is going onthere. First I started him out to look at the various houses that havebeen under discussion by the committee, so that he could decide as totheir relative accessibility and general strategic advantages. He didthis and made all sorts of arrangements tending to co-ordinate the workof the various sub-committees along the lines of the plan we drew up. Itwill be a great thing to have somebody who will act as buffer for allthe detail and relieve me of just that much. 

Germans who for one reason or another had not got away on our train keptturning up all day, and we kept sending them along to the Consulate. Late this afternoon the hard-working Nasmith came in to say that therewere already seven hundred of them gathered there. We shall have tohave another special train for day after to-morrow morning, and hope toget most of the remaining Germans out of harm's way by that time. 

The Belgians continue to be a surprise. At last accounts they were stillholding the forts at Liège. The French appear to have establishedthemselves along the Meuse and to be ready for the attack when it comes. Where the British troops are, nobody here seems to know--and, strange tosay, they are not advertising their whereabouts. There are plenty ofpeople who have had confidential tips from their cook's brother, wholives in the country and has seen them with his own eyes. According tosuch stories they are all landed at Ostend and are being hurried acrossthe country through Malines. Another story is that they have beenshipped through to Liège in closed freight cars to outwit German spies, and that they are now in the thick of it. According to still another ofthese confidential fellows, they have been shipped through Brusselsitself in the night and we were unaware when they passed under our verywindows. You can choose any story you like and get an audience with itthese days. 

To-day's mouth-to-mouth news is that the French have fought a big battlenear St. Hubert and repulsed the Germans with heavy losses. This hasabout as much confirmation as the reports as to the whereabouts of theBritish army. 

To-day trains have been coming in all day with wounded from Liège, andthe lot--Belgian and German--are being cared for by the Red Cross. ThePalace has been turned into a hospital, and the Queen has taken overthe supervision of it. Nearly every big hotel in town has turned itsdining-room into a ward, and guests are required to have their meals intheir rooms. Some of the big department stores have come up finely inoutfitting hospitals and workrooms, clearing out their stocks, andletting profits go hang for the time being. The International HarvesterCompany cleared its offices here and installed twenty-fivebeds--informing the Red Cross that it would take care of the runningexpenses as long as the war lasts. The hospital facilities have grownfar faster than the wounded have come in, and there is an element ofhumour in the rush of eager women who go to the station and almost fightfor the wounded as they are brought off the trains. 

I impressed the services of several people to help out to-day, but themost valuable are two crack stenographers who have been turned over tous by business firms here. By dint of labouring with them all morningand afternoon and seeing as few people as possible, I have managed toclean up my desk, so that I can go to bed with a clear conscienceto-night when I have got through my call to London. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 8, 1914. _--To-day our new organisation is working likeclockwork. In Cruger's formerly calm chancery there are five typewriterspounding away, and at the committee rooms there are swarms of peopleworking to take care of odds and ends. Monsieur de Leval has a table atone side of my room, and the committee relieves us of the people whowant information and those who want to talk. 

 * * * * *

_Sunday, August 9th. _--I got this far when the roof fell in last night. During the afternoon yesterday I got out to attend to a few odds andends of errands--and, as always happens when I go out, things began tohappen. I came back to find the Minister and de Leval wrestling with abig one. 

A curious telegram had come from The Hague, quoting the text of amessage which the German Government desired us to present to the BelgianGovernment. Here it is in translation, a truly German message:

 The fortress of Liège has been taken by assault after a brave defense. The German Government most deeply regret that bloody encounters should have resulted from the attitude of the Belgian Government toward Germany. Germany is not coming as an enemy into Belgium; it is only through the force of circumstances that she has had, owing to the military measures of France, to take the grave decision of entering Belgium and occupying Liège as a base for her further military operations. Now that the Belgian army has upheld the honour of its arms by its heroic resistance to a very superior force, the German Government beg the King of the Belgians and the Belgian Government to spare Belgium further horrors of war. The German Government are ready for any compact with Belgium which can be reconciled with their conflicts with France. Germany once more gives her solemn assurance that it is not her intention to appropriate Belgian territory to herself and that such an intention is far from her thoughts. Germany is still ready to evacuate Belgium as soon as the state of war will allow her to do so. 

Of course we were loath to present anything of the sort, but the thinghad to be handled carefully. After some pow-wowing I went over to theForeign Office with the message and saw Baron van der Elst. I told himseriously that we had received a very remarkable telegram whichpurported to contain a message from the German Government; that it boreno marks of authenticity, and that we were not sure as to its source;but that we felt that we should be lacking in frankness if we did notshow him what we had received. He seized the message and read itthrough, his amazement and anger growing with each line. When he hadfinished, he gasped for a minute or two and then led me into the nextroom to the Minister for Foreign Affairs, M. Davignon, to whom hetranslated the telegram aloud. When they had finished discussing themessage and I had a pretty clear idea as to the Belgian attitude towardthe proposal--not that I had had any real doubt--I asked him: "If theAmerican Minister had delivered this message what would have been itsreception?" Without an instant's hesitation, M. Davignon replied: "Weshould have resented his action and should have declined to receive thecommunication. "

That was all I wanted to know and I was ready to go back to theLegation. 

I took Baron van der Elst home in the car and had the pleasure of seeinghim explain who he was to several Gardes Civiques, who held up the carfrom time to time. He was very good-natured about it, and only resentedthe interruptions to what he was trying to say. His son is in the armyand he has no news of him. As he got out of the car he remarked that ifit were not so horrible, the mere interest of events would be enough tomake these days wonderful. 

When I got back to the Legation and reported the result of my visit, wewent to work and framed a telegram to Washington, giving the text ofthe German message, explaining that we had nothing to prove itsauthenticity and adding that we had reason to believe that the BelgianGovernment would not accept it. The same message was sent to The Hague. This pleasant exercise with the code kept us going until four in themorning. Eugène, the wonder chauffeur, had no orders, but curled up onthe front seat of his car and waited to take me home. He was also onhand when I got up a couple of hours later, to take me back to theLegation. Chauffeurs like that are worth having. 

When I came in this morning the place was packed with Germans. Somecheerful idiot had inserted a notice in the papers that all Germans wereto be run out of the country, and that they should immediately apply tothe American Legation. As the flood poured in, Leval got on thetelephone to the Sûreté Publique and found out the true facts. Then weposted a notice in the hall. But that was not enough. As is always thecase with humans, they all knew better than to pay any attention to whatthe notice said and each one of the hundred or more callers had somereason to insist on talking it over with somebody. When they once gothold of one of us, it was next to impossible to get away withoutlistening to the whole story of their lives. All they had to do was togo down to the German Consulate-General, where we had people waiting totell them all there was to know. It was hard to make them realise thatby taking up all our time in this way, they were preventing us fromdoing things that were really necessary to serve them in more importantmatters. I said as much to several of them, who were unusuallylong-winded, but every last one replied that HIS case was different andthat he must be heard out at length. 

Our refugee train left this morning and took eight hundred more of thepoor people. Where they all turn up from, I don't know, but each daybrings us a fresh and unexpected batch. Many of the cases are very sad, but if we stop to give sympathy in every deserving case, we should neverget anything practical done for them. 

To-day's budget of news is that the French have got to Mulhouse and haveinflicted a decisive defeat upon the Germans. According to reports, theAlsatians went mad when the French troops crossed the frontier for thefirst time in forty-four years. They tore up and burned the frontierposts and generally gave way to transports of joy. I would have given alot to see the crowds in Paris. 

A letter came yesterday from Omer, the legation footman, who is atTirlemont with the artillery. He said he had not yet been hit, althoughhe had heard the bullets uncomfortably near. He wound up by saying thathe had _beaucoup de courage_--and I believe him. 

It seems that some of the German troops did not know what they wereattacking and thought they were in France. When brought here asprisoners, some of them expressed surprise to find that Paris was sosmall. They seem to have thought that they were in France and the goalnot far away. 

The King to-day received through other channels the message from theEmperor of Germany in regard to peace, which we declined to transmit. Ihave not seen its text, but hear it is practically identical with themessage sent us, asking the King to name his conditions for theevacuation of Liège and the abandonment of his allies, so that Germanymay be entirely free of Belgian opposition in her further operationsagainst France. I have heard among Belgians only the most indignantcomments on the proposal and look forward with interest to seeing theanswer of the King, which should appear to-morrow. [3]

[Footnote 3: The Belgian reply, which was sent on August 12th throughthe Netherlands Minister for Foreign Affairs, is as follows:

 The proposal made to us by the German Government repeats the proposal which was formulated in the ultimatum of August 2nd. Faithful to her international obligations, Belgium can only reiterate her reply to that ultimatum, the more so as since August 3rd, her neutrality has been violated, a distressing war has been waged on her territory, and the guarantors of her neutrality have responded loyally and without delay to her appeal. ]

The town is most warlike in appearance. There is hardly a house in thetown that does not display a large Belgian flag. It looks as though itwere bedecked for a fiesta. Here and there are French and British flags, but practically no others. Every motor in town flies a flag or flags atthe bow. We fly our own, but none the less, the sentries, who arestationed at all the corners dividing the chief quarters of the town andbefore all the Ministries and other public buildings, stop us and demandthe papers of the chauffeur and each passenger in the car. We havepassports and all sorts of other papers, but that was not enough, and wefinally had to be furnished by the Ministry for Foreign Affairs with aspecial _laisser-passer_. This afternoon I slipped out for a breath ofair and was held up and told that even that was no good until I had hadit viséd by the military authorities. It is said that these strictmeasures are the result of the discovery of a tremendous spy systemhere. According to the stories which are told, but of which we havelittle confirmation, spies are being picked up all the time in thestrangest disguises. 

The gossip and "inside news" that is imparted to us is screaminglyfunny--some of it. 

Yesterday, according to one of these yarns, four nuns arriving at theGare du Midi were followed for some time and finally arrested. Whensearched, they proved to be young German officers who had adopted thatdress in order to conceal carrier pigeons which they were about todeliver in Brussels. Wireless outfits are said to have been discoveredin several houses belonging to Germans. I cannot remember all the yarnsthat are going about, but even if a part of them are true, it shouldmake interesting work for those who are looking for the spies. Theregular arrests of proven spies have been numerous enough to turn everyBelgian into an amateur spy-catcher. Yesterday afternoon Burgomaster Maxwas chased for several blocks because somebody raised a cry of"_Espion_" based on nothing more than his blond beard and chubby face. Iam just as glad not to be fat and blond these days. 

Yesterday afternoon a Garde Civique came in with the announcement thatthe chancellor and clerks of the German Legation, who were locked upthere, were in dire distress; that a baby had been born the day beforeto the wife of the concièrge, and that all sorts of troubles had comeupon them. Leval, who had announced that his heart was infinitelyhardened against all Germans, was almost overcome by the news of asuffering baby and ran like a lamp-lighter to get around there and helpout. When we arrived, however, we found them all beaming and happy. Thebaby had been born some days before and the mother was up and aboutbefore the Legation had been closed. Their meals are sent in from aneighbouring restaurant, and they are perfectly contented to bide theirtime as they are. They had orders from Berlin not to leave the Legation, so it made little difference to them whether they were blockaded by theBelgian authorities or not. I shall drop in every day or two and seewhether there is anything I can do to lighten their gloom. Of coursetheir telephone was cut off and they are not allowed to receive mail orpapers, so they are consumed with curiosity about developments. It was, of course, necessary to refuse to answer their questions about what wasgoing on and to make assurance doubly sure, I had the Garde Civiquestand by me while I talked with them. 

As things shape up now it looks as though we were the only life-sizedcountry that could keep neutral for long, and as a consequence all therepresentatives of the countries in conflict are keeping us pretty wellposted in the belief that they may have to turn their interests over tous. We shall probably soon have to add Austrian interests to the Germanburdens we now have. If there is a German advance, some of the Alliedministers will no doubt turn their legations over to us. The consequenceis that we may see more of the inside of things than anybody else. Now, at least, we are everybody's friends. This is undoubtedly the mostinteresting post in Europe for the time being, and I would not beanywhere else for the wealth of the Indies. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, Aug. 10, 1914. _--The Belgian Government has finally got out aproclamation, urging German subjects to leave the country, but statingthat in the event of a general order of expulsion, certain classes ofpeople will be allowed to remain, such as, very old persons, the sick, governesses, nurses, etc. , and even others for whom Belgians ofundoubted reputation are willing to vouch. There are quantities ofGermans who have lived here all their lives, who are really more Belgianthan German, have no interest in the present conflict and are threatenedwith financial ruin if they leave their interests here, and it is prettyhard on them if they are to be obliged to get out, but they are only afew of the many, many thousands who are suffering indirectly from theeffects of the war. It is not any easier for the manufacturers in theneighbourhood of Liège, who will see the work of many years wiped out bythe present hostilities. Some inspired idiot inserted in the papersyesterday the news that the Legation was attending to the repatriationof German subjects and the consequence is that our hallways have beenjammed with Germans all day, making uncouth noises and trying to arguewith us as to whether or not we are in charge of German interests. Themere fact that we deny it is not enough for them! I suppose that thehallways will continue to sound like a celebration of Kaisersgeburtstaguntil we have sent off the last of them. 

This morning a large, badly frightened darkey came in looking for apassport. He awaited his turn very quietly, and grew visibly more andmore apprehensive at the long series of questions asked of the peopleahead of him. When he moved up to the desk, the first question was:

"Where do you want to go?"

"Jes as fur as the stature of Libbuty. "

"Are you an American citizen?"

"Me? Lawd bless yuh! No, I ain't nuthin' but a plain ole Baltimoh coon. "

Then they gave him the usual blank to fill out. One of the questions onit was:

"Why do you desire to return to the United States?"

Without any hesitation he wrote:

"I am very much interested in my home at the present time. "

Everybody here is intensely curious as to what has become of the Britisharmy; the most generally accepted story is that troops have been landedat Calais, Dunkirk and Ostend, but although this is generally believed, there seems to be absolutely no official confirmation of it. Everyoneseems to take it for granted that the British will turn up in good formwhen the right time comes, and that when they do turn up, it will have agood effect. If they can get to the scene of hostilities without everybodyknowing about it, it increases by just so much their chances of successand anyone that knows anything at all is keeping mum and hoping that noBritish soldier will stumble over a chair and make a noise and give awaythe line of march. 

Our letters from London indicate intense satisfaction with the appointmentof Kitchener and confidence that he will get a maximum of service out ofthe forces at his command. 

We have been looking from one moment to another for news of a big navalengagement, but suppose the British Navy is somewhere waiting for a chanceto strike. 

Colonel Fairholme, the British Military Attaché, has made a number oftrips to the front and reports that the morale of the Belgian troops isexcellent, that the organisation is moving like clockwork, and, as heexpresses it, that "every man has his tail up. "

This evening I went over to the British Legation to see the Colonel, andlearn whatever news he had that he could give me. There was a greatscurrying of servants and the porter was not to be found in the chancery. The door to Grant-Watson's room was ajar, so I tapped, and, on beingbade in a gruff voice to "Come in, " walked into the presence of aBritish officer in field uniform, writing at Webber's desk. He was dustyand unshaven, and had evidently come in from a long ride. I promptlybacked out with apologies and was hustled out of the place by Kidston, who came running out from the Minister's office. I asked him if the restof the army was hidden about the chancery, and his only reply was totell me to run along and find the navy, which they themselves had notbeen able to locate. They evidently have all they need to know about thewhereabouts of the army, but have succeeded in keeping it dark. 

C. M. Came over to the Legation this afternoon to get some books for hermother. We fixed her up and put her in her car, when she announced thaton the way over she had been arrested and taken to the police station asa German. People are pointing out spies on the street, and anybody thatis blond and rosy-cheeked stands a fine show of being arrested everytime he goes out. She had impressed this car with a suspected number andpaid for it by being made into a jail bird. 

My day's work began with a visit to the German Legation. The Governmentasked me to secure and return the number for the automobile of vonStumm, the German Counselor. I had his machine put in the Legation theday after he left, although he had offered it to me. I presented myselfat the door of the Legation with the note from the Foreign Office, asking for the number, but was refused admittance by the GardesCiviques. They were very nice, but stated that they had the strictestorders not to let anybody come in or out, and that they had notdiscretionary powers. At a visit at the Foreign Office later in the day, I told of my experience and asked that I be furnished by the militaryauthorities with a _laisser-passer_ which would enable me to enter theLegation whenever I so desire. This afternoon I received a formidabledocument from the Military Governor which gives me free passage--so faras I can make out--to enter the Legation in any way save by telephone ortelegraph. I shall go around to-morrow and rub it in on the GardesCiviques. 

The question of passes has been changed and made more strict each day, and has got to be a sort of joke. I first used my card, that wasdeclared insufficient almost from the first. Then I tried my _permis decirculation_, which was issued to allow me to get into the railwaystations without paying. That was good for a day or so. Then I tried mypassport (as a bearer of despatches), and that got me through once ortwice. Then the Minister for Foreign Affairs gave me his personal cardwith a _laisser-passer_ in his own hand, but that was soon turned downon the ground that the military authorities are in control and the civilauthorities cannot grant passes. Finally the Government has got out aspecial form of _laisser-passer_ for the diplomats, and it may prove tobe good--although it is not signed by the military authorities. I havetaken the precaution of keeping all the aforementioned documents andsome others on my person, and am curious to see how soon I shall have tohave some other. The Garde Civique is no longer content with holding upthe car every few blocks and examining the _pièce d'identité_ of thechauffeur; they must now be satisfied as to the bona fides of eachpassenger. Doing some errands around town this afternoon I was held upand looked over eleven times. I now pull out all the documents I own andhand out the bunch each time I am stopped. The Garde then, in mostcases, treats the matter rather humorously, and the next time I passlets me go on without going through the whole performance again. Infront of the German Legation, however, which we nearly always pass onour way to or from town, we are invariably held up and looked intoseriously. I know most of the people on the different shifts by thistime and wish them well each time they look at the well-rememberedpapers. I shall keep the credentials and any others that may eventuallybe added to them, and perhaps some day I shall be able to paper a roomwith them. 

In the course of the morning there were several matters of interestwhich made it necessary for me to go to the Foreign Office. All theirmessengers are now gone, and in their place there is a squad of BoyScouts on duty. I had a long conference with van der Elst, theDirector-General of the Ministry. In the course of our pow-wow it wasnecessary to send out communications to various people and despatchinstructions in regard to several small matters. Each time van der Elstwould ring, for what he calls a "scoots, " and hand him the message withspecific instructions as to just how it should be handled. The boys wereright on their toes, and take great pride in the responsibility that isgiven them. Some of them have bicycles and do the messenger work throughthe town. Those who have not, run errands in the different buildings andattend to small odd jobs. 

The Red Cross is very much in evidence. I went around to the headquartersafter my call at the Foreign Office, to make a little contribution of myown and to leave others for members of our official family. Theheadquarters is at the house of Count Jean de Mérode, the Grand Marshalof the Court. The entrance hall was filled with little tables wherewomen sat receiving contributions of money and supplies. I had to waitsome time before I could get near enough to one of the dozen or moretables, to hand in my contributions. This is the headquarters, but thereare any number of branch offices, and they are said to be equally busy. The society has been quite overcome by the way people have come forwardwith gifts, and they have been almost unable to get enough peopletogether to handle them as they come in. The big cafés down-town nearlyall have signs out, announcing that on a certain day or days they willgive their entire receipts to the Red Cross or to one of the severalfunds gotten up to take care of those suffering directly or indirectlyfrom the war. Many of the small shops have signs out of the same sort, announcing that the entire receipts for all articles sold on a certainday will be handed to one of the funds. They must have gathered anenormous amount of money, and I don't doubt they will need it. Thewounded are being brought in in great numbers and many buildings arequite filled with them. In nearly every street there is a Red Cross flagor two, to indicate a temporary hospital in a private house or a hotelor shop, and people are stationed in the street to make motors turnaside or slow down. There are almost no motors on the street exceptthose on official business or Red Cross work; and, because of the smallamount of traffic, these few go like young cyclones, keeping theirsirens going all the time. The chauffeurs love it and swell around asmuch as they are allowed to do. I pray with ours now and then, but evenwhen I go out to the barber, he seems to believe that he is on his wayto a fire and cuts loose for all he is worth. 

Quantities of German prisoners continue to be brought here for safekeeping, and many of them are taken on down to Bruges. Among thoseremoved there for unusually safe keeping yesterday was a nephew of theEmperor. 

Judging from the stories printed in the _London Times_ which arrivedto-night, the German Government aroused great enthusiasm by playing upthe capture of Liège. The Germans evidently were led to believe they hadgained a great victory; whereas the forts, which are the only object ofthe campaign, are still intact. The city itself is undefended, and thereis no great military reason why the Belgians should not allow it to betaken. The German troops that had invested the town have not taken overthe administration, but appear to be confining themselves torequisitioning provisions and supplies, of which they are in need. TheBerlin papers made a great hurrah about the capture of the citadel, which is a purely ornamental old fort without military importance. Fromwhat they tell me, I judge that you could back an American army mule upagainst it and have him kick it down without the expense of bombardingit. It sounds well in the despatches, however. 

Eight French aeroplanes sailed over the city this afternoon, probablycoming from Namur. One of the machines landed on the aviation field atthe edge of the city, and the aviator was nearly torn to shreds byadmirers who wanted to shake him by the hand and convince him that hewas really welcome to Brussels. It is said that some of these fellowsare going to lie in wait for the Zeppelins which have been sailing overBrussels by night to terrify the population. We hear that one of theBelgian army aviators did attack a Zeppelin and put it out of business, bringing to earth and killing all the crew. He himself went to certaindeath in the attempt. 

The afternoon papers say that in Paris the name of the Rue de Berlin hasbeen changed to Rue de Liège. Here the Rue d'Allemagne has been changedto Rue de Liège and the Rue de Prusse to Rue du Général Leman, thedefender of Liège. The time abounds in _beaux gestes_ and they certainlyhave their effect on the situation. 

Kitchener says that the war may last for some time. At first it seemedto be taken for granted that it could not last long, as the financialstrain would be too great and the damage done so enormous that one sideor the other would have to yield to avoid national bankruptcy. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 11, 1914. _--Our halls have been filled with Germansand Americans, the latter in smaller numbers and the former in largercrowds than ever. They are gradually being got out of the country, however, and those who are going to remain are being induced to go tothe right authorities, so that their troubles will soon be settled to alarge extent, and they will not be coming here so much. We are gettingoff hundreds of telegrams about the whereabouts and welfare of Americansand others here and in other parts of Europe; this work alone is enoughto keep a good-sized staff working, and we have them hard at it. 

This afternoon I went over to the British Legation and saw ColonelFairholme, the military attaché, for a few minutes. He was just backfrom a trip out into the wilds with a party of British officers and wasso clearly rushed that I had not the heart to detain him, although I wasbursting with curiosity about the news he evidently had concealed abouthim. He appreciates the lenient way I have treated him, and goes out ofhis way to let me have anything that he can. 

While I was out we saw a German monoplane which sailed over the city notvery high up. The newspapers have published a clear description of thevarious aeroplanes that are engaged in the present war, so that nobodywill be foolish enough to fire at those of the allies when they come ourway. This one was clearly German, and the Garde Civique and others werefiring at it with their rifles, but without any success. Our Legationguard, which consists of about twenty-five men, banged away in a perfectfusillade, but the airman was far too high for them to have much chanceof hitting him. 

Yesterday afternoon when the German biplanes passed over the city, aBelgian officer gave chase in a monoplane, but could not catch them. Contests of this sort are more exciting to the crowd than any fancyaviation stunts that are done at exhibitions, and the whole town turnsout whenever an aeroplane is sighted. 

This morning I presented myself at the German Legation with the imposing_laisser-passer_ furnished me by the Military Governor of Brabant, butthe guard on duty at the door had not received orders to let me in andturned me down politely but definitely. I took the matter up with theForeign Office and said that I wanted it settled, so that I would nothave any more fruitless trips over there. At five an officer from theÉtat-Major of the Garde Civique came for me in a motor and took me overto the Legation, to give orders in my presence that whenever I appearedI was to be allowed to pass without argument. As I got into the motor Inoticed that the soldier who was driving the car looked at me with atwinkle in his eye, but paid no attention to him. When I took a secondlook I saw that it was G. B----, with whom I had played golf severaltimes. I am constantly being greeted by people in uniform whom I hadknown at one time or another. It is hard to recognise them in uniform. 

So far as operations in Belgium are concerned, we may not have anythingbig for some days to come; but, in the meantime, work of preparation isbeing pushed rapidly and supplies and reinforcements are being rushed tothe front. Half the shops in town are closed, and all the people areworking either in the field or taking care of the wounded or prisoners. There are said to be some eight thousand German prisoners in Belgium, and it is some work to take care of them all. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 12, 1914. _--A few minutes' gap, so I seize my pen toscratch off a line. 

Last night when I left here I rode up the Rue Bélliard on my way home. Iwas stopped in front of the German Legation by the guard which wasplaced across the street. They examined the chauffeur's papers carefullyand then looked over mine. They compared the tintype on my_laisser-passer_ with the classic lineaments of the original, and afterlooking wise, told me to move on. When we got up to the Boulevard therewas great cheering, and we came out on a thin file of French cavalry, which was on its way through town from the Gare du Midi. The crowd wasmad with enthusiasm and the soldiers, although plainly very tired, pulled their strength together every now and then to cry, "_Vive laBelgique!_" There were crowds on the Boulevards, waiting for news from_là bas_. A few French officers were going about in cabs, and each timethat one appeared the crowd went mad. The officers were smiling andsaluting, and every now and then one stood up in his place and cheeredfor Belgium. In twenty minutes or so, I saw that we could get through, so started for home and bed. 

When we got to the Porte de Namur, we heard frenzied cheering down bythe Porte Louise. The chauffeur is a regular old war horse who does notwant to miss a trick. He cast a questioning glance over his shoulder;and, catching my nod, put on full speed down the Boulevard until we cameto a solid crowd banked along the line of march of more French cavalry. The people in the crowd had bought out the nearby shops of cigars andcigarettes and chocolate and small flasks of brandy, and as each manrode by, he was loaded up with as much as he could carry. The défilé hadbeen going on for over an hour, but the enthusiasm was still boundless. All the cafés around the Porte Louise sent out waiters and waitresseswith trays of beer to meet the troops as they came into the AvenueLouise. Each man would snatch a glass of beer, swallow it as he rodealong and hand it back to others who were waiting with empty trays ahundred yards or so down the line of march. The men were evidently verytired, and it was an effort for them to show any appreciation of theirreception, but they made the effort and croaked out, "_Vive laBelgique!_" The French and British troops can have anything they want inthis country. They will be lucky, though, if they escape without acuteindigestion. 

Yesterday afternoon, as I was coming out of the chancery of the BritishLegation, a little cockney messenger in uniform came snorting into thecourt on a motor-cycle. As he got off he began describing hisexperiences, and wound up his story of triumphant progress--"And when Igot to the Boulevards I ran down a blighter on a bicycle and the crowdgave me an ovation!"

More troubles to-day about the German Legation. The État-Major gaveorders that nobody but I should be allowed to enter. The laymen who havethe onerous duty of protecting the Legation held a council of war, anddecided that this precluded them from allowing food to go in; so whenthe waitress from the Grand Veneur with the lunch of the crowd insidecame along, she was turned back and told I should have to go with her. Iwent around to the Legation and fixed it up with the guard. A fewminutes ago the waitress came back with word that more bread and butterwas wanted, but that the guard had changed and that she was again barredout. Monsieur de Leval and I went around again and fortunately foundsome one from the État-Major who was there for inspection. He promisedto get proper orders issued and now we hope that we shall not be obligedto take in every bite under convoy. 

There are ominous reports to-day of a tremendous German advance in thisdirection, and it is generally believed that there will be a bigengagement soon near Haelen, which is on the way from Liège toTirlemont. Communications are cut, so I don't quite see where all thenews comes from. 

 * * * * *

_After dinner. _--News sounds better to-night. Although there is nothingvery definite, the impression is that the Belgians have come outvictorious to-day in an engagement near Tirlemont. I hope to get somenews later in the evening. 

During a lull in the proceedings this afternoon, I got in Blount's carand went out to Brooks, to see his horses and arrange to have him sendthem in for our use every afternoon. He came over here a few months agoto spend the rest of his life in peace and quiet. It looks as though hewouldn't get much of either. 

The Avenue de Tervueren, a broad boulevard with a parkway down thecentre, is the most direct way into town from the scene of the fighting, and there has been a general belief that the Germans might rush a forceinto town in motors that way. In order to be ready for anything of thesort, a barricade has been made of heavy tram cars placed at rightangles across the road, so that they do not absolutely stop traffic, but compel motors to slow down and pick their way, thus:

[Illustration

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It is close work getting through, and can only be done at a snail'space. 

The latest news we have is that the nearest large German force is just38 miles away from Brussels. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 13, 1914. _--Last night, after dining late, I went outto find my friend, Colonel Fairholme, and see if he had any news. He hadjust finished his day's work and wanted some air. Fortunately I had thecar along and so took him out for a spin to the end of the AvenueLouise. We walked back, followed by the car, and had a nightcap at thePorte de Namur. 

The Colonel has been going to Louvain every day, to visit the GeneralStaff and report to the King as the military representative of an ally. The first time he arrived in a motor with Gen. De Selliers deMoranville, the Chief of Staff. As they drew into the square in front ofthe headquarters, they saw that everything was in confusion and a crowdwas gathered to watch arrivals and departures. When their car stopped, alarge thug, mistaking him for a German officer, reached in and dealt hima smashing blow on the mouth with his fist, calling him a "_sal alboche_"by way of good measure. He had to go in and report to the King, streamingwith blood--a pleasant beginning. He is just getting back to a point wherehe can eat with ease and comfort. Life will be easier for some of theattachés when people get used to khaki uniforms and learn that some do notcover Germans. 

The day the General Staff left for the front, the Colonel went to seethem off. He was called by one of the high officers who wanted to talkto him, and was persuaded to get on the train and ride as far as theGare du Luxembourg, sending his car through town to meet him there. Wordcame that the King wanted to see the Chief of Staff, so he asked theColonel to take him to the Palace. When the crowd saw a British officerin uniform and decorations come out of the station accompanied by theChief of Staff and two aides, they decided that it was theCommander-in-Chief of the British army who was arriving and gave him awonderful ovation. Even the papers published it as authentic. He wastremendously fussed at the idea of sailing under false colors, but therest of us have got some amusement out of it. 

Stories are coming in here about the doings of the German troops. According to reports they came into Hasselt and took the money in thetown treasury and the local bank--some two and a half millionsaltogether. The story, whether true or not, has caused a great deal ofill feeling here. There is another story that the commanding officer ofone of the forts around Liège was summoned to parley with a white flag. When he climbed on top of his turret, he was shot through both legs andonly saved by his men pulling him to cover. Of course there are always agreat many stories of this sort scattered broadcast at the beginning ofevery war, but in this instance they seem to be generally believed andare doing the Germans no good at all. 

Mlle. D----, one of our stenographers, has a brother in the French army. She has not heard a word from him since the war began, and had no ideawhere he was. Yesterday a small detachment of French cavalry came alongthe street. She ran out, called to one of them that her brother was inthe ----, and asked where it was. They told her it had not yet been inaction and she has been walking on air ever since. But she could nottelegraph the good news to her family, for fear of betraying militarymovements. 

Roger de Leval, the 8-year-old son of our friend, practically broke offdiplomatic relations with his father and mother because he was not allowedto be a Boy Scout. His father was at the Legation, his mother at the RedCross, and he had to stay at home with his governess. He felt so badlyabout it that we had Monsieur de Leval register him as a B. S. , and havehim assigned to special duty at the Legation. He attends in full uniformand carries messages and papers from my room to the other offices and viceversa. When we go out he rides on the box with the chauffeur and salutesall the officers we pass. They are used to it now and return the salutesvery gravely. The youngster now feels that he is really doing something, but is outraged because we go along. He wants to undertake some of thebig missions alone. 

Princesse Charles de Ligne was in this morning. Her son, Prince Henri, head of that branch of the house, has enlisted as a private in theaviation corps. There seemed to be no way for him to have a commissionat once, so he put his star of the Legion of Honor on his private'suniform and was off to the front yesterday. That's the spirit. 

Comtesse d'A---- was at their home in the Grand Duchy when war brokeout. No news had been received from her, and her husband was worriedsick. We got a message through via The Hague and got word back thismorning that she was safe and well. I went up to tell him the good news. He was presiding over some sort of committee meeting, and the maid saidI could not see him. I insisted that she should announce me and aftersome argument she did. As the door opened, the buzz subsided and sheannounced: "_Monsieur le Secrétaire de la Légation d'Amérique_. " Therewas a terrible cry of fear and the old Count came running out white as asheet. Before he had come in sight I called out, "_Les nouvelles sontbonnes!_" The old chap collapsed on my shoulder and cried like a baby, saying over and over: "_J'étais si inquiet: j'étais si inquiet!_" Hesoon pulled himself together and showed me out to the car with thehonours of war. We send and receive hundreds of telegrams of inquiry andshoot them through in a perfectly routine way. It is only now and thenthat we come to a realising sense of the human side of it all. 

This afternoon I went over and made inquiry as to the well-being ofthose who are cooped up in the German Legation. They are getting alongperfectly well, but are consumed with curiosity as to the progress ofthe war. The Government has not allowed them to have any letters ornewspapers, and they are completely in the dark as to what is going on. I felt like a brute to refuse them, but could not very well do anythingagainst the wishes of the Government. They were decent enough not toembarrass me by insisting, which made it harder to refuse. The son ofHofrath Grabowsky, the Chancellor of the Legation, is Secretary of theGerman Consulate at Antwerp. He came down here to say good-bye to hisfather the day war was declared, and lingered so long that he was coopedup with the others. He is liable for military service in Germany, andhaving left his post at Antwerp at such a time, he must face a courtmartial whenever he does get home. There are five or six people there, including the wife of the old Hofrath, who are firmly convinced thatthey will all be murdered in their beds. It is my daily job to comfortthem and assure them that nobody now here is giving any thought to them. 

Last night I dined with Colonel Fairholme and Kidston, the FirstSecretary of the Legation. We went to the usually crowded terrace of thePalace Hotel, where we had no difficulty in getting a table in the bestpart of the balcony. The few other diners were nearly all colleagues orofficers. Military motors and motor-cycles came and went, and orderliesdashed up on horseback and delivered messages; it looked like war. 

The proprietor of the hotel, who has given one hundred thousand francsto the Red Cross, rolled up in his motor from a trip to the front andgot out with an armful of Prussian helmets and caps, which he hadcollected. A crowd gathered round the motor and displayed as muchpleasure as though he had brought in a whole German Army corps. Thenovelty of these souvenirs has not yet worn off. 

Women with big tin boxes came by every few minutes to collect for theRed Cross or some other fund. Finally the Colonel protested, and askedif there was no way of buying immunity. That was quickly arranged bygiving up five francs, in return for which we were given tags ofimmunity. Dozens of collectors came by during the evening, but ourostentatiously displayed tags saved us. 

We ate at our leisure--out of doors--the first unhurried and unharriedmeal I have had for days, and then got back to the Legation. 

This afternoon the Minister and I went over to see Sir Francis Villiers, the British Minister, and spent half an hour with him. He is evidentlyall ready to make a quick get-away whenever it looks as though theGermans would come to Brussels. A number of the other diplomats are alsoprepared to depart. Those who are accredited at The Hague will probablygo there, and the others will go to Antwerp. We are too busy here toenjoy the luxury of spending a month undergoing a siege, so no matterwhat happens, we shall probably not go along. The Minister and I shalltake turns from time to time, going up to pay our respects. 

Having some things to talk over, the Minister and I went for a driveafter our visit, and it was well we did, for when we got back, we foundthe hall filled with callers. As the tourists and the Germans leave, thewar correspondents begin to come in, and in a few days we shall probablyhave the place full of them. I heard to-day that there were 200 of themin London, and that most of them want to come on here. 

Maxwell, the British correspondent, told me this afternoon that helooked for a big engagement at Diest to-morrow or the day after. He hasbeen down through the fighting zone ever since the trouble began, andprobably knows more about pending operations than any other civilian. 

While I was writing, Z---- came in, suffering from a bad case of panic. He announced as he burst into my office that the Germans were within 20kilometers of Brussels and were going to occupy the city this evening. He was fairly trembling, but got indignant because I denied it, havingjust talked with Colonel Fairholme and with Maxwell, both of whom had nomore than come back from the front. The fact that it had been publishedin the _Soir_ was enough for him, and although the news had made himnervous, he hated to have his perfectly good sensation spoiled. 

The authorities, so as to be prepared for any eventuality, have thisevening published a communiqué to impress upon the population thenecessity for abstaining from any participation in the hostilities incase of an occupation. It advises everybody to stay indoors and avoidany words or actions that might give an excuse for measures againstnon-combatants. 

 * * * * *

_August 15th. _--Last night I dined with the Colonel, Grant-Watson, andKidston at the Palace. I was looking forward to a lot of interestingtalk, as the Colonel had just come from the front. Just as we weresettling down to our conversational Marathon, up walked ----, the---- Chargé and bade himself to dine with us. He is strongly pro-Germanin his sympathies, and, of course, that put a complete damper onconversation. We talked about everything on earth save the one thing wewere interested in, and sat tight in the hope that he would move on. Notonly did he stay, but after a time the ---- First Secretary came andjoined us, and we gave up in despair. The only result of the evening wasthat I gathered the impression that there is a good deal of apprehensionon the part of the allies as to the result of the next big battle, whichmay occur any day now. The Germans are undoubtedly pretty near now, perhaps a good deal nearer than we know. Just before dinner the WarOffice announced that there would be no further official communiqués asto the operations. That looks as though they were battening down thehatches for the next big engagement. 

Yesterday's papers announced France's declaration of war againstAustria. This morning comes the news that Montenegro has also declaredher intention of wiping Austria off the map. Our daily query nowis--"Who has declared war to-day?"

Every minute we are not hammering away at our work, we sit around andtalk of the latest developments. These things make such an impressionthat I can quite understand old veterans boring everybody to death withreminiscences. I see some forty years from now that people will besaying: "I don't want to let old man Gibson get hold of me and tell meall about the war of 1914!"

This morning I received a telegram from Richard Harding Davis, who wantsto join the Belgian forces. We are trying to arrange it this morning, and I expect to see him any day now. 

We are going to have a lot of newspaper men in our midst. I met two moreof them last night. None of them who have so far appeared speak anylanguage but English, but they are all quite confident that they can getall the news. I look next for Palmer and Jimmy Hare and the rest of thecrowd. 

Maxwell, the _Telegraph_ correspondent, yesterday showed me a photographof a French bulldog that has been doing good service at Liège. Hismaster, who is an officer in one of the forts, fastens messages in hiscollar and shoves him out onto the glacis. The puppy makes a blue streakfor home and, as he is always sent at night, has managed so far to avoidthe Germans. His mistress brings him back to the edge of town and startshim back for the fort. 

The Belgian troops have so far had to dam the flood of Germans withlittle or no help from the allies. The Kaiser expected, so far as we canmake out, to sweep through Belgium with little opposition and befighting in France in three days! The Belgians have knocked his scheduleout by twelve days already, and there is no telling how much longer theymay hold out. "My military advisers" tell me that in view of the greatnecessity for a quick campaign in France, so as to get the army back intime to head off the Russian flood when it begins to pour over thenorthern frontier, the loss of this much time is equivalent to the lossof the first great battle. The moral effect is also tremendous. 

The Minister to-day had a card from Omer which began: "_J'ai l'honneurde faire savoir a Votre Excellence que je suis encore toujours vivant!_"_Encore toujours_ sounds as though he were pretty emphatically alive. Wewere all relieved to hear from him. 

Villalobar, the Spanish Minister, came in after dinner--just to visit. His household is greatly upset. His cook and three footmen have gone tothe war. He apologised for not inviting us to dine during thesedepressing days, but said he could not, as his cook was a Lucretia diBorgia. He is confident that the war is going to knock Brussels lifeinto a cocked hat this winter. So many of the families will be inmourning, and so much poverty will come as a result of the war. Lifegoes on so normally now, save for the little annoyances of living undermartial law, that it is hard to realise that such great changes areimminent. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 16, 1914. _--This morning I walked out of my office andbumped into Frederick Palmer. I had no idea he was so near. Two weeksago he was in Vera Cruz, but made a bee-line for Brussels at the firstnews of impending war. In the breathing spaces during the morning I gotin a little visiting with him. He stayed to lunch at the Legation and sodid I. In the afternoon I took him to the Foreign Office and the WarOffice and the Gendarmerie, and got him outfitted with passes, so thathe can make a try to get towards the front. As a measure of precaution Iadded another _laisser-passer_ to my collection, with a beautifulphotograph on it. The collection grows every day. 

I went to the Palace to dine with Palmer and Blount. We had hardly gotseated when in walked Richard Harding Davis and Gerald Morgan, andjoined us. I had not expected Davis here so soon, but here he is. He wasimmaculate in dinner jacket and white linen, for war does not interferewith his dressing. 

While we were dining, a lot of motors came by filled with Britishofficers. There was a big crowd in the square, and they went crazy withenthusiasm, cheering until the windows rattled. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 18, 1914. _--At ten in the morning I started withFrederick Palmer and Blount in the latter's car, to see whether we couldget a little way out of town and get a glimpse of what was going on. Wewere provided with _laisser-passers_ and passports and all sorts ofcredentials, but as a strict prohibition against sightseers has beenenforced for some days, we rather doubted whether we should be able toget farther than the edge of town. Before we got back we had gone morethan a hundred kilometers through the heart of things and saw a greatdeal more than anybody should be allowed to see. We got back to townabout eight o'clock, thoroughly tired and with eyes filled with dust andcinders. 

Part way out the avenue we were hailed by a soldier, who asked us for alift as far as Tervueren. He climbed into the car beside me and rodeout. The Forêt de Soignes was mournful. Quatre Bras, where the cafés areusually filled with a good-sized crowd of bourgeois, was deserted andempty. The shutters were up and the proprietors evidently gone. TheMinister's house, near by, was closed. The gate was locked and thegardener's dog was the only living thing in sight. We passed our GolfClub a little farther on toward Tervueren. The old château is closed, the garden is growing rank, and the rose-bushes that were kept soscrupulously plucked and trim, were heavy with dead roses. The grass washigh on the lawns; weeds were springing up on the fine tennis courts. The gardeners and other servants have all been called to the colours. Most of the members are also at the front, shoulder to shoulder with theservants. A few caddies were sitting mournfully on the grass and greetedus solemnly and without enthusiasm. These deserted places are in someways more dreadful than the real horrors at the front. At least there islife and activity at the front. 

Before we got out of town the guards began stopping us, and we were heldup every few minutes until we got back to town at night. Sometimes theposts were a kilometer or even two kilometers apart. Sometimes we wereheld up every fifty yards. Sometimes the posts were regulars, sometimesGardes Civiques; often hastily assembled civilians, mostly too old ortoo young for more active service. They had no uniforms, but onlyrifles, caps, and brassards to distinguish them as men in authority. Insome places the men formed a solid rank across the road. In others theysat by the roadside and came out only when we hove in sight. Our_laisser-passers_ were carefully examined each time we were stopped, even by many of the guards who did not understand a word of French, andstrangely enough, our papers were made out in only the one language. They could, at least, understand our photographs and took the rest forgranted. 

When we got to the first outpost at Tervueren, the guard waved ourpapers aside and demanded the password. Then our soldier passengerleaned across in front of Blount and whispered "_Belgique_. " That gotus through everything until midday, when the word changed. 

From Tervueren on we began to realise that there was really a war inprogress. All was preparation. We passed long trains of motor truckscarrying provisions to the front. Supply depots were planted along theway. Officers dashed by in motors. Small detachments of cavalry, infantry and artillery pounded along the road toward Louvain. A littleway out we passed a company of scouts on bicycles. They are doing goodwork, and have kept wonderfully fresh. In this part of the countryeverybody looked tense and anxious and hurried. Nearer the front theywere more calm. 

Most of the groups we passed mistook our flag for a British standard andcheered with a good will. Once in a while somebody who recognised theflag would give it a cheer on its own account, and we got a smileeverywhere. 

All the farm houses along the road were either already abandoned orprepared for instant flight. In some places the reaping had alreadybegun, only to be abandoned. In others the crop stood ripe, waiting forthe reapers that may never come. The sight of these poor peasantsfleeing like hunted beasts and their empty houses or their rotting cropswere the worst part of the day. It is a shame that those responsible forall this misery cannot be made to pay the penalty--and they never can, no matter what is done to them. 

Louvain is the headquarters of the King and his État-Major. The King isCommander-in-Chief of the Allied Forces operating in Belgium, and isapparently proving to be very much of a soldier. The town is completelyoccupied and troops line the streets, stopping all motors and inspectingpapers, then telling you which way you can go. We were the only civilianson the road all day, except the Red Cross people. The big square wascompletely barred off from general traffic and was surrounded withgrenadiers. We got through the town and stopped at the only café we couldfind open, where we had a bottle of mineral water and talked over whatwe should do next. 

In Louvain there is an American theological seminary. We had had somecorrespondence with Monseigneur de Becker, its Rector, as to what heshould do to protect the institution. At our suggestion he hadestablished a Red Cross Hospital and had hoisted a big American flag, but still he was not altogether easy in his mind. I called on him anddid my level best to reassure him, on the ground that the Germans werecertainly not making war on seminaries or priests, and that if theGermans reached Louvain, all he had to do was to stay peacefully at homeand wait for quiet to be restored. Most of his students were gone andsome of the faculty had followed them, so his chief concern was for thelibrary and other treasures. My arguments did not seem to have very muchweight, but I left with a promise to look in again at the firstopportunity and to respond to any call the Rector might make. 

From the seminary we drove out the Tirlemont road, to see if we couldget to that little town and see some of the fighting that was known tobe going on. At the edge of the town we came to a barricade of carts, road-rollers and cobble stones, where we were courteously but firmlyturned back. Everybody was anxious to make it as nice as possible forus, and one of the bright boys was brought forward to tell us inEnglish, so as to be more convincing. He smiled deprecatingly, and said:"Verreh bad. Verreh sorreh. Oui mus' mak our office, not?" So we turnedand went back to town. They had told us that _nobody_ could go beyondthe barricade without an order from the _Commandant de Place_ at Louvain. On the way back we decided that we could at least try, so we huntedthrough the town until we found the headquarters of the Commandant. A fierce-looking sergeant was sitting at a table near the door, hearingrequests for visés on _laisser-passers_. Everybody was begging for avisé on one pretext or another, and most of them were being turned down. I decided to try a play of confidence, so took our three cards andwalked up to his table, as though there could be no possible doubt ofhis doing what I wanted. I threw our three _laisser-passers_ down infront of him, and said in a business-like tone: "_Trois visés pourTirlemont, S. V. P. _" My man looked up in mild surprise, viséed the threepapers without a word and handed them back in less time than it takes totell it. We sailed back to the barricade in high feather, astonished theguard with our visé, and plowed along the road, weaving in and out amongammunition wagons, artillery caissons, infantry, cavalry, bicyclists--allin a dense cloud of dust. Troops were everywhere in small numbers. Machine guns, covered with shrubbery, were thick on the road and in thewoods. There was a decidedly hectic movement toward the front, and itwas being carried out at high speed without confusion or disorder. Itwas a sight to remember. All along the road we were cheered both asAmericans and in the belief that we were British. Whenever we werestopped at a barricade to have our papers examined, the soldiers crowdedaround the car and asked for news from other parts of the field, andeverybody was wild for newspapers. Unfortunately we had only a couplethat had been left in the car by accident in the morning. If we had onlythought a little, we could have taken out a cartful of papers and givenpleasure to hundreds. 

The barricades were more numerous as we drew nearer the town. About twomiles out we were stopped dead. Fighting was going on just ahead, betweenus and the town, and the order had been given out that _nobody_ shouldpass. That applied to military and civilians alike, so we could notcomplain, and came back to Louvain, rejoicing that we had been able toget so far. 

We hunted up our little café and ate our sandwiches at a table on thesidewalk, letting the house profit to the extent of three glasses ofbeer. We were hardly seated when a hush fell on the people sitting near. The proprietor was summoned and a whispered conversation ensued betweenhim and a bewhiskered old man three tables away. Then Mr. Proprietorsauntered over our way with the exaggerated carelessness of a stagedetective. He stood near us for a minute or two, apparently very muchinterested in nothing at all. Then he went back, reported to "Whiskers"and the buzz of conversation began again as though nothing had happened. After a bit the proprietor came over again, welcomed us to the city, asked us a lot of questions about ourselves, and finally confided to usthat we had been pointed out as Germans and that he had listened to uscarefully and discovered that we were nothing of the sort. "_J'ai trèsbonne oreille pour les langues_, " he said. Of course we were greatlysurprised to learn that we had been under observation. Think of Germanspies within 200 yards of the headquarters of the General Staff! (Andyet they have caught them that near. ) Every active citizen now considershimself a policeman on special duty to catch spies, and lots of peoplesuffer from it. I was just as glad the proprietor had not denounced usas spies, as the populace has a quite understandable distaste for them. I was glad the bright café proprietor could distinguish our lingo fromGerman. 

After lunch we went down to the headquarters of the General Staff, tosee if we needed any more visés. We did not, but we got a sight of theheadquarters with officers in all sorts of uniforms coming and going. The square was full of staff autos. The beautiful carved Hôtel de Villeis the headquarters. As we walked by, a British Major-General came downthe steps, returned everybody's salutes and rolled away--a fine gauntold type with white hair and moustache--the sort you read about in storybooks. 

After lunch we found that there was no use in trying to get to Tirlemont, so gave that up, and inquired about the road to Diest. Everybody who wasin any sort of position to know told us we could not get more than a fewkilometers along the road, and that as Uhlans were prowling in thatneighbourhood, we might be potted at from the woods or even carried off. On the strength of that we decided to try that road, feeling fairlyconfident that the worst that could happen to us would be to be turnedback. 

As we drew out along the road, the traffic got steadily heavier. Motorsof all sorts--beautifully finished limousines filled with boxes ofammunition or sacks of food, carriages piled high with raw meat andcases of biscuit. Even dog-carts in large numbers, with the good Belgiandogs straining away at the traces with a good will, and barking withexcitement. They seemed to have the fever and enthusiasm of the men andevery one was pulling with all his strength. In some places we saw menpushing heavily-laden wheelbarrows, with one or two dogs pulling infront. 

From Louvain on most of the barricades were mined. We could see clearlyas we passed where the mines were planted. The battery jars were underthe shelter of the barricade and the wire disappeared into someneighbouring wood or field. Earthworks were planted in the fields allalong the lines, good, effective, well-concealed intrenchments thatwould give lots of trouble to an attacking force. There was one placewhere an important intrenchment was placed in a field of hay. Thebreastworks were carefully covered with hay and the men had it tiedaround their hats in such a way as to conceal them almost completely. This war is evidently going to be fought with some attention to detail, and with resourcefulness. 

Diest itself we reached at about half past three, after having beennearly turned back six or seven times. We were the only civilians thathad turned up all day, and although our papers seemed to be all rightand we could give a good account of ourselves, our mere presence wasconsidered so remarkable that a good many of the outposts were inclinedto turn us back. By virtue of our good arguments and our equally goodlooks, however, we did manage to get through to the town itself. 

Diest is an old town which figures a good deal in the combats of themiddle ages. It has a fine old church, quite large, a good Hôtel deVille, and clean, Dutch-looking streets, with canals here and there. Thewhole town is surrounded with high earthworks, which constituted thefortifications, which were part of the line of forts erected by theallies after Waterloo, as a line of defence against French aggression. These forts were so numerous that Belgium in her younger days had notsufficient men to garrison them. A number of them were abandoned, finally leaving Antwerp, Liège and Namur to bear the burden. Brialmont, who built the great ring forts at Liège, wanted to build modernfortifications at Diest, but could not get those holding thepurse-strings to see things his way. 

Diest was attacked by Germans about three days ago. They wanted to takethe old fortifications so as to control the road and use the place as abase of operations. It could hardly be called a big battle, but was moreprobably in the nature of a reconnaissance in force with four or fiveregiments of cavalry. This part of Belgium is the only place on thewhole field of operations where cavalry can be used and they arecertainly using it with a liberal hand, probably in attempt to feel outthe country and locate the main body of opposing troops. They have gotinto a lot of trouble so far, and I am sure they have not yet locatedthe main bodies of the allied armies. 

The shops were all closed and most of the people were sitting on thesidewalk waiting for something to turn up. Some of them had evidentlybeen to America, and we had an ovation all the way in. The Grande Placewas filled with motors and motor trucks, this evidently being a supplydepôt. We had some of the local mineral water and talked with the peoplewho gathered round for a look at the _Angliches_. 

They were all ready for anything that might come, particularlyPrussians. In the old days the Uhlans spread terror wherever theyappeared, to burn and shoot and plunder. Now they seem to arouse onlyrage and a determination to fight to the last breath. There was a littlepopping to the north and a general scurry to find out what was up. Wejumped in the car and made good time through the crowded, crooked littlestreets to the fortifications. We were too late, however, to see thereal row. Some Uhlans had strayed right up to the edge of town and hadbeen surprised by a few men on the earthworks. There were no fatalities, but two wounded Germans were brought into town in a motor. They werepicked up without loss of time and transported to the nearest Red Crosshospital. 

Cursing our luck we started off to Haelen for a look at thebattlefields. Prussian cavalry made an attack there the same day theyattacked Diest, and their losses were pretty bad. 

At one of the barricades we found people with Prussian lances, caps, haversacks, etc. , which they were perfectly willing to sell. Palmer wasequally keen to buy, and he looked over the junk offered, while some twohundred soldiers gathered around to help and criticise. I urged Palmerto refrain, in the hope of finding some things ourselves on thebattlefield. He scoffed at the idea, however. He is, of course, an oldveteran among the war correspondents, and knew what he was about. Hesaid he had let slip any number of opportunities to get good things, inthe hope of finding something himself, but there was nothing doing whenhe got to the field. We bowed to his superior knowledge and experience, and let him hand over an English sovereign for a long Prussian lance. Idecided to do my buying on the way home if I could find nothing myself. 

The forward movement of troops seemed to be headed toward Diest, for ourroad was much more free from traffic. We got into Haelen in short orderand spent a most interesting half hour, talking to the officer incommand of the village. As we came through the village we saw the effectof rifle fire and the work of machine guns on the walls of the houses. Some of them had been hit in the upper story with shrapnel and werepretty badly battered up. The village must have been quite unpleasant asa place of residence while the row was on. The commanding officer, amajor, seemed glad to find some one to talk to, and we stretched ourlegs for half an hour or so in front of his headquarters and let himtell us all about what had happened. He was tense with rage against theGermans, whom he accused of all sorts of barbarous practices, and whomhe announced the allies must sweep from the earth. He told us that onlya few hours before a couple of Uhlans had appeared in a field a fewhundred yards from where we were standing, had fired on two peasantwomen working there, and then galloped off. Everywhere we went we heardstories of peaceful peasants being fired on. It seems hard to believe, but the stories are terribly persistent. There may be some sniping bythe non-combatant population, but the authorities are doing everythingthey can to prevent it, by requiring them to give up their arms andpointing out the danger of reprisals. 

Before we moved on, our officer presented me with a Prussian lance hehad picked up on the battlefield near Haelen. We got careful directionsfrom him for finding the battlefield and set off for Loxbergen, wherethe fight had taken place the day before. The run was about fourkilometers through little farms, where the houses had been set on fireby shrapnel and were still burning. The poor peasants were wanderingaround in the ruins, trying to save odds and ends from the wreck, butthere was practically nothing left. Of course they had had to flee fortheir lives when the houses were shelled, and pretty much everything wasburned before they could safely venture back to their homes. 

We had no difficulty in locating the field of battle when we reached it. The ground was strewn with lances and arms of all sorts, haversacks, saddle bags, trumpets, helmets and other things that had been left onthe ground after the battle. There were a few villagers prowling around, picking things up, but there were enough for everybody, so we got outand gathered about fifteen Prussian lances, some helmets and other oddsand ends that would serve as souvenirs for our friends in Brussels. Aseverybody took us for English, they were inclined to be very friendly, and we were given several choice trophies to bring back. While we wereon the field, a German aeroplane came soaring down close to us andstartled us with the sharp crackling of its motor. It took a good lookat us and then went its way. A little farther along, some Belgian troopsfired at the aeroplane, but evidently went wide of their mark, for itwent unconcernedly homeward. We wandered through the ruins of some oldfarms and sized up pretty well what must have happened. The Germans hadevidently come up from the south and occupied some of the farmhousesalong the road. The Belgians had come down from the north and openedfire on the houses with rapid-fire guns, for the walls were riddled withsmall holes and chipped with rifle fire. Then shrapnel had been broughtinto play, to set the houses on fire and bring the German troops outinto the open. Then they had charged the Belgians across an open fieldand apparently with disastrous results. Part of the ground was in haywhich had already been harvested and piled in stacks, the rest was insugar beets. The Prussians had charged across the field and had comeupon a sunken road into which they fell helter-skelter without havingtime to draw rein. We could see where the horses had fallen, how theyhad scrambled to their feet and tried with might and main to paw theirway up on the other side. The whole bank was pawed down, and the marksof hoofs were everywhere. The road was filled with lances and saddles, etc. All through the field were new-made graves. There was, of course, no time for careful burial. A shallow trench was dug every little way--atrench about thirty feet long and ten feet wide. Into this were dumpedindiscriminately Germans and Belgians and horses, and the earth hastilythrown over them--just enough to cover them before the summer sun got inits work. There were evidences of haste; in one place we saw the arm ofa German sergeant projecting from the ground. It is said that over threethousand men were killed in this engagement, but from the number ofgraves we saw I am convinced that this was a good deal overstated. Atany rate it was terrible enough; and when we think that this was arelatively unimportant engagement, we can form some idea of what isgoing to happen when the big encounter comes, as it will in the courseof a few days more. It is clear that the Germans were driven off withconsiderable losses, and that the Belgians still hold undisputed controlof the neighbourhood. There were a few scattered Uhlans reconnoiteringnear by, but they were not in sufficient numbers to dare to attack. 

After gathering our trophies we were ready to start for home; and it waswell we should, for it was getting rather late in the afternoon and wehad a long trip ahead of us with many delays. 

Soon after leaving Haelen, on our way back we met a corps of bicyclecarabiniers who were rolling along toward Haelen at top speed. Theofficer in command held us up and asked us for news of the country wehad covered. He seemed surprised that we had not seen any Germanforces, for he said the alarm had been sent in from Haelen and thatthere were strong forces of Belgians on the way to occupy the town andbe ready for the attack. When he had left us, we ran into one detachmentafter another of infantry and lancers coming up to occupy the littlevillage. 

When we got to the barricade at the entrance to Diest, the soldiers ofthe guard poured out and began taking our trophies out of the car. Weprotested vigorously, but not one of them could talk anything butWalloon--and French was of no use. Finally, a corporal was resurrectedfrom somewhere and came forth with a few words of French concealed abouthis person. We used our best arguments with him, and he finally agreedto let a soldier accompany us to the town hall and see what would bedone with us there. The little chunky Walloon who had held us up at thebarrier climbed in with great joy, and away we sped. The little chap wasabout the size and shape of an egg with whopping boots, and armed to theteeth. He had never been in a car before, and was as delighted as achild. By carefully piecing words together through their resemblance toGerman, we managed to have quite a conversation; and by the time we gotto the Grande Place we were comrades in arms. I fed him on cigars andchocolate, and he was ready to plead our cause. As we came through thestreets of the town, people began to spot what was in the car and cheerswere raised all along the line. When we got to the Hôtel de Ville, thetroops had to come out to keep back the curious crowd, while we went into inquire of the officer in command as to whether we could keep oursouvenirs. He was a Major, a very courteous and patient man, whoexplained that he had the strictest orders not to let anything of thesort be carried away to Brussels. We bowed gracefully to the inevitable, and placed our relics on a huge pile in front of the Hôtel de Ville. Evidently many others had met the same fate, for the pile containedenough trophies to equip a regiment. The Major and an old fightingpriest came out and commiserated with us on our hard luck, but theircommiseration was not strong enough to cause them to depart from theirinstructions. 

The Major told us that they had in the Hôtel de Ville the regimentalstandard of the Death's Head Hussars. They are keeping it there, althoughit would probably be a great deal safer in Brussels. Unfortunately theroom was locked, and the officer who had the key had gone, so we couldnot look upon it with our own eyes. 

Heading out of town, a young infantryman held us up and asked for alift. He turned out to be the son of the President of the Court ofAppeals at Charleroi. He was a delicate looking chap with lots of nerve, but little strength. His heavy infantry boots looked doubly heavy onhim, and he was evidently in a bad way from fatigue. He had to rejoinhis regiment which was twelve miles along the road from Diest, so wewere able to give him quite a boost. He asked me to get word to hisfather that he wanted to be given a place as chauffeur or aviator, andin any other place that would not require so much foot work. There mustbe a lot of this sort. We finally landed him in the bosom of his companyand waved him a good-bye. 

By this time it was twilight, and the precautions of the guards wereredoubled. A short way out from Louvain, a little Walloon stepped outfrom behind a tree about a hundred yards in front of us and barred theway excitedly. We were going pretty fast and had to put on emergencybrakes, and skid up to him with a great smell of sizzling rubber. Heinformed us that papers were no good any more; that we must know thepassword, or go back to Louvain for the night. This he communicated tous in his best Walloon, which we finally understood. Blount started totell him that we did not know, as the word had been changed since weleft; but in one of my rare bursts of resourcefulness I thought to try aruse, so leaned forward very confidently and gave him the password forthe morning--"_Belgique_. " With a triumphant look, he shook his head andcountered: "No, _Haelen_!" He had shown the travellers from the outsideworld that he knew more than they did, and he was without any misgivingsas to what he had done, and let us proceed without further loss of time. We got all the way back to Tervueren with this password, which was allthat saved us from spending the night in Louvain and getting back nobodyknows when. Nearly opposite the Golf Club we were stopped with thetidings that the word was no longer good, but that if we hadsatisfactory papers we could get into town. For some reason the passwordhad evidently been changed since we left Louvain, so we got through withrare luck all along the line. 

We rolled up to the Legation a few minutes before eight o'clock, andfound that there was a great deal of anxiety about us. Cheerful peoplehad been spreading the news all day that if we fell into the hands ofthe Germans they would hold us as hostages, as they did the Bishop andMayor of Liège. They probably would if they had caught us, but they didnot catch us. 

Palmer was pleased at the amount we saw. It was by rare good luck thatwe got through the lines and we were probably the last who will get sofar. To-day all _laisser-passers_ have been canceled, and nobody can setfoot out of town to the east. It gave us a pretty good idea before wegot through as to how the troops must be disposed. I came within an aceof putting off our trip for a day or two. If I had, it would have cut meout of seeing anything. 

As usual, when I go out, the lid had blown off the Legation and theplace was in a turmoil. During the afternoon the Government had decidedto move to Antwerp and take refuge in the _enceinte_. The Queen, theroyal children and some of the members of the Government left at eighto'clock, and this morning more of them left. Most of the DiplomaticCorps have gone, and will have so much time to think of their troublesthat they will be more uncomfortable than we are. The Spanish Ministerwill stay on and give us moral support. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 19, 1914. _--Yesterday morning began with a visit fromour old friend, Richard Harding Davis, who was still quite wroth becauseI had not waited for him to arrange for his passes and go with me on mytrip. If we had, there would have been no trip, as he was not equippeduntil afternoon. After lunch he started off boldly for Namur, but gotturned back before he reached Wavre, where there had been a skirmishwith Uhlans. He was sore and disgusted. 

While he was in my office, another troop arrived composed of Irwin Cobb, John McCutcheon, the cartoonist, Lewis and a few others. Later in theday, Will Irwin came in with news that he was closely followed byothers. McCutcheon is a great friend of the Minister, and makes this hisheadquarters. 

The Minister took them out to get _laisser-passers_. While they wereaway, Sir Francis Villiers came in and showed me a telegram from theForeign Office, stating that British newspapers and news associationshad been requested to recall their correspondents, as they had alreadydone great harm by the news they had given out. He was also to requestthe Belgian Government to refuse permits of any sort to the press, andget all foreign correspondents out of the country. The BelgianGovernment realised the importance of this, and has consequently shutdown the lid tight. 

There was supposed to have been a fair-sized cavalry engagement nearCharleroi, in which six regiments of German cavalry were chewed up. Wehave no details, but it looked as though they were lured into a trap. Practically no news of the operations is leaking out. It looks as thoughKitchener had remarked, "We will go into that house where WilliamHohenzollern is breaking the furniture, and we will close the door andpull down the blinds, and when we get through, we will come out and tellpeople about it. "

Yesterday was just a day of work with a great deal of beating people onthe back and assuring them that their lives are not in danger justbecause the Court has gone to Antwerp. They all seem to be convincedthat their throats are going to be cut immediately. 

This morning we had the usual deluge of newspaper men and correspondents. The Minister went off with the Spanish Minister to call on the militaryauthorities, who are the only ones with whom we now have any relations, and while he was gone, Sir Francis came in and announced that he hadbeen ordered to leave for Antwerp and place his Legation and Britishinterests under our charge. The news is that the German cavalry inconsiderable force is marching toward Brussels. The military authoritiesare getting ready to defend the city, which is quite a futile proceeding, as the available forces are inadequate, so that the only result will bethat a lot of innocent people will be killed quite incidentally. TheGovernor expects to resist about as far as the ring of inner boulevards, which are about four blocks farther in than we are. Our street isprobably one of the principal ones by which the Germans would enter. Ahundred yards farther out there is a big railroad barricade, where astand would probably be made, so that our Legation would undoubtedly geta fair share of the wild shots from both sides. The cellar is being madeready for occupancy during the shindy, if it comes. The Burgomaster camein to say that he had a house prepared for our occupancy in the safepart of town; but we were not prepared to abandon the Legation anddeclined with sincere thanks for his thoughtfulness. 

I went over and saw Sir Francis and the Legation staff just as they wereleaving. They refused to have their plans upset by any little thing likea German advance, so had their lunch peacefully at the usual hour andthen left in motors. 

At seven o'clock Cobb, McCutcheon, and the rest of the crowd, were dueat my house, so I gathered up the Minister, the Consul-General, andBlount, and repaired thither. Davis and Morgan turned up a little late, but nothing has been heard of the rest of the crowd so far--10:30 P. M. They were to have dined here, but have not appeared or sent word. 

Crowds of people are pouring in from the east in all stages of panic, and some small forces of cavalry have also retreated into the city, looking weary and discouraged. There has evidently been a rout. Furtherthan that, we know nothing so far. 

Several of the wives of high Belgian officials have come in thisevening, having received word from their husbands to put themselvesunder our protection. There is nothing we can do for them, particularlyat this time. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 20, 1914. _--To-day has been one full of experience andthe end is not yet. Last night there was a great stir in the streets, and crowds of people and weary-looking soldiers. At the Palace Hotel Ifound the usual collection of diplomats and some other people whom Iknew, and from the crowd I elicited the fact that there had been somesort of rout of Belgian forces near Louvain, and the soldiers werefalling back. That was about all they knew. I started back to the uppertown in the hope of finding some news at the Porte de Namur. On the wayup the hill I was stopped by half a dozen groups of Gardes Civiques andsoldiers, who asked me to take them to Ghent. They were so excited andin such a hurry that they could hardly be made to realize that the carwas not liable to seizure. I took advantage of the opportunity to get alittle first-hand news, and learned that they had been driven back allalong the line and were ordered to retreat to Ghent by any means theycould find. There were no trains available; nobody seemed to know why. The last group that I talked with said that the vanguard of the Germancavalry was only about fifteen miles out of town and would be in thismorning. They were all tremendously excited and did not dally by thewayside to chat about the situation with me. I can't say that I blamethem, particularly in view of what I have seen since. 

At the Porte de Namur I found that the Garde Civique in Brussels hadbeen ordered to disband and that the plan for the defense of the cityhad been completely abandoned. It was the wise thing to do, for therewas no hope of defending the town with the small force of Gardes at thedisposal of the military governor. It would have been quite futile andwould have entailed a big loss of innocent civilian life. The governorwanted to do it purely as a matter of honour, but he would have paid forit heavily and could not have accomplished anything beyond delaying theGermans for an hour or two. The Garde Civique was furious, however, atthe idea of not being able to make a stand. There was a demonstration, but the cooler heads prevailed, and the men withdrew to their homes. 

[Illustration: German supply train entering Brussels]

[Illustration: German infantry entering Brussels]

I was out by seven this morning and looked about for news before comingto the Legation. I found that the Germans were steadily advancing andthat the vanguard was about seven kilometers out of the city. Theyexpected to begin the triumphal march about eleven. The Garde Civiquehad disappeared from the streets and there were very few police to befound. The shops were closed, shutters down on all houses, and posterseverywhere with the proclamation of the Burgomaster urging the people torefrain from hostile acts. It was an abandoned and discouraged-lookingcity. On the boulevards there were long lines of high carts bringing inthe peasants from the surrounding country. They are great high-wheeledaffairs, each drawn by a big Belgian draught horse. Each cart was piledhigh with such belongings as could be brought away in the rush. On topof the belongings were piled children and the old women, all of whom hadcontrived to save their umbrellas and their gleaming, jet-black bonnets, piled with finery. Those who could not find places in the carts walkedalongside, some of them carrying other belongings that could not be puton the carts. It was the most depressing sight so far. Lots of them werecrying; all looked sad and crushed. Every one of them was probablywithout enough money for a week's living. Even those who have money inthe banks cannot get it out at this time. They have no place to go tohere and have a bad prospect even if this part of the campaign isfinished quickly and they are soon able to return to their homes. Theircrops are rotting in the ground and many of their homes are already inruins. That is the hard side of the war--lots harder than the men whogo out and have at least a fighting chance for their lives. 

When I got down to the Legation I found that the telegraph and telephonecommunication had been cut off. The train service is abandoned and weare completely isolated from the outside world. I did not think it wouldcome so soon and only hope that before we were cut off the news wasallowed to get out that there would be no fighting in the city. 

I had a lot of errands to do during the morning and kept both motorsbusy. I found time to get up signs on my door and that of M. De Leval, warning all comers that both places were inviolate. That was inanticipation of quartering of troops on private citizens, which has notbeen done. 

We got word that the Spanish Minister had some news, so I went over tosee him. He had heard from the Burgomaster as to the plans for the entryof the troops, and wanted to pass it along to us. The commanding general, von Jarotzky, was already at the edge of the city, on the BoulevardMilitaire, and was expecting to start into town at one o'clock. He wasto march down the Chaussée de Louvain, the boulevards, and out the otherside of the city, where his men were to be encamped for the present. Otherforces, comparatively small, were to occupy the railway stations and theGrande Place. At the Hôtel de Ville he was to establish the headquartersof the staff and administer the city government through the regularlyconstituted authorities. It was all worked out to a nicety, even to theexact measures for policing the line of march. 

As the Garde Civique was withdrawn, the prisoners in the German Legationknew that there was something in the air and ventured forth into the lightof day. They were not long in learning just what had taken place, andcalled upon us to express their thanks for what we had done for them. I suppose they will be trotting away for their own country before thereis a chance to lock them up again. It must be pretty dismal for them tobe locked up without any news of the outside world when they don't knowwhether their armies are victorious or badly beaten. 

As I was about to start to see the triumphal entry, the Spanish Ministercame along with his flag flying from his motor, and bade us to go withhim. We made off down the Boulevard and drew up at the ItalianLegation--two motors full of us; the whole staff of the Spanish Legationand ourselves. The Italian Minister bade us in to watch the show, whichwe had intended he should do. This did not work out well, so M. De Levaland I started off down the street together. The first of the Germansappeared as we stepped out the front door, and we saw that they were notcoming over the route that had been originally planned. Instead, theywere heading down the hill into the lower town. They proved to be thetroops that were to occupy the Grande Place and guard the headquartersof the staff at the Hôtel de Ville. We cut across through side streetsand came upon them as they were passing Ste. Gudule. There was a sullenand depressed crowd lining the streets, and not a sound was to be heard. It would have been better had the crowd been kept off the streets, butthey behaved wonderfully well. 

A large part of the reason for bringing the German troops through herewas evidently to impress the populace with their force and discipline. It was a wonderful sight, and one which I never expect to see equaled aslong as I live. They poured down the hill in a steady stream without apause or a break; not an order was shouted nor a word exchanged amongthe officers or men. All the orders and signals were given by whistlesand signs. The silence was a large element of the impressiveness. 

These troops had evidently been kept fresh for this march, and I shouldnot be at all surprised if it should prove that they had not seen anyfighting. If they have suffered any losses, they have closed up theirranks with wonderful precision and show none of the signs ofdemoralisation. They had clearly been at great pains to brush up andgive the appearance of freshness and strength. Nearly all the men werefreshly shaven, and their uniforms had been brushed and made as nattyand presentable as possible. They swaggered along with a palpable effortto show that they were entirely at home, and that they owned the place. The officers looked over the heads of the crowd in their bestsupercilious manner, and the men did their best to imitate theirsuperiors. 

First came some lancers--a couple of battalions, I should think; thenthere was a lot of artillery, rapid-fire guns and field pieces. Thenmore cavalry and a full regiment of infantry. When the last contingentof cavalry came along, they burst into song and kept it up steadily. There was a decidedly triumphant note, and the men looked meaningly atthe crowd, as much as to say: "Now do you realise what your little armywent up against when it tried to block us?" It seemed to me pretty roughto rub it in on them by singing songs of triumph as they rode into anundefended city. If they had been attacked and had succeeded in drivingthe invader back into his own capital, it would be understandable; butit seemed to me rather unnecessary to humiliate these people aftertrampling on their poor country and slaughtering half their army. It wasmore than de Leval could stand, so I walked home with him to theLegation. 

When we got back to the Legation I decided that I ought to see all Icould, so Blount and I went back in his car. First we worked our waythrough to the lower town and got a look at the Grande Place. There werea little more than two full battalions resting there, with their fieldpieces parked at the lower end of the square. Small squads were beingwalked around doing the goose step for the delectation of the _bonsBruxellois_, who were kept a block away up the side streets leading tothe square. The men had their arms stacked in the centre of the square, and were resting hard--all but those who were supplying the spectacle. 

From there we went down to Luna Park, an amusement place on the edge ofthe city. The stream was pouring by there just as steadily as it hadearlier in the afternoon. We watched the passing of great quantities ofartillery, cavalry and infantry, hussars, lancers, cyclists, ambulanceattendants, forage men, and goodness only knows what else. 

I have never seen so much system and such equipment. The machine iscertainly wonderful; and, no matter what is the final issue of the war, nobody can deny that so far as that part of the preparation went, theGermans were hard to beat. The most insignificant details were workedout, and all eventualities met with promptness. The horses were shod fora campaign in the country, and naturally there was a lot of slipping onthe smooth cobble pavements. The instant a horse went down there was aman ready with a coarse cloth to put under his head, and another to gounder his forefeet, so that he would have some grip when he tried to getup and would not hurt himself slipping and pawing at the cobbles. Themoment he fell, all hands rushed to the rescue so effectively that hewas on his feet again in no time, and the procession was barelyarrested. The men's kits were wonderfully complete and contained allsorts of things that I had never seen or heard of, so I turned forexplanation to Davis, who had come along and was lost in admiration ofthe equipment and discipline. He said he had been through pretty muchevery campaign for the last twenty years, and thought he knew the lastword in all sorts of equipment, but that this had him staggered. I beganasking him what a lot of things were for, and he frankly admitted thathe was as much in the dark as I was. 

A great many of the officers wore, upon their chests, great electricsearchlights attached to batteries in their saddle-bags. These areuseful when on the march at night, and serve to read sign-posts andstudy maps, etc. 

The supply trains were right with the main body of the troops, and werealso carefully equipped for purposes of display. The kitchens were onwheels, and each was drawn by four horses. The stoves were lighted andsmoke was pouring from the chimneys. The horses were in fine shape andin huge numbers. 

The troops marched down the right side of the boulevard, leaving theleft side free. Up and down this side dashed officers on horseback, messengers on motor-cycles and staff officers in military cars. Therewere no halts and practically no slacking of the pace, as the great armyrolled in. 

Here and there came large motor trucks fitted out as cobblers' shops, each with a dozen cobblers pounding industriously away at boots thatwere passed up to them by the marching soldiers. While waiting forrepairs to be made, these soldiers rode on the running board of themotor, which was broad enough to carry them and their kits. 

After watching them for a while, we moved back to the Boulevard, wherewe found the Minister with the ladies of the family who had been broughtout to watch the passing show. We had hesitated to bring them out at thebeginning for fear that there might be riots, or even worse, precipitated by the foolhardy action of some individual. Fortunately, there was nothing of the sort, and while the reception given the troopswas deadly sullen, they were offered no affronts that we could see. Theentry was effected quietly, and perfect order has prevailed ever since. 

Afterwards we drove out to the country and watched the steady streamnearer its source; still pouring in, company after company, regimentafter regiment, with apparently no end in sight. We watched until afterseven, and decided that the rest would have to get in without ourassistance. On the way back a German monoplane flew over the city, and, turning near the Hôtel de Ville, dropped something that spit fire andsparks. Everybody in the neighbourhood let out a yell and rushed forcover in the firm belief that it was another bomb such as was dropped inNamur. It dropped, spitting fire until fairly near the spire of theHôtel de Ville, when it burst into ten or a dozen lights like a Romancandle--evidently a signal to the troops still outside the city--perhapsto tell them that the occupation had been peacefully accomplished. Welearned afterward that the Minister and Villalobar were riding down thehill and the infernal machine seemed right over their car, giving them anice start for a moment. When I got back to the Legation, I found thatthe Minister had gone with Villalobar to call on the Burgomaster and theGerman General. They found the old gentleman in command at the cityhall, carrying on the government through the Bourgomaster, who hassettled down with resignation to his task. He is tremendously down inthe mouth at having to give up his beautiful Grande Place to a foreignconqueror, but he has the good sense to see that he can do more good forhis country by staying there and trying to maintain order than bygetting out with a _beau geste_. 

The first thing the General did was to excuse himself and go to take abath and get a shave, whereupon he reappeared and announced hisreadiness to proceed to the discussion of business. 

The General said that he had no intention of occupying the townpermanently or of quartering soldiers, or otherwise bothering theinhabitants. He was sent there to keep open a way so that troops couldbe poured through toward the French frontier. They expect to be severaldays marching troops through, and during that time they will remain innominal control of the city. Judging from this, there must be a hugearmy of them coming. We shall perhaps see some of them after the bigengagement, which is bound to take place soon, as they get a littlenearer the French frontier. 

Brussels has not been occupied by a foreign army since Napoleon's time, and that was before it was the capital of a free country. It has beenforty-four years since the capital of a European Power has had hostiletroops marching in triumph through its streets, and the humiliation hasbeen terrible. The Belgians have always had a tremendous city patriotismand have taken more pride in their municipal achievements than anypeople on earth, and it must hurt them more than it could possibly hurtany other people. The Burgomaster, when he went out to meet General vonJarotzky, declined to take his hand. He courteously explained that therewas no personal affront intended, but that under the circumstances hecould hardly bring himself to offer even such a purely perfunctorymanifestation of friendship. The old General, who must be a good deal ofa man, replied quietly that he entirely understood, and that undersimilar circumstances he would probably do the same. The two men are onexceedingly workable terms, but I don't believe they will exchangephotographs after the war is over. Poor Max was going to spend the nightat the Hôtel de Ville. Most of his assistants cleared out for thenight, but he could not bring himself to leave the beautiful oldbuilding entirely in control of the enemy. He curled up and slept on thecouch in his office, just for the feeling it gave him that he wasmaintaining some sort of hold on the old place. 

The Minister arranged to have his telegrams accepted and transmittedwithout loss of time, so we shall soon get word home that we are stillin the land of the living. We wrote out our message and sent it offright after dinner, but Gustave brought it back, saying that thetelegraph office was closed and that he could find no one to whom hecould hand his bundle of messages. Evidently the orders for there-opening of the place did not get around in time for our purposes. Weshall try again the first thing in the morning, and hope that some ofthe newspaper men will have succeeded in getting their stuff out in someother way. They were around in force just after dinner and wild to getan O. K. On their stuff, so that it could be sent. The General had saidthat he wanted the Minister's O. K. On the men themselves, and that hehimself would approve their messages after having them carefully read tohim. He gave them an interview on alleged German atrocities and willprobably let them send through their stories if they play that upproperly. 

After dinner I started out on my usual expedition in search of news. Ifound the Foreign Office closed, and learned upon inquiry that the fewremaining men who had not gone to Antwerp were at home and would not bearound again for the present--thus we have no dealings through theForeign Office, but must do the best we can with the militaryauthorities. I went down to the Palace Hotel on the chance of picking upa little news, but did not have much luck. The restaurant was halffilled with German officers, who were dining with great gusto. TheBelgians in the café were gathered just as far away as possible, and itwas noticeable that instead of the usual row of conversation, there wasa heavy silence brooding over the whole place. 

 * * * * *

_August 21, 1914. _--So far as we can learn we are still as completelycut off from the outside world as we were yesterday. The Generalpromised the Minister that there would be no difficulty in sending histelegrams, either clear or in cipher, but when we came to sending themoff, it was quite another story. 

The first thing this morning I made an attempt to hand them in, butfound all the telegraph offices closed. At ten o'clock I went down tothe Hôtel de Ville to see the General, who has taken over the duties ofMilitary Governor, and see what was the matter. He was away somewhereand so was the Burgomaster, so I contented myself with seeing one of theEchevins, whom I had met a number of times. He could not do anythingabout it on his own responsibility, but made a careful memorandum andsaid that he would take it up with the General, through the Mayor, whenthey both got back. I also asked for _laisser-passers_ for everybody inthe shop, and he promised to attend to that. 

By lunch time we had received no answer from General von Jarotzky, so Igot in the motor with my pocket full of telegrams and went down to theHôtel de Ville once more. It is a depressing sight. The Grande Place, which is usually filled with flower venders and a mass of people comingand going, is almost empty. At the lower end there are parked a numberof small guns; in the centre, some camp kitchens, with smoke rising fromthe chimneys. The courtyard of the Hôtel de Ville itself, where so manysovereigns have been received in state, was filled with saddle-horsesand snorting motors. The discarded uniforms of the Garde Civique werepiled high along one side, as if for a rummage sale. Beer bottles wereeverywhere. In the beautiful Gothic room, hung with the battle flags ofseveral centuries, there are a hundred beds--a dormitory for theofficers who are not quartered at the neighbouring hotels. 

The marvelous order and system which so compelled our admirationyesterday were not in evidence. There were a lot of sentries at the doorand they took care to jab a bayonet into you and tell you that you couldnot enter; but any sort of reply seemed to satisfy them, and you wereallowed to go right up to the landing, where the General had establishedhimself in state at a couple of huge tables. Here confusion reignedsupreme. There were staff officers in abundance, but none of them seemedto have the slightest authority, and the old man had them all socompletely cowed that they did not dare express an opinion or ask for adecision. The General himself is a little, tubby man, who looks asthough he might be about fifty-five; his face is red as fire when it isnot purple, and the way he rages about is enough to make Olympustremble. The crowd of frightened people who came to the Hôtel de Villefor _laisser-passers_ and other papers, all found their way straight tohis office; no one was on hand to sort them out and distribute themamong the various bureaus of the civil administration. Even the staffofficers did very little to spare their chief and head off the crowd. They would come right up to him at his table and shove a _pièced'identité_ under his nose, with a tremulous request for a visé; hewould turn upon them and growl, "_Bas bossible; keine Zeit; laissez moisdranquille, nom de D----!_" He switched languages with wonderfulfacility, and his cuss words were equally effective in any language thathe tried. Just as with us, everyone wanted something quite out of thequestion and then insisted on arguing about the answer that they got. Aman would come up to the General and say that he wanted to get a pass togo to Namur. The General would say impatiently that it was quiteimpossible, that German troops were operating over all that territoryand that no one could be allowed to pass for several days. Then Mr. Manwould say that that was no doubt true, but that _he_ must go because hehad a wife or a family or a business or something else that he wanted toget to. As he talked, the General would be getting redder and redder, and when about to explode, he would spring to his feet and advance uponhis tormentor, waving his arms and roaring at him to get the ---- out ofthere. Not satisfied with that, he invariably availed of the opportunityof being on his feet to chase all the assembled crowd down the stairsand to scream at all the officers in attendance for having allowed allthis crowd to gather. Then he would sit down and go through the sameperformance from the beginning. I was there off and on for more than twohours, and I know that in that time he did not do four minutes'continuous, uninterrupted work. Had it not been for the poor frightenedpeople and the general seriousness of the situation, it would have beenscreamingly funny and worth staying indefinitely to see. 

I had my share of the troubles. I explained my errand to an aide-de-campand asked him to see that proper instructions were given for the sendingof the telegrams. He took them and went away. Then after a few minuteshe came gravely back, clicked his heels, and announced that there was notelegraph communication with the outside world and that he did not knowwhen it would be reëstablished. I asked him to go back to the General, who in the meantime had retreated to the Gothic room and had lockedhimself in with a group of officers. My friend came back again, ratherred in the face, and said that he had authority to stamp my telegramsand let them go. He put the rubber stamp on them and said I could takethem. I said that was all very well, but where could I take them, sincethe telegraph offices were closed. He went off again and came back withthe word that the office in the central bureau was working for officialmessages. I got into the motor with the Italian Secretary, who had asimilar task, and together we went to the central bureau. It was nailedup tight, and the German sentries on guard at the door swore to us bytheir _Ehrenwort_ that there was absolutely nothing doing. 

Back we went to the Hôtel de Ville. Our friend, the aide-de-camp, haddisappeared, but we got hold of another and asked him to inform himself. He went away and we spent a few minutes watching the General blow upeverybody in sight; when the aide-de-camp came back, he smilinglyannounced that there was no way of getting the messages out on the wire;that the best thing we could do would be to send a courier to Hollandand telegraph from there. I told him to go back and get another answer. When he came back next time, he had the glad news that the office hadreally been established in the post office and that orders had been sentover there to have our cables received and sent at once. Away we wentagain, only to find that the latest bulletin was just as good as theothers; the post office was closed up just as tight as the other office, and the sentries turned us away with a weary explanation that there wasnot a living soul inside, as though they had explained it a thousandtimes since they had been on duty. 

By this time the wild-goose chasing was getting a little bit monotonous, and when we got back to the headquarters, I announced with some emphasisto the first aide-de-camp that I could reach, that I did not care to doany more of it; that I wanted him to get me the right information, anddo it right away, so that I should not have to go back to my chief andreport any more futile errands. He went away in some trepidation and wasgone some time. Presently the General came out himself, seething in hisbest manner. 

"_A qui tout ce tas de depeches?_" roars he. 

"_A moi_, " says I. 

He then announced in a voice of thunder that they were all wrong andthat he was having them rewritten. Before I could summon enough breathto shout him down and protest, he had gone into another room and slammedthe door. I rushed back to my trusty aide-de-camp and told him to get methose telegrams right away; he came back with word that they would besent after correction. I said that under no circumstances could theysend out a word over the signature of the American Minister without hishaving written it himself. He came back and said that he could not getthe cables. I started to walk into the office myself to get them, onlyto bump into the General coming out with the messages in his hand. Hethrew them down on a table and began telling a young officer whatcorrections to make on the telegraph form itself. I protested vigorouslyagainst any such proceeding, telling him that we should be glad to havehis views as to any errors in our message, but that he could not touch aletter in any official message. At this stage of the game he wassummoned to the office of the Burgomaster and rushed off with a stringof oaths that would have made an Arizona cow-puncher take off his hat. The young officer started calmly interlining the message, so I reachedover and took it away from him, with the statement that I would reportto my chief what had happened. He was all aflutter, and asked that Iremain, as the General would not be long. I could not see any use inwaiting longer, however, and made as dignified a retreat as possibleunder the circumstances. There were a number of cables in the handful Ihad carried around that were being sent in the interest of the GermanGovernment and of German subjects, and I took good care to tell theyoung man that while we were glad to do anything reasonable for them orfor their people, we had stood for a good deal more than they had aright to expect, and that these cables would stay on my desk until suchtime as they got ready to make a proper arrangement for ourcommunications. Now we shall settle down and see what happens next. 

[Illustration: German officers and soldiers were always ready to obligeby posing for the camera]

[Illustration: "Mit Gott für Kaiser und Reich. " This trio had a maniafor being photographed]

[Illustration: Count Guy d'Oultremont, Adjutant of the Belgian Court. French howitzer in the background]

[Illustration: From left to right: Colonel DuCane, Captain Ferguson, andColonel Fairholme]

When I got back to the Legation I found the Argentine and BrazilianMinisters and the Mexican Chargé d'Affaires waiting to hear the news ofmy mission. I was rather hot under the collar, and gave an unexpurgatedaccount of what had happened. By this time I was beginning to see someof the humor in the situation, but they saw nothing but cause for rage, and left in a fine temper. 

Just to see what would happen, we then proceeded to put our cable in itsoriginal form into cipher, and send it back to the General with awritten request that it be sent immediately to Washington. It will beinteresting to see what reply he makes. The Spanish Minister left sometelegrams with him last night to be sent, and is quite sure that theywere held up, as he has received no answers to any of them. To-morrow heexpects to put on his uniform and make a solemn official call on vonJarotzky to demand that he be granted free communication with hisgovernment. 

During the afternoon a lot of correspondents came in and gave an amusingaccount of what the General had done for them. He had received themcordially and had given them a very pleasing interview, making anextended statement about the alleged German atrocities. Could they sendtheir messages through to their papers? Certainly! Of course the Generalwould have to read the stories and approve the subject matter. Naturally! The boys sat down in great enthusiasm and wrote out theirstories, giving full credit to the German army for the orderly way theygot in, the excellence of their appearance and behaviour, and the calmthat prevailed in the city. They took these messages back and let theold chap read them. He plowed his way carefully through them andexpressed his great satisfaction at the friendly expressions ofapproval. He put his O. K. On them and handed them back with the remarkthat they might send them. The boys ventured to inquire how. "Oh, " saidthe General, "you can either send a courier with them to Holland or toGermany and have them telegraphed from there. " Whereupon he rose and, bowing graciously, left the bunch so flabbergasted that they did notwake up until he was gone. He was most amiable and smiling and got awaywith it. 

The General commanding the forces now coming through--von Arnim--got outa proclamation to-day which was posted in the streets, warning theinhabitants that they would be called upon for supplies and might havetroops quartered upon them, and that if they ventured upon hostile actsthey would suffer severely. 

 PROCLAMATION. 

 BRUSSELS, August 20, 1914. 

 German troops will pass through Brussels to-day and the following days, and will be obliged by circumstances to call upon the city for lodging, food, and supplies. All these requirements will be settled for regularly through the communal authorities. 

 I expect the population to meet these necessities of war without resistance, and especially that there shall be no aggression against our troops, and that the supplies required shall be promptly furnished. 

 In this case I give every guarantee for the preservation of the city and the safety of its inhabitants. 

 If, however, as has unfortunately happened in other places, there are attacks upon our troops, firing upon our soldiers, fires or explosions of any sort, I shall be obliged to take the severest measures. 

 The General Commanding the Army Corps, SIXT VON ARNIM. 

The strongest thing so far was the series of demands made upon the cityand Province. The city of Brussels has been given three days to handover 50 million francs in coin or bills. The Germans also demand atremendous supply of food to be furnished during the next three days. Ifthe city fails to deliver any part of it, it must pay in coin at a rateequal to twice the market value of the supplies. The Province of Brabantmust hand over, by the first of next month, 450 millions of francs--90million dollars. When you consider that the total war indemnity imposedby Germany upon France in 1870 was only five milliards, the enormity ofthis appears. Upon one little province of a tiny country they areimposing a tax equal to one-tenth that imposed on the whole of France. How on earth they are ever to arrange to pay it, I cannot possibly see. I do not know what is to happen if they fail to make good, but I have nodoubt that it will be something pretty dreadful. 

This afternoon the Germans went into the Ministry of War and the ForeignOffice, and searched through the archives. It must have been an entirelyfutile proceeding, for all papers of any interest were removed toAntwerp when the Government left. The higher officials who were stillhere were kept in the buildings to witness the search--a needlesshumiliation. There is talk now of a search of the British Legation, butwe have heard nothing of it and expect that will not be done withoutasking our permission first. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 22, 1914. _--Another day with much to do and no greatresults. 

This morning, at 7 o'clock, General von Jarotzky arrived at the Legationand was all smiles. It appears that my action, in making known mydispleasure at his behaviour and that of his staff, had a good effect. We have heard, from several sources, that he blew up everybody in sightyesterday afternoon when he came out from the Burgomaster's office andlearned that I had departed in bad temper. He knows that nobody dares tooppose his acts or views, but just the same he gave them fits for nothaving made me stay and attend to my case. Be that as it may, heappeared with his Chief of Staff, and sent up a message that brought theMinister down in his pajamas and dressing gown. He expressed greatregret for the "misunderstanding" of yesterday evening, and assured theMinister that there would be no further cause for complaint on our part. He had in his hand the telegram which we had sent him the eveningbefore--the very same telegram which we had been trying to get off eversince the German occupation of the city. He had signed each page of themessage, and had affixed his stamp with an order that it be immediatelytransmitted. He explained to the Minister that the best thing to do wasfor him to take it in person to the office of the Director of the Bureauof Telegraphs, who had already received instructions on the subject. 

[Illustration: Pass issued by General von Jarotzky, the first Germancommander in Brussels, to enable Mr. Gibson to go through the lines toAntwerp. ]

The servants were thrown into a perfect panic by the arrival of the_Généraux_. It took some argument to convince them that the Germanswould hardly need to send two generals to take them into custody, evenif they had any reason to desire them as prisoners. 

About ten o'clock I was starting to go down to the telegraph office, tosend the messages, when the Spanish Minister drove up in his big greencar with the Spanish flag flying at the fore. We told him our story, whereupon he announced that he also had telegrams to send and that hewould go with us. We drove in state to the telegraph office, and foundthat the entrance which had been indicated to us was the alley throughwhich the mail wagons drive in the good days when there are any. Beforean admiring crowd, we descended and made our way among Prussian troopersthrough the noisome alley to a small side door, where we were stopped bya sentry who stuck a bayonet in our general direction and said we couldgo no further. I was immediately thrust into the foreground as thebrilliant German scholar; and, limbering up my heavy German artillery, Iattacked him. The sentry blanched, but stood his ground. An officer cameup as reinforcements, but was also limited to the German tongue; so Ihad to keep it up, with two full-grown Ministers behind me thinking upimpossible things to be translated into the hopeless tongue. Theofficer, who was a genial soul, announced as though there were no useever again to appear at that particular place, that the instruments hadall been removed, and that there was absolutely no way of sending anymessages--no matter from whom they came. We told him that we had come atthe special request of the General himself. He replied that that made nodifference whatever; that if there were no wires and no instruments, there was no possible way of sending the messages. After three or fourrepetitions, the Minister and I began to understand that there was nouse haggling about it; but the Spanish Minister was not so lightly to beturned aside and took up the cudgels, himself bursting into the Germanlanguage. He stood his ground valiantly in the face of a volley of longwords, but he did not get any forrader. Prince Ernst de Ligne came inwith a permit from the General to send his messages, and joined forceswith the Spanish Minister; but the poor officer could only shrug hisshoulders and smile and repeat what he had already said a score oftimes. Mr. Whitlock and I began to laugh, and had a hard time to controlourselves. Finally we prevailed upon them to return to the Hôtel deVille. The Minister was beginning to get even madder than he wasyesterday, when I got back with my story of the way I had spent theafternoon, going from one wild goose chase to another. We got theBurgomaster in his private office and placed our troubles before him. Heunderstood the importance of the matter and sent for the General. Heappeared in short order, clicked his heels, and inquired whether we hadcome in regard to the matter of telegrams. The old fox knew perfectlywell that we had, and was ready for us. We had come to theconclusion--which I had reached yesterday afternoon and held all bymyself--that the old man was jockeying. 

He listened to what we had to say, and then said that there was no meansof communication with the outside world; that he had just learned it afew minutes before. It is hardly necessary to say that he had been fullyposted from the minute he set foot in the town. The Spanish Minister wasrather sarcastic about his opinion of a General who would venture tooccupy a capital without being in possession of means of telegraphiccommunication. The old soldier was in no mood for argument on abstractquestions, and was playing for too big stakes to stop and dicker, so hepassed this over lightly and suggested that we go back and discuss withthe Director-General of Telegraphs the possibilities of reëstablishingcommunications. Then the Spanish Minister let loose on him, andannounced that it was not consistent with the dignity of representativesof World Powers to spend their time standing in back alleys disputingwith soldiers who barred the way and refused to honour the instructionsof their General. He threw in hot shot until the effect told. He saidplainly that the General was full of fair words and promises and agreedto anything that was asked of him, but that when we went to do thethings he had authorised, we were baffled by subordinates that took itupon themselves to disregard these orders--the intimation beingcleverly conveyed that their action might not be unconnected withinstructions from above. The old man then dropped his bluff, and askedwhat we wanted. We asked that he send for the Director-General, and givehim, in our presence, the instructions and authorisation necessary toenable him to reëstablish communication with the outside world, andinstruct him to receive and send all official messages for the Legationsof neutral Powers. There was no way out, short of flatly refusing togive us our right to communicate with our governments, so theDirector-General was sent for and the Burgomaster wrote out, at ourdictation, the most general and comprehensive orders to meet our wishesin all matters of official business. The General signed the order andinstructed the Director-General to go ahead. 

The Director-General was a poor soul who could see nothing but technicaldifficulties in everything that was proposed. He reluctantly agreed toeverything that he was told to do, and there is no telling when ourstories will get off. He told us that when the Germans had occupied thetelegraph bureau, instead of simply disconnecting the instruments andplacing a man there to see that communication was not reëstablished, theofficer in command had battered down the door leading to the roof andhad slashed all the wires with his sabre. As there were three or fourhundred wires leading out of the office, it will be a tremendous job toget them all together again. 

We also took occasion to arrange for the issuance of _sauf conduits_ forall the members of the Legations and for such members of the foreigncolonies under our protection as we care to vouch for. Food is gettingvery scarce because of the enormous demands of the Germans, and we toldvon Jarotzky that we should expect that he make arrangements to see thatour colonies should not suffer from the requisitions--that ample food bereserved to keep them all as long as it might be found necessary forthem to stay here. He agreed to this, but I don't see just how he is toarrange it in practice. There are about fifty thousand men campingwithin a few miles of Brussels, and another Army Corps is now marchingin. The food for all the people must be supplied by the city--allimportations from the outside world have been suspended for days. It isa pretty bad situation, and it will probably get a great deal worsebefore long. I don't know whether we shall get down to eating horse anddog, but it is not altogether improbable. That is one of these thingsthat it is interesting to read about afterward. 

We spent nearly two hours at the Hôtel de Ville, and got in a good dealof talk that will be of service to all sorts of people. When we gotback, we found the chancery full of people who were waiting for us totell them just how they could send telegrams and letters, and getpassports and permits to pass through the lines in all possibledirections. Before leaving I had dictated a bulletin which was posted inthe hallway, stating that there were no communications with the outsideworld by rail, telegraph or post, and that no _laisser-passers_ would begranted by the authorities until conditions had changed, and that theLegation could not issue any sort of papers which would enable people toleave in safety. 

About four o'clock, McCutcheon, Irwin and Cobb breezed in, looking likea lot of tramps. Several days ago they had sailed blissfully away toLouvain in a taxi, which they had picked up in front of the hotel. Whenthey got there, they got out and started to walk about to see what wasgoing on, when, before they could realise what was happening, they foundthemselves in the midst of a Belgian retreat, hard-pressed by a Germanadvance. They were caught between the two, and escaped with their livesby flattening themselves up against the side of a house while the firingcontinued. When the row was over, they were left high and dry with notaxi--of course it had been seized by the retreating troops--and with nopapers to justify their presence in Louvain at such a time. They decidedthat the best thing to do was to go straight to the German headquartersand report. They were received well enough, and told to lodge themselvesas best they could and stay indoors until it was decided what was to bedone with them. They were told that they might be kept prisoners here, or even sent to Berlin, but that no harm would come to them if theybehaved themselves. The order had gone out that if a single shot wasfired at the German troops, from the window of any house, everybody inthe house was to be immediately taken out and shot. Not wishing to riskany such unpleasant end, they rented all the front rooms of a house andspread themselves through all the rooms, so that they could be sure thatnobody did any slaughtering from their house. They were there for threedays, and were told to-day that they might take themselves hence. Theycame back to Brussels in the same clothes that they had worn for thepast three days, unshaven and dirty. When they drove up to the frontdoor this afternoon, they were nearly refused admittance as being tooaltogether disreputable. 

This evening, when I went to see my old friend the General, just beforedinner, he told me that he had had news of a great battle near Metz, inwhich the French army had been cut off and practically destroyed, with aloss of 45, 000 prisoners. It sounds about as probable as some of theother yarns. In view of the fact that my friend had no telegraphiccommunication, I was curious to know where he got his information, butmy gentle queries did not bring forth any news on that point. 

The Germans now expect to establish themselves for some time here inBrussels. They are going to occupy the various governmental departments, and it is quite possible that for some time we shall have to dealexclusively with them. The Government to which we are accredited hasfaded away, and we are left here with a condition and not a theory. Weshall have to deal with the condition, and I am not at all sure that thecondition will not require some pretty active dealing with. Functionaries are to be brought from Berlin to administer the variousdepartments, so that it is evidently expected that the occupation is notto be of a temporary character. 

 * * * * *

_Later. _--After writing the foregoing, I went upstairs and listened tosome of the tales of the four people who were tied up at Louvain. Nowthat they are safely out of it, they can see the funny side of it, butit was certainly pretty dangerous while it lasted. Monsieur de Leval isovercome with admiration for their _sang-froid_, and marvels at the raceof men we breed. 

They seem to have made themselves solid with the Germans before they hadbeen there long; it would be hard for anybody to resist that crowd anylength of time. Of course they never saw their taxi again after gettingout to scout for the battle, and whenever the Major who had the duty ofkeeping them under surveillance came to take a look at them, Cobb wouldwork up a sob-shaken voice and plead for liberty and permission toreturn to Brussels. He was always at some pains to explain that it wasnot his life he was worrying about, but the haunting thought of thattaxi running up at the rate of fifty centimes every three minutes. Aftera while he got the Major's funny bone located, and then all was well. Heso completely got into the officer's good graces that he promised tosend us word that they were safe and well, --and then failed to do so. 

While the Germans occupied the city, all inhabitants were required to beindoors by eight o'clock; a light had to be kept in every window, andthe blinds left open, so that any one moving could be clearly seen fromthe street. The windows themselves were to be closed. Dosch said he wokeup about four o'clock one morning with his head splitting; the lamp wassmoking and the air vile with smoke and smell. He decided he wouldprefer to be shot than die of headache, so deliberately got up andopened his window. The story loses its point by the fact that afterviolating this strict rule, he was not taken out and shot. 

They said it was really pretty dreadful. From their window, they saw, every little while, a group of soldiers lead some poor frightenedBelgian to a little café across the street; several officers weresitting at one of the tables on the sidewalk, holding a sort of drumheadcourt martial. While they were examining the case, a squad would bemarched around behind the railroad station. A few minutes later theprisoner would be marched around by another way, and in a few minutesthere would be a volley and the troops would be marched back to theirpost; then, after a little while, a stretcher would be brought out witha body in civilian clothes, a cloth over the face. Some of the prisonerswere women, and there were screams before the shots were fired. It musthave been a dreadful ordeal to go through. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, August 27, 1914. _--The day after my last entry I started on atrip to Antwerp, got through the lines and managed to wriggle back intoBrussels last night after reëstablishing telegraph communication withthe Department and having a number of other things happen to and aroundabout me. 

All I can remember now of the 23d is that it was a Sunday, and that wecould hear cannonading all day long from the east. It was hard to telljust where it came from, but it was probably from the direction of Wavreand Namur. It was drizzly all day. The German troops continued to pourthrough the city. From time to time, during the last few days, theirmarch has been interrupted for a couple of hours at a time, apparentlyas a result of a determined attempt on the part of the French andEnglish to stop the steady flow of troops toward the French frontier. Each time we could hear the booming of the cannon, the deep voices ofthe German guns and the sharp, dry bark of the French. At night we haveseen the searchlights looking for the enemy or flashing signals. Despitethe nearness of all this fighting and the sight of the wounded beingbrought in, the streets barred off to keep the noisy traffic away fromthe hospitals, and all the other signs of war, it has still been hard torealize that it was so near us. 

Our little German General, von Jarotzky, has kept clicking his heelstogether and promising us anything we chose to ask. We have run aroundday after day with our telegrams, and not one has got farther than theHôtel de Ville. Being naturally somewhat touchy, we got tired of thisafter a few days, and decided that the only way to get any news toWashington was for me to go to Antwerp and get into direct communicationover the cable from there. We got our telegrams ready and made a lasttry on the General Monday morning. He was still effusively agreeable andassured us that he had determined to place a military field wire at ourdisposal so that we could communicate with Washington via Berlin. Ourprevious experiences had made us suspicious, so it was decided thatwhile depositing our messages here, I would make a try at gettingthrough the lines and send whatever I thought best from Antwerp or anyother place I could reach. We told the General frankly what we intendedto do, and he was all smiles and anxiety to please. At our request hehad an imposing passport made out for me, signed with his hand andauthorized with his seal. The Burgomaster wrote out an equally goodletter for us when we reached the Belgian lines. Providence was to takecare of us while we were between the lines, and, just to make itunanimous, He did. 

We wanted to get away during the morning, but one thing after anothercame up and I was kept on the jump. We had to stop and worry about ournewspaper correspondents, who have wandered off again. Morgan camesauntering in during the morning and announced that he and Davis had setout on foot to see whether there was any fighting near Hal; they hadfallen in with some German forces advancing toward Mons. Aftersatisfying themselves that there was nothing going on at Hal or Enghien, Morgan decided that he had had enough walking for one day, and was forcoming home. Davis felt that they were too near the front to give up, and with a Sherlock Holmes sagacity announced that if they stuck tothese German troops, they would succeed in locating the French andBritish armies. Morgan thought this so probable that he was all forcoming back, and left Davis tramping along behind an ammunition wagon insearch of adventure. He found it. 

After getting out of their trouble at Louvain, McCutcheon, Cobb andLewis set forth on another adventure. There are, of course, no motorcars or carriages to be had for love or money, so they invested in acouple of aged bicycles and a donkey cart. Cobb, who weighs far abovestandard, perched gracefully on top of the donkey cart, and the othertwo pedalled alongside on their wheels. They must have been a funnyoutfit, and at last accounts were getting along in good style. The airis filled with nervousness, however, and there is a constantlyincreasing list of people who are being thrown into jail, or shot asspies, and there is little time for careful and painstaking trials forwanderers who are picked up inside the lines of the fighting armies andare unable to render a convincing account of themselves. I shall berather uncomfortable about them until they reappear. 

While we were waiting for the final formalities for our trip to beaccomplished, I invested in a wrist watch and goggles. We also bought afuzzy animal like a Teddy bear, about three inches high, and tied him onthe radiator as a mascot. He made a hit with all hands and got avaluable grin from several forbidding-looking Germans. We had signs onthe car fore and aft, marking it as the car of the American Legation, the signs being in both French and German. As we were the first to tryto make the trip, we thought it up to us to neglect nothing that wouldhelp to get us through without any unpleasant shooting or bayoneting. 

[Illustration: Letter signed by Burgomaster Max requesting the Belgianauthorities to allow Mr. Gibson to pass through the lines on his way toAntwerp. This was one of the last documents signed by the Burgomasterbefore he was sent to Germany as a prisoner of war. 

 Bruxelles, le 24 Septembre 1914

 Le Bourgmestre de Bruxelles, prie les Autorités Belges de bien vouloir laisser passer Monsieur Hugh S. Gibsen, secrétaire de la Légation des Etats-Unis d'Amérique, accompagné de son chauffeur. 

 M. H. S. Gibsen est chargé d'une mission officielle. 

 Le Bourgmestre

 Vu au Consulat de Belgique à ROOSENDAAL (P. B. ) le 28 septembre 1914

 LE CONSUL DE BELGIQUE]

After formally filing all our telegrams with the German General, Blountand I got under way at half-past two. We pulled out through the northernend of the city, toward Vilvorde. There were German troops and supplytrains all along the road, but we were not stopped until we got abouthalf way to Vilvorde. Then we heard a loud roar from a field of cabbageswe were passing and, looking around, discovered what looked like areview of the Knights of Pythias. A magnificent-looking man onhorseback, wearing several orders, surrounded by a staff of some ten ortwelve others, was riding toward us through the cabbages, waving angrilyat us to stop. The whole crowd surrounded the car and demanded hotly howwe dared venture out of town by this road. While they were industriouslyblowing us up, the Supreme Potentate observed the sign on the front ofthe car, GESANDTSCHAFT DER VEREINIGTEN STAATEN, whereupon he camestraightway to salute and kept it up. The others all saluted mostearnestly and we had to unlimber and take off our hats and bow asgracefully as we could, all hunched up inside a little racing car. ThenI handed out our pass, which the chief of staff read aloud to theassembled notables. They were all most amiable, warned us to proceedwith great caution, driving slowly, stopping every hundred yards, and totear back toward town if popping began in our immediate neighbourhood. They were so insistent on our not getting in the way of bullets that Ihad to assure them, in my best rusty German, that we were getting intothis ragged edge of their old war simply because it was necessary forbusiness reasons and not because of any ardent desire to have holes shotthrough us. They all laughed and let us go our way with a final caution. From that time on we were in the midst of German patrols. We religiouslyobserved the officers' advice to drive slowly and keep a lookout. Fiveminutes later we began to meet peasants running away from their homes inthe direction of Brussels. They reported fighting near Malines, and saidthat we were running straight into it. They were a badly frightenedlot. We decided that the only thing to do was to go ahead, feeling ourway carefully, and come back or wait if things got too hot for us. Wewere stopped several times by troops crossing the road to get intotrenches that were already prepared, and once had to wait while a biggun was put in place. It was a ticklish business to come around a turnin the road and light on a hundred men sneaking along behind a hedgewith their rifles ready for instant action. Just beyond Eppeghem we meta troop of cavalry convoying a high cart filled with peasants, who hadevidently been taken prisoners. The officer in charge was a nervouschap, who came riding at us, brandishing his revolver, which he had tiedto the pommel of his saddle with a long cord. He was most indignant thatwe had been allowed to come this far and reluctantly admitted that ourpass was good. All the time he talked with us, and told us of theskirmishing ahead, he kept waving that large blunderbuss in our faces. Itried a little humour on him by saying, as nearly as the unwieldystructure of the German tongue would permit: "Please point that thingthe other way; you can never tell when it may go off and hurt somebody. "He was quite solemn about it, however, and assured us that he hadperfect control over it, emphasising his remarks by shaking it under ournoses. I was glad to get out of his range, for I verily believe that ifsomebody had shouted _boo!_ he would have let that gun off with a bang. 

The German officers we talked with from time to time said that theBelgians were advancing, and that several skirmishes had taken place;that a big engagement was expected during the night or in the morning. We passed the last of the German outposts about two miles this side ofMalines, but for fear we might tell on them, they would not tell uswhether we had any more of their kind ahead of us. We shot along throughthe open country, between the last Germans and the edge of Malines, at afairly good rate, and kept a lookout for the English flag, which we hadbeen given to understand was flying from the tower of the Cathedral. That is what we had been given to understand in Brussels, but along theroad they were very noncommittal about the whereabouts of the Britishtroops. When we finally did get a clear view of the Cathedral spires, wesaw the Belgian flag standing straight out in the good breeze that wasblowing, and while that showed that the English troops had not takenover the place, it at least convinced us that the Germans were behindus; As we drove through the little suburb on this side of the canalwhich runs through the edge of the town, we found that all the houseswere battened up tight. One lone man, who came out from a little café, told us that the Germans had been through about fifteen minutes before, and had shot up the town, until they were driven off by a small force ofBelgian cavalry which had appeared from nowhere and had as quickly goneback to the same place. Not knowing what forces were ready to start inagain on short notice, all the inhabitants who were fortunate enough tohave cellars were hiding in them, and the rest were trying to get intotown as best they could, leaving their belongings. 

When we reached the canal, we found that the drawbridge had been takenup, and that there was no way to get across. There were a few gendarmeson the other side, and a few carts on our side of the canal. All wereanxious to get across, but the Burgomaster had ordered traffic suspendeduntil things had quieted down. We prevailed upon a genial gendarme torun back and get orders to govern our special case. After waving ourcredentials and showing how much influence we had with the localadministration, we were quite popular with the panic-stricken peasantswho wanted to get into town. Orders came very soon, and we made straightfor the Hôtel de Ville to thank the Burgomaster for letting us in, andalso to pick up any news he had as to conditions. We did not get anygreat amount, however, as he could not get over the fact that we hadcome straight through from Brussels without having been shot by theGerman or the Belgian patrols, who were out with orders to pick upstrays like us. We tried several times to get information out of him, but he could do nothing but marvel at our luck, and above all at our_prouesse_, which left him quite bowled over. We gave him up and wentour way. He has had other things to marvel about since. 

Not far out of Malines, we ran into the first Belgian outpost. When wewere about fifty yards from them, they surged across the road and beganbrandishing rifles, swords, lances--a veritable armory of deadlyweapons. Blount put on the emergency brakes, and we were bracing forquick and voluble explanations when we saw that they were all grinningbroadly and that each one was struggling to get our particularattention. We had our _laisser-passers_ in our hands, and waved them inthe air. No one would pay the slightest heed to them. From the hubbubthat was seething about our ears, we learned that ten minutes or sobefore they had finished a little brush with the Germans, and that thearticles they had been waving in our faces were the trophies of thecombat. Each fellow was anxious to show us what he had taken, and totell just how he had done it. They seemed to take it for granted that wewere friends and would enjoy the sight, and share their delight. One ofthe boys--a chap about eighteen--held aloft a huge pair of cavalry bootswhich he had pulled off a German he had killed. It was a curious mixtureof childish pride and the savage rejoicing of a Fiji Islander with ahead he has taken. We admired their loot until they were satisfied, andthen prevailed upon them to look at our papers, which they did in aperfunctory way. Then, after shaking hands all round, they sent us onwith a cheer. We were hero-curiosities as the first civilians who hadgot through from the German lines since the occupation of Brussels. Andperhaps we were not glad to be safely inside the Belgian lines! It wasnervous work that far, but once inside we found everybody friendly andgot through without any trouble, although we were stopped everykilometer or so. Soon after we passed the first outposts, we beganpassing Belgian troops advancing toward Malines in large force. Theyseemed in good spirits and ready for anything. Our position here hasgone steadily up since the beginning of the hostilities, and everywherewe went, the flag was cheered and we got a warm welcome. 

This forward movement of the troops was a part of a concerted operationby which the Belgians were to attempt to push through to Brussels whilethe main German army was engaged in attacking Mons and Charleroi. 

About twelve kilometers out of Antwerp, we were stopped at a littlehouse and asked if we would take a wounded man into town to thehospital. He had been shot through the hand and was suffering from shockand loss of blood, but was able to chew on a huge chunk of bread all theway into town. He had no interest in anything else, and, after tryingone or two questions on him, I let him alone and watched the troops wewere passing--an unbroken line all the way in. The main Belgian army anda lot of the Garde Civique were inside the ring of forts and were allbeing put on the road with full contingents of supply wagons, ambulances, and even the dog artillery. These little chaps came tuggingalong the road and turned their heads to bark at us with enthusiasm. 

For a mile or so outside the _enceinte_, which has been thrown up aroundthe town, the roads are heavily mined, and small red flags plantedbetween the cobbles to warn passers-by to tread gently and gingerly. Wedid not require the urging of the sentries to make us proceed withcaution over these places, which were so delicately mined that heavycarts were not allowed to pass. I breathed more easily when we were onceout of this. 

We found the military hospital and handed over our wounded soldier tothe attendants, who bundled him inside and then rushed back to hear whatwe could tell them. They had not heard a word from the outsideworld--or rather from our part of the outside world--since thewithdrawal of the Belgian army to Antwerp, and they greeted us as theywould greet fellow-beings returning from a journey to Mars. They had afew newspapers which were being published in Antwerp, and handed themover to us, we being as anxious as they for the news that we had notbeen able to get. 

From the hospital we drove to the Hôtel St. Antoine and asked for rooms. The proprietor was very suspicious of us, and we had a tremendous timeconvincing him that there was nothing the matter with us. He _knew_ thatwe could not have come from Brussels, as nobody had been able to makethe trip. Our papers were _en règle_, but that made no difference. German spies and other suspicious characters had managed to get forgedpapers before that. Fortunately, all the other diplomats were living inthe hotel, and I asked that he hunt up some of them, and verify what wehad to say for ourselves. Webber, of the British Legation, was broughtout and acted as though he had seen a ghost. He calmed down enough toassure the proprietor that we were respectable citizens, and that hecould safely give us rooms. All the other people were away from thehotel for the moment, so we deposited our things in our room, and madefor the Consulate-General. It was then half-past six, and theConsul-General had gone for the day. A well-trained porter refused totell where either he or the Vice-Consul-General lived, but we managed tofind out and got to the Vice-Consul-General's house after a hunt with a_chasseur_ of the hotel on the box. He was not at home, but his wifewas there. We talked with her for a few minutes, and then went back tothe hotel to await Sherman's (Vice-Consul-General) coming. He called inthe course of a few minutes, and we made arrangements to go to theConsulate after dinner and get off our telegrams. 

By the time we could get washed up and ready for dinner, the crowd hadcome back, and when we set foot on the stairway, we were literallyoverwhelmed by our loving friends. First, I met Sir Francis Villiers andaccepted his invitation to dine. He and Prince Koudacheff, the RussianMinister, a lot of other colleagues, and goodness only knows who else, fell upon us with demands for news. I took refuge in Sir Francis'soffice, and saw as many people as I could until dinner time. Baron vander Elst, the Secretary General of the Foreign Office, and M. Carton deWiart, the Minister of Justice, forgetting all about the requirements ofthe protocol that I should make the first call upon them, came flyingaround to see if I had any news of their families. Luckily I had, andwas able to tell them that all was well. I did not know that I had somuch first-hand knowledge of the people in Brussels, but was able togive good news to any number of people. It became a regular joyfest, andwas more fun for me than for anybody else. By eight o'clock we got outto dinner, but hardly got two consecutive bites without interruptions. In the midst of soup, General Yungbluth, Chief of Staff to the King, came around in full regimentals and wanted to get all sorts of news forthe Queen. Before we got much farther, others began to arrive and drewup chairs to the table, filling up all that part of the room. As wewere finishing dinner, several Ministers of State came in to say thatthe Prime Minister wanted me to come to meet him and the Cabinet Councilwhich was being held--just to assure them that all was well with theirfamilies and to tell them, in the bargain, anything that I felt Iproperly could. However, I had my real work ahead of me--getting off mytelegrams to Washington. I tore myself away from the crowd and, joiningSherman, who was waiting for me in the hall, I made for theConsulate-General. The Consul-General was already there, anxious to hearthe news. I had to get before the Department all the news I could, andas comprehensive a statement as possible of everything that had happenedsince communications had been cut. I pounded away until after eleven, and got off a fat bundle of cables, which Sherman took to the office forme. I then made for the Grand Hôtel, where the Cabinet Council waswaiting for me. 

I have never been through a more moving time than the hour and a half Ispent with them. It was hard to keep from bursting out and telling themeverything that I knew would interest them. I had bound myself with nopromises before I left about telling of the situation, but none the lessI felt bound not to do it. I was able to tell them a great deal that wasof comfort to them, and that could give no ground for objection if theGermans were to know of it, and, on these subjects, I gave them all theywanted. After telling them all I could about their families and friends, I let them ask questions and did my best to answer those that I could. The first thing they wanted to know was how the Germans had behaved inthe town. The answer I gave them was satisfactory. Then they wanted toknow whether the Royal Palace had been respected, or whether the Germanflag was flying over it; also whether the Belgian flag still flew on theHôtel de Ville. Their pride in their old town was touching, and whenthey heard that no harm had as yet been done it, you would have thoughtthat they were hearing good news of friends they had lost. Then theystarted in and told me all the news they had from outside sources--bitsof information which had reached them indirectly via Holland, and thereports of their military authorities. We have never had such completeinformation given us--enough to justify the trip even if I had notrestored communication with the Department. 

We stayed on and talked until nearly half-past twelve, when I got up andinsisted on leaving; perhaps it is just as well. They did not want tobreak up the party, but when I insisted, they also made up their mindsto call it a day's work and quit. 

We brought van der Elst back to the hotel, and with his influence ranour car into the Gendarmerie next door. Then to bed. 

Blount and I had a huge room on the third floor front. We had just gotinto bed and were settling down to a good night's rest when there was anexplosion, the like of which I have never heard before, and we sat upand paid strict attention. We were greatly interested, but took itcalmly, knowing that the forts were nearly four miles out of town andthat they could bang away as long as they liked without doing more thanspoil our night's sleep. There were eight of these explosions at shortintervals, and then as they stopped there was a sharp _purr_ like thedistant rattle of a machine gun. As that died down, the chimes of theCathedral--the sweetest carillon I have ever heard--sounded one o'clock. We thought that the Germans must have tried an advance under cover of abombardment, and retired as soon as they saw that the forts werevigilant and not to be taken by surprise. We did not even get out ofbed. About five minutes later we heard footsteps on the roof and thevoice of a woman in a window across the street, asking some one on thesidewalk below whether it was safe to go back to bed. I got out and tooka look into the street. There were a lot of people there talking andgesticulating, but nothing of enough interest to keep two tired men fromtheir night's sleep, so we climbed back into bed and stayed untilmorning. 

Blount called me at what seemed an unreasonably early hour and said weshould be up and about our day's work. When we were both dressed, wefound that we had made a bad guess, when he looked at his watch anddiscovered that it was only a quarter to seven. Being up, however, wedecided to go down and get our breakfast. 

When we got down we found everybody else stirring, and it took usseveral minutes to get it through our heads that we had been throughmore excitement than we wotted of. Those distant explosions that we hadtaken so calmly were bombs dropped from a Zeppelin which had sailed overthe city and dropped death and destruction in its path. The first bombfell less than two hundred yards from where we slept--no wonder that wewere rocked in our beds! After a little breakfast we sallied forth. 

The first bomb was in a little street around the corner from the hotel, and had fallen into a narrow four-story house, which had been blown intobits. When the bomb burst, it not only tore a fine hole in the immediatevicinity, but hurled its pieces several hundred yards. All the windowsfor at least two hundred or three hundred feet were smashed into littlebits. The fronts of all the surrounding houses were pierced withhundreds of holes, large and small. The street itself was filled withdébris and was impassable. From this place we went to the other pointswhere bombs had fallen. As we afterward learned, ten people were killedoutright; a number have since died of their injuries and a lot more areinjured, and some of these may die. A number of houses were completelywrecked and a great many will have to be torn down. Army officers wereamazed at the terrific force of the explosions. The last bomb dropped asthe Zeppelin passed over our heads fell in the centre of a largesquare--la Place du Poids Publique. It tore a hole in the cobblestonepavement, some twenty feet square and four or five feet deep. Everywindow in the square was smashed to bits. The fronts of the houses wereriddled with holes, and everybody had been obliged to move out, as manyof the houses were expected to fall at any time. The Dutch Minister'shouse was near one of the smaller bombs and was damaged slightly. Everywindow was smashed. All the crockery and china are gone; mirrors in tinyfragments; and the Minister somewhat startled. Not far away was Faura, the First Secretary of the Spanish Legation. His wife had been worriedsick for fear of bombardment, and he had succeeded only the day beforein prevailing upon her to go to England with their large family ofchildren. Another bomb fell not far from the houses of theConsul-General and the Vice-Consul-General, and they were not at allpleased. The windows on one side of our hotel were also smashed. 

[Illustration: Boy Scouts at Belgian headquarters, Lierre]

[Illustration: Reading from left to right: a Belgian Staff Officer, Colonel Fairholme, Colonel DuCane and Captain Ferguson. (MalinesCathedral in the background)]

[Illustration: "Hommage aux Glorieux Martyrs de Tamines, tombés dans laJournée du 20 Août 1914". List of the civilians killed by the Germans atTamines on August 20, 1914. ]

We learned that the Zeppelin had sailed over the town not more than fivehundred feet above us; the motor was stopped some little distance awayand she slid along in perfect silence and with her lights out. It wouldbe a comfort to say just what one thinks about the whole business. The_purr_ of machine guns that we heard after the explosion of the lastbomb was the starting of the motor, which carried our visitor out ofrange of the guns which were trundled out to attack her. Preparationswere being made to receive such a visit, but they had not beencompleted; had she come a day or two later, she would have met a warmreception. The line of march was straight across the town, on a linefrom the General Staff, the Palace where the Queen was staying with theroyal children, the military hospital of Ste. Elisabeth, filled withwounded, the Bourse, and some other buildings. It looks very much asthough the idea had been to drop one of the bombs on the Palace. ThePalace itself was missed by a narrow margin, but large pieces of thebomb were picked up on the roof and shown me later in the day byInglebleek, the King's Secretary. The room at the General Staff, whereI had been until half an hour before the explosion, was a pretty ruin, and it was just as well for us that we left when we did. It was a fine, big room, with a glass dome skylight over the big round table where wewere sitting. This came in with a crash and was in powder all over theplace. Next time I sit under a glass skylight in Antwerp, I shall have aguard outside with an eye out for Zeppelins. 

If the idea of this charming performance was to inspire terror, it was acomplete failure. The people of the town, far from yielding to fear, aredevoting all their energies to anger. They are furious at the idea ofkilling their King and Queen. There is no telling when the performancewill be repeated, but there is a chance that next time the balloon manwill get a warmer reception. 

In the morning I went around and called at the Foreign Office, which isestablished in a handsome building that belonged to one of the municipaladministrations. The Minister for Foreign Affairs took me into hisoffice and summoned all hands to hear any news I could give them oftheir families and friends. I also took notes of names and addresses ofpeople in Brussels who were to be told that their own people in Antwerpwere safe and well. I had been doing that steadily from the minute weset foot in the hotel the night before, and when I got back here, I hadmy pockets bulging with innocent messages. Now comes the merry task ofgetting them around. 

At the hotel we were besieged with invitations to lunch and dine withall our friends. They were not only glad to see somebody from theoutside world, but could not get over the sporting side of our trip, and patted us on the back until they made us uncomfortable. Everybody inAntwerp looked upon the trip as a great exploit, and exuded admiration. I fully expected to get a Carnegie medal before I got away. And itsounded so funny coming from a lot of Belgian officers who had for thelast few weeks been going through the most harrowing experiences, withtheir lives in danger every minute, and even now with a perfectly goodchance of being killed before the war is over. They seem to take that asa matter of course, but look upon our performance as in some waydifferent and superior. People are funny things. 

I stopped at the Palace to sign the King's book, and ran into GeneralJungbluth, who was just starting off with the Queen. She came down thestairs and stopped just long enough to greet me, and then went her way;she is a brave little woman and deserves a better fate than she has had. Inglebleek, the King's Secretary, heard that I was there signing thebook, and came out to see me. He said that the Queen was anxious Ishould see what had been done by the bombs of the night before. Hewanted me to go right into the houses and see the horrid details. I didnot want to do this, but there was no getting out of it under thecircumstances. 

We drove first to the Place du Poids Publique and went into one of thehouses which had been partially wrecked by one of the smaller bombs. Everything in the place had been left as it was until the policemagistrate could make his examination and report. We climbed to thefirst floor, and I shall never forget the horrible sight that awaitedus. A poor policeman and his wife had been blown to fragments, and thepieces were all over the walls and ceiling. Blood was everywhere. Otherdetails are too terrible even to think of. I could not stand any morethan this one room. There were others which Inglebleek wanted to showme, but I could not think of it. And this was only one of a number ofhouses where peaceful men and women had been so brutally killed whilethey slept. 

And where is the military advantage of this? If the bombs were droppednear the fortifications, it would be easy to understand, but in thisinstance it is hard to explain upon any ground, except the hope ofterrifying the population to the point where they will demand that theGovernment surrender the town and the fortifications. Judging from thetemper they were in yesterday at Antwerp, they are more likely to demandthat the place be held at all costs rather than risk falling under therule of a conqueror brutal enough to murder innocent people in theirbeds. 

The Prime Minister told me that he had four sons in the army--all thechildren he has--and that he was prepared to give every one of them, andhis own life and fortune, into the bargain, but that he was _not_prepared--and here he banged his fist down on the table and his eyesflashed--to admit for a minute the possibility of yielding to Germany. Everybody else is in the same state of mind. It is not hysterical. Thewar has been going on long enough, and they have had so many hard blowsthat the glamour and the fictitious attractiveness of the thing hasgone, and they have settled down in deadly earnest to fight to thebitter end. There may not be one stone left upon another in Belgiumwhen the Germans get through, but if these people keep up to theirpresent level they will come through--what there is left of them--free. 

Later in the afternoon I went to the Foreign Office and let them read tome the records of the commission which is investigating the allegedGerman atrocities. They are working in a calm and sane way and seem tobe making the most earnest attempt to get at the true facts, no matterwhether they prove or disprove the charges that have been made. It iswonderful to see the judicial way they can sit down in the midst of warand carnage and try to make a fair inquiry on a matter of this sort. Ifone one-thousandth part of the charges are proven to be true. .. . 

The rest of the afternoon was spent seeing people who came in for newsof Brussels, and who had messages to send home. I had had to tell thehotel people that I would be there from four to seven to see people, andthat the rest of the time I must have free for my own work. They came inswarms; all the diplomats, the Cabinet Ministers, and the Ministers ofState, army officers, and other officials--a perfect mob. I had apackage of cards on which I noted names and addresses and the messageswhich were to be delivered. These messages have been sent out to-day, after being submitted to the military authorities, some of them inwriting and some by word of mouth, and if they have afforded one-tenththe comfort that I hope, the sum total of misery in this town has beenreduced a good deal this day. 

Colonel Fairholme left for the front, with the King, early in themorning, and was with him during the battle at Malines. He thought wewere going back during the day, as I had told him the evening before. About noon he called up from the telephone and told Sir Francis thatunder no circumstances was I to be allowed to start, as the town wasbeing bombarded with heavy siege pieces and all traffic was absolutelystopped; that we could not only not get by, but that any part of thetrip by the regular road was extremely dangerous. I was just as gladthat we had decided to stay over. The Colonel stayed out all that nightand had not returned to Antwerp when we left yesterday. During themorning he called up again and asked about us, again advising againstour starting. Pretty decent of a man who has as much to think of as hehad to be worrying about us enough to take time to telephone us as tothe dangers of the road. 

During the evening bad news came in from France, and everybody was downin the mouth. The French Minister came in and told me what he hadreceived. Everybody was plainly worried, and altogether things lookedpretty dismal. We sat around a little while and then decided for a goodnight's sleep. 

To make sure of offering no unnecessary chances for Mr. Zeppelin theauthorities had ordered all the lights on the streets put out at eighto'clock. It was dark as midnight and there was no use in thinking ofventuring out into the town. The Cathedral clock was stopped and thecarillon turned off for the first time in heaven only knows how manyyears. It was a city of the dead. Guns were posted in the streets readyfor instant use in case the airship should put in another appearance. Asa result of this and the searchlights that played upon the sky allnight, our friend the enemy did not appear. Some people know when theyhave had enough. 

Yesterday morning I looked out of my window at the Cathedral clock, andsaw that it was twenty-five minutes to ten. I tumbled through my tub, and rushed downstairs to get through my morning's work, only to findthat it was half-past six. I had forgotten that the Cathedral clock hadbeen stopped. 

It was just as well that I was up early, however, for there was plentyto be done. I found a lot of telegrams waiting for me at the Consulate, and had to get off another string of them. Then an orderly held me up onthe street to tell me that the King's Secretary was hunting for me allover the place, and that I was wanted at the Palace. When I got there, he had started off on another hunt for me. He finally got me at thehotel, and kept me for half an hour. 

By the time that I got through with him, there was word that theMinister of Foreign Affairs wanted to see me, so I made a bee-line overthere. Then there was another call to the Consulate to answer some moretelegrams. After attending to various matters at the Palace, theMinistry for Foreign Affairs, the Consulate General, and seeing a fewmore people at the hotel, the morning was gone and it was time for lunchand a quick get-away. 

All hands came out and bade us farewell. You would have thought we wereon our way to Heaven, except for the fact that they urged us to comeback. 

As we could hear the cannonading, we decided that we would avoid theMalines road and would try to skirt around the zone of trouble and workour way into Brussels from the west. We got ferried across the Scheldton a terrible tub of a steamer that looked as though she would go downunder the weight of the military automobiles that she had to get acrossin order to take ammunition to the front. We all got away in a bunchfrom the other side, but we drew ahead of them as we had not such aheavy load; and within three-quarters of an hour we were outside theBelgian lines. Van der Elst had secured for us a most imposing_laisser-passer_, which took us through with practically no troubleexcept that it was so impressive that we were held at each barricadewhile all the men on duty took turns reading it. The only ticklish partof the trip to the Belgian outposts was working our way through thevillages which had been mined in anticipation of a German invasion. Itis bad enough working one's way through there in a motor with everybodyhelping you to keep out of harm's way, but it must be a trifle worse todo it in a mass with a man on a hill a little way off waiting for you tocome up to the signal post so that he can touch a button and send you insmall pieces into the next world. 

We struck out through St. Nicholas, Hamme, Termonde and Assche, and gotinto Brussels from the west without mishap. We have got quite used tohaving people poke bayonets in our faces and brandish revolvers at us, so the latter part of the trip with only that to contend with seemedquiet and almost boring. 

On the road in from Assche, we passed near Eppeghem and Vilvorde, wherethe fighting had been going on for a couple of days. After news had beenreceived in Antwerp of the defeat of the French and English at Mons andCharleroi, the Belgians were ordered to fall back on Antwerp and hadleft these little villages to be occupied by the Germans. As theyoccupied them, they had set them afire and the flames were raging as wecame by. They were quaint little towns, and had excited our admirationtwo days before when we had gone through--despite the fact that we hadother things on our minds beside admiring the beauties of architecture. Now they are gone. 

The Germans gave us no trouble, and we got back to the Legation by alittle before five. Everyone poured out to meet us, and greeted us asprodigal sons. When we had not come back the day before, they had aboutmade up their minds that something dreadful had happened to us, and therejoicing over our return was consequently much greater than if we hadnot whetted their imaginations just a little. 

I found that the situation in Brussels had undergone big changes while Iwas away. General von Jarotzky had been replaced by General vonLüttwitz, who is an administrator and has been sent to put things inrunning order again. There was no inkling of this change when I left, and I was a good deal surprised. Guns have been placed at variousstrategic points commanding the town, and the Germans are ready foranything. The telephone wire they had put through the town to connectthe two stations and headquarters was cut day before yesterday by somecheerful idiot who probably thought he was doing something good for hiscountry. The military authorities thereupon announced that if anythingof the sort was done again they would lay waste the quarter of the townwhere the act was committed. 

Some of the subordinate officers have since told us that von Jarotzkywas a fighting general, and had no business staying in a post requiringadministrative ability. The new man is cut out particularly for thissort of work, and is going to start a regular German administration. Functionaries are being brought from Berlin to take things over, and ina short time we shall, to all intents and purposes, be living in aGerman city. The first trains ran to-day in a halting fashion to Liègeand the German frontier. Perhaps we shall have a newspaper. 

Most distressing news has come through from Tamines. I had a long talkto-day with a trustworthy man from there, and his story was enough tomake one's blood run cold. He says that on the evening of thetwenty-first the Germans entered the village after a brush with Frenchtroops which were still in the neighbourhood. Infuriated by theresistance offered to their advance, they proceeded to vent their rageon the town. They shot down a lot of villagers, and arrested many more. A great many escaped to the country. A lot of houses were first sacked, and then burned. The orgy continued during the night, and through thenext day. On the evening of the twenty-second, something over fourhundred men were collected near the church and lined up to be shot. Thework was done for a time by a firing squad which fired into the crowdwith more or less system, but this was too slow, and finally arapid-fire gun was brought out and turned loose. Of course, a great manywere not killed outright and lay groaning among the dead. Now and thena German would put one out of his misery by a bayonet thrust. Otherssettled their own troubles by rolling themselves into the nearby river. Altogether over six hundred people were shot down, but it is hard to getany exact figures yet. After the shooting was over, other civilians werebrought out and compelled to bury the dead. My informant says that someof the scenes attending this duty were quite as poignant as the shootingitself, for some buried their own fathers and brothers. One man about tobe thrown into the trench was found to be still alive, but the Germandoctor, after a cursory examination, ordered him buried with the rest. The man had enough life left in him to raise his hand in appeal but thedoctor shrugged his shoulder and repeated his order. There were manyincidents, most of them horrible. The man who told the story seemedstill dazed and spoke quietly, with few adjectives and little emphasison anything he said. It was a bare recital of facts, and far more movingthan if he had striven for effect. 

Davis got back yesterday from his trip to the front, and we learned thathe had been through a perfectly good experience that will look well whenhe comes to writing it up, but one that gave him little satisfactionwhile it was in progress. He started off to follow the German army inthe hope of locating the English. After leaving Hal, some bright youngGerman officer decided that he was a suspicious-looking character, andought to be shot as an English spy. As a preliminary, they arrested himand locked him up. Then the war was called off while the jury sat onhis case. One of the officers thought it would be a superfluous effortto go through the form of trying him, but that they should shoot himwithout further to do. They began considering his case at eleven in themorning, and kept it up until midnight. He was given pretty clearly tounderstand that his chances were slim, and that the usual fate of spiesawaited him. He argued at length, and apparently his arguments had someeffect, for at three o'clock in the morning he was routed out and toldto hit the road toward Brussels. He was ordered to keep religiously tothe main road all the way back, on pain of being shot on sight, and toreport at headquarters here immediately on his arrival. By this time hewas perfectly willing to do exactly what was demanded by those inauthority, and made a bee-line back here on foot. He turned up at theLegation yesterday morning, footsore and weary, and looking like atramp, and told his story to an admiring audience. I was still away onmy little jaunt, and did not get it at first hand. The Minister took himdown to call on the General, and got them to understand that RichardHarding Davis was not an English spy, but, on the contrary, probably thegreatest writer that ever lived, not excepting Shakespeare or Milton. The General said he had read some of his short stories, and that hewould not have him shot. Just the same, he was not keen about having himfollow the operations. He is now ordered to remain in this immediateneighbourhood until further orders. To-day he had several interviewswith the General in an attempt to get permission to leave the country, but had no luck. The last we saw of Davis, he came in late thisafternoon to tell us that he did not know what to do next. He said thathe had been through six wars, but that he had never been so scared as hewas at that time. If he is allowed to get out of Belgium, I think thathe will not darken the door of General von Lüttwitz for some time tocome. 

I was surprised to learn that Hans von Herwarth, who used to be militaryattaché in Washington, and whom I knew very well, is here as Adjutant toour new Governor. I have not yet had time to get over to see him, butshall try to do so to-morrow. I am glad to have somebody like that hereto do business with. He is a real white man, and I anticipate a muchbetter time with him than with any other officer they could send here inthat capacity. 

Baron Capelle came in late this afternoon to tell me that the Germanswere bringing in a lot of priests on carts filled with cows and pigs, and were planning to hold them as hostages. One of them had called outand asked him to notify us that Monseigneur de Becker, Rector of theAmerican College at Louvain, was among these prisoners. He is the priestI went to see when I was in Louvain ten days ago. I had told him he wasperfectly safe, and scoffed at his fears. 

The Minister was out when this news came, but I sallied forth and triedto locate the Monseigneur. He was not to be found anywhere. When I gotback to the Legation, both the Minister and Villalobar were here and Itold them all about what had happened. The people of the town weregetting excited over the treatment that was being meted out to theirpriests, and it was in a fair way to result in serious trouble. BothMinisters made for the Ministry for Foreign Affairs, where the GermanGovernment is established, and before they left, had secured orders forthe release of all the hostages. A lot of these terrible things are doneby subordinate officers, and the people at the top seem only too anxiousto learn of such affairs and do what they can to remedy them. The dayhas been dreadful with stories of suffering and murder and pillage. 

Not only are we cut off from communication with the outside world, but alot of the ordinary conveniences of life have already disappeared. Wehave no newspapers, no trams, no taxis, no telephones. Milk is no longerto be had, and within a day or two we shall have no butter or eggs. Thenit will begin to look like a real siege. In a day or so I am to have alist of Jarotzky's demands for supplies, so that I can cheer myself withthoughts of what our life is to be like. 

There is bad news from Louvain. The reports we have received agree thatthere was some sort of trouble in the square before the Hôtel de Ville aday or two ago. Beyond that, no two reports are alike. The Germans saythat the son of the Burgomaster shot down some staff officers who weretalking together at dusk before the Hôtel de Ville. The only flaw inthat story is that the Burgomaster has no son. Some Belgians say thattwo bodies of Germans who were drunk met in the dusk; that one bodymistook the other for French, and opened fire. Other reliable peopletell with convincing detail that the trouble was planned and started bythe Germans in cold blood. However that may be, the affair ended in thetown being set on fire, and civilians shot down in the streets as theytried to escape. According to the Germans themselves, the town is beingwiped out of existence. The Cathedral, the Library, the University, andother public buildings have either been destroyed or have sufferedseverely. People have been shot by hundreds, and those not killed arebeing driven from the town. They are coming to Brussels by thousands, and the end is not yet. This evening the wife of the Minister of FineArts came in with the news that her mother, a woman of eighty-four, hadbeen driven from her home at the point of the bayonet and forced to walkwith a stream of refugees all the way to Tervueren, a distance of abouttwelve miles, before she could be put on a tram to her daughter's house. Two old priests have staggered into the ---- Legation more dead thanalive after having been compelled to walk ahead of the German troops formiles as a sort of protecting screen. One of them is ill, and it is saidthat he may die as a result of what he has gone through. 

 * * * * *

_August 28th. _--After lunch Blount and I decided to go out to Louvain tolearn for ourselves just how much truth there is in the stories we haveheard, and see whether the American College is safe. We were goingalone, but Pousette and Bulle, the Swedish and Mexican Chargésd'Affaires, were anxious to join us, so the four of us got away togetherand made good time as far as the first outpost this side of Louvain. 

Here there was a small camp by a hospital, and the soldiers came out toexamine our papers and warn us to go no farther, as there was fightingin the town. The road was black with frightened civilians carrying awaysmall bundles from the ruins of their homes. Ahead was a great column ofdull gray smoke which completely hid the city. We could hear the muffledsound of firing ahead. Down the little street which led to the town, wecould see dozens of white flags which had been hung out of the windowsin a childish hope of averting trouble. 

We talked with the soldiers for some time in an effort to get some ideaof what had really happened in the town. They seemed convinced thatcivilians had precipitated the whole business by firing upon the staffof a general who was parleying with the Burgomaster in the square beforethe Hôtel de Ville. They saw nothing themselves, and believe what theyare told. Different members of the detachment had different stories totell, including one that civilians had a machine gun installed on top ofthe Cathedral, and fired into the German troops, inflicting much damage. One of the men told us that his company had lost twenty-five men in theinitial flurry. They were a depressed and nervous-looking crew, bitteragainst the civil population and cursing their ways with greatearnestness. They were at some pains to impress upon us that allBelgians were _Schwein_, and that the people of Louvain were the lowestknown form of the animal. 

After talking the situation over with the officer in command, we decidedto try getting around the town to the station by way of the ring ofouter boulevards. We got through in good shape, being stopped a fewtimes by soldiers and by little groups of frightened civilians who werecowering in the shelter of doorways, listening to the noise of fightingin the town, the steady crackle of machine guns, and the occasionalexplosions. 

[Illustration: Entrance to the Rue de Diest, Louvain]

[Illustration: The dead and the living. A Belgian civilian and a Germansoldier]

They were pathetic in their confidence that the United States was comingto save them. In some way word has traveled all over Belgium that wehave entered the war on the side of Belgium, and they all seem tobelieve it. Nearly every group we talked to asked hopefully when ourtroops were coming, and when we answered that we were not involved, theyasked wistfully if we didn't think we should be forced to come in later. A little boy of about eight, in a group that stopped us, asked mewhether we were English, and when I told him what we were, he beganjumping up and down, clapping his hands, and shouting:

_Les Américains sont arrivés! Les Américains sont arrivés!_

His father told him to be quiet, but he was perfectly happy and clung tothe side of the car as long as we stayed, his eyes shining with joy, convinced that things were going to be all right somehow. 

About half way around the ring of boulevards we came to burning houses. The outer side of the boulevard was a hundred feet or so from thehouses, so the motor was safe, but it was pretty hot and the cinderswere so thick that we had to put on our goggles. A lot of the houseswere still burning, but most of them were nothing but blackened wallswith smouldering timbers inside. Many of the front doors had beenbattered open in order to start the fires or to rout out the people whowere in hiding. 

We came to a German ammunition wagon, half upset against a tree, whereit had been hurled when the horses had turned to run away. The tonguewas broken and wrenched out. Near by were the two horses, dead andswollen until their legs stood out straight. Then we began to see moreghastly sights--poor civilians lying where they had been shot down asthey ran--men and women--one old patriarch lying on his back in the sun, his great white beard nearly hiding his swollen face. All sorts ofwreckage scattered over the street, hats and wooden shoes, Germanhelmets, swords and saddles, bottles and all sorts of bundles which hadbeen dropped and abandoned when the trouble began. For three-quarters ofa mile the boulevard looked as though it had been swept by a cyclone. The Porte de Tirlemont had evidently been the scene of particularlybloody business. The telegraph and trolley wires were down; dead men andhorses all over the square; the houses still burning. The broad road wehad traveled when we went to Tirlemont was covered with wreckage anddead bodies. 

Some bedraggled German soldiers came out from under the gate andexamined our passes. They were nervous and unhappy and shook their headsgloomily over the horrors through which they were passing. They saidthey had had hardly a minute's sleep for the past three nights. Theireyes were bloodshot and they were almost too tired to talk. Some of themwere drunk--in the sodden stage, when the effect begins to wear off. They told us we could proceed in safety as far as the station, where wewould find the headquarters of the commanding officer. Here we couldleave the motor and learn how far we could safely go. This crowd variedthe wording a little by saying that the Belgians were all dogs and thatthese particular dogs were being driven out, as they should be, that allthat part of town was being cleared of people, ordered to leave theirhomes and go to Brussels or some other town, so that the destruction ofLouvain could proceed systematically. We thought at the time that theywere exaggerating what was being done, but were enlightened before wehad gone much farther. 

We continued down the boulevard for a quarter of a mile or so till wecame to the station. Sentries came out and looked through our passesagain. We parked the motor with a number of German military cars in thesquare and set off on foot down the Rue de la Station, which we hadadmired so much when we had driven down its length, just ten daysbefore. 

The houses on both sides were either partially destroyed or smouldering. Soldiers were systematically removing what was to be found in the way ofvaluables, food, and wine, and then setting fire to the furniture andhangings. It was all most businesslike. The houses are substantial stonebuildings, and fire will not spread from one to another. Therefore theprocedure was to batter down the door of each house, clean out what wasto be saved, then pile furniture and hangings in the middle of the room, set them afire, and move on to the next house. 

It was pretty hot, but we made our way down the street, showing ourpasses every hundred feet or so to soldiers installed in comfortablearmchairs, which they had dragged into the gutter from looted houses, till we came to a little crossing about half way to the Hôtel de Ville. Here we were stopped by a small detachment of soldiers, who told us thatwe could go no farther; that they were clearing civilians out of somehouses a little farther down the street, and that there was likely to befiring at any time. 

The officer in command spoke to us civilly and told us to stick close tohim so that we could know just what we ought to do at any time. He wasin charge of the destruction of this part of the town and had thingsmoving along smartly. His men were firing some houses near by and hestood outside smoking a rank cigar and looking on gloomily. 

We exchanged remarks with him in German for a few minutes, I limpingalong behind the more fluent Pousette and Bulle. Then I said somethingin an aside to Blount, and the officer broke into the conversation inperfectly good English. He turned out to be a volunteer officer fromHamburg, who had spent some thirty years in England and was completelyat home in the language. 

We then accomplished the formal introductions which are so necessary toGermans even at a time like this, and when we came to Bulle the officerburst into a rapid fire of questions, which ended in his proclaiming inrapture:

"Why, I knew your father in Hamburg and went to school with your UncleSo-and-so!"

Reminiscence went on as though we were about a dining table at home;minute inquiry was made into the welfare and activities of the Bullefamily from the cradle to the grave. On the strength of therespectability of Bulle's relatives we were then taken under theofficer's wing and piloted by him through the rest of our visit. 

From where we stood we could see down the street through the smoke, asfar as the Hôtel de Ville. It was still standing, but the Cathedralacross the street was badly damaged and smoke was rising in clouds fromits roof. The business houses beyond were not to be seen; the smoke wastoo dense to tell how many of them were gone. 

Machine guns were at work near by, and occasionally there was a loudexplosion when the destructive work was helped with dynamite. 

A number of the men about us were drunk and evidently had been in thatstate for some time. Our officer complained that they had had verylittle to eat for several days, but added glumly that there was plentyto drink. 

A cart, heaped high with loot, driven by a fat Landsturmer and pulled bya tiny donkey, came creaking past us. One of our party pulled his kodakfrom his pocket and inquired of our guardian in English: "May I take apicture?"

His intent evidently escaped the German, who answered cordially:

"Certainly; go ahead. You will find some beautiful things over there onthe corner in the house they are getting ready to burn. "

We kept our faces under control, and he was too much occupied with hisother troubles to notice that we did not avail of his kind permissionto join in the pillage. 

He was rabid against the Belgians and had an endless series of storiesof atrocities they had committed--though he admitted that he had none ofthem at first hand. He took it as gospel, however, that they had firedupon the German troops in Louvain and laid themselves open to reprisals. To his thinking there is nothing bad enough for them, and his chiefsatisfaction seemed to consist in repeating to us over and over that hewas going the limit. Orders had been issued to raze the town--"till notone stone was left on another, " as he said. 

Just to see what would happen I inquired about the provision of TheHague Conventions, prescribing that no collective penalty can be imposedfor lawless acts of individuals. He dismissed that to his ownsatisfaction by remarking that:

"All Belgians are dogs, and all would do these things unless they aretaught what will happen to them. "

Convincing logic!

With a hard glint in his eye he told us the purpose of his work; he cameback to it over and over, but the burden of what he had to say wassomething like this:

"We shall make this place a desert. We shall wipe it out so that it willbe hard to find where Louvain used to stand. For generations people willcome here to see what we have done, and it will teach them to respectGermany and to think twice before they resist her. Not one stone onanother, I tell you--_kein Stein auf einander!_"

I agreed with him when he remarked that people would come here forgenerations to see what Germany had done--but he did not seem to followmy line of thought. 

While we were talking about these things and the business of burning andlooting was pursuing its orderly course, a rifle shot rang out near by. Instantly every soldier seized his rifle and stood waiting for anindication as to what would happen next. In a few seconds a group ofsoldiers rushed into a house about a hundred feet away. There was asound of blows, as though a door was being beaten in; then a few shots, and the soldiers came out wiping the perspiration from their faces. 

"Snipers!" said our guide, shaking his fist at the house. "We have gonethrough that sort of thing for three days and it is enough to drive usmad; fighting is easy in comparison, for then you know what you aredoing. " And then almost tearfully: "Here we are _so_ helpless!"

While he was talking another shot rang out, and then there was a regularfusillade, which lasted for fifteen seconds or so; then an explosion. 

Bulle stood not upon the order of his going, but ran for the station, calling back:

"I've had enough of this. Let's get out and go home. "

Our friend, the officer, said Bulle was right, and that it would be thepart of wisdom for us all to fall back to the station, where we would benear the car in case anything happened. He started off at a good pace, and as we were in no mood to argue we went meekly along in his wake. Weovertook Bulle engaged in an altercation with a very drunken soldier, who wanted to see his papers and was insulting about it. Instead oftaking the easy course and showing his papers Bulle was opening a debateon the subject, when we arrived and took a hand. Our officer waded intothe soldier in a way that would have caused a mutiny in any other army, and the soldier, very drunk and sullen, retreated, muttering, to hisarmchair on the curb. We then moved on to the station. 

Outside the station was a crowd of several hundred people, mostly womenand children, being herded on to trains by soldiers, to be run out ofthe town. They seemed to be decently treated but were naturally in apitiable state of terror. Just inside the gates of the freight yard werea couple of women telling their troubles to a group of officers andsoldiers. They had both lost their husbands in the street-fighting, andwere in a terrible state. The officers and men were gathered about them, evidently distressed by their trouble, and trying to comfort them. Theyhad put the older woman in an armchair and were giving her a littlebrandy in a tea cup. And the same men may have been the ones who killedthe husbands. .. . 

We went on into the freight yards and were greeted by a number ofofficers with hopeful talk about a train coming from Brussels with food. We were given chairs and an orderly was despatched for a bottle of wineso that a drink could be given to Bulle, who said that after what he hadbeen through he would appreciate a glass of something comforting. 

We settled down and listened to the stories of the past few days. It wasa story of clearing out civilians from a large part of the town; asystematic routing out of men from cellars and garrets, wholesaleshootings, the generous use of machine guns, and the free application ofthe torch--the whole story enough to make one see red. And for ourguidance it was impressed on us that this would make people _respect_Germany and think twice about resisting her. 

Suddenly several shots rang out apparently from some ruins across thestreet and the whole place was instantly in an uproar. The lines ofcivilians were driven helter-skelter to cover--where, I don't know. Thestands of arms in the freight yard were snatched up, and in less timethan it takes to tell it, several hundred men were scattered behind anysort of shelter that offered, ready for the fray. 

I took one quick look about and decided that the substantial freightstation was the most attractive thing in sight. In no time I was inside, closely followed by my own crowd and a handful of soldiers. First, welay down upon the platform, and then, when we got our bearings, rolledover on to the track among a lot of artillery horses that were tetheredthere. 

Apparently a number of civilians, goaded to desperation by what they hadseen, had banded together, knowing that they were as good as dead, andhad determined to sell their lives as dearly as they could. They hadgathered in the ruins of the houses fronting on the station and hadopened up on us. There was a brisk interchange of shots, with anoccasional tinkle of broken glass and a good deal of indiscriminatecursing by the soldiers, who had taken refuge with us. 

The artillery horses did not welcome us very cordially and began to getrestive in a way that made us debate whether we preferred staying up onthe platform with a chance of being potted or staying under cover andbeing ingloriously trampled to death. A joint debate on this importantquestion kept us occupied for several minutes. We finally compromised byfishing down a few boxes from the platform and erecting a barricade ofsorts to protect us against any stray kicks. 

As we sat in the undignified position imposed on us by circumstances, weexchanged various frivolous remarks, not because we felt particularlygay, but because we had to do something to keep ourselves interested andto keep our courage up. Bulle resented this, and raised his head to lookat me reproachfully over the barricade, and say: "Don't talk like that;it is nothing short of tempting Providence. "

After a time Blount and I decided to make a reconnaissance in force andsee how the car was getting on. We crawled along the floor to a placefrom which we could see out into the square. The soldiers were flat ontheir stomachs behind a low wall that extended around the small circularpark in the centre of the square, and behind any odd shelter they couldfind. The car lay in the line of fire but had not been struck. We weresufficiently pessimistic to be convinced that it would go up in smokebefore the row was over, and took a good look at our shoes to seewhether they would last through a walk back to Brussels. 

Our officer came out from behind his barricade and showed us where theattacking force was concealed--at least he told us that they were thereand we were willing to take his word for it without going across thestreet to make a first-hand investigation. 

He tried to impress us with the black sinfulness of people who wouldfire upon the German troops, and called our particular attention to theproof now offered us that civilians had started the row by firing onGerman troops. According to the German story, which was the only one wehad heard, civilians had been hunted down like rats in garrets andcellars and shot down in cold blood in the streets when they soughtsafety in flight. To my mind it was not surprising that men driven todesperation by seeing their friends and neighbours murdered in coldblood, should decide to do any harm possible to the enemy. Three days ofthe reign of terror that had been described to us was enough to accountfor anything, and the fact that civilians were firing now did not in anysense prove that they were guilty of starting the trouble. For all wecould tell they may have started it or they may not, but firing by themthree days after the row began was no proof to any one with theslightest sense of the value of evidence. On the other hand, the storyfreely told us by the Germans as to their own behaviour, is enough tocreate the darkest presumptions as to how the trouble started, and wouldseem to place the burden of proof on them rather than on the Belgians. 

While we were talking about this there came another rattle of fire, andwe scuttled back to our shelter, among the horses. Every now and then asurly soldier with two huge revolvers came and looked over the ledge atus, and growled out: _Was machen Sie denn hier?_ followed by somedoubting remarks as to our right to be on the premises. As he wasevidently very drunk and bad-tempered I was not at all sure that hewould not decide on his own responsibility to take no chances and putus out of our misery. After several visits, however, he evidently foundsomething else more interesting, and came back to trouble us no more. 

When the row began a motor had been despatched toward Brussels to recallsome troops that had left a few hours before. Now and then our officercame in to tell us what he thought of their chances of getting back. 

On one of these visits, Blount remarked by way of airy persiflage, thatthat drink of wine that had been sent for was a long time coming. Anything as subtle as that was lost on our friend, for he walkedsolemnly away, only to reappear in a few minutes with a bottle andseveral glasses which he set up on the edge of the platform and filledwith excellent Burgundy. We stood up among the horses and drained abumper of the stuff, while the officer wandered back to his work. He hadgone calmly out into the thick of things to rescue this bottle, and tookit as a matter of course that we should claim the drink that had beenpromised us. 

Presently, with a good deal of noise, a fairly large force of troopscame marching down the boulevard, and took up positions around thestation. Our officer returned, waving a smoking revolver, and told us tolie down as flat as we could among the horses, and not to move unlessthey got restive. He said it looked as though an attempt would be madeto take the station by storm, and that there might be a brisk fight. 

However, there were only a few scattering shots, and then our friendcame back and told us that we had better get out and start for homebefore things began again. He added, however, that we must have thepermission of the commanding officer who was on the other side of thestation, but offered to pilot us to the great man and help us get thepermission. The way lay straight out into the square, in full view ofthe houses across the way, along the front of the station just behindthe troops and into the railroad yard on the other side. 

That station seemed about four miles long, and the officer was possessedof a desire to loiter by the way, recounting anecdotes of his schooldays. He would walk along for a few steps and then pause to tell Bullesome long and rambling yarn about his uncle. Bulle would take him by thearm and get him in motion again. Then the old chap would transfer hisconversational fire to another member of the party, and we were obligedalmost to pull him the length of the square. 

The commanding officer was a pleasant-faced little man who stood in theshelter of a water tank and received us in a puzzled way, as though hewondered what civilians were doing in that neighbourhood anyway. Permission was readily granted for us to leave, with the ludicrousproviso that we did so "at our own risk. " Then Bulle put everybody ingood humour by inquiring innocently if there was any danger. Everybodyburst into peals of laughter, and we were escorted to our car by thesame slow-moving officer, who insisted on exchanging cards with us andexpressing the hope that we should meet again, which we could nothonestly reciprocate. Then, after an hour and a half in the station, wegot away amid a great waving of hands. 

The boulevards were deserted save for the troops coming back into thetown. New houses were burning that had been intact in the afternoon. After passing the Porte de Tirlemont, we began to see peopleagain--little groups that had come out into the streets through acraving for company, and stood huddled together listening to thefighting in the lower part of the town. 

In harmony with the policy of terrorising the population, the Germanshave trained them to throw up their hands as soon as any one comes insight, in order to prove that they are unarmed and defenseless. And theway they do it, the abject fear that is evident, shows that failure tocomply with the rule is not lightly punished. 

Our worst experience of this was when in coming around a corner we cameupon a little girl of about seven, carrying a canary in a cage. As soonas she saw us, she threw up her hands and cried out something we did notunderstand. Thinking that she wanted to stop us with a warning of somesort, we put on the brakes and drew up beside her. Then she burst outcrying with fear, and we saw that she was in terror of her life. Wecalled out to reassure her, but she turned and ran like a hunted animal. 

It was hard to see the fear of others--townspeople, peasants, priests, and feeble old nuns who dropped their bundles and threw up their hands, their eyes starting with fear. The whole thing was a nightmare. 

We were dreadfully depressed, and rode along in silence until Bulleturned around from the front seat and inquired in a matter-of-factvoice:

"What sort of wine was that we drank at the station?"

We told him, and then he shook his head and said as though to himself:

"I drank a big glass of it, but I was so frightened that I didn't tasteit at all. "

That broke the edge of the strain we were under, and we had a good laughin which Bulle joined. 

And so back to the Legation without further mishap, to find everybodyworrying about us, and the Minister putting his foot down and announcingthat there were to be no more expeditions of the sort, no matter whatthe reason for them. 

 * * * * *

NOTE--The foregoing is an impression of one afternoon at Louvain, takenfrom a journal written at the time. It was intended to pass on thequestion of responsibility for precipitating the orgy of murder andbestiality indulged in by the German army from the 25th of August untilthe 30th, when orders were received from Berlin to stop the destructionand restore public order. 

Many subsequent visits to Louvain, and conversations with people whowere there when the trouble began, have only served to strengthen theimpression that the whole affair was part of a cold-blooded andcalculated plan to terrorise the civilian population. 

While we were there, it was frankly stated that the town was being wipedout; that its destruction was being carried out under definite orders. When the German Government realised the horror and loathing with whichthe civilised world learned of the fate of Louvain, the orders werecancelled and the story sent out that the German forces had tried toprevent the destruction, had fought the fire, and by good fortune hadbeen able to save the Hôtel de Ville. Never has a government lied morebrazenly. When we arrived, the destruction of the town was being carriedon in an orderly and systematic way that showed careful preparation. Theonly thing that saved the Hôtel de Ville was the fact that the Germantroops had not progressed that far with their work when the orders werecountermanded from Berlin. 

It was only when he learned how civilisation regarded his crimes, thatthe Emperor's heart began to bleed. 

The true facts as to the destruction of Louvain will startle theworld--hardened though it has become to surprise at German crimes. Unfortunately, however, it is impossible to publish the details at thistime without endangering the lives of people still in Belgium underGerman domination. But these people will speak for themselves when theGermans have been driven from Belgian soil, and they are once more freeto speak the truth. 

 * * * * *

During the afternoon Count Clary had come over and announced thatAustria-Hungary had declared war on Belgium, and that he had to leave atonce. He has turned his Legation over to us. I went around to see himlate in the evening, and made the final arrangements. This afternoon theDanish Minister came in and turned his Legation over to us, as heexpects to go in a day or two. That will make four Legations besides ourown under our protection. 

Austrian guns have been in action for some days, and now it has beenthought worth while to regularise the situation. The Austrian Ministerhas, therefore, under instructions from his Government addressed thefollowing note to the Belgian Government:

 _August 28, 1914. _

 "Whereas Belgium, having refused to accept the proposals made to her on several occasions by Germany, is affording her military assistance to France and Great Britain, both of which Powers have declared war upon Austria-Hungary, and whereas, as has just been proved (_no indication as to how or when it has been proved_), Austrian and Hungarian subjects in Belgium have been obliged to submit, under the very eyes of the Belgian authorities, to treatment contrary to the most primitive demands of humanity and inadmissible even toward subjects of an enemy State, therefore Austria is obliged to break off diplomatic relations and considers herself from this moment in a state of war with Belgium. I am leaving the country with the staff of the Legation, and am entrusting the protection of Austrian interests to the United States Minister in Belgium. The Austro-Hungarian Government is forwarding his passports to Count Errembault de Dudzeele. 

 CLARY. "

This is the first we have heard of any mistreatment of Austrians in thiscountry, but then they probably had to advance some sort of reason forgoing to war. [4]

[Footnote 4: The Belgian Government sent the following reply to theAustrian declaration of war. 

 _Antwerp, August 29, 1914. _

 Belgium has always entertained friendly relations with all her neighbours without distinction. She has scrupulously fulfilled the duties imposed upon her by her neutrality. If she has not been able to accept Germany's proposals, it is because those proposals contemplated the violation of her engagements toward Europe, engagements which form the conditions of the creation of the Belgian Kingdom. She has been unable to admit that a people, however weak they may be, should fail in their duty and sacrifice their honour by yielding to force. The Government have waited, not only until the ultimatum had expired, but also until Belgian territory had been violated by German troops, before appealing to France and Great Britain, guarantors of her neutrality, under the same terms as are Germany and Austria-Hungary, to coöperate in the name and in virtue of the treaties in defense of Belgian territory. 

 By repelling the invaders by force of arms, she has not even committed a hostile act as laid down by the provisions of Article 10 of The Hague Convention, respecting the Rights and Duties of Neutral Powers. 

 Germany has herself recognised that her attack constitutes a violation of international law, and being unable to justify it, she has pleaded her strategical interests. 

 Belgium formally denies the allegation that Austrian and Hungarian subjects have suffered treatment in Belgium contrary to the most primitive demands of humanity. 

 The Belgian Government, from the very beginning of hostilities, have issued the strictest orders for the protection of Austro-Hungarian persons and property. 

 DAVIGNON. ]

The ---- Chargé came around this afternoon to ask about getting toAntwerp, where he wants to flee for protection. He was very indignantbecause the Military Governor had refused to allow him to go. When Iasked him on what ground the permission had been refused, he said thatit had not exactly been refused, but that he could go only on his ownresponsibility. He wanted us to protest against this. I meanly suggestedto him that he would be in much more serious danger if he had an escortof German troops to take him to the Belgian lines, and he left in aterrible state of mind. 

Mr. Whitlock and the Spanish Minister went to call on the MilitaryGovernor this afternoon to get off some telegrams which he had promisedto send, and to talk over the general situation. After that they went tocall on the Burgomaster, and came back with a pretty good idea of whatwas happening in our fair city. 

The Governor loaded them up with a large budget of official news, showing that Germany was victorious all along every line; that she wasnot only chasing the French and English armies around in circles, butthat Uhlans were within forty kilometers of Paris, and that five Russianarmy corps had been beaten in Eastern Prussia. It really looks as thoughthings were going pretty badly for the Allies, but we have absolutelynothing but German news and cannot form an accurate opinion. 

The Germans are particularly bitter against the Belgian clergy andinsist that the priests have incited the people to attack the Germantroops and mistreat the wounded. So far as I can learn, this is utterrubbish. The authorities of the church have publicly exhorted the peopleto remain calm and to refrain from hostile acts, pointing out that anyprovocation would bring sure punishment from the German militaryauthorities. The priests I have seen have been at great pains to set anexample that the Germans should be the first to commend. 

The clergy has a tremendous influence in Belgium, and is sincerelyrespected. They will be a vital force in holding the people together intheir patriotic devotion, and in maintaining public tranquillity. 

A new Governor-General is to be sent us here. The Minister could notremember his name. I am curious. Von Lüttwitz will remain for thepresent at least. 

The Burgomaster reports that the inhabitants of Brussels are calm andthat there need be no fear of trouble unless they are allowed to gohungry. A committee has been formed to revictual the town, and isworking night and day. Monsieur Solvay has given a million francs, andother Belgians given large sums. Soup kitchens are being started for thepoor and the question of bringing food supplies from neutral countriesis being taken up and pushed with activity. These Belgians are admirablein the way they handle things of this sort. They all realise theimportance of keeping quiet so as to avoid any possibility of arepetition of the Louvain business. It would take very little to startsomething of the sort here and the result would be the same--thedestruction of the city. Naturally everybody is turning to and trying tohead off any excuse for violence. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, Sunday, August 30, 1914. _--Our place has got to be the localdiplomatic corner grocery, where all the village loafers come to dotheir heavy loafing. They bring in all the fantastic rumours that areabroad in the land, and discuss them with all solemnity. In the last dayor so we have had it "on the best authority" that the Queen of Hollandhas had her consort shot because of his pro-German sympathies; that theKaiser has given up all hope and taken refuge in Switzerland; that theUnited States had declared war on Germany and Austria; that the King andQueen of the Belgians had fled to Holland, and that all was over. Theseare just a few. 

Troops have been pouring through the town steadily all day on the way toVilvorde, where the Belgians are still fighting, and to the south, wherethere is heavy cannonading going on. The Belgians are making a big fighton the Antwerp road, evidently to hold the attention of one German armycorps and lighten France's load by just that much. It is a hopelessfight so far as they themselves are concerned, but it throws theircourage and fighting qualities into higher relief. 

We are now the pampered pets of both sides. The German troops cheer ourflag when the motor noses its way through them. The people of the townare equally enthusiastic, and many of them are wearing small Americanflags in their buttonholes. How long it will last there is no telling, but while it does, our work is made just that much easier. 

Lunched at the Palace Hôtel with Bulle and Blount. Riseis, the ItalianSecretary, came in and joined us. Bulle told him the story of our tripto Louvain with embellishments that made my eyes start from my head. Ihad not realised what a desperate adventure we had been on until I heardit as it should be told. It made the real thing seem mild. 

Before lunch we drove to Blount's to learn whether the cannonading tothe south was still going on. It was--heavy booming of German guns; noFrench guns to be heard. Late in the afternoon Blount and I drove offinto the country to see whether we could locate the fighting to thesouth. We got as far as Nivelles, but all was as peaceful as it shouldbe on a perfect Sunday afternoon. The people there were surprised thatanyone should have thought there was fighting there. It was still muchfarther to the south. We drove around in search of evidence of fighting, but could find none. And this after circumstantial accounts ofhand-to-hand struggle through all this part of the country!

 * * * * *

_August 31st. _--This morning began with a troop of people in to tell usthat the rough work was about to begin, and that Brussels was to go upin smoke. There is a good deal of unrest in the lower end of town andtrouble may break out at any time. Bad feeling has grown a good deal inthe past few days and one good row would throw the fat in the fire. Iwent through the rough part of town late this afternoon and foundpatrols everywhere, heavily armed and swaggering about in groups offour. For their own sake I hope the people will not do anything foolish. 

People are making another effort to get away and are not finding iteasy. At six this morning a crowd left here for Ninove, twentykilometers to the west. Twenty-five hundred of them clung all over thetrams that make the trip. At Ninove they walked a mile or so, carryingtheir belongings, and caught a train to Alost, where they changed foranother train for Ghent. Goodness knows how many changes they had aheadof them after that. The trip was supposed to end safely in Ostend sometime this evening. It usually takes two hours. 

Hearing that the train service was open and that boats were running fromOstend to Folkstone, we decided to verify the tidings and then get offsome of our people, who should have gone long ago. 

To make sure Blount and I motored down to Ninove after lunch to telephonethe Consul at Ostend and learn the true state of affairs. When we reachedNinove we found the station so packed with refugees that there was nogetting near the telephone bureau. The Chef de Gare, who had never in hislong and honourable career had such a mob to lord it over, was so puffedup that he could not get down near enough to earth to hear our questions, so we decided to proceed to Alost and try our luck there. 

We motored over in short order and got quick communication with theConsul at Ostend. He had very little news save that a lot of BritishMarines had been landed there and had to-day been taken away again. Hegave us what we wanted in the way of steamer information. 

I got the Consul-General at Antwerp on the telephone and learned thatall was well there. 

As I came out of the booth from this second call, I was held up by aGarde Civique, who inquired if I was the _Monsieur de l'automobile_. Hewould like to see my papers. Certainly. Then I remembered that I hadleft all my Belgian papers at the Legation and had nothing but papers inGerman from the military authorities. I showed them anyway. Before hecould examine us any further, three eager amateur Sherlocks camebursting into the room and took charge of the proceedings. The leaderpointed an accusing finger at Blount, and exclaimed, "You have come fromNinove!" Blount admitted it. "You had a third person in the car when youleft there!" "_Pas du tout. _" "On the contrary, I have three witnessesto prove it. " Aside from the fact that nobody could have got to Alost inthe time we had, it made no real difference how many people we had inthe car, and Blount said as much. Then our accuser changed his plan ofattack. "I observed you when you arrived, and you were speaking alanguage which was perhaps not German, but sounded like English. " "Itwas, " said Blount. "Aha, " triumphantly, "but you said you wereAmericans!"

By this time the Chef de Gare had come to answer our questions and wewaved our persecutors aside while we talked to him. They kept quiet andmeekly stood aside, as we bade them. While we talked with ourfunctionary, I looked out on the square and saw that we were a realsensation. The Garde Civique had been called out and was keeping theplace clear. The crowd was banked up solid around the other three sidesof the square. They looked hopeful of seeing the German spies broughtout and shot. By signing our names on a scrap of paper, which theamateurs compared with the signatures on different papers we had aboutus, we convinced them that we were harmless citizens, and were allowedto go. The crowd seemed greatly disappointed to see us walk out free. The Garde Civique let them loose as we got in the car, and they camethronging around for a good close look at us. 

We honk-honked our way through them, thanking our lucky stars we had nothad a worse time of it. 

At the edge of the town we looked up and saw two German aeroplanessnooping around. A minute later a crowd of people surged across thestreet to bar our way, shouting that we must go no farther, as theGermans were approaching the town and that it was dangerous to proceed. Two young officers came across the street to tell us in great glee thatthey had made a dash in a motor at the first German outpost and hadbrought in four prisoners. They were bursting with joy in their exploit, but by this time they may themselves be prisoners. 

In a few minutes we came to the first German outpost, and had our paperscarefully examined. From then on we were held up every few yards andnearly had our papers worn out from much handling. At one place a youngLieutenant looked over our papers and burst out into roars of laughterat the name of von Jarotzky. He called to other officers. They came up, looked at the signature, and also burst out into loud laughter. I askedthem what the joke was, but they were not telling. 

We got in about seven o'clock, without incident. 

Went to see von Herwarth after dinner on behalf of a poor Belgian womanwhose husband, a Major in the Grenadiers, is dangerously wounded and inthe military hospital at Antwerp. The Germans are going to send her upto-morrow on a motor with some Belgian officers, who are beingexchanged. I saw the aide-de-camp who is going through with the car andasked him to be nice to her. Then to her house, to shut up a lot of oldwomen of both sexes who were trying to dissuade her from going, on theground that the Germans would hold her as a hostage. I suppose she willbe off. 

Mrs. Bridges, [5] wife of the former British Military Attaché, was inthis evening for help. A British prisoner told of seeing Colonel Bridgesfall from his horse at Mons, mount again, ride a little way and fall. She cannot get to Mons, so we are getting her off to France via England, in the hope that she may find him on that side. 

[Footnote 5: Colonel Bridges was badly wounded at Mons, but escaped, recovered, was wounded again at Nieuport, but survived both, and havingreceived the rank of Lieutenant-General, was the military member of theBalfour Mission to the United States in 1917. ]

It is a pitiful business, and the worst of it is that they all think wehave some miraculous power to do anything we like for them. I only wishwe could. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 1, 1914. _--- The first thing this morning I had apow-wow with Hulse about how to handle the funds that are being gatheredto relieve the enormous amount of distress that we shall have to meethere. There is a good deal of it even now. All the big factories areclosed. Most of the shops have their shutters up, and the streets arefilled with idle people. Importations of foodstuffs, even from theoutlying districts, have stopped dead. Conditions are bad enough in allconscience, but they are nothing compared to what we have ahead, whencold weather comes on. 

A lot of bankers and big business men have got together to wrestle withthe financial problem. The Burgomaster has his people at work, trying toget their hands on foodstuffs and coördinate their work. 

I went to the Foreign Office and talked things over with von Herwarth. He straightened out some of the tangles, and we were able to get thingsmoving. 

I have no trouble with the higher officers at headquarters, but I nevergo there that I do not want to murder the large brutes ofnon-commissioned officers who guard the door. They wear large brassplates on their chest and look like bock-beer signs. They have a freeand careless way of booting everybody out the door and refusing tolisten to anybody. I get fighting mad every time I go there and thismorning got sufficiently roused to develop considerable fluency inGerman. I pictured to the large rough-neck some of the things that weregoing to happen to him if I was not let in; he was sufficientlyimpressed to permit me to stand on the sidewalk while my card was sentin. When I got in I made a few well-chosen remarks on the manners, ifany, of the watch dogs of the Ministry. 

From the Ministry I went to the Société Générale, where I was asked toattend a conference between the bankers of the city. There were ten ofthem in the big directors' room, and they worked to some purpose. M. Francqui, the director and leading spirit of the Société Générale, presided over the meeting. He explained the general situation simply andclearly, and stated what they had done and wanted to do. They had threepoints on which they wanted advice, and they were brought up anddisposed of one at a time. By twelve o'clock I got away, and felt thatthe hour I had put in there had been well spent. 

When I got back to the Legation, I found a nice Belgian who had norequest to make of us, but wanted to tell his story to somebody, and aterrible story it was, too. He had fitted up his château near Mons as aRed Cross hospital. During the battle there a week ago, 102 Britishwounded had been brought in. The Germans found the château a hindrancein their operations, so got it out of the way by battering down thewalls with artillery, and then throwing grenades into the building toset it on fire. There was great difficulty in getting the wounded outand hiding them in such shelter as was to be found. One man, at least, was burned alive in his bed. It seems incredible that Red Crosshospitals should be attacked, but stories come in from every side, tending to show that they are. 

Beside this man's property there is a railway crossing. When a trooptrain passed over it day before yesterday, there was an explosion likethe report of a rifle. The train was immediately stopped. The officer incommand announced that civilians had fired upon his train, and orderedall the men in the vicinity taken prisoners. Then, refusing to listen toexplanation or discussion, he had them all stood up against a wall andshot. When it was all over, he listened to explanations and learned thatthe report was that of a cap placed in the switch by the German railwaymen as a signal to stop the train before reaching the next station. Byway of reparation, he then graciously admitted that the civilians wereinnocent. But, as my caller said: "The civilians were also dead. "

Another pleasant thing the Germans seem to be doing is arrestingpeaceful citizens by hundreds and sending them back to Germany toharvest the crops. They will also reap a fine harvest of hatred forgenerations to come. 

Poor Bulle is in considerable doubt as to his status. For many months hehas not heard from his Government, if any, and has not been able to geta word as to whether he is Chargé d'Affaires or not. I told him to-daythat he had a rather unique situation as the representative of a countrywithout a Government to a Government without a country. He extracted achuckle from that. 

Blount made up his mind to leave for America this afternoon, by way ofOstend and England. His family was all ready to start, but when he wentdown to headquarters to get a _laisser-passer_ it was refused. Operations are apparently about to be started in _tout le bazar_, andthey don't want stray civilians seeing too much. Blount will now settledown here for the present. His loss is our gain. 

The Danish Minister was in again this afternoon. He is going away, andhas finally turned his Legation over to us. We now have four Legationsbesides our own--German, British, Austro-Hungarian, and Danish. 

One little thing the Germans have done here that is _echt Deutsch_ is tochange the clocks on the railway stations and public buildings to Germantime. Every other clock in town continues about its business in thesame old way, and the change only serves to arouse resentment. 

Another thing is, that on entering a town, they hold the Burgomaster, the Procureur du Roi and other authorities as hostages, to ensure goodbehaviour by the population. Of course the hoodlum class would likenothing better than to see their natural enemies, the defenders of lawand order, ignominiously shot, and they do not restrain themselves a biton account of the hostages. Just lack of imagination. 

 * * * * *

_September 2nd. _--A paper, smuggled through the lines from Antwerp thismorning, gives the news that the Queen has left for England, with theroyal children; adding, "she is expected back in a few days. " This moveis evidently in anticipation of the bombarding of Antwerp. 

Now and then a Belgian has the satisfaction of getting in a gentle digat the Germans; although, if the dig is too gentle, the chances are thedigee does not know it. Last week Countess Z----, aged eighty-four, whois living alone in her château, was obliged to put up a German Generaland his staff. She withdrew to her own rooms, and did not put in anappearance during the two or three days that they were there. When thetime came for them to leave, the General sent word that he would like tosee her. She sent back a message, asking to be excused. The General wasinsistent, however, and finally the little old lady came reluctantlydown the stairs into the great hall, stopping three or four steps fromthe bottom and gazing down upon her lodgers with a quizzical smile. They all clicked their heels and bowed, and then the General steppedforward a few paces and, in his best manner, said that they could not goaway without thanking her for all that had been done to make themcomfortable during the time they had had the honour of being her guests. When he had quite finished, the little old lady replied in her gentlesoft voice:

"_Messieurs, vous n'avez pas à me remercier. Je ne vous avais pasinvités. _"

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 2, 1914. _--A beautiful aide-de-camp ofField-Marshal von der Goltz turned up this afternoon, and announcedthat, if agreeable, His Excellency the Governor-General, would callto-morrow afternoon between four and five. We are looking forward with agood deal of interest to seeing the big man. He arrived yesterday, buthas kept so quiet that nobody knew he was here. The aide-de-camp nearlywept on my shoulder; said there was nobody in the General's party whoknew Brussels, and that they were having a terrible time to find theirway around the town. He'll probably have greater worries before he getsthrough. 

We have at last heard from McCutcheon, Cobb, Lewis, Bennett, etc. Atelegram came to-day from the Consul at Aix-la-Chapelle, asking that welook after their baggage at the Palace Hotel. From this we judge thatthey were arrested and sent back to Germany on a troop train. They lefthere for Mons, and goodness only knows what adventures they have beenthrough since we last saw them. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 3, 1914. _--This afternoon, at four o'clock, von derGoltz (Field-Marshal Baron von der Goltz Pacha, to be exact) arrivedwith a staff of seven officers to make a formal call. A crowd quicklygathered in the street, as their big gray military cars snorted up tothe door. All the neighbourhood was in a great state of excitement. Thegreat man is pretty old and doddery, wears spectacles about an inchthick, and a large collection of decorations. His staff was alsobrilliant in decorations and silver helmets, etc. I met them at the footof the stairs, and escorted them up. The Marshal is apparently blind asa bat, for he never turned on the landings and would have walkedstraight into the walls if I had not steered him around the corners. 

After one good look we decided that he was to be a figure head and leavethe real work to the troop of officers and functionaries he had broughtwith him. 

It was supposed to be a purely formal call, but the old gentleman seemedto have no thought of leaving, and did not budge for half an hour. Theconversation was not thrilling. 

They finally left after much clicking of heels, and the bemonocled CountOrtenburg nearly broke his neck by tripping over his sword. However, wegot them safely out of the house, while all the servants leaned out ofthe windows and took in the show. 

The new Governor-General has addressed a Proclamation to the Belgianpeople, and has had it posted on the walls:

 PROCLAMATION. 

 His Majesty, the Emperor of Germany, after the occupation of the greater part of Belgian territory, has been pleased to appoint me Governor-General in Belgium. I have established the seat of the General Government in Brussels. 

 By His Majesty's orders, a civil administration has been established with the General Government. His Excellency Herr von Sandt has been made Chief of this Administration. 

 The German armies advance victoriously in France. My task will be to preserve quiet and public order in Belgium. 

 Every act of the population against the German military forces, every attempt to interfere with their communications with Germany, to trouble or cut railway, telegraph or telephone communications, will be punished severely. Any resistance or revolt against the German administration will be suppressed without pity. 

 It is inevitable in war that the punishment of hostile acts falls not only upon the guilty but also on the innocent. It is the duty of all reasonable citizens to exercise their influence with the turbulent elements of the population to restrain them from any infraction of public order. Belgian citizens desiring to return peaceably to their occupations have nothing to fear from the German authorities or troops. So far as is possible, commerce should be resumed, factories should begin to work, and the crops harvested. 

 BELGIAN CITIZENS

 I do not ask any one to forego his patriotic sentiments, but I do expect from all of you a sensible submission and absolute obedience to the orders of the General Government. I call upon you to show confidence in that Government, and accord it your co-operation. I address this summons particularly to the functionaries of the State and of the communes who have remained at their posts. The greater your response to this appeal, the greater the service you will render to your country. 

 The Governor-General, BARON VON DER GOLTZ, _Field-Marshal. _

 _Brussels, September 2, 1914. _

At about five o'clock, Bulle came along, and we went for a long walktogether--the first time I have tried anything of the sort since the warbegan. We tramped out to the Bois and made a swing around the circle, not getting back until half-past seven, when we repaired to the PalaceHotel and had dinner with several of the colleagues. When von der Goltzleft us, he had started for the Spanish Legation; but we learned fromthe Spanish Secretary that he had never arrived. Instead, at the lastminute, an aide-de-camp had come clanking in to express His Excellency'sregrets that he was unable to come, and say that he would have to deferhis visit until a later date. Something happened to him after he leftour Legation. 

X---- had an experience yesterday which made him boiling mad. He lefttown in the afternoon with his Consul, to go to Alost for telegrams andletters. He was in a car flying his flag, and had his _laisser-passer_from the German military authorities. Near Assche, he was stopped by anoutpost, and told he could not go any further. He accepted this in goodpart, and said he would go back. At this point, an old turkey gobbler ofa General arrived and lit into him for being there. He replied that hehad done nothing to which exception could be taken; that his papers werein order, and that he was ready to return at the first indication fromthe military authorities. This seemed to enrage the old soldier whoannounced that they would do nothing of the sort; that they wereprisoners of war and would be sent back under armed guard. X----protested that this was an outrage against the representative of afriendly country, but in spite of this two armed soldiers were placedin the car with them and another beside the driver, and they werebrought back to town as prisoners. By dint of arguments and threats theywere taken to headquarters instead of jail, and succeeded in seeingGeneral von Lüttwitz who piled on the excuses. It does you no good tohave legitimate business and papers in order if it suits some apoplecticofficer to clap you into jail. 

One of the officers I saw to-day told me that the Germans weredeliberately terrorizing the country through which they passed. It is aperfectly convincing explanation of German doings in this country, but Idid not think they were prepared to admit it so frankly. This frankfellow made no claim that civilians had attacked the German troops; hisonly observation was that they might do so unless they were socompletely cowed that they dared not raise their hands. He emphasisedthe fact that it was not done as a result of bad temper, but as part ofthe scheme of things in general. For my information, he remarked that inthe long run this was the most humane manner of conducting war, as itdiscouraged people from doing things that would bring terriblepunishment upon them. And yet some of these Belgians are ungratefulenough to complain at being murdered and robbed. 

 * * * * *

_September 4th. _--Autumn is coming with little gusts of wind and fallingleaves. Clouds are thick, and there is a sort of hidden chill in theair. It is depressing in itself, and makes us think with some dismay ofwhat is ahead of the millions of men who are in the field, if the war isto continue into the winter as seems probable. 

I am sure there is something big in the air to-day. For several daysthere has been a growing nervousness at headquarters. For four daysthere has been no official proclamation of German victories. Persistentrumours come in of large numbers of British troops between here and thecoast, advancing in the general direction of Brussels. X----'s arrest, while on a trip to Alost, looks as though the Germans had some reasonfor keeping people from getting out that way with knowledge of militaryconditions here. Another thing. We were to have returned the call of vonder Goltz to-day at noon. Between here and the Spanish Legation yesterday, _something_ happened. He never got to the Spanish Legation. This morningwe got a message from the État-Major that von der Goltz had "telegraphed"to ask that we should postpone our call. Where he is, nobody would say. The officer who brought the message merely stated that he had beencalled away in great haste, and that it was not known when he wouldreturn. Troops are marching through the town in every direction, and inlarge numbers. Supply trains and artillery are creaking through theplace night and day, and we are awakened nearly every morning either bythe crunching of the heavy siege pieces or the singing of large bodiesof troops as they march through the streets. Every day we realise moreand more the enormous scale on which the operations are being conducted. It seems tremendous here, and we are seeing only a small part of onesection of the field of operations. 

Privately, the Germans continue to assure us that they are winning allalong the line. They say that they have taken the whole of the firstline of defences in France with the single exception of Maubeuge, wherethere has been long and heavy fighting and where the result stilltrembles in the balance. In addition to this they claim to have taken apart of the second line of defences. They say that the French Governmenthas removed to Bordeaux, which seems quite possible, and even sensible. They tell us all these things every time that we go over to the GeneralStaff, but they do not publish anything about it. 

A British Red Cross doctor was in to-day and told us some items ofinterest. He said that he had been assigned to care for the woundedprisoners who were being brought back from France on their way toGermany, and that he had seen all the British prisoners who had beenbrought back by way of Brussels--about three thousand in all. He saidthat they were in good spirits and were sure that things would come outright in the end. There were the remnants of the Argyle and SutherlandHighlanders, who went into action something over a thousand strong andcame out only a handful. 

I made two attempts to see Herwarth to-day but was kept on the sidewalkand in the courtyard by the big green dragons who guard the entrance toheadquarters. After the second attempt I returned to the Legation andtelephoned him that I should like to see him when he could get itthrough the heads of these people that we were not tramps. He was verynice and apologetic and had all the officers in the German army out inthe street waiting for me when I went back for the third time. All thesentries were blown up and given the strictest sort of instructionsthat I was to be passed along without question whenever I appeared. Iwas also given another _Passierschein_ to add to my collection, directing everybody to let me pass wherever I wanted to go. In view ofthe fact that a lot of our work here is in behalf of German subjects, this is about the least they could do. 

Some news has been brought down from Antwerp that makes it seemnecessary for me to go there and get back again before the siege begins. I had hoped to get away this morning but have not yet been able to get adecision as to exactly what is to be done. I now hope to get away afterlunch. 

I spent all yesterday afternoon enciphering a telegram which I must getoff either through Holland or Antwerp. We are able to send nothing butopen messages over the military wire through Berlin and I have a strongsuspicion that these are being censored. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 7, 1914. _--Did not get off to Antwerp to-day buthope to make it by to-morrow noon. There was too much going on, butarrangements are being made for a _laisser-passer_, etc. , and Ianticipate no trouble beyond being shot or made prisoner. 

Gherardi[6] came in this morning for a call and then left for Maubeuge, which the Germans had arranged to capture during the day. They seemedvery sure of it, but I would not be surprised to see him come sailingback without having seen the surrender. 

[Footnote 6: American Naval Attaché at Berlin. ]

Baron von der Lancken, of the Foreign Office in Berlin, called thismorning. He is here to handle relations with the Foreign Ministersremaining in Brussels. As we have had the care of German interests theyall come here first and our position is better than that of any otherLegation in the country. We have things on a working basis. 

 * * * * *

_September 8th. _--Last night, after dinner, I trotted around and calledon the wives of some of the Belgian officials to see whether there wasany news of them that I could give to their husbands in Antwerp. I foundMadame Davignon, the wife of the Minister for Foreign Affairs, in herson's home, peacefully working away on clothes for the wounded. She toldme all the news of the house so that I could repeat it to her husband. She is as calm as you please and far from despairing. 

Madame de Broqueville, the wife of the Prime Minister, turned her houseinto a Red Cross hospital at the outbreak of hostilities; it is abeautiful big place. Of course there are practically nothing but Germanwounded in the house now, but the good lady conquers her naturalfeelings and has them as well looked after as though they were of herown race. I went in in an apologetic mood for intruding on her at solate an hour, but she had lots to say and I stayed on for a long time. It did her good to talk, and I was so overawed by her courage and poisethat I sat and listened in silent admiration. The wives of the CabinetMinisters and other officials have shown wonderful nerve and arestanding right up to their duty. 

Count and Countess de X had an interesting story to tell of theirexperiences when the first armies went through. When the war broke outthey were at their château and were caught by the first onrush oftroops. Their fine cellars were emptied for the benefit of the invader, but nothing more serious happened to them until the second wave camealong. Then there was a demand for more wine. As all the wine had beencarried away they could not comply. The Germans were convinced that theywere being fooled, and searched the place very carefully. Finally theyimprisoned the X's for three days in the cellar and then brought themforth and stood them up before a firing squad and threatened to shootthem unless they told where the wine was hidden. At the critical momenta big gray military car rolled up, and to their considerable relief theysaw that one of the occupants was a German princeling, who had formerlybeen their guest on several occasions. They called out to him, and byhis orders were immediately released. After expressing their thanks tohim they went into the château to find that soldiers were engaged inpacking up their fine collections of enamels and porcelains to ship themto Germany. Another appeal to the Prince, who was most sympathetic. Hewas a practical and resourceful man, and said:

"Of course I'll stop this, but you will understand that our men wouldlike to keep some little souvenir of the war in Belgium. That would behard to prevent. But I would suggest that you pick out all the piecesthat you value most and pack them away in that large wardrobe. Then I'lldo the rest. "

Madame de X was, of course, delighted with this, and scurried aboutgathering together the finest pieces and packing them carefully into thebig wardrobe. She kept it up as long as there was a nook or crannywhere odd pieces could be put, and then reported progress to the Prince. 

"Are you sure that all the best pieces are there?" says he. 

"All that could be packed there, " answers Madame de X. 

"Good, " says the Prince, and then turning to his orderly: "Have thatwardrobe sent to Berlin for me. "

The way the German army cleaned out the wine of the country was arevelation to everybody. They would not take what they needed for theday's drinking but would clear out whole cellars at a time and load whatwas not drunk onto carts to be carried away. The result was that peoplewho had a little warning had recourse to all sorts of ingenious tricksto save some of their store. There was one bright man in the province ofNamur who removed his stock of wine--all except a few thousand bottlesof new wine--and deposited them in the ornamental pond near his château. The Germans arrived a few hours afterward and raised a great fog becausethey were not satisfied with the amount of wine they found. The owner ofthe château had discreetly slipped away to Brussels and they could notdo anything to him. However, they tapped all the walls for secret hidingplaces and went over the park to see if anything had been buried--all invain. The next morning, however, the pond was covered with labels whichhad soaked off and floated to the surface, and after draining the pondthe whole stock was carted away. 

Madame B----, who was there, has an interesting souvenir which sheproposes to keep if possible. During the first days of the war herchâteau was occupied by a lot of officers, who got gloriously drunk andsmashed up pretty well everything in the drawing-room and dining-room. One of them, with a fine sense of humour, took a piece of hard chalk andwrote on the top of her piano in large letters: _Deutschland überalles!_ The crowd left the place in the morning without trying to covertheir traces, and Madame B---- came in to put things to rights. The firstthing she did was to get a large piece of plate glass to cover the topof the piano so that the legend would not be effaced, and over that sheplaced an ordinary piano cover so that no future visitor would beinclined to erase the inscription. When the war is over this will be aninteresting reminder of her visitors. 

This morning I was ready to start for Antwerp. My _laisser-passer_ hadbeen promised for ten o'clock. When it did not come by that hour, I wentup to see Baron von der Lancken who had agreed to attend to the matter. He received me most graciously, told me how delighted he was to see me, how it pleased him to see that we came to him with our little troubles, etc. He kept off the subject of the _laisser-passer_ as long as hecould, but when he could stave it off no longer he said that he must askme to see von Herwarth, who had been placed in charge of all mattersregarding passports, etc. I made a blue streak over to Herwarth'soffice, and saw him after a little delay. He kept me as long as hecould, and told me all that he knew about the war and perhaps a greatdeal more. When we got down to the subject of my visit he said that vonder Lancken was mistaken, that passports could be granted only byColonel von Claer who had his office about a block away. I began tosmell a rat about this time, but kept plugging away. I spent an hour anda quarter in the antechamber of the Colonel, being unable to get to himor to any of his officers. It was all part of a game. Both von derLancken and Herwarth harped upon the danger of the trip to Antwerp, advised against it and told how terribly they would feel if anythingwere to happen to me. I asked each of them point blank if theycontemplated an attack while I was there. They both avoided the subject, but said that with the situation as it was now it was impossible to tellfrom one moment to another what might happen. I saw that they wereundecided about what was going to happen next, and that until they didknow they did not intend to let me go. They naturally do not wish tohave anything happen to me or anyone else connected with the Legation, so I feel entirely safe about going. 

After lunch I went back to the siege and stayed until my friend, theColonel, left by the fire-escape or some equally desperate way so as toavoid seeing me. 

Von der Goltz had sent word to the Minister that he was coming here fortea this afternoon, and wanted to meet the Spanish Minister. That wasour opportunity, and the Minister was all primed with what he was to sayto the old chap. They beat us to it, however. The problem had evidentlybeen decided since I saw von der Lancken in the morning, for he greetedme with the news that the _laisser-passer_ would be around in the courseof the evening. He added that the General was anxious to send one of theBelgian Ministers of State to Antwerp, and would appreciate it if Iwould take him with me. He is Count de Woeste, the man who has alwaysfought against having an army, on the ground that Belgium was so fullyguaranteed by her treaties that it was unnecessary. Baron von derLancken says that they will make out a _laisser-passer_ on which he willbe included, and that the military authorities will mark out the routeby which we had best go, so as to avoid running into trouble. I imagineit will take us by way of Termonde and St. Nicolas. 

The crowd that came to tea included von der Goltz, Pacha, Baron von derLancken, Herr von Sandt, and Count Ortenburg--a scion of a mediatisedBavarian family. They told us of all the glorious triumphs of the Germanarmy, and of the terrible drubbing that was in store for their enemies. They stayed on for about an hour. 

When they left, I escorted the old man to his car. Before he climbed in, he looked me over curiously and remarked: "_Tiens, c'est fous qui faîtesce foyage à Anfers! Four afez peaucoup de gourage. Che tacheraid'arranger un petit entr'acte pour fous être agreaple. Mais il vautrefenir aussitot gue bossible!_" They evidently intend to hold off for aday to await certain developments, and I am to get the benefit of thedelay. 

The Marshal also told us that Maubeuge had fallen, and that they hadmade forty-five thousand prisoners. It seems almost incredible that theFrench and English would have left that many men at Maubeuge when theyknew that it was bound to fall. Perhaps we shall find that this is notaltogether accurate. They say nothing about what is happening inAustria. The news from England and Antwerp is to the effect that theRussians are giving the Austrians a hard time of it. 

This afternoon the German headquarters issued an order prohibiting thebringing of newspapers to Brussels from the outside world, andannouncing that any one who brings newspapers here or is found withpapers in his possession will be severely punished. Two German paperswill be distributed by the authorities, and everything else is taboo. They evidently intend that their own version of passing events shall bethe only one to get out here. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 13, 1914. _--Ever since the 9th I have been off onmy little jaunt to Antwerp, and have not been able to get a line onpaper. 

I was not at all sure that I was going to get away at all, until I gotdown to the Legation on Wednesday morning and found my _laisser-passer_, signed by von der Goltz, waiting for me--another to add to my alreadylarge and interesting collection. With it was a letter from my friendand well-wisher, Baron von der Lancken, who said that an officer wouldbe assigned to accompany us as far as the German outposts. He suggestedthat I take along a large white flag to be hoisted over the motor forthe run between the lines. The note and _laisser-passer_ had arrived atthe Legation about one o'clock in the morning, and had looked soimportant that the slaves waked the Minister from a deep sleep toreceive them. 

[Illustration: Pass issued by Field-Marshal von der Goltz to enable Mr. Gibson to pass through the German lines to Antwerp. 

 Passierschein =============

 für den ersten Sekretär der Gesandtschaft der Vereinigten Staaten von Amerika zu Brüssel

 herrn Hugh Gibson

 und den Königlich Belgischen Staatsminister

 herrn Woeste, die sich nach Antwerpen begeben, von wo sie am 10. September d. J. Nach Brüssel zurückzukehren beabsichtigen. 

 Bei der Rückreise von Antwerpen nach Brüssel werden die vorbezeichneten herren begleitet sein von dem ersten Sekretär der hiesigen Spanischen Gesandtschaft, Marquis de Faura

 und einem oder zwei weiteren belgischen Herren, deren Namen noch nicht angegeben werden künnen. 

 Die herren sind frei und ungehindert passieren und repassieren zu lassen. Jeder Beistand ist ihnen zu gewahren. 

 Brüssel, den 9. September 1914

 Der Generalgouverneur in Belgien. ]

When I got to the office I found that Villalobar had not sent over hiscontribution of letters, so I ran up to the Legation and saw him. Hebade me farewell as though I were off to certain death, and loaded mewith a large bundle of letters and telegrams. 

When I got back to the shop, I found my fellow-passenger, the Count deWoeste, waiting for me. He is a leader of the Catholic party which hasbeen in power in Belgium for the past thirty years, and, although he isseventy-five years old, he is still a big figure in the little country. He behaved very well on the trip, and if I were a Belgian citizen Ishould vote for him on account of his good nerve. 

We bowled off to headquarters, where I was mightily pleased to find thatvon Herwarth had assigned himself to the duty of taking us up to theoutposts--just for a visit. It was the only satisfactory one I have hadwith him since he came. At headquarters there were always too manyinterruptions. My old travelling companion had a hard time to keephimself in hand and not enter upon a joint debate upon the war, itscauses and justification. He did well, however, and my two passengersparted on good terms, even going to the extraordinary length of shakinghands at the outpost. 

A big military motor, filled with armed men, was sent ahead to act asguide, and we followed along closely behind in a cloud of dust. 

From the outskirts of Brussels right up to the German outposts atHofstade, the fields were filled with German troops of everysort--infantry, lancers, heavy artillery, and even three or four largedetachments of sailors in blue blouses and caps. All the men, exceptthe sailors and a few of the Landsturm who wear conspicuous blueuniforms, were in the new greenish grey, which is about the finest colorthat has yet seen active service. Frequently we drove several hundredyards beside a field before noticing that it was filled with soldiers. Several of the villages between Dieghem and Hofstade were partiallyburned, and there were evidences of shell fire--which to these peasantsmust be a perfectly convincing substitute for hell-fire--and of fightingat really close quarters. Between Perck and Hofstade, the fields werecovered with deep entrenchments, and over some of these were stuck dummyheads to draw hostile fire. Some, on the other hand, were fitted withBelgian caps picked up on the battle-field, evidently for the purpose ofinducing Belgian troops to approach for a closer look before firing. Most of the big trees along the road had been cut down, and many housesrazed to the ground so as to have a cleaner sweep for the artillery. AtDieghem, the German pilot-car picked up a naval officer who was toaccompany us as far as the outposts and to inspect his men on the wayback. 

On the outskirts of Hofstade, under a brick railway bridge, we found thelast German troops. They had some hard fighting here at the time of thelast Belgian sortie, and the bridge and the surrounding houses showedevidences of shell fire. 

[Illustration: A street in Louvain]

[Illustration: Fixing on the white flag for the dash between the lines]

[Illustration: Refugees from the villages near the Antwerp forts]

[Illustration: Arrival in Antwerp of refugees from Malines]

I was rather against putting up the white flag, but both Herwarth andthe naval officer were most insistent that I should do so, saying thatthe country between the lines was filled with patrols, both Belgian andGerman; that they felt that hostilities were to be commenced at anymoment, and that any one who ventured into the district between thelines would stand a fine chance of being shot unless he carried aconciliatory emblem. They rigged up a long pole on the side of the carwith a white flag about six feet square, and bidding a glad farewell tothe representatives of Hohenzollern and Company, we started out to feelour way into Malines. About 500 yards beyond the bridge we sighted twoBelgian bicycle patrols who, on seeing us, jumped off their machines andran into an abandoned farmhouse. Knowing that they were at high tension, we crept up very slowly so that they might have a good look at us beforetrying their marksmanship. They were peeking over the window-ledge, withtheir rifles trained at us; but after a good look at the black clothesand white whiskers of M. De Woeste they pulled in their weapons andwaved us to go ahead. About a kilometer farther on, we came around aturn in the road and nearly ran into the first Belgian outpost--six menand an officer. As we came around upon them they scurried behind stonewalls and trees, and gave us the usual pleasant greeting of levelledrifles. As the most prudent things to do under such circumstances, thecar was stopped, and I went ahead to parley. The officer proved to beyoung Z----. He turned quite white when he got a good look at me, andremarked that it was fortunate they had not had a sight of us fartherdown the road, as we would certainly have been filled with lead. 

He said that the Germans had tried three times that morning to getthrough the lines in cars flying the white flag, in one instance atleast, with a machine-gun in the car. As a result of this, the outpostshad orders not to take any chance for the rest of the time interveningbefore the attack which was expected to begin at any minute. 

Far be it from me to suggest that our friends had me put up the whiteflag, so as to offer proof of the Belgian savagery in firing on thewhite flag. 

After this little experience, we took in our white flag and made therest of our trip without trouble. We found outposts about every hundredyards, and were stopped at the point of the rifle each time; but as wegot farther away from the outer lines the behaviour of the posts wasnoticeably less nervous, and when we got into Malines the mere sight ofour papers was sufficient to let us freely through. 

Since my last trip, the Belgians have been working steadily at theirpreparations for defence, and have accomplished wonders. Their largetracts of land, some of them forming natural routes, for entry betweenthe forts, have been inundated with water from the canals so as to bequite impassable. Tremendous barbed wire entanglements form a broadbarrier all around the outer and inner fortifications; they are so thickand so strongly braced that artillery fire would be practically uselessagainst them, and cutting with wire nippers would be so slow that itcould not be accomplished without a horrible loss of men. 

There are any number of huge searchlights placed on the fortificationsto sweep the skies for Zeppelins. Since my last visit, one Zeppelin hadsucceeded in getting over the town, but was surprised and dropped itswhole cargo of 15 bombs in a distance of a few hundred yards, taking nolives and doing little material damage. Since then, several big crafthave appeared at night, but have always been frightened away by thesearchlights and the fire of the small vertical guns which have beenready for them. 

All the villages which cluster around the fortifications have been razedto the ground, and the avenues of big trees have been cut down; it is apretty dreadful sight. 

I left M. De Woeste at the Grand Hôtel, where the Cabinet is staying, and then made for the Saint Antoine. Had lunch with Sir Francis Villiersand Colonel Fairholme, and got my first real news since the Prussianheadquarters stopped issuing bulletins of German victories. Sir Francisshowed me the telegrams he had received about the German check andretreat in France; and Prince Koudacheff, the Russian Minister, whojoined us for coffee, vied with him by showing me his telegrams aboutthe Russian advance in Eastern Prussia and in Austria. 

After luncheon, I had some pow-wows on the subject that had brought me, and went to see various people for whom I had messages. They are a lotmore cheerful than the last time I was in Antwerp, and are ready foranything. 

From the Foreign Office, I went to the Consulate General, where I founda mountain of letters and telegrams. Got off my cables, and answered asmuch of the other correspondence as was absolutely necessary--no more. 

On my way back to the hotel, I ran into General Jungbluth coming out ofthe Palace, and was promptly hauled inside for gossip. 

The Queen, who has very properly come back from England, walked in on usand stopped to hear the news from Brussels. 

I got back to the hotel, and found all the colleagues waiting for me tohear the latest news from Brussels. I played my part, and was nearlytorn to pieces in their eagerness for news from the town where there isnone. They were all there except the Papal Nuncio, who is most unhappyin the midst of war's alarms and hardly budges from the episcopalpalace. 

After dinner I was again asked to go to the Grand Hôtel to see the PrimeMinister. He had nothing startling to say, but was anxious to know whatwas going on in Brussels. He showed me his telegrams from France, England and Russia, and his maps with the recent movements worked outwith little flags. 

Monsieur de Brocqueville told me an interesting incident that had takenplace at Ghent. It seems that when the Germans arrived there, they sentin an officer and several soldiers to arrange for requisitions, etc. , apromise having been given that they would not be molested. Of course, the whole town was on the _qui vive_ and everybody had been warned torefrain from incurring their displeasure. Just as the German motorpassed in front of our Consulate, a Belgian armoured car came chargingin from Antwerp, knowing nothing of the presence of the Germans, andupon seeing the enemy uniform, opened fire, wounding the officer and oneof the men. 

That was enough to start things, and the town would probably be in ruinsto-day but for the quick thinking and action of Van Hee, the AmericanVice-Consul. He plunged down the staircase, seized the Burgomaster, whohappened to be present, pushed him into a motor with the wounded men andwent straight to the German headquarters to explain that the attack hadbeen made by two men from Antwerp who knew nothing of the agreementreached between the city and the German forces, and to plead that noreprisals should be made upon the city. The general said that he wasprepared to accept the statement of the Vice-Consul on this matter, andthat he would not therefore visit retribution on the town if therequisitions which he had demanded were promptly furnished. Therequisitions were heavy, and he was apparently afraid that they mightnot be sent. He said that he would send in troops to occupy the townuntil the supplies requisitioned were actually in his possession, butfinally agreed to refrain from doing so on condition that theVice-Consul should give his word of honour that the supplies should beforthcoming. 

Van Hee took this responsibility, and the General agreed to keep histroops outside the town. When they got back to Ghent, the MilitaryGovernor disavowed the arrangement on the ground that the Burgomasterhad no right to enter into an agreement with the Germans and that he, asMilitary Governor, was the only one with any authority to deal withthem. He therefore declared that no supplies should be sent. TheBurgomaster telegraphed the Prime Minister in Antwerp, and placed theentire situation before him, and Monsieur de Brocqueville promptlytelegraphed back that since the American Vice-Consul had given his wordof honour to the German General it was impossible to disavow theagreement, and that the supplies should be sent out immediately. Thiswas a pretty high stand for the Belgians to take, but they feel that VanHee saved Ghent from destruction, and are correspondingly grateful tohim. 

Getting around Antwerp in the evening is quite an undertaking at thistime; no street lamps are lighted, all the window shades lined withblack, and heavy black shades are placed over the small electric lightsin the courtyards of hotels, etc. --all of this to keep from giving anyindication to the Zeppelins as to where to drop their visiting cards. Aheavy detachment of soldiers guards the approach to the Saint Antoine, and there are patrols in all the streets. The few motors allowed on thestreet have no lights, and are stopped by all the patrols, who do notcall out but rise up silently in front of you and demand the password. It is a ticklish business finding one's way. The big searchlights on theforts sweep the skies from nightfall until dawn, making a wonderful sortof fireworks. 

When I got back to the hotel I found Prince Caraman Chimay waiting forme with a message from the Queen. Also poor Prince Ernest de Ligne, whose son, Badouin, was killed in one of the armoured motors severaldays ago. 

Young de Ligne, who was a volunteer, was in one of three armoured carsthat went out on a reconnaissance toward the German lines. Just beforeentering a sunken road between two fields they stopped a Flemish peasantand asked him whether there were any Germans anywhere about. The peasanttold them that three Uhlans had been seen a short time before but theyhad gone away. The three motors, de Ligne in the first, started down andwere attacked by about forty Germans under command of a major. De Lignewas shot in the head and died shortly afterwards. The man who took hisplace at the wheel was killed, and several others of the party were alsobadly wounded and have since died. The third motor came up from somelittle distance behind and opened on the Germans, killing or woundingnearly all of them, including the officer, who was killed. 

A young chap named Strauss, whose mother was an American, had themitrailleuse in his car, and stood upright, firing upon the Germanswithout being touched by the heavy rifle fire that they directed againsthim. When the Germans had been put to flight he and the other survivorsgot the three cars into running order, and brought them all back toAntwerp, where de Ligne and two of the others died. 

Prince Ernest had a hard time getting through from Brussels, and wasfired on several times by the German troops, who were even more nervousthan in the morning, when I came through. One of his nephews has alsobeen killed, and another nephew, Prince Henri de Ligne, is in theaviation corps, and has been in the thick of it ever since the beginningof the war. He and his wife are also staying at the Saint Antoine. 

On Thursday morning I got caught in another avalanche of telegrams andhad to spend a couple of hours at the Consulate-General polishing offand finishing business. Stopped in at the palace on the way back and sawGeneral Jungbluth, who showed me the latest telegrams. I gathered upwhat newspapers I could beg or buy and stuffed them into a militarypouch to take back. Had an early lunch, gathered up M. De Woeste andFaura, whom I was to bring back, and started about one. We got throughMalines, across the only one of the three bridges which is left, andstarted down the bank of the canal toward Hofstade, where Herwarth wasto meet us at two o'clock. There was heavy firing by small guns aheadand a certain amount of protective firing from the forts behind us, withthe shells singing high above our heads, but we thought that it wasprobably aimed further to the south and that we could get through. 

Just at the edge of Malines we were startled by a tremendous reportnear-by, and on getting out to reconnoitre I discovered a Belgianbattery, which had been established near the Convent of the Dames deColoma. The commanding officer of the battery, Major Nyssens, whom I hadknown in Brussels, advised us to wait a little to see if there was alull in the fighting, so that we would get through. We went into theconvent to wait and were warmly received by a little Irish nun, whoshowed us the park and pictures by way of entertainment, although wefelt a much greater interest in the banging of the battery. After a bitMajor Nyssens sent out a messenger to the farthest battery to seewhether they were prepared to stop firing for a little while to let usscuttle through to Hofstade. Presently an answer came back that at 2:10the firing would be stopped for twelve minutes to let us through. Wewere in the motor ready to start when another messenger came from theouter battery saying that the Germans were prepared to move up theirbattery from the bridge at Hofstade--the very spot we were making for, if there were any lull in the firing and that the Belgian battery couldnot stop without endangering its position. 

We then decided to go back to Malines and to try a direct road by way ofSempst and Villevorde. On parting I gave Nyssens all my cigars, knowingI should find plenty when I got back to Brussels, and he, in a burst ofgratitude, gave me a tiny revolver taken off a dead German officer a fewhours before. Immediately after getting the revolver Nyssens' orderlyhad handled it rather carelessly, and shot himself in the stomach. Tomake sure of doing nothing equally foolish, I took out the remainingcartridges and chucked them in the canal as we rode back to Malines. 

About a kilometer out of Malines we ran into a considerable detachmentof Belgian infantry and lancers and a large armoured motor with twomitrailleuses. We were told that the Belgians had taken and retakenSempst three times during the day, and while neither side occupied thetown at that precise moment they were both advancing on it, and that itmight be rather warm for ordinary motors. They finally agreed to let ustalk to the commanding officer, who turned out to be none other thanColonel Cumont, the owner of the building occupied by the Legation. 

He was up on a railway embankment, lying on his stomach between therails, watching some German patrols through a pair of big field glasses, and when we hailed him, rolled gracefully over the side, and came downto talk to us. He had been out on the track most of the time for threedays and was a rather disreputable-looking person, but apparently gladof a chance to talk with someone from the outside world. 

He said he thought we would have time to get through before the rowbegan, and in any event he would warn his men so that if we camescuttling back we would be given the right of way to safety. 

We passed several Belgian patrols along the way and finally got into thetown, which showed clear evidences of fighting; some of the houses wereburned to the ground, and all that were standing had their doors andwindows smashed, furniture broken, and strewn about the floors withbroken bottles and dishes, mattresses and goodness knows what else; andabove all arose that terrible smell of burnt flesh. 

We were nearly through the town when we were hailed by a detachment ofabout twenty Belgians, who had got through and occupied the grounds of avilla on the edge of the village. We stopped the car, and I got out andwent ahead, they remaining with leveled rifles, in their usualhospitable manner. When I got to within twenty feet of them we heard thewhirr of a machine gun--which the Belgian soldiers call a _cinema_--anda German armoured car poked its nose around the corner for a look-see. It was firing high to draw a return fire and locate any Belgians theremight be in the town, but they all scurried behind cover, closelyfollowed by me. They were taking no chances, however, and called me tostay in the middle of the road. Without wasting any time in formality Imade clear my identity, and, on being shown through a breach in the walla disagreeable-looking body of German infantry and lancers about a halfa mile away approaching through a field, I decided that we were on thewrong road and made back for the motor. 

I told my passengers what was up, and that we had to go back to Malines. M. De Woeste, however, was all for going through on the valid plea thathe had no clean linen and did not want to spend another night out ofBrussels. Nevertheless we turned around and started back, only to rushinto the big Belgian armoured car which Colonel Cumont, hearing firing, had sent down to rescue us and cover our retreat. This car stayed in thevillage for a few minutes to meet the German car, fired a few shots atit, and then came back to the outposts. 

We then tried getting out toward the west from Malines, but soon came toa point where the road was inundated, and had to turn back for the thirdtime. It was then getting pretty late in the afternoon, and even M. DeWoeste had to admit that we had best come back to Antwerp rather thantry to make a roundabout journey to Brussels after dark. 

All the way back into Antwerp we met Belgian forces advancing to theattack. They are getting to know the flag better every day and we weregreeted with waving hands and cheers everywhere we went. When nearly intown, a young chap ran out of the ranks to where we were waiting forthem to get by, grabbed me by the shoulder, and said:

"I am born an American. "

"Where were you born?"

"Aurora, Illinois. My father worked in ----'s glycerine works. "

"Who do you know in Aurora?"

"I know Mr. Evans and Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- and Mr. _Beaupré_. "[7]

"What's your name?"

Just then a non-commissioned officer came along and ordered him backinto the ranks; the motor started ahead, and I lost track of the boy ina cloud of dust. 

[Footnote 7: Former American Minister at The Hague. ]

At the edge of town we caught up with a British Legation motor, whichwas stopped at a railroad barricade. Its occupants roared with laughterwhen they saw us, and Colonel Fairholme gloated particularly, as he hadprophesied that we would not get through. When we got back to the hotelwe were met with more laughter. It was the great joke of the week to seethe only people who had previously been successful in running the lines, caught like the rest of them. I was not at all down in the mouth, asAntwerp was most interesting, and I had left only because I had felt itmy duty to get back to work and to keep the Minister from worrying. WhenI saw that there was no way of getting through I gladly accepted thedecree of fate. 

When we got back to Antwerp I soon learned that it would be out of thequestion to get back to Brussels the next day, or perhaps even the dayafter that. The Belgians were advancing to an enveloping movement andall the surrounding country was to be covered with Belgian troops in anendeavour to deal a smashing blow to the Germans and compel them tobring back more troops from the front in France. Colonel Fairholme askedme to accompany him to the front next morning, and I accepted with analacrity which startled him. 

After dinner I made another excursion into the darkness and toldMonsieur de Woeste that there was no prospect of getting back toBrussels the next day. His colleagues, who were there also, impressedupon him the futility of going, and he finally resigned himself tostaying, although he kept insisting that he infinitely preferred dangerto boredom, which was his lot so long, as he had nothing to do but sitaround the hotel. 

Friday morning while I was waiting for the Colonel to get ready and wasdoing my little errands down town, there came a great roaring of acrowd, and the chauffeur, knowing my curiosity, put on steam and spurteddown to the boulevards just in time to run into a batch of three hundredGerman prisoners being brought in. They were a dejected-looking crowd, most of them Landsturm, haggard and sullen. The crowd, mindful of thethings the Germans have been doing to this little country, were in nofriendly mood, but did nothing violent. There was only a small guard ofBelgian Garde Civique to escort the prisoners, but there were nobrickbats or vegetables. The people limited themselves to hoots andcatcalls and hisses--which were pretty thick. And even this was frownedupon by the authorities. Within a couple of hours the Military Governorhad posted a proclamation begging the people of Antwerp to maintain amore dignified attitude and to refrain from any hostile demonstrationagainst other prisoners. This batch was surrounded, and caught atAerschot, where the Germans are said to have committed all sorts ofatrocities for the past three weeks. Among the prisoners was thecommanding officer, who was accused of being responsible for a lot ofthe outrages. He was examined by the military court, which sits for thepurpose, and admitted having done most of the things of which he wasaccused, pleading in his own defence that he had done them only inobedience to superior orders, to which he had protested. The soldierswho made the capture disclaimed a large part of the credit for it on theground that most of the Germans were drunk and that they were too dazedto get to their arms. Stories of this sort keep piling in from everyside. 

We got away at eleven to Lierre, where the King has established hisheadquarters for his movement. The road lay to the southeast and wasthrough country I had not traversed before. The aspect was the same, however--long stretches of destroyed houses and felled trees, barbed-wire entanglements and inundated fields. It is a mournful sight. 

Little Lierre was unharmed, and I hope it may remain so. The GrandePlace was filled with staff motors, and there was a constant coming andgoing of motors and motorcycles bearing messengers to and from the fieldof operations. Headquarters was established in the Hôtel de Ville, whichbears on its tower the date 1369--a fine old building, not large, butbeautiful. 

In the morning a message had come ordering Colonel DuCane back toEngland. He was out in the field, and we had to wait until he came in todeliver it to him. The King was also away, but we put in our timetalking with the officers on duty as to the movement and its progress, and then went out for a stroll around the town. We looked into the oldchurch, and I stopped and bought an officer's forage cap as a souvenirof the place. By the time we had poked around the neighbourhood andinspected the other _Sehenswürdigkeiten_ of the town it was lunch timeand we joined an officers' mess in the back room of a little café on thesquare, and then, to kill time, sat in front of another café and hadcoffee and a cigar. 

We could not get started until Colonel DuCane had returned and receivedhis message, so we sat in front of our little café and growled. It wasmaddening to waste our time there while the guns were thundering allaround us and we knew from the signs of activity at headquarters thatbig things were toward. After a time a little man, the Senator for thedistrict, came out and asked us into his house, directly across thestreet from the Hôtel de Ville. It was raining hard and we were readyfor a change, so we accepted gladly and were entertained with champagneand cigars to the music of falling rain and booming cannon. 

Our Senator was very much down in the mouth about the situation ingeneral and wanted to talk about it. The Colonel told him of thebulletins that had been published in Antwerp as to the progress of thecampaign, and as this went on he cheered up visibly minute byminute--whether as a result of the good news or the champagne, I don'tknow. 

The Colonel was called away after a time to talk to Lord Kitchener overthe telephone. Kitchener keeps himself informed directly as to theprogress of operations and the knowledge that he may drop in over thetelephone at any minute gives his officers a very comforting feelingthat they are not forgotten. 

Finally, after dark, Colonel DuCane and Captain Ferguson came in, and wegot under way. It was too late to go forward with hopes of seeinganything, but it was evident that things would be as hot as ever thenext day and that I could not hope to get my charges back to Brussels. Accordingly the Colonel's invitation was extended and accepted, and weturned back toward Antwerp considerably disappointed. 

While we were waiting around trying to make up our minds--if any--I raninto young Strauss, the half-American, who was in the armoured carbehind young de Ligne. He was really the principal hero of the occasion, having stood bolt upright in his car and riddled the German forces withhis mitrailleuse until the few survivors turned and fled. He had withhim two of the other survivors of his party. All of them had beendecorated with the Order of Leopold for their behaviour. An order likethat looks pretty well on a private's uniform, particularly when givenwith such good reason. 

We had retreated inside the Hôtel de Ville during a particularly heavydownpour of rain, when in came the King, who had spent the whole day inthe field with the troops. He was drenched to the skin, but came brisklyup the steps, talking seriously with his aide-de-camp. He stopped andspoke with us all and took Colonel DuCane into his study and had a fewminutes talk with him by way of farewell. The King shows up finely inthe present situation and all the foreign military attachés areenthusiastic about his ability. He is in supreme command of the army andno detail is too insignificant for his attention. 

[Illustration: At Malines--a good background for a photograph to sendhome to Germany]

[Illustration: His Eminence, Cardinal Mercier, Archbishop of Malines]

We got the password and made back for Antwerp in the dark, leavingColonel DuCane and Captain Ferguson to spend the night at Lierre. Wewere in bad luck and got stopped at every railroad crossing along theway. Troop and supply trains were pouring down toward the front and RedCross trains were bringing back the wounded in large numbers. Both sidesmust have suffered heavily during the day, and there may be several daysmore of this sort of fighting before there is a lull. 

When we got back to the hotel we found Sir Francis waiting for us with aglowing telegram and an equally glowing face. It was the mostenthusiastic message yet received from the British War Office, which hasbeen very restrained in its daily bulletins. For the first time that dayit spoke with a little punch, speaking of the "routed enemy" and theirbeing "vigorously pressed. " We tumbled through a hasty bath and got downto dinner in short order. 

After dinner it was the same old performance of going over to the GrandHôtel and labouring with Monsieur de Woeste, who was still bent ongetting home to his clean linen without further delay. It took theunited arguments of the Cabinet, which was in session, to convince himthat it would be useless and foolish to try to get away. Finally heyielded, with a worse grace than on the previous evening. I had acomfortable visit with several of the Ministers, who were glad to hearnews of their families in Brussels, and asked me to remember all sortsof messages to be given on my return. I only hope that I shall not getthe messages mixed and get too affectionate with the wrong people. TheCabinet was going through the latest telegrams from the various fieldsof action. They even had some from Servia and were decidedly cheered up, a big change from the dogged determination with which they were facingbad news the last time I was in Antwerp. 

Saturday morning the Colonel and I were called at six, and at seven wegot away in a pouring rain over the same road to Lierre that we hadtravelled the day before. There was a big force of workmen hard at it inthe vicinity of the outer forts, burning houses and chopping down treesand building barbed-wire entanglements. It is a scene of desolation, butit is necessary in a fight like this. 

We found things moving rapidly at headquarters in Lierre. Messengerswere pouring in and orders going out with twice the activity of the daybefore. The movement had been under way for two hours when we got thereand the guns were booming all around. After learning as much as we couldof the disposition of the troops we went out and stocked up with bread, cheese, and mineral water, and started forth to see what we could of theoperations. We took along a young officer from headquarters to show usthe road. We soon saw that he did not know the roads and could not evenread a map, and had to take over that work ourselves. Colonel Fairholmeand I went in my motor with the headquarters passenger and ColonelDuCane and Ferguson followed in their own car with an orderly. We got toMalines without difficulty and got out for a look at the Cathedral. Itis a dreadful sight, all the wonderful old fifteenth century glass inpowder on the floor. Part of the roof is caved in and there are greatgaping holes in the lawn, showing where the shells struck that fellshort of their mark. A few of the surrounding houses, belonging toentirely peaceful citizens, were completely wiped out while they weregetting the range. It is hard to see what useful military purpose isserved by smashing churches and peaceful habitations, when there are notroops about the place. Malines was bombarded when the troops hadwithdrawn. It is hard to reconcile with _Gott mit uns_. 

Before we left Lierre, nine troopers of the Landsturm were marched intothe hallway of the Hôtel de Ville, to be examined by the officer who isthere for that purpose. They were a depressed lot who had run away andgiven themselves up, so as to be spared the hardships and dangers of therest of the war. They answered questions freely, telling all they knewas to the disposition of troops and making their get-away toward thelocal lockup with great alacrity as soon as the word was given to move. Most of them were Bavarians. Colonel Fairholme speaks German like anative. He talked with these chaps, and there was some interestingconversation. They were all without enthusiasm for the war, and allexpressed indignation at having been brought out of the country, maintaining that the Landsturm cannot be used for anything except themaintenance of order in the Empire. I think they are wrong about that, but this was no joint debate on German law, and no attempt was made tosooth their injured feelings. A lot of men were brought in while we werethere, some of them prisoners taken during the fighting, but a greatmany of them fugitives who were sick of the war, and only asked to getoff with a whole skin. 

As they marched out of the hall, the King came in from the field for alook at the morning's telegrams. He had been out since long beforedaybreak, and was covered with rain and mud. He shook himselfvigorously, spraying everybody with raindrops, and then stopped to speakto us before going in for a cup of coffee and a look at the news. 

From Malines we made back along the northern side of the canal, in anendeavour to find the headquarters of the ----th Division. We wentthrough a little village where all the inhabitants were standing in theroad, listening to the cannonading, and spun out upon an empty andsuspiciously silent country road. A little way out we found a couple ofdead horses which the thrifty peasants had already got out and skinned. I didn't like the looks of it, and in a minute the Colonel agreed thathe thought it did not look like a road behind the lines, but our littlestaff officer was cock-sure that he knew just what he was talking about, and ordered the chauffeur to go ahead. Then we heard three sharp tootson the horn of the car behind--the signal to stop and wait. And it camepulling up alongside with an inquiry as to what we meant by "barging"along this sort of a road which likely as not would land us straightinside the enemy's lines. There was a spirited discussion as to whetherwe should go ahead or go back and strike over through Rymenam, when weheard a shell burst over the road about half a mile ahead, and then sawa motor filled with Belgian soldiers coming back toward us full tilt. The Colonel stopped them and learned that they had been out on areconnaissance with a motor-cyclist to locate the German lines, whichwere found to be just beyond where the shell had burst, killing themotor-cyclist. It would have been a little too ignominious for us tohave gone bowling straight into the lines and get taken prisoners. Weturned around and left that road to return no more that way. We gotabout half-way up to Rymenam when we met some Belgian officers in amotor, who told us that a battery of the big French howitzers, which hadjust gone into action for the first time, were in a wood near H----. Weturned around once more, and made for H---- by way of Malines. We foundthe headquarters of the ----th Division, and went in and watched thenews come in over the field telephone and telegraph, and by messengerson motor-cycles, bicycles and horses straight from the field. Theheadquarters was established in a little roadside inn about half a mileoutside the town, and was as orderly as a bank. Officers sat at thevarious instruments and took notes of the different reports as they camein. Reports were discussed quickly but quietly, and orders sent outpromptly but without confusion. The maps were kept up to the minute bychanging the little flags to show the positions of the different troopsright at the minute. There was telephone communication with the forts, and several times they were ordered to pour fire into a certain spot tocover an advance or a retreat of parts of the Belgian forces, and, atother times, to cease firing, so as to let Belgian troops cross oroccupy the exact spot they had been bombarding. It was a wonderful sightto watch, and it was hard to realise that this was merely a highlyscientific business of killing human beings on a large scale. It was sobusiness-like and without animus, that to anyone not knowing thelanguage or conditions, it might have passed as a busy day in a waroffice commissary when ordering supplies and giving orders for shipment. 

Just outside the headquarters was one of the fine German kitchen wagonswith two fine Norman horses which had pulled it all the way fromGermany. It had been stationed in the grounds of a château not far away, and three men of its crew were hard at work getting a meal when a littleBelgian soldier with two weeks' growth of beard waltzed into the garden, shot one of the men dead and captured the other two. He disarmed them, put ropes around their necks and drove the kitchen to headquarters intriumph. He was proud as punch of his exploit, and, for that matter, sowas everybody else around the place. 

In a field of turnips a couple of hundred yards away from theheadquarters were the howitzers. There were three of them in a row withthree ammunition wagons. They had been sent here only a few days ago, and they were promptly put into action. They were planted here, slightlyinside the range of the guns from the outer forts, and were able to dropshells six miles from where we stood, or about five miles outside therange of the fort guns. They toss a shell about two feet long, filledwith deadly white powder, six miles in ten seconds, and when the shellstrikes anything, "it thoes rocks at yeh!" as the darkey said about ournavy guns. The battery was planted down behind a little clump of pines, and was dropping shells into a little village where there was aconsiderable force of Germans about to be attacked. The Germans musthave been puzzled by this development, for they had counted on beingable to advance safely up to the range of the forts, feeling sure thatthe Belgians had no powerful field guns of this sort. 

We were introduced to the officers commanding the battery, and watchedtheir work for nearly two hours. One of the officers was Count Guyd'Oultremont, adjutant of the Court, whom I had known in Brussels. Hewas brown as a berry, had lost a lot of superfluous flesh, and wasreally a fine-looking man. He had been in Namur, and had got away withthe Belgian troops who went out the back door into France and came homeby ship. 

After we had been watching a little while, an aeroplane came circlingaround, evidently to spot the place where these deadly cannon were. Itcruised around for some time in vain, but finally crossed straightoverhead. As soon as we were located, the machine darted away to spreadthe news, so that the big German guns could be trained on us and silencethe battery; but the Belgians were Johnny-at-the-rat-hole again, and hewas winged by rifle fire from a crowd of soldiers who were resting nearthe headquarters. They killed the observer and wounded the pilothimself, to say nothing of poking a hole in the oil tank. The machinevolplaned to earth a few hundred yards from where we were, and the pilotwas made prisoner. The machine was hauled back to the village andshipped on the first outgoing train to Antwerp as a trophy. 

We were leaving the battery and were slipping and sliding through thecabbages on our way back to the road, when we met the King on foot, accompanied only by an aide-de-camp, coming in for a look at the bigguns. He stopped and spoke to us and finally settled down for a realtalk, evidently thinking that this was as good a time as any other hewas likely to find in the immediate future. 

After talking shop with the two colonels, he turned to me for the latestgossip. He asked me about the story that the German officers had drunkhis wine at the Palace in Laeken. I told him that it was generallyaccepted in Brussels, and gave him my authority for the yarn. Hechuckled a little and then said, in his quiet way, with a merry twinkle:"You know I never drink anything but water. " He cogitated a minute andthen, with an increased twinkle, he added: "And it was not very goodwine!" He seemed to think that he had quite a joke on the Germans. 

As we talked, the sound of firing came from the German lines not faraway, and shrapnel began falling in a field on the other side of theroad. The Germans were evidently trying to locate the battery in thatway. Most of the shrapnel burst in the air and did no damage, but someof it fell to the ground before bursting and sent up great fountains ofthe soft black earth with a cloud of gray smoke with murky yellowsplotches in it. It was not a reassuring sight, and I was perfectlywilling to go away from there, but being a true diplomat, I rememberedthat the King ranked me by several degrees in the hierarchy, and that hemust give the sign of departure. Kings seem powerless to move at suchtimes, however, so we stayed and talked while the nasty things popped. His Majesty and I climbed to a dignified position on a pile of rubbish, whence we could get a good view up and down the road, and see the Frenchguns which were in action again. 

A little later Ferguson, who was standing not far away, got hit with alittle sliver and had a hole punched in the shoulder of his overcoat. Itstopped there, however, and did not hurt him in the least. He lookedrather astonished, pulled the little stranger from the hole it had made, looked at it quizzically, and then put it in his pocket and went onwatching the French guns. I think he would have been quite justified instopping the battle and showing his trophy to everybody on both sides. 

The King was much interested in all the news from Brussels, how thepeople were behaving, what the Germans were doing, whether there werecrowds on the streets, and how the town felt about the performances ofthe army. 

He realised what has happened to his little country, and made me realiseit for the first time. He said that France was having a hard time, butadded that perhaps a sixth of her territory was invaded and occupied, but that every bit of his country had been ravaged and devastated withthe exception of the little bit by the sea coast and Antwerp itself, which was getting pretty rough treatment, in order to put it in shape todefend itself. He spoke with a great deal of feeling. And no wonder!

Then to change the tone of the conversation, he looked down at mypretty patent leather shoes, and asked in a bantering way whether thosewere a part of my fighting kit, and where I had got them. I answered: "Igot them several months ago to make my first bow to Your Majesty, atLaeken!" He looked around for a bit at the soggy fields, the marchingtroops, and then down at the steaming manure heap, and remarked with alittle quirk to his lips: "We did not think then that we should hold ourfirst good conversation in a place like this, did we?" He smiled in asad way, but there was a lot more sadness than mirth in what he said. 

Guy d'Oultremont came up and said something that I did not understand, and we started back toward the headquarters. We stopped opposite theinn, and the two colonels were called up for a little more talk. 

Just then a crowd of priests, with Red Cross brassards on their arms, came down the road on their way to the battlefield to gather up thewounded. With his usual shyness the King withdrew a few steps to seekshelter behind a motor that was standing near by. As we talked, we edgedback a little, forcing him to come forward, so that he was in plainsight of the priests, who promptly broke out in a hearty "_Vive leroi!_" He blushed and waved his hand at them, and, after they had passedby, shook hands with us and followed them on foot out onto the field. Inmodern warfare a King's place is supposed to be in a perfectly safespot, well back of the firing line, but he does not play the game thatway. Every day since the war began, he has gone straight out into thethick of it, with the shells bursting all around and even within rangeof hostile rifle fire. It is a dangerous thing for him to do, but itdoes the troops good, and puts heart into them for the desperatefighting they are called upon to do. They are all splendidly devoted tohim. 

The rain stopped as we got into the motors and started back towardMalines, with the idea of locating the other battery of _obusiers_. There was a sharp volley of three toots on Colonel DuCane's horn, and wecame to a sudden stop, with the emergency brakes on, to receive theinformation that it was two o'clock and time for lunch. None of us hadkept any track of time, and all were ready to go sailing alongindefinitely without food. As soon as we had noticed the time, however, we all became instantly hungry, and moved along, looking for a goodplace for lunch. I had the happy idea of suggesting the convent where wehad taken refuge on Thursday, and thither we repaired to be most warmlygreeted by all the nuns, and most particularly by the little Irishsister who was overjoyed to see British uniforms and hear some war newsthat she could believe. She hailed me with, "Oh! and it's theriprisintitive of the Prisidint!" The nuns gave us a table in the parkand two big benches, and we got out our bread and cheese and chocolateand a few other things that Colonel DuCane had found somewhere, and hada most comfortable meal with a towering pitcher of beer brought out fromthe convent, to give us valour for the afternoon's work. 

After lunch we went back through Malines again, through the railroadyards, bumping over the tracks, and away toward Muysen and Rymenam tosee the other batteries. I was struck in going through the railwayyards, which I had always seen teeming with activity and movement, tosee that all the rails are covered deep with rust--probably for thefirst time. Think of it!

After leaving Muysen, our road lay for a mile or so along a canal withopen fields on either side. Uhlan patrols had been reported in this partof the country, which was in a weak spot in the Belgian lines, and theColonel told the staff officer to keep a sharp lookout and be ready withhis revolver and prepared for a burst of speed. That military geniusreplied with an air of assurance: "Oh, that's all right. They cannotcross the canal. " The Colonel confined himself to saying mildly: "No, but bullets can!" Little Napoleon said nothing more, but I noticed thathe unstrapped his revolver without loss of time. 

We were bowling along the road, looking for the battery, when there wasthe most enormous noise which tore the earth asunder and the universetrembled. I looked around to the left, and there not more than a hundredfeet away were those three husky French guns which had just gone offright over our heads! We had found them all right, but I should preferto find them in some other way next time. 

We spent a little time looking at them, and Ferguson had them get outsome of the explosive and show it to me. It comes in long strips thatlook for all the world like chewing gum--the strips about the sameproportions, only longer. I fail to see, however, how they can be madeto blow up. 

After a bit we got back into the cars, and started out to cruise aroundto the Belgian left wing and watch, a little of the infantry fighting atclose quarters. We very soon began running into stragglers who informedus that the ----th Division was being driven back, and that a retreatwas in progress. Soon we came upon supply trains and ammunition wagonsmaking for the rear, to be out of the way of the troops when they beganto move. We were not anxious to be tangled up in the midst of a retreat, and obliged to spend the night trying to work our way out of it, so weforged ahead and got back to Lierre as fast as we could. It was raininghard as we came in, and we took refuge in the Hôtel de Ville, where thecolonels read their telegrams and got off a report to London. One oftheir telegrams brought the unwelcome news that Ferguson was alsorecalled to England. They are evidently hard put to it to find enoughofficers to handle the volunteer forces. He will have to stay on for afew days, but Colonel DuCane came back with us and left the next morningfor England by way of Ostend. 

When we got back to the hotel after a fast run, I found that Inglebleek, the King's Secretary, had been around twice for me, and wanted me to goat once to the Palace. I jumped into the car and ran over there, tolearn that the Queen wanted to see me. She was then at dinner, and hethought it would do the next time I came up--she seems to have wantedmore news of Brussels--nothing pressing. She had told Inglebleek to giveme a set of the pictures she had had taken of the damage done to theCathedral at Malines. They are interesting as a matter of record. 

Sir Francis had another good bulletin from the War Office, and wasbeaming. The colleagues came and gathered round the table, and chortledwith satisfaction. 

Heavy cannonading continued well into the night, to cover the advance ofthe ----th Division, which had been reinforced and was moving back intothe dark and rain to take up its old position and be ready for theGermans in the morning. 

I was up and about early on Sunday morning. Had breakfast with CountGoblet d'Alviella, one of the Ministers of State. Gathered up Monsieurde Woeste and Faura, and made for the Scheldt and Brussels. Instead ofgoing across on the boat as we had to do the last time, we found a broadand comfortable pontoon bridge placed on canal boats and schoonerslashed together and moored from one side of the river to the other. Anytime they like, the Belgians can cut the string, and there is no way ofgetting into the city from that side. There was a tremendous windblowing and the rain fell in torrents--short showers--from the time weleft Antwerp until we came sailing into town here. 

The bridge at Termonde had been blown up by the Germans on evacuatingthe place after having destroyed the entire town, so there was nothought of returning that way. I knew there could be nothing doing thedirect way through Malines, so decided on a long swing around the circleby way of Ghent as the only practicable way. We found Belgian troops allthe way to Ghent, and had no trouble beyond giving the password which Ihad. We drew up at a restaurant in a downpour and had a hasty lunch, getting under way again immediately afterward. 

About ten kilometers this side of Ghent we came to Melle, a villagewhich had been destroyed, and another where a number of houses had beenburned. A nice-looking young chap told us that there had been a fightthere the day before and that the Germans had set fire to the place asthey retreated--just from cussedness, so far as he could see. There, andat another place along the road, peasants told us that they had beenmade to march in front of the German troops when they marched againstthe Belgians. I don't like to believe that there is any truth in thatstory but it comes from every direction and the people tell it in a mostconvincing way. 

We found no Germans until we were this side of Assche and then ouradventures were evidently at an end. As we came in we could hear heavycannonading from the direction of Vilvorde and Hofstade and knew thatthe fight was still going on. They had been hearing it in town for acouple of days. 

The family at the Legation had been somewhat anxious, but had learnedthrough the Germans that we were all right--evidently from somebody whogot through the lines. I had to sit right down and tell the story of mylife from one end to the other. 

I never got over the idea in Antwerp of the incongruity of going outonto the field all day and fighting a big battle, or rather, watching itfought, and then sailing comfortably home to a big modern hotel in amotor and dressing for dinner. I don't think there has ever been a warquite like this before. 

Herwarth has gone to the front for some active service. I am sorry tomiss him. He went up to Hofstade the day I was to have returned, andwaited for me about an hour, but the fire got too thick for him and hecame back and reported that I would not be able to get through. 

Monsieur de Woeste called this afternoon and paid his respects. He gavethe Minister an account of the attempts we made to get through that madehis hair stand on end for an hour afterward. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 16, 1914. _--To-day has brought a long string ofcallers, and between times we took satisfying looks at the passingtroops, which have been pouring into town steadily yesterday and to-day. Nobody has established to my satisfaction whence they come or whitherthey are going. There are all sorts of explanations offered, eachexplanation being quite convincing to the one who offers it. Most peoplesay that they are being brought in for the siege of Antwerp, which isabout to begin. The siege of Antwerp has begun so often and nevermaterialized that I decline to get excited about it at this stage of thegame. Another explanation is that the German retreat in France is soprecipitate that some of the troops and supply trains are alreadypouring through here on their way home. I cannot get up much enthusiasmfor that either. Some imaginative souls maintain that these are forcesbeing brought back to fight against the Russians. None of these storiessound good to me and I have resigned myself to the belief that the onlyreally safe conjecture is that this "is a movement of troops. "

This morning Baron von der Lancken came in and asked me to testify as towhat we had seen at Louvain. Of course what we saw had no bearing on theoriginal cause of the trouble and there is no reason for me to push myway into the controversy. Besides, I can't do it without orders fromWashington. 

We are getting quite accustomed to having no communications with theoutside world. Railroads, of course, have ceased to work, except formilitary purposes, and there is no way for the general public to getabout. There has been no postal service since the Germans marched in onAugust 20th, and we don't know when we shall have any. All telephoneswere cut off within a few hours of the arrival of the German army. Thereare no newspapers, and all the information we are supposed to have abouthappenings in the outside world is fed to us in the form of placards onthe walls of the city. Nobody takes any great amount of stock in whatthese placards tell us, although they have sometimes told us the truth, and consequently there is a great demand for the few copies of Dutch andEnglish newspapers that are smuggled across the border and brought toBrussels. The prices vary according to the number of papers to be had, and run from five francs to one hundred francs for a single copy of the_Times_. Those who do not care to spend so much can rent a paper by thehour--and customers are not wanting on this basis. By way ofdiscouraging this traffic it is said that the Germans have shot severalmen caught smuggling papers. Those caught selling them in Brussels arearrested and given stiff terms of imprisonment. All taxis disappearedmany days ago and altogether the normal life of the town has ceased. Itwill be a rollicking place from now on. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 17, 1914. _--This morning I spent digging my way outfrom under a landslide of detail work which has been piling up on mydesk, until I could hardly see over it. I now have it out of the way, and can breathe again freely for the moment. 

This afternoon Baron de Menten de Horne, a Lieutenant in the SecondRegiment of Lancers, was brought in to the Legation, a prisoner, stillwearing his Belgian uniform. He was captured last Friday near H---- whileI was there. Nyssens, the Major who was in the convent with us, told methat one of his officers had gone off on a reconnaissance and had notreappeared; he was greatly worried about him, but could not send any oneout to look for him. This was the man. He was surrounded, in companywith several of his men, and took to cover in a field of beets. Nightwas coming on, and they thought that when the fight was over and theGerman troops who were all about them had retired, they would be able towork their way out and rejoin their own forces, but twenty-five Germanssurrounded them, and after killing all the others, took this manprisoner. 

His only idea is to be exchanged and rejoin his regiment; and, as is thecase with pretty much everybody else nowadays, he turned to the AmericanLegation. He made such a good plea that the German authorities broughthim here yesterday, and left him an hour, on his giving his word ofhonour not to divulge anything as to the military movements he had seenwhile a prisoner. 

Of course, we could not arrange to make the exchange, but he stayed onfor an hour and told us of his adventures. He was a pathetic figure inhis dirty uniform, sitting on a little chair in my office and telling ina simple way of all he had been through--laying more stress on thesufferings and death of his soldiers than on anything that had happenedto him. His own brother had been killed in the fighting around Liège, and he had heard that his brother-in-law, of whom he was very fond, hadalso been mortally wounded. While at Louvain, he had visited themilitary hospitals, and had a list of Belgian officers who were there. Itook a list of them, by permission of the German officer who came afterthe prisoner, and shall send word to their families. 

I went around to see the young man's sister, and sent her off to have alook at him at headquarters, where he is being well treated. It is a joyto be able to do some of these little errands. Nobody can realize theamount of bitter sorrow there is in this country--we cannot realize itourselves, but now and then a wave of it rises up to confront andoverwhelm us. 

Miss T----, an American owning a school here, was in late this afternoonto complain of the behaviour of a couple of officers and gentlemen whodid her the honour of calling upon her. They came swaggering in, askedwhether a certain German girl had attended the school and demanded herportrait. On being refused, they became nasty and finally so overawedthe two women who were there alone that they found some snap shots andhanded over a couple of them. Then they demanded a post card with apicture of the school, wrote a message to the girl, and tried to compelthe two women to sign it. They flatly refused, and, in a rage, the elderGerman tore up the card, threw it at Miss T----, flung down thephotographs and stamped out of the house, slamming the doors. 

The Minister is going over to see the military authorities in themorning and make some remarks that they will not forget in a hurry. Thepuppies ought to be horsewhipped. 

 * * * * *

_September 18th. _--Repressive measures are getting stronger and moresevere. The Germans have now ordered the Belgians to take down theirflags. Lüttwitz, the Military Governor, has posted an _Avis_ on thesubject which is worth reproducing in full. 

 The population of Brussels, understanding well its own interests, has generally, since the arrival of the German troops, maintained order and quiet. For this reason, I have not yet forbidden the display of Belgian flags, which is regarded as a provocation by the German troops living in or passing through Brussels. Purely in order to avoid having our troops led to acting on their own initiative, I now call upon houseowners to take down their Belgian flags. 

 The Military Government, in putting this measure into effect, has not the slightest intention of wounding the susceptibilities and dignity of the citizens. It is intended solely to protect the citizens against harm. 

 Brussels, September 16, 1914. 

 BARON VON LÜTTWITZ. _General and Governor_. 

Dined at the Palace in a din of German officers. Bulle, Pousette andRiseis kept me in countenance. There were also some twenty or thirtyAustrian officers--the first we have seen. They were quiet and wellbehaved, and contrasted sharply with their allies. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 19, 1914. _--This morning our Vice-Consul came infrom Ghent bringing with him a pouch and a huge bag of letters andtelegrams. These had been got through to him from Antwerp yesterday, andhe made a run through the lines early this morning, having been turnedback several times on account of small engagements between Belgian andGerman outposts. 

This morning a Dutchman came in to see me, and after showing me a lot ofpapers, to establish that he was somebody entirely different, told methat he was a British spy. He then launched into a long yarn about histravels through the country and the things he had seen, unloading on mea lot of military information or misinformation that he seemed anxiousto have me understand. After he had run down I asked why he had honouredme with his confidence, and was somewhat startled to have him answerthat he had no way of getting it out and thought that inasmuch as wewere charged with the protection of British interests I might have anopportunity to pass it on where it would do the most good. He seemedrather pained at my remarks, and was most reproachful when I threw himout on his head. Yes, my shrewd friend, it has also occurred to me thathe may have been a German spy just trying to find out whether we wereindulging in dirty work. It would not be the first time that that sortof thing was tried on us. 

Monseigneur N---- came around this afternoon and asked me to take him toAntwerp on my next trip. I told him that I could not, as I had alreadypromised to take some other people, and that my car would be full. Hesaid that he had his own car, and that he would ask me to convoy him; hehad heard that I had "_beaucoup de bravourr, tandis que moi je n'ai pasde bravourrrr et j'aimarais me mettre sous votre protection. _" I senthim to see von der Lancken, and he came back in a little while to saythat he was told that the only safe way was to go by Namur, Liège andHolland, entering Antwerp from the north. He evidently insisted on aperfectly safe route, that could be guaranteed, and they told him astory that they thought would dissuade him from making the trip. They donot like to have a lot of people coming and going. 

We have no more news from the outside world; the battle still rages allalong the line in France (according to what we hear), but we have noinkling as to whether the German retreat still continues. The only thingwe are told at headquarters is that the outcome is as yet undecided, butthat the Germans are in a favourable position, and that they will bevictorious in a few days. I would give a good deal for a little realnews as to how things are going. 

This morning Major Langhorne, our Military Attaché from Berlin, breezedin upon us. He is travelling around with six other Military Attachés, seeing as much of the field of operations as the German officer whopersonally conducts them will permit. They got in this morning, and leftabout one, so we had only a few minutes' visit, and he carried off allour good wishes and New York papers. 

The German _affiche_ of yesterday, ordering the Belgian flags takendown, has made everybody furious, and for a time we thought there mightbe trouble. If the flags had been ordered down the day the Germans camein there would not have been half as much resentment, but, on thecontrary, they began by proclaiming that the patriotic feelings of thepeople would be scrupulously respected. Max, the Burgomaster, got out alittle proclamation of his own which served to soothe the feelings ofthe people. After expressing some views as to the German order, he says:

 I ask the population of the town to give a fresh example of self-restraint and greatness of soul which it has already so often shown during these sad days. 

 Let us provisionally accept the sacrifice which is imposed upon us; let us take down our flags in order to avoid conflicts, and patiently await the hour of redress. 

Soon flags were coming down all over the city, and there was not amurmur. An hour after Max's proclamation was posted, however, Germansoldiers were running about covering them with sheets of white paper. The Military authorities were furious, because Max had intimated in hisposter that the present situation would not endure forever, and that theBelgian flag would fly again over Brussels. In their unimaginative waythey sent down a squad of soldiers and arrested him. He was taken toheadquarters, and brought before von Lüttwitz, who told him that he wasto be taken as a prisoner of war to Berlin. Max replied that he bowedbefore superior force; that he had done what he knew to be necessary forthe preservation of order in his city, and that he was ready to acceptthe consequences of his act; that at any rate he would have thesatisfaction of having maintained order here up to the minute that hewas sent to Germany, and that he could not be held responsible for whatmight happen after his departure. General von Lüttwitz sat up and tooknotice of the last part of this and rushed off to see von der Goltz. Inten minutes he came back and told Max that he was free and that theField Marshal desired that he should continue to act as Burgomaster asthough nothing had happened. Why don't people have a littleimagination!!

The town is still bottled up, and troops are being marched back andforth across it, as, I believe, purely for the purpose of impressing thepopulation with the belief that they are far more numerous than theyreally are. Late this afternoon I took a drive to the edge of town, andwe were stopped half a dozen times and had our papers examined. From allI can gather it would seem that the Germans are entrenching themselvesas solidly as they can so as to be ready to resist another sortiewithout sustaining the terrible losses they suffered last time. Theycannot be very happy over the way things have been going in France, although they have this afternoon announced a great victory on theirright wing. 

One of our friends who has just come back from the coast reports thatthere were a lot of French troops marching through Belgium on their wayfrom Dunkerque to Lille--evidently an attempt to turn the German rightwing. We have heard nothing more about it. 

 * * * * *

The food supply of the country is being rapidly exhausted and there isurgent need for importations. The public knows little about thesituation, but a serious shortage threatens and we must have aconsiderable stock from abroad. The Brussels committee has raised agoodly sum of money and hopes to get food from Holland and England tomeet present needs. Similar committees are being formed in other cities, and they, too, will require food from abroad. The local committee hasasked Shaler to go to Holland and from there to England to purchase asmuch food as possible, make arrangements for sending it across thefrontier and investigate the chances of getting future supplies. TheGerman authorities have given assurances that they will not requisitionany of the supplies imported for the use of the civil population. Theyare to issue placards signed by the Military Governor ordering themilitary authorities to respect our purchases. These placards are to beaffixed to the cars and barges bringing in the supplies and we areinclined to believe that they will be effective. 

After hurried preparation Shaler got away this afternoon with youngCouchman by way of Liège. I went out to lunch with him and see him off. It is not an easy task he has ahead, but he went to it with a goodheart. 

Yesterday evening the Minister had an interview with Baron von derLancken about the question of my making a statement as to what I saw atLouvain. I naturally am very reluctant to be brought into the affair, but the Germans have been very insistent, and finally von der Lanckensaid that he was confident that if he could talk with me for a fewminutes he could arrange the matter to the satisfaction of everybody. Heasked that I go to see him at the Ministry at half past six. I hurriedhome and dressed for dinner, so as to be able to go straight to Mrs. Z. 's, and then run over to the Ministry on the minute. The office of vonder Lancken was dark and empty. I waited in the chilly corridors fortwenty minutes and then went my way. 

This morning one of his minions was here on another matter and I tookoccasion to mention the fact that he had not been there when I called. He came right back with the statement that they had come back from thefield particularly early, on my account, and had waited for me in vainfor nearly an hour. I assured them that I had been there on the minuteand had been in the office, and that there was no one there. Mystery! Byway of clinching it I said that the office was dark as the tomb. Then aray of light struck the German, and he said: "Oh, I see, you came athalf past six, Belgian time! Of course von der Lancken expected you athalf past six, German time!!!" When he asked me when I would call I feltinclined to set eleven in the morning and then wander over at three inthe afternoon, with the statement that, of course, I did everythingaccording to New York time. 

I had an hour's talk with von der Lancken about noon, and finally gotoff without testifying, which is a great comfort to me. He knew fromtheir own troops that I had been in Louvain during the fighting, andhad already reported that to Berlin. I finally prevailed upon him to letit go at that. 

After we had settled our business, von der Lancken talked to me for halfan hour or so about the war in general. He said they had just received atelegram that Reims is in flames, cathedral and all. It is a terriblething to think of, and I suppose may turn out to be another Louvainbefore we get through. Von der Lancken explained it on the ground thatFrench troops had come up and occupied the town, and that it wasnecessary to take it by storm--that troops could never operate against aposition of that sort until artillery had cleared the way. I don't knowjust how far that sort of an explanation explains. 

The Germans got out an _affiche_ of news this morning, stating that"_les troupes Allemands ont fait des progrès sur certains points_. " Itdoes not sound very enthusiastic. 

People coming in from Mons and Charleroi yesterday and to-day say thatthe German rear guard has fallen back on villages near those places andordered the inhabitants to leave; the idea evidently being that they arepreparing to resist any further advance of the allies. 

After lunch, Baron de Menten de Horne was brought into the Legationagain. The Germans seem anxious to get rid of him, and have finallyturned him loose. I cannot very well make out their object in settinghim free without getting a German officer in exchange, but they werekeen to get him off their hands and wanted us to take cognisance of thefact that they had accorded him his liberty. This we have done. I shallbe curious to see whether there is any sequel to this case. 

Late this afternoon we got a telegram from the Consul at Liège, statingthat Shaler and Couchman had been arrested in that city because theywere carrying private letters to be posted when they got to England. They had taken a certain number of letters, all of them open andcontaining nothing but information as to the welfare of individualshere. They were on a mission of interest to the Germanauthorities--getting foodstuffs to prevent a famine here. The Ministergot off an urgent telegram to the Consul to get to work and have themreleased, and also saw von der Lancken about it, with the result thatthe wires are hot. I hope to hear to-night that they are free. These areparlous times to be travelling with correspondence. 

I may have to get away any minute for Antwerp, to see if we cannotarrange to get flour down here for the city. There is enough for only afew days now, and there will be trouble when the bread gives out. 

We have now been charged with Japanese interests; that makes sixLegations we have to look after. 

 * * * * *

_Wednesday. _--Late yesterday afternoon I got a note from PrincessP---- de B----, asking me to go to see her. I got away from my toil andtroubles at seven, and went up to find out what was the matter. The oldlady was in a terrible state. A member of her immediate family marriedthe Duke of ----, a German who has always lived here a great deal. Atthe beginning of the war, things got so hot for any one with any Germantaint that they cleared out. For the last few days, German officers havebeen coming to the house in uniform asking to see the Princess. Theservants have stood them off with the statement that she was out, butshe cannot keep that up indefinitely. They are undoubtedly anxious tosee her, in order to give her some messages from the ----'s, some of herother relatives in Germany; but if it gets around town that she isreceiving officers in uniform the town will be up in arms, and thelady's life would be made miserable whenever the Germans do get out. Shewanted me to start right away for Antwerp and take her along, so thatshe could send her intendant around afterward to say that she was awayon a journey, and could not see the officers who had been sent to seeher. I laboured with her, and convinced her that the best thing was tobe absolutely frank. She is going to send her intendant around to seevon der Lancken, and explain to him frankly the embarrassment to whichshe would be subjected by having to receive officers at her home. I amsure that Lancken will realise the difficult situation the old lady isin, and will find some way of calling his people off. 

Went down to the Palace and had dinner with Pousette and Bulle andCavalcanti, who were full of such news as there is floating around thetown. There is a growing impression that the Germans do intend to investAntwerp, and the Belgians are apparently getting ready for thatcontingency--by inundating a lot more of the country outside the ring offorts. 

At noon, day before yesterday, I found a man with a copy of the _LondonTimes_, and carried it in my overcoat pocket to the Palace Hotel when Iwent there to lunch. Last night, a lot of German civil officials weresitting at a table near by and holding forth in loud tones on thepunishment that should be meted out to people who had forbiddennewspapers in their possession. The most vehement one of the lotexpressed great indignation that the _Amerikanischer Legationsrath_ hadbeen seen in that very restaurant the day before with an Englishnewspaper in his overcoat pocket. Pretty good spy you have, Fritz. 

A telegram has just been received from Liège, saying that Shaler andCouchman have been released and are on their way to Holland. A Dutchmessenger was in after lunch, and told me that he had seen the two menat headquarters yesterday afternoon, and that they were far from happy. He said he did not blame them, as the Germans are dealing out summaryjustice to anybody who falls into their hands that they do not take afancy to. 

A. B. Has been after me for a couple of days to take her up to thechâteau near Louvain, where Countess R. Is left alone with twenty-eightGerman officers quartered on her. A man cousin was sent up to defendher, but was so badly frightened that he spent all his time in thecellar and finally ran away and came back to Brussels. Now she wants togo up to the rescue, and stay there. I have asked von der Lancken for apass, and shall try to take her up to-morrow. She certainly has goodnerve, but I am not sure how much protection she would be able toafford. 

The supply of flour is getting pretty well used up, and I may have toclear out to-morrow afternoon or the next day to go to Antwerp andnegotiate to have some supplies sent down for the relief of the civilpopulation. The Government has volunteered to do this, if the Germanswould promise that the food would not be requisitioned for the troops. We have been given these assurances, and it only remains for me to go upand complete the arrangements. 

When the Minister came back from Louvain he went over to headquartersand talked about the subject of my trip to Antwerp. He has been nervousabout each of my trips and has worried a lot more about it than I have, but when he saw von der Lancken, that worthy made things worse by sayingthat there was artillery ready to begin business in every part of thecountry I was to traverse and that it would be a very dangerous trip. Now, the Minister is making superhuman efforts to find some other way toget the letters and papers through to Antwerp. 

A note has just come in from Princess P. De Z----, to say that shefollowed my advice, and that everything has been settled with the Germanauthorities to her complete satisfaction. She is now easy in her mind. 

 * * * * *

_September 25th. _--I spent all day yesterday sitting on the edge of mychair waiting for a decision about my leaving for Antwerp, and by dark Iwas a fit candidate for an asylum. At five o'clock the Minister wentaround to see von der Lancken to get the _laisser-passer_. It was thensuggested that a letter could be sent around by way of Berlin and TheHague. It would take a week or ten days to get an answer that way. Thenwe argued the matter out again from the beginning, and after a quarterof an hour of joint debate I went over to see von der Lancken and pressfor the _laisser-passer_. He was in a _conseil de guerre_, but I had himpulled out and put it up to him. He said it was then too late to getanything last night, but that he would attend to it to-day. I am nowsitting on the same old edge of my chair waiting for action, so that Ican get away. I think that the trip by Namur, Liège and Maestricht, which is the route prescribed, is a lot safer than the other two trips Ihave made to Antwerp, which really were risky performances. Most of thistrip will be in peaceful Holland and I do not contemplate any sort oftrouble along the way. 

By way of being ready I got passes from the Dutch Legation and theBurgomaster yesterday afternoon, and now all I have to do is take theGerman _Passierschein_ in my hand and start. 

Yesterday evening I dined at the M. 's. Just the two of them and theirdaughter, who is married to a French officer. As is the case everywhereelse, they talk nothing but war, and are most rabid. They have adaughter in Germany, but she does not seem to enter into theircalculations, and all their thoughts are for France and Belgium. Theirson, who is in the Belgian cavalry, has just got his corporal's stripesfor gallantry in action. The old gentleman is bursting with pride. During the evening another old chap came in with a letter from his son, who is in young M. 's regiment; he had some very nice things to say aboutthe young man's behaviour, and there was a great popular rejoicing. 

The _London Times_ came in during the evening, and there was a greatrevamping of war maps to correspond with the latest movement of troops. The daughter keeps the maps up to date, and does it very well, havingpicked up some training from her husband. She has different colouredlines for each day's progress and it is easy to see at a glance just howthe positions compare for any given times. 

This morning the Germans have big placards up all over town, trying toexplain their action in burning Reims Cathedral. They are doing a lot ofexplaining these days. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, September 26, 1914. _--My departure for Antwerp has been putoff again and again, but if the German authorities live up to theirpromises, I shall be able to start to-morrow morning early. At the lastminute the mothers of Mr. And Mrs. Whitlock decided to avail of theopportunity to go home, so I shall take them as far as Rotterdam beforegoing to Antwerp. I shall attend to my business there and then go backto Rotterdam, take the ladies over to England, turn them over to Mr. N----, spend a day or two there getting a line on the news, and thenrush back to Antwerp, and then back to Brussels. I suppose I shall beaway ten days or so, but there is no way of telling. I should like thelittle trip to England and a breath of air in a country where there isno actual fighting. 

It is now half past eight and there is no telling when this family willsit down to dine. The Burgomaster has indulged in some more reparteewith the German authorities, and they, with their usual _finesse_, haveput him in prison. Yesterday the Germans got out a proclamationannouncing that since the city of Brussels had not settled"voluntarily, " the whole of the forced loan imposed upon her no morerequisitions should be paid in cash, as had been promised. [8] Maxthereupon sat down and wrote a letter to the banks, saying that theywere to pay nothing on the forced loan unless and until the Germansconformed to their part of the agreement. He further annoyed the Germansby putting up an _affiche_, giving the lie to a proclamation of theGovernor of Liège:

 The German Governor of the town of Liège, Lieutenant-General von Kolewe, caused the following notice to be posted yesterday:

 "_To the inhabitants of the town of Liège. _

 "The Burgomaster of Brussels has informed the German Commander that the French Government has declared to the Belgian Government the impossibility of giving them any offensive assistance whatever, as they themselves are forced to adopt the defensive. "

 _I absolutely deny this assertion. _

 ADOLPHE MAX, _Burgomaster. _

[Footnote 8: The German point of view was set forth in the followingofficial notice:

 "The German Government had ordered the cash payment of requisition, naturally believing that the city would voluntarily pay the whole of the forced payment (_contribution de guerre_) imposed upon it. 

 "It was only this condition that could justify the favoured treatment enjoyed by Brussels, as distinguished from the other cities of Belgium which will not have their requisition orders settled until after the conclusion of peace. 

 "Inasmuch as the city administration of Brussels refuses to settle the remainder of the forced payment, from this day forward no requisition will be settled in cash by the Government treasury. 

 "The Military Governor, BARON VON LÜTTWITZ, _Major-General_" Brussels, September 24, 1914. ]

Lüttwitz replied to this by having Max arrested, and the presentprospect is that he is to be sent to Germany as a prisoner of war. Thatis not very comforting for us, as he has been a very calming influence, and has kept the population of Brussels well in hand. If they do sendhim away, the Germans will do a very stupid thing from their own pointof view, and will make Max a popular hero everywhere. 

Early this evening Monsieur Lemonnier, the Senior Alderman, came aroundwith several of his colleagues, and laid the matter before Mr. Whitlockand the Spanish Minister. They immediately went over to see General vonLüttwitz to see whether there was anything to be done for Max, but asthey have been gone a long time, I fear they are going through one ofthose long and thoroughly unsatisfactory discussions that get nowhere. 

Monsieur Lemonnier is waiting in my office to hear the result of thevisit to Lüttwitz. He is naturally far from cheerful, and looks forwardwith a good deal of dread to taking over the reins if Max is sent toGermany. He, of course, foresees that the chances are in favour of hisfollowing Max into exile sooner or later, if he tries to do his duty. Asto his own future he says only--"I succeed only to the troubles of theoffice--_Max a bien emporté sa gloire avec lui. _" The life of a Belgianofficial these days is anything but comfortable. 

 * * * * *

_Sunday Morning. _--We were all up working until two o'clock thismorning. Monsieur Max was spirited away to Namur, and everybody isstanding by for trouble. The people are greatly excited and highlyresentful, but it is to be hoped that they will not do anything rash. The cooler spirits are going about urging calm. The excitement is notlessened by the fact that there is heavy cannonading from the directionof Antwerp. 

Lüttwitz has announced the arrest of Max in the following poster:

 NOTICE. 

 Burgomaster Max having failed to fulfil the engagements entered into with the German Government, I am forced to suspend him from his position. 

 Monsieur Max will be held in honourable detention in a fortress. 

 The Military Governor, BARON VON LÜTTWITZ, _General. _ Brussels, September 26, 1914. 

We are evidently not yet through the epoch of destruction, for theGovernor-General came out to-day with this Proclamation, which is postedon the walls of various towns:

 Recently, in regions not occupied by strong forces of German troops, convoys of transport wagons and patrols have been attacked without warning by the inhabitants. 

 I draw the attention of the public to the fact that a list is kept of the towns and communes in the vicinity of which these attacks have been committed, and that they must expect their punishment as soon as German troops pass near them. 

I have not been able to learn of any places where such attacks havetaken place, but suppose this is merely an evidence of the well-knownnervousness of the army of occupation, and that they are trying tofrighten the people to a point where they will not try to startanything. 

[Illustration: Fire at Namur during the bombardment]

[Illustration: Effect of big German shell on Fort of Waehlem]

[Illustration: Outside view of the Fort of Waehlem after bombardment bybig German guns]

General von Lüttwitz has come out with another Proclamation, forbiddingthe sale of foreign newspapers in Belgium:

 I remind the population of Brussels and its suburbs that it is strictly forbidden to sell or distribute newspapers that are not expressly authorised by the German Military Government. Any infraction of this prohibition will entail the immediate arrest of the vendors, as well as long periods of imprisonment. 

 The German Military Governor, BARON VON LÜTTWITZ, _General. _. 

My _laisser-passer_ has not come, and there is no telling when we shallget away. The Germans swear it was sent last night. 

 * * * * *

_On board S. S. "Oranje Nassau" off Flushing, Sept. 30, 1914. _--We gotaway on Sunday morning about eleven o'clock, after many calls atheadquarters and a mild row about the _laisser-passer_ that had not beensent. It was finally discovered that some boneheaded clerk had sent itby mail--a matter of three days! It was fished out of the military postoffice, and we got away in a few minutes. 

We were in the big car, heavily laden--two trunks, several valises and amail pouch on top--my two passengers inside with their small stuff, thechauffeur and I in front. 

We made quick time out through Tervueren and down to Namur, hearing theheavy booming of cannon all the time away to the north. Ruin was all theway--odd farm-houses burned, towns with half the buildings in them, theGrand Place destroyed, etc. The great square at Namur a heap of brickand mortar. 

The great bridge across the Meuse was dynamited, and the three sectionshung in the river. All the way to Liège the main bridges had beendestroyed, and we had to cross on temporary affairs constructed by theGermans. 

And the Germans were thick all the way, holding us up at frequentintervals to look at our papers. They have it in for Belgium, and are inbad humour. We had some fine samples of it during the day. 

We stopped not far from Huy for a picnic lunch, and then got under wayagain, being stopped frequently all the way to Liège, where we soughtout the Consulate. The Consul had gone to Spa to look after some Englishpeople, but I said my few words to his wife and daughter, and thenhurried away toward Visé and the Dutch frontier. 

_Visé n'existe plus!_ Goodness knows what was done to the place, butthere is nothing left but blackened walls. It took us a long time tofind unencumbered roads and get through between the fallen walls. Notfar from the edge of town we found the last German outpost, and werepromptly put under arrest because my _laisser-passer_ did not bear myphotograph. The officer in command cursed me roundly for daring to comethrough Liège without reporting, placed two armed soldiers in the car, and ordered us sent back. It was futile to point out to him that passesissued by the Military Governor General did not need to conform to thelocal rules; in fact, it only made him peevish. We scorched back overthe road to Liège, but I succeeded in making the soldiers stop at asmall town where there was a local headquarters of some sort with acolonel in command, I got him to look at our pass which had beenconfiscated by our guard, and, after hearing my case and thinkingheavily, he unenthusiastically said we might proceed. We went backthrough Visé even faster, and enjoyed the look of our lieutenant whentold he had been overruled. After a minute or so he became very affableand said he had a brother in Jefferson City, Mo. , and a nephew inSacramento, _Californien_, who runs an _Apoteke_. Just to show there wasno hard feeling, I gave him a cigar, and a few minutes later we crossedthe Dutch frontier, where we created a sensation. A big crowd gatheredaround the car, and, by the time the leisurely custom officers hadexamined the papers given me by the Dutch Legation, they were packed sotight that it took the united effort of several officers and citizens toget us extricated. 

Holland is taking no chances, and has quantities of troops massed inthat part of the country. There are frequent posts to stop travellersand examine papers, and there is practically no traffic on the road savethat of a military character. 

Near Maestricht we ran into a large detachment guarding a bridge. Ourpapers did not satisfy the commanding officer, so we were once moreplaced under arrest and hustled through town to headquarters. Theofficers there were very courteous, and, after examining my papers, madeout a _laisser-passer_ for use in Holland and sent me on my way. 

By this time it was dark, but we determined to push on as far asRoermond--50 kilometers. Here we found a charming little hotel--the Liond'Or--and after a good supper, got early to bed. 

The next day I planned to take the two ladies--who have good nerve, anddon't turn a hair at being arrested--to Rotterdam and then run down toAntwerp, some 280 kilometers, a long run in war time. 

We were off at 6:30, and bowled along beautifully in a bitter cold winduntil we were in sight of Tilburg, where the engine broke down. Eugène, the chauffeur, tried everything he could think of, and tore his hair inrage and shame. Finally we got a soldier on a bicycle to go into Tilburgand get a motor to tow us in. Then two good hours in a garage before wewere in shape to start. 

We caught the boat at Moerdyck and got into Rotterdam a little beforefour. I installed my companions at the Maas Hotel, overlooking the sameold Meuse, and then started back through the rain toward Antwerp. AtWillemsdorp we just missed the boat for Moerdyck and lost an hour. Eugène raged and smoked many cigarettes, to the danger of his health, because his _sacrée_ machine had lost us so much time. 

At eight we got to Rosendaal, near the Belgian frontier, and wereforbidden to go any farther until morning, as the outposts were takingno chances. 

Had a good supper at the little hotel, had my papers viséed by theBelgian Consul, and at 6 o'clock yesterday morning was up and away, byway of Putte. 

The Belgian outposts received us with levelled rifles, but when we gotnear, one of the officers recognised me through his glasses, and we gotthrough without any more trouble. Arrived at the St. Antoine aseverybody was coming down to breakfast. The Germans were bombarding theouter forts, and they could not believe their eyes when I came in. Nota word of news had got through the lines for some days, and I was nearlytorn to pieces by the excited friends. 

I had coffee with Colonel Fairholme, and got all the news he could tellme. Malines has been bombarded again, and Antwerp is filled withrefugees. Before I left, the Germans had occupied Malines itself andwere bombarding the fort at Waelhem. 

After breakfast I started out on my carefully planned campaign. First tothe Consulate-General to get off some telegrams, etc. Then to theForeign Office with a lot of things to attend to. I was able to give vander Elst word that his son is in Magdebourg--a prisoner, but notwounded. The look on his face when he got the news paid for the wholetrip. I saw M. Davignon, and went with him to see the Prime Minister, who had heard I was there and had sent for me. 

On the way we saw hundreds of miserable refugees from Malines pouringdown from the station. The courage of these Belgians is beyond allwords. Save for the two in the freight station yard at Louvain, I havenot seen a woman crying! It may be that they are numb, but they havenone of the stupidity of numbness. And when you think that these verywomen will be creeping back to their homes and caring for the Germanwounded they find there, it gives you a fine lump in the throat. 

I paid a call at the French Legation, went back to the Consulate-Generalto sign my telegrams and mail which had been hammered out, and then tolunch. Got away at 3:30 to the banging of heavy siege artillery andinvitations to come back "if we are still here. " As I was getting intothe car, Prince D---- plucked me by the sleeve and pointed at theCathedral tower high above us. "Take a good look, " he said. "It may notbe here when you come back. "

We made good time through the rain, but missed the boat at Moerdyck, andspent an hour on the dock. Got in at ten, ravenously hungry, had asnack, and then to bed. 

Up again at six and took the seven-thirty train for Flushing. It loafedalong through the country, and we did not sail until eleven. We have togo round to Folkstone, but hope to be in by six o'clock. 

There are not more than twenty people on the ship, and the way they wentthrough our credentials was a caution. I was glad I had taken theprecaution to provide myself with American, British, German, Dutch andBelgian papers for the trip. There is another examination at Folkstone. 

 * * * * *

_On board the S. S. "Brussels, " off Flushing, October 5, 1914. _--Toresume. 

We got into Folkstone last Wednesday evening at sunset, and got throughto London by eight-fifteen. All the latter part of the crossing we werespoken from time to time by British destroyers, which bobbed up fromnowhere to warn of floating mines or give directions as to our course. The entrance to Dover was surrounded by destroyers, and looked grim andwarlike, and what's more, businesslike. 

Thursday morning I got up as late as I decently could and went down tothe Embassy to find Shaler and Couchman waiting for me. They had beenin London since Monday, but had not made much progress with theirmission of getting food for Brussels. This was due to no lack of energyon their part, but to the general difficulty of getting attention forany matter at this time. I went with them to the Belgian Legation, andafter a talk with the Belgian Minister, we got things started. 

As the food was intended for the civil population of Brussels, it wasnecessary to get the Belgian Minister to secure from the Foreign Officepermission to ship it through the blockade. He felt that he must havesome instructions from the Government at Antwerp for his guidance in thematter, so I telegraphed at some length, with the result that he hadample instructions before the sun went down. The next day he made threeor four calls at the Foreign Office and matters were got under way. 

Shaler is buying the food and getting it ready for shipment, and now allthat is holding things up is the actual permission to go ahead and ship. Shaler has had some talk on the general problems that confront us withHerbert Hoover, an American mining engineer, who has given some veryhelpful ideas and may do more still. 

Shaler and Couchman had an experience at Liège they did not particularlyrelish. They were pulled up by a Landsturm guard somewhere in Liège, taken to the Kommandantur, where it was discovered that they werecarrying a number of messages of the"We-are-well-and-hope-you-are-the-same" variety. Without discussion theywere pushed into cells and treated to talk that gave them littlecomfort. They spent the night in jail, but by some means contrived toget word to the Consul, who arrived and delivered them before breakfast. It evidently grieved the Germans that they could not take these two outand shoot them, but they yielded with a bad grace and turned them looseto hasten to the Consul's breakfast table. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, October 11, 1914. _--On Saturday afternoon late I went withHarold Fowler to call on Sir Claude MacDonald, who had been to theEmbassy twice to see me about the English Red Cross nurses in Brussels. I tried to reassure him as to their safety, but he went to see theAmbassador later in the day and asked him to send Harold Fowler back toBrussels with me to bring the nurses out. This suited me perfectly, sowe made preparations to get off together. 

On Sunday evening we left Fenchurch Street at six, with a little groupof friends to see us off. About the only other people on the train werea King's Messenger, a bankrupt Peer and his Man Friday, and a youngstaff officer. Each set of us had a separate compartment and travelledin lonely state to Tilbury, where the boat was waiting. 

As we got aboard the _Brussels_, her sister ship, the _Dresden_, just infrom Antwerp, pulled up alongside, and Mrs. Sherman, wife of theVice-Consul, called me to the rail to give me the latest news. She saidthat everything was going to pieces, that some of the forts had fallen, and that Antwerp might be under bombardment before we got there. Thenshe went ashore in peace, and we went below to seek the seclusion thatthe cabin grants, and fortify ourselves for the bombardment. 

[Illustration: View of the Meuse at Huy]

[Illustration: Refugees fleeing toward Dunkirk before the Germanadvance, after the fall of Antwerp_Copyright by the International News Service_]

We got under way during the night and dropped down to the mouth of theThames, where we lay to until daylight, before starting across. Thefirst sound I heard was a hail from a torpedo-boat destroyer, which sentan officer aboard to lay our course for us through the British minefields. We made our zigzag course across the North Sea and fetched up atFlushing, where we picked up a pilot to take us through Dutch waters. When darkness overtook us we were just about on the Belgian frontierline and had to lie to for the night, getting to Antwerp Tuesday morningabout nine. 

We found the place in a great hubbub--everybody packed and ready toleave. They had been on the point of departure since Friday, and theuncertainty had got on everybody's nerves--and no wonder. 

Several thousand British Marines had arrived and were doing good work, holding back the Germans, while the exhausted Belgians pulled themselvestogether for the evacuation. The Belgian forces had been fighting withlittle rest and no sleep until they were physically incapable of furtherresistance. How human strength held out so long is the great marvel. Winston Churchill was in the Legation when I arrived, with GeneralRawlinson and Colonel Seeley. 

After a call at the Foreign Office, most of which had been installed ona boat in the river, I went to the Palace to see General Jungbluth. Hewas not there, but Countess de Caraman-Chimay said that the King wantedto see me. 

I was taken straight up to him in his Council Chamber, where I found himseated at a great table covered with maps and papers. He pushed themaside wearily as I came in, and rose to greet me. He talked at somelength on the war and the ordeal of Belgium, but was chiefly interestedin how the people were being treated. His interest was not only for hisown friends, but he showed particular interest in learning how thepoorer people were being treated--whether the poorer quarters of thetown were keeping calm and avoiding trouble with the Germans. He wasmost anxious that they should avoid doing anything that would arouse theGermans against them. He spoke simply and touchingly of his confidencein the loyalty and patriotism of all his people, and his certainty thatthey would come through the war with an even greater love of country. 

The rest of the Palace was in confusion, with servants packing andorderlies coming and going. But the King's room was in perfect calm. TheKing sat quite still in his armchair and talked quietly, without haste. He was very serious, and it was clearly to be seen that he felt hisresponsibility and the suffering of his army. But his determination wasjust as evident. He realised that the evacuation was inevitable, andhaving made up his mind to that, he devoted his whole energies andthoughts to seeing that it was carried out effectively and quickly. Hehas a very patent faculty of concentration and of eliminating his ownpersonality and feelings. I have seldom felt so sorry for anyone, partlyperhaps because all of his sympathy was for others. 

When the King finally rose to dismiss me, he said:

"The Queen wants to see you. Will you come back at half-past two?"

I had planned to leave for Brussels immediately after luncheon, but, ofcourse, this was a command to which I gladly yielded. 

The St. Antoine was all hurry and confusion, and the dining room wasbuzzing with conjecture as to whether the bombardment of the city wouldbegin before the exodus was accomplished. The Military Governor hadposted a proclamation to warn the population that it might begin at anytime. There was a certain amount of unconscious humour in hisproclamation. He advised people to retire into their cellars withbedding, food, water and other necessaries; to disconnect the water, gasand electricity; to stuff the staircases with mattresses, as a matter ofprotection; to take with them picks and shovels, so that they could digthemselves out in case their houses fell in; and after a few more hintsof this sort, the Governor genially remarks:

"Having taken these precautions, the population can await thebombardment in calm. "

The German authorities have offered to spare the historic monuments ofAntwerp in their bombardment, if the Belgian General Staff will sendthem maps of the city with such monuments and hospitals clearly; marked. I found that it had been arranged in Brussels that I should collect theplans on my way through Antwerp and deliver them to the Germanauthorities in Brussels, and, of course, agreed to do so. 

After luncheon I went back to the Palace, where I was immediatelyreceived by the Queen in her sitting room. Her Majesty seemed quiteoblivious of the confusion in the Palace, and, like the King, she waschiefly concerned as to the welfare of the people left under Germandomination. I was able to give her comforting news as to the treatmentof the people of Brussels. While we were talking, the roar of the Germanguns seemed to increase and made the windows rattle. There was an outcryin the street, and we went to the window to see a German aeroplanepursued by a British machine. We watched them out of sight, and thenwent back to our talk. The members of the Court had tried to prevailupon the Queen to leave Antwerp, but when it became evident that theplace must be surrendered, she refused to move and told me she wouldstay until the King left. And she did. 

When I got back to the hotel, I found Eugène with news that thedifferential of my car had broken, so that we could not start. It wasimportant that we lose no time in getting the plans of the town to theGerman authorities, so I got Baron van der Elst to go with me to theGeneral Staff and explain the situation. General de Guise promptly wroteout an order that I should be given the best car to be found in thecity. Armed with this, Eugène set forth and gathered in a very prettylittle limousine to bring us back to Brussels. It was evidently a lady'scar and almost too pretty, but we were not exacting and took itthankfully. However, it was too late to start out through the lines, sowe gave up the idea of leaving before morning. We had thought of takingthe route of the army and getting to Brussels by way of Ghent, but thepeople at the General Staff said the road was so crowded with transportthat we would make little progress, and that the better course would beto take exactly the opposite direction and go by way of Tournhout. 

[Illustration: Graves of civilians shot by the Germans]

[Illustration: A typical proclamation

 PROCLAMATION

 A l'avenir les localités situees près de l'endroit ou a eu lieu la destruction des chemins de fer et lignes télégraphiques seront punies sans pitié (il n'importe qu'elles soient coupables ou non de ces actes. ) Dans ce but des otages ont été pris dans toutes les localités situees près des chemins de fer qui sont menacés de pareilles attaques; et au premier attentat à la destruction des lignes de chemins de fer, de lignes télégraphiques ou lignes téléphoniques, ils seront immédiatement fusillés. 

 Bruxelles, le 5 Octobre 1914 _Le Gouverneur, _ VON DER GOLTZ

Translation:

 In future, villages in the vicinity of places where railway and telegraph lines are destroyed will be punished without pity (whether they are guilty or not of the acts in question). With this in view hostages have been taken in all villages near the railway lines which are threatened by such attacks. Upon the first attempt to destroy lines of railway, telegraph, or telephone, they will be immediately shot. 

 The Governor, VON DER GOLTZ]

[Illustration: Two illustrations titled "Views of the Fort of Waehlemafter its bombardment by the big German guns"]

I took several of the ladies of the corps down to the boat, which was totake them to Ostend, which was to be the next stand of the Government. They all took it coolly and went to bed, as though there were nobombardment going on. The King and Queen, the Prime Minister, and therepresentatives of the allies remained in town overnight. 

On one of my trips out of the hotel I met the Queen coming in to saygood-bye to Princess Koudatcheff (wife of the Russian Minister), who wasill. She stopped to greet us and make inquiries as to each one. 

After dark the crowd began to melt. Winston Churchill came down with hisparty, got into motors, and made off for Bruges. The Belgian officersstaying at the hotel got off with their units, and by ten o'clock thestaff of the British Legation, Fowler and I, were left in almostundisputed possession of the hotel. The water-supply was cut. The lightswere out and the place was far from gay, particularly as nearly all theservants had fled, and we could not get anything to eat or drink. 

Most of the town repaired to the cellars for the night, but we decidedthat if it really came, we saw no choice between going down with thehouse into the cellar and having the house come down on top of us, so weturned in and got a night's rest, which, I am free to confess, wasrather fitful. 

All night long motors were snorting away, and all night long the gunskept pounding, although they did not seem to get any nearer. With theintelligence that one has when half awake, I carefully arranged a pillowbetween me and the window, as a protection against shells!

We got up early and went out into the streets to watch the movement. Thefew remaining troops were being poured out on the road to Ghent. Onfoot, in motors, on trains, on bicycles, and on horseback, theystreamed. The civil population was also getting away, and all the tramsin the direction of the Dutch frontier were loaded with people carryingtheir little bundles--all they could hope to take away with them. Thehospitals were being emptied of the wounded and they were getting awayas best they could, those whose legs were all right helping those whohad trouble in walking. It was a depressing sight, and above all, thesound of the big guns which we had heard steadily since the morningbefore. 

We got under way about half-past eight, after a wretched and sketchybreakfast, and after saying good-bye to one of our friends of theBritish Legation. 

First, we went to the north gate, only to find that it had been closedto vehicles a few minutes before, and that barbed-wire entanglements hadbeen stretched across the road. Argument was vain, so we worked our wayback through the traffic and reached the Porte de Tournhout, only to beturned back again. For nearly an hour we wandered about in the streamof refugees, in vehicles and on foot, before we finally succeeded inmaking our way through a side door of the Porte de Tournhout, andstarting that way. We were not at all sure that we should be able toreach the Dutch frontier through Tournhout, as the Germans were supposedto be that far north, but we did make it after a long series of stops, to be examined by all sorts of Belgian outposts who kept cropping up outof fields to stop us and look through our papers. From some littledistance out of town, we could see the shells bursting over the southernpart of the town, or possibly over the villages to the south of the townproper. 

We plowed along through Holland, being stopped all afternoon by CivilGuards, and reached Maestricht at sunset. We went straight to the GermanConsulate to have our papers put in order and learn whether it could bearranged for us to pass the lines at night. Our papers were not in orderbecause they bore no photographs, and the Consul could not see that theGerman interest in our mission made any difference, so that there wasnothing to do but wait over until morning, and get some pictures. 

It took us until ten in the morning to get our photographs and have ourpapers arranged, and by good driving we reached Liège in time to lunchwith the Consul. Then on to Brussels by way of Namur. On the road wepicked up a German officer on his way to Namur, which kindly deed savedus much delay in being stopped by posts. 

We reached Brussels at five and hastened to send the precious plans ofAntwerp to Lancken. We had just settled down at the Legation to a goodtalk when word came that Lancken was anxious to see me at once. I wentover to the Political Department to find that the gentleman merelywanted a formal statement from me as to when I had received anddelivered the plans, so that he could make it a matter of record. Isatisfied him on these points and went my way. 

Then we gathered at the Legation and talked steadily until aftermidnight. 

While I was away the Minister had got off a train-load of Americans, andwith them he had sent the English nurses. That relieved Harold Fowler ofthe mission that brought him, but we bore up bravely. 

The Germans have announced the fall of Antwerp and have apparentlyoccupied the city. At first everybody was much downcast, but on secondthought they have been convinced that the evacuation of the army and thesurrender of an empty shell was a pretty clever piece of work. With thebig siege guns that were in action, it was only a question of days untilthe Germans would have reduced all the forts. And then if the resistancehad been maintained, the greater part of the army would probably havebeen captured. As it is, the Belgians inundated the country to keep theGermans from cutting off their retreat, and made off for Ostend, leavingonly a handful of men with the British Marines, to hold the Germans incheck. So far as we can learn, most of the army has succeeded in gettingaway and forming a junction with the allies. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, October 14, 1914. _--We are quite up in the air about what weare to do next. Monday afternoon I went around to headquarters to get a_laisser-passer_ to take Harold Fowler back to England. While thematter was being attended to, an officer came in and told me that Baronvon der Lancken wanted very much to see me. When I went into his room, he said that there was nothing in particular that he wanted to see meabout, but that he thought I would be interested in hearing the news andin telling him something of my trip. We talked along for some time aboutthings in general, and then he told me that the movement of troopstoward the coast was progressing rapidly and that the Belgian Governmentwould soon be driven from the country. Then putting the tips of hisfingers together and looking me coyly in the eye, he inquired: "And thenmy dear colleague, what will be your position?" He elaborated bypointing out that the Government, to which we are accredited, havingleft the country, we would be merely in the position of foreigners ofdistinction residing here, and that we would have no official rank orstanding. The idea evidently is that they do not care to have us aroundany longer than they can help. 

I later learned that Villalobar had been more ready than I with hisretort. In the course of a call later in the afternoon, Lancken hadtalked the same matter over with him, and had wound up with the samegenial question: "And then my dear colleague, what will be yourposition?" Without any hesitation, Villalobar replied: "My situationwill be just the same as yours. We are both representatives of ourcountry in a country not our own. We shall continue to owe each otherrespect, and to make the best of conditions. "

The latest news we have this afternoon is to the effect that theGovernment has been driven from Ostend, presumably to the Isle ofGuernsey. It would be pleasant, in a way, to retire to a retreat of thatsort for a few months' rest, but I fear there is nothing of that sort instore. 

To-day I ran across an order from the Governor-General forbiddingcivilians to ride bicycles. The order concludes as follows:

 Civilians who, in spite of this, continue to ride bicycles, expose themselves to being shot by German troops. 

 If a cyclist is suspected of planning to damage railroad, telegraph or telephone lines, or of the intention of attacking German troops, he will be shot according to martial law. 

Apparently it is no longer necessary to go through the forms of provingthat the cyclist had any evil intention. The mere suspicion is enough tohave him shot. 

In the course of a visit to General von Lüttwitz to-day, one of thecolleagues remarked that the Germans _must_ keep the Belgians alive, andcould not allow them to starve. Lüttwitz was not at all of that mind, for he said with some show of feeling:

"The allies are at liberty to feed the Belgians. If they don't, they areresponsible for anything that may happen. If there are bread riots, thenatural thing would be for us to drive the whole civil population intosome restricted area, like the Province of Luxembourg, build a barbedwire fence around them, and leave them to starve in accordance with thepolicy of their allies. "

And as the German policy is more or less frankly stated as adetermination to wipe out as many of the enemy as possible withoutregard to what is or has been considered as permissible, it is quitewithin the realm of possibility that they would be prepared to let theBelgian people starve. In any event, you can't gamble with the lives ofseven millions of people when all you have to go on is the belief thatGermany will be guided by the dictates of humanity. 

Fowler was to have left yesterday morning, and had engaged a seat in anew motor that is being run out by way of Maestricht. It was to havecalled at my house at seven o'clock yesterday morning, and we were upand about bright and early. We waited until a little after nine, whenEugène turned up to say that the chauffeur had been arrested and put injail for having carried correspondence and having been caught nosingaround one of the forts at Liège. The service is now suspended, and wedon't see any prospect of his getting off before Friday, when we aresending a courier to the Legation at The Hague. 

Yesterday afternoon we went up to Antwerp to see how our old motor-carwas getting along. It was out of whack, and we were obliged to getanother to come back to Brussels. I took the big car and organised anexpedition of Monsieur de Leval, Fowler and a German official namedConrad, who went along to help us over the rough places. It is the firsttime for weeks that the direct route has been feasible. 

I have had enough of ruined towns, and was not able to get the awfulsights out of my head all night, but spent my time in bad dreams. FromVilvorde right into Antwerp there is not a town intact. Eppeghem, Sempst, Malines, Waehlem, Berchem--all razed to the ground. In Malines agood part of the town is standing and I suppose that the Cathedral canbe restored, but the other towns are done for. There were practically nocivilians in any of them--a few poor peasants poking dismally about inthe ruins, trying to find some odds and ends that they could save fromthe general wreck. There were some children sitting on the steps ofdeserted houses and a few hungry dogs prowling around, but no othersigns of life. All the way from the outskirts of Brussels straightthrough to Antwerp, the road was lined with empty bottles. They gave apretty good idea of what had gone on along the line of march. 

The bombardment of Antwerp lasted from the afternoon that we left up toFriday noon. The damage is pretty evenly distributed. Houses here andthere in every street were badly smashed and the whole block across thestreet from the Hôtel St. Antoine, where we stayed, was burned to theground. The Cathedral was not damaged. 

When we were there last week, the streets were thronged with people andwith motors. Yesterday there was not a soul to be seen for blockstogether. The town was practically deserted. 

The garage where I had left my car had been taken over by the militaryauthorities. The car was put away on the second floor undamaged, butalso unrepaired, so we shall have to wait until things settle down alittle and we can get some work done. I shall have to go back to Antwerpa little later and attend to that. There is some comfort in the factthat the car has not been smashed. 

This morning the Committee for the Provisioning of Brussels came in, andasked whether I was prepared to go to London for them and endeavour toarrange for some sort of permanent agreement with the British Governmentfor the provisioning of the civilian population of Belgium. I amwilling. 

In the course of some errands this afternoon, I dropped in on BaronneLambert for a cup of tea. The Baron came in and then Villalobar. Abouttwo minutes later, Lambert was called out of the room to speak with aGerman officer, who demanded that he accompany him to headquarters. Villalobar went with him to see what was up, and I stayed behind to seeif I could be of any use. We stood by for a little over half an hour, and then when Mme. Lambert could stand it no longer, I jumped in my carand went down to see what was happening. I found Villalobar on thesidewalk, getting into his car. He was depressed and said that he hadbeen obliged to leave the Baron with the Germans; that he was suspectedof nobody would say what, and that the Germans were going to search thehouse. I went back and had them all ready for the shock of the invasion. They were standing by for the search party, when in walked the Baron, smiling broadly. They had sent him home under guard of two armed men, and were to search the house in the course of a few minutes. While hewas telling about it, two officers arrived, profusely apologetic, andasked to be shown over the Red Cross hospital, which had been installedon the ground floor. They were taken all through the place, and foundonly a lot of German soldiers carrying off the beds and otherbelongings. Then they searched the Baron's private office and that ofhis son, and withdrew after more excuses. 

There was nothing to show for the whole performance, and nothing hadbeen accomplished beyond making a lot of people nervous andapprehensive. That is the sort of thing that everybody is subject tothese days, without any hope of redress. And, of course, this was theleast serious thing that could happen. 

 * * * * *

_On board S. S. "Princess Juliana, " off Dover, Sunday, October 19, 1914. _--Here we are again, coming into England in rain and fog. Up tothe last minute, I was in great doubt as to whether we should come atall, but everything was finally straightened out and here we are. 

Friday we spent in hard work, aggravated with many conferences. In themorning most of the German civil and military Government came to theLegation and discussed the food question with the members of theCommittee, the Spanish Minister and ourselves. They all united in askingthat I go to London and lay the situation before the Belgian Minister, the Spanish and American Ambassadors and, under their chaperonage, before the British Government. When this had been agreed to, some brightsoul suggested that I be accompanied by a commission of fifteenprominent Belgians, to add impressiveness to what I had to say. The twoMinisters rose up and said _no_, adding that as I was to do the work andbear the responsibility in going on this mission of forlorn hope, Ishould not be hampered by having to carry the weight of fifteen speechmakers. That was knocked in the head, and then to show that we were notunreasonable, we asked that two members of the Committee go along. Themen chosen were Baron Lambert and Monsieur Francqui, one of the leadingbankers of Brussels and a man of poise and judgment. They expressedreluctance but were soon persuaded. 

This morning, during a call at the Political Department, the talk turnedon Mexico. I was asked what the President was driving at, and answeredthat he was clearly trying to give the Mexicans every opportunity tosolve their own troubles without interference. I was then asked, ratherslyly, whether the President really wanted them to settle theirtroubles. Without waiting to hear my answer, the oracle went on to tellme what our real policy was as he saw it, and he had no doubts. ThePresident wanted to take Mexico, but was intelligent enough to realisethat if he simply seized it, he would forfeit any claim he might have todisinterestedness, and our Anglo-Saxon hypocrisy could not swallow that. Therefore, he was deliberately allowing the Mexicans to drift into ahopeless condition of anarchy, which he knew would get steadily worse, until all the best and most prosperous elements in the country wouldcome to the conclusion that they would be happier and safer underAmerican rule than under the uncertain despotism of changing factions. The President could then yield to their entreaties, and could take overthe government of Mexico as a humanitarian service to the people. 

I made a feeble attempt to explain what our real feelings were towardMexico, but it soon became evident that we could not think in the sameterms, so I gave up. There was no criticism expressed or implied. On thecontrary, there was evidence of real admiration of the President'stechnique. 

The rest of the day was spent in getting ready letters and telegrams andother papers necessary in our work. 

Fowler and I dined at the Lambert's, finished up our work at theLegation, and got to bed at midnight. We got up yesterday morning athalf-past three, and at half-past four set sail in three motors--onefilled with servants and mountains of small baggage. 

We sped in the dark through ruined villages to Antwerp, and from thereto Esschen on the Dutch frontier, which we reached soon after daylight. We had papers from the Dutch Legation, calling upon the customsauthorities to let us pass, but a chuckle-headed _douanier_ would noteven read our papers, and held us up for an hour, while he made outpapers of various sorts and collected a deposit on our cars. Iexpostulated in vain, and shall have to get my comfort from making a rowlater. As a consequence of his cussedness, we missed the morning boattrain to Flushing, and had to spend the day in that charming city. Wefound the place filled with refugees from all parts of Belgium, and weregreeted on every hand by people we knew. The hotels were filled tooverflowing, and people were living in freight cars, sheds and on thesidewalk. We clung to chairs in the reading room at one of the hotels, and walked the streets until nine o'clock, when we got aboard the boatwith eight hundred other people. Cabins were not to be had for love ormoney, but Francqui, by judicious corruption, got us a place to sleep, and we slept hard, despite the noise, which was tremendous. 

 * * * * *

_London, October 20, 1914. _--Here we are, much cheered up by theprospect. 

We hammered hard yesterday and to-day, and this afternoon it looks asthough we had secured the permission of the British Government to sendfood to our people in Belgium. 

We got into Folkstone at 4 o'clock on Sunday, were passed immediately bythe authorities, and then spent an hour and a half waiting for our trainto pull out. We got into darkened London about a quarter of eight. Wesat around and visited beyond our usual hours, and yesterday morning Iwas called ahead of anybody else, so as to get down to my day's work. 

First, I got things started at the Embassy, by getting off a lot oftelegrams and running away from an office full of people who, in somemysterious way, had heard I was here. I saw several of them, but as myday was going, I up and ran. 

First, to Alfred Rothschild's house in Park Lane, where I found BaronLambert waiting for me. He was beaming, as his son (serving in theBelgian army) had turned up safe and well before leaving to rejoin hisregiment in France. 

Next I went to the Spanish Embassy, and gave the Ambassador details ofwhat we wanted. He caught the idea immediately, and has done everythingin his power. 

When I got back to our chancery, I found that the Ambassador had comein, so I went over the whole business again, and made an appointment fora conference with him for the Spanish Ambassador and my travellingcompanions. 

At half-past five we had our conference with the two Ambassadors. Theymade an appointment with Sir Edward Grey for this afternoon, and wentover the situation at some length, to make sure of the details. 

In view of its significance this meeting was most impressive to me. Itwas made up of the two Ambassadors, my two companions, and HerbertHoover, the man who is going to tackle one of the biggest jobs of thetime. He has been studying the situation, the needs of the civilpopulation and the difficulties to be overcome ever since Shaler'sarrival several weeks ago. While we could enlighten him in regard torecent developments and matters of detail I was astonished to see howclearly he grasped all the essentials of the situation. He sat stillwhile the rest of us talked but his few remarks were very much to thepoint, particularly when, in answer to a question, he said very quietly:"Yes, I'll take over the work. I have about finished what I have inhand. Now we can take up this. "

 * * * * *

_October 21st. _--The Belgian Government has sent over Monsieur deBerryer, the Minister of the Interior, to discuss the food question andthe equally important money question. 

I had an early morning note from the Spanish Ambassador and went aroundto see him. 

London is filled with war spirit; not hysterics, but good determinedwork. The streets are full of singing recruits marching hither andyon--mostly yon. The army must be growing at a tremendous rate; in fact, faster than equipment can be provided, and they are not slow about that. 

 * * * * *

_London, October 23, 1914. _--On Wednesday we had things pretty wellsettled, and had also succeeded in raising from official sources aboutone hundred and fifty thousand pounds. I took a fair amount ofsatisfaction in gloating over those who had croaked. Then some helpfulsoul came along and threw a monkey wrench into the machinery, so that agood part of the work has to be done over again. At any rate, we hope toget, some time to-day, permission to export enough food to serve as astop gap until the general question can be settled. 

Monsieur Francqui and Baron Lambert had to start back this morning toorganise the Belgian local committees into one central national affair, and I am to stay on until things are settled one way or the other. Thatmay mean not getting back to Belgium for a week or two more. 

For some time I have been threatening to get a dog and yesterday, feeling the need of intelligent canine sympathy, I succumbed. At theArmy and Navy Stores, I found a hideous brindle bull that some officerhad left on going to the front. He was promptly acquired, and given thename of Max in honour of our Burgomaster. The Stores are to take care ofhim for me until I return to Belgium. 

When I got back to the Embassy, from my visit to the Stores, I foundShaler waiting for me with the news that I was expected at a meeting atMr. Hoover's office in fifteen minutes, to discuss matters with thecommittee which is being formed to handle the feeding of the Belgiancivil population. 

I was surprised to find that I had been made a member of this committee, and was expected to attend. It was a comfort to talk with men who knowwhat they are about and who can make up their minds right the firsttime. Hoover is a wonder and has the faculty of getting big-calibre menabout him. We were not in session more than an hour, but in that time wewent over the needs of the Belgian civil population, the means ofmeeting immediate needs, the broader question of finding food from otherparts of the world to continue the work, the problem of getting moneyfrom public and private sources to pay expenses, and finally theorganisation to be set up in Belgium, England, America and Holland, tohandle the work. Before we left a tentative organisation had beenestablished and people despatched on various duties with orders to getthings started without loss of time, so that food could be pushed acrossthe line into Belgium at the first possible moment. 

It is going to be up-hill work for many reasons, but it would be hard tofind a group of men who inspire as much confidence as these thateverything possible will be done, and occasionally a little that isimpossible. 

[Illustration: Herbert C. Hoover_Copyright by Underwood & Underwood_]

[Illustration: French Howitzer near H----]

[Illustration: German camp kitchen]

 * * * * *

_October 24th. _--Yesterday was another busy day. I did not know that theentire population of Belgium could make such a crowd as I have had inthe waiting-room of the chancery. In some mysterious way the news of mycoming to London has got about, and swarms of people are coming in withlittle errands they want done and messages to be delivered to theirfriends and families in Brussels. It makes work, but that sort of thingis a comfort to lots of people and is worth undertaking. I have made itclear to all of them that anything to be delivered will be turned overto the German authorities first, and hope they will govern themselvesaccordingly. 

The British Government has stipulated that the feeding of the civilpopulation shall be carried on by a neutral organisation, under thepatronage of the American and Spanish Ambassadors in London and Berlin, and the American and Spanish Ministers in Brussels. The food is to beconsigned to the American Minister in Brussels for distribution by theorganisation which is to be known as the American Relief Committee, withHoover as chairman and motive power. The various local Belgiancommittees are to be grouped together in a national organisation, toassist in the distribution of the foodstuffs once they are deliveredinside the Belgian frontier. The members of the Belgian organisationare, of course, prisoners of the Germans and unable to give anyeffective guarantees as to the disposal of the supplies. The BritishGovernment has, therefore, stipulated that all authority andresponsibility are to be vested in the American Committee, and that theBelgians are to be regarded simply as a distributing agency. This is, ofcourse, in no sense a reflection of the Belgians engaged on the work, but merely a recognition of the difficulties of their position. 

The neutral composition of the Committee assures it a freedom of traveland action, and an independence of political and personal pressure, anda consequent freedom of administration which the Belgians could not hopeto enjoy. It is only by the assumption of complete authority andresponsibility by the Committee that the patrons will be able to givethe various Governments concerned the necessary assurances as to thedisposition of foodstuffs and the fulfillment of guarantees. 

There is something splendid about the way Hoover and his associates haveabandoned their own affairs and all thought of themselves in order toturn their entire attention to feeding the Belgians. They haveabsolutely cut loose from their business, and are to give their wholetime to the work of the Committee. This is done without heroics. Ishould hardly have known it was done, but for the fact that Hooverremarked in a matter of fact way:

"Of course everybody will have to be prepared to let business go andgive their whole time. "

And it was so completely taken for granted that there is nothing but amurmur of assent. 

Another strenuous day on the food question and other things. 

My plans were to leave for Brussels on Monday morning, but in theevening the Ambassador sent for me and it was decided that I should goto Havre and from there to see the King and Queen. That will take me towithin a couple of hours from Brussels, according to old calculations, but under present conditions I shall have to get there by way of France, England and Holland. 

 * * * * *

_Hôtel des Régates, Havre, October 26, 1914. _--This is the third townwhere I have paid my respects to the Belgian Government. I would gladlyhave foregone the experience, for it is depressing. 

I left Waterloo station at 9:15 last night. Instead of the usualtwo-hour run to Southampton, we puttered along and did not arrive untilafter one. I had a compartment and made myself as comfortable aspossible. When we arrived I found poor Colonel Swalm, the Consul, waiting for me. The Ambassador had telegraphed him to see me off, and hedid so regardless of the hour. I felt horribly guilty to have himwaiting about for me, but it certainly did make things a lot easier. 

I got straight to bed, but had a hard time sleeping, as there was atremendous racket of loading all night long. Nearly all the passengerswere British officers on their way to the front. Among the others Ifound de Bassompierre of the Foreign Office, and a Mr. And Mrs. W----, who were coming over with a Rolls-Royce, to be presented to the BelgianGeneral Staff. If I go to the front, he will take me. We sailed atdaybreak and were here by two o'clock. Our Consul, Osborne, was waitingfor me at the dock with Henry Needham, the correspondent of _Colliers_. I was let straight through the customs, where a _woman_ marked my bag, and then came to this hotel overlooking the sea. 

This was the first thing we saw as we came into the harbour. It is in asuburb called Nice Havrais, built by old Dufayel of Paris. It was acurious and pathetic sensation to see the Belgian flags still flyingbravely. The different Ministries are set up here, and one villa hasbeen set aside for the King and Queen, who have not yet left Belgiansoil. The Legations are all established in this hotel and are bored toextinction, as their work has dropped very much. This little suburbenjoys all the privileges of extraterritoriality, and even the FrenchMinister to Belgium goes through the motions of being accredited to aforeign Government in his country. The cars of the various Legations gobuzzing around among the French and Belgian and British cars. Thestreets are full of troops of the three nations, while some twentytransports ride at anchor in the open roadstead. Fresh troops fromEngland are arriving constantly, and march singing through the town tothe camps outside, whence they are sent to the front. There are twoBritish hospitals near this hotel--one of them the Casino--and woundedare everywhere. The place is astonishingly calm, but everybody knowsthere is a war. The French have their teeth set and are confident of thefinal outcome. Women are in the custom house, drive the trams, collectthe fares and do a hundred other things that are usually out of theirline. 

I found the hall filled with colleagues, and exchanged greetings withthe crowd before going over to the Foreign Office to make my bow. Ifound Colonel Fairholme packing, and ready to leave this evening forEngland. 

The Foreign Office has a pretty little villa in a pretty little gardenand keeps busy. I saw everybody, from Monsieur Davignon down to theporters, and spent an hour and a half there. Then at their request Iwent to the "Palace" and talked with General Jungbluth. He will try toarrange my business for me by telegraph, and will let me know in themorning whether I am to go up to the front to see the King and Queen. 

When I came away from this call, Osborne was waiting for me and took medown to the Consulate for an hour's talk. Then back to the hotel to dinewith Sir Francis. After dinner we all went out and bade the Colonelfarewell. 

 * * * * *

_Tuesday. _--General Jungbluth was waiting for me when I came down thismorning, to say that I should go to the front. Osborne was waiting withhis car, and took me to the Ministry of War, to ask for a lift toDunkerque in a military car. As luck would have it, to-day's car hadleft ten minutes before, so I was put off until to-morrow morning, whenI shall go up with the W----s. I have spent a good part of the daygetting my papers in order--both French and Belgian--and in the tiresomeoccupation of being photographed. 

 * * * * *

_October 28th, Hôtel des Arcades, Dunkerque. _--Another one-night stand. 

We cleared out of Havre this morning over muddy and slippery roads. Itrained hard all night, and we made good time by way of Fécamp, Dieppe, Eu, Abbeville, Montreuil, Bologne, Marquise, and Calais, getting toDunkerque a little after four, just in time to smell the smoke of acouple of bombs dropped by an aeroplane across the street from theoffice of the Prime Minister, upon whom I called. 

We began running into big bunches of troops at Abbeville--English, French and Belgian. I saw some of the Indian troops doing sentry dutyand looking cold and uncomfortable, and did not blame them, for it wasraw and cheerless. The Rolls-Royce is a beauty and sailed along all daylike a gondola. 

The Prime Minister had set up his office in the Mayor's room at theHôtel de Ville, which I found in an uproar because of the bombs. ThePrime Minister was said to be at Headquarters, at Furnes, across theBelgian frontier, and I was urged to go there to see him. We madetwenty-one kilometers there, in time to find that little town in a greatstate of excitement, because three big shells had come from nobody knewwhere, and burst by the railroad station. 

But the Prime Minister was not there, and it was dark, so we gathered upa guide and set off for la Panne, where the King and Queen are living. Neither of them was there; nobody but a gendarme on duty. The King wasoff with the troops and the Queen was looking after the wounded, whohave overflowed all the hospitals. In the past week--just this oneengagement--the Belgians have suffered 12, 000 casualties. 

The road from Furnes to la Panne and back lay close behind the lines, sothat we could hear the steady roar of the fighting and see the burstingshells, particularly those from the British ships, which made atremendous flash and roar. 

We came on back to town, being stopped every minute by French outposts, and got to this hostelry at seven-thirty. While I was cleaning up, thePrime Minister came in and claimed me for dinner. He had his secretary, Count Lichtervelde, A. B. , who is here looking after the wounded, and acouple of officers. And _then_ we talked until the hands dropped off theclock and I was nearly dead for sleep. Then I took A. B. Home to herhospital, through the streets darkened for the benefit of CountZeppelin, and _now_ I _am_ ready for my rest. 

I have plans for to-morrow, but shall see what happens to them when Isee the Prime Minister in the morning. 

 * * * * *

_October 29th. _--Still at Dunkerque. 

Another busy and interesting day, and if all goes well, I shall be backin London to-morrow night. 

I was up early, did a little writing, and went over to see the PrimeMinister, who was waiting for me. Despatched my business with him inshort order, to my complete satisfaction. He is a trump, and it is a joyto do business with him, even at a time when he is hounded, as he isnow. 

He said the King was out with the troops, but had sent in to say hewanted to see me and would come in to headquarters at Furnes atfour-thirty for that purpose. The Queen had also sent word in that shewanted to see me. She was busy looking after the wounded, but said shewould come to la Panne at four. That suited me, although I was in somedoubt as to how I would be able to make connections between the twoaudiences. 

Last night I had talked of going out to look at the fighting, and A. B. Had offered to conduct me. I had not taken the offer very seriously, butwhen I got back to the hotel after seeing the Prime Minister, she wasthere in a big racing car, with a crack chauffeur, ready for the jaunt. She was in her campaign kit of knickers, with a long rain-coat and a bigknitted cap, and an entrancing boy she made. Mr. And Mrs. W---- hadasked to go along, and were in their car with Barbaçon, an aide-de-campof the Prime Minister. Monsieur de Broqueville came out quite seriouslyand begged A. B. Not to lead me into danger, whereat everybody had a goodlaugh. 

We made quick time to Furnes and drew up before Headquarters, where welearned what was known of the lay of the land and the points of thefront we could reach without getting in the way. The Belgians, who hadfor ten days held the line of the Yser from Nieuport to Dixmude, waitingfor reinforcements to come up, had been obliged to fall back to the lineof the railroad, which forms the chord of the arc, and had inundated theintervening territory to impede the German advance. French and Englishtroops were being brought up in large numbers to relieve the Belgians, who have lost in killed and wounded nearly a third of the 50, 000 menengaged. 

While waiting for some definite news to be brought in for us, we climbedto the top of the high tower of the market next the Hôtel de Ville, fora look at the battle line. It was pretty misty, but we could see thesmoke of shrapnel and of the big shells from the English ships, whichwere enfilading the German right. 

The staircase up this tower was a crazy thing, with rotten steps andplaces where two or three steps were missing altogether. It was badenough going up where we could take hold and pull ourselves up, but itwas far worse going down, because we were ordered down in a hurry andall came piling down in a steady stream. There were squeaks and screamsat the bad moments, but we did manage to get down without mishap andtake stock of ourselves. 

We found some German prisoners lying on the straw in the entrance hall, and stopped to speak to them. They said that their troops were verytired from long, hard fighting, but that they had plenty of men. Theyseemed rather depressed themselves. 

By the time we got down, our information had come and we set off througha welter of transport trains, artillery, ambulances, marching troops, and goodness knows what else, in the direction of X----. When we gotwithin a couple of kilometers of the place, an officer stopped us andasked if we knew where we were going. He shrugged his shoulders when wesaid we did, and let us go straight into it. When we were bowling alongabout one kilometer from the town, three shells burst at once, about twohundred yards to our left, and we stopped to see what was toward. Ahundred yards ahead to the right of the road was a battery of five bigguns, and the Germans were evidently trying to get their range. Theshells kept falling to the left, near a group of farm-houses, and assome of the spent balls of shrapnel kept rolling around near us, wedecided we might as well go and see the big guns from nearer to. 

In the shelter of the farm-houses were fifty or sixty men, some of themcooking their lunch, others sleeping, all quite oblivious of the roar ofbursting shrapnel and the spattering of the bullets near by. And a fewmonths ago probably any of these men would have been frightened into afit by a shell bursting in his neighbourhood. It is wonderful how soonpeople become contemptuous of danger. The horses that were tethered bythe roadside seemed to take it all as a matter of course, and munchedaway at their hay, as though all the world were at peace. A wobbly cartcame creaking by with an infantryman, who had had a good part of hisface shot away. He had been bandaged after a fashion and sat up blinkingat us stupidly as the cart lumbered by, bumping into holes and slidinginto ruts. 

I was not keen on staying longer than was necessary to see what wasthere, but W. ---- was very deliberate and not to be budged for more thanhalf an hour. We finally got him started by calling his attention to thespent balls, which make a tremendous singing noise, but do no harm. Theonly really safe thing in the neighbourhood was what did the trick. TheGermans were making a furious attack, evidently determined to break theline before the fresh troops could be brought up, and the cannonadingwas terrific. The whole front as far as we could see in either directionwas a line of puffs of smoke from bursting shrapnel and black spouts ofearth from exploding shells. The crackle of the _mitrailleuses_ rippledup and down the whole line. The Belgians were pounding back as hard asthey could and the noise was deafening. Finally, when we decided toleave, the officer in command of the battery loaded all five guns atonce and fired a salvo for our benefit. The great shells tore away, roaring like so many express trains, and screaming like beasts inagony--a terrifying combination. My ears ache yet. It was getting hotterevery minute and the Germans were evidently getting a better idea of therange, for the shells began falling pretty close on the other side, andI was quieter in my mind when we went back to our cars and pulled out ofthe actual line. We took a road a few hundred yards back, parallel withthe lines, and drove along slowly, watching the effect of the shellfire, until we absolutely had to start back for lunch. On the way westopped at a peasant's hut, and said hello to Jack Reyntiens. 

When we got back to the hotel, about half an hour late for lunch, wefound the Prime Minister waiting for us. At the door, in addition to theusual sentry, there were two privates of the _chasseurs à cheval_, onewearing a commander's star of the Legion of Honor. They saluted andsmiled, and I bowed and went on in to my meal. They came in after me, still smiling, and I was taxed with not recognising them. They were theDuc d'Ursel and --------, the heads of their respective houses, who hadenlisted, and are still fighting as privates. They had just beenrelieved and were on their way to the rear, where the Belgian army isbeing reformed and rested. 

As soon as we had got through, I had to start back for my audience ofthe Queen. W. ---- took me out to la Panne, where we found the Villa onthe sand dunes, a little way back of the lines. There were a couple ofgendarmes on duty, the King's Secretary, and the Countess deCaraman-Chimay, the one Lady-in-Waiting. I had just got inside when thedoor opened and the King came in. He had heard I was coming to see theQueen and had motored down from Furnes. I was able to satisfy him in afew minutes on the points he had wanted to see me about and then hequestioned me about friends in Brussels. I suggested to him that itwould probably help our committee in raising funds if he would write anappeal for help from America. He fell in with the idea at once, andtogether we got out an appeal that is to be sent across the water. Wherewe sat we could see the British ships shelling the Germans, and thewindows of the dining-room were rattling steadily. The King stood besidethe table with his finger tips resting on the cloth, watching the stuffground out word by word. I looked up at him once, but could not bear todo it again--it was the saddest face one can imagine, but not a word ofcomplaint was breathed. 

Just as we were finishing, the Queen came and bade us in to tea. She wassupposed to wait for her Lady-in-Waiting to bring me, but didn't. TheKing stayed only a minute or two and then said he must be getting backto Headquarters, where he would see me later. 

I suggested to the Queen that she, too, make an appeal to the women ofAmerica, to which she agreed. Another appeal was prepared for her, andit, too, will be sent to America by the first post. 

The Queen had wanted to see me about the subject of surgeons for theBelgian army. The Belgian surgeons in the Brussels hospitals have beenreplaced by Germans, and have nothing to do, although they aredesperately needed here. The Queen was terribly depressed about thecondition of the wounded. There are so few surgeons, and such tremendousnumbers of wounded, that they cannot by any possibility be properlycared for. Legs and arms are being ruthlessly amputated in hundreds ofcases where they could be saved by a careful operation. Carefuloperations are, of course, out of the question, with the wounded beingdumped in every minute by the score. In these little frontier townsthere are no hospital facilities to speak of, and the poor devils arelucky if they get a bed of straw under any sort of roof, and medicalattendance, within twenty-four hours. We went to see one hospital in anear-by Villa, and I hope I shall never again have to go through such anordeal. Such suffering and such lack of comforts I have never seen, butI take off my hat to the nerve of the wounded, and the nurses, most ofthem the best class of Belgian women, used to every luxury and gettingnone. 

The Queen gave me tea, and one of her small supply of cigarettes, and wetalked until after dark. The monitors off shore had been joined by abattleship, and the row was terrific and rendered conversationdifficult. 

The Queen was still full of courage and said that as long as there wasone square foot of Belgian soil free of Germans, she would be on it. Shesaid it simply, in answer to a question from me, but there was a bigforce of courage and determination behind it. As I was not dismissed, Ifinally took it on myself to go, and the Queen came with me to the doorand sent me on my way. She stood in the lighted doorway until I reachedthe motor, and then turned slowly and went in--a delicate little womanwith a lion's heart. Inglebleek and the Countess de Caraman-Chimay cameout after we had cranked the car, and gave me messages for theirfamilies and friends. It is a pretty hard change for these people, whothree months ago were leading such a dull, comfortable life, but theyhave risen to it with fine spirit. 

The King was with his staff, studying the maps and despatches, when Igot to Furnes, and I was shown the whole situation--most interesting onthe large scale maps that show every farm-house and pathway. I was to goback to Dunkerque with Monsieur de Broqueville, so waited while theydiscussed the events of the day and plans for to-morrow. 

While they talked reinforcements were pouring through the town, withgreat rumbling of artillery and blowing of trumpets. It was a comfortingsound, as it presaged some relief for the Belgians in theirheartbreaking stand. 

There was comfort in riding back through the night with the PrimeMinister, for there was no long examination of papers, etc. When we cameto a post, the aide-de-camp would switch on a strong light in the car, the sentries would salute, and on we would go at a great gait. 

Seemingly I was boarding with Monsieur de Broqueville, as I was led backto dine with him. 

To-morrow I am off to London. Loewenstein, a young Brussels banker, isto take me over in his racing car, which is a useful institution thesedays. We take along his mother-in-law, Madame Misonne, and A. B. Itmeans getting up at five to motor to Calais to catch the boat. There thecar will be slung aboard, so that we can be whisked up to London withoutwaiting for a train. 

 * * * * *

_On board S. S. "Orange Nassau, " North Sea, November 2, 1914. _--On Fridaymorning we were called before dawn, and got under way as perschedule--Loewenstein, Madame Misonne, A. B. , and I. We made good time, over slippery roads, to Calais, despite frequent stops to have ourpapers examined by posts, and got to the dock some twenty minutes beforethe steamer sailed. The car was hoisted aboard, and we rode across init. Frederick Palmer was on board, returning in disgust after havingbeen just that far toward the front. 

Our suicide wagon was swung off onto the dock without loss of time, andwe sped away toward London while our fellow-passengers were doomed towait for all sorts of formalities. It was a wild ride. At times we weredoing as high as one hundred and thirty kilometers an hour over windingEnglish roads, and I was somewhat relieved when I was dropped at theEmbassy, safe and sound. 

I got off some telegrams about my trip, and was told the Ambassadorwanted to see me. Hoover was with him, and I turned over to them theappeals from the King and Queen. 

Jack Scranton decided to come back to Brussels with me, to give me ahand in Legation work, and spent the morning packing enough plunder tosee him through a siege of three or four years. A. B. Came on to Londonto see her brother who is seriously wounded and in hospital. Now herfamily want her to return to Brussels and have placed her in my care forthe journey. 

This morning we had a crowd at the station to see us off. CountessN. ---- has also come along, and was entrusted to our care. A. B. 's familywas there in force to say good-bye, so altogether the casual observermight have inferred that we were popular. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, November 5th. _--We were met in Flushing by our ConsularAgent, who put us through the customs and onto the train. 

No motor was waiting for us at Rosendaal, and we had a hard time gettingshelter for the night. Finally we succeeded in getting a room for thetwo women in a little, third-rate hotel, and Jack and I slept on thefloor of a sitting-room in the little Hôtel Central. I was so dog-tiredthat I slept like a log, wrapped up in my fur coat. 

While we were having coffee, M. De Leval came up in my little car. Hehad been to Rotterdam in connection with the first shipment of food, andthought he would find me alone. He had bought a lot of gasoline inBreda, to be called for, so we could take no luggage. We found anothercar leaving for Brussels at noon, and loaded it up with Countess N. , ---- Jack and the luggage, while M. De L. And I took A. B. And the mailbags, and started by way of Breda. We came through Aerschot and stoppedfor a stretch and to look about. 

We walked about the streets for a time, and stopped in a shop to ask fora drink of water. After giving it to us, the proprietor asked if wewould like to see the state the Germans had left things in. He led usback into his living quarters, opened a door bearing an inscription tothe effect that it was an officers' mess, and let us in. I never haveseen a more complete mess. Everything in the place was smashed, and thewhole room was filthy. The officers had left only a few days before andhad taken pains to break everything before they went. Obscene remarkswere chalked on the walls, and the pictures were improved with heavyattempts at fun. I always used to think that the term "officer andgentleman" was redundant, but now I begin to understand the need for it. 

The church was also in a bad state. The doors have nearly all beenbattered down. The wooden Gothic statues in the nave have been smashedor destroyed by fire. The altars and confessionals were wantonlydestroyed. The collection boxes had been pried open and emptied. We weretold that the holy-water font and the vestments of the priests had beenprofaned and befouled. It is not a pretty sight. 

Aerschot was partially destroyed on August 19th and 20th. The Germansclaim that their commanding officer was shot by the son of theBurgomaster. The Belgians claim that he was struck by a stray bulletfired at random by one of his own men in the marketplace. However thatmay be, the whole place was instantly in an uproar, and quiet was notrestored until the town had been sacked and over one hundred and fiftypeople killed, among them women and children. The Burgomaster and hisson and a priest were among those shot and buried outside the Louvaingate. One of those taken to the place of execution was spared oncondition that he should go to Louvain to tell of what had happened. 

Louvain has been cleaned up a lot, and we stopped there only long enoughto have our passes examined at Headquarters, getting back a littlebefore six to a warm welcome. 

The other motor was due at six, but did not come, and after waiting uptill midnight, I turned in. Jack bobbed up yesterday at noon. The carhad been stopped at the frontier because several of the passengers hadnot proper papers. Jack threw out his chest and insisted on being takento Antwerp to see the Military Governor. His passport, as bearer ofdespatches, did the business, and they were allowed to proceed underarmed guard. They were kept overnight in the Hôtel Webber, and then Jackand Mme. N---- were allowed to come on to Brussels in the car, while theothers were detained. 

Marshal Langhorne came in to-day from The Hague to effect formaldelivery of the first bargeload of food, and had weird tales to tell ofhis adventures by the way. Thank goodness, the first of the food hasarrived in time, and if the flow can be kept up, the worst of ourtroubles will be averted. 

With this first consignment of food came the story of how it was gotthrough in such record time. Hoover is one of these people who isinclined to get things done and attend later to such details as gettingformal permission, etc. 

With Shaler's forty thousand pounds and promises of five hundredthousand dollars more, he went to work and placed orders for twentythousand tons of food, costing two million dollars a week. This he didon the theory that money would come along later, when the need wasrealised, but that the Belgian stomachs would not wait until collectionshad been made. He purchased the food, got it transported to the docks, and loaded on vessels that he had contrived to charter, while all theworld was fighting for tonnage, got them loaded and the hatches closed. 

When everything was ready, Hoover went to the proper authority and askedfor permission to ship the food, announcing that unless he could getfour shiploads of food into Belgium by the end of the week, the peoplewould begin to starve. The functionary was sympathetic, but regrettedthat in the circumstances, he could not help. It was out of the questionto purchase food. The railways were choked with troops, munitions andsupplies. Ships were not to be had for love or money. And above all, theChannel was closed to commerce. 

Hoover heard him patiently to the end. 

"I have attended to all this, " he said. "The ships are already loadedand ready to sail. All I need from you is clearance papers. You can letme have them, and everything will be all right. "

The high official could hardly believe his ears:

"Young man, " he gasped, "perhaps you don't realise what you have done. Men have been sent to the Tower for less. If it were for any othercause, I hesitate to think what would happen to you. But as it is, I canonly congratulate you on some very good work. "

And that's how we got our food in time. 

Fines are being imposed on towns on one pretext or another. The otherday two policemen got into a controversy with a German secret-serviceagent who did not explain who he was, and got a good thumping for doingvarious things that a civilian had no business to do. This morning vonLüttwitz comes out with this proclamation:

 On the 28th of October, 1914, a legally constituted court martial pronounced the following sentences:

 (1) The policeman De Ryckere for having attacked, in the legal exercise of his duties, an authorised agent of the German Government, for having deliberately inflicted bodily hurt in two instances with the aid of other persons, for having aided in the escape of a prisoner and for having attacked a German soldier, was condemned to five years' imprisonment. 

 (2) The policeman Seghers for having attacked, in the exercise of his legal duties, an authorised agent of the German Government, for having deliberately inflicted bodily hurt on this German agent, and for having aided the escape of a prisoner (all these offences constituting one charge), was condemned to three years' imprisonment. 

 The sentences were confirmed on October 31st by the Governor-General, Baron von der Goltz. 

 The city of Brussels, not including its suburbs, has been punished for the injury by its policeman De Ryckere to a German soldier, by an additional fine of Five Million Francs. 

 The Governor of Brussels, BARON VON LÜTTWITZ, _General_. 

 Brussels, November 1, 1914. 

Last night we dined at Ctesse. N----'s to celebrate everybody's safereturn. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, Sunday, November 8, 1914. _--Barges of food are beginning tocome in, and we have the place filled with people with real businessconcerning the food and a lot of the usual "halo-grabbers" anxious togive advice or edge into some sort of non-working position where theycan reap a little credit. 

We are put on German time to-day. 

On November 4th the Governor-General came out with a proclamationordering that German money be accepted in all business transactions. Itis to have forced currency at the rate of one mark to one franc, twenty-five centimes. As a matter of fact, it is really worth about onefranc, seven centimes, and can be bought at that rate in Holland orSwitzerland, where people are glad enough to get rid of their Germanmoney. Any shop refusing to accept German paper money at the stipulatedrate is to be immediately closed, according to the Governor's threat. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, November 9, 1914. _--Late in the afternoon Jack and I took Maxfor a run in the Bois. While we were going across one of the broadstretches of lawn, an officer on horseback passed us, accompanied by amounted orderly. To our surprise the orderly drew his revolver and beganwaving it at us, shouting at the same time that if that ------------ dogcame any nearer, he would shoot him down. The officer paid no attention, but rode on ahead. I started after them on foot, but they began to trotand left me in the lurch. I ran back to the motor, overtook them, andplaced the car across their path. The officer motioned his orderly to goahead, and then let me tackle him. He took the high ground that I had noreason to complain since the dog had not actually been shot, not seemingto realize that peaceable civilians might have legitimate objections tothe promiscuous waving of revolvers. He declined to give his name orthat of the soldier, and I gave up and let him ride on after expressingsome unflattering opinions of him and his kind to the delight of thecrowd that had gathered. They did not dare say anything direct, but as Igot back into the car they set up a loud "_Vive l'Amérique_. " Theofficer looked peevish and rode away very stiff and haughty. Of course, since he refused to give his name, there was no getting at him, and Iwas free to be as indignant as I liked. 

The Germans are tightening up on the question of travel in the occupiedterritory, and we are now engaged in a disagreeable row with them overpasses for the Legation cars. They want to limit us in all sorts of waysthat make no difference to them, but cut down our comfort. They willprobably end by giving us what they want; but when it is all done weshall have no feeling of obligation, having been forced to fight for it. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, November 14, 1914. _--On the morning of the 10th, I came downto the Legation and found things in an uproar. A telegram had beenreceived saying that two trainloads of food, the first shipment for theProvince of Liège, would cross the frontier in the course of theafternoon, under convoy of Captain Sunderland, our Military Attaché atThe Hague. The Minister and I are the only people authorized to receiveshipments; and, as no power of attorney had been sent to the Consul atLiège, things were in a nice mess; and, at the request of the Germanauthorities and the Committee, it was decided that I should go down, receive the stuff and make arrangements for its protection and for thereception of future shipments. The German authorities were so excitedabout my being there to head off any trouble that they hustled me off onan hour's notice without any lunch. I contrived to get Jack's name puton the _laisser-passer_, so that he could go along and see a littlesomething of the country. Joseph, the Legation butler, was wild to goalong as far as his native village to see his aged ma, whom he had notseen since the beginning of the war, and he rode on the front seat withMax who was much delighted to get under way again. 

Jack was thrilled with the trip, and nearly fell out of the car goingthrough Louvain and the other ruined villages along the way. As we werein such a rush, I could not stop to show him very much; but in most ofthese places no guide is needed. Louvain has been cleared up to aremarkable extent, and the streets between the ruined houses are neatand clean. On my other trips I had had to go around by way of Namur, butthis time we went direct; and I got my first glimpse of Tirlemont andSt. Trond, etc. 

When we reached Liège we went straight to the Consulate without pausingto set ourselves up at a hotel, but found that nothing was known ofCaptain Sunderland or his food trains. Thence to the German headquarterswhere we inquired at all the offices in turn and found that thegentleman had not been heard from. By the time we got through ourinquiries it was dark; and, as we had no _laisser-passer_ to be outafter dark, we had to scuttle back to the hotel and stay. 

In the morning the Consul and I started off again to see what had becomeof our man. We went through all the offices again, and as we were aboutto give up, I found Renner, who used to be Military Attaché of theGerman Legation here, and is now Chief of Staff to the MilitaryGovernor. He cleared up the mystery. Sunderland had arrived about thesame time I did, but had been taken in hand by some staff officers, dined at their mess, and kept busy until time for him to be off forMaestricht. He was, however, expected back in time to lunch at theofficers' mess. He was also expected to dine with them in the evening. Ileft word that I wanted to see him and made off to get in touch with themembers of the local committee and make arrangements as to what was tobe done with the food. We sat and waited until nearly dark, when Idecided to go out for a little spin. I gathered Jack and the Consularfamily into the car and went for a short spin. 

After losing our way a couple of times we brought up at the Fort ofChaudefontaine, which was demolished by the Germans. It is on top of averitable mountain and it took us some time to work our way up on thewinding road. When we got there the soldiers on guard made no troubleand told us that we could mouse around for fifteen minutes. We walkedout to the earthworks, which had been made by the Belgians andstrengthened by the Germans, and then took a look at the fort itself, which was destroyed, and has since been reconstructed by the Germans. They must have had the turrets and cupolas already built and ready toship to Liège, for the forts are stronger than they ever were beforeand will probably offer a solid resistance when the tide swings back, unless, of course, the allies have by that time some of the big gunsthat will drop shells vertically and destroy these works the way theGerman 42's destroyed their predecessors. It was very interesting to seeand hard to realise that up to three months ago this sort of thing wasconsidered practically impregnable. 

When we got back we found that our man had come and had left word thathe could be found at the Café du Phare at six o'clock. We made straightfor that place, and found him. I made an appointment with him for thefirst thing next morning, and went my way. 

I was bid to dine with the German Military Governor and his staff, buttold Renner that since we were accredited here to the BelgianGovernment, accepting German hospitality would certainly be consideredas an affront. He saw the point, and did not take offence, but asked meto come over after dinner for a talk and bring Jack along, the which Ipromised to do. While we were dining, a soldier with a rifle on hisshoulder strode into the dining-room and handed me a paper; greatexcitement, as everybody thought we had been arrested. The paper was apass for us to circulate on the streets after dark, so that we could goover to the headquarters. It was written on the back of a menu inpencil. Although dinner was over the entire mess was still gatheredabout the table discussing beer and Weltpolitik. At the head of thetable was Excellenz Lieutenant-General von Somethingorother, who wascommanding a German army on the eastern front when they got withinfifteen miles of Warsaw. After being driven back he had an official"nervous breakdown, " and was sent here as Governor of the Province ofLiège--quite a descent, and enough to cause a nervous breakdown. Therewas another old chap who had fought in the Franco-Prussian war and hadnot yet quite caught up with this one. I foregathered with Renner andgot my shop talk done in a very short time. Then everybody set to toexplain to us about the war and what they fought each other for. It wasvery interesting to get the point of view, and we stayed on until nearlymidnight, tramping home through a tremendous downpour, which soaked us. 

The next morning at eleven I met Sunderland. We saw the Governor and theMayor and Echevins, and talked things out at length. I had to collect apart of the cost of the food before I could turn it over, and theyexplained that the chairman of the local committee had gone to Brusselsto negotiate a loan; he would be back in four or five days and if Iwould just wait, they would settle everything beautifully. That did notplease me, so I suggested in my usual simple and direct way that theGovernor rob the safe and pay me with provincial funds, trusting to bepaid later by the committee. It took some little argument to convincehim, but he had good nerve, and by half-past twelve he brought forth275, 000 francs in bank-notes and handed them over to me for a receipt. Sticking this into my pocket, I made ready to get under way, but therewas nothing for it but that I must lunch with them all. Finally Iaccepted, on the understanding that it would be short and that I couldget away immediately afterward. That was not definite enough, however, for we sat at table until four o'clock and then listened to somespeeches. 

When we got down the home stretch, the Governor arose and made a veryneat little speech, thanking us for what we had done to get food to thepeople of Liège, and expressing gratitude to the American Government andpeople, etc. I responded in remarks of almost record shortness, and assoon as possible afterward, we got away through the rain to Brussels. 

After getting through that elaborate luncheon, getting our things readyat the hotel, paying our bill, saying good-bye all around once more, etc. , it was nearly five o'clock when we got off and nearly eight whenwe reached Brussels and put our treasure in the safe. 

The Germans have begun arresting British civilians and we have had ourhands full dealing with poor people who don't want to be arrested andkept in prison until the end of the war and can't quite understand why_they_ have to put up with it. It is pretty tough, but just another ofthe hardships of the war, and while we are doing our best to have thetreatment of these people made as lenient as possible, we can't savethem. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, November 16, 1914. _--Some more excitement yesterday morning, when various British subjects were arrested. 

Two German civilians tried to force their way into the British Consulateand arrest Mr. Jeffes, the British Consul, and his son, although theAmerican flag was flying over the door and there was a sign posted tothe effect that the place was under our protection and all businessshould be transacted with us. Fortunately Nasmith was there, and aftertrying to explain the matter politely, he made for the two men, threwthem into the street, and bolted the door. The gum-shoe men were sosurprised that they went away and have not been back. Last night I wascalled around to the Consulate and found two more men shadowing theplace. There seemed to be no danger of arrest, but Nasmith spent thenight there, and this morning I went around and took the Jeffes to ourConsulate, so that if any attempt was made to take them, we should havean opportunity to protest. The higher authorities had promised not toseize them, but apparently you can never tell. 

Yesterday was the King's Saint's Day, and word was passed around thatthere would be a special mass at Ste. Gudule. Just before it was tobegin, the military authorities sent around and forbade the service. TheGrand Marshal of the Court opened the King's book at his house, so thatwe could all go around and sign, as in ordinary times, for we areaccredited to the King of the Belgians, but early in the morning anofficer arrived and confiscated the book. The Government of Occupationseems to be mighty busy doing pin-head things for people who have a waron their hands. 

Countess de Buisseret's little boy was playing on the street yesterdaywhen the German troops passed by. Being a frightful and dangerouscriminal, he imitated their goose-step and was arrested. M. De Levalwent around to headquarters to see what could be done, supposing, ofcourse, that when it was seen what a child he was, his release would beordered. Instead, he was told seriously that the youngster must bepunished and would be left in jail for some days. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, November 18, 1914. _--This is another day of disgust. Thismorning one of the servants of the Golf Club came in to say that therewere fifty German soldiers looting the place. In the afternoon Jack andI went out for a look at the place and to get my clubs. We found a lotof soldiers under command of a corporal. They had cleaned the place outof food, wine, linen, silver, and goodness knows what else. Florimont, the steward, had been arrested because he would not tell them which ofthe English members of the club had gone away and where the others werestaying. Having spent his time at the club, the fact was that he did notknow who was still in town and could not tell, but the Germans could notbe convinced of this and have made him prisoner. 

I stopped at headquarters this afternoon to see von der Lancken. As Icame out a fine Rolls-Royce limousine drew up on the opposite side ofthe street--a military car. The chauffeur, in backing out, caught andtore the sleeve of his coat. In a rage, he slammed the door and planteda tremendous kick in the middle of the panel with his heavy boot. Istood agape and watched. He looked up, caught me looking at him, andturned his anger from the motor to me. He put his hands on his hips, shot out his jaw and glared at me. Then he began walking toward meacross the street in heavy-villain steps, glaring all the time. Hestopped just in front of me, his face twitching with rage, evidentlyready to do something cataclysmic. Then the heavens opened, and atremendous roar came from across the street. The officer to whom the carbelonged had seen the display of temper from his window, and had run outto express his views. The soldier did a Genée toe-spin and stood atattention, while his superior cursed him in the most stupendous way. Iwas glad to be saved and to have such a display of fireworks into thebargain. 

 * * * * *

_November 19th. _--One day is like another in its cussedness. 

The Germans have been hounding the British Legation and Consulate, andwe have had to get excited about it. Then they announced to the DutchChargé that our courier could no longer go--that everything would haveto be sent by German field post. You would think that after the amountof hard work we have done for the protection of German interests and thescrupulous way in which we have used any privileges we have beenaccorded, they would exert themselves to make our task as easy aspossible and show us some confidence. On the contrary, they treat us aswe would be ashamed to treat our enemies. 

This morning it was snowing beautifully when I woke up, a light, drysnow that lay on the ground. It has been coming down gently all day andthe town is a lovely sight, but I can't get out of my mind the thoughtof those poor beggars out in the trenches. It seems wicked to becomfortable before a good fire with those millions of men suffering asthey are out at the front. 

And now Grant-Watson[9] has been put in prison. He stayed on here afterthe Minister left, to attend to various matters, and was here when theGermans arrived. Recently we have been trying to arrange for passports, so that he and Felix Jeffes, the Vice-Consul, might return to England. The authorities were seemingly unable to make up their minds as to whatshould be done, but assured the Minister that both men would be allowedto return to England or to remain quietly in Brussels. On Friday, however, the Germans changed their minds and did not let a little thinglike their word of honour stand in the way. 

[Footnote 9: Second Secretary of the British Legation in Brussels. ]

The Minister was asked to bring Grant-Watson to headquarters to talkthings over--nothing more. When they got there, it was smilinglyannounced that Grant-Watson was to leave for Berlin on the seven o'clocktrain, which put us in the position of having lured him to prison. TheMinister protested vigorously, and finally Grant-Watson was put onparole and allowed to return to the Legation, to remain there untileleven o'clock yesterday morning. I went over the first thing in themorning to help him get ready for his stay in jail. At eleven Conradarrived in a motor with Monsieur de Leval. We went out and got in, anddrove in state to the École Militaire, and, although I was boiling withrage at the entire performance, I could not help seeing some fun in it. 

Grant-Watson's butler was ordered to be ready to go at the same time. Atthe last minute the butler came down and said perfectly seriously thathe would not be able to go until afternoon, as he had broken the key tohis portmanteau and would have to have another made. The Germans did notsee anything funny in that, and left him behind. 

When we got to the École Militaire, we were refused admittance, and hadto wrangle with the sentries at the door. After arguing with severalofficers and pleading that we had a man with us who wanted to be put inprison, we were reluctantly admitted to the outer gate of the building, where British subjects are kept. When the keeper of the dungeon cameout, I explained to him that the butler had been detained, but would bealong in the course of the afternoon, whereupon the solemn jailerearnestly replied, "Please tell him that he must be here not later thanthree o'clock, or he can't get in!" And nobody cracked a smile until Ilet my feelings get the better of me. 

I was prepared for an affecting parting with Grant-Watson in consigninghim to the depths of a German jail, but he took it as calmly as thoughhe were going into a country house for a week-end party. I suppose thereis some chance that they may exchange him for a few wounded Germanofficers and thus get him back to England. 

Since our snow-storm the other day, the weather has turned terribly coldand we have suffered even with all the comforts that we have. And thecheerful weather prophets are telling us that without doubt this will beone of the coldest winters ever known. A pleasant prospect for the boysat the front! Mrs. Whitlock and everybody else is busy getting warmclothing for the poor and for the refugees from all parts of Belgium whowere unable to save anything from their ruined homes. It is bad enoughnow, but what is coming. .. . 

Gustave has just come in with the cheering news that Ashley, our crackstenographer, has been arrested by the Germans. They are makingthemselves altogether charming and agreeable to us. 

Max is spread out before the fire, snoring like a sawmill--the onlyEnglishman in Brussels who is easy in his mind and need not worry. 

 * * * * *

_Tuesday, November 24th. _--Another day of rush without getting very far. 

The Germans decided this morning that they would arrest Felix Jeffes, the British Vice-Consul, so I had the pleasant task of telling him thathe was wanted. I am to go for him to-morrow morning and take him to theÉcole Militaire with his compatriots. This job of policeman does notappeal to me, even if it is solely to save our friends the humiliationof being taken through the streets by the Germans. 

 * * * * *

_November 25th. _--Had a _pleasant_ day. 

Had arrangements made with Jeffes to go with him to the École Militaireat 11 o'clock and turn him over to his jailer. The Minister went up withvon der Lancken to see the Englishmen and be there when Jeffes arrived, so as to show a friendly interest in his being well treated. 

I went around to the Consulate on time, and found that, through amisunderstanding, Jeffes had made no preparations for going, having beenassured that another attempt would be made to get him off. I pointed outthat the Minister had given his word of honour that Jeffes should bethere, and that he would be left in a very unpleasant and annoyingposition if we did not turn up as promised. Jeffes was perfectly ready, although not willing to go. I went to the École Militaire and explainedto von der Lancken that Jeffes' failure to appear was due to a mistake, and asked that he be given time to straighten out his accounts and comelater in the day or to-morrow morning. The answer was that he must comesome time during the day. The Consul-General went straight to vonLüttwitz with Jeffes, made a great plea on the score of his health orlack of it, and got his time extended until he could be given a medicalexamination by the military authorities. Late in the afternoon he waslooked over and told to go home and be quiet, that he would probably notbe wanted, but that if anything came up, they would communicate with himfurther. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, November 27, 1914. _--More busy days. Each day we swear thatwe will stop work early and go out to play. Each day we sit at ourdesks, and darkness comes down upon us, and we do not get away untilnearly eight o'clock. "Thanksgiving Day" was no exception, and to-day weare going through the same old performance. Yesterday, by strenuouswork, I got down to swept bunkers and had a good prospect of an easyday. Instead of that there has been a deluge of Consuls, mail, telegrams, and excited callers, and we are snowed under a heap of workit will take several days to get out of the way. 

We came back to them with a bump, however, when Nasmith came to my flatat midnight to say that Jeffes had been arrested. And it was done in theusual charming manner. In the course of the afternoon, theConsul-General got a note asking him to go to headquarters "to talk overthe case of Mr. Jeffes. " It asked also that Jeffes accompany theConsul-General "to the conference. " When they arrived it was announcedthat Jeffes was under arrest and to be sent immediately to the ÉcoleMilitaire. The Consul-General, like the Minister, on the occasion of hisvisit, was placed in the position of having lured his friend into jail. He protested vigorously, but was not even allowed to accompany Jeffes tothe École Militaire. It was only after some heated argument that Jeffeswas allowed five minutes at home, under guard, to get a few belongingstogether to take with him. The Consul-General is furious, and so am Iwhen I remember how decently the German Vice-Consul here was treatedwhen the war broke out. 

Early in the week Jack is to be sent down to Mons, to bring out someEnglish nurses who have been there nursing the British wounded. Two ofthem, Miss Hozier and Miss Angela Manners, were in yesterday. They havebeen working hard during the past three months and are now ready to goback to England if we can arrange for passports. 

Under the date of November 26th, General von Kraewel announces that hehas succeeded Baron von Lüttwitz, who has been transferred to the armyat the front. 

Hoover arrived from London this afternoon accompanied by Shaler and byDr. Rose, Henry James, Jr. , and Mr. Bicknell of the RockefellerFoundation, who have come to look into conditions. There is plenty forthem to see, and we shall do our best to help them see it. 

As we learned from a confidential source, several days ago, there hasbeen a big shake-up in the Government here. Both von der Goltz and vonLüttwitz have gone and have been replaced--the first by Freiherr vonBissing, and the latter by General von Kraewel. There are severalexplanations for the changes, but we don't yet know what they mean. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, December 2, 1914. _--We have had a hectic time. Hoover arrivedon Sunday evening, accompanied by Shaler and by three representatives ofthe Rockefeller Foundation. We have had a steady rush of meetings, conferences, etc. , and Hoover and Shaler pulled out early this morning. There is not much relief in sight, however, for to-morrow morning at thecrack of dawn, I expect to start off on a tour of Belgium, to show theRockefeller people what conditions really are. We shall be gone forseveral days and shall cover pretty well the whole country. 

Yesterday morning I got Jack off to Mons to bring back the Britishnurses. Everything in the way of passports and arrangements with themilitary authorities had been made, and he went away in high spirits fora little jaunt by himself. This morning at half-past three o'clock herang the doorbell and came bristling in, the maddest man I have seen ina long time. He had suffered everything that could be thought of in theway of insult and indignity, and to make it worse, had been obliged tostand by and watch some brutes insult the girls he was sent down toprotect. When he arrived at Mons he got the nurses together and tookthem to the headquarters, where he explained that he had been sent downby the Minister with the consent of the German authorities, to bring thenurses to Brussels. This was stated in writing on the passport given himby the German authorities here. Instead of the polite reception he hadexpected, the German officer, acting for the Commandant, turned on himand told him that the nurses were to be arrested, and could not go toBrussels. Then, by way of afterthought, he decided to arrest Jack andhad him placed under guard on a long bench in the headquarters, where hewas kept for three hours. Luckily, an old gentleman of the town who knewthe nurses, came in on some errand, and before they could be shut up, they contrived to tell him what the situation was and ask him to getword to the Legation. Right away after this the three women were takenout and put in the fourth-class cells of the military prison, that is, in the same rooms with common criminals. Jack was left in the guardroom. The old gentleman, who had come in, rushed off to the Burgomasterand got him stirred up about the case, although he was loath to doanything, as he _knew_ that a representative of the American Legationcould not be arrested. Finally he did come around to headquarters, andafter a long row with the Adjutant, they got Jack released and fittedout with a _laisser-passer_ to return to Brussels. He was insulted ingood shape, and told that if he came back again, sent by the Minister orby anybody else, he would be chucked into jail and stay there. Beforethe nurses were taken down to their prison, the Adjutant shook his fistin Miss Hozier's face, and told her that they were going to give her agood lesson, so that the English should have a taste of the sort oftreatment they were meting out to German nurses and doctors that fellinto their hands. 

The Mayor and Aldermen took Jack in charge when he was released, andkept him in one of their homes until time for the train to leave forBrussels at midnight. They were convinced that he would be arrestedagain at the station, but he did get off in a car filled with sicksoldiers and arrived here without mishap at three o'clock or a littleafter. 

I went over to see von der Lancken the first thing in the morning, andtold him the whole story, in order that he might be thinking over whathe was going to do about it before the Minister went over to see him ateleven. The Minister said his say in plain language, and got a promisethat steps would be taken at once to get the girls out of prison andhave them brought to Brussels. Later in the day von der Lancken camethrough with the information that the action of the authorities at Monswas "_due to a misunderstanding_, " and that everything was lovely now. We suppose that the girls will be here to-morrow; if not, inquiries willbe made and the Minister will probably go down himself. 

Yesterday morning we spent visiting soup kitchens, milk stations, andthe distributing centres for supplying old clothes to the poor. Thewhole thing is under one organisation and most wonderfully handled. Itis probably the biggest thing of the sort that has ever been undertakenand is being done magnificently. 

It is a curious thing to watch the Commission grow. It started asnothing but a group of American mining engineers, with the sympatheticaid of some of our diplomatic representatives and the good-will of theneutral world. It is rapidly growing into a powerful internationalentity, negotiating agreements with the Great Powers of Europe, enjoyingrights that no Government enjoys, and as the warring governments come tounderstand its sincerity and honesty, gaining influence and authorityday by day. 

There is no explanation of the departure of von der Goltz. His successorhas come out with a proclamation in three lines, as follows:

 His Majesty, the Emperor and King, having deigned to appoint me Governor-General in Belgium, I have to-day assumed the direction of affairs. 

 BARON VON BISSING. Brussels, December 3, 1914. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, Sunday, December 6, 1914. _--We got away at eight o'clock onThursday morning, in three cars from the Palace Hotel. We were four carswhen we started, but fifty feet from the door the leading car broke downand could not be started, so we rearranged ourselves and left the wreckbehind. The party was composed of the three Rockefellerrepresentatives, Dr. Rose, Mr. Bicknell, and Henry James, Jr. , MonsieurFrancqui, Josse Allard, Jack and I. 

It was rainy and cold, but we made good time to Louvain and stopped atthe Hôtel de Ville. Professor Neerincxs, of the University, took up theduties of Burgomaster when the Germans shipped the real one away. Hespeaks perfect English, and led the crowd around the town with the rushand energy of a Cook's tourist agent. He took us first through theCathedral, and showed us in detail things that we could not have seen ifwe had gone at it alone. Then around to the library and some of theother sights of particular interest, and finally for a spin through thecity, to see the damage to the residence district. This was a mostinteresting beginning, and made a good deal of an impression on ourpeople. They asked questions about the work being done by the peopletoward cleaning up the ruins of the town and trying to arrangemake-shift shelters to live in during the winter. The Mayor is a man ofreal force of character, and has accomplished marvels under the greatestdifficulties. 

From Louvain we cut away to the northeast to Aerschot, where we took aquick look at the welter of ruin and struck out to the west throughDiest and Haelen, which I saw on my first trip with Frederick Palmerbefore there was anything done to them. 

We got to Liège about one o'clock and had lunch in a restaurantdowntown, where we were joined by Jackson, our delegate sent down thereto supervise the distribution of food for the Commission. He told us alot about the difficulties and incidents of his work, and some detailsof which we had to think. He is the first delegate we have sent tooutlying cities, and is up on his toes with interest. A lot more havealready sailed from New York, and will soon be here. They are to bespread all over the country in the principal centres, some to stay inthe big cities and watch local conditions, and others to travel abouttheir districts and keep track of the needs of the different villages. It is all working out a lot better than we had hoped for, and we havegood reason to be pleased. Our chief annoyance is that every time thingsget into a comfortable state, some idiot starts the story either inEngland or America that the Germans have begun to seize foodstuffsconsigned to us. Then we have to issue statements and get off telegrams, and get renewed assurances from the German authorities and makeourselves a general nuisance to everybody concerned. If we can choke offsuch idiots, our work will be a lot easier. 

The Burgomaster came into the restaurant to find us, and offered to goon with us to Visé, to show us the town, and we were glad to have him, as he knows the place like the palm of his hand. 

I had been through Visé twice, and had marvelled at the completeness ofthe destruction, but had really had no idea of what it was. It was atown of about forty-five hundred souls, built on the side of a prettyhill overlooking the Meuse. There are only two or three houses left. Wesaw one old man, two children and a cat in the place. Where the othersare, nobody knows. The old man was well over sixty, and had thatafternoon been put off a train from Germany, where he had been as aprisoner of war since the middle of August. He had KRIEGSGEFANGENERMUNSTER stencilled on his coat, front and back, so that there could beno doubt as to who he was. He was standing in the street with the tearsrolling down his cheeks and did not know where to go; he had spent theday wandering about the neighbouring villages trying to find news of hiswife, and had just learned that she had died a month or more ago. It wasgetting dark, and to see this poor old chap standing in the midst ofthis welter of ruin without a chick or child or place to lay hishead. .. . It caught our companions hard, and they loaded the old man upwith bank-notes, which was about all that anybody could do for him andthen we went our way. We wandered through street after street of ruinedhouses, sometimes whole blocks together where there were not enoughwalls left to make even temporary shelters. 

Near the station we were shown a shallow grave dug just in front of ahouse. We were told who filled the grave--an old chap of over sixty. Hehad been made to dig his own grave, and then was tied to a young treeand shot. The bullets cut the tree in two just a little above the heightof his waist, and the low wall behind was full of bullet holes. 

As nearly as we can learn, the Germans appear to have come through thetown on their way toward Liège. Nothing was supposed to have happenedthen, but on the 15th, 16th and 17th, troops came back from Liège andsystematically reduced the place to ruins and dispersed the population. It was clear that the fires were all set, and there were no evidence ofstreet fighting. It is said that some two hundred civilians were shot, and seven hundred men bundled aboard trains and sent back to Germany asprisoners of war--harmless people like the old chap we saw. 

[Illustration: Von Bulow's greeting to the people of Liège

 ORDRE A LA POPULATION LIÈGEOISE

 La population d'Andenne, après avoir témoigné des intentions pacifiques à légard de nos troupes, les a attaquées de la façon la plus traîtresse. Avec mon autorisation, le général qui commandait ces troupes a mis la ville en cendres et a fait fusiller 110 personnes. 

 Je porte ce fait à la connaissance de la Villé de Liège pour que ses habitants sachent à quel sort ils peuvent s'attandre s'ils prennent une attitude semblable. 

 Liège, le 22 Août 1914

 Général von BULOW. 

Translation:

 ORDER TO THE POPULATION OF LIÈGE

 The population of Andenne, after manifesting peaceful intentions toward our troops, attacked them in the most treacherous manner. With my authorization the general who commanded these troops has reduced the town to ashes and has shot 110 persons. 

 I bring this fact to the knowledge of the City of Liège so that its people may understand the fate which awaits them if they assume a like attitude. ]

[Illustration: How the simple pleasures of the German soldier wererestricted. 

 DIESES HAUS IST ZU SCHÜTZEN

 Es ist streng verboten, ohne Genehmigung der Kommandantur, Haüser zu betreden oder in Brand zu setzen. 

 Die Etappen-Kommandantur. 

Translation:

 THIS HOUSE IS TO BE PROTECTED

 It is strictly forbidden to enter houses or set them on fire without the permission of the Kommandantur]

The Burgomaster set out on foot to walk back three kilometers and catcha tram to Liège, and we went southeast to Dalhem, where we spent thenight at the Château de Dalhem, on a hill overlooking the picturesquelittle village snuggled in the bottom of the valley. It was off the mainline of march, and had not suffered. The château belongs to GeneralThyss, who was a great friend of the late King Leopold. He was notthere, but the place was being protected by a splendid old dragon in theshape of a German governess who had been with the family for over thirtyyears, and refused to leave when the war broke out. She had been obligedto lodge a crowd of German officers and some of their men, but held themdown with an iron hand, kept them from doing any damage and made thempay for every egg and every bottle of wine they had. We arrived afterdark and threw the place into a panic of fear, but Monsieur Francquisoon reassured everybody, and the place was lighted up and placed at ourdisposal in short order. 

Although it was pitch dark when we arrived, it was only half past fourand we set out on foot to stretch a little. The moon came out andlighted our way through the country roads. We tramped for a couple ofhours through all sorts of little towns and villages and groups ofhouses, some of them wiped out and some hardly touched. 

General Thyss's cellars are famous, and with our dinner of soup andbacon and eggs, we had some of the finest Burgundy I have ever tasted. Early to bed so that we could be up and off at daybreak. 

Friday morning we were away early, and made for Herve, where I had neverbeen before. It is a ruin with a few natives and a lot of Landsturmleft. We talked to some peasants and to an old priest who gave ussomething to think about in their stories of happenings there during andafter the occupation of their homes. From there to Liège, by way of alot of little villages whose names I don't remember, but whose conditionwas pretty bad, past the fort of Fléron and the defensive works that arebeing put up there. 

Wasted some time trying to get gasoline for the other motors, and thenthe long stretch to Namur, down the valley of the Meuse, and stoppedlong enough for a look at Andennes, my second visit to the place. 

In Andenne and Seilles (a little village across the Meuse) the Germansdid a thorough job. They killed about three hundred people and burnedabout the same number of houses. Most of the houses had been lootedsystematically. According to the stories of those inhabitants whoremain, there was a reign of terror for about a week, during which theGermans rendered themselves guilty of every sort of atrocity andbarbarity. They are all most positive that there was no firing upon theGerman troops by the civil population. It seems to be generally believedthat the massacre was due to resistance of retiring Belgian troops andthe destruction of bridges and tunnels to cover their retreat. Whateverthe provocation, the behaviour of the Germans was that of savages. Wewere shown photographs showing the corpses of some of those killed. Itwas to be inferred that they had been wantonly mutilated. 

Had lunch at an hotel across the street from the station. After a hastylunch we made off to Dinant, still following the Meuse. The thin line ofhouses down the course of the river were thinner than they were a fewmonths ago, and there were signs of suffering and distress everywhere. Ihad never been to Dinant before, but had seen pictures of it and thoughtI had an idea of what we were going to see. But the pictures did notgive a hint of the horror of the place. The little town, which must havebeen a gem, nestled at the foot of a huge gray cliff, crowned with theobsolete fort, which was not used or attacked. The town is _gone_. Partof the church is standing, and the walls of a number of buildings, butfor the most part, there is nothing but a mess of scattered bricks toshow where the houses had stood. And why it was done, we were not ableto learn, for everybody there says that there was no fighting in thetown itself. We heard stories, too, and such stories that they canhardly be put on paper. Our three guests were more and more impressed aswe went on. The bridge was blown up and had fallen into the river, andas we had little time to make the rest of our day's journey, we did notwait to cross by the emergency bridge farther up the river. While wewere standing talking to a schoolmaster and his father by the destroyedbridge, seven big huskies with rifles and fixed bayonets came through, leading an old man and a woman who had been found with a camera intheir possession. At first there was no objection raised to the takingof photographs, but now our friends are getting a little touchy aboutit, and lock up anybody silly enough to get caught with kodaks orcameras. 

According to what we were told, the Germans entered the town from thedirection of Ciney, on the evening of August 21st, and began firing intothe windows of the houses. The Germans admit this, but say that therewere French troops in the town and this was the only way they could getthem out. A few people were killed, but there was nothing that eveningin the nature of a general massacre. Although the next day wascomparatively quiet, a good part of the population took refuge in thesurrounding hills. 

On Sunday morning, the 23rd, the German troops set out to pillage andshoot. They drove the people into the street, and set fire to theirhouses. Those who tried to run away were shot down in their tracks. Thecongregation was taken from the church, and fifty of the men were shot. All the civilians who could be rounded up were driven into the bigsquare and kept there until evening. About six o'clock the women werelined up on one side of the square and kept in line by soldiers. On theother side, the men were lined up along a wall, in two rows, the firstkneeling. Then, under command of an officer, two volleys were fired intothem. The dead and wounded were left together until the Germans gotround to burying them, when practically all were dead. This was only oneof several wholesale executions. The Germans do not seem to contradictthe essential facts, but merely put forward the plea that most of thedamage was incidental to the fighting which took place between the armedforces. Altogether more than eight hundred people were killed. Sixhundred and twelve have been identified and given burial. Others werenot recognisable. I have one of the lists which are still to be had, although the Germans have ordered all copies returned to them. Thosekilled ranged in age from Félix Fivet, aged three weeks, to an old womannamed Jadot, who was eighty. But then Félix probably fired on the Germantroops. 

[Illustration:

 AUX HABITANTS DE LA BELGIQUE

 Le Maréchal Von der Goltz fait connaître aux Populations de Belgique qu'il est informé par les Généraux Commandants les troupes d'occupation sur le territoire français, que le choléra sévit avec intensité dans les troupes alliées, et qu'il y a le plus grand danger à franchir ces lignes, ou à pénétrer dans le territoire ennemi

 Nous invitons les Populations de Belgique à ne pas entreìndre cet avis, et ceux qui croiraient ne pas devoir se soumettre à cet avis, seront traduits devant les Officiers de la Justice Impériale, et nous les prévenons que la peine peut-être celle de mort. 

 Maréchal Von der Goltz Septembre 1914

Translation:

 Field-Marshal von der Goltz announces to the Belgian population that he is informed by the Generals commanding the troops occupying French territory that cholera is raging fiercely among the allied troops and that there is the greatest danger in crossing the lines or entering enemy territory. 

 We call upon the Belgian population not to infringe this notice. Those who do not comply with this notice will be brought before the Imperial Officers of Justice and we warn them that the penalty of death may be inflicted upon them. ]

There is no end to the stories of individual atrocities. One is thatMonsieur Wasseige, director of one of the banks, was seized by theGermans, who demanded that he should open the safes. He flatly refusedto do this, even under threat of death. Finally he was led with his twoeldest sons to the Place d'Armes and placed with more than one hundredothers, who were then killed with machine guns. Monsieur Wasseige'sthree youngest children were brought to the spot by German soldiers, andcompelled to witness the murder of their father and two brothers. 

From Dinant we struck across country through Phillipeville and somelittle by-roads to Rance, where we were expected at the house of G. D----. He and his wife and their little girl of five had just returnedthat morning to receive us, but the place was brightly lighted and ascompletely prepared as though they had been there all the time. It was alovely old place, and we were soon made comfortable. German officershave occupied it most of the time, and it required a good deal ofcleaning and repairing after they left, but fortunately this work hadjust been completed, and we had a chance to enjoy the place before anymore enforced guests appeared. One of the Imperial princelings had beenthere for one night, and his name was chalked on the door of his room. He had been _très aimable_, and when he left had taken D----'s motorwith him. 

We took a tramp around the town in a biting wind, and looked at some ofthe houses of our neighbours. Some of them were almost wrecked afterhaving served as quarters for troops for varying periods. From othersall the furniture had been taken away and shipped back to Germany. Oneman showed us a card which he had found in the frame of one of his bestpictures. It was the card of a German officer, and under the name waswritten an order to send the picture to a certain address in Berlin. Thepicture was gone, but the frame and card were still there and are beingkept against the day of reckoning--if any. We were shown several littlesafes which had been pried open and looted, and were told the usual setof stories of what had happened when the army went through. Some of thethings would be hard to believe if one did not hear them from the lipsof people who are reliable and who live in such widely separated partsof the country at a time when communications are almost impossible. 

We had a good and ingeniously arranged dinner. All sorts of ordinaryfoods are not to be had in this part of the country, and our hostesshad, by able thinking, arranged a meal which skillfully concealed thethings that were lacking. Among other things, I observed that we had aseries of most delicious wines--for our host of that evening also had awonderful cellar. They had told us just before dinner that the Germanshad taken an inventory of their wines and had forbidden them to touchanother drop, so I wondered whether they were not incurring some risk inorder to give us the wine that they considered indispensable. When Iasked our hostess, she told me that it was very simple, that all theyneeded to do was to drink a part of several bottles, refill thempartially with water, seal them, and put them back in the cellars; shesaid scornfully that "_les Boches_ don't know one wine from another, "and had not yet been able to detect the fraud. They had a lot of cheapchampagne in the cellar and had been filling them up with that, as theyprefer any champagne to the best vintage Burgundies. Once in a whilethere is a little satisfaction reserved for a Belgian. 

We were called at daybreak and were on the road at eight o'clock, takingin a series of small villages which had been destroyed, and talking withthe few people to be found about the place. This part of Belgium is farworse than the northern part, where the people can get away withcomparative ease to one of the larger towns and come back now and thento look after their crops. Here one village after another is wiped out, and the peasants have no place to go unless they travel so far thatthere is no hope of returning, perhaps for months together. It will be agreat problem to provide shelter for these people so that they canreturn. 

We cut through Beaumont, and then took the main road to Mons, where wearrived in the middle of the morning. On the way we had heard that theEnglish nurses had not yet been released, so I made for the militaryheadquarters and saw the commandant. It was evident that they had beenhauled over the coals for the way they had behaved when Jack was there, for I never saw such politeness in any headquarters. I was preceded bybowing and unctuous soldiers and non-commissioned officers, all the wayfrom the door to the Presence, and was received by the old man standing. He was most solicitous for my comfort and offered me everything but thefreedom of the city. He said that he had not received a word ofinstructions until a few minutes before my arrival, but that he was nowable to give the young ladies their liberty and turn them over to me. Inorder to get them, I was prayed to go over to the headquarters of themilitary governor of the Province, and an officer was assigned toaccompany me. While we were there, the officer who had been so insultingto Jack and to Miss Hozier came into the room, took one look at us, andscuttled for safety. We heard afterward that he had been ordered toapologise for his behaviour. 

At the door of the Provincial headquarters I found another car flyingthe Legation flag, and Monsieur de Leval came charging out into my arms. There had been a pretty hot time about the nurses and he had finallybeen sent down to get them out. In a few minutes we had them sitting ona bench in the Governor's office, while Kracker, who used to be one ofthe Secretaries of the German Legation here, was making out their_laisser-passers_ to come to Brussels. They were a happy crowd, butpretty well done up by the treatment they had had. 

When they were all fixed I went in and asked for the release of MissBradford, another English nurse, who had been in prison in Mons andCharleroi for the past five weeks. I learned of her imprisonment almostby accident while we were waiting for the passports. After some argumentit was granted, and I went with a soldier to the prison to get her out. I had not expected to find anything very luxurious, but I was shockedwhen I saw the place. It was the most severe, repressive penitentiary inthe country--still filled with common criminals--and the English nursewas given the same treatment and rations as the worst murderer of thelot. There was the usual row with the man in charge of the place, andfinally a soldier was despatched, to tell the young woman she could getready to go. While she was getting ready, the director of the prisontook me around and showed me with great pride things that made meshiver. He said, however, that it was an outrage to put a woman in sucha place. The prisoners who do the work of the prison were going aboutthe corridors under guard, each one wearing a dirty brown mask coveringhis entire head, and with only the smallest of slits for his eyes. Theyare never allowed to see each other's faces or to speak to one another. I was taken up to the chapel, where each man is herded into a little boxlike a confessional and locked in so that he cannot see his neighbour, and can only look up toward the raised altar in the centre, where he cansee the priest. The school was arranged in the same way, and was shownwith equal pride. I fear the jailer thought me lacking in appreciation. 

I finally got the young woman out, nearly hysterical, and took her up tothe headquarters, and from there to the hotel, where Monsieur de Levalhad gathered his charges for luncheon. They were rapidly recoveringtheir old-time spirits, and were chattering away like a lot of magpies. 

While I was fussing about with them, I had sent my friends andfellow-travellers ahead, and now left the flock of nurses in the handsof Monsieur de Leval, to be conveyed by tram back to Brussels, while Itried to catch up with my party at the château of Monsieur Warroqué, atMariemont. I made as much speed as my little car was capable of, but itwas nearly two o'clock when I arrived. 

The old château of Mariemont is one of those built by Louis XIV, when heset out to have one for each month of the year. This was his place forAugust. It had been destroyed, and the new one is built near the ruins, but the large park is as it has been for a long time, and a lovely placeit is. There were about twenty at table when we arrived, and places wereready for us. More fine wines, and this time to show that we were in thehouse of a connoisseur, the flunky, in pouring out the precious stuff, would whisper in your ear the name and vintage. Warroqué owns a lot ofthe coal mines and other properties and is apparently greatly loved bythe people. When the Germans came, they seized him as a hostage, but thepeople became so threatening that he was released. How many men in hisposition could have counted on that much devotion?

Immediately after luncheon we shoved off and made through the rain forCharleroi, where we took a look at the damage done to the town. It wasalready dark and we then turned toward Brussels and burned up the road, getting to the Legation at half-past six, to find all the nurses sittingup, having tea with Mrs. Whitlock and the Minister. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, December 10, 1914_--Yesterday afternoon we received the callof General Freiherr von Bissing, Governor General in Belgium, and ofGeneral Freiherr von Kraewel, Military Governor of Brussels. They wereaccompanied by their suites in full regalia. The military men were mostaffable, but we did not get any farther than tea and cigarettes. Theytalked mournfully of the war and said they wished to goodness the wholething was over. It was a great contrast to the cock-sure talk at thebeginning of the war. Von Bissing said that there were hospitals inevery village in Germany and that they were all filled with wounded. Itis becoming clearer every day that the Germans, as well as others, aregetting thoroughly sick and tired of the whole business and would give alot to end it. 

A little while ago the _London Times_ cost as high as two hundredfrancs. It has been going down steadily, until it can be had now forfour francs and sometimes for as little as two. The penalties are verysevere, but the supply keeps up, although the blockade runners are beingpicked up every day. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, December 11, 1914_. --This afternoon late B---- brought anuncle to see me, to talk about conditions in France between the Belgianfrontier and the German lines. Those poor people cannot, of course, getanything from the heart of France, and as the Belgian frontier is closedtight by the Germans, they are already starving. It looks very much asthough we should have to extend the scope of our work, so as to lookafter them, too. We hear very little news from that part of the country, but from what we do hear, conditions must be frightful. In one littletown Mr. K---- came through, only twenty out of five hundred houses aresaid to be standing. He says that the people are not permitted to leavethe place and are living in the cellars and ruins in great misery andpractically without food. 

Out of a clear sky comes a new trouble for the country. The GermanGovernment has come down with a demand for money on a scale that leavesthem speechless. The Belgians are ordered to make a forced payment eachmonth of forty millions of francs, for twelve months. The two firstpayments are to be made by the 15th of next month, and the subsequentinstallments on the 10th of succeeding months. It is a staggering total, but the German authorities are deaf to appeals, and the Provinces willhave to get together and raise the money in some way. 

[Publisher's note: An entry from a later part of Mr. Gibson's journalgives a picture of the Belgian spirit under German rule and one of thefew methods of retaliation they had against German oppression. 

 The Belgians are getting a good deal of quiet pleasure these days from a clandestine newspaper called _La Libre Belgique_ which is published almost in the shadow of the Kommandantur. It is a little four-page paper that is published "every now and then" and says anything it likes about the "Occupant. " It also publishes news and texts that are barred from the censored press. It is distributed in a mysterious way that still has the Germans guessing, although they have detailed their cleverest sleuths to the task of hunting down the paper and those responsible for its publication. Every number is delivered to all the more important German officials in Brussels and, more remarkable still, it appears without fail upon the desk of the Governor-General--in that sanctum guarded like the vaults of the Bank of England. Sometimes it appears in the letter-box in the guise of a letter from Germany; sometimes it is thrown in the window; sometimes it is delivered by an orderly with a bundle of official despatches; sometimes it merely appears from nowhere. But it never fails to reach the Governor-General. He never fails to read it and to wax wroth over its contents. Large rewards have been offered for information about the people who are writing and printing the paper. The Germans rage publicly, which only adds to the pleasure that the Belgians get from their little enterprise. 

 My copy reaches me regularly and always in some weird way as in the case of the Germans. I don't know who my friend is that sends me the paper. Whoever he is I am much obliged. ]

 * * * * *

_Brussels, December 14, 1914_--Yesterday afternoon late, after a sessionat C. R. B. [10] headquarters, I dropped in for a cup of tea with BaronneQ----. There was a fine circle of gossip and I learned all the spicystuff. The husband of Mme. De F---- had been in prison for a month, having been pulled out of a motor on his way to the frontier, and foundwith letters on him. He got out on Thursday and they are quite proud ofthemselves. They were having a fine time discussing the predicament ofthe H---- family. The Countess was arrested last week because she, too, was caught carrying letters. She was released from prison and allowed toreturn home. Now the Germans have placed sentries before the house andallow no one to enter or leave: The old gentleman is also locked upthere. The servants have been driven out, and are not even permitted tobring meals to their _patrons_, who are dependent on what they are givento eat by the German soldiers. There is no charge against them atpresent, so they have no idea as to how long the present charmingsituation will last. There was a great amount of gossip and the rightamount of tea and cakes, so I had an enjoyable half hour. 

[Footnote 10: Commission for Relief in Belgium. This name was given theoriginal American Relief Committee within a few weeks of itsfoundation. ]

Yesterday morning Grant-Watson was put aboard a train and taken toBerlin, where he is to be guarded as a prisoner of war. It is all mostoutrageous, as Lancken definitely promised that he would not bemolested. Moral: get just as far away from these people as you can, while you can, in the knowledge that if they "change their mind, "promises won't count. 

Jeffes is left here for the present and may be released. We shall try toget him off, but in view of what has already happened, cannot be veryconfident. Jeffes is philosophical and uncomplaining, but naturally isnot very happy. 

 * * * * *

[Illustration: Appeal of the Queen of the Belgians for help fromAmerica

 I have learned with gratification of the noble and effective work being done by American citizens and officials on behalf of my stricken people. I confidently hope that their efforts will receive that ungrudging support which we have learned to expect from the generous womanhood of America. 

 We mothers of Belgium no less than the mothers of America have for generations instilled in our children the instincts and the love of peace. We asked no greater boon than to live in peace and friendship with all the world. We have provoked no war, yet in defense of our hearthstones, our country has been laid waste from end to end. 

 The flow of commerce has ceased and my people are faced with famine. The terrors of starvation with its consequences of disease and violence menace the unoffending civilian population--the aged, the infirm, the women and the children. 

 American officials and citizens in Belgium and England, alive to their country's traditions, have created an organization under the protection of their government and are already sending food to my people. I hope that they may receive the fullest sympathy and aid from every side. 

 I need not say that I and my people shall always hold in grateful remembrance the proven friendship of America in this hour of need. 

 Elisabeth. ]

_Brussels, Sunday, December 20, 1914_--Jack got off to London yesterdayafter a visit of six weeks. Had it not been for the nearness ofChristmas and the knowledge that he was needed at home, he would havebeen prepared to stay on indefinitely. His grief at leaving was genuine. He invested heavily in flowers and chocolates for the people who hadbeen nice to him, endowed all the servants, and left amid the cheers andsobs of the populace. He is a good sort, and I was sorry to see him go. By this time he is probably sitting up in London, telling them all aboutit. 

To-day I went up to Antwerp to bring back our old motor. Left a littlebefore noon, after tidying up my desk, and took my two Spanishcolleagues, San Esteban and Molina, along for company. I had the passesand away we went by way of Malines, arriving in time for a late lunch. 

Antwerp is completely Germanised already. We heard hardly a word ofFrench anywhere--even the hotel waiters speaking only hotel French. Thecrowd in the restaurant of the Webber was exclusively German, and therewas not a word of French on the menu. 

The Germans took over the garage where our car was left the day theycame in, and there I discovered what was left of the old machine. Thesentries on guard at the door reluctantly let us in, and the poorproprietor of the garage led us to the place where our car has stoodsince the fall of Antwerp. The soldiers have removed two of the tires, the lamps, cushions, extra wheels, speedometer, tail lights, tool box, and had smashed most of the other fixings they could not take off. Inview of the fact that my return trip to Brussels at the time of thebombardment was for the purpose of bringing the plans of the city to theGermans, so that they would have knowledge of the location of the publicmonuments and could spare them, it seems rather rough that they shouldrepay us by smashing our motor. I think we shall make some remarks tothem to this effect to-morrow, and intimate that it is up to them tohave the car repaired and returned to us in good shape. 

The first group of Americans to work on the relief came into Belgiumthis month. They are, for the most part, Rhodes Scholars who were atOxford, and responded instantly to Hoover's appeal. They are a pickedcrew, and have gone into the work with enthusiasm. And it takes a lot ofenthusiasm to get through the sort of pioneer work they have to do. Theyhave none of the thrill of the fellows who have gone into the flyingcorps or the ambulance service. They have ahead of them a long winter ofmotoring about the country in all sorts of weather, wrangling withmillers and stevedores, checking cargoes and costs, keeping the peacebetween the Belgians and the German authorities, observing the rules ofthe game toward everybody concerned, and above all, keeping neutral. Itis no small undertaking for a lot of youngsters hardly out of college, but so far they have done splendidly. 

The one I see the most of is Edward Curtis, who sails back and forth toHolland as courier of the Commission. He was at Cambridge when the warbroke out, and after working on Hoover's London Committee to helpstranded Americans get home, he came on over here and fell to. He exudessilence and discretion, but does not miss any fun or any chance toadvance the general cause. Of course it is taking the Germans some timeto learn his system. He is absolutely square with them, and gets acertain amount of fun out of their determined efforts to find some sortof contraband on him. They can hardly conceive of his being honest, andthink his seeming frankness is merely an unusually clever dodge to coverup his transgressions. 

 * * * * *

[Illustration: Julius Van Hee, American Vice-Consul at Ghent]

[Illustration: Lewis Richards]

[Illustration: A Brussels soup-kitchen run by volunteers]

[Illustration: Meals served to the children in the schools]

_Brussels, December 21, 1914_. --Yesterday Brussels awoke from the calmin which it had been plunged for some time, when a couple of Frenchaviators came sailing overhead and dropped six bombs on the railroadyards at Etterbeck. I was away at Antwerp and did not see it, buteverybody else of the population of 700, 000 Bruxellois did, and each oneof them has given me a detailed account of it. The German forces didtheir level best to bring the bird men down with shrapnel, but they wereflying high enough for safety. They seem to have hit their mark and tornup the switches, etc. , in a very satisfactory way. For three or fourdays we have been hearing the big guns again, each day more distinctly;but we don't know what it means. The Germans explain it on the groundthat they are testing guns. 

Mr. And Mrs. Hoover arrived last night, bringing Frederick Palmer withthem. We dined together at the Palace. They were full of news, both warand shop, and I sat and talked with them until after eleven, greatly tothe prejudice of my work. Had to stay up and grind until nearly two. 

Curtis, who came back last night, says that Jack was arrested at Antwerpon his way out, because he had Folkstone labels on his bags. It took himso long to explain away his suspicious belongings that he barely caughtthe last train from Rosendaal to Flushing. He seems to be destined to acertain amount of arrest now and then. 

Hoover turned up at the Legation this morning at a little after nine, and he and the Minister and I talked steadily for three hours and ahalf. 

Despite the roar of work at the Legation, I went off after lunch withMrs. Whitlock and did some Xmas shopping--ordered some flowers andchocolates. Went out and dropped Mrs. Whitlock at Mrs. B----'s, to helpdecorate the tree she is going to have for the English children here. B---- is a prisoner at Ruhleben, and will probably be thereindefinitely, but his wife is a trump. She had a cheery letter from him, saying that he and his companions in misery had organised a theatricaltroupe, and were going soon to produce _The Importance of BeingEarnest_. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, Christmas, 1914_--- This is the weirdest Christmas that everwas--with no one so much as thinking of saying "Merry Christmas. "Everything is so completely overshadowed by the war, that had it notbeen for the children, we should have let it go unnoticed. 

Yesterday evening there was a dinner at the Legation--Bicknell, Rose andJames, the Hoovers and Frederick Palmer. Although there was a bunch ofmistletoe over the table, it did not seem a bit Christmasy, but just anordinary good dinner with much interesting talk. 

Immediately after lunch we climbed into the big car and went out toLewis Richards' Christmas tree. He has a big house at the edge of town, with grounds which were fairy-like in the heavy white frost. He hadundertaken to look after 660 children, and he did it to the Queen'staste. They were brought in by their mothers in bunches of one hundred, and marched around the house, collecting things as they went. In oneroom each youngster was given a complete outfit of warm clothes. Inanother, some sort of a toy which he was allowed to choose. In another, a big bag of cakes and candies, and, finally, they were herded into thebig dining-room, where they were filled with all sorts of Xmas food. There was a big tree in the hall, so that the children, in theirtriumphal progress, merely walked around the tree. Stevens had paintedall the figures and the background of an exquisite _crèche_, with anelectric light behind it, to make the stars shine. The children werespeechless with happiness, and many of the mothers were crying as theycame by. 

Since the question of food for children became acute here, Richards hasbeen supplying rations to the babies in his neighbourhood. The numberhas been steadily increasing, and for some time he has been feeding overtwo hundred youngsters a day. He has been very quiet about it, andhardly anyone has known what he was doing. 

It is cheering to see a man who does so much to comfort others; not somuch because he weighs the responsibility of his position and fortune, but because he has a great-hearted sympathy and instinctively reachesout to help those in distress. Otherwise the day was pretty black, butit did warm the cockles of my heart to find this simple American puttingsome real meaning into Christmas for these hundreds of wretched people. He also gave it a deeper meaning for the rest of us. 

 * * * * *

_Brussels, December 31, 1914_--Here is the end of the vile old year. Wecould see it out with rejoicing, if there were any prospect of 1915bringing us anything better. But it doesn't look very bright forBelgium. 

 THE CASE OF MISS EDITH CAVELL

_The extracts from this journal have been so voluminous as to precludebringing the record much farther than the end of 1914. In the main thestory of 1915-1916 is in the development of the Commission for Relief inBelgium and the new light shed each day upon German methods andmentality. It is a long story and could not be crowded between thecovers of this volume. There is, however, one outstanding event in1915--the case of Miss Edith Cavell--which is of such interest and soenlightening as to conditions in Belgium under German domination as towarrant its inclusion in this book. At the risk, therefore, of appearingdisconnected it has been decided to publish as a final chapter anarticle in regard to the case of Miss Cavell which has already appearedin the "World's Work. "_

On August 5, 1915, Miss Edith Cavell, an Englishwoman, directress of alarge nursing home at Brussels, was quietly arrested by the Germanauthorities and confined in the prison of St. Gilles on the charge thatshe had aided stragglers from the Allied armies to escape across thefrontier from Belgium to Holland, furnishing them with money, clothingand information concerning the route to be followed. It was some timebefore news of Miss Cavell's arrest was received by the AmericanLegation, which was entrusted with the protection of British interestsin the occupied portion of Belgium. When the Minister at Brusselsreceived a communication from the Ambassador at London transmitting anote from the Foreign Office stating that Miss Cavell was reported tohave been arrested and asking that steps be taken to render herassistance, Mr. Whitlock immediately addressed a note to the Germanauthorities asking whether there was any truth in the report of MissCavell's arrest and requesting authorisation for Maître Gaston de Leval, the legal counselor of the Legation, to consult with Miss Cavell and, ifdesirable, entrust some one with her defense. 

No reply was received to this communication, and on September 10th theLegation addressed a further note to Baron von der Lancken, Chief of thePolitical Department, calling his attention to the matter and askingthat he enable the Legation to take such steps as might be necessary forMiss Cavell's defense. 

On September 12th a reply was received from Baron von der Lancken inwhich it was stated that Miss Cavell had been arrested on August 5th andwas still in the military prison of St. Gilles. The note continued:

 She has herself admitted that she concealed in her house French and English soldiers, as well as Belgians of military age, all desirous of proceeding to the front. She has also admitted having furnished these soldiers with the money necessary for their journey to France, and having facilitated their departure from Belgium by providing them with guides, who enabled them to cross the Dutch frontier secretly. 

 Miss Cavell's defense is in the hands of the advocate Braun, who, I may add, is already in touch with the competent German authorities. 

 In view of the fact that the Department of the Governor-General, as a matter of principle, does not allow accused persons to have any interviews whatever, I much regret my inability to procure for M. De Leval permission to visit Miss Cavell as long as she is in solitary confinement. 

Under the provisions of international law the American Minister couldtake no action while the case was before the courts. It is an elementaryrule that the forms of a trial must be gone through without interferencefrom any source. If, when the sentence has been rendered, it appearsthat there has been a denial of justice, the case may be taken updiplomatically, with a view to securing real justice. Thus in the earlystages of the case the American Minister was helpless to interfere. Allthat he could do while the case was before the courts was to watch theprocedure carefully and be prepared with a full knowledge of the factsto see that a fair trial was granted. 

Maître de Leval communicated with Mr. Braun, who said that he had beenprevented from pleading before the court on behalf of Miss Cavell, buthad asked his friend and colleague, Mr. Kirschen, to take up the case. Maître de Leval then communicated with Mr. Kirschen, and learned fromhim that lawyers defending prisoners before German military courts werenot allowed to see their clients before the trial and were shown none ofthe documents of the prosecution. It was thus manifestly impossible toprepare any defense save in the presence of the court and during theprogress of the trial. Maître de Leval, who from the beginning to theend of the case showed a most serious and chivalrous concern for thewelfare of the accused, then told Mr. Kirschen that he would endeavourto be present at the trial in order to watch the case. Mr. Kirschendissuaded him from attending the trial on the ground that it would onlyserve to harm Miss Cavell rather than help her; that the judges wouldresent the presence of a representative of the American Legation. Although it seems unbelievable that any man of judicial mind wouldresent the presence of another bent solely on watching the course ofjustice, Mr. Kirschen's advice was confirmed by other Belgian lawyerswho had defended prisoners before the German military courts and spokewith the authority of experience. Mr. Kirschen promised, however, tokeep Maître de Leval fully posted as to all the developments of the caseand the facts brought out in the course of the trial. 

[Illustration: German proclamation announcing the execution of MissCavell

 PROCLAMATION

 Le Tribunal de Conseil de Guerre Impérial Allemand siègent à Bruxelles a prononcé les condamnations suivantes:

 Condamné à mort pour trahison en bande organisé:

 Edith CAVAELL, Institutrice à Bruxelles. Philippe BANCQ, Architecte à Bruxelles. Jeanne de BELLEVILLE, de Montignies. Louise THUILIEZ, Professeur à Lille. Louis SEVERIN, Pharmacien à Bruxelles. Albert LIBIEZ, Avocat à Mons. 

 Pour le même motif, ont été condamnés à quince ans de travaux forcés:

 Hermann CAPIAU, Ingénieur à Wasmes. --Ada BODART, à Bruxelles--Georges DERVEAU, Pharmacien à Paturages. --Mary de Croy, à Bellignies. 

 Dans la même séance, le Conseil de Guerre a prononcé contre dix-sept autres accusés de trahison envers les Armées Impériales, des comdamnations de travaux forcés et de prison variant entre deux ans et huit ans. 

 En ce qui concerne BANCQ et Edith CAVELL, le jugement a déjà reçu pleine exécution. 

 Le Général Gouverneur de Bruxelles porte ces faits à la connaissance de public pour qu'ils servent d'avertissement. 

Translation:

 The Imperial German Court Martial sitting at Brussels has pronounced the following sentence:

 Condemned to death for treason committed as an organized band:

 Edith Cavell, teacher, of Brussels. Philippe Bancq, Architect, of Brussels. Jeanne de Belleville, of Montignies. Louise Thuilier, Teacher, of Lille. Louis Severin, druggist, of Brussels. Albert Libiez, lawyer, of Mons. 

 For the same offense the following are condemned to fifteen years of hard labor:

 Hermann Capiau, engineer, of Wasmes--Ada Bodart, of Brussels--Georges Derveau, druggist, of Paturages--Mary de Croy, of Bellignies. 

 At the same session the Court Martial has pronounced sentences of hard labor and of imprisonment, varying from two to eight years, against seventeen others accused of treason against the Imperial Armies. 

 As regards Bancq and Edith Cavell, the sentence has already been fully carried out. 

 The Governor-General brings these facts to the attention of the public in order that they may serve as a warning. ]

The trial began on Thursday, October 7th, and ended the following day. 

On Sunday afternoon the Legation learned from persons who had beenpresent at the trial some of the facts. 

It seems that Miss Cavell was prosecuted for having helped English andFrench soldiers, as well as Belgian young men, to cross the frontierinto Holland in order that they might get over to England. She had madea signed statement admitting the truth of these charges and had furthermade public acknowledgment in court. She frankly admitted that not onlyhad she helped the soldiers to cross the frontier but that some of themhad written her from England thanking her for her assistance. This lastadmission made the case more serious for her because if it had beenproven only that she had helped men to cross the frontier into Holland, she could have been sentenced only for a violation of the passportregulations, and not for the "crime" of assisting soldiers to reach acountry at war with Germany. 

Miss Cavell was tried under Paragraph 58 of the German Military Code, which says:

 Any person who, with the intention of aiding the hostile Power or causing harm to German or allied troops, is guilty of one of the crimes of Paragraph 90 of the German Penal Code, will be sentenced to death for treason. 

The "crime" referred to by Paragraph 90 was that of "conducting soldiersto the enemy" (viz. : _dem Feinde Mannschaften zuführt_). 

It is manifest that this was a strained reading of the provisions ofmilitary law; that a false interpretation was wilfully put upon theseprovisions in order to secure a conviction. This law was obviouslyframed to cover the case of those who assist stragglers or lost soldiersto get back to their own lines and join their units. It is doubtfulwhether the framers of the military law had foreseen anything soindirect and unprecedented as that of helping soldiers cross into aneutral country in the hope that they might find their way back throughtwo other countries to their own army. Miss Cavell assisted thesesoldiers to escape into a neutral country which was bound, if possible, to apprehend and intern them. If these soldiers succeeded in outwittingthe Dutch authorities and making their way to England, their successwould not, to any fair-minded person, increase the offense committed byMiss Cavell. 

Miss Cavell's conduct before the court was marked by the greatestfrankness and courage. She stated that she had assisted these men toescape into Holland because she thought that if she had not done so theywould have been seized and shot by the Germans; that she felt that shehad only done her duty in helping to save their lives. 

The Military Prosecutor replied that while this argument might be madeconcerning English soldiers, it could not apply to Belgians, who werefree to remain in the country without danger. The subsequent behaviourof the German authorities to the Belgian young men who remained in thecountry does not lend any considerable weight to the remarks of thePublic Prosecutor. 

In concluding his plea, the Public Prosecutor asked that the court passthe sentence of death upon Miss Cavell and eight other prisoners amongthe thirty-five brought to trial. 

Upon ascertaining these facts Maître de Leval called at the PoliticalDepartment and asked that, the trial having taken place, permission begranted him to see Miss Cavell in person, as there could be no furtherobjection to consultation. Herr Conrad, an official of the PoliticalDepartment, who received Maître de Leval, stated that he would makeenquiry of the court and communicate with him later. 

The foregoing are the developments up to Sunday night, October 10th. Subsequent developments are shown by the following extracts from ajournal made at the time:

_Brussels, October 12, 1915_. --When I came in yesterday morning I foundinformation which seemed to confirm previous reports that Miss Cavell'strial had been concluded on Saturday afternoon and that the prosecutionhad asked that the death sentence be imposed. Monsieur de Leval promptlycalled the Political Department over the telephone and talked to Conrad, repeating our previous requests that he be authorised to see Miss Cavellin prison. He also asked that Mr. Gahan, the English chaplain, bepermitted to visit her. Conrad replied that it had been decided that Mr. Gahan could not see her, but that she could see any of the threeProtestant clergymen (Germans) attached to the prison; that de Levalcould not see her until the judgment was pronounced and signed. He saidthat as yet no sentence had been pronounced and that there wouldprobably be a delay of a day or two before a decision was reached. Hestated that even if the judgment of the court had been given, it wouldhave no effect until it had been confirmed by the Governor, who wasabsent from Brussels and would not return for two or possibly threedays. We asked Conrad to inform the Legation immediately upon theconfirmation of the sentence in order that steps might be taken tosecure a pardon if the judgment really proved to be one of capitalpunishment. Conrad said he had no information to the effect that thecourt had acceded to the request for the death sentence, but promised tokeep us informed. I stood by the telephone and could overhear both deLeval and Conrad. 

Despite the promise of the German authorities to keep us fully posted, we were nervous and apprehensive and remained at the Legation all day, making repeated enquiry by telephone to learn whether a decision hadbeen reached. On each of these occasions the Political Departmentrenewed the assurance that we would be informed as soon as there was anynews. In order to be prepared for every eventuality, we drew up apetition for clemency addressed to the Governor-General, and a coveringnote addressed to Baron von der Lancken, in order that they might bepresented without loss of time in case of urgent need. 

A number of people had been arrested and tried for helping men to crossinto Holland, but, so far as we know, the death sentence had never beeninflicted. The usual thing was to give a sentence of imprisonment inGermany. The officials at the Political Department professed to beskeptical as to the reported intention of the court to inflict the deathsentence, and led us to think that nothing of the sort need beapprehended. 

None the less we were haunted by a feeling of impending horror that wecould not shake off. I had planned to ride in the afternoon, but when myhorse was brought around, I had it sent away and stayed near thetelephone. Late in the afternoon de Leval succeeded in getting intocommunication with a lawyer interested in one of the accused. He saidthat the German Kommandantur had informed him that judgment would bepassed the next morning, Tuesday. He was worried as to what was in storefor the prisoners and said he feared the court would be very severe. 

At 6. 20 I had Topping (clerk of the Legation) telephone Conrad again. Once more we had the most definite assurances that nothing had happenedand a somewhat weary renewal of the promise that we should haveimmediate information when sentence was pronounced. [11]

[Footnote 11: This was just one hour and twenty minutes after thesentence had actually been pronounced. There is no need for comment. ]

At 8. 30 I had just gone home when de Leval came for me in my car, sayingthat he had come to report that Miss Cavell was to be shot during thenight. We could hardly credit this, but as our informant was so positiveand insisted so earnestly, we set off to see what could be done. 

De Leval had seen the Minister, who was ill in bed, and brought me hisinstructions to find von der Lancken, present the appeal for clemency, and press for a favourable decision. In order to add weight to ourrepresentations, I was to seek out the Spanish Minister to get him to gowith us and join in our appeal. I found him dining at Baron Lambert's, and on explaining the case to him he willingly agreed to come. 

When we got to the Political Department we found that Baron von derLancken and all the members of his staff had gone out to spend theevening at one of the disreputable little theatres that have sprung uphere for the entertainment of the Germans. At first we were unable tofind where he had gone, as the orderly on duty evidently had orders notto tell, but by dint of some blustering and impressing on him the factthat Lancken would have cause to regret not having seen us, he agreed tohave him notified. We put the orderly into the motor and sent him off. The Marquis de Villalobar, de Leval, and I settled down to wait, and wewaited long, for Lancken, evidently knowing the purpose of our visit, declined to budge until the end of an act that seemed to appeal to himparticularly. 

He came in about 10. 30, followed shortly by Count Harrach and Baron vonFalkenhausen, members of his staff. I briefly explained to him thesituation as we understood it and presented the note from the Minister, transmitting the appeal for clemency. Lancken read the note aloud in ourpresence, showing no feeling aside from cynical annoyance atsomething--probably our having discovered the intentions of the Germanauthorities. 

When he had finished reading the note, Lancken said that he knew nothingof the case, but was sure in any event that no sentence would beexecuted so soon as we had said. He manifested some surprise, not to sayannoyance, that we should give credence to any report in regard to thecase which did not come from his Department, that being the onlyofficial channel. Leval and I insisted, however, that we had reason tobelieve our reports were correct and urged him to make inquiries. Hethen tried to find out the exact source of our information, and becamepainfully insistent. I did not propose, however, to enlighten him onthis point and said that I did not feel at liberty to divulge our sourceof information. 

Lancken then became persuasive--said that it was most improbable thatany sentence had been pronounced; that even if it had, it could not beput into effect within so short a time, and that in any event allGovernment offices were closed and that it was impossible for him totake any action before morning. He suggested that we all go home"reasonably, " sleep quietly, and come back in the morning to talk aboutthe case. It was very clear that if the facts were as we believed themto be, the next morning would be too late, and we pressed for immediateenquiry. I had to be rather insistent on this point, and de Leval, inhis anxiety, became so emphatic that I feared he might bring down thewrath of the Germans on his own head, and tried to quiet him. There wassomething splendid about the way de Leval, a Belgian with nothing togain and everything to lose, stood up for what he believed to be rightand chivalrous, regardless of consequences to himself. 

Finally, Lancken agreed to enquire as to the facts, telephoned from hisoffice to the presiding judge of the court martial, and returned in ashort time to say that sentence had indeed been passed and that MissCavell was to be shot during the night. 

We then presented with all the earnestness at our command, the plea forclemency. We pointed out to Lancken that Miss Cavell's offenses were amatter of the past; that she had been in prison for some weeks, thuseffectually ending her power for harm; that there was nothing to begained by shooting her, and on the contrary this would do Germany muchmore harm than good and England much more good than harm. We pointed outto him that the whole case was a very bad one from Germany's point ofview; that the sentence of death had heretofore been imposed only forcases of espionage and that Miss Cavell was not even accused by theGerman authorities of anything so serious. [12] We reminded him that MissCavell, as directress of a large nursing home, had, since the beginningof the war, cared for large numbers of German soldiers in a way thatshould make her life sacred to them. I further called his attention tothe manifest failure of the Political Department to comply with itsrepeated promises to keep us informed as to the progress of the trialand the passing of the sentence. The deliberate policy of subterfuge andprevarication by which they had sought to deceive us, as to the progressof the case, was so raw as to require little comment. We all pointed outto Lancken the horror of shooting a woman, no matter what her offense, and endeavoured to impress upon him the frightful effect that such anexecution would have throughout the civilised world. With anill-concealed sneer he replied that on the contrary he was confidentthat the effect would be excellent. 

[Footnote 12: At the time there was no intimation that Miss Cavell wasguilty of espionage. It was only when public opinion had been aroused byher execution that the German Government began to refer to her as "thespy Cavell. " According to the German statement of the case, there is nopossible ground for calling her a spy. ]

[Illustration: Miss Edith Cavell]

[Illustration: Fly-leaf of Miss Cavell's prayer book]

When everything else had failed, we asked Lancken to look at the casefrom the point of view solely of German interests, assuring him that theexecution of Miss Cavell would do Germany infinite harm. We reminded himof the burning of Louvain and the sinking of the _Lusitania_, and toldhim that this murder would rank with those two affairs and would stirall civilised countries with horror and disgust. Count Harrach broke inat this with the rather irrelevant remark that he would rather see MissCavell shot than have harm come to the humblest German soldier, and hisonly regret was that they had not "three or four old English women toshoot. "

The Spanish Minister and I tried to prevail upon Lancken to call GreatHeadquarters at Charleville on the telephone and have the case laidbefore the Emperor for his decision. Lancken stiffened perceptibly atthis suggestion and refused, frankly, saying that he could not doanything of the sort. Turning to Villalobar, he said, "I can't do thatsort of thing. I am not a friend of my Sovereign as you are of yours, "to which a rejoinder was made that in order to be a good friend, onemust be loyal and ready to incur displeasure in case of need. However, our arguments along this line came to nothing, but Lancken finally cameto the point of saying that the Military Governor of Brussels was thesupreme authority (_Gerichtsherr_) in matters of this sort and that eventhe Governor-General had no power to intervene. After further argumenthe agreed to get General von Sauberschweig, the Military Governor, outof bed to learn whether he had already ratified the sentence and whetherthere was any chance for clemency. 

Lancken was gone about half an hour, during which time the three of uslaboured with Harrach and Falkenhausen, without, I am sorry to say, theslightest success. When Lancken returned he reported that the MilitaryGovernor said that he had acted in this case only after maturedeliberation; that the circumstances of Miss Cavell's offense were ofsuch character that he considered infliction of the death penaltyimperative. Lancken further explained that under the provisions ofGerman Military Law, the _Gerichtsherr_ had discretionary power toaccept or to refuse to accept an appeal for clemency; that in this casethe Governor regretted that he must decline to accept the appeal forclemency or any representations in regard to the matter. 

We then brought up again the question of having the Emperor called onthe telephone, but Lancken replied very definitely that the matter hadgone too far; that the sentence had been ratified by the MilitaryGovernor, and that when matters had gone that far, "even the Emperorhimself could not intervene. "[13]

[Footnote 13: Although accepted at the time as true, this statement waslater found to be entirely false and is understood to have displeasedthe Emperor. The Emperor could have stopped the execution at anymoment. ]

He then asked me to take back the note I had presented to him. I atfirst demurred, pointing out that this was not an appeal for clemency, but merely a note to him, transmitting a note to the Governor, which wasitself to be considered the appeal for clemency. I pointed out that thiswas especially stated in the Minister's note to him, and tried toprevail upon him to keep it. He was very insistent, however, andinasmuch as he had already read the note aloud to us and we knew that hewas aware of its contents, it seemed that there was nothing to be gainedby refusing to accept the note, and I accordingly took it back. 

Despite Lancken's very positive statements as to the futility of ourerrand, we continued to appeal to every sentiment to secure delay andtime for reconsideration of the case. The Spanish Minister led Lanckenaside and said some things to him that he would have hesitated to say inthe presence of Harrach, Falkenhausen, and de Leval, a Belgian subject. Lancken squirmed and blustered by turns, but stuck to his refusal. Inthe meantime I went after Harrach and Falkenhausen again. This time, throwing modesty to the winds, I reminded them of some of the things wehad done for German interests at the outbreak of the war; how we hadrepatriated thousands of German subjects and cared for their interests;how during the siege of Antwerp I had repeatedly crossed the linesduring actual fighting at the request of Field Marshal von der Goltz tolook after German interests; how all this service had been renderedgladly and without thought of reward; that since the beginning of thewar we had never asked a favour of the German authorities and it seemedincredible that they should now decline to grant us even a day's delayto discuss the case of a poor woman who was, by her imprisonment, prevented from doing further harm, and whose execution in the middle ofthe night, at the conclusion of a course of trickery and deception, wasnothing short of an affront to civilisation. Even when I was ready toabandon all hope, de Leval was unable to believe that the Germanauthorities would persist in their decision, and appealed mosttouchingly and feelingly to the sense of pity for which we looked invain. 

Our efforts were perfectly useless, however, as the three men with whomwe had to deal were so completely callous and indifferent that they werein no way moved by anything that we could say. 

[Illustration: Two illustrations titled "Notes in Miss Cavell's prayerbook"]

We did not stop until after midnight, when it was only too clear thatthere was no hope. 

It was a bitter business leaving the place feeling that we had failedand that the little woman was to be led out before a firing squad withina few hours. But it was worse to go back to the Legation to the littlegroup of English women who were waiting in my office to learn the resultof our visit. They had been there for nearly four hours while Mrs. Whitlock and Miss Lamer sat with them and tried to sustain them throughthe hours of waiting. There were Mrs. Gahan, wife of the Englishchaplain, Miss B. , and several nurses from Miss Cavell's school. One wasa little wisp of a thing who had been mothered by Miss Cavell, and wasnearly beside herself with grief. There was no way of breaking the newsto them gently, for they could read the answer in our faces when we camein. All we could do was to give them each a stiff drink of sherry andsend them home. De Leval was white as death, and I took him back to hishouse. I had a splitting headache myself and could not face the idea ofgoing to bed. I went home and read for awhile, but that was no good, soI went out and walked the streets, much to the annoyance of Germanpatrols. I rang the bells of several houses in a desperate desire totalk to somebody, but could not find a soul--only sleepy and disgruntledservants. It was a night I should not like to go through again, but itwore through somehow and I braced up with a cold bath and went to theLegation for the day's work. 

The day brought forth another loathsome fact in connection with thecase. It seems the sentence on Miss Cavell was not pronounced in opencourt. Her executioners, apparently in the hope of concealing theirintentions from us, went into her cell and there, behind locked doors, pronounced sentence upon her. It is all of a piece with the other thingsthey have done. 

Last night Mr. Gahan got a pass and was admitted to see Miss Cavellshortly before she was taken out and shot. He said she was calm andprepared and faced the ordeal without a tremor. She was a tiny thingthat looked as though she could be blown away with a breath, but she hada great spirit. She told Mr. Gahan that soldiers had come to her andasked to be helped to the frontier; that knowing the risks they ran andthe risks she took, she had helped them. She said she had nothing toregret, no complaint to make, and that if she had it all to do overagain, she would change nothing. And most pathetic of all was herstatement that she thanked God for the six weeks she had passed inprison--the nearest approach to rest she had known for years. 

They partook together of the Holy Communion, and she who had so littleneed of preparation was prepared for death. She was free from resentmentand said: "I realise that patriotism is not enough. I must have nohatred or bitterness toward any one. "

She was taken out and shot before daybreak. 

She was denied the support of her own clergyman at the end, but a Germanmilitary chaplain stayed with her and gave her burial within theprecincts of the prison. He did not conceal his admiration and said:"She was courageous to the end. She professed her Christian faith andsaid that she was glad to die for her country. She died like a heroine. "

Transcriber's Notes: There are no periods/full stops used forillustration captions, with 5 exceptions: usually the longer ones. 

Following is a list of inconsistently used hyphenated words. They areleft as they were in the book. 

 battlefield battle-field businesslike business-like downtown down-town farmhouse farm-house goodwill good-will motorcycle motor-cycle nearby near-by